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DAVIAULI 
 
 i-M' 
 
 '.-* 
 
/i 
 
 THE 
 
 «}tteIrec-(*i!iirattUit-f«i0uctt«ir 
 
 NOTE-BOOK 
 
p 
 
 SEA BATHING. 
 
 St. Lawrence Hall^ Cacouna. 
 
 rpHIS ESTABLISHMENT Lai btMi «oniid«rably 
 X ENLARGED during tht pa»t winter, aud ig now 
 capable of affording accommodatioa for SxX IIUNDHED 
 GUESTS. Additional laud bai bf«a purchased and laid 
 out in Pleasure Grounds ; it la beaukifully lituated on the 
 Banks of the St. Lawrence, commaDding a fine view of the 
 River ; and tho Steamers und Yesaels pais up and dow^ 
 in close proximity to the plaee. The BATHING 
 accommodation has alio been much improved. Billiard 
 Tables, Bowling Alleys, Ac, Ac, &o., on the premises. 
 Instrumental Band always in attendance. There is a 
 Telegraph Office in the Hotel, an advantage not poisessed 
 by any place on the North Shore ; and with the advantage 
 ot Railroad and Steamboat conveyance daily, it stands 
 unrivalled by any other place of the deicrijitiou in Canada- 
 It is Buperfluous to say more in its favour than the fact that 
 a number ot the raoit prominent citiKens of the Provinceii 
 have there buiU beautiful resldwnccs and occupy them during 
 the Summer months : probably not less than tuubb 
 THOUSAND people arc located here in various cottages. 
 There are three different places of public worship in the 
 village. Stabling has been erected on the premise*, 
 enabling parties to keep their own Horses and Carriages 
 at reasonable rales. Tne Troprietor has also arranged 
 with Mr.ViLLiERB, of Quebec, to take down a Stable of 
 UorKes, and give riding lessons daily ; he has a number of 
 Side Saddles tor the use ot Ladies. Li tact, no pains have 
 been ?pared to render this place a favourite resort during 
 the summer moiitiis. Liberal arrang^ents will be made 
 with parties} remaining the whole or part of the Season. 
 Transient vieitora charged at the rate ot $2.50 per day. 
 
 Messrs. SHIPMAN, JgNR., & KBNLIT, 
 May, 1870. MiNiasRS. 
 
« 
 
 PALjLCB ST3EBT. 
 
 !>IAlir£L BROW]¥l]¥G. manager. 
 
 rr^HB uiuieveigneJ, iu assuming the Management of tlii.s 
 -L popular IIOTKL, begs to intunate hia determiimtion to 
 accommodate his numerous friends and the triivelling public 
 in the best possible manner, aud solicits that patronage fo 
 generously acoortled to hira while proprietor of the 
 OTTAWA HOTEL, MONTREAL. 
 
 JSI&^ T^rms unwitvptionably rmsonable. 
 
 SAmUCI. ISROW:«l!¥€}, 
 
 Latjs tF THE Ottawa Hutkl, 
 May, 1S70. MtNTKHAL. 
 
f 
 
 ST. LOUIS HOTEL, ST. LOUIS STREET, 
 
 ANT) 
 
 RUSSELLS' HOTEL, PALACE STREET, 
 
 'J 
 
 Q XT XS 33 3S O. 
 
 /jnHS ST. ZiOUIS HOTBIJf wliicli is unrivalled 
 
 1 for SIZE, STVLli and LOCALITY, ia (QUEBEC, Ih 
 open only during lUo SEASON ol PliEASUKB TRAVEL. 
 
 It is eligibly situated, uear to and surrounded by the 
 mostdelighiful and fashionable proraeiiadee, the Govkrnor'b 
 Gardek. the CiTAUKL, the Eppl*.nadk, the Placb d'Arsibh. 
 and DcuhamTekuacic, which furnish the splendid views and 
 llagnificeni Sci'n( i} lor which Quebec is bo justly celebrat- 
 ed, and which \h uiiMirpaf^sed in any part of the world. 
 
 The rroprietorp. in returning thanks for the very liberal 
 pdtronage they havt^ hitherto enjoyed, inform the public 
 that theRe HOTKUS have been thoroughly reuovaled and 
 embellished, and can aow accommodate about 500 Visitors ; 
 and aspure ihera that nothing will be wanting on their part 
 that will condaea tu th9 coraforta and enjoyment of their 
 C^neBls. W. RUSliBLL & SON, 
 
 May, 187t. Proprietors. 
 
OI^TSSXjf 
 
 DOMIMIOM OF €Ai\AD.i. 
 
 1MIE UNDERSIONED respwtfifiUy iiWonn their nnmernua <rioii«U 
 RtKl pairoiM io CANADA ami th« IJNITKD STA TK^, Uint l>>- 
 Um rc>«ettt MtiarffenriMit and improTetneiits ofTccted in thiH I'^lHl.ilahfiu ni , 
 lh»jr «r« now prepared lo acc«>nimodato over TflKKli UUlXbKEl) 
 AND FIFTY GUESTS. The OTTAWA IKrri'.L covere the eiiUre 
 8pae« of gr«und running between St. Jiime* and Notre J>aine streol*, 
 aud has two l>eaaUlul Fronta : the one <>ii tbe right ot the nhuve cut 
 repre«<^ta the front «n Noire Duriie ; llie other, on the left, the St 
 .lamM-AtreH Front. Tlie FIousu hus been thoroughly rc-filtt-d and 
 fnrnisiied wHh erery regaixl to eutnfort aixi luxury : hns Hot and 
 vioki- Water, with Uaib« and Closets, <m each floor. The aun haa been 
 to noake thifl the most onexcepiionable FIKST-CLA.'^.S HOTEL iu 
 MONTREAL. Mr. Burnktt trusts that his* large exptrienee ut 
 tirst-dsM Hoteifl m New York City and the l/nited Slate*, will give 
 •onSiknce to his friendv and the TraTeiling I'uMjc that tiiey vrtll 
 rc'Ottire aTvcy eoinibrt and attcntiou at the Ottawa. Notwith^tandiug 
 the targw otuby in Furnishing, Frescoing, aiid other exteuai^e 
 unproTcraenta. th« rharge* per day will be two dollars and a baM. 
 Carnages, Willi attantive dnvera. can be had nt all times, by aiiplicaUtNi 
 atthetrffice. Uoa«lies willaliK) be found uttl:e Kuilway Depot and Steam 
 beat LaiMhiin, oa Ttie arrirnJ of the several Trninsuiid Steamers. 
 
 BURNETT & IX)YLK. Phopribtobjs. 
 
 D. C. BPRNBTT, late Proprietor of Woodhwff Hoosk, VVateitown 
 N.T.,ttnd Hr* Jamoi' Hutb&, Montreal. 
 
 Mo?(TRKAt, Maf, 1670. 
 
 
g^.^ASt^li^ ^(£>'iL>IlIL, 
 
 /imii: UNDERSIGNED be« to notify the PUBLK^ 
 X that thoy havo PL'RCIIASKD the uUovo well-kiiowii 
 
 F[RST-Cl.ASS HOTEL, and which h now carried on a.'* u 
 
 i;i?ANCII KSTADLISHMENT of tlio ST. L-VVVRHXCE 
 
 IIAIJ , und'-rtho mannj];ement, (tf Mr. Samcei, ?.roNTOoMKuy 
 
 (nephiw cf Mr. lin;^iin) and Mi. TuKDEiurK (ii:niKi:N, both 
 
 well-known t'> lli»! Tr;ivcil;ni? commu.iity, both in tbo 
 
 United Stat-'s and (,'jniuhi, ns being connected widi tl)»» St. 
 
 LAwnr.NOK IIaix. 
 
