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Mapa. platea, charta, etc.. mey be filmed at different reduction retioa. Thoae too lerge to be entirely included in one expoaure ere filmed beginning in the upper left hend corner, left to right end top to bottom, ea many framea aa required. The following diegrama llluatrate the method: Lea cartea. planchea. tableeux. etc.. peuvent Atre filmAa A dea taux de rAductlon diff Arenta. Loraque le document eat trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un aeul cllchA. 11 eat fllmA A partir de I'angle aupArieur geuche. de gauche A drolte, et de haut en baa. en prenent le nombre d'Imagea nAoeaaalre. Lea diagrammea auivanta illuatrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 8 4 8 6 E JOHN REPORT ON THE i V^» EXPLORATION^ OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN J i 4 fafet |5apmar anlr l|t |ltb |li{rtr Sttflment. Memorandum. The original Maps and Plans referred to in the paper here- with, are deposited in the Provincial Secretary's Office. A copy of the Plan mentioned in Mr. Dawson's report of the 16th March last accompanies the papers. * ! ' E, A Meredith, '■' ■ "' • :' Assistant Sxcretdry. Secretary's Office, Toronto, 10th May, 1858. T . \ 'O '< ' INSTRUCTIONS AND COMMUNI0A.TIONS. yA ■>". Secretary's Office, Toronto, 22nd Jnly, 1857. Sir, — I have the honor to acquaint you that, confiding in your integrity, judgment and energy, together with your acquaint- ance with the Red River Territory, your knowledge of the communication with that country, and with the tribes of Indians which traverse it, His Excellency the Administrator of the Gov- ernment has been pleased to appoint you to the chief direction and control of the party about to be sent there. ' The party organized consists of the following : ' ' ' Mr. Gladman, chief director and controller of the expedition, and his assistant. Professor Hind, Geologist and Naturalist, and l*is assistant. Mr. Napier, Engineer, with his assistant and s. iTmen ; and ( Mr. Dawson, Surveyor, with his assistants, and chain-men. '— ' Also, such voyageurs or canoe-men as in your judgment may be necessary ; the probable number of canoes being assumed at four, with four voyageurs in each ; such men to be selected with a view to their being capable of assisting the engineering and surveying branches of the expedition, as axe-tnen, &c., when required. The primary object of the expedition is to make a thorough examination of the tract of country between Lake Superior and Red River. By which may be determined the best route for opening a facile communication through British territory, from that lake to the Ked River Settlemenis, and ultimately to the great tracts of cultivable land beyond them. With this view, the following suggestions are offered for your guidance, so far as you will find them practicable, and supported by the topography. In the first place, after being landed at Fort William, to pro- ceed by the present Hudson's Bay Canal route — by the Kami- nistiquia River, Dog Lake, Lake of the Thousand Islands, &c., to Lac La Croix, and thence by Rainy Lake, Lake of the Woods, Winipeg River to Lake Winipeg, and up the Red River to Fort Garry ; From Rainy Lake to Lake Winipeg, the route as at present affords a good navigation for boats of considerable size, with the interruption however of some short portages : but from Rainy Lake eastward to Lake Superior, the route is very much inter- rupted, and rendered laborious, tedious and expensive, by the great number of portages, some of considerable length, which have to be encountered to avoid the falls and rapids in the ravines and creeks which this route follows. For the establishment of a suitable communication for the important objects aimed at, it is believed that the construction of a road throughout, from some point on Lake Superior, proba- bly either at Fort William, or at or near the mouth of the Pigeon Biver to Rainy Lake, must be undertaken. To ascertain, there- fore, at present, by general exploration, what the route for this road should be, whether in the vicinity of the Hudson's Bay route, or by the line of country in which lies the chain of waters from Rainy Lake to the mouth of Pigeon River, this question can obviously be only satisfactorily determined, by the difficult portions of both being tested instrumentally, but in either case, as the construction of such road would be a matter of time and much expense, it is considered necessary that the portages, &c., of either of the routes above described should be improved, so as to be made more available and facile, and to be auxiliary to the works of the road by facilitating the transport of men, supplies, &c. To determine, therefore, the portages to be improved, and the best mode of doing so, and whether the present reaches of canoe or boat navigation may not be further extended by the removal of shoals or the erection of dams, will be points to which \v^ you will direct the atteation of the engineering and surveying branches of your party. » ■ .l) : . i'l ! From Bainy hake by Lake of the Woods, and Lake Winipeg to Fort Garry, as before described, is now comparatively a good water communication, but very circuitous ; and should the char- acter of Rat River, which rises at no great distance from the Lake of the Woods, and falls into the Red River above Fort Garry, be found susceptible of its being made a boat channel, a saving probably of 150 miles in length might be effected ; or on an exploration of the country through which that river flows, it may be found more desirable to construct a road along it from Red River, and should this be so, the nature of the communica- tion between Red River and Lake Superior, eventually would be about 100 miles of road from Red River to Lake of the Woods, thence about 140 miles of water communication to the eastern end of Rainy Lake, and from that point a continuous road to Lake Superior of from 160 to 200 miles in length. When you shall have reached Rainy Lake by the Hudson's Bay canoe or northern route, it is left to your discretion whether you should or not leave the engineering party with sufficient force to return and explore back to Lake Superior the Southern or Pigeon River route, while you proceed with the surveying party by Lake Winnipeg to Red River, and return by Rat River- All the members of the party, with the exception of the Geologist and his assistant, are, it is understood, to winter on the expedition if required. The expediency of adopting that course can only be determined by you some time hence ; but should you decide upon so doing, you will of course take due precautions for the safety and comfort of the party, and for their effective and profitable employment. As director and leader of the party, you will govern all mat- ters whatsoever connected with the conducting and provisioning of it — the hiring, discharging and payment of men. The lines to be explored, and the water examinations to be made will be determined by you, on consultr.tion with the gentlemen conduct- ing the engineering and surveying branches. You will also decide the times and places for separating the party or parties /':r: ''h^. V ■ . ''■ ■ e| * ■ I 1! • ;/ . ',^1 8 and for their re-union, the Engineer and Surveyor have been instructed to afford you all the assistance in their power, and have been informed that they are to consider themselves under your guidance and direction. Any occasional additional assis- tance they may require will be obtained through you, as well as all necessaries whatever ; but the conducting of their immediate professional duties will, of course, be regulated by themselves. At the very outset, it is important that you should regulate the number of fire-arms that you may consider it necessary to take, which it is believed should not exceed six, — one with the Director, one with the Geologist, two with the Engineer, and two with the Surveyor. Tou will adopt, also, full precautions against any spirits, &c., of any description being carried, except what shtdl be under your own sole charge and control, and such as you may consider it necessary to have in case of illness. '^• With regard to the procuring of canoes, camp equipage, medi- cine, &c. &;c., for the expedition, it is not considered necessary, from your experience in such matters, to offer any suggestions further than to draw vour attention to some Crimean rations of pressed vegetables, now in the commissariat store, which occupy but little space, and a small portion of which makes in a short time excellent soup. In order further to give effect to your control and authority, a commission of magistracy will be conferred upon you. About the time of your reaching Rainy Lake, or at such period as you may deem proper, you will send a messenger with des- patches, reporting upon your progress, &c. &c., and whether you find it necessary or desirable to winter in the territory, &c. Finally you will impress upon each member of your party that no communication or information whatsoever, with regard to the progress or results of the expedition, are to be transmit- ted, by writing or otherwise, except to the Honorable Provincial Secretary. The ad interim reports of the Geologist, Engineer, and Sur- veyor, you will inclose with your own, and transmit by the messenger above adverted to. ,> • ' ^^ i l»d You will also peremptorily require that the weight of all per- sonal effects taken by each of the party, including that of the bag or leather valise containing them, shall not exceed ninety pounds. (Signed,) E. Parent, Atsiatant Provincial Secretary, George Gladman, Esquire, Port Hope, U. C. Ill ■ . . . Crown Lands Department, Toronto, 14th July, 1867. Sir, — ^The Government having determined upon sending out an expedition under G. Gladman, Esquire, to explore the coun- try lying between the head of Lake Superior and the Red River Settlement, I am directed by the Honorable the Commissioner, to request that you will inform him whether you are prepared to take charge of one of the parties under that gentleman ; if so, you will please to repair to Toronto, with as little delay as possible, there to await further instructions from this department. ! f.r J i . - ^ Ihave, &c., (Signed,) E. A. Genereux. S. J. Dawson, Esquire, ,j Three Rivers, C. E. Instructions to S. J. Dawson, Esquire, to assist in the explora- tion of the country between the head of Lake Superior and the Red River Settlement. Sir, — ^The Government having determined upon sending out an expedition under George Gladman, Esquire, to explore the above mentioned country, you have been selected to act as sur- veyor. You will therefore put yourself in communication with that gentleman, who, as chief of the expedition, will have the general direction thereof; but who will not interfere with the professional working of your party. ' • - j • ^ ' ^ As the rate of progress of the expedition will be too rapid for an accurate instrumental survey of the whole of the route, you 10 you will make such a reconnaissance of those portions thereof which present no engineering difficulties, as the time and circum- stances will permit, ascertaining the bearings by a prismatic compass, and estimating the distances on land by pacing ; and on the lakes and rivers by the rate of progress of your canoe, or by a Rochon's micrometer, when you have leisure and oppor- tunity of using it, but; making an accurate survey where such difficulties occur. You will note the kind and quality of the soil and its fitness for agriculture ; the kinds of timber and their commercial value 7 the general nature of the face of the country, whether level, rolling, broken, hilly or mountainous ; the marshes, swamps and meadows ; the lakes with a description of their banks, and whe- ther their waters are deep or shallow, pure or stagnant ; the courses, widths and depths of the streams, with their rapids and falls, estimating the difference of level where an instrumental survey is not required ; the kind and localities of the fixed rocks, of which you will collect small specimens (from one to two cubic inches), attaching a number to each, and wrapping it up in birch or cedar bark, or such other suitable materials as are to be had on the spot, noting the number and locality in your field book, and the dip and strike of the rock, if stratified. You will keep a diary of your proceedings and a register of the thermometer and Anroid barometer at regular hours of the morning and evening, daily. .it. Ascertain the latitude and variation of the oompi^ss when you have opportunity. . m Your own pay will be £1 10s. a day while employed in this service. Mr. Gladman will pay your party and furnish provi- sion and other necessaries for the exploration. You will draw a plan of your operations, on a scale of one mile to an inch, showing as much of the natural features of the country as may come under your observation. * . ^ In addition to your diary and field notes you will furnish a report containing a concise summary of your proceedings, with 11 gen^xal observations on the Physical Geography of the country, its capabilities, and the best mode of developing them. , ,, ,, „ . I have, &c. i w, ;>> I I I : I 16 maij's instructions require him to explore not only the present canoe route of the Hudson's Bay Company, firom Fort WiUiam by Dog Lakoi Lake of the Thousand Islands, Lac Croix, Lake of the Woods, and Lake Winipeg, to Fort Garry, but also in returning to examine the former North West Company's route by Pigeon River ; and further to examine or survey the line of Rat River, from the Red River to its source, and the intervening country between it and the Lake of the Woods ; it is not probable that there will be much necessity for your leaving the party for more than a few days at a time, which is desirable, from its limited number and the late season of the year. It is arranged with Mr. Gladman, that he is to send a mes- senger, some time hence, with despatches to the Government, explanatory of the progress made towards carrying out the object of the expedition ; and by this means you will also have an opportunity of making such ad interim report as you may consider desirable. You will determine the return route to be taken by you and your assistant, whether by Lake Superior or by St. Paul's, as you may be led to believe will most conduce to the attainment of the object of your branch of the expedition. When materials for illustrating the geology and natural history of the country accumulate, so as to render t^ieir transportation an inconvenience, you will hand them over in packages, properly made up and directed, to Mr. Gladman, who will take care that they are safely lodged at some of the posts, and arrangements made for their being securely conveyed to this city. > Your reports and communications upon the various subjects to which your attention is directed will be addressed to the Hon, Provincial Secretary ; and it is presumed to be unneces- sary to impress upon you the propriety and expediency of taking care that the subject of such reports, and the results of your labor, shall be only so communicated. • ' '■::}■ .< I : I ^■. r I have the honor, &c. IjrjM ' . V .,• .• y (Signed,) T. L. Tbrrill, Frovinoial Stcretary. H. Y. Hind, Esq.. Professor, &c. Trinity College. ill II REPORT. Fort Francis, Rainy Lake, 19th August, 1857. Sir, — I have the honor to report my arrival here yesterday evening. I came on in advance of the other canoes, for the purpose of obtaining guides for parties to proceed by way of "Rat River," to "Fort Garry," and by the " River des Bois,*» from " Rainy Lake," to '* Lake of the Woods." Before pro- ceeding further, however, I beg to detail briefly our proceeciings to this time. Leaving Gollingwood on the 24th July, after calling at various places on Lake Huron, the steamer arrived at the Sault Ste. Marie on the 27th. On the 28th, during an extremely dense fog, the steamer ran on the rocks off Michipicoton Island, in Lake Superior. She was got off again late the following afternoon without sustaining any material damage, and put into the harbour to re-arrange coals, &c., which had been moved the previous day in order to float the steamer. Leaving the harbour on the next evening (80th) we arrived in safety at the mouth of the Kaministiquia, and landed at Fort William late on the 31st. My attention was immediately given to the arrangements of canoes, men and provisions, and on Monday I was enabled to send off three canoes in advance, and followed B I i 'I I 'I ! 1: 18 with three more on the next day. Pursuing the route de- signated in my instructions as the Hudson's Bay route, I arrived as above remarked, yesterday, and expect the other canoes will be here in course of the day. The greatest difficulty to be encountered in navigating this route, appears to me to be the shoalness of the waters imme- diately below the Mountain Fall. For about nine miles above Fort William there is sufficient depth of water to enable a steamer to ascend the stream, and the distance from thence in a direct line, according to the surveyor's estimates, not exceed- ing eighteen miles. I see no better means of improving that part of communication than by opening a road that should pass the three first and most difficult portages. Mr. Napier is of opinion that it would be impracticable to raise the water by damming the stream, the fall being too precipitate and the banks not sufficiently high or firm to admit of the construction of such works. From the Dog Portage to the Prairie Portage, a distance of thirty miles, it appears to me quite practicable to remove the greater part of the obstructions caused by the few intervening shoals of rocks, and thus admit of free navigation, even for boats ; and I do not thing the cost of the improvements would be great. From the east end of the Prairie Portage to the head of the Savanne Rivulet, (the first stream of waters descending towards Hudson's Bay) embracing about five and a half miles of land carriage, by present route, it is probable that a minute survey would shew that a road may be formed, which would pass at one stretch the three longest portages in the whole commu- nication. Being obliged, however, by the necessity of econo- mizing our voyaging provision, and passing rapidly onward, we could not make that particular examination of this portion of the route which we would have wished to do. Had we a stock of provisions on hand here at Rainy Lake to meet the requirements of so large a party, we should have been glad to spend two or three days in determining this interesting point, 1 19 f but under present circumstances, a more particular survey must be deferred to a future time. There is yet another line of communication between the Kaministiquia and the Lake of Thousand Islands, on which I would offer a few remarks. A small river falls into the Kami- nistiquia from the westward, a few miles south of the Dog Portage. It is represented by the Indians who hunt in that part of the country as impracticable for a large canoe, but quite passable in a small one. There are numerous portages, and it appears to take its rise in the same line of swampy country over which we passed at the " Savanne.'* If a guide can be pro- cured, I shall endeavour, on the return voyage, to send a party to report upon it. The distance from the Lake of Thousand Islands to Fort William is travelled over in winter by that track in three or four days. From the Savanne River to the French Portage (which is the last long one on the route), the obstructions in the navigation are not of any great magnitude, and certainly do not present greater, if so great, difficulties as are met with on the route from York Factory to Red River. A small stream running to the southward of French Portage, admits of passing without making that portage at all, except the water be very low ; and this may be provided against by the erection of a barrier, for which there is abundant material. My own canoe passed that way, and the only impediment met with was from the overhanging branches and trees fallen across the stream, which being removed by my men enabled the other canoes to pass freely. From the French Portage to the Rainy Lake there are few portages, and those very short. Here again improvements may be made, which would increase the amount of open navigation, and facilitate greatly the transport of emigrants and goods. Having thus given a brief outline of past proceedings, I will now state the course I propose to take from here. I have engaged a guide to proceed with a party from the north-west end of the Lake of the Woods to Red River. The route is represented as being perfectly feasible in a small canoe, r ^l i 1 1 ■ 2a the only portage being the swampy height interwoven between the waters that fall into the Winipeg River. I am assured that this passage by Rat River will not occupy more than six or seven days, the party travelling with light equipment. The results of this interesting exploration I hope to transmit from Red River. I have also engaged another guide to lead a party from Rainy Lake to the Lake of the Woods, by the Riviere du Bois, which party will join me on my way to Red River at the Rat Portage. This tract is, as I am informed invariably used by the Indians, in coming from this port to the Lake of the Woods. It is much shorter, and they avoid the strong current of the Rainy River. I beg to refer to the accompanying brief reports by Messrs. Napier, Dawson, and Hind, for a statement, each in his par- ticular department, of the rivers of the route over which we have passed ; and I trust that the whole ol our joint proceedings will meet with the approval of the Government. I have the honor to remain, Sir, Your most obedient servant, (Signed,) Georoc Gladman. Honble. T. L. Terrill, Provincial Secretary, &c. &c. &c. -|! 21 I between sured that X or seven o transmit > to lead a is, by the ray to Red informed port to the avoid the by Messrs. in his par- ch we have edings will LADMAIf. Fort Francis, Lac La Pluie, 20th August, 1857. Sir, — I have the honor to report for the information of the Government, the safe arrival at this point yesterday of that portion of the Red River expedition under my charge, in com- pany with Professor Hind and Mr. Dawson. We arrived at Fort ^Villiam on the 31st ult., where we were detained three days, procuring men and preparing canoes. Whilst there we received the greatest kindness and assistance from Mr. James Mclntyre, the Honble. Hudson's Bay Com- pany's officer in charge of that Fort, but for whose prompt aid we might have been considerably retarded, as, from the near approach of the fishing season, men expressed a decided unwil- lingness to accompany us, and even those who finally consented to hire could not be induced to continue with us beyond the Rainy Lake. I have been informed by Mr. Gladman, that those men return to Fort William in the morning ; in accordance, therefore, with my instructions I beg to forward the ad interim report upon the nature of my operations hitherto and plans for the future. Owing to the very limited time for preparation, it must be but a very brief sketch. Mr. Dawson and Professor Hind, with their respective par- ties, left Fort William on the 3rd inst., and Mr. Gladman and I on the following day. On the 5th we all again met at the head of the Mountain Portage (Kallabeka Falls), since which time we have continued together, with the exception of Mr. Gladman, who parted from us on the 8th inst., at the Dog Lake Portage, considering it expedient to hasten with all speed to Fort Francis in order to make further arrangements as to men and equipage, to prevent any delay upon our arrival. In conjunction with Mr. Dawson, levels have been taken throughout from Fort William on Lake Superior, to this place, together with measurements and observations which, when com- pleted to the Red River Settlement, will afford sufficient data to form Plans and Sections of the entire route ; these, together »" .'Ml " <* --^ Iff I !l: ' 1 i ,i ' ii! i ■ i ■ I' ( 22 with a detailed report, I hope to be able to forward to you as soon as possible after my arrival at the settlement. Up to this lime we have been favoured with a continuance of fine weather, which we have taken every advantage of, inva- riably starting soon after day break, and not camping until a late hour in the evening ; the advanced period of tlie season rendering it expedient to hasten on with the least possible delay. In approaching the height of land dividing the water-shed of Lake Superior from that of Hudson's Bay, we experienced a gradual increase in the coldness of the nights ; on the night of the 15th inst., the thermometer fell as low as SS° Farht. ; as we descended this way the temperature has sensibly increased. From Fort William to this point, owing to various causes, the parties have all travelled by the same route ; but as from this place westward there are three distinct routes, which should undoubtedly be examined without delay in order to ascertain their respective merits, and which would be most deserving of more critical examination at a future period, it has bd^n decided to divide into three parties. Professor Hind and Mr. Dawson, in two small canoes, pro- ceed by the Roseau River from the Lake of the Woods to the Red River. Mr. Glad man, with the bulk of the party and baggage, in three north canoes, takes the usual route down the Rainy River to the Rat Portage at the end of the Lake of the" Woods, while I with one assistant in a small canoe, examined the northern route, from the Lac la Pluie, down the Rivifere des Bois to the Lake of the Woods, joining Mr. Gladman at the Rat Portage. We purpose starting from here in the morning, and hope to reach the Red River Settlements by the end of the month. Since our arrival at Fort Francis, we have experienced the greatest assistance and attention from Mr. R. Pether, the Hud- son's Bay Company's officer in charge. He has kindly furnished us with guides, and the small canoes necessary for making these separate explorations ; besides affording us a deal of valuable 3? to you as inuance of I of, inva- ing until a he season t possible ter-shed of erienced a le night of •ht. ; as we eased. causes, the ,s from this lich should ascertain eserving of bn decided information concerning the country through which we have to pass : indeed, from the general good feeling exhibited towards ns by all the Company's officers whom we have as yet met, we may reasonably expect similar assistance at other posts, which in this country we feel to be essentially necessary, both for safety and comfort. We have been exceedingly fortunate in finding the waters in the rivers at an excellent pitch for running the heavy rapids, through all of which we have as yet passed without a single accident, and from all we can ascertain of the remaining portion of our journey, we have every confidence of arriving at our destination with safety, and in good season. I have the honor to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant, (Signed,) W. E. Napmr. f» inoes, pro- }ods to the party and 5 down the ake of the" examined He Rivifere ladman at e morning, the end of •ienced the , the Hud- r furnished king these f valuable 1,^" 24 OorT or Ohabt by Indian guide of Um route ptopoeed to be taken from Lake of the Woods to Red River, by Uviakeg River (E) swamp^ and Muskeg River (W) into Reed River. H..Y. Him Rainy Lake, 20th August, 186*7. A' 96 FoBT Francis, Raint Lake, 20th August, 1857. Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that I arrived at Fort Francis, Rainy Lake, in company with the other members of the Red River expedition, on the evening of August 10th. The misfortune which happened to the steamer CoIIingwood near Michipicoton Island, and the necessary arrangements for procuring men and canoes at Fort William, delayed our de- parture from that establishment of the Hon. Hudson's Bay Com- pany until Monday, August 3rd, at 5 p. m., when, in company with two canoes conveying Mr. Dawson and his assistants, I proceeded with my assistant, Mr. I. Fleming, up the Kaministiquia River. The general plan of observation adopted at starting, and con- tinued up to the present time, has been as follows : When in canoe,, we took the courses of the rivers and lakes by compass, noting the distance of each turn by time and the speed of the canoe, to serve as the basis of a general geological and topographical chart of the route ; we directed especial attention to all rock exposures on the banks of the rivers and on the shores of the lakes, and where no doubt existed as to their character, appended to each record of such exposure its appropriate designation and position on the chart. Similar attention was directed to the general character of the vegetation, and the different kinds of trees were enumerated ; also, as far as opportunity would permit, the nature of the soil, and the rock on which it reposed. The temperature of the rivers and lakes was ascertained several Times during the day. I have also noted in a daily journal the different kinds of animals seen, and all other inci- dents or observations which appear to possess any importance or interest. When crossing the portages or when in camp, our attention was directed to the collections of specimen of rock, and in some instances of subsoils, also to the determination of the dip, strike, and mineral characteristic of the rocks ; to the collection and preservation of all kinds of vegetable met with ; and when ( . il hn 26 opportunity offered wo ascended some neighbouring hill or emi- nence, and took general bearings by means of prismatic com- pass. A minimum thermometer enabled me to keep a record of the minimum temperature during the night. The canoe assigned to me proved unfortunately to be, not only very slow, but in bad travelling condition, requiring con- stant repair, and no small canoe being attached to the brigade, I have not been able to visit many localities out of the direct line of route, and even had such a canoe been available, it is not probable that much use could have been made of it, as the bri- gade was compelled, with its heavily ladened components, to push on to our destination with the least possible delay. The weather has hitherto been very favorable, and the waters of the rivers and lakes, for this season of the year, unusually high. At Fort William I received, in common I believe with every member of the expedition, great kindness and ready assistance from the gentleman in charge, Mr. Mclntyre. The health of the people in my canoe has been uniformly good with the exception of one Ojibway Indian, who acted as bowman ; he has not been able to work for four days, and is now in a very weak condition. The time at my disposal will not permit me to enter upon a description of the country wc have traversed, and I am therefore compelled to limit this id interim rnport to a few general re- marks, in relation to past observations and future plans. The whole of the country from the Portage D*£cartier, on the Kaministiquia to the foot of the Rainy Lake, shows a constant recurrence of the so-called primary or unfossiliferous rock, com- prising granite, gneiss, micaceous, chloritic and stomblcndic schists. Below the fulls of llainy River I have this day seen abundance of silurian limestone in detached masses, without, however, meeting with the rocks in situ. The aspect of the country about the extensive and beautiful Lake of the Thousand Islands, and in many other localities on the shores of the larger lakes, bears traces in all directions of having, at a not very remote period, been covered with magni- 27 ficent forests of white and red pine, and also, in patches with the pitch pine of the voyageurs, a tree which now prevails in its second growth, with aspen and birch. Everywhere, isolated, groves or trees of white and red pine of large dimensions occur, and among the comparative young forest growth, are seen scathed or half burnt trunks of large dimensions, remaining as witnesses of vast conflagrations, at the diflerent epochs, which have spread over many thousand square miles. The region about Dog Lake, Lake of the Thousand Islands, Sturgeon Lake, &c., is very interesting and in some respects promising, while the shores about Rainy Lake are by no means inviting. In relation to my future operations, I beg leave to state that I proceed with the main party to the Lake of the Woods, and then in company with Mr. Dawson, pass up the Muskeg (swamp) River, cross the dividing ridge or swamp, and go down Roseau River, according to an enclosed copy of a rough plan which an Indian from that part of the country drew for me this morning. We shall be compelled to travel as light as possible in two of the smallest sized canoes, capable of holding three persons each. Mr. Dawson will take one canoe, with a guide and an Iroquois Indian. I shall have a similar canoe with the Indian guide who drew the map and a French Canadian voyageur. The only difficulty we apprehend is the accidental meeting of a returning war party of the Lac La Pluie Indians, who have been on •* the war path" against the Sioux. We trust, however, to the proper interpretations of our reasons for travelling through that part of the country, being made to any Indians we may happen to meet by the guide in Mr. Dawson's canoe, who has been kindly permitted to go with us by Mr. Pethcr, the gentleman in charge of Fort Francis. This precaution Mr. Pether considered to be necessary, not only on account of the possible treachery of the Indian guide, but because the Lac La Pluie Indians have, it is here stated, prevented the l)otanist attached to Cnpt. Palliscr's party from continuing his botanical explorations, and have expressed con- siderable anxiety and feeling, at so large a number of white men '» ► flr^^ 1 1 coming into their country, for reasons which they profess they cannot understand. Mr. Fleming will proceed with Mr. Gladman down the Win- ipeg River to Lake Winipeg and Bed River, and will continue to make and record observations similar in character to those in which he has been hitherto engaged. I propose to return to Toronto by way of Penbina and St. Paul's, as that route will afford much longer time for exploration and inquiry in the Red River country besides offering oppor- tunities for obtaining information of interest or value. I have, &c. &c. (Signed,) H. Y. Hind, M. A. To the Honorable The Provincial Secretary, Toronto. 21st August, 1867. P. S. — Since the foregoing report was written, I have been informed that the guide who was permitted by Mr. Pether to accompany us to Red River by the Muskeg route, will not be able to give us the benefit of his services on account of illness ; we shall be therefore compelled to rely on the good faith of the Indian who drew the original of the accompanying plan, but who has already expressed fears that his people will upbraid him for showing us the way through this comparatively unknown country. H. Y. H. 29 Raint Lake Fall, Fort Francis, 20th August, 1857. Sir, — I have the honor to report that we are so far on our way to Red River ; but as the canoes make but a short delay, there is no time for compiling a detailed statement, or writing a particular description of the country through which we have passed, I must therefore be brief. After arriving at Fort William it was determined upon that all the parties should proceed by the way of the Kaministiquia, Dog Lake, and the Lake of the Thousand Lakes to Rainy Lake. On the evening of the 3rd instant I started in company with Professor Hind. Next morning Mr. Gladman and Mr, Napier followed, and came up with us on the succeeding day at the Grand Portage ; from thence all the parties have travelled in company, Mr. Gladman preceding us by a day's journey in a well manned canoe to this place, in the hope of being able to engage men to replace the Indians hired at Fort William, none of whom could be induced to accompany us further, on account, as Mr. Mclntyre informed us, of the dread they enter- tain of the Indians in the direction of Red River. But now that we are here, only two or three Indians can be found, nearly all the tribes being either on their hunting-grounds, or out towards Pembina, on an excursion against the Sioux, with whom they are at feud. The greatest portion of the party Mr. Gladman will take with him, by the usual ronte, the Winipeg River and Lake to Red River, in three large canoes, manned partly by the Iroquois who are with us, and partly by the young gentlemen assistants who accompany the expedition. The chief of the geological branch, Professor Hind, and I, are to cross the country from the Lake of the Woods, by way of Reed River ; my principal assistant, Mr. Wells, will ac- company the party going by the Winipeg River, while Mr. Napier, with some of his staff, proceeds by the Indian route to the north of Rniny Lake ; once arrived at Red River, Mr. Gladman is confident of being able to engage men, and pro- cure provisions ; so that we shall then, I sincerely trust, be in a position to organize proper working parties. I t, 'r,|: f! i!,':l ' ,]'"■ 30 I have made a careful estimate of the distances as we pro- ceeded, and traced the outline of the rivers and lakes, besides which I have obtained Indian charts of the streams near the line of route, and also of some of the rivers falling in on the north shore of Lake Superior. All of which appear to be drawn with great fidelity. The temperature has been duly registered, but the nature of our progress would not admit of regular barometrical observa- tions ; but these, as soon as an opportunity offers, shall be duly attended to. In taking the levels of the different rapids and falls, where there were portages, Mr. Napier and I, in order that no delay might be occasioned, have acted in concert, going alternately in advance ; or where there was much work to be done, com- mencing at once from either end of the space, over which the levels had to be taken. By this means we avoided delaying the canoes in the least by our operations. Immediately on arriving at Red River I shall report at length, giving a full description of the country we have traversed. In the meantime I can only endeavor to convey very briefly a general idea of the route. The Kaministlquia is but a small stream, not so large quite, I should say, as the River Trent, which falls into the Bay of Quint6. For the first ten miles or so it is smooth, and the navigation for canoes unimpeded, there is then a continuous fiat rapid to the Grand or Kakabeka Falls, which, however, is not so difficult but that canoes can be poled up with facility. From the Grand Falls upward to Dog Lake the river is exceed- ingly rough, there being a continuous succession of falls and rapids, with but short intervals of smooth water between them. From Dog Lake there is nearly forty miles of uninterrupted canoe navigation, by a small stream that winds through a marsh ; then occur two little rapids, over one of which a portage has to be made ; afler which the route lies by a narrow brook, just wide enough for the canoes, which runs from Cold Water Lake, the source of this branch of the St. Lawrence. Across the height of land, taking the Prairie, Savanne, and another little portage •. '1 3 pro- jsides ar the Dn the to be ture of iserva- e duly where ) delay rnately ;, com- lich the slaying I length, ed. In riefly a 5 quite, Bay of ind the inuous 5ver, is facility, jxceed- llls and them. rrupted mrsh ; has to jk, just Lnke, height )ortage jm& 31 together, there is a land carriage of nearly five miles, broken only by two little lakes or ponds. From the Savanne Portage to the Lake of the Thousand Lakes, there is no impediment except from trees that have fallen across the stream. Leaving the lake just named, the route passes by a chain of lakes to the Mhnackan River, the northern branch of which runs into Rainy Lake, as shown on the plan, a copy of which has been furnished me. The navigation throughout, although tedious, is not difficult ; we ran no dangerous rapid, and as to finding the way, it is well known to all the Indians and Voyageurs, and is not by any means intricate. In regard to its general features, the country is varied. The valley of the lower part of the Kaministiquia is, I should think, well adapted for settlement. On ascending, however, the land becomes very rough and broken, although the hills are of no great elevation. Dog Lake is a large sheet of water, with nume- rous islands interspersed. The land rises to n considerable ele- vation round it, but the hills are not steep or in continuous ranges, but swell up gradually as it were in isolated mounds. The prevailing growth of timber, as far as could be perceived, seemed to be poplar, of a large size, and birch ; the undergrowth is however, in some cases, of maple, and I dare say, that that description of wood may be found inland, although not in great quantities. I have not made up my notes so as to be able to give the exact elevation of this lake above Lake Superior ; but £ may state that the difference of level in round numbers exceeds 700 feet. From Dog Lake upwards the Kaministiquia, or, as it is here called, Dog River, winds through a marsh varying from half a mile to a mile in width ; on either side the country is of the same character as at Dog Lake. At the Prairie Portage, which here forms the dividing raidge between the waters flowing in this direction and those running towards the St. Lawrence, the country appears comparatively level, covered with a dense growth of pitch-pine, spruce, tama- rack, white birch, and on the rising ground, poplar. The ^»'\ '•y m \ .. I 4 Savannc Portage is nothing more than aa ordinary spruce and tamarack swamp, with about two feet of soft vegetable mould over a bliff bottom of yellow clay. At the Lake of the Thousand Lakes, I think there must be good soil. The green woods inland appeared to me like maple, and on the islands and projecting points there is in some instances white pine of a large growth. Although the country appears to be considerably elevated, there are properly speaking no hills. The land rises gradually from the lake, presenting a smoothly swelling outline against the dis- tant horizon. The other lakes between the Lake of the Thousand Lakes and this place, have the same general character, of being dotted with islands, but the country about them is in general more broken than at that lake. In some cases there appeared to be abundance of red and white pine of a good size. As regards the climate or the soil, no correct inference can be drawn, as in other countries, from the growth of wood. From the Grand Lakes on the Ka- ministiquia to this place, the whole country seems at no very distant period to have been over-run by fire. Li every direction in going into the woods, are to be found the charred remains of a former growth, and where an extensive view presents itself, solitary trees or isolated groves of tall white pines stand out from forests of surrounding poplar. There can be no doubt, however, that the climate about the height of land, from the great elevation of the country, must be rather cold. Where we now are, 1 should say it was something like the climate of the Ottawa. At the Hon. Hudson's Bay Company's farm at this place, the pota- toes look luxuriant, and the spring wheat is fast ripening. Should the route by which we have come, be adopted as the leading highway to the Bed River, the communication might be made easy, so far as the source of the Kaministiquia, by making a good road from Thunder Bay to Dog Lake, and throwing a dam 16 feet in height across the outlet of that lake, which would have the effect of converting the marsh through which Dog River winds into a lake as far as the Prairie Poitage at the height of land. Kaministiquia from Dog Lake down, tumbling as it does, as far as the Grand Portage, over broken rocks, and down steep ip'M declivities, with its barren and rugged shores, can n^ter be made an available route for traffic. I merely advert to these dubjectSi and shall report more at leisure on reaching Red Kiver. In tbo meantime I cannot close this letter without mentioning the >d attention and assistance we have met from the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company. But for Mr. Mclntyrc, w« should have had difficulty in getting men at Fort William. So anxious was he to aid us, and forward us on our journey, that he not only used his all-powerful influence with the Indians, to induce them to go with us, but actually took his own men from the work they were at, and made them come. Mr. Pether, the officer in charge of this place, has not been less obliging. He has obtained us guides for the different routes by which we are going, and has otherwise been most civil and attentive. I have the honor to be. Sir, ^ Your most, &c., &c. S. J. D/LwaoN. I. .V ti' v' .' 5. A , Public Works, Toronto, 30th November, 1867. Sir, — ^With reference to a communication of Mr. 0. Gladman^ transferred by you to this department, with a list of payments due on account of the Red River expedition, I am directed tO' request that you will furnish this office with a statement of the rates of pay respectively to be allowed to the persons employed in that service. I hive the honor to be. Sir, Your obedient servant, Thomajs, a. Beolt.. The Honorable The Provincial Secretary. ;i I ■ii n: i! ; ' ' } ' 1 - I 1 ' ' ^ •r v! f'ii 1 i, ,1 ! ;, Ji i i ll' :\:iij\ \]' i| 34 The President of the Council has the honor to submit the annexed list, marked Schedule A, which contains the names of the parties composing the expedition to Red River, as organized in the month of July last, with the rates of pay, which, on consul- tation with the Commissioner of Public Works and the Commis- sioner of Crown Lands, were provided for the different members of the party. No formal minute in the Council sanctioning these rates appears to have been made, and it is respectfully suggested that a minute in Council should be now passed accordingly, to avoid confusion. (Signed,) P. M. Vankoughnet, President Council. Toronto, 6th January, 1857. On a memorandum dated the 5th instant, from the Hon. the President of the Executive Council, submitting the annexed l.\^:t marked Schedule A, which contains the names of the parties composing the Expedition to the Red River, as organized in the month of July last, with the rates of pay which, on consultation with the Commissioners of Public Works and the Commissioner of Crown Lands, were provided for the different members of the party. No formal minute in Council having been made, sanctioning the rates mentioned, the President suggests that a minute in Council be now passed accordingly to avoid confusion. The Committee recommend that the rates of pay assigned to each member of the expeditionin the accompanying list be sanc- tioned. Certified. ibmit the names of organized un consul- ; Gommis- , members ning these suggested dingly, to [NET, it Council. Hon. the nexed l:.':t he parties 5ed in the insultation imissioner ers of the nctioning iiinute in signed to ; be sanc- ■:'«\ 35 (A.) Names of the Expedition Party y 2Srd July, 1857. Geo. Gl adman Director Pay, 35s. per day. Henry Gladman .... Assistant " W. H. E. Napier . . Engineer H.H.Killaly ...... Leveller Ed. Cayley J Chainmen and C. DeSalaberry . . ( General Assistants. u u (( (( Assistant Leveller. u u J. Cayley. , _ , ( Rodman, &c. S. J. Dawson Surveyor L, Russell Chainman " G.F.Gaudet Do « Campbell Do " Professor Hind Geologist " W.Fleming Assistant " A. W. Wells... Assistant to Mr. Dawson, appointed by instructions to Mr. . Dawson from Crown Land office . . " £20' J. Dickenson.. Engineer (Volunteer) en- gaged at the request of Mr, Napier, to accompany the party without pay. Remained at Fort William. Robert Wigmore, .Employed to superin- tend making of road, building tem- porary store and dwelling at Point de Meuron on Fort William River, 4 months, at £12 10s £50 panoe-men engaged at 5s. per day. £20 per month. 30s. per day. £20 per month. 