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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols ^^- signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifid "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul ciichA, il est filmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 BEOOLLEOTIONS ov ROME AND OTHER PLACES. a CO / c. B RC O J^ L. KOT 1 OiSr S KOMK AM) OTITKK I'lVl'tS. I o z E " ui u ffl ;i o UJ X •■ < i I FPOni OP THE VA 1 (LAIN COUNriL 18fi!)-7(). A! I"0 HIS \'A?--- . ■ua A.Nji VVt,. ^ o r o u t <> : ilCJNTER, KOSE &, CO. 1888. notrl dame high school, OTTAWA vj*/*lfwj -m^'^t^ - c KKOOLLECTIOlSrS 09 ROME AND OTHER PLACES. 9 < 8 6 Q *- - HUNTER, ROSE & CO. .d88. NOTRE DAME HIGH SCHOOL, OTTAWA 1133. Entered according to the Act of I'Hrliaiueiit of Canada, in the ytai ot Our Lord, one thoiiiand tight hundred and eiglity-eight, by i{ev. T. J. MaoCartht, at the Department of Agriculture, I ! . I INTRODUCTION. His Lordship the Right Reverend E. J. Horan, Bishop of Kingston, having been summoned by the Sovereign Pontiff Pius IX. — of blessed* memory — to the (Ecumenical Council of the Vatican, most graciously invited me to accompany him to Rome — an invitation, it is unnecessary to say, as cheerfully accepted as it was graciously given. • We reached the Eternal City toward the end of November, 1869. I left for home about the last days of April. During my stay of hve months at the centre of Catholicity, 1 had ample opportunity — and under the most favorable auspices — to visit, time and again, the great monuments of ancient and modern Rome. My excursions were almoet daily ; and I enjoyed the rare privilege of such a companion as His Lordship, perfectly conversant with the City of the Popes. In my rambles, I noted down the more interesting objects, that they might be more vividly rembmbered On my return to Canada, they were found instructive : I was urged to put them into print. I hesitated, know- ing how often, how graphically — and how much better than I could hope to do — these things had been described already. IV Introduction. My "Notes" wero thrown aside, and almost forgotten amidst the daily busy round of missionary work in the large and laborious parish of Brockvillo. Returned to Wiliiamstown, I came across them, revised them, and, at the pressing solicitation of friends, consented to give them a lasting form, and in this shape present them to my many friends and well-wishers — hoping they will kindly overlook their man}' deficiencies, and accept them as a very simple and very unpretending record of what I saw in " Rome and Other Places." I. J. MacCARTHY. t Pried. WlLLIAMSTOWN, GlKNOAKRY, OnT. , September 8tb, 1888, Feast of Die Nativity uf the Blessed Virgin, Mary. CONTENTS. The Council of the Vatican . The Romeward Voyage At Sea . Arrival »t Liveqjool London ... Arrival at Calais . Visit to AmieiiH Cathedral Paris Lyons Avignon . Marseilles Arrival at Rome St. Peter's . The Council . St. Mary Major's . St. Paurs on the Ostian Way The Pantheon The Etruscan Statne on the Capitoline Basilica of St. John of Lateran My Diary Adieu to Rome Pisa . . . Sienna , Florence . 1,11 . 9 . 10 . 11 . 13 . 14 . 20 . 22 . 22 . 23 . 20 . 29 . 31 . 34 . 30 . 40 . 42 . 44 . 47 . 49 . 62 . 133 . 136 . i3e . 137 viii Contents. PAGE Padua 138 Venice 139 Milan 140 From Verona to Munich 142 Cologne . . . .146 Dover . . . .147 Edinburgh 147 Inverness L48 Ol&Bgow . . . 150 Home, Sweet Hume ! . . .... 151 Notes on the Mission of St. Francis Xavier . . 162 Rtsv. Father MacCarthy's Jubilee 157 Removal of Father MacCarthy from Brockvillu . . 166 Address of his Parishioners previous to his departure . . 166 Opinions of the Local Press on the Matter .... 168^ Signatures appended to the requisition to Right Reverend Bish'jp Cleary, from Brockville 170 " Dies IriB, Dies Ilia," as translated by Father MacCarthy. . 177 " The Cradle Song of the Blessed Virgin," translated from the Latin, by Father MacCarthy *. 179 Instructions for St. Patrick's Day, March 17th, 1885 . . 180 Notes on the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary . . 199 Address from the Parish of Williarastown, to Rev. Father MacCarthy 204 Farewell : A Poem, from tiie pupils of the Congregation of Notre Dame 206 KECOLLECTIONS OF ROME, AND OTHER PLACES. 1869-70. EPOCH OF THE VATICAN COUNCIL. CHAPTER I. I. The greatest of Pontiffs had spoken ; the immortal Pius IX. had summoned the Patriarchs, Priests, Arch- bishops and Bishops of the Catholic world, in commun- ion with the Holy See, to meet in the Eternal City for the most important event of the nineteenth century, the Council of the Vatican. More than eighteen hundred years ago, the first Pope, Simon Bar-Jona, Peter, the chosen of Christ, the Prince of the Apostolic College, in an humble chamber held the first Ecumenical Council and decreed : " It hath seemed good to the Holy Ghost and to us, not to lay any further burden upon you, our brethren of the Gentiles in An- tioch, in Syria and Cilicia, than that you abstain from things offered to idols, from blood, from strangled meats and fornication." As the first, to whom — " all power in heaven and upon earth was granted" — so the two hundred and sixty- 10 Recollections of Rome, second, successor, to whom the same power is continued : — " Lo ! I am with you all days, unto the consumma- tion of the world " — (St. Matthew) — finds, that for the wants of the Spouse of Christ, those whom the Holy Ghost had placed to govern the Church of God, should be called together; and the summons goes forth — Urhi et Orhi — and from the four winds of heaven,, from the ex- tremities of the earth, the princes of God's people hasten tc the city of the seven hills, obedient to the voice of the Supreme Pastor of souls, the Vicar of the incarmate God; thus acknowledging that Peter lives in his successors, and that — " ubi Petrus, ibi ecclesia " — where Peter is there is the Church. n. QUEBEC. The 23rd of October, 18G9, their Lordships the Arch- bishop of Quebec, the Bishops of Kingston, St. Hyacinthe, Three-Rivers, and Idaho, U.S.T., accompanied by several priests, their companions, after the " Itinerarium," dur- ing which, in the grand old cathedral of the ancient capital, now raised to the dignity of a Basilica, by His Holiness Leo XIII., at the foot of the gorgeous altar, they implored the Divine mercy and the protection of the im- maculate Mother on their Romeward voyage, left for for the steamer, accouipanied by the clergy, an immense concourse of citizens, the Professors of the University of Laval, and the students of the Petit-S^minaire, headed by their sf)lendid band. It was a bleak October morning, and Other Places. 11 cold, but not enough to cool the enthusiasm of the as- sembled thousands, who waited until our noble ship weighed anchor, and loudl}' cheered the venerable prelates as they raised their hands to bless them, while the splen- did vessel — the Nestorian — majestically left the harbor. While in Quebec, we were the guests of His Grace, Mgr Baillargeon who, with his venerable clergy, entertained us most regally. The da}' before our lieparture, the gentle- men of the Seminary gave a grand dinner in honor of the assembled prelates. Bishop Horan and I said mass in the ancient chapel of the Ursulincs. III. AT SEA. Our trip acro!-:s the Atlantic was more than usually pleasant. We had some pretty rough weather ; indeed, some of the roughest ever experienced in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and yet, seldom was made better headway. As might be expected, the first few days many were very sea-sick, and no doubt some of them felt like the Irishman who said, w^hen he first went aboard ship, he feared they would all go to the bottom ; but when he got sick, he was afraid they would not. Sunday morning, the second day out, we had the great happiness of assisting at the adorable Sacrifice of the Mass, a rare privilege at sea, and upon two other occa- sions during the passage. His Lordship Bishop Horan was the celebrant, and the Vicar-General, now the Car- dinal Archbishop of Quebec, the assistant. 12 Recollections of Rome, Nothing can be imagined grander, niore-impres.sive, than Mass on the broad bosom of the ocean. It is true there is the absence of all that pomp, that ritualistic splendor, that generally ourrounds this, the greatest of all the or- dinances of religion. We miss the magnificence of the grand cathedral, or the charms of the simple, yet beauti- ful, village church ; but on the other hand, the very want of them reminds us of our own nothingness, and the mind, recalling the perils of the deep, is more than usually ab- sorbed in the contemplation of the dread Majesty of Him whom the winds and the waves obey, and who ever guides and guards His children. Never shall we forget the im- pressions of those happy mornings ; the consolation of hearing Mass ; the sense of securitj' one felt as we left the little chamber on deck where, around the temporary altar, we had been privileged to assist at a mass on sea. Going thirteen knots an hour. Sun set to-day at four o'clock. Our fellow-passengers were most agreeable, and after a few days, when the "sick were restored to health," we enjoyed the remainder of the voyage amazingly. Enter- tainments were given occasionally, thet helped much to relieve the monotony of the trip, and afforded genuine amusement. Sunday evening, nine days out, wa espied the lights on Tory Island, and at ten o'clock entered Lough Foyle, when a small boat, a tender, came to take the mail and passen- gers for Ireland. Though the night was exceedingly dark, we crowded on deck, anxious for a glimpse of the land of our fathers. All we could see were the lights glimmering in the dis- and Other Places. 13 tance ; yet, the very fact that we were in presence of the the dear old sod, for the first time, afforded us a pleasure that is still a pleasure to look back to. Here, rockets were fired from the ship, producing a beautiful effect in the profound darkness. The next day was intensely disagreeable ; about ten p.m., we reached the large and wealthy city of Liverpool, ranking next to London in commercial enterprise and importance. This morning we had again the happiness of assisting at the Holy Sacrifice, Mgr. Horan officiating. IV. ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL. Our first day in Liverpool was " All-Souls," and our first visit in this great city was to the beautiful Gothic Church of St. Vincent de- Paul, to retuin thanks to God for our safe and happy voyage. This fine church was under the care of the Very Rev. Canon O'Rielly, now the venerable bishop of the diocese. The canon received us with that courtesy for which he is so distinguished, kindly exhibiting to us the rich and costly ornaments, and other interesting objects. Taking our leave of this worthy gentleman, we visited the famous docks, which extend for miles, then crowded with vessels from all parts of the world. About twenty- five thousand ships annually enter this port. Liverpool boasts of many fine buildings. St. George's Hall is one of the finest, a noble structure ; the interior 14 Recollections of Rome, is adoined with many beautiful statues of the purest marble, costly paintings, and contains a magnificent organ. If in Liverpool there is found immense wealth, there is also immense misery. During the few days we spent there we beheld more poverty, more abject wretchedness, than during the next six months on the continent. Ah crime is generally the outcome of great poverty, no doubt great wickedness must prevail. We supped one evening at Dr. Kelly's, a brother of the late Very Kev'd. Oliver Kelly, formerly parish priest of Saint Francis Xaviers, Brockville. V. From Liverpool we went to London, two hundred and thirty-six miles distant. The route between the two cities is charming, passing by thriving towns, villages, and villas, in a most delightful country. We passed a week in the great metropolis, during which we visited itp most interesting monuments : — Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's Cathedral, the British Museum, the new Houses of Parliament, and many other interesting places, well worthy the attention of the tourist, and which, of course, no one fails to see. In Westminster Abbey, that great creation of Catholic genius, one scarcely knows what to admire most. The architecture is of the purest gothic, and the many noble monuments raised to the illustrious dead, make it a place of absorbing interest. As Catholics, of the shrines that most excited our veneration were those of Saint Edward the Confessor, and Other Places. 15 "which occupies the centre of the magnificent chapel, de- dicated to the memory of this glorious king, the last of the Saxon race ; and our pity and respect, that of the martyred queen, the beautiful, but unfortunate Marie Stuart. ks we passed the former, we pressed our lips reverently to the holy shrine ; and at the latter, breathed a requiem for the murdered queen. This tomb is in the south side of Henry Seventh's chapel, and the grand monument erected by the miserable James — Mary's son — to the murderess of his mother, stands in the north aisle of the same. Needless to say, the very sight of it filled us with hor- ror, and we hastened by, scarcely glancing at the fulsome inscription engraved upon it. His lordship and myself again visited the Abbey ; one never wearies gazing upon this grand old Catholic Church. The celebrated stone upon which the Kings of Scotland sat at their coronation is here, and fixed in the chair upon which sit the Sov- ereigns of England on the day of their coronation. St. Paul's Cathedral, the great and solitary boast of Protestantism, is worthy of a better cause. Indeed we much think were the apostle of the Gentiles to visit it, he should fail to recognize it for a Christian temple. A portion of it is used for " divine service " ; and the rest looks as heathenish as can well be imagined. Statues of " History ", " Fame ", " Victory ", " Britannia ", are met on every side; and give this,otherwise splendid church, the appearance of what the Pantheon might have been in the days of the pagan emperors of Rome. The other visits 16 Recollections of Rome, that filled up our time were to the Crystal Palace, the Zoological Gardens, the Parks, and some of the Catholic Churches. We particularly admired Bishop Grant's splen- did cathedral, one of Pugin's best, on the Surry siile of the Thames. One morning we saw Her Majesty on her way to open the new Black Friars bridge, and the Holborn viaduct. She bowed, we cannot say gracefully, but repeatedly and good naturedly, to her lieges, as she drove along ; some of whom, if we may judge from the muttered expressions, were anything but charmed with the show and pomp of royalty, while many wanted work, and consequently — bread. In London we had the pleasure of meeting the Rev. Angus McDonald, of Prince Edward's Island, an old Quebec seminary acquaintance, and with whom I had the pleasure to travel home, on my return from Rome. VI. Said mass at Spanish Place Church ; and about four o'clock, afternoon, with Mgra. Horan and Lootens, drove to St. George's. Canon Daniel, afterwards Bishop of South wark, received us with the greatest kindness, and had the church lighted up that we might see its beauties to advantage. Tuesday, Nov. 9th, saw us on our way to Dover. This romantic old town is one of the chief seaports of England —directly opposite the coast of France. It is built in a valley between lofty chalk hills which, especially when and Other Placea. 17 reflecting the rays of the sun, present a most picturesque appearance. The great object of attraction in town is its ancient castle. This magnificent specimen ot the Norman stronghold stands on a lofty eminence overlooking the channel. From the northern limit, 4G8 feet above the level of the fiea, we have a splendid view of the town, a great portion of Kent, and far out to sea. It was growing dark as we left the castle, and, in the distance, we could see distinctly the lights along the French shore. Whether considered under the Roman, Saxon or Norman rule, no fortress in England combines more historical associations than this ancient pile. Connected with the castle, is the church of St. Mary, said to have been built in the fourth century. It is now in the cruciform style, accommodating about six hundred persons. No one can visit Dover without being struck by what is called ' Shakespeare's Cliff,' named from the poet, who describes it in his celebrated tragedy of King Lear : — " There is a cliff, whose high anil bending head Looks fearfully on the confined deep. How fearful And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eyes so low ! The crows and choughs that wing the midway air Show scarce as large as beetles ; half way down Hangs one that gathers samphire— dreadful trade ! Methinks he looks no bigger than his head ; The fishermen that walk upon the beach Appear like mice ; and you tall anchoring bark Diminished to her cock ; her cock a buoy Almost too small for sight. The murmuring surge, 18 RecoVectiona of Rome, That on the iumiiui))ereil pebbleH ohftfeN, CBnnot be heard ho high. I'll look no more, LeHt my brain turn, and the deficient Right, Topple down headlong," Next morning, after mass in the small but pretty church, we drove over to Canterbury, through a lovely section of the country. The morning was delightful, the air bracing, and upon all sides the landscape enchanting. England was called " Merry England ; " well might it be calle' beautiful Eng- land, for it well deserves the name. Canterbury is situated in a valley on the Stour. Though very ancient it is still a fine city, with a population of some thirty-five thousand souls (1869). The famous cathedral, like all the great ecclesiastical monuments, was built when England was Catholic. The daily afternoon service, corresponding to the Com- plins of yore, was going on as we entered ; and having listened for a few moments to the truly delicious strains echoing through the spacious empty church, we went to lunch, intending to return when "divine service" should be ended. Returning, we were shown through this majestic pile. Here St. Thomas d Beckett, the defender of the liberties of the Church, was murdered at the vesper hour by the minions of a base, tyrannical king. We knelt upon the very stones which had once been purpled with his life's- blood ; and we prayed that, like him, we might be ever faithful and true to Holy Mother Church. and Other Places. 10 The spot where, in holier and happier times, stood his sacred slirine, was pointed out to us. The steps of mar- ble leading to it, as well as the surrounding pavement, are hollowed by the knees of the numberless pilgrims who came to claim his intercession at his hallowed tomb. The " Lady's Chapel," of course, no longer exists; we saw where it was once, when its bishops were worthy of being enrolled among the saints of God. Alas ! alas ! to think of England, once a truly Catholic nation, and now so sadly fallen from her high estate ; carried to and fro by every wind of doctrine, seeking for rest and yet find- ing none. Let us hope, however, since the blood of the martyrs is the seed of the Church, that the blood of the martyred k Beckett and of many others put to death in that fair land for the faith of their fathers, and conse- quently no less martyrs than he, may plead powerfully before God and obtain that the English people, who need only to be Catholic to be the greatest people on earth, may return to the House of their Father, and find peace and rest in the " one fold of the one Shepherd." Returned to Dover by train, a distance of sixteen miles, and spent a most pleasant evening with Captain and Mrs. Moore and her amiable and accomplished sister, Miss T , then on a visit from Canada. The rev. the parish priest, and a distinguished convert from Anglican- ism — now a Catholic clergyman — dined with us. This gentleman wore the soutane, cincture, Roman-collar — and indeed seemed rather proud of his ecclesiastical costume. We again said mass in the pretty church, St. Mary's. 20 liccolleclions of Rome, CHAPTER II. Thk morniii«^ after our visit to Canterbury wo bade adieu to Dover and friends, whose genuine liospitality wo shall not easily forget. Poor Captain Moore died since — on his way from China. He was, indeed, one of nature's true gentlemen ! We reached C^alais in about two hours. The passage of the channel was exceedingly unpleasant. A high wind, a boisterous crossing, and as usual, many awfully seasick. The harbor has a very imposing appearance, defended by several small forts : a large quay, with its long wood- en piers, stretches far into the sea. The entrance to the harl)or v/as fearful. Five men stood at the helm, so difti- cult was it to manage the packet. Calais presents the appearance of a goodly town ; it is constructed princi- pally of brick. It enjoys a brisk trade, chiefly in the manufacture of cotton and silk lace. As every one knows it was this place of which Queen Mary said, on learning that it was lost to Englaml, " After death, its name shall be found written upon my heart." A truly royal senti- ment, right royally expres.sed. Here are some flne churches. Notre-Dame, eleventh century, boasts, of beautiful stained windows, and paint- ings by Rubens and Vandyke — real master-pieces. Our next stoi)ping-place was the old town of Boulogne- sur-mer, where we passed the night. After breakfast, the and Other Places. n following morning, we visited the principal churches of the city, the most remarkable being Notre-Dame, erected by Monsignor Hafi'riiigue, to whoni wo had the honor of an introduction. The altars vie with some of the most beautiful known, and would grace the finest temple on earth. The grand altar, the gift of the Roman Prince Torlonia, is composed of the rarest marbles and mosaics, at a cost of five hundred thousand francs. On the brow of the hill stands the little famous chapel of the Boulogne fish- ermen, overlooking the sea. It is quaint, and very small, but contains some good paintings : its walls are hung with ex votos, in gratitude to Mary, the Star of the sea, to whose all powerful protection many owe their rescue from a wateiy grave. It was a touching sight, the fer- vent piety of the women and children who crowded this holy place, praying for husbands and fathers, faraway on the deep. We knelt with them at the foot of our Lady's altar, to implore her care ; and, ere we left, lit a taper for our- selves and the loved ones at home. An object of great curiosity in Boulogne, is the cele- brated column, commemorating the intended invasion of England by Napoleon. It is magnificent, as well as its surroundings. It was here he distributed the decorations to the " Grande Arm^e." From this lofty erainenee, the view of the sea and country is superb. Our visit to Boulogne was particularly enjoyable, the 22 Recollections of Rome, weather being delightful, and contrasting wonderfully with the dark days we had spent in London. V. t. II. In the afternoon we reached Amiens, celebrated for its glorious old cathedral, 420 feet in length, and admittedly one of the noblest in Europe. The city has a fine appearance ,* the streets are spacious, and the places of business splendid. The gare, or depot, is immense, and is kept in first-class style.. Our stay here was short ; merel}'^ enough to visit the chief point of interest — the cathedral — and to see the principal parts of the city. From Amiens to Paris, the distance is eighty-one miles. The journey occupied three hours and forty minutes — rather slow travelling by train. It was near midnight as we entered the loveliest city in Europe — the rendezvous of the pleasure seekers of the world. Paris is built on both sides of the Seine, the river run- ning from east to west ; its circumference is fifteen of our miles. Put up at the Hotel, " Bon Lafontaine." Toler- ably good house ; charges very high. As usual, next day our first visits were to the churches, most of which are very grand, and very numerous. The world-renowned Notre-Dame, built in the twelfth century, with its gorgeous towers, and its noble entrances, splendidly wrought, is a temple of vast proportions and great magnificence. and Other Places. 