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 •"y:^/ a^ 
 
 m : 
 
 THE 
 
 COLUMBIA RIVER; 
 
 0B« 
 
 SCENES AND ADVENTURES 
 
 DURING 
 
 A RESIDENCE OF SIX YEARS ON THE WESTERN 
 SIDE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 
 
 AMONO 
 
 ■•♦ 
 
 VARIOUS TRIBES OF INDIANS 
 
 HITHERTO UNKNOWN ; 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 A JOURNEY ACROSS THE AMERICAN CONTINENT. 
 
 BY ROSS cox. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 VOL. I. 
 
 THIRD EDITION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, 
 
 NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 
 1832. 
 
L 
 
 , LONDON: 
 
 IBOTION AND PAIiHKB, PRINTaRS, SAVOY STRUT, STRAND. 
 
 y 
 
 i4 '">' 
 
TO 
 
 THE RIGHT HONORABLE 
 
 LORD FRANCIS LEVESON GOWER, 
 
 &C. &C. 
 
 THESE VOLUMES 
 
 ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 
 
 AS A SLIGHT TRIBUTE OF RESPECT FOR HIS LORDSHIP'S 
 
 CHARACTER AS A MAN, HIS TALENTS AS A POET, 
 
 AND 
 
 HIS CONSISTENCY AS A STATESMAN ; 
 
 BY 
 
 HIS lordship's obedient humble servant, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 15)3082 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The following Narrative embraces a period of six 
 years, five of which were spent among various 
 tribes on the banks of the Columbia River and 
 its tributary streams ; and the remaining portion 
 was occupied in the voyage outwards, and the 
 journey across the continent. 
 
 During this period the Author ascended the 
 Columbia nine times, and descended it eight; 
 wintered among various tribes ; was engaged in 
 several encounters with the Indians : was lost 
 fourteen days in a wilderness, and had many 
 other extraordinary escapes. 
 
 He kept journals of the principal events which 
 occured during the greater part of this peki.)c«» 
 the substance of which will be found embodied in 
 the following pages. Those who love to read of 
 " battle, murder, and sudden death," will, in his 
 description of the dangers and privations to which 
 the life of an Indian trader is subject, find much 
 to gratify their taste ; while to such as are fond 
 
 -\ 
 
vi 
 
 PllLtACE. 
 
 of nature, in its rudest and most savage turms, 
 he trusts his sketches of the wild and wanderingr 
 tribes of Western America may not be found un- 
 interesting. 
 
 They cannot lay claim to the beautiful colour- 
 ing which the romantic pen of a Chateaubriand 
 has imparted to his picture of Indian manners ; 
 for the Author, unfortunately, did not meet with 
 any tribe which approached that celebrated 
 writer's splendid description of savage life. He 
 has seen many of them before the contamination 
 of white men could have deteriorated their na- 
 tive character ; and, while he records with plea- 
 sure the virtues and bravery of some, truth com- 
 pels him to give a different character to the great 
 majority. -^ '- -■ ■ / '' - ; ' ■ v i 
 
 The press has of late years teemed with various 
 " Recollections," " Reminiscences," &c. of travels, 
 scenes, and adventures in well known countries, 
 but no account has been yet published of a 
 great portion of the remote regions ' alluded to 
 in this Work. They are therefore new to the 
 world ; and, if the Author's unpretending narra- 
 tive possesses no other claim to the public favor, 
 it cannot at least be denied that of novelty. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In the year 1670 a charter was granted by 
 Charles the Second to the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany, whose first governor was Prince Rupert, by 
 which the Company was allowed the exclusive 
 privilege of establishing trading factories on the 
 shores of that noble bay and its tributary rivers. 
 Owing to this charter, the fur-trade, which forms 
 an important and extensive branch of American 
 commerce, was for a long period monopolised by 
 the Company ; but, from the peculiar nature of 
 its constitution, little progress was made by its 
 officers in extending its trading posts, or ex- 
 ploring the interior, until the year 1770, when 
 Mr. Heame was sent on an expedition to the 
 Arctic Sea, for an account of which I beg to 
 refer the reader to that gentleman's simple and 
 interesting narrative. 
 
 While Canada belonged to France the Cana- 
 
VIU 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 dian traders had advanced many hundred miles 
 beyond Lake Superior, and established several 
 trading posts in the heart of the country, some of 
 which the voyageurs still call by their original 
 names; such as Fort Dauphin, Fort Bourbon, 
 and others. 
 
 The conquest of that province opened a new 
 source of trade to British enterprize ; and while 
 the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company fancied 
 their charter had secured them in the undisturbed 
 possession of their monopoly, an active and enter- 
 prising rival was gradually encroaching on their 
 territories, and imperceptibly undermining their 
 influence with the Indians; I allude to the North- 
 West Fur Company of Canada, which originally 
 consisted of a few private traders, but subse- 
 quently became the first commercial establish- 
 ment in British America. .(. . 
 
 It is not here necessary to enter into a detail of 
 the formation and increase of this Company. Its 
 first members were British and Canadian mer- 
 chants; among whom Messrs. Rocheblave, Fro- 
 bisher, Fraser, M'Tavish, Mackenzie, and M'Gil- 
 livray, were the most prominent. Their clerks were 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IX 
 
 chiefly younger branches of respectable Scottish 
 families, who entered the service as apprentices 
 for seven years ; for which period they were al- 
 lowed one hundred pounds, and suitable clothing. 
 At the expiration of their apprenticeship they 
 were placed on yearly salaries, varying from eighty 
 to one hundred and sixty pounds, and according 
 to their talents were ultimately provided for as 
 partners ; some, perhaps, in a year or two after 
 the termination of their engagements ; while others 
 remained ten, twelve, or sixteen years in a state 
 of probation. , 
 
 This system, by creating an identity of interest, 
 produced a spirit of emulation among the clerks 
 admirably calculated to promote the general 
 good ; for, as each individual was led to expect 
 that the period for his election to the proprietory 
 depended on his own exertions, every nerve was 
 strained to attain the long-desired object of his 
 wishes. 
 
 Courage was an indispensable qualification 
 not merely for the casual encounters with the In- 
 dians, but to intimidate any competitor in trade 
 with whom he might happen to come in collision. 
 
 
'i 
 
 X INTllODUCTION. 
 
 Success was looked upon as the great criterion of 
 a trader's cleverness; and provided he obtained 
 for his outfit of merchandise what was considered 
 a good return of furs, he partners never stopped 
 to inquire about the means by which they were 
 acquired. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company, on the contrary, 
 presented no such inducements to extra exertion 
 on the part of its officers. Each individual had a 
 fixed salary, without any prospect of becoming 
 a proprietor ; and some of them, whose courage 
 was undoubted, when challenged to single combat 
 by a Nor- Wester, refused ; alleging as a reason, 
 that they were engaged to trade for furs, and not 
 to fight with fellow-subjects ! 
 
 Independently of the foregoing circumstances, 
 the North West Company, in the selection of its 
 canoe-men, or, as they are called, engagSs, had 
 another great advantage over its chartered rival. 
 These men were French Canadians, remarkable 
 for obedience to their superiors ; and whose skill 
 in managing canoes, capability of enduring hard- 
 ship, and facility of adapting themselves to the 
 iiabits and peculiarities of the various tribes, ren- 
 
 i 
 
INTKODUCTIOX. 
 
 Xt 
 
 dered them infinitely more popular in the eyes of 
 the Indians than the stubborn, unbending, matter- 
 of-fact Orkney men, into whose ideas a work of 
 supererogation never entered.* 
 
 The diminished amount of their imports, joined 
 to the increased demand of goods from their fac- 
 tories, at length opened the eyes of the Hudson's 
 Bay directors to the success of their formidable 
 opponents, and induced them to attempt, when 
 too late, to arrest their career. By their charter 
 they now laid claim to the exclusive privilege of 
 trading, not merely on the English River and its 
 various branches, but also on the Saskachawan, 
 Red River, and all the other streams which empty 
 themselves into the great Lake Winepic, the 
 waters of which are carried to Hudson's Bay by 
 the rivers Nelson and Severn. ; ^ . .; 
 
 This territorial claim, unsupported by any phy- 
 sical power, had but little weight with their per- 
 severing rivals. They were far beyond the reach 
 of magisterial a'jthority ; and an injunction could 
 
 * The chief part of the boatmen and several of the officers 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company were, formerly, natives of the 
 Orkney Islands. 
 
h 
 
 xu 
 
 INTIIODUCTION. 
 
 i ) 
 
 not b^ easily served, nor obedience to it enforced, 
 in a country fifteen hundred or two thousand miles 
 beyond the limits of any recognised jurisdiction. 
 
