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BOSS ROBEKTSON, 55 KING^TRBKT WXST, ■ovn^wisr tKoamt ov »Ax-gaMmt, 1880. m fy ,1. 'J, ..A I , I •"''*«i"i« rr'*!^. *l , 'i. i . rrrv,--;!-;;,: I.e. >*>■ A TRAMP ABROAD. Om day i«oo«uMd to Bw fhrt ilM ItMB my yMM dnf th* worid had ba«i pAotd* «d «• apaotaola (tf a man adTMtaroaa anoa|^ to «|idHtil|a a Joaniay tbrdach B«mm m fboi After iBMh thoiudit, | dwiidad Oall «aa a ptnon fitted to fonilgk to manWad tkii ipMtaoIa. So I dotMialiiadto do Ik. tUa iraa in HaMh, 187& I lookad about om for Am tight lort pi prtion to aooompaay mo in tho oavadty of aftnt, aad flnaliy hind Mr. Anbiforthia ■arrioe. It wai alao my Murpoaa to atndy art wUlo inSorqpe. Mr. uama waa ia aympathy w}th ma in thia. Ho waa aa mnoh (rf an an« thUiiaat in art aa I wai^ and no leaa anziona to loam to paint. I dottfod to loan tha QMtnan lanaiuiga ; lo did Harris. Toward no middle of April we lailod in tha Holiatia, Oapt, Brandt, and had a rmtj pkaiant trip indeed. After a briof reat at HamfHUf,wo made pteparationa for a long podaotrian trip loath- wara in the loft apring weather, hat at the laat moment weohaaged the program, for l^vatrreaaons, and took tha expreia trntin. We made a short halt at Frankiort'On-the* Main, and fonnd it an intereatiug oity. I woold haye liked to Tiait the birkh-plane of ChBttenben^ bat it ooold not he done, aa no nemorandnra of the alte of the hodae has been kept. Sowoapeaianhoor inthoQoe* ^ mansion instead. The eity permita thia hoaseto belong to miTate purfciea, instead of graoiog and dignifying herself with the honor of possessing and proteeting it. Friuikfort Is clie tll«frr.i^- ▲ TRAMP ABROAD. g«ndi of the Rhine frcim Bwle to Rotterdam, )*y F. J. Kiefer; Trauslated by L. W. Oambkin, B.A.' All toorieta mention the Rhine legends, — in th«t sort of w»y which quietly pretends thst the mentioner hns been familisr with the^ all his life, and that the reader oannot possibly be ignomtdf thrm,— bat no tonrist ever tells them. 9o ^i> little book fed me iu a rery hnnsry plaoe ; and I, in my tarn, intend to feed my reader, with one or two little Innohes from the same larder. I shall not mar Oarnham's translation by meddling with its English ; for the most toothsome thins aboat it in its qnaint fashion ot build* ing English Mntenoea on the Oerroan plan,— and punotaating them aooording to no flan In the ohapter devoted to ' Legends of Frankfort,' I And the following : 'THX KVATB OV BBBQ^.' ' In Frankfort at the Romar was a great mask-ball, at the coronation festival, and bet tiie illaminated saloon, the clanging mnsio invited to danoe, and splendidly appeared the rich toilets and charms of the ladies, and the festively oostamed Princes and Knights. All seemed pleanare, joy, and rognish gay. ety, only one of the nnmerons gneats had a gloomjr exterior; bat exactly the blank ar- mour iu which he walked about excited general attention, and his tall figure, as well as the noble propriety of his movements, attracted especially the regards of the ladies. Who the Knight was f Nobody could guess, for his Vicier was well closed, and nothing made him recognizable. Proud and yet modest he advanced to the Empress ; bowed on one knee before her seat, and begged for the favour of a waltz with the Queen dt the festival And she allowed his request. With light and graceful steps he danced through the long saloon, with the sovereign rho thought never to have found a more dexterous and excellent dancer. But also by fhe grace of his manner, and fine conversation lie knew to win the Queen, and she graci* ously accorded him a second dance for which he be^ed, • third, and a fourth, as well as others were not refused him. How all re- E^rded the happy dancer, how many envied mthe hiih favour} how increased curiosity, who the masked knight could be. Also the Emperor became more and more •zoited with curiosity, and with great sus- pense one awaited the hour, when according to mask-law, each masked guest must make liimself known. This moment came, but although all others had unmasked; the Mor«t knight itill refused to allow hit fea- tures to be seen, till at last the Quenn driven by curiosity, and vexeH at the utmiiuMte re- fusal ; commanded him to open Ium Vizier. He opened it, and none of the high ladies and knights knew him. But irom the crowded spectators, 2 oflSuials advanced, who recognized the black dancer, and horror and terror spread in the saloon, as they said who the aupposed knight was. It was the executioner of Bergen. But glowing with rage, the King commanded to seize the crim- inal and lead him to death, who had ventured to dance with the queen ; so disgraced the Empress, and insulted the crown. The cul- pable threw himself at the feet of the Emperor and said t " Indeed I have heavily sinned against all noble guests assembled here, but most heavily uainat you m^ aovereign and my queen. The Queen is insulted by my Iiaaghtiness equal to treason, but no punishment even blood, will not be able to wash out the dis- grace which you have suffered by me. Therefore oh King 1 allow me to propose a remedy, to efface the shame, and to render it as if not done. Draw your sword and knight me, then I will throw down m^ gauntlet to every one who dares to speak durespeotfuUy of my king." The Emperor was surprised at this bold Sroposai, however it appeared the wisest to im. " You are a knave," he replied after a mo- ment's consideration, " however your advice is good, and displays prudence, as your offense shows adventurous courage. Well then," and gave him the knisht stroke, " so I raise you to nobility, who begijed for grace for your offence now kneels before me, rise as a knight ; knavish you have acted, and Knave of Bergen shall you be called hence- forth, "and gladly the black knisht rose; three cheers were given in honour of the Emjperor, and loud cries of joy testiHed the approbation with which the Queen danced still once with the Knave of Bergen.', '^ifi--i-^^}i,ii.i. OHAPTER IL HmOBLBKBO. ^ We stopped at a hotel by the railway sta- tion. Next morning, as we sat in my room waiting for breakfast to come up, we got a good deal interested in something which was foing on over the way in front of another hdteL 'irs^ the personage who is called the portier (who is not the porter, but is a sort of first- mate of a hotel),* appeared at the door in a spick and span new blue cloth uniform, de- corated with shining brass buttons, and with 'SeeApp.'X "" ~^' ~ •C~ ,i!i;BifH««ife. A TRAMP ABROAD. i / r^ r ^1^-^ bands of gold Imo «round hia oap and wriat banda { and ho wore white sloves, too. He ■hed an official glance upon the eitnation and then began to Rive orders. Two women eer* ▼ante oame oat with paili and broome and bmahea, and gkve the sidewalk a thorough ■ombbing ; meanwhile two others sombbed the four marble steps which led np to thedoor; beyond theie we conld see some men-servants taking np the carpet of the grand staircase. This oarpet was carried away and the last grain of dust beaten and banf ins patter of the rain against the bucony windows. I took it to be rain, but it turned out to be only the mur- mur of the reckless Neokar tumbling over her dikes and dams far below, in the gorge. I got up and went to the west balcony and saw a wonderful siKht. Away down on the level, under the blkck mass of the Caatle, the town lay, atretohed along the river, it's intricate cobweb of atreets jeweled with twinkling lig^hta ; there were rows of lights on the bridges ; these flung lances of bght npon the watisr, in the black sbadowa of the arches ; and away at tho extremity of all this fairy sseotaole blinked and §iowad a masaed multitude of gaa Jets whioh seemed to cover aorea of ground ; it waa aa if all tho diaroonda in the world had bean apread ont there. I did not know before^ that a half mile of sextuple railway traoka ooald be made such an adornment One thinks Heidelberg by da^— with ili surroundings — is the laas poaeibilitv of tiie beautiful ; but when he seee Heidelbeig by night, a fallen milky way, with that glitter* ing railway oonatelfation pinned to the bo^ dor, he requireo time to consider upon tho verdict One never tireo of poking about in tho dense woods that olotho all theee lofty Neokar hilla to their tope. The great deepo of a boondleaa foreat have a beguiling and imprea- sive charm in any country ; nut German legenda and fairy talea have given theee an aoded oharm They have peopled all that region with^jnomea, and dwarfa, and all aorta of mysterious and uncanny creatures. At the time I am writing of, I had been reading ao mnoh of thia literature that aometimea 1 was not sure but I waa beginning to believe in tho gnomea and fairies aa realities. One afternoon I got lost in the woods about a mile from the hotel, and presently fell into a train of dreamy thought about animala which talk, and kobolcU, and enchanted folk, and the reet of the pleasant legendary •tuff; and ao, by' stimulatinfE my fanoy, I finally got to imagining I glimpeed small flitting shapea here and there down tho columned usles of the forest It waa » place which waa peculiarly meet for the ooca* sion. It waa a pmewood, with ao thick and auft a carpet of brown needles that one'a footfall made no more sound than if he was treading on wool ; the tree-trunka were a* round and straight and smooth aa. pillars, and atood close together, they were bare of brauchee to a point about twenty-five foot above ground, and from there upward ao thick with boughs that not a ray of sun* li(^ht could pierce through. The world waa bright with sunshine outside, but a deep and mellow twilight reigned in there, and alao a silence so profound that I seemed to hear my own breathinga. When I had atood ten minutes, thinking and imagining, and getting my spirit in tune with the place, and in the rijjht mood to en* joy the supernatural, a raven suddenly ut- tered a hoarse croak over my head. It made me atart ; and then 1 was angry because I started. I looked up, and the creature waa sitting on a limb right over me, looking down at me. I felt something of the same senso of humiliation and injury which ouo feels when he finds that a human stranger haa been clandestinely inspecting him in hi* fit ,iiT;ij^fcfltfflSiSi> .*¥' •<%;> X'KVA TRAMP ABROAD. priTMT Mid nantolljr ooaim«itiaf| «pon Um. I eyed Iha ravMi, and tb« r* 'mi •ir«d m*. Nothiag WM taid dorinc soiik'i loood*. Than tli« bird sttpped a Ul«l« way aluofi hia limb to g«ft A batter point of oManratioa, liftad bia wifiRa, ataek bia baad far down balow bia abonldara, toward ma, and oroakad again— a oroak with a diatinotly inaaltiag axp r aaa i on aboat it. If ha had apokan in SngUah ha oonld not hava aaid any mora plainly than ha did aay in raran, * Wall, what do want haraf I fait aa fooliah aa if I had baan oaoght in aoma maan auk by m roaponaibla baing, and raprovad for it. HowoTar, I mada no raply ; I woold not bandy worda with a ra^an. Tha advaraary waitad a whila, with hia ahoQldera atiU liftad, hia haad thraat down batwaan tham, and hia kaan bright aya fixed on ma ; than ha thraw one two or thraa mora inanlta, which I ooold not undar' atand, farther than that I knaw a portion of tham oonaiatad of langnaga not aaad in dharob. I atill mada no raply. Now tha advaraary raiaad hia haad and oallad. Thara waa an an< awaring oroak from a littla diataooa in tha wood,— aridantly a oroak of inquiry. The •dyaraary explained with anthuaiaam, Mtd tha other raren dropped arerything and oama. Tha two aat aide by aide on the limb and diaonaied me aa freely and offensively^ aa twograat aaturaliatamightdisooasa new kind of bug. The thing became more aod more embamaaing. They called in another friend. Thia waa too much. I aaw that they had the advantage of ma, and ao I conolnded to get ont of the acrape by walking ont of it Tiiey enjoyed my defeat aa maoh aa any low white people could have done. They craned thair neoka and laughed at me, ( for a raven oan iMigh, juat like a man,) they equalled inault* ing ramarka after ma aa long aa they could aea me. They were nothing but ravena— I knew that, — whatfhey thought about me ouvld be a matter of no oonaequMioa,— and yat when even » raven ahouta after you, * What a hat 1' ' O, pull down your «eat I' and that aort of thing, it hnrta you and humiliatea ^ou, and there is no getting around it with fina reasoning and pretty argumenta. Animals talk to each ctJiar, of aourse. There oan be no question about that ; but I aappoae there are very few people who oan nndaratand them. I never knew but one man who oould. I knaw he could, however, because ha told ma so himself. He was a middle-aged, simple-hearted miner who had lived in a lanaly eorner of California, among the woods and mountaina, a good many years, and had atndied the waya of hia only meighboara, tha baasta and tha birds, Thia until ha believed ha could aoourataly alata any remark which thay made. was Jim Bakar. Aocurdiog to Jim aoma animala have only a limited adnoation^ and oaa only vary aimpla worda, and soaro»> ^ ly ever a eompa n aon or a flowery flgura } wher^aa, certain other animala have a large vocabulary, a Ana command of language and a ready and fluent delivery { oonaaquently theaa latter talk a great deal ; thay Uka it ; they are oonacious of their talent, and thay enjoy 'showing ofll' Baker said, that after long and carefnl obaarvation, ha had ooma to the oondusioa that tha blue* j aya ware tha beat talkers he had found among birds and beaata. itaid ha : — * There's more to a blue-jay than any other creature. He has got more moods, and more different kinds of feelings than uther oreaturea ; and mind you, whatever a blue-jay feels, he can put intw language. And no mere common-plaee language, either, but rattling, out-and-out book talk — and brist- ling with metaphor, to -just bristling ! And aa for command of langaaga — why yon never aee a blue-jay sat stuck for a word. No man ever did. Toey jutt boil out of him 1 And another thing ; I've noticed a good deal, and there's no bird, or cow, or anything that uses as good grammar aa a blue-jay. Yon may say a oat uses good gnm- mar. Well, a oat does — but you let a cat f(et excited, once : yon let a oat get to puUing fur with another oat on a shed, nights, and you'll hear grammar that wUl give you tha lockjaw. Ignorant people think it's th« noise which fighting oats make that ia ao ag- gravating, but it ain't so ; it's the sickening grammar they use Now I've never heard a jay use bad grammar but very seldom ; and when they do, they are aa ashamed aa a hv< man ; they abut right down and leave.' * You may call a jay a bird. Well, so he is, in a measure — because he's got feathera on bim, and don't belong to no ehnreh, ner- hapa ; but otherwise he is just aa much nn. man aa yon be. And I'll toll yon for why. A jay's gifts, and inatinota, and feelings, and interests cover the whole ground. A jay hasn't got any more principle than a Con* gresaman. A jay will lie, a jay will ateal, a jay will deceive, a jay will batrav ; and four timea out of five a jay will go back on its aolemnest promise. The aacradneaa of aa obligation is a thing which yon can't oraa into no blue-jay'a head. Now on top of all this there's another thing ; a jay «aa ant> swear any gentleman in tha minaa. Yon think a cat oan swear. Well, a eat oan ; but you giro a blue-jay a aubjeot that ealla for hia rMui v« i>owers, and where is your oat t Dan't talk to ma — I know too much I »»»*"'= m jsii^^J^i* /!A A TRAMP ABROAD. ? I 1 1 Hi n about this thing. And there's yet another thing : in the one little partioulsr of sooldin^ — jOBt good, olean, oat andoat scoiding — a I tine- jay can lay over any thing, human or divine. Yea, air, a jay is eveiything that a loan is. A jay can cry, a jay can laugh, a jay can feel Bhame,a jay can reason and plan iiad disonss, a jay likes gossip and scandal, a yjkj has got a sense of humonr, a jay knows when he is an ass jast as well as yon do— may be better. If a jay ain't hnman, he better take in his sign, that's all. Now I'm going to tell yon a perfectly true fact about some blne-jays.' CHAPTER III. *^ ;' "; ■?- v.,//' BAKEB'S BLUE JAT TABK. ' When I first began to understand jay }.ingnage correctly, there was a little iacident happened here. Seven years ago the last i^an in this region but me moved away. There stands his house — been empty ever eince ; a log house with a plank roof — ^jubt one big room, and no more ; no ceiling — no- thing between the rafters and the' floor. Well, one Sunday morning I was Bittine out here in front of my cabin with my oat, tiding the sun and looking at the blue hUls, and listening to the leaves mstling ro lonely in the trees, and thinking of home away yonder in the Stave? that I hadn't beard from in thirteen years, when a blue j«.y lit on that house, with an acorn in his mouth, and says, " Uello, I reckon I've struck something.'* Whi?n he spoke, the acorn dropped out of his mouth and rolled down the roof, of course, but he didn't care ; his mouth was all on the thing he had struck. It was a knot-hole in the roof. He cocked his head to one side, shut one eye and put the other one to the hole, like a possum looking down a jag ; then he glanced up with his bright eyes, gave a wink or two with bis wings -which signities gratification, you understand — and says, "It looks like a hole, it's located like a hole ~ blamed if I don't believe it is a hole ! " ' Then be cocked his head down and took anoli^er look ; he glances up perfectly joyful, this time ; winks his wings and his tail both, and says, ' 0, no, this ain't no fat thing I reckon I If I ain't in luck I— why it's a perfectly elegant hole ! ' So he fiew down and got that acorn, and fetched it up and dropped it in, and was just tilting his head back, with the heavenliest smile on his face, when all of a sudden he was paralyzed into a listening attitude and that smile faded gradually out of his countenance like breath •fTn a razor, and the queerest look of sur- prise took its place. Then be says, ' Why I didn't hear it faU I ' He cooked his eye at the hole again, and took a long look ; raised up and shook his head ; stepped around to the other side of the hole and took another look from that side ; shook his head again. He studied a while, then he just went into the details, walked round and round the hole and spied into it from every point of the oompass. No use. Now he took a thinking attitude on the oomb of the roof and scratched the back of bis head with his risht foot a minute, and finally says, 'Well, it^ too many for me, that's certain ; must be a mighty long hole ; however, I ain't got no time to fool around here, I got to 'tend to business ; I reckon it's all ri^t— chance it, anyway.' ' So he flew off and fetched another aoorr and dropped it in, and tried to flirt his eye to the hole quick enough to see what become of it, but he was too late. He held his eye there as much as a minnte ; then he raised up and sighed, and says, ' Confound it, I don't seem to understand this thing, no way ; howevec, I'll tackle her again.' He fetched another acorn, and done his level best to see what become of it, but he couldn't. He says, J Well, I never struck no such a hole as this before ; I'm of the opinion it's a to- tally new kind of a hole.' Then he be|(nn to get mad. He held in for a spell, walking up and down the comb of the roof and shaking his head and muttering to himself ; but his feelings got the upper hand of him presently, acd he broke loose and cussed himself black in the face. I never see a bird take on so about a little thing. When he got through he walks to the hole and looks in again for half a minnte ; then he says, ' Well, you're a long hole, and a deep hole, and a mighty sinotulsr hole altogether— but I've startMl in to fill you, and I'm d— d if I don't fill you, if it takes a hundred years ! ' 'And with that, away he went. You never see a bird work bo since yon was boru. He laid into his work like a nigger, and the way he hove acorns into that hole for about two hours and a half was one of the most ex- citing and astonishing spectacles I ever struck. He never stopped to take a look any more— he just hove 'em in and went for more. Well at last he could hardly flop hiti wings, he was so tuckered out. He comes a-drooping down, once more, sweating Uke an ice-pitcher, drops his acorn in and sa/( ' Now I gueas I've got the bulge on you by this time ! ' So he bent down for a look. If you'll believe me, when his head come up again he was just pale with rage. He says, 'I've shoveled acorns enough in there to keep the family thirty years, and if I can see a sign of one of 'em I wish I may land in a ii^(# jii^S+WWWft. H'-n^i^W^m^- i A TRAMP ABROAD. mnaeaiD with • belly fall of Mwdait in two minatM ! ' * He juat had atreneth enongh to orawl up on to tlie oomb »ad lean his baok agin the «himbly, and then he coUeoted hta imprei* ■ione and begun to free his mind. I see in a Moond that what I had mistook for pro- fanity in the mines was only just the rudi- ments, as you may My. _ ' Another jay wsut going by, and heard him doing his devotions, and stopa to inquire what was up. The sufferer told him the whole ciroumbtance, and says, ' Now yonder's the hole, and if you don't believe me, go and look for yourself.' So this fellow went and looked, and oomes baok and says, ' flow many did you say you put in there ?' ' Not any less than two tons,' says the suff- erer. The other jay went and looked again. He couldn't seem to make it out, so be raised a yell, and three more jays come. They all examined the hole, they all made the sufferer tell it over again, then they all discussed it, and got off as many leather- headed opinions about it as an average crowd of humans could have done. * They called in more jays ; then more and more, till pretty soon this whole region 'peared to have a blue flash about it. There must have been Ave thousand of them ; and such another jawing and dispntingand ripping and cussing, yoa never heard. Every jay in the whole lot pub his eye to the hole and deliver- ed a more uhuckle-headed opinion about the mystery than the jay that went there before him. They examined the house all over, too. The door was standing half open, aud at last one old jay h^ippened to go and light on it and look in. Of course that knocked the mystery galley-west in a second. There lay the acorns, scattered all over the floor. He flopped his wings and raised a whoop. 'Come- here!' he says, * ('ome here, every- body ; hang'd if this fool hasn't been trying to fill up a house with aooms 1' They all oame a-swooping down like a blue cloud, aud as each fellow lit on the door and took a glance, the whole absurdity of the contract that that first jay had tackled, fait him home aud he fell over backwards suffocating with laughter, and the next jay took his place and done the same. ' Well, sir, they roosted around here on the house-top and the trees for an hour, and ffuffawdd over that thing like human bKinga. It ain't any use to tell me a blue-jay hasn't got a sense of humor, because I know better. And memory, too. They brought jays here from all over the United States to look down that hole, every summer for three years. Other birds too. And they could all see the point, except an owl that oome from Nova Suotia to visit the Yo Semite, and he took this tbiug in on his way baok. He said he couldn't see anything funny in it. But then he was a good deal dikappointed about Yo Semite, tou.' .'lid CHAPTER IV. STUi>SNT LIFE. ft- •J . ,«! The summer semesrer was in full tide , consequently the moBt frequent flgure in and about Heidelberg was the student. Most of the students were Germans, of course, but the representatives «>f foreign lands were very numerous. They hailed from every corner of the globe, — for instruction is cheap in Heidelberg, aud so is living, too. The Ajiglo- American Club, ct>mpoBed of British and American students, had twenty-five membera, and there was still much material left to draw from. Nine-tenths of the Heidelberg stulents wore no badge or uniform ; the otht r tenth wore caps of various colours, and belonged to social organizations called 'corps.' There were five corps, each with a colour of its own ; there were white caps, blue caps, and red, yellow, and green oues. The famous duel-fighting is uontiued to the ' corps ' boys. The ' kneip seems to be a specialty of theirs, too. Kneips are held, now ami then, to celebrate great occasions, — like the election of a beer king, for instance. The solemnity is simple ; the five corps assomble at night, and at a signal they all fall loading them- selves with beer, out of piut-muga, as fast as possible, and each man iceeps his own count, — usually by laying aside a lucifer match for each mug he empties. The election is soon decided. When the candidates can hold no more, a count is instituted aud the one who has drank the greatest nu.naber of pints is proclaimed king. I was told that the last beer king elected by the corps— or by his own capabilities—emptied his mug sevt^ty five times. No stomach could hold all that quantity at one time, of course — but there are ways of frequently creating a vacuum, which those who have been much at sea will understand. One sees so many stui'icnts abroad at all hours, that he presently begins to wonder if they ever have any working hours. Some of them have, aud home of them haven't. Each can choose fur himself whether he will work or play ; for German university life is a very free life ; it seems to have no restraints. The student dues not live in the college buildings, but hires his own lodgings, in any locality he prefers, and he takes his meals when and where he pleases. He goes to bed when it m m m ■.■t. tn;ii|t!U«-im . 10 <^ A TRAIIP ABROAD. it i ' -I suite him, and does not gel np at »11 naleis iM wanto ta He is not entered at the nni< ^'«nity for any particular length of time ; ao ne i« likely to change abont. He paMae no examination upon entering oollexe. He merely paya a trifling of five or tea dol- lars, receives a card entitUng him to the privileges of the oniverAity, and that is the end ot it. fle is now ready for bosi- ness, — or play, a^he shall prefer. If he eleote to work, he finds a large listof lectures to choose from. He seleote the snbjecte which he will study, and enteTS his name for these studies ; but he can skip attendance. ^ The result of this qrstem is, that lecture- courses upon specialties of an unusal nature are often delivered to very slim audiences, while those upon more practical and every- day matters of education are delivered to very large ones. I heard of one case where, day after day, the lecturer's audience con- sisted of three students, — and always the same three. But one day two of them re- mained away, the lecturer began as usual, — ' (Jentl^men,' — — then, without a smile, he corrected himself, saying, — •Sir,'— —and went on with his discourse. It in said that the vast majority of the Heidelberg stu'ients are hard workers, And make the most of their opportunities ; that they have no surplus means to spend in dis- sipation, and no time to spare for frolick- ing. Oae lecture follows right on the heels of another, with very little time for the student to get out of one hall into the next ; but the industrious ones manage it by going on a trot. The professors assist them in the saving of their time by being promptly ui their little bored-up pulpite when the hours strike, and as promptly out again when the hour finishes. I entered an empty lecture room one day just before the dock straok. The place had simple, unpainted pine desks and benches for abont 200 persons. About a minute Iwfore tue dock struck, a hunaied and fifty students swarmed in, rushed to their seate, immediately spread open their note-books and dipped their pens in the ink. When the dock began to ittiike, a burly profeiwor entered, was received with a round of applause, moved swiftly down the center a^ile, said * Gentlemen,' and began te talk ai he climbed his pulpit steps ; and by the time he had arrived in his box and faced his audience, his lecture was well under way and all the pexts were going. He had no notes, he talked with prodigious ra- pidity and energy tor an houi, — then the stttdento began to remind him in certain well understood ways that his time was up ; he seized his hat, still talking, proosioded swiftly dewn his pulpit steps, got out the last word of his discourse as he struck the floor everybody rose respeut* fuUy, and he swept rapidly down the aisle and disappeared. An instant rush for some other lecture room followed, and is a minute I was alone with the empty bwicher once more. Yes, without doubt, idle studente are not the rule. Out of eight hundred in the town, I kn3W the faces of only about fifty ; but these I saw everywhere, and daily. They walked about the streete and the wooded lulls, they drove in cabs, tiiey boated on tlw river, they sipped beer and coffee aftemoona in the Schloss gardens. A good many of tbem wore the coloured cape of the oorpa. They were finely and fashionably dressed, and their manners were quite superb, and they led an easy, careless, oomf(Mrteble Ufe. If a dozen of them sat together, and a lady or goutleman passed whom one of them knew aad saluted, they all rose te their feet and took off their caps. The members of m corps always received a fellow-member in this way too ; but they paid no attention to members of other corps ; they did not seem to see them. This was not a discourtesy, it was only a part of the elaborate land rigid corDB'Stiquette. There seems to be no chilly distance ex- istinn between the Oerman studente and the professor; but on the oontrary, m oomj^nionable intercouse, the oppoeito of ohilliuess and reserve. When the professor enters a beer hall in the evening where studente are gathered together, these rise up and teke off their caps and invite tbtold gentleman to sit with them and partake. Be accepte, sod the pleasant talk and the beer flow for an hour or two, and by and by the professor, properly charged and oomfurteble, gives a cordial good night, while the studente stand bowing and uncovered ; and then he moves on his happy way homeward with all his vast cargo of learning afloat in his hold. Nobody finds fault or feels outraged ; no harm has been done. It seemed to be a part of thecurpe-etiquetto to keep a dog or so, too. I mean a oorps-dog —the common property of the organization, like the oorps-steward or head servant ; then there are other dogs, owned by indi- viduals. On a summer afternoon in the Oastle tfju- dens, I have seen six studente march solemn- ly into the grouads, in single file, each carrying a bright Chinese parasol and lead- ing a prodigious dog by a string. It was m ^^¥mim'« up I he trooMded gob oat » M he reipeut' lown the ukt nub d,aod ic ybenaber u are nofc thetowB, Bfty ; ba« ly. They le wooded led on the ftfternoooa many of the oorpe. f dreMod* iperb, end table life, nd e lady of them their feet abera of m nemher in tention to not aeem torteajTi it rigid atanoeez- enta uid ntrary, » »poaite at profeaaor ing where ise riaeap te theold partake. talk and o, and by oharged al good wing and i» happy cargo of )ody iinda baa been •etiquette oorps-dog aication, aervant ; by indi- ■tie «ar- . solemo* ile, each id lead. It waa » A TRAMP ABROAIX II Tery imposi ig apt.~X 4. Sometimea there would >ie aboat ai; 7i»ny doga aronnd tbe pivilion aa studenta ; aud of all breeds and of all degraea of beauty and nglineaa. These don had a rather dry time of it; for they were tiea to the benohea and had uo amusement for an hour or two at a ome except what they oould get out of pawing at the gnats, or toying to sleep and not suooeediag. How- oyer, they got a lump of augar oooasionally — ^they were fond of thatk It aeemed right and proper that students should indulge in dogs ; but every body else had them, too— old men and young ones, old women and niae young ladies. If there is one spectacle that is napleasanter than an> other, it is of an elegantly-dreaaed youn^ lady towing a dog bv a strinp;. It is said to be the sign and aymbol of blighted love. Ic aeems to me that aome other way of advertising it might be devised, which would be just as conspicuous and yet not so try- ing to tbe properties. It would be a mistake to suppose that the easy-going pleasure-seeking student carries an empty head. Just the contrary. He has spent nine years in the gynmasium, under a system which allowed him no freedom, but vigorously compelled him to work like a slave. Cousequently he has left the gym- nasium with au education which is so ex- tensive and complete, that the moat a uni- versity can do for it is to perfect some of its profoander specialties. It is said chat when a pupil leaves the gymnasium, he not only has a comprehensive education, but he knows what he knows — it is not befogged with uncertainty, it is burnt into him so that it will stay. For instance, he does not mere- ly read and write Greek, but speaks it ; the same with the Latin. Foreign youth steer clear of the gymnasium ; ita rules are too severe. They go to the university to put a mansard roof on their whole general educa- tion i but the German student already has his mansard roof, so he goes there to add a steeple in the nature of some specialty, such aa a particular branch of law, or medicine, or philology — like international law, or dis- eases of the eye, or special study of the an- cient Gothic tongues. So this German at- tends only the lectures which belong to the chosen branch, and drinit^ his beer and tows his dog around and has a general good time the rest of the day. He haa been in rigid bondage so .long that the large liberty of university life is just what he needs and Ukea and thoroughly appreciates ; and as it can- not last forever, he makes the most of it while it does last, and so lays up a good reat against the day that muat aee him put on the ohaina onne more and enter the of official or professional life. alavery OHAPrifiR V. AT THI STUDBinrB' D VSUirO OltOVND. One day in the interest of aoienoemy agent obtained permission to bring me to the stu- dents' dueling place. We crossed the river and di.x>ve up the bank a few hundred yards, then tutned to the left, entered a narrow alley, followed it a hundred yards and arrived at a two-story public house ; we were acquainted with ita outside aspect, for it was visible from the hotel. We went up stairs and passed into a large whitewashed apartment which wits perhaps fifty feet long, by thirty feet wide and twunty or twenty- five high. It waa a well lighted place. There was no carpet. Across one end and down both sides of the room extended a row of tables, and at these tables some fifty or seventy-five students were sitting. tSome of them were sipping wine, others were playing cards, others chess, other groups were chattering together, and many were smoking cigarettes while they waited for the coming duels. Nearly all of them wore coloured caps ; there were white caps, green caps, blue caps, red caps, and bright yellow ones , so ail the five corps were pre- sent in strong force. In the windows at the vacant end of the room stood six or eight long, narrow-bladed swords with large pro- tecting guards for the hand, and outside was a man at work sharpening others on the grindstone. He understood hia buainess i for when a sword left his hand one could shave himself with it. It was observable that the young gentle- men neither bowed to nor spoke witli stu- deutb whose caps differed in colour from their own. This did not mean hostility, but only an armed neutrality. It was consider- ed that a person could strike harder in the duel, and with a more earnest interest, if he had never been in a condition of comrade- ship with his antagonist ; therefore, com* radeship between the corps was not per- mitted. At intervals the president of the five corps have a cold offi'iial intercourse with each other, but nothiug further. For example, wh«n the regular dueling day of the corps approaches, its president calls for volunteers from amung the membership to offer battle ; three or more respond — but there must not be less than three ; the president lays their names before the other presidents, with the request that they fur- nish antagonists for these ohallengen from among their corps. This is promptly done. *-^'0.. , a; ^ ! rtiifi p r^; < * .'."i 12 A rtBAMF ABROAD. It obanofld that the preient oocanon w«a the battle d*y of the Red Cap Corpe. They wore the challeof(en, and oertaiu oapa of other ooloara had volnnteered to meet th«in. The etudenta fight dnele in the room which I have detoribed, two days in every week dar- ing seven and a half or eight months in every year. This onstom baa oontinned in Gher- many two handred and fifty years. To return to my narrative. A student in a white oap met us and introduoed us to six or eight friends of his who also wore white oape, and while we stood oon- versing, two strange lodung figures were led in from another room. They were students EanopUed for the duel. They were bare- eaded ; their eyes were protected by iron {(Oggles which proj»otei1 an inch or more, the eatner straps of which bound their ears flat against their heads ; their necks were wound around and around with thick wrappings which a sword could not out through ; from chin to ankle they were padded thorouKhly against injury ; their arms were bandaged and re-bauda|;ed, layer upon layer, until they looked like solid blaoic logs. These weurd apparitions had been handsome youths, clad in fashionable attire, fifteen minutes be- fore, but now they did not: resemble any beings one ever sees unless in nightmares.. They strode along, with their arms project- ing stfi^ight out from their bodies ; they did not bold them out themselves, but fellow students walked beside them and gave the needed support. There was a rush for the vacant end of the room, now, and we followed and got good places. The combatants were placed face to face, sach with several members of his own corps about him to assist; two seconds, well padded, and with swords in their bands, took near stations ; a student belongin|[| to neiuher of the oppofling corps placed himself in a good position to umpire the combat ; another student stood by with a watch and a memorandum-book to keep record of the time and the number and nature of the wounds ; a gray-haired surgeon was present with his lint, his bandages and his instruments. After a moment's pause the duelists saluted the umpire respectfully, then one after ancther the several officials stepped forward, gracefully removed their caps and saluted him also,' and returned to their places. Everything was ready, now ; students stood crowded together in the fore- ground, and others stood behind them on chairs and tables. Every face was turned toward the centre of attraction. The combatants were watching each other with alert eyes ; a perfect stillness, a breathless interest reigned. I felt that I was soil in^ to Me tome wary work. But not so. the instant the word was given, the two ap« paritions sprang forward and began to nua blows down upon each other with such lightning rapidity that I could not quite tell whether I saw the swords or only the flashes they n'.ade in the air ; the rattling din of these blows, as they struck steel or paddings was something wonderfully stirring, and they were struck with such terrific force that I could not understand why the oppos- ing sword was not beaten down under the assault Presently, in the midst of the sword-flasbes, I saw a handful of hair skip into the air as if it had lain loose on the victim's head and a breath of wind had puffed it suddenly away. The seconds cried ' halt 1' and knocked up the combatants' swords with their own. The duelists sat down ; a student-official stepped forward, examined the wounded head uid touched the place with a sponge once or twice ; the surgeon came and turned back the hair from the wound — and revealed a crimson gash two or three inches long, and proceeded to bind an oval piece of leather and a bunch of lint over it; the tally keeper stepped up and tallied one for the op* position in bis book. Then the duelists took position again ; a small stream of blood was flowing down the side of the injured man's head, and over his shoulder and down his body to the floor, but he did not seem to mind this. The word was given, and they plunged at each other as fiercely as before; once more the blows rained and rattled and flashed ; every few moments the quick-eyed seconds would no- tice that a sword was bent — then they called ' halt !' struck up the contending weapons, and an assisting student straightened the bent one. The wonderful turmoil went on — presently a bright spark sprung from a blade^ and that blade, brosen in several pieces, sent one of its fragments flying to the ceiling. Anew sword was provided, and the fight proceeded. The exercise was tremendous, of course, and in time the flghters began to show great fatigue. They were allowed to rest a mo- ment, every little while , they got other rests by wounding each other, for then they could sit down while the doctor applied the lint and bandages. The law is that the battle must continue fifteen minutes if the men can hold out , and as the pauses do not count, this duel was protracted to twenty or thirty minutes, I judged. At last it was decided that the men were too much wearied to do battle longer. They were led away drenched with crimson from head to foot. That was a good fight, but it could not t^'mi*. t'->r(iy- becanl minuf uattMl wonn^ law fonghl their. Dur iiiiip.i«f»»== A T£AMP ABROAD. 13 Bat not so. 9, th« two ap« beg»a tonua ir with raoh not qaite t«Il ily the flMhes kttling din of 9I or paddings atirnng, and terrific force hy the oppoi« iwn under the midst of the I of hair skip n loose on the of wind had d knocked up leirown. The ffioial stepped ded head ind oDge once or . turned back nd revealed a hes long, and !ce of leather it; the tally >ne for the op* ition again ; a ing down the and over his the floor, bat The word each other as the blows ; every few s woold no- |n they called iig weapons, ghtened the |u — presently tde j and that i, sent one of ling. A new \t proceeded, course, and show great rest a mo- it other rests they could lied the lint [t the battle bhe men can not count, Ity or thirty Ivas decided laried to do \y Hrenched That was '1)1*. tlTftly beoaase it did not last the lawful fifteen minutM (of actual fighting), and partly be- cause neither man was disablea by his wounds. It was a drawn battle, and corps* laiw requires that drawn battles shall be re- fought as soon as the adversaries are well of their hurts. Daring the oonflict I had tilked a little, now ana then, with a youns gentleman of the white cap corps and he had mentioned that he was to fight neact^and had also pointed out his challenger, a young mau who wasleaning against the opposite wmI smoking a oigarette and restf ally observing the duu then in progress. M^ acquaintanceship with a purl^ to the oomine contest had the effect of giving me a kind m personal interest iu it ; I naturally wished he might win, and it was the reverse of pleasant to learn that he probably would not, because although he was a notable swordsman, the chaUenger was held to be his superior. The duel presently b^gan and in the same furious way which had marked the previous once. I stood close by, but oould not tell which blows told and which did not, they fell and vanished so like flashes of light. They all seemed to tell ; the swords always bent over the opponents' heads, from the forehead back over the crown, and seemed to touch, all the way ; but it was not so — a protecting blade, invisible to me, was always interposed. At the end d ten seconds each man had struck twelve or fif- teen blows, and warded off twelve or fifteen, and no harm done ; tlien a sword became disabled, and a short rest followed whilst a new one was brought. Early in the next round the white corps' student got an ugly wound on the aide of his head and gave his opponent one like it. In the third round the latter received another bad wound in the head, and the former had his uoder-lip divided. After that, the white corps student gave many severe wounds, but got none of consequence in return. At the end of five minutes from the beginning of tiie duel the surgeon stopped it; the challenging party had suffered such injuries that any ad- dition to them might be dangerous. These injuries were a fearful spectacle, but are better left undesoribed. So, against expec- tation, my acquaintance was the victor. CHAPTER VI, V^'..r ':a<.W' The third duel was brief and bloody. The surgeon stopped it when he saw th, with ft most impetuona energy, without wait- ing for any body tn givf* the word. This VMtly ftmnited the epectfttors, and even broke down their studied and eourtly gravity and surprised them into laughter. Of course the seconds struck up the swords and started the duel overagain. At the word, thedeluge of blows began,but before long the surgeon once more interfered — for the only reason wliioh ever permits him to interfere — and the day's war was over. It was now two in the afternoon, and I had been preeent since hslf past nine in the morning. The field of battle was indeed a red one by this time ; but some . sawdust soon riehted that. There had been . one duel beforel arrived. In it one of the , men received many injuries, while the other ' one escaped without a scratch. I had seen the heads and faces of ten youths gashed in every direction by the keen two-edged Uades, and yet had not seen a victim wince, nor heard a moan, or detected any fleeting expression which con- fesBcd the sharp pain the hurts were in- flioting. This was good fortitude indeed. Such endurance is to be expected in savages and prise fighters, for they are born and educated to it ; but to find it in such . perfection in these gently bred and kindly natured young fellows is matter for surprise. It was not merely under the excitement of the sword-play that this fortitude was shown ; it was shown in the surgeon's room where an uninspiring quiet reigned, and where there was no audience. The doctor's manipulations brought out neither grimaces nor moans. And in the fight it was observ- able that these lads hacked and slashed with the same tremendous spirit, after they were oovered with streaming wounds, which they had shown in the beginning. The world in general looks upon the col* lege duels as very farcical affairs ; true, but considering that the college duel is fought by boys ; that the swords are real swords ; and that tile head and face are exposed, it seems to me that it is a farce which has quite a grave side to it. People laugh at it mainly because they think the student is so oovered up with armour that he cannot be hurt. But it is not so ; his eyes an^ ears are protected, but the rest of his face and head are bare. He can not only be badly wounded, but his life is in danger ; and he would sometimes lose it but for the interference of the sur* geon. It is not intended that his life shall be endangered. Fatal accidents are possible, however. For instance, the student's sword may break, and the end of it fly up behind his antagonist's ear and cut an artery which oould not be reached if the sword remained whole. This has happened, sometimes, and death has resulted on the spot. Formerly the student's armpits were not protected, — and at that time the swords were pointed, whereas, they are blunt, now ; so an artery in the armpit was sometimes cut, and death followed. Then in the days of sharp-point* ed swords, a spectator was an occasional victim— the end of a broken sword flew five or ten feet and buried itst'lf in his neck or his heart, and death ensued instantly. The student duels in Germany occasion two or three deaths every years, now, but this arises only from the carelessness of the wounded men; they eat or drink imprudent- ly, or commit excesses in the way of over- exertion ; inflammation sets in and gets such a headway that it cannot be arretted. In- deed there is blood and pain and danger enough about the college duel to entitle it to a considerable degree of respect. All the customs, all the laws, all the de- tails, pertaining to the student duel are quaint and naive. The grave, precise, and courtly ceremony with which the thing is conducted, invests it with a sort of antique charm. This dignity, and these knightly graces suggest the tournament, not the prize fight. The laws are as curious as they are strict. For instance, the duelist may step forward from the line he is placed upon, if he chooses, but never back of it. If he steps back of it, or even leans back, it is consider- ed that he did it to avoid a blow or contrive an advantage ; so he is dismissed from his corps in disgrace. It would seem but natural to step from under a descending sword un- consciouslyj and against one's will and in- tent— yet this unconsciousness is not allow- ed. Again, if under the sudden anguish of a wound the receiver of it makes a grimace, he falls some degrees in the estimation of his fellows ; his corps are ashamed of him ; they call him ' hare foot,' which is the Ger- man equivalent for chicken-hearted. **' ' CHAPTER VIL V In addition to the corps laws, there ar« somecorps usages which have the forceof laws. Perhaps the president of a corps notices that oneof the membership who is no longer an exempt-T-that is, a freshman — has remained a sophomore some littie time without volun teering to fight ; some day, the president, insteed of calling for volunteers, will appoint •tude| oliue- pulsi<| haardi would than the I spicud when) memt law oustod writtJ Th^ did dreBS< jilMUmjftliHiiiiWi' ,^:f'.:in k I I r < A t • • I ' "11 ''-^'.-r-*— !'■•■» ""T': A TllAMP ABliOAD. 16 tre pouible, dent's iword ly up behind irtery ^hioh rd rem»ined lefcimeB, and Formerlv i protected, rere pointed, ■o an artery i, and death ■harp-point- 1 oooasional ord flew five 1 his neok or lantly. The teion two or iw, bat this mess of the I imprudent- %y of over- nd gets suoh rented. In- and danger entitle it to n, all the de- nt duel are precise, and the thing is t of antique ghtly graces prize fight. y are strict. tep forward pon, if he If he steps is consider- or contrive from his rat natural sword un- nrill and in. not allow- anguish of ■ grimace, istion of his id of him ; the Ger- ed. there are >roeof laws. ps notices lo longer an remained a lout volun president, vill appoint this sophomore to measure swords with m student of another corps ; he is free to de- oltne — everybody says so — there is no com* pulsion. This is all true — but I have not hsard of any student who did decline. He would naturally rather retire from the corps tiian decline , to decline, and still remain la the oorps would make him uniileasantly con- spicuous, and properly so, since he knew, wh«i he joined, that his main business, as a member, would be to fight. No, there is no law against declining— except the law of custom, which is confessedly stronger than written law, everywhere. The ten men whose duels I had witnessed did not go away when their hurts were dressed, as I had supposed they would, but oame back, one after another, as soon as they were free of che surgeon, aod mingled with the assemblage in^ the ciuelliag rDOin. The white cap student who won the second Ht{ht witnessed the remaining three, aod talked with us during the intermissions. He could not talk very well, because his opponent's •word had cut his under lip in two, and then the surgeon had sewed it together and over- laid it with a profusion of white plaster patches ; neither could he eat easily, btill he contrived to accomplish a slow and trouble- some lun-jheon while the last duel was pre- paring. The man who was the worst hurt of all, played chess while waiting to see this engagement A good part of his face was covered with patoties and bandages, and all the rest of his head was covered and con- cealed by them. It is said that the student likes to appear on the street and in other public places in this kind of array, and that this predilection often keeps him out when exposure to rain or sun is a positive danger tor him. Newly bandaged students are a very common spectacle in the public gardens of Heidelberg. It is also said that the stu- dent is glad to get wounds in the face, be- cause the soars they leave will show so well there; and it is aUo said that these face- wounds are so prized that youths have even been known to pull them apart from time to time and put red wine in them to make them heal badly and leave as ugly a scar as possi- ble. It does not look r«-asoDable, but it is roundly asaerced and maintained, neverthe- less; I am sure of one thine: — scars are plenty enough in Qeimany among the young men , and very grim ones they are, too. They criss-cross the face in angry red welts, and are permanent and ineffaceable. Some of these ccars are of a very strange and dreatlful aspect ; and the effect is striking when several such accent the milder ones, which form a city map on a mail's face; they suggest the 'burned district ' then. We had often noticed that many of the students wore a coloured silk baud or ribbon diagonally across their breasts. It transpir* ed that this signifies th.tt the wearer has fought three duels in which a decision was reached — duels in which he either whipped or was whipped, — fur drawn battles do not count.* Alter a Htndent has received his ribbon, he is 'free;' be can cease from fighting, withous reproach — except some one insult hr in summer the college term is about three and half months, and in winter it is four months aod sometimes longer. Of the seven hundred and fifty students in the university at the time I am writing of, only eighty belonged to the five corps, and it is omy these corps that do the dueling; occasionally other students borrow the arms and battle- ground of the five corps in order to settle a quarrel, * From mt Diart.— Dined in a hotel a few miles up the Neokar, in a room w-f se walls were htmg all over with framed portrait-groupa of the Five Corps; some were re ent. but many antedated phouMjiphy, and were pictured ia lithography- the^ateH ranged back to fori.>- or fifty years ago. Neidy every iniiivi.ual wore the rii)bon across bis tt ei-t In im.h portrai group representing (as each «>f theoe pictures did) an entir,:::, : .„..•... [How strangely are oomedy and tragedy blended in this life 1 I had not been home a full half hour, after witnessing those playful sham-duels, when circumstances made it no* oessary for me to get ready immediately to assist personally at a real one— a duel with no effeminate limitations in the matter of re* suits, but a battle to the death. An account of it, in the next chapter, will show the reader that duels between boys, for fun, and ,¥;nAi >vi : 'i gWiWMiW-t'^gsg^^^- SiS^M ^■■BHHHHBw gisr|iS-ii'*i«»-*. .>&'>;#?' laoh • t«ble by whose to viait the )— PraHUui i«ny white }loar. The M> ns, who group wHh ; ouly with aeir K^Mta, (her oolon. >me of the It Mid. ' It now lu the » i they will leatly, uid lien • eword wanted a rrong ooloiir beet to await ought to me I will now »y tracing a iw the width the eword is [uite heavy, g the ooune » naturally kde any de- iver brilliant , no sign or moved. A . were main- ed and we ten of the been intro« le courteouB ands ; their >kofF their tinghanda; treated na ^hite oapS'— oioualy, and mtdid not there. If iS week aa irhite oapi, onld have der and ig- nd tragedy leen home a ,oM playful oaade it no« Lediately to duel with latter of re- An aocount show the or fun, and (U< A TRAMP AbROAD. 17 Mwls between men in earnest, are V9ry dif ' rent affairs.] CHAPTER VIII. THK ORKAT VRKfOH DUEL. w t»a« Ktuchasthe modem Frenoh duel is ridionled by certain smart peofile, it is in reality one of the moat dangerous institutions of our day. Since it was always fought in the open air the combatants tre nearly sure to catch cold. M. Paul de Caasagnac, the most inveterate of the Frenoh duelists, has suffered so often in this way that he is at last a confirmed inva- lid ; and the best physician in Paris has ex- pressed the opinion that if he goes on duel- ing for fifteen or twenty years more— unless he forma the habit of fif^htins in a comfort- able room where damps and drauahts cannot intrude— he will eventually endanger his life. This ought to moderate the talk of those people who are so stubborn in main- taining that the French duel is the most health-giving of recreations because of the open-air exercise it affords. And it ought also to moderate that fooliah talk about French duelists and socialist-hated monaroha being the only people who are immortal. But it is time to get at my subject. As soon as I heard of the late fiery outbreak be- tween M. Gambetta and M. Fourtor in the French Assembly, I knew that trouble must follow. I knew it because a long personal friendship with M. Gambetta had revealed to me the desperate and implacable nature of the man. Vaat as are his physical pro- portions, I knew that the thirst for revenge would penetrate to the remocest frontiers cf bis person. I did not wait for him to call on me, but went at once to him. As I expected, I found tiie brave f eUow steeped in a profound French oalro. I say French calm, because French calmness and English calmness have points of difference. He waa movint; swiftly back and forth among the debris of his furniture, now and then staving chance fragments of it across the room with his foot ; grinding a constant grist ot curses through his set teeth; and halting every little wbile to deposit an- other han'lful of hair on the pile which he had been buildina; of it on the table. He threw his arms around my neck, bent me over his stomach to bis breast, kissed me on both cheeks, hugsed me four or five times, and then placed me in his own arm- chair. As soon as I had got well again we began business at once. I said I supposed he would wish me to act as his second, and he said, ' Of course.' I said I must be allowed to act under a Frenoh name, so that I might be shielded from obloquy in my country, in oaM of fatal results. He winced here, probably at the ■ngsestion that dueling waa not regarded with retpeot in Araenoa. However, he agreed to my requirementi. Thia aooonnti for the fact that in all the newspaper reports M. Oambetta's second was apparency a Frenchman. First, we drew np my principal's wiU. I insisted upon this and' stuck to my point. I said I had never heard of a man in hia right mind going out to fight a duel without first making his will. He said he never heard of a man in his right mind doing anythius of the kind. When he had finished the will, he wished to proceed to a choice of his ' last worda.' He wanted to know how the following words, aa a dying excUmatioa, struck : — ' I die for my God, fbr my country, for freedom of speech, for progress, and tiie uni- versal brotherhood of main i' I objected that this would require too lingering a death ; it was a good speech for a consumptive, but not suited to the exi- gencies of the field of honour. We wrangled over a ii;ood many ante-mortem outbursts, but I finally got him to cut his obituary down to this, which he copied into his memo- randum book, purposing to get it by heart: — ' I DIE THAT FRANCE MAT LIVE. I said that this remark seemed to lack relevancy ; but he said relevancy was a matter of no consequence in last words, what you wanted was thrill. The next thing in order waa the choice of weapons. My principal said he waa not feeling well, and would leave that and the other details of the proposed meeting to me, Therefore I wrote the following note and CMr-> ried it to M. Fbnrtou's friend :— - ' Sir : M. Gambetta accepts M. Fourton'a - challenge, and authorizes me to propose Flessis- Piquet as the place of ineeting ; to- morrow iiaorning at daybreak as the time ; and axes as the weapons. I am, sir, with great respect, Mark TwAjyt'* M. Fourton's friend read this note, and shuddered. Tnen be turned to me, and said,, with a suggestion of severity ia bis tane : — ' Have you considered, sir, what would be> the inevitable result cf such a meeting aa* this ?' • Well, for instance, what would it be ?' ", ' Bloodshed !' ' That's ab ut the size of it,' I said. ' Now^ . if it is a fair question, what was your side • proposing to shed V I had him there. He saw he had made a. 11; ul /■ • ISirMUtt**^- *A 18 A TRAMP ABROAD. I .. ■ rll ' blooderi m h* hMt«n«d to ezpUia it mwj. He ttid h* hftd raoktB iMiinaly. TImo m added th*t he ena hie piinoipM would eoj azee, uid indeed pvuer tnem, bal weeponi were bemd by the Freaoh oode, and 10 1 moet ohaage my propoeal. I walked the floor, tumiog the thing over in my mind, and floallv it ooonrred to me that Oatling gnni at fifteen paoea would be n likely way to get a verdiet on the field of liononr. So I framed thia idea into a propo* ■ition. Bnt it waa not acoepted. The oode waa in ihe way again. I piopoaed rifiei ; then •donble-barrelledihot'gana; then, Oolt'a navy reTolven. Theae beuig all reieoted, I re* I fleeted awhila, and aaioaitioally aa^oeated , brick-bata at three qnartera of a mue. I always hate to fool away a humoroos thing on a person who haa no pwoeption of hamonr; and it filled me with bittemeaa when this man went soberly away to submit the last proposition to his piinoipaL He oame back presently and said his prin- oipal was charmed with the idea of brick-bats «t three qaartors of a mile, but most decline •n account of the danger to disintereated partiea oasaing between. Then I said :— ' Well, I am at the end of my string, now. Terhaps you would be good enough to sug* gest a weapon ? Perhaps you have even had one in your own mind all uie time ?' His countenance brightened, and he said with alacrity — * Oh, without doubt, monsieur !' So he fell to huntins in his pockets — pocket after pocket, and he had plenty of Ihem — muttering all the while. ' Now, what ootdd I have done with them ?' At last he was sncoessfuL He fished out of his pocket a couple of little things which I carried to the light and ascertained to be pistols. They were single*batTelled and silver-mounted, and very dainty and pretty. I was not able to speak for emotion. I silently hung one of them on my watch chain, and returned the other. My companion in crime now un- rolled a postage stamp containing several cartridges, and gave me one of them. I ask- ed if he meant to signify by this that our men were to be sUowed but one shot apiece. He replied that the French oode permitted no more. I then begged him to go on and sngeest a distance, lor my mind waa growing weak and confused under the strain which had been put upon it. He named sixty-five yards. I nearly lost my patience. I said— ' Sixty-five yards, with these instruments? vSquirt guns would be deadlier at fifty. Oon- aider, my friend, you and I are banded to- gether to destroy life, not to make it eternal.' But with all my peranaaions. all my argn- ments, I waa only able to get him to rednoe the distance to thirty-five yarda ; and even this concession he made with relnotanoe, and eaid with a sigh— ' I wish my hands of thia alanghter ; on your head faoik' There was nothing for me bnt to co home to my old lionheart and tell my humiliating story. When I entered, M.Oambetta waa laying his laat lock of hair upon the altar. He sprang toward mo, exclaiming: ' xon have made tha fatal arrangements— I aee it in your eye 1' •Ihave.^ • Hie faoe palad a trifle, and he leaned upon the table for support. He breathed thick and heavily for a moment or two^ so tunnltnoua were his feelings i than ha hoarsely whispered — ' The weapon, tha weapon 1 Qniok f what is the weapon f ' This !' and Idisplayad thatailver-nuNint* ed thing. He cast but oue glance at it» than swooned ponderously to the floor. When he came to, he said mournfully — ' The unnatural oalm to which I have subjected myself haa told upon my nervea. But away with weakness I I will oonf rout myfate like a man and a Frenchman.' He -<)se to his feet, and assumed an atti- tude which for sublimity has never been approached by man, and haa seldom been approached by statnsa. Then he said, in hia deep base tonea — ' JBehold, I am oalm, I am ready ; reveal to me the diatance.' ' Thirty-five yards.' I could not lift him up, of course ; bnt I rolled him over, and poured water down his back. He presently came to, and said — ' Thirty-five yards — without a reet T Bnt why aak T Since murder waa that man'a in- tention, why should he palter with small de- taila T But mark you one thing : in my fall the world shall see how the chivalry of France meets death.' ,>i..-»„i..->t. After a long silence he asked — ' Was nothing said about that man's family standing up with him, aa an offset to my bulk ! But no matter ; I would not stoop to make such a suitgestion ; if he is not noble enough to suggest it himaolf , he is welcome to this advantage, which no hon- ourable man would take.' He now sank into a sort of stupor of re- flection, which lasted some minutes ; after which he broke silence with— ' The hour— what is the hour fixed for the collision T' .,,. ■.Au.o^.*!* ?M,tx. jjm ' Dawn to-morrow.' me thi '..'.U'O'.*** PPNNMi mKtaamKRi< ||8iir#rH«sit«»" «ii...A TRAMP ABROAD. 10 11 myarjpi* n to rcdoo* ; and trm ralootanoe, raghter ; on to CO homo homiliAtiDg nbatta wm Bthe altMr. kogamtnta— I he iMnad [e breathod i or two^ M 1^ thm ho I Qaiok! lTerr down hie deaid — reet T Bat it man's ia. ih amall de> in my fall )luTalry of ^t man's kn offset to wonld not if he is not niftlf, hois oh no hon- upor of re- tes ; after ced for the •■> .i I. He learned greatly aarprised, and im« mediately said— ' Insaaity ! I never heard of snoh a thing. Nobody is abroad at snoh an hear. ' ' That is the reason I named it Do yon mean to say yoa want an andienoe T* ' It is no time to bandy words. I am astonished that M. !Fonrtoa shonldever have agreed to so strange an innovation. Oo at onoe and require a later hoar.' I ran down stairs, threw open the front door, and almost planged into the arma of M. Fourton's seoond. He said,— ' I have the honour to say that mv principal strenaonsly objeots to the hoar chosen, and b4^ yon will consent to change it to half past nine.' ' Any oourtes/, sir, which it is in onr power to extend ia at tiie service of year ex- cellent principal. We agree to the proposed change of time.' ' I beg yon to aooept the thanks of my olient.' 'Then he tnrned to a person behind bini, and said, ' Yon hear M. Noir, the hoar is altered to half -past nine.' Whereupon M. Moir bowed, expressed his thanks, and went away. My acoomplioe oontinned : — ' If agreeable to you, your chief surgeons «nd ours shall proceed to the field in the aame carriage, as is customary.' ' It is entirely agreeable to me, and I am obliged to yon for mentionina the surgeons, for I am afraid I should not have thought of them. How many shall I want ? I suppose two or three will be enough T ' ' Two is the customary number for each partjr. I refer to chief surgeons ; but con> sidering the exalted positions occupied by oui- clients, it will be weii and decorous that each of us appoint several consulting sur- geons, from among the highest in the pro- fession. These will come in their own pri- vate carriages. Have you engaged a hearse V ' Bless my stupidity, I never thought of it ! I will attend to it right away. 1 must seem very ignorant to you ; but you must try to overlook that, because I have never had any ex jerienoe of such a swell duel as this before. ' I have had a good deal to do with duels on the Paoifio coast, but I see now that they were crude affaire. A hearre, — «ho I we used to leave the elected lying around loose, and let anybody cord them up and cart them off that wanted to. Have you anything farther to suggest T ' ' Notlung, except that the head nnder- takers shall ride together, as is usual. The aubordinates and mntes will go on foot, as is also usual. I will see yon at eight o'clock in the morning, and we will then arrange the order of the procession. I have the honour to bid you a good dav.' . I returned to my client, who said, * Vsry well ; at what hour ia the engagement to be- gin?' * Half-past nine.' ' ^^'y S raoter of the weapons, the limited number of ibota allowed, the generoua diatance, tbe ini- Cnetrable aolidity of the fog, and the added )t that one of the oombattnta ie one-eyed •nd the otne" orosa-eyttd and near-sighted, it ■aema to me that thia oontitot need not necess- arily be fatal. There are chances that both •f you may survlTo. Therefore, cheer up ; 4o Mkt\% be down-hrarted. ' This speeoh had ao good an effeot tliat my principal immediately atretohed forth h'u kand and aaid, ' I am myself again, give me the weapon.' I |laid it all lonely and forlorn iu the centre of the vast solitude of his pa^m. He gssed at it and shuddered. And still mournfully oontempiAtinit it, be murmured, in a broken voice,— * Alaa, it is aut death I dread but mutila- tion.' I heartened him once more, and with such ■uooaas that be pr«aent!y said, ' Let the tra- gedy beain. Stand at my back ; do not d«- ■ert me m thia solemn hour, my friend.' I gave him my promise. I now aasisted bim to point his pistol toward the spot where I judged his adversary to be s<-and- ing, and cautioned him to liatea well and further guide hata;. ^' by my fellow aeoond's whoop. Then I pi ped my««lf against M. Oambetta'a bach, i>. tvised a rousing • \Vhoop>ee ! ' 'J'K'n r. aaswaied from out tbe far distanoe of it.j *«>.