23 The gallery is supported by 297 pillars, elegantly sculptured, and the choir, which is flanked by one hun- dred and twenty, is rich with choice paintings and ex- quisite carving. We assisted at vespers, complins and benediction of the Blessed Sacrament, and regretted to see so meagre an at- tendance. The chanting, accompanied by the great organ, was de- lightful ; in perfect harmony with the place. We said mass at St. Sulpice, and paid a visit to the Venerable Superior-General. In Paris, His Lordship and I called upon the Very Rev. Eather Hecker, Superior of the Paulists, New York, and had the honor of meeting His Grace the Most Rev. Dr. Connolly, the distinguished and whole-souled Archbishop of Halifax, my native place. We visited the Hotel des Invalides, famous as the last resting-place of the great Napoleon, and many other interesting sights, too many to mention. The Pantheon, now called Saint Genevieve, is one of the most faultless edifices in Paris, but unfor- tunately is dishonored by the remains of the infidel, Vol- taire, who lies beneath it. The tomb of the holy shep- herdess is in St. Etienne's du Mont, where Archbishop Sibour was assassinated. III. LYONS. Lyons is the chief manufacturing city in France. We reached it on the evening of the 16th November. It is 24 Recollections of Rome, built at the conjunction of the Saone and the Rhone, is a place of vast traffic, and in every respect a city of very great im|)ortance. The great square, Louis the Grand, is renowned through- out the continent. It is beautifully designed, planted with fine trees and adorned with a superb equestrian statue of the fourteenth Louis, most resembling those seen in the vestibule of St. Peter's, at Rome, and which are erected to the memory of Constantine and Charlemagne. Lyons is justly proud of her public librarj^ with its 150,000 volumes, and 2,400 manuscripts. We did not count them. The cathedral, dedicated to the beloved disciple, is of the twelfth century, gothic, and adorned with windows of stained glass, ancient and rich, producing that " dim religious light " — so conducive to piety and prayer, and so much vaunted bv the lovers of the beautiful. The bell weighs 20,000 lbs ; a great curiosity to the visitor is an old astronomical clock, with figures of our Lord and the twelve apostles, dating from 1598. The Sacristan most obligingly allowed us to inspect the treasures of the church, some of the most valuable in Europe. The vestments are gorgeous. One cope of cloth of gold cost twenty-five thousand francs. The embroidery is simp- ly indescribable. Here we saw ornaments once belonging to Cardinal Fesch, and a most costly and elaborate ostensoriura, pre- sented to His Eminence by his nephew, the first Napoleon. What interested us much more, was a chasuble wrought and Other Places. Vi by the ladies of the court of Louis XIII. for Saint Vincent de Paul. Among the relics which we were privileged to vener- ate was the saint's heart : a bone of St. Irenaeus, Bishop of Lyons; and, above all, a thorn of our blessed Lord's crown, a particle of the wood of the true cross, and of the holy winding sheet in which His sacred body was laid in the tomb. Twice during my stay in Lyons I climbed the heights of Fourvi^res, to celebrate the holy sacrifice at the shrine of Our Lady, which is covered with ex votos. The Lyonese have immense devotion to the Mother of God, under the title of Notre Dame de Fourvi^res. To her powerful intercession with her divine Son, they ascribe the deliverance of their city from cholera, imme- diately after their public vow, made in her honor. From Fourvi^res, the ascent to which is most fatiguing, on a clear day, may be seen the celebrated Mont Blanc, distant about one hundred miles. The Hotel Dieu — a vast hospi- tal — is served by nuns who wear a very quaint costume. We were told the order had existed for upwards of 700 years. Nowhere did we see members of so many reli- gious orders, so many diverse costumes. Truly Lyons is the city of Mary, and perhaps the moat truly Catholic of all the cities of fair France. At Fourvi&res I had some masses said by the rev. clergy, and some tapers lit at the holy shrine, for my in- tentions. His Eminence, Cardinal de Bonald, was the Archbishop of Lyons (1869). We had to forego paying B 26 Recollections of Rome, our respects to his lordship, who happened to be very ill at the time. IV. AVIGNON. Three hours and a-half, b}'' train, brought us to Avignon, the principal city of the Vaucluse, on the Rhone, and 8ever>ty-five miles north of Marseilles. After dining, we visited the Hotel Dieu, built in 1351, under the French Popes, which is under the care of the cloistered nuns, Sisters of St. Joseph, the same order as those of Montreal and Kinjjston. These devoted women were driven from this ancient convent in 1790, and again, in our own days — 1845. From the Hotel Dieu we went to the old church and palace of the popes, who resided here from 1305 till 1378. In the papal church, built in the eleventh century, are seen the tombs of Benedict XIII. and John XXII. ; the latter of the whitest marble, and a masterpiece of art. In the sanctuary, still remains the pontifical throne, also of marble. Several excellent portraits of the popes, and some very good paintings, grace the walls of this historic church. Clement V. was the first — Gregory XI. who died in Rome — the last of the popes who resided at Avignon. In all seven, not counting two anti-popes. The papal palace, now used for a barrack and prison, is 2 hugo quadrangular structure, having four large towers, Vau-h give it the appearance of a gigantic fortress. The palace gardens, now a public promenade, are beauti- and Other Places. 27 ful, and from them, high above the river, is taken in a splendid view of the Rhone and the adjacent country. At a short distance is seen the bridge, now in ruins, said to have been constructed by St. Benezet, in 1177-88. A legend is attached to this interesting ruin. It says, that presenting himself to the authorities, this holy man assured them that he had been commissioned by God to have a bridge built there. The governor, naturally imredulous, said to him : To prove the truth of what you say, carry that — pointing to an immense rock — to the place. The Saint did it, and the bridge was built. It is not used at present, but suffi- cient remains to show it was no ordinary work. The pop- ulation was 35,000. A dull place. Sunday morning we said mass in the beautiful chapel of the Hotel Dieu, and after breakfast visited the wards of the hospital, in which there were one hundred and fifty patients, and which were kept, as only nuns can keep them. The good sisters had adopted a young ne- gress, who had been sold four times as a slave. We dined with the Rev. Chaplain, a polished, courteous, and highly accomplished priest, and then proceeded to Nimes, so de- servedly celebrated for its antiquarian remains. This is indeed an elegant city. One-third of the popu- lation is Huguenot, and we must admit, nowhere in France did we see the Sunday, at least so far as appear- ances go, so strictly observed. A noble Coliseum, second only to the Vespasian, and said to have been built by the Romans, with sixty outlets, and accommodating twenty- 28 Recollections of Rome, five thousand spectators, is one of the very great attrac- tions to Nimes. The temple of the goddess Diana is still well preserved after such a lapse of time. The place whence the Sibyl uttered her oracles is pointed out to the tourist. Here is found the famous Maison-Carr^d, or Square House, acknowledged as perhaps the most perfect speci- men of Corinthian architecture. This house, built by Augustus for Antoninus Pius, is at present used as a pub- lic museum, and a rare one it is. Near the temple of Diana wells up a most copious fountain, the source of which seems a mystery, supplying the city with water, a most fortunate thing, for this year (1869), no rain had fullen for eight months, preventing the usual agricultural industries. The grounds about the fountain are carefully laid out, not the least of their ornaments being four col- ossal statues, allegorical of the four seasons. The saintly Pius VII. in the days of his exile honored Nimes with a visit. So great was the multitude that thronged the way of the Vicar of Christ, it took five hours to pass a few acres- His Holiness granted an indulgence to the city, being deeply impressed by the demonstrations of love, respect, and veneration manifested by the people for his sacred character. Asked by Fouchd how he had found France, "Blessed be heaven ! " replied the Pope, " we have crossed it amid a kneeling population. How far were we from be- lieving such to be the state of France," and Other Places. 29 V. MARSEILLES. It was night when we got to Marseilles — merely in time to reach the packet for Italy, consequently we saw, and that by gas-light, but little of the city. From the deck of the vessel, even by night, it presents a fine appearance, rising high above the waters of the Mediterranean. The moon shone fitfully through the clouds, portending foul wedther,^ which unfortunately for us proved too true. The vessel was crowded. On board was a very large number of passengers, far too many to be comfortable, in- cluding His Eminence the Cardinal Archbishop of Besan- con, twenty-six bishops from Europe, Asia, Africa and America, besides a host of priests. The weather was dreadful ; a fierce storm came on. The passage from Marseilles to Civita Vecchia, which is generally made in thirty-six hours, occupied three days and four nights. It was reported that our vessel was lost. Twice we were obliged to seek refuge ; once in the harbor of Elba, fam- ous for the residence of Napoleon, in 1815 ; and again, in the Porto d' Hercule, where we had the gratification of laying at anchor all night. Friday morning at ten o'clock, we steamed into the port of Civita Vecchia and soon, for the first time, stood upon the shores of lovely Italy, the land of painting, of music, and of song ; the home of all that is grand and beautiful ; the fairest of God's earth ; 30 Recollections of Rome, the centre of Catholicity — the home of the Pontiff, of the successor of Peter, of the Vicar of Jesus Clirist, of the Supreme Head of the Catholic Church. We lunched at the palace of the Bishoj), who was also governor of the city, and at four o'clock took the train for Rome, arriving about 8 p.m. At the depot we found carriages, by order of His Holi- ness, waiting to convey the bishops to their hotels. We secured excellent quarters at the " Minerva," one of the finest public houses in the city, and but a moment's walk from the celebrated Dominican Church, known as Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. and Other Places. 81 CHAPTER III. ROM£. I. " Rome is situated in the centre nearly of the Cam- pagna, that undulating tract wliich lies between the Sabine Apennines and the Cimenian range of hills on the north, and the low country extending along the shores of the Mediterranean on the west. Its nearest point in a straight line from the sea-coast is thirteen miles. The modern city is built in the plain which lies on each bank of the Tiber, and on the slopes of the seven hills which formed such well-known features in the topography of ancient Rome. The height of these hills, within the circuit of the present walls, varies from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and eighty feet above the river. The Tiber divides the city into two very unequal portions, traversing it from north to south in a winding course of about three miles. On the left bank, the Pincian, Quiri- nal, Viminal, and Capitoline hills form a kind of amphi- theatre, encircling the irregular flat of the Campus Mar- tins. On the right bank of the Tiber lies the narrow flat which contains the districts of the Borgo and Trastevere. It is bounded on the west by a ridge of hills. The prin- cipal eminences of this ridge within the walls are the Vatican and the Janiculum, which preserve nearly unal- tered their ancient names. 82 RecolUctiona of Home, Beyond the wallw, the picturcHque MonteMario, with its villas and cypress plantations, nmy be considered the con- tinuation of this elevated ridge on the north, and the hill of Sta. Passera beyond the Porta Portese on the south. The Traatevere and tha Borgo are united by the street of the Lungara, built by SixtusV. in the level space between the Tib^jr and the declivity of the Janiculum." The walla of Rome, including those of the Trastevere and the Vati- can, are from twelve to thirteen miles in circuit. My first day in Rome was Saturday, a day sacred to the Blessed Virgin, and my first visit, accidentally, to one of her churches, St. Mary of the Angels, constructed of a portion of the baths of Diocletian. Called at the Propa- ganda in the evening with Mgr., who had business with Cardinal Barnabo. This church, outwardly not at all remarkable, within is perfectly exquisite. It has fine paintings; among others an immense fresco, transported in one piece from St. Peter's — a wonderful undertaking. Here is St. Bruno's statue in white marble, considered one of the most perfect of the modern school. It is the work of the French sculptor Hudon. So true to life is it, that one of the Popes said, " It would speak, did not the rule prescribe silence." A great and well-merited eulogium. By a side door opening from the church we entered the cloisters of the monastery, and were most kindly received by one of the venerable Carthusian fathers. Here the exhibition of Christian art was to be held and Other Placeft, 33 in February, and no more suitable place could have been selected. In the gardens of this noble convent three stately cypress trees planted (now, 1887) three hundred and ninety years ago, by Michael Angelo, were pointed out to us. Soon after quitting the monastery we had the good luck of meeting the Pope and got his blessing, a presage of God's blessing during our 8(vjourn in the city of the Vicar of His Son. My first mass in Rome was on Sunday, and celebrated in the church of the Dominicans, commonly called the Minerva. Upon this spot Pompey, wishing to immortalise his Asi- atic victories, had dedicated a temple to the goddess of war and wisdom. This church, partly Gothic, a rare thing in Rome, was lately restored by the good fathers at a cost of half a mil- lion of francs. Under the high altar reposes the body of Saint Catha- rine of Sienna, one of the most illustrious of the Domi- nican saints. Here on the festival of the Annunciation, His Holiness holds a papal chapel, and gives dowries to poor young women, some of whom marry, while others, more fortu- nate, consecrate themselves to God in the silence of the cloister. It was the first Sunday of Advent, and the " Quarante Ore " at St. Peter's. Taking a hurried breakfast, I hastened to the great Basilica, and arrived in good time for the procession of NOTRE DAME HIGH SCHOOL, OTTAWA 34 Recollections of Rome, the Most Holy Sacrament. iJis Holiness, over whom was . ,» held a gorgeous canopy, carried the " Holy of Holies, accompanied by some three hundred bishops, cardinals, the noble guard, the diplomatic corps, and all the great officers of his household. The brave Zouaves, whom His Holiness always loved to honor, lined the way of the cortege, and at least twenty thousand people must have been present on this sublime occasion, and bent in lowly adoration, as Jesus Christ, present in the Sacrament of His love, was borne along to be enthroned on the high altar of the greatest temple ever raised by the hand of man to the worship of the livin*^ God. " But thou of temples old, or altars new, Standest above — with nothing like to thee — Worthiest of God, the holy and the true. Since Zion's desolation, when that He Forsook the former city, what could be. Of earthly stnictures, in his Honor piled. Of a sublimer aspect ? Majesty, Power, Glory, Strength, and Beauty all are aisled In this eternal ark of worship undefiltd," —Byron. IL The great attraction for the traveller on arriving in Rome is St. Peter's, which has been so truly designated as — "the most glorious structure that has ever been ap- plied to the use of religion." In the year 90, Saint Anacletus, ordained by, and suc- cessor of, the prince of the apostles, erected on the present site of the great Basilica an oratory, in honor of Saint Peter. and Other Places. 35 It is uncertain wlietlier it was on the Janiculum, or near the circus of Nero, on the Vatican, that the apostle was put to death. Be this as it may, it is certain his sacred relics were deposited here ; and hence the venera- tion ever afterward attached to this hallowed spot. In the year 324, Constantine, the first Christiam emperor, laid the foundation of the temple which he, in thanksgiving to God for the gift of faith, desired to raise over the tomb of the " Fisherman." This grand imperial structure lasted eleven centuries and a-half ; the admiration of the Christian world. In the year 1450, it threatened ruin, and the reigning Pontiff, Nicholas V., determined on rebuilding. From this date, till 1626, when the consecration took place, one hundred and seventy -six years elapsed ; and, if we include the completing the sacristy under Pius VI. we shall have 330 years, during which forty-three popes reigned. At the close of the 17th century, Carlo Maderno estima- ted its cost at 46,800,428 seudi— £10,000,000 sterling, not including the sacristy — 900,000 scudi. Repairs annually amount to thirty thousand dollars^ Like almost all who see St. Peter's for the first time, I must admit I was rather disappointed. It by no means presents the immensity we had im- agined ; it seems strikingly smaller than it is really ; a fact accounted for by its wonderfully exact proportions, However, after a few visits, its vastness grows upon us. The length is 6 13^— English feet. The width of the nave and side aisles, including the pilasters that separate them, is 197| feet The extreme 36 Recollections of Rome, length of the transepts, from end to end, is 446J feet. The height of the nave over the doors is 152^ feet, and of the dome, from the pavement to the top of th« cross out- side, 448 feet. Volumes would be needed to detail the sp.o^idor, beauty and loveliness of this divinest of temples. It contains forty-seven altars, each magnificent, when we consider the wealth of art that surrounds them. Indeed, had the popes done little else, the world would be indebted to them for this, the grandest conception of the mind of man. III. THE COUNCIL. Here, St, Peter's, on the 8th day of December, 1869, festival of the Immaculate Conception, v/as opened the Council of the Vatican, the nineteenth general Council of the Church of God ; assuredly, in whatever light we may regard it, the greatest the world has ever seen. Tile day was most unpropitious, heavy rain and wind ; yet a vast multitude had assembled early at St. Peter's anxious to behold the great pageant. On the grand altar, beneath the " wondrous dome," the most adorable Sacrament was exposed, and thousands knelt in prayer before it, imploring the divine blessing upon the important work about to be inaugurated on that auspicious day. The great door of St. Peter's is thrown open ; all eyes turn to it, and the Cross — the sign of the Son of Man — appears above the heads of the kneeling multitude. and Other Places. 37 Following come the six hundred bishops representing the Catholic world, and the grandest, most sublime, most imposing procession ever beheld within the sacred Basilica, is closed by the Vicar of Christ borne on his throne, while from the tribune above the great door, come strains of the most ravishing, unearthly melody. Before the high altar the Pontiff descends and, pros- trate, adores his divine Lord in the mystery of His love and then entered the Aula and assisted at the solemn Mass offered for the success of the Council. IV. The most noble of Rome's noble ruins is the Coliseum, also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, owing its exis- tence to the Emperors of the Flavian family. Begun in the year 82 by Vespasian, it was dedicated by Titus in the year of our Lord 80 ; ten years after the taking by the latter of Jerusalem. Tradition tells us its architect was Gaudeititius, a Christ- ian and a martyr, whose relics now rest within one of the most ancient churches — Sta. Martina and Sta. Luca — in the Forum. Thousands of captive Jews were employed in this work. Up to the year 523, the blood of wild beasts, and of gladiators little less ferocious, flowed freely on its soil. This enormous construction is built principally of stone called Travertine, with much brick work in the interior. The form is ellipticle and the style Doric, Ionic and Corinthian. It has four storeys ; the height of the outer »9Bi 88 Recollections of Rome, wall is 157 feet, it accommodates one hundred thousand spectators. Few places in the eternal city possess greater interest for the Christian than these wonderful ruins. There, thous- ands of our brethren, in the first ages of the Church, shed their life's blood for the faith we this day hold. Here the glorious Martyr St. Ignatius,bishop of Antioch, was torn to pieces by lions ; and here Eustache, his wife, their two children, and the noble virgins Martina, Tatiana and Prisca ; the Senator Julius, the Bishops Alexander and Elutherius ; the young Persian princes, Abdon and Sennen, and countless others gladly suffered death for the defence of the truths preached by the humble fisher- man of Galilee. Attempts were made, fortunately unsuc- cessful, to make of this place a manufactory. In 1750, the learned and saintly Benedict XIV. conse- crated it to the glorious mai'tyrs put to death therein. It was then the Via Crucis, or stations of the cross, were erected, and Saint Leonard of Port Maurice established the pious confraternity which, every Sunday and Friday, two hours before the Ave Maria, performs here the touch- ing exercise that recalls so vividly ihe Saviour's painful journey to Calvary. More than once while in Rome did I make the stations within these sacred precincts ; and never shall I forget my impressions when assisting at this sublime devotion, in the afternoon of Good Friday. Thousands thronged the holy place, and, headed by the venerable bishop of Beauvais, performed the way of the cross. It was a sight for angels to look upon ; a sight that must have given joy to the sainted heroes who ages and Other Places. 39 ago had suffered and had died on that vast arena, now pressed by the knees of devout worshipers from all parts of the world, who, while they meditated on the humilia- tions and death of the King of martyrs, blessed God that in Him, others, almost innumerable, had found grace and strength to suffer and to die. On the north of the Coliseum still stands a portion of the fountain called the Meta Sudans. It was most probably for the use of the gladiators after their combats in the amphitheatre. For the botanist, the coliseum has special attractions : an English physician who resided in Rome, assures us that four hundred species of plants are found growing on its walls. By this time, another may be added to the list, — a right rev. friend from one of Americans wildest' regions, having sown seed of some, peculiar to the Rocky mount- ains. Not far from the Colise,um, at the entrance of the Via di San. Gregori, is seen the arch erected by the Senate and Roman people in honor of Constantine, victorious over Maxentius and Licinius. It is composed of three arches ; is built of marble, with fine fluted columns in the Corinthian order, and is covered with exquisite bas reliefs. Critics say, as a work of art, it is far from perfect ; yet the majority of visitors will view it with much pleasure and satisfaction. We returned home by the great church of St. Mary Major's, which we entered; and having adored the blessed Sacrament, we venerated a portion of the Crib, which is enclosed in a superb reliquary over its own special altar 40 JiecoUectiona of Rome, and which had been presented to the church by Pius IX., at a cost of twenty-five thousand scudi. We arranged with one of the canons to uay mass here on the following morning — a very great and consoling privilege. V. ST. MAilY major's. The traditions of the Church tell us St. Mary Major's owes its fou .uiXoi ... Lo a miracle — the miracle of the snow. In th'> beginning of -b'^ sixth century there lived in Rome apatrieian laiD a Jo^i , 'ulcDess, heand his virtuous spouse resolved to consecrae ti.jii wealth to God. Having prayed to know the divine will, heaven favored them with a vision. The blessed Virgin appeared to them. " You shall build," said she, " in my honor, a basilica upon the hill of Rome which to-morrow shall be covered with snow." The same night, she appeared to Pope Liberius and commanded him to erect a church on that part of the Esquiline hill which he should find covered with snow ; adding that he should be assisted by the patrician — John. It was the night of the 4th of August, when the heat in Italy is greatest. The next morning the Esquiline was covered with snow. The whole city rushed to see the miracle. John having beheld it, repaired to the Lateran, to make known to the Pontiff the vision he had had. and Other Places. 41 and the low ; rohn. it in Inow. [ving the The Pope immediately repaired to the spot, the cause of the prodigy was made known ; the church was soon built at the expense of the saintly patrician and his spouse. St. Mary Major's, also called the Liberian Basilica, is the third in rank of the great churches of Rome. The in- terior is surpassingly beautiful. There are three naves, divided by 44 Ionic columns in white marble, supposed to have been taken from the temple of Juno Licina. The roof is flat, and divided into five rows of panels. It is el- aborately carved, and gilt with the first gold brought to Spain from South America, presented to Alexander VI. by Ferdinand and Isabella. Over the high altar rises the baldacchino erected by Benedict XIV. from designs of Fuga : it is supported by four Corinthian columns of red porphyry, entwined with gilt bronze palm-leaves, and surmounted by four angels in marble. The Sixtine and Borghese chapels are indescribable : the latter cost £400,000 sterling — about two millions of dollars. The miraculous painting of the Virgin and Child, the same which St. Gregory the Great carried in procession to stay the plague that desolated Rome in a. d. 590, is here most religiously preserved. On the festival of the Assumption, His Holiness assists here at mass, and afterwards gives his benediction, ITrbi et Orbi, from the balcony over the grand entrance to the church. c Meeollectiona of Rome, VI. ST. PAULS ON THE OSTIAN WAT. A mile and a quarter outsiue the Porta San Paolo, stands the Basilica Oatiensis — a temple not unworthy of the Apostle of the Gentilea. It was commenced by the Emperors Valentinian II. and Theodosius in A. D. 388, on the site of a more ancient basilica founded by Constantino, over the catacomb of Lucina, a Roman lady who had embraced Christianity, and completed by Honorius in 395 ; Leo III. restored it in the eighth century. Hither was removed the body of St. Paul from the Vatican in a. d. 251, inclosed in a stone urn, on which was engraved the name of the Apostle. The body of St. Timothy also rests under the high altar. Here upon a side altar, is seen the miracul- ous crucifix that spoke to Saint Bridgit. The Church of the Tre Fontana — or three fountains — merits a visit. This is the scene of the martyrdom of St. Paul, and three fountains are said to have sprung up, as the sacred head rebounded thrice, after being severed from the body. The column, inclosed in an iron grating, at which the saint was beheaded, is kept here with great veneration, and no Catholic ever fails to touch it with reverence, or to drink of the waters of the holy fountains. On this road — Via Ostia — a small chapel marks the place of separ- ation of Sts. Peter and Paul, on their way to suffer death. The inscription runs thus : — " In queato luogoSi Separa- and Other Places. 