 After establishing opposition trading posts ad- 
 joining the difierent factories of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company in the interior, the indefatigable 
 North-Westers continued their progress to the 
 northward and westward, and formed numerous 
 trading establishments at Athabasca, Peace River, 
 Great and Lesser Slave Lakes, New Caledonia, 
 the Columbia, &c. ; to none of which places did 
 the officers of the Hudson Bay attempt to follow 
 them. By these means the North-West Company 
 became undisputed masters of the interior. Their 
 influence with the natives was all-powerful : and 
 no single trader, without incurring imminent 
 danger from the Indians, or encountering the risk 
 of starvation, could attempt to penetrate into 
 their territories. 
 
 A few independent individuals, unconnected 
 with either company, the chief of whom was Mr. 
 John Jacob Astor, a wealthy merchant of New 
 York, still carried on a fluctuating trade with the 
 Indians, whose lands border Canada and the. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xm 
 
 United States ; but their competition proved inju- 
 rious to themselves, as prices far above their value 
 were frequently given to the natives for their 
 furs. 
 
 With the interior thus inaccessible, and the 
 confines not worth disputing, Mr. Astor turned 
 his thoughts to the opposite side of the American 
 continent ; and accordingly made proposals to the 
 North-West Company to join with him in forming 
 an establishment on the Columbia River. This 
 proposition was submitted to the consideration of 
 a general meeting of the wintering proprietors ; 
 and, after some negociations as to the details, re- 
 jected. 
 
 Mr. Astor therefore determined to make the 
 attempt without their co-operation ; and in the 
 winter of 1809 he succeeded in forming an as- 
 sociation called the " Pacific Fur Company," of 
 which he himself was the chief proprietor. As 
 able and experienced traders were necessary to 
 ensure success, he induced several of the gentle- 
 men connected with the North-West Company to 
 quit that establishment and join in his specula- 
 tion. Among these was Mr. Alexander M*Kay, 
 

 XIV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 i 
 
 an old partner, who had accompanied Sir Alex- 
 ander Mackenzie in his perilous journey across 
 the continent to the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 It was intended in the first instance to form a 
 trading establishment at the entrance of the Co- 
 lumbia, and as many more subsequently on its 
 tributary streams as the nature and productions 
 of the country would admit. It was also arranged 
 that a vessel laden with goods for the Indian 
 trade should sail every year from New York to 
 the Columbia, and after discharging her cargo at 
 the establishment, take on board the produce of 
 the year's trade, and thence proceed to Canton, 
 which is a ready market for furs of every descrip- 
 tion. On disposing of her stock of peltries at 
 the latter place, she was to return to New York 
 freighted with the productions of China. 
 
 The first vessel fitted out by the Pacific Fur 
 Company was the Tonquin, commanded by Capt. 
 Jonathan Thome, formerly a lieutenant in the 
 service of the United States. She sailed from 
 New York in the autumn of 1810, and had on 
 board four partners, nine clerks, with a number of 
 mechanics and voyageurs^ with a large and well 
 
I 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XV 
 
 assorted cargo for the Indian and Chinese trades. 
 Much about the same period a party under the 
 command of Messrs. W. P. Hunt, and Donald 
 Mackenzie, left Saint Louis on the Missouri, with 
 the intention of proceeding as nearly as possible 
 by Lewis and Clarke's route across the continent 
 to the mouth of the Columbia. This party con- 
 sisted, besides the above gentlemen, who were 
 partners, of three clerks, and upwards of seventy 
 men. 
 
 The following year, 1811, another vessel, the 
 Beaver^ of four hundred and eighty tons, com- 
 manded by Captain Cornelius Sowles, sailed for 
 the Columbia. She had on board one partner, 
 six clerks, and a number of artisans and voy- 
 ageurs, with a plentiful supply of every thing 
 that could contribute to the comfort of the crew 
 and passengers. 
 
 The exaggerated reports then in circulation re- 
 lative to the wealth to be obtained in the Colum- 
 bia, induced merchants of the first respectability 
 to solicit for their sons appointments in the new 
 Company ; and many of their applications were 
 unsuccessful. The Author, who was at this period 
 
7 
 k 
 
 XVI 
 
 INTUODUCTION. 
 
 Wk 
 
 w 
 
 in New York, captivated with the love of novelty, 
 and the hope of speedily realising an inde- 
 pendence in the supposed £/ Dorada^ exerted all 
 his influence to obtain a clerkship in the Company. 
 He succeeded, and was one of those who em- 
 barked on board the Beaver. 
 
 With what success his golden anticipations 
 were crowned, together with all his " travels' 
 history," will be amply detailed in the following 
 Narrative. 
 
 , 1 
 
 Ml^ 
 
 \\\ ''■ 
 
CONTENTS 
 THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Singularly luminous appearance of the ocean — The Equator— 
 Magellanic clouds — Falkland Island — Storm, and lou of 
 two men — Cape Horn — Dreadful storm — Island of JuHn 
 Fernandez and Massafuero — Trade winds in the Pacitio— 
 A shark— Arrival at Sandwich Islands. ... I 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Whoahoo — Visit from a chief — Nocturnal excursion — King 
 and queens — invasion of the ship — White men — Gardens 
 — Foot race, and summary justice— Throwing the spear- 
 Royal residence, and body guard — Mourning for a chief's 
 wife — Billy Pitt, George Washington, &c. . . 91 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Tamaahmaah — The Dooranee — Curious custom — Fickleness 
 in dress— Character of natives — Important position of tho 
 islands — Cow hunting — Complete our supplies — Take a 
 number of natives— Departure — Now discovery — Arrival 
 at the Culumbia. ....... 4(i 
 
 VOL. I. b 
 
 \ 
 
XVlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Account of the Tonquin — Loss of her chief mate, seven men, 
 and two boats — Extraordinary escape of Weekes — Erection 
 of Astoria — Mr. Thompson of the N. W. Company — Arrival 
 of Messrs. Hunt and Mackenzie, and sketchof their journey 
 overland 68 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Particulars of the destruction of the Tonquin and her crew — In- 
 dians attack a party ascending the river — Description of 
 fort, natives, and the country 88 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Departure from Astoria— Description of our party, lading 
 &c. — Appearance of river and islands — Fleas and musqui- 
 toes — First rapids, dangerous accident— Indian cemetery — 
 Ugly Indians — Gibraltar — Cape Horn — The narrows and 
 falls — Change in the appearance of the country — Attempt 
 at robbery — Mounted Indians 107 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Party commence eating horses — Remarkable escape from a 
 rattlesnake — Kill numbers of them — Arrive among the Wal- 
 lah Wallah tribe — Description of the country — The Pierced 
 nose Indians — Author's party proceeds up Lewis River — 
 Purchase horses for land-travelling — Prickly pears — Awk- 
 ward accident — Leave the canoes, and journey inland. 127 
 
 CHAPTER VIIL 
 
 Author loses the party — Curious adventures, and surprising 
 escapes from serpents and wild beasts during fourteen days 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XIX 
 
 in a wilderness — Meets with Indians, by whom he is hospi- 
 tably received, and conducted to his friends . . 144 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Remarkable case of Mr. Pritchard, who was thirty-five days 
 lost — Situation of Spokan House — Journey to the Flat- 
 head lands, and description of that tribe — Return to Spokan 
 House — Christmas day — Horse-eating — Spokan peculia- 
 rities — Articles of trade — A duel. . . 168 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Execution of an Indian for robbery — War between Great 
 Britain and the United States — Dissolution of the Paciiic 
 Fur Company — Author joins the North-west Company, and 
 proceeds to the Rocky Mountains — Meets a party, and re- 
 turns to the sea — Robbery of goods, and successful stratagem 
 to recover the property — Attack at night — Dog-eating — 
 Author and three men pursued by Indians — Narrow 
 escape 185 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Author proceeds to Oakinagan, and thence to the Flat-heads, 
 where he passes the winter — Cruel treatment of the Black- 
 feet prisoners by the Flat-heads — Horrible spectacle — Buf- 
 falo the cause of war between the two tribes — Women — 
 Government — Peace and war chiefs — Wolves — Anecdote 
 of a dog — Syrup of birch — Surgical and medical knowledge 
 of Flat-heads — Remarkable cure of rheumatism — Their ideas 
 of a future state; and curious tradition respecting the 
 beavers — Name of Flat-head a misnomer — A marriage. 209 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Effect of snow on the eyes — Description of a winter at Oakin- 
 agan — News from the sea — Capture of Astoria by the Ra- 
 