 The ST. JAMl-^>S is very lnvorrthly fitualt;'!, facing 
 Victoria frquare, in the very cenir«» of tho City, und 
 contiguous to ihePor^t Ottico and the Banks. ItHconvcni'-nce 
 for nunines«-men id evrj thing Una can ho dejfired, a.s it is 
 jii the imtnt'diale vicinity of tho loading Wholesale IIousc-j. 
 
 The Rconi!*. beln<; wc'.l apiioint-ul and vi'utilated, are 
 cheerful for FamilieH ; while tbo Menage will always be 
 une.^^ccptiOriable, and no pains .^par^d in niinisteriug to the 
 comfort of Gui-stf. 
 
 The Tropriotors, having loaaed the adjoining promlseH, 
 are prepared to ofler every inducement to the Spring and 
 Fall trade •, and aa their tariff is exceptionably reasonable, 
 th'ey hope to obtain ;i largo share of public patronage. 
 
 MiT, 1870. n. IIOGAN .H CO. 
 
miL, 
 
 rt'eIl-ki)ow!i 
 iod on i\:t ii 
 
 DNTOOMKKV 
 IIKKS, bo(h 
 )ih in tho 
 iih tli.» St. 
 
 Cify, und 
 nvcnifriico 
 tl, as it is 
 
 InU'd, are 
 always be 
 »g to l\Ui 
 
 promiaeH, 
 )ring and 
 iisonable, 
 age. 
 
 ^ CO. 
 
 ip:i^^ ^(DIp ;dii^(s>^. 
 
 Il» H § E t IL H, 
 
 Merchant Tailor, 
 
 HAS ooiistuntly on lianJ a lar<^e asdortmont of 
 lleady-inado Clothye, Hosiery, Sbirts, Collar?, Scarls, 
 
 CJlovef", Slicks, Rubber Goods, Mackiutoihus, INjrte- 
 
 Kanleauz, Valij?cp, Rags, «l'c., Jtc. 
 
 CHAS. HOUGH & SON, 
 
 (Successors to LatelE,D. (<ingi{Ah,; 
 
 H 
 
 No. 20, St. Ursule Street, Quebec, 
 
 AVK always on Ijaiul and for sale, SUMMEE and 
 WINTER VEI11CLF>S, cf every deicription. 
 
 CHAS. HOUGH, 
 
 38, ST, ANN STREET. 
 
 DOUBLE and SINGLE CAURIAGES, Waggons, 
 Saddle Horace, Ac, «tc., can always be bad for^hire 
 at this Establishment. 
 
SSTABLISHBD 1835. 
 
 REJNFREW & MARCOU, 
 
 (LATE HENDERSON' & RENFREW,) 
 
 20, BUADE STREET, QUEBEC, 
 
 Opposite the French Cathedral. 
 
 OUR SHOW ROOMS, 
 
 Open during the SummcQ', 
 
 CcntaiQ one of tlie LARGEST and MOST VALUABLE 
 
 STOCKS of 
 
 ^ 
 
 m '^- 
 
 ^^ 
 
 CONSISTING OF 
 
 Hudsou Itay and Russia Sable Setts, 
 SEALKSIN SACQUTfS, 
 
 BEARSKIN m mm fox sleigh robes, 
 
 Moccasins. Snowshoes, and Indian Curiosities. 
 
 BEST LONDON-MADE 
 
 Umbrellas, Walking Canes and 
 
 WATERPROOF CLOTHINa, 
 AU Hi tlif^ .ir.!>w<^^t Fo^etihlo Prt€c;4, 
 
cou, 
 
 lEBEC, 
 
 al. 
 
 [)MS, 
 
 VALUABLK 
 
 ^Ic Setts, 
 
 GH ROBES, 
 
 uriosities. 
 
 ties and 
 
 ST. L ATTP-EnCB HALLi 
 
 SITUAT£0 ON ST. JAMES STREET, 
 
 11- :BE3COC3fc-.-[^2Xr, I*rox:>r±otox'- 
 
 rpiIIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL (the LARGEST in 
 X MONTREAL,) is situated on St. Jamei^ Street, in the 
 immediate vicinity ot tiie French Catbeura), or Church Ville 
 Marie, Notre Dame Street, adjacent to the Post Office. 
 Place d'Armea and Banks ; is only one minute's walk from 
 (Jrey or Black Nunneriep, New Court House, Reading 
 Rooms, Cham^> de Mars (where the troop:* are reviewed), 
 Mechanics* Inetitute, Bon&ecours Market, and Fashionable 
 Stores. The new Theatre Royal ia directlj in rear of the 
 House, and several of the best boxen are regularly kept for 
 guests of this Hotel. The ST. LAWRENCIO HALL has 
 long been regarded as the most popalar and fashiooable 
 Hotel in Montreal, and ia patronized by the Government 
 on all public occasions, including that ol the vioit of His 
 Royal Highness the Prince of Wales and fuile, and that of 
 His Excellency the Governor General and suite. During 
 the past winter, the Hotel has been considerably enlarged, 
 80 that in future the Proprietoi hopes to be able to 
 accommodate comlortably all who may favour hl.a with 
 their patronage. All Rooms lighted by Gas. 
 
 The Consulate Offitje of the United States is in the Hotel, 
 as well as Telegraph Office to all parts. 
 
 The Proprietor begs to announce that having r-icohtly 
 pa-chased the ST. LAWRENCE HALL property, it is hia 
 intention next Fall to pull down and rebuild with all 
 th« modern improvements, including an Elevator ; thus 
 making this Hotel second to none in the B^nited li»t«tes. 
 
 MosTRBAL, May, 1870. 
 
QUEBEC-CACOUNA-SAaUENAY. 
 
 
 As no special guide has hitherto been piiblishcd 
 descriptive of this route, it is deemed expedient to draw the 
 attention of American Tourieta to the romantic and 
 beantifui scenery in this part of Northern Canada. 
 Tavties visiting Canada without raalsing this tour, lose 
 one of the grandest features of their trip : Quebec, 
 one of the oldest cities in America, famous for its 
 battle-fields, monuoients, fortifications, &c., with a view 
 from the heights of Abraham unequalled. The Hoteh% 
 Si. Louis and Russell House, k?pt hj Raspell Bros*., have 
 been thoroughly renovated during the past winter with 
 ample ftcoommodation,and are equal in every respect to any 
 in Canada ; from thonce coutinuing their journey to the 
 far-famed Saguenay, do.vn the most beautiful part of the 
 St. Lawrence River, calling at Murray Bay and JRiviere du 
 L»up, at the latter place taking the omnibusses for 
 Caoodjj A, the most celebrated watering place on the Lower 
 Si Lawrence, and acknowledged by eminent medical men to 
 be one of the most healthy summer reports on this continent, 
 having an Hotel (the St. Lawrence Hall) capable of 
 accommodating 6t)0 guests; from thence across to Tadousac, 
 from which point they ascend the Sagueuay River, the 
 romantic scenery of which must be 8f?en \,z be appreciated, 
 pMislng Cape Trinity, the admiration of all tr,*. jllerf. lu 
 faet, the whole scenery of this route is of the most 
 pietarerqne description, full of variety, and keeping the 
 minds of Tourists thoroughly absorbed in admiration during 
 th» entire trip. Salmon and trout fishing to be had in tbe 
 vicinityof Cacouna. The splendid steamers Union and Magnet 
 leave Qaebec fo«* the Saguenay every Tuesday, Wednesday, 
 Friday and Saturday. Caoocna can be reached also by Grand 
 Tronk Railroad, as special trains run daily from Quebec to 
 Rividreda Loup, at which station omnibusses and carriages 
 a e in waitiog to convey parties to the Hotel. For lime of 
 departare, distances, rates of fare. Ac. see page 28. 
 
 i O 
 
JBNAY. 
 