43 'aolo, liy of I. and ncient nib of ianity, 3red it ody of id in a of the ler the iracul- :ains — of St. up, as vered le ich the jration, nee, or )n this separ- death. ^epara- rono S. Pietro e S. Paolo andavdo at m/irtirio ; e dice Paolo a Pietro : la pace sia teco fondamento delta chieaa e pastore di tuttl gli agnelli dl chrUto. — E Pietro a Paolo : Va in pace predicatore dei biioni e guida delta salute dei giusti." " At this plaeo St. Peter and St. Paul on their way to suffer martyrdom, separated ; and Paul said to Peter : May peace be with thee, foundation of the Church and Pas- tor of all the lambs of Christ. And Peter said to Paul : Go in peace, thou preacher of the good, and guide of the just, in the way of salvation." There are three churches hard by, within very little distance of each other. One is called Scala Cceli — the ladder of heaven — and within its vaults lie the remains of St. Zeno, and his twelve thousand companions. Some tine mosaics recently found at Ostia are to be seen in this interesting place, which has lately been en- trusted by the Sovereign Pontiff to the Trappist monks, who are ])lanting the Eucalyptus, and endeavoring to drain the adjacent territory and render the locality more healthy. The Abbot pointed out to us an ancient road lately dis- covered, which leads to a temple of Diana, about a mile and a-half distant. It was getting late, so we had to fore- go the pleasure of visiting it. It was a beautiful evening, and as we drove back to the city we enjoyed the glorious Italian sunset, casting its golden rays upon the Alban hills, and lighting up the pretty villages that grace their lordly sides. 44 Recollections of Rome, CHAPTER IV. The beat preserved of all the ancient buildings of Rome, and the one that retains more than any other its original appearance, is the Pantheon. It was the grandest of the many monuments that studded the immense plain of the Campus Martins. As the name indicates, this temple in pagan times was dedicated to all the Gods. It is a rotunda, and lies be- tween the Corso and the Piazza Navona. It was built in honor of Jupiter Avenger — in the year 27, before Christ, by Agrippa; and afterwards restored by Septimus Severus and Caracalla, in the year 202 of the Christian era. The interior is 142 feet in diameter ; the vast structure receives all its light from a circular open- ing in the roof. Boniface IV. converted this precious monument to Christian uses, consecrating it to the only true God, under the invocation of the blessed Virgin and the holy martyrs ; hence its name at present — Santa Maria ad Martyres. He transported hither from the catacombs twenty- eight chariot loads of the sacred remains of the martyrs, and placed in it an antique image of the Madonna which the chapter of Saint Peter's crowned in 1652, with a diadem of gold. Fifteen recesses practiced in the walls which are twenty- five feet in thickness, serve admirably for altars. Behind the third one on the left rest the remains of the immortal (ind Other Placet. 45 Raphael. Here, too, is kept the heart of the great and good Cardinal Consalvi, the faithful minister of Pius VII. The baths of Agrippa adjoined the Pantheon. Indeed it is thought that this temple was only a portion, one of the halls, of this immense edifice. From the Pantheon I went to visit the Church of San Andrea della Fratti, rendered famous by the apparition of the blessed Virgin, in 1842, to the Jew Ratisbonne, who immediately became a Christian, — became a priest and ended by going to Jerusalem to labor there for the con- version of his unhappy countrymen. The grand altar of this church is composed of precious marbles and bronze richly gilt. Its cost was eighty thousand scudi — quite enough to build a splendid church anywhere else. Leaving, we went on to " La Trinita di Monti," over- looking tliat very fashionable quarter the " Piazza d'Es- pagna." The " Trinita" was built by Charles VII. King of France, and now contains one of the finest frescoes ex- tant — the descent from the cross — by Vol terra. This noble church at present belongs to the ladies of the Sacred Heart ; their convent and academy adjoin it. It is here, painted on the wall of a vast corridor, that is to be seen the lovely picture called Mater Admirahilis. This spot has been converted into a chapel, and since the visit of the Pope in 1846, when he came to pray before it, has been renowned far and wide, and become a sort of pilgrimage. Catholics from all parts of the world love to visit this venerable shrine, to invoke her who uever fails those who seek her aid. 46 RecollectionM of Rome, Many beautiful ex votoa have hoonofterutl Ik'io in grati- tude for favors obtained. Through the kiinhu'ssof one of the ntins, we were favored with sonie of the oil from the lamps ever burning before tliis niiraculouH image. Before returning from our lengthy promenude wo en- tered the Churcli of St. Mary of Egypt, and vciiorated another miraculous pictuio of the Mad(jnna. The church .stands on the s'te — probably on the very foundation — of the temple of Fortuna Virilis, which is said to have been built by Servius Tullius, sixth King of Rome. Saint Pius V. gave this church to the Ambassador of the King of Armenia, for the use of the peo})le of that nation. It boasts of a very exact model of the " Holy Sepulchre." This afternoon we had also the pleasure of visiting the " Capitol,"' and its magnificent museums, con- taining a mine of wealth in statues, painting, bronzes and inscriptions. Here we feasted our eyes upon that master- piece, " The Dying Gladiator," so beautifully described by Byron in his " Childe Harold," and which Hell, a true critic, declares "a most tragical and touching representa- tion, upon which no one can meditate without the most melancholy feelings." " I see before me the gladiator lie : He leans upon his hand— his manly brow Consents to death, but conquers a^'ony. And Lis droop'd head finks gradiially low— And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one. Like the first of a thunder shower; and now The arena swims around him— he is gone, Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hail'd the wretch who won and Other Places. 4fr He heard it, but he heeded not- hin eyes Were with his heart, and that waH far away ; He reck'd not of the life he lout, nor prize, Diit where hin rude hut by the I>anul)v lay, There were Inn youn^ barbariaim all at | ity, Ind," Id in the gothic style of the thirteenth, or as some affirm, the twelfth century. The episcopal throne of Saint Sylvester is still to be seen here ;. columns from Pilate's house, one split in its whole length, from top to bottom, rent like the rocks on Good Friday ; the porphyry slab on which the soldiers cast lots for the seamless garment ; another supported on four pillars, six feet high, thought to be the exact stature of our Lord, and many other interesting objects from the holy city, the scene of the Redeemer's passion and death. During our visit, some Yankee ladies, finding that we spoke English, began to put us through our catechism, as to the authenticity of the m(muments here exhibited. Hailing from the land of wooden hams aud wooden nutmegs, evidently they would fain make others believe their country was not alone in imposition. However, when some of our party reminded them how scrupulously those objects were cherished, and that — if exhibited to those anxious to see them — it was always gratuitously, without the hope of a fee, and not as in Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's, and other similar places, where one must always have his sixpence ready, they thought " there was something in that," and if they did not admit everything was genuine yet concluded that tho.^e who guard these things with such religious care are not likely to be imposters. To-day (27th December), quite cold ; hailing in the morning. Third Session of the Council at St. Peter's — His Grace, the Archbishop of Baltimore — Dr. Spalding, celebrated the mass. Seven bishops addressed the august assembly. 52 liecollectlons of Rome, CHAPTER VL MY DIARY. January 1st, 1870 — Delightful day: .ool, but very fine, reminding us of our lovely October weather at home- Last evening with Father O'Reilly visited the monastery of the Santi Apostoli, to see the beautiful Christmas-crib: — not equal to that of the Franciscans, at the Ara-Coeli. In this church, dei Santi Apostoli, lie the remains of Clement XIV., a member of this monastery before his ele- vation to the throne of St. Peter. Michael Angelo died in this parish, March, 1614. Here his body reposed before being removed to Florence. Leaving the monastery, we hastened to the " Gesu " to see the arrival of the Pope, w^ho came to assist at the Benediction and Te Deum, in thanksgiving to God for the mercies of the year. His Holiness came in demi-gala, still the turn-out was very grand, and the enthusiasm of the multitude unbounded. As he drove up to the piazza, cheer upon cheer rent the air. The great church was densely crowded : thousands knelt outside to receive the blessing of the Vicar of Christ. To-day a papal chapel was held at St. Peter's : a great many bishops were present, and as usual an immense con- course of the faithful. The day —New Year's — was cold, but fine. Early in the morning I perceived a little ice in a shaded spot, on the street. In the evening we dined and Other Places. :)3 with Mr. O'Brien of New Orleans, at the " Minerva," and met His Lordship of Galveston, Texas ; and the vener- able Cure of the cathedral of New Orleans, who had just been named by the Pope — Prothonotary Apostolic. of zza, was the January 5th. — Cold, but fine clear day. After dinner drove out by the Porta di San Pancrazio, and to San Pietro in Montorio. Here Pius IX. intended placing the monumental column of the Vatican Council. This fine church, occupying one of the finest sites in Rome, was the late Cardinal Cullen's title. Tt stands upon the spot oc- cupied by the Arx Janiculensis, of Ancus Martins, and de- rives its name from the golden sand of which the hill is composed. The immortal Pius, in giving its first Cardinal to the martyr-nation, rendered the honor doubly precious by giving to his Eminence a temple dear to every Irish heart, as containing the ashes of Hugh O'Neil, son of the Earl of Tyrone, and of Roderick O'Donnell, Earl of Tyrconnell, who died in the eternal city, early in the l7th century. Froun Montorio is had the best view of Rome and the outlying country, from Soracte to the ends of the Alban hills, studded with their pretty villages and towns. Re- turning home, we passed a small enclosure with a monu- ment erected by the Pope, to mark the place where the head of the apostle St. Andrew, stolen during the revolu- tion, was fortunately recovered, To-night our rooms are quite co.sy ; we have fire for the 51 Recollectiona of Rome, first time — and we almost fancy ourselves in Canada — " the dearest spot on earth to me." Some of our clerical friends have much grander apartments; but none of them are really as comfortable as we. Monseigneur thinks of everything but himself. January 6th. — After my mass, celebrated in the room in which lived for some time, St. Catharine of Sienna* there being a function, I drove over to St. Peter's. The Pope was present at the throne and received the obedi- ence of the Cardinals. His Holiness looked well, and his fine, clear, sonorous voice was I'emarked by all. I left before the ceremony was over and with some friends visited some of the neighboring churches. It was a lovely morning. We ascended the hill to St. Onuphrio, from which we had an enchanting view of the city. In this church is the tomb of Tasso, and over it his portrait. A splendid mausoleum is being erected to his memory by Pius IX.. who seems, in his fatherly care, to forget nothing. Attached to San Onuphrio are two cemeteries, beautiful- ly kept ; in one the " Holy Way of the Cross " is frescoed upon the walls. Dark cypress trees shade this hallowed place, so worthy of the dead. In the afternoon I went to hear one of the French bishops preach at San Andrea della Valle. The audience was large; the sermon very much appreciated. The and Other Places. 65 French clergy, as a rule, are distinguished for rare elo- quence. Over the grand altar of this church, which has one of the most perfect of domes, there is during the Christmas feasts a life-size representation of the adoration of the wise men. January 8th. — This morning was held another Session of the Council. Heard the Archbishop of Baltimore preach this afternoon. Subject — " Conversion of the Na- tions." Speaking of the bishops assembled, he said : One had travelled 21,000 miles, in obedience to the voice of the Vicar of Christ. January 11th. — Being very fine, after dinner I drove with His Lordship — Mgr. Horan to the beautiful Church of Santa Agnese, f uori le mura (outside the walls). Under the Confession lie the bodies of St. Agnes and of her foster sister, St. Emerentiana. Hard by, we also visited the church built by Constan- tine, in the year 324, over the place where the body of this sweet little saint was found. It is a rotunda, giving one an excellent idea of the churches of the fourth century. It possesses some of the rarest mosaics. There is also the splendid bust of our Lord in white marble, the work of Michael Angelo. 56 Recollections of Rome, In 1854, Pius IX. visited the Convent and Church of St. Agnes. A vast crowd greeted His Holiness. The floors of this hall in which they were assembled gave way — yet no one was injured seriously — a truly miraculous escape. The 12th of April, anniversary of this accident, and which corresponds with the date of the Pope's return from Gaeta, is celebrated with great solemnity. In thanks- giving to God for his escape, Pius IX. ordered th-e restora- tion of the Basilica at his own expense. To-day, for the first time, I visited the catacombs, and saw in many of the loculi skulls, a vial tilled with martyr's blood ; and other relics of the early church. We were honored in the evening with a visit from my Lord of Hamilton, the good, the amiable Bishop Farrell — "be- loved of God and men." Alas ! that he was not spared longer to the Clmrch of Canada. January 12th. — Pleasant day ; drove out on the Appian road to San Sebastian©. Under the altar reposes the body of this saint. In a side chapel, also beneath an altar, is a splendid life-size statue, recumbent, of this glorious confessor of the faith, whose name the late Cardinal Wiseman has rendered so familiar in his exquisite work — " Fabiola." We descended into the catacombs and saw the place where Saint Cecilia's body had been laid, and the resting- places of Saints Tiburtius and Valerianus. Here, too, were pointed out to us the Sarcophagus of St. 11'' I ri and Other Places. 57 jlace bing- )fSt. Stephen, pope and martyr; and the chapel, or cubiculum, with the altar, at which he offered the holy Sacrifice; on the tabernacle are figures of the child Jesus and two lovely little boy angels. Elsewhere they showed us the marble cross formerly placed above the Pontiff's chair. On the Appian way is met the little church of the " Domine, quo vadis." An ancient tradition relates that St. Peter, fleeing by night from the persecution of Nero, met near this place his Divine Master. " Whither goest thou, O Lord" — exclaimed the apostle. Jesus answered hira, " I am going to Rome, to be cruci- fied again." St. Peter understood the reproach ; returned to the city, and soon after sealed his love and his faith with his life's blood. Farther on, about two miles from the Porta di San Sebastiano, is the famous tomb of Cecilia Metella, erected to her upwards of nineteen centuries ago. It resembles a martello tower ; and such is its solidity, that in the ISth century, the Caetanis used it as a fortress Lord Byron in his " Childe Harold" has thrown a halo around this venerable tomb, that leads to it an additional interest, for all the lovers of his immortal lays : There is a stern round tower of other days Firm as a fortress, with its fence of stone, Such as an army's baffled strength delays, Standing with half its battlements alone, And with two thousand years of ivy grown, The garland of eternity, where wave The green leaves over all by time o'erthrown ; — What was this tower of strength? within its cave What treasure lay so lock'd, so hid ? — A woman',s grave." — Btron. 58 Recollections of Rome, January 14th. — To-day we strayed among the ruins of the baths of Caracalla, and near by in a vineyard ex- amined the remains of a beautiful house, lately discovered far beneath the surface. Many rooms, as well as the atrium, are well preserved. The coloring of the walls and the frescoes seem as if executed but a few years ago. Collected within this vineyard are marbles, portions of statues, busts, amphorae, lamps, vases and numerous other vestiges of days gone by. Another session of the Vatican Council was held this morning at St. Peter's. Letters from Canada ! how welcome ! On the invitation of Monsignor Kirby, we dined at the Irish College, with His Eminence Cardinal Cullen, and several Australian and Irish bishops. January 14th. — This morning, Bishop McGill, of Rich- mond, Virginia, preached at San Andrea della Valle. In the afternoon, at the same place, I had the pleasure of hearing the celebrated Mgr. Pie, of Poictiers, who de- livered a most telling discourse upon the infallibility of the Pope ; proving from the writings of St. Hilary, formerly Bishop of the same See, that even in the days of that great saint the Catholic world believed that the Roman Pontiff, in faith and morals, teaching as Head of the Church, was divinely preserved from error. Mgr. Pie, later on, was created a Cardinal, by Pius IX. and Other Places, 59 this Here also, Bishop Ullathorno, of Birmingham, preached. The sermon I relished above all others was that of His Grace the Archbishop of Westminster. For an hour and fifteen minutes he held his audience spell-bound, while he spoke on the " Unity of the Church." The Doctor, now Cardinal Manning, is a man of most intellectual, ascetic, appearance. Everything is in his favor ; his manner, his gestures, his voice, his saintly look. The vast audience was enraptured with his masterly discourse. Announcing at the close of his sermon a col- lection for the propagation of the faith, he paid a beauti- ful tribute to the piety of dear old long-suffering Ireland, and to that other generous, noble nation — her sister — fair Catholic France. ' Rich- ie. [easure lio de- lity of Lilary, lays of at the Lead of Mgr. January 17th. — This afternoon the students of the Propaganda gave their celebrated polyglot stance, at which addresses were delivered in thirty different lan- guages. Cardinal Barnabo presided ; great many foreign- ers present. A negio from Senegarabia, and but lately ordained priest, spoke and apparently very eloquently. At the close of the session, five little fellows returned thanks in verse in five languages ; and roars of laughter greeted the last who concluded his rhyme with, — " And as a certain great nation would say, Arrali ! may your shadows never grow less." The College of the Projiaganda was founded in 1622 by Gregory XV., for the purpose of educating as mission- 60 Recollections of Rome, aries young foreigners from intidel or heretical countries, wlio might afterwards return and spread the Catholic faith among their countrymen. Urban VIII. erected the present building. The library contains uj)ward8 of 30,000 volumes. A printing office, rich in Oriental types, is at- tached to the Propaganda. Over two hundred students receive their education gratis, — everything being supplied to them in this world-renowned institution. The diocese of Kingston once counted among its priests several who had studied within these classic halls : Dr. (Jhisholm, Drs. Patrick and John Madden, and others. January 19th. — This morning, being the festival of the Chair of St. Peter, I went to the great Basilica, and being fortunate enough to secure a place near the " Con- fession," saw to great advantage the ceremonies of the day. His Holiness was present at the throne, and entered and left the church in the " Sede Geslatoria," As usual, there was an immense throng ; many cardinals and bishops assisted at the functions. We spent the afternoon among the splendid paintings of the Colonna palace, one of the finest in Rome. The picture gallery is open every day except Sunday. Three halls decorated with most precious tapestries are met before entering those devoted to the paintings. and Other Places. 61 tings The Three met January 20th. — To-day we visited the Vatican library and the great paintings. The collection in small, but the moat valuable in the world. The " Last Communion of Jerome," and the " Trans- figuration," by Raphael, are here — the only place on earth worthy of them. The former is acknowledged as Domeni- chino's masterpit'ce, and the glory of the Bologriese school. The latter is the last and greatest effort of the "divine Raphael," and alone would immortalize him. The Vatican library, counting the galleries opening from it, is twelve hundred feet in length. A charming visit was also made to the splendid collec- tion of Prince Borghese, comprising 800 pictures, distri- buted in twelve halls. The Roman nobility kindly throw open their magnifi- cent halls to the public. Here were many young artists, male and female, copying the lovely pictures. A fine drive on the Appian road, for about five miles, filled up the afternoon. Besides other interesting sights was that of the baths of Caracalla. During our drive we saw much of the Carapagna, and of the immense ruins, of the ancient aqueducts. The distant mountains were capped with snow, and the gorge- et in a cloudless heaven, lent additional beauty scene. Though far away, we could see distinctly fie • 'int old towns of Frascati, Monte Rotondo, Mon- tona — celebrated by the bravery of the Papal Zouaves — and Rocca di Papa. On our way we met the celebrated Bishop of Orles , Mgr. Dupanloup, and Mgr. Maret, both just then muc^ ^)oken of as Inopportunists. 62 Recollections of Rome, Being the festival of Sts. Fabian and Sebastian, we visited their church and venerated their relics. The head of the former is kept in a silver and crystal case. We descended into the catacombs of this church and saw the place where the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul were first entombed. January 21st. — At St. Agnes' — outside the walls — for the ceremony of the blessing of the lambs, the wool of which is afterwards spun by nuns and made into Palliums destined for archbishops. The ceremony, new of course to us, was interesting. His Eminence Cardinal Barrili oflBciated and in the sanctuary, besides the mitred Abbot of the monastery, there were six priests in chasubles and eight wearing dalmatics. The lambs were carried in on silver dishes, after the mass, and placed upon the altar. An occasional bleating was heai'd, cauf-'ng much merriment among the looke'^s on. The music was excellent. I assisted at vespers in another church on the Piazza Navona, dedicated to the saint, and which stands upon the \7^ery site of her martyr- dom. The office was pontifical ; the singing superb and evi- dently much appreciated by the large and very fashion- able assemblage, principally foreigners. In the basement of this church is shown the locum, tur- pitudinis where the young saint was exposed and where and Other Ptacea. 63 she was visibly protected by an angel. The inscription runs thus : — " Ingressa Agnes turpitudinis locum ange- lum Domini proeparatuvi invenit." A bas-relief over the altar represents the saint miraculously covered by her hair. January 23rd. — To-day His Eminence Cardinal de Bonnechose, Monsignor Fessler, Secretary of the Council, and other dignitaries dined at the French Seminary, where we boarded. Of course we had all de sumptuosi- ties oh de season. The Cardinal, now dead, was tall, dis- tinguished-lookiu^;, and rather handsome. The Mgr. could lay claim to none of these, but ho doubt was a clever man to be selected for such an important rdle by the Pontiff. His Eminence had been a lawyer in France, and a Huguenot, as Protestants are termed there. Yesterday, though disagreeable, wet and cold, did not prevent my usual promenade. With Bishop Grimley, of Cape Town, South Africa, a most saintly man, since gone to his reward, and his Secretary, Father O'Reilly, author of the " Martyrs of the Coliseum," etc., I paid a most interesting visit to San Pietro in Vincoli, a grand basi- lica situated on the northern part of the Esquiline Hill^ Here we venerated the very chains with which St. Peter had been bound, and assisted at Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament, at which a Cardinal officiated. This church was built in the year 442, by Eudoxia, wife 64 Recollections of Rome, of the Emperor Valentinian III. "There is seen the Moses of Michael Angelo, one of the most celebrated pro- ductions of his gigantic genius." Here Popes John II., in 532, and St. Gregory, in 1073, were elected to the Sovereign Pontificate. The street before this church is supposed to correspond with the Vicus-Sceleratua, through which Tullia drove her car over the dead body of her father. The Papal choir was present at Benediction, and sang one of the most exquisite litanies ever composed. We spent a pleasant evening at Madam M 's, meeting a very select company, among which was the Archbishop of Calcutta, several bishops from Ireland, and other persons of note. January 24th. — This morning to San Augustine- This church was built by William — Guillaume d'Estouteville, Archbishop of Rouen, Cardinal under Eugene IV., and Dean of the Sacred College. The cupola was the first raised at Rome ; it dates from 1580. The frescoes, paint- ings, marbles and gildings are very fine. The church is much frequented by women in delicate health, who come to pray before the miraculous statue of the Madonna, who here, as elsewhere, seems never to be invoked in vain. In the monastary adjoining this church is the Bibliotheca Angelica, so named from Cardinal Angelo Rocca, who founded it in 1605. It is the third most important in Rome ; it possesses and Other Places. 