XX 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 coon sloop of war — Oft'er of GhinookH to cut oil' the BritiHli 
 — A part^ attacked; Mr. Stewart wounded; two Indiana 
 killed— Arrival of Mr. Hunt — Shipwreck of the Lark — 
 Massacre of Mr. Read and eight of his men — Extraordinary 
 escape of Dorrien's widow and children . 237 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Arrival of the Isaac Tod— Miss Jane Barnes, a white woman 
 — Murder of one of our men by Indians— Trial and execu- 
 tion of the murderers — Death of Mr. Donald M'Tavish 
 and five men ..... 258 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Sketch of the Indians about the mouth of the Columbia — Pro- 
 cess of flattening tho head — Thievish disposition — Treat- 
 ment of their slaves — Suggestions to the missionary socie- 
 ties — Dreadful ravages of the small-pox — Jack Ramsay — 
 Their ideas of religion — Curious superstition — Marriage 
 ceremonies — Anecdote — Aversion to ardent spirits — Go- 
 vernment — War — Arms and Armour — Canoes and houses 
 — System of cooking — Utensils — Gambling — Haiqtta — 
 Quack doctors — Mode of burial .... 274 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Voyage to the interior — Party attacked, and one man killed — 
 Arrive at Spokan House — Joy of the Indians at our return — 
 The chiefs speech — Sketch of Mr. M'Donald — Duel pre- 
 vented between him and a chief — Kettle Indians, their sur- 
 prise at seeing white men — Curious account of an herma- 
 phrodite chief — Death of Jacques Hoole • . 30(! 
 
 » 
 
 ( ■ 
 ( ' 
 
SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE 
 
 ON 
 
 THE BANKS OF 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Singularly luminous appearance of the ocean — The Equator — 
 Magellanic clouds — Falkland Islands — Storm, and loss of 
 two men — Cape Horn — Dreadful storm — Islands of Juan 
 Fernandez and Massafuero — ^Trade winds in the Pacific — 
 A shark — Arrival at Sandwich Islands. 
 
 On Thursday the 17th of October, 1811, we 
 sailed from New York, with a gentle breeze 
 from the northward, and in a few hours lost 
 sight of the high lands of " Never Sink." Our 
 cabin passengers were, Messrs. Clarke, Clapp, 
 Halsey, NicoUs, Seton, Ehninger, and self; with 
 Captain Sowles, and Messrs. Rhodes, Champe- 
 nois, and Dean, officers of the ship. 
 
 VOL. I. B 
 
ir 
 
 1 1 
 
 [ 
 
 V APPEARANCE OF THE OCEAK. 
 
 Nothing particular occurred until the night 
 of the 7 th of November, when we were gratified 
 with observing th? ocean assume that fiery ap- 
 pearance mentioned by several of our circum- 
 navigators; to account for which has not a 
 little perplexed the most erudite inquirers into 
 marine phenomena. During our passage through 
 these liquid flames we had what sailors term a 
 ** smacking breeze " of eight knots. The cap- 
 tain declared that he had never witnessed so 
 luminous an appearance of the sea ; and so great 
 was the light afforded by the waves, that we 
 were thereby enabled to peruse books of a mode- 
 rate sized print I 
 
 On the following day, the 8th, we made the 
 Cape de Verds, at which place it was the cap- 
 tain's intention to stop for a day or two ; but 
 the wind being favourable he relinquished the 
 idea, and kept under way. We had fine gales 
 and pleasant weather until the 17th, on which 
 day we crossed the Equator, in longitude 30" 
 wedt, with a light northerly breeze, which on 
 the following day subsided into a dead calm : 
 this calm continued eight days, during which 
 period we did not advance ten miles. 
 
 On the 26th a smart breeze sprang up, which 
 drove us on nobly at the rate of from seven to 
 
 t J 
 
THE EQUATOIl — MAGELLANIC CLot/PS. 
 
 ton knots an hour. The i^8th we spoke a Por- 
 tuguese brig bound from lliu Grande to Per- 
 nambuco. The captain and crew of this vessel 
 were all negroes, the lowest of whom was six 
 feet high. We inquired from the sable com- 
 mander what was his longitude ; but he could 
 not give us any information on the subject I 
 After setting this unfortunate navigator right 
 we pursued our course ; and the wind still con- 
 tinuing fresh, we were quickly emancipated from 
 the scorching Influence of a vertical sun. 
 
 On the 10th of December, in latitude 39°, we 
 spoke the American ship Manilla, Captain 
 M'Lean, on her return from a whaling voyage, 
 and bound to Nantucket, Rhode Island. The 
 captain came on board, and politely waited till 
 we had written a few letters, of which he 
 took charge. A few days after this we lost 
 sight of the celebrated Magellanic clouds, which 
 had been visible almost from the time we crossed 
 the Equator. That these nebulee should be so 
 immutable in their form and station, has been a 
 source of no trifling perplexity to our natural 
 philosophers. As so much ink has already been 
 consumed in speculations respecting these phe- 
 nomena, and such various and conflicting opi- 
 nions elicited from the most learned astronomers 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 FALKLAND ISLANDS. 
 
 
 of the last and present age, I conceive it would 
 be presumptuous in me to offer a single word on 
 the subject. These clouds are white, and in 
 shape nearly resemble an equilateral triangle, 
 rounded at each angular point. 
 
 On the 21st of December, at five a. m., land 
 was discovered on our weather bow. The cap- 
 tain pronounced it to be the coast of Patagonia ; 
 and acting on this opinion, we kept along-shore, 
 in order to pass between the Falkland Islands 
 and the mainland ; but, strange to tell I at noon, 
 when he obtained a meridian observation, he 
 discovered that what he previously conceived to 
 be the Patagonian coast was in reality a part of 
 the Falkland Islands. To account for this mis- 
 take, it is proper to mention, that during the 
 preceding ten days the haziness of the weather 
 precluded the possibility of our obtaining either 
 a solar or lunar observation ; we therefore were 
 compelled to sail entirely by dead reckoning. 
 To this may be added, the effect of a strong 
 westerly current : and had the obscure weather 
 continued but a day longer, the consequences 
 might have proved fatal. 
 
 As the wind was fair, and we had proceeded 
 so far, the captain abandoned his original inten- 
 tion, and determined to sail round the eastern 
 
FALKLAND ISLANDS. 
 
 ( 
 
 extremity of the islands, and from thence to 
 shape his course for Cape Horn. We coasted 
 along the shore until the S4th, with light west- 
 erly and south-westerly breezes. Albatrosses, 
 penguins, and pintado birds were very numerous 
 around the ship. We shot several, and took 
 others with a hook and bait. One albatross 
 which we caught in this manner received but 
 little injury. It had an enormously large bill, 
 measured eleven feet from wing to wing when 
 extended, and kept a fierce English bull-dog at 
 bay for half an hour. 
 
 Although the Falkland Islands occupy in the 
 southern hemisphere a similar degree of latitude 
 to that of Ireland in the northern, still they 
 possess none of the characteristic fertility of the 
 ** Emerald Isle." Of grass, properly so called, 
 there is none in those islands. In vegetable and 
 animal productions they are also deficient ; and 
 the climate, generally speaking, is cold, variable, 
 and stormy : yet for such a place the British 
 empire was on the point of being involved in a 
 war, the preparations for which cost the nation 
 some millions I * 
 
 * It may be remembered that our ejection from these ittlands 
 by Buccarelli, a Spanish officer, brought the celebrated Samuel 
 Johnson in collision with Junius. 
 

 6 
 
 A STORM, AND LOSS OF TWO MEN. 
 
 )l 
 
 On the ^4th we took leave of the islands 
 with a gentle breeze right aft, but this changed 
 ere we had cleared the Sea-lion rocks to a 
 violent head-gale. All the lighter sails were 
 instantly furled ; in the hurry of doing which, 
 the gaskets or small ropes which bound the 
 flying jib gave way, and two sailors were sent 
 out to adjust it. While they were in the act 
 of performing this hazardous duty a tremendous 
 wave struck the forepart of the ship, carried 
 away the jib-boom, and with it the two un- 
 fortunate men who were securing the sail. 
 The ship was immediately hoVe to, and every 
 piece of timber, empty barrel, or hen-coop 
 on deck was thrown over to afford the un- 
 fortunate men a chance of escape. Unhap- 
 pily all our efforts were unavailing j the 
 poor fellows remained in sight about ten mi- 
 nutes, when they disappeared amidst the raging 
 billows. When the accident occurred, two of 
 the ship's company jumped into the jolly-boat, 
 and with all the thoughtless good-nature of 
 sailors, were about cutting away the lashings to 
 go to the assistance of their ill-fated messmates, 
 when the captain observing them, ordered them 
 out of the boat, exclaiming, " D — n you, have 
 you a mind to go to hell also ?" 
 
