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Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, ii est fiimA A partir de Tangle supArleur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes sulvants iiiustrent la mAthode. y errata Bd to nt ne pelure, iQon A 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 l*. CAFTAJH' rORTtOCK >»/ii 1789. and moil dutiful Servant, NATHANIEL PORTLOCK. II Dirc • . i^^^. CHAP. IX» Variety of Refrelhments procured — ^Vifited by the King — Prefents given and received — Two Natives from Woahoo introduced to Ta-aao — Deplorable Sittiation of an old Warrior— Ceremony of the Tabooara — Excurfion on Shore, accompanied- by Abbenooe — A remarkably large Shark caught— Grateful Behaviour of Nee- heowhooa — ^Arrival at Oneehow— Obliged to cut the Cables in a ■ Cale of Wind — Leave three Invalids on Shore — Anchor again « in Yam Bay — The. Sick return on board— Leave Oneehow and arrive at Atoui — Remarkiable Curcumftance of a Woman with aPuppy.nt herBreaft — Chiefs cxercife with Spears— Houfe built for Captain Portlock- Departure from Atoui — Arrivar at Oneehow— Recover the King George's Anchors — Attempt made on the Life of an- Atoui Chief— Final Departure from the Sandwich Iflands, . 174 CH A P. I 1^' 1 i CONTENTS. C H A P. X. P4flagc from the Sandwich Iflands> to .tlie Cioaft of Ametica—GcoU . Effeds of Beer made from the Sweet Root — Arrival at Montague ,. Ifland — Anchor in Hanning's Bay — Boats feat on a trading Expe- - dition — Meet with a Ve0e) from Bengal — Their diftrefling Situation — Refrefliments fent to the Nootka— Plan of future Proceedings— Vifited by a powerful 1 ribe of Indians — Their Propenfity to Theft- Departure from Montague Ifland — The Ships feparate — Arrival of the King George in Hinchinbrooke Cove, - - Page 2oi • C H A P. XI. Indians vifit the Ship with Sea-otter Skins — Boats fent on a trading Expedition— Plundered by the Indians — Return of the Boats — Ar- rival of the Nootka — Affift .in getting her ready for Sea — Long- boat fent to Cook's River — Departure of the Nootka — -Long-boat's Return — Sent a fecond Time— Vifited by different Tribes of fn- . dians — Various Employments carried on — Abundance of Salmon, Herrings, and Crabs — Arrival of the Long-boat — Departure from Port Etches, - - - . r 226 .^ • 1 f> CHAP. xri. Run along the Coaft of Montague Ifland — Short Account of Prince William's Sound — Defcription of the Inhabitants— Their Perfons — Manners — Drefs— Difeafes — Ornaments— Food — Cookery— Situation for a. Settlement — Produce — Weapons— ^Hunting Implements — Spe- cimen of the Language— Proceed along the Coaft — Anchor in Port- lock's H^our — Intercourfe with the Natives — Long-boat fent on ^ * a tradicpfexpedition— Vifited by a, dillant Tribe of Indians, 244 ' Tm^w .^^*^ AP. xm. A new Party of TradttaJfrom the Eaft — Under the Necefllty of ex- v;hanging |^".(«^^*Pait of the Chip's Company go on Shore "fs: ■ Meet .•^r-^ ■.P' CONTENTS. Meet with Indian Tea — ^Vifit th?, Natives at their own Refidence— Their Habitations and Manner of Living defcribed— An Account ■ pf tKe Spaniards baring -been on the Coaft, and left the Smali-pox ->-The Long>boat rettirns from aa Expedition to the Eailward — Esanuoe the Sound— AnotJier Vifit fcom our North Weft Friends — Ceremonifls to be oWcrved before commencing Trade— Jofq>h Woodcock font as mi Hoftage— Three Days in the Country'-An Account of the Natives — Their Difpofition, Ornaments, Drefs, and Language — Obfervations on the Advantages likely to accrue from a Settlement on the Coaft — Some Thoughts of an Expedition by Land — ^Leave Pdrtlock's Harbour, - - Page 268 CHAP. XIV. Paflage from the Coaft to Sandwich Iflands — ^Tranfadions there — Let- ters received from Captain Dixon and Mr. Rofs — Some Particulars received from Taa-boo-a-raa-ne refpeding the Death of Captain Cook — ^Defcription of the White Tern — Cruelty of the Chiefs to their Inferiors — Obfervations on a Trade to Potany Bay from thefe Iflands — Final Departure from them-^Paflage to China — Arrival there, - - - - 297 CHAP. XV. An Account of a Court of Enquiry held at the Requeft of Captain Greer of the Belvidere, on his People who mutinied in his Ab- fence — The Court's Determination thereon — Punifhment inflidled on the Mutineers — ^Account of meeting with Tyaana at China — His Behaviour there — Attention paid him — Returns to his own Country with a valuable Cargo — ^A (hort Defcriptiaa of his Perfon, - -. - - 327 .^r?«A> ^ c: H A W '%. ■..-yt. ■ , -^ -J ,■ "*^«?**i. '%>.. jdl CONTENTS. CHAP, XVI. Leave Macao*— Proceed through the Stra!t$ of Banca and Sunda— Anchor at North Ifland — ^The VefleU part Company— Arrival at Saint Helena— -Departure from thence— Five of the People nearly poifoned by eating Fiih— Arrival in England— A Lift of Plants, Birds, and Foflils feen in Cook's River, •• • Page 364. Sf: ^■^ '1 il t ('■ « A VOY. ^^- ;■*'; V*'^/^;'. v, ^;'^^' ■ V'-il. ' "' ''■".'■.■"^tf%"i(V"" ■*'^-*.'*''' V"'' -■■•^■r'-^-' ■ < --4i »irt^yht .*-%B«a^»^i, ^ 5c - ..*W«#rr-.Tv-*^«iM)i»^Jsr ■« .:*^-'-*^»^9P<^«fc-^ ^*:,: ,--eir>ifc''«4»*»*.-'»%'- ' 58 ♦s % i-30 Si V O Y A G E TO THE H/i -30 'North Wed Coaft of America. I ,?(> ^-i CHAP. I. Account of the different Perfons who firjl carried on the Fur Trade. — Tlie King George s Sound Company ejia- hlijhed. — Two Veffels purchafed, — The Complements of their CrewSy and Names of the Officers. — Paffage from Gravefend to P or tfmouth,— -Employments there, — De'- parture from P or tfmouth, "-In Danger near the Gafkets, —Arrival at Guernfey, THOUGH thaEt illuftrious navigator, Captain Cook, chap. did not, with all his ildll and all his perfeverance, obtain the great objcA of his voyage to the weftern cc^ ©f America, the difcovery of a practicable pafTage from the North Pacific to the North Atlantic Ocean, he fur- nifhed philofophy with many additional fafts, and he opened to commerce feveral extenfive profpe£ts. The B voyages J fndge . ^ u. . fi- . JtRl^^C- .llH J.'.U.tlll.ltl.'n'll'* : t ' .\'i)ii« si-psi'!' So:, AiujiM ;> ? 's -. .AHf iUtf^i Afount SU^Iins .Vii,i« si-psi'!' So: .Ill-/ll3/li ? «v. Admiraltv Cn/niT o/'(/>r Xoimi HI: ST Coast (.1' A M E R I C A /i>/V// f/ir TlUCKSoft/,, KING GEORGE, \: QlEKN ClLlRLOTTt: . in 1786^- 17«7. XATIIAXIEL POJtTL O CK, Lieu! «^/'His Maiellv's Royal Navv. ''-^^ Xi^ 7'/iij Mitrk i/i'/ii'fi:' n<' i^rotim/. Hftv Port MnlgT.ivo 'i'h^ Sf'N/hfifi,/.'- itri' in fofhi'/n.i . "\ jn^^rK" Cn^« ,.\»< .\>oi»* -*l .if> L I-/.-, [ C. I'jiir Wi-ulher JO 58 4.H / «,^oV.r \s»>' V f\^' 1 If rmogT I "nr, »ni/ liny .» /■^ //.../« ..« ;.« "J. id I'li/i/ij/m/ (I.! l/ir ,1(1 (Jirer/s hi/ J. Stoi/t/Mf k'.C.ditiiMi/ti/ Mm/ li'/JHO . } : .fmiH.ff .'■ ^^ i 1 — ' r • ; : I 1 1 I ! ., "^ "■ — '^^^ , ■'.,,_ » .V,i."< .»/>.'./ '.''*i:; !-, J •• i \ .'' ^ / 1 ---.^^ .■ ■■<:,' ■ ■ -' 1 1 ! .: ^\ ^-v ^- -^ ^ " *'-"■ r,. ■ - ;- .Uu/H'il .*! "•v^^^ ;. - ' V ■ > \ ^\ ' ' - '■ ■ ''■':'•■. '■;■'■ -, ' ' « ^ ;- * . ' ' *" . ^ 1 V V, *. j^.-^. ' <■ / ^ J ' - i : ^f ; /; t \ ■/ 5 ». ' . J ; '■ , : ' f--^ : . , - ■ :; 5 '. -V %: > > . • ■ •■■ .*• ■ . .,-■!■ • ■""■"t- ■ ', i - - ' / * ■ ■y , ' ^ • • • - ^—--'4. :K • ':- ,-■. « >: b' /.i' 11 6-" '-' ,1, i- 14 o 5 ■u JO 15 14 \ "—t-r-" .id IS 14 3° m' 14 2 |111|_J 4S ,1 ' '■'■ 14 1" •'•'' jj IS 1-1 PiMulif(i ■ i i • S? Si !«i. H 1 I is 51 'r ■■r. A VOYAGE. TO THE voyages of the prefcnt reign, as they were profecuted with views the moft diflnterefted) were expofed to the world without referve. And every nation and every individual had thus an opportunity or forming new defigiw, either for the cultivarion of fcience, Or for the advantage of traffic If Great Britain owe fomething to France for her dif- roveries in former times, the French are much indebtedt • in the prefent,. to thtf Brkiik mariners fer kying open the whole globe to human eyes and to human induftry. The French king, with a noble emulation, feems to have fent out feveral officers" With fliitable accommodations, to fol- low the trads of the fucceffive voyages which had been fo happily atchieved under his Majeijly's aufpices ; though an Englilh feaman may be allowed to fay, that the French navigators failed in their wake at a great diftance aftern. No fooner were the voyages of Cook, of Clerk, of Gore, and of King accompliihed, and their narratives publiihed, than a new expedition was, Jn 1785, cifpatched from France, under the condud: of Meflrs. Peyroufe and De Langle, in order to glean on this ample field what the misfor- tune of Cook had left unattained. As early indeed as 1781, a well-known individual, Mr, Bc^ts, attempted an adventure to the North Pacific Ocean from the bottom of the Adriatic, under the emperor's flkg; but this feeble effort of an imprudent man failed prematurely, owing to caufes which have not yet been fufficiently explained. The projed of Bolts ap- pears to have been early adopted by the Britifli fubje^is who are fettled in Afia, and who (land high in an adwe 5 ^ age NORTH WEST COAST Q^ AMEi TCA. age for knowledge and for enterprifc. T\ ' were j i*ii- ^ ", r3ly ftruck with the fuggcftion of captain * >ook, wiiat a gainful trade might be carried on from America to China for furs. And a brig of fixty tons, with twenty men, under the command or James Hanna^ was, in purfuit of this flattering objeft, dii^atched from the river of Canton in April 1785 ; and after coafting Northward, and tra- verfing the Southern extremity of Japan, this brig arrived in the fubfequent Auguft at Nootka Sounds the American mart for peltry. Whatever may have been the fuccefs of Hanna in 1785, he performed, in a larger vcflel, a iimilar voyage in 1786. In this year, the merchants of Bombay font two veflels under the dire ,t \* H ^. 4 AVOYAGETOTHE ^ "i/ '■ Iiidi^s on the borders of Nootka Sound, who had fo far advanced from their favage ftatcas to refufe to fell to Mr. Strange, for any price, the peltry which they had already engaged to Mr. Hanna, thele cnterprifes have afcertained this exhilarating truth to mankind, that civilization and morals mud for ever accompany each other. In the effluxion of ages, periods often arife, when mankind, by a confentaneous (pirit, purfue with ardour analogous enterpriies. At the (ame epoch Columbus and Gama were employed, the one in difcovering the lands in the Weft, the other in exploring the regions of the Eaft. In the prefent times the Britifh, the French, and the Spaniards, have, at the fame moment, bufied themfelves in fearching every coaft and every creek, with the glorious purpofe of benefiting the human race, by adding to their happinefs. While thofe adventures were thus performed from theEaftern extremities of Afia to the Weftem fhores of America, private perfons undertook a mtore arduous voyage of a like kind from England. It was in May 1785, that Richard Cadman Etches and other traders entered into a commercial partnerfhip, under the title of 7^^ King George s Sound Company^ for carrying on a fur trade from the Weftern Coaft of America to China. For this purpofe tliey obtained a licenfe from the South Sea Company, who, without carrying on any traffic themfelves, ftand in the mercantile way of more adventurous merchants. They procured alfo a fimilar licenfe from the Eaft India Company, who at the fame time engaged to give them a freight of Teas from Canton. This enterprife^of The King George's Sound Company alone evinces what Englifti copartner- ftiips ar [r. ed id en ur nd in ft. he res »us eir ed of ge lat > a \es he >fe lO, he ey oi /i :r- tps NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. (hips and Englifli capitals could undertake and execute, were they leS oppoled by prejudice and reftrained by monopolies. In order to execute this deiign, 77)6 King George s Sound Company purchafed a (hip of 320 tons, and a fnow of 200 tons ; rhaving thus a fize and burden which captain Cook, after adequate trials, recommended as the fitteft for diftant employments ; and which, owing to the merchants experience, England happily enjoys in the greateft numbers. Thefe veffels were immediately put into dock, in order that they might be completely fitted for fo long a voyage. With all the flcill and diligence of the (hipwrights of the Thames, it was not, however, till the 8th of July, that thefe veffels were moored at Dept- ford, for the convenience of fitting their rigging, engaging feamen, and taking on board fuch ftores and other ne- ceffaries as were judged needful for a voyage of fuch length and variety. Tiie beft provifions were purcliafed, as being the cheapeft in the end ; and great attention was ufed in providing thofe articles which were thought moft likely to preferve the health of the crews, by adding to their comforts. In the mean time the owners appointed me commander of the larger veflel, and of the expedition; and George Dixon of the fmaller : both of us having accompanied captain pook in his laft voyage into the Pacific Ocean, were deemed moft proper for an adventure which required no common knowledge and experience. Other officers of competent talents were at the fame time appointed, in order that they might know each other and facilitate the outfit. I ■i »l r i A VOYAGE TO THE ^j/^ ^- outfit *. The novelty of this enteirprife attracted the no- tice of feveral perfons, who were eminent either for talents or flation, and who promoted this voyage by their counte- nance, or ftrengthened the company by their approbation^ When Sir Jofeph Banks and Lord Mulgrave, Mr. Rofe and Sir John Dick, came on board, the Secretary of the Trea- fury named the largeft veflei The King George^ and the Prelident of the Royal Society called the fmalleft The ^een Charlotte. Exclufive of the profits of trafiic, ojr the advantages of difcovery, this voyage was defined to other national objefts. Several gentlemen's fons, who had fliewn an inclination to engage in a feafering life, were put under my care, for the purpofe of being early initiated in the knowledge of a profeffion which requires length of experience, rather than fiipereminence of genius f . I at * King George. Officers and Men. Captain, - Mates, m Surgeon, - Affiftant Traders;. Boatfwain, - Carpenter, Seamen and Boys, Officers Names. Nathaniel Portloclc. f William M'Leod. A John Cbriftleman. C Samuel Hay ward. James Hoggan. (Robert Hill. 1 William Wilbye. - Archibald Brown. Robert Home. - 50 Total, 59 Queen Charlotte. Officers and Men. Captain, Mates, -i Surgeon, Affiftant Trader, Steward, Boatfwain, - Carpenter, - Seamen^ Officers NaaMSi George Dixon. John £wen Carevi'i James Turner. George White. William Lauder. William Beresford*. Henry Forrefter. John Gatenby. John Sadler. Total, 33 . Walttr Adams was Tent out by Sir John Dick. John Penetire, by Mr. Salt, deputy governor of the South Sea Company. John Gore, by Captain Gore c5 Greenwich HofpitaU David Gilmore, by Mr. Ch. Gilmore. Charles Gilmore, by Mr. S. Gilmore. William Biron, by Mr. Edward Biron. John Webb, J u »« u William Kirby,}''yM'-'"'"'"'"e- Tfaiomas Tbompfon, by Mr. Wilbye. tlie >i' ^1 iii NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the fame time engaged William Philpot Evans and Jofeph Woodcock, two of the pupils of Mr. Wales, the mafter of the mathematical fchool in Chrift's Hofpital, who were at once able to aflift in teaching the boys the rudiments of navigation, and might be ufeftilly employed in taking views of remarkable lands, and in conftniding charts of commodious harbours. Having got moft of our ftores on board, we proceeded down the river, and arrived off Gravefend on the 29th of Auguft, This evening I read articles of agreement refpedt- ing the voyage to both the fhips companies, which fome of them at firft refufed to fign ; but, after a proper ex- planation, they all cheerfully confented, except two of my own crew, whom I immediately difcharged ; as I had re- folved to engage no feaman who was not perfeftly fatisfied with the articles, and altogether contented with his (lation. The next morning the crews were paid their river- wages, with a month's advance ; and, having flood to-^ wards the Downs with a frefh South Wefterly breeze, the fliips came to an anchor the fame evening in Margate Roads. 1785. Auguft. Early in the morning of the 31ft we got under fail wedlfdef.'si. and proceeded towards the Downs, having ftill a frefh breeze at South Weft ; and at eight the fame morning we anchored off Deal in St fathom water ; the South Fore- land Point bearing South Weft, diftant five miles, and Deal Caftle North Weft, two miles diftant. We lay at Th'urM»"i. anchor during the ift September, employed in procuring frefh beef and various refrefhments. ' . - • Next • AVOYAGETOTHE c H^ A P. Nbxt morning at one o'clock we weighed anchor, and •- — J — • ftood towards the channel ; but meeting with gales at September, oncc frcfli and contrary, we were obliged to anchor under s"tulday 3. Dungenefs in the evening of the 3d, with the light-houfe bearing South Weft by Weft, about four miles diftant. A remarkable circumftance happened whilft we lay here: Charles Gilmore (one of the boys under my care), be- ing at the maintopmaft-head, attempted to come down by the topmaft backftay; but lofing his hold when he was almoft at the top, he fell diredly into the main chains ; yet he providentially received no hurt, and was not the leaft frighted with his fall. Sttnd»y 4. At three o'clock in the morning of the 4th we weighed anchor and ftood towards Spithead, where we arrived wednef. 7. at ouc o'clock on the feventh. During our ftay here, the crews were conftantly ferved with frefh beef and plenty of vegetables ; the employment* which principally engaged us were, fetting up the rigging, and replacing the water that had been expended. Several fpare anchors, and a variety of fuch other ftores were pur- chafed, which we judged would be neceflary during fo long a voyage, and with which we had not been fupplied in the Thames. Thnrf. 15. Friday i6t Every neceflary bufinefs being completed, on the 15th all hands were employed in getting the veflels ready for fea; and at feven o'clock in the morning of the 1 6th we got under fail with light variable winds. By noon we were clofe in with Dunnofe, which caufed us to ply occafionally. At NORTH .WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 9 At four in the afternoon, having a frefh gale, and very hazy ^ "j/^ ^• weather, we bore up for St. Helen's, and foon afterwards * - " g " -■* anchored in St. Helen's road, Bembridge Point bearing septembw. South Weft by Weft, three miles diftant. ''"'*" '^" Friday 16. >:'.tr) V;, v^^'yi^. ■ At fix in the morning of the 17th we weighed, and Saturday 17. made fail with moderate variable winds, the weather hazy with rain; at noon St. Catherine's Point bore North Weft, five miles diftant. From this to the igth, we had little variety ; the weather in general was thick and hazy, with "Sequent fhowers of rain. About feven b*clock in the Monday 19. evening of the 19th, the Caflcets bore Eaft North Eaft three leagues diftant ; it being then nearly calm, a rapid tide fet us ftrongly towards them ; and at one time we were not two miles diftant from thofevery dangerous rocks; however, before nine o'clock, the tide turned, and at ten we could juft difcern the lights, bearing South Weft by South, diftant about three leaguesw ■ -I'yln! " "^^ .1 f_ -j ^ At ten in tlie morning of the 20th we faw the ifland Tuefdayto; of Guernfey bearing South, at the diftance of three or fjur leagues. Our latitude at noon was 49* 39' Norths the North Eaft point of Guernley bearing South South Eaft, five miltes diftant. -— >^- -.« * .,i. ,:...- . ; ; ,/ j ..- , J- At fix o'clock we came to anchor in Giieriifcy Road with the beft bower, in 1 3 fathom water, the caftle bear- ing Weft, by South half a mile, and St. Martin's Point South South Weft, one mile diftant. We moored with the kcdge to the Eaft South Eaft. ; ; - ' ! b'o avxt tA • (i t !B . l-t) 1 I anies as is cuftonbary on bbard his Majefty's vcffels, our principal bufinefs at Guernfey was to procure a ptoper fup- ply of liquor for that purpofe ; accordingly we received oa board a confiderable quantity of fpirits, together with Port wine and cyder ; various ftores weire at the fame time taken from my veffel, and put on board the Queen Char- lotte. Thefe difFererit employments engaged the whole Saturday 14- ^^ ^^^ ^'"^^ ^^ ^^^ aftcmoon of the 24th, when all hands, were bufied in getting ready for fea.. Sunday 25. At fivc o*clock. in the morning of the 25 th a breeze fprung up at South Eaft, and foon afterwards the pilot came on board ; at eight we unmoored and got ready to heave a- heady. . when £.'785- September. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. II ;ad. Cl VSf.7(J • whenthewindfuddenly chopped round to South South Weft. ^ "„^ ^' Atnoonwe had very ftrong gales and fqually weather. About « — » one o'clock the wind veering to Weft South Weft it was my September. intention to have weighed and gone to fea, but the weather "° ** '** in £ui inftant changing its appearance, and beginning tQ blow very hard, prevented me. The ^e ftijl increajdpg, I gave orders for the topgallant-mafts to be ftruck and got down upon deck. " I likewife caufed preparation to be made for ftriking the topmaft:s, and fpUced one of the new cables to the beft bower; intending, fhould the gale con- tinue till the evening, to lower the topmafts, to have ■""'' veered to a cable and half on the beft bower, and half a cable on the fmall one. If the fhip had not held faft under thefe precautions, I fhould have run through the Little Rufiels, as I had a pilot on board ; and by having -!;he lower yards aloft, might have brought her under thecourfes, and on occaiion, the topfails clofe reefed ; but fortunately towards evening the wind got round to the Northward, though it continued blowing in fudden gufts through the night. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 26th, having a Monday 26. moderate breeze at North North Weft, we weighecTanchor and got under fail ; at noon St. Martin's Point bore North Eaft by North, diftant one mile and a half ; our obferva- tion gave 49* 20' North latitude. At four in the after- noon the pilot . left us. Salt provifions were firft ferved out to the crews on the 27th, at a pound a man a day, together with half a pound of potatoes. At noon we faw Seven liles, which bore South, eight or nine leagues, and the Ifle of Bafs South Weft by South, feven leagues diftant : our latitude was 49° 6' North, and the longitude, by lunar obfervatioi, 3" 50' 45" Weft. C 2 In 12 A VOYAGE TO THE 1785. September. Wcdnef. 38 In the evening of the 28th a heavy gale came on at South Eaft by South, attended with drizzling rain, which brought us under clofe-reefed topfails. The gale ftill in- creafing, we handed the fore and mizen top-fails : at half part eleven we hauled round, in confequence of feeing a Jight bearing about South Weft, which had much theap- peai'ance of a light-houfe, and which, if a real one, muft have been Ufhant light. We judged ourfelves to be about two leagues from it. The gale continued during the night with unceafing violence, attended with heavy rain. As we Thurfdayag. f^^v no land on the momiug of the 29th, it is probable the light which was feen the preceding evening was the ftern light of fome veffel which ftood on a contrary tack. Friday 30. ( 11; Oflober. Saturday i. L At fix o'clock in the morning of the 30th I acquainted ^captain Dixon with my intention of fleering Weft South Weft as long as the wind continued favourable. This day portable foup was ferved to the fliip's company, with half ^, a pint of peas each man three times per week. We faw a •> number of land birds, one of which was caught; I fuppofe them to have been driven off the French coaft by the heavy South Eaft gales which we recently had met with. Our latitude at noon was 47° 58' North, and the longitude 9° o' Weft. In the afternoon we founded with a line of 130 fathom, but got no bottom. During the afternoon and night we had Jight variable airs with frequent calms. At ten o'clock in the forenoon of the ift of Odlober we pafled a Danifh galliot. On this occafion our Com- pany's eniign was hoifted, in hopes ftie might take notice of us, and jiiention it on her arrival in Europe. In NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »5 S?Ii/ C H A II. P. 785. Oaober. In the afterno()n of the 2d, a heavy gale of wind came on at North Weft, which occafioned us to clolt-reef the top- fails; towards evening, the weather growing more moderate, we made and fhortened fail occafionally, in order to give "" *' '* the Queen Charlotte an opportunity of coming up with us. Indeed we have often been obliged to take this ftep fince our departure from England, as we found the King George to have greatly the advantage of her in failing, either when going large or by the wind. Towards evening on the 3d, the weather having a Monday 3. very unpromifing appearance, I kept under aneafyfail, and hauled up to Weft South Weft, for fear of being too near Cape Finiftere ; as I judged, if a ftrong breeze came on in the night, I fliould pafs its latitude; but we had a light North Wefterly breeze, the clouds looking black and lowering. During the whole of the 4th and part of the 5th we Tuefda7 4, perceived a confiderable ripling on the water which I have reafon to think was occafioned by a current, and our obfervation giving, for the laft 24 hours, 24 miles lefs wcfting than the longitude by account, and the obferved latitude giving 23 miles more than by account, I judged this current fet to the South Eaft at a confiderable rate. Our latitude at noon was 41° 48' North, and the longitude 11° 40' Weft. On the 7th, having very fine weather, the Friday 7. crew's bedding was got up to air, and every part below was thoroughly cleaned. In From this to the 1 2th nothing particular occurred : but Wednef. 12. at eight o'clock that morning we faw the iiland Porto 2 Santo i' «4 A VOYAGE TO THE Oaober. Wtdnar. It. ■ iiij j 4 '! : f ; i n ': 1 j ji * 'i ' 1 ! 1 i ^-.^ ' :%. > ^ 1 pi i ^ *5j/* ^' Santo bearing Weft by North about 20 leagues diftant. On this we hauled up, to have a nearer view of it, with amode^ rate breeze at North North Eaft. At noon the North point of the ifknd boreNorth 68*Weft, diftant 14 leagues. Inow changed our courfe to Weft by South, and fteered fw the Eaft end of Madeira, which, having been one of the firft of the Weftem difcoveries, has facilitated future voyages. Our obfervation at noon gave 33* 7' North latitude, and the longitude was 15* 29' Weft. During the afternoon we kept ftanding for Madeira, the Weft end of which, at iix o'clock, We due Weft about 1 2 leagues diftant. As I wiftied to look into Funchal Bay, and was not willing to lofe the opportunity of doing it, we fliortened fail and brought-to during the night with the fliip's head Thttrfday 13. !to the Northward. At five in the morning of the 13th we bore away and made fail. The Eaft point oif the ifland of Madeira, when it bears ^bout Weft by North, has a moft remarkable appearance ; the land feems to be divided by many extraordinary cliafins, ^nd there is a large rock at the extreme Eaft point, in the iftiape of a fphere^ which is perforated fo as to form an uncommon arch. There is alfo a rock greatly refembling a fpire, which feems entirely detached from the ifland, and which, one might fuppofe, could never refift the heavy furfs that conftantly beat againft it. By noon we were clofe in with the ifland, and kept ftand> ing for Funchal Bay, with a fine breeze at North Eaft. Soon after five o'clock, being abreaft of the bay, we found riding there his Majefty*s fhip Grampus, of fifty guns, commo' NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »5 commodore Edward Thomfon ; and under his command ^ ** ^^ ^' his Majdly's (hip Nautilus of i6 guns, which were '— p^^ bound on the African ftation. We hove- to, and I fcnt o«ober. Mr. M*Leod, my chief mate, on board the commodore " *'"^* with difpatches, in order to defire that he would be fo obliging as to fend them on fhore to the Britifh conful, with a requeft that he would forward them to England by the firft conveyance* At the fame time I difcharged one of my crew, and fent him on board the commodore at his own requeft. Mr. M'Leod returning about eight o'clock, we made fail and ftood to the South Weft with a fine Eafterly breeze and clear weather. Nothing occurred worthy of note till the 2 2d ; when Saturd«r «» the uater appearing remarkably coloured, we founded at noon with 130 fathom line; but got no bottom. Our latitude was 1 7* 1 9' North, and the longitude 2 2* 5 5' Weft, At five in the afternoon we faw the Ifte of Sal, bearing Weft North Weft half Weft, 1 1 leagues diftant: at fix o'clock we ihortened fail and ftretdied to the Northward under the topfails; being apprehenfive of falling in with fome rocks which are laid down in the charts about 10 or 12 leagues to the Eaflward of this ifland. At fix in the morning of the 23d we made fail and Sunday 23, bore up South by Weft with a fine trade breeze : in the forenoon we were in fight of fionavifta, the extremes of which bore from North 49* Weft to North 86° Weft, diftant about feven leagues. Our meridional obfervation gave i6* 7' North latitude, and the mean refult of feveral lunar obferva- tions, takcR in the morning, gave the longitude at noon S 2^" • 1 ' I j ll j 1 • 1 1 i6 CHAP. II. 1785- OOober. Mondijr »^, I 'I U A VOYAGE TO THE 22* 27' 45'' Weft; in this fituation, the Ifle of Sal ap- pears altogether as one high mountain, and Bonavifta as a number oF detached hillocks. At two in the morning of the 24th the Ifle of Mayo appeared in iight, bearing Weft, about three leagues dif- tant. On this we hauled up to South South Eaft, in order to give the ifland a good birth. At five we again made fail and ftood for St. Jago, which we faw foon after feven o'clock, bearing Weft by North. The Ifle of Mayo is confiderably elevated, and the land feems capable of yielding moft of the produdlions which are natural to tropical climates ; but it does not appear that the inhabitants take any great pains to cultivate it: for- merly this place was much frequented for fait, which was purchafed by Britifti fliips and carried to America j but fince fait has been fo plentifully gathered on the Bahamas, that trade has greatly declined. With a frefli trade breeze we ftood well in for St. Jago, and at noon anchored in Port Praya Bay in eight fathom water over a fandy bottom ; the fort bearing North Weft by North, the Eaft point of the bay Eaft by South, and the South point South Weft by Weft. I ordered the fhip to be moored with the ftream anchor to the South Weft a cable each way : our diftance from the bottom of the bay, when moored, was about one mile and a quarter. * ■ ■ ' ' Soon after we were moored, there arrived in the bay the Hammet, captain Clark, and a brig commanded by a captain Hawkins, which were both from London on the Southern whale NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. M7 whale fifhcry. Captain Clark had bceh out fourteen ^ ^\^^ '' months, ana had i oo tons of oil on board ; the brig was outward bound. 1785. Odobcr. Mood*/ 14. The filling up oiu- water, and providing ourfelves with fuch fre(h proviuons as the iiland afforded, being pi mcipal objedls here, I went on fliorc in the afternoon, accom- panied by captain Dixon, to learn the bed method of fa- cilitating our various purpofes. * After waiting on the commander of the fort, who is ftyled the ** Captain Moor^** and paying a port charge of four dollars for each veffel, I went to infpedt the wells, of which there are two, and both afford excellent water : one of them .indeed is rather inconvenient for watering, t being fituated at a confiderable diftance from the ihorc ; but the other is not more than 200 yards from the beach, with a good rolling- way for cafks. I am inclined to think .it is better water than the other, as I obferved it tile mo^ frequented by the inhabitants. .» I WAS informed that a market would be held at Praya on the morrow, where I might have an opportunity of furniftiing myfelf with live flock and various kinds of re- frefhments, which were brought by the inhabitants from feveral parts of the ifland. ' At day-light in the morning of the 25th the'* k>ng'boat TueWayj;. was hoifted out, ind I difpatched Mr^ Hayward^ my tWid i mate, with a party, to fill water, . following thcni' rrnnlBdi- ately myfelf in the whale-boat. When: we got. n^tf^ the *^*. .-* t) tK beach. .iI^.W i8 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ "ii.^ ^' beach, the ftfrf running pretty high, I ordered Mr. ttay- •- — p-» ward to bring the boat to an anchor, as I did not think it oaoi^'r. prudent for them to land with her. Tuefdaj 25. Having fet the people bufily to worl; in filling water- cafks and raiting them off to the boat, I again waited on the Captain Moar^ accompanied by captain Dixon. Whe- ther he was diilatisfied with us the preceding afternoon, or what other reafon he might have I cannot fay, but he now behaved in a very haughty manner, feemed difpofed to prevent us from procuring any refrefliments, and even re- fufed us a little water to drink, though the day was ex- tremely fultry ; but on my intimating a defign of waiting on the governor (who I was given to underftand refided at fome diflance from Praya), to inform him of this improper treatment o{ the fubjedis of a friendly power, he relaxed a little, and fuffered us to trade with the inhabitants with- out moleftation. The people in general appeared well- difpofed and ready to ferve us. The remainder of the day was taken up in purchafing hogs, goats, fheep, and oranges, which were brought to market in tolerable plenty. Wcdnef. a6. Early this momiLig I difpatched two of my mates with the long-boat and a watering party, following myfelf foon afterwards ; they immediately got to work, and by nine o'clock a boat-load of water was fent on board ; I like- wiie .font Tome iheep, goats, hogs, and oranges for the jfhip's corfipany. The boat returned at eleven o'clock, and by one in the afternoon a fecond load was fent on board, which completed our water. II Under- ■<''■ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «5 17BJ. Ottober. Wedaef.t.'). UNoeRSTANDiNo thcrc wcFC bullocks on the ifland, and ^ \^ ^' being defirous to purchafe fome for the crews, I waited on a gentleman who ads here as agent for a mercantile houfe in Lifbon, and who I found was the only dealer for beef : on inquiring the price of bullocks^ I was told ten dollars each ; but as they were very fmall, I thought the price too high, and I only engaged one, and it was with dif- ficulty I prevailed on this merchant to take money for it ; he behaved. politely and tr^aljed us hofpitably. This be- haviour from a ibrangfr called for a flmilar return, and we fent him tea, brandyi .wine,, and ^ few other pref^nts. ^ v^. r .♦* • #* ^ The watering of both the (Kips being completed, I de- termined to (lay here two days longer, in order to give the crews an opportunity of recreating . themselves on fhore ; being convinced this recreation would be of infinite fervice to them, efpecially at a place where there is no great quantity of fpirituous liquors to be procured ; accordingly, on the 27th and 28th, both the (hips companies had Thurrday2;. liberty given them to go on j[)i<)re, the half one day and *^^"«'«y »»• the half the other ; while thofe on board were employed in getting the veffels ready for fea. An officer from each fhip was always fent on fhore with our failors, and had particular orders given them to pre-t^ vent, if poffible, any difputes with the natives; thcfe dircdions were ftri I) In the afternoon of the 28th arrived i A the bay thq Diana, captain Barrett, from I^ondon, bouh^ to thecoafl, D 2 ' of I '•m .a:j^ y^^^^ 6^:^ 1* 6 THE i7«> Oaober» Fricfty 28." of firazii;* and' a Bfi^ ffehi- Ma^tmtco cbifmiaMded by c^ptairj Cldrk. Tint DJafta-, iS'lettihg^ g6' K^r anchof , got folilof the Raitiihet's cable, j 1 H ' . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 23 The fame day we croffed the equator in the 25th de- ^ "j,^ ^• gree of Weft longitude with a moderate trade wind at »-■ — ■"* South Eaft, and pleafant weather. November. In the afternoon of the 24th captain Dixon came on Thurfday24. board the King George, and I fignified to him my in- tention of touching at Port ^gmont in Falkland's Iflands, in order to refit and water our fhips; as we then ftiould be enabled to profecute the voyage without attempting to make any harbour near Cape Horn, a circumftancc which would moft probably be attended with difficulty and de- lay. This point being determined on, captain Dixon returned on board his own veflel about five o'clock ; and we ftretchcd to the Southward with a favourable breeze. Towards evening on the 27th, two fand-pipers of the Sunday 27. ftriated fpecies were feen about the fliip; after ftaying near an hour, they flew away in the diredion of Eaft North Eaft. John Hamilton Moore, in his chart of the Atlantic Ocean, 'lays down an ifland called Afcencas, about 19* 45' South latitude, and 35** 25' Weft longitude ; and judging myfelf at this time nearly in the fame latitude, and not being certain of its fituation as to longitude, I brought-to and lay by during the night; at daylight next Moadajrau. morning we bore away and ftood South Weft till ten o'clock, and afterwards Weft South Weft until noon, when our oblervation giving 20* i' South latitude, which is more than five leagues to the Southward of Afcencas, and it being only a needlefs wafte of time to fearch for that ifland, I altered our courfe to South Weft by South, in order to make Port Egn^ont as fpeedily as poflible. Se- verail large flocks of boobies and ftieerwatcrs were hovering about . !■ ■i Hi ■ -ItU: '• ■ • «'■ ' 1 ill H CHAP, II. <■ « November. Tuefday zp. December. Satorday 3. ToeMay 6. Monday is. A VOYAGE TO THE about to the Northward of us, and it is pofTiblc that there may be land not far from this Situation. In the morning of the 29th wc pafled a large quantity of rock-weed, which I fuppoiJbd had been driven from the idand of Trinidada and the fmall iilands adjacent to it ; a land bird, about the fize of a wild duck, and very much like one, was feen flying about ; we at that time were in 21° 14' South latitude, and 35° 5' Weft longitude. The fame precautions that I have already taken notice of were ftill ftridly obferved in regard to the prefervation of health amongft our fhips companies, and were attended with the happieft efleds, as wc had not at this time one fick perfon on board. The trade wind left us on the 3d December, about 24* South latitude, and was fucceeded by a frefh gale at South Weft ; on this we ftretched to the Eaftw;ard, but the wind gradually ftiifting to the Southward, we were again enabled to fteer South Weft by South. In the evening of the 6th, being in 26* 24' South lati- tude, and 39° 26' Weft longitude, we ftecred South Weft during the night, as there is a rock laid down in Moore's chart nearly in the " fttuation. Fortunately, however, we faw nothing of it ; and next mining we again fteered our proper courfe with a frefti Eafterly breeze. On tlie 1 2th vi^ pafled through a prodigious quantity q( fpawn, fome of which was taken up, and on examin^ticA it was found to be the fpawn of flirimps j each ieparate' particle .?*-a 25 CHAP. II. 1785 December, l/laudiy 12.- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. particle was about the fize of a fmall bean, of a fubftance like blubber or jelly, quite tranfparent, and contained a fmall flirimp alive but not matored. I HAVE rcafon to fuppofe this fpawn comes out of the river Plata> as we were nearly oppofite its mouth; our latitude being 34.° 35' South, and the longitude 45° 37' Weft ; the great numbers of fpermaceti whales which are general! V met witli here, are doubtlefs induced by thefe tranfj^' ^nt fubftances to frequent a fituation where they conftantly find fuch abundant lood.. On the r5th, being in 37* 44.' South latitude, and Tbarfdayiy. 48° 20' Weft longitude, we pafted a great number of fpermaceti whales ; a large piece of bark, which appeared to have been recently feparated from the tree> was feen floating in the water ; and albatrofles,, ftieerwatersi and a number of birds which were entirely white, and greatly F^fembled a pigeon, were flying about in every diredion. During the forenoon of the 20th the water was very Tuefday 20. much coloured ; but as there is no known land near the fituation we then were in^ and having a brifk favourable gale, I did not chufe to interrupt our progrefs by found- ing; we iaw a number of albatroffes, fheerwaters, and fllyer-coloured birds,, a fliark, and fevcral whales. Our obfervation at noon gave 42° 26' Soutli latitude,, and the longitude \"as 53° 39' Weft. In. the evening of the 21ft wchad a frefli gale of wind wtdnef. zi. at Weft South Weft, and the fea breaking in a very extra- ordinary manner, we founded, but got no bottom, with a line of ftxty fathom. The next morning large patches of Thuirdaym E rock- ft0 A VOYAGE TO THE 'i . "Hi ^ '"ii.* '' rock-weed were floating on the water, and great variety of « — ~» birds, fuch as albatrofles, flieerwaters, and ftormy petrels, DecemW. wcrc flying about the vetlels. The latitude then was Th»,fl.y«. ^^o 26' South, and the longitude 54- 3' Weft. 1786. January. Monday 2. From this to the 2d January we in general had very tempeftuous weather, attended with violent fqualls ; variety of birds in great numbers were daily feen, fuch as Port Egmont hens, albatrofles, petrels, penguins, &c. large quantities of rock-weed conftantly floating in the water ; and it being much coloured, we were frequently induced to found, but we never got any bottom with 1 20 fathom line: at length, early in the morning of the 2d, we got foundings in 7 2 fathom water, over a bottom of fine grey fand, and immediately afterwards faw Falkland's Iflands, the land then in fight bearing from South to South Eaft, about feven leagu^cs diftant. During the whole day we had light variable winds, and very hazy weather, which obliged us to ply occafionally, and prevented our getting in with the land. * Tuefdayj. A BOUT elcvcn o'clock iu the forenoon of the 3d, being about fix leagues diftant from the land, we faw fomething from the maft-head which had greatly the appearance of a fiiip under fail bearing South Eaft of us, but on a nearer approach it was found to be a rock whitened over with the dung of birds ; it is fituated about three leagues from the land. Our latitude at that time was 51° 1 South, and the longitude 58° 48' Weft; in this fituation we had foundings in 72 fathom water over a bottom of fine fandy and as we ftood in fhore they leflened gradually. It •M ' ;f. ' t'nl NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «7 1786. Jan nary. Tucfday 3. (t ,. ^ai C It happened rather unluckily, that we had not a fepa- rate chart of Falkland's Iflands on board of either vefTel. This circumftance, together with the variable winds and foggy weather we conftantly had, occafioned us to ply with caution, though I was very defirous to make a har- bour as foon as poiTible; what water we could get at being nearly expended, without breaking up the hold, which I did not like to undertake in fuch ftormy weather as we had recently had. At fix o'clock in the afternoon, feeing the appearance of ,an harbour to the South South Weft, I fent my whale-boat on board the Queen Charlotte for captain Dixon, and communicated to him my intention of ftanding in for it next morning, as we (having then nearly a calm) had no chance of coming to anchor whilft daylight con- tinued. We now had foundings in twenty-fix fathom water, over a bottom of foft fand inclining to mud ; the white rock juft mentioned bore North 41* Eaft, diftant four or five leagues ; the Eafternmoft point of land in fight North 6 1* Eaft, and the Weftcrnmoft point South 6 5° Weft, about feven miles diftant. We tacked during the night as occafion required, and foon after two o'clock in the morn- ing of the 4th, ftood for our expeAed harbour ; but on wedn«f.4. our getting well in with the land, we found ourfelves dif- appointed, the inlet not affording any ftielter for veflels to lie at anchor. On this we ftood to the Weftward, as I judged we were too much to the Eaftward for Port Eg- mont, which I wiflied to make. In the morning we had light airs, and fo thick a fog, that no land could be feen, but at ten o'clock fome high land made its appearance over the fog-bank, and prefently afterwards we faw low land bearing from South by Eaft to South by Weft, about four miles diftant: we had foundings in thirty-two fathom E 2 water, 1-8 A VOYAGE TO THE 11 :'fi'l t i 'ill if I. 'I i I u ;l ■ 1 1 '3 ' L' I c H ^A r. water, over a bottom of mud covered with fine ydlow fand- 1786. January. Wednef. 4. ThurrJayj. The low land was fituatcd about three miles from (hore, and feemed to form two iflands ; but on a nearer approach I found that they were joined by a reef, and that a rocky (hoal ran out from each extreme nearly a mile. We plied along fhorc with variable winds and foggy weather until daylight in the morning of the 5 th, when, having a favourable breeze from the Northward, we flood well in for the land ; foon afterwards a fine opening prefented itfelf to the South Wefl, which pro- mifed an excellent harbour. On this I ordered the whale- boat to be lowered down, and fcnt Mr. M'Leod, my chief mate, with orders to found the entrance, and to direft captain Dixon to keep a-head of the. King "George. By five o'clock we approached the opening very fafl; on which I made a fignal for the whale-boat to pufh on and look out for an anchoring place. Soon after fix o'clock, the boat being about four miles a-hcad, made the fignal for fhoal water, which occafioned us to liaul the ,wind and fland off: after founding diredly acrofs the entrance, the boat proceeded on and prefently difap- peared within the Eaft point of the opening ; notwith- flanding which, I flood in under a very eafy fail, being doubtful whether we fhould meet with a harbour ; Mr. M*Leod not having as yet made the appointed fignal for finding one. At the fame time we were within fome fmall iflands, with an increafing wind, which blew direftly on fhore, and there was every appearance of an approach- ing NORTH WEST €OAST 0? AMERICA. ing gale : however, foon after nine o'clock I had the plea- fure of feeing the union flag flying on the top of a high hill over the Eafl: point of the opening, which was the fignal for a fafe harbour ; !• immediately made a fignal for the boat to return, not thinking it prudent to run in until i had the mate's report ; but that no time might be loft, I reqijefted captain Dixon to fend his whale-boat a-head to found, and, fliQuld they meet with ihoal water, to continue .on it as a mark for the vefl^ls to fail by. About ten o'clock Mr. M*Leod returned, and reported that he had found a good harbour, and a place tolerably convenient for watering. When the flgnal was made for fhoal water, he was in fev€n fatjiom water, over a bed of rocks covered with weeds, which came up to the furface, and which were fltuated near the middle of the channel. c H A II. r. 1786. January. Thurlday ;. We fl:ood in for the harbour under an eafy fail, and at eleven o'clock came to anchor with the beft bower on the Eafl: fliore in twelve fathom water, over a fandy bottom, but under the furface I judge it to be a ftifF mud. The fliip was moored with the ftream-anchor to the Southward : when moored we were land-locked, except at the entrance we came in by, the Eaft point of which fcore North Weft by Weft halt Weft, and the Weft point Weft by North, diftant from the land to the Northward about three quarters of a mile. V 'I 3^ A VOYAGE TO THE ii!i CHAP III. »■ ' 1786. Jannuy. Tkurfday5. i m 1 m \ m ■ 1:1 ■ 1 ' i ^.1 ri 1 .rji fiil !| ! • ! CHAP. III. yarious Employments in Port Egmont. — Ruins of a Town difcovered.-^'Meet with two Ships employed in the Oil Trade. — Method of extracting Oil from the Blubber of the Sea Elephant. — Several Birds defcribed. — Refrefh- inents obtained there. — Leave Port Egmonty and pro- ceed to States Bay. — Difference between the Sea Lion and Sea Elephant pointed out. — Remains of a Wreck difcovered. — Leave Falkland's IJlands and proceed on the Voyage.'— Pafs Stat en s Land. — Stormy Weather in doubling Gape Horn.'— -Pick up a Number of Turtle.'^ Fruitlefs Search for Los Magos. — Arrive in Sight of Owhyhee, IMMEDIATELY after we were moored, I ordered the whale-boat to be lowered down, and went on fhore, accompanied by captain Dixon, to infpedt the watering- place pointed out by my mate, and which was fituated on the North fhore : it afforded excellent water, which run through an immenfe bed of large ilones ; but the path to the watering place being alfo very flony, and liable to hurt our cafks very much, I was induced to look out for a more eligible fpot. We walked along fhore to the Eaflward, and fell in with feveral runs of good water, but the accefs to every one of them was equally flony. As thefe flones occupy a number of vallies whofe declivity is confiderable, and which are feparated by high mountains, I think it 3 v"y NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^ very probable that they have been colleded together by ^ 'J,,^ ''• impetuous torrents of rain, though this ieems not to have ^'" ^ ^-^ happened very lately, as they are univerfally covred with a _J""'y- kind of white mofs. In the courfe of our walk we met with a number of fca lions on the beach, feveral of which were killed for the fake of their fat or blubber to make oil for our lamps, and various other purpofes : by the time they 'vere got into the boat the day was Tai fpc'.^t, which occafioned us to repair on boaid. During the afternoon we had freA^. gales from the Northward with freouen*" Tqui^Ds, but ac nijrlit the wind fliifted to South WeR, and v}v^ vtatJi.' gii;*v modera^ie. Early in wh- nionfing cf the 6th I A uvt in. the whale- FrUay 6. boat, in order to look for r» «:oo.v. hi hi^ boat upon the fame fervice, taking ihe Northern fhorc We carried foundings fvam twelve :o ten fatLom waterj over a fandy bottom, until wz g',-?: wiUiia i (]uarter of a mile of thesfhore ; the water then Thfr* led to five and fix fathom, with a bottonx of jo':;ks '£L<:ui\c the point of land to the So\ithward wc had ftiU. a rocky bottom with fix and feven fathoni water. After prcn. .^ding to the Weft ward for about two miles, we met wit •. a faii.ly bar that nins quite acrofs, and forms a br?.y within the other : fmall veflTels might go over this bar 3a AVOYAGETOTHE ^ ^iif **' ^^' ^* ^^g^ water and lie perfedly fecure ; but it not an- ^- ^- ' • "-* fwering our purpofe, we landed and walked into the lanuiry. country, which was all in a wild ftate, without the leaft " *'' ■ appearance of cultivation, and not a ftick of wood to be feen as far as the eye could reach ; but a good fubftitute^ a« fuel, may eafily be procured, which is the root of a long coarfe grafs, that grows in many places quite to the water's edge, and when dry would make excellent turf. In our walk we picked up an iron hoop, and faw fome dung which appeared like that of an hog; but our principal defign in making this excurfion was not anfwered, as we could not find any water fo convenient as that to the Northward of our prelent Htuation ; on which I returned on board at one o'clock, and determined to make the fhip as fecure as poilible, in order that we might proceed on our watering bufinefs without the leaft delay.. •"* '. • At two o'clock the wind blowing very ftrong at South - Weft, we got the topgallant-mafts down upon deck, the top-mafts were ftruck clofe down to the rigging, and the lower yards kept aloft. In the night the weather grew more moderate, and at four o'clock in the morniag of s«iurJay 7. the 7th, thc long-boat was hoifted out and fcnt on fhore with a watering party ; the cables were got upon deck, in order to get at the empty butts under them. At eleven o'clock the bo&t returned with a load of water which filled thirteen butts in thc main hold ; fhe was immedi- ately difpatched for another turn of water. During the afternoon we had frefh gales and very fqually weather, fo that it was with great difliculty the long-boat got a fccond turn of water on board ; this completed the main-hold ^^ and the cables were again coiled dawn. On NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 33 H A HI. 1786. January. On the 8th I gave as many men as could be conveniently fpared from the fhip leave to recreate themfelves on fhore, and a boat to remain with them all day, in order to bring them on board in the evening. The 25th December "° *^ being at fea, and the weather very unfettled, we declined celebrating Chriftmas until a more favourable opportunity ; and this being a very convenient time, I gave all hands a double allowance of brandy, and fome frefh pork which I killed for the occafion : thefe indulgences, together with a good walk on fhore, made the Chriftmas pafs very plea- fantly ; and in the evening I had the fatisfadtion of feeing my fhip's company in good fpirits ; not a fingle man incapable of doing his duty from drunkennefs or any other caufe. Our people, when on fliore, made excurfions into va- rious parts of the country, and fome of them difcovcred the ruins of a town, with fome garden ground adjoining, in which were a few flowers ; feveral forts of vegetables in fmall quantities, fuch as horferadifli, ftialots, a few fmall potatoes, and fome celery, which was in a degenerate ftate : they likewife faw a hog, but he was fo wild they could not catch him. This forenoon we completed our water, and the long- Monday 9. boat was fent for a load of ftone ballaft ; the people who remained on board yefterday, had liberty given them to go on ihore; they landed on the Weft fide of the harbour, near the ruins of the tpwn I have already taken notice of ; and at fome diftance in the country faw a bul- lock, a cow, and feveral hogs, which probably were left behind when the place was evacuated. F From 34 i!'' m 1786. Jana'ary. Satarday 14. Sunday 15. A VOYAGE TO THE From this to the 14th we were engaged in various ne- ceflTar)' employments. About feven tons of ftone ballaft were taken on board, and our boats likewife aflifted the Queen Charlotte in the fame bufiners, as {he required a much larger quantity of ballaft than the King George. A number of feals and fea lions were killed for the fake of their fkins and blubber; and the carpenters were fully employed in caulking the quick-work and other parts that were found defeAive, in order that we might proceed to fea as foon as pofUble. I gave the people liberty to go on ihore at every opportunity, being co;ivinced that land-air and exercife conduce very much to preferve the health of feamen in long voyages. \ ; . . >* During this interval we in general had. fre(h gales at South Weft, with fqually weather and frequent rain. At nine o'clock this evening a (loop arrived in the harbour, and anchored off the town. Early next morn- ing, captain Coffin came on board the King GeorgCj and informed me that his floop is named the Speedwell, and is tender to a ftiip called the United States, commanded by captain Huftey, and now lying in a good harbour at Swan liland, in company with the Canton, captain Whip- py : both thefe veflels were employed in the oil trade, and had nearly completed their cargoes .; the United States having 300 tons of oil on board, and the Canton about half that quantity. The chief part of their oil is procured from animals they call fea elephants. Thefe creatures are certainly am- phibious, Wi 11 nc- illaft the sd a A LC of fully that d to ;o on d-air thof es at the lom- and and nded ir at ^hip- rade, itates ibout imals ' am- >ious, Ml ■ t ,: i • # r jf ^"^fe^ '*^m^ ^er cXM«^i»<^,tfef. ^dl^m^^ ^^^ w^'mi'-'r IP'^^ mtr -^.•*^-5** YELLOW WIISCT'EB BTTNTHTR . ' /ftAi..- «". ' »■» *iiiM^.ify,/./^.MMAt.KrK^A/t^. ■i-'-^i*- .^«i4tti* — . . t- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. phibious, as thc^ generalty frequent Tandy bays, or the points of bays that are compoied of (mooth flat ftones. A good fea elephant yields near half a. ton of c»l» which is produced without boiling., the blubber is fp exceedingly free : if put into cafks, ^^fflbilulb^ VJUU foon run to oil, and afterwards it n^. Jhe iteun^ oi^ into other cafks ; but this proQcis bdoe^i^tti^r tedious where there are very large quantities or blubber, captain Coffin informed me they had difcovered a better and more expeditious method. Thby build a tank on fhore, of a fize fufficiently large to contain any quantity of oil they exped to procure. Over this tank a grating work is fixed by way of fhainer ; the blubber is. then thrown on the grating, and weights being put on it, the oil is foon prefTed out. Adjoin- ing to the large tank is a fmaller one, into which the oil is drained a feconfl time ; by this means it is ren- dered perfectly fine, and may be put into cafks at; pleafure. From the defcription given by the late captain Cook of an animal he faw at New Georgia, I have no doubt but it was a fea elephant ; and there is every reafon to fuppofe; they may be found at that ifland in great plenty : the &me may be faid of Kerguclen's Land, where we touched during captain Cook's laft voyage, and found a number of thefe animals, which we then fuppofed to be fea lions ; but this w^. certtinly a mxftaken notion, for they were very tame, and killed wi|h the greatefl eafe, whiift the fea lions m'^t with at this place are quite furious, and ought not to be attacked without great caution. 35 C H A UI. P. 1786. Jmixuj. Sunday 15. F 2 The si 1786. JanBarjr. Sunday ij. A VOYAGE TaTHE The featherc'd tribe which inhabit thefe lilands ai: very numerous and in great variety, but moft of them are al- ready well known : however, I procured fpecimens of the yellow-winged buntings the rufly-crowned plover y and the cinereous lark. Since my arrival in England I have got corred drawiiiss, firom which the annexed engravings are takeO) and a defcription of them may perhaps not be im- properly introducecl in this place. TiiEyellowrwiftged bunting is nearly the fize oi 2i yellow- hammer ; length nve inches and a half ; the bill is brown ; the plumage " on the upper part of the body, a reddifli brown; the 'fides bf the head, quite round the eye, the cheft and fore-part of the neck, white ; at the lower part of the lad a bar of reddifh brown; the bread yellowifh ; the reft of the undtr-part dufky white ; the lefler wing- coverts yellow ; the reft of the wiiig, like the back and edges of the feather sj yetlowifh ; the tail reddifh brown, all but the two outer feathers on each fide, which are yellow ; legs yellow. . 'XYiY. female is much like the.//W(?, but the lefler wing- coverts incline to yellowifh afh-colour ; the fides of the head, the cheft, and throat, dufky white. Rujly-crowned floiier, — Size of the ringed plover \ length fcven inches and a half; bill three quarters of an inch long, and black ; the forehead^ cheft, all the fore-part of the neck, the upper part of the breaft, and the belly, white ; acrofs the topoithe head is a bar of black pafTing downwards on each fide of the neck in an irregular manner to tl^e wings, and from thence forwards acrofs the lower part 5 of THE arSTY rROWNlJ PI.OT']ES,3TAT.l<:, z^' :.■■'/ .^ i 1 »> h ^* ♦ m CA//,/f^^ (S/rv/.'Pi'J/i 7 > ^/??/tv: t^yn^/^t '/^/>/.^y. ^y /, //i^, A, ././wUi^ »^''t^J^ fJORtH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 6C the breaft, forming thereon a broad bar; behind the black bur on the top of the head is a circle of a nifty iron-colour furrounding the back part of the head as a wreath ; the crown of the head within this, as well as all the upper parts of the body and wings, are cinereous brown, except the greater quills and tail, which arc black : the legs are alfo black. The female is greatly fimilar to the ma/e in colour, but wants the rufty-coloured Wreath at tHc back part of the head. Cinereous lark. — This ipecies is fmaller than the flcy- lark ; length fix inches ;• the bill and legs are black ; the plumage and upper parts of the body ^ afti-colour, and the under pait the 6atts, but much paler, inclining to white near the vent ; the quHls and tail are black, the outer edges of the feathers of both margined with white. This fpecies is a variety of the lark found at New Zealand. EvF.RY neceflfary buflnefs being now completed, it wai my determination to get to fea immediately, although we had frefli gales at South Weft, attended with rain ; but having occaiion to fend one of my mates on board the ' Speedwell, he returned with a meftage from captain. Coffin, informing me that captain Htfffey had on board the United States, fix or feven thoufand liir feal flcins, and that he had reafon to fuppofc they would be difpofed of at a moderate price. An opportunity of pocuring fuch a quantity of flcins was by na means to be loft, cfpecially' as there was a great probabilit5|r of their feiUngwell in China;. I there- fore fent for captain Diton inuiKdiatery, and cbnfulted him 37 CHAP. iir. Jjniiar/. Sunday ij. . • .1 I . ii il '4' .1 * 'ii •J C H- A ?. lU. JiMwy. Siadiy 15. .38 AVOYAOETOTHE him on the budners : he was entirelv of my opinion, and we agreed to purchafe them, if tne price was not too high ; and, that this affair might delay us as little as pof- fible, we determined to requeit captain Coffin to pilot the veilels to Swan Idand, where, as I have already obierved, :thc United Stater lay at anchor. Moiui«7 16. At four o*clock in the morning of the i6th, the Speed- well failed for a bay on the Bad fide of KeppeKs Ifland ; at five o'clock we unmoored and got under fail, in order to run farther into the bay. About ten, we anchored in twelve fathom, water, over a muddy bottom, the town bearing Weft Noi;t|i Weft, diflant one mile and a half, the ftony valley wherrwe watered, North, three' miles and a half, and the South Eaft end of Keppel's Ifland, Kaft North Eaft, fix miles dif^t. We moored with tKe beft bower to the Weft- ward and the ftream to the Eaftward. At noon I ^ent in tpy whale-boat, accompanied by captain Dixon, after the Speedwellr to have fome conver- fation with captain Coifitt fefpcifting tlic fkins ; we got on board about two o*cldcH, b^t tile isj^CMirio^ he gave us about them was little more than 1 1^ alr^y received by his mefTage; however, he very readily undertook to pilot us to Swan Iftand, through the inner paflage, ks foon as he had got a qufottity of elephant blub|}er on board, which theh lay at one of the outer keys. 'The 'day ibeing far fpenty «nd olij' diftance from the ' fhips.conftd^i^le, we remained on board the Speedwell TQefdty 17. all nighty' juid at five o*ic:l(Dck' iti the morning of the 1 7th ict %■ _:':^: ONEHEOIIS LAKK Oi* FALKLAND S ISJLANDS 'A/-/.. 'A/ ^nf tj. )7^ „^J • K/i^n/t^t/r i^ ^'! ^vu^^if^ , ;.tj5 i •4-iS.»-'. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. (et ofF Tor our veffels, with an intention of furveying the ^ bay to the Eaflward ; at the fame time the Speedwell failed for the key where their blubber was left. 39 1786. January. Tuerday 17. At one o'clock I got on board my ovn fliip, and the Speedwell arriving foon afterwards, I fent for captain Coffin, and we agreed to fail in the morning if the wind and weather permitted ; he then returned on board his own veflel. Some of my people that were on {hore for recre- ation, returned in the evening with a large fow and feveral fmall pigs, which they had caught at fome didancc in the country ; and alfo great plenty of geefe, ducks, and vari- ous kinds of birds, caught chiefly near the fea iide. During the night we had ftrong gales from the South South Weft, with fqualls and rain. Next morning I fent my boat on board the Speedwell wednef. i». for captain Coffin ; he came immediately on board the King George, but was of opinion that it would not be prudent for us to fail with the prefent unfettled weather;, I there- fore determined to keep my prefent fituation till a more favourable opportunity. The wind blew very ftrong all day at South South Weft, attended with frequent fqualls, but towards evening the weather grew moderate. At four o'clock in the morning ot the igth wc un- Thurfdayig. moored, and at feven got under fail with a moderate- breeze at South, fliaping our courfe for Swan Ifland : the Speedwell took the inner paflage, and wc ftood round Saunders's Ifland. By- < '■ i,i 40 C II A P. , HI. 17«($. J inuary. 'I hurfday ig^ Iriday 2c. A VOYAGE TO THE By eight o'clock wc w^re juft in the entrance of Port Egmont, and the wind inclining to South Weft, we plied to windward, and at noon were working through the pailiigc betwc^-n Saunders's Ifland and Low Iflands. During the atternoon we had variable winds, with fogs and clear weather by turns. At eight o'clock the Weft end of Saunders's Ifiand bore £aft by South three leagues, a ridge of rocks which extends from it, Eaft North Eaft five miles, the Weft end of Low Iflands four leagues, and the Eaft end of Carcafs ifland South by Weft four leagues diftant. Soon after ten o'clock wc anchored off Carcafs Ifland Bay, in 15 fathom water, over a bottom of coarfe fand and broken fliells. Tuv. morning of the 20th was ufliered in with a thick fog and quite calm, but about feven o'clock, a breeze fprung up from the Weftward, and tlie weather cleared up ; on which captain Coffin came on board the King Gcf "ge, in order to pilot us into Weft Point Harbour ; the puflage from our prefent fituati9n to that place being amongft a number of fmall iflands : he likewife put a pilot on board the Qiicen Charlotte. On this we inuiie- iliately weighefi, and at nine o'clock paflld between Beachy Ifland and the Eaftcrnmoft of the middle rocks. There is a nioft excellent harbour on the South fule of Carcafs Ifland, well fheltered, which may ealily be known by a fmall illau'l that lies in the middle of it, within which a vefll'l may anchor with the greateft fafety. At noon we anchored with the beft bower in Weft Point Harbour, in feven fathom water, over a landy bottom, and moored with the kedge. When moored, the North point of the har- bour f Port I^H plied ' Rh 1 the Hp uring 1 clear t- ' '■■■' K nd of ridge T^^^^^H miles, : Eaft iftant. 1 Bay, d and with a 'i't^^^M breeze ' ■ 1^ cleared e King rbour ; 4 e being '■ -.-ft ; put a inimc- £sP Bcachy 'I'herc ■i'i Carcafs ^\ 11 by a kvhich a con we )our, in •td with he har- bour NORTH .WEST-COAST, OF- AMERICA. 41 hour bore Weft North Wdl one mile diftant, and the Weft 9 »J,jA p. point of Weft Point Ifland. Weft half North, diftancc "^j^ three leagues. This harbour is certainly one of the ftneft j«n««fy. in the v/orld, being ftieltered from every wind, and cafy " ''' *"' of accefs. ^H; lijr// f, ipfJiiviu.-i - >'o :ymb ■ '• The wind being unfavourable, and the weather very hazy during the afternoon, we kept our fituation; but the morning of the 21ft proving fine, we weighed and got under SituHayii. fail at feven o'clock. Soon afterwards, being dircdiy oppofite the South Weft point of Weft Ifland, the gufts of wind came on fo very heavy from the hi^.'ji land, that we were obliged to clew all up and keep the fhip large ; liow- ever, after we had roimdcd the point, and got clear of the high land, we had a moderate fteady breeze from Weft North Weft. The weather being very hazy, we fteered South Weft by Souths to make the Middle Iflands; and at half paft ten o'clock the South end of Middle Iflands bore South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, one league diftant, and Swan Ifland, South half Eaft, four leagues diftant. At noon we had an obfervation, which gave 51° 44.' South latitude. In this fituation. Loop's Head (which is the Eaft point of the entrance into Swan Ifland Bay) bore South Eaft half Eaft, diftant about two leagues, and the Wcfternmoft of the Middle Iflands Eaft South Eaft, three miles diftant. At one o'clock vye pafled Loop's Head, and ftood into States Bay, fo named by "captain Benjamin Hufly, who firft difcovered it when on a wlialing voyage to thefe iflands fome years ago. „;/ vViTHiN this bay ate feveral fine harbours, tlvj principal of which I fliall diftinguifli by ihe name of HuJ[ys Har^ nil r ) 4» CHAP. III. ^786? JiBHWy. Saturday fli. Sunday ii. A VOYAGE TO THE bour^ in honour of the difcoverer. Here wc found riding at anchor the United States, the Canton, and the Speed- well and Maria iloops, tenders to the United States. At three o'clock we anchored with the bed bower in States Bay, in eighteen fathom water, over a muddy bot- tom, and moored with the kedge. When moored, the outer end of a reef without us bore North half Eaft, one mile diftant; the entrance of the Bay Eaft by North, one mile and a half; and a fmall idand South by Weft half Weft one mile and a half diftant. As foon as the (hip was fecured 1 went in my whale- boat, accompanied by captain Dixon, on board the United States, to have fome converfation with captain Hufly, refpeding the purchafe of his fur feals, but we found he was not difpofed to part with them ; and I am inclined to think he meant them for an Eaftern market, as he mentioned to me his intention of going to China imme- diately on his return home. The bufincfs which had detained us here for fome days paft being now finally put an end to, nothing prevented us from getting to lea immediately; however, as our next pafTage was likely to prove a long one, I was induced to give the failors a day's liberty on Ihore previous to our leaving thefe iflnnds ; accordingly, on the 2 2d, moft of the people from both veflcls had a walk on (hore, and the weather proved very favourable. I ivENT along with captain Hufly over to the North fide of States Bay, and thea* found a lea elephant, wliich at I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 4J CHAP. III. at once convinced me that thofc animals we faw at Ker- guelen's Land were really Tea elephants, and that we were totally miftalcen in calling them Tea lions. I have already taken nodce how very different thefc animals are in their "^ "* nature, and I now had a moft convincing proof of it ; for the elephant was killed with all the eafe imaginable, but at the North point of the bay a number of (ca lions were drawn up in a kind of rank on the beach, and difputed our paflage with the greatcft ferocity ; far from attacking them, we afted only on the defenfive, and it was not without difficulty we got round the point. In the courfe of our walk we found fevcral pieces of white wax, and faw a top, fame fpars, and various other pieces of a wreck. I mention this circumftance more par- ticularly, as it may pollibly throw fome light on the fol- lowing accident. Some years ago two Spanifh veflels came round Cape Horn, bound to Buenos Ayres, laden principally with white wax ; one of them arrived fafe, the other has never yet been heard of, but there is too much reafon to fear that (he was loft on Falkland's Iflands. The day being pretty far advanced, I repaired on board my (hip with a determination to put to lea at daylight in the morning, if the weather permitted. Having a fine Southerly breeze, at four o'clock in the Mondajrij. morning of the 23d we unmoored, and at five weighed and came to fail. We run clear of Ball I (land, which is fituated on the Weft fide of the entrance into Swan Ifiand G 2 Bay, i M 1t :.J y 44 CHAP. 111. 