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( ■II! : I ut the hear contented himself, by necessity, as he couhl not break through, with " sound and fury," and w ent away. On the 4th of May the open sea came within five hundred paces of the ship. 'I'liey decided, however, not to wait tlic chances of being able to float their ship, but resolved to venture their safety in their boats, They had a voyage before theni of many hundred miles over a cold and stormy sea. They re))aired their two boats, and, on the 13th of June, the forlorn i)arty, twelve in number, left that "desert, irksome, fearful, and cold coun- try." They were destitute of every comfort, and of ahnost all the common necessities of existence. Soon three of them died, and were committed to the dee]) ! After many weary days they came in sight of a long-desired cai)e. When the good news that the ca])e was in sight was shouted from the deck, Piarentz was below examining a chart which I)e Veer, one of his companions, had made of the coasts they had seen on their voyage. He had become very weary, and desired to be carried on deck that he might see the land. Not long after the sad tidings was communicated from the other boat that Claes Andriz was dying. " I shall soon follow Andriz ! " said Barentz. " De Veer," he added, "give me something to drink." He took the cup from De Veer, drank, fell back into his arms, and died. IM! Icc-Bouiiii. 39 I'he comjjany in the olhcr boat were, at the saive lime, closiiij; the eyes in death ot' Anchi/.. The two boats were now in an ahnosi de^perato condition. 'I'heir commander had been tlieir prin- cipal navigator, from his superior knowledj^e and experience. His courage and hopeful temper had been the inspiration of their flagging si)irits. 'I'hey, however, manfully contended against the fearful difticulties ; and in Sei»teml.)er, having been nearly three months o\\ board their frail boats, they reached the coast of Lapland. They say: "We now saw some trees on the river side, \\\\v \\ coiii-- fortcd us and made us glad, as if we then had come into a new world ; for in all the time we had been out we had not seen any trees." Having arrivetl at Coola, which we understand to be a ])ort of La[jland, they fmished a voyage of eleven hundred and forty-three miles, and [mt their boats in the " Merchant's H(nise, us a sign and token of their deliverance." In a few weeks they sailed for Amsterdam in a Dutch ship. They api)eared before their friends in the dress they had worn during their perils, and were received as those who, being lost, were found. They were honored and feasted. The common people heard their story with wonder, and they were invited to repeat it before the min- isters of foreign States at the Hague. 40 Arctic Heroes. CHAPTER V. SET ADRIFT. n '*»■ T HE next an d h Hudson. T prom I n onors of a kluscovy 'im t candidate for the i)crils ic exploration was Henry wealth-seeking company first sent him out in 1607, His orders were t • penetrate directly to the North Pole. Hudson seems to have answered, in spirit : I will try, gentle- men. He reached, by the way of wSj)itzbergen, the latitude of 8i4^\ an a})})roach to ilie point to wliicli he was sent not much exceeded at any time since, until the last American expedition under Captain Hall. He then coasted awhile about Spitzbergen, and came home declaring that there was an insur- mountable ice barrie" across the way to the pole in that direction. This declaration has never been proved false. He was next sent to find a north-east passage to India, a result much desired by his employers, as, in their estimation, it would be eipiivalent to the discovery of great riches. In the spirit of I'll try, he sailed in 1608. He made the coast of Nova Zembla after hard fighting with the Ice King, into whose domains he had dared to pene- trate. ]^>eing defeated by his veneral)le sovereign of the whole northern region, he returned home and testified that a north-east passage to India in % Sc'f Adrift, 41 ships had no existence, except in the fancies and wishes of certain merchants who woukl make haste to l)e rich. This testimony of the brave sailor stands unimpeached to this day. Hudson's sailors declared that while at one time out in a boat, dur- ing this voyage, they saw a merr.iaid. They did not, however, catch her and bring her to England. So a grave doubt rests u])on their testimony. Tlie Dutch did not believe the faithful state- ment of Hudson, l)ut would have him try the north-cast passage again. He did so, in 1609, and was warned off, as before, by the grim Ice King ; he obeyed, and turned his ships toward the American coast, taking care to steer away from the regions controlled by his frosty majesty. He arrived at what is now New York harbor, and discovered the beautiful river to which his name has been n*.tached to this day. This was exploring to good purpose, whether it satisfied the merchants of Hol- land or not. The next year a rich company of London mer- chants started him off again. Strange to say, the explorers again confronted their old enemy on the south-east coast of Iceland, where they dropucd anchor. They were beset with fog, and soon found themselves beset also by "bergs" and "packs," the skirmishers of the Ice King. They wisely took the hint and left. Going round to the west coast they caught a fine lot of fish. Here they saw Mount Hecla in a blaze, the brightness of its fires lighting up tlie land and sea, and sparkling from the eternal snows. 42 Arctic Heroes. They inadc a harl)or, wlicre llicy killed a good sup]3ly of sea-fowl. Attemiiting to sail, they were driven into another harbor, where they found warm springs, in which they bathed; some of them were hot enouidi to boil their fowl in. They now sailed away for Greenland, and coasted along its north-west side, seeing many whales. Scudding before the wind, they went west of north, and encountered great quantities of floating ice, on which were numerous seals. Hudson was carried along with the current which bore the ice, and after fruitless attemj)ts to get free from it gave np the attempt, and yielded to feelings of dis- rourag'Miient. He called his men together, showed tliem his chart, and called their attention to the faot that they had sailed a hundred leagues further than any of their countrymen had done. He then submitted the question to them whether to go further or to return. The council thus called seems to have l)een divided and insubordinate. The commander, as might have been supposed, was obliged to assume the responsibility, which he did by pushing for- ward. He soon after discovered some islands under >vhich he found shelter. Going ashore they found game and drift-wood, and, being re- freshed and encouraged, called them tlie " Isles of God's Mercy. Sailing again, and borne hither and thither by the varying ice-laden current, he was at last car- ried much to the west of what he expected l)y the rush of the tide into the great bay which bears ir'^ Sa Adrift, 43 his name. Gaining ihe slicltcr of another ishuul, a ])oat was sent ashore. They found iijioi-i it herds of deer — though their clumsy guns failed to bring down any — abundance of wild fowl, and some herbage and scurvy-grass. The boat ex- plorers were called on board by an alarm-gun, as a storm was coming on. The crtnv, having been consulted before, now /'.fV/^/tv^v/ their advice. They wanted to stay here and recruit. But Hudson was elated by the idea of the vast sea into which he had just entered, and thinking, perhaps, that the way to " (J- :' iK-^y " was at last open to him, weighed anchor "i'' ' ^ re away. The muttering storm of discontent among the crew, r,o long gathering, began to break out in fitful gusts. Hudson at once assumed the stern authority of the shij)- master, and degraded two of his officers, the mate and boatswain, making Bylot mate and Wilson boatsw^ain. In doing this he is accused of acting under the influence of a spirit of revenge for provocations a long time before given by the de- graded men. This :-.eems to us unlikely, his own safety forbidding 'e master to take such a time to pay off old gnu After some exciiii. ■; adventures, in which tlie crow and their commaauer came into collision, they began tc 'ook about for winter-quarters. It was November, tlie nights ^^ e long and cold, and the snow every-where deeu. Drawing their ship up near the shore they were soon frozen in. Their provisions were '">w, and all were put on a short allowance. T\\ few, ever forward with their ad- ..!. 44 Arctic Heroes. vice, counseled the biiilding of a house on shore. This seems to have been good advice, but Hudson flatly refused to have it done. A most unfortu- nate state of irritability had been fostered between the two parties. Some time later, when the com- mander saw the necessity of a house on shore, he commanded the carpenter to build one. " I nei- ther can nor will," was that officer's reply. Hud- son attemjited to strike him, and hurled at him sharp words. " I know my d'lty ; I am no /iv>w it. A moment after, however, a huge wa\e lifted h.er u]), and bore her safely over the reef into calm water with a sandy bottom. They were but a short distance from the shore. They were in a land-locked harbor, and had been driven in through a merciful ])rovi(lence ' the winds and waves through the narrow and only {)Ossible entrance. They restetl until noon of the next day. Piering had been for some time confined to his berth with the scurvy. W'axcl, who succeeded to the command, and Steller, surgeon and naturalist, now landed to explore the country. It was dreary enough. There were no trees in- viting them to a shelter under their intertwining branches; no Es([uimo huts offered tlieir simple hospitality. One feature only was cheering : there was a beautiful stream of i)ure water, which the Ice King, forbidden by the (Ireat King, had not yet touched by his congealing wand. It was mur- muring a plaintive welcome to the forlorn strangers as it rushed over its rocky bed. Waxel and Steller found some excavations in i m i ii J .-' \ M 54 Arctic Heroes. 1* ,1 mm the banks of this stream, which they resolved to cover with the sails of the ship as the best tem- porary provi.iion they could make for the sick. This they did, and in a few days attempted to bring them ashore. Some died the monient they reached the open air; othe.s died on board the boat, and some immediately on Lnnding, These deceased comrades were laid in a solemn row on the shore to await a kindly burial ; but their bodies were instantly attacked by rapacious foxes, who mangled some of them before they could be interred. On the second day of the removals, Bering was brought ashore and placed in a hut by himself. He was tenderly carried by his men from the boat, and his necessities were met as far as the painful circumstances allowed. But he ra]oidly sunk under his disease, his age and temperament being against him. He became delirious as his life drew to ^ 'jlose, imagining his friends to be his enemies, and not permitting some of them to come into his presence. He indulged the strange fancy of scooping u\) the loose sand near his bed and covering his feet with it. He was very angry if his attendants rer-io'/ed it. He was finally left to gratify this strange desire, and he sunk into the arms of death, half buried by his own hands. His name was given to the island, which has become to all nations, and all succeeding generations, his monument. No other officer d ed, though several others were at times attacked vvitli the prevailing disease. "^m^ Shipivrcck and Escape. 55 lers Ue. But the disasters of the wretched company were not ended. A few days after the burial of their commander a violent storm arose. The sea broke over the reef girding their harbor, and rolled vast waves to the shore. Their ship, their only de- pendence for escape, swung uneasily at her moor- ing. She had lost two anchors, and one only remained. None but men situated as they were can appreciate the anxiety with which they watched her unequal contest with the mighty sea. All day of the 29th of September she bravely clung to her anchor. The night, long, dark, and fearfully tempestuous, set in, and left the shipwrecked islanders to watch through its hours in torturing uncertainty. When, at last, the morning lighted up the shore, the ship was seen won the bjach, buried dcp in the sand, and sadly shattered by the waves. A large part of their provisions, which, strange to say, had not been removed to the shore, was lost. ^J'he party began now to look about them most carefully. They soon learned that they were upon an island. They found drift-wood, by dig- ging under the snow, for improving their huts and for fuel. This was a timely supply, without which they must have perished. The blue and white foxes, which annoyed them on landing, and sacri- legiously attacked their dead, were glad to keep out of their way, and were made to help largely in supplying their table. "The sea-beaver," as they called another of the island animals, they ate it,' ^1 56 Arctic Heroes. m only when hard pressed for food, as their flesh was hard and " strini^^y." 'I'hcy even turned up their noses at tlie flesh of the seal, pronouncing its smell and taste decidedly disagreeable, (which proves that they were not driven very near to the verge of starvation.) The " sea-lion " they jjro- nounced excellent. The walrus was much rel- ished, the flesh being " like beef," and tlie young ones tasting like " the best veal ;" they used their fat for butter. They even salted several hogsheads of this walrus meat for their voyage of esca])e, if they ever made one. A part of the small remains of the provision saved from the ship was put away for the same purpose. At a time in the winter when they seemed in some danger of falling short of provisions a whale came ashore near their huts. They found its flesh, when separated by boiimg from the fat, good eating. In the spring another whale stranded upon their beach. Thus God wonderfully pro- vided for these shipwrecked islanders. It was now April, 1742; the snow had melted, and the wreck and drift-wood were uncovered. They began to debate the (piestion, How shall we escape from the island ? — a question, one would think, hard to answer. Waxel proposed tearing the old wreck to pieces, and the construction of a smaller vessel of the materials. All concurred in the proposal. But the carpenters of the expedi- tion, three in number, had died during the winter. Here was a serious perplexity. In the emc-gency a Cossack, by the name of Sawa, who had worked SJiipivrcck and Escape. 57 awhile in a Russian navy-yard, stepped forward and said he would try. The commander sug- gested the dimensions, Ibrty feet long and thirteen ])road. The vessel was begun in May, and on the loth of August it was launched and named the " St. Peter." It had one mast and one deck. A cabin was built on the after-part, and a cook-house on the fore-part. The shot and iron of the wreck were used as ballast. Arrangements were made for four oars amid-ships. Favored by calm weath- er after the launching, they hung the rudder, put in the mast, " bent the sails," took the provisions and the few valuables their shij)wreck had left tht \-<, adding no small amount of furs collected on the island. Having built their sailing vessel, they added to it a boat large enough to carry nine persons. Seldom have men reduced to so desperate a condition risen to one so hopeful. On the i6th of August they bid adieu to their island home, manned their oars, rowed over the reef, and, when well out to sea, hoisted sail and steered for Kam- chatka. Their vessel behaved well, to the joy of all and the honor of Sawa. On the 27th they safely entered the i)ort from whence they had sailed with such high hopes fifteen months be- fore. Chirikoffs shi]), though it had been out in search of them, was there. They were, of course, w\armly welcomed, and became the heroes of the hour. Sawa was regarded as the rescuer of the company, and was made a nobleman of inferior order. X-. 1 * i 4 II t ,1 58 Arctic Heroes. Thus ended the last expedition under Bering — its shipwreck and escape. Having thus shown the progress of arctic dis- covery into the middle of the eighteenth century, we will pause to glance at some of its moral and religious results. ! " -;i' Arctic Mission - Work, 59 CHAPTER VII. ARCTIC MISSION- WORK. WE have related in an early chapter the fact that a Danish settlement in (Ireenland immediately followed the pioneer voyagers. We have noted, too, the history of a Roman Catholic mission which attended it, and given passing notice of the remarkable circumstance that the entire colony, with its mission, was mysteriously blotted out. We devote now a few pages to the revival of the mission-work there by better teachers with a purer faith. In the early part of the eighteenth century a Norwegian boy by the name of Hans Egede list- ened to the wonderful legends of his fatherland with deep interest. The stories concerning the Zenos especially impressed him. Mixed with tales of their shipwreck on the Greenland shore were vague accounts of heroic Christian efforts for the conversion or its heathen people. The lack of reliable information as to what had been done afforded a broad field for the exercise of his lively imagination. His desire to preach Christ in Green- land grew with his increasing years, and became the staple of his talk. But the Church received his suggestions coldly, and the world laughed at him. Being thus restrained, he became parish I? ■ 1 ¥ - *f; r 60 AKcric Ilr.HOES. ; I it \ \ !i! -%. minister at Vogcn, in tlic north of Norway, was married, and had four cliildren. TUit the fiery zeal of his youth for Greenland and its perishing heathen burned with unabated intensity. His wife even opposed it, Init Egede had no rest. " He that forsaketh not all that he hath for my sake is not wortliy of nie," seemed ever ringing in his ears. He spread the matter before (iod in earnest daily prayer. His wife's ol)jections were first removed, and she became an ardent co- operator, declaring she was ready to forsake all lid to face every toil and danger. He pressed his suit upon the Mission College, and was rejected with some assurance of future aid. He next ap- peared before the king himself. Royal ears were opened to his imi)assioned appeal, difhculties gave way, ten thousand dollars were raised, a small vessel, called the '* Hope," ]nirchased, and Hans Egede with his family landed in Greenland in the summer of 1721. He chose for his first station a small island near the mouth of the Baal River, in latitude about 65°. Strange to say, Egede, with all his seemingly God-inspired zeal and his undoubted Christian heroism, mistook at first, at least, the vital duty of a true a])Ostolic missionary — that of preaching Christ, He began his instructions with the story of the creation, and endeavored thus indirectly to prei)are his hearers for the story of the cross. His ('hristian si)irit conciliated the natives, and sub- dued the opposition of prejudice which first at- tended his good offices. Still none were con- Arctic Mission- Work. 6i verted, Kc toiled on ten long years, patiently praying and waiting. In 17 ^r Kgede seems to have begun to have some fruit, for several were baptized. Two of these were taken to Denmark by the colonists, and their story awakened a deep interest in the minds of the devoted Moravians of that country. Their story was reix)rted to the congregation at Herrnhut. Matthew Stach arose and said : "Send me to Greenland; the Lord hath called me." His cousin, Christian Stach, added, " Me, too, hath (iod commanded to go!" Christian David, a veteran teacher, united with them in the noble enterprise. The congregation which said to these brethren, "Go; (rod be with you, and bless you ! " were a poor persecuted people. They had only their blessing to give. These three started for Copenhagen, a district of five hundred miles, afoot, carrying their entire worldly substance on their backs. The day be- fore starting they received an unsolicited dona- tion, and while this lasted they refused all prof- fered charities by the way. When they arrived at Copenhagen they were regarded as fanatics. Count Pless inquired of them how they would support themselves in Greenland. "With our hands," Avas the prompt reply. " How will you find shelter and a home ? " "We will build a house and live in it." " But there is no timber in Greenland ! " 1 I fit '*:; I I iff 4 P :i r. 62 Arctic Heroes. it ' ?l'i!! "Then we will dig a hole in tlie ground and live in that ! " " No," replied the count, " that will l)e too l)ad. Here's money enough to buy lumber for a house ; carry the material for your home with you, and God bless you ! " They arrived in Greenland in April, 1733, and built their humble house on the mainland near the island on which Egede had so long toiled. They put u}), also, a house in which to receive the natives who might visit them. They called their locality Herrnhut. Scarcely had they become settled be- fore the small-pox swept away large numbers of the natives, and prostrated the missionaries. While thus burdened they were cheered by the unexpected coming to join them in their labors of two of their brethren from home, Beck and Boenish. These so diligently and ai)tly applied themselves to the Esquimo language that they soon printed for native use copies of the Lord's Prayer, the Ten Commandme.its, and the Apostles' Creed. But they were unsuccessful in hunting, not having learned the ways of the natives in this respect. Their stock of provisions was much reduced, so that there remained for the entire mission only a barrel and a half of oatmeal, with no apparent resource when that should be eaten. The Esquimo, seeing their reduced state, watched for the moment when starvation should make them helpless to utterly destroy them. But the men of God cried unto him, and in the spring of 1736 ample supplies were sent by an unknown Arctic Mission - Work. 63 benefactor in Holland. Having thus enough to eat for the present, more hiborers and more mouths to feed came from their home. In the sum- mer following, the mother of Matthew Stach, a widow, and his two sisters, joined the mission. The mother immediately relieved the men of the burden of domestic affairs, and the sisters — Rosina, twenty-two years old, and Anna twelve — showed great aptness in learning the native language, and soon became efficient spiritual hel])ers. For two years from this time this united, undinching compa- ny of eight Christians endured all manner of annoy- ances from those whom they came to tell of Jesus and his love. Hideous bowlings saluted their ears by night. Whenever they went out they were mocked, pelted with stones, and threatened with death. Their boats were loose.ied from their moorings and set adrift. Thus affairs stood when a party of South Green- land natives arrived at the settlement. One of them, Kayarnak, was at one time sitting near Beck while he was attempting the translation of the Gospel of Matthew. He was curious to learn what the white teacher was doing. Be(^k read to him the .story of the cross. The savage and his companions listened with tearful eyes. " Tell me that again," exclaimed Kayarnak, He became at once a keen and earnest inquirer. He came and settled near the mission, bringing two other fami- lies, who became inquirers. The other South Greenlanders mocked and soon left; but five candidates for baptism, including Kayarnak, camt; \\ ai n 11? i 11 lil ."I 64 Arctic Hkroes. M out of the tlirce faniilics. Morning and even- ing ])raycrs were established in these hoiiseliolds, and tliey progressed raiiidly in the knowledge of the Christian faith. Sunday, March 29, 1739, was a great day at Herrnhut. Kayarnak, his wife, a son and a daugh- ter, were baptized in the midst of prayers, thanks- givings, tears, and tlie nielling jiower of the Spirit. The aged ICgede had been called home by Ids king to teach the Est[uimo language to those ])urpos- ing to join the colony. But his son had taken his place in the mission-work, and rejoiced at this harvest home. This baptism of the Spirit was followed by a baptism of blood. A brother of Kayarnak, who had become an in([uirer, was killed, and Kayarnak himself was driven, with his family, under the threat of death, to South (Ireenland. JUit he carried the presence of the Saviour and tlie good news of salvation with him. Soon twenty-one boats, filled with his countrymen, came to Herrn- hut inquiring about this new way and a risen Christ. At the exj^iration of a year Kayarnak himself, with his family, accompanied by a brother and family as inquirers, made their weltome ap- pearance at the mission. After a brief but faith- ful career Kayarnak died, attesting joyfully in death, as he had in life, the power of Divine grace. The good work spread. In one Es(|uimo hut the inmates sat up all night listening with unwearied attention to the Word of Life. In 1747 the material for a house of worship »n Arctic li fission - Work. OS was sent from Denmark l>y tlie friends of tlic mission, and it was dedicated with great joy. Tlie next year tliirty-five natives jjrofessed to obtain renewing grace and were baptized. A fevv years after a devastating disease was introduced from the whale-ships, and nearly two score of the native converts died; but in death they triumphed, and witnessed a good confession. A few years later Matthew Stach, assisted by two recruits from the home congregation, estab- lished a new mission at a more southern jioint, which he called Lichtenfels. In a great emer- gency for a church, these brethren laid their case before (jod in prayer. God had given them the ears of the natives, whole families had professed to find Christ, and a house of worship was deeuu-d necessary for the permanent usefulness of the mission. Thus situated, the winds and the strong current which had visited more souti^.ern shores brought a large amount of drift timber. Out of this the church was erected. From this time the good work went stcidily forwaid, its harvest-fields covering a greater area, its sowers and reapers increasing, and its sheaves more perfectly ripening for the heavenly garner. The whole New Testament was in due time translated and ])rinted in Esquimo by the British and Foreign Bible Society. A training-school has been established at the Herrnhut Mission to pre- pare native Christians to preach to their coun- trymen. Re-union meetings of the native con- verts are at times held. At one of these two ■1 { *1 i HI '111 "itt 'i m 66 Arctic Heroes. hundred and thirty-seven partook of the sacrament together, rejoicing with great joy. Thus have arctic exi)lorations been followed by the precious inlluences of the (iospel. The reader will now readily recall the last cliai>ter — its story of shipwreck and escape — and go with us on another voyage of exploration. ■) 'i ii'i« A Sudden Retreat. 67 CHAPTER VIII. A SUDDEN RETREAT. THEwSE repeated disasters of the explorers seem not to have dam])cned the ardor of eitlier the governments or the sailors in their desire to sail round the continents through the northern sea. Their desire to visit the North Pole was as intense as if they knew it to consist of a mountain of gold. In T743 the British Parliament offered a reward of one hundred thousand dollars to the lucky navij^ator who, sailing through Hudson Strait, shouV come out on the other side of tiie Ameri- can continent. It a])pears to have been assumed that this prize could be taken by one giving cer- tain proof that this could be done. So land as well as sea expeditions were tried. These started from the trading depots of the Hudson Bay Com- pany, and 'traversed their vast territory toward the Arctic Sea. In 1869-72 Hearne reached a large and rapid river — the Coppermine — and floated nearly to its mouth. The next expedition, ten years later, by Mackenzie, followed the nobler Mackenzie River in the same direction. Neither were certain that they had reached the ocean. So the century closed with the vexed question un- answered. .,i< IVI. ;'''V * ^tii d; w n '^'■ 68 Arctic Heroes. "Vars now for many years kept the tlioughts and ships of commercial nations at home. \a- jjoleon Honaparte, fiercer tlian a i)ohir bear, was making sad havoc of thrones. When, at hast, the smoke of battles had cleared away, the attention to arctic exi)loration was renewed, largely by the influence of William Scoresby; a cai)tain of a whale-shij). When a boy, in a whaler commanded l)y his father, he had reached a higher latitude than any yet attained. He was only twenty-one years old when his father retired from the service, giving his son the command of his ship. In 1 817 Captain Scoresl)y observed a remarkable chaiige in the northern ice-fields. He reported that Baffin May, and the waters even far beyond, were free from ice, while large quantifies were drifting south over the Atlantic to mvlt in a warmer region. He called the attention of Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society, to tl.is re- markable fact in a v.ell-written letter. The old enthusiasm bc'j;an to glow amon^;; the great men. Scoresby's suggestions were readily taken up. but not the man. Thougli eminently ([ualified for the command, which he sought, of one of the explor- ing ships, "Mily officers from the na\y were allowed the honor, "red tape" prevailing over common sense and the best interests of exploiation, Two fine ships were soon in readiness: tlie larg- er, the " Isabella," three hundred and eighty-five tons, was commanded by ^Ir. (afterward Sir John) i<(i^s; tlie smaller, the " .A'exander," two hundred and fifty tons. I \\ as under the commaiul of Lieu- A Siiihicn Retreat. 69 tenant Eidward Tarry. 'I'licse vessels were not only larger than their predecessors in the same service, but were better furnished in all respects. The beit instruments known to science were on board, and a man skilled in using them, Cai)tain Sabine, was detailed for that purpose. Not the least valuable member of this ex[)edition was an Esciuimo by the name of Sackhouse. He had been converted through the intluence of the Danish mission in Greenland, and had been twice in vScot- land, spending a corisiderable time under l^^nglish instructors. He had a pleasing address and a true Christian siji'it. He now joined the expedi- tion as an interpreter. A skillful draughtsman, ^.ieut. Hoppner, was taken to sketch the headlands and bays and other objects of interest, and to devote his tinic es[je- cially to laying down charts of 'he coast. Special stress was laid, in the orders given to Captain Ross, on the importance of affording the scientific ofticer and the artist every possible opi)ortunity to o^jerate in their departments of the service. On the 30th of April, 1818, the shi[)s sailed. >assed the southerr »g \> ap and coasting northernly, they were soon ice- locked. On one occasion the two ships made fast to an iceberg, and made a merry-time of it. The officers admired the scenery. Far to the east was the dark outline of ''Greenland's icy mountains," while to the west was a dreary horizon ot masses of [Kicked ice. For a short distance around their berg was open water. r ;■ 'iH /nil w if ••! 70 Arctic Heroes. f si Upon the berg itself were sights worth seeing. The scientific men — a little groii],) — occupied an isolated spot, busy with their instruments. At a distant jioint a party of sailors were shooting sea- fowl, bringing down many at every shot; near the ship were sailors tal'ing in ice for water; higher u)) the crystal mountain were some of the men amusing themselves by sliding down from the top into the valley below ; others were quietly looking on, finding a real ]jleasure in seeing the hajjj^iness of their comrades. But the most exciting scene was a b-itH- going on between a part of the offi- cers and men of tlie two ships. High up tlie tjerg was a company behind an icy rami)art. Below was an assail i. g party, boldly ascending, as best they could, the slip})ery height to dislodge them, l^oth parties were well armed — with snow-balls! 'Die fight finally proved rather a (-o/t/ one, and ended without bloodshed. It afforded a pleasnnt evi- dence that there were no jealousies among the members of this expedition. Leaving the iceberg, they found favorable sail- ing until they reached the Danish and Estpiirao settlement of Disco. Here was a fieet of twenty- five or thirty English whale-ships, waiting for the ice to open. It had the appearance of .1 home seaport. A party of Esquimo came on board Cai)tain Ross' ship, and the value of Sackhouse as an in- terpreter was soon seen. A trade for dogs and sledges was soon completed; after which the artist made a sketch of the group of u.iti »cs, whit h greatly A Sudden Retreat, pleased th'^m ; they then danced Scotch reels on deck with the sailors, to the delight of all i)arties. Sackhouse was especially attracted by one of the half-Danish young ladies. One of the ofticcrs, noticing his partiality, gave him a lady's shawl, sparkling with a sjjangled border, as a present to the young belle. He received it gladly, and pre- sented it to her with a graceful bow. I'he young woman blushingly acknowledged the gift, and in return gave vSackhouse a pewter ring taken from her finger. Sackhouse went on shore with the visitors, and not returning seasonably the next day, messengers were sent to hunt him up. He was fcjund, after some search, in a hut seriously injured and suffer- ing greatly. He had gone out early to shoot some specimens of natural history for the members of the scientific corps, Thinking, as he said, " Plenty powder, plenty kill," he had overloaded his gun. The result was " plenty hurt " in the breaking of his collar-bone by the recoil of his gun. It was a considerable time before his full recovery. The ice breaking up, our explorers sailed, in company with the whalers, up the eastern side of Baffin liay. While the whole fleet were within sight, at various distances, there occurred a natural phenomenon, curious enough to t!^em, ])ut (piite common in the arctic regions, vSome of these ships, by unequal refraction, appeared from the deck of the " Isabella " as if they were lifted up to .a great height, while others at a greater distance were flattened to the surface of the sea, I «i \%\ 72 Arctic Heroes. I • I. 1 'A The slii[)S were soon taiiu;lu to keep out of each other's way, as the mighty i( e-currents sometimes brought tliem in violent collision with each other. Occasionally the ships were towed along the edge of great masses of floating ice by the sailors tugging at a long rope. As the ice was thin, they not unfrequently broke through and received a cold bath, iUit as they did ncjt ha[)pen all to break through at the same time, the unfortunate one had only to hold fast to the rojje and be drawn out. The explorers came, at one time, to an island about which were some Es([uimo with their dog- sledges, the ice being unbroken on the land side. They had evidently never seen white men nor their ships. They looked amazed for awhile, and then scampered off. In a few hours they sliyly returned. Sackhouse api)roached them with signs of peace. When at a distance he shouted, " Come on!" to which they replied, "No; go away!" One drew his knife, and added, " I can kill you ! " But Sackhouse was full of tact and courage. He threw them some beads and a shirt. These de- sirable things not ({uite overcoming their fears, he tossed them an luiglish knife. 'I'hey made a rush for this, and, as one picked it uji, they all pulled their noses and exclaimed, '* Heigh yaw ! " Sack- house pulled his own nose and echoed, '* Heigh yaw !" The gifts, nose pulling, and "yaws" were potent peace-makers, and a talk commenced. "What," asked the natives, pointing to the ships, "are those great creatures.''" yl Sudden Rclrcat. ih Id " Houses made of wood," s:iid Sackhoiise. " No; they are alive. We saw them mi)ve their wings, bid they come from the sun or moon .^ " " From that way," said Sixkhouse, pointing south. " No," said the doubting natives; "there is only ice that way." As the I'lsquimo could not be enticed on board the ships, commanders Ross and Parry came out with their hands full of presents. 'J'he Es(|uimo began to move off at their ap[)roach. Sack- liousc called to the ofhcers to i)ull their noses and shout, "Ileigh yawl" 'I'he magic words opened a friendly intetcourse. Among other gifts they were jjresented with a looking-glass. They gazed steadily at their own faces for a few mo- ments in blank amazement, and then broke into an immoderate laugh, in which both parties joined heartily. ^ The exj)edition reached at last Smith Sound, as it was called, but Ross strangely passed it by without attempting an ex[)loration ; in the same way he jjassed Jones Sound, losing the op[)or- tunity of proving that they were both straits. Entering I.ancaster Sound, they found the water entirely free from ice in a westerly direction. With high hf)pes, before favoring winds, they sailed for awhile directly on the highway to the s])ice islands of India, as most, if not all the men, e\cei)t Ross, believed. All at once the " Isabella" tacked ship on the return vo) age. Parry reluctantly followed in the "Alexander," . i-if'ed and vexed. The expe- I f 1 ' ' 4 **„ ff 1 If ^1 It lii '•?■ Kl 74 Arctic Heroes. dilion arrived safely in England, where a hue and cry was raised against Ross. He declared, in self- defense, that he clearly saw a-head a dark outline of mountain barriers, proving that navigation ex- tended no further. As it has since been proved that none existed, it is not strange that Parry did not see them. Thus ingloriously ended this finely-equipped expedition. I Striking Incidents. 