STATEN LAND. 
 
 This was the most gloomy Christmas eve I 
 ever spent. The above melancholy accident had 
 thrown a cloud over every countenance ; and 
 when to this was added the darkness of the cabin, 
 (the dead-lights being all in,) with the loud roar- 
 ing of the storm, and the Alpine waves threat- 
 ening every instant to ingulph us, our situation 
 may be more easily imagined than described. 
 Home, with all its mild and social endearments 
 at this season of general festivity, involuntarily 
 obtruded itself on our recollections. The half 
 expressed wish of being once more on terra firma 
 was unconsciously communicated from one to 
 another. But when we looked upon the weather- 
 beaten face of our veteran captain, and observed 
 the careless, if not contented air of his officers 
 and crew ; when we felt that they were enduring 
 the "peltings of the pitiless storm** unmoved 
 and without a murmur ; and when we reflected 
 on the immense expanse of ocean through which 
 we had to plough our way, and how fruitless 
 would be the indulgence of unmanly apprehen- 
 sion, — " to the wind we gave our sighs,*' ascend- 
 ed to the deck, and tendered our feeble assist- 
 ance to the captain. 
 
 The gale continued with much violence until 
 the 29th ; when, at two p. m., we made Staten 
 
8 
 
 CAPE HORN. 
 
 
 Land. At tour p. m. we perceived the " snow- 
 topt" mountains of Terra del Fuego, rearing 
 their majestic heads above the clouds, and sur- 
 veying witli cold indiflference the conflict of the 
 contending oceans that on all sides surround 
 them. As we approached Cape Horn the wea- 
 ther moderated, and the captain ordered all the 
 lighter masts and yards again to be rigged. 
 
 January 1st, 1812, at two p.m., on this day, 
 we bade adieu to the Atlantic, and sailed round 
 the long' dreaded southern extremity of America, 
 with a gentle breeze from the N.N.W., at the 
 rate of one mile per hour, and under top- gallant 
 studding-sails; a circumstance I believe unpa- 
 ralleled in the history of circumnavigation. 
 
 Toward evening the wind died away, and 
 
 Not a breeze disturb'd the wide serene. 
 
 i\ 
 
 
 Our entrance into the great Pacific was marked 
 by none of those terrible concussions of the 
 " vasty deep,'* the frequency of which have given 
 such afearful celebrity to Cape Horn. It seemed 
 as if the two mighty oceans had ceased for a 
 period their dreadful warfare, and mingled their 
 waters in the blessed calm of peace. On our 
 right rose the wild inhospitable shores of Terra 
 del Fuego ■, on the left lay the low desert islands 
 
CAPE HORN. 
 
 9 
 
 of Diego Ramarez ; while all around myriads 
 of whales, porpoises, and other marine monsters, 
 emerging at intervals from the deep, and rolling 
 their huge bodies over the placid surface of the 
 surrounding element, agreeably diversified the 
 scene. 
 
 This calm was of short duration. On the fol- 
 lowing day the wind shifted once more ahead, 
 and drove us as far as 61** S. before we cleared 
 Cape Noire, the south-western point of Terra 
 del Fuego. During this period we had a suc- 
 cession of cold boisterous weather, and occa- 
 sionally came in collision with large masses of 
 floating ice, from which we however escaped 
 without injury. ' 
 
 It is unnecessary to mention to my geogra- 
 phical readers that the period at which we doubled 
 the cape is the summer season in the high south- 
 ern latitudes j and if such be its attractions in 
 the balmy season of the year, what a region must 
 it be on the arrival of 
 
 Barren Winter, with his nipping colds ! 
 
 We are informed by the early geographers, 
 that Terra del Fuego was so called from several 
 volcanoes which contrasted their vivid flames 
 with the surrounding icy wastes : and from the 
 
f 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 DREADFUL STORM. 
 
 same authority we learn that Patagonia, which 
 is on the opposite side of the Straits of Magellan, 
 was inhabited by a race of people of immense 
 stature. Modern travellers, however, have ob- 
 tained a more correct knowledge of that country, 
 and have reduced the wonderful altitude of the 
 supposed giants to the common standard of 
 humanity. Young travellers should not make 
 rash assertions, particularly if opposed to the re- 
 ceived opinions of the world. I cannot however 
 avoid saying, that it is my belief there is no 
 better foundation for the volcanoes than there 
 was for the accounts of the giants. For several 
 days that we were in sight of this supposed land 
 of fire, we did not observe the smallest appear- 
 ance of smoke ; and our captain, who had made 
 many voyages round Cape Horn, declared he 
 had never perceived the slightest volcanic ap- 
 pearance in its neighbourhood. 
 
 On the 12th of January the wind veered in our 
 favour, and enabled us to proceed with brisk 
 southerly breezes till the 19th, on which day, in 
 lat. 5i2°, long. 79° W., nearly abreast of the Straits 
 of Magellan, we encountered a most dreadful 
 gale from the eastward, which lasted eighteen 
 hours. Our ship was a stout strong-built vessel, 
 notwithstanding which she sustained considerable 
 
DREADFUL STORM. 
 
 11 
 
 damage. The bulwarks were completely washed 
 away; the head carried o£f; the mainmast and 
 bowsprit sprung; and the foresail, which wus 
 the only one set, was blown to a thousand 
 shivers. We shipped several heavy seas in the 
 cabin, and for some time all our trunks were 
 floating. The violence of the storm however 
 moderated on the ^Oth, and enabled us once 
 more to bring the vessel under control : had it 
 continued twelve hours longer, we should in- 
 evitably have been dashed to pieces on the iron- 
 bound shores of Terra del Fuego; for, at the 
 period the hurricane broke, we were not twenty- 
 five leagues from shore ; and owing to the un- 
 manageable state of the vessel, the wind was 
 driving us with unopposed force in that direc- 
 tion. The billows made sad havock among the 
 remainder of our live stock. The sheep, poultry, 
 and most of our hogs, were carried away ; and a 
 few only of the last, fortunately for us, escaped 
 drowning, to die by the hands of the butcher. 
 
 On the 27 th a young man named Henry Wil- 
 lets, who had been engaged as a hunter in the 
 Company's service, died of the black scurvy, a 
 disease which it is supposed he had contracted 
 previous to his embarkation, as no other person 
 on board had any scorbutic affection. As many 
 
\T\ 
 
 12 
 
 JUAN FERNANDEZ. 
 
 U II. 
 
 of my readers may not be acquainted with the 
 melancholy ceremony of consigning the body of a 
 fellow being to the deep, I shall mention it. The 
 deceased was enveloped in his blankets, in which 
 two large pieces of lead were sewed, and placed 
 immediately under his feet. The body was then 
 laid on a plank, one end of which rested on the 
 railing, and the other was supported by his com- 
 rades, the crew and passengers forming a circle 
 about it. The beautiful and sublime burial ser- 
 vice of the Church of England was then read in 
 an audible and impressive manner by Mr. Nicolls, 
 who officiated as chaplain, after which the plank 
 was raised, the body with the feet downwards 
 slided gently into the ocean, and in a moment 
 we lost sight of it for ever. 
 
 On the 4th of February, at two p. m., we made 
 the island of Juan Fernandez ; and at six, that 
 of Massafuero, at the latter of which the captain 
 determined to touch for a supply of wood and 
 water. It was on the former island in the begin- 
 ning of the eighteenth century, that Alexander 
 Selkirk, a Scotchman, resided for several years, 
 and from whose rude undigested story the in- 
 genious De Foe, by adding the fictitious Friday, 
 &c. has given to the world the delightful ro- 
 mance of Robinson Crusoe. 
 
MASSAFUERO. 
 
