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WOOL AND ITS MANUFACTURE '>'- 1 -ver himself anent the grades and purposes in manufacture of the wool he produces. ck of inforoiation in this regard is especially to be regretted since it precludes the grower from disposing of his product to the best advantage. To assist farmers and city dwellers alike to gain a more complete and definite knowledge of the character of wools grown in this and other countries, and of the products t.anufactured therefrom, the wool exhibit of the Live Stock Branch, Dominion Department of Agriculture, is presented to the public. The technical terms used in describing the various specimens in the exhibit may, perhaps, prove puzzling at times. Therefore, a full and concise explanation of these, and a popular description of the worsted and woollen processes of manufacture, out- lining the essential stages in the transformation of wool to cloth, have been prepared in this pamphlet. THE WOOL FIBRE. The wool fibre possesses many peculiar physical properties, which especially adapt it for textile purposes. It is covered with minute scales, apparent only under the microscope, and resembling to some extent those upon fish, which not only impart strength to the fibre but give to it its distinctive lustre. When a scale is inju' : .,r destroyed through disease, mechanical or other agency, a weak section will exist in the fibre at that point, thus decreasing its tensile strength and rendering it unfit to withstand the strain of tlie combing process in worsted manufacture. The interlocking or fitting of the scales of one fibre intn those of another creates felting or close mattioc 901-<^1J fc a « Jum .tl "f ^ " ""^'^ '™If -"-•«>-« the entire circumference of the or e;en mteir andT:? T" *5' ^^^P^'^''^ - Hampshire Down. two. three Leicester or Li^c^^: s^l Ta ^ '"'"•'• '"''^"'^ ^^^ *^^ -"> "^ '^^ ^otswold. WAVINKM im ritiup. Ex»inined casually, it will be obM-rved that the wool fibre potieaiea a wavy or curled appearance, which is teolmically known m crimp. A heaty crimp produces eompactneM of fieece, and the closer the wool the more effectirely will it retain the yolk or Rreaae which exudes naturally from the ekin of sheep and tends to r-wvent rain or snow from penetrating to the body. The decree of crimp bears a distinct rrlation to the diameter of the fibre. Fine wools have greater crimp than coarse. It has been estimated that Merino wool will bear as many as twenty-four to thirty waves •ler inch; Southdown, thirteen to einhteen. and Lincoln, only three to five. The average diameters of tlit' fibres upon which were based the foregoing data were: For Merino, .00064 of an inch; Southdown. 001; and Lincoln, 0018. These figures will bIso serve to illustrate the extreme minuteneM of the wool fibre. Compared with humnn hair, even Lincoln wool is finer. TARIATIONS IN LtSOTH. Considerable variation occurs in the length of the wool fibre in the some Hcece, ns well as in different sheep. The shortest wool is upon the belly; the longest, on the thighs. Generally speaking, the coarser the wool, the longer it is in the natural state, but this cannot be taken as a definite criterion, fo .nany of the medium-wooled breeds have coarser, yet shorter, wool than the Merino. The length cannot be estimated accurately by merely opening the wool upon the shei'p without a thorough examination of the extent of crimp. A fine .Merino fibre may he fttretched by hand easily thirty per cent beyond its criminil length, and by ttradual pressure upon o machine fully that much more. The average range of wools in length is between two and eight inches, and the number of fibres growing \h'T siiuare inch. b<'tween 4,000 and 6,000. .