75 i1 CHAPTER IX. STRIKING INCIDENTS. AT the same time that the Ross and Parry expedition left England for Baffin Bay, two other ships sailed on the same general errand. They were the "Dorothea" and "Trent." The first was commanded by Captain Buchan, in com- mand also of the expedition, and the other by Lieutenant John Franklin. Captain Buchan was instructed to sail his ships between S])itzbergen and Greenland, touching at neither, but keeping straight on to the North Pole, and from thence to the ap- pointed place of meeting with Ross' ships on the western coast of America. Both expeditions were to " conquer success," and do what others had so long tried to do. We have seen how Ross came out ; let us follow Buchan. He, too, as an incidental but important duty, was to see that all possible experiments were made during the voyage "on the elliptical figure of the earth ; on magnetic phenomena ; on the refraction of the atmosphere in high latitudes in ordinary circumstances, and over extensive masses of ice ; and on the temperature and specific gravity of the sea at the surface and at various depths; and on meteorological and other interesting phenomena." The two ships, having left England in April, 1818, I s i fi '11 ml. hi ril 76 Arctic Hi:iool, keej)ing in an erect posture, and always directing the face of the young toward the vessel. On the slightest movement on l)oard the mother released her llipl^er an.d jnished the young one under the water; but when every thing was again »|uiet brought it tip as before, and for a length of time continued StriktHi^ Iiicidoits. 77 to play a])out in the pool, to tlie great aimiseinent of the seamen, who gave her credit for abilities in instructing her young, which, though i»ossessed of considerable sagacity, she hardly merited." Another scene presented by the walruses was quite as serious as amusing, and, though a litik,- comic, came (juite near being tragical. One of the sailors of the "Trent" having, from the ship's deck, wounded a walrus, a i)arty of seamen manned a boat to secure the prize. No sooner liad they pushed off from the ship than a detachment of the walrus army attacked them. 'I'hey came on, snort- ing with rage, and terrific in numbers, size, and swiftness, with which they rushed to the assatdt. The boat's crew were taken by sur])rise and thrown off their guard. Some of the enemy, making a battering-ram of their heads, rushed furiously at the boat's sides, making it tremble in every joint with the concussion. Others endeavored to upset it i)y hanging over its sides while hooked on by their tusks. lUit the crew, recovering their self- possession, fought for their lives. They pricked the enemy in the face with sharp lances, or smote them over the head with hatchets. They, however, were growing faint with the unefpial contest, while the walrus leaders ])ushed forward fresh recruits to take the place of their wounded comrades. Just at this crisis a monster walrus, evidently the ( ham- pion assailant, rushed \\\)ox\ the boat and seized it with his great tusks. He had darted in, to K:ni,\ the fray, jjroclaim the victory, and carry off the sjjoils. ]3ut there was one loaded gun in the boat which '■ifi % '> J '^ 111 1 j . J m jj i 1 (.:■, il ff .* it* Hi • I A r \V t* 80 Akl'J'ic Hr:KC)KS. rurri'd," he snys, "on a remarkably fine day, wlieti the (|uietness of the l)ay was first interrupted hy the Tailing l)()(ly. Lieiitenanl l''raiiklin and my- self had approaeiied one (>( thesu stu|)endous walls of ice, and were endeiivoring to search into the innermost recess of a deej) cavern that was near the foot of the glacier, when we heard a report as of a cannon, and, turning to the (juarter whence it ])roceeded, we perceived an immense piece of the point of the herg sliding down from the height of tw(; hundred feet at least, into the sea. It dis|)ersed the water in every direction, accompanied by a loud grinding noise, A (pian- tity of water which had previously been lodged in fissures, now made its escape over the point of the glacier, in many small cataracts." The immense waves created by this majestic launch, rolled over the bay and struck the " Dor- othea," which lay upon her side, aground, four miles away, 'i'hey released her tackle, ])Ut her in an iii)right position, and passed on, seeming to laugh at the sport they made as she reeled and tumbled at their bidding. I>eechey adds : "The ])iece that had been disengaged, at first wholly disapi)eared under water, and nothing was seen but a violent boiling of the sea, and a shooting uj) of clouds of spray, like that which occurs at the foot of a great cataract. After a time it reap- I)eared, raising its head full a hundred feet above the surface, with water jjouring down from all parts of it. Then, laboring as if in doubt which way it should fal!7 it rolled over, and, after rock- StrikifiiS Incidents. 8r ing about sr)nie minutt's, at length became settled. We now approached and found it nearly a (piarter of i mile in circuinferenee, anil sixty feet f)Ut of water. Knowin[,' its specific gravity, and niakitii^^ a fair allowance for its inequalities, we conipuicd its weiiiht at 4=; 1 1660 tons. A stream of salt water was s till tl( owinti down its sides, aiu d i: icre was a continual cracking noise, as loud as that of a cart whij), occasioned, I sup[)ose, by the escape of (onfi ned air. ()ur i'Xi)lorers found, as others have (huie, the temj)erature on the west coast of Spitzbergen to be mild, there beinu little sensation of cohl, cv un w hen the thermometer was (;nly a few degrees above freezing. When the sun shone through the pure atmosjihere the effect was enlivening and brilliant. The azure hue was more clearly defined than that of an Italian sky. The radia- tion of the sun was intense at times. Heechey says: " Hence are found rarities of Al[)ine i)lants, grasses, am 1 lid lens, sue h as m more southern climes flourish in great luxuriance. They are found ascending to a consideralWe height, so that we have fre([uently seen the raindeer browsing at an elevation of fifteen hundred feet." 'I'he shores of the islands (;f .Spitzbergen are the resort of animals of various kinds and in great numbers. The exi)lorers found Magdalena Bay a lively [)lace in this respect. Sea birds, of various species, filled the air with th.eir merry cries. Wlierever they went, groups of walruses were basking in the sun and indulging in their il lii t\.\ ;1 % 82 Arctic Heroes. playful roar. The husky bark of the seal saluted their ears by day and night, Beechey in referring to the great numbers of "the little auli," one variety of sea-fowl, says: "We have frec[uently seen an uninterrupted line of them, extending full half way over the bay, or to a distancf^ of more than three miles, and so close toj.L't I. •,■";; Uv3l thirly have fallen at one shot. T]it: of tVi't sea-fo".vl kind they fought with courage. When foxes, or other largv.. animals, appioached, th'-v iias*ily drew over their eggs the fi, j»vn of iheir nests and glued it down by a.i offen- sive yellow fluid. This protection was complete when once tlie enemy snuffed the odoi". The islands near the anchorage of the shijjs were clothed with a soft carpet of moss. To these pastures herds of deer swam, feasted, and grew fat in great numbers. One small island above supplied the expedition with forty carcasses, the fat on the loins of which was from four to six inches thick. One of them weighed two hun- dred and eighty-five pounds. I Striking Incidents. 8 « Of the affection of these beautiful animals Becchey tluis writes : " They showed evident marks of affection for each other. They were at tlii.s time in pairs, and when one was shot the other would h.;ng over it and occasionally lick it, bemoaning its fate; and, if not immediarely killed, would stand three or four shots ratiier than leave its companion. This compassionate conduct, it is needless to say, doubled our chance of sue ess, though I must confess it was obtained in violation of our better feelings." The boats of the "Trent" captured several reindeer as they were swimmiiig from one island to another, 'i'hese they attempted to domesticate on board of the shi[), but the jioor things were so frightened that they broke their limbs in their struggles, and were in mercy killed. On the 7th of June the ships attempted to pio- ceed on their voyage to the pole. They had the usual amount of buiTetings by the winds, driftings by adverse currents, and collisions and imj^edi- ments in the floating ice, resulting in their return, after about three weeks, to Magdalena Bay. Resting awhile, and repairing damages, they again steered northward. This time the ship *' Dorothea" was more roughly handled, and came near going down with all her crew. 'I'he " i'rent," under the management of the skillful I'Vanklin, fared l)etter, but was badly battered. Both re- turned to Spitzbergen for repairs, and then re- luctandy returned to England with the old report — Ice is king at the north ! 6 ^!s \l » 111 l» -i i J. 84 Arctic Heroes. 1 CHAPTER X. IMPORTANT SUCCESS. TmC two c.\j)l()rations just noticed — Ross' to Lancc'^ter Sound, and Buchan's to Spitz- bergen — having ended, others were immediately projected. Commander Ross fell into the back ground for seeing mountain obstacles where none were. His second in command. Lieutenant Parry, was the coming man. lie had declared that all attempts at the north had been abandoned on the eve of success. His faith and courage were suited to the spirit of the times, and his subse- quent success ])roved that both sprung from real str'cngth of character. As we are to sail with this noted discoverer now for the first lime in full command, let us pause and seek a more intimate ac(}uaintance before we start. Edward Parr^ ivas the son of Dr. ]\irry, »)f Bath, J^lngland. He early manifested :i desire to »ee the world. When a child he was once found in his father's librlfc-y astride of n globe. Not finding it the most convenient hobby-horse, he looked on this side and then on that, as he sat mounted, and exclaimed, " How wise it would be to go round it ! " Vet he neither purposed nor desired to enter the navy. But a divinity directed he tide of his life, which he wisely took at the luiportaiit Success. 85 flood. Until within j few days of his first sea voyage lic was ^tu(lying his father's profession, wliich lie intended soon to enter. It hapi'ened that just at this time a hidy friend was visitnvj; the family who was rel.Ucd to Admiral Cornwallis, then in command of the Channel fleet. W'iih a woman's instinct, tliis lady friend had seen i^d- ward's adaptation to the sea, and had often urged his father to ])larc him in the navy. Strange enough, she at this m(jment succeeded, wiien he was on the eve of professional life — the father con- senting and the son agreeing to go on a sea no)- age. Admiral Cornwallis was " interviewed," and in a few days Kdnard was shii)i>ed on board the "\'ille d*:; Taris." His ship was immediately sent to aid in oluckading the French coast t(^ prevent Bonaparte from invading England. He afterward saw service in the Baltic, and later, in the arctic seas, with the whale-fishery protection fleet. He had been in Halifax almost soon enough to snuff the smoke of the famous battle between the " Chesapeake "and " Shannon." So, though he had not gone round the globe, he had ])eercd over some of its edges. In 1817 he was recalled from service in Bermuda by the alarming illness of his father. Remaining idle for some time he felt a sailor's restlessness, and wrote to a friend, seeking a position in an African discoverv expedition. Before closing ihe letter, his eye fell u[)on a scrap in a newspaper cone erning a polar expedition. He at once added : " Hot or cold is all one to rne — .Africa or the l\;le." This letter was shown to # fill ill i,i ( .( (^ '< >i 86 Arctic IIkkoes. 1 ' E' M'-. Barrow — Serretar}- of the Admiralty, ^Tfer- ward Sir John — tlicn the chief official promoter of arctic discovery voyages. He smiled, pocketed the letter, and obtained for Edward a commission as second in command of tiie John Ross expedi- tion, where we have made a slight but favorable acquaintance with him. Let us now return to the story of this chajjter — Parry's first voyage in full command. In two months afier the arrival in England of the ships sent out in 1818, two ships, the " Hecla" and " ('iri|)er," were sent into the naval dock to be made as strong as oak and iron could be made, to fight th.. arctic ice in the spring of 1819. Clreat deliberation and careful incjuiry and examination were used by the Admiralty before selecting a commander. But Tarry said playfully, " I am sure they \\]]\ give me some finger in this new pic." He was at last ])ut in command, and given the au- thority necessary to equip the ships and appoint their officers and crew. The command of the "Griper," a gun-brig of one hundred and eighty tons, was given to Lieutenant Liddon, It is a singular fact that while Parry was given this flattering authority, yet he sailed on this ex- pedition with no higher rank than that of lieu- tenant, while his neglected former commander, Ross, was promoted to a captaincy. The pro- motion was given, probably, to conciliate wounded pr u le. Parrv, who never seemed at a to^ pertinent word, complacently remarks m reference to these facte. "Promotion is nothing to the Important Success. «7 command of the ' Hecla,' with the chart of Lan- caster Sound in my hand." 'I'he two vessels contained ninety-four men, fifty-eight in the " Ilecla," and thirty-six in the " Grii)er." They sailed on the nth of ^Tay, 1819, a fortnit^ht later tlian the start of the preceding year. JUit they made better time by a month in reach i in the mouth of Lancaster Sound. But to reach it they had to fight tlieir way along the west coast of (ireenland, although they had no worse difficulty than " lloes " and threatening bergs. But when they undertook to force their way through the middle i)ack, the work was truly terrifying. Now they were pushing cautiously through the loose current or wind-driven ice ; then thev were "tracking" along the edge of ice as solid, appar- ently, as the land, the sailors strung along with tiie drag ropes over their shoulders ; and, at another time, they hastily " tumbled " into their boats to tow the ship from a threatened "nip" between two icebergs. A week was thus sj)ent ; the western side of Baffin Bay was gained. A\'ith a fair, fresh breeze, a clear sea and jubilant feelings, the ships entered, and went spanking up Lancaster Sound. The mast-heads were crowded by the officers, and the men were scattered about the rigging, all with throbbing hearts, waiting the developments of theii' sailing through these hitherto unknown waters. The men on deck received the messages sent down from the crow's-nest with almost breathless inter- est. Every day's western progress added to their now greatly excited hope. On and still 01. they t!; 1, - n \ ! j 1 88 Arctic Heroes, H t '» f sailed, and no bugbear mountains impeded their course, nor for a long time did any real obstacle destroy their ciurished exj)ectations. Once land ahead caused a momentary despondency, but it proved to be an island. In endeavoring to go south of it, they discovered an opening fiDin the Sound southward \vhi( Ii Tarry nanied I'rince Regent Inlet. vSoon after they discovered a brt/ad channel to the north, and called it Welliiigton Channel. Thus they were giving to the world a knowledge of these im})ortant waters which stand so jjrominent on the present maps of the arctic regions. A\'hen they had sailed to the ioo° west longi- tude, a curious and important incident occurred. The compasses first became very sluggish, and then failed altogether as they turned into Trince Regent Inlet. They felt sure the " magnetic north pole " was not far away, but they could not stop to ascertain the interesting fact, for were they not at last on the long-sought northern high- way to India .' A\'hat was the magnetic pole to that ? They soon re.u hed the meridian, i io° west from (ireenwich. ilis majesty's government had offered ^25,000 to those of his subjects who first reached this j)oint, and the money was now theirs ! They lay now off a large island to which they gave the name Melville. They pushed on some days more, slowly and laboriously towing and warjjing the ships, until thev were reluctantly convinced that nothing was kit to them but to find, as well as they could, the best iiarbor in which to spend f\ ■ i m ■Ml I I " > Ml il If. I'll , ■■'J ^f CJ hfl If) m * Important Success. 91 N (a c c «j -C h c C/5 the long arrtir winter. ( )i-i the T2th of Sei)temher thev were hchl fast hv tho ice. A < (jinpanv was sent out to obtain inforinalion concerning tlieir ])osition, and the) wi.'re o\'ert;ikei"i h\ a snow-storm, and did not return at tlie apiiointed time. I'our other parties were sent in seart h of them, and several days of paijiful suspen^e |)assed before all were safely returned. A good harbor was found, under Melville Island, two miles off. To this they resolved to cut a channel and tra( k their ships. They accomplished it in four days, officers and men working in good spirits, though often up to their knees in water. They anchored the ships about a " cable's length " from the shore, amid the heartiest cheers. Parry's qualifications as a leader in an arctic adventure were now more than ever to be tested. To govern men having the shar]) points of cliar- acter possessed by sailors requires a master-hand, even when there is work for them to do, and hope of the immediate accomplishment of a desired end to stimulate them. Hut to keej) them under discipline and in good si)irits through long months of darkness, with nothing to do, is the test of superior tact and energy. Fortunately Parry was equal to the situation. The ships were immediately strip])ed of their sails, the upper dec:ks cleared and covered in. This made a roomy place tor exercise and amuse- ments. Hunting parties were organized and " game laws" established, that they who "stayed by the stuff" might share with tn(;se who took the ])rey. •I 1 ')] • .'I 'i^ '& 3i| f!S> p ■ -s ^ . t • 1 • ( ■ ■ r ' Ml 92 Arctic IIkrofs. But game was not abundant. The musk-ox's time to arrive at the ^i(■inity was in May, and his time to leave was the last of September — just as the strangers arrived. Hears were occasional visitors, and the deer herds remained only through Octo- ber. The men seemed not to be skilled in taking these animals, though they shot a few deer. Once a bear followed a man to the very side of the ship. He was wounded, but got off. On another occa- sion fifteen deer were seen lying down, not afar off, guarded by a faithful stag, who stood as a sentinel with head and ears erect. They were ai)])roached by the hunters and off they ran, their leader giving the alarm and occasionally making the entire circuit of the fleeing herd as if to warn them to keep together; when any one lagged be- hind he quickened its ste[)s by a blow on the rump with his horns. Not one was taken by the pur- suers. Neither seals nor walruses were seen ; even most of the sea-fowls left before mid-winter. Wolves and foxes remained to give hideousness to the darkness. The " great whales " were abun- dant, but none accommodatingly stranded upon the beach, as they did for the shipwrecked island- ers of the Bering expedition. Vegetation was as meager as the animals Avere few. Dwarfed willows, a mean saxifrage, and small mosses and grass, made nearly the sum of Melville Island greenness. It was, indeed, a dis- mal place, and contrasted sharply with the hoped- for islands beyond the continent to which they believed, a few weeks before, they were sailing. *' TO liM»« » V Important Success. 93 But Parry kept the thoughts of his men pleasantly- occupied. Each tlay nil took a dose of lime-juice and water as a preventive of scurvy. The sailors had their times of marching around the cleared and covered upjjer-deck, to the tune of a hand-organ and vivacious songs. The sun left them the 5th of November, l)Ut the men's thoughts were taken from the gloomy fact by the commencement of a series of ingeniously continued amusements. Dramatical ])erformances had been suggested, and LieutL-nant lieechey was ai-pointed manager; other ofticers came for\\;n\l as "star" performers. The jjlays were both orig- inal and selected, Parry writing some of them himself. 'I'he prei)arations, of course, e.xcited the curiosity of tlie sailors, and gave them ];leasant anticipations; and when the first i)erformance, that of " Mi.'js in her Teens," came off, they were convuised with laughter, and were sui)i)lied with a topic of talk for their idle hours. Another means of diversion was the publishing of a weekly newspaper. Parry had given the name of North Georgian to certain islands of the vicinity, so the paper was called, " The North Georgian Gazette and Winter Chronicle." All were invited to contribute, Captain Sabine taking charge as editor. Doubtless its pages were very spicy, and its weekly appearance looked for with interest ; but the lack of a column of " home news" was sadly missed. When Christm.is came it was enlivened by a 4 I :t it| >:•; i 1 < ■ > 1 ■ ii i'J ■m i m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y A ^^"^ ^ /-/, '^^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 t5 '""== 1^' ill 1^ 1.4 — 6" M 22 M 1.6 ^ ^ > 23 WEST ViAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.V 14580 (716) 872-450^ i/.JL "^ 94 Arctic Heroes. ]A ■\ 4 dramatic performance of " The North-west Pas- sage," written by Parry. All had as good a dinner as the circumstances allowed. The officers' table was sii])plied with a piece of English roast beef, preserved since May without salt, simply by freezing. The sun reappeared above the horizon the yth of February. On the lyth of March daylight had so far ventured as to invite all to outside work, so the dramatic jjerformance closed with a spirited and appropriate address. Parry now improved the time in making explo- rations. They found on the western side " one of the most habitable and pleasantest spots yet seen in the arctic regions, the vegetation being more abundant than in any other place, and the situa- tion favorable for game." The ships were not released from their icy fet- ters until the ist of August. Before they left, a L.^ge block of sandstone was selected on which they engraved a record of their stay. When relieved from their ten months' imprison- ment the explorers made perilous efforts to sail farther west. But on the 26th of August, after ^ consultation of the officers of both ships, a voyage home by the old way was declared to be the only sensible course to be pursued. They arrived in England in two months, and were received joyfully ; and well they might be, for Parry had greatly enlarged the knowledge of the polar regions, and made a long stride toward the western opening of the north-west passage. He and for the the He Intportafit Success. 95 had, too, brought l^ack every man with whom he sailed, excepting one seaman, who died at Melville Island of an old disease. Parry was immediately promoted to the rank of commander, and honors were showered upon him from every quarter. But as for himself, his first act on landing was to march, at the head of his officers and men, to church, to render public thanksgiving to God for their preservation, and to acknowledge his hand in their success. .■:U Wa % 96 Arctic Heroes. 'L : CHAPTER XL ARCTIC SEA-MONSTERS. it '■ft I'i i :' r I'V n »i{ OUR narrative of arctic discovery thus far has shown that the vast extent of waters included in Davis Strait and T3affin Bay had become considerably well-known to the civilized world. But the reader may be disposed to in- quire, What profit to mankind have been these perilous adventures? We shall not be surprised if this question is frequently asked as we pro- ceed. Since the question is a natural and proper one, we will pause occasionally to answer it as far as we are able. The Greenland whale-fishery followed in the wake of these discoveries, and has, down to a late period, been a source of wealth both to the new and old world. It is so arctic in its character that v)ur knowledge of this icy region would be imper- fect without a sketch of this perilous business. Fortunately we have the material for such a sketch furnished by William Scoresby, brought before the reader on a previous page, a captain of a whale-ship, an intelligent man, a bold explorer of the early part of this century, and a true Chris- tian. The old Northmen did a little at catching the mon *ers of the deep in the waters north-east of ^ Arctic Sea- Monsters. 97 Greenland. In the history of Ohther's voyages, in the tenth century, tliere is sometliing said about the Norwegian whalemen, They carried on this grer.t business on a small scale, no doubt, and with little capital. Later accounts speak of whales on the shores of France and Spain, troubling the nets of the fishermen. As the whales scorned the nets, which, indeed, were not -et for them, the fishermen shot their arrows into tneir huge bodies. These, very likely, weie at first scorned, too; but men are always great on expedients to conquer inferior animals, so that his majesty of the sea became, in time, subjected to the lord of creation. Whales, like ships, have in every age been occa- sionally wrecked. This comes not from being blown ashore, nor, we presume, from being carried ashore by strong currents, but by pursuing their prey too eagerly toward the beaches, and so getting aground. It may be that they get up exj)loring expeditions, and are too eager to see the men and things on land, just as men are often wrecked by beir'i; too eager to see the whales and other sights on the sea. Be that as it may, so common was it in 1315 for whales to get stranded on the British Islands that the king, Edward II., declared by law that "all wrecked whales shall belong to the crown," and a hundred years later Henry IV. gave to the Bishop of Rochester all the stranded whales on the coast of his bishopric. What this "picking" amounted to we are not informed, but it must have been regarded by the bishop as rather a fishy way of supporting his dignity. *H il ■ < 1 1 '■ ii I 1 $ H i:^ f' 1 « )i ii ' ji-*- ill 111 m ■j -... \ n- m '' I i ' ■! \i t y a^i! i|'i! :';li 98 Arctic Heroes. : 8 ,t The ships of the Russian Company were the first "to strike oil" in tlie west (irecnland seas. This was in 161 1, and the next year all maritime Eurojje was attacked by the oil fever, and fleets spread all sail fur these waters. The whales here caught were not as large as those they had been catching, as they seldom exceeded sixty-five feet long, whereas those mostly caught near Spitz- bergen were not seldom a hundred feet. But these are a different species, having no fins along their backs — " smooth ba^-ks," as the sailors call them — and they contain a wonderfully large fount- ain of oil. Their head is immense; and the lip, which is from fifteen to twenty feet in breadth, and five to six in height, is attached to the under- jaw, and forms the cavity of the mouth. This, when open, must therefore expose a very roomy place — a comfortable sitting-room, at least, for a small family. Scoresby thinks that such a mouth M'ould contain a ship's "jolly-boat," "men and all." Parts of such boats, with now and then a man, have certainly been taken into such mouths in the deadly conflicts between these whales and the whalers. In these cases the /hui^ may be "jolly," but the //le/i are in another state of mind altogether. The fins, placed about a third of the length of the body from the snout, are from seven to nine feet long, and four or five feet broad. Immense paddles are these, when worked by an engine sixty feet long ! The tail of the whale is an article he much esteems, and, if consulted whether to part I ■:v il!|1^ "i;» ::!■»! Arctic Sea- Monsters. 99 with his head or tail, would, we are sure, unhesitat- ingly say, "Neither!" It contains a hundred scjuare feet, supjjosing it to belong to one (jf average size, and it is with this, in part, that he tries to escape from his enemies, the whalemen ; not succeeding in this, or if taken unawares, he frightens them off by a commotion with it which makes the sea boil; or he may gi\e it a flourish and send boat and men high in the air, or to take their last plunge in the great deep. His eyes, placed in the side of his head, are small — only about the size of those of the ox. He has no ears, and no place can be discovered for the admission of sound until the skin is removed. So he is slow to hear, cjuick to see, and great at blowing. The way the latter is done is this : he has on the top of his head two nostrils, that is, holes, narrow, but six or eight inches long. Through these the whale breathes, throwing high into the air, when he does so, a vapor mixed with mucous, making at the same time a loud noise. This Greenland whale has a mouthful of whale- bone, which answers his purpose instead of teeth. It is the same article that we have for umbrella- frames and other uses; but in the mouth of the original owner it is in wide, long sheets with a hair- like fringe. These sheets or plates are suspended from each side of the upper jaw. A large whale carries in this way a ton and a half of tliis article. When feeding on the minute animals which crowd the olive-colored waters, the Greenland whale swims swiftly just under the surface, with his i W\ 'K 1, «' ! >- a -^1' *"l| |H 1 J ill i!t- T< f lill I i I! I '■♦ B1| m i I 100 Arctic Heroes. capacious mouth open. The water which thus pours into it goes out at its sides, passing through the hair-like strainer, leaving the food behind. The female whale gives birtli in the spring to one offspring, to which she gives nourishment at her breast. Her new-born child is a nice large baby, often fourteen feet long. It stays by its mother a year or mere, and there is the strongest affection between them. Scoresby relates the fol- lowing incident illustrative of this: — "The men of a whale-ship's boat launched a harpoon into a baby whale, or ' sucker,' which was unwatchfully sporting in the deep with its mother. It was easily drawn to the stern of the boat by the line attached to the cruel harpoon which had entered the vitals of its victim. The mother, for the moment, had not missed her child. When she saw w^hat had been done while she was off her guard, she came at the i)oat with a fury that made even the brave old whalemen tremble. Bending with all their might to their oars they rowed away from their maddened enemy, at the same time letting the line out to which was attached the young w^hale, which, of course, dropped far astern. The mother, though mad enough to swallow the boat, men and all, stopped, picked up her wounded child, and started off in an opposite direction. Six hundred feet of line w^ere run out, making a heavy burden for her, in addition to the object of her care. When the end of the line was reached the men still retained its attachment to the boat, thus giving the whale the boat to carry as well as the Arctic Sca~Monstcrs. lOI line and the * sucker.* Still she clung to it, darting this way and that to disengage it from tlie line. AVhile her maternal affection was thus exhausting her, the boat stole up, harpoons were i)lunged into her, and mother and young became the prey of the fishermen." The arctic whale, though it can fight for its young, and is dangerous when closely pressed, is very timid and unconscious of its strength. If it were not so the whalemen would fare badly. When struck by the harpoon, slyly thrown into him, he rounds up his back, turns his head down- ward, throws up his enormous tail, and dives down — down he goes at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, and stops not until he reaches oottom. The line attached to the harpoon he carries with him smokes as it runs over the side of the boat, and woe be to the man around whose legs it may accidentally be coiled; he is jerked overboard and carried down, or his limb torn from his body. The boat even, if the line " fouls," that is, fastens to any part of it, is carried under, like the cork on a boy's fishing-line when a big fish gets hold of the bait. When the whale has been down from twenty to thirty minutes, up his huge form rises to the sur- face, disturbing the sea and rolling great waves over its surface. The watchful boats cautiously approach, and the monster receives sharp thrusts from steel-pointed lances, or from more deadly harpoons. The signal is given, and fresh crews and other boats hasten to the scene of conflict. The 7 ! 'A I 111 ' ) i hi] i iil H i it .1 ■ i ' -^ I< < if 1'^ '.: w^ III i 111 « * ^8!i: r; { '}' 102 Arctic Heroes. sea, and sometimes the men, are stained with blood. If there is an ice-floe near, the whale im- mediately rushes for it and dives beneath the sur- face. If the whalemen's line of a mile or two long runs out before the whale is out of breath, his tormentors are glad to "cut away " and lose line, whale, and all, rather than risk i)eing drawn iintler the ice. If no such refuire is at hand the frightened, bleeding, exhausted monster continues to dive and rise to the surface, the whalemen all the while greeting his reappearance with a thrust of their weai)ons, now wounding, and i\u n, with the shout of " Stern, all ! " darting as swiftly away. It is brute strength against intelligent skill, and the contest is unequal. That tail does occasionally strike avenging blows which clothes a whole ship's com])any '. ourning, and puts its (lag at half mast wher returns home ; but the sea-monster is loser in the contlict. The following incidents will show the whale's side of the contest. A small whale was harpooned by a ship's boat. Other boats at the moment pushed off from the ship to share the danger and triumph of the fray. But the whale proved to be both wide awake and plucky. After his first dive he started off on tlw run. The relief boat came up, for, with a boat in tow, an iron in his side, and the exhaustion of a long, breathless dive, he made only slow time. The harpoons of four boats were lodged in him, but still he pushed ahead. One boat, thinking to end the chase, ventured too near, and was instantly sunk. Finally, he took in tow A re tic Sea - ^ I ousters. 103 six miles of line and three boats, but he was not captured until he had drawn his captors nine miles from the sliip. At another time a boat made fast to a whale. I'>y hard rowing two others attached themselves, and all pricked him with their shari) lances, and lacer- ated him with their harpoons at every opportunity. To get rid of these annoyances he struck off from east to south under water. I laving obtained a mile of line he swung round in a circuit, working off at the same time from the ship. This serious sport went on for seven hours, and then a storm arose. But both sides refused to yield the contest. To impede the progress of the whale, and to keep together, the boats were lashed one to the other, and put broadside lo. Still the smitten monster tugged away at the line, now weighing of itself half a ton, for another seven hours. The night being at hand and the storm increasing, the boats began to think of retreating. But to cover their retreat they attached the end of the line to a large cask, and moored one of the boats to the cask, raised upon it the ship's flag, and abandoned the whole. They lay by as near as possible during the night, and in the morning looked upon a deserted field. All was gone, and they returned ingloriously to the ship. While some whales thus sho\ved fight, the greater number yielded their coveted treasures of oil, and the arctic whalemen, while often adding quite as much as the mere explorers to the world's knowl- edge of the northern seas, enriched their ownc: ;. ^. f'l ' 1 m \\\ i •:' \ n 14; i!^ H < . pi t * I'- 'J''' s i 104 Arctic IIkroes. One ship's car^o of whalebone and oil sometimes sold for a hundred thousand dollars. But these gains, like the knowledge of the ex- ])lorers, were obtained at the expense of much suf- fering from the cold, great risks from blinding fogs, from icebergs, ice-lloes, currents, and storms, as well as of much jjcril from the whales them- selves. The early whalers which followed in the wake of discovery ships seldom returned with ail the men with whom they left home. Flags at half- mast, on returning to the home harljor, solemnly attested the dangers of hunting the arctic sea- monsters. Ill 111 iiii ■: a 1! Vomn the Coppaminc. 105 CHAPTER XII. DOWN T HE C O r r !•: R M I N E . IN our story of lUichan's expedition to the Spitzber^^en waters ue introduced, as second in command, John Franklin. Since he is now to appear chief actor in scenes of darin*.; and peril, and is to be long before us in our narratives of the ad- ventures of others, we give a few facts of his pre- vious history. He was trained from boyhood for a life on the .^ca. He first appears in history as a midsi.ipman on the Australian coast survev. While thus engaged he was shi[)wrecked in the " Porpoise." As midshipman and master's mate he was in the fleet with the naval hero, Nelson, and at the battle of ("openhagen. He was lieu- tenant at the bloody battle of I'rafalgar, in 1805. He belonged to the ship " Bedford " in the attack on New Orleans in 1815, and there, commanding in the boats, he was wounded. His conduct on the occasion received " honorable notice " in the report of his superior officer. He obtained, in his naval experience, the reputation of a thorough seaman, a skillful surveyor, an ajjt handler of nautical instruments, and a high-minded, honor- able man. The spring after his return with the Buchan ex- pedition he was given the independent command |i!||| Si s i % 1, ■ ir If' till , !l J i' iilf f M •:'* . til ■ m ■: ,! '1 Ih, V "II 'il 4 W'ii 1 06 Akc'Iic Heroes. of a new one, at tlie same time that his friend Parry was so honored. Ihii it was one somewhat out of the line of his previous ex])erience. He was instructed to proceed through Hudson Bay to one of its designated depots on its coast, tlien to go by land to the source of the Coppermine River, follow it down to the Arctic Sea, and push his way in boats along the coast eastward. It was hoped that Parry and Franklin would thus meet and prove a north-west passage. P^anklin left England on this hazardous under- taking in May, 1819. His companions were John Richardson, naval surgeon, George Back and Robert Hood, midshi])men, and John Hepburn, servant. Dr. Richardson was an enthusiastic and competent naturalist. • The midshipmen were apt sketchers of natural objects, and skillful in maj.)