66 Isses 90,000 printed works, and 3,000 manuscripts, many of which are Chinese, Syrian and Coptic. In the afternoon I went again to St. Peter's, spending hours among its wonders, and taking in the " Pieta di Michael Angelo ;" the great mosaic of San Sebastian© ; the splendid statue of Innocent XII. ; the superb tombs of Gregory XIII. and of the two Alexanders — VII. and V^III, with their indescribable bas-reliefs ; the meeting of Attila by Pope Leo ; the crucifixion of the Prince of the Apostles ; the apparition of our Lord to St. Thomas, and many other noble creations that could be inspired only by religion, and that — divine. Beneath the altar surmounted by the gorgeous mosaic of the death of St. Pet'^r, repose the bodies of Sts. Simon and Jude. Another great mosaic is that where the apostle is represented raising Tabitha to life. The tombs of Pius VII. and Pius VIII. excite univer- sal admiration — and then we come upon another en- chanting mosaic, bright in its coloring as the plumage of some tropical bird, almost a perfect copy of Rome and the world's greatest conception — the " Transfiguration" — the last and greatest of the works of the great master, Raphael, cut off" in the prime of life, at the early age of thirty-seven. Explevit tempora viulta ! This afternoon the Pope came to the Sdminaire-Fran- cais, to visit the illustrious Bishop of Nimes, Monseigneur Plantier, who had by his vigorous writings ably defended the doctrin-^ of the infallibility — and who was then dangerously ill. His Holiness remained with the good bishop about quarter of an hour, and afterward, in the grand Salon of the Seminary, admitted the communit}'^ and the priests — their guests — to the kissing of his feet. 66 Recollections of Rome, His Holiness charmed all by his kind manner and affability, having a little gracious word for each one pre- sented to him. Unfortunately I was, as usual, off visiting ; the churches and other monuments, and thus missed thew,:, papal audience. January 27th. — Called to-day at the Irish College, and returning went into the " Gesu" — the principal church of the Jesuits in Rome. Here, above the altar of Saint Ignatius, is the largest and finest piece of lapis-lazuli, known; a most costly marble, — It is in the form of a globe, and supports the solid silver statue of the saint, of fabulous price. Another charming drive out to the great St. Paul's, which one never tires of visiting. Vespers were going on ; a large number of strangers was present : the music was very good. The portraits of all the Roman Pontiffs — in gorgeous mosaics— from St. Peter, adorn the upper part of the interior of this magnificent basilica, beyond doubt, interiorly, the second grandest in Rome. January 29th. — Walked out with Lieutenant Murray to the famous Ponte Salaro. This bridge was constructed of huge square blocks of red-stone-tufa, and dates back to the oldest Roman period. and Other Places. 67 In October, 1867, it was blown up by the papal troops in order to prevent the entry of Garibaldi's ruffians. A little beyond this bridge lies the plain where many bloody encounters took place between the Romans and the Etruscans, under the kings ; and particularly that of the Fidenates and Veientes, which resulted in the de- struction of Alba-Longa, by TuUius Hostilius, through the treachery of Mettus Fufetius, the leader of the aux- ilaries from this town. We passed a farm, now the property of the Irish Col- lege, containing the catacombs of Santa Priscilla. Strange to say, here was discovered the body of Saint Celestine, the pope that sent St. Patrick to preach to the Irish na- tion. Being not a little fatigued by our very long walk, we refreshed ourselves at a little way side Osteria, where we got some light, but delicious wine, and for almost nothing How often, when abroad, have we regretted the want of some such harmless drink for our people. In France and Italy no one is ever — scarcely ever — seen intoxicated. The wine often is generous enough to send a pleasant glow through the veins, and even warm the countenance ; but one does not see the blear eyes, the red red nose, the purple streaks, like clotted gore, that but too plainly tell the depth and frequency of the potations of many people in our own country and clearly indicate the " valitudinarian debauchee." The urchin that waited on us had a sore head, and vividly recalled to my mind Dr. Johnson's story of the pudding in the Highland inn. Before drinking, however, we rinsed our glasses, — the lad apparently wondering at such fastidiousness. 68 Recollections 0/ Rome, This was my longest walk — about six miles — since I came to Rome. We drove a great deal, and Monseigneur insists on always paying for the carriage. This he claims as his privilege — and of course one must yield. His heart was certainly in the right place. January 31st. — Saw His Holiness as he passed in his carriage ; knelt and received his benediction. He honored the American College to-day with a visit, and granted an audience to the bishops, clergy and students. This morn- ing I paid a visit to Mgr. MacEvilly, of Galway, now Archbishop of Tuam, successor to the late John McHale — O'Connell's " Lion of Judah." While in Rome I frequently met their lordships, the Bishops of Limerick, Galway, and the coadjutor of Killa- loe — amiable and saintly Dr. Power. With them I was always a welcome guest, and most warmly and graciously received ; and when leaving Rome, their lordships gave me the most flattering introduction to their respective clergy. Since returning to Canada I had the honor to receive a letter of thanks from His Grace of Tuam, acknowledging the cheque for one hundred pounds sterling, sent to him by me, for his suffering people. This was one of the many noble contributions of the generous and pious Catholics of St. Francis Xavier's,Brock- ville, ever ready and willing to correspond with every appeal of their pastor. God be with them ! and Other Places. 69 A goodly part of the afternoon was devoted to San Clemente. We went to venerate the relies of St. Igna- tius of Antioch — it being his feast ; and to hear the great Dominican, Father Tom Burke, who was to pronounce the panegyric of the saint. The eloquent preacher always attracted large and dis- tinguished audiences. To-day he almost surpassed him self ; his discourse was listened to with unspeakable de- light by the vast concourse assembled, English-speaking, of course. Leaving this ancient basilica, built by Paschal II. in 1099-1118, I again entered the Coliseum, and, kneeling at the cross planted in the centre, prayed fervently to God. and the glonous martyr who, in this very place, 1760 years before, had died — torn to pieces by wild beasts— for the faith of the One, holy, Cathojie and Apos- tolic Church. (The subjoined are from the Bishops of Limerick and Gal way : " C«»H liev. D. Isaac Joannes MacGarthy sit dignissimus Sacerdos celebret in Dioecesi. Galvieni, d-. tfc. — Eum clero nostro maxitnopere commendavins. " t Joannes Epis. Galviensis Ete. ing lim the Eome—Die 26 AprUis, 1870. " Celebret in Dioecesi Limericensi, cujus clero eum vehementer com- mendanitts." t Geokgius Butler. Epis. Limericensis . Datum Romce, Die 25 Aprilis, 1870. What enhances the great kindness of these distin- guished prelates is, these letters were not solicited — 70 Recollections of Rome, needless to say these documents are still preserved and dearly cherished by the recipient. Febbuary 2nd. — Festival of the Purification of the Blessed Virgin Mary — Candlemas da}'. His Lordship and I reached St. Peter's just in time to see the entry of the Pope, who was carried in the " Sede- Gestatoria." After blessing the candles. His Holiness distributed them to the cardinals, bishops, royal personages and to the members of the diplomatic corps. The procession then moved through the great chyrch, Pius IX. being again borne on his throne, holding a lighted taper in his hand, and fervently praying as he passed along. He wore a Roman purple cope and the white mitre. On our return home, Mgr., with his usual kindness, gave me the large waxen candle presented to him at the ceremony by the Sovereign Pontiff. I still cherish this precious souvenir ; it is much shorter than originally — pieces of it having been given to pious friends. His Lordship of Galway gave me a little work to-day on devotion to St. Joseph, my great protector. The Cardinal Archbishop of Bordeaux and several strange bishops dined at the French Seminary ; it was a grand affair. and Other Places. 71 ork eral as a February 3rd. — This morning, in company with the Rev. Abb^ Simonis, of Alsace, and his young friend, we left for Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, a city of the Sicarri, which was founded nearly five centuries before Rome, whose rival it was, until reduced to obedience by Camillus. We were favored with beautiful weather ; my com- panions were most charming men — wonderfully enter- taining. We spent a delightful day visiting the curiosities of this ancient town, and many objects of interest that ren- der Tivoli so attractive. We climbed the hills hundreds of feet, with little don- keys, most sure-footed beasts, and gazed with wondering admiration upon the lovely scenery. The cascatelli or falls, the mountain peaks, the deep valleys, the world of charms of this almost enchanted place. In the distance we could see the dome, " the vast and wondrous dome," of St. Peter's standing out in all its magnitude and beauty against the evening sky. At the Locanda della Sibilli we had a capital dinner, with abundance of excellent wine, and all for a trifle. My Alsatian friends, though like all their countrymen, French to the back- bone, had retained sufficient of the German to prefer the excellent beer which was to be had in this Locanda, not usually the case in those small Italian inns. We turned our horses towards the city a little after six, and reached Rome about 9 p.m., where my lord was patiently awaiting my return. I entertained Monseigneur until quite late with a description of our visit to this 72 Recollections of Rome, most interesting old town, which he had visited years before. Feuruary 5th. — Sunday, bright, sparkling day. De- lightful weather, lovely ; beautiful as the middle of June beneath our northern skies. Another visit to the Pantheon — as already said, the gieatest of the great monuments of the Campus Martins ; and in the afternoon a drive to the Ponte Molle, two miles fi'om the city. This famous bridge was first built bj^^ the Censor Mar- cus iEmilius Scaurus. It was on this bridge the envoys of the Allobroges engaged in the Catiline conspiracy were arrested by order of Cicero, 63 before Christ ; and from its parapets the body of Maxentius was thrown into the Tiber, after being defeated by Constantine five miles further up on the Flaminian way : — Via Flaminia. The present bridge, anciently called Pons Milvius was nearly rebuilt by Pius IX. On our way home, after a charming outing, we visited the Church of San Pancrazio, erected in the year 272 by Pope St. Felix, in honor of this heroic boy who suffered martyrdom at the age of fourteen. This church is rich in historical souvenirs. Within its walls St. Gregory the Great delivered his twenty-seventh homily on the Gospel of St. John. Here, Peter of Arragon was crowned by Innocent III., and Other Places. 73 and later on here John XXII. received Louis, King ot Naples. The French soldiers devastated this sanctuary in 1798, and again it was polluted by the wretched hordes of the monster Garibaldi, in 181)9. During the siege of Rome it was the centre of the opoi-ations of the French troops. In this church was buried Crescentius Nomentatus, the celebrated ruler of Rome in the 10th century. Here also Narses, after having defeated Totila, met the Pope and cardinals, and marched in procession to St. Peter's to re- turn thanks. The remains of St. Pancratius and St. Vic- tor are deposited in the Confession. ras [ted by Ired [•ich Ithe spel II.. February 7th. — Another delightful afternoon at St. Peter's. Months and months might bo spent in this mag- nificent templo and still there would be much to see and to admire. Those who spend but a few weeks in Rome can know and see but little of the wonders of the eternal city. After adoring the Blessed Sacrament, I told my beads at the tomb of the apostles, praying fervently for the loved ones in my far-off Canadian home. The last rays of the setting sun cast their golden light through the vast basilica, as I turned to leave it, and the words of the Roj'al psalmist came vividly to my mind : " Lord, I have loved the glory of thy house, and the place where thy glory dwelleth," words which must have often E W:, 74 RecoUediona of Home, Ipll escaped the dying lips of succoasive pontiffH, who did so much and spent such vast sums on this glorious temple. On my promenade, twice I met the carriage of His Holiness, and each time received his benediction. How often, already, he has blessed me ! Mgr. Horan dined to- day with Monseigneur de Quimper, a grand old bishop, and Louis Venillot, the distinguished editor of the Univera the famous antagonist of Monseigneur Dupan- loup, Bishop of Oi leans. Venillot resembled the late George Clerk, of the True Wit^ieaa, more than enough to pass for his brother. Last night a little, very little snow fell, all gone this morning. We spent a very pleasant evening at the palaitial residence of Madam M , who had kindly invited His Lordship and me to a soiree musicale, the performers being all pro- fessional, and of a very high order. The drawingroom presented a most brilliant appearance, and the concert proved a great success ; the very distinguished audience — lay and clerical — left, enchanted with the delightful en- tertainment, and the charming hospitality of the noble hostess. February 8th. — This morning we were honored by a visit from His Grace, Mgr. Bnillargeon, and his Vicar- General, now the Cardinal Archbishop of Quebec, and formerly one of our professors in the seminary of the an- cient capital. To-day, with Bishop Grimly and his sec- retary, I visited the Monastery of the Passionists — m and Other Places. 75 their head-quarters in Rome — near St. Jolin's of Lateran, to venerate the Scala Santa, which we ascended on our knees. They arc never trodden by man's foot. The great statues, on either side, are the gift of Pius IX., whose munificent generosity is met with so often. We passed a most pleasant evening at the Minerva, with the Bishops of Limerick, Oalway, and Kilialoe. I by a '^icar- and |e an- sec- Ists — February 9th. — Another summer's day. Strolled by the Piazza d'Espagna to the beautiful grounds of the Acaddmie Imperial Frangais, from which one has a fine view of Rome and its surroundings. Thence to the Pincio, where a gay crowd had assembled to hear the s{)lendid band of the French Legion, one of the best in the service. Last evening His Holiness presented our friend, Mgr Lootens, Vicar Apostolic of Idaho, with a handsome cameo ring. Another Session of the Council this morning. To- day on my way home — with another young priest — we met Monseigneur de Quimper driving alone. His lord- ship stopped the carriage — got out — paid the hackman — and insisted on our taking his place, while he returned to the Seminary on foot. February 10th. — Visited the Basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme (Holy Cross of Jerusalem), built upon 76 Recollections of Rome, the site of the gardens of Sextus VariuSj the father of Heliogabalus. The Sesaorian palace, within the enclosure, was in- habited by the latter emperor ; afterward by his succes- sor Alexander Severus, and later by St. Helen, mother of Constantine the Great. The noble basilica was the work of the latter : it wag consecrated by Pope St. Sylvester, restored by Gregory II. in the seventh century, and put in its present state by Benedict XIV. in 1743. Here we venerated several precious relics : three pieces of the true cross, each about nine inches long, by one-and- a-half wide. The color of the wood is a light brown. We saw one of the nails used in the crucifixion, some of the thorns of our Saviour's crown, and the title of the cross, the letters being still very distinct. Qiiite a large piece of the cross of the " Good Thief," and a finger of St. Thomas are here preserved most re- ligiou.sly. A reliquary belonging to Gregory the Great was also exhibited. Beneatli the fiooring of one of the chapels, is earth brouglit from Mount Calvary by the Ein}>re.ss St. Helena ; and under the high altar, in a fine basaltic urn, rest the bodies of the martyrs Cesareus and Anastasius. The iumiense frescoes en the ceiling are very beautiful. They were executed by Pinturechio in 1470, and are atill wonderfully fresh. Here the Pope consecrates ihd Agnus Dei, on Passion Sunday. From here we drove to Santa Sabina, on Mount Aven- tine, which was consecrated by Sixtus III. in the year 440. and Other Places. 77 iful. are tll3 •en- |44(X It was constituted a station for Ash- Wednesday, by Gregory the Great ; hither came the Sovereign Pontiffs to receive the blessed ashes. The present rnonantery — Dominican — was once a pon- titical palace, and inhabited by many popes. A part of it was given by Honorius III. to St. Dominic, when he gave him the church. Here sojourned St, Raymond de Pennafort, St. Thomas Aquinas, St. Hyacinth — the light of Poland, — his brother St. Ceslas, St. Pius V., and many other great men, emi- nent for their learning and sanctity. We visited the cells, now chapels, of St. Pius and St. Dominic, venerating the miraculous crucifix of the former. This church glories in the possession of Sassoferati's great masterpiece — the Madonna with the child Jesus, who is handing a Rosary to Saint Catharine of Sienna, kneeling before him, while St. Dominic is opposite the Blessed Virgin. This is one of the loveliest paintings I have ever seen. The faces of the saints are angelic ; the effect of light and shade upon St. Catharine's, simply marvellous. In the garden of the monaster}^ is an orange tree planted by St. Dominic 682 years ago — (1870) — and still, like the great religious family he established, bearing fruit. One of the Rev. Fathers graciously presented me witi. some of its leaves, still in my possession. When the great Lacordaire restored the Order in France, this tree sent forth a new shoot, which bore fruit the seme year. Hero again, from a small tribune on which opens a door of the monastery, we enjoyed a grand view of St. Peter's, the Vatican, arid the transtiberine country. 78 Recollections of Rome, On our way home we passed a couple of ancient tem- ples, now consecrated to religion, and inspected the huge arch of Janus, near the Cloaca Maxima. On the whole, this was one of the most charming days I have spent in Rome. Monseigneur Lootens accompanied us to-da5\ His Lordship is like a young student — a very profound one, it must be admitted — and we are never happier than when he is with us in our drives. His conversational powers are remarkable, and though he has a slight foreign accent, he expresses himself with all the accuracy of our most polished speakers. February 13th. — A visit to-day to the Quirinal Palace, situated on Monte Cavallo. This palace is immense — worthy of the Sovereign Pon- tiffs. Painting.s, frescoes, gilding, sculptures, tapestries, thrones in crimson and gold, meet the eye constantly, and in their gorgeousness arwi profusion seem to vie with each other in splendour. We visited the apartments of the Pope, and the room in which Pius VII. was taken prisoner by the orders of Napoleon. Cardinal Pacca accompanied His Holiness to France. The palace gardens are very extensive, and of course most artistically laid out and kept. From the Quirinal we entmed to the little church oppo- site, where the Blessed Sacrament is always exposed — by night as well &6 day. and Other Places. 79 Crowds were kneeling in adoration, while from beyond the grate came the sweet voices of the holy nuns reciting the divine office. It reminded me strongly of my humble little church at Williamstown, where our faithful people came in such numbers to the sublime devotion of the " Forty Hours' Prayer." * Further on we visited the Franciscan Church, and San Carlo alle Quatro Fontana, which church and convent occupy just the same space that is covered by one of the columns that support the dome of St. Peter's. Then to St Bernard's and St. Mary's of the Angels — formerly portions of the vast baths of Diocletian. February 17th. — To-day the Pope went in grand state to open the Exhibition of Christian Art. An immense crowd had assembled, and the cheering, as His Holiness drove up and descended from his carriage, was most en- thusiastic. He passed very closely to me. The day was cloudy, but fortunately the rain kept off until the papal cortege had returned to the Vatican and the vast con- course had dispersed. At dinner I had the honor of reading the " Lecture " in Latin, much to the amusement of Nos Seigneurs the French bishops. His Lordship Mgr. de Beauvais, Noyon et Senli), pre- sented me with his portrait ; no doubt as a reward for the amusement my foreign accent afforded him. After 1 aving Rome I received a charming letter from 80 Recollections of Rome, this most distinguished prelate, kindly inviting me to visit him at Beauvais, near Paris. Indeed I received many marks of esteem from the French bishops and clergy of the Sdminaire Fran^ais. February 18th. — A very interesting visit to-day, — the fine old church of the Capuchins — Santa Maria della Con- cezione. As wPi enter, in the first chapel, on the right is Guido's magnificent painting, " St. Michael crushing the devil beneath his feet." This is considered one of Rome's best pictures. An English critic calls it the Catholic Apollo. " Like the Belvidere God, he says, the Archangel breathes that digni- fied vengeance which animates without distorting ; while the very devil derives importance from his ivUgust adver- sary, and escapes the laugh which his figure usually pro- vokes." Cardinal Barberini, brother of Urban VIII., for whom this picture was painted, is buried here before the high altar. His tomb is marked by the simple yet grand in- scription on the pavement : " Hie jacet pulvis, cinis, et nihil ; " Here lie dust, ashes, and nothing. In the chapel oi>posite Guido's archangel is seen the *' Convei^sion of St. Paul," one of Pietro da Cortona's best efforts. At the gospel side of the grand altar is the tomb of Prince Alexander Sobieski, son ol: John III., King of Poland; he died in Rome in 1744. and Other Places. 81 We visited, beneath the church, the four vaulted cham- bers, where the monks lie buried. The bones of the dead are arranged here in a most sin- gular manner, forming garlands, wreaths— decorating, if such could decorate, these ghastly chambers. Some of the bodies are placed standing, others reclining in niches made among the bones ; the accumulation of two centuries. The place of interment being small, when a monk dies he is buried in the oldest grave, and the bones of the last occupant removed here. Those we saw had on the same habit in which they had been buried ; to the face of some still clint; the hard and shrivelled skin. On the whole it was a hideous sight, and to us seems un- worthy of the dead. The earth here was originally brought from Jerusalem. Beneath the altar reposes the body of the Blessed Ciispin of Viterbo, a lay brother of the order of Capuchins. He died the 10th of May, 1730, and was beatified by Pius VII., the 7th of S»3ptember, 1806. the }St nb of Febuuary, 19th. — From a window in the Doria palace on, the corso, we had much pleasure watching the Ccirni- val festivities. When the great bell of the Capitol had tolled, the Governor of Romj proceeded from the Piazza del Popolo, followed by the Senator or Mayor, in great state. Men on horseback headed the cortege, and im- mediately after the Senator came a grand empty carriage, 82 Recollections of Rome, and then six superb ones, having emblazoned upon the doors and panels the — S. P. Q. R. — the initials of the senatorial and civil authority. Seiiatus populus que Romanus. Many musicians were mounted, while a much greater number, a splendid band, came on foot. . It was really a fine turnout. The horses racing, rider- less, was as exciting as it was novel to us. The strewing of confetti from the windows and balconies on the passers- by, caused much merriment, and many a hearty laugh at the expense of the poor unfortunates, who were whitened from head to foot. No respect of persons ; a distinguished French Abbd was powdered, from head to foot. All was taken most good naturedly, not the slightest annoyance being manifested ; the more they were pelted the more they enjoyed it. No drunken man was to be seen upon the streets, and the thousands, after the fun was over, dispersed as quietly as on a market-day. The police li.ive y little to do on these occasions. The pop- ulation beh{< themselves like a lot of good-natured school-boj's. At one of the windows in a palace opposite to us occasionally appeared the venerable Cardinal di Moreno, and some other Spanish bishops and priests, tak- ing the least little peep — tant-aoit-peu — at the |)erfor- mance, which they seemed to relish immensel}^ February 20th. — After dinner Mgr. Horan, ivigr. Lootens and I drove out by the Porta del Popolo, to Ponte and OtJier Places. 