 13 
 
 On the morning of the 5th we stood in to 
 about five miles off shore, when the ship was 
 hove to ; and at six o'clock we proceeded for the 
 island in the pinnace and jolly-boat, with twenty- 
 four empty water-casks. Our party, including 
 mates, passengers, and sailors, amounted to 
 twenty-three. A heavy surf broke along the 
 beach, and after searching in vain for a fair 
 opening to disembark, we were reduced to the 
 disagreeable necessity of throwing ourselves 
 through the surf, and succeeded in accomplishing 
 a landing at the imminent risk of our lives. 
 After making a cheering fire to dry our clothes, 
 we divided into two parties, for the purpose of 
 exploring the island. Messrs. Clarke, Clapp, 
 and Seton, formed one ; and Messrs. Nicolls, 
 Halsey, and myself, the other ; Messsrs. Rhodes, 
 Dean, and Ehninger, remained in the boats, and 
 at the landing-place, to superintend the watering 
 and fishing business. 
 
 The island appears to be one vast rock split by 
 some convulsion of nature into five or six parts. 
 It was through one of these chasms that our 
 party determined to proceed ; and accoutred 
 each with a fowling-piece, horn, and pouch, we 
 set forward in quest of adventures. The breadth 
 of the aperture at its entrance did not exceed 
 
14 
 
 MASSAFUERO. 
 
 fifty feet, and it became narrower as we ad- 
 vanced : through the bottom meandered a clear 
 stream of fine water, from which the boats M^ere 
 supplied, and which proved of great service to us 
 in the course of our excursion. We had not 
 proceeded more than half a mile, when we en- 
 countered so many difficulties in climbing over 
 steep rocks, passing ponds, waterfalls, &c., that 
 we were compelled to leave our guns behind us. 
 Thus disembarrassed, we continued our course 
 for upwards of two miles up a steep ascent, fol- 
 lowing the different windings of the stream, 
 which, at intervals, tumbling over large rocks, 
 formed cascades which greatly impeded our 
 progress. 
 
 In proportion as we advanced the daylight 
 seemed to recede, and for some time we were 
 involved in an almost gloomy darkness, on ac- 
 count of the mountain tops on each side nearly 
 forming a junction. We now regretted the want 
 of our guns, as we observed a great number of 
 goats on the surrounding precipices ; and the 
 dead bodies of several, in a more or less decayed 
 state, which we supposed must have fallen in 
 bounding from cliff to cliff, and ascending the 
 slippery and almost perpendicular hills among 
 which they vegetate. A little farther on, on 
 
 i 
 
MASSAFUERO. 
 
 15 
 
 turning the point of a projecting rock, we were 
 agreeably relieved by the bright rays of the sun, 
 which shone with great splendour on the chaotic 
 mass of rocks by which we were encompassed. 
 Reanimated by the presence of this cheering 
 object, we redoubled our pace, and were al- 
 ready congratulating ourselves with being near 
 the summit of the mountain, (which from the 
 height we had ascended must have been the 
 case,) when our progress was arrested by a 
 large pond, upwards of twenty feet deep ; and 
 from the steepness of the rocks on each side, 
 it was impossible to pass it except by swim- 
 ming. We therefore determined to return be- 
 fore night overtook us in such a dreary place ; 
 and after encountering fifty hair-breadth escapes, 
 reached the watering place about seven o'clock, 
 hungry as wolves, and almost fatigued to death. 
 Here we found the other party, who had arrived 
 a short time before us. Messrs. Clarke and Clapp 
 shot two fat goats ; and Mr. Dean, who with 
 three men remained in the boats, caught between 
 three and four hundred excellent fish, out of which 
 we succeeded in making an excellent supper. 
 
 Sixteen of the casks being now filled, Mr. 
 Rhodes judged it expedient to proceed with them 
 to the ship, and to return the following day for 
 
16 
 
 MASSAFUERO. 
 
 the remainder. Ten were made fast to the pin- 
 nace, and six to the jolly boat, and at one o'clock, 
 A.M., on the morning of the 6th, after some 
 hours' hard rowing, we reached the ship amidst 
 a storm of thunder, lightning, and rain. During 
 that day it blew too fresh to permit the boats to 
 return, and we kept standing off and on till the 
 7th, when the breeze moderated, and enabled us 
 to bring off the remaining casks. 
 
 Massafuero rises abruptly from the sea, and 
 has but a narrow stripe of beach. It was formerly 
 well stocked with seals, but these animals have 
 been nearly destroyed by American whalers. 
 The goats are numerous, but too rancid to be 
 used for food, except in cases of necessity. The 
 island also appears to be devoid of wood. The 
 carpenter who went on shore for the purpose of 
 procuring some that could be used in building a 
 boat, found only a few pieces with a close grain, 
 very hard, and in colour resembling box: it was 
 fit only for knees. Mr. Clapp's party in their 
 tour, which was along the beach, round the 
 western extremity of the island, saw none of 
 this necessary article ; and in the cleft of the 
 mountain through which our party proceeded, 
 we observed only a few trees of the kind found 
 by the carpenter, growing among inaccessible 
 
 
MASSAFrrUO. 
 
 17 
 
 rocks. Tlu» most valuable production of Mus- 
 safuero is uiid mbtedly its fish, of which then; in 
 a great variety. No one on board was able to 
 appropriate names to all we took. The suialleHt 
 is a species of whiting-, and very delicate when 
 fried. The largest bears a strong resemblance 
 to cod, and by some of our people was deemed 
 superior. There are also several kinds of bass, 
 herrings, crabs, &c. We caught a few conger 
 eels ; the most disgusting I ever saw : but, as a 
 counterbalance, the Massafuero lobster, for large- 
 ness of size, beautiful variety of colours, and de- 
 liciousness of taste, is, I believe, unrivalled. 
 
 With the exception of the fish, there is nothing 
 to induce a vessel to touch at this place, while 
 the fruitful island of Juan Fernandez is so near, 
 but a desire, as was our case, of concealing the 
 object of its voyage from the inquisitive and 
 jealous eye of the Spanish authorities, who were 
 stationed at the latter island.* 
 
 
 * While Spain held possession of South America, every 
 vessel touching at Juan Fernandez was subjected to a rigor- 
 ous search ; and from tlie number of our guns, joined to the 
 great quantities of warlike stores on board, the captain did 
 not deem it prudent to run the risk of an inquisitorial inspec- 
 tion. T should hope the officers of the Chilian republic sta- 
 tioned here have adopted a more liberal policy. 
 
 VOL. 1. C 
 
18 
 
 TRADE WINDS. 
 
 A few days after leaving Massafuero we got 
 into the trade winds, which wafted us on at an 
 even steady rate, varying from four to seven 
 knots an hour. A curious incident occurred on 
 Sunday the 28rd of February, early on the morn- 
 ing of which day a hog had been killed ; a prac- 
 tice which had been generally observed every 
 sabbath morning during the voyage. 
 
 After breakfast, the weather being calm, a 
 number of the crew and passengers amused 
 themselves by bathing around the vessel. Some 
 of them had returned on board, when a sailor on 
 the forecastle discovered a large shark gliding 
 slowly and cautiously under the starboard bow. 
 With great presence of mind, he instantly seized 
 a small rope called a clew-line, and with charac- 
 teristic dispatch made a running knot, which he 
 silently lowered into the water : the monster un- 
 warily passed the head and upper fin through the 
 noose ; on observing which, the sailor jerked the 
 rope round the cat-head, and, with the assistance 
 of some of his messmates, succeeded in hauling it 
 on deck. In the mean time, those who were stil! 
 sporting in the water were almost paralysed on 
 hearing the cry of " a shark I a shark I" and not 
 
 knowing on which side of them lay the dreaded 
 danger, some made for the ship, and others swam 
 
 h V 
 
 f 
 
SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 19 
 
 from it; each momentarily expecting" to come in 
 contact with 
 
 His jaws horrific, arni'd with threefold fate, 
 when their fears were dissipated by announcing 
 to them the welcome intelligence of his caption. 
 On dissecting him, the entire entrails of the hog 
 which had been killed in the morning were 
 found in his belly I so that he must have been 
 alongside during the whole of the forenoon, and 
 was doubtless intimidated by the number of the 
 swimmers, from attacking any of them indivi- 
 dually. 
 
 On the 4th of March we crossed the Equator, 
 for the second time this voyage, with a brisk 
 south-easterly breeze ; and on the 25th, at day- 
 break, we made the island of Owhyee, the largest 
 in the group of the Sandwich Islands. It was 
 the captain's original intention to stop at this 
 place for his supplies ; but on approaching Ka- 
 rakakooa bay we were informed by some natives, 
 who came off in canoes, that Tamaahmaah, the 
 king, then resided in Whoahoo. As we were 
 anxious, for several reasons, to have an interview 
 with his majesty, the captain relinquished the 
 idea of stopping here, and stood about for the 
 latter island. 
 