 ?u published 
 t to draw the 
 mautic and 
 irn Canada. 
 i.s tour, lose 
 ip : Quebec, 
 ous for its 
 wlt-h a view 
 The HoteU\ 
 1 Bios>., have 
 winter with 
 Bppect to any 
 rney to the 
 1 part of the 
 d Biviere du 
 nibupses for 
 •n the Lower 
 dical men to 
 lis continent, 
 
 capable of 
 to Tadoueac, 
 
 River, the 
 appreciated, 
 ;*v oilers. lu 
 ►f the most 
 keeping the 
 ation daring 
 }e had in the 
 Hand Magnet 
 , Wednesday, 
 IgQ by Grand 
 m Qaebec to 
 nd carriages 
 For time of 
 28. 
 
 <^xjii:3b:ko: 
 
 AS «KEN lY iMERICAN, ICXOMSH, FRRKCH, AND OAKADIAN 
 
 WRITERS OF XOTE. 
 
 '■ft 
 
 QgKBKC, founded by Samuel de Chainplain, ia 1608, 
 Ims certainly inucli to recommend itself^ by liistorioal 
 metnoriea and bv scenerv, to the traveller—the 
 scliolar — the historian. The wintormgof the venture- 
 some Jacques Garlier on tiie ban'cs of the St. Charlee, 
 in 1535-6, by its remoteness, is an incident of interest not 
 only to Canadians, but also to every denizen of 
 America. It takes one back to an era nearly coeval with 
 the discovery of the continent by Columbus — much ante- 
 rior ^0 the foundation of Jamestown, in 1607 — anterior to 
 that of St. Augustine in FloriJa, in 1592. Quebec has, 
 then, a right to call herself an old, a very old, city of 
 the west. 
 
 The colonization of Canada, or, as it was fornidrly 
 called, New F»'ance, was undertaken by companies of 
 French merchants engaged in the fur trade, close on 
 whose steps followed a host of devoted missionaries, who 
 lound in the forests of this new and attractive country 
 ample scope for the exercise of their religious enthusiasm. 
 It was at Quebec that these Christian heroes landed ; 
 fron) hence, thev started for the forest primeval, the 
 bearers of the olive branch of Christianity, of civilization. 
 
 A fatal mistake) committed at the outset by the 
 French commanders, in taking part in the Indian wars, 
 more than once brought the incipient colony to the verge 
 cl ruin : during these periods scores of devoted missionaries 
 
s 
 
 -5W*i:. 
 
 SI 
 
 fell uuJer tlieecalpincr-knifeor anihl.*t incredible torture?, 
 amongst the mercileaa savai^es whom (lioy had come to 
 reclaim. Iiuiian massacres became so IVcijuent, so 
 appalling, tliat on several occasion- tii'.' J'rench thought 
 of giving up the colony for ever. The rivalry between 
 France and EnglanVl added to the hardships and dangers 
 of tlio k\v hardy colonists estal-lislicd at Quebec. Its 
 environF, the shores of its noble river, more thati once 
 became the battle-fields of Europe. oi armies. These were 
 eventful periods— happily gone by, -.ve liope, forever. 
 
 In l]is ^'Pioneers of France In ilic Keio IVorld,^^ the 
 gifted Fr?. Parkman mournfully reviews the vanished 
 glories of old France in her fornior vast dominions in 
 America : 
 
 ''The French dor.union is a memory of the past; and 
 when we wake its departed shale , they rise upon us 
 from their graves in strange romantic guise. Again 
 tlieir ghostly camp-iires seem to burn, and the fitful liglit 
 is cast around on lord and vassal and black-robed priest, 
 mingled with wild forms of savage warriors, knit in close 
 fellowship on the same stern erran 1, a boundless vision 
 grows upon us : an untamed continent ; vast wastes of 
 forest verdure ; mountams silent ia primeval sleep ; 
 river, lake, and glinunering pool ; wilderness oceans 
 mingling with the sky : such was the domain which 
 France conquered fi;r civiHzation. Plumed helmets 
 gleamed in the shade of its forests; priestly vestments in 
 its dens and fastnesses of ancient barbarism. Men steeped 
 in antique learning, pale with the close breath of the 
 cloister, here spent tlie noon and evening of their lives, 
 ruled savage hordes with a mild, parental sway, and 
 $tood serene before the direst shapes of death. Men of 
 a courtly nurture, heirs to the polish of a far-reaching 
 anceatry, here, witli thoir daun(lG=!s hardihood, put to 
 
ilible torture?, 
 
 luid come to 
 
 IVeiiuent, so 
 
 eiich tliought 
 
 valry between 
 
 s and dangers 
 
 Qncd^cc. Its 
 
 )re tlian onco 
 
 . These were 
 
 ', forever. 
 
 World,'' the 
 
 tlio vanished 
 
 dominions in 
 
 tlie past ; and 
 rise upon us 
 guise. Again 
 the fitful light 
 \ robed priest, 
 ?, knit in close 
 jndloss vision 
 ast wastes of 
 nieval sleep ; 
 srness oceana 
 loniain which 
 uneJ helmets 
 ' vestments in 
 Men steeped 
 yreath of the 
 of their lives, 
 tal sway, and 
 !uth. Men of 
 a far-reaching 
 hood, put to 
 
 9 
 
 Of all this might) empire of the pai^t, Quebec was the 
 undisputed capital, the fortrc.«f^:, the key-«tone. 
 
 It would be a cuii' wi study to place in juxta position 
 tlie impression."! pru'uced o\\ Tourisitfl by the view of 
 Quebec arid its environs — from Jacques Cp.rticr, tlie 
 discoverer of Canada, 'lown to Wiliiatn Howard Russell — 
 ]3ulMiun Rusj-ell. 
 
 Cham[)lain, La Poiherio, La Hontan, Le Beau, Du 
 (."reux (Creuxius), Pder Kalm, Knox, Silliman, Ampere, 
 Mrn. Moodie, Antnuny Trollope, Sula, llevd. Henry Ward 
 Reecher, have all 'eft their impressions of the 
 rocky citadel. 
 
 Mrs. Moodie (Susanna Strickland); in lier sketches of 
 Canadian life, graphically delineates her trip from Grosse 
 lale to Quebec, and ilio appcaruuce of the city itselt from 
 he river : 
 
 <' On the 22nd of September (1832), the anchor was 
 weighed, and we bade a lr]g farewell to Grosse Isle. 
 As our vessel struck into mid channel, I cast a last 
 lingering look at the beautiful shores we were leaving. 
 Cradled in the arms o( the St. Lawrence, and basking 
 in the bright rays of the morning sun, the island and its 
 sister group lookeil like a sec<jnd Eden just emerged 
 from the waters of chaos. The dav was warm, and the 
 cloudless heavens of that peculiar azure tint which 
 gives to the Canadian skies and waters a brilliancy 
 unknown in more northern latitudes. The air was pure 
 and elastic ; the sun shone out with uncommon 
 splendour, lighting up the changing woods with a ricli 
 mellow colouring, composed of a thousand brilliant and 
 vivid dyes. The mighty river rolled Hashing and 
 sparkling onward, impelled by a stro!ig breeze that 
 tipped its short rolling surges witli a crest of fnowy foam. 
 
10 
 
 ll 
 
 '■il 
 
 
 ''Never shall I forget that short voyage from Grosse 
 lele to Quebec. What wonderful combinations of beauty 
 and grandeur and power, at every winding of that noble 
 river I 
 
 ^' Every perception of my mind became absorbed into 
 the one sense of seeing, when, u^n rounding Point Levi, 
 we cast anchor before Quebec. What a scene 1 Can 
 the world produce another.? Edinburgh had been the 
 beau ideal to me of all that was beautiful in nature — a 
 vision of the Northern Highlands had haunted my 
 dreams across the Atlantic ; but all these past 
 recollections faded before ihe pretent of Qyxeheo. Nature 
 has ransacked all our grandest elements to form this 
 astonishing panorama. There frowns the cloud-capped 
 mountain, and below, the cataract foams and thunders j 
 woods and rock and river combine to lend their aid in 
 making the picture perfect, and worthy of its Divine 
 originator. The precipitous bank upon which the city 
 lies piled, reflected in the still, deep waters at its base, 
 greatly enhances the romantic beauty of the situation. 
 The mellow and Ferene glow of the autumn day 
 harmonized so perfectly with tbe solemn grandeur of the 
 scene around me, and sank so silently and deeply into 
 my soul, that my spirit fell prostrate before it, and I 
 melted involuntarily into tear?." 
 