1786. January. Monday 2j. Tnefday ly A VOYAGE TO THE Bay, and then fhapcd our courfe for New Ifland, which, trom Ball liland bears Weft half North, four leagues diftant. On tlie Eafl fide of New Ifland are three good bays ; its greatcft extent is from North to South. Good water is fcarce at this idand, except in a bay on the South iide, and there it is eafily found, as it is a boiling fpring, iituatcd nearly at low- water mark. I was informed by captain H 11 fly, that moft of the fprings at New Ifland are rendered brack ifli by a very heavy fca, which conftantly fets in withaWcftcrly wind, the fpray of which flies over the beach and mixes with the frcfli- water fprings. At noon the Northernmoft point of Round Ifland bore Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, ten miles diftant ; the South Weft point of New Ifland, South Eaft half South, eight miles ; and the South Weft point of all Falkland's Iflands Soutli South Eaft half Eaft, fix leagues diftant. We had an obfcrvation, which gave 51° 36^ South latitude. The wind hauling to the Weft ward at four o'clock, occafioned us to tack, the weather moderate and hazy. At eight o'clock Cape Pcribal (the Wefternmoft point of Falkland's Iflands) bore Eaft South Eaft, fix leagues, and the North point of New Ifland Eaft North Eaft half Eaft, eight leagues diftant. Having a moderate breeze to the Northward in the morning of the 24th, I fteered South Weft, being well clear of all the Iflands, Cape Pcribal at this time bearing 1 Eaft North Eaft, about ten leagues diftiuit. 'J'he weather ' was hazy, and in tiie altcrnoon a very thick fog came on, but we were fortunate enough not to lofe comj; iny. We faw Joumbers of whales, and variety of birds, fuch as pen|};uins, 2 lilvcr- 45 ichr. ucs ■ )od )od Lith ng, by are ¥ itly it )ver 3ore f )uth i" ight iiids had The 1 )ned V' ight nd's V orth 1786. January. Tucfday 14. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. filver-coloured birds, and fmall . divers. About fcvcn o'clock the only hen turkey I had flew overboard, but the weather being very foggy, and a heavy fwcU from the Northward, 1 did not think it fafc to venture my boat from the fliip, thougli I was forry for the accident ; as I had refcfved her and a cock, together with fomc other poultry, to leave as breeders at any place where I thought there was a probability of their breeding and being taken care of. On the 25th, being then in 52° 33' South latitude, wedntf. z,-. and 63° 12' Weft longitude, the variation was 23" 6' Eaft. In the evening we founded with fixty fathom of line, but got no bottom. At fix o'clock in the afternoon of the 26th we faw Thurfdayje. Staten's Land very high, bearing South, diftant about five or fix leagues ; foon afterwards it came on to blow very ftrong and in fqualls, attended with rain, and the weather fo thick that we loft fight of the land ; this brought us under clofe-reefcd topfails and reefed courfcs ; the topgal- lant-mafts were alfo ftruck, 7'he weather clearing up at half paft feven o'clock, the land again appeared in fight, on which we made fail and run in for it : this however was of ftiort continuance, for prefently afterwards there was every appearance of a bad night ; fo that I judj^ed it prudent to fhorten fail, and haul our wind to the Northwird. We founded at tight o'clock in forty-five fiithom water, over a mudvl) bottom : the lead was kept going, but did not ftrike the ground with fixty fathom of line. At midnight we tacked, and at two o'clock in the morning of the 27th .'4 A VOYAGE TO THE ; I . 1786- January. Tridty 27. ;r 27th again faw Staten's Land; the extremes bearing from South South Weft to South Eaft by South, diftant about fix leagues. The weather being moderate, wc made fail, and (hapcd a courfe for the Eaft end of it. At eight o'clock the Eaft end of Staten's Land bore South South Weft five miles, and the fmall iiland oppofite New-year's Harbour, Weft South Weft, about feven leagues diftant. Soon afterwards we pafled through a'ftrong ripj)ling, which I found was occafioned by a current fetting to the North- ward. Immediately after we doubled the Eaft point of Sta- ten's Land, I fteered South by Weft by compafs, in order to get a good offing ; not chufing to keep near the ftiore, on account of the ftrong current which fets through the Straits of La Maire. At noon Cape Saint Juan, which is the Eaft cape of Staten's Land, bore North Weft by Weft half Weft, about fix leagues diftant. Our latitude was 54* 57' South, and the longitude 63* 33' Weft. Staten's Land is high, but the mountains near the fummit being very uneven, it gives them greatly the appearance of faddle lands. New-year's Harbour is already well known ; befides which, there is an appearance of a harbour on the North fide near the Eaft end ; there alfo feem to be two open- ings, one near the Weft end, the other about the middle of the idand, and which is fituated within two fmall round iflands that are detached from Staten's Land. There was a patch of fnow on the fummit of the higheft moun- tain, but not any wood to be feen. I Seals '■'1 jjj' I. ^\J^ ^ »> Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) S72-4503 W f\ iV <^ rv I tl •• n •Mi ' iy^: i; III 1 50 C K A p. 111. 1786. February. Saturday 25. A VOYAGE TO THfi well bear, in order to prevent our being driven to the Eaftward. It is the general opinion of navigators that South Weft winds prevail in this part of the Pacific Ocean conftantly, but we have experimentally found this opinion to be erroneous; the wind for a confiderable time paft has blown from the Northward and Weftward ; generally in ftrong gales attended with fqualls. Tuefday28. Jn the moming of the 28th fome feals were feen about the fhip ; a parcel of rockweed and the branch of a tree v/ere floating in the fea. Our latitude was 52° 20' South, and the longitude 83° 59' Weft ; we here found 19' 49' Eafterly variation. The wind ftill continued Wefterly; frequently blowing a frefli gale, with hazy weather ; how- ever, the 5th of March proving very fine, I ordered the ihip to be well cleaned between decks, and properly aired with good fires. At that time we were in 45° 58 South latitude, and 80* 45' Weft longitude*. During the late tempeftuous weather the water had found its way into the fail-room, and our fpare fails and canvafs were much wet : the weather on the 7th being pretty favourable, they were got upon deck and well aired ; the fame opportunity was taken to repair our rigging, fome of which was much damaged. For fome days paft the wind had inclined to the South- ward, and I began to conceive hopes that we ftiould be * The longitu^'* being invariably Weft, no diftln^on will be made hereafter, in order to avoid repetition. favoured 10 March. Sunday 5. Tuefday 7. ( 1 1786. March. TuefJay 7. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 5* favoured with a fteady breeze at South Weft or South South *-' Weft, efpecially as we had a prodigious fwell from that quarter, and the clouds moved brifkly towards the North Eaft ; but now it again hauled to the Weftward. Indeed ap- pearances of this nature are not to be depended on in thefe feas, as we have been regularly difappointed in them for three weeks paft. Towards noon the water changed colour and had the appearance of foundings ; if fo, it muft be a confiderable diftance from fhore, our latitude being 44° 20' South, and the longitude 79" 49'. On the loth we had 10° 41' Eafterly variation, and on Friday 10. the 1 2th it was 15° 7' Eaft. As the variation had gra- Sunday i a. dually been decreafing for fome time paft, I cannot ac- count for fo material a difference, except that on the loth we were rather more to the Eaftward, and confequently nearer the land, which poflibly might have fome effedt on the compafs. The wind ftill continued to the Weftward, and brought on fo thick a fog that we feldom faw each other ; yet we were fortunate enough not to part company. On the 1 5th, the weather clearing up, we got a meridian Wednef. ij. altitude, which gave 42° 14' South latitude.; the longitude by lunar obfervation was 85° 4', and the variation 1 2° 3' Eaft. The fog was fucceeded by fqually unfettled weather, with frequent heavy rains, and fometimes light fnow ftorms, which, however, were of ftiort duration, and the weather gradually became temperate and pleafant, but the wind ftill continued to the Northward and Weftward. "1/ On the 21ft the latitude was 36 mean refult of feveral fets of human H 2 South, and the Tuefdayzi, obfervations gave CHAP, in. 1786. March. Toefdty zi. *i i;.:? I ^1 # A VOYAGE TO THE 88** 7' longitude. In the afternoon I fent a boat on board the Queen Charlotte for captain Dixon ; he came on board the King George, and we determined to ftand on diredlly for Los Majos, an iiland difcovered by the Spaniards, and fituated about 20* North latitude, and 135' longitude. This ifland being very little out of our track, induced me to fteer for it, as there was a probability of meeting with a good harbour and water ; fo that we fhould be able to refit our veflels and refrefh the crews, without running down to the Sandwich Iflands, which were confiderably out of our courfe. At the fame time we appointed Owhyhee as our place of rendezvous in cafe of feparation befoi'i we arrived at Los Majos; there to wait for each other ten days ; and if not joined during that time, to fail for King George's Sound .^ Saturday 15. On tlic 25th, being in 32* 28' South latitude, and 91* 51' longitude, we had a moderate fteady breeze at Eaft South Eaft, with very fine weather, and I began to entertain hopes that we had fallen in with a trade- wind. . This forenoon the fhip was well fcraped fore and aft, aired with fires, and afterwards wafhed with vinegar ; cyder was alfo ferved to the people at the rate of a pint a man, be- . fides their ufual allowance of fpirits. With a light Eafterly breeze we fleered North Weft by Weft ; and at fix o'clock in the afternoon a fail was feen from the maft-head^ or a rock which had greatly the ap- pearance of one, bearing North Weft by Weft half Weft*. Not being certain whether what we had feen really was a veffel, I changed 6ur courfe to Weft by North, and ftood under an eafy fail ; fo that we could eafily haul our wind in caib 12 . of NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 5.? of danger during the night ; but foon after nine o'clock ^ "nf ^* our doubts were changed into certainty ; for we plainly *- - ^ -* perceived the obje 1786. April. Saturday 15. I ■iil ■f^ ill: 1 H J , uHi m ) i^H M ^Hl m ^9 1; ' H 1 Hi ■■''a.i. %■ ^^^^B m A VOYAGE TOTHE up a very lively one on the i5tli, which weighed fixty-five pounds, and was caught juft in time for us to celebrate Eafter, the next day being Eafter Sunday. The cyder, which had been regularly ferved to the (hip's company for fome time paft, being expended, I ordered fome fweet wort to be made, and ferved out at the rate of half a pint per man each day. Our latitude at noon was 7° 4' South, and iii" 59' longitude. We faw a large flock of white birds about the fize of a tern, and which I am inclined to think are of the fame fpe- cies with thofe we met with in great abundance at Chrift- mas I{land during captain Cook's lafl voyage. Several turtle pafled us, and great numbers of dark-coloured birds were flying about. From thefe appearances I conjeftured we were pafling near fome land ; but, though the day was clear, we could fee nothing of the kind from the mail head. Thurfday2o. Qn the 20th wc crolTed the equator, in 115° 10' longii. tude; the variation here was 3** 28' Eaft. Saturday za. j^ t^c latitude of 3* 33 North, longitude 1 16' 35', we found a current fetting to the Eaftward, at the rate of one mile and a half per hour, in which I changed our courfe from North North Weft to North Weft half Weft. A crofs fwell from every diredion inclined me to think that we were rather too near the great bay of Panama. However, I was under the neceffity of keeping well to the Eaft- ward, that we might he enabled to fetch the iflands Los Majos, which, fliould they afford good water, and fome other NORTH WEST COAST OF AKI ERICA. ether refrefhments, may be hereafter of the greateft im- portance to any fhips coming round Cape Horn to the Weftern coaft of America, as they lie direftly in the track for that coaft, and confequently are more conveniently lituated than the Sandwich iflands. SS 1786. April. Saturday Z2. ' I HAD conceived hopes, that when the South Eaft trade tvind left us, it would have been fucceeded by that at North haft ; but we did not get a fteady North Eaft trade till the I ft of May in 8° 53' North latitude, and 120° 29' longitude. DuRiNG this interval, we had light variable winds and calms by turns, with clofe fultry weather and frequent heavy rains. Notwithftanding every precaution, the fcurvy made its appearance amongft us j and the boatfwain in par- ticular was fo bad for fome days, that I almoft defpaired of his recovery; but it fortunately happened, that fome fmall lallad, fuch as muftard and crefles, which I had fown in feveral cafks of mould procured at Falkland's Iflands^ was now in great perfedion. I planted fome korfe-radifh in a caflc before we left England, which was in an improving ftate, and fome potatoes, planted fince we left Falkland's Iflands, began to fprout very finely. Thefe things were given to the boatfwain, and they had every good effe6t that could be wifhed ; they checked the diforder, and he began to recover his health daily. This unwholefome weather had likewife affeded the health of feveral feamen on board the Queen Charlotte ; and captain Dixon in par- ticular being very bad, I went on board the Queen Char- lotte, and found his diforder to be the fcurvy. At my re- turn, I fent him a cafk of fine mould, with fallad grow- ing, May. Monday i. .-*'. i ' ... ^1 :i1 ■I 56 CHAP. III. u. — .^ 1786. May. Monday i. Sunday 7. Ftiday le. A VOYAGE TO THE ing in it, together with fome krout, garden feeds, and a few bottles of artificial mineral water, which was prepared by Dr. Melville, in imitation of Seltzer water, and fup- pofed to be a moil exccllenfantifcoibutic. We frequently caught turtle, which were conftantly ftrved out amongft the fhip's company, and I fent fome on board the Queen Char- lotte. This, with the addition of krout, portable foup, and fweet-wort, contributed greatly to prefei ve the health of the (hips crews. In the forenoon of the yth, we were near the fituation of the ifland Partida, according to captain Cook's general chart, but no appearances of land were feen. Indeed, this iiland was not feen by captain Cook, but copied into that chart from the authority of the Spaniards. Towards noon the wind inclining more to the North- ward, we fteered North North Wefl:, in order that we might get into the latitude of Los Majos, without being to the Weft ward of it, which I was afiaid might be the caie, if the wind hauled to the Northward as we Increafed our latitude. On the 1 2th, being in the latitude of 20" i South, and 134.* 11' longitude, I expected to have fallen in with the Los Majos iilands, as we were now exadly in the centre of them, according to the chart juft mentioned, but not the leaft appearance of land was to be feen. The fickly fituation of our people rendered it however abfd- lutely neceftary for us to make land as foon as pofTible ; on which account we lay-to in the night-time, and fpread during the day; fo that (as we were favoured with fine clear NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 57 clear weather, and a fteady breeze) it was impofTible for ^ ",^ '*• us to mifs them if they really exifted. ^7 ^ 6 '^' May. We ftood to the Weftward between 19" 46' and 20" North latitude, till the 15th, by which time wc were Monday ij. coniidcrably to the Weftward of Los Majos, but no fuch iflands were to be found. On which I determined to ftand diredlly for the Sandwich Iflands, as there was a certainty of our procuring whatever refrcfliments we wanted. The fcurvy now attacked a number of the ihip's crew. The firft fymptoms were a ftifFnefs about the knees and hams, afterwards the fhin-bones became fore; and in a few days thofe parts which before were ftifF began to fwell and turn black, and the mouth grew fore. My boatfwain had all thefe appearances to a great degree, attended with a fever and a violent pain in his head, notwithftanding which he recovered in a furpriling manner. *:. / As I never knew an inftance of a perfon recovering from an advanced ftage of the fcurvy whilft at fca, I fhall take the liberty of mentioning the regimen he was under during his illnefs, efpecially as it may be of great ferviee to perfons in -^le fame Situation. Befides the afliftance he received from .^'r. Hogan my furgeon, who was very Ikil- ful: in his profeflion, he had for breakfaft a pint of fwtet wort, with fome foft bread, which I ordered to be made for him. About ten o'clock he gathered fome fmall fallad from the little garden I have juft mentioned ; this he ate with vinegar; for dinner he ha:! portable foup with bar- ley, celery feed, muftard, crefs, and rape feed boiled in it; befides which, he ate plentifully of krout. Thefe I things I III I- i ■!! f HI I i: Hi 'vi ^^il; CHAP. III. 1786. May. Monday 1$. ^S AVOYAGETOTHE things had To good an efFeA, that in a fortnight he was able to do his duty as ufual : Captain Dixon likewife grew better, though flowly ; and he attributed this favourable turn in his diforder chiefly to the mineral water prepared by Dr. Melville ; a few bottles of which I fcnt him, as al- ready has been related. With a fine trade breeze we (leered Weft by South, in order to make Owhyhee, the principal of the Sandwich Tuefday 23. Iflands. Our latitude on the 23d was 19" 10' North, and 153** 21' longitude. In this fituation we found a current fetting to the Southward. I EXPECTED to have made the land before night came on; but towards evening the weather turned very hazy, on which we {hortened fail, and brought-to during the Wedaef. 24. night. At daylight in the morning of the 24th, we bore away and made fail, and at feven o'clock Owhyhee made its appearance, the Eaft point bearing North Weft by Weft, about fix leagues diftant. Soon afterwards, hav- ing an uninterrupted view of the ifland, I kept away along fliore down the South fide, and at noon the Eaft point bore North half Weft, three leagues diftant. The Eaft and South Eaft parts of this ifland appear fer- tile and very pleafant ; but that part which lies South and South Weft is quite barren, and feems to be covered with a kind of lava. By two o'clock, being within three miles of the land, and running along fliore with a moderate breeze, a num- ber of the natives came off in their canoes, and brought with them fome fmall hogs and a few plantains, which I bought NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 59 I bought for beads and fmall pieces of^ iron. A num- ^ ^j,,^ '^• ber of their fifhing lines were purchafed, many of which ^;-g--* were from three to four hundred fathoms long, and ^^JJjf; perfcdly well made. Some were made with two and others with three ftrands, and much ftronger than our lines of twice the iizc* I 2 Co A VOYAGE TO THE ;t i li m CHAP. IV. Range along the Coaji of Owhyhee. — Arrival m Karaka- kooa Bay. — U?iruly Behaviour of the Natives. — Leave Karakakooa Bay. — RefreJJjments procured along the Coajl. — Difappointed in coming to anchor at Morotoi. — Arrive at Woahoo. — Fruit lefs Search for a Watering- place, — Supplied with Water by the Natives. — Ref refit- ments ohtamed. — Departure from Woahoo. — Account of the prefent Governmc7it amongfl the Sandwich Iflafids, — Pafs Atoui. — Arrival at Oneehow. — TraiifaEiions there. c HA p. rr>HE Indians traded with cheerfulnefs, and did not ». — —-J ^ flicvv any difpofition to ad diiKoneftly: after dif- May.' pofing of cv-^cry thing they had got to fell, and viewing WcJnei.24. ^j^^ ^-p ^ round, they returned to the fhore perfectly well pleafed. As Karakakooa Bay was the only harbour we knew of at Owhyhee, I determined to make it as foon Thurfdayzj. jjg pofTible J and at eleven o'cloek in the forenoon of the 25th we pafled the South point; but foon afterwards the wind grew variable, and frequently blew in fqualls. During the afternoon we flood to the Northward along the Weft fide of the ifland ; and being well in with the land, a number of canoes came off, bringing hogs and other refrefhmcnts, which we chiefly purchafed with fmall pieces of iron. I had conceived hopes that we fhould have ^5smS NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 6i have come to anchor in Karakakooa Bay this evening ; but ^ "^^ •*• there was very little wind, and that little was unfavour- *-7^^'~— ' able : indeed the trade-wind is not to be expedlcd after M..y. hauling round theSouth point of the idand, as the high land ""''''>'-«• to the Eaftward entirely breaks it off, and liglit breezes prevail from the Northward and Weft ward. Soon after the day was clofed in we obfcrvcd a great number of fires all along fhorc, and I was inclined to think they were lighted in order to alarm the country : indeed it is cuftoniary for the natives at this ifland to light fires when they make offerings to their gods for fuccefs in war ; and this might poffibly be the cafe at prefent ; but I had obferved a fliynefs in the natives the nearer we ap- proached Karakakooa ; they frequently enquired after captain King, and fcemed by their behaviour to think ♦^hat we were come to revenge the death of captain Cook. . Soon after daylight on the 26th, Karakakooa bore North F.iJay 26, Eaft by Eaft, about fix leagues diftant ; and a light breeze fpringing up at North Weft, we ftood in for tlie bay. Jii the forenoon an inferior chief came on board, from whom 1 learned that Tereeoboo, who was king of Ovvhyhce when we laft were at that ifland, was dead ; and that the prefent king's name was Maiha Maiha. He importuned me very ftrongly to go on fhore ; but on my declining it, and making him a prefent, he informed me that Maiha Maiha would pay me a vifit on the morrow ; but I paid little re- gard to this piece of intelligence, as it was not likely that Maiha Maiha would venture on board after the at'live part he took in that unfortunate affray which terminated in the much-lamented dcatli of captain Cook. Many 9 6a I7«6. May. Friday z6. n'wr A VOYAGE TO THE Many canoes now came along-fide, and the people were very importunate to come on board ; they behaved in a very daring infolent manner ; and it was with difHculty they were prevailed on to quit the fhip ; liowever, I bore all this with patience, being unwilling to ufe violence if it couid pofTibly be avoided ; though at the fame time I was much afraid from thefe appearances, that we fhould not be able to do our bufinefs at Karakakooa with eafe and fafety, particularly to fill our water and get the fick people on fhore. As we approached the harbour, great numbers of canoes joined us, and many of them hanging by the (hip, re- tarded our progrefs fo much, that it was near four o'clock in the afternoon before we came to an anchor. I moored with the beft bower to the Weftward in nine fathom water, over a bottom of white fand, and the fpare anchor to the Eaftward, in feven fathom, over the fame bottom. The Weft point of the bay bore Weft, and the South point South half Weft, diftant from the beach at the bottom of the bay about a quarter of a mile. Soon after our anchor was gone, we were furrounded by an amazing number of the natives, both in canoes and in the water ; they grew very troublefome, conftantly crawling up the cable and the (hip's fides ; fo that moft of the feamen were employed in keeping the veflel clear, and it was not without fome difficulty that we got moored.. « During this time no chief who had any command on the people made his appearance, which was rather unfor- tunate ; for if I could have got a perfon of confequence NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. (h on board, he would have kept the reft in order, and our *^ "j^^ p. bufinefs would have been carried on with eafe and dif- *■ patch. ■786. May. Friday 26. In the courfe of the afternoon we procured a number of fine hogs, and a good quantity of fait, together with plantains, potatoes, and taro, which laft was the fineft I ever faw, and not in the leaft inferior to yams : bread-fruit was fcarce, and the little we got was not in a perfedl ftate; fo that I conclude this is not the proper feafon for it. At night fires were lighted all round the bay, and the people on fhore were in conftant motion ; feveral canoes continued near the (hip, and about midnight one of the natives brought off a lighted torch, feemingly with an in- tention of fetting fire to the veffel : on our driving him away, he paddled to the Queen Charlotte, but there they were equally on their guard ; on which he again went on {hore. By daylight the next morning we were vifited by a vaft Saturday 27. multitude of the natives ; but ftill no chief was to be feen who had power fufficient to keep them in order, and they grew fo daring and infolent, that 1 was under the neceffity of placing centinels with cutlaffes to prevent their board- ing us. This unexpeAed reception convinced me that we could do nothing wi* h fafety on (hore without the protedion of a ftrong guard ; and our taking a ftep of that kind might probably be attended with fatal confequences j fo that I deter- i I 64 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ "jy^ ^' determined to leave Karakakoqa as foon as poflible. I i- — ^- — ' acquainted captain Dixon with my intention of failing, May. and the reafons I had. for it : his opinion refpedling, the Saturday 27. ^ifpof^j-jon of the inhabitants exadly agreed with my own. Notwithstanding the vaft concoiirfe of Indians that were affembled about the fhips, we fiw great numbers col- lected in bodies on fhore ; fome on the beach, and others on the top of a hill which commands the watering-place ; and there appeared to be many chiefs among them. * At nine o'clock I gave orders to unmoor, but the crowd of people around the fhip was fo great, that our boats could fcarcely pafs to the buoys : in this fituation it was abfolutely neceffary for us to drive them away, and I was delirous of ufing fome method that would frighten, with- out hurting them ; accordingly, after drawing out the fhot, we fired fix four-pounders and fix fwivels ; at the fame time our colours were hoifted, and the fliip tabooed, by hoifting a white flag at the main-topgallant-maft-head : this had the defired efFed ; for, immediately on our be- ginning to fire, the Indians nnade for the fhore with the utmofl precipitation ; in the hurry and confufion oc- cafioned by this alarm, many canoes were overfet ; the • " owners, however, did not flay to right them, but fwam immediately on fhore. We now had an opportunity of unmooring without mo- leftation, and foon after eleven o'clock, having light baffling winds, began to warp out of the bay to the- Weft- ward ; at five o'clock, judging myfelf in a good fituation to wait for the land-breeze, which iifually blows off to- wards h I NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «i wards evening, we let go an anchor, and prefently were ^ '^[^^ p- vifited by a number of canoes, who brought us fome good »"~--* hogs, a quantity of fait, and vegetables of various kinds. Miy! At feven o'clock a breeze fprlnging up from the land, we weighed and flood to the South Wefl until our dif- tance from Karakakooa was about three leagues: I then . ' brought-to, with an intention of flanding off and on for twenty-four hours, in order to traffic with the natives ; being convinced that it is the befl and fafefl method of procuring any refrefhments the ifland of Owhyhee afTords. Early next morning we were furfounded by canoes, sundiyas. and a brifk trade conmienced, in the courfe of which we purchafed a number of fine hogs, and vegetables of va- rious kinds. Many of our people were employed in kill- ing and falting down hogs for fea-flore ; our prefent fitu- ation being much better calculated for carrying on that byfinefs than in harbour ; for now we had a fine free air^ whereas in Karakakooa Bay the weather is fo extremely clofe and fultry^ that there is a great probability of the meat being fpoiled even after it is falted. At noon we were (landing along fhore to the Northward, with a light weflerly breeze and fine Aveather. Karaka- 'kooa Bay then bore Eaft half South, diflant tls'ee leagues, ^nd the high land of Mowee North North Wefl. Many canoes ftill kept about the fKips, and fome of the natives brought off ^ater in calabafhes, which we purchafed for nails. Indeed water now began to be an article of the firft confequence to us j our 5 2d butt being K a-broach, i iff^.-ii vliili't'4 rife t m ^6 C H A IV. 1786. May. Sandty 28. A VOYAGE TO THE a-broach, and there was as yet no certainty of our wa- tering amongft thefe iflands: the refrefhments, how- ever, that we akeady had procured, were of great fervice to the fick people, all of whom daily got better. During the night we flood off and on, with variable Monday 29. winds and hazy weather. In the morning of the 29th the Southernmoft part of Owhyhee in fight bore South- South Eaft half Eaft, twelve leagues diftaat ; the North- ernmoft part North by Eaft, tea leagues ; and the body of Mowee North North Weft half Weft, nine leagues diftant.. The natives of Owhyhee ftill followed the veflels with; hogs and vegetables, and we ftood to the North North Weft under an eafy fail, that the canoes might be enabled? to keep up with us. At fix o'clock in the afternoon a fi-efh breeze iprung? up at North Eaft, which brought on a crofs fwell, and' obliged all the canoes to leave us and make for the fhore. During the night we had frefh gales and cloudv" ^ weather, which occafioned us to fhorten fail and tack Tnefday 30. occafionally. Towards morning the weather moderated.. At eight o'clock Mowee bore from North half Eaft to Eaft North Eaft, diftant four leagues, and the Weft end of Ranai North North Weft, two Ijeagues diftant. The unfettled ftate of the weather, and the uncertainty of our being able to water the fhips at thefe iflands, induced me to put the fhip's company to an allowance of water, at ^ the rate of two quarts a-man a-day. Towards noon a few canoes came off from Ranai, but brought nothing of any 1786. May. Tuefdsjr 30. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 67 &ny confequence to barter. At three o'clock, being about one mile and a half from fhore, we founded with a line of 100 fathom, but got no bottom. The Wefternmoft point of Morotoi now bore North Weft by Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant ; and foon afterwards a frefli breeze coming on at North Eaft, I ftood direftly over for that ifland: by fix o'clock the Weft end, which is low and rocky, bore North Weft, diftant three leagues ; and I had fome hopes of getting round the point, and anchoring in a bay fituatcd on the Weft fide of Morotoi, but the breeze rather failing, we had not daylight fufficient to accom- plifh our purpofe ; on this, we hauled up the courfes and brought-to, the Queen Charlotte being confiderably ,aftern« At half paft feven o'clock, the Queen Charlotte being well up, we filled and ftood to the South Eaft under the topfails ; at the fame time the Weft point of Morotoi bore North Weft two leagues, and the Eailernmoft point North Eaft;, fix leagues diftant. At three o'clock next morning we wwe and ftood in wednef. 31. for the land ; but when daylight came on, I was greatly furprifed to find that we had been driven in the night eight or nine leagues to the South Weft ; fo that inftead of fetching in with the Weft point of Morotoi, as I ex- peAed, the wind being well to the Eaftward, I found we fcarcely ftiould be able to weather the Eaft point of Woa- hoo, round which we knew there was anchorage. These difappointments mortified me a good deal, as I was very defirous to look for water in the bay on the Weft K2 fide CHAP. IV. c .,1 ■■ I 4786. Mwf. WiediwA 34. ^M A VOYAGE to The fide of Morotoi, wherCy from the appearance of the land by the name of King George's Bay, in twelve fathom water, over a bottom of fpeckled fand and broken (hells, and moored with the beft bower to the Eaftward, and a kedge to the Weftward. The Eaft point of the bay, which I diftinguifhed by the name of Pbiiit Dick, in honour of Sir John Dick, the firft patron of this voyage, bore Eaft by North one mile and a Half ; the Weft point, which was named Point Ro(e,. after Gieorge Rofe Efq. fecretary of the treafury, the fecond worthy patron of our undertaking, bore Weft South Weft half Weft, about two leagues^ and the bottom. of the bay North,; two miles diftant. 'sorter -i>w vj>ia r Soon after our arrival,, (everal canoes came off and' brought a few cocoa-nuts and^ plantains, fome fugar-cane and fweet root; in return for which we gave them* fmall pieces of iron and a few trinkets.- Towards even- -. ing, a frefh breeze coming on at Eaft North Eaft, our vi- fiters left us, and returned on ftiore. Next 70 C H A ?. IV. Friday a. i t I ' l^'l •f! ^■( A VOYAGE TO THE Next morning at daylight we had feveral canoes about the ihip, which brought us a few fmall hogs and fome vegetables. Great numbers of both fexes were in the water, impelled by curiofity to pay us a vifit, notwith- ilanding our diftance from fhore* As watering the (hips was now become an obj^d of the iirft confideration, I went on (hore early in the morning, accompanied by captain Dixon,, in order to find out a convenient fpot for that purpofe. We landed or* fome rocks juft round Point Dick, quite dry, and met with no oppofition from the inhabitants; on the contrary, they received us with great kindnefs, and anfwered every quef- tion we afked them very readily. On Our inquiring for frefh water, they conduiled us to fome, which was lodged in a kind of bafon, formed hy the rocks, about fifty yards from the place where we landed; but the quantity was fo fmall, that it would not afford even a tem- porary fupply. On this we continued our inquiries along Hiore, and were informed that there was no frefh water to be met with but at a confiderable diflance to the Weflward. Apter making the Indians fome trifling prefents, we re- turned to the boats, and rowed to the Northward, clofe to a reef, which appeared to run quite acrofs the bay, about a quarter of a mile diflant from the beach. Having proceeded nearly a mile in this direction, a fmall opening in the reef prefen ted itfelf, for which we fleered. The channel was narrow, but in the middle we had two fathoms water ; and after getting through, there was from three to four fathoms over a bottom of fine fand, and good room between the reef and the beach for a number of vefTels to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. to ride at anchor. We landed on a fine Tandy beach amidft a vaft number of the inhabitants, who all behaved with great order, and never attempted to approach nearer to ti8 than we defired. They informec'. us that there was no water near our landing-place, but that we (hould find plenty farther down alcMig ihore, and one of tho natives accompanied us as a guide: however, our progrefs was foon impeded by a little fait water river that has a commu- nication with King George's Bay. This putting a ftop to* our progrefs by land, we again had recourfe to our boats, . and attempted to get to the Weft ward within the reef ; bur the water was fo (hallow that it was impradicable; fo that we returned through the paftage we came in at, and afterwards rowed" to the Weftward, keeping clofe along the outfide of the reef, until we got near the watering-place pointed out to us by the Indians; In this fituation, fee- ing a fmall opening in the reef, we made for it ; and the moment we entered, a breaker overtook us, which almofl: filled and nearly overfet our boats. However, through" the good management of the fteerfmen, who were mine and' captain Dixon's third mates,, we efcaped' without any misfortune; though we had the mortification, after getting over the reef, to find the water fo fhoal, that our boats could not get within 200 yards of the fhore^ Under thefe circumftances, I found that we could nor water at this place without an infinite deal of trouble, be- fides the danger of lofing our cafks, getting the boats dafhed to pieces againft the rocks, and' the inconvenience of carrying our caflcs fo far amongft a multitude of In- dians j which would' make it neceflary to have an armed^. force on fliore, the {hips lying at too great a diftance for. ■ ' them 7^ 1786. Jfunt. ■jr «. : ill Tune. 7a AVOYAGETOTHE ^ "iv'* ^* ^^cm to cover or fccure a watering party; I therefore w — .-— # gave up the idea of watering at this fpot, and deterimned "' * to fend two boats the firft opportimity to examine the Weftern part of the bay for a good landing place and con- venient watering. I RETURNED OH board at noon, and found a pretty bride trade carrying on for fmall hogs, fugar-cane, and vege- tables ; having given orders to Mr. Hill, on niy leaving the fliip, to purchafe every refrefliment which the natives brought alongfide. * No time was now to be loft in coming to fomc conclu- five determination refpedting our future tranfadtions ; I faw » . buj little probability of watering the fliips with our own boats : but captain Dixon, as well as myfelf, was of opi- nion, that the Indians might be induced to bring ofF water to the fhips, fufficient at leaft for a temporary fupply. At all events, I knew there was enough in each veflel to ferve near three months with proper care, but it was all in the ground tier; I therefore determined to have all our water got to hand, and the ground tier filled with fait water. In the mean time, our fpare liands could be well employed ^ in repairing the rigging, arid making the vejffels in every •V refped fit for the further profecution of our voyage, fo foon as the crews were well refrefhed; and our prefent fituation being the moft eligible one we knew of at thefe i/lands, we refolv^d not to quit it before all our buiinels was completed. .. satttrd«y 3. Early in the morning of the 3d I difpatched Mr. Hay- ward and Mr. White in a boat from each ihip to examine • the NORtH West coast of America. the Weft part of the bay for a landing-place and frefh wa- ttri^ They likewifc had orders to land, and make an cx- curfion to that part of the idand round Point Rofc, as there appeared from the fliip to be a fine deep bay in that fituation. The natives now began to bring us water pretty brifkly, and fome of their calabaflies contained near ten gallons; for one of thefe we gave a tenpenny nail, which was much cheaper than we could pofllbly procure the wa- ter oiirfclvfes, allowing for the damage our boats would fuftain, and fhe prefents we fhould be obliged to make oh fhorc to the chiefs. The weather being very fine, our ailing-people were ^crft on fliore under the care of my furgeoil ; and as the in- habitants had hitherto behaved in a quiet inoffenfive man- ner, there was no great danger of their being moleftcd.- No chiefs of confequence paid iis a vifit as yet: the in- ferior chiefs, indeed came on board without any fcruple, and fome of them flept with :us every night. Amongft the" reft I ,had a daily vifit from an old prieft^ who always brought by way of prefent^ a fniall pig, and a branch' of the ' cocoa-nut tree.- From him. I learnt, that their prefent king's name was Taheeterre, and that he was alfo king of Morotoi and.Mowee. The old. map informed me', that his refid,ence was in a bay round the Weft point, and iiriportun^d iiie very hju'cli to carry the fhips" there, as that place, he faid, afforded plenty of fine hogs and vegetables. Indeed, I had Tome reafon to think, that the inhabitants oii that part of the .idand were more numerous than in King George's Bay, as I obferved moft of the double •caj'^oes came round the Weft point ; but as the people now brought us plenty ' . .L. ■ ..'•'» of- 7.1 C H A IV. June. SMurday j. 74 CHAP. IV. 1786. Jun». Siturd*/ J. ' ! ! il ! I m 1 m < ! I ■^y.l Sunday 4. A VOYAGE TO THE of water, I determined to keep my prefcnt Situation, it being in many refpedts a very eligible one; for we hitherto had been favoured with a mod refreihing fea breeze, which blows over the low land at the head of the bay ; and the bay all round has a very beautiful appearance, the low land and vallics being in a high (late of cultivation, and crowded with plantations of taro, fweet potatoes, fugar- cane, dec. interfperfed with a great number of cocoa-nut trees, which renders the profped truly delightful. In the afternoon the boats returned, and Mr. Hay ward reported that he had landed in the Weft part of the bay, where he found a pond of ftanding water; but it was very inconveniently fituated, and could not be got at without difficulty. He afterwards walked up to a rifing ground, from which he could perceive the land round the Weft point of King George's Bay to fall in and form a fine deep bay running well to the Northward, and the Weftmoft land ftretching out to the Southward: this however by no means induced me to change our fituation. Towards evening the furgeon returned on board with the convalefcents, and informed me, that the inhabitants had behaved in a very quiet inofFenfive manner, though they were rather incommoded by the multitudes which curiofity brought about them. By this time all our water from the ground tier was got to hand, and the cables coiled down. The inhabitants now brought us water in fuch plenty, that by noon on the 4tKall our empty cafks were filled, having procured twenty- nine butts, eight hogfheads, and three brandy-pieces, which contained NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. contained 1 30 gallons each. As good water in any quan- tity may be procured at this ifland with the greateft faci- lity for fmall nails and buttons, it undoubtedly muft be the fafcft and moft expeditious method any perfon can adopt who may chance to touch here, to barter for their water in the manner we did. Potatoes and taro are likc- ^ife met with here in great plenty, but I never obferved any bread-fruit, and fcarcely any yams ; fo that there is reafon to fuppofc they are not cultivated by the inhabitants of Woahoo. is CHAP. IV. Vi a I 1786. June. Sunidty 4. Having completed our water, and procured fuch refrefli- ments as Woahoo afforded, I determined to proceed to Oneehow without lofs of time, in order to get a fupply of yams, which I knew that ifland produced in great plenty and perfection. Accordingly, at feven o'clock in the morning of the 5 th, we weighed and ftood to the Weft- Monday 5. ward under an eafy fail, with a moderate breeze at North Eaft. As we approached Point Rofe, a vaft number of * double canoes joined us, which came out of that bay to the Weftward, feen by Mr. Hayward, and which obtained the name of Queen Charlotte's Bay. An excellent bay it appears to be, ftretching well both to the Northward and Southward. The Southern extreme forms itfelf into a flattifli point, which I diftinguifhed by the name of Point Banks, in honour of Sir Jofeph Banks. Point Banks bears Weft by North from Point Rofe, diftant about twelve miles. From each of thefe points there runs a ridge of rocks for about three quarters of a mile; but they always fhew themfelves by breakers, and coloured water. L 2 When .HAP. IV. 1786. June. vfooday $. A VOYAGE TO THE When we were a-breaft of Point Rofe, my old vifitcf the pried came oli board in a large double canoe ;^ bringing with him a very good feathered cap, as a prefent for me from Taheeterre ; in return for which, I fent him two larg- towees and fome other trifles of little value ; I alfo gave the old prieil a light-horfeman*s cap, and another to a young chief who had almoft conftantly been on board iince my arrival at the ifland ; being defirous to fliew any future navigators who might happen to touch here, that this place had recently been viflted by Britifh fhips. My guefts were highly delighted with their prefents, and after many profeflions of friendfhip, they took their leave and went on fliore. At noon Point Dick, which is the South Eaft point of Woahoo, bore Eaft by North feven le^ues, and Point Banks, the South Weft Point, North Weft half Weft, four leagues diftant. After pafting Point Banks,, we hauled to the North Weft, and with a moderate Eafterly breeze, Wretched along the Weftern part of the ifland, accompanied by feveral canoes, who brought fome flying iifti to fell, the largeft I ever faw ; many of them meafuring from ten to twelve inches in length, and thick in proportioa. Thefe fifli are caught in nets,, which the people here manage with great dexterity. The Weft fide of Woahoo is very high and uneven, and near the fliore there appear to be feveral fmall de- tached iflands, within which there is a probability of meet- ing with good anchorage. From the North Weft, to the South Weft points, the land trends North Wtft and South Eaft, and likewife feems to promife well for anchoring ground j but the Jay being very hazy, we were prevented from NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 77 from examining it diftinftly. Before I quit Woahoo let ^ me obferve, that I think it the fineft ifland in the group, *- ^ and moft capable of being turned to advantage, were it j«ne' fettled by Europeans, than any of the reft ; there being °° ^^ ^' fcarcely a fpot which does not appear fertile. Here we j^'^ found a great number of warriors and warlike inftruments ; many of the warriors were tattooed in a manner totally dif- ferent from any I ever took notice of amongft the Sand- wich lilands ; their faces were tattooed fo as to appear quite black, beiides great part of the body being tattooed in a variety of forms. The greateft part of the daggers left by us at thefe iilands during our laft voyage, at prefent feem to centre here; for we fcarcely ever faw a large canoe that the people in her had not one a-piece j and at Owhyhee I do not remember feeing more than two or three. As they are very dangerous and deflrudlive weapons, I did not fuffer any to be made in either fhip, though ftrongly importuned to it by many of the natives : indeed I always thought it the laft voyage a very imprudent adlion to furnifh the Indians with weapons which, at one time or other, might be turned againft ourfelves ; and my fufpicions were but too well founded ; for with one of the daggers given by us to the natives of Owhyhee my much lamented commander captain Cook was killed j and but for them, that ornament to the Britifti nation might have lived to have enjoyed the fruits of his laboiu- in eafe and affluence, after a feries of years fpent in the fervice of his country, and for the benefit of mankind in general : he, however, unfortunately fet the example,, by ordering (bme 7» CHAP. IV. Vi — >— ^ 1786. June. Monday 5. i ;l il^*' A VOYAGE TOTHE fome daggers to be made after the model of the Indian Pahooas ; and this pradlice was afterwards followed by every perfon who could raife iron enough to make one ; fo that during our ftay at thefe iflands, the armourer was employed to little other purpofe than in working thefe de- ftru<9:ive weapons ; and fo liberally were they difpofed of, that thc' morning we were running into Karakakooa b^y, after the Refolution had fprung her foremaft, I faw Maina Maiha get eight or nine daggers from captain Clarke, in exchange for a feathered cloak ; though fince our ar- rival at Woahoo, I have purchafed fome cloaks confider- ably better than that of captain Clarke's, for a fmall piece of iron worked into the form of a carpenter's plane-bit : thefe the Sandwich iflanders make ufe of as adzes, and call them towees ; and to them they anfwer every purpofe wherever an edge-tool is required. Since the year 1778, at which time the Sandwich Iflands were difcovered, there appears to have been an almoft total change in their government : from every thing I now have been able to learn, Taheeterre, the prefect king of Woahoo, is the only furviving monarch we left amongft the iflands at that period ; he then was king of Morotoi only ; and Pereeoranne, who then governed Woahoo, was at war with him, and had fent •^ number of fighting canoes to attack his dominions. It feems that Pereeoranne's forces were worfted on this occafion ; for prefently afterwards, Taheeterre took pof- fefllon of Woahoo; and, fliiflied with this fuccefs, he attacked and conquered the ifland of Mowee ; which, as already has been obferved, is now annexed to his domi- nions. Tereeoboo, who at that time was king of Owhy- 7 ^ce NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. n hee and Mowee, fell in battle whilft defending his domi- ^ *Jy^ ^♦ 1786. June. nions. I have no reafon to doubt the truth of thefe relations ; for Maiha Maiha, the prefent king of Owhyhee, at the time we laft were there, was only an inferior chief, °° *' ^* and is now, as I underftand, in fome meafure fubjedt to Taheeterre ; befides which, the Woahoo chiefs having in their poiTefllon moft of the daggers we left at Owhyhee, is a moft convincing proof that they have been vidorious ; for I am very certain the natives at thefe iflands will never part with their weapons but at the expence of their lives. From the beft account our Ihort ftay would permit me to obtain, the principal of the Sandwich Ifles were at this time governed by the following perfons : Woahoo, Morotoi, and Mowee, were fubjedt to Taheeterre ; Maiha Maiha governed Owhyhee and Ranai ; and a chief whole name I underftand is Ta'aao, was king of Atooi and Oneehow. With a light breeze at North Eaft we ftretched to the North Weft during the afternoon, and were followed by canoes, bringing fmall hogs and vegetables, although our diftance from the land was confiderable. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 6th the North Tuefday c- part of Woahoo bore Eaft North Eaft, nine leagues ; and the South Weft part South Eaft by Eaft, ten leagues dif- tant ; the ifland of Atooi appeared in fight, bearing North Weft by Weft, diftant twelve leagues. We now had light variable winds, with calms by turns ; the weather very dole and fultry. Our obfervation at noon gave 21* 36' North latitude : in this fituation we found a pretty ftrong current fetting Weft North Weft. At ! i| 80 AVOYAGETOTHE ^ "iv^ ^' At eight o'clock the extremes of Atooi bore from *^ — -^ North Weft, to Weft half North, the neareft land about five jone! leagues diftant. The night was Ipent in ftanding off and Tuefdiy 6. ^^ . ^s I wiflicd to Tun wcU in with the South fide of Atooi on the morrow, in order to give the natives an op- portunity of bringing us vegetables ; the ftock we pro- cured at Woahoo beginning to run ftiort. Wednef. 7. At fivc o'clock in the morning of the 7th we bore away and made fail with a fine breeze from the Eaftward, which brought us by eight T)*clock within two leagues of the land. The land on the Eaft and South Eaft part of Atooi, rifes gradually from the fea-fide till it terminates in high land, which feems fituated near the centre of the idand ; thefe hills are clothed to the fummits with lofty trees, whofe verdure has a beautiful appearance ; the land next the {hore affords a few buflies, but feems quite unculti- vated, and deftitute of inhabitants. On the Eaftern (hore there are a few fmall fandy bays, but they afibrd no fhelter for (hips to ride in; being quite expofed to Eafterly winds, which blow diredlly on more, and generally prevail here. After pafling the South Eaft point, we found the land cultivated in general, and houfes were fcattered here and there all along fhorc to the Weftward : by noon we had feveral canoes about the fliip, from whom we procured a few vegetables ; but the furf ran fo high on the beach, 8 that NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 8t that the natives could not bring off arty confiderable ^ ^^^ p. quantity. ^^^ June. As I knew Atoui afforded plenty of fine hogs, and a ^"^"*'^' '* variety of other refrefliments, we ftood on for Wymoa Bay, where captain Cook anchored the laft voyage ; as I was defirous of procuring fome good hogs for faking, and alfo fome to carry with me to fea. By three o'clock we were nearly a-breaft of the bay, when the wiild inclined to the Southward, and blew fo frefh, that the anchoring- ground was very unfafe to ride in ; • being entirely expofed to Southerly winds, which fend in a heavy crofs-fea : I therefore did not think it prudent to truft the fhips in fuch a fituation ; fo wore, and ftood for Oneehow, under all the fail we could carry. At four o'clock the extremes of Oneehow bore from North North Weft half Weft, to South Weft by Weft, about four leagues diftant from the neareft land. The South point of this iftand forms a remarkable high bluff, rifing on all fides to a confiderable height, and breaking off abruptly. About five leagues to the Eaft- ward, it has the appearance of a detached ifiand, being joined to the main by a low flip of land, which is not feen more than three leagues diftant. At feven o'clock the South point bore Weft by North about two miles, and the Eafternmoft part of the ifland, North North Eaft, four leagues diftant. Finding we had not fufficient daylight to bring us into the bay on the Weft fide of Oneehow, we fliortened fail, and hauled on a wind to the Southward ; intending to fpend the nighc in ftanding off and on. At eleven o'clock we wore, and made the fignal to the Queen M Charlotte, fW -.'*'• 92 A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. IV. 1786 June. W«dneC 7. ; li N lR'-^ Charlotte, but flie not obferving it, continued ftanding to the Southward ; foon afterwards having nearly loft fight of each other, we wore, and ftood after her. Having joined company, we again wore at one o'clock, and ftood to the Northward. This miftake nearly occaiioned us ta mifs Oneehow ; for, by ftanding too long to the South- ward, we got into a current which fet us fo ftrongly to the Thurfday 8. South Weft, that at daylight next morning, though the wind hung well to the Eaftward, we could fcarely fetch a league to the Eaftward of the Weft point. At fix o'clock the South and Eaft points of Oneehow in one, bore North Eaft half North; our diftance then from the neareft land was about two miles. I now perceived that we could weather well to the Eaftward of the road ;. therefore ftretched along ftiore, about the diftance of one mile, and had regular foundings from twenty to fixteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine land. The wind ftill continuing well to the Eaftward, I was tempted to run down and look into the Weft bay. At nine o'clock we hauled round the Weft poirvt, and opened a bay, which I found to be a very good one ; the foundings from fifteen to feventeen fathoms water, over a fine fandy bottom, and diftant at leaft two miles from fhore. After running a-breaft the South Weft part of the bay, we anchored with the beft bower in eighteen fathoms water, over a fandy bot- tom, and moored with a kedge to the Weftward in twenty- four fathoms water : the extremes of the bay bearing from North by SewG||^o South Eaft ; from which laft point we were not more than half a mile diftant. From the North point of the bay a ledge of rocks extend themfelves in a di- redlion nearly Eaft and Weft, for more than half a mile ; fome of NORTH WESr COAST OF AMERICA. of which appear above water, and the extent of the reft may eafily be known by the furf that continually breaks over them. About the middle of the bay is a fine fandy beach, within a quarter of a mile of which a fhip may moor in feven and eight fathoms water, over a bottom of fine fand ; and boats may land with great eafe and fafety. No fooner were we moored, than leveral canoes vifited us, bringing yams, fweet potatoes, and a few fmall pigs; for which we gave in exchange nails and beads. Amongft ' the people in thefe canoes were feveral whofe faces I re- membered to have feen when at this ifland before ; parti- cularly an old prieft, in whofe houfe a party of us took up our abode, when detained all night on iliore by a heavy furf, and who treated iis in a very friendly manner. Our principal bufinefs here was to procure a good ftock of yams ; and thefe I had the pleafure to fee brought to us in tolerable plenty. I was alfo defirous to obtaip a further fupply of good hogs for faking ; but this at pre- fent was very doubtful: for as yet we had feen very few, and the largeft did not weigh more than twenty pounds. I expefted to find no difficulty in getting water, at leaft fuf- ficient for our daily ufe ; as Mr. Bligh, who was mafter of the Refolution during our laft voyage, and difcovered the bay we now lay in, went on fliore in order to examine this part of the ifland, and met with two wells of frefh water in the neighbourhood of our prefent fituation. ^ «3 CHAP. IV. 1786. liine. TJiurfdayl. Early next morning we were furrounded by x:anoes, Friday 9. who brought a plentiful fupply of yams, and fome fugar- M 2 cane.. «4 1786. June. Ftiday 9. im A VOYAGE TO THE cane. A chief, named Abbenooe, whom I knew when at this iiland before, alfo paid me a vifit, and recognized his old acquaintance the moment he came on board. Having appointed fix perfons to trade with the natives for yams, and given orders to have them dried and flowed away, I went on fhore in fearch of the wells mentioned by Mr. Bligh, accompanied by Abbenooe as a guide. When we landed, a number of the natives who were affembled on the beach retired to a confiderable diftance, and we walked to the wells without the leaft moleftation. I found one of them brackifli and (linking; the other af- forded good water, but in no great quantity. The good water was fituated about half a mile to the Eaflward of the beach, and the direft path to it was over a fait marfh: to avoid which a confiderable circuit muft be taken, which renders the fituation very inconvenient. Indeed, a fhip in diflrefs for water might procure it here, though much time muil be fpent in doing it. I would recommend it to all fhips watering amongft Indians, to have a fufiicient num- ber of cafks hooped with wood inflead of iron, for the purpofe of filling on fhore. Thefe might afterwards be flarted into other cafks in the boats. By this means much mifchief might be avoided; for the Indians, having no temptati(Mi to fleal them, probably would behave in a peace- able manner, and might fafely be trufled to afTifl in rolling the cafks. After examining thefe wells, I made an excurfion into the country, accompanied by Abbenooe, and a few of the natives. The ifland appears well cultivated; its principal produce is yams. There are befides, fweet potatoes, fugar- cane, and the fweet root which is called Ue by the natives. 6 * A few •** ^. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. A few trees are fcattered here and there, but in little order or variety. Some that grew near the welljuft mentioned were about fifteen feet high, and proportionably thick ; with fpreading branches, and a fmooth bark; the leaves were round, and they bore a kind of nut fomewhat refem- bling our walnut. Another kind were nine feet high, and had blofTomijof a beautiful pink colour. I alfo noticed another variety, with nuts growing on them like our horfe chefnut. Thefe nuts, I underftand, the inhabitants ufe as a fubftitute for candles, and they give a moft excellent light. Having viewed every thing remarkable on this fide the idand^ I repaired on board, accompanied by my good friend Abbenooe, and found a briik trade canying on for vegetables. A few^ hogs had alfo been purchafed, (ufficient for daily conlumption. CHAP. IV. 1786. June. Frid>y q, # ■» av * m- m 86 A VOYAGE TO THE ':(.■ « m C H A P. V. ^ ■Cofttinuation of TranfaEliom at Oneehow. "^Method of fait' ing Pork in tropical Climates. — Departure from Onee- how. — Method of brewing the fweet Roots'—Arrive in fight of the Coajl of America, — Stand on for Cook's River. — Meet withjome Ruffian Settlers."— Arrival in CoolCs River. — Vifited hy the Rujftan Chief — An- chor in Coal Harhour.^^Various Employments there. — Abundance of Salmon. — Vift th& Rujftan Settlement.-^ Their Mode of Living defcrihed."— Proceed farther u^ the River, t _ • T HAVE already obferved, that Oneehow belonged to ■*■ Ta'aao, king of Atoui. I now learnt that he was there at prefent, and that Abenooe governed Oneehow in his abfence. I made t Jie old man a prefent of fome red baize, and two large towca, which he fent away immediately to Ta'aao at Atoui, and gave me to underftand that I might expedl: plenty of hogs and vegetables from that place in con- fequence of this prefent. I placed no great rdiance on this Saturdty lo. piccc of information J but in the afternoon of the loth I was agreeably furprifed to fee Abbenooe's mellenger return, ac- companied by feveral large double canoes, which brought a number of fine hogs to be difpofed of, together with taro and fugar-cane. 1%. '« m The meflenglr gave me to underftand, that Ta'aao him- felf meant to have paid me a vifit ; but that he could not 5 1.. leave * ^ NORTH WEST OAST )F AMERi^i/l, 8^^ leave Atoui under fix or feven da' , beinf ^etainca there ^ \^ ^' during that time, in order to pt orm foi j religious cere- <- -»- -^ monies for one of his wives, v ho was lately dead; and jone! this intelligence was alfo confirmed by Abbcnooc. How- ^"""'•y '*' ever, I had no great reafon to regret the abfence of his Ma- jcfty, for Abbenooe kept the natives in very good order, encouraged them to bring us whatever the ifland afforded ; and after the people from Atoui had difpofed of their com- modities, he fent them back for a frefh fupply^ Being defirous to make Ta*aao fome further acknow- ledgment for his fupplying us with the various refrefli- ments Atoui afforded, though at fuch a confiderable dif- tance, I fent him' as a prefent a light-horfeman-s cap; this however Abbenooe fcarcely thought fufficient, ani ftrongly importuned me to fend along with it an armed chair, which I had in the cabin, as it would be, he (aid,. peculiarly ufeful to one of the king's wives who had lately lain in. I willingly complied with my friend's requeft,. and he difpatchcd the chair and cap to Atoui, under the care of fpecial meffengers. Our bufinefs now went regu- ** larly and brifkly forward ; the trading party were well em- ployed in bartering for yams and other refrefhments, and others were bufied in killing and faking hogs for fea ftore, Obfervihg the natives to break the yams in bringing them off, which prevents themfrom keeping for any lengtliof time, J fent my fecond mate on fhore on the i ith in the yaul to' Sunday n. purchafe fome; by which means we procured a large quan- tity of very fine ones. Since our arrival here, fuch of the feamen whofe recovery from fickncfs was fcarcely con- firmed were daily fent oa Ihore, and found vaft benefit from exercife. and land air. Indeed,, the inhabitants • at* this t/ :i M ^t 86 f# A VOYAGE TO THE ^ "^^ ^- this Uland are not numerous^ and they were kept in fuch excellent order by Abbcnooe,- that our people walked about wherever inclination led them, without the IcaH; mo- leflation. i7«6. June. m 4 BESIDES hogs and vegetables, wc purchafed fome fait fifh of various kinds, fuch as fnappers, rock-cod, and bonctta, all well cured and very fine. The natives likewife brought us water in calabafhes, fufficient for daily ufe, and to re- ^ place what had been expended lincc we left Woahoo. Cu- * riofities too found their way to market, and I purchafed two very curious fly flaps, the upper part compofed of beau- tiful variegated feathers; the handles were human bone, inlaid with tortoifefticll in the ncateft manner, which gave them the appearance of fineered work. Monday i». By tlic 1 2th WC had putchafcd near thirty hogs, weigh- ing on an average fixty pounds each; the principal -part of which were brought from Atoui : thefe were falted for fea (lore, as wc daily got a fupply of a fmaller fort for pre- ** fent confumption. The method of curing pork in tropical climates was firft brought to perfedlion by captain Cook ; yet his plan feems not to be generally known ; on which account I fliall here ■*"■ take notice of the mode I adopted, as I found it anfwer my moft fanguine expectations. Three different parties were employed in this bufinefs ; and the beft times for killing we found to be about three o'clock in the afternoon, and again in the cool of the even- ing. An awning was fixed over thofe employed in killing and *?• NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. tnd faking, to prevent the fun from damaging the meat. After one party had cleaned the hogs well, they were handed to another fet, who took the bones entirely out, cut away all the bruifed parts and blood-veflels, and cut the meat into four or fix pound pieces ; at the fame time making inciiions in various parts of the (kin, fo as to ad- mit the fait freely. Thefe pieces were then given to the falters, who rubbed them thoroughly with good white fait, and afterwards flowed them on fome hatches, that were fixed as a kind of temporary flage, about two feet from deck. . A SUFFICIENT quantity of meat being placed on this flage, it was covered with canvafs and boards, on which heavy weights were placed. In this flate it remained till morning, by which time all the blood was prefled out, and the meat was hard and firm. Every piece was then carefully examined, and if any parts appeared the leafl tainted, they were cut away, and frefh fait rubbed on. The pork was then packed in cafks filled up with flrong pickle, and prefTed with weights as before. After remain- ing in cafks twenty>four hours, it was repacked, filled up with frefh pickle, and put away for future ufe. Some pork that we falted at Owhyhee was examined after it had been packed a week, and found perfedlly fweet, and the finefl I ever faw. The bones were broke, rubbed well with fait, and afterwards put into flrong pickle ; and the flefh being cut from the heads, it was dry-falted, and kept exceedingly well. I ALSO falted feveral whole fides after the bones were taken out, without pickle, and they made very fine bacon. 89 CHAP, V. I7l6. Jrat. Moadajr it. N SiNCB 90 AVOYAGETOTHE c H^A P. Since our arrival at the Sandwich Iflands, we had ^- " ' faked on. board the King George fevcn tierces and two Jun(f. hogfheads of pork, belides two tierces of bones, and had °" *^ "' not twenty pounds of meat fpoiled amongft the whole quantity. In addition to the above, I fiiall jufi: obferve, that after the hogs are killed, they cannot be too expedi- tioufly cleaned and falted ; for on that the fafety of the meat principally depends, though I believe in moft coun- tries where much pork is cured, they ufually leave it to cool before the fait is laid on. This method, however, is certainly a bad one; for I have known a houfe in Virgi- nia, by following it, to lofe near 600 hogs at one time; whereas, had they begun faking while the meat was warm, and the blood running, I have every reafon to think that the greateft part, if not all of it, would have been preferved. By this time we had procured near ten tons of fine yams, and captain Dixon had got about eight tons on board the Queen Charlotte. The health of both ihips crews was well re-eftabliihed, and every necelfary bufinefs being completed, no time was loft in getting the fliips ready for fea, as the feafon for commencing our operations on the American coaft was already begun, Tuefdayi3. At fivc o'clock in thc moming of the 13th we un- moored, and at eight o'clock we weighed and got under Ikil, ftanding out of the bay (which obtained thc name of Yam Bay, from the great quantity of yams we procured in it), with a frefli breeze at North JEaft. As our vifit to the Sandwich lilands was a very tran- fient one, I had little opportunity of obtaining any in- formation refpeding the manners and cuftoms of the • . . natives; NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. natives; fo that the reader may collect: what little intel- ligence I can give him on that head from the foregoing detail oi our tranfaftions. -9 ' Hods, f^veet potatoes, taro, fugar-cane, and yams, may, as has already been fhewn, be procured in any quantity ; and water is fo eafily obtained at Woahoo, thai in little more than one day we got upwards of thirty tons on board. But amongft the refre{hments thefe iflands abound with, the fWeet root, or tee, which we met with in great abun- dance at Woahoo, muft by no means pafs unnoticed, as it makes very good beer, which, after two or three trials, I brought to perfeftion. The great utility of this root was not known to us during the laft voyage; (o that the method I made ufe.of in brewing it may not improperly be mentioned in this place. ' The root was peeled very clean, cut into fmall pieces, and put into a clean kettle, and fix of the large roots were found a fufficient quantity for twelve gallons of wa- ter. This was put on the fire at three o'olock in the afternoon, and after boiling an hour and a half, was put away to cool. By the time the liquor was lukewarm, a gill of prepared yeaft was added, and afterwards it was put into a cafk. It generally begun to work about m.id- night, and by nine o'clock the next morning it was ex- cellent drinking. I found it necefiary to make ule of yeaft only once; the grounds fermented the liquof afterwards; and I am inclined to think^ that when yeaft cannot be procured, a little leaven would anfwer as a fubftitute. c H 9» A P. 1786. June. Tuefda/ ij. > N 2 This ^iV: A VOYAGE TO THE This beer was conftantly drank by fuch of our Tailors a» were afFecSled with the fcurvy, and they found great be- nefit from it; fo that in addition to its being very ufeful Tuefday 13. ^ common drink, I may fafely call it a moft excellent aii- tifcorbutic. Having fucceeded fo well in brewing the fweet root, I tried fugar-cane by the fame method, and made a good wholefome drink from it, though much in- ferior to the other. We flood to the North North Weft, alojig the Weil fide of Oneehow, which forms feveral fine ' fandy bays, that feem to afford good fhelter and anchorage. At tea o'clock my worthy old friend Abbenooe took his leave of me, and all the canoes left us j on which occafion we hoifted our colours, and fired ten gvms, by way of taking leave of this little friendly ifland. At noon Yam Bay bore South Eaft eight or ten miles, and the Weft point of Oneehow, South by Eaft, fix leagues diftanL Thurfdsy 15. In the forenoon of the 1 5th we faw great numbers of the tropic and man-of-war birds, together with terns and boobies ; Co that I conjeftured we then were failing at no confiderable diflance from fome uninhabited ifland. Our latitude at noon was 24." 