 As we sailed along Owhyee, with a fine east- 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 "I ':\- 
 
 erly breeze, nature and art displayed to our view 
 one of the finest prospects I ever beheld. The 
 snow-clad summit of the gigantic Mouna Roah, 
 towering into the clouds, with its rocky and 
 dreary sides, presented a sublime coup d'wil, and 
 formed a powerful contrast to its cultivated base, 
 and the beautiful plantations interspersed along 
 the shore. Eternal winter reigned above, while 
 all beneath flourished in the luxuriance of per- 
 petual summer. The death, too, of the ill-fated 
 and memorable Cook will attach a melancholy 
 celebrity to this island ; as it was here that that 
 great navigator was sacrificed in a temporary 
 ebullition of savage fury, and closed a brilliant 
 career of services, which reflect honour on his 
 country, and will perpetuate his name to the 
 latest posterity. 
 
 As the wind continued fresh, we soon cleared 
 Owhyee, and passed in succession the islands of 
 Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi, and in the evening 
 came in sight of Whoahoo. While we sailed 
 along this interesting group of islands several 
 Indians boarded us, from whom we purchased a 
 few hogs, some melons, plantains, &c. It being 
 too late to attempt anchoring this evening, we 
 stood off" and on during the night. 
 
 ,! 
 
WHOAHOO. 
 
 21 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Wlioalioo — Visit from a chief — Nocturnal excursion — King 
 and queens — Invasion of the ship — White men — Gardens 
 — Foot race, and summary justice — Throwing the spear — 
 Royal residence, and body guard — Mourning for a chief's 
 wife — Billy Pitt, George Washington, &c. 
 
 On Thursday the 26th of March, at noon, we 
 came to anchor outside of the bar in Whytetee 
 bay, about two miles from shore, and nearly 
 abreast of a village from which the bay is named. 
 A short time after anchoring we were visited 
 by an eree or chief, named Tiama, in a double 
 canoe, who was sent by the king to learn from 
 whence the ship came, whither bound, &c. 
 After obtaining the ne:;essary information, and 
 taking a glass of wine, he returned, and was ac- 
 companied by the captain, who went on shore in 
 order to acquaint his majesty with the particular 
 object he had in touching here. Tiama informed 
 us that a taboo* was then in force, which ac- 
 counted for our not being visited by any of the 
 natives. At ten o'clock the captain came back 
 with Tiama. He had met with a favourable re- 
 * See Cook, Vancouver, &c. 
 
 -— "fJ 
 
NOCTURNAL EXCURSION. 
 
 ception from Tamaahmaah, who promised to ex- 
 pedite his departure as soon as possible. 
 
 Mr. Nicolls observing- the chief preparing to 
 return, and being* impatient to go on shore, pro- 
 posed that the passengers should accompany 
 him : this was opposed by others ; upon which 
 it was put to the vote, when four appearing in 
 its favour, the motion was of course carried. 
 The ayes were Messrs. Nicolls, Clapp, Halsey, 
 and myself: the minority chose to remain on 
 board. The weather was calm, and we took 
 with us a couple of flutes. Our canoe went 
 on briskly until we passed the channel of the 
 bar, when a most delightful nocturnal prospect 
 opened on us. The serenity of the sky, and 
 the brightness of the moon enabled us to dis- 
 cern objects distinctly on shore. The village 
 of Whytetee, situated in an open grove of 
 cocoa-nut trees, with the hills rising gently in 
 the rear, presented a charming perspective 
 by moonlight, while the solemn stillness of the 
 night, interrupted at intervals by the hoarse 
 murmurs of the surges, as they broke over the 
 bar, rendered the scene in the highest degree 
 romantic. On landing we found the beach co- 
 vered with a concourse of natives, whom the 
 sound of our flutes had attracted thither : they 
 
 
 I 
 
NOCTURNAL EXCURSION. 
 
 23 
 
 
 came pressing on us in such crowds, that were it 
 not for the chief's authority, we should have had 
 considerable difficulty in forcing a passage through 
 them. About midnight we reached the village, 
 and Tiama conducted us to his house, where we 
 experienced a hospitable reception from his fa« 
 mily, which consisted of three strapping wives, 
 two handsome daughters, and a brother, about 
 twenty years of age. A young pig lost its life 
 by our arrival, on which, with some cocoa-nuts 
 and bananas, we made an excellent supper. 
 Tiama*s brother was our major domo: he attached 
 himself particularly to NicoUs, who called him 
 Tom ; and as a compensation for his trouble and 
 obliging attention to us, made him a present 
 of his stockings, which, unfortunately for poor 
 Tom, were silk ones. He was so proud of the 
 gift, that he immediately put them over his olive- 
 coloured calves, and without any shoes, he con- 
 tinued walking and working about the house : 
 this was usage to which silk stockings were not 
 accustomed, and the consequence was that before 
 morning their soles had vanished. Our repast 
 being finished, the chief ordered a bevy of young 
 females, who since our arrival had been hovering 
 about the house, to entertain us with one of their 
 native airs : they at once complied, and having 
 
m 
 
 iii 
 
 NOCTURNAL EXCURSION. 
 
 formed themselves into a semicircle, sang* in 
 ruthor an liarmonious manner : their languishing* 
 C)'e8, and significant pauses, evidently showed, 
 without the aid of an interpreter, that the sub- 
 ject was amatory. This over, Tom conducted 
 lis to a neat lodge which Tiama had allotted for 
 our use, and in which we enjoyed the remainder 
 of the night in umlisturbed repose on soft beds 
 of island cloth. 
 
 On the following morning we arose early, and 
 tot)k a refreshing walk on the sea-shore, after 
 which we returned to the ship in T.cima's canoe. 
 Our appearance was a subject of merriment to 
 those on board. One bare-legged, another with- 
 out his cravat, the coat of a third closely but- 
 toned up to conceal the absence of his vest j all 
 in fact lighter than when we set out ; but no- 
 thing was purloined. We had been hospitably 
 entertained by the chieftain and his family ; gra- 
 titude demanded a return, and as we had omitted 
 to furnish ourselves with trinkets, we could only 
 supply the deficiency by parting with a portion 
 of our least useful clothing. 
 
 As the taboo had ceased to operate this day, 
 >ve found the vessel crowded with natives barter- 
 ing their produce with our people. At noon we 
 wore honoured by a visit from their majesties, 
 
KING AND QUEENS. 
 
 25 
 
 ■| 
 
 the king, and four queens, attended by Krinuvcoo, 
 the prime minister, and several of the principal 
 chiefs, tog-ether with Messrs. Maninna and Hair- 
 bottle, two white men ; the former a Spaniard, 
 who held the office of chief interpreter to the 
 king-, and the latter an Englishman, and luuid 
 pilot of his majesty's fleet. 
 
 The king and queens came in a large double 
 canoe, which was formed by lashing two canot'S 
 together, separated by bars of two and a half feet 
 in length from each other. Each canoe had four- 
 teen chosen men. On the bars was raised a kind 
 of seat on which the queens reposed, and above 
 all was placed an arm-chest well stored with 
 muskets, on which the king 
 
 Above the rest 
 
 In sliape and gesture proudly eniinent 
 
 Sat like — a tailor. 
 
 Immediately before his majesty was a native who 
 carried a handsome silver-hilted hanger, which 
 was presented to him by the late emperor of 
 Russia, and which on state occasions he had 
 alwaya carried before him, in imitation m wo 
 supposed of European sword-bearers. Behind 
 the royal personage sat another native who car- 
 ried a large and highly-polished bowl of darl 
 
 IS- 
 
26 
 
 KINO AND QUEENS. 
 
 brown wood, into which his majesty ever and 
 anon ejected all his superabundant saliva. 
 
 After he had arrived on the deck, Tamaah- 
 maah shook hands in the most condescending 
 manner with every one he met between the cabin 
 and the gang-way, exclaiming to each person, 
 " Aroah, Aroah nuee" (I love you, I love you 
 much.) There was a degree of negligent sim- 
 plicity about his dress, which strongly character- 
 ised the royal philosopher. His head was crown- 
 ed with an old woollen hat; the coat was formed 
 of coarse blue cloth in the antique shape, with 
 large metal buttons ; the waistcoat, of brown 
 velvet, which in its youthful days had been 
 black : a pair of short, tight, and well-worn 
 velveteen pantaloons displayed to great advan- 
 tage coarse worsted stockings and thick-soled 
 shoes, all admirably adapted for the tropics j 
 while his shirt and cravat, which had formerly 
 been white, seemed to have had a serious mis- 
 understanding with their washerwoman. Such, 
 gentle reader, was the costume of Tamaahmaah 
 the First, king of the Sandwich Islands, here- 
 ditary prince of Owhyee, and protector of a 
 confederation of escaped convicts from New 
 South Wales I"* 
 
 *• Tainaahmauh was hereditary king of Owhyse only ; he 
 
 ■ 
 
KINO AND QUEENS. 
 