•, mA I immediate- ly ahonted^ •One — two— thi^te — fir* ! ' Two little aonnda like spit ! spit ! broke upon my ear, and in the aame instant I was crushed to the earth under a mountain of fio«h. Braised as I waa, I waa »tiU able to oatoh a faiat aocaat from •bove, to this effeot,— ' I die for . . . for . . . perdition take it, what ia it I die for f . . .ok. yee- Franoi I I die that Franoe may lit« ! ' The surgeons swarmed around witli their probes io their bands, and applied their miorosoopeo to tbe whole area of M. Oambetta's i>erson, with the happy result of fiading nothing in tbe nature of a wound. Then a soone ennsed whioh waa in every way gratifying and inapiring. The two gladiators fell apon eaoh other's necks, with floods of prond and happy tears ; that other second embraced me ; the sur- geons, the orators, tlie undertakers, the police, everybody embraced, everybody ooa- gratuiated, everybody cried, and the ^ hole atmoephere was tilled with praise and wi^u Joy unspeakable. It seemed to me then that I would rather be a hero of a French duel than a orowned and sceptred monarch. When the commotion had somewhat sub- sided, the body of surgeons held a consult- ation, and after a good ami of debate decideJ tnat with proper care and nursing there was reason to bvlieve that I would survive my injuries. My internal hurts were deemed the most serious, since it waa apparent that a br >ken rib had penetrated my left lung, ftua that many of my organs had been press- ed out so far to one nde or the other of where they belonged, that it waa donbtfal if they would ever learn to perform their functions in such remote and unaccustomed localities. They then set my left arm in two places, pulled my right hip Into im aooket again, and le-elevated my nose. I waa an object of great interest, and even ad- miration ; and many sincere and warm- hearted peraons had themaelves introduced to me, and said they were proud to know the only man who hstd b< m hurt in a French duel in forty yeara. [ was placed in an art^n. ' rhe very bead of the procession . u\u} tKj:» vith grati- fying eolat I was mai«;i;uu into Paris, the most conspicuous figure in that great spec- tacle, and deposited at the hospital. The cross of the Legion of Honour has been conferred upon me. However, few escape that distinotion. Such is tbe true version of the most mem- orable private oonflict of the »ep. I have no complainta to make against any one. I acted for myaelf, and I can stand the consequences. Without boasting, I think I may sav I am not afraid to stand be- fore a modem Wench duelist, but as long as I keep in my right mind I will never con- I sent to stand behind one again. i to Ger itKKammmmmmmt Jjfi+iiafflBfH'- A TRAMP ABROAD. SI to tUi W»";^' CHAPTER IX. On* d«T w« took tb* trftin mi' ' went dowu to MaDouiin to Ma King Leur ^i^yed in 0«rin»n. It wm a miitAke We Mt in <>iir MAta thre* whol* hoari Mid ne\ <* ondflratuoa anything bat th« thand«r ikad li^htniag ; and firan tbat wai nvoracd to lait (ierman idea«, (or th« thandtr oam* firat -nd tho lightning (ollowad aftw. Tha MhtTioar of th« andianoa waa par* faot. Thara were no matlioga, or whiaper* mg < or other little diatarbanoea ; each act >* M vatenad to in ailanoe, and the applauding 'K . J le after the oartidn waa down. The doo< i opened all half>paat four, the play began promptlv At half-paat five, and Mrithin two mmntea afterward all who were coming were in their aaata and qniet reigned. A Oermaa gentleman in the train had aaid that a Shakapaarian play waa an appreciated treat in Oarmany and that w* akonld find tne kooaa fillad. It waa troe ; all the aix tiera ware filled, and remained ao to the end, — whioh anggaaked that it ia not only balcony peopla who like Shakapeare in (Germany, bnl uoae of the pit and the gallery, too. Another time, we went to MJuinheim and attended a ahivarae, — otherwiae an opera, — til* one callad Lohenarin. The banging and ■lamming and boonung and oraahing were ■omethiog beyond beliM. The racking and pitileaa pain of it ramaina atored np in my memorv aloogaide the memoiy of the time that I bad my taeth fixed. There were cir- cnmatanoaa wuioh made it neoeaaary for me to atay throngh the four honra to the end, and I atayed; but the reooUeotion of that lon^ , dragging, relentleaa aeaaon of aaffering la indestrnotible. To have to endure it in ■ilenoe and aitting atill. made it all the hardei^ I waa in a railed compartment with ei^ht or ten atrangenr, of the two aezea, «nd thia compelled rei>reeaion ; yet at tivaa the pain waa ao exquiaite that I could hardly keep the teara ! »m- pulaion to atay, yvt the tiera were aa full at the cloae aa they bad been at the begioDing, Thia ahowed that t He peoftlo liked it. It waa a curious ijort of a play. In the matter of coatume« and aoenery it waa tina and ■howv euough, but there waa not much action. That ia to say, there waa not much really done, it waa ouly talked about, and al* waya violently. It « as what one might call a narrative play. Everybody had a narrative and a grievanoe, and none were reaaonatolo abont it,batall inanotfenaiveand nugovera- able atate. There was little of that Hort of cuatomary thing where she tenor and the ao- {>rano atand down b^ toe footlighta, warb- ing, with blended voices, and lieep holding out their arma towarda emoh other and draw- ing them back and apreadins both handa over firat one breaat and then tne other with a ahake and a preaaure — no, it waa every rioter for himaelf, and no blending. Each aang hia indicative narrative in tarn, aocompanied by the whole orcheatra of aixty inatrument% and when thia had oontinU'-.d for aome time, and one waa hoping they m :ght come to an underatanding and modify tae noiae, a great ohoiua composed entirely oi maoiaca would suddenly break forth, and iben during two minutea, and aometiinea three, I lived over again all I bad auffered thb time the orphan aaylum burned down. W* only had on* brief little aaaaon of heaven and heaven'a aw**t ecstaoy and peaeo during all thia long and diligent and acrimo- nioua reproduction of the other place. Thia waa while a gorgeoua proceaaion of people marched around and aronnd in the third act, and sang the wedding chorua. . To my an* tutored ear that waa muaio— almoat divine muaio. While my aeared aoal waa ateeped in the healing balm of thoa* graoiooa aounida. h WW m /. \i> ni! ir^i;; # A TRAMP ABROAD. it seemed to me that I could almMt re>snffer tbe torments whioh had gone before, in order V3 be so healed again. There is where the deep ingennity of the operatic idea is betray- ed. It deals so largely in pain that its scattered delights are procugioasly augmented by the contrasts. A pretty air in an opera is pret* tier there than it could be anywhere else, I suppose, just as an honest man in politics shines more than he would elsewhere. I have since found out that there is nothing the Germana like so much as an opera. They like it, not in a mild and moderate way, but with their whole hearts. This is a legiti- mate result of habit and education. Our nation will like the opera, too, by and by, no doubt. One in fifty of these who attend our operas likes it already, perhaps, but I think a good mAuy of the other forty-sine go in order to learn to like it, and the reflt in order to be able to talk knowingly about it The latter nsually hum the airs while they are being sung, so that their neighbours may perceive that they have been to operas be- fore. The funerals of these do not occur often enough. A gentle, old-maidish person and a sweet young girl of seventeen sat right in front of us that night at the Mannheim opera. These people talked, between the acts, and lender- stood them, though I understood nothiDg that was uttered on the distant stage. At first they were guarded in their talk, but after they had heard my agent and me con- versing in English they dropped their reserve and I picked up many of their little con- lidences ; no, I mean many of her little con- iidences— meaning the elder party— for the young girl only listened, and gave assenting lu da, but never said a word. How pretty slie was, and how sweet she was i I wished she would apeak. But evidently she was absorbed in her own thoughts, her own young-girl dreams, and found a dearer plea- sure in silence. But she was not dreaming sleepy dreams — ^no, she was awake, alive, alert, she could not sit still a moment. She was an enchanting study. Her sown was of a soft white ailky stuff that olung to her round young figure like a fish's skin, and it was rippled over with the gracefuUest little f riogy films of lace ; she had deep, tender eyes, with long, curved lashes ; and she had peachy cheeks, and a dimpled chin, and such a dear little dewy rosebud of a mouth ; and hhe was so doTe-Uke, so pure, and so gracious, ao sweet and bewitching. For long hours I did mightily wish she wonla speak. And at last she did ; the red lips parted, and out leaped her thought — ^and with such a guilelsM and pretty aathnsiaim, too; ' Auntie, I jnit know I've got five hundred fleas on me 1' That was probably over the aTtrase. Yev, it must have been very much over uie aver- age. The average at that time in the Grand Duchy of Baden was forty-fi>«) to a yonng person, (when alone,) according to the of- ficial estimate of the Home Secretary for that year ; the average for older people was shifty and indeterminable, for whenever a whole* some young girl came into the presence cl her elders she immediately lowered their averam and raised her own. She became a sort of contribution box. This dear young thing in the theatre had been sitting there unoonsoionsly taking up a collection. Many a skinny old beine in our neighbourhood was the happier and t£e restfnller for her coming In that iaige audience, that nittht, there were eight very conspicuous people. These were ladies who had their hats or bonnets on. What a blessed thing it would be if a lady could make herself conspicuous in cor theatres by wearing her hat. It is not usual in Europe to allow ladies and gentle- men to take bonnets, hats, overcoats, canes or umbrellas into the auditorium, but in Mannheim this rule was not enforced be- cause the audiences were largely made up of people from a distance, and among these were always a few timid ladies who were afraid that if they had to go into an ante- room to get their things when the plav was over, they would miss their train. But the great mass of those who came from a distance always ran the risk and took the chances, preferring the loss of the train to a breach of good manners and the discomfort of being unpleasantly conspicuous during a stretch of three or four hours. CHAPTER X. Three or four hours. That is a long time to sit in one place, whether one be con- spicuous or not, yet some of Wagner's operas bang along for six whole hours on a stretch I But the people sit thwe and enjoy it idl, and wish it would last longer. A German lady in Munich told me that a per- son could not like Wagner's music at first, but must go through the deliberate process of learning to like it — then he would hav« his sure reward ; for when he had learned to like it he would hunger for it and never be able to get enough of it. She said that six hours of Wagner was by no means too much. She said that this composer had made a com- plete revolution in music and was burying the old masters ono by one. And she said that Wagner's operas differed, from all othen in one notable respect, and that was that theyi herea first I said sndffi Wed< nmsie if I wonli ^iilii||i,:hiffl«tBl*». .^w^mmi'^jm^wmsmm^mim^f' A TRAMP ABROAD. 9)^ handrol Ye*, lO aver- ihe Grand a yoang the of> 7 for that irasihiffy a whole- eience of >red their became a ar young lOg there 1. Many hood wai rooming, [ht, there I. TheM r bonnet! d be if a ns in cor t ia not i gentle- >ta, canea , bat in reed be- tde op of ng these 'ho were an ante- play was But the distance chances, >reachof ^ [>f being bretoh of tngtima be con- Wagner's irs on a id enjoy Rer. A it a per- at first, process Id have >rned to Bver be bhat six > much, a com- )urying he said 1 othcn u that they were not merely spotted with mnsi*' here and there, but were all music, from the first strain to the last. This surprised me. I said I had attended one of his insurrections, and found hardly any music in it except the Weddins Chorus. She said Lohenferin was noisier wan Wagner's other operas, but that if I would keep on going to see it I would find by and by that it was all nmsio, and therefore would then enjoy it. I could have said ' But would you advise a person to deliberately practise having the toothache in the pit of his stom- adb for a couple of years in order that he might then come to enjoy it f But I re- served that remark. This lady was full of the j^raises of the head tenor who had performed m a Wagupr optm the night before, and went on to en- large upon his old and prodigious fame, and .how many honours had been lavished upon him by tne princely houses of Germany. Here was another surprise. I had attended that very opera, in the person of my agent, and had made close and accurate observa- tions. So I said : — ' Why, madam, my experience warrants me in stating that that tenor's voice is not • voice at all, but only a shriek — the shriek of a hyena.' ' That is very true,' she ^id ; ' he cannot sing now ; it is already many years that be has lost his voice, but in other times he saog, divinely : so whenever he comes now, Ton shall see, yes, that the theatre will not nold the people. Jawchl bet Gott ! his voice is wundersohon in that past time.' I said she was discoveriug to me a kindly trait in the Germans which was worth emu- lating. I said that over the water we were not quite so generous ; that with us, when a singer had lost his voice and a jumper had lost his legs, these parties ceased to draw. I said I had been to the opera in Hanover, onoe, and in Mannheim once and in Munich, (through my authorized agent,) onoe, and this large experience had nearly persuaded me that the Germans preferred singers who couldn't sing. This was not such a very extravagant speech, either, for that burly Mannheim tenor's {traises had been the talk of all Heidelberg or a week before his performance took place — ^yet his voice was like the distressing noise whieh a nail makes when you screech it across a window pane. I said so to Heidel- bog friends the next day, and they said, in the calmest and simplest way, that that was very true, but that m earlier times his voice had been wonderfully fine. And the tenor in Hanover was just another example of this sort The English speakins; German gentle- ■n fT iiCJ * was AD astonishing If he had been be> have supposed they man who|went with me to theopera there was brimming with enthusiasm over that tenor. He said : — ' Ach Gott ! a gieat mMn ? Ton shall see him. He is so celebrate in all Germany — and he has a pension, yes, from the govern- ment. He not obliged to sing, now, only twice every year ; but if he not sing twice each year they take him his pension away.' Very well, we went. When the renowned old tenor appeared, I got a nudge and an ex cited whisper : 'Now you see him !' ' But the ' celebrate' disappointment to me. hind a screen I diould wer<> performing a surgical operation on him. I looked at my friend — ^to my great surprise he seemed intoxicated with pleasure, his eyes were dancing with eager delight When the curtain at last fell, he burst into the stormiest applause, and kept it up — as did the whole house — until the afflictive tenor had come three times before the curtain to make his bow. While the slowing enthu- siast was swabbing the perspiration from his face, I said : — ' I don't mean the least harm, but really, now, do you think he can sing f ' Him T TSo ! Gott im Himmel, aber, how he has been able to sing twenty-five years ago ?' [Then pensively.] ' Ach, no, now he not sing any more, he only cry. When he think he sins, now, he not sing at all. no, he only make like a oat which is un- well' Where and how did we get the idea that the Germans are a stolid, phlegmatic race? In truth they »r9 widely removed from that They are warm-hearted, emotional, impulsive, enthusi- astic, their tears come at the mildest touch, and it is not hard to move them to laughter. They are the very children of impulse. We are cold and self-contained, compared to the Germans. They hug and kiss and cry and shout and dance and sing ; and where we use one loving, petting exprenion they pour out a score. Their language is full of endear- ing diminutives ; nothing that they love escapes the application of a petting diminu- tive—neither the house, nor the dog, nor the horse, nor the grandmother, nor any other creature, animate or inanimate. In the theatres at Hanover, Hambui'g and Mannheim, they had a wise custom. The moment the curtain went up, the lights in the body of the house went down. The au- dience sat in the cool gloom of a deep twi- light, which greatly enhaneed the glowing splendours of the stage. It saved gas, too. hi lii ,..IMWMW»« 94 A TRAMP ABROAD. .t! f- - III fend the people w«r« not Bweatod to death. . When I Mir King Lew played^nobody wm ' allowed to aee a loene shifted ; if there wef nothing iko be done but elide a forest ont of the way and expoee a temple beyond, one did not lee that foreet split itself in the mid- dle and go shriekioy away, with the aooom- panying diBencbaoting spectacle of the hands and heMS of the impMling impulse^uo, the onrtain was always dropped for an instaat — one heard not the least movement behind it — bnt when it went up the next instant the forest was gone. Even when the stage was bein|; entirely re-set, one heard no noise. During the whole time that King Lear was playinfr, the onrtain was never down two minutes at any one time. The orchestra played until the onrtain was ready to go up for the iirat time, then they departed for the evening. Where the stagO' waits never reach two minutes there is no occasion for muaic. I had never seen this two-minute business between acts but onoe before, and that was when the ' Shaughran ' was played at Wal- laok's. I was at a concert in Munich one night, the people were streaming in, the clock hand pointed to seven, the musio struck up, and instantly all movement in the body of the house oeased-— nobody was standing, or walk- ing up the aisles or fumbling with a seat, tiie stream of incomers had suddenly dried up at its souroe. I listened undisturbed to a piece of musie that was fifteen minutes long— always expecting some tardy ticket- holders to come crowdins past my knees, and being continuously and pleasantly disap- Eointed— but when the last note was struck, ere came the stream again. You see, they had made these late oomers wait in the com- fortable waiting-parlour from the time the musio had begun until it was ended. It was the first time I had ever seen this sort of criminals denied the privilege of de- stroying the oomfort of a house full of their betters. Sknue of these were pretty fine birds, but no matter, they had to tarry out- side in the long parlour under the inspection ot adouUe nuuk of liveried footmen and waiting-maids who supported the two walls with their backs and held the wraps and traps of their maaten and mistressee on their arms. We had no footman to hold our things, and it was not permisuble to take them into the concert room ; but there were some men and women to take charge of them for us. They gave us cheeks for them and charged a fixed price, payable in advance— five cents. In Germany they always hear one thins at an opera which has never yet been heara in America, perhi^— I mean the dosing strain of a fine solo or duet. We always smash into it with an earthquake of applause. The result is that we rob ourselves of Uie sweetest part of the treat; we get the whisky, but we don't get the sugar in the bottom of the glass. Our way of scattering applause along through an act seems to me to be better than th^ Mannheim wav of saviog it all up till the act is ended. I do not see now an actor can forget himself and portray hot passion before a cold still audience. I shonld think he would feel foolish. It is a pain to me to^ this day, to remember how that old Oermaa Lear raged and wept and howled around the stage, with never a response from that hushed house, never a single outburst till the act was ended. To me there was something unspeakably uncomfortable in the solemn dead silences that always followed this old person'* tremendous outpourings of his feeU mgs. I could not help putting myself in his place — I thought I knew how sick and flat he felt during those silences, because I rvmem* bered a case which came under my observa- tion onoe, and which— but I wui tell the in- cident : One evening on board a Mississippi steam- boat, a boy of ten years lay asleep in a berth — a long, slim-Iesged boy, he was, encased in quite a short shirt ; it was the first time be had ever made a trip on a steamboat, and so he was troubled and scared and bad gone to bed with his head filled with impending snaggings and explosions and conflagrations and sudden death. About ten o'clock some twenty ladies were sitting around the ladies' saloon, quietly reading, sewing, embroider- ing, and so on, and among them sat a sweety benignant old dame with round speotaclee on her nose and her busy knitting-needles in her hands. Now all of a sudden, into the midst of this peaceful scene buret that slim-shau. ed bov u the brief shirt, wild-eyed, ereet- haired, and shouting, ' Fire, fire I jump and run, the boat's afire and tiiere ain't a minute to lose I' All those ^kdies looked sweetly up and smiled, nobodv stirred, the old lady pulled her spectacles down, looked over them and said gently — * But you musu't catch cold, child. Run and put on your breast-pin, and then oome and tell us all about it' It was a cruel chill to give to a poor little devil's gushing vehemence. He was expect- iuK to be a sort of hero— the creator of a wild panic— and here everybody sat and aatiled a mocking smile, and an old woman soade fun of his bugbear. I turned and crept humbly away— for I was that boy— 4uid never even cared to discover whether I had dreamed the fire or aotually seen it. \ lirtiBii-lsatirtiwuew- ■uii^Ngs of his feel- g myself in his sick and flat he suae I rumem- >r my observa- rultell the in- eisaippi steam- ileep in a berth i was, encased the first time iteambout, and and had gone ith impending coDflaerations n o'clock some and the ladies' Dg, embroider- )m sat a swee^ d speotaolee on g-needlesinher into the midat at slim-shaiw- Id-eyed, ereet- ire ! jum^ and ain't a mihnte ooked sweetly I, the old lady >ked over them i, child, ttnn nd then oome M a poor little le was expect- reatorof awild at and MiBiled 1 woman made led and crept liat boy — and irhether I had it I am told that in a Oerman oonoert or opera, they hardly erer encore a song ; that tnongh thev may be dying to hear it again, th«ir good breeding nsnally preserves tbem against requiring the repetition. Kings may encore ; tnat is qnite another matter ; it delights everybody to see that the king is pleased : and a< to the aotor en* cored, his pride and gratification are simply boundleas. Still, there are circnmstances in which even a royal encore — But it is better to illnstrate. The King of Bavaria is a poet, and has a poet's eccen- tricities—with the adventage ovei all other poets of being able to grati^ them, no mat- ter what form they may take. He is fond of the opera, bnt not fond of sitting in the presence of an aqdienoe ; therefore, it has sometimes occurred, in Mnnioh, that when an opera has been condndeJ and the players were getting o£f their paint and finery, n command has come to them to get their paint and fiaer^ on again. Presently the king would arrive, solitary and «lone, and the players would begin at the beginning and do the eatire opera over again with only that one individual in the vast solemn theatre for audience. Oape he took an odd freak into his head. High up and out of sight, over the prodigious stage of the court theatre is a maze of loterlacinff water-pipes, so pierced that in case of lire, innumerable little thread-like streams of water can be osnsed to descend ; and in case of need, this dis- charge can be augmented to a pouring flood. American managers might make a note of that. The King was sole audience. The opera proceeded, it was a piece with a storm in it ; the mimic thunder began to mutter, the mimic wind began to wail and sough, and the mimio rain to patter. The Kiog'e interest rose higher and higher ; it developed into enthusiasm. He cried out, — ' It is good, very good indeed I . Bnt I will have real rain ! Turn on the wAter i ' The manager pleaded for a reversal of the command ; said it would ruin the costly scenery and the splendid .costumes, bnt the king cried,— ' No matter, no matter, I will have real rain ! Turn on the water 1 ' So the real lain was turned on and began to descend in gossamer lances to the mimio flower beds and gravel walks of the stage. The richly-dresv^ actresses and actors tripped about singing bravely and pretending not to mind it. The King was delighted, — his enthusiasm ^rew higher. He cried ont, — ' Bravo, bravo I More thunder t more lightning 1 turn on more rain 1 ' The thunder boomed, the lightning glared, the storm-winds raged, the delnge ponred down. The mimic rc^alty on the stag^ with their soaked satins elinsing to their bodies, slopped n round ankle deep in water, warblinff their sweetest and beet, the fiddlers under the eaves of the stage sawed away for' dear life, with the cold overflow spouting down the back of their neoks, and the dry and happy King sat in his lofty box and wore his gloves to ribbons applauding. ' More yet I ' cried the King ; * more yet, — ^let loose all the thunder, tnrn on all the* water I I will hang the man that raises an umbrella I ' / When this most tremendous and effective Btorm that had ever been produced in any theatre was at last over, the king's appro* bation was measureless. He cried, — ' Magnificent, magnificent 1 Encore ! Do it again 1 ' ^ Bnt the manager succeeded in persuading him to recall the encore, and said the com- pany would feel sufficiently rewarded and complimented in the mere fact that the en- core was desired by his Majeety, withont' fatiguing him with a repetition to gratify their own vanity. Duriug the remainder of the act the lucky performers were those whose parts required changes of dress ; the others were a snaked, bedraggled and uncomfortable lot, but in tha last degree picturoaque. The stage scenery was mined, trap-doors were so swollen that they wouldn't work for a week afterward, the flue costumes were spoiled, and no end of minor damages were done by that remark- able storm. It was a royal idea— that storm— and royally carrird out. But observe tiie modera- tion of the king : he did not insist upon his encore. If he had been a gladsoaw, unre* fleeting American opera-andience, he prob- ably would have had his storm repeated and repeated until he drowned all these people. i • tf*i«' OHAPT£R Xl^. The sammer days ftMtH ttlsMantly in Heidelberg. We had a skiKnl trainer, and under his instructions we were Mlting our legs in the right condition fotr OM contem- plated pedestrian tours ; we were well satis- Bed with the progress which we had made in the German language,* and mere than satis- fied with what we had accomplished in \n. We had had the best instmotors in drawing and painting in Germany — Hammerling, Vo- {|el, MuUer, Diet>;and Schuman.n Hammer- ing taught ns landscape painting, Vogel taught us figure drawing, MuUer taught us to do still-life, and Diets and Schumann gave * See Appendix D for informatten ooncerniBc this fearful tongue. II ifll^ .Q A TRAllP ABROAB. m^ nt a finikhing eonrae in two spMialtiM— bat- tle-pieces and shipwreoks. Whatever I am in Art I owe to these man. I hare some* thing of the manner of each and all of them ; but they all said that I had also a manner of my own, and that it was oonapionoos. They said there was a marked individuality alH>ut my stylo— iniomuoh ihat if I ever painted the oommoneat type of a dog, I should be sure to throw a something into the aspect pf that dog which would keep him from being mis- taken for the creation of any other artist. Secretly I wanted to bdieve all these kind saymgs, but I oonld not; I was afraid that m^ masters' partiality for me, and pride in me,bi- ased their judsment. So I resolved to make a test. Privately, and unknown to any one, I painted my great picture, ' Heidelberg Castle Illuminated,' — my first really important work in oils, — and had ithung up in the midst of a wilderness of oil pictures in the ArtEz> hibitioD, with no name attached to it. To my great gratification it was instantly recog- nized aa mine. All the town flocked to see it, and people even came from neighbouring localities to visit it It made more stir than any other work in the Exhibition. But the most gratifying thing of all, was, that chance ■krangers passing through, who had not heard of my picture, WM>e not only drawn to it, as by a iMMiatone, the moment they entered the gallery, but always took it for a 'Turner.' Mr. Harris was graduated in Art about the same time with myself, and we tooka studio together. *Ve waited awhile for some orders; then as time began to drag a little, we eon- duded to make a pedestrian tour. After much consideration we determined on a trip up tke shores of the , beautiful Neokar to Heilbronn. Apparently nobody bad ever done that. There were mined caatlea on the overhanging clifFa and crags all the way ; these were said to have their legends, like those on the Rhine, and what was better still, they had never been in print. There was nothing in the books about that lovely region ; it had been neslected by the tourist, it waa virdn soil for the literary pioneer. Meantti|i| the knapsacks, the rough walk- ing suits and the stout walking shoes which we had ordered, were finished and broufht tons. A Mr. X. and a young Mr. Z. had agreed to go with ni. We went around one evening and bade good-bye to our friends,and afterwards had a little farewell banquet at the hotel. We gpt to bed early, for we wanted to make an earlv start, so as to take advantage of the eeol oithe morning. We were o«t of bad at break of day,feeling fresh and vigorous, and took ahear^ break- fMt, then plunged down through Ihefeafy ar- cades of the Castla grounds, toward tiM town. What a ^doriow nimmar morning it was, and how the Bowers did pour o«l their fragrance^ and how the birds did sing I It was just the time for a tramp through the woods and mountains. We were all dressed alike : bioad slouoh hats, to keep the sun off ; gray knapsacks ; blue army shirts; Uue overalls; leathern gaiters buttoned tight from knee down to ankle ; high-quarter coarse ihoea anugly laced. EiMjh man had an opera glass, a can* teen, and a guide-book case slung over hia shoulder, and carried an alpea-stock in one hand and a sun umbrella in the other. Around our hats were wound many folds of soft white muslin^ with tke ends hapging and flapping down our backs — an idea brought from the Orient and used by tourists all over Europe. Harris carried the little watoh-Uke machine called a 'pedometer,* whose office is to keep count of a man's stepa and tell how far he has walked. Everybody atopped to ad- mire our costumes and give us a hearty : ' Pleasant march to you !' When we got down town I feund that w« could go by rail to within five miles of Heil- bronn. The train was just starting, so we jumped aboard and went tearing away in Slendid spirits. It was agreed all around at we had done wisely, because it would be just as enjoyable to walk down the Neckar as up it, and it could not be needful to walk both ways. There were some nice Qerman people m our compartment. I got to talking some pretty private matters pre- sently, and Hams became nervous ; so he nudtsed me and said, — * Speak in German— these Germans may understand Enijliah.' I did so, and it was well I did : for it turn- ed out that there was not a Gorman in that party who did not understand English per fectly. It is curious how wide-spread our language is in Germany. After a while some of those folks got out and a German pentlemen and his two young daughters got in. I spoke in German to one of the latter several times, but without result Finally she said; — ' 'Ich verstehe nUr Dutch uad Englische,' — or words to that effect That is, 'I don't understand any language but German and Engliah.' And sure enough, not only she but her father and sister spoke English. So after that we had all the talk we wanted ; and we wanted a goed deal, for they were very agreeable people. They wero grMtly inter^ ested in our costumes ; espeoiaiiy the alpen- stocks, for they had not seen any before. I very lirty and Ive hun >wer, 1 lore thi kketch of briginal mm mmmm u hpparei not DO ma ed him so I tho I compel of view ; i from aboi^ observe t This barn Near at three cros things, be two thie< court coat century, i the excep Weha( garden be iog the : went to b got up abi on ourjpai at the gat sant's earl of cabbag and draw donkey y alow cone before dai aeven. We atu the famo fixhter, G be got nu or Heilb fifty and and 1 000 slii^i^tewsiwiiis*'-- A TfiAMP ABROAD. 27 rhey Mid that the N«ok«T road wm perfect- ly level, ao we mast be going to Smtzerland ir acme other rogBed oonntry ; and asked as \t we did not find the waUdng pretty fa- igning in saoh warm weather, fiat we said 10. We reached Wimpfen->I think it was rimpfen — in about three honr«, and got |oab, not the least tired , found a sood hotel ad ordered beer and dinner, — ^tnen took a all throngh the venerable old village. It I very piotares^ae and tumble-down, and Jrty and interesting. It had q^peer houses Ive Hundred yean old in it^ and a military ower, 115 feet high, whioh had stood there Dre than ten oenturies. I made a little iketch of it. I kept a oopy, but gave the iiiginal to the Burgomaster. I think the Inal was better uian the eojpy, because it more windows in it and the grass stood ;p better and had a brisker look. There '$M none around the tower thoagh ; I com- ~ the graM myself, from studies I made afield oy Heidelberg in Hammerling's time. The man on top, looking at the view, is kpparently too large, but I found he could not M made smaller, oonvenientl]^. I want- ed h&n there, and I wanted mm visible, so I thought out a way to manage it ; I composed the picture from two points of view ; tiie sptotator is to observe the man from about whore that flag is, and he must observe the tower itself from the ground. This harmonizes the seeming discrepancy. Near an old Cathedral, under a shed, were three croaaes of stone— mouldy and damaged things, bearing lifeaize atone fionres. The two thieves were dressed in the fanciful court costamea of the middle of the sixteenth eentury, while the Saviour was nude, with the exception of a cloth arannd the loins. We had dinner under the oreen trees in a garden belonging to the hotel and overlook- ing the Nedcar ; then, after a smoke^ we went to bed. We had a refreshing nsp, then got up about three in the afternoon and put on onrjpanoply. Am we tramped gaily oat at the gate of the town, we overtook a pea* sant's eart, partly laden with odds and ends of cabbages and similar vegetable rubbish, and drawn by a small cow and a smaller donkey yoked toother. It was a nretty alow concern, but it got us into Heilbrunn before dark— five miles, or possibly it was seven. We stopped at the very same inn which the famous old robber, ]LBi}{ht and rough f^xhter, Gotz von Berliohingen, abode in after be got not of c«ptivity in the Square Tower of Heilbronn netween three hundred and fifty and four hundred years ^ifp, Harris and I oooapied the same room which he had occupied, and the same paper had not all peeled off the walls yet. The furniture was quaint old carved stuff, fully four hundred years old, and some of the smelis were over a thonsand. There was a hooli in the wall, which tbe landlord said the terrific old Ootz used to hang his iron hand on when he took it off to go to bed. This room was venr large— it might be oalled immense— and it was on the first floor ; whioh means it was in the second storey, for in ISurope tha honaee ara so high that tiiey do not count the first storey, else they would get tired climbing before they got to the top. The wall paper was a fiery red, with huge gold figures in it, well smirched by time^ audit covered all the doors. These doors fitted so anugly and continued the figares of tiie paper so nu-« brokenly, that when they were closed one had to 00 feeling and searching along the wall to find them. There was a stove in the corner— one of thoae ta'l, square, stately white porcelain things that looks like a monument, and keeps you thinking of death when ^ou ought to be enjoying yonr travels. The windows looked out on a Tittle alley,and over that into a stable and some ponltiy and pig yards in the rear of some tenoment houses. There were the onstomary tw<« beds in the room, one in one end of i^ the other in the other, about an old-fashioned brass- mounted, single-barrelled pistol shot apart They were fully as narrow as the usual Ger- mau bed. too, and had the German bod's ineradicable habit of spilling the blankets on the floor every time yon forgot yourself and went to sleep. A ronnd-table as large as King Arthur's stood in the centre of the room ; while the waiters were getting ready to serve our din- ner on it we ul went out to aee the renowned dock on the front of the municipal build- ings. ,,,,, CHAPTER Xa ■'W&"^ The Rathhans, or munici^ bnildinp, ia of the quaintest and most picturesque Mid- dle-Age architecture. It has a massive portico and steps before it,, heavily balns- traded, and adorned with Ufe-sise rusty iron knights in complete armour. The elook-faoe on the front of tbe building is very large and of carious pattern. Ordinati* ly a gilaed angel strikes the hour on a big bell with a hammer ; as the striking ceases, a life*Bize figure of Timd ariaea its honr- gUiS and turns it ; two golden raBts|advanee fcna butt each other ; a gilded cock Ufts its winga; but the main featurea aira two great aagela, wh6 stand on each side of the dial with long horns at their lips ; it wsa In A TBAMP ABROAD. •aid that they blew melodioM bUete on theie horni every hour, — bat they did not do it for ni. We were told'Uter thetthey blew only at night when the town was liilL Within the lUthhans were a namber of hnge wild boan' heads, preaatved, and mounted on braokete along the wall ; they bore inioriptiona telling who killed them, and how many hundred yean ago it was done. One room in the baQding was deroted to the preservation of anoietft archives. There they showed as no end of i^ed doouraents ; some were signed by Popes, some by Tilly and other great Generals, and one was a let- ter written and anbsoribed by Gotz von Berliohingen in Heilbronn in 1619 just after his release from the Sqoare Tower. This fine old robber-knight ^as a devout- ly and sincerely religions man, hospitable, charitable to the poor, fearless in fight, active, enterprising, and possessed of a large and generous nature. He had in him a quality which was rare in the rough time, — the qasHty of being able to overlook moder- ate injuries, and of oeing able to forgive and forget mortal ones as soon as he had soundly trouDCcd the authors of them. He was prompt to taks up any poor devil's quarrel and risk bis neck to right him. The com- mou folk held him dear, and his memory is still green in ballad and tr^ition. He a«cd to go on the highway and rob rich Wotyfarers ; and other times he would swoop dowu from his high castle on the bills of the Neukar and capture passing cargoes of merohaudize. In his memoirs he piously thanks the Giver of all Good for remember- ing him in his needs and delivering sundry snob cargoes into his hands at times when ouly special providence could have reliev- ed him. Be was a doughty warrior and fouada deep joy in battle. In an assault upon a stronghold in Savaria when he was only twenty-three years old, his right hand was shot a^ftyi bat he was so interested in the fight that he did not observe it for a while. He said th4t the iron hand which was made for him afterward, and which he wore for mere than half a oentary, was nearly as \ clever a member as the fleshy one had been. >' I was glad to get a fao-simile of the letter written by this fine old German Robin Hood, though I was not able to read it. He WAS a better artist with his sword than with h<8 pen. We went down by the river and saw tie Squre Tuwer. It was a venerable stiuo.ure, v^ry streng, and very nnorna' neuial. There was no opening near the ({1. u.J. They had to use a ladder to get into it, nodenbt We visited the prinoipal churoh, also, — * curions old straotuM, with a tower-like spire adorned with all sorts (rf grotesque imagea. The inner walls of the ohnroh were placard- ed with lame mural tablets of copper, bear- ing engraved insoriptions celebrating the merits ef old Heilbronn worthies of two or three centuries ago, and also bearing rudely painted effigies of themselves and their families tricked oat in the queer ooatumes of those days. The head of the family satin the foreground, and beyond him extended a sharply receding and diminishiiig row of (ions ;^aoug him sat his wife, andlMyond her extended a long row of diminishing daughters. The family was usually large, but the perspeotive bad. Then we hired the hack and the horse- whioh Gotz von Berliohingen used to use, and drove several miles into the country to visit the place called Weibertreu— Wif^a Fidelity, I suppose it means. It was a fen* dal castle of the Middle Ages. When we reached its neighbourhood we found it was beautifully situated, but on top of a monn^ or hill, round and tolerably steep, and aboafc two hundred feet high. Therefore, as th* sun was blazing hot, we did not climb up there but took the place on trust, and observed it from a distance while the horse leaned «p against a fence and rested. The place has no interest except that which is lent by its legend, whioh is a very pretty one— to tUi effect: i. v.**..,,- ,:,u TBK LIOBND. .*< I In the Middle Ages, a couple of yonhg! dukes, brothers, took opposite sides in one of the wars, the one fighting for the Emper- or, the other against him. One of them owned the castle and village on top of tiie mound which I have been speaking of, and in his absence his brother oame with his knights and soldiers and be^ipA a siege. It was a long and tedious business, for the people made a stubborn and faithful defence, cut at last their supplies ran out and starva- tion began its work ; more fell by hnnger than by the missiles of the enemy. TStj by and by surrendered, and begged fur charitable terms. But the beleaguring prino6 was so incensed ag^inttt them for their long resistance that he said he would spare none but the women and children — all the men should be put to the sword without ex- ception, and all their goods destroyed. Then the women oame and fell on their knees and begged for the lives of their husbands. ' No,' said the prince, ' not • man of them shall escape alive ; jroa yourselves, shall go with your children into house* iaii and friendless banishment ; but that yoa year. ■BHW^^^^^^^ |iig;:~|i«.t.iBa»«Wli^ / - 1 < tf I ▲ TRAMP ABKuAU. 2d BMy not starve I grant yoa this one oraoe, that each woman may bear with her from thia place at mnoh of ner moat valnable pro* perty as she ia able to oany. ' Very well, presently the gatea swnng open and out filed those women carrying their husbands on their shoaldera. The besiegers, farinas at the trick, rashed forward to slaughter the men, but the i)ake stepped be* twecn them and said : — 'No, pat ap yoar aworda,— a prinoe's word is inviolable/ When we got bMk to the hotel. King Arthur's Round Table was ready for oa in its white drapery, and the head waiter and hia first assistant, in swallow-tails and white e/avAts, brought in the aoup ard the hot plates at once. Mr. X. had ordered the dinner, and when the wine came on, he picked up a bottle, glanood at the label, and then turned to tbo grave, the melancholy, the aepulohral head> waiter and said it was not the sort of wine he had asked for. The head waiter picked up the bottle, cast his underlaker 'It is true; I beg pardon.' Then ho turned on his subordinate and calmly said, 'Bring another label. ' At the same time he alid the present label off with his hand and laid it aside ; it had been newly put on, its paste was still ^vet. When the new label came, he put it on ; our French wine being now turned in German wine, according t) desire, the head waiter went blandly about his other duties, as if the working of thia sort of miracle was a common ana easy thing to him. Mr. K. said he had not known before that there were people honest enough to do this miracle in public, but he was aware that thousands upon thousands of labels were im- ported into America from Europe every year, to enable deiders to furnish to their customers in a quiet and inexpensive way, all the different kinds ef foreign wines they might require. We took a turn round the town, after din- npi and found it fully as interesting in the moonlight aa it had been in the day time. The Streets were narrow and roughly paved, and there was not a sidewalk or a street- lamp anywhere. The dwellings were cen- turies old, and raat enough for hotels. They widened all the way ap ; the atories pro- jected farther and farther forward and aside as they ascended, and the long rows of lighted windows, filled with little bits of panes, curtains with figured white muslin and adorned outside with boxes of flowers, ma()o a perfect effect. The moon was bright, and the light ahadow very strong ; and nothing eoald be more piotnresqus than those curving streala, with their rows of huge high gables laaning far orer toward oaoh other im a fnaBdly goasipiog way, and theerowdt Imi1o«( drift- ing through the alternating blotaol gloom and mellow bars of moonlight. Neaily every- body waa abroad, chatting, singing, romping, or massed in lazy comfortable attitadaa m the doorwaya. In one place there waa a public building whioh was fenced about with a thick, rost^ chain, which sagged from post to post in a auooession of lotr awiogs. The pavement, here, waa mad* of heavy blocks of stone. In the glare of, the moon a party of barefooted children Hieve swing- ing on those chains and having a n^y good time. They were not the first ones who had done that ; even their greac-great-grand-. fathers had not been the firdt to do it when they were children. The strokes of the bare feet had worn grooves inches deep in the stone flags ; it had taken many gene- rationa of awingiug children to accomplish that. Everywhere in the town were the mould and decay that g»with antiquity and evidence it; but I do not know that anything else gave ua so vivid a sense of the old ago of Heilbronn aa those footworn grooves iu the pavibg stones. CHAPTER XIII. When we gob back to the hotel I wound and set the pedometer and put it in my pocket, for I was to carry it next day and keen record of the miles we made. The worlL which we had given the inRtrnnient to do during the day which had juat closed, had not fatigued it perceptibly. We were iu bed by ten, for we wanted to be up and away on our tramp homeward with the dawn. I hung fire, but Harris went to bleep at once. I hate a man who goes to sleep at once ; there is a sort of inde- finable something about it whioh is not ex- actly an insult, and yet ia an insolence ; and one whioh is hard to bear, too. I lay there fretting over this injury, and trying to go to sleep : but the harder I tried, the wider awake I grew. I got to feeling very lonely in the dark, with no company but an undi- gested dinner. My mind got a start by and-by, and began to consider the beginning of every subject which has ever been thought of ; but it never went further than the beginning ; it was touch and go ; it fled from topic to topic with a frantie speed. At the end of an hour my head was in a perfect whirl and I was dead tired, fagged out. The fatigue M'aa so great that it pressntly began to make some head against the nerv- (injii|-l^-vii|i:„i|i4 .«'■ Jj. ir . 30 A1 A TRAMP ABROAD. ¥ ;* ff "Mil li w cms exoit«meat; while imAfpaiDg mytelf wid* •wtkke,! woald really doM iotomomenUTy an* ooatoioiMBMifUid oome loddenly oat of them with ft phyiioid jerk whioh nearly wreaohed my joint! ftMit— the delneion of theinttaat being that I wae tumbling backwards OTtr a prenpioe. After I had Allen over eight or nine predpioea and thai fonnd oat that one< half M my brain had been aaleep eight or nine times without the wide-awake, hard- working other half inipeoting it, the periodi* od aaeomoieaeneaees began to extend their •peUgradaallyoyermoreofmybrain.trvTitory, and M laatj eank into a drowee whioh grew deeper and deeper and was donbtleis jut on the teiy point of beooming a solid, bieased, dreamless stapor, when, — ^what was that? My dolled faoalties dragged themseWes partly baok to life and took a reoeptive attitodes. Now ont of an immense, a limitiess distance, came a some- thing whioh grew and Rrew, and approached, and presently was recognisable as a sonnd— it had rather seemed to be a feeling, before. This sound was a mile away, .uuvr— perhaps it was the marmnr of a storm; and BOW it was nearer — not a quarter of a mile away ; was it the muffled rasping and ((rinding of distant machinery ? No, it came Mtill nearer ; was it the ftieasored tramp of a marching troop T But it came nearer still,and still nearer — and at las^ it was right in the room : it was merely a mouse gnawins the wood-work. So I bad held my breath all that time for such a trifle. Well, what was done oould not be helped ; I would go to sleep at onoe and make up the lost time. That was a thoughtless thought Without intending it— hardly knowing it— I fell to listening intently to that sound, and even nnoonscionsly counting the strokes of the mouse's nutmeg-grater. Piresently I was deriving exquisite suffering from this em- ployment, yet maybe I couul have endured It if the mouse had attended steadily to his work ; but he did not do that ; he stopped every now and then, and I suffered more while waiting and listening for him to begin again thsn I did while he was gnawing. Along at first I was mentally offering a re- ward of five — six— seven— ten dollars for tiiat mouse ; but toward the last I was offer- ing rewards whioh were entirely beyond my means. I olose-reefed my ears — ^that is to say, I bent the flaps of them down and furled them into five or six folds, and pressed them against the hearing-orifice — but it did no good: the faculty was so sharp, ened by nervous excitement that it waa be* oome a microphone and could hear through the overlays without trouble. My anger grew to frenzy. I finally did what all persons bafora ma have done dear baok to Adam— rssolvsd to throw somothing. I lesched down and opt my walking shoss, then sat np in bed and listened, in order to axaotly looate the noise Bat I couldn't do it ) it was as anlooataUa as a cricket's noise ; and whera one thinks that that is, is always tha vary plaoe whera it isn't So I prssenUy hurled a shoe at random, and with a vicious vigour. It strook the wall over Hsrris's hsad and hH down on him ; I had not imagined I oould throw so far. It woka Harris, and I was glad of it nntil I fonnd he was not angry ; tiien I was sorry. He soon went to deep again, whioh pleasad ma ; bat straightway the mouse mguk amin, whioh roused my temper onoe more. I did not want to wake Harris a second time, but the gnawing con- tinned until I waa compelled to throw the other shoe. This time I broke a mirror — therowan two in the room— I got the largest one, of course. Harris woke agdn, but did not oomptun, and 1 was sorrier than ever. I resolved that I would suffer dl posd- bletorturo beforol would disturb lum a third time. Tha mouse eventaally retired,and by and by I was sinking to deep, when a dock be« gan to strike ; 1 coonted, till it was done, and was about to drowse soain when another dock began ; I counted ; then the two great Hathhaus dock angels began to send forth soft, rich, mdodious blasts from their long trnmpets. I had never heard anything tiiat was so lovdy, or wdrd, or mysterious— but when they got to blowing tiie quarter- hours, they seemed to me to be overdoing the thing. Every time I dropped off for a moment, a new noise woke me. Each time I woke I missed by coverlet, and had to reach down to the floor and get it agun. At lastdl deepiness forsooF me. I re- cognized the feot that I was hopelessly and permanently wide awake. Wide awake and feverish and thirsty. When I had lain toss- ing thero as long as I could endure it, it oc- curred to me that it would be a good idea to dresa and go out in the great squaro and take a refreshing wash in the fountain, and smoke and rofleot thero nntil the romnant of the night was gone. I believed I could dress in the dark with- out waking Harris. I had banished my shoes after the mouse, but my slippers would do for a summer night. So I rose softly, and gradually got on everything— down to one sock. I couldn't seem to get on the track of that sock, any way I oould fix it But I had to have it ; so I went down on my hands and knees, with one slipper on and the ether in my hand, and began to paw gently iPlgllPPPpPpPPM i:fe^t!ffi«lB*t';' f!'«p . ^AV Jy ««■« Yt*"t^ TRAAffP ABROAD. if 9 done oImt < row Mmething. walking shoai, id, in order to 1 1 oonldn't do irloket'i noiio ; it ii, ii always SoIpreMntly with m vioiona I wall over im on him ; Doald throw and I was m not angry ; went to ueep it straightway Bh ronsed my I want to wahLe > gnawing oon- to throw the ce a mirror — m — I got the s woke again, 'as sorrier than raffer all poasi- irb him a third d,and by and tn a olook bO' it was done^ when another the two ffreat to (lend forth >m their long nything that vterioas— bTit the quarter* be overdoing tped off for a Each time let, and had get it again. me. I re- ipeleasly and le awake and lad Iain toss- nre it, itoc- t good idea square and »antain, and e remnant of dark with- led my shoes 8 would do softly, and own to ono the track of But I had my hands n and the paw gently aroond and rake tha floor, bat with ao sno- oeis. I enlarged mjr drale^ and went on pawing and raking. With eTWj preerare of my kne^ how the floor ereaked 1 and every time X ohanoed to rtk* against any artioleb it seemed to give onl thvty-flve or thirty the turns, 'he river is not always ailowe'l l-: spread over ite whole bed — ^whioh is m ;nuoh m SO, and BometimM 40 vards wide — ba^> is split into three equal bodiM of water, by stone dykee whioh throw the main volume, depth, and onrrent, into the central one. In low water theM neat narrow edged dykes project four or five inches 8bove the snrfaoe, like the oomb of a submerged roof, but in high water they are overllor'ecl, A hatfnll of rain makes high water in tk ) Neckar, and a bMketfull producM an cverf.ow. There arc dykes abreMt the SohlossHotel, and the current is violently swift at that point. I used to sit 'for hours in my glass cage, watohing the long, narrow rafts slip along through the central channel, grazing the right-bank dyke and aiming carefully for the mitidle arch of the etone bridge below ; I watched them in this way, and losb all this time hoping to see one of them hit the bridge-pier and wreck itself sometime or other, but wm always disappointed. One WM smashed there one morning, but I had just stepped into my room a moment to light my pipe, eo I lost it. While I was looking down npon the rafts that morning in Heilbronn, the dare-devil spirit of adventure came suddenly upon me, and I said to my ooniiadea : — ' I am going to Hei» A TBAIIP ABROAD. •^ nHa were lit the orook- >«M of the to 100 ysrda id from a 9- l-I»g breadth I»rt of the > • pole ; the oom for only logi are not 3^oong lady's Mvenl MO- •nt, §o that •ny eort of le nver. * M narrow ron it, if he 7 curved in to do lome t the tame. '■' spread over h OB 90, and m iplitinto ■tone dykes depth, and 1 low water projeot four ve, like the hi^h water rain makes i basketfuU UoasRotel, rift at that in my glass r rafts slip ael, grazing are/uJly for ige below j losii all this !m hit the tnetime or ted. Oue but I had nt to light I the rafts dare-devil upon me, raft. Will they as. ey could, —thought 1 she had d to this, inest raft y ' Ahoy, pleasant business. to fleid- 4berg, and wonld like to take passaoe with bin. I Mid tbia partly throajjh yoaaff Z, who suoko Owmao vety won, aad Partly throogii Mr. X vbo apoko il peculiarly. I eaa nndevatand Usriaaa aa wall as tbo naniao that loveatad i% bat I talk It beat throagb aa ittterprotai; ■ The eaptaia hitohad ap hia tronsars, then •hifted hia qai<1 thoaghtfally. Preaentiv ha ■aid Jott what I waa eipeoting ho would say —that ha had no Uoaaaa to carry passeogera^ and therefore waa afraid the law would be after hiin in oaao tht natter got noised about or any aeoident happened. So I ohurtared the raft aad tha orew and took all the responaibilitioa oa myself. With a rattling sons tM starboard watch bent to their workaaa hova tho cable short* tbeu got tha anchor home, and our bark moved off with a stately stride, and soon waa bowling along at about two kaota aa hour. Our party were grouped aoiidsliipa. At first the talk waa a Uttla gloomy, and ran mainly .upon the sbortacaa of life, the an* oertatatv of it, the perils whioh beset it, aad the need and, wisdom of beiqg always pro* pared for tho worst ) this shadad off into Jow•vc^iced referenoee to tha dangers of the deep, and kindred matters ) but as the uny eaat begaa to rsddea and tha mysterious solsimnity aad silence of tho dawn to give place to the joy>songs of the birds, the talk took a cheerier toacb aad our spirits b^an to rise steadily. Germany, in the summer, ia the perfection of the beautiful, but nobody haa understood and realised, and enjoyed- the utmost possi* bilities of this soft and peaceful beauty ua* less he has voyaged down the Neckar on a raft. The motion of a raft is the needful motion | it 'is ijentU'*, and gliding, and smooth, and noiseless } it cauna down all feverish activities, it aoothea to sleep all nervous hurry and impatience ; under its restful influence all the troublea and veza* tioDS and sorrows that harass the mind vsniah away, andeziatenoe becomes a dream, a oharm, a deep and tranquil eostaoy. How it contrasts with hot and perspiring pedes* trianism, and duaty and deafening railroad rush, and tedious jolting baaind tired horses over blinding white roads I We went slipping ailently alone, between the green and fragrant banks, with a sense of pleasure and contentment that grew, and gruw, all the time. S tmetimes the banks were overhung, with thick masses of willows that>iholly hid the ground behind : some* tiinea we had noble hills on one hand, clothed densely with foliage to tbo top*, and oa the other l^and qpea levels blazing witli poppies, or clothed ia the rich L of tho oora flower ; sometimes wo drifteti n tha shadoi^ ol forests, aad samollans sl< g tho margia of long strstchei d( yeltiitjr gi-aan relssa eh arm frssh and groaa aad bright, a tlrelssa v—.tu to the oyo. Aad tho birds t— thev were oyorywhoro} they swept back and forth aeross tho nver ooastaatly. aad their jabi> laat nunie was aovor stLled. It was a deep aad satisfying pleasflN to aeo tho sun oreata the aow moraiaii, and gradn* ally, patiently, lovingly, clothe it on with spfeadonr after sploodoor, and glory after glory, till tho miraelo waa oomplete. How diffe- rent IS thia marvel obeortod from a raft from what it is when oao obsiryea it through the dingy windows of a railway statloa ia some wretched yiUago while he muochea a petri> fled aaadwiflh aad w*ita for the traia. CHAPTER Xy. sowir tHB Biym. Men and women and eattlo were at work in tho dewy flelda hj this time. The penple often stepped aboard the raft, aa wa glided along the grasay shores^ and goasipcd with us and with the orew for a hundred yards or so* then stopped ashore again, refrcahed by the ride. Only tho men did this ; tbo .women were too busy* Tho women do all kinda of work on the oontineni Thev dig, they hoe, they Swp, they sow, they bear monatrona bur- ena on their backs, they shove similar ones long distaaors on wheelDarrows^ tney drag tha cart when there is no dog or lean cow to drag at— and when tho:e is, they assist the dog or cow. Age is no matter— tho older the woman, the stronger she is, apparently. On the farm a woman'a dutiSa afe not do* fined — she does a little of everything ; bnt in the towns it is different, there sne only does certain things, tho men do the rest. For instance^ a hotel chambermaid hM no- thing to do but make beda and fires in fifty or sii^ty rooms, bring towels and candles, and fetch aeveral tons of water up several flights of stairs, a hundred ponnda at a time* in prodigious metal pitchers. She does not have to work more than eighteen or twenty hours a day, snd she can al arays get down on her knees and sorub the floors of halls and oloaets when she is tired and needs a rest Aa tho morning advanced and the weather grew hot, we took off our outside clothing aud sat in a row along the edge of the raft and enjoyed the scenery, with our suo um- brellas over our heads and our less dangliog n the water. Every now and then we k mw"' }^'"M '^ ^ m^ n '^f A TRAM^ AUnOAD. phn|«d la ftod htd » iwlm. Ertfj |>ro* JaotipM grMay MR* ti»d iU Joynat pMi|^ of n«k«(l opq^rtn, to* boyt to thonmlvM mA fbhfl girfi to thtmtoWti, tho Uittit orattl/ iii o«r« of •am* mothtrly dAma who wt iti tho nhikfto of A trto with hor knitting. Tho liitia bnya »w»m ot|l to ni, tomlittraM, but thfllittlo ikaMi fHU^ kdoo cf««b ia tho wftt«r Mtijl Ftnppfd. tl^ir i^lMiiltt| tad frwliuktng to iuipeot in* t$Xi wil;h thoir itroo> oint •>•■ M U arlft(>d by. Onoo WO tuntod • oornt r landonljr Md ikttrpriiod « tlonder , girl o{ twclvo ]ra«r« or tapwA^A< Juit kt*p>- |iing into th« WAtor, Sho bad not time lo run, bat iho did «^M MaW^i'od jtaat m w^Ilt ■h« pronptly di^w » NtU«i' younn wHiow bough athwart %m whfto body ^ith blio h»n(i, •ndtho&contoiAffliktadai ^ith » dm- pie ftod anitrotthUd intei'^iit Thni the etood while we glided by. ^h« wai a pretty preature, and ehe aud het Willow bough maiie b very pretty piotute, and one which oonld aniiig by, we perceived the seoret of her moving iiupnlea. She did uot drive herself up |he river with paddlee or propeller, she pntled her«elf by hanting ou a great chain, Thie chain is laid in the bed of the river, and ia only faatened at the two ende. It ia eeventy milee long. It oomee in over the boat'e bow, pasaee aroond a drum, aud is payed out astern. She palls on that chain, and eo dregs h<>reelf ap the rtvur or down it. She hak neither bow nor etem. strietiv speaking, for ehe bssalongit bladed raddev on each eod • and ehe never tQms aronnd. She nsee both roddere all tlie time, and they are powerfirf enoagh to ehebje he^ tb torn teethe right or the left knd steer aroond etfrvee, in spite of the etrpng reiletanoe of the rihaio. J ««ald not bavb believed thak' that impbeeit4e thins eould bedrtnei hot T eaw it done, aiM thlirefore I know that tbero' is one impoeei* ble thing whioh can bodoao, What nuraole will man attempt oekt T We met nifeny big keel boat* on their way ^p, nting saila, mule power, aod prefanity-*. a tedious and lahorieve baiioeis. A wire rope le$) from the forelnp meet to the file of males on the tow«patti a hondred yarde ahead, aod by dint of raaoh banging and swearing and urging, the detaehmaot of drivers managed to get a nieed of two or three miles an boar oat of the mulee againet the stiff oqrrent. , The Neokar has alwaya been ased ae a'Siahal, and thas has given em< ployment to a great many men and animale i hot now that thil eteamboat is able, with a small orew and baehel or so of onal, to take dine ked boats farther op ' 4he river in one hoar than thirty men and thirty Uiiiles oan do it in two, itie believed that the old-fashioned towing induttry is on ite d«sth-bed« A so. oond steamboat beg^n work in the heoknr three months after the first one waa pot in service. At noon, we stepped aaboro and booght some bottled beer and got some ohiokene oooked, while the raft waited ; then we im< mediately pat to eea again, and had onr din> ner while the beer was ooid and the ohick<*ne hot. There is no pleasenter plaee for snob a meal than a raft that ie gliding down the winding Neekar, past green meedowe and wooded hilla, and alomh^ring Viltagee, aod craggy heighte graeed with erumbliog towers and battlements. In one place in saw a B*oely-dreeeed Ger- man gentleman without any spectaolea. Be* fore I could eemo to anchor he bad got away. It was a great pity. I so waoted to make a sketch o? him. The captain com* foried me for lay loee, however, by eaying that the man was witboot any doiibt a fraud, who had speotadee, but kept them in hie pocket in order io make himself tispicuous. Below Haaeinerheim we peesed Hombers, Gots von Beriiehingen'e old caatle. ft stands on a bold elevation '200 feet ahova the anrface of the river ; it baa high vine-clad walls eneloeinK tree*, and' a peaked tower about about 78 feet high. The eteep hilU side, from the cutle clear down to the water's edge, is terraced, and clothed thick with grape vinex Tliis is like faming a ■BH^^^^*"^ $^ A TBAMP ABROAD. Z5 mtnitrd roof. All the pirt of th« riret which ■tMp« Along fnrntih lh« thftt proptr Mpoaare, are rri*«n op to th« uttpx lb* rt* giou <■ • great proflauer of Rhine winee. The Uermankere exoerdinffljfonilof Rhine winee; they ere pnt u p in tell, elender bottlee, end •re cnn«tdt>r«d \ pleeiant bererage. One tttlli thorn from vinegnrby the label. The Ilnrnhorg hill ia to be tnnnelled, and the naw railway will paaa under thaoaatlaw ! ■ "* uld op- pose her no longer ; flhe mixht marry whom ahe would. The muntba dragged OQ, all hope foisuok th« old man, be ooased from hia oas* tomary pdrsuita and p eaanrea, he devoted himi^f to pioaa worka, and longed for the deliv^anceof death. Now just at midnight, every night, tho lost ha > ess .stood in the mouth of her cave, arra}tiii inwhite robes, and sang a little love ballftil which her Ormaoer had made for her. She judged that if hecaanehome alive the superstitious peasants would tell himtbput the ghost that sang in the cavo, and that aa soon aa they d. scrib d the ballad he would know that nope but he and she knew that song, tlierefore he would ruapect that she was alive, and would como and find her. Aa tiaw want on, tha paopla of tha region became sorely distreaaed aoont tha Spectra oi tha Haunted OaTa^ It waa aaid that ill lack of one kind or Mother always overtook any ene who had tha miafof tune to hear that aenf. Eventually, every oalamity tb'.t hap< pened thereabovta waa laid at the doer of that maaio. Oonaequently no boatman would oonsent to pasa the eava at night i tha p«as« anta ahnnnad tha plaaa, even ia the day time But the faithful girl aanff on, nl^ht after night, month after month, and patiently waited ; her reward nnat oome at laat Five yeaia dragged by, and atill, every night at midnii{ht, the pladotiva tonea floated out over the ailent land, while the distant boat- men and peasanta thrust their fingers into thoir ears and ahcddered out a pk-ayer. And now cama the Crusader bopia. bronz' ed and b&ttle scarred, but bringing k great aud aplendiJ fame tolav at the feat of hia biida. The oil! Lord of Bomber^ received him aa a aon, and wanted him to stay by him and be the comfort and blessing of his age ; but the tale of that youug girl's devotion to him and ita pathetic cousequences, made a changed man of the knight. He oouU not enjoy his we)l*earned rtst. He aaid hie heart waa broken, be would give the remnant of hia lifo to high deeda in tho cause of hu- manity, and ao iiud a worthy death aud a blessed reuuion with the bravo^ true heart whose love had mora bonuured h m than all hia viotoriaa in war. When the people heard tbia raaolve of hitr they oame aud told him there waa a pitiiesa diagoD in human disguiaa in the Haunted Cave, a dread creature which no knight bad vet been bold enough to faoe, and begged him to rid the laud of ita desolating presence. Me aaid lia would do it^ Tbay told faim about the' aong, and when he aaked what song it waa, they aaid tha n^mory of it waa Sue, for nobody bad been hardy enough to t^n to it for the paat four yeara and more. Towarda midnight the (.irusader oania floating down the river in a boat, with hia trusty oruss-bow in hia bands. He drifted sileuiiy throuxh the dim rcfleotiona of the crai<8 aud treea, with hia intent eyes fixed upon the low cliff which he was approaching. As bo drew near be discerned the black m >utli of the cave. Now,— is that a white ttgure T Yea. The plaintive son^ begins to wtll forth aud .float away over meadow and river — thf> orosa-bow ia alowly raiaed to posit on, a steady aim is taken, the bult fliea straight to the mark— the tigure sioka down, ttill ttioging, the knight takes thi wool out of bis eara, and reoogoixea the old ballad— l! |l '! >-*{• 86 ♦ t' ▲ TRAMP ABROAD. Ill- too Iat« I Ah, if he had only not pst tha WAol ia hii cani 1 The C^utader wtoni^iftWat to the wan •Xaio, Mid pNwfUly Ml 16 battle* ttshUag for tb« Orrat. Tradilien aaya that during aavaral oeoturin the apirit of the unferte- Date girl aaug niHhtly (root the oave at niisibl(4 th^t it is ronoh known in America, else I lAoiild hAve h>»rd ie there. The faut that T never h«ard it there, iacvi denoethat there ara otherl in my oonni.ry who have fared likewise ; therefore, for the sake of these, 1 mean'to print the words and the hiusio in t&is ohnpter. And I will re- freib the reader'a metaory by printing the legend of the L*relei. too. I have it by oih in the ** LegendH i^' the Rhitie," done into EosHah by the wilitly gifted Garnhani, Baohe lor of Artit. I print the leitead partly to re^ fresh my own laemory, too, for 1 have aevei- read it before. Lore, (two svllahleBi.) wM m water nymph who nied-to ait on a high reek ealied Ley or Lei, (prononnoed like oar word lie) in tho Rhine, and Inr^bnatmea todeairuotiou in a farioas rapid whieh maired the ehannel at that tpot. She »» bewitohed them with her pUintive souks and herw<>vderfnl beanty thttt they forgot everything el«s>to (rase np at he't and so they prewntly drifted among the broken reefis and were loat^ In those old, old times, the eonnt Bmno lived ia a grent oastlo near there with his atm the oount Hermann,' a yonth of twent/. Hermann had heard • great deal *l>out the beantiful Lore, and had finally fallen very deeply in love with her without having yet keen her. So he used to wander to tke neij^h* bonrhood of the Lei, . eveoings, with hia ■•Cher and ' Bx|>r«aa bia Leaging iq Lpw Singing." as Qaruham aaya. Qa one of th«»e oooaaions,' *aud«*eeflitad to stoop lov- ini{ly to him and beukon to him in a friendly nmnoer ; lodeed, if hia e«r did not deovive him, ahe oalled his name with unuftr to love. Beside him. s«*if with delight; the youth lost his seuiits and SAiik seuavieMi to the earth.' After that he waa a changed penon. He went dreaming abuut, ihiukiog only of hia fairy aud c«hng for naught else in the world. 'Ihe old. oount aaw with affliction this ehanKement in his son,* whose esuse he coa'd not divine, and tii«d to divert his mind ii»to oh'^rful ohannnla, but to no purpose. Then the old oottut natfd authority^ He c<>m- mended the youth to betake hims«U to the oamp. Obedienoe waapconiaed. Garuham aaya : * It waa on the evening , !Mor«» \n» depar* tuve, as he wi«iheil atill onee to viait the Lei and offtT to the N> mph of tl^e Rhine hie aighs.^the tonea of hia f ither, .and bu songs. He went, iu his boat, tbia time aoeomparied by a faittifiil tquire, down th* atieam. The moon abed her silvery light over the whole Oduntry $the steep bank moantaina appeered ill the most fantaatioal ehapea, and the high ««ks on either aide bonfed tnair brantdiea on llei inavn'a paaaing. Aa sooiiaa hei^proaohed the Lei, and was awareof theaurf-waves, his attendant was aeiaed with %fi inezpreattiltle nuxtety and he begged pennisiion to land ; but the knight swept tha, ptiings of his guitar and aaag: u^^u, :,^ "Once I saw thee In dark atght^ '^" ''*'^' '*'' In Sup rnittaral beauty bright ; ft i«t(rays, was the , Thy 'eyas aweetenohantment. . "'J^'i'- ltatlntc tu me. oh ! entrahoemettt. ^'."^ **0, wert then but mr sweetheart, ^'' ^^^" How willlnt 1y thy love to part I With d llichr I Bhould be bound To thy rovky heuae ia deep ground.* That Bermaon should have gone to that place at ally was not wiae; that be should have gone with such a aoag ai that in hia mouth waa a most aerioas mistake. Tim iiOralei did not "call hia name in uoutterable ■iVS' ,r # ,0 / f ) jt;4 TRAMP ABROAD. S7 iwe«t whUpara ' this tim^. Vtft thalk ionfi natarally worked fn iuAt«nt and thomu^h ' oh«Dg«menfc ' in her;, «nd n«t only thkKbut it stirred tb« bQw«|i| 6t ttie whola afflioted region roimd ftboi^t ib«r*~f6r^ * S«ftro«ly hiA.thn^ tonef iMmided, vffity* wher« there began tamuU And eonodt m if voioee above ecd belqw the w*ter. O4. thp Iiei roae^flaniea, the fairy atnod above, a* that time, and beckoned with he* ri^ht hand olearly and nrgentljr toi thii iofHtttatod Knight, while with a ataff in her left site Qftlled the WAve« to her ^erviee. They bejKan to mount Leaver ward ; the boat waanpaet, .mocking eveny cjtertion i the w«ves roee to the gUQwalo, Ktid splitting nn the hard stones,, the, boat ia^k*. into pieces. The yonth sank intu the depths biit the eqnire wan thrown ^n^H>r« by.a pov^erfnl wave.' The bitterest things have been said about rthe Larelci dnring many^ oentnrit-i*,. but surely, her conduot upon this r^oasioo enti- tlos her to ear respeot. One fefJs drawn tenderly towards her and is moved to forget . hw Wf^J >*>?/"€% and remember only the K09d qead^ uat ^crnwpsd and closed her I,«9rew. o *■ The Fairy iraa never more seen ; bnt her enchanting tonea'have oftw been heard. In the beantiful, refreshing, still niabta of • agflngi when the moon.i^m her silver light over the country, the liete'niivgeiiipper hears from the insbinK of the waves, the cuhnini; clahgnf a woDdMrfnUyolnHrining vwioei which sings a song from ' the crystal castle, and ' wi& aerrowarid fear 'he'tHinksoo the :noniig Ooant Hermann, seduced by the Nymph. " :^ 'Here is the mnsio, and the Oermui words by BeinHck Heine. This song bi»b«f«n n favourite in German f«ir forty years, and will 'rimstin a favonrite always, maybe : I have a prejudice afuinst people who '§rint things lb, a foreign iangasjio uud add no ti^nslation. Wbeu I Am tb'e readier, aud the author considers me ablo to do the trans* lating myself, he psys me quite a nice com* {)1iment-Iibnt if he woaM do the translating or, me I wculd try to get ^lung withoht the eomptiment ^ V. ' ' ' II I were at htm*, tio doubt I conl^ get a traaslatioD of this poem, hut I am abroad and can't ) therefore I will make a trtns- latien myselL It m%y not be a ({'mmI one, fur pestf y is out of my line; but it will servd my purpose — which is, to give the nn-German young girl a jingle of words to hauB the tuue on until she.onn get hold of a good wrKion, made by some one who is a poet and kuows how to convey a poetical thought from one Ua^tUge to Mother. -tL TBB LOBKLEL I oannot divine whaA Itimeanpth. Thm hsmams paneieis pain : A tale of the britone agn* JObpshcopdiac.thMWi^ mr hcaXni ' The faint a^T jgloois In the fftoamtng^ ' ' ' Aitd o«>acetaI il«»ws the niitiMH Tb4 Itt) on blue itr« Her miden iewels srasttininifc ,. Bhw eoml^ h«: Koldon nair ; Ktecnmbs^wlth a ooinb thatis golden, liu Attd sings nwrird rf fi»in .y That ifreeps in a rte-tdlyjenchnntment , 4 Ulie llsiCner^ ravished brain ; {* The denmedt In hie drifting «'haIlop^ Is teanoad with the sad sweet qac^ Be.acies not the y»p^' but is wimld not ansWsr the purpose I gigctten' ed abavoi beuBi{«e the. intamBcis t nobly irregular ; it don't fit the tune snpgly enough i in places it hangs' over < nl the ends too faiv and in ether places it rufl9 oa^ of Samrdh bsfore he gets to< the end of tibo bar* Still, Qnruhani's tranalation hachii^ ^nerita, and I am not dreamiat; of^ leaving it out of my book. I believe this poet is, , wholly un* known in America and l&iigland 1 I take nnenUar pl%a»nre in bringing him fnrward, beiiauael consider that I dMcnvorod him : THE LORELEt ■'.•^ -^ -'i! , tf,t;v tH\ »■'■■■ nuirs|ditnu};BT l. w. OAiufHiL*:, 9 A, TS 'J IdnBOfitatownrbatUslgniaes.,,,, . ^ Ttiut 1 am s^ Mtreuwiiu t A fabie o( old Thues s > t^rrf flm, ' "^ ' LeaV«^ my beattse tboughifuL The Mir Is cooijtad it darkens. And naliitljr llowo thu Hblne: Thosnininii6< the niou" tain htaritens In evening sunshine ilne. 'I The moat beim'irul maldeontrances . ^' A bovo wn^rilel-mily tbire, ~ Her baiUitfut goia<-n aitiru glftnces^i«^!itiJ>tf^ ctoe eombS'hergoldMi hair. A « Xi W ith golden comb so lustrous, . * *^i Anu therehj- • > onrf vings, f** » #'*ft»iAv> It baa « UMa so wondrous, ' i>ii 7v ' Ibat pawwf ul melo^x lingi^ aii^jfm'f^ Thf eh p)r in theUttle iLlf i'Rii>^'iH It eitiiUts wiiii W068BM11 liiht} 'Kvi lit; dudriaots^e.th<*rork cip it«t»v<'r Ue only regardit dreaded height. 'Tfi A TRAMP ABROAD. I bollove thA turbalent waf es I SwoUow at la^t Hhipperand boat ; t 8ho with her Aiowinff- oa«iai> *<>oi«««. I i All My vitit her magis noatik ' ' No ti:>at)Bl*ti4 in their regular order too. There is not a statiatio wantioft. It i« M suooittot ae aa iovoioa. That it tfrhat a translation ought to be ; it should exactly reflect thf thoaght of the originaL< Yo4 can't sing, * Above wottderfolly .there,* be* cause it smply won't go to the tune, with* out damS({fug the linger ; but it is a most clipgihgly exaot- traMlation of Dort oben wnnderbar — fits it like a blister. . Mr. Garn* ham's reprodnot^n has other merits'--a hun^ dred of them— but it is not nt till to the back* ground.' „ , , , ' 8uu^ peasants singing in a oottfge, A woman lets drink a child out of a cup*' * St John's head as a boy painted io fresoo on a brtok. ' ( !4esninic • pH* > * A young man pf th^ Ric^ipr family. Ma hair out off right attthe^nd^dresse;! ii| blaak with the same oap, AttrAOQ^ tp! Raphael, bt^t th9 signation is false. ' 'The Virgin holding the infant Itrrvrf painted in the ihantieAl Snsof^rrti^.' ' ' A larder With g^ehsahd deid gatne'iqik mated by • oook-duud 'anfl tWo ldtobsto> boys.*, , ; •' ■ ■"'■'■^ "" However, thii Eitglilh of this tfataIogni» in at Ifjiist ashappy at thaC which distingmsKes an ios6r{ption ikjl^ba' h ceftaih pibture in Borne— to Wit : * Rnvet4tion«.VieV. $t. John in Pktttt. spn'sWaiidl* " '.J Bat i)o;e«iitime thirkft fiitdoVing on. CHAPTER XVII. A mile or two nbbvii Eb^rbaeh we sitw a peculiar ruin tA-oJebting; iibotri th« foliage u^hioh clothed the peak 6f a hh;h a'hd v«.*ysteOp hill This itiin cdnsisted of l^tlrsly U couple of ernmbllog ihsstiei 6t mas^6bty whidH bora a rude reseinblaAn^S ^ hdnlni fkdes ! th«y leaned forward and touched forehecdt, lifd had th« look of being «bseTbed)in' eooirorsa* tiOB. Thiamin had noilring< vary Imposing of^piotttresqne about it, aoajthars • w-.'^no great HmI nf Hj yet it wtts oalled the * Speo< taeuisvBain^' ^^^ . , . .> The eaptafn of the raft, who was as full of history ns hit could stick, said that in the Middle Ages a most prodigiou'i fir&-bMath* iag dragon used to live in tb«t regioi;, and made move, trouble .Uiab a. tazooUector. Ho was as long as a vatfwny train, «p4 had the customary impenetrable green soales all over him. His breath ^red p<;9ii|enoe' idd con- flagration, and bin »|>petite bred fiimicO. He ate men and cattle impiirtialjy, aa'd wiuiex* ceedingly unpopular. The German emperor of tj^t day made ihe ns^al otf^er » he would grapt to the destrbydr of the dragoii, any one solitary thing be might ask for; for oe had a surpluaMeof daughters, and it wi(t Ons^o* mary for dragbii-killem to take a ditfghter for pay. So the must rdndwned knights oame 'from the four corners of the earth aftd re- tired down the dragon's thrOat one nf cer the other. A paaio arose and spread Heroes grew <)tatiotffl. The piooeepion. ceased. The drssou beOlinie more destrnot< ive than ever. The people lout all hope of sooooui', and fltrtl to th« mountains fot ve< -J I '^:jifmm^''^^''T .