14' North, and 160** 24' lon- gitude. For fome days the weather was dofe and fultry, at- Tuefdty 20. tended with frequent heavy rains ; but on the 20th the weather became clear and pleafant, with a fine Eafteily breeze. This gave us an opportunitv of examining our yams, and it was very fortunate tnat we did foj for NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 93 for they began to decay, occafioned by heat ; and in a few ^ ^y^ ^• days would certainly have been fpoiled. »■■ -> ■ -* June. ■ In the forenoon of the 2 2d we few a great number of Tharfdayjir petrels, about the fize of a pigeon, and of a footy colour; and paffed two large pieces of a fubftance which appeared to be a part of the cuttle-fifh : they were very much torn, probably by whales, who feed on the cuttle-fifh. Our latitude at that time was 32*4 North, and i6o' 8' lon- gitude. The wind now gradually fliifted to the Southward, and ^"«'«y 's* afterwards hauled to Weft and North Weft, with rain and a heavy crofs fwell, which indicated that the trade-wind had left us. On the 27th, being in 38*^ 14'' North latitude, and Tuefdayay. 155° 56' longitude, we found 15* 30' Eafterly variation. In the year 1778, when nearly in the fame latitude, and about three degrees to the Eaftward of the above longi- tude, the variation was found to be 16' 30' Eafterly ; a difference of one degree, which is very confiderable. In the forenoon of the 28 th I went on board the Queen Char- wednef.as. lotte, in order to appoint a rendezvous for the ftiips in cafe of feparation, as the weather now wa^ conftantly thick, and hazy. We fixed on a fituation in Cook's River, near Cape Bede ; which cape forms the South fide of a deep inlet, and Anchor Point the North fide. This fituation was a very eligible one, not only as there was a great pro- bability of finding a good harbour, but whichfoever veflel arrived there firft, would be able to make fignals to the other iif at M n> Jf; ft I 94 CHAP. V. 1786. Junp. Wednef. 28. A VOYAGE TO THE other on her entering the river. Having fettled this point, I returned on board my own fliip. In the afternoon the water altered its colour, and had the appearance of foundings ; on which we founded with a line of 120 fathoms, but got no bottom. Thurfdayzp. Next moming a number of feals were feen playing round the {hip, but our diflance from the coaft of Ame- rica was fo confiderable, that I cannot think thofe ani- mals came from thence, or from any known iflands near the coaft. On the contrary, there is great reafon to fup- pofe that we were near fome land which has not as yet been difcovered ; for during our laft voyage, in 1778, when in 41° 50' North latitude, and 142° 30' Weft lon- gitude, we paffed a piece of wood which appeared to have been but d. ftiort time in th^ water, and drifted from the Weft ward ; and in the fame year, when in 40* 1 5' North latitude, and 157° 55' Weft longitude, we faw a fliagg, which bird is never known to fly far from land ; and as our prefent fituation was nearly in the midway between thofe juft mentioned, I had great reafon to expedt we ftiould fall in with fome. The weather for feveral days was conftantly thick and hazy, attended with drizzling rain ; fo that had we pafted within five miles of any land, it would have been impof- fible for us to have feen it ; and the advanced feafon of the year not permitting me to wafte any time in fearching for undifcovered iflands, I kept on my courfe to the North. Towards NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 9S Towards noon on the 3d July the weather cleared ^ "y'^ ^• up, and our obfervation gave 44* 4' North latitude, and « --— » 151' 12' longitude. jV • Monday 3. Since the 29th we had daily feen feals, whales, and porpoifes, together with a great number of petrels, and various other birds ; we frequently founded with a line of 150 fathoms, but found no bottom, neither was there any appearance of land. I ftruck one of the feals that were playing about the fhip, and got it on board ; at firft fight I imagined it to be a fea-otter ; its fur was very •'-• • ■ ' clofe and fine. For fome time pad the wind had kept to the North- ward and Weftward, which greatly retarded our progrefs ; but on the 7th, in 46" 11" North latitude, and 147° 8' Friday/. longitude, it fhifted to the Southward, which enabled us to fhape a courfe North Weft by North, for the en- trance of Cook's River. We kept ftanding for that place without meeting with any particular occurrence. The weather in general was cloudy, with alternate fogs and heavy rain. Vaft numbers of different kinds of birds, fuch as divers, gulls, petrels, and albetroffes, were conftantly about the {hip, and we frequently pafled pieces of wood and patches of fca-weed, called by the failors fea-leek. T»E weather on the 14th being tolerably fine, I took FrHayi4. the opportunity of cleaning the fliip well, fore and aft; and afterwards every part was aired with good fires ; a moft ne- ceffary precaution, after the foggy, wet weather we fo recently had experienced, Ik !t M M iHH IIBHi 1 ^^^^Be^^mhm 1786. July. Stturdsy ij. 96 AVOYAGETOTHE In the morning of the i5tk the water altered its colour, and at ten o'clock, judging we were in foundings, and willing to ftrike the edge of them, as a future dire^ion in coming on the coaft, we tried foundings, but had no ground with 190 .fathoms of line. Our latitude then was 57** 2 North, and 148** 32' longitude. In this fituation we found 22** 21' Eafterly variation. The weather being thick and foggy, we frequently tried for foundings, but got no bottom ; at length, about Sunday i6. eight o'clock in the morning of the i6th, we ftruck the ground in feventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine grey fand with black fpecks ; and at feven o'clock in the evening the fog difperfing, we faw the coafl of America extending from North by Eaft to Weft by North, diftant from the neareft land, and which appeared to be a pro- jedting point, about twelve leagues. In this fituation we had fifty-feven fathom water, over a bottom of ihells and mud. At eight o'clock the land in fight, from North to South South Weft, appeared to be entirely detached from the land in fight to the Weftward ; this induced me to fuppofe, that the land bearing South South Weft was Cape Saint Hermogenes, and another point, which bore Weft by North was Cape Elizabeth. A very great number of Gallicia whales were feen near the fhore, and indeed in f^^iy diredion as far as the eye could reach. , During the night we founded with a line of fifty-five Moadiy 17. fathoms, but got no bottom. The next day at noon the .4 land NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. land in fight, bore from Weft bjr North to North, twelve ^ or thirteen leagues diftant. The latitude then was 58" 23' «. North, and 149" 43' longitude. We continued during the afternoon to ftand in for the fliore, but the wind grew light and variable j fo that we gained ground very flowly. 97 H A v. 1786. July. Monday ij* At noon on the i8th our latitude by obfervation was Tuefday is, 58" 29' North. Cape Elizabeth then bore North Weft by . Weft, diftant fifteen leagues ; the barren Ifies Weft North Weft, about the fame diftance ; and Cape Saint Hermo- genes South Weft, diftant twelve leagues. With a mo- derate breeze at Weft North Weft, we ftood towards Cape Saint Hermogenes ; but by fix o'clock the wind en- tirely failed us, and it grew calm. Cape Saint Hermo- genes then bore South Weft, fix leagues diftant. In that fituation we had foundings in forty fathoms water, over a bottom of gravel and dark fand. At nine o'clock a light breeze fpringing up at South Eaft, I changed our courfe from Weft North Weft to North Weft by Weft; being apprehenfive, ftiould it again fall calm, that the tide might draw ut la between the Ifle Saint Hermogenes and the land to the Weft ward ; a fituation I wiftied to avoid, particukily in the night and with light winds. During the night our foundings varied greatly; when the llle Saint Hermogenes bore South South Weft, fix leagues diftant, we had forty-five fathoms water; after the ifland was brought to bear more to the Southward, we had from fixty-five to feventy fathoms water, over a bottom of dark grey muddy fand. At two o'clock in the morning of the 19th I again Wedner. 19. fteered Weft North Weft, with a moderate breeze from O . South 98 A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. July. Wcdncf. 19 H \w\ c "^A P. South Eaft by Eaft : foon afterwards the South point of the Ifle Saint Herixiogenes bore South by Weft, fix leagues diftant. The morning proved (o very foggy, that we loft fight of land ; however, towards eleven o'clock, the fog difperfing, Me faw the Barren Ifiands, bearing North North Weft, about three leagues diftant ; on this I fteered North Weft by North, in order to run to the Weft- ward of them ; intending, if poftible, to make the inlet, already mentioned, near Cape Bede; as we had thick, rainy weather, with figns of an approaching gale* Whilft ftanding on in this diredion, the lead was kept going; but we got no bottom with thirty fathoms of line. At one o'clock the Wefternmoft part of the Barren Ifles bore Eaft North Eaft, three miles diftant ; on this I ftood over for Cape Bede, fteering North by Eaft, under double-reefed topfails, with a ftrong breeze from the Eaft South Eaft, and thick foggy weather. At four o'clock we faw the land near Cape Bede, bearing North North Eaftj about three leagues diftant. In running from the Barren Ifles we pafled feveral ftrong ripplings of a tide ; and on ftand- ing well in with Point Bede, the wind fhifted to North Eaft and Eaft North, Eaft, blowing in fudden puffs from the land, with rain and dark gloomy weather. I HAULED in as near the fhore as the wind would per- mit ; and when we had brought Cape Bede to bear South 34.° Eaft, four miles diftant, an appear^ce of a harbour prefented itfelf, with a fmall ifland fituated direAly in the entrance, and bearing from South 87** Eaft, to SoUta 81° Eaft, diftant three miles. We ftood for this opening, but made little progrefs, the wind growing light, and the little we had being direftly againft us. Juft at this time XI we NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 99 me were greatly Airprifed to hear the report of a great 'gun ^ \^ ^* ■from the (hore ; it was now very thick over the land, ^-'^ ^ ^ which prevented us from feeing the fmoke of the gun ; Yoir' however, we fired a gun and hoiiied our colours, and pre- ^* "*'^' '•' fently aifterwards fired another, expeAing it would be anfwered. Immediately after our firing the fecond gun another was fired from the (hore, in the ceeded to Co<^'s River in boats. The harbour which I intended to make, they gave me to underftand, was a very good one ; and they ojfFered to take a perfon from the fhip in their boat to examine it. I accepted their offer, and fent Mr. M*Leod along with them to examine the har^ hour and found the entrance, there being fome rocks near it. The Ruffians left us at half paft eight o'clock, and immediately afterwards we came to anchor in thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of coarfe fand and fhells ; Point Bede bearing South 3i*Eafl:, diftant two leagues, and a finall rocky ifiand detached from it, in the fame dire^ion. At the time we anchored it was high water; and on the ebb making, I found it to fet from the North O 2 by -' 100 A VOYAGE TO THE ' 11 ! N by compaiis, and run at the rat6 of two knots per hour, and fall fourteen feet perpendicular. The flood fet di- redtly from the South, and run nearly at the fame rate as Thurfdiyjo. thc ebb. At four o*clock in the morning of the 20th the Ruflian boat returned with Mr. M'Leod, who informed me that the harbour was a very good one, and that there was a fafe paflage into it on either iide the fmall ifland at the entrance. After examining the harbour, Mr. M^Leod landed oa a beaeh juft without the South entrance of it, where the • Ruflians' had taken up their abode. It {hould feem that they only continue here during the fummer feafon, as they had nothing more than tents covered with canvas or ikins to live in. He obferved but few fea-otter (kins amongfl them, and they were moftly green, and appeared as if recently taken from the animal. The RufTian party con- fifted of twenty-five men; they had alfo a number of Indians along with them, who had (kin canoes, and feemed to- be on the moft friendly terms with the Ruffians, which, mclined me to think they were not natives of this place, but brought here from Kodiac or Oonalafka, for the pur- pofe of hunting ; efpecially as Mr. M*Leod could not per^ ceive any Indian habitations near the Ruffian fettlement. The Ruffian chief brought me as a prefent a quantity of fine falmon, fufficient to ferve both fliips for one day j in return for which I gave him fome yams, and direded him how to drefs them ; and likewife fome beef, pork, and a few bottles of brandy.. He made his acknowledgments ia the bcft manner he was able,, and returned on fhore, per- fedly pleafed with his reception,. These NORfH West coast of America. • These people, quite contrary to the Ruflian cuftom, were particularly careful not to get intoxicated ; but 1 have reafon to think, that this caution proceeded rather from a fear of being furprifed by the neighbouring Americans in a ftate of intoxication, than from any diflike they have to liquor ; for Mr. M*Leod inforilaed ime that they were conftantly on their guard, with their arms always ready, and that no man flept without a rifle-barrelled piece under his arm, and his cutlafs and a long knife by his fide. We now began to be in waiit of wood, and the crews flood in need of fome exercife on fliore, therefore I deter- mined to get into the adjacent harbour, and more particu- larly as there was not the leaft appearance of any inhabi- tants neap it ; fo . that our bufinefs could be carried on without danger or moleftation. An additional reafon for making this harbouF was, that during the time our various buflnefs was going forward, I might probably learn from the Ruflians how long'they had been at this place, and what time they intended to ftay; alfo the place where the'r floops lay, as they had none in Cook's River; I likewiib particularly wifhed to know whether they procured their Furs, by bartering with the. natives, or killing the animals. themfelves. At three o'clock in the afternoon a light breeze fpring- ing up from the North North Weft, we weighed anchor, and flood in for the North entrance of the opening. After we were got fome diflance into the harbour, the wind ^iled us, Mid we were obliged to drop an anchor under foot, as there was- a flrong current fetting dire and another party to cut fire- wood. ' None of the natives as yet had made their appearance; but as the Ruffians were conftantly on their guard for fear of being furprifed by the Americans, I judged it prudent that we ftiduld be fo likewifej and accordingly fent a cheft with arms along with the parties on fhore. By noon we got feveral boat loads of wood on board. In the afternoon the (eine was hauled at the head of the bay where we lay, but with little fuccefs, only a few cole- fifh being caught. Whilft we were engaged in this bufi- nefs, the Rufiian chief paid me a vifit, and informed me, that the place where we hauled the feine was not ftocked with filh, but that near his refidence plenty might be caught. I accordingly took the feine thither, and in fe- veral hauls caught about thirty faimon, and a few flat fi(h. This indifferent fuccefs was owing, as my friend the Rufilian told me, to the time of tide, it being then low water, when, for hauling the feine, it fliould be nearly high water. However, he affured me, if I would leave the feine all night, and a man along with it, I fhould have ^04 A VOYAGE TO THE *^ "y^ P- have plenty of fifli the iiext morning. I embraced this offer with great pleafure, and left one of my failors, who had feme little knowledge of the Ruffian language. 1786. Friday 21 . 1 fi ■Ml The ' Ruffian- fettlement, if I may be allowed to call that oHfc where the refidence is only temporary, was fitu- ated on a pleafant piece of f^at land, about three miles in length, and 200 yards over, bounded by a good fandy beach c«i one fide, and a fmall lake of frefh water, which empties itfelf into the fea, on the other. In this lake they catch plenty of fine falmon. The beach terminates at each end in high points of land, which form a fnug bay, where fmall craft might lie with great fafety. The Ruffians were twenty-five in number, exclufive of the Indians, which I now found were brought from Ko- diac and Oonalafka. They had two fkin boats, each cal- culated to row twelve oars, and the thwarts were double banked. I underflood that the chief and the Indians took up their abode in a fmall tent covered with canvas, and the remainder flept under the two boats jufl men- tioned. TiiEY have no bread; their diet feems tocoilfifl princi-. pally of fifh, and a mefs is made of the root of a plant, called by Steller the Serena, which would tafle very well, were it not rendered unpalatable, by being mixed with ani- mal oil: they had alfo fome very good tea, < Amongst the party were three Indian women ; one of tvhom I was informed came from Oonalafka, the others from Kodiac. I COULD NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 105 I COULD perceive that they procured no furs by bar- chap. V. tering with the Americans, and that they got no fea otter *■■ -' ^ -^ fkins, nor indeed furs of any kind, but what the Kodiac loiy.' Indians caught in hunting. " *'' *'* During my ftay amongft the Ruffians, they were all very bufily employed. Some were dreffing green fea otter Ikins, others repairing their boats, and cleaning arms. Moft of the Indians were out on a hunting party; the few left behind were bufied in fitting darts to their fpears, and making fnufF from tobacco, of which they feem very fond, and their women in cooking and repairing canoes. It was very evident that this little party were under great apprehenfions from the Americans. Indeed, the chief gave me to underftand, that they had attempted to furprife them feveral times, which made it abfolutely ne- ceffary for them to be conftantly on their guard. He told me, that they were a fet of favage, cruel people, but fpoke much in favour of the Oonalafka and Kodiac Indians. Having procured all the intelligence I could from tlie Ruffian chief, I returned towards evening on board my own veffel. During the night the weather was very unfettled, and the wind variable ; blowing at times in heavy fqualls from the land, with calms by turns. • • At feven o'clock next morning I fent the whale-boat Saturday 2:. to the Ruffian fettlement, to learn what fuccefs they had had with the feine. The boat returned at nine o'clock, P deeply To6 A VOYAGE TO THE deeply loaded with fine falmon ; part of which I ient on board the Queen Charlotte ; and now having a plentiful fupply of good fifh, the people were no longer upon fait aiur ay 22. pj.Qyj{JQj^s^ ^m jjj jj^^ ^f J^ Jj^^J £{}^ ^j^^J yams felVed tO them. Part of the (hip's crew were fent to cut firewood, and others had liberty given them to recreate themfelves on ihore. Towards noon the Rufiian chief returned my vifit. The fervice he had rendered us in pointing out a fituation where we at any time could catch plenty of fifh, demanded fome addition to my former prefent, and I gave him fe- veral articles, which in my opinion would be ferviceable; fuch as fait, vinegar, port wine, and brandy ; and obferv- ing when I was at his rcfidence that they had boiled fome of the yams I had given them, which feemed to pleafe them very much, I added to my prefent about four hun- dred weight more. Though my new acquaintance and myfelf underftood each other but very imperfedtly, yet he feemed very much pleafed with this mutual exchange of friendly offices, and after (laying on board a (hort time, he took his leave, and returned on (bore. So« M afterwards I went in the whale-boat, accompanied by captain Dixon, to take a furvey of the harbour. On our firft fctting out, we expeded to find a ftrait leading out to fea, but we prcfently found ourfelves mi(taken. The harbour, from the fmall ifland at the entrance, and which obtained the name "of PafTage Ifland, runs up about nine miles, nearly in an Eafl South Eaft diredlion, and after- wards. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. t07 17H6, July. SatuiUs/ wards terminates in a freih water river that branches out in ^ "y^ ^' feveral directions. There are feveral projedling points on each fide the harbour that form very fnug and good bays, with excellent beaches, where a fliip might, if necefl'ary, be hauled on fhore with the greateft fafety ; the depth of water clofe to the beach feven and eight fiithoms. In our way we called on the wooding party, whom \\v found buhly employed. My carpenter informed mc, that he had feen a tree with two holes through it, which appeared to have been made by fwivel fhot; if fo, they probably were fired from a Rufllan floop when hereabouts at the - American Indians, who I am certain have recently inha- bited this neighbourhood, and fled at the approach of the RufHans; for we faw a number of huts fcattered here and there, fome of them very large, and feveral appeared to have been but lately deferted. After determining the ex- tent of the harbour, we landed, and walked up to the frefh water river; being at that time low water, the river was very narrow ; it abounded with falmon, and on the banks we could perceive the tracks of bears and the moofe deer. The flood-tide making foon afterwards, we cm- barked, and rowed into one of the branches, intending to proceed as far up it as pofllblej but on getting into the mouth of the largeft branch, our attention was taken up by a large brown bear coming down to the river. I was in hopes that we fhould have come within mufquet-fliot of him, but he got fight of us, and made off into the woods with much greater fpeed than I imagined a bear could run, and was prefcntly out of fight. . In the courfe of an hour we faw more than twenty bears, but they were all fo ftiy, that we could not fhoot P 2 one. loB' K" a: 17S6.' AVOYAGE TO THE one. :? Night tioW coming on, we left the fliore, and got on board about ten o*clock. ^ Tadityis. By the 25th wc had completed our wood and water, and the ftiips were ready for fea; fo that I waited with im- patience for ail opportunity of proceeding up the river, as there was a probability of meethig with inhabitants, and confequently wc flood a chance of procuring furs. At prefent, however, the ^nd was light and variable, frequently inclining to Jc^lm, and the' weather thick and foggy. In the afternoon I weiit along with captain Dixon to look into a bay fituated to the EsSward or the North point of the harbour. We found it a pretty good one, carry- ing foundings in fourteen, twelve, and eight fathom water, over a bottom of fine black fand. We landed on the Weft fide of the bay, and in walking round it difcovered two veins of kennel coal, fituated near fome hills juft above the beach, about the middle of the bay; and with , very little trouble feveral pieces were got out of the bank, nearly as large as a man's head. From this bay we rowed acrofs for the entrance leading into the harbour to the Southward of Paflage Ifle, and found plenty of wa- ter ; but the paiTage much narrower than the Northern ome. The beft time to run into this harbour is as near low water as pofilble. Whatever danger there is may then be feea either from the beds of kelp, or the rocks fhewing them- felves above waiter. In the evening we returned on board, |ind I tried ibme of the coal we had difcovered, and found it to- bum clear and well. . Widaef.26. At" fix "o'clock in the morning of the 26th, the wea« ther, which for fome time had been very thick, cleared a little. si on M NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. 109 little, and wc began to unmoor. At eight o'clock we ^ "^;* •* weighed and came to fail/ with a light variable breeze. At ^-^ - ^ ^--^ nine o'clock the wind came to the Northward and Weft- juiy.' ward; and the Queen Charlotte being to the Northward ^''^"^- '^' of us, was enabled to lie out, but I could not accomplidi it. The flood-tide making in, and finding we fct very fafl towards PafTage Ifle, we brought up, and being ex- ceedingly anxious to get into the main river, began warp- ing againfl the tide. The Queen Charlotte got clear out, and I made her a fignal to anchor, which fhe obeyed. About eleven o'clock it began to blow very frefli from the North North Weft, with conftant rain, and we were obliged again to bring up. At noon the weather grew moderate, and we endeavoured by every means to get out to fea, but found it a difficult matter to accomplifh, owing to the un- certainty of the tide, and the wind continually fliifting* However, at eight o'clock, having worked out as far as the outer rocks, a breeze fprung up from the Southward,, with which we made all fail, and got out, though wc pafled very near a ledge of rocks to the Northward : when a-breaft of that ledge, we were driven paft it in a hurry by the flood-tide, which took us and carried us very faft to the Northward. Soon afterwards the breeze failed us, and I was afraid of coming too near fome funken rocks^ fituated to the Northward and Eaftward of the North, ledge; therefore run a warp out to check the fliip. The breeze coming on again in a fliort time, we flipped the warp, and run further oflF, and at ten o'clock brought-ta for the yaul, which I had fent to weigh the kedge. At eleven o'clock the boat came on board, and about the lame time we joined the Queen Charlotte, and found flie- was nearly under way. During the night we had light airs, andf 110 CHAP. V. We A VOYACITO THE and the tide carried us very laft to the North Eaft into a —•p-' deep opening, which is formed by Anchor Point, and the July! land to the North Eaft of Point Bede. Our depth of wa- ter was tdo much for anchoring, being upwards of fixty fathoms; fo that we were uncfcr the. neceffity of waiting Thurfdsya;. for a brcczc to pu(h out again. At five o'clock in the morning a light breeze came on from the Eaftward, with which we ftood North North Weft for Anchor Point, hav- ing got out of the opening with the ebb tide. The lead was kept conftantly going, and we had foundings from forty-eight to thirty fathoms water, over a bottom of fine grey fand. At noon Point Bede bore South by Eaft half Eaft, and Anchor Point North 21° Weft, diftant from the neareft land about five leagues. The latitude, by obfervation, was 59° 34.'' North. We ftretched up the river, with light breezes from the Southward and Eaftward, till half paft five o'clock, when the flood-tide being fpent, we came-to with the ftream- Anchor in twenty fathoms water, over a rocky bottom : Anchor Point bearing North 33* Eaft, five miles diftant; the Volcano Mount North 86° Weft ; the North land in fight on the Weftern fliore. North 24.° Weft ; and an ap- pearance of an opening on the Weft fide. North 63° Weftu A LARGE column of fmoke iffued from the fummit of Mount Volcano, but no fiery eription was to be feen; neither could we perceive any fir :s, or other figns of the coaft being inhabited on either fide the river, which was rather remarkable, as the adjacent country feemed pleafant, and NORTH WEST C0A3T OF AMERICA. c n July. ThufUty »7, and well flickered from the inclemency of the weather. This inclined mc to think that thcRuflians uc foimd in Coal Harbour had been up the river and quat elled with the natives ; and I' began to fear that our fuccefs in the river would be very fmall ; however, I determined to (land on, and leave nothing unattcmpted towards attaining the prin- cipal object of our voyage. At ten o'clock we weighed and ftood up the river witJi the flood and a light brcc/.e from the Southward. Tlie ebb making ftrong at eight r,ijay tu o'clock in the rv iin:>;g, we could not ftcm it with a light breeze;, iijuttbrc r.u'.lion.d in twenty-four fathoms, over a rocky boirom ; Anchor Point bearing South, 30" Eaft, diflant iivc 1< agues; the V-jlciino Mount South Weft half Weft : *ac extn.mf^s of nn i'lapfi on thr Weft fliore, from Norc!., 62"* Weft, to N'jrrh; 48"' Wtfl, diftant about five Ip^gues, At thrit tirjfir.' vc aacho'xd, the tide run four . miles un hour » '[he ebh kxt\nf, from the North by Eaft, and the fl'-ic' fvniv the S.atK by Weft, and about half- tide JK run nciiijy five inilcj an how, v)ur latitude was 6o* 9' North, md v e fau'id ^3" i c/ Eafterly variation* The land on the V/t;ftern fide nti* the fliore appearing very plcafarit, and li^vcly to be lariulittd, I determined to ftand over and look for afichorage. At four o'clock a point of land v/-hich contracts the river to the Weftward bore North 54." Weft, five miles diftant. We now had fbundirgs from 20 to 25 f;.t^cms> of water over a rocky bot- tom; but after hauling round the point, we flioalcd it, and at Cls: o'clock, having thirteen fathoms water over a fliingly bottom, we ctune-to with the beft bower ; the Northern- moft land In fight on the Weft fliore, bearing North 2o'*Eaft> and the diftance from the neareft land about five miles. Jif A P. 9 112 A VOYAGE TO THE C H A P. VL Indians come to the Ships with Furs. — Shew a thieving Difpojition. — Bring great ^antities of Salmon to bar- ter. — Short Defcription of the Country nearTrading Bay, — Climate. — Produce. — the Ships leave Trading Bay^ and proceed down the River. ^—Requefled by the Indians to join with them againjl the Ruffians. — Prefents given at parting. — Leave Cook's River^ and proceed towards Prince William s Sound. — Prevented from making it by contrary Winds. — Proceed along the Coafl,—Difap~ pointed in meetijig with Crofs Sound. c HA p. QOON after we anchored, two fmall canoes came off •^ from the fliore, nearly a-breaft of the fliip, and went along-fide the Queen Charlotte. I afterwards learnt that they had nothing to barter, except a few dried falmon, which captain Dixon purchafed for beads ; and al(b made them a few prefents, in order to convince them that our intentions were friendly, and that we wifhed to trade with them in a peaceable manner. They feemed to comprehend captain Dixon's meaning, and promifed to bring furs the Saturday ag. following day. About fcvcn o'clock the next morning we had the pleafure of feeing two large canoes and feveral fmall ones pufhing off from the fliore. The large canoes contained about twenty people each ; the fmall ones held bun one, or at moft two perfons. When at fome diftancc from us they joined in a fong, which was continued for a confldcr- 1786. July. Friday 28. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. "5 coniiderable length of time ; and afterwards came along- ^ "^j^ •*• fide, extending their arms as a token of their pacific in- < - . ^ tentions, and many of them held up green plants, pro- juiy. bably for the fame motive. Moft of thefe Indians had ""''^'' *'* their faces daubed entirely over with red oker and black lead, which gave them a very difgufting appearance ; their nofes and ears were in general ornamented with fmall blue beads or teeth, and they had a ilit cut in the under lip, in a line parallel with the inouth, which was adorned in a fimilar manner. We procured from this party near twenty fea-otter (kins, and a few cloaks made of the earlefs marmot flcins fewed together very neatly. They traded in a fair open manner, and were very importunate with us to go on (hore. I intreated one of them, who appeared to be a chief, to come on board, which he declined at firft, un- lefs I (ent one of the failors into his canoe as an hoflage ; but whilft I was fpeaking with him, one of his com- panions ventured on board, and prefently afterwards the chief and feveral others followed his example ; however, to convince them that they were perfedlly fafe, I fent one of my people into their boat, agreeably to the chief's requeft. After ftaying on board fome time, and gratifying their curiofity with looking at the veflel, they left us and paddled on fhore, feemingly well fatisfied with their re- ception. From this favourable beginning, I was inclined to think we could not change our fituation for a better, therefore determined to keep it a few days ; accordingly we fighted the beft bower, and moored with it to the Southward, and the ftream to the Northward. Our obfcrvation at noon gave 60" 49' latitude. CL On 114 CHAP. VI. 1786. July. Sonday 30. Augull. Vhutfda/j. A VOYAGE TO THE On the 30th we were vifited by feveral canoes, from whom we purchafed fome good fea-otterfkins, together with feveral marmot cloaks, racoons, and foxes ; they alfo brought u» plenty of excellent frefh falmon, which we obtained for beads and buttons. Our traffic for fome days was much in the fame ftate, and the behaviour of the natives was very quiet and peaceable ; however, according to Indian cuftom, they made no fcruple of thieving, and fome that were on board the King George on the 3d Auguft, gave us a fpecimen of their talents in that line, by ftealing the hook from a block- ftrap, and a grindftone-handlc, which being made of iron, was no doubt reckoned a prize. I did not however think it prudent to ufe violence with them for thefe trifling depredations, and contented myfelf with or- dering a good look-out to be kept, to prevent their Aealing any thing in future. An elderly chief went on board the Queen Charlotte, from whom captain Dixon gathered fome information re- fpeding the Ruffians. He clearly imderftood from the old man's pointing to the guns, smd defcribing the ex- plofion they made, as well as from other circumflances, that there had lately been a battle between the Ruffians and the natives, in which the Ruffians were worfled : the chief at the fame time intimated, that they would not quarrel with us on that account, as he was certain we be- longed to another nation, from the difference in our drefs. How this quarrel originated we could not learn, but moft probably it was occafioned by theft. The Indians, on leaving the fhip, gave us to under- fland that their neighbourhood was drained of furs, but that they NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. r»5 they would go to procure more in the adjacent country. ^ "^j^ ^* In the afternoon a ftrong gale of wind canie on, which ' — p^^ continued till the forenoon of the 5 th, varying from South Auguit. Sr-ith Eaft to South South Weft. A confiderable fea fet ^'"'"^•*' ^• i:it( the bay, that caufed the fhips to ride very heavy, but we found much more fo at flack water than at any other time. This difference I imagine to be occafioned by our lying in a different tide to what there is in the ftream ; fo that during the time of low water a fea rolls in ; but as foon as the tide makes in the ftream, it runs :along the mouth of the bay, and breaks off the fea con- fiderably. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, the wea- ther growing moderate, one large canoe and feveral fmall ones came a)ong-lide, bringing us four good fea-otter fkins, a few martins, racoons, and foxes, and plenty of fine falmon. The large canoe had been abfent two days, to trade for furs in various parts of the river, and the people now gave us to underftand that the adjoining country was entirely drained of fkins, and that they could not procure any more. One of the Indians in the large ca- noe had a very good Nankin frock, and another a blue frock, which they wanted to fell : feveral of them had a number »of fmall blue glafs beads, which they feemed very fond of, .but the frocks were held in very little eftimation. Thefe articles muft doubtlefs have been procured from the Ruf- fians previous to their quarrel, and foon after they came into the river. I was inclined to believe the information we obtained from our vifiters refpe tiful and pi<^urefque. During the late ftormy unfettled weather, the air had been mild and temperate, and I am inclined to think that the climate here is not fo fevere as has been generally fup- pofed; for, in the courfe of our traffic with the natives, they frequently brought berries of feveral forts, and in par- ticular blackberries, equally fine with thofe met with in England. Besipes the various forts of furs met with here, a.nd which have already been enumerated, Cook's River proi- duces native fulphur, ginfeng, fnake root, black leadi coal, together with the greateft abundance of fine falmon ; and the natives behave quietly and barter fairly ; jTo that a moft I profitably: NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. profitable trade might doubtlefs be carried on here by any perfons of fufficient enterprife to undertake it. vrgr CHAP. VI. V- — .'— ^ 1786. Augufl; Towards midnight the gale fubfided, and at three "^"^"'^•9- o'clock in the morning of the lotha light breeze coming Tharfdiyw. on from the North North Eaft, we began to unmoor. At five o'clock we weighed, and came to fail with a moderate breeze at North Eaft. Soon after we got under fail, the wind began to haul round to the South Eaft; and finding that the ebb-tide fet us in towards the South point of the bay we had juft left (and which obtained the Name of Trading Bay}, it became neceflary to haul the wind clofe. Juft as we got a-breaft of the point, we were taken by a very rapid tide fetting to the South Weft (which was a di- redion very different to what we expeded); and there being little wind, and that little Southerly, we were not able to get out of the tide, though a very little pufh would have done it ; for the South South Eaft tide line was juil without us. Immediately afterwards I faw a dry (hoal bear- ing South Weft, right in the direction of the tide's courfe, and we were driving for it at the rate of five ihiles an hour. I prefently faw that there was no other method of avoid- ing this ftioal than by anchoring, and was glad to find we had clear ground ; therefore anchored immediately in eleven fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark fand inclining to mud. The Queen Chnrlotte came-to at the fame time^ about half a mile to the Weft ward of us. The South Point of Trading Bay bore North 24* Weft, four miles diftant; the Eaft point of an ifland to the South- ward of us, South 5* Eaft, and the North Eaft point of the flioal South 14° Eaft, diftant a quarter of a mile. At I20 CHAP. VI A VOYAGE TO THE At low water the flioal was dry for about a mile and a -» half, extending from North Kaft to South Weft. It ap- Auguft. pearcd to be a bank of black -muddy fand, flat on every Thutfiiyio. ^jj^^ g^j ^j^g ^^^gj. f^ fmooth all round, that if we had drifted on it, in all probability we (Kould not have received any injury. However, as we had little wind, and fine clear weather, I fent my whale -boat to found all round it. Within this flioal to the Wcftward the land appeared very high, and in many places covered with fnow. Near the fea was a narrow flip of low land covered with pines, and there appeared fome openings like harbours; but time would not admit of my fending the boat to examine them. I faw a rock from the maft-head, which is covered before high water in the direction of North half Eaft, from the Eaftern point of that ifland to the Southward of us, and forms part of a flioal that appears to ftretch out two or three miles. A rock was alfo feen about half a mile from the South point of Trading Bay, which, to- gether with the flioals, makes the navigation in this part of the river much more dangerous than it was fuppofed to be. Whilft we lay at anchor, feveral fmall canoes came ofF from a town near the South point of Trading Bay. In one of them was a man whom I had found very ufeful in procuring furs during our ftay in the bay ; on which ac- count he was called " the Factor" I clearly underftood from him, that the Ruflians frequented the Weft fide of the ifland to the Southward, and that there is a paiTagc betwixt that and the main; if fo, I think it muft be greatly incommoded with flioals, and dangerous on ac- count of the rapidity of the tides. My friend the Fador brought nothing to difpofe of except a few falmon. It feems, his principal motive in paying me this vifit was, to / beg NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. beg our ailiftancc againft the Ruflians. He was very im- portunate wkh me to grant his requefl;, intimating at the lame time that he could prefently aflemble a large fleet of canoes, with which, afllfled by our (hips, they could eafily get the better of their enemies. On my refufing his re- qucft, he feemed rather mortified; but to confole him in iome meafure for this difappointment, I gave him a light Jiorfeman's cap, of which he was very proud; and his countrymen beheld him with fuch a mixture of admira- tion and envy, that I greatly qucftion whether he will be able to keep it long in his pofl'efTion. I alfo diftributed a few trifles amongft the other Indians, and they returned on fliore perfectly fatisficd, notwithftanding I rcfufcd to efpoufe their caufe againft the Ruflians. At one o'clock the whale-boat returned from found- ing, and the oflicer who was in her informed me, that he found four and five fathoms water about half a mile from the flioal, and all round it near the fame depth over a bot- tom of black muddy fand, the tide running at the rate of four miles an hour. Soon after four o'clock, the flood being nearly done, we weighed and ftretched over for the Eafl:ern fliore, with a light breeze from the South South Eaft. After getting about two miles to the Eaftward, the water deepened fo much, that we got no ground with fixty fathoms of line ; but after pafling the mid channel, we ftruck the ground in thirty-four fathoms water, o\cr n fhingly bottom, and the water flioaled gradually as wc lul- viinced towards the Eaftem fliorc. About nine o'clock we anchored in fixteen fathoms water, over a fhingly bottom, us I judged the ebb to have been done; but it run down R near Iff 1786. AuguH. ThurlSty 10. C H A VI. 17S6. Auguft. If A VOYAGE TO THE **• near an hour longer than I expeAed. When at anchor) -* the South point of Trading Bay bore North 46° Weft. The extremes of the idand on the Weftern ftiore South 65* Weft, and South 30' Weft, diftant from the neareft land on Frida/ii. the Eaft fhore about two leagues. Next morning at half paft five o'clock, the flood-tide being done, we weighed and made fail with a light breeze at South South Weft, and car- ried foundings along ftiore about two leagues diftant, from fifteen to twenty fathoms, over a ftiingly bottom. At eight o'clock, the North point of an iiland on the Weftern ftiore bore North 84* Weft, fix leagues, and fome rocks that are fituated two miles from the Eaftern ftiore. South 5 3" Eaft, three leagues diftant. Thefe rocks make their appearance at all times of tide, yet are not noticed in captain Cook's chart of the river, but are in Mr. Edgar's, who was mafter of the Difcovery ; he I think lias laid them down about a league too far to the Southward. We tacked at nine o'clock, and foon afterwards faw a number of canoes, which at firft I concluded were traders coming off to the ftiip ; but on looking at them through a glafs, I perceived two Ruftlan boats amongft them; they were about a league to the Northward of us, and appeared to be ftanding over for the ifland on the Weftern fliore : juft at this time the breeze from the South South Weft frefliening, the boats fet their fails, and puftied over for the iftimd. They no doubt were the fame party we met at Coal Harbour ; and probably the Fador's intelligence, refpeding their having a fettlcmcnt on the Weft nde of that ifland, was true. Lt !: ! Having i NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «33 Having in general light variable winds, with calms by ^ "y^^ ^• turns, we took the advantage of the tide in (landing down ^ ^ - -^ the river, and by noon on the 1 3th were well clear of it. Augaa. At that time the extremes of the Barren Iflands bore South ^^"'^'^ '^' Weft and South, 38* Weft; Cape Elizabeth North, 8o» Weft, diftant about five leagues; and our diftance from the neareft fhore about three leagues. The land on which Cape Elizabeth is fituatcd is an ifland, and in the ftraits formed by it and the back land there is good anchorage and fhelter. Hereabouts would be a moft dcfirable litu- ation for carrying on a whale-fiftiery ; the whales being on the coaft, and clofc in fhore, in vaft numbers ; and there being convenient and excellent harbours quite handy for the bufinefs. The Barren Iflands, which are fituatcd nearly in the midway between Point Banks and Cape Elizabeth, are very high and totally barren ; they lie in a clufter, and appear to have good pafTages between them. With a fine breeze from the Weft South Weft we ftood along-lliore, at the diftance of three leagues, fteering Eaft by North for Prince William's Sound. The lead was kept conftantly - going, but we got no ground with forty fathoms of line. At eight o'clock I changed the courfc to' North Eaft half Eaft, in order to make the South Weft point of Montague Ifland ; the Wefternmoft land in fight bearing Weft South Weft, and the Eafternmoft North by Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant. Light variable winds, with intervening calms and hazy weather, prevented us from making any great progrefs to- wards the entrance into Prince William's Sound. At two o'clock in the afternoon of the 17th, having nearly a Tharfaiyi;; calm, and the current fetting us dire:l bore from. Weft half North to North North Weft half Weft, diflant from the neareft part of it fewen or eight leagues. At fix o'clock the land in fight bore Weft by South and North Eaft.. The land to the North Eaft ap- peared to be two low iftands, which I conjedured were iituatcd between Kayes Iftand and the land of Cape Hinchinbrooke; at the fame time the points of an opening, which I took for the Eaftern paflage into Prince William's Sound, bore North Weft half North, and North North Weft, diftant five or fix leagues. Having a moderate breeze from the North Eaft, and fine weather, we ftood in towards the opening till eight o'clock, when the wind hauled to the North North Eaft, which laid us oft' fo much that we could not fetch in ; therefore we tacked and ftood to the Eaft ward under an eafy fail, in- MonJayis. tending to try for the paflage next morning. At two o'clock we wore, and fteered North by Weft half Weft,, with a breeze from the North Eaft by North. At four o'clock, having a frcfh gale at North Eaft, and fine clear weather, I cxpedcd from the courfe we had been fteering during the night that we fliould have had the fmall iflands, fccn by us the preceding evening, bearing about North by Eaft, and diftant about four miles ; from which fituation, with, ihc North Eaft wind we now had, we could have run into the paflage with a large wind ; but I was much fur}>rired to fee the fmall iflands bearing North Eaft by Nordi, and diftant about nine leagues ; fo much had the current driven u-^ oft" fliore during the night. Hovvtver, we ftood to the North North Weft under all the fail wc could fet ; hoping, if the weather remained fettled, that we might be able before night came on to get into the - • pafl:igc, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 129 CHAP. VI. <■ — ■■' ^ 1786. Augull. paffagc, and anchor there ; fo that if the wind failed us, we might be able to work in to the Sound with the tide ; but at feven o'clock it began to blow very frefh, with thick hazy weather, and every appearance of an approach- '^°'"**'' *^' ing gale, the land entirely hid with a thick fog. Under thcfe circumftances I did not think it prudent to run iii for the paffage ; therefore at half pad feven o'clock we tacked and flood to the South Eaft. I now gave up all thoughts of getting into the Sound this feafon ; there- fore determined to quit this part of the coaft immediately, and ftand to the Southward, where there was a probability of meeting with more favourable w^eather. With a frefli gale from the Eaft North Eaft, we fteered South Eaft by South, the weather ftill thick and foggy, attended udth rain. During the night we frequently founded with eighty fathoms of line, but got no bottom ► The wind never fixed at one point for any length of ' time, but varied continually ; fometimes blowing frefh and in fqualls, with alternate calms and thick rainy weather. On the 4th of September, finding myfelf very indif- septen ber. ferent, I fcnt for captain Dixon to come on board, in- *^°'"'*^ ^ tending, fhould my illncfs increafe fo as to prevent me from keeping tLe deck, for tho Queen Charlotte to take the lead, and make for Crofs Sound, from thence to Cape Edgecdnibc, and afterwards to King George's Sound, where we liftd before detemiined to winter, and build a flialop of about fixty or feventy tons burthen, if we were for- tunate cnoiijrh to ffet in before the winter feafon fct in fo § bad I30 CHAP. VI. V. — >- J 1786. September. Tuefday j. Saturday 9. ^^1 A VOYAGE TO THE bad as" to prevent us from making the neceffaiy prepara- tions for efFedting that puvpofe. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 5th wc faw the land making in two very high mountains, one of which bore North North Weft half Weft, and the other Nortli North Weft half Weft, diftant fourteen or fifteen leagues. Thefe mountains we fuppofcd to be Mount Saint Elias and Mount Fairweatlier, according to their fituation in captain Cook's chart. We now had light variable airs, which caufed us to ply occafionally, and retarded our progrefs very much. Our latitude at noop was 58° 16' North, and the longitude 140° 3'. In the afternoon, finding myfelf fo ill as not to be able to keep the deck, I dcfired my firft mate to fpeak the Queen Charlotte, and requeft captain Dixon to take the lead, which he accordingly did. In the forenoon of the 9th, Mount Fairweather was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft. This mountain is fituated a little to the North- ward and Eaftward of Crofs Sound. At noon, having a moderate breeze from the South Eaft by Eaft, with open cloudy weather, we ftood in ftiore to the North Eaft by Eaft ; the land in fight extending from Eaft North Eaft to North Noith Eaft half Eaft, and a low point North Eaft half Eaft, four or five leagues diftant. Our latitude then was 57° 54', and the longitude 137" 58'. At two o'clock, the wind being then at Eaft South Eaft, our courfe was changed to North Eaft, in order to made Crofs Sound; but in a few hours afterwards, being well in with it, captain Pixon hailed, and defircd my firft mate to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 131 to acquaint me, that he faw no appearance of a port in ^ "yj^ '* the fituation laid down in captain Cook's chart for Crofs * > '. Sound ; but that what captain Cook took for an opening Septta>b«r, in the land, was nothing more than a deep valley with '^""'•'■J'9* low land in it, which, at the condderable diftance he was from the ftiore, might eafily be miftaken for a deep opening, and confequently a good harbour might be expeded. ~^» S 2 ;l| »S?t ,H A .AOI^A -V O Y A^ta B Tt): THE ;?0H G H A P. VII. ■A Fruhlefs Attempt to fall in with the Bay of Jflands.—^ ■ Proceed along the Coafl towards King George's Sound.-^ Unfuccefsful Attempt to make it. — Departure from the Coajl. — Pajfage from thence to the SanddDich Iflands. — Saint Maria la Gort a. -—Arrive off Oivhyhee. — Refrep- ments obtained, — Natives Propenfty to Theft. — Plan of future Proceedings. — TTse Ships leave Owhyhee. — Pick up a Canoe with feme Indians in Difirefs. — Anchor at IVoahoo* HA p. T^OT falling in with Crofs Sound, as was expelled, — .-L_» "^^ and having no fpare time to look for it in any other fituation, we tacked at four o'clock, and ftood to the Southward with a moderate breeze from the Eaft South Eaft, and dark unfettled looking weather : the land in fight extending from North North Weil to Eaft South Eaft, about four leagues diftant from the nwrcft part. Sunday 10. The wiud contiuucd moderate till four o'clock the next morning, when a ftrong gale came on from the North Eaft, attended with heavy rain. At nine o'clock the wind fhifted to Eaft South Eaft, the gile increaftng with thick rainy weather, which obliged us to hand the top- fails and reef the courfes. Towards noon the gale gradually fubfided, and at ftx o'clock v.e had a light breeze from the South South Weft, with a very heavy croil> Tea, which caufed 1786. September. Saturday 9. V \ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »33 p. caufed the (hip to labour cxcerdingly. During the night ^ ^\,^f we had light variable winds with conftant rain : this how- ' — -- — ' ever was not of long continuance ; for at noon on the September. nth a heavy gale fprung up from the Eaft South Eaft j Mond.yn. the rain dill continuing without intermifHon. The almoft conftant fucccllion of bad weather we for fomc time paft had experienced, induced me to think that the bad weather feafon was fet in, and that our making a port on the coaft would be very precarious ; in that cafe we fliould be obliged to water, and fpend the winter at the Sandwich Iflands. Under this confideration, I judged it prudent to put the (hip's company to an allowance of water at the rate of two quarts a man a day. The gale continued to blow from the Eaft ward and wednef. 13. Southward, with very little intermiftion, till noon on the 13th; it then grew moderate. Our latitude then was 56* 37', and the longitude 138° 31'. Having then a moderate breeze from the South by Eaft, we fteered Eaft North Eaft, in order to make the land near Cape Edgecombe. At ' nine o'clock the wind fliifted to the South Weft, blowing frcfli, with hazy weather. At midnight we hauled the wind to the Southward, and at five o'clock the next morning bore away and made Thiirfjayi4. fail, ftanding in for the land with a moderate brcoze at South Weft. At fix o'clock the land near Cudc HJ je- combe was fecn bearing North Eaft by NortJi, and at eight the land in fight extended from North half Weft to North North Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the neareft 5 part 134 CHAP. VII. i;C6, Efpteinber. Ihurl'day 1 1. A VOYAGE TO THE part four or five leagues. We now ftood to the North bv Eaft, in order to gain the fituation laid down by captain Cook for the Bay of 1 (lands, where we had great hopes of making a good port ; but after getting within two leagues of the land, no pLice could be difcovered which had the appearance of a harbour, or even a fafe bay : at the fame time we could get no ground with eighty fathoms of line. Juft before noon, nothing like a harbour making its appearance, and obferv- ing a ledge of rocks to the Northward of us ftretching fome diftancc from the (hore, towards which a current was fweeping us very faft, captain Dixon (who ftill took the lead) thought it moft prudent to haul off (ht)rc to the Weftward ; at the fame time the wind backed a little to the Southward, which enabled us to clear the reef. We (hould not have been in much danger, had there been a commanding breeze ; but we unfortunately had light winds, and a confiderable fwell rolling on towards the fhore, againft which the Ihip could fcarcely ftcer or make any way. The latitude at noon was 57° 6' and 136° 40' longitude. Friday 15. li During the afternoon we ha on which the fea frequently breaks. At feven o'clock wc hauled ofF the land and ftood South Weft by Weft, the wind then blowing frefti at North Weft by Weft ; and Saturday aj. and at daylight next morning wore fliip and fteered North half NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »37 C H A P. ' ipicmber. halfEaft. The land at noon extending from Eaft by South to Weft North Weft half Weft, we ftccred Eaft North Eaft, with a moderate breeze from the North Wcf by North, and pleafant weather. Our latitude then wau 49*48', and the longitude 127* 8'. At two o'clock, ■feeing a canoe putting off from the fhorc, we fhortened fail and brought-to for her to come up ; (he had two In- dians in her, but wc could not prevail on either of them to conic on board : they had fomc fifh which wc bought, ami I made them a few trifling prcfents ; after which they left us and paddled for that part of the ftiore between Woody Point and King George's Sound. At live o'clock the North Point of the entrance into King George's Sound bore North, 73° Eaft ; the breakers that lie oft' that point Eaft half North, three leagues diftant : the Eaftcrn- moft land in fight South, 73" Eaft, diftant eight or nine leagues, and theWcfternmoft land Weft by North half North, thirteen leagues diftant. Having light winds and hazy wea- ther, we found it impradlicable to reach the Sound before night ; therefore hauled to the South South Eaft. In the courfe of the evening we frequently founded, and had from fifty-four to fixty-two fathoms water over a mudd/ bottom. During the night we plied occafidnally, with light variable winds and hazy weather. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 24th the haze clearing away, wc faw Sund«;i4. the land about the Sound, the North point of the en- trance bearing North Eaft by Eaft, nine or ten leagues diftant. The wind being ftill light, and frequently in- clining to calm, our progrefs towards the Sound was very flow. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 25th the MonJ.iyij. North point of the entrance bore North, 61° Eaft, three leagues diftant : having a light breeze at South by Eaft, T we .SuM^O. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^ ^/ .^ f/> 1 I 1.0 1.25 ■filM 125 1^ IIIII2.0 us lit K t HiotQgraphic _Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4503 -^ i\ m <^ "o. 6^ A^ i t 138 A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP VII. 1786. September. Monday 35 we fteered Eaft by South, expcfting to gain the entrance ; but at five o'clock the light breeze we had fhifted to South Eaft, and a current fet us ftrongly to the North North Weft ; fo that it was impofllble for us to fetch into the Sound ; and night coming on, we tacked and ftood to the South Weft by South. About fix o'clock the wind began to freftien at South Eaft, with every appearance of afi ap- proaching gale: therefore I thought it moft advifable to get a little offing before it came on ; as thofe gales from the South Eaft, after blowing hard awhile in that quarter,, generally haul to the Southward, and blow with great violence; in which cafe the land of the Bay of Good Hope all becomes a lee and dangerous fliore. At eight o'clock the horizon to the South and South Eaft looked re~ markably red and wild, with ftrong flafties of light- ning in thofe boards. At ten the wind blew very frefli from the Eaft South Eaft, with thick weather and hard rain ; at that time we wore and ftood in Ihore to the North Eaft, with an intention of keeping pretty near the entrance of the Sound, in order to be ready for puftiing into it the next morning, fhould an opportunity offer ; but at eleven o'clock the gale increafed fo faft upon us^ that all hands were barely fufficient to make the fhip fnug enough for its reception. At midnight we wore and ftood to the South by Weft ; immediately afterwards an exceed- / ing heavy guft of wind came on, which obliged us to clew the topfails down on the cap ; the forefail (although a very fmall one, made purpofely for a foul-weather fail) gave way at both clews, and both the foot and leech ropes broke fliort off ; yet we fortunately got the fail made fnug before it fplit, unbent it, and bent a new one. At three Tuciday 26. o'clock the wiud fliifted to the South Eaft, and blew a mere NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »39 mere hurricane, which brought on a very heavy fea, and ^ ^j} ^• occafioned the fhip to labour and ftrain exceedingly. It *'^ - -* certainly was the inoft dreadful night I ever faw, and to September, add to the awful fcene of a tremendous fea, loud thunder, "* *^^ ' fierce lightning, and torrents of rain, we had at each maft-head, and at every yard-arm, thofe meteors called by failors compafantSy which gave a light at leaft equal to the fame number of lights hung aloft : befides thofe on the mafts and yards, they were flying about on all parts of the rigging. It is the generally received opinion of feafaring men, that when the compafant reaches the topgalknt-maft- heads, the gale is at or near its height, and indeed we found it fd^; for about half part three, after a moft vio- lent gufl of wind, which did not continue more than two or three minutes, the clouds began to break, and the weather became more moderate, the wind inclining to the South Eaft by South. At fix o'clock it fell almoft calm, and we had a prodigious heavy fea from the South South Eaft ; foon afterwards we faw the land near the entrance into King George's Sound, bearing Eaft North Eaft, five or fix leagues diftant, on which we ftood for it with a very light breeze at Weft, the weather looking urifettled, and a very heavy crofs fea running. By two in the afternoon it grew nearly calm ; and finding all our efforts to get into the Sound ineffedlual, we hauled off fliore to the Southward. Light airs, with intervening calms, prevailed till four o'clock in the morning of the 27th, when a frefh gale wedner. 27. fprung up at South Eaft by Eaft, attended with thick T 2 rainy ,J<(' tV!.. 140 A VOYAGE TO THE HAP. VII. 1786. September. Wednef. zj. M rainy weather ; we now ftood to the North Eaft by Eart ; but the wind (hifted every hour, fo that there was not a poflibility of keeping our courfe. At eight o'clock, having a moderate breeze at South Weft, we fleered Eaft North Eaft; at the fame time the land made its appear- ance through the haze, bearing from North North Weft to Eaft North Eaft. This breeze, however, was of fhort duration ; for in the fpaee of an hour it grew nearly calm, and continued light and variable till four in the afternoon, when a little breeze fprung up from the South Weft^ but judging with fo light a breeze that we could not reach the Sound before night (our diftance from it being about fix leagues), we ftood to the South South Eaft, with an intention of fpending the night in ftanding off and on,, and then, if an opportunity offered at daylight, to run into the Sound. During the former part of the night the wind blew frefh and in fqualls, with frequent heavy fliowers of hail; this was fucceeded by light variable winds Thurfdayzs. and thick rainy weather^ At fix o'clock next morning we tacked and bore away to the North Eaft, the weather hazy, and a prodigious heavy fwell from the South Weft. The North point of the entrance into King George's Sound at eight o'clock bore North Eaft half North, diftant four leagues, and the Wefternmoft land in fight North Wefli. by North, fix leagues diftant. At nine it fell calm, and the heavy fwell continuing from the South Weft, and a ftrong current fetting to the North North Eaft drove us very faft towards the fliore, and fome breakers that are fituated to the Northward and Weft ward of the entrance into the Sound. At firft I had fome thoughts of get- ting our boats out to tow the fliip's head round, and to keep her off fhore ; but the motion of the ftiip was fo H great. S NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 1786. September. Thurfday 28. great, occafioned by the fwell, that it would hardly have ^ ^jj been poflible to have hoifted them out without dafliing them to pieces ; indeed, if they had been out they could have had no effedt on the fliip againft Co heavy a ■fwell rolling diredlly on (hore. It continued calm till eleven o'clock, at which time we were very near the breakers, and the fwell feeming to increafe as we ap- proached the (hore, I was preparing to anchor with one of the bowers in fixty-four fathoms water, when a light breeze fprung up at South Eaft ; this was, in the fituation we then were, almoft diredly from the entrance into the Sound ; fo that we could not make it, and had no alternative left but to get the fhip's head off fhore^ and get an offing as well as we couldv At noon the breeze freshened at South Eaft, and we flood to the South Weft ; at the f^-^Q time an exceeding heavy fwell rolled in fhore, which broke in a frightful furf on the rocks and breakers : the North point of the entrance into King George's Sound bore North, 65° Weft, ^our or five leagues diftant ; our diftance from the breakers one mile and a half, and from the neareft land about three miles. 141 HAP. In the afternoon we had light baffling winds, with fre- quent fqualls and heavy fhowers of hail and rain, I NOW faw not the leaft probability of our getting inta the Sound this feafon j the bad weather appeared to be fet in for a continuance, our fails and rigging were much damaged, and the crews ftood greatly in need of refrefh- ment 5 under thefe circumftances, I came to a determi- - nation 142 A VOYAGE TO THE c H jA P. ^^ation of leaving the coaft, and (landing dircAly for the Sandwich Iflands; and hailing the Queen Charlotte, I ac- 1786 September, quaittted Captain Dixon with my intention. Prlday 29. Saturday 30. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 29th we fleered South by Weft with a frefli Wefterly breeze. Woody Point at that time bore North Weft half Weft, the Eaft- ernmoft land in fight Eaft by North, and the entrance of King George's Sound North, 50* Eaft, eleven leagues diftant. The breeze continued Wefterly till the morning of the 30th, when it was fucceeded by light variable winds, in- clining to calm. The weather being clear and fine, the failors hammocks and chefts were got upon deck, and their clothes well aired ; the fhip was fcraped clean between decks and aired with fires. In 46^* 48' North latitude, and 131° 6' longitude, we found i9°Eafterly variation. Qn the 7th Odober a ftrong gale of wind came on at South South Weft, with hazy weather and rain, which however was not of long duration, and the wind fliifting to the South Weft, brought with it clear weather. The wind continued variable, chiefly in the Southern and Weftern boards, frequently blowing frefli and in fqualls, Thttrfday la. with unfcttlcd weathcr. On the 1 2th, in 38* 44' latitude, and 133° 16' longitude, the wind hauled to the North- ward, and blew frefli from that quarter, till noon on the Saturday 14. 1 4th, whcn, after a few hours calm, it fliifted to the Southward and Eaftward. Oaober. Monday 2. Saturday 7. The NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »43 The fcurvy beginning to make its appearnce on fome of ^ ^^^ ^* the people, the (hip's company were ferved a pint of Port wine a-day inftead of fpirits. 1786. Oaobcr. Saturday 14. We proceeded towards the Sandwich Iflands without meeting with any thing worthy of note. The wind hanging from South to South Eaft, and being in general light and very variable between thefe points, rendered our progrefs tedious. On the 26th, in 32" 36' latitude, and 143* 35' longi- Thurfdafa6. tude, we faw great numbers of tropic birds, one of which was in purfuit of a fmall land bird, very much like a fhipe. In captain Cook's general chart the centre of an iHand, named Saint Maria la Gorta, is placed in 28* North lati- tude, and 14.9° 20° Weft longitude. Our latitude at November noon, on the ift of November, was 28" 14' North, and wednef. i.' the longitude 148° 35'; in which fituation, having fine clear weather, we certainly ought to have feen that ifland, but not the leaft appearance of land was to be feen from the maft-head j and the next forenoon we run diredly Thurfday 2. over the fpot where Saint Maria la Gorta ftiould be fitu- ated ; fo that there is great reafon to fuppofe no fuch place exifts. In the morning of the 9th the wind blew very frefh Thurfday g, and in fqualls from the South Eaft, attended with torrents of rain and fierce lightning. At nine o'clock it increafed to a ftrong gale, with violent fqualls, which obliged us to clofe-reef the topfails ; but before that could be efFeded, 7 the 144 CHAP. VU. 1786. Odober. A V O Y'A G E TO THE the maintopfail was fplit ; another was immediately bent and clofe-reefed. At three in the afternoon the wind liauled to South by Weft, and the weather grew more moderate. Triday 10. DuRiNG the 1 0th the wind varied from South South Eaft to South by Weft, blowing frefh and in fqualls, the weather dark and cloudy, with frequent heavy rains. Next Saturday II. moHiing the wind gradually fhifted to the Weft ward, and at eight o'clock we had a moderate breeze from the North Weft, the weather ftill thick and rainy ; this continued till four in the afternoon, when we had a light breeze at North, with clear pleafant weather. Sunday 12. ^^ ^gon OU thc 152" 51' longitude. 1 2 th the latitude was 21" 26' and With a moderate breeze at North I fteered South by Weft and South South Weft, in order to get to the Eaft ward of Owhyhee, fo that if the wind inclined to the Southward we could eafily run down the longitude. Ttt=fd.yi4. On the 14th at noon, being in 20*4' latitude and 153° 47' longitude, we fteered Weft by South ; and at five o'clock in the afternoon faw the land, which we prefently found to be a high mountain on the iftand of Owhyhee, with fome patches of fnow on its fummit, bearing Weft South Weft half Weft, near thirty leagues diftant. Having Wednef. 