- ping out the surveys. The servant proved himself a worthy helper in the enterprise, and not inferior to any member of the expedition in times of great exigency. They arrived at the York Factory, on the south- western shore of Hudson Bay, August 30, after full an average amount of arctic peril from the ice, currents, and storms of the bay. Here they were provided with a boat for river voyaging, provis- ions, ammunition, and such necessary things de- manded by the enterprise. On the 9th of Septem- ber they set out, and, after ascending numerous rivers, crossing lakes and swamps, making port- ages around falls, and weary climbing over hills, they arrived at Cumberland House, on Pine Lake, Dow 71 the CoppcnnifU'. 107 the latter part of October. They had traveled full seven hundred miles. The midshipmen had taken sketches. Dr. Ricliardson had secured valuable contributions to science, and their com- bined efforts had resulted in a survey of the route. Here they paused until January. They were now on a chain of lakes, including the Slave Lakes, which bore north-west, and then nearly due north, until, with contiguous rivers, they communicated with tiie source of the Cop])erniine. In January the party divided, and Franklin, Back, and Hep- burn pushed north-west to Fort Chipeway, on Lake Athabaska, Dr. Richardson and Midshipman Hood remaining at the Cumberland House until spring. Franklin arrived at his point of destina- tion the 26th of March, having made a journey of eight hundred and fifty-seven miles. The party complained bitterly of the difliculty of snow-shoe traveling. A clumsy machine of two or three pounds weight, attached to swollen ankles and galling, bleeding feet, kept them often in an agony of pain. When the April rains thawed the ice, innumer- able frogs commenced an incessant din. So in- stantaneous was their croak, with the loosenin"" '^f the ice, that Mr, Hood declared that they must have come forth full grown, and just as tlie fall freezing arrested -hem, Franklin speaks of some experiments Dr. Richardson made of the effect of cold on fishes. Several were taken in a lively condition from the water and frozen in a low temperature for thirty-six hours. In this state. * H 1 ill !l If t if Si Hi I iW f ." yi ii fi . 1* I 08 Arctic Heroes. 11 .if ■ i ■.. id f i;: ] "i III ' 1 • I 1 they could be broken by a blow from the hatchet, and their intestines taken out solid. When ex- posed to warmth and gradually thawed, they were wide awake again and ready for a swim. In July Dr. Richardson and Hood having joined the party, Franklin began to think of pushing forward. Sixteen Canadian half-breeds — French and Indian — were engaged to accompany them, to whose party a Chipeway woman was soon added. With these the expedition left the fort the latter part of July, 1820, in three boats, the crews join- ing as they paddled off in a lively boat song. At one of their early stoi)ping-place; they secured two interpreters, and the valuable services of a Mr. Wentzel, an agent of the fur company, who was to manage the Canr; bans of the expedition — no light task — and the Indians whom they might meet, he being experienced in both branches of service. An Indian chief by the name of Akaitcho, and several of his men, joined them soon, and were use- ful as hunters. All went well for awhile, the dis- coverers making good progress northward. Deer were plenty, and the hunters were successful in getting a supply from their herds, and securing other game. But as they went north the deer dis- appeared, and their provisions were not abundant. The Canadians became discontented on short rations, and threatened rebellion. This feelmg Franklin at once checked by stringent discipline. But the whole party were soon brought to a stand. They built huts, and went into winter-quarters, Doiv7i the Coppermine. 109 calling the place Fort Enterprise. They had traveled five hundred and fifty miles since leaving Fort Chipeway, making over fifteen hundred miles since the commencement of the year, and twenty-two hundred since leaving York Factory. When established in his winter-quarters, Frank- lin planned a journey to the head-waters of the Coppermine. He declared his desire of assuming all the risk of an immediate descent to the sea, even, and inquired of the chief Akaitcho w-hat he thought of it. '■ Well," he replied, after using all the argument occurring to him, " I have said every thing I can urge to dissuade you from going on this service, on which it seems you wish to sacrifice your lives as well as the Indians who might attend you ; however, if after all I have said you are determined to go, some of my young men shall join the party, because it shall not be said that we permitted you to die alone, after hav- ing brought you hither; but from the moment they embark in the canoes, I and their relatives shall mourn them as dead." Thus, no doubt, wisely counseled, Franklin gave up the idea of reaching the sea, but he sent off Hood and Back, with a few Canadians, in a canoe, to ascertain the distance to the Coppermine River, while he and Dr. Richardson started afoot for the same purpose. After much suffering from great exposures and insufficient food, both parties were glad to get back to Fort Enterprise. It was soon apparent that Franklin's large party could not live on the resources of the vicinity, 'A liJ 111 n « « I; » - * a. i ^«,f I' it'f '': ,::? i ■;'; . ■■k< 'ii!! ;l , ill' Ill . 110 Arctic Heroes. and have provisions enough for the voyage to the sea. In this emergency Back volunteered to return to Fort Chipeway and hurry along sup- plies, which were to come from the Cumberland House. This most daring ])roposition was ac- cepted, and Mr. Wentzel, two Canadians, and two Indians, with their Avives, agreed to go with him. This party set out October i8. Wentzel, on reaching Fort Providence, returned, taking two Esquimo guides with him. Back and the Cana- dians and Indians suffered greatly as they pushed forward. Being nearly starved, one of the women cut a hole in the ice and caught a fine pike, and gave it all to the white men, not one of the In- dians being willing to eat a morsel of it. On being asked why, they replied : " There ^vill not be enough for us all, and we are accustomed to starvation, but you are not." At one time while crossing on the ice a narrow arm of Slave Lake he fell through. Though the cold was intense, he escaped unhurt. On another occasion while crossing a sheet of ice over deep water it began to give way ; he increased his speed, the ice bending beneath his feet, and he had a long race for life, not daring to stop until he reached the shore. The party had no better lodging- place than a camp in the woods, and Back had for a covering orly a blanket and deer skin, while the thermometer was often forty de- grees below zero, and once fifty-seven below. Sometimes they were two or three days without any food, and not unfrequently on short allow- ii' Down the Coppermine. Ill ance. We shall not wonder, then, at the followin'^ statement : " One of our men caught a fish one day, which with some moss scrai)ed from a rock made us a tolerable supper. While we were eat- ing it I perceived one of the women busily scrap- ing an old skin, with the contents of which her husband presented us. This consisted of pounded meat and fat, but a greater proportion of Indian and deer hair than either. It was eaten by us, after three days' privation, as a great luxury." It was under such circumstances that Back made the whole journey to Fort Chipeway and back on foot, much of the time on snow-shoes, traveling in all eleven hundred and four miles. He was absent five months, but returned safely, probably saving the expedition by bringing in timely supplies. No more heroic act is on record, nor one exhibiting greater power of physical en- durance. Even the Indian women must have conceded that this white man could stance and walk with the best of the Indians. During the five months of Back's absence, the party at Fort Enterprise had no small fight with cold and hun- ger. Fish were caught until the fifth of Novem- ber, and afforded a timely supply of food. After that the^' were sometimes short of necessary sus- tenance. The cold in the mean time froze the trees to their v'ery centers. So hard were they that in attempting to cut them they spoiled their axes, so that by tlie end of December only one was fit to use. This embarrassed them in getting fuel for iheir fires. !< I ^1 1 12 Arctic Heroes. < * I The chief of his men were off much of the time on hunting excursions, while the people in the fort were anxiously waiting the result. It is ])leasant to state that, under these circum- stances, the Sabbath was strictly kept as God's day, Divine service was regularly performed; the wood of the day was laid in on .Saturday, and all secular labor, not a necessity, was omitted. The Canadians attended, though Roman Catholics; not understanding English perfectly, the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed were read to them in French. Each day they had two cups of tea without sugar, and on Sunday they broke the monotony by taking one cup of chocolate instead. Akaitcho had little success in hunting, and the number of his followers who hung about the fort expecting to be fed had increased to forty; he was at last persuaded to take them and leave. He insisted, however, on leaving behind, to be sup- ported by the discoverers, several women, among whom was his wife and daughter. The daughter, Green Stocking, was esteemed very beautiful, and had been twice married, though only sixteen years old. I-Ier mother now wished her to remain with her, and so she was quite annoyed when Mr. Hood took her portrait, for she said : — " The Great Chief of the pale faces may send and take her to be his wife." Various expedient's were devised to occupy the minds of the party in the long ten months' im- prisonment. The officers were, of course, much Down the Coppermine. 1^3 employed with their journals and scientific observ- ations. In the evening all joined in athletic and other games in a large hall. Hepburn became proficient in making soap and candles. The Ca- nadians had a whim that it was a mysterious oper- ation, and that its success was hindered if a woman approached the kettle. So Hepburn was rid of female intermeddlcrs at least, thouirh the women ' CD got the best of it by being spared the heavy labor. The new year, 1821, came in rather gloomily. The English tried to be merry, but the heart will be heavy on one scanty meal a day. In this state of things an ice-covered Canadian, sent ahead to herald Back's coming, cheered them with packages of letters from England and the news of approach- ing provisions. With spring the deer returned, and the hunt was rewarded with game. They now made preparations for the journey to the Coppermine and the voyage on its waters to the sea. Their Indian chief promised to stock Tort Enterprise with provisions by the first of September for their use should they return that way. On the 4th of June a party, under Dr. Richard- son, started ahead, and Frankh.i followed soon after. The journey of nearly a month to the Cop- permine was made one of great fatigue by heavy portages and scanty daily food. They all, how- ever, safely embarked on the river. For awhile their Indian chief and his followers accompanied them, making themselves useful by hunting excursions along the shore. Dr. Richard- tr \ " I Tr 114 Arctic Heroes. Ill •a : ( .4 1 III ■!1 t-.ii 1 " ' ii ■'1/- 1 1; 1 ,; j II li'-l i son keenly observed the shore as they passed for ol)je('.ts of scientific interest. He was surprised at the few fur-benring animals in all their travels. The Indians had made so reckless a slaughter of them that they were nearly exterminated, so that but few beavers even were seen. He records in connection with this statement the following inci- dent : One day an Englishman was out hunting this interesting creature. Soon he caught siglu of five young beavers at play on a floating log. They were having an exciting frolic, in leaping upon the log, then pushing each other off, and scampering over their little play-ground. The sportsman crept softly up, sheltered by the bushes. As he raised his gun to fire, their innocent expres- sion of face, and child-like affection and confi- dence, 50 reminded him of the children he had left at home, that he dropped at once his gun and a tear, and left them unharmed. As the expedition approached the sea they came into the country of the Esquimo, the dead- ly enemies of the Indians. Franklin suggested to Akaitcho that it was a good time to make a treaty of peace. This he consented to do, but shcvved great fears the nearer he came to his enemies. On the other hand, the Esquimo fled the moment they saw the strangers. Finally, Akaitcho re- fused to go further, and returned to Fort Enter- prise with his men, promising to meet Franklin's party there. The next day Mr. Wentzel and four Canadians were sent back to Slave Lake to for- ward dispatches to England, and to see that the !'^ Down tJic Coppermine. IIS Indians were faithful to their engagement in refer- ence to a supply of provisions. Franklin was now in sight of the sea, and in the region of the musk-ox, several of which he killed. They had when attacked a singular, and for them- selves, an unfortunate hal)it. They at once hud- dled together, as if feeling a sense of safety in being screened from their enemy by one another. They arrived on the shore of the great Northern Oceans July 19, after a most painful and perilous journey of three hundred and thirty-four miles, one hundred and seventeen of which were made by dragging their canoes and stores overland. They now paddled along the coast with their frail canoes. The shore for awhile afforded good landing-places, so that they could encamp at night. But soon a steep and high rocky point, against which broken ice was piled, turned them further out to sea. Just then a violent storm arose, the thunder crashed, and their canoes were frightfully tossed by the sea. They were com- pelled to seek the nearest hiding-place. They found a few seal, which were too shy for their hunters, and some small deer, which fell into their hands. But the deepest gloom rested upon the encampment. The season of the severest arctic cold was setting in, and birds and beasts were leaving the desolate shore, while the men, whose courage had been remarkable, began to grow faint- hearted. Franklin saw that an immediate return was a necessity. He had followed the shore-line nearly six hundred miles. 1 \- il 'n ii6 Arctic Heroes. f|, l!l i f 4. On their return voyage they went up a river they had passed a few days before, until they came to an impassable fall. Stopping here to make two small portable canoes of their two large ones, they started in as straight a line as possible for Fort Enterprise, one hundred and fifty miles dis- tant. Their suffering from cold and hunger soon became too shocking to be detailed. An idea of it may be formed from the fact that they ate the leather and raw hide of their old shoes. Too weak to carry any burdens, Dr. Richardson's scientific specimens were thrown away, and, in spite of all remonstrance, the men abandoned the canoes. In these dreadful hours of want Franklin devoutly says : " We looked with hum- ble confidence to the great Author and Giver of all good for the continuance of the support which had always been given to us at our greatest need." When they came to the Coppermine they were detained nine days in constructing a raft on which to cross. Richardson, with a heroic devotion to the interest of his companions, proposed to swim the Coppermine, and carry a line tied around his body by which the raft could be drawn safely across. In attempting to carry into effect this proposal he nearly reached the opposite side, when, exhausted by swimming and chilled by cold, he sank. His companions drew him back by the rope in almost a lifeless state. They immediately rolled him in a blanket and placed him before a fire, when he revived sufficiently to give directions I V :3{ Tff his fely this ide, old, the Ltely re a ions Down the Coppermine. 117 in further efforts for his recovery. It was many months before he entirely recovered. >Vlicn twenty-four miles from Fort Enterprise, Hood's strength enlirelv failed. Dr. Richardson and Hepburn agreed to stay by him, and try to nurse him for further effort, while l^'ranklin jnessed on with the rest of the party. Before parting all united in prayer, thanking (lod for the recent rescue from imminent danger of one of their num- ber, and invoking Divine aid in further labor and peril. When Franklin had gone on some distance, three Canadians, and Michel, an Indian, turned back. The Indian reached Richardson's camp, but the others, as he reported, had perished by the way of hunger and cold ; but his conduct hav- ing been for some time strange, Hepburn ex- pressed to Richardson the opinion that Michel had murdered the Canadians. While these pain- ful thoughts were indulged, Michel shot Hood through the head when alone with him in the tent. Though the ball had plainly entered the back of its victim's head, Michel declared Hood had shot himself. The murderer was armed, and much stronger than the united strength of both white men, and used threatening language to them. In this awful state they lived for three days, the Indian watching every motion. But at last Richardson found an opj^ortunity to save their own lives, and end the guilty career of the murderer by shooting him with a pistol. Franklin, on reaching Fort Enterprise, found 8 I «|,; I. I r 1 u 1 «»9S IS '■ IB ^ ra ■ »1 ■ i 1* ' 1 ■!1 ,'l! m ■I", ' i !.'4 ' f }■ 1 J i i i St. ' {■ il ri8 Arctic Heroes. neither food nor their proinisinp; friend, Akaitcho. Back had ])een there, and left a note saying lie had gone after the chief, and, if need be, should push on to the next fort and hurry up supplies. After eipjhlccn days of terrible suffering at the fort, in whic;h many of the men died of starvation, Richard- son and Hepburn dragged their emaciated forms into the presence of their companions. The re- united explorers shocked each other by their ghost- ly faces and sei)ulc:hral voices. Another week of starvation passed, in which two more Canadians died. The Englishmen, in all their weakness, never omitted their morning and evening religious service. Si)ending most of the day lying on the hard floor, for they had no beds, the one most able would read from God's Word comforting promises, and from " Bickersteth's Scripture Helps." There was a melancholy interest at- tached to the latter. It was given them by a pious lady before they left London, and was in poor Hood's hands when he was shot. How sweet the thought to his friends that some " Script- ure Help " occupied his last earthly thoughts. On the yth of November three Indian mes- sengers arrived from the ever-faithful and indom- itable Back with sup[)Iies. These Indians not only brought food to the sufferers, but nursed them with untiring devotion, and conducted them slow- ly and cautiously to a place api)ointed by Back. Here were sledges and dogs and the comforts of the early days of their explorations, and by easy stages, stopping some months at Fo-t Chipeway. Doivu the Coppennine, 119 they reached York Factory in July, 1822, alter an absence of three years, into which luul been crowded many life-times of suffering, and during which they had traveled five thousand five hun- dred and fifty miles ! When they reached England honors and con- gratulations awaited them. Franklin had been made cajnain, llood and Back lieutenants, and a post of honor, pay and comfort had been provided for Hepburn in the navy-yard. ■\ p M ' * t. . 1 .: 'A : r !■■»» .- {* li w »' 11:1 -i 120 Arctic Heroes. CHAPTER Xn. :!r ■ 1 '* -'.i • 1 ■ i 1:! ^li i'i .■■if '• A CHEERFUL ARCTIC WINTER. IN May, 1821, while Franklin was in the midst of his overland expedition, of which we have just given an account, his friend Parry commenced his second voyage. Jt was hoped, as before, that they would find the north-west passage and meet. We left Parry, on his return from Lancaster Sound, in the church with his officers and men, giving thanks to God for his guidance and preserv- ing care. We shall see him putting his x'"ace again toward the icy regions, in the same devout spirit. The flag-ship, this time, commanded by Parry, was the "Fury;" his second in command, Lieut. Lyon, took charge of the " Hecla.'^ The ships fortunately possessed about the same capacity for sailing, which kept them together. Many of the officers and men of the first expedition were in this, and the utmost harmony prevailed. An incident occurred, as the ships were sailing down the Thames, of a sad character, but bring- ing out the excellent Christian spirit of the com- mander. There was on board the " Fury " an old seaman by the name of John Gordon, a tall, well- proportioned man of great strength and activity. In the commencement of the former voyage he was like many sailors, rough, ready, profane, and ■I 1 ; A CJieerful Arctic Winter. 121 in coarse. But during tlie long ice-imprisonment at Melville Island, under the religious instruction of his commander, he was born of the Spirit. His Christian intluence on shipboard promised now to be of the most positive character. But in attempt- ing to throw a kedge-anchor from a boat the line 5'ttached to it became entangled round his body, jerked him overboard, and drowned him. Parry, in writing to his parents soon after this, says : " I can safely say I never felt so strongly the vanity, uncertainty, and the com})arative unimpor- tance of every thing this world can give, and the paramount necessity of a preparation for another and a better life, than this." No other incident worthy of note occurred to the discoverers until their arrival at the mouth of Hudson Strait. Here a supply transport, the " Nautilus," which came with them thus far. re- turned home with the last news. Let the reader now turn to a good map of North America. He will see that Parry's first voyage was past this strait, through Davis Strait and Baffin Bay to Lancasti^r Sound, then due west to ]\Ielville Island. Nozv he proposed to go west, through Hudson Strait to Southampton Island, and then to work his way north through unexplored waters to the Polar Sea. It was a bold plan, and we shall see how bravely it was prosecuted. The ships were soon enveloped in fogs. When these lifted they revealed a barren shore, drip- ping with melting ice, hills covered with snow, and whole lleets of icebergs, one covinting fifty- -« Y\ i H 'i ,f:l i'i '■» !l: |» -1 i I ] OO Arctic HEiiOKS. lour. A single berg, which attracted special atten- tion, rose two huridred antl fit'ty-cight feet above the sea. These crystal islands were no welcome sights to the strangers, When they ran a-tilt against each other, as they often did without warn- ing, it would be neither pleasant nor safe to be between them. I'here was another performance which the bergs fancied, but the sailors did not; they occasionally launched into the sea a large j^art of one of their sides ; this destroyed their balance, and they immediately turned something like a somersault. As the ships must of necessity some- times go c|uite near the bergs, as there was never any advertisement when this performance would come off, and as it was attended by a great com- motion in the sea, the whole thing was decidedly disagreeable. They reached, through much toil, the south- east shore of Southampton Island; the next pcmt at which they aimed was Repulse Bay, the most northern yet known water in this direction, lying a little west of the extreme north of this island. They pressed on up the nearest — the west — side, though the round-.bout way on the east side of the island was known to be much clearer of ice. Though sometimes decidedly warned off by the Ice King, they did enter Repulse Bay and found clear sai'"ng. Sending up a shout for the north-west passage, they spread their sails for di.e west. But it ])iovod a short tr\\) to the land boundaries in that direction. A little cu'st-fallen, they came out of the bay and sailed north, observing every little A Chcrvfitl Arctic Winter, 123 inlet wliich turned west. At the entrance of one of these, which they named Lyon Inlet, after the second oflicer in command, tliey found a small island. As tlie season for further navigation was ended tliey cut a canal in the ice to the southern shore of this island, which they called Winter Island, and drew up their ships into winter- quarters. They were better prepared with provisions, means of warming the vessels, and comforts every way, than on the first voyage. Once adjusted in their outward arrangements to their situation, Parry set in operation the means to interest and profit his men, and so to niake them contented and happy. A thoughtful Christian lady had put on board a large and well-constructed magic lantern. This was set up, and afforded much amusement. The officers formed themselves into a niusical band. Parry himself joined, as he claimed to be " a pretty tolerable " performer. After a little practice they treated the crews to free concerts. We presume their audience were delighted and not over critical. But the Christian commander aimed not at amusement only. The lower decks of both ships were cleared, and made inviting school-rooms. Here, several evenings in each week, the men were taught reading and writing. At Christmas sixteen well-written copies were handed to the teachers bv sailors who when the school began could not write a line. It was said by the commander, with great satisfaction, '* Though many came out with me I f If I i f>i Ir ■ 1: U: • ■ i: 9 H • 1 4 1' m -1'' . I > ■a ill- '.y ;Et Mi^ ! n '^ ■M ■; ': ti 1 124 Arctic Heroes. who did not know a letter, when we returned home there was not a man who could not read his Bible." The position of the ships was in waters never before visited by white men, but Esquimo were soon found to be there. They at first viewed the strangers at a distance vvith agitation and wonder. When invited nearer they came on, running, skip- ping, and laughing, being well-nig> beside them- selves with the strange things beforo them. But they were soon on easy terms with ♦^^he sailors. The hand-organ and "fiddle" were put in opera- tion, making them wild with delight. They sung and danced in their way, uproarious the while with laughter, in which the strangers joined heartily. At one time the fiddler was sent out upon the ice, and " all hands " joined in the dance, savages and white men, officers and sailors, making a sight "both rare and comic." The "figure" of the Esquimo consisted in stamping and jumping with all their strength. One young sailor, a fresh, ruddy fellow, excited the special attention of the Esquimo ladies. They patted him on the face, and danced about him in a ring. The natives were so excited generally that they became uproarious, cutting the most extraordinary capers, and acting as if they were drunk. One of their jokes was to come slyly up to the sailors, shout piercingly in one ear, and give the other a rousing slap, bursting at the same lime into a loud laugh. The cook of the " Fury " was so fine a jumper that he was singled out for this kind of compliment. The poor fellow found his honors so uncomfortable that he had to flee to 1 i m A Cheerful Arctic Winter. 125 the ship to escape them. Parry says of himself: "While lookinj^ on I was sharply saluted in this manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the great amusement of the bystanders." One of the natives, glorying in his superior strength, and having thrown sevetal of his coun- trymen in wrestling trials, tried his muscles on one of the ofificers. The officer was a strong man and skilled withal in the game, so that the Es{[ui- mo soon came in contact with the ice rather vio- lently, at which the whole company set up a pro- voking laugh. But the vanquished champion, with admirable good sense, though rubbim; his shins for pain, joined heartily in the merriment. The same officer appointed himself teacher "of polite accomplishments." He took several Es- quimo women and taught them to bow, courtesy, shaRe hands, turn their toes out, and put on draw- ing-room airs generally, master and pupils pre- serving the while the most becoming sobriety. But the Esquimo had an eye to trade as well as fun. One day a company of their women came on board and sought the officers. As the ther- mometer was twenty degrees below zero, the white men were not surprised that their visitors were unusually well burdened with fur clothing; but their modesty was for a moment shocked when they began to undress in the open air. But they soon ascertained that the women had on several suits, the outer ones being intended for sale, they having put them on as a convenient way of get- ting their goods to market. I j: I' 'J ( ; .< i '^it 126 Arctic Heroes. ! ' 1 - 1 1? 1 ,..4. ■^'4 ■ r4 J 1'' ^ ! ■• "1, ! I The Esquimo matU; loud protestations of hon- esty in their business visits, and we shall present some pleasing illustrations of a good claim being made to such professions. But exceptions would occur, and they were lound to bear watching. One lady sold a single fur boot, but refused to sell the other though offered for it a good price. The zeal slie showed in refusing naturally excited in the purchasers of fur boots *' for ladies wear " a desire to obtain. But as the market was "tight" in this direction, the buyers rudely took the arti- cle by violence, it proved to be a valuable boot, containing two silver spoons and a pewter plate. The lady thief laughed heartily at the incident as a good joke, being sorry apparently only that she had not succeeded in getting off with her booty. Soon after the visit of the Esquimo the ex- plorers saw for the first time a village on the near sh;.ie, of buow huts. It burst upon them like stage scenery behind a suddenly drawn curtain. All wondered that not even the sharp look-out from the crow's nest had seen it before. But the Esquimo explained the mystery by putting one up in a few hours. They were constructed of smoothly cut blocks of snow, so adjusted as to make an architectural dome, th.e key-block going nicely into its place. It was entered by a hole at the side, into which a long tunnel was fitted. All M'ho entered must get dowm upon their knees and creep through this tunnel, which was fastened up on the inside, when necessary, with a block of ice. A CJieerful Arctic Winter. 127 Inside there was a raised platform of snow around the sides. Upon this skins were thrown, making thie sleei)ing-j)Kace for all the inmates. A Jiolc was left in the top for ventilation, into which, when they wanted the cold shut out, they fitted a piece of clear ice. This answered for a window. A large bone was fixed across the ceiling, to which they hung a stone lamp. Seal oil and various kinds of fat were burned in this, affording a fire for all purposes. These simple people seem to build th(Mr homes by a kind of instinct, like the beaver, and when not in contact with a higher civilization, the same arrangement passes from father to son, essentially unchanged for genera- tions. Parry on a visit to one of the huts purchased the stone lamp of the housekeeper. She took it down, em})tied out the oil, and wiped it out with a part of her dress. This not making it sufii- ciently clean to satisfy her tidy notion, she licked it out with her tongue. Among the visitors to the ships was a woman of a very remarkable character. As her husband's name was Okotook, we will call her, in brief, Mrs. O., for her own name is hard to write or speak. Mrs. O. had a fine musical ear, and a soft, pleasant voice. She was expert with her needle, and neat and clean in all her w(*rk. She did not look at things new and wonderful to her with a vulgar stare, but was curious to know their use. Mrs. O. had another excellence still more wonderful for an Esquimo ; she would not ■'-*A • : ,4 ii V ii| '■\ \ \ I 1' rA H "mt^ It I - '1 f- 1;-.' > »«>il ^^! i .1 '1 rf 1 *< k\ i'j i'T 1 1 ; ■Mi ■■I If'' 128 Arctic Heroes. steal — at least, the strangers believed that she would not. Her honesty certainly shone in two or three incidents which are given in the narra- tive. Here is one. She had promised to cover for Parry a small model canoe, but as it was not done on time he charged her with a want of good faith. Her vehement gestures and face of injured innocence ([uite moved him. After a while an Esquimo came in with whom the canoe had been intrusted by Mrs. O. to bring it to the com- mander. She immediately charged him with the delinquency. Parry adds: "It is impossible for me to describe the quiet yet proud satisfaction displayed in her countenance in thus having cleared herself from a breach of j)romise." Being well convinced of the superior intelli- gence of Mrs. O., it occurred to Parry that she might know something of the coast which he wished to explore. So he put paper and a pencil in her hand, and, with some difficulty, succeeded in making her understand what he desired. She began at once to fill sheet after sheet until she had filled a dozen with the outlines. of the coast. The officers, who looked on with deep interest, saw her indicate the turn of the land to the west, giving a water communication in that direction. This chart was afterward proved to be essentially correct. • Mrs. O. had a son, Toolooak, who inherited his mother's gifts and strong natural affection. He would sit in the cabin of the " Fury " hours together, with pencil and paper, absorbed in ^'1 CJiccrful Arctic Winter. 'J 129 sketching. His particular delight was in drawing animals, of which he seemed never tired. Parry asked him one day if he would go to En- gland with him. "No!" he replied promptly, repeating it with emphasis many times. " No ! If I should leave my father Okotook he would cry." Okotook w^as at one time sick. His wife im- mediately manifested the deepest concern, sitting by him for hours with her hair disheveled, refusing food and rest. The physician of the expedition gave him a dose of medicine. It was his first dose, and he took it with great fear and agitation. Taking the cup in one hand he extended the other to his wife, who grasped it with both of hers. She evidently expected some great catastrophe to fol- low. But Okotook recovered, and great in their estimation was the white man's medicme. Such is the remarkable picture given of Mrs. Okotook. But alas for the heathen ! Before part- ing with her she developed to the strangers unmis- takable traits of the savage. The reader will per- ceive more and more, as our narrative progresses, that the Esquimo, though having many amiable traits, and comparing favorably with any heathen on earth, are savages still, having but low moral sensibilities. How can it be otherwise since they see God so dimly. We will give only a few additional touches to our picture of Esquimo life and character before leaving Winter Island for further discoveries. Parry invited the belle of the tribe to sit for her il ! i' \ ■:^. hi i3() Arctic Heroes. rf jjortrait, and wlicn it was finished, he inquired of her cUkI her husband what prLSciilhc sljould make theui for the favor. 'I'hey both exckiimed, " A packet of talU)\v candles!" These l)eing given, they immediately ate them ! The wick of one, in going down, slightly embarrassed the kidy, and Parry politely drew it out of her throat. Commander Lyon invited an '' intelligent " young Esquimo to dine with him. He was first in- stnicted in the etiquette of the white man's table, and shown how to use a knife and fork and napkin. After dining, he was directed to the toilet stand to wash. He manifested such delight with the piece of perfumed Windsor soap that Lyon gave it to him. He laughed his thanks, and ate it on the spot. We shall find in i^.iost of the Arctic voyages thrilling bear stories, some of them tragic, and others comic, but most of them having the matter- of-fact character of substantial meals to starving explorers. Here is a comic one. One of the Esquimo was busy in disengaging from his net a seal he had taken, when he felt a slap on his shoulder. Thinking it came from a companion, he continued to work. But a second slap caused him to look up, when, horrors ! a grim old bear sat on his haunches with uplifted paws and open mouth directly over him ; he seemed to say, " My good fellow, don't trouble yourself further about this seal ; LU take it off your hands !" 'i'he imme- diate result was a healthy run by the Esquimo, and a good meal on seal's flesh by the bear. We cannot say that we think the transaction was ex- A Cheerful Arctic Winter. 13T actly fair on tlic bear's part, but these things touk ])lace in a heathen land. The merry winter at Winter Island was not succeeded by an early spring nor a successful summer. Sickness came just before navigation could be resumed, and three men died. In July the expedition sailed up Fo.x Channel, and, after many failures, much delay, and several land ex- cursions, the ships got into a narrow lead of water, at first free from ice. It soon, however, presented a field of " soft ice," through which, for some liiiie, they forced the ship by crowding on all sail. Parry had seen from a high point on shore to which he h.id climbed an oj^en sea beyond this strait, and this, of course, inspired intense desire to \)Wr.