■ ^ »»' painted io •) fknil*, his lEapfaa*}, TfTMT gatnrnvk Ktaloffni» M tipgoiahra (>ibttire in n Pktt^. w« a&wa be foficjEa v«.78teip r ii couple ilfdK bora iei : th«y ecd*. Md OftoVera*- Inpoatag « W;»itoo ^e;-*8peo. as fall of tat to the «i-breath- aioc;, Md Qtor. Ho M the I all over tdd con* ice; 6e I w)Mi ex* emperor le y^ould (oit, any 9r^eh*d I oaailb* (itfghter -T »CI;m A TRAMP ABROAD. 99 1^ I ne-from Md re- be nf cer ■pread oeerion. Mtrnot> tiope of f(tt Vt- ^^ At laiit Sir WifteiMohaft, a poov and ob- acure knight; out«i aiar oonntr^, arrived to do battle yrich the snonaten A ; pitiable 0{b< jebt he was, witfa ,,hia armour' haofUigiip ragaabent bica, andbis etrangealtapedlrnaD- eaok itrbpped upon bis baotu > ETetybooy tUTned xkp their aeiei a1> 3iiin,,and aoims openly jeered biirp i BoCfhe M'«e e aim. itfi Sfinply et)qnired if the. eaipoHnr'a offer wait still in force. The entperor Said it wa»".^bvpt charitably advised binn to go Vc9« any of thetto heroes men of science t ' Thia iii^iBed a laiigb, in tbosa'dkjrii. But the tramp was not in the least ruffled. He said be uiighti be a Uttle.in adtancbof bivaga, but nAimatter-^sciqnce wbuld come to M booomedv issme time< or ptbisr. He said bar wonldiaaroh against tbe dragton in the n«(nin|;L lOuti oC compMsion, then, s decent spear was efferedihim, but be declined and said,' ' spearv; were useless to men of sbieuoet' They aUewed him to sup inlbey^rrants' hall, aiad gav4 bim.a bci in th^ stables, •.''■^- ...-.,,, ^ Whin b« started forth, in the morning, thooaand were gathered to see. The emperor •Sid — "Do not be riub^ taka Ai«p«u#,MwU«ave p£F your knapsack.' ' Tii/s.". • ' Bnt the trSmp-eaidwH. .' f - ■■ ' It is not a knajissck.^ and moved atraigbt The dragon was waitingand re»dy. He wm breathing forth vust voltunles of sulphurous smdke and lurid blaats of flame. The ragged knight strode warily tO' a good position, then be nnsiung bivey}idli>ieal knap«ack— which was simpW the oomruon tire-extioguither kbtftriifWnlDd«ra:ti}ne»<4-and'the Urst chance bd gitfl- bit' ti/med on bis bnse and shot the dragon iqaare in the centre of his cAvernuus mouth. Out went the fire, in au inataut And the dtagMt- curled up ai&d died. This man had brought brains 4o bis aid. He had reared dragons .from the esg. in, bi> laboratCry,' he had watohed over tfa^rn like a mother, and patiently studied them and ef • perimented upon tbom while they gtciv. Tiius he had found out that fire was ihe life principle of a dragon ; pat out the dragon's ; Mre and* it eoMd make eteam no longer, and nrast die. He could not put out a fire with a ipesri thei^efela he invented theejrtinguieh. er. The dragon being (?ead, the empefipr fell on the hero's neck' and said'~r , ' Deliivetiir,' aam^ lyour requestr' at - the satlMe time beokoiting oat behind with his ^ed for a detaobmeutol bis daogbtors to form sn^ •4^"'^ .JBut^tbe tramp gave .them no pb|<;rv'fiQ6e^' "Hesf^ly isid-^ 'My, i;eqj4eiit .ie, that u^kitt me be con. ferre^.th^ fiioi|o^ly' of the ttUti^ttfiMture and i»]o ol jipects^tes in! OtruiJDt. * iThe empepr h|^hin|^;'>aiid4 aad ex^ claimedt"!" "" .^ '■',.'*«»...." . , 'Tbis trMiJjkAdji 'itll^ tBv 'Impiltfenoe I Qver iM^td r ' ' A moaest' demand, by my halidomC 1 Wity didn't yoila4k ' for the iinperialf^veaues kt 6d6b, indb* doto>«'W3tb .»tr -...V^"-'- • • ■■''■■ ■ ' •■ >' , But the n^f^iiai-bh biid siveoi bik vrerd, and )i« kept it. X6 evol^ybCdy'a Surpriae^ the unsjBlfiah , mionoponst' immediately Mdcood the, pric^bf e^ieetacies Id MMi^a'degree^tbat a firei^t and crtfsbi)^ bnrdett tras- removed (frQ^itb' natio^^ The emptrbf,* *f6' com- nnemnrate ibit j^oerotis a6ll,and to testify bi^ appreciiition of it, istucd a deiinteCoin- igipf hdmg everybodir to bdy iH&v tcti'tfacftor's spedtacle^ f n4 wcAf ' ibun, Irbetbar tb«y .neeae|d;.;Q^e)n or baatle, noiii' oiONd iba *Speot-oular On the rigb^i!' bank, tw^'tfr'tftVM miles be- low ibe ^pe3tabnlir'1tn? Along in tbis iregicn a inultitnde of Italian li^bpurerp were blasting kway the frontage of the bills tq make ,rCobi for the new railway. Tbey were fifty or a bnndreu f^et above the river. Aa we turdto'd k shAVp c6hier they be* gan to w»ve si^naU'jibd ihdii^ v^amings to us to look out forldbe exploticns. It was all very well to wern us, but what could we do? Youcai^'t backat'aft up tftivam, yon can't hurry 4t down stream, yon csn't acatter ont to onaoide uhen you navent any room to apeak of, you won't tAketn the perpeudieu' lar cliffs on the other s)h are when shey ap« pear, to )be bUtting th«lCik tbo. Your re* sources Are K^iUd.you sUs; ' There is sim|riy nothing fqr iX but to -^atitAi uid piray. For aome boiira #e had bmli Making threo and a half or fou ,7 ' • "' **,**«*'^.M wo were \% ki.i:w|ii.ftii5Pfiif j|i ifr % 40 ^i^ . .a^:L.::-j^^.;.v^;.-4':» ';.■■;■: irtRliliT* Abroad. ■till m»kiog.tha|.|iye, Old b««a 'dancing I I ig I right iklona antil th«M m«n tuenn t6 ijiotit'i '^ ithen for tnp oaxt tea mlnatiBi il icetnecl to ine that 1 had iMTiir.Mvu * nft j|0 io tlowljr. Wheat^be Hrai, blank went «ffwa nitAdprtr I ■UD]»r^ of dnst and, debria afaot ■ -Al«if 1 1 ewrjr fian dropped Ma pola afad lookad up to gut thf bearinga of hta tahaMi of it. It ^,.-waa very -buay ttfocp along tbero for a while. . ;,lt appeared aertaini ^bat we mutt periah, bnt ;• even that was not ibe bUtcreat tboqght } tin, tbeab)«r^that aimI tbe bicarra t^oniing yM the raaaltjng obituary : 'Shot^ith a rock < on a raf«,' ,tkera wonid be nq poetfy written ■ab«»ati No poet wbo^ned bia leputation #9nTd '^tnuoh a«oh>atbaiDfja8 that I ahontd be :ldi«tiDgni8hed aa ibo. only * distingniabed V dead 'who w-«nt dowa to tba d'W iinaou' uiietM), tnl87S. ! V* .;'".'"■ \. But we ratwped, and I have n«Va> regretted 'it< I'ba laat blaat waa a peo^liarl)^, atrerg r one, and after the. amalll rubbish in» done *rr»iiiing around na and we are jnat going to i^ihake handa ovar our deliveranoi^ a later and larger ati>ne oame down amongat oifr little group of pedeatriana and wrecked an umbrella. It did no other harm, but we took to tbe water juRt the vanie. 7 Ik aeema that tbe heavy work in the quaV* rit« and the new railway gradioga is done j mainly by Itsliana. That waa a fevelation. I We have . the notion in inur country that Iialiaua. never do heavy work at all, but confine tbfmaeivea to tbe Kithter a^,;like or|^>an griadiftg, opei utio ainginj^. and aaaaa* ■1) aiuatiiinb < We have blundered, that is ^ain. 9 All along the river, near dvery villajpe, «fe t;iaw little atatioo bouaea for thu future rail- way. They wctre finiah^d abd waiting for the raila and buaineaa. They were as trim a«id an«« and pceUy as they could b^ They %'«e alwaya of bri(qK or atone {tbeV were of graceful ahape,.tbey bsd vinea *bd flowers about thteni^ already, and around tk^nt the ; graua waa briyiht and green, and showed that It waa carefully looked after. They were a deooratloa to the beautiful landscape, not an o^enoe. Wherever one saw a pile of gravel, or a pile of broken stone* it WMi.aliirays >>eap> M as' irmly and ncaotly aa a new. grave or a staek of oannoa balls i tabtUng about tboae stations, or along the railread «t the wag- gon road was allowed taiook shabby fw look unornaaMtotal. The) keapnag >* copotry in su^h beantifolofldev aa Germany esbibi(a,has a wise praetical sidr of it, too, for it kefppa thousands of foople in work an board, and two and a half ten the lajiboard.' * Let her go off anetlffi* ]^ak' ^ r I , t •Ay-aye, sir.' ;. viqwi., ..... ' Forward, men, all oi yen.! «Ay-ave,eir.' .:■. i 'sV j Then followed a wild mnning and tramp, ling and hoarae ahouting, but - the forma of the meu were lost ik tbe darkoras, and tne aonnda were distorted and aonfu»'ed. by. tbe roaring of the wind through the,%hiogle>>buo. dlea. By thia time the eea waa running Inohea high, and tiireateninff every mom<'pt to engulf the frail bark. }fow oame tbe mate harrying aft, and aaid close to the captain's car, in a low, agitated voice 'Prepare for tbe worat» sir — we have spmngalaak I' * lleavena I where T' ti »i u i o.i-f m* ird} ' Bight af& the second tow qf Iegs,f ' * Nothing but a miracle can save na 1 Dpn't let the men know, or there .rill be a panic A TRAMP ABHOAD. and mutiny ! Lay her In i^tin and tland by to jomp HitU the tteru^liiie the moMietit il« tuuoiiM. deiitletnftii, I nttit loAk to yoo to Mooad my «ndeaioilrs In ^i« hoar of pi riL Yrtn bar« h««i-^^ tonrAlKl |uiA lUU for yoor lirw !' • , ' ] Down swept ulndthin' Briffhty bjaH^ ^w, clothed in ipray and tjiiok derkoeae^ At auoh a ihotnent iU Chi^ came fMMii away f 01 ward thM inbbt ii^piallihK of all <^ii«k ilhit areever heard f^^aea;--- • *«ft'..;. jm«.' • Man overboard I* - " "' ' ' , T»)e captain shotiMi-iW *^^ «!;«•«; m f • Hard a port ) I^eT> IttHfd ' iAh itm I Ldt, him cUmty aboard or ithdn aahore f ' Atiother bry cfttie down the iriad,— • •Br^af^e^mhe'idr •Where^WAyf ■ . ^/•':,"^' ' "■ . ^'-'I" , ■^Klot f !«ufa leiigtsi of 'W^tKHit f6ra-lbot'!^ H'eliM f(rb|ied dor riipjMry wey f^rw-rd, and were i)ow bi^iUntt with tlte frenay of desi'bir, #ticp we heard the nilte'e te^nfieil cry, from far af fc,-- ^ Stop that diflhed bailitt/t, or we shall he ligroQndr , , , ^ ! Bat thii wi^ fihmectiaMy Mlhwed by the f(lad 8hoat,-<^ ' '. ' L iiid abottrd eeoh. We trampled throttgH the datkiiesS and ihh dvenbhioe snAkuMcr rain fuH three miles, and reached 'The NalUraMt Tavern' ih the eiltagci of Hirwhr^om jast an hoar before roidtiikht, al* ranstekhaiisted froitt htirdsMp, faijsi|«e 4ud terror.' I osk. Qever foTget that nisbt. - The latidlord Wis rich, and thcrMoYe dotftd affinrd to be aro*ty kfid disbbKgliig f he dkl not at all tikH beittg famed Out of hie warln bud to open his hoase fdr aa Bat Hot Mat. ter, his household' got' up aadoooked aqoioli suj^r for lia. and #e brewed a hot pauoh f6r oaiselves, to keep off^pObsomptiua. AfMr; ttt) yer aud panoh we hid an hour's soothing smoke Viille w^fbaght the naval battle ovrr agiiii and vMed' the MeolotioM } then wo retiM tO^zOeitdlhi^y HMt «fid prrtty oham. bers np statri tnat had eleaii, onmfdrtabio bedk tv' th«iii " #itlft' Mriloom > pili«># «%sea mV)SielAboirit1^y hildttttefliliy «tthroid«roii E|a(ih"rooms^*hA Itede^ »wd smHrniderad HneaVtvii^ii^heilt'iii German village iniis. as th«y ahi >Mu«' f^oitri^ Our viliai|es are 8aperiorte€Nlraian')^llafi(le«ia more snerita. eteellendiefit cdht^MlAioeo and '> privilfgvs tb»t i* 040 endmerate; bat Mm hotela del not belovtf iO th^liiM. ' TiM Natnralist Taveri^^ iraMiok a mMning« YfHi nabe i for AH tn« billWand sM rt>*ms w^re Uiied with hrpi* tlassees^ewHioh wtirtKlfi led w{«h ali^rts oir bhMs lindainiaiala, glai>s «ye«), iMiy atufled, ind set^p'lii the mmit sataral Mod el*'iM*ltWe #ere ahett«b ' I d a^d «>ff to ale«>p while eoiitehipta'ijlbg a white stuffifd owl which' wat loohintl intently dowta on me ft- in 'a hiKh' perch with tbn air of ai pers<>a vt^ho «hv>a;{|it he' hall met nie before batiounld >jO« mske ottiftir oet*taia. ^dt yod'ng Z ^i4 niot K«l MF so eAmly. He said that at hfl^waa sinking delioioasly to siffep, the Imxin iiftedawiy the ehaitows add deV«!ot>ed a huge eat, on a bnu^kct, deed and' itttPidl hw eroMhing> ur or two of w6rry and ezpeirim«att and; set the oat oat io the hall 80 he won, llhat timo^ ' u CHAPTER XVHb f^ .,.-»*! lo the mnrninn we took breakfast in the sardeoj aitd^r th<»'^rMa, in the deliMhtful Chirtoin sniiimer faahiiinC' The- air was tilled with the fratiranee of flewera and wild aoi< inals ; 4be liviiiK portieo of the m«nai(erie of the • Nataraltat Tavern ' was all about ue. Ihete were great eH^^ee po)ialoaa with riut« taring akid ohittertng foreign birds, and Other great cigAa and greater wire, pen^, po|>ai«)«e wilh'^thdrnpem,, bot^ native and fpreigo. There weKssoAie free oreatares, too, 4^d quttle ewifiahle onee they we*%. Uliito nib^^a We&t lo^im* abnat the place, and nc. oasioualty daaie'Mia snilfsd at oar ■hues an*! (.^■^tiill^p-ilii p aad< nndera^aod their moral natorea bettar uban , mqeit, iD«a* woald have fonnd soma way .to makathi* . poor t»ld ehap forget his tronbles for a while>i iDub we had|ootQia kindly art^ ana ao had *«to leava the ra vea to we olimbed the hiU . apd visited the ancient cpatle 4>l Hirsobhotn, sjoid I the ruined ohnroh near it. Jhare were some ' curioas old bas>rt»liefs leafiingti .against the i inner walla of the chureh-rtoiilptnred lords I of flirsohhom in compAtta armour, and ladies of Hirschhor»>in the pto,|oresqney- wa]f,-r-s9 lie did not^onderitaod me. I turn- 04 mid t;Nris|)ed .^y question mtinnd anake^ut what 1 wanted. |ioW Mr- Xf^Vived, faced this aame m$a, looked nim in.tha eye, and empt* ied thia aefftei^pe ,on him, „ in tna most gUji and confident wfty : , , , . ' Can man boat get here T ** ' The mariner promply nn^frstood ^nd Pfcofnptlgi aaaw^ed. I caneomprehepdwhy he waa able tq npderstand thi^t particular cefteuce^ liavaqse by. ,mera accident al^ tne words in it except ' get ' hsve the (lame sound and the same meaning in ,Garmap that they havBia Efglish ; but how he maneced to upderatiMid !Jilx^jL.'» next remark pi^yyled mor I williusertit peseptly X turfusd away »mo^iel^^ perhapB tfa»t"lMlped i mvA pMtibly the raftooMn's dukleok w»s what u o«lleiU inquire of some |«ther pbiloloii(iBt. * Uewever, in the meaatime, it had tran« spired that the men employed to esfulk the ;taft had found that the leak was not a le^k at all, but only a orack b«t%" en the logs,^ — a orack which belonged there, and was not dangeronSfbat had beeil magoilied into s leak > by the diaotdered imagination of the natei Therefore we went aboard again witH a ftoed diigree of oonftdenee,>and presentlj^ got to eea.withoat acoidenti '▲s'we swam smoothlj' sleng between the enohantind; shores, > we feU to swaM>ing notee alMto^ manners and oostomsiiA Germany and else* where. As I write, now, many months later,' 1 perceive that each of us^ by observing and notina and enqairing, diligently and day by day, had managed to lay in a most varied and opulent stock of misinformation. But this is not surprising ; it is very difficult t6 get aoourate details in any country. For example, I had 'the idea, onoe, in Heidelberg, to tind out all about those live etttdent-oorps. I started with the White-oap corps.. I bei{an to inquire of this and that and the other oitisen, and here is what I found out t 1. It is called the Prussian Corps, be- cause none but Prussians are admitted tb it. 2. It is called the Prussian Corps for n^ particular reaion. Ic has simply pleased each oorpe to name itself affer some German htate^ 3. It is not named the Prascian Corps at aU, but oiil> the VVhite-Cap Corps. < • '■ 4. Any atudent can belong to it who is a Germsn by birth. ' 5. Any student can belong to> it who is European by birth. 6. Any European-born student can belong to it, except he ba a FreaohmiM. 7. Any student osn belong to it, no mfttter where he was born. 8. Nostudentoan belong' to it who is Uot of noble blood. 9. No student oan belong to it who oaanot show three full gonerations uf unble desoent. 10. Nobility ia not a necessary qualidoa* tion. li. No moneyless student oan belong to it. 12. Money duMiilOation 'is uonilense such a thing has neter' been thought of. I got sdme 6f this-'iofbrmation from stu- dents thenUMlves,— students who did not be- long to the cforps, I JSaally went to head- quarteri ->- to tbs White Caps^wbere I would havegonbMi the first place if I had been acquainted/ Biit eyea at beadquaiters I found dilBoultiei ; I petioeiVed tlisA there wei^ thin|^ abonb the White Cap Corps whieh'one member knew and another one didai'tk It wM naturid ; for vWy few mem* bers ef ailiy organtsatioii kno# ail that oan be knotrn iib6ut it. I doubt if there is a man or » woman ic Heidelberg' who wouM not answer promptly and oon6tfe th»t far with my toouMhl*! otiu uf tlien t>aMMi a Oorm«a iwin»rk. t<> mjr Kre»6 Klitf ftni igrntikad*; tuid iMtoie tlM biMi aok out ln« tliir4 WoM» oar bt>k(i hiul b^B d«liirfired. aud ij^raoioiuly r«tnrat:d» (Mtd w« «re{«;oK , Tottrti i» a iriaadlyi loiiiathiBg alK>al ibe dvrvuaa ohtfMtor wMoh it very wioaiog. Wh«)u Hnrrif and I war* makifg aiH^> krMn tour throiigh thf Dl^tk Vomttk w« ■t ; tDg |d carry thiHiiiK fur tri< in. Alt parties «ara,|iaogcy» s iio taJaiug. By aud by the Qtual bow* Wisr^' «Kuliaut(4|d, and wa M|tiU»t«d; Ad we eao at a lata br«»aiifa«iiii the hotel at Mle'h<'iliKen, next mofQiMffi tbaao.youvg p.<«i>ld* eoltered and took plaOMjUMMM wiUi. out ubaarviiig qa ; but preaa^tly tbiey aaw u« iKt at 0M0« bowed aM »iD}a<*( not oureinoniuualy. bat with the gratilftfd^k of pi-Dtjltf wh'i have ftuud aoqoaiataiK'ea where t i«i},wen>e^lN)«tii)g atra^ia. Tuaa they auiviiauf the we»tu«r iuid the roaoa« We a][«o aiiokeof the weather aud, the reads. vHoxt. ihey aaid they hadi bad aa euj •yabte W4ik, nutMitaaUiidmg the a^eath^r. We ■aid that that had b«bo ^r cane. t«iOt Thou thpyanid tbey ha^i ivathe<* thi £>tK^«h . Qida the day Ufarc^ bud aikvd how tuaay , ure had walked. I oovld not th), eu 1 t«>ld 11 irria to do ic. Harria told then) we had maiie thirty £iiKlK»h iQilea, too. Tbat waa truM { we iiad ' luade ' th^m, though we hail hall a little aH^tatauoe b«ie aad there. X After bieakfiiat they ianod ua .tryiug to Ib'aat aoiiie iu orinatioa. o»« of tihe dumb > hotel vlork abuut lout^f, and obaervjiiK that fiWe were uot Boooeeding yrctty wtli, tuey . ureat aud got their niafip and thiitga. and p«tiuttrd out and expliainrfd our o<>Hr«e ao oieaily that even a,N«w^ York deteuiive could have folio wtd iW i Aud vbeu we »tua,M-e w^re a Mlurn Wl and m a atraug« Uiui ; i dou t know ; I only kuow it waa litvely to he treated au. , : V« ly w«ll, I took an Amarioaa yonad lady tu I'Uo of the Hue balla in BitdvnpBw'en, oi or feoatethiug. Tue rlB ^al waa ever i>o polite, and wvw an eonrf, bat the rule waa fetriot, and he could nov left ne in. It waa very embarraaaing, for ma»y eyes were on ak. But now a rrchly dreayad girl atepiwd oh| of cba ba!l«rooiu, inqoired into the trouUr, and a^id aha a«inld tfai i« in a moQienb Jt^ha took Miiia Jonca t» tba rob- iog room, aud ■o«tn bropgitt her aaqh ia re- ■guUttou tiim, and than Wti entereit tha ball* reitiA with tliia hvielaotreaa natthallWuKed ^ Being aala, now; 1 bt«gan topuule through my amuCrabat uugrammMMoal thauka, when there wa* a aurtdltii matn»l revoxnitMm— tba lienefauire«a and 1 hart met at AUerhfiliKeo. I'wti weeks had not altaneif her ^mk\ face, aud plainly hur heart waa iu the ri^>it plaoa yet, but %iiwt% waa aiuh a diU'ereuue betaeen theati cl ihaa and the alotua^t 1 hatl^aeen her in bvfute. When abfl Waa walkin)i thirty .iuila« a dby in the Btaok Forrtt, that it waa i|tttte natural that I .had failei to recogn'ie tttr ao^Hicr. 1 bad 6n my other anit, t«Mt, but my German w«>tt)d li«.tia> mo to a per* atiu who had ha 'rd il oik-o. anj way. She b'-ougut her brather vend aister, aud they mM«M our way amo«>th fur that eveniig. V\ ell—- months alterwatd, I waa ariving throui;b (beatreeta of Mnuiuh iu'aoab aitS a Ueriuan la«iy, one du>, wh. ii ah« e itK— *Ther«> that ia -Pi iuee Ludwigaad bia wife, walkiug aloitg thetra,' Evei^buiiy waa bowing to them—cabmen, little otaiidren, and every iiudy e ae-i-iiuit tbay were leturniug iali the hitMS aud Dvedobiug uubtidy, when a jouug lart>b.>.l>(y one of the ladiea of ^e enurt,' aaid my G«ruiau fiicud. ' p4 .?.( H^ iaaid-^ ' :■■..■>.;.. * ti eis an knnmir to it. thmk I know her. 1 (lou't kuow her name hut 1 kuow her4 1 have knbwt^ her at Alli-rh»'iii^eu and B ulfu- Bideu. bha ought to he an £ npreaH, out Ahe may ha uuly » UunhcM : ib i« the way thioga go oti in thia woHd ' Jft>ua aakta Geruiuuta civ 1 juration, he will be quite t>ui«>< t«> go » ovu hmmmmf If yoHaiupa'Uerniau lit ihe»tieei ^nd aMk him tu tiieut >ott tu a ueruutii piusK, he nn'^wa uo aigO'of f«;tliiiK t'ffeuiied. It ihu I'laoe l>e d'tli ult tu tiud, teu tu one iht; iii -n will drop nia owi^.matiera aud i{o witb ^' a an t tihuw yuu. Ju L iialou, too, iimii^ a iiiae, atraut.airs have w>lk«ik c«3%ai.>l iihfke «ith ma to allow me uiy w^y.. I'lieie la nt.iuu* thing, very real ab<«ib thia a<>i-t oi poliiUtiena. Quite olteu, in Geriu<*ii,t, >-h >|>k> u|.ei» who o«Mild not f aruiah me tneatuoltfl wanuitl, Pm A TRAMP ABBOAD. b t I don't F«* ■uineihiiig^WM iH»Nri, or ft Im, >»• rlB ^«1 WM Kirrjn, bat thw noK tobna ia. Of msBy ey«i iy dreatail girl inquired into nid thi i« in a MS tn tkMrob* hw MU|ti ia re. t«r»i th* ItklU i(!httil«MK«d |HiBsl« thruagh 1 ihAMkn, •Than )u«>^intHin—tbe I AUerhviiiMen. ler ni^ki faee, th» right piMa ereuouWtvkeaa 1 b«tl^M«» har viklking thirty fet,thutit> WM il tu reogo'ia jthcr knit, toi», >y raa to ■ per* mtij M»y. 8tae ■ter^ and they t (tvetiii'g, I w»a uriving li iit'aosb ftith imhe Hill— "g and hia wife. hent»-oabmen, e Be4-'ilt:<6u aitd l>eaii En prow, en* : lb is the I.' V 1 qnt-atjou, be /e ltt«; ill -ii will wnb^' a an I iiiaii> a iiuit^, .•1 j>lo-k8 Milh 'iittiu la (it.itiu- t IM |i->llli;«li«;ii«. >pk< u{'Uro WdU ioi« i waawdd, bava Rent ooa of their employes with ma to ihow me a place where it oonkl be had. CHAFIES XIX. Bowever, I wander from the raft We made tne port of NeokarateinMch in ^'ood aeaaor, and w<>Nt to tha'hiftel and ordere i a trout dinner, theaaraa to be ready anaicet onr retarn from a tvo*hoar pedrati ian ex> oaroion to the villnge and cattle of Dilaberg, • mita diatvnt, on > th*' oth^ aide of the tivir. I do not mean that Wa propoeed to be two hi^ura makiilK two miirs— no, we meaAi to employ meat ol the time in inapeot> iiKi Oili>b«rg. Vqr liilsbrrg ii a quaint piaoa. It i« moat Juaiotly and pieturoaqncly nitoated, umk inagine the bcantifnl-river lLle^»re yon ; then a. few voda of brilliant green award on ita oppuaita shoraf i then a enddan hill— no pre- paratory iirntly liaiog alopn, botaaorc of iiiataotaiie«>uiii hiU-i-a hill two hundred, and fiity or three hnndred feat hiKh, ae round as a bow«l. with the aamo' taper upward that an ioverted bowl has, and with about the same relation of hdght to diameter that die* tingniahes a bnwl nf good h»iiiat depth-* a hill which ia thickly nlutbed wiih green buahea— a Cf>mcly, abapely hill, riairg abruptly out of the dead level of the bui«> rouutiing itreen plains, viaibia from a greet diatancf- down the bend of the river, and with just vzaotly room ob the top of ita head for itaet^t-pled and tatreted and roi>{-cluater* ed cap of architecture, which aame ia.titibtly jammed and compacted within the |>«irfevtly round hoopof theauoieiit villnga wall. 1 here ia no hwuxe outaide the wall on the •wht le lill, onany vestige of a foraier houto ; all the bouaee are iuaide the wall, but there isn't room fur another one. It is really a finished town, and has been fiuiahed a very long tima. There is no apace between tlie wall and the fiiat eirela of bu'liiinits ; no, the village wall is ita^lf the rear . wall of the firajiicirule of bmlJiogs, . aud the roof iut a littlf ov> r the well and ahua furniah it with eavea. The general level t^f the matiaad roofs it ^rao fully broken imd relievid by the diMiiiuatioH toweis of the mined eaatle and the tall apireaof a couple of charchea ; so, from a diatance DiUberg has ratlivr moro tha Iqpk uf a kinvi'ia vcimn than a cap. That lofty green eini|>eout warainar* tbey gave va good^lay, fla>'h(d ciut of eight io the bniahas, and were gona ail and. deftly and myaterionaly as fhay had o< ma. They ware ixroad for tha other able i f the river to .worb^ Thia path had been tn* vi> lied by many ganavaliansd these people. Tbi^y have always hona down to tha valley to earn their braid, bwt they hova olwaye eliiitbed their hill again tooatit^ ind toslsap in tlieir ■Dog towa. ' It is Said that tlM DH«bev{wn do not emi* grata mneh | thry And that living np there above tha world in their praot-ful m s*>, is pleasanter than living, down in the troublous MN>rld. Tha seven hundred iuhabifants are ail blood^hin to each other, too ; they hhve always been blood' kin to each other for fif- teen hundred yaaraj they are aim ply one large family, and ^hey like the hnm« folks bettnr thao they liko atranpers, hence they per»iateatly stay at himt". It has been raid that fdr agas Dilabirg baa been merely a thriving aud> diligent iidiotrfautary. I saw no iiliots there, bnt;th» Captain said, 'Recausa of lajba yehri the gdveroment baa taken to loggip.1 tbemioff toaaylnma and oth<>rwlitre»( aad goverumeotiwanta to cripple the factory, too^ and ia trying to get thea« Ditab* ryeia to micrybai vf tha family, but they dtAu'i like to.' The oaptaiii probably imagined all f bis, as mndt'Xa lioienoe denies that the inter marryitg of rt'Iativbs deteriorates the 8t«wki Arrived within the wall.we ftmad the nsual villaga iiitbts and life. We /moved elong a narr.tw, crooked lane which bad beta paVed in tlM middle ages. A strapping ruddy girl was baatiug flax or soma anoh stfaif in a little bit:e tvus not room. lu tha front room of dwellings girls and woman were wiokiug or spiuuii g, u>8.the.lai« BsoMpt khe slaepy^ old nmn, everybody wei •t workt Vinft> the pleoe wu very itili and very tMMefal, MveribeleH | ee MiH thai the dietaat mokle of ibe lecoeMifnl' bea emote npoo the ear bat little dolled by iaterveniDK aonnda. That onmaioBett of village ehtbta waa lacking bere->tbe pnhUo pnoip, with ila great ttoDe tank or trooRh e( limpid water^ and ita (troop of fottiping pitoher*bearera ; fnr ther* ia no well nr fovritain or apring on thia tall hilly otaterae of rais/iwator arooaedi Our alpenatooha. and maalia taila eem- polled atteatiOB, sofd ae we Moved tbroagb the villaoe we » gathered . a eooaidecaMe pro- ceasioD of little boya and girlo. and oo waat in tome etate to* ifie oietle. ' It proved to be an axleneive .jai^ et emmblinf wall% arohea and tdwera, maaeive, properly grouped for piotitrceqne effnot^ it'Mdy^ grata grown, and aatiifactoryi TLeohildianaoted at guidet ; they walked mm aSong the top of the higheat wall, then took aa-nto hto a hiflh tower and thowed oa a wide- and beant^ ful laodtoape, made 'u^' of wavy diatancee^ of woody hillei asd a nearer proapeot of un- dulating «zp*ntei of loeen lowlaiMa, on the one hand, and oaatle.graoed eraga and ridgea nn the othei^ witAi the ■hioing^cnrvea cf the Neekar flowing between. ' Bnt' the>prinoipal akow, the chief pvide of the children 'waa the anoient and emp^ well in the graaa* ^irown eoort of the oaatl«i>' Ite mataive atone curb atandj up three e^ lonr feet above gronad, and iawhoL^ and nniDjared. . The children taid that in the Middle Agea thia well waa four hundred feet; deepi and fur- niehed all the villagtf witii an abnndaMt asp ply of water, in war and peace. They aaid that in that old day ita oatten Waa below the level of the Feckar« henoe the water aunply waa inexhauntibfai ' ' But there w»e aomawho believed it bad never Inen a well a% all, and waa never deeper than it ia now^-eigkty feet ; that at thaa depth a rabterranean paaeage branched from it and dcacended gradually tO'a venfote plaoe in th«» valley, where it opened into aoniebody'a cellar or other hidden rcoean, and that Uie secret of 'thia loeality is now loat 'Thoae who hold thia belief lay that herein' Ket the explanation that Dilaberg, beeieged by Tillny ani many a aoiJier before him, waa never taken ; after the longett and eleaeat aiegea' the beei« letT* 60 ' it acemod quite evident that the anb> terranean outlet indeed ex'ited, I But the finett thing within the rmn'e limitO'Waaa noble linden, which the cbHdren Mid waa four hundred yeare old, and no doubt ft waa. It bad aiaightv traak and a mighty apf«ad of limb ana foliage. The limM near the ground were nearly thathiekneae of a barrel. Thai tree had witnaated the aaaaulta of map in mail— bow remote such a time aeena, and how nngraapable ia tho fact tbal real men ever did fignt ite •real armour 1— and it had Bcen tha time when tbeae broken arohea and crumbling battleaaenta were a trim and atrong and etately fortreaa, flattering ita gay banner* in the ann, and peopled with vigor- one bvnWDity-- how'impoaeibly long ago that aeema !>— twd here it atanda yet^ and poo»iblv may atili be ataoding here, tunning itaeff and dreanlhig ita biatorioal dreamt: when to> day ahall have baen joined to the daya called ' ancient.' Well, we sat down under the tree to emoke, and tho captain delivered himaelf of hia legend t TBI UMBlf D OW nnSBVRO CASTVm It waa to thia effect. In the old HmH there waa oneo'a great company aaaembled at tho caatlej atAl feativity ran high. Of bourae there waa a haunted oham her in the oaatle, and one day the talk fell upon thatt It waa aaid: that whoever alept ved him with the memory of: it; Straigbtw4y the company privat^ly^ laid their heada together to oontrive some way to get this eapAwtitiotts young man to Sleep in that Oiamber. And they n]ecd-^in this: way. Thev pOrsnaded hia betrothed; H' lovely, 'miscbievons yOdUg' oMatOre, riiece of the lord of the caatle to heli> them in tbUlV plot. She preaently took him aside and had; speech with him; She ni>ed all her per-| iuations, l>ut oculd not shake bira ; he saidi >p^ "''^ A TRAMP ABROAD. 'I b«r.f f WM Arm that if ' he ahonld sleep thiirb ha wimla wftke no more for flftv* years, And it! mule him shudder to thhik uf it. ICathiiri'uat began to treep. This was a heiter jargauiuiit ) Conrad Onald not hold oat fagainaciv. He yielded and said she shonld [ha^e her wish if atae'Wuald Only smile and be bappy akaio. She' flang her arms aboQt his neuk. and the kisses ihe gav< him showed that ber thaiiktulneu and hef pluasare were I very real. Tueu she flew to tell tb«*compAny ' bci suooess, and the applause she itdeiVed made her giad and prdtiU she had tiadortaken ; her biisbiou, bioce all alone she had ac* bomplished what' the mttllitude had failed in. At midnight, that night, after the nanal feavting, Ouurad was taken to the har.ated chimber aiid left there. H« fell asleep by and by. ,..,,... ^ When be awoke again Md looked abont him, his heart stood still with horror! The whole a»peot of iue chamber was changed. Tfeo^»l'» wtre mouldy and hunf^with anoient cobwebs i iM cOrtaiuB and beddings were rotten 5 tbe f ar'ulifcure Was rfoksty and reJkdJr to fall to piAces. He sprang out of b*(f, but his qtiakiT g knees suuk nuddr him and he fell to tbe floor. , - , ^ • Toii is the Weaktiesi ' «f , i^,' he He rose and sbught hu clothing. IlwaS clothing no longer. The colottre were gone, •the jtarmeihti s*vft way in ibahy places while h^ was pulling ihem on^ , Hb fled, shudder* iDg into the corridor, tad along it to, the (?r«ftt hall. Here he wis met by a mi die- aged 8ti*n(;er of » kind duunterancs, who stopped and gazed «t him wiUi surprise. Conrad said : — < Qu«d sir, Will 2?oa send hither the lord Ulrica ? ' . . The stratiitft looked ptltzled « tt^misaib then saM,— > . ■ •ThelurdUhrioh?' ' Yo8— if yod Will be sb gbofl.' The stranger calledr-' Wilhelm I' A joung serving mia came, abd the stranger said n> him— 'Isi there • lord Ulrich amoDg the guests?' ' I know noAe of the ouao, so plcatfo year honour.' , , , - Oourad said hesltikUpgly- '':;'!..,;: 'I did not meftn 4 g^sstf l^s the lolrd ctftlts eastle, sir. The stranger and the servant exchanged wondeiiug giancsa. TliSQ the former said — ' I Qm the lord of the oaslle.' « ii> ;$;/ •Since when, sir f" /, : " ^ ' ^''**^*^^ ' Since the death of ray father, the good lord Ulriob, more than fofi^yyeara ago.' Conrad sank upon a bouch, aadcovered his face with his hands while he rocaied his body to and fro and mo«aed. The stranger said in a low Toiot* to- the servant-^ * 1 tear me this poor old creature is mad', Call some bn9. ' la a motn«int several people came, and grouped themselves about, talking in wbiHpers; Ounvad looked up and scanned the laoes abouc biui wistfdiiy. Then he sbd6k4iis head and said, in a grieved voice — * No, there ii none among ye tbat I know. I am old and alone in the wurid. They are dead and gone this many years tbat oare^ for me. but sure, some of these aged ones I see about me can tell me somelitue wotd or two omcenimg them.' Several bene and tottering ir«en )^jid women eawe nearer aiid auswerea his questiuufc about e<4ofa( former frieud as he mehtioned the hames.- Tbia one they taid had been dead ten. yearn, that ope twenty, another thirty. Each suoceeiliitg ' blow stiuuk heavier and ti^Avier. At last tne snfl'erer said^ ' '^ There is one more, but I hav« not the courage to^(>, my lust Oathaiiua t" ' ' Oae of the old dames said— '* *"* "» 'Ah, I knew her well, poor soqL A this- fortune overtook her lover, and she died of sorrow nearly fifty years ago. Sbe lierL tinder the linden tree without tne court,-' < " Conrad buwed his head and said'— «'4H*r Ml toiik up »ad hAvo thy Uagh, BOW t' He I >oke(l op, NMrohed th« m«rry faoM •Ixiut him ia » drM^ny way, thou aighud and MI'l — ' I am weary,, gfMl slr^nfera, I pray yoQ leatl ni« to hfr gr«v«,' AU (he ain>l<«4 vaniahed aw^, aTtry oh«uk blatahe i, UMk4»-iu4 aauk W >k» grouod iu • •woon. 4 . , All ilav tha people wml about the osatle wiii«i». A piiuful bM«b p«irv*de«l the uiHce which h% (•• her grtive.' 0>iri ary grave of .b>a ' 'aihariDa. Catharina wua the only uouiptitiy nf the harmleap m Adman. He w#« very friendly to*^*>^''B k«r Iteoaoae, aa be aaid, in aume waya fke remiuded him of hi>« 0.-< •» nrhou he had loat ' fifty yea ■ ago.' He often 8ai«\— ' 6lie waa a«» gty, «o happy hearted,— but 3on iKVor ain-te t and aitvaya wbea you IhmU I m not lookiitg, you ury.' Wiien Ooual died, ihty buried him «n> .der the lin Ion, acouniing to hia dirt!utiona,«o that bH iidght reat 'near hia poor UathHrioa.' Th>Mi OAtiiMrina aat under the Ha«lon oloue, ^vry «Uy an«t all day long, a gravt tnany y«ftr«, •!>« tiling to no one, aoil ncvur imiU ing I a)i>i at Uvt her long repeutanoo was r^/^r.led wirh death, aad eh^ was buried by OjnrwlV a fia pU>M«d the captain by aaying i:; wan a ffo rt in luo g«rd«D, wi^ithe beautiful Nectar fl.twing at oor fact, tho ^ aajnl Dilaberg looming be* yond, aad tho grabefui towera and battle- mania of a oonplo uf inod<«val oa^^tla* (o4ll«)d the 'Swallow'a Neat'* and 'Tbe Brothera) aaniating tho ragged aoenary of a brud of the rivof down to oar rit(ht. We gottoaaain ia.iaon tomtke the dght mi!e run to Hnidelberg before tho ni ht abut down. We aailed by tho htit«d in the meU low glow uf aunaet, and came alaahing duwn wish tho mad current into ^he narrow paa* sage bf twecn the dykei. I oelieved I could ahuot the bridge myaelf, ao I went to tho fitrward triplet of lugs and relieved the pilot of hia pola and hia reapousibility. We went taarioa along in a moat exhiUrat- inf| way, and I performed the delioato dutioa of my office vary well indeed for a fi'-tt attempt ; bai paroeiving presently, tba'^ I really waa going to aboot the bridgo itaelf inatead of tho archway oodar it, I judi* oiou«ly atapped fahora. Tho next moin^i • 1 1 bad my long coveted desire : 1 saw a raft Wrookad. It hit the pier in the center «nd went all to smMb and acatteratiou Uke a box of matohea atruok by lightning, I wa« the only oim ojf our party who saw the grand siKht ; the others were attitndin* sing, lor the ben«tito( tha long rank of young lavliea who were promenading on the bhnk, und ao they lost it. But I helped to tiah them out of the river, down below the bridge, and then deiioribtd it to them as well I a I oould. Tney were not inttrexted, thouktb. Tixey aaid they were wet aud felt ridiculous aud (lid not oare anything for descriptions of i>oenery. The young l«i<)ies, and other people, croMrde«l around i^d ahweod a great deal of aym.uathy, but tliat ditf not help matters ; fur my fiittuda aaid they did not want ay inpatfay, tboy wiAfted a back alley and solitude. CHAirEB XX. ITezt momin[|[ brought good news— onr trnuka bad arrived' fioih Hamburg ot lait. Lqt thia me a war,oing to the reader. Tiie Uormana kre very conaoifntionn, and th'a tr»it makeii th«m very paitivulnr. Therefore it yoil tell n GeYmaa you want a thing done immediately, lie tikea you at your wco 1 1 he thiukf yqn .meia what you tay ; so he d«eK that tniii«( iminediately— aocoMing to hit idea of immediately — which is about a week ; that i«, it ia a wiek if it refera to the build- ing of a gariuent, of it ia an hour and a half * I he Boeker aXter In'oimaiinn Ii referrefl to /pPMiUix U for oor 0<4p ali>*8 i eueud oftlia b w alio ^ '» a cat ' au.i ' 'i'lte Brother 6, ^ "4^ -m A TRAMP ABROAD. 49 f it rtfert to the onckiag of • tfoati. Vary woll t if yoa t«U • tioroiMi to pend ynnr 'trnnii to you by ' slow friaght*' Ho takes voa at voar word ; bo itndt it by ' ajov freight, ' and you oaooot imagina liow loog you will go oo eoUrgiog vour admiratioo of the ox* preMivenese of that pbrtM in the Qorman tooguo, beforo yoa Mt that trunk. The hair on my trunk waa eoft and thick and youth- ful, when I got it raady for ihiitment in Hamburg t it wa* baldhitacled when it reaoh- •d Heidelberg. However, it waa atill aound, that waa a oorafort, it wm not battered in the leaat ; the baggagemen aeemed to be oop- aoientiouely oarefql, in Germany, of tne baggage intruited to their handa. There waa nothing now in wai|r of onr departure, therefore we aet about oar preparatiooa. Naturally my chief aolioitude waa about my collection of Keramica. Of ooaree I ooold not take it with ihe, that would be inconvenient, and dangerous beaidea. I took advioe, but the bMt brio*aiere ; that thing or»eping up the ti^' la not a bug, it is a hole. I boufcht thia %mr jug of a dealer in antiquities for font btin(tr«d and fifty dollars. It is very rare. Th« m*« said the Etruscans used to keep tears or something in these things, and that it wns verv hard to get hold of a broken one, now. I also set aside my Henri IT. plate. See sketch from my pencil ; it is in the main correct, thon|;h I think I have foreshortened one end of it s little too much, perhaps. This is very fine and rare ; the shape is exoeeidingly beautiful and nnu ual. It has wonderful decorations on it, but I am not Able to reproduce them. It cost more than the tear-Jajf, as the dealer aaid there was not another plate just like it in the world. He said there Was much false Henri II. ware around, but that the genuine* neas of this piece was nnqnestiouable. Be showed me its pedigreCi^ or its history if yon please ; it was a document whioh traced this plate's movements all the way down from its birth,— showed who bought it, from whom, *nd what he paid for it — from the first buyer down to me, whereby I saw that it had gone steadily up from thirty- five cents to seven hundred dollars. He said that the whole Keramio world would be infoyned that it was now in mv possession and would make a note of it, with the price paid. There were Maaters in those d*ys, alas, it is not so now. Of course the main predousness of this picoe lies ir its colour; it is that old, senaoous, pervading, ramifying, intsrpolatinff, traosboreal blue which is the despair of modern arl The little sketch which I have made of thi4 gem cannot and does not do it justice, since I have been obliged to leave out the colour. But I've got the expression though. However, I must not be frittering awa the reader's time with these details. 1 di*^ not intend to go into any detail at all, at tirat, but it is the failing of the true kera* micer, or the true devotee in any depart- ment of bric-a-bracery, that once he geta his tongue or his pen started on his dailing theme, he cannot well stop until he drops from exhaustiibn. *Hehasuo more sense of the flight of time than haa any other lover when talking of his^ sweetheart. The very ' marka ' on the bottom of a piece of rare crockery are able to throw me into a gib* bering ecstasy , and I could forsake a drowning relative to help d'spute about whether the stppple of a departed Buon Retiro aces t- bottle waa genuine or spuri* ous. Many people say that for a male- person, bric-a-brac nunting is about aa robust a business aa making doll -clothes, or decorat- ing JapanesA pota with decalcomauie butter- flies would be, and those people fling mud at that «legant Englishman, Byntt, who wrote a book called ' The Brio-a-Brao Hunter, ' and make fan of him for chasing around after what they choose to oiill 'nis despi- cable trifles ; ' and for ' giishtng' over these trifles ; and for exhibiting his * deep infan- tile delight' In what they call his 'tuppenny collection of beggarly tnvi^itie* ; ' ' land for beginning hiii book with a picture of himself tented, ^n » * s|tppy, self -oofnolMent attitude, in the tiiuist of his poor little ridic^ona . brio'a-brao junk shop.' It is eaAy to say these ihings ; it is, eyy to revile us, easy to despise us i therefore, let these people rail on ; they cannot feel aa Byng and I feel,— it ia their loss, not ours. For my part lam content to be a brib-a bracer and a keramicer, — itiore, I am proud to be so namied. I am proud to know that I Idose my reasoA aa immediit^ly in the presence of a rafe jug with an illnstrions mark on the bottom of it, as if I had just emptied that jug. ' Vbry well ; I packed and stored a part of my collection, and tho rest of it I placed in the care of the Grand Ducal Museum in Mannheim, by permission. ♦ n li ^ -^.: '!P'% 00 A TRAMP ABROAD. lr< ^^r Hi^? My Old Blae Chioft C«^ retnaina there v«i I preieutetl it to that exoallent iiiatiUtlon. I had but. one iniefortnna with my thiogn. An eag which I had kept back from break- 1 faat that inorDiu^,wa# broken in pack (Off. It waa a fireat pity. I had shown it to the neat Abninoiaeiira in Heidell)«rg, and they all laid it waa an antiquo. tVe apent a day or two in farewell visit*, and then left for Baden- Baden. We had a pleasant trip of it. for the Bhine valley ia always lovely. The only trouble wat that the trip waa too abort. If I rememher rightli^ it only occupied a couple of boar*, therefore I jadge tbat the distance was very little, if any, over fifty miles. We quitted the train at Oos, and walked the entire remtioing distance to Baden-Baden, with the exception of a lift of leM than an hour whieh we got on a pasaing waggon, the weather being exhaustingly warm. We came into town on foot. One of the first persons we encountered, as we walked up the atreet was the Rev. Mr. — -, an old friend froqi America — a lucky enocnnter, indeed, for hia is a most gentlf, refined and sensitive nature, and bis company and companionship area gepuine refreshment. We knew he had been in Earope sometime, but were not at all expectioc to run across him. Both parties but>st intolnviDg enthusi- asms, and Rev. Mr. — said : 'I have got a brira-fnl reservoir of talk to pour out on you, and an empty one ready and thirsting CO receive what you have got ; we will sit up till midnight and have a good satisfying interchange, for I leave here early in the morning.' We agreed to that of course. i I had been vaguely pontcions for a while, of a peraoB who waa walking in the street •breaat of u,s ; I had glanced furtively at him once or iwioe,and noticed that he waa a fine, larger viKorous young fellow;, with an open, indepiiodent countenance, fait. \, shaded with a pale and even almost imperceptible , crop of early down, and that he was clothed from heaa to heel in ceol and enviable snow- white linen. I thought I had also noticed that his head had a sort of listening tilt to it Kow about this time the Rev. Mr. ■aid: * The sidewalk ia hardly wide enough for three, ao I will walk behuid ; but keep the talk goios, keep the talk going, there s no time to lote, and you may oe sure I will do my share.' Ue ranged himself behind us and straightway that stately snow-whit, young feluiw ofoled up to the side-walk atongsitle him, fetched him a cordial slap on the shoulder with his broad palm, and aung out with a hearty oheeiiuess : i,.i 'Americana, fpr two-anda half and the money up? Hey t' 'i he Reverend Winced, but raid mildly t ' Yea — we are Americana.' * Lord love yoti, yon can jnnt bet that's what I am, ever^ time ! Put it there ! ' He held out his Sahara of a palm, and the Reverend laid his diminutive hand in it. and got so cordial a, shake that we heard his glove burrt undi»r it. « Say, didn't I put you up right ? ' - *«. • ' 'O/yes;' ' ^'' '8ho! I spotted you for my kind the minute I beard your clack. You been over here long?' * About four months. Hiive yon been over long?' * Long ? Well I shotild aay so I Going on two years, by geeminy i Say, are yon home* sick ? ' * No^ I can't say that I am. Are yon ? ' O, -— yes.' Thia with imtnense en* thnsiaam. The Reverend shrunk a little in his clothes, and we were aware, rather by iustinet than otherwise, that he wsa throwing out signals of distress to us ; but we did nut iuterfene or try to succour him, for we were quite happy. The young fellow hooked his arm into the Reverend*a now, with a oonfidiug and grate* ful air of a waif who has been lunging for a friend, aod a sympathetic ear« and a cbaace to lisp onoe more the eweet accents of the mother tongue-rand then he limbered up tho muscles of his mouth and turned himself loose ^and with such a relish ! Some of his words were, not Sunday aehool word«, so I am obliged to put blanks whore they ojcur. ' Yes,indecdy i If I ain't an American there ain't any Americans, that's alL And when I heard yon fellows gassing away in the good old American language, I am r— if it waan't all I could do to keep from hugging you I My tougue'a all warped with trying to curl it around these — ' — -forsaken wind -galled sine- jointed German words he^e ) now I tell jKOtt that it'a awful good to lay it over a CUrisiian word once more and kind ef let the old taate aoak in. I'm from western New York. My name ia Cholley Adama. I'm aatndent, you know. Been here going on two years. I'm learning to bo a borao'dootor. I like that part of it, yon know, but __— — these people, they won't learn a fellow in his own language, they make him learn in German ; ao before I could tackle tho horse-doctoring I had to tackle this miserable language. ' First off, I thought it would certainly Rive me tho botts, but I don't miud it now, I've flot it wbere the hair's short, I think ; w'%TiSP'-\.v>:Wf v;-i; .■.•ff«*»««»i*«rf*..-i*i- '^'-^^^^^m A Tn4MP ABIIOAD. % •nd dontohaknow, they mmde melearn Latin, too. Now, between yoo ami me, I wouidn^t give a for all the Latin that wac ever jtbbered ; and the first thing I calculate to do when I get through, ii to juat ait down and forget it. 'Twuut take me long, and I don't mind the time, anyway. Aud I tell you what ! the difference between cchnol- teaching ov> r yondt* r and theachool-teaohiug over here — sho ! We don't know anything about it ! Here you've got to peg and ^^^ and peg and there just ain't any let-up— and what yon learn here, you've got to know, dontohukuow— or elre you'll have one of these spavined, apectaoled, ting- boned, knock-kneed old professor, in your hair. I've been here long enough, and I'm patting blessed tired of it, mind I tell you. The old man wrote me that he was ooroing over in June, and said that he'd take me home in August, whether I waa dona with my education or not, but dorn him, he didn't come ; never »aid why ; just sent mo a hamper of Sunday school books, and told me to be good, and hold Ou m while. I don't take to Sunday icbool books^ dontohuknow, — I don't hanker after them when I can get pie — ^but 1 read them, anyway, because whatever the old man telle me to do, that's the thing that I'm a-going to do, or tear something you know. I buckled in and read all those booki>, because he wanted me to ; but that kind of thing don't excite me, I like something hearty. But I'm awful home- sick. I'm sick from ear-socked to crupper, and from orupper to hook joint ; but it ain't any use, I've got to atay heie, till the old man drops the rag and givea the word — yes, sir, right here in this country I've got to linger till the old man saya come I — aud you bet your bottom dollar, Johnny, it ain't just aa easy aa it ia for a cat to have twins r At the end of this profane and cordial ex- plosion he fetched a prodigious ' Whoosh I' to relieve his longs and make reoognition of the heat, and then he straightway dived in- to his narrative again for ' Johnn^'a' bf:.ereecuting yon again, and as vigorously as before. They keep cruelly lata and early hours, for such noisy folk. Of course when one begins to find ftult with foreign people's ways, hO is very likely to get a reminder to look nearer home, be- fore he gets far with it. I open my note bock to see if I can find some more informa- t'ou of a valual le nature about Baden-Baden, And the first thing I fall upon is this : Baden-Baden, (no date. ) Lotof vucifArnna Americans at breakfast this morning. T.ilk- ing at everybody, while pretending to talk among themselves. On their first travels, manifestly. Showing off. The usual signs — aiiy, easy-going references to grand dis- tances and foreign places. ' Well, good bye, old fellow— if I don't run across you in Italy, yon hunt me up in London before yon sail.' The next item which I find in my note- . book is this one : ' The fact that a band of 6,000 Indians are now murdering our frontiersmen at their impudent leisure, and that we r -e only able to send 1,200 soldiers again t «hem, is Utilized here to discourage em''gration to America, The common people think the Indians are in New Jersey.' This is a new and peculiar argument against keeping our army dowu to a ridicul- ous figure in the matter of numbers. It is rathera striking ou<',too. 1 have not distorted thettruth in saying that the facts in the above item, about the army and the Indians, are made use of to discourage emigration to America. That the common people should be rather foggy in their geography, and foggy as to the location of the Indians, is matter fur amusement, may be, but not of surprise. There is an interesting old cemetery in Baden-Baden, and we spent severul pleasant hours in wandering through it and spelling out the inscriptions on the aged tombstones. Apparently after a man has lain there a century or two, and has had a good many people buried on top of him, it is considered that this tombstone is not needed by him any longer. I judge so fiom the fact that hundreds of old gravestones have been le- i&' m ▲ TltAMP ABROAD. 5li moTcd from th« gnvM and plaoedVptin*^ tha inner wslla— of Uie (wmatary. What artiato they had ia tHa old timM ! Th«y cbiaolad •nteeli and oh«raba and davUi and akaUtom on tha toa»b«tone« in tba most lavish ^ and i;enaroas way,—- aa to raf>ply, — bnt onriont* y grotesqae and ontUndirh m to form. It ia not alwaya aaay t tell wbioh of the fignrea belong amonf{ v«t hlaat and which of them among the oppooita party. Bat there waa an inaoription, in f^renob, on one of thoae old atonea which waa qnaint and pretty, and waa plainly aot the work of any otiier than a poeU It was to thia affect ; Him Bkposbs in God. Cakolinb db Clert, A Rkligibusb or St. Denis, aoed 83 years— asd bund, The jjoht was restored toj hek IK Baden the 0th ov januast, 1839. We made several ezonraioES on foot to the neighbouring villages, over winding and beantifal roads and through ^enchanting woodland scenery. The woods and roads were similar to those at Heidelbernt, but not 80 bewitching. I suppose that roads and' woods which are np to tha Heidelberg mark are rare in the world. Once we wancler«>d clear away to La Favorita Palace, which is several miles from Baden-Badeo. The gronnt^ about the Daiace were fine ; the palace was a curiosiiy. It was built by a Margravine in 1725, aud remains as she left it at her death. We wandered through a great many of its rooms, and they all had striking pecnliari- tics of decoration. For instance, the walls of one room were pretty completely covered with small pictures of the Margravaie in all conceivable varieties of fanvixul costumes, some of them male. The walls of another room were covered with grotesquely aud elaboraterly figured hand-wrought tv.pestry. The musty ancient beds remained in the chambers, and their quilts and curtains aud cannpies were decorated with curious hand-work, anil the walls and ceilings frescoed with his toricaland mythological scenes in glaring colours. There was enough crszy and rotten rubbish in the bnildins to make the true brie a-bracer green^ with envy. A paint- ing in the diniug hall verged upon the indeli- cate— bat then the Mari^ravine was herself a tiifle indelioate. It is in every way a wildljr and pictn- retqu^ly decorated|hoase, and brimful of in> terest as a reflection of the character and tastes of that rnda bygone tim*. In the grounds, a few rods from the palace, stands the Margravine's chapel juMt as she left it — a larse wooden structure, wholly barren of cvaament. It is said that the Mar* gravine wonid give herself np to debauchery and exoeedinsly fast living for several mnnths at a time, and then retire to ^is miserable wooden den and spend a few months in re> p«nting and gettina readv for another good time. She was a aevoted Catholic, and Was perhaps qnite a model M>rt of a Christian as Christians went then, in high life. Tradition says she spent the last two yam of her life in the strange drn I have been speakins of, after having indulged heraelf in one final, triumphant and aatisfying spree. She shnt herself up there, without oomoacy, and without even a servant, and so abjurad snd forsook the world. In her little bit of a kitchen she did her own cooking ; she wore a hair shirt next the skin, and castigated her* s»lf with whips— the*e aids to srace are ex- hibited there yet She pra^rftd and told her beads, in another litUe room before a waxen Virffin niched in a little box against the wall; she oeddeoi herself like a slave. In another small room is an nnpainted wooden table, and behind it ait half-life-aise waxen fignrea of the Holy Family, made by the very worst artist that ever lived, per- haps, and clothed in gandy, flimay drapery,* The Margravine need to bring hrr meals to this taUe and dine with the Holy Family. What an idea that was I What a grisly spectacle it must have been 1 Imagine it : lliose rigid, shock-headed fignres, with oorpsy complexions and fishy glass oyea, oc- cupying one side of' the table in the con* strained attitudes and dead *>xedneM that distinguish all men that are born t4 wax, and this wiinkled, smonlderirg old fire-eat«;r oc- cupying the oth'^r side, mumbling her prayers and munching r sansageain the ghostly stillness and shadowy indiatinctneas of a winter twilight. It makes one feel crawly even to think of it. In thia aordid place, and clothed, bedded and fed like a pattper, this strange princess lived and worshipped during two years, and in it she died. Two or threa haadr^d years ago, this would have made the poor den holy ground ; and the church would have set np a miracle- factory there and made plenty of money out of it. The den oould be moved into some portions of France and made a good property even now. * The Savionr was rej>re8entf d as a lad of about 16 years of age. This flgui-e had lost one eye. ^ A TRAMP ABROAD. ti CAkBTIR XXIL FroAi Raden-Baden in made ttl^ iMMe at oontent^ tnent { another feetore of it ii # bdoy»nt, boyiah gladneaa ; and a third ttiid Very con« ipioaoaa feature of itia one'a aenae of the re< mcteneaa Of the work-day world and hiii en-, tire emancipation from it atid ittf iiffaira. Thoae wooda atretdi aubrfikeil eteir a vaat region { and every irhere they are auch denae wooda, and ao aiiU, and ao piney and fra« grant. The atema of the treea are trim and atraight^ and in many plaeea ail the ground ia hidden for milea acder a thiok cosnion of moaa of a vivid green oolonr, with not b de> oayed or ragged apot iti ita fenrfa4e, and not a fallen leaf or broken twig to mar ita im- maetilate tidineaa. A rich datnedral gloom pertadea the pillared aialea ; ao (he atray flecka of annlight thatatiike'atmnk here and a boegh yonder are atMngly aeoented, and when they atrike the moaa they fairly aeem to burn. Bat the weirdeiit effiMt, and the moat enehantiag, ia that proJac«i by the diif aaed light of the low afternoon ana ; no aingle rav ia able to pieree ita way in.then, bat the.dif- faaed light takea oolonr frbm moaa and f6U> age, and pervadea the place like a faint, S[reen*iinted mist, the theatrical tire of fairy- and. The anggoaticn of myatery and the aaperaatural whi9h hannta the foreat at all timea, ia intensitied bv thia unearthly glow. >^'« fontid the Black Forcafc farmhoutea and ▼illagea all that the Black Fureat atoriea have pictured them. The flrat geunine apeoimen whioh we oame upon waa the manaion of a rich farmer and member of the oommou coun> oil of the parish or district. He waa an im* portatit peraonage in the land and so waa his wife also, of course. Hta daughter waa the 'catch' of the region, and ahe may be already entering into immortality aa the hereioe of one uf Auerbaoh'a novel for all I know. We ahall see, for if he puts her in I ahall reoog- niae her by her Black Foreat clothes, and her burned complexion, her plump figure, her fat hands, her dull expreaaion, her gentle apirit, her g«neroaa feet, her bonoetlesa head, abd the plaited taila of hemp-coloured hair i^ang- ing down her back. The bouae wa.' big enough for a hotel ; i' waa a hundred feet long and fifty wide, and ten feet high, from ground to eaves; but from the eves to the comh of the mighty roof waa aa much aa forty feet, or maybe even more. Thia roof waa of ancient mid coloured ^traw tiialek a (owt Ibiok^ and waa covered all over e:;oept a few tiiAing apoti, with a thriving and Inxaribtta grow t^ of green vegetation, mainly moaf. The iBoaalepa apotp were {ilaoei wlieife D^jM^ra had oeen m*aa,^y the aaertioQjO^ ibrigM new maafea M.yidlow aira^. Tha 6avea projected' ,iar 4owQ« Vk9 abeit^ Sg, kioapitabla wipga. Aorbaa the ebte that YK>i^ted the ^oad, and ahont ten .ltal)9vatnf ground ran , a narrow poroh« with a ^iibdaii railiog ; a row cf anidl win« dowa filled with v«rv email paaearloqlfed np- 09 the porch. Abovf were two or three other little window*, one oleai; up nnder tbo aharp apex o( tke roof. Befoire tka gronndf floor door waa a huge pile bt mutare. Tha dborof aaeoood-atorey itxoQ on titf aide of ^>>e honaa waa open, 'and occupied by. the rewt" elevation of a oew. Waa thia probably ihe drawfing-room t All ot the front half of the house from the grohi^d up teemed to be oor oupied by^'the pe<^e, ih^ oowa and ]Uio ohiekena,aVid all j^be rear l^alf by draught ani* mala and hay. But the chief featnra al) around thia houae waa the big heapa of maiip urb. Wa beoa>me very familiar with the fertil* iser ih the Foreat. We fell t^nconcioualy itU-^ the habit of judging of a.mali*a atatiba in Uie by th£s outward and eloquent aigq. dome* timi!a we aaid, ' Here ia a poor devil, that iji manifest.' When we aaw a atately accumu* lation we aaid, 'Here ia > banker,' When we encountered a country aeat' aunroanded by in Alpine pomp ol inanure, we aaid, * Doabtleaa a Duke Qyea here.' The importance of thia feature haa not been properly magnified in the Black Foreajb acoriea. Manure ia evidently the Black For- eater'a main treasure — bia coin^hia jewel, hia pride, bia Old Maater, hie kermioa, bia bric*a-brao, hia darling, bia title ^ public conaideration, envy, veneration, and hiafirat aoIicituHe when he geta ready to make hia will. The true Black Forest novel, if it ia ever written, will be akeletone^, woijnawbat in thia way : y T :^ 8 KBLETONS FOR BX4OK VOVtet HOTKU Rich old farmer, named Hoaa. Haa in* herited great wealth of manure, and by diligence haa added to it. It is doubled* starred in Baedeker.* The Black Foresfa artiat painta it — hia maaterpieoe. The king cornea to see it. GfAtchen Hubs, dadghter and heiress. Paul Hoch, young neighbonr, auitor for Gretchen'a hAud- oatensibly ; he really wanta the manure. Hooh haa a good many cart-loadaof the Black Foreat currency * When B tedeker'a guid books mention a thinff Hnd yui two aiara * * after it, it means '■ well worth visiting." M. T. ■I r. i ■" 66 ▲ TRAMP ABROAD. t'l 'm H'i II i himself, and therefore is a good oi^toh ; but he it Bordid, mean, and wiChopt iratipMot Whi»i'«as Gretohen is all s«iiiiintBt. and'sbetry. Bins Schiiildt, jroii^ neigh- bo«ri^tt)r6f s^ntimeu^ fkU ofjppetfy, IpvM 6r4lbhefi,'OV«^h«D lo^te him. Bal Ue has no maAare. Old'HtiBS fbrbidp bim tne house. Hii^eaft breaks. iMsdes aWi^ to'dl4 in ^e woods, far from iheoroelwond-forhe sayi bitterly, " WbAt li ititn«wiihoi^t man- ure f . ^ ■■• i . rinterral of six months] Paul Hooh oomes fdold Huss lu^d says, * I and at last as rich as yon re4uired.' Com* and view the pile. Old Hass Views it andsays, • It is suffioient^take 1^ f^; bf ha^py — meaniog Or^tchen. [taterval bf two W#e](S.] Weddina party assemble in old Bass's drawing room ; Hobh placid and oonteuti Gretdhen weeping over her hard fato. Enter old Hate's head booklceeper. Huss says tiefoely, ' I gave yon three Weeks to tind oat Why your books don't balanoe, and to prove thatyda are not a'idefanlter ; the time is up— tind me the missing property, pf you go toprisob as a thitff,' Bookkeeper ; ' I have found it.' 'Wli^ef Bookkeeper; sternly — tragically — ' In the bridegroom's pile t — behold the thief- -see aim blenon and tremble I' [Sensation.] Paul Hooh : * Lost, Lost I'—falls over the cow in a swoon and IS handsuffed. Oretohen : 'Saved!' Falls over the calf ifx a swoon of joy, bnt is oaoght in the arms of Hans Schmidt, who springs in at that ipoment. Old Huss : * Wha^, yon hero, vartet ? unhand the maid and ^uit the place ' iBlanM : still supporting the iuseUsible girl : ' Never 1 Cruel old man, know that I come witholaipu which even you cannot despise.' Huss' : * What, you ? name them.' Hans : ' Then listen. The world had for- saken me. I forsook the world. ' I wandered ia the solitude of the forest, longing for d«ath and (indiug none. I fed upoa roots, and in my bitterness I dug for the bitteresr, loathiug the sweeter kiod, Digginc, three days agone, I struck a manure mme I A Gol- couda» a limitless Bonanza, of *olid manure ! I can buy you atl, and have mountain ranges of manure left ! Ha-ha, now thou smilest a smile !' [Immenie sensation,) Exhibition of apecimens from the mine. Old, Huss, enthusiastically : * Wake heir up, shalce her np, noble young man, she is yours ! "^ Wedding takes place on Ihi spot ; bookkeeper re> stored to his office and emoluments ; Paul Hoch led cfiT to jail. The Bonanza king of the Black Forest liveo to a good old age, blessed with tite luve of his wife and his twenty-seveif ohildieiv ai^d the still sweeter envy of eveiybody around. ^ We toq|i/>vr noon mMl of fried troai vn* day atih«r]rlow Iuq^ in a very pretty vil* lage, (Otionhofei)) i^nd t^ep went intc the S^ubfio^m.to x^t apd sqioke. There we ound njse ortep Black Forest grandees ae* sepibled arowid a table. They wen the Comijitpn OouaoU »» ih*^ nsrisb. They had gathered, th«re at eiifht o'clook that morning to eleoi a new member, and they , had now been drinkii^g boer forir hours at the new membei-'aiezpeutei They were men of ^fty or fixty years of ag^, with grav.d good-Batur< ed Tiroes, and were all dressed in the coatume made familiar, to us by the Black ,Fure»t sto* ri^ ; .broad, i^pnd--*>a:'> A TRAMF AoROAD. 57 pedestruuiizinfl;ata. It •aemn to me that iathe. matter of inta'ieot the ant mnitt he a,(trangely oTfrrated bird, .Dortng many «ii(uni«rt, ncTK, I^iaraiW^tohed hint, when I ought to have.been la better bn»inea>> and I have not yet oome aoroaa s. living ant that aeem^ to have ; any riiiore aeoie than a dead ona^ I ::ef«r to the ordinary ant, of oourae ; I^ hud no ^xporianQe of thnae won- derfnl Swias and, Afnoaa onea which vote, keep drilled aroiieai hold alave a, and dispute about religioiD. Thoae particular ante may be all that th« naturaliati pfkintv theiQ, but I am persoadfid that the average ant is &sham. I, admit hie imdoatry, of ooune : be tie the hacdeat working ereatnre in the world — when anybody ia looking—but hie leather- he'tdeduvaa ia the point I make against him. Ha goeaont foraging, he makes a capture, and then what doea he do T Oo home ? Nor-hO' 8<>^9 *°y vbere bnthome. He doean't know where home is. Hia home may be only three feet away-^oo matter, he can't find it. He makes his capture, as I have said ; it ii generally something which can be of noaort of use to himself or anybcdy else; it is «BU|tlly seven times bigger than it ought tobejbe hnnta oat the awkwardest place to take hold of it t he lifts it bodily up in the air by inain force, and starts: not to- ' ward hoow. bnt in the opposite direction ; not .calmly and wisely, but with f frantio haste whiob i^ wasteful of hi" atrength ; he fetohea iw ftgaioat a pebble, instead of go- ing round it, he olimba over it backwards dragging hia booty after him, tumbles down on Uie-other aide, jumps up in a passion, kicks the dust off his clothes, moisteoa his iods, graba hia property viciously, yai\ka it ^his way, then that, shoves it ahead of him a moment, tgrna tail and lugs it after him another xioment, geta madder and madder, then preMntly hoists it into the air and goes tearing away .in an antirely new direc- tion ; oom«a to a weed ; it never oocura to him to go round it i no, he must olimb it ; and be doea climb it, dragging his worthless prnperty to tb? top-7 which is aa bright a thing to do as it would be for me to carry a sack of flour from Heidelberg to Faria by way of Stiaaburg ateeple ; whe^ he gets up there he finda that thAt is not the plsoe ;. takes a cursory glance at the sneuery and either climbs down again or tumbles down, and starta off once more — as usual, in • newjUnotioD. At the end of half anh'}ur,.he fetohes no within six inuhes of the.place he jtarted fiom. and laya hin- bardea downi meautime be has heenovejr all thoffvonnd for;two yardp artmnd, andclimb- ed aU the wfeds and pebbJeahaxame across. Now he wijpea the sweat f^om his brow, strokes his Itmha, and; then marohea aimlcaa- iy off, in as violent a hurry . as ever. He travflrswiagQod deiklof aig-4ag country^ i^nd W end by giiumblea, on his aame booty agflin. He doea not remember to have ever aeen it before ; he look 4 around to era which .i» not the way home, and grabs hi* bundle ai^d starta i he gpea through the san^e adventures heh^d before ;fipallyatopi.ito. rest, and a friend oomea along.. - Evidently the friend remarka that a. lapt year'a grasshopper leg ia a very noble acqu,i«itipn, jknd inquires where he got it. Evidently the proprietor does not remember exactly where he did get |t, but he thinks he got it ' around here aoma;Wh«re.' |Bvidently the friend iPOiH* tracts, to help him freight it. honw. Then, with jartginent peculiarly antic (pqa not intentional), they take hold of oppoaite enda of that grasshoppRr'a leg and begin to tug with all their might in opposite direc- tions. Presently they take a rest and con- fer together. They decide that something is wrong, they can't make out what. Then they go at it ag^in, just as beftire. Same fesalt. Mutual repriminatiooa follow. Evi- deptly each aoousea the other of being an obatruotioniat. They warm up, and tlo dis- - lite eodsi in a fight. They lock themselves ^ether and chew each other's jawsior a while; then they roll and tumble on the ground till one loses a horn or a leg and has to, haul off for/repairs. They make up and goto work again in the same old insane way, but the crippled ant is a^t.a disadvantage; tag as he may, the other one drags off the booty and him at the end of it. Instead of giviiig up, he hangs on, : and ^eta hia bhins bruised against every obstruocion that come? in the way. By and by, when that grasu. hopper's leg has been dragged all over the same old ground once more, it is finally dumped at about the ^pot where it origi- nally lay, the two perspiring anta inspect it thoughtfully, and decide that dried grass- hopper legs are a poor aort of property after all, and then each stai:ts off in a different direction to sae if he oan't iiad an old nail or aomethiug else that is heavy enough to afford enteruinmenc, and at the a»me time valueless enough to make an ant want to own it. There in the Black Foreal;, on the moun- tain side, I saw an ant go through with anoh a performance as this with a dead spider of fully ten timeg hia own w«/ight. The spid«r !=S A TRAMP ABROAD. yifu not qnit* dead, bnt too fur snno to rwUi Ha bftd » ronnd body tho tiia of a pe». The little Mk%— obtefvinn that I wm nu iniag— 'ioroed him oa hie bkok, Mttk uln ffeiiM into hie throAt, lifted him iato the eir Mdetartfld vigorooalv off with him, itamb- linfr over little pebble*, *■ ^pping en the ■pider'e leoe and tripping utmeelf vp, dras* gtrtg him backwardt, ihoTing him bAdify ahead, dragging him up stonei aix inohea u^h ioatead of going aroand thom, elimb< ing weeJa twenty timet hie owh height and Jumping from their mmmita~aod finally eaving him in the midile of the rOad to be oonflaoated by «oy fool of •■ ant that wanted him. I meaaared the gronnd. whieh thia «•• traveraed, an 1 arrived at the oonolnaion that what he hiMl acoompliahed inaide of twenty minatea wonld donatitnte aomo each job «a thia— relatively apeafcing— for a man ; to wit : to atrap two eight handred ponnrt honca together, etrry them eigbteen htandred feet^ mainly over (not aronnd) bowldera averaging six feet high, and in the oonnie of the journey climb np and jamp from the top of one preoipioe like Niagara, and three ateeplea, eaoh a hundred and twenty feot high ; and then pat the horaea down, in an exposed plaoe, without aaybody to watoh them, and go off to indnlge io aome other idiotic miracle for vaaity'a aake. Science haa recently discovered tha\the ant doea not lay ap anything for winter nse. Thie will knock him oat of literatare, to some extent. He dnea not work, exoept whea people are looking, and only then when the obaerver haa a green, naturaliatio look, and aeema to be takins notea. Thia •moanta to deception, and will injure him for the Sunday tohoola. fie has not jndg- meat eaoagh to know what ia good to eat from what isn't Thia amounta to igaor* aaoe, and will impair the world'a reapecs for him. He cannot atroU aroaad a atamp and find hia way home agAin. Thia amoanta to i'iiotoy, and once the damagias fact ia eatab- liahed, thonghtful people will ceaae to look npoB him, the aentimental will oeaae to fondle him. Hia vaanted indastry ia bat a vanity of no effect, aiace he never seta home with anything he atarta with, ^ia diapoeea of the laat remnaat of his reputation and wholly daatroya liia main aaefulneaa at a moral agent, ainoe it will make the alnggard heBi> tate to g') to him any more. It is atrange beyond eomprehenaion, that ab manifest a hambag aa the aat haa beea able to fool ao many natinna and keep it up ao many agea and not be fonod oak The ant ia atroag, bat wo aaw another strong thiosr, where we had not auapfoted tha preaence of mnoh muaoular power before. A tosdatool — that vavetable which apringa to foil growth in a aingle night- had torn loose and lifted ajmatted mass of pine acedlea and dirt of twice ita own bulk into the air, and' anpported it there Hke « eolama aop« porting a abed. Ten thoaaand toadatoola, with tae riffbt pnrebAae, oould lift a man, I aappoae. Bal what good woald it do ? All oar afoemeon'a progreaa had be^a np hill, Abeat five or half'paat we reaOhed the aummit, aad all of a aaddea the dense car* taia of the forest parted, aad wa looked down iato a deep $ad beavtifel gorge, and oat over a wide panorama of wooded moantaina with their aammita abiaing ia the ana aad their glad«*farrowed aidea dimmed with pnrple ahade. The gorge aader our feet— oallM Al?c T^ieiligea— Affordtd room in the graasy level at ita head for a ooey tad delightful human neat, drnt away from tha world aad ita botberatiooa, aad oonaeqnently' the monkt of the old titttea had not failed to apy it oat t haid here w«re the browa and oomety raina of their oharch avd convent to prove that prieata had aa fine an instinct aeven handred yeara ago in ferreting oat the ebflioeet nooka and corners in the land aa ftieata have to-day. A big hotel orowda thie raina a little, now, and drivea a briak trade With aummer tour* lata. We deacended into the gorgO and had a aupper which would have been ve^y aatia* faotenr if the tront had not beea boiled. The Oermaaa Are pretty aare to boll some jaw and the flapping of the sympa- thetio ear. And wh»t a motley Tsriety of suVjeots a couple of people will casually rake over in the course of a day's tramp i There being no constraint, a change of subject is always in order, and so a bddy is not likely to keep pegging at a single topic until it grows tire* some. We disuusaed everything we knew, during the first fifteen or twenty minntes, that moring, and then branched out into the glad, free, bouuiUeaa realm of the things we werts not certain about. IJat ris said that if the best writer in the woiLlonce got the slovenly h&bitof doubling up his " have's " he could a'dver get rid of it while he lived.' That is to say if a man gets the habit of saying, have liked to have known more instead of saying simply and s should have liked to know more about it,' taat man's disease is incurable. Harris paid that this sort of lapse is to be found in every copy of every newspaper that has ever been printed in EojjIiKh, aud in nl uost all of our books. He said he had observed it in Kirk- ham's grammar and in Maoaulay. Harris believed that milk-teeth are commoner in mrib's mouths than those *doubled-np have's.'* That changed the subject to dentistry. ! said I believed the average man dreaded tooth pulling more than amputatioit, and that he would yell quicker under the former ' I should about it,' operatlmi than bewoald dndc thelattei^. The philosopher Hai4ls said thait the average man would net yell in either ease if he had an andienoa, , Then he eontinaed :— *' When ofii brigade Aral went intoeamp on the Potomao, we need t*> be brought up atanding, oco|hi ^s the conversa- tion melted out of one of tSese snlijeots •nd into the next, until the to^Mc of skele- tons raised up Nieodemus Dr^ge (,nt of the deep srave in my memory where he Sad lain buiien and forgotten for twenty live years. When I was a boy in a printing i>fi^ie in Missouri, a loose- jointed, long-leugeti, tuw^ hesded, jeans-dad, oountritied cub of about sixteen ionnged in one day, and without re- moving his hands from the depths of hia trousers pockets or taking off hi* faded ruin ofadouvhhat, whose broken brim hung limp and ragged about his eyes and ears like a bug-eaten cabbage leaf, scared indifferently around, then leaned his kip against the edi- tor's table, crossed bis mighty bro^nns, aimed at a distant fly from a crevice ia bis upper teeth, laid him low, aud aaid with ooniposurPy <>) j a«>f* « HjU, • VVbar a the bosa r * I am the boss,' Said the editor, following ^ I d) not know that there have not bceii uiu- menta in the course ot the pr^tie MM, 't ftin'l likoly f ' WoU, I doa'i koow. WoaU yoa Uko to iMtnitr * P*|i'« M po' k« oMk't ran no no mo/ lo I )ir»Qk to gife • ikow Minora if I kin, 'taiu't no 4iffuDoo what, r-i'm atroog ood hoArty, aod I don't tura my book oa nokiad of work, bard aar lof k. * Do yoo tbiuk you would Itko to laurn tho printing busioMa?