15. light wiuds, wc did not fee the land till next day at noon, when Owhyhee again made its appearance, bearing South Weft half Weft, twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. In Thurfdayi^. the moTning of the i6th, with a frcfti breeze at South • Eaft, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 145 CHAP. VII. 1786. November. Eaft, we ftood to the South Weft for Owhyhee, the North point bearing Weft by South, eleven or twelve leagues, and our diftance from the neareft (hore about five les^ues. As we run along the coaft feveral canoes came off to us, '^'"""•'' '*• but they had nothing to difpofe of except a few fmall fifti: indeed the wind blew frefh, and there was fo much fea running, that the natives could not with fafety venture off J with any thing to fell. At noon, having a frefli breeze from the Eaftward, wc ftood to the North Weft by North, about three miles diftant from ftiore. About five o'clock the Eaft end of Mowee bore North North Weft half Weft, nine or ten leagues diftant. When night came on we could perceive large fires lighted in different parts of the country ; moft probably to inform the inhabitants in more diftant parts of the ifland of our arrival. Early next morning, with a Friday 17. gentle breeze from the Eaftward, we run along ftiore to the North Weft ; and our diftance from it being not more than three or four miles, a number of canoes were pre-* paring to follow us. After approaching the 'North point of the iftand, we founded in rounding the point, and had about fixteen fathoms water, over a bottom of white fand and beds of coral rock ; our diftance from the ftiore about two miles. No flicker was t: be fecn for fliips to anchor under, and a very heavy fwell '-t in ftiore, which is prin- cipally compofed of fteep black rocks, againft which the furf beats with much violence. Here and there are fine little fpots of white Tandy beach, where the natives gene- rally keep their canoes. The adjacent country is very pleafant, and there appeared to be feveral villages fituatcd amidft fine groves of cocoa-nut trees. U As 14^ CHAP. VII. 1786. November. Friday IJ' , A VOYAGE TO THE As we run along with a gentle breeze within mufquet- fliot of the fhore, the natives of both fcxcs were ailembled on the beach in great numbers, waving pieces of their white cloth as a token of peace and friend^ip. Ex- pecting to find good fhelter in a bay fituated on the Weil li4e of the ifland, and near a diftrid called by the natives Toeyayaa, at eight o'clock I fent the whale-boat to found, and look for a harbour. In the mean time, we flood ofF and on under an eafy fail, which gave the na- tives an opportunity of bringing us the different produce of their iiland, which they prefently did in great abun- dance; fuch as hogs, plantains, bread-fruit, taro, cocoa nuts, fowls, geefe of a wild fpecies, and great quantities of excellent fait : for thefe articles we bartered with nails, towes, and trinkets of difFerent kinds ; and (o brifk a trade w?nt forw^ard, that in the courfe of four hours we pur- chaied large hpgs fufficient, when falted, to fill feven tierces, befides vafl numbers of a fmaller fort for daily confump- tion. Near two tons of vegetables, fuch as taro and bread-fruit, were alfo procured ; and fo amply did the na- tives fupply us with thofe very ufeful articles, that we were obliged to turn vaft quantities away for want of room to put them ip. Ixideed, it would not have been proper to purchafe more of thofe kinds of vegetables than what would be fufficient for, fix or feven days confumption; for after that time they b^gin to decay very fail. We alfo got about one ton and a half of fine fait, and I immediately fet twenty hands to kill and fait pork. "The Indians during the whole day traded very fairly; but fome of the fped:ators, of whom we had great num- bers of both fexes, fhewed their ufu^l inclination for thieving; got J fet - 147 C H A P. VII. .^1 vcbutiS NORTH WfeST COAST OF AlV^ERICA. thieving; and one man had dexterity enough in his pro- feflion to fteal a bOat-hook out of a boat along-fidc, though there was a boat-keeper in her, and another crept up the November. rudder chains, and ftole the azimuth compafs out of one ^"''*'' ''" of the cabin windows, and got clear off with it, notwith- ftandlng a petfon Was fet to look after them over the ftem. Many other trifling articles were ftole from us in the courfe of the day; which is fcarcely to be wondered at, as I do not think we had lefs than 250 canoes about the fhip at once, which certainly contained more than 1000 people. When our trade was over, the natives entreated us to • ftay near the land, and in the morning they would bring us abundance of fine hogs. On my making them this promife, they parted with us in thfe moft frienilly minner, and paddled on (bore. ^ • At five o'clock the boat returned, and the officer who was in her informed me, that in rowing into the bay which he had been to examine, he carried foundings from twenty to twenty-five fathoms water over a bottom of coral and fand, but that he could find no good anchorage or flielter for the fhips : in confequence of which inform- ation I gave up the intention of proceeding further into the bay, and determined to ftand off and on a day or two near our prefent fituation, to procure a quantity of good hogs to fait for fea ftock. We tacked occafionally during the night, and at eight o'clock in the morning of the i8th Saturday is. the North point of Owhyhee bore Eaft by South four leagues, and the extremes of Mowee North by Weft, and North Weft by Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant. With a light variable breeze we fteered South Eaft towards Owhy- U 2 hec, 148 A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. November. SMiudi/ 18 ^ vii! ^' ^^^» *"^ ^y "°°*^ ^*^* within three miles of the fliore. Many of our yefterday's vifiters now came along-fide, bringing a number of fine hogs and plenty of vegetables, which we procured on the ufual terms. At four o'clock it began to blow frefh from the South South Weft ; and the natives having difpofed of their cargoes, left the (hips and went on fhore. At fix o'clock the North point of Owhyhce bore Eaft by South, and our diftance from the neareft land four leagues. DfjRiNG the night we had light variable airs, and fre- quently calm, attended with ftrong lightning to the Weft- ward. 8aada7i9. In the forcnoon of the 19th I went in my whale-boat on board the Queen Charlotte, to confiilt captain Dixon refpeding our future proceedings. By this time we had purchafed all the large hogs the natives had brought along- fide, and probably pretty well drained this part of Owhy- hee. The Ihips were very light, having fuch a quantity of water expended, and our rigging fore and aft ftood much in need of repairing and overhauling ; fo that we thought it prudent to quit our prefent fituation and pro- ceed for King George's Bay, Woahoo, where we could lie well flieltered from the prevailing winds, and do every thing necefiary both to the hulls and rigging of the fhips : accordingly, at half paft ten o'clock, with a light breeze at South South Weft, and very dirty unfettled-looking wea- ther, we bore away to the Northward, intending to pafs to the Eaftward of Mowee, and then to run down for Woahoo. Towards noon the wind began to blow frefli from the Weft South Weft j and a few canoes which were along- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 149 along-fide left us and paddled for the (hore. The ex- ^ *^,^j^ p. tremes of Mowee in fight, bore North by Weft half Weft, v — . ^ ■^.^, and Weft by North, diftant four or five leagues. No»«mb«r. At two o'clock we had a frcfti gale from the South Weft, on which I returned on board my own ftiip. The gale increafing, we clofe-reefed the toplails, and got down the topgallant yards. Being then within two leagues of Mowee, with the appearance of very bad weather, we edged off to the North Eaft, in order to get a good offing before night cam& on. A little before dark we faw a canoe to the South Weft making after us, with a fmall mat up for a fail, and alfo paddling very hard : on this we brought to and picked her up. There were four men in the canoe, befides a quantity of provifions; fuch as po- tatoes, plantains, &c. It feems they belonged to the ifiand or Mowee ; and on our ftanding in for the Eaft part of it, had put off with their little cargo, hoping to bring it to a good market ; but after we bore away from the iftand, they found the weather fo bad, with a ftrong wind direAly againft them, that they could not reach the ftiore ; therefore bore up after us, fet their little fail, and ufed every effort in their power to get up with the fhip. I was greatly plcafed that we were fortunate enough to get fight of them; for they muft certainly have very foon periftied, their canoe when they came along-fide being almoft full of water, and themfelves fo much fpent with fatigue, that we were obliged to help them up the fhip's fide. We got all their things fafe into the fhip, hauled the canoe in upon deck, and made ufe of every method in our power to recover them, which had the wifhed-for 4 good 150 AVOYAGETOTHE c HA P. gQQjj cffed ; and never were men more grateful than thefe ♦— -^ poor Indians for the little favours we were fo happy in 1786. K . * '■''^ November. Ihewing them. Sunday 19. When the canoe was got on board, we edged away again to the Eaftward, and at feven o'clock hauled to the wind on the ftarboard tack, it then blowing ftrong from the South Weft, with thick rainy weather. Monday 20. DuRiNG the night wc lay-to, and at four the next morning, having a frefli breeze at South South Weft, and . clear weather, we wpre and ftood to the Weftward. At noon the South part of Mowee bore South half Weft, and the North point Weft, fix leagues diftant, the latitude by obfervation 20° 58'. Light variable winds, chiefly in the Weftern board, with alternate calms, continued during the afternoon and Tuefdayai. night. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 21ft we fa^v the illand of Morotoi, the extremes bearing Weft by South half South, and South Weft by Weft, diflant eight or nine leagues; the ifland Ranai alfo made its ap- pearance, bearing from South Weft by South to South Weft half Weft, diflant at leaft ten leagues ; and Mowee about nine leagues diftant. At two o'clock, being within three leagues of Mowee, we tacked and ftood to the North North Eaft with a moderate breeze from the North Weft ; at that time the extremes of the ifland bore South Eafl and Weft by South. The weather being very unfcttled, Wednef. 3.1. no cauocs vcnturcd near us, but towards noon on the 2 2d, having H A VIL P. 1786. November. Wednef. 22. - NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i^i having light winds and clear weather, a number of large ^ and fmall canoes from Mowec and Morotoi came along- iide with the various produce of thofe iflands, which confifted chiefly of a few fmall pigs, fome fweet potatoes, and fugar cane. At one o'clock, finding that a ftrong current was drawing us in very faft between the Weft end of Mowee and the Eaft end of Morotoi, we hauled off to the North by Weft with a very light breeze from the Eaft North Eaft. At four o'clock, having drawn a little out, and got clear of the current, which fets ftrong to the Southward between the iflands, we edged away to the North North Weft, the wind then blowing a light breeze from the Eaft South Eaft. Towards funfet our vifiters, after difpofing of their * cargoes, took leave of us in a very friendly manner, and puflied for the fliore. The extremes of Mowee at that time bore from South Weft to South Eaft by Eaft, four leagues ; and the extremes of Morotoi Weft half South and Weft South Weft half South, five leagues diftant. In the afternoon of the 23d, it then being nearly calm, Thurfdayzj. with clear pleafant weather, the Indians that we picked up off the Eaft end of Mowee, took this opportunity of going on fliore. I endeavoured to prevail on them to ftay on board until the morning, that I might have an oppor- tunity of ftanding clofe in fliore, when they might have gone with greater fafety ; but they chofe to go away at this time, and made light of the diftance to the fliore, though it was not lefs than five leagues. Thefe poor fellows did. not go away empty-handed j fof befides the prefents they 6 had 151 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ viL '' .^^^ ^^^^ ^^» ^"^°ft every perfon on board gave them *■ " ' fome little token of friendfhip : fo that their misfortune 1786. . , * ' November, tumed out to great advantage. The wind ftill kept to the Southward, with unlettled Friday 14. weathcr. At noon on the 24th the Eaft point of Mowee South by Eaft half Eaft, and the Weftemmoft part in light South South Weft half Weft, diftant ten leagues. I ALREADY have obferved that it was our intention on leaving Owhyhee to proceed immediately down for King George*s Bay, Woahoo, and there to have done the ne- ceftary work of the fhips as quick as pofllble ; but on getting to the Northward of Mowee, I found the wind hang much to the Southward and Weftward, and the weather very unfettled. The wind from thofe points blows diredlly into King George's Bay ; fo that I judged it the fafeft method to keep the fea to windward of the ifland until a true trade-wind fet in with fettled weather, and then pufli into the bay, which is exceedingly well (heltered againft the winds from Weft by South, around by the North, to about Eaft ; but quite expofed to the other winds, which feem to prevail a good deal at this time of the year. Accordingly we plied with variable winds till Thurfdayae. the moming of the 30th, without any material occur- rence ; at that time the wind feeming fixed to the North- ward and Eaftward, and the weather more fettled than it had been for many days paft, we bore away for Woahoo; the South point of which at noon bore South Weft by Weft, fix leagues, and the North point Weft by North, diftant from the neareft of the iflands eight miles. At four NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ' tss four o'clock we hauled round Dick*s Point, and at five ^ ^j^ p. came to anchor in King George's Bay with the beft ^^^^-^ bower in twelve fathoms water, over a bottom of grey November. fand intermixed with fmall red fpecks, and moored with '^'""***^->'' the ftream-anchor in eleven fathoms. When moored, Point Dick bore Eaft half South, one mile and a half; Point Rofe Weft by South, fix miles ; and the bottom o£^ the hay North Weft half North, two miles diftant.. X «54 A VO Y A G E TO THE CHAP VIII. C H A P. VIII. Vifited by Taheeterre. — Pernicious EffeSis of Tava-root.-^ TranfaSiions at Woahoo. — Wood pur chafed. — An Eatooa ereSied, — The Chiefs make Offerings to their Gods.'-^ Meditate an Attack on the Ship. — Shewn the EffeSt of Fire-arms. — 'two Indians embark for Atowi. — Take leave of Taheeterre. — Of an old Priefl. — Departure from Woahoo. — Anchor in Wymoa Bay^ Atowi. — An Excurfion on Shore, AF E W canoes came along-fide foon after our arrival in the bay, but they brought fcarcely any thing to No'vlmber, ^11 \ iudccd thcrc feeni to be but few inhabitants in this Thurfdayso. j^^y^ r^vA thofc few are of no great confequence. I gave them to underftand that we wanted water, and directed them to bring it to us, as they formerly had done : they would willingly have complied with my requeft, on ac- count of the nails and beads which they were to have in exchange ; but affured me that not only water, but every thing the ifland produced, was tabooed by the king's order. Finding things in this fituation, I gave to a man, who appeared of the moft confequence amongft our prefent vifiten, a prefent for the king and another for my old acquaintance the prieft, requefting him at the fame time to inform his majefty that we wanted water and fuch refrefh- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^SS refrefliments as the iiland afforded j and therefore I Should ^ ^j|} '*• be glad if he would immediately take off the taboo, that ' — ^-— ' we might obtain afupply of thofe articles. At funfet the November, natives, at my requeft, left the ihip and went on fhore. Tharfday 30> Early the next morning we had fome canoes along- fide, December. who brought us water and a few vegetables, notwithfland- ^"**'' ^" ing the taboo. A number of large and fmall canoes came round Point Dick into the bay, and landed at the head of it ; prcfently afterwards my old friend the priefl paid us a viflt, and came, according to his former cuftom, in a large double canoe, decorated with branches of the cocoanut- tree. After paddling round the fhip with great folemnity, and running down every fmall canoe that came in his way, he came along- fide ; but before he entered the fhip he enquired for me. On my appearing at the fhip's fide to receive him, he handed up a fmall pig, which at his corning on board he prefented to me, as a token of peace and friendfhip. Indeed I have before obferved this to be the ufual pradlice at all the iflands. The old man informed me, that in a fhort time the king (who had juft arrived in the bay with a large fleet of canoes) would be on board to pay me a vifit, and that when he returned again on fhore the taboo would be taken ofFj and the natives at liberty to bring us every thing the ifland afforded. I made him a prefent, and alfo gave him one for the king, which I defired he would carry on fhore and deliver with his own hand. The priefl left us about ten o'clock, and returned again at eleven in his own canoe, accompanied by many others both large and fmall. In a very large canoe, paddled by flxteen flout men, was X a the is6 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ VIII. ^* *^^ ^"^8 himfelf, attended by many of the principal chiefs. »"---"' When his canoe i^pproached near the fliip, all the reft December, paddled ofF to fome diftance, to make way for his ma- "*^'' jeftyj.who, after paddling three times round the fhip in great ftate, came on board without the leaft appearance of fear, and would not fuffer any of his retinue to follow him till he had got pernuflion for their admittance, w hich I gave to eight or ten of the principal chiefs. The king brought me a few hogs and fome vegetables by way of pre- fcnt ; for which I made him a return that feemed to pleafc him highly : moft of his attendants likewife brought a few articles, which I received, and gave them in exchange fuch trifles as feemed to take their fancy, being delirous to eftablifh myfelf on a friendly footing at this ifland, that our bufinefs might go regularly forwardj and our wants be expeditioufly fupplied. The king (whofe name 1 befcM-e "have obferved is Taheeterre) is an exceedingly flout well-made man about fifty years old, and appears to be lenfible, well difpofed, and much efteemed by his fubjefts. He inquired whether we had been at Owhyhee ; and on -my anfwering him in the affirmative, he was very defirous of learning fome par- ticulars refpeding that iiland and the king, with whom he feems to be at variance. But I could give him no other information than that the king was in good health, and that the iHand was in a very flourifhing condition when we left it. Tahebterre remained on board the greateft part ;oF the day, and gave direi^ions to the natives to bring us plenty pf water, and every thing elfe that the ifland produced. Towards NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »i7 Towards evening he returned on fliore, perfeftly fatisiied ^ ^jj| '•' with his reception and the prefents I had given him j and ^--"-'-^j at funfet all the canoes left the (hips. Dminber. * * Fridij u Wr foon begun to feel the good effefts of Taheeterre*s vilit ; the natives, now no longer under the influence of the taboo, brought us water very plentifully, and we procured a good Aipply of hogs and vegetables ; fo that I fet a party to fait pork for fea-ftore ; the boatfwain and another fet were employed about the rigging, and the carpenters in decking the long-boat. On the 3d Taheeterre paid me another vifit attended as Sunday ^ before, and brought his cuftomary prefent of a few hogs, vegetables, and cocoa-nuts. G*it numbers of canoes were about the fliip, and multitudes of both fexes playing ' in the vrater, notwithftanding our diftance from the fhore. My friend the old prieft was almoft conftantly on board, and, according to his ufual cuftom, drank vaft quantities of yava, which kept him in a mofl wretched condition ; he feemed quite debilitated, and his body was entirely covered with a kind of leprous fcurf. The old man had generally two attendants on board to chew the yava root for him, and he found them fo much employment that their jaws were frequently tired, and he was obliged to hire fome of the people along-fide to chew for him at a bead for a mouthful. One of the yava-chewers, a very intelligent man, informed me, that to the Weftward of Point Rofe, in Queen Charlotte's Bay, there was an ex- ceedingly fnug harbour, where the fliips might lie with fafety. As we had a heavy fwell fetting into the bay round Point CHAP. VIII. 1786. December. Suad*y 3. 158 AVOYAGETOTHE Point Dick, which caufed the fliip to roll very much, I determined, as foon as the carpenter Iiad iinifhed the long- boat, to fend her down to examine it ; and if it was found a fafe fituation, to remove the fhips thither. The diftri59 other purpofes. On fignifying our wants to the natives, ^ y^j") ^• they brought us a plentiful fupply of excellent firewood, ^ , - 86 ""-* -which wc purchafed for nails and buttons. December. In the forenoon of the 5th, the carpenters having Tucfj«ys. finiflied decking the long-boat, (he was hoifted out, and ibme hands employed in rigging and getting her ready to go down to Queen Charlotte's Bay. Numbers of {harks were about the fliipj four or five -of which we caught, and after taking out the livers they were given to the Indians, who thought them very accept- iible prefents, particularly the old prieft, who got two of the largeft, and having ordered them to be carefully lafhed in his canoe, was going to fend them on fiiore. On this occafion a very remarkable circumftance happened ; juft -as the prieft's canoe got a-ftern of the fhip, one of the fhark^ not being fecurely faftened, fell out of the canoe, and funk to the bottom in eleven fathoms water ; at the fame time there were feveral large hungry ones fwimming about, yet an Indian went down with a rope, flung the dead fliark, and afterwards hauled him into his canoe, without any apparent fear of the others that furrounded him. I found that fliarks were efleemed valuable, as they anfwer a variety of purpofes ; they fait the fhark, and feem very fond of it, the fkin ferves for a cover to their xlrum- heads, and the teeth they fix in wooden inftruments which they ufe as knives. The natives continued to biing us wood, hogs, and ycgetahles, and vaft numbers vifited the fliips to gratify tJieir curiofity : thofc who liad no canoes woukl fwim frtm the i5o CHAP. A VOYAGE TO THE k tw yyj the fliore, though nearly two miles diftant, and after ftay- w~-< ing all day An the water, fwim away for the (hore with as DeMKiber. much compofure as if they had only a few yards^ to go. ThurMty 7. Monday 1 1. From the 7th to the iith we had frefh gales from the North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, with frequent fqualls and unfettled weather. A heavy fwell fet into the bay from the South £a(l, which made the (hip roll very deep. During this interval, the furf running very high on the beach, few canoes ventured off, and fome that attempted it were overfet fo often that they gave up their defign ; two or three canoes however got along-fide in the afternoon of the 9th, with a little wood and feme bread-fruit, which we. purchafed; and I made them fome prefents in addition, as a reward for their venturing off at lo much rifle. After difpofing of their little cargoes they made for the {hore ;, but not being able to land, were glad to return to the- fhip again^ and take up their lodgings on board for the night. The old prieft was almofl; a conflant vifiter ; fbmetimes ioideed he would go on fhore under the pretence of paying^ a morning vifit to his majefty j but I foon found that his, principal motive was to replenifti his ftock of yava, of which (as has already been obferved) he confumed a great quantity^ By this time the long-boat was completed, and at eight TueHayw. o'clock in the morning of the 12th, the weather being moderate, I fent her under the direftion of Mr. Hayward to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i6t to Queen Charlotte's Bay, to look at the harbour fo much ^ ^„J '•■ fpoken of by the natives, and Towanooha, the yava- ' > .. ^J xhewer, accompanied him as a pilot. 1786. December. Taefday is. Taheeterre paid me a vifit this forwioon, and the furf on the fliore ftiil running very high, he came ofF in a iingle canoe, it being much fafer in the furf than a double one. The king made ufe of a paddle himfelf, and when he came near the fhip, obferving her to roll very deep, he would not venture his canoe near her, but jumped into the water and fwam along-fide ; we gave him a rope by which he got on board, but the motion of the fhip dis- agreeing with him, he took leave of me in a very fhort time, jumped over-board, got into his canoe, and paddled for the fhore. My friend the prieft now grew very reftlefs and uneafy ; on my enquiring the reafon, he hinted that Taheeterre and his principal warriors were meditating fome mifchief againft us, and taking me upon deck, he pointed to a large houfe on the top of a hill over the Eaftern point of the bay which afcends from Point Dick : this houfe the old man aflured me was building for an Eatooa, or God's houfe, wherein they were going to make great offerings to their different Eatooas (for almoft every chief has his feparate one), and to confult them on the event of an at- tack, which he affured me they intended to make on us if their oracles gave them encouragement. He appeared quite difpleafed with the king's conduct on this occafion, and delired we would be conftantly on our guard againft him. Y Though 1 6a CHAP. VIII. » „ * 1786. December. Tucfda^ 12. A VOYAGE TO THE Though this piece of information feemed rather im- probable, yet I thought it prudent to be on our guard to prevent a furprife, and at the fame time I ordered a con- ftant watch to be kept on the cables, to prevent their being cut by the natives. I HAD obferved the natives building this houfe a day or two before the pricft pointed it out to me, and had fecn people conftantly going up towards it loaded, probably with offerings to their different deities. Towards noon I could fee, with the help of a glafs, that the houfe was nearly finifhed, and the natives were covering it with red cloth. As I had conftantly treated the king and his attendants with great kindnefs and attention, I could fcarcely give any credit to the old prieft ; although the hopes of pof- fefnng all the iron they might fuppofe we had on board might pofUbly tempt them to attack us : at any rate, I determined to admit Taheeterre on board as ufual when- ever he came, and to regulate my condud by his behavi- our. In the evening the prieft left us and went on fliore, promiling to return the next day. Thurfdayi4. Qn thc 14th in the moming a vaft number of canoes came to the fliips, chiefly loaded with fire- wood; what hogs and vegetables we now procured being fcarcely more than fufficient for a daily fupply. Towards noon the king came off in a large double canoe, attended by a number of his principal chiefs, all of whom I admitted on board, and 10 treated NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i6j C 1( A Vlll. treated with the ufual freedom, but was well prepared for an attack if they had attempted it ; ha?ing all the loop- ^^ — •-- holes in the combings of the hatches fore and aft opened, and Dfcemb twelve Of fifteen liand of arms below under the dire<5lioh of *"" ** pro|, 'T peoplr, who very foon would have cleared the decks if the Indians had offered us any violence ; befides which, I had centuicls placed in different parts of the (liip, and all our great guns and fwivels were pointed into the canoes along-iide, with lighted matches at hand. Taheeterre could not help obferving our fituation, and fpoke of it to his attendants ; notwithftanding which, he behaved in his ufual manner. After being on board fome time, he was very defirous to fee the effeds of our fire-arms, which I fhcwed him, by difcharging a piftol loaded with ball at a hog that ftood at fome dillance, and killed it on the fpor . The king and his attendants were ftartled at the report of the piftol ; but when they faw the hog lie dead, and the blood running from the wound, they were both furprifed and terrified ; and I have not the leaft doubt but this inftance of the fatal effedls of our fire-arms made a deep impreffion on their feelings, and prevented them from attacking us. The king ftaid on board near two hours, and after re- ceiving a fmall prefent took his leave ; informing me at the fame time, that he intended to leave the bay, and re- turn to his refidence at Whyteetee in the evening. I could not help remarking, that immediately after Taheeterre left the fliip, all the canoes left us and paddled to the fhore in different parts of the bay, but the greateft number of them landed in the Eaftern part of it, where the king had a temporary refidence. Y 2 Soon sr. CHAP. VIll. W-. .. — ^ 1786. December. Thurfday 14. 1' ^ 164 AVOYAGETOTHE Soon afterwards the old prieft came on board, not in a large double canoe as ufual, but in a fmall old crazy one that would fcarcely fwim, and appeared as if he had come off by ftealth. The moment the old man got upon deck, he began to tell me that the king was a great rafcal, per- fifted in his former ftory, and begged me to watch him narrowly. After haranguing for a fhort time, he left me and went on board the Queen Charlotte, where he fpent the remainder of the day. By this time our wooding buflnefs was completed, having purchafed a quantity fuf- ficient for at leafl fix months confumption. Friday 15. Next moming at eight o'clock the long-boat came along-fide, and Mr. Hayward informed me, that on going down to the place where his guide condufted him in Queen Charlotte's Bay, he found a fmall bay with very deep water, clofe to a fandy beach, where the natives generally landed with their canoes, but no place for a fhip to ride in with fafety j adjoining to the beach, in a beautiful valley, furrounded by fine groves of cocoanut- trees and a delightful country, there was a large town> where (as Towanooha informed him) the king generally refided, and the diftridl round it was called Whyteetee» According to Mr. Hayward' s account, there were very few canoes in the bay ; neither did he fee any great num- ber of inhabitants ; fo that we may reafonably fuppofe they were come into the bay where we lay, led either by buhnefs or curiofity. Not a fingle native came near the /hips for two days, and their canoes were hauled out of fight, but we could perceive vaft numbers of the inhabitants about the houfe oa 4 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i^i on the hill. During this time our people were budly chap. employed about the rigging, and getting the fhip ready for feai. Vlli. 1-86, Dcceaiber. At daylight in the morning of the 17th the old pricft, Sunday 17. attended by his yava-chewer Towanooha, came on board. The old man feemed quite enraged at the king's recent condudl ; he told me that the king and all his principal chiefs had been making offerings to their gods, and con- fulting them ; but that the gods were good for nothings and that the king and his adherents were no better than villains, for intending to do us any mifchief, after the many prefents they had received from both fhips. T thanked my old friend for his intelligence, and told him that we fhould be conilantly on our guard. For fome days paft I had been ftrongly importuned by Towanooha, and a very fine young man of the firft confe- quence in the ifland, who was a conftant companion of the king's, to take them along with me to Atoui j and indeed Taheeterre had more than once urged me to take them ; but I never thought they were in earned until this forenoon, when the young chief, whofe name is Paapaaa, came on board, and joined his entreaties with thofe of Towanooha in fo very prefling a manner, that I promifed to take them on board ; and they returned on fhore in order- to prepare themfelves for the paffage. The yava-chewer,' being now as it were a gentleman paffenger, no longer confidered himfelf as a fervant, but took to drinking yava keartily, and laid in a plentiful (lock of that root. In i66 A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. Vlll. 1786 December Sonday 1 7. In the afternoon we had a frefh gale from the Eaft North Eaft, with frequent fqualls, which prevented any canoes coming near us. Towards evening I obferved the" natives uncovering and pulling to pieces their new- built houfe on the hill ; and about eight o'clock feveral large houfes were on fire along fhore near the bay ; but as we had no Indians on board, I could not learn whether they were fet on fire by accident or defign, till the Monday 18. ncxt momiug, when the old prieft and our two pafi'engers coming on board, I enquired the reafon of the fires we had feen on flaore the preceding evening ; and was given to underftand, that they were Eatooa's, or houfes belong- ing to gods with whom the chiefs were difpleafed ; there- fore out of revenge they had burnt gods and houfes both together. In the forenoon a great number of large and fmall canoes came off and brought us a tolerable fupply of various forts of vegetables and a few hogs. Since our water was com- pleted, having expended feveral cafks, I diredled the natives to bring us a further fupply, which they very foon did in great abundance. The king alfo, with his retinue, paid me a vifit ; at his firft coming on board he feemed rather fliy, but upon the whole he conducted himfelf nearly in his ufual manner. On my taking notice of the red houfe on the hill he appeared a gopd deal confufed, and waving that converfation, begun to talk about his two countymen who were going with me to Atojii. He feemed very much interefted in Paapaaa's welfare; he particularly requefted me to take care of him and treat him well, and if we flopped at Atoui, he begged that I would leave him un- der the care of Taaao, who it feems is brother to Tahee- terre, and a relation of Paapaaa's, The two paffcngers aiked aft ny he* w- ral Yi irn the ers we rcn re- oth lall ous nn- ves in aid ler in ufe ing len ich ted we ee- ;ers ced CHAP. VIII. 1786. December. Monday lit. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 167 afked me for a few trifles to leave amongft their friends before they fet off, which I readily gave, and alfo made the king a prefent ; on which he took leave of me for the laft time, and after taking a very affeding one of his coun- trymen, particularly of Paapaaa, he quitted the Ihipand went on fliore ; the other canoes remained along-fide to difpofe of their cargoes, and we procured a fupply of good hogs, which enabled me to fet the falters to work again. In the afternoon the rigging was fet up, the fails bent, and every thing ready for fea. In the night the Queen Charlotte parted her bower- cable and brought up with the other bower. I fent a boat the next morning to affift them in creeping for the Tuefdayip. end of their cable, which was fortunately hooked in a fhort time, and tlie anchor was recovered before noon. On examining the cable, fome were of opinion that it had been cut by the natives, and it certainly bore that appear- ance a good deal. At four o'clock we began to unmoor, as I popofed getting to fea with the breeze that ufually blows out of the bay in the night, but in a fhort time we found the flream-cable gone about three fathoms from the haufe ; as we lay in ten fathoms water, this part could never have been at the ground, and we never had rode the lead drain by it ; fo that I was convinced it muft have been cut by the Indians. We had a buoy on the anchor ; therefore I fent the long-boat to weigh it, and we begun to heave a-head on the beft bower : juft as we had got a ftay-peak the beft bower alfo parted four fathoms from the anchor ; on t ' 1 68 A V O. Y A G E TrO T H E ^ viif ^" ^^ ^^^^ ^^ immediately let go the fmall bower, and *-^- ~ -^ brought up for the night. The Queen Charlotte having December, weighed, and (landing out of the bay, we made the fignal to anchor, on . which fhe ftretched in the bay, and camcr Wednef. 20. to clofc by US. At daylight the next morning we warped to the buoy of the beft bower, and weighed the anchor, and at the fame time weighed the fmall bower and got under fail with a light breeze from tl^e North Eaft. The old prieft was ftill on board along with my new paflengers, and we were followed by feveral canoes ; but towards noon the friendly old man took his leave, and I made him a prefent, with which he was highly pleafed; he then went on board the Queen Charlotte, to take leave of captain Dixon, and foon afterwards left the fhips, ac- <:ompanied by the other canoes, and paddled for the Ihore. At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore Weft by North half North, and North Eaft half North, diftant from the neareft part of the ifland about three leagues. On getting in the bower-cable that had parted, we found it a good deal rubbed by the coral fand, of which the bottom where we anchored is chiefly ccwmpofed ; and on examining the place where it parted, I was of opinion that it had been cut with a knife, until the cable was opened, when I found all the yarns cut in the fame manner, and no doubt by rubbing on the coral fand. ^ The beft iituation for anchoring in King George's Bay is near the middle of it, and about a mile from the reef; where there are fix and {e.ven fathoms water, over a bottom of dark fand entirely free from coral 3 but as the inconve- nience • NORTH WEST COAST OF AM2RICA. 169 nience of our fituation was not difcovered till we were ^ ^^^f ^' leaving the place, we had no opportunity of changing it ^~ ^7 -^ for a more eligible one. December. *^ Wedner. 20. We ftood to the South Weft with a light Eafterly breeze till night, whfen it grew nearly calm, and next morn- Thurfdtyii. ing the wind hauled to the Northward and Weftward. At noon the extremes of Woahoo bore from North by Weft half Weft to North Eaft three quarters Eaft, fix leagues diftant. The wind frefliened during the night, and at eight o'clock next morning blew a ftrong gale at Friday a. North North Eaft, with dark rainy weather. Soon after- wards the iftand of Atoui made its appearanccj bearing North Weft by Weft, feven or eight leagues diftant. To- wards noon the weather grew more moderate ; and being then within feven miles of Atoui, we ftood on for Wymoa Bay, and at two o'clock anchored in thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of fine black and grey fand. As I knew the bank to be very fteep, and the wind blowing frefh, I was afraid our anchor would ftart off ; to prevent which we wore away to a cable and a half, and then the fhip lay in forty-eight fathoms water over the fame bot- tom; one cable's length aftern there was one hundred fa- thoms, and a little further we found no ground with the deep fea line. Soon afterwards the Queen Charlotte let go her anchor a little within the King George, but by check- ing the cable too foon, fhe dragged it off the bank and could not get it to catch again with a whole cable out; therefore got her head off lliore, hove their anchor up, and made fail; but finding they could not get up to us '' before night came on, they ftretched well i*^., and anchored about a mile and a half to the Weftward of the village Z of 170 A V O y A.G E T O T H E c viit. ^' ^^ Wymoa and a frefli- water river, and oppofite a large »~. - " ^ -J grove of cocoaniit-trees that lie near the Weftern point of December. Friday it. the bay. The King George lay to the Eaftward of Wymoa; that tovi'n and the river bearing North by Weft, the Eaft point of the bay bore Eaft by South a quarter South, and the Weft point North Weft by Weft half Weft, our dif- tance from the neareft (hore about two miles. Several canoes came off foon after our arrival, bringing abundance of fine taro. I enquired for the king and my old friend Abbenooe, and was informed that they, to- gether with moft of the principal chiefs belonging to the ifland, were at Apoonoo, a town fituated towards the North Eaft part of the illand, where the king ufually refides ; but the natives told me the king and his retinue would Ihortly be down at Wymoa. I defired the natives to bring a fupply of hogs, which they promifed to do on the morrow ; and indeed I had no realon to complain of Saturday 23. their Want of pundluality ; for at daylight the next morn- ing we were furrounded by canoes, which brought a number of very fine hogs for faking, and great plenty of taro, fweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, and fiigar-cane ; and on my afking for water, they prefently got into the method of fupplying us, and brought off great plenty of excellent water. fSunda/ 24. Next morning at eight o'clock I went on fhore to Wymoa, accompanied by my two paffengers and one of /the failors, with an intention of walking round the Weftern point of the ifland, in hopes of finding a well- fheltered A NORTH WEST.CQA^J O^ AMERICA. i;;i Weltered bay for the fhips to ride ip. After getting on ^ ^jj^ ?• fliore, I was received by a yaft multitude of the inha- ' — ^^ bitants in the moil friendly manner, and prefently we December. were joined by a few people of fome cohfequence, who ^•""''v- -- offered to accompany us in our walk, which I readily accepted, and found them of great fervice in keeping the . crowd at a diftance, though they did not gather round lis with a mifchievous intention, but on the contrary, to render us any little fervice in their power. After walking two or three miles along the ihore, we lat down to take a little refrefhment. During our ihort repaft, a chief named . .. , Tiaana (who I underftood was brother to the king) joined J us, and prefled me very much to walk back to Wymoa and eat with him there. As I was very anxious to find out a good bay for the fhips, I declined this friendly rcqueft, . but promifed to call on him at my return, on which he ' took his leave with many profeflions of friendlhip, and we continued our walk along fhore. By three o'clock we got to the North Weft point of the ifland, and I found all that part of the coaft open and expofed, with a very heavy furf rolling in on the beaches. • Being difappointed in my fearch for a harbour, I begun to think of returning on board ; but after we had walked four or five miles, I found it would be impradicable for iis to reach Wymoa before night came on ; at this time we were not far from a comfortable houfe belonging to Abbenooe ; therefore I determined to take up my lodging in it for the night, and my companions were glad to em- brace the fame opportunity, as they were greatly fatigued with their walk. We arrived at the houfe about funfet, and one of Abbenooe' s men, who had joined us in the Z 2 courfe tyi A VOYAGE TO THE ^ viii. '* courfc of the afternoon, gave direftions for a hog and a »■■■»■-■ 'J dog to be immediately killed and drefled for our fuppers, Dm^mber. together with a large quantity of taro. The houfe was finaday 24. ^^jj jjgj^|.gjj ^p ^j^jj torchcs made of dry nifties, and at eight o'clock fupper being ready, it was ferved up in great order, and I think few people ever ate a heartier fupper than we did. My friend's man adted as mailer of the cere- * monies, and ferved the provifions to each perfon ; and after our feafl was ended, he ordered the remains to be taken care of, as he told me it was for us to eat before Uo»iij*S' we fet out in the morning. We got up next morning at daylight, and finiflied the remains of the preceding even- ing's repaft. Previous to our quitting the houfe, there were near an hundred women about it, moft of them with children in their arms; they were very inquifitive to know my name, which they pronounced Po pote, and fuch of the infants as could fpeak were taught by their mothers to call on Popote : on this I diftributed feme trifles amongft them, with which they appeared highly fatisfied. We walked towards Wymoa, and reached the fliore a-breafl of the Queen Charlotte about nine o'clock. I de- fired my companions to walk down to Wymoa; and being very anxious to get on board, I took a canoe and went on board the Queen Charlotte, where I found my own whale-boat, and got on board the King George towardsL noon. During my abfence they had carried on a brifk trade for proviflons, and I had the pleafure of feeing the decks ' full of fine hogs for falting» 13 Being A NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »73 Being, now well afTured that Atoui afforded noplace for ^ "111. '^' the (hips to ride in equal to Wymoa Bay, I determined to < — - ^ii* keep our fltuation a mort time, for the purpofe of falting Dmnber. pork for fea-ftore, and afterwards to proceed to Oneehow **"■''•' **• for a fupply of yams, and to remain there till the proper feafon for the profecution of our voyage to the coafl of America. «74 A VOYAGE TO THR CHAP. IX. CHAP IX. 1786 December. Monday 25. * Variety of Refrepments procured. — Vifitedby the King.—^ Prefents given and received. — Deplorable Situation of an old Warrior. — Ceremony of the T'ahooara. — A re- markably large Shark caught. — Grateful Behaviour of Neeheowhooa. — Arrival at Oneehow. — Obliged to cut the Cables in a Gale of Wind.—^Leave three Invalids on Shore. — Anchor again in Yam Bay. — 'Tlje Sick return on board. — heave Oneehow^ and arrive at Atoui. — Re- markable Circumjlance of a Woman with a Puppy at her Breafi. — Chiefs exercife with Spears.^ — Houfe built for Captain Portlock.-^The Ships leave Atoui and arrive at Oneehow. — Recover the King George s Anchors.-^ Attempt on the Life of an Atoui Chief. — Departure from the Sandwich Iflands, IN the morning of the 25th T^iana, the chief whom I faw on fliore, came off in a large double canoe, and brought me a prefent of fome hogs and vegetables, which I received, and made him a return that pleafed him very ' much. He informed me that the king, accompanied by Abbenooe and a number of other principal chiefs, would be down in a day or two, and in the mean time we fhould be plentifully fupplied with every thing the ifland pio- duced. After many profeflions of friendfhip Tyaana took his leave and returned on fhore. Soon afterwards I fent the whale-boat on fhore to Wymoa for the failor I left X behind .i NORTH WEST COAi^iT OF / MERI^ A. behind along with Paapaaa and Towanoba ; m man r turned with the boat, but the other two cho. :o rem. . on fhore a day or two amongft their new fri' uds, and I Dedmbtr. underftood they were greatly careffed by the natives in '^°"'**''S* general. Besides hogs and vegetables, the natives brought bafs and grafs rope to barter, which we purchafed, as it was likely to prove ufeful for various purpofes. The natives, finding we encouraged this traffic, were very bufy on fhore manufaduring rope, which they did very expedition fly, and brought oft' whole coils made of green rufhes and grafs; this we bought for the purpofe of rounding the cables^ and the bafs for running rigging. The natives continued to bring us an abundant fupply of fine hogs, fruit, and roots, and a large party were conftantly employed in killing and falling pork for fea- ftore. In the forenoon of the 28th we obferved a number ThurfdayzS, of canoes come round the Eaflern point of the bay, and foon afterwards my good friend Abbenooe came on board, but fo much reduced, and fo covered with a white fcurf, from the immoderate ufe of the yava, that I fcarcely knew him. He brought two canoes loaded with different kinds of provifions, as a prefent for the two fhips : after flaying a fhort time with me, he went on board the Queen Char- lotte with the prefent he intended for captain Dixon ; and returning again in the evening,, took up his lodgings with us. "^ On the 29th the wind blew very frefh from the Eafl Friday 29. North Eaft, with frequent heavy fqualls from the land, which iyS 1786 December. Stlurday 30. i H * AVOYAOETOTHE which prevented-the king froin coming off to the fhips ; but the weath<»- gro^ng modfififee towards night, Abbe- nooe went on (bore early the next morning, and returned at nine o'dock, in company with Taaao and mod of the principal chiefs belongmg to the ifland. His majefty Drought me a very handfome prefent, confiding of hogs, taro, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, together with cloth, mats, and ieveral elegant feathered cloaks; all which he infifted on -my- receiving: accordingly they were got into the fhip, and I made him an ample return. Paapaaa and Towanoha being now on board, I took an opportunity of introducing them to the king, agree- ably to Taheeterre's requeft : previous to this, I gave them a few trifling articles which they prefentcd to him, and were received with great affability and kindnefs, and he iafTured me that they fhould be xmder his immediate protedion. According to my expeflation, I found that Abbenooe was a man highly efleemed by the king, who confulted him on every occaiion. , T A AA9 appears to be about forty-five years old, flout and well made, and feemed the beil difpofed man that we had met with amongft the iflands. He offered me his friendihip in the mofl eamefl manner, and afTured me that we fhottld be well fupplied with every thing this and the adjacent iflands afforded : he requefled Abbenooe to remain on board, in order to prevent any difputes arifing between our people and the natives in the courfe of their traffic. , . The The Ml I :^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 177 The king and his retinue (laid on board about two hours, ^ "j^^ ^* and gratified their curiofity in looking at different parts of < — -t-^ the fliip, which they feemed greatly to admire. After Decemw. taking leave of me they went on board the Queen Char- ^""''•^ ^'^' lotte, where they ftopped a fhort time, and then returned on fliore. Abbenooe attended his majefty to fee him fafely landed, and afterwards came on board for the night ; and as he conftantly took up his abode with us, I had ordered a cot to be hung for him in the cabin, which pleafed him fo much that he never flept out of it. Vast numbers of canoes came off on the 31ft, bring- Sunday 31; ing hogs and vegetables as ufual ; the king alfo paid me a vifit, accompanied by an elderly man named Neeheowhooa, who I underfbood was his uncle, and a perfon of the firft confequence. This old chief has, it feems, in his time, been one of the greateft warriors that Atoui, or any of the iflands could boaft of, and has been greatly inftrumental in fettling them under their prefent kings Taheeterre and Taaao; indeed his very appearance befpoke the hardy veteran ; his body was almoft covered with fears, and he was quite a cripple; and to add to his diftrefling fituation, he had entirely loft one eye, and the other was in a weak ftate, occafioned by fome wounds he lately had received in battle, and which were beyond their art to heal. Taaao appeared very unhappy on account of his uncle's Situation, and perhaps thinking that we could perform wonders, begged of us to cure him. I recommended him to the care of my furgeon, who wafhed his wounds, applied dreffings to them, and gave him fome frefh ones, which he was directed to make ufe of once a-day. Neeheow- hooa feemed perfedly to underftand the furgeon's inftruc- A a tions. 178 A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP, tjons, and promifed tb follow them in the moft: punctual IX. manner. After remaining on board a few hours, Taaaa December, and his uncle left us, highly pleafed with the treatment Sunday 31. ^1 1 j • j ' they had received. J787. Janiinty. 1 1 • The next morning fcarcely any canoes were to be feen, though the weather was very fine : on my afking Abbe- nooe the reafon, he told me they were detained on ac- count of a tabooara being laid on by the king. The tabooara it feems is a kind of tax which the king impofes on the property of thofe fubjedls whofe plantations are near at hand, and confifts of a certain portion of their various produce. At Abbenooe's requeft, I attended him on fliore to fee the ceremony, and indeed I could not but admire the order and regularity with which the natives conducted themfelves on this occafion : men, women, and even children, paid their contributions with cheerful- nefs and good-will; fome brought hogs, others tare, bread-fruit, and indeed every thing the illand produced ; all which were placed in feparate heaps. Taaao and moft of the principal chiefs attended to fee the tabooara pundlually complied with, and when it was finiftied, the whole was divided into two parcels, which the king told me were a prefent for the two fhips, and defired me to fend boats on fhore to carry them off. I was greatly pleafed with the king's generous method of pro- ceeding, and determined he fhould not be a lofer by his liberality, though I happened to have nothing on fhore that I thought a fuitable return for fo noble a prefent. After taking a very friendly leave of me, the king re- tired to a houfe fituated a little to the Eaftward of the river. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. »79 river, where he reiides when at this part of the ifland ; ^ ^^j^^ ''• and I went off in the Icmg-boat, accompanied by my > • friend Abbenooe. Before night we had got the whole of januaVy. our prefent on board, and the tabooara being over, the ^^"'"^"^ '• canoes came about the fhips as ufual. On the 2d and 3d the wind blew very frefli at Eaft by xuefdayz, North, with frequent fqualls ; during which time we had wednci. j. but little intercourfe with the natives, and our flock of vegetables was nearly expended : however, Abbenooe, ever anxious to fupply our wants, went on fhore to procure a fupply of hogs and roots, ready to come off when the weather grew moderate, and early in the morning of the 4th he returned on board, and informed me that he had Thurfday 44 got a number of hogs and vegetables ready for us. The weather being now pretty moderate, I fent the long-boat on fliore at eight o'clock, and foon afterwards followed myfelf in the whale-boat, accompanied by Abbenooe. The fea being very fmooth, ^e landed with the boat on a beach a-breaft of the village of Wymoa ; and whilft the people were getting the hogs and other provifions into the ' ' ' long-boat, we walked two or three miles up a valley, W/iich leads from Wymoa towards the mountains. This valley abounds with taro, which is planted in trenches that contain about fix inches depth of water ; the taro-grounds are divided at convenient diftances by raifed foot-paths, which, as well as the trenches, are made of ftones in a very regular manner, and muft have coft the natives an infinite deal of time and trouble. Abbenooe conduced me to a large new houfe belonging to him, fituatcd at feme difbance up the valley, and very well built after their manner *, here we ^t down a little while, and after taking A a 2 fomc x8o A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. January. Thurfday 4. ^ Ixf ^' ^°*^^ refrefhment, returned to Wymoa. By this time they had got every thing into the long-boat, and we took a pafTage in her on board. During my abfence they had purchafed a number of fine hogs, and great plenty of taro, potatoes, &c. fo that we again begun to kill and fait pork for fea-ftore. In the afternoon we caught a (hark, fo very large that it was obliged to be hoifted out of the water with a tackle ; it meafured thirteen feet and a half in length, and eight feet and a half in circumference, and the liver fix feet ; its mouth was fo large, that it admitted the head of a puncheon with eafe. On the fhark being opened, there were found forty-eight young ones in her, each about eight inches long, two entire turtle weighing about fixty pounds each, befides feveral fmall pigs, and a large quantity of bones. The liver was kept for oil, and I gave the filli to the natives, who feemsd to regard it as an ineflimable treafure. rridays. TAaao paid mc another vifit on the 5th, accompanied by his eldeft fon, named Taaevee, a very fine boy about twelve years of age. The king told me that he intended this as a farewel vifit, as he intended to return to Apoonoo very fhortly, but that Abbenooe fhould remain on board and accompany us down to Oneehow, which ifiand and its produce he prefled me very much to accept of as a prefent, and defired Abbenooe to take care that the natives fupplied Tis well with yams, without taking any thing in return ; but I begged (if he would not permit them to fell the produce of the ifiand) that they might be fufifered to re^ ceivc fomething for their trouble in digging and bringing off NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. off the yams to us ; which at length he reludantly af- fented to, and after receiving a prefent that feemed tp pleafe him highly, he took leave of me in the moft friendly manner, as did his fon and the attending chiefs ; to each of whom, on parting, I gave a fmall prefent, and they went on fhore with the greateft appearance of fa- tisfadion. i8i CHAP. IX. 1787. January. Friday j. Amongst the perfbns of confequence who attended Taaao on his farewel viiit, was his uncle Neeheowhooa :' his wounds were getting better, and he feemed quite at a lofs how to exprefs his gratitude and thankfulnefs ; he begged permiflion to come on board every day to have them dreifed, and feemed to think they would foon be healed. After attending his nephew on fhore^ he returned with a large double canoe full of hogs, for a prefent to the furgeon and myfelf, as a token of his gratitude. I took the hogs on board, but we declined receiving them as a prefent, though it was with fome difficulty I prevailed on the old warrior to receive any thing in exchange. I defired him to come daily on board to have his wounds drefTed, which pleafed him very much, and he went on (hore highly fa- tisfied with the treatment he received. re-» On the 7th the king in a large double canoe, attended Sunday 7. by feveral others, left the bay and fet off for Apoonoo. Abbenooe flill remained on board the King George, and we found him a moft ufeful perfon : if ever any little difpute arofe in our traffic with the natives, he always fettled it to general fatisfa^ion. Wb 1787. Janaary. Monday 8. ,8t AVOYAGETOTHE We ftill were furnifhed with a few hogs and vegeiablcs, and the natives brought us a plentiful fupply of fire-wood, fome of which made very good handfpikes and capftan- bars ; and as we began to run fhort of thefe articles, the carpenter fet about making fome. Not many canoes making their appearance to-day, I fuppofed a number of the natives had gone to their refpedlive homes, having dif- pofed of the articles they had brought for fale^ and fatisfied their curiofity* Tuefday-p. Pleasant wcathcr, with light variable winds from Eaft North Eaft ; the anchor-end of the beft bower cable being much worn, we yefterday cut about nine fathoms of it off, and this day were employed in rounding it with grafs rope; a few hogs were purchafed, and fome fire- wood; feveral hands employed in fawing up and flowing the wood away. But few hogs brought to-day ; I fup- pofed that we had bought nearly all the natives wifhed to part with, and fhould for the^ future think ourfelves well off in procuring a fufiiciency for our prefent ufe. The * . canoes belonging to the bay conftantly attended us; their principal cargoes confifted of cocoa-nuts, very fine fugar- cane, andbafs, and grafs-rbpe. Wednef. to. Employed purchafing wood and bafs-ropes, andgettingall clear forfea; at feven o'clock, up topgallant-mafts and yards; and at eight hove up and came to fail with a light breeze from the Northward. Between nine and ten it fell quite calm; at eleven a gentle breeze fprung up from the Weft ward, with which we run in and anchored again in Wymoa Bay. I think a number more canoes muft have come into the 5 bay NORTH WEST C()AST OF AMERICA. 183 :all 1787. Jonuary, Wedncf. 10. bay during the night ; for we had more about us now ^ "j^^ ^ than I have feen (ince our arrival in the bay. We bought a few very good hogs ; but the chief of their remaining merchandife feems to be now confined to what we term curiofities ; fuch as their country cloth, mats, fpears, and various other articles. On the nth, employed in preparing for failing; dark Thurfdayn. cloudy weather and rain. At fix o'clock, with a frefh breeze from the North Eafl:, we weighed and came to fail ; Queen Charlotte and the long-boat in company. After 5 •» clearing the bay, made fail for the South point of Onee- how ; our diflance from the nearefl fhore about three leagues ; my firfl officer, who had been dangeroufly ill> now recovered, and does duty again.. *■• From tfie 1 2tli to the 1 6th nothing particular occurred, Tuefday le. when we came to anchor in Yam Bay with the beil bower, in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of coarfe fand» When moored, the following bearings were taken ; namely, the North point of the bay 26* Eaft, diflant three or four miles, and the end of the reef that runs from that point North, 15° Eaft; the highefl part of the South Head run over the low land of the bay South, 37' Eafl ; the South " points of the bay, 1 5* Eafi, diflant three or four miles j the ifland of Tahoora South, 43** Wefl ; the ifland of Oneehow North, 25* Eaft; and the bottom of the bay North, 60° Eaft, diftance about a mile and a half. We found a very heavy fwell rolling into the bay, which caufed fuch a furf on the beach as made it very dangerous for the natives to come off with any" thing. Queen Charlotte not in fight ; went on fhore to defire the natives to bring us off a fupply of yams ; the furf ftill continued fo heavy on tlie l84 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. January. Tuefday 16 c Hj^A P. ti^g fliore, that the natives could have no intercourfe with us, and is very difFerent to what we found it when we were here before ^ as then I fafely landed with our whale-boat, and fhe might have remained on the beach without any danger of filling. At that time there was no Wefterly fwell, and the true trade-wind prevailed, which is by no means the cafe at this time. Towards noon the weather cleared up a little, when fome canoes came off with a few yams, juft fufficient for a prefent fupply- Fednef. 17.' On the 17th about ten o'clock I went on ifliore with the whale-boat, accompanied by Abbenooe; and as the furf ran even too great for canoes, we were obliged to row; in under the reef, where we found a pluce that the boat could lie at her anchor with fafety ; and we went into a ca- noe to go on fhore, but were overfet by the furf before we reached it, and were obliged to fwim for it. After land- ing, we walked about feven miles to the Northward along the hills, at fome little ^liftance from the beach ; but in our walk I obferved the coaft all along to be very foul, and no place equal to Yam Bay to ride in. The country feemed very poorly cultivated, and Abbenooe told me, that fince we took our ftock of yams in, the people have in a great meafure negleded the illand, barely planting enough for their own ufe ; and that fome had entirely left the ifland, and taken up their future refidence at Atoui. Towards evening we returned on board. The Queen Charlotte not in fight. Thnrfdayis. On the 1 8th and 19th the carpenter employed in caulking *the fides, the people working up junk, and the armourer at the forge. The furf on the beach appearing 1 1 not NORTH WtST COAST OF AMERICA. itj Janu.uy. ThurlUay ig. not very high, I gave the firft watch leave to go on fhore ; ^ "j^* ^ they went on fhore in our own boats, and had canoes to take them on fhore from the boats ; notwithflanding which, they were overfet, and fome of them would undoubtedly •have been drowned, had not the natives ifwam into th^ furf and got them fafe on fhore. In the evening the whale-boat returned, having from the South fcen the Queen Charlotte at a confiderable diflance. This day feveral of my people had liberty to go on Saturday ao. ihore ; all of whom returned except three, who were in a very poor ftate of health, and whom I thought of letting remain a few days till they got better ; and Ab- benooe had, provided a comfortable houfe for their recep- tion, and ordered them to be fupplied with every refrefh- ment the ifland afforded. Prefently after, a heavy gale coming on, obliged me to cut our cables and run out of the bay, followed by the long-boat. We were under the ne- r ceflity of leaving our three invalids on fhore ; but tJiey were perfedtly fafe, and taken proper care of. Ab- benooe and feveral others of the Indians were on board at the time, and went to fea with usj after getting a little offing we fleered to the Northward, meaning, if the Weft- erly winds continued, to go through between Atoui and Oneehow, and join the Queen Charlotte, who I fuppofed was flill to the Eaflward of OneehoWj not having an oppor- tAinity of getting down to the bay^ From the 2ifl to ithe 26th kept beating ofF and on SamUyn, about Oneehow aiid Atoui, without being able to come to anchor till the 26 th in the South point of Yam Bay. Our Indian vifiters very impatient to get on fhore again, B b which i86 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ "x.^ ^* which the heavy furf ftill running prevented. The Queen ^- -» Charlotte came to anchor about two milea to the South* 1787. Jinnary. ward of us. Saturday 27. A HEAVY Tea continuuig, made it difficult for any ca- noes to get to us ; at laft a few ventured off from Yam Bay ; one of them called along-fide the long-boat, which I had fent into the bav on the 2 2d, to endeavour to get in the ends of the cables if he found it practicable, and lie at them till I (hould arrive with the (hip. They brought me a letter from the officer, acquainting me, that on his arrival in the bay the flip-buoy of the beft bower was gone, and that after getting hold of the flip-buoy rope of the ftream-cable, before they had well got it taught, it parted, being chafed off by the motion of the rope againrl: the coral fand. In their canoes alfo came our ^ three invalids, who had been on board the long-boat ever (incc their anchorage in the bay. Thefe people had been very well treated by the natives during their ftay on fliore ; and in confequence of their not feeing the fliip return fo fopn as they expeded, the Indians fuppofed we had gone to Wymoa to remain, and were juft at the time when the long-boat made her appearance in the bay, about taking them to Atoui in fome of their canoes to join the fliip ; but on the long-boat's arrival they fent them immediately on board her, and brought with them the flip-buoy of the befl bower-cable, and the buoy of the ftream-anchor^ both of which broke a-drift and drove on fliore during the night after we cut out, at which time it blew very ftrong from the South Weft, with a very heavy fea. Abbenooe went on fliore with an intention of procuring a ftock of yams for us, artd to get them at the firft opportunity ; the iz NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. .197 the weather continued {till ib bad that we could not make ^ ^^^ '' luiy trial for our anchor. «- — ^ :» 1787. . t January. From the 28th to the 30th the weather dill To very Sdndty^s. Jqually, that we could not attempt getting our anchors, and not thinking it fafe to lie in our prefent (ituation, we weighed and came to fail ; the Queen Charlotte and the long-boat in company, flood to the Southward to clear the ifland of Oneehow; and as the wind ftill lay to the Northward and Weftward, which prevented us doing any thing towards recovering our anchors, I meant to anchor and get a £re(h fupply of provifions. On the 31ft came to anchor in Wymoa Bay with the wedner.jij iinall bower in twenty-nine fathoms water, over a bottom of fine muddy black fand. When moored, we lay nearly abreafl of the river and the town of Wymoa, from which we immediately had a fufficient fupply of provifions of different kinds. Variously employed on board.. Abbenooe difpatched a _J«''':"t» mefienger to the king to acquaint him of our arrival. " ^^'' On the 2d, 3d, and 4th, employed in working up Fridiyz. junks, painting the fliip, and other neceflary jobs. A GENTLE breeze from the South Wefl, with fine wea- Mo" ther. I gave the fecond watch leave to go on fhore : a number of Abbenooe*s people attended them by his order, to prevent quarrels between the feamen and the natives, and to furnifh them with provifions. His orders were pim^ually attended to. In the evening, when the people returned, I found not a theft had been attempted, but they had '; B b 2 . been '7 5» 118 C H A P. IX. I7i7. F«bru«r)r> MoDd«)r 5. A V O Y AG E TO t M E Been treated with everv luxury the ifland aM^orded, ax^ that in a moft friendly manner. A remarkable circynw fiance, related by Mr. Goulding^ a volunteer in the fer* ▼ice; {liews the great regard the natives have for their dogs : in Walking a confiderable way al^Hg the (kiore, he mei with an Indian and hia wife'; Ihe had two puppies^ one at each bread : the oddity of the-cifcumilance induced him to endeavour to purchafe one of them, which the woman could' not, by all his perfuaiions or temptations, be induced to part witb ; but the iight of fome nails had fuch powerful attf anions upon' the man, that he iniiiled upon her parting with one of thenor ; at laft, with every fign of real forrow ftie did, giving it at the fame time aa aflfe£biohate embrace. Although he was at this time a don- fiderable w^ from the fhip, the woman would not part with him till they arrived' where the boat was* lying to take him on board; and juft' upon his quitting the Ihore fhe very earneftly intreated to have it once more before they parted ; upon his complying with wluch, fhe imme- diately placed it at the breaft,. and after fome time re- turned it to-hiiii again^'^7iK):J 'i.'bj"/>r> • ;.Y This day, at my requeft, two chiefs that were on board from Wy moa' extrcifcd with theip ^ark ; tHe dcxttritjr'and aftonifhhig expei-tneis {hewnlby them wonderfully furpirifed every one on board ; one of them, whofe name was Na-maa- te^-rac, that' is, blitid of one eye,« is -a well-made man of about five feet fiX inches £ighy hi& ikia much s^&ed by his immoderate drinking of yava ; and; though he appears to be a perfon of very little property, is: vet much refpeded, and his company courted by all the.priBcipal'men c^ the ifland. I fuppofe the attention paid him proceeds from his having been, and (till remaining, a great warrior ; the 8 lofs NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. '•Idfs of his c^e, one informed me, he met v^^ith in battle by a ftonc flung from a fling ; but this accident does not prevent him from being a moft expert warrior j his manner of exerciHng gave us fufl^cient proofs to the contpary. He took his (land about three or four yards from the cabin-door, unarmed; the other perfdn flood at about eight or ten yards diftancc from him, provided with five fpears ; upon the flgnal being given for commencing action, a fpear was thrown with the utmoft force at Na-maa-te-e-rae, which he avoided by a motion of the body, and caught it as it paflfed him by the middle ; with this fpear he parried the reft without the lead apparent concern ; he then returned the fpears to his adverfary, and armed himfelf with a Pa-ho-a; they were again thrown at him, and again par- ried with the fame cafe. One of the fpears ftruck a con- iiderable way into the bulk-head of the cabin, and the ^ barbed part was broken off in endeavouring to get it out, • The remarkable coolricf^ he fliewed at the time the fpears were caft at him, proved at onee his courage and ex- pertnefs. All wfip were fpe^tatdrs of the fight ftiud- dered at the danger he feemed expofcd to, and were afto- nifluid to fee with what eafe he parried ev^ery thing uiat wascaftathim* j.i..