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IlillilitTrilnir ■ I^TV j 1 . 1 1 iV (Mi,'rlTriM-.|MIIHii|TNM|li|n|ii| •|.i|i'|i>|iiH'|iH.i||.|H|..iM|ii|r,|Mll.tli|il»MlllTr) """"''''•'""'''' nili II llllll II llllll II II II II II II II 11 II II II II II II II II II II II IN ■ Dim I llPliJ UIDE TO SAINT JOHN [f ff %.%S^% ■AND THE wm \\n^ riiiiiiiiiiiii |IIIII|||||JIIIIII|1I|II|IIIIJII1I||II|||I iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii.i.iiiiiiliiiiiiimniiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii lllNMilllllllMIIIIIIIIIJIIIIllllllliill, • t>;?j_i"|ii't'iii([i|i<«i(|triMiti(>>|it|iiiiitiiiii|tiiii|itiM«M(iiliilii iiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiaiiiMiMi.tiiiiiiiiiiiiliti. •ii|ii|ii|iiiii|i)iii|iiiiilii|iiii>iiil'iiii|i|iiiitiiiilil(liilniii|iiliilii|iilii|iiliiiniiil iiiiiiiniiii I iniiliitiiiiiili ^ostfut. CONTAINING ^ .. « «^ ^-^ MAPS, ILLUSTRATION HACK FARES. RAILROAD ^ AND STEAMBOAT LINES; LISTS OF OFFICES. WITH THEIR LOCATION ; ^ PLACES OF INTEREST, IN CITY AND VICINITY, ETC., ETC. ETC. AND All Other Information USEFUL TO COMPILED BY JAMES M. MULHALL PUBUSHEIH BY If^A CANADA RAILWAY NEWS COMPANY (limitcd). jj^^ SAINT JOHN, N. B. Entered aooording to Aot of Parliament of Canada, in the Year 1888, by the Canada Bailway NawB Go. (Limited), lu the Offlee of the Minister of Agriculture, Ottawa. Iliiliiiiiiiiiiiiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiii mill iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiuiiiiiliiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiim 3. A A. HOHILLAN, PRINTBB8. THE I) iLILY^ ^/\^E KI^ TELEGRAPH ST. JOHN, N. B., CANADA. The Leadinji Joarnal in tlie Maritime fpovinees. Sublpigtion in fiimn'^e. Daily $ 5 ; Weelgly $1. JOHN W. GILMOR, Manager. ).'•■»"' ^ 1/ ->/ .s>'' ^■) K''' |t v\ , / .,>^^- » A l<-,:^ ,-,'■ 'A I '^'•^^•''^- ^iTf ••J ■• • ,Csf^^*jf' > ' ^' ■ ^^W^ 'S^^ • \C. mn' '■^ ^1 •^M8/rtA:i H, ■ V \ ■ ' •■■, ... V/ ' v.; ,fl C^' v^i) ^:2> 6 ^ /»■.! ■^^/(A. r ^< T^<:-vl / ■■/. m^^ o WJeron' «M! P^x ety ■•'('ucets' 'N ,--\ ^ot.^ 4^: / ' !^^Nipi^^\|}-¥ '^. i"'ical, fominercial, nnd (ientTiil Newspaper, published ?l. JUl|ll V_ lUUl, every arttrnoon, exci'pt Suiiduy. Subscription, 36 a year. Am KiKbt-I'ngo Paper. "(^1)0 iDccldl) (fMobC," One Dollar a Year. lil^C;::!^;. " rrUrt ^iXl.tlirt" circulates In ill! parts of the country, and offers a most IJSJJIE-^ VLI)C VL^lUUC DeHirable Aledlum for Advertising. •U«lM Ellis, Robertson & Co., Publishers, 143 Pi>ince William Street, St. John, N. B. Job Printing Office in Connection. S£e Advert'Sement Above. f : fc AdVF'JITISEMENT. Ill THE OF CANADA. f The Popular and FaBhlon able Route for Canadian and United States Summer Travel. New ^ Elegant Buffet Sleeping # Parlor Gars run on all Through Trains. The^Dlrect Route from St. John for all points In Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, P. E. Island,_the Magdalene Islands^and Newfoundland ; also for Eastern and Northern New Brunswick, the Provlnce^f Quebec, and Bale des Chaleur. T^'^0LT^^^^*<'_J^J^-^^^^?^M^J^'4*®^-^^^^'' points atjowest rates; Summer Tourist and_Ronnd Trip Excursion Tickets. ^Also^ Saturday Excursion Tickets on sale between 1st June and 30th September, at very low rates. !!^ Through Express Train Cars Brilliantly Lighted by Electricity. All the famous Salmon and Trout Fishing Resorts of Canada are along this Line. .'. Tickets, and all information as to rates, routes, etc., can be had on application to GEO. PHHiPS, 97 Prince Wm. Street, and F. E. HAN- INGTON, Station Ticket Agent, St. John, N. B. A. BUSBY, D. POTTINGER, Gen. Passenger Agent, Ch^f Superintendent. Railway Offices, Moncton, N. B. IV Advertisements. 23 Carleton Street, Near Mechanics^ Institute^ St. John, N. B. ^ PHOTOGRAPHS ^^(^S^^. ■AND- LIFE SIZE PORTRAITS, ■-e*^ In Crayon, Pastel, and Water Color. A First-Class Livery Stable. Coaches at Trains and Boats. S' EjTj .i^ QUEEN HOTEL. •— *■ ^ oj-RiEtti*; '^a2(B^®iS^ FINE SAMPLE ROOMS IN CONNECTION. Advertisement. V j>G)(?| «x»X5 How Brunswick Railway. ALL-RAIL LINE BETWEEN THE Maritime Provinces f the United States, Forming:, iv^ith its Connections, a Direct Route to all parts of Northern Maine, New Brunswiclc, Nova Scotia, Oape Breton, and I'rince £dward Island. The celebrated Hunting and Fishing Grounds of the Maritime Provinces are reached via this line. THE DELIGHTFUL SUMMER RESORTS ■OF- St.Andrews, St. Stephen, Calais, Houlton, Woodstock, i'ort Fairfield, Caribou, Presque Isle, Grand Falls, Edmundston, Fredericton, and St. John are directly on the line of this railway. Points in Cape Breton, Prince Edward Island, the celebrated Annapolis Valley, Halifax, and other points in Nova Scotia, are reached directly via this route. 49" All Trains to and from St. John by this route pass over the Cantilever BriDGB across the St. John Biver, and arrive at, and depart from, the Passenger Station of the Intercolonial Railway. New Cars, Safety, Sure Connections, Comfoft, QuicliTlme, No Transfers. Pullman Sleeping Cars on night trains: Pullman Parlor Cars on day trains, run through between St. John and Bangor. EXCURSION TICKETS for the Tourist Season, to all important points East, will be on sale at principal Ticket Offices throughout the country. Secure tickets and have your baggage checked through via the New Brunswick Railway. A.J. HEATH, QCN. Passcnqcr Agent. F. W. CRAM, Gen. Manager. w^ VI A DVERTISEM EN'JS. BOOK Travelling Companion. A LFRED M ORRISEY KEEPS THE LATEST AND BEST BOOKS. I Latest Novels of Popular Writers ALWAYS ON HAND at 104 EIMQ STlllT, ST. J0MM, M. 1. THE "STAR OFTHERIVEII For Washademoak Lake. UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE, the most favorite and first-class Steamer «'STA»'» will leave her wharf, Indlantotirn, every TUESDAY, THURSDAY, and SATURDAY, at 10 a. m., and sail into a region the scenery of which any romantic or artistic eye will pronounce the most heautiful in the world, and a climate that the most fastidious will declare just perfect ; returning to her wharf on alternate days at 2 p. m. Persons wishing a rare treat should not deny themselves the pleasure of a trip on the pleasant sailing and home-like Steamer " Star." J. E. PORTER, Manager. A DV ERTIir EMENTS. (SUCCKSSOR TO J. Chalonek), VIl HID, Wholesale tRetailDrojiJiis!, 49 KING STREET, ST. JOHN. N. B. JsoTE. — My stock of Drugs, Druggists' Sundries, Patent Medicines, etc., in both departments, will be found complete and always reliable. The dispensing of Physicians' Prescriptions will only be attended to by myself and graduates of the New Brunswick Pharmaceutical Society. *^S" Patronage Solicited. "®ft Special attention given to the travelling public. ON ARRIVAL AT ST. JOHN, YOU WILL FIND GOOD Hot Meals, i GoM Lunelies, READY AT THE EXCELLENT DINING ROOM IN THE I. C. R. STATION. fi^° Opposite the Ladies' Waiting Room in Main Building. J. ^. Bailey, ppoprietoF. Vlll Advertisement. DELIGHTFULLY LOCATED, Overlooking Kino Square. HANDSOMELY APPOINTED AND Liberally Managed. t t i' 4 Peculiarly Homelike, making it very DESIRABLE FOB TOURISTS. Every Attention Oiven to COMMERCIAL TRAVELLERS. IkV -ir—^ — -... -•/; ■"ft'"-" ■^ '^ . >^- " §m<:^. ■:\^ I / ,' ^W^% \ ■- \ i\ :- \ ^-^ '-.r l^,X^:u . / Ha t .^ir \ \ > V.A v-W ::ii Ml/; /■ .' f-' \ '% " MJAi PUBMSHED BY MAmriHC STCAM LtTM. DA f(A!L\A/AV^ NENA/S C? VIU DBLIOHTFULL'S OVERLOOKINO KiN PECULIARLY HOMEU DESmABIiB F a H>. ''•■'-'-■-■■.'■ ' 1. ^ TOURISTS' uide to Saint John AND THE PROVINCE OF New Brunswick. i^«» 9 mt* Compiled by James M. Mulhall. PUBLISHED BY Canada ^aitoay Jlems Gompany (liimited). Saint JOHN, N. B. J. * A. MOUILLAlf , PB:NTBBS, ST. JOHK, N. B. Advertisement. 1wlk^ii%'^l ^ MoiitriMil View Albums, 50/. Toronto " " 50/. Quebec " " 50/. Hamilton ** *« 50/. UnlTersal " " 50/. Ottawa " " 25/. St. John " " 25/. Halifax " « 25/. Principal Cities View Albums, 25/ Royal Family " " 25/. Niagara Falls « <* 25/. Wliite Mountains " " 25/. New York " " 75/. Be sure and ask for the above beautiful View Albums. Entirely new. For sale on all Trains and at all News Stands and Bookstores. Sent postpaid to any address, on receipt of price. Canada Railwaji lews Co. ST. JOHN, N. B. 1 1 i Introductory. TT7HIS book is published for the purpose of affording to J^ tourists and others reliable information with regard to the country of which it treats : such as will render it valu- able for reference, not only for the moment, but for all time. The compiler has been influenced by no other mot've than that of affording to its readers such information as they wiJ find most valuable. ustvations. n* u Tourist Hotel, Mount Pleasant, . Owens Art Institution, Cantilever Bridge, Kiver St. John, Intercolonial Kailway Station, St. John, ... Parliament Buildings, Fredericton, University of New Brunswick, Normal School and City Hall, Fredericton, View of the Grand Falls, Victoria County, View on the Restigouche, Page. 7 9 11 17 43 45 47 57 61 (xi) Xll Contents. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Paob. The City of Saint John 1 TouriHt Hotel, Mount I'leuHant, A Tho Owens' Art Institution, 9 The KnvlronM of >Salnt John, 12 Kt. Jolin to Kastnort and Ht. Stephen, 18 raHHamaquoddy Bay, 18 (iraiid Manau, 20 Canipohello, 24 St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen, 26 St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Wood- stock and lionlton, !(! St. John to HauKor, 'M St. John to Freuerlcton — the St. JoHn Klver, ••• 34 Page. Frederlcton, 42 Washadeliioak Lake 4*J (irand Lake, IV} Kennehecrasls Bay and River, 02 Bellelsle Bay, fl2 Frederlcton to Woodstock, 52 Woo«l8tock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup, .'54 St. John to Shediac, Tit; St. John to Quebec 60 The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick, 62 The Inch Arran House, G;{ St. John to Amherst and Halifax, 76 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. American Rubber Store, 9B Bailey, J. H., vii Bookstores — McMillan's, 82 Morrlsey, Alfred vl McArthur, D., 92 Campbell, A. R 90 Canada Railway News Co., x Carpets — Harold Gilbert 89 Chamberlain, J., 100 Climo, J. S., 102 Confectionery — Kerr, 93 Woodburn, J. R. A Co 91 "Daily Sun," 81 " Daily Telegraph," Inside front cover Dining Saloon, I. C. R vii Druggist — Me Diarmld.S., vii Dry Goods— M. R. & A., 104 Ellia, Robertson & Co., ii Flewwelllng, C. H., 91 Frink, R. W. W., 93 "Globe," St. John, ii Godsoe Brothers, 85 Goodwin, A. L., 92 Gilbert, Harold 89 "Grip" Publishing Co. 90 Halifax Hotel, 1 Haniogton, Fred. E., 84 Han nan, John, 84 HigginsA Co., 86 Hotelr- Duflferin, viii Halifax, i Inch Arran, 63 Queen iv Royal, Back cover Humphrey, R. B. 103 Kerr, H. P., 93 Laundry -> American Steam 8d Macdonald & Co., 98 Maine Central Railway, 83 Manchester, Robertson & Allison, 104 Martin, W. & Son, 99 May, Jas. S. A Son, 101 Morrisey, Altred vi Moxie Nerve Food, 87 McArthur, D., 92 McLMarmid.S., vii McMillan, J. & A 82 New Brunswick Railway, v Notman, Inside back cover Owens Art Institution, 9 Phllps, Geo., 91 Photographers — Climo 102 Notman. J., Inside back cover SchoU, E., iv Portrait Artists — Macdonald dc Co., 98 Porter, J. E., vi Porter, W. A., 89 Pottft A Co 94 Queen Hotel, Frederlcton, iv Railways- Intercolonial, ill Maine Central, 83 New Brunswick, v Reed, Robert, 6 Reid, BirelyA Co., 97 Rose Publishing Co., 88 Royal Hotel, Back cover Rubber Store, ,.• 96 Scholl, E., iv Steamers—" Flushing," 86 "May Queen," 96 Union Line, 103 "Sun" PublUhingCo 81 Tailors — Campbell, A. R., 90 Higgins, W. J. & Co., 86 Martin <& Son,.. 99 May, Jas. S. &, Son, 101 Tasse, Wood A Co 95 Taylor, J. M., 94 Ticket Agon to— Hanington, F. E., 84 Phllps, Geo., 91 Toronto News Co 99 Turnbull & Co., 86 Undertaking— Chamberlain, J., 100 View Albums, x Wallis, J. S. A Son, 87 Woodburn, J. R. A Co., 91 42 4i) 50 52 52 52 . 87 . 92 vil . 82 .. Iv .. Hi .. 83 .. V .. 6 .. 97 .. 88 over . 96 =f rctacc. JTJHE traveller, on reaching St. John by the New Brunswick 1 or Intercolonial Railway, both of which are among the best equipped and best managed Railways in America, or by one of the steamships of the International Line — will, most likely, first desire to establish himself in his hotel. The Royal, on King Street, and the Dufferin, on King Square, have long been under their present management, and are both spacious and well furnished, have an admirable cuisine, and their attendants are always alert and watchful for the comfort of their guests. There are many other hotels in the City where travellers will find agreeable accommodations, but the houses that have been named are probably the most widely and most favorably known. Hack Fares in St. John are as follows : For conveying one passenger from any public stand to any part of the City, or from any one part of the City to any other part thereof, thirty cents. If coach detained, there shall be paid for every time not exceed- ing half an hour, fifty cents, and for every additional half hour after the first, fifty cents. In case any driver shall be required to cross the Ferry to Carleton, he shall, in addition to the fore- going fares, be entitled to demand and receive the ferriage for himself, his carriage and horses, both going and returning, fifteen cents. ^ The Saint John City Railway runs from Indiantown, through Main, Mill and Dock Streets, to Market Square, and through Prince William and St. James Streets to Carmarthen (xiii) XIV Preface. Street. From Haymarket Square through the City Road, Stan- ley, Winter and Wall Streets and Paradise Row to Main Street, Portland. Cars pass the Intercolonial Depot, also run to connect with the International Steamship Company's boats for Digby and An- napolis, Portland and Boston ; also connect with the Union Line steamers at Indiantown for Fredericton and intermediate points on the St. John River. Cars pass the Post Office, King Street, and Union Street every six minutes. A stage route will be run on the Douglas Road to Fairville, passing over the Suspension Bridge, giving a fine view of the great Cantilever Bridge and Falls. Visitors will find at the Railway Station a finely-appointed dining-room, and at the news and parcel room adjoining a large stock of literature, including the leading English and American magazines and newspapers, and a beautiful variety of Indian curiosities, which many are glad to take away as souvenirs of their visit. A beautiful view album of St. John, containing thirty views of the principal buildings in the City, has recently been published by the Canada Railway News Company, and will be found at the news room and at the bookstores, and may be purchased from the news agents on all trains. Tickets to all parts of the world are sold at the Station, at the Office of the N. B. Railway — corner of Dock and Union Streets, ari at the Offices of H. Chubb & Co. and George Philps, Prince William Street. The photograph gallery of Mr. SchoU, on Carleton Street, turns out excellent work, and is much visited. Other artists in the City give considerable attention to stereoscopic views of New Brunswick scenery, which may be seen at their studios. i I Preface. XV Tourists will do well to visit the Ben Lomond House, which is situated at Loch Lomond, elsewhere referred to, and is kept in connection with the Royal Hotel. They will also do well to visit the studio of John C. Miles, on Germain Street, whose views of New Brunswick scenery, in black and white, and oil and water- colours, are very justly admired. No one will fail to visit the Owens Art Gallery, which contains a large collection of paint- ings and statuary by the most famous French, Dutch, Italian and English artists, as well as numerous examples of the old masters. No lover of the beautiful in art can fail to enjoy an afternoon spent in an examination of the works that adorn its walls. Past the Gallery extends the broad avenue leading to Mount Pleasant, the summit of which is crowned by the residence of Robert Reed, Esq., with its beautiful grounds, which commands a magnificent view of the City, the Bay, the River, and the country for miles in every direction. It is proposed to convert this extensive property into a summer hotel, and as such it would surpass in attractiveness any other site on the Atlantic coast. The Queen Hotel, at Fredericton ; th^ Inch Arran, at Dal- housie ; the Beaches, at Richibucto ; the Argyll, at St. Andrews, and the Halifax, at Halifax, are first-class in every respect, and are especially commended to travellers who may visit these places. Most of the towns in the Province have comfortable hotels, and the river and lake steamers are generally well furnished, and their tables are well supplied. It is doubtful if in any other part of America the tourist can find so much rest, or so much enjoyment for so small an expenditure of money as he will find during his sojourn in the Maritime Provinces. Ixx&i of CliitrclicB in St. 3olin, Carleton anb 3Port(anb. No. ON Map. Name op Church. Rbfbbbhcc TO Map. 55 Trinity (Episcopal), Germain Street), E, 10 45 St. James' (Episcopal), Main Street, G, 10 62 St. John's (Episcopal), Carleton Street, D, 11 GO St. Mary's (Episcopal), "Waterloo Street, D, 13 59 Cathedral (Roman Catholic), Waterloo Street, D, 12 44 St. John Baptist (Roman Catholic), Main Street, G, 10 52 Centenary ( Methodist) , Princess Street, F, 11 50 Queen Square Methodist, F, 10 47 Carmarthen Street Methodist, G, 10 54 St. Andrew's (Presbyterian ), Germain Street, E, 10 56 St. John (Presbyterian), King Street, East, E, 11 60 St. David's (Presbyterian), Sidney Street, F, 10 64 St. Stephen's (Presbyterian), City Road, , C, 12 61 Calvin (Presbyterian), Carleton Street, • D, 11 53 Leinster Street Baptist, F, 11 57 Brussels Street Baptist, Germain Street Baptist, Waterloo Street Free Christian Baptist, Reformed Presbyterian, Carleton Street, E, 12 68 Congregational, Union Street, Disciples of Christ, Coburg Streat, D, 10 Carleton. 