* ' W«l], I 'lou't roiy k'yor a dam what I do loarn, •o'm I git a ohano* far to makf my way. I'djitcasiQOo laaro priat'n'a any- thing.' * Can yoo road t' •Ya.,-middlin'.' 'VWritor . ' WoU, !>• Med poopio ooald lay OTor mo Hur.' •Olplprr * Not good ODOo^h to kMp atoro, I don't treokon, but up m fur m tw«lvetwelvo I ain't no slouoh. 'i'othor side of that ia what iiits me.' ' Whore ia yoar homo f * I'm fm old Shelby.' * What'* yoor father'* religioaa denomina- tion f ' Him ? 0, bo's a Uaokemith. ' * No, no,>-I don'femean hia tr«de. What'i b\» religions denomination ?' * 0,<-I didn't understand you befo*. He'i a FrMmaMo." ' No no, you don't get my moaniug yet. What I mean is, doM he belong to any ohurch V * Now you're talkin' t Couldn't make out what you wm a tryin' to git through yo' h-'a-what thea f , 'Wt^H, if ne done it a purpose, I reckon he wouldu's stand uo ohanoe,— he oughtn't to hare no ohaooe^ anyway, I'a most rotten: oerUia 'bout tbak'^ 'What is your n«me V 'Nioodemua Podge.' 'I think maybe youll do, Nioodfiuus. We'll gire you a trisL anyway.' •AllrightL' 'Whoa would yoa like to begin f •Now.' So, within tou minotM a'ter we had flrst glimpsed this aoodeaoript, he waa on* of as, aud with bis ooat off aiid hard at it. Bsvond that and of our establishment which WM fartbMt from the street, wm a deaerted garden, iMthleae, aud thickly grown with the bloomy and villainous 'jimpson' weed and it* common friend the stately sunflower^ In the midst of this mournful spot wm a decayed and aged litble 'f ram«)' houM with but uue room, one win- dow and ao ceiling, — it had been a smoke* booie a generatioQ before. Nioodeihos was given this lonoly.and ghostly den m a bad ohamber. The villaga junartiM, recognized a treaaure in Jtiiioodemus right away,— a butt to play jokM on. It was OMy to see that he wm in* conceivably grMn and contidiug. George JouM bad the glory of perpetrating^ the firat juke on him ; he gave hiin a cigar with a tire- orMker in it, and winked to the crowd to come ; the thing expluiled preeently and awept away the bulk of Nicudemua's eye- brows and eyelMhes. lie simply aaid, — * 1 oqnsider them kind of seeg'yars dasi^erMme.'— and seemed to suspect nothing The next evening Nicodemus wa>laidQMrge and poured a bucket of ioe>water over him. One day, while Nicodemus was in »7i\m- miog, Tom MoElroy " tied " hia cluthes. Nioodamos made a bonfire of Tom's by way of retaliation. A third joke wm played upon Nicodemus, a day or two-lator — ^U9 wa)k«d up the middle aisle of the village church, Sunday night, with a ataring hand bill p^unetl between his shonldero. The. joker Hpeot the remainder of the night, after church, in the cellar of a doMrted house, and Nico-lemua eat on the cellar door till toward breakfast time to make sure that the prioouer irememberetl that if any noise was made, some rough treatment would be the consequence. ^ The oellait had two feet of staguaut water in it, and WM bottomed with six inches of soft mud. But I wander from tKe roint. It wm tho Bubjeotof skeletons that brought this buy back to n^y recollection. Before a very long time had elapsed, the village smartiea bfgan to feel an unoomfurtable consuiousueas of not /-;::-'■:- most rotten , Nioodfjuua. giof w* h«d flr«t WM 00* of lU. •kit eaUblithment •treel; wm « *ud tbiokly Qd vilUioous , friend the uire«eatly aad domue's eye. •ly naid, — of seeg'yani to euspeot I Nicodeinua i bucket of ras in uvm- bis oluthea. om'e by way Nicodemoe, [) the middle »day night, between hia e reiiiaiuder I cellar of a sac on the kst time to eraembered oine rough fnce. 'I'he irater in it, >es of Suit It was the C this buy 1 very long ties began ieas of not JILlliii'ufAmOAD. 01 hit and liif and aving made m very ■hioing raooeai out of heir attempta on tixa •impleton from " old Ihelby." £xpetimeQt«ra gr«# loaro* and hary. Now the yoang dootor oama to the >r«ioa«i Tbcrt w«a dolighfe and i^pptanse whoa.hepropoaed to Ni^a Kioodemna to death, and explained how he waa going to do it. He bad a noUa ntw ahalaton— the skalatou of the lata apd only looa^ oelehrity, Jimmy Finn, $h« villaaa dcankari— a griaiy Sieoa of property whioh ha bad tionght from immy Finn himaelf, at aaotion, for flfty doUara, nnder great ,oompetltioD. when Jimmy lay very aiok. in th* tan-yard a fort< night before hia dealh. Tha fifty doIUra hfid gone promptly fpr whiakay »nd had oon* aideii^y hurried np the oh^mge of ownei^hip in the skeleton. The dootor would put Jim- my Finn's iU laton in Mioodemoa'a l^ed I Thia was doue— Hboot h|Jf-paat ten in the CTening. About l^ijioderons' nanal bedtime — rmidnight— the vilj(ig» jdfiera oame orecp* ing atealthily ihrougii tba jjimpaon wceaa aiod annflQwera toward^ (iba lonely frame dan. Th«y reached the window imo peeped in^ There aat the loogrlpMed pauper, on hied, in a , vefy~ abort ahirt, nuthing mora ; fie wae diuigling legs contentedly back; and forih» wheezing tlie m1^to of "Camptown IUcfia*'ont of a paper-oveyiaid popb wbioh he wai preening againat hia month j by him lay #n«w Jewaharp^ a new top, » aolid ifdia8hot ; how judiciously we gfot odt of the way, and l«)t1>im come : and With what Eresence of .mind we picked him dp, and rushed him oflT, and set him on a rook when the perforitoanoe was over. ' We wc^ as mnoh herdes as saybody else, except Peter, and were so t-ecotrnfxed ;'we Were taken with Peter and Qte populace to Peter 'a motber'a odttftge, and there wis'kte bread and cheese, and drank milk and I'eer with everybody, and had a most 'sociable good time ; and when we left we bad' 4 hand shake f II around, and wei'e reoeividjn^ and shouting back Leb' icthl'a until a ttirn in the rokd separated ns from oMr oordiaf and kind< ly new friends forever. AVe accomplished onr nndertaklng. ' Af half, past eight in the evening wetteppod into Oppeheau. jnst eleven hours and £ baff outfromAllerheiligen,— 146 miles. This is the distance by perlomtftei^ ; the.gtilde book and the Imperial Ortlnante map* miOt^ it only ten and a quarter, — a eurprisiog blnn< der, for these two authorities are ntually ' singularly Accurate in the matter ol dia- tanoefcL ■ t ' ■ " ' ' ->'■•* ^ '■• .'Mi .i- .r..)u CflAPTElt XXm ■■''■fj^^l^ r;!l d* .^'t"W That waa a thorongbly ai^tisfkettoiy Widlr,^'! an^ tbe only one we Were ever to nave whidb ' waa all the way down bill. Wb took the train next morning and retunied to Bsden- Baden through fearful fo^efdnat. Bve^ seat waa crowded, too ; for it waa Sunday, and consequently everybody waa taking' a IIJ it ii < ▲ TAAMP ABROAD. " pUatar* " •sovraioik Hot t the aky wm Miovca.— »nd e M«M on«b ^oo, with no or»ck* in it to Ut Ip^ ^ tir. A« odd tiino for a piMiar* •sobHMl «rtftinly. 8an<)»y i« iho grM iif. m tb* eoiitln«nli, — th« frM d*T» th« bktpy dav. 0n baa bnaiad him with daath and f uoarala all tha waak. it will raat Urn to go to tha thaatra Sunday night and pat in two or thiaa hours langhlng at aoomsdy | if ha ia tirad with diggUlg ditohaa or tallTng troaa all tha waak, it will i^t him to lia qulat in tha boaia on Sunday i if tba band, tba arm, tha braio^ tha tongna* or any othar mamber, ia fatignad with manition, it is not to ba raatad by adding a day'a insnition ; but if a member ia fatigued with exertion, inaaitloft Is tha right rist f9r it Suoh is tha way iu wbiob tha Garmans seam tadefina tha Wotd * rest } ' that ia to say, the/ rest a member by ra* ei'a^ting, roott|Mratiag, raatoriog its forces. But wot definition is leas broad. Wa all rest •lifc* , on Sunday,— by aaoluding ousel vea and h«V>°< *^i whether that is the surest way io rest tlm moat of us or ftoi. The Oarmana make the actors, the pN|wh«n^ oto., work on Sunday. W* enoourii^ taa praaohars, tha editors, tha jprintera, ete., to work on 8|unday and imagine that none of the sin of it falls upon ua ; but I do not know how me are going to get around tha faet that if it ia nveog fo^ the printer to work at hia trade on Sundiy' it muat be cfua^jfi , wrong lur the praaoher'^towork at h||^ smoa tba oommandment baa made no ameption in ^is favour. Wa buy Monday morning's paper and read it, and thus an< ooi^ragp Soadiv-priatiag. But I shall narar l0 it sgaia, The Germans if member tha Sabbath day to keep it hnly, by ab^tkining from work. a«i oommanded t wa keep it holy by abstaining from work, aa commanded, and by aleo aoetaiaiDg from play, which ie not ooromanded. Perbape we eonatruotively break tha oommand to reat, beoautio tha reatiog we do ia in moat uaaea only a name, ' an fore the e|irvioea began. We arrived in eon- sideraMa styla^ too, for the landlord had ordered the first, earriage that could ba found, since there was no time to lose, and our ooaohman waa ao aplendidly liv'rried that wa ware probably miataken for. a brace of atray dukea ; elae why were we honoured with a paw all toontMlvee, away np among the vary elect at the left of tne chancel ? That was my first thought. In the paw directly in front )• in • niM* ' ooniolMie* )»den-Biid«n tims to fvr. ohuroh be< ved in eon« ^odlord b«d > ooold b* to Inte, *nd )y KVeried a for* braoa ve honoured Knp AinoDg • ohMieel f In the paw ld«rlj Iftdy, hw «id« Mt )t Ikc«^ and •ned; but olothei and 'ody'a heart wt th»tth« inding her* •"■•yed in ) feel lorry She tried '*yer book ua that»h«i to myttU, k distreued Jh botjravi lently the ftod in her •My, and Bg • slight ^ntpftthetio I turned tended to elinga got nto a look of fortune ieierve to >m badto mentally ' nif pro- • ion her, I )r emb«r- iger hold lidofber rpeoutid, ientm^rl W doiag. rhen the illeetion'pUte began kka ronndi ; the mode ,te people threw To penbiee, the noblea and he rinh oontri bated eilftr, but ihe laid • wentj nark gold pieoa upM tiie buok*reet jefore her with a aonndbg imp t I Mkid to nyetlf. 'ShehM parted with all herlittle hoard to buy the eonaideratton of tbeae an f {tying pcople^it ie a lorruwfal tpcotaole.' did nut venture to look around tnia time; but at the aevvioe eloMd, 1 taid to myifU, * Let them laugh, it is their opportunity t but at the door of tbia rburob they ■hall ■ee her atep into our itne carriage with or, and our gaudy ooaohman shall diive her borne.' Then sbe rose— and all the congregation atood while she walked down the aisle. She was the Empress of Qermany i No- the bad not been so much cmbarratted as I had supposed. My imagination had got started on the wrong toent, and that ia al- ways hopeleaa ; one is sure, then, to go atraight qn miitiaterpreting everything, dear through to the end. The ybuufc ladv with her imuerial Majestv was a maid of honour — and I had been taking her for one of her boarders, all the time. This is the only time I hare ever bad an Empress under my peraonal protection ; and considering my inexperience, I wonder,! got through with it so well. I should have been a little embarraseed myself if I had known < arlier what sort of a contract I had on my 1 ands. We found that the Enprees had bo ate hia supper. The iaatrnmenta imitated all theae touada with a narvelloua exaotneea. More than one man atarted to raiae hia umbrella when the atoca buret forth and the abeetaol nimio rain came driving by t it waa hardly postible to keep from putting your hand to your bat when the fl<)roe wind began to rage and abriek ; and it was nol poeaille t« refrain from starting when tboae sadden and chamt* ioiily realth lader oraahea arsreietlocie. I suppose the Fremi.sberg ia very low>grade musio i I knot/, indeed, that it muat be lowgradf musio, beeaaae it eo delight', d me, -varmed tae^ vov ed me, stirred me, uulified me, *a- raptured me, that I waa ful^ of > . ' all the time, and mad with entbusit, ,;.i. M:|r soul had never bad such a g-^urin^ out smoe I was born. Tbesoler . r.d majeatio obt't'- ing of the monka w ta n preaent enchanting air, and it aeemod to me that nothing but the very loweat of low-grade muaie eould be ■0 divinely beantifci. The great crowd which the Fremeraberg bad ciulcd out was another evidence that it waa low>grade muAio I for only^ the few are educated up to a point where bigb>grade muaic givea plea* sure. I have never heard enough olasaic moaio to be able to enjoy it I dislike the opera '^"oauae I want to love it and can't. I r'l ,:>- d there are two kinda of muaic— one ktu-: «bi'}h one feela, juat aa an oyater might, and another lort which rcqoirea a bibber facnity, a faculty which muat be ru^ijtsted and developed by teaching. Yet if bate mnaio givea certain of. na wioga, why ahould we want any other T But we do. We want it bccauae the higher and better like it. Bat we want it without giving it the neceaaary time and trouble ; so we cliHib into the upper tier, that dreaa circle, by a lie : we pretitid we like it. 1 know acviral of that aort of people — and I propoae to be one of them myaeli when I get home with my fine European education. And then there ia painting. What a red rag is to a bull. Turner's * (Slave Ship ' waa to nic, before I etndied Art. Mr. Buekin ia educated in art np to a point where that picture tbro'vrs him into as mad an ecatiicy f t #, ■# A TRAMP ABROAD. ■; iVi •Ml* of ploMnre m it nsed to throw me into one of ras;«, last year, when I was ignorant. His euUivation enables him— and me, now — to see water iu that glaring, yellow mad, tnd nstaral effects in thibee Inrid ezplosiciM of mixed" smoke and flame, and orimson sunset glories ; it reconciles him— and me, now — to the floating of iron oable-chsinfe and other nnflcAtable things ;' it reconciles ns to fishes swimming aronnd on top of the mud — I mean the water. The most of tixe pioturb .s a manifest impossibility — that ii to say, a lie ; and only rigid cultivation can enable a man to find the ti-uth in a lie. But it en- abled Mr. Raskin to doit, atadit has enabled me to do it, and I aim thankful for it. A UBton newspaper reporter went and took a look at the 'Slave Ship' flnunderioe about in the fierce conflagration of reds and yellows, and said it reminded him of a tbrtolse-shall cat having a fit in a platter of tomatoes. In Diy then uneduoated state, that went home to my noD'tcultivation. I thought here is a m(\n wi^h an uuobetrnoted eye. Mr, Rus- kio vitould have 'said : This persoU is an ass. This 18 what I would say now.* 'However, our business in Baden-Baden this time was to join our courier. I bad thought it best to hire one, as we should be in Italy, by and b^, and we did not know that language. Neither did he. We fouud him at tbe hotel, ready to take charge of us. I asked him if he Was * all fixed.' 'He said he was. That i»as very true. He had a trunk, two umall satchels, and an umbrella. I was to pay him 155 a month and railway fares. On the continent the railway fare on a tiunk is %bout the same ks it ia on a man. Oouriers do not have to pay any board and lodging. This seems a great fiaviag to the tourist— at first. It does cot occuf to t!ie tourist that sontehody pays that man's board and lodging. It occurs to him by and by, however, ia one of his lucid moments. ^4i*y' CHAPTER XXV. tc'RMSii: "Next morning we left in the train for Switzerland, and reached Lucerne about ten o'clock at night. The first discovery i made WAS that the bf auty of the lake had not been exgagerated. Within a day or two I made an- other discovery. This was that the lauded ohamois is not a wild goat ; that it is not a * Montti* after this was written, I happen- ed into the National Ga lory in London, and soon became so CaHuiiiat d with the Turner pic- tures thdt i uld badly Ket away from ihe ptuce. I went th re often, afieiwardp. inptininK toseolh') I est of the jcallery, but the Turofr rpell was t< o ntiontr: it could not ba shaken off, Howtver, ihe 'lurncrs wMcb aitiaced lue uiodt did not rem ud me of the * Sluvo bhip.j ' no periloin hunting it. black or brown creature The ohamois is. « no bi).ger than a mustard seed ^ yon do not have to go after if, it oomeflaQer yon ; it arrives in vaflt hferdt and ikipi ind scampers all over your h:)d^, inside' yoUV clothes ; thus it is not horned anim.-ll; tVat it is not shy ; that it does not avoi'hnmab feociety ] and there ia shy,, but extreih(6Iy sociable ; it is not afraid of man, on the contrary, it will attack him ; its 'bite is not dangerous, but neither is it pleasant ; its activity has not beeii over- stated — if you try to put your finger on it, it will skip a thousand times its own length at ope jump, and up eye is sharp enough to see where it lishts. A great deal of roman- tic nonsense has been written about the Swiss chamois and perils of hunting it, whereas thi) truth is that even women and children hunt it fearlessly ; the hunting is going on all the time, day and night, in bed and out of it : indeed eveiybody hunts it. It is poetic foc^ishness to hunt it with a gVQ ; very few people do that ; there id not out man in a million who can hit it with a gun. Tt is much easier to catch it than it is to shoot It, and only the experienced ohamois hunter can do either. Another cominoD piece of exaggeration is that about the "scarcitv" of the chamois. It, is tbe re* verse of scarce. Droves of 100,000.000 chamois are not uUusual in the Swiss hotels. Indeed they are so faumerons as to be a great pest. The romancerr always dress up the ohamois banter, iu a fanciful and piotu* reFque costume, wl^ereas the best way to huut this game is to do without any costume at all. The art'iefe pf commerce called ohnmois-skin is apotlier fraud ; nobody oould skin a chamois, it is too small. The creature is a humbug in every way, and everything that has been t^ritt'^n about it is sentimen* tal exaggeration, it was no pleasure to me to find the chamois out, foi* he had been one of my pet illusions ; all my life it had been my dream to se^e him in his native wildi some day, and enghge in the adventurous sport of ohasixg him from cliff to c*iff. It is no pleasure to me to eicpbse him,, but still it must be done, for when an lionest writer dis- covers an imposition it is his simple duty, to strip it bare and hurl it' doVn from its place of honour, no mitterwhln siuffiirs hy it ; any other course would render him unworthy of thn public coufiden^e. Lucerne is a charming place. It begins at the water's edge, \vitn a fringe of hotels, und scrambles up and spreads itseU over two or three sharp hills in a crowded, disorderly, but picturesque way, offering to tbe eye a heaped up confusion of red rocfn, quaint gables, dormer windows, toothpick steeples, ">'lSSi®K.-<«-ii»««»^-*«- ^^^^^I04m A TRAMP ABROAD. 6d [with here and tbere • bit of ftnoient embat- tled wall bendiuK itielf over the ridgea, worm-faahiott, and here and there an old ' aqnare tower of heavy masonry. And alio here and there a tow6 dlook with oidy one hand — a hand which stretches etraightaoroes the did and has no joint ia it ; suoh a clock helps ont the picture, bnt yon eannot tell the time of day by it. Between nld not purchase it after his gre»t deeds I'Ave been inscribed upon it There are artisans all about Switzerlwd whose trade it ia to bum these things upon the alpenstock of the tourist. And OMerve, a man is re- spected in Swititerland according to his alpenstock. I found I could get no atten- tion v^-re, while I carried an unbranded one. tie waver, branding ia not expensive. so I soon remedied that. The effect upon the next dethohment <)\ Harris — :iij/.*j*iwiv isp-: ' Yes — but name the State. ' ' : f ? - '"- • I named one State, Harris named another. We agreed upon one thing, however — that the young girl with the party was very beautiful, imd very tastefully dressed. Bnt we disagreed as to her age. I said she was eighteen, Harris said she was twenty. The dispute between us waxed warm and I finally said, with a pretence of being in earnent— ' Well, there is one way to settle the mat- ter-' I will go and ask her.' ' :, Harris said, sarcastically, * Certainly, that is the thing to do. All you need to do is to use the common formula over here : go and sav, ' I'm an Americui 1' Of course she will be s^lad to see you.' Then he minted that perhaps there wan no great danger of my venturing to speak to her. I said, ' I was only talking— I didn't in- tend to approach her, but I see that yon do not knew what an intrepid person I am. I am not afraid of any woman that walks. I will go and speak to this yonng girl.' The thing I had in my mind was not dif- ficult. I meant to address her in the moat respectful way, to ask|her to pardon me if her strong resemblance to a formnr aoquaiut- anoe of mine was deceiving me ; and when she should reply that the name I mentioned was not the name she bore, I meant tn * '- «s ▲ TUAMP ABROAD. '.ft; pardon agAin, moat raapaotfolly, and ratinv There woald be no hann dona. I walked to her table, bowed to the gentleman, then <-.urned to her and waa about to begin my little apeeoh when ihe ejnlaimied — ' I knew I waan't miataken— I to)d John it waa yon I Jotai aaid it probal^ «aan% but I knew I waa right. I aaid yea would reoogDise me preaently and oome over ; and I'm glad yon did, for I ahooldn't have felt muoh flattered if yon had gone ont of thia room without reoo^iiing me. Sit down, Bit down— how odd it i« — yon are the last peraon I waa efrer ezpeoting to ••• again.' Thia waa • atapefying aor^riMk It took my wita elear away, for anuatoirtk How> ever, ahe shook hjmda o iri^ a thousand tails is. a topio whioh a perefali ' oanaot talk upon .fluontly and in- struetivel^ without more or less preparatd,\$»f^-»vm--m,iSm^-:ikf'iSh^ — ▲ TBAMP ABROAD. 67 ouaed tha one that died, too — one tb»t I never faw. What did you call that one ? ' I waa onii of neutral namea, but as the child was de*d and the had never leen it, I thought I miight risk a name for it and trnat to lupk. Ttierefore I said — * I called that one Thomas Henry.' She saMt musingly— * That is Yery singular ■ very singu* lar.' I sat still and let the odd sweat run down. I was in a sood deal of trouble, but I be- lieved I cocid worry through if she wouldn't ask me to name anj more children. I wonflered ifhere tiie lightning was |;oing to strike next. She was still ruminating over that last child's title, but presently she said— ' I have always been sorry yon were away a^ the time — I would have had you name my child.' * Your 'jhild I Are you man ' -d T ' 'I have been married thirteen .eara.' ' Chrisliened. you mean.' * No,'nuurried. The youth by your side is my son.' ' It secerns incredible — even impossible. I do not mean any harm by it, but would y^u mind telling me if you are any avtst ewhteen T —that is to say, will you tell me now old you are f ' ' I was just nineteen the day of the storm we were talking about. That was my birth- day.' That did not help matters mudi, as I did Dot know the date of the storm. I tried to think of some non-committal thing to say, to keep up my end of the talk and render my poverty in the matter of reminisnenoes as little noticeable as poasible, but I seemed to be about out of non-committal things. I wfts o.bout to say, * You haven't changed a bit sioce then,'^but that was risky. I thought of saying ' You have improved ever 80 much since then,' — but that wouldn't Hnawer, of course. I waa about to try a shy at the weather, for a saving change, when tlie ^irl slipped in ahead of me and said — ' How I have enjoyed this talk over those hapfiy old times — haven't you ? ' * 1 never have spent such a half hour in all iry life before 1 ' said I, with emotion ; and I could have added, with a near ap- pro«£h to truth, ' and I would rather be Boalpei than spend another one like it.' I waa hoUly grateful to be through with the ordoal, and was about to make my good-byes and get out, when the girl said — ' But there is one thing that is ever so puzzling to me.' ♦Why, what is that!' ' That dead child's name. What did yon sayit was!' Here was another bainij ;!«<«* to be in ; I had fori^tten tiie child's name ; I hadn't imagined it would be needed again. How- ever, I liad to pmtand to know, anyway, se I said— 'Joseph William.' The youth at, my aide corrected me, and said — ' No— Thomas Henry.' I thanked him — in words and atid, with trepidation : ' yes— I was thinking of another child that I named— I have named a great many, and I get them confused— this one was named Henry Thomoson — ' ' Thomas Henry,' cslmly. interposed the boy. 'I thanked him again— strictly in words, and stammered out : ' Thomas Henry — ^yes, Thomas Henry waa the poor child's name. I named him for Thomas -er— Thomas CarWle, the great author, you know — and Henry.— er — er — Henrv the Eighth. The parents were very grateful to have a child named Thomas Hen- ■7.' ' That makes it more singular than ever,' murmured my beautiful friend. •Does it? Why?' ' Because when the parents apeak of that child now, they always call it Susan Amelia.' That spiked my gun. I could not sa\ any* thin^. I was entirely out of verbal ehliqtu- ties ; to go further would be to lie^ and tnat I would not do ; so I simply sat stiU and suffered — sat mutely and resignedly there^ and sizzled — for I was being slowly fried to death in my own bluhes. Preseotily iim enemy laughed a happy laugh and 8»,id : ' I have enjoyed this talk over old tisc.ce, but you have not. I saw very soon tbaii >ou were only pretendiug to know me, and as I had wasted a compliment on you in the be- ginnine, I made up my mind «> punish you. And I have succeeded pretty welL I nras glad to see that you knew George and Tom and Darley, for I had never heard of them before, and therefore could|not be sure that you had ; and I was glad to learn the names of those imaginary children, too. One can get quite a tuud of information out of you if one goes at it cleverly. Mary and the storm, and the sweeping away of the forward boats, were facts— all the rest was fiction. Mary was my sister ; her full name was liary . Now do you remember me t ' ' Yes,' I said, ' I do remember you now ; and jrou are as hard hearted as you w<:re thirteen vears a^o in tltat ship, else }<■» wouldn't have punished me so. You havcu' c ^ §\ 68 • A TRAJ^I* ABROAD. vhui|(ed ytrar mtuN iior ycfsr penon in imy way at all ; yon look jait as young as von wire then, and you hare tranarnHMd a aeal of yoar comelieneM to Htdu fbie bojr. There — a tbAt ipeeoh moves yon any lefs fly the flag of truce, with the ift td er tta nding that I am coDqnnred and oonfeaa it.' All of which was agreed to and aoooittpliBh* ed on the apot. When I went back to Harria, I said : ' Now you lee what- a perion with talent and addven can do.' ' Excuse me, X see what a peraon of oolloe^ sal ignoronoe and aimpHoity can do. The idea of your going and intruding on a party of ati^ngen that way, and talking for half an hour ; why, I neTer heard of a man in his riuht mind doing such a thing before. What did you say to t^em 1 ' * I neveraaid any harm. I merely asked the cirl what her name was.' * 1 don't doubt it. Upon my word I dont. I think you were capable of it. It was stupid of me to let yon go over there and make such au exhibition of yourself. But you knurr I couldn't really believe yon would do such an inexcusable thing. What will people think of us ? But how did yon say it ? — I mean the manner of it. I hope yon were not abrupt.' * No, I was careful about that I said, "My friend and I would like to know what your name is, if you don't mind.'" 'No, that Was not abrupt There is a polish about it that does yon infinite credit And I am glad you put me in ; that was a dtrlioate attention which I appreciate at its full value. What did she do ? ' 'She didn't do anything in particular. She told me her name.' ' Simply told you her name. Do you mean to say she did not show any surprise ? ' ' Well, now I come to think, she did show something ; maybe it waa surprise ; I hadn't tihonght of that,— 'I took it tor grati- fication.' * O, r>"iii€ than gratifying to be assaulted by a strkuser with such a question as that Then what did yon do T ' * I offered my hand and the party gave me a shake.' ' I saw it I I did not believe my own eyos, At the time. Did the gentleman say anything about cutting your throat ? ' ' No> wiey all seemea glad to see me, aa far as I oould judge.' ' And do you know, I believe thay were. I think they said to themseves, '< Doubtless this curiosity has got away from his keeper —let ns amuse ourselves with him.' There %f of aec Yon sat aeooimtiiig down. ' tbt iktAt they is to other i faoile docilil^. aak yon to sit down T' ' No, they did not Mk me, bot I snppoM thoy did not think of it' ' You have an unerring instiiiot. What else did yoa do t What did yon talkfibontf ' Well I asked the girl bow old sUTwas ?' ' TJndonbtedly. Your dalicaoy ia beyond praise. €k> on, so on— don't mind my ap* parent misery— 1 always look so when I am ateeped in a profonnd and reverent joy. Oc on,, — she told yon her age ?' ' Yes, she told me her M^ and all abopt her mother, and her sranomothir, and her other iTelationa, and alfabont heraell' * Did she vohmteer these statistioii f * No, not exactly that I atked the qneitions and she answered them.' * Thi« is divine. Oo on — ^it u impossible that you forget to inquire into her politics ?' * No, I thought of that. She is a demo- crat her husband is a republican; and both of them are Baptists.' ' Hen husband ? Is« that child married T ' ■ ' She is not a child. She is married, and that is her husband who is there with her.' ' Has she any children T ' ,;' -'f y!^ * Yes,— seven and a half.' i;#l''^^ '^ ' That is impossible.' ' , ^ -^ t' ' No, she has them. She told me her- self.' * Well, but seven and a half ? How do you make out the half ? Where does the half come in ? ' ' That is a child which site had, by another husband, — not this one but another one, — so it is a stbp-uhild, and they do not count it full measure.' * Another hr..:band T Has she had another husband ? ' ' Yes, four. This one is number four. ' " ^ ' ' I do not believe a word of it It is im- possible, upon ito face. Is that hoy there her brother?"-^.'*. ;*' •'';;,-;7''--^* ;w.>ff:^ iu,;:-;!., • ' No, that is her son. He is her youngest He is not as old as he looks ; he is crly eleven and a half," * These things are all manifestly impos- sible. This is a wretched business. It is a plain case : they simply took your measure, and concluded to fill you up. They seem to have succeeded. I am glad I am not in the mess ; they may at least be charitable enongh to think thei>e Mn't a pair of ns. Are they going to stay here long t'^ , , 'No. t hey leave before noon. ' * ' *" " ' ^'' " ' Thereis [one man who is deenlv fipnttful for that How did you find out ? Yon asked, I suppose ! ' * No, nlong at first I inquired into their tr • . u A TBAMP ABROAD. 69 pUiw, in a ganer») way, and they laid thty wera goio^J;^ be here a week^and make tripi round abcd^ bnt toward the end of the inter« ■ yww when I gaid ^on and I would tear Monod wiii'i them with jplearave,and offered to bii:?g yoa over and» nntrodnoe yoo, they hee»^t aa the Strasburg epire if you die before I do. They wanted to know if I waa from the same " ettablishment " What did that they you hail mean by from, did they ? ;,*^ eetabliehment t' ^vi, 'I don't know; it never oocarred tome i^toaak.' , ** Well, I know. They meant an asylum — an idiot aayhrm, do yon understand ? So Y they do think there's a pair of us, attor all. f iKow what do you think of yourself V » , , ' Weill I don't know. I didn't know I was 'C 'doing any harm. I did not mean to do «uy harm. They were very nice ^ peof^, and they seemed to like me.' >;' ' Hands made some rude remarks and left for his bedroom, - to break some furniture, he said. He was a singularly irascible man ; ,4 any little thing would disturb his temper. '- I bad been well soorobed by the young woman, but no matter, I took it out of Harris. ■ One should idways ' get even ' in some way, else the sore plaoe will go on hurting. ,,,^ „^^ ,: ■.:.,.. .i-tr- f-'w; ■.:•■■ • . ■ i The n';>fkirsche w celebrated for its organ concerts. All summer loog the tourists flock to that church about six e'olook in the evening, and pay their frtiao, and listen to the noise. They don't stay to hear all of it, but get up and tramp out ov?* i«3 sounding •toue floor, meeting late comers who tramp in in a sounding and vigorous way. This ^tramping h;:.ck and forth is kept up nearly IliJl the time, and is aooented by the oon- } tinuous riamming of the door, and the ' coughing aud barking and sneezing of the crowd. Meantime the big organ is booming and orashing and thundering away, doing its best to prove that it is the biggert and loudest organ in £nrope, and that a tight little box of a ohuroh is the most favourable place to average and appreciate its powers in. It is true, there were some soft and meroiful passages ocoaaionaUy, bat thu tramp-taunp of th« tonrista only allowed ens to nt fitful gUmpaad of theOi, lo to speak. Than right away the organist would letgo another vdanoha. The oomiUeroe of LuMme oonsista mainly in gimomokery of tha loavonir sort; the ahopa aie paeked with Alpine crystals, photographs of suenevy, rand wooden and ivory oarvingq. -■ I will not conceal the fact that miniature figures of the Lion of lAosme are to be luA in them. Millions of them. But thmr are libels upon him, every one of them. There is a subtle something about the majestie padios oi the original which the oopjrist oannot get. Even the sun fails to get it ; both the photographer and the oarver give you a dying lion, and that is all. The shape is right, the attitude is right, the proportions are right, but that indescribable something which makes the Lion of Lucerne the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world, i> wanting. The lion lies in his lair in the perpendicu* lar face of a low eliff-— for he is carved from the living eock of tiie cliff. His eize is colos* sal, his attitude is noble. His head his bowed, the broken spear is sticking in his shoulder, his protecting paw lies upon the lilies oi Frsnoek Vines hang down the diff and wave in the wind, and a clear stream trickles from above and emptier into a pond at the base,: and in th«smoond the lion is mirrored, amoQg tiie water ilies. Around about are greec tress and grass. The place is a sheltered, rsposef si, wood- land nook, remote from noise and atir and confusion— and all thill is flt(iing,.for liens do die in such places, and not or> granite pedes* tals in public squares fenesd with fancy iron railings. The Lion of Luoeme would be im- pressivo ly where, but nowhere so impres- sive as ,vf)gre he is. Martyrdom is the luckiest fate that can befall some people. Louis XVI. did not die in his bed, consequently history is very gentle with him ; sbe is charitable toward his failings, and she tir.ds in him high virtues *7hich are not usually considered to be vir- . ;.eii when they are lodged in kings. She makes him out to be ^■:- rson with a meek and modest spirit th«. vaart of a female saint, and a wrong heud. None '.v" these qualities are kingly but the last. Taken to- getber they make a character ,. ' ioh would have fared harshly at the handh vi histoiy if ita owner had had the ill luck to miss mar- tjrrdom. With the best ittontions to do the right thing, he always managed to do the wrong one. Moreover, nothing could get the female saint out of him. He knew, irell ) 'M } ■- •f^ A TH A MP ABROAD. ■\t| enoagh, that in natioiul •merganoiw lia miut nob eoniider how he ought to aot, m c> man, %a% how ho ought to Mt m • king ; lo he honently tried to nnk the man and m the king— but it was a failnre^ he orly luooeeded in Deiaiig th«t female uaiak Ho waenotic- stant in leaaon, but out of eeaioo. Ho oonld not be penuaded to do a thin^ while it could do any good— he was iron, he was adamacit is his itubbomneai then— but as soon ar the thing had reached a point where it would be positivdy harmful to do it, do it he would, and nothing could stop him. He did not do it beeause it would im harmful, but because hs b<*ped it was not yet too lato to achieve by it the good which it would have dsne .2 £ppHad earlier. Ein compre- hensiou wmn ait' A (ni; a train or two b^^iind* hand. If a nKf-Jiin»l t<>a )i»-<^nir^ aDT.uita- ting, he could y).>tsm! lib^t iv ^ivikJ anyvhin/i; mor« than poulticing ; wi.\«i zMhaiv »ikvr tbat the mcrtifioatiou ti%d reachx.«l d.e > :v.e, ho first paroeived thM; the toe o«M oati^tig o£r-HM hecttt it off; i*a5 Le ns^ n; i tbu Itw at tbci kc«« Wiiea otheitu mi^' ^<:t^ the dim ease had reached th« *:hi^J3. 'B.v^ was good, and honest, -snd well meaning, in the mattei* of ckmiug navionAl diseaa^ss, but he .'':if>Ter could overtake one. As a private ir^;(n, he would hbvr< been lo«'abie; but viewed as a king he was stiiotly con- tomi^mie. Hie Av'B a most nnroyttl (career, but the pitiable spectacle in it, was his senti* mentsi tr(i«:^;bery to his Swiss guard on thiit mef'^r-r^blu 10th of August, whou he allowed tLt- e hearoos to be masoaored iu his CAUso, ac^ forbade them to shed the 'saorcd Freudr blood' purporting to beflow> ing in the veins of the red>cappod mob of iiaiai^roKat.i tha'^wts raging bronndthc palace. He aieant to be kingly, but he was only the female saint once more. Some of his biogra- pher* think th<%t upon thui occasion the spirit of Saint Louis had descended upon him. It must have i'ocnd pretty cramped qnart- ers. If Napoleon the First had stood in the shoeii of Louis XVI that day, instead of beiuj; me.c^y a casual and unknown looker- on, there k dd be no Lr.on of I:* ■^v>m\\A katrn* fallen short of completeness, or -cr .on might not have happened at ail, if M^rie zwsoinotie had made ttie unwise mistake? of nmi, \€h\'. born, The world ov ri4 a gi ^«»i deftl my ^)xt French B'svolniion, and eonserfnently to its two chief p'-otnoters, lA>v.is the j'< in thfii shops and evei^ wheic, that ^hey pj? sendy baoame as intolerable |to tht , and still more tired of seeing wooden imageii of the allsged chamois skipping about woodnn rooks, or ly- ing upon them in famDy groupa, or peering alartly op from behind them. The first day, I would have bought a hundred and fifty of these clocks if I had had the money— and I did buy three — but on the third day the disease had run ito course, I had convalesced and was in the market once more — trying tc sell. However, I had no luck ; which was jest M well, for the things will be pretty enough, no doubt, when^I get them home. For years my pet aversion had been the cuckoo dock ; now here I was, at laat, right in the creature's Lome ; so where- ever I went, that distressing 'hoo'hoo I hoo' hoo ! hoo'hoo I was always in my ears. For a nervous man, this was a fine state of things. Some sounds are hatet'uUer than others, but no sound is quite silly,, and aegravating as the cuckoo ^^''look, I think. I h" ttm carrying it home to a cer':i< I have always said that if ever happentsd, I would dr ium. What I mefi^t w. break one of his lego o^ ? sort ; but in Luoernr . could impair his minr . lasting, and more sat So I m>ught the cuokcv> cov- get homo with it, he is ' n^\ say in the mines. I th vi candidate — a book review so inane, and ' hoo'hoo ' of a ;i(ht one, and ■ i-erson ; for 'opportunity man an ill .lat I would ^thiog of that iM'.Hy saw that 1 lut would be more ♦■ciry eve/y way. vnd if I ever it,' as they of another om I could V^^^J^^ ,,».*.,,rW'?3«fii.w«|R««*w>-»s'J^ ■t^i^V td^jCiS^ . *»> i T^ ^i»i. ' »MI^ *< WTf^jfc.* A TRAMP ABROAD. 71 laabftnd J to • root Id loyal Tin Mativt'O miffht l^inot^ to ita Spin* >of the brbl€ or oame if I wanted to—bot aft«r thinking it over, I didn't hay him a olook. I oonldn't hi jure ku mind. We Tiaited the two long, eoTere4 wooden bridge! whioh ipan the gtMu and brilliant BeoM joat below where it goea planging and hnrrauiig out of the lake. Theae rambliiig^ ewaybaoked tnnnela are very attractive things with their alooved oatlooke upon the love^ ead inapiriting we^r, Iliey contain two or three hundred qoeer old piotnree, by old Swiaa maatera— old boae eign painten, who flonriahed before the decadence of art The lake ia alive with fiahea, plainly viaible to the eye, for the water ia verv dear. The pu-ipeta in f^ot of the hoteu were Tumally fringed with fiahera of all age*. One day I thong^t I would atop imd aee a fish oaught. The reanlt brought back to my mind, very forcibly, a ciroumatanoe which I had not thought of before for twelve yeara. ±I1U QUQ . #» w.«W ^.*^^^7i innii :^''^'>i} ')Fa/;j ;;i ■ •:- ..:•*.■ • ,>, THX UAK WHO PUT W AT OASSBY'S. When my odd friend Riley and I were newapaper oorreapondenta in Waahington, in the winter of '67, we were coming down Pennaylvania Avenue one night, near mid- night, in a driving storm of snow, when the flash of a street Isnap fell upon a man who was eagerly tearing along in the opposite dir<)ation. This man inatantly atoppea, and exclaimed : ' Thin ia lucky ! You are Mr. Riley, ain't youT* Riley waa the moat aelf-poaseased and aolemnly deliberate jperaon in the republic. He atopped, looked hie man over from head to frot, and Inally said — ' I am Mr. Riiey. Did you happen to be looking for me ? ' ' That'a juat what X waa doing,' aaid the man, joyoualy, ' and it'a the biga^eat luck in the world that I've found you. Mv name ia Lykina. I'm one of the teachers oi the high school — San Frsucisco, As scoo as I heard the S^n Francisco poet-mastership was \i»citt\'. . cr.nuii vp m> mind to get it — and her'' 'I .iio.' ' .ee,' said Riley, 'lowly, 'as you have .-<)uiarked, Mr. Lykina here jon are. And Lave yon got it T ' ' Well, aot exactly got it, but .Ae next tbinc to it. I've brought a petition, signed b} the Superintendent of Public Instruction, anu aU .he teachers, and by more than two hundred other people. Now I want yon, if j'ou'U be so good, to go around with me to the Pscific delegation, for 1 want to rush thip ^' tic through and get along home.' ' ;. i tht ' lacter ia ao pressing, you will prefeir tha^ we vWt the delegation to-night,' iai4 Rilcrf, in a voice whioh had nothing mocking in it— to an nnaocuatomed ear. ' 0, to-night, by all meana t I haven't got any time to fool around. I want their promise before I go to bed— I ain't the talk* mg kind, I'm the doing kind I ' X«« — ' — you've come to the right place for that. When did yon arrive ? ' ' Juat an hour ago.' ' When ore you intending to leave T ' ' For New York to-morrow evening- for San Franciaco next morning.' ' • Jnat ao- — What are you going to do to-morrow T' • Do I Why I've got to go to the Presi- dent with the petition and the delegation, and get the appointment, haven't I ? ' * X ea very true that ia cor- rect. And then what?' ' Executive seaaion of the Senate at 2 p. m., — ^gotto get the appointment confirmed — I reckon you'll grant that f . ' Yes, yea,' aaid Riley, medita- tively, ' you are right again. Then you take the train for New York m the evening, and tho steamer for San Franciao next morning ?' ' That's it— that's the way I map it out ?' Riley considered a while, and then aaid — ' You couldn't stay ^ . . a day . . . . well, say two days longer ?' ' Bless your soul, no I It'a not my atyle. I ain't a man to go fooling around — I'm a man that doea things, I tell yon.' The storm was rM[inf . the thick anow blowing in gnata. Kley atood ailent, ap- parently deep in a reverie, during a minute or more, then he looked up and aaid — ' Have you ever heard about that man who put up at Gadaby'a» once T But I aee you haven't.' He backed Mr. Lykina against an iron fence, buttonholed h:lm, fastened him witJi hia eye, like the ancient mariner, and pro* ceeded to unfold his narrative as placidly and peacefully as if we were all atretchod comfortably in a blossomy summer meadow instead of being persecuted by a wintry mid- night tempeat : ' I will tell you about that man. It waa inJackaon'stime. Oadsby's was the prin- cipal hotel, then. Well, thia m«n arrived from Teuneasee about nine o'clock, one morning, with u black coachman and a aplendid four horse carriage and an elegant dog, which he waa evidently fond and proud of ; he drove up before Gadsby's and the clerk and the landlord and everybody rush* ed out to take charge of hina, but he said, • Never mind' aud jumped out and told the ooachman to wait-said he hadn't time to take anything to eat, he only had a little n HAl ▲ TVJM^ A9B0AD. claim againit the govfnuneot to oollct, would ran a^nu the w»y, to the Treaiw^ and fetch the mosey, and then get right along back to TenneiMo, fot he wai in con* ■iderable of a harry. ' Well, abont eleven o'clock that night he came back and ordered a bed and tola them to pat tiie hcreed np e^id he would collect the claim in the mornint. Thia was in Jana- ary, yon andentand — Janaary 1834 — the 8d of Janaary — Wedneid^. ' Well, oc the Sth of Febrnarv, he told the fine carriage, a&d boaght a cheap second- hand one — laid it would aniwer joit aa well to take the money home in, and he didn't care for style. 'On the 11th of Auguit he sold a pair of the fine honei, — said he'd often thought a pair was better than four, to go over the rough mountsin roads with, where a body had to be careful about his driving, — and there wasn't so much of his claim but be could lUg the mooey home with a pair easy enough. • On the 13th of December he sold another horse, — said two warn't necessary to dri th&t old light vehicle with — in fact one coul snatch it along faster than was absolutely necesMry, now that it was good solid winter weather and the roads in splended condi- tion. ' On the seventeeth of February, 1835, be sold the old carriage and bought a cheap Beoond-band buggy, — ^aid a b'.*gay was just the trick to skim along mushy, slttshy early Boring roads with, and he had always want- ed to try a buggy on those monntahi roads, anyway. < On the 1st of August he sold the buggy and bought the remains of au old sulky, — said he just wanted to see those ^leen Ten- nasseans stare and gawk when they saw him come a-ripping along in a sulky,— 4idn't be* lieve they'd ever hear of a sulky in their' lives. ' Well, on the 20th of August he sold his .coloured coachman, — said he didn't need a coachman for a sulky, — wouldn't be room enough in it for two anyway, — and besides It wasn't every day that Providence sent a man a fool who was willins to pay nine hundred dollars for such a third-rate negro as that, — been wanting to get rid of the creature for years, but didn't like to throw him away. ' Eighteen months later, — that it to say, en the ISfch of Febraaty, 1837, — he sold the sulky and bought a saddle, — said horse- back riding was what the doctor had always recommended , him to take, and dog'd if Le wanted to risk his [neck going over those mountain roads on wheels in the dead of printer, not if he knew himielf , ' On the 9th of April be sold the saddle, said he wasn't going to ritk his lif» urith any perishable Middl»>girlh that «ver waa made, overarainjr, miry April read, while he conld ride bae wasting such a tarip aa that and such weather as this, on a horse, when there ain't anything in the world so sjdendid aa a tramp on foot through the fresh spring woods and evMr the eneery monatains, to a man that is a man,— and I can make my dog carry my claim in a little bundle any- way, when its collected. So to-morrow I'll be np bright and eariy, make my little old oolleietion, and mosev off to Tennessee, on my own bind legs, with a rousing Qood-bye, to Gads by 's. * Oq the 22Dd of June he sold his dog, — said 'Pern » dog, anyway, where you're just starting off on a rattling bully pleasure- tramp through the summer woods and hills. — perfect nuisance, — chases the squirrels, barks at everything, goes a capering and splattering around m thw fords,— man can't get any cbaDce to reflect and enjoy nature, — and I'd a blamed sight rather carry the claim myself, it's a mighty sight safer; a dog's mighty uncertain in a financial way, — always noticed it, — well, goodbye, boys,— last call,— I'm off for Tennessee with a good leg and a gay heart, earlv i\ the morning I' There was a pause and a silence,— ezoept the noise of the wind and the pelting anow. Mr. Lykinsfiaid, impatiently, — « - ' 'Well?' iol' Riley said,— -ol ' Well,— that was thirty years ago.' * ' Very well, very well,— what ofitf ' I'm great friends with that old patriarch. He comes every evening to tell me good-bye. I saw hi IT an hour ago, — he's off. for Tennes- see early to- morrow morning, —as usual ; said he r.olculated to get his claim throogh and be off before nieht-owls like me have turned out of bed. The tenrs were in his eyes, he was so glad he was going to see hie old 'Ten- nessee and his frienf^ once more.' Another silent paose. The • .ranger broke it,— •Is that all r ' ■ ^ to •That is all.' ' Well, for the time of nighv ^d the kind of night, it seems to me the story was full long enough. But what's it all for ?' '0, nothiag in particular.' ' "^''f's^ * ,.^, A TRAMP ABROAD. 78 ' WttU, where'i tb« poiut of it?' ' O, there ita't any particaUr point to it. Oaly» if yon are not in lOO rnnoh of • hurry to ruah off to San Francuoo with that po«tK>ffioe appointment^ Mr. Lykins, I'd aaviie you to *pat ap at Oads- by's ' for a epeU, and take it eaay. Oood- bye. God bleu y >a I' Souying, Riley blandly tamed on hie heel and left the aatoniehed lohoil teaoher standing there, a muaing and votionleris SHOW image ehining in th« broad glow of tiie street lamp. He never sot that po«t>offioe. To Ko baok to Luoeme and iti flihen, I oonoluded, after about nine hours' waiting, that the mAn' who propoaes to tarry till h« sedB aome body hook one of thoae wflU-fed and ezperienoed fiahers will find it wisdom to ' put up at Gadsby's ' and take it eaay. It is likely that a fiah has not been oau,'- almost straight up-and-down, sometimes, tha> one rould not imagine a man b^ing able to ker ;• < J" footing upon such a enrfaoe, yet there & ^ ; ^.sns, and thd Swiss people go up and down tiiem every day. Sometimes one of these monster precipices had the slight inclination of the huge ship* houses '.n dock yards— then hii^h aloft, toward the sky, it took a little stronger in* clinatiou, like that of a sunsard roof — and perc>isi on this dizzy mansard one's eye de- tected little things like martin boxes, an4 presently perceived that ihese were the dwellings of peasants-- r e^ry place for a home truly. And anpi; r ^ . , p" ^sant should walk in his sleep, or hi^ ciuid fall out of the front yard?— the friends would have a tedious long journey down out of those cloud heights lief ore they found the re- mains, ^nd yet thoae faraway homes looked ever so seductive, they were so remote from the troubled world, they, dozed in such an atmos- phere ol peace and dreams — surely no one who had learned to live up there would never want tO' live on a meaner leveL We swept through the prettiest little curving Arms of the lake, among these colos« sal green walls, enjoying new delights, al- V .'ys.as the stately panorama unfolded itself m^ ■1/ v., m n A TRAMP ABROAD. \f^ 'i i^ b«for« us and r«-rollfld Md hid ittalf behind u ) and BOW and than w« had the thrilling ni iqpriaa of bnrating aaddaslv apon a tra* ■•■dova white maaa like the diatant and dominating Jungfrao, or aome kindred >-■' - (, looming head and ahenldera above V>^ 'i tt led waate of leaaor Alpa. Onoe, while I waa knnorilj tt-j'^a^ in one of theae aorpriaea, and doIoK my beat to get all I poeeibly oonld of it while it akonld laat, I waa interrapted bj a young and eare'Iree ▼oioe, ' You're an Ameriean, I think — ao'm L' He waa about eighteen, or poaaibly nine* teen ; alender and of medium height ; open, frank, happy face ; a roatleaa but inde* pendent eye } a anub noae, which had the air of drawing ba< 1 with a decent reaenre from the ailky nev oru monataohe, below it until it ahould be introduoed : a loooely hung jaw, oaloclaittd to work eapily in the aooketa. He^or« a low>orowned, narrow- brimmed atraw hat, wiik a broad blue rib- bon around it whiok had ft white anchor embroidered on it in front ; nobby ahort- tailed ooat, pantaloom, • «t, all trim and neat and up with the faahion ; red-striped atookin^, very low quarter patent leather ahoea, tied with black ribbon ; blue ribbon around his neck, ,wide-open oollar; tiny diamond studd ; wrinklclem kida ; project- ing cuffa, faatdued with large ozydized ailver aloeTe-buttonn, bearing the device of a dog'a face — English pug. He carried a slim emu, surmounted with an English png's head with red glass eyes. Under his arm he carried a German gramm;\r— Otto's. His hair w^* abort, atraight and smooth, and presently when he turned his bead a moment, I saw that it was nicely parted behin A' \a all the time, now. Can't enter till I know German. I know oonsiderable Frenoh. I get along pretty well in Paria, or any- where where they apeak Frenoh. What hotel are yon etopping at f ' ' Schweitaerhof.' ' No 1 ia that ao ? I never aee you in the reception room. I go to the reception room a go>'>d ('• " ' .!>• time^ beeanae there'a so many Anaericanii thu , ' Paaaionately.* i?i -k. i . ' Have you felj^ bored, on tHa t. ip !f*.i ' Not all the time, part of it.' * That's it ! — you aee you ought to go around andjtet aoquainted, and talk. That's my way. That'a the way I alwaya do — I just go 'round, 'round, 'round, and talk, talk, talk— I never get bored. You been up t^«jR'fi^y««'-K n -.W v,-l' lu;.. OV. :■: • I ♦^hink so. ' What hotel you going to atop at ? ' ' I don't know. Is there more than one ? ' ' Three. You stop at Ute Schreiber— you'll find it- full of Americans. What ship did yon say yon came over in ? ' • City of Antwerp.' ' German, I guess. You going to Geneva ? ' ' fea.' ' What hotel you going to stop at ? • ,^ ^^,. Hot I del' Ecu de Geneve.' Don t you do it ! No Americans there ! You stop at one of those big hotels over the bridge — they're pack<>d fall of Americaoa.' ' But I want to practise my Arabic' ' Good gracious, do you speak Arabic?' ' Yes — we!l enough to get along.' ' Why, hang it, yon won't get along in Geneva — ^they don't speak Arabic, thejr apeak French. What hotel are you atopping at here ? ' ' Hotel PensioD-Beaurivage.' ' Sho, you ought to atop at the Sehweit- y«. nni things, they J-'l but a« Ir been up U •ies.' •What ' Sohrei • That'i Fall of A — alwaya body saya over in ? ' • Ville ' Frenc sage did . some Am And av too,— I hi Eoon him ntas I left me i him, he w oatared : Half ai bench in noble moi —a mono Nature's dal rouk Nature ▲ TRAM ABROAD. i0 torhof. Dirln't yua know the 8ohweiUerh<>f wu the best hotel in SiritMrUnd t Look at yout BMdeoker.' ' Vet, I know— but I had an idM there wtrn't any Ameriuana there.' ' No Amerioane ! Why blew yoar loul ! it's jait alive with them ! I'm in the great reception room most all the time. I make lots ot acqoaintanoea thera. Not ai many ae I did at tirst, baeaoea now only the new one* •top in there— the others go right along through. Where are yon frcm ? ' ' Arkaniaw.' ' Is that so ? I'm from New Eneland— New Bloomtield'a my town when I'm at home. I'm having a mighty good time to- day, ain't yon ? ' • Divine.' ' That's what I caU it I like this knock- ing around, loose and easy, end making ao* qnaintanoes and talking. I know an Ameri- can, soon as I see him ; so I go and speak to him and make his acquaintance. I ain't ever bored, on a trip like this, if I can make new aoqnaintanoes and talk. I'm awful fond of talking whan I can get hold of the right kind of a person, ain't yon ? ' ' I prefer it to any other dissipation.' ' That's my notion, too. Now some |i' pie like to take a book and sit down and r' \ and read, and read, or moon around y^. nng at the lake or these mountains and things, bat that ain't my way ; no, sir, if they i'ke it, let 'em do it, I don't object ; bat a« lor rae, talking's what I like. Yon been up the Rigi? ' ...u, ^, ,.,„..., 'ies.' '■•■ ''•- "• ;.-.. ' What hotel 'iid yon stop att' t^ »,ii 'Schreiber.* ' That's the plaoa 1 — I stopped there too. Full of Americans, wasn't it T it always is —always is. That's what they say. Every- body says thai What ship did you come over in T ' •Villede Paris.' ' French, I reckon. What kind of a pas- sage did axonse me a minute, there's some Americans I haven't seen before.' And away he went. He went uninjured, too, — I had the murderous impulse to har- Eoon him in the back with my alpenstock, ut as I raised the weapon the disposition left me ; I found I hadn't the heart to kill him, he was such a joyous, innocent, good- natured numskull. Half an hour later I was sitting on a bench inspecting with strong interest, a noble monolith whioh we were skimming by, —a monolith not shaped by man, but by Nature's free great hand, — a massy pyrami- dal rock eighty feet high, devised by Nature ten million years ago against the f (lay when a man worthy ot it suuula need it for his monument. The time came at last^ and now this i,^rand remembrancer bears Schiller's name in huge letters upon its faoe. Curiously enon^h, this rook was not degraded or defiled u any way. It is said that two years ago a stranger let him- self down from the top of it with ropes and pulleys, and painted all over it, in blue let- ters bigger than those in Schiller's name, these words : 'TrySozodowt ;' ,U(V7 !* Buy SiiN Stove Polish ;* * Helmbold's Bcchc ; ' ' Trt Benzaune roB ihe Blood.' . He was captured, andfit turned out that he was an American. Upon his trial the jud^e said to him, — ' You are from a land where any insolent that wants to, is privileged to profane and insult Nature, and through her, Nature's Qod, if by so doing he can put a sordid Kinny in his pocket, ftit here the case is fferent. Because yon are a foreigner and ignorant, I will make your sentence light ; if you were a native I would deal strenuous- ly with you. — Hear and obey ; You will immediately remove every trace of your offensive work from the Schiller monument ; you pay a fine of ten thousand francs ; yon will suffer two years' imprisonment at hard labour ; you will then be hone- whipped, tarred and feathered, deprived of vonr ears, ridden on a rail to the confines of the canton, and banished forever. The severer penahifi are remitted in your case, — not as a ^race tu you, but to that great republic which had the misfortune to give you birth.' The steamer's benches were ranged back across the deck. My back hair was ming- ling innocently with the back hair of > a couple of ladies. Pierantly they were ad- drassed by some one aud I overheard this conversation : ' You are Amerios^oB, 1 think T So'm I. ' ' Yes, — we are Americans.' ' I knew it, — I can always tell them. What ship did you come over in ?' ' City of Chester.' ' O yes,— Inman line. We came in the Batavia,— Cnnard, you know. What kind a passage did you hive T ' '•' '.'"'.'*' '• •Pretty fair.' ; That was luck. We had it awful rough. Captain said he'd hardly ever seen it rougher. Where are yon from t ' • New Jersey' ' So'm I. No— I didn't mean that ; I'm from New England. New Bloomfield's ii ■i 7f •^ A TRAMi* ABROAD. k/ M jont ohildrNl T— belong mint ; ay ,,my pkM. Th«M , to both of you ? ' ' Only to oue ot u i tiiey aro iTriend is not married/ ' Singlo, I reokon ? So'm I. | Art |yoa two Iwuei travelling idone ? ' No— my hueband ia with ua.' 'Oar whole family ii along. Jt'e awfal elow, going around alona— don't yon think aof ' I aappoae it maat bo.' 'Hi, there's Mount Pilatttsf coming in eight again. Named after Pontine Pilate, you know, thmt shot the apule o£f William Tail's head. Guidebook teUs all about it, thev say. I didn't read it —an American told me. I don't read when I'm knookins around like thia, bavins a good time. Did you ever see the ohapel where William Tell ^ used to preach T' ' I did not know he ever preached there T' ' 0, yes he did. That American told me so. He don't ever shut ap his guide-book. He knows more Ibout this lake than the tishes • in it. Besides, they call it ' Telt's Chapel ' — you know that yourself. You ever beeu over here before T* • Yea.' 'I haven't. It's m^ first trip. But we've been all around— Paris and everywhere. I'm to enter Harvard next year. — Studying Ger- i man all the time now. Can't enter till I know German, This book's Otto's grammar. It's a mighty good book to get the ich habe gehabt habea's out of. But I don't really atudy when I'm knocking around this way. If the notion takes me, 1 just run over my little old ioh habe gehabt, du hast gehabt, er hat ){ebubc, wir haben gehabt, ihr habet gdhaht, biu haben gehabt — kind of 'Now-I- uyine-duwutu-sleep' fashion, vou know, aad after that, may>be I don't Suckle to it . agaio for three days. It's awful under- iQiuicg to the intellect, Gorman ia , you want to take it in small doses, or first vou know your brains all run together, and you feel ih m aioshing arouod in your head same as HO rnuca drawn hotter. But French is differeut ; French ain't anything. I ain't any ^ more afraid of French than a tramp's afraid ' of pie ; I can rattle off my little j'ai, tu as, il a, and the rest of it, just as easy as a-b-o. I get along pretty well m Paris, or anywhere they speak French. What hotel you stop- pinpatr * 'The Schweitzerhof. jsi^il;/*!* .^n^vfr' ' No ! ia that so ? I never see yon in tii'e big reception room. I go in there a good deal of the time, because there's so many Americans there. 7 make lots of acquain- tances. You been up the Rigi yet !' •Going.' 'xij*. 'Wetninkof it' • Wbftt hotel yon going to stop at ? ' I don't know.' * Well, then, yon stop at the Schreiber— itil f uU of Amerioaiis. What ahip did you oo(n«| over in T' 'City of Cheater.' ' O, yes, I remember I asked you that b«.| fore. Bat I always ask everybody what shj;l thev came over in, and soeometimee I forgotl and ask them again. You going to Geneva fl •Yes.' ' What hotel are yon going to stop at f * We expect to atop in a pension.' 'I don't hardly believe you'll like thaH there's very few Americans in the pensiota| What hotel are yon atopping at here ?' 'TheSohweitxerhof.' ' 0, yes, I asked yon that before, too. Ball I always ask everybfidy what hotel they'n stopping at, and ao I've got my n«)arl mixed up with hotels. But it makes talk, and I love to talk. It refreahes me up so don't it yoa— on a trip like this ? ' Yes — sometimea.'. ' Well, it does me, too. As long as I'l talking I never feel bored — ain't that the wijj with yon T ' 'Yes — ^generally. But there are cxcepj tions to the rule.' '0» of ooune. I don't care to to everybody myself. If a per* starts to jabber-jabbez-jabber abool scenery, and history, and pictun and all aorta of tiresome things, I m the fan-toda mighty soon. I aay " Well, I muat be going now — hope I'll aee you agaiol —and then I take a walk. Where yo^ from?' :-..,. 'NewJwMy.' ' Why, bother it aU, I asked you that 1 fore, too. Have you seen the Lion of .' cerne ? ' • Not yet* ' Nor I, either. But the man who told i about Mount Pilatus says it's one of things to see. It's twenty -eight feet loii{ It don't seem reasonable, but he said so, sn^ way. He aaw it yesterday: said it «i| dying then, so 1 reckon it is dead by tbij time ; but that ain't any matter, of coun they'll stuff it. Did you say the child are youra— or hers ?' . j t "* "^a i a . . ^ ■ 'Mine.' ' O, 80 you did. Are you going up no, I asked yon that. What ahi no, I asked yon that, too. W^hat l tel are yoa no^ yon told me that. me see. ... . nm O, what kind oil voy no, we've been over that grousl . A TRAMP ABROAD. 77 re ajre excen Itoob Um nm well, I believe that ie alL Bonjonr— I am ^my gltd to have made your aoqaaiataooe, ladfoe. Outen Tag/ CHAPTER XXVni. I The Rigi'Kalm iika impoefaig Alpiae maM, 6.000 feet hish, which atuida by itself, tad I oommanda a mighty proareot of blae lakei, green valleys and enowy mountain! — a com- I pact and magnifioent plotnre three handred miles in oiroamferenoe. The ascent is made by rail, or horsebaok, or on foot, aa one may I prefer. I and my agent panoplied onrselvea ID walking costume one bright morning, and started down the lake on the steamboat : we got ashore at the village of Waggis, three quarters of an hoar distant from Lnceme. I This village is at the foot of the monntain. We were soon tramping leisurely up the I leafy mule- path, and then the talk began to flow as usual. It was twelve o'clock noon, and a breezy, cloudless day ; theasoont was gt«d> I ual.and the glimpses, from under ourtaining boughs,of blue water,snd tiny sail boatp>. and beetling cliflfs, were as charming as glii'paes of dreamland. All the oircumstaooes wereper- feet— and the anticipations, too,for we should ■con be enjoying, for the first tim«, that wonderful speotMle, an Alpine sunrise— the object of our joomey. There was (apparent* ly) no real need to hurry, for the snide^book made the walking distance from Waggis to the summit only three hours and a quarter. I say 'apparently,' because the guide- book had already fooled ns once — about the distance from AUerheiligen to Oppen* eau — and for aught I knew it might be getting ready to fool ns again. We were only certain as to the altitades,— we calculat- ed to find ont for oorselvee how m»ny hours it is from the bottom to the top. The sum- mit is 6,U0O feet above the sea, but only 4,500 feet above the lake. When we had walked half an hour, we were fairly into the ■wing and hnmour of the undertaking, so we cleared for action ; that is to say, we got a I boy whom we met to carry our alpenstocks and satchels and overcoats and things for ns ; that left us free for businesa. I suppose we must have stopped oftener to stretch out on the grass in the shade and take a bit of a smoke than this boy was used to, for presently he asked if it had been our idea to hire him by the job, or by the year? We told him he could move along if he was in a harry. He said he wasn't in such a very particular harry, but he wanted to get to the top while he was young. We told him to clear out, then, and leave the thinn at the oppermost hotel and say we ahoald b e along presenthr. He said he would serorv us a hotel if he ooald. but if they were all full he would ask them to build another one and harry up and ^ the paiot and plaster dry against we arrived. Still gently chaff- ' og as he pushed ahead, op the trail, and oon disappeared. By six o'clock we were ' i>retty high up in the air, and the view of > ake and moantaina had greatly grown in^^ breadth and inter esi We nalted a while at a little pablio house, where we had bread and cheese and a qaart or two of fresh milk, oat on the poreb, with the big panorama aU before us,— and then moved on again. ^ " Tea minutes afterward we met a hot, red* ' faced man plunging down the mountain. ' with mighty strides, swingins his alpenstock - ahead of him and teking a grip on the ground ^ with its iron point to support these big ' strides. He stopped, fanned himself with ' his hat, swabbed the perspiration from his ^ face and neck with a red handkrchief, ; panted a momf nt or two, and asked how far ' it was to Waggis. I said three hoars. He ^ looked surprised, and said,— ^ * Why, it seems as if I could toss a biscuit into the lake frqm here, it's so dose oy. Is ' that an inn, there *' I said it was. 4 'Well,' said he, 'I can't stand another ' three hours, I've had enough for to-day ; ' I'll take abed there.' I askejL— v !•*(."• h* ' Are We nearly to the topt* • Nearly to the top ! Why, bless your soul, you haven't really started, yet.' 1 said we would put up at the inn, too. So we turned back and ordered a hot supper, and had quite a jolly evening of it with th> Enulishman. The German landlady gave us neat . oi. and nice beds, and when I and my agen; turned it, in was with the resolution to be up early and make the utmost of "'; our first Alpine sunrise. Bat of course '' we were dead tired, and slept like police- ' men ; so when we awcko in the morning and ran to the wini'.ow it was already too- ' late, because it was half past eleven It was a sharp disappointment. However. ' we ordered breakfast and told the landlady ' to call the Englishman, bit she said he was ' already up and off at daybreak, — and swear* '' ing mad about something or other. We >'^ could not find out what the matter was. He- '-' bad asked the landlady the altitode ef her place above the level of the lake, and she bad ■ ^ told him fourteen handred and ninety- five -*' feet. This was all that was said ; then he lost his temper. He said that be-- tween fools and guide-books, a man ' oould acquire ignorance enough in tweuty- 1.1 ^l^l f I Mil' . fx.^^^am^f--'^^^^^'-'^ ^ # 7S A TRAMP ABROAD. i 1 1 four honn in ft ooaiitry like thii to last him » year. Harris believed onr boy had beeo loading him np with nuaioformation ; and this was probably the caie, for hia epithet described that boy to a dot. MVe Kot onder way about the tarn of noon and palled oat for tne samviit again, with a fresh and vigoroas step. When we bad gone about two hundred yards, and •toi.'ped to rest, I glanced to the left while I was lighting my pipe, and in the distance de- tected a long worm of black smoke crawling lazily np the steep mountain. Of coarse that was the looomotiye. We propped our- selves on oar elbows at once, to gaze, fox we bad never seen a mountain nolwa;^ yet. Presently we could make out the train. It seemed incredible that that thing could - creep straight up a sharp slant like the roof of a bouse— but there it waSfand i^i was doing that very mirsde. Id the course of a cor .pie ef hours we reached a tine breezy al'atude where the little shepherd-huts had big stones all over their roofs to hold them down to the earth when the great stormu rage. The country was wild and rooky about here, but there were plenty of trees, plenty of moss, and grass. Aw&y off on the opposite shore of the lake we could see some vilLiges, and now for the first time we could observe the real diifer- ence between their proportions and those of the giant mountains at v/hose feet they slept. When one is in one of those villages it seems spacious, and its booses seem high and not out of proportion to the mountain that over- hangs them — ^but from our altitude, what a change I The mountains were bigger and grander than ever, as they stood there think- ing their solemn thouffhts with their heads in the drifting clouds, but the villages at their feet — when the pains-taking eye could trace them up and find them — were so re- duced, so almost invisible, and lay aoflat against the ground, that the exactest simile I can devise is to compare them to ant-de- posits of granulated dirt over-shadowed by the hn^e bulk of a cathedral The steam- boats skimming along under the stupendous precipices were diminished by distance to the daintiest litble^oys, the sail-boate and row-boats to shallops proper for fairies that keep house in the cups of lilies and ride to court an the backs of bumble-bees. Preseatly we came upon half a dozen sheep nibbling grass in the spray of a stream of clear water that sprang from a rook wall a hundred feet high, and all at once our ears were startled wit.h a melodious 'Lul. . . .1. . . .1. . . .lul-lul/abee-o-o-o t" p^al* tn^ joyously from a near bat invisible source. and recognized that we ware hearing for the iirse time the famous Alpine jo, contributed nothing to Nos. 5, fi, and 7, and during the remainder of the day hired the rest of the jodlers, at a frano apiece, not to jodel any more. There is somewhat too much of this jodling m the Alps. About the middle of the afternoon we passed through a prodigious natural gateway calied^he Felsenthor, formed by two enor- mous upright rocks, with a third lying across the top. There was a very attractive little hotel dose by, but our energies were net conquered yet, so we went on. Three hours afterwards we came to the railway track. It was planted straight up the mountain with the slant of a ladder that leans against a house, and it seemed to us that a man would need good nerves who pro- posed to travel up it or down it either. Daring the latter part of the afternoon we cooled our roasting interiors with ice-oold water. from ole&r streams, the only reaily satisfying water we had tasted since we left home, fur at the hotels on the continent they merely give yon a tumbler of ice to soiik your water in, and that only modifies itp hotness, doesn't make it cold. Water cuii only be made cold enough for summer com- fort by being prepared in a refrigerator or a closed ice-pitcher. Europeans say ice water impairs d..e8tion. How do they know?— they never drink any. At ten minutes past six we reached the Kaltbad station, where there is a spacious bote] with great verandahs which command a majestic expanse of lake and mountain scenery. We were pretty well fagged out, noWj but a« we did not wish to miss the Alpine sunrise, we got through with our dinner as quickly as possible and hurried off to bed. It was unspeakably comfortable to stretch our weary limbs be- r»B^." -t A TBAMP ABROAD. 