- 189 K> I .Ji.( ' » r' • ft '>! ,» ' ,-»t 17R7. February. *' • This da^I^ffvt^tfcfe third waHch^ltavetogo'dnfliore; the Tuefdaye; reft of the pe<te amongil th^n. Near the fpot I fixed on I procured a large flat flone, on which I etched the initials of my name, the country I ferve, and the year of our Lord ; I explained as well as I could the meaning of this to my friend, who appeared much pleafed with it : I defired he would caufe the ftone to be placed in the centre of the houfe. One very great inconvenience aCliends their houfes, which is their want of windows ; the extreme hot weather they have (b much of makes it very uncom- fortable; and clofe ; but they feem U» think it a matter of no oonfequencc to guard ^inft any thing but the rains and cold. When they find it too warm, they direfily go into the water to cool themfelves, it being a matter of indiflFerence to them whether it is night or day. I ce- quefted of my friend, in the building of my houf^»I might have' windows in it, one at' each end, one cm caoh ^de the door^ aig4 one at the back, for the benefit of both light light NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. light and air. He iaid it (hould be done as I deiired ; and every thing being fettled to general fatisfacftion refpe<5t- ing the building, we proceeded up the valley, attended by a number of the natives of both fexes, young and old, who behaved with the greateft hofpitality and friendfhip, preffing me earneftly to go into every houfe we came to, and partake of the beft fare in their power to give ; and numbers of the mothers bringing me their children to ho-ne, that is falute them, by touching nofes ;, my compliance with which feemed to give them infinite fa- tisfadion ; and I can fafcly affirm it gave me equally as much : I was delighted to fee fo much happineA in the faces of hundreds of the Indians whom we had formerly fo much reafon to think were a treacherous people. This excurfion gave me a frefli opportunity of admiring tlie amazing ingenuity and induftry of the natives in laying out their taro and fugar-cane grounds ; the greateft part of which are made upon the banks of the river, with ex^ ceeding good caufeways made with ftones and earth, lead- ing up the valleys and to each plantation ; the taro- beds are in general a quarter of a mile over, dammed in, and; they have a place in one part of the bank, that ferves as a gateway. When the rains commence, which is in the winter feafonj, the river fwells with the torrents from the mountains, and overflows their taro- beds ; and when the rains are over, and the rivers decreafe, the dams are ftop- pcd up, and the water kept in to nourifli the taro and fugar-cane during the dry fcafon ; the water in the beds is generally about one foot and a half, or two feet, over a muddy bottom ; the fugar-cane generally in lefs water, grows very large and fine, and is a great article of fjod. with the natives, particularly the lower clafs j the. taro alfo CHAP. ]X. 1787. February. Tuefday 6. 1787- February Tuetday 6. 192 A V O Y A O E T O T H E ^ "ixf ^' ^^^ grows frequpntly as large a^ a man's head, and'k' efteemed the beft bread-kind they have ; they frequently make a pudding of it, which they keep till it becomes L little four, and then they are very fond 6f it, preferying it to every thing elfe. The Indians that M'ere a little while at fea with me almofl fretted themfelves to death when their ftock of po-e was exhaufled, which was very foon done, from the immoderate quantity they ate of it. I have feen my friend Abbenooe eat near two quarts of it at a meal, beudes a quantity of fifh or pork. While we were walking among thefe taro-beds a number of the natives were in them, gathering it and fugar-cane to fiipply the fliips ; they were up to their middle in water. After gratifying my curiofity amongil the plantations, my friend accompanied me to a large houfe iituated under the hills on the Weft fide the valley, and about two or three miles from the fea-heach. I found this houfe to be very large, commodious, and clean, with a new mat on thf floor ; on the left fide of the door was a wooden image of a tolerably large fize, feated in a chair, which nearly re- fbmbled one of our armed chairs ', there was a grafs-plat all round the image, and a fmall railing made of wood ; befide the chairs were feveral to-e's and other fmall ar- ticles. My friend informed me that this houfe had been built with the to-e I had given him upon my firQ. calling at Oneehow, and that the other articles were prefents that I^had made him at different periods, and that the image was in commemoration of my having been amongft them. Few people were admitted into this hotufe. Amongft other articles in it were feveral drums ; one in particular was very lai^ge, the head of which was ;niade out of the {kin of the lar^e (hark I have already mentioned ; and ■- m . <*■■.■ CHAP. IX. <■■ - ..a 1787. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. and I was told thcfe drums were dedicated to their gods. We had fome refreftiments ; fuch as pork, falted fi(h, taro, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, and then returned to the beach. February. The long-boat being in fhore to take off fome provifions of "' '^ different kinds that were collected by a taa-boo-a-ra, or " general tax laid on the natives by the king ; I ordered the officer in her to remain at anchor a little diftance from the beach until fome of the things came down ; and during the whole time had great reafon to be well fatisfied with , the natives who attended, fome in canoes, others fwim- ming about. I went off in the long-boat, accompanied by Abbenooeand fome other chiefs, who were highly delighted with the fail to the fliip, as there happened to be a very brifk breeze ; the method of fleering with the rudder took much of their attention ; and Abbenooe took a fpell at the helm, and faid that he would try to fleer their canoe in the fame way. On my arrival on board I found every thing in good order. It is not in my power to give half the praifes that are due to thefe people, from the king to the tow-tow ; their attention and unwearied induflry in • fupplying us with everv thing in their power was beyond example; their hofpitality and generoflty were unbounded; and their eagernefs to do us adts of kindnefs was amazing. . I hope, by the help of their own ingenuity, they will be enabled, from their obfervations upon our methods of fail- ing, building, 8cc. to bring thefe articles among themfelves to much greater advantage than they are at prefent. My friend Abbenooe's attachments to both fliips companies was fingular ; in general he flept on board the King George, where I had a cot hung up for him in the cabin, with which he was very much pleafed ; the old man had ibme falls before he was ufed to it, by getting in at one C c fide 194 AVOYAGETOTHE ^ *ix* ^' ^*^^ ^^^ rolling out at the other ; but he always got up *- - " -» again with the greateft good nature, and in a very little FeJiuary. time furmounted that difficulty. Wednef. 7. Qn the 7th the people were employed in getting pro- vifions, which Abbenooe informed me he had got ready for the boats. About ten o'clock the boats returned well, loaden v/ith hogs and other proviflons. Tiiorfdays. This day the king arrived in the bay, attended hy. feV veral large canoes ;, he came on board, and appeared very, well pleafed at the friendly intercourfe that fubfifted be- tween his fubjefts and us. Our people, always went on: fliore unarmed,, which prevented, the natives, having any apprehenfions of danger, and created-.a mutual confidence in each other. The king ftaid on board a few hours, and I then attended him on. board the Queen Charlotte, to fes captain Dixon. Friday 9. From the Qth to the it2th nothing particular occurred: Light winds from the Weftward, with clear pleafant wea- ther. The fwell fronv South Weft ftill continuing, led ma to think that we fhould have the wind, ^in* from that quarter ; and not wifliing to ride out. another Weftem gala in our prefent fituationj I determined the firft opportunityi to weigh and get out of the bay.. About ten o'clock the wind hauled to the Weft North Weft, with which we weighed and ftood out of the bay : the Q^een Charlettei in company. At nine o'clock, the Queen Charlotte. being- a confiderable way a-ftern, we wore fliip and.hove-to, with) the ftiip's head to the Northward, to give her an opportunityi of joining us. Three canoes came off with provifions^ After NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I9jr After having fold their cargoes, they took their leaVe of us ; ^ "j^^ ' as did our faithful friend, who left his fon on board, wifhing to go with us. The Queen Charlotte in company. From this day to the i6th nothing particular occurred. » 1787- February. Early on the i6th our old friend Abbenooe came off FfW*/ •*• from the Eaft point of Atoui in a large double canoe, and brought us a fine hog and fome taro. I made him a pre- fent, with which he was fatisfied, and immediately went on board the Queen Charlotte ; and on his leaving her, I bore away to the Weftward, intending to run for Oneehow, to make a trial for the recovery of our anchors left there. Should I fucceed, I meant then, if poflible, to return to Wymoa Bay, and endeavour to get the Queen Charlotte's fmall bower. I (hould, if there had been any dependence on the weather, have tried for her's firft; but as the anchors at Oneehow were the greateft obje(9:, and there was the moft likely probability of getting them (lying in fhoal- water, and the beft bower having a buoy on it), I was glad to embrace the firft fpurt of good weather, with an ^ Eafterly wind, to make the trial ; as a Northerly, South- erly, or Wefterly wind create (iich a fwel4, that it would make it impoffible to do any thing of that kind. At fix o'clock webrought-to with the main-topfail to the maft. My reafon for taking this flep was, that in cafe the breeze fhould fail, and prevent us from proceeding to Oneehow, we might be near Wymoa in the morning ; from whence there was a probability of procuring fome vegetables. When we brought- to, the extremes of Atoui bore about North and North Weft, about feven miles diftance, until daylight, when the appearance of the wind being fettled £0 the Eaft ward, we bore away, and made fail for Onee- C c 2 how. C' CHAP. IX. February. Priday 16. 19^ AVOYAGETO T H E how^ Served half a pound of l^read per man, and a pound and a half of frefh pork. At noon the extremes of Onee- how bore Weft South Weft ; diftance from South-head about five leagues. The clouds to the Weftward flying from South South Weft, and a fwell from the South Weft, induced me to bring-to, and wait until thefe appear- ances of an approaching Wefterly wind fubfided. I think we may with great truth ajfHrm, that during the time we were among thefe iflands we had more difagreeable weather and crofs winds, than was experienced in the Re- folution and Difcovery during their whole voyage, which was upwards of four years. Saturday 17. MODERATE brcczcs from the Eaft South Eaft and South Eaft. About two o'clock pafted the South-head of Onee- how, and run towards Yam Bay ; and at five anchored with the fmall bower in twenty-nine fathoms, over fine white fand j the Queen Charlotte anchoring at the fame time a little to the Southward. The weather continuing fine, all hands were up, and began to look for our anchors ;, both of which, in the courfe of the day, were recovered^ and got on board. Sunday 18. About two o'clock in the morning began to un- moor, got the kedge on board, and began heaving in the bower cable. The weather beginning to look unfettled, with a fwell continuinq; from the Weftward, led me to think we ftioufd very foon have bad weather, and a Wefterly wind. Experience had fufficiently taught me that we could not ride in this Bay with the wind any way to the Weftward of North or South, without imminent danger. At five weighed and made fail: the Queen Charlotte in company. Stood to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. '97 to the Weftward until we got a convenient diftance from ^ ^^^ ^* the land, which was when we loft hearing the furf, and ^- — ^— — « then Northward. During the night fteered from North February. Weft to North Eaft, with a moderate breeze. The wind ^'""*'^ '*' chopping fuddenly round to the South Weft, with rain and every appearance of bad weather, induced me to haul to the North Weft, under the three topfails, till daylight, which was about fix o'clock ; bore away to the North Eaft at fcven ; faw the Weft part of Atoui, bearing Eaft by Soutl^ diftant eight leagues ; and at half paft feven faw th^ Weft part of Oneehow, bearing South, diftant feven or eight leagues. About ten the weather cleared. up, and the wind light and unfettled, from Eaft South Eaft to South. At noon a moderate breeze; the ifland of Atoui bearing from Eaft to South Eaft by South, diftant from the neareft part about fix leagues ; our courfe about Eaft for the North fide of Atoui; latitude 22° 29' North. During the time of working for our anchors I employed fome hands in procuring yams, fait, and water, which the natives brought us off in. fmall quantities, and before we got under fail I think we had purchafed yams enough for three or four days. I cannot too highly commend the behaviour of both the fliips companies during the whole of the voyage to this time ; fometimss trifling differences have arifen ; but I think I may venture to fay there never were lefs among fuch a nuniber of people ;. their attention and unwearied induftry during the time of getting our anchors^- without the leaft murmuring or backwardnefs, • y delighted me, although they had fcarce time to fwallow a- mputhful of viduals. At CHAP. IX. 1787. Februaiy. .Monday 19. Wedner. 28; A VOYAGE TO THE At one o'clock a fine breeze from the South ; (leering Eaft by South, along the North fide of Atoui. I was in hopes that as we drew near the North fide of the iflands we fliould have canoes ofF with hogs and vegetables. We liad pretty well drained the South fide. As to Oneehow, I believe were the hogs all coUeded together, they would not amount to a dozen ; and I was afraid we fhould fall very fhort of a fupply of yams, as my old friend Abbenooe informed me, that fince the ftock we before carried from the iflands, they have negledted cultivating the land. Indeed his information agreed with my own . obfervations while on fliore ; for I walked over a great deal of ground lying entirely wafte. It appeared to me that a number of the natives that formerly inhabited this ifland have quitted it to refide at Atoui j probably the iron which they procured from us formerly, enabled them to purchafe pofiefilons in Atoui ; as Oneehow is but a poor ipot, abounding in fcarce any thing but yams, po- tatoes, fiigar-cane, and the fwect root, with a very trifling quantity «f wood : whereas Atoui is amply provided with many articles of provifions, particukrly the taro, which the natives prefer to yams or potatoes ; and I am fenfible that none of them will live at Oneehow that can procure a fufiiciency to refide at Atoui. During our run along the North and Weft parts of Atoui, we faw no appearance of any harbour. Latitude 22° 14 North. From the 20th to this day the people tvarioufly em- ployed on board, repairing the rigging, &c. ftanding off and on for a favourable wind to take us to Wymoa Bay; where we anchored this day with the fmaJl bower in thirty- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 195 thirty-feven fathoms water; black muddy fand j the Eaft ^ ^^^^ ^' point of the bay bearing Eaft three quarters South, and the ^ ' l" ^ Weft point North Weft by South ; the river's mouth North Februwy. hall Weft, and the valley that runs up from the village of ^'^"^ ''' Wymoa North Eaft half Eaft ; our diftance from the fhore about two miles. Made an attempt for the Queen Charlotte's anchor without fuccefs. No canoes coming to us this evening, made me fend the whale-boat in ihore ta purchafe fome taro.. Light variable winds, with pleafant weather ; the Much. people employed in procuring provifions ; moft of the. " *'^* canoes having left the bay with the greateft part of th& chiefs, and gone to Apoonoo. This day a man of fome little Gonfequenccj named No-ho-mi-te-hi-tec, who had been very often on board, and rendered us a., good deal of afliftance in procuring,provifions, prefled me.very much to take him into the ftiip with us. The man appeared fo very, earneft in his felicitations, that at laft I confented to his, going in the fliip, and meant to have given him a trip ta the North Weft coaft ; and at our next touching at thefc iftands, either to have left him there or brought him ta England. He informed me, that he had colleded a.num->' ber of little articles, which he made a prefent of to his father^, a very old. man, almoft worn out with age. But; Poo-a-re-a-re, one of the king's meflengers, who rules with, unbounded fway when the king and principal chiefs are from the iftand, knowing the old man was poC-, £tffpd of a great many articles, went to him. .and demanded i all his treafure, confifting of a few to-es, , beads, rings^ , and various little articles which his fon - had given him. . The old man denied having any thing; for he. had: 12.; taken : 1i 209 C H A IX. 1787. March. ThurWay i kf. ■A VOYAGE TO THE taken care not to lodge them in his houfe, but had de- pofired them in a hole in the ground at a convenient dif- tance from the houle. The meffengcr ftill perfifted in his tcllmg him where they were, and the old man continuing obftinate, the meffenger caught hold of him by the throat, and threatened that if he would not deliver up his goods he would murder him ; and indeed he had nearly ftrangled him before he would fhew him where his treafure was depofited. At laft the old man was obliged to difcover all, which was immediately taken away by the mefleriger. No-ho-mi-te-hi-tee landed with his canoe juft at the time, and faw his father in this fituation, but did not interfere ; perhaps not for want of courage, but dread- ing to lay hands on a meffenger of the king's, . who are held in great efteem. He left his father to get out of the affair, and came on board as before related. Being pretty late in the evening, and knowing we never allowed any of them to come on board in the night, he took good care to call frequently out for Po-pootee, in a moft piteous tone, to let me know it was he, and that he wanted to come on board, which he did. He then told me his forrowful tale, and wanted me to punifli the meffenger for his ill behaviour ; but had I been inclined to do it, I could not; for he never after that put himfelf into my power. No-ho-mi-te- hi-tee in a few days after that, being tired of living on fait provifions, left me; and I had no opportunity of feeing the king or Abbenooe before I left the iflands, to inquire what was done about it. From this time to the 3d, em- ployed in getting provifions, when we weighed and came to fail (Queen Charlotte in company), and ftood out of the bay, with an intention to proceed immediately to the coaft, leaving for the fecond time thefe friendly iflands, 13 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 201 C H A P. X. Pajfage from the Sandwich IJlands to the Coaji of America, — Good EffeSis of Beer made of the Sweet Root. — Ar- rival at Montague IJland. — Anchor in Ha7ining s Bay, — Boats fent on a trading Expedition, — Meet with a Veffel from Bengal. — Their diflrefftng Situation. — Re- frefhments fent to the Nootka. — Plan of future Proceed- ings. — Vifited by a powerful Tribe of Indians. — Their Propenfty to Theft. — Departure from Montague IJland. ^—The Ships feparate. — Arrival of the King George in Hinchinbrooke Cove, E now proceeded for the coaft a fecond time, and c h^a p. till the 19th nothing of material confequence oc- W •curred. Latitude 26* 2 North. This day, concluding my- u^tlL felf about twenty-five or thirty leagues to the Eaftward of ^°"*^'> '3' the Refolution and Difcovery's track towards the coaft, and nearly in the latitude that the iflands of Saint Maria la Gorta are laid down, having a ftrong gale with very thick weather, I did not think it prudent to run during the night; there- fore at fix o'clock handed the forefail and brought-to un- der clofe-reefed maintopfaiU mizen-ftay-fail, and foretop- maft-ftay-fail ; fhip's head to the South Weft. Queen Charlotte brought-to clofe under our Ice quarter. During the night it continued to blow very liard, with heavy fqualls from the South South Eaft, D d Fro!^ 301 CHAP. X. 1787. April. Tkurfday la. A VOYAGE TO THE From this time to the 1 2th of April we kept our courfc for the coaft ; latitude 5 2° 46' North. Both (hips companies were very well, except the carpenter of the Qiieen Char- lotte, who had been a long time troubled with a lingering complaint ; and Richard Greenhult, one of my quarter- mailers, who had been very ill at the iflands, had reco- vered amazingly, and was now out of danger. The method of brewing the fweet root having already been taken notice of, at this time I fliall only obferve, that three quarts of molafTes were put into fix gallons of beer, in addition to a pint of eflence of malt ; and after being a ihort time in bottles, it was nothing inferior to the fineft cyder. Richard Greenhult had a bottle given him daily, and it was found of infinite fervice to him ; indeed its good efFefts were almoft inftantaneous ; and it certainly is a mod excellent and valuable medicine ; for the poor man was fo reduced with an almoft continual fpitting and vomiting of blood, that at one time my fur- geon was of opinion he could not live many days. We kept ftanding to the North Weft, with frefli breezes Monday 16. in thc Southcm and Weftern boards. On the i6th, the water being much coloured, we tried for foundings, but got no bottom with 140 fathoms of line. Our latitude at that time was 58° 10' North, and 147* 18' longitude. In our laft paflage to the coaft, in nearly the fame latitude, and 2° 1 5' longitude to the Weftward of our prefcnt fitu- ation, we ftruck foundings in feventy fathoms water, which inclines me to think, that after getting to the Eaft- ward of that longitude, though in the fame latitude, the water NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. water deepens very much ; and to the Wcftward of that longitude, and in the fame latitude, it (Koals, efp^cially on drawing towards Cape Greville, or thf Ifle Sain : Her- mogenes. At three o'clock in the afternoon we faw a feal, and pafTed feveral patches of the fea-leck, and pieces of drift-wood, but got no foundings with 150 fathoms of line. 20 'J C H A 1'. X. «78;. April. Monduy i6. Our latitude at noon c\\ the 17th, by double altitudes, To«fday 17. was s?'* 5^'i ^t the fame nmr the latitude, by account, was 58* 2'!'': iHs uiffer«"v;e ' odd no regard to; as there was a probabilicv thi^t npit':':i fhe watch or rhe altitudes were to be depended, on ; but on fpcaking captain Dixon, I found he had got an a! ;r:ude by I'.is tine-piece when it was very near noon, whicli gsw^ riic latiti'de, 57* 50'; fo that we rrvujl have been fct by jl current bore North by Eaft, and the Weft fide North, diftant from April each point five or fix leagues. At nine o'clock the Weft '^"''"''^ point of Montague Ifland bore North Eaft one fourth North, five leagues diftant, and the middle of the palTage North half Eaft. I now judged that we were in about thirty-five fathoms water, and on founding we had thirty- four fathoms over a bottom of fand snd fhells. 1 have found from experience, that in going oif in the fame di- redion the water deepens gradually, and in about fifty fa- thoms there is a muddy fandy bottom; but on crofllng that diredion either to the Eaftward or Weftward, the water deepens very quick into eighty, and upwards of one hundred fathoms. The wind failing us a little, the whale-boat was fent a-head to tow. At noon, the ex- tremes of Montague Ifland in fight bore Eaft by South five miles, and North by Eaft four leagues, our diftance from the neareft fliore about three miles. On founding, we had fixteen fathoms water over a rocky bottom. Our ob- fervation gave 59° 50' latitude, and, according to the bear- ings and diftance of the South Weft Point of Montague Ifland, I made its latitude to the 59* 47', which I am certain is right within a mile or two. In Captain Cook's chart that point is fituated in the latitude of 59° 36', which is eleven miles too much to the Southward ; but as he had no opportunity of getting an oblervation near it, and trufted to his fliip's run, he might eafily make a mif- take of eleven miles. Mr. Edgar in his chart has placed it very near the truth. According to good obfervations taken of the fun and moon on board both fliips a fliort time before vye made' the land, and brought forward by the p. 24. 2o6 A VOYAGE TO THE %\ ^ ^x^ **' *^^ ^*P* "'"j ^^ agreed to a mile with the longitude, <- --"-' which Captain Cook has laid the South Weft point down April. iUt Tuerday 14. It may not be amifs to obferve, that all (hips coming into this harbour ought to keep the fhore of Montague Idand on board as clofe as they can ; for if they get ofF into the chamiel, and over towards the Weft fhore, they will foon. bring fixty, feventy, and eighty fathoms water, and that depth too clofe in fnore for anchoring. Towards one o'clock an appearance of a good* bay or harbour prefented itfelf on the Montague Ifland fhore, to- wards which I direfted my courfe. This bay is fituatedf five or fix leagues within the South Weft point of Mon- tague Iflaud, and nearly a-breaft on the ifland that forms the Weft fide of the Channel. At two o'clock the whale- boat was fent to found and examine the bay. In the fpacc of an hour fhe returned, and the officer who was in her reported that the fhips could ride in it with fafety. On this I hauled in for it, and anchored at four o'clock in twenty fathoms water over a muddy bottom. We moored with the beft bower in twenty-one fathoms over the fame bottom. In running into the bay juft off the South point, we had feven and eight fathoms- water over a' bottom of black mud and fand. This bank appeared to run nearly acrofs the mouth of the bay, and, after paffing it, we deepened the water to twenty-one fathoms, in which depth we anchored. When moored, the South point of the bay bore. South Weft by South two miles and a half, and the North point North North Weft half Weft, two- miles diftant, our diftance. from the neareft fliore abouf one. T^tHi 1 I . SKKT en O J!' M 5 T.K O ID' H IfAItB O UH , o/t //if WKST SEDE OyMOWTAGTT I . _ZV*>a^n>«<4r/£inr>r<rth the €cn ban » it >ru- lick ibly .ing on id I I fa- le's fel J of ned lit- loat her the in- nie rd- fter we 'ere NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «i5 «7 ?• May. Friday 4. r were obliged to warp in. In heaving up our dream an- ^ "^.^ ^* chor, the flock broke clofe to the (hank, and as it was an iron flock, the anchor was rendered ufeleTs. This ac- cident was likely to prove a very unlucky one, as 1 had fparcd Captain Dixon an anchor in the room of one which he lo(l at Atoui; To that I now had not a fmall one to fleady the fliip with except a kedge, which would not hold with the lead wind. By three o'clock, having warped the ihip into a good birth, we anchored with the bcft bower in feven fathoms and a half water over a muddy bottom, and moored with a hawfer made fafl to the North fhore. When moored, we lay in five fathoms at low water. The people were employed in getting my long-boat and the whale-boat belonging to each fhip ready for going up the Sound on a trading expedition, under the direftion of Captain Dixon ; and in the mean time I pro- pofcd flaying with the fhips, in order to have them hauled on fliore, for the purpofc of cleaning and paying their bottoms. We could aifo fill our water, and do many ? other neccfTary works, this harbour being a very conve- nient one for all our various employments. Next morning at daylight the boats fct out on their Saturday j. expedition, and by five o'clock were out of fight clear of the harbour. Our various operations now began. I fent a large party to clear away che floncs on a part of the beach, wlicrc I intended to lay the fhip. At ten o'clock we began to haul her in, and by noon (he was placed. Some hands were employed in cutting pine branches to bream with. 'I'he cooper was fent on fhore, with twa afUftants, to brew fpriice beer, and others were bufied in the hold. In the afternoon the ftarboard-fidL- of the ihip was i'nh/t.tfi,i iij (fit .(. / tlt'f'ti hifJ.S{it,'ktf,ii. //' • ho. /A .y A'A' 7 Y// of P.tHT r/ 'l/ii M.' Hkst sijji: of Moyr.mr jsl.im) Viirinliun i.'t>-A . Nalhaiiii'l I'lirllocK 14 ! li , I .■■■ <■•■ / I 1 I'iiIiIijIi,! „i Ih, ,(,/ lU-ntl h^J.SlBi-Miilr %J.-',.li„HhKm .* >* /^ J y Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRfcET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (7I6)«72-4S03 ■1i^ V iV >k\ ^^ 6^ I 22ie AVOYAGETOTHfi Most of our necefSuy bufinefs being now completed, the armourers forges and the brewing utenfils were brought on board, and every thing was got in readinefs for fail- ing. At fix o'clock in the afternoon the long-boat fet off for Cook's River, her crew in good fpirits, and well found for a fix weeks cruife. In the evening four canoes came along-fide, but they brought no trade ; and after ftaying a fhort time, paddled away for the fhore. Sunday 13. j^ ^hc aftcrnoon of the 13th we were vifited by two large Indian boats, containing about forty men, women, and children ; a number of fmall canoes attended them. They brought only two very indifferent (kins and a few fifli, which I bought, and made their chief, whofe name I underftood was Shee-na-waa, ahandfome prefent. Shee- na-waa I found was chief of the moft powerful tribe in the Sound ; they were audacious thieves, and, what was very remarkable, even the little boys were furnifhed.with fmall hooked flicks for the purpofe of picking pockets. Our vifiters remained about the fhip till near fix o'clock, when they left us and went out of the harbour. At this time the Queen Charlotte's boat was about two miles without the harbour with a fifhing party ; and the Indian boats immediately joined her.. Being rather uneafy for fear of their pillaging the boat, I kept ^ look-out on them with my glafs, and prefently perceived a ftruggle between the two parties j on this I immediately fet off in my whale- boat, fhe being always ready armed ; and leaving direc- tions with my mate to follow in the yaul, puflied out to- wards them with all fpeed. The Indians no fooner faw 6 . the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the boat round the point than they took to their paddles and went ojfF as faft as they were able. I rowed out and joined the Charlotte's boat, and found the Indians had taken away all their fifhing-lines, and were juft forcing their anchor out of the boat when I hove in fight. On enquiry I found captain Dixon's people had no fire-arms in the boat; which was very unlucky, as even the fight of a mufket will preveiit the Indians from attempting any violence ; fo thoroughly have the Ruffians taught them by experience the fatal efFeds of fire-arms. Captain Meares told me (and he had his information from the Ruffians whom he (aw at Kodiac, where he touched on his way hither) that a party of them, fince our vifit in the Refolution, had wintered in the Sound, and (accord- ing to their defcription of the place) in the very harbour we now were at anchor in, where they had a battle with the natives, .who were beaten off ; but feven Ruffians loft their lives in the fkirmifli. Captain Meares likewife touched at Oonafka, and proceeding from thence along the coaft, he pafled the Schumagin Ifles. When he came as far as what captain Cook calls Whitfuntide Bay, he took it for the entrance into Cook's River, and finding an open- ing, he flood into it, and did not find out his miftake fov- fome time : at length meeting with fome Ruffians, they informed him that the ftrait he then was in led into Cook's River, and that all the land between the Ifle Saint Her- mogenes and the ftrait was the ifland of Kodiac. On re- ceiving this information, captain Meares ftood on, and got into Cook's River near Smoaky Bay ; but was pre- vented by bad weather from proceeding much further. During his fhort ftay in the river, he procured only two 223 CHAP. 1787. Ma/. Sunday 13. 224 A VOYAGE TO THE c H^A P. ^^Q fea-ottcr fkins ; the natives about Cape Douglas and Mount Saint Augufti^i being in the Ruflian in- tereft. 1.787. my. Every thing being now ready for fea, we weighed an- Monday 14. chor at daylight in the morning of the 14th) and with a light breeze from the North Eaft, proceeded out of the harbour ; and after getting out of the bay, hauled up to- wards Prince William's Sound. During the former part of the day we had light variable winds, fo that the boats were fent a-head to tow the fhip ; at three in the afternoon a fine breeze came on from the South Weft, with which we ftood over for Hinchinbrooke Cove. At fix o'clock I fent my whale-boat on board for captain Dixon ; and this appearing a good opportunity for his getting out of the Sound, we determined on feparating, and each fhip to adopt the plan that has already been mentioned* Soon af- terwards captain Dixon returned on board, and we took leave of each other; the Queen Charlotte (haped her courfe out of the Sound, and I bent mine for Hinchin- brooke Cove. At nine o'clock the South Weft breeze failed us, and we had light winds about North Eaft, right down the Cove. At that time we were clofe to fome rocks that lie at the entrance, and in fifty fathoms water; and upon this the boats were fent a-head, and we ftood over for the South ftiore of the Cove. The wind con- tinued fcant all night, and that little was diretftly againft us ; fo that we could barely hold our own. I would have anchored within half a mile of the fliore, but we had near fifty fathoms water; fo that it was neceftary to k^p *y>der way and wait for a breeze; and at fix o'clock next I morning NOR'^H WEST COAST OF AMERICA. atg morning a fine breeze fprung up from the South South ^ "j^^ '• Weft, with which we run up; and obferving a point — '^— f, well up in an arm of the cove, that promifed good melter iJaJi round it, I fent the whale-boat to examine and found the **•""*■" '♦• place ; and following with the {hip, I prefently faw that there was an excellent harbour round the point ; there- fore ftood in, and. at eight o'clock came to anchor with the beft bower in feyen fathoms water, over a muddy bot- tom, and moored with the £nall bower« .-.ui. 'iUi Gg •1 1 . ( 'i*^. A VOYAQE TO THE C H A P. XI. MioHs *i^ ihfi Ship wii Sea Otter Shins. -^Boaisfint Oft a ttadifJig Expedition.-^Plundered by the Indians. — RetifTH ^f the Btat s,-^ Arrival tf the Nootka. — AJifi in getting her reitdjfor Sta.^-^Long-hoat fent to Csoks^ River, — Departure of the Nootka.-^Long-hoat' s Re-^ turn. — Sent a fecond Time. — Fijited by different Tribes of Indians. — Various Employments carried on, — Abun- dance of Salmon^ Herrings^ and Crabs. — Arrival of the Lang-boat. — Departure from Port Etches. C u A I". ^ I THOUGH our fltuation was a very eligible one, yet ^ ^'_ . J[ I found, on founding around the fliip, that we m!^* co^ld ^^.ve a ftill better birth, by lying higher up tiie har- Tuefday'is. bour; I therefore determined to fiiift about a cable's length further in; but the people being greatly fatigued by towing the veffel all the preceding night, I deferred my defign for the prefent, and gave them leave to take fome reft. In the courfe of the day feveral canoes came along-fide^ from whom I purchafed ten or twelve good fea-ptter (kins.. Several , parts of the harbour appearing likely to afford fome fiih, we hauled the feine frequently, but met with w«dnef. 16. no fuccefs^ In the morning of the 1 6th we hove up the fmall bower, and after hauling the fhip within fliore. of the beft bower, let it go again in five fathoms water over TnuNbrlK r. li. IS. ZmfmaAjiKtSat^ JuHiiAetl /unt <} t/jtf Oy J. SinAjlmU i. 6S>uMi'nf TT as(l C H i XI. Maj Tuefda) Wedncf. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 227 1787. May, Wcdncf. 16. over a muddy bottom, and moored the fhip head and ftern. ^ \^^ ^ When moored, we had the Sound open to the South Weft between two points of land, about half a point of the compafs : through which fpacc we could fee any thing that pafted in or out of the Sound by Cape Hinchinbrooke paf- fage. The land all around us had a dreary appearance, being covered with fnow five or fix feet deep, quite down to high water mark; fo that the only fpace where we could walk was on the beach after the tide had fallen. At the head of the harbour were two fine frefii-water rivulets, likely to produce plenty of falmon at a proper feafon. A few of the natives came along-fide with fome good fea-otter fkins, and a fmall quantity of fifh, for which we were obliged to pay extravagantly. In the morning of the i8th I went in the whale-boat Friday is. to examine an arm trending to the Eaftward above our prefent harbour. After pafllng the upper point, I found the arm foon terminated in a flat fhore, with fhoal water at • fome diftance from the head of it. I then rowed along the North fhore, and difcovered an arm leading in between two points, not more than a quarter of a mile diftant from each other. I ftood in for the entrance, and had five and fix fathoms water over a muddy bottom between the two points. The paflage now widened confiderably, and branched out in oppofite diredions ; one arm leading nearly South Weft, and the other North Eaft. I went up the South Weft arm, and carried five and fix fathoms water over a muddy bottom for more than two miles; it then grew flat at a confiderable diftance from the head. After founding this arm, I returned with an intention of found- ing the other; but on getting a fight of the fhip, I ob- ferved the enfign flying, which was a fignal for canoes G g 2 being 1787. May. Friday 181 Sund 1/20. aa8 AVOYAGETOTHE being along-fide: I therefore deferrcfl founding, and rowed immediately for the fhip, where I arrived about noon, and purchafed a few good {kins from the natives. On my inquiring for falmon, they gave me to underftand that there was none at prefcnt ; but that when the fnow melted from the hills, there would be plenty. As the articles we had to barter with did not feem to be held in great eftimation, I determined to difpatch the whale-boat and yaul, under the direction of Mr. Crefsle- man the fecond mate and Mr. Bryant, on board the Nootka, to requeft of captain Meares fome articles of trade which I wanted, and knew he could well fpare; at the fame time they were to trade with the natives up the Sound if any opportunity offered. I intended to have gone myfelf, .?, . or fent Mr. M*Leod on this bufinefs; but he had been fo frequently laid up with a complaint in the bladder, that I could neither truft him with the care of the fhip for any • < length of time, or fend him out with the boat§, for fear of his complaint returning at a time when he might be particularly wanted. In the forenoon we had frefh gales from the Eaftward, but the weather growing moderate about two o'clock, I fent the boats ofF to proceed up the Sound. We now had no boat left by the fhip, nor any other way of getting on fhore but in the Sandwich Ifland canoe; and fhe being very dangerous for any who did not underfland how to manage her, it became neceflary to con- trive fome fafer kind of conveyance. Accordingly the carpenter, afTifled by the cooper and three other hand«, begun to build a punt of twelve feet long, fix feet wide, and about three feet deep. This plan was firfl fuggefled by the carpenter, and I approved of it very much, as the punt NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. punt could not fail to be ufeful in wooding and watering whilft the boats were abfent. Next morning feveral canoes came along-iidc with a Monday »i. trading party; they brought thirteen very good fea-otter fkins and a few indifferent ones. The harbour affording very fine crabs and muffels, 1 fent a number of the people to procure fome, and they returned in the evening with a good quantity of each. The weather being moderate, our ? operations en fhore went brifkly forward; one party were employed in cutting wood, another in fawing plank, and the carpenter, with his affiftants, were bufy about the punt. In the afternoon of the 2 2d two canoes vifited us and Tutfd«y2i. brought a few good {kins. If I underftood them right, the adjacent country was called Tacklaccimuke, and that it was principally inhabited by a tribe, the name of whofe chief was Nootuck, and the name of another chief be- longing to the fame tribe was Coocha. ^ Three canoes belonging to Nootuck's tribe came to the fliip on the 23d, but brought nothing to fell, except a Wedner. 13. few halibut. Indeed, moft of the fea-otter fkins we have procured fince our arrival here were green, and recently taken from the animal ; fo that we were obliged to ftretch and drefs them ourfelves. On the 74th we had ftrong gales from the Eaft by South Thurfday 14. with rain, which prevented any canoes from coming near us. In the afternoon, the carpenter and his party launched the punt, and came on board in her. In 1787* M«y. Friday 25. A VOYAGE TO THE In the forenoon of the 25th the whale-boat returned from the Sound : they had parted with the yaul juft off the North point of the bay. Mr. Crefsleman brought none of the things I fent for to the Nootka except a com- pafs; the other articles, captain Mcares. affured me I Ihould have on his joining me near Cape.Hinchinbrooke, which he propofed doing as foon as poflible. Saturday 26. In the forcnoon of the 26th we had a very heavy gale of wind from theEaftward, and the yaul not making her appear- ance, it gave me great uneaj(inefs, as her crew were not only quite expofed to the weather, but might probably be driven ' out of the Sound and all perifti. Neither could I fend the whale-boat to look for and affift them, without running a ,t ri-iiixit great rifk of lofing her crew likewife. At fix o'clock the gale increafing to a violent degree, with conftant rain and fleet, the top-gallant mafts were got down upon deck, and the topmafts ftruck clofe to the rigging. The wind con- tinued blowing very .ftrong till fix o'clock in the afternoon Sunday jy. of the 27th, when the weather growing rather moderate, I difpatched the whale-boat in (earch of the yaul, with , > proper refrefhments for her crew, if they were fortunate .£* .i4«fKsVv enough to meet with her. At nine o'clock both boats came along-fide, and the yaul's crew were in a much better ftate than I expefted to fee them, though they muft have fuffered very much. The whale-boat met the yaul at the entrance of the bay, making an effort to get in ; but it muft have been a fruitlefs one, had they not met and taken them in tow; for the boats were fcarcely got along-fide before it begun to rain and blow as violently as before. Wednef.30. From this to the 30th, the weather was fo ftrong, that our operations on (horc were greatly retarded, and fcarcely any bufinefs was carried on. During this interval, we had 4 only NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. »5« only three canoes along-fide, with cod and halihut, fuffi- ^ ^^^ ^. cient t» ierve the fliip's company one day, and a few to- s — ^^ lembly good fea-otter (kins. On the 30th the weather wfj.' growing moderate, the people were fent on (hore to cut ^**'"*'- 3'^ ' WQod and bring off water for prefent yie. On the 4th June the weather appearing fettled, I dif- r^ne. patched the whale-boat and yaul on a trading expedition, °" *^ ^ under the dire<3:ion of MeiTrs. Crefsleman and Bryant. I at firft intended to have fent them round Cape Hinchin- brooke, and on toward Kayes liland; but on iecond con--. fideration I judged it would anfwer my purpofe beft to fend them up an opening lltuated between that we lay in, and Snug Corner Cove, by which means they would ftand a chance of obtaining part of the trade intended for the Nootk^ J but by going on the other fide, they were likely to meet only with Indians coming to the King George. la the evening I fent a few hands in the canoe to procure fome crabs, and in two hours they returned with a good quantity of fine ones. Juft as night came on, a few In- dians came along-fide, bringing fome halibut and cod, but Qofurs.^ . Early the next morning I fent the carpenter with a Tuefday $. party of men over to the North fhore to cut fome flicks for fpare topmafts, a mizen-maft, and a main-yard; an- other paity were employed fawing boards, the cooper brewing fpruce beer, and the remainder of the fhip's com- pany were clearing the gun-room and airing the fails i fbrac of which had got wet during the late bad weather. OT On 232 C H A P. XI. 1787. Jane. Widnef. 6u tfV' Thurfdayy. A VOYAGE TO THE On the 6th, the weather being fine, I.fent the boatfwain with four of the people to dig a piece of ground for a garden on a fmall ifland fituated in the entrance of the cove, and which I named Garden Ifland. After the ground was ready, we fowed variety of feeds in it, fuch as cab- bage, onion, Scotch kale, radifh, favoy, purflane, thyme, celery, fpinach, cauliflower, turnip, muftard, rape and crefs, with peas, beans, French beans, and lettuce, be- fides oats and barley. The foil being tolerably good, it would be rather extraordinary if, among fo great a va- riety, nothing fliould come to perfedtion. In the after- noon of the 7th a fmall open canoe, with five Indians in it, came along-fide, from whom I bought two good fea- otter ikins, and a large quantity of fine cod. At ten o'clock in the evening the whale-boat and yaul .returned from their expedition with a few very good (kins, which they purchafed of a chief, whole name was Sheen- aawa, and whom I conjeifture to be the fame perfon that paid us a vifit at Montague Ifland. I intended them for a longer trip, but it feems they unluckily got into a large flat bay, where the boats grounded, and before they could extricate themfelves from the flioals, the tide ebbed, and left them dry for near two miles round* Sheenaawa and his tribe, which confifted of near two hundred men, faw their fituation, and paid them a vifit, moft of them armed with fpears and knives. The boats crews at firft were greatly alarmed at their fituation; but their fears rather fubfiflied when they found that plunder was what the In- dians wanted. This they endeavoured to prevent, but at the fame time kept their plunderers in good temper, which 7 was NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 233 A I'. was the moft prudent method the people could poflibly ^ ^^^ have taken ; for had they adted in any other manner, and *— ~- ftrove to have prevented them from dealing by force of June." arms, not a man in either boat could have efcaped the ""^ "^ ^' vengeance of their numerous opponents. This plundering party obtained an excellent booty in their own eftimation. They ftole moft of the trading, articles, two mufquets, two piftols, and fome of the people's clothes ; and what old Sheenawaa feemed to regard as a thing of ineftimable va- lue, was Mr. Crefsleman's quadrant, which he feized to- gether with his ephemeris and requifite tables. It was at this time that they purchafed the fkins I have juft men- tioned, Sheenaawa's people affedling to traffic as a fort of introdudion to their depredations. During this fhort ex- pedition our people had an opportunity of feeing that the land on which Cape Hinchinbrooke is fituated is an ifland. In the afternoon of the 9th, being at Garden Ifland, I faw Saturday g. the Nootka turning in towards the port, and immediately fent the whale-boat and yaul to her affiftance. At feven o'clock (he anchored juft without the King George. Two canoes came along-fide in the morning of the loth with Sunday lo. only one fea-otter fkin. The Indians appeared rather (hy on feeing the Nootka, which I cm not account for in any other way than their having fired at fome of the natives juft before they left Sutherland's Cove, and, as I was given to underftand, wounded one of them. In the forenoon captain Meares came on board the King George, and re- quefted me to fend my carpenter on board his veifTel to ex- amine her mafts, pumps, and fides; which requeft I com- plied with, although he had much work to do on the fhip's account. Towards evening I went on fhore to vifit our different parties at work, and had an account from the H h carpenter 234 ^C H A p. X[. ■1787. June. Sunday to. AVOYAGETOTHi: carpenter of the fituation he found the Nootka in: her mafts and yards were in good order, but the fides in many parts were dangeroufly open, and her pumps in a very bad condition, not having a fpear, or lower box that would fit either pump, nor even a pump-break fit to work with. Monday II. The ncxt day captain Meares requefted me to let my car- penter work on^board the Nootka a few days, in order to put her in a condition fit for fea, which I readily complied with ; and thinking the leaks in her fides and the pumps the moft material objeds, I recommended him to have them put in order firft. The carpenter accordingly went on board, and prefently fent me word that they had no oakum ; on this I gave him directions to make ufe of our own, and by the time he had finifhed, he expended near two hundred weight. The pump geer that wanted armour- ers work was fent on board the King^ George, and I fet the armourer to work about it immediately. I alfo fent a party on fhore to cut wood for the Nootka, and the punt was employed in carrying it on board ; and whenever the weather permitted, the cooper was employed in making fpruce elience; for her ufe. In the forenoon the long-boat arrived from Gook*s River, and had met with tolerable fuccefs ; MefTrs. Hay- ward and Hill affuring me that much more bufinefs might be done in another trip. As foon as the boat was cleared, I ordered her to be fitted out with provifions, and an af- fortment of trade for a fecond expedition. Mr. Hayward informed me, that on their arrival in Cook's River, foon after getting above Point Bede, they fell in with a party of Kodiac Indians, who they fuppofed were hunting on account of the Ruffians ; but they faw none of the Ruffian 2; party,^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. *35 party, and the inhabitants of Cook's River behaved in a ^ ^J^ ^ p. very friendly manner. The long-boat, being provided with »■■■- ■ ~» provifions and articles for trade, failed again for Cook's jun/.' River early in the morning of the 1 2th, with pofitive or- Tuefday la. ders to return by the 20th July; and the fame crew that went in her the firft trip, were volunteers to go a fecond time. In the forenoon we faw feveral canoes, one of which went along-fide the Nootka, but the reft kept at a diftance, feeming afraid to come near. Our feamen and artificers were engaged in various em- ployments for the Nootka till the 1 5th, when a very ftrong Friday ij. gale earning on from the Eaftward with violent gufts of wind from the vallies, and conftant heavy rain, prevented any work from being carried on. During this interval not one canoe appeared in the Cove. The weather becoming moderate on the 1 6th, our people refumed their various Saturday i6. employments, and by the 17th had put the Nootka in a Sunday 17. condition fit for fea. Several canoes vifited us, bringing a few indifferent fkins, and fome fine halibut. For fome time paft the weather had in general been very wet, which affedted the health of the failors very much, and many of them were laid up with fevers and violent colds. The Nootka being ready for failing, I fent my whale-boat in the morning of the 19th to aflift them in getting under Tuefday 19. way, and at one o'clock ftie ftood out of the Cove. Our fpruce-beer was now in good order, and daily ferved out to the fhip's company; and I had the pleafure to find the fick people get confiderably better. The furrounding country now wore a different afped: from what it did on our firft arrival : the heavy rains had H h 2 melted 23^ A VOYAGE TO THE Friday 22. ^ *XL ^' niched moft of the fnow, and every thing feemed to pra- »— .- * mife the fpeedy approach of fummer. The furgeon, and June! thofe people who had lately been ill, took a walk on {horc Wedaef. »o. on the 20th, and gathered a good quantity of water- crefles, which they found growing near the frefli-water ri- vulets. We caught plenty of flounders along-fide with hook and line: thefe, with crabs, which were now very fine, proved an excellent change from fait provifions. Some of the people in fifhing along-fide for flounders caught feveral cod and halibut. On this I fent the canoe on the 2 2d out fome diftance into the bay to try for them, and they foon returned with a load of fine halibut and cod. This fuccefs induced me to fend her out frequently with a fifh- ing party, and they caught confiderably more than what was fuflicient for daily confumption ; fo that I ordered the remainder to be falted for fea ftore. In the afternoon a party of Indians vifited us, from whom I bought fome good fea-otter fkins. They pointed towards the South Weft, and gave me to underftand that we might procure plenty of good furs from that quarter. . This piece of in- formation determined me to fend the boats on another ex- pedition, and in the afternoon of the 24th I difpatched the whale-boat and yaul on a trip to the South Weft part of the Sound with provifions for a month, and a proper aflbrtment of trade. All the remaining part of the fliip's company that could be fpared had leave given to recreate themfelves on fliore. Some of them afcended the higheft hills in the neighbourhood, on the fides of which they found good quantities of fiiake-root, and a variety of flowers in full bloom. About eight o'clock in the evening I obferved two Indian boats and feveral canoes come into the bay: they all landed on a fandy beachj 5 which Sunday 24. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 237 which bore Weft South Weft from the fhip, and about ^ \^ ^' three miles and a half diftant. ^ — -> 1787. June. Next morning at five o'clock our new viiiters came Monday 25. along-fide in one of their large boats ; the party confifted of about twenty-five men, women, and children. Their chief appeared to be a well-difpofed man, rather low in ftature, with a long beard, and feemed about fixty years of age : he was entirely difabled on one fide, probably by a paralytic ftroke. The old man made me a prefent of a good fkin, but had little to fell except a few falmon, which we bought of him. I made the chief, whofe name I un- derftood was Taatucktellingnuke, a prefent, and one to each of thofe who feemed to be of confequence ; I alfb diftributed fbme trinkets among the women and children. Taatucktellingnuke gave me to underftand that the * country he came from was called Cheeneecock, and fitu- • ated in the South Weft part of the Sound. Our nev/ friends ftaid along-fide during the whole day, and went on fhore in the evening, perfedtly well fatisfied. I found the whole of this party very friendly and well difpofed ;• and indeed moft of thofe who had vifited us were fo ; particularly the natives belonging to Tacklaccimute, who i am inclined to think inhabit Comptroller's Bay, and the Shucklamute people, who take up their abode in the North, fide of Montague Ifland. I LEARNED fVom my late vifiters that the country where Sheenawaa and his tribe take up their refidence, is called Taaticklagmute j that they were the moft powerful tribe about ajfi 1787. June. Monday 25. AVOYAGETOTHE about the Sound, and hated by all their neighbours, with whom they were continually at variance. Old Shenawaa, fince his plundering our boats, had never appeared in the har- bour ; but fome of his people fometimes brought us a few fea-otter fkins, which they had obtained either by plun- der or barter ; for I underftood that his country does not produce any of the fea-otter ; but they have abundance of river-otter. Tacklaccimute, Shucklamute, and Wal- laamute, are the countries that afford the fea-otter. This laft-mentioned place, from every information I have been able to obtain, is fituated confiderably beyond Comptrol- ler's Bay to the Eaftward ; and we have feen none of the inhabitants ; but the Indians that have traded with us, fre- quently brought ikins which they faid came from that country ; and I always obferved that none of thofe fkins were marked, as is the ufual cuftom when they are in- tended for fale, but made up into cloaks, and worn by the people, to defend them from the inclemency of the weather. of at in ha an th h( re hi fJ Sheenawaa (whofe rapacious difpofition has already been noticed), whilft the Nootka wintered in Sutherland's Cove, fent frequent meffages, intimating that he intended to come and cut them off. Thefe mefiages, or rather, threats, were always delivered to an Indian girl that an officer belonging to the Nootka had purchafed on their firft arrival in the Sound. This girl made her efcape from the Nootka towards the latter part of the winter, and pro- bably gave the Indians an account of her weak and de- fencelefs fituation ; for there is hardly a doubt^ from the number of men that Sheenawaa had with him at the time of 01 O t • NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 239- of the affair with our boats, that he then meditated an ^ \,^ ^• attack on the Nootka ; but very bad weather coming on immediately afterwards, probably fruftrated his defign. XI. 1787. June. Monday 25 The party who were daily fent out to fifh for cod and halibut had their hooks and lines often broken by large ground-fharks ; feveral of thefe were killed, but they were of no ufe, their livers yielding fcarcely any oil. Taatucktellingnuke paid me a vidt on the 26th, Tuefday 26. and was particularly anxious to take one or two of our people with him on fhore to fpend the night, offering at the fame time to leave fome of his people on board as hollages till their return. I complied with this fingular requeft, and gave two of the people leave to accompany him on fhore; he left three of his tribe on board, being dfe- firous to convince me that he intended no harm. Early the next morning the friendly old chief came wednet 27, on board in one of his boats, and brought our people with him. After we had exchanged hoflages, I made the old man and his companions fome trifling prefents, and they went on fhore highly pleafed. I FOUND that thefe Indians lodged in temporary huts, compofed only of a few flicks and a little bark ; the prin- cipal part of their food was fifh ; by way of variety they ate the inner rind of the pine-bark dried ; but their greateft luxury was a kind of rock-weed covered with the fpawn of fome fifh or other, of which they gather and eat great quantities : they alfo eat the inner rind of the angelica' and liemloc roots, which, though poifon to us, by con- flant 040 A VOYAGE TO THE c ^xr^ ^' ^^"^ ^^^ habitual ufc become to them familiar and fcr- <■ '■ - ^ viceable. 1787. June. sat«rday3o. In hauHng thc fcinc on the 30th, wc caught a large quan- tity of herrings and fome falmon ; the herrings, though , fmall, were very good, and two hoglheads of them were faked for fea-ftore. July. Sunday i. Friday 6. Old Taatucktellingnuke took leave of me on the ift 'of July, and with his tribe left the harbour and paddled to- wards Montague Ifland. At noon on the 6th the whale-boat and yaul returned from their expedition without the leaft fuccefs, not having feen a lingle canoe during their trip. Their route was from our harbour towards Montague Ifland, and from thence over to the South Weft part of the Sound; having my diredtions, if they found it could be done without much rifle, to look into an opening that i» fuppofed to lead from the Sound into Cook's River, through the river Turnagain. On getting over on the South Weft ftiore, they met with great quantities of drift-ice, coming, as they fuppofed, out of that opening, and at the fame time heard a conftant jumbling noife refembling the breaking up of ice in a large river. Foggy weather now coming on, the officer who had charge of the boats did not think it prudent to venture in with them, but fpent the night near that fituation, and the morning being ftill foggy, he diredled his courfe to the North, and came back by Snug Corner Cove, without (as I have before obferved) meeting with any Indians whatever. Being NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «4« Being now convinced that little or nothing could be ^ 'Jj'^ ^' done by fending the boats on another expedition, and ex- — -— « pedting the long-boat's return in a few days, after which juiy.' I intended to get to fea as quick as poflible ; I fet all " *^ ^' hands to work in getting the (hip ready ; a large party were fent on fhore to cut wood, and others were em- ployed about the rigging. We daily caught large quantities of falmon, but the iinfettlcd ftate of the weather not permitting us to cure them on board, I fent the boatfwain with a party on fhore Saturday;. to build a kind of houfe to fmoke them in. On the 9th Monday g» the houfe was finiftied, and the boatfwain with his party were employed in fmoking falmon ; there was fufficient room to hang fix hundred fifti up conveniently; and feven fires being conftantly burning, they were cured very well. In the forenoon one canoe came along-fide with two very good frocks made of fea-otter fkins. The people gave me to underftand that they had been to Wallaamute, and purchafed the frocks at that place, which I had no reafon to doubt ; as I recolledled feeing them about the {hip near a month before this time, fince which they never made their appearance until now. The feine was frequently hauled on the nth, and not Wednef. n; lefs than 2600 falmon were caught at each haul ; the weather, however, preventing us from curing them fo well as could have been widied, we kept only a fufficient quantity for prefentufe, and let the reft efcape. The fal- mon were now in fi'.ch numbers along the ftiores, that any quantity whatever might be caught with the greateft eafe. I i During A.VOYAGETOTHE During the 12th and 13th the wind blew very ftrong and in violent gufts from the Eaftward, with conftant heavy rain, which prevented any work from going forv^ra. FrwlSfl^." Towards afternoon on the 14th, the weather growing mo- iiaturday 14. dcratc, the people refumed their different employments. Saturdays. In the moming of the 2ift I went in the whale-boat into a fmall bay about three miles from the fhip, on the South fide of the harbour, where fome days before I dif- covercd a quantity of fine watercrefles. The weather be- ing tolerably fine, I took the carpenter (who lately had been very ill) and a few others in the boat along with me, that they might have a walk, and receive fome refrefhment from the watercrefles. This little excurfion had a wonder- • fully good effedl on every one. We fat down on the grafs, and made a hearty dinner of fried pork and falmon, and, by way of fallad, had an abundance of watercrefles ; we , likewife gathered a fufficient quantity to ferve every perfon on board. Behind the beach where we landed is a frefli- water lake, that empties itfelf into the bay by a fmall river at the Northern part of the beach, in which there was abundance of falmon. ' Juft above the beach, between the bay and the lake, there was a piece of wild wheat, about two hundred yards long and five yards wide, growing at leaft two feet high, amotig which we found the water- crefles. This wheat with proper care might certainly be made an ufeful article of food. On the edge of the. lake I faw the track of an animal which greatly refembled that of the moofe-deer. We returned on board in the evening without feeing any Indians. 5 . At C H A XI. »4J p. I7 the ^S3 H A xir. 1787. Tueiday 31, 354 CHAP. XII. 1787. July. Tuefday 31. A VOYAGE TO THE the fea-otter and other amphibious animals are harpoons made with bone, with two or more barbs ; with a ftafF of about fix or eight feet long, on which is faftened a flcin or large bladder well blown, as a buoy; and darts of about three or four feet long, which they throw with a wooden inilrument of about a foot long, I OMITTED in its proper place to mention, that at the South part of the little bay where we found the water- creffes, we faw a tree with an infcription on it ; the cha^ rafters, fome were of opinion, were Greek; but for my own part I could not make out what moft of them were; they were badly cut. It appeared tc me as if the infcrip- tion had been made in the latter part of the laft year, and I am of opinion by a man who fome time after the Nootka's arrival left her; this man is a^ native of one of the iflands in the Mediterranean; and it (hould feem was drove from the Nootka. by bad ufage, and I believe is ftill among the Indians* In regard to the dialed of thefe people, it may be pro- per to introduce a few fpecimens, though it appeared to be fuch a confufed, unintelligible jargon, that it was not without fome difficulty that we could colled thefe in- jlances : Nootuch. Cocha Nus-cook'Weelick Nefqueluck Abagack a principal chiefs name ef Taek-Jacumute, a friendly tribe about Comptrollers Bay, the beft traders about the Sounds and bring mifi Jea-otter Jkins, a . chief of ditto. a ditto of Montague IJlandy called by th$ nativei Shuklake; a friendly tribe. This chief changed names with me, a ditto ditto ditto, a ditto ditto ditto, Sha-newten NORTH WEST COAST Cf AMFRICA. Sha-newten Waaliamure Ilhkaa Kaa-naa Taa-koo Ndltoolee Yaa-mack • Congaanack Onaakaa Pha-nee-cook Cau-nuck Muck Taa-tuck>tell-ingnuke She-ne-waa Gau-Iuck Naa-taakie Naa'go-wack-tooke Cus-kuck, orNus-kuck €bUf, to Jleep. a country to tbt E, N, E. ^ ?t^ Etchtt. to gtt up ttftnfinfini* to takt, to brings a tot or iron, headt, a marmot's fiin, /now. a tribe to tbt South Wtft ftrt of Prititt mitiam's Sound I »fritndlj tribt, firt. water, (biefof Cba-net-cock, a country to tbt South Wtfi of Prince fVilliam's Sound; a friendfy tribe i not manyjkins. chief of Taa lick- Jag-mutt, a cumtry to the Weft North IVeft from Port Etches; a very troublefome tribe % abundance of river-otter , hutfewJeehMirfkins, Jhere. fnow, according to Shee-na-tOM't trih. wood. •7f7. Jalf. TutMajr |i. Coo-lin Naa-nuck Auckluck Maajack Ingite Caaprckaa TaaKcnooke Seeme Chilha TJgaanuck Yaagala Naatunafuck Naatunamoughtaa Luckldck Yauna Yautka Chctlcugh Peeduck Peeduck Naatunafuck Lawle ten, twenty, wind. fun. ground onjbfre. river otter, let me look at it, rain. a child. a woman. good, or bandfome, Jea-etter, youngfea-otter, a bear. yonder. gone awief, no no. all gone, I haw no more. I have no more fea-otter fkins, friendjhip. At the fame time they extend their arms, and repeat the word Lawle frequently, and to ftgnify that you are a friifpd, you muft do tb* fame. After 256 CHAP. XII. July. Tu«(«i«y 31. Aiiguft. Fjiday j. A VOYAGE TO THK After getting well clear of the paflagc into Prince William's Sound, we fteered Eaft Soutli Eaft, with a light breeze from the Wcftward and pleafant weather; but the wind afterwards hauling to the Southward, we fteered to the Eaft by North. .... hi.-. The 3d Auguft being remarkably fine, the failors haiii^ mocks were got upon deck ; the fhip was fcraped fore and aft, and fprinklcd with vinegar, and well aired with fires. The mean refult of fcveral obfcrved diftanccs of the Saturday 4. ^uw and moon taken on the 4th gave 138° 20' longitude; The latitude at that time was 57° 12' North. At three o'clock we faw the land, bearing North by Weft, and more than twenty leagues diftant, which we took for Mount Fairweather. 