88 Molle, along the Tiber, in by the Porta A.ngelica, north of St Peter's, and out again by the Porta Cavallagieri, up to the beautiful fountain, Aquae Paulinae ; thence to Mon- torio, where the column commemorative of the Vatican Council is to be erected ; returning to the city by the Porta San Pancrazio, making a most delightful and in- structive afternoon. In the evening I attended a dramatic performance in the CoUegio Nazaiino, situated near the Fontana di Trevi. It was all Italian, and hence to me un- intelligible. Still I much enjoyed the fine music, the rich costumes, the splendid scenery, and, apparently, the very elegant acting. The audience seemed very much pleased. I have never seen anything so well produced in a'n educa- tional establishment ; one might easily have imagined himself in a first-class opera house. This college was founded in 1622, by Cardinal Michael Angelo Conti de Rimini. It is chiefly frequented by the children of the Roman nobility and gentry, and is conducted by the Re- ligious of Saint Joseph Calascantius. The attendance is limited, but Rome abounds in schools for rich and poor. February 22nd. — Another general congregation of the Council this morning. New regulations given to the Most Reverend Fathers To the Irish College ; and then to call upon the Countess de S . Visit to St. Mary Major's, and home b}"- the Trinta di Monte, Piazza d'Es- pagna, and the Via di Condotti, remarkable for the num- ber end magnificence of its jewellery establishments ; 84 Recollections of Rome, across the Corso, -and by the Pantheon, to our snng quar- ters, No. 67, Santa Chiara, opposite the French Seminary. Immense crowds attending the Carnival — still in full blaze; and yet the churches are not forgotten. The " Forty Hours" prayer is being kept at the " Minerva," and many kneel in adoration before the God of the Eucharist — the " Word made flesh and dwelling amongst us." February 23rd. — A red-letter day. Seven a.m. saw us en route for the far-famed Subiaco, forty-four miles from Rome, the cradle of the great Benedictine Family. The morning was clear and cold — very cold for this lovely climate : ice had formed in the gutters. We rested and dined at Tivoli. The dinner might have been much better — considering the charges. The Locanda della Sibilla is not celebrated for its menu — nor for cleanliness. Hunger is good sauce, how- ever ; we could not complain of our appetite. We visit- ed — my second visit to this romantic place — the grottos of Neptune and the Sibyl, and reviewed with intense pleasure the Cascatelli, 320 feet in height, and of surpass- ing beauty. The waters can be likened to nothing more than immense streams of molten silver rapidly rushing down. The classical associations of Tivoli render it peculiarly interesting to the scholar. Horace sang its praises, and here he longed to spend the evening of hia life : — and Other Places. 85 its Isit- ;tos Inse 1,88- Lore md " Tibur Aryceo posilnm Golono," '^Sit mecB sedes ntinam aenedve." " Sit modus lasso maris et viarum" " Militiceque." Lib. II. VI. 5. After dinner we started for our destination, following* the course of the Arno, or Teverone, which flows through a beautiful valley, towering above which, rise in the dis- tance lofty mountains, their summits capped with snow, and offering a glorious appearance in the golden reflection of the setting sun. Immense vineyards line the way ; the vines generally supported by mulberry trees. Often they are trained from tree to tree, and in autumn, laden with their yellow and purple clusters, shaded by the dark green leaves, must produce a charming effect. Between Tivoli and Subiaco we pass numerous small villages perched so high upon the mountains that one wonders how they can be reached. In one of these, Vicovaro, in 18G3, the eyes of a picture of the Madonna were seen to move ; a fact witnessed by crowds of people. Saracinesco, whose inhabitants de- scend from the Saracens, defeated by Berengarius in the ninth century, is another of these charmingly picturesque towns, and towers over the river 2, 500 feet. It was after seven when we reached Subiaco, where we put up at the Locanda della Pernice, whose accommodations made ample amends for the inn at Tivoli. An excellent supper, a blazing fire on the hearth, for the evening was cold and our drive had chilled us, kept us in admirable mood, pleased with ourselves — and the 86 Recollectiona of Rome, world at large. Good, clean beds awaited us, from which we rose, bright and early next morning, after the long journey — forty-four miles — in a carriage. The cathedral is dedicated to the Apostle St. Andrew ; it was built by Pius VI., who had been abbot of the monastery for many years. Like most of the churches in Italy, it is a fine build- ing — but might be kept more carefully. Having celebrated Mass, we made our thanksgiving, and witnessed the marriage of an Italian peasant couple. The parties seemed very young and very poor. Still the bride looked interesting in her picturesque head dress and costume of many colors; and no doubt the future appeared to her as bright as to more favored ones, on such occasions. After a slight breakfast at the hotel — the morning meal in Italy is generally very simple, a cup of coffee or chocolate, with bread and butter — we set out for the great Benedictine Monastery, the Sacro Speco. The ascent is steep, the scenery very grand ; about one-half of the road is very good, accessible to carriages, the rest is done on foot without much fatigue. This famous monastery of St. Benedict is about two and a quarter miles from the town, always ascending. The view in every direction is magnificent, varied, almost wild. Here, St. Benedict, a noble patrician youth, retired, A.D. 450, at the age of fourteen. The monastery was rebuilt in 847 ; the lower church and Other Places. 87 13 ch dates from 1053, the upper from lOCG, and the cloister from 1285. It is built against the mountain's side, and contains many very beautiful chapels. Beneath one of the altars are preserved a head and other relics of the Holy Innocents. In the grotto in which St. Benedict passed three years is an excjuisite statue of the saint in white marble, the work of Bernini. On the ledge of the rock rests a sculptured basket of bread, recalling the legend of his food being let down to him when dwelling in this cave, by the monk Romanus, A huge mass of rock overhangs the monastery ; one would think it might fall at any moment, and really it seems miraculously upheld. In the garden, a statue of the saint, his finger pointing to this enormous block, has this inscription upon its base : " Noli tangere filios meos " — touch not my children. Did it fall it must necessarily crush in the monastery. The monks, smiling, say : " There is no danger." Carefully enclosed by an iron railing there is a bed of roses — originally, it is said, thorns, in which, tradition says, St. Benedict rolled himself in order to extinguish the violence of his passions. Be this as it may, certain it is, in each' leaf is cut naturally, the form of a serpent. We have still some of these leaves. Our rev. guide. Padre Bruno, was a Prussian, and spoke English remarkably well. He received us most graciously. The principal church, dat- ing from the fifteenth century, is richly frescoed. It baa IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. 1.0 I.I 1^12^ 12.5 |50 '■^™ ■■■ 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► % ':^ ■P3 // '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WeST MAIN STMiT WIBSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 -^ ^^1%^ "ds ^ ^4^ z :i ■1 88 Recollections of Rome, never been consecrated. Gregory IX., who consecrated the altar, sa^'ing, it was sacred enough in its founder, and St. Francis, of Assisium, who visited it in 1223. Bidding adieu to the good monk, who embraced us 9;^ we left, we descended the ihountain side and knocked at the gate of the ancient monastery of Santa Scholastics, founded in the fifth century, and restored by the Abbot Stephanus in 981. In the cloister we saw a sarcophagus, found in Nero's villa, very elaborately wrought. Under a portico is a fine bas-relief of a stag drinking from a sort of chalice, and having an inscription record- ing the erection of this monastery and church. The recumbent statue of a saint in a crypt, lighted in some mysterious way, impressed us very much. This monastery was the first place in Italy where the printing press was estaolished, by the Germans — Sengenheim and Pannartz. The monks I met in these two monasteries were re- markably handsome, distinguished-looking men. The father who accompanied us through Santa Scholastica, seemed as if his features were chisselled ; his complexion was beautiful, his eyes black and lustrous, with an expression that might well be said, " of the earth — un- earthly," One might have fancied it was the angel guardian of this holy place, robed in the coarse but graceful habit of the children of St. Benedict. The Abbot of this monastery is mitred ; his throne in the church is just like a bishop's. His rank, a lord's. These saintly men never eat meat, and within the cloister and Other Places. 89 observe perpetual silence. They may speak in the garden during recreation. Returning to Rome, we spent the night at Tivoli ; said mass next morning in tae Capuchin Church, and there visited the famous Villa d' Est, built by a cardinal of the name, son of Alfonso II., Duke of Fer- rara. We reached the eternal city towards evening, delighted with our excursion, replete with most agreeable sou- venii*s. The ventlemen whom I had the honor to accom- pany on this charming little tour, were. Monsieur de Fontenay, Grand Vicaire de Sens; Rev. P^re Daume — since dead — and Monsieur I'Abb^ d'Aubichon, Student of the S^minaire Francais. More agreeable companions it would have been difficult to find, and their attention to me — the only stranger — was of the most marked, most delicate nature. What a pleasure — and a pleasure to look back to — to meet, associate with, and be familiar with real gentlemen ! in Iter February 27th. — With Mgr. Lootens, Vicar- Apostolic of Idaho, I visited to-day, St. Mary Major's, St. Sylvester's, San Martino di Monti, Santa Maria delia Pace, and the Gesu — the great church of the children of St. Ignatius. In the latter magnificent basilica, the Quarante Ore, or Forty Hours', Devotion, was going on. The grand altar was a blaze of light, thousands of great tapers being used in the illumination of the sanctuary, while the Blessed Sacrament was enthroned high above .J ■" ■ 90 Recollections of Rome, all, the centre of what seemed like a reflex of celestial glory. At the Mass, twenty-six cardinals, and many bishops were present. The singing was superb, and the great concourse of people seemed deeply absorbed in the grand religious ceremony, one of the most beautiful of the church. San Martino stands upon the ruins of the Thermae of Trajan. It was built by St. Symmachus, a. d. 500, and on the site of a still more ancient church founded by St. Sylvester, in the time of Constantine. The subterranean church — a part of those baths — was kindly shown to us by the clerics, who are always happy to oblige strangers, and invariably receive them with the greatest politeness. Hard by is the basilica Eudoxiana, on the Esquiline, as already mentioned, so called from the wife of Valentinian III., who built it in 442, during the pontificate of Gregory the Great, as a repository for the chains with which St. Peter had been bound at Jerusalem. " Peter was sleeping betwceen two soldiers, bound with two chains." — (Acts xii. 6.) Another pleasant evening at Madam M's. — a great rendezvous for Mgrs, and other distinguished persons — lay and clerical. February 28th — We spent the afternoon at the ex- hibition of Christ'an art — a grand display. The chief contributions were from France. The papal jewels, tiaras, etc., and the ancient mitres of Innocent III. and Urban VIII. excited considerable curiosity. We again witnessed and Other Places. 91 the amusements of the carnival ; the last day apparently being the best. A hundred thousand people must have been upon the streets, and as the beginning, so at the end of the carnival, everything passed off in the most orderly manner possible. The most beautiful sta tue at the exhi- bition was, to my taste, that of Mater Admirabilis — really admirable for its loveliness. ex- chief liar as, Frban Lessed ASH WEDNESDAY. March 2nd. — Quite a change has come over the city. What a contrast after the noise, bustle and excitement of the carnival — the great holiday of the Romans. Lent is upon us, and evidently the mass of the people realize it is the holy season consecrated to penance and to prayer. At St, Peter's the Pope biassed the ashes, and distri- buted them to the cardinals, a few of the bishops, and to some royal personages, who first kissed the Pontiff's feet. Several thousands were in the great basilica, but how few some thousands seem within those vast precincts ! Much satisfaction expressed to-day over the letter of the Bishop of Strasburg, condemning P^re Grattry, and hoc genua omne — oppositionists, who have received a blow from which they will not soon recover. In the afternoon we visited the church of St. Alexis on Monte Aventino ; venerated the great relic of the saint, and saw the staircase under which he lodged for seven- teen years as a' poor mendicant unrecognized, though in 92 Recollections of Rome, il. IS I I ■ the palace of his father. Everyone should read his life. " Wonderful is God in His Saints." ' Another interesting visit was to the church and clois- ter of St Gregory the Great, on Monte Ccelio, and to that of St. John and St. Paul, where those great saints suffered martyrdom. In this latter chiirch raposes the body of St. Paul of the Cross, founder of the Passionists, which is still well preserved, and lies under the altar for the veneration of all. A superb chapel, a gem of the most beautiful mosaics and marbles, is being prepared for the reception of his sacred relics, which we had the happiness of venerating. A delightful drive to the " Marmorata," on the bank of the Tiber, wound up this pleasant afternoon. Their Lordships met this evening at the rooms of His Grace the Archbishop of Quebec, to transact bus'ness in connection with the church in Canada. 4' NAPLES. Mauch 7th. — This morning the Abb^ St. Aubin and I left Rome for Naples. We slept at Ancona, a seaport on the Adriatic, and early next morning went on by rail to Loreto, where we had the happiness to celebrate Mass in the Santa Gasa, or Holy House of Nazareth. Padre Rosig- noli received us most kindly ; and after Mass allowed us to inspect the magnificent treasury of the basilica. The first Napoleon robbed this church of the value of 3,000,000 il arid Other Placet. 98 id I on 111 to . }s in )8ig- |d us The .000 francs worth in gold, silver, precious stones and sacred ornaments. From a balcony of the monastery the Padre pointed out to us the battle-field of Castel Fidardo, where many brave fellows lost their lives defending the rights of the Holy See. Loreto is beautifully situated upon a lofty eminence, overlooking a lovely country. As we ascended the hill to the place of our pilgrimage we sang the " Ave Maris Stella," and, returning, the " Magnificat," " for the great things the Lord had done for us." • We reached Naples in the afternoon of the following day, taking up our quarters at the Hotel Central, where we had excellent accommodation, and reasonably too. Having dined, we strolled about the city, visited the quay, and had much pleasure on seeing in the harbor an English and American vessel both flying their familiar colors. We invested in some oranges, just for the novelty, — " three for a penny," — and while engaged in this mercan- tile transaction, one of the young gentlemen who are so numerous on the Neapolitan docks kindly relieved me of my immaculate pocket handkerchief. It was not a very serious loss, andabout the only one from the time I left till I returned to Canada. Next morning we " did " the royal palace, which, of course, is magnificent in all its appointments. The scala regia — royal staircase — is of marvellous beauty, and no doubt of marvellous cost. As we sauntered through the apartments the guide 94 Recollections of Rome, ■V'' called our attention to a cradle — twelve thousand dollars worth — an immense tortoJHe shell, immensely ornate, the gift of the city to the Princess Margarita, now Queen of Italy, for the young prince, heir of the two Sicilies. From the terrace of the palace we had an unrivalled view of the lovely bay, the docks, much of the city, and Vesuvius in the distance. The chui*ches of this vast metropolis number nearly three hundred. We said Mass at Santa Chiara, the great St. Clare! From the royal residence we drove to the splendid church and monastery of San Martino, which justly ranks among the most beautiful of Italian ecclesiastical struc- tures, and perhaps the loveliest of the Neapolitan churches. The paternal government of Victor Emmanuel had driven out the venerable Carthusians, leaving the sacred place in care of soldiers, quartt^'ed in the convent. A very few, four or five, of the monks were allowed to remain still within its walls, but the community was disbanded. This really magnificent religious house com- mands probably the very best view of Naples and its environs, being situated upon a lofty hill overlooking the city and bay. Deeply deploring the sad fate of the good fathers, we continued our drive to the great ruins of the palace of Sejanus, and passed through a vast and lofty tunnel by torch light. These ruins and the amphitheatre will repay a visit, and should be neglected by no tourist. Where Virgil is said to have written, was pointed out i called Scuola di Virgile and Other Placea. 96 Passing through the grotto of Pausilippe, we come to the poet's tomb ; a plain stone, erected by a librarian of some queen of France, marks out what is said to have been the last resting-place of the author of the immortal iEneid. we . of by )ay kti March 11th. — Off to Pompeii, fifteen miles from Naples, passing through many quaint villages that border the way. As every one knows, this once great cit}*^ was destroyed A. D. 79 — by the eruption of Vesuvius, that poured its torrents of molten lava upon the unfortunate place. After spending considerable time examining the most in- teresting paHs, so far unearthed, and witnessing the ex- cavations still in progress, we took some little refresh- ments, and having procured horses and guides, ascended to the very top of the burning mountain, which is covered many feet deep with the finest, blackest ashes, and here and there huge pieces of lava ejected from the crater and still hot Not a blade of grass is to be seen here, while lower down, near the base of the mountain, are fine vineyards that furnish a most delicious wine. The ascent, after leaving the horses, is exceedingly tiresome and diflicult, but the fatigue is amply recompensed by the wondrous view of the country, land and sea. My companion gave up before we reached the mouth of the crater ; with the help of the guides I ascended to the very top. It has been said, " See Naples — and die." — Better, we think, as some one else has added, " See 9A RecollecHone of Rome, Naples — and live to see it again." Certainly one could scarcely weary of this lovely city and its enchanting environs — whether on land or water. We returned to Rome by another route, and thus had a very good idea of some of the most beautiful parts of the fair land of Italy. March 15th. — Rome again; a most warm greeting from His Lordship, who was not a little lonely during my few days' absence. Said mass this morning for my dear deceased brother, in the very room where St. Ignatius of Loyola, the found- er of the illustrious Society of Jesus, breathed his last. Some of his letters, as well as some written by St. Francis Borgia, St. Vincent de Paul, St. Philip Neri, and other saints, were kindly shown to us by the rev. custo- dian. In a large gla.sscase stands a life-size wax figure of St. Ignatius, said to be a perfect likeness, and robed in the very same vestments he so often used when offering the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass. In the afternoon I visited Santa Maria in Trastevere, built by Pope Calixtus, a. d. 224 ; it was the first church dedicated in Rome to the Mother of God — " Our Mother also." This is the basilica Cardinal Qibbons has received as his titular, and hence will have more than a passing in- terest for American Catholics. The folloMring day my Mass was said at the grand altar of the Minerva, under which reposes the body of St. Catherine, of Sienna, one of and Other Places. I7 the glories of the great Dominican order. After dinner I paid a visit |to the chapel in the Masimo palace, where the raising to life of a young prince by Saint Philip Neri is every year most religiously commemorated. The place was thronged all day. On coming out we met the Pope taking his usual drive, and got his blessing. I consider my- self singularly fortunate in meeting His Holiness so often. The shadow of the first Pope, St. Peter, restored health to the sick (Acts). The wave of the hand — making the sign of the cross over us — and the prayer and benediction from the heart and lips of his successor, must surely be powerful before God. as n- ler of March 17th.— St. Patrick's day, Ireland's great relig- ious anniversary. My Mass this morning, as it has al- ways been on this hallowed day, was offered for Ireland and Irishmen — the world over — God bless them ! Should " Home Rule " come during my life, I shall flatter myself that the holy sacrifice offered regularly for .so many years on the national festival has contributed not a little to ob- tain this great blessing for long sufitiring Ireland. I was delighted — it was in a small church, St. Aim's — to learn that at the same altar Pius IX. said his first Mass, April 8th, 1819, just fifty-one years before. The day was well observed, at St. Isidore's, capo le case the church of the Irish Franciscans. High Mass was sung by Bishop Shiels, of Australia, and the sermon, a very fine one indeed, by His Grace, the Archbishop of Westminster, 98 Recollections of Home, now Cardinal Manning. Thin was really an eventful week, my next maMH being celebrated in the room of St. Philip Neri. The very obliging Sacristan showed me the confessional, crucifix, and other things now precious as having belonged to this great servant of God, the Apostle of Rome. March 19th. — St. Joseph's day. At the altar dedicated to this great saint, I had the happiness of saying mass in the French seminary. At the grand altar, high mass was going on, a big negro priest, a native of Senegambia, Africa, being the celebrant, assisted by two ecclesiastics, as deacon and sub-dencon. His bishop, the saintly Kobez, an Alsatian by birth, was present and evidently delighted with his dear young priest, who, by the way, was blacker than any ace of spades. Holy Catholic Church, how worthy art thou of the world's admiration ! Raising to thy altars the children of a despised, degi-aded race, and placing them among thy princes — the princes of thy people — that they may bring thy light and truth to their fellow creatures, sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death ! Within thy bosom there is no dis- tinction of persons ; and never did that strike us more than when, during the sacred ceremony, we saw the lips of the handsome young priest who served as deacon, re- spectfully pressed to the hand of the African, as from him he received the glowing censer, and offered to him the blessed incense. and Other Places. 99 After mass, the rev. negro dined with the gentlemen of the seminary, and appeared to be tiie hero of the day. It was said he was very clever ; he had just finished his studies at the Propaganda, and was soon to return, to bring the glad tidings of the gospel to his far off distant home. March 23rd. — An auspicious day, being received in audience by the Sovereign Pontiff. This was my second audience. The first was in December, and regarding it T find these remarks in my note- book. " Extract from a letter dated Rome, Dec. 20th, 1869." My letter written last week was too late for the mail ; however, it's just as well, as it affords me an opportunity to let you know that last evening, His Holiness granted an audience to the bishops and priests of the Dominion, now in Rome. Their Lordships were admitted first, and after a few minutes the Pope sent for the priests. I had the honor to kiss his foot, and when leaving, an opportunity to pass before His Holiness presented itself, of which you may be sure I availed myself ; he gave me his hand, which I kissed most fervently. His Holiness received us in the kindest manner, laying aside all ceremony. He stcjd the whole time by a table, having but two of the gentlemen of his household with him. During the audience he talked and joked continually ; ''Pmt 100 RecoUectiona of Rome, 80 much so that, were it possible, we might have forgotten, so great was his condescension, that we were in the pres- ence of the Vicar of Jesus Christ, compared to whom all the kings of the earth are as nothing. He blessed us with all the fervor of his soul in the following words, which made an impression on all who heard him. that will last as long as life. We were all upon our knees, every sound was hushed, we scarcely breathed, lest we should lose one word of that blessing which^all regarded as coming from God Him- self. Raising his eyes and hand, looking more like one just from heaven, than a mortal, he said : — " May the blessing of God the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost descend upon you ; may it descend upon your clergy, your people, your religious communities, and upon your friends ; may this blessing remain with you all the days of yom' life : in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost Amen." You know I am not an enthusiast ; and yet I would willingly travel back to Rome to be blessed as I was blessed last night by the successor of St. Peter, and to feel once more the ineffable joy I experienced in this, to me, one of the most consoling occasions of my life." Going to the audience to day — Marnh the 23rd, — we passed the Gens d'Armes, and the Swiss Guards, in their quaint costumes, designed by Michael Angelo ; we as- and Other Places. 