7t tween the oool cbunp shMti. And how we did sleep t— for there Is no opUte like Alpine pedMtruuiinn. In the morning we both awoke and leaped oat of bed at the same instant and ren and stripped aside the window onrtain ; bat we sufiFered a bitter disappointment again : it was already half past three in the afternoon. We dressed sollenly and in iU spirits, each aoonsing the other of over-sleeping. Harris aaid if we had b/oaght the ooaner along, as we had ought to have done, we should not ha. hissed these sunrises. I said he knew rery well tiiat one of us .rould have had to ait up Mid wake the courier , and I added that we were having trouble enough to take care of ourselves, on this climb, without having; to take care of a courier besides. Daring breakfast our spirits came up a little, since we found by the guido-book that in the hotels on the summit the tourist is not left to t jst to luck for his sunrise, bat is roused betimes by a man who goes through the halls with a great Alpine horn, blowing blasts that would raise the dead. And there was another consoling thing : the guide-book said that up there on the summit the guests did not wait to dress much, but seized a red bed-blanket and sailed out arrayed like an Indian. This was good ; this would be ro* mantic ; two hundred and fifty people group- ed on the windy summit, with their hair fly- ing and their red blankets flapping, in the solemn presence of the snowy ranges and tho messenger splendours of the coming sdn, would be a stnkins and memorable spestaole. So it was Kood luck, not ill luck, that we had missed those other sunrises. We were informed by the guide-book that we were now 3.228 feet above the level of the lake,— therefore full two-thirds of our journey had been accomplished. We got away at a quarter past four p.m.; a hundred yards above the hotel tlie railway divided ; one track went straight up thn steep hill, the other one turned square off to the right, with a very slight grade. We took the lat- ter, and followed it more than a mile, turned a rocky oomer and came in sight of a hand' some new hoteh If vre had gone on, we should have arrived at the summit, but Harris preferred to ask a lot of questionn— as usual, of a man who didn't know any thing — and he told us to go back and follow the other route. We did sow We could ill afford this loss of tim.e. We climbed, and climbed ; and we kept on climbing ; we reached about forty summits, but Ihere was always another one just ahead. It came on to rain, and it rained in dead earnest. We were soaked through, and it was bitter cold. Next a smoky fog of clouds covered the whole region densely, and we took to the railway ties to keep from getting lost. Sometimes we slopped alonginanar* row path on the left hand side of the track, but hj and by when the fog blew aside a fittle, and we saw that we were treading the rampant of a pr^ipioe and that our lef twom path which led up a very steep rise to the left. We took it, and as soon as we had got far enough from the railway to render the find- ing it again an impossibility, the fog shnt down on us once more. We were in a bleak, unsheltered place now, and had tc trudge right along, in order to keep warm, though we rather expected to go over a precipice sooner or later. About nine o'clock we made an important discovery — ^that we were not in any path. We groped around a while ov. our luuids and knees, but could not find it ; so we sat down in the mud and the wet grass to wait. We were terrified into this by being saddenly con- fronted with a vast body which showed it- self vaguely for an in«t«uit. and in the next instant was smothered in the fog again. It %/a8 really the hotel we were after, mon- strously magnified by the fog, bat we took it for the face of a precipice, and decided not to try to claw it up. We sat there an hour, with chattering teeth and quivering bodies, and quarrelled over all sorts of trifles, but gave most of our attention to abusing each other for the stupidity of deserting the railway track. We sat with our b«}ks to that precipice, because what 'little wind there was came from that quarter. At some time or other the fog thinned a little ; we did net know when, for we were facing the empty universe and the thinness could not show ; but at last Harris happened to look around, and there stood a huge, dim, spectral hotel where the precipice had been. One could faintly discern the windows and chimneys, and a dull olurof lights. Our first eniotionwas deep, unutter- able gratitude, our next was a foolish rage, bom of the suspicion that possibly the hotel had bewi visible three-quarters of an hour while we sat there in those cold puddles quarrelling. Yes, it was the Rigi-Eulm hotel— the one that ooonpies the extreme summit, and whose remote little sparkle of lights we had often seen slinting high aloft among the stars from our balcony i:^}iict^:fmiM^''^ y ■%, f! A TBAMP ABROAD. i* K »w»y down yonder in Lnofirne. The crnaty portier and crusty olerka gave ns the early reeeption whioh their kind deal in in pros- percne times, but by mollifying them with •n extra display of obsequionsoese and fler* ^ity we finally got them to show as to a room whioh our boy h)id engaged for u«. We got into some dry olothing, and while our sapper was preparing we loafed for* sakenly through a couple of vaat oavemoaa drawing rooms, one of whioh had a stove in it. This stove was in a comer, and densely walled around with people. We could not get near the fire, so we moved at large in the arctic spaces, among a multitade of people who sat silent, smileiess, forlorn and diiver< ing— thinking what fools they were to come, perhaps. There were some Amerioani, and 6 It. We thuioaf the vast knd ruddy tile fierce ttV Mid in u clear it magnifi* lo the rest tsorbed in iverything |of the sun of tossing y ohaoa of 1 drape(i in th an opa- ring aplen- Msk oload- sea of dia* he cloren n a tinted n of their md tamed t and rich aid hardly runken eo- .Harria ex> wn f the inorn> This was peotacle— this gal- l two han- id women iot oaring r sets, aa IS specta- memoran- bing their B that ap- lever sair yoa are ay of an red with got op at og to see le.' I'd like with the Dg infla* t-0, no doubt — you'll get up with the hsngman one of these days. But you ought to be asham* ed to be jawing here like this, in a red blanket, on a forty foot scaffold on top of the Alps. And no end of people down here to boot ; this isn't any place for an exhibi- tion of temper.' And so the customary qoarrel went on. When the sun was fairly down, we slipped hack to the hotel in the charitaHle gloaming, and went to bed again. We had encounter' ed the horn blower on the way, and he had tried to collect compensation, not only for Bunounciog the sunset, which we did see, but for the sunrise, which we had totally missed ; but we said no, we only took our enlar rations o'n the ■ European plan ' — pay for what you get. He promised 1 1 ir.ake us hear his horn in the morning, if we were alive. CHAPTEK XXIX. He kept his word. We heard his horn and instantly got up. It was dark and cold and wretched. As I fumbled around for the matches, knocking things down with my quaking hands, I wisVied the sun would rise in the raiddin of the day, when it was warm and bright and cheerful, and one wasn't sleepy. We proceeded to dress by the gloom of a couple of sickly candles, but we could hardly button anything, our hands shook so. I thought of how many happy people there were in Europe, Asia aud America, and everywhere, who were sleep- ing peacefully in their beds and did not have to get up and see the Rigi sunrise- people who did not appreciate their advan- tage, as like as not, but would get up in the morning wanting more boons of Providence. While thinking these thoughts I yawned, in a rather ample way, and my teeth got hitched on a nail over the door, and whilst I was mounting a chair to free myself, Harris drew tho window curtain aud said : — • O, this ia luck I We shan't have to po out at all— yonder are the mountains, in full view.' That was glad news, indeed. It made us cheerful right away. One could see the grand Alpine masses dimly outlined against the blopjc fiimanent, und one or two faint stars blinking through rifta in the nieht. FuIIj olo'.hed, and wrapped in blankets, we huddh nr way up we met the crowd retam< ing — men and women dressed in all sorts of quet^r costumes, and exhibiting all degrees of cold and wretchedness in their gaits and countenances, A dozen still remained on the ground when we reached there, huddled together about the scaffold with their backs to tiiy bitter wind. They had their red- guide books open at the di;3igram of the view, and were painfully picking out the several mountains and trying to impress theii names and positions on their memoriei^. It was one of the saddast sights I ever saw. Two sides of this place were guarded bn railincR, to keep people from being blowy over the precipices, The view, looking sheer down into the broad valley eastward, from this great elevation- -(almost a perpendicular mile — was very quaint and curious. Coun< ties, towns, hilly ribs and ridges, wide stretches of green meadow, great forest tracts, winding streams, a dozen blue lakes, a flock of busy steamboats— we saw all this little world in unique circumstantiality of detail— saw it just as the birds see it — and all reduced to the smallest of scales and as sharply worked oat and tinished as a steel K 8t A TRAMP ABROAD. cAgrkving. The onmeroitB toy vill»gaa, with tiny spires prujeotiag oat of them, were just as the ebiMrea might have lefii them when done with play the day before ; the furett tntuts were dimiaished to cushions of moss ; 'Oae or two bi^ lakes were dwarfer? to ponds, the smaller ones to noddies — though they ■did not look like puddles, but like blue ear' drops which had fallen and lodged in slight deprefftions, conformable to their shapes, Mnong the mo«s buHs and the smooth lovels of dt^inty green farm-Iaad ; the miorosoopic ateam))oatB glided along, as in a city reser- voir, ttkiog a mighty time to cover the dis- taooe between ports which seemed only a yard ar '•■•'"', and the isthmus which sepa* rated ../o lakes looked as if ooe might stretah oMt on it and lie with both elbows io the watftr; yet we knew iovitible waggons were toiling across it Kfid Hudinc; the liin- tanoe a iedi«>us one. This beautiful minia- ture world had ) zactly the appearance of those ' relief maps ' which reproduce nature precisely, with the heights and depressions and other details graduate} to a reduced scale, and with t^n rocks, trees, lakes, etc., oolou'-ed mt'fi ntkU > I believdil we ..uuld walk down to Waggis or Vitznau in a day, but I knew we could go down by rail in about an hour, so I uhos^e the latter methoil. I wanted to see what it was like, anyway. The train came along about the middle of the forenoon, and an odi) thing it was. The lo ^emotive boilee how the stop was going to be managed. But it was very, simple : the train came sliding down and when it reached the right spot it just stopped — that was all there was 'to it ' — stopped on the steep incline, and when the exchange of passengers and baggage had been made, it moved off and went sliding down again. The train can be stopped any- where at a moment's notice. There wa't one curious effect, which I need not take the trouble to desorioe — because I can scissor a description of it out of the railway company's advertising pamphlet, and save my ink : P|' On the whole tour, particularly at the Descent, we undereo an optical illusion which often seems to be incredible. All the shrubs, tir-trees, stables, houses, etc., seem to be bent in a slanting direction, as by an immense pressure of air. They are iall standing awry, so much awry that the chalets and cottages of the peasants seen' to be tumbling down. Ic is the conspquenoe of the sttep loclination of the line. Those who are seated in the carriage do not observe that they are going down a declivity of 20 to 25° (their seats being bent down at their backs ) They mistake their carriage and its horizontal lines for a proper measure of the normal plain, and thert^fore ail the oV>jects outside which really are in a horiz-mtal position, must show a disproportion of 20 to 25° declivity, in regard to the Tnonntain.' By the time one reaches K iltba<1, he has acquired confidence in the railway, and he now ceases to try to ease the locomotive by holding back. Thcnccfoi ward he smokes his pipe in serenity, and g.izes out upon the A TRAMP ABROAD. 'h magnificent picture below and about bim with unfettered enjoynaent. There ia noth- ing to iaterrnpt the view or the breeze ^ it is like inspecting the world on the wing. However— to be exact — there ie one place Inhere the serenity lapses for a while : this is while one is crossing the i^ohnurrtobei Bridge, a frail structure which swings its gossamer frame down through the dizzy air, over a gorgp, liiie a vagrant spider-^trnnd. One has no difficulty in remembering his sins while tlie train is creeping down this bridge ; and he repents of them, too i though be sees, when ne gets to Vitznau, that he need not have done it— the bridge was per- fectly safe. f So ends the eventful trip which we made to the Kigi-Kulm to see an Alpine suarise. ' CHAPTER XXX. An hour's sail brought us to Lnoerne again. I judged it best to go to bed and rest several days, for I knew that the man who undertakes 'io make the tour of Europe on foot must take care of himself. Thinking over my plans, as mapped out, I perceived that they did not take in the Furka Pass, the Rhone Glacier, the Fins- teraarhorn, the Wetterhorn, etc. I imme- diately examined the guide book to see if these were important, and found they were ; in fact, a pedestrian tour of Europe oould not be complete without them. Of course that decided me at once to see them, for I never allow myself to do things by halves, or in a slurring, slip-shod way. I called ia my agent and instructed him to go without delay and make a careful examination of these noted pVioes, on foot, and bring me back a written report of the result, for iusei'iion in my book. I instruct- ed him to go to Hospeothal as quickly as possible, and make his grand start Irom there ; to extend his foot expedition as f«r as the Qiesbach fall, and return to me from thence by diligence or mule. I told him to take the courier with him. He objected to the courier, and with some show of reason, since he was about to ven- ture upon new and untried ground ; but I thoughu he might as well learn how to take care of the courier now as later, therefore J. enforced my point. I said that the trouble, delay and iuoouveuience of travelling with a courier were balanced by the deep respect which a courier's presence commands, and I must iusist that as much style be thrown into my j lUuieya as possible. So th« tN« c) .iH ire tbe wonders of these deep blue - caverns, and hear the rushing of waters through their subglacial channels, we struck out a course towards Tautre cote' and crossed the glacier successfully, a little above the i;ave f ruin which the infant Rhone takes its first bound from uuderthe grand precipice of ice. Half a mile below this we began to climb the floweiy side of the Mcienwand. One of our party started before the rest, but the 'HitZ'j' was so great,that we found 'ibm' quite exhausted, and lying at full length in fUf, shade of a large ' Gestein.' We sat down with him for a time, for all felt the heat ex- wtdiugly in the climb up thievery steep ' boiwoggoly,' and then we set out again to- gether, and arrived at last near the Dead ^Uu's Like, at the foot of the Siddhorn. Thi < lonely spot, onc& used for an extempore b':'viug place, after a sasguinary ' battue ' I etweeu the French and Austrian^, is the lerf. ctionof liesolation : there ie nothing in ti^at to mai*. the baud oi man, except the . 1 im^mimmmM ' ¥^'Si^^:'J'^^iifif'V''^ll^l^^!i0$:^ 1 m tl» A TRAMP ABROAD. m-f line of we*ther the Orimsel with the head of the ' a^fternoon we started for a walk ap the U.u!.eraar glacier, with the intention of, at all pvnnts, getting as far as the 'Hutte' which 13 u' ed as a sleeping place by most of t>iu3e viho cross the Strahleck Pass to (i J ^plwald. We got over the tedious ool- It cress of the ice it has changed the form of its extremity and formed a "ast cavern, as blue as the sky above, and rippled like a frozen ocean. A few steps out in the ' whoopjamboreehoo ' enabled us to walk completely under this, and feast our eyes uDon one of the levellest objects in creation. The glacier was all around divided by nnm* berless fissures of the same exquisite colour, and the Hnest wood-'erdbeeren' were grow- ing in abundance but a few yards from the ice. The inn stands in a ^ charmant ' spot close to the 'cote de la riviere,' which, lower down, forms the Eeichenbaoh fall, and em- bosomed in the richest of pinewoods, while the fine form of the Wellborn looking down upou it completes the enchanting,'bopple.'In the afternoon we walked over the great Scheideok to Orindewald, stopping; to pav a visit to the upper glacier by the way ; but we were again overtaken by bad ' hoggle- bamgullup and arrived at tbe hotel in ' Bolohe ' a state that the landlord's wardrobe was in great request. The clou is by this time seemed to have done their worst, for a lovely day succeeded, which we determined to devote to an ascent of the Faulhorn, We left Orindewald just as a thuuderstorm was dying away, and we hoped to find * guten Wetter " up above j but the rain, which had nearly ceased, began again, and we were struck by the rapidly in- creasiug 'froid' as we ascended. Two- thirds of the way up were completed when the rain was excbaDg^d for 'gnilliCi.' with which tbe ' boden ' was thickly covered, and before we arrived at the top the 'gnillic' and mist became so thick that we could not see one another at more than twenty ' poopao * distance, and it became difficult to pick our way over the rough and thickly covered uroand. Shivering -vith cold we turned into bed with a double allowauce of clothes, and slept comfortably while the wind howled • autour de la maison :' when I awoke, the wall and the window looked equalljr dark, but in another hour I found I could just see the form of the latter ; so 1 jumped out of bed and forced it open, though with difficultsr from the frost and the quantities of ' gnillic ' heaped up against it. A row of huge icicles bung down from the anything more wintry Id edge of the roof, asd than the whole ' anblick^ oonfd not well he imagined ; but the sudden appearance of the great mountains in front wai so itarUing that jl felt no inclination to move towards bed again. The snow which had oolleeted upon ' la fenetre' had inorei«ed the ' fineter* niBS oder der dunkelheit,' so that when I looked out I was surprised to find Hwt the daylight was considerable, and that the 'Bal- ragoomah ' would evidently rise before lon^r. Only the brightness of 'les otoiles' were still shining ; the sky wse cloudless overhead, tboush small' curling mists lay thousands of feet below us in the valleys, wreathed around the feet of the mountains, and adding to the splendxinr of their lofty summits. We were soon dressed and out of the house, watching the gradual approach of dawn, thoroughly absorbed in the first near view of tbe Obdand giantn, which broke upm us unexpectedly after the intense brcu rity of the evening before ' Kabaug< wakko songwashee Kum Wetterhom anaw- po ! ' cried some one, as that grand summit gleamed with the first rose of dawn ; and in a few moments the double crest of the Schreckhorn followed ' itn example ; peak after peak seemed warmed with life, the Jungf ran blushed even more beautifully tiiau her neighbours, and soon, from the Wetter- horn in the East to the Wildstrubel in the West, a long row of fires glowed upou mighty altars, truly worthy of the gods. The 'wlgw' was very severe ; our sleeping place oonld hardly be 'distinguee' from the snow around it, which had fallen to the depth of a 'flirk' durinethe past evening, and we heartily enjoyed a rough scramble 'enbas' to the Giesbaca falls, where we soon found a warm climate. At noon the day before a Orindewald the thermometer could not have stood at less than 100* Fahr. in the sun ; and in the evening, judging from the icicles formed, and the state of the windows, there must have been at least twelve 'dinablatter' of frost, thus giving a change oi 80° dur. og a few hours.' I said : ' You have done well, Harris ; this report is concise, compact, well expressed ; the lan- guage is crisp, the descriptions are vivid and not needlessly elaborated ; your report goes straight to the point, attends strictly to busmess, and doesn't fool around. It is in many ways an excellent document. But it has a fault— it ia too learned — it is much too learned. What is 'dingblatter' ? ' * Dingblatter is a Fiji word meaning ' de* grees.' ' You knew the English of it, then j" '0, yes.' : 88 r^ A TRAMP ABROAD. I! I 'i •Whalia'gnniiot" * 80 yon knew the KnglUh for that, too V )i * Why, certainly.' H • What doe* '• mmbglz " itud for f i * That ia Zuln for pedeatriao. ' * " While the form of the Wellhom loolc* iog down npon it oompldtee the enohantiog -«bopiie.' mat ia* hopple!"' • *Piotare. It'a Ohootaw.' *What>ia 'aohnawpr' ' « Valley. That ia Chooktaw, aim.' , 'Whatia •bolwoggoly f * i 'That ia Chineae for ««hill.*' * I • 'Kahkaaponeeka ?" " ' ' - ' Aacent Ohootaw.' ' ' But we were again OTertaken by bad *hogglebuDignllap." What doea hogglebnm* gullnp mean T' • That ia Chineae for "weather."' ' Is hogglebnmgnllup better than the Eog* liih word ? Ia it any more deeoriptive !' ' No, it meana jaat the aame.' ' And dingblatt«r and gnillic — and bopple, and sohnawp — are they any better than the Kngliah worda T' 'No, they mean jnat what the English onee do V ' Then why do you nae them T Why have you uaed all thia Chineae and Choctaw and Zalu rubbiah T' ' Becauae I didn't know any French but two or three worda, and I didn't know any Latin or Greek atalL' ' That ia nothine. Why should you want to uae foreign words, anyhow ?' ' To adorn my page. They all do it.' •Whoia "all!"^ * Everybody. Everybody that writes elefl;antly. Anybody haa a right to that wants to.' ' I think yon are mistaken.' I then pro* oeeded in the following scathing D>anner. ' When really learned men write books for other learned men to read, they are juatified in naing as many learned words as they please — their audience will understand them; but a man who writes a book for the gener- al public to read ia not juatified in disfigur- ing hia pages with untranalated foreign ex- preasiona. It is an insolence toward the majority of the purchasers, for it is a very frank and impudent way of saying, " (let the translations made yoni-self, if you want tliem, this book is not written for the ignorant ulasaea. " There are men who know a foreign language ao well and have uaed it so long in their daily life that they seem to discharge whole voUeya of it into their Engliah writ- ings anconscioualy, and so they omit to translate, as much as half the time. That ia a great cruelty to nine out of ten of the man's readers. What is the excuse for this ? The writer would say he only uses the foreign language where the delioauv of his point oannot be convened in English. Very well, then he writes his best things for the tenth man, and ha Ought to warn the other nine not to buy his book. However, the ezouae he offers 11 at least an excuse | but there is another set of men who are like von ; they know a word here and there, of a foreign language, or a few beffgarly little three- word phrases, filched from ihe back of ihe dictionary, and these they are continual- ly peppering into their literature, with a pretence of knowing that language— what excuse can they offer ? The .foreign words and phrases which they nae have their exact equivalent in a nobler language— En^« lish ; yet they think they " adorn thev page " when they say Strasse for k^treet. and Bannhof for rai way station, ruA ao on-— flaunting these fluttering rags of poverty in the reader's face,and imagining he will be ass enough to take them for the ait"; 0: untold riches held in reserve. I wj f Pjt your " learning " remain in your lOport ; you have as much right, I snppnae, to " adorn your page " with Zuln and Chinese and Chootaw mbbish, as others of your sort have to adorn theita with insolent odds and ends ■mouched from half a dozen learned tonguea whose a*b abs they don't even know.' When the musing spider steps upon the red hot shovel, he first exhibits a wild snr* prise, then he shrivels np. Similar was the effect of : these blistering worda upon the tranquil and nnsuspeoting agent. 1 can be dreadfully rough on a person when the mood takeame. ' CHAPTER XXXL We are now prepared for a considerable walk, — from Lucerne to Interlaken, over the Bmr.igPaaa. But at- the last moment the wen* ' ' a broad, hoiieat liable end to the roa i, ar. \ ii» ample roof hovera over tL home iu a proteoting caresn- iug way, proj«ctiog iu bhelt«ring eavea far outward. The quaint windowa are filled with little panea, and garoitihed with white mui«Iin curtaina, and brightened with boxea of blooming fiowera. Aoroaa the front uf the honao, and up the apreading eavea i>,nd along the fanoifal railinga of the ahallow porch, are elaborate carvings,— wreatha, fruita, arabesquea, veraea from Scripture, oamea, date* etc. The buildina; j « Uy of woo«* reauihh brown in tint, a very pleaa- ind col . -. It generally haa vines climbin , over It. 8et auch a house against the freau gi-ccn of the hillside, and it looka ever ao coDy and inviting and pictureeque, and ia a decidedly graoeful additioD to the land* Boape. One doea not find out what a hold the ohaltt has taken upon h ^ France, a prim, hideous, straight cp-and down thing, plastered ail over on the outside to look like stotgend goes that after the CruciHxion his conscieiice troubled him, and hu Hed from Jerasalem and waudi-red about the earth, weary rr life and a prey to tortures of the mmd. EveotUi»lly he hid hiniflelf away, on thr heights ot Mount Pilatu<<, and dwblt alone a'noDg the clou 1 8 ami c-ags for years ; but rest aud peace were btill denied him, so he findly [lutan end to his misery by drowning himselt. Presently we passed the place where a man of better odour was born. This was the child! eu's friend, Santa Claus, or St. J^ichc las. There are som-i uuacdmntable reputa- tions in the world. This saint's is an iustance. He haa ranked for a^es as the peculiar I'lieud of chii-lrcn, yet it appears he wasm t = ' >l a friend to his own. He had ten o c !m, and when fifty years old he left then, a^a ■ought out as dismal a refuse from the >vrt> aa possible^ 'and became a hermit in-order that he might refleot upon piona themea withoot being disturbed by ttie jovona aod other noise* from the nuisery, doubtleaa. Jndgingby Pilate and St. Nicholaa, there exista nr rule toe the conatmction of hermita, they reen . ade oat of all kinda of mateiiala But Pdate attended to the matter of ez< piatiuff hie ain vbila he Tvaa alive, whereas St. Nicholaa will probably have to go ou climbing down aooty ohimn(>ya, Chriatmaa £vt*, forever, and conferring kindneaaea oa other people'a child ren, to tpake up for de- serting bM own. Hia bonea are kept in » w arch in a village (Siohselo,) which we visited, and are naturally held in sreat rever* enoe. His portrait ia common In the farm honaea of the region, but ia believed by many to be bat an inaifferent likeneu. During hia hermit life, according to the legend, he par* took of the bread and wine of the comma* nion once a month, but all the rea^ uf the month he fasted. A constant marvel with as, aa we aped along the baiea of the ateep mountains on thia journey, waa, not that avalanohea ooonr, but that they are not oocnrring all the time. One doea not understand why rocki and land-alidea do not plunge down these de* olivities daily. A landslip occurred three quarters of a century ago, on the route from Arlh to Brannen, which waa a formidable thing. A mass of conglomerate two miles long, a thousand feet broad and a hundred feet thick, broke away from a cliff three thousand feet high aud huiled itself into the valley below, burying four villages and five ' Mudred peoi'le, as in a grave. We had such a beautiful day, and.snch endless pictures of limpid lakes, and green hills aiid valleys, and m.tjf.fltic mountains, and milky cataracts dancing down the steeps and gleaming in the bUn, that we could not help fce'ipg sweet toward all the world, ao we tiiei to diiuk all the milk, and cat all the grapes aud apricota and berriea, und buy all the bouquets of wild flowers which the little peasant boys and girls offered f>>r sale, but we had to retire from this con* tract, for it was too heavy. At short dis- tances — and they were entirely too short — ill along the road were groups of neat and comely children, with their wares nicely and temptiugly set forth in the grass under the shade trees, and as soon as we approached they ? warmed into the road, huMing out tbFiir baskets and milk bottles, aud ran be- side the carriage, barefoot and bareheaded and importuned us to buy. They seldom de* sisted early, but continuid to run and in- sist— beside the wagtjon whibi they could, and behind it until they lost breatii. Ihea i ■*'«*»#SS*:ii; ;iii-i;pr«*« i, A TRAMF ABROAD. •; ) 1 ^ I S thsT tamed And oh«iied a retorniiig carruge btoV to their tradiug poak »K»^n. After •evenil bonrb of this, without f -'.tprmis* •ioo, i JMoomei almott umoy.i^ I do not know what we ehonld b»VA don'' without the returoiUff carriasee 'u drawotf the pur< kuit However, there were plenty of these, loaded with duety tonrista and pil«d hii led with vainbows — to look upon theae thinga, they auid, wati If* look upon the uat poaaibility of t?^a oibume and the enchanting. Therefore, u l n^y, we talked mainly of theae oomiuv: ruaJera ; if we were conaoiouaof any limpatieoct), it waa to get there in favourable aeaaon ; if we felt any anxiety, it waa that the day perfect, and enable u to aee at their beat At we approached the Kaiseratuhl, a part of the haroeaa gave away. We were in dia- treaa for a moment, but only a moment. It waa the fore and-aft gear that waa broken — the thing that leada aft from the forward part of the horae and ia made fast to the thing that pulls the waggon. In America this would have been a heavy leathern atrap; but, all over the continent it ia nothing but a piece of rope the aize of your little finger — olotbea-lino ia what it ia. Caba use it, private carriaAea, freight carta and waggons, iM aorta of veniolea have it. Ia Munich I afterwarda aaw it used on a long waggon hden with hfty-fonr half-bairela of beer ; I had before noticed that the caba in Heidul- berg uaed it ;— not new rope, but rope that had been in use aince Abraham'a time — and I had felt nervous, sometimes, behind it when the cab waa tearing; down a hill. But I had long been accustomed to it now, and bad even became afraid of the leather atrap whioh belonged in ita pUc". Our driver got might remain thoae marvela a freah p'ieoe of clothes-line oat of hia looker and repaired the break in two ininutea. Bo mu(h for one European faahion. Every oouDtry lias lU own waya. It may interest the readir to know how 'Jny * put horaes to' on the ocntinent. The vm^', atandaupthe horaea oi. eaoh aide of tiie thing that projec a from the front end of the waggon, and then throws tie tangled meaa of gear on top of the horaea, and paHsea the thing that got:a for- ward, through a rinir, and hauia it aft, and paaaea tlie other thing through the other ring and hau'a it aft on the other side of the other horae, oi)po»ite to the Hrst one, after orosa- ing them and bringing the hMtse end back* and thei) buckles the other thing underneath the hone, and takea another thinor and wraps it around the thing I spoke of before, and puta an )ther thing ovt;r each horse's head, with broad flappers to it to keep the dust out of the horaea eyea, and puts the iron thing ill hia mouth for him to gnt hia teeth on, up bill, and brings the enrtk of these things ftft over his back, after buckling an* other cne aronnd un<'er hia neck to hold hia head up, and hitching another thing on a thing '.hat goea over hia shoulders to keep hia head up when he ia climbinj^ a Liil, and then t>ken the slaoi: of the thing whioh I m«nti> ined a while ago, and fetches it aft and maker it faat to the thing that pulla the waggc a, and handa the other thinga up to the di iiver to steer with. 1 never have bucklnd op a horae myself, but I do not think we do it that way. We had four very handsome horses, and the diiiver was very proud of his turn out. He W( uld bowl along on a reasonable trot, on th B highway, but when ho entered a village I he did it on a f uri >us run, and ac- comptnied it with a frenzy of ceaseleaa whip iirackinea that aounded like voUeya of musKitry. He tore through the narrow atreetii and around the aharp ourvea like a moving earthquake, showering his volkys aa be vent, and before him swept a contiun* oua tidal wave of scampering chiHren,ducks, oats, hnd muthera claaping babies which they had snatched out of the way of the oomiujC destruction ; and as this liv- ing wave washed aside, along the wall, its elements, being safe, forgot their fears and turned their a«hniring gaza upon that gal- lAut driver till he thundered around the next irve and waa lost to sight. He ^vAS a great man to those villagers, with his gaudy clotbea and his territio ways. Whenttver he stopped to have his cattle watertd and fed with loaves of bread, the villiag irs stood around admiring him while he swaggered about, the little boys gazed up at las faoe with liumbls homage, and the "•"W|'flll"S»"Wfl»' A TRAMP ABROAD. I hit lookiM utei. too. Every y interest t horaee to' nd» up the ftt projeo e •od then I top of the it got:! fur- it aft, and I other ring )f the other kfter oroaa- end back- andemeath r and wrapa >ernre, and irie'a head, p the duat ;8 the iron it hia teeth (Ik of these Ekltng an< bo hold hia thing on a ira to keep a Lill, and Dg which I )• it aft and puUa the linga up to ever have ,t I do not loraea, and i turn ont. table trot, entered a >, and ao- oeaaeleaa vuUeya of le narrow vea like » lis vollttys oontiun* ren,dacka, iea which ay of the tbia liv< wall, ita f«ara and that gal- round the villagers, ritic ways. bis cattle }read, the him while toys gazed ;u, and the landlord brought out foaming muga of beer and couversed proudly with him while he drauk. Then he mounted hia lofty box, ■wnnghis explosive whip^ and away he went again, like a atorm. I had not aeen M>v thing like thia before ainoe I waa a bov, and the stage used to 6ourish through the village with the duat flying and the horn tooting. When we reached the bate of the Kaiser- •tnhl, we took two more horses ; we had *- toil along with difflonlty for an hour an half or two hours, for the aacent was . very gradual, but when we passed the back bone and apuroaohed the atation, the dr'- Burpaaaed all his previous efforts in the ..^ of iush and clatter. He could not have six horses all the timi*, so he made the most of hia chance while he had it. Up to this point we had been in the heart of the William Tell region. The hero is not forfrotten, t»y any means, or held in doubtful veneration. His wooden image, with hia bow drawn, above the doora of taverns, was a frequent feature of the scenery. About noon we arrived at the foot of tho Brunig paas, and made a two hour atop at the village hotel, another of thoae^lean, pretty and thoroughly well kept innVnrhiob are auoh an astonishment to people who are accustomed to hotels of a dismally difftir- «nt pattern in remote oouutry towns. There was a lake here,in the lap of the great moun* tains, the greei slopes that rose toward the lower crags were graced with scattered Swiaa cottages nestling among miniature farms and gardens, and from out a leafy ambuaoade in the upper heighta tumbled a brawling cataract. Carriage after carriage, laden with tourista and truukd, arrived, and the quiet hotel was soon populous. We were early at the table d'hote and saw the people all come in. There were twenty-five, perhaps. They were of various nationalities, but ws were the only Americana. Nt-xt to me sat an English bride, and next to her sat her new husband whom she called ' Neddy,' though he was big enough and stalwart enough to be entitled to his full name. They had a pretty little lover's quarrel over what wine they ah) uld have. Neddy was for obeying the guidebook and taking the wine of the country ; but the bride said,— , ^ ' What, that nasty atuff ? ' ' It isn't nahsty. Pet, it's quite good.' 'It is nahsty.' 'No, it isn'c nahsty.' • It's <»ful nahsty, Neddy, and I shanh't drink it.' Then the question was, what ahe must llave t She said he knew very well that ahe never drank anything but champagne. 8bt added — 'You know very well papa alwayi haa champagne on his table, and I've alwayi been used to it.' Neddy made a playful pretence of being distressed about the expenie, and thia amossd her so much that ahe nearly exhausted her- self with laughter — and this pleased him so much that he repeated his jest a con|;>l« of times, and added new and killing varieties to When the bride finally recovered, she ^ Neddy a love-box on the arm with bar .u nd said with arch severity — Well, you would have me — nothing else nld do — to you'll have to nnake the best of bargain. Do order the champagne, lul dry.' So with a mnck groan which made her lautth again, Neddy ordered the champagne. The fact that this young woman had never moistened tho selvedge edge of bar soul with a less ple'oeian tipple than obam- pagne, had a marked and subduing effect upon Harris. He believed she belonged to the royal family. But I had my doubts. We heard two or three different langnagea spoken by people a4< the table and guessed out the nationalitirii of most of the guests to our satisfaction, but; we failed with an elder- ly gentlemno and tis wife and a young girl who sat opposite U9, and with a gentleman of about thikty-tive who sat three seata be- yond Harris. We did not hear any cf these speak. But finally the last named gentle- man left while we were not noticing, but we looked up as he reached the far end of the table. He stopped there a moment, and made his toilet with a pocket comb. So he was a German ; or else he had lived in Ger- man hotels long enough to catch the fashion. When the elderly couple and the young girl rose to leave, they bowed reBpectfi.lly to us. So, they were Germans, too. This national onstom ia worth six of the other one for ex- port. After dinner we talked with several Eng- lishmen, and they inflamed our desire to a hotter degree than ever, to see the sights of Meiringen from the hei^hts of the Brunig pass. They said the view was marvellous, and that one who had seen it ouoe could never forget it. They also spoke of the romantic nature of the road over the pass, and how in one place it had been cut through a flank of the solid rock, in such a way that the mountain overhung the tourist as he passed by ; and they furthermore said that the sharp turns in the road, and the abruptness of the descent, would I'l afford us we khould a thrilling go down experience, in 1 for flying il IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. m. 1.0 I.I I Li|Z8 |Z5 ■tt l&i 122 £f U° 12.0 IL25 III 1.4 M W, / y Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. MSEO (716)»73-4S03 iV k ^ \ 4 \ 4v '^ so A TRAMP k%T(OAJ). ipillop and ■era) to be if inning aronnd the ripga of « whirlwind, like a drop of whiakey deaoendioK the spirals of a oorkiorew. I |{ot all th« information oat of theee gentlemen thai we oonld need; and then, to make every thing complete, 1 asked them if a body oonld get hold of a little fmit or milk here and there, in cue of neoeseiW. They threw up 'their hands in speeoblese intimation that the ttaad was simply paved with refreshment pedlars. We were impatient to i,et away now, and the rest of our two hoar atop rather dragged. Bat finally the set time arrived and we began the ascent. Indeed h waa a wonderful road. It was smooth, and oom- pact and clean, and the side next the preoi- pices was gnanled all along by dressed stone posts about three feet high, plaoed at short 'distances apart. The msd oonld not have b^en built better if Napoleon the First had built it. He seems to have been the introduc- er of thesok-tof roads which fiarope now oM*. All literature which describes life as it exist- ed in England, France and Qermanv up to the close of the last centarjr, is filled with piot'nres of ooeches and carriages walldwing through these three countries in mad and slush half-wheel deep; but after Napoleon had floundered throngh a conquered kingdom he generally arransied things so that tM rest of the world could fo'i.ow dry shod. We went on climbing, hight^r and higher, 'and curving hither and thither, in the shade of noble wm>ds, and with a rich variety i^nd profusion of wild flfjwers all about ns; and glimpses of rony grasny backbones below us occupied by trim chalets and nibbling sheep, ' and other glimpses of far lower altitudes, 'where distance diminished the ohaletM to toys and obliterated the sheep altogether ; .hnd every now and then some ermined mon- arch of the Alps swung magnificently into view for a moment, then drifted past an in- tervening spur and disappeared again. It was an intoxicating trip, altogether ; the exceeding s:nse of satisfaction that fol- lows a good dinner added largely to the en- j'>yment; the having something especial to look forward to and mnse about, like the ap- proaching grandeurs of Meiriogen, sHarpened the sest. Smoking was never so ffO( \ before, solid comfort was never solider ; we lav back against the thick oushions, ailent^ medi* tative, steeped in felicity. • • • • • I rubbed my eyes, opened them and start- ed. I had been dreaming I was at sea, and it Iras a thrilling surpri«e to wake np and find land all around me. It took me a couple of seconds to ' some to,' as you may say t then I took in the situation. The horses 'were drinluag at a trough in the edge of a town, the driver was taking beer, Harris wss snoring at my side, the courier, with folded arms and bowed head, was cleeping on the box, twc dosen barefooted and bareheaded children were gathered about the carriage, with thvir haMS crossed behind, gssihg up with serious and innocent admiration at the dosing tourists baking them in the sun. Several small girh held night-capped babies nearly as big a* themselves in their arms, and even these fat babies seemed to take a sort of sluggish in* terest in ns. We had slept an hoar and a half and mist* ed sll the soeinery ! I did not need any> body to tell me that If I had been a girl, i I could have onrsed for vexation. As it wa\ I woke np the agent and gave him a piece of my mind. Instead of beinff bumili* tated, he odIj upbraided me for oeing so wanting in vigilance. He said he had ex* pected to improve his mind by coming tb Europe, but a man might travel to the ends of the earth with me and never see anything, for I was manifestly endowed with the very genius of ill luck. He even tried to get np some emotion about that poor courier, who neveAjjot a chance to see anything, on ac- connrof my heedlessness. Bat when I thought I had borne abont enongh of this kind of talk, I threatened to make Harris tramp back to the summit and make a report on that scenery, and this suggestion spikod hisbattory. We drove sullenly throngh Briena, dead to the seductions of its bewildering array of Swiss carvings and the clamorous hoo-hooing of its cuckoo docks, and bad not entirely re> covered our spirits when we rattled across the bridge over the rushing bine river and entered the pretty town of Interlaken. It was lust about sunset, and we had made tlw trip from Laceme in ten hours. CHAPTER XXXII. We located ourselves at the Jnngfran Hotel, one of those huge establishmenta which the needs of modem travel have created in every attractive spot on the con* tiuent. There waa a great gathering at din. ner, and as usnil one heard all sorts of Ian> gunges. The table d'hote was served by waitresses dressed in the quaint and comely contume of the Swiss peasants. This consists of a aim- pie gros de laine, tnmmad with ashes ol roaes, with overskirt of aaore bleu ventre ssint gris, out biaa on the off side, with facings of petit polonaise and narrow in* sertiuns of zt%te de fois gru backatitohed to the miso scene in the form of a jeii ▲ TSAMP JUjAOAD. •l d'eiprit. 1% givM to the wmmk m dngalttly piqumt and lulariDg Mpeot. One of these WaitreaaM, a wonaa of forty, bad aide whukera raaohing half way dowu her jaw. They were two flogers broad, dark in eoloar, pretty thick, and we hairs ware an inch long. One sees numy women on the oontinent with quite uonspicuons moostaohes, bat this was the only woman I saw who had reached the dignity of whiiketa. After dinner the guests of both sexes dis- tributed themselves about the front porches ,and the ornamental grounds belonging to the hotel, to enjoy the oool air ; but aa the twilight deepened toward darkness, they gathered themselves together in thataaddest and solemnest and moat constrained of all .paces, the great blank drawing-room which IS a chief feature of all coatinental summer hotels. There they grouped themselves about, in couples and threes, and mumbled inbatibed Toices. and looked timid and homeless and forlorn. There was a small piano in this room, a dat- tery, wheezy, asthmatio tiling, certainly the Tery- worst miscarriage in the way of apian ■ that tiie world has seen. In tnm, live or six dejected and.hometiok ladies approached it doubtiugly, gave it a single inquiring thump, and retired with the lockjaw. But the boss of that instrument was to come, nevertheless J and from my own country— from Arkansaw. She was a bran new bride, , innocent, girlish, happy in herself and her grave aod worshiping stripling of a husband; she was about eighteen, just out of school, free from affeuiions, unconscious of that passionless multitude around ber ; and the very first time she smote that old wreck one reoo((nised that it bad met his destiny. Her stripling brought an armful of afced sheet mnsic from their room-^forthis bride went ' heeled,' as you might say— and bent himself lovingly over and got ready to turn the pages. The bride fetched a swoop with her fingers from one end of the keyboard to the other, just to get her bearings, aa it were, and you could see the congregation set their teetn with the agony of it. Tiien, witboot any more preliminaries, she turned on all the borrora of the ' fiaUle of Prague.' that venerable shivaree, and waded chin deep in the blood of the slain. She made a fair and honourable averaKe of two fAlse notea in every five, but her soul was in arms and ahe rever stopped to correct. The audience atood it with pretty fair grit for a while, but when the canuo'iade w«xed hotter and hotter and fiercer, and the discord average rose to four in five, the prooetsion begAn to move. A lew stragglets held their ground ten minutes longer, bat when the girl began to wring ttie true inwardness out oi rae * cries of the wounded,' they struck their odbars and re- tired in a kind of naaift ^ > : There never waa^ n oompleter victory ; I waa the only non»combatant left rn the field. I would Oct have deserted my oonntrj^* woman anyhow, but indeed I had no desire in that diraotkm. None of as like medio- oritv, bat wen!l revereooe perfieotion. Th^s girl's musio was perfection in ita way ; it waa the wont musio that had iiver beeh achieved oa oar planal by a mere human being; I moved ap olose, and never lost a strain. When she got throufth, I asked her to play it again. She did it with a pleased alaority and a heightened enthusi- asm. She made it all discord^ this timk £Uie got an amount of anguish into the orieti of the wounded that ahed a light on haman suffering. I^e was on the war path all the evening. All the time^ crowda of people gathered on the porehes and preseed their noses againat the window to look and mar- vel, bnt the braveat never returned in. The bride went e£F satisfied and happy with her young fellow, when her appetite was finally gorged, and the tonriata swarmed in again. What a change has^lloome over Switzer- land, and in f^ct all Europe, durins this century. Seventy or eighty years ago Napo- leon waa the only man in Europe who could really be called a trave ler | he waa tl e only man who had devoted hia attention to it and taken a powerful interest in it ; he was the only man who had travelled extensively; but now everybody goes everywhere ; and Switzerland, Kiid many other regions which were unvistted and unknown remoteneaaes a hundred yeara ago, are in our days a buzzing hive of reatkss atrangsrs, every summer. But I digress. In the mornings when we looked out of oar windows, we saw a wonderfal sight. Acrosa the valley, and apparently quite neighbourly and dose at hand, the giant form of the Jungfraa rose cold and white into tha clear afcy, beyond a eateway in the nearer highlands. It raminJed me, some- how, of one of those colossal billows which swells suddenly up besitie one's ship, at aca, sometimes, with its crest and shoulders snowy white, and the rest uf its noble pro- portions streaked downward with creamy foam. I took oat my sketch book and made a little picture of the Jungfrau, merely to get thn shape : I do not regard this as onefof my finished works, in fact I do not rank it among, my .-- , il 1 *l ■~i>- 92 fT'.rA TBAMP ABROAD. II t Woiki, at allt it ia only tk itady; it is hardly bom thea whaM one ini^* wU a •ktton. Other wUvti have doM m* th« ^iraoe to admir* it, btti I m& Mvare in my jadgmenta of n»y own pbtarai^ and thia one doc« not move me. Itwai hard to believa that that lofty wooded rampart on tha left which aoovar* topstha Jnngfran waa not aotnally the higher of the twO| but it waa not, el ooana. It la only 2.000 or 8,000 feet high, and of oonna has no snow upon it in summer, M'hereas the Jnaofran is not maoh short of 14,000 feet high and therefoia that kiwaat verge of soow-^oa her sids^ trhioh seems neerly down to the valley lersl, is really about seven thousand feet higher up in the air than the summit of that wooded rampart It is the distance that m< '"« the deoeption. The wooded height ia abvt.» four or five milea removed from us, bat tha Jungfiaa is four or live times thnt distaaoa away. Walking dowa iha street of ibops, in the foienoon, I wss attraoted by a larse picture, carvea ao far aa to precede me to the door andhola it open fur me and bow ma out aa it I had b<«en a distinguished per. sonage. It was a new expeiieuoe. Ex- change had been in my favour ever since I had been in Europe, but just that one time. 1 got simply the face of my dralt, sad no extra frauos, whereas I hp.d pxi.ieutcd to get quite a number of them. This was tha ttr«,l A TRAMP ABtlOAD. 93 tldtte Ums. a y<» 1 have bdesMMi « which poio«a« i layiag.' unyMH') ier koow guttle umund hi* r« to pay. ' Yoacoiua He tronld in. More te to the rt omtom aid be in* 1 frMue of trier oonld d hie farm* I to under* fcveto pay my hotel I bad him lind* loaie* ined, now, tekeatiie tranelating ■d tat in the I w«8 fluiih* le money to exoeetliugly eotde me to ne and bow {uished per- itinoe. _ Ex* ever ainoe £ let one tiuie. r»it, and no eoted to get waa the tirti Mme I bad erer oted the oonrier at a bank. I had tnapeoted •omethiuf; then, an<1 aa long aa he remained with me alterward I manased bank mattera Yy my- elf. Btill, if I felt that I oonld afford the tax, I woidd never |travel without a oonrier, for a good oonrier ia a oonveni- cnoe wheae^valne o nnoti be {eatimated in dollan and oenta. Without him, travel ia a bitter haraument, a purgatory of little ex* aaperating annoyance, a oeaaeleaa and i|itl- eaa puniahment, — I mean to an ioaaoible man who haa no buaineae capacity and ia oonfnaed by detaila. Without a courier, travel haan't a ray of Sleaanre in it, anywhere ; bnt with him it I a oontinnoua and unrniHed delight. He ia alwaya at hand; never haa to be aeot for ; if your bell ia not anawered promptly, — and it a^om ia, — von have only to open the door and apeak, the courier will hear, and he will have the older attended to or raiae an in- anrreetion. You tell him what day von will ■tart, and whither yon are going,— leave all the Mat to him. Yon need not inquire about traina, or f area, or oar ohangea, or hotela, or anything elae. At the proper time he will put in a cab or an omnibna, and drive you to the train or the boat ; he haa packed yonr lugciReand tranaferred it, he haa paid all the biua. Other people have preceded yon half an hour to anramble for impoaaible plaoea and loae their tempera, bnt yon can take your time, the courier haa aeeured eeMa for yon, and you can oc* enpy the: your leisure. At th« tion, the crowd maah one another w i>u1p in the effort to get the weigher'^ attention to their trn'nka ; they diapute hotly with theae tyranta, who are eooi end indifferent ; they cet their baggage billet* at laat, and then have another aqueeceand another rage oter the diaheart* euing bnaineaa of trying to get them reoordted and paid for, ana atill another 6ver the equally di-heartening bnaineaa of trying to get near enough to the ticket o£9oe to buy a ticket } and now with their tempera gone to the doge, they mnat ataud penned up and packed together, laden with wrapa and aatohda and ahawl atrapa, with the weanr wife and babiee, in the waiting room, till the doora are thi^wn open— and then all handa make a grand final roah to the train, find it fnll, and bave to atand on the plat- form and fret until aome more can are put ont They are in a condition to kill tome* body by thia time. Meantime yon have been aitting in your oar, amoking, and obaerving all thia mitery^ in the extremeat comfort. On the journey the guard ■• polite and watohfnl,— won't allow anybody to get into your compartment, — telle them you arejnat retovering from the nmall pox and do not like to be diatnrbed. Fur the oonrier haa made everything right with the guard. At way atationa'the courier com«>a to your compartment to aee if yon want a glaaa of water or a newapaper; or anything; at eating attftiona he iehda lanoheon ont to you, while the other people aoramble and worry in the dining'TOoma. If anything breaka, about the oar you aiefn, and a atetion maater pro* potea to pack yon and your agent intoa com* partment with atrangera, the courier reveala to him ooDfldentially that you are a Freueh duke born deaf ana dnmb, and the official comea and makee affable aigna that he h«e or* dered a ohoiOe oar to be added to the train for you. At ouatom houaee the multitude file tedioualy through, hot and irriteted, and look on while thcf olBoera burrow into the tmnka and make a meaa of everything! but you hand yotir keya to the courier and ait atilL J^erhapa y6n arrive at your deatiaatbn in a rmnatorm itt ten at night — you generalbf do. The multitude apend half an hone verif f} ing their bagaige and setting it trauafenred to theomnibuacB} but the courier puta you into a vehicle without a moment'a loaa of time, and when yon reach your hotel yon find your rooma have b^en aeeured two or three daya in advance, everything ie iready, you can go at once to bed. Some of thoae other people will have to drift around to two or three hotela, in the rain, before they find acoommodationa. I have not act down, half ct the virtnea that are veated in a good courier, but I titink I have act down a auffioieuoy of them toabow that an irritable man who can afford one and doea not employ him, ie not a wiae eonnomiat. My courier waa the worat one in Europe* yet he Waa a eood deal better than none at aU. It could not pay him to beabettev one than he w^a, because I could not afford to buy thinita through him. He waa a good enough courier for the email amount he got out of hia aervioe. Yes, to travel with a courier ia bliaa, to travel without one ia tha reverae. I have had dealinga with aome very bad conriera ; but I hftve alao bad dealinga with Otto who might fairly be called perfection. He waa a young Polander, named Joae^ N. Yerey. He apoke eight laognagea, and seemed to be equally at home in all of them; he waa ihrewd, prompt, poeted, and punctual ; he waa fertile in resouroea, and aingnlarly gifted in the matter of overcoming dimonltiea; he not only knew how to do CTcrything in his line^ but he knew the beat ( \- ^1 A TRAMP ABROAD. I - w»yi and the qaickest ; h« WM handy with ehil deraUnding of what the apdl ia whioh people fiud in the Alpa, and ia ao other modataias,— that strange, dee*s namelen iufltienoe, which, once felt, oannot be for* gotten, — once felt, leaves aliraya behind it a reatltiss longing to feel it again, — a long- ing which ia like iiomeSiokness ; a grieving, haunting yearning, whioh will plead, imb plore, and persecute till ik haa ita will. I mek doaena of people, imaginative and nnirn* aginative, cultivated and unoultivated, who faiSid come from far oonntries and roamed through the Swiaa Alpa year after year,— they could not explain why. Thay had come firatk they aaid. out of idle cnrioaikyj beeauae everybody talked abont it ; they haa come ainee oaoanae they conld not help it, and khey ahonld keep on comiog, while kheylivM, for- the aame reason; khey had tried to break their chaina and atayaw«y, but ik waa futile } now, they had no dadf e to break them. Othera came nearer formul- ating what khey felt : they aaid khey eould find perfeok reat and peaoe nowhere dae when khey were kronbled : all freka and worriaa and ohafings aank ko aleep in the preaenoe of khe beignank aerenity ef the Alpa ; the Great Spirit of the Mountaia breathed hia oira peace upoa«their hurt miuda and aore hearts, and healed them i they could not ikhiok baae thonghta or do mean and awdidl thinga hare before the visible throne of God. Down the road a piece was a Karsaal,-^ whatever that may be,'-and we ioinad the human tide to aee what aort of enjoyment it might afford. It waa the asnal open-air coa> cert^ in an ornamental garden, with winei^ beer, milk, whey, grapea, eta , — ^the whey and the grapea being neceasariea of life to oertaic' invalida whom phyaieiana cannot repair, and who only continue to exiat by the grace oi whey or grapea. One of theae deputed apirita told me» in a aad and lifeleaa way, that thwre waa no way for him to live but by whey; aever drank aaythinft sow, but whey, and dearly, oearly loved whey, he didn't know whey he did, but he did. After making thia pun he died —that ia the whey it aemid him. Some other remaina, pveaerved from de* oompeaitioa by the grape ayatem, told me that khe grapea were of a peculiar breed, highly medioated in their nature, and khat kh«y were coanked ouk and adminiatered by thegraMi^ookora aa methodically aa if khey were puis. Tbe new pakientt if very feeble^ began with one grape Wore breakfaat, took three duriag breakfast, a ooupla betweea mealri^ fireat luncheon, three in theafker< aeon, aevaiiat dinner, four for aupper^ and part d a grape joat before going to bed, by way of a geperal regulator. The quantity waa gradually and regularly inoreaaed, ac« cording to the needa and capaoitiea of the Satien^ natil by and by you would find him ispoaing of hia one grape per second all the day long, and hia regular barrel per day. f ■''-'«fi>:»^-.'m!^!imod enouKb, but it seemed rather tame after she cyclone qf that Arkansaw ex* pert. Barides, my adventurous spirit bad ooneeived a. formidable enterprtM— nothing leas than a trip from InterUken, by the Oemmi and V)Sp, clear to Zermatt, on foot ! 86 it was oeeesssry to plan the details, and get ready for an early start. This oonrier (this was not the One I have just been epenk- ng^^of), thoattht that the portier of the hotel would be able to tell ui how to find our way. And so it turned out. He showed ns the whole thing on a relief map, and we coald see our route, with its elevations and depressions, its villsges and its rivers, as dearly a« if we were sailing over it in a balloon. A relief* map is a great thing. The porti«r also wrote down each da>'a journey and the nightly ho- tel on a pi««e of paper, and made our course ■o plain that we should never be able to get loet without bigh-inrioed outside help. I put the courier in the care of a gentleman who was' going to Lausanne, and then we went to bed, after laying out the walking oostomes and putting them into condition for instant oocupation in the moroing. However, when we came down to breakfast at 8 a. m. , it Ittoked so mnoh lik» rain that I I hired a two.hors* top buggy for the first third of the journey. For two or three hours we jogged along the level road wbioh skirts the beautiful lake of of Tbun, with a dim and dreamlike piature of watery expanses and spectral Alpine forms always before ns, veiled in a melluwing mist. Then a steady dowu'poiir «ot in, and iiid everything but the nearest n) j -cts. We kept the rain out of our fao«B with umbrellas, and away from our bodies with the le>tb«r ayron of the buggy ; hut the driver aat nmsheltered and placidly soaked the weather in and seeme4 to like it. We had the road att to our* selves, and I never had a pleasanter excnr* sion. The weather began te clear while we were driving up a valley called the Kienthal, and presently a vast black clond bank in front of us dissolved away and uncurtained the grand proportions and the soaring loftinesses of the Rlumis Alp. It was a son of breath, taking surprise ; for we had not supposed there waa anything behind that low>hncg blanket of sable doud but level valley. What we had been mistaking for fleeting glimpses of sky away aloft there, were really patches of the B*.umis's snowy crest csught through shredded rents in the drifting pall of vapour. We dined in the inn at Fmtigen, and our driver ought to hava dined there, too, but he would not have had time to dine and gnc drunk both, so he gave his mind to making a master-piece or toe latter, and tuooeeded. A German gentleman and his two yonng lady daoghters had been taking their noon- ing at the inn, and when they left, inat ahead of us, it was plain that thdr driver was as drunk aa ours, and as happy and good-natured, too, wbioh was saying a good deal. These rascals overflowed with at* tentions and information for thmr guests, and with brotherly love for eaoh ether. They tied their reins, and took off their ooats and hats, so that they might be able togive unencumbered attention to, oonver- sation and to the gestures necessary for its illustratiou* The road was smooth ; it led up and over and down a continual snoeession of bills ; but it wss narrrtw, the horses were nsed to it, end could not get out of it anyhow ; so why Wouldn't the drivers entertain them- selves and us T The noses of our horses pro- jected sociably into the rear of the forward carriage, and as we toiled up the hill, our driver stootl up and talked to his friend, and his friend stood np and talked back to him, with his rear to the scenery. When the top was reached and we went flying down the other side, there was no ohange in the programme. 1 carry it in my memory yet, the picture of th«t forward driver^ on hie knees on his high seat, resting his elbows on its t>ack, and braming down on his pas- sengers, with happy eye, and flying hair, and jully red faoe, and offering his card to the old 0«rman gentleman while he praiped bis hauk and huraes and both teams were whiscing down a long hill with nobody in a position to tell whether we were bound to destruction or an undeserved safety. •<. ih .,(*iW»(««i*'«' » ..ik's^'.ca.u.-., -J. ^>— iB^^^i^jii: ii j iJdi- A inAMl* ABROAD. Toward saoieft w« •nUrad • twantifal {!r«9a valley dotted with ohaloti, ftOMjr UtIedomMD hidden away from tho biuy woald iu » oloiatered nook among |(iut pi»> oipioflt toped with inowy peaki that Momed to doat like island* above the onrling rarf of the tea uf vaponr that Mvered Ikem ftom the lower world. Down from vagne and vaporone heighta, little ra£Bed aigaaa milkv oarrenta eame orawlinf^ and found their way to the verge of one of the tremendone overhangiog walle» whence they plunsed, aehaftof tUvn, ahivered to atom* in mia-deecent and tamed to an airy .puff of laminona duet Here and there, in grooved d«preMieoa among the inowy deaolationa of the upper altitudes, one glimpaed the extremity of a glacier, with ita-sea green and honey>oombed oattlementa of ioe. Up the valley, nnder a dixsy preoipioe, neatied the village of Kanderatef^ onr halt* ing place for the night. We were aoon there, and hooaed in the hoteL Bat the waniug day had aaoh an inviting inflaenoe that we did not remain honaed many uiomenta, bat atrock out and followed a roMring torrent of ioe water np to its far eource in a aort of little graas-oarpeted par- lour, walled in all around by vast preoiptoea, Aiid overlooked by oluatering anmmiteof ioe. I'hia was the snuggest little croquet groand imaginable ; it was perf«otIy level, and not more than a mile long by half a mile wide. The walla around it were so gigantic, and everything abtut it was on so mighty a aoale that it was belittled, by oontraat, to what I have likenesy apd carpeted par- lour. It waa ao high 'above the Kanderateg valley that there waa nothing betwrean it and the anow peaks. I had never been in each intimate relations with the high altitudes before ; the snow peaks had always been remote and unapproachable grandears, hitherto, but now we were hob-a.nob~-if one way use such a seemingly irreverent ezpres- sion about oieations so angoat as these. We ooulJ see the atreama which fed the torrent we had followed iaauing from under thegreenibh ramparts of slnoiers; but two or three of three, inatead of flowing over the precipices, sank ddwu into the rook and sprang in bit{ jtits out of holes in the mid* face of the wahd. The green nook which I havo been deaofibiug is called the Oastemtbal. The glacier atreama gather and flow through It in a broahiug and thrasUiog its way over and amoog monster bowlders, and hurling chance roots and logs about like straws. There mm ao laok of ouoadee along this route. Th« puth by the side of the torrent was so narrow thai ogM bad to look sharps when he heard a cow bell, and hont for a plaoe that waa wide enough to accommodrta a oow and a Ohristiaa side by side, and such plases WON not always to be had at an in- stant's aoftioa. Tha cows wsar ehnroh beUr, and that is a good idea in the eows, for where that torrent is, yon eonldn't hear an ordinary oow«heU any further than yon oould hear the ticking of a watoh. %l needed exeroisa, so I employed my agent in setting sirandsd logs and dead treee adrift, and I sat oo a bowlder and watched them go whirling and leaping head over heel* down the boiling torrent. It was a wonderfully exhilarating speetaole. When I had had ezMoise eBOuga, I mads the agent take some, by running a race with one of thoee logs^ I mada a trifle by betting oo thelof. After dinner wo had a walk up and down the quiet Kanderateg valley, in tha soft {(loaming, with the speetaele of the dying ights of day playing about ttie crests and Jrannades of the still sad solemn npper realm or oontraal, and text for talk. There ware nor sounds but the dulled complaining of the torrent and the eeoasional tinkling ol a din* tantbell. The spirit of tlwpUee waa a sense of deep^ pervadingpesee ; one might dream his life tranquilly away there, and not miss it or mind it when it was gone. The summer departed with the sun, and winter name with the stars. It grew to bo a bitter night in that littl« hotel, backed up against a prsdpioe that had no visible top to it, but we kept warm, and woke in time in the morning to find that everybody else had left for the Gemmi three hours befonH^so our little {dsn of helping that Qennan. family (principally the dd maa), over the'Pass, was a blooked generosity. CHAPTER XXXIY. We hired tha oaly guide left, to lesdwa on our way. Ha was ever seventy, bnt ho (Muld have given me nine-tenths of his strength and still had all his age entitled htm to. Be ehoaldered our satchels, over* coats, and alpeoHitoeks, and we set out up the steep paw. It was hot work. The old man soon hegged us to hand over oar coats and waistooata to him to carry, too, and we did it : one oould not refuse so little a thing to a poor old man like that ; he should have hid them if he had been a hundred fifty. we raili face dK]L way viei whe we; gent % irliog raws. Bthia >rreDk ibtrp, (for» kodrt* iminh •aiQ* beUf. in, for iMMran A yoa td my dftrata •tobtd d OTer WM • When I \ ARtBt i one of id down thatofk • dyiaff Mto «Bd ernMlm ^ •rewtre aoltke »dk- IftMOMI fMmllia liw it er BUVt and twto 1(6 okad up letopto time in elielMd ifon»— ■« A family ^aM« ifM -■.■■'■.• olaadva y bntha of hia antitlad ela, over* oat np The old oar ooata 9, and we le a thing luld have Idred # 'it a* A TBAMP ABROAD. ** ; When we benn that aaoent, w^ eonld aee • niioroioopio oAalet peMbedawayap Mdhiat h^Ten o:b what ■aeaed to be Ihe mgMtt monntain near ns. tl waa pa ovr nAi, aoroaa the narrow he«d of the yall«j. Vat whan we got np abreaat it on ita own leyel, moiuitdns were towering higb aboye en every bvid, and we aaw that tta alMtade waa jnat »bo«t that of the little Gaatemthal wiiioh we had yirited the eveniiig before^ SliU it ieeitf ed a long way np in the air, in that waate and lonely Wikiemew of rooka. It had an nnfenoed ghMM*^ot in front of it which leemed nbont aa big aa a billiard table, and thia graaa plot dented lo aharply downWardi|» a|id waa ao brief, and ended ao exceedingly aeon at the verge of th* abednte preeipice, that it waa a ahnddery tting to wink of a peraon'a ventoring to tmet hii fbot On an inoline ao dtnated at alL Snp« poae a man atepped onan orange peel in that yard, there wonld be ' nothing tor him to aeiae } nothing oonld keep him from roUing ; flye revolntioni would bring him to the edm, and over he would go. What afHghixul Stance he wonld fall I—for there are very few birda that fly aa hi^ aa hia atartiog poinl He wonld atrike and bounce, two or Ibree timea, on hia way down, but thia would be no advantage to him. I would aa aoon take aa mring on thealant of a rainbow aa in anoh a front yard, I would rather, in fact, for the diatanoe down would be about the aame, and it ia pleaianter to elide than to bounoe. I oould not aee how the pftaaanta got up to that chalet— we region aemned too ateep for anything bat a balloon. Aa we atrolled on dimbing up higher and higher, we were continnallybnngiDg neigh. boutiDspeaka intoviewand lofty rarooiineacea whioh had bemi hidden behind lower peaka before ; ao by and by, while atandiog before a group of theae giants, we looked around for the chalet again i there it wa^ away down b«k>w na, apparently on an inooo- I apicttoaa ridge in the valley I It waa aa far . below u^* now, as it had been above ui when ■ we wen beginning the aaoent. After a while the path led aa along a railed precipice, ana we looked over ^ar beneath na waa tiie anng parlour again, the little Gaatemthal, with ita water jete apouting from the face of ita rook walla. We could have dropped a atone into ik We had been find* iqg,the top of the world all along «nd al« way a finding a atill higher top Ktealiog jipta view in a disappointtng wav jnat a^ad : when we looked down into thia Oatternthal we felt pretty anro that we bad reached the genuine top at last, but it waa not so | thero wero much higher altitudes to be acaled yet We wero atUl in the pleasant shailw of forest tree^ we wero atiU m a re«iou which waa cnahioned with beautiful moaeee and aglow with the many«tinted kistre d innumerf Me wildflowenL We found, indeetL mere intereet in the wild flower* than in anything else. We gathered • apeoimen or two o( every kind whioh wo were onaoqnainted with) ao we had Kumptaooa bouqueta. But one of the chief intereata Iny in ohaaing the seaaona of the year up the mountain, and deteroiiuiug them by the p r saence of flowera and btirriea whioh we were acquainted with. For in* stance, it waa the end taila, bnt the eonatraction of the floinl oelendar was yety ontertainiag whiM ^t laated. „ In the high ngkma we found rich tkatffjA the aplendid red flower oallad theAlj^gM roee^ but we did not find any ezamp^jof the ugly Swiaa favourite called Ede^ipeisa. Ita name aeema to indicate that it ia r ~^*' flower and that it ia whitcb It mw I enough, but it ia not attractive, anc^j white. Thefuny Uoaaomiathe ^ bad cigar aahoa, and appearatobcj a cheaf quality of grfy plush. .^* noble and diatant way of confini' the high altitudea, but that ia , j account of ita looka^ ^^ *PJB — monopoly of those uppw i ' for they are sometiinee va% , eome of the loveliest of the vf wild flowersb Eterybody ij a sprig of Edelweiu in ' native^ pet, and also the i All the morning, aa wi^} _ ing a good time^ othe^,| etaving by ua with ' with the intent and i who wero walking f or^ lodae knee-lnreeoheB, I hothuaile^ high-lao wero gentlemen wl land or Oermany < they had beaten] Bnt I doubted it fun, outaideof .1 ation of the ( and the broi moat alwaya^'] acenery loae)^ cession .1 .,?; It 1 TM^^Lm pro* paa» A TRAMP ABROAD. vm aloBS the Mrrow path,— th« onaproo w (dioB going, the other ooming. W« h4d tdioB » good daal of traablo to t«Mh oar* MtTw th« kiodlr G«rnan eoitom of Mlatbg ■11 itraagort wfth doffad hat, aad wo two* lutely olniig to it» that moraing, althoa^ it kopi u baro headod fluwt of' tho tjivi* and was not alwayi rwponded to. Still Wo foQind an interoat in tho tning^ boOaoM w« niaial ona of all, whtsre the. racked end splintered debris waa thiokest, where the an- cient patches of snow lay agaiast the very path, whero winds blew bittereet and the general aspect waa mourofuleet and dreerisot, and furthersst from spy snggesiion of cheer or kcpe, I found a aoUtasy, wee forg«t-iae>|Bot flounshing away, not a diroop aboat it any- where, bnt heldinc its bright blue vtar up with the prettiesik and gallantasA air in the world, the only happy spirit^ the only smiling thing, in all that grisly diioMrt. She seemed to say, ' Cheer np i- as we are bersb let nis make the best of it.