 Such the poetic visions which were awakened in the 
 poetic mind of the brilliant autiior of '* Roughing it in 
 the Bush.^^ 
 
 A distinguished French lltleyateiir, fresh from the 
 sunny banks of the Seine, thus discourses anent tlie 
 ancient capital ; we translate : 
 
 "Few cities," eays M. Marmicr, (I) ''offer as many 
 striking contrasts as Qu-ibec, a fortress and a commercial 
 city together, built upoa the summit of a rock as the 
 
 (1) Littns sur I'Amiriguu : X. Marmier, Paris, 1860. 
 
 y^ k 
 
11 
 
 rom Grosse 
 tns of beauty 
 f that noble 
 
 baorbed into 
 
 I Point Levi, 
 scene 1 Can 
 had been the 
 
 II nature — a 
 haunted my 
 
 these past 
 bee. Nature 
 to form this 
 cloud-capped 
 nd thunders J 
 their aid in 
 
 of its Divine 
 jch the city 
 at its base, 
 the situation, 
 lutumn day 
 andeurof the 
 
 deeply into 
 'fore it, and I 
 
 ened in the 
 oughlng it in 
 
 !8ii froni the 
 see anent the 
 
 ffifer as ujany 
 a commercial 
 rock as the 
 
 Paris, 1860. 
 
 nest of au eagle, while her vessehi are everywhere 
 wrinkling the face of the ocetin ; au American city 
 inhabited by French colonist?, governed by England, 
 and garrisoned with Scotch regiments; (1) a city of the 
 nuddleagcT by most of its ancient institutions, while it is 
 subnutted to all the combinations of modern constitutional 
 government; an European city by its civilization and 
 its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants 
 of the Indian tribes and the barren mountains of the 
 north; a city with about the same latitude as Paris, 
 while Fucce^sively combining the torrid climate of 
 southern regions with the severities of an hyperboreftn 
 winter: a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, 
 where the labours of our (French) missions are still 
 uninterrupted alongside of the undertakings of the Bible 
 Society, and where the Jesuits driven out of our own 
 country (France) find a place of refuge under the regis of 
 British Puritanism !" 
 
 An American tourist thus epitomises the sights: 
 
 '' As the seat of French power in America until 1759, 
 the great fortress of English rule in British America, 
 and the key of the St. Lawrence, Quebec must possess 
 interest of no ordinary character for well-informed 
 tourists. To the traveller there are innumerable points 
 and items vastly interesting and curious :— The citadel and 
 forts of Cape Diamond, with their impregnable ramparts 
 that rival Gibraltar in strength and endurance against 
 siege ; the old walls of the city and their gates, each of 
 which has its legend of war and bloody assault and 
 repulse ; the plains of Abraham, every foot of which is 
 commemorated with blood and battle ; Wolfe's 
 monument, where the gallant and brave soldier died 
 with a shout of victory on his lips ; the Martello toweta, 
 with their subterranean communications with the 
 citadel ; the antique churches, paintings, and ail her 
 paraphernalia, treasures, and curiosities that are 
 religiously preserved therein ; the falls of Montrcorenci ; 
 
 (I) The Highlanders— 78th, 79lb, and 93id, 
 
 ik 
 
m 
 
 12 
 
 the uatural etep.^ ; Montcalm's house, and a tbouRauJ 
 other reliod ol" the mysterious past that has hallowed 
 these vvitli all the mystic interest that attaches to 
 antiquity, great deeds, and beautiful memories. To see 
 all these, a touri«t requires at least two dj ys' time ; and 
 surely no one who prctcnJs to be a traveller, in these 
 days of rapid transit, will fail to visit Quebec, the best 
 city, the most hospitable place, and richer in its wealth 
 of rare eights and grand old memorials, French 
 peculiarities and English oddities, than any other city 
 on this broad continent." 
 
 1" 
 
 Mi 
 
 '}:m 
 
 V 
 
 Hark to the sensational utterances of a real live New 
 Yorker, Henry Ward Beecher : 
 
 '^ Queer old Quebec ! — of all the cities on the continent 
 of America, the quaintest. * * * It is a populated cliff. 
 Itis a mighty rock, scarped and graded, and made to hold 
 houses and castles which, by all proper natural laws, 
 ought to slide off from its back, like an ungirded load 
 irom a camel's back. But they stick. At the foot of 
 the locks the space of several streets in width has been 
 stolen from the river. * » * "We landed. * * ♦ 
 
 '' Away we went, clin bing the steep streets atacanter 
 with little horses hardly bi:zger than flies, with an aptitude 
 for climbing perpendicular walls. It was strange to 
 wnter a walled city througli low and gloomy gates, on 
 this continent of America. Here was a small bit of 
 mediaeval Europe perched upon a rock, and dried for 
 keeping, in this north-east corner of America, a curiosity 
 tliat has not its equal, in its kind, on this side of the 
 ocean. ****** 
 
 '' "We rode about as if we were in a picture-book, 
 turning over a new leaf at each street f * ♦ • • xhe 
 place should always be kept old. Let people go 
 somewhere else for modern improvements. It is a shame, 
 when Quebec placed herself far out of the way, up in the 
 very neighbourhood of Hudson's Bay, that it should be 
 hunted and harassed with new-fangled notions, and all 
 the charming inconveniences, and the irregularities fo 
 
13 
 
 i a ibouRaud 
 has hallowed 
 attaches to 
 Dries. To see 
 ysi' time ; and 
 ;ller, in theee 
 ebec, tlic best 
 in its wealth 
 ialp, French 
 nv other city 
 
 real live New 
 
 the continent 
 3pulated clilF. 
 
 made to hold 
 natural laws, 
 uno:irded load 
 t tjie foot of 
 KJtli has been 
 led. * * * 
 
 ets at a canter 
 Ji an aptitude 
 Ls strange to 
 iiy gates, on 
 I small bit of 
 md dried for 
 ;a, a curiosity 
 lis side of the 
 
 picture-book, 
 * * • The 
 iet people go 
 It ia a shame, 
 vay, up in the 
 it should be 
 ions, and all 
 regularities to 
 
 narrow and tortuous utreets, thai ho t!elij;hl a trdvelltr's 
 eyes, aliould be altere<l to suit the fantrwtic notions of 
 modern people. *•*••« 
 
 ^' Our stay in Quebec was t )0 short by far. Hut it was 
 long enough to make it certain that we shall come back 
 again. A stnnmer in Catiada would f(»rm one of the 
 most delightful iiolidays that we can imagine. We mean 
 to prove our sincerity by uur conduct. And then, if itia 
 not all that cmr imagination promisea?, wo will write 
 again and conlctss." (I) 
 
 Professor Benjamin Silli laii di^conrsea thua: 
 
 *^ A seat of ancient dominion — now hoary with the 
 lapse of more than two ceituriea — fornjerly the seat of a 
 French empire in the west— lo»«t, aixl won by the blood 
 of gallant armies, and of illustrious commanders — 
 throned on a rock, and defended by all the proud defiance 
 of war! Who could approach such a city without 
 emotion ? Who in Canada has nut longed to cast his 
 eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec?'" — 
 (Sii.liman's Tour in Canada.) 
 