\\ through. But, alas ! they soon ran against sc^lid ice, where they remained for another wintc/. They .lamed the place Igloolik. A second Arctic winter may be endured, but it seems impossible for it to be enjoyed. The third summer's toil did not yield great results, but Parry was sure the water he was in was f^ither the Polar sea or an arm of it, though we may see by the map that he was not as near it by several degrees as when on his first voyage. So strong was his conviction that he had almost grasped success, that he ])roposed confidentially to Commander Lyon to spend a third winter in the Arctic ice. His plan was to send Lyon home in the " Hecla " witli dis))atches, and remain himself in the " Fury," and push north the following summer. He even prepared his dis- patches, saying to the home authorities that he IH: •y ' r »•. w 132 Arctic Heroes. should undoubtedly come home by way of Kam- chatka. This was plucky, but human energy is nothins^ when ojjposed to the defiance of ice and cold. These sent the scurvy among the men of the " Fury" and " Hecla," and they turned their prows homeward, which they were glad to reach in October, 1823, having been gone three sum- mers and two winters. 'HI i '■ Arctic Revival Work. 133 CHAPTER XIV. ARCTIC REVIVAL WORK. WE have found Captain Parry a pleasant and profitable guide in our excursions into the regions of cold, and as we are assured we shall not find his enthusiasm nor excellence of character diminished, we will follow him to the end of his career as an explorer. He remained at home only about six months after the close of his second voyage, and during a part of this time he was prostrate with sickness. In May, 1824, he sailed again with the " Fury " and " Hecla," this time choosing the " Hecla" as his flag-ship, the " Fury" being commanded by Lieu- tenant Hoppner. Prince Regent Inlet was to be the waters through which tlie north-west passage was now to be sought. The reader will see it just north of Boothia Bay, near which he spent the last winter of his late voyage. To reach it, however, he proposed to take his first route through Lan- caster Sound. As the details of this are much like those of the other expeditions, we shall only dwell upon a few striking incidents. It was Sunday morning in Davis Strait. All were assembled for Divine service except those required to sail the ship ; now, as she often had done, bravely fighting the ice. Parry had nearly 9 ''»( M \ \ i 1 f I I. II' .:. \^ J 134 Arctic Heroes. ended a sermon he was readini:;, when the quarter- master crept up to him with evident agit*ation, and whispered a few hurried words. The commander, without betraying any emotion, asked a few ques- tions in a low tone, and sent him back to his post of duty, continuing his reading, as though nothing had happened. The sermon finished, the Divine blessing implored, he raised his hand and said : — " Now, my lads, all hands on deck — but mind, no bustle ! " The fog had cleared up during the service, and the ship was heading toward the land. The ca[)- tain, judging from what the (juarler-ma.-^ter reported thai there was time to finisli the sersice, now took his place of command, and the ship was soon out of danger. '* I knew we could trust our captain!" ex- claimed one of the sailors, wiping a tear from his weather-beaten face. The vessels reached Regent Inlet in Septem- ber, and attempted to sail south. Tliis was pre- cisely what they attempted to do in the same place on the first voyage in 1819, but were jirevented doing bv tlie ice ; thev found now the same un- yickling barrier, and were forced i'lto winter-en southward, and ^'.xmed to him like turning his back ui)on the lon^ . i ught prize. Thougii unsuccessful in the main object of his l^ iges, Parry had added, more than any otlier explorer, to ■ • geographical knowledge of the ])olar regions. This was appreciated, and, even now, fresh honors were sliowereci ujion him. Put h. turned from these to let his new Christian light 6l);r ; in active, self-denying labor for the salvation f: ' , i; iV i:'i..- I3'S Arctic Heroes. iV of souls. I''roin henceforth many were to know him as a faithful Christian, who would never have known him as the brave, successful navigator. This change, he says, made him the subject of many sneers; but he could well afford to receive these unmoved, having the approbation of the good and the Sinile of his Master. While thus working for Christ, Parry married a daughtei of Sir John Stanley, v.'ho seems to have entered into all his 1 '.ors. But his enthusiasm polar exploration was unabated. A sledge jou. .ey from Spitzbergen to the northern ice center was now all the talk. The suggestion is said to have come from Scoresby, the intelligent and bra\e captain of a whaler, whom we have met before. Parry and Franklin had conversed together concerning the jjroposal. So, early in the s]>ring of T827, Parry was sent in his well-tried " Hecla," with a picked crev,-, to make the bold experiment. Their departure from England was honored by a " flag raising " on board, by his wife, and by the presence and blessing of many friends. The ship touched at a port in Norway and took in eight reindeer and a sup[)ly of their moss provender. With these they expected to make long and rapid journeys over le\'el if not smooth ice ; to this end they received lessons in their management and care from the Norwegians. ilaving reached a point a little north of Spitz- bergen, rhey committed the " Hecla " to her ice- prison and hoisted out their two boats, the " En- A rctic Re: 'ii 'a! \ \ 'ork. 139 d eavor and "■ Enterprise." These wc-e each twenty feet long by seven wide; tliey were fin- ished with a floor inside affording a good slecjMng- pi coil can ice; runners were so framed that the boats Id be placed upright upon them ; a water-proof vas covering was provi ded w heeh anc 1 1 IX- tures to make a carriage of them were stowed away among the freight; and the material and workmanship of all were of the best character. They were thus ])repared to sail, slide along on runners, or trundle ahead on wheels. Disappointment and baftled plans are always in order 'v^ the icy regions. Instead of something like a plain, and a solid continent of ice, as otiier explorers had seen, or thought they saw, our voy- agers were confronted at the start bv ul!;1v hum- mocks — jagged piles of ice — and drifting lloes. The reindeer could be of no use and they were left behind, probably as junks of frozen venison for future use. Having spent some weeks in short explorations, and in deferred hope of a better condition of traveling, the boat excursionists left the shi}) in the middle of June. There was at the moment an open, smooth sea, and they sailed away joyfully through eighty iniles. Then came floes, small and separated by oj^en spaces of water, so that now they traveled by alternately dragging the boats along the ice, and launching them for a sail. Parry adopted a novel method of dividing the working time ; they slept by day and journeyed by night. By this arrangement they avoided the it •*■ 'III ■*^ if' t J u -ll H tf 1 -■f 4. S5-J i TT 140 Arctic Heroes. I .'IS I ' i ' f^l ' ' glare, which caused a troublesome snow blindness, and had the warmest part of the twenty-four hours for sleei)ing. It worked well. 'i'hey arose in the early evening, attended to family prayers; breakfasted on warm cocoa and biscuit, cooked by a fire of spirits of wine, their only fuel ; changed their dry sleeping furs and boots for the wet ones of ::he night before, and they were ready for a start. They made it a point to have dry clothes to sleep in, but did not mind drawing on a wet or frozen boot in the morning* for if it was dry, it was sure to be wet soon after starting. They stopped at midniglit to dine, at daybreak they supped, chatted, said their prayers, and went to sleep to be awoke by the sound of a bugle in the evening. They tried hard to make the night pleasant and successful, and the day a time of sleep. But the explorers spent their strength for naught and labored in vain, for while //iry were toiling over the extended ice-rafts toward the north, these rafts were drifting south. Once, after five days of seeming good progress, the officers took an observation and ascertained that they had ad- vanced eight miles. Worse than this, they some- times tramped miles northward to find themselves farther south than when they started. This was a rough joke of the grim Ice King, who seemed to put his finger to his nose and say with a ghastly smile: " Beautiful progress I you must persevere tc the pole ! " But they did not, for having reached almost to the eighty-third degree of north latitude Arctic Rcvh'd/ ]\\)7'k. \4i — farther in that direction than civilized man had ever before gone — they turned round. On the back trip they shot and ate bears, the rightful owners of the soi/. But these natives were equally unscrupulous; for the strangers, when they ar- rived at Table Island, where they had deposited supplies, ascertained that the white polars had eaten all they wanted, which was just the amount they found. . The expedition arrived home safely in Septem- ber, and thus ended Sir Edward Parry's arctic experience. I U > j W-i I! ii^ i'. ; 's 11 142 Arctic Heroes. i i'' H-' -■■ 5 I; CHAPTini XV. LOST AN J) FOUND. W HILE Parry was making his third voyage in the north-west, and his sledge journey in the north-east, Franklin was on a second land expedition. He and his friend Richardson took the great Mackenzie River this time, and sailed down to its entrance into the Polar Sea. Here they separated, Franklin going west, hoping to reach liering Strait, or, at least, Icy Cape, near the dividing line of the British and the Russian — now the United States — possessions; Richardson going east to survey the coast to the Coppermine. Lieutenant Beechey, in the mean time, was sent in a ship to Bering Strait, to work his way east to Icy Cai)e and meet Franklin. The voyager from the Mackenzie did not cpiite reach Icy Cape, but Beechey's boats passed it and were within one hundred and sixty miles of Franklin when insur- mountable barriers turneci him back. The expe- ditions had essentially the same incidents as that we have narrated, only, haN'ing the advantage of their former experience, and having at tlie start a better outfit, their sufferings were far less. About ten years had jxissed away, filled with many stirring events relating to the arctic regions, since Captain John Ross's unfortunate return from I' i: Lost and Found. 143 Lancaster Sound. His llicn subordinate officer, Pcirry, liad earned in llie time, anil retired upon, his laurels. Ross, a really brave commander, chafed under the ])ublic censure imposed upon liim. In fact, it seemed harsh, and he had many sympathizing friends. They desired for him, as he desired for himself, an opportunity to retrieve liis reputation, Thit the (Government was out of breath with its hcjt haste to get to the north pole, lierades, whether their enterprises succeeded or failed, they cost great sums in gold and silver, r:nd many lives. So, having tried Parry and Franklin, in whom the nation had unqualified con- fidence, and who had done much, they would not trv one who had failed where he mi'j-ht ha\'e sue- ceeded. So Ross turned from the (lo\ernn)ent to a friend; that friend, in his mental distress, was Felix Booth, a wealthy merchant. He had been desirous for some years to send Ross to the arctic regions on the resources of his aniple purse, but he woidd not do it because the (lovernment had offered a hundred tlipusand dollars to any one who should discover the north-west ])assage. He would not be looked upon as seekin,^ the golden bribe rather than honor and the public good. But whei , in 1828, the Government withdrew the offer, he set about the preparations of an explora- tion. He laid down for the expense eighty-five thousand dollars ; Ross himself added fifteen thousand more, and the material aid was sup|)osed to be secured. But what exijensive a ^ musements these arctic journeys are I This goodly sum, as f»t H' \] i M \ 1 :',■ & k i^M M' i !i.J H fj ■', i !! ■ I N'' 144 Arctic Hkkoes. we shall see, purchased the means of only a small expedition. The " Victory," a Liverpool merchant-ship, was bought, and sent into the dock to have her hull toned up with the best of oak and iron f(jr the arctic fight. She was also adjusted to a steam- engine. The steam-engine was an infant at this time ; it was, therefore, expecting too much of it to supj^ose it could withstand such terrible foes as those found at the extreme nortli. On the 23d of May, 1829, the "Victory" steamed down the Thames ; but her engine broke down, and she paused at the Isle of Alan for re- pairs. She was again delayed by an accident to her engineer. A supply-vessel, the " John," ;i .d been employed to go with them to the mouth, or thereabouts, of Prince Regent Inlet, and having deposited for them her cargo of stores, to scud home before the ice fetters were thrown around it. But these delays caused her crew to sec an arctic winter as one of the contingencies quite too likely to happen, and they flatly refused to go. So Ross sailed with only the " Victory " and a small cargo of supplies, less than he expected. Science of our day, with its ocean-steamers of wonderful capacity, mav, perhaps, laugh at the " Victory's " steam-engine. When fairly at sea it kept the captain and other officers up to aid the engineer to keep its rickety joints together. The sailors had to turn out at night to blow the bellows to keep up steam, and to gather ice for the boiler. We hope Jack didn't siwear profanely at this new r Lost and Found. 145 mode of sailing ! We know he did a better thing; at the welcome orders from the (luarter-deck he pitched the troublesome thing into the sea! Having reached South Greenland, the " Victory " ran into a Danish port for the purchase of a further outfit for arctic winters. They were soon on friendly terms with the governor, the religious teacher, and the Christianized Estpiimo. There was lying in the harbor the hull of a London vessel recently wrecked. Ross purchased her stores, and was thus fully ])rovisioned ; this addi- tional sujjply probably saved the explorers from ultimate starvation. They found Lancaster Sound and Barrow Strait nearly free from ice, and reached thu beach in Prince Rege; t Lilet, on which the wreck of the "Fury" was left by Parry; 1nit nothing of it could be found. The tent-poles remained, and near them the casks, tightly sealed, of sugar, meat, flour, cocoa, and other provisions, left by Parry nearly four years before. All were in good order, although the bears had left evidence that they had tried upon the casks the strength of their teeth and paws. Here was another timely addition to their supplies; there were twenty-three men to be fed, and had they then known the length of time they were to depend upon these provisions, they would have been even more thankful that bruin's teeth and claws had not opened the casks. They found the navigation favorable, so they did not stop long at Fury Beach, but cruised south on the western side of the inlet, passing through if ' ^M' t k I vf 146 Arctic Heroes. I I ■t V'o hf II r 'I \i ' I, \i^ a strait into a large gulf which Ross named after his patron, Boothia. Sailing on they reached its southern extremity, nearly opposite the Fury and llecla .Strait, where Parry had sjjent a winter during his second exi)edition. Here they found a good harbor, and seeing signs of the rajjid approach of the winter prohibition of all activity of either ship ox men, they ])repared to sj)end the season's im- prisonment in it. They first cut for their vessel a canal, so as to bring her near the shore, involving a long and tedious work. 'I'he j)0wder and many of the stores were then removed to a sheltered place on the land. To make their home in tiie ship warm and dry they resorted to several very ingen- ious Yankee-like contrivances. Covering their deck, first with snow two and a half feet thick, and stamping it down until it became as solid as ice, they then spread over it a dry sand from the shore, making something like a gravel -walk. They then banked up with snow the ship's sides, and roofed the deck over with canvas. The vapor of the cabins, instead of being allowed to condense, and thus keep every thing damp and cold, except at the exj)ense of a great amount of fuel and a high temperature, was conducted through the upper deck into the open air by tubes. Over the mouth of these tubes iron-tanks were placed, the open side down. The tanks being in an atmosphere averaging many degrees below zero, the vapor as it reached them froze solid. This they cut out and carried below, thus not only keep- ing their apartments dry, but securing a supply of Lost and Found. 147 frcsh-watcr ice. The air necessary to make the fires burn was brought in copper tubes directly to the fire-phice, and so warmed before it was dis- tributed through the cabin. Two anterooms were made, the outer one for the men's wet < lothes. Their supi)ly of provisions, on examination, was ascertained to be sufficient for two years, used liberally, and could be made to last three years. The health and spirits of the men were, therefore, kept up by three meals a day, and i)lenty to do. ^^'ith these hap])y sufficiencies there was one fortunate lack; only a small quantity of licpior re- mained. Ross, like a sensible man, though in this respect ahead of his age, declared on the spot that he believed that without it his men would endure the cold better, and be less likely to be attacked by their terrible enemy, the scurvy. Under the counsel of so good an adviser, the men cheer- fully and at once agreed to dispense entirely with their "grog," and reserve it for strictly medicinal purposes. Divine service was daily performed, the Sabbath regarded by the omission of unnecessary work, divine service for all, and a special service in the evening — a kind of Sunday-school — for the sailors. Every week-day evening the secular schools were in operation. Thus far Ross' expedition was a success. He had surveyed three hundred miles of hitherto un- discovered coast, and reached a point within two hundred and eighty miles of Franklin's furthest eastern journey from the mouth of the Coppermine. 1 rn| i I|| f * ( 1 « 1 nr^ p ' 1 % ' y:- ■ i ' o «> '' i V 4 ■ i ■'» ' '-? • , ) . . 'k '^ ! 1 1 T i '■ ;1 !'■• 148 Akctic Heroes, As they had sailed along the coast they had ob- served traces of Esquimo, but seen none. Whales had fearlessly played about the ship, not yet taught to be shy by the deadly harpoon. Havinaf become fairlv settled, the men turned their attention to hunting. Be:irs and Vv'olves were not plenty, but caused o^^^.asionally a healthy excitement. Foxes were more abundant, and were sometimes trapi)ed, though the arctic fox has the cuteness of his relative ol warmer climates in keeping out of harm's way. The seal-traps were more successful ; the seal oil and skins proved very useful, and so would their flesh, if the ex- plorers had experienced tho extreme hunger of many later visitors to those regions. Sea-fowl were quite plenty ; one species of gull, the kittiwake, attracted special attention by iis rare beauty. Its bill was lemon- jolor, its plumage a blending of ash, black, and white, and its legs li d. Commander James Ross, a nephew of the cap- tain, vs'ho had accompanied his uncle, proved an exp'^'it hunter, and, in fact, every way an efficient officer. In January a rep )rt of the "Victory's" cannon brought to the explorers a welcome company of Esquimo. They were shy at first, but on the ap- proach of qjt; >ey military order, brandishing their spears and knives. The captaii shouted some friendly words in their own language, which he had learned elsewhere, and they immediately sent back the kind saluta- Lost and Found. 149 tion. Ross ihrew away liis gun and repeated " Aja tima!" I'be Esquimo shouted "Aja tinia," tossed aside their spears and knives, and were soon on excellent terms with the white taces. There were women and children among the visitors, ''i'he mothers generally carried their babies in a big fur hood which hung from the back of their neck ; but sometimes they adopted a mode of carrying these household treasures which is not usual, we think, even with the Esqui- mo — they tucked them away in their boots ! One of their young men was drawn on a sledge, he having but one leg; the other had been am- putated in the following savage way : 'I'he uj)per j)art of the leg was first bound tightly with strips of hide; the flesh of the lower part was then cut off with the r dull, cKimsy knives, and the bone was slipped into a hole in the ice and snapi)ed off! We hope the doctor did not charge heavily for this kind of surgery I The surgeon of the " Victory " kindly made the young man a wooden leg, on which he strutted al)Out, with the most ex- travagant expressions of delight. When April 1830 came, the discoverers were astir; some made a special business of hunting, game being now more abundant, and the necessity for fresh provisions more urgent ; others were off on exploring excursions, in two ])arties — 01 j led by Captain Ross, and the other by Commander James Ross. The commander was the man of greater enter])rise, and general knowledge ; he was wide awake in securing scientific as well as 10 *.. r ih I' •.» 150 Arctic Heroes. geographical knrnvleoge. His excursions were es- pecially directed to finding a j)assage out of the gulf where they were, in a westerly direction. But the most intelligent natives assured them that the only way into the sea beyond was farther north, meaning through Barrow Strait, already discovert^d by Parry. All of the excursions of the younger Ross were made with dog-sledges, and Ksquir.io as guides. After having been out with them several times, he and the surgeon visited their camp to get guides lor further exploration. Instead of the usual friend- ly greeting, the men met them, armed with knive'^ and spears, and with angry faces. One old mm was especially excited, and rushed at the visitors with his spear, but was restrained by his son. The women and children huddled together, aside, evi- dently expecting a scene, and the men formed a line abreast, grasping their spears and knives. Ross could get no exjjlanation of this show of a bloody light, and affa-is with the strangers were becoming critical. They had each a loaded gun, but they were reluctant to shoot down men who had been, up to this time, fast and valuable friends, and were even now evidently acting under some serious misunderstanding. But to prevent being stabbed and overpowered, the officers brought tlicir gun^ to their shoulders and tlieir fingers to the locks. One look at tlie muzzle of the guns WIS happily quite enough for tlie timid foe. Tiicv, j-robably, had seen the lightning blazing Lw.;! I'.e:;', 'uard tlieir thunder, and seen them Lost and Found. 151 deal death to the wild beasts. They broke and ran like sheep. The women then approached with friendly signs, and Ross succeeded in get- ting this explanation of the threatening incident : The old man, whose resentment was so intense, had just lost a son by the falling of a stone on his head. Their medicine man had attrib- uted the fatal accident to the witchcraft of the white faces; therefore their braves were bent on revenge. Ross succeeded in restoring confidence, the frightened men came l)ack, guides were readily obtained, and the explorers went on their way. The excursion, however, proved •-. '^ad one. Their provisions failed, and they were obliged to kill and eat seven of their nine dogs. This resort is much like taking the wheels from a carriage for fuel when on a long journey. The men were longer in getting back, having to draw the sledges instead of riding, and when at last they rcncht-d the ship they were but skeleton men. Thus the sumnier wore away, and the " Vic- tory " was still bound with ice fetters. August came, promised them freedom and an open sea, broke its promise and departed. September stepped forward with i/iiitini^ sunbeams, loosened the bands of the im])risoned shij), and she sailed joyously from Felix Harbor, where she had spent eleven months ; but the breezes had only well filled the sails, and her |)row felt its renewed power to cut through the waves, when she struck a rock ! In breathless suspense all awaited the i> H ;ii 1 i t • i. V 'U ffil ■ :m 1 ul ■i: iPt i iPT 152 Arctic Heroes. result, when she swung off and started again, but only to ground in the sand, where she seemed in- clined to stay. Quickly as possible she was light- ened l)v removing the stores to the shore. With deep anx''^ty they watched the effect of the re- turning tide ; and when it was shouted, " She floats I she floats ! " every heart bounded for joy. With all sails spread, they sailed away — four miles, and, night coming on. Captain Ross fastened his sliip to an iceberg, as if he had not been ice- bound enough, and w: ted for the morning. The morning came, but not the sailing ; they were once more held firmly in the grip of the Ice King. Many laljorious days were s[)ent in sawing the thick, firm ice, and warping the ship through the canal thus made; when reaching a comparatively sheltered place near their old quarters, they spent anothe. .vinter. Tlie only noticeable incident of this winter was the discovery by the scientific, younger Ross, of the long-sC'Ught " Western Magnetic Pole " — a spot where the needle of the compass dipped and stood still. The discoverer was in ecstasies, and thus records his feelings : " 1 leave my readers to imagine my transj)orts ; all my perils and fatigues were forgotten, and I felt as if 1 had nothing to do but to go home and be haj)})y for the rest of my days." 'i'he explorers built as good a monument to mark the spot as the circumstances allowed, put- ting a sealed canister beneath it containing docu- ments relating to the discovery. Their fci/ini^s Lost and Found. 153 prompted tliem to build a monument over it as high as an Egyi)tian jn'ramid. Hut, after all, later science has shown that this discovery was of no practical value. The second winter passed and the third sum- mer came, bringing great labor, much suffering from cold, and insufficient food, and constant " ho])e deferred." \\'hen in August they were under sail again, they made, as during the preced- ing year, a few miles only, and then were again frozen tight for a third winter. Three weeks of navigation in a year, and a progress of four miles, they wisely concluded would not pay, so they de- cided to take to the boats and sledges and make their escape the quickest and easiest way possible as soon as the third winter should be ended. Therefore when April, 1832, arrived, they began to move out of the " Victory " toward Fury lieach, a distance of one hundred and eighty miles in a direct line, and three hundred by the windings. The goods they needed to carry being many and heavy, and their strength small, they took light loads, carried them a short distance and then set them down to return for more, thus going over the s.?me ground two or three times a day. The first month they made thirty miles in a direct line, but had traveled, incluaing the repeated journeys and the windings to avoid hummocks, three hundred and twenty-nine miles. During this m(jnth ter- rific storms of wind had hurled the sleet into their faces and piled the snow in their path. They now made their last journey to the ship, in 1: (i: \ MM i .1 ), , i l\\ t W i, li \% II , I ■' I ; T H w T '54 Arctic Heroes. nailed her colors to the mast, and bade her farewell. When they reached a point near enough to Fury Beach, where, it will be recollected. Parry's sliij) " l'"ury " had been wrecked, and where there was now a dei)Osit of boats and provisions, the main party halted, built a temporary shelter, and rested. Commander Ross soon pressed on, with a few picked men, to Fury Beach, to examine the con- dition of things and to return. The captain moved forward with the main body more slowly ; young Ross meeting them on his return with the good re])ort that the store of provisions were in good order, and, though some of the boats had been washed away, enough remained for their pur- pose, (^n the first of July the whole party reached Fury Beach. Having now access to a larger stock of })rovisions, they ate hearty meals, rested, and re- cruited. They called their canvas-mansion Somer- set House. Having spent a month at this jjlacc, getting ready to man the beats for further progress to Baffin Bay through Barrow Strait, they bid adieu, as thev hoDed, to the Somerset House. But they i\] into Jkarrow Strait when only got ■y driven back to the Somerset House to spend yet another winter. This fourth winter, amid arctic darkness, cold, and short i)rovisions, was the most fearful of all ; but yet only one man died. All felt, when the next traveling season arrived^ that they must reach the waters of the whalers and be rescued by them, or perish. With this feeling i/ . Lost and Found. 155 th'^v had. l)y incredible lal)or and endurance, got out of Regent Inlet once more, j)assed Cajje \'ork, wound along the water lanes in the ice until they had reached Navy Board Inlet, which we may find on the map, about half way between Cape York and Baffin Bay. They drew their boats to land, pitched a tent, ate their supper, went through with the Divine service, in which, we doubt not, they introduced the prayer: "Lord, preserve our lives, and bring us again to our homes and friends." At four in the morning the watch startled all by the thrilling shout, " A sail ! a sail ! " The boaiswere manned, and with all of their little strength, now stimulated to almost desperate exer- tions, they rowed out to sea, making every possible signal to attract attention. But the ship kept on her course, not seeing them, and was soon out of sight. A sullen despair, which ])recedes the fatal crisis, was settling down upon the crew, when Captain Ross shouted, what he scarcely dared be- lieve, " Another sail I " After a little pause, and almost breathless suspense, he added: "Yes, she bears down upon us ; we are seen ! " and " we are saved! " was soon added a^ the sail drew nearer. The wind subsiding, the ship lowered her boat, commanded by her mate. As he approached Ross he said inquiringly : — " \'ou have lost your ship, sir ? " " Yes, we beg you v-ould take us in. What is the name of yoi^r vessel .' " " The ' Isabella,' once commanded by Captain Ross." 'Mf \ % T 1^ I 156 Arc'I'ic IIkroks. M Hi ji- 1' Hf. '* I am that Ca])tain Ross, and these men are. the crew of tlie ' \'iclory.' " " Ini])Ossil)le ! " was the (jiiick reply. " Captairi Ross has hccn dead these two years! " ISiit Ross was satisfied that lie had the best in- formation on this point, aiid it was not difficult to satisfy tlie nuitc and his captain of the fact. When tlie facts were known on hoard the " Isabella " she received her old commander with a tumult of joy. \\'hen all were on board there followed a scene, says Captain Ross, so ludicrous that it drove for the moment all serious thoui^hts away. All were in a frame of mind to Ije amused : " Every man was hungry and was to be fed ; all were ra'j:u;ed and were to be clothed; there was not one to whom w;ishing was not indispens- able, nor one whose beard did not deprive him of all human semblance. All was to be done at once : it was shaving, washing, dressing, eating, all inter- mingled ; it was all the materials of each jumbled together, while in the midst of all there were in- terminable (juestions to be asked and answered on both sides — the adventures of the 'Victory,' our own escapes, the politics of England, and the news, now to us four years old." But night came, and all was comparatively quiet. The sick had been cared for, the hungry fed, the ragged clothed, the unwashed cleansed, and, of course, all — and they were many — of the despond- ing among the explorers comforted. The rescued tried to sleep, but the beds were too warm and comfortable, Ross says of himself that he had to o fD O C a le ill Lo ic th re .IS ts 11 re HI ir le )f i- to XI 73 Lost and Found. '59 leave his berth for a liardcr place before he could sleep. The explorers arrived in London on the iQlh of October, 1833, havini:; l)een absent four years. Honors and emoluments were ])lentif'ally bestowed upon them. The officers were promoted, Cai)tain Ross receiving a " knij^iithood," and his ne])hew a captaincy ; the sailors received double pay, and the Parliament, the next year, returned to Ross his fifteen thousand dollars, with an addition of ten thousand — the goodly sum of twenty-five thousand. His patron, Felix Boot.\ they made Sir Felix. The shout of the nation seemed to be, The lost is found ! and they killed the fatted calf. 'I f * I I :'ff!s t nI ■:i{ '4% n \ \ \ '!• • 1 60 Arctic Heroics. CHAPTER XVI. DOWN THE GREAT FISH RIVER. ^"r^IHi^ long absence of Caj)!. Ross excited great X alarm in England, 'rhoiigh his expedition was one of private enterprise, and he had not been a favorite of the masses as an explorer, yet now that he was believed to be a suffering prisoner in the arctic ice, or already, with his men, a victim of cold and starvation, great and universal sympathy was felt. Men in high places of authority and in- fluence began to talk, in 1832, of sending an expe- dition in search of him. The government finally determined to do it. When liack, who was in Italy at the time, heard of this decision, he hastened home and was accepted as its commander. He will be recollected by the reader as a hero in the two land exi)editions of Franklin. He was now expected to go over a ]jart of the routes of those journeys, reach the Polar Sea through the Great Slave Lake and the Great Fish River, then work his way east toward Prince Regent Inlet, over unknown land and waters, in hoi)e to meet Ross or learn his fate. Such a journey was easily marked out on ])aper, and was very nice to talk about in the comfortable parlors of the great men. It was just the enterprise, too, to inspire the en- thusiasm of the daring, skillful, and persistent Back. Dozen the Gnat Fish Rircr. i6i He left F^n^land February, 18^5,^, with Dr. Kin.u;, who went as surj^'eon and naturalist, 'i'hey were honored and cheered forward as they passed through New York city, and sailed, u]) tlie Hudson to Albany. At Montreal they added to their com- pany Canadians, four volunteers from the artillery service, and an old Indian boat-manager and guide by the name of Paul. In two canoes, Paul guiding the leading one, they shot down the St. Lawrence to the Ottawa, and then ascended that river in a north-westerly dnection. 'J'here were many water-falls and rapids for them to pass, some enchantingly beautiful, others imj)ressively grand, but all imposing exhausting labor upon the explorers. The canoes and their freight had to be carried overland round these de- scending waters, the goods often in little parcels, ar'l so in fretpient return trips, and the canoes lifted up ^, recipitous rocks and through tangled forests. These water-falls are about as troublesome to the voyagers in descending the rivers as in ascend- ing, and much more dangerous. Back tells the following story of the experience of some Indian acquaintance which illustrates this danger : A party were approaching a landing-place from which they were to carry the canoe round a grand cataract. In order to reach the landing they were obliged to go round a point of land which extended into the rapids, a short distance only from the edge of the falls. A strong oarsman stood in tlie bow ; another, erect also and watchful, stood in the stern. They reached the point, fearlessly struck out into the \ • •n ; ^T^ ^^mmmm mf^mm. 'm ' % 162 Arctic Heroes. 1,1' !'■ > rushing current, and witli a few vigorous strokes, which threw the si)ray high over tlieir heads, came round under the lee of tlie land. The sheltered landing was nearly reached, tlie danger seemed ])ast, and tiie oarsmen relaxed tlieir vigilance. Suddenly an eddy swung the prow of the canoe round and it darted out into the current. Swift as an arrow, it shot toward the cataract until it seemed to hang over its very edge. But the Indians, ex- perienced in this kind of peril, were masters of the situation. They struck their paddles deep into the water, and with the desperate strength of men working for life they brought the canoe to a stand, ami inch by inch moved off until the quiet waters of the landing were reached. They then landed on shore, drew up their canoe, threw themselves on the grass to rest, grunted their satisfaction, and cherished the recollection of the incident to relate around their camp-fires. But the perils of the risers were not the only ones our explorers encountered. Their comfort was often destroyed and their lives put in jeopardy by myriads of sand-flies. They covered every exposed part of their persons with blood- thirsty rai)acity. To brush them off was only to remove those which were already gorged, or in part filled, for those with keener a])petites. For every one killed, thousands came to avenge his doath. It was a conflirt waged by the explorcis in which they were su**'.^ to be beaten. The Indians threw thems^elves on tlie ground, and fairly roared with anguish. Back adds : — • 4' Jil ^r Doivn the Great Fish River. 163 "As we marched into the confined and suffocat- ing chasms, or \\aded through the cUdsc swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air. To see or to si)eak was equally difticult, for they rushed at every undefended i)art, and fixed their poisonous fangs in an instant. Our faces streamed with blood, as if leeches had been applied, and there was a burning and irritating pain, followed by immediate inflammation, j)ro(lucing giddiness, which almost drove us m.iil, and caused us to moan with lain and agony." Some o^ the Indians seemed to regard these tormento's wirh superstitious reverence. When Back at one time endeavored to smoke them out, an old Indian shook his liead. " Had," he mut- tered, "very bad! 