\BSORrTION OF DVK. I;< dycifig, the central portion of the wool fibre underneath the scales alone absorbs tup eolouHni; nii»ner. The scales themselves become but slightly, if at all, changed. VVI --e the scales i»»e tli k i-nd eliiiji firmly, the sa no rich effect cannot be obtained nd open. Thcrpfore. this explains why one class of wool iiii^itli'T and also why such care m\ist be taken in the mill, ny st.vi. .1 of fabrics, to separate the fleei-e into lots containing as .vhere they W' »mnl ' ,1 not dye ->- rcaii ' 11 the manufii'turc - i imilar speeimcns. Difficjlty i*, 1. t> which are removed fr solution, ^inco the I' distribution of tiie i! cicnt nourishment, t colouring solution \< Kemps, wliicli an WDoled sheep, will al>si nature must Lie entirely r commences, constitutiuft n in this class also, since it im with a black cclour it i di: For this reason, dark wuol < Therefore, it may be readily if he hopes to obtain the hifrhi eliminate from his breeding tl of wool. ex|>erience»' sliKp after death, frequently by means of a lime ,..■ ontcs (he cells of the fibro and prevents the uniform . following a disease such as scab, or through insufll- »*•. V may oe iniiicrfectly developed and will not take the •tciry fashion. ,k, fibres, found mostly on the thighs or britch of coarse- 'fle dye, if any at all, and, consequently, all wool of this ved from the fle»>ce before the process of manufacture te pr-'luct. Black, brown or grey wool must be included 'le UBe«l only in dark-coloured fabrics. Moreover, even ' to ..{js'n it exi'ctly the same shade as white wool. "m>sTly !to til manufacture of natural underwear. ■-)d -rom tlii? cursory description how careful, ■ hi* jirodiict, the wool producer should be to ■in- -"ing I ■ nny degree n defective quality TESTS FOR WOOL IN CLOTH. POMd of WML^.nZ^ j".' u J '•"^'^'^ '■""'*"'' '^ "itfi^ally '^"n food, com- cloth ;nT««"'L'°' ?"? !""^ ^ P^-rformed b; wo method., namely, by boilin. UM, ootton ,nuct. or by u.in» ..milarly « five p. ocnt «>lution of .ulphuric • , Kib™. of ootwroM WOOL Magnified X« time,. Kib... „ ,>,,,^ wool. Magnified 300 tiniM. jrSct'rho^dre'i'f^frweiu^' rm^r ""' --^-''.^••^jr"^'-''* will .how the de^ of eaS. luS.lc : „ T Sfl.^-^ l^'fr ""7*1* "''^^ f^r which it wLhn^Ll^/^'- ""''"""• "" '"""^ "* " •'°«'»* '"««'^e« the purpo™ 1 wo^i^u": !r:Si.;i"s?tior" ^°"'"^"'^ ^-" '"^ ^'•^ "'- •«>'«'• ^^"^ -^ CLASSIFICATION OF WOOLS IN THE FLEECE (GRADING). in. ?nr't"'t"u!' ''f ' '" '^^ ^"^^ comprehends what is technically called pad- '"t, '"^ '^°"''' •^ performed by the ^ower or dealer before the wool reachefti m.II. Or.d.„g is do .e without untying the fleece and three distinTdivU on" re made according to the Condition, Quality. Staple .r Length of the wool livery w'ool-grow.ng country has its own special methods of classification a-d ih. own nomenclature for the different grades, which, however, are mo.^ or 1«° simila^ and alhed. Canadians, owing to contingencies of market. \Cm^ZrZZX lntere»ted i. uii'ifrntamliiiii tho«e oi (Sreat Britain atid the I'nited States, and la corrplRting Mem wi»K our own. Fo' Miii purpow si.nii' Bttcntion will be given to ft deacription A the*e. Little JiS'.rence e».:»t» in the form of gnd'xuK acconliii« i ■ .inHii I'li.Tpfori, a bald »•- "u o' it «» | .wtiml in thi» country ithouUi be iutticie. ¥i\ttnk iif tnrrino wool. MuKnitird Mu imM. Kil.rm uf Lincoln wool. Maitniflnl 7A tinira. A end B flbiM uk«n (riHD xliinildttr. C«nd t> from britcl'. Conditio.^. Unwashed or Oreo**.— (Wool shorn from the i^heep in it» natural condition.) Washed.— (Vfool washed with soap aaJ water upon the aheep'g back.) Untr eha»table.—{y/ oo\ poorly washed or not shorn for »ome time .iter wash- ing.) Tubwashed. — (Wool scoured by hand with soap nnd water frequently contnining a weak solution of caustic alkali, after it has been removed from the sheep.) Sfourfi.— (Wool cleansed in the mill by efficient machinery.) Rejection or Reject.— {VfooX containing an excessive quantity of seeds, burra, straw, hay or kemp.) Cotted Reject 01 Co^».— (Wool matted together. Cotting is created by ill-healJi and is due to lack of sufficient yolk or grease in the wool, which ordinarily keeps the fibres from stickinr together.) Black or Qrey Reject.— {ViooX containii ' numerou- ick, brown or gre-' r. •;.) Tagg, bung Lockn or Stained Pieces. Short locks generally besmirchad with manure.) PxiUed or 5itin.