7s. 6d. per day. 7s. 6d. if • >i u liiliil! q,t M fi i'wm n w Hht a rt i il ^:! If-M I Red River Settlement, 8th September, 1867. Sir, — Mjr last letter wa* addressed to you from Rainy Lnke. I now beg to acquaint you with the arrival here of myself^ Professor Hind, and Mr. Napier, with the greater number of our party, safe and well. Mr. Dawson was detached, at Rainy Lake, from oar main party, as already advised, wiib instructions to proceed by tjkd Red River to Fort Garry, making such observation of the route as time and circumstances rni^l.t permit. Most unfortunately, that gentleman became alarmingly ill, and after ascending the lower part of the stream was obliged to retrace his &tej^, and,, following the course of the main party, arrived at the MisdioA Sta.ion, Islington, on the Winipeg River, where his illnesa obliged Professor Hind to leave him until the atate of his heal h would permit his removal to this» settlement. I have sent a canoe for him, and hope by the aid of medical advice and attention, that he will soon be here and able to resume the duties of Exploration and Survey. At Fort William, the information I had previously received of the portages on the Pigeon River, being chiefly cm the American side of the frontier line, and necessarily so» was confirmed. On arriving at Rainy Lake, however, I made fur- ther inquiry on this point, and that information was distinctly corroborated. I then directed my attention to the best means of opening the communication between the Lake of the V^oodlt and this settlement. Meeting with many conflicting state- ments, I thought our best course would be to explore thoroughly (which has never yet been done) the whole country between the Red River and the Lake of the Woodsy and thus determine with certainty how and where the best line of eomnrMinieatioH could be carried through. I therefore leave instructions with Mr. Napier, to examine during the autumn, winter, and spring, the section of country between the Stone Fort and the Rat Portage, as far south as the Rat River ; and have assigned to Mr. Dawson the exploration of the other section (south of the R.it River, to the boundary line, between the upper part of the |i'i„ii • M 37 Red River and the Lake of the Woods. I look upon this as a very important part of the survey, inasmuch as tlie communir cation by the Winipe^ River may be considered as of no prac- tical utility. The boat navig>ition of that river is exceedingly broken and interrupted by heavy falUi and rapids, as well as being very circuitous, thus increasing the distance also very greatly. I therefore think it will be quite unnecessary to occupy our time any further in explorations or measurements of that route. I have made every arrangement in my power for the support and comfort of the parties whom I shall leave here. They have an ample field of employment, and I have no doubt they will acquit themselves with the same zeal and energy which they have hitherto displayed. In the month of June next they will extend their survey to Rainy Lake, and it will be necessary to have supplies sent to meet them at that point, as soon as the opening of navigation in spring will admit of their being sent forward. On this point I shall have plans to submit when I arrive at Toronto. Mr. Hind purposes remaining at the settlement until the first week of October, when he will leave for St. Paurg, accompanied by three other gentlemen of our expedition party. There will then be left for the winter, Mr, Dawson, with his assistants, Me? rs. Wells, Gaudet, and Russell; an4 Mr. Napier and his assistants, Messrs. Killaly, DeSaiaberry, and Campbell. I shall be prepared to set out on my return to Canada on the 11th, and hope to arrive at Toronto on the 15tl| or 20th October. The reports of ray colleagues in this expedition cannot be got ready dur'- he short period of my stay her^. They will consequentl e insmitted by Professor Hind. I beg leave i advise having drawn, on account of the expe- dition, for twenty pounds currency, favor of John Rowand, Esq., being to cover the expenses of Mr. John Cayley from Red River to St. Paul's, which draft will, I hope, be duly accepted and paid. it^-'iiih . Ti(- '%•.". I|j:^';fi ! ■ 38 The arrangements for the wintering of my party necessarily occupy a large portion of my time, therefore I defer my report on the route until I shall reach Toronto. I have the honor to remain, Sir, Your most obedient and very humble servant, George Gladman. To the Honorable The Provincial Secretary, Toronto. Islington Mission, Winipeg River, 30th August, 1857. Sir, — The circumstances which have led to the opportunity now afforded ine of informing you of the result of an attempt to penetrate from Lake of the Woods to Red River by way of Muskeg River, as intimated in my last report, will be best ex- plained by a brief narrative of proceedings since our departure from Fort Francis. It will, perhaps, be sufficient to state meanwhile that I am detained at this mission by the illness of Mr. Dawson, who is prostrated by a very severe attack of remittent fever, and I am much pained to say that if no favorable change takes place within the next twenty-four hours, I find difficulty in suppressing a feL«r that the most distressing results may be antici[>ated. Under any circumstances, he will probably not be able to regain his usual health and strength for some weeks. As I do not intend to take any decisive step until to-morrow, for reasons which will appear in the course of this narrative, I beg leave to occupy the time which is thus painfully placed at my disposal in penning this re))ort. On Saturday, August 2'2nd, I started from Fort Francis at noon, in company with Mr. Dawson, for Muskeg River, Like of the Woods. We were provided with two small canoes fit for transportation through the swamp which separates the water-shed of Red River from that of the western shores of the Lake of the 1 i ! lecessarily my report rvant, .ADMAN. jt, 1857. >pportunity attempt to by way of be best ex- r departure that I am son, who is and I am kcs place uppressing nticipatcd. e to regain I do not or reasons jr leave to disposal in ran c is at r, Like of »C8 fit for water-shed akc of the ^; 39 Woods. In Mr. Dawson's canoe were a French Canadian (Francois) and an Iroquois (Pierre.) In my canoe an Indian guide from Garden Island, Lake of the Woods, and Lambert, a French Canadian, who acted as interpreter. We were furnished with provisions to last for ten days, one change of clothing, a small tent, and a pair of blankets each. RAINY RIVER. The valley of Rainy River afforded a very delightful contrast to the barren shores of Rainy Lake, and for a distance of sixty miles offered the utmost luxuriance of vegetation and all the aspects of a most promising field for future settlement. I made numerous enquiries of the Indian guide during our journey res- pecting the breadth of the valley, and the answers received coupled with the statements of Mr. Pether, the gentleman in charge of Fort Francis, and my own and Mr. Dawson's observa- tions have enabled me to form a definite idea of its geology, and to furnish a tolerably accurate view of its extent and capabilities. On the north, or British side, the valley of Rainy River is of variable breadth; behind Fort Francis it is bounded by a swamp, distant from the fort about half a mile. The swamp soon retires from the river, until it is distant half a day's journey from it, or from twelve to fifteen miles. Near the Lake of the Woods it again approaches the river, and about twelve miles from its mouth the valley is three hours' journey in breadth, which may be represented by from seven to nine miles. The Itidian guide said that the valley on the United States side was similar in many respects to the northern half. He de- scribed it as also bounded by a swamp, with several ranges of low hills crossing it at nearly right angles, two of which occur at the rapid:} on the river, and others approach and terminate at the south bank, the river gently sweeping round them. Confining my observations almost exclusively to the British side, the description which follows refers solely to the valley on the northern bank. The river flows upon an alluvial bed partly of its own forma- tion, the materials being derived probably in groat pari from !l: 40 llie mitting away of the drift clay and sand which constituteB tlie higher of two plateaux by which its boundary is now defined. The first or lowest plateau is generally from twelve to fifteen fbat above the present water level ; it I'requently terminates on the river in abrupt low clay bluff::!, capped with loam and sand^ or rich alluvial deposits. Behind the lowest plateau, and often almost imperceptibly rising from it, a second plateau occurs, elevated above the first from fifteen to thirty feet ; occa^ionally both plateaux come upon the river together in one bold bluflf, often forty feet in altitude, and again the lower plateau is sometimes found to occupy the bank without the higher one in the rear, being visible from a oanoe. The separation of these plateaux is a very important item in the description of the topography and general characteristics of Rainy River. Where the lower plateau is alone visible, the vegetation it snstains is often characteristic of a poor and sandy soil. Red pines, some of them of fair dimensions, red cedar and small poplars occupy it, and if any passer by wore to draw an inference from the prevailing timber which, in such situations, meets the eye, he would at once form the opinion that the land was compara- tively worthless. But let him cross the lower plateau until he reaches at a distance of two hundred yards, or perhaps a quarter or half a mile, the higher plateau, and the magnificent growth of poplar, baUn of gilead, with elm and basswood, would quickly reverse such judgments. As far an I penetrated in different places baolc from the river, the soil of the higher plateau was of admirable quality, and supported a heavy growth of timber. The day upon which it rested was often exposed by the steep banks of numerous sluggish streams which cut the plateau to nearly the level of Rainy River, and evidently form channels by which the swamps in the rear are drained. I often observed what I cohgidered to be drift clay, when high bluffs, formed by the union of the two plateaux, came upon the XVf^f' The accompanying teotion will perhaps serve to show f lonstitutes w defined, to fifieeti iiiiales on and sand^ erceptibly 'e the first lome upon n altitude, ccupy the le from a nt item in eristics of ;etation it soil. Red all poplars ence from s the eye, compara- u uniil he \ a quarter nt growth (1 quickly different au was of f timber. the steep )Iateau to annels by \rhen hij;;h upon tho » \r} show 41 the relation of the several parts of the valley of Rainy River to one another : The following extracts from my journal will convey a more correct impression of the country than a brief description. Nu- merous items of interest, however, are necessarily omitted here, which will appear in the general report to be furnished when I return to Toronto. Extracts from Journal. August 22nd. ***** Dined about twelve miles below Fort Francis, on a high bank destitute of trees, which had pro- bably been destroyed long ago by the Indians or by fire. The ground is covered by the richest profusion of rose bushes, wood- bine, convolvulus in bloom, Jerusalem artichoke just beginning to flower, and vetches of the largest dimensions. Fringing this open interval of perhaps two hundred and eighty acres in extent, were elms, balm of gilead, ash and oak. One elm tree measured three feet in diameter, or nine feet eight inches in circumference, and there is no exaggeration in saying that our temporary camping place is like a rich, overgrown and neglected garden. The golden rod is shewing its rich hue in all directions, and gives a distinct yellow tint to an open grassy area on the oppo- site side of the river, at the mouth of Red Lake River. Similar intervals to the one on which we are now encamped have been noticed occasionally, and hitherto the banks have maintained an average altitude of about forty feet, bearing a fine growth of the trees before named. No part of the country through which we have passed from Lake Superior westward, can bear comparison with the rich banks of Rainy River thus far. The river has preserved a very uniform breadth, varying only from two hundred to three hundred yards. The soil is a sandy loam at the surface, much mixed with the vegetable maiter. Occasionully where the bank has recently fallen away, the clay is seen stratified in layers about two inches in thickness, follow- ing in all respects the contour of what seems to be unstratified drift clay below. Baeswood is not uncommon, and sturdy oaks, whose trunks are from eighteen inches to two feet in diameter, are seen in > III Ml ■'ll!i|| ■'■■y: "I f'' 42 open groves, with luxuriant grasses and climbing plants growing beneath them. The lodge-poles of an Indian camp of former seasons are covered with convolvulus in bloom, and the honey- suckle is twining its long and tenacious stems around the nearest support living or dead. # * # # # * * * The banks of the river maintain for twenty miles (the distance we have now come) an altitude varying from fifteen to sixty feet. Occasionally the banks show abrupt boun- daries of the plateaux. The lower boundary having the form of a sloping bank or an abrupt cliff of from fifteen to thirty feet in altitude on the river. The upper plateau rising gradually or abruptly from fifteen to twenty feet higher, according to its posi- tion with reference to the river. There is every appearance, in places, of fire having destroyed a former larger growth of trees than those which occupy now these areas. * * * The extraordinary height of the water at this season of the year is seen by the lodge-poles of former Indian encampments at the foot of the bank being under water to a depth of one and even two feet ! The river does not appear to rise high in the spring, as the trees fringing the banks to the water's edge show no action of ice. Mr. Petlier states that the river never freezes between the Falls at Fort St. Francis and the Big Fork, a distance of twelve miles, or between Rainy Lnke and the Falls, a distance of throe miles. The difference between the highest and the lowest water levels may be seven feet, and no records of recent higher levels meet the eye. # # # # # Augu-^t 23rd. • ♦ • Reached the Rapid of Rainy River* at a quarter past six, a. m They let us down about two and a * Two iu number ; aro oiipuble of l>uiu>; ascondeJ by a Rinall steamer of good powor without iliffluiilty, aiuloatinot bo ooiisidereii as preiioiitiiig an obstiicle to the uavigatioii of this iinportattt stream, ua long as tho water maintains its presont altitude, which is nb)ut tliree foot hij^her than is usual at this seasim of the year, but often ext'ouiud in spriu'^. Mi-. Dawson inf»rm3 mj that two 1oc))ine tho falls at tho mouth of tho river, and thus form a aplculid wator ciMnmunication butwoen the head of Rainy Lake and the foot of tho Laku uf the W^uods — a dUtaace of about one hundred and eighty uilei— (18U). I 43 3 growing of former le honey- lie nearest * * jnty miles ring from upt boun- le form of thirty feet adually or to its posi- destroyed icupy now !r at this ner Indian prater to a appear to iks to the ween the of twelve e of three le lowest nt higher * * ny River* wo and a mor of good )stiiclo to the 8 its preseDt of the year, M of ten feet ho river, and y Liiko and d and eighty § half or three feet, and appeared to be caused by a belt of rock crossing the river at right angles to its course. On the American side the hill range has an altitude of about eighty feet, on the Canadian side it is much lower and appears to subside in gentle undulations. High clay banks are ex- posed above and below the rapids. I was much surprised at the number of birds of different kinds, chirrupping and singing in the light and warmth of a bright morning sun, I heard more birds in ten minutes there, than during the whole journey from Kakabeka Falls, on the Kaministiquia. * # * At the second rapids, an extensive area, destitute of trees, offers a very beautiful prairie appearance. Here we landed to examine two immense mounds, which appear.d to be tumuli. We forced our way to them through a dense growth of grasses, nettles, and Jerusalem artichokes, twisted together by wild convolvolus. On our way to the mounds we passed through a neglected Indian garden, and near it we observed the lodge polls of an extensive encampment. The garden was partially fenced, and contained a path of Jerusalem artichokes six and seven feet high in the stalk, and just beginning to show their flowers. The wild oat here attained an astonishing size, and all the vegetation exhibited the utmost luxuriance. The mound ascended was about 40 feet high, and 100 broad at th^ base ; it was composed of a rich black sandy loam, containing a large quantity of voiictable matter. On digging a foot deep, no change in the character of the soil was observable. The In- dian guide called them underground houses. # « # * * * Abour, three hundred yards below the second rapids, twenty-three skeletons of Indian lodges are seen, all clothed witij the wild convolvolus, and now serving as records of the love of change which seem to form a characteristic in the habits of this barbarous race who possess, without appre- ciating or cnjojring, the riches of this beautiful and most fertile valley. ' I 44 Limestone fragments and boulders, more or less water-worn, with pebbles of the same rock, are found everywhere on the beach at the ft ot of the clay or loamy banks. * # * When we landed for dinner to-day, 1 strolled about half a- mile back from the river, and Mr. Dawson went about half-ar mile further. We found the vegetation improving fast as we receded from the river. Aspens of very large dimensions, balm of gilead, basswood, birch and oak, with some elm, formed the forest. The land rose very gradually, and on enquir- ing from the Indian how far back the good land stretched before coming to the swamp, he said that here the valley was broadesl, and it would take us half-a-day to reach the swamps, journeying the whole time through land similar to that around us, but with larger trees. The singular topographical knowledge acquired by these Indians, and (as far as we have yet been able to ascertain,) the accuracy and fidelity with which they communicate it, assures us of the Indian's statement; we shall have opportunities of testing his knowledge of these matters soon, which must not be overlooked. «*##**** The remaining portion of llainy River exhibited features similar to those already described in foregoing extracts from my journal. There are numerous items of interest relating to the geology, topography, soil and Indians, which I have not thought proper to introduce in this brief sketch, as they will form a part of my general report. Mr. Pether, of Fort Francis, informed me that the swamps in the rear of Rainy River valley, consists of a peaty accumula- tion, through which a pole may be thrust in places to a depth of thirty feet without finding bottom. The guide stated that the swamp supported no large trees, but a thick growth of low bushes. As we approached the Lake of the Woods, the river in- creased in breadth, and at each bend a third low plateau was in process of formation, often two and three hundred acres in area, and elevated above the present high water level from one ater-worn, ere on the * * )out balfa- >out half-Er !iist as we imensions, some elm, on enquir- hed before s broadest, ourneying ad us, but by these irtain,) the it, assures tunities of must not 1 features acts from lating to have not they will vamps in ccumula- a depth •ge trees, river in- u was in acres in Vom one m to three feet. Coarse grasses grow in abundance upon many of the rich outlying alluvial deposits, and it appears very probable that in ordinary seasons they would furnish some thousand acres of rich pasture land, as the gr.tsses are like those which, on the Kaministiquia, the settlers cut for their winter supply of foddci' for cattle. Near the mouth of the river the tall tops of a few red and white pines rise fttr above the aspens occupying the lower plateau, and a vast reedy ex- panse, probably in ordinary seasons available for grazing purposes, marks the junction of Rainy River with the Lake of the Woods. Omitting for the present the enumeration of some interesting phenomena observed and recorded in our traverse of the Lake of the Woods direct to Garden Island, near the western coast, 1 must be content with mentioning that on the evening of August 24th, we camped near a well cultivated field of Indian corn, and a rapid exploration of the isian i revealed to us a large potato patch, and a small area devoted to squashes and pumpkins of different kinds. We ascertained that the island had been cultivated by the Lake of the Woods Saulteux Indians f)p generations. Mr. Dawson and the Iroquois, Pierre, both complained for the first time that evening of being unwell. Our caiDp fire evidently soon attracted the attention of a number of Indrans, who were then living on a neighboring island about four miles from us, for at midnight we were aroused by the sudden appearan^'e at the door of the tent of two of these people, and in half an hour twei+ly or more had arrived. In the morning we answered their enquiries, and were requested to visit their chii f, who rem: chief's son, who was amongst the first arrivals on the evening previouty announced that the canoes were coming. •''* ill II; li, ll;- . We counted thirteen canoes, and found that they contained in all fifty-three men and boys, there being seven of the latter ; the others were the chief and warriors of the tribe. A portion of them had just returned from an expedition against the Sioux, and were decorated or disfigured, according to taste, with whatever advantages paint, feathers, and ornaments could con- fer. As the object of their visit was to ascertain the reasons why we wished to pass through this part of their country, and as some excitement had been occasioned among them by Capt. Palliser's party, briefly referred to in my former report, I con- siuered it necessary to note with care the conversation which ensued, and previously arranged with Mr. Dawson what our line of conduct should be, in anticipation of not improbable difficulties. The following conversation then took place, Lambert acting as interpreter, receiving the necessary questions and replies from Mr. Dawson and myself: Chief. — " Tell them all these they see around me are my own tribe. It is our custom to smoke before talking. We shall follow the practice of our fathers.'* About half-an-hour was devoted to the distribution of tobacco, the filling of pipes, and the smoke, after which the chief resumed. Chief. — We do not think you will start to-day, we wish to know what you are doing in our country, (to the interpreter) what are these men, are they ministers, or surveyors, or what are they ? Reply.— V^e are instructed by our chief to journey to Red. River, and have been told to take this route. Chief. — We have heard that you have been gathering flowers, what does that mean ? Reply, — To amuse ourselves when on the portages or in camp ; we have gathered your flowers because some of them we have never seen before. Chief. — The white man looks at our flowers and trees and takes away the Indian's land. Did these men see nothing near the Fort on Rainv River ? ... i !i |.. l: 47 ontained in latter; the portion of t the Sioux, taste, with ( could con- Lhe reasons ountrv* and !m by Capt. port, I con- ition which 1 what our improbable ibert acting and replies me are my king. We of tobacco, the chief we wish to interpreter) rs, or what aey to Red. ng flowers, ages or in le of them trees and }thing near Reply. — They saw nothing extraordinary. Chief. — Did they not see a grave near the fort ? A single grave : a chief's grave. All these people here are descendants of that chief ; and they do not know for what purpose you have been sent here, or why you pass through this part of our country. < Reply. — We are merely travelling through the country, by the shortest route to Red River : we have said so before. Chief. — We ask this, because there are braves here who have not heard this reason for visiting our country, and we have asked it again that all may hear and know it. All around belong to one tribe and are one people ; we are poor, bu*^ we have hearts, and do not wish to part with our country. Reply. — Our Government have no intention of taking your country, and have no wish to interfere with your property in any way ; we are anxious to be on friendly terms with yoa. Chief. — Some people are gone down the Great River from the Rat Portage two or three days ago, why did you not go with them ? Reply. — We were ordered to go this way to Red River ; and as your young men obey your orders, so do we those of our chief. A Brave. — Why did their chief send them by this route ? Reply.— Owv government gave orders to our chief and he told us to go by this route to Red River ; they thought it was the shortest way : we are not traders but messengers. A Brave. — Why did you not go with your chief ? Reply.—Oar chief sent us, and waits for us at Red River. He will return by the Rat Portage, and give every explanation to you ; he will return in three weeks. Chief.— We think you want to do something with these paths, and that is the reason why you have been sent. Reply.— We have been sent by this route because it is the shortest, and we have to obey our instructions. Chief. — We hear that there is one who is gone by the back lakes (Mr. Napier), the worst path he could have taken ; why did he go ? ! I I i 48 Reply. — He was sent, and therefore compelled to go. Chief.— It would be thought very hard by our young men, and must be thought hard by you, to Le sent on a journey for purposes which you are not allowed to know. Rfiply. — Our Government has business at Red River, and has sent us as messengers by this route. Our chief will soon come back, and give you all the information you seek. A Brave. — Why did that man send his people through ouf country without asking our leave ? Reply. — He was greatly hurried, and heard that you were scattered, some on the ** war path," others fishing, and others gone to the rice grounds. He did not think there was any chance of finding your chiefs. Chief. — All these paths through which you wish to go are difficult and bad. They arc of no use at all, and we cannot let our people work for white people, or go with you. Reply. — We do not expect them to go for nothing ; we cannot go alone at present, and must rely upon your assistance. Chief. — I do not know what good it will do to us to show you that road. Reply. — It will do you do no harm, and as strangers we cannot go alone. Chief. — The man who sent you, did he think he sent you through his own country P R'pty — ^On our road we met a traveller who had just passed through the lake, he was an officer of the company, and he told us you could not now be found, as you were either on the war path or fishing ; he said that we might see you at Fort Francis, but you had left some days before we arrived here. Chi''f. — ^I don't think you will be able to pass by ihut way, the path is bad. What did the guide receive from you at Fort Francis ? he must give all back, we cannot let our young men go with you to show the path. Your head man has no right or claim to the road, and you must pass by the old way. If you win go, we shall not interfere ; but you will go alone, and find the way for yourselves. Recollect, I have said the path is bad. 49 go. young men, i journey for [ River, and sf will soon ek. through ou* it you were , and others re was any ish to go are 'e cannot let ; we cannot ance. us to show trangers we le sent you 1 just passed any, and he ither on the you at Fort d here, y that way, you at Fort young men no right or ay. If you ne, and find ath is bad. Reply. — We ask you now to send us one of your young men to show us the road ; we shall pay him well, and send back presents to you : what do you ask ? Qhief. — It is hard to deny your request ; but we see how the Indians are treated far away. The white man comes, looks at their flowers, their trees and their rivers ; others soon follow him : the lands of the Indians pass from their hands, and they have a home nowhere. You must go by the way the white man has hitherto gone. I have told you all. Reply. — What reason can we offer to those who have sent us, for your having refused to allow us to travel through your land? Chief. — The reason why we stop you is because we think you do not tell us why you want to go that way, and what you want to do with those paths. You say that all the white men we have seen belong to one party, and yet they go by three dif- ferent roads, why is that ? Do they want to see the Indian's land? Remember, if the white man comes to the Indian's house, he must walk through the door, and not steal in by the window. Tnat way, the old road, is the dor)r, and by that way you must go. You gathered corn in our gardens and put it away, did you never see corn before ? why did you not note it down in your book ? did your people want to see our corn ? would they not be satisfied with your noting it down ? You cannot pass through those paths. (Critjs of No I No! (Ka- ween I Ka-ween I ) from all.) Reply. — We paid you for your corn in tobacco ; we tell you now that we are anxious to go by that Muskeg road to Red River, because we have learned that the path is travelled by the Americans (Long-Knives) ; we want to see if it be true, if they come through this country, and what these white men are doing. Remember, we are your friends, and we shall be glad to be aJ vvays friendly with you. Chief, — Why did you not say that at first ; we know you had good reason for going through those bad paths ? Reply. — We spoke without authority ; we have told you our own opinion, but we were not told to tell you this. ■'i. f t, '■I' * ( 1 50 Chief. — A pity you did not say that at first. A pity you did not say that at first, (repeated). (After some consultation with other chiefs he continued,) We thought there was something, but our own word to-day is spoken, and we cannot change it. All say this, and the Gouncil is at an end. The chief then said to the interpreter, " Let not these men think bad of us for taking away their guides ; let them send us no presents, we do not want them. They have no right to pass that way. We have hearts, and love our lives and our country. If twenty men came, we would not let them pass to-day. We do not want the white man ; when the white man comes, he brings disease and sickness, and our people perish. We do not wish to die ; many white men would bring death to us, and our people would pass away ; we wish to love and hold the land God has given to us and our fathers won. Tell these men this, and the talk is finished.'' A hasty consultation with Mr. Dawson as to what we should do in this dilemma, was abruptly closed by being informed that the Iroquois Pierre was very ill, and at the back of the tent. Without his paddle, without guide, and Mr. Dawson feeling much worse than on the evening previous, we determined at once not to attempt to cross the swamp at the height of land, alone, and decided to go to Bed River by the Rat Portage. We told this to the chief, and asked for assiatance to take the canoe to Bed Biver. He pointed out two young men, who received orders to take us down the Winipeg. One was to return from Bat Portage, the other to go on to Red Biver. We then told the chief that we should send him some presents from Bed Biver, at which he expressed satisfaction, and at our request he suggested tea and tobacco. We told him we should soon come again, and by these paths, and hoped that we should then have no difficulty in pro. curing guides. An old man, not a chief, said, another day it may be different ; we have spoken to-day, and cannot alter a word. It remains for me now to say, that on the next morning both Mr. Dawson and the Iroquois were very ill, and lay quite help- pity you did lultation with IS something, lot change it. lot these men them send us ) right to pass d our country, to-day. We lan comes, he I. We do not to us, and our hold the land bese men this, hat we should informed that p of the tent, awson feeling determined at leight of land, Portage, ice to take the )rders to take Rat Portage, he chief that r, at which he ;ested tea and I, and by these culty in pro. .nother day it lannot alter a morning both lay quite help- 61 less in their canoe. I gave the only medicine accessible, and Mr. Dawson found much relief from mustard emetics. At Rat Portase no medicine could be obtained, and Mr. McKenzie, the gentleman in charge, was absent ; we remained for an hour, and then hurried on to the Mission, where we hoped to overtake Mr. Gladman or Mr. Napier, u^ho were well supplied with the neces- sary medicines. I beg leave to extract the following note from my journal, which will best explain the difficulties of our position. Extracts from Journal, Wednesday, August 26th. Camped on an island about six miles from Garden Island. Pierre complained of much pain : " My meat (flesh) all bad — all great pain." Terrific thunder storm during the night. Mr. Dawson passed a sleepless night. In the morning, when seven miles from our camp, saw numerous lodges. Our guide informed us that the tribe accompanying them were more than twice greater in number than those we had seen yes- terday. Entered at noon a labyrinth of islands. Mr. Dawson commenced vomiting, and we stopped to take dinner. Gave mustard emetic; it relieved him, and felt better- Mr. Dawson and Pierre are lying at the bottom of the canoe, wrapped in blankets, Francois and an Indian paddling. * • * Thursday, 27th. Mr. Dawson passed a sleepless night ; in a high fever, with frequent vomiting of bilious matter ; mustard emetic gave l*im much relief for a time, Pierre, as before, but weaker. * * * * Our route lay through innumerable islands, not marked in any chart in our possession; the invalid still in the same condition. Reached Rat Portage at half-past twelve noon. Finding no medicine or proper food, and hearing that the other canoes started at seven A. M. this morning, and Mr. Mackenzie being absent, we set out from Rat Portage at half-past one P. M. The Indian Guide took us by a short cut which he said was half a day shorter than the Winipeg route. Heavy thunder- storm with hail, at half-past two. Mr. Dawson was wet through, with all bis bedding soaked ; camped to dry his clothes. Both invalids worse, and growing weaker. Neither of them has taken food which remains for a minute on the stomach, since **.-.■,: i"--^'^-i:St,K. 52 we left Garden Island. * * * * August 28th. — Arrived at the Mission at half-past nine P M. Were received with the greatest kindness by the Rev. Mr. McDonald, the missionary of Islington ; gave Mr. Dawson calomel. Saturday. Another sleepless night ; proposed in the morning to start alone with one light canoe, and endeavour to catch those of the main party before us, who had set out from the mission at noon yesterday. Mr. McDonald thought there was no doubt but I should catch them before the}*^ reached Fort Alexander, procure proper med- icine, assistance and food, and return in three or four days. Mr. Dawson however being very ill indeed, urged upon me to stay with him, and I yielded, contrary as I told him, to my own judgment. But I feared with Mr. McDonald, that my leav- ing him, even for three or four days, would seriously increase his illness, and perhaps endanger his life. Monday morning, August 31st. Lambert told me early this morning, that Pierre's body was covered with purple blotches or blisters. Mr. Dawson, who heard the communication, was evidently troubled. Gave Pierre a strong dose of salts, no other medicine which we thought appropriate being available. In the afternoon Mr. Dawson showed symptoms of delirium ; at night gave 6 grains calomel, 15 grains jalap ; during the night delirium increased, and at 3 A. M. (Monday) he was quite delirious, asking repeat" edly about the mission, the Winipeg, what time we would be all ready to start, &c. &c. At four he slept soundly, and woke at seven quite calm and collected. # • # # • We decided then that it would be better for me to start at once for assistance, and dictated the letters — a copy of which I beg to enclose, to Mr. Gladman, and Mr. Wells, his first assistant. I now flnish this narrative to make preparations for an immedi- ate start. J may perhaps mention, that I have just asked Mr. Dawson why he objected to my leaving him on Saturday to obtain assistance. He replied, that he did not expect to live. * • • * It Would ill become mo to conclude without expressing in the warmest manner our deep sense of obligation m to the Rev. Mr. McDonald. The haste with which I am neces- sarily compelled to draw this imperfect narrative to a close, does not allow me to enumerate here the acts of attention, kindness and christian sympathy which that gentleman has showered upon ' -' ; we feel indeed that under these very painful circumstances, he has nobly, both to the letter and the spirit, worked out to the utmo&t of human power the profession of his faith : and had it not been for his exertions and the means at his disposal, it might, humanly speaking, have been my painful duty to have recorded a different close to these brief but serious troubles, in the midst of a barren and desolate waste. I am happy to say too, that Pierre is better, the spots have all Bubsided and he is now moving about. When I arrive at Fort Alexander jv lied River, I shall hasten to submit further intelligence. I have the honor to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, Henry Youle Hind, Oeoiogitt, Red Eiver Expedition, To the Honorable The Provincial Secretary. I' t (Section rtforred to on page 41.) US. SIDE HIGHER _,,,,..- PLATEAU SWAMP 40 LOWER PUATKAU ^^ALL-gVIAL. ,^.^m^m^^ Fort Garry, Red River, Tuesday, 8th September, 1 858. Sir. — I have the honor to enclose a copy of a letter which I liavejuflt sent to the Rev. Mr. McDonald, of Islington Mission, Winipeg River. From it I trust you will learn the nature ot i^l' \]}:W'': ^ i 1 •, ;l 54 the steps I have taken to assist in sending relief to Mr. Dawson, and that they will, so far as they go, meet with your approval I feel conscious that no further efforts on my part, under present circumstances, would have enabled me to extend or increase them. In reviewing report No. 2, which I wrote at Islington Mission, 1 find it conveys a very inadequate idea of the impor- tance of the valley of Rainy River, and that I have not been able to introduce some very interesting facts respecting the islands and coast of the west side of the Lake of the Woods, a region quite out of the ordinary canoe track, and but little known as far as I can ascertain from enquiry here. I have taken copious notes during the whole trip, since leaving Fort Francis, and fihali have great pleasure in communicating what I think will be information of some value, at my earliest leisure moment. From what I have seen of the Red River settlements there is a vast field for inquiry open here, and of a character so surprising and encouraging, and so much opposed to the impressions which generally prevail respecting this country, that I shall have great difficulty in securing all the information I require during the short month which now remains at my disposal. Each succeed- ing hour's experience shows the necessity of relying upon per- sonal observation alone in all that relates to the physical aspect of the country and its immense capabilities. Permit me to offer one illustration. ( was informed that here and there, a mile back from the River, swamps oppose the pro- gress of settlement into the Prairie, and that there was an in- superable objection to their being drained on account of the enormous gullies which a single spring flood would cut from the swamp, through the soft rich prairie soil and its subjacent marl and clay. Along the course of the little ditch first dug, I saw gome of these gullies originating from a ditch two feet deep ; they were thirty feet deep and perhaps a hundred feet across. But while they effectually drain the swamps and create a^J- mirablc pasture fields, they involve the necessity of the con- struction of bridges to cross them. These items of expense the settlement cannot afford to pay, and no other funds are available but those derived from the inhabitants. Hence in order to av(4d ,*1" A5 building a few cheap wooden bridges, the swamps remain un- drained, the pasture limited and exhausted by constant cropping, and the boundaries of the settlement confined. On Thursday, I propose to go across the Prairie to the Prairie Portage, on the Assinniboine, a distance of seventy miles ; where, I am told, but I receive the information with doubt, that I shall find the extremity of an outlying patch of the great lignite bed of the Saskatchawan. This excursion may take five days, and offers many facilities of seeing the Prairie country. I pro- fK)se then to proceed up the Rat River to the boundaries of the limestone, and afterwards up Red River to the boundaries there of the same formation, these being the main points of Geological interest which are at this late season of the year accessible. About the 6th of October I hope to be able to start by way of Pembina to St. Paul's, and by slow travelling acquire materials for a sketch of the country through which we shall pass. I have the honor to be, &c., Henry Youle Hind. To the . 1 fable The xiovincial Secretary. Fort Garry, Tuesday, 8th September, 1858. My dear Sir, — Notwithstanding a head wind on the Winipeg Lake which delayed us several hours, we managed to reach the Lower, or Stone Fort, at 6 p.m., on Saturday last. On enquiring I found that the canoes had started for Fort Garry at about 11 o'clock, four in number. I therefore immediately procured a horse and hastened on to the Upper Fort, arriving there at half- past 9 in the evening ; and having seen Mr. Wells, I learned that Mr. Gladman was visiting his relations at some distance from our camp, about five miles as he supposed. Nothing could be done that night, but early in the morning Mr. Wells procured a horse and went to sec Mr. Gladman who, after hearing the statement of the case, decided that nothing could be done that day (Sun- day), and promised to be in the camp early the next morning. '*- ; » ■ «i^ !•■■ He arrived; at half past 10 on Monday but although every e ffor was made by many attached to the expedition to see him, he could not be found until 2 p.m. All items necessary to send to you and Mr. Dawson had long been ready, but for reetsons which lam not prepared to explain, no canoe was despatched last night, although I did not fail to urge the necessities of the case, and was repeatedly seconded in this endeavor by Messrs. Napier, Wells, Gaudet, and others. This morning there is a prospect of the canoe being despatched. I have seen Archdeacon Cochrane, and he kindly undertook to deliver the letters with which you favored me, to their several destinations. Your Indian boy, who acted as guide, has expressed a wish to remain here until yci; arrive, but I have insisted upon his re- turning with the canoe according to your express desire. Mr. Gladman is to give him a complete suit of clothes for the winter for his services, and I shall leave a little present which you will please give him at your discretion when you come to Fort Garry. I hope that Mr. Dawson is now fast recovering, and I cannot but feel and express the deepest regret that so much unnecessary trouble should have occurred here in despatching a canoe. I feel pursuaded that there did not exist a single satisfactory rea- son for not despatching a canoe on such an errand on Sunday morning. Even if a crew among our men could not be found we should not have had the least difRculty in getting any number of men we wanted at the door of the Roman Catholic Church afler mass ; as it is possible the canoe may soon start it is probable that I shall not have time to write to Mr. Dawson, but if you will kindly show him this hurried letter, he will see that I have done the utmost in my power to obtain for him the assistance he so much requires. The men in the canoe worked very well, and often rose an hour before daylight. 1 almost forgot to say that neither men nor a canoe were to be found at Fort Alexander. Through the kindness of the Chief.IuBtioe of Rupert's Land, Mr. Gaudet will bring with hitn numerous little things for Mr. Dawson, which he will find very acceptable. I hope I shall see you again before 1 leave tho set dement. 'i i 57 Meanwhile accept my warmest thanks for your kindness and sympathy, And believe me to be, Sincerely and gratefully yours, Hy. Hind. The Reverend Robert McDonald, Islington Mission, Winipeg River, Rupert's Land. Islington Mission, August 31st, 1857. Sir, — Professor Hind will explain our reasons for coming this way. The Professor has promised to send a canoe from Fort Alexander, but should he fail in being able to do so, I trust you will lose no time in sending a canoe for me. I have the honor to be, &c., S. J. Dawson. G. Gladman, Esq. IsLiMOTON Mission, August 3lst, 1857. My Dear Wells, — The Professor will explain all our journey- ings to you since we parted. I am very low and very weak, and it may possibly be a fortnight before I am able to do anything. Urge Mr. Gladman, if Mr. Hind does not succeed in finding men at Fort Alexander, to lose no time in sending a canoe for me. I have had a very narrow escape indeed. Send such things as Mr. Hind will name, such as rice, and sugar, and, if you can procure it, a bottle of Port wine, to put in the sago. Survey Reed River as far up as you can. It would be better to do this first, and also the streams running in from that direction. Con- sult Mr. Gladman about it. Yours very sincerely, (Signed,) S. J. Dawson. Mr. Wells. ' / .. 