'I'he great white chief" — re- ferring to Fra.iklin — "did not do so. He never killed a fly." "This," says Back, " was true of Franklin. He (juietly 1)1l\v the gorged insects from his hands, saying, ' The world 'S wide enough for 1)oth of The first most important stopping-place was Fort Chipeway, on the Athabasca Lake, where the reader has been several times with {''rank 1 in and others. This is distant from M(»ntrcal at least two thousand miles, the way they had trav- eled. It was now the middle of July, and they desired to push on, if j^ossible, as far as the (Ireat F'ish River, flowing, as they believed, out (;f the Great Slave Lake into the sea. Their nunibt-r liad been increased, just before arriving at l'\trl ii!' vn .:., I «'l;' •*. \\ p^ 99! Ul 164 Arctic Heroes. 1^ ; 4 I'- ll; «4 Chipeway, by a Mr. M'Leod, an old employi* of tlie Hudson I5ay Company, who brought along his wife and three children. A fine romantic journey for women and boys and girls did this i.xploring expedition afford! It was after their manner o^ life, so we do not hear that they either loitered behind or fainted bv the wav. Before starting from this point let us look at the company Back had gathered about him, and at their "fixings." He says: "At my feet was a rolled bundle in oil cloth containing three blank- ets, called a bed; near it a piece of dried buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long black hairs, which, alas I no art can prevent from insinuating them- selves between the teeth as you laboriously masti- cate the tough, hard flesh ; then a tolerably clean napkin, spread, by way of a table-cloth, on a red piece of canvas, aiid sui)porting a tea-pot, some biscuits, and a salt-cellar; near this a tin plate; close by a square kind of a box or safe of the same material, rich witli a pale, greasy hair, the produce of the colony at Red River; and the last, the far renowned /<^v///y//Vr^//, the best food of the country for expeditions such as ours. Behind me were two boxes containing astronomical instru- ments, and a sextant lying on the ground by a washing apparatus, a gun, an Indian shot-pouch, bags, basins, and an unhajjpy-looking ja])anned pot, whose sad bumps seemed to reproach mc for many a bruise endured upon the rocks and portages. " My crew were not less motley than the tent. 'I! Doivn the Great Fish River. 165 It consisted of Englishmen, Canadians, two mctifs or half-breeds, and three Iroquois Indians. Isabel could not produce a worse confusion of inhar- monious sounds." Having arrived at Fort Resolution, just south of the Great Slave Lake, Back took four of his crew to press on to the Great Fish River, while M'Leod came on with the rest, to some point on the north-east side of the lake, where he was to prepare winter-quarters. Back was successful in finding the outlet of the river from the lake, and sailed a few days on its waters. This (rreat Fish River now bears Back's own name. He was delighted with his success thus far. He seemed to see a tiiumphant vovage on its waters to the sea when., in the spring, he should renew his explorations. With these feel- ings he turned back to Fort Reliance, as he i ailed the spot where M'Leod had prepared winter-tpiar- ters. Here he found not only his own company, but a starving troop of Indians who had come to hang about the camj) and live ujjon ils charity. He generously bade them welcome, though he feared a short supply of food ere he reached the sea. One day Back was taking some observations with his astronomical instruments. Several of the Indians looked on with pu/zled and anxious ex- pressions of face, while they exchanged signifi- cant glances at each other, or muttered aside in low tones. They were evidently discussing the question of the probable use of the instruments. If .1 ! ( \ \ .1 A (■ » hi H' 1 66 Arctic Heroes. ,' \ At last ihey arrived at a conclusion quite satis- factory to themselves, but dangerous to the white stranger. The instruments were, they said, to raise the devil with, and they were, no doubt, the cause of the famine. Re\ :nge, for such a calamity, was next in order in an Indian's mind. So Back's generous gifts of food came, in good time, to conciliate the fighting men. The cloud which this condition of thirgs gath- ered was silver-lined by tlie coming of Back's old friend, the chief Akaitcho. He led off in successful hunts. He scorned the suspicions which the instruments had inspired in his follow- ers, and, in addressing lUck, said : '* The great chief trusts us, and it is better that ten Indians perish than that one white man perish through our negligence and breach of faith." As the winter progressed, the cold, the stinted supi)ly of food, and the desolation which every- where prevailed, excited in the exjjlorers a feeling •of despondency. Even Back confesses that in spite of himself he at times felt his customary resolution falter. Such was the state of heart at the camp April 23, made specially burdensome by a rumor that a favorite interpreter and guide of Back's forme- voyages had perished of hunger and cold in an attempt to visit him. While all were under these depressions a knock was heard at their cabin- door. Without waiting for the knock to be an- swered the stranger walked in and thrust a dis- patch into the captain's hands, saying : — Down the Great Fish River. 167 K (( He returned, sir! " What I Augustus ?" exclaimed Back, "Thank God ! " *' Not Augustus, Captain Ross, sir; Captain Ross has returned ! " The news seemed too good to be true. But the dispatches told the story ; they contained extracts from English i)apers affirming the joyous fact. Captain Back says; ''In the fullness of our hearts we assembled together and humbly offered up our thanks to God fur so wonderful a preserva- tion. The day was spent as a festival, and the gloom which had rested upon the camp was dissipated. Among the Indians who enlivened the camp by their presence was "Green Stockings," the "beauty" of her tribe, whom the reader may rec- ollect as appearing in Franklin's narrative. She was now accompanied by a group of children, one, a babe, hiding away in her hood. When she was accosted by the pet name of her younger days she smiled, shook her head, and remarked, I am an old woman no w." But she was evi- dently pleased to have Back sketch her portrait. In June the explorers started for Great Fish River. Though the search for Ross was happily ended, the captain desired to add something to the world's knowledge of the shores of the Polar Sea. A boat thirty feet long had been built. This they put on runners, fur it was a long jour- ney to the Fish River, through swamps and over lakes ye' fro/en. They reached it safely on the 11 \ i!. % : "r T '■ >. am I - 11 'I 1 68 Arctic Hkroes. w A-. I 'f m 28th of June. Here their valuable friends, IM'Leodand Akaitcho, bitl them farewell. The chief si)oke desijondingly of their enterprise. He said : " Indian don't know this river, and can't help you if you get into trouble. Ksciuimo live by the shore and will say, ' l*eace, peace,' and strike you in the dark, I am afraid Akaitcho will never see the great chief again ! " Thus warned Back started, a company of ten persons in all composing the expedition, and floated down the rive.;. It proved to be a river extremely winding, full of rapids, whose rushing waters were thrown into sheets of foam by the numerous bowlders, and cataracts whose roar was at times heard several miles away. Its banks through its entire length, five hundred miles, were without a tree. Every-where nature seemed to have written the warning words, Alan is not invited into these regions ! T-ul the explorers sailed on without the invitation, a^id in spite of the warning. The half-breeds of the company were able canoe-men. They were born and trained in the midst (;f such wild scenes. Back says of one n( them :— " He ran our rickety and shattered canoe down four successive rapids, which, but for his skill, would have whirled it and every body in it to certain destruction. Nothing could exceed the self-possession and good judgment with which he guided the frail thing along the narrow line be- tween the high waves of the torrent and the re- turning eddy. A foot in either direction would Down the Great Fish River. 169 have been fatal ; l)ut with the most perfect ease, and, 1 uuiy add, elegance and grace of action, his keen eye fixed iii)on the /v/;/, he kept her true to her course through all its ra])i(] windings." At another time they passed five rapids in a dis- tance of three miles. They had scarcely taken breath on smoother sailing, before they were con- fronted by the most ai)palling one they had yet met with. The water, hemmed in by walls of ice, rushed ihrouuh a narrow bed full of rock? 'X\m Capt lin and Mr. King stepped ashore and moun ted the high bank, while the half-breeds undertook the perilous voyage. Mr. King was farther down the stream than Back, and both were watching, with intense anxiety, the experiment. The lives of those ashore, as well as those in the canoe, were staked on its success. It shot safely, passed the captain, and was hid from his sight below Dr. King. The captain just then heard what sounded to his excited mind as a wild shriek ! He saw King throw up his gun at the same time and rush forward. With an agitation more intense than he often felt, he followed the doctor. Having reached a point from which he could look beyond the rai)id, he was relieved and gladdened by the sight of the bout in a quiet bay, and the crew safely landed. It was their wild whoop of triumph that he had heard. On the 29th of July they came in sight of the highlands at the mouth of the river, and were soon on the shores of the chilling, frowning Arctic '■\: 'f: jlji I I i. il Sea. Less than two weeks' experience taught ■tl! ;i i: ill '' 1 1 1 'I "j' i 170 Arctic Heroes. them the impossibility of unvaiiing the secrets of its shores. On the sen, successive masses of broken ice barred their progress. ( )n land, they sunk knee deep in a slush of i( e and snow. I'or ten days they had not a sjjark of fire, and, of course, neither warm food nor dry garments. Back, being a sensible as well as a brave man, wisely turned his face homeward. He had found the river, during his five hundred miles' voyage, expanding into five large lakes, rushing through rapids and pouring down cataracts, eighty-three in all. In the return trip these eighty-three de- scents in the river were to be {)assed by " port- ages," that is, by carrying on land the boat and its freight, often lifting both up craggy precipices. The voyage would have terrified many explorers into imbecility and failure. Lack and his men accomplished it safely. In September they went into winter-quarters at the old home at Fort Reliance, on Slave Lake. Here he found M'Leod and the faithful Akaitcho, who had made some most welcome preparations for their coming. Here, again, the hunt was be- gun, the schools put in operation, the Sabbath service observed, and the winter made as swift- footed as was possible to the slow-moving arctic months. It was the old experience of long, dark nights, cold, and dreariness. Back arrived in England in September, 1835, having been absent a little more than two years and seven months. He had not seen the North Pole, but his men !' Down the Great Fish River. 171 had picked up on the shore of tlu- Polar Sea a piece of drift-wood nine feet long, which they de- clared was a part of it. This may have satisfied the ambition of the '' rank and fde " in respect to arctic discovery, considering how much of ])eril and suffering it cost, but it did not satisfy their leader. The ne.xt year, 1836, he was off again in the shi]) " Terror." This time he was to take Parry's route thrcnigh Hudson Strait to Fury and Hecla Strait, examine the lower part of Prince Regent Inlet, enter Re])ulse Bay, and by sledges or shii)s, or by both boats and sledges, hnd his way to the coast of the Polar Sea, whi( li he left about eighteen months before. Said those who sent him : "You can easily do this in one season, and so escape the arctic winter." A nice little plan ! The scientific gentlemen at home would have done well, may be, at trying their hand at its execution. The first thing King Ice did, even before the " Terror " reached Fury and Hecla Strait, was to frown upon it from a l)erg three hundred feet high ; he then gave it a terrific shaking up in '* a nip " between huge masses of ice. He next caught the shi}) in an icy cradle, gathered around her an immense floe, and rocked her al)out four months at will. No quiet rest for the winter in a chosen harbor was allowed. He toyed with her through the long season, from September to the summer of the next year, with malicious humor ; now opening the floe and letting her down into the clear sea, then boxing her on one side with a crystal I' M ..' 1 n t i ' ;t' w .:i 172 Arctic Hicroes. block, "like the side of a house," and giving her a buffet on the other by " a huge wave of hum- mocks." To vary the sjjort two floes were oc- casi(jnally brought together, giving her agonizing " nii)s."* I'inally, the " Terror," thoroughly ter- rified, was dismissed, the latter part of the summer of I-S37, from his Ice Majesty's dominions, crippled and crestfallen. The profits of the expedition were a zero. But liack had done all that skill and courage could do, and he was rewarded by being made Sir George Back. He then rested from arctic labors. * See Frontispiece. ^m^ I' Franklin ]\Iissi}ig — Search Cotnincncaf. 173 I 1 II CHAPTER XVII. FRANKI.IN MISSIN'd: TllF. SF.AKCII C0MMENCF:D. W\\ arc about to commence a sad era in the history of arctic explorations, or rather an era havini; its commencement and stimulus in a melancholy event, yet in its exhibition of heroism, and in the outlay of treasures and men to secure the results scnight, surpassing all other eras. V/c shall endeavor to give its most striking features. In 1S44 Sir James C. Ross returned from the re- gions of the South I'ole, having made a successful exploration in the ships " Erebus " and *' Terror." The fever for more excursions to the North Pole broke out anew in England. These well-tried ships were docked, rejuvenated, ecpiipped with all the skill which wealth could command and ex- perience suggest, and put in command of the veteran officer. Sir John Franklin. He hoisted his flag on the ' Erebus," and gave the command of the " Terror " to Captain Richard Crozier, a com- panion of Ross in the recent Antartic voyage. All the persons composing the exploration were one hundred and thirty-eight, every one tried, picked men. The transi)ort " Daretto," under the command of Lieutenant Criffith, was laden with provisions, to be transferred to the ships in Davis Strait. V \ f ] 1: ■11 H V ill. * I ht ) 1 ■', t 1 * ! s ' 174 Arctic Heroes. The instructions given to Sir John were some- what in detail, yet left large discretion to his judgment, as determined by circumstance. The substance of the suggestions of the home authori- ties were these : He was to i)roceed with energy antl directness through Lancaster Sound, to or as near Melville Island as ])ossible the first season. Then came the old command, to push on to Bering Strait — if he could. It was only nine hun- dred miles ! True, the greater jiart of that dis- tance had been navigated, and the track maj^ped out by different men, inchubng Franklin himself, starting at different times and from various points, such as Bering Strait itself, the mouth of the Mackenzie, and of the Cojjpermine River. But for one expedition to make a continuous push through tlie whole distance was quite another thing. But it was assumed that he would get through somehow, if not by a direct westerly or south-westerly course, by one north-westerly, up Wellington Channel. Having reached Bering Strait, the rest of his instructions could be easily followed. He was to sail to the Sandwich Islands and Panama, and send a special messenger with the good news. All this planning was grandly comprehensive. It pleased Him by whom alone human devices come to pass to throw over the results, for many long, weary, and anxious years, a dark cloud. What appeared when it lifted we shall see. The expedition sailed on the 19th of May, 1845. The " Daretto " gave the ships her suppliess Franklin Missing — Search Commenced, i/; after reaching Davis Strait, according to the pro- gramme, and returned. The ** Krebus " had five bullocks on board for fresh i)rovisions in an eifier- ijency, and the whole stock of food was ample for three years. The explorers were seen on the 26th of July by the whaler " Prince of N\'ales," nearly in the middle of IJaffin Hay, two hundred and ten miles from the entrance to Lancaster Sound, anchored to an iceberg, waiting the moving of the ice. Here the curtain drops. Suspense concerning the fate of Franklin had grown i)ainfully intense in the fall of 1847. Two years had passed without a word of information. The English Government planned immediately three searching expeditions, and they were sent into active scrvit '■ with all the dispatch consistent with thorough preparation. The first was to sail up the I'acific to Bering Strait and operate east- ernly. The second, under the eminent explorer Sir John Richardson, whom the reader has met before, was to go down the Mackenzie, and search along shore to the Coppermine. The third, un- der the popular J. C. Ross, was to penetrate Lan- caster Sound, and find and follow Franklin's route. This last was on a grand scale, consisting of two fine ships, the " Enterprise " and " Investigator," each attended by small steam tow-boat " launches," All these were in oj^eration in the early j)art of T848. In the early fall (jf tliat year rumors through the whalers reached the home authorities concerning the plans of Ross which alarmed them. They regarded them as desperately brave. They M ^ ■ I i h I V It 1 1' •■ 176 Arctic Heroes. at once sent the " North Star," supply ship, under the command of Jaines Saunders, hiden with pro- visions for Ross, and bearing specific orders. The " S.ar " was not to allow herself to be caught in the ice, but to return that season ai all events, leaving at some well-known point lier sui)i)lies if she (lid not find Ross. She did not overtake Ross, but did get caught and wintered in the ice. All these explorations closed unsuccessfully to ward the end of 1849. 'Die public mind was now continually stimu- lated in its interest concerning the lost ones. The veteran exjjlorers — and they were many — as well as the veteran managers of ex[)lorations, came for- ward with their speculations and advice. Large '•ewards were promised, both by the Government and Lady Franklin, to excite t^he zeal of the whalers in making careful in(]uiry of the Esciuimo, and in making diligent search along the shores, while }"ursuing their calling. The Government, thus si)urred on by its own desires and by public o])inion, started three more expeditions in 1850. The first, ia the tried ves- sels the " Enter])rise " and " Navigator," sup- ])orted by small crafts, were this time to start on the immediate search at liering Strait, inasmuch as they did not gei through from the other end. 'I'he second, under Dr. Rae. an old officer, was to try the Mackenzie and shore route. The third, a naval expedition, was to make another effort bv way of T,ancaster Sound, through which I'ranklin was supposed to have passed. Before we notice ^ I I Frank I ill Missing — Sec re h Commenced. 177 this squadron in detail, let us glance at certain non-offuial enterprises. There was an exp.edition under the command of Captain Penny, an energetic, experienced com- mander of a whale ship. It consisted of a staunch ship, the " Lady Franklin," and a clijiper-brig, the "S()i)hia." This e\])edition was prompteil and mostly j.aid lor by the devoted wife of Franklin. In addition to l*enny's vessels, Fatly l'"ranklin, out of her own purse, and with an exha'-stive generosity, fitted out the '' Prince Albert," a schooner-rigged era t of only ninety tons, but of faultless build. Another expedition, under the veteran Sir John Ross, was e emerald. Through the drifl.s the snowy cliffs Did send a dismal slieen ; Nor shapes of men or beasts we ken- The ice was all l)etween. It With sloping masts and ilripping prow. As who pursued with yell and blow, Still treads the shadow of hix foe. And forward bends hi-, head, The ship drove fast, loud roared the blast, And //.'/-/// riwn/ aye we lied." l'i! ti Having hauled in for the land, we touched at the Danish settlement of Upernavik, We were soon off again and fell in with some whalers, and sighted Cajitain Penny's expedition — the " I.aily Franklin " and the '* So])hia. the wind," we made fast to an ii cTcrg. I his is done by sinking a h.cavy iron hook in the herg, to which a cable is attached. This is a risky way of anchoring. It may hai)pen tli it the first blow A storm be o an i( eber^. in; V w IF^ ii r • 1 ^ r 4 ^ ij 1* i ' 1 1 ! I -1 ' 1 .1 V ' ■■ i m 182 Arctic Heroes. I that the sailor strikes, in order to settle the hook into the i< chcrg, rends the whole nia^s ; or the i)art on which he stands may sheUe (jIT, and he be pre(:ij)itatcd with it into the sea; or if the sjjot selected has not been carefully chosen to avoid such an accident, an overhanging i)iece of ice may, at the first stroke of his crowbar, fall upon his head. Hven the ship itself may be injured by the disruption of the berg under these cir- cumstances. On this occasion we chose a berg one of whose sides sloped to the sea, having no overhanging points. The "Pioneer" and "Intrepid" were soon made fast to it, and we rode out the gale securely. On the first of July the welcome signal came from the flag-ship: "Take the ships in tow," With a sixteen-inch hawser we took the " Resolute " by the nose. We were in company with Captain Penny's ships and several whalemen, but we soon left them astern. We dodged the bergs, pushed into an opening of the ice here, and made one in looser ice there, making headway through the loose pack as only propellers could. We were in the midst of scattered islands, from some of which the boats of the whalers were getting great quan- tities of eggs. After having for some time pushed our way through sonu- rotten ice six im lies thick, we came to a narri)\s lead of open water near the* land and made fast for the night. Some of us climbed to the highest point of the near land to enjoy the profound silence of an arctic night. Of in le la h Wi- ld k, ie« us to 0{ Frankliu Missing — Scan/: Coinntoiced. 183 course our ni^lit was as the day, antl we wore rest- less and unable to sleep under the constant hla/.e of light. JUit birds and beasts iiad retired to rest with their wonted regularity, as if it was a night of darkness. A heavy bank of clouds al.)i)ut the sun and the subdued tints of the sky gave a pleasant (|uietude to the scene. .\way westward, across Haffin IJav, the direction wi w ould K o. was ice, i( e, ice. Now and then we could catch a glimjjse of the windings of a narrow oi)ening of clear sea. We will push through the windings on the morrow, we thought, anil we shall see no more of the sailing vessels. lUit while we nuised Penny's " Lady Franklin " and " Sophia " sj)ed by. A breeze had sprung Uj), and the wide-awake Penny had spread his sails to it, and was beating the steamers. It won Id never do I We hurried on board, and, having had only a two hours' instead of a night's halt, we took the " Resolute " in tow and pushed forward. So mucli i'or the s])ur of a good example ! The " Intrei)id " followed, tugging the " Assistance." In the morning at seven o'clock we had passed Penny's s(|uadron. After a tow of thirty hours a block of ice dcOed the butting of our sharp jjrows, and both steamers and tiie ships hauled uj) to convenient icebergs. The sea-fowl called loons were about us in countless nundjers. Thousands (n)uld have been brought down by our guns if we had been disposed to devote ourselves for awhile to the sport. 1 clind)ed a small island near the " Pioneer. he on ly o] )en- ing leading westward commenced astern of u; 19 II m \ iff \ 1: m hi s J <" hi I'i .1 ''il 't ti(** } 184 Arctic Heroes. Into this tlio provoking Penny was already enter- ing, and was shooting ahead of our position. I amused myself in ])icking some anemones, pop- pies, and saxifras which grew in sheltered nooks. Though flowers of this rough arctic region, they possessed a delicate beauty. When our vessels stoi)ped, Captain Osborne sent the captain of the forecastle, with a boat's crew, to a headland not far off to get a supply of loons. The boat returned the next niurning without having shot a single fowl, th.ough not a man had a charge of powder or shot left. Captain Osborne called for the commander of the boat, and in([uiretl Ikuv he managed to fire away one jxjuikI of powder and four of small sluH and not bring home *i loon. Hanging his head, like a school-boy caught robbing his seat-mate's dinner-bask .'t, he an- swered : — " If you please, sir, we fired it all into a bear I " What ! " said the ca'jtai n, shot a bear witli N o. 4 s hot es, sir ; and if it hadn't have been for t wo or tliree who were afraid of him, we would have brought him aboard, too.'' Sending the bear-hunting forecastle officer about his business witli a reprimand for disobeying or- ders, the captain learned afterward the following facts : '{'he boat's company, in })absing a small island, saw a bear watching for his dinner at a seal-hole. 'i'hey at once agreed that to be the first to bring a bear home would immortalize both thcm an d th eir shi{ nev unmec liatel y 1 )0 ured w lu 11- \ or )iit ill Dili I'raiikliu Missixg — Search Coinnuuccd. 185 into his l)ro;i(l sides showers of biril-sliol I It probably made him feci a lilllc uiu omfortablc aiid considerably vexed, especially at being molested while pursuinu; an honest business — that of getting a needed meal, lie growled, snapped his teeth, ami trotted rcnmd the island. The valiant hunters followed him, giN'ing him more and more bird-;-.hot. Not liking to be pestered in this way, bruin plunged into tlie w;;ter antl swam to a |)ie<'e of broken ice. The heroic hunters followed, and gave him a brass button and the blade of a knife, and the like missiles, whi( h, ill the absence of balls, they had crammed into their guns. They *' made him jumi)," as " ( )ld Abbot," the officer of the forecastle, declared, and us he reached the ice he was bleeding and torn, though not very seriously injured, for a p' tame d, h ;irnes sed tf) a sJedue, and made to save 'h^' an aw ful siLMit (;i h:i rd di r;i>r(rin ir re d Tile reader must imagine us now, July 3, 1850, as I ti \-\ 1.1 ! W I ! HJ !! tt> 1 86 Arctic Heroes. I •. ! . i I ])ushing up the eastern or (Irccnland side ot" MafTin J^ay toward Cape York and Dudley Higgs, both of which may be easily found on the map. ()i!r objc< t was to get into the open water generally found on its northern boundary, and so cross to the eastern side and get into J Lancaster Sound. " The middle pack," as it was called, filled the center of the bay. Its eastern side was less fre- quently navigabh- than the western. We started in the morning through a narrow in-shore " lead." W'c were soon beset with " bars " of i( e with holes of water between ihem. The "Pioneer" undertook to break throu;j,h the l)ar>> with its sharp ])r()w, and then to drag the " Resolute" after it. We put on a full head of steam, and then rushed at it furiously. 'I'he ice thus smashed was ])ushed astern by the men, and a clear channel given us for another effort. We run a>lern far enough to get a good headway, set the proj)eller in motion, and came ui)on the bar again with a con- cussion wliich caused our vessel to ipiixer like a striuk bullock. Fragments of ice Hew like the spray, and great rents were made in it, and large cakes were broken off. But getting these cakes out so as to make a clear channel for another drive was a task which needed double our number (jf men. These could not be si)ared for the ])resent from the other vessels, so, before our brave boys could get theni out, they froze solid again ! Not only so, l)Ut the icy debris about the " Pioneer " froze in tlu' meantime, and the P'rost King held us in his firm grip. Scores of slrt^ng men now ( ame from Frank/ IN . I lissiii^. i«7 the other vessels to hrlj) iis. Hut it ^v,l^ to.) late ! Ice tools — saws, ( hisels, iroii-jioiiued poles, claws, and liiU'S — were of no a\ail. We were unwillin:;ly ''docked," and had only to make the best «if it, and wait tor the fickle arctic thaws, winds, and currents to come to our aid and set us free. ♦ W«i| IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 :^™- iiM I.I ^ 1^ 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■• 6" — ► v; / c^l S ■>■» M. #■ ^v y ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation tlJ ^ V ^ ^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 » nJ' C/a fe % J \k'ii i88 Arctic Heroes. !., i CHAPTER XVni. STEAMING THROUGH ICE-FLOES. I -A '. A\ \ I 'V WE were not disposed to improve the leisure of the '' Pioneer's "confinement by repeat- ing old Abbot's experiment of hunting polar bears with bird shot. But the following incident, taken from Captain Osborne's journal, shows that our sport was not without its excitement and danger : — " A few birds flying about induced myself and some others to go out shooting, a foggy night promising to be favorable to our larders. The ice, however, was full of holes, and very decayed, in addition to which it was in rapid motion in many piuces from the action of wind and tide. The risk of such sporting was well evinced in my gallant friend M.'s case. He was on one side of a lane of water, and I on the other ; a bird called the burgomaster flew over his head to the sea- ward, and he started in the direction it had gone. I and another shouted to warn him of the ice be- ing in rapid motion and very thin. He halted for a moment and then ran on, leaping from piece to piece. The fog at this moment lifted a little, and most providentially so, for suddenly I saw M. make a leap aiid disappear. The ice had given way ! He soon rose but without his gun, and I then saw him scramble upon a piece of ice, and SteafniHiy tJirouHi Ice- Floes. 1S9 on watching it, observed with a shudder that both he and it were drifting to the northward and away from us. Leaving my remaining companion to keep sight of M., and thus to point out the way on my return, I retraced my steps to the ' Pio- neer,' and, with a couple of men, a hand-line, and boarding pikes, started off in the direction M. was in. " I could tell my route pretty well by my com- panion's voice, which, in rich Milesian, was giving utterance to exclamations of the most original character : ' Keep up your courage, my boy ! Why don't you come back .'^ Faith, I suppose it's water that wont let you ! There will be some one there directly ! Hay ! hay ! hay ! Don't be downhearted any way.' " I laughed as I ran. My party placed them- selves about ten yards apart, the last man carrying the line ready to heave in case of the leader breaking through. So weak was the ice that we had to keep at a sharp trot to prevent the weight of our bodies resting long on any one spot ; and when we sighted our friend M., on his little piece of firm ice, the natural exclamation of one of my men was : ' I wonder how he ever reached it, sir!' " M. assisted us to approach him by pointing out his own route, and by exteriding our line, and holding on to it, we at last got near enough to take him off the piece of detached ice on which he had providentially scrambled. " I never think of the occurrence without a ■^1 190 Arctic Heroes. i Ml • i' W ii •5 I t i| / ^i sickening sensation, mixed with a comic recollec- tion of my companion's ejaculations." Our confinement was for only one day. Even be- fore our captain's return with his half-frozen friend M., the turn of the tide gave evidence that the ice '.bout the vessel was loosening and drifting away. They did not arrive a minute too soon. At noon of the next day we had the ships in tow, tugging away to the north-west. The fleet of whale ships, with all sails spread, showed an ambition to be up with us. Penny's ships were still ahead. We soon sighted the Devil's Thumb, a cape making the southern boundary of Melville Bay. It was an unattractive name given to a place of sad asso- ciations to sailors. Stormy winds blow here which have sunk many a noble craft. In one year twenty-eight whale ships went down before their terrific force. We made good progress for two days, quite as long as good progress could be expected to con- tinue in those regions. Wc had gone down to dinner with an intelligent captain of one of the whale ships. Our dinner and talk were abruptly broken off by an alarm from the deck. The face of the sky had vailed its smiles, and it was frown- ing terribly. A moaning gale, carrying before it a brown vapor, heralded the storm. The ice gleamed fiercely and the floes rapidly crowded to- gether, as if to make a united attack on the ships, icebergs clashing in the mean time most sav- agely. Woe to the ships which came between them in their terrific assaults. Stcamifig t /trough Icc-Floes. 191 A scene of the most exciting interest now com- menced. Suddenly the ice was peopled with five hundred men. Long saws, with evCry expedient known to arctic voyagers, were put in operation to open safe retreat^' in the solid ice, known as '■ docks," where the ships, each in his own cuddy, might, be safe from the contending floes. Each crew worked as for his own life, as well as that of his vessel. Defiant songs from h^ 'rse throats rose above the piping wind. Loud laughs and sharp witticism of the men mingled with the decisive orders of the officers. The ice was an average thickness of three feet. Saws teu feet in length were used. Huge blocks were cut out which were drilled, charged with powder, and blown to pieces, the officers doing this delicate part of the woik. In an incredible short time explorers and whale- men were securely stowed away in a sound part of a floe, ready to go with it to any contest it might choose. The pressure of the whole pack was expended upon a chain of icebergs nearly ten miles north of our position. Floes charging ice- berg? was an unequal fight. Though every cubic yard of the solid ice which composed the floes weighed a ton, yet when hurled against the grounded bergs it was broken into fragments, thrown back, and piled into elevated heap^. The din of the battle was heard afar off. A bear, snuffing, perhaps, the odors from our many camp fires, came in sight. Away scampered a multitude of hunters, rushing pell-mell at the game, armed with whatever first came to hand. I '*-i'd ■rs, tit* 192 Arctic Heroes. 'f : i 1 * Bruin, alarmed in good time, and having a long start of his foes, might have won tlie race. But a sharp appetite, tempted by a seal which lay across liis path, overcame his discretion. He stopped to eat, and that meal cost him his life. He was shot by the foremost hunters, and brought home in triumph. The floes broke up as suddenly as they formed. Channels of water appeared in various directions. Through these the steamers towed the " Resolute " and "Assistance." The other sailing vessels w^ere " tracted " along these channels, as in canals the boats are drawn by horses. The crews of the whale ships, often counting sixty men, were fast- ened to a long line by their " tract-belts," and, with shouts and songs, made their heavy ships plow through the water at good speed. Frequent bars of thick ice brought to a stand- still the sailing vessels, but we, with our powerful wedge-like prow, pushed by the giant engine, drove through them, dragging at our heels the " Resolute." The men from the whalers came quizzing round, wondering at our power ; even Penny "gave it up," and rated steam a success in arctic navigation. Some of the whale ships, dis- couraged by this tedious way of making j^rogress, turned back, though a few hung upon our rear. The bars at last gave way, and Penny was the first to enter the clear sea. The " Pioneer " and " Intrepid " made the best speed they could with their awkward sailing charges. We could only sail three miles an hour thus encumbered. Alone / Stcwniug i/nvitgk Ice- Floes. 193 we could have made five. Onward we steered, and we vainly imagined Ave should have no more ice-packs, but were soon to be in the " nt)rth water," and thence, sailing westward, to gain Lan- caster Sound, and the region where we hoped to get upon the track of the lost Franklin. How this hope thrilled our hearts! But a few days only passed before all the searching squadrons were once more ice-bound. Between us and the shore was solid ice, called the land-floe, thirty miles in extent. It followed the irregularities of the coast, and seemed as firm as if it were an unchangeable part of it. Here and there, fast anchored within it, was a noble iceberg. We were held tight by the heavy, drifting ice, which, as it crowded against our ships, well deserved the name of *' pack-ice;" at any rate we were packed into it very closely. The glare of the sun so dazzled the eyes of the men as they walked about near the ship, that many ludicrous appearing spectacles were devised to screen the eyes, causing much merriment. We were entertained too, as we sauntered about, by a beautiful refraction, Distant objects were lifted into the clouds and seen double. Some were curiously distorted. Captain Penny's ships, full thirty miles away, and whalers, lying in dif- ferent directions, were brought into full view. As the ice yielded to the current below, holes were opened. In these narwhal, or sea-unicorns, soon appeared, puffing and plunging about, seem- ing to be in fine spirits. An officer of the " In- m 194 Arctic Heroes. ■■ 11 ' Ii { !v1 ii:i '§[ f;; ^ ':^ 'if'' , ^ [ h ;i'i 'ii'' 1 1 1 t ^ N ^ trepi'.l " fired at one of them, and, by special good luck, gave it a mortal wound. It was captured, dragged to the vessel, and great rejoicing made ov("- it. Its flesh was rei)ulsive in smell and taste, and not to our liking as food. Some of the men ate it with a relish, and declared it tasted like chesnuts ! Just under the skin is a layer of fat or " blubber," which we carefully removed and boiled down to make oil. The spiral horn protruding from the front of its head, was about five feet long, and the whole fish was nearly eleven feet long. We reckoned its size about pn average. The horn had a blunt but polished point, the rest of it being covered with slime and a greenish sea-weed. The fislier- men have various opinions about the use of this horn. It seems too clumsy as a weapon of attack or defense. Some think that he roots with it on the bottom of the sea, as a hog does in the sty. Others declare that they have seen him probe the fishes with it from the crevices of the ice, where they had hid to get out of his way. It must be quite handy for such a purpose. But as this tusk does not seem to be of very great use and is worn only by the male narwhal, it has been suggested that it is simply a badge of superior dignity. Baby narwhals wear two of these tusks, but one is deemed sufficient when they become grown folks. We left the carcass of our specimen to be devoured by the sea-fowl, and the greediness with which great numbers of them feasted upon it, showed t/iei'r opinion of narwhal flesh. The tel" i i!l tlii Steaviino^ throt(i^/i Icc-FIocs. 