^ I ludflod she had earOed a right to a mora hoe- pitwle place ; so I plnoked her np and sent ner to America to a friend who would re- spect her for th* flgfrt she had made, all by her small self, to miske a whole vMt despond- ent Alpine desolation stop breaking its neart over the unalterable, and hold np its head and look at the bright side of things for once. Wa stopped for a nooning at a strongly baill little umoaUisd the Sohwarenbaon. It sHs in a lonely spot amoag the peaks, where it is swept by the traiBng fringes of the doud-roek, and is rained on, snoirad on, and pelted and persecuted by the storms, nearly ever]f day of its life. It was the only habita- tioa in the whole Oemmi Pass. Olose at band, now, was a ohanoefor a blood-curdling Alpine adventure. Close at hand was the snowy moss of the Oreal Altels oeoling its top-knot in the sky and daring iS to an ascent I was fired with tne idea, and immediately made np my mind to procure tiie necessary gnides, ropes, eta^ and dnder- take-it. I instraeted Harris to go to the landlord; of thelnp, and set him about our prepsiations. Meantime I went diligently to WOK to read np and find out what this muck*talked>of mountain-climbing waa like^ and how one dhonld go about it— for in these matters I was ignorant. I opened Mr. Hincbliff's * Summer Months among the Alps,' (published 1857,) and selected iSs ac- count of his ascent of Monte Rosa. It began — ' It is very difficult to free tho^ mird from A TRAMP ABROAD. tv.i. I atw« iiiai«"tio Miadii ratkm to lUo, tnA lintwMt Im fprget Id. Idag Vot upUoas, •ad »rid ickadMid MthtMi- i and the ,dr«MriMfc, n of dheer m« HMqr- blM «ter ktMl air in rl, tbe dMttt. ■•s long M of iV I ft mora Iim- ,p and Mot iO would ze- lado, all by wt dMpoDd- ing ito Mart in ita haad i ihinsafor feaatnmgly enbaoQ. It «diB, where ingoa of the iii^0B,and ,nna, nearly only habita- ohanoefor a B. Cloae at Oreal Altela od daring ia tVo idea, and to proeare ^ and nnder- to go to the n about onr diligently to »at what this Abing waa Uit it— for in I opened Mr. ] among the [«eted hia ao- ^te Boaa. It mipd from ezoitement on the e?ening before *araa4 ox* peditioB-.' I aaw that I waa too Oalmi ao I walked the room a while and Worked ajaelf into a hiiih exoitem«Bt ; but (he book'a next remark-i- Ihat the adventurer mnit get up at two in «li* momlng— oame aa near •■ aay^hiag to ilattinitlt ail out again. However, I rein> foreed, and read on. about how Mr. Hiooh- lUr dreaaed by oandle*ltght and waa* soon down among the goidea, who were buatling about in \ho puaaage, paoking prorUiooa, and making erery preparation (or the start }' and how he glanoed out into tiie oold, elear night and saw that— ^be whole aky waa blaaing with atara. larger and brighter than they appear through the dense atmoaphere breathed byinhabi. tanta of the lower parte of the earth. Thev aeemed actually su«tiended from the dark vault of heaTon, and their gentle light ahed a teiry-like gleam ortt the snow-ftelda around tiiefootof theMatterhomwhwh raiaedita atupendOUB pinnaole on high, penetrating to the heart of the OrMat Bear, and crowning itself with a diadem Of his magniftoent atara. NotaaoUnd disturbed the deep tranquility of the nighl^ except the distant roar uf streams which rush from the hiKh plateau of thj St. Theodole Rlaoier, and I'all hesil- loDg over preoipitoua rooka till they lose ^emselvea in the maaes of the Oorner glacier.' Ee took 'hia hot toaat and oo£Fee, and then about half-past three biaoaravfto of ten men < tiled away from the Riffel Hotel, and begnn the steep climb. Athalf-paat five he, hap* pened to turn around, and ' beheld the glo- rioua apectaole Of the Matterhorn, just tonchea by the rosy- fingered morDing, and looking like a huge pyramid of fire riaiog oat of the^barren ocean of ice and rook and around it.' Then the Bre)thomand the DentBianohe uausht the radiant glow ; but ' tbe iut«r- venug masa of Monte Rosa made it necessary ta/t Uf to climb many hours before we could hope to see the sun himself, yet the whole air aoon grew warmer after the splendid birth of day.' He gazed at the lofty crown of Monte Rota and the wastes of snow that gaarded its steep appiroachea, and the chief guide delivered the opinion that no man oould conquer their awful heights and put his foot UDoh that summit. But the adventurera mnTed ateadily on, hethertheleat. They toiled up, and op, and atill up; they passed the Grand Plateau ; then toiled up a eteep shoulder of the mountains, ding- )'ig like flies to ita rugged face ; and now I hey were confronted 1^ a tremendous wall from which great blocks of ice and snow woroovldaaitly in tha habit of falling. Tliey tnrnad aaido to akirt tUa waD, and gradnallir i Moendad imtll their way waa barred by a * maio, of gigan. tie aaosr ONvioeik' '-^ ao thay turned aaida again, •ad 'began a long climb of anfRekntatoopMsa to aakeaaigsag oeufao Fatigue 'OOBfellod tham'to halt freqitent* ly, Cor a moaseol or twoi. At otto ot th#ao halt* aomebody eallad out, « Look at M<»nt Blano i' and * wo wero At onoe m%de awaro of tb« vary gioat heifcht wo had att^ad by aotnally aeetng the monandi of the Alpa and his attendant BateUit«i right ov*r tho ton of the Bieithon, itaalf ftt IsMt KOOOlNt hishl' Thaaa poopio mtfvod in ainglo flle^Mid were all «ed to a atrong rope, at regUar diatmieea apart^ ao fkn if one of them alipoad, on thoao giddy heighta, tike othtra eoufdbraoe theoMelvM on their alpenstq^ka and aavo him from darting into the vaUfy* thooaanda of feet below. By and by Ihoy oaoae to an ioe-oouted ridgo which waa tOt* ed up at a ahairp angle, and had a preclpieo * on one side of it. Thtj had to olimbing would aoon be upon mo. I aaid ho oonld make op hia bind to it tiiat we would do a deed before we were a week older which would make the hair of the timid onrl with friffhi Thia made Harria happy, and filled him with ambitioua antioipationa. He wmit at once to tell the gnidea to follow ua to Zormatt and bring all their paraphernalia with them. OHAPTEB XXXV. A great and priooleaa thing ia a now in> tereat I How it takea poaaeaaion of a man t bow it olinga to him, how it ridea him 1 I atrode onward from tbe Sohwarenbaoh boa- telry a changed man, a reorganised peraonal- ity. I walked in a new world, I aaw with new eyea. I had boon looking aloft at the giant enow peaka only aa thinga to bo wor- ahipped for their grandanr and magnitude, and their nnapeakablo grace of foim ; I look- ed up at thom now, aa alao thinga to be con- quered and climbed. My aenae of their {[randeur and their noide beauty waa neitiier oet nor impaired ; I had gained a new in- tereat in the monntaina without loaing the old onea. I followed the atoep linea up, inch b^ inch, with my o^o, and noted tho poaai> bility or impoaaibility of following them with my foot. When I aaw a ahining haimet of ice projeotmg above the clonda, 1 tried to imagine I saw fllea of blaok apecka toiling up it roped together with a goaaamer thread. We akirted the lonely little kko oaUed the Daubenaee, and preaently paaaed dose by a glacier on the right — a thing like a great river frosen aolid in ita flow and ^MipiaJ A TRAMP ABROAD. m Matty OM Thar* h* [ thAIOIM. iW hAWM 4mpoBtti« TMkgtaMk of [•rriilmnt dI uid Mid toortd^ Mud UU«T«d I m*. 1 Mid I from what LJadgodwo itomorobe- Bat I told iar thfiB to IMnttOOM th« spirit of !•, Md WM Jp^iiBbing id h« could would do ft >ld«r which d curl with i filled him He went ftt itoZermfttt iwiththaoi. a iMwin* of ft men I ee himl I •nbftch hoe- ad pereooftl* ~ Mwwitb ftlof t ftt the to be wor* mftgnitade, m ; I look- 9 to be con- of their wftB neither ft new in* losing the DM up, inch th«poin> »wing them ning helmet , r tried to toiling np thread. Iftke celled wued close hing like a flow ftod broken eqaere off like e wall ftt its month. I had never been ao neer a glacier before. Here we came upon » new board ahanty, and found lome men engaged in bnildiog e stone hooM { so the Schwerenbaoh was soon to have ft rivftl. We bonght ft bottle oi so of beer here } ftt ftny rate they cilled it beer, but I knew by the price thftt it wu diasolved Jewellerv, and I pereeiyed by the taste that iissolTed jewellery is not good stuff to drink. We were sttrroanded by a hideons desola* tion. We stepped forward to a sort of jumping- off place, and were confronted by ft stftrtling oontrast : we seemed to look down into fftirylftttd. Two or three thouMud fMt below us WM ft bright igmm lerel, with e pretty town in lis miost, and a silvery strMm winding among the meadows ; the charming spot wm walled in on all sides by gigantic preeipioM clothed with nines ; and oTcr the pines, out of the softened distances, roM the snowy domee end peaks of the Monte Rom region. How exquisitely green sQd iMftncifnl that little vslley down there was I The distsnoe wm not grMt enough to obliterate details, it only made them little, and mellow, and dainty, like IftnduapM and towns seen through the wrong end of a spy- glass. Bight under ns a Bftrrow ledge rose up out A the valley, with a green, sUting, bench-sheped top, and ground aboat upon this green-baisa bench were a lot of black and white sheep which looked merely like over>aiifld worms. The bench seemed lifted well up into onr neighbourhood, bat that was a deception,— it wm a long way down toil We began our descent, now, by the moat remarkable road I hftve ever seen. It woond in corkscrew ourvM down the face of the ooloMal precipice, — a narrow way, with alwftya the aolid rock wall at one elbow, and perpendicular nothingneae at the other. We met en everlMting proceaaion of guidea, porters, mules, litters, end tourists climbing up this steep and muddy path, and there WM no room to spare when you had to pass a tolerable fat mule. I always took the in- side, when I hMrd or mw the mule coming, and flattened myself ftsainst the wall. I preferred the inside, of connw, but I should have had to take it anyhow, becauM the mule prefera the outside. A mule's prefer* enoe,— on a precipice — is a thing to be re- spected. Well, his choice is always the outside, flis life is mostly devoted to carrying bulky pannien and pMkagM which rest against his oody,— therefore be is habit- uated to taking the outride edge of mountain paths, to kMp his bundles from robbing against rooks or banks on ,the other. When Er bui^QMS he ab* bit, Md kMpa one Wftya dftagling ovsf the lower world whue that he goM into the , surdlv cliBgs to hui old leg of his pMsesMT ftlwftya the gre^t deepe ^Tthe lower i pasacngere heart id, in tSe highlands, so t6 spMk. More than biuse I saw a mule's hind foot cave over the ^ter edge and send earth and rubbish bto tha MttomleM abvM i and I notioed that upon thcM occasioBS th« rider, whether mala or female, looked toIa^ abW unuall. There wm one plaM where an IS-ineli brMdth of liflht masonry had been added t6 the verge of the path, and m there wai a very sharp turn, here, a pi^iel of fcnohi'g had been Mt up thera at soma - anoient timCL M a protection. This panel wm old and gray and fMble, and the light masonry had been loosened by repent rains. A yoUB|| American girl came along on a mule, and in making! the turn the mule's hind foot caved all the looM masonrv and one of the fcnon posts over board ; the mule gave ft violent lurch inboftrd to sftve himself, end snocedad in the effort, but that girl turned M white M the snows of Mont Mano for a moment. The path hera wm rimply a groove eat in* to the face of the precipice ; there was d fenr-foot breadth of solid rook unw der the traveller, am a four-foot brecdrh of solid rock just above his head, like the roof of a narrow porch ; h«t could look out from this i;allery and ree a sheer sunimetleas and buttomlees wall of rock before him, acrots a gorge or crack a biaouit'H toH in width, — but he could not aee the bottom of his own precipice unless he lay down and projected his nose over the edgei I did not do thia for I did not wish to soil my clothes. 'Every few hundred yards, at perticnlftrly bad places, one came acrces a panel or so of plank fencing ; but they were always old and weak, and they generally leaned out over the chMm and did not make any rMh promises to hold up {wople who might need anpport. There wm one of these panels which had only its upper board left ^ a pedes* trianiring English youth came tearmg dowa the path, wm seised with an impnlM to look over the precipice, and without an instant'a thonsht he threw his weight upon thatersAj board. It bent outward ft foot I I nevet mftde a gMp before that came so near auffoMth ing me. The English youth's face tamptf showed ft lively surprise, but nothing morai. He went swingmg along valley wards again, M if he did not luow he had just swindled aooroner.by the doBMtkindof ashave. ' I The Alpine litter is sometimes like a cushioned box made fMt between the middles i * ^f•:^tlf''**■ ^ %Nir' wtf lot A TRAMl^ ABROAD. bf two. long polM, and waiMmm it li » ohair with • bftok to' it Mid » jiaypoit for tho feet. Iti|io»rri«dbTr«Ujriiof vvoogportenk The VDotiAii i« eesier thiui that of aay other oon- ▼ejrftnoe. W« met • few men uid a great awny ladieein litem; it leemed to me that most of ^eladiee looked pitle and DMueated; their general eepeot gar* me tho idea that they were patiebUy radnrlng a horrible uxtWdiing. Ai a hife, th«y looked at their laps, and left th« soenwy to take oare of itMlf. ^ Bat the moet firishtened oroatare I law Iras a Isd hrane that overtook ui. Poor fe)> low, he had b««n bom aad reared in the E3ay levels of the Kanderateg valley and i never leen anything like this hideoos plaoe before. Every few atepa he would atop abort, alaoQe wildly ont from the dizzy height, and then apread hia rednoatrila wide and {MUkt as violently as it he had been ronc^og A race ; and all the while he onaked from head to heel, as with a palsy. He waa § handaome fellow, and he made a fine atata- esquepiotoreoftarror, bntit waa pitiful to seehimauffersa Tbia dreadful path haa had ita tragedy. Baadeker, with hia ooatomary over*teraenesa bepnaand enda the tale thna : ,j '^The descent on horseback should be '^•voided. In 1861 a Comtesse d' Herlineourk fdl from her saddle over the precipice and waa killed on the apot'i We looked over tbe precipice there, and ■aw the monnmont. which commemorates the •vent. It atanda in the bottom of the gorge, in a place which haa been hollowed out of the reck to protect it from the torrent and the atorma. Our old guide never spoke but when spoken to, and then limited himself to a syllable or two ; but when we asked him •bout this tragedy be'showed a strong interest in the matter. He said the Countess was very pretlgr, and very young— iuurdly out of her girlhood, in fact. She was newly married, and wtA on her bridal tear.\ The young husband waa riding a little in advance ; one guide waa leading the husband'a horse, another waa leading tilia brida'a. The c!d man con> jinued, — 1; * The guide that waa leading the husband's horse happaned to glance back, and there was that poor young thingsitting up staring out ov«r uie preci|Hoe ; and her face began to bend downwun a Uttle, and she put up her two handa alowly and met it,->bo, — aod pat them flat agaiaat her eyer,— so,-~and tilten aha aunk oat of., the aaddle, with a •harp ahriek, aad one caught oplytbo flash •f a dress, and it waa all over.' r Then after a pause,— * Ah yes, that guide saw these tbiagi^— yes, lie raw them all Ha saw them all, jvst as I have told yoo.' After auotkar pause,— * Ah yes, he saw tham all My God, that waa ma. I was that guide I' Thia had bfan the one event of the qld man'a life ; so one may be sure he had for* Ktten no detail connected with it We tened to all he had to say about what waa done and what happened and what waa said after the aorrowfui oocurrenoe, and a painful stwv it was. When wa had wound down toward the valley until ^t were about on the last apiral of the corkscrew, Harris's hat blew ovor the last remaining bit of precipice,— a aD«ll oUfT a hundred or a hundred and fifty feet high,— and sailed down towards r ateep slant composed of rough chips and f ragmenta which the weather hsfd flaked away from the precipices. We went lesinrely down there, expecting to find it without any trouble, but we had made a mjatake^ aa to that We hunted datiim aooopleof hours,— not be« cause the old straw hat waa valuable, but out of ourioaity to find oat how such a thins colnd manage to conceal itself in open ground where there was nothing for it to hide be* hind. When one is reading in bed, and lays his p&ptr>iuiife down, he cannot find it again if i« ia smaller than a aabre ; that bat waa as stubborn as any paper-knife could have been, and we finally had to give it up ; but we found a fragment that had once be- longed to an opera glass, and by digging around and turning over the rooks we gradually collected all the lenses and the cylindera and tiie vaiioua odda and enda that go to make up a complete opera glass. We after warda had the thing reconstructed, and the owner can have hia adventurous long* lost property by submitting proofs and pay* ing coats of rehabilitation. We had hopes of finding the owner there, distributed around amongst the rosks, for it would haye m*de an elegant paragraph } but we were disappointed. StiU, we w ^re far from being disheartened, for there waa a considerable area which we had not thoroughly aearohed ; we were satisfied he was there, aom« where, so we resolved to wait over a day at L«uk and come back and get him. Then we sat down to polish o£f the perspiratiou and arrange about what we would do with him when we got liim. Harris was for con- tributing lum to the British Museum ; bub I was for mailing him to his widow. That ia tha difference between Harris and me : Harris all for display, I am all for the Bimpie S'|h^ even though. I loae money by it. arris argued in favour of his proposition and againat mine, I argued in favour of ■■'^yme*^jia,»mi*M^>tt;4 y God, that b of t)M old he h»d lor* th it We It what WM lat WM eeid ndapainfal toward the e Uit Bpiral ew ovor the e,— » Dd fifty feet rda r iteep id f ngmenta r«y from the down there, trouble, but that. We n,— not be* valuable, but ■uob a thin open gronn b to hide be« led, and lays knot find it re } that hat r>knife ooald » give it up ; had once be- by digging c rooks we itei and the «d ends that a glass. We itrncted, and itnrous long- ofs and pay* ITe had hopes distributed b would haye bat we were ve from being oonsid«rable Illy searched ; , aomewbere, day at Lruk Then we sat }iratiou and do with him irss for con- f uaeum ; hut ridoW. That rris and me : or the pimple oney by it. I proposition in favour of A TBAMP ABROAD. lOIr mine and agdnst hi*. The diaousslon warm* ed into a dispute { the dispute wanned in^ a quarreL I finally said, Tery deadly, — « My mind is made npti He fpM* to fha widow.' Harris answered sharplv, — ' And my mind is made up. He goes to the Museum.' . I said, calmly,- ««^ - ' The Museum may whistle when it gets him.' Harris retorted, — * The widow mi^ save herself the trouble of whistling, for I will see that she nerer gets him.' After some angry bandying of epithets, I ■aid,— * It seems to me that you are taking on a good many airs about these remains. I don't quite see what you've got to say about themr ' I T I've got all to say about them. They'd never have been thought of if I hadn't found their opera glass. The corpse belongs to me, and I'll do as I please with him.' I was leader of the expedition, and all dis- ooveries achieved by it naturally belonged to me. I was entitled to these remains, and oould have enforced my right ; but rather than have bad blood about the matter, I said we would toss up for them. I threw heads and won, but it was a barren victory, for al- though we spent all the next day searching, we never found a bone. I cannot imaeine what oould ever have become of that fellow. The town in the valley is called Leuk or Leukerbad, we pointed our course toward it, down a verdant slope which was adorned with fringed gentians and other flowers, and presently entered the narrow alleys of the outskirts and waded toward the middle of the town through liquid ' fertiliser .' They ouuht to either pave that village or organize a ferry Harris's ^ody was simply a chamois-pas- ture ; his person was populous with the little hungry pests; his akin, when he stripped, was splocuhed like a scarlet fever patient's ; so, when we were about to enter one of the Leukerbad innR, and he noticed its sign, ' Chamois Hotel,' he refused to stop there. He said the chamois was plen- tiful enough, without hunting up hotels wheie they made a specialty of it. I was indifferent, fur the chamois is a oreature that vtill neither bite me nor abide with me : but to calm Harris, we went to the Hotel (iea Alpes. At the table d'hote we had this for an incident. A very grave man — in fact his gravity amooated to solemnity, andaloMWl to austerity — sat opposite us and he was ' tight^' but dohig hii best ta appear sober. He took up a oorked bottle of wine, tilted it over his glass a whds^ then set it out oi ' the way, with a oontented look, and weni on with his dinner. Presently he pat his glass to his month, and of oonrse found it empty. He looksd punded, and glanoed furtively and sns^ donaly out of the oomer of his eye at a benignant and unoonsoious old lady who sol at his right. Shook his head, as mnoh as to say, ' NOf she couldn't have done il' He tilted the oorked bottle over his glass again, meantime searohing round with his watery eye to see if anybody was watohing him. He ate a fetr mouthfuls, raised his gUss to his lips, and of oonrse it was still empty. He bent an injured and aoonsiag side gace upon that unoonsoious old lady, which was a study to see. She wlate away, set his glass directly in front of him, held on to it with his left liand, and proceeded to pour with his right. This time he observed that nothing oame. He turned the bottle dear upside down ; still nothing issued from it; a plaintive look oame into his face, and he said, as if to himself, 'id They've ^ot it aU I' Then he set the bottle down, resignedly, and took the rest of his dinner dry. It was at that table d'hote, too, that I had under inspeotion the largest lady I have ever seen in private life. She was over seven feet high, and magnificiently proportioned. What had first Ciiiled my attention to her, was my erepping on an outlying flange of her foot, and heac^ ing, from up toward the ceiling, a deep ' Pardon, m'sieu, but you encroach i ' That was when we were coming through the hall, and the place was dim, and I oould see her only vaguely. The thing which called my attention to her the second time^ was, that at a table beyoml ours were two very pretty girls, and thin great lady oame in and sat down between ihem and me and blotted out the view. She had a haudMme ■,^f^- ^im^ UHf • I ▲ TKAMP ABROAD. hmi' tmd ika wm rmy finely formad— >pMf ImAy fonnad, I shoold say. Bat iha nutda «*«rybo^ •ra«nd li«r loak ftriTuJ and oon- BJMiMlaoai Ladiaa naar bar lookad lika akiMND, and tlia men about her looked mua. They looked like failnrea ; and thev looked aa if they felt lo, too. She lat wiui liar baok to na. I never aaw auoh a back in my life. I woald haTe ao liked to aae the BMiea riie over it. The whole oongregation waited, under one pretext or another, till aha finiahed her dinner and went ont ; they wanted to aee her at her fall altitude, and they found it worth tarrying for. She filled nne'a idea of what an empreaa onght to be, whfn ehe roee ap in her nnapproaohable Krahdear and moTed aoperbly out of that place. We were not at Leuk in time to aee her at her heavieat weight. She had aaffered from corpalenoe and had oome there to get rid of her extra fieeh in the hatha. Five weeka of aoaking — five yninterrnpted hours of it every duy— had aoeomplisbed her purpose and re- duced her to the right proportious. Thoee baths remove fat, and also skin- diseases. The patienta remain, in the great tanks hours at a time. A dozen gentlemen and ladies occupy a tank together, and amuae themselves with rompiogs and various games. They have floating deaks and tables, and they read or lunch or play ohess in water that is breaat deep. The tourist oan atep in and view this novel spectacle if he ohooiMB. There'a a poor-box^ and he will have to oontribnte. There are aeveral of these big bathing booses, and yon can always tell when yon are near one of them by the romping noises and shouts of laughter that proceed from it. The water is mnmog water, and changes all the time, else a patient with a ringworm might take the bath witti only a partial auooess, since while he was ridding himself of his ring worm, he might catch the itch. The next morning we wandered baok up the green valley, leisurely, with the curving walls of those bare and stupendous preoipioes ribing into the clouds before us. I had never SPOD a clean bare precipice stretching ap live liiouaand feet above me be{ore,and I uiall nev- er expect to see another one. They exist, per- haps, but not in places where one oau easily get close to thenu This pile of stone is pe- onliar. From its base to the soaring tops of its mighty towers, all its lines and all its de- tails vaguely suggest human aiohitecture. There are rudimentary bow windows, oor- nices, chimneys, demarcations of stories, etc. One could ait and stare up there and study the features and exquisite graces of this grand •tmotora^ bit by bit^ and day after day, and navar weaiy hia intareat The termination, toward the tow% obaarve^ in profile, ia the perfection of ahape^ It oomea down out of the olonda in a auooeasion of rounded, oo> loaaal, tenmee-likeprojeetion— a stairway for the goda ; at ita head apring several lofty atorm-sowrred towera, one above another, with faini filma of vapour curling alwaya about them like speotnl banners. If there I were a king whoae realma included the whole I world, hara would be the palace meet and proper for auch a monarch. He would only need to hollow it oat and pat in the electio light. He could give audience to a nation at a time under its roof. Our search for those remains having failed we inspected with a glass the dim and distant track of an old time avalanche that once awept down from aome pine grown summits behmd the town and swept away the houses and buried the people ; then we struck down the road that leads toward the Rhone, to see the famona Ladders. Ttiese perilous things are built against the perpendicular face of a olifiF two or three hundred feet high. The peasanta of both sexes were climbing up and down them, with heavy loads on their backs. I ordered Harris to make the ascent, sb I coald put the thrill and horror of it in my book, and he accomplished the feat success- fully, through a sub-agent for three francs, wnich I paid. It mak'is me shudder yet when I thiak of what I felt when I was ding- ing there between heaven and earth in the person of that proxy. At times the world awam around me, and I could hardly keep from letting go, so dizzying was the appiding danger. Many a person would have given up and descended, but I stuck to my task, and would not yield until I had accomplished it. I felt a just pride in my exploit, but I would rot have repeated it for the wealth of the world. I shall break my neck yet with such fool-hardy performances, for warnings never seem to have any lasting effect upon me. When the people of the hotel found that 1 had been ulimbing those crazy Ladders, it made me an object of considerable dis- tinction. Next morning, early, we drove to the Rhone valley and took the train for Vtxp. There we shouldered our knapsacks and things, and set out on foot, in a tremendous rain, up the winding gorge toward ^ermatt. Hour Mtor hour we slopM along by the roar- ing torrent, and under noble Lesser Alps which were clothed in rich velvety green all tbe way up and had little atomy Swiss homes perchud upon grassy benches along their mist-dimmed heights. Tbe rain continued to pour and the torrent to boym, and W9 ^«tinued to enjoy both. mm * g^ niiiAtion, !«, ia the rn out of ad«d, 00- irwurfor )ral lofty anothor. If there ihe whole meetftod >ald only lie eleotio nation pit lag failed id diitanft bhat onoe lummits tie hooMS lok down ae, toiee iUB things face of a h. The ig np and sir baoka. cent, ab I ' it in my t auooeas- ee franoa, dder yet «raa oliug< th in the the world rdly keep sappaling bve given my task, ampliahed oit, bat I wealth of yet with warninga feot upon )tel found r Laddera, ■able dia* I to the for Vi-p. acka and emendoaa iSermatt. the roar* ■aer Alpa r green all my Swisa hea alonft he torrent ijoy both. ,> A TRAMP ABROAD. At the one ipot where thia torrent toaaed ita idiito Buuie bigheat, and thnndered loudeat, and laahed the big bonldera fieMaat, the oan> ton had done itaelf the honour to build the fliauieit weoden bridge that eziata in the world. While we were walking orer it, akmg with a party of faoraemen, I notieed Itet even the larger rain*dropa nmde it akakflk I flialled flarria'a attention to it^ and he notieed it, too. It aeemed to me that if I owned an elephant that waa » keepaake, ftfid I-thoufuht a good deal of him, t would think twioe before I wonld ride him over that bridge. "W* elimbed np to the village of St. Nioholaa, about half paat four in the afternoon, waded ankle deep through the fertiHier.Juice, and atopped at a new and nice hotel oloae by the little ohurch. We atripped and went to bed, and aent our olothea down to be baked. All the horde of aoaked tonriata did the asme. That ohaoa of olothiog f. CHAPTER XXXIV. •4-I ■<■««• We did not overaleep at St. Nioholaa. The ohuroh bell bef;an to ring at 4:30 in the morning and from the length of time it eon* tinned to ring I judged that it takea the Swiaa ainner a good while to get the invit»> tion through tua head. Moat ohurch bella in the world are of poor quality, and have a harah and rasping aound which upaeta the temper and prtMluoea much ain, but the St. Nioholaa bell ia a good deal the worat one that haa bee^^ ocntrived yet, and ia peon* liarly maddenini{ in ita operation. Still, it may have ita right and ita excuae to exiat, for the community ia poor and not every citiaen can afford a dock, perhapa ; but there cannot be any excuse for our church bella at home, for there ia no family in America without a dock, and conaequently there ia no fair pretext for the uaual Sunday medley of dreadful aounHs that iaauea f/om our ateeplea. There ia muoh more profauoity in America on Sunday than in all the .other six daya of the week put together, and it ia of more bitter and malignant character than the week-day profanity, too. It ia prodno* ed by the cracked-pot danger of the cheap cimroh bella. We build our churchea almoat without without regard to coat ; we rear an edifice which is an adornment to the town, and we gild it, and freacoe it, and mortgage it, and do everything we can think of to pwfect it, and then apoil it all by putting a bell on it which afflicta everybody who heara it, giv- ing some the headache, others St. Vitoa'a danue,and the reat the blind-staggers. An Amerioan village at ten o'clock on o summer Sunday ia the quietest and peace* fuleat and holieat thing in nature ; but it it a pretty different thing half an hour later, Mr. Poe'a poem of the ' Bella ' atanda inoom* plete to thia day ; bntf.it ia wdl enougll that it ia ao, for the public reciter ov ' reader ' who goea around trying to imitate the aonnda of the vahoua-aorta of bella with hia voice wonld find himaelf ' up a stump ' ''^. vj-.i^'-'U ^ 1 ' ■ V-' ■ i'Vui'' '.'-.: 8 ^'-'--'^SfliWW'W''- W-^ 106 A TRAIIJ* ABROAD. wheo h« go* to the oharoh Ml— «■ Jowph Addiioa would uy. Th* oharoh m alwsv** trying to g«t othor pooplo to reform ; it might not be • bed idee to reform iteelf • Utfie, by way of exempla It it etiU oUog- ing to ooe or two thinge whioh were aiofol onoe, bat whioh ero oot aiefol bow» neither ere ^y omemental. One ie the bell-riogina to remind n olook^»ked town that it ii oharoh time, end enother ie the reeding from the palpitof n tedioae liit of 'notieee' whioh everybody who ie intereeted hM elreedy read in the newspaper. The clergyman even reade the hymn throagh, — a relio of an ancient time when hymn books were soarce and eoatly ; but everybody has a hymn book, now, and so the pablio reading is no l like butt end of a huge glacier, which look> ed down on us from an Aliune height which was weU up in the blue eky. It was an aatonishing amount of ice to be compacted together in one mass. We ciphered upon it and decided that it was ^ot less than several hundred feet from the base of the wall of the solid ice to the top of it — Harris believed it was really twice that. We jad- ftttd that if St. Paiil'o, St. Pefer's, the Oreat Pyramid, the Stratibarg Cathedral and the Capitol at Wa«hiD(ctoa were clustered against that wall, a man Hitting on its upper edge could not hang hie hat on the top of any oae of them without reaching down three or four hundred feet— a thing which of course no man could do. To me, that mighty glacier waa very beautiful. I did not imagine that anybody ooultl find fault with it ; but I was mis- taken. Harris had been nariing lot several day*. He was a rabid Prataatan^ and ko waa always saying,— * In tha Protestant oantona job boot sea such poverty and dirt and sqoalor as yom do IB tUa Oatholio one t you nevw aeatha loBea and alleys flowing wiui foulnesa } yon naver see snob wratohed little styes eared dofgt in a Protestant canton.' Then it waa with the roads : * They don't leava the roads to make themselves in a Protsatant canton, the people make them, — and tiiey make ai road that is road, too.' Next it waa tiie goats : * You never see a goat ahadding teara in a Protectant canton — a goat, there, is one of the ehoerfalest objects in natara.' Next it waa the chamois : < You never see a Protestant chamois aot Uke one of Uieee, — they take a bite or two and go ; bat these fellows camp with you and stay.' Then i^ waa the guide-boarde : ' In a Protestant cm • ton you couldn't get loet if yon wanted to, but you never see a guide-board in a Catholio canton.' Next, ' Yon never see any flower* boxee in the windows, here^ — never anything but now aad then a oat, — a torpid one ; bat you take a Protectant cantmt, windowa per* feetly lovely with flowers,— and as for oats, there's just acres of them. Theee folks in this canton leave a road to make itself, and then fine yon three francs if you ' trot ' over it — as if a horse could trot over such a sar> casmof a road.' Next about the goitre: * They talk about goitre i— I have'nt aeon a goitre in this whole oanton that I oould'nt put in a hat.' He had growled at everything, but I judg- ed it would puszle him to find anything the matter with this majestic glacier. I intimat- ed as much; but he was ready, and said with surly discontent, — ' You ought to see them in the Protest* tant cantons.' This irritated me. But I ooncealed the feel' 'Ik', autter with this one ?' ' Matter? Why, it ain't in any kind proaohing , one of them, a little girl about eight years old, was running ; when pretty dose to us she stumbled and fell, aud her feet skot nnder the rail of the fence and for a moment projected over the stream. It gave us a sharp shook, for we thought she was gone, sure, for the ground slanted steep- ly, and to save herself seemed a slieer impos- sibility; bet she maoagud to scramble up, and ran by us laughing. We went forward and ezamined the place and saw the long tracks which her feet had made in the dirt when they darted oyer the Verge. If she had finished hei trip she would have struck some big rocks in the edge of the #ater, and then the torrent would have snatched her down stream among the half* covered bowlders and she would have been pounded to pulp in two minutes. We had oome exceedingly near witnessing her death. And now Harris' contrary nature and in- born selfishness were strikingly raanifested. He has no spirit of self-deniM. He began straight off, aud continued for an hour, to express, his gratitude that the child was not destroyed. I never saw such a man. That was the kind of person he was ; just so he was gratified, he never cared any tiling about anylrady else. I had noticed this traic in him over and over again. Often, of oourse, it was mere heedlessness, mere want of reflec- tion. Doubtlessthismay have been the case in most instances, but it was not the less hard t>j bear on that account— and after all, its bottom, its groundwork, was selfishness. There is no avoiding that oonolusion. In the instance under consideration, I did think tka indecency of running on in that way might oecur to him ; bat no, tha child wa» saved and ha was glad, that wa« soffloisat— 4m oared not a straw for my feelingly or my loss of snob a literary plam, anatdMd from my very mouth ai the mstantiiwas raadv to dr^ into ii Hir selfishnsss was sumciant to i^aoa lus own gratifioatioa in being spared suffering dear before all oonoom for mot his friend* Ap- parently he did not onee reflect upon the valuable details wkioh would have fallen like a windfall to me : fishing the ohild oat- witnessing the surprise «l tiio ftimily and the stir the thing would have made among the peasants— tiien a Swiss fnneral-— then the roadside monument* to be paid tor by us and have our names mentioned in it. And we should have gone into Baedeker and been immwtaL I waa silenti I was too much hurt to complain. If ha oould aet so, aud be so heedless and so frivolous at such a time, and actually seem to glory in it, after all I had done for him, I would have out my hand off before I would let him see that I was wounded. We were approaohing Zermatt ; conse- quently we were approaohing the renowned Matterhorn. A month before, this moun- tain had been only a nameftojus, but latterly we had been moving through a stMdily thickening double row of pictures of it, done in oil, water, chromo, wood, steel, copper, crayon and photosraphy, and so it Laa at length become a shape to us— and a very distinct, decided, and familiar one too. We were expecting to reoogniae that mountain whenever or wherever we should run across it. We were not deoeived. The monarch was far away when we first saw him, but there was no such thing as mistaking him. He has the rare peculiarity of stanuing by himself ; he ie peealiarly steep, t<*o, and is also most oddly shaped. He towers into the sky like a colossal wedge, with the upper third of its blade bent a little to the lef t> The broad base of this monster wedge is planted upon a grand glaoier-paved Alpine platform, whose devation is ten thousand feet above sea levd ; as the wedge itself is some five thousand feet high, it follows that its apex is about fifteen .thousand feet above sea level. So the whole bulk of this stately iiieoe of rock, this sky-cleaving monolith, is above the line of etorual snow. Yet while all its giant neighbours have the look- ci being built of solid snow, from their waists up, the Matterhorn stands black and naked and forbidding, the year round, or merely powdered or streaked with white in places, for its sides are se steep that the saew can- not stay there. Its strang« form, its aa^ust isniatioo, and its majestic unkinship with its ■'';! MI' [! ! I I ^1 ' fl ^■^^mmmm i^M % ' 106 ▲ TKAMP ABROAD. own kind, make ifc— «o to apeak — the Napo* leon of tbe moontain world. **OraB(l, gloomy, and peooliart" ia aphraae whioh Eta it aa aptiy aa it fitted the great oaptain. Think of a monament a tnile IriKht atand- ing on a pedeotal two milea high ! This la what the Mftterhora is— a monoment. Ita oAoe, henoeforth, for all time, will be to keep watch and ward over the aeoret resting* plaM of yoang Lord Doaglas, who,' in 1865, was preoipita^ from thO summit orer a preoipice 4,000 feet high, and nerer seen again. No man OTer had aseh a monament aa this before ) the moel imponng of the world's other niottnmsata are bttt atoms oompared to it ; and tiiey will perish, and their placea will pau from memory, bnt this will remain.* A walk from St. Niobolas to Zttrmatt is a wonderfal ezperienoe. Nature is built on a stupendous plan in that region. One marches oontinnally between walla chat are piled int9 the skies, with their npper heights broken into a oonfuoion of sublime shapes, that gie*ia white and ooldagaiustthe background of blue ; and here and there one see« a big glaoier displaying its grandenrs on the top of a preoipioe, or a graoeral qasoade leaping and flashing down the green ^teolivitiea. There is nothing tame, or oheap, or trivial — it is all magnificent. That raort yalley is a {no- ture gdlery of a notable, kind, for it contains no mediocrities ; from end to end the Crea- tor has hung it with his masterpieoes. We made Zermatt at 3 in vm afternoon, nine hoars out from St. Nioholaa. Distance, by guidO'book, 12 milea, by pedometer 73. We were in the heart and home of the moantain>oIimbers, now, aa visible things testified. The snoW'peaka did not hold themselves aloof, in aristooratio reserve, they nestled olose wround, in a friendly, sociable ^*y ; guides, with the ropes and axes, and other implements of their fearful calling alnng about their persons, roosted in a Ions line upon a stone wall in front of the hote^ and waited for customers ; sunburned climb* era, in mountaineering oostume, and followed by their {guides and porters, arrived from time to time, from break-neok expeditions among the peaks and glaciers of the High Alps ; male and female tourists, on mules, filed by, in a oontinnoua procession, hotel- * The accident which ooet Lord Douglas his Ufe^ (see ohM>ter 41) also cost the lives of three odier men. Theee three fell four-flf ths of a ndle, aad their bodies were afterwards found. Ijing side by side, upon a slacier, whenoe ther wereibome to Zermatt and buried in the ohnrohard. The rQinaina of Lord Ooufflas liave never been found. The secret of his sepui> ture, Hke that of Moses, muat remain a mystery ward bound from wild adventarea dwhioh woald grow tit' f^randeur every time th^ wera dMoribad at the' English or American fireside, and at laat dt^tgtow the poanbla itself ■ ■ ■ /: ^-' ; ■■" ^'"^^ ■ We were obi di«pittln|t|tUa waaaota mako*btiieta ' hoilik^ of thij Alp-oIia^bar« cieatfd by, oar heated imaginations t tio, for here was Mr. (Ihrdlsatone kimtelf, tha famous Englishman, whohunts bis way to the moot formidabw Alpfni) sntntdits Without a Slide. I waa not equsl to imagining a irdleatone; it waa all I oonld do to even realiae him, while looking atraight at him at short ranse. I would r*ther faoe whola Hyde Parka of artillery tfaui the ghastly forma of death whioh he has faced i^mong the peaks and preoipioea of the moantaina. There is probably no pleasure equal to the pleasure of climbing a dangerous Alp , bat It is a pleasure which is confined strictly to people who can find 'pleasure in it. I have not jumped to thii oonclaaioni I have travelled to it per sravel train, so to speak. I have thought ^e thing all out, and am quite sure I am right. A born climber's appetite for climbing is hard to satisfy; when it oomea upon him he is like a starving man with a feast before him ; he may have other business on hand, but it must wait. Mr. Oirdleatone had bad his usual summer holiday in the Alps, and had spent it iu hia nsual way, hunting for unique chances to break his neck; his Vacation waa over, and hia lu(i^ge packed for England, but idl of a sudden a hanger had come upon him to ?Umb the tremendona Weisshom once more, for he had heard of a new and utterly im- possible route np it. His bucgage waa an- Ccked at onoe, and now he and a friend, len with knapsacks, ice-axes, coils of rope, and oanteena of milk, were just setting out. They woald spend the night high up among the snows, somewhere, and get up at 2 in the morning and finish the enterprise. I had a strung desire to so with them, but forced it down— a feat which Mr. Girdlestone, with all his fortitude, could not do. Even ladies catch the climbing mania, and are unable to throw it off. A famous climber, of that sex, had attempted the Weisshom a few days before our arrival, and she and her s^nidOs had lost their way in a snowstorm high ap among the peaks and glaciers and been forced to wander around a good while before thev could find a way down. When this lady reached the bottom, she had been on her feet twenty-three hours I Oar guides, hired on the Gemmi, were already at Zermatt when we reached ther» Bo there was nothing to interfere with ouk getting np an adventure whenever we should y.., -f .. s^; .iZLV JL TRAMP ABROAD. Oi k$ ware d tber» 'ith on\ ■hoald ohoMe the time and the objeefe. I remlved to deTote ny flnt eveniDg ia Z«riD«tt to stadying up the rabjeot of Alpine olimbiiig, by way of prepwrstioii. I reed MTonl booka, and here ere aome <)f the things I fpaipd oat. Ooe's ihoei mnst be ■trong end heity. and have pointed hob- naili in them. Tlie a^^fenetook mast be of the best wood, for if it should break, loss of life might be the result. One diould carry an axe, to cut stepe in the ioe with, on the great heights. There musk be a ladder, for there are steep bits of rook which can be rarmonnted with fhii instrument— or this utensil— bnt could not be sur- mounted without it ; sueh an obstmotion has oompelled tne tourist to waste hours hunting anotner route, when a ladder would have saved him all trouble. One must have from 100 to 600 feet of Btrong rope, to be used in lowering the party down stsep deoliTities which are too steep and smooUi to be tra- versed in any other way. One mnst have a stert hook, on another rope, a very useful thins ; for when one is ascending and cornea to alow bluff Which is yet too high for the ladder, he swings this rppe aloft like a laaao, the hook catches at the' top of the bluff, and then the tourist climbs, hand over hnnd — being always particular to try and forget that if the hook gives way he will never stop falling till he arrives in some part of Swit- lerland where they are not expecting him. Another important thing— there inust be a rope to tie the whole party together witii, so that if one falls from a mountoin or down a bottomless ohaam in a glacier, the others may brace back on the rope and save him. One must have a silk veil, to protect his face from snow, aleet. hail »nd gale, and coloured goggles to protect hiaeyea from that dangerous enemy ,Bnow-blindneaa. Fi- nidly, there mnst be some porteia to carry provisions, wine and scientifio instrument and also blanket bags for the party to sleep I dosed my reading with a fearful adven- ture which Mr. Whympet once had on the Matterhorn when he was prowling around alone, 0,000 feet, above the town of Breil. He was edging his way gingerly around the eomer of a precipice where the upper edge of • sharp declivity of ice-glazed snow joined it. This declivity swept down a couple of hundred feet, into a gully which curved •round and ended at a precipice 800 feet lugh, oyerlookins a glacier. His foot diwed, and be feU. He says :— 'My knapsack brought my head down first, and I pitched into some rooks about a doien feet below ; they caught aometbing, and tumbled me off the edge, head ever heela, into the gully t the baton was dashed from my hands, and I whirled downwards in a series of bounds, each longer than the last ; now over ice, now into r^^, striking my head four or five times, eacn time with in- orcaeed force. The last hound sent me spinning through the air in a, leap of fifty or sixty feet, from one side of the gully to the L ther. and I siruok the rooks, luckily, with the whole of my lef^ side. They oaught my olo^hes for a moment, and I fell blMtk on to the snow with motion wrrested. My head fortunately came the r^ht side np, vui a fc)w frantic catches bronght me to a halt^ in tl^e neck of the gifUy and on tiie verge of the precuuoe. Batmi, h*t and ^^ ekimmed by and disappeared, and the brash of the rooks —which I had started— as they fell on to the glacier, told how narrow had been the escape from utter destruction. As it was. I fell nearly 200 feet in seven or eight bonnds. Ten feet more would have taken me in one gigantio leapofSOO feet on to the glacier below. "The situation was sn£Bciently serious. The rocks could not be let go for a moment, and the blood was spurting out of more than twenty cuts. The most serious ones were in the head, and I vainly tried to olose them with one hand, whilst holding on with the other. It was useless; the blood gushed out in blinding jets at each pulsation. At last, in a moment of inapiration, I kicked Out a big lump of anew and atnck it as plas- ter on my head. The idea was a happy one, and the flow of blood diminiahed. Then, acrambling up, I got, not a moment too aooo, to a place of aafety, and fainted away. The ann was setting^ when eonsoious- ness returned, and it was pitch dark before the Great Staircase was descended ; but by a combination of luck and care, the whole 4,700 feet of descent to Breil was accomplish- ed without a slip, or once miaaing the way.' Hia wounds kept him abed some days. Then he got up and climbed that mountain again. That is the way with a true Alp- climber ; the more fun he has, the more he wants. OH AFTER XXXVII. After I had finished my readings, I was no longer myself ; I was tranced, uplifted, intoxicated, by the almost incredible perils and adventures I had been following my kuthors through, and the triumphs I had been abai ing with them. I s^t silent some time, and tbeu turned to Harris and said — ' My mind is made up.' Somethipgin my tone stmek him ; and when he glanced at my rro end read I m ' ''1 ■M •> > UO il TRAMP ABROAD, wh«k WM written tbare, hii fao« pftled pwoeptibly. fl« hMitatad • momrat; than mill 'Speak.' I aoewered with perf«ot4aImneM->- *I will Moeod the RifferlbarK,' A I hed ihot my poor friend he oonid not beve fallen from Bu ohair more raddenly. If r ha«l b«en hie father he ooald not have {deeded harder to get me to give ap my pur* pose. .Bat I tamedndeaf ear to all he said. W jen be perceived at laat that nothing eonld alter my determinatioa, he oeeaed to arge, and for a while the deep lilence was broken only by hie lobi. I eel in nutrble reeolotion, with my eyee fixed upon vaoanoy, fQrin ipirit I WM already WNetliOg with the perila of the mountaine, and my friend ■atgaxing at me in adoring admiration through hie ter 'v. At laat he threw himielf npon me in a loving embraoe andezolalmcd in broken tonea: < Your Harris will ne?«r deeurl yon. We will die together 1' 1 cheered the noble fellow with prai i ee, and soon his fears were forgotten and he was eager for tiie adventure. He wanted to summon the guides at onoe and leave at two in the mornings as he supposed the custom was ; but I explained that nobody was look* ing, at that hour ; and that the start in the dark was not usually made from the village but from the first night's resting plsoe on the mountain sid^ I said we would leave the villsge at three or four p.m. on the morrow; meantime he oonld notify the guidei^ and also let the public know of the attempt which we proposed to make. 1 w«At to bed, but not to sleep. No man oan deep when he is about to undertake one (ti these llpine exploits. I tossed feverishly all night long, and was glad enough when I hoMrd the dock strike half past eleven and knew it was time to get np for dinner. I rose jaded and rostv, and went to the noon meal, where I found myself the centre of interest and curiosity ; for the news was al* ready *l«oad. It is not SMy to eat calmly when you are a lion, but it is very pleasant, Bevertheleas. As usual, at Zormatt, when a great ascent is about to be undertaken, everybody, native and foreign, laid aside his own projects and took up a good position to observe the start. The expedition consisted of 198 persons, in> eluding the moles; or 200, induding the eowB. As follows: Oxzan or SHEYicSi t lA 1 1 1 IS 1 1 1 \ 1 17 iS S 1 7 S Surgi AfoTogist. Bocanlst. ChapliSas. Dreftsmta. Barkeeweia. LaUblak SVBOBOIKATIt* ▼eterlnary Hmrgeen. Butter. Walters. Footman. Harber. Uekd Oook. Assistants. Pastrjr Cooks. Oonfeutionerr Artist. TsAiisfOKrAnoKt na Portesk Mulee. Muleteers. roarse Washers gnd boners. Fine ditto. CJows, Millcers. .■_.!' . 't ■ tt« •a ■■;) •■ :.)* ■ ^^ ■i •n '?> fa 'rtH! Total. «M men, 61 anitaals. Qraad TotfO. Mft. ■hk-V Mysdf. Mr.Hairis. Guides. i^k: U s as 1 I 1.000 1 14S 2 1 S7 S5 2 2 ti 91 ? 82 S IM BATioira, na OaseeHams. Barrels Flour. Barrels Whiskey. Barrel Soffar. Kec Lemons. Uigars. Barrel ^es. Ton of Pemmloan. Pair Cnitohef. BanelH Aroioa. BaieofUnt. KegsPwregoria ArPARATVS. Spring Mattrasses. Haircaito. Bedding (or same. MoBquito Nets. Tents. Solentiflo InstruraentSk ICO l>XQS- OasesDtna'nite. Oans Nitro-gl7oerine« 40-foot Liadaers. Milce of R^p*. Umbreliaa. n-.i ■d JUU It was fnU four o'clock In ike Umin^ before my cavdcade was entirdy ready. A^ that hour it began to move, In pomt of numbara and spectacular effect, it was t^e meet imposing expedition that had ever marched from Zermatt. I commanded the chief guide to arrange the men and animals in single fiM, twelve feet apart, and lash them all together on a strong rope: He objected that the first tWo miles wss a dead level, with ]^ent^ of room, and that the rope was never used except in very dsBgetons placds. But I would not A TRAMP /'iROAD. HI ^ .t ■a: li«t«n to that. My rekdisf h*d tonght im that mMiy wirioai aaeidenta had hftpp«ut)«l in th« Alpa timpljr from not hnring the peopit tieiT op Mwn enongh ; I wm not R^ioR to ndd oto« to the lUt The Rui^e tiien obeyed bt order. wImb the prootfteion etood et eeie, roped together, and ready t«i inoTD, I never eaw a wer sight It was 3,122 feet long— over half a mile ; every man bat Harria and me waa on foot, and had on hit green veil and hii bine goggles, and his white rag aronnd his hat, and his ooil of rope over one shoulder and nnder thb other, and his ioe • axe in his belt, and oarried his alpenstock in his left hand, his nmbrella (oloied) in his riffht,and bia orutoh- es slang at his back. The hardens of the pack males and the horns of the oows were decked with the Edelweiss and the Alpine rose. I and my agent were the only persons monnted. We were in the post of danger, in the extreme rear, and tied secnrely to five gnidea apiece. Oar armour- bearers carried oar ice-axes, alpenstecks and other imple* ments for as. We were monnted upon very small donkeys, as a measnre of safety ; in time of penl we ooald strainhteo oar legs and stand up, and let the donkey walk from nnder. Still, I cannot recommend this sort c* animal — at least for excarsions of mere pleaanre — ^because hi« ears interrupt the view. I and my agent possessed the regnia- tion mountaineering ooBtames,but conolualty ; so we all went toR«tner. For better seeari^ we moved slew and cantionaly, for the forest was very dense. We did not move np the mountaw but aronnd it, hoping to strike across the old trsiiL Toward nightfall, when ! •'■ „ 1.1 m i i I I ^w*ii»ll#^-i'»-!iBiP'iW«' y \ * h2 A A TRAMP ABROAD. y • J w« ware aboot tired ont, we oftine up Agaioat • rook M big at a ootU((«. ThU Larriar took all th« ramaiDing spirit oat qt tha man, and a paoio of fear and deapair anaofd. Thay moanad and waot, and aaid thay ihoold navar aea thair uomea and their drar onea ac(ain. Tban they bo^au to npbraid ma for briBgiDg tham apoa thia fatal azpeditioo. Some avan mattarad thraata Mainat ma. Clearly it wai no tima to anow waaknaaa. So I mada a apaaob, in which I aaid that othar Alp-oliinbara bad bean in aa pariloaa a pqaitionaa tkia, and yet by ooaraga and perseverance had eaoaped. I promuad to atand by them, I promiaad to reaone tham. I oloaed by aaying we had plenty of pro. viaiona to maintalo na for qaita a aiage, — and did they aoppose Zerntatt wonld ulow half a mile of men and mulea to myaterionaly ' diaappear daring any considerable time, right above their noaea, and make no in- qairiea ? No, Zermatt woald aend out acarohing azpeditiona and we shonld be tared. Thia apeeoh had a great effect The men pitched the tenta with aome little ahow of oheerfulneaa, and we were snagly ander eover when the night ahat down. I now -eaped the reward of my wiadom in provid- iog one article which ia not mentioned in any book of Alpine adventnre bat thia. I rerar to the paregoric. Bat for that benefi- cent drag, not one of thoae men woald have alept a moment daring that fearfal night. Bat for that gentle peranader they maat have toaaed. anaoothed, the night throagh— forth* whiakey waa for me. Yea. they woald have riaen in the morning unfitted for their heavy taak. Aa it waa, everybody alept bat my agent and me— only we two and the bar- keepera. I woald not permit myaalf to aleep at each a time. I considered myaelf reaponaible for all thoae Uvea. I meant to be on hand aud ready, in caae of avalanuhea. I am aware now that there were no ava- lanchea up there, bat I did not know it then* We watched the weather all throush that awfal night, and kept an eye on the barom- eter, to be prepared for the leaat change. There waa not the alighteat change recorded by the inatrament daring the whole time. Worda cannot describe the comfort that friendly, hopefal, ateadfaat thing waa to me in that aeaaon of tronble. It was a.defeotive barometer, and had no hand bnl the ata- tionary brasa pointer, bat I did not know that antil afterward. If I ahonld be in anch a aitaation again, I shonld not wiah for any barometer bat that ooe. All hands rose at 2 in the morning and took breakfast, and as soon aa it waa light we roped ourselvea together and went at that rook. For aome tima we tried the hook-rope and other meana of acaJing it, but without aucoasa. That ia without perfect aneoaaa. The* hook oanaht once, and Harris started op it hand over hand, but the hold broke, and if there had not happened to be a chaplain sitting nndemeath at the time, Harris would oertaiuly have been crippled. As it waa. it waa the chaplain. He took to hia orutohea, and I ordered the hook-rope to be laid aalde. It waa too dangeroua an im- Slement where ao many people were aUnd* igaround. We were pnuled for a while ; then aome- body thouffht of the laddera. One of theae waa leaued againat the rook, and the men went up it tied together in oouplea. Another ladder was sent np for use in descending. At the end of half au hour everybod y wa» over, and that rock waa conquered. We gave our firat grand about of triumph. But tha joy waa ahurt-lived, for aomebody aaked how we were going to get the animala over. Thia was a aerioua difficulty ; in fact it waa an impoaaibility. The courage of the men began to waver immediately ; once more we were threatened with a panic. But when the danger waa moat immuent, we were aaved in a myaterioua way. A mule, which had attracted attention from the be- ginning by itadiapoaition to experiment, tried to eat a five-pound can of nitro-glyoerine, Thia happened right alongside the rook. The explosion threw ua all to the ground, and covered na with dirt and debria ; it fright- ened ua extremely, too, for the craah it made waa deafening, and the violence of the ahook made the ground tremble. However, we were srateful, for the rock waa gone, ita place waa ooonpied by a new cellar, about thirty feet acroaa, by fifteen feet deep. The exploaion waa heard aa far as Zermatt ; and an hour and a half afterward, many citisena of that town were knocked down and ^aite aerioua- ly injured by descending portions of mule meat, frozen solid. This shows, better than any estimate in figures how high the ex- perimenter went. We had nothing to do, now, but hridse the cellar and proceed on our way. With a cheer the men went at their work. I at- tended to the engineering, myaelf. I ap- pointed a strong detail to out down trees with ice-axes and trim them for piers to sup- port the bridgOi This waa a dow buaineaa, for ice-axes are not sood to out wood witii. I cauaed my piera to o« firmly set up in ranks in the cellar, and upon them I laid six ef my forty-foot laddera, aide by side, and laid aiz more on top of them. Upon thia bridge I caused a bed of boughs to be spread. I ,»^^,^.MiJi)HmAs>.f *tm»m'»»nD'^.-^y.^.; .♦1/ ^ TRAMP ABROAD. Its t bridgfl the ■tMtohad r then made the tow-rope fast to the rear mule and save the command — ) " Sf ark time— by the right flank — ^forward , — inarch !" i The procession began to move, to the im< f pressive strains of a battle-ehant, and I said, ^ to mysslf, ' Now, if the rope don't break 1 1 judge this will fetoh that guide into the' camp.' I watched the rope gliding down • ttae hill, and presently when I was all fixed;, for triumph I was confronted by a bitter : disappointment : there was no guide tied to j the rope, it was only a very indignant old ' |W A TRAMP ABROAD. blaok ram. Tb« (ury of tb« baffled Szpc* dition exoMdcd all boandi. Th«y •▼•& wftDttd to wrMkk their QBrMwoaiBg tcb- gMoo* on this innooMkt danb bnito. Bnl I •stood between them end their prey, meneoed by » brletling well of ioe-exee end elpen* ■tooke, end uroolaimed that there wm bat ore roed to toie marder, end it wee directly over my corpse. Even aa I epoke I aaw that my doom waa eealed, ezoept a miraole euper' ▼ened to divert theee madmen from their fell purpose. I see that sioksning wall of weapoDS now ; I see that advancing host as I aaw it then. I see the hate in those omel eyes ; I remember how I drooped mv bead upon my brsast, I feel again the sna> den eartbanake shock in my rsar, administsrsa by the very ram I was saorifioing mysslf to save, I hsar once more tm typhoon of laughter that burst froin tha assaulting colnmn as I dove it from vsn to rsar like a Sepoy shot from a Rodman gun. I was saved. Yw, I was saved, and by the meioifnl instinot of ingratitude which nature had planted in the breast of that treacherous beasl The graoe which elo« qaenoe hsd failsd to work in those men's hearts, had been wrought by a laugh. The ram was set free and my life wa^ »pared. We lived to l^d ont that thMt kQide had deeerted us as soon as he had phMied a half mile between himself and us. To avert sas> pioion, he had judged it best thst the line ehould Continue to move ; so he caught that tam, and at tbo time that he was sitting on it makine the rope fast to it, we v?ere im- aginins that he was lying in a swoon, o 7er* oome by fatigue and diatress. When he al- lowed the ram to get np it fell to plunging around, trying to rid itaolf of the rope, and this was the signal which we had risen np with glad shouts to obey. We had foRowed this ram round &nd round in a circle all day — a thing which was proven by thedisoovery that we had watered the Expedition seven . times at one and thv same spring in seven hours. As expert a woodman as I am,I had somehow failed to notice this until my atten- tion was called to it by a hog. This hog waa always wallowing there, and as he was the only, hog we saw, his frequent i^peti- tion, together with his unvarying similarity to himself, finally caused me to reflect that be must be the lame bog, and this led me to the deduction that ih.in must be the same spriufT, also, — wiiich indeed it was. T made a note of this curious thing, aa shuwinsin a striking; manner the relative difference netween glacial action and the ac- tion of the hog. It is now a weU established (set, that glaciers move ; I consider that my obssrvatioM «o to show, with saual _ elnsivsnsss. that a hog in a spring does nsl move. I shaU bo glaid to rsosive tha opia« ions of other observers upon this pdal To return, for aa explanatory moment, ta that guide, and then I shsU be dena with him. After leaving the ram tied to the rops^ be had wandered at large (a while, and tkea happened to run aoross a oow. Jndging that a oow would 'naturally know morstnaa a guids, he took her bv the tail, and the re* eult justified his jndgmsol She nibbled her leisurely way down hiU tiU it was nsar milking time, then she struok for honM sad towed him into Zermatl OHAPTEB XXXVm. We weat into camp on that wild spot to whioh that ram had brought us. The mso were greatly fatigued. Their convioMoD that we were Icet waa forgotten in the cheer of a good supper, and bsfore the reaction had a chance to aet in, I loaded them up with paregoric and pnt them to bed. Next mornmg I was considsring in my mind our desperate situation and trying to think of a remedy, when Harris came to bm with a Baedeker map which showed ooa* dnsively that the mountain we were on was still in Switzerland— ;yes, every part of ift was in Switzerland, so we were not lost» after all. This was an immense relief ; it lifted the weight of two such mountains front my breast. I in\)nediately had the news dia* seminated,and the map exhibited. The efTeot was wonderful. As soon aa the men saw with their own eyes that they knew where they were, and that was only the summit that was lost and not tbemselvee, they cheered up instantly and said with one ao« cord, let Uie onnunit take care of itself, they were not interested in its tronhlss. Our distressss being at an end, I aow de« tormined to rest the men in oamp and give the scientific department of the Exhibition a chance. First, 1 made a barometric obeerva* tion, to get our altitude, but I could not perceive uiat there was any result. 1 knew, by my scientific reading, that either titer* mometors or harouattters ought tr> be boiled, to make thi£u toonrate ; I did not know which it was, so . boikd both. There was still no result ? so . ' ZK-iiined these instrn* menta and disccvc'i'> that .key posoessed radical blemishes: ;-h« 1:i.)v4>aiieter had no hand, but the hvusi yoiainL' and the hail of the tiiermometer was bta^fed with tin foiL I might have boiled these things to rags, and never found out anything. I hunted np another ^barometer ; it was new and perfect I boiled it half an hour in -*r-^-..,->*«r-«,||4(|,g|(,j^^^,. « (I, A TRAMP ABROADl llf mtX — doM Ml tint. ooMat, to lOM witk •BdtkM Jodring moraWM nd th« r«* M nibbtod \ WMOMT Id spol to ThemM conTiofeioo k iheohMT motion had n up with ring in my idtrviogto oame torn* bowed b« ere on WM part of il not kwl» relief ; it nteini f rot^o le newB dis* Theeffeot e men mw mew wher* rammit vee, th«T ith oneao* itMlf, thej Inowde* ip and giy* ixhibition » iric observa- oould not 1 knew, lither kher« be boiled, not know There WM initra* y poatMised had no the bftf. of th tiii foiL rage, and t. »r ; it waa an huur in • pol ol bean aoapwhioh the oooka were making. The reaolt waa anezpeoted : the inatrument waa not affeoked at all, but there waa raoh a atrong barometer ta«te to the aoap that the head co* wh.> vtraa a moat ooaaoieatioaa peraon. ohinged ita name in the bill of fare. The diah wm ao greatly liked by all, that I ordered the cook to have bar* ometer aoap ev err day. It waa believed that the barometer might eventoally be injared, bat I did not oare for that. 1 had demon* •trated to my aatiafaotion that it ooald not tell how high a moantain was, therefore I had no real aae for it Ohangea of th^ weather I ooald toke oare of withoat i^ - i did not wiah to know when the weathe. .< >a going to be good, what I wauted to k' ')w waa when it waa going to bad, iiad tnu x ooald find oat from Harris' oori> Uarria had had lua oorna tested anH ,, ' .»tedat the government observatory in iidideiberg, and one ooald depend upon them with oon* fidenoe. So I tranaferrod the new barometer to the oooking department, to be ased for the official mesa. It waa foand that even a pretty lair article of soap oould be made with a defective barometer; ho I allowed that one to be transferred to th» subordinate meaaes. I next boiled the thermometer, and got a moat excellent result ; the meroary wenc np to about 200° Fahrenheit In the opinion of the other aoientists of the Expedition, this aeemed to indioato that we had attained the extraordinary altitade of 200,000 feet above sea level. JMienoe placea the line of eternal snow at about 10,000 feet above sea level. There waa no snow whsre we were, oonbe- qnently it waa proven that the eternal snow line oeaaea aomewhere above the 10,000 foot level and doea not begin any more. This was an interesting fact, and one that had not been observed by any observer before. It was as valuable as iateroiitinfi;, too, since it would open up the *' ler* d summits of the hifl;be8t Alps to po^w... I .. '.'.nd agrionltare. Ic w ;b a proud tb j j. eie wb w, yet it caused us »>i • leotthat but for that ram we migut just as well have been 200,000 feet higher. This Buooeaa of my last experiment in- I'uoed me. to try an experiment of my photo- ^rapUio apparatus. I got it out, and boiled one of my cameras, but the thing was a fail- ure : it made the wood swell up and burst, und I oould not see that the lenses were any bettor than they were before. I now noucluded to boil a guide. It might improve him, it oould not impair hia useful- lie ^ ButlwasDot allowed to proceed. Guides havtt no tooling for science, and this one would not oonaaat to be aiada unoomf ortobit in its interaat In the midat of my aeientlflo w rk. on* el thoae needleaa aooidenta happened wbioh ara alwaya ooourring ameng the iv;nerant an' thoughtleaa. A porter ahot at i ohamoia and miaaad it and crippled the Latiniai Thia was not a aerioaa matter to me. for • Latiniat'a dutiea are aawell performed oa omtohaa aa otherwise,— but the fact remala* ed that if the Latiniat had not happened to be in the way a mule would haro got thai I 'L That would have been qoito another *Mf for when it oomes down to a queetioB ; ^ there ia a palpable differaaoe b«> I xreen t. Latini<«t and a mule. I oould nol lopend on having a Latiniai in the righl ;^taoe every time ; ao, to make thinga safs^ I ordered that in hiture the ohamoia muat nol be hunted within the limito of the oani^ with any other weapon than the forefinger. My nervea had hardly grown quiet after thia affair when they got another acrape-un, — one whioh uttorly unmanned ma for a mo- ment : a rumour awept auddenly through the oamp that one of the barkeepera had fallen over a precipice t However it turned out that it waa only a chaplain. I had laid in aa extra force of chaplains, purpoaely to be prepared for emergenoiee like this,and by aome nnaocouni* able overaight had come away rather ahorl* handed in toe matter of barkeepen. On the following morning we moved on* well ref reahed andin good apirita. I remem- ber thia day with peculiar pleaaure, because it saw our road restored to us. Yea, w« found our road aoain, and in qoito an extia- ordinaryway. We had plodded along soma two honra and a half, when we came up against a solid mass of rook about twenty feet high. I did not need to be inatructed by a mule this time. — I waa already begin- ulog to know mare than any mule in the ex- pedition. — I at once put in a blast of dyna- mite, and lifted that rook out of the way. But to my surprise and mortifioatipn,I found that there had been a chalet on top of it I picked up such members of the family as fell in my vicinity, and anbordinatea of my corps ooUeoted the rest None of these poor people were injured, happily, but they were much annoyed. I explained to the head chaleteer just how the thing happened, and that I was onlj- kearohing for the road, and would oei Mdnly have given him timely notice if I had known he was np there. I aaid I had meant no harm, and hoped I had imt lowere>l mj^aelf in his estimation by raising him a few rods in the air. I said many other jadioioua things, and finally when I offered to rebutid his chalet, and pay for breakages, and throw ■i :i**||((^f*«'i*MPil* \ 116 A TRAMP ABROAD. in the cellar, he WM mollifled and wtisfied be hadn't any cellar at all before ; be would not Laye as sood a view now as formerly, but what ne had lost in view he had fained in cellar, by exact measurement, [e said there wasn't another hole like that in the mountains — and he would hare been right if the late mule had not tried to eat up the nitroglycerine. I put a hundred and sixteen men at work, and they rebuilt the ohalet from its own de* bris m fifteen minutes. It was a good deal more picturesque than it was before, too, The man said we were now on the Feli-Stutz. abo.v« the Sohwegpatt— information which I was slad to get, since it gave us our position b ' degree of particularity which we had not been accustomed to for a day or so. We al- so learned that we were standing at the foot of the Ki£felberg proper, and that the initial chapter of our work was completed. We had a fine view, from here, of the energetic VIbp, as it makes its first plunge iuto the world from under a huge m^ of solid ine, worn through the foot wall of the great Gorner Glacier ; and we could also see the Farggenbach, which is tiie outlet of tlie Furggen Glacier. Tue mule-road to the summit of tho Hiffeiberg passed right in front of the chalet, a circumstance which we almost immediately uoticed, because a procession of tourists was tiling along it pretty much all the time*. The chaleteer's business consisted in fur- nishing refreshments to tourists. My blast had interrupted thin trade for a few minutes, by breaking all the bottles on the place ; but I gave the man a lot of whiskey to sell for Alpine champagne, and a lot of vinegar which would answer for Rhine wine, conse- quently^ trade was soon as brisk as ever. Leaving the expedition outside to rest, I quartered myself in the chalet, with Harrir, purposing to correct my journals and scien- titic observations before continuing the ascent. X had hardly begun my work when a tall, slender, vigorous American youth of about twenty- three, who was on his way down the mountain, entered and came to- ward me with that breezy self-complacency \rhich is the adolescent s idea of tne well- bred ease of the man of the world. His hair was short and parted accurately in the mid- dle, and he had all the look of an American person who would be likely to b^^io his signature with an initial, and spell his mid- dle name out. He introduced himself, smiling a smirky smile borrowed from the ** Pretty much ' may not be elegant Kngliah, but it is high time it was. There is no elegant word or pbrase which means just what it iiicaus.— M. T. courtier of the stage, extended a fair-skinned talon, and whilst he gripped my hand in ife he b«it his body forward three times at the hips, as the stage-oourier doea, and said in the airiest and most oondesoending and patronising way— 1 quote his exact language. "Very i{laa to make your acquaint- anoe, 'm sure ; very glad indeed, assure yon, I've read all your little efforts and greatly admired them, and when I heard yon were here, I——' I indioated a chair, and he sat down. This grandee was the grandson of an American of considerable note in his day, and not wholly forgotten yet — a man who came so near being a great man that he was quite generally ac- counted one while he lived. I slowly paced the floor, pondering scien- tific problems, mad heard this conversation :-«, Grandson. Ji'irst visit to Europe T A' Harris. Mine? Yes. f^ G. S. (With a soft reminiscent sigh suff* gestive of by-gone joys that may be tasted in their freshness but once.) Ah, I know what it is to you. A first visit I— ah, the romance of it 1 I wish I could feel it again. H. Yes, r find it exceeds all my dreams. It is enchantment. I go G. 8. (With a dainty gesture of the hand signifying, 'Spare me your /'callow enthu* siasms, good friend.') Yes, I know, 1 knoW) ^on go to oathednds, and exclaim ; and jrou drag through league-long picture galleries and exclaim ; and you stand here, and there, and yonder, upon historic ground, and oonti- nue to exolium ; and yon are permeated with your first crude conceptions of art, and are proud and happy. Ab. yes, proud and happy — that expresses ii ICea-yes, enjoy it — it is right — ^it is an innocent reveU H. And you t Don't yon de these things now? G. S. it O, that is very good 1 My dear sir, when you are as old a traveller as I am, you will not ask suoh a question as that. I visit the regulation gallery, moon around the regulation oathedriU, do the worn round of the refl[ulation sights, yet ?— Excuse me 1 H. Well, what do you do, then ? O. S. Do ? I flit— and flit— for I am ever on the wing — but I avoid the herd. To-day I am in Pans, to-morrow in Berlin, anon in Rome ; but you would look for me in vain in the gsileries of the Louvre or the common resorts of the gazers in those other capitals. If you would find me, you must look in the unvisited nooks and corners where others never tliink of going. One day you will find me making myself at home in some obscure peasant's cabin, another day yon will find me in some forgotten castle worshipping some little gem ef art which the careless eve -. i ii ». i ''4«»w»i»- « « w i iiti Miiit ii ) M ii .-. ' % A TRAMP ABROAD. 