'I'he wind now fliiftcd to the Eaft- ward, and continued fome time from that quarter, which prevented us from making any great progrefs towards Cape Edgecombe. However, as we could fetch fomething to the Eaftward and Southward of Mount Fairweather, I de- termined to try for a port near the lituation in which cap- tain Cook places Crofs Sound, although we were not for- tunate enough to fall in with that place laft feafon. At Sunday;. fo"ur wo'clock in the afternoon of the 5th Mount Fair- weather bore North 10° Weft, near twenty leagues diftant. This mountain, or rather ridge of mountains, as it forms into feveral, is by far the higheft land on this part of the coait; much loftier than Mount Edgecombe; and I think nearly the height of Mount St. Elias. At fix o'clock the appearance of an opening prefented itfelf, bearing North 10° Eaft; and ha^ngthen a light breeze from Nortli Weft Monday 6. by Weft, wc ftood In for it. Next morning at four o'clock NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. o'clock Mount Fairwcathcr bore North Weft bv Weft, twelve leagues diftant. What was taken for a wide open- ing in the land on the preceding evening now appeared to be joined by low land, as we could from the maft- head fee the low land extending from fide to fide, and no good appearance of an harbour. Indeed, our diftancc from the land was fo great, that we could not determine this point with certainty j but as the wind was now rather fcant for proceeding in towards the place where we had fuppofed the opening to be, and a fine wind for run- ning towards Cape Edgecombe, I deiiftcd from ftand- ing any further in the North North Eaft diredlion, and edged away to the Eaft North Eaft, with an in- tention of getting pretty well in fhore, in order to look for a harbour, as we ftood towards the Cape. At ten o'clock we law an opening in the land bearing North Eaft, which promifed well for a good harbour. On running in for it, another good appearance of an harbour prcfented itfelf, bearing North by Eaft, and fecms to be fttuated about eight leagues to the South Eaft of Crofs Cape. M ^S7 ir A \'. XII. 1787. AugulK onaitj 0. All the land next the fea, beginning about eight leagues to the South Eaft of Crofs Cape, and trending to within ten leagues of Cape Edgecombe, feems to be compofed of low woody iflands, among which there appear feveral places of good flielter. The inland country forms into a number of peaked hills, fome well wooded, and othcFs quite bare. On drawing near the opening, and about two miles from the fhore to the North Weft of it, we had twenty and twenty-five fathoms water over a muddy bot- tom, and juft in the entrance were fome high barren rocks. A large Indian boat came out, probably to view the ftiip : there were twelve people in her, and only three LI of 35^ A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. Aogutl. Monday 6. c "xu ** ^^ them men, the reft vyomen and children. On getting into the e^ trance cf the paflage, which is about a mile acrofs, we deepened the water to thirty fathoms over a fandy bottom, the barren rocks juft mentioned forming the South fide; the Northern fide is low land, forming itfelf into feveral fmall bays, from whofe points are breakers at no great diftance. About half a mile within the barren rocks we had thirty fathoms water over a rocky bottom, which depth and bottom we carried at leaft a mile farther, fteering North Eaft by Eaft, which is nearly the courfe into the harbour. The paflhge fo far is nearly a mile acrofs, with bold rocky fliores on each fide. Prefently after- wards we fhoaled the water to ten lathoms, being then in the narroweft part of the channel, which in that fituation is not more than half a mile acrofs, formed on the Northern fide by fome bold rocks, and to the Southward by a bluff point of land ; to the Eaftward of which, a fmall dif- tance from the fliore, are fome rocks that juft fiiew them- felves above water. Immediately on paffing thefe rocks we deepened the water very quick, having from thirty to forty fathoms; and a moft fpacious and excellent harbour opened itfelf to our view, trending to the North Weft and South Eaft, and running deep into the Northward, v/ith a number of fmall iflands fcattered about. We run up to- wards the North Weft part of the harbour, and after pafling a fmall ifland near the North fhore covered with trees, we anchored about noon with the fmnll bower in thirty-on^ fathoms water over a muddy bottom, and moored with the beft bower to the Eaftward, entirely land-locked; the rocks lying in the inner part of the paflage, juft ftiut in with the fmall ifland already men- tioned, and bearing South three or four miles diftant. Soon S k IV TC II 1^^ k, l('j.->,{. ^/.: I'liUyiU- Jam /J.iysfi Oj /.Stcckiia^i .1" O OoulJin^. POMTlOrk'X K" f^'/M'l/J/XfJS HARBOi'R'S — J ) ) rj/ //. V C ^ '■ - NOIi'rii WEST C^OAST oyAMK •r Vt -ft V;.. \ 2V i- 30 Oy / .Sti7i'kda^t! fi' O (jou/tJinJ. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Soon after we were moored, the Indian boat, which ^ had followed us in, came along-lide, and the people gave »- us a fong in the ufual Indian manner. I found their lan- guage totally different from that fpoken by the natives in Prince William's Sound; but they extended their arms as a token of peace, nearly the fame as thofe people. Their boat was the body of a large pine tree, neatly excavated, and tapered away towards the ends, until they came to a point, and the fore-part fomewhat higher than the after- part; indeed, the whole was finifhed in a neat and very exad manner. I made my new viiiters a few trifling pre- fents, and inquired for the fea-otter fkin, by the name it bears at Prince William's Sound; but they not underftand- ing me, I fliewed them a fea-otter fkin, and made figns for them to bring me fome, which they feemed inclined to do. They were ornamented with beads of various forts, and had fome other articles, which induced me to think that the Queen Charlotte had touched near this neighbourhood on her way to King George's Sound, par- ticularly a tin kettle and fome towes, exadly the fame fort as ours. They made me underfland by figns, that the veffel from which they procured thofe articles had been in a port to the Eaftward of Cape Edgecombe, and defcribed her as having two mafts. This little information led me to think that poflibly the Queen Charlotte might {lill be fome- where about the Cape; and as I before had formed an in- tention of fending the long-boat on a trading expedition, I determined to fit her out with all poffible difpatch, and accordingly I ordered a proper aflbrtmcnt of trade to be got ready, and fix weeks provifions of all kinds that the Slip afforded. The Indians, after receiving a few pre- L 1 2 fents, H A XII. 259 p. 1787. Aaguft. Monday 6. 26o A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. Auguft. Monday 6 c "xn ^ fents, left the fhip and went on £hore, where they re- mained a fliort time, and then returned with a few good dry fea-otter Ikins. I took notice that thefe Indians were not (o particular in drefling or ftretching their flcins as the inhabitants of Prince William's Sound and Cook's River; neither were any of them marked with paint, as if in- tended for a market, which is the general praAice in the Sound and River. I fhewcd a man in the boat, who ap- peared to be the chief, a marked fkin, and he imme- diately knew (probably by the mark) what country it came from, and defcribed the inhabitants as having their under lips (lit, and wearing ornaments in them. He alfo defcribed their canoes, with their method of paddling; and on being fhewn a model of the Prince William's Sound canoes, he gave me to underftand that it was the fame fort with thofe he had been defcribing. I learned that they had an intercourfe with the natives of Prince William's Sound ; in the courfe of which, quarrels often arofe, and battles frequently enfued ; and one of the men ihewed. me a deep wound near his lip, which he received in ail engagement with them. That thefe people have communication with each other, is pretty certain ; and I am apt to think that this part of the coaft, and farther on to the North Weft, is the country which the inhabit- ants of the Sound call Wallamute; as I faw two dag- gers in the pofleflion of two men belonging to old Sheena- waa's tribe, which were made exadly in the fame manner as thofe worn by the natives at this place, and they gave me to underftand that they had bought them at Walla- mute. The daggers which the people hereabouts ufe in battle are made to ftab with either end, having three, four, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 261 • four, or five inches above the hand tapered to a fharp ^ ^^^ ^ point; but the upper part of thofe ufed i">. the Sound and « -^ River is excurvated. Augifit. Mod day 6, Towards evening our vifiters prepared to go on fhore; but, by way of fecuring my friendiliip, were defirous to leave one of their party on board for the night, and take one of our people with them on fhore. As they feemcd to betray neither a mifchievous nor thieving difpofition, I had no objection to the propofal, particularly as I thought the perfon who went might have an opportunity of ob- ferving what number of fea-otter fkins they pofleffcd, and might alfo form fome idea of their manner of living. Ac- , cordingly, 1 permitted one of my people to go on fhore, and that I might be under no apprehenfion about his fafety, two of the Indians (inftead of one, as was firfl: pro- ' pofed) remained on board, and behaved remarkably well : they were both young, very well made, good-looking men, and appeared to be brothers. The other man, who appeared to be the chief of this fmall tribe, went away with my man and the refl of his tribe at feven o'clock. I obferved they went to the Northward, and turned round a point of land, beyond which moft probably their ha- bitation was fituated. About eight o'clock next morning, the Indians returned Tuefjay r- with our man, but they brought very little trade. The perfon who went on fhore with the Indians informed me, that their refidence was at the foot of a hill near a run of frefli water, which iffued out of an adjacent valley. Their houfe(for they had only one) appeared to be only a temporary habitation, and he could obf^rve very few articles of trade among 1787. Auguft. Tuefdty 7. a6a AVOYAGETOTHE c H^A P. among them. The way to this Indian hut was to the North Eaft through a little found, full of fmall iilands covered with wood* At daylight the long-boat was hoifted out, and fome hands were employed in fitting her for an expedition to the Eaft ward. The feine was hauled in feveral parts of the harbour ; but we did not meet with any fuccefs. The long-boat being properly equipped, at five o'clock fhe fet out on a trading expedition towards Cape Edge- combe, and among the iflands to the South Eaft of that Cape, with the fame officers and men that went in her to Cook's River. I gave them particular orders to return in feventeen days ; and in cafe they fell in with the Queen Charlotte, to deiire captain Dixon to fail with them to- wards our prefent harbour, and remain in the ofHng until I fhould join him ; as I propofed leaving the coaft towards the latter end of the month, and proceeding for China, unlefs our fuccefs in trade warranted my ftaying on tlie^ coaft to a later period. The adjacent country abounding with white cedar, I fent the carpenter on Ihore with a party on the 8th, to cut fome for fawing into (heathing-boards : the remainder of the fhip's company were bulled in various neceflary employments. In the courfe of the day we had a fmall canoe aiong-fide, with one man and a woman; but they brought nothing to difpofe of; and probably were out on a hunting party, as they had all the implements for that purpofe : however, after ftaying a fhort time with us, they returned towards the Eaftern point of the Sound, • from Wedncf. 8. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. from whence they came, in order to give their tribe intel- ^ ligence of our being in the harbour. Towards evening ^ our firft vifiters came along-fide, and the two young men again requeftcd to lleep on board, which I permitted, and Jofeph Woodcock, one of my apprentices, flept on (hore with their party. When the Indians left us, they did not go to their habitations round the North point, as on the preceding evening, but took up their abode in a fmall bay near the fliip, where they ereded a miferable hut, infuf- ficient to keep out either wet or cold. Not having any fuccefs in hauling the feine near the fhip, I fent the whale-boat with the feine round a point to the North Eaft ; round that point they proceeded up an arm of the Sound, which took a diredion about North and North by Eaft, for four or five miles : this arm has two or three fmall woody iflands lying at the entrance, and is navigable for a fhip of any fize, almoft the whole way up J at the head of it they found a fmall frefti-water rivulet, where they caught a few good falmon and a great number of very indifferent ones, moft of which were fuf- fered to efcape. The indifferent (idmon appear to be a different kind from the others, and I am inclined to think were out of feafon. They had a moft difagreeable colour, to appearance as if in a ftate of putrefaction ; and the upper jaw had a number of large teeth projedling almoft right out of it. Since our arrival I had frequently feen in the frefh- water creeks (in which places thefe kind of falmon get a confiderable height) many of them dying, and great num- bers on the banks quite dead ; indeed there is reafon to fuppofe that few of them furvive the approach of winter, but the other fort keep in deep water, and about the mouths 263 HAP. XII. 1787. Augull. Wcdncf. 8. M a 64 c H A p. XII. AUfiuft. W«uucl. U. A VOYAGE TO THE mouths of the creeks. Thofe caught by our people were fine large fifh, of a very good colour, and without the teeth, or rather tufks, in the upper jaw, which lo p.uti- cularly diftinguifh the inferior fort. The fmall canoe which vifited us in the morning from the Eaftward returned again at eight o'clock, in company with two large boats, containing about twenty-five men, women, and children. I'hey entertained us near an hour with finging, and afterwards took their leave and went on fhore to the little bay juft mentioned, where fome of them ereded temporary huts to lodge in, but others con- tented themfelves with fuch kind of fhelttr as fome rocks which hung over the beach afforded. On leaving the fhip they gave me to underftand that they had fome excellent fkins to difpofe of, and would bring them in the morning: accordingly, foon after daylight the Indians again came along-fide, bringing five very good fea-otter fkins (which were all they had of the kind) and a number of beautiful black fkins, fuch as I had never feen before j but am apt to think they were a fpecies of feal. This tribe (as well as our former vifiters) traded very fairly ; and as they did not feem to be of a thieving difpo- fition, I admitted a number of them on board. When dinner was brought into the cabin, my guefls required very little invitation to partake, but began to eat very heartily ; and fo well did they relifh our vidluals, that the table was prefcntly cleared, and there was occafion for another courfe, which was brought in, and they fell to with as keen an appetite as at firfl, till at length, being fairly fatiated, they gave over, though with fome reluc- lo tance. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 265 tance. After looking at various parts of the ftiip, and re- ^ ^jj^ **• ceiving fomc little prefents, they returned to the fhore < -» well fatisfied with their entertainment. ALak. In the forenoon we got feveral fine logs of cedar on board, and two of the people were fct to work in fawing them into ftieathing-boards. The cooper was fent on fhore to brew fpruce-beer and eflence of fpruce for fea- ftore ; there being an abundant quantity of excellent pine for that purpofe not far from the (hip : others of the fhip*s company were employed in wooding and watering, and I fent two of the boys with the canoe into the pafTage to try for fifli ; but they returned without meeting with any fuccefs. About one o'clock an Indian boat came into the Sound with two men, a boy about twelve years old, and a young child in her ; one of the men was a remarkably fine looking fellow, and appeared to be a perfon of great confequence. This fmall party came from the North Weftward, and I am inclined to think their ufual place of refidence is near the foot where I have before mentioned there is a probability of nnding a good harbour between this Sound and Crofs Cape : they came through a paflage that leads into another Sound to the North Weft of that we lay in, and which paflage makes the land to the Weftward of us an iftand. I BOUGHT from our new vifiters a few very good fea- otter (kins, and a number of wild geefe. The method they make ufe of in catching thofe birds is to chafe and knock them down immediately after they have fhed their M m large a66 CHAP. XII. 178;. AuBull, Tburlday 9. A VOYAGE TO THE large wing- feathers ; at which time they arc not able to fly. These Indians had a number of beads about them of quite a different fort to any I ever faw ; they had alfb a carpenter's adze made in a different manner to ours, with the letter B and three fleurs-de-lis on it. The chief in- formed me that he received thefe articles from two vefTels which had been with them to the Nortli Weft, and de- fcribcd them as having three mafts : he gave me to un- derftand that they had a drum on board, and a number of great guns. Thefe circumftances inclined me to think that the vefTels defcribed by this chief were the French men of war that were fitting out for difcovery at the time we left England. Besides thefe fhips juft mentioned, I was informed by forae of the Indians, that another veffel had vifited the coaft a little way to the North Weft of our fituation, and from their defcription, I fhould rather fuppofe her to have been the Queen Charlotte than any other vefTel ; as they defcribed her having only two mafts, and her boat like our whale-boat. They alfo made me underftand very clearly, that an unfortunate accident happened to one of her boats, which was iifhing at an anchor in the mouth of the port where fhe lay : whilft fifliing, the wind came in frefh from the fea, which caufed a good deal of fea to fet in, and when endeavouring to weigh their anchor, the cable flipped on the broad-fide of the boat, which overfet her ; and before any afUftance could be given them from the fhip five men were drowned. The boat to which this misfortune happened they gave me to underftand was exadly NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 267 exadly the model of our whale-boat ; and I was afraid ^ " j,^ ''• that an accident of the kind might poflibly have happened ^ ^ ■ ^ - -^ to the Queen Charlotte's boat. Augui. ^ Thur(3ty9. After this fmall party had finiflied trading, the chief requefled leave to ftay all night on board with the elder boy, which I granted, and fent Jofeph Woodcock on (horc with the other man and child. The chief from tlic North Weft, with his little party, took leave of me the next morning, and proceeded to- Fnd-yio. wards home ; telling me at the (iime time that he would return in ten days with more fea-otter ikins. M in 2 268 A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. XIII. CHAP XIII A new Party of Traders from the Eaft. — Under a Ne- cejftty of exchanging Hojiages. — Part of the Ship's Com- pany go on Shore. — Meet 'with Indian Tea.'—'Vifn the Natives at their awn Refidence. — Their Habitations and Manner of Living defcribad. — An Account of the Spa- niards having been on the CoaJ}^ and left the Small-pox. — The Long-boat returns from an Expedition to theEafl- loard. — Examine the Sound. — Another Vifit from our North Wefl Friends. — Ceremonies to be obferved before commenci7ig Trade. — fojeph Woodcock fent as an Hojlage — Three Days in the Country, — An Account of the Na- tives — Their thieving Difpofition — Najiinefs, Ornaments, Drcfs, and Language. — Obfervations on the Advan- tages likely to accrue from a Settlement on the Coaft. — Some Thoughts of an Expedition by Land, — Leave Port- lock's Harbour. . TN the morning of the nth two large boats came ii , *- the Sound from the Eaftward. This tribe were ent mto entire Aug"'i- itr^'ingers to us, and confided of twenty-five men, women, satu-iay ii. and children, from whom I bought a few very good fea- otter {kins, a cloak made of the fmall black /Icins I have before taken notice of, and feveral fkins of the fame fort. This new party of traders did not aflbciatc with the other Indians j but after their bufinefs was over, and their cu- riofity gratified by looking at the (hip, they went on 10 fhorc NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 269 CHAP. XIII. 1787. Aucull. fhore in a bay not far from the (Kip, where the cooper was employed in brewing fpruce-beer, and took up their lodging in a good convenient houfe, which he and his af- aucoh. fiftants had built to Ihelter themfelves from the rain, and ^'"" '^ " which was well covered with cedar bark. The feine was hauled in the afternoon, and we caught a good Ripply of excellent falmon. Some of our old acquaintance came on board in the evening to fleep with us, and I fent a perfon on fliore by way of hoftage as ufual. Indeed I found it abfolutely neceflary to conform to their cuftom in this particular; for more than once, when I had refufed to exchange hoftages with them, in confequence of the appearance of bad weather, they were immediately alarmed, and would not come near the (hip on any account whatever ; but oft my permitting a perfon to go along with them on fliore, they would receive him on entering their boat with a ge- neral fliout of exultation, and feemed perfeAly convinced that no harm was intended them. On thefe occafions, inftead of one Indian ftaying on board in exchange for the perfon I fent (Mi fliore, more than half a dozen would offer themfelves as volunteers, and I fomctimes permitted three or four of them to fleep with us. The two young men who firft viflted us were generally of the party ; and indeed one of them was almoft conflantly on board.- On the 12th I gave part of the fliip's company leave Sunday n. to recreate themfelves on fliore; as a walk I knew would be highly ferviceable to them ; and the adjacent country was pleafant and agreeable, and afforded great quantities of blackberries and wild rafpberrics, quite ripe, and ex- ceedingly ffSf :.%Z^ A yp^ ACE TQ TffjE V-i Avgufti ffnity 12. ■9 /5,jf #• . ceedingly good . Th(\& P^tyf *** i^ f a94 our newly-difcovcred t€£l w4s a moft excellent fubftitute. It grows on .^ low ^imll j^rub, not more than twelve inches from the ground ; the leaf .about half an inch Ipng) and tapers graidu^Hy to a point; the undef^^rt coy^^d Fijth a light downy fubft^ce. In the forenoon I, went in the whale-boat, accompanied by Mr. Wilbye and one qf the young Indians, to vifit their reiidence ; he undertaking to dired the way. We towed to the North Wj^ft for about two miles, and then ^ame to what had thjs gpjpc^ance of a point of land from the ihip, but we Tound it |:b be an ifland, fituated at the jpntrance of an arm of the Sound, which trends away •between North and Nwth Eaft. The Indian informed me that their place of abode was lip that arm, therefore we proceeded on, and found it to run in a zigzag direction between North and North Eaft, about five miles to the head of it from the ifjand in the entrance, and near feven ^iles frc^ the fhip. This arm appears to be navigable for at l^eaft four miles up, for vefTels of any fize, and there are a number pf final) inlands covered with trees fcattered in various parts of it. We arrived at the Indian's habita^ tion about Booni anil fi^iind one fmall temporary houfe, and the ruins of two o^ers which had been much larger, and appeared tp h^ve been made ufe of as winter habita-r tipns i the uprights or fupporters were ftiU remaining, and fome boards that were intended for a floor. On the beach was -3F> NORTH WEST COASY OF AMERICA. was a large boat, and three of a fmaller (ize ; the large boat capable of holding thirty perfons, and the others about ten people each. From this circumftance I ex- peded to have feen a numerous tribe, and was quite fur- prifed when I found that it confifted only of three men, three wonjen, the fame number of girls, two boys about twelve years old, and two infants. One of the women was very old, I fhould think not lefs than eighty. I ob- ferved the oldeft of the men to be very much marked with the fmall-pox, as was a girl who apjieared to be about fourteen years old. The old man endeavoured to defcribe the excefUve torments he endured whilft he was afflided with the diforder that had marked his face, and gave me to underftand that it happened fome years ago. This convinced me that they had had the fmall-pox among them at fome diftant period. He told me that the dif- temper carried off great numbers of the inhabitants, and that he himfelf had loft ten children by it' ; he had ten ftrokes tatooed on one of his arms, which I underftood were marks for the number of children he had loft. I did not obferve any of the children under ten or twelve years of age that were marked ; therefore I have greaf reafon to fuppofe that the diforder raged a little more than that number of years ago ; and as the Spaniards were on this part of the coaft in 1775, it is very probable that from them thefe poor wretches caught this fatal infedlion. They, it ftiould fccm, are a nation defigned by Providence to be a fcourge to every tribe of Indians they come near, by one means or other." 271 CHAP. XIII. Augult. Sunday 12. The Spaniards were among them in the height of funjmer, and pr'^bably they caught the infection about the 8 month 27* A VOYAGE TO THE xin. ^' month of Auguft. To fee their manner of living at that 1787. Auguft. Sunday 12. feafon of the year, one would think it a miracle that any of them cfcaped with their lives. I found men, women, and children, all huddled together in a clofe houfe near a large fire, and entirely furrounded with ftinking fifli. !Rjound the houfe for at lead one hundred yards, and all along the banks of a little creek that ran down by this miferable dwelling, were ftrewed ftinking fifh; and in feveral places were beds of maggots a foot deep, and ten or twelve feet in circumference: nay, the place had really fuch a dreadfully ofFenfive fmell, that the young Indian himfelf, though habituated to fuch wretched fcenes from his earlieft infancy, having remained on board with us a few days, could not bear it, but intreated me very earneftly to leave the place, which I did, and returned to the boat, accompanied by him and the reft of our party. Poillbly the fmall-pox only raged during the warm wea- ther, and the infedion was deftroyed by the fetting in of a fevere winter; but the fufferings of the poor Indians, when the diforder was at its height, muft have been in- conceivable, and no doubt the country was nearly depo> pulated; for to this day it remains very thinly inha- bited. A NUMBER of the Indians who vifited us from the Eaft- ward were marked with the fmall-pox, and one man who had loft an eye gave me to underftand that he loft it by that diforder ; but none of the natives from the Weftward had the leaft traces of it. I cannot account for this cir- cumftance any other way than by fuppofing that the veflel from which thefe unfortunate people caught the infedion, was in a harbour fomewhere about Cape Edgecombe ; and perhaps NORTH WEST COAST OF AMEHICA. *7^ CHAP. XIII. perhaps none of the natives further to the Weftward than this Sound had an opportunity of having any intercourfe with her, and by that means happily cfcaped the diforder. After I left this miferable habitation, the feine was hauled, ^*^'^'*' and we caught a good fupply of fine falmon. In the evening, our late vifiter from the Northward returned and flept on board, together with the reft of his party, and we hauled his boat up ak>ng-fide. He informed me viiat the weather was fo bad that he could not poflibly get ^ home; however, he fet off again at day-light the next morning to make another trial. In the forenoon part of Monday ij. the {hip*s company had leave given them to go on fhore, and though rainy weather came on, yet they were fo intent on picking Indian tea, and berries of various kinds, that few of them returned on board before the approach of evening. In the courfe of the day, our neighbours in the Sound brought us a few fca-otter fkins, and fome others of various kinds; and a few of the natives that had been out on a hiHiting party returned with three very fine fea- otter (kins juft taken from the animal. On the 14th part of the fliip's company were em- Tuefdayii. ployed in wooding and watering, others hauled the feine, and caught a fupply of good falmon, and the fawyers were bufied in fawing cedar into fheathing-boards. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 15th the long- wednef. ,5. boat returned from her expedition to the Eaftward; Ihe had been juft to the Eaftward of Cape Edgecombe, where they met with fome inhabitants, and purchafed about twenty pretty good fea-otter (kins. Between the harbour we by in and the Cape, they fell in with a ftrait about a N n league n^ AtMAl'V O 5J A OE TO THE .:i t»l' 9 i^ A P'. Ijq^gv^ wji4p ^ .the entrance, and running in about Eart> V- ' -"-—^ oif Haft Sout^i Eaft, with bold Ihores and good anchorage. AiJguft. Soon after getting in (the Southern and Eaftern point of Wcdoef. IS. ^^^ ftrait 41)57'* 30' latitude, aod the Northern and Weftern point, in 57* 36' latitude), they ftood up between South and South hy Eaft, near four leagues, the ftrait for that dif- tance appearing near three leagues acrofs, with feveral {inall iflands fcattered about it. From the Southern point there were {evcral appearances of fine openings branching, out in various diredions ; however, they did not examine any of, them, but k.ept alor^ under the Southern fhore, as- the moft likely place for leading out near Cape Edge- combe. After getting up this pallage about four leagues, they found it not more than half a league acrofs, with good anchorage all the way up ;. and after carrying that width two leagues higher, it became very narrow and £hoa1, one part in particular fo (hoal, that it became dry at low-water for near two miles. In this narrow part they ftruck a rock, wliich fhivered one of the planks in the loof of the bow, and caufed the boat to make a good deal of water. This accident might have been attended with ferious confequences ; however, they hauled the boat on {hore, and nailed a piece of fheet-lead over the damaged part, which effcdlually ftopped the leak. After pafling, the narrow part, which they did by taking a proper time, of tide, they found the paflfage to grow wider (ftill trend- ing away to the North Eaft) ; the depth of water increafed gradually, and nearly as fait as fea-water. This circum-^^ ftanee gave them great hopes that the pafiage they were in I^ad a c9|iununication with the fea to the South Eaft, and conf^quently that they ftiould get to the South Eaftward of the CJapCi py a yery fafc and eafy navigation. In this, "" ' ' 8 , opinion 3UJj*j:n i. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMIlRICA, opinion they were foon confirmed by coming into a large ^ 'jjjj Sound, where they faw a great number of whales. They alfo had a iight of Mount Edgecombe, and fome iflands lying to the South Eaft of Cape Edgecombe. In the courfe of their cruifc thus far they had landed feveral times in a fine level pleafant country, where they could perceive the traces of inhibitants having been there re- cently, but what is rather extraordinary, they faw neither huts nor Indians. 275 A r. ■ 1787. Augull. Vcdnef. 15. On getting round the North point of this paflage, through which they had come thus far, they faw an opening that appeared to run about a league up in a North direc- tion, and then branched out various ways. In the en- trance of the main opening were feveral fmall iflands (I think it very probable that the North Wefl arm of this opening runs into the firfl large found that we entered). They l^ill faw no inhabitants, therefore continued to fleer on to the South Eafl for a paflage about a mile and a half acrofs, made by the Northern part of an ifland juft: under Mount Edgecombe (which was diflinguidicd by tile name of Pitt's Ifland), and the oppofite point of land which we fuppofc to be the main. Through this paflage thf^y had a view of the fca, and the iflands lying to the South Eafl of Cape Edgecombe. After getting through the paflTage, they fleered among a clufler of iflands lying near the fhore to the North- ward of Cape Edgecombe, and anchored to the North- ward of the largefl. This ifland bore North from the Cape about three leagues diflant, and feverJll other iflands^ lay to the South Eafl of this clufter, fix leagues diflant. ; N n 2 They ay6 H A XIII. 1787. Auguft. Wednef. 15. A VOYAGE TO THE They remained here Tome time without feeing any inhabit- ants; and as the wind had fet in from the South Eafl, which prevented them from proceeding any further in that direction, they were preparing to return back again, when a canoe made its appearance with fix people in her, from whom they procured fome fea-otter (kins, and foon after- wards they were vifited by a few other canoes; but the people were not by any means fo numerous as might na- turally have been cxpeded in fo fine a fituation. Their vifiters gave them to underfland, that a veflel with two mails had lately anchored near the place where the boat then lay ; and from the articles of trade which the natives pofleffed, I had fcarcely a doubt but this veflel was the Queen Charlotte. The different articles our people faw were hawks bells, tin kettles, buckles, and rings, all of them the fame pattern with our own ; they had alfo a Sandwich Ifland calabafh, and a number of towes. ^ The boat lay in this fituation two days, during which time the people were on fhore, but they did not fee any appear- ance of wood having been recently cut down, or any other fign of a fhip's crew having lately been on (hore; fo that I fiiould fuppofe if the Queen Charlotte had anchored near this fituation, it was in her paflage to King George's Sound ; and having wooded and watered before (he left Prince William's Sound, they would have no occafion to carry on any operations of that fort at this place. Meflrs. Hill and Hay ward obferved many of thofe people to be marked with the fmall-pox, and made the fame obfervations there re- fpedling that diforder that I had done in this harbour, which was, that none under ten or twelve years of age bore any marks of the diforder. A SHORT NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «77 I7«7. Augiift, Wednff. IS- A SHORT time before they intended failing to return to ^ y„j^ ^• the (hip, and while the people were bufy in putting the boat to rights on deck, the Indians went in two boats, and took an opportunity of cutting their cable. The anchor lay in twenty-eight fathoms water without a buoy, fo that there was no chance of recovering it. After doing this piece of mifchief, the Indians made for the fhore with all the hafte imaginable, and landed at a little dif- tance from tlie long-boat. Our people purfued them, and being a good deal exafperated at their daring and infolent behaviour, they landed with the boat, and entirely de- ftroyed both the Indian boats. The natives fled with pre- cipitation into the woods, which put a flop to our people's purfuit; and I believe they did them no further injury. I was forry that the boat's crew fliould have been under the neceflity of taking this ftep ; but undoubtedly this crime committed by the Indians was of fo very mifchievous a nature, that it became neceflary to punifli them in fome meafure for it; and it is very probable that deftroying their boats (which it muft coft them much time and trouble to rebuild) would make a greater imprefllon than even taking away numbers of their lives. After filling their water, and getting a little wood on board, the long-boat returned to the fhip »by the fame paflage that they went through, and during the whole paflage did not fee a Angle canoe. The night before they got on board, James Blake, one of the boat's crew, fell overboard : the boat was going very fafl: through the water when this accident happened, and had got a coniiderable way to leeward before they brought her to. Blake could fwim but very indifferently, but fortunately was faved by John M'Coy (another of the 7 boat's 278 CHAP. XIII. 1787. Auguft. Wfdnef. I J. A VOYAGE TO THE boat's crew) fwiniming to him with an oar, which fup- ported him until he was pulled into the boat, and it was near an hour before they got him on board, owing to a frcfh breeze, and his being dircdly to windward. Thurrdayi6. On the 1 6th the (Kip's company were employed in wooding and watering, and getting the fliip ready for fea. In the forenoon two Indian boats came along-fide, from whom I bought a few tolerably good fea-otter fkins. In the afternoon we completed our water, and the long-boat's crew had leave given them to go on fliore. Friday 17. The wcathcr during the whole of the 17th was fqually and unfettled, the wind blowing very freOi from the Eaft- ward, which prevented any buiinefs from going forward. In the courfe of the day we were vilitcd by one canoe, which brought a few indifferent fea-otter fkins. 8atardayi8. At eight o'cloclc in the morning of the i8th I went in the whale-boat to the South point of the entrance into the Sound to fee how the wind prevailed out at fca. I landed on a part of the point that was flieltered from the furf by fome rocks, from which lituation I liad a good view of the fea and the fliores to the North Weft and South Eaft of this entrance. I found the wind in the entrance and at fea to be about South Weft by South, blowing ftrong and in fqualls, which fent in on the rocks and fhores a tremendous furf. After taking fome bearings from this point, I embarked with an intention of examining the Eaftern part of the Sound. About noon we rowed under the lee of a fmall iiland, and took fhelter undpr fome trees that hung over the water, where we refrcjfhed ourfelves with NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. with fomc fmokcd falmon. From this we proceeded on to the Eaftward, under the Southern ftiore of the »'"k)und, and after rowing about two leagues, c ime to a lother palfage leading out to fca in the dircdlion of South Weft. This pafTagc is about three quarters of a mile acrofs, with bold rocky ftiorcs, againft which the furf broke with great fury; and the wind being direftly in, a heavy fca fet up the paflage. I found in the mid channel between twenty and thirty fiithotas watci* over a bottom of hard fand, and the pafiagc fruni llic inner to the outer points appeared 'o be .^bc'.v; (avo rnikt long. The wind blowing frtfh, and thcic bc'oj^r i' vejy heavy fea, I was prevented from going throu':'h li as 1 at firft ii^fcnded, and got only two thirds of ihr. way: ivom 'v/hicit {^tuAtion I could fee the fea break on foriic -ocks thaf. ^\.m out a iiule way from the outer pviarj; but bco.veii tiiem th.: ,;.?.f!age appeared good and clear, This p;sfiHgc I gucls to be about two leagues to the So;)th F.iit o'' tl e cay.', wv* cqivj: in ?X with the {hip. Finding ir iajpollibk to procec^i r-irtJicr out, we bore up, fei: our sails., and run in s-^'ain to the Sound. I proceeded on, afid found the South ihorc to run nearly Eaft for one mik' cuici a haif, whe;i a linnil r:>tr emptied it- felf into the Sound. The. fhore then took a No'th North Eaft diredion for about two mile? more, in winch fttuation the land took a quick turn round, nuu tl)ere appeared a pafllige near half a mile aciors^ navigable '.nv: crtiiding away di- redly to the Eaftward. 1 c'il no,: follow this pafihgc, ;!<> the boat's crew \ e c quite wet, and a good deal fatigued with pulling i bat ia.vled in a fmall bay to the Northward of it, wh" re 'AC took ^ome refreshment. p. n A Xlll. 1787. Augufl. SaiurUty i8. In -.^imti^'M ^ VaYiAiOE TO THE '^Im^ ttWi %3% pod Jdot snore than tdi yar«^ horn, the hfiuhi thfive wa» a Iun4 of monument ere^ed ptdbably tb ij^ miBmf»Y o£ (bipe dtftingutiked chief. This edifice ymi compel of four po{l«, e«eh about twenty feet longt ftuick in the ground fix feet difitnt firom codi other, ^nd in a quadrangular form. About twehre or fifteen feet from the ^ound there W9& a rough boarded floor, and two of thfi fides were boarded four feet higher up, the other fides were left open. In the middle of this floor an |sbdi^ cheft was df^pofited, which moft likely contained tiiiff remains of fome peribn of confequence; and on that fide of the edifice to. the Weftward, and which pointed up the Sound, there wi^ painted the refemblance of a human faf|e.! This wooden edifice, from its tottering condition, had vcertainly hwn ere^d a confiderable length of time;. 8|n4 OS it began to decay) I could perceive that the Indians^ had fixed fupporters to the original uprights, and the paintii^ appeared to have been frequently touched over. As none of the inhabitants were near us, I was defirous to know what the cheft contained; but on one of the boat's crew attempting to get up in order to examine it^ the whole fabric had like to have given way, on which I ordered him to defift, as I was not willing to deftroy a building that probably was looked upon by the Indians as iacred, and which they apparently took very great pains: to preferve. Some of th^ inhabitants had lately vifited this bay, u we faw a place where a fire had lately been made, and which appeared not to have been long put out. From this place Jofeph Woodcock took a view of the land as given NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. aSi A p. 1787. AuBUfl. Saturdiy i8« given in the annexed plate. We now fteered nearly Weft ^ 5iii. for the ihip, and as we rowed along, I found the North fhore of the Sound to run in a North Weft diredion for about u. mile and a half; it then took a quick turn in to the N )rthward, and formed a fine harbour, with a few fmali iftands well covered with trees fcattered about the entrance, and the harbour feemcd to run in for three or four miles. About fix o'clock in the after- noon I got on board, and underftood from Mr. Hill (to whofe diredion I left the trading bufinefs), that fome of the natives had been on board, from whom he purchaied ' a few pieces of fea-otter and fome good er^line fkins. On the 19th we had a frefh gale from the South Sunday 19; South Weft, with violent fqualls and heavy rains. To- wards evening the wind fhifted to the Eaftward, and grew moderate; but the weather ftill continuing rainy, none of the natives came near us. Neither the wind nor weather appearing fettled enough to get out to fea with, I kept the cooper on fhore brewing fpruce efTence for fea ftore ; the reft of the people were employed in other ne- ceflary works. , In the forenoon of the 20th our late vifiter from the Monday to» North Weft made his appearance in a large boat ; his party confifted of twenty men and women, befides ten or twelve boys and girls, and a few infants. As this chief, when he laft took leave of me, had pro- mifed to return with a good cargo of fea-otter fkins, I expeded a brifk trade to commence every moment, and prepared myfelf accordingly ; but I prefently found that O o at i 282 CHAP. XIII. 1787. Auguft. Monday 20. A VOYAGE TO THE at this time my old acquaintance was not for tran facing his bufinefs in a hurry ; and perhaps he thought that on his laft vifit we were not imprefled with a fufficient idea of his importance ; for now he came along-fide with his party in great pomp and folemnity, all of them finging ; and in addition to the vocal concert, they entertained us with inftrumental mufic, which conlifted of a large old cheft, beaten with the hands, by way of a drum, and two rattles. The rattles were two feet long, and about two inches round, made of iioUow pieces of wood neatly joined together, and a number of fmall ftones being put in, they were clofed at both ends. The chief held one of ihefe rattles in his hand, which he frequently (hook wicli an air of meaning intelligence, and the reft of his tribe feemed to follow his diiedlions, in finging in the moft exadt manner. His drefs was an old coat, made of cloth which for- merly had been fcarlet, with fome old gold or filver fringe about the flioulders ; but that ornament being efteemed of little value, the cloak was decorated down each fide with buttons, and fmall lead pipes, each about an inch long. His hair, after being well rubbed with oil, was entirely filled with down taken from gulls, and which is always worn by the Indian chiefs when in full drefs. In this grotefque figure he difplayed as much importance as any Spanifh don could pofTibly have done. Befides the curious drefs which the chief himfelf wore, he had another in the boat not left remarkable than his own, and ornamented nearly in the fame manner, which was worn during the time of their finging by a woman whom I took for his wife. After NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. After this long ceremony was over, the chief made me a prefent of half a fea-otter fkin, but did not produce any thing for fale ; giving me to underfland at the fame time that he muft go on (hore before any traffic could be carried on. After ftaying there fome time (which I ap- prehend was taken up in aflbrting their furs) he returned with his party ; and now I expected our trade to begin in good earned ; but in this I was again difappointed ; for the finging again commenced, and by way of varying our amufement, the chief appeared in different characters during the time his people were linging ; and always changed his drefs when he varied his charader ; in doing of which fome of his companions held up a large mat, by way of fcene, to prevent us from feeing what was going on behind the curtain. At one time he appeared in the character of a warrior, and feemed to have all the favage ferocity of the Indian conqueror about him. He (hewed us the manner in which they attacked their enemies, their method of fighting, and their behaviour to the vanquifhed enemy. He next affumed the charafter of a woman, and to make his imitation more complete, he wore a mafk, which reprefented a woman's face with their ufual orna- ments ; and indeed it fo exadly refembled a woman's face, that I am pretty certain it was beyond the reach of Indian art, and muft certainly have been left by the Spaniards in their laft vifit to this part of the coaft. '8J CHAP. XIII. 1787. Augull. Monday ta. After this entertainment was over (with which it was neceffary for us to appear pleafed), the chief and fome of his people came on board, and trade at laft commenced between us. In the courfe of the day I bought twenty- five pieces of tolerably good fea-otter, equal to about ten O o 2 whole 284 A VOYAGE TO THE XIII ■1787. Augufl. Monday 20. c v„t ^' whole (kins ; but it fhould feem as if the chief wanted me to pay for the entertainment he had given us, as well as his furs ; for I could not purchafe a good fkin for lefs than a light- horfeman's cap, two yards of inferior broad-cloth, a pair of buckles, two handfuls of fmall beads, and two iim-hooks. The articles we bartered with were light- horfemen*s caps, ftriped woollen blankets, towes, eighteen or twenty inches long, buckles, buttons, and beads of all forts, but particularly fmall tranfparent ones, either green, blue, or yellow. However, I could not procure even a piece of a (kin with any of the latter articles ; they only were given by way of concluding a bargain, as were tin kettles, brafs pans, and pewter bafons ; but hatchets, adzes, and bowels, they would fcarcely take for any thing whatever. My vifiter was equally tedious in trading as he had been in his entertainment ; fo that I could not get every thing he had to difpofe of during the whole day, and about eight o'clock in the evening, our traffic for the day being over, he fent his boat on fliore, and remained on board with one of his people for the night ; and as he re- quired an hoftage, I fent Jofeph Woodcock on fhore with his party. Woodcock having frequently been on fliore as an hoft- age, was well known to the natives, and they feemed very fond of his company. On one of thefe occafions he remained among the Indians for three days ; during which time he had a good opportunity of feeing their cuftoms and mode of living ; and his account perfectly agreed with my own obfervaticns when on fliore. Their filth and naftinefs NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. aSi naftinefs were beyond conception; their food, which ^ 5m^ ^ confided chiefly of fi(h, was mixed up with (linking oil, ■ ■ ' and other ingredients equally difagreeable, atrd the re- AugJii. mains of every meal were thrown into a corner of their ^"'"''J' '°* hut, upon a heap of the fame kind that was in a ftate of putrefadion, which, together with large quantities of fat and (linking oil, caufed a very loathfome and offenfive fmell ; and what rendered it (lill worfe, the fame apart- ment ferved them both to eat and (leep in. This uncomfortable fituation frequently induced Wood- cock to take a ramble into the woods ; but he was always very narrowly watched by fome of his new companions, who feemed to apprehend that he was endeavouring to make his efcape from them. Once in particular, having wandered a connderable didance from the Indians place of refidence, he began to amufe himfelf with whiftling part of an old fong, not expcI C If /\ P. XIII. AuguA. Tueltiiy ti. Their pcrfons are in general much about the fize of Europeans. I'hc men liave a very fierce and favagc afped, which, with their drefs, gives them much the appearance of warriors ; their weapons of war arc daggers and long pointed fpears ; they are very cafily irritated, and would make very little fcruple to kill you when they think them- felves injured. More than once I had nearly experienced that fate, from fome trifling diliigreements in trade ; but being pretty well acquainted with their tempers, I guarded as much againft them as pofllble ; and on all occafions took care to be well provided for them in cafe of an at- tempt, by keeping my pidols ready-charged before me. Their women, were it not for the filth and naftinefs which continually cover them, would be by no means difagreeable ; their features in general aie pleafing, and their carriage modeft. They frequently gave us opportu- nities to obferve their wifh to pleafe, particularly when the P p 2 wooding spa CHAP. XIll. 1787- Aiiguft. TaeAlay 21. A VOYAGE TO THE wooding party were on fliorc ; at thefc times they would place thcmfclves in a line, and begin finging and making motions all the time the men were at work ; and if their drollery happened to pleafe the people, and make them laugh, tliey all in\mediately joined in a loud Inirft of laughter ; and whtn the Indians were not there, they would ailift the people in getting wood and taking it to the boats. They were particularly ufel'ul in taking the wood from the beach through the furf to the boat, as they were not encumbered with fhocs and ftockings; and it faved the men from wetting themfelves. But if at any time the Indians came to them at the time when they were thus making themfelves ufeful, they would inftantly drive then\ all away will very little ceremony. Upon fueh occalions as tliefe, I uR'd to give the people fmall bright buttons to make them prefents, with which their pride and ambition were highly gratified. One time, not having j„ii opportimity of fending the boat on fliorc at the ufual hour, to fetch the wooding-party on board, the women gave them an invitation to their habitations, which was about three hundred yards from the place where they were at work ; and upon this occafion treated them (or offered to do it) with every thing their wretched habitations af- forded, and behaved very kindly to them. Their huts arc made of a few boards, which they take away with them when they go to their winter quarters. It is very furprifing to fee how well they will ihiape their boards with the fhocking tools they employ ; fome of them being full teii feet long, two feet and a half broad, and not more than an inch thick. Tub NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 293 The country is very mountainous, and covered with ^ ^^„^ '*• the pine-tree, a great number of which grow to an amazing (ize. Their language is harfh and unpleafant to the car: a fpecimen oK wliich I have here given, fpelled as near the manner of their pronunciation as I could give it ; 1787. Aucutt. TuelJay ai. Hat frene - ^he or band me» Yoiitfs - Jca oller» Hi'ara - hltlfr. Caw H>»ut - hf,t,ls. H.c, . . irrn. Cd 1 ro'i,;A^,f' '//.^,- , .-.fry /y . / , A^^^ /^ St /^ .^ ,,/,/» ^ NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 295 tendons of going over land to thefe parts; by this means ^ 5j,|^ •*• will be finally determined the long fought North Weft ' — —* paflage, with fome account of the interior parts of the Auguii. country, to which we are yet entire ftrangers. That fuch " '' "* an event may take place, muft be the wiOi of every lover of his country; and though the enterprife is fraught with every danger that idea can fuggeft, yet what is it that Britifh valour dares not attempt ? On the 2 2d at daylight I fent Mr. Hay ward out to fee wcdncf.is. what wind prevailed in the paflage ; in the meantime un- moored. About five o'clock Mr. Hayward returned; he found the wind light and variable, with fome fwell in the pafTage. At feven o'clock a breeze fprung up about Weft North Weft, with which we weighed, and came to fail, and proceeded towards the entering of the Sound, which as we approached, we found the wind very light and variable, from Weft to Weft South Weft, with a confiderable fwell. Heaving into the paflage about ten, the wind vci-y faint, and alnioft dired:Iy in, got the whale-boat and yaul a-hcad to tow the (hip. At eleven very near calm, making very little progrefb; but foon after a ftcady moderate breeze fprung up from the Weft, and juft about this time the tide of ebb making, and the two boats a-head, we got out apace, the Indians in their boats A^llowing us at fome diftancc, and on our getting out of the pafliigc, they returned and went into the Sound. On the 23d about one o'clock we cleared the rocks Thurfj-iyij. which lie off the South point of tb.c harbour^ and ftood away South, the v/ind at Weft South Weft. On the 24th FfiJayj4. a breeze at South Eaft by Soutli, with thick rainy we:i- ther, with which we ftood to tlie South Weft by South, the ^9^ CHAP. XiU. Augull. Saturday 2;> Sunday x6. Monday 27. A VOYAGE TO THE the land in fight ; no obfervation. The 25th light winds and variable, with thick drizzling rain, fteering South Weft half South. On the 26th a frefh breeze and foggy, fteer- ing South South Eaft, the wind at South Weft. The 27th a trefh gale from Wi ft North Weft, and cloudy, fteering South South Eaft. On the 28th a frcfli gale from North Weft, with fog at times. Paflld fome drift wood, a feal, and feveral pieces of fea-leek : our latitude 50° 6' North. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «97 I CHAP. XIV. Pajfagefrom theCoaJi to the Sandwich IJJands. — T'ranfaSiions there. — Letters received from Captaiti Dixon and Mr, Rofs. — Some Particulars received from Taa-hoo-a-raa- ne refpeBing the Death of Captain Cook. — Defcrip- tion of the White Tern. — Cruelty of the Chiefs to their Inferior s.~^Obfervations on a Trade to Botany Bay from thefe IJlands. — Our final Departure from them, — Pajfage to China. — Arrival there. w EDNESDAY 29th Auguft 1787, to Sunday i6th c ir September : nothing in the courfe of this time oc- 1 * ' A P. V. curred which claims particular notice; but being now in scptV longitude 136° 24', there is a fmail ifland faid to have S""'^*y been difcovered by fome Spanish navigator, and laid down, the North part of it, in latitude 26° 50' North, and lon- gitude of the Weft part of it 13 5° o' Weft ; and at two judging myfelf about five leagues to the Northward of that latitude, and in the longitude of 136" 20' Weft, I thought it not prudent to run nearer its latitude until daylight; therefore at two in the morning tacked and ftood to the Weft North Weft until half paft three, when I ftood again to t!v; Southward. At four, a moderate breeze and cloudy weather, the wind at South Weft, ftanding to the South South Eaft, and at daylight there was no appearance of land. Q^q ■ . ' On bfr. 16. I f t I m ^ A VOYAGE TO THE c n A r XIV. September. Monday 17. Friday 28. On the 1 7th, at two in the morning, ftanding to theSouth by Eafl:, faw a huge flight of flying fifli, the firfl: during the palTage. At 2" 30"" I got two fcts of diftances of the fun and moon, which gave the longitude at that time 136° 8" 15''' Wefl. I judge thefe fights to be the mod accurate I had taken, and tliercfore fhall fuppofe the longitude de- duced from them to be the true longitude of the (bip. At Tuefdiy 18. five in the morning faw a few tropic birds, and fome bottle- Thurrday27. nofcd porpoifcs. From this time to the 27 th nothing happened to engage attention ; and then, at half pafl: eight we faw the high land of Owhyhcc, bearing Weft South Weft half Weft, diftant fifteen or twenty leagues; and on the 28th at five in the morning, at which time it was dayligln, we found ourfelves about two leagues and a half from the land : at which time we bore up, and made fail towards the fliorc. At half paft five we were about lix miles from the fhore, when a multitude of canoes came off with the diftcrent produdions of the iflaiid ; fuch as hogs, fowls, bread-fruit, taro, plantains, and a few cocoa-nuts. Of the other articles they brought us an abundant fupply; and although there was a heavy fwell, and the day unfettled, fome of them made three or four trips to ftiore before the evening came on for other cargoes, as they difpofed of their firft. We remained within four or five miles of the Oiorc, from feven in the morning until about feven in the evening, during which time I fuppofe we bought of hogs and pigs near two lumdred; fowls about fix dozen; about three tons of bread-kind; fome bafs rope and fifliing-lines, enough, when laid up, to make about 150 fathom of two-inch rope, the bcft lines that can be made; and we found very little trouble in trading with them, and bought provifions very cheap. They brought very NORTH WrST COAST OF AMERICA. very little fait; and I think very little of that article can be procured about the iiland, except on the Weft fide, where it may be bought in great abundance. The whole day about tourteen hands were employed in killing and falling for fca ftore, and by the evening we had falted nbout two tierces. A number of the large hogs we flcin- ned, finding their (kins of great ufe, for the purpofe of leathering the foot of our fails. To preferve the fkins wc let them lie twenty-four hours in pickle, and then hung them up to dry. After they had been two or three days hanging out, wc made them up in bundles, and, by air- ing them now and then, found they would keep any length of time. At noon, fqually unfettlcd weather, with fome rain, the wind about Eaft North Eaft ; the Northcrnmoft parts of the iiland in fight Weft by North ; the Eaft part of the ifland covered with fqualls ; our diftance from the neareft part of the ifland about five miles. I could not learn from thefe people of any fliip having been lately at this ifland. 299 CHAP. XIV. 1787. •September. Friday tS. Saturday, September 29th, 1787, light variable winds, Saturday i9, with frequent fliowcrs of rain, a very heavy fwcll from the North Eaft rolling in on fliorc, which made the furf very furious on the rocks. At four in the morning, although only four or five miles from the fhore, the weather was fo thick, that wc could not fee it : at half paft five in the morn- ing it cleared up a little, when the Northcrnmoft part of the land in fight bore Weft by North half North, eight or ten leagues diftant, and the Eaft point bore South by Eaft. At fix in the evening a light breeze at Eaft, with open cloudy weather. Two canoes remained with us until this time, when they went for the fliore. At eight Q^q 2 in 300 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ 5fi\? **' if^ the evening, judging myfclf about three leagues from *-—;——' the land, at which diftaixce I wilhed to keep during the s«pt'««b«r. night, we hauled up our courfes, and under our top-fails s««d.y 29. ^^^ JO ji^e j^Qjtl^ by Eaft about a knot and a half per hour, until midnight; then wore Ihip, and flood to the South Haft by South a knot and a half per hour, until two in the morning ; then wore again, and ftood to the North North Eaft, until four in the mornings at which time we wore and ftof)d to the South Eaft until daylight, which was about half an hour paft four. We then found ourftlvcs ab'^^ut three leagues from the land, bore up, and run in about South Weft, until about half paft feven. Wc were then about five miles from the ftiore, the canoe* coming off in numbers, and at eight a brifk trade began for provifions and < ther necellaries; hauled off to the North by Eaft, with a light breeze from the Eaft by North. A heavy fwell rolling in, made it neceffary to keep the flii|>- under ki\\ ; and with all the fail wc could make, we could, fcarce hold our own againft it» At noon a moderate breeze from tl'e Eaftward, with clear weather, the Eaft point of Owhyhee bore South Eaft by South about twelve leagues, and the Northermoft part of the ifland in fight Weft by North about nine or ten leagues, our diftance Irom the neareft fhore about four or five miles : no obfervation to be depended on. During the day caught feveral very large fliarks. It is really afto- nifhing to fee how little thefe people appear to dread thofc fiOi. I have feen five or fix large (harks fwimming about the llilp, when there have been, I dare fay, upwards of an hundreii Indians in the water, men and women ; they * feemvd quite indifferent about them, and the fliarks never offered NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. J0» offcra! to make an attack on any ot them, and yet at the ^ ",^ •*• fame lime woulJ feizc our bait greedily ; whence it is ma- ' — -^ nifeft, that they derive their confidence of fafety, from their Sfpwmbir. experience that they are able to reptl the attacks of tliofc ''""' *' *'" devouring monftcrs. ® On Sunday, September 30th, a moderate bicczc from Sunday 30, the taftsvard, with jileafant weatlicr. A vaft number o£ canoe i abcnit the (Kip, which remained with us till be- tween three aiui four in the evening, whai having fold all * their cargoes, and gratified their curio(ity, they returned to the fliore. By this time I fuppofe we had bought about three hundred hogs and pigs, and an abundant fupply of bread-kind. About four in the evening, with a fine little breeze from the North Eaft by Ealt, we made fail from the ifland, and ftood to the North Weft by North, meaning to run down on the North fide of the iflands to Atoui, where, if the Queen Charlotte had been before us, I fliould expert to receive fome intelligence; if not, I fhould have an opportunity of leaving a letter with our old friend Abbenotx; for captain Dixon, in cafe he fhould call at that ifland. At four in the evening the Northernmoft part of Owhyhee in fight, Wefl three quarters North, and the Eafl point South South Eafl half Eafl, from the nearefl fhorc about four leagues. At fix the North point of Owhy- hee bore Weft: about nine or ten leagues, and the Eafl point South by Eafl three quarters Eafl, twelve or four- teen leagues diftant, and the high land of Mowee from Wefl North Weft half Weft to North Weft by Weft half Weft. At eight, moderate and cloudy weather; at midniglii,. light winds, with open cloudy weather; fteering North Wefb by North, about two knots and a half per hour, the wind. at P HI IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 m 125 Ui Uii 122 £f 1^ 12.0 ■it 1.4 ii 11.6 6" Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) •72-4503 \ ^^ ^ i"^ <^ '^v^ ^!^^ CHAP. XIV. c '787- September. Sunday 30. . Oflober. Monday i. 302 AVOYAGETOTHE at Eaft North Eaft. At four in the morning a light breeze from the Eaft South Eaft, with cloudy weather. At eight the Eaft point of Owhyhee bore South Eaft by South, and the North point bore South Weft, diftant from the neareft fhore feven or eight leagues ; the ifland of Mowee extending from Weft half South to Weft by North. During the day a number of hands were employed in killing and faking pork for fea ftore. Monday, ift October, foon after dark, I was furprifed to hear fome Indians calling out to us, and immediately law a canoe paddling towards the fhip. She came along- iide, and remained a few minutes ; when fhe returned to- wards the ftiore : fhe was from Mowee, and had nothing - for fale except a few bits of cloth. It is furpriiing how thefe people do venture off in their ticklifh canoes. This one was fo fmall that fhe would hardly contain the two men that paddled her. Tuefday2. TuESDAY the 2d, at noon a moderate breeze at Eaft by North, with fair pleafant weather: the extremes of Woa- hoo South 38° Eaft, and South 73° Eaft, diftant from the neareft part about feven or eight leagues: the iiland of Atoui extending from South 80° Weft to North 80° Weft, diftant about twelve leagues. Latitude obferved 21° 58' North. Wednef. 3. At four in the morning a moderate breeze at North by Eaft, and fair weather. Soon after four hauled in for the land, and at daylight (which was foon after five) we found dnrfelves about two leagues from the South point of Atoui, at which time we edged away for Wymoa Bay. In run- 7 ning NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. o ning along-fliore a number of canoes, both large and fmall, came off to us, but brought hardly any articles of provi- fion. I learnt from them, that the king and moft of the principal men of the ifland were at Oneehow, and that, previous to their fetting off for that ifland, they had ta- booed the hogs, which effeftually put a flop to our getting any. I alfo learnt from thefe people, that the Nootka and Queen Charlotte had been at the ifland. The Nootka, they gave me to underfl:and, did not anchor, but proceeded to Oneehow, \vhere flie lay fome time. The Queen Charlotte, they toFd me, anchored in Wymoa Bay, and remained two days, when flie left the ifland and flood to the Southward. I found from their information, that captain Dixon had left a letter for me with Abbenooe, and that it lay at his houfe at Wymao; I therefore ftretched in for the bay, and when about a mile and a half from the fliore, brought-to, with the main-topfail to the maft. 303 CHAP. XIV. > .. ^ 1787. Oaober. Wedncf. 