1 1 58 I : i M I t Fort Garry, September 9th, 1857. Sir, — Availing myself of the opportunity of Mr. John Cayley's departure to-morrow for Canada, by way of St. Paul, I have deemed it advisable to inform the Government of the safe ar- rival of my party at Fort Garry on the 5th instant, in company with M r. Dawson's party, under Mr. Wells. As we are still under canvass, and unlikely to get settled for some days to come, I shall not be able to forward the plans, &c., of the routes I have ex- amined as soon as I had anticipated, but I hope to send them by Professor Hind, who purposes leaving for Canada by the 6th. I can, therefore, give only a short account of my proceedings from the date of my last letter from Fort Francis, together with general description of the route. In consequence of my canoe men being discharged at Fort Francis, being engaged only thus far, great difficulty was found in procuring another crew for the remainder of the journey. However, by the 22nd a crew of four men was made up and I then started my canoe with my assistant and baggage, down the Rainy River, the usual route. Immediately afterwards I left in a small canoe with Mr. Gaudet and two men, taking another route, returning to Rainy Lake, and then by series of small lakes and creeks reached the N.E. extremity of the Lake of the Woods, and hav- ing passed through countless channels caused by the numerous Islands in this part of the Lake, I arrived at the Rat Portage on the evening of the 20th, when I met my assistant and Mr. Wells' party who had arrived there that morning. This route is only preferable to that by Rainy River in winter, as it is shorter. I shall, however, forward a plan and detailed account of it here- after. My assistant describes Rainy River as a fine large stream of an average width of 7 chains, and depth 6 feet. There are no Portages in it, and but three small rapids which are easily run, it is very straight throughout its entire length, and the cur- rent, when he passed down, never exceded in any part except at the rapids, which are very short, the rate of two miles an hour. About ten miles from the Fort Francis, a large tributary joins 59 the Rainy River from the East, and five miles further on, another large river flows in from the same direction. The land is from ten to fifteen feet above the water, and in several p'aces seems to be very good, elms and oak appearing here and there. The passage across the Lake of the Woods was happily made by them without much difficulty, the weather fortunately being favorable, but it is generally considered dangerous, as some of the traverses are rather long, and sudden storms are frequent, which renders the passage of them rather hazardous. Mr. Gladman arrived at the Rat Portage the day before us, and stay- ing there a few hours again left us behind. I had j' - ^t difficulty in procuring here a guide and another man absolutely necessary for safely descending Winipeg River, where the rapids are so numerous and dangerous, those men I got at Fort Francis not knowing the river sufficiently well. At Islington Riission it was considered necessary to procure another canoe, as mine and Mr. Dawson's were considerably overloaded. The Rev. Mr. McDonald kindly lent us one, into which some of the baggage and two of the party were put with a crew of four men. The advantage of this arrangement was seen shortly when we had to cross numerous Portages, and descend several rapids, most of them exceedingly dangerous. Winipeg River may be said to be the most difficult and dangerous part of the whole route ; for some distance it has more the character of a chain of large lakes dotted with Islands, and then contracting to a rapid river a few chains in width. We succeeded in reaching Fort Alex- ander on the 1st of September, when we met Mr. Gladman. After waiting there but a few hours we proceeded to cross Lake Winipeg, and after the detention of one day on the Lake, owing to a gale of wind, we arrived finally here on the 5th. On my next return, I will forward the plans and sections of the route, which will clearly explain the various portages and rapids, shewing their respective position and peculiarities. It was our intention, on leaving the Rat Portage, for one party to explore the Pinewa, a branch of the Winipeg, which falls into the head of Lac de Bonnet, but owing to the water in the river being low, and the heavy manner in which our canoes were l'' I ; , -"1 fli II I ;r i I 60 loaded, it was not deemed prudent by the guide to attempt it, I shall be able, however, to procure from Professor Hind, who came by it in a light canoe, correct information as to its genera, character which will enable me to form an opinion as to whether it would be desirable to make a further exploration of it. Owing to the unfortunate illness of Mr. Dawson, and his detention at Islington Mission, I have not as yet been able to decide as to when the examination of Roseau River and Rat River can be made. It is, however, my intention to examine the country between the Red River and f^ac des Bois ; and much valuable information concerning its nature can be pro- cured here from persons who have hunted over it, and are thoroughly acquainted with it. Mr. Gaudet has been despatched t'^ Islington Mission with the necessary medicine and other articles for Mr. Dawson ; and I trust we may have the satisfaction of seeing him again in 10 or 15 days. At Fort Garry we have been very well received by Governor Johnston, and Mr. M^Tavish, the chief factor, and indeed by all the inhabitants whom we have as yet met ; and I have no doubt but that every facility will be afforded us, as far as it is possible, to carry out our explorations and examinations with satisfaction. We are making exertions to procure quarters, and the necessary provisions for the winter : but find it a matter of some difficulty, as most of the available stock has been secured for the troops which are expected here shortly-— still [ have no fear but that we shall be, in every respect, well provided for before the winter sets in. I have the honor to be. Sir, Your obedient servant, W. H. E. Napibr. To the Honorable The Provincial Secretry. 61 St. Paul, Minnesota Territory, 28th October, 1858. Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that I arrived at this place in company with my assistant, Mr. Fleming, and Messrs. Dickenson and Cayley, formerly associated with Mr. Napier's party, after a journey of 40 days from Fort Garry, Red River settlement. I am happy to be able to state that Mr. Dawson arrived at Fort Garry on the evening of the 8th October. I delayed my departure unfil the 9th, in order that I might see him, and thus be able to aflford the testimony of an eye-witness respecting his recovery. I regret, however, to have to say that he has endured much suffering, and is greatly reduced, but with a fair prospect of speedily regaining health and strength. I also visited the Rev. Mr. McDonald, of Islington Mission, Win- ipeg River, who accompanied Mr. Dawson to Fort Garry. From him I learned that some days after my departure for Red River, in search of assistance, Mr. Dawson's illness in- creased ; he became deaf, blind, and senseless ; a looking glass put before the mouth was not dimmed, and all hope of recovery was given up by those around him. Subsequently a change for the better took place, and as a last resource, Mr. McDonald brought an Indian " medicine man," who bore an excellent reputation among his tribe for his skill in the use of herbs, to see him The Indian " medicine man" adminis- tered his specifics, and so far effected a cure, that in a few days Mr. Dawson was able to sit up ; and eventually became sufficiently strong to bear the fatigue of a canoe voyage from Islington Mission to Fort Garry. With care and attention, under the direction of the medical officer in the service of the Hudson's Bay Com|jany, it is to be confidently hoped that he may soon be able to resume his duties. Since the dale of my last report, I have visited, 1st. The Assiniboine Wiver, for a distance of seventy miles in a straight line from Fort Garry. 1 ' , •i* r "t .if- i 1 i M' h'"' -;:> I t ,'S I I'f !i- - 62 2nd. The Reed Grass or Rousseau River, as far as the dead water of that river, at its junction with the swamp leading to Reed Grass Lake. 3rd. Big and little Rat Rivers, and the Reed Grass river, as well as between Rat River and Fort Garry, 4th. The Red River settlement, as far as the Indian Mission north, and Pembina on the 49th parallel south (100 miles.) If the following scheme of a general report on my depart- ment of Red River Expedition meets with your approval, I shall be able to furnish on my return to Toronto the several sections in the order and at the times mentioned below. REPORT, &c. Part I. Topography of the Route. Section 1. Fort William, Lake Superior, to Fort Francis, Rainy Lake. Section 2. Fort Francis, Rainy Lake, to Indian Settlement, Red River, via west side Lake of the Woods. These two sections to be accompanied with a topographical sketch or map of the whole country traversed, including Red River to the 49lh parallel, the Assiniboine River to Prairie Portage, Reed Grass River to the dead water of its feeding and Lake, Little and Big Rat Rivers, some of the ancient beaches of the Lake Winipeg, in the valley of Red River, and the whole of Red River settlement. The foregoing sections and the topographical sketch or map, on a scale of two miles to one inch, can be furnished by the twelfth of December. Section 3. Red River settlement, the Assiniboine River, as far as the Prairie Portage, and its settlement. to II' 63 he dead iding to river, as Mission lies.) depart- )roval, I several J Lake. d River, raphlcal ing Red Prairie ing and beaches and the or map, by the ' as the Section 4. Fort Garry to Pembina, the Reed Grass River, the Little and Big Rat rivers. ; These sections can be furnished by the first of January. Part IL Geology of the Route, Section L Geological sketch of the country between Fort William, Lake Superior and Fort Alexander, at the mouth of the Win- ipeg River. Section 2. Geological sketch of Red River valley, from the 49th Parallel to Lake Winipeg. Section 3. Economic materials met with during the explorations. To be accompanied with a Geological Map of the country tra- versed, on a scale of 10 miles to 1 inch. Also cross sections of the river and swamps at Red River Settlement, and sections of strata on the route. To be furnished by the 20th January, 1858. Part IIL Section L Industrial and social condition of the inhabitants of Red River valley, north of the 49lh parallel, and of the valley of the Assiniboine, as far as the limits of settlements at Prairie Portage, comprising \. Statistics of population. 2. " '* industry. 3. Habits and customs. 4. Religion. 5. Education. 6. Trade and commerce. Section 2. Climate of Red River valley north of 49th Parallel. .",r ,* ■t I Section 3. Application and neglect of resources of Red River valley. To be accompanied with sketches of the principal buildings in the settlement, &c., &c., and to be furnished by January 30th, 1858. f 1 § I ' I Part. IV. A daily journal, containing observations in natural history and meteorology, with notes on the different tribes of Indians seen and visited, together with a record of other subjects of interest receiving attention during the exploration and the homeward route to St. Paul. In writing my journal, I have frequently made memoranda for future study or reference, when within reach of proper sources of information. These may require a longer time than I am at present aware of. And in view of the labor involved in preparing the topographical and geological reports, I beg permission to name four months from the time of my arrival in Toronto, as the limit within which this part of my report will be prepared for your inspection. 1 propose to accompany the journal with sketches of the Hudson's Bay Company's Forts on the route of exploration. The chief waterfalls, outlines of scenery, and sketches of implements of husbandry, &c., &c., used by the people of Red River. I am compelled to remain for two or three days at St. Paul until the arrival of my baggage from Crow Wing, but I hope to be in Toronto on Thursday or Friday next, (the 4th and 5th of November). I have the honor to be Your obedient servant, Henry Youle Hixd, M. A., Geologist and Naturalist Red River Exploring Expedition, The Honorable The Provincial Secretary, Toronto, Canada. , iiy-riii RossiN Moosb; Toronto, Sth December, 1866. Memorancbm in reference to Profewor Hind's remarks, in his letter to the Rev. Robert McDonald, dated Fort Garry, Tuesday, 8th Sept., 1867, which have only now come tindet my notice. On Saturday evening, Sept. 5, as the canoes wefe asicend- ing the Red River, I landed at my daughter's house, which is five or six miles distant from Fort Garry, and remained there for the night. The gentlemen of the expedition party being directed to proceed on with the canoes and encamp near the Fort. On Sunday morning at nearly 11 o'cloci, Mr. Wells, (Mr. Dawsons Chief Assistant,) called on me (he was on horseback) with a note sent by Mr. Dawson, and acquainting me with the Professor's arrival at Fort Garry the pre«ious night. Mr. Wells was immediately directed to procure at the Company's Fort, if to be had^all the items which he named to me as being considered necessary for Mr. Dawson, and o pre- pare a canoe to start as soon as possible with those supplies, intimating a;t the same time my doubts whether the canoe men, just come off a long voyage, could be prevailed on to leave the settlement so soon, particularly on iSunday. I was at the Fort at 10 o'clock on Monday, when I consult- ed Dr. Bunn, the Company's medical officer, who considered it unsafe to send medicines without seeing the patient, and having a better knowledge of the true nature of the case. I then went to the camp, and found that ¥£. Wells, Prof. Hind and Mr. Napier, had one and all declined to assume the responsibility of sending off the canoe. I again directed Mr. Wells to have the canoe prepared, pointed out the men to be sent, and ordered the requisite provisions for them ; but notwithstanding these repeated directions, it was late on Tues- day morning before the canoe, under the conduct of Mr* Gaudet, (another of Mr. Dawson's staff,) was ready, and took his departure from the fort. The detention, as regarded the* M.^ <1;'. 66 men, I found to be caused by their having occasion for shoe- leather and clothing out of the Company's shop, and which they could not obtain elsewhere, particularly on Sunday. The Professor does not say that he considered the crisis of Mr. Dawson's illness to have passed before he left him, although I observe he expresses to Mr. McDonald " a hope that Mr. Dawson is fast recovering." Neither does he say it was expected that Mr. Gaudet would meet Mr. Dawson on his way to the settlement. It is unnecessary to make further remark on this matter ex- cept to say it required no ** effort " to see me as I was at no greater distance than Dr. Bunn's consultation room, within half a minute's walk of the expedition camp, and that I do not clearly see how I could have been " repeatedly urged" upon the necessities of the case by Messrs. Napier, Wells, Gaudet •and others ! if, as the Professor says, I could not be found. Geo. Gladman. RossiN House, Monday, 7th Dec, 1857. Sir, — I beg to return thanks for the perusal of the reports relative to the Red River expeditioni which were kindly placed in my hands on Saturday, and beg further to draw attention to the remarks made by me in the margin. ^ I remain, &c., &c., Geo. GLADMAtr, To Edmund A. Meredith, Esq., Assistant Provincial Secretary West, &c. 67 . f .,f . Port Hope, 7th Dec, 1857. Sir, — I have the success of the scheme for opening out com- munications with the Red River settlement so much at heart, that although I know your time, at this particular juncture, is fully occupied in making arrangements of more immediate importance, I cannot refrdin from addressing you a few words, called for in my opinion by the circumstances in which we, of the Red River expedition, are placed. In the first place, I beg to represent the necessity of sending a trust-worthy messenger to the Red River Settlement as soon as possible, with remittances and with instructions to Messrs. Napier and Dawson for their future guidance. As preparations require to be made during the winter for successfully carrying through the works of the next year on the line of communication, I beg further to say, I am prepared to undertake the task of making the Portage Roads, and improv- ing all the water courses between Lake Superior and Red River, provided I am allowed to select my own staff of working assistants, and that sufficient means are placed at my disposal; also, that I have power and authority, as an agent of Government to treat with the 'udians for the surrender and oc- cupation of such lands as may be needful for the purposes in view, r / . I would suggest that arrangements be immediately made for a supply of boats adapted to the navigation of shallow waters. Such boats to be ready for delivery at Fort William, on Lake Superior, early in May next. That provisions and other supplies for the use of the parties now employed and for those hereafter to be engaged, be prepared during the winter, in packages adapted for the carrying over the portages, and that foremen and men accustomed to road making and buHh work be sought out during the winter, and engaged in the spring for active service. • It is very desirable that all the lands between Fort William and the Mountain Portage should be surveyed and lotted out, and, as an inducement to its being immediately occupied by 68 immigrants, that the system of free grants should be extensively acted upon. The soil un the banks of the river appears to be tolerably fertile, and although wheat has not been raised there, in consequence of all the present cleared lands being too much e>:posed to the fogs of Lake Supeaior, it is scarcely doubted that grain may be cultivated with success on lands but a short dislancce from the lake, when the country is laid ^en. Looking at all the sites north of the frontier tine at Pigeon River, this appears to me the nearest and most eligibto place for forming an extensive settlement, and when such set^ tlement is formed it will aid very much in filling up the whole of the interior country wherever advantageous locations can be found. A monthly mail would be a great boon to the Red River population, and can very easily be carried by canoe from post to post during the summer season. In the winter the carriage of Mails would be difficult and interrupted, except it were undertaken by the oflicers of the Hudson's Bay Company stationed on the north shore of Lake Superior. The expense would not be very heavy, indeed wy impression i^ it would nearly if not entirely be defrayed by the postage on letters and newspapers. I have deferred sending in the Report which I had prepared on the Srd ultimo, immediately after my return to Toronto^ under the expectation of receiving the reports of the gentlemen who nocompanied me on the Expedition. I have now been favored with the perusal of the Reports forwarded by tho.«(e gentlemen to the several Departments, and beg reference more especially to that of Professor Hind, who best describes the general features and products of the country through which we passed. I have the honor to remain, Sir, Your obedient humble servant, * Geo. Gladmait* To (he Honorable, The Provinoial Secretary, Toronto. m the wa , r , ToROiPTO, 3rd November, 1857. , Sib, — On the dth September I had the honor to address you from Fori Garry, Red River Settlement, acquainting you with the progress of the Expedition party under my direction ; our several positions at that time, and my views in regard to oper- ations during the winter season. I delayed niy departure from the Settlement until the 15th September, hoping that Mr. Dawson's health would have been 80 far re-established as to admit of his re-joining us at that date. Unfortunately however, this was not the case, as on the 21st I f >und that gentleman yet confined to his bed, at the Is- lington Mission Station, and entirely unable to discuss with me the atfairs of the expedition. Mr. Gaudet, who had been sent frorn the Red River in a large canoe, with supplies of provisions, and with instructions to remove Mr. Dawson as soon as posiiible within reach of medical assistance at the set tlement, was at the station awaiting his convalescence. AU anxiety concerning Mr. Dawson is now happily removed, as Professor Hind brings information that he (Mr. Dawson) had reached the Settlement, and that there was every prospect of his restoration to perfect health in a short time. I beg to annex copies of the letters addressed by me to Messrs. Xapier and Dawson, before I left the Red River Settle- ment, relative to the affairs of the expedition. On the 27ih September I arrived at Rainy Lake on my return towards Canada. Here I met again with exceedingly contra- dicti>ry reports respecting the chain of rivers and lakes forming the water communication with Lake Superior, on the route fol- lowed by the North West Company of Canada previous to the year 1803. Having passed several times over the Kaministiqnia R(nite, and our party having obtained a knowledge of all the difficulties and obstructions presented on that line, I determined on a personal examination of this '' Old North West Route,'' ia order to arrive at some conclusion that would be more satisfac- torv than any to be deduced from the information I had hitherto obtained. 70 I I OiC 3rd October. 1 found the whole Kne of com- V /pry good im' ^ed, being a succession of small I accor ^ii ^rly > nfjaged an Jiidian guide, and leaving Rainy Lake o s dit SOth September branched off on the Namakun Lake, w/. tue inmt Tvbere the Northern and Southern lines of routes sepa^ ' • 'IL. T)ct iJ the lake Seiganagock, which I reached on the e\v vMij^ municav n i lakes cji. ' -lea '.>; -^ iipJl streRrns and sixteen short portages, all easily impio.r.J, lir.; . licb u ^e aggregate do not occasion much more the . l vo nikg of !tnd carriage. Between tKs vhI ■"^\ -it • lug r;k and the shore of Lake Supe- rior, where I arrived i iie afternoon of the 7th October, we encountered the chief ditiijulties and obstructions that are met with on this route. The height of land, dividing the waters which flow into Lake Superior from those which run towards Lake Winipeg and Hudson's Bay, is short and steep, the smill streams exceedingly shallow, and the seventeen portages over which we passed are long, rugged and hilly, amounting on the whole to about sixteen miles of land carringe. •: . ' In a direct line, the distance from Lake Seiganagock to Lak^ Superior appears by the Map to be about 40 or 45 miles, passing over United States territory. From the same point to the Ka- ministiqnia River the distance is about 60 miles. Here the country is 8o imperfectly known that we cannot form any opin- ion whether a communication is practicable either by water or land, and I regret exceedingly that the season was too far spent to admit of my determining this interesting point. As far as I can learn from the Indians who hunt over that part of the coun- try, there are lakes and rivers which may be made available as channels of communication, and to these it is very desirable we •hould direct our first attention in commencing the work of next •ummcr. In the meanwliile I have instructed my son and as- sistant, Henry Gladman, whom I loft at Fort William for that purpose, to explore during the winter, as far as mny be practic- able, the whole truct of country between the Seiganagock and Di'g Lake. We shall thus be fully prepared, in the month of May next, to commence the active work of opening out thi» ' .0^ n part of the road in the direction that may be deemed most suit- able ; and that work will be vory much facilitated by the pre- vious knowledge of the country which we shall have obtained. The whole difficulty at the eastern end of the line of commu- nication, lies within the compass of a few miles, and in my opinion a choice is to be made between a road of about 18 or 20 miles, (that is to say, from Lake Superior to Dog Lake, and a road to the Sagenagack or Arrow Lake, the length of which is not at present known to us,) and in fact can only be ascer- tained by a careful examination. Having casually heard that a road had been commenced recently, between the shores of Lake Superior and "Sexton," and the head waters of the Pigeon River, I thought it advisable to gain some certain knowledge on this point. I accordingly directed my course thither, and landing at Saxton on the 17th October, found a small party there, clearing land, but there was no appearance of any road making. I am since assured such a work is in contemplation, and will be undertaken next year. The season being very far advanced and the weather becom- ing more and more tempestuous, I proceeded from Saxton to Superior City, and there taking advantage of a propeller bound to Cleveland, I embarked o:i the 23rd October, with the whole of my party, for Detroit, and arrived at Toronto on the morning of the 28th. The detailed reports, plans, and sections to be furnished by the gentlemen who have accompanied me on this expedition, will shew that the whole chain of rivers and lakes between Fort William, on Lake Superior, and Fort Garry, on Red River, fol- lowing the Kaministiquia route as indicated by my letter of instructions, has been as fully surveyed as the season and cir- cumstances permitted. Time did not admit of so complete an examination as we could have wished, nevertheless much infor- mation has been acquired that will be useful in carrying on the operations of next year. Upon reviewing the Kaministiquia route, the impression on my mind is, that to make it available for the purposes of com- mercial communication and ODlonizationi the most feasible plan U^ ■:*' n of operations will be to make a road from the " Current River '* tachod at Fort Francis with instruotion to proceed by the Red River to Fort Garry. The guide whom I had engaged to accom- pany the gentlemen sent on that service, instead of directing the route along the shore of the '* Lake of the Woods " to the entrance of the '^ Red River," as he should have done, led the party to the ^^ Plantation Island," where he well knew there was a large encampment of his own people. Arrived there tha guide Qt once quitted the party. Messrs. Dawson and Hind -U 9* 73 found it impossible to engage an )ther to take his p^ace, and were consequently obliged to relii>quisli the object for which they had been detached. It appears to me that in following oat the pro- posed plan of opening out this roitd of communiention it will be necessary to treat with the Indians for the disposal of that por- tion of their land which lies in the line of route. I do not apprehend there would be any difficulty in m iking an arrange- ment when the objects which the Governmsnt have in view are clearly understood ; but it will be requisite that full explanations be given, and such a treaty made as will prevent all opposition or collision hereafter. That it is in their power to interrupt any chain of communication that may be formed cannot be doubt- ed, and as they have ttl;eady shewn themselves to be exceed- ingly tenacious of their right of soil, I am of opinion our only course will be to make an amicable arrangement with them, by which free commercial intercourse with the Red River set- tlement may be permanently secured. They raise no objection whatever to parties passing by the Winipeg or the Rainy Rivers, these, as themselves say, are open to every one, but the occupation or possessic n of the soil, without previous treaty or agreement, and without any view of establishing a trade with them, is what they are most decidedly opposed to. With reference to the future course of the expedition party which the Government did me the honor to place under my direction, both Mr. Napier and Mr. Dawson having received their instructions, under seal, direct from the Governmental Departments to which tl^ey were respectively considered as attached, and their rep rts having been transmitted in like manner to the several offices for which those instructions were issued, I do not see how I can efficiently direct or control those operations, or how any benefit can accrue to the expedition from my being only nominally at its head. Nevertheless, I feel it incumbent on me to say that some steps require to be imme- diately taken, to meet th) expenses of the eight gentlemen left by me on the Red River Settlement with the view of continuing the exploration during both winter and spring, and of the one gentleman left at Fort William lor a similar object. Contracts .>• 74 and arrangements Avere made by me for the supply of a quantity of provisions sufficient for the winter use of the several par- ties, but a remittance of funds to cover the amount of those expenses is indispensable. I have the honor to remain, Sir, Your obedient humble servant, (Signed,) Geo. Gladman. •.'•/i. Tih .'1 ■, ! . if For Garry, Red River Settlement, September 10th, 1857. Sir, — Being now about to return to Toronto by canoe, I, in accordance with my instructions, beg to direct your attention to the examination of the country that lies between the Red River and the Lake of the Woods, as far south as the British boundary admits. .• - , - . , ; < . I have been informed that there is a line of farm land on whicli a good cart road may be made, and that there is a good water communication for small canoes at a certain season, (between the points I have indicated) but the statements made to me are so conflicting and contradictory that nothing but actual exploration can determine whether these things be so or not. I am persuaded that both yourself and Mr. Dawson will see the importance of determining these points, and that on consultation together, when his health is re-establisheii, you will act with entire unanimity, and carry the exploration to a satisfactory result. On the opening of the navigation in spring, you will be able to continue your surveys eastward towards Rainy Lake. I anticipate you will there find all requisite supplies for after operations about the 25th June or 1st July : but on this point you will most probably receive, in the interim, full instructions from the Canadian Government. Having at length succeeded in renting houses for your accommudation, and in making contracts for the provisions you require until June next, I leave the settlement under the full conviclion that everything will be done by you that is possible, to accomplish the ends the Government had in view in sending out the expedition. Wishing you health aid success, I remain, Sir, Your obdt. humble servant, Geo. Gjladman. W. H. E. Napier, Esq. 4 Fort Garry, Red River Settlement, : 12th September, 1857. Sir, — Since you left here, Mr. ftfcTavish, for reasons which it is not necessary I should mention, considers it would be better that whatever cash I have to leave for the expedition, should be in the hands of yourself or Mr. Dawson. If the money I leave with you should be insufficient to meet your wants before you receive remittances from Canada, Mr. McTavish is kind enough to say he will assist the expedition with funds, as far as lies in his power, until such time as your own shall arrive. This is the only arrangement I can make at the present moment, and will, 1 am persuaded, meet all the requirements of the expedition. The best men of the settlement being absent in the boats on the York factory voyage, I would recommend that none be engaged until they arrive. Wages here, in the winter season, are very moderate, say from £3 sterling per month upwards to £5 sterling. It therefore appears to me, you would do well to be in no haste to engage men, but occupy the present time in delineating the work already done between Fort William and tliis place, and in preparing the reports and plans which it is requisite should be sent to the Government by the hands of Professor Hind. I also recommend that you send a list of all such supplies as you may think will be required to be forwarded from Canada 76 \ , I I to Rainy Lake next spring ; and that you keep regular and accurate accounts of the expenses of the expedition in the settlement. I shall engage a canoe builder to make canoes at Rainy Lake ; in the mean time, I leave you one of the ** north canoes," which we had on the voyage, and a small canoe brought here by Professor Hind. If more are required, you will probably obtain them from the Indians at the Indian settle ment« Mr. John Rowand has engaged to give the expedition the use of four horses as long as may be required. Dogs and appointments for winter travel, can only be ob- tained at a later period in the year. ••' I enclose a copy of the list of provisions, &c., which Mr. McDermot has engaged to furnish the exp dition. This, how- ever, do33 not include what you may require for extra men, or for your voyage to Rainy Lake, in June, such as hams, pork, biscuit, &c. I thirefore recommend that you make an early estimate, and endeavour to have them on hand, so that you may experience no inconvenience for want of supplies in May or June. Provisions of all kinds being at the present moment held back throughout the settlement, in expectation of the arrival of of the troops, allow me to recommend economy in your expenditure. , V , ' I remain. Sir, . .. , Your obdt. servant, Geo. Gladman. W. H. E. Napier, Esq. ; ,/ . . I r- 71 ' [Memorandum for Mr. Henry Gladman at Fort William.] Endeavour to ascertain the precise character of the country between the mouth of the Current River and Dog Portage, and from Point Meuron to the same place. Go over the ground, and see whether a cart road can be made from one point or the other, or from both. Also, the character of the country from Point Meuron (or thereabout) to ** Whitefish Lake," and whether any commu- nication caw be opened so as to fall in upon the old northwest route above the Grand Portage, or beyond the height of land. In the spring, when snow-shoe travel is good, endeavour to ascertain what the track is from Lake Superior to Arrow Lake, and whether a cart road can be made there or not. If Fort William people can be engaged, square wood for repairing the Swampy Portage. If the season permits, clear and widen the Portage road in the Kaministiquia, and enlarge the landing places. The spring of the year will be the best time for this work. More particular instructions will be sent by the earliest mail from Toronto. Fort William, 13th October, 1858. Fort Garrt, Red River Setttembht, December 8ih, 1867. Sfir,-^I have the honor to submit Ihe following report upon the Hudson's Bay canoe route from Fort William, Lake Supe* rior, to the Red River Settlement, together with aceompanying plans and sections. The plans have been projected from track survey, delineating the features of the rivers, lakes, and creeks followed, their relative positions and the obstructions which occnr in each, from which it is hoped a sufficient idea of the route, and it9 suitableness or otherwise for improvement, may be formedi, upon which to base future operatkost m The sections have been plotted from actual levels taken at all the principal breaks, and from careful estimates ma ^c of the rapids and currents, shewing the heights of the diile, "eat waters followed, above the datum of Lake Superior. ^ The roule may be divided into three sections : 1st. From Lake Superior to the entrance of llainy Lake, embracing the Kaministiquia River to the height of land and the chain of lakes and rivers flowing into Rainy Lake. 2nd. The Rainy Lake, Rainy River, and the Lake of the Woods to Rat Portage. 3rd. The Winipeg River, Winipeg Lake, and Red River to Fort Garry at the mouth of the Assiniboine. The Karainstiquia River is the first link in the canoe route between Fort William and the Red River. Rising in the vast region of swamp about the height of land which divides the waters flowing from Hudson's Bay from those tributary to Lake Superior, it has a general downward bearing of south by east, and for a distance of 43 miles from its moulh is exceed- ingly tortuous and broken by numerous falls, rapids, and shal- lows. It empties into the south-west angle of Thunder Bay, with a delta at its mouth, upon the northerly channel of which, and one mile from the lake, is situated Fort William, a post of the Hudson's Bay Company. The mouth of the river is sur- rounded by a narrow bar where only 5 feet of water is found. From Fort William the river is sluggish and meandering, with width of 6 chains, and an average depth of 6 feet for a distance of 12 miles. At this point the rapid water commenc- es, and continues to the foot of the Grand Falls Portage, a distance of 25.5 miles from the mouth. In ascending the river in canoes, these rapids are only overcome by poling, and the depth of water at these points (August 6th) did not exceed 2 feet, with rocky bottom. The first regular portage is made passing the Kakabeka Falls of 119 feet. It is 4 chains in length, rising abruptly from the water to a table land, which continues to the head of the portage. From this point to Little Dog Lake, there are nine- teen falls and rapids. The falls are passed by portages, none f 79 of which, however, exceed 8 chains in length. The rapids are here also ascended by poling the canoes or towing with a line from the shore. The Little Dog Lake at the foot of Great Dog Portage has an elevation of 360.8 feet above Lake Superior in a distance of 44.5 miles by the river. The country between this point and Fort William, to the north of the Kamanistiquia, does not present any formidable obstacles to the construction of a road which, in a tolerably direct line would reduce the distance by water one-tbird, and a great portion of the country in the neighborhood of Fort William is available for settlement. The Great Dog Portage leads from the Little Dog Lake to the Great Dog Lake and is 1 mile and 52 chains in length ; it has an elevation at its summit of 502 feet over the Little Dog. The river connecting these lakes bends away to the south of the portage road, and is one succession of cascades through rocky cliffs, with a total fall of 348 feet. The Great Dog Lake is an extensive sheet of water, 708 feet above Lake Superior, and is followed by the canoe route for 8 miles to the mouth of Dog River. The Dog River has a gen- eral width of 3 chains, and winds sluggishly through a low swampy country timbered with poplar pitch pine and tamarack. For a distance of 25 miles from the lake, the river, upon Au- gust 8th, maintained an average depth of 4 feet water, with mud bottom and banks. A small rapid of 3 feet fall here oc- curs, which is poled up, the baggage being portaged 3 chains. The country becomes then more elevated to the north with a larger growth of timber. At 27 miles from the Dog Lake is the Portage du Jprdain, of 8.60 feet fall, and 6^ chains in length. Above this fall the river resumes its sluggish charac- ter, until left by the canoe route, 30 miles from its mouth, where a small winding creek, a branch of the Dog River, is entered, bearing away to the south-west. The average width of this branch is 10 feet, with a depth of 2 feet ; it is followed for 2 miles, when a small lake is entered, the source of this creek. The shores of the creek and lake are low and marshy. At the western extremity of this small lake, is the Portage de • i 80 L'eau Froide, of 3 chains in length, leading to another small lake or pund at the foot of the Prairie Portage. The Prairie Portage of 2 miles and 5 chains forms the height of land, and is 887 feet above the water of Lake Superior. It is high and level with sandy soil. The timber has all been destroyed by fire, and appears to have been spruce and little pine. A small lake of about ^ of a mile in width forms the western extremity of this portige, and is the highest water level, from which the route now commences to descend in a westerly direction. The Portage du Milieu upon the opposite shore of this lake is 39 chains long : marshy at its approach, it rises in its centre, falling again at its western end, the Lac du Milieu, which is one mile long, and leads to the foot of Great Savanne Por- tage. The shores of this lake are low, timbered with spruce and tamarack. > • The Great Savanne Portage is one mile and 41 chains in length, through a low tamarack swamp. It is considered one of the worst portages on the route. la the days of the North- West Company, when the route was a thoroughfare and the outlet for the fur trade, this portage had been made passable by a pathway of longitudinal timbers ; at present, however, these are in a state of dilapidation, and partially buried in the mire, serving only as stumbling blocks to the voyageurs stag- gering through under a load. There is abundance of timber in the neighborhood, with which at trifling labor or cost a new roadway could be laid, and also sufficient fall to afford drain- age into the Riviere d'Embarras, its western termination. Leaving the Savanne Portage, the canoe route now follows down the Riviere d'Embarras or Savanne River for a distance of 20 miles to its entrance into the Mille Lac or Lake of a Thousand Islands. This river has an average width of S chains, and a depth of 4 feet water, bat is in m my parts almost impassable from the quantity of driftwood which has aocumolated from time to time ; this could, however, I e removed with little diffiouiry, vrbere the river would form a navigable reaeh ia connection 81 ■with the Mille Lacs. The banks of the Rivldre D'Embarras are mu'ldy and low, timbered with pitch pine, spruce, and birch, much of which has, however, suffered from the ravages of fire. From the mouth of Riviere D'Bmbarras, at the Lake of the Thousand Islands, forms a navigable reach of 23 miles by the canoe route to the portage du Baril, where it is left. It is an extensive sheet of water, stretched away to the north some 30 miles to its outlet; its shores are rocky, timbered with pine, spruce, birch, and poplar. The Portage du Baril of 17 chains over a rocky ridge, leads to the Lake du Baril, which is 7 miles in length ; it has a good depth of water, the shores rocky and rolling, timbered with pine and spruce. The Lac du Baril is left by the Brule Portage of 21 chains, which terminates upon the Cannibal Head, a chain of small lakes with short intervening narrows, some of which are shoal. These lakes discharge by a small creek from which the French Portage is made. The creek falls into the Lake Francis, the Western end of French Portage, and at high water is navigable throughout. It is, however, much obstructed by small rapids and^driftwood. The French Portage is one mile and 60 chains in length, over a succession of rocky ridges, with intervening swampy bottoms, and is accounted one of the most difficult portages on the route. Leaving the French Portage, there is a reach of 11 miles to the Portage des Morts, interrupted only by two short narrows where but three feet v/ater is found. The Portage des Moris is 26 chains in length, and is rocky and uneven. Crossing the Dor6 Dalle Lake, the Portage des Deux Rivieres is made, 26 chains in length, and having a fall of 1 17 feet to a creek at its western extremity ; this creek is only qne chain in width, but deep, and leads into the two Sturgeon Lakes, where a navigable reach of 16 miles occurs. Sturgeon River now forms the next link in the route. Imme- diately at its mouth is a rapid of 4 feet fall, passed by a discharge of 11 chains ; a few chains of still water and second rapid, of 621 feet fall, arc passed by a portage of 3 chains. ■ ♦ * ■'I f iinliiai-fMiiiiii 82 Continuing on down the Sturgeon River, 5 small rapids are passed in the next seven miles, having in all a fall of 11 feet. Jauner Rapid, also called Mininis Falls, next calls for a portage, which is five chains in length ; the river now becomes wider, with strong current, for 4^ miles to the Island Portnge of 2 chains, passing a chute of 10 feet. Narrows of 2 chains and 4 feet water occur at the mouth of Sturgeon River, which falls into Pine I^ake, a deep reach of J miles, discharging into the Maoan River. Continuing down the Macan River, the route is next inter- rupted by the Snake Portage, of 5 chains, and a fall of 12 feet \ the river here has a width of 4 chains and a current of 2 miles per hour. Three miles below the Snake Falls is the Crow Portage, of 9 chains, made on an island below which the river is broken by short rapids and shoals, where 2 feet of water only is found. The grand falls of the Macan occur — miles below the Crow portage, and are the largest upon the river, being 10 feet per- pendicular height. The approach to the portage from above is exceedingly dangerous, being made by the immediate head of the fall ; it is chains in length, rocky and uneven. Two miles below the grand fails are the long rapids, a succession of pitches and broken water one mile in length, and having a total fall of 10 feet. These rapids are run by experienced canoe men, but are dangerous at low water ; the shores are low, rocky, and timbered with a small growth of spruce and poplar. The Macan continues about 4 chains in width, and has a good depth of water for two miles to the Nameaukan Rapids, the last on tho river; these rapids are 15 chains in length, with a fall of 7 feet, and are run but considered unsafe except at high water; the shores are rocky but level. The route now follows tho Macan for 2 miles, where tho Nameaukan Lake is entered, skirting along the north shore of which for 0^ miles, wo come to the Portages Nie, two in Nim- sku, avoiding a detour to the South by which the Nameaukan Lake disohnrjes itself in the Rainy Lake. The first portago Die is 6 chainn in length , at the end of which a fall of 8.5 feet 83 to a pond of 10 chains in length, at the end of which the find portage of 11 chains leads to the entrance of the Rainy Lake. The Rainy Lake now affords 35 miles of uninterrupted navi- gation to the mouth of the Rainy River, its outlet ; it is an ex- pansive sheet of water, studded with numerous islands, afford- ing good shelter, and throughout its length there is a good depth of water. Immediately at the mouth of Rainy River is a small rapid which is run by canoes, and three miles further down are the Chaudi^re Falls, of 22 feet, with a portage upon the British side of 8 chains. Opposite these falls and situated upon a high bank, is Fort Francis, a post of the Hudson's Bay Company. From Fort Francis I made an exploration of the northerly route from the North-west angle of the Rainy Lake to the Rat Portage. This is the winter road, and is preferred to the route by the Rainy River, as being more sheltered and free from the long open traverses necessary in crossing to the Rat Portage from the mouth of Rainy River. From Rainy Lake this road follows a chain of small lakes and connecting creeks, with occasional portages, until the north-east corner of the Lake of the Woods is reached where the route continues through the numerous islands on the Rat Portage. The land throughont is rugged^ rocky, and timbered with spruce and birch. A i^ietch of this exploration is shewn on the plan accompanying. The Rainy River is a fine stream, with an average width of 7 chains, affording an unembarrassed navigation fur a distance of 81 miles from Fort Francis, where a small rapid occurs of 2jf feet fall, and 7 miles further down another of 3 feet ; these are the only interruptions to its course for a di^^tance of 73 miles from Fort Francis to the Lake of the Woods. These rapids are caused by a contraction of the banks of the river, and co-ild with little dilliculty be removed. At prcsem they are run by canoes, and have a fair depth of water. 84 I , V * Tlie banks of the Rainy River are about 16 feet above the water, timbered with poi)lar and white birch ; the soil is sandy olay, which is reported to extend back from the river for a dis- tance of 10 miles. The canoe route now continues through the Islands in the Lake of the Woods for a distance, from the mouth of Rainy River to the Rat Portage, of 64 miles. I'here is here a fall of 16 feet where the Lake of the Woods discharges by several channels into the Winipeg River, and a portage is made of 13 chains over a rock, at the foot of which is the Hudson's Bay Company's Post. The Winipeg River from the Rat Portage is ^vide, and bears more the appearance of a lake, being full of islands, but at nine miles it contracts to narrows, where the first rap d, the Dalles of 3 feet fall are run. Ilelow these rapids the river again resumes its lake-like apfearance for 18 miles, to the second rapid of 5.5 feet, which are portaged, the canoes running light. The Yellow Mud Falls of 22 feet is next portaged 5 chains, followed by a heavy pit(5h at its foot of 7 feet, and f of a mile further down in the Hiyer Portage of 10 chains passing a fall of 8 feet. A small rapid next occurs called the Cove, of 4 feet fall, which is run ; and 3 miles lower down is the missionary station, Islington, abdut which 50 acres of land is under cultivation. To this point the shores of the Winipeg are rocky, barren, and covered only with a small growth of pine, spruce and poplar timber. (Continuing down the river from Islington 13 miles, is th^ De L'Isle Rapid, of 3.4 incli fall, with a short portage of 3 chains. The De L'Isle is sometimes run, but is accounted da igerous from the heavy eddies at its foot. To the Jocho Chute (a distance of i2l miles) the river is navigable with a current of variable space ; the Cliute of Jocho is 13 feet, and the portage 5 chains over a bare rock. With the exception of one small rapid of 1 foot, the river continues n distance of 7 miles unbroken water to the head of the 3 Points de Bois fills of 38 feet in IJ miles, passed by a portage. The second portage is made from the immediate head of the ^all, and is exceedingly dangerous to ap[)roach from above. 