 Let us complete this mosaic of descriptions and literary 
 gems, borrowed from English, French, and American 
 writers, by a sparkling tableau of the historic memories 
 of Quebec, traced by a loavling French Canadian 
 lilieraimr, the author ol Charles GuGriu : 
 
 ^'History i;? everywhere— around us — ben«»iith ua ; 
 from the depths of yonder valleyn, from the top of that 
 mountain, history rises up and presents it.^elt to our 
 notice, exclaiming : ' Behold me !' 
 
 ^njeneath u^, among the capricious meanders of the 
 River St. Charles, the Cahir Coubat of Jacques-Cartier, 
 is the very place where he first planted tht- u'oss and 
 held ills fir.^t conference with the Seiynmr Donaconna. 
 
 (1) Xf^w-Vork Ledger. 
 
14 
 
 Hero, vtry uear to ud, beneath a veneraLlo elii« tree, 
 wliicii, with much regret, we paw cut down, tradition 
 fitutee that Cliamplaiii first raisoil his tent. From the 
 vary Rpot on which we now stand, Count de Frontcnac 
 returned to Admiral Phippy tliat i)roud answer, as he Haid, 
 from the mouth of his cannon, which will always 
 remain recorded hy iiistory. Under these ramparts are 
 Hpread the plains on which fell VVollo and Montcalm, 
 and where, in the followinj^ year, tho Clievalier de Levis 
 and General Murray fought that other battle, in memory 
 of which the citizens of Quebec are erecting* (in 1B54) a 
 monument. Before u.«, on the heights of Beauport, the 
 «ouvcnira of battles not less heroic, recall to our remem- 
 brance the names of Longueuil, St. IlelcVne, and Juche- 
 reau Duchesnay. Below uh, at the foot of that tower on 
 which floatrfi the British flag, Montgomery and Ids 
 eoldiera all fell, swept by the grape-bhot of a single gun 
 pointed by a Canadian artilleryman. 
 
 *'0n the other hand, umier that projecting rock, now 
 crowned with the gnns of old I]ngland, the intrepid 
 Danjbourges, sword in hand, drove Arnold and hie men 
 from tho houses in which they had established 
 themselves. History is then everywhere around us. She 
 rises as well from these ramparts, replete with daring 
 deeds, as from those illustrious plains equally celebrated 
 fur feats of arms, and shi again exclaims: 'Hero 1 
 
 ^.m: 
 
 V M 
 
 Cosmopolite. 
 
HlDts to Tonrists Visitiai Oneliec. 
 
 — *'»"fc'^ •v. -^ -^^^ 
 
 liiera IB r nmgniflcent line of eteamers leuviuir 
 Montreal every evening, at 7 p.m., and reaching Quebec 
 at A.M. In Mluon to these floating palaces, equal to 
 hose on the IluJaon, the Grand Trunk Kaihvay 
 Company run two train, per day to Quebec fron. 
 Montreal, 
 
 Living is ooniparatively cheap, and hotel accommoda- 
 tion 18 as good as any Canadian city can furnish. There 
 are at Quebec several dozens of minor hotels, and some 
 extensive oneP, such as Noonan'e, Henchey'n, Frechette's 
 and Blanchard's Hotels, without counting the Jar^e 
 Victoria Hotel at South Quebec. Two newlv-furnished 
 vast hotela-the St. Louis Hotel and the Russell House,' 
 kept on the American principle-have, of course, froin 
 their size, the first claim on the traveller's attention • 
 and the rush of visitors at these hotels during the 
 summer months imfliciently testifies to the comfort and 
 civility, wiJch await the traveller. The Messrs. 
 Rusee!l-two obliging Americans-have ^wcceedcd and 
 ^deserve to succeed, as hosts. 
 
 The city and environs abound in drives varying from 
 fi^e to thirty miles, in addition to being on the direct 
 line of travel to the far-famed Saguenay, Murray Bay, 
 Kamouraska, Cacouna, Rimouski, Gasp^, and other 
 noted watering places. 
 
 Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of those 
 who like to yacht, fish, or shoot. Yachting, in fact, has 
 become of late quite ai) institutidn. You oan on those 
 
1(> 
 
 I 
 
 mellow Saturday aftornoons in An;^»iPt and Sepleinbor, 
 jnootthc wliole •sporting and Kvj<liio!i;vl)le world of the Upper 
 'J'mvn on the Diirhiun Tcrraoc or Lower Town wharvcf, 
 liiMit on wihu'-'Hin;4 atrial of .''pccil urHoaniansliij) hetwcen 
 tli(j Mnudtr, t!io Hhirk Ifdirk, the Wasp^ the Shanno'n, 
 the noit llommc liicliard, and half a Hcorc of crack 
 yachts and their uwnerr'. 
 
 Let us see what the city contains: — First, the west wing, 
 bnilt ahout 1789 hy Governor Haldiniand, to enlarge the 
 o/<H'hateaii burnt <Iown in January, 1831: thin moulder- 
 ing [)ilc, now used as the Xormal School, is all that remains 
 of the stately edifice of old, overhangin*^ and lacing the 
 Cnl-de Sac, where the lordly Count dc Frontenac held 
 his (piaFJ regal court in IG'Jl : next, the Laval Unirersity, 
 founded in IS.'i-l, conferrnig degrees under its royal 
 charter : tiic conr.-e of studies is similar to that of the 
 celebrated European irniversity of Louvain ; then there is 
 the Queliec Seniinary, erected by Jiishop LavaJ, a 
 Montmorency, in ir.r>:>; the Ur.suline Convent, founded 
 in 103G by Madiuno lie la Peltrie : this nunnery, with 
 the R. C. Cathedral, which was built in 1G4G, contains 
 many valuable pointings, which left France about 1789 ; 
 the General Ilosi.iial. founded two centuries af'o bv 
 Moni^eigneiu* de St. \'allier: in 1759, it was the chief 
 hospital for tiie wounded anii the dying during the 
 memorable battle of the 1 3th September — Arnold and 
 Viis continentalK found protection against the rigors of a 
 Canadian winter behind its walls in 1775-G ; the 
 UoUllHtu nunnery, close to Palace Gate, dating more 
 than two lumdrcd years back. 
 
 As to the views to be obtained from Durham Terrace, 
 the Glacis and the Citadel, they are unique in grandeur, 
 each street has it* own familiar vij-ta of the 6»r- 
 
 f 
 
 f» 
 
n 
 
 / 
 
 (» 
 
 rounding country. It is verily, as Henry Ward Hecohcr 
 well •xpree803 it, " like turnin;^ over the leaves of a 
 |jicturelioolv." 
 
 A city crowning the sunnnit vl a lofty capo inuat 
 nec«tiBarily Le ariluuus of access: and when i: is 
 rt'niernh«red how irregular is the j^^^^^^^^f^ <J" which it 
 stand?, havinj; vet for thoron;:ht!irea the identical Indian 
 j)atha (A Stadacona, or the narrow avenuea aiul 
 u{)proachee of its fir^t PCttleiH in 1G08, it Mould be vain 
 to hope tor regalarity, breadth, and beauty, in etrtets 
 such ati !nany modern cities can glory in. It is yet m 
 its leading features a city ol the 17th century, — a quaint, 
 curiouH, drowsy, but healthy location for l-'-'nun being* ; 
 a cheap place of abode ; if you like a crenelated fort, 
 with loop-holes, grim-looking old gun?, sentrieF, pyramids 
 of shot and phell: such the H|.cctaclc high up in the 
 ■kicB, in the airv locality called the Tjijier Town. 
 Some hundred feet below, it exhibits a crowded mart of 
 eonimerce, with vast beaches, where ralta of timber 
 innumerable rest in safety, a few perches from where a 
 whole fleet of Great Kasimis might float secure, on the 
 waters of the famed river. The two main roads outside 
 the city, the St. Foy and St. Lewis lloads, are lined with 
 the country seats of successful Quebec merchants, 
 judges, professional men, retired English ofTicers, &c. 
 