195 Esquimo consider it good eating, and no doubt \vc should if very luingry. All agree tliat its flesh is an excellent preventive of the scurvy. The good luck of the officer who shot it in securing a tusk to carry home as a trophy, caused the sport of these fish to be much disturbed. Showers of bullets were poured into them ; and, if they could not dodge them they soon learned to be shy. After refraction and the narwhals had, in turn, entertained us, a huge iceberg gave a rare exhibi- tion for our gratification. We had noticed its great size and solidity. It looked sufficiently massive to defy the winter storms and . jmmer thaws of centuries. All at once it began to fall to pieces, as if shaken by an earth([uake. Large masses fell from it into the water, shattered into a thousand pieces ! The sea around it seethed like a caldron. The swell that it occasioned lifted the floes for ten miles. We were glad that its dissolu- tion took place at a safe distance from us. One day Captain Penny,, being on board of us, went into the " crow's nest," and swept the hori- zon with his glass. Hurrying to the deck and making preparations for a hasty departure for his own vessel, he exclaimed : " The land ice is break- ing up! " We knew that his keen and practiced eye could not be deceived, and that ten miles of icy girding of the shore was soon to be in motion, threatening destruction to whatever came within its powerful "nips." We instantly armed for the conflict, and every man was at his post of duty, '1 t. i ' f I ^ '^ >'l , ' -S ill , '. Hi '< ■ -y 'iv^i li'i ■li 202 Arctic Heroes. iii'i Star." Having done this errand, the "Assistance" and " Intrepid " were to cross to the west side, and examine the north shore of Lancaster Sound. On the 15th of August we, the " Pioneer," with the " Resohite "' and " Prince Albert " in tow, gUidly started again westward. After four hours of the old experience with the ice-pack, we reached the western waters. For forty-seven days we had l)cen in almost perpetual conflict with ice. It had beset us behind and before. In calm and storm, by day and night, whether we slept or woke, off or on our guard, it never left us, except for a brief moment, that it might gather strength for a fiercer attack. Such had been Melville Bay. But here was nothing except water ! How beauti- ful ! Even the great giants of the north, the ice- bergs, watchful sentinels of the regions of cold, only seldom showed here their majestic forms. We turned our bows south-west, and steamed on both night and day. Our only annoyance was a dismal fog, but through it we steered. At one time, a spanking breeze starting up, the " Resolute," setting all sail, took our steamer in tow, and for four hours returned our favor, in part, of long and weary hours of towing. It was a capital joke, and we en- joyed it. We were soon at the mouth of Lancaster Sound, where we dropped the " Prince Albert," to proceed to Regent Inlet, while we explored for awhile a little further south. On the 26th of August, after days of a calm sea, wc were running from the north side of Lancaster Significant Relics. 203 Sound, toward the south-west, across the entrance to Regent Inlet, toward Leopold Ishmd. A piping breeze was after us, giving assurance of an arctic gale. Ahead Cape York gleamed luridly through an angry sky, while the falling mercury warned us that the clear sea, with which we cared not for the tempest, might at any time give place to our old enemy, the floes. The " Pioneer " rolled and pitched like a sea-monster in mental agony, and refused all the devices of her staggering ofticers to comfort her. About half-})ast one in the morning the lifting of an angry sky gave us glimpses, through snow and squalls, of a i)recipitous coast not far ahead of us. Increasing daylight shoived us an intervening pack, along whose edge the gale made the sea boil, and sent over it clouds of spray. It was a wild, terrific sight, and would have been a scene to enjoy but for the serious work it was likely to give us. It wore away to the north. Toward the close of the day we were not far from Beechey Island, near the mouth of Wellington Channel. We were having ni .; •! Ill story, two shi[)S luid, in 1846, been crushed. But they found nothing, either in relics or the talk of the natives, to confirm the tale. They had ascertained, liowever, that the exploring vessel, the " North Star," had si)ent comfortably the last Avinter there. JUit since following us into Lancaster Sound their searching had been well repaid. They had found at Ca})e Riley, the eastern land-side of the mouth of Wellington Channel, numerous traces of a visit from English seamen. Bits of rope, broken bottles, a part of a deep-sea rake, and the various marks of an encampment, were scattered here and there. Having found these stimulating relics, a boat- load of officers and men visited Beechey Island, lying just a little seaward of the cape. They picked 'ip on the shore more relics of English visitors. Looking sharply about they observed upon a cliff, which rose sharply from the beach, a cairn — a rounded heap of stones. With almost breathless haste and deep solicitude they ascended the cliff and removed the stones carefully, one by one. But no word of writing or further clew to the identity of those raising the cairn was found. While standing with disappointed-looking faces about the upturned foundation of the monumental pile, they saw with alarm a hungry polar bear trot- ting boldly toward the two men left in charge of the boat. None of the party had brought arms of any kind from the vessel. Here was a fix! The men launched the boat and rowed in haste to the steamer. Bruin gave chase. Now what if he turns back and attacks the unarmed party on the Significant Relics. 205 island I He seemed, before giving chase, to have deliberately surveyed the whole party, both those on the hill as well as the men in the boat, and to comprehend the situation. But he scorned to attack the defenseless; or, perhaps, he had heard rumors of these strangers which led him to think that it was wisdom to give them a wide berth. He followed the boat a rod or two, turned off and swam for the ice-pack, on which he soon dis- appeared. We think there were no more unarmed visitors on the island during the season. Captain Penny having heard of these traces, as all believed, of Sir John Franklin, returned to his own ship, as he declared, " to take up the search from Cape Riley like a blood-hound." This he did with good results. He soon reported that another camping-ground was discovered. The tent-floor was neatly paved with stones. Bird bones were strewn around, and remnants of meat- canisters found of unmistakable English make. The American Grinnell Expedition, in the "Ad- vance " and " Rescue," on the same errand as our- selves, under the command of Lieutenant De Haven, was now joined with our squadrons in the exciting search. The shores of the entire vicinity, in a sweep '^f many miles, were likely to be closely examined. Here were now our four vessels. Penny's two. Sir John Ross's "Felix " and her tender, the "Mary," and the American "Advance" and " Rescue." Penny, as usual, was in luck, and soon found evidence of more tent-encampments. But, as he was carefully examining one day the SI! i -mx ,K ^ I^i ' 'if r : ! ! « I 'A 1 N *; !'), I .1^. M jj n 1 ail I i I. Ill- I 206 Arctic Heroes. southern slope of Reechey Island, he found a large number of preserved meat-tins. A rounded pile of these, filled with sand, was discovered on the top of the slope; but a careful removal of these, can by can, revealed no documents. Beyond these, and farther north, Avere still more important relics. The site of a carpenter's shop, an armorer's working place, washing-tubs, coal- bags, pieces of old clothing and rope; and, lastly, the decisive evidence of the English visitors, *hree graves. These were scrupulously neat, like all the graves of Englishmen, even of the poor, whether in the rural cemeteries at home or on foreign shores. The inscrii)tions contained no inflated verse. They were as follows : — "Sacred to the memory of J. Torrinton, who departed this life January i, 1846, on board H. M. S. ' Terror,'-aged 20 years." "Sacred to the memory of \Vm. Braine, R. N., of H. M.S. 'Erebus;' died April 3, 1846, aged 32." "'Choose you this day whom ye will serve.' Joshua xxiv, 15." "Sacred to the memory of J. Hartwell, A. B., of H. M. S. * Erebus,' died January 4, 1846, aged 25 years." " ' Thus saith the Lord of hosts ; Consider your ways.' Haggai i, 7." Here then, at last, was decisive proof that Frank- lin's ships were not crushed by the ice in Baffin Bay, nor the men murdered by the natives. Thus far we were on the right track. Now, if in some of the monuments of stone, such as we had dis- Significant Relics. 207 covered, ])iit up beyond a doiil)t by the men of the "Erebus" and "Terror," we could find a docu- ment left by Franklin, telling us the route taken by him after leaving Beechey Island, all the ex- ploring squadrons would joyfully face any danger in following him. To find such a record now engaged the attention of every ship's company. Much additional evidence was obtained that he had made Beechey Island his first winter-quarters ; but no documents were found. Winter was now well upon us. The American vessels took a courteous leave of us, and bore away, as they had been ordered, for New York. By the middle of September our squadron were caught in a floe, a mile from (Griffith Island, the nearest land, where we were obliged to make a stop for the winter. Captain Penny and Sir John Ross, with their vessels, had chosen snug winter retreats twenty miles from us, near Beechey Island. It was arranged for the three squadrons to take three different routes m the spring : one to the north-west, up Wellington Channel ; one west, past if possible Melville Island ; and the third south-west, beyond Cape Walker, along the west- ern shore of Boothia. During October parties were sent out as far as possible in these directions to make deposits of provisions, securing them from the bears' sharp teeth and strong paws by heaps of stones. One of these parties were saved from a plunge into the water, if not from drowning, by the sagacity of a shaggy polar who was at the time on a hunting excursion. The officer in charge had i^ * U m ■•ittij i \Vi i !M If '■ i'^ ^ • i ' 'J 5 fi 1 1 ^. \ 1 ,''( 1 1 r i i '• II iti! ''I t ^i\ I ' ;-! '^ ■*. I i Hi ■"'■i f 1: 1 i 'i! 208 Arctic Heroes. not noticed that he was getting on newly formed and weak ice. Just ahead was bruin cautiously feeling his way along by stojjping occasionally and jumping upon the ice to try its strength. The explorers took the hint of caution and soon found reason to do so. We are sorry to record that they sliot their good adviser, and subsequently dragged him to the ship for dog food. One illustration of our manner of camping on these excursions will answer to show their general character. There are seven of us, officers and men ; com- mon labor and peril pretty much removing official distinction. It is an October evening. One al- most unbroken mantle of white covers sea and land. It is a dreary monotony, and all nature seems to shiver in the frosty atmosphere. We make a " soft spot," by clearing away the larger pieces of limestone, and arranging the smaller pieces into something like a floor of paved work. We erect our brown Holland tent over this. One of us is cook for the day, aided by one who will be cook to-morrow. The cooking apparatus is a boats' stove, eighteen inches long and nine broad, in which lignum viiic is used as fuel. Water is obtained by melting the snow, and then the boil- ing and cooking is done in the open air, and so supper is not hurried up wdth boarding-house promptness. While two are thus employed, others take guns and try their luck in securing fresh provisions. Bear meat is not sought after just now, and the ';, I guns Significant Relics. 209 animal under whose skin such meat grows har. liberty to keej) botli his skin and flesh and give our camj) a wide berth. The hunters having returned, tlic cook reports, — "Supper is ready, sir." It is -x pcmmican sup- per! It is supposed \.o be made of the best rump- steaks and suet, worth a shilling and six-pence a pound. Our men generally vote it composed of worn-out horses and Russia tallow. Ii is not sweet in savor, though strong in nourishment. To the dainty it is nauseous, but to an arctic appetite, especially to those making, as we propose to do, sledge-journeys of four or five hundred con- tinuous miles, it is a delicious morsel. A ''jolly hot basin of tea," with biscuit to crumb into it, and our dish is fit "to set before the ([ueen." Supper being done, the tent is carefully swept, and the pebbles which coraj^ose our bed are re- arranged. We call this last operation — " Stirring up the feathers." A waterproof blanket is thrown over these to prevent the moisture which the warmth of our bodies raises from the frosty " feath- ers " from wetting us through. Boots and jackets are taken off and used for pillows. Then we all, except the cook, draw our legs and bodies into blanket-bags, roll ourselves up in wolf-skin robes, and, our prayers being said, we are about ready to compose ourselves to sleep. But while the cook is "clearing up," getting ready the breakfast for cooking, fastening down the tent, and seeing that every thing is in order, many a tough yarn is told, and laughter-exciting joke made. After a ' If ■I' \\ 1- .'i '\\ "(?i »L 1,-L ft. III 11 w I ■ ■H',,, f 1 ii'i H' «fi. -\a 4 I ir *M, V ^'^h ,;, .■ , |h' ■V ll Ik 210 Arctic Heroes. while the cook, having "tucked us in," shouts — "All riL;hl ! " Then we, seven jolly explorers, lying alternately head and feet across the tent, "cuddle down " and sleep ; yes, sleep soundly, with the thermometer outside 30° below zero. An arctic winter was now, November 8, fairly Uj)on us. We obtained to-day the last glimpse of the sun. Two of us went upon the heights of (Iriffith Island at mid-day, and saw his i)leasant face, though he was in fact seventeen miles below the horizon. We were indebted to refraction for this last adieu from the King of Day. However hopeful of the future we might be, and possessed as we certainly were with more occasion for cour- age than most other sojourners in the long arctic night, the bravest needed to stay his mind upon God. This, we trust, many at least of our com- pany felt. The religious services of our vessel had a more solemn meaning. The prayers were deeper toned. The following form of supplica- tion, written for us before we I'eft England, and included among the thoughtful presents of kind friends, was used with profit : — " O Lord, our Heavenly Father, who teachest man knowledge, and givest skill and power to ac- complish his designs, we desire continually to wait, and call, and depend upon thee. Thy way is in the sea, and thy paths in the great- waters. Thou rulest and commandest all things. We therefore draw nigh unto thee for help in the great work which we now have to do. " Leave us not, we beseech thee, to our own SigiiiJicaHt Relics. 211 own counsel, nor to the imaginations of our foolish and deceitful hearts; but lead us l»y the way wherein we should go. Do thou, () Lord, make our way ])rosperous, and give us good success. Bring all needful things to our rememl)rance ; and where we have not the presence of mind, nor the ability, to perform thy will, magnify thy power in our weakness. Let thy good ))rovidence be our aid and protection, and thy Holy Si)irit our (luide and Comforter. Endue us with such strength and patience as may carry us through every toil and danger, whether by sea or land; and, if it be thy good pleasure, vouchsafe to us a safe return to our families and homes. " Bless us all with thy favor, which is life, and with all spiritual blessings in Christ Jesus; and grant us so to pass the waves of this troublesome world, that finally we may come unto thine ever- lasting kingdom. Grant this for thy dear Son's sake, Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen." A glance at our good ship, inside and out, and at what is going on in and around her, may inter- est the reader : Our upper decks are now cleared of all the lumber and covered in ; boats secured on the ice ; the warming apparatus set at work ; masts and yards made as snug as possible ; rows of posts set up to show the road in the darkness and snow-storms, from ship to ship ; hole cut in the ice, >.o be kept always open, for a supply of water in case of fire, and a winter round of duties entered upon to keep up the discipline, cheerful- ness, and health of the men. i'i V : :' i ■I '•■ I:'. '. i', ■ ii' Ml: M fill II I i I I I I 'f U ' - I , f*'. mi j : 1 1 i f ■ 1 : 1 f it if I 11 Hi f 212 Arctic Heroes. This work being done — the rm/ work was easily and soon done — tlie men found ])lcasure and healthful enij)loyment in rciK\vin;j; the sports of boyh(jod. They built snow walls, houses, and forts, such as all boys in the lands where snow is found have delighted to build. They cut out of the snow obelisks, sphinxes, vases, and cannon. 'I'hese were sometimes carved with taste and skill, and gave the floes a picturescjue appearance. Uut their greatest triumph in snow sculjjture was in the statue of liritannia. Its stately form, looking west, was admired by all. . These out-door amusements were, of course, only for awhile. When tliey failed the wits and tact of the officers were drawn out to keej) every mind healthfully exercised. Schools, religious serv- ices, newspapers — one an illustrated sheet — a ( lub- room, a saloon, dramatic performances, mask balls, and instructive lectures — all claimed a share of attention. Artists and musicians, orators and teachers, common laborers and professional men, were all represented in this routine of instruction and amusement. Men gifted in telling the stories of the " olden times," especially if they could repeat the tales concerning early arctic heroes, were always sure of an attentive audience. It is a day of total darkness so far as the sun is concerned, but the manner in which it is spent fitly represents the average of our winter days. Let us ste]) below. The lower deck and cabins are lighted with candles and lamps. No external air is admitted except that which is under control Si(^nifica}it Relics. 213 as it passes in through pii)cs and passes out throujijh ventilators. Double doors are rarefuUy adjusted to prevent draughts. It is breakfast- time. Reeking hot cocoa steams on every niess- tabie. We are not on " short rations," and a hearty meal is eaten. This done, a few remain below to clear u^) and arrange for dinner; the rest pull on warm clothes and go on deck. Here, after the domestic work below is done, all hands are mustered. The officers inspect the men to see if they are clean, watching sharply every occa- sion of disease. The shij) is then examined to sec if every part is clean, and all hands disperse to their petty labor, and then amuse themselves according to their several tastes. The ujn^'r deck being covered, as we have stated, is kept clear for gymnastic exercises. If the wind is not violent a few venture to stroll away from the ship on the ice. At noon the seamen dine on soups, and pre- served meats called by them "salt horse." The officers dine later on fare not essentially different. The resources of the men in inventing entertain- ment flitgs a little in the afternoon, and the evening meal with hot tea comes to break tlie monotony. It is school night, and the pupils go to their self- imposed tasks, and the teachers to their gratuitous service. Bookish men con over some interesting volume. Artists are sketching or painting by candle-light, and men given to the use of the pen are writing up their journals, or putting on paper thoughts born under the inspiration of arctic skies. y ^ iM r i 'I * "•&',t t'i 'i "' t 1 M' 1 '.'i ■ *": 'A id t ,;i!!r.i;i!l 214 Arctic Heroes. Music, chess, and cards receive their share of attention, while social conversation is seldom wa.it- ing in vivacity ; and, since we unfortunately have not learned the better way, cigars, pipes, and grog bring round the bed-time. But in spite of all our amusements, labor, study, conversation, and earnestly-cultivated heroic brav- ery of which we boasted, there was a very noticeable tendency among us to talk of England, friends, and home. While the above methods of passing the time occupied the attention generally, there were some who devoted all their energies to render successful the object of our search. They were practicing the various ingenious means, put into our hands before we left home, of communicating with the lost ones. Rockets in the calm evenings glowed and flashed along the sky, and were responded to by Penny's ships, though we were twenty miles apart. We employed balloons in a novel way. Those of oil-silk, capable when inflated of raising a pound, were used. When one was all ready to ascend, a piece of slow match five feet long was attached. Along this match-rope, at short inter- vals, pieces of colored silk and paper were secured with thread; on them were printed information of our present positior. and intended lines of search in the si)ring. The balloons, when liberated, rose and sailed away, dropping the glaring messages on the white snow as the match burned. Our silent prayers followed them that they might fall ) I Significant Relics. 215 ,hare of m wiiiit- ely have md grog )r, study, oic brav- oticeable , friends, the time ere some ,uccessful practicing )ur hands with the 5s glowed )onded to nty miles Those raising a ready to long was lort inter- e secured mation of of search ated, rose messages id. Our might fall under the eye of some one belonging to the lost ships. Great care was used to send ihem up when the wind promised to carry them to the north and north-west. A few fire-balloons were also sent up. It was vexatious to see these aerial vessels sail about in the upper currents of air in the most fickle manner. Starting off north-west, they were soon gliding away to the south-east, altering their course several times before disappearing from sight. The greatest distance at which we found any of these pieces of silk or paper was fifty miles. Some may have gone many times as far. Another means of communication used were carri'ir-pigeons. We of the " Pioneer " brought out none of them, and wc confess that we were inclined to laugh at the idea of these birds being able to reach their far-away home in safety if dis- patched from any of our exploring ships ; but there were four of them on board the " Felix," given to Sir John Ross by a lady friend living near Ayr, in Scotland. He agreed to set two of them at liberty when he went into winter-quarters, and the oiher two when Sir John Franklin was found. On the 7th of October, 1850, when snugly tucked away in his harbor, near Beechey Island, he sent off the youngest couple. They were put into a basket attached to a balloon, a slow match being so arranged as to liljerate and launch them into the air, to commence their flight at the expiration of twenty-four hours. The balloon ascended to com- mence its aerial voyage when it was supposed that 14 ^1 11 \n ^■'\ r f :i|i -I';:'! \l . I 1 1 II 216 Arctic Heroes, the atmospheric current -would bear it many miles their -.vay. It blew a gale at the time and the temperature was below zero. In about five days one of them, as the lady owner affirmed, reached the dove-cot where it was l)orn. It had disen- cumbered itself somehow of the message with which it was intrusted, though its feathers bore evidence of its having started with one. The dis- tance in an air line was not less than twenty-four hundred miles; the distance which the balloon had borne it we, of course, cannot tell, but its sus- tained flight on the wing must have been truly wonderful. The experiments we made to use kites as signals to parties at a distance were not very successful; but we used them to good purpose. When our sledges were running before a strong wind on level and smooth ice we let fly the kites as sail ,, and with shouts and laughter sped on our way. But, of course, we could not often have smooth sailing and a fair breeze, so that for the greater part of the time the sails were a dead weight on us. There was among us another device for convcv- ing intelligence to our lost friends, though it must be confessed we adopted it more for amusement than in confidence of its success. Curious little arctic foxt:. were slyly peering about our ships. Some of these we caught, fixed a brass collar on them, on which our message was engraved, and then set them free. The discharge of on^ of these foxy postmen was a signal of a general chase by officers and men, with bursts of laughter and wild shouts which, Significant Relics. 217 issful ; in our d on sail ,, way. rnooth greater on us. invcy- uist be t than arctic me of jem, on t them ostmen d men, which, at times, seemed so to bewilder them that they ran hither and thither, making their capture easy if we had desired it. A more courteous dismissal would, we think, have better disposed them to a faithful delivery of our messages. These liberated foxes were presumed to immi- grate to distant and more friendly ncighborl oods after this rough experience. But it leaked out that the " men " in the forecastle were nightly re- capturing these collared gentlemen, making dainty meals of their flesh, and lacking away their skins for future speculations with fur-dealers. Orders were promptly issued that foxes taken alive must be liberated. Jack, from the going forth of this edict, took good care that all foxes putting their noses into the traps should be found dead. The fact seemed to be that these cunning animals liked the fare they scented and occasionally tasted about our ships, and were willing to risk their lives in getting a second taste ; they seemed in nowise in- clined to do our errands to our lost friends. The dark winter passed thus away. On the 7th of February, 1851, a man at the mast-head proclaimed the good news that the sun had re- turned. The rigging of all the vessels was soon manned to get a glimpse of his welcome face. He had been absent three months. He was greeted with prolonged and hearty cheers. For one whole hour he blessed us by his presence and then re- tired, promising us a longer stay each successive day until he should pay us the long summer visit. Preparations were now hurried forward for the m a* 1= \i m .4 !•' ^ 1 » 1 t ', jt ■ ' ■ I ' 'if » i'i ' , ■ r rl ;• * ^,il<: ;i rUli [: 'I it'i'i ^1 H ! I'l'^l! I i' ! , i-:. i N- 1^^ * 1 ^ 1 ■ '1 i 7 2!8 Arctic Heroes. proposed sledging. Time flew on rapid wings, and April was upon us before we were fully ready for it. Five hundred men, British and Americans, were astir within the frigid zone, aiming at the same result — that of saving Sir John Franklin. The men of our squadron were mus*^ered, on the T2th of April, under a projecting poini of Griffith Island, to be inspected by our chief. 1 his done, we returned to our ship and spent the i!'abbath quietly, having religious service, and in^lulging some sober though not depressed feelings in ref- erence to the responsible and Irborious duties which we were to enter upon on Monday. But that day came breezy with blinding snow. Tues- day evening came with abated wind, and the thermometer o/i/y fourteen degrees below zero, so we donned our traveling gear, harnessed ourselves to the sledges, listened to a brief but earnest prayer, in which we were commended to God's providential care, and started. We will not detain the reader with the details of our desperate struggles over hummocks, our suf- ferings from snow blindness and frost bites, and our varied perils and the unflinching bravery of our men for fifty-eight days. Our return journey was five hundred miles in a direct line. The last day homeward we made twenty-five miles. This may attest the pluck with which we closed our search. The other sledge parties returned soon after. Only one man had fallen, and he faltered at the be- ginning. No additional information concerning Sir John had been obtained. Penny's sledge parties Significant Relics. 219 to the north-west had been equally unsuccessful. No news of the lost ones came from any explor- ing party, though thousands of miles had been traversed ♦^o secure it. Our icy fetters having fallen olf on the nth of August, the steamers took their ships in tow and once more pushed out of Lancaster Sound. Cap- tain Penny's ships left for England at the same time, and Sir John Ross was homeward bound. Our squadron spent a few weeks in vain search further north, when we, too, squared awav for "home, s>veet home." \\ . l\ rod's i M 41 >! ' '^'i *l 220 Arctic Heroes. ! HI CHAPTER XX. YANKEE ICE-FIGHTING. WE have referred to the fact that the people and Government of the United States were r(jt idle spectators of the efforts of England to save her lost explorers. The American interest in the searching expeditions sent out in 1848 from England was preparing the public mind for one which should fly the stars and strij^es. To prompt this interest, Lady Franklin wrote to the President. Through him she called upon us, '' as a kindred people, to join heart and hand in the enterprise of L latching the lost navigators from a dreary grave." Congress moved in the matter, but with a tardi- ness which belongs to "great bodies," Delay in this business was the assurance of failure, so that the coming forward just in time of a princely merchant of New York, tendering a part of the resources of his purse, saved probably the credit of our nation in reference to the arctic search. Mr. Henry Grinnell fitted out two of his vessels, and gave them for the enterprise to the Govern- ment, The President, under the authority of Congress, detailed from the navy such officers and seamen to man them as he deemed competent to the service, and as had also an ambition for the Yankee Ice-Fighting, 221 w e people ites were gland to interest 848 from I for one prompt ^resident. 1 kindred mterprise a dreary h a tardi- Delay in e, so that L princely irt of the the credit ic search, is vessels, e Govern- hority of fftcers and npetent to on for the perilous undertaking. The vessels received the appropriate names of " Advance " and " Rescue." They were small brigs, both together rating only two hundred and thirty-five tons. Tiiey were simply lumbering coasters to the eye, but, judged by their adaptation to the service to which they had been a[)pointed, brave looking crafts. Their hulls had two coverings, each, of two and a half inch oak plank ; a heavy shield of strips of slieet- iron extended from the bows along the sides. Their decks were double, and made water-tight. The inside was ceiled with cork, to secure greater warmth and dryness. Their wooden frame-works were made doubly strong. The rudders could be unshipped and taken on board in four minute^". Neither careful planning, skill, nor expenditure of money were wanting to make them all they needed to be. The crews were man-of-war's men, of various nationalities, constitutions, and habits, and were not especially promising in their make-up, but proved true under severe tests — a fact creditable, we should think, to the officers, as well as men. The larger vessel, the " Advance," carried thirteen seamen and four officers ; the " Rescue " had the same number of officers, and twelve seamen. The expedition was commanded by Captain De Haven, in the " Advance," under wliom was Lieutenant Griffin, in the " Rescue." Elisha K. Kane, M.D., who rose to such distinction among arctic navigators, and to whose ready pen we are indebted for rich stores of information of the \: I ■I \ m III if 1 i f i ' < \ * .' * I r • I ■ ' ! !• ' ' :i: • ! I ! > j ■' « .a ii uU\ ' 1 ' ' } 1 1; : ; ^ 1 y. i ';^ 222 Arctic Heroes. northern seas, was the surgeon of the flag-ship, " Advance." After all that was done to make the outfit thorough, the comforts and aids in prosecuting the search on the part of the American vessels compared poorly with those of the steam-propeller squadron wc have just described. The cabins were of small dimensions, containing just four not roomy berths. Jack's cjuarters were, of course, crowded. The smashing of floes was to be done by the brigs themselves, without the powerful aid of the giant steam-engine. The squadron started on its errand of love on the 2 2d of May, 1850. The witnessing crowd waved them kind adieus from the wharves and house-tops, and many a " God bless you ! " was breathed as the news of their departure was read in the households of the land, while many hearts in the fatherland were thrilled with joy at their noble purpose. We shall assume a cozy place in the cabin of the flag-ship, where we hope to be no intruder, while we carefully note the events more or less peculiar to this expedition. On the 17th of June the night left us, or rather the darkness, for our sun, having retired at the unseasonable hour of ten P.M., rose at the early hour of two A.M. We learned by the nerve-dis- turbing continuance of blazing light how blessed is darkness to the heavy eyelids. We were, in a few more days' sail, well into the region of icebergs and glaciers, and the rugged, Yankee Ice-FigJiting. 223 ice-bound and snow-clad shore of Grf^enland came into view. A solitary berg, of majestic propor- tions, attracted our attention. Behind it the sun was shining, lighting the sea with a crimson hue. While we were watching the berg it lost its balance, probably by the shelving off of some projecting crag, and it began to swing back and forth, rolling vast waves in a widening circuit over the sea. This sudden action of the berg startled from their resting-place in its icy crevices myriads of birds, which rose in a dark, circling cloud above it. The scene was novel to us and impressive. On the 24th of June our sun, having descended to the verge of the horizon, started again on its upward course. We were soon at a Danish port in the Bay of Disco. Here we learned that the English squad- ron, under Commodore Austin, had left only the day before. His steamers, the " Pioneer " and " Intrepid," would keep him, we thought, in ad- vance of our clumsy sailing vessels. While we waited on deck for our boat to be manned to carry us ashore we observed a black object in the water coming from the land toward the ship. It moved rapidly and seemed like a Newfoundland dog. As it approached we could discern a black projection from it too long for the neck and head of a dog; while a curious flapping was going on, first on this side and then on that, as it sped swiftly along. When in a few moments it was along side, we obtained our first clear view of a Greenland kayak. It was canoe-shaped, and ,.» s fJ t I :3s,.^l i M m ^^*5 h J 'h :f! i^ 1 |r:';^.|^M f :it; M :.