85 The river continues with an average width of 15 chains for 3.5 miles, when Slave Falls of 19.80 feet are portaged 30 chains. Leaving the foot of the Slave Falls (a reach of 6 miles) brings Uf to the Barri^re Chute of 5 feet, which is portaged 3 chains, below which the current becomes very strong for a distance of 6 miles, where the Otter Falls of 3 feei are run in descending the river. At the foot of the Otter Falls, the Pinewa, a small branch of the Winipeg, leads off to the north into the Lac de Bonnet. This braach is often used at high water in preference to the main river, as it is less obstructed by falls and has fewer por- tages ; but when the water is low it is impassable for large canoes, which continue down the main river, here called la Riviere Blanche. The Sept Portages (3 miles below the mouth of the Pinewa,) form the most dangerous and difficult portion of the Winipeg River. With a total fall of 47.26 feet in a distance of about 2 miles, these portages are only passed with great caution. Owing to carelessness on the part of one of the guides, two canoes of this expedition were in imminent danger of being precipitated over these falls. The river below the Sept Portages widens gradually into the Lac de Bonnets, which forms a navigable reach of llj^ miles to its discharge, where a chute of 7.30 feet, called the 1st Gala de Bonnet, occurs, and is portaged 2 chains over a rock. The 2nd Gala de Bonnets, of 5 feet fall and 4 chains portage next fol- lows ; and three miles further down is the Grand Bonnet, of 34 feet fall, with a land portage of 51 chains. The Petit Roche de Bonnet, of 8.25 feet fall, passed by a portage of 3 chains^ next occurs, 1 mile below the last ; and three miles lower down are the White Mud Falls, of 13 leet, portaged 15 chains. Con- tinuing on for 4.5 miles, we come to the Silver Falls (two in number,) of 21.5 feet, and avoided by a portage of 23 chains. The river has now a strong f^urrent for 4.5 miles to the Pine Falls, the last portage in the river, of 12 chains, with a full of 8.35 feet. Below the Pine Falls the river becomes wider and * . . ,„ ,-,.,^...^.^„.„,.„. — ^,..^^.v.,.^. ^ ^.^.,..- ^ ^ . ^ ^ , 86 a moderate current to Fort Alexander, 5 miles below the Falls, where the current ceases : two miles below Fort Alexander the river enters the Lake. The portages upon the Winipeg are all well cut out, being used regularly by the Hudson's Bay Company in bringing up their boats from York Factory with the supplies for their posts upon Lac la Pluie, Lac de Poisson Blanc, and the Rat Portage, but many of them are extremely dangerous to approach. The boats used throughout this part of ihe country by the Company are 80 feet long, with a light draft of water, and particularly adapted to the broken navigation of these waters, carrying loads of from 2^ to 5 tons. ') he land upon the banks of the Winipeg gradually improves aftt we leave the Silver Falls, and in the neighl)ourhood of Fort Alexander, about the mouth of the river, the soil appears of sy client quality. (> •astiiig along the south shore ot Lake Winipeg, the canoe lout'? enters the mouth of the Red River through an immense marsh, the river continues without any perceptible current, for 19 miles, to the stone fort or lower Fort Garry ; and 4 miles above the fort are the Grand Rapids, of about 1 foot fall and 2 feet water : 22 miles from the stone fort is upper Fort Garry, situated at the confluence of the Assiniboine and Red Rivers. The total distance from Lake Superior to Fort Garry, by the canoe route, I estimate at 647 miles, viz : From Superior to the entrance to Rainy Lake .... 835 East end of Rainy Lake to the Rat Portage 176 Rat Portage to Fort Garry 236 . 647 From the foregoing, it will be perceived that the main ditfi- cultics are encountered , jn that portion of the route between Lake Superior and the Rainy Lake. The formidable ascent from Lake Superior to the Dog Lake, by the Kaministiquia, and the broken character of the country about the height of land, points to the necessity of adopt ingr a communication by road, the most favorable portion for which num( Fr( rect 11 milesl ous AH a rai| there! strucj gagecl opon[ necej 87 remains to be determined by further exploration. Many of the waters followed by the oaiioe route from the height of land to Rainy Lake (such as the Milie Lacs, ttie Cannibal Head, 2 Stur* geon, and Pine Lakes) afford long reai^hes of navigation in the line of direction required, but their connecting streams are for the most part tortuous, and impeded by rapids and shoals. To determine the most eligible line of communication through this section, a thorough examination of the country between Fort William and the Rainy Lake would be requisite both by the north and South of the Canoe Route. No reliable information could be obtained as to the nature of the adjoining country, as little is known of it ; the route itself is seldom traversed as is evinced from the fact that the portages are for the most part completely groWn up with brushwood and scarcely traceable. The Rainy Lake, from its eastern extremity to its discharge by the Rainy River, forms an interrupted reach of deep navigation. In the Rainy River but one break may be said to occur, viz., the Chaudiere Falls, near Fort Francis. The small rapids occurring below are merely swift runs below caused by the contraction of the banks, and as both have a good depth of water they present no impediment to the navigation. The Lake of the Woods is navigable in all directions, and the numerous Islands form good shelter for vessels. From the north west corner of the Lake of the Woods, a di- rect line cross the country to Fort Garry is estimated at 116 miles ; this would avoid the long detour by tlw rapid and danger- ous Winipeg River. Although little is known of the nature of this country beyond a range of some 40 miles eastward from the Red River, still there is every reason to expect that a direct and easily con- structed road can be formed through. A party is at present en- gaged in exploring a line through from Fort Garry, and further operations are to be carried out in that direction, as soon as the necessary equipment can be procured. -'^■^i'rrifli'' i^iiimi' r" •''-}^-"''-'^'-^ &itAa(;^«iLu,A»~< 88 Leaving the distance from Lake Superior to Rainy Lake as estimated by the Canoe Boute, the through distance will now ap- pear as follows : Lake Superior to Rainy Lake, 235 miles. Rainy Lake to north west comer of Lake of the Woods, 161 " Road from north west corner of Lake of of the Woods, to Red River, 116 " Making the total distance, 502 No examination of Pigeon River was possible last season, whether, therefore, attention is to be directed to that route in the spring or to the country between Rainy Lake and Fort William remains to be determined by further instructions. Respectfully submitted. I have the honor to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) W. H. E. Napier. TABLE BHSWIBa THB HEIGHTS AND DISTANCES OV THB DIV9KBEVT BBEAEB WHICH OCCUB IK IHB HUDSON'S BAY CANOE ROUTR 90 I ii I .> C3 Q ^ cq > " r^-^^ ^" ^ o o o op^ 5 - - s -S >^ c U >-i •'H .s c *j ,js c3 ^o 8 ic o a ■« S « CM A -w 2 »r« ■^ s.g ^»l 4-> ''J " cJ C Wr-^ e3 ?J .s « U e k< c S o « .2 -C C u o *^1 • be Q> o O > ■4-1 42 "^ '5 .m ^o E sbew Canoe above E CO M g to g 11 |5 S s I •3 p. 8 B •e3 S o •i t: o I 1^ I 1 1^ .A II O e9 Is •I a §£ c8 tp II a « In '^ >^ a .g. 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Siit«— As such a length of time has elapsed since the date of my last report, I beg to state, in explanation, that I was detained for some weeks, at the Winipeg River, by illness, having caught a fever which had been prevalent among the canoe men for some time previous, and that since I came here, there has been no suitable opportunity by which a report, with the necessary plans, could have been sent to Canada. I have now the honor to report that the party under my di- rections are engaged in exploring the country between this place and the Lake of the Woods ; but before referring more par- ticularly to their operations, I would respectfully submit to your notice a brief report on the country through which we have passed, describing the route as it now is, and explaining the manner in which, I think, the communication between lied River and Lake Superior could be most effectually and economi- cally opened up. We came by the usual canoe route from Fort William, follow- ing the Kaministiquia, the Rainy, and the Winipeg rivers. The principal difficulties on this route are to be met with, in the first place, on the Kaministiquia River, between Lake Su- perior and Dog Lake ; in the next, between the Lake of a Thou- sand Lakes (Lac de Milles Lacs), and Rainy Lake, and, again, between the Lake of the Woods and Lake Winipeg. The Kaministiquia for ten or twelve miles upwards from Lake Superior, has a smooth course ; rapids then occur in close suc- cession, for ten or twelve miles further to the Grand Falls, but canoes can be either towed or poled up these with tolerable fa- cility. Within the next ten miles the river makes a descent of about three hundred feet, forming many serious obstructions to the navigation, with but short intervals of quiet water between them. On this portion of the route there are numerous portages, half portages, and rapids which render the ascent of canoes ex- tremely tedious and difficult. After this there is a short reach G 98 of quiet water to the Great Dog Portage. There the river makes a descent of three hundred and forty-seven feet, in the short distance of a mile and seventy-three chains. This is the steepest portage on the route ; the summit of the ridge over which it passes being five hundred feet above the level of the water at the lower end. Arrived at Dog Lake, the distance from Lake Superior, by the windings of the Kaministiquia, is about forty-six miles, while in a direct line from Thunder Bay, on that lake, it is only about twenty-four miles. It will at once occur that the rough and rocky Kaministiquia would be best avoided by making a road direct from Thunder Bay to Dog Lake, which would then be within half-a-days' drive of Lake Superior, instead of its taking nearly five days to reach it, as it did us by the Kaministiquia, although we were tolerably well manned and but lightly loaded. Through Dog Lake the water is deep, and from thence to Jourdain's Rapid, a distance of about twenty-five miles, Dog River winds through a marsh, on either side of which the land rises to a considerable elevation. In this distance only one little rapid occurs, about three miles below Jourdain's, where there is a fall of three feet six inches. The fall at Jourdain's is eight feet six inches. Here the route diverges from Dog River, and for two miles follows a small brook, which is so narrow that the willows which fringe the margin on either side almost meet over it. Above this there are three small ponds, which, taken together, are scarcely a mile in length. The last of these ponds is called *' Cold Water Lake," and it has usually been regarded as the source of the St. Lawrence. The rise from Dog Lake to Cold Water Lake, I estimate at about eighteen feet. A dam, therefore, of sufEcient height, thrown across the outlet of Dog Lake, would have the effect of converting the marsh, through which, as just explained, Dog River winds, into a lake, and thus rendering the navigation easy between the road which should cross from Thunder Bay and the Prairie Portage. Nor would the dam have the effect of flooding a great extent of country, for the lands about Dog aocoii be ml direcl the A 99 Lake are high, as they likewise are on either side of the mstfsh just referred to. Between Cold Water Lake and the Savanne River, there are three portages, namely : the Prairie Portage, which crosses the dividing ridge between Cold Water Lake and the waters which flow towards the Winipeg; the Middle Portage, separated from the former only by a pond ; and the Savanne Portage, about a mile from the Middle Portage. The entire distance from Cold Water Lake to the Savanne River being about five miles. The country here is densely wooded, and the ground is in every respect favorable for a road. The Savanne Por- tage does not pass through a morass as is usually supposed, but through an ordinary swamp, with about two feet of black earth over a bottom of hard clay, and having a fall of thirty- one feet eight inches in the distance of a mile and a half. From the Savanne Portage, by the present route, there is a reach of forty-four miles, interrupted only by a little flood-wood in the Savanne River; but if the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, and its discharge, could be followed to the first rapids, there would then be a navigable reach of about 74 miles in a direct line, or 84 miles by the windings of the river and lake. The canoe route, however, diverges from the Lake of a Thousand Lakes at Baril Portage, and thence follows a chain of small lakes to the Maligne, or Nameaukan River, which flows into Lac La Croix, which again empties itself into Rainy Lake. Between these lakes the portages are long and difficu'i , and in the Nameaukan River there are many rapids and fall«. Re- turning again to the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, the river which flows from it, according to the information we have from the Indians, discharges itself into the north-easterly arm of Rainy Lake, as shewn on the accompanying plans. The distance between the two lakes is only about 60 miles in a direct line, but the river has never been followed as the canoe route, on account of the length of some of the portages. If a road eould be made past the impediments, however, it would be the most direct route to Rainy Lake, and advantage would be taken of the long navigable reach in the Lake of a Thousand Lakea. 100 The exploration of the stream which flows from this lake, as I shall presently explain, is a part of the work which we have in oontemplation for the present winter. '■ = Through Rainy Lake, and from thence by Rainy River and the Lake of the Woods to Rat Portage, in a distance of 164 miles, there is no impediment to the navigation except at Fort Francis, where a short portage has to be made past the Chau- diere Falls, where there is a descent of twenty-two feet in a distance of seven chains. From the Lake of the Woods to Lake Winipeg, the distance, according to our estimate, is over 160 miles by the windings of the river, and the difference of level about 369 feet. The Winipeg is a river of immense volume, not much inferior in size, I should say, to the Ottawa, and the approach to the portages, and whirlpools, and eddies below them, are, in some cases, not unattended with danger. In this long distance, however, there are many smooth reaches, varying from four to twenty-five miles in length, as will be seen jon reference to the accompanying table of levels and distances. From the mouth of the Winipeg to the mouth of Red River, the distance, through Lake Winipeg, is about forty-five miles, and fi-om thence to Fort Garry, at the mouth of the Assiniboine, about thirly-six miles. By this circuitous route, the total dis- tance from the Lake of the Woods to Fort Garry is not less than 240 miles, while in a direct line from Fort Garry to Lac Platte, from which place to the Lake of the Woods, if I am correctly informed, there is no impediment, it is only 96 miles. A land road, therefore, over this distance, would be a great improve- ment on the present route, inasmuch as the dangerous naviga- tion of Lake Winipeg, and the numerous portages and rapids on the Winipeg River would be avoided, and the distance shortened by at least 140 miles; and although the distance would still be great for a land rqad, it must not be lost sight of that the means of transport are to be had here in abundance, the people of this settlement esteem it but a light thing to travel immense distances over the prairies in carts in search of bufialo ; and in summer they go in the same way to St. Pauls, distant from this place, as the road winds, over 600 miles. This is an Of mi 101 important consideration, in estimating the advantage of a road from Fort Garry to the Lake of the Woods. The length of land and water carriage from Lake Superior, by the route which I have thus imperfectly sketched out, would be nearly as follows : — From Lake Superior to Dog Lake, allowing for curves, say — land carriage 25 miles Through Dog Lake and from thence to Cold Water Lake, — supposing the navigation to be rendered practicable by a dam thrown across the outlet of Dog Lake — water carriage 85 miles From Cold Water Lake, over the Prairie, and past the Middle and Savanne Portages, to the Savanne River — land carriage 5 miles From the Savanne Portage, by the river of the same name, and through the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, to the rapids below its western extremity — ^water carriage 84 miles From these rapids to Rainy Lake the distance is about sixty miles, but this part of the route is not yet explored ; however, from the information we had from the Indians, it would be safe to allow two-thirds of the distance to be navigable, say, therefore — land carriage 20 miles and — water carriage , •• 40 *^ Through Rainy Lake, by the river of that name, and the Lake of the Woods, to the head of Lac Platte, interrupted only by the falls at Fort Francis, navi- gable for 160 miles From Lac Platte to Fort Garry, allowing for curves, say — ^land carriage 100 '* ■ ' ' ' ■ Total distance.... 469 miles Of which 150 miles would be by land, and the remaining 819 miles by water ; — the distance by the present route is not less than 635 miles, so that in this respect there would be a great saving. r ' HMM i02 Betnrning again to Lake Superior, atid regarding the Kami- nistiquia apart from the numerous falls and rapids which em- barrass its course, the water at its mouth is sashallow^ as not to admit the approach of vessels drawing over three feet, while in Thunder Bay, the water is of sufficient depth, and where, more- over, it is said^ there is an excellent harbour sheltered by an island. This point) hoyrever* can be det^mij^ed on reference to Captain Bayfield's charts, which I have not wkh me. If I am correct in supposing that the depth is sufficient, the advantage of having the teroiinus o£ the road where vessels of all skes wot^ approach, it, and lie in safety, taken In connection with the shorter diiManee, will be a powerful argument in &vor oif having the road to cross from Thunder Bay, instead of following the more circuituous route of the Kaministiquia. I shall now, for a moment, suppose the communication opened as proposed, and that merchandize is about to be sent through from Lake Superior to the Red River Settlement. In the first place, it would be necessary for those engaging in the forwarding business to have a dep6t at the terminus of the road in Thunder Bay, and to maintain there the horses, oxen, and outfit necessary for the land transport. A like outfit would be required aft the Prairie Carrying Place, and at the cairying place or places which it might be necessary to have between the Lake of a Thousand Lakes and Rainy Lake,-~-the number of horses and oxen at the respective stations being of course proportioned to the length of the road. The next carrying place, at the Falls at Fort Francis, has been already alluded to as the only break in a reach otherwise navigable of 160 miles. If aeonsiderable trade were established, it would, no doubt, be found advantageous to construct locks at this falls, but until such is the case, the portage being only 150 yards in length, over even ground, the present mode of transport can involve no great difficulty. For the next, and last carrying place, from the Lake of the Woods to Red River, no provision would have to be made^ inasmuch as it would have its terminus, as already stated, where 1Q3 the means of transport are to be had in abundance, and where, moreover, an active and vigorous population are seeking an outlet for their produce, and a means of communication with the rest of the world. There are merchants now in this settle- ment who keep boats and contract with the JEEudson's Bay Com- pany for the conveyance of articles from York Factory, and I have no doubt that, were the route opened, they would be equally ready to contract with the Canadian merchants for the transport of their goods from Lake Superior. At all events, they might easily bring them from the head of Bainy Lake, provided, as they are, with the horses and carriages necessary for the land transport, and with boats for the water carriage. The terminus of the road on Lake Superior being accessible from every port in Canada, it would not be difficult to maintain horses and oxen there, neither would it at Prairie Portage, inas- much as, in the first place, it is only thirty-five miles from the road which should reach Dog Lake, and, in the next, as the land carriage would be but short, but few would be required. It will at once suggest itself, however, that at the carrying place or places between the Lake of a Thousand Lakes and Bainy Lake, the situation being remote from the resources available at either end of the route, . it would not be so easy to provide forage for cattle, but this difficulty would not be so formidable as it may appear at first. Rainy Lake is not so far from Lake Superior,~there would be navigable water with only one break for nearly two-thirds of the distance, and all that would be required would be an occasional boat load of oats, the country would afford good pasturage, and wild hay could be had in abundance. The next point to be considered is the sort of vessels that could be most advantageously used in the navigable reaches. — Boats such as the Hudson Bay Company have for the transport of article 9 from York Factory to the interior of the Continent, would, perhaps, be the best, inasmuch as they are so light that they can be easily drawn over a portage, and of such capacity that they carry about four tons, while the cost of their construc- tion is only about £2S or £30. In the long, navigable reaches, I 104 larger boats might, no doubt, be used with advantage, and in the transport of merchandize, a great saving would be effected by having a relay of them at every carrying place, as the Hud- son's Bay Company have at the Methy Portage on the route to the McKenzie River. Having thus explained the manner in which, I conceive, the communication could be most advantageously opened up, it is but proper that I should endeavor to convey some idea of the cost of the undertaking; but, until further exploration takes place, any estimate that can be made, must be regarded as the merest approximation. The country from the Lake of a Thousand Lakes to Rainy Lake, is but little known. The present route between these Lakes is objectionable on account of the fre- quency of the portages, and the shortness of the navigable reaches ; rather than follow it, it would be better to have a land road, say sixty miles in length, all the way through, but this would not be necessary, for, according to the information which we have, the discharge of the Lake of a Thousand Lakes is navigable throughout the greater part of its course, but the precise extent to which it is so can only be deter- mined on further exploration. There remains also to be considered the route from Pigeon Bay, which has not yet at all been explored, with a view of ascertaining its fitness for a line of communication. It has, however, been very accurately surveyed by the Boundary Commissioners, and on reference to Mr. Thompson's map, it will be seen that it has the objection of frequent portages, with but short navigable reaches ; all the way from Lake Superior to Rainy Lake, there is no such unbroken reach as that through the Savanne River and the Lake of a Thousand Lakes. It has, moreover, the disadvan- tage of being on the United States frontier, and having many of the portages on the United States territory. Apart from this, however, until it is explored, it would be premature to offer any positive opinion regarding it. But to return to the question of cost, in reference to the route which I have ventured to propose, and which, I think, from what is yet known of the country, will be the one eventually adopted, and 105 dbe iut to ichi Is yet Land to begin with the line which we are now exploring, to the Lake of the Woods, to which place a road will be required, whatever route may be ultimately selected from Rainy Lake to Lake Superior. If the ground should not prove more diffi- cult than we have found it so far, and the party is now half way through, a good road could be made at an outlay of £225 per mile, that is, an earth road, about 24 feet in width, well grubbed, thoroughly drained and properly rounded, with log bridges over the brooks. Should it occur, however, that large streams are to be crossed, — and we only hear of one, the Broken Head River, — an additional estimate would have to be made for bridges. From Rainy Lake to the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, the country, so far as we could observe it, or ascertain its character, is favorable for a road, it is neither very swampy nor very hilly, and I think that the same estimate of £325 per mile would be ample for the extent of land road that might be necessary. From the Savanne River across the height of land to Cold Water Lake, a distance of five miles, a like sum per mile would be sufficient. From Dog Lake to Thunder Bay, the country is hilly, but not more so, than some of the districts through which a road has been made, within the last few years in Lower Canada. Here, however, a large allowance would have to be made, inasmuch as a considerable amount of grad- ing would likely be necessary. I should, therefore, say, for this part of the route, £400 per mile. The stream which rises from Dog Lake being but small, a dam of sufficient height to flood the narrow marsh through which Dog River winds, to a navigable depth, might be con- structed at an outlay of, at most, £2,000. According to this estimate, which, however, is made from very imperfect data, the total sum required to open the route as proposed would be nearly as follows : One hundred miles of land road from Red River Settlement to Lac Platte, between which and the Lake of the Woods there is supposed to be no impediment, at £225 per mile, would amount to 92500 -I.I i-i^imms^mmmM IO16 Twenty miles of land road, allow- > I,, ..; . i ing that jso much would be required, •■ uj between Rainy Lake and the Lake of , , . . a Thousand Lakes, at £225 per mile, : o; would amount to 4500 • ; Five miles across the height of land from the Savanne River to Cold Water Lake, at say ^225 per mile 1125 ^8126 Twenty-eight miles from Dog Lake to Thunder Bay, the country being i hilly, allow say £400 per mile, which would amount to .....11200 To build a dam across the outlet of Dog Lake, say 2000 Q To clear away the flood wood in the Savanne River, and cut down the overhanging trees, say 250 Add, for the bridging of consider- able streams throughout the line, say 2500 44075 Allow to complete the surveys and to have the line thoroughly located in the most advantageous ground 7500 Total, £51575 This is a large sum of money, but the advantagei which the Province would derive from opening the commu- nication, would soon afford an ample compensation for the outlay ; it requires no argument to prove this, when it is considered with what vast i^egions it would be the means of establishing an intercourse^ what a field for colonization it would open up, and what a trade it would in the course of a few years pour through Canada. It has been urged that, as this was once the route of the great Canadian North West Company to their trading estab- Usbments in Uie ioteripr 0/ the Cpi|tip^pt, a^d \\\B,i as it wap • ' 'I I 'I ages Immu- the it is .ns of oa it rse of m then an highway of a great traffic, all that is required now is to put the carrying laces in the same order as they were in at that time. Bii* da is a mistake ; the route vras not suited then, any more than it is now, for the purposes of a general commerce. Heavy articles could not be transported over it, and the enormous profits of the fur trade alone enabled the Company to sustain the cost of the conveyance of light ones. On the other hand it would be easy to suggest a mode of open- ing the communication which, could it be carried out, would be more perfect than that which I have proposed, although not so economical. Thus, a system of canals, or railroads, all the way through, may appear at first sight to be a feasible project ; but it must be borne in mind, that the country between Lake Superior and Red River, although well adapted for settlement throughout the greater part of its extent, is as yet but a wilder- ness, and until settlement has advanced, and emigration taken this direction, to the vast and fertile prairies of the West, I conceive that it would be premature to entertain such schemes. As the adaptation of the country on this route, for settlement, is a very important point to be considered in connection with opening the communication, I trust I shall not be considered tedious, if I endeavor to convey as clear an idea on this head as I possibly can. To begin at Lake Superior, the lower part of the valley of the Kaministiquia, that is, from Fort William up- wards to the Grand Falls, is, unquestionably, well adapted for settlement. The country is comparatively level, and to judge from the growth of wood and the luxuriance of the vegetation when we passed, the soil must be good. There is already an Indian settlement at a bend of the river a short distance from Fort William. Here the Rev. Mr. Chon6 has established a mission and built a commodious* church. This gentleman has spent many years in the country, and from him we obtained much valuable iuformation in regard to the climate and soil. According to his observations, the Kaministiquia never freeses over sooner than the Srd, nor later than the 18th of November, and seldom breaks up earlier than the 28rd of April. The soil, where the Indians are settled, he describes as not I i * ^vf"*"^:'!^*^'.-?'-w*!~»^^n3!!!5!!! 108 being very good^ on account of its being too low, but further up the river he said the land was better, and well adapted for the growth of cereals. From the Kakabeka, or Grand Falls, up- wards to Dog Lake, the river is very rough, aud its shores, in general, broken and rugged ; although the soil here is not well adapted for settlement, large quantities of white pine are to be seen occasionally, which, sooner or later, must become a valuable article of commerce ; and those who settled on the river lower down, would have the prospect of profitable employment in pre- paring it for the market during the winter months, when their farms demand less of attention. About Thunder Bay, I am inclined to think a settlement could be formed ; and from thence by the road which should cross to Dog Lake, if, on exploration, the land should prove suitable, I do not think the climate would be found unfavorable. About Dog Lake, and from thence westward, for more than a hundred miles, to the lower extremity of the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, the country is at a considerable elevation, and the climate must be rather cold. The heights of this part of the route, allowing Lake Superior to be 641 feet above the sea level, are as follows : ' . ... 1 Dog Lake above Lake Superior, 704 feet ; above the sea, 1,345 feet. Pond, at west end of Prairie Portage, 874 feet ; above the sea, 1,520 feet. Lake of a Thousand Lakes above Lake Superior, 823 feet; above the sea, 1,464 feet. In this high region the winters must be rather severe, and yet the growth of timber would not indicate a very cold climate, while the soil, more especially about the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, is apparently of good quality. At the carrying places, settlers would no doubt find it their interest to establish themselves, but it is questionable if many would remain on the most exposed part of a route which led to more favored localities. Between the Lake of a Thousand Lakes and Rainy Lake, the country appears to be greatly cut up with small lakes, indeed, so much is this the case, that it would be difficult to say, whether it would be better described, as laud intersected by numerous lakes, or as one great lake, with ridges of land running through 109 sea, feet ; above this st the while kes, is ettlers s, but it. On descending towards Rainy Lake, however, there is a very perceptible and evident change in the climate, the maple, elm and oak begin to appear, the vegetation becomes more rank and luxuriant, and although the country is broken, there are many fine situations, where settlers might establish themselves with advantage ; and there are those who would find a great in- ducement to do so, in the fact that the country abounds in game, which is but little hunted, and the lakes in fish, of the finest description. Rainy Lake is so full of islands, and there are so many deep bays and indentures on the Canadian side, that it is difficult, in passing through it by the canoe route, to obtain a view of the main land. From all we can learn, however, there can be no doubt that there are many places favorable for settle- ment. This lake is on a lower level, by 404 feet, than the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, which partly accounts for the remarkable difference which evidently exists in the climate of the two. Another reason may be found in the fact, that Rainy Lake lies in a sheltered valley, with a broad ext&nt of high land to the north about the lake, and at many places before reaching it, there are extensive forests of pine, which, considering the vast extent of unwooded prairie country to the west, must, at some period, become the staple of considerable commerce. At Fort Francis, two miles below Rainy Lake, the Hudson's Bay Company have a farm, where we saw wheat and potatoes growing to perfection. Mr. Pether, the gentleman in charge of the establishment, informed us that, in regard to climate, he con- sidered the country much the same as Montreal— of which place I understood him to say he wka a native — only that he believed the winter at Fort Francis to be a little colder. Rainy River, which forms here the boundary between Canada and the United States, is a magnificent stream, varying from 250 yards to a quarter of a mile in width, and flowing with a winding course through a valley of deep alluvial soil. The banks rise from to the height of 80 to 40 feet, with a gentle slope to the river, while back of that the country is apparently level. The prevailing growth of wood is poplar, as in the rich alluvial ^.".■rirggas ?:i«i><^>gr= 110 soil at Red River, but the balm of gilead tree is abundant, and elrti, in many places, line the margin of the stream. As this is the finest country for settlement on the route, I shall here, with your permission, transcribe an extract from my journal, in which I have described it more at length : , . - vr. ; " 23rd August, 1857. — Start at daybreak, and continue our course down Rainy River. There is no change to note in the appearance of the country, the broad river glides on between banks which, on either side are clothed with forests of the most luxuriant green, broken only, as yesterday, by an occasional little Indian clearing, of which the artichoke and wild oats have taken undisputed possession. About 8, A. M., we run a little apid, on the north side of which there is an extensive old clear- ing, with two mounds like little pyramids, evidently raised at some period by the hand of man. We ascend one of these, which may be about 40 feet in height, with a breadth of 100 feet at the base. It is covered with a rank growth of weeds and wild oats, and afking the j^ndian guide for what purpose such mounds had been raised, he replied that long ago a hostile tribe had penetrated into the country, and that the mounds were erected as earth houses (they go by that name in Indian), where the warriors of this tribe had sheltered their women and children. It is probable that they may have been erected as works of de fence, for they overlook the river at a narrow point, where there is a rapid. It is possible, also, that they may be the burying- places of past generations of Indians, whose history has been for- gotten by their descendants. On landing to dine to-day, I went a few miles into the woods, and found the soil of the richest description, growing poplar and balm of gilead trees of a very large size. We camp in the evening on a sandy point, the first we have seen growing red pine. The distance we have come to-day cannot be more than 40 miles ; such an extent of rich land without a break, or a country so well adapted for settlement, I have seldom seen. Rainy River does not seem subject to great floods ; the trees on the bank grow within a few feet of the water as it now Is ; four feet over the present level, I should think he greatest height to which it ever attains. It is said, however. !i 111 that it is sometimes as much as three feet lower, so that there may be a difference of six or seven feet between extreme low and high water. <* 24th August, 1857.— Start at 20 minutes to 5, A. M., and breakfast late at the entrance of the Lake of the Woods ; then set out on the Grande Traverse — find the lake covered with a sort of green scum or vegetable substance, which thickens as we proceed ; at four miles from shore, try the temperature of water six inches below the surface, and find it to be 77^ Fahrenheit ; also measure the depth, which we find to be 35 feet ; at 10 miles from shore, we sink the thermometer two feet below the surface, and find the temperature to be 71^ Fahren- heit, while the depth at the same distance is 36 feet with a muddy bottom ; at half-past 4, P. M., we reach a small island, whtre we dine, having made the Grande Traverse in four hours and forty minutes ; there was not a breath of air as we crossed, and the cloudless sun beat down on the tepid water with great intensity. Notwithstanding the motion occasioned by the pad- dling, the thermometer in my canoe, and being in the sun, rose to 120^. After dinner we proceed on our course to Garden Island, now in sight. Clusters of beautiful islands appear to our right, some of which seem to be fertile, while others, on the contrary, are rocky and sandy, growing white pine, cypress and poplar. In the evening, we camped on Garden Island, where we saw considerable fields of Indian corn, and where the Indians informed us that they had cultivated the land from time imme- morial, and that they had never once known an instance of their crops being injured by frost. This should be rather conclusive as to the climate being not unfavorable to the growth of corn of all kinds. On the following day we were detained for some time by a strong gale of wind which prevented us from leaving the island, and, on its abating a little, we had a visit from a large war party of Indians, who were encamped on an island not far distant. They came to question us as to our right to travel through their territory without asking their consent ; but as the character and habits of these people has to be consi- dered at some length, I shall not at present interrupt the subject ■J' I. SiH'Il?;?' ~'.^-'*:". •"•j'^rJtt^^ 112 under consideration, by alluding further to the interview we had with them. ., i From Garden Island to Rat Portage it is seldom that a view of the main land can be obtained. Islands appear at every turn, in a continuous labyrinth, which none but experienced guides could find their way through. These islands are, in some cases, covered with pine, while in others they are rocky and bare, or partially wooded. All accounts, however, agree in representing the main land as being in many places well adapted for settle- ment. From Rat Portage, downwards, by the Winipeg lliver, for about thirty miles, to the White Dog Island, the country appears somewhat hilly and broken, there are, nevertheless, occasional places where settlements might be formed with advantage. At the White Dog Island, there is the Indian Missionary establish- ment of Islington, in charge of the Rev. Mr. McDonald, of the Episcopal church. At this gentleman's house I was detained by illness, until the 1st of October, and had, in consequence, a good opportunity of observing the progress of the season. The first frost which affected the colour of the foliage, in the least, occurred on the 32nd September; up to that time the most delicate plants were untouched. Mr. McDonald has a small farm, on which he grows wheat, potatoes, and a variety of arti- cles, and several Indian families have settled beside him, who also cultivate the land for some extent, and with success. Between Islington and Lake Winipeg, the shores of the river and the islands are, in most cases, rocky, and on approaching Lake Winipeg, the climate becomes evidently colder. The prevailing growth of timber in this long distance is poplar, but oak and elm are to be seen occasionally, and also balm of gilcad, a species of poplar which invariably indicates a good soil. Much of this extensive country is, no doubt, well fitted for settlement ; but it will be observed that the route which it is proposed to open, does not follow the course of the Winipeg, but stretches across from the north-west angle of the Lake of the Woods to the EedRiver Settlement. This tract, so far as we have yet ex- last 113 bad riew urn, tides ases, e, or nting sttle- r, for ipears sional I. At iblish- of the ledby mce, a The least, most small of arti- n, who e river caching . The ar, but gilcad, Much ement ; used to retches Is to the yet ex- plored it, in point of soil, is not inferior to most other parts of Canada. To recapitulate, the country about Thunder Bay, and in the lower part of the valley of the Kaministiquia, may be regarded as in every way suited for a considerable settlement. The high region again, across which the route lies for about a hundred miles, from Dog Lake, to the western end of the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, may be cold, but there is nothing in the growth of the wood, or in the appearance of the soil, to indicate that it is not also, in many places, suitable for settlement. However, the climate is better on the Western slope of these high lands between the Lake of a Thousand Lakes and Rainy Lake. About Rainy Lake and from thence to Rainy River and the Lake of the Woods, following from the latter place the proposed route across to Red River, the country is, I think, as well adapted for settlement as any other part of North America. The climate is good, the soil, in general, fertile, water power is to be had in abundance, and in the woods there are many valua- ble kinds of timber. This, of itself, is a country of considerable extent ; the distance from the head of Rainy Lake, by the proposed route, being about two hundred and sixty miles, and yet it is but small and insignificant when compared to the vast region with which the road would open a communication. The Red River Settlement, of which I shall now endeavor to convey some idea, commences a short distance above Lake Winipeg, and follows the Red River for about fifty miles. *At Fort Garry this stream is joined by the Assiniboine, which flows from the westward. Up this river a continuous settlement extends for twenty-five or thirty miles, and from thence there are occasional houses to the Grand Portage, which is about seventy-five miles from Fort Garry. The population, by the last census, was 7000, but this, I balieve, does not include the settlement at the Grand Portage, nor a small settlement on a stream called the Seine, which joins the Red River from the eastward. Neither does it comprehend a large number of In- dians who encamp here in summer, nor a population of half B ^ •I' m breeds who follow the customs of their Indian ancestors, and live on the produce of the chase, without any fixed habitation, but who, nevertheless, regard Red River as their head quarters. The soil throughout the settlement, and far beyond it in the prairies, is a rich alluvial deposit. But the extent of land under cultivation is not great in proportion to the population ; nor is it to be wondered at, seeing that the settlers have no market for their surplus produce. They seem all, however, to have a great many horses and cattle, and there is scarcely a limit to the number they might keep, as hay and pasturage can be had to any extent in the prairies. In other respects the settlement is far advanced ; churches are to be met with at intervals, and there are several educational establishments, and a library. The importance of this little flourishing colony cannot be overrated, when considered in connection with the great prairie region beyond it. It will form a nucleus from whence settlements may spread in every direction ; and it is at the commencement of what might be made, and will doubtless become, a great system of water com- munication. The Red River is navigable from this for a long distance to the south, beyond the United States bound r y. To the north, there is no interruption to the further end of Lake Winipeg. The Assiniboine, which drains a great extent of the finest prairie land, is navigable for several hundred miles to vessels of light draught. The stream which flows from Manitoba Lake is navigable, and from Manitoba, I believe, there is no interruption to the Winipigoos Lake. The Saskatchewan, which gathers its waters from a country greater in extent than the vast region drained by the St. Law- rence and all its tributaries, from Lake Superior to the Gulf, is navigable by either the north or south branch, for more than a thousand miles of its course, with the single exception of a few rapids near its confluence with Lake Winipeg. So mild is the climate on the south branch of this great river that the In- dians hunt the buflaio on horseback all winter, and so little snow is said to fall, that snow shoes are seldom used. 115 That the extensive territory drained by the Saskatchewan and its tributaries, is fit for settlement, in as far as regards cli- mate, is fully proved by the success which attends the farming operations vvhich are carried on, although on a small scale, at the various trading posts throughout the country, and by the fact that the cattle and horses at these establishments are gen- erally left to forage for themselves during the winter. As regards the soil, from what is yet known of the country, there is not perhaps on the globe, so great an extent of terri- tory so little broken by barren tracts. It is said indeed, that there are plains of drifting sand in some places, between the two great branches of the Saskatchewan, but the extent of these can only be ascertained on exploration. Regarding the territory, however, in its general aspect, there is not in the universe a finer field for colonization. It has a salubrious climate, and the soil in many places, as at Red River, is unsurpassed in fertility. Iron ore, coal and salt, these indispensible articles to the wants of a cummunity, are to be found in abundance, and the whole territory, from Lake Win- ipeg to the base of the Rocky Mountains, is intersected by navigable rivers and lakes. Having thus briefly and imperfectly described the country with which it is proposed to open a communication, I would respectfully invite your attention to the necessity of coming to some understanding with the Saultaux Indians, who inhabit the country about Rainy Lake and the Lake of the Woods. These people are well informed as to the object of our visit, and they have conceived the idea (to some extent reasonably enough) that the opening up of the communication and colonization of the country would deprive them of th^r hunting grounds, and impressed with this conviction, they threaten to stop us even in carrying on the surveys and explorations, and indeed they have done so in one instance already. I have alluded to an inter- view which we had with a large party of them at the Lake of the Woods, I shall now, with your permission, describe it more particularly, as it will inform you in some measure as to the character of these people, and the views which they entertain. 