3. Between eight and nine a young man, named Tahiree, a fon of Abbenooe's, came on board, and informed me that the letter was tabooed in the houfe, and that I could not get it until Abbenooe either came himfelf, or fent diredions for its being delivered. I thought the beft ftep I could take was, immediately to pufli for Oneehow, and anchor, where I might have an opportunity of procuring fome yams, vi^hilft a meffenger was going to Atoui for the letter. I accordingly bore up about ten : in : the morning, and made fail for Oneehow,. with a fair breeze at Eaft South Eaft, and fair weather. At noon a moderate breeze with fair weather, Atoui extending from Eaft by North to North North Eaft, Wymoa Bay North Eaft by Eaft about 304 A VOYAGE T O o THE ^ XIV. ^' about four leagues ; the South point of Oneehow South * — — rf Weft by Weft, tliree quarters Weft, fevcn or eight leagues; oaobir. and the ifland of Orehaw North Weft by Weft, eight w.dnef.3, leagues: latitude obferved, 21° 51' North. t Tahiree, Abbenooe's fon, and one or two others, took their paflage with us from Atoui to Oneehow; and from them I learnt, that there had been fome difturbance be- tween the Nootka and them, and that Tyaana, a principal chief of Atoui, had gone off with the Nootka. - Thurrdiy4. A MODERATE. breeze from South Eaft, with fair weather, fteeering to the South Weft half Weft, at the rate of three knots an hour. At four, the Northernmoft part of Onee- how in fight North North Eaft, diftant about three leagues, and the Solith head Weft by South, diftant about two miles. At fix in the evening came to an anchor on the South Weft fide of Oneehow in fixty-two fathoms water, a fine white fandy bottom, and veered to a cable and a half, the South heaxl bearing over a point of land Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, diftant about four or five miles, the Weft point North 10° Eaft, diftant about two leagues; and the Peaked Mountain bearing over the low land. North 40" Eaft, our diftance from the ftiore about two miles. It was by no means neceflary to anchor in fuch deep v/ater as we then lay in, as, by going about half a mile nearer the fhore, you may anchor in forty fathoms, a tolerable good bottom, and at a fufiicient diftance from the fliore; and I . ' would advife no perfon to anchor in lefs water about this ifland, as, if they do, they ftand a hazardous chance of be- ing in foul ground. No canoes came off. At midnight light and variable winds, with clear pleafant weather. At 5 nine NORTH WEST COAST OT AMERICA. A P. nine in the morning two canoes came along-fide, of which ^ ^^y we purchafed a prefent fupply of yams. The people of *— «^ thofe canoes told me that Abbenooe would be on board in paober. a little time, accompanied by the king and his principal " *^^' men. Towards noon no appearance of any canoes ; I came to the determination of fending our whale-boat and yaul on ftiore, to try if any yams could be purchafed from the natives; meaning, if Abbenooe did not make his ap- pearance towards the evening, to fail from the ifland. At noon light variable winds, with fome fmart fhowers of rain. Sent the boats on fhore under the diredion of Meflrs. Hay ward and Bryant. The moft of thefe twenty-four hours a frefli breeze and variable from Eaft South Eaft, around by the Eaft to North Eaft, with fome fhowers of rain. About two in the afternoon the king, accompanied by Abbenou*^ and moft of the other principal men of Oneehow and Atoui, came on board, and brought with them a good quantity of yams and potatoes. I learned from Abbenooe, that cap- tain Dixon's letter was at Wymoa, to which place he aftured me he would fend for it immediately ; preffing me very hard to remain until the return of the meflenger, which he told me would be in about thirty-fix hours. Judging that I could procure yams fufficient to laft us to China, I promifed him I would ftay ; and he accordingly difpatched a canoe immediately for it, under the care of a trufty meflenger; and in the mean time we carried on a very brifk trade for yams and water, which the natives brought off to the fliip in their canoes ; the water in large calabafhes. Towards the evening the boats returned on hoard, not having purchafed many yams. Abbenooe ob- R r ferving 3P* CHAP. XIV. '787- OAober. Friday j. A VOYAGE TO THE ferving on J of the people who was juft returned from ftiore to have only one flioe on, enquired what was beconae of the other ; and the man telling him he had loft it in the furf juft as he got into the boat; my old friend defired him . to point out the place and he would go and look for it ; obierving at the fame tim^, that one ftioe only was of little ufe. I attempted to diffuade him from going, as the evening now came on and the wind blew very frefti, but all to no purpofe. Abbenooe, bent on going to fearch for the fhoe, took a canoe that we kept; for his ufe, and paddled away for the beach ; and in lefs than an hour he re- turned on board, bringing the fhoe and buckle, and was. pleafed to the laft degree that he had been fuccefsful in his undertaking. My old friend acquainted me of the Nootka having failed from this place about a month ago, and captain. Dixon having failed from Atoui about eighteen, or twenty days ago. He gave me to underftand that the Nootka and them parted on bad terms, but that captain Dixon and they parted on terms perfeftly friendly. He told me that they had been fired on by the Nootka, but that no perfon had been hurt; he alfo confirmed the account of Ty-e-a-naa's having gone off with the Nootka, Towards the evening the king and moft of the principal people went on ihore; Abbenooe and a few others remained on. board with' Saturday 6. US all night. In the morning began again a brifk trade , for yams and water. At noon a frefli breeze from the North Eaft, with open cloudy weather* Fresh breezes from North Eaft, with open cloudy weather. The whd,e of thefe twenty -fpur hours employed ^ , 4 purchafing NORTrt WESt COAST OF AlVlERICA. * - 307 pwchafilig yaihs atid Water. In the mofning I deceived k ^ 5iv^ ^' letter, by the hands of one of the chiefs, frbm Mr. Da- < — " ' -j vid Rofs, chief mate of the fnqw Nootka ; in which oftobCT. he merttiohed their iiaving failtd from this iflahd Oii the ^"""^'^ ** 5th day df the lafttnonth : he likewiffe itifortned me that they left an anthor in YaWi Bay, ahd ftii)p6fed that their cable was cut by the Itidians ; but J fliould rathfer fuppofe by the rotks. Sbrtie dtheh letters '«^^ere rfelcfeiVfed by different people 6n board from the Nodtkia, \irhite as fnow ; but the fhafts of the fca- pular quills, and tai), except the three outer feathers, are black ; the tail is forked in fhape, and fhorter than the wings when clofed \}% an inch ; legs brown ; webs orange; claw^s )9laci^<: j|f^i4H>IP: there is a flight mixture of brown on the head^ y Thi9rb¥fd. inhabits various places of the Southern hemifphere; haying been met with off the ifland of ;7^j?s|^f/««4»i; t|ie Ca^ sf Q^ad HoptyJindhy ai4 many of th^ iflswids^ -pf j^^ a; r With {/^^Af. ■^y> ^//l/?V//l ^///irr}}iytJ^^r//m^ /exi;/rt^. ^ lay t tya^ \ , iy ^ .Jtftiii^^L/f <f Say^an. At this timfe otir latitudt, by Ac- count, Was 15* 1 6' North, and loAgittide, frotti obflfVatiCftis brought forwifd, 213* t6' 30" Weft. The Eaft end of Tinian, according to captain Cook's chart, fhould then have bore 5 5* 00' Weft thirty- feven miles, and the bearing we then had of it Was 5 8° 00' Weft, and as near as I could guefs diftant about thirty-three miles; therefore I fhall con- clude, that the fituation given thofe iilands by captain Cook is very nearly the truth. We continued to ftand on to the Weft North Weft half Weft, with a frefli gale from the North Eaft by North until fix, when we altered the courfe to Weft, and fet fteering- fails. We ftood in Weft . until feven o'clock, then fteered South Weft by Weft and Sbtith Weft by South, ranging along the Eaft fide of Sa:y- pan, at the diftiance of about two leagues and a half. At half paft eight, the paflage between Saypan and Tinian open, fteered for it, and about nine pafted clofe to the South end of Saypan ; immediately to the Weftward of . which point is a good bay, with perfed: fmooth water and a fine fandy beach, on which there was fcarce any furf. I did not ftand into the bay, therefore cannot fpeak as to the foundings; but I dare fay the anchorage may be very good. A little to the Weft ward of this bay is another^ which tooks well for anchorage. In paffing through this pafl"age, which trends about Weft by North and Eaft by South) diftance from one iiland to the other between two «nd three leagues, we obferved no foul grounds lying off from either ifland, until we got nearly through; then dii^ cerned a reef lying from the South Weft point of Saypan, North Weft, diftant about half a mile. Indeed, all the Weft fide of Sayphan appears to be bounded by a reef running nearly the fame diftance from the fhore; and from the faid South 8 I .-*• - m W' I NORTfi W^S? COAST Of AMEl^ICA. 3,^: SMiA M^ pttiisff ii^ i' fedl ifland, bearing North half ^ h^ p^ #1^ 'dl(bk tfah^ dr fatfr leagues ; from which ifland t*li»'i*'ia^rt«f-Wtlifedidance^ a league and a ha^f,^ and there ik ^""^'"^ sM^p^r^(aMgM■ frdtn this fmallifland thdft feems to jteli%o Say^han. - 17*7. November. m \ P'V^t^\i^Tirc& ^ ntimher 6f white animals grazing on the pfaM^^of Tiftian, Which we^tippofe to be the white cattle ttertLbrd Anfon fiiys the ifliandof Tinian fo mtich abounds t*itfi. We could not, although \vithin half a mile of Say-« ^ift, obferve an animaOi of any kiind. Both iflands up* pi# bdyond defcription b^tiful, abounding in immemd q^iitkies of cocoa-nut aM btto t^ces. We -could not p«i{i' fo -hear thefe be^iitififl^ illattds without wifliing very itWch'^ partake df the rfefrpfhttieiits they could fo amply fiiriiifli us with, particularly the Trefli beef and acid fruits, aMclbs to whictf we Im^e teen ftraftgers foi: upwards of t#6 years : but as throli^h the Me/ltiig of God we were all ifi '^fea health, and iiot being in heed of any refrefli- niehisj and havhig a fine fteady briflc gale, I thou^t it lUioAadvifabie to pufh on for China; therefore, after get- t^ 'through the paflage, ftood' away to the Weft North Wfeft, with a brfflc gale^dt North Eaft. by North. And to •thef honour of the King George^s Ihip's company be it ey6r #cmenib^ed, that on this^ tempting an occafioikfas; ittdifed on all oftiers), not a murmur was heard, nor a dif« cdnteritted facc-fefen. From this time to the 15th Novem*- b^r noting 'bctfcfred in particular to excite the readfer'ifc attfe1it-k)ia^''- A FRES« 3jS A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. XIV. 1787. November. A FRESH breeze from the North Eaft, with hazy weather and a heavy fea from the North Eaft, with which we are fteering about Weft South Weft, down towards the South Thurfday .5. ^^^^^ ^f ^^^ fj^^u ^^^^^ Tobago Xima. About two in the afternoon w« pafled the reef, which runs off its South Eaft point at the diftance of about half a mile, and then hauled to the Weft by North, with a fix knot gale at North Eaft. Thofe iflands I found to lie in the latitude of 21° 52' North, and longitude of 238° 35' Weft, lying nearly North and South of each other, with an apparently good paffage of about two or three miles broad between them. On the South Weft part of the large ifland the land appeared to bend in and form a good bay, well ftieltered from the North Eaft winds. We obferved a little wood, but it appeared to be low and fmall. The Weftern iide of the large ifland appeared very green and pleafant, and in many places was laid out in cultivated plots, and in feveral places along the fhore were towns of confiderable extent. We did not attempt to haul in for anchorage, but continued to fteer over Weft by North to make the ifland of Formofa, and at half paft three I faw it, the South point bearing Weft by North, diftant about ten or eleven leagues. At four a fine gale at North Eaft, with which we fleered Weft by North fix knots per hour; the large Botel Tobago Xima bearing North by Weft half Weft, and Eaft by North, diftant from the neareft part of it about four leagues, and the fmall Botel Tobago Xima bearing Eaft 74° North, diftant about five leagues. At jfive hauled to the North Weft by Weft, the wind at North North Eaft, the extremes of Botel Tobago Xima bearing North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant about five leagues, and NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3>^ K and Eaft by North fix leagues, the South point of Formofa ^ jJrv! Weft half South, diftant about eight leagues. At fix a ' — — — » frefli gale at North North Eaft, with dark cloudy wea- November. ther. We then clofe-reefed the topfails, wore fliip, and " *^ *^ ftood to the Eaftward. At half paft four faw a large light on the ifles of Botel Tobago Xima, bearing Eaft South Eaft : wore (hip, and ftood to the North Weft, the wind at North Eaft. At midnight a fre(h gale, with cloudy wea- ther. At four in the morning wore fhip, and ftood to the Eaft by North ; and at half paft five day- light, when we bore away to the South South Weft, and made fail, fet fteering- fails. In the courfe of the night we had a current, which fet us about fix leagues to the Northward along the coaft of For- mofa; the South point of which ifland bore South Weft half South, diftant about five leagues, and the Northernmoft part of the faid ifland in fight North by Weft, diftant about twelve leagues. Up main-topgallant yard, and fet the fail : we were fteering along fhore South South Weft towards the South point, at the rate of fix and a half and feven knots per hour, our diftance from the fliore abreaft about two leagues, and in running down faw a good appearance of an har- '' bour about four or five leagues to the Northward of the South point, which feemed to run in in about a South Weft diredion, and between that and the South point feveral fmall hammock rocks, lying at a Tittle diftance from the Ihore. The coaft that we run down along might be ap- proached within three or four miles without any danger. At half paft ten paflfed around the South point within about a mile of the fliore. From off this point there is a reef runs off about half a mile. In about a South South Eaft diredion we faw nothing of the Ville Rete rocks, it being. Very thick in their diredion, and after pafling the Soutb II point,' 330 P H A p. XiV. A VOYAGE TO TH^ • point, wc hauled to the Weft North Weft, at the rate of ' fix and fcven knots an hour. Immediately on getting November, found thc South poittt, I obfervtd the land to bend ihort ihuffday 15. j^^ ^^ ^j^g Northward, and form a very good bay for flielter againrt the North Eaft winds, the water in thc bay quite fmooth, and fcarce any furf on the beach. I had an in- tention of anchoring upon this coaft, and would have done it, had I feen any inhabitants or habitations to have entered into a traffic with them; but as I faw no appearance of this part of the land being peopled, I gave up the idea, and proceeded on towards the coaft of China, with a fre{b gale at North Eaft by North, with frequent gufts from the land, and dark cloudy weather. At noon moderate with vinfettled looking weather, the South point of Formofa bearing Eaft by South, diftant about five leagues, and the Northernmoft part in fight on the Weftern fide North Weft one quarter Weft, diftant four leagues. No obferva- tion. Latitude account 2 2° 06' North, longitude by ac- count 229" 37', longitude by departure 239° 2'. Sunday i8. This momittg at daylight we were furrounded by a mut ■ titudc of Chinefe fifliing-vefiels or junks; at feven faw the land through the haze, bearing from North to Weft North Weft, and at eight faw Pedro Branca, bearing Weft by North, diftant four or five leagues. A moderate breeze at North, with very hazy weather, with which we fteercd Weft by North, about four and a half knots per hour. In this run from the South point of Formofa, the ftiip a-head of the reckoning nearly eighty miles of longitude. At half paft nine,, feeing a Chinefe veflel fteerin^ down towards us, we fhortened fail, and brought-to, in hopes of gettipg a pilot out of her. Sent the whaie-boat on board her, which NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3" HAP. XIV. 1787. November. which returned Toon after, accompanied by a boat from the Chinefe vefle), in which came a pilot, with whom I agreed for his carrying the (hip to Macao for fifty dollars. At half paft ten filled, and ftood to the Weft North Weft, the wind ^""^''^ '*• atNorth,athreeknot breeze. At two, hazy weather; founded in twenty-four fathoms black muddy fandy bottom, Pedro Bianco bearing North Eaft by North, diftant about four miles, and the coaft in fight to the North North Weft, diftant eight or nine leagues. No obfervation; latitude by account 22* 38' North; longitude by departure 242" 10 Weft. Light winds from the Northward, with hazy weather, Monday 19. with which we fteered to the Weft North Weft, one knot fix fathoms per hour, founding from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms over a bottom of black muddy land. At four in the evening the land in fight extended from North by Eafti. to Weft by North, diftant from the neareft part five or fix leagues, and Pedro Blanco, North 88* Eaft, diftant about feven leagues. A ftrong tide or current fetting us to the Weftward, at five founded in feventeen fathoms, black muddy fand. At half paft five the land extended from^ North North Eaft to Weft North Weft, diftant from the neareft part about five leagues, a fmall ifland lying off the coaft, bearing North Weft, diftant about four leagues. Moderate breeze from the North, with hazy weather, with which we fteered to the Weft North Weft, about two knots per hour, regular foundings, from nineteen to fe- venteen fathoms and a half, over a bottom of fine black muddy fand ; at nine anchored with the beft bower in fe- venteen fathoms and a half over a bottom of black muddy iand, the fmall ifiand before mentioned bearing North Eaft half T t North, I'll ^fi 3" C 11 A XIV. Novrmbrr. Mond ly 19. AVOYAGE TO THE ""• North, about four leagues, the coaft in fight from North Kaft by North to Weft South Weft, diftant from the ncarcft point four or five leagues. During the night moderate and variable winds ; at fix in the morning a moderate breeze at North Eaft by North, with which we weighed, and came to fail ; up topgallant yards, and fct the (ails, and ftcered to the South Weft by Well about three knots per hour. At eight a light breeze at North Eaft, with hazy weather, the Wefternmoft part of the Grand Lema bearing South Weft by Weft, diftant fix or feven leagues, the Eafternmoft part of the coaft or iftands North Eaft half North, about the fame dif- tance. And the fmall iftand before mentioned, North Eaft half Eaft, nine or ten leagues diftant, and our diftance from the ncarcft fliore four or five leagues. During the forenoon a brifk breeze at North Eaft, with which we fleered in Weft South Weft, at the rate of four or five knots per hour, for the paflhge to the Northward of the Grand Lcma, regular founding from fifteen and a half to nine- teen and a half fathom over a bottom of muddy fand; and at eleven fqually, hauled in the fteering- fails. At noon a frcfli breeze at North North Eaft, with fqualls, and with which we fteered Weft South Weft, in the paflhge to the Northward of the Grand Lema fix knots per hour, the Eaft part of the Grand Lema bearing South Eaft by South thirteen or fourteen miles, and the Northernmoft land in fight North Eaft by Eaft, our diftance from an iftand to the North North Weft about one mile. No obfervation. Tuefdayzo. A FRESH brcczc at North North Eaft, with hazy wea- ther, with which we fteered Weft North Weft four knots per hour, founded frequently as we run in, and found depth of water from thirteen to fifteen fathoms over a 6 ' muddy NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. muddy bottom. At four in the evening a moderate breeze at North, with which we fl:ood to the Weft North Weft half Weft, three knots per hour, almoft furrounded by iflands. At five anch(>red with the bcft bower in eight fathoms and a quarter water, over a bottom of mud ■, the extremes of Lanton bearing South Eaft by Haft a quarter Eaft, and South Eaft halt Eaft ; iflands all round ; our dirtanee from the neareft fliore about two miles } down topgallant vards. During the night light and variable winds, with cloudy wea- ther. At fix in the morning, with a light bree/e from the Northward, we weighed, founded frequently as we approach- ed the paflage leading to Macao, and found from eight to liv fathoms over a muddy bottom. About nine, by borrowing too near the Southern andEaftern fliore, we fuddenly flionlcd our water to three Aithoms and a half; but by keeping a little to the North, we deepened it again to fix fathoms, and then ftood through the paflage : a frefli breeze at about North Eaft by North, with clear weather. At half paft ten, the tide of ebb having made, we came to an anchor with the beft bower in nine fathoms, muddy bottom ; the city of Macao bearing North Weft half North, diftant about five or fix leagues. At noon a moderate breeze, with, fair weather; latitude obfcrved 22° 10' North. 323 p. H A XIV. 1787. Novembfr. TucMiy 20. u A MODERATE brcczc at North, with liazy weather. At w«dntf.2i. one in the afternoon, the ebb-tide having flacked, we weighed and ftood towards Macao ; and at half paft four anchored with the beft bower in four fathoms and a half, muddy bottom, in Macao Road, the. town bearing Weil by South, diftance two or three leagues; and Lanton Peak Eaft. At five fent the whale-boat on fhore to Macao. At fix in the morning a frefh breeze at North by Weft, T t 2 , witfi 3H A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. November. W«dner. 2i« ^ 'xiv ^' ^^^^ ^"^ weather. Saw lying in the Typa two large fliips under French colours : one of which I found to be a thirty-two gun frigate, and the other an armed ftore-fhip : their deftination, after leaving this, is generally fuppofed lo be to the idand of Formofa, where it is believed the French mean to get a footing. About feven in the morning the boat returned, having finifhed her bufinefs. The officer in her brought me a letter from captain Dixon, informing me of his fafe ar- rival in China ; and that in confcquence of cargoes being procured for our two (hips, he had proceeded up to Wam- poa, where the Nootka was alfo arrived from Prince William's Sound, and a (hip called the Imperial Eagle, com- manded by a captain Berkley, from King George's Sound; Englifh property ; under Iinperial colours. We heard of two veffels from India to the North Weft coaft being miffing; the one commanded by a captain Peters, and the other by a captain Tipping ; moft likdy cut off by the natives of that coaft. After receiving on board for the ufe of the fhip's company 257 pounds of frefli beef and fome vegetables, fent the boat on fhore again to get \ a pilot for the (hip to Wampoa. Thurfday 21. LiGHT winds at Notth by Weft, with pleafant weather; in the afternoon moored fliip with the kedge anchor ; ar- rived on board nine feamen, late belonging to the ftiip Imperial Eagle, and two late of the Nootka, to take a paffage to Wampoa. Friday xj. MODERATE brcczcs from the North North Eaft, with fair pleafant weather. At feven in the evening the pilot came NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 325 came on board. At four in the morning weighed, and ^ ^^^ ^'• came to fail from Macao towards Wampoa ; and at noon ♦-; -^ was turning to windward between Macao and Lanton. No7ember. Before we left Macao, received on board eleven Lafcars ^'"""*"' ^^• and four feamen more as pafTengers for Wampoa. A MODERATE breczc from the Eaftward, with fair plea- fant weather. At one in the afternoon, the flood being rpent, came- to with the beft bower in ten fathoms water, loofe fandy bottom : the iHand of Lanton, the Peak, bearing Eail by South, and the South weft point of Ma- coa Weft South Weft. At half paft four weighed and came to fail ; fet fteering-fails. The tide of flood being expended, at ten came-to with the beft bower in nine fathoms and a half water, muddy bottom. At feven in the morning weighed and came to fail. At eight pafted the Bocco Tigris j and at noon were plying to windward up Canton river. Light breeze from the Eaftward, with pleafant wea- Sunday ii;. ther. At two in the afternoon came-to with the beft bower in feven fathoms and a quarter water, muddy -^bot- tom. .At the fame time came on board captain Dixon of the Queen Charlotte : the firft pagoda bearing North Weft half Weft, four or five leagues. At feven in the afternoon weighed and came to fail. At eleven came-to with the beft bower in fix fathoms, two miles below Wam- poa ; and at ten in the morning weighed again, and dropped up to Wampoa, and moored fhip with both an- chors in five fathoms water. Whilst we lay at Wampoa, our principal bufinefs was to refit the ftiip, and take a cargo of tea on board on ac- count , 'i 326 A V O Y A G E TO THE c H^ A P. count of the Eaft India Company. An account of the *» > ■ .» difpofal of onr furs, and other material incidents, being No'vember. givcu in Captain Dixon's voyage, I refer the reader to Sunday zj. that publication. During this interval, a dangerous mutiny happened on board the Belvidere, captain Greer, then lying at Wampoa. A thing of this nature being of the moft dangerous con- fequence to a commercial country, I have captain Greer's permiflion to publifh the examination of the mutineers before a court of inquiry; w^hich, together with fome anecdotes of Tyaana, whom I met with at Canton, will be- the fubjedt of the next chapter. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3^7 CHAP. XV. \^n Account of a Court of Inquiry held at the Requefi of Captain Greer ^ of the Belvidere^ on his People who mu- tinied in his Abfence. — The Court's Determination there- on^ and Punijhment infliSied upon the Mutitieers. — Ac- count of meeting with Tyaana ' at China, — His Beha- viour there. — Attention paid him. — Return to his owft Country, "-'A port Defcription of his Perfon. Wampoa, 9th December 1787. At a Court of Enquiry held on board the Earl Fitz- william in conlequence of the following Letter from the Council of Supercargoes : To Captain James Dundasy Commander of the Earl Fitz^ william^ and fenior Commander, SIR, TTAVING taken into ferious confideration the circum- ■■■ -■• ftances of the late riot and mutiny on board the Bel- videre, and the dreadful confequences that might be ap- prehended to the honourable Company's property, and the general intereft of the nation, in the trade of this place, were fuch an ihftance of licentioufnefs pafled over with- out due punifhment ; and being of opinion with the com- manders whom we have con fulted on the occafion, that the CHAP. XV. 1787. December. Ul I 328 CHAP. XV. 1787- December. - AVOTAGETOTHE the infliding immediate and fevere corporal chaftifement on the principal offenders will more effedually contribute to the end propofed, of deterring others from following fo dangerous an example, than coniigning them over to the more dreadful punifliment which they have incurred from the laws of their country, on account of the diflance of time which muft neceflarily intervene, and the pro- bable abfence of thofe on whom we wifli it to operate as an example : We requeft you will, at fuch time as fliall be moft con- venient to you, aflemble the commanders of the feveral {hips, to confult and determine on fuch punifhment to be inflidled on the offenders a!s fhall appear to you propor- tioned to their feveral offences, and report to us your opinion of the fame. We are, SIR, Your moft obedient humble Servants, (Signed) Henry Browne. John Harrison, junior. G. Gumming, junior. Alex. Bruce. Canton, Cha' Edw" PiGOU. 8th December 1787. Henry Lane. On receiving the foregoing order, made the fignal for all commanders ; read the faid letter ; fent for the pri- foners and principal evidences on board the Earl Fitz- william; and defired them to prepare themfelves for a court to be held here at eight o'clock next morning. o Wampoa, l: NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Wampoa, loth December 1787. PRESENT: Captains, JAMES DUNDAS, Prcfident. Alex* Montgomery. [oseph huddart. [. H. Dempster, James 'Monro. Henry Churchill. George Blachford. W" Hardcastle. David ToUme. George Millett. Richard Pennell. William Storey. Philip Dundas. John Dennis. John Paiba. Charles Lindegren. chap. XV. « '787- DcMmber. 5 The court being met, read the above order from the council of fupercargoes. Called the prifoners, and read the following charge : You John Berry, Abraham Lilly, Henry Ladfon, James KeifF, Anthony Garland, Robert Skinner, Thomas Langford, William Conner, Timothy Kelly, and . Jjhn Haftings, not having the fear of God before your jyes, U u .are 33° CHAP. XV. 1787. December. A VOYAGE TO THE are cliargcci with the high crime of mutiny ; in firft medi- tating aforethought a defign to infult the officers of the ftiip Belvidere, to which you belonged ; and carrying the fame into execution, by refufing to obey the commanding officer, by feizing him, beating him, and otherwife ill-ufing him, on Saturday night the firft of December in this prefent year, and continuing your mutinous behaviour till Sunday noon, when you attempted to carry the command of the fliip Belvidere againft your officers ; which you in fome mea- fure effeded, by turning the guns aft upon them, and threatening to murder them ; by breaking open locks, and threatening to fire the powder and blow up the fhip. And further, even when affiftance was called from the reft of the Company's {hips, for the purpofe of enabling the officers to refume their command, and procure peace to fuch of his Majefty's fubjeds as were willing to return to their duty on board the Belvidere, you wantonly armed yourfelves with fhot and other dangerous weapons, and attempted the life of fuch of his Majefty's fubjeds as en- deavoured to fupprefs your mutinous behaviour ; intreat- ing and pcrfuading the reft of the fhip's company to affift you, and threatening to murder them if they did TiOt join you in this mutiny : but, thank God, the murders that might have been the confequence were happily prevented by the immediate affiflai.ce from the commodore. We are therefore called upon by our honourable matters to make inquiry into this matter. Mr. David Dunlop, chief officer of the fhip Belvidere^ called in and examined. Defired him to inform the court 9 of NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutmy they are accufed of ; which he did as followeth : On Saturday night the firft of December, between ten and eleven o'clock, I was going to bed, and heard Ladfon, Keiff, and Conner finging and making a noife on the gun-deck ; I defired them to leave off and not make fuch a noife to difturb the people on board the fhip ; to which Ladfon replied, that he thouglit it was hard he had not the liberty of finging a fong. I told him he might go on the forecaftle and fing till he was tired, but he muft not iing on the gun-deck. They left off making a noife, and I went to bed ; in half an hour afterwards was furprifed to hear them make more noife than before. I turned out, and defired my fervant to bring me a light ; I went for- ward to them, and defired them to leave off; when James Keiff laid hold of the candle that was in my hand. I feized him by the collar, and endeavoured to get the candle again, when he put the candle out. I was very ill ufed in the dark by Keiff and others : I received fe- veral blows : there were feveral billets of wood hove. I then called for lights. The mat-es who were on board were foon with me. I held Keiff faft by the hair of the head; being determined to put him in irons. The people turned out, and faid he fhould not be put in irons. The men who made the people turn out were Abraham Lilly, John Berry, Henry Ladfon, James Keiff, Anthony Gar- land, Robert Skinner, Thomas Langford, and William Conner. James Keiff was handed upon the quarter-deck, and while the carpenters were getting the irons, the pri- foners behaved in a mutinous manner ; and William Con- ner threatened the fifth mate, Mr. Law, and faid he U u 2 would 33 » CHAP. XV. 1787. December, >iv 33a 1787. December. A VOYAGE TO THE would be his butcher. Berry, Lilly, and Ladfon, ap- peared at their head near the quarter-deck, and declared they were on board of a merchantman, and no man fliould be put in irons or puniflied for any offences whatfoever. The man James Keiff was put in irons. I dcfired the people to go to their hammocks ; but they would not quit the deck, where they remained till between two and three o'clock on Sunday morning, when they began to drop oiF; and I believe by three the deck was clear of them. I then ordered one of the officers, with two midfhipmen and a quartermafter, to keep watch ; and in cafe of any difturb- ance to call me. I then went to bed. On Sunday morning, when the hands were called, the boatfwain informed me the people refufed to turn out; on which I went forward among them ; telling them the bad confequence that would attend refufing to do their duty, and behaving in fuch a mutinous manner, for which I was convinced they had no caufe. Upon which they went and wafhcd the decks, and remained very quiet till one o'clock of the fame day, when they lufhed fuddenly up from the gun-deck, armed with gunners handfpikes, billets of wood, marlinfpikes, and double-headed fhot, and rufhed aft on the quarter-deck, with John Berry and Abraham Lilly at their head, threatening they would murder any man who fhould attempt to oppofe their releafing the prifoner. The fixth mate, Mr. James M'Culloch, was knocked down by John Berry with a marlinfpike which he held in his hand with a lanyard to it. I attempted to flop them, but was very near being thrown over-board ; I faved myfelf by getting hold of the lanyard of the fore- raaft main-fhroud. They took the prifoner on the main- deck, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 333 deck, knocked off his irons and threw them over-board. ^ "y"^ ^• Berry then faid the day was their own, and ordered to give * •^'- -* three cheers, v/hich they did. I ordered the gunner to December, hand the arms out of the gun-room, that I might fecure the ringleaders and take them into cuftody. The people then went down on the gun-deck, fecured the ports, knocked away all the ladders, and pointed the two bow- guns aft; they alfo broke open the fore-fcuttle, and cleared away a quantity of cordage that was on the magazine fcuttle ; they clapped bolts and the poker into the fire, to ferve as matches. Being afraid I would come down updn them, they raifed a report that they had broke open the magazine and loaded the two bow-guns. Seeing that all the officers were of opinion that it would be dangerous to attack them in that fituation, left they might accidentally or wilfully blow up the fliip, I went forward to the fore- hatchway on the upper-deck, and defired them to keep from the magazine. Berry, Lilly, Ladfon, Skinner, and . ' Garland were the men that fpoke to me from the gun- deck ; they faid if any of the officers attempted to come down on the gun-deck they would certainly murder them> and fooner than they fliould be taken would blow the fhip up. In a few minutes after this, the fecond mate, Mr. Craigy came on board. Finding that there was no probability of getting them from the magazine while I remained on board, I left the fhip ; leaving orders to the ftcond mate not to let any boats come along- fide, nor let our people out of the fhip, or fuffer them to have any liquor. I " then went on board the Earl Fitzwilliam, and returned with Mr. Raitt, on board our fhip, and fent for the third mate, and ordered him, as foon as all hands were called, to take pofleffion of the lazaretta, with fix quarter- mafters li 1 334 CHAP. XV. 1787. December. A VOYAGE TO THE mafters armed, and if any attempted the magazine, to run him through. I ordered the gunner, with his two mates, to defend the gun-room, and if any attempt was made, to fhoot thofe that did. All hands were then called, and appeared upon the upper-deck, with John Berry and Abraham Lilly at their head ; and Mr. Raitt and myfelf endeavoured by fair means for them to deliver up the ringleaders, which Berry and Lilly abfolutely refufed to do. Berry faid he would fight all the fhips at Wampoa fo long as the Belvidere's fides (luck together, and would die to a man before any of them fliould be punifhed. I found that the boats were advancing ; and the people, armed with (hot, threatened to fink the boats if they attempted to come along-fide. I immediately ordered the ofiictis to arm, and clear the deck of them, and to kill any msn who fhould attempt to throw (hot at the boats. The upper-deck was immediately cleared ; they jumped down the fore-hatchway and rufhed to the fore-fcuttle. There was immediately a cry on the gun-deck that they had got poffefTion of the magazine. While Mr. Raitt and myfelf attempted to clear the main-deck, John Btr.y and John Haftings were armed with {hot, and threatened to throw them at us ; I went down then on the main-deck by the main-fcuttle ; the firft man I met with was KeifF, whom I fe cured and handed upon the quarter-deck. I believe in the fpace of five minutes all the prifoners were fecured. Queftions to the Witnefs. Abraham Lilly. Was I the head man prefent with Berry when KeifF was taken out of irons ? Anfwer. You was. Lilly. NORTH WEST COAST OF . MERU \. J3? Lilly. Was I one of the men that anfwered you firo" ^ ^^^ f the gun-deck ? ^"^^7 ** Anfwer, You was* i>«Mmb«, Lilly-, Was I one of the fix that threatened to cut the people down to turn out ? Anfwer^ To the bell of my knowledge you was, Anthony Garland, Was I feen at the fore-hatchway-?' Anfwer, Yes». Garland, Was I on the quarter-deck when KeifF was refcued ? Anfwer, To the beft of my knowledge you was. Henry Ladfon, Was I at the fore-hatchway when the people fpoke to you from below ? Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was, . » Garland. Was I one of the fix that threatened to cut the people down to turn out ? Anfwer, To the beft of my knowledge you was. Robert Skinner. Was I one of the fix that threatened to cut the peeople down to turn out ? Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you was. Skinner. Was I one of thofe that fpoke to you from the fore-hatch ? Anfwer. To the beft of my knowledge you wasr. > '(• John 336 AVOYAGETOTHE ^^" ^ ^' *John Berry. Was J one of the fix that threatened to XV. cut the people down to turn out ? December. Anfwzr. To thc bcft of my knowledge you was. Court. Did you fee or know who thofe men were that took off thc irons and threw them over-board ? Anfwer. I cannot fay. Court. At what hour was it when thofe people fpoke to you from the fore-hatchway ? Anfwtr. About a quarter paft one o'clock, when the ports were laflied in. Court. Was any officer prefent fit the above converfatioir at the fore-hatchway ? Anfwer. Yes, thc third and fixth mates.' Court. This witnefs further fays, there are two of the prifoners, Haftings and Conner, always behaved well till this affair, and he believes they were led into it by thc reft. Court requefted to know of the prifoners if they wanted to afk Mr. Dunlop any more queftions ? Prifoners. No. Mr. Milliken Craig, fecond officer of the fhip Bclvidere, called in and dcfired to inform the court of what he knew refpeding the prifoners and the mutiny. It was near one o'clock on Sunday when I met captain Clarkfon between the Earl Fitzwilliam and 1 2 Hilfborough. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. jjy Hilfborough. H« inquired if captain Greer was in the ^ "J^^ ''• boat; he faid not; when he imincdiatcly told him tlicic *- — -'^ was a mutiny in the Bclviderc. j;c'c«mbi 1 (hould wait for orders how to adt with him. I theni fent for the guni>er, and defired him to fee t^ie maga- zine a:|id the guns iecured; he reported it was 4o"e;> the officers at t!ie feme time were ajlowed to walk the deck pr any part of the ftiip they pleafed. The fhip was- perfedly quiet till the note came from the commodore, and alio dfterwa^rds till'N^r. Raitt and Mr, Dunlop came on ,board : thfcy t^en objeded to tJieir coming on bpard, and came aft in a mutinous manner^ upon which I prevented ^tlieir X X obftruft- k'l. 338 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ xv^ ^' o^ftru<^iog the paflkge of the above gentlemen. Mr. Dun- 1787. Decenber. lop defired all hands to be called: Mr. Raitt and Mr. Dunlop delivered thefe orders (ent by the commodore, which was to deliver up the ringleaders j they all objedied to it, and fwore they would die to a man before they would permit it. Mr. Raitt then pointed out the folly of {landing out againft fo many ihips here ; they faid they did not care, they would give it red-hot on both fides, particularly Berry. The attack was then made on the mu- tineers by the officers on board and in the boats; they were drove below and taken prifoners, Queftions from the Court. What boats were thofe that were prevented from coming along-fide? ' Anfwer. Mr. Temple was in the boat; do not know what fhip the boat belonged to. Court. When the people came aft to prevent Mr. Dun- lop coming into the mip, who were the men that came for- ward? Anfwer. Berry and Lilly. .J yyct X Court. What did Mr. Dunlop fay to you when you went in to dinner? Did he mention the circumftance of the man being taken out of irons, aild what fteps he had taken previous to your coming on board? Anfwer* Yes. ' Court. When the (hip^s company rcfuied to give up the ringleaders, were there any of the men that you particu- larly obfer\'ed to take the lead? Anfwsr* NORTH WEST COAST Oi? AMERICA. Anfwer. Yes; Garland, Ladfon, Berry, and Lilly. 339^ CHAP. XV. Court. When you was going along-iide, did they en- DcmJiw. deavour to prevent you ? Anfwer. No. Court. When the attack was made on the mutineers, where was you, and did you obferve any man take a more adtive part than another in the mutiny ? Anfwer. I was on the quarter-deck loading my piflolsj the moft adtive men were Berry and Lilly. Court. Was you prefent at the fecuring the whole, or any part of the prifoners ? Anfwer. I recoiled fending Skinner up the fore hatch- way. Court. What was his behaviour at the time? did he re- (ift much ? Anfwer. No, he did not. , Captain Greer. When Mr. Dunlop quitted the (hip, did they demand any terms of you? if fo, what were they? - , J'nfwer. None. Court. Did you give orders to prevent boats coming along-fide after Mr. Dunlop left the (hip? Anfwer. I did, not to le;t boats come along-fide with- out my knowledge. m XX 2 The 34° CHAP. XV. "' A %^ O V A C £ TO THE The pripMiers were then afked by the court if they had any queftions to put to the witnefs ? They all anfwered, December. No, they had nonc. Mr. Adam Cumine, third officer of the (hip Belvidere^ called in, and defired to inform the court of what he knew of the prifoners and mutiny. At about half paft ten c>'elock of SatuixJay night, the I ft of December, I heard the chief mate get up and call for a light, as the people were then finging aiid making a riotous noife; I fufpeded he meant to go forward, and quiet them. The fifth mate followed them immediately, and myfelf very foon after. I had at that time no idea the chief rikte would meet with any ill treatment; but by the time I got forward, was much furprifed to find that James KeifF had feized the light out of his hand ; and the chief mate, who had then got Keiff down upon a chfeft, was attempting to retrieve the light, the fifth mate giving him every afliftance in his power. We dragged fCeiff aft into the fteerage; I then perceived the people meant to make a general mutiny, there being a cry from all quarters, Tiu-n out, turn biat; at the fanie time ^ ftool and fome Other things were hove aft amongft us in the fteerage. The petty officers then interpofing in our favour, we got Keiff upon the quarter-deck, and put him in irons. The people were by this time all upon the quartet-deck, and Were in- fifting upon having the prifonet! delivered up to thci^; but being oppofed by the officers at the bffeak of the quarter- deck, they did not attempt to force their w^y aft. Lad- fon, Conner, and Kelly, being the principal ringleaders,. • •> - gave •>9- NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 34» gave the chief mate a great deal of abufe, and even threat- ^ \^ '' ened to take the fifth mate's life. The chief mate beg- ^ " "^ ged they would go to their beds, affured them if they of- Pocember. fered to relieve the prifoner, he would inftantly arm and proceed againft them, reprefented how dreadful the confe- quences might be, aud he would at any time get afTiftance from the other fhips, with which he could with the greatelk eafe fecure every one of them. They ftill continued their abufe, and even refolved not to quit the deck without the prifoner ; however, about two o'clock, many of tJicm be- gan to flip off the deck, and by three there were very few remaining, and every thing was once more quiet, and re- mained fo till the next day at noon. Some time after we had piped to dinner, the chief mate fcnt for me, told me he believed the people intended forcibly to reliev'C the pri- foner after dinner, and defired I would order all the quar- ter-mafters to be ready. Before we could get armed, they all ruflied aft in a body; Berry at the head, who threat- ened to knock the firft man down, who came in their way, with a marlin fpike which he carried in his hand. We the officers and petty officers threw ourfelves in before thejn, and Berry f^ruck the fixth mate on the fhoulder with the marlin fpike, which brought him to the deck. We found it impoflible to detain the prifoner, whom the mutineers car- ried forward, knocked off his irons, and threw them over- board: then Berry called out, We have got the day, let us give three cheers; which they accordingly did. They then went down below, pointed the two bow guns aft, lowered down the ports, and unihipped all the ladders. Berry and Lilly came aft into the fleerage, and gave the officers every abufe they could think of; they were even heard to fay from below they would break open the magazine. The boat-. -• - § , . , fwain 34a AVOYAGE TO THE ^ X7? **' fwain then went down below, to fee if they intended to ^ ^ ^ -* take fuch a dangerous ftep ; they told him they were all December, ready for doing it, and would certainly do it the moment they were attacked by the officers, which prevented the chief mate from attacking, as he intended to have done. Having ordered every body to arms, the chief mate or- dered me to take the yaul and go on board the Fitzwilliam, and requeft captain Dundas to give his advice. In the dan- gerous fituation the fhip was, captain Dundas defired I would return, and if the chief mate wanted afliftance from the other {hips, to let him know immediately and he would fend a boat from every fhip in the fleet. By the time I returned the fecond mate came along-fide, and the people feemed inclinable to return to their duty; but in a moft daring manner came aft, and infilled upon terms which were not granted them, as they had pofTeffion of the gun- deck and magazine, and we had every realbn to think from their behaviour when the fecond mate came along- fide, that they would be perfedly quiet when he was left commanding officer. The chief mate quitted the (hip in a fampan, it being his opinion, the fecond mate's, and my own, that the ringleaders could be fecured when the people were in a ftate of fobriety. It happened as we expeded : the moment the chief mate quitted the fhip, they returned to their duty, got the guns in their places when ordered by the fecond mate, and every thing appeared perfedly quiet. About three o'clock the Locko's boat came along- fide, to know if we wanted any affiflance. The people let the officer come on board without any diflurbance. He foon after left the fhip. About four o'clock the chief matej and Mr. Raitt the chief mate of the Fitzwilliam, came on board. The mutineers let the officers come on 7 -. board NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 343 board after fome altercation, but ordered the boat to fliove ^ 5vf ^ off, threatening to flave her if they refufed. The chief ^ "g """* mate then called me, and ordered me to take fix quarter- December, matters down to the lazaretta armed, and defend the ma- gazine, and to run any man through that fhould attempt to enter it. I can give no account of what paffed after this upon the upper-deck and gun-deck, as I did not come up till moft of the mutineers were feized. (Signed) A"* Cumine, December 4, 1787. 3d Mate, Belvidere. Having read this to the court, and affirming it as true, he then proceeds as follows: After I had been fome time in the lazaretta, they lifted the fcuttle leading to the ma- gazine, and were going to jump down j being oppofed, they afterwards laid the fcuttle over again. A little time after they lifted it off again, and then they faid they were determined to jump down. I affured them if they did, I would run the firft man through. Notwithftanding which, a man (Paterfon) jumped down, and I wounded him. . After him numbers immediately jumped down, firft throw- ing billets of wood and Ihot, and drove me from the laza- retta. I cannot recollodt if any of the prifoners were there. Court. Do you know who took Keiff off the quarter- deck, and who knocked his irons off? 'Anfwer, Berry and Patterfon. Court. What were the terms that the people demanded of the chief mate, and what officers were prefent when they did fo? Anfwer, 344 C H A P. XV. A VOYAGE TO THE Anf'wer. They demanded that they fhould have an al- k- — '■'-^ lowancc of grog, and likewife that Keiff fhould be at T)c«n?ber. liberty. The officers prefent were the chief, the fecond, fifth and fixth mates, and the vvitncfs. Court. Who were the men that alked thofe terms? Jinfwer. Lilly and Garland, Captain Greer. Did they not demand a midfhipman (Mr, Clayton) to be turned before the maft ? Anfwer. I heard it called out, but do not know from whom. Court. Did it appear to you during the mutiny that the people were in a ftate of intoxication? Anfwer^ Very few of them I think. Court, Do you recollect any of that few tTiat were in that ftate? Anfwer. Kelly; noiDe «lfe among the prifoners but him. Court. Do you know the man that threatened the fifth mate's life? Anfwer, Yes^ Conner. Queftions alked by the Prifoners. ^John Berry. Whether he faw nie knock the irons ofF Keiff? . Anfwer. The witnefs faw him carry Keiff forward, and very udlive about him ; but cannot fey who immediately knocked them off. Mr. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 1.1 3h Mr. Law, fifth officer of the Belvidere, called in, and ^ ^\^^ ^'^ defired to inform the court of what he knew of the pri- ' — ' foners and the mutiny. _ '' 7- Deiembef. At half pad ten o'clock on Saturday night, the ift De- cember, I heard Mr. Dunlop call for a light. 1 was then in the great cabin ; I followed him, and faw Mr. Dunlop collar KeifF, and Keiff take the light from Mr. Dunlop. A fcuffle then enfued. KcifF tore Mr. Dunlop's fhirt. I aflifted Mr. Dunlop in getting him aft; during the time a billet of wood was thrown from forward, which ftruck me on the leg. Conner came aft ; I did not know his in- tentions, and pufhed him forward. KeifF was put in irons with difficulty. I was laft in coming upon deck, and turning round, I faw the people aflembling a-breaft the main-maft ; Ladfon, Berry, and Conner, laying down terms to Mr. Dunlop, and infifting on having Keiff out of irons. Berry faid. Don't let us ftand about it, let us take him out. A long altercation enfued till one in the morn- ing ; they then began to difperfe. An officer was then or- dered to keep the watch through the night ; during which in my watch they were quiet. At twelve o'clock the next day, Sunday the 2d December, the people came up armed, Berry in particular. With a marline-fpike they rufhed aft, with Berry at their head, and took the prifoner forcibly out of irons. They then began to make a great difturb- ance, threatening Mr. Dunlop, and calling him a number of abufive names, faying, that the fhip was now their own, and that no man fhould be punifhed without they thouglit he deferved it. They barricaded the (liip, and fwore that no boats fhould come along- fide : all the prifoners and moft of the people making ufe of thefe or like expreflions. Y y Tiiey 34^ AVOYAGETOTHE ^ xvt ^' They handed up fhot upon deck, and got every thing ne- ^-"--^ ceflary to keep the boats ofF in cafe they were boarded. Becember. Berry and Lilly faid they would die upon deck rather than give the fliip up. Court, Did Berry ftrike the fixth mate to the deck, and at what time? Anfwer. I cannot fay. . 4 i. - Court, Did you fee any body attempt to pufli Mr. Dun- lop overboard, or did you fee him nearly in that fitu- ation ? Anfwer. I faw him nearly in that (ituation, but faw no man do it. .7 , . Court, In what ftate was the fhip's company as to fo- briety during the Saturday night and Sunday ? Anfwer, Kelly was the only drunken man I faw amongft them. — William Conner, Did you hear me threaten your life? Anfwer, Only my ears. ;. Court to the prifoners. Have you any more queftions to put to the witnefs? Prifoners Anfwer. No. Mr. James M*Culloch, fixth officer of the fhip Belvi- dere, called in, and defired to inform the court of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Upon J47 C H A P, XV. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Upon the ift of December at niglit, I as ufual put the lights out at nine o'clock, and immediately went to bed ; but before 1 was long afleep, I was awakened by a noife I December. heard upon deck. I then got up, and without putting any other clothes on but my breeches, went upon deck, and there faw all the foremaft-men together in the waift: but the man who was then fpokefman was William Con- ner, who then faid they were all determined to have James Kciff out of irons that night; and Henry Ladfon, who declared there (hould nothing prevent them having him to jQeep on the gun-deck that night, and in his own ham- mock ; and John Berry faid. What lignifies talking, let us one and all go and take him, and fee who dares hinder us.. Robert Skinner and Samuel Walker likewife were refolved upon relieving the prifoner; as for the reft of the people, they ftood behind their backs, declaring and fignifying their approbation of every thing the ringleaders propofed j however, feeing the officers and petty officers were de- termined to guard the prifoner all night fooner than fuffi^-r him to be relieved by them, they wifely went to bed. However, Mr. Dunlop thought proper to make one officer keep watch with two midfhiipmen.and two quarter-mafters ; the reft turned in, but were ready upon a moment's warn- ing to be upon deck; but we had the fatisfadion to re- main quiet for the reft of the night. Next morning the people got up and waftied the main-deck without making any noiie; and for my own part I thought the men had refled:ed deliberately on their behaviour: but at twelve o'clock, when the boatfwain and his mates had piped to dinner, they all of courfe went below, and the fliin's fteward as ufual ferved out their grog. But I do not think they had time to eat their dinner, when they came upon Y y 2 deck 348 C H A XV. 1787. December. A VOYAGE TO THE '• deck with their champion ringleaders at their head, armed -» with fids, marlinfpikes, pump-bolts, handfpikes, crows, and belaying pins, with John Berry firft encouraging them, by faying, Wc will murder the firft bugger that offers to oppofe us. Mr. Dunlop juft then came out of the cuddy, and I myfelf not having time to get either piftols or any- dcfenfive arms, run in between the mutineers and the pri- foners. What with the force of them all running upon me, and the blow I received from John Berry's marlin- fpike, I fell down amongft their feet, and was huftlcd forward to the waift before I could recover myfelf; but upon my getting up, I faw the mutineers breaking the lock. They then, by order of John Berry, gave three cheers, he faying they had got the day. They then went below, unfhipped the ladders, let down all the ports, pointed the two foremoft guns aft, and handed up the ihot, and declared, if any violent meafures were propofed, they would break open the magazine. At that time Mr. Craig came on board, when Mr. Dunlop and the reft of the officers agreed to let them alone until fuch time as wc had it in our power to get between them and the maga- zine, as they feemed to be then quiet. Mr. Dunlop then called a pafl'age-boat, and took leave of us, as I imagined, to go to Canton. At this time the people were quiet, and fiiid they would go to their duty. At half paft three o'clock the commodore's boat came along-fide; but before this, the ringleaders came aft, in a daring manner infifting upon terms; and John Berry, Abraham Lilly, and An- thony Garland, infifted upon having Mr. Clayton, a mid- fhipman, turned before the maft, that they might have him to murder; but upon Abraham Lilly's faying fo, John. Berry faid, I ./ill not take his life; I will break one leg 10 an5 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 349 and one arm •, and as for Mr. Law, I will cut one of his ^ *J^^ p« ears off. When the commodore's boat came, Mr. Raitt, ' — '— ' his chief officer, read a letter, the contents infifling upon December. the ringleaders being given np; upon which the muti- neers put thcmfelves in a poflure of dclcnce, and fvvorc no boats (Kould come along-lide. They immediately fome of them went to break open the magazine, and began throwing at the boats along-fide and upon the quarter- deck; but the officers and petty oflicers being armed, we made a fally from the quarter-deck, and cut feveral down, with cutlaffes, when they went to the magazine, and found* a warm reception from the third mate, who- was then guarding it with five quarter-maflcrs. The pinnaces all got along-fide, we then took all that were oii the main- deck prifoners, went down upon the gun-deck, hauled up^ the ports; but before we had that done, feveral were hurt by fhot hove by the mutineers. However, by five o'clock, wc had all our foremaft-mcn prifoners in the cuddy, when Tohn Berry, Abraham Lilly, Anthony Garland, William Conner, Robert Skinner, John Haflings, Thomas Lang- ford, Henry Ladfon, Timothy Kelly, and James Keiff, were fent prifoners on board the commodore. Samuel Walker, Thomas Paterfon, Oliver Butler, and James Brown, were the only men not concerned. Queffions aiked Mr. M'CullocH- Court. What terms were demanded by the prifoners? A7if'wer, Anthony Garland infifted upon grog that day and liberty ; he likcwife demanded Mr. Clayton midfliip- man to be turned before the maft, becaufe he had on that day nearly got him a flogging. Abraham Lilly threatened to- ^ ■ ■ 350 A VOYAGE TO THE c " v^ '* ^° murder the faicl midfliipman ; John Berry fuid he would break one leg and one arm. December. Court, Do you know who knocked the irons ofF KeifF? Anfwer. I do not know who knocked the lock off tlic irons, but I faw Berry and Paterfon throw them over- board. » Court. Did you hear any of the people threaten to blow the fliip up? . Anfwer » Yes, but cannot fay who. Court, Were there any locks broke open to enter the la- zarctta? Anfwer, The lock of the fore-fcuttle, but cannot tell who did it. Abraham hilly. Queftion. Did you hear me threaten Mr. Clayton's life ? Anfwer, Yes, I did; you and Garland. Court to the Prifoners. Court. Have you any more queftions to put to the Wit- nefs ? Prifoners Anfwer. No. Mr. Chriflopher Spencer, gunner of the fliip Belvidere, called in, and defired to inform the court of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Qucfti ons NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Qucftions by the Court. Court. Where was you when you heard of the chlcF mate's light being taken from him ? j^nfwer. In the gun-room. Court. Was you upon deck when KeifF was put ia irons ? Atifwer. Yes. Court. Was there any refiftance made, or any abufive language made ufe of, and from whom ? Anfwer. Ladfon and Conner faid that the man flioukl not be put in irons without their going with him. Court. Was you fent by Mr. Dunlop to fccure the gun-room, and did any body attempt to break in, and who ? ' , . Anfwer. None. Court. Were the fliip's company drunk or fober, or what fort of flate were they in on Saturday and Sunday? Anfm^er. A Uttle drunken on Saturday ; all fobcr on Sunday except Kelly. Court. Did you receive any orders from Mr. Craig when Mr. Dunlop left the (hip, and what were they ? Afifwer. To go down and fee the magazine fecured. Court. What fituation were the guns in ? Anfwer. They were in their places. Court, 35 » C H \ P. XV. s. ,^ December, 4" 35* CHAP. XV. 1787 AVOYAGETOTIIE Court. When Mr, Dunlop left the {h'|> '^ere the port«5 down ? De/ember. Anfwer, No, the/ were up. Court to the Prifoners. • Court, Have you any queftions to put to the witnefs ? Prifoners. None. Mr. William Froft, Boatfwain of the Belvidcre, called in and ordered to inform the court of what lie knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Queftions by the Court. ^sjlton. Did you fee the guns pointed aft on Sunday ? Anfwer. Yes the two foremoft. ^ejiion. Were the ports ever lafhed in ? Anfwer. I do not know ; but they were lowered down and hauled up feveral times. ^eftion. What ftate were the fliip's company in on Saturday and Sunday ? Anfwer. On Saturday only Keiff and Payne drunk ; on Sunday between twelve and two only Kelly that ap- peared to be drunk to me. _ - ' ^ejiion. Did you hear any of the people fay they would blow the (hip up ? Anfwer. I heard it, but cannot tell who. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 353 ^eflion. Who appeared to you to be the leading men, ^ ^4" **' and who was mod active in the mutiny on Saturday and Sunday ? Anfwer. On Saturday night Conner and Ladfon, on Sunday Berry and Lilly. 1787. Decemb^. 'I 'n \ ,i\ Court to the Prifoners. Have you any queftions to put to the witnef%? Prifoners Anfwer* No. , ^j Court to Mr. ;Dunlop, chief mate. .or ^ejiion. Did the (hip's company any time on Sunday a/k any terms of you ? Anfwer. They afked if I had releafed Keiff. I an- fwered, No ; that they had done it themfelves. They alfo demanded Mr. Clayton, m|dfhipman, to be, turned before the maft. h Mr. Charles Raitt, chief officer of the Earl Fitzwilliam, called in, and defired to infortti the Court of what he knew of the prifoners and the mutiny. Queftions by the Court to Mr. Raitt. ^efion. What ftate did you find the Belvidere in when you went on bpard with Mr. Dunlpp ? , Anfwer. In a very mutinous ftate ; and the firft thing that made me believe they were, was their ordering my boat to put off inftantly from along-fide. ^ejtion. Did you fee them armec} to keep any beats off? Anfwer. Yes ; but not at firft. ^ . Z z ' _; ^efion. •I- I!! 354 C H A P. XV. <■ « ' Pecember. A VO Y A G E T O T H E ^eftion. Did they refufe to give the ring^adcrs up when you told them you came with thfe commodore's orders ? Anfwer. They refufed to a man, and faid they would fooner die. L^rry in particular faid he would light the ihip as long as her fides fluck together ; took ofF his cap, and gave three cheers. When I was telling him the con- fequence, Ladfon replied, he could only be hanged j as to flogging, he did not mind it. ^eftion. Did the people feem drunk or fober ? Anfwer Perfe«aly fober and very deliberate, I did not fee one drunk. Queftion by Henry Ladfon to the Witnefs. §iueflion. I wifli to know where I was when I made that anfwer ? Anfwer, On the upper-deck on the chock (larboard fide of the deck. When they found the boats coming, they armed themfelves with round (hot and double-headed (hot ; called. Stand by and divide yourfelves, the boats are coming on both fides. The Prifoners upon their defence. yohn Berry y Have you any perfbn to call on your de- fence, or to fpeak to your charader ? Anfwer. No. Abraham Lilly ^ Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your charadter ? Anfwer, No» II - Htnry NORTH WEST COAST Ot AMERICA. 355 I'jiHenry Ladfitiy Have you any pefTon to call oh your ^ \^ **♦ defence, or to fpeak to your charader ? . ti — -w Anfuoer. I was not on the fore-hatchway when Mr. De«mber. Dunlop fpoke from the upper-deck. ui James Keiff^ Have you any perfon to call on your de- fence, or to fpeak to your charader ? Anjisoer, I deny taking the candle from Mr. Dunlop but to hold it. Anthony Garland^ Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. I am not guilty of going on the fore-hatches, nor with the (hot, nor with taking the man out of irons. Mr. Donaldfon, Mr. Young, and Mr. Perry, will fpeak to my character. Thofe gentlemen not prefent. Robert Skinner, Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your chara^er ? Anfwer, No. Thomas Langford^ Have you any perfon to call on your defence, or to fpeak to your character ? Anfwer. Can get a charader in the fleet. William Conner ^ Have you any perfon to call in your defence, or to fpeak to your charadter ? Anfwer, Says he was in liquor, as an excufe for his condud. Timothy Kelly, Have you any perfon to call in your de- fence, or to fpeak to your charadter ? Anfwer, Pleads drunken nefs. Z z 2 John 35^ A VaYA6/E TO THE c H^ ^' yoha Hafiings, Have you any perfbn to call in your w / » dercnce, or to fpeak to your charafter ? Dumber. Anhoer, They were running forward with cutlafles ; I took up a ftiot to defend myfclf. Captain Greer gives him a good charader till this mutiny. Adjourned to Saturday the 15th inftant at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. Saturday, 15th December 1787. The Court being refumed, PRESENT: Captains, JAMES DUNDAS, Prefident. Alex* Montgomery. Joseph Huddart. J. H. Dempster. James Monro. Henry Churchill. George Blachford. W** Hardcastle. David Tolme. George Millett. Richard Penn'-ll, William Storey. Philip Dundas. John Dennis. John Paiba. Charles Lindegren. Thb NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. m- The. Court having gone through the evidence, and ^ "v! ^* afked the prifoners what they had to fay for themfelves ; '- ■»■■ -J. it has not appeared that there has been the lead caufe for December, murmur amongft the (hip's company, either for ill ufage from any one officer or petty officer in the fhip ; that this daring mutiny has arofe from a fpirit that prevailed, that they were on board of a merchantman, where, accord- ing to their own expreffions, they would not meet with due punifliment ; that it alfo appears, that on Sun- day, the fecond day of the mutiny, the prifoners were all fober and deliberate but one man, Kelly, and who pleaded drunkennefs ; the others never attempting any defence of that fort, or faying any thing in their own vindication. We therefore are of opinion that this daring mutiny, had it not been immediately fupprefled by about eighteen boats manned and armed from the Company's fhips, the con« fequence might have been dreadful, not only to that (hip ;: but this fpirit fpreading to the fleet in general, where there are above three thoufand of his Majefty's fubjedls,, the greater number of which might have, by joining the mutineers, committed depredations againft the inhabitants, and put a flop to the Company's trade, with the lofs of many lives: We therefore are of opinion, that fevere and immediate corporal punifhment be inflided upon the ring- leaders ; and that Berry and Lilly at different fhips of the fleet receive. Berry one hundred, and Lii/jf feventy lafhes ; that the rcfl be punifhcd on board the Belvidere, and that Ladfon and Keiff receive fixty ladies ; Garland^ Skinner^ and Conner forty-eight lafKcs ; Haflings and Lang ford twenty-four-lafhes ; that Kelly^^ as Icafl culpable, receive I twelve 35l A V O Y A G E T O T H E c " V? '* twelve lafhes. The latter recommended to mercy by the Court. (Signed) d:£^ J. DUNDAS. A. MONTGOMEHV. J. HUDDART. J. H. Dempster. James Monro. H^ Churchill. George Blachford. W" Hardcastle. D" TOLME. Geo. Millett. Rich" Pennell. W" Storey. Ph. Dundas. John Dennis. John Paiba< Charles Linosgren. John l^erry and Abraham Lilly, after having the laft of their punifhment along-iide of the Bclvidere, were liberated, and taken on board, when they went down on the gun-deck, and were fpiriting up the feamento mutiny again ; on which, and being infolent to captain Greer on the quarter>deck, he ordered tl^em on fhore at Dones Ifland, with their clot.ies, &c. which is the ifland the Englifh are permitted to walk on, and within a cable's length of the fhips. On '/%M^'//<->ut^,fr<)Ay/./f,^A/n/f Ji.^^iun,/,/,n^ . NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 359 Off die Bdvidere-a arrival in England, they brought an ^ %y^ ''* tdienl^gi^ tliei^ dlptain in the court of Comaion Picas, '-, - j ; -^ Wl^h'^vi^as tried <^ the 1 5th Deceptiber 1 788, before Lord Dt^ttlicu Loughborough and a fpet^ial jiiry, when a verdid was given ill favour oz captain Greer. Bbrry had been an old offender in the navy aiid on board the Grahby Eaft rncfiaman, captain Johnfbn,, : 90-0Mafter^yarrival at Canton I took,an;oppoctunity df pacing a vi^t to Mr. Cox, an Bng^Ai ge^tle^an mD- cfent there ; jiuid I was much.rur|>ri^ to C^ my old friend: 7yaana, whoni the reader may recoiled I met with ar •|^<^, on toy, fe^tMid vifit to t^s SandMfsch^ I^nds. Ty- aii^ iiinoiediatelyirecbUe^tej.W fenubty was be j^fie6ted vdth the interview, ||)«t he clafped hkaums about ^aae ilk the moil afie^ng manner, reclioed his head; on fP^Jhoulder, /tears ran unheeded down hi^ cheeks^,. an$]lt it was Com^ time .before ^ became calim ^d qqmpQiid enough to utter tke name of his old acquaintance Popote; hut when the fu'ft tratifports of j^, wqiiph fo Amexpededi a meeting excited, had a little fubfided, he feemed hap|^ in making every enquiry that could pleaie or afFord fatit- fadion refpe6ling his friends at the Sandwich Illalkda>;. andl on my enquiring h0w he came toChina, I found that captain; Mean hiul touched at A^o^i in hiftpail^e^omthc eqaft: " America to ,C^a, and Tyaanaexpreil^^ a^^fi^ to icompapy thp cagmn tO; Prfitane,^ h^ i^MmkJmi on^ ■''■-'■/^■'.?:iN«rdl m ■,lis^;jiKfi'SsaK*' 36o AVOYAGETOTHE ^ " v! ^" l^oard and brought him to Macao ; at which place he left ^— n— ' him in the care of Mr. Rofs, his chief mate, of whom Dewmber. Tyaana was remarkably fond. They remained fome time at Macao ; and Tyaana was generally indulged in walking about wherever his inclination led him ; and on thefe oc- cafions he conftantly wore a beautiful feathered cap and cloak, and carried a fpear in his hand to denote himfelf to be a perfon of grandeur and diftindion j nor did he like to wear any other drefs, except the maro, which is always worn by the Sandwich iflanders about the waift : fuch an appearance however being fcarcely modeft in a civilized country, Mr. Rofs got a light fattin waiftcoat and a pair of trowfers made for him, and which he was prevailed with to wear, but not without great fecming reludlance at firft, but with which he was better pleafed after they became familiar and habitual to him. Tyaana, though no frofeffed fafifi^ would frequently go to the places of divine worftiip at Macao, and always obfervcd the manner, motions, and attitudes of the con- gregation, {landing or kneeling, and as they did^ fodidh^, appearing very ftudioilis to imitate them, by an exa£l <5©nf6rmity to all their adions, geftures, and behaviour. - His noble and generous fpirit vifibly difcoverfed itfelf on various occafions. One time he went up to an brahge ftall, and picking otit half a dozen oranges, gave the womin who fold them a couple of nails for them, which ill h!s eftimation was a very ample, and indeed a fuperabundailt compenfation for her oranges j nails in his country being things of very gr^at and precious value ; obferving at the fame time tlikt he had paid her for the oraages and made • - ' her NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. her a preftnt befide ; but the good woman was by no means fatisfied with fuch payment, and was about to raife a dif- turbance, by a loud, rude, offcnfive clamour of her not being paid ; when fome gentlemen luckily happening to be with Tyaana at the time, they readily pacified her com- plaint, by paying her to her fatisfadtion. When the Queen Charlotte arrived in Macao Roadsy, Mr. Rofs and Tyaana often went with captain Dixon to Wampoa. During this ihort paflagc Tyaana often expreffed his diflike of the Chinefe, particularly that cuftom of flat- ting up and excluding the women from the fight of all ftrangers. And he feemed likewife to have contracted a prejudice, as well againft the form, fliape, and manner of their perfons, as againft their pradices and cuftoms ; and carried it even to hatred and antipathy, infomuch that he was once going to throw the pilot over-board for fome trivial, matter of offence. 361 CHAP. XV. ^-, . 1.^ December. m When he arrived at Canton he was particularly noticed by the gentlemen^ of the Englifh fadory, from whom he received invitations, and every mark of civility which could teftify their refped: and regard to his rank and dignity ; nor was he lefs careffed and admired by all dalles of people at Canton. « A CAPTAIN Taflcer, oFthe Milford, from Bombay, gave a fumptuous entertainment to a number of Englifii gentle- men, and of courfe Tyaana was among the reft. After dinner, being upon deck, a number of poor Tartars, in fmall fampans, were about the (hip afking alms, as is cuftomary there on fuch occafions of entertainment and 3 A feftivity. 3<5a A VOYAGE TO THE / ^ " v^ '* f'-'ftivity. Tyaana immediately enquired what they wanted, ^- — p- ' and being told that they were beggars who came to fup- December. plicate the rcfufe of the table, he exprelTed great concern, faying that he was very forry to fee any pcrfons in want of food, and that it was quite a new fccne to him ; for that they had no people of that defcription at Atoui ; he fcenicd to be under great impatience to procure them relief, and became a very importunate foliciter on their be- half. 'I'he captain's generous difpolition readily co-oj)erated with his importunities, and he ordered all the broken vidtuals, being a large quantity, to be brought upon deck, and Tyaana had the diftribution of it among the poor Tartars, which he did, obferving the moft equal, impartial divifion he - was able to make of it ; and his pleafure and fatisfa<^ion in the performance of that tafk were not lefs vifible in his countenance than his adions. I ASKED him if he was willing to go to Pretane ; but he told me that he expe i All this morning we had light winds from the South Fridays. Eaft, with fine weather. At three in the afternoon the tbb-tlde having made ftrong, we weighed and came to fail, Queen Charlotte in company. At eight in the evening came-to with the fmall bower in five fathoms water, muddy bottom. At fix a breeze at North North Eaft, weighed and came to fail. At eight pafted through the Boca Tigris with a fine breeze at North Weft, 366 CHAP. XVI. » .