101 re cended the stair-case, crowned at it^ summit by the gor- geous stained glass windows, with full length figures of St. Peter and St. Paul, executed in the very highest per- fection of such work, and presented to Pio Nono, by Max- imilian II., King of Bavaria, and having the inscription: — " Pontijici Maayimo,feliciter regnanti " — " To the Sover- eign Pontiflf, gloriously reigning." We remained some time in an antechamber, a hall of vast dimensions, occupied by guards and other officials. We entered another apartment, and were finally admitted to the audience chamber. Having a good hour to wait, we had ample time to take in the surroundings, and had some fine views" from the windows of the Vatican Palace. Suddenly one of the court officials entered, announcing the coming of the Pope. In a few moments His Holiness appeared, preceded by a chamberlain, and accompanied by two monsignors. As usual, he wore the white cassock, over which was thrown a heavy cloak of scarlet cloth, edged with gold ; a white silk cincture, the ends embroidered with a chalice in raised bullion, and red silk shoes, with the golden cross upon them. At the approach of the Holy Father, all knelt. I was the first ecclesiastic to whom he spoke. He gave me his hand to kiss, after which I bowed and kissed his foot. Asking in Italian wlio I was, I answered in French : from Canada, Holy Father, diocese of Kingston. He repeated the name a couple of times — Kingston — ,1 ■ I' ■ H 102 Recollections of Rome, Kingston — with a very foreign accent, without soeming to remember the place. Noticing my Roman collar — the other ecclesiastics were French, and wore the ' rabbat,' peculiar to them — His Holiness tapped me on the breast, and evidently much pleased, said : le Canada, le Canada — no doubt, think- ing of her devotion to the Vinar of Christ and to Holy Mother Church. The reverend gentlemen whom I accompanied to the audience were : I'Abb^ Simonis, Curt^ de Riheim, I'Abb^ Sester, Curd de Milhausen, and 1' Abbd Meyer, all from Alsace, diocese of Strasbourg. His Holiness was exceedingly gracious; speaking a word to each one, and looking very well, and very happy. He blessed us all, and, as he was leaving the throne- room, turned and said : " I have blessed and indulgenced the crucifixes and other pious objects." March 25th. — The great festival of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary. To-day the Sovereign Pontiff went, in Grand Gala, to the church of Santa Maria, Sopra Minerva, to attend the high mass, and afterwards distribute dowries to the young girls, portioned by the confraternity of the An- nunziata. The morning was lovely, and the papal cortege pre- sented the grandest outdoor spectacle I ever beheld, All Rome seemed to crowd the streets, through which and Other Places. 103 the gorgeous pageant passed, and the greatest enthusiasm everywhere was manifested. The route from the Vatican to the church was covered with the bright yellow sand from Montorio, while flowers were strewr in the way, and fairly rained on the Pon- tiffs carriage. The Pope passed directly under our win- dows, aflbrding us a long and complete view of this un- rivalled ceremony. The church was densely crowded, as indeed were also all the approaches to it. The equipages of the cardinals, crimson and gold ; the carriages of the foreign ambassadors, the noble and Swiss guards, the dragoons — the tout ensemble making a parade unequalled for splendor by anything of the kind in Europe. After dinner I visited Sts. Cosma and Damian, en- riched with mosaics, dating from A. D. 530, and Sta. Francesca Romana, built upon the site of the temples of Venus and Roma. The tomb of the saint, by Bernini, is very elaborate, and is surmounted by her statue, guarded by two angels, a most costly and elegant work. There is here a beautiful bas-relief, from designs by Pietro Oliviero, erected as a monument to Gregory XI. in 1584, by the Senate and people, in' niemory of the return of the papal court from Avignon, in 1377, after an ab- sence of seventy-two years. In the wall, protected by an iron grating, are two stones, deeply impressed, it is said, by St. Peter kneeling 104 Recollections of Rome, upon them, when Simon Magus was carried off by the demon". The bell tower, or campanile, is a fine specimen of this class of mediaeval edifices, being one of the best preserved of the period — 13th century. Another visit to the Coliseum, and with more pleasure than ever. Like St. Peter's, each time one enters this huge structure it grows upon us, seeming grander, vaster, and more and more immense. I mounted several stories, walking slowly through and admiring this grandest of Roman ruins at leisure. It covers six acres, the form is elliptical, the outer wall is 157 feet high ; it accommodated a hundred thousand spectators. Here often flowed the blood of the early christians ! From its lofty walls may be had, in all directions, fine views of the city and all about it — a glorious panorama. Returning, we visited the " Golden House " of Nero, with its ancient frescoes excellently preserved, after more than eighteen hundred years. The portions excavated are very large and very lofty, well repaying a visit. Nero left it incomplete, and Otho spent 30,000,000 sesterces merely to finish it. It is still magnificent in its ruins. March 28th. — To-day, His Holiness received Mgr. Kobez, Vicar Apostolic of Senegambia, in private audi- ence. The saintly bishop brought with him his little negro valet, a very black, but very bright boy. The and Other Places. 105 Idi- Itle Ihe Holy Father asked the young darkey to make the sign of the cross, and then saying, " Introibo ad altare Dei," to which the boy answered ; the Pope, quite delighted, said, Un bon serviteur de messe pour le pape — a good one to serve the Pope's mass. He pressed the little negro to his bosom, asked if he could say the Chaplet, and being answered in the affirma- tive, said, " well, I must give you one," and retiring for a moment, brought the lad a lovely rosary blessed by himself. No wonder Pius IX. was venerated. Conscious of his dignity as Vicar of Christ ; knowing it raised him far above all earthly princes, when he received them, he as a matter of course, often allowed them to prostrate them- selves before him and kiss his feet ; but here, he takes the little African, the boy servant of the humble bishop, and blesses, while he presses him to his heart. As our divine Lord said of Himself, so the Sevvus Servorum Dei — the servant of the servants of God — says : " Non qujero gloriam meam, sed ejus qui misit me." I seek not my own glory, but His who sent me. But with the poor and lowly he imitates the humility of his Master. Call- ing to-day upon a friend, near the Famese palace, I had the pleasure of meeting Madame la Comte.sse de G , and her neice Mademoisille du M . People from America cannot help being most favorably impressed by the grace and affability that distinguish so many of the nobility that one meets in Rome. The affectation and silly airs so often assumed by parvenus, are quite foreign to the genuine stamp. This struck me o ■:m 106 Recollections of Rome, more and more forcibly each time I came in contact with those really noole people. Visited Mgr. Grimly at the Palazzo Caldorari, who was always delighted to see me. March 31st. — Bishop Horan, Bishop Larocque and I, to-day accomi)anied the Archbishop of Quebec, Mgr. Baillargcon, to Civita Vecchia, whence he was to sail for Canada. His Grace was looking very ill ; evidently a cause of great anxiety to his good Vicar-General, the present Cardinal, who was most sincerely and devotedly attached to Monseigneur. Who could help loving such a man ! I thought I should never again see him — a fear that was realized. His Grace died in the autumn, October 13th, 1870 — a real loss for the Church of Canada. On this trip I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the commander of the United States man-of-war — the Frank- lin, who kindly invited me to visit his vessel, then at Spezzia. He had been thirty-seven years in the navy, and still looked fresh and young. He vas a remarkably hand- some man, of most agreeable manners and elegant con- versation. We dined at Civita- Vecchia, and returned to Rome about half-past five, after a most pleasant day. Mgr. Larocque, then Bishop of St. Hyacinth, Canada, wa.s admittedly one of the handsomest men at the Vatican Council ; Bishop Farrell of Hamilton was also much ad- and OtJisr Places. 107 mired. They have both since " gone into the house of their eternity." May they rest in peace. still land- con- Id to lada, bican ad- April Ist. — A dark, gloomy day, anything but what one would expect in this usually beautiful climate. A most interesting visit this afternoon to the baths of Caracalla, situated between the Appian Way and the north-eastern declivity of the Aventine. They were be- gun by Caracalla about the year 240 ; enlarged and com- pleted by Heliogabalus and Alexander Severus. These baths are the most perfect of any similar edifice in Rome, covering an area of 140,000 square yards. Olimpidorus states that they could accommodate sixteen hundred bath- ers at a time. They form an immense square, surrounded by porticoes, and promenades planted with trees, and great halls de- voted to gymnastics. With the exception of the Coliseum, no ruins in Rome impress one more strongly with an idea of the ancient grandeur and magnificence of the capital of the world. Many works of art have been found here. The Farnese Hercules, the huge Flora, the Torso Farnese, now in the Museum at Naples ; the Atreus and Thyestes, the two gladiators, the Venus Callipsyge, now in the Vatican, and many other beautiful works, bronzes, cameos, bas-reliefs, medals, etc., etc. The poet Shelley loved to visit these wonderful ruins. In the preface to the " Prometheus Unbound," he says : " This poem was chiefly written upon 108 Recollections of Rome, the mountainous ruins of the baths of Caracalla, among the flowery glades and thickets of odoriferous blossoming trees which are extended in ever winding labyrinths, upon its immense platforms, and dizzy arches suspended in the air. The bright blue sky of Rome, and the effects of the vigorous awakening spring in that divinest climate, and the new life with which it drenches the spirits even to intoxication, were the inspiration of the drama." From the baths we drove to the very ancient church of Saints Nereus and Achileus, mentioned in the year 494 under the title Faaciola — bandage. A tradition says that St. Peter passing here, a piece of linen fell off his wounds, and a small mound arose, mark- ing the spot. Others think Fasciola a corruption of Fabiola, the Roman matron converted by St. Jerome, who gave her house in order that a church might be erected upon its site. Pope John I. rebuilt this church in 623 ; and Leo III. reconstructed it, a second time, in the ninth century. It was here Cardinal Baronius deposited the bodies of Saints Nereus and Achileus, with that of Saint Flavia Domitilla, which Gregory IX. had confided to the Church of St. Adrian. The walls are beautifully frescoed, representing the history of the apostles. The altar and candelabra are very rich ; and a magnificent Ambone, taken from the Church of St. Sylvester in Capite, is well preserved. Here also is the pontifical chair of St. Gregory the Great — in which I had the honor to sit — and from which he de- livered his twenty-eighth homily ; a portion of which is and Other Pldces. 109 engraved on the back of the marble chair. The Vicar- Qeneral of Meaux (this was the great Bossuet's see), ac- companied me in my rambles this afternoon. This dis- tinguished ecclesiastic was quite at home amid the ruins ; a most interesting guide t nd charming companion. To- gether we studied the antiquities. the are the [ere -in de- Ih is April 2nd. — Saturday — eve of Passion Sunday. — This morning in company with Mgr. Horan, I went to say Mass at the tomb of the Apostles. The Chapel of the Con- fession, as it is called, is immediately beneath the high altar of St. Peter's, and consequently directly under the wondrous dome ; a fitting monument, overshadowing the sacred spot where rest the sacred relics of the prince of the apostles, and of his companion, the apostle of the gentiles. In the fourth century, St. Cornelius broug tit hither the remains of St. Peter from the subterranean crypt of St. Sebastian, on the Appian Way. Clement YIII. enriched the hallowed shrine with precious stones and costly ornamentation. Over the altar are two paintings of St. Peter and St. Paul, dating from the pontificate of Calixtus II. (1122). We reached St. Peter's about 8 o'clock, and it was nearly 12 before I be- gan my Mass, so many dignitaries had to pass before me. While awaiting my turn I heard eight Masses, recited the ' Little Hours ' with other prayers, and the chaplet fifteen times, for the intentions fur which 1 was about to offer the holy sacrifice. 110 Recollections of Rome, It is seldom one's preparatio ad mieeam is so long, yet T found it not at all tedious, so delighted was I to realise one of the holiest desires of a priest's life — Mass at the tomb of the apostles. One of the bishops who said Mass that morning belonged to some oriental rite. He wore a cope instead of a chasuble, and after the consecration, holding the Sacred Host in hb left hand, which rested on the chalice, he turned towards the assist- ants, and raising his voice, struck his breast thrice with the greatest solemnity. The ceremony ot course was new to me ; but was as impressive as it was novel. The eastern bishops for the most part are venerable looking men ; their vestments tend not a little, by their amplitude and magnificence, to onchance the nobility of their appearence. The Greeks wear a crown, as the Latins Wear a mitre ; it has certainly the advantage over the latter, which be- comes so very few men. We ended this day, so well begun, at the " Orti-Far- nesiani, " among the ruins of the palace of Vespasian, the temples of Jupiter Victor, and Jupiter Stator, the palace of Tiberius, the palace of Caligula, the site of the house of Romulus. In fact, we had in view the kingly, republican and imperial periods, each manifested in its crumbling ruins, striking memorials of the vanity of all earthly grandeur. and Other Places. Ill |ar- ithe Lace leof [can April 3. — Passion-Sunday. We have reached the last fortnight oi Lent. Groat anticipations for Holy Week, the ceremonies of these days being one of the chief attrac- tions for strangers in Rome. All on the qui vivBy hoping the offices will be at St. Peter's, instead of the Sixtine chapel, which admits of very few comparatively. An interesting visit to-day to the national church of the Germans, Santa Maria dell 'Anima, which is umler the special protection of Austria. Also, to Santa Marin della Pace, built by Sixtus IV. in 1482, in commemoration of the peace of Christendom, threatened by the Turks in 1480. Here are seen the four Sibyls of Raphael; — theCumaean, Persian, Phrygian and Tiburtine ; acknowledged by all connoissuers as some of the most perfect work of the im- mortal master. The noble family of the Chigi have here a very beautiful chapel, designed by Michael Angelo. About 4 o'clock the Pope drove to the Sessorian Basi- lica, Santa Croce in Qerusalemme, for the consecration of the Agnua Dei. A great crowd had assembled, and cheered the pontifFlustily,as he descended from hiscarriage and again, as he was leaving, at the conclusion of the ceremony. But after all, how unreal are these ovations ! How soon the hozannas of Palm Sunday are succeeded by the crucifige, of Good Friday! and how often, oh, how often ! has not the paternal heart of Pio Nono had reason to bleed for the ingratitude of a wayward, fickle, easily intimidated people. ■•v 112 Becollectiona of Rome, April 6th. — Yesterday, at the Quirinal, I had the honor of being presented to His Eminence Cardinal Berardi, Minister of Public Works for the pontifical government. The amiable simplicity, the afTability, the gracious dignity of those real princes of the Church, charujs every- one, and shows how naturally true worth excludes all attempt or aiming to make others feel its superiority. The cardinals' apartments in the apostolic palace were handsomely, but not luxuriously, fum'ald- H 122 Recollectiona of Rome, ing, which produced a very good effect upon some of the Right-Rev. Fathers, and gave much satisfaction to all, in favour of the proclamation of the dogma, which no one pretended to doubt, but which many considered inoppor- tune — the infallibility of the Pope. Purchased some very pretty mosaics at Noci's, 64 Via Fontanella di Borghese. Threatening rain ; towards evening hot and very oppressive. ill April 12th. — Tuesday of the Great Week. My Mass to-day was celebrated at the Passionists' Monastery, near St. John's, of Lateran. Within the convent, the Religious preserve the Scala Santa, tlie stairs taken from the palace of Pontius Pilate, and which the Redeemer of the world ascended and de- scended four times, on the morning of His passion ; first, on arriving at the Roman governor's ; then, going to and from Herod's; finally, after having been condemned to death, clothed with the mantle of derision and wearing the crown of thorns. It is composed of twenty-eight steps of white veined marble, unknown in Italy, but much used in Syria. An ancient tradition, and which still exists in the East- ern Church, relates that the Empress Helena brought them from Jerusalem, with three doors and two pillars^ to be placed in the Lateran palace. The steps, to preserve them, are covered with heavy ^s and Other Places. 123 plank ; but an opening on tho face of each allows one to see the marble and to touch it with the hand. Pilgrims ascend the stairs upon their knees, descending by parallel stairs on each side. Many and great indulgences are attached to this act of devotion. I ascended them twice — a very fatiguing thing — a goodly penance. Having reached the top, we come to the Sancta Sanc- torum, the ancient chapel of the popes, which had escaped when the jialace was destroyed by fire. Here are venerated the celebrated picture of our Sa- viour, life-size, painted on cedar and olive wood, styled the Archiropoieta (not made by the hand of man), and the Sacra Tavola, begun by St. Luke, and, according to the legtmd, finished by angels. It was transported in the fourth century from Jerusalem to Constantinople, where it remained in the greatest veneration up to the time of Leo the Isauriaji. Miraculously saved from the Iconoclasts, it reached Rome under the pontificate of Gregory I., who conveyed it to the patriarchate of Latran, the chapel of St. Lawrence. it- rht rs,. tvy At the foot of the Santa Scala, one on each side, stand two magnificent statues in white marble, the munificent gift of His Holiness Pius IX., one of which has the in- scription, " Haec est hora eorwni et potestas teuehrarum^' — " This is their hour and the power of darkness "; and the other — " Osculo filiun hominis tradia?" — "Dost thou betray the Son of Man with a kiss ? " A just and 124 Recollectiona of Rome, scathing rebuke to the " Powers" that have, to their own perdition, like Judas, betrayed the \ icar of Jesus Christ. To-day the first voting took place in the Aula of the Council. Terrible rain, accompanied by learful thunder and lightning. April 13th. — Wednesdaj'in Holy Week. At half-past four I assisted at the Tenebrae, in St. PeterV The singing of the Lamentations by the papal choir was grand beyond conception ; the Misercrd — something unearthly. The same may be said of the office, next evening, though perhaps more thrilling. The Miserere had more of that wail, of which we have so often read ; one might imagine it the last cry for mercy, the outpouring of the anguish of the souls of the dead. One's flesh fairly creeps, a chill comes over you, and the very blood seems to grow cold, as you listen to those accents of woe, echoing through the vast basilica and piercing the very marrow of one's bones. Nearly all the bishops attending the Council were present, and of coui"se, added much to the grandeur and sublimity of this great function of the church. The vast concourse of people seemed much affected ; and indeed, cold must be the heart and well nigh liead the faith of any who can assist unmoved at such a scene. Holv Thursday, a Cardinal celebrated the High Mass, and the Pope, after carrying the most adorable Sacrament and Other Placed, 125 to the Chapel of the Canons, where it reposed till the cere- mony of the next day, ascended to the Loggia and gave the papal benediction, Uibi et Orbi, and to the multitude kneeling on the great square of St. Peter's. It was truly a grand sight. The day was lovely and the sky fhe clearest I had yet hehelil. In the afternoon I visited many churches to sec the " Repositories " ; nothing yery striking in any of them. I saw none to equal those of Quebec or Montreal. jps, i-ow and ted ; lead lene. Lass, lent April 15th. — Good Friday. — Again to St. Peter's to as- sist at the great ceremonies of this day of days. An im- mense concourse of the faithful. I was particularly for- tunate in securing a splendid position, near the column of St. Veronica, whence I could follow the grand function. One of the Cardinals officiated, and the sublime ritual of the Church was magnificently conducted. As on Palm Sunday, the Passion was rendered with admirable effect. The stillness of the vast multitude was almost oppres- sive. Earth has no more magnificent voices than those composing the Pope's choir, and following the words of the sacred writer, the chanting produced on me an impression beyond the power of language to describe. His Holiness came for the sermon, which was delivered by a ' Conventual,' occupying only fifteen minutes. The dis- course was in Latin. Never have I seen in our pul- pits anything approaching the gracefulness of gesture dis- played on this occasion. I suppose it was really what w 126 RecollcctionH of Rome, the French call— (/71 Sermon de circonatunce. After the adoration of the cross, the Sovereign Pontiff bore back the Sacred Host from the (.'anons'(Jhapel, and the service was resumed. In several churches I saw to-day a carpet spread near the gate of the Sanctuary, with a cushion, and a crucifix, surrounded with lights and flowers, hiid upon it. The people, on their knees, approached and kissed the marks of the sacred wounds. Each evening, at the close of the " Tenebrae, " the great relics of the Passion ; — the sacred lance, the towel impressed with the face of our Lord, and the wood of the True Cross were exposed, for the veneration of the faith- ful, from the balcony of St. Veronica. In the afternoon of this thrice holy day, I had again the ineffable happiness of ascending, on my knees, the Scala Santa, and touching with my hands, the very steps, sanctified four different times — just 1837years ago (1870), by the sacred feet, and stained by the precious blood of the Redeemer of the world. Rome, Alma Roma! had'st thou nothing else, would not such a privilege more than compensate the Christian for a journey from the uttermost ends of the earth ! From this venerable sanctuary, which was crowded by devout worshippers, I went on to the Coliseum, and made the " Holy Way of the Cross," in that place consecrated by the blood of countless martyrs, who within its walls gave their lives for God and Holy Church. Nothing can be more touching than this great devo- tion, within this vast enclosure, majestic in its ruins, from and Other Places. 127 whose galleries the etnperoi*H and the Ruinan people wit- nessed the heroism of the dying Christians ; nothing more calculated to recall the most terrible souvenirs, while at the same time, nothing can givegn ater consolation to the Christian, Catholic heart. Every Friday evening the devotions of the Stations of the Cross are performed in the Coliseum. Thousands made the Stations here to-tlay. As I was leaving, a procession entered, headed by the Bishop Spaccapietra who, bareheaded, was carrying the cross. Soon after came another, the cross-bearer b'iing the Prin- cess Borghese, supported on each side by a noble lady. In the evening, at 8 o'clock, I accompanied several French priests to the Hos])itium — Trinita delli PeligHni — and witnessed what can be seen no where but in Rome, in every sense the capital of the Christian world. Cardi- nals, princes, bishops, priests, noblemen, and other gentle- men, upon their knees, were washing the feet — and oh ! such feet ! — methinks I see them still, and still feel the overpowering atinosplicre of the vast halls, — of hundreds of poor men and boys, pilgrims to the Holy City, come for the " Great Week," and afterward serving them at table, a most excellent supper being provided. The halls of this institution are very fine, adorned with statues of the popes and inscribed with the names of the benefactors of this world-renowned refuge. The women were attended in their wards by princesses and other distinguished ladies, who are only too happy to perform 128 Reoollectiona of Rome, this " labor of love." Many ibreigners gazed upon this great charity, and appeared deeply impressed with the touehing sight — that vividly recalled the ages of faith, when such heroic actions were the rule, not the exception. HOLY SATURDAY. This morning, I again ascended the Scala Santa (the indulgences are immense), and then at Saint John's of Lateran, witnessed the baptism of a Jew, a Jewess, and another convert. The ceremony was very imposing. It was !iere Constantine was baptized. Here I renewed my baptismal promises : may I be faithful to them ! At this Mass, fifteen priests were ordained ; His Eminence Cardi- nal Patrizi officiating, and getting through the mauy ceremonies in a wonderfully short time. Returning to the Monastery of the Passionists, I saw the procession of the Blessed Sacrament, and procured from one of the venerable fathers some of the oil from the lamp s that ever burn before the miraculous image of our Saviour — in that place, than which— the inscription hath it : — " Non est sanctior locus in toto orbe terrarum " — " There is no holier place in the whole world " — and we well believe it. The popes resided for some time at the Lateran ; here too several Councils were held — the fourth held in the year 1215 — under Pope Innocent III. — defining the Easter- duty. 