116 Before leaving Fort Francis it had been arranged that Profes- sor Hind, the chief of the geological branch of the expedition, and I, should cross the country from the Lake of the Woods to Red River. We accordingly provided ourselves with two small canoes, each manned with two men, one of whom was an In- dian guide engaged for the occasion. In the mean time we had been informed that a war party of the Saultaux were out against the Sioux, with whom they are constantly at feud, and that it was probable we should meet them, as we were going by the route which they usually follow on such excursions. Having encamped on Garden Island, in the Lake of the Woods, we were detained during the greater part of the following day by a gale of wind, which prevented us from leaving it. In the mean time our guide had conversed with some Indians, and they carried the intelligence of our arrival to the party just re- ferred to, who were encamped on an Island some miles off. In the morning sixteen painted warriors made their appearance? and told us that their chiefs desired to see us on their Island, in order to learn from us the reason and the object of our visit. This invitation we declined, at the same time making the mes- sengers a present of some tobacco, and such little articles as we could spare. Our reply was sent back to the chiefs, but most of those who had come remained with us, squatting them- selves about the camp fire and talking of various subjects. A little after noon, the wind having somewhat abated, we ob- served thirteen canoes putting off from the Island where the main body of the party was encamped, and as they approached Professor Hind and I arranged that he should keep notes of what took place while I conversed with the Chiefs, through the medium of one of the men, who was an excellent interpreter and quite familiar with their language. When the Indians arrived, they drew their canoes on the shore and coming up to our tent, seated themselves in a semicircle about the fire. I do not think I ever saw a finer body of men, they were tall, some of them over 6 feet, and well formed, and they had a free, easy, and independent air about them, very unlike the sub- dued bearing of the Indians in the settled parts of Canada. I i 2S- 3n, 1 to tall In- we out and 3ing ons. )ods, day nthe , and stre- ss off. •ancC) jland, i visit. mes- es aa but hem- A ve ob- re the ached rtes of ghthe prater dians up to re. I e tall, a free, c sub- nada. :s. 117 With the exception of the principal chief they all had their faces painted in every variety of colour, in which however black and red were the predominant. They were evidently arranged in their best attire, most of them having hawks' fea- thers in their hair, which again was painted and tied with ornamented bands, except the scalp lock, which was painted red and left free, some of them were completely dressed, while others had only on a pair of embroidered leggings with a blanket thrown carelessly about their naked forms. The prin- cipal chief alone, an aged man, wore no paint or ornament of any kind. When they had all squatted themselves, I sat down in front of them, and after the pipe of peace, which, with them, is always a preliminary to discussion, had been smoked, the old chief rose and said, ** What brings the white man to our coun- try ?" I replied that we were travelling by order of the Cana- dian Government, and that we were on our way to Red iliver. He then said, " My children — those you see about you are my children — have desired to have a conference with you ; I leave them to speak for themselves." Another phief then spoke, and alluding in the first place to the deeds of their ancestors, asked us if we had seen a grave at the Great Falls, and said that that grave was the resting place of a mighty chief who had conquered all this country ; that they were all descended from him, and that he had left them the woods and rivers as an inheritance, which they would sooner lose their lives than relinquish. He then taxed us, very pointedly, with our want of courtesy in sending expeditions to the right and the left, in short wherever we chose, through their territory without even so much as coming to con- sult them or ask their consent ; and concluded by saying that we must go by the old route. I replied that we had no wish to interfere with their privileges ; that the director of the expedi- tion had been pressed for time when he passed, but that I had no doubt he would make a point of seeing them when he came again ; and then appealed to them, whether, as Indian chiefs and warriors, they should not rather forward the stranger on his way, than thus to stop him when they beheld him powerless. This had ( 1 MiJiifa.AU. ■y:"X7--s:;i.-xi. ~Ma it seemed to afford the whole party the greatest pleasure to have it in their power to oblige us in one way, after having thwarted us in another. During the conference they were grave and silent, only one speaking at a time, and, although if they had been evilly disposed, they were the stronger party, they treated us throughout with the utmost deference and respect. The conversation or rather council once over, however, they crowded about the tent, and became quite friendly and familiar ; one old chief made us promise that we should never come to the 119 led lief the had not ther pro- was, din- must 1. It rersa- twith acute, >sentS( us as ind to- is they ts, and uld in- that as e had juides, [ith the Ijg men, llacrity, lust say isure to Lake of the Woods Tvithout going to see him on his island. We then divided the remainder of our tobacco among them, and after a friendly smoke, they all shook hands \vith us, -wished us a prosperous journey, and departed. As the tribe to which these Indians belong, inhabit a consider- able part of the country which it is proposed to open, it becomes a matter of importance to learn their character, and ascertain the manner in which they may be best conciliated. This branch of the tribe, as I learn from a clergyman who has spent many years in a vain attempt to convert them, numbers about 800 warriors or hunters ; but they are spread over an extensive country, and except in summer, when the fish is abundant in the lakes and rivers, they cannot collect in large numbers ; they are the rem- nants of a very old and once powerful tribe, whose chief had his residence at Rainy Falls, and held sway from Sault Ste. Marie to the confines of the great prairies. They are generally accounted to have been among the bravest and most warlike of the Indian tribes, until that fearful scourge of the Indian race, the small pox, reduced them to their present diminished numbers. They are still proud of their traditions, and very sensitive as to any en- croachment on what they conceive to be their rights, and they still adhere pertinaciously to their old customs and ceremonies ; every attempt to convert them to Christianity has failed except in the case of Mr. McDonald, at Islington, who has a congrega- tion of about 50, and Mr. Chron6, at Lake Superior, who has also a small congregation. But these latter can be hardly accounted as belonging to this branch of the tribe, for they never meet them in council, and have but little communication with them. In dealing with them, therefore, it must be borne in mind that they are still the same barbarians that they ever were, and that, although they arc perhaps among the most intelligent of the Indian tribes, and have many good traits of character, they are uncertain in disposition, and like all savages, ready to resort to violence on but slight provocation. The United States Government, as I understand, has pur- chased, from the same tribe, a tract of land at the Grand Portage, ^s'^:'Ms^^s3i 120 for which they pay them a yearly sum in the shape of presents, and this I think would be the best way of dealing with the In- dians at Rainy Lake and the Lake of the Woods. A tract of, say ten miles in depth, might in the meantime be taken up along the whole route, and if for relinquishing so much, they were paid in yearly presents of the articles they most value, such as blankets, tobacco, powder, shot, &c., they would find it their interest to offer no opposition to the operations which it might be necessary to carry on. In the meantime I think the surveys can be carried out, by keeping up a friendly intercourse with them. Just before the close of the navigation, I had a visit from another Saultauz Chief, who lives in the direction of Pembina. He came attended by 16 followers, all of whom had their faces painted yellow with black streaks down across the throat and cheeks. On introducing himself, he said that he had heard of the strangers from Canada and that he had come such a long journey to bid them welcome to the country. I immediately got him and his party some re- freshments, and when they had partaken of these gave them some trifling presents when they went off, as I since learn, mightily pleased with their reception. With regard to the operations which are now being carried on, two of my assistants, Mr. Gaudet and Mr. Russell, with a well organized party, are exploring the country between this place and the Lake of the Woods, and in order more effectually to accomplish this, they are running a line direct across on either side of which they examine the ground as they proceed. This line is now opened for more than half the distance through, and, so far, the only serious obstacle to making a road that has been met with, is a morasa about 80 chains in width, which, however, can be avoided by making a detour. My chief assistant, Mr. Wells, has been aid- ing me for come time past in compiling the map which I send with this report. He will now be engaged for a few weeks in surveying the country from Fort Garry by the lied River and Winipcg Lake, to the mouth of the Winipeg. When this survey, with the line to the Lake of the Woods, is completed, and connected with the survey of the boundary commissioners ' m 121 from Lake Superior, the geography of this part of the country will be accurately established. When the work now in hand is completed, we shall endeavor to explore the country between the Lake of a Thousand Lakes and Rainy Lake. With regard to the accompanying map, the canoe route from Lake Superior to Rainy Lake is laid down from a sketch which I took in passing through. The Nipigon River, the stream entering the head of Black Bay, the two main tributaries of the Kaministiquia, Fish River and the Matawin, together with the upper tributaries of Dog River and the lower part of the Lake of a Thousand Lakes, are from Indian charts ; from Rainy Lake to the lower end of the Lake of the Woods, the plan is reduced from the boundary sur- vey, while the Winipeg River and Lake to the mouth of Red River are from a sketch taken by Mr. Wells. The annexed statement of levels can only be regarded as a close estimate, except, where, as stated, actual measurements took place. My assistants, Messrs. Wells, Gaudet and Russell have all ex- erted themselves to forward the objects of the expedition to the utmost of their ability. Mr. De Salaberry, the bearer of this, although attached to another branch of the expedition, has been very enera;etic, and has rendered us all the most valuable assii^- tance, and he now undertakes the long journey to Canada with the geatest alacrity. I have, therefore, much pleasure in recom- mending him to your favorable notice. I have the honor to be. Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) S. J. Dawson. The Honorable The Commissioner of Crown Lands, &c. 1 ] 122 Levels of the Kaministiquia and Winipeg Rivers, by the Canoe Route, from Lake Superior to Lake Winipeg. Vo. 1... s.. 8.. 4.. 0.. 6.. 7.. 8.. 0.. 10., 11.. Estimated rise, flrom Lake Superior to lower end of Kakabeka or Qrand Falls Portage :— From Lake Superior to the first Bapid on the Ka- ministiquia River, the Hse is supposed to be 4 inches per mile, and the duitance about 12 miles— DUt. 12 1st Rapid, estimated to be i Left Current, for two miles 2 2nd Rapid i f 3rd 4th 6th 6th 7th Sth 9th Swift Current 1 10th Paresseux Rapid, measured nth Rapid 12th ''' , Three miles ftx)m this to the next Rapid the current being con> siderable, say, 6 in. per mile ... l»th Rapid 14th '^ Rise in feet. 400 2-50 1-60 3-00 1 50 3-60 8-00 800 800 6-00 2-00 610 200 8-60 1-60 6-00 3 60 12... 13... 14.., 16.., Kakabeka Falls, inoludinfr the Rapids above and below from the lower to the upper end of the Portage, measured Portage Ecarte, from the lower to the upper end, measured 11 mile quiet water, 4 inches per mile Nioolct Portage, the oanoes were towed up the Rapid which passes this Portage, rise, including current above and below, estimated to be Rapid, wliich the canoes are poled up, estimated to be t mile moderate current to Island Portage, including a small ripple Island Portage, measured Short Portage, immediately above the Island For' loge, measured Mokamaii Falls, measured Above the Mokaman Falls, four Rapids occur in the spoceof a mile and a half, ascent in which was eNtiniatuii as follows <— 1st Rapid, which the canoes arc towed up 2nd " " poled up 8rd " " towed up 4th " " poled up Distance. Miles. 3-00 2-UO 800 4 00 Half a mile of current, Including a small ripple ... 3 miles moderate current, supposed to be 4 inches pernillo Half Portage, ascont CHtimated to be about 6 feet in a diHtRUce of 10 chains A mile of nulot water, say 000 Rapid, which oanoet arc poled up 8 ch, 4(10 22 Chains. 46-99 62-00 87-61 40-CO 1000 10*00 40-00 8 00 800 400 40-flO 40-00 10-00 8.00 Rise in feet. 58*20 119*06 62-66 0*50 6*60 4*00 1*00 12-62 6 00 19-26 OD 12-00 1 00 1*00 600 4-BO 63*») 172*25 234-90 236-40 841*90 246*90 246-00 200-02 266-42 285-67 297-67 298-67 299*67 804-67 30917 123 Levels of the Kaministiqaia and Witiipeg Rivers, &c.— (Continued.) ' III OD 63'20 iwa5 234-90 a3&-40 ,841-90 I 245-90 246-90 269-68 266-42 286-67 299*67 804-67 ko I 300-17 No. 16... 17... 18.. 19.. 20.. 21.. 23., 24., 26., 27., Three miles of quiet water, supposed to be ... 1 '00 Rapid below old Matawan Fort 3 00 Two little Bapids occur within a mile above the Matawan, rise, including current, between them 6-00 Two and a half miles moderate current to next Rapid, say 4 inches per mile 00*88 Rapid Fall, estimated Two miles of considerable current, say 6 inches per mile Rapid, which canoes are poled up, estimated to ee 4-00 1\ mile considerable current to next Rapid... 00 -75 Two Rapids occur within half a mile below the Little Dog Portage, the rise in which is about — Ist Rapid 8.00 2nd " half portage 4-00 Intermediate current 1-00 Little Dog Portage, from foot to head, measured Rapid immediately above Little Dog Portage, e8ti< mated Three miles smooth water to the Great Dog Portage, supposed to be about 4 inches per mile Great Dog Portage, fk-om water level at the lower end to Dog Lake, measured For the succeeding 8 miles across Dog Lake, there is no perceptible current, and from thence for 21 miles upwards, the river of the same name winds through a marsh, with a very little current. The total rise to Cold Water Lake I estimate as fol- lows 21 miles, Through marsh 2 inches per mile 8-60 Swift run at head of marsh 1*00 Ist Rapid, i mile above swift run, 3 chains in length, measured 8*80 2i miles smooth wntnr, 2 inehev per mile... 00*41 2nd Rapid, Jourdain, meanured ''L^^- ^'00 8 mileii dead water from thence to Cold Water Lake, 3 inches per mile 00*76 Prairie Portage from Cold Water Lake, the source of this branch of Dog Uivor, to a small Pond dis- charging itself into the Savanne River, being the summit water level by this route, between the water of the Kaministiquia and the Winipeg, measured 28.. 20,. 80.,. 81. Middle portage measured Bavaniie Portnge, from the small lake at the west end of middle portage to the Savanne River mea> Rured From the Savanno Portatre to Lake of a Thousand Lakes, the doitmit for distance of twenty-four miles, the current being moderate throuulioiit, is supposed to be about four Inelies iter mile In the Lake of a Thousand Lakes the current is supposed to bo about one inch per mile for tweuty miles Distance. Miles. 3 8 84 24 10 Chains. 40-00 6-00 40-00 40-00 8-00 800 78-00 68-00 80-00 88*60 4100 ••••••••••fli Rise in feet. 4-00 6-83 4-00 1-00 4-76 8*00 14-94 2*60 1 00 847*81 18-06 167-12 VkU in r«et. 16 89 8109 8-00 100 1131 H«) s 813-17 320-0O 324-00 825-00 829*7& 337 75 362 -U» 365-10 366 *1» 704-00 782 00 870-18 4B-0S 66'OS 87-74 ..! f « ■lilHiiiifiia 124 Levels of the Kaminisliquia and Winipeg Rivers, &c. — (Continued.) • Distance. Fall in feet. Total faU from Prwrie Portage. ■ No. Miles. Chains. I 32... Baril Portage, from the Lake of a Thousand Lakes to Baril Lake, ascent measured 1*86, distance 16*85 chains 1685 40-00 21-00 1-86 65-88 ^M In Baril Lake, the discharge being very small, in proportion to its size, there is supposed to be no appreciable current ; the length of the lake is about « Portage Brul^, from Baril Lake to Windegoostcgoon Lake mea>4ured 8 I 33... 47-02 6-00 99 71 6-90 117-22 1-.33 4-61 6-71 8-00 1-76 6-00 1-87 10-06 1 25 1-26 7-00 12-14 2-25 0-88 7-60 102-90 108-90 208-61 H 34... From the Brul6 to Portage Frangais, a distance of ten miles, a succession of small lakes occur, with a moderate current between them, and at one place a little rapid, fall supposed to be six feet in ten miles 10 1 36... 3^1 French Portage, from the brook at the east end to the lake at the went, measured Lac Demarais or Pine Portage, measured 60-00 26-00 32-00 \i "^- 37 Thence across small pond to Deux Rivieres portage there is no appreciable current. Deux Rivieres Portage measured 332-73 334-06 838-67 345-28 363-28 366-03 861-03 362-00 372 98 374-21 376-46 .182-46 301-00 303-86 406-73 414-» .1 38... From Deux Rivi6res Portage to the first rapid below Sturgeon Lake, a distance of about six- teen miles, there being a little current occa- sionally in the narrowest parts, allow, say, one inch per mile 16 30 ,, Rapid Dochargo, half portage, measured 11-00 8-15 '« 69 40... Second rapid below Sturgeon Lake mea- sured 3'18 C'21 Intermediate current between it and the first raoid 5'00 0*60 ^B 1 41... Two rapids, which the canoes run, occur below the above. First rapid estimated 2*50 2 3 Second do 4*00 Intermediate swift current 1*50 3i miles to Tanner's rapid or reef portage, including a swift run, say 42... 40 00 4-00 60 00 0-13 4000 40-00 4!t Tanner's Rapid, estimated 44... From Tanner's Rapid to Island Portage, the current being considerable, say six inches per mile 3 45... Island Portage measured 40... 2^ miles to Pine Lake, the current being considera* ble, say six incliL's pi^r mile 2 7 2 47... Pino Lake, 7i miles in length, allowing two inches per mile 48... From Pine Lake to Snake Falls, the river being very rapid for a distance of two miles, fall estimated to be seven feet 40 Snake Falls measured 5-00 60.. Three miles from Snake Falls to the second rapid below Pine Lake, a strong current prevailing, ■ay nine inches per mile 3 61 Seoond portage below Pino Lake mea.'iured 8*00 62... In the next navigable space, between the second portage below Pino Lake and the high fivlls, two small rapids ooour, wliicli, with the intermediate current, were estimated as follows i Fli-st rapid 2 00 A Second do 260 Six miles intormediato current, six Inches per milo • • 8'00 125 ■88 S-90 18-90 )8-61 • 132-73 334-06 338-67 345-28 353-28 Levels of the Kaministiquia and Winipeg Rivers, &c.— {Continued.) No. 63., 64., S5.. 66.. 67.. 68.. 69.. 60.. 61., 355-03 ^m 301-03 B 03 362-90 H 37-2 96 B 64 6S 374-21 ■ GO 375-46 ■ 67 382-46 H 304-00 ■ U ■ 6» 303-85 ■ 406-73 1 1 70 71 I 414-2S I 72 73 High Falls measured Tlie succpcdiiiK space of five miles, in which two chains of heavy rapid occur, was estimated as follows: One chain of rapids f mile in length 8*00 Two chains of rapids, one mile in length 9*00 3} miles intermediate strong current nine inches per mile 2'43 6} miles through Lac la Troix, supposed to be one inch per mile Bar6 Portage, from Lac la Croix to a pond discharg ing itself into Rainy Irfike measured From pond to Rainy Lake no fall, but a portage of eleven chains in length Bainy Lake, forty miles from the lower end to the upper end, reckoning from Bar6 Portage, the current not being perceptible except iu the narrow parts, say one inch per mile From Rainy Lake to Rainy Falls two small rapids occur. Fall in first rapid at foot of Lake, say 2'60 Fall in second rapid 3-00 Two miles moderate current 00-60 Distance. Miles. Rainy Falls, at Fort Francis, measured In Rainy River, betweoti Port Francis and the Lake of the Woods, two small rapids occur. The first, the Manit ou, having a fall of about...2'60 And the Long Rapid 3'50 The intermediate current is considerable, but the volume of water being great, it would be prodticed by a fall of four inches per mile, which, for sixty.four miles, would give 21-33 In the I^ake of the Woods, sixty.four miles In length, the fall may be about one inch per mile Rat Portage measured 8) miles to Les Dalles, four inches per mile Los Dalles, estimated Twenty-four miles qulot water, supposed to average about two inches per mile Grande Ddchargc, esHniatcd 2i miles from Grande IkV-hargc to Yellow Mud, in* eluding a small rapid, estimated 4'25 Yellow Mud Falls measured Rapids below Yellow Mud Falls estimated.. .7*00 2} miles to Pine Portage, six inches per mile., .1-25 Pine Portage measured Rapids below Pine I'ortngn— Cave Rapids 4*00 From I'ine Portage to Portage de ITslo, twenty one miles, estimated to be three inohcH per mile 6.26 Portage de I'Isle, estimated From Portage de I'lslo to Chute h Jacnuot, twenty- llvo miles quiet water, supposed to be about two Inches per mile 416 A ■mall rapid I'OO Chute fi Jacquot measured Rapid immediately below t'hute h Jacq\iot I'OO Sovtn luilai deadwaler.say two inches pur iuUo...l-16 6 6 40 04 64 8 24 21 26 Chains. 6'80 40-00 6-64 11-00 7-77 12-95 40-00 4000 30 00 40 on 6 20 4000 10-60 8000 S-00 Fall in feet. 16-08 19-43 00-64 8-65 3-33 6-00 22-68 26-33 6-33 1600 2-83 4-00 4-00 6-00 4-25 22-02 8-25 8-24 9-25 3-40 6-16 12-07 2 16 mi 430-31 449-74 460-28 458-83 462-10 468-16 491-04 617-37 622-70 638 70 541-63 646-63 549-63 066-63 869-78 6S1 80 600-05 600-29 007-64 610-94 610-10 620-07 631 IS ^ 126 Levels of the Kaministiquia and Winipeg Rivers, &c.— r {Continued,) .Uiih'ViJm^lM No. 74... 76... 76... 77... 78.., 79... 80... First Pointe desBois 12-72 10-60 Second do 4*90 19*92 Rapid .» 1*60 Third Pointe des Bois 2'80 7*80 Intermediate between the points 1*20 2*60 Four miles from third Pointe des Bois to Slave Falls, quiet water, say three inches per mile Slave Falls measured Six miles fh>m Slave F^s to !« Barridre, esti- mated to be four inches per mile 2*0 Ia Barri^re measured 4*97 Small rapid below la Barriftre 1*00 Six miles from La Barri^re to Otter Falls, supposed to be about four inches per mile 2'00 Otter Falls, estimated 8*00 In the succeediuR eight miles, from Otter Falls to the Seven Portages, three rapids occur, supposed to have a fall in a distance of two miles of... 6*60 Six miles intermediate strong current, sup posed to be nine inches per mile 4-60 Seven Portages. First portage measured 4*20 Second do do 8'00 Intermediate rapid estimated Third portage measured 6*20 Fourth do do Fifth and sixth portage measured Seventh portage measured Distance pastttie four last portages... 60*00 Two miles rapid between portages es* timated to haveafallof. 10*28 8-47 2*00 660 7-68 11*03 4-76 Miles. 4*00 81... From the last of the Seven Portages to Oalais du Bonnet, the distance is estimated at eighteen miles, for the first eight miles current supposed to be about six inches per mile 4*00 Ten miles smooth water in Bonnet Lake, say two inches per mile 1*66 Galais du Bonnet— 1st GMais, measured 7*80 7.31 2nd " " 4*00 5*00 Between Falls, estimated 40*00 1*00 83... 84... 86.. 86... 87... 88... Four miles considerable current to Grand Bonnet, 6 inches per mile Grand Bonnet, measured 80 chains from Grand to Petit Bonnet, flill supposed to be 100 Petit Bonnet, measured 13*00 8*26 Por- Four miles from Petit Bonnet to White Mud tage. strong current, say 9 inches por mile. White Mud Portage, measured Similes, trom white Mud Portage to 1st Silver Falls, a considerable current prevailing, say 6 Inches per milo .,.. , , 1 4 18 nee. Fall in Chains. feet. 40-42 42*22 >••••• »•••• 1*00 30-40 10-80 7-97 5-00 11-00 72-40 68-76 6*66 61-30 13-31 2*00 60-00 34*23 43-00 0*26 8-00 18*06 16'80 40*00 1'78 673-46 674*48 684*26 702*22 707-22 718-22 771-98 777*64 790'96 792*95 827*18 836*43 839-46 862*48 864-23 127 I^— of the Kan^inisquia and Winipeg Kive. ^ ' (Continued.) ^ ^'^' ^^- 90... o^^^*"*!!. measured ... zna ' «« 's mil£ ft^'i5'«»»»'«d ....!.'... ^ * ""'•^s per mile ... Miles. Chains. Fall in feet. S 9i (S level of iSe wfnte S,f ?,"* ^e^nder '^•the 40-00 I 28-62 f 879-85 i2-'00"/ 8-35 I 8^9-86 * I I 2-00 j 891-86 (Signed,) s. J. DAWSON. ■ ,i ! -■ -i W ■1 ?! « 128 Red River Settlement, 15th March, 1858. Sir, — I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 30th January, enclosing a draft on the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company for five hundred pounds (£500) sterling, which has been duly placed to my credit at that Company's es- tablishment at Fort Garry. I enclose a report on the explorations which I am engaged in carrying on, which after you have taken cognizance of its con- tents, you will oblige me by handing to the Hon. the Provincial Secretary. Your instructions with regard to the exploration of the Rat and Roseau Rivers, shall be duly attended to immediat'^Iy on the breaking up of the ice. I beg leave to invite your notice to the suggestions which I have offered in reference to the further explorations in which it occurs to me that I, and the party under my charge, would be most advantageously employed between the lime of the comple- tion of the service just alluded to, and your arrival at Red River. I have handed Mr. Napier a receipt for the instruments, and other articles, which in accordance with your instructions, he has placed in my charge. I think with you that, considering the work in contemplation, I shall require four assistants ; and in accordance with your eug- gestions will retain Mr. De Salaberry. Trusting that the extent of exploration accomplished, so far during the winter, will meet with your approval, and that of the Government. I have the honor to be. Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) S. J. Dawson. George Gladman, Esq., Director Red River Settlement, Hon. Provincial Secretary's Office, Toronto. 129 ;8. your ►rable irUng, ^'s es- ored in o s con- vincial the Kat a^ly on (Fliicli I which it ?ould be comple- id River. ints, and [ions, he iplation, ^our sug- Id, so far, lat of the iWSON. V . , Red Rivbr Settlement, 15th March, 1858. SiR) — In accordance with your memorandum of instructions, transmitted to me by the director of the Red River Expedition, I beg leave to submit to your notice through him, for the in- formation of the Grovernment, the following report on the pro- gress which, with the aid of the party under my charge, I have made in the exploration of this part of the country since the date of my last report. The accompanying rough sketch, which is hastily made up from the field notes, shows the position of Lac Plat, and the character of the region explored between that lake and the Red River Settlement. In its general aspect the country is flat, presenting an appear* ance of an almost uniform level, with but slight elevations. It rises, nevertheless, though gradually and almost imperceptibly, to an elevation of nearly 400 feet above the level of Red River ; and as there must be everywhere a sufficient fall for drainage, the prevalence of marshy ground, as indicated on the map, can only be accounted for on the assumption that the surface soil rests on a bottom impervious to the absorption of water, which, indeed, we have found to be generally the case where we have dug down in the low grounds. The exploratory line which, as explained in the report just re- ferred to, I conceived it expedient to run in the first instance, is represented on the plan by a black dotted line ; while the line dotted in red indicates the route which, on a critical examination was found to be the most favorable for a road. The total distance from Fort Garry to Lac Plat, in a direct line is 86 miles ; from the Rapids Church it is 83^ miles, and by the route it ia proposed to follow as the line of road, 91 1. By the latter route dli^ miles would be over open prairie, and 60 miles through a wooded country. Wheeled vehicles can already bo driven over the prairie with facility, except in very wet weather, and the wooded portion of the route is in every way favorable for -i ^■:2?5?2rsasaarfst5iwiii'!-i; 130 a road. From the prairie to the White Mouth River, the soil is good, consisting, in general, of a dark loam, mixed with small angular pebbles of limestone. For some distance to the east- ward of that river the country is of the same character. It then becomes more marshy, and on approaching Lac Plat, the growth of timber indicates a poorer soil. The whole region having been swept at no distant period by fire, is not heavily wooded ; and, as is usual in such cases, the prevailing growth on the higher grounds is poplar, while in the lower, cypress and spruce predominate. On the worst part of the line between White Mouth River and Lac Plat there is not over four miles which can properly be called swamp, and even where the ground partakes of that character, it presents no serious obstacle to the construc- tion of a road, for beneath the surface coating of vegetable mould, the subsoil is either of a stiff clay, or coarse sand mixed with waterworn pebbles, as will be seen on reference ^o the an- nexed extract of a letter from my chief assistant, Mr. Wells, who spent nearly two months in examimng the country to the east of the White Mouth River. It will be seen, on reference to the map, that aline drawn from the Rapids Church to Lac Plat, would pass nearly parallel with the east branch of White Mouth River. It tlierefore appeared to me to be advisable to examine the country between the Rapids and the point of confluence of the east with the main branch of that stream, and also to ascertain whether and to what extent the east branch was navigable. This route was accordingly examined, but on exploration it was found to be unfavorable throughout a considerable portion of its extent. A beautiful wooded country of the richest land conceivable extends for about 25 miles east- ward from the Rapids, but on approaching Broken Head River, the ground becomes marshy and maintains that character to the White Mouth River, the east branch of which, near its conflu- ence with the main stream, is too rough to be available for either boat or canoe navigation* Failing in finding a suitable line of communication by this route, I directed the explorations to the South, and in as far as 131 IS all st- leti irth ing sd; the 'uce hite Lcan akes true- table aixed lean- Vells, totbe )y this far as regards the discovery of ground suitable for a road, with the most satisfactory result. The route indicated on the plan by the red dotted line, whether as regards economy of construction, the gentleness of grades that would be necessary, or the general adaptability of the land bordering on it for settlement, is, I may say, all that could be desired for a line of road : and the ground is throughout so even that a railroad will be easily constructed when colonization shall have advanced so far as to render such a work necessary. By actual measurement the distance from Red River to the monument erected by the boundary commissioners at the north- west angle of the Lake of the Woods, is less by 16 miles than it is represented to be on the maps with which we were provided. So that assuming the position of the monument to be accurately established by careful astronomical observation, too great a longi- tude by about 21 minutes has been assigned to Red River. The mistakes to which this error has led, we will be enabled to cor- rect when the surveys and explorations now in progress are com- pleted. In my report of the 18th December, I mentioned that the Indians who inhabit the country in the direction of the Lake of the Woods, objected to surveys being carried on in their territory. When we had reached White Mouth River with the line, they sent us a haughty summons to stop our operations, and com- manded the Indians who were in the party to leave us, under pain of incurring their serious resentment. This summons we disregarded, but most of the men who were with us, taking alarm, left. I replace'^ them with others on . whom I thought I could rely, and co- tit ^d the work. In the meantime, some of our party went ^ ughtoLac Flat, where they saw several Indian fami- lies ; at first they met with a cold and sullen reception. Gradually, however, the Indians became more friendly, and ere the survey was completed, they rendered us the most valuable assistance, in pointing out the direction of the streams, and the position of the marshes and dry grounds. Some of them even came to visit me here, and when our people were withdrawn they parted with ' '\f 1 ■y^ 132 them apparently with as much regret as they had evinced dis- pleasure at seeing them in the first instance. . In carrying on the explorations, two small parties were em- ployed, one under the direction of Mr. Wells, to the eastward of White Mouth River, and the other under Mr. Gaudet, between that stream and this place. On the third instant, having com- pleted the surveys, in as far as they could be accomplished during winter, both parties came in. By the 8th I had them again equipped, and sent Mr. Gaudet to scale by the Red River and Lake Winipeg, to Fort Alexander, and in this service he is now engaged. On his return he will scale Red River, to the boundery line at Pembina, noting the points of conflueuce of the Roseau, Rat, and other tributary streams. Mr. Wells is now on the Assiniboine, having been despatched at the same time to make a cursory survey of that River for two hundred miles or so, to the westward, or as far as the season will permit. These surveys will be attended with but an inconsiderable outlay, Mr. Gaudet having only three men with him, and Mr. Wells but two, with a train uf dogs. Immediately on the breaking up of the ice, I shall, in conform- ity with the instructions transmitted me by the director of the expe'litioii, examine the Rat and Roseau Rivers, but after this service is completed there will still be an interval of some time, which can be employed in further exploration before Mr. Glad- man can arrive from Canada, I would, therefore, respectfully recommend the expediency of occupying this time in exploring in the direction of the Manitoba and Winipegoos Lakes. The country bordering on these extensive sheets of water is represen- ted as being admirably adapted for settlement, and presenting as they do sncli an extent of inland navigation, it is of importance to ascertain whether the stream which connects them with Lake Winipeg is also navigable, and whether, as some voyagers report, there is a connection at high water, between Winipegoos Lake and the great Saskatchewan River. If it should be judged expedient to carry the exploration so far, it would not occupy tiiuch additional time to take the levels, and ascertain the pre- m 133 dis- etn- rdof ween com- uring again r and 3 now indery ,oseaa, on the make a , to the surveys Gaudet , with a ci^e nature of the obstructions at the grand rapid, which is said lo be the only impediment to the navigation of the Saskatchewan, between Lake Winipeg and the base of the rocky mountains. I could accomplish this exploration, and jreturn here to meet the director of the expedition, by the Idth of June, which ie about the earliest date at which canoes usually arrive from Lake Superior. If instructions on this subject were mailed at Toronto not later than the 16th April, they would reach this about the 13th May, by which time I shall have completed the exploration of Rat and Roseau Rivers. « I have the honour to be. Sir, Your most obedient servant, (Signed,) S. J. Dawson. The Hon. the Provincial Secretary, Toronto, C. W. -.^ 1^ - onform- r of the ler this e time, r. G\ad- ectfuUy xploring s. The epresen- nting as Iportance \th Lake voyagers nipegoos e judged occupy the pre- Extract of a letter from Mr. Alexander WellSy Assistant to Mr. Dawson^ dated White River, nth February^ 1858. Lac Plat is more a Bay of the Lake of the Woods than a separate Lake, its discharge being through a long deep bay, which in some places has the appearance of a broad river. This bay terminates in two ripples, distant from each other twenty-four chains. The first ripple is about twenty-three miles from the end of Gaudet's line, upon a course of about N. 70^ E. I scaled through, but it is too cold to make a plan here. The fall in the first ripple is twelve or fourteen inches ; in the second it is from five to seven inches, not more. The first ripple from deep water to deep water, is one hundred feet. The channel is sixty-six feet wide, and there is an average depth of two feet of water over the bar. The bar is of a loose friable slate, soft and easily removed. The second bar is only forty feet from deep water, in other respects it does not vary from the first. The water between and on either side of the " I iri~ "r' -I «^.--£g»S^roMMCTaa»r^.<. 134 ripples IS very deep. I was surprised at the small quantity of water discharged from so large a lake, and searched for another outlet, but found none. The Indians assured me that there was no other discharge. They also said that at high water the current would be for'some days from the Lake of the Woods into Lac Plat. I had collected quite a lot of specimens, intending to send them by this opportunity, but my man has unfortunately sent the bag in which they were kept to the shanty. A specimen of the slate in the bar at the outlet of Lac Plat is, amongst others, in this bag. I send you, however, two specimens from the N. W. side of Lac Plat. The quartz I wish you would examine closely, as I think it contains sulphate of copper ; the other is a kind of a flint, which the Indians here use for arrow heads. In the Bay of the Lake of the Woods, into which Lac Plat discharges itself, there is a small cut of trap rock, with veins of jasper. On one or two Islands in Lac Plat, I observed a coarse red granite, the rest is all slate, more or less resembling freestone. From the first lake to the N. E. branch of the White River, I dug holes upon every mile, so as to be able to state accurately the nature of the surface and bottom earth ; the latter is a whitish yellow clay, the surface is of a black vegetable mould, varying in depth from two inches to three feet ; the depth of three feet occurs only once, and from the nature of the timber, I am certain that it does not extend more than three quarters of a mile. Over the whole distance there may be an average of ten inches of black mould on top of the clay. I examined the N. E. branch of the White River for about ten miles, westward from where the line crosses it. After which I returned by the line, as I had not finished what I wished to do in that quarter. I found that the river diverges very slowly from the line, as at that distance it is not more than four and a half miles north of it. I intend to start from here in the morning, and to complete this part by following the river to where I turned the ottier day. So far as I saw the river, it is not very crooked, is from forty to sixty feet wide, has from six to ten feet water, with but little 135 » sepd y sent cimen [longst 9 from would sr; the f arrow .ac Plat veins of a coarse ee stone, e River, curately ttter is a J mould, le depth timber, larters of erage of lined the reatward id by the It quarter. |ine, as at ^orthof it. complete ►ther day. fi forty to but little current, and has banks rising to a height of from five to eight feet above the ice. All the streams here have high banks. Those at the main White River are forty or fifty feet in height. After this I retumed to the line where it crosses the river, and examined it from the N. E. branch to this place, in the same manner that I had previously examined that portion of it be- tween the Lake and River. I found the surface earth to be of the same description, but not so thick, as in several cases it \a not over an inch or two in depth for two or three miles. The sub-soil is of a totally different character, being of a whitish grey sand, in some places fine, and in others coarse and water- worn. The bottom changes immediately on crossing the N. E. branch. It is a mistake to suppose that all the open land here is bottomless swamp. I found in several other instances that there were only from twelve to fifteen inches of black mould, or wet coarse sand. (Signed,) Alexander Wells. S. J. Dawson, Esq., Red River Settlement. 136 Secretary's OfficE) 20th April, 1858, Sir,— I have the honour to acknowledge the reoeipVof your letter of the 15th March last, addressed to Mr. Gladman, toge- ther with the report, of same date, of your explorations ad- dressed to me. 2. I have read, with much satisfaptionf the interesting details furnished in your report. 3. Under the last paragraph of the general instructions sent you, under date the 14th instant, you will perceive that you are at liberty to make the exploration in the direction of the Mani- toba and Winipegoos Lakes, proposed in your report, should you think it desirable, with a view to the general objects of the expedition. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant, (Signed,) T. J. J. Loravobr. S. J. Dawson, Esq., Surveyor in charge Red River Expedition, Red River Settlement. ' Toronto, 6th Febraary, 1868. Sir, — I have the honor to submit a final Report on my de- partment of the Canadian Red River Exploring Expedition. In a letter addressed to your predecessor, the Hon. T. L. Terrill, M.P.P., dated St. Paul, Minnesota Territory, Oct. 28, 1857, 1 furnished a general scheme of a Report, comprising some topics not mentioned in my instructions. On returning to Toronto, I waited on the Hon. Mr. Terrill, who, with reference to the general plan of this Report, expressed hift concurrence and approval. 137 ge- ad- aiU gent a are lani- loald ts of 1KB* L858. I my de- lion. \, T. L. )ct. 28, uprising Terrill, [pressed The introdactory chapter contains an outline of its contents, Bs well as the general results of what is therein illustrated and expressed in detail. ; • , \ . ' I have the honor to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant, Henry Youle Hind, M. A., ! Qeologitt and NaturaXiat to the Canadian Red River Exploring Expedition. To the Honorable T. J. J. Loranger, M.P.P., Provincial Secretary. INTRODUCTION. The exploration of the route between Fort William, Lake Superior, and Fort Garry, Red River , having been made in canoes, the description of the line of communication between those distant points necessarily refers to the available water facilities which were found to exist, so that in the following sketches of the topography of the country bordering the route, only as much is described as was actually visible from river or lake, when in canoe, or from the summit of hills which were ascended at the different portages and camping places whenever opportunity afforded. At the most, therefore, a very narrow Mrip of country is comprehended in succeeding delineations, but from the nature of the region through which the strip runs, it is highly probable that it represents the general character of a very large portion of the area between the valleys of Lake Superior and Winipeg, as far as the Lake of the Woods, and the right bank of the Winipeg River. The speed at which we were obliged to travel, in order to accomplish our voyage within a stated time, very considerably lessened the number of opportunities which might otherwise have been offered for acquiring more ample knowledge of many parts of the country, bidding fair lo reward a minute exploration. The distance between Fort William and Fort Garry is about 138 699 miles, and the time occupied in traversing this great extent of country was thirty-three days, including a stoppage of two days and a half at Fort Francis, one day at Garden Island, and two days at Islington Mission, Winipeg River; so that the time actually spent in canoe was twenty-seven and a ha.lf days, which gives an average of 25^ miles a day. This average refers solely to the different canoes I occupied at the several stages of the voyage, which were, in order : a five fathom north canoe, with the main party from Fort William to Fort Francis, a distance of 303 miles ; a small canoe, carrying three persons, in company with Mr. Dawson, similarly equipped, from Fort Francis to Islington Mission, 190 miles ; and a small canoe, alone, from the Mission to Stone Fort, Red River, a distance of 187 miles. The average daily progress being in the large canoe twenty miles, and in the small canoe forty-seven miles. But the average daily progress of the large canoes along the whole route was twenty-five miles. The valley of the Raministiquia, below the Grand Falls, con- tains an area of good land probably exceeding 20,000 acres. It will doubtless acquire much importance as a terminus of any line of communication, whether by boats or winter road, which may eventually be established between the valleys of Lakes Superior and Winipeg. From the prevalence of shoal water for a long distance in the Raministiquia, and the great length of the portages at the height of land, it may not happen that this route will be selected for improvement as a boat communication, but from the considera- tions which will soon be noticed. Fort William, and the valley in which it is situated, may become under any circumstances points of special interest. Arrow Lake, on the Pigeon River route, formerly pursued by the North-west Company, is within forty, and Gun Flint Lake within sixty miles of Point des Meu- rons, on the Raministiquia, as shown on the map. Between the Grand Falls of the Raministiquia and Fort Francis, a distance of 273 miles, very few areas of cultivable ]and occur on the water communication } but it is probable that 139 :ent two and the iays, >rage veral north ancis, rsons, ft Fort canoe, ance of e canoe s. But 5 whole a\ls, con- (0 acres. IS of any ,d, which »f Lakes Ace in the [he height )ected for jonsidera- [he valley imstances ion Rivet is within des Meu- and Fort cultivable jbable that many areas of limited extent might be found, if sought for, on the shores of the lakes and on the banks of the rivers. The country, as a whole, must be considered as a sterile waste, offering no inducements for settlement beyond those Tvhich a mining interest might foster, or small village stations on a line of communication create. The valley of Rainy River is by far the most important tract seen, and I do not think that the estimate of 220,000 acres of good land assigned to the British side in this report is too much. The islands in the Lake of the Woods offer some spots avail- able for cultivation, many of which are now occupied by Indians, who cultivate Indian corn, potatoes, squashes, and pumpkins. The Winipeg River, until within a few miles of its mouth, flows through a desolate and irreclaimable rocky waste, fur- nishing a very small supply of timber for lumbering purposes in proportion to its length of 163 miles. Small patches, varying from 50 to 300 acres of excellent drift clay, occur at and below the Islington Mission ; but within a few miles of the mouth of the river an extensive area of good arable land is to be found. These areas, both large and small, will possess only a local importance ; the country through which the Winipeg flows, the character of the river, with its rapids and cascades, having a fall of 333 feet, altogether preclude the hope of its being made available as a permanent means of communication with the valley of Lake Winipeg. The distance from the North-west corner of the Lake of the Woods to Fort Garry cannot exceed one hundred miles, while, by the Winipeg, the distance from the same point is 282 miles. Whatever may be the result of Mr. Dawson's exploration of the route between those two points, it is very probable that as a station on a winter route the North-west corner of the Lake of the Woods will occupy a very prominent position. Of the valley of Red River, I And it impossible to speak in any other terms than those which may express astonishment and admiration. 