42 Church of the Assumption, Roman Catholic, G,2 43 St. Jude's, Episcopal, G,3 40 St. George's, Episcopal, ... Presbyterian, E,4 41 Free Christian Baptist, ... Methodist, E,5 40 Baptist, E,4 Portland. St. Peter's (Roman Catholic), Douglas Road, 65 St. Paul's (Ejiscopal), Valley, St. Luke's (Episcopal), Main Street, B, 12 67 Mission Chapel, Paradise Row, B, 10 * t (xvi) The £U^ of St. f olm. I rr T. JOHN, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick, il-/ and the commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occu- pies a commanding position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation for the purposes of commerce it has been termed " The Liverpool of Canada," and claims the proud position of the fourth port of the British Empire, next after Lon- don, Liverpool, and Glasgow. The city has 26,127 inhabitants (census of 1881), and the contiguous city of Portland has 15,227 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, through which streets have been cut at great expense; and the plan of the streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping currents of the St. John River. It is usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves and mills. The hill-country in the vicinity is barren but picturesque, and affords a variety of pleas- ing marine views. There are 41 churches in St. John and Port- land, of which the Church of England claims precedence in point of numbers. There are 6 banks, and 3 daily and several weekly papers. King Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. All the principal shops are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince William and Dock Sts., w^hich intersect it near the water. At the foot of the street is the Market Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary and self-exiled American Loyalists, in 1783, and founded 1 Tourists' Guide to St. John the city of St. John. From this point the street ascends a steep hill, passing the chief retail shops and hotels, with numerous fine buildings on the rebuilt district. King Square is an open space of about 3 acres in area, studded with trees, and adorned in the centre with a fountain. Before the great fire, its entrance was adorned with a pretentious triumphal arch, erected in honor of Prince Arthur's visit, and afterwards utilized for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. The City Market House is on the E., and exhi- bits the products of this region in well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on Charlotte St.) is the handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlore, and class-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. m. to 10 p. M., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost $38,000, and was dedicated in 1872, but subsequently gave signs of insta- bility, and has since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Court House and Jail are pi the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated and homely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burying Ground, containing the graves of the pioneers of the Province, with epitaphs in many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity Church extends from Germain St. to Charlotte St., near Princess St., and is the finest church-building in the Mari- time Provinces, being massively constructed of gray stone, with rambling connections, and a very striking interior. Occupying a conspicuous position near the crest of the hill, it is visible for a great distance. The first church on this site was built in 1788, and contained mural tablets and the Royal Arms from Trinity Church, New York, brought here by the Loyalists in 1783. This venerable building was destroyed in the great fire of 1877. Not far from Trinity is the Masonic Temple, a large and costly edifice of brick. The publishing house of the McMillans is on an adja- cent street, with its printing-office and bookstore. By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached. A short distance to the E., on St. James Street, is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institution, a building in Gothic And Province of New Brunswick. architecture, of red and gray sandstone. It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Province, and cost over $100,000, but it is only adequate to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. A short walk out Sydney St. or Carmarthen St. leads to the Military Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, with a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the military bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. On Sydney St., opposite Orange, stands a beautiful three-story brick build- ing, 50 X 100 feet, just completed by His Lordship Bishop Sweeny, known as Mater Misericordia Hospital. The building is fitted up with all the modern improvements, and is one of the handsomest in the city. It contains thirty bedrooms for in- mates, besides a spacious chapel, dining-rooms, and other apart- ments for public and private use. It is heated throughout by steam, and the sanitary arrangements are not excelled by any building in the Province. The hospital is used as a home for invalids or persons who, by old age, are unable to earn a living, and such other persons as His Lordship may deem fit subjects for admission. The brick used in the construction of the building, both pressed and stock, were manufactured at the kilns in Fair- ville, and are generally acknowledged to be the equal of the best Philadelphia make. Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton ferrv is seen to the r. The Post-OfRce is an elegant building of gray sandstone, at the corner of Princess St. ; opposite which is the new City Hall, a handsome stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New Bruns- wick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vicinity. The great fire of 1877, which destroyed several mil- lions' worth of property in St. John, swept this district clean, ■ 4 Tourists' Guide to St. John and many elegant new buildings have since (arisen. The Custom House is of creamy Dorchester sandstone, costing $250,000, with iron roofs and fire-proof floors, and two tall towers for the time- ball, the shipping signals, and the storm-drum. It contains sev- eral of the provincio-national offices, and a storm-signal station which receives warnings from "Old Probabilities" at Washing- ton and Toronto. The street ends at Reed's Point, the head- quarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Church, a sanctuary of the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presbyterian) ; and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Mechanics' Institute, which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Caniidian and Brit- ish newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2 J to 5 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the railway station. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is situated on Waterloo St., and is the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sandstone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and transept win- dows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over the organ-loft ; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, Luke, Augustine, and Gregory, The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. wide at the transepts. The Bishop's Palace is the fine sandstone building towards Cliff* St., beyond which is the extensive building of St. Vincent Asylum, fronting on Cliff* St., and under the control of the Sisters of Charity. On the other side of the Cathedral is the plain brick building of < ^> And Province of New Brunswick. the Ladies of the Sacred Heart. The visitor should notice, over the Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's paint- ing at Milan). From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head of Courtenay Bay. By ascending Cliff St. for a short distance, a point may be reached from which are seen the "Valley, with its churches and streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which the residence of Robert Reed, Esq., is prominent. The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which overlooks the Mareh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists of a large brick building with one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. A hospital for patients afflicted with infectious diseases has recently been erected near by, but its use has not been required. The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of $54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in remote ages the St. John River flowed down this valley from the Kennebeccasis to the sea, until finally the present chan- nel through the Narrows was opened by some convulsion of nature. That suburb which is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills of the city proper and the line of the Portland Heights. It is reached from King Square by Charlotte and Coburg Sts., and contains the tracks and station of the Inter- colonial Railway. The most prominent object in the Valley is St. Paul's Church (Episcopal), a graceful wooden edifice with transepts, a clere-story, and a tall spire. The windows are of stained glass. The brick church of St. Stephen and the Owens Art Gallery, filled with paintings and statuary, are also situated in the Valley, and the road to Lily Lake diverges to the r. from the latter. Farther to the E., on the City Road, is the Skating Rink, a round wooden building, 160 ft. in diameter, 6 Tourists' Guide to St. John covered with a domed roof. The Intercolonial Railway Station, which is one of the finest railway structures in Canada, stands at the foot of the Valley, on the main avenue of trade between St. John and Portland. It is commodious, and aside from fine waiting rooms, lavatories, etc., contains an elegantly appointed dining room, telegraph oflice, and other conveniences, the news room, where all the new books, English and American news- papers and periodicals, and Indian curiosities, are kept or hand, and where parcels and hand baggage can be left; and ticket office. TOURIST HOTEL, MOUNT PLEASANT. JTTHE Engraving on the opposite page is a prospective view of I the coming Tourist Hotel, situate on the summit of Mount Pleasant, St. John, New Brunswick. Numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 are now built, having an estimated capacity for about 100, and the other buildings in the picture, when erected, may be en- larged, or their number increased, so as to afford accommodation for 1,000 or more guests. The property is for sale, and in the hands of live, competent, and energetic management may be made the centre of a system of development which, embracing the remarkable advantages of Mount Pleasant and its surroundings for pleasure purposes, would draw within its influence, during the heated term to the South and West, a continuous summer population of many thousands to enjoy its cool and invigorating atmosphere, with its other comforts, thereby making St. John not only an attractive and fashionable Sea-side Retreat, but a grand central rendezvous and diverging centre for tourists visiting the Maritime Provinces, for which purposes — in connection with the recent rapid and ex- tended travelling facilities — it and its vicinity are geographi- cally, climatically, and otherwise by nature unequalled on the Eastern coast. While the subscriber has no objection to an out and out sale, on easy terms, he would cheerfully join any well devised organi- zation for the purpose of carrying out the -enterprise to a success- ful issue. For further particulars apply to Robert Reed. w o as a O P4 •. GO w T 8 ToiiRifsrs' Guide to St. John The site of St. Jolin wiis the Menagwea of ancient Miciuac tradition, where the divine Glooscap once had his home. Hence, during his absence, his attendants were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who fled with them to Grand Manan, Cnpe Breton, and Newfoundland, where he was pursued by Glooscap, who rode much of the way on the backs of whales which he called in from the deep sea. Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, where he iisHU.iied such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head. The evil- doing wizard was soon found and put to death, and the servants of Gloos- cap were set free. The site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and Do Monts, on St. John's Day (June 24), 1604, but was not occu[)ied for 30 years after. Cluude de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the earliest of the French adventurers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. After his repulse and humiliation, the French government divided Acadia into three provinces, placing there as gov- ernors, M. Denys, Razilly, and the young and chivalrous Charles de St. Elienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude). Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. Razilly soon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman, Charles de Menou, Sieur D'Aulnay Charnisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former employed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XHI. finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erected a fort at St. John in 1634, whence he carried on a lucrative fur trade with the Indians. In 1643 this stronghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the ship Clement, leaving his gar- rison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor with 140 Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain response from that oracle. " On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's Proverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour ; while, on the other hand, it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elisha was present, and did not reprove the King of Judah." But when they had assured themselves that it would be allowable for them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet I . I And Province of New Brunswick. _3* 9 THE OWENS ART INSTITUTION, President, Robert Reed. Principal of Art School, John HAMMO^D. MHIS Institution is one of the best Art Educational Establishments in the Dominion, X and should be visited by every stranger. Its gallery ci)iitaii).s a collection of over 8U0 Paintings, mostly the work of eminent artists ol the present and past two centuries. Its very full and complete school collection of Casts from tlie Antique are both interest- ing and instructive. Open to visitors week days from 3 to 5 p. m. Admittance 25,cents ; Children, 10 cents. The lourtu School Term opens Ist Ociobcr, 1S88, continuing 7 months. The course of study is based on the systems in use in the best art Art Schools of Europe. Terms: $:i 00 per month. 4 01 6 00 " 40 00 Drawing, 3 days in the wee'c, Painting, " " " Drawing and Painting, Full Term of 7 months, In the past the School has drawn pupils from Rothesay, Sussex, Petitcodiac, Dor- chester, Sackville, Fredericton, Woodstock, Sheffield, St. George, and St. Stephen, in New Brunswick; also representatives from Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Ontario, and the States of Maine and Massachusetts. Mr. Hammond's studio is in the same building, where his works can be seen and purchased. His artistic abilities have been endorsed bv the highest Art Trihynals in Europe, and his pictures hung with honor in thj Exhibition of the Royal Academy and the Paris Salon ; also in the National AcadL-my of Design, New York, and other leading Art Exhibitions of America. 10 Tourists' Guide to St. John that I)'Aulnay'« forces were quickly Hcattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madam La Tour. Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side (the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Island). After three days of fighting, a treacherous Swiss sentry admitted the enemy into the works ; and even then Madam La Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back to St. John some years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he eflectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror (1653). D'Aulnay died in 1G50, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built five fortresses, two seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom entered the French army, and were slain in the service. In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. .John harbor, between the French frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing the Chevalier de Villebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannonade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696, while the Chevalier de Villebon governed ..cadia from the upper St. John and hurled destructive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked by D'Iberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the Newport was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dismasted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured the Profond, with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouillan ; but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 4 bastidns and 24 pieces of artillery. In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the port by Boishdbert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war-vessels entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the magazine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned by French soldiers, but, after a short siege by an Anglo-American force, the post was surren- it 1 d. le e (1 fir T 3d se ;d \^ 12 Tourists' Guide to St. John dered at discretion. Two years later, the place was visited by James Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by the Indians. In 1764 he returned with a party of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting defensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval expedition of Americans from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old French fortifications (then called Fort Fredericks, com- pleting their work by plundering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived in the port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled " United Empire Loyalists," Americans who were loyal to King George, and could not or would not remain in the new Republic of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. John. New Brunswick was set ofl^" from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assembly was convened here. In 1787 Trinity Church wr.s founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were established on Partridge Island, r.nd in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one-third of the commercial portion of the city was burned, in- volving a loss of ,£250,000. During the boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British timber- maiket, which had ^lepended largely on the Bahic ports for its supply, was by their closing forced to draw heavily on the American Provinces. The last historic event at St. John was its occupation, in the winter of 1861, by several of the choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, the Scotch Fusiliers, eUM corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent affair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to prosper in the arts of peace and industry. The E nriroTifi o f St. lolm, T ILY LAKE is about 1 m. from King Square, and is reached i-i by crossing the Valley and ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to the r. from the Owens Art Gallery con- ducts past several villas and rural estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few minutes to the lake, a if And Province of New Brunswick. 13 led (r I beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high rocky banks. The environs are thickly studded with clumps of arbor-vitse and ever- greens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a public park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a favorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one side to the Lily Lake Falls, which are attractive in time of high water. The Marsh Road is the favorite drive for the cii-izens of St. John, and presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleighing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed of the St. John River. At 1} m. from the city the Rural Cemetery is reached. This is a pleasant ground, occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knolls, and its roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old (but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean Avenue, where, beneath uniform monuments, are buried a large number of sailors. H m. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the Three-Mile House and Moosepath Park, a half-mae course which is much used for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. I m. farther on (with the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches the Torryburn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad Kennebeccasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 m., with the high cliff called the Minister's Face on the farther shore. Passing several country seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated on the Kennebeccasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence for families from the city, and has numerous villas and picnic grounds. The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 a week). There are pleasant views from this point, including the broad and lake-like 14 Tourists' Guide to St. John Kennebeccasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. St. Patrick's Industrial School is situated three miles from the city, at Silver Falls, and is the only institution of its kind in the Province. It is a handsome brick building, 50X90 feet, with a large farm attached, and was erected by His Lordship Bishop Sweeny a few years ago. It is in charge of the Sisters of Charity. Some fifty orphan boys are provided for within its walls, and are not only given a good English education, but are thoroughly instructed in the rudiments of far Jiing, and adjoining is the residence of the attending priest. Loch Lomond is about 11 m. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturday and remain there until Monday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the city draws its water supply). There is a fine hotel near Loch Lomond — the Ben Lomond House, near the foot of the First Lake. These waters are much resorted to by trout fishers. Boats and tackle are furnished at the hotel ; and there is good shooting in iLc vicinity. The shores consist, for the most part, of low rolling iiJss, covered with forests. The First Lake is 4 X J m. in area, and is con- nected by a short stream with the Second Lake, which is nearly 2 m. long, and very narrow. The Third Lake is smaller than either of the others. "An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the narrowest part, afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its surface was calm and still ; beyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled by the broad-leaved trees v/hich covered them, and terminated at the foot of the lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Aithur's Seat, yet still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prof. Johnston. Ben Lomond, Jones', Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest ponds) are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much-visited waters of Locn Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great numbers from rafts or floats on these And Proving k of New Brunswick. 