 27 
 
 The royal party remained on board to dine. 
 The king only sat at table, and was placed at 
 the right hand of the captain, with the attendant 
 who carried his saliva reservoir behind him. 
 He ate voraciously, and in a very commendable 
 manner washed down the solids with a fair 
 quantum of Madeira, to the virtues of which he 
 appeared by no means to be a stranger. On 
 filling the first glass he drank our healths indivi- 
 dually ; alter which he plied away nobly, and 
 apparently unconscious of the presence of any of 
 the company. He did not touch the port, but 
 finished between two and three decanters of the 
 Madeira. As the ladies are prohibited from 
 eating with the men, we were of course deprived 
 of the pleasure of their society at our repast j 
 but after we had quitted the table they were 
 graciously permitted to occupy our seats. Their 
 dinner had been dressed on shore by their own 
 cooks, and was brought by them on board ; it 
 consisted of small raw fish, roasted dogs, and a 
 white mixture colled pooah, of the consistence of 
 flummery : this last they take by dipping the 
 two forefingers of the right hand into the dish 
 
 subsequently conquered all the other islands. A number of 
 convicts are at Whoahoo, who escaped from Botany Bay by 
 means of American vessels, and who reside here in security. 
 
 (/ 
 
88 
 
 KING AND QUEENS. 
 
 which contains the pooaht and after tiirning- 
 them round in the mixture until they are covered 
 with three or four coats, they raise the hand, 
 and giving the fingers a dexterous twist, to shake 
 off the fag-ends, bring them forward rapidly to 
 the mouth, which is ready open for their recep- 
 tion, and by a strong labial compression, they 
 are quickly cleared of their precious burden I 
 But in plain, unadorned simplicity of dress, they 
 far exceeded their royal consort. It merely 
 consisted of a long piece of their country cloth 
 wrapped in several folds round the waist, and 
 reaching only to the knees, leaving the breasts 
 and legs exposed to the criticisms of amateurs in 
 female beauty ; to this they occasionally add a 
 scarf of the same material, which is negligently 
 thrown over the shoulders, and falls behind. 
 They are very corpulent : the favourite mea- 
 sured nearly nine feet in circumference round 
 tae waist j and the others were not much in- 
 ferior in size. We may say of the royal taste, 
 that 
 
 They were clioseu as we choose old plate, 
 Not tor their beauty, but their weight. 
 
 Still they po£,sess mild engaging countenances, 
 with that " soft sleepiness of the eye" by which 
 
 
KINO AND QUEENS. 
 
 29 
 
 i 
 
 Goldsmith distinguishes the beauties of Cash- 
 mere. Their conduct is under strict surveillance. 
 Mr. Hairbottle informed us, that a few days 
 previous to our arrival an intrigue had been 
 discovered between the favourite queen and one 
 of the king's body guard. As their guilt ad- 
 mitted of no doubt, the unfortunate paramour 
 was strangled on the same night ; but as Ta- 
 maahmaah still cherished a lingering affection 
 for his frail favourite, he pardoned her, with 
 the short but pithy expression, " If you do it 
 
 again ." 
 
 Dtc*ing the afternoon the king employed him- 
 self in taking the dimensions of the ship, exa- 
 mining the cabins, stpte-rooms, &c. Scarcely an 
 object escaped the royal scrutiny : observing Mr. 
 Seton writing, he approached him, and began 
 to examine the various little nic-nacs with 
 which the desk was furnished. Seton showed 
 him a handsome penknife of curious workman- 
 ship, containing a number of blades, not with an 
 intention of bestowing it : with this he appeared 
 particularly pleased, and putting it into one of 
 the pockets of his capacious vest, said, *• Mytye, 
 nue nue mytie," (good, very good,) and walked 
 away. It was in vain for Seton to expostulate j 
 his majesty did not understand English, and all 
 
30 
 
 INV/\SION OF THE SHIP. 
 
 entreaties to induce him to return the penknife 
 were ineffectual. On the following- day, how- 
 ever, a chief brought Seton a handsome pre- 
 sent from the king, of mats, cloth, and other 
 native productions, with two hundred fine cocoa- 
 nuts. 
 
 In the course of the evening the queens played 
 draughts with some of our most scientific ama- 
 teurs, whom they beat hollow ; and such was 
 the skill evinced by them in the game, that not 
 one of our best players succeeded in making a 
 king. 
 
 Late in the evening our illustrious guests took 
 their departure, accompanied by all their at- 
 tendants ; but they had scarcely embarked in 
 their canoes when the ship was boarded on all 
 sides by numbers of women, who had come off 
 in small canoes paddled by men or elderly fe- 
 males, and who, after leaving their precious 
 cargo on deck, returned quickly to th<} island, 
 lest the captain should refuse his sanction to their 
 remaining in the vessel. They crowded in such 
 numbers about the crew as to obstruct the per- 
 formance of their duty, and the captain threat- 
 ened to send them all on shore in the ship's 
 boats if they did not behave themselves with 
 more propriety. This had the desired efl'ect. 
 
 I 
 
WIIITK MEN. 
 
 81 
 
 and while they remained on board they gave no 
 farther cause fur complaint. 
 
 On the following morning, the 28th, wo 
 weighed anchor, and worked the ship a few miles 
 higher up, exactly opposite the village of Ho- 
 naroora, where tlie king resided. We spent the 
 day on shore, at the house of a Mr. Holmes, a 
 white man, and a native of the United States, 
 by whom we were sumptuously entertained. He 
 had been settled here since the year 1793, and at 
 the period I speak of was, next to the king, the 
 greatest chief on the island. He had one hun- 
 dred and eighty servants, or under-tenants, 
 whom he called slaves, and who occupied small 
 huts in the immediate vicinity of his house. He 
 had also extensive plantations on Whoahoo, and 
 on the island of Morotoi, from whence he derived 
 a considerable income. He was married to a 
 native wife, by whom he had several children. 
 The eldest was a most interesting girl, aged about 
 fifteen years, with a peculiarly soft and expres- 
 sive countenance. Nature, in her freaks, had 
 bestowed upon this island beauty an extraordi- 
 nary profusion of hair, in which the raven tresses 
 of the mother were strangely intermingled with 
 the flaxen locks of the father. She spoke tolera- 
 bly good English, and always sat near him. He 
 
32 
 
 WHITE MEN. 
 
 appeared to watch her conduct with all the 
 parental solicitude of a man who, from long ex- 
 perience, well knew the danger to which she 
 was exposed from the general demoralization of 
 manners that prevailed about her. Mr. Holmes 
 is greatly respected by the natives, by whom he 
 is entitled Eree Homo, or the Chief Holmes. 
 
 As we met here several other respectable white 
 men, I shall mention their names ; and, first, Mr. 
 Maninna. This gentleman had been a Spanish 
 officer, and in consequence of having while sta- 
 tioned at Mexico killed a superior officer in a 
 quarrel, he fled to Californio, from whence he 
 escaped to the Sandwich islands, where, having 
 acquired the language with wonderful facility, he 
 was appointed to the office of chief interpreter. 
 He was a man of general information, spoke 
 French and English fluently, and from his easy 
 manners, and insinuating address, shortly becamo 
 a general favourite. He had built a handsome 
 stone house, the only one on the island, in which 
 he resided with his wife, who was the daughter 
 of a chief: her sister lived also in the same 
 house ; and the busy tongue of scandal, which 
 even here has found an entrance, did not hesi- 
 tate to say that the two sisters equally partici- 
 pated in his affections. His drawing-room was 
 
WHITE MEN. 
 
 33 
 
 decorated with a number of Chinese paintings, 
 which he obtained from Canton, of the cruci- 
 fixion, the Madonna, different saints, &c. ; but 
 on removing" a sliding pannel from the opposite 
 side, subjects of a far different nature were repre- 
 sented ! 
 