117 ir<«kiimad hand in ifc met At th* d laid in tding and bUngaage. aoqoaiat* Maure yon, ffurta ana [heard yon awn. This merioan of not wholly near being lerally ac- ring icien- ersation: — bT i sighinfc 'be tasted li, I know I— ah, the il it again, ly dreaouu sf the hand ow enthn- m, 1 know} i; and yon e galleries and there, and oonti* leated with t, and are and happy oy it— it is lese things ;ood ! My kveiler as I on as that, on aroond rorn round Kcaae me 1 r I am ever 1. To-day n, anon in in vain in I ooiiimon 9r capitals, ook in the ere others u will tind le obscure will find orobipping reless eve has overlooked and which the anezperienoed would despise ; again yon will find me a Sest in the inner sanctnaries of palaces while e herd is content to get a harried glimpse of the unnsed oh«»aibers by feeing a servant. H. Yon are a gnest in snob puces T , O. S. And a welcome one. H. It is surprising. How does it come T O. S. My ffrandfather's name is a pass- port to all the oourts in Europe. I have only to utter that name and every door is open to me. I flit from court to court at my own free will and pleasure, and um always welcome. I am as much at home in the palaces of Europe as you are among your relatives. I know every titled person in Europe, I think. I have my pockets full of invitations all the time. I am under promise now, to go to Italy, where I am to be the guest of a sacoession of the noblest houses in the land. In Berlin my life is a continued round of gayety at the imperial palace. It is the same, wherever I go. H. It must be very pleasant. But it must make Boston seem a little slow when yon are at home. O. S. Yes, of oonrse it does. But I don't go home much. There's no life there — ^little to fe«d a man's higher nature. Bos- ton's very narrow, you know. She doesn't know it, ana you couldn't convince her of it — so I say nothing when I'm there : where's the use ? Yes, Boston is very narrow, but ■he has such a good opinion of herself that she can't see it. A man who has travelled as much as I have, and seen as much of the world, sees it plain enough, but he can't cure it, you know ; so the best way is to leave it and seek a sphere which is more in harmony with his tastes and culture. I run across there, once a year, perhaps, when I have no- thing important on hand, but I'm very soon back agau. I spend my time in Europe. H. I see. You map out your plans and O. S. No, ezcnse me. I don't map out any plans. I simply follow the inclination of the day. I am limited b^ no ties, no re- quirements, I am not bound in any way. I am too old a traveller to hamper myself with deliberate purposes. I am simply a traveller — an inveterate traveller— a man of the world, in a word— I can call myself by no other name. I do not say, ' I am going here, or I am going there '—I say nothing at aU, I only act For instance, next week yon may find me the guest of a grandee of Spain, or you may find me oflF for Venice, or fUtting toward Dresden. I shall nrobably go to Egypt presently ; friends will say to friends, ' He is at the Nile cataracts '—and at that very moment they will be surprised to learn that I m away o£F yonder in India somewhere. I am a constant surprise to people. They are always saying, * Yes, he was in Jerusalem when we heard of him last, but goodness knows where he is now.' Presently the Grandson rose to leave- discovered he had an appointment with some Emperor, perhaps. He did his graces over asain : gripped me with one talon, at arm's length, pressed his hat against his stomach with the other, bent hislKidy in the middle three times, murmuring, — 'Pleasure, 'm sure; great pleipure, 'm sure. Wish you much success.' Then he removed his gracious presence. It is a great and solemn thing to have a grandfather. I have not purposed to misrepresent this boy in any way, for what little indignation he excited in me soon passed and left no- thing behind it but compassion. One can* not keep up a grudge against a vacuum. I have tried to repeat the lad's very words ; if I have failed anywhere I have at least not failed to reproduce the marrow and meaninff of what he said. He and the innocent chatterbox whom I met on the Swiss lake are the most unique and interesting speci« mens of Young America I came across dur* ing my foreign tramping. I have made hon* est portraits of them, not caricatures. The Grandson of twenty-three referred to himself five or six times as an ' old traveler,' and as many as three times, (with a serene complaoenoy which was mad- dening) as a 'man of the world. There was something very delicious about his leaving Boston to her " narrowness," unreproved and uniostruoted. I formed the caravan in marching order, presently, and after riding down the 'line to see that it was properly roped together, gave the command to proceed. In a little while the road carried us to open, grassy land. We were above the troublesome forest, now, and had an uninterrupted view, straight before us, of our summit — the summit of the Riffelberg. We followed the mule road, a zigzag course, now to the right, now to the left, but always up, and always crowded and in- commoded by going and coming files of reck- less tourists who were never, in a single instance, tied together. I was obliged to exert the ubmost care and caution, for in many places the road was not two yards wide, and often the lower side of it sloped Away in slanting precipices eight and even nine feet deep. I had to encourage the men constantly, to keep them from giving way t'< I their unmanly fears. ■I ..^**jf.r o getontof ^ ilM • ; PwiB r«r. AAlMtt w ■omtttung Mw • howe- m» day— the it him AW»y. sminiib him. nd merit in ih«y BOk the eritioal Mid i venkar* to apariority in rM o«r strMti die ohoooMt by Miy mui; ka abroad in noonday, A» ilad and in- ailon. bo* by wMTthadrMi •d that thMa Ma a lower The oaaa of rmota that ar- lone an offioer holde the rank adinp bimaelf at with an an- rooiona ttory, amben it well boMi mora or id the wm of hTebeenoffend- "'imprisoaad" not have been aimed with at- id six mnrdera wa» praparing BiMiner m the mamory. Ar- idelioate to be priorities, and oniDparieoaa are alwayi odioni. bat ilUl>- Arkaaaaw woald oartainly liaTa hMgad Baker. I do not uy the would have tried bin lint, bttt iha would have haD|ad htm, anyway. Bvantha moat degraded woman oan walk oar streeta onaMMalad, her tax aod weakneaa beiag bar ■afflownlprotaetioo. 81ie will enooantarMapdUah than aha woold in the old world,bat no will roa aonm enoogh bnmanity to maka ap for it The moirio of a donkey awoka na early in the morning, and we rose np and made ready for a piatty formidable walk— to Italy ; bat -the road was so level that we took the train. We loat agood deal of time by tUs, tmt it was no raattar, wa ware not in a hurry. We were four bourn going to Ohambery. The Swiss trains go upwards of three milee an hour, in ptaoes, but tiiay are quite lafa. That Mea French town of OhMnbery was asquains and orooked as Heilbronn. A drowsy reposeful quiet reigned in the back atreela which made strolling through Ithem very pleaaan^ barring the almost unDsaiabla heat of the sun. In one of theee streets which was dght feet wide, gracefully curved wid built up with small antiquaied houses, I saw three fat hotpi ^ing asleep, and a boy (alao adeap) taUag care of them. From queer old-fashioned windowa along the eurve, projected boxes of|bright flowers, and «ver tbe edge of theee boxea hung the head and sluraildarB of a oat aslsep. The iva deeping oreatnrea were the only living filings vidUa in that street. Theta was not a sound . absolute stillneas pravaUed. It was Sunday ; one is not used to such dreamy Sundays on the continent. In oar part of the town it was difhrent that night. A raiment of brown and battered •oldiwa had arrived home from Algienuaiid I judged thay got tl] sane and driiiik till thirsty on tha way. tniey in dawn, in tha pleasant open air. Wa lalt for Turin at ten tbe next morning bf a raUway whioh waa pcofusdy daoomtsd with tunnels. Wa forgot to takaalaatem along, oonse. qnentlj wa missed all the soenary. Apon- darooB toW'beaded Swiss woman who put on many flne-lady airs, but waa evidently more uaad to wadiing Unen than wearing it, sat in a oomar seat and put bar lags across into the •naodta one, propping them intermediately inSrharup-andedvafise. In the seat thus pirated, eat two Amari nans, greatly in- oommoded by that woman's majestio coffin- dad faei Ooa of them begged her politdy, to remove tham. She opened her widaayea and gave him a stare, but ans- werad nothing, liy and by ha preferred hia request Main, with great reapactfulassa. She said, in gimd Bngflsh. and in a deeply offnded tone, that she had paid her paMage and was not joing to be buiUad out «| her * righta ' by ul'biad ioreignera, even if she waa alone and unpcoteeted. 'But I have my right alao, madaok My tidiat entitlsa om to a seat, Mt you aia oa- onpiying half of ii' Uiiin not talk with you, dr. What right have you to speak tame? I do not knowyon. One would kuow yon camalhMi a laad where there are no oeotlamea. No gentleman wouldtraata laoyasyou have waatadma.* * I oome from a regioo where a lady would hardly give me the same provocation.' * You have insulted m», air I You have intimated that I am not a lady— and I hope I am not one, after the pattern of your coun- try.' *I beg that you will |dve youredl no alarm on that head, madam; but at the same time I must insist— dways respectfully — that you let me have my seat.* Here the fragile laundreee burst into tears and sobs. * I never waa 80 insulted before? Never! never t It ia shameful, it ia brqtal, It is baaob to bully and abuse an unprotcoMd lady who has lost the use of her limbe ana oannot put her feet to the floor without afony ! * 'Good heavens, madam, why dldn^t you say that at flrst t I offer a thousand par- dons. And I offsr thenrt moat sinoerdy. I did not know— 1 ooa^ > not know — that any- thing was- the matt«r. You are moat wd- 0091a to the seat. Mid would have been from the flrst if I had only known. I am truly sorry it all hsfpened, I do assure vou.' But he couldn't get a word of forgiveness out of her. She simply sobbed and snuffled in a subdued but wholly unappeasable way for two long hours, meantime crowding the man more than ever with her andertaker-fumiture and paying no sort of attention to hia frequent and humble little efibrts to do something tor her comfort. Then the train hdted at the Italian line and she hopped up and mardied out of the oar with as firm a leg as an^ washerwoman of all her tribe ! And how sick I was, to see how she had fooled me. Turin is a very fine dty. In tiie of roominess it tranacends anything that ' ever dreamed of bofoN^ I fancy. It dts in the midat of a vaat dead-levd. and one is obliged to imagine that liad may be had for tha aaking^ and no taxea to pay, so lavidily do they use it The atreets are extravagaudy wide, the paved ■quares are prodigious, tha hooasa are huge 4^>?^?feisl «444 A'Tttk^P ABROAD. •'■>, '' wnd handsome, and oompaoted into nniform '< bleoki that itretoh away as straight as an ^' arrow, into the distance. The sidewalks are ^ r boat as wide as oniinai7 European atveets, 'and are covered over with a doable arcade supported on great stone piers or ookimns. One wdks from one end to the other of these sparioas streets, under the shelter all the ^ tiaut, and all his coarse is lined with the Eiettiest of shops and the most inviting din> g-hooses. There is a wide andlensthy coartk glitter* ins with the most wiokedly-entioinK shops^ which is iroofed with glass, hish aloft over head, and paved with soft-toned marbles laid in graoefal figares ; and at night when this place is brilliant with iftM and popnloos with a iiaanterina and ohattmg and langhing mal- titade of pleasare'seekers, it is a spectacle worth seeing. Everything is on a large scale ; the public boildings, for instance— as they are arohitec* turally imposing, too, as well as large. The bix sqaarea have big bronze monaments in them, .^.t the hotel they gave cs rooms that were alarming, for size, and a parloar to match. It was well the weather required no fire in the parlour, for I think one might as well have tried to warm a park. The pUwM would have a warm look, though, in any weather, for the window curtaus were of red silk damask and the walls were covered with same fire-hued goods— so, also, were the four sofas and the brigade of chairs. The furniture, the ornaments, the chande* lien, the carpets, were all new and bright and costly. We did no tneed a parloar at all but they said it belonged to tiie two bed- rooms, and we might use it if we chose. Since it was to co... nothing, we were not averse from usins; it, of course. Turin must snroly read a good deal, for it has moro book stores to the square rod than any other town I know of. And it has its own share of military folk. The Italian officers' uniforms aro very much the most beautiful I have ever seen ; and as a general thing the men in them were as handsome as the clothes. They were not large men, but they hau fine form^ fine features, rich olive complexions aud lustrous black eyes. For several weeks I had been culling all the information I could about Italy, irom tourists. The tourists wero all agreed upon one thing— one must expect to be cheated at every turn by the Italians. I took an even- icig walk in Turin, and presently came across a uttle Punoh and Judy show in one of the great squares. Twelve or fit te«a people con« stitnte an audienoe. This minature theatro was not much bigger than a man's coffin stood on end ; the upper part was open and displayed a tinseled parlour— a goodjriied handkershief would, have answered for m> drop>curtain ; the footlights consisted <^ a. couple of candle-ends an inch long ; various mimikins the size of dolls appeared on the stage and made long speeches at each ot^, gesticulating a good deal, and they generally had a fight bef oro they mt through. They were worked by strings from above, and tiie illusion was not perfect, for one saw not only the strings, but the brawny hand that man- ipulated them— and .the actors and actress- es all talked in the same voice, too. The audience stood in front of the theatro, and seemed to enjoy the performance heartily. When the play was done,, a youth in. his shirt-sleeves started around with a small copper saucer to make a oollection. I did not know how muoh to put in, but thouflht I would be guided by my predecessors. Un- luckily I aaly had two of these and they did not hwip me muoh because they did not put in anything. I had no Itdian money, so I pot in a small Swiss coin worth about ten cents. Theyouth finished his collection-trip and emptied the result on the stage ; he had some very animated talk with the con* oealed manager ; then he came working his way through the little crowd— seeking me* I thousht. I had a mind to dip away, but oondnded I wouldn't ; I would stand my ground ana confront iha villainy, what* ever it was. The youth stood bef oro me and held up that Swiss ooin, sure enough, and said something. I did not understand bim, but I jodsed he was requiring Italian money of me. "nie crowd gatberod dose, to listen. I was irritated, and said, — ^in English, of oourse^- ' I know it's Swiss, but yonH take that or none. I haven't any other. ' He tried to put the coin in my hand, and spoke again. I drow my hand away, and said, — ' No, nr. I know all about yon people. You can't play any of your f raudful tricks on me. If thero is a di|oonnt on that coin, I am sorry, but I am not going to make it good. I notice that some of the audienoe didn't pay yon anything at aU. Ton let them go, without a word, but you come after me because you think me a stranger and will put up with an extoirtion rather than have a^scene. But yon aro mistaken this time— yonll take that Swiss money or none.' The youth stood thero with the coin in his fingers nonplussed, and )3ewildered ; of coarse he had not understood a word. An English'Speaking Italian spoke up, now, and said, - ' Yon aro misunderstanding the boy. fie good-riied er«d for » iiifc«d of »■ ig; Tarioaa MM onfhe aaoh at^, generally .u They y«, and the av not only d that man- and aotreaa- too. The iheatre, and heartily, onth in. hie ih a email ion. I did bat thoajdit eaaon. Un- nd they did r did not pat I money, lo I h about ten olleotion-trip e stage ; he nth the con- working hie >wd— leeking o alip away, wonid itand illainy, what- before me and enongh, and deretand him, Italian money ioM, to listen. Bngliah, of ill take that my hand, and d away, and t yon people. ndfaltriokson that coin, I to make it the audienoe alL Yon let lat yon oome I a stranger and 1 rather than mistaken this iss money or 1 the coin in his Dewildersd ; of a word. An e up, now, and g the boy. fie M A TEAM? ABROAD 1^ t does not mean any harm. He did not sap- poaa yon gave him so mooh money porposely, so he harried back to r*- tarn yon the coin leet yea might , get away before yon disoorered yonr *<^^n*fnVr. Take it, and ^pve him a penny— that will make everythmg smooth J^pdc'' I probably Unshed, then* for there was occasion. Throash the interpreter I begged the boy's pardon, bat I nobly fefasedT to take back the cents. I said I was teens- tomed to iqaandering large sums in that way— -it was the kind of penon I was. Titen I retired to make a note to the effect that in Italy, persons connected with the drama do notoaeat. The episode with the showman reminds me of a dark chapter in my history. * I once robbed an aged and Mind beggar-woman of fcttr dollars— in a chandu It happen<)d in tins way. When I was oat with Vaa Inno- cents Abroad, the ship stopped in the Bos- sian port of Odessa, and I went ashore with othws, to Ttew the town. I got separated f-omthe rest, and wandered abont idene, nn^ late in the afternoon, when 1 entered a Qreek ohnrch to see what it was like. 'When I was ready to lea^e^ I obserred two wrink- led old women standing stiffly apright Mainst the inner wall, near the door, with their brown palms open to receive slms. I contribnted to the nearer one, and passed ont. I had gone fifty yards, perhaps, when it oooarrod to me that I mast remain ashore all night, as I had heard that the ship's bnsi- ness wonld carry her away at 4 o'clock and keep her away nntil morning. It was a little after 4. now. I had come ashore with only two pieces of money, both about the same sise, bnt differing largely in value— «ne was a French gold piece worth four dollars, the other a Turkish coin worth two cents and a halt With a sudden and horrified misgiving, I put my hand in my pocket, now, and, sure enough, I fetched out that Turkish penny I Here was a situation. A hotel would re- quire pay in advance — I must walii: the streets all night, and perhaps be arrested as a suspioious character. There was but one way oat of the difficulty — I flew back to the church, and softly entered. There stood the old woman yet, and in the palm of the nearest one still lay my gold piece. I was gratefuL I crept close, feeling unspeakably mean ; I got my' Turkish penny reaiy, and was eztendiniK a trembling hand to make the nefarious exchange, when I beard a cough behind me. I jumped back as if I had been accased, and stood quaking while a worship- per entered and passed up the aisle. I wab there a year trying to steal that moafy ; tiyit ii^ it seemed • yewr, though pi course it must have been much less. The worshippers went an4 0Mi*e;; there wer* hardly ever three in^ t^e ohnrch MM once, bat tber* was always one mt num. Everv time I tried to commit my orlm«; somebody came in or somebody starts^ otf^ and I was prevented } but at last niy opp(»s tunity came ; for one moment there waa no- body ia the churohbat the tiro beggar- women and me. I whipped the gold meoe out !; We wandered all over the town, enjoying whatever was going on in tito streets. We took one omnibus ride, and as I did - not speak Italian and could not ask the price^ I held out some copper coins to the conductor, and he took two. Then he went aiidgot his tariff-card, and showed me that he had taken only the right sum. So I made a note — Italian conductors do not cheat. Near the Cathedral I saw another instar'W of probity. An old man was peddling dolls and toy fans. Two small American chil. dren bought fus, and one gave the old man a franc and three ' copper coins, and both started away ; but they were called back, and the franc and one of the coppers were restored to them. Hence it is plain i>^,nmMW.> Ml M A TBAifP ABROAD. tlut in Italy, MrtiM eonneotod with lh« 11^ Mul with the omnibu and toy in* Ita do not ohMt lie itocks of goodi In ib» diopf inf not >iVe, seneMlty. In the vMtibale of > ifemed to be a oldthinx it<^ we tuew eight' or ten wooden dummies gronped to* (leth^, clothed in woollen lmaineM*raiti and eaon niit nuirhed with its P*^ 0°* "ut WM miurked 45 fnuioe— nine doalnte. Hani* stepped in end Mid he wanted • Miit like that Nothing eMier: the old merchant drttfged in the dumm^, biUihed him off with a broom, itt«ipjped hmi, and shipped thto olothes to the hotel. Be said be did not keep two saito of the same kind in stock, bat mannfaotiired a second when ^t was needed to re^olctthe the dummy. In another (quarter we found six Italians enipMsd in a violent qnanel. niey d«iced fiwaeiy ab&nt,gestionIating with their heads, their arms, their legs, their whole bodies ; they would rush forward oo< casionally in a sudden access of pikssion and shake their fists in each other's very faces. We lost half an hour there, waiting to help cord np the dead, but they finally embraced each other affectionate- ly, and the tronblo was all over. The epi- sode was intereating, but we could not hare afforded all that time to it if we had known nothing was going to come of it but a reoon* cUiation. Note made — in Italy, people who quarrel cheat the spectator. W6 had another disappointment, after* ward. We approaohe<). a deeply interested crowd, and in the midst of it, found a fellow wildly chattering and eesticulating over a hoi on the around which was oovered with apiece of old blanket. Every little while he would bend down and take hold of the edge of the blanket with the extreme tips of his fingers, as if to show there was no decep- tion-H>hattering away all the while — ^bnt always, just as t was expecting to see a wonderful feat of legerdemain, he would let go the blanket and rise to ex- plain further. However, at Isst he uncovered the box and sot out a spoon with ali^qid in it, and held it fair and frankly around, for people to see that it was all right and he was taking no advantage^his chhtter became more excited than ever. I sapposed he was goiuji to set fire to the liquid and swallow i^ so I wss gradualy wrought up and interested. I got a cent ready in one hand and a florin in the other, intending to give him the former if he sur* vived and the latter if he killed himself— for his loss would be my gain in a liter«ry way, Hud I was willing to pay a fair price for the com ->bnt this impoater ended nis intensely moving performance by simply adding mm* powder to the liquid and polishing the spoon t ThM he held it aloft, and ho oonld not hnr* shown a wilder exultatioa if he had achioT- ed an immortal miraole. The orowd ap* plauded in a gmtiflBd way, and it seemed to me that history sp ea k s ue truth when it says these ohudren of the south are easily entertnin^d. We spent aa impressive hour in the noble oatbedrall, where lonp; ahafto of tinted light were cleaving through the solemn dimness from the lofty windows and falling on a pillar here, a picture there, and a kneel* ing worshipper yonder. The organ was muttering, censers were swinging, oandles were glittering on the distant altar, and robed priesto were filing silently past ttiem ; the soene was one to sweep all frivolous thonghta away imd steep the soul in a holy calm. A trim young Ammcan lady paused a yird or two from me, fixed her eyes on the mellow spalls fieoking the far-off idtar, bent her head reverently a moment, then straighio ened up, kicked her train into the air with her heu, caught it deftly in her hand, and marched briskly out. Weyisited the picture galleries and the other regulation '*sighto" of Milan — not because I wanted to write about them again, but to see if I had learned anything in twelve years. I afterwards visited the great gal- leriee of Rome and Florence for the same purpose. I found I had learned one thing. When I wrote about the Old Masters before^ I said the copies were better than the oritti- naL That was a mistake of large dimensions. The Old Masters were still unpleasing to me, but they were truly divine contrasted with the ooties. The copy is to the original as the pallid, smart, inane new wax-work-group is to the vigorous, earnest, dignified group of living men annd women whom it professes to duplicate. There is a mellow richness, a subdued oolour, in the old pictures^ which is to the eye what muffled an i mellow- ed sound is to the ear. That is the merit which is most loudly praised in the old pic- ture, and is the one which the copy most oouspienously lacks, and which the copyist must not hope to oompaas. It was generally conceded by Oht artiste with whom I talked tLat that subdued splendour, that mellow richness, is imparted to the picture by age. Then why should we worship the Old Mas- ter for it; who did n't impart it, instead of worshipping Old Time, who did t Perhapa the picture was a clanging bell, until Time muffled it and sweetenM it. In conversation tiith an artist in Venioa. I asked t *What is it that people see in the Old co: tb 01 fa« ev ha wJ m^ aol vri wJ IS I OTT? ing lieipooal not h«T« rowd AD* Memedio when il •n MMily ir fa ih« ih»(te of the loleam uid falling id a knool- orgMA OMldlCO alter, and part thorn; il frivolono il in a holy adypanood •yes on tho altar, bont en skraighi' he air with r hand, and ies and the Milan— not them again, Ug in twelve t great gal- for the tame i one thing, atom before^ n the orita- tdimeaBioDS. iasingtome, treated with te original as [•work-groap Dified groi^> whom it is a mellow soldpictnroib an i mellow- 18 the merit I theoldpio* lie copy molt h the oopyist teu generally horn I telked that mellow tare by age. the Old Mai' it, initead of I ! Perhapa 11, nntU Time it in Venice, I le in the Old A TRJiUF ABROAD. s. ...f /.;.: Maiten t I have been in the Dogei' Palace and I law several acres of very bad drawing, very had perspective^ ■ aud very iaoorreot proportions. Paul Vero- nese's dogs do uot resemble dogs ; ail the horses look like bladders on legs ; one man had a right leg on Hm left side of his body ; in the large piotnre where the Em- peror (Barbaroua T) is prostrate before the Pope, there are three men in the foreground who are over thirty feet high, if one may jadge by the size of a kueehng Mttle boy in the centre of the foreground ; and aouording to the same acale, the Pope is 7 feet highland the Doge is a shriveled dwarf of 4 feet.' The artist said : ' Yes, the Old Masters often drnw badly ; they did not care much for truth and exact- ness in minor details ; but after all, in spite of bad drawing, bad perspective, bad propor- tions, and a choice of subjects which no longer appeal to people as strongly as they did three hundred years ago. there is a something about their pictures which ia divine— a something which is above and be- yond the art of any epoch since — a some- thing which would be the despair of artiata but that they never hope or expect to attain it* and therefore do not worry about it.' That is what he said— and he said what he believed ; and not only believed, but. felt. Reasoning- especially reasoning without technical knowledge— must be put aside, in oaaes of this kind. It cannot aasist the in- quirer, it will lead, in the moat logical progression, to what, in the eyes of artiata, would be a most illogical oonolusion. Thus: bad drawing, bad proportion, bad perapec' tive indifference to truthful detail, colour which gete its merit from time, and not from the artist, these things constitute the Old Master ; conclusion, the Old Master was a bad painter, the old Master was not an 01<1 Master at all, but an Old Apprentice. Your friend the artist will grant your premises, but deny your conclusion ; he will maintain that notwithstanding this formidable list of confessed defeottt, there is still a suiuuthiug that is divine and unapproachable about the Old Master, and that there is no urguiug the fact away by any system of reasoning what- ever. I can believe that. There are women who have an indefinable charm in their faces which makes them beautiful to their inti- mates ; but a cold stranger who tried to rea- son the matter out and find this beauty would fail. He would say of one of these women: This chin is too short, this noee is too loiig, tbiy forehead is too hi^h, this hair is too rad, this complexion is too pallid, the perspective of the entire oompo^tion is ir.oor'* reut ; oonolusion, the woman is not bvautifni. But her nearest friend might say, and lay trnly, 'Your preraiaes are right, your logi-> ia fanltle8s,bnt your oonolusion is wrong, nevertheless : she is an old Master- she is beautiful, bus only to such as know her; it is a beaucy whidi cannot be formulated, bat it is there, just the same.' I found more pleasare in contemplating the Old Masters this time than I did whsn I was in Europe in former years, but still it was a calm pleasure ; there was nothing over-heated about it. When I was in Venice before, I think I fonnd no pictoro whioh stirred me much, but this time there were two which enticed me to the Doge's palace day after day, and kept me there hoars at a ti-sii. One or these wai Tintoretto's thrse acie picture in the Qreat Council Chamber. When I saw it twelve years ago I was not strongly attached to it — ^the guide told me it was an insurrection inhMven— but this was an error. Tbe movement of this great work is very il"-- i. 'ere are ten thousand figures, and th- 's aU doiog something. There is • « „ .V .iul 'go' to the whole composition JSome of the figures are diving headlong down* ward, with olasped hands, others are swim> ming through the oloud-shoals,— some on their faces, some on their baoks— great pro* cession of bishops, martyrs and angela are pouring swiftly centrewards from various outlying directions—every where is enthusi- astic joy, there is rushing movement every, where. There are fifteen or twenty figures soattoi'ed here and there, with books, but they cannot keep their attention on their reading — they offer the books to others, but no one wishes to read now. The lion of St. Mark is there with his book } St. Mark ia there with his pen uplifted; he aud the Lion are looking each other earnestly in the fsoe^ disputing about the way to spell a word — the Lion looks up in wn^t admiration while St. Mark spelli. This ia wonderfully interpr. vJ by the artist. It is the master-stroke of this inoom- parable paintincc. I visited the place daily^ and never grow tired of looking at that grand picture. As I have intimated the movement is almost an* imaginably vigorous; the figures are singing, hosannahing, and many are blowing tram* pets. So vividly ia noise suggested, that spectetors who became absorbed in the pio* ture almost always fall to shouting com- ments in each other's ears, making ear* trumpeto of their oorvod hand, fearing they may uot; otherwise be heard. One often sees a tourist, with the eloquent teurs pour* i.M\i.,:'m^'''^im^M ^" lis A TRAMP ABROAD. 1 ! !., ins down hit oheelia, fnnnel hii hands at hia wife'a ear, and hears him roar thrnnah them * 0, TO BE THBRB AND AT REST i' Men* but the snpremelj great in the art eanprodooe effects like theM with the tilent bradi. Twelve years ago I ooald not hmy ap- preoiated this pietnre. One year ago I oonld not have appreoiated it. My stndv of Art in Heidelbnrg has been n nol beednoation to mo. All that I am to- day in Art, I owe to that. The other great work whiob fasoioated me was Baasano's immortal Hair Trunk. — This is in the Chamber of the Conn* Connoil of ** Ten. It is in one of the three* foot piotures which decorate the walls of Uie room. The composition of this picture is be- yond praise. Tne Hair Trunk is not hurled at the stranger's head — so to speak— as the chief feature of an immortal work so often is: no, it is carefully guarded from prominence, it is subordinated, it ii restrained, .it is most deftly and cleverly held in reserve, itb most cautiously and ingeniously led up to, by the master, and cooseqneatly when the speo* tator reaches it at last, he is taken unawares, he is unpreparod, and it bursts upon him with » stupefying snrpriae. One is lost in wonder at all the thought and care which this elafiorate planning must have cost. A general glance at tbe piotnre could never suggest (that there was a hair trunk in it ; the Hair Trunk is not mention- ed in thd title even — ^whioh is, " Pope Alex- ander III and the Doge Ziani,tthe Conqueror of the Kmperor Frederick Barbarossa ;' yon 8€«i, the title is actually utilized to hel. di> vert attention from the Trunk ; thus, as I s»y,||nothiDg suggests the presence of the Trunk, )by any hint, yet everything studied- ly leads up Co it, step by step. Let us ex- amine into this, and obserye the exquiutoly artlessuesB of the plan. At the extreme left end of the picture are a couple uf v^omen, one of them with a child l<»oking over her shoulder at a wounded man sitting with bandaged head on the grotiud. 'i'hese people seem needless, but no, they are there for a purpose ; one cannot look at them without seeing the gorgeous procession of grandees, bishops, halberdiers, and banner- bearers which is passing along behind them ; one cannot see the procession without feel- ing a curiosity to follow it and learn whither it is going ; it leads him to the Pope, in the centre of the picture, who is talking with the bonnetlessDoge — talking tranqniliy, too, although within 12 feet of them a man is beating a drum, and not far from the drummer two persons are blowing horns, and many horsemen are plunging and rioting about—indeed, 22 feet of this great work is all a deep and happy holiday serenity and Sunday Sihocl processiOD, and then we oomn suddenly ufkon 11^ feet of tarmoiland racket and insubordination. This latter state of things is not an aoeideDt, it has its pnrpoM. But for it, one would linger upon the rope and the Doge, thinking them to be the motive and supreme ^aature of the picture ; whereas one is draw long, almost nneonsoi- onsly, to see what the trouble is about. Now at tile very end of this riot, within 4 feet of the end of the picture, and f uL 86 f«et from the beginning of it, the Hair Trunk bursts with an electrifying suddenness upon the spectator, in all its matchless perfection, and the great master's triumph is sweeping and complete. From that moment no other thing in those forty feet of canvas has any charm ; one seed the Hair Trunk, and the HMr Trunk only— and to see it is to worship it. Bassano even placed objects in the immediate vicin- ity of the Supreme Feature whose pretended purpose was to divert attention from it yet m little longer and thus delay and augment the surprise ; for instance, to the right of it he has i>laced a stooping man with a cap so red that it is sure to hold the eye for a moment — ^to the left of it, some 6 feet away, he has placed a red-coated man on an inflated horse,^ and that coat plucks your eye to that locally the next moment — then, between the Trunk and the red horse-man he has intruded » man, naked to his waist, who is canying » fancy flour sack on the midd!*- of his back instead of on his shoulder— this admirable feat interests you, of course — keeps you at bay a little longer, like a sock, or a jacket thrown to the pursuing wolf — but at last, in spite of all distractions and detentions, the. eye of even the most dull and heedless spec* tator is sure to fall upon the World's Master^ piece, and in that moment he totters to his chair or leans upon his guide for support. Descriptions of such a work as this must necessarily be imperfect, yot they are of value. The top of the trunk is arched ; the arch is a perfect half circle, in the Roman style of architecture, for in the then rapid decadence of Oreak art, the rising iuflueacs of Rome was ulready iMgining to be felt in the art of the Republic The Trunk is bound or bordered with leather all around where the lid joins the main body. Many critics consider this leather too cold in tone ; but I consider this its highest merit, since it was evidently made so to emphasise by contrast the impaiMioned fervour of the habp. The high lights in this part of the work are cleverly managed, tae motif is admirably subordinat- ed to the ground tints, and the technique is- very fine. The brass nail-heads are in the: 4t if« ■*•' T J— Ai at work ia reiiity Mid ntie«oma hud rM)k«t r ■tote of wparpoM. B the Pope !0 be tbe te pieiare { t nueoiMci* bout. Now in 4 feet of 6 feet from tink banto upon the !eotion, end reeping end other thing koy oherm ; a»ir Trunk it. Bmbauo idiete vioin- e pretebded rom it yet m kugment the ght of it he ecepiored >r • moment way, he has flated horae^ bhat looalitv 1 the Trunk intruded » la carrying » of his baok admirable eepa you at or a jacket t at laat, ia entiona, the.- bedleia tpeo* Id's Master- ottera to hia anpport. m thia must they are of arched j the theBomau then rapid tg iuflueaoe bo be felt in ink is bound •ound where Many oritioa tone ; but I siuoe it waa by oontraat bp. The high are cleverly f Bubordinat* techn-ique ia' is are iu the-. JL XXlAaur AJiMJAli, 149 pureat atyla of the early renaiaaanoe. The strokes, here, are very firm and bold— every nail-head ia a portrait. The handle on the end of thi Trunk haa e> idently been re* teuohed— I think, with a piece of chalk — but one can atill aee the inapiration of the Old Maater in the tranquil, almost too tran- quil, hang of it. The hair of thia Trunk is realhair—ao to apeak— white in patohea, brown in patohea. The detaila are finely worked out ; the repose proper to hair in a Nonmbent and ibaotive attitude ia charm* ingly ezpreaaed. There i« a feeling about tma pait of the work which lifta ic to the highest altitudes of art ; the sense of sordid rcaliam vanishes away — one recognizes that there ia aoul hers. View thia trunk aa you will, it ia a gem, it is a marvel, it ia a miracle. Some of the effects a»e very daring, approaching even to the boldest flighta of the rococo, the airocco, and the Byzantine aohools— yet the master's hand never falters — itmoveaon, calm, majestic, confident — and with that art which conceals art, ic finally costs over the tout ensemble, by mysterious •nethods of its own, a subtle something which refines, subdues, ethereali- sea the aird sompononta and enduea them with the deep charm and gracioua witchery «l poeay. Among the art treasures of Europe there are picturea which approach the Hair Trunk — there are two which may be aaid to equi- it; possibly — but there are none that sur- paaaes it So ^rfeot ia the Hair Trunk that it moves even persons who ordinarily have no feeling for art. When an Eriebafigaro master saw it two years ago, he could hardly keep from checking it ; and once when a ouatoma inspector was brought into its pre- sence, he gazed upon it in silent rapture for some moments-, then slowly andunconBcions- ly placed on«> hand behind him with the palm uttermost, and got out his chalk with the othev. These facts speak for themselves. »ifCi (U8<» ^CHAPTER XLIX. One lingers about the Cathedral a good deal, in Venice. There is a strong fascina- tion about it— partly because it is so old, and partly because it is so ugly. Too many of the world's famous buildings fail of one chief virtue— harmony ; they aie made up of a methodlesB mixture of tjne ugly and the beautiful ; this is bad ; it is confusing, it is unrestful. One has a sense of uneasiness, of distress, without knowing why. But one is calm before St. Mark, one is calm within it, one would be calm on top of it, oalm in the cellar; for its details uo masterfully ugly, no misplaced and imperti* nent beanties an intradsd MiTwhara t an«!l wli«« oonaequant raaoltia a grand harmoviona whole, of aoothing, •ntranouig, tranquilicmg, aoul-aatiafying ugUneaa. One'a admiration of a perfect thing always gvowa, never de* dinea ; and thia ia the aureat evidence to him that it ia perfect St. Mark ia perlaot. To me it aoon grew to be ao nobly, ao auguatly ugly, tMt it waa difficult toatoy away from it, even for a little while. Every time ita aquat domea diaappeared from my view, I had a deapondeiit feeling ; whenever they raappeared, I f'llt an honeat rapture— I have not known ary happier houra than thoae I daily apent in front of Fiorian's, looking across the Great Square at it. Propped on its long row of low thick-legged columns, ita back knobbed with domea, it seemed like a vast warty bug taking a medi- tative walk. St. Mark ia not the oldeat building in the world, of oourae, but it aeema the oldest, and looks the oldest — especially inside. When the ancient mosaica m its walla be* come damaged, they are repaired but not altered ; the grotesque old pattern ia pre- served. Antiquity has a charm of ita own, and to smarten it up would only damage it. One day I was sitti/tg on a red marble bench in the vestibule lookins up at an^ ancient piece ok apprentio^wonc, la mosaic, illus- trative of the command to ' multiply and repleniah the earth.' The Cathedral itaell had aeemed very old ; but thia picture waa illustrating a period in history which made the building seem young by oompariaon. But I presently found an antique wUch waa older t'ian either the battered Cathedral or the date assigned to that piece of history ; it was a spiral-shaped fossil as large as the crown of a hat ; it was embedded in the marble bench, and had been sat upon by tourists until it was worn smooth. Con° trasted with the inconceivable antiquity of this modest fossil, those other things were flippantly modern — ^jejune — mere matters of day -bef ore-yesterday. The sense of the oldness of the Cathedral vanished away under the influence of thia truly venerable preaence. St. Mark's is monumental; it ia an im- perishable remembrancer of the profound and simple piety of the Middle Ages. Who- ever could ravish a column from a pagan temple did it and contributed his swag to this Chtistian one. So this fane is upheld by several hundred acquisitions procured in that ;)eculiar way. In'our day it would be immoral to go on the highway tu get bricks for a charoh, but it was no sin in the old times. St. Mark's was itself the victim of a curious robbery, once. The thing is sot ,50 A TP«.MP ABROAD. i dcwn in the history of Vamioe, but it mighv be •mvi^\9A into the An^biui IVighti Mid not «e«m ont of pUoe thera. Newly fonr hnndted and fifty yean ego, a Oandian named Stammaio. in the mite of a prinoe of the houie of^ Eite, wai al- lowed to view the rioUea of St Mark. Hi* linfnl eye wav daazled, and he hid himself behind au altar, with an evil purpose in his heart, but a priest discovered him and turned him out Afterward he got in again — ^by false kvyn, this time. He went there, night after night, and worked hard and jwtiently, all alone, overcoming difficulty after difficulty with his toil, and at last she- oeeded in removing a great block of the marble paneling which walled the lower part of the treasury ; this block he fixed so that he oould take It out and put it in at will. After tiiat, for weeks, he spent all his mid- nights in his majpificent mine, inspecting it in security, gloating over its marvels at his leisure, and always slipping back to his ob- scure lodgings before oawn, with a duke's ransom under his cloak. He did not need to grab, haphazard, and run — ^there was no hurry. Be could make deliberate and well- considered selections ; he could consult his esthetic tastes. One comprehends how un- dist irbed he was, and how safe from any dan ter of interruption, when it is stated thr.- he even carried off a unicorn's horn — a men. curiosity — which would not pass thron((h the egress entire, but had to be sawn iu two— a bit of work which cost him hours of tedious labour. He continued to store up his treasure at home until his occupation lost the charm of novelty and became monoton- ous; then he ceased from it, contented. WeU he might be ; for his oollection, raised to modem values, represented nearly 950.000,000. He could iiave gone home the richest citi- zen of his country, and it might have been years before the plunder was missed ; but be WAS human — he could not eqjoy his delight alone, he must have somebody to talk about it with. So he exacted a solemn oath from a Candian noble named Crioni, then led him to his lod^iDgs and nearly took his breath awav with a sight of his |(littering hoard. He detected a look in his fnend'sfrMC which excited his suspicion, and was about to slip a stiletto into him when Crioni saved himself by explaining that that look vas onl^ an ex- pression of supreme and happy astonishment. Stammato made Crioni a present of one of the State's principal jewels — a hu^e car- buncle, which afterward figured m the Dacal cap of State— and the pair parted. Crioni went at once to the palace, denounced the criminal, and handed over, the carbuncle as evidence. Stsmmatn was arrested, tried' and condemned, with the old-time Venetian promptness. He was hanged between the two great columns in the Piazza— witk a gilded rope, out of compliment to his love of gold, perhaps. He got no good of his booty at all— it was all recovered. In Venice we had a luxury which very sel- dom fell to our lot on the continent — a nome dinner, with a private family. If one oould always stop with private families, when tra- vellins, Europe would have a charm which it now UKsks. As it is, one must live in the hotels, of course, and that is a sorrowful business. A man accustomed to American food and American domestic cookery would not starve to death suddenly in Europe ; but I think he would gradually waste away, and eventually die. He would have to do without his accus- tomed morning meaL That is too formidable a change altogether ; he would necessarily suf- fer from it He could get the shadow, the sham, the base counterfeit of that meal : but that would do him no good, and money oould not buy the reality. To particularize : the average American's simptlest and commonest form d breakfast consists of coffee and beefsteak; well, in Europe, coffee is an unknown beverage. You can get what the European hotel keeper thinks is coffee, but it resembles the real thing as hypocrisy resembles holiness. It is a feeble, characterless, uninspiring sort of stuff, and almost as undrinkable as if it had been made in an American hotel. The milk used for what the French call ^ ChristiMi ' milk — ^milk which has been baptized. After » few months' acquaintance with European 'coffee,' one's mind weakens, and his faith with it, and he begins to wonder if the rich beverage of home, with its clotted layer of yellow cream on top of it is not a dream after all, and a thing which never ex- isted. Next comes the European bread— fair enough, sood enough, after a fashion, but cold ; cold and tough, and unsympathetio ; and never any change, never any variety — always the same tiresome thing. Next, the butter— the sham and tasteless butter ; nu salt in it, and made of goodness knows what Then there is a beefsteak. They have it in Europe, but they don't know how to cook it ; Neither will they cut it right. It comes on the table in a smaU, round, pewter plat- ter. It lies in the centre of this platter, in a bordering bed of grease-soaked potatoes ; it is the size, shape and thickness of a man's hand with the thumb and fingers cut off. It 'imBm^m'M t«d, tried' I T«Deti«n kwMD the a — with. » his loT* of hia booty hTory m1- t — anOme one oonld . when tra- in wUoh it live in the aorrowfnl [> Amerioau lery wonld nrope; bnt away, and hiaaoons* formidable laaarily nif • ihadow, the b meal : bat noney oonld American's if breakfast f; well, in beverage, hotel keeper [es tiie real iineas. It is ring sort of I as if it had L The milk ^ Christian ' itized. atance with reakens, and to wonder if 1 its clotted )f it is not a ich never ex* bread— fair , fashion, bat lympathetio ; ny variety — ind tasteless I of goodness They have it > how to oook it. It comes pewter plat* us platter, in Bd potatoes; MS of a man's re cat off. It A TRAMP ABROAD. m is a little overdone, is rather dry, it tastes insipidljr, it Tonres no enthu»iMm. Imagine a poor ezUe oontemplatinft that inert thioB; and imagine an angel saddenly sweeping down ont of a better land and set- ting nefore him a mighty porter-hoaie steak an inch and a half thick, hot and spattering flrom the griddle ; dasted with fragrant pep- Eer; enriched with little melting bits of ntter of the most nnimpeaohable freshness and gennineness i the precious juices of the meat trickling out and joining the gravy, ar- obipelagoed with mashrooms ; a township or two of tender, yellowish fat Kracing an out* lying district of this ample ooauty of beef* steak ; the long white bone which divides the sirloin from the tenderloin still in its place ; «ad imagine that the aogtl also ad^^j a great cup of American home-made coffee, with the cream a-f roth on top, some real bat* ter, firm and yellow uid fresh, some smoking hot biscuits, a plate of hot baokwheat cakes, with transparent 8yrup--coald words de- scribe the gratitude of this exile T The European dinner is better than the European breakf^t, but it has its fnalts and inferiorities,— it does not satisfy. Hh oomes to the table eager and hungry ; he swallows his soup — there is an undeKnable lack about it somewhere ; thinks the fish is going to be the thing he wants — eats it and isn't sure ; thinks the next dish is perhaps the one that will hit the hungry place — tries it, and is conscious that there was a something want- ing about it, alsa And thus he goes on, from dish to dish, like a boy after a butter* fly which just misses getting caught every time, it alights, but somehow, doesn't asfit caught after all ; and at the end the exile and the ooy have fared about alike : the one is full but grievously unsatisfied, the other has had plenty of exercise, plenty of interest, and a fine lot of hopes, bnt he hasn't got any butterfly. There is here and there an American who will say k<) csn re* member rising from a European table c'l' ") Krfectly satisfied ; bat we must not ('. > >k the fact that there is also here and there an American who will lie. The number of dishes is sn£Soieat ; but then it is such a monotonous variety oi un- striLing dishes. It is an inane dead leyel of *ftur-to*middling.' There is nothing to ao* oent it Perhaps if the roast of mutton or of bee^ — a big generous one — , were brought on the table and carved in full view of the oUent, that miaiht give the right sense of earnestness and reality to the thing; but they don't do that, they pass the sliced meat around on a dish, and so jrou are per* fectly calm, it does not stir yon in the least, lHow a vast roast turkey, stretched on the broad of his baok, wit. Hot egg-bread, Southern atyle. *s Hot light-bread. Southern atyle, jT. Buttermilk. loed aweet milk. h) ; Apple dumplinga. with real oreanu t^ Apple pie. Apple irittera. i Apple pnflEa, Southern atyle. <>i Peach cobbler, Sor.«hern atyle. Peach pie. Am&rioan minoe pi^ Pumpkin i>ie. Squaahpie. All aorta of American paatry. Freah American fruita of ail aorta, inclnd* ing atrawbernes which are not to be doled out aa if lAief were jewelry, but in a more liberal way. Joe- water — not prepared in the ineffectual itoblet, but in the aincere and capable re> frigerator. Ameticana intending to spend a year or ao in European hotels, will do well to copy thia bill and carry it along. 'They will find it an ezcelleut thing to get up an appetite with, in the diapiriting pxeaenoe oz the aqualid table d'hou . Foreiguera cannot enjoy our food, 1 aup* poae, any more than we can enjoy theira. It u not atrange % for taataa are made not bora. I might gtorif y mj bill of fare until I waa tirud; but altar all, the Sootohman would abake Ua hard and aioy, ' Whare'a your hag* gia V and tk » Fijian .vonld aigb and aaj, * Wl 4reV y* nr miariom^ry T' I have a neat talent in matter pertaining to nouriahmant Thia haa m«t wiUi po* feaaional raoognition. I hav# >ften fnrniah- ed recipea for cook*booka. .Jere areaome deaigna (or pica and thinga, nhioh I raoantiy prepared for a friend'a projected cook-book, but aa I forgot to furoiah diagrama and perapaotivea, they had to be kf t oatt of oonrae : BIOXPB rOB ▲» ABE OAXB, Take a lot of water and add it tQ » lol of coarae Indian meal and about a quarter of a lot of aa)t. Mix well together, knead into the form of a 'pone,' and let the pone atand a while— not on ita edge, but the other way. Bake away a place among the embera. lay it there, and oover it an inch deep with hot ashea. When it ia done, remove it ; blow off all the aal^ea but one layer ; butter that one and eat. N. B. No houaehold ahonld ever be with- out thia talisman. It haa been noticed that trampa never return for another aah-caka^ BSOIFE yOB MBW BNOI^ND FIB. To make thia excellent breakfaat v^ijh, proceed aa followa : Take a nnffioienoy of water and a auffioiency ' of flour, and oon« atruct a bullet-proof doueh. Work thia in* to the form of a diao, wiui the edgea turned up aoma three-fonrtha of az. uiuh. Toughen and kiln-dry it a couple of daya in a mild but unvarying temperature. Construct a oover for thia redoubt in the aame way and of the aame material Fill with atewed dried applea ; aggravate with dovea, lemon peal and alaba ol citron ; add two portiona ofNetv Orleana augar, then aolder on the lid and act in a aafe place till it petrifiea. Serve cold at breakfast and invite your enemy. ■ SM it BBOIFB rOB OBBUAN COBFBB. 1':v-- Take a barrel of water and bring it to a boil ; rub a chiooory berry againat a coffee berry, then convey the former into the water. Continue the boiling and evaporation until the intenaity of the flavor And aroma of the coffee and chiooory haa been diminiifhed to a proper degree ; then aet aside to oooL Now unharness the remaina of a once cow from the plow, inaert them in a hydraulic press, ana then you shall have acquired a teaspconful of tbjkc pale blue juice which a inim^- antil I WM iMi would • yonr hag* I aadttj, ptrUintng with pro* ien f oraiah- • M«iome b I rMtntly oook'book, jMU and eft oatt of «r Id it tp • lot of qiurtsrof » IcnMtd into ponoatMid B othor way. nbarif Uy it Bop with not ve it ; blow batter that BTerbe with> noticed that Mh'oake^ DPIB. eakfaet v?ijh, inffioienoy of r, and oon« ^orkthia in> Bdges turned ih. Toaghen tyi in a mild Consbmot a ftme way and with atewed alovei, lemon two portions older on the i it petrifiei. invite your ffrai. " bring it to a (ainata ooffee ato the water, [toration until aroma of the diminiifhed to Bide to oooL of a once oow a a hydraulic 'e acquired a juice which a A TBAMP ABROAD. *ftia„ German^ Buperptitiop regarda aa milk, modify thif mflujAlty of ite strength in a buo'-«it of tenid water and ring up the breakfaat. Mix the beverage in a cold cup, partake with moderation, and keep a wet rag around your head to guard atsainst over-ezoitement. TO OASYB ZOVIM IN THB ORRlfAIT FASHION. Use a club, and avoid the joints. CHAPTER L. . t wonder why some things are T For in* stance, art is allowed as much indecent li* oense to*day as in earlier times — but the pri* vilegea of utisratare in this respect have been sharply entailed within the past eighty or ninety yearc Fielding and SmoUet could Krtray tha beastliness of their day in the sstliest language ; we have plenty of foul subjeots to deal witii in our day, but we are not allowed to approach them very near, even with nice and guarded forms of speech. But not so with art The brush may still deal freely with auy subject, however revolt* ing'and indelicate. It makes a body ooze aar* «!ism at every pore, to go about Rome and Florence 'and see what this last generatiou has been doing with the statues. These works, which had stood in innocent naked* ness for ages, ure a'l fig.leaved now. Yes, every one of them. Nobody noticed their nakedness before, perhaps ; nobody can help noticing it now, the flg*leaf makes it so con- spicuous. But the comical thing about it all, is, that the fig*leaf is oonfiuMl to cold and pallid marble, which would be still cold and nnsuggestive witboutthis sham and unosten- tatious symbol of modesty, whereas warm* blooded paintings which do really need it ;.have in no case been furnished with it. <- At the door of the Ufizzi, in Florence, o=« is oonfronted by statues of a man and a woman, noseless, battered, black with aocu* mulated grime— they hardly suggest human beings— yet these ridiculous creatures have been thoaghtfnllyl and conscientiously. Hg* leaved by &is fastidious generation. You enter, and proceed to that most- visited little giUlery that exists in the world— the Tri- une—and there, against the wall, without obstructing rag or leaf, you may look your fill upon the foulest, the vilest, the ob- scenest picture the world possesses — Titian's Venus. It isn't that she is naked and stretched out on a bed — no, it is the attitude of one of her arms and hand. If I ventured to describe that attitude, there would be a fine howl— but there the Venus lies, for any- body to gloat over that wants to — and there •he has a right to lie, for she is a work of art, ahd art has Ms privilsgsSk I saw young girls stealing furtive g'anoes at her ; I saw younK nen gaae long and absorbedly at hsr ; I saw agei^ infirm men hang npon her oharms with a pathetic interesl How I uottld likn to dssoribs her— just to see what aholT indignation I could stir np in the world— just to hear the unreflecting averSge man deliver Unisslf about mygrossnea^ and ooarseness, and all that. The wIaoe but a public art gallery. Titian has two Venuses in the Tribune { persons who have seen them will easily remember which one I am refer- ring to. In every gallery in Bkirope there are hide* ous pictures of blood, carnage, oozing brains, putrefaction— pictures y>t.. craying intolerable suffering — ^pictures alive with every oonoeiva* horror, wrought out in dreadful detail — and similar pictures are being put on the canvas every day and publicly exhibited — without a growl from anybody— for they are innocent, they are inoffensive, being works of art But suppose a literary artist ventured to go into a pains*t«king and elaborate description of one of these grisly things— the critics would skin him alive. Well, let it go, it cannot be helped; Art retains her privileges. Litera- ture has lost her?. Somebody else may cipher out the whys and the wherefores and the consistencies of it — I haven't got time. Titian's Venus defiles and disgraces the Tribune, there is no softenins; that fact, but his 'Moses' glorifies it. The simple tamth* fulness of this noble work wins the heart and the applause of every visitor, be he learned or ignorant. After wearying oneself with the acres of stuffy, sappy, expression- less babies that populate the canvases of the Old Masters in Italy, it is refreehine to stand before this peerless child and feel that thrill which tells you you are at last in the presence of the retu thing. This is a human child, this is genuine. You have seen him a thousand times — you have seen him just as m I |M A TBAMP ABBOAD. b« !■ hflN-Huul yon ooolMi^ withoni <«>w*«, that Tilba WM » MMtor. Th« doU*fMM of oUmt paiatad babM auqr BMaa ob« thin«. thqr BMy ib«ui anoikar, mil witk tha 'If oaar IIm oaaa iadiffaraQt. !%• moat famiaa of^ ilia art aritioa haa aaid, ' Thai* ia ao room for donbtt haro-plaialy ttda eUld k in «roabla.' I oonaidar that tha * Moaaa ' haa no aqnal among tha works of «ha Old Maatan, azoapt it be tha divina flair Tmok of fiamano. I faal anra that if aU tha othar Old Maatara ware loit and only thoaa two preaanrad, tha world woald be the gainarby it. My tola parpoaa in iioing to Floranoa waa to aaa thia immortal * Moaaa,' and by good tortona I waa joat in time, for they were tlready preparing to remove it to a more pri* , rate Mid better protected plaoa, beoaw e a . faabion of robbing the great galleriea waa , prevailiDg in Europe at the timec We took a tarn to Pome and aome other Italian dties — then to Munich, andthenoe to Faria— partly for ezeroiae, bat mainlv be- oanae theae things were in oar projeoted pro* gramme, and it waa only right umt we ahonld befaithfaltoit. From Paria I branehed oat and walked throogh HoUaod and Belgium, proouriog an oooaaional lift bv rail or canal when tired, ■ and I had a tolerably good time of it Vby and large. ' I worked Spain and other regiona to aave time aod shoe leather. We croued to England, and then made the homeward paasage in the Canarder, Oallia, a very fine ship. I waa glad to get home — immeasurably glad ; ao glad, in fact that it did not seem possible that anything oonid ever get me out of the country again. I had not enjoyed a pleasure abroad which aeemed to me to compare with the pleaanre I felt in seeing New York harbour again. Europe has many advantages which we have not, but they do not compensate for a good many still more valuable ones which exist nowhere but in our own country. Then we are such a homeless lot when we are over there ) So are Europeans themselves, for that matter. They five in dark and chilly vaat tombs — costly enough, may be, but without conveniences. To be condemned to live as the average European family lives would make life a pretty heavy burden to the average American family. On the whole I think that shorfc visits to Europe are better for us than long onea. The former preserve us from becoming European- ized ; they keep our pride of country intact, and at the aame time the} intensify our affection for our country and our people ; whereat! long visits have the effect of dolling those feelings — at leaat in the majority <» X think that one who mlzea macb with Amarioaaa long resident abroad m«st aniva al ttda oonelastoa. nn Binii APP1ENDIX A.— THE POBTIBR. Omar Khayam, the poet-prophet of Persia, writing mot* than eight hundred yeara ago^ has said : ' In the four parta of tha earth are many that are able to write kamed books, many that are aUa to lead armies^ and many alao that are able to goven kingdona and em* pirea; bot law there be that can heap hotel.' *^ A word about the Enropean hotel portier. He ia a moat admirable invention, a moat valuable oonvenienoe. He alwaya weara a oonapioaona uniform; he can alwaya be fonnd when ha is wanted, for he etioka olosely to hia poet at the front door ; ha is as polite as a duke ; he speaka from four to ten I'^nguagea ; he is your surest help and refuge in time of trouble or perplexity. He is not the olerk, he ia not tae landlcrd ; he ranka above the olerk, and reproeenta the landlord, who is seldom aeen. iilnstead of going to the olerk for information, aa we do at home, you go to the portier. It ia the pride of our average hotel olerk to know nothing whatever; it ia the pride of tiie portier to know everything. You aak the portier at what honra the traina leave— he telle yon inatantly ; or yon aak him who ia the Mat physician in town; or what is the hack tariff; or how many ohildren the Mayor has ; or what da^a the galietiea are open, and whether a permit is required, and where you are to get it, and what yon most pay for it ; or when the theatre open and cloae, what the playa are to be^ and the price of seats ; or what is the newest thing in bate ; or how the bills of mortality aver* age ; or * who struck Billy Patteraon.' It does not matter what you ask him ; in nine caaea out of ten he knows, and in the tenth oaae he will find ont for you before yon can turn around three times. There is nothine he will not put his hand to. Snppoaa you tdl him you wish to go from Hamburg to Pekin by the way of Jericho, and are ignorant of routee and prices— the next morning he will hand von a piece of paper with the whole thing worked out on it to the laat detaiL Before yon have been long on European soil, yon find yonrself maob raadmnat iht IV: i 4 IXR, kofPtnU, ywursAgo, iM« BUMiy toks, mttny niMiy Alio |a MdMn* kt a hotel so thoroughly well during a number of yean aa to give it a great nputatiou, ho has his reward. He can live proeperouvly on that reputation. He can let bis hitlel run down to the last degree of shabbiness and yet have it full of people all the time. For instance, there is the Hotel de Ville, in Milan. It swarms with mioe and fleaa, and if the rest of the world were destroyed it could furnish dirt enongh to start another one with. The" food would create an insurrection in a poor-house ; uid yaft it you gr oatalda to get your maala tha* holal Bukea up ite lose Dy over'oharg* lug yM on all aorte of trifles— and without making any dooiala or exousea about it, either. But tha Hotel de Ville's old excel, lent npntetion still keeps ite dnary rooma crowded with travellan who would Of else- where if they had only had some wis* fiiaod to warn them. B HEIDELBERG 0A8TL& Haidalberg Oaatlo mnal have been Twy beautifnl before tha French battered and bruised and Bcorohed it two hundred yean agOk Tha ateneis brown, with a pinkish tint, and doea not seem to stain easily. The dainty and elaborate ornamentotion upon ite two chief fronto ia aa delicately carved aa if it had been intended for the interior of a drawing-room rather than for the outaide of a honse. Many fruit and flower-oluster, human heada and grim projecting lion's heads are still aa perfect in every detail aa if they were new. But the atetuea which are ranked between the windows have sufferad. Theee ara life-size stetuea of old-time emper- ors, eleoton, and simiUr grandees, clad in mail and bearing ponderous swords. Some have loat an arm, some a head, and one poor fellow ia chopped off at the middle. There ia a saying that it a stranger will paaa over the draw- bridge and walk across the court front without saying anything, he can make a wish and it will be fulfilled. But they say that the truth of thia thing haa never had n chance to be proved, for the reason that be' fore any stranger can walk from the draw- bridge to the appointed place, the beauty of the palace front will extort an exclamation of deligut from him. A rum must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It steods upon a command- ing elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is uo level ground about it, but on the contrary there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shin- ing leaves into profound chasms and abysses whero twilight reigns and the sun cannot in- trude. Nature knows how to garnish a ruin to get the best effect. Oue of these old towers is sliped down themiddle.aiidonehalf has tumbled aside. It tumbled in such a way as to esteblish itself in a picturesque attitude. Then all it laaked waa a fittmg drapery, and Nature bus furnished that; she has robbed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure, and made it a charm to the eye. Toe standing half exposes its arched and oavenioua rooma to you, like open, tooth- less mouths; there, loo, the vines and iTW-oharg* kJ withoal About il, old axool* )*ry rooms Id b9 oil*. iriMfriuid boon Ttry stored and drodyMura • pinkUti Mily. The on upOD its ]»rv«d M if iterior of • I outside of ver-olostcr, iting lion's detail ss if whioh are e saffered. timeemper* ees, olsidin rdfl. Some ad one poor He. There 1 pass over IS the ooart e can make lat they say lever had a sou that be- ll the draw- e beauty of Bxclamaiioii lated, to be have been i command- reen woods, , but on the trraces upon rough ahin- and abysues ,n .cannot in- liruiaharniu >f these old , and one half )d in suoha picturesque was a fittwg ed that ; ahe I fluvters and I to the eye. arched and open, tooth- ) vines and "A TRAMP ABROAD. If? flowers have done their work of grace. The NMr portion of the tower has not been neg- lected, either, but is clothed with the ding. lag garment of polished ivy which hides the wovnds and stains of time. Bven the ^op is not left bare, bnt is crowned with a flonrMh* lag grovp of trees and shrubs. Misfortnne hM done for this old tower what it has done fbr the human ohMsoter sometimes — imnrov- •dil Amntleman remarked, one day, that it might have been fine to live in the oaatle in the days of its prime, but that we had one advantage which its vanished inhiU»itants laokad — the advantage of having a charming rain to visit and muse over. But that was a hasty idea. Those people had the advan- tage of us. They had the fine castle to live in, and they oonld cross the Rhine valley and muse over the stately ruin of Trifels. People, in their day, five hundred years a^o. oonld go and muse over majestic rums wUoh nave vanished now to the last stone. There have alwavs been rains, no doubt ; and there have always been pensive people to sigh over them, and asses to scratch upon them their names and the important date of their visit. Within a hundred years after Adam left Eden, the guide probably gave the usual seneral flouriali with hia band and said : ' Place where the animals were nam- ed, ladies and gentlemen ; place where the tree of the forbiilden fruit stood ; exact spot where Adam and Eve first met ; and here, ladies and gentlemen, adorned and hallowed by the names and addresaes of three gene- rations of tourists, we have the cnimnling remains of Cain's altai^-fine old rain P Tben, no doubt, he taxed them a shekel apieoe and let them go. An illumination of Heidelberg Castle is one of the sights of Europe. The Castle's pictnresaue shape ; its commanding situa- tion, miaway up the steep and wooded mountain side ; ila vast size— these featnres combine to make an illumin- ation a most effective spectacle. It is neoessarily an expensive show, and con- sequently rather infrequent. Therefore, whenever one of these exnibitions is to take p^ace, the news goes about in the papers, and Heidelberg is sure to be full of people on that night. I and my agent had one of these opportunities, and improved it. About half past seven on the appointed evening we crossed the lower bridge, with some American students, in a pouring raio, and Started up the road whioh borders the Nennheim side of the river. This roadway was densely packed with carriages and foot passengers ; the former of all ages, and the atter of all ages and both sexes. This black and solid mass was straggling painfnUy on« ward, through the slop, the darkness, and the dalnge. We waded along for threa* quartan of a miK and flnallv took up a position in an unsheltered beer garden airectly opposite the Castisb Ws oonld not see the Castle,— or anything else, for tliat matter— but we could dimly disoem the oot> lines of the monntain over the way, throngb the pervading blaokoesi^ and knew where- abonts the Castle waaiooated. We etood oo one of the hundred benches in the garden, under our umbrellas i the other ainety>nin» were occupied by standios men and women, and they also had umbrellas. All tho reKioa round about, and up and down the river* road, waa a dense wilderaess of humanity hidden under an unbroken pavoment m carriage tope and umbrellas. Thus wo stood during two drenching hours. NofafaifeU on my head, but the oonvergdng whalebono points of a doaen neighbouring nmbrellaa poured little cooling streamsof waterdown my neck, and sometimes into my ears, and thus kept me from getting hot and impatient. I had the rheumatism, too, and nad heard that this was good for it. Afterward, how* ever, I was led to believe that the wator treatment is not good for rheumatism. There was even little girls in that dreadful plaoe. A man held one m his arms, just in front of mt, for as much as an hour, with umbrella- drippings soaking into her clothing all th<> time. In the droumstances, two hours was a good while for us to ihave to wait, but when the illnuination did at last come, we felt rC' paid. It came unexpectedly, of course, — things always do^ that have been long looked and longed for. With a perfectly breath- taking suddenness several vast aheavesof vari- ous-coloured rockets were vomited skyward out of the black throats of the castle towers, accompanied by a thundering crash of sound, and instantly every detail of the prodigious ruin stood revealed against the mountain side and glowing with an almost intoleraMe splendour of fire and colour. For some little time l^e whole building was a blinding crimson mass, the towers continued to spent thick columns of rockets aloft, and ovoruead the sky was radiant with arrowy bolts whioh clove their way to the zenith, paused, curved gracefully downward, then burst into brilliant sprays of richly coloured sparks. The red firee died slowly down, within the Castlo. and presently the shell grew nearly black outside ; the angry glare that shone . out through the broken arches and innnmer- I able sashless windows, now, reproduced the anpeot which the Caatio must have borne in the old time when tho French spoilers saw : .-i* ' Ti.' . ■ I ' IBS A TRAMP ABROAD. the moDttar bonfire which they had nnftde there fading »nd emovldering toward ex- tinotion. While we itill gazed aad enjoyed, the rain waa raddenly enveloped in rollinf( aud tumb- ling volumes of vmporoua greeu dre ; then in daading purple onee; then a mixcure of many oolonn followed, and drowned the Seat fabric in its blended iplen«lourt. eantima the neareat bridge had been iU Inminated, and from several rafts anohored in the river, meteor showers of rockets. Roman candles, bombs, serpents, and Catharine wheels were being ducharged in wasteful profusion into the sky— a marvel- lous sight indeedto a person as little used to such spectacles aa I was. For a while thu whole regies abont oa seemed as bright aa day, and yet the raia waa falling in torrenta all the time. The evening's entertainment presently closed, and we joined the innumer- able caravan of half-drowned spectators, and waded home again. The Caatle grounds are very ample and very beautiful ; and aa they joined the hotel grounda, with no fencea to climb, but only some nobly shaded stonb stairway to descend, we spent a part of nearly every day in idling through their smooth walks and leafy groves. There was an attractive spot among the trees wheretherewereagreat many wooden tables and benches ; and there one could sit in the shade and pretend to sip at his foamy beaker of beer while he inspected the crowd. I say pretend, beoaoae I only Sretended to sip, without really aipping. 