15 ponds; and the Ben Lomond House affords a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained. The Alms House is a spacious brick building on the farther side of Courtenay Bay. The road that passes this institution is prolonged as far as Mispec, traversing a diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispec is a small marine hamlet, 10 m. from St. John. 4 m. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Com- pany, an association of citizens who hare united for the purpose of securing rural homes in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract (which includes 500 acres), the chief of which is Howe's Lake, a small but pretty forest pond. The Suspension Bridge is about H m. from King Square, and most of the distance may be traversed by the Street Rail- way, passing through the city of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 feet above low water. The gorge is also spanned by a Cantilever Bridge, the second structure of the kind ever erected in America, by which the railway systems of the East and West are connected, giving uninterrupted railway communication between the Strait of Canso and San Francisco. The view of the city, the harbor, the heights of Lancaster, and the hills of Poquiock, which the bridge affords, is one of great magnificence. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls, and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. The St. John River is over 450 m. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 feet wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 feet high hemming it in on either side. The stream rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 feet, and 16 Tourists' Guide to St. John ! rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce level water at flood tide. The Suspension Bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost ^80,000. It is 640 feet long and contains 570 m. of wire, supported on four slender but solid towers. . Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the Provincial Lunatic Asylum, an extensive brick building with long wings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1848, and, with the annex since constructed, accommodates about 400 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and picturesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the landscape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored by the British War Office. Many of these works may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The view from this point is broad and beautiful, includuig St. John, with the spires of Trinity and the Cathedral most prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pretty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, extending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the North Mt.), with the deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gut. The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and graceful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. And Province of New Buunswk k. 17 -^ M 53 n o o 5?! Pi > > H > H t— t O tzi CO H «-< O a !2! cd B 18 Tourists' Guide to St. John The Fern Ledges are about 1 m. from Carleton. on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old Red Sandstone epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful im- pressions of ferns and other cryptogamous plants are found. The Mahogany* Road affords a fine drive along the Bay Shore, with a succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspension Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 m. from the city is the Four Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 m. long, and situated about 7 m. from St. John. Trout are found here in great numbers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. The Mahogany is one of the best made roads leading out of the city, and the country through which it passes is very picturesque. Many of the wealthy residents of the city have fine villas, surrounded by elegant grounds, in this delightful suburb. After leaving Spruce Lake, the road passes through Lepreaux, Pennfield, and St. George, with its granite quarries, and Lake Utopia, near by, which, because of its romantic surroundings and fishing facilities, is visited every year by hundreds of pleasure-seekers. St. Solxn to Eastjport anb St. Stcplicn. Passamaquoddy Bay. jrjHE Grand Southern Railway runs from St. John to St. I Stephen, 82 m. \V. It is not yet perfect in equipment, and is content with running in a very leisurely way down this picturesque and thinly settled coast. After leaving St. John, the steamers of the International Line, for Eastport and Boston, run S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, ♦Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word Manaioagonish, applied to the neighboring bay. And Province of New Brunswick. 19 and soon pass Split Rock, and stretch across to Point Lepreaux. The peculiarities of the coast, which is ahvays visible (in clear weather) on the N., are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner: "A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- . house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — t'ais was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances." After passing the iron-bound islets called the AVolves, the steamei's run in towards the West Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes they meet, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing boats, either drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, pur- suing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird eflfect is caused by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clouds. Soon after passing the White Horse Islet, the steamei's enter the Eastern Passage, and run to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer Isle, a rugged island, 7 m. long by 3 m. wide, with a poor soil and no good harbors. There are about 1,600 inhabitants on this island, and it is surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 300 feet, and from some of the higher hills are gained beautiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay on one side, and the Bay of Fundy on the other. On the other side are the grandly picturesque headlands of Campobello, the island which has recently become so well known as an American summer resort, particularly affected by the best people of Boston and Cambridge. The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campobello Company, and was located at Harbor de Lute, on Campobello Island. It was named Warrington, but the Welchpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The island was for some time the property of Captain Owen, of the Eoyal Navy, to whom the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Eastport can only be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner indulges in the follow- ing pleasantry : " The possession by the British of the Island of Campo- 20 Tourists' Guide to St. John i bello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowledge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Canipobello. It entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief Eastern harbors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our own harbor, except in favor- able circumstances of the tide, without begging the courtesy of a passage through British water. Why is England permitted to stretch along down our coiist in this straggling and inquisitive manner? She might almost as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our cheeks mantling with shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citi- zens, landlocked by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to possess Canipobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I am not sure but the latter would be the better course." From Eastport passengers are taken by the river steamboat to St. Andrews and St. Stephen, on the St. Croix. These are delightful border towns, the former for many years a favorite resort of summer tourists, and as it becomes better known, its popularity grows more widespread. It is likely in a few years to become one of the most distinguished resorts in the Eastern Provinces. Further reference is made to these places a few pages further on. Sranb Manan. This " Paradise of Cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 m. from the Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. The summer cliiaate is delicious, and it is claimed that invalids suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit here. The brooks and the many fresh-water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a small inn at Grand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for |4-7 a week. "As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, the flat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, And Province op New Brunswick. 21 close in by the extreme norEliern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. "As a place of summer resort, (irand Manan is in some respects un- equalled. At certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportunities for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trustworthy, and American manners and customs prevail to iuch an extent that travellers at once feel at home." — De Costa. JRHE Island of Grand Manan is 17 m. long and 3-6 m. wide, I and lies in the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, whose power- ful tides sweep impetuously by its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road which connects the liarboi*s on the E. shore, and are famous for their daring and ex- pertness in the fisheries. They have 10 schools, 8 churches (5 Free-Will Baptist, and 2 Church of England), while the advan- tages of insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and com- plete self-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, "Happy Mananites, who, Lee from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea ! " The harbors on the E. shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the great cliffs on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint simplicity which usually pertains to small and insulated mari- time communities. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for American marine painters, who find excellent studies in its picturesque cliffs and billowy seas. It was visited by Champlain in 1605, but was occupied only by the Indians for 180 years after. Colonel Allan, the American commander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it was settled by several Loyalists from Massachusetts, chief among whom was William Cheney. Grand Harbor is situated on the safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal Church of stone, and two or 22 TOUHISTS' GUIDK TO St. JoIIN three stores, besides a small inn. Ort' shore to the S. E. lie Ross, Cheney, and AVhite Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand Ponds. The South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand Harbor. At 5 m. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the 1., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 m. at sea. 4 m. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence it leads across the Downs for about 2 m. to the high and ocean-viewing cliffs of S. AV. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is called the Southern Cross. About the S. AV. Head is a favorite resort and breeding place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the grass. A forest path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in Avhich the ship Mavoimieen was wrecked. The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7-8 m. long, and is firm and well made. 1\ m. N. of Grand Harbor, Woodward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 m. beyond which is Flagg's Cove. Sprague's Cove is a pretty fishing hamlet on the S. side of SAvallow-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the picturesque cos- tumes, the breaking surf, and all the miscellaneous paraphernalia of such a place, set off, as they are, by the noble background of richly-colored cliffs, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn cliffs, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a lighthouse which holds a fixed light (visible for 17 m.) 148 feet above the sea. Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach, on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper^ and other minerals. " Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by immense cliffs that rise up around And Province of New Brunswick. 23 the border of the bhie waves, with a richness of coh)r and state- liness of aspect that cannot fail to impress tlie beholder. * * * On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the W. Eel Brook and Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and between arc the blue sky and water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashhurton was wrecked, and nearly all on board were lost (21 of them are l)uried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this point, and nearer the extreme northern cape, is the Bishop's Head, so called because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. The W. coast of Grand Manan is lined with a succession of massive cliffs, which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. These great precipices are 3-400 feet high (attaining their greatest elevation at the N. end), and form noble combinations of marine scenery. A cart-track leads across the island firoiM near Woodward's Cove to the romantic scenery about Dark Cove ; near which is Money Cove, so named because search has been made there for some of Captain Kidd's buried treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, where several lodges of the Passamaquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the shore fishery of porpoises. Still farther N. are the rocky pallisades and whirling currents of Long's Eddy. " When the cliff is brought out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, with all the accessories jf a wild ocean shore, the interest becomes absorbing. The other parts of the island are of course invested with much interest. The low eastern shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords many picturesque sights. In a pleasant day a walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, the shingle beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and reach, until he sud- denly finds that miles of ground intervene between him and his dinner." — De CosTA. "Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the very throne of the bold and romantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woods which beautify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." — L. I. Noble, Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from these shore^^ : " It is even asserted that at f of a league off Isle 24 Touhisth' Guidk to St. John Menane, which servos iis a guide to vessels to enter St. John's Kiver, there is a rock, almost always covered by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is adde^i>^iiJ:imk:^ And Province of New Brunswick. 29 Trains of the New Brunswick Railway run to and from St. Andrews, connecting with trains for Woodstock, Houlton, St. John, Bangor, Port- land, and Boston. Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews, Calais, Eastport, and Campobello, connecting at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Grand Manan, Portland, and Boston. The Chamcook Mt. is about 4 m. N. of St. Andrews, and its base is reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railwuy to the foot of the mountain). It is often ascended by parties for the sake of the view, which includes " the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the N. is hilly, with deep troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." In the year 1604 Henri IV, of France, granted a large part of America to Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Philadelphia to Quebec, and was named Acadie, which is said to be derived from a local Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, with a motley company of impressed vagabonds, gentlemen- adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy, the voyagers ascended the Passamaquoddy Bay and the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Batteries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the ravages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. Thirty-five out of 79 men died of the scurvy during the winter ; and when a supply ship arrived from France, in June, the island was abandoned. In 1783 the River St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. It then became important to find traces of De Monts' settlement of 180 years previous, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So, after long seaching among the bushes and jungle, the boundary commissioners succeeded in finding remnants of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the line. About 10 m. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the N. is seen the deep and spacious Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, and forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. ^stM:/KM-xJ,i'^^:,ii'xiL 30 Tourists' Guide to St. John It is supposed that the French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its waters at this point to a cross — the upright arm being formed by the river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is ou ined by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the bay is the populous farming village of Oak Bay, with three churches. Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duval, who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. W., in a narrow channel, between sterile shores. 2-3 m. above is the antiquated marine hamlet called The Ledge (1. bank), most of whose inhabitants are dependent on the sea for their living. 4 m. above this point the steamer reaches her dock at St. Stephen. St. Stephen is an active and enterprising town, situated at the head of navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American city of Calais. The population is about 5,000, with six churches, one newspaper, and two banks. The business of St. Stephen is mostly connected with the manufacture and shipment of lumber. The falls of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will probably be devoted to general manu- facturing purposes after the lumber supply begins to fail. A covered bridge connects St. Stephen with Calais, a small city of the State of Maine, with 6,000 inhabitants, seven churches, two weekly papers, and two banks. Although under different flags, and separated by lines of customs oflicers, St. Stephen and Calais form practically but one community, with identical pursuits and interests. Their citizens have always lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and kept an agreement by which they abstained from hostilities during the war of 1812. At that time the authorities also restrained the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence across the borders. 2-3 m. above is another Canado-American town, with large lumber mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into Milltown-St. Stephen and Milltown-Calais. Travellers who cross the river either at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage looked into by the customs officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. And Province of New Brunswick. 