140 The description which I had read previous to my arrival there, certainly did not in any way prepare me for the magnifi- cent country at present occupied and controlled by those, whose interests, no one seeks to deny, have been opposed to settlement or communication with what may be termed the outer world. I entirely concur in the brief but expressive description given to me by an English settler on the Assiniboine, at the valley of Red ^iver, including a large portion belonging to its. great afQuent, is a ''paradise of fertility/' During my visit to Assiniboia, a district embracing the settle- ments on both rivers, I paid particular attention to the objections which have been urged against the climate and soil of the country with reference to agricultural operations, and 1 have no hesitation in saying that erroneous impressions respecting the available area of cultivable land, the soil, the crops, and the climate still exist, and find publicity. I do not wish it to be understood that these descriptive errors result from a determination to misrepresent facts, but arise either from unconsciousness of the true nature of existing phy- sical impediments to settlement, or a disposition to explain how those impediments were produced or may be remedied. I was frequently referred to the Big Swamp as forming an insurmountable barrier to the rearward progress of settlement from Red River. This Big Swamp I found to be maintained by a mill dam at its chief outlet ; and while reference was con- stantly made to the evil, the cause which produced it was ignored or really unknown. In suggesting to residents at Red River the drainage of the Big Swamp, two objections were urged ; the first, that its height above the river would not admit of drainage ; the second, that if drained, it would require expensive bridges to be erected over the gullies which would soon be formed by its waters seeking their outlet to Red River. The first objection was soon answered by my assistant, Mr. John Flemming, who ascertained, instrumentally, the relative heights of Big Swamp, the Prairie, and Red River, at the middle settlement. m ival ftifi- lose nent d. ;ivell ey of great settle- ctions of the ave no ng the id the 3 errors Lt arise ig phy- in how ling an ttlement lined by ras con- it was of the IS height )nd, that Ited over seeking ^ant, Mr. relative le middle 141 He found the elevation of the Swamp to be twenty-seven feet above the river level. Section No. 6 shows those rela- tions ; and I may here remark, that as far as my observations enabled me to form an opinion, all other swamps on the Assi- niboine, or on Red River, may with equal ease be drained. The second objection proceeded from a retired factor of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, and a member of the Board of Public Works at the settlement. He admitted the practicability of the measure, but stated that the gullies formed in the yielding clay of the prairie would require expensive bridges to make them passable for settlers, the cost of which might amount to two or three hundred pounds. I have no doubt that the swamp on the east side of the river would be as easily drained as the one to which I have referred at length. The origin of these swamps is, I think, simply explained in the following way : Red River occupies a trench which it has cut for itself about thirty feet below the level of the beautiful prairies through which it flows. Its banks are fringed with heavy timber for a depth of perhaps a quarter of a mile or more on one side or the other, and during the lapse of many years, occasional overflows have " silted up " the wooded banks for perhaps a foot above the level of the prairies, so that in some places the river flows for miles between banks which are a little higher than the prairies beyond them. When, therefore, a great flood occurs, as in 1826 and 1852, the prairies are flooded, and the low natural levee, on the imme- diate bank, prevents the return of the waters to the bed of the river, and forms a swamp. It is to be well observed that the Big Swamp did not assume its present formidable dimensions until afler the flood of 1852 ; and the construction of the mill dam at Mill Creek now eflec. tually prevents it from drying up, and aflfording many thousand acres of admirable pasture land to the public grazing grounds of Red River. I mentioned this impediment to the drainage of the Big Swamp to the owner of the mill, who is one of the most wealthy «■ '( V -P ■'■ :rtni" ff *a ^iwnw ■■*«; 142 and inflaential residents ; but he did not think the removal of the dam would assist in draining the swamp — '* it was too big." The summer climate of this region appears to be very well adapted for agricultural operations. The summer temperature is nearly four degrees warmer than at Toronto, as ascertained by a comparison of corresponding ob- servations. Indian corn, if properly cultivated* and an early variety selected, may always be relied on. The melon grows with the utmost luxuriance without any artificial aid, and ripens perfectly before the end of August. And yet with these natural and most truthful registers of cli- mate, we are accustomed to hear of late spring and early autumn frosts deplored, lamented, and held up as one of the great draw- backs of Red River. The opinions expressed at the settlement by different indivi- duals on the soil, climate, and natural productions of the country, are often of a very opposite character ; and I found invariably that descriptions and opinions were remarkably affected by the relation which the individual bore to the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company. In making these statements, I do not wish it to be supposed that any attempt was ever made intentionally to mislead, but the habit of decrying everything not connected with the Fur Trade, appeared to have been a second nature to many of the old resi- dents, whose interests are locked up in it. All kinds of farm produce common in Canada succeed admira- bly in the District of Assiniboia ; these are wheat, oats, barley, Indian corn, hops, flax, hemp, potatoes, root crops, and all kinda of common garden vegetables. The potatoes, cauliflowers and onions, I have not seen sur- passed at any of our Provincial Fairs ; an enumeration of the weight of some of these productions of the garden and farm will be found in the text, and numerous specimens accompany this report. The character of the soil in Assiniboia, within the limits of the ancient lake ridges, canoot be surpassed. It is a rich blacle r* 143 mould ten to twenty inches deep, reposing on a lightish coloured alluvial clay about four feet deep, which again rests upon lacus- trine or drift clay to the level of the water, in all the rivers and creeks inspected. I frequently examined the soil some miles distant from the rivers along my line of route, as shown on the map, and I inva- riably found the prairie portion to exhibit a uniform fertility. The area occupied by fertile prairies I visited and saw, cer- tainly exceeds 1,500,000 acres; and as will appear from an in- spection of the map of Minnesota, the greater portion of the rich and available prairie land in the valley of the Bed River lies within British territory, while the valley of the Assiniboine is wholly within it The altitude of the valley of the Red River above the sea is about 680 feet, or 320 feet less than the elevation given to it by high authority, and from which erroneous conclusions respecting its climate, in relation to agriculture, have been drawn. As an agricultural country, I have no hesitation in expressing the strongest conviction that it will one day rank amongst the most distinguished. The present state of society, and the condition of the people in the settlements, is far firom being a pleasing or encouraging subject. The European and Canadian element have been gradually di- minishing for years, and the half-breed population is apparently drawing closer to the habits and tastes of their Indian ancestryi That agriculture and all the simpler arts have been dib- oouraged, is but too apparent. The interests of the Fur Trade are necessarily opposed to the centralization and settlement of the half-breed and Indian hunters, and it is everywhere evident that these interests have been upheld at a great sacrifice of means, and by the practice of . far-seeing and skilful policy. Bed River has been settled for forty years, and now contains a population of 7,000 souls, yet no single branch of industry, common even in the thinly settled parts of Canada, is practised there. i 1 «v. • I I '4 [■■ i 144 Whatever efforts were made in times past, and there have been many, they have terminated in failure, and it is difficult to resist the impression that these failures were designed by some in authority. Such artifices appear to have been t! )ught necessary when the controlling authorities were weak, and indeed almost power- less, in the face of a strong but irresolute and uneducated people. The valley of the Red River is capable of supplying all the necessaries of life, with the exception of iron, for some years to come. The most important want is fuel, but there is much pro- bability that on the Upper Assiniboine and the Little Souris River, one of its affluents, tertiary coal, or lignite, will be found in available quantities. The whole question of a boat communication between Fort William and Red River will be fully discussed in the reports of my colleagues, but havl.ig enjoyed the opportunity of seeing the country between Crow Wing, in the State of Minnesota, and the settlements at Red River, open throughout the year, I may per- haps venture to introduce a few remarks with reference to a winter road on British territory. It is well known that many years since the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company commenced to cut out a winter road between Red River and York Factory, Hudson's Bay, a distance of perhaps 600 miles, with the view to admit of the transport of articles of export during the long winter months. The project, however, was abandoned, but the idea still remains strong in the mind of some of the settlers at Red River. A winter road from Fort Garry to the Lake of the Woods would not exceed 100 milts ; it is a route which is often travelled in the winter, and the cattle at Fort Francis were brought that way. Once on the Lake of the Woods, the road is open for 170 miles, requiring only two or three detours into the forest to escape that portion of Rainy River which never freezes. The other detours from lake or river would necessarily be at the portages, along the line of boat route, or near to them. sen sist 5 in hen wer- ated 145 The recommendation which a winter road, in conjunction with a summer boat communication, enjoys, is, that the poor or float- ing population of Red River would easily be induced to settle at the dilt'erent posts on the route, which would be necessary at stated intervals, with a view to accumulate supplies of provisions, hay, &Cm during the summer months. It would be merely trans- ferring their rude industry from the open prairies, where they are often compelled to live in misery during the winter, to a set- tled villt^e life which might soon become self-supporting, and continually assist in improving the means of communication. The following tables shew the respective lengths of different routes traversed, or which might be suggested, between Lake Superior an4 Fort Garry, Red River : I. The canoe route followed by the expedition from Fort William to Fort Garry 669 miles. II. Canoe route from Fort William, via Mille Lacs, to the north-west comer of the Lake of the Woods 431 « Road from the north-west corner to Fort Garry. .100 " Total 531 " III. Road from Point des Meuron, 10 miles from Fort William, to Gun Flint Lake, on the Pigeon Riv^r route, air line 58 ^' Boat route from Gun Flint Lake to north-west comer of the Lake of the Woods 296 " Road from north-west comer to Fort Garry. . . . • 100 ** Total 454 " IV. Winter road side by side with the last named route 454 *' «i I V. Point des Meurons to Gun Flint Lake, on Pigeon River route « 58 <' ^ X '3*' f ■( "•HMM 146 Boat route via the Winipeg to Fort Garry, in the event of a summer road not being at pre- sent practicable from Fort Garry to the north- west corner, Lake of the Woods 564 miles. Total , 622 " VI. Route from Fort Garry to St. Paul, Minnesota, 630 " Air line from Fort William to Fort Garry 377 « Difference between air line and route No. III. . . 77 " The country between Point des Meurons and Arrow Lake, or Gun Flint Lake, or even Lake Seiganagah, on the Pigeon River route, acquire great interest when viewed in connection with the facilities which already exist at Red Rifver for sup- plying without delay the material required to establish a boat communication on that route. The private freighters of the settlement could, and no doubt would, despatch their boats of four or five tons, fully equipped and appointed, to Gun Flint Lake (P. R. R.) or nenr it, if rea- sonable remuneration were guaranteed. The only point of pre- sent difficulty appears to lie in the communication between Point des Meurons and Gun Flint Lake, or perhaps even Arrow Lake, only 88 1 miles in an air line from that part of the valley of the Kaministiquia. But little reliable information is accessible concerning this tract of country. The experience possessed, when assisted by the means at the disposal of the private freighters of Red River, may render their services very valuable auxiliaries in opening a line of communi- cation without much present outlay. Their employment might be regarded as a necessary preliminary step towards establishing a permanent commercial connexion between Canada and the valley of the Red River. In conclusion, it affords me very great pleasure to have the opportunity of expressing sincere thanks to my assistant, Mr. John Fleming, whose zeal and industry never for a moment flagged from the day of our departure to the present hour. 'li lies. (( K Lake, >igeon ection r sup- aboat J doubt quipped if rea- ofpre- etween Arrow ie valley jcessible Is at the ler tbeir 30in\uni- It migbt labVisblng and the I have the Itant, Mr. moment )ur. 147 In addition to the duties to which I referred in my report from Fort Francis, Mr. Fleming levelled across the valley of Red River, from the Big Swamp to the Lake Ridge, while I was engaged on the Assiniboine, and all the views and sketches of forts, cascades, rapids, portages, churches and implements, are from ivir. Fleming's pencil. The maps, sections, diagrams, and sketches whieh accompany this Report are as follows : 1st. A topographical map of the wrhole country traversed, including the Assiniboine and Roseau Rivers, and a plan of Red River Settlement, on a scale of two miles to one inch. The authorities consulted in the construction of the geographi- cal portion of the map are : for the Pigeon River route, Rainy Lake, and the Lake of the Woods, the map of the Canadian Boundary Commission ; for the plan of the settlements on Red River I am indebted to the kindness of Mr. McTavish, the chief officer at Fort Garry. The survey of the settlements was made about ten years since by the Honorable Company's Surveyor. The soundings in Thunder Bay and the outline of the coast, and McKay's mountain range, are from Bayfield's chart. The route from Fort William to Rainy Lake, Rat Portage to the Stone Fort, part of Red River, the Valley of the Roseau and Rat River, the Assiniboine, the ancient ridges of Lake Wini- peg, and the whole of the descriptive outline of the country traversed, made or described in my report from Fort Francis, are the portions for which this report is responsible. For the elevation and length of each portage, I am indebted to Messrs. Dawson and Napier ; but the total rise and fall along the line of route has been made the subject of an independent calculation, as great difference of opinion is known to exist among practical engineers vkrith reference to the allowance which ought to be made in estimating the descent of water by the speed of its current. 2nd. A geological sketch of the whole country traversed within the limits of British territory : Mr. Murray, of the Pro- vincial Geological Survey, is the authority for the Valley of the Kaministiquia ; and for the region about Rainy Lake and the p' — ^^^^^°^^B«r 148 Lake of the Woods, Dr. Bigsby, Geologist to the Canadian Boundary Commission. Scale, 10 miles to 1 inch. 8rd. A map shewing the cultivable areas on the line of route and the approximative limits of the good lands in the valley of Red River, north of the 49th parallel. Scale 10 miles to 1 inch. 4th. A section of the whole route, on the scale of 10 miles to 1 inch. '% SECTIONS AND DIAGRAMS. Section "So. 1 — Oreat Dog Portage. •I «• 2— Ooaat of Lake Winipeg. «• '* 8— Bed River at the Stone Fort. - " 4 — Red Riyer near Mr. Ouan'e house. •< " 6— Red Riyerneor St Paul's Ohuroh. ** " 6— AoroM the Valley of Red Riyer. •' " 7— Stony Mountain. ** ** 8— Aaainiboine Riyer, Leayee Poit «' " 9- Scratching Riyer. •• •• 10— Roseau Riyer. •• •* 11— Rooks near the mouth of the Sennawa. M « 12 — Rook near Bonnet Portage. " " 18— Greenstone Conglomerate^ showing golacial furrowf. Jifo. 1 N 2- •1 8 M 4- M 6- M 6- Route by Superior City important, 9 — Distance between dividing ridges, 10 — Route from Valley of Lake Superior to that of Rahiy Lake in Canadian territory, 11 — Pigeon River Route, 18 — The Grand Portage, 14 — 2nd Portage to 12th Portage, 16, 18 •— Belle Portage leads over the height of land, 18 — Advantages of the Pigeon River Route, 19 — Current River, 20 — Character of the winter route of Indians to Great Dog Lake, 24 — A Road would save many miles of oanoe route, 25 — Height of Dog Lake and icngth of Portage, 26 --> Importance of Current River Route, 27 — - The Neepigon Route, 28 -~ The Outlet, 29 — The termi- nation in the Winlpeg River, 80. CHAPTER n. THE KAMINISTiaUIA ROUTE. THUNDER DAY TO GREAT DOG LAKE. Thunder Bay, 81 — Entrance to the Harbour, 82 — The Welcome Island, 88 — Channel of the River, 84 — Banks of the River, 86 — Miraion of the Imma- culftte Conception, 86 — McKay's Mountain, 87 — Maple on McKay's Moun- tain, 88 — The Yiilage at the Mission, 89 — Freezing and thawing of the River, 40 — Indian Corn, 41 — Limestone exists, 48 — Remains of extensive settlements, 44 — Vegetation, 45 — Rapid, 45 — The Grand Falls of Kaka beka, 46 — Height of, 47, 48 — Alluvial Valley, 49 — Vegetation of, 60 — Area of Cultivable Land in, 61 — Limit of good Land, 62 — Falls and Rapids, 68 — Vegetation poor, 64 — Burnt Forrest, 65 — The Great Dog Portage, 66 — View from, 56 — Physical structure of the Great Dog Moun- tain, 67 — Much good land on the flanks of the Great Dog, 58 — Track of a Tornado, 59 — Black Spruce Swamp, 59 — Labrador Tea Plant, 69 — Coal Wells in Moss, 69 — Good Road on the Qre;it Dug, 60 — Section of Great D> •; Portage, 60. 111 CHAPTER IIL GREAT DOG LAKE TO THE HEIGHT OF LAND. Area of Oreat Dog Lake, 61 — Vegetation, 61 — Depth of water in Great Dog Lake, 62 — Distance from Fort William, 68 — Former extension of, 63 — Oreat Dog Lake an old centre of communication and is connected with Mille Laos, 64 — Many other routes probably exists, 66 — Professor Keating speaks of these routes 88 years ago, 66 — Valley of Dog River, 67 — Banks alluvial, 67, 70 -~ Ancient Forest, 71 — Action of ice, 72 — Labrador Tea, 78 — Dam at mouth of Little Dog River, 78 — Climate, 74 — Action of ice, 74 — Prairie River, 76 — Sourcei* of Dog River, 76 — Height of Land Barrier, 77 — Prairie Portage, 78 — Height of Land Lake, 78 — Vegeta- tion of Prairie Portage, 79 — Height and Distances, 80, 81 — Temperature of Lakes and Rivers, 82. CHAPTER IV. THE HEIGHT OF LAND LAKE TO RAINY LAKE. Height of Land Lake, 83 — Savanne Lake, 83, 84 — Savanne Portage, 86 — Savanne River, 86 — Vegetation and Banks of the River, 87 — Mille Laos, 88 — Sail Rooks, 89 — Baril Lake, 90 — Ancient Line Forest, 90, 91 — Scenery of the Side Hill Path, 91 — Height of Brul6 Hill, 92 — Importance ' of the region about Mille Lacs, 93 — French Portage, 94 — Ancient Forest near Pickerel Lake, 96 — Vegetation of Portage de Pins, 96 — Scenery and Country about Sturgeon Lake, 100 — Cascades, of Sturgeon Lake, 101 — Island Portage, 102 — Nameaukan Lake, 103 — Rainy Lake, 108. CHAPTER V. RAINY LAKE TO THE MOUTH OF RAINY RIVER. Rainy Lake, surveyed in 1826, 104 — Description of Rainy Lake, 106 — Shores low and sterile, 106 — Height above the Sea, 107 — Temperature of, 108 — Period of freezing and thawing, 109 — Entrance into Rainy River, 110 — Description of Rainy River, 111 — Farming and Gardening operations at Fort Francis, 112 — Depth of Snow. 112 — Lac la Pluie Indians, 118 — Swamp In the rear of Rainy River, 114 — Area of available land, 114 —^ Rich vegetation of Rainy River, 116 — Extreme beauty of Rainy River, 117 — Soil reposes on clay, 117 — Indian enoampmerits, 117 — Heights of the Banks, 118 — Height of the water, 119 — Rapids of Rainy River, 120 — Water communication between Rainy Lake and the extremity of the Lake of the Woods, 120 — Underground houses, 121 — Indian Lodges, 122 — Ohar< acter of the Valley of Rainy River, 123 — Oliaraoter of the Valley near the Lake of the Woods, 124. a ai Ejaa mmmjomw rnm 162 CHAPTER VI. LAKE OF THE WOODS AMD THE "WINIPEG RIVER. Dimensiong and DiTisions of the Lake of the Woods, 126 — Distance of the North West corner from Red River, 126 — Scenery, 126 —- Effects of refraction, 127 — Profuse oonfervoid growth, 128 — Depth of water, 128 — Extraor- dinary temperature of the Lake, due to the "Weed," 129 — Orasshoppers seen, 129 — Fishing Ground 120 feet deep, 129 — Ice five feet thick forms, 129 — Refraction, 181 — Grasshoppers, 181 — Gale on the Lake, 182 — Garden Island, Indian Oorn cultivated ; Potatoes, Pumpkins, Squashes ; Senna Cherry ; Passenger Pigeon ; Hosts of Grasshoppers ; Ravagesof Grass- hoppers, noise of the jaws ; Indians indifferent to them, 184 — Shoal Lake* 136 — Distance of Sh(»al Lake from Red River, 186 —■ Length of a Degree* 187 — Island Scenery, 188 — Channels of the Winipeg, 189 — Magnificence of the Cascades, 140 — Character of the River, 141 — Rat Portage, 141 — View from a hill, 142 — - Character of the country of the Upper Winipeg, 142 — Islington Mission, 148 — Cultivable areas on the Winipeg, 148, 144 — Wild Rice Grounds, 146 — Game, 146 — The Pennawa River, 146 — Birds in the rice |;rounds, 146 — Failure of the rice, 147 — Failure of the fish, 148 — Failure of the rabbits, 149 — Painful consequence of these failures, 149. CHAPTER VIL I4AKE WINIPEG AND RED RIVER TO THE INDIAN SETTLEMENT. Altitude of Luke Winipeg above the Sea, 160 — Its length, breadth, and area, 161 — Lake Manitoba and Winnepagoose, 161 — Tributaries received by Lake Winipeg; The Canoe Route, 163 — Mouth of Red River, 168 — Im- portance of Lake Winipeg, 164 — Agriculture at the mouth uf the Winipeg River, 166 — Ancient beaoh of Lake Winipeg ; Boulders on the Cliffs ; Virginian Creeper ; vast number of wild fowl, 166 — Bar at the mouth of Red River, Netly Creek, 166 — Fertile character of the country about the Indian Miasionary Village ; Contract between the Indian Settlers at the Mission and the Savage Tribes of the Lower Winipeg, 167 — Table of distances and heig^its along the canoe route, 168. 153 PAET II. THE VALLEY OF RED RIVER NORTH OF THE FORTY-NINTH PARALLEL OF LATITUDE. The Red River of the iTor^A,— Qeneral description of Bed River within the terri- tory of the United States, 160 — Tributaries of Ked River, 160 — Length of Red River within the United States, 160. Phytieal Features of Red River from the Indian Missionary Village to the 49f A Para/Ze/.— Sugar Point; Limestone exposures, 161 —Maple, 162 — Banks of River, 162 — Physical features of Red River i r. d Rapids; Bars of Mud; Forest Timber; Rive ' Banks; extent and sicknass of Prairie, 163. Objects seen from the river, between the Indian settlement and the forty-ninth parallel. — Aspect of the river ; timber ; limestone ; whirlpool point ; massive layers of lime stone ; application of limestone houses on bank ; stone church *> mill creek; swamp ; area never flooded, 166 — Section of the river, No. 1, No. 2, 166 — Houses and windmills — The Assiniboine ; meanderings of Red River ; end of the settlement, 167. The west banks of Red River. "^The King's Road ; aspen woods ; scene south of Water li!ill Creek Woods of the Assiniboine ; of rural beauty of the scenery, 169 — Extraordinaiy aspect of the country ; aspect at sun rise, at noonday, at sunset, by moonlight, at night, 1*70 — Immensity of the prairies of Red River, 111. 771* Assiniboine River, Fort Garry to Prairie Portage. — The Assiniboine River, 1*72 — Ancient Lake Beaches, 1*78 — Breadth of the river ; Sturgeon Creek, 1*74 — Meanderings of the Assiniboine; heights of its banks, 170 — Re- markable windings, 1*76 — Lane's Pot ; section of the river bank, 17*7 — Settlement cease on the Assiniboine ; heavily timbered banks, 1*78 — River at Prairie Portage ; sketch of remarkable mud flats, 1*79 — Bones of elk, buffalo &o., 180 — arrangement of mud; sand common, 180 — Sugar made on the Assiniboine ; grape vine grow wild, 181. The prairies from Prairie Portage to Fort Garry. — Lake Manitoba, 182 — The buffalo huntors fail ; country beyond Prairie Portage, 188 — Country east of Prairie Portage; the Big Bridge ; limestone fragments, 188 — The White Horse Plain ; remarkable richness of the White Horse Plain ; grasshoppers, 184. Farm houses on the Assiniboine ; open and beautiful fairies ; prairie near Fort Oarry marshy, 185. The Roseau River ; Little and Big Rat River and the country watered by them. — Affluents of Red River within British territory, 186 — Channels of rivulota formed; the Big swamp ; affluents of the Assiniboine Rat River, 186. The Roseau, or Red River. — Course of the Roseau ; the long ridge, 189 — Timber on the Roseau beyond the ridgei, 190 — Marehes of the Roseau, 191 — Country *! ?ift::,itS!^-SrrBsrm^J^ 154 of the Roseau beyond the marshes, 192 — Oountiy about Roseau Lake ; water- fowl on Roseau Lake ; altitude of Roseau Lake ; Roseau Lake to the Lake of the Woods ; ten days on the road ; breadth of the Muskeg, 194 — dry prairie north of the crossing place — Still water Creek, Rat River, country between Rat River and the Lake of the Woods ; Little Rat River ; nine mile swamp ; nine mile swamp easily drained; French settlement, 196. PART III. GEOLOGICAL SKETCH OF THE CANOE ROUTE AND OF THE TALLET OF BED RIVER. The Kaministiquia to the height of land. — Mr. Murray, on the valley of the Eaministiquia ; the country above the Eakabeka Falls belongs to the Lau- rentian groups ; Huronian rocks east of Kakabeka falls ; First exposure of argillaceous schists, granite, and syenite ranges about Dog Lake; Valley of Dog River, 196. The height of land to Eainy Lake. — Portage du Baril; mica schist on gneiss; Graniie overflow at the head of Dor6 Lake ; Oranite bills, near Sturgeon Lake ; Dip and strike at the fifth rapid ; small anticlinal axes in Pine Lake ; Dip of schists ; Probable exposure of chloritic slate ; Tilled schists at the grand falls of the Nameaukan schists dipping in Ourres-joints, with quartz and felsphatic views ; Rocks dotted with beautiful specimens of, 19*7. Eainy Lake to Eat Portage ; Lake of the Woods. — Dr. Bigsby, on the geology of Rainy Lake ; his divisions of Rainy Lake, 198. Rainy River. — Debris of silurian limestone in the valley of Rainy River, 199 — Hornblende schists at the Rapid ; the Lake of the Woods ; Dr. Bigsby paper on, 200 — Polished surface of greenstone ; conglomerate with glacial furrows ; Direction of the axes of the enclosed pebbles ; Vertical section, 201. . The Winipeg River to Red River. — Large areas of intrusive granite on the Upper Winipeg ; The country characterized by great sterility, 202 — Mica schists, 208 — > Granite hills ; Conglomerate gneiss, 203 — Striped rocki 204 — Gneiss, 205 — Dykes, 206 — Bonnet Lake, needle refuses to act ; Cliffs of clay — Mica schist and gneiss, 206 — ' Laurentian group prevails from the hftghts of land to Lake Winipeg. XtmM/ontf.— First exposure, 206 — Limestone ; fit for building purposes, 206 — Second exposure ; Rock highly magnesian, 207 — Stony mountain, and quantity of Limestone for building purposes at Stony Mountain, 207. Drift and Clagt. — ^The Great Dog Portage ; Areas of drift ; Drift ; Clay in Rainy River ; Drift in the valley of Red and Assiniboine rivers ; Patches reported to be fit for bricks and pottery, 208. 155 The ancient Beachet and Ridge$ of Lake Winipeff. — Main beach sixty-sevea feet abore the prairie ; Stony Mountain ; Ridge at the Roseau forms a beautiful road for 100 miles; Marks the limit of the good land; The Coteau de Missouri ; Pembina Mountain 210 feet high ; The ancient beaches of Lake Winipeg limit the area of good land, .by far the greater part of the good land is within the limits of British America ; Small ridges ; Diameter of the small ridges, 209. Coal {Lignite) — Stated to exist on the Assiniboine and on the Little Souris or Mouse River; The coal tried at the settlement and found useful, 210 — Position of the coal, or lignite beds ; Presence of bands of Sioux Indians on the trail of the buifalo hunters prevented an exploration of the Upper Assiniboine, 201 — Small fragments of lignite in the mud and drift of tlie Assiniboine; Specimens of lignite, common in the settlements, anxiety of the settlers to know the nature and extent of the lignite formation, 212 — Neces- sity of a supply of fuel for increasing settlement, 212. Salt. — Brine Spring of Manitoba; Salt now made and sells at 168. sterling a bushel ; supply stated to be unlimited, 218. PART IV. 199 — paper on the l-Mlca rocki act; revuls 206 — n, and play In 'atohes CHAPTER I. Numbers and Origin of the Population of Bed River Settlement. — The census, 214 ; Increase of population slow ; Cause of this foreign element diminish- ing, 21S ; Decrease of Europeans and Canadians ; Increase in Half Breeds ; EfPects of this, 216 — Population according to origin ; Increase or decrease in thirteen years, 21 7 ; Increase of poverty ; Diminution of males ; Reason of this, young men go to the United States, 218 — Natives desire nationality, 21 9 > Industrial Occupations — The Farms and Farm houses of Red River. — Appear- ance of 223 swamps susceptible of drainage, 220 — Appearance of settlement at first sight pleasing; Indifference to the future which characterizes the people, 221 — Homesteads of hunters indicate slow decay, 222 — Farming slovenly; Cause of the negligence of the natives to be sought for apart from soil, climate, &n., 223 ; The farm not an object of exclusive attention Mr. Gowler's farm; Locks, yards, barns, bamhouses, 226 — Want of a market; Gowler's farming practice; Turnips, potatoes, period of planting; Indian corn, onions, melons; Gowler's cheese and tobacco ; Old associations ; Gowler's opinion of the Assiniboine, 22*7 — Gowler's stables, piggeries, (Sue. : Grasshoppers appeared, 228 — The Indian Missionary Village, 229 — The Rev. Mr. Cowley's garden, 229 — The mission farm ; Wheat, period of the growth of wheat, barley, &o. ; Potato crops, culinary vegetables ; The farm yard ; wild fruit, 230 — Crops at Prairie Portage ; Area to which the observations in the text extend, 281 — Indian corn; Mandau corn ripens r -^"iHii ■ ■■jiii' 156 well, 282 — Mr. Lane's opinion respecting Indian com, 284 — Mr. Flitt*s statement ; Cultivation of potatoes, 236 — Wheat on the White Horse Plain, 286 — Pierre Olaudier's farm, 236 — An immense Hard, 4' 10" in diameter ; Cultivation of peas, 236 — Tomatoes, 238 — Mignonette, 289 — Gardens at the fort, 240 — Melons, thirty from one seed, 240. CHAPTER II. Cultivated eropt and forest productions, — Indian com, 242 — Specimens of 243 — Forty bushels to the acre common on new land, 244 — Reason why a Half Breed would not cultivate wheat, 246 -^ Diseases of wheat uncommon ; No Hessian or wheat fly ; Grasshoppers destructive, 1817-1820 — Specimens of wheat, 246 — Barley and oats, 247 — Hay, 248 — Hops, 249 — Peas, 260 — Tobacco, 251 — Potatoes, 262 -- Turnips, 253 — Beets, &c., 268 — Sugars, 264 — Flax and hemp, 266 — Lumber ; Timber found only in narrow strips on the river ; Ridges afford aspen ; The Winipeg ; Fuel necessary ; Settlers anxious to find coal, 266 — Live stock, sheep diminishing ; loss of animals during the winter, 267. Agricultural Implements, 268 — Red River carts, 268 — The prairies offer facul- ties for rearing stock ; No market for beef, mutton, tallow, hides, &0. ; Reason for the neglect of stock raising ; Habits of the Half Breeds ; The introduction of Europeans required — Opinion of many at Red River > Red River will become a great grazing country when the fur trade relinquishes its influence. CHAPTER III. Religion and Education.— Heligious demonstrations in Red River ; Families and churches, 260 — Statistics and enumeration of schools, 261 — Statistics and enumeration of churches, congregations, ministers, stipends and means of support, 262. One Church of England, two Presbyterian, three Roman Catholic, 262 — St. John's Church, St Andrew's Church, the Parsonage House, St Andrew's Parochial school, 'J63 — The Indian church, Indian school, 264 — The Rev. Mr. Cowley ; novel Indian night bell, 265 — Contrast between the christianized Indians and the heathens ; Dog feasts within a mile and a half of Chris- tian congregations, 266 — Peguis, 267 — Baptisms at the mission, 268 — Prairie Portage, 269 — Mixed congregation at Prairie Portage, how clothed, 269 — Congregations at Red River ; Indications of wealth among the con- gregations, 270 ; The Presbyterian church and manse, 271 — The Roman Catholic church at St. Boniface; sweet toned bells, 272 — Convent and garden, 278 — Roman Catholic and Protestant churches, 274 — Admiration felt at the extent of the Home charities ; Nineteen clergymen of the Church of England sustained in Rupert's Land by the Home Societies ; little done by m the inhftbUants for 'tfie support of clergy, &e. ; Difficulty of the question, church services conducted in the English tongue ; Miesionaries should be independent, 2*76 — Charges to missionaries for freight in 1854 and in 1866, 276. CHAPTER IV. Trade and Occupations. — No distinct branch of trade exists in the settlement ; Orindstone imported, 276 — Windmills and watermills ; Articles of pottery imported, 277 — Growing trade between the settlement and St. Paul; Caravan met on the road to St. Paul, 277 — Caravan of nine carta ; alcohol imported, whisky imported, 278 — Caravan of six carts ; of sixteen carts ; of thirty carts, 279 — Merchants import from England, 280 — Freights, 281 — Sir George Simpson on the employment of Indians by freighters in 1844, 282. Tenure of Zand. — Land sometimes sold, title in form of a lease; conditions of sale ; Purchaser cannot sell or let land without the permission of the Com- pany, 283 — Many settlers do not possess a lease, 284 — No title to show , 284 — Company's register ; curious titles to farms, 286 — Squatters on Bed River; no payment for land contemplated, 286. Centvs Tablet. — No. 1, population ; No. 2, dwellings, live stock, <&c. ; No. 3, value of dwellings ; No. 4, value of implements, &c. ; No. 5, Census according to parishes ; No. 6, do do ; No. 7, Courts, offences, &o. CHAPTER V. The Half Breed Hunters of Red River. — Many of the Half Breeds fast subsiding to the condition of Indians, 287 — The summer hunt of the buffalo, 288 -~ Improvidence of the Half Breeds, 289 — Politeness of the French Half Breeds, 290 — Kind of aid required to ameliorate their condition, 291. The Buffalo Hunters in the Field — The Reverend Mr. Belcourt's description of the condition of some of the Half Breeds, 288 — The Buffalo hunters, 289 — Their organization, laws, and regulations, 289 — Power of the Half Breed Hunters ; their independence, 290 — What is the cause of their decline 291 — No signs of improvement visible, 292 — This decline observed by the Half Breeds, 298 — Their condition no criterion of the fitness of the country to support a prosperous people, 294. CHAPTER VI. The Climate of the Valley of Red River. — Climate ' excessive ;' spring and autumn frosts rare ; the melon and Indian corn excellent recorders, 296 — Summer at Red River nearly 4° warmer than at Toronto, 296 — Exploration of the richness of the prairies, 296 — Mean of spring and summer months nearly one degree higher at Red River than at Toronto, 297 — Table of comparison T^Sr ' » 158 of the meteorology of Red River with Toroato for oorreaponding monthn, 298 — National division of the seasons at Red River, 299 — Comparison between the annual mean at Red River and places in Europe, Quebec and Red River, 301 — Summer temperatures, 802 — Summer climate at Red River admirably fitted for agricultural purposes, 303 — Winter climate, cold intense, and of long duration, 304 — Salubrity of the climate, 306. Meteorological Register. — Daily register, monthly means, annual mean, monthly fall of rain and snow ; Progress of the seasons. CHAPTER VII. The approaches to the valley of Lake Winipeg — The route via St. Paul, Crow Wing, and Pembina, 305-814— Character of the country west of the Missis- sippi, and south of the Qreat Missouri Beod, 815-323. 159 (Copy.) RED RIVER EXPEDITION. MEMOBANDA OF INSTRUCTIONS. 1. The Expedition should ie placed under the sole control and management of Mr. Gl adman, and Messrs. Dawson and Napier should be instructed that henceforth that gentleman must be considered as the channel through which they will re- ceive instructions, and make their report to the Government. 2. That Mr. Gladman should repair to the Settlement to take charge of the party as early in the Spring as possible. 3. That in accordance with Mr. Gladmar s suggestions, Mr. Napier and his party should be withdrawn without delay, and that they should be instructed to return to Toronto ai^ soon as possible, coming back by way of Pembina and St. jpaul's. it being, however, understood that Mr. Dawson may retain Mr. DeSalaberry, should he think it necessary to do so. 4. Assuming that the proposed route from Fort (4ar; j to the Lake of the Woods, by Lac Platte, has been sufficiently explored during the winter months by Mr. Dawson and his party, Mr. Dawson's first duty in the Spring will be to explore the route between Rainy Lake and the Lac des Mille Lacs, following the line indicated on Mr. Dawson's map in the " supposed course of the discharge of the Lac des Mille Lacs ; " should the route in question be found after exploration to be practicable and de- sirable, it will be Mr. Dawson's next task to endeavor to ascer- tain the best means of communication e!^iev by land or water from Lac des Mille Lacs to Dog Lake. 6. Should it be found, however, that the proposed communi- cation between Rainy Lake and the Lac des Mille Lacs is impracticable, Mr. Dawson will proceed at once to examine the " Old North West Route " between Lac La Croix and Lake Seiganagah, and will then endeavor to ascertain the best means of communicating between the last named Lake and Fort William. '^^T r ir^'^-^^'-^^'^'^ 160 6. When in possession of the result of Mr. Dawson's explora- tions, above indicated, between the two routes from Rainy Lake and Lake Superior, &c., the Government will be better enabled to decide between the two routes from Rainy Lake to Lake Superior, viz : that recommended by Mr. Dawson and laid down upon his map, and the " Old North West Route.** The foregoing suggestions are respectfully submitted by the undersigued. (Signed,) T. J. J. Loranger, Stcrrtary, (Copy.) Secretary's Oppice, Toronto, 30lh January, 1858. Sir, — Adverting to your letter of the 14th inst., I have the honour to transmit to you herewith for your guidance a copy of a memorandum of instructions approved by His Excellency the Governor General in Council, on the subject of the Red River Expedition under your charge. You. will have the goodness to communicate to Messrs. Dawson and Napier a copy of these instructions for the guidance of their future movements. Mr. C. DeSalaberry, who is about to return to the Expedition party, will take charge of any letters you may desire to send by him. I am directed to add that should you or Mr. Dawson, or the officer for the time being in charge of the Exploring party deem it desirable, upon further information, to make other explora- tions than those indicated in the instructions, he shall be at liberty to do so. I have, &c. (Signed,) l^, J. J. Loranger, Beeretarjf. George Gladman, Esq., Rossin House, Toronto. im Port Hope, 6th Febraary, 1858. Sir, — As it has been determined by the Honorable Executive Council, that I should repair to the Red River Settlement to resume charge of the Expedition party there, as early in the spring as possible, I consider it necessary that preparations of men, canoes, and other materials, should be made at Fort Wil- liam, so that no detention may take place when I shall arrive there. I therefore propose to send a messenger thither next week, with instructions to my assistant, who is passing the winter at Point Menson, near Fort William. I shall be happy to receive your instructions relative to Sir George Simpson's letter, and the receipt for £500 which I had the honor to place in your hands. I have the honor, &c., (Signed,) Geo. Gladman. The Hon'ble T. J. J. Loranger, Provincial Secretary. .p' kry. (Copy.) Hudson's Bay Housb, Lachine, 26th January, 1858. My Dbar Sir, — I have to acknowledge receipt of your letter of 21st inst., covering a draft on the Molson Bank for the sum of $3,289 20c. in payment of accounts against the Cana- dian Surveying party, employed at Red River, for supplies by the Hudson's Bay Company to the amount of $520 52c., and by Mr. MoDermot to the amount of $2,762 68c. I now hand receipts for both sums, that for Mr. McDermot's account being in duplicate, in order that you may be enabled to transmit one to him at Red River. I shall be glad to receive payment of Mr. McDermot's second account as soon as the necessary vouchers may reach you. L n» 162 I am obliged by your offer to forward any letters I may have for Red River, by the hands of Mr. DeSalaberry, but need not (rouble you in that way, having sent my packet by mail a few days ago. I, however, enclose a letter to Mr. McDermot, ad- vising him of tiie partial payment of his account, which you will perhaps do me the favor to transmit to Red River. I hand herewith an order on chief factor William Mactavish, at Fort Garry, for the sum of J&500 in the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's notes, to be applied to the service of the Canadian Sur- veying party at Red River. I am authorising the advance of funds as a matter of accommodation contrary to our usual routine, which is to require the deposit of the funds at this establishment before giving an order on Fort Garry. In order to guard against accident or difficulty hereafter, I should feel obliged by your obtaining for me an acknowledg- ment of this sum from some member of the Government, so that when the funds are voted by Parliament, there may be no question as to their liability to repay the Company for this advance. Believe me, My dear Sir, Yours very faithfully, (Signed,) Gbo. Simpson. ToRONTD, 2nd February, 1858. Received from the Hon. Hudson^s Bay Company, by the bands of Sir George Simpson, an order on William McTavish, Esq., for the sum of five hundred pounds sterling, to bo paid to my order, at the Red River Settlement, in the notes of the Company — said amount of five hundred pounds sterling to be repaid to the Company at their office at Lachine by the Gov- ernment of Canada, out of the appropriation that shall be made by Parliament for account of the " Red River Expedition." (Signed,) Gborob Gladman. 163 (Copy.) Secretary's Office, Toronto, 23rd February, 1858. Sir, — His Excellency the Governor General has had before him in Council your letter of ths 5th inst., proposing to despatch a messenger to Fort William with instructions to your assistant respecting the preparations necessary with a view to your resuming charge of the Red River Expedition in the coming spring, and also requesting instructions relative to an order for £500 sterling, given to you by Sir George Simpson, payable at Fort Garry in notes of the Hudson's Bay Company, for the accommodation of the Exploring party. I have to acquaint you in reference thereto that His Excel- lency has been pleased to authorize you to send a messenger to Fort William as proposed, and also to allow you to avail yourself for the purposes of the Expedition, of the sum of £500 sterling, placed at your disposal by Sir George Simpson, giving that gentleman your receipt for the amount. I have, &c., (Signed,) T. J. J. Loranoer, I Secretary, (Copy.) Red River Settlement, 18th March, 1858. Sir, — ^I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter dated 80th January, Toronto, enclosing me an order signed Mr. McDermot, for the sum of two hundred and fifly pounds currency, and also a copy of instructions from the Pro- vincial Secretary, directing me and my party to return to Toronto via Pembina and St. Paul's, with the least possible delay. In compliance with these instructions, I made preparations to leave this by dog sleds on the lOth inst. ; owing, however, to the late heavy rains, and total disappearance of the snow, as "*^^gaigjwn""' '" ''ii** " m"r'7iKri7iiif»nm^ 164 well as le rsaf^^ condition of the rivers and Muskeys tra- velled )v t e \\..iter route, has been rendered impracticable for the i» *iinc:ei of the season. I s. : 1; ih lelDro be obliged to remain here until such time as '.'■ jcjj i y to Crow Wing is practicable with horses, which I an: 1 'i»a} '-'. about the ro sdle of April, and every arrange- ment . ' : '/ei?i ^-ade for st», *'ng as soon as the state of the roads w^'- r'ofs'-'jiu I have, &c., signed,) W. H. E. Napier. George Gladh.an, Toro^' >. (Copy.) Port Hope, Canada West, 24th March, 1858. Sir, — The question of opening a line of communication be- tween Lake Superior and th6 Red River, is assuming an aspect of so much greater importance than heretofore, that I trust you will excuse my presuming to offer a few more observations on the subject. From a careful consideration of the two routes, the one by the Kaininistiquia and the other by the old north-west line by Pigeon River, mentioned in my report to the Hon. Provincial Secretary, of the 3rd November last, I am led to the conclusion that the latter must eventually be decided upon as the best, as it possesses the advantage of good navigable waters, less land carriage between the height of land and the Lake of the Woods, and safety in either boat or canoe ; in fact it is the best wafer communication that has hitherto been met with by myself or my Indian guides, during a long experience in various parts of the country. The difficulties either way are considerable certainly, but not insuperable to Canadian energy and enterprise — on the con- tiary, I feel confident that this undertaking can be speedily 165 it not con- jedily accomplished if proper measures be taken, and the requisite means be applied to it. The first difficulty to be encountered is the formation of a road from the Kaministiquia to the waters flowing towards Lake Winipeg and the Hudson Bay, the length of which would not exceed 60 miles. There would then be a water communication of about 240 miles, requiring some im- provement, although the land carriage or " portaging " is less than three miles ; and lastly there would be a land road of from 90 to 100 miles, to be made from the Lake of the Woods to Fort Garry, the present capital of Red River. This last road is so desirable to the inhabitants of Red River, that we may safely rely upon their assistance in its formation. They perceive the advantage it would be to them if they had only 100 miles of cartage distance to the Lake of the Woods, instead of 700 miles to St. Paul's, in the transport of their sup- plies ; besides the earlier period of the year at which their supplies would reach the settlement. The 60 miles of road re- quiring to be made at the eastern terminus of the line being within Canadian limits, accessible with facility from Lake Supe- rior, and therefore within the reach of our home population, would be constructed before the expiration of the Hudson's Bay Company's lease, in 1859. My own observations of the north-west shores of Lake Supe- rior, lead me to think that the entrance of the Fort William or Kaministiquia River, presents the most favorable point from which to commence this great link in the chain of our Canadian internal communication. It is accessible in steamers and other lake going vessels, by which any amount of materials and sup- plies may be forwarded as found requisite. There are, how- ever, very few inhabitants settled on the banks of that river, and looking upon that station as the key to the whole of the British north-west possessions, I feel that I cannot too strongly urge upon the Canadian Government its immediate occupation. This may be effected without any great outlay, or cumbrous machinery ; that is to say, by simply employing a surveyor under Government authority, to lay out one or more townships and inviting settlers. During the past four months I have had " "^Trsur^*^*^'^' ,» 166 numerous applications from mechanics and others to join any yiarty that rnay be sent to those countries next summer ; and I have no doubt whatever, if the system of free grants to actuail settlers were adopted, a numerous population would soon be located there. In the report of the canoe route by Professor Hind, recently published, it is stated that the arable lands in the valley of the Kaministiquia at the Lake Superior terminus (of the line cf northern communication) is about 20j000 acres, that is to say, between Fort William and the Kakabeka Palln. Thus wo have ample space, and I think it will be obvious to you that a large settlement may be made at Fort William, wl.ich cannot fail to be attended with many important advantages to Canada, not only as regfirds the line of communication whioh we are now seeking to establish, but also as it will affect Canadian com- merce with that Vii^i territory of the north, in years to come. The lands through wbicli, in the course of our operations, the exploring party has ht-^^ to pass, being Indian property, the necessity of making sorae arrari<^ements with the tribes to which they belong becomes immediately apparent, and the Govern- ment will, no doubt take this into consideration, in order that measures may be devised to prevent difficulties and collisions. I havo the honor respectfully to remain, Sir, Your obedient humble servant, (Signed,) Geohqe Gladman. To the Honble. The President of the Council. 