'Tis but a short drive from this to Santa-Croce, beyond the porta San Giovanni — St. John's gate. On the way and Other Places. 129 are seen the ruins of the Roman acqueducts, time-worn and ivy-grown — yet still pretty well preserved — and, if I mistake not, some being still used for their original pur- poses. EASTER SUNDAY. April l7th, 1870, — I was awakened this morning by the booming of the cannons of the castle of Saint Angelo, and the ringing of all the bells of the three hundred and sixty-five churches of the city, announcing the dawn of the glorious Easter day ; truly the day which the Lord has made for His people, and on which we should be glad and rejoice. Having said my Mass, which, by the way, was served by a young Prussian, a splendid looking fel- low, formerly a Zouave, and then studying for the African mission, Senegambia, and having attended Monseigneur at his, we xlrove to St. Peter's. Already a vast multitude had assembled, and a few moments after we entered, the Sovereign Pontiff was ^ borne in the Sede GestatSria to his throne, while the most ravishing music was executed in the tribune above the great door. His Holiness sang mass, and sang it so as to be heard throughout the immense basilica. Fortunatelv I had an excellent place near the confes- sion, and could see every movement of the Pope, and follow closely all the ctreraonies of the Mass. 130 Recollections of Rome, H'^ At the elevation of the Host, the troops, lining the church, presented arms. Every knee was bent, every sound hushed, every breath seemd stilled ; and then, from the "wondrous dome" came the ds of the silver trumpets, like the voices of celestia. ..^/irits, filling the soul with a flood of melody such as one may never again elsewhere expect to hear, and which we fancy can be rivalled only by the choirs of Heaven. The "consecration" over, St. Peter's sent forth its multitudes, »>,11 anxious to secure a favorable position to witness the imposing rite of the Easter Benediction. I was among the fortunate ones on this memorable occa- sion. From the doors Of the great temple to the extrem- ity of the grand piazza, were congregated people from all parts of the world. It reminded one of the first Pentecost at Jerusalem. It was said that day, over two hundred thousand persons were within sight of the Vicar of Christ — truly the father of the faithful. Well might He say : " Thou hast given to me all the nations of the eartn." Three splendid bands were present, and the troops under arms, drawn up upon the square. A murmur runs through the vast crowd — every eye is raised to the tribune over thS great portal of the world's greatest temple. At length, the cross — the sign of man's redemption — is seen above the "Loggia"; the papal at- tendants place the tiaras and mitres upon the marble balustrade, when, a few moments more, and the Pope ap- pears, seated upon the portable throne, the great fans of 6strich feathers — the flabelli — waving on either side in the gentle breeze of this lovely morning. and Other Places. 131 The usual prayers are chanted ; and then the Pontiff rises, raises his eyes and hands to heaven, and in tones, strong, sonorous, powerful and clear, gave the apostolic benediction, Urbi et Orhi — to the city and to the world. Never, since the day of the transfiguration, did mortal eye gaze upon a more glorious sight ! Well might we ex- claim with the first of the Pontiffs — " Lord, it is well for us to be here." No language can convey an idea of this magnificent spectacle. The noble piazza, with its silvery fountains, densely crowded ; the splendour of the pontifical court ; the gorgeous robes of the cardinals ; the purple and gold of the bishops and minor prelates ; the glitter of the- uni- forms of the military and the diplomatic corps; the great colonnade enclosing all within its mighty arms ; the strains of delicious music ; the religious enthusiasm of the assembled thousands ; — and all this, in the " divinest of climates," beneath a cloudless sky — the " clear blue sky of Italy," went to make up a sight that can be seen only in Rome, and in Rome only at Easter or on Christmas Day. THE ILLUMINATIONS. " The illuminations of St. Peter's took place at 8 p.m. No one that has ever witnessed them can possibly forget the impressions produced by this magnificent display. Three hundred and eighty-two men are employed to light the lamps ; the cost amounts to 3,000 lire. "The first, called the siZver illumination, begins at dusk, and consists of 5,900 lanterns; the second, called the golden, begins at 8 o'clock, on Easter night, when, on the K- 'it- i!;- 132 Recollections of Rome, signal being given, 900 lamps are lighted so instantane- ou^5ly that it seems the work of enchantment. " The whole is completed in about eight seconds ; the en- tire building being then lit up by no less than 6,800 lamps. The lanterns used for the silver illumination are of white paper ; those for the golden are iron cups filled with blazing tallow and turpentine. " Every column, cornice and frieze ; the bands of the dome, and all the details of the basilica to the summit of the cross, 448 feet high, are bright with lines of lamps and its gigantic architecture stands out against the dark sky in a firmament of fire." Nd language can adequately describe this illumination, of which Rome and the Romans are so justly proud. Many have written about it, and the whole world has heard of it ; but it must be seen to be realized. Monday night, at the Piazza del Popolo, there was a grand display of fire- works ; the French stating they had never seen their equal even in Paris, where this sort of thing is produced on the grandest scale. Wednesday night the whole city was illuminated in honor of the Pope. We cheered His Holiness as he drove by our carriage, inspecting the illuminations. He did not fail to bless us as he passed. The whole city seemed to be on foot, and yet everything was as orderly and decorous as the most exacting could desire. Rome, under the Popes, was truly a model city. During the five months I passed within its walls, I heard of only one very, very serious crime, and then there were certainly very extenuating circumstances. and Other Places. 133 Upon the streets no unbecoming sights meet the eye ; no vile language offends the ear. " ADIEU.". ras a had )rt of 3d in fiage, bss us \,, and I most truly kthin ),and Itnces. April 23rd. — To-day, accompanied by Lieutenant Murray, I called upon the Canadian bishops to say "good bye." Noble Hugh Murray has since entered into his rest, leaving behind him a name honored by all who were privileged to know him. A brave soldier, a perfect gentleman, and a most devoted child of holy Mother Church. May his soul rest in peace ! His Lordship had gone with me in the morning for a farewell visit to the Vatican galleries and their untold treasures. Next morning, the third public Session of the Council was held. The fathers recorded their votes and the tirst decrees were passed. The bishops wore red copes, and, us usual, the plain white mitre. The Pope delivered a very^ touching allocu- tion, on the gospel of the day. Monday, we witnessed the great procession — Rogation — from St. Mark's to St. Peter's. In the afternoon we visited San Lorenzo /ttori le muro where now rests all that is mortal of the great Pope Pius IX. After supper, I finished the day by visiting the Bishops of Limerick and Oalway, and the amiable Dr. Power, co- adjutor of Killaloe, from all whom I had received the great- I. ■f V 134 Recollections oj Rome, cat kindness during my stay in Rome. Their lordships of Limerick and Gal way, without any solicitation, gave me the most flattering letters of introduction to the cler- gy of their respective dioceses. Indeed while life lasts I shall ever recall with deepest gratitu'J • ou< unvarying attention, kindness, and I might even say affection, manifested towards me by those distinguished prelates. One, Mgr. McEvilley, is now Arch- bishop of Tuam- -spoken of as a probable cardinal. The other t-v. )i<. >. sleen their last sleep." " Bleysed are the dead who di) ui ,kx ifknowledgment of the money sent to h*ni from i) ' ro'v-- .»i);^vegation of St. Francis Xavier, Brock ville. St. Jarlath's College, Tuam, MarcK 24th, 1880. My Dear Fr. MacCarthy : — Allow me to thank you most sincerely for your gener- ous remittance of £103 st., which reached in due course, for the relief of the prevailing distress. You and your good flock shall have the prayers of our poor people fer- vently offered up for them. I am very glad to have this opportunity of renewing our acquaintance. Well do I remember you, together with the good Dr. Horan. I think he and you were more with Drs. Butler, Power and myself than most any others ; and you were always welcome visitors I hope I may see you on the green soil to thank you. Very sincerely yours, f John MacEvilley. Very Rev. J. McCarthy. and Other Places. 135 Tuesday, April 26th — Got my passport for Florence. After dinner called at the Scotch College, and thence to the Strada-ferrata, the railway — to procure information re- garding the trains. On returning, His Lordship accom- panied me to the review of the young volunteers, by the Pope, which was held in the gardens of the Vatican. There was quite a gathering. His Holiness made a speech which was most enthusiastically applauded. He then distributed medals to the volunteers. As we left the gar- dens, I turned to take a last look at the great St. Peter's. Home, supper — a few hurried visits to friends, a long, long chat with my dear, venerable, saintly, and ever to be re- gretted Bishop ; then to bed, to dream of Rome and its wonders, to which on the morrow I was to say 'ae hurry out into the open air. Wkonksday, May 4th. — We reached the royal city of Munich at half-past live this morning. We were ex(ro«^d- iiigly tired from our long ride fronj Milan, nearly twenty hours, and, having made a hearty breakfast — went im- mediately to bod. During the day we " did the city, "which is vast, hand- somely laid out, and very l»eautiful in certain (pjaiters. The cathedral is grand; the stained windows in all tho chundies are remarkably fine, in .some, perhaps the finest in tho world, louring our stroll through the city wo met ■14 I ill 144 Recollections of Rome, the king, whom of course we saluted, and who in return most politely raised his hat. Sitting beside His Majesty was an officer in uniform. A few attendants followed the royal carriage, which was drawn by four elegant black horses. The king was in morning dress, and was paying an in- formal visit to the floral exhibition. His tragic end a few years ago, is still fresh in every one's memory. We left the capital of Bavaria next morning for Mayence, which is one of the great fortress-towns of Prussia. The cathedral is large, but cannot be called handsome ; it was undergoing repairs. It contains, among others, the tomb of the wife of Charlemagne. Being the Month of Mary, the usual de- votions were going on in the evenings, in all the churches. We a»ssisted at " Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament," and were charmed with the singing, in which the whole congregation, men, women and children joined, with ad- mirable eflfect. In Germany, music is taught in all the schools ; so all who pretend to sing, do so more or less well ; hence, con- gregational singing passes. In our country it would be hard to introduce the system without running the risk of making the singing ridiculous — at least for years. Even in our larger parish- es it is difficult to bring together a dozen good singers. Were all to join in, probably they would be like the Wid- ow Bedott's singers — kind o' independent — each one with a tune of his own. and Other Places. 145 COLOGNE. all )U- he sh- irs. th Mat 6th. — Down the Rhine to Cologne. The boats plying on this- famous river are in every respect worthy of it. The best of wines are kept on board, and the meals are excellent. The whole world has heard of the glories of the Rhine ; The most vivid description falls short of the reality. Like Naples, it must be seen to be realized. The scenery is among the finest that can possibly be imagined ; the vine- clad mountains in the distance, crowned with the ruins of ancient castles, dating from the days of Roman power, give an inconceivable charm to the scene. At Coblentz, like the waters of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence, one can easily distinguish the blue Moselle from the green waters of the Rhine. A frowning citadel, reached by a bridge of boats, looks threateningly over the river. We reached Cologne towards evening, and visited the cathedral, the most perfect specimen of gothic architec- ture in Christendom. Its length is 511 feet by 230 in width. The spires were not completed — we believe they are now — and were to be 500 feet above the foundation. There is a middle aisle and four naves in this magnifi- cent temple, admittedly one of the grandest in the whole world. There is a chapel here to the right, beneath the altar of which, tradition says, lie buried the three wise men of the East. 1 146 Recollections of Rome, ■i' i 1 I- 15' I 3' Nowhere have I seen streets so narrow. In some, one can scarcely pass the smallest conveyance. Of course, others are broad and handsome ; like at Milan, one is covered in with glass. No one fails to see the church dedicated to St. Ursula, and its walls inlaid with skulls, said to be those of the ten thousand virgins — her companions. We also saw here a large alabaster water-pot, said to be one of those used at the marriage feast of Cana — quite possible. PARIS. We travelled during the niorht, leavinor Cologne at 10 p.m., and passing through Belgium, reached Paris early next day. Here we made quite a delay, visiting the principal attractions besides the Louvre, the Tuileries, the Bois de Boulogne, P^re la Chaise — the famous cemetery — the Jardin d'Acclimitation, the Champs Elys^es, the Place de la Concorde, the Boulevards des Italiens, and many beautiful churches. We said Mass twice at Saint Sulpice, and felt quite at home, knowing so well the gentlemen of St. Sulpice, Montreal, than whom tho clergj' have no better friends. We went by rail to Verooilles, and saw its gorgeous palace — the cause of so much misery to la belle France. ******* Paris is lovely, by gar,-light — a fairy-like scene. The statues and paintings of the Louvre are beautiful ; these galleries are always crowded, and with artists always copying. Here we saw many relics of the French Men- ill and Other Places. 147 archs, from Chiideric to Charles X., ainoQg wliich were the crown and sceptre of Charlemagne. Of course we again visited Notre Dame, saw the Saiute Chai^elle, and beautiful St. Roch's. DOVER. May 16th. — Reached Dover — charming crossing — and spent the night at my friend — Captain Moore's. My companion went on to London, where I joined him on the following day. Our stay in London was short. We proceeded to Liv- erpool and took berths for America in the " City of Ant- werp," Inman Line. EDINBURGH. Leaving Liverpool about 2.. 50 p. m., we reached Edin- burgh, about nine o'clock, and put up at the hotel of the same name, Prince's street, and directly opposite Sir Wal- ter Scott's elegant monument. It was a bright moonlit night ; the view from the upper windows of the hotel was enchanting. Next morning, Sunday, we said lVLa.s3 at the pro- Cathedral. Vicar-General Rigg, since Bishop, I believe, and Father Geddes, received us most graciously. The Bishop was in Rome, attending the Council. The pro-Cathedral is small, exceedingly plain and unpretend- ing. The Empress Eugenie, when in Edinburgh, attended Mass in this church. it. i: 148 Recollections of Rome, Edinburgh ranks with the first cities in Europe, and cer- tainly commands one of the finest sites. From Arthur's seat the view is magnificent, extending upon all sides, and across the Frith of Forth to the shores of Fife, and far out into the sea. The castle is a point of great interest ; and Holy Rood Palace of course has deeply absorbing attractions for the countless admirers of the beautiful Scottish queen, the loveliest of her sex ; the good, the gentle; the unfortunate Mary Stuart. We paid a visit to St. Margarets' Convent, where we were most kindly welcomed by the saintly and gifted Sisters. Beneath their chapel — a sort of catacomb — they point- ed out to us the receptacle in which had rested, for more than twenty years, the precious remains of Upper Can- ada's first bishop — the Hon. and Right Revd. A.lexander McDonell, to whom, and to whose nephew, the Vicar-Oen- eral — Angus McDonell, the church of what is called Ont- ario to-day, owes more than to any other men ; and whose names should be recorded in every Catholic church and in- stitution in the land, as they should be enshrined in every Catholic heart. We spent a charming day in this romantic city, of which the noble Scottish people are so justly proud. Its site is admittedly one of the very finest in all Europe. INVERNESS. Monday morning we started for Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, about twenty miles from Fort Augus- and Other Places. 149 tu8. The scenery about here is very beautiful, but the town, situated on the Ness river, is a dull, stupid place. From the fairies' hill, which is crowned with the ceme- tery, there is a very good view. This hill is remarkable, sloped like the bottom of a ship, and in length, wanting but a few feet of the " Great Eastern." The Rev. Father Dawson was the Pastor of Inver- ness ; like all the good fathers we met in Scotland, we found him exceedingly kind. About Blair- Althole, the highlands are grai-J. As in all mountain scenery, many places are bleak and wretchedly barren. We passed the historic fields of Culloden and Bannock- bum ; saw Stirling, with its fine castle ; Perth, and the grand monument, near the latter place, erected to the mem- ory of Sir William Wallace. On the train we met an old gentleman — a McDonald, of course — and of Capoch. Learning my companion was a Scotchman — ^and a McDonald into the bargain ; that I was from Glengarry, Canada, and both of us priests — he happened to be a Catholic — he overwhelmed us with at- tentions, and begged us to come and " bide with him for a fortnight." I presented him with a little statue of the Blessed Virgin, which I had brought from my far off Canadian home, as a little souvenir. He raised his hat, pressed the image ot Our Lady most fervently to his lips, and after a moment, said, " that shall go in the coffin )ital rus- wi' me." Ik, fc ■■■ 160 Recollections of Rome, We saw the famous pass of Killiekrankie ; passed Dun- blane, but didn't get even a g limpse of the " Flower." GLASGOW. It was near dark when we reached Glasgow ; the even- ing was irost inclement. We supped at the Bishop's, with the Vicar-Qeneral, Father Monroe. Glasgow, 43 miles from Edinburgh is the third city of Great Britain in population — 395,000. It is noted for its commerce and vast manufactures — situated on the Clyde, it enjoys rare facilities for ship-building. By train we went to Greenock, taking steamer for Bel- fast, Ireland, reaching there early next morning. This city is at the head of Belfast Lough ; has a population of 120,000; is handsomely built, well kept, and apparently a place of great prosperity. It is noted for its linen manu- factures, and enjoys a large foreign as well as domestic trade. Having seen all we wished of Belfast, we con- tinued our journey to Dublin and Cork, visiting in each place the objects of greatest interest. At Glasnevin, we stood uncovered before the tomb of O'Connell, and breathed a fervent prayer for the eternal repose of the illustrious dead. We made a special visit to Blarney, its castle and its groves and, must we confess it ? — kissed the stone. It was labor in vain — the stone must have lost its efficacy — at least the gift of blarney was not imparted to us. But perhaps 'tis as well — " an honest man is the noblest work of God." It may not always promote one's earthly and Other Places. 151 interest, but it 's much to look back to. It comes next to beinjj " Innocens manibus et mundo corde." AMERICA. At noon, to-day, May 23rd, 1870, we left the liarbor of Queenstown, for our own dear land. The return was delightful ; the ocean so calm, the whole journey might have been made in a bark canoe. We reached Halifax, my native place, on the 31st, and Boston, on Saturday, 2nd of June. Sunday, the trains not going through, was spent at St. Albans, where I said Mass and preached, and left early next morning for Montreal. of •nal its It us. Wednesday, June oth, I returned to my dear old home, Williamstown, meeting with a most cordial reception, at the hands of all — Protestant and Catholic. Here as well as since — in Brock ville — Protestants have been some ot my best, my truest friends. My visit to Europe, occupying just eight months, was perfectly delightful — satisfactory in every respect — a joy for ever. And now, after many years, I look back still to it with feelings of intense pleasure, yet, more and more convinced of the truth of the words of the old familiar song : " 'Mid pleasures and palaces, though we may roam, Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home." FINIS. I 162 Recollections of Rome, NOTES ON THE MISSION OF SAINT FRANCIS XAVIER. , :■! £ BROCKVILLE, COUNTY OF LEEDS, ONTAMO. The Mission of Saint Francis Xivier now comprises the town of Brockville, and takes in a portion of the sur- rounding country, extending to Maitland, on the eaufc, Lyn, on the west, and Addison, in the rear. Until September, 1884, St. James' Church, Yonge, was under the care of the pastor of Brockville, but since has been formed into a new mission, having been for about a year and a half attended by the priest assistant at St. Francis Xavier's. The first priests attending the Brockville Mission were the Reverend Fathers Reynolds, Campion, Clarke, and the very Rev. William P. McDonell, Vicar-General, who for some years so ably conducted the Catholic, a relipous weekly paper, published at Kingston and Hamilton, in the interests of the Church. We know not the date of the building of the old church, now used as a separate school house for the boys, but we know that Mass was celebrated in it by the Right Rev. Alex. McDonell, when it could not boast of a floor other than the bare ground afforded. The saintly Bishop sometimes said Mass at the resid- ence of the late Dr. Hubbell, on Main-street, where now stands the fine building lately occupied by the Mac- Namara, Bros., as a dry goods establishment and Other Places. 153 )n, in [urch, It we iRev. l)ther On looking' over the old records of the " Mission, " we find the first l)aptisinal entry, dated the 17th day of De- comber, 1835. Father Philip O'Rielly was then in charge. His last entry is on the 8th of March, 184'7. Some of the books show arrears of pew rents, going back as far as 1833. Father O'Rielly 's remains are buried at Kitly Church. The first entries in the register by the Rev. Oliver Kelly, are in 1845, The present church, one hundred and sixty-two feet long, by sixty-two wide, was begun by the last named priest, and the corner stone was laid on the IGth day of July, 1856, feast of our Blessed Lady of Mount Carmel, by the Right Rev. Patrick Phelan, Bishop of Carha\ and apostolic administrator of the diocese of Kingston. Father Kelly was succeeded in December, 1858, by the Rev. Henry Byrne, through whose untiring ettbrts, the church was ^^osed in, and put in condition for holding divine service. During his time, the " Devotion of the Forty Hours" was established, and a new impetus given to the confraternity of the holy scapular. Indeed, Brockville, owes much to this self-denying, devoted, zealous, Catholic priest; hon- ored, respected, beloved by all. The Rev. John O'Brien, for years the distinguished and venerated director of Regiopolis College, was named in 18(54, to Brockville, by the Right Rev. Bishop Horan, as successor to the Rev. Henry Byrne, who, owing to ill health, arising from being thrown from his sleigh, had resigned. 