31 The Schoodic Lakes. A railway runs 21 ra. N. W. from Calais to Lewey's Island (2 inns), in Princeton, whence the tourist may enter the lovely and picturesque Schoodic I..akes. The steamer Glpsey carries visitors 12 m. up the lake to Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing grounds in America. The trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, pickerel, land-locked salmon, lake trout, and fine speckled trout. The Grand Lake Stream is 3-4 m. long, and connects the Grand and Big LpVes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of ^V 3 famous silvery salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest lakes usually engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portage and camp-building, and to guide their course from lake to lake. St. Andrews ^ St. Steplien to Wooi)stock ^ Hou(ton. JT^HE country traversed by the New Brunswick Railway is I one of the most irredeemably desolate regions in North America. The view from the car windows presents a con- tinual succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling with stumps, and funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree trunks. The traces of human habitation, which at wide in- tervals are seen in this gloomy land, are cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest occupants; and Nature has withheld the hills and lakes with which she rudely adorns other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a volume inviting immigration to New Brunswick, and describing its domains in language which reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism ; but in presence of the lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his pen lost its hyperbolical fervor. He says : " Except- ing the intervales of the stream, it is necessary to speak with ". (r'!»« ■l l i'T * ' " "' - ^a^^ '-y* I 32 Tourists' Guide to St. John circumspection in regard to the general quality of the lands. Many tracts are fit for littie else but pasturage." This district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of softwood forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of the hardwood districts. For a short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near the shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, affording pleasant views to the r. Then the great mass of Chamcook ISIt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and rounded summit. Waweig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay. About 7 m. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash Kiver, which it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passes on to McAdam Junction, where it intersects the St. John Division, New Brunswick Railway. There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will have time to dine while the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains from Bangor and from St. John. The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 ra. until it reaches the lumber station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canterbury, the centre of extensive operations in lum- ber. Running N. W. for 10 m., the Eel River is crossed near Rankin's Mills, and at Debec Junction the passenger changes for Woodstock. A train runs thence 8 ra. N. W. to Houlton, the shire-town of Aroostook County, in the State of Maine. The other train runs N. E. down the valley of the South Brook, and in about 6 m. emerges on the highlands above the valley of the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 m. there are beautiful views of the river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful contrast to the dreary region behind. The line soon reaches its terminus at the pretty village of Woodstock. And Province of New Brunswick. 33 ,n(ls. itrict •ests, ricts. near ws to th its parte •aches Watt he 1., irsects e is a irae to s from r 16 ra. e next in lum- jd near nges for -town of lin runs out 6 m. n River, iver and ist to the us at the St. 3oKn to Bangor. TT FTER leaving the St. John Station, the train crosses the / -*- Cantilever Bridge, recently thrown over the Falls, and passes Fairville, a growing town near the Provincial Lunatic Asylum. There are numerous lumber mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Ken- nebeccasis Bay, with its environment »f dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach are followed fo'* Several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid river and its vessels and villages. To the W. is a sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes — Loch Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. The line leaves the Long Reach and turns to the N. W. up the valley of the Nerepis River, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Welsford. The country now grows very tame and uninteresting as the Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 m. from the Clarendon Settlement, with its new homes wrested from the savage forest. From Gaspereaux a wagon conveys passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10-12 m. S. W., among the highlands, a secluded sheet of water, about 5 m. long, abound- ing in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen the train passes the prosperous village of Blissville ; and at Freder- icton Junction a connection is made for Fredericton, about 20 m. N. Tracy's Mills is the next stopping place, and is a cluster of lumber mills on the Oromocto River, which traverses the village. On either side are wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and after crossing the parish of New Maryland, the line enters Man- ners-Sutton, passes the Cork Settlement, and stops at the Harvey Settlement, a rugged district occupied by families from the bor- ders of England and Scotland. To the N. and N. W. are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, affording good fishing. A road leads 34 Tourists' Guide to St. John S. 7-8 m. from Harvey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water nearly 10 ni. long and 3-4 m. wide, where many large trout are found. The neighboring forests contain various kinds of game. Near the N. W. shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, " near the Harvey Settle- ment, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake (probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal measures, where they touch the slate." Magaguadavic Station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is about 8 m. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge; and a chain of smaller lakes lie to the N. The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction (restaurant in the station). G m. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is St. Croix, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs officers at Vanceboro. This is the station whence the beautiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. The Chiputneticook Lakes are about 45 m. in length, in a N. W. course, an(^ are from a J to 10 m. in width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of the multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which diversity of land and water aflfords beautiful combina- tions of scenery. The islands are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees ; and the bold highlands which shadow the lake are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen through the trans- parent waters or lining the shore like massive masonry. "Universal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them." -♦-•♦• '^» •♦-•*- St. Ifolbn to Frcbcricton — Tlic St. Solin fiivcr. The scenery of the St. John Kiver is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quietness. The elements of the landscapes are simple; the settlements are few and small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violentlv drawn to any passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Beach, at Belleisle Bay, and during the approach to Fredericton, but the And Province of New Brunswick. 85 prevalent character of the scenery is tliat of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on a balmy summer day. If the traveller would enjoy a tranquilizing and luxurious journey through a pretty farm- ing country, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. This river was called Looshtook (Long River) by the Etchemin Indians, and Ouangoudie by the Micmacs. It is supposed to have been visited by De Monts, or other explorers, at an early day, and in the commission of the year 1598 to the Lieutenant General of Acadia it is called La Bivi^re de la Grande liaie. But no examination was made of the upper waters until vSt. John's Day, 1604, when the French fleet under De Monts and Poutrincourt entered the great river. In honor of the saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John After spending several weeks in ascending the stream and its connected waters, the discoverers sailed away to the south, bearing a good report of the chief river of Acadia. De Monts expected to find by this course a near route to Tadousac, on the Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. "Tiie extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its banks, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 m. in length, being navigable for steamers of 1,000 tons for 90 m., for light draught steamers 270 m. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near the sources of the Penobscot and the Chaudiere; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch the Indian voyayeurs carry their canoes across the Mejarmette Portage and launch them in the Chaudiere, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for over 150 m. through the Maine foiest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and other large streams; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearly to the Grand Falls, a distance of 75 m., it forms the frontier between the United States and Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of being " the most finely watered country in the world." At Madawaska the course changes from N. E. to S. E., and the sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are travereed, with large tributaries coming in on either side During the last 50 m. of its course it receives the waters of the great basins of the Grand and Washademoak Lakes and the Belleisle and Kennebec- casis Bays, which have a parallel direction to the N. E., and afibrd good I 4 86 Tourists' Guide to St. John facilities for inland navigation. The tributary streams are connected with those of the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (which will be mentioned in connection with their points of departure). IMMEDIATELY after leaving the dock at St. John, a fine retrospect is given of the dark chasm below, over which is the light and graceful Suspension Bridge. Running up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large lumber mills. On the r. is Boar's Head, a picturesque rocky promontory, in whose sides are quar_ ries of limestone; 3-4 m. above Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, and South Bay is seen opening on the 1. rear. The Kennebeccasis Bay is now seen, opening to the N. E. This noble sheet of water is from 1 to 4 m. wide, and is navigable for large vessels for over 20 m. It receives the Kennebeccasis and Hammond Rivers, and contains several islands, the chief of which. Long Island, is 5 m. long, and is opposite the village of Rothesay. The E. shore is followed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. kennp:beccasis bay. Out of the evergreen forests, That stretch to the north away, The winds come sobbing and sighing O'er Kennebeccasis Bay ; And out from the frowning and angry And ashen clouds that bend O'er the frozen Kennebeccasis, Great flakes of snow descend. On the banks of the Kennebeccasis, 'Neath the snowdrifts, cold and deep, The violets fold their petals, The sires of the hamlet sleep ; But again shall the violets blossom When winter rolls awav, And they shall awake who slumber By Kennebeccasis Bay. And Province of New Brunswick. 37 'Tis weary to see the snow fall, And weary to walk alone, A shadow snrro.inded by shadows, When till springtime of life is gone ; But the shadows shall melt as the clouds melt, And weariness puKs away, As sure as the flowers shall blossom again By Kennebeccasis Bay. — ILL. Spencer. The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly emptied by two mouths — through the Kennebeccasis and the Marsh Valley, and through South Bay into Manawagonish Bay — and that the breaking down of the present channel through the lofty hills W. of St. John is an event quite recent in geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barrier of hills was once unbroken, and served to divert the stream. On the banks of the placid Kennebeccasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the home of the Great Beaver " feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally conquered and put to death. In this vicinity dv. elt the two Great Brothers, Glooscap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and in- vincible power. Glooscap knew that lils brother was vulnerable only by the touch of a fern-root, and he had told Malsunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl's feather would kill him. It came to pass that Malsunsis deter- mined to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mike-o, the Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-e-sis, the son of the Great Beaver, or by his own evil ambition) ; wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke and reproached Malsunsis, but afterwards told him that a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. Then the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, and while he slept he smote him with a pine root. But the cautious Glooscap arose unharmed, and drove Mal- sunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brookside and said to himself: "Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash, the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them tc Malsunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. There- fore did Musquash say: "Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered : " Get thee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pij. eon wings?" and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp of G loose ap, to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, Glooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide and gloomy forest ; lii 38 Tourists' Guide to St. John i! and whi'ii he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. "And (ilooscap sang a song over him and lamented." Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled .all beasts and men. And tliere came unto him three brothers seeking that lie would give them great strength and long life and much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they might benefit and counsel men and be glori- ous in battle. But they said: "No; we seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he ofTered unto them success in battle, know- ledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and said : " iio your ways ; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, " lo ! their feet be- came rooted to the ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were tnineJ into three cedar trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond the days of men, b'lt destitino alike of all glory and of all use." Occasional glirrpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. is the large island of Kennebeccasis, which is separated from the Kingston Peninsula by the Milkish Channel* Then the shores of Land's End are passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis River. At this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridges of the Nerepis Hills crosses the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belle- isle Bay. The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to N. E. and enters the Long Reach, a broad aiii straight expanse of the river, 16 m. lor^g and 1-3 m. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake-like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwich Hill, on the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the Devil's Back, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nerepis Valley. Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small hamlet clustered about a taii-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Foster's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point, with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal Church of St. Paul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn ;^^ tacked all along the shore. And Province of New Bkunswick. 39 The stoainer now passes through tlie contracted channel off Mis- taken Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which project towards each other from the opposite shores. Belleisle Bay turns to the N. E. juHt above Mistaken Toint. The estuary is nearly hidden by a low island and by a rounded proinoutory on the r., beyond whicli the bay extends to the N. K. for 1*2-14 ni., with a uniform width of 1 m. It is navigable for the largest vessels, and is bor- dered by wooded hills. On the S. shore, near the niotuh, is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about ') m. to Kingston (two inns), a secpiestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantieally situated among the hills in the centre of the peninsular jtarish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an almost uniform width of ')-() m. for .30 m., between the Kennebeecasis Bay and river on the 8. K., antl the Long Keaeh and Belleisle Bay on the N. W. The scenery, though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water views. A few miles K. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called the Pickwaakeet, occupying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was originally settled by American Loyal- ists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of Kings County. The village is most easily reached from Kothesay. Tennant's Cove is a small Bajjtist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay, whence a road leads in 5 m. to the handet of Belleisle Bay on the N. shore (nearly opposite Long's Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 8-4 m. to the larger Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. John. 4 m. beyond is Springfield (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated near the head of the bay, and 7 m. from Norton, on the Intercolonial Railway. At the head of the Long Reach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. and N. W., and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 ra. above Belleisle Bay, Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding hamlet of Wickhara. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Hampstead, with several- mills and a granite quarry. The shores of the river now become-, more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island are coasted for nearly 5 m. This pretty island is dotted with elm trees, and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 3 m. long and 1-2 m. wide. !^ i; i 40 Tourists' Guide to St. John connected with the St. John by a narrow passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a large pond, and hiding the outlet of the Washademoak Lake, '' This part of the Province, incl.;ding the lands around the Grand Lake and along the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich coun- try. A great proportion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty near the Grand Lake. * * * No part of America can exhibit greater l)eauty or more luxuriant fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." — McGregor's Sritisli America. After passing the Upper Musquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at Gagetown (two inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. bank of the river. It is the shire- town of Queen's County, and is the shipping point for a broad tract of farming country. After leaving this point the steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg River. About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at the mouth of the Jemseg a fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guris and 6 " murtherers." It was provided with a court of guard, stone barracks and magazines, a garden, and a chapel " 6 paces square, with a bell weighing 18 pounds." In 1054 it was captured by an expedition sent out by Oliver Cromwell, but was yielded up by Sir Thomas Temple to the Seigneur de Soulanges et Marson in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by "a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemseg was granted by the French Crown to the ancient Breton family of Damour des ChafFour. In 1686 it was occu- pied by the seignorial family, and in 1698 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis de Yaudreuil, who had 116 colonists in the domain of Jemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, under the command of M. de Villebon ; and after the removal of the seat of government to Fort Nash- waak (Fredericton), the Jemseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of British attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian war- riors gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John valley, but were deterred by the resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally appeased and quieted by large presents. The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake. Beyond this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon / And Province of New Brunswick. 