| 1 ! i : ;| i 1 ift i I u ^. ^ :| ; i ^ .:^ 1 i ^1 '1 i ';i i :| : ^ t ;l i ;« ■1 224 Arctic Heroes. over its frame seal skins were tightly drawn. It was both air and water tight, excepting a hole nearly in its center, just large enough to receive its occupant. It was eighteen feet long and twen- ty inches wide, running off to a sharp point at both ends. The Esquimo sailor was nicely adjusted to the hole in the center. His undressed, hooded, seal- skin coat was drawn closelv over a rim aroiind the hole, fitting tightly, and completely shutting out the water. He seized in the middle an oar bladed at both ends, and, dipping it on either side rapidly and with wonderful skill, skimmed over the water as if boat and man were parts of the same animal — a thing of beauty, grace, and vivacity. As we rowed to the shore a fleet of these kayaks hung in our wake, or hovered about our sides, just outside the dip of our oars, like hungry sea-fowls after a morning breakfast. Our first impression of the people, who are Esquimo with some Danish blood, was one of disgust. Oil and fat, raw hides of seals, scraps of fish and discarded bones, and various kinds of garbage, were scattered every-where about the huts. Inside they were still more filthy — men, women, and children, old people and the invalids, were crowded into the smallest possible space. Their summer huts, in which some of them were now living, were made of reindeer skins. Their winter houses were half under ground. We saw in one, only six feet by eight, a father, mother, four children, and a grandfather, a tea-kettle, a rude box, two rifles, and a litter of puppies. I f 3 ''H 1 Jn r a, ■1 Mi M 1 I i : f I i ! I ■ ■ f i ' \ * 1 ■■ t 1 i i I - i t ; • i i M 1 \inkce Icv-FigJitiug. While we were rowing among the islands of Disco Bay we noticed the remarkable transparency of the water. This has often been noticed by voyagers to the Polar Seas as characteristic of them. We could see every feature of the bottom at a depth of sixty feet. A luxuriant growth of deep green plants, and long, tangled grasses, waved as gracefully as if they were the objects of constant observation by admiring men. We obtained at (lodhavn, on Disco Island, our outfit of fur clothes. The most important arti- cles were a close-fitting jacket, called a "jumper," with a hood like that worn by our ladies on a water-proof, and water-tight seal-skin boots. We were soon under all sail crowding our way toward the f/or/A loatcr — the iceless sea beyond Melville Bay. Vessels sometimes cross from the Greenland to the west side of Baffin Bay, farther south, and occasionally they see an opening through the middle waters, but generally it is the quickest and safest route to keep on the east side until reaching the northern opening. On the first of July we began our conflict with field-ice — broken fragments of great extent. July 2 we were sailing in water free from the drifting cakes of ice, but the huge, cold, dignified, but at times sparkling icebergs were about us. We observed one, a monster ice mountain, whose top and sides were varied in form, including hill and dale. It was at least two hundred feet high. On this a company of us landed. The scenery to which we were treated from one of its hill-tops : IS': i» "\ ..M lii M d 228 Arctic Heroes. V-U 'tit II i ■ 1. In was beautiful. Below, the water was surging into the caves and grottoes at its base, sending up a murmuring sound of plaintive music; above us were wild, projecting crags on which the sea- birds screamed their harsh but joyous notes of freedom. A\'e Avere treated, by that curious operator in arctic views, refraction, to a fine panorama as we were, on the nth of July, slowly moving over an almost quiet sea. A st'^ip of horizon, resembling an extended plain — a true watery horizon — first appeared. Then above it was a horizon of re- fraction, with an aerial ocean margin, lined with structures ever varying in form. Great needles, obelisks of pure whiteness, cities in majestic pro- portions, but instantly passing into the chaotic forms of the wildest ruins, and buildings of archi- tectural grandeur, whose outlines we had just begun to xan, when the whole vanished. The excited imagination of :he inebriate could not create a more fantastic scene. Suddenly, as by a flash, they re-appeared, to dance, dazzle, and amaze for a moment, and then to vanish as swiftly. If the creations of refraction are the baseless fabrics of a vision, navigation in this ice-bound sea with our sturdy little vessels is a real thing. Let us try to show our readers how 7ae did it. We are now in a little space of clear water. Look beyond .his over the bows of our vessel. It is onf^ extended and almost boundless plain of solid ice. A little distance to the left is a huge iceberg rising above the icy plain like some hill > I ng into ig up a )ove us he sea- Dtes of •ator in I as we over an ambling n — first of re- ed with leedles, tic pro- chaotic f archi- ad just I. The lid not as by a i amaze baseless sbound 1 thing, it, water. vessel. )lain of a huge n)e hill Yankee Ice-Fighting. 229 from the level land of the shore. You see that narrow oi)ening in this field of ice, commencing just on our left. Its irregular course may remind you of the wandering streams through the mead- ows at home, as it follcvs for awhile the base of the berg, and then is lost to the sight in its ser- pentine windings. This is kno\vn among arctic navigators as a "lead." We propose to break away from the icy prison in which we have been h-^ld for some time by navigating that " lead " by what is called "conning." The sails are put in trim and the brig's head is directed co the open gap. Men are stationed at the ropes which con- trol the sails. Silence for a moment prevails as Ave wail for the concussion. The commander thunders his orders to the man at the helm, the sails, by a steady haul on the ropes, aid the vessel in the course the helm has given her, and she thrusts her nose into the gap. Away she goes banging her sides against the ice, crushing it with her bows, and making, it may be, a headway equal to a few times her length. Somebody in the rigging who is watching the " lead " exclaims " pshaw ! " as we bring up, all-stan ling, in a short turn of the " lead." P'or a time we scrape, scratch, and thump our way, until two great, solid ice- fields shut us in, and forbid our moving another foot until their sovereign pleasure is further com- municated. Some one exclaims, " eugh ! " and we all go quietly to supper. When we come on deck again we have been refreched by food and rest. We all have a mind * ,-3 t ' r . t ■ 'Ill 'I' vat n i ii ' 1 '!■.?, 5 ■ 1 ^.r ■ 1 : ^ : r Mi > ■ I :i:i Dan- of the pack. A more powerful telescope was brought up from below and directed toward ihe schoon- er, but it was not there! It was a trick of re- fraction ! The next day we sighted a ])olar bear, the first which had crossed our track. He was less than a half mile off, trotting leisurely, not deigning to notice us. Probably he held in low esteem all ships and the savage intruders upon bear territory which they contained. We proved that his 'ength was nine feet by measuring his tracks. His color, as compared with the white snow, seemed a deli- cate yellow ; his nose blue-black ; his broad, regu- larly arching haunches, resting upon ponderous legs, gave hinn the look of an elephant. Of course we gave chase to the bear, with guns in hand and murderous intent. The ice being weak in places, our zeal was far greater than our discretion. ^Ve did not get a shot at him in all the chase of three hours. Though we did not return with the })olar, we did return wetter if not wiser men, for several of us got repeated duck- ings. As to his polar majesty, he never once varied from his dignified, unconcerned walk. When we last saw him he was in the dim distance among hummocks of ice. A few days after this incident, as we were ^vaii^ i>p^, our men organized foot-races with the crew of the " Rescue." \\'e had fancy matches against time. Our best runner made his mile in seven minutes and eleven seconds. While our commander was punching the ice, as r^is ■" n mv' m t i _, -Mi-iXmBBBK mm BH / I 234 Arctic Heroes. 'ill * t < "3 '■■ I f ; » ■ . r ; I he stood upon a projecting point of the floe, it gave way and soused him in. He had some diffi- culty in getting out. I'he incident was serious in its liabilities, but as "all is well which ends well," especially with men in our line of business, we laughed at it when safe in the cabin. Freaks of At mo sp I i eric Rcfnxction. 235 f\ CHAPTER XXI. FREAKS OF ATMOSPHERIC REFRACTIOX. OOON nftcr our first experience in bear-hunt- »-J mg, a shout came down the cabin where we were sitting, "A bear alongside!" It proved to be a young bear, not more than two-thirds grown. He came quite near, and leisurely surveyed the bng as he raised himself upon his haunches and snuffed the air, as if (pierying what manner of animals we might be. We kept below the bul- warks watching his innocent gambols, and, we are almost ashamed to say, .seeking to reward his con- fidence with a bullet, He rubbed his nose against a hummock, snapped at the icicles, and rolled^ over and over. He Avas well within the range of our guns at one time, but just as we were about to fire he gamboled away, full of the enjoyment of life. We felt glad we had not fired, but, of course, we chased him, bent on taking his skin, not doubtin- our right to it-if we could get it. But the little rascal seemed to think that it belonged to himself, and he kept it uninjured. On the 28th of July we were in that famous water, Melville Bay, in which the whalers as well as explorers have always had a dreary voyaging. A thrilling incident gave us an emphatic ""hint oi what we might expect. We were among the -K ff^^lp 1^- ii h , 1 ,1 1 1 a Mi I i ■ i ,i - <■ ,« 1 'i .( ■ 1 k i f * i I tM . 2^,6 Arctic IIi:koi:s. floes, but hnd entered a narrow channel of clear ^vnter, which nj^peared to be a mile lon<,r. The ^vind was ahead, and we were engaged in our now well-tried ])usiness of warping; Init huge bergs, driven ])y the strong northern deep-sea current, were sailing i.n the very teeth of the breeze. One of them ke])t us company for some time, and, while we were enjoying the clear water of " the lead," puslied forward to get ahead of us, and thus shut us out of any further advantage of it. This exciting race was going on, we having the " Rescue " in tow, when we reached a point where, by warping round our opponent, we might be able to make sail and get rid of him. Three men were sent to plant the ice-anchor in liis side to hold the warp. The hole for it had been > Five days after tliis incident we recognized one of these bergs which were now racing witii us, a hundred miles on its northern voyage, still sailing against wind and surface ice. On the morning of the first of August our friends had a successful encounter with a bear. He was walking toward the brig, cautiously treading over weak ice. Having probably found it too rotten to "bear his heavy feet, he made a succession of plunges, coming each time nearer the vessel, break- ing the ice as he rose. He stared about as his head came through the ice, as if amazed, and he panted and shook the water from his shaggy coat like a Newfoundland dog. He seemed to have an intense curiosity, and his attempt to gratify it in comini.: near the strangers cost him his life. Several well-directed bullets struck him and he turned away, weak and bleeding. A\'ith much difficulty he regained the floe, but it was only to meet a bayonet thrust which killed him. Three days later three bears were seen on the ice which lav between us and the land. AVe were in a lead about three hundred yr.rds wide, and while we were getting ready the boats to give them chase, 'hey plunged into the water and came directly toward us. In two or three minutes they were within shot of the boat, coming on with their mouths open and showing their teeth, panting us if eager for the fight. The captain was the first to try his skill as a marksman, but his gun missed fire. The second officer. Midshipman Lovell, brought his gun up, lodged a ball in the base of '■i ft. r'SW ('",' I ..■■Vif 1^1 238 Arctic Heroes. V i i^i \ti , ^ .1 ' i i ■'] the brain of one of the animals, and killed him instantly. Dr. Kane reserved his fire for a better chance, which did not come. While we were secur- ing the dead bear the rest turned back, scrambled up the floe, and ran away. Just as we reached the deck of the "Advance " with our prize, the heavy floe upon the seaward side of us began to move in toward the shore ice. The two vessels were in the clear water between them. The projecting edge of the outside floe came in contact with the inward or shore ice, about midway l)etvveen the "Advance" and "Rescue." The assailing floe was nearly four feet thick and a mile in diameter. On the enormous mass cam j, with its millions of tons weight, striking the solio. margin of the land ice with a force which seemed sufikicnt to grind both to powder. But the land ice endured the concussion without flinching, while its assailant was first pressed together, then crowded up in great inclined planes, which rose until broken and toppled over in long lines of fragments. The immense cakes of ice, as they rose, seemed thrust into the air by an almost silent, mighty, and in- visible machinery. There was a terrific sublimity in all this w^hen seen at a safe distance. But when the attacking line neared our brig, bringing us between it and the unyielding land ice, the sublime was lost in the appalling. We expected her sides to be ripped, and, perhaps, crushed in, or the whole craft to be borne down by the pressure. After a moment's painful suspense the crisis came. The floes came , i hu\r\ Freaks of Atmospheric Refmetio?t. 239 together, not in a straight line along the whole length of our vessel at once, but made an acute angle at her bows, out of which she sli|)ped like a squeezed watermelon seed shot from your thumb and finger. Her hawser snapped like pack-thread, and away she shot backward into more sea room. The " Rescue " was tipped over so as almost to lay her masts on a line with the floe, and then placed on her keel again and lifted upon the ice. The rudders of both vessels were lifted from their places. The second day after this encounter with the " nip " the wind changed, the surface-current started the seaward ice off, the lead opened, nnd we sought a safer berth. A few days after the floes had entertained us by " nipping," refraction, our ever-welcome friend stepped forward with his entertainment. He was never more himself nor in a better condition to show his wonderful dramatic poAver, See there, just north of the sun ; a black ball floating in the air ! it is launched from his hand. What can it be } Perhaps a bird or a balloon. There ! its circumfer- ence shines, glistens, and changes its shape ! Now we know just what it is ; plainly it is a grand piano ! No, not quite so fast with your opinion ; it is an anvil ! Right this time ! It is an anvil big enough for the giants of the north, if there be any, to hammer out upon it the North Pole, or any other poles they may fancy. Poh ! it is no longer an anvil. It is narrowing in the center, and rounding off at the ends. It is a pair of huge dumb-bells. 1 i s% ti4 /- !l 240 Arctic Heroes, ■ i I '< 'K. I 'I ' Hi i : I ll'l-l 'lil>r V ■"■ with which the pliant gymnasts strengthen their- brawny arms for a turn at boxing I 'I'here, it has cliangcd again ! It is nothing but tlie bhick ball now. Our performer now becomes more sober, but not less skillful. He operates on a magnificent scale ; he has taken tlic wliole horizon. He blends the pearly sky and pearly water so that you cannot discern the line of separation I Our ship is in tlie hollow of a great s[)here- Icy shai>es of wonderful beauty and variety are floating all about us. Jiirds are seen flying both above and below. Our con- sort, the "Rescue," rests, in du[)licate, serenely in the sky ! On the next night, at ten o'clock, our performer again exhibited. The sun was nearly at its lower curve. Suddenly there are signs of combustion flar'ng all around him. Oreat volumes of b'ack smr ' arise, contracting and expanding in its up- ward .:ourse, and as it rolls off into si)acc black specks rise with it, expand, fall, and disappear! The rarified air above the whole waves and quivers with the heat. It is some mighty city in conflagra- tion ; some burning Chicago or Boston! No; it is only the jugglery of refraction ! We were now, August 15, near Cape York, the northern boundary of Melville Bay. The " Rescue." had lagged astern, though we were in clear water. ^Vhile we were leisurely looking around from our deck she gave us the signal of "men in sight." A boat was immediately laden with provisions and sent to the shore, for, as we were so far north, the Freaks of Atmospheric Refraction. 24 1 livers idea of human licings involunfaiily ((juncctccl itself with disaster. Hut two nieii were soon seen on the shore ice, gesticuhuing in the most ludicrous and violent manner, ihey were genuine specimens of the Esc^uimo. 'I'hougii living in this icy, bitter cold, and desolate region, they were as fat as the bears we had lately killed. They were jolly, laugh- ing fellows, full of sociability. 'I'hey were armed with a hari)Oon, lance, and air-bladder, and had been hunting seals. They had no kayak, and seemed unaccjuainted with that convenient article of their more southern relatives. They intimated that there were more of their i)e()|)le in a valley toward which they pointed. They had evidently seen ships before, and invited themselves aboard ; but the officer of the boat declined the invitation. They belonged, we concluded, to the wandering fishing and seal-catching Esquimo of this region whom John Ross, and, after him, the l''.nglish navi- gators term "Arctic Highlanders." A touching incident occurred near this place in 1830. The seamen of a whaler landed from their boat and walked to a group of huts. They ob- served as they approached the death-like stillness which pervaded the vicinity and the absence of recent tracks in the snow. They lifted the skin of the door-way and entered. There, around an oilless lamp, were the corpses of five human beings. The frosty finger of death had left them, save the sunken eyes and darkened lips, in the attitude and with the expression of life. The babe was frozen in the hood of the reindeer coat 'I >r tr.'i. I 1. u •It' .1 i ", it f i :m'-, t '! in: ■'!{l' '> 242 Arctic Heroes. which enveloped its mother, snd the dog was stark and stiff at tlie feet of its master. Several other huts exhibited the same melan- choly sights. As the implements for seal catch- ing lay in the tents, and Ps that animal abounds in the bays, and affords both food and fuel for these people, they must have been Si. itten by a preva- lent disease, or their supplies shut off by some ex- traordinary occurrence. A company from the " Advance " landed in a little cove near Cape York. Here we had an op- portunity of examining the "red snow " which we had seen on the cliffs during; our last ten miles' sail. Its color was a deep but not bright red. A kind of brick-dust lay upon its surface, and other portions of its coloring matter was evidently of a vegetable origin. It imparted to paper when drawn over it a cherry-red which faded into a brr wn. The snow resembled, with the impurities it contained, crushed preserved cranberries, and a handful thawed in a glass tumbler looked like muddy claret wine. There was near a beautiful little cove. On one side of it was a glacier which came down from its valhy birthplace above. One side of the glacier clung to the cliff, the other side which it presented to us was a solid, almost perpendicular, crystal wall ; its end descended into the sea. A .stream from the vaHey, which had worn a channel in the glacier, leaped, when it reached the edge of the glacier wall, infro tne sea below in a cascade of foam-?parkling water. !/.! Freaks of Atmospheric Refraction. 243 The side of the cove opposite to the glacier was watered by misty spray from the cascade, and was green with beautiful arctic mosses. It seemed a fairy spot in comparison to the barren sight of weeks past, aad was indeed a charming spot which we could not forget. Dr. Kane named it "Bessie's .ovc. The next day, while sailing leisurely along, we saw an indentation in the high, precipitous, rocky shore. Into tins we warped our vessel, so near that we stepi)ed out on the rocks as upon a wharf The sun was at il*? lowest curve, for it was the mid- night hour of four P.M. The cove at the base of its walls was in black shadows, but far above it was bathed in a sparkling sunlight. A torrent of water rushed down the sides, with which we filled our tanks fo; the trip across the North Water into which wc had now come. The slope into the cove at one place was cov- ered with terraces of rocky and icy fragments. Birds in myriads hovered about it, or settled down into its crevices. A party of our men were blazing away at them and bagging hundreds. Their nests were not all forsaken of their young, and fledglings were peering down upon us by thousands and opening their mouths for the food their moth •'■s were bringing them from the sea. Drawn by a wish to study the domestic habits of these arctic birds, Dr. Kane clambered ujj to one of their most populous colonies, -without duly considering how he might get down. As he as- cended the sharply inclined plane, with a walking T u^ ill f m 1 ' ■ ■■^;— ppwj—^ii^piwi wpHfW ' f i :t f > ) I » H' ^ i 244 Arctic Heroes. pole substituted tor his gun, the fragments re- ceded from under his feet, and rushed down with a thundering noise to the plain below. He stopped to take breath, and was startled to see every th'ng about him in motion. The entire surface seemed to be sliding down. The position was one of real danger. The masses, gathering swiftness as they descended, leaped over the terraces, and filled the air with fearful missiles. Some whizzed by his face, and others sliot Tver his head, and his walking- pole was jerked from his hand and buried in tlie rubbish. He commenced returning, fearing that the downward trip might be swifter than w is pleasant or safe. Seeing a ])rojecting rock not far from him, against which the sliding rubbish divided into two streams, he made a desperate jump and landed upon it. He here waited for the troubled fragments to adjust themselves. The scene around him was wonderfully original and arctic. The sun was " setting into sunrise " near the horizon, and the wiiolc' atmosphere "was pink with light." Auks and ivory gulls screeched with deafening clamor around him, sometimes flapping their wings almost in his face; dignified "burgo- masters " sat unmoved on the crags above, seem- ing '.o enjoy the embarrassment of the obtrusive stranger; while far below, their black forms con- trasting with tlie white snow, two ravens contended for a choice bit of garbage. Quiet being restored, the doctor descended safely, wiser concerning arctic hill-sides if not in the habits of arctic birds. Freaks .f Atmospheric Refraction. 24$ Its re- with a tof)ped f thing jcemed of real as they led the lis face, alking- i in the ng that an w iS Dck not rubbish asperate ited for s. The nal and e " near /as pink led with flapping " burgo- e, seem- btrusive ms con- ntended ascended if not in On the iStli of August we turned tlic [iows of our shii)s west, with the waves dancing past us and the l)rec/e in our sails. W'u had accom- plished the western passage, and were spanking along toward Lancaster Sound. The next morn- ing about eight o'clock the i)leasant news was brought to tlie ca])in from the deck that two ves- sels were following in our wake. We slackened sail and so did the " Rescue," and hove to near us. Soon the larger of the two vessels was along side, and her captain came on board. It was Penny with his s(|uadron — the " I.ady Franklin " and the " Sophia " — bound with us tc --earch for the lost. Such a greeting was exchanged as those only can give who are bound together by like toils and aims. When the " Franklin " started off, acain there came booming over the sea a hearty old En- glish hurra — "three cheers, hearty, with a will." Our boys "stood aloft," and gave back the 'greet- ing witli vociferous earnestness. At eight o'clock the same day we were in ' \n- caster Sound, groping our way through the fog, and staggering under a heavy sea and a tempest of wind. A day later, early in the morning, a vessel was reported ahead, tugging after her a small sailing craft. ^Ve shook out our reefs and scud before the gale, the sea dashing over us at every roll. \\'e soon came up with the stranger. It was the " Felix," Sir John Ross commander. with her little tender, the " Marv 'I'he hailin*' ofificer. in the midst of our talk, shouted. Vou li ','* \^j, it if) f and I are ahead of them all I " So it was, Penny w m m ^f Mi \i t . M s f '■ ; i I I i r 246 Arctic Heroes. was astern, and Captain Austin, with nis sailing sliips and steam proj)ellers, was liovcring about tlio mouth of the sound. • Soon Si/ John himself came on deck, and stood l)eside his hailing officer. He was a sipiare-built man, apparently, but a little stricken in years, and well al)le, as he was willing, to bear his jjart of the rough toil of arctic search, tie was in the very region where, seventeen years before, he was picked up, after four ; accessive winters spent in polar snows. The next morning we had passed the opening into Regent Inlet, and sighted Port Leopold, on its north-western side, ^\'e were anxiously locjk- ing for a " lead " into the harbor, for the ice beset it, when we saw a top-sail schooner working out to me'.c us. Her commander was soon on our deck. It was Lady Franklin's own searching vessel, the " Prince Albert * " The " Rescue" had gone to Ca})e Riley, at the eastern side of the entrance to Wellington Channel, and we pushed forward immediately to that point in company with the " Prince Albert." On arriv- ing there we learned that Lieutenant Griffin, of the " Rescue," had shared with the J-nglish steam- propeller squadron in the discovery of the evi- dence of Sir John Franklin's first winter encamp- ment. The commanders, Ross, Penny, and De Haven, soon met on board the " Felix " to ar- range i)lans of further search, and the greatest harmony of feeling prevailed. Our pan was to push up Wellington Channel. While these ofhcers i • sailing r about d stood rc-built irs, and t of the le very le was pent in Dpening lold, on ly look- :e beset ing out on our arching •, at the Jiannel, at point n arriv- iffin, of I steam- he evi- ncanip- and De to ar- [greatest was to oflicers Freaks of AtmospJicric Refraction. 247 were in council an excited messenger came run- ning over the ice with thrilling news. " (iraves! " he shouted. "Graves, sir! graves of Franklin's men ! " We all hurried off to see for ourselves. An account of these marks of Franklin's winter- quarters has been given by Lieutenant Osborne, of the propeller squadron, and we need not repeat them. The hint they gave us inspired our zeal to obtain further knowledge of his fate. At two o'clock in the morning of September 4 we were awakened by Captain De Haven to witness the rare appearance and movements of the ice. • We had seen the wonders of the floes, but this was the mobc wonderful. The thickness of some of the cakes of ice which had been raised upon the floes by their collision was fourteen feet ! They were piled in hummocks not seldom forty feet high ! We were fast to a great floe by three anchors. The wind was blowing a fresh breeze from the north, and huge ice rafts, with up-piled blocks, far above our heads, were scudding past us to the west, under the pro])elling power of the current. They created a decided sensation among U; as we stood watching them from our deck. There comes a monster thirty feet high ! Will he smash in our stern .'' No, he shies off so near that we are fanned by the wind of his crystal sails. There comes another whose projecting crags will certainly become entangled in our rigging and sweep away our masts. No, he too just touches us with his frosty fingers, as if forbidden to do more, and then swings off into the deeper current. ^f' ,1' m li 'i\ 'u^ fi 4* M I ji^ n M !l I' i! I u f r '^ 248 Arctic Heroes. A little ]-)rojection of the main floe into the chan- nel turns them aside as they a[)proach us. How plainly do we see in ihis arrangement the care over us of llim who made the sea, and directs all that is in it. While we were coasting during the day along the floe and sighting the western shore of Welling- ton Channel a bear attracted our attention. As exciting as such a sight always is, we could not stop to chase him. But he was very obliging. Instead of striking landward, he plunged into the water just ahead of us. Dr. Kane and one other of the officers brought tlieir guns to bear at a fair range and fired at the same moment. 0//e of the bullets went amiss, indicating its course by splash- ing in the water just ahead of its mark. The other killed the bear outriglit. The boats were got out, and he was brought alongside and with difficulty hoisted aboard. He was a monster, weighing, we estimated, sixteen hundred pounds. He measured nine feet from tip to tip, and his carcass was larger than that of an ordinary ox when fatted for the market. His build was solid, and the muscles of his arms and haunches fear- fully developed. The question was pleasantly raised Whose bullet hit ? It was found that the one which had done the murderous deed had entered the ear and lodged in the brain. This was weighed and ])roved to belong to Dr. Kane's gun. It was his first bear ! H-e skinned him on deck the next morning with the thermometer below zero. This Freaks of AtDiospJicric Refract ion. 249 ister, mds. his -y ox iolid, "car- 'hose had ear and s his next This skin is now in the rooms of the Academy of Nat- ural Science at Philadeli)hia. Our game was at this time two bears, three seals, a single goose, and a fair table allowance of smaller sea-fowl. The goose was killed by officer Murdaugh, on the wing, with a rifle. The " Res- cue " boasts of four bears, two hares, and a supply of smaller game. It must be recollected that our hunting was not systematically done, but was only incidental to our other absorbing business. On the eleventh of September all the searching vessels except Penny's were clinging by their anchors to the fast ice near (Griffith Island. The next day we had a fearful experience. The wind blew a gale, driving before it clouds of heavy snow. The " Rescue " snapped her hawsers and disappeared to the seaward, leaving two men, her boat, and her ice-anchors behind. The " Ad- vance " snapped her stern cable, lost her anchor and swung out, but s!ie fortunately held by the forward line. The English squadron i)arted some of their hawsers, and were in momentary danger of coming down upon us. The wind roared, and poured upon us its sleet and snow, and every thing about the vessel froze. To add to the tcrrible- ness of our situation, tlie main Hoe threatened to part, and carry us ;.way with the liberated ice, with our running rigging so ice-encumbered as to make the working of the vessel impossible. We are at sea, some distance from the shore, whose harbors are unknown to us, even if the wind and ice permitted us to seek one. We see signs of 16 \. 'v> li rx: ■uidu 1 - ^^ ■■\\ I ! IV] (•I ■:. Mi i i^'i ■I f I I f 250 Arctic Heroes. cheerful fires on board the English vessels. We yet have none. About noon the whole fleet, hav- ing knocked off the ice as best it could, got under way for Clriffith Island, from which we had drifted about fifteen miles. We were in anxious search for our lost consort. We were staggering under all sail, running for our lives, striking the ice with our seven and a half solid feet bows, with such fearful blows that our vessel quivered like a leaf. While thus struggling, we came in sight of the " Rescue " close under the island. We at once drove our hard-headed little brig into the inter- vening ice, determined to lay alongside of her. She nobly thumped her way through, the English following " the mad Yankees." No sooner had we thus opened a channel to the " Rescue " than orders were given by Captain De Haven to both vessels to bear away for home ! All regretted this, but so the home authorities had commanded. We were not to spend the winter in the ice unless under 7'cry extraordinary circum- stances such as were not now upon us. We parted with our fellow-explorers with sincere regret. Only courtesies and hearty good-will had been received from them, and many lasting friend- ships had been formed. Some of our officers pro- posed exchanging places with any of theirs who might desire to return home; but none such were found. Our captain tendered them a part of our supply of provisions, and a point on the shore was agreed upon on which, if we were able to land, we were to make a deposit. M n We hav- mdcr rifted carch under ^ with such a leaf, of the L once inter- of her. SngUsh 1 to the ain De home ! ies had inter in ircum- s. We sincere vill bad friend- ers pro- irs who ch were t of our ore was to hand, Freaks of Atuiosplicyic Refraction. 251 In a short time we had the " Rescue " in tow steering westward. As we were jKissing a curve of the coast soon after, the captain called Dr. Kane's attention to the shore-line six miles off. He looked, and saw the naked spars of two vessels. " Brigs," says Kane. "Without doul)t," rej^lies De Haven, Luth at once exclaimed, "Penny!" On taking a glass, the masts, yards, gaffs, every thing but the bo\('- sprit, were distinctly seen. Oflicer Dovell was called and saw tli^' *same. Murdaugh hurries up, half dressed, from the cabin, takes a good spyglass and looks. He sees a third vessel. 'I'he rest look, all see the third one and pronounce it the "Felix"— old Sir John Ross. We change our course, and run in to s[)eak with them. A fog settles aown between us, but still we keep on. The fog in a few moments clears away, there is only three miles between us and them. We look, there is not a vessel to be seen! We take a powerful glass, and see only some hummocks of ice ! We were " sold " again by that polar cheat, refraction. We were reluc- tant to accept the joke, and went musing and mur- muring away, saying : " How could we be so de- ceived ! " Soon after this the captain shouted down the cabin stairs: "Doctor, we are frozen u])I" Yes, we were Irozen up in mid-channel, at the mouth of the great Wellington ('hannel ! What now about our going home ! how about not wintering in the ice! ! il •jj : u i! m all % VX' r -;i i m 1 . .;,!-! . fi ■ M A r ' 1 .1 hv\ V IS > ■' ' 1 k( ; • 1 ■ ■ ji« ,:,\ Ml' , ; iiM '* ili; •' Wm ; .* ^f mk", ' } u ,_ , \'" ^'t : 252 Arctic Heroes. CHAPTER XXII. DE HAVEN'S WONDERFUL DRIFT. TillC ice-island wliich had thrown its frosty arms around our shi[)s as we were attempt- ing to ])ass the entrance of Wellington Channel lield them firmly. Up the channel northward it hurried with us. In vain we entreated and pro- tested that we desired to go ras/, not north ! Our island was fiercely assailed at times by heavy floes, now making their attacks on this side, then on that, and occasionally on both sides at once. At one time the ice near our ship, pressed by a fearful power, cracked ; its outer edge of fourteen inches of solid ice turned up and rose in great tables, high in the air, until by its weight it toppled over. This was followed by other tables, sliding up the broken fragments of the last, so forming heavy piles of ice rubbish, which after a while would sink into the sea. While thus the floes were toying with us, and at times seeming intent on crushing us, the current would occasionally swing us round through all the points of the compass, giving us quite a sail south, as if to flatter us with the hope of the homeward voyage, while yet we were making daily advance northward. The collision of the floes at this time gave us De llavcHs Wonderful Drift, 253 frosty 2m pt- annel ard it I pro- Our heavy ;, then once. d by a urteen great rht it ables, ist, so after a and at urrent all the south, lie ward dvance cave us n our first sight of a phenomenon of whiili other explorers have sjjoken. When iii the darkness of the niglU the great ice-tables were hurled upon each other, a phosphorescent light was emitted, like that of fire-fiies, or the "fox fire" of southern meadows. It was verv beautiful. At the end of our first week of drifting we had made sixty miles from the entrance of the channel, and s'till we headed northward. One day a black fox came near our vessel, nimbly skipping from hummock to hummock. He looked cheerful, but desolate, away, as he was, seven miles from the nearest land — a land look- ing as dreary as the ice-fields themselves. Our sailors set a trap for him. In the night we heard his bark, and were sure he would be their prize in the morning. But Dr. Kane, having killed a seal the day before, and pitying the little wanderer, had crept slyly out and put some of the offal, (}uite a pile, outside of the snare. Fox had a splendid supper without pay or penalty, and went on his way rejoicing. We try to be merry as we drift away into the unknown nor^h. The " Rescue " was all the while fixed in the ice near us. We began to think of the necessity of wintering thus bound in arctic fetters. The ice about our ships was adjusted to our con- venience. We began to put some tons of the coal from our hold. The boats were drawn about twenty paces from the bow, and all hands were at work getting ready the deck to be covered in by "a felt" we had brought for the purpose. M w % ^■4 ^ r* I '! n i|l! f r ii 1 : , :!»'! 1 t t i ; < ! (i 1 . < ' I' < I \ 4 » - " ■ %\ .- / I H t j i ' \-l ♦ ' E'* I* '.< ' » ^f i'» 1 .' ( t ■ . J M 11 ,1 i ; ! 11 : it ■ f n f ;, «,!. 260 Arctic Heroes. rubbed his muzzle deep into the frozen snow. In his death-march lie had twice stopped to lie down, marking each spot with ])Ools of blood. A poor little fox fell, too, before our sharp- shooters. We pitied the beasts, struggling to live in this waste, howling, arctic wilderness, but they were eaten most joyously. The effect of our isolated condition, and the ever present darkness, rendered more intense by a nightly, hazy obscurity, began to be apparent in our physical and moral condition. Our com- plexions were toned down to a peculiar waxy paleness. Sunken eyes, strangely clear, hollow cheeks and short breaths became general. Ap- ])etites changed, became capricious and slight. Many became mood), irrital)le, and imaginative. Dreams invested our sleep, and were fondly talked about when we were awake. Some, while in dreamland, had laden themselves with luscious water-melons with which to return on shipboard. Others had found Sir John Franklin in a beautiful cove, whose air was perfumed with blossoming orange trees. Our hard-fisted matter-of-fact boat- swain heard three strange groans out upon the ice. He was sure of it, though he could see noth- ing. The scurvy had touched several lightly, and they were put under careful and stringent medical treatment. Christmas came. We paraded our good things, of which we had some store. We joked, but did it badly ; we laughed incessantly, but our laugh- ing was bad, too ; we sung, but our songs were ^ now. In ic down, r sharp- 4 to live but they and the tense by )arent in ur com- iar waxy , hollow al. Ap- J slight. ginative. ly talked while in luscious lipboard. beautiful 3ssoming let boat- ipon the ;ee noth- htly, and medical d things, , but did r laugh- ngs were De Havoi's Wonderful Drift. 