 On his way from the St. Louis Hotel, Louis street, the 
 tourist notices, a few steps to the west, the antiquated one- 
 story house where Brigadier-General Richard Montgomery 
 wai laid out after being found in his snowy sla-oud at 
 Pree-de-Ville, Slst December, 1775. This decayed old 
 dwelling is but one story high. In 1775, it belonged to 
 one Gobert, a eooper ; and Brigdr.-Ceneml Montgnmory* s 
 
 
18 
 
 tl 
 
 A 
 
 reniai ns, after liaviug been Iiientifie J by Mr9. Miles Prentice 
 by a scar on hia face, were deposited there, and removed 
 on tlie 4tli January, 177G, to be buried near the bastion 
 at Louis Gate. Mr. L. G. Baillairgc, advocate, the 
 })resent owner of tliis bouse, has commemorated this 
 incident by an inscription oti it, visible to every beholder. 
 
 After passing tlie Drill-Shed, the Military Home, the 
 Jjadies' Protestant llome, facingSt. Bridget's Asylum, and 
 adjoining the area which the Quebec Seminary intended 
 to lay out as a Botanical Garden, the Jehu, amidst most 
 n^iraculous details of the great battle, soon lands liis 
 pa??enger on the Plains of Abraham, close to the little 
 juonuruent wl-^oh marks the spot where James Wolfe, 
 the British hero, cxpireJ, near to the well from which 
 water was procured to moisten his parched lips. A few 
 minutes more brin.iis one to Mr. Price's villa, Wolfe-field, 
 wliere may be seen the rugged path up the St. Denis 
 burn, by which the Highlanders and English soldiers 
 gained a footing above, on that 13th September, 1759, 
 destined to revolutionize the new world : the British, were 
 piloted in their ascent of the St. Lawrence by a French 
 prisoner of war brought with them from England — Denis 
 de Vitr6, a Quebec mariner. Their landing at Sillery 
 was selected by Major Robert Stobo, who had, in May, 
 1759, escaped from a French prison in Quebec, and joined 
 his countrymen, the English, at Louisbourg, from whence 
 he took ship again to meet Saunders' fleet at Quebec. 
 The tourist next drives past Thornhill, Sir Francis 
 Ilincks' old home, when Premier to Lord Elgin ; opposite 
 . appear the leafy glades of Spencer Wood, so grateful a 
 summer retreat, that my Lord used to say, '* There he 
 not only loved to live, but would like to rest thero his 
 
 ) 
 
.f 
 
 19 
 
 bones." Next comes Spencer Orange, th, seat of J. M. 
 LeMo,ne,E.q. ; tl.en WooJfielJ, the homesteaJofthellon. 
 Z"l i\'PP^'^' '" 1847, novv of Meters. John L. and Jaa. 
 Uibb. The eve next Jwcll. on the little rustic chapel of St. 
 Alicha^, en,bowcre.l in evergreens ; close to which Ioon>s 
 out,at5o«,*s Hois, the .stately convent of Jems- Marie ■ 
 
 ZT ■'^V'',"r'"""'""'^'''^-^'"" ''' 'f you enter be'. 
 >on,l the sec uJe,i portals of Benn.ore, Co!. Rhodes' conn- 
 
 ry seat ; Clermont, Beauvoir, Kilmarnock, Cataraqui 
 lulgraston IMU., Meadow Bank, ic, until, aaec a 
 nme-m^les' drive, Redclyffe clones the rural landscape- 
 Kedclyfie on the top of the cape of Cap Rouge, where 
 many .nd.cations yet mark the .pot where Roberval's 
 ephemeral colony wintered as far back as 1542 You 
 can now. If you hke, return to the city by the san.e road, 
 0. selec the St. Foy Road, skirting the classic heigius 
 where General Murray, six n,onths alter the first battle 
 o. thePhn,., lo.t the .second, on 28th April, 17C0; the 
 ^t. Foy Church was then occupied by the British soldiers, 
 iour gaze next rests on Holland House, Montgomery's 
 beadquarters in 1775, behind which is Holland Tree 
 overshadowing, as of yore, ihe grave of the Hollands. ' 
 
 The view, from the St. Foy road, of the n,eandering 
 ht. Charles below, especially during the high tiJ.-. is 
 eorneth.ng to be remembered. The tourist shortly after 
 detects the iror. pillar, surmounted by a bronze statue of 
 Uellona, presented iu 1855 by Prince Napoleon Bonaparte 
 —intended to commemorate the fierce struggle of 28th 
 -\pril, 17G0. in close vicinity appear the brigTtpartd'ri^i 
 or i,mbrageou.s groves of Bellevue, Han.wood. Bijou, 
 Westfield, Sans-Bruif, and the dark gothio arolies of 
 the Fmlay Asylum ; and the traveller re-enters by S' 
 
20 
 
 M 
 
 4' *■■ 
 
 .It »• 
 
 John's BubiirbS; with tli@ broad basin of the 8t. Charles 
 andtlie pretty L*land of Orbana atariug him iu the face. 
 Drive down next to see tlie Montmorency Falls and the 
 little room which tlie Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria'g 
 father, occupied in 171)1. A trip to the Island o^ 
 Orleans in the ferry will also repay trouble ; it costs 
 next to nothing ; half an hour of brisk ateanning will do 
 it. The Island contain? passable hotel accommodation. 
 Cross then to St. Joseph, Levi, per ferry steamer, and go 
 and behold the most complete, the most formidable, as 
 to plan, the most modern eartluvorka in the vrorld, making 
 you forgetthose of Antwerp. Three regiments of soldiers 
 were busily engaged erecting these forts, from which, 
 at a point to the north-east, a plunging fire ^rom above 
 can be brought to bear, which would sink the most 
 invulnerable iron-clad in the world. The military band« 
 {j.tti-act many visitors to the forts on the days on which 
 they play. 
 
 A trip to the Chaudicre Falls, nine miles distant, 
 cannot be o:niitcd, — no more than a drive to Lake St. 
 Charles by Indian Lorette, and a sail in a birch canoe 
 to ihe rocky shores of Echo Bay. Diverge to the east, 
 and drive to Lake iJeauporl, to luxuriate on its red 
 trout 5 but mind you stop on your return and tal^e a 
 caulker of Glenlivet or old Bourbon or Sillery Mouseeux 
 on the baiike of the trout stream, next to the Hermitage, 
 at Charlesbourg. Step in to the Chateau ; sit down, 
 like Volney amidst the ruins of Palmyra, and meditate 
 on Wie romantic, though unhappy, fate ot dark-eyed 
 Caroline, Bigot's Rosamond, (1) some hundred years 
 ago. You iniagine you have seen everything; not so, 
 my (riend ! Tell your driver to let you out, opposite 
 
21 
 
 UittgfiilJ, ou the Charleabourg road, aud, if at komc, 
 Mr. G. II. Parke, the obliging proprietor, will surely 
 grant you leave to visit the extineiv* earthwork?, 
 behind his residence, raised by Montcalm in 1Y59— so 
 appropriately called Ringfield. Hurry back to town in 
 time to accept that invitation to dine at the Club ; tlien, 
 ppend the evening agreeably at the Morrin College, in 
 the cosy rooms o( the Literary and Historical Society, 
 and retire early, preparing yourself for the great 
 campaign of the morrow. To the Lakes I To the Lakes ! 
 Here are a few of them : Lake Calvaire, at St. Augustin ; 
 Lake St. Joseph, Lac a la Truite, Lac rhilip, Lac 
 Jaunc, Snow Lake, Lac Blanc, Lac Sudmiestj Lac 
 Vincent, Lac TJiomas, Lac Claire, Lake Mackenzie, 
 Lake Sagamite, Lake Burns, Lake Bonnet — all within 
 a lew hours' drive from Quebec, with the exception of 
 Snow Lake. It is not uncommon to catch trout 
 weighing from 121bs. to 201bs. in Lake SL Joseph and 
 Snow Lake, during the winter months. Cosmopolite. 
 