154 Recollections of Rome, The first entry on the parish registry by Father O'Brien is dated January J 2th, liSGo. This illustriouh priest, afterwards bishop of Kin^'ston, paid ofl' a very heavy debt on the church ; tinishcd the phistering, put in the pews, and hung in the tower the splendid bell 3,100 lbs weight — one of the finest in the dominion. By unceasing care ho raised the schools to a degree of efficiency un- known until his time. Being named to the See of King- ston, the mother church of Ontario, he was pleased to appoint the Rev. Isaac John MacCarthy, then serving the mission of Williamstown, Glengarry, pastor of his own beloved Brockville, the lalter taking charge on the 20th day of April, 1875, the very day after the consecration of the new bishop. No pari.shoners ever more lamentcil the departure of a pastor than did the people of St. Francis Xavier's, that of Father O'Brien ; and assuredly, seldom was a new bishop ever more welcome to a priesthood and people, than was the Right Rev. John O'Brien, to the priests and people of the diocese of Kingston. Learned, eloquent, saintly ; be- loved by high and low, rich anil poor, never did the future seem brighter for a prelate. But the ways of God are inscrutable. A little more than four short years, and the " beloved of God and men " is suddenly struck dowi' in the very prime of life, and turn from a devoted inconsolable people. During the eleven years and three months, the period of Father MacCarthy 's incumbency, the generous and ever zealous people of Saint Francis Xavier's efi'ected a very e- (1 the fGoJ s, and dowii d )eviod Id ever very their pastor, ami occasionally for an assistant priest, raaintain- in(r the service.s of their pari.sh church in splendor, they built a parochial house — the rtnest in the diocese — valued, virith its dependencies, at SD.OOO, and surrounded with grounds uiost artistically laid out. Two properties were purchased for the use of the Sisters of the Congregation de Notre Datne, whom Father MacCarthy introduced in the autumn of 1878, costing about $12,000. They also subscribed most generously towards procur- ing an establishment for Sisters of ( Charity ; a work that fortunately has since been realized. Three bazaars — not to speak of other etibrts — yield- ed over 1$15,0()0 ; the last and third during Father Mac- Carthy 's time, bringing in nearly seven thousand dollars, probably the largest amount ever made at a Catholic parish- bazaar, up to that time, in Canada. A SUCCESSFUL liAZAAR. (From the Brockville Monitor, published bi/ John McMullcn, Esq.) The bazaar recently held in aid of the fund of the separate schools of Brockville, proved an immense success, as the card of thanks, published elsewhere by the ladies interested, shows. Mrs. john Murray's and Mrs. P. Cavanagh's tables, for which there was I working staff of seventy-live ladies, returned the large sum of j|33U3.42. The convent ladies, who had a helping staff of forty-six, came next with $1208.16. Mrs. Delaiiey'a table, with au ahsistant ataff of twenty-stV' n ladies, re' 'ned $1135.45, Mrs. John Ryan's table, which liad tivo lady assip us, returned $581.50. The refreshment table produced $275.3' .1 the door receipts 1191.05. The gi I total if the wide receipts was $6,844.25 ! ! ! m R^jp' 156 Recollections of Rome, If the members of St. Francis Xavier's Church have bazaars only at long intervals (the last was held about four years ago), they manage by their unity and great industry to make them wonder- fully succesafu!. They will now be able to do a great deal for their schools (already in a flourishing state)^ and put them in a most ex- cellent shape. They have certainly a tower of strength in their worthy and popular clergyman, the Rev. Father MacCarthy, who has done so much to elevate their educational and social status since his advent in Brockville. They owe that gentleman a deep debt of gratitude for all the admirable work he has accomplished in their midst. {From the Montreal Gazette.) The ladies of Brockville have realized the handsome sum of nearly $7,000 by their bazaar in aid of the Catholic schools of that city. The bazaar was under the patronage and direction of Father MacCarthy, parish priest of Brockville, whose popularity and active assistance lent no little aid to this gratifying result. Eight teachers, five nuns and three seculars, conduct the schools, frequented by over four hundred children. His Lordship the Right Rev. J. V. Cleary, S.T.D., the present Bishop of Kingston, visited Brockville in June, 1881, for the first time, and was greeted with a magnifi- cent reception ; all — Protestants and Catholics — vieing f o do honor to the new bishop, and at the same time, show their love, respect and veneration for their parish priest. The altars, frescoing, five stained glass windows, valued at $3,000 — were obtained during Father MacCarthy's time ; and the old church completely renovated and most coramodiously fitted up for the male department of the separate school. i and Other Places. 157 sing ^0 show priest. valued ki'thy's most )f the The Scapular, Living Rosary, Temperance and Holy Family confraternities flourished ; the membership of the latter amounting to nearly five hundred. This society met every Wednesday evening at 7.50, for rosary, in- struction and benediction. The annual devotion of the " Forty Hours " was kept with much splendor; a large number, generally 800 approaching the sacraments. One year there were six thousand communions. The Young Men's Catholic Literary Association was much encouraged, and proved a real blessing to the parish. A branch of the Catholic Mutual Benevolent Associ- ation was established, with an excellent membership. Two missions were given during Father MacCarthy's pastorate, and proved eminently successful. Rev. Father O'Loughlin, a most accomplished and gifted preacher, conducted the first, of course, with Right Rev. Bishop Cleary's permission ; the other was given by the Rev. Oblat Father Barber, who visited the whole diocese. Rev. Father MacCarthy's Jubilee. (From the Brockville Evening Recorder.) Friday, June 22nd, 1883. On Wednesday the Catholics of this town celebrated the Silver Jubilee, or 26th Anniversary of their pastor, Father MacCarthy's elevation to the priesthood. On the preceding evening, the reverend gentleman and a few friends were entertained by the schoolchildren, under the direction of the nuns, at a dramatic and musical soiree. The eflSciency with which the programme was carried out, testi- 158 Meeollections of Rome, fied to the ability of the nuna, and to the care which had been bestowed on the children's training. On Wednesday morning, at the High Mass, which was sung by Rev. Father MacCarfchy, the choir of St. Francis Xavier's rendered In happy style for the first time, the celebrated Messe Bordelaise — the leading part being creditably sustained throughout by Mrs. Shields. In the evening, the services were opened by the choir singing Lambillotte's ** Quid retribuayn." Rev. Father O'Loughlin then preached a magnificent discourse on the "Dignity of the Prijsthood." It is quite true to say, up to this, probably nothing surpassing this sermon had ever been heard within the walls of St. Francis Xavier's. Solemn benediction then followed. One of its pleasing features was the execution of Zingarelli's " Laiuiate," by the pupils of the convent schools. Great credit is dije to Miss Caroline Braniff, for her excellent interpretation of the lengthy solo, which she sang with much feeling and spirit. The Te Deum concluded the religious portion of the day's solemnities. The committee of gentlemen of the congregation then pro- ceeded to the gate of the sanctuary, where Mr. John Murray read the following address to Rev. Father McCiirthy : — Reverend and Dear Father, — We, the members of the Pre- sentation Committee, approach you on this 25th anniversary of your ordination to the priesthood, to offer you, in the name of your flock, whose representatives we are, our united congratulations, as the outward expression of our sincere participation in your solemn joy, together with a small token of our great esieem for your per- sonal and priestly qualities, and a sincere, but inadequate, tribute f our deepest gratitude for the many blessings which under heaven your pastorship has conferred upon us. A quarter of a century has elapsod since the imj)osition of con- secrating hands made you a " priest fop ever, according to the Order and Other Places. 159 Pre- ry of your, IS, as emn per- bute uder con- >rcl er of Melchisedech,' and the unstained record of your sacerdotal and p-Mtoral career evidences, on one hand, the omniscience of God ; on the other, the fitness of the candidate whom He chose from among thousands on that eventful day to be the representative on earth of His Divine Son and His helper in the sublime work of Ilttdeniption. You may look back with feelings of no me m pleasure and grati- fication upon the long roll of years that separate you from the auspicious morning of your ordination. Your causes for joy and your titles to our esteem are manifold. Suffice it to single out for our respect your character as a gentle- man, and for our love and veneratiori, the higher qualities which, as priest and pastor, you so eminently possess. Your unobtrusive manners, polished deportment and genuine politeness have won for you the esteem, not only of your co-reli- gionists, but of members of all denominations, in every section of society. The ease of access which you furnish, your equanimity of temperament, your punctuality in engagements, and the acumen you bring to bear on matters subjected to your judgment, have enabled ihose who have had business relations with you, to pro- nounce it not merely a pleasure but a privilege to deal with you. But it is chiefly in the discharge of your pastoral duties that your sterling qualities come to the surface, and your fitness for the high office you hold, is revealed. The labors of your predecessors, it is true, had bequeathed you a magnificent temple : but you. Rev. Father, by well directed efi'iirtp, by a rare display of good taste, by a careful selection of ecclesiasti- cal appurtenances, in a word, by judiciously pressing the arts into the service of God, have made it still more worthy of Him. While they, your predecessors, might with a lawful pride, point to the mt"iorial of their successful exertions and exclaim to the be- holder : Monnmentum si quaris, (iHpice ! you with a no less legiti- mate pride and pleasure may indicate the various useful and artistic improvements you have effected in its interior, and exclaim in the KiO Recollections of Rome, words of the Itoyal Psalmist, " I have loved, Lord, the beauty of thy house ! " The scrupulous cleanlinesB which in the church you enforce by word and example entitle you to appropriate the conclusion of that ardentapostrophe, " 1 have loved the place where Thy glory dwell- eth." Your faithful, intelligent and practical interpretation of the mystic and impressive ceremonial of the immortal Church of Qod in her functions and services, the result of careful ecclesiastical training, evinces the deep and loving faith which animates you in your holy and awe-inspiring treatment of the Divine Guest who dwells on our altars. In this respect, we say it without fear of contradiction, the church in which you minister and we worship, compares favorably with every other in the diocese. The order and decorum with which, in accordance with the apostolic injunction, the ceremonies and divine offices are carried out, have taught us to realize the saying of the great St. Augustine, " Order leads to God." The solidity of your instructions which, as the exponent of God's mind and word, you address to us from the pulpit and in the sacred Tribunal, the unction of your language/ the earnestness of your delivery, make it manifest that they come from a loving heart and the well-garnered store-room of a cultivated mind. This well deserved eulogium would be very incomplete were we to pass over in silence the interest you have always taken in the important matter of education. By your action, more than by your language you have impressed upon us the truth, which in our days especially cannot be too often and too forcibly inculcated, that science i.. dy one and that the les- ser half of education. Your motto has ever been that of the Catholic Church, the civiliz'-: oi nations, "In Sanctitate et doctrina" — *' Holinesi before knowledge." The combination of both, but the paramount importance of the former, is the only true basis o education in its true sense. and Other Places. Ifil Hence both in your former and present parishe) you introduced the consecrated handmaids of the liord and entrusted to them the training and education of our daughters. With what complete success, the superior attainments and modest deportment of the children, the satisfaction of the parents, and the unbiassed opinion of all abundantly proclaim. All this and more, forces on us the conclusion that you were providentially chosen to till the place of your worthy predecessor, our late lamented and re- vered Bishop. We pray, then, dear Father, that you may be long spared to us as our pastor, to share in our joys and griefs, to be, as heretofore, our prop in adversity, our guide in diffi rulties, our influential model in the paths of life. We sincerely hope that time— edar rerum, as the poet says, may deal gently by you, and that when another quarter of a century shall have passed over us, your silver jubile<) may have been succeeded by a golden one, and that we may be here as to-day to share in your joy and to offer our congratulations and the tribute of our life-long gratitude. Signed on behalf of the congregation, Hon. C. F. Frasek, Michael McGlade, John Murray, T. W. Downey, Patrick Cavanagh, John Ryan, Thomas Braniff. we Ihe led len Ihe In" lut To which Father MacCarthy replied : My Dear Friends, — It is with feelings of no ordinary pleasure that I have received your addro-ss pn tliis auspi- cious occasion — the twenty-fifth anniversary of my ele- vation to the sacred order of the priesthood. So well aware am I of your sterling qualities, of your generosity and goodness of heart, of the affection and de- votion the Catholics of Brockville have entertained al- ways for their priests, and the many proofs I myself have 162 Mi- '3 Recollections of Rome, ■■!: .-(■ '-■■•■' r-. 1,,, had of all this during the past eight years, make it im- possible forme to say you have taken me by surprise. I know your worth, too long and too well, to wonder at your kindly action on this thrice hallowed day. Since my appointment by the Right Reveren I Dr. O'Brien, whom I have had the honor to succeed in thecare of this lovely parish, I have found you, my cherished people, all 1 could desire ; affectionate, loyal, true, and generous beyond measure ; ever willing to act on my suggestions — almost anticipating my wishes, and ready always to work with me and to second my every effort in the interest of our holy religion, and the grand cause of Catholic education. To you then, after God, with much thankfulness, I acknowledge I owe the brilliant success to which you so graciously refer, which has crowned my labors in your midst, and which gives St. Francis Xavier's so proud a place among the Catholic churches of the Do- minion. Nor, my dear friends, are these mere assertions. The thousands that you have given and which I have expend- ed on your noble church ;■ on the elegant parochial resi- dence ; on the schools ; and lastly, on the magnificent house and grounds lately acquired for the use of the ac- complished and devoted ladies, who, so carefully, so reli- giously, and so ably instruct our little girls, without any invidious distinctions, all bear mo out in saying you have on all occasions most generously and most effectually as- sisted me ; and that to you indeed is to be attributed the glory of that which has been done. The costly gift accompanying your eloquent address and Other Places. 163 Uo- resi- icent e ac- reli- any have yas- d the Idress was not needed to convince me of your love and veneration — dearer far to me than its precious metal and glistening gems. However, often will it remind me of this bright day, when so many, and such valued friends met together, of- fering at the foot of the altar of God, their heartfelt wish- es and fervent prayers, for my temporal and eternal wel- fare. I accept it then with unfeigned gratitude, assuiing you that the proceedings of this solemn festivity — as [)leasing to me as they are creditable to this parish — shall be an- other link in the golden chain binding me, if possible, more closely to my beloved people, whose interests in the future, as in the past, shall have ever the first claim upon me. Again, my dear friends, I beg to assure you of my last- ing gratitude ; to offer to you the expression of my per- fect thanks, and to say, I find it very difficult indeed to command language which will express with sufficient earnestness, my deep sense of the kindness of which I have been the honored recipient to-day. Brock viLLE, June 2()th, 1883. The presentation was then ninde to tlie Rev'd. gentle- man, of a magnificent chalice and set of Breviaries. The chalice is of solid silver, chased in gold — the nodus is encrusted with amethysts, and the foot ornamented with a silver cross set in brilliants. The Breviaries (4 Vols.) are solidly bound in Russian leather, and interleaved with colored and other miniature 1G4 Jiecollections of Rome, li engravings, taken originally from the illuminated missals of the Middle Ages. The commemoration of this Silver Jubilee with its harmonious proceedings, constitutes one more link in the long chain of affection and esteem which unites the Catholics of Brockville to their worthy Pastor. Many beautiful offerings were privately presented by individual members of the conorregation. The address, in book form, was bound in crimson mo- rocco, richly gilt and splendidly illuminated. The Hon. C. F. Fraser, always a fast friend of the Rev. Pastor, and formerly one of his pupils in Kegiopolis College, had seen to the preparing of it in Toronto It is a credit to the eminent illuminators. In May, 1885, his Lordship, Bishop Cieary, visited the mission and confirmed 147 persons, ten of whom were converts. He arrived on the afternoon of Ascension Thursday and remained till Monday following. During his visit an address was presented in the Church, on behalf of the congregation ; another at the rooms of the Catholic Literar}-^ Association ; and one at the convent, where a very pleasing entertainment was given in His Lordship's honour. In fact, all entering into the spirit of their pastor, who by word and example al- ways endeavoured to surround the episcopal dignity with the greatest respect, did their utmost to make this visit memorable among the events of the Brockville Mission. li 'I and Other Places. 165 His Lordship, in replying to the address from the pul- pit, assured the people of his regard and good will towards them. He extolled the pastor, speaking of him in the highest, most flattering terms, and assuring the people that, " if he did not come to their parish oftener, the rea- son was — his presence was not required there. Some parishes he visited two and three times a year ; but every- thing was correct in Brock ville — they knew it and he knew it — therefore he did not deem it necessary." His Lordship's remarks gave intense satisfaction, not only to the large congregation present, but to the entire parish. n the it the |>ne at was into )le al- th wi risit August, 1886. — His Lordship was pleased to remove the Reverend Father McCarthy to another mission. The whole parish most respectfully begged the Bishop not to do so. Protestants and Catholics alike were deeply grieved at the decision. An address was forwarded to Kingston, signed most numerously by the best people of the town, without effect. Finding Father McCarthy had but a very short time to remain in Brockville — in fact that he was to leave next morning — an address was hurriedly prepared, and a purse of $500 presented to him the same night. The following is from the town daily papers : — lion. i 166 Recollections of Rome, 'Daily Times.) A DESERVED TRIBUTE PAID TO FATHER m'oAUTHY OX LKAVINO aROOKVILLB, By kis former Parishioners, who testify iii, tangible manner the esteem in lohich they held him. When it became known to the congregation of St. Frarc'i Xavier's Church that His Lordship Bishop Cleary had decided upon removing the Rev. Father MacCarthy from the parish of Brockville, a deep feeling of regret was expressed at his departure by people of all classes and creeds. For eleven years Father McCarthy has ministered to the spiri- tual needs of those belonging to the Roman Catholic Church in Brockville, and during that time lie has won the respect and esteem of all. So strong was this feeling that it .was felt that the occasion of his leaving could not be allowed to pass without, in some way, giving tangible evidence of it. Accordingly yesterday morning a number of his friends set to work and during the day raised the handsome sum of $i'Sd, with which to present the reverend father. Had there been time this sum could have been largely augmented. The presentation took place last evening. The members of St. Francis Xavier's Church, to the number of about two hundred, assembled in the rooms of the Catholic Literary Association, and proceeded thence to the residence of his sister, Mrs. Shannon, where Father MacCarthy was staying. Here they were tendered a hearty reception and made as com- fortable as possible. Rev. Father MacCarthy was then called to the front, when Mr. John Murray, read the following ADDKESS. Ihe Rvv. Isaac J. MacCaithy : Rlv. and Deak Sir, — In view of the fact that our petitions and entreaties have been unavailing, and that we are unable to retain h M 1;^ and Other IHaces. 167 corn- ed to and bbtain you as our pariah prient, we feel, in gratitude for your past kind min- istrations, bound to meet yo\i here this evening and express to you our deep and heart-felt regret at being compelled to be parted from you. We feel that your wmuval is a calamity to ua ; and when we con- sider what you have accomplished within the comparatively few years that you have been in the parish — for instance the schools, the convent?, the presbytery ; the embellishing atid near comple- tion of our beautiful and spacious church, and many other minor things, all of which bear witness, and are standing and living moiitnnents of your energy and zeal, well may we feel that for a while your absence may prove retrogressive, but we trust in (Jod, and hope it will bo for our mutual good. Not only do we feel your loss aa a parochial worker and paitaktr of our wants and daily vicissitudes, but wo feel that we have lost a friend and a father, one in sympathy with uSj and always anxious to promote cur temporal aa well as spiritual welfare, in fact, dear father, we feel asi orphans. In our bereavement, however, wo know that though separated, you will think of ua often, and not cease to implore the Almighty God to shower His blessings upon ua all. It is a great consolation to us, na we are assured it is to you, to know of the unanimity of feeling and of love which this entire con- gregation entertains towards you, and, in leaving us, we can as- sure you that many an eye will moisten, and many a heart will throb and swell with painful emotion ; in a word, you carry with you to your new home the love and eateem and the confidence of the whole parish. As an evidence of our aincority wo herewith present you this purse. Though small in amount, it is nevertheless a tuken of our regard and our gratitude, as well as an acknowledgment of oi r filial alfection. May God bless you. Brockville, Aug. 27th, 188G. llev. Father MacOarthy replied in appropriate and most atl'ect- ing terms, thanking them for their remembrance and invoking the divine llessing upon them in their future lives. 168 Recollection!* of Rome, i \ Asatato)! hofort!, the proaent was a piii^e containing the hnnd- fonno auni of nemly l85()(>. F.itlidr MacCarthy han lieun twuiity-uight yeara in the miniatry. For nuventuen yearn he was in the pariah of Williamatown. He then came to Hrockvillo, and liaa been here eleven yeara. Fie now i{oea hack t<) again take charge of the VVilliainatown p iriah, and carriea with him the beat wiahea and kindest regnrda of the people of Brockville, Catholic and Proteatant alike. The namea of the gentlemen that signed the ' Requiaition ' to the Bishop will be found on another page at the end. From the Recorder, 27th August, 188G.— Rev. I. J. MacCarthy, ]a*^^e of S. F. X. C, was in town to-day bidding his host of friends farewell. He leaves to-night for Williamatown, and takes wi*-h him the earnest regards and best wishes of the people of Brockvillo, irreHpective of creeds. POPULAR PASTOR. (Practical testimonial to the Rev. lather MacCarthy.) (Recorder, Awpist 28th, 1.88G.) In no more striking way could the R. C. citizens of Brockville have shown their devotion to their late pastor, Rev. I. J. MacCarthy, and their regret at his removal to Williarastown, than in the way they did last night. Learning that he was in town bidding adieu to old frienda, and that he intended taking his departure by the early train thia morn- ing, they at once commenced preparing for him a auitable testi- monial. There were only a few hours in which to do the work, but that it was done well is apparent from the fact, that before 8 o'clock last ni^ht a handsome addreaa and a purse containing 8432.25 had been in the hands of those who originated the movement. and Other Places. 169 Ikville • wthy, way and lorn- Iteati- that last Ibeen Shortly after that hour a meeting was held in the rooms of the 0. L. A., when a procession, including about two hundred gentle- men was formed. The party proceeded to the residence of the reverend gentleman's sister, Mrs. Shannon, Victoria street, where the presentation was made, Mr. John Murray reading the address- Knowing the spontaneous nature of the testimonial, and re- cognizing the spirit in which it had been presented, the reverend gentleman was naturally filled with emotion, but in a feeling man- ner testified his appreciation and gratitude. The address was nicely gotten up, reflecting much credit upon the gentlemen charged with it. {From B. Monitor, July Idth, 1886.) The Rev, Father MacGarthy — Very few men of Brockville have ever occupied aa largo a place in the affection and esteem of their respective congregations as the reverend gentleman, whose name heads this paragraph, but not only is F. MacO. esteemed by his own congregation, but also by the whole community. His exertions in behalf of his own people have been most unremitting and most suc- cessful ; and their social standing to-day among the community, is a long way above what it was when he took charge of his present parish. Under these circumstances his approaching departure from amongst us cannot fail to be a matter of deep regret to a large number of persona, and we sincerely hope the change will be a better one for him. We believe that his new position has not yet been assigned to him, but we hope that it will be auch a one as he certainly merits at the hands of his ecclesiastical Superi