167 lat (Copy.) Toronto, 26th March, 1858. Sir, — Permit me again to offer a few remarks, relative to the correspondence between the British Colonial Office and Mr. Shepherd, on the affairs of the Hudson's Bay Company. In Mr. Shepherd's letter to Mr. Labouchere, of 21st January, 1858, he observes, " it is, however, right to notice, that the " territories mentioned as those that may probably be first de- " sired by the Government of Canada, namely, the Saskatche- " wan and Red River districts, are not only valuable to the ** Hudson's Bay Company as stations for carrying on the fur " trade, but that they are also of peculiar value to the Company " as being the only source from which the Company's annual " stock of provisions is drawn, particularly the staple article of " Pemican, a regular supply of which is absolutely necessary " to enable the officers of the Company to transport their goods " to the numerous inland and distant stations, and to feed and " maintain the people, both Europeans and Indians, stationed *' thereat. It is proper therefore that I should draw your atten- " tion to the fact, that the ultimate loss- of those districts would " most probably involve the Hudson's Bay Company in very " serious difficulties, and cause a great increase of expense in " conducting the Trade." The object of Mr. Shepherd, in the foregoing statement, ap- pears to be to induce a belief that the Company would sustain an immediate pecuniary loss, by the occupation of the Red River and the Saskatchewan districts as a portion of Canada, and under its jurisdiction, and that by reason of the Company being deprived of the power to trade or buy Pemican fri)m the hunters, they would be placed in circumstances of difficulty and expense. It need scarcely be observed that the object of immigrants into that country, from Europe, Canada, or other places, being settlement and the cultivation of the soil, their farming opera- tions could not materially interfere for some years to corne with the providing of the staple article of *' Pemican " by the Hud- -■s^fga^csiir-~ 168 son's Bay Company, upon which so much stress is laid by Mr. Shepherd. If my understanding of the question is correct, the desire of Canada is, the extinction of the monopoly, or exclu- sive rights of the Company, in every portion of territory under Canadian rule, and the admission of the people of Canada to carry on business operations at Red River, the Saskatchewan, or any other portion of British North America, as freely and as unrestrainedly as they may do in Toronto or Montreal. It is not I presume the desire of Canada to exclude or prevent the Hudson's Bay Company from carrying on their commercial transactions at the K d River or the Saskatchewan, as freely as they now do at Lachine. Equal rights as British subjects and merchants is all that is contended for by Canada, and as Canada does not seek to deprive the Company of any of their establishments or possessions in the Saskatchewan or Red River districts, there is no good reason for supposing that the Com- pany will in any way be debarred from providing as much Pemican as they may think necessary for carrying on their trade as heretofore. It is evident many years must elapse before the cultivable prairie lands will become so occupied by settlers as to interfere materially /ith the trading of provisions from the hunters at Saskatchewan, and when that time arrives, domes- ticated animals will take the place of the buffalo. The question of pecuniary compensation, can, as I conceive, have reference only to the right of soil which the Company claim to possess under their charter or by purchase from the Earl of Selkirk. The license of exclusive trade with the Indians by the Com- pany being limited to a certain time only, and those territories being reserved to be formed into Colonies by Her Majesty's Government whenever it may be considered proper to do so, ( apprehend the rights of the Company will cease as soon as the present lease expires, and other government than that of the Company is established. Another remark made by Mr. Shepherd is this : — *'The Com- ** pany assume that the Government (Canadian) will be respon- ** sible for the preservation of peace, and the maintenance of 169 Com- [tories |esty's so, I IS the )f the ICom- [spon- ice of " law and order in all the territory ceded to them, and that " they will prevent lawless and dishonest adventurers from in- " fringing, from thence, the rights of the Company over the " remaining portions of their territory." In these observations, the Hudson's Bay Company assume to treat for the cession of certain territories. As a Trading Company of British Merchants, they assume that the Canadian Government will maintain law and order in the territories ceded to them by the Company, which territories yet, in point of fact, belong to the natives. It may be well here to consider what the present government of the Red River and the Sas- katchewin districts really is. So far as the uninitiated know of the matter it is generally understood to be this : A Governor and a Council appointed by the Hudson's Bay Company and holding their meetings at the Company's Forts in the Red River Settlement, form the entire executive administration. The Governor being also the only legal functionary in the set- tlement, the Company's legal adviser, the Judge, the Directors of the Company (in London) and their representative, the Governor of Rupert's Land (residing for the most part at La- chine) make all the appointments. Hence it devolves chiefly on '* the Governor and Council of Assinniboia," as it is in Hud- son's Bay form expressed, to preserve the peace, and to main- tain law and order in those districts. Can that government, appointed although they be by the Company, and with all the influence of the Company to support them, can they prevent adventurers (I will not call them " lawless and dishonest," for they are chiefly natives seeking to earn an honest livelihood in their own land) from infringing* upon the assumed rights of the Company over the other portions of what they are pleased to call Rupert's Land ? They cannot, and it would be clearly an impossibility for any Government established / Canada to prevent natives of that country, or in fact any others who might choose to do so, from trading in that extensive territory, wher- ever they might find it most advantageous to do so. Nor can I suppose that a Canadian Government would for one moment under any circumstances entertain such an idea. mmi 170 As is well known, the Hudson's Bay Company have for years past held leases from Government of the King's Posts and Seigniories in Lower Canada. Have they been able to pre- vent intrusion on the Queen's domain and infringements of the rights given by these leases ? No ! certainly not, and what has been their remedy ? Recourse by civil action to the Courts of Canada whenever they were disposed to try the question. And so it will and must be in the districts of Red River, when other laws than those of the Hudson's Bay Company shall have been there established. Whatever the form of government that may be decided upon, the preservation of peace and the maintenance of law and order will of course be its legitimate objects. There need, however, be no apprehension of any disturbance of the peace, except from the officers or servants of the Company who may take upon themselves to determine (as in the case of Mr. Bannatyne) what is an infringement of the Company's rights, or an intrusion on the Company's undefined boundary line, according to their own ideas. It is, therefore, in my humble opinion, much to be desired, even for the sake of peace and good order, that the whole trade should be free and open to all British subjects. That it would be requisite, in such case, to place the trade under certain restrictions and enactments (as to the introduction of ardent spirits, for instance) is clear, but that all in the terri- tory, from the Rocky Mountains to the Hudson's Bay, whether servants of the Hadson's Bay Company or not, whether at Red River or on the shores of Hudson's Bay, should be amenable to the jurisdiction of the Red River Government, is equally clear, and a measure of necessity and good policy. As regards the governing of these territories from or by Ca- nada, the difficulties do not appear greater than they are at the present moment, under the rule of the Company. The gentle- man who fills the office of Governor of Assiniboia is a lawyer from Montreal, and it will have been observed by my previous remarks, that the whole machinery of his government consists of a Council acting under instructions from Lachine or from London. If the Company can govern these districts in a mode in so simple, there is no question but that the Canadian Govern- ment can devise one equally as simple, or one more efficacious and more satisfactory to the mass of the people, especially when the line of intercommunication between Lake Superior and the Red River will be less difficult than it now is. If the lands on the borders of Lake Superior, on the Rainy River, and on Red River, were surveyed and laid out in Townships for settlement, under the authority of the Government, and gradual occupation promoted by the opening out of a practicable road, the appoint- ment of magistrates, and the establishing of a municipal code similar to that of Canada, conferring on tho inhabitants the rights of election in their several municipalities, would be all that the state of the country would require for several years to come, I am confident I speak the sentiments of the Red River people when I say their chief desires are, a voice in their own government, and freedom to trade in the best markets within their reach. I venture to offer these few remarks, suggested by the local knowledge and experience acquired in the several positions in which I have been placed, and submitting them to your favorable construction as to the motives by which I am actuated. I have the honor, &c., (Signed,) George Gladman. To the Honourable The President of the Council. ..f yit- 3y Ca- at the rentle- lawyer revious consists 3r from a mode (Copy.) Toronto, 9th April, 1858. Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that, in compliance with your instructions to make immediate arrangements tor proceed- ing to Red River at the opening of the navigation, to convey supplies, men, and canoes to Mr. Dawson, and to continue the exploration of the country west of Red River, I have engaged the services of Mr. James A. Dickenson, C. E., as surveyor, and Mr. John Fleming as his assistant. -..n-" iri>! 172 In a former communication I referred to Mr. Dickenson's standing as an Engineer and Surveyor, and enumerfi*' d the references which he is ready at any time to submit. I ; will, perhaps, be sufficient here to mention that Mr. Dickenson is an Engineer of ten years standing, a Graduate of Trinity College, Dublin, and that he accompanied the exploring expedition of 1857 to Red River, in the capacity of Chief Assistant to Mr. Napier, winning by his industry, talent, courage, and eminent trustworthiness, the esteem and confidence of all members of the expedition. Of Mr. John Fleming's excellent capabilities and industry I have already spoken in my Report, dated 7th February, and yesterday Mr. Fleming completed the series of sketches, fifty in number, alluded to in that report, thus closing his connection with the expedition of 1867, and assuming the office of assistant to Mr. Dickenson in the one now in process of organization, under such stipulations as will prove most advantageous to its general interests. Mr. Glad man informs me that the canoes he brought with him to Sault St. Marie, on his return from Red River, are not in a condition to make the journey from Fort William to Fort Garry. It will therefore be advisable to secure two good north or three bastard canoes, before leaving for Lake Superior, as it would not be judicious to rely upon the probability of obtaining canoes from the Hudson's Bay Company's stores at Fort William. In order, however, to ensure the good will of the gentlemen in charge of the posts, I beg leave to suggest that a letter should be written for me to take to Sir George Simpson or Mr. Finlay- son, at Lachine, requesting either of those gentlemen to favour me with a document addressed to the gentlemen in charge of the posts I may visit, containing instructions to offer every facility in the prosecution of the exploration. 1 have the honor to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) Henry Y. Hind. The Hon. T. J. J. Loranger, Provincial Secretary. 173 ion's L the will, is an ilege, on of 3 Mr. linent eis of [ND. (Copy.) Secretary's Office, Toronto, 14th April, 1858. Sir, — I am commanded by His Excellency the Governor General, to state to you for the information of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, that it is the intention of the Canadian Government to send another expedition this year, into the country in the neighbourhood of the Red River Settlement, for the purposes of exploration. 2. The expedition will be divided into two parties, of which one will be under the direction of Professor Hind, and the other under that of Mr. Dawson. Both of these gentlemen served with the expedition last year, and the latter is still at Red River. 3. The operations of Mr. Dawson and his party, probably about twenty men, will be confined pretty much to the same ground as last year, namely, the route from Fort William to Fort Garry ; while the operations of Professor Hind and his staff, will extend to the country west of Red River and Lake Winipeg, and below the Rivers Assiniboine and Saskat- chawan, as far west as " South Branch House." 4. His Excellency desires to bespeak through you for the expedition this year, the same courteous assistance for the officers and servants of the Company on the line of the proposed expedition, which was so readily proffered last year, and which was (His Excellency is informed) so freely extended to all the members of the expedition. 6. This letter will be delivered to you by Professor Hind, who is about to repair to Montreal on business connected with the expedition. 6. Professor Hind would be glad to be favored by you with a general letter, addressed to the officer in charge of the Com- pany's posts, on the route about to be visited by him, request- ing them to promote, as far as in their power, the general objects of the expedition under his charge. His Excellency desires me to state that he trusts it will be in your power to gratify k •> -^ |. -^-tumm I ' - 174 Mr. Hind's wishes in this matter, as he doubts not it would very materially advance the object of the expedition. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) T. J, J. Loranogr, Seoreiary. Sir George Simpson, Governor Hudson's Bay Company, Hudson's Bay House, Lachine, Montreal. (Copy.) Hudson's Bay Housb, Lachine, 23rd April, 1858. Sir, — I have the honour to acknowledge your communication, dated 14th instant, informing me by command of His Excel- lency the Governor General, of the intention of the Canadian Government to send another expedition this year to the neigh- bourhood of the Red River Settlement, for the purposes of ex- ploration, and requesting for the expedition the same assistance from the Hudson's Bay Company, as was rendered to its mem- bers last season. In reply, I beg to state that your letter was delivered to me in person by Professor Hind, to whom I intimated verbally, that it afforded the Hudson's Bay Company, at all times, great pleasure to render good offices to the Government of Canada, and that such assistance as could bo given at the Company's posts to tho expedition under his command, would bo freely rendered. I have already furnished Professor Hind with the letters of in- introduction to tho Hudson's Bay Company's officers, which you apply for, and given him the necessary authority to obtain canoes, and other supplies at Sault St. Mario and Fort William. The usual equipment of tent and other camp appointments for his use while travelling in the interior, has been provided from the Company's store. ould lary. 175 Begging you will assure His Excellency the Governor General that the Hudson's Bay Company will forward the objects of the exploring expedition with the same cordiality with which they are ever anxious to co-operate with the Government of this Province, I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) G. Simpson. The Honorable T. J. J. Loranger, Provincial Secretary, Toronto. (Copy.) Secretary's Office, Toronto, 27th April, 1858. Sir, — I have had the honour to receive, and lay before His Excellency the Governor General, your letter of the 23rd instant, in reply to mine of the 14th instant, and am directed by His Excellency to thank you for your acts of courtesy to Mr. Hind, and for the promises of the co-operation of the Hudson's Bay Company, in pomoting the object of the expedition, during the present year, to the neighbourhood of the Red River Settlement. I havn the honour to be. Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) T. J. J. Loranger. Sir George Simpson, Governor Hudson's Bay Co., Hudson's Bay House, Lachine, Montreal. 176 if (Copy.) Secretary's OFriCE, Toronto, 14th April, 1858. Sir, — In my conversation with you last week I intimated to you that His Excellency the Governor General in Council deemed it advisable, with a view to reduce as much as possible the expenditure of the Red River Exploration party for the cur- rent year, to dispense with your services as general conductor of the expedition. 2. I have now to notify you, formally, that your official connexion with the expedition will terminate on the 22nd inst. 3. His Excellency has further been pleased to dispense with the services of all those individuals connected with the exploring party who were under your more immediate control, and whom Mr. Dawson may not require, and specially direct to remain with him. 4. You will lose no time in notifying these gentlemen accordingly, 6. I have further to inform you that Professor Hind, who is about in a few days to leave for Red River, has been directed to take possession of the canoes and other articles, as well as any provisions belonging to the Government, either at Colling- wood or Sault St. Marie. You will therefore give any direc- tions that may be necessary for the transfer of the things above mentioned to Mr. Hind. 6. You will also furnish me with a complete inventory of any other Government property connected with the expedition showing where and in whose custody it is. 7. It is of course desirable that all accounts connected with the expedition, while under your management, should be closed and audited as speedily as possible. I have the honor to be, sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed) T. J. J. Lofanoer. George Gladman, Esq., Port Hope. 177 158. mated ouncil 3ssible le cur- ductor official id inst. se with ploring Iwhom remain Qtlemen who is directed well as Colling- y direc- ts above y of any pedition^ ed with De closed UER, (Copy.) Secretary's Office, * Toronto, 14th April, 1858. Sir, — During the last week 1 communicated to you, ver- bally, instructions in reference to the proposed expedition to the neighborhood of the Red River during the present year. 2. It has been acceded, as you are aware, with a view to keep down as much as possible the expense of the expci'^diture this year, to dispense with the services of Mr. Gladman as its general manager. 3. The exploration party this year will consist of two divi- sions, one to be placed under your direction and control, and the other under the direction of Mr. Dawson. 4. His Excellency in Council has been pleased to place under your charge the Topographical and Geological portion of the exploration, respecting which full instructions will be given in another letter, while Mr. Dawson will continue to perform the same duties as last year, viz., those of Surveyor, &c. 5. The estimate of the probable expenditure of the expedi- tion, submitted by you on the 6th inst., was laid before His Excellency in Council, and has been approved of by them, and I have accordingly now to direct you to be guided as much as possible by that estimate in engaging your aasistants, hiring your men, as well as in the other necessary exjr »'ditures of the e^'pcdition. 6. It is hardly necessary to say that His Excellency relies upon your exercising a due economy in all matters connected with the expedition. 7. As soon as you have complete! your contemplated party, you will furnish me with a schedule, giving the names of all the persons composing it, and stating their rates of pay, and the dates from which their pay is to commence. Such a schcduln will be necessary to supply the Auditor with the me^ns of auditing your accounts. 178 8. Having organized your party, you will lose no time in repairing with them to Red River, taking with you the supplies (referred to in the estimate) required for Mr. Dawson. 9. On your way to the Red River, you wjll take possession of the canoes, provisions, and other articles belonging to the Gov- ernment, either at Collingwood or Sault St. Marie. These, with the men intended for Mr. Dawson, you will deliver over to that gentleman when you meet him, either at Red River or on his way back. 10. You are to consider all the articles and materials of any description belonging to the Canadian Government, connected with the late expedition, as available for the purposes of the present expedition, and you and Mr. Dawson may therefore divide them between you in whatever way you may think most advantageous. Such articles, if any, as may not be required by either of you, should be left in the custody of some trust- worthy person to await the orders of the Government. 11. As soon as you shall have put Mr. Dawson in possession of the men and canoes intended for him, each of you will be held separately responsible for the expenses of his own party. You will therefore be careful to keep an accurate account of your expenditure. 12. The Auditor General of Public Accounts will give you any information you may require as to the most convenient mode of making out and furnishing your accounts, &c. 179 EsTiMATR of the cost of the Red River Expedition, for the year 1858. Mb. Dawson. Mr. Hind. Returning. Going. 1. Two Nortli Canoes with 12 Cauglinawaga Indians, and 2 Frencl) Can-idians, at 51 per day— lialf the expense to be charged to each Expedition, an it serves tlio object of both equally, for a period of 2 months 12 men for 6 months for Mr. Dawson Provisions for Mr. Dawson Provisions for Mr. Hind Instruments for Mr. Hind- Levels, Chains, Thermometors, Compasses, &c Photographic apparatus complete Water-proof boxes Stationery Medicine Chest Presents for Indians at the Lake of tho Woods— half to be charged to each party- Presents, cuiisisting of Tea, Tobacco, Hooks, &c Balarios—Mr. Dawson, at $0 per diem— 7 months " —Mr. Hind, do. do. -8 do Surveyor to Mr. Hind's party, at S\ per diem— 8 months Assistant to Surveyor, at £20 per month— 8 months Photographer to Mr. Hind's party First Assistant to Mr. D^wson 2ndand3rd do. do Beturning expenses of Mr. Dawson's party from Superior City tt Toronto, by Stcamerand Rail Further expenses of Mr. Hind's party in exploring the region about Manitoba!!, and in transacting business at Red River:— 7 Horses 8 Carts, with hire of men, (8 men) Feed for entire party, at 30 cen's per day, for 90 days Return by Winter route via Lake of tho Woods and Fort William Camp equipage, Ammunition, &c 900 ()0 tj;j() 00 MM 00 420 00 420 00 2160 00 m 00 700 00 260 00 200 00 30 00 30 00 20 00 so 00 50 00 1200 00 1440 00 900 00 640 00 640 00 Deduct sale of 7 Horses at a los»i of 2U per cent. Total Expense of Mr. Dawson's party, !'or 1858, after leaving Red River Total expense of Mr. Hind's party, going to Red River, Exploring and returning Total cumbinod Expenses. 6040 00 420 00 364 00 324 00 700 00 400 00 76&8 00 336 00 7322 00 7322 00 J13,902. cr £3491 Cy. Expense of the Exploration of the Assiniboine and Sonris Rivers for Tertiary Coal, and of Lake Manitobah for salt, and of the country between Lake Winipcg and Lake Manitobah, and the country bctweni Wiimipagoose Lake and the Assiniboine, and Westerly to the Saskatchewan, as far as the season will permit, between Lalve Winipcg and Lake Manitobah, in excess of the expense of sending supplies to Mr. Dawsor;, ^1872, — say ^2000 or £500 currency. (Signed) II, Y. lIiND. N.li. — I'istirnuie relened to in paragraph 5 of Provincial Sforentry'i Icller to Mr. Hind, dated 14th April, 1868. 180 SCHEDULE (A.) List of persons employed in the Canadian Red River Expedi- tion for 1858, and the Salaries or Wages of each, in con- formity with an estimate dated April 6th, 1858. Date of Engagement. April 14th. « « Henry Y. Hind, Geologist. (In charge.). James A. Dickenson, Surveyor John Fleming, Assistant Surveyor. John Hime, Photographer Api-:! 2t!th. u It (< « «< «( 1 « (I ft l( ■.t (( « (I « INDIANS. 1. Charles S. Eanasali, Guide 2. Martin Takatsitsiensere, Bowman. 8. Louis Tekaseiaseir, Steersman..! 4. Ignaa Tekarustiorite 5. Sx. Tiorateken 6. Lazare Aneratcriku 7. Mathias Shatckareukes 8. Thomas Orit^, Steersman 9. Louis Alioksisaks 10. Thomas Shakaohetstba 11. Mathias Aseurathor 12. Ignau Taserarew 13. Thomas Tekarenhoute , 14. Pierre Arontuakerna , Salary, per diem. $6 00 4 00 per month. £20 20 180 21 21 2ii 22 22 22 27 22 22 22 22 22 22 00 50 60 60 60 50 50 50 60 50 50 60 50 50 (Signed,) H. Y. Hind. N. B. — Schedule furnished by Mr. Hind, as called for in para- graph 7 of Provincial Secretary's letter, dated 14lh April, 1858. 13. On your return from Montreal I shall be prepared to give you your instructions in reference to the localities in which your explorations are to be conducted, and as to the objects to which your attention is to be more especially directed. I have the ^ lor wi be. Sir, yt>!ir obedient .sr vant, (Sigucd,) T. J. J. LoRAnroER, 8«er*taru. To H. Y. Hind, Esq., Toronto. 181 m- Secretaby's Office, Toronto, 16lh April, 1858. Sir, — I havie the honor to inform you that His Excellency the Governor General has recently had under his consideration in Council, the subject of the organization for the present year of the Exploring Expedition in the neighborhood of the Red River Settlement. 2. His Excellency in Council has decided, with a view to keep down as much as possible the expense of the expedition this year, to dispense with the services of Mr. Gladman as its general manager. 3. The Exploration party will consist of two distinct divi- sions, of which one division will be placed under your direction and control, and the other under the direction, &c., of Professor Hind. 4. Professor Hind is now engaged in making the necessary preparations for his departure for the Red River, and will probably set out from this in about ten days. 5. Professor Hind has been instructed to take with him the men (14), canoes, and other supplies, which you require for the prosecution of your explorations, and to hand them over to you when you meet. 6. You are to consider ah the articles and materials of every description belonging to the Canadian Government connected with the expedition as available for the purposes of the expe- dition this year, and you and Professor Hind may therefore divide them between you in whatever way you may think most advantageous. Such articles, if any, as may not be required by either of you should be left in the custody of some trust- worthy person to await the orders of the Government. 7. As soon as Professor Hind shall have handed over to you the men and canoes, &c., intended for you, each of you will be held separately responsible' for the expenses of his own party. 8. It would facilitate the auditing of the accounts of the ex- pedition for the future, if you would furnish me with a com- plete list of your parly as soon as you receive the men to be / I 4' ■' M' 'H^ \- 182 furnished you by Professor Hind, with their several rates of pay, and other details. 9. I am to add that should you consider it advisable, you are at liberty to detain with you any of the individuals on either Mr. Gladman^s or Mr. Napier's staff. 10. All your reports should in future be made direct to the Government through this office. 11. The instructions as to your future movements will be embodied in a separate communication. I have the honor to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) T. J. J. Lobanger, 8e9retary. S. J. Dawson, Esq., Surveyor, Canadian Red River Expedition, Red River Settlement. (Copy.) Secretary's Office, Toronto, 16th April, 1858. Sir, — ^Adverting to the last paragraph in my letter to you this day, I have the honor to inform you that it is not thought necessary to make any alteration in the instructions for your future operations contained in the Order in Council of the 29th January last, and which have been communicated to you by Mr. Giadman. 2. You will therefore consider those instructions, so far as your explorations, &c., are concerned, still in force. 3. I am to add, however, that if time allows it, you will endea- vor to survey the road between Gun Flint Lake and Pointe de Meuron, and when returning from the north-west corner of the Lake of the Woods, and passing through Rainy Lake, make oc- casional traverses, when prMcticable, with a view to ascertain the extent of arable land in that locality. COi 183 4. I am further to state that His Excellency, having every confidence in your judgment, does not think it right to trammel your movements by detailed instructions, and that you are therefore at liberty to make any other explorations in addition to those particularly mentioned in the instructions already con- veyed to you, should you, upon the information obtained in the locality, deem it desirable you should do so. I have the honor to be, sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) T. J. J. Lor anger. Secretary. S. J. Dawson, Esq., Surveyor in command of the Red River Expedition, Red River Settlement. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^/ A^ J?^ ^^ <• *^\j^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■ii|2£ Hi |jo ^^" M^l ■tt Uii |22 Sf Itt |2£ U 1 1.6 ^7 '^j^ •V* J% Photographic ^ScHioes Corporation ^ 4^ -^ ^. II WHT MAM ITMIT WIMTm,N.V. UIN (?U)I79-4I03 4(0 ."^ mfiiWiiiiTra 186 report for last year, and the deposit of tertiary coal or lignite, reported to exist in the valley of Mouse River. 7. It is most> important that you should ascertain, by actual examination, as far as possible, the existence, extent and character of these deposits. 8. In ascending or descending the different rivers you may have occasion to explore, it is advisable that you should note with care, their breadth, depth, rate of current, and the pro- bable quantity of water discharged by them at different points, and at different seasons of the year, their facilities for naviga- tion by boats or steamers, and whether they overflow their banks to any great extent at any season of the year. 9. The general aspect of the whole regions should be care- fully described. The character of the timber and soil observed, and the general fitness of the latter for agricultural purposes ascertained as far as may be from observation and inquiry. 10. It is desirable that your meteorological observations should be made with the maximum and minimum thermo- meter, and with the wet and dry bulb. The temperature of the rivers, lakes and springs should also be recorded, and the rain fall observed. Any reliable information you can obtain as to the quantity of snow precipitated during the winter would also be of in- terest. 11. Your topographical explorations should be made with reference to the construction of a map (as complete as possible) of the region explored, on a scale of two miles to one inch — and your operations should be conducted in view of a pos- sible extension, at some future time, of the exploration, so as to embrace the entire valley of Lake Winipeg and its feeders. 12. With a view to illustrate the natural history of the country, you will avail yourself of such opportunities as may present themselves to collect any objects that may be useful for that purpose. 13. Any geological or natural history specimens which you may have collected during your explorations, may be left by you at Red River, on your return, with the other property of 187 the Government belonging to the expedition, to await the orders of the Government, with the other articles referred to in the tenth paragraph of my letter of the 14th inst. 14. I am to add that His Excellency, having every confi- dence in your judgment and discretion, does not wish to trammel you with more detailed instructions, and that you are left at liberty to make any other exploration, in addition to those particularly named therein, should you, upon informa- tion obtained in the locality, deem it desirable for the general purposes of the expedition. * 15. It is hardly necessary to state that you will be held responsible for the conduct, diligence, and fidelity of the party under your charge. 16. With a view to distinguish your branch of the expedi- tion for the present year, it will be convenient to designate it as the "Assiniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedi- tion;" by this title therefore you will describe it in your Report. I have the honor to be, sir, Your obedient servant, (Signed,) T. J. J. Loranger, Beeretary, Henry Y. Hind, Esq., Toronto. [Copy.] Toronto, 28rd April, 1868. Sir, — 1 respectfully ask permission to endeavour to make arrangements with Dr. McKay, the Editor-in-chief of the Illus- trated London News, and now in this city, to have published in the Illustrated London News, a series of sketches of the Forts belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, of Indians and of scenery, either drawn by hand or taken by photograph, during the proposed exploration of the vallies of the Assiniboine and Saskatchewan, under my charge. 1 would suggest that each sketch or photograph should be accompanied by a brief description furnished by myself, and I: 188 in all instances sent to Toronto for your inspection and approval before transmission to London. I would further beg to suggest that it should be made if possible, a condition of the arrangement that stereotyped copies of all sketches or photographs taken during this explo« ration and published in the Illustrated London News, be sup- plied by the Proprietor of that journal for the purpose of illustrating my report and narrative of the progress of the expedition. • I have, &c., (Signed,) H. Y. Hind. To the Honble. T. J. J. Loranger, Provincial Secretary. Secretary's Office, Toronto, 27th April, 1868. Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that His Excellency the Governor General has been pleased to approve ot the ar- rangement which in your letter of the 23rd inst. you state you desire to be permitted to make with Mr. McKay, the Editor of the Illustrated News, relative to the publication in that journal, from time to time, of sketches to illustrate the scenery &c., of the country which you are about to explore this season. It is understood of course that no eha' . ill be made for the publication of the sketches, &c., in 'U^ illustrated News. His Excellency agrees with you in thinking that it would be very desirable to secure, if possible, from the proprietors of the News, stereotyped copies of any sketches furnished by you and published by them, for the purpose of illustrating your report. I have, &c., (Signed,) T. J. J. Loranokr, Seeretary, 189 >roval ade if »typed explo- e sup- ose of of the [iND. 1858. ellency the ar- ate you Editor in that scenery re this ade for News. woald ietors of by you ig your PART I. THE CANOE ROUTE FROM FORT WILLIAM, LAKE SUPERIOR, TO THE MOUTH OF RED RIVER, LAKE 'WINIPEG. CHAPTER I. The Sault Ste. Marie Canal, 1 — Profile of the Route between the Ocean and Lake Superior, 2 — Canadian public works on this Route, 8 — Elevation of Lake ^iiperior above the Ocean, 4 — Elevation 600 feet, 6, 6 — Nature of the Barrier opposing further progrees, 1 — Superior City distant from the Missis- sippi only 46 miles, 8 — Route by Superior City important, 9 — Distance between dividing ridges, 10 — Route from Valley of Lake Superior to that of Rainy Lake in Canadian territory, 11 — Pigeon River Route, 18 The Grand Portage, 14 — 2nd Portage to 12th Portage, 16, 18 — Belle Portage leads over the height of land, 18 — Advantages of the Pigeon Kiver Route X9 — Current^River, 20 — Character of the winter route of Indians to Oreat Dog Lake, 24 — A Road would save many miles of canoe route, 25 Height of Dog Lake and length of Portage, 26 — Importance of Current River Route, 21 — The Neepigon Route, 28 — The Outlet, 29 — The termi- nation in the Winlpeg River, 80. eretary. Saolt Ste. Marie Canal completes the communication between the Ocean and Lake Superior. 1. The completion of the Sault Ste. Marie Canal, (1) in May, 1855, established an uninterrupted water communication for sea-going vessels between Lake Superior and the Ocean. Profile of the Route between the Ocean and Lake Superior. 2. The heights and distances enumerated in the subjoined table, shew a profile of this route between Anticosti, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and Fort William, at the mouth of the Kam- inistiquia River, Lake Superior, (2). (1.) The Sault Ste. Marie Canal is one mile and-an-eighth in length, 70 feet wide tk bottom, and 100 at water-line, depth 12 feet. The average lift of the looks la 11 feet 6 inches. (2.) See a Map of the Province of Canada, shewing the oonnection by ateam navigation of the region of the great lakes with Europe, by the route of the St. Lawrenoe and the great lakea, prepared for the Canadian Commissioners of the Paris Exhibition by Thomas Keefer, 0. E., Montreal, 1866. •-;-"T^g|gBPI™^^='==='qm¥gg^^ 190 NAMES. Distance ' from An- ; ticosti in { miles. Elevation above the Sea level. 1 1 Length of Locks in 1 feet. j Breadth of Locks in feet. Total Lockage infect. Anticosti Onebec 410 690 690 614 662i 678 688 6901 714J 766 1016 1041 1280 Montrpa.! 14 14-58 68'6-141'3 142'6-185'6 190'6-196 196'3-207 207-213 213-325 234 •234-664 661 664 Lafihine Canal 6 9 7 1 2 1 2 200 200 200 200 45 45 45 45 44i "RAAiiliArnois do 82i 43 Parren's Point do 4 'BanidPlat do 12 St. Iroauois Canal 6 nnlnnH do g Lake Ontario Welland Canal 27 150 26) 330 Lake Brie Detroit River Lake St. Clair Kiver St. Clair. Lake Huron 1366 1680 1650 1650 1910 2030 673 673-682'5 582'6-600 600 River Sto. Marie Sault Ste. Marie Canal 2 050 ••••V5-- 17 i Tiakf> Sunerior Fori William Suoerior Citv Great Public Works of this communicatiou altogether Canadian, with the exception of the Sault. Ste. Marie Oanal. 3. With the single exception of the Sault Ste. Marie Canal, all the great Public Works which have been contrived and executed for the purpose of reducing the obstacles to uninter- rupted navigation between the great lakes and the ocean, lie within Canadian territory, and are under the control of the Canadian Government. (I.) Elevation of Lake Superior above (be level of the Ocean, accordiog to Bayfield, Messrs. Foster and Whitney, Sir Wm. Logan, and Sir J no. Riohardson. 4. The elevation of Lake Superior above the ocean level has been variously estimated by different observers. Captain Bayfield considered it to be 627 feet above the level of the sea, which altitude is adopted by the narrators of Agassiz tour in that region ; and by Messrs Foster and Whitney, in their (1) The cost of the construction of these remarkable links in the chain of un* broken communication, which now penetrates a distance ezoetiding 2000 miles into the interior of the North American Continent, approaches $15,000,000, and the annual revenue has risen from §181,000, in 1860, to 186*7,899 in 1886. 191 report on the geology of the Lake Superior Land District ; Sir William Logan, in his Geological Report for 1846-7, stales that its surface is 597 feet above the ocean ; and in Professor Hall's Geology of the 4th District, N. Y., 596 feet is its assigned elevation. Sir John Richardson assumed its level to be 641 feet above the ocean. Mr. Eeefer finds the level to be 600 feet above the oceau. 5. The altitude deduced in 1855 by Mr. Keefer, for the Map prepared for the Canadian Commissioners at the Paris Exhi- bition, with the advantages and information derived from the levels obtained in the construction of various railways and canals from the ocean to Lake Superior, establised a difference of only of 3 feet in excess of that obtained by Sir William Logan in 1847. 6. The occasional fluctuations in the level of the waters of Lake Superior certainly exceed 3 feet, so that the elevation in the foregoing table of 600 feet, is probably a correct estimate of the mean height of the waters of this Kitchi-gum-mi, (2) or " Great Lake'' of the Ojibways above the ocean. Nature of the barriers opposing fui*ther progress. 7. The barrier which opposes further westward progress by steam or boat navigation, follows the general direction of the north-western and western coast of Lake Superior. Near Fond du Lac, in the territory of the United States, the dividing ridge is distant from the St. Louis River about 18 miles, in a south- erly direction, and here the elevation of the ridge is 475 feet above the waters of the Lake. Superior City distant from the navigable portion of the Mississippi, above Crow Wing, only 49 miles. 8. Kettle river, flowing into the St Croix, a tributary of the Mississippi, issues from a small lake not twenty miles from Lake Superior, and the distance of the navigable portion of the Mis- sissippi, adjoining Sandy Lake, is scarcely 45 miles from Fona du Lac. The Mississippi is said to be navigable for steamers of light draught from Crow Wing to beyond this (2) Spelt by Longfellow Oitche-Oumee, Big Sea Water. (Hiawatha.) ' ! r-i 192 point, and Crow Wing is 130 miles from St. Paul by the tra- velled road, and less than 1 20 miles in an air line from Superior City. The route by Superior City to Crow Wing, a line of future commercial importance. 9. The construction of a plank road between Superior City and Crow^Wing, is already in contemplation, and the route is, even now occasionally |travelled. This line of communication between the valley of the Mississippi and the great lakes, will no doubt become of great commercial importance, to the region of the Upper Mississippi and its numerous tributaries ; and it is not improbable that its influence may extend to other water- sheds, viz : those of Rainy Lake, Red River, and the Saskat- chawan. Distance between dividing ridges of Lake Superior and Rainy Lake. 10. The dividing ridge between the £mbanas River, a tribu- tary of the St. LouisjRiver, and Vermillion River, which flows into the valley of Rainy Lake, is about forty-eight miles in an air line fromjhe north-west coast of Lake Superior. On the Pigeon River, which forms the boundary between the United States and Canada, the dividing ridge is only 28 miles in an air line fromjthe north-west coast of the same great water level, but by the course of Pigeon River this height of land, or Ash-a-soi-si-ta-gon Lako, is more than double that distance. Routes from Valley of Lake Superior to that of Rainy Lake, in Canadian territory. 11. In Canadian territory there are several routes by which access is gained from the valley of Lake Superior to that of Rainy Lake. The most southerly of these is the old North- west Company's frontier route by Pigeon River, already re- ferred to ; the second by the Kaministiquia River, which forms the main subject of the first section of this Report. The third an Indian route by Current River to Great Dog Lake ; and the fourth an Indian route by the Neepigon to Winipeg Rivers. 12. A brief notice of the Pigeon River route, with a glance at the Current River and Neepigon River routes, may not be out of place before proceeding to describe in detail the topography of the Kaministiquia route. 193 SKETCH OF THE PIGEON RIVER ROUTE, TO THE HEIGHT OF LAND SHEWN ON THE CHART. {See accompanying Chart.) Pigeon River Route. Cascades numerous, Timber of the Country, Poplar, Spruce and Birch. IS. (1) Pigeon River debouches into Lake Superior about 130 miles in a north-easterly direction from Fond du Lac, or Superior City, in an air line, but little over 30 miles from Fort William, and 15 miles from the south-west corner of He Royale. The first falls occur 1 1 miles from the mouth of the stream, and the river is here 75 feet broad, the perpendicular descent is 60 feet. Below the Falls, the river runs through a deep gorge from 15 to 20 feet in width ; about one mile further up a small fall occurs, and a mile and a half beyond, a perpendicular fall of 19 feet is caused by a dyke of greenstone, bearing east and west. Above this fall is a rapid which extends 1 1 feet in forty yards ; it rushes between hills on either side of the river, three and four hundred feet in height. Between the mouth of Arrow River, and the Great Cascades, the river presents a suc- cession of rapids, and small falls, the country is rolling and covered with poplar spruce and birch. The Orand Portage 9 miles long. 14. The Great Cascades are one mile below the West end of Grand Portage, once the site of " Fort Charlotte,** *b" many years the most important post of the North West Fur Coupany : In the distance of 400 yards, the River falls 144 feet : Three quarters of a mile beyond the Great Cascades, several rapids occur, and the river flows between Slate Hills, until the West end of the Grand Portage is gained : To avoid all these ob- structions, the Grand Portage of about 8^ miles is made from Grand Portage Bay, on Lake Superior, to this point of the river. 2nd, 8rd, and 4th portages. 15. Calling the Grand Portage the first portage on this route^, which it really becomes, if instead of ascending the river, trans- shipment is made directly from Grand Portage Bay on Lake 1( ■^^ . • *■ j , •'ji ■ il 104 Superior; the second transhipment will be round three perpen- dicular cascades, having, with the accompanying rapids, an aggregate fall of 55 feet : The third portage is 630 paces long : The fourth portage is 750 paces long, and avoids a rapid. Stb, 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th portages. 16. The fifth portage is 2,200 paces long, and terminates at the lower end of Lac du Coq, or Fowl Lake : The sixth portage is 550 paces long, and leads to Moose Lake : — At the upper end of Moose Lake a portage, marked on Thompson's map as 2.24 miles or 4605 yards long, leads to Arrow River :— The seventh portage (Great Cherry Carrying Place) is 1035 paces long, and leads to Lower Lilly Lake : The ninth portage Lesser Cherry Carrying Place) is 300 paces long, and leads to Hill Lake, (Mountain Lake,) 7| miles long, and a quarter to one-half mile in width. lOtb, 11th, and 12th Portages. 