 (1) You can peruke Carolino'a very pathetic tale in that 
 repository of Canadian lore, Maplo Leaves, which you will 
 find a trustworthy guide for objects without the city; whilst 
 Hawkins's Historical Vtcturc of Quebec (the new edition) 
 wlil, in language most classic, enlighten you as to what 
 Quebec contain?, or did contain, within its oUi walls. 
 
THE RIVER SAGUENAY AND ITS SALMON FISHING. 
 
 r » ■! 
 
 Methinks the spirits of the hruve, 
 Who oil thy banks have found a grave, 
 
 Sliil linger. loath to fly ; 
 And on the moanings of the gale 
 .Strange shapes ride forth, all cold and pnl», 
 
 Unseen by iicedless eye. 
 
 Oft in mine ears liath darkly rung 
 Their solemn re(]uieni, softly sung — 
 
 Mysterious, deep, and chill, 
 y\nd, dyinfe' oft. come back again, 
 In sweet, uneartlily, ghostly strain — 
 
 The nioun.fnl nighl-winds o'er the hi!l. 
 
 k K. K. 
 
 The interior of the wild country watered by the River 
 Saguenay, was letter known, strange to say, two liundred 
 years ago, in the days of the Jesuit missionaries 
 Crespeuil and Albanel, than in the present age. Few 
 white men had wandered over these silent wastes which 
 echoed to the war\vhoo})S of the Montagnais and Nascape 
 Intlians, sole masters of tliis boundless territory. 
 
 Jacqaes Cartier had cast anchor, 'tis true, atTa<lousa(j 
 on 1st S(?ptember, 1535. The flattering accounts lie 
 subsequently published, of the mineral riches of the 
 Saguenay country, were derived from the Indian chiel 
 Donacona, who repeated the same assertions when 
 brought in the presence of the French monarcb Francis 
 I. In Champlain's time (IGIO), mention is made of a 
 renowned Montagnais Sagamo, named Anadabijou, who 
 had an interview ^Yith Champlain and Leacarbot, at 
 Poinie-aux-BoulcauX; about one mile west of Tadousac. 
 
 In the course of n^y Waltonian rambles in the lower 
 St. Lawrence, I have seen nature in her blandest forms ; 
 \ have seen her also in all her rugged beauty. No vvherc; 
 
T 
 
 23 
 
 ever, have 1 been more impressed with her grim majesty 
 than in ascenJing the deep, black waters of the Sague- 
 nay. Reader, have you ever felt, on i\ bright June 
 morning, or on a peneive September aRernoon, the awful 
 Bolitude of the spot? Did you ever, in fact, face the 
 '^ terrorsof the Saguenay ?'' Lest I might underrate them, 
 let niiborrovr from an able account, penned by aKuropean 
 tourist (Mr. Wood, the special correspondent of tiie London 
 Times); who recently formed one of the Prince of Wales'.^ 
 party In the English »hip-of-war Flying Fish : 
 
 '' Gloomy black clouds rested on tlie mountains, and 
 seemed to double their height, pouring over the rugged 
 clif!8 in a stream of mist, till, lifting Ruddenly with the 
 hoarse gusts of wind, they allowed short glimpses into 
 what may almost be called the terrors of the Saguenay 
 scenery. It is on such a day, above all othera, that the 
 savage wildness and gloom of thi^ extraordinary riveria 
 Been to the greatest advantage. Sunlight and clear skie.-i 
 are out of place over its black waters, Anything which 
 recalla the life and smde of nature ia not in unison with 
 Uiehuge naked clifFa, raw, cold^ and silent as tombs. An 
 iialian spring could effect no change in its deadly rugged 
 aspect ; nor does winter add an iota to its inournful 
 desolation. It is a river which one should see if only to 
 know what dreadful aspects Nature can assume in her 
 wild moods. Once seen, however, few will care to visit it 
 again, for it is with a sense of relief that the tourist 
 emerges from its sullen gloom, and looks back upon it 
 aa a kind of vault — nature's sarcophagus, where life or 
 sound seems never to have entered. Compared to it, the 
 Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest ravines look cosy 
 and smiling. It is wild without the least variety ,_ and 
 grand apparently in spite of itself : while so utter is the 
 solitude, feo dreary and monotonous the frown of its great 
 black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get 
 impatient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost 
 au antipathy to its very name. Some six miles above is 
 
24 
 
 ii 
 
 r • 
 
 the little town, or, as in England we should call it, village 
 of Tadousac. It is more than 300 years since Jacques 
 Cartier, the discoverer of Canada, the bold adventurer, 
 who, through his misinterpretation of the Indian word 
 ''welcome, ' gave the present name to the country, 
 landed here. It was almost his first real resting-place; 
 and the first mention which we liave of the Saguenay is 
 one which now well befits its savage aspect, for Cartier 
 sent a boat and crew to explore its rocky chasm, wliich 
 were never more heard of. From that day to this, the 
 river has had a name which, allowing for the difference 
 Oi times and creeds, only Styx can equal. At the mouth 
 of the Saguenay the water varies in depth from ten to 
 fiixtren fathoms : but once between the walls of th driver, 
 und the depth from end to end is never less than 100 
 fathoms, generally 150. On either side, at a distance of 
 about a mile apart, tl»e clilTs rise up thin, white, and 
 .straight, varying in perpenJicular height from 1,200 to 
 1,600 feet; and this is the character of the river Saguenay 
 from its mouth to its source. Un the right bank, the 
 clifTs are poorly mantled here and there with stunted 
 pines ; but on the left, llierc is scarcely a sign of life or 
 verdure ; and the limestone rocks stick up white and 
 bleached in the gloomy air, like the bones of an old 
 world. 
 
 ''At two plnces, St. Marguerite and between Capes 
 Trinity and Eternity, where smaller tributaries pour 
 their contributions into the deep, black stream, a breach 
 occur in the wall of rockt<, as if some giant hand had 
 torn them forcibly back, and left them strewn and 
 baffled of their power in uncouth lumps over the valleys 
 beyond. But these are the only openings, the only 
 means of escape, if they may be so called, from the 
 silent gloom of this dread river. The Saguenay seems to 
 want painting, wants blowing up, or drainmg — anything, 
 in short, to alter its morose, eternal, quiet awe. Talk 
 of Lethe or the Styx, they must have been purling brooks 
 compared with this savage river, and a pic-.:iicon the banks 
 of cither would be preforrable to one on the Saguenay! 
 
 I 
 

 Om the occasloti of the rriuce ol Wales' first visit, 
 on the 14th, tli« mist ami niiii hid half its gloo!ii, but 
 more than enough was seen to send the party back to 
 the '' Hero" at about five o'clock wet and dull. There 
 was rather a state dinner on board the flagship that 
 evening, and the Prince, having to be np early the next 
 inor;ing, retired at twelve. 
 