'hat ia the polite way ; but when you are ready to go, yon empty tho beaker it a dianght. There waa a brass band, and it fnrnished excellent music every afternoon. Sometimes ao many people came that every aeat waa occupied, every teble filled. And never a rough in the aaaemblage — all nicely dresaed fathera and mothera, youp,'^ gentlemen and Udiea and cluldren ; via plevty of nniveraity atudenta and glittering vfuoera ; with here and there gray professor, or a peaceful old Ltdy with ner knitting ; and always a apriukling of gawky foreigners. Everybody luw his glass of beer before him, or his cup of coffee, or his bottle of wine, or his hot outlet and potetoes ; young ladies ohatied, or fanned themselves, or wrought at their crotohoting or embroidering ; the stu- dente fed !;iugar to their dogs, or discussed dnels, or illustrated new fenoing-tricks with their iittle oanea ; and everywhere was com- fort and enjoyment, and everywhere peace aoct good-will to men- The trees were jubi- 'antwith birdb, and the paths with rollicking children. One could have a seat in that (tlaco and plenty of music, any af temoou, for abont eight cents, or a family ticket for the season for two dollars. For a ohang^ when you wanted one^ yoa could stroll to the caatle, and burrow among ito dungeons, or climb about its ruiuea toweie, or visit its interior shows — the areat Heidelberg Tun, for iustancei Everybody has heard of the great Heidelberg Tun, ana moat people have seen it, no doubt. It is i( wine cask aa big as a cottage, and some tra- ditions say it holds eighteen hundred thou- sand botues, and other traditiona say it holds eighteen hundred million barrels. I thinkj^t likely that one of these statemento is a mutake, and the other one a lie. How- ever, the mere matter of captacity is a tiling of no sort of consequence, since the cask is empty, and indeed has always been empty, his says. An empty cask the size of a cathedral could excite but little emotion in me. I do not see any wisdom in building a monster cask to hoard up emptiuesa in, .7hen you can get a better quality, outside, any day, free of expense. What could this sask have been built for? The more one studies over that, the more uncertain and un- happy he becomes. Some historians say that couples, some say thirty' thousand couples, can dance at the head of this sask at the same time. Even this dotss not seem to me to account for the building of it. It does not even throw light on it. A profound and scholarly Englishman — a speciijist — who had made the great Heidelberg Tun hia sole study for fifteen years, told me he had at last satisfied himself that the anciento built it to make German cream in. He said that the average German cow yielded from one to two and a half teaspoonfuls of milk, when she was not worked in the plow or the hay wagon more than eighteen or nineteen hours a day. This milk was very sweet and good, and of a beautiful transparent bluish tint ; but in crder to get cream from it in the most economical way, a peculiar procou was uecesaary. Now he believed that the habit of the anciente was to collect sev'^ral milk- ings in a teacup, pour it into the great tun, fill np with water, and thon skim off the cream from time to time as the needs of the German Empire demanded. This began to look reasonable. It certein- ly began to aeoount for the German cream which I had encountered and marvelled over in so many hotels and resUurants. But a thought struck me— ' Why did not each anciect dairyman take hia own teacup of milk and his own cask of water, and mix them, without making % government matter of it t ' Where could he get a cask large enough tc contain the right proportion of water V et for tli(| t one, yoa >w among ts raiuM the sreit Tun, ttai Itii H •oqie tra- flred thou* jna say it oarrels. I Btatementi ie. How* is a thing the cask is een empty, size of a emotion in building^ a ptiuess in, ty, outside, i oould this more one lain and nn« itorians say thoosana this 3ask at not seem to of it It A profoand speoiidist — lerg Tan his I me he had he anoients in. fie said pelded from uls of milk, i plow or the or nineteen ry sweet and larent bluish from it in the ' procoas was lat the hubit several milk* b.e great tun, skim off the needs of the . It certain* erman oream arvelled over ants. But a airyman take I own cask of at making » large enough a of water?" ▲ TRAMP ABROAD. 159 Very true. It was plain that the English* man bad studied the matter from all sides. Still I thought I might oatoh him on one point ; so 'I asked him why the modern em* pire did not make the nation's oteam in the Heidelberg Tun, instead of leaving it to rot away unused. But he answered as one pre* pared — ' A patT^nt and diligent examination of the modern German cream has satisfied me that they do not f se the Great Tan now, because they have got a bigger one hid away some* wh'3r<:. Either that is thei.oase or they empty the spring milkings into the mountain tor* rents and then skim the Rhine all summer.' There is a museum of antiquities in the castle, and among its most treasured relics are ancient manuscripts connected with Ger- man history. There are huAdreda of these, and their dates stretch back through many centuries. One of them is a decree signed and sealed by the hand of a suooeBsor of Charlemagne, in the year 896. A signature made by a baud which vanished out of this life near a thousand years ago, is a more im- pressive thing than even a ruined castle. Luther's wedung ring was shown me ; also a fork belonging to a time anterior to our era. and an early bootjack. And there was a plaster oast of the head of a man who was assassinated about sixty years ago. The stab'wounds in the face were duplicated with unpleasant fidelity. One or two real hairs still remain n the eyebrows of the cast. That trifle seemed to almost to change the counterfeit into a corpse. There are many aged portraits— some valuable, some worthless, some of great in* terest, some of none at alL I bought a couple— one a gorgeous duke of the olden time, and the otlier a comely blue-eyed dam- sel, a princess, maybe. I bought them to staJrt a portrait gallery of my aocestors with. I pai<* a dollar and a half for the duke and two ^iid a half for the princess. Oue can lay in ancestors at even cheaper rates than these, in Europe, if he will mouse among old picture shops and look out for chances. 0.— THE COLLEGE PRISON. It seems that the student may break a good many of the public laws without having to answer to the public authorities. His case must come before the University for trial and punishment. If a policeman catches him in an unlawful act and proceeds to ar- rest him, the offender proclaims that he is a student, and perhaps shows his matricula- tion card, whereupon the officer asks for his address, then goes his way, and reports the matter at heiKlquartert. If the uffeaoe is one over which the city has no jnrisdiotiop, the authorities report the case offidally to the University, and give themselves no further oonoem sbont it. The University court send for the student, listen to the evi* denoe, and prouounoe judgment. The pun* isbment usually icfltoted is imprisonment in the University prison. As I understand it, a student's case is often tried without his be ing present at all. Then something likn this happens : A constable in the service of the University v'sits the lodgings of the said students, knocks, is invited to come in, does so, and says politely— ' If you please, I am here to conduct you to prison.' ' Ah,' says the student^ ' I was not ex- pecting it What have I been doing ?' " Two weeka ago the public peace had the honour to be disturbed by you." 'It is true ; I had forgotten it Very well : I have been complained of, tried, and found guilty — is that it V ' Exactly. You are sentenced to two r' ays' solitary confinement in the College Prison, and I am sent to fetch you.' aStudent ' O, I can't go to-day I * If you please — why ? * , ' Because I've got an engage* ' To-morrow, then, perhaps ? ' '^ ' No, I am going to the opera. ,*.?■ Officer. Student ment' Officer. Student to morrow.' Officer. ' Oould yoa come Friday? ' Student. (Reflectively. ) ' Let me Friday — Friday. I don't seem to have any- thing on hand Fridav.' Officer. * Then, if yon please, I will ex* pect yon on Friday.' Student 'All right, 111 come around Friday.' Officer. * Thank you. Good dfty, sir. Student ' Good day.' So on Friday the student goes to the prison of his own accord, and is admitted. It is questionable if the world's criminal history can show a custom more odd tlum this. Nobody knows, now, how it origi: nated. There have always been many noblemen among the students, and it is pre- sumed that all students are gentlemen ; in the old times it was usual to mar' the oou- venience of such folk as littl(» as possible ; perhaps this indulgent custom owes its ori- gin to this. One day I waa listening to some oonver* aation upon this subject when an American student said that fur some time he had been under sentence for a|Blight breach of the peace and had promised the constable that he would presently find an unoccupied day and betake himseu to prison. I asked the 1 • !i 'w^pN'WHHBIWl^BBBi^^^P^^^^^ '^ 100 A TRAMP ABROAD. I' ? young gentleman to do me the kindness to go to Jul M soon M he con?eniently conM» ao that I might try to get in there and visit him, tod see what college captivity was like, fie said he woold appoint the very first day h^ oonld spare. His confinement was to endure twenty* four hoars. He shortly chose his da^, and sent me word. I started immediately. When I reached the University Place, I saw two gentlemen talking together, and as they had portfolios under their arms, I jodged they were tutors or elderly students ; so I asked them in illngHijl' to show the college jail. I hau learned to take it for granted that anybody in 0*rm^ -^ who knows any* thing, knows Enfjlish, k.c I had stopped afflicting people with my Qerman. These gentlemen seemed a trifle amused — and a trifle c^afuBe V tcHi- -bntone of them said he would walk around the comer with me and show me the place. He asked me why I wanted to get in there, and I said to see a friend — and for curiosity. He doubted if I would be admitted, but volunteered to put in a word or two for me with the ous* tudian. He rang the bell, a doot upened, and we stepped into a paved way and then into a smaU living room, where we were received by a hearty and good-natured German woman of fifty. She threw up her hands withasurpiised 'Ach Gott, Herr Professorl' and exhibited? a mighty deference iot my new acquaintaL'ce. By the sparkle in her eye^ I judged she was a good deal amused, too. The 'Herr Professor' tidked to her in German, and I understood enough of it to know that he was bringing very plausible reasons to bear for admitting me. They were suocessfuL So the Herr Professor received my earnest thanks and de> parted. The old dame got her keys, took me up two or three flighte of stairs, unlock- ed a door, and we stoMJ in the presence of the criminal. Then she went into a jolly and eager description of all that had ooourred down stairs, and what the Herr Professor had said, and so forth and so on. Plainly she regarded it as quite a superior joke that I had waylaid a Professor and employed him in BO odd a service. But I wouldn't have ilune it if I had kuown he was a Piofessor ; therefore my conscience was not disturbed. Now the dame left us to ourselves. The cell was not a roomy one ; still it was a little larger than an ordinary prison celL It had • window of good size, iron-grated ; a small ■tove ; two wooden chairs; two oaken tables very old and most elaborately carved with names, mottoes, faces, armorial bearingii, etc. — the work of several generations of im* Erisoned students, and a narrow wooden edstead with a villainous old stoaw matt^rass but no sheets, pillows, blankets or coverlets — for these the student must furnidi at his own cost if he wants them. There wtm no cwpet, of course. ^e ceiling was completely covered with names, dates, and monograms, done with candle smoke. The walls we^e tihiokly covered with pictures and portraits (in pro* file), some done with ink, some with soot, some with a pencil and some with red, Une, and green chalks ; and wherever an inch of space had remained between the pictures, the captives had written pluntive verses, or names and dates. I do not think I nas ever in a more elaborately frescoed apart* ment. A|punst the wall hung a placard containing , the prison laws. I made a note of one or two of these. For instance : The prisoner must pa]^, for the ' privilege ' of entering, a sum equivalent to 20 cents of our money ; for the privilege of leaving, when his term has expired, 20 cents ; for every day spent in the prison, 12 cents ; for fire and light, 12 cents a day. The jaoler furnishes coffee, mornings, for a small sum; dinners and suppers may be ordered from outside if the prisoner chooses — and he is allowed to pay for them, too. Here and there, on the walls, appeared the names of American students, and in one place the American arms and motto were displayed in coloured chalks. With the help of my friend I translated many of the inscriptions. Some of them were cheerful, others the reverse. I will givf> the reader a few specimens ; ' In my tenth semestre, (my best one,) I am oast here through the complaints of others. Let those who follow me take warning.' « 'III Tage ohne Grand angeblioh aus Neugierde.' Which is to say, he had a curiosity to know what pris'^n-life wan like ; so he made a breach in some law and got three days for it. It is more than likely that he never had the same curiosity again. (Translation.) 'E. Glinicke, four days for being too eager a spectator of a row.' • F. Graf Bismarck— 27-29. II, 74.' Which means that Count Bismark, son of the great statesman, was a prisoner two days in 1874> (Translation.) ' R. Diergaadt— for Love —4 days.' Many people in this world have caught it heavier than that for the same in* d'«oretion. i. Ais one IS terse. I translate : ^V, * Four weeks for misinterp^'eted gallantry.' I wui^ tk9 m^nef had explained a little A TRAMP ABROAD. lA na of im- wooden inittVMS oovarlet* ih at his •e WM no >red with lone with thiokly I (in pro* rith loot, red, bine, b inoh of piotnres, versei, or nk I KM mmI apart* sontaining. of one or a prisoner mtering, a r money ; L hit term day apent 1 light, 12 lea ooffee, inera and iside if the red to pay peared the nd in one lotto were translated B of them le. I wiU est one,) I iplainta of me take eblioh ana he had a e wan like ; iw and got ;han likely jaity again, four daya a row.' 74.' Which }f the great kya in 1874. t— for Love world have he same in* 1 gallantry.' ined a littla I mam folly. A four week** term is a rather aeriona matter. There were many nnoomplimentary re- ferences, on the walls, to a certain nnpopn* lar college dignitary. One snfferer had got thr«e days for not salatiog him. Another had 'here two days slept aud three cig*its lain awake^' on account of this aame * Dr. K.' la one place was a piotore of Dr. E. hanging on a giJlowa. Here and there, loneaome prisoners had eased the heavy time by altering the records left by predeoeaaora. Leaving the name ■tending, and the date and length of the captivity, they had eraaed the description of the miademeanor, and written in its place, in atariog oapitala, ' vob thrit I ' or ' vok MUSDKH 1 ' or aome other gaudy crime. In one place, aU by itaelf, stood this blood- eurdling word : ! .■;;-' '£aohb!'* . ^' There was no name sisned, and no date. It was an inscription welTcalculated topiqae cnriosity. One would greatly like to know the nature of the wrong that had been done, and what sort of vengeance was wanted, and whether tbe prisoner ever achieved it or not. Bnt there was no way of finding out these things. Occasionally a name was followed simply by the remark, 'II days, for disturbing the peace,' 7:t><1 without comment npon the jus- tice or iu'iut t/ce of the sentence. In one pUse was a hilarious picture of a atndent of the green-cap corps with a bottle of champagne in each hand ; and below was the legend : ' Theae make an evii fate en- durable.' There were two priaon cells, and neither had apace left on walla or ceiling for another name or portrait or picture. The inaide snr- faoea of tiie two doors were completely covered with cartes de visite of former prisoners, ingeniously let into the wood and protected from dirt and injury by glass. I very much wanted one of the sorry old tables which the pris- oners had spent so many years in ornament* ing with their pocket knives, but red tape was in the way. The custoditn could not sell one without an order from a superior ; and that superior would have to get it from his superior; and this one would have to ges it from a higher one— and so on up and up until the faculty should sit on the mat- ter and deliver final judgment The sya* i:v.';n ■yu right, and nobody could find fault wibhit; but it did not seem justifiable to t>vith'j/ so many people, so I prooeeJeil no urtb r, It might nave oost uiemoiothau I could afford, anvway ; for one of those prison tables, which was at that time in a private museum in Heidelberg, was after- wards sold at auction for two hundred and fifty dollars. It was not worth more than a dollar, or possibly a dollar and a hal^ befor» the captive students began their work on it. Persons who saw it at the anotion said it was so cnrionslv and wonderfully carved that it was worth the money that was paid for it. Among the many who have tasted the col* lege prison's dreary hospitality was a lively young fellow from one of the Southern States of America, whose first year's experience of German university life was rather peonliar. The day he arrived in fieidlberg he enrolled his name on the college books, and was so elated with the fact that his dearest hope had found fruition and he was actually a student of the old and renowned university, that he set to work that very nijght to ode- brate the event by a grand liurk m company with some other students. In the course at his lark he managed to make a wide breach in {one of the university's most stringent laws. Sequel : before noon, next day, he was in the college prison — ^booked for three months. The twelve long weeks dragged slowly by, and the day of deliverance came at lattt^ A great crowd of sympathiung fel- low-atudents received him with a ronaing demonatration as he came forth, and of course tliere was another grand lark — ^in the course of which he managed to make a wide breach in one of the city's most stringent laws. Sequel : before noon, next day, he was safe in the city look-up— booked for three months. This second temous captivity drew to an end Vk the course of time, and again a great crowd of sympathizing fellow- students gave him a rousing reception as he came forth ; but his delisht in his freedom was so boundless that he could not jprooeed soberly and calmly, but must go hoppmg and skipping and jntnying down the sleety street from sheer excess of joy. Sequel : he slipped and broke his leg, and actually lay in thii^ hospital during the next three months 1 When he at last became a free man again, he said he believed he would hunt up a biisker jeat of learning ; the Heidelberg Itiotnres might be good, but the hours of at- tending tbem were toj rare, the educational process too alow; he said he had come to Eu- rope with tbe ide'i that the acquirement of an euuoation was only a matter of time, but if he had averaged the Heidelberg system cor reotly, i>< was rather a matter of eternity. rn>' iy>h •St/ ; ' •'VHr'* .■>.(: f* fl. ' 162 A TRAMP ABROAD. ,P»TAi: AWFUL GERMAN LANGUAGB. : A little learning niftkes the whole world kin. — ProverM zzzii, 7. I went often to look at the oollection of •oarioeitie* in Heidelberg Caatlc. and one day I sarprised. the keeper of it with ray Ger- man. I apoke entirely in that lanKicage. He was greatly interested ; and after I bad talked awhile he said my German was very rare, poiaibly a ' unique ;' and wanted to . add it to hit mnienm. If he had known what it bad cost tae to acquire my art, he woold also have known : that it would break any oollector to bny it. ', Harris and I had been hard at work on onr I 'German daring several weeks at that time, ■ and althoagh we had made good progress^ it had btien acoorapliahed under great diffimlty and annoyanee, for three of oar teaohers had died in the meantime. A person who has not studied German can form no idea of what a perplexing language it is. Surely therf, is not another language that is so slip-diotl and systemless, and so slip- pery and elusive to the srasp. One in wash- ed al>oat in it, hither and thither, in the most helpless way ; and when at last he thinks be baa captured a rule whish offers firm ground to take a rest on axnid the general rage and tnrmoil of the tan parts of apeech, he turns over the page and reeds, ' Let the pupil make careful note of the following ezoep- -tiona.' He ran* bia vy down and finds that the^ are more exceptions to the mle than instances of it. So overboard he goes again, to hunt for another Ararat and find another quioksand. Such has been, and continues to be, my experience. Every time I think I have got one of these four confusing 'cases' where I am master of it, a seemingly insignificant prerosition intrudes itself into my seatence, dotbed with an awful and unauspected power, and oramblos the ground from under me. For instance, my book inquires after a certain bird— ( it is always inquiring after things which are u no sort of conaeqnenoe to anybody): " Whet : is the bird?' Now the answer to thi. SUGstiou — according to the book — ^is that lie bird ia waiting in the blackamith shop on account of the rain. Of course no bird would do that, but fuva yon must stick to the book. Very weU, I began to cipher ont the German for that r,nswer. I begin at the wrong end, necessarily, for that is the Qet' man idea. I say to myself, ' Regen, ( rain,) is masculine — or maybe it is feminine — or possibly neuter— it is too much trouble to look, now. Therefore, it is either der (the) Regen, or die (the) Rngeu, or das (the) Regen, according to which gender it may turn out to be i^en I look. In the interest of science, I will cipher it ou^> on the hypotheaia that it ia ntaaculine. Very well — ^thenthe rain ia der Regen, if it is aimpH' in the quiescent atate of being mentioned, without enlargement or diacuaaion — Nomina* tive oaae ; but if thia rain is lying aroand, ia a kind of a general way on the gronnd, it is then definitely located, it is doing something - -that ia, reating, (which is one of the Ger- man grammar'a ideas of doing something,) and thia throws the rain into the Dative case, and makes it dem R^n. However, thia rain ia not reating, bcc is doing aome- thing actively— it ia fallios — to interfere with the bird, likely — una this indicates movement, which hai* the effect of sliding it into the Accusative oaae and changing dwm Re^en into den Regen.' Having completed the grammatical horoscope of this matter, I answer up confidently and state in German that the oird is staying in the blacksmith shop * wegen (en account of ) den Regen.* Then the teacher lets me softly down with the remark thai whenever the word * wegan' drops into a sentet.oe, it always throws that subject into the Genitive case, regardless of consequences — and that therefore this bird staid in the blacksmitii shop ' wegen des Resens.' N. B. I was informed, later, by a higher authority, that there was aa ' exception' which iMrmits one to say * wegen des I^gen' in certain peculiar and oosnplex oireomstanos, but that this exception is not extended to anything but rain. There are ten parts of speech, and they are all troublesome. An average sentence, in a German newspaper, is a snblime and im- pressive cariosity ; it occupies m quarter of a column; it contains all the ten parts of speech— not in regnlar order, bat nuxed ; il is built mainly of compouod words oonstiuo* ted by the wntor on tne spot^ and not to bo found in any dictionary— six or seven words compacted into one, without joint or seam- that is, without hyphens ; it treats of lour- teen or fifteen different sabjeota^ esoh en* closed in a parenthesis of its own, with here and there extra paronthees whioh re-endose three or f oar of the minor parenthesis, mak- ing pens within pens ; finaUy all the paren- theses and| re-parentheses |are mawinl t^ gether between a couple of king-parentheje% one of which is placed in the first line ok the majestic seatence and the othar in the middle of the last line of it— after which comes the verb, and yon find out for the first time what the man has been telking about ; and aftor the verb— merely by way ef orna- ment, as far as I can make ont — the writer above ben ( a^d ' that thefl sary, enonj theh as to thatl man i remaj Ye tirely distoi as to when oarric yon i what No and < pareo iitera thesii taaoe there and t the ri •B satin straii govei eto. Th by SI strao mod< from a O awaii hean one: a CO have verb ieft! W Uter ever with tiae( with and aeno fog peop nece won that oonf whs I A TRAMP ABROAD. IS' Ser it m»7 he iatoreit nf. on th« Very well t is timpb' mentioned, i~Nominft* ; woand, in ^ond, it it I something f the Oer- ■omething,) thelHtiye HoweTetf doing some- > interfere kis indic»te« at sliding it ranging dem ; completed s matter, I in Qemum blaoVsmith den Regra.' f down with orl * WMmn' throws that 'Sgsrdleie of re this bird ' wegen des by » higher * exception' ndesRegen' ireomstMics, extended to oh, and they sentenoe, in imeand im* qoarterof » en parts of atnuxed; it rds oonstruo- nd not to be •even words at or seam— reats of low- its^ eaoh en* iifWith here ih re-enclose ithssis, mak- 11 the pares* massed t^ -«urenth«MS, first line ok I other in th« -after which t for the first Iking about ; way ef oma- t — the writer flfaovels in ' haben sind geweaen gehabt ha- ben gewordensein,' or words to that effect, and the monnment is finished. I suppose that this dosing horrah is in the natnre of the flooridi to a man's signatnre — ^not neces- sary, but pretty. German books are easy enough to read when yoa hold them before the looking-glass or stand on your head— so as to reverse the construction — but I think that to learn to read and understand a Ger- man newspaper is a thing which must always remain an impoasibility to a foreigner. Yet even the German books are not en- tirely free from attacks of the parenthesis distemper— though they are usually so mild as to oover only a few lines, and therefore when yon at last i^et down to^ the verb it carries some meaning tolyour mind, beoanae yon are able to remember a good deal of what has gone before. Now hera is a sentence from a popular and excellent German novel— -with a alight parenthesis in it. I will make a perfectly literal translation, and throw in the paren- thesis*ma7ks|and some hyphens for the asaia- tanoe of the reader— though in the original there are no parenthesis-marks or hyphens, and the reader is left to flounder through to the remote verb the best way he van : * But when he, upon the street, the (in- satin - and - silk - covered • now - very -nneon- atrainedly - after-the-neweatfashiou-dreaaed) government oounsdler's wife met, etc>, That is from 'The Old Manselle's Secret,' by Mrs. Marlitt. And that S'^ntence is con- structed upon the most approved Germui modeL You observe how far the verb is from the reader's base of operations ; well, in a German newspaper they put their verb away over on the next page ; and I have heard that sometimes after striuging along on exciting preliminaries and parentheses for a oolumn or two, they gut in a hurry and have to go to press withont getting to the verb at all Of conns, then, thu reader is left in a very exhanated and ignorant state. We have the parenthesis diHoaae in our literatnn, too i and one may see oases of it every day in our books and newspapers : bnt with us It is the mark and sign of %n unprac- tised writer or a cloudy intellect, wherew with the Germans it is doubtless the mark and sign of a practised pen and of the pre- sence of that sort of luminous intellectual fog which stands for clearness arong these people. For surely it is not olearness— it neoessariiy can't be dea/neas. Even a jury would have penetration enough to discover that. A writer's ideas must be a good deal confused, a good i^** out of lino and sequence, when he starts to say that a man met a counsellor's wife in the street, and then right in the midst of this so simple under- taking hdts these approaching people and makes them stand still until he jots down an inventory of the woman's dress. That is manifestly abtmrd. It reminds a person of those dentistis who secure your instant and breathless i?>terest in a tooth by taking r. grip on it with the forceps, and then stand there and drawl through a tedious anecdote before they give the dreaded jerk. Paren- thraia in literature and dentistry are in bad taste. The Germans have another kind of paren- tb<«si8, which they make by splitting a verb in two and putting half of it at the beginning of an exciting chapter and the other half at the end of it. Can any one conceive of any- thing more confuaing than that? These things are called 'separable verbs.' The German grammar is blistered all over with separable verba; and the wider the two portions of one of them are spread apart, the better the author of the crime is pleased with his performance. A favorite one is reviste ab— which means, departed. Here is an example which I cull- ed from a novel and reduced to English : • The trunks being now ready, he DE after kiaaing hia mother and aiaters, and once more preasing to hlsiipaom his adored Gretohen, who, dressed ii^Pnple white musliu, with a single tube-roue in the ample folds of her rich brown hair, had tottered feebly down the stairs, stiU pale from the terror and ex- oisement of the past evening, but longing to lay her poor aching head yet once again on the breast of him whom she loved more dear- ly than life itself, PARTED.' However, it is not weU to dwdl too much on the separable verbs. ^ One is sure to lose ^ his SnperWly , and if he -tie]" ^ the -ub- ieot. and will not be warned, it wiU at last iither soften his brain or petrify A Person- al pronouns mi adjectivea are a Jr^ittnl^* sance in this language, and sbould have been left out. For instance, the same sound, sie, mea^s you, and it means die, and it means "«; and it means it, and it means them. Think of the ragged poverty of s * JgofRJ which haa to make one word do the work of J^x^nda poor little weak thingof only tbije letters at that. But mMnly, think of the ewJperation of never knowing. whidi of thesemeanings the speaker is trying to con- vev. This explains why, whenever a person ITJ; sie tom^Igenerldlytrytokillhim.if "N^w^^bserve the •di««*S«-^ ^^^ ^' * case whore simplioity would have been an advantage ; therefore, for no other reason. ■?:;■'! ■"SfiP'.M'w 1% '■:0 A TRAMP ABROAD. the inventor of thU lan|iaa»x^ oompIio»ted it •11 !ie oould. When tve wiob to speak of our " good friend or friendi," in f^n^ enlightened tongae, we ■tick to the one form and have no trouble or hard feeling abnnt it ; but with the Oermaa tonsue it i« different. When a German geta hie Hand on an adjective, he de* olines it, and keeps on declining it nntil the common sense ia all declined out of it. It ia ai bad ai Latin. He says, for inatanoe : ■.rfi^t SIlfODIAB. ■^^M'f Nominatire—Mein gater Freand, mj good friead. Genitive— Meinea gaten Freundei, of my good friend. Dative — Mdricm gaten Freund, to my good f riead. Accusative — Meiaen gaten Freand, my good friend. gutea I'^vunde, my good gaten Freuud% of my good gaten Freandeu, to my good gaten Freuj^i^, my good N. — Meine friends. G. — Meinor friends. D. — Meinen friends. A. — Meine iriondii. ,„ Now| let the candidate for Ime asylum it y to memorize these variations, and see how soon he will be elected. One might better go wiiiliont friends in Germany than take cU thin ti cable about them. I have shown what a bother .it is to declioe a good ^male) friend; well, this ia only m third of the work, for there ia a variety of new distortions of the adjective to be loarued when the object i» feminine, and 8{.ill another when the object is neater. Xow there are more adjectives in this lacgUAge ^han there are bkek cats in Switserlia(9, and they must all be as elabor< atcly declined m the examples above susigest- ed. Difficalt .- -^rcnbif some ? —these words cannot desoriba it. I heard a Califomian atudent in .Heider>. j, say, iu one cf his oalmect moodc, that be would rather decline two drinks than oi..: German ad^'eotive. The inveutor of the language seems to havo taken pleasure in oomplioating it is, every way he could think of. For instance, if one ia casually referring tu a bouse, Hans, or a horse, Pferd, or a dug, Hand, he spells these worda an I have indicated ; but if he is referring to them in the Dfttive case, he sticks on a foolish and unnecessary (e) and upells them Hause, Pforde, Hunde. So a« an added (e) offam sigoiiies the plural, as the («) does with us, the new student is likely to go on for a month making twins ont of a .(>ative dog before he disoovevs his mistake ; ead on the other hand, many a new student who could ill afford loss, haa bought and paid for two dogs and only got one of them# oeoaa?* he ignorantly bought thr^t dog in the Dative singular when he really suppoMd he mu talk- intt plural— whioh left the law on tho teller's aide, of course, by the strict rales o>i gram- mar, and therefore a auit for iwovety could not lie. In German, all the noans begin with a capital letter. Now that is a good ide:/ ; and a good idea, in this language, is neoeo>^t'i'.y conM(:acuou8 from its lonesomenesa. I coxt- sider thiii oapitalijsing of nouns a good id.tia, becAKse by reason of ityoa are almost always able t'> toll anouo themiunte you see it. Yon fall into error Ai aftme of a- pereoo for the name*of a thing, and wcata :&, ;-c'iitA deal liit time t:y- ingtodig a vreanhi. r.ui >}f .i$i, Goroma names aloooBtalwayb 4v itfi*. . <»nflthm»- lateda piuiss^a u«day, v] .:h *>Md that ' the infuriated t>greeativ« !• ^rxi talk- the feller's es ci gram- overy could n with • ideiA ; and aeoeoMfi'.y tewi. I cos:!- a good idiiss, moat- alwaya uieeik Yon iM you mil' i:he nai£e*of X time try- a«tK.U{u»ud %< I tr^iOB- id th.at ' the d utterly ate 'ivui;enwald). u to doabt raid, in this d there is no tion ; BO tho ately and by To do tbu a memoraa- ; lady has no t MrhA& over- >r the turnip^ the t^irl. S^e »te thut f irom t of the G^r* e is the tor- the kitoheiu. itoooBiplished e opera.* ' i genders : a [o, its leavM SB, doss are iiocluaed, o" k, boaom, el- dy are o{ the ir neuter, ao> io signify it, : the udivid- lany all the 8 or sezlesa ilder, breast, female sex ; legs, knees. / A TRAMP ABROAD. 168 heart and ooBsoienoe. haven't any sex at all. The inventor of the langnaga probably got what he knew about a oonsoienoe from here- say. Now, by the above disBeotion, the reader will see that in Ghrmnn t» mux may tbink he is a man, but 'wh^a ho ccute^^ to look into the matter oloa^'y, h» is bocud to have his doubts ; he itada i'Mt in si>l*er tvislh he is a moslriuionloua iui.'><.\)re ; «.&d it h* ^ada by tryinnr to ooroiorb Mis^tfilf with i-hf '.Dusht that U-) can ».■■ U-imit ih.c^nu ■::•{ a ib,i ^ o{ uiia mess »s bfling manly uid masc.Li.-i, the hu- miliati:^ seooriit thought will qniokly re> snind hiiTi that in this rsBpect he it) no better iiW than any woman or cow in the land. In the Qermau 't is true that Sy aome overe/i hi of ^.he invdntcr -jt t ;e lai>:jua({e, a ^k-, aucc^rding a. ihe grammar, a fish is he, hia 80i^!i^>. are she, but u fishwife is neither. To dtisotibe a wife as sexless may be called under-desoription ; that is bad enough, but over description is surely worse. A German speaks of an Englishman as the Englander ; to change the sex he adds inn, and that staads for Englishwoman — England- erinn. Tliab seems descriptive enongh, but Btill it is B :>& exact enongh for a German ; so he preoedea the word with that article which indicates that the creature to follow is femi- nine, and mites it down thus : — 'dieEng- budcrinn,' which means ' the she-Euglish- woman. ' T consider that that person is over- described. Well, after the student has learned the sex of a great number of nouns, he is still in a (liffisulty, because he finds it impossible to persuade his tongue to refer to things as 'he' and * she,' and 'him' and 'her,' which be has always been accustomed to as 'it.' When he >3ven frames a German sentence in his mind, with the him? and hers in the right places, and then works up his courage to the utter- ance-point, it is no use — tbe moment he be- gins to speak his tongue flios ^ae track and al) those laboured ma?es and females come oti « as ' its.' And even when he is readmg German to himself he always calls those tbings 'it,' whereas he ought to read in this way : Taub or ■■' r ijisHwuB andItsSadF.'/^., Itias . Day. Hear the Rain, how he :.y-'t- d the Hail, how he rattles ; and BCF '.V, how he drifts along, and oh th. ,■.;,-., how deep he is I Ah tV i poor Fut - , it is stuck fast in the Mire ; it hns *X <.p i the^ouuB, in the German (and ancient Kt > .) fashion. dropped its Basket of Fishes ; and its hande have been out by the Scales as it seized som . of the falling Creatures ; and one Scale hss even got into its Eye, and it cannot get her out. It opens its Month to cry for Help ; but if any Sound oomes out of him, alas he is drowned by the raging of tlie Storm. And now a Tomcat has got one of the Fishes and she will surely escape with him. No, she bites o£F a Fm, she holds her in her mouth — will she swallow her f No, the Fishwive's brave Mother-Dog deserts his Puppies and rescues the Fin — which he eats himself, as his reward. O, horror, the lightoin^ has struck the fishbasket : he sets him on fare ; see the fl«me, how she licks the doomed ntensil with her red and angry tongue ; now she attacks the helpless Fish- wife's foot— she burns him up, all but the big Toe and ^))e tha: reiguer. '■*■ It is so in our tongue, and it is noiir; bly the ' <^ c&se in the German. Now there is than il troublesome word verroailt : to me it has 3(» clo!3 a i. semblance, — either real or farcied ^< to three or four other words, that l'*^ never know whether it means despisetl. , fe ^^, * nir A TRAMP ABROAD. 1 p' If il if {»aintod, suBpeoted, or married ; nntil I ook in the dictionary, and titen I find it* means the latter. There are lots of such words, and they are a great torment. To inorease tha difficulty there are words which ■eem to resemble each other, and yet do not ; bnt they make jnst at much trouble as if they did. For instance, there is the word Termiethen, ( to let^ to lease, to hire ; ) and the word Terheirathen, (another way of say- ing to marry.) I heard of an Englishman who knocked at a man's door in Heidelberg and propcMd, in the best German he could com- mand, to ' Terheirathen ' that house. Then there are some words which mean one thing when you emphasise the first syllable, but mean somethinir very different if you throw the emphasis on the last syllable. For in- ■tanoe, there is a word which means a run- away, or the act of slanoing through a bo.->k, according to the placing of the empbaais ; and another word which signifiea to associate with a man, or to avoid him, according to where you put the emphasis — and you can generally depend ou putting it in the wrong place and getting into trouble. There are some exceedingly useful words in this language. Sohlag, for example ; and Zng. There are three-quarters of a column of Sohlags in the dictionary, and a column and a half of Zugs. The word Schlag means Blow, Stroke, Dash, Hit, Shock, Clap. Slap, Time, Bar, Coin, Stamp, Kind, Sort, Manner, Way, Apoplexy, Wood-Cutting, Enclosure, Field, Foreet Clearing. This is its simple and exact meaning — that is to say, its restricted, ita fettered meaning ; but there are waya by which you can set it free, so that it can soar •W»y» as on the wings of the morning, and never be at rest You can hang any word yon please *"<> ita tail, and make it mean any- thing yo'i 'vftut to. Yon can begin with Sohlag-a ir-:, which means artery, and you can bans on the whole dictionary, word' by word, clear through the alphabet to Sohlag- wttBKiT, which means bilge-water— and in- dnding Sohlag-mutter, which means mother- in-law. Just the same with Zug. Strictly speak- ,ing, Zag means Pall, Tug, Draueht, Pro- oetsion, March, Progress, Flight, Direction, Expedition, Train, Caravan, Passage, Stroke, Touch, Line, Flourish, Trait of Character, Feature, Lineament, Chess-move, Organ- stop, Team»Whift, Bias, Drawer, Fropen- rit^, Inhalation, Dispositiun ; bnt that thing wmoh it does not mean — when all its legiti- mate pjBndants have been hung on, hae not been dincovered yet. One cannot overestimate the VMfalness of Schlag and Zug. Armed just with thsM two. and the word, also, what ounot the foreigner on German soil accomplish T The German word, also, is the equivalent of the English phrase, " You know, ' and u man newspaper any time and see them marching majestically aoress the page, and if he has any imagination he oan see the ban- ners and hear the music, too. They impart a marUal drill to the weakest subject. I tek« a great interest in these curiositieSr When- ever I come across a good one, I »uff it and put it in my museum. In this way I have made quite a valuable ooUeotion. When I ([•t duplicates, I exchange ^ith other ool* eoton, and thni JaortMO tub Twlety of my it, }liah ? The fvaJAnt of the md uw« not t, tbou^j it tiiUA a Uer- la out, Aud fa oue in two with theae |he aituation. '••leasly j let forth, and Jm heave a ihaooes are, itdoMn% 'ter it ; the baoK the ■hoald faiJ, «y will sive the neeafol Ml your oon* to throw in fo ; beoaoaa w mnch the >a are boond Then yon agun. No. od elegance ^ an English of 'aUo's' try: y, a word of Uy removed I from near ktely the sur- r iMaoe. un- aed apano- >aata gloom rt for a few arioQs and the length lan words erapeotive. 1. rds, they A.nd they D ft Get' see them »ge, andif 3 the ban- ey impart ot I take When, uffitand ftyl have When I >thei' ool* ity of mj A TRAMP ABROAD. 167 ■lock. Here are some specimens which I klely boaght at an aaotion sale of the effects of a bankmpt bric*a.brao hnnter : OBNUALBTAATaVBK0BX>NKnN TKBaAK* KLUMOBir. AliTBItTBiniBWZSSSBASOHAVmr. KlKDKUBWAHBVNOLANSTALTEir. Umabhauioiokkitskrklaxrunokit. WlBDBBHBIUiTBU.UKOSBt8TRUUNOSir. WAomnmLLBTAirDstJimBaANDLuiraBir. Of coarse when one of these great monntain ranged goes stretching across the minted peg«> it adorns and ennobles the Rerary laadscape—bat at the same time it is a great distress to the new stadent, for it blocks np his way ; he cannot orawl under it, or c^imb over it or tnnnel throngh it So he resorts to the dictionary for help ; bat there is no help there. The dictionary mast draw the line somewhere — so it leaves this sort of words oat. And it is right, because these long thinss are hardly lositimate words, bat are ratner combinations of words, and the inTentor of them ought to have been killed. They are compound words, with the hyphens left out. The various words naed in building them are in the diotionaiy, but in a very scatter- ed condition ; so you can hunt the materials out, one by one., and get at the meaning at last, but it is a tedious and harassing business. I have tried the pro. CMS upon some of the above examples, ' Freandschaf tsbezeigungen ' seems to be ' Friendship demonstrations,' which is only a foolish Mid clumsy way of daying ' demon- strations of friendship.' * IJnabhaengigkeit- serklaemngen ' seems to be ' Independence declarations,' which is no improvement upon 'Dechurobtions of Independence,' as far as I can see. ' Generalstaatsverordneten* ▼anammlungen ' seems to be * Generalstatea • representativesmeetings,' as nearly as I can St at it — a mere rhythmical, gushy euphoism r ' meetings of the legislature,' I judge. We used to have a good deal of this sort of orime in our literature, but it has gone oat, now. We used to speak of a thing as a 'never.tO'be> forgotten' circumstance, instead of cramping it into the simple and sufficient word 'memorp.ble' and then going calmly aboat our buiineas as if nothing had hap- pened. In those days we were not content to embalm the thing and bury it decently, we wanted to build a monument over it But in our newspapers the compounding, disease ^'ngers a little to the present day. but with the man fashio ? instead of s^v county and (i ' lerday,' the k. vphens left out, m the Ger- ^is is the shane ic takes : Mr. Simo :, rk of the lii couits, was iu ,o*n yes y form puts it thus : ' Clbik oi the Oonnty and District Oourt Simmons was in town yesterday.' This saves neither time nor ink, and has an awkward sound be* sides. One often sees % remark like thiu in oar papers t 'Mrs. Asaistant District Attor* ney Johnson returned to her citf residence yesterday for the season.' This ki a case really unjustifiable componndins ; bewsose it not only saves no time or trouble, but con. fers a title on Sirs. Johnson which idie has no right to. Pat these little instances aro trmes indeed, contrasted with the ponderous and dismid German system of piline jumbled compounds together. I wish to submit the following local item, from a Mannheim jour- nal, by was of illustration : , 'In the daybeforeyesterdayshortlyafter. eleveno'clock Nid^t, the inthistownstandiug- tavern called "The Wagoner" was down- burnt When the fire to the onthedown- buminghouaeresting Stork's NestrcAched, flew the parent Storks away. Bat when the bytheraging, firesnrronnded Nest itself caught Fire, straightway plunged tiie qnickreturning Mother-Stork in the flamea and died, usr wings over her young ones outspread.' Even the cumbersome German construction is not able to take the pathos oat of that picture— indeed it •somehow seems t» strengthen it. This ittim is dated away back yonder months ago. I oonld have used it sooner, but I was waiting to hear from the Father- Stork. I am still waiting. 'Also!' fifl have not shown that tho German is a difficult langnaga, I have at least intended to do it I have heard of «n American student who was asked how he was getting along with his German, and wkc answered promptly : 'I am not getting along at all. I have worked at it hr\d for threu level months, and all I have gco to show for it is one solitary German phraae — ''Zvrei glas,"' (two glasses of beer). He paused a moment, reflectively, then added withfeelinff, * But I've got that solid I ' And if I have not also showu that German is a harassing and infuri- a^n I study, my execution has beea at fault, and not my intent I heard lately of a worn and sorely tried American student who usel to fly to aoert&In German word for relief when he could bear up nnder aggra- vr.tioDs no longer— the whole word in the language whose sounc^ ^■^tm sweet and pre* cious to hia ear and healing to his lacerated spirit ^his was the we^ T>amit. It was ool ' ' .ound that helpec^ him, not ihe nuituv ^ ; »<:dso, at Ia«% rrhen belearued that tt»e emj^hasi:! v. as aoi ou the liiau * It merely laeani. In its gexieral senix:;, "horih will.." "*":r 168 A TRAMP ABROAD. fyllaUe, i^ only itay and rapport wm gon«b •ud he fftdftd awfty ftod died. I think that • daioription of any load, •iirringt tnnraltooni opuode matt \f Umw Oaraun than in Bnguah. Oar dMnriptiTO word* ofthia oharaoter havo raoh a aeap, ftrong, resonant wand, while thoir Oerman «qaivalenta do M«m lo thin and mild and energy leM. Boom, bnrst, oraih,roar, ttorm, belloK, Uow, thander, explosion ; howl, ory, sheat, yell, groan { battle, helL These are magoifioent words ; they have a force and magnitnde of soond befitting the things wbioh they describe. Bat their German exairalents wonld be ever so nice to sing the children to sleep with, or else ifiy awe-inspiring ears were made for display and not for sapArior usefolness in analysiocc soaods. Woald anv man %«ant to die in a battle which was oafled by so tame a term as a Sohlaoht ? Or would not a oonsnmptive feel too maoh baadleJ up, who was about to go out, in a shirt collar nad a seal ring, into a storm which the bird* a mg word Gewitter was employed to de* faoribe ? And obaervo the strongest of the (..iveral German equivuleuta for uzplosion — Ausbauob. Our word toothbrush is more powerful than that. It seems to me tbnt tiie Gent. i oould du yvorse than import it iuto their i .uguage to desonbo i ar icularly tremendous explosions with. Thu Gi>rman word for hell— boUe -sounds more like h«lly than anything else ; therefore, how neces- sarily ol ippjr, frivolous and uuimpreMive it la. If a man were told in German to go cliere, C(.ald he riite to the dignity of feeling insulted? Having now pointed out, in detail, the beveral vioes of this language, I now come to the brief and pleasant task of pointing out i ts virtues. The capital iziition of the nouns, I have already mentioned. But far before this virtue stands another — that of spelling a word according to the sound of it. After one short lesson in the alphabet, the student oan tell how any German word is pronounced, without )i iviog to ask ; whereas in our language if n j'ladent should inquire of us *\Vhat does \>, 0, W. spell?' we should b3 obliged lu 1 --ply, * Nobody can tell what it spells, .when \ on seL it oflf by itself— you can only tell by iroferring to the context and finding out what aignifies— whether it is u thing to shoot av- lows with, or a nod of one's head, or the forward end of a boat.' There are some German words which nre singularly and powei'uUy efifective. For instance, those which c^'^cribe lowly, pcicu ful and afifeuticnate hon^e iit'i j tlios<« whioii deal with love, in any Aid all fo.-;:i.\ (;o:n mere kindly feeling and honest good will toward the passing stranger, olear np to courtship ; those which deal with oat ness, to ehcupe what wt; .vrongly fancy is a crtiftter blemish. Repetition may be bad, but surely inexactness U worse. There are people in the world who will take a great deal of trouble to point out the faults m a religion or a language, and then go blandly about their busiuess without sug- gesting any remedy. I am not that kind of a person, I have shown that the German I&n- guage needs reforming. Very well,I am ready to reform it. At least I am ready to make the proper suggestions, i^u.ih a coarse as this might be immodest in another ; but I hare devoted upwards of nine full weeks, lirst and last, to a careful and oritionl study of this tongue, and thus have acquired a cuLiiidence iu my ability to reform it which uo more anpei ticial culture could havo oou- frrred upou me. la the first place, I would leave ou*; the Dutive OaHO. It confuses the plurals ; au^'i beflidoa, nobody ever knows when he is in th . Dative Case, exce>)t he discover it by acoi- deut— and then he does not know wiien or where r 'vaa that he got into it, or how he is over going to get out of it again* The Dative Case is but an ornamental foUy ^it is bettt^r to discard it. In the next ulace, I wonld move the Verb further up to the front. You may load up < with cvisi- cio good a Verb, but I notioa that X A TRAMP ABROAD. im tood wiU ir ap to oot'door MfMOte— bird* and of ■am' 1 winter ^' i .tar«i t'.xJL iMtly whioh rarpH» OermMi r to tho the soond l«ret« thci (MtnaM ; rough tho afraid to »De. They w& That >»vo used iraph, wo il« aud 10 tor lome tea exaot* anoy is » be bad. who wiU t oat the and then •hout eug- kind of a rmaa Ijji' am ready r to make a coarse iher ; but ill weeks, oal study cquired a it which have cou- » ou*i the rals ; ao'\ ) is in th .. t by acci- wiien or ho Thirdly, I would import strong words from the Eoglish tongue — to swear with, and alio to n«e in desoribing all sorts of vigor, one things in » Tigoroua way.* Fourthlv, I would reorganiie the sezee, and distribute them aocording to the will of the Croator. Thia ai a tribute oi reapeot, if nothing else. Fifthly, I would do away with those great long oompounded words ; or require the -neakerto deliTer them in sections, with iiiterij'.isions for refreshments. To wholly do away with them would be bett, for ideas are mora easily received and digested when they oome one at a time than \.)- '.oh* iug all«enclosing King-parenthesis. I would ■ equire every individual, be he high or lov, t > unfold a plain straightforward tale, or else ooil it and sit on it and hold his p loe. Infractions of this law should be punisliable witti death. And eighthly and lastly, I would retain Zng and Ichlag, with their pendants, and discard the rest of the vocabulary. This would simplify the language. I have now named what; I regard as the * * Verdamnt,' and its variations and enlarge' niente, are words « Mob lutve plouty of mean' ing. but the snuude are so mild and inefteoiu' al that German ladles can use them without •In. German ladies who could not be induced to commit a sin by any persuasion or comnul- sion, promptly rip out one ot these harmless little words when they tear a dress or don't like the soup. It sounds about as wicked as our ' My gracious.' German ladies are oonstantlF sayinsr * Ach I Oott I' ' Mein Gott 1' ? Oct in UinunelT •Herr Gott I* 'Per Merr Jesus!' etc. J hoy think ourUdles have thesame custom, perhaps, for I onoe heard a gentle and lovely old Ger- ^man lady say to a sweet young American girl, *»The two languages are so alike— bow pleasant thatls; wesay'Aohl Gottr yoasay"Qod- most necessary and important ohangea. These are perhaps all I oould be ezp ted to name for nothiug ; but there are o' sag- gestioDH whioh I oan and will mak« m oasa my proposed application shall result in my being formally employed bv thagovemmeat in the work of raforming tha language. My pbilologioal studies have satisfied ait that a gifted persoa ought to learn English (barriog speUiBg and pronouncing), in 80 hours, French in 80 da:r*« u>d German in 80 . years. It seems numifest, then that tha latter tongue ought to bo trimmed down and repaired. If It ia to remain aa it is, it ought to be gently and revaraotly let aaida among the dead langnagsa, for only the dead bava nme to loam it. A FOUBTH 07 JXTtT OKATIOV EBT THB OiB* MAN TONOtTB, DBUVIBBD AT A BAMQVn Ot THB ANGLO-AMSBIOAN ClUB OF 8TU- DSNTB BT THB AirTHOR OV THIS BOOK. OBNTtBUBN,— Since I arrived, a month ago, in this old wonderland, this vast sarden of Germany, my English tongue has so often proved a useless piece of baggage to me, and so troublesome to carry around, in a country where they haven't the checking system for baggage, that I finally set to work, last week, and learned the German language. Also I Ea freut mioh dass dies so ist, denn es muss, in ein hauptsaohlioh de- gree, hoflioh sein, dass man auf ein occasion like this, sun. Rede in die Spraohe des Lan- dea worin he boards, aussprechen soil Dafur babe icb, aus reinische Verlengenheit— no 'Vergangenheit — no, I mean Hoflichkeit — aus reiQische Hoflichkeit babe >ich resolved to tackle this business in the German langu- age, red a meaaara of good opon all landa that Imow liberty to>d*y, and love it Hnndert Jabre Toraber, waren dia Englander and die Amerikanar Fainde ; aber neato find aie hardioben Freande, Gott aei Dank I May tbia good feUowabio endare ; may thoae bannara bare blendea in amity, ao remain } may tbey nerer any mora wave over oppoa- ing boatii, or be otainad witb Uood wbiob waa kindred, is kindred, and alwaya will be kindred, nntil a line drawn upon a map aball baaUeto aay, '*Tliia ban the anceatral blood from flowing in the Teina of the da- aoandnnt 1" LEGEND OF THE CASTLES. OALUEP TBM ' SWALLOW's NBST ' AlTD ' THB BROTHBRS,' AS OONDMNUD VBOM THB :; OAFTAIK'8 TAIJt. . In the neighbourhood of three bandred yaara ago the Swallow'a Neit and the UMgar oaatla between it and Meckaratoinacb ware owned and ooeapied by two old knighta n^ were twin brothera, and baohelon. They bad no relntirea. They were very rudb They bad foaght tbroagh the wars and retired to private life — oovered with honoarable Boara. They were hone«t. bonoarabla om* in their dealiogi, bat tba people bad glran them n ooaple m niak* namaa wbiob wore vary 8aflgeBtiTeu---Henr OiTanangbt and Harr HeartlMa. The old knighta wara ao proad of tbeae namaa that if a bargber oallad them by tboir ri|^t onoa tbey woald oorraot bim. Tba moot renowned aoboUr in Borope, at that tima^ waa tbe Uerr Dootor Frans lUik- mann, who lived in Heidalbarg. All Ger< many waa prond of tbe vanaimbla aebolar, who lived in tba aimplaat way, few great aobelara are alwaya poor. Ha waa poor, aa to money, bat very riob in bio iwaot yonng daagbtar Hildegarde and bia libnury. Ha bad bean all Ua life ooUeoting bia Ubrary, book b^ book, and be loved it aa a miaar lovea bia boarded gold. Ha aald tba two stringa of bia heart were rooted, the one in hia daaj^tor, tba other in bia booka ; and that if either were aevered be moat die. Now, in an evil boar, hoping to win a mar- riage portion for hia ohild, uia aimple old man bad entraated Ua small aavinga to » abarper to be ventured in * glittering apeoo* Ution. Bat that was not toe worn of it t ba signed a paper, — witboat reading il Thai ia tba way witb poeta and aobolara, they always sign without reading. Tbia ounning paper made bim raaponaible for beapa of things. Tha result was, that ona night be found bimaelf in debt to tbe sharper eight thouoand pieoea of gold t — an amount so prodigious wat it aimply stupifled bim to think of it. It was n night of woe in that bonaa. ~ I must part with my library- -I have no- beartatring,' thing also. So pariahaa ona said tha old man. * What will it bring, fatbarf aaked tha girL 'Nothing I It is worth seven hundred Eieoes of gold ; but by auotion it will go for ttle or nothing.' 'Then yon will have parted with half of your heart and the joy of your life to no purpoaa, sinoa so mighty n burden of debt will remain behind.' ' There is no help for it, my ohild. Our darlings must pass under tbe hammer. We must pay what we oan.' ' My father I hnve a feeling that tbe dear Virgin will oome to our help. Let us not lose heart.' 'Sheoannot devise a miraole that wili turn nothing into eight thousand gold pieoea and less help will bring us little peace.' 'She oan do even greater things, my father. She will aavo ua, I know she will.' Towards morning, while the old man sat exhausted and asleep in his chair where ho had been sitting before his books as one who baft Bi«k. idd Hut if . . •• Rdk. M 0«r. Mholar, [poor, M He Ubrary. la miaar tlMtwo eoo« im ks ; and It die «h« A TUAMP ABttOAD. 171 waloliM by hia >■><■'»> r»A AiA and printa the fcatunaoD hia tii<«'-' nd aald, "Oo to tba Harr Qivanaugbt, go to tba Hart Heartlaaa, aak tbcm to ooma and bid." Tbera. did I not tall yon aba would aava oa, tba tbrioa biaaaad Virftin i' Sad aa tba old man waa, ba waa obliged to laaKh. * Tbou migbtaat aa wall appeal to tba rooka ftbeir oaatlaa atand upon aa to tba bardar onaa tbat lie in tboae men'a breaata, mv obild. Tiiay bid on booka writ in tbe learned tonguea I— tbey can aoaroe read tbeir own.' But Hildegarde'a faitb waa in no wiae abaken. Brii(bt and early abe waa on bar wtiy up tbe Neokar road, aa jovona as a bird. Meantime Herr Oivenaugbt and Herr Heartleaa were baving an early breakfaat in tbe former'a oaatle — tbe Sparrow'a Neat— and flavoaring it witb a quarrel; for altbougb tbeae twiua bore a love for eaob otber wbiob almoat amounted to worabip, tbore waa one aubjeot upon wbiob tbey oould not touch witbout giving eaob otber bard namea — and yet it waa tbe aubjeot wliiob tbey ofteneat toucbed upon. ' I tell you/ aaid Qivenaugbt, * you will begttar youraelf yet, witb your inaane aquan* deringa of money upon wbat you obooae to oonaider poor and wortby objeota. All tbeae yeara I bave implored you to atop tbia fooliab ouatom and buaband your meanii, but all in vain. You are alwaya lying to me about tbeae aeoret benevolenoea, but you never have managed to deceive me yet Every time a poor devil baa been aet upon bia feet I bave detected your hand in it— incorrigi- UeaM r * Every time you didn't aet him on bia feet youraeU, you mean. Where I give one unfortunate a little private lift, yon do tbe aame for a dosen. The idea of your awelUng around the country and petting jrouraeU with the nickname of Givenauaht — intoler* •Ue humbug I Before I would be anch a fiaadaatbat I would out my right band oft Your life ia a goon, I have tried you from beggaring riotona cbaritiea — now time I waab my handa of tbe oonaequencea. A maundering old fool 1 that'a what yoa are." « And you a blethering old idiot 1" roared Qivenaugbt, apringing up. * I won't atay io the preaenoe of a man But aave oontinnal lie. my beat to yourself by your for tbe thouaandth who baa no more delicacy than to call me auob namea. Mannerleaa awine !' So aayinj, Herr Heartleaa aprang up, in • paaiioa. Bat acme lucky accident interven* ed, aa naual, to change the aubjeot, and the daily quarrel ended in the oaatomary dally loving reconciliation. Tbe grey-headed old ec* centricitiea parted, and Herr Heartleaa walk- ed off to bia own oaatle. Half an hour later, Hildenrde waa atand* ing in tbe preaeuce of Herr Givenaught He beard her atory, and aaid — ' 1 am aorry for you. my child, but I am very poor, I care nothing for bookiah mb- biab, I ahall not be there. '^ He aaid the hard worda kindly, but they nearly broke poor Hildegarde'a heart, never- tbeleaa. When abe waa gone tbe old heart- broken banker muttered, rubbing hia handa — ' It waa a good atroke. I have aaved my brother'a pocket thia time, in apite of him. Nothing eUe would bave prevent- ed hia mahmg off to reaone the old Bcholar, the pride of Germany, from hia troublea. The poor child won't venture near him after tbe rebuff abe baa received from bia brother theOivenaogbt." But be wa$ miataken. The Virgin had commanded, and Hildegarde would obey. She went to Herr Heartleaa and told her atory. But be aaid ooldl v — * I am very poor, my child, and booka are nothing to me. I wiah you well, but I ahall not oome.' When Hildegarde waa gone, he chuckled and aaid— ' How my fool of a aoft-baaded aoft-beart* ed brother would rase if he knew how cun- ningly I have aaved hia nooket How he would bave flown to the old man'a reaone I But tbe sirl won't venture near him now.* When Hildcffarde reached home,ber father aaked her bow abe had proapered. She aaid — * Tbe Virgin baa promiaed, and abe will keep her word,but not in tbe way I tbonghl She kaowa her own waya, and they ara beat.' The old man patted her on the head, and amiled a doubting amile, but he boaoared her for her brave uuth, nevertbeleaa. II. Next day the people aaaembled in Uw great ball of tbe Bitter tavern, to witaeae- tbe auctioa — for the proprietor bad aaid the treaaure of Germauy^i moat hoaoared aoa ahould be bartered away ia ao meaner place. Hildegaide aad her father eat clcae to the- booka, nleat aad aorrowfol, aadboldiag each I ' I I Ifk ¥ 172 ' ATttAMP ABRoXd. Vis? '=1)''?J<»:*. ■.<;;-: othet's handi. There wm » great crowd of people present. The biddiog began— ' flow mnoh for thU preoiona library, Jut as it stands, aU complete ? ' oaUetl the ano* tioneer. 'Fifty pieces of gold I' * A. hundred \' . lo^^tk '■■ *Two hundred I ., ; V,!^!' 'Fourl' * Five hundred I ' • Five twenty-five I • A brief pauBOi 'Five forty!' A longer pause, while the auctioneer re* doubled his persuasions. ' Five forty-five 1 " A heavy drag— the auctioneer persuaded, pleaded, implored — ^it was useless, every* body remained silent — •Well, then,— going, going— one— two— ' ' Fivo hundred and fifty I ' This in a shrill voice, from a bent old man, all bung with raga, and with a green i>atoh over his left eye. Everybody in his vicinity turned and gazed at him. It was Qivenaught in disguise. He was using a disguised voice, too. ' ^>ood 1 ' cried the auctioneer. * Going, goi^ — one — two — * ' Five hundred and sixty 1 ' This, in a deep, harsh voice, from the midat of the crowd* at the other end of the room. The people near by turned, and saw an old man, in a strange costume, supporting himself on crutches. He wore a long white beard, and blue spectaolea. It was Herr Heartless, in disguise, and using a disguised ▼oioe. 'Good ngain ! Going, going— one— * * Six hundred I ' Sensation. The crowd raised a o^oer, and ■ome one cried out, ' Go it, Green-patch r This ticklea the audience ami a score of voices shouted, 'Go t, Greeu-patch 1 ' ' Going— going— going — third and last call —one, two ' ,_ , _ . . ,,. . • Seven hundred 1 • ' ' ;' • Huzzah I — well done, Crutches I ' cr d a • voice. The crowd took it up, and sV '■ted altogether, * Well done, Crutches I ' Splendid, gentlemen I you are doing mag- uficeutly. Going, going—' ' A thousand I ^' ' Three cheers for Green-patoh I Up and at him, Crutches I * ,^/^ •Go.- It —going — ' •' ■ ■ 'Tw.> -'ousandl' ' '• , And while the people dheered And shout* ed, ' Crutches ' muttered, ' Who can thif devil be, that is.fighting so to get these use* less books T— but no matter, he shan't hara them. The pride of Germany shall hava his books if it beggan me to buy them for him.' * ' Going— going— going— * . ,^ Three thousand ! ' '^^i •Come, everybody — give a router isr Green-patoh 1 ' And while they did it, patch' muttered, 'This IS plunly aiunatic ; bat the old loholr^i* ••i\isll have hiB books, neverthelei% kuongjb i ■r.- • Going — ^going — ' 'Four thousand I' •Huzza 1' ' Five thousand 1' ' Huzza r ' Six thousand I ' 'Huzza!' '' ' Seven thousand ! * , 'Huzza!' ' Eight thousand t ' < We are saved. Father I told yon tlM Holy Virgin would koep her word I ' • Blessed be her sacred name !' said the old scholar, with emotion. The crowd roared, • Huzza, huzza, huzza— at him again, Green- patch 1 ' 'Going — going — ' '- ' " • Ten thousand ! ' As Givenaught shouted this, his excitoment w«b bo great that he forgot himself and used his natural voice. His brother recognized it, and muttered, under cover of the storm of cheers — • Aha, you are there, are you, besotted old fool? Take the books, I know what you'll do with them 1' So saying, he slipped out of the place, and the auction was at an end. Givenaught shouldered his way to Hildegarde, whispered a word in her ear, and then he, also, van* ished. The old scholar and his daughter embraced, and the former said, • Truly, the Holy Mother has done more than she pro- mised, child, for she has siven you a smen- did marriase portion — think of it, two thou- sand pieces'of gold f ' And more still,' cried Hildegarde, • for she has given you back your books ; the stranger whispered me that he would none of them— "the honoured son of Germany must keep them," so he said. I would I might have auked his name and kissed hia hand and begged his blessing ; but he was Our Lady's angel, and it is not meet that we of earth should venture speech with them that dwell above.' 4, 'O ..%.T iiJ 't luv« Yukf htm for if«r far ongji. iiy •■ k -. :>' lii >. , r ■-)-„' (5 , yon fh0 word I' id the old d roarfd, in. Green* ht ahoated at thftt he iral voice, mattered, i — , besotted now what the place, ilivenanght , whispered also, van* 8 danghter Truly, the n she pro* DU a splen- , two then* garde, ' for looks ; the irould none Germany I would 1 kissed his lut he was 9et that we with them t.,;..i> ■ i>i 'r.7 A TBAMP ABROAD. 175 V.-GKBMAN JOURNALS. The daily jonmala of Hamburg, Frankfort, Baden, Munioh and Angsburs are all oon> ■traoted on the aame general plan. I ipeak of these because I am more familiar with them thim any other German papers. They contain BO * editorials ' whatever ; no ' personals,' — and this is rather a merit than a demerit, per- haps ; no fnnny paragraph column ; nc pouoe court reports ; no reports of proceed* ings of the higher oonrts ; no information abont prise fights or other dog fights, horse races, walking matches, yachting contests, rifle matches, or other snorting matters of any sort ; no reports of bananet-speeches ; no department of curious odds ana ends of floatiog fact and sossip ; no 'rumours ' abont anythins or anvoody ; no prognostications or pro^ecies aDout anything or anybody ; no lists of patents g^ranted or sought, or any reference to such things ; no abuse of public officials, big or little, or complaints against them, or praises of them , no rekeions column Saturdays, no rehash of cold ser- mons Mondays; no 'weather indications;' no * local item ' unveilings of what is liap* penino, in town — nothing of a local nature, indeed, is mentioned, beyond the movements of some prince or the proposed meeting of some deUberative body. After so deliberate a list of ^rhat one can't find in a German daily, thd question may well be asked, 'What can be found in it f It is easily answered :— A child's hand- fnlof telegrams, mainly about European national and international movements ; letter>oorrespondenoe about the same things, market reports. There ^ou have it. That is what a German daily is made of. A Ger- man daily is the slowest i*nd saddest and dreariest of the inventions of man. Our own didlies infuriate the reader, pretty often ; small pica lines, and is lighted up with eight !>ica headlines. The bill of fare is as fol- oirs : First, under a pica headline, to en- force attention and respect, is a four line ser- mon urging mankind to remember that al> though they are pilgrims her below, they ar6 yet heirs of heaven : and cnat ' When they depart from earth they soar to heaven.' Perhaps a four-line sermon in a Saturday paper is the sufficient German equiralent of the eight or ten columns of sermons which the New Yorkers get in their Monday morn- ing papers. The latest news (two days old), follows the four-line sermon, under the pic« head-line " Telegrams,"— these are " tele- graphed " with a pair of scissors out of the " Aupbnrger Zeitung " of the day before. Those telegrams consist of fourteen and two- thirds lines from Berlioj fifteen lines from Vienna, and two and fi76*eighths lines from Calcutta. Thirty-three small pica line* of telegraphic news in a daily journal in a King's Capital of 170,000 inhabitants, is screiy not an over-dose. Next, we have the pica heading, " News of the Day," under wMoh the foUowiag facts are set forth : !..rinoe Leopold is going on a visis to Vienna, six Junes ; Prince Amnlph is coming back from Russia, two lines ; the Landtag will meet at 10 o'clock in the morning and consider an election law, three lines and one word over ; a city gc /emment item, five and one-half lines ; i>rices of tickets to the proposed grand Charity Ball, twenty-three lines -for this one itc m occupies almost one- fourth of the entire first page ; there is to be a wonderful Wasner conoeHi in Frankfurst- on-the-Main, witn an orchestra of one hun- dred and sight instruments, seven and one- half lines. That concludes the first page. Eighty-five lines, altogether, on that page, including three head-lines. About fifty of those lines, as one perceives, deal with local matters ; so the reporters are over- worked. Exactly one-half of the second page is oc- cupied with an opera-criticism, fifty-three lines (three of them being head lines) and 'Death Notices,' ten lines. 'The other half of the second page is made up of two paragraphs under the head of ' Miscellaneous News.' One of these para- graph tells about a quarrel between tha Czar of Russia and his eldest son, twenty* one and a half lines ; and the other tells ns about the atrocious destruction of a peasant child by its parents, forty lines, or one fifth of the total of the reading matter contained in the paper. Consider what a fifth part of the reading matter of an American daily pnper issued in a city of 170,000 inhabitants amounts to I Think what a mass it is. Would any oj» suppose I could so snugly tuck away such a mass in a chapter of this book that it would be difficult to find it again if the leader lost his place? Surely not. I will translate that child-murder word for word, to givo the reader a realizing sense of what a fifth part of the reading matter of a Munich daily ac* tually is when it comes under measurement of the eye: ' From Oberkreuzberg, ' Januaiy 21, the " Donan Zeitung " receives a long account of a crime, which we shorten as follows : In Rtmetuach, a village near Eppeosohlag, lived a young married couple with two chil- dren, one of which, a boy aged five, was born three years before the marriage. For this reason, and also because a relative at Iggensbaoh had bequeath M400 (flOO) to ^I^B^PIPWR'S y »-.' » a ' " l-.n Wl Jl I W»i 'Hilji ft4 A TRAMP ABROAD. I ft tlM'bo7,tiieheartlenfatherooiMideredhiiii in tha way ; m the nnnatarml jparents dctsnnincd to norifioe him m the oradwt powible nuumer. They proceeded to ■lervehim slowly to death, meantinie fright- fully maltreatiiig him — aetheiillme people now make known, when it ia too lateu The boy was ahutvp in a hole^ and when people paMed by he cried, awT implored them to give him bread. Hii long continaed tortores and depriyationa deatr^ed him at last, on the third of January. The sadden {tic) death of the child created aoapioion, the more so aa the body was immediatelydothed and laid npon the bier. Therefore, the coroner gave notice, and an inquest was held on the 6th. What a pitiful apectacle was dieoloaed then I The body waa a complete skeleton. The stomach and intestines were utterly empty, they contained nothing what* ever. The flesh on the corpse was not aa thick aa the back of a knife, and incisions in it brought not a drop of blood. There was not a piece of sound skin the size of a dollar on the whole body ; wounda, scan, bruises, discoloured extravasated blood, everywhere —even on the soles of the feet there were wounda. The cruel parents asserted that the bov had been so bad that they had been obliged to use severe pnsishments, and thi|| he finally fell over a bench and broka his neck. However, they were arrested two weeks after the inquest and put in the prison at Deggendorf.' Yes, they were arrested 'two weeks after the inqueat.' What a home* round that has. The kind of police briskness rather more reminds me ot my native land than German journalism. I think a German daily journal doesn't do any good to speak of, but at the same time it doesn't do any harm. That is a very large merit and should not be lightly weighed, nor lightly thought of. The German hnmoroua papers are beauti- fully printed, upon fine paper, and the illus- trations are finely drawn, finely engraved, and are not vapidly funny, but dehciously so. So also, generally spealunff, are the two or three terse sentences which accompany the pictures. I remember one of these pio* tures; an almost dilapidated tramp is ruefuUy contemplating some coins -whiim lie in his open palm ; he says, ' Well, begging is get- ting played out. Only about 6 marks (f 1 26) for the whole day ; many an official makes more I ' And I <»11 to mind a picture of a commercial traveller who is about to unroll his samples : Merchant (pettishly)— No, don't. I don't i^ant to buy anvtjUng I Drummer — If jVfe please, I was only going to show you — Merchant — ^But I don't wish to see them 1 Drummer— {after a pause, pleadingly)— But do Tou mmd letting me look at them I— I haven t seen them for three weeks I THE END. ;>;i ^>- u, ,... * - ' . .,1 [' .=1 I \ -v'H- • ( ? -■■^■.:-X ,- • ' 1 ^ -..;.l V .K>^.' - ^ ■ ' .' ' ' -*' i'-'-; 'fi- ■ ' ' ' '. *'^-'' «; ■•:< '*,■-' ■ ^ ' ' ■- -r . .;! ■.•C:^"''*''" ' ^* - *'•#' 1 1 /■ •/„■ ■ ,.y'S.'yi > ■; .. .*^ •'t.fc'j**'-!, T-j^'W 5* weeks |] home* polioe 01 my I'tdo I time it biyUrge lied, nor beanti' leilliu- ignved, Blidoiuly the two ompany pic- I mefoUy lie inhia DB i» get- rkB(|125) a1 makes otare of a tomuroU :. I don't only geibg Me them I iadingly)— at them i— iki ! . -^w^; :;.'■ -r A ^■ii.i,. •.^l■ ,/..-v- ■J*>*> • ■•^ . » . '■f'l : 4 /