— (Wool removed from the pelts of dead sheep.) SHRINKAGE FROM WASHING. Washing removes only the foreign material or dirt and creates a shrinkage in weight from fifteen per cent to twenty-two per cent on the average. Not only the dir^ but the yolk or grease as well nre taken from the wool by scouring and it is left in a thoroughly clean condition ready for xr '-ing into yarn. Tubwashing is an attempt wool can be* i!!!S**^"'^** V **^""''«f. but the process is ,,„♦ .„ a ■ Quality. Quality refers in this resnw-t ♦„ « Am<>rican. •British. Canadian. Dome Fin*- One-half Bioiid Three-eighth. Bli^d ' ' ' Une-quarter Blood ifZ ™'«^l'""-ter Bloiid nim<)n Braid . RangH, 64-8 to «8'g| 66-» Fine. iFinr. Wg Finemediiiiii.! ... 3(V« Medium Mediinii. ■»J B to 46'» f^w medium Wa Coanw Low. •W« Ltutnr .j,| AMERICA.V CLASSIFICATION. Cru« action „f wool fibre. Magnified 4,50 by Picklock, derived from the Saxony Slerino, which is generally conceded the finest type produced in the world. This breed is confined almost entirely to Germany, and is not railed at all extensively. American wools are also divided into Territory and Domestic classes. The former refers to Western range wools; the latter, to Eastern and Middle Western, such as is produced on the small farm. Range wool is of a finer character than the other, being either Merino or a Merino cross. It therefore possesses, usually, a higher shrinkage owing to the excessive greasiness of the Merino, but contains little or no straw or cha£F which unfortunately are found all too frequently in Eastern wool. These conditions apply in similar fashion to Canadian wools. BKIT18II CLASSIFICATION. Differences in the spinning qualities of wool on the worsted principle are taken as the basis of the British system of grading. The factor used is called a count. A single count, which represents the standard or unit, will produce, from one pound of scoured wool, a fixed number of yards of spun yarn. Wool twice as fine as the estab- GrndiiiK and iKicking wcx>l, Alberta Wool (irower's Amouiation. lished standard will spin ns far again, since the weight being the same there must be double the number of fibres, and would thus represent two counts or, as commonly abbreviated, 2s. Tliererfore, the finer the wool, the higher will be the counts. A com- parison of the range of fineness in the various classes i-an readily be obtained from the foregoing table. CANADIAN CLASSIFICATION. No organized method of grading Canadian wools has been pursued on a national scale. This is being overcome, however, now that the sheep industry is in a state of rapid development and is fast becoming a permanent asset in the agricultural system of the country. Domestic fine medium combing. Eastern j Western) Eaftsrn j Western j Eastern ] Western/ Eastern Western) Eastern | Western! Eastern i Western) Eastern j Western) Eastera Domestic medium combing. Domestic low medium combing. Domestic coarse combing. Domestic lustre combing. Domestic fine medium clothing. Domestic medium clothing. Domestic low medium clothing. Western range fine staple. Western range medium staple. Western range low staple. Western range fine clothing. Western range medium clothing. Western range low clothing, "ejections. Grey and black, i-ocks and pieces. Tags. which are the most rariabllXlir;;::^ "^'^^^ «heep of one of the DorbSs' of the Cotswold. Lincoln «nd LeLsterTs^h. "^T '^'''" ^"^ «»<» braid^he S classed as other than braid. " '' '^' ""^^ '^^•»'«t«nt in quality, and seldom "s Fleec ^''*'"''^" "'* ^^"■'^Th. ]; 11 a SKIRTING THE FLEECE. Skirting comprehend* the removal -.om the body of the fleece of the inferior portions. This custom is followed mostly with fine wools and very high ir^«de cixMUi- breds. In Australia and New Zealand the grower performs this operation before packing and shipping to market. It i«. perhaps unfortunately, but little practised Thrdwree and fashion of skirting wools are not fixed factors, depending upon the demands of special