41 / passes the hamle^^s of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Manger's Island is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield. " The whole river-front of the parishes of Maugerville, Sheffield, and Waterborough, an extent of nearly 30 m., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly resembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the river generally about 2 m. This tract of intervale, in- cluding the three noble islands opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." t Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 m. long, and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable for 22 m. The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on the St. John Kiver. It was established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and Connecticut, and had over 100 families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabitants of Sunbury County assembled at Mauger- ville, and resolved that the Colonial policy of the British Parliament was wrong ; that the United Provinces were justified in resisting it ; that the county sliould be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and money should be raised for the American service ; saying also : " We are Ready with our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it.' These resolu- tions were signed by all but 12 of the people, and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detach- ment of Massachusetts troops, ascended the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was joined by nearly 50 men. Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose great cemeteries has recently been found here. When the hostile tribes concentrated ou the Jemseg during the Revolutionary War, and were preparing to devastate the riyer towns, the colonists erected a large fortifi- cation near the mouth of tlu Oromocto, and took refuge there. They made such a bold front that the Indians retired and disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. "The rich meadows are decorated with stuttly elms a id forest trees, or sheltered by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. f in i 42 Tourists' Guidk to St. John Through the numerous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing tlie river, sees the white fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and, from tlie constant change of position, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's eye. During the summer season the surface of the water affords an interesting spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved downwards by the current. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the lumberman, with his family, a cow, and occasionally a haystack, all destined for the city below. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the rteamboat break the polished surface of the stream and send it rippling to the shore. In the midst of this landscape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and culti- vated scenery," — Gp:sker. I'lS H I FREDERICTON. Fredericton, the capital of the Province of New Bruns- wick, is a small city jileasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. In 1882 it had 6,000 inhabitants, with five newspapers and a bank. It is probably the quietest place of its size north of the Potomac River. The streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are lined with fine old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, but serves as a shipping point and depot of supplies for the young settlements to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. Queen Street is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel with the river. At its W.end is the Government House, a plain and spacious stone building, situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official residence of the Lieutenant Gov- ernor of New Brunswick. Nearly in the middle of the city, and between Queen Street and the river, are the military grounds and parade ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 1,000 men), which werb formerly the headquarters of the British army in this Province. Near the E. end of Queen Street is the Parliament Building, a handsome modern freestone structure, from whose top a fine view is obtained. It contains the spacious halls of the Lower House, Legislative Council, and Supreme ii I And Province op New Brunswick. 43 M > w H W !zi Q j» ►n ft W o w ft M o H o td y in I 44 Tourists' Guide to St. John 1 r. 1 1 p I' Court (with its law library). The Legislative Library, in a fire- proof building adjacent, contains 15,000 volumes, including Louis Philippe's copy of Audubon's "Birds" (open during ses- sion, and on Wednesday afternoons). The chief wealth of Fredericton is employed in lumbering, and there are great booms above and below the city, with an important British and West Indian trade. Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance bevond the Par- liament Building, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river (corner of Church and Queen Streets). It is under the direct care of the Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled after that of Christ Church Cathedral at Montreal. The beauty of the English Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone spire, 178 feet high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a superb window of Newcastle stained glass, presented by the Episcopal Church in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ crucified, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, and Andrew on the r. In the Cathedral tower is a chime of eight bells, each of which bears the inscription : "Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Fill, Lux, Salvator, Ave Spiritus Consolator, Ave Beata Unitas. Ave SimpleXv Ave Trine, Ave Regnans in Sublime, Ave Resonet sine fine, Ave Saneta Trinitas." St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church at the W. end ; and in 1883 the Baptists and Presbyterians erected fine stone churches. Between Queen Street and the river are the substantial City Hall and Post Office, and the well equipped Normal School, where the teachers of the Province are trained. The University of New Brunswick is a substantial freestone building, 170 feet long and 60 feet wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep around the city on the S. It was estab- lished by royal charter in 1828, while Sir Howard Douglas ruled d t2S Kl o td c5 1-1 O w 9 o And Province of New Brunswick. 45 d H H O H Cd !25 so K M o 40 Tourists' Guide to 8t. John the Province, and was for many years a source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institution w'hich had been paid for by the whole people. It is fairly en- dowed by the Province, and does an important work in carrying on the higher education of the country, despite the competition of denominational colleges. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston : "From tlie high ground above Frederieton I again felt how very de- lightful it is to feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and perpetual pines, upon the beautiful River St. John, * * * Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on ; full to its banks, and reflecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its shores, it has all the beauty of a long lake withoiit its lifelessness. But its accessories are as yet chiefly those of nature — wooded ranges of hills varied in outline, now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clearing and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, and stray cattle. * * * In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my mind some of the points on the Russian river (Neva), though among European scenery, in its broad waters and forests of l^ines, it most resembled the tamer portions of the sea-arms and fiords of Sweden and Norway." St. Mary's and Gibson are opposite Frederieton, on the 1. bank of the St. John, and are reached by a bridge, recently con- structed, which is so high above the water that small steamers pass beneath it. Here is the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock), and here also are the great lumber and cotton mills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfort- able homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled by disbanded soldiers of the old Black Watch (42nd Highlanders). In the year 1690 the French Government sent out the Chevalier de Villebon as the Governor of Acadia. When he arrived at Port Royal (Annapolis), his capital, he found that Sir William Phipps' New-England fleet had recently captured and destroyed its fortifications, so he ascended And Province of New Brunswick. 47 o a to H O W 48 Tourists' Guide to St. John the St. John River, and soon fixed his capital at Nashwaak, wliere he remained for several years, organizing Indian forays on the settlements of Maine. In October, 1696, an Anglo-American arn^y ascended the St. John in the ships Arundel, Province, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de Villebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusisism, and the detachments were put in charge of the Sieurs de la C6te, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three days a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire from La COte's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and, after seeing the Sieur de la Falaise re- inforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated down the river. The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of P'ort Niishwaak. Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1604, during his ex- l>Ioration of the river. In 1757 (and later) this place was crowded with Acadian refugees, fleeing from the stern visitations of angry New England on tlie Minas and Port Royal districts. In 1784 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following year Governor Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of the Canadhin Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British gar- rison, Fredcricton has become dormant. Seven miles above Fredericton is Aukpaque, the favorite home-district of the ancient Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful ex- panse of the river caused by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quarters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expedition of Colonel Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th June, and saluted the new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Ambrose St^ Aubin, their "august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from below, and Colonel Allan led away about 500 people — patriot Provincials, Indians, and their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductic, whence they carried their boats, families, and household goods across a long portage ; then they And Province of New Brunswick. 49 ascended tlie rapid Eel Kiver to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 m, led them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand Lake; and encamped for several days at its out- let, after which they descended the Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into the Lower Schoodic Lake, and thence carried their families and goods to the head waters of the Machias River. Floating down that stream, they reached Machias* in time to aid in beating off" the Rritish squadron from that town. \ V ashatlcmoali LaW. JWHE steamboat ascends the St. John River to the upper end I of Long Island, where it turns ^o the N. E. in a narrow passage between the Lower Mu.squash Island and the shores of Wickhara. On either side are wide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread fertilizing soil ; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened by clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for H m., the steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 m. wide. The Washademoak is not properly a lake, but is the broadening of the river of the same name, which maintains a width of from i m. to 2 m. from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25-30 m. It is deep and still, and has but IHtle current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts descend the lake from the upper rivers and from the head-waters of the Cocagne, and pass down to St. John. The scenery is rather tame, being that of alluvial lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are 10 small hamlets with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming and freighting cordwood to Saint John. A bout 6 m. above McDonald's Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. E., running down for about 3 ra. into the Parish of Wick- * Mackias is said to be derived from the French word Mages (meaning the Magi), itiid it is held that it was diecovored by the ancient French explorers on the Festival of the Magi. D 60 Tourists' Gude to St. John ham ; and 4-5 m. farther on are the Narrows, where the lake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluft' projecting from the E. shore. Cole's Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 m. from Apohaqui, on the Intercolonial Railway. Roads run across the peninsula on the N. \V. to Grand Lake in t5-7 m. It is 38 m. from Colo's Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Railway, by way of Brook vale, The Forks, and New Canaafi. Grant) ILalxe. QRAND LAKE is 30 ra. long, and from 3 to 9 m. wide. It has a tide of 6 inches, caused by the backwater of the St. John River, thrown up by the high tides of the Lay of Fundy. The lands in this vicinity were gianted at an early date to the Sieur de Freneuse, a young Parisian, the Hon of that Si«'iir de Clignancourt who was so active in settling the St. John Valley, and in defending it against the New-Englanders. On Charlevoi v's map (dated 1774) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneuse, and a village of the same name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores were a favorite camping-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the agricultural interests of a new country, has sla'kined on account of the exhaustion of the forests on the Salmon Ei ver ; nd it is now thouglit that a farming population will ere long occupy the Grand Lake country. The steamer ascends the St. John River as far as Gagetown, where it makes a brief stop. She then crosses to the mouth of the Jemseg, where the Jemseg River is entered, and is followed through its narrow, tortuous, and picturesque course of 4 ra. This is the most interesting part of the journey. When nearly through the passage the boat stops before the compact hamlet of Jemseg, occupying the slope of a hill on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in front, with low and level shores denuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotchtown (150 inhabitants), near which is a channel cut through the alluvium, And PRoviJfcii: of New Brunswick. 51 leading (in 2 m.) to Maquapit Lake, which is 5 in. long and 2-3 ra. wide. This channel is called the Thoroughfare ; is passable by large boats; and leads througli groves of clra, birch, and maple trees. 1 m. from the W. end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another "Thoroughfare," and 3-4 m. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This lake is 5-6 m. from Sheffield, on the St. John River. Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white lighthouse rising from the E. shore ; and the steanoer passes around into White's Covt , where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabi- tants. Thence the Lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curious little harbor near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill Cove, and Wiggins' Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove, the boat rounds Cumber- land Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the Bay Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the lake are entered. At Newcastle and other points in this vicinity, attempts have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of v irand Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good quality and in thick seams. But little has vet been done in the way of mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is ascended for several miles, through the depressing influence's of ruined forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal Mines, the boat ties up for the night at Chipman, where there are two small hotels. Briggs' Corner is at the head of navigation, and a road runs tlience N. E. across the wilderness to Bichibucto, in 50-60 m. 52 Tourists' Guidk to St. John Kennel) ennebeccasis Cav anci Hi luer. JWOUIUSTS will find the scenery of Kennebeccasis Bay and I River surpassingly beautiful. Three times a week the steamer Clifton makes the round trip between St. John and Hampton (28 m.), and no pleasure-seeker should fail to avail of the opportunity to visit this picturesque section of the Province. Clifton, on the left shore of the Bay, is one of the most charm- ingly situated villages in the Province, and the mountains between which the river winds as Hampton is approached, are wonderfully grand in their summer or autunni foliage. Bcdcisfc Ba^\ JRHIS beautiful sheet of water is reached from St. John by I the steamer Belleisle, which makes tri- weekly trips to Hat- field's Point, 40 m. from St. Jolm. Lovers of quiet rural scenery will most heartily enjoy a day's trip up the Belleisle, which has some features in its scenery which are quite distinct from those of the other inland waters of the Province. Ficilcncton to Woobsfoch. Beyond Woodstock Junction the N. B. Railway runs N. to Ilartland (til m. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 m.), and thence to Tobique and the upper St. Jolin Valley. TT S the train moves out from Gibson, on the opposite bank of /^ ■*- the river from Fredericton, pleasant views are affored of the prosperous and happy settlements which have been founded here by Mr. Gibson, the lumber merchant. Glimpses of Fredericton And Provinck of New Bkuxswick. 53 are obtained on the 1., and beyond St. Mary's the Nasliwaaksis Iviver is crossed. Tiien follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon wliich are clusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of Springhill ; and the broad exj)anse of Sugar Island crosses the river a little way up. At about ]0 ni. from Fredericton the line changes its course froi)i \V". to N. W., and leaves the St. ilohn Valley, ascending the Valley of the Keswick — a district which is beginning to show the rewards of the arduous labors of its early pioneers. The Keswick Valley was settled in 1788, by the disbanded American loyalist corps of New York and the Uoyal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking the remoter back country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, and has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on the 1. bank, reaching for 8-10 m. from its mouth. From Cardigan Station a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and unpromising, and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left behind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond Newburgh. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden railway bridge, Woodstock, the capital of Carleton County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is over 2,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluff over the St. John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church of St. Gertrude are on Main Street, where are also the chief buildings of the town. The Academy called Woodstock College is located here. The country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of a rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is a calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other part of New Brunswick. The bold bluffs over the !: •^, Vi m. 4\ 54 Tourists' Guide to St. John St. John are generally well wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw-mills at the mouth of the Meduxnekeag, where the timber which is cut on its upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 m. from Woodstock is the American village of Houlton, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine ; and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, bo*h in its architecture and its society. ootlstock fo Granb Fa((s anb miucrc bu Loup. ill! It ; The New Brunswick Railway runs up the valley, from Woodstock to Edraundston, through a rather picturesque and diversified country, with charming river-views, and furnishing access to very good fisliing grounds. Along tjie 73 m., where the St. John forms the international boundary, ex- tending from 2^ m. above Grand Falls to Edmundston, the scenery is very pleasing, with bold hills enclosing lake-like reaches of river, graceful islands, and fair meadows. J j (HE road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and I in an attractive country. *' It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are those of the lowland parts of Perth- shire, though the luxuriant vegetation — tall crops of maize, ripening fields of golden wheat, and fine well-grown hardwood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and clumps are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through birches that carried me back to Dee- side." — Hon. Arthur Gordon. The train runs out E. from Woodstock across the St. John valley to Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, where it turns JN". on the main line, and runs rabidly through the forest, emerging upon the meadows of the St. John, which are followed for a And Province of New Brunswick. 55 hundred miles. Victoria and Middle Simonds are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricultural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville is a pretty village, "perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West India Rangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. " Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, winding along the bank of the St. John, or through woody glens that combine to my eye Soraersetsl-ire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part of south-western Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the valley, showing the geological clianges in the level of the river. 5 m. S, W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 feet high, which over- looks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cleared bv the Commissioners of 1794. From Florenceville the train runs N. 3 m. to Kent, where a road leads across in 15 m. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and fishermen descend the great river, 60 ni., to Boies- town, through rich hill and fore'st scenery, and with the best of salmon and trout fishing. Beyond the long-drawn to«"n of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant (but rather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated in Indian tradition ; and reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and cheerfulness to the land- scape. Tobique, otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly situated on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opposite the mouth of the Tobique River. It has 400 inhabitants and two churches, and is the chief depot of supplies for the lumbering camps on the Tobique River. Nearly opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the bluff at the confluence of the rivers. I 66 TouuLSTs' Guide tg St. John \ Thev have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the tribe engage in lumbering and boating. Grand Fall?!, the central point of the upper St. John region, once a British garrison, and now capital of Victoria County, has latterly become famous as a watering-place, the attractions being the noble river and gorge and hill scenery adjacent, the summer coolness, beautiful drives, fine fishing grounds, etc. The pretty little village, with its three churches, stands on a square penin- sular plateau, with the river on three sides, and a dry ravine on the fourth. The immensely wide Broadway runs from the rail- way to the bridge. The diverse manners of the French habitans and Danish immigrants are worthy of observation. Partridges and wild ducks abound here, in the fall, and furnish good sport; and the strawberries of July are delicious. The Falls are at their best in May, when magnificent convulsions of the flooded river are seen. A month later, the logs conie down. Besides the view from the bridge, the Falls and the gorge should be seen from the old mill above, from the Wells (5 huge eroded pot-holes, with grand prospect of the caiion and rapids), and from Lover's Leap, over the profound Falls-Brook Basin. The scenery is majestic and awe-inspiring. There are lovely views from the mountain W. of (and 700 feet above) the village, including Blue Bell, Bald Head, and the long lines of the Salmon River and Blue Mts. The Grand Falls are n' \r the village, and form the most im- posing cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin above, affording a landing-place for descend- i^«3 canoes ; then hurries its massive current into a narrow rock- bound gorge, in which it slants down an incline of 6 feet, and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 58 feet high. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps from the front and from both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the outer ledges. Below the cataract the river whirls and whitens for 'I m. through a rugged gorge 250 feet wide, whose walls of dark rock are from 100 to 240 feet high. " It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by And Province of New Buunswick. 57 < M o H a w O w b ? H O w o o H W 58 Tourists' Guide to St. John I I ! boiling eddies and whirlpools always in motion ; at last the water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its original features." Within the gorge the river falls 58 feet more, and the rugged shores are strewn with the wrecks of lumber-rafts which have become entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Falls when a raft is about passing over. J m. below the Falls is the dangerous Rapid de Femme. Small steamers have been placed on the river above the Falls, and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, 65 m. distant. It is a tradition of the Micmacs that in a remote age two families of the:, iribe were on the upper St. John hunting, and were surprised by a war-party of the strange and dreiided Northern Indians. Tlie latter were descending tlie river to attack the lower Micmac villages, and forced the captured women to pilot them down. A few miles above the falls they asked their unwilling guides if the stream was all smooth below, and on receiving an affirmative answer, lashed the canoes together into a raft, and went to sleep, exhausted with their march. When near the Grand Falls the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while the hostile warriors, wrapped in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, only to awaken when escape was impossible. Their bodies were stripped by the Micmacs on the river below, and the brave women were ever afterward held in high honor by the tribe. Crossing the St. John at Grand Falls, the line ascends the E. bank of the stream, and soon enters the Acadia-French settle- ments and farming-districts. 8-10 m. up the road in the village of St. Leonard, nearly all of whose people are French ; and on the American shore (for the St. John River is for many leagues the frontier between the nations) is the similarly constituted vil- lage of Van Buren. This district is largely peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michaud families. The Hon. Arthur Gordon tiius describes .yj's ot i\v'»i- \cadian homes near (trand River (in 1863) : ** The whole aspor * o^ i' v farm was that of a metairie in Normandy ; the outer doors of the liuu;-v gaudily painted, the panels of a different color front the frame; the i;ii;.',«, open, uncarpet'^d room, with its bare snining floor; the lasses at lae spinning-wheel; the French costume and appearunce of Mndanxe Violette and lier sons arid daughters, all carried me back to the other side of the Atlantic." } And Province of New Brunswick. 59 St. Holm io Shcbiac. ^ASSENGERS for Shediac and Point dii Ch6ne change cars M at Painsec Junction, and pass to tlie N. E. over a level country. Shediac is a village of 500 inhabitants, with 3 Churches — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Shediac, and St. Andrews, the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican ('hurch. The town is well situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Osirea caiiadenms) of the adjacent waters are also exported to the Provincial cities. Shediac was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, and itn interests are represented by a weekly paper called The Moniteur Acadien. Point du Chene is 2 m. N. E. of Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port nearest to St. John. It is a village of about 200 inhabitants, and has long piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passengers embark on the steamei*s for Prince Edward Island. Daily steamers run from Point du ('bene to Summerside, P. E. I., where they make connections with the trains of the P. E. I. Rail- Avay for Charlottetown and all parts of the Island. Passengers leave St. John at 8 a. m., and reach Charlottetown at 8 p. m. i. ■--i. . ■ : ■»•.;■ 60 Tourists* Guide to St. John St. John to Quebec. 1 ' 1 rOK nearly HO in., from iNEonoton to Newcastle, the route lies over a dull country (railway from Kent Junction to Riclii- bucto). Steamers run hence to Chatham (also a brancli railway) and up the Miramichi, and carriages .SO ni. to the hotel on the Tahusintac, famous for great sea-trout. The railway crosses the Miramidii on immense iron bridges, carried by 12 stone piei-s, and runs for nearly 50 m. to Bathui*st, where it crosses the Nepisiguit on a long bridge of English iron. The scenery is nuich liner as the train moves on, with frequent glimpses of the Bay of Chaleur, for 50 m., to Dalhousie, 9 m. beyond which is Campbellton, with its railway dining-room. Charming s(^enery follows, and the line crosses the Restigouche River on a noble iron bridge, and enters the Province of Quebec. Beyond the hamiet of Meta])edla, the line begins the long ascent of the Metapedia valley, a stretch of 70 m. of wild, mountain- girt, island-dotted, Scottish scenery, with no villages or towns, or hotels. Lake Metai)edia affords a beautiful sight, and abounds in fish and game. \'^ast forests hem in ths road on every side, stretching for many leagues along the dreary and uninhabited highlands. About the only product of the region is salmon, of which the long and rapid streams are full, and so unsophisticated are these huge fish that they are captured by the simplest I)rocesses. Sayabec, a few miles farther on, through the woods, is a lonely station at the crossing of the old military road from Quebec to New Brunswick. A long up-grade leads thence to Malphet Lake, and soon reaches the Tartigon River, which it follows down to the village of the same name. A dreary stretch of track follows, partly obscured in deep rocky cuttings, and partly running through the debris of burned forests, and conducting, at last, to the shores of the St. Lawrence River, by the Metis Falls and the great cuttings near St. Octave, which is the Station for the Grand and Little Metis, famous salmon -streams, where good i! ^^■;i.. And Province of New Brunswick. 61 I I 62 Tourists' Guide to St. John hunting is found. There is a large summer hotel at Little Metis. The Grand Metis River is crossed by a long, lofty and costly railway bridge, supported on high stone abutments, a mile or two below which is the Grand Metis Fall, where the river descends 75 feet at a single plunge. A few miles beyond is St. Flavie, where the route enters the more thickly settled French country along the St. Lawrence. I I The Bap of CKaleur anb tlic Nortli Shore o[ Neu7 Brunswick CTINCE the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, the ^ routes of Provincial travel have undergone many important changes, particularly round the N. shore of New Brunswick, where the trains on this great route have supplanted the ser- vices of the steamships. The regular steamship lines between Quebec and Prince Edward Island, which used to serve these ports, now no more visit the shores of New Brunswick. The following account is preserved for the use of travellers by sea, although the descriptions of the towns were revised in 1886. The Quebec steamships do not now go up the Bay of Chaleur, but the account of the Bay is retained for the use of voyagers by other vessels. A steambojit of the St. Lawrence Steam Naviga- tion Co. leaves Campbellton every AVednesday and Saturday, at 5 a. m., and runs out to Carleton, New Richmond, New Carlisle, Paspebiac, Port Daniel, Newport, Grand River, Perc^ and Gasp6 Basin. The steamship leaves the long railway wharf at Point du Ch^ne, and passes the low shores of Shediac Island on the 1. The course is laid well out into the Northumberland Strait. Between Shediac Point and Cape Egmont (on Prince Edward Island) the strait is nearly 20 m. wide. On the 1. the harbors of Cocagne And Province of New Brunswick. C3 CANADA'S Healthiest Summer Resort. Patroiiiz«Ml by His Excellency the ManjiiiH of I.un.xdowne, Governor General of Canada; Sir John A. Macilonald, Prime Minister; Sir (ienrne Stephen, Hart; Sir Donald A. Smith; Sir Niidrew Stewart, Chief Justice of Quebec, and other distin^'tiisiied person!* and their families. Wart. 3-4 m. farther on, the couree is between Oak Point, with its two lighthouses (on the r. ), and (^heval Point, beyond which is the populous valley ut' the Napan Kiver, on the S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., and oH" Point Napan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying across the moutli of the river. The vessel now enters the Miramichi Kiver, and on the r. is the estuury of the (treat Bartibog, with the beacon-lights on jNIahrobn Point. The Miramichi is here a noble stream, fully 1 m. wid(!, but flowing between h)W and unin- teresting shores. (v^hatham is the chief town on the North Shore, and has a l)0})ulati()n of nearly 3,000, with 5 churches, a weekly and semi- weekly newspa])er, and a Masonic Hall. It is 24 m. from the sea, and is built along the S. shore of the river for a distance of li ni. On the summit of the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic institutions, annrng which are the Cathedral of St. Michael, the convent and hospital of the Hotel Dieu de Chatham, and St. Michael's Cdlege. These buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries of Chatham are Khipbuilding and the exporta- tion of fish and hnnber, and the river here usually contains several large ships, which can anchor off' the wharves in 6-8 fatiioms. ■r' '. About 22 m. beyond Chatham are the liead waters of tlie Tabusintac River, "the sportsman's paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abundance of trout is found. E IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) <^^^ 1.0 IfK- l.l 1.25 125 ^ |i£ ■ 2.2 «IUU 1 2.0 1.8 U IIIIII.6 ^ o 7 PhoiDgraphic Sciences Corporalion 23 WfST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. I49M (716)«79-4S03 fe% i 6^ ^ ii 66 TOUKISTS' GUIDK TO St. JoHX ! Tri-weekly stages run from Chatham, N. E. to Oak Point, 11 m. ; Burnt Church, 20 ; Neguac, 25 ; Tabusintac, 37 ; Traradie, o2 ; Poekmouche, 64 ; Shippegan, 70; and Caraquette (Lower) 73. The first 30 m. of this road are along (or near) the N. shore of the Miramichi Eiver and the Inner Bay, by the hamiets of Oak Point and Burnt Chureli. Burnt Church is still the capital of the Micmac Indians of tlie Prov- ince, and here they gather in large numbers on St. Anne's Day, and engage in religious rites and athletic sports and dances. Hon. Arthur Gordon says : " I was surprised by the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the Greek peasantry. Even the costumes were in some degree similar, and I noticed more than one short colored-silk jacket and handkerchief-bound head that carried me back to Ithaca and Paxo." — Vacation Tourists, 1863. Tabusintac is near the mouth of the Tabusintac River, and is a Presbyterian villiige of about 400 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries. Many large sea-trout are caught near the mouth of the river, and in October immense numbers of wild geese and ducks are shot in the adjacent lagoons. Tracadie is a setttement which contains 1,200 French Acadians, and is situated near a broad lagoon which lies inside a line of sand-bars. Salmon, cod, and herring are found in the adjacent waters, and most of the people are engaged in the fisheries. The Tracadie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons aftiicted with the leprosy, w^hich prevails to some extent in this district, but has dimnished since tlie government secluded the lepers in this remote hospital. There is an old tradition that the leprosy was introduced into this region during the last century, when a French vessel was wrecked on the coast, some of whose sailors were from Marseilles and had contracted the true elephantiasis grmcorum (Eastern leprosy) in the Levant. Its perpetuation and hereditary transmission is attributed to the closeness of the relation in which intermarriage is sanc- tioned among the Acadians (sometimes by dispensations from the Church). Poekmouche is a settlement of 800 Acadian farmers, and here the mail route forks — one road running 6 m. N. E. to Shippegan, the other running 9 dta. N. to Lower Caraquette. River steamers run up the N. W. and S. W. branches, and occasionally to Burnt Church and Bay du Yin. Another river steamer runs up the I'iver four times daily to Newcastle (6 m.), touching at Douglastown, a dingy village on the N. bank, where much lumber is loaded on the ships which takes it hence to Europe. This village contains about 400 inhabi- tants, and has a marine hospital, built of stone. And Province of New Brunswick. 67 Newcastle is the capital of Northumberland County, and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Miramichi River. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in ship- building and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here, and a branch line has been built to Chatham. 150,000,000 feet of lumber are exported hence annu- ally. There are 5 churches here. A short distance above Newcastle, and bevond the Irish vil- lage of Nelson, is the confluence of the great rivers know: as the N. W. Miramichi and the S. W. Miramichi. These streams are crossed by the largest and costliest bridges of the Inter- colonial Railway. The name Miramichi signifies " Happy Re- treat," and signifies the love that the Indians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper waters of the rivei-s traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and are visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected by portages Avith the Nepisiguit, the Restigouche, the Upsalquitch, the Tobique; and the Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramichi, beyond Boiestown, at the mouths of Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and Burnt Hill Brooks. A railway has recently been constructed through the country from New- castle, via Boiestown, to Fredericton — 105 miles. Trains pass over the road each way daily. Beaubair's Island is off Upper Nelson, and was formerly occupied by a prosperous French town, but few relics of which are now to be seen. It was destroyed by a British navaJ attack in 1759. In 1642-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaques Enaud, a Basque gentleman, who founded trading posts on the islands and entered also upon the walrus fisheries. But a contention soon arose between Enaud's men and the Indians, by reason of which the Basque establish- ments were destroyed, and their people were forced to flee to Nepisiguit. In 1672, after the Treaty of Breda, several families from St. Malo landed on this coast and founded a village at Bay du Vin. From 1740 to 1757 a flourishing trade was carried on between the Miramichi country and France, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops failed in I ■X- 68 Tourists' Guide to St. John 1757, and the relief sliips from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 1758 the transport BIndienne, of Morlaix, was wrecked in tlie bay, and the disheartened colonists, famished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by death. Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on Beaubair's Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter suffering, and by the arrival of spring there were not three score inhabitants about the bay. In 1759 a British war vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first boat's crew which landed was cut off" and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate bombarded the French Fort batteries and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. Then sailing to the N. E., the commander lauded a force at Neguac and burnt the Catholic chapel, tlie inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this day only by the name of Burnt Church. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of New Bruns- wick was deserted and relapsed into a wilderness state. In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading post on the S. AV. Miramichi, where 1,500-1,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised and plundered by the Indians in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given out that her crew were Bostonians, by which means 35 Indians from the great council at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. In 1786 the Scotch settlers opened large saw mills on the N. W. Mira- michi, and several families of American Loyalists settled along the shore. Vast numbers of masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock- yards, and the growth of the Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. In October, 1825, this district was desolated by the Great Miramichi Fire, which swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed $1,000,000 worth of property and 160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Miramichi Valley became a blackened wilder- ness. The only escape for life was by rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead; and here, nearly covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, and the domestic beasts of the farm. On leaving the Miramichi River and Bay the vessel steams out into the Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the low shores of Tab- And Province of New Brunswick. 69 in usintac aud. Tracadie, indented by wide and sliallow lagoons. After running about 35 ni. the low red cliffs of Shippegan Island are seen on the W. This island is 12 m. long by 8 m. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. On the S. W. shore k the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, opposite the popul- ous village and magr-ificent harbor of Shippegan. There are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel off these shores, and the deep triple harbor is well sheltered by the islands of Shippegan and Pocksuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge. Noble wild duck shooting here in spring and fall. The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Miscou Island, which is 20 m. in circumference and contains about 300 inhabitants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, which is much used as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing fleets. Settlements were formed here early in the 17th century by the French for the purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged upon this valuable aquatic animal that it soon became ex- tinct in the Gulf, and was followed into the Arctic Zone. Within five years a few walruses have been seen in the Gulf, and it is hoped that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the priests were soon l'"lled by the climate, and no impression had been made on the Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1685 for the pursuit of fish and walruses, and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifi- cations were also erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. The steamer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 25 ,ni. N., is the entrance to the Bay of Chaleur. The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Ecketuam Nemaache, signifying "A Sea of Fish," and that name is still applicable, since the bay contains eveiy variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 90 m. long and from 10 to 25 m. wide, and is nearly free from sh()als or dangerous reefs. The waters are comparatively tranquil, and the air is clear and brae- li m 70 Tourists' Guide to St. John ing, and usually free from fog, affording a marked contrast to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have but little velocity. The length of the Bay, from Point Miscou to Campbellton, is about 110 m. These waters are visited every year by great American fleets, manned by the hardy sea- men of Cape Cod and Gloucester, and valuable cargoes offish are usually carried back to the Massachusetts ports. This bay was discovered by Jacques Cartier in the summer of 1535, and, from the fact tliat the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Baie des Chaleurs (The Bay of Heats). On the earliest maps it is also called La Baie des Espagnols, indicating that it was fre- quented by Spanish vessels, probably for the purpose of fishing. In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massa- chusetts coast, relative to Skipper Ireson's misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has been commemorated in the poetry of Whittier. When well within the bay the steamer assumes a course nearly S. W., leaving Miscou and Shippegan Islands astern. The broad Caraquette Bay is on the S., and the New Bandon shores are followed into Nepisiguit Bay. The harbor of Bathurst is entered by a strait two cables wide, between Alston Point and Carron Point, on the latter of which there are red and white beacon- lights. Bathurst, the capital of Gloucester County, has 1,000 in- habitants, and stands on a peninsula 2 2 m. from the bay. Large quantities of fish are sent hence to the American cities ; and the exportation of frozen salmon has become an important business. The Intercolonial Railway has a station near Bathurst. The beautiful Basin of Bathurst receives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well-populated by farmers. Pleasant drives and sailing routes amid lovely scenery abound hereabouts, and give Bathurst a summer -resort air. It is 3 m. to the fine beach of Alston Point, near which there are farm boarding- houses. The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians Winkapiguwick, or Nepisiguit, signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town And Provixck of New Brunswick. 71 called St. Pierre. Enaiul married a Mohawk princess, founded mills, and established an extensive fur -trade, erecting a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Coal Point), at the mouth of the Nepisiguit. But some family troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, after which the French settlements were plundered by the Indians, and such of the inhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occupied by an industrious farming population. In 1692 the Micmacs confederated against them, and, under the command of the sagamore Ilalion, completely devastated the whole district, and compelled the settlers to fly to Canada. Thenceforward for 74 years this country was unvisited by Europeans. In 1764 a Scotch trading-post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the X. shore of Bathurst harbor, and thence were exported great quantities of furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American privateers, which also devastated the other shores of Chaleur. The present town was founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in honor of the Earl of Bathurst. The Nepisiguit River empties into Bathui'st harbor, and is famous for its fine fishing. A road ascends for 35 m., passing the Rough AVaters, the brilliant rapids of the Papineau Falls (9 m. up), the dark pools of the Betaboc reach, the Chain of Rocks, and the Narrows. The Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit are 20 m. above Bathurst, and consist of 4 distinct and step-like cliflTs, with a total height of 140 feet. They are at the head of the Narrows, where the river flows for 3-4 m. through a cailon between high cliffs of slaty rock. The river boldly takes the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing roar is deafening, while the base of the clifiE* is shrouded in white spray. From the profound depths at the foot the river whirls away in a black and foam- flecked course for 2 m. " Good-by, lovely Nepisiguit, stream of the beautiful pools, the fisher- man's elysium ; farewell to the merry, noisy current, thy long quiet stretches, thy high bluffs, thy wooded and thy rocky shores. Long may thy nmsic lull the innocent angler into day-dreams of happiness. Long may thy romantic scenery charm the eye and gladden the heart of the artist, and welcome the angler to a happy sylvan home." — Roosevelt. 72 Tourists' Guide to St. John Tri-weekly stages run E. from Bathui*st to Salmon Beach, 8 m.; Jamesville, 12; Clifton, 15, Xew Bandoii, 20 ; Pockshaw, 23 ; Grand Anse, 28 ; Upper Caraquette, 36 ; Lower Caraquette, 43 ; Shippegan, 60. Fare to Caraquette, $3.50. This road fol- lows the shores of the Nepisiguit Bay and the Bay of Chaleur for nearly 30 m. The hamlets of Clifton and New Bandoii were settled by Irish immigrants, and are now engaged in making grindstones. Pockshaw has about 600 inhabitants. Grand Anse is an Acadian settlement, and has 700 inhabitants, who are en- gaged in farming and fishing. Thence the road runs 8 m. S. E. to Upper Caracjuette, where there are about 600 Acadians. Lower Caraquette is a French village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is famous for its strong, swift boats, and skillful mariners. Caraquette was founded in 1768 by a colony of Bretons, and owed a part of its early growth to intermarriages with the Micmacs. It is a long- street of farms in the old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and well- cultivated country. The view from the hills over the village, and especially from the still venerated spot where the old chapel stood, is very pleasant, and includes Miscou and Shippegan, the Gaspe ports, and the bold Quebec shores. The Jersey house of Eobin & Co. has one of its fishing establish- ments here, and does a large business. Caraquette is one of the chief stations of the N. shore fisheries. In the year 1873 the fish product of the three lower Maritime Provinces amounted to the value of $9,060,342. Nova Scotia caught $6,577,086 worth of fish ; and New Brunswick caught $2,285,660 worth, of which $527,312 were of salmon, $500,306 of herring, $346,925 of lobsters, $338,699 of codfish, $108,514 of alewives, $90,065 of hake. $64,396 of pollock, $45,480 of oysters, $41,851 of smelt, and $35,477 of mackerel. The line of the highway, and the noble-viewing railway track (with several stations) follow the coast of the Bay of Chaleur to the N. W. to Medisco ; Rochette, 12 m. ; Belledune, 20 ; Belledune River, 24 ; Arm- strong's Brook, 28 ; River Louison, 33 ; New Mills, 38 ; River Charlo, 44, and Dalhousie, 52. ]Vpdisco and Rochette are French villages; the others are of British origin, and none of them have as many as 500 inhabitants. Many small streams enter the bay from this coast, and the whole district is famous for its fishing and hunting (water-fowl). The line of this shore is followed by the Intercolonial Railway. Off Bathurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 m. wide, and the steamer passes out and takes a course to the N. W., passing the And Province of Nkw Brunswick. 73 hamlet of Rochette, and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing highlands of the Gaspesian Peninsula are seen on the N., Avith the peak of Tracadiegash. The passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Island is about 7 m. wide ; and 6 -8 m. beyond the steamer passes Maguacha Point {Maguacha, Indian for "Always Red ") on the r., and entei*s Restigouche Harbor. Daijiousie is a village of GOO inhabitants, situated at the mouth of the long estuary of the Restigouche, and is the capital of Restigouche County. It faces on the harbor from three sides, and has great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale ; and the town is aka famous for its shipments of lobsters and salmon. The salmon fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and productiveness. The line of the Intercolonial Railway is about 4 m. S. of Dalhousie. The site of this port was called Sickadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy Highlanders from Arran, whose new port and metropolis was "located in an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is Mt. Dalhousie, and the harbor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. Lonami Point is at the entrance of the harbor, and has a fixed white light ; and Fleurant Point is opposite the town, across the estuary, " The expanse of 3 m. across the mouth of the Restigouche, the dreamy alpine land beyond, and the broad plain of the Bay of Chaleur, present one of the most splendid and fascinating panoramic prospects to be found on the continent of America, and has alone rewarded us for the pilgrim- age we have made. — Citables L anman. The estuary of the Restigouche is 2-4 m. wide, and extends from Dalhousie to Campbellton, about 16 m. Point a la Garde is 9 m. above Dalhousie on the N. shore, and is a bold perpendicular promontory overlooking the harbor. On this and Battery Point (the next to the W.) were the extensive French fortifications which were destroyed by Admiral Byron's British squadron in 1780. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have been 74 Tourists' Guide to St. John I! n ^ obtained from tlie water off these points. Battery Point is a rocky promontory 80 feet high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 m. distant, and 1 m. back is a spiral mass of granite 700 feet high, which is accessible by natural steps on the E. IJ m. from this peak is a j)rctty forest lake, in which red trout are abundant. 5 m. N. of Point a la Garde is the main peal' of S^aumenac Mts., which attains an altitude of 1,745 feet. Campbellton is situated in a diversified region of hills at the head of deep-water navigation on the Restigouche, which is here 1 m. wide. The Bay Chaleur steamboats leave here twice weekly, for Paspebiac, Gasp6, etc. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here. The adjacent country is highly picturesque, and is studded with conical hills, the chief of which is Sugar Loaf, 900 feet high. Mission Point is nearly opposite Camj^bellton, and is sur- rounded by fine hill scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid off these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as Point-a-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reservations of the Micmac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic Church. Three m. above Mission Point is Point au Bourdo, the ancient site of La Petite Rochelle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bourdo, of the French frigate Marchault, who was killed in the battle off this point and was buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artillery, camp equipments, and shells have been found in great numbers in this vicinity. The Restigouche River is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 m. above Campbellton. It runs through level lands for several miles above its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shores. There are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil, and above the Tomkedg- wick are wide belts of intervale. 30 m. from its mouth it receives the waters of the Metapedia River, flowing down from the Metis Mts., and 85 m. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- abounding Upsalquitch ; 21 ra. farther up is the mouth of the \ And Province of New Brunswick. 75 IS a d a (int, is 18 a of ich Patapedia, and 20 m. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick conies in from the N. W. This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory, and is connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy and the River St. Lawrence. Campbellton to the St. Lawrence. The Metapedia Road leaves tlie N. shore of the Restigouche a few miles above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. AV. for the St. Lawrence River. This is the route of the Intercolonial Railway, which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from Campbellton to St. Flavie is 106 m., and the railway fare is $3. This road leads across the barren highlands of Gasp6, and through one of the most thinly settled portions of Canada. The French hamlet of St. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia River. Metapedia is 15 m. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the pretty scenery at the confluence of the Meta- pedia and Restigouche Rivers. The salmon fisheries in this vicinity attract a few enthusiastic sportsmen every year. Near the confluence is the old Fraser mansion, famous among the travellers of earlier days. The Intercolonial Railway crosses the Restigouche in this vicinity, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 m. beyond this village is the Metapedia Lake. The Metapedia Lake is 12 m. long by 2 m. wide, and is sur- rounded by low shores of limestone, above and beyond which are distant ranges of highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, and afford good sporting. The lake contains a large island, which is a favorite breeding-place of Joons. St. Flavie is a village of 450 French people, situated on the S. shore of the River St. Lawrence, and is the point where thv'. Intercolonial Railway reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. I.; is distant from Campbellton 106 m.; from Father Point, 15 m.; from Riviere du Loup, 83 in.; and from Quebec, 210 m. H \i Ir T) Tourists' Guide to St. John St. SfoKn to Amlierst ani) Ha(i[ax. Tin: Intercolonial Railway. TiiiH route traverses tlie S. E. counties of New Brunswick, passes the isthmus at tl>e liead of tlie Bay of Fundy, and after crossing the Cobequid Mts. and rounding tlic head of Cobequid Bay, runs S. W. to tlie city of Halifax. It traverses h*Mne interesting districts and has a few glimpses of attractive scenery, but the views are generally monotonous and without any striking beauties. During calm and pleasant weather the traveller will find the Annapolis route much the pleasanter way to go from St. John to Halifax. ON leaving the station in the city of St. John, the train passes out into the Marsh Valley, which is ascended for several miles. A phort distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses Lawlor's Lake, on an embankment which cost heavily, on ac- count of the great depth to which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebeccasis Bay is soon seen on the 1., and is skirted for 5 ni., passing the villas of Rothesay, and giving pleasant views over the broad waters. Quispamsis station is 3 m. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Kennebeccasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The narrowing valley is now followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. Hampton is the shiretewn of Kings County, whose new public buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of recent origin, and is visited in summer by the people of St. John on account of the hill scenery in the vicinity. St. Mai'tins, or Quaco, is about 30 m. S. E., on the Bay of Fundy, and is now connected with Hampton by a new railway. (It is also visited by daily stage from St. John in 32 m., fare $1.50 ; a rugged road). Hampton Station is 1 m. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond Bloomfield the train reaches Norton, whence a road runs 7 m. N. W. to Springfield, at the head of Belleisle Bay. Apohaqui is a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper Kenne- beccasis, and at the mouth of the Mill-stream Valley. And PKovI^'CE of New Bkunswick. 