261 boisterously noisy, with neither time, tune, nor harmony. The dinner being a pretentious failure, the men tried a theater. It was on deck under our canopy. The acting luas funny, and we laughed. None knew their parts. The prompters could not read glibly enough to be of any service. The gentle- women were brawny, blundering men, dressed in calico. The intervals of the orchestra were played on a Jew's-harp by a comic fellow from the top of a lard cask. We had foot-races on the midnight ice. Nor were the kindly Christmas gifts forgotten. Dr. Kane found in his stocking in the morning a jackknife, a Jew's-harp, a piece of Castile-soap, and a string of beads. The effort exhibited in these performances to throw off the mental and moral, as well as physical distempers induced by darkness, cold, and dan- gers, was necessary, whether this was the best way to do it or not. The officers, with the su- perior resources of culture, needed them less than the men. In fact, in the cabin, in all these peril- ous, gloomy days, an honest courtesy toward one another was preserved, whatever of brooding home-thoughts and inward forebodings of evil were indulged. With the men it was different. The wild voices of the ice and wind ; the strange sounds which issued from the ship ; the sudden terrific ru})ture in the da'-kness, and without a})parent cause, of the hummcck. , <^he cracks, and the dark-rushing I, i ir m lift 1 u . f t i i _ 1 i ; . i' ' i^: 1 •■' f \ ' \ j it if / ■.' t • ' " ' ' 262 Arctic Heroes. water that filled them, and the wonder-working freaks of refraction, all stinuilatcd, sickened, and op}jressed their imagination — they were (or the forecastle a day and nightmare dream full of horrors ! We are now near the new year of 1851. We are in sight of Ca})e Warrender, the great entering landmark of the northern shores of Lancaster Sound. We are only a few hours of favorable sailing from Bafiin P)ay, and only twenty-four from Grc nland. We have averaged for ten days about five miles a day. We shall soon meet the cross current of the great bay as it strikes that which rushes out of the sound, and then will our situa- tion l)e more critical perhai)S than ever. Our trust is in Ciod. The new year, 185 1, came in gloomily in spite of an extra dinner and efforts to,be merry. By the middle of January we noticed the unmistakable evidence that we were in Bafiin ]^ay. Our knap- sacks, sledges, India-rultber boat, and general " traveling outfit," were in momentary readiness. We put the frozen bear meat and some barrels of bread on the floe for the emergency. But a sud- den rupture of the ice swept them all away. So after that we kept in readiness our stock of provis- ions intended for the sledges on deck. On the second of February the full disk of the sun appeared at a (juarter before eleven. Al- though he rose but to set, yet the stream of light which heralded his coming and that which lin- gered after his departure, as well as his pres- De Haven 's Wondtrful Drift. 263 ence, cheered every heart, and sent new iife through the sliii). \\'e kiu-w he wouhl tarry longer at each coming until he came to stay. Sirius, no jjale dog-star in these arctic regions, is resplendent in beauty. As it rises from its banked horizon the fun-loving refraction plays with it nightly freaks. Its colors are blue, crim- son, and white. Now its shape is oval, now hour- glass, and then square. It goes out into blank darkness, and then flashes into life. It plays the revolving light, as if it would attract and then evade our notice. Beautiful, solacing, hope-in- spiring Sirius ! Welcome observer of our dreary , \ voyage 1'o-day, the 25th of February, Dr. Kane caught, in his reindeer hood, a bug I Its sole sign of life was a feeble wriggle. Nothing which shares our principle of vitality, save a seal and a fox, has greeted us for months. The hardy sea-fowls are far away. Even the raven, that dismal croaker, dark bird of even arctic winter, clings to the dis- tant in-shore deserts. "The terns are gone, and so are the musquitoes ! There are no bugs in the blankets, no nits in the hair, no maggots in the cheese ! No specks of life glitter in the sunshine, no sounds of it float upon the air. We are without a single instinct of living thing ! " It was now early spring. We fflt that our icy bonds must soon be loosened, and that we should want both shii)S in the best possible repair. The *' Rescue " had been handled with especial sever- ity ; her stern-post was battered away, her bow- i 'I 1 t] m I* ;.J; m w I I "I , , . r M 'vl h ; I k'l' II |: t ».»' 264 Arctic Heroes. sprit knocked off, and her bottom roughly beaten. Our nic-n made out of her ice-b(id a dry dock ! They dui,^ a i)it about her within eighteen inches of the bottom of her keel, thus giving clear access to her bottom. In three days of hard and earnest work she was in good condition, ready for the word of command from her gallant captain. From this time onward hope grew stronger with us, with the increasing length of the day- light and the increasing signs of spring. The birds came and greeted us with their harsh but welcome notes. Seals thrust their heads through the ice and played in the pools of water, often to their sorrow, as the fatal bullet pierced them, but to the joy of our scurvy-smitten men. The curious narwhals puffed and snorted in the water oi)en- ings, (3ur old friend, the bear, whom we had so often loved, even unto his death, afforded us oc- casion for several exciting and perilous incidents. On the 24th of April the officers and crew of the "Rescue" were ordered to their own ship. She had been put in good internal trim, and the fires had blazed in her stoves for several days. June opened refreshingly. The air was warm, the breeze agreeable. The snow-birds in increas- ing numbers visited our deck, and delighted us with their sweet jargon. They are confiding little creatures, approaching our very feet. Open water is in view from the top of a high hummock, and is rapidly coming nearer. On the 5th the long-waited-for break up came. A grand swell of the sea under the ice caused it Dc llavcii s ll'outi.ifii/ Pi iff. 265 to rise and fall in jj,rcal waves. Tlie disruption ( ainc suddcnl)', and with tciTifM' force. It shat- tered our i( e-raft as window-ghiss was shattered by the careless halls of our boyhocxl. But a heavy fragnient clunL^ to our stern for three days, in which it was cradled, holding it several feet out of water, and keeping our deck in its old inclined plane. We thrust at it, drilled and sawed it, until at last it sli[)i)ed awa\', and we were on an even keel I .l'\)r five days frc^ni the disrui)tion we fought our way slowly through hea\'y floating ice. ( )n the lolli, with a great sea, a press of sail, and a spanking bree/e, we bore away for (ireenland. The ne.Kt morning its shores were in sight. Mow wonderful had been our esca})e from fatal accidents at the moment of breaking uj). Dr. Kane had been in the haliit of taking long and solitary walks ui)t)n the ice, miles from the ship. He had greased his boots for a walk a few hours before the change, and would have been off but for an absorbing interest in a bo(jk he was reading. The commander of the " Rescue " was on board the " Advance " when the shock which unfettered us came. He rushed homeward, leaping the ice- cracks, Avhich opened immediately behind him in impassable chasms, reached his deck safely, and waved us an adieu. How wonderful, too, had been our drift I con- tinuing throuiih nearlv nine months of time, and more than a thousand nr Ics O f distance I \'et we were safe, and, though scurvy-smitten, ready to renew the fight, along the western coast of Green- 17 ill 111'' I;'- 13 ^^1 ■ ^^ I I ■ i w :m 266 Arctic IIlkuks. land — the old, |)erilous track — int(i tlic north water, throuj^h Lancaster Sound and I^arrow ^ Strait, u\) ^A'ellington Channel, and thus renew and finish the search for Franklin! Ml this we at- tempted to do ! We fouL;;ht ice and cold again until August 19, reaching North Haftin Bay. Here, cri))pled, scurvy-ridden, and haflled at every turn, tlie game of another Wellington Channel search jjlayed out I We could honorably show the white feather and turn toward New York, where we arrived September 30, 1H51, and were welcomed on the pier by our noble friend, Henry Grinnell. I i! "i I ■ » * '« ,1 it 1 ■ ■ si i ■ ' i ,:{ f ?" . 1* ■, ! * ii ■J ■ 1» TJi€ North-ivest Passiii^c Discovered. 267 'k CHAPIKR XXIII. TllK NORTH-\Vi:ST PASSAGE DISCOVKKKD. T\\\\ Iln^^lish fleet, whose career we have noticed, saihng under Austin, Sir Jolin Ross, and Penny, returned home, as we have seen, the same fall in which l)e Haven reached New Vork. iJut other explorers were still in the arctic ice. Let us glance at their history. The well-tried ami s])lendidly eciuipped shii)s, " Enterprise "and '* Investigator," were di>pat( hcd to Bering Strait, starting January 10, 1S50. It was commanded by Captain Richard Collinson, in the "Enterprise," Cajjtaiii Robert M'Clurc commanding in the "Investigator." j'hey were commissioned to find Sir John Franklin, and, by sailing from the I'acific easterly to the Atlantic, to prove the north-west i)assage. The ships were separated befo e reaching liering Strait, and did not again meet. We shall give the story of M'Clure, as his voyage was one of deejjly inter- esting results. It will be recollected that no ship had sailed far into the ice from this point. Ihit boat and sledge parties from various points had explored great distances along the coast. M'Clure met the "Plover" at the edge of the ice-field, which had been stationed there with supplies; he also fell \\\ % '■.is :^^. ■%, 'It u f ■ t , 1 I : ! ■ 1 26S Arctic 11i.koi:s. with the " ITcrahl," \vlii chief was immensely i)leased with some gaudy gifts. Connt'cting his good luck with Mr. Micr- chiii!''. he endeavored to bribe him to make his home among them. To succeed in this he brouglit forward a blooming young daughter, and offered her in marriage. He even jjrondsed to throw in, to enlumce the bargain, a tent and *' fixings." He was most crestfallen because his offer was refused. IJy the usual sawing, smashing, dodging in and out of leads, going back and then forward, Caj)- tain M'C'lure found, by observations taken on the ninth of September, that he was only sixty mile:, from a ])oint in iJarrow Strait to which several explorers liad sailed from Lancaster Sound. He writes; "Can it be ])ossible that this water com- municates with barrow Strait, and shall jirove the long-sought north-west passage! Can it be that so humble a creature as I am will l)e penniited to ])erform what has baffled the letUed and wise for hundreds of years! IJnt all j)raise be ascribed unto Him who has conducted us so far in safety! ris ways are not our wa\s, nor ;hc means he uses within our comprehension. T'le wisdom of the world is foolishness with Him." They were now in Prince of Wales Strait, and, on the sixteenth, were within thirty miles of open sea. through whic Ii they hoped to dash, and soon reacli the familiar waters of Lancaster Sound, Baffin Hay. the Atlantic, and the ]''.nglish ("hr.nnel, where, with " north-west passage accomphshed " inscribed on their tla;.', \\tMltli and fame awaited them ! IMease do, your Majesty of the Ice Seep- f : gaudy r. Micr- lake his brought offered irow in, s." He refused. in and "d, Ca])- i on the tv mile:, se\ eral id. He jr coni- •ove tlie lie that litted to wise for is( ribed safety! he uses of the lit, :nul, of ojjen nd soon Sound, 'hr.nnel, .hshed " awaited 2 Seep- Tlie XortJi-ivcst Passage Discovered. 27 1 ter. grant us the small favor of a few weeks of cdear sailing! lUit his majesty waved his scepter in grim defiance, closed the leads, chained the " Investigator " to an icy raft, and set her back twenty-four miles in three Hays ! Here, after harassing anxiety, many nii)s, frequent threats of sinking and crushing, the "Investigator" was fast \\-\ the tloe for winter. On the twenty-sixth of October M 'dure made a sledge journey, with a i)arty of his men, toward Melville Island. After much toil and the usual perils the water was d scovered, from the top of a hill six hundred feet above the sea, whic:h washed its shores. He had seen ihe nonh-west jjassage. From a point of land u[)on which he was looking, Parry, th.irty years before, had sailed home tnrough Ikifti'i Bay. In returning M'Clure came near i)erishing. Having seen some bearings ahead from which he felt confident he could make the ship, he started off ahead of his men, thinking to get ready for them a good supper on their arrival. When within six miles of the ship night shut in, at the same time a mist obscured every thing, which was fol- lowed liy a fierce storm of blinding snow. He climbed upon a hummock of ice whose elevated flat top would give, he thought, a good position to see the lights of his men if they passed, or of the ship, if the mist cleared away. .After waiting an hour he saw the glare through the mist of a blue light. He fired to attract attention. Waiting a little and perceiving no signs of approaching men. '! ■■ I ^«i!i yi: : ^ r i '1 in m r' ' 1 i ' 1 2/2 Arctic Hkroes, he fired his only remaining charge of powder. He listened, hoi)ing the shij) would answer, but no cheering res])()nse broke the gloom. Once more the blue light of the sledge j)arty dimly flashed through the mist, nf)w at a grt^ater distance, and then his hope from them vanished. Two more hours passed ; he then, in fumbling in his ))Ocket found a single lucifcr match. With this he en- deavored to see the fice ol" his pocket-compass, but it fizzed out and left him in total darkness. It was half-jKist eight o'clock and there were eleven more hours ot darkness; the cold was 15° below zero, l)ears were jjrowling about, and he was without a charge for his gun. lie hoped that the sledge ])arty would reach the ship, and, finding he had not come in, search would be made and help arri\e. lie walkeel to and ivo up )n the hummock until he t!H)ught it was about eleven o'clock, and tiien that hope fled. Slipping down from his slab ot' ice he landed under its lee in a bed of soft, drv snow. I'eing thoroughly tired, he fell asleep nnd slept soundlv. it was a sleej) like that into which man\' under such ( ircumstances ha\e fiUen, to be followed b\ the sleep (jf death. I'.ut MTlure awoke retVeshed, nnd opened his eyes upon a skv glittering wiih stars and illuminated with the aurora borealis. He could see no shij), and so he stumbled about among the hummocks for several more hours. When the daylight ap- pe ared he had the mortification to see that ht W^ passed near the ship in the night, and walked awav from it nearlv four miles. were sluj), nocks The North-west Passage Discovered. 273 Returnin£i, he reached the '' Imesiicrator " wcarv and hungry, but not otherwise the worse for a night in tlie snow in 73 ' north hititude. The sledge arrived a few hours hiter all right. While M'Clure was absent, his men left with the shi') had been grandly successful in hunting. An attack on a herd of musk-oxen had brought down three bulls, a cow, and a calf. These gave tweh e hundred and ninety-six pounds of solid meat. 'I'he land explorers dcnvn the Mackei/.ie, of an earlier date, esteemed musk-o\ an offense to the stomach as well as the nose. l!ut i)rol)al)ly they were not so hungry for fresh meat as was M'C'Jure's men. When the spring of 1851 ranu\ wide ranges of Country, both sea and land, were >urvtjyed by sledge-parties. They ga\e o(ion fur many in- cidents of great peril aiid wonderful deli\ eraiue, which we cannot tlelail. While one parly were hunting and ( ampii g in .1 tent, a hunter relumed tired and chilled to within a rcjd or iwo of the tent door. Here he was found, eserv muscle riiiid as he lay stretched upon ihe snow, his mouth open, and his eyes set in his head, but for the providential going out of one of the occupants of the tent, he would have been, in a ^hort time, dead. Faithful and judii:ious trealment brought him to life. He said that though he remembers seeing the tent door, he was so irresistibly im- pelled to sleej) that lie lay down to indulge in a nap. At another time a negro having wounded a • I, 11* n^ Ml- 1 ■» Mi ( : i 1 ' 4 1 W t . » t !^ U I J i 1 1 i • t 1 ■' ■ i 1, 1. i) -/4 Akctic Heroes. deer, followed i'. to a great distanc-: In returii- ing he fell down exhausted and sleepy. No en- treaties nor shakings of Sergeant Woon, who ac- tomi)anied him, could excite the least ambition to get u]j and walk. Thfuigh the negro was a large, heavy man, Woon strajjped his gun, with which he dare n(jt i)art, to his back, took his arms over his shoulder and heroically started for the ships, many miles distance. At times he obtained relief by sliding his load ahead down the hummocks. He dare not leave him a moment as wolves were prowling around. When within a mile of the ship he became utterly exhausted, and unable to carry him another stej). Laying down the poor fellow, he hastened to the vessel and obtained hel[). The man was safely borne to the care of the surgeon, under whose treatment he was in a few days all right. This Sergeant Woon of the marines was a brave, self-possessed hunter. Heing out on one occasion pursuing a wounded deer, he was suddenly con fronted by two musk-bulls. Like all kine of thci'* sex they were fuU of fight, but would have been content perha[)s to be let alone. Ihit Woon, though he had but om.- bullet, put it into one of thein. Wounded antl maddened, he turned upon liis assailant. .As he ai)proached he received the " worm " from the sergeant's gun. This caused a pause, whicli he improved by reloading and using the iron ramrod for a missile. The l;uii by this time was within a few feet of his foe, with his nose to the ground, out of whicl; poured a stream of blood, ,f TJic Xurth-wcst Passage Discovered. 2/S to return in /lis way the sergeant's complimentary salutations. But the ramrod was too quick and too much for him. It entered behind his left shoulder, passed through his heart, and came out at the right Hank. The sergeant returned to the ship and reported venison and beef in temporary sto.age upon the ice for the ship's use. ft was late in the summer of 185 1 before the " Investigator's " ice-fetters were loosened, and then, instead of sailing north, she was treated to an ice-bound drift twenty-five miles south. (liv- ing u]> the hope of getting to Melville Island through the channel in which ihey had wintered, M'Clure sailed south, around IJank Land, u[) its western side, and, by hard fighting and nipi)ing, sailed round its northern extremity into Melville Strait, thus actually reaching tht water which made the navigable highway home by the eastern route. The oi)en water of this highway was within the range of a moderate sledge-journey. Of all arctic tantalizing that whicli this expedition now suffered seemed to be the most exciuisitc. The prize was lying at their feet — a prize sought for more than tvvo hundred years but not found — while their hands were ])inioned behind them ! M'Clure, seeing his vessel immovably frozen in, prepared for winter, and, thankful to be alive, call'^d the bay in which they were detained the Biy of Mercy. The expetlition was put upon short rjtiuns, in view of ?. probable stay in the ice a third winter. 1I«~. v.»««.V^ ¥ M I 276 Arctic Heroes. '•11 < , t f>1 I ■' I m Hut game abounded, musk-ox, deer, foxes, and wolves I'-jing plenty. The wolves in the lf)ng dark nights, impelled by hunger, came around the ship and made the hideous night more hitleous bv their howlings. Ravens audaciously made the fan;ily of the strangers their home. They croaked in the rigging, and came under the covering of the ui)per deck. One shrewd fellow tricked a dog out of his meal. He lighted on deck Ijehind him, and, of course, canine left his bone to drive him away. Raven hop|)ed back a few yards at a time and thus enticed the dog some distance away, when he flew back, and gobbled down his dinner before he could return. This became a staple trick of the ravens until the dogs began to " see through it." So bold did the wolves become that the men told the story of the s])ortsmen i)ulling at one end of the slain deer and the wolves at the other I In Ai)ril, 1S52, M'Clure made a sledge-journey to Winter Harbor, on Melville Island, the winter- ([uarters of Parry in his famous voyage when this region was first made known to the world. M'Clure here found a cairn, under which Jaeuten- ant M'C'lintock had de])osited a notice of his visit the ))revious summer when on a sledge-journey from Austin's steam squadron, which mc ha\e noticed. M'Clure left under the same c ;iirn an account of his visit and present whereabouts. On returning to the shi[) they were glad to learn that large additions had been made by the hunter* to their slm k of provi^,ions, lUit the f Tiic Sorth-i^'cst Passa[::c Discovered. ■t — -t -/ / f! spring and summer brought no relaxing of the grip of the Ice K.'ng. A third winter in the 15. ly of Mercy became a sure experience, anouns, silver tal)le-t'«irks, and other tal)le plate were obtained. Some of these were engraved with Franklin's name ; others with the names of liis officers. In some cases the names of the ships, *' Erebus " or " Terror," were added. Dr. Rae immediately hastened to England. The iiXt?. of Sir John Franklin and his entire ex- pedition was regarded as decided, and Dr. Rae and his men received the offered reward of fifty thousand dollars as the first discoverers of the sad fact. The English Government considered it morally impossible that any one of the expedition should be alive, and declined to peril the lives of other brave met/, by encouraging further search. Ikit Lady F'ranklin devoted all her available remain- in.^ fortune for one more search to be directed to : k ill \ ■• it i i I:} I'fJ i3 4r tu , » t. ? i ' ■ I*. 'I; i 204 Arctic Heroes. the very region named by the Esquimo. Others came forward to aid in the expense. A steam- propeller yacht of one hundred and seventy tons was purchased, named the " Fox " — a small craft, indeed, to go unattended on such an errand. But love gave the vessel wings and courage. She was commanded by our good friend. Captain M'Clin- tock. The under officers and crew were picked men. Carl Petersen, whom we have met in Sir John Ross' last expedition, a tried man and apt interpreter of F^squimo talk, was secured from Denmark, his native land. The yacht was well stocked with provisions and scientific instruments. The " Fox," having reached the Greenland coast, touched at a Danish settlement, where ad- ditional coal, furs, and some other articles for an arctic winter were obtained. Dogs and dog- sledges were also added to their outfit. An Es- quimo dog-driver, by the name of Christian, volunteered his services, was taken on board, was washed, cropped, and dressed in sailor clothes, after which he strutted about among the men with great satisfaction. There was a hand-organ on board, with which he was greatly delighted. He proved very useful in the management of the dogs, and in teaching that art to the officers. These dogs exhibited the characteristics of their race, sometimes to the amusement, but often to the sore vexation, of their managers. There was one of the pack named Harness Jack. Sledge- dogs are said to eat every thing except fox and raven, but Harness Jack gobbled down a raven Others steam- ity tons .11 craft, d. But 'She was M'Clin- : picked t in Sir and apt id from vas well •umcnts. eenland liere ad- :s for an id dog- An Es- hristian, ard, was clothes, en with rgan on ;d. He le dogs, of their Dften to ere was Sledge- fox and a raven Sir yoJm Franklin's Fate. 295 with a gusto. He had a notion to wear his har- ness continually. If when he had been off in the sledge an attempt was made to take it off, he showed his teeth most decidedly. Jack was a favorite among the sailors and a tyrant among his kind. There came one day to another dog a whole family of little ones. Her kennel was an empty barrel laid on it? side for that purpose. Harness Jack mounted the barrel, and though most uncomfortably situated, stood watch over the heljjlcss brood night and day. But for him the mother would have been bereft of her children, for Esquimo dogs have the amiable pro- pensity of eating young puppies. It is not at all certain that if Jack had not been well fed for his disinterested service, he would not himself have indulged in the luxury of tender young dogs for breakfast. We hope v;e do not wrong him by the thought. On one occasion an officer attempted to kick Jack for his too great familiarity, and accidentally sent his seal-skin slipper from his foot after him. Jack picked up the slipper, scampered away to a hiding-])lace, and gulped it down his throat in a twinkling. The " Fox," of course, tried the terrible passage of Melville Bay, to reach the western shore through the north water. The distance across this bay is one hundred and seventy miles. They had made one hundred and twenty of it in the early part of September, 1857. A few days later a terrific gale came on and broke up the floe. From this time ■m .if I, )] ^ i n ii #S! ;l h i 5 ''. . * ■ / ■ i^ V . )• i' I 296 Arctic Heroes. our little craft was made a plaything by the winds and currents, they sending it whither they pleased, only being seldom pleased to carry it in the direc- tion its captain desired to go. It was the old game, played with De Haven and others. The *' Fox " did not get rid of the ice by which it was firmly held until late in April, 1858 ! During ihis unwilling voyaging it drifted out of Melville into Baffin Bay, and southward through Davis Strait, and out into the Atlantic Ocean, a distance of thirteen hundred and eighty-five miles I The winter which was thus spent in the villain- ous pack was attended by many perils but no serious incident. The sailors contrived to get some merriment out of Guy Fawkes' day, and much healthful amusement, and as well as sub- stantial profit, out of seal and bear shooting. Nothing daunted by this worse than loss of one entire year. Captain M'Clintock turned about and tried again. This time he succeeded, and on the sixteenth of July was in Lancaster Sound. He steamed into Barrow Strait to the old station at Beechey Island. From this he continued west, and then south, into what may be found on the map as Peel Sound, between North Somerset and Prince of Wales' Island. Keeping near the coast, he attempted to push through this long, narrow, and continually narrowing sound as he went south, which opens into a broader water which washes the shores on which Dr. Rae's Esquimo had seen the wrecked white men. lUit twenty-five miles was all the southing the ice would allow him to make. Sir yoJm Franklin 's Fate. 297 le winds pleased, le direc- tive old i. The h it was During Melville 1 Davis distance : villain- but no to get ay, and as sub- s of one •out and i on the id. He at ion at ?d west, I on the rset and le coast, narrow, It south, I washes lad seen liles was :o make. Going back into Barrow Strait, the " Fox " steamed down Prince Regent Inlet on the east side of North Somerset. On the extreme south of this land is a strait, twenty miles long and one wide, called Bellot Strait. M'Clintock had been on this strait nine years before when with Captain James Ross, but it was yet but little known. Captain M'Clintock hoped with trembling to sail through it into the southern part of Peel Sound, and so get round the solid ice which had stopped him on the west side of North Somerset. He did push into it, and made half the passage through. He then fell into the grip of the pack and was drifted back entirely out of it. Again he went in, and again was driven out. Five times did the persevering " Fox " push its pugnacious nose into Bellot Strait, and the fifth time it pushed through ! They found a snug creek which they named Port Kennedy, and went into winter-quarters. Bellot Strait divides North Somerset from a broad land called Boothia Felix. South-east of Boothia and about one hundred and fifty miles from M'Clintock 's present wintering-place is King William Island. This last was the island where Rae's Esquimo obtained their Sir John Franklin relics. Opposite the winter harbor, Port Kennedy, is the southern shore of Prince of Wales Island. No sooner were the winter comforts secured, than the wide-awake M'Clintock began to prepare for sledging in the spring on a large scale. Three parties, with dog-sledges, each of four men, were to be sent out. The first, under the captain him- 19 i jij. ■',! I'i ,1 I . t; , • I I 298 Arctic Heroes. self, accompanied by Petersen the interpreter, was to examine the shores of Kin'g William Island, and push forward to the month of the Great P'ish River. The second, under Lieutenant Hobson, was to survey the west coast of T3oothia. The third, under officer Young, was to strike across the sound to Prince of Wales Island, and follow its shore along its southern, and a considerable dis- tance up its western, line. The winter passed away with its full share of arctic comforts and ])leasures. The captain thought that the greatest addition to pleasures which could well be conceived would be a well- filled letter-bag! One sad event occurred. The engineer died suddenly of apoplexy. There was no one in the vessel competent to take his place. The sledge parties were off at the early day of March 3, 1859, while yet winter, and ice, and storms ruled the days. The captain soon fell in with the natives, many of whom had relics of the lost "Erebus" and ''Terror." They had not seen either the ships or the wrecked men from whom they came, but the account they gave of both agreed perfectly v/ith the stories told Dr. Rae. Having obtained this information, M'Clintock returned to the " Fox." The other parties had come in. These were only preparatory trips. The three great journeys commenced the second of April. M'Clintock and Hobson traveled together until they came over against Cape Felix, the north Sir yoJiii Fraukliti 's Fate. 299 point of King William Island. The natives spoke of the shifts being wrecked on the west side of this island, one sinking and the other drifting ashore, the latter being the source of the relics they possessed. The men, they said, went away toward the Great River, and the next year their bones were found scattered along the way. Hobson hastened on to the alleged locality of the wreck. The captain examined the east shore of this great island, and then went over to the mainland and made diligent search about the mouth of the Great Fish River. Returning, he led his party up the western shore of King Will- iam Island, along the very track which Franklin's retreating men must have passed. The sledges kept on the ice, and some of the party walked on the shore, carefully examining every trace. While Captain M'Clintock was walking on a gravel ridge, w^hich the winds kept in a measure bare of snow, he came upon a human skeleton. Ii vvas partly exposed, with a few fragments of clothes lying near. The perfectly bleached skeleton was lying upon its face. The limbs and smaller bones were either dissevered, or gnawed away by small an- imals. A careful examination of the ground was made, and more pieces of clothing, a pocket-book, a clothes-brush, pocket-comb, a neck-handker- chief with a loose bow-knot, a blue jacket, and a pilot cloth great-coat with plain-covered buttons. All these articles, with the style of dress, showed that the deceased was a steward's or officer's serv- ant. He had taken the gravel ridge for easier t i • ! 1 1 1 ■ i V :l^: y^ U ^M i 300 Arctic Heroes. travel, fallen on his face and died. It reminded the captain of the remark of an old Esciiiimo woman who had seen the escaping party : " They fell down and died as they walked away." Going on a little farther, M'Clintock found a cairn put up by Lieutenant Hobson. He had been as far south as this si)ot, and returned north only six days before. He had left a note for M'Clintock whi-ch gave important information. He had not found the wreck nor seen any natives, but he had found a record left by Franklin's party. This lifted in part the vail which had hid the secret of their fate for so many years. Hobson had found it at Point Victory, on the north-west coast of this island — King William Island. The record paper was a printed form supplied to all the arctic ships, and was soldered up in a thin tin cylinder. The writing was upon the margin and read as follows : — "Twenty-eighth of May, 1847. — H. M. ships ' Erebus ' and ' Terror ' wintered in the ice in lat. 70° 5' N., long. 98" 23' W. "Having wintered in 1845-6 at Beechey Island in lat. 74° 43' 28" N., long. 91° 39' 15" W., after hav- ing ascended Wellington Channel to lat. 77° and returned by the west side of Cornwallis Island. " Sir John Franklin comma ding the expedition. " All well. " Party consisting of two officers and six men left the ships on Monday, tvventy-fourth of May, 1847. ^^ G. M. Gore, Zieu^e/ia/it. " Charles F. Des Vceux, Mate.'* Sir JoJin Franklin 's Fate. 30 r men May, Thus far Franklin's expedition was one of al- most unexampled success. From the time they were last seen, by the whaler, in Baffin Bay, July 1843, they had made the passage of Lancaster Sound and Barrow Strait, had pushed up Welling- ton Channel a hundred and fifty miles to the highest latitude ever attained, returned through an unexplored channel west of Cornwallis Island, and wintered at Beechey Island, Then they had sailed south to their present position, and spent, in comfort and health, a second winter. They had sailed through five hundred miles of pre- viously unexplored waters. They were now within ninety miles of the known waters leading out through Bering Strait to the Atlantic and dear old England ! The north-west passage must have appeared to Franklin as almost certainly known to him, and to be easily demonstrated by a boat journey, if not by his ships themselves. But how soon was all changed ! The record we have just noticed, written by officer Gore in May, 1847, was taken out in April, 1848, and, by another hand, the f^lowing addition made on the margin : — ''April 25, 1848, — H, M. ships 'Terror' and ' Erebus ' were deserted on the twenty-second of April, five leagues N, N, W. of this, having been beset since the twelfth of September, 1846. The officers and crews, one hundred and five souls, under the command of Captain F. R. M. Crozier, landed here in lat. 69° 37' 42" N., and long. 98° 41' W. Sir John Franklin died on the eleventh of June, 1847 ; and the total loss by death in the m^ 302 Arctic Heroes. ^ n I expedition has been to this date nine officers and fifteen men. (Signed) F. R. M. Crozier, Captain and Senior Ojjlcer. (Signed) James Fitzjames, Captain H. M. S. Erclun, and start (on) to-morrow, 26, for Back's Fish River." « A small additional note on the margin states the fact that the document had been removed to its present place of deposit, four miles, from the place where "the late Commander Gore had put it." Gore himself then was dead, and only two weeks after he had written "All well," his noble commander, Franklin, ended his eminent life. Captain M'Clintock now made the best speed possible on the track of Hobson. After passing the extreme west point of King William Land, which they named Cape Crozier, they came upon a boat. This Hobson had seen, and left a note stating the fact. This boat, its contents and surroundings, con- stituted the saddest relic yet seen. Large quantities of damaged clothing was scattered about in it, but no record, pocket-book, memorandum, nor journal of any kind, was found ; no name, even, was found on any article of clothing. The boat was swei)t and examined in every crevice. The boat was of light but strong material, and rested upon a stout-built sledge. It had been Sir yoJin Frank'lin \s Fate. videiulv equii)i)cd in every particular for lesijcrarc c.\r)edition ui) the Great Fish River. 303 the evideiuh desj)erare c.\i)etlition up 'i'hc most impressive relic of the boat was two skeletons : one of a young man, the other that of a strongly made man of midd'e age. They were much broken, and the skulls were entirely missing. Wolves had evidently visited the boat. Near them were two double-barreled guns and five watches. A large quantity of silverware, with names of owners engraved on them, with a great variety of such valuables, were found. The Esquimo had not been here. No graves nor other skeletons were found in the vicinity. The boat's bow was directed toward the shi[)s, back to which her men were evidently drag- ging her. This may account for only two skele- tons, and the small quantity of food found — a lit- tle tea, forty pounds of chocolate, and a small quantity of pemmican. The rest of them may have gone forward to the ships, sixty-five miles, intend- ing to retuvn. M'Clintock, after the most complete search, which did not add any material item to his infor- mation, returned to his ship. The sledge excur- sions were all ended late in July. Young had made valuable discoveries, but had seen no traces of Franklin. Both Young and Hobson were much broken in health, and the commander was admon- ished if he would save his men and vessel he must improve the earliest opportunity of getting away. On the third of August they moved a few miles; on the tenth they got up steam, the cap- U!i m 1 1 H i I'l ' i If ! 3^4 Arctic Heroes. tain, by the aid of the firemen, contriving to man- age the engine, and made good headway ; on the twenty-eighth they were at a Danish port in Green- land, and on the twenty-first of September Cap- tain M'Clintock was in London. Honor and reward awaited the officers and crew of the brave little "Fox." The relics were de- posited in the United Service Institution. The. fate of Franklin and his men was discovered. If money, bravery, and good-will could have saved them, our last chapter would have read, Franklin saved ! THE END. .1 !,i I i ' ,. ! \) ] 1ip Mh fur IJai PUBLISHED BY NELSON & PHILLIPS, e06 BROADWAY, N. V. IViiltam the Taciturn. Translated by J. P. Lacroix. From the French of L. Adelous. Two Illu&tnitionB |1 aS Thomas Chalmers. A Biographical Study. By Jamks Dodd. Large 16mo 1 bO IVon/ of God Opened. By B. K. Peirce. 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