markets. The tags, dung locks and britch only may be taken Wool Scouring Mdcbinery. off, but skirting in the true sense means the removal of the neck and belly pieces aa well. These are packed and sold separately. Wools, thus skirted, will claim a higher price, since they will meet a more favour- able reception from manufacturers who prepare a specialized line of goods and do not use every part of the fleece. Wool disposed of upon the London, England, market must needs be in this condition if a satisfactory sale is to be obtained. SORTING THE FLEECE. Sorting must not be confused with grading. They are two entirely different operations. Grading consists of the separation of the entire fleeces into lots of similar character nnent condition, quality and staple; while sorting comprises the breaking up of the fleece itself into unit parts. Sorting is performed in the mill before scour- ing. The sorter places the fleece upon a table which is covered with wire netting, through which a portion of the dust and small locks of wool fall. The fleece is torn apart by hand and the different lots thrown into huge portable baskets. The number and nature of the sorts will vary with the grade of wool and the style of goods to be manufactured. To serve as a practical illustration, a medium of fleece may be roughly differentiated into five classes or sorts: First, back, aides and brisket; second, neck; third belly; fourth, thighs; and fifth, brokes or short locks and tags. ur »courinjr is thr , that he can use W„ j • *'"">» W,x,i. ^^^^"^^^^^B since shrinkar-'; "^ Purchased upon H,« k • CARB0X;ZATI0]V. able port,^' ;tS?'^'' """" - t^''- fron. t,. , . hea;'"%hi""°" "^ -'PJ^tit'a rd^ar.d"''r"' ""■''" -^ s'^^'f -'-J.-l ^-r card- 18 All this shoild help to nhow how troublesome dirty wool is to manufacturers and. if shcep-ruiwrs ex|H-ct keen competition in the purchase of their wool, or a lujth i)rice, the prepnriitioii (if a olean article is absolutely necessary. OlSTIXCTION HKTWKEN WORSTED AND WOOLLEN FABRICS. Most people speak of .vnrn or clotb containing wool as a woo'len, which teclinie.illy is incorrect. Woollen, as opposed to worsted, represents a specif c type of fabric and a special process of manufacture. „ . . , ... i u- i • Woollens and wor.^eds principally differ m t'.ie character of the wool which is .luployed in their manufacture. The fibres entering worsted yarns are straighteiuil out by what is called a comb, so that they not only lie parallel but are of uniform kiigtli. The short wools or noil are removed, and cannot be used under this principle. On the other hand, woollens are mnde from yarns in which short wool can be utilized to iidvaiitage, and the fibres cross, are matted together and line in every direction. Packing wool in b»l"s Therefore, it can lie readily reeoffiiized why the term combing '.ength is used in urad- iujr. the reference licinsr to ii . PROCKSS OF MASIFACTIKE. Tiie resultiiiit product of the combs is called top. This is drawn and redrawn several times by niacliinery until reduced sufficiently in size for spinning. At this point it is driven the title of roving. Drawing still proceeds in spinniiip until the propter si/c of tl:read is i.ctained. when, ..Ither singly or two or more strands twisted together, it will 'le transferred to the weaving looms. Weaving consists of passing 14 done .itw .„ Ap^r eiLtr'^pSXt r^t'j.o^'""' "- •^' miimnoATioN or oloths. tion of colours no* w orlnm^n^ w ^ "'"^^ '"• *»^*«'' 'nd ^ di*«i"c- of the thread. The princLl wowtld^ d th r^ p ''*?* «rration« or nmrk. included in the woollen So JTs^eatr M.lt^ ^ ^"''^ ""*"•''«'* '"^^^ •>«- Cheviot, and Broadcloths ThJ^™»!f,f::» * «nd Kenry overcoatingg, Tweed., woollen procew •"* manufacture of underwear is also essentially n SHODDY. Di«((r8ni khowiug the different qualitie. of wool 1" » dome«tic medium fleece. fabric; as E^rLt. Owing To the hck T!""f "^ T^ V"^ ""*'""' «*"«•* « U«i- fibres, shodd. is ^st ad:;fJVr^;Jr^i-^r„'UlT^^^^ °^ *^^ Di.«~n .bowing the diff«ent qn^itie. of wool in •