17. The tenth portage is 640 paces long, and leads to Watab Lake: The eleventh portage is 3315 paces long, and termi- nates at Mud Lake, the source of Arrow River : About a mile from the east end of Mud Lake the portage begins, which leads to a small Lake, tributary to Wisacode river : This por- tage is about 1000 yards long: The stream, before entering the Lake, has a fall of 66 feet : The twelfth is 480 paces in length, and leads to Ashawinisitagon Lake. The 13 th portage leads over the height of land. 18. The thirteenth portage is 540 paces, and leads over the dividing ridge, between the tributaries of Lake Superior and those of Hudson's Bay, to the source of Rainy Lake River, passing into and through Gun-flint Lake, and thence into Lake Seiganogab, with numerous cascades and picturesque falls. Advanlagea of the Pigeon River route : — Oomparison of distances. " 19. The Pigeon River route has the advantage of being much shorter than by the Kaministiquia, and on to the west side of the height of land it is said to possess facilities for boat commu- nication, which are not enjoyed by the route from Mille Lacs to Rainy Lake : The lake and rivers through which it passes 195 ppen- Sy an long : tes at i sixth \t the ipson's ver :— 3 1035 lortage ii leads quarter Watab 3 termi- Vbout a s, which his por- ring the length, over the rior and e River, to Lake Ifalls. Ices* iS much side of Icommu- llle Lacs lit passes having a greater body and depth of water : In former times it used to be much travelled by the voyageurs in the service of the North West Company : Grand Portage Bay is only 220 miles east of Rainy Lake, while Fort William, on the Kaminls- tiquia, is 263 from the same point. (1) A SKETCH OF CURRENT RIVER ROUTE TO THE GREAT DOG LAKE. Current River Falls in Thunder Bay. 20. About six miles in a north-east by east direction from Fort William, on the Kaministiquia, the waters of Current River are seen to fall over a precipitous ledge of black aguil- laceous Slate, within a few yards of their exit into Thunder Bay. Character of the forests in the Valley of Current River. 21. A succession of rapids and cascades which in the aggre- gate, perhaps, exceed 40 feet in height, occur within the space of half a mile from the mouth of the River, and forests of canoe-birch, balsam, white and black spruce, tamarack and cedar, with mountain ash and other small trees, fringe its rocky banks and occupy its shallow valley. Of the Soil. 22. The soil is of small depth, and reposes upon the slates, generally without the intervention of a sub-soil, but is covered, over large areas, with mos? to the depth of one foot and moi^e. Country back of Thunder Bay. 23. Mr. Mclntyre, the gentleman in charge at Fort William, stated that the vegetation and country back of Thunder Bay, in the valley of this small river, for a distance of about fifteen (1) For the foregoing brief notice of the Route by Pigeon River, as far as the height of land, I am indebted to the Report of Dr. J, G. Norwood, which will be found tn extento, in a Report on a Geological Survey of Wiaconsin, Iowa, and Minesota by Dr. D. D. Owen, U.S.G., and to tho Map constructed by David Thompson, Esq., in 1826, by order of the Commissioners, for the Bouodary Survey. ,,Sja^P(%vi««**vw..,^! m 196 miles, was similar to what we saw near its mouth : The moss which covers the thin coating of soil resting on the slates, in- creases in depth as we retire from the Lake, until it gives place to a better soil and timber of larger growth, within 12 to 15 miles in an air line from the mouth of the stream. Ourrent River, the 'winter route of Indiana to Qreat Dog Lake. 24. The valley of this River forms the winter route of the Indians from Thunder Bay to Great Dog Lake, and while the Great Dog Portage, by the circuitous route of the Kamiriis- tiquia, is not less than 43 miles from Fort William, Great Dog Lake is reached by the Valley of Current River, in an 18 or 20 miles march from Thunder Bay. A Road from Pointe Meuron, on the Eaminiatiquia River to Dog Lake, would save many miles of a difficult canoe route. 25. In making their winter journey to Great Dog Lake, the Indians generally proceed, we were informed, from the Mission in the neighborhood of Fort William to the mouth of Current River, and ascend its open and unencumbered course, reaching Dog Lake in one day from Fort William : A cursory inspec- tion of the map will shew that the direct line of route from Fort William, or rather from Pointe Meuron, through the forest, if a track werecleared, would save several miles. (1) Height of Dog Lake and length of portf^es on the Canoe Route. 26. The height of Great Dog Lake above Lake Superior is 710 feet, and to reach it in canoes by the route of the Kaminis- tiquia involves portages, which in the aggregate amount to 325 chains, or four miles in length, with an ascent nearly equal to the elevation of Great Dog Lake, above Superior. Importance of Ourrent River Route. 27. As a means of communication between Thunder Bay and Great Dog Lake, the Indian Trail up the Valley of Current River, appears to be of sufficient importance to require this (t) In Ourrent River speckled Trout are numerous, and its valley abounds with red and black currants, raspberries, strawberries, and goosebeiries, wherever Buffioient light and air for their growth obtains admittance, into the forest which covers the country. w moss s, in- place to 15 of the le the minis- it Dog )or20 B, vould ke, the Vlission [Jurrent jaching inspec- )m Fort !St, if a lerior is aminis- Qunt to y equal Uy &nd Jurrent lire this lundsirith l-wberever Uflt Trhiob special notice, and a bird*s-eye view of the country, from the summit of the Great Dog portage, showed no mountainous range between that point and Lake Superior, apparently equal in altitude to the great barrier of Dog Lake, which at the summit from where the sketch which accompanies this Report was taken, exceeds 850 feet above Lake Superior ; it acquires addi- tional importance from the fact that a travelled Indian canoe route and winter road exists between Dog Lake and Thousand Lacs, on the west side of the height of land. A SKETCH OP THE NEEPIGONO ROUTE TO WIN- IPEG RIVER. An Indian route not much travelled or known. 28. An Indian canoe route, respecting which little certain is known : — The Mission Indians on the Kaministiquia describe it as passing through a large number of Lakes, not figured on any Map to which I have had access, and communicating with Rainy Lake, by Mille Lacs, or with the Winipeg River, through numerous large Lakes, among which Lac Sal, near the height of land, is the most extensive. Outlet of Neepigon River. 29. The Neepigon River has its outlet in Neepigon Bay, about sixty miles in a direction north-east from Fort William, but by the Canal route round the coast, a much longer distance. 30. The route from the Neepigon enters the Winipeg River, a short distance above Island Portage, by a large river, named English River, which is now used as a Canal route by the Hudson's Bay Company's servants, from Red River to Moose Factory, at the mouth of Moose River, on James' Bay, and for- merly at rare intervals to Lake Superior. (2.) Keepigoa— dirty water — Nee-pi-gon. 198 CHAPTER IL THE KAMINISTiaUIA ROUTE. THITNDER BAY TO GREAT DOG LAKE. Thunder Bay, 31 — Entrance to the Harbour, 32 — The Welcome Island, 33 — Channel of the River, 84 — Banks of the River, 85 — Mission of the Imma> culate Conception, 36 — McKay's Mountain, 8t — Maple on McKay's Moun- tain, 38 — The Village at the Mission, 39 — Freezing and thawing of the River, 40 — Indian Com, 41 — Limestone exists, 43 — Remains of extensive Battlements, 44 — Vegetation, 46 — Rapid, 45 — The Grand Falls of Kaka- beka, 46 — Height of, 4*7, 48 — Alluvial Valley, 49 — Vegetation of, 60 — Area of Cultivable Land in, 61 — Limit of good Land, 62 — Falls and Rapids, 53 — Vegetation poor, 54 — Burnt Forrest, 55 — The Great Dog Portage, 56 — View from, 56 — Physical structure of the Great Dog Moun- tain, 5*7 — Much good land on the flanks of the Great Dug, 58 — Track of a Tornado, 59 — Black Spruce Swamp, 59 — Labrador Tea Plant, 59 — Coal Wells in Moss, 69 — Good Road on the Great Dog, 60 — Section of Great Dog Portage, 60. Thunder Bay, position and extent. 31. Thunder Bay, which receives the waters of the Kaminis- tiquia, (1) forms a portion of the north-west expansion of Lake Superior. It is the most southerly of three large and deep land- locked bays, which characterise this part of the coast ; and it is situated between the parallels 48° 15' and 48° 35' north latitude, and in longitude 89°, and 89° west of Greenwich. Its greatest length in a north-easterly direction is 32 miles, and its breadth from Thunder Cape to the mouth of the Kaminis- tiquia, upon which Fort William is situated, about 14 miles. Entrance to the Harbor exceeds 180 feet in depth. 32. The main entrance to the Bay is between the imposing headlands of Thunder Cape, 1350 feet above the Lake level and Pie Island, five miles, south-west of the Cape, with an alti- tude of 850 feet. The depth of water in this broad entrance exceeds 180 feet, and a measure of 60 feet to 120 feet is main- tained in many parts of the Bay. (1) Spelt Kamiuiitlkwoya ; bj Sir Jno. Riobardtoii, "the riv«r (hat runs far about." 109 The Welcome Islanda, Water inside, 30 feet ; Water on the Bar yariea from 8^— 6^ feet. S3. Immediately opposite, and east of the three mouths of the Kaministiquia, the Welcome Islands are distant about two miles, and inside of these Islands from 60 to 30 feet of water is shown on Bayfield's Chart. Within half a mile of the River's mouth the water shoals rapidly, and the Bar has a variable depth of three and a half to five feet and a half water upon it ; but within one thousand yards of the north, or main channel, twelve to fourteen feet water is maintained. Land is forming fast near the mouths of the river, and large areas in advance of the increasing delta, sustain a thick growth of rushes. Maia Ohannel of River; Fort William situated oa it; Aspect of the country about the Fort. 34. At a distance of about half a mile from the exit of the northern or main channel. Fort William is situated. Upon the left or north bank, and opposite, is a large Island formed by the middle channel of the Kaministiquia, which branches off from the main stream, about one and a half mile from the Bay. In the time of tha North West Company, this island was denuded of the trees it sustained, which consisted mainly of tamarack for fuel and other purposes, and the greater portion is now covered with second growth. A large area south of the Fort still remains destitute of wood, and forms the site of an Ojibway Village, besides serving as an excellent opan pasture ground for a herd of cows, belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, which swim across the River every morning, a distance of 400 feet, and return at an early hour in the afternoon to the farm yard in the vicinity of the Fort, Banks of River low.— Timber, Soil, Ao. 35. The banks of the river here are low and flat, not exceed- ing ten feet in altitude : In the rear of the Fort, tamarack of small but dense growth prevails : The sul is a light sandy loam reposing on yellowish clay. Miuion of tlie Iinmaoulate Oonception.— Indian Roaerve embraces much good land. 36. Two miles above the Fort, and in a direction nearly south from it, the third or south .irn outlet separates from the 200 main channel : The banks of the river continue to rise above the level of its waters until they attain, at the Mission of the Immaculate Conception, an altitude of eighteen or twenty feet : Near the Mission, the Indian Reserve of about twenty-five square miles begins ; it embraces the best and largest area of cultivable land in the valley of the Kaministiquia, and much of it being situated on the flanks of McKay's mountain range, portions possess many advantages which do not belong to the available tracts near the shores of Thunder Bay.* McKay's Mountain. 37. The general course of the river above the Mission for a distance of nine miles is towards the south-west, by very tor- tuous windings : Five miles from Fort William it approaches the base of the elevated table land, to which McKay's Moun- tain forms an imposing and abrupt termination. McKay's Mountain has an elevation of 1000 feet above the lake, and is the north-eastern boundary of an irregular but extended pla- teau, whose south-eastern flank follows the trend of the coast as far as Pigeon River. Maple and other Hardwoods grown on the flanks of McKay's Mountain. — The area over which good timber extends is very large, following the trap ranges. — Soil at the Mission. 38. It is worthy of remark, that the flanks of McKay's Mountain support a heavy growth of hardwood timber (maple, &c.), and from various sources I was informed that this heavily timbered land stretches far to the south-west, on the side and borders of the table land. The rock formations which com- prise the country between the Kaministiquia and Pigeon Rivers, indicate the presence of a fertile soil on the flank of the irregu- lar table land ; The trap with which the slates are associated, giving rise upon disintegration to a soil of superior character. At the Mission, a light reddish loam constitutes the soil ; this * By Treaty concluded in 1860, between the Hon. W. B. Rubiiison and Joseph Jeande Chat and his tribe, a Reservatiun to commence about two miles from Fort William on the right bank of the river Kaministiquia, thence westerly six miles, parallel to the chores of tlie Lake ; thence northerly five miles; thenoe ensterly to th« right bank of the said river, so as not to interfere with any acquired right of tht Hon. Hudsoo'a Bay Company. 201 ll Joaeph loin Fort lix milei, |aterly to i right of reposes to the depth of six feet upon a bluish grey clay, which extends from the 'vater's edge to ten feet lower. The village oi -<1 UsBion very thriving, and coosiBts of 80 to 85 houseB, well built of wood. 39. The Mission of the Immaculate Conception is under the charge of the Rev. Jean Pierre Chor^, who has resided on the banks of the Kaministiquia for nine years. From that gentle- man, who kindly afforded me every information respecting this valley in his power, 1 obtained numerous facts of interest in re- lation to its adaptation for settlement. At the Mission there are already congregated from thirty to thirty-five houses, substan- tially built of wood, and in their general arrangement and con- struction far superior to the log houses of Canadian pioneers in the forest. Many of them were surrounded with gardens, a few of which were in a good state of cultivation, and with some small fields fenced with post and rail. Freezing and thawing of the river, 16th November and 10th April. 40. The average period of the river freezing, is from the third to the fifteenth of November, and it becomes free from ice be- tween the twentieth and twenty-third of April. The present year has proved an exception in many respects ; the ice did not pass out of the river until the thirteenth May, and on the first of August, the day of my visit, the waters of the river were higher than they had ever been known before at that at that season of the year. Indian corn does not ripen at the Mission, but ripens in flank of McKay's Mountain. 41. Indian corn will not succeed in this settlement, early and lute frosts cutting it ofi*. Frost occurs here under the infiuence of the cold expanse of Lake Superior, until the end of June, and begins again towards the end of August. A few miles further up the river, west of McKay's Mountain, the late and early frosts are of rare occurrence, and it was staled that Indian corn would ripen on the flanks of McKay's Mountain. Four or five miles up the river many vegetables succeed well, whioh will not grow near the lake. 42. All kinds of small grain succeed well at the Mission, and the reason why they have not been more largely cultivated is 202 owing to the want of a mill for the purpose of converting them into flour or meal. Near the lake, at Fort William for instance, oats do not always ripen; the cold air from the lake, whose surface fifty miles from land, showed a temperature on the close of the hottest month of the year, of 39** 6', is suflicient to pre- vent many kinds of vegetables from acquiring maturity, which succeed admirably four or five miles up the river. Limestone exists in the neighborhood. — Ruins of a kiln seen. 43. Fragments of limestone have been procured in the neigh- bourhood, but the locality could not be pointed out by any of its inhabitants. The ruins of a lime kiln, used by the North West Company, have been discovered, and it is very probable that the limestone was obtained from the crystalline layers, the existence of which has been established over wide areas in Thmider Bay, by Sir William Logan, and are noticed by him as being of a *' reddish white color, and very compact, some of which would yield gobd material for burning." These beds of impure limestone are mentioned by Mr. Murray (Geological Survey, Canada, for 1846-7) as occurring in the lower portions of the formation occupying this valley (1). Remains of extensive settlements not uncommon. 44. It is worthy of notice that substantial records of far more extensive settlements than now exist, and a higher degree of civilization and improvement are found at or near the various Posts along this route, and particularly at Fort William, which datfe from the time of the North- West Company : many of these lie only in the recollection of the voyageurs. There is reason to believe that much valuable knowledge respecting the resourc:'S of particular localities has been forgotten, or is hidden in the memories of those who may have neither into-' rest or opportunity to make it known. For an account of the progress of the seasons at Fort William, see Appendix (1). Olajr banks uf the River, vegetation rich (lud luxuriant. First Rnpids. 46. Opposite McKay's Mountain the clay banks of the river were about fifteen feet hi^h, and continued to rise on one (1) Geological Survey of Oanada— 1840-7 : Pago Ifi. 203 them itance, Mrhose 3 close to pre- which neigb- nny of 5 North robable ers, the Teas in by him some of beds of ological portions ar more gree of various Villiam, many There peeling en, or is ler inte-* It of the x(l). the river on one side or the other until they attained an elevation of nearly sixty feet, often however retiring from the present bed of the river, and giving place to an alluvial terrace, some eight or ten feet in altitude, and clothed with the richest profusion of grasses and twining flowering plants. The current begins to be rapid about nine miles from Fort William soon after passing Point de Meuron the site of a fort established by Lord Selkirk, and continues so, in the ascending course of the stream, to the foot of the first demi-portage, called the "Decharges des Paresseux," where a rock exposure creates the Rapids which occasion the portage. The fall here is 5 feet 1 inch, in a distance of 924 feet. The distance of this portage from the lake, by the windings of the river, is about 22^ miles, and the total rise probably reaches 39 feet. The Grand F^ls of Kakabeka. 46. The current continues rapid up to the foot of the Grand Falls, and high rock exposures commence on the precipitous three miles banks below them. These gradually assume the form of mural cliffs, capt with drift increasing in altitude until they attain at the foot of the Grand Falls, the height of about 160 feet on the left bank, while on the opposite side of the river the mountain portage path winds round the steep of a bold projecting escarpment, 91 feet in altitude, and nearly half a mile from the falls. Height uf the Grand Falls. 47. At our camp, seven miles below the Grand or Ka-ka- beka falls ns they are termed, the level of the river was esti- mated to be 40 feet above Lake Superior, and the foot of the falls sixteen feet higher. The Grand Falls themselves were found by levelling, to have an altitude of 119.05 feet, and in- volved a portage of 62 chains or | of a mile. They are distant from the mouth of the river by its windings about 30 miles, and in an air line seventeen miles. ■'§•]'■) 204 Altitude of the Grand Falls by different observers. 48. As the altitude of these falls has attracted the attention of several observers, the difierent results obtained may not be without interest: Feet. Altitude ascertained by levelling, (Mr, Dawson, August, 1857) 119.06 Capt. (now Col.) Lefroy, barometrical measure- ment 115,00 Mr. Murray, of the Canadian Geological Survey. 119.00 Major Delafield 125.00 Sir John Richardson, barometrical measurement. 127.00 Lieuts. Scott and Derry (1) 130.00 Summit of Falls above Lake Superior : 1 19.05+56.20=176.25. Breadth of the Alluvial Valtey of the Kaministiquia. 49. The alluvial valley of the river from about three miles below the Mountain Portage to Fort William varies in breadth frem a few hundred yards to one mile ; the breadth occupied by land of a quality which might fit it for agricultural pur- poses, extends to near the summit of the flank of a low table land, which marks the true limit of the river valley, and the average breadth of this may be double that of the strictly alluvial portion. Vegetation of the Valley. 50. The low table land is thinly wooded with small pine, and the soil is poor and dry ; the alluvial valley sustains elm, aspen, balsam, poplar, ash, butternut, and a very luxuriant pro- fusion of grasses, vetches, and climbing plants ; among which the wild hop, honeysuckle and convolvulus, are the most con- spicuous. The rear portion of the valley, with an admixture of the trees just named, contains birch, balsam, white and black spruce, and some heavy aspens. The underbrush embraces hazelnut, cherries of two varieties, &c. (1) See page 861 of the New York Edition of Sir Juo. Riobardaoo's Arctic Bearohiiig Expedition. 205 pine, elm, t pro- hich It cori- ire of black traces Arctic Area of cultivable land in the Valley of the Kaministiquia exceeds 20,000 acres, not including the flanka of McKay's Mountain. 51. Occasionally the flanks of the low Table land approach the river, contract the valley, and give an unfavorable aspect to the country. This occurs near the Decharges des Parresseux, and at most of the heavier rapids. The area, available for agri- cultural purposes below the Grand Falls, probably exceeds twenty thousand acres ; but if the flanks of McKay's Mountain be included in the estimate, a largo addition may with propriety be assumed. The Grand Falls mark the limit of available country for agricultural purposes in the Valley of this River. 52. The Grand Falls mark the limit of a tract of country dif- fering in many important physical aspects from the valley of the river lower down. From black argillaceous slates we pass to a region in which granite, gneiss, and chlorita schist prevail, and where the vegetation is often scanty and poor. Falls and Rapids with their descent?. 63. The course of the River is almost due north to Little Dog Lake, and its flow much broken by falls and rapids, which occasion in a distance of nineteen miles, six portages and five discharges : The Falls have respectively an altitude of 6.59 feet: Ecarte Portage (Nicolet Portage^ 12.62 feet; Portage de LMsle, (third above Ka-ka-be-ka) 6.90 feet ; Recousi Portage, (fourth above Ka-ka-be-ka) 25 feet ; (Couteau Portage) 3 feet ; (Portage des Martres) and 14.94 feet (Little Dog Portage.) Vegetation poor. 50. In the forests which lined the banks at the different dis- charges, the canoe birch was frequently seen eighteen inches in diameter : The under brush consisted chiefly of hazel nut ; wherever the gneissoid and syenite rock prevailed, the valley of the River was much contracted, the timber light, and the soil shallow and full of boulders or detached masses of rock : The volume of water in the river appeared to be very small, consid- ering its unusual height at this season of the year : — An approx- imate measurement at one of the rapids gave a breadth of seventy with an average depth of two feet. 'ifitii 206 Burnt Forest.— Luxuriant Vegetation on the Great Dog Mountain. 65. Extensive areas covered with burnt forest trees, consist- ing cliiefly of pine, occur in the valley of the River, as far as Little Dog Lake, when the formidable barrier of the Great Dc^ Mountain, sustaining a heavy growth of timber, comes into view : Occasionally aspens of large dimensions may be seen from the canoe, but it is not until the plateau of the Great Dog Mountain is attained that they acquire a diameter reaching eighteen or twenty-four inches, five feet from the ground : Trees of this species, and of the above dimensions, are found in abundance on the elevated barrier which separates the region of Great Dog Lake from the valley of the Kaminisitiquia, 347.81 feet below. The Great Dog Portage elevation above Little Dog Lake.-— View from the Great Dog Mountain. 66. The Great Dog Portage (1) rises 490 feet above the level of the Little Dog Lake, and at the greatest elevation of the ridge cannot be less than 500 feet over the same Lake : The difference between the levels of Little and Great Dog Lakes is 347.81 feet, and the length of the portage between them one mile and fifty-three chains : The view from the summit of the Great Dog (more than 700 feet above Lake Superior) is very striking : Little Dog Lake lies at our feet, an unbroken forest of pines dotted with groves of aspen and birch, and in the swamp por- tions with tamarack, stretches in all directions, from east to west, being bounded in the view by the distant undulating outline of the wooded hills, which limit the valley of the Kaministiquia : — A portion of the abrupt escarpment of the elevated table land in the neighborhood of McKay's Mountain, was distinctly visible. Physical structure of the Great Dog Mountain. 67. The base of the Great Dog Mountain consists of a gneis- soid rock supporting numerous boulders and fragments of the same material : A level plateau of clay then occurs for about a quarter of a mile, from which rises, at a very acute angle and (1.) See Section No. 1, 207 jist- p as Dog into seen Dog jhing frees id in egion 47.81 a the 3 level of the The akes is le mile I Great iking : pines ip por- ;o west, itUne of luia : — )le land Istinctly to an altitude of 283 feet above Little Dog Lake, an immense bank or ridge of stratified sand, holding small water worn peb- bles : The bank of sard continues to the summit of the portage or 185 feet above the clay plateau : The portage path does not pass over the highest part of the sand ridge : East of the path it is probable that its summit is 500 feet, as before stated, above the Little Dog Lake. Much good land on the flanks of the Great Dog Mountain, 68. Li an endeavor to reach the head of Little Dog River, before it begins to make in its short course of (1) about four or five miles, a descent of 347 feet, I found that much of the soil on the flanks of the Great Dog Mountain, was far superior lo the average quality in the valley of the Kaminisitiquia : It consisted of a clay loam, with a gravelly subsoil, containing numerous pebbles and water worn fragments of rock ; this was particu- larly noticed on the flanks and surface of the lower plateau. (See section of Great Dog Mountain.) Track of a Tornado. — Black Spruce Swamp, — Cool Wells in the moss of the Black Spruce Swamp. 59. The upturned roots of trees in the track of a tornado, which must have occurred here some years since, afforded an excellent opportunity of examining the soil and subsoil of the lowest plateau, and the flank of the upper one : The upturned roots of large aspens, birch and pine, showed everywhere a gravelly loam containing pebbles from one to six inches in diameter : On approaching the source of Little Dog River a black spruce swamp was found to occupy an extensive area, but little above the level of the river. The clay soil in this swamp was covered to the depth of two feet with moss, which was again largely overgrown with the Labrador tea plant : Small holes in the moss, filled with clear, cool water, afforded a striking contrast to the heated water of the rivers and lakes ; the temperature of these shallow wells did not exceed 42°, (1) Little Dog River ia a continuation of the Kaminieitit^uia, but in accordance with the Indian custom it is named from the Lake into which ii flows. :i:!' 208 while the water of Great Dog Lake, tested a few hours after- wards, (half-past 5, P. M.,) was 69**, a difference of 37**. A good Road could be constructed in the flanks of the Great Dog Mountain, and the one hundred and forty-three feet of ascent. — Section of Dog Portage. 60. The Great Sand Bank declines in steppes towards the River, and by turning its flank, an excellent level road on the side of the first plateau could be constructed, with a length not exceeding twice that of the present portage path, which rises over 140 feet above the lake to which it leads : The following section, kindly furnished me by Mr. Napier, will exhibit the relation of the several plateaux to one another, and to Great Dog Lake. NO. 1. SECTION OF GREAT DOG LAKE. Height in Distance in Feet. o 163.53 1000 215.00 1450 251.74 1650 283.78 2550 468.19 3800 478.00 5920 490.00 6180 474.00 7400 395.00 8680 848.00 8712 LITTLE DOG LAKE. Beginning of 1st Plateau. Termination of do. Boginiii ng of 2nd do. End of 2iid Plateau, and commencement of Sand Bank. Commenoenient of 3rd Plateau. End of 3rd Plateau. Summit of level and commencement of 4th Plateau. End of 4th Plateau, and commencement of descent to edfipe of Oliff. End of descent. Bottum of Cliff, and level of Oreat Dog Lake. 209 CHAPTER IIL GREAT DOG LAKE TO THE HEIGHT OF LAND. Area of Great Dog Lake, 61 — Vegetation, 61 — Depth of water in Great Dog Lake, 62 — Distance from Port William, 63 — Former extension of, 63 — Great Dog Lake an oM centre of commuDicatiou and is connected with Mille Lacs, 64 — Many other routes probably exists, 65 — Professor Keating speaks of these routes 83 years ago, 66 — Valley of Dog River, 67 — Banks alluvial, 67, 70 — Ancient Forest, 71 — Action of ice, 72 — Labrador Tea, 78 — Dam at mouth of Little Dog River, 73 — Climate, 74 — Action of ice, 74 — Prairie River, 75 — Sources of Dog River, 76 — Height of Land Barrier, 77 — Prairie Portage, 78 — Height of Land Lake, 78 — Vegeta- tion of Prairie Portage, 79 — Height and Distances, 80, 81 — Temperature of Lakes and Rivers, 82. Area of Dog Lake about 200 square miles. 61. The area of Great Dog Lake, according to Mr. Murray, (1) whose opportunities of examining it were considerably greater than those of the members of the Exploring Expedition, probably exceeds 200 square miles; and, according to that gentleman, the country surrounding it is hilly, and covered with Forests in which white spruce prevails, interspersed with groves of aspens, and occasionally dotted with the Weymouth (white) and Banksean (red) pines ; white and yellow birch are abundant, and some of them of large dimensions. The lake is bounded by bold primary rocks, and studded with innumerable islands. Depth of water in Great Dog Lake very great. 62. The traverse of the canoe route, from the head of the Great Dog Portage to the mouth of Dog River, is about 11 miles in length, and the lake is seen to stretch far to the north of the last named point ; the canoe route follows closely the direction of its longest diameter, which is nearly due north and south ; the depth of water, as ascertained by occasional soundings along the line of traverse, is very considerable. In one instance, 72 feet was recorded about 200 yards from a low rocky shore, and (1) Report of Progress for the year 1846-7. ■.^misa^mm piii'' 210 another sounding showed 90 feet half a mile from land ; both of these soundings are marked on the Map which acconipanies this Keport. Dietaoce of Great Dog Lake from Fort "William, 18 miles, in an air line. Former extension of Dog Lake visible. 63. The position of this lake in relation to Thunder Bay, is interesting, as it forms the termination of a long land traverse from Current River, which is used by the Indians during the winter season; its distance in an air line from Fort William, is about nineteen miles ; whereas, by the windings of the Kaminis- tiquia, it is 55^ miles ; the former extension of Dog Lake in a westerly direction up the valley of the river of the same name for 14 or 15 miles, is probably shown by numerous sand ridges which cross the valley of Dog River nearly at right angles to its course, as well as by the probable former extension of a portion of the Great Sand Ridge Barrier, which has been described as occurring at the Great Dog Portage, across the valley of the .Little Dog River. Great Dog Lake an old centre of communication for the Indians. Is connected -with Mille Lacs. '64. Great Dog Lake appears to be a certain centre of commu- nication to which some degree of speculative interest may.be attached ; our guides pointed out the direction from one of the great westerly bays, through which a communication with Thousand Lakes, on the other side of the water shed. No doubt the route through this communication passes through ex- tensive marshes, yet, if it avoids the objectionable ascent of Prairie River and Portage, it may be worthy of attention. Thou- sand Lakes, or Mille Lacs, as it is more commonly called, is feet above Lake Superior, consequently above Dog Lake. This route an old route. — Many others probably exist. 65. This route has long been known to the voyageurs and to the Indians about Fort William, and the same may be remarked of many other routes of which the Indian guides speak, and attempt to describe. Thirty-three years ago it was an old " pathj" and may have been one for centuries to the Indians of 211 oth of es this ine. Bay, is [•averse ng the iam, is aminis- £6 in a ame for I ridges OS to its portion ribed as y of the commu- may . be [e of the ion with id. No pugh ex- Lscent of Thou- jalled, is |og Lake. [s and to remarked |eak, and an old idians of this region. No doubt that water communiealions superior to those now travelled may yot be found, but it seems clear that until the water shed of Rainy lake is reached, no communica- tion holding up sufficient water to form a boat route exists, or can be made without extensive and repeated dams. Professor Keating sp aks of this route 83 years ago. 66. Professor Keating, so far back as 1823, relates that his party were shown an arm of the Lake which extends to the south-west, and which they were informed connects Great Dog Lake by an uninterrupted water communication with the Thousand Lakes. The route is shorter than that by Prairie Portage, but much filled with rapids. The same authority says that there is a communication between the Kaministiquia and Thousand Lakes passing more to the south than that from Dog Lake. (1) Valley of Dog River flooded in spring, extending Dog Lake many miles in a westerly direction. 67. So sluggish is the flow of water in Dog River that a rise of 10 feet in the level of the lake would push back its waters to a distance of 35 miles up the tortuous course of that stream, and the voyageurs relate that in the spring of the year they are accustomed to paddle their canoes over the tops of the willows which fringe its banks below the first rapids, fourteen miles in an air line from the mouth of the river ; the greater portion of the intervening valley being then under water. Banks of the River alluvial. — Depth small, 23 feet ; rises in spring 10-15 feet a! the upper end of its valley. 68. The banks of Dog River are altogether alluvial, for some distance up the valley, with the occasional exception of the abrupt sand-cliffs noticed, which come upon the river and seem to form the termination of ridges, which traverse the valley at nearly right angles to the course of the stream. Re cent water marks showed a rise of five feet within three mile . of the mouth of the river, and the shores of the lake itsei (1) Narrative of an Expedition to the source of the St. Peter's River, &c., & by Wm. H. Keating, A. M. S., 1824. 'eiV' C!b-.4 •b%I'^' ' 1 !♦ 212 indicated a recent water level about four feet above its present height, (August 8th.) Higher up ihe stream, a recent rise of six feet was indicated. The banks showed alder bushes, willow, dogwood, and tamarack ; its average breadth is about 80 feet in ordinary seasons ; its general depth at this period of the year cannot be above two or three feet, as we were in- formed by our steersman, that he has often known canoes to be constantly impeded by shallows and drift islands, at times when the level was probably four feet lower than during the present extraordinary season. Dog River coniiectB with the Neepigon, and the Neepigon with English River. — Wiuipeg River — (see parugrapli.) 69. The average height of the bank rises from four feet, a short distance from the mouth of the river, to ten feet, fourteen miles further up. At nearly every turn, newly formed oval and elongated banks of sand protruded and showed a general elevation of five feet above the present level. Low hills of granite begin to narrow the valley, after passing a small stream coming from the north, and said to lead to a communication with the Neepigon. The Valley of Dog River. 70. From the summit of a low granite hill, perhaps 200 feet above the river bed, the surrounding country was distinctly mapped out at our feet. The valley of the river appeared to have a breadth of a mile at our point of view, widening out in the direction of Dog Lake, and contracting towards the height of land between low ranges of granite hills, which did not seem anywhere to exceed 200 — 280 feet in altitude. Remains of an nnclont forest seen. 7' Some of the hil!s consisted of bare rock, others were covered witli a young forest growth, which seemed to consist chiefly of the Bunkscan pine and aspen. In the distance the tops of a few hills showed clumps of red pino standing erect and tall above the ^^surrounding fore.st. They may be the remnants of an ancient growth, which probably once covered a large por- tion of this region, having been destroyed by fire at different epochs, as largo areas were still strewed with the blackened 213 Bsenl ise of ishes, about iod of re in- oes to times ag the River.— feet, a burteen 3d oval general hills of 1 stream inication lers were Ito consist Itance the lerect and I remnants jlarge por- It difTerent [blackened trunks of trees ; and in the young bush which seems fresh and green at a distance, the ground was found to sustain the charred remains of what had once been a far more vigorous vegetation. Hill abraded — probably by ice — The Labrador tea common. 72. The low ranges of hills bear a great outward resemblance to those which surround Dog Lake. No precipitous escarp- ments are visible, but most of them have a rounded dome-like aspect, and close inspection of some of them gave strong indi- cations of the abrading action of ice. Large quantities of Labrador tea (ledum palustre), were seen everywhere we landed. The flow of the river until we approach a stronger current, 25 miles from Dog Lake, varies from a half to one mile an hour. QeDeral character of the Valley of Dog River, similar to that of Dog Lake. — Effect of a Dam at the mouth of Little Dog River. — Boulders left by ice od a ledge of rook, on the margin of the river. 73. The general character of this valley is very uniform, and the idea presented to the mind in endeavoring to picture its aspect when covered with water in the spring, was that a general rise of 20 or 25 feet would give it an appearance very similar to Great Dog Lake ; with analogous deep bays formed by the valleys of its tributaries, and having on its shores hills of the same altitude, and similar formations as are found bordering the lake below : in fact a high (25 feet) dam, as has already been hinted, at the source of Little Dog River, might perhaps convert Dog Lake into a magnificent sheet of water, having in a westerly direction a farther extension of at least fifteen miles. It would remain, however, to be ascertained whether Dog Lake has not other outlets than the one which leads through Little Dog River. It is not at all improbable that this may be the case. Differeaoe in the climate of the Grand Falls and this part of the Dog River Valley. DifTereuoe in altitude 642 fo«t. 74. At our camp on the 9lh of August, at the head of a Bmall portage round a fall of 8 J feet, about 3 miles below the mouth of Prairie River, blue bj'rrips, not yd rij)e, were very abuadaoti showing a marked difl'erencc in the climate of this ':'» 214 spot and the Grand Falls, where, some days before we had found them perfectly ripe, and in the greatest profusion. The difference in elevation is about 542 feet. About a quarter of mile from the camp, in our course up the river, we came upon a bare granite hill, about 250 feet high, ascending from the water's edge, at an angle of nearly 45**. Its surface, consisting of smooth rounded ridges, and about 15 feet above the river a collection of water-worn boulders, from 6 inches to 2 feet in diameter, were deposited upon a ledge, leading to the infer- ence that they had been left there by ice during spring freshets, and so far showing some confirmation of the statements of the Indians respecting the remarkable rise of water in the long valley during the spring months. Prairie River only 10 feet broad. — Dog River. 76. The last portage on Dog River in the canoe route to Fort Francis, is the Jourdain Portage, four miles in an air line from the height of land. It involves an ascent of 8.60 feet by a portage 6^ chains long ; a very short distance above it, the mouth and windings of Prairie River are seen with difficulty through the tall rushes which seek to conceal its course for a distance of 200 or 300 yards. Up this little streamlet, scarcely 10 feet broad, the canoe route lies, while Dog River, still measuring a breadth of 40 feet, can be traced far to the north by a succession of small lakes and ponds which mark its course. DescriptioD of Dog River to the feeding swamp. 76. Mr. Murray, of the Geological Survey, ascended Dog River up to its feeding marsh in 1847, and describes its course after receiving Prairie River, through which our route lay, as *' turning off nearly due north, and widening out into a long " narrow lake for about 2 or 3 rniles, after which there follows " in the same line a chain of 12 twelve small lakes, or ponds, " connected by short rapid streams, comprised within the dis- " tance of 10 to 12 miles. The uppermost pond appeared at ** its northern extremity to terminate in a great mar.sh, which " was supposed to be the ultimate source of the river, and to ^^ extend far and wide along the height of land, probably join- 215 re had , The irler of le upon •om the isisting river a feet in 16 infer- freshets, Is of the the long route to a air line 10 feet by 76 it, the difficulty urse for a ;, scarcely liver, still the north mark its " ing the Great Marsh of the Savannah Portage on the Red "River route" (I). 77. Prairie River is scarcely more than 10 feet broad at its mouth, and for a few hundred yards it is so thickly fringed with rushes that two canoes cannot proceed side by side, or even pass one another with facility. The length to Cold Water Lake is about If mile, in an air line, and perhaps nearly double that distance by its windings ; its general course is a few degrees to the south of west. Much of the route towards the high barrier of land at Cold Water Lake, which now comes into view, lies through small marshy lakes or ponds, three in number, and the whole distance does not exceed three miles. The barrier behind Cold Water Lake, which stretches far to the north and south, may rise 200 or 220 feet in height, the end of the portage path over it, according to measurement at the height of Land Lake, being 157 feet above the lake. It constitutes the great and formidable prairie, or height of Land Portage, two miles and five eighths of a mile long. Cold Water Lake is well named on account of its temperature. Careful observation made it 4l°5, and the large spring or source which feeds it, and gives rise to the Prairie River, gushes out of the rocky side of the barrier, about 50 feet above the lake, with a temperature of 39°5. Prairie Portage does not pass over the highest land betTreen Lake Superior and Rainy Lake.-^Height of Land Lako 167 feet above Gold Water Lake, and 886 above Lake Superior. 78. Prairie Portage passes over the height of land, but not the highest land on the route, and its course lies first south- west up a steep wooded hill, without rock exposure, but com- posed of drift clays, sand, and numerous boulders ; it then enters a narrow valley, which terminates in a small lake, about five acres in area, and 20 feet deep, occupying a hollow among the hills on the height of land. The portage path continues on in the same direction until the Height of Land Lake is (I) Report of Progress, 1846-7.— Prairie River 10 feet broad.— Height of land barrier rises 220 feet above Cold Water Lake, at the foot of the height of land. •tj 216 reached, a small sheet of water, about a square mile in area, and 167 feet above Cold Water Lake. The utmost elevation reached on the Prairie Portage is probably 190 feet above Cold Water Lake, or nearly 900 feet above Lake Superior, It is probable that no hill within sight attained an elevation exceed- ing 20 or 30 feet above this limit. Mr. Dawson makes the height of Land Lake 879 feet above Lake Superior. Prairie Portage Bustiuns good sized Spruce atid Pine. — Labrador tea common.— Fragrant Indian tea common. 79. Prairie Portage sustains some spruce and pine of fair dimensions, one pinus banksina measured 5 feet 9 inches in circumference four feet from the ground, and many of equal dimensions were seen in the neighborhood. A considerable portion of the timber is burnt, and the underbrush everywhere shows a profusion of hazel nut, and small shrubs and plants, such as raspberries, blue berries, gooseberries, and strawberries, all of which were here gathered ripe: The Labrador tea (ledum palustre) was in great profusion in particular spots, and at the termination of the portage, near the height of Land Lake, the fragrant Indian tea plant (ledum talifolium) abounded in the moss bordering this elevated sheet of water, which is 885 feet above Lake Superior, or 1485 above the sea. 80. The following estimates of the heights of Prairie Portage above the sea, are taken from Sir John Richardson's ^^ Arctic Searching Expedition." (1) Feet. Dog Lake, above Lake Superior 657 Ascent of Dog River 14 Portage to Cold Water Lake 2 West end of Prairie Portage, and Middle Portage. . . . 1«1 Lake Superior above the Sea 641 Height of Prairie or Middle Portage above the sea . . . 1475 (I) Arctic Searching Expedition, — a Journal of ii Boat Voyage through Rupert and the Arctic Sea, in search of the discovery ships under Sir J. Franklin, hj Sir John lliobardtiou, 0. B. : American edition, 1864. 217 area, ation Cold It is ceed- is the imon.— )f fair ihes in ' equal lerable rwhere plants, berries, dor tea f spots, if Land folium) water, le sea. Portage Arctic 11475 jh Rupert iukliu, by 81. "In 1849, the height of the upper end of Dog Portage " was ascertained by me with Delcro's barometer : In the " previous season the aneroid barometer gave 328 feet as the '' height, which was a greater degree of accordance between " the instruments than I generally found. Major Long estimates " the watershed between Lakes Winipeg and Superior, at " 1200 feet above the tide : Major Delafield calculates the *' height of Cold Water Lake at 505, to which if 161 be added "for the Prairie Portage, and 641 for Lake Superior, we have ** 1307 feet for the height of Prairie Portage over the sea: — ** Captain Lefroy, by barometrical measurements, made in con* " nection with the Observatory at Toronto, makes the west end "of Prairie Portage 1361 feet above the sea; but the distance " between the two places of observation renders the result liable ** to some error." Temperaiure of Lakes and Rivers. 82. Table of the temperature of Lakes and Rivers from Lake Superior to the height of land : Name of Lake or River. Lake Superior, SOmilea from land Lake Superior, 4 mllea from the Papa Thundei Bay, 600 yarda from mouth of Current River, Kaminisilquta, opposite the Miaaion Kaminisitquia