77 I'S tl le The train now reaches Sussex, a pleasant little village of 800 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lands of the Sussex Vale stretch off to the S. P]. along the course of Trout Brook. There are several hamlets amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and good trout fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 m. up is the prosperous settlement of Seely's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. Tlie Sussex Vale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists (most of whom were (Jermans), soon after the Kevolutionary War, and it is now occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimpses of the long low ridge of Piccadilly Mt. are obtained on the r., and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penobsquis station, which is the seat of the New Bruns- wick Paper Manui'acturing Co. and of several salt works. Tri- weekly stages run hence 32 m. S. K. to the maritime village of Alma, on the Bay of Fundy, 5 m. N. W. of the shipping port of Point Wolf. Petitcodiac is 15 m. beyond Penobstpiis and is a busy village of 400 inhabitants, many of whom are c(mnected with the lumber trade. 5 m. S. E. is the Pollett River village, near which there is good trouting. In this vicinity are the Pollett Falls, where the river, after flowing through a narrow defile between lofty and rugged hills, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a dark gorge below. The caverns, crags, and eroded fronts of the sandstone clifis form picturesque bits t)f scenery. 15-18 m. N. of Petitcodiac are the famous fishing grounds of the Canaan River. The railway now descends the valley of the Petitcodiac River, which was settled after the Revolutionary War by Germans from Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great Britain. Salisbury is a pleasant village of 300 inhabitants. Leaving Salisbury, the Albert Railway runs 45 m. S. E. through the villages of Hillsboro', Albert Mines, and Riverside, to Albert, the terminus of the line. Hillsboro', a busy village of 700 inhabitants, has two hotels, and is a port from which schooners and ships transport the plaster manu- factured here in large quantities. Albert Mines, once the most valuable coal mines known, have lately closed, the supply being exhausted. The 78 Tourists' Guide to St. John r r . 1 ' 'ti 11 si h : ^f village of Riverside may be said to be a part of the village of Albert, the latter being the larger. Albert is the busiest and most picturesque part of the county. Beyond Salisbury station the Halifax train runs 13 m. N. E, to Moncton, the headquarters of the Intercolonial Railway and the site of its extensive machine shops. It is well laid out, and has 10 churches, 2 daily papers, and large manufacturing works. Its situation at the head of navigation, on the Petitcodiac, gives certain commercial advantages, and affords opportunity for the visitor to see the great " Bore," or tide-wave, of the Bay of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water, 4-6 ft. high, sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises 40 ft. The new division of the Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is completed to meet the Canadian railway system at Rivi6re du Loup. It passes through or near the chief towns of the North F^hore, and follows the Bay of Chaleur for many miles. Moncton stands next to St. John in importance, and has 6,000 inhabi- tants, a sugar refinery, flour mills, cotton, and knitting factories, etc. The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after passing Painsec Junction deflects to the S. E. into the Mem- ramcook Valley. It soon reaches *he connected villages of Memramcook and St. Joseph, occupying the centre of a prosper- ous farming district which is inhabited by over 1,000 Acadians — a pious and simple-hearted Catholic peasantry — a large por- tion of whom belong to the prolific families of Leblanc, Cormier, Oaudet, and Bourque. On the opposite shore is the College of St. Joseph de Memramcook, where about 100 students (mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a high school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college is the handsome stone Church of St. Joseph de Memram- cook. The Valley of the Memramcook, down which the train descends to Dorchester, possesses one of the most charming landscapes in the country. Two high parallel ridges, wooded and well settled, are seen on either hand, while the valley itself, like the Tantramar Marshes, is a dead level, miles in length, And Province of New Brunswick. 79 rt, the >art of being made up from the sea by tidal deposits, and in June it is an ocean of bright green. Dorchester is a prosperous village of ^00 inhabitants, situated near the mouth of the river and among the finest wheat-lands in New Brunswick. Dorchester has 4 churches, the public buildings of Westmorland County, and numerous pleasant residences. On the opposite side of the Mem- ramcook, at Rockland, are quarries of freestone, several thousand tons of which are shipped annually to Boston and New York. Shipbuilding and shipowning is the leading business. The traveller by train is surprised to see vessels of 1,000 tons being built in the woods, two miles from apparent water. They are launched at high tides into a creek at hand. A large and imposing freestone building on the heights above the town is the Maritime Penitentiary. The train runs E. 12 m. from Dorchester to Sackville, a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar* River, near the head of the Bay of Fundy. It has ship-yards, a stove foundry, a newspaper, and 8 chujches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wesleyan College, an institution which was founded by Mr. C. F. Allison, and is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the rugged headland between Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets of Woodpoiut (5 m.), Rockport (12 m.), and N. Joggins (14 m.), from Sackville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. About 200 students attend the Mount Allison Educational Institution. Sackville posseses 40 square miles of marsh lands, that produce enormous crops of grasses. Large shipments of hay and cattle are made from here ; the latter to the English markets. A railway runs to Cape Torraentine (38 m. E.), con- necting with the P. E. Island Railway system, and opening up a * Tantramar, from the French word Tinlamarre, meaning " a thundering noise." I i:i :■ I 80 Tourists' Guide to St. Johx. i ): I ~ ' i-i splendid agricultural country. The bogs and lakes at the head of the marshes are haunts of snipe and duck, and are a favorite resort of sportsmen. At Sackviile the Halifax train crosses the Tantramar River, and runs out over the wide Tantramar Marsh to Aulac, or Cole's Island (stage to Cape Tormentine), near which it crosses the Aulac River. The Missiguash River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Beausejour (Cumberland) on the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. These forts are best visited from Amherst, which is 4-5 m. distant, and is I'eached after travelling the Missiguash Marsh. The Missiguash River is the boundary between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, a' id Am- herst'is the first town reached in the latter Province. Foit Lawrence is the W. terminus of the proposed Chignecto Marine Railway, whereby it is intended to carry phips of 1,000 tons, with their cargoes, between the Straits of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy, a distance of 17 m. The Canadian Government has subsidized the project with $150,000 per annum for 25 years, and an English Company began work in 1883. This scheme is a substitute for the Baie Verte Canal, which was abandoned m 1875. With a hearty handshake we now bid the tourist good-bye. At all the places we have visited we have found much to interest us; many of them have historical and legendary associations which we can never forget ; at all of them we have been hospitably received, and for kindness bestowed upon us we are unable to express our thanks. You, my friend, will cross the Strait to Prince Edward Island, perhaps you will spend a week on Cape Breton, famous in Acadian history, and more recently made famous by Fred. Cozzens, Warner, and Spencer ; and then you may journey around the south shore of Nova Scotia, or through the Valley of Annapolis to the beautiful land of Evangeline. Here or there, we hope to meet you again. A DVERTISEMENT. 81 of ■ite er, e's he he >rt ed er ;he m- WHEN YOU ARE IX NEW BRUNSWICK, BUY The Saint Jolin DailJi In, THE BEST NEWS PAPER IN THE LOWER PROVINCES. The Only Paper in the Maritime Provinces which publishes a Special Eight-Page Edition on Saturdayg* 2c. Per Copy. $5.00 Per Annum. As AN Advertising Medium, Second to None East of Montreal.* Rates Reasonable. ii THE I :! Eight Pages of Interesting Matter, including the Entire News of tlie Weeli from all parts of the world in a brief and readable form. J8@f" MARKET REPORTS and Prices Current corrected every week. DR. TALMAGE'S SERMON, AS DELIVERED THE SUNDAY PREVIOUS TO PUBLICATION. A SHORT STORY, and a large amount of Useful and Instructive Reading. SUBSCRIPTION, $1.00 PER ANNUM. • ♦ » Sent to any part of the Dominion, United States, Newfoundland, or Great Britain — Postage Paid. Address: "The Sun." Saint John, N. B. m 82 Advertisement. I ii .;; T. ,;■■' Hi i itifi ^ ESTABLISHED 1822, |Ios. 98 and 100 Jpinee William Street, SAINT JOHN, N. B. NEHS BOOKS RECEIVED DAILY. CHOICE IMPORTED STATIONERY. Visiting Cards and all kinds of Fine Printing promptly supplied. Strangers respectfully invited to visit our establishment, and to ask for any local information they may require. Advertisement. 83 THE mil CEITIIL MILIOIB Is the great Railway thoroughfare of Maine, reaching all of the principal Cities and Towns in the State, and is the connecting link between the Maritime Provinces and the United States. Its lines cross, and in many places run along the banks of, and lead to, the head waters of the Androscoggin, Kennebec, and Penob- scot Rivers, and their great reservoirs, MOOSEHEAD AND THE RANGELY LAKES. As well as to many other noted Hunting and Fishing .""esorts in Maine, acd in connection with the New Brunswick Railway to St. John, and to all of the Lakes and Rivers reached by that road ; indeed it may be said to lead to more resorts of this kind than any other road in the country. By this line, also, all of the resorts on the coast of Maine and the Provinces are reached, isKaui2 JGMN MANNAM.MANUFAeR.STJOMN.NB Organ Factory Building, City Road, Advertisemest. 85 ^ r WAS f .''\ iAi]|yiDRED ,AT .^"^KI llaMdTEAMj m.' ^(^^H ^ >'ANTERBURrOT/ •>. J ^JV' -^ WHEKE EVERYTHING IS RUNNING IN PERFECT ORDER, AND FIRST-CLASS WORK turxVed out at Short Notice. THIS LAUNDRY IS PREPARED TO DO ^11 5iiid| of Laundry WofI^, INCLUDING ^ -^ ir V ^ ^ ^ i ^ to^leM¥®F(Ki. All work will be carefully examined before leaving the Laundry A share of tlie public's patronage is solicited. ^©-TELEPHONE 214.'®» GODSOE BROTHERS, Proprietors. 86 Advertisements. :i ■I i- IH 11 BROADCLOTHS, CORKSCREWS, ,, SCOTCH, ENGLISH, ^ CtKa AND TROUSERINGS, Always on Hand. "■•iC, CANADIAN TWEEDS, Of All Kinds. U<3) W. J. HlGGINS & Co. 5i-0-0«-«5*«"'»'*«>*0"5'*'^*< Mil® nr J>««i«<^--->--«5>-'!>-«S»-««-<»-«>»«' >-«s>»«'-<*<-«>«--«Si-ir ii till ?»«'--0»-«~i«< 182 UNION STREET, ST. JOHN, N. B. A Full Stock of Gents' Furnishing Goods. ■i TMl. **FLPSHIMQ CHANGE OF TIME. U'NTIL further notice, the Steamer "FLUSHING" will leave Grand Manan every Monday Morning at 8 o'clock for Saint John, touch- ing at Campobello and Eastport. Returning:, will leave Tiirnbiill's Wharf, Saint John, every Tuesday Morning at 9 o'clock for Grand Manan, via Eastport and Campobello. Will leave Grand Manan every Wednesday Morning at 8 o'clock for Saint Stephen, via Campobello, Eastport, and Saint Andrews. Returning, will leave Saint Stephen every Thursday Mornin^r at 8 o'clock (tide permitting) for Grand Manan, via Saint Andrews, Eastport^ and Campobello. x Will leave Grand Manan every Saturday Morning at 7 o'clock for Eastport, via Campobello. Returning, will leave Eastport at 1 o'clock, p. m., for Grand Manan^ via Campobello. -♦•■■♦ TURNBULL & CO., Agekts. AUVEKTISEMENT. 87 l# THE CELEBRATED MOmi NERVE i FOOD •< Contains n^itlier Medicine, Alcohol, Cocoa, Cocaine, or Stimulant- the Extract of a Simple, Harmless 4^' S@iip mmmmn Mcfdep Flam! AVIIICII RE]MOVES ^^ In its rapid and harmless substitution of all the injurious Stimulants, Narcotics, Nervines, and Suppressives, it is creating an excitement and interest in all circles of society unparalleled in the history of the country. The Proprietors offer $ 5,000.00 to any person who can find anything in it more injurious than Winter Green and Common Bitter Boot. For sale by Grocers everywhere. PRICE 35C. Per bottle. -♦-♦-^♦►+-«- J. S. WALLIS & SON, 513 Main Street, PORTLAND. |i .ill .88 AdV HTISEMENT. FOR SALE ON ALL TMINS! A^Ligusta Evans Wilson's ATTHEMERCIOFTIBH! PRiCE, CLOTH, $1.00 ; PAPER, 50C. ISTO'W JEt:EiJ^lDlC I ALLAN QUATERMAIN. By H, Rider Haggard. Price, Cloth, 60 cts. ; Paper, 30 cts. BEN HUR. By Lew Wallace. Price, Cloth, 75 cts. ; Paper, 30 cts. THE FAIR GOD. By Lew Wallace. Price, Cloth, 75 cts. ; Paper, 40 cts. THE PRINCE de MORIA. By. A. d'Ennery. (From the French). Price, Paper, 25 cts. MAILED ON RECEIPT OF PRICE. ASK FOR BOOKS PUBLISHED BY Rose poblishiDji Gompanji, TT Advertislmknt.s. 89 C3-0 TO -^i^m. ^^\% Corner Mill and Pond Streets, OPP. THE I. C. R. DEPOT, Confeciionefy -AND GfoceiieSi At the Lowest Cash Prices. NEW CARPET # House Furnishing Warehouse. HAROLD GILBERT, 54 King Street, St. John, N. B. A complete and full stock will be found in my Warerooras at All Seasons. My arrangements with the Leading Manufacturers enable me to shew all NOVELTIES immediately after production. Special attention given to Fiirnishiiigr Hotels, Public Buildings, Churches, Etc. Orders by mail will receive my personal attention. HAROLD GILBERT. Parlor Furniture a Specialty. 90 Advertisements. H PS j it ': it , I its- r I i:i ylsA' the News Agent on this Train for "GRIP," I's Oaly €oroi€ Paper, PRICE 5C. 16 PAGES. Any one of its Cartoons is worth all the money. Every current subject cleverly discussed in Picture. The Humorous Matter also Profusely Illustrated. Dc not miss it any week. For entertainment on a journey it is worth more than a Free Ticket. 1^ I C£=»--t/T^^i) SAINT JOHN, N. B. 1. 1. cu ^^% \dJ4^^^^^. M^'S^jJU/SU/^ •^^/ JleFijhant ^ailoF. ^^07-HS ON HAND FROM >NV^\CV^^ .O-" £> Advertisements. 91 C OOK'S TOURIST TICKETS To all parts (>r the Provinces, Quebec and Ontario, including the famous Annapolis Yulley, Bras d'Or Lakes, Metapedia, 8agiienay River, Tliou.sand Isles, Niagara Falls, Etc. GEORGE PHILPS, General Railway and Steamship Ticket Agent, 97 PRINOE WILLIAM STREET, SAINT JOHN, N. B. VICTORIA Steam Gonfei^tioneFij WofI^^. ESTABLISHED 1873. J. R. WOOOBURN & CO MANUFACTUBERS BY STEAM OF W 11 li fi Hill WW m.'"^ ^^ ^^.'^^a % 44 & 46 Dock Street, (PLEASE NOTE THE NUMBERS). ,i i-l i' I' hi i^ 92 A DVERTISEMENTS. Eool^§ and Stalioneri] ^K^^s::ssc# * 'iSR^S'^^^N 'fJJJJ^W^XW ^!^W!^\'^, '"■^SW^N^ ^^'\SS?S^ -•oso Killer a- STI^EE'X'. -o- ^ ^11 Kindl OF— «»- Best Value in Saint John. ORANGES, LEMONS. APPLES, PEARS. A. L GOOBWe IMPORTER AND WHOLESALE DEALER IN Foreip Fruits^ ppodQee. 5 & 6 Market Building, Germain Street, DATES, FIGS. PRUNES, NUTS. Advertisements. 93 •k fi % GENERAL AGENT: WESTERN ASSURANCE CO . LONDON ASSURANCE CORPORATION, BRI TISH AMERICA ASSURANCE CO . The MUTUAL ACC IDENT ASS OCIATION ( LIMITED), O F M ANCHESTER. ENG . THE BOILER I NSPECTION AND INSURANCE COMPANY. Offices: 78 ppinee wniiani Street, St. Jolin, 1 1 ^' ^"'^^ .0^ ^o- rO^^ .^^ Wi-. 4/V, % '^^: 1 1 -?>? 0/> Ghoii?e * Gonlei^tioneri], EMBRACING MANY NEW DESIGNS. WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. No. 28 Dock Street, Saint John, N. B. ( j- ;i''i I 'i 94 A DVERTISEMENTS. OHN M. TAYLOR, Comer North Wharf # Nelson Street, SAINT JOHN, N. B. imnl Broker i Commission Merekaqt IMPORTER AND DEALER IN BUILDERS^ SUPPLIES, ETC Fire Brick # Sewera.ge Pipe. FARMER DRAIN AND FLOOR TILES, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN CEMENT AND PLASTER; CHIMNEY TOPS. AGENT FOR BOWKER'S HILL AND DILL PHOSPHATE. J.W.PmM© Commission -♦- Merchants, tK IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN H^ ft ^ # I=>I^OIDTJOE. -¥ 41 and 43 Germain Street, (Opposite Country Market), '■'■' T-T^ <.\ Advertisement. 95 ;i: :,i 96 Advertisements. 1' * ■ I 11;! ill IVhen visiting St Joftn be sure to call and see A full and complete stock of everything in American Rnb- !)er Goods. Our Specialties are LADIES' # GENTS' Rubbep GlottiDj, RUBBER BOOTS ^ SHOES, ATOMIZERS, SYRINGES, # RUBBER SUNDRIES OF ilLL KINDS. ONLY EXCLUSIVE RUBBER STORE EAST OF BOSTON. American Eubber Store, 65 CHARLOTTE STREET, ST. JOHN, N. B. SE^SOHSr 1888. SAINT JOHN! o-:rj^i•<>-<>•<>•<*••&•^••5i•<>•<^•<>••<>•■<0>•<>•«»•<^i<^r<>?ii;:li'lilii'liil;ilii Genuine Shetlanil Scotch Lambs' Wool llnilerclothlng. r Single and Double Texture Cashmere and Tweed Water- proof Coats (Quality Guaranteed), Extra Qualities Silk and Alpaca UinbrellaSf Solid Leather Engr- lisli Yalises, PortmanteauN and Trunks, Camping'-out -Blank- ets, Travelling Rugs and Rnb- ^^^^ Slieets; Flannel, Night, White ^ Regatta Shirts ; Dent's Best Gloves : Chevrette, Bernese and Driving; and a complete assort- ment of Ties, Scarfs, Braces, Handkerchiefs, Collars, CuflTs, Socks, Dressing Gowns, Lin- en Coats, Etc. Llama, Merino. Cotton, Gauze, and Silk Underclothing. a lillllllilllllliilliiliiliiliiliillilillilliillillliiliiliiliiiliiliiliiliiliiliiliiliiliiliiliiliiliiliilliiiiliiliiliilliliilliliiliilliliiliiliiti jg. g? and 89 King Street, llllllllllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllNIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINIIIIIIIHII L S-A-IITT JOmsT, IsT. B. J 0! "^ llll|il|ll|ll|lllMlll|ll|ll|ll| ISORi Jiiliillillllllllllllilllllili treet, iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 17 I ^«i '♦1 Qi Whole Rreft, Ist floor, 14,686 square ft. , 'iud floor, 12,460 " 3rd and 4th floors, . . 23,700 ** > ' Total, .. .. mJSm ' -'-"a^w^J Equal to 1 acre, 26 rods, 18 yds., 414 it. ■■*,.f ■ iH'V.'.f^. y.'AA- lv|<. ■ WH I.I'I ' AMJ' • ^.■*,->ifftt,-iM. ( /^■••>■'A'»^'L•'.<^^'•'iV <.}tHiUu{'/'. lEW ROOM, r Cloths ||id Tailon' Tnmihinj;. jj !i' III I. U M ! I CO o» en ,■0., V« CL. (d cn I ,U.Vi v^ E.»I.V^.- .-TVHI'! .UJi^ MILLII ti n \ I I I J .eiijjMi/ .^lio;;' .glillllA. DretslOoods. Whole urea, lit floor, 14,600 square ft 2nd floor 12,«0 Snl and 4th Aoon, .. 33,100 " A«.P*i«ftg««l«t»tt», B-Pi«lthtMmtor(»«t«ll). ©--IWi^llllr***' 0!«Tu>lB8»i4 D-C^i* tNwk. B-Pasrcel Oftce. '" ' C^ f^^^i}rhAh-t '' .'■ .': •;■■' . • i .^ , r, ■ Jr.-, . "■■rT~"^'~~ ""^ — 'T'----' ( • ■ '■ ;,. ■ . /•' »S <-! ^'((•■**tf^ WTLTON AKD BKIJS8XLS CARPETS. G 6i>_ p I e ■.r't>^>i}£ 5*1 OT'.W *■'>/) r.-jH tf>ii '^(ij^.-.'-iiiiMf^^iK.i:/^ 1 ARIA. » AKp TAPESTRY CARPETS, I OHiCLCrrHS, .,,H :» ■ . ' ' AMiJi': ,■ |ff'^-''4i'*^0S.''d.r?E- S -Hi. 11 «si iti»«ie43«««$a^:. Mntrmtm f^ ■•*'4 -.,-.'* 4'' 'fe^'^V ..:-,i:if( > -.-1 '1 'iV \mim)ib~.'>.'UJ!!>'i^Mtlit EMsmtor (Wtaolanle). i \ '«M, ,i' < '& --.d ' I,; -Pi ■ ! {• i,v,'^'^,l'i,^ I,.-, . .;- •.^-,Ci-' • » . i.j: , »' .v , ;» j i^i^> ' - i* .... ;i -: \\-,, ■- ,-„•/* • .\ rma smui'minv-i-y. ¥i Whaia ana, lit floor, M,aM squara ft. 9Bd flour, M .. .. 1S,4» " Srd Mid 4tK flowa, . . 2S,7Ul> " Kqoal lo 1 (ten, 9b roda, M yda., 4^ ft. '(,,!■.*<•. •»*.;(•■!''.*'" '* ■■■'1" I LAVNDRY. o C'ViiKaa:K»-,J, Al^rgB^WtWIEHt. MILLINERY DBPARTMBNT. r- Flowers. Ornamenu. ^^^S^f,'*^l Trimming Silks. **,a-; Room fori .ii->,Vl ; ^''v-f I! i ^.^ f: l»1-i.i ; I' iilid Making Up Carpeu. mWROOM. pothslidTailotf" rn s'^f:kMm0Mm!i»msmimm>:fM?*L '. i mm-r-rzatxmm^a.m Shapes. .ist^ll^* ^' MILUplWr ];>VI>ARTMBMT. < »h ^|Kkts and BoaMto< u-iUi^ r.iil i run Dress Cap«,-,!;(iol(0 vxx'i Cnpt| Velvets. JtofcOl H .i!;ai:;r uno»> Ribbons. .„^; IJLaow. EiAbroideries. Haadkerchief^, Cloves. .i.i.iW Ha TiH isiib* : «■>! (, II ii'<'»i«;" s' tijR.l 'IsB. £jB/5, sft^ M kkidiWiki, nil f\ Mif otlWt ■ ■^«*'*K»,*W«»fc- ■». ! A— Passenger BeTMI. |p4 B— Freight Bl«^at 5 1^ A i« j^ ^^ il Photographer to the Queen. TUTR. NOTMAN begs to thank the public generally for the large l&L amount of patronage he has received in past years, and again calls special attention to the New Styles of Portraiture on exhibition at his Studio. SPECIAL ATTKNTION GIVEN TO )Pt)otogra|il)ing (^rottfis anb CbUbren. strangers visiting the city should not fail to call and inspect the different classes of work, whether ordering or not — all are equally welcome. On hand will always be found a large variety of toietpg of £oca! jpiacee of Snteregt , (Snlargemente in india Jfnk, (2Dil, ^ toater Color. Outdoor Work attended to. Studio, - Ritchie's building, Gor. Ganterbupy ^ Jpineess Streets, St. John, Jjf. B. nnnTiMiriiiiiiiiiir^^