^ 1788. February. Friday g. Saturday 9. Sunday 10. A VOYAGE TO THE Weft, with which we were ftanding towards Macao. At noon a breeze at Weft North Weft, with fine pleafant weather, a number of Chinefe boats along-fide, with vaft quantities of oyfters, which we bought very cheap. At nine in the morning fent the whale-boat on board a ftiip at an- chor. She proved to be the Diana, country ftiip, from India for Wampoa, who had been miffing fome time. Moderate breeze from the Weft, with fineclear weather. At two in the afternoon the wind hauled round to the fouthward. At feven in the evening, the ebb being down, we anchored with the fmall bower in eight fathoms water, muddy bottom. At midnight a moderate breeze at Eaft South Eaft. At two in the morning a breeze at North Eaft, and the ebb having made, wc weighed and came to fail. At eight very light airs, and variable. At half paft eight came- to with the fmall bower in five fathoms water. At ten a moderate breeze at South. At half paft elevea weighed and came to fail. Calm, with fair weather. At two in the afternoon a light breeze from the Weft by South, ftanding down to- wards Macao. At five Macao bore North Weft by Weft, diftant about four leagues, and the Wefternmoft part of the Grand Ladrone South by Eaft one quarter Eaft, diftant about eight leagues; the iiland of Patoe, which is a fmall ifland, lying juft to the Weftward of the Grand Ladrone, bearing South three quarters Eaft, diftant about feven leagues. A moderate breeze from the South Eaft by Eaft, with which wc were ftanding through between the Patoe and the iflands lying to the Weftward. At half paft five, hoifted in the whale-boat and fceured her, and placed NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 367 placed the Sandwich Illand canoes on the quarter in room ^ "^J ^' of the whale-boat. At this time the pilot left us ; I fent by »■ ^ ^J -^ him a letter for Henry Browne Efq. preddent of the coun- February, cil at Canton, (ignifying the (ituation and good condition "° "'"°" of the King George and Oi.'t-n Charlotte; alfo a letter of advice for Mr. John Etc^e?, or the commander of the Prince of Wales or Princefs Royal, to be delivered on ei- ther of their arrivals. At half paft feven the breeze having failed, and the tide fetting to the Weftward, we came-to with a fmall bower in fix fathoms water, Queen Char- lotte in company, the Grand Ladrone bearing from South Eaft half Eaft to South Eaft half South, diftant about five leagues, the ifland of Patoe South Eaft by Eaft three leagues. At midnight calm and very hazy. At three in the morning a light breeze fprung up at North North Eaft, weighed and made fail. Queen Charlotte in company. At half an hour after nine in the forenoon the Soutli Eaft point of the Grand Ladrone bore North Eaft half North, diftant about twenty-five miles, from whence I took my de- parture: Grand Ladrone latitude 22° 2' North, longitude 246" 4/. -^^ ^ • *' The nth, 12th, and 13th February, for the moft From sim- part fair weather. A nimiber of the Ihip's company ill Thuriy'ay''i4. with fluxes, and others with fevers, owing (in the opinion of the furgeon) chiefly to their hard drinking whilft at Wampoa. On the 1 2th faw many dark-coloined gulls and fome boobies, all white except tlic tips of their wings, which were black. At half paft levcn in the morn- ing of the 1 3 th faw a liiil in the North Eaft quarter ftanding to the Southward. At nine the ftrange fail being near 8 enough 368 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ xvf "*' ^o"gh to fee our colours, we hoifled them; the ftranger *- - '-* anfweredus by fliewing her's, which we took to be Pruilian; FromSunday latitude obfcrvcd 18" 01' North, latitude account 18° 09' day'u " North, courfe South, 3° 00' Weft, diflance from the Grand Ladrone fifty-four miles; longitude account 246° 04' Weft, longitude obfervation 246° 35' 15'' Weft, variation 0° o'. On the 1 4th inftant fpoke with the fliip which we had been within fight of all day, which proved to be a veflel formerly called the Lowden, Britifti built, and about fif- teen months ago fitted out in the river Thames, from whence flie failed under Imperial colours to Kin^ George's Sound on the North Weft coaft of America, and from thence to Macao in China. She is now called the Impe- rial Eagle, commanded by captain Berkley, and manned by Britifti fubjeds. She at this time failed under Portu- guefe colours, and was bound for the Mauritius. Our people were now all upon the recovery; the Queen Char- lotte in company. Friday 15. Qn Friday the 15th light winds from Eaft by South. Saturday 16. On thc 1 6th a moderate breeze, with the wind at North Eaft; at eleven, judging myfelf pretty near the Macclesfield flioal, hove to, and founded with fixty fathoms line ; no- ground. At midnight founded again with fixty fathoms line; no ground. At one in the morning a vaft number of porpoifes about. Between midnight and feven found- ed every hour without getting ground, fometimes with a hundred fathoms of line. At feven o'clock, judging my- felf far enough to thc Southward, I altered my courfe to South Weft by South, with a view of making Pulo Sapata, the wind at North Eaft, a two knot breeze. I fuppofed, NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. fuppofed, from our not ftriking foundings on the Macclef- ^ ^^^ ^' field, that it does not extend fo far to the Weftward as > — — » - laid down in the charts, and that we paffed juft to the February. Weftward of the bank. I fuppofed this, from our being ^"^'^'^ '^' pretty certain of our longitude; having at 2" 30° paft mid- day got fome very good obfervations of the fun and moon, the fun Weft of the moon, which gave the longitude at that time 24.5° 54.' Weft of Greenwich. Saw many birds .^ of the booby kind. At eight in the morning hailed the Queen Charlotte. Captain Dixon informed me that his vefTel made fome water when ftie lay along, three inches per nour; his furgeon and cooper's mate very ill; our people all on the recovery. On the 17th I took my furgeon on Sunday 17. board to give his advice or afliftance, and took with me about ten or twelve gallons of Port wine for the ufe of the Queen Charlotte's fick ; faw a few birds of the tern kind, a number of flying-fifh, and fome dolphins. About the i8th Monday .8. .1 found, by comparing our compaffes with the Queen Charlotte's azimuth compafs, half a point difference, ours fhewing half a point more to the Southward than her's did. I believe the azimuth compafs to be the moft exad, and allowed accordingly. At half paft three in the afternoon I returned on board, hoifted the whale-boat in, and made fail. Our furgeon was of opinion, that the people on ^ board the Queen Charlotte were in a fairway of recovery, and that there was no neceffity of removing them into this fhip, as I intended, for the purpofe of having tlie furgcon's allift- ance. Captain Dixon informed me that the Qiiccn Char- lotte made about three inches of water an hour. She foon after ieavinoj the Ladrone made one and two inches, and as her leak increafed, I thought it right to ftay by her 3 B until '% 370 A VOYAGE TO THE 1788. February. Wedaef. 20. ^ xvt. ^' "^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^°^ ^^ turned out. Pulo Sapata at noon bore South 5i°Weft,diftant 285 miles. On the 20th we had frefh gales with cloudy weather, and the wind being North by Eaft, I fleered South Weft half Weft, to avoid the Vigia rock. At a quarter paft ten faw the ifland of Sapata, bearing South • Weft one quarter South, diftant about eleven miles. Hauled to the South South Weft to go to the Eaftward of the ifland. A fmall hummock rock in one with Sapata, bear- ing from Sapata North Weft by Weft, three quarters Weft,, and diftant from Sapata about three or four miles. This ifland is perfedly bold on the North and Eaft fldes, the South and Weft not fo fafe, owing to the fmall hummock rock, and a few breakers. It is well named, for it is ex-f adly fliaped like a fhoe, and no perfon can be deceived in it, for it feems to bear the fame likenefs on all fides, not a tree or bufti to be feen on it; but there were boobies^ in great abundance, the ifland being made white by their dung, Thuifdayai. On the 2ift vvc fliaped our courfe about South Weft by - Weft, thinking to make Pulo Condore at about five or fix leagues to the Eaftward of the ifland; from thence we fleered for Pulo Timoan and Pulo Cloz. About two in the afternoon faw another fmall ifland bearing about North Weft by North , and diftant about four or five leagues. I imagined this to be one of the fmall iflands laid down by Dalrymple, lying to the Weft ward of Pulo Sapata. He alfo lays feveral down to the Eaftward of Sapata; none of which I found to be there. At three in the afternoon Pulo Sapata bore North Eaft, diftant eleven miles. With a fine fteady gale at North Eaft, we fleered South Weft half Weft, four knots per f. S 1* 371 CHAP. XVI. *— s^ ^ i7fiS. February. Friday 22. Monday zji NORTH WEST COAST OF AIVIERICA. per hour; this South Weft half Weft by o\ir compafs being nearly South Weft by Weft true. On the 2 2d our people continued very ill; feveral of them in fluxes. On 25th faw the iftands of Aramba bearing from North Eaft by Eaft to Eaft by North, our diftance from the North end about eight leagues. At fix Pulo Domer bore South Eaft. On the 26th, a light breeze from North North Eaft, TuefJayje. with clofe hazy weather, fteering to the South half Weft, two knots and a half per hour, foundings from thirty-three to twenty-eight fathoms, over a bottom of dark muddy fand and fome fmall fliells. At captain Dixon's rcqueft, I fent my furgeon on board to give his afliftance to Mr. Lowther, furgeon of the Queen Charlotte, who conti- nued very ill. The Queen Charlotte's Peruvian bark be- ing very indifferent, I fent them a fupply of ours, which was much better. CaptainDixon returned with the boat, and was alfo much indifpofed with the flux, which was very pre- valent among us. We faw the land making in fcparate fmall iflands, extending from South South Weft to South Weft, by Weft half Weft, the Southernmoft land the ifland of Pulo* Panfang, and diftant about eight leagues^. Queen Charlotte in company. Latitude oh fcrved 1° 11'' North; light breezes from North Eaft, with exceeding hot fultry weather. On the 27th the peak of Linging made its appearance through Wednef. 27. the haze, bearing Weft Norrli Weft half Weft, I fuppofe twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. This peak, or rather two peaks, are very remarkable, making very much like two glafs-. houle-chimnies, quite high and clofc together; the North' Eafternmoftof the two appearing rather rounder at the top than the other, and of nearly an equal height : at the B 2 lame m 'I 37* CHAP. XVI. ^■l — -- iiiV 17819. February. WcJnef. 27. A IfOYAGE TO THE fame time tlic largcft, and I think the moft Eaftcrly of them bore North Weft by Weft half Weft, diftant about eight or nine leagues; the ifland of Taya South Weft three quarters Weft, diftant eight or nine leagues, depth of water eighteen to fifteen fathoms dark grey fand ; law the clufter of illands, called the Three Illands, bearing South, diftant about five leagues. Inftead of three iflands, we found iflands and rocks, upwards of a dozen, the largcft^- of the clufter of iflands and rocks, and which is nearly the Northern and Weftern extreme of them, bore from South South Eaft half Eaft to South by Eaft half Eaft, diftant three leagues; fome fmall rocks above water lying a little to the Northward and Weftward of this ifland South by Weft, Pulo Taya North Weft three quarters Weft, feven or eight leagues diftant. We run along the Weft fide of the clufter Three Iflands, at the diftance of three or four miles from them in fifteen or fixteen fathoms water, over a dark grey fandy bottom. Thefe iflands are a moderate height, very woody, and appear to be (afe and bold too; there are fome fandy beaches, which I dare fay af- ford plenty of turtle, and no appearance of any breakers any where about the ifles, except at a little diftance from the points of the fmall rocky ifles. At half paft eleven the Queen Charlotte hoifted her colours half maft high ; on this we iliortened fail, fpokeher, and found her furgeon dead. At noon clufter Three Iflands bore from North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft to South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the neareft ifland about three leagues; the fmall iflands lying off the North end of Banca, bearing South South Weft, diftiant ten or twelve leagyes, and Pulo Taya about North North Weft, diftant ten or twelve leagues. I make the Northern and Weftern extreme of the clufter Three Iflands to lie in the t NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 373 the latitude i* 4' South, and longitude from lunar ob- ^ "yj^ ** fervation 254° 34' Weft, and latitude of the South ex- treme of faid clufter 1° 17' South, and longitude 254° 28' Weft. Thofe iflands fecm to ftretch in a South by Eaft and North by Weft diredionof the fame fniall roeky iflandSj but may lie a little out of that direction to the Eaft ward and Wert ward. 1788. February. Wednef. 27. The 29th we had a fine fteady breeze at North North Eaft,. Fridiy a;^. and ftcercd to South by Weft, four knots and a half per hour, - the depth of water varying as we inereafed our diftance from the clufter Three Iftands, from twelve to twenty-one fathoms. At four the Southernmoft of the clufter Three Iftands bore North Norili Eaft three quarters Eaft, diftant about eight K .^gucs ; tliis bearing and diftance, and Mount Monopin South half Eaft, diftant about twelve leagues. This bearing and diftance by me, places the Mount almoft ' exactly in the fame fituation that captain King places it in» We now altered the courfe to South South Weft and South Weft by South, thinking before dark to get the Mount to bear about South Eaft by Eaft, or Eaft South Eaft, diftant fix or feven leagues, as, according to captain King's ac- ^ count, with that bearing and diftance, we fhould have been ^> clear to the Weft ward of the ftioal called Frederic Hen- dric, and then we could have hauled up for Banca = Straits; but we could not accoraplifh this point before dark, therefore I thought it moft prudent to ftand off and M on during the night, and to enter the Straits in the morning. At fix in the evening Monopin bore South South Eaft, diftant about eight or nine leagues, and the point of Banca that forms the Eaftern entrance into the Straits South three quarters Eaft, ten or eleven leagues; the m-, lo 31-^ iftands t if 374 CHAP. XVI. 1788. February Friday 29. SaturJay. M.irch I. A VOYAGE TO THE iflands lying off the North end of Banca Eaft half North, fix or feven leagues. We had foundings in twenty-one fa- thoms, dark grey fand. Saw a ftrange fail to the Northward (landing to the Southward ; fuddenly (hoalcd our water to thirteen fiithoms, (landing to the North Weft, and at half part nine fuddenly (hoaled the water to feven and a half, Toft muddy bottom. This (hoal water I fuppofed to be the Frederic Hendric (hoal, or a (hoal laid down in Hamilton Moore's account, lying near the Sumatra (hore. A FINE breeze from the North Weft, with rather fqually weather and fome ftiowcrs of rain, fleering from Eaft by South to Eaft by North, four knots per hour along the Banca coaft, at the diftance of about four miles from the (Tiorc. At half paft twelve, we (hoaled our water to feven fa- thoms, and there being an appearance of a bank lying to the Southward of us, hauled up Eaft by North, and juft run along its edge in (ix and a half and feven fathoms water, this appearance of a bank on our ftarboard hand, and the (Kore of Banca on our larboard, the Banca fhore diftant about four miles, and the bank diftant a quarter of a mile. Soon after hauling nearer the Banca (hore, we deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, and then edged away again to the South by Eaft. About one I got fight or fome rocks and a dry white fand-bank, bearing about Eaft by South half South ; we hauled to the Eaft by North, and pafTed between Banca and this (hoal, in never lefs than feven fathoms water over a fandy bottom. At half paft one Mount Monopin bore North Weft by North, and near about the middle of the fhoal South Eaft by South, our diftance from the Mount about five leagues I judged, and from the fea-fliore under the Mount about 8 ,^ nine MORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. nine or ten miles, the (hoal diftant about a mile or a mile and a half, our depth of water at this time fifteen fa- thoms fandy bottom. The dry part of the llioal appears to be about a quarter of a mile long, trending Eaft and Weft; it feems narrow; but the coloured water appeared two or three miles to run from the Eaft and Weft ends in an Eaft and Weft dire<5lion. The flioal I fuppofc to be en- tirely covered at high water, I think a peifedlly fafe paftlige may be made into thofe ftraits, by keeping the Ranca fliore on board, and paffing between it and this ftioal. Indeed I would prefer it rather than run down on the Su- matra fliore, where {h(TOld the winds hang Eaftcrly, it may prevent a fhip for feme time in entering the Straits. When we had Monopin Hill bearing North North' !Eaft half North, fuw a large town on Banca in the fame direction clofe down to the fea-fide; at the fame time faw four large proas coming towards this town from towards the Straits of Malacca, and one going towards the Straits. At two in the afternoon the tide began to run to the South Eaft through the Straits at South, a light breeze from the North Eaft with fmall rain, and Mount Monopin bore North Weft half Weft, feven or eight leagues diftance, and the North^moft part of Banca in fight North Weft by Weft half N On the 2d March we pafled by a Dutch (hip lying at anchor. She appeared to be a man of war of twenty guns. At four in the afternoon the firft point on the Sumatra Ihore South Eaft half South, five or fix miles, and the Southernmoft point of Banca Eaft half South, four or five leagues ; Mount Permifang, on the iiland of Banca, North Weft fix or feven leagues. Hove-to for the fhip that was ftanding after us, and at a quarter jjHift four we fpoke her, and found her to be the fhip Lanfdown, captain Storey com- mander, from China, bound to London. Monday 3. On 3d Marcli light winds and very variable, with clofe fultry weather. At half paft one weighed and ftood over to the Sumatra ftiore ; the wind very faint, and a ftrong tide fetting to the South Eaft, which drove us very near the other (hoal, that lies between the ifland of Lufpura and the firft point of Sumatra ; at the fame time anchored in five fathoms, a little to the South Eaft ; the Lanfdown anchored in three fa- thoms and a quarter. Soon after a breeze fpringing up from the North Eaft, we weighed and ftood to the Nortli North Weft, as did the Queen Charlotte and Lanfdown, to clear the North point of the above-mentioned ftioal, and at five we pafll'd over it in three fathoms water; as did the Queen Charlotte ; the Lanfdown in going over ftruck and ftuck faft, and made a fignal of diftrefs. We immediately anchored in five fathoms water, muddy bottom ; as did the Char- lotte, and fent our boats with kedge anchors and hawfers «¥ to NORTH WEST COAST OF AMI RICA. ^:7 to their afliftancc. When at anchor, the firft point on the c » a p. XVJ. 17 Sumatra fhore bore North North Weft about two or three leagues ; the Southernmoft point on the illandof Sumatra miku. in fight. At half paft nine the Lanfdown made the '"' "^ ^' fignal for more afliftance ; hoifted out our yaul, and fcnt four hands and an officer to their afliftance. At half paft ten the yaul returned, having got her oft" without receiv- ing any damage. From this time to the 8th nothing par- ticular occurred; when the Lanfdown almoft out of fight. Latitude obfervcd 4° 50' South; latitude per bearing, anil diftance of the Sifters, 4" 54' South ; longitude per ditto 253° 44' from Greenwich. On the 9th, ftrong gales" and fqually weather, with Sunday 9. thunder and ftiarp lightning : down topgallant-yards and Aruck the topgallant-mafts. At midnight frcfti gales at Weft North Weft; loft fight of the Queen Charlotte; fuppofe fhe was driven off". At daylight faw the Queen Charlotte to the Eaftward ; ftie had drove during the gale about two leagues ; got under way to join us. The loth Monday 10; a light breeze from the Northward, with cloudy weather. The Queen Charlotte in company ; the Lanfdown barely in iight. Several of our people ill with fluxes. On this day at one o'clock in the morning Thomas Tucfjay n. Paff"ord, armourer's mate, departed this life, and at fix o'clock in the evening was buried, after having read the ufual funeral fervice over the body. Hoifted out the whale-boat, and fent her with an officer and fix hands on fliore, to look about the reef, by which thefe iflands are *" furrounded, for turtle. Latitude obferved 5° j South ; 3 C latitude 378 A VOYAGE TO THE ^ XVI. ^' latitude per bearing, and diftance of the Sifters, 5* ;' South; longitude per ditto 253° 50' Weft. 1788. March. Wedncf. 12. On the 1 2th light winds and clear. At three o'clock in the morning the whale-boat returned without any fuccefs ; having feen no figns of any turtle, nor any kind of fiuit on ftiore ; but faw great flocks of wild pigeons. lUtCity ly On the 13th light winds and cloudy. Saw lying in the road two Dutch fhips and three Dutch ketches. Came to anchor. Soon after an Englifh cutter came along-fide, in which was Mr. Wood, late commander of the Charlotte floop packet from the Prelidency of Bombay, with intel- ligence for any Englifti Company's fhips from China. This gentleman had unfortunately lo'} his packet on a fmali ifland near Cracatoo ; and after getting on ihore, was attacked and beat ofF by a country pirate, who, after plundering her, burnt the veflel down to tlie water's edge. Notwithftanding l lis gentleman's misfortunes, he has b en lucky enoigh in executing his commifTion fo far, with a boat fpan d him from the Lafcelles, captain Balin- tinc ; as no one fliip has pafTed without being fpoke with an(' receiving the intelligence. Before he met with, and go this cutter from the Lafcelles, he did his bufmefs with a r ^all canoe that he found on tlie ifland on which his vefTel was loft. At noon ftandin;^ on towards the roads with a gentle breeze from the Nortliward ; came to anchor, Queen Ttiicy 14 Charlotte in company. On the 14th the ifland of Java extending from South Eaft by Eaft to South, diftant from • . g the NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 37") ff A I' \V1. i:s8. Man li. SiUikJay i;. the neareft part of it five or fix leagues. On the 1 5th tbe Lanfdown anchored in thefe roads for the purpofe of fill- ing water. Sent a boat with a party of men to the North Ifletociit wood; alfo {<;nt our fiek people on fliore to take a walk. Served turtle to the fliip's company. On the 1 6th completed our wooding and watering ; having filled Sunday 16. thirty-feven puncheons, five butts, and one hogiiiead, and got on board one boat-load of wood. This evening hoifted in the boats, laflied all our water-cafks, and in every rc- lpe^ APPENDIX. m TABLE I. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland' I (lands to the Sandwich Illands. 'lime. 17S6. I'cb. 19, J Noon. 5 20 21 22 23 24 25 aft 27 28 Marcli 1 2 3 5 6 •. / 8 9 10 II Latitude South, 55 S5 54 3-4 S3 52 53 5i 52 52 50 48 45 44 44 44 43 43 37 36 27 04 19 5^ 23 oc 31 52 ac 00 32 3G 47 41 45 58 3c 2C 5" 23 33 Longitude Weft. 83 83 81 81 81 8a 83 84 83 84 82 81 22 36 54 19 33 '3 44 09 c6 59 >5 84 32 05 80 43 79 53 79 49 fiO 40 82 12 82 10 82 51 Variation IvjiL 22 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 50 1 S3 '9 47 <7 32 15 02 • I I 12 41 W. N. W. to N. N. W. Stiong gales and fqually. N. W. Strong gales, and Ajually, and a heavy fea. Ditto. Ditto, ditto, with rain. N. W. Frefh breezes, and clear. Cleaned fliip. Variable. Squally, with rain. Weft to N. b. W. Strong gales, with rain, and a heavy fea from the northward. N. W. Frefh gales, with rain. Variable. Strong gales, with rain. N. W. Strong gales, ami fqually, and a heavy fea from the N. W. Diito. Strong gale?, and fqually, with rain. P>iirnl a piece of drii: vvnoil. W. N. W. l''relh l)rcc/.cs, and clear. Weft. Frcfli gales, and clnudv. Ditto. Ditto, ditto, and fqually. W. N. W. Freth gales, and ftjually, with drizzling rain, and a heavy lea trom ti.e weftward. Weft. Frelh breezes, and pleafant weather. Cleaned Ihip. W. N. W. Frefli gales, with rain, and a heavy crofs fea. 1 Weft, Light winds, and hazy. - . N. W. Moderate, and ha/.y. Weft. Moderate, and cloudy. Variable. Moderate, and hazy, and a fwell from the S. W. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. [A] !v APPENDIX. •*' TAB LEI. Continued. Route of the King Georg c and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich I{lands. lime. Latitude South. Longitude Well. Variation Ball. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1786. Mar. 12, Noon. 42 53 / 83 02 •5 07 Variable. Moderate, and pleafant. 13 43 C5 84 18 N. W. Moderate, with ftiggy weather. 14 42 47 »4 23 (J Variable. Liglit winds, and ditto, ditto. Ditto. Frcfli brcezeu, and fqually un- fettlcd weather. J5 42 »4 «5 04 16 40 53 85 36 12 ^ I S. W. to N. W. Fi c(h gales, with drizzling i rain. W. S. W. 1\ loderate, and hazy. '7 39 42 8558 ^Variable, hrefh gales, and dark cloudy 18 38 06 86 s^ 10 52] weather, with a long fwcli from the »9 36 555 87 55 II ( Ditto. Light winds, and hazy, and a heavy 57 j fwell from the S. S. W. 20 36 38 88 05 Variable. Light airs, and pleafant wea- ther. Saw a whale. 21 36 '7 88 c7 10 23 Ditto. Light winds, and pleafant weather. 23 35 H 88 46 Weft to South. Moderate, and pleaf:^nt. =^3 34 n 90 00 9 '9 Variable. Light winds, and fair. 24 33 29 90 37 b 14 Ditto. Moderate, and cloudy. 85 33 30 9' 5' Eaft. Moderate, and clear. ^ Ditto. Light winds, and clear. Saw a :6 3« 46 93 23 7 29 fail to the N. W. ftanding to the fouth- ward, but did not fpeak her. 27 30 4*^ 94 2G 7 10 Ditto. Modt^rate and pleafant weather. f 2S ^9 20 95 42 6 Variable. Frefli gale, and pleafant wea- " ther. Saw a tropic bird. 36 Eaft. Frefh breezes, and clear. 29 28 00 96 44 6 ' ♦ 1 Ditto. Frefh gales, and clear pleafant wea- 30 26 38 97 33 ther. Several tropic birds about the (hip. 32 E. S. E. Frefli gales, and clear. 3. ^^5 07 98 33 4 APPENDIX. TABLE I. Continued. Route of die King George and Queen Ciiarlotte from Falkland's Idands to the Sandwich lilands. Time. 17H6. April I, I Noon. ) :. .. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 JO 1 1 f 12 M 15 16 Latitudr South. ^3 85 zi 44 20 21 19 l; 18 07 17 32 17 21 16 48 15 57 1 j* 02 »3 5» 12 13 10 21 8 38 7 04 S »5 Longitud* Weft. no 52 r J 2 0(» '03 39 -Of 28 'OS 51 106 14 106 40 107 15 108 15 108 54 109 23 no 05 no 47 III 25 111 5'J 112 3S Varittion Eill. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 3 4» 3 42 F.aft. A frcfh trade, and plcafant weather. j E. N. K. Moderate and clear. I Eafl. Ditto, ditto. Saw fcveral tropic f birds. 19 I Variable. Light winds, and hazy. Variable. Irefh brcc/cs, and hazy. Saw fcveral tropic birds. N. E. Light winds, and clear. 58 F. N. E. Ditto, ditto, ditto. f N. N. E. Light winds and hazy, with a 50 ' long fwell from the fouthward. Saw a land bird flying about the Hup. N. E. A fine breeze, and pleal'ant weather. ( Ditto. A light breeze, and clear. Many ) tropic birds flying round the Ihip- f Eaft. A fine breeze, and clear, i'aflcd a turtle. Lowered the boat down; and i upon taking of it up, found it to be a dead one. Many tropic and men of war birds about. E. S. E. A frcfh trade, and clear pleafant weather. Eafl. Ditto, ditto, ditto. S. E. A frefh trade and cloudy, with (bowers of rain. r Variable. Moderate and clear. Many J Porpoifes about the fliip. Caught a I turtle, weighing 65 lbs. [Eaft. A frelh trade, and pleafant weather. Pafled many turtle. Numbers of birds about. (U ff Hi It IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4^ i 1.0 I.I I^IM |Z5 1^ Ufi 12.0 IJ4 1.25 II ,4 |,. 6 .4 6" ► <^ y] 7i 7] V*' .^ V c> / /^ Photographic Sciences Corporalion 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSN (716) « 3-4503 ^ m APPENDIX. TABLE I. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from, Falkland's lilands to the Sandwich Ulandsk Time. Laiitudt SbUtb. Longitude Weft. 1786. April 17, J Noon, i ^ 3 07 / 113 22 18 I 89 "3 57 19 20 21 02 North. 1 80 2 40 115 10 115 40 116 09 22 3 33 "6 35 23 4 28 117 ;io '34 5 32 117 4S 25 a6 6 11 Mdderkte brdezes, and cloudy. Many dolpUins and bonitos about the I *'?• J ' {Variabitt Freli bretz^i and ha^y. Caught , feveral boniflos. | (N. N^E. Moderate aad cloudy. Caught * a turtle. I N. £. A frefh, trade, ahd pleafant weather. 55 ^ Caught (ix turtle ; ffsnt two of them on board the Q^een Charlotte. S^w a whale. I 1' Av P F: EiN: D I X. Vll Ti A B L E .1. Cflttitinued. Routt of the JCiiig Gebr^e and Queen Chadotte from Falkland's Iflajids th ilhe'Saxidwidh Iflandsl- . Tinat. 1786. May 3, Noon n 4 5 6 7 « 9 10 II 12 13 M 15 16 17 iH Utitnrif North. 10 49 12 09 «3 H 14 29 15 53 •7 13 18 24 '9 33 19 46 r 20 CI 19 56 30 05 20 01 '9 59 20 03 «Q n Longilttde Weft. 123 12 125 12 126 28 127 27 128 38 129 41 130 34 131 27 132 35 f - ■■ - ■ ' ■ ■ ■'■ :-y ( 134 II »35 48 138 18 140 07 142 12 '43 57 H5 50 V^riatioa Eaft. Winds, WFiitfier« mi Remarks. i fN.E. I in 1 -V and 7 8 N^JE. Fv(h ogile^, aaa cloudy. Caught ten turtle ; te^t four ^f ihem on board the Queen Charlotte. ^ ■ N. E. Frefli gales, tad :ha;zy. '\ .u ' N. E. b. N. Dittp, and clpudy . N. £. A frelh khide, anid hazy. tI>itto. Ditto, 4ittP., -Pifffd feYtli:^} turtle. Cau|;ht two qf thbm. j ^ ^ N. E, A frelh gale, an^ hazy. A''anabte. Frefli gales, and hazy. ^ I Diuo. Ditto, ditto, and cloudy. Cleaned (hip. Frefli gale, and hazy. P. M. Being the latitude of the Los Majoa Ifles, and about four degrees to the eaflward I of them, hove-to for (the night. Pafled 1 L fome fea weed. jE. N. E. A frefli trade, and cloudy. I Hove-to for the night. tEaft. ATrefli trade, and fqually. We I ftill continue to heave-to for the night. C Ditto. Frefli gales, and cloudy. Hove- j to as ufual. Pafled a large patch of I fea weed. f E. b. N. A frefli gale, and hazy. Having I pafled dirc »7 20 Lititnde North. 58 13 58 29 Longitade Weft. 150 31 M9 43 151 04 Variation Eaft. Windst Weather, and Remarks. 7~l f Ditto. 1 i fand, 23 Frefh gales, and hazy. At 7t A.M. ftruck foundings 70 fathoms, light grey with black fpecks. i Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy. At 7 P. M. faw the land bearing N. w.tw. {Ditto. A frefh breezet and hazy, with rain. The fouthernmofl land in fight S. W. twelve or thirteen leagues. {Ditto. Frefh gales, with conllant rain. The wefl point of the Barren Ifles N. N. E. two leagues. {Eaft. Frefh gales, with frequent fqualls, and conftant rain. At Sf P. M. came to an anchor in Cook's River. I APPENDIX. xiii- TABLE IV. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Aug. 1 3, 7 Noon. 5 M »5 16 »7 18 >9 20 SI 22 23 24 25 26 Latitude North. Loneitade Weft. , / 59 0' 59 09 59 23 I 50 11 149 59 59 27 149 >9 59 48 148 30 59 42 148 24 59 " 59 00 59 10 148 24 59 15 148 00 58 57 59 47 148 00 148 20 59 Ja 147 3» 58 26 59 00 146 39 140 03 59 »5 146 05 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 24 30 { { { { 1 28 10 I Variable. Light airs. The extremes of the Barren Illes S. W. and S. 38° W. Cape Elizabeth N. 86 W. five or fix leagues. Ditto. Light winds, and hazy. Ditto. Thick hazy weather. N» W. b. N. to W. S. W. Light winds and hazy. Soundings in 56 fathoms, mud and fand. Variable. Light winds. Saw the land bearing N. E. ^ £. diftant about two leagues. Ditto. Light airs, and foggy. At anchor off the S. W. end of Montague Ifland in 43 fathoms, gravelly bottom. Variable. Light winds. At 6^ P. M. weighed, and made fail. The land N. E. b. N. feven or eight miles. Eaft to N. E. Squally, with rain. N. E. Frefh gales, with thick rainy weather. Ditto. Ditto. Squally, and a heavy, fea from the N. E. Ditto. Strong gales, and clou;./, with rain. Eaft. Moderate, with drizzling /ain. Ditto. Light breezes, and foggy At 4 P. M. iaw Montague Jfland, bearing N. 46** W. £. N. E. Light winds, and foggy. Variable. Moderate and pleafant. N. E. Frefh breeze, and cloudy. Saw the land bearing W. t N. 11 or I2 miles diftant. HI • I 1 mr APPENDIX. TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Aug. 29,) Noon, i 30 Sept. 3> I 2 10 II 12 13 Latitude North. / 58 18 58 30 58 58 30 54 49 58 18 58 58 16 J7 57 43 57 33 57 54 57 18 57 00 56 49 S<5 37 Longitude Wtft. 146 14 •45 38 144 57 H3 39 142 41 141 08 140 33 140 28 140 03 139 40 138 39 ^37 58 '37 47 •37 34 138 08 138 31 Vailaiion Had. 14 57 06 136 40 I Winds, Weather, and Remarks. E. N. E. Frefli gales, with rain. Variable. Frcfli gales, and fqually, with drizzling rain at times. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. ' Ditto. Frelh breezes, and hazy. Variable. Moderate, with dc -zling rain. ; North to S. S. E. Moderate and cloudy. Saw a (hark. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto, ditto, with rain. Ditto. Squally, with rain. 5 S. E. to N. E. Freflj gales, and fqually, X and a heavy fea from the eaftward. 24 00 I Variable. Fre(h gales, and hazy. ; S. W. b. S. to S. E. b. E. Moderate and \ cloudy. The land in fight extending •j from E. N. E. to N. N. E. t E. A low I point N. E. t £• four or five leagues. ( Variable. Frefh gales, with thick drizzling 1 rain. 5 Ditto. Strong gales, and thick rainy wea- I ther, and a heavy fea from the S. E. ■ Eaft. Strong gales, and very hazy wea- ther. S.E. Frefh gales, and hazy, with rain, and a heavy fwell from the S. £. ■ S. W. Moderate and hazy. The land in fight. The eafternmoft part in fight S. E. b. E. t E. and the wefternmoft ditto N. W. diftancefrom the neareftpart two leagues. I APPENDIX. XT TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich IHands. Time. 1786. Sept, 15,1 Noon. 3 16 17 i8 19 20 a I 22 23 24 25 Latitude North. Longitude Weft. Variation Eaft. ' S6 se 138 02 5<5 55 5' 137 54 '3^ 45 53 46 '34 06 51 58 «32 39 S' 09 130 36 50 47 129 28 50 02 127 48 49 48 127.08 49 27 127 13 49 33 127 16 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 24 i8< 23 001 Variable. Strong gales, and hazy, with rain. Ditto. Fre(h gales, and cloudy. Weft. A frefli gale, and cloudy. N. W. A fre(h gale, with clear pleafant weather. Saw the land. Ditto. Fre(h gales, and pleafant weather The neareft land in fight N. b. £. eleven leagues. Ditto. FreHi breezes, and pleafant, with a long fwell from the N. E. W. N . W. Light winds, and clofe weather. Saw an ifland bearing from N. E. f E. to N. E. b. E. t E. diftance about fix leagues. N, W. Frcfli breezes, and cloudy. Woody Point N. b. W. three leagues, and the rock lying off the Point N. b. W. -^ W. two leagues. N. W. b. W. Moderate and pleafant. The land in fight extending from E. b. S. to W. N. W. t W. dittance from the neareft part about four leagues. Variable. Unfettled weather. P. M. a canoe with two men in her came off to the (hip. The north point of King George's Sound N. E. fix leagues, and Breakers Point N. 86° E. 10 leagues. Ditto. Light breezes, and cloudy. The north point of the found N. 63° E. about fix leagues diftant. » 3 tfl APPENDIX. TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time • Lariiud« North. LoffKttudt Weft. Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 17K6. e 1 a < » Variable. Heavy gales, with thunder, Sept. a ^ ■} A r\ ^ 'y f 4 .* t f 1 lightning, and rain. Carried away both Noon. 49 32 127 15 clews of our forefail. The land in fight bearing N. b. W. i W. five or fix leagues. . f Ditto. Squally unfettled weather, with . frequent fliowerii of hail and rain« and a 27 49 33 127 19 heavy fwell from the S. W. The north point of the entrance into the found E. N. E. fix or feven leagues. Ditto. Moderate, with rain. The north • • 28 49 3^ 127 II A point of the entrance N. 6^^" E. five , eagues. iW.N.W. A frefti gale, and cloudy. The 29 49 12 128 07 22 30^ entrance of the found N. ^6° E. 15 L leagues diftance. , S. b. E. Light airs and hazy, with a heavy , fwell from the N. W. Cleaned fliip. 30 47 SS 129 15 oa. I 47 53 130 24 , W. N.W. Frefli gales, and cloudy. A 1 head Tea. 2 46 48 131 06 19 00 Variable. Moderate and clear. 3 45 40 131 06 Weft. Moderate and foggy. 4 44 07 »3« S7 W. b. N. to N. N. E. Ditto, ditto. - 5 44 06 132 42 19 27 Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. 6 43 08 132 42 Ditto. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. 7 43 06 733 >7 Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually. 8 \ S. W, Squally, with lightning and rain. ^ 42 33 «33 17 4 and a heavy (well from the b. W. Ditto. Squally, with rain. 9 41 49 132 58 ID 40 32 133 31 Weft. Frefti gales, and cloudy. Variable. Frefli gales, and fqually, with II 39 27 133 " * a long fwell from the 8. W. ^ 12 38 44 133 i6 Ditto. Frefli gales, with rain. 12 APPENDIX. xvu T A B L E IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Goad, and from thence to the Sandwich I Hands. Time. Lititude North. Longitude Weft. Viriaiion End. 1786. / « • y Oa.13. 1 Noon. S 37 01 '33 45 M 3<5 24 134 16 15 35 59 '34 50 16 36 04 134 20 17 18 35 34 55 08 '35 04 '35 4' ^9 34 26 136 22 11 17 20 3+ 22 ^37 44 21 34 '5 139 01 22 34 00 140 54 23 33 40 140 54 24 33 29 141 38 85 32 57 142 16 26 a; 3« 32 36 24 •43 35 •44 «3 II 46 28 32 08 '45 01 29 31 05 «45 27 30 29 49 146 24 ■ SI 29 04 147 56 . Winds, Weather, and Remarki. N. W. b. W. Frclh gales, and pleafant. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Caught a fliark. S. £. b. S. Light winds, and cloudy. South. Moderate, and cloudy. Many. tropic birds about. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. North. Ditto, ditto. Variable. Frefh breezes, and clear. Tropic birds and flying fiHi about. S. b. E. Fre(h breezes, and cloudy, with a fwcll from the Southward. Variable. A frefli gale, and hazy. Saw (bme tropic birils. [ Ditto. Fre(h breezes, and hazy. Caught a dolphin. ' 8. S. E. Moderate and clqudy* with fogs at times. S. £. Moderate and hazy, with rain at times. S. S. E. A frefli breeze, with open cloudy weather. Caught a dolphin. Many . tropic birds about. S. £. b. S. A freOi breeze, and hazy. S. S. E. Moderate, and hazy. (Variable. Light winds, and hazy. Cleaned 2 fliip. )E. S. E. A freih gale, and cloudy. S. E. A frefh gale, and fqually. Saw a whale. I Ditto. A frefli breeze, and hazy. _ xviH A P P E N D I X; TABLE IV. Continued, Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River, along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. Latitude North. 1786. Nov. 1,7 Noon. I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 o 28 27 36 24 24 H 23 23 82 22 23 21 20 20 20 20 20 20 M 15 oz 54 30 02 15 CI 47 52 30 a6 33 04 08 16 Longitude Weft. 148 148 149 150 150 rji 153 n6 20 j8 35 56 36 02 15 20 56 55 00 38 01 5> 22 47 35 4^ Variation Eaft. 12 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. i Eaft. Moderate and cloudy. A fwcU from °9j theS.E. E. b. S. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Variable. Squally unfettled weather. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Variable. Light winds, and pleafant weather. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. J£. S. E. Moderate and cloudy^ Saw fome land birds. Many tropic birds about. I Variable. Unfettled weather. I Ditto. Strong gales and hazy, with rain. 1 Ditto. Strong gales, and fqually, with 2 lightning and heavy rain. I Ditto. Frelh breezes, with rain. N. b. E. Moderate and pleafant. Caught a (hark. N. N. E. Ditto, ditto. £. S. E. Light winds, and hazy. 5 Eaft. Ditto, ditto, ditto. Saw the land I bearing S. W. 4- W. 12 or 13 leagues. I E. S. E. Moderate. Clofe in fhorc. i Variable. Light winds, and hazy. Stand- i ing along (hore. I Ditto. Moderate and pleafant. Diftance ( off (hove about three miles. {Ditto. Strong gales, and cloudy; The S. W. end of Owhyhee fouih. Light- ning and rain. f S. W. Frefli gales, with heavy rains. P. M? Ihove-to for a canoe with three men in. Hoifted her up, and took the men on botrd, ttiey being very much fatigued. I APPENDIX. XIX TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River, along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Nov. 21, Noon 35 27 29 Dec. I Latitude North. 21 10 21 07 21 32 21 33 21 19 21 35 21 33 21 17 21 26 21 20 21 15 Longitude Well. Variation Ealt. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. {' W. S. W. Frerii breezes, and fqually. Mowee extending from S. S. E 4. E. to S. W. h S. diftance five leagues. rE. S. E. Light winds, and plealant. The I vpeft end of Mowee W. S. W. {Variable. Light vvinds, and pleafant. The extremes of Morotoi S. -^ E. and S. W. diftant from the neareft part fix leagues. cS. b. W. A frefh gale, and cloudy. The 1 eaft end of Mowee S. b. E. i E. I Variable. Light winds, and hazy. The / eaft point of Mowee S. t E. five leagues. ( S. b. W. A frelh breeze, and clear. The i eaft point of Mowee S. S. E. ^ E. is. y. W. Moderate and clear. The ex- tremes of Morotoi S. b. W. •»• W. and S. W. ^ W. fix or feven leagues diftance. i Variable. Light breezes, and fine. The f eaft point of Morotoi S. W. t S.- ( E. b. N. Light airs, and hazy. The s ifland of Woahoo in fight bearing from ( W.S.W.^W. to Weft. I N. E. A frefli breeze, and hazy. The * fouth point of Morotoi S. E. {N. E. A frefh breeze, and cloudy. At five P. M. anchored in the bay in the fouth end of Woahoo in nine fathoms. JV. B. From this to the 15th of March 1787, the veflels were at apchor, and off the idauds of Woahoo, Atoui, and Oneehow. Tcjl XX APPENDIX. T A B L E V. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich lilands to Prince William*s Sound. Time. 1787. Mar. 15, 7 Noon, i 18 '9 20 21 23 23 24 25 26 a; 28 3» April I Latitude North. 21 31 29 40 24 24 26 02 a? 28 28 29 29 31 32 35 36 37 38 39 39 40 23 47 56 12 a6 21 58 04 02 20 38 35 2,i J7 Longitude Weft. ijrp 02 158 35 ^58 13 157 52 •57 47 «57 47 158 30 1 5*9 CO 159 13 159 01 158 u 158 08 157 02 ^55 55 154 18 'i'3 45 152 56 152' 01 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. J { S. E. b. E. Moderate breeze, and pleafant weather. The N. E. point of Atoui bore N. W. 4 W. and the wefternmoft point in fight W. b. N. S. S. £. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. South to W. b. N. Fre(h breezes* and cloudy, vrith rain. Variable. Strong gales, with heavy rain and thunder and lightning, and a heavy fea from the fouthward. S. S. W. Frefh breezes, and fqually with rain. S. W. Moderate, and hazy, with rain. N. E. b. N. Light winds and hazy, and a fwell from the N. W. North. Moderate, and clear. N. E. Light winds and cloudy, and a fwell from the weftward. Eaft. Frcfti gales, with drizzling rain. S. E. Frefli gales, with cloudy weather. S. S. E. Frelh gales, with thick hazy wea- ther. S. S. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Pitto, ditto, and clear. S. S. W. A frefli breeze, and clear. N. W. b. N. Strong gales and fqually, with fhowers of hail. N. N. W. Strong gales, and hazy. S. S. £. A ftrong gale and cloudy, and a heavy fwell from the N. N. W. South. Frefh gales and fqually, with rain. APPENDIX. XXI T A B L E V. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands to Prince William's Sound. Time. 1787. April 3,7 Noon, j 4 5 10 II J2 14 15 Latitude iLongitnde North. Weft. 44 51 46 03 46 53 47 54 47 22 47 40 48 28 50 04 51 «i 53 46 54 06 55 41 57 M 150 00 149 09 149 27 149 23 148 25 147 23 147 16 147 17 '47 23 146 55 '46 54 '46 5^ 147 09 Variation Eaft. WindS) Weather, and Remarks. 18 1 S. S. W. Strong gales with rain, and a heavy following fea. Saw a whale, and feveral divers. \ S, W. Frefh gales and fqually, with ( rain. J Variable. A frefli breeze, and hazy. ^^l Caught a porpoife. J Ditto. A ftrong gale, with rainy weather. Caught a diver, r North. A frefh breeze and cloudy, with I ihowers of hail and fnow. JN. N. W. Frefli breezes and cloudy, with fnow. Faffed feveral pieces of fea weed. r From N, to S. b. W. Frefh breezes and "{ hazy, with rain. Faffed fea weed, a feal, i and a flock of gulls. {' S. W. b. S. A frefli breeze, with a thick fog. Faffed fea weed, drift wood, and a diver. r Variable. Thick foggy weather. Saw a I whale. C W. S. W. A frefh gale, with fair weather. < Faffed feveral patches of fea weed, and ( logs of wood. f Variable. Frelh gales, with fleet and fnow. I Saw feveral fiocks of gulls. ( Ditto. Moderate and cloudy. Saw two / whales, and a flock of gulls. iW. S. W. A frefh gale, and cloudy, with fhowers of fnow. Faffed drift wood, fea weed, whales, gulls, and divers. . XXll APPENDIX. T A B L E , V. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from the Sandwich Iflands, to Prince William's Sound. Time. 1787 April 1 6, Noon n 17 iH 20 21 22 23 24 25 Latitude North. 58 10 59 13 58 48 ^9 " 59 00 59 " 59 50 Longitude 9/ariation Weft. 147 148 M7 J48 148 149 148 148 18 33 04 24 29 40 02 J 5, 24 Eaft. 19 00 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Variable. Moderate and cloudy, with fliowers of fnow. Ditto. Moderate and hazy, with (howers of fnow at times. Saw a feal. S. S. W. Frefh gales, with drizzling rain and fleet. Faffed feveral patches of fea weed. W. b. S. Strong gales, and cloudy, with fleet, and a heavy fea from the S. W. S Variable. Frefli breezes, with fnow. Saw C a large flock of wild geefe. , fEaft. Strong gales, with fnow and fleet. ( Saw a flock of fliags. f E. b. N. A frefh gale, with fleet and rain. Saw many whales, gulls, divers, fhags, and many other kinds of birds. Variable. A frefli breeze, with fnow. ' Many whales and birds about. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and hazy. The ex- tremes of Montague Ifland E. b. S. five miles, and N. b. E. ^ E. four leagues. !' Variable. At anchor in Prince William's , Sound from this to July 31, 1787. APPENDIX. XKl'lt TABLE VI. Route of the King George (after parting Company) from Prince William's Sound to Portlock's Harbour. Time. 1787. Noon, i Aug. I 2 3 A Latitude North. 5'9 59 58 57 57 Longitude Weft. Variation Baft. 27 49 59 12 57 23 57 48 •'47 15 X44 09 141 02 138 20 138 07 i3<5 35 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. W. S. W. Light airs, and hazy. 27 00 S. b. W. Moderate and cloudy. K S. E. Strong gales, with thick rainy wea- i then. i Variable. A frefli breeze, and cloudy, and I a heavy fea from the S. W. \ S. b. W. A frefh breeze, and pleafant wea- ' ther. and clear. The mountain bearing i W. diftance 25 or 30 leagues. clear pleafant Portlock's Har- Augufti787. I {Variable. Very light airs, land in fight. A high m N. N. W. i W. diftance ; ^ {N. W. Fre(h breezes, and < weather. At anchor in Po bour from this to' the 2 qd of , 3CX1V APPENDIX. TABLE VII. Route of the King George from Portlock's Harbour to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1787. Aug.23, Noon ?■} Sept. 24 Latitude North. 57 35 57 05 26 27 28 29 31 i'4 31 52 22 50 06 48 46 44 Longitude Weft. 03 08 30 4 i 7 8 9 10 II 43 32 4a 5* 4« 05 40 38 37 36 34 33 3» 3» 39 49 3a 05 50 33 00 138 42 138 48 138 48 138 48 138 37 138 28, 138 07 137 5° 137 39 137 84 135 58 135 45 13^ 49 135 »4 135 a6 '35 43 136 02 136 22 136 41 Variation Eaft. WiadS} Weather, and Remarks. {'Variable. Light winds, and pleafant Mount Fair Weather bearing N. W. b.>I. , 25 leagues. i S. E. Moderate, with thick rain, and a I head fwell. 1 3. W. b. W. A frefli breeze, with a thick f fog and rain. 24 00 1 W. b. S. Strong gales, with drizzling rain i N. W. Strong gales, and fog, with drizzling I - rain. Saw (cveral whales. rWeft. Frefh gales, with drizzling rain. < Faffed a feal, feveral logs of wood, and ^ patches of fea weed. N. b. W. A frefh gale, and hazy. North. A frefh breeze, and cloudy. 18 00 N. N. W. Moderate and hazy. Variable. Moderate and cloudy. A great many birds about. {' Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. Caught , a fhark and two bonitos. J S. W. Moderate and fair. Saw two Arc * tic gulls. Variable. Squally, with rain. IS ^5 Weft. A frefh breeze, and clear. Variable. Moderate and pleafant. N. W. Moderate and fair. N. b. W. Moderate and hazy. 12 45 N. Eb. E. Ditto, and clear. E. N. E. Moderate breezes, and clofe wea then N. b. £. A frefh breeze, and hazy. APPENDIX* xxr TABLE VII. Continued. Route of the King George from Portlock's Harbour to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1787. Sept. 12,' Noon. ' 13 14 15 16 18 20 81 22 ±4 25 26 27 28 39 Latitude North. 29 .?• 28 56 28 '7 27 5^ 26 42 25 24 23 91 20 20 30 36 19 20 48 49 22 54 37 17 02 49 05 20 03 20 12 Longitude Weft. '3^ 59 137 II 137 26 «37 35 136 25 136 12 136 33 137 27 139 i^ HO 55 143 07 145 15 147 3^- M9 03 i5« 32 Variation Eaft. o II 82" { 9 45 •! 8 00 1 WindS) Weather, and Remarks. Variable. Light winds* and pleafant. Saw feveral tropic birds. N. N. E. Light winds, and clear. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. S. W. b. W. A frefh breeze, and Open cloudy weather, and a fwell from the weftward. W, b. S. Moderate, and cloudy. N. W. Ditto, ditto, and a fwell from the N. W. N. E. b. N. A frefh breeze, and clear. ^ N. E. A frefli gale and fqually, with rain. E. N. E. A frefli gale, and cloudy. Ditto. A frefli breeze, and hazy. E. N. E. A frefli gale, and cloydy. Ditto, ditto, ditto, and hazy. , — E. N. E. A frefli gale, and cloudy. Ditto. A frefli gale, and hazy. Many tropic birds and land birds about. E. b. N. Moderate and clear, with a long following fea. The ifland of Owhyhee in fight, the eaft point bearing S. b. W. ■^ \V. diflance about twelve or fourteen leagues. Variable. Squally unfetiled weather. Five miles off fliore. Eaft. Moderate and cloudy. Caught two fliarks. Diftance off fliore four or five miles. [D] . I XXTt APPENDIX, TABLE VII. Coatinued. Route of the King George from Portlock's Harbour to the Sandwich lilands. Time. 1787. Sept. 30, J Noon. J oa. 1 Latitude North. 21 58 21 51 Longitude Weft. Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. I i£. b. N. Moderate and cloudy, the fouth point of the ifland of Mowee W, S. W. 4W. (Variable. Squally, with'fliowers of rain. The extremes of Morotoi S. t W. and S. £. b. E. t E. Diftance from the near- eft part about feven leagues. Moderate and fair. The extremes WoahooS. 38° E. and S. 73° E. From neareft part eight leagues. {Variable. Moderate, and fair. Atoot from E. b. N. to N. N. E. Town of Wymoa N. E. b. E. four leagues. {Variable. Light airs. At anchor in Yam Bay in the ifland of Oneehow, firom this to the 8th of Odober 1787. I I clt pai iE. b. N. ofW( the ne APPENDIX. xxvii TABLE VIU. Route of the King George from the Sandwich lilands to China. Time. 1787, oa. 8,1 Noon, y 9 10 II 12 13 "4 '5 16 17 18 19 so , 21 22 33 24 Lttiiadfl North. 21 26^ ,&0 XOi 18 40 16 48 15 >a 14 07 13 17 13 47 13 45 13 51 '3 SS 13 40 13 46 IS 48 13 54 13 28 13 28 LoDgitudf Weft. 161 36 l6» 43 163 50 165 07 166 39 168 37 172 22 174 24 176 15 178 13 179 53 181 29 18445 iS6 43 187 51 '90 34 190 34 VariAtioB Baft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 9 00 j EafV. A frefli gale, and pleafant weather. i£. N. E. Moderate, at^d clear. Eaft. A frefli breeze, and hazy. Saw s^ tern. I Ditto. A frefli gale, with rain, j E. N. E. A frefti gale, and cloudy. J N. £!. b. E. A frefh gdle and hazy, with aj I following fea. Saw feveral tern. _ J E. N. E. A frefli gale and cloudy, with a " 3 ( heavy following fwell. I Ditto. A frefh breeze, and cloudy. f £. b. N. Moderate and cloudy, and a fol- ( lowing fwell. f Ditto. A moderate gale and fqually, withi *3 rain. C Variable. Frefh gales and fqually, withi I rain. f E. b. N. Moderate, and cloudy. Caughti' I a land bird of the plover kind. i Variable. Squally unfettled weather, with! rain, and (harp lightning in the fouthecn and weftern boards. j r Ditto. Moderate, and clear. Saw twoj I tropic birds. ! r E. S. £. Light winds, and cloudy, with a I fwdl from the N. E. j E. N. E. Li^t winds, and fair weather. {Ditto. A fine breeze, and cloudy. Many tropic birds about, and faw two land birds. _J ■ LDj 2 «3 " Jkxviii A P F E N B I £ TABLE VIII. Continued. Route of the King George from the Sandwich Inlands to China^, Time. 1787. oa.25,1 1. J Noon. 86 27 28 29 3» Nov. I 5 6 7 8 .9 10 Latitude North. e / n 34 »3 44 13 26 ■13 24 13 30 13 20 13 '3 29 29 13 42 H 29 15 12 16 CO id 58 »7 30 17 52 »8 33 '9 08 Longitude Weft. 194 00 »95 38 '97 05 199 03 aoo 51 203 30 203 56 207 31 209 08 311 36 214 07 316 35 219 10 221 37 223 48 226 13 228 39 Variation Eift. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. ' , £. b. N. Squally, with freqpent lowers 4 of rain, oaw a booby. Variable. Squally, with rain at times* Caught a noddy. . Eaft. Moderate, and cloudy.. u 7; E. N. E. Ditto,^ ditto. r Eaft. Moderate and cloudy, but fquallsi at times, with rain, and lightning in> the fouthern board. E. N. £. Moderate,, and hazy. . 10 8t N. E. b. E. Ditto, and cloudy. 8 12 N. E. Moderate, and fair. ■Variable. Frefli breezes and.fqually, with I rain. Saw a duck. CN. E. Freib gales, and. fair pleafant wea- l ther. rN.E.b.N. Frefh gales,. and hazy. The ifland of Tinian, one of the Ladrones, 7 1 8 -I in fight, extending from S. 30? E. to S. 6o°.E. Our diftancefrom the weft point L about 10 leagues. fN; E. A frefh gale, and sloudy, With rain at times. N. £. h. N. A frefh gale, and clear. f N. E. A frefh gale and cloudy, with light l fqualli, and rain.at times... i N. £.; A freih gale, and fair pleafant wea- 1 ther. • : (.N. E!.b. E. A frefh breeze, and^ fair. Saw X : many tropic birds*. N. £. A frefh gale, and cloudy, with fqualls at times. \ A P P- E N D I X. 'xidx .T A B L E ^ VIII Continued. JElouJte of the King George from the Sandwich Iflands to China. Time. Latiiude North. Longitude Weft. 1787. Nov. ii») Noon, i 19 42 231 08 '^'^: 12 30 30 233 04 13 21 10 237 06 . . . . : '4 22 10 i 233 05 15 22 03 240 26 16 22 07 17 22 28 18 »9 • Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks* N. E. A frefli gale, and fair, with a very heavy fwell from the northwftrd. N. N. £. Strong gales, and fair, with a heavy fea from the northward. N. E. b. N. Strong gales, aiid cloudy. N. E. b. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy. P. M. pafTed the Ba(hee I^ands. At noon the ifland of Bptel Tol^ago Xima bore from W. N. WJ to W. iabout four leagues diflant. A heavy fea from the N. E. N. E. b. N, A frefh breeze, and hazy, ' .wiilji frequent puffs oflF the land. The ibuth point of the ifland oif Formola E. b. S. five leagues, and the north part in fight N. b. W. 4.! W. four leagues. N. b. E. Strong gales, and hazy, with a heavy fea from the northward. N. N. E. Strong gales, and hazy. Sound- ed 2o fathoms. Light grey fand. North. Moderate, and hazy. The ifland of Pedro Blanco N. E. b. N. four miles. Soundings in 34 fathoms, muddy fand. A. M. took a pilot on board out of a fifliing-boat. N. N. E. A frefli breeze, and hazy, with rain at times. The Grand Lama in fight, bearing S. £. b. S. 13 or 14 Qiiles. APPENDIX. TABLE Vni. Continued. Route of the King George from the Sandwich iHandt to China. Time. »7«7- NoT.ao,^ Noon, i 31 Lttiwde North. • « 29 10 Longitadfl Wtft. Variation Eaft. Winds* Weather, and Remarkt. North. Light winds* and cloudy. At 5 P. M. came- to, the ifland of Macaa bearing Weft, in 8'^ fathoms, muddy bottom. At 6 A. M. weighed ; and at t paft 10 A. M. came-to again, with the bed bower, in nine fathoms muddy bottom, Macao bearing N. W. t N. five • or fix leagues. ''North. Light breezes, and fair. At i P. M. weighed, and made fail towards Macao. And at f paft 4 came-to in Macao Roatb, with the heft bower, in 4 r fathoms, muddy bottom. The peak of Lantoon £. b. N« APPENDIX. 9CXXI TABLE IX. Route of the King Georgr and Queen ChafJoCte from China, to parting Company oS Java Head. Time. 1788. Feb. 10, NOOQ ?•} II 12 »3 M J5 16 17 18 '9 30 2Z 22 23 24 Ltiitadt Nerik. Longicud* Will. • « «» 37 246 21 20 02 346 eg) 18 ss 246 o8| 18 01 246 35* 17 44 246 17; 16 32 «5 3» 14 23 H5 56 346 01 246 43 13 01 247 28 II 40 248 36 10 01^ ?5o Z5 8 42 7 03 5 «8 252 17 253 20 254 17 409 254 SI Vtriuioa Baft. Winds, Weather, and Remarkf. Variable. Frefli breezes, and fine weather. At t pad 9 A. M. the S. E. end of the Grand Ladrone bore N. E. t N. eight leagues. J N. £. to £. Fre(h breezes, and fine wea> I tfaer. \ E. b. S. Frefli breezes, and open cloudy I weather. {S. £. to £. Moderate breezes, and fair. At t pad 7 A. M. faw a Arange fail to the N. E. ftanding to the fouth. f Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. P. M. 3 fpoke the fail we faw this morning ; flie I is called the Lowden, Captain Berkely, ^ from Macao, bound to the Mauritius. 17 E. N. £. Moderate, and cloudy. I N. E. to £. Moderate breezes, and clear. ! Variable. Frefli breezes, and hazy. I N. E. b. N. to E. N. E. Moderate breezes, / and fair. ^ { N. E. b. N. A frefli breeze, and cloudy, ^ / with a following fea. I Ditto. A frefli gale, with fine weather. The ifland of Pulo Sapata in fight S. W. ^ b. W. ^ W. two or three miles difiance, and a fmall rock in one with Sapata N. W. b. W. 4-W. 52 N. E. Frefli breezes, and clear. Ditto. Frefli gales, and hazy. N. E. b. E. toE. Moderate breezes, and fair. E. N. E. Moderate, and clear. Pafled a -'^ ' large piece of drift wood. ttxxm A P P END' I X/ TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Feb. ^5,) !soon. I 26 27 s8 29 Latitude North. March i 2 35 I II o 11 I II Longitnde I Variation Weft. Eaft. 254 26 254 45' 254 25 250 40 2 12 254 42 254 5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. E. N. E. toN. N. E. Moderate breezes, and hazy. The fouth point of the ifland of Anamba in fight E N. E. diftant ten or eleven leagues ; and the ifland of Pulo d'Omai N. E. b. N. four leagues. iN. N. K. Light winds, and clofe weather. The ifland of Pulo Panjang in fight, the fouth point bearing S. W. -^ S. diftance about fix leagues. r N. E. to N. N. E. Light winds, and clear. J The eafternmoft point of the Damonis [ Iflands in fight, W. 4 S. nine leagues. N. N. E. Moderate, with lightning. At II AM. fpoke the Queen Charlotte, when Captain Dixon informed us his furgeon was dead. The extremes of the three iflands in fight, N. E. b. E. f E and S. 2. b. E. I E. Diftant from the neareft part four leagues. Iflands off the north point of Banca S. S. W. 11 leagues N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. iN.toN.N. E. Frefh breeze, and clear. The north point of Banco in fight N. W. b. N. Sumatra extending from S. W. f S. to S. E. b. E. t E. four leagues. Invariable. Frefli gales, with rain. At f pad I P. M. paffed a flioal bearing from , Mount Monopin S. E. b. S, four or five leagues. At 7 P. M. came-to in eleven fathoms water, muddy bottom. At 5 A. M. weighed, and made fail. The 2d point on the Sumatra fhore W. 4 N. five miles. II APPENDIX. xxxiit TABLE IX. Continued, Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company ofF Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 2,1 Noon, i Latitude S«atli. 3 9 3 c6 3 5c 3 51 4 ' »7 Longitadc Weft. 253 56 4 39 Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Variable. Light winds, with heavy rain. At 3 P. M. paffed a Dutch man of war lying at anchor. The ift point on the Sumatra fhore S. E. 4. S. Spoke the Lanf- down Indiaman, Captain Storey. At 7 P. M. came-to in eleven fathoms mud. At 5 A. M. weighed, and made fail- Lufepara S. E. four leagues. Ditto. Light winds, and fultry. At 6 P. M. the Lanfdown ftruck on a fhoal. and duck faft. Anchored in 5t fathoms, and fent boats to aflifl the Lanfdown. South point of Sumatra S. b. W. f W. three leagues. At 3 A. M. got the Lanf- down into deep water without any da- mage. Ditto. Light airs, and hazy. Half paft P. M < weighed, and came to fail ; Sumatra ex- ( tending from N. W. t N. to S. W. t S. (Ditto. Light airs, with calms. During I thefe 24 hours, feveral limes underweigh. {Ditto. Light airs, with rain. P. M weighed, and came to fail. At 1 1 P. M. anchored in nine fathoms muddy bottom. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy, with fharp lightning. At 3P.M weighed, and made fail, Sumatra bearing from S. W. b. W. 4 W. to W. t S. fix leagues. At i A. M. anchored in ten fathoms water. Weighed, and made fail at 8 o'clock, and anchored at 1 1 A.M. Sumatra N. W.^N. to W N. W. fix leagues- _ XXXIV APPENDIX. r TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 8, 1 Noon. 5 9 10 II 12 Latitude South. 4 54 4 SS S 04 5 07 5 26 Longitode Weft. Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remark*. r Variable. Light airs, and cloudy. At 2 P. M. weighed and llood to the fouih- ward. At 7 came-to in 1 1 fathoms, the Sifters bearing South. At 8 A. M. weighed and made fail, the Sifters from S. W. b. S. to S. W. t S. 7 miles. ■ Ditto. Frefti gales and fqually, with rain. At I P.M. anchored in 13 fathoms wa- ter. At 3 weighed, and made fail. At 6 frefli gales and fqually, came-to in 1 3 fathoms. The Sifters S. b. W. 5 miles, and a high ifland to the Weftward of the Sifters S. S. W. fix leagues. Ditto. Light winds, and fultry«.At i P.M. weighed and made fail; At t P^^ 6 came-to in 10 fathoms. The Sifters S. b. E. i E. and S. S. E. j E. two miles. From S. b. E. to S. W. Moderate and cloudy. Half part 3 P. M. weighed and made fail. At 4 p^^ 5 came-to in 1 1 fathoms. The Sifters S. E. b. E. two miles. At t paft 6 A. M. weighed and made fail. At 10, anchored in 11 fa<- thoms water,, the Sifters bearing E. b. S. two miles. F Variable. Moderate, and hazy. At 7 A. M. I weighed and made fail. At noon. North Ifland S, S. W. feven miles. Cape St. Nicholas S. b. E. eight leagues, four miles from the Sumatra fhore. APPENDIX. XXXV TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company oft* Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 13,7 Noon, l Latitude South. 14. 15 16 24 Longitude Wert. 25 6 23 Variation Eaft. 6 3S Winds, Weather, and Remarks. From N. to N. W. Squally, with rain. At 2 P. M. came-to in 1 1 fathoms, North Ifland S. b. W. {. W. five miles. At 5 A. M. weighed and made fail. At 8 moderate and cloudy. North IQand S. b. W. i-J- mile. At 10 anchored on the Sumatra fliore in 3 1 fathoms. Warped off into 17 fathoms, and made fail. N, N. W. Light winds, with frequent fqualls and rain. At 3 P. M. anchored in eight fathoms. North Ifland N. N. E, three miles. Found feveral Dutch vef- fels riding at anchor. Employed wood* ing and watering. {Variable. Cloudy, with fqualls and rain. At 8 A. M. weighed and got under fail. From this to the 23d, working up to Cracatoa, where we filled our water, f Ditto. Squally, with rain. At half part 4 A. M. moderate and fair, weighed and made fail. At noon Prince's Ifland from S. W. to S. W. b. W. four leagues, and the Peak of Cracatoa N. b. W. fix leagues. W. N. W. to N. W. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. At 4 P. M. Prince's Ifland from S. W. b. W. to W. N. W. three leagues. At 8 anchored in 35 fathoms, muddy bottom. North point of Prince's Ifland W. b. S. five leagues. South point of Java S. W. At 5 A. M. weighed and made fail. At noon the north point of Prince's Ifland N. W. b. W. t W. four leagues. XXXVl APPENDIX. TABLE IX. Continued. . Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 26, > Noon. 5 a; 28 29 30 Latitude Sooth. 6 42 7 47 8 S9 10 15 II 09 Lonsicadc Weft. ai'4 «5 254 56 25s 23 255 39 Variation Baft. Winds, Wieather, and Remarks. ^ i Variable. Moderate breezes, and fair weather. Half pad 6 P. M. came-to in 40 fathoms muddy bottom. The fouth point of Prince's Ifland S. W. i. W. four leagues, and the fouth point of Java S. W. b. S. fix leagues. At 8 A. M. weighed and came to fail. At noon a frefh gale and hazy. Java Head S. b. W. four miles. N. W. to W. N. W. Frefh gales and cloudy. N. W. Frefh galea, and hazy. From N. to N. W. Squally, with rain* Saw a fail in the N. E/. quarter. N. E. Light breezes and hazy. Spoke the Queen, Douglas, from China, all well. This day agreed to part conapany with the Queen Charlotte. J»- APPENDIX. XJCXVll r TABLE X Route of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen Charlotte) to St. Helena. Time. 1788. Mar. 3 1,7 Noon, y April I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ID II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 23 23 . 24 25 Latitude South. o II 12 13 '5 16 16 17 17 18 18 19 »9 19 20 20 20 20 21 22 22 23 ^3 24 37 17 84 »3 02 33 16 54 21 57 21 38 55 04 16 3« 57 46 28 58 29 47 28 Longitude Weft. 256 28 24 35 24 58 257 259 261 263 26jr 266 268 269 272 274 276- 278 280 282 285 286 288 s8 00 10 18 04 SS 38 54 54 3' 52 41 5' »5 34 44 290 53 292 3' 294 17 296 30 297 47 299 07 300 2? ^02 19 Variation Weft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 4 38 1 6! { 15 17 Eafterly. Light winds, and fair weather. E. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. £. S. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and fine weather. Eaft. Ditto, ditto. Eafterly. Frelh gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, and fair weather. Ditto. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. Eaft to N. E. Frefh breezes, and hazy. Eafterly. Squally, with rain. E. S. E. Frefli breezes, and cloudy weather. Ditto. Ditto, and fine weather. E. b. 8. Moderate, and ditto, E. S. E. Frefli gales, and clear. Ditto. Moderate, and clear. S. E. Light winds, and fine weather. S. S. E. Frefli breezes, and clear. A fwell from theS.W. S. b. E. Frelh gales, and hazy. S. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy. A fwell from the S. W. E. N. E. Moderate, and clear. Northerly. Frefli gales, and cloudy weather Variable. Moderate, and hazy. S. S. W. Frefli gales, an^cloudy, A heavy fea from the fouihward. Variable. Frefli gales, and open cloudy weather. S. S. E. Moderate breezes, and fine wea- ther XXXVIll A P ? E N D I X. TABLE X. Continued. Route of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen Charlotte) to St. Helena. Time. Latitude. South. ■ Longitude Weft. 1788. April 26,7 Noon. I a6 26 / 304 08 " 27 28 ^7 26 15 07 306 26 308 34 29 38 38 3'i 13 30 May I 2 3 29 29 29 28 16 36 46 53 313 5fc 3«4 55 3^5 4i 317 03 4 29 45 318 46 • • 5 6 30 31 40 03 321 15 322 43 7 32 01 325 09 8 32 33 326 36 9 33 30 328 39 10 33 24 329 52 II 34 23 330 34 12 35 04 333 39 13 35 c6 33 03 14 35 47 336 48 Variation Weft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1 S. S. E. Frefli gales and clear. Variable. Ditto, ditto. Eaft. Ditto, ditto. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Strong lightning to theS.W. E. b. N. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Variable. Ditto, and clear weather. . Ditto. Moderate, and hazy. S. W. Squally, with rain. S. b. W. Frelh gales, and cloudy weather, with a heavy fea. South. Frefli gales, and clear. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. N. b. E. Moderate breezes, and clear wea- ther. Variable. Frefli gales and fqually, with lightning. Ditto. Frefli gales, and cloudy weather. Ditto. Ditto, and fquaily Tried Ibund- ingswiih 100 fathoms line. No, ground. Variable. Light airs, with calms and cloudy weather. A heavy iwell from the W.S.W. Ditto. Freflibreezes, and clear. Saw high land bearing N. W. 27 leagues. E. N. E. Moderate breezes, and clear. Land in fight from N. b. E. f E. to N. b. W. 20 leagues. N. E. Light breezes, and clear. The land in fight North 18 leagues. Faffed feve- ral ftrong riplings of a current. -t A -P P r :E N -D -I X. XXXlNr -< TABLE X. Continued. Rout^ of the King George (after parting Company with the Queen Charlotte) to St. Helena. Time. 1788. NTay 15. 7 Noon, i 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 35 :6 27 28 .31 Latitude South. 35 46 36 20 35 47 35 25 3S S3 35 43 35 47 35 22 35 2b 34 46 34 03 33 20 32 36 32 29 31 43 29 45 2^ CI Longitude Weft. 339 .13.. 339 24 339 02 338 3« 338 38 339 55 34^ 27 340 5' 341 15 342 ^5 343 37 344 15 344 48 344 54 346 8 34S 3 350 13 Variation Weft. WindB, Weather, and Remarks. N. N E. FrcHi breezes, and cloudy. Saw y a large feal, and numbers of gulls and l .'ganeis. J Variable. Strong gales, and fqually. Saw I a fail in the N. W. quarter. \ Ditto. Very ftrong gales, and fqually. J Lay-to. i W. b. N. Frefti gales, and cloudy. Saw j large flocks of gulls and ganets. Variable. Frefh breezes, and hazy weather. I N. W. Moderate and cloudy. Variable. Ditto, ditto. Pafled a large piece of wood covered with barnacles. Pafled through a ftrong ripling of a current, i Variable. Frefli gales, and cloudy weather N. W. b. VV. Frefli breezes, and fqually. 1 Wefterly. Ditto, and open cloudy wea- j ther. Saw a fail to the fouthward ftand- f ing to the northward. f Variable. Moderate and cloudy. A (hip 1 in fight. Hoifts a French jack at the ^ mizen-topmaft-head. { Ditto. Light winds, and clear. Many por- t poifes. I Ditto. Moderate, and hazy. f Northerly. Frefli gales, with rain. Great / numbers of Albeirolfes. I Variable. Frefli breezes,, and fqually, with I lightning and rain. S. \V. Frcfli gales, and fine weather. S. S. E. Ditto, and fqually. xt A P P' E N D I X. !• TABLE X. Continued. Route of the King George (after parting Companjf' with the Queen Charlotte) to St. Helena. Time. 1788. _ June i,> Noon. J 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 Latitude South. 26 36 25 34 24 44 23 50 82 30 21 21 30 09 19 00 16 30 15 S5 15 55 Longitude Well. 35 » 36 4< K2 41 353 26 352 352 353 5» 35? 24 357 58 359 10 3^0 38 363 16 S^5 30 Variation Well. ■1 Winds. Weather, and Remarks. \ S. E. Frefli breezes, and cloudy weather. A '/aft quantity of porpoifes about. S. b. £. Moderate, and cloudy. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, and clear weather. Northerly. Fre(h breezes, and clear. Southerly. Ditto, and hazy weather. S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. S. S. E. Ditto, ditto. A heavy fwell from the fouthward. S. E. Frefli breezes, and cloudy weather. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. S. E. b. E. Ditto, ditto. At oooa faw St. Helena bearing W. S. W. three leagues. At s P- M. anchored in the road in fathoms water. It 1 THE END. ler. ir. St. es. 13