 '^ Before six a.ni, he was again on board the Governor'a 
 sfean)er, and away up the Saguenay to fish. Before he 
 left, Captain Hope, oftlie ''Flying Fish," had received 
 orders to get up steam and take all the officers of the 
 cqnaJron on an excursion up the river. Of course, 
 everybody wished to go, and, as the day was bright and 
 glorious, everybody that could come came. The *' Flying 
 Fish" thus had the hono'vU' of being the first man-of-war 
 that ever passed up the Saguenay, and if the whole^navy 
 of England is sent, I am sure a merrier party will never 
 enter its waters than steamed up on that occasion. Even 
 the Saguenay could not depress their spirits, and if that 
 was not a proof of the zest with which all entered into 
 the day's enjoyment it would be hard to say what was. 
 From St. Marguerite the smart little sloop steamed on 
 to wliere the wild scenery of the river culminates at a 
 little inlet on the right bank between Capes Trinity and 
 Eternity. Tiian these two dreadful headlands nothing 
 can be imagined more grand or more impressive. F'or 
 one brief moment the rugged character of the river is 
 partly softened, and, looking back into the deep valley 
 between the cape.-', the land has an aspect of life and 
 wihl luxuriance which, though not rich, at least seems 
 po in comparison with the grievous, awful barrenness. 
 Cape Trinity on the side towards the landward opening 
 is pretty thickly clothed with fir and birch, mingled 
 together in a colour contrast wliich is beautiful enough, 
 especially when the rocks show out among them, with 
 their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver 
 shining in the sun. But Cape Eternity well b«com«« 
 its name, and is the very reverse of all this. It seems 
 to A'own iri j^JQiyniy itvJigimtion on iU bvofh^r qap© for 
 
 I 
 
26 
 
 
 thf weakH#8S it betrays iu allowing anything likt life or 
 T«rduro to shield its wild, uncouth deformity of Btrtngtb. 
 Cap« Eternity certainly shows no sign of relaxing iu 
 this respect from its deep savage grandeur. It ia one 
 tremendous cliff oMimestone, more than 1500 feet high, 
 and inclining forward nearly 200 feet, brow-beating all 
 beneath it, and seeming as if at any moment it would 
 fall and overwhelm the deep black stream which flowi 
 tlown 60 cold, so deep and motionless below. High up, 
 on its rough gray brown, a few slanted pines shovr like 
 bristles their scathed white arm«, giving an awful weird 
 aspect to the mass, blanched here and thereby ihetempesta 
 of ages, stained and discoloured by little waterfalls, in 
 blotchy and decaying spots, but all speaking mutely of 
 a long-gone time when the Srguenay was old, silent and 
 ;rloomy, before England was known, or the name of 
 Christianity understood. Unlike Niagara, and all other 
 of God's great works in nature, one does not wish for 
 silence or solitud« here. Companionship become! 
 doubly necessary in an awful solitude like this, and 
 though you involuntarily talk in subdued tones, still 
 talk you must, if only to relieve your mind of the feeling 
 of loneliness and desolation which seems to weigh on nil 
 who venture up this stern, grim, watery chasm. 
 
 " The 'Flying Fish' passed under this cape slowly 
 with her yards almost touching the rock, though with 
 more than a thousand feet of water under her. Even 
 the middies and youngsters from the squadron were 
 awe<.l by the scene into a temporary quietness. The 
 solemn and almost forbidJe'i silence at last became too 
 inuch. The party t^aid they had not come out to be 
 overawed, chilled, and Subdued by rocks, however 
 tremendous, so it was can-ied neni. con. that, dead and 
 ?tony as they were, they must at least have echoei, and 
 the time was come to wake them. In a minute afttr, 
 and Captain Hope having good-naturedly given his 
 consent, one of the largest 68-pounder8 was cast loose 
 and trained afl to face the cliff. From under its 
 overhanging mass the < Flying Fish' ^was moved with 
 
21 
 
 care lest any loose crag shoulJ be sudicicntly disturbed 
 by the concussion to come d(^wn bodily upon hex deck?. 
 A safe distance thus gained, the gun was fired. None 
 who were in the 'Flying Fish' that day nill ever forget 
 its «ound. For the Fp:ice oi' a liaH ii minute or po attf-r 
 the discharge there was i\ dead silence, and then, as iC 
 the report and concuHPJon were hurled back u[.on the 
 decks, the echoes came dow n crash on craj-h. It ?eeired 
 as if the rocks and crags had ali sprung into life under 
 the tremendous din. and as if each was firing 68 pounders 
 full upon u«, in sharp, crushing volleys, till at la^it 
 they grew hoar!-cr and hoarser in their anger, and 
 retreated, bellowing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded 
 solitude from hill to hill, till alf the di::<tant mouataina 
 seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion. It wa? the 
 first time these hideous clilfs had ever been made to 
 speak, and when they did break silence they did it to 
 «om§ purpose. 
 
 A few miles further on, the ''Flying Fish*' passed 
 under Statue Point, where, at about 1000 feet above the 
 water a huge rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave 
 in which, as yet, the foot of man lias never trodden. 
 Before the entrance to this black aperture a gK^autic 
 rock, like the atatue of some dead Titan, once'^ stood. 
 A few years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and 
 the monstrous figure came crashing down through the 
 ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance 
 to the cavern it had guarded perhap? for ages. Bevo..d 
 this, again, was the Tableau Hock, a sheet ol dark- 
 coloured limestone, some 600 feet high by 300 wide, as 
 straight and almost as smooth a'^ a juirror. 
 
»8 
 
 i; 
 
 n^ 
 
 DISTANX'ES, RATI-: OF FARE, MODH OF CONVEY- 
 ANCE, Ac, Ac, Ac. 
 
 Montreal to QL-r^r.:.c vix Uiciikliru Co.'s STKAMkiir.s. — 
 
 Qwefref, Capt. LaBelle, and MuntvcaJ^ C-ipt. \cl5nn, dail)', 
 
 leaving Montroal at 7 i-.m., ai-riviti^ at Qiiel)oc following 
 
 raorning at (? a.m. Fare, iiicliuliiig Meals and State Jioom. 
 
 $5.00. Returning, leave Quebec daily at 4 p.m , nrriving 
 
 in Montreal 6 a.m. lollowitig morning. Distance, 170 miles. 
 
 Via Grawd Thunk R. RoAD.—Exprc^a Trains loavi; 
 Montroal daily at 2 v. m., arriving in (2'i«^^«?c same ovcn'.ng 
 at 9.30. Returning, leaving Utiobcc daily, at 1.50 p.m., 
 connoeting with Trains at Jiichinond tor tho White 
 Moantain, arriving in Montreal same evening at 'J. There 
 is a nigbt train al»o witb Hlecping car attached, cacb way, 
 arriving the following morning. Rate, of fare ,S3.00. 
 
 Cavadiak Navkjatiox Coy.'s Steamkk.^.— r/n/on, Captain 
 Fairgrievee, and Magnet. Capt. v*:impj-on, leave Quebec 
 every Tuesday, VVedneHday, Friday, and Saturday, at 7 
 A.M., on arrival of the StA'amer from Montreal, arriving at 
 lijver da Loup at 4.30 p.m. ; Tadousac (mouih of the 
 Sagaenay) 7 p.m., eame day, and Ha-lla Bay (bead of the 
 Saguenay River) early the following morning. Returning 
 same morning by day-light down the Saguenay lliver, 
 reaching River-du-Loup in the evening, at p.m., and 
 Quebec following morning. Fare to lla-lla Bay and 
 return, $6.00 ; Meal« and State-Rooms extra. Distance each 
 way, 190 miles. Through Tickets allow passengers to lay 
 over at any point on the route. 
 
 Two Trains, via Grand Trunk Railroad, leave Quebec 
 
 and Saturday evenings, at 5 p.m., from River-du-Loup, and 
 make the trip up the Saguenay River, returning the 
 following evening at 5 p.m. 
 
 The lioueos advertised in this Book are strongly 
 recommended as firBt-olass in every respect, where the best 
 descri|ilkm of goods, in their reBpectivn lines, can at all 
 times b« ptircbased at reasonable Fates. 
 
ONVKY- 
 
 in, daily, 
 following 
 .te Jiooni. 
 nrriviny; 
 '0 miles. 
 
 18 K'UVl! 
 
 overling 
 1.30 P.M., 
 10 VVhifo 
 ). There 
 acb way, 
 .00. 
 
 , Cnplain 
 Quebec 
 day. at 7 
 riving at 
 h of the 
 id of the 
 eturniiig 
 y liiver, 
 '.M., and 
 Buy and 
 ince each 
 !rs to lay 
 
 
 Quebec 
 me day. 
 
 Ticket, 
 una can 
 jT, Friday 
 )up, and 
 ing the 
 
 strongly 
 the beHt 
 a\ at all 
 
'5v