 Mr. Davis, the king's gardener, was a Welsh- 
 man, and at this period had been settled on the 
 island twelve years. He had also considerable 
 plantations, and had a native wife, who was a 
 most incontinent jade. He had just returned 
 from a distant part of the island, whither he had 
 been in pursuit of his faithless cara sposa, who 
 had eloped a few days before with one of her 
 native beaux. Poor Davis felt rather sore on 
 being bantered by old Holmes on this affair. 
 " Tam the strap," said he, " I cot her snug 
 enough to be sure with her sweetheart ; but I 
 think she*ll remember the pasting I gave her 
 all the tays of her life." We were informed 
 he might have easily parted from her, and pro- 
 cured a more suitable match, but he was unfor- 
 tunately too much attached to her to think of 
 taking another. 
 
 Mr. Hairbottle, the chief pilot, is a native of 
 Berwick, and was formerly boatswain of an Eng- 
 lish merchant ship. He had resided upwards of 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 WHITE MEN. 
 
 fourteen years on the different islands, and had 
 been married to a native wife, who was dead for 
 some years. He was a quiet, unassuming old 
 man, whose principal enjoyments consisted in a 
 glass of rum grog and a pipe of tobacco. 
 
 Mr. Wadsworth, an American. This gentle- 
 man had been chief mate of a ship which had 
 touched here about six years before. Having 
 quarrelled with his captain, they separated, and 
 he took up his residence in the island. The 
 king, who gave particular encouragement to 
 w^hite men of education to settle here, imme- 
 diately presented Wadsworth with a belle bru- 
 nette for a wife, together with a house and some 
 hogs. 
 
 Here we also found a gentleman from New 
 York, under the assumed name of Cook ; but 
 who was recognized by Mr. Nicolls as a mem- 
 ber of a highly respectable family in that city, 
 
 named S s. He had, like Wadsworth, been 
 
 also chief officer of an American East Indiaman, 
 which had touched here about three months pre- 
 vious to our arrival ; and in consequence of a 
 misunderstanding with the captain, he left the 
 ship, and took up his abode with Mr. Holmes. 
 On hearing of this circumstance, Tamaahmaah, 
 as an encouragement to his settling permanently 
 
 ► j 
 
WHITE MEN. 
 
 35 
 
 on the island, gave him the daughter of a prin- 
 cipal chief for a wife, some land, and a number 
 
 of hogs. S s, however, did not appear to 
 
 relish his situation : he had been too long ac- 
 customed to the refinements of civilization, at 
 once to adapt himself to Indian habits, and re- 
 ceived with apathy the fond caresses of his olive- 
 coloured spouse. He expressed a desire to re- 
 turn in our ship, but the captain's arrangements 
 could not permit it. 
 
 While on this subject I may as well mention 
 
 M t;ie example of Wads worth and S s 
 
 St ...Avid to be contagious; for a few days after 
 our arrival, Mr. Dean, our third officer, had a 
 serious altercation with the captain, which ended 
 in his quitting the ship ; and on its coming to 
 the king's knowledge, he sent for him, and told 
 him if he would remain, and take charge of his 
 fleet, he would give him a house and lands, 
 plenty of hogs, and a beautiful daughter of a 
 chief for a wife. Dean told him he had not yet 
 made up his mind on the subject, and requested 
 time to consider the ofier. The king did not 
 object, and the interview ended. I believe how- 
 ever that Dean subsequently quitted the island, 
 and returned to New York. 
 
 Mr. Holmes gave us a plentiful dinner of roast 
 
 D 2 
 
in 
 
 H' 
 
 36 
 
 WHITE MEN. 
 
 pork, roast dog, fowl, ham, fish, wine, and rum, 
 with a profusion of excellent tropical fruit. A 
 number of native servants attended at table, each 
 holding a napkin : they performed their duty in 
 a very expert manner, and appeared to be well 
 acquainted with all the domestic economy of the 
 table. Their livery was quite uniform, and con- 
 sisted merely of a cincture of country cloth round 
 the waist, from which a narrow piece of the 
 same stuff passed between the legs, and was fast- 
 ened to the belt, leaving the remainder of the 
 body totally uncovered I Our noble commander 
 was vice-president, and undertook to carve the 
 dog; which duty he performed in a manner 
 quite unique. He was the only one of our party 
 who partook of it. The idea of eating so faith- 
 ful an animal without even the plea of necessity, 
 effectually prevented any of us joining in this 
 part of the feast ; although, to do the meat jus- 
 tice, it really looked very well when roasted. 
 The islanders esteem it the greatest luxury they 
 possess ; and no one under the dignity of an eree 
 of the first class is permitted to partake of this 
 delicious food. However singular their taste 
 may be regarded in this respect by modern civi- 
 lization, my classical readers may recollect that 
 the ancients reckoned dogs excellent eating, par- 
 
 :J 
 
WHITE MEN. 
 
 37 
 
 ticularly when young and fat ; and we have the 
 authority of Hippocrates for saying that their 
 flesh ^8 equal to pork or mutton : he also adds, 
 that the flesh of a grown dog is both whole- 
 some and strengthening and that of puppies re- 
 laxing. The Romans, too, highly admired these 
 animals as an article of food, and thought them a 
 supper in which the gods themselves would have 
 delighted I 
 
 Independently of the white men whose names 
 I have mentioned, there were about fourteen 
 others, belonging to all nations, the majority of 
 whom were convicts who had effected their es- 
 cape from Botany Bay, and were held in no 
 estimation by the natives. They are supremely 
 indolent, and rum and women seemed to con- 
 stitute their only enjoyment. 
 
 On the 29th we made an excursion into the 
 interior with Davis. His gardens were exten- 
 sive, and pleasantly situated at the foot of the 
 hills, between four and five miles from Hona- 
 roora. They were laid out with taste, and kept 
 in exqellent order. Exclusive of the indigenous 
 productions of the countiy, with which they were 
 plentifully stocked, he planted a few years before 
 some Irish potatoes, and the crop more than 
 equalled his expectations. We also observed 
 
' 
 
 38 
 
 KINO S GARDENS. 
 
 some prime plantations of sugar cane. A few 
 of those we measured had fourteen feet eatable, 
 and were one foot in circumference, which, I am 
 informed, far exceeds the best Jamaica canes. 
 The climate of the Sandwich islands is, however, 
 more propitious to the growth of the cane than 
 that of the West Indies, at which latter place it 
 has, besides, many enemies to encounter which 
 are strangers to the islands in the Pacific ; such 
 RS monkies, ants, bugs, the blast, &c., one or 
 other of which often destroys the fairest hopes of 
 the planter. The islanders distil an inferior 
 spirit from it, which the resident white people 
 have digi.ified by the title of " country rum,** 
 It is weak, and has a smoky, insipid taste, and 
 does not produce intoxication except taken in 
 large quantities. 
 
 On our way back we visited the king's gardens, 
 which were contiguous to Davis's. They were 
 much more extensive than his, although far in- 
 ferior in neatness, ■ and contained nothing parti- 
 cularly deserving notice. Davis was the only 
 white man who superintended his own planta- 
 tions : the others were left to the management of 
 their servants, and were seldom visited by the 
 proprietors ; and as he was a good practical 
 agriculturist, his gardens were superior to any 
 
 
 i 1 
 
 ,1 
 
itlNo's OAUDENS. 
 
 m 
 
 »> 
 
 in 
 
 ■J 
 
 I 
 
 we saw on the island. In the cuursu uf thU tuur 
 we did not observe a spot that could jo turned 
 to advantage left unimproved. The country all 
 around the bay exhibits the highest state of cuU 
 tivation, and presents at one view a continued 
 range of picturesque plantations, intersected by 
 small canals, and varied by groves of cocuiunut 
 trees ; the whole bounded on the back ground by 
 gently sloping hil» ., and in the front by the 
 ocean. We returned late in the evening, highly 
 delighted with our day's excursion, and sat down 
 to an excellent dinner prepared for us by the 
 worthy Cambrian, in whose hospitable niansiou 
 we spent the night. 
 
 On the 30th we were present at a grand pe- 
 destrian racing match, between Krikapoorue, the 
 king's nephew, and an American black named 
 Anderson, who was his armourer : the latter 
 won, after a well contested struggle. The race- 
 course presented a novel and striking appear- 
 ance. At the upper end was erected a covered 
 platform abc ut twenty feet from the ground, on 
 which the king sat cross-legged, and without any 
 cov(}riiig whatever, save the waistband com- 
 monly worn by the natives : his guards armed 
 with muskets paraded around the platform ; 
 while on each side, and close to the guards, were 
 
I 
 
 to 
 
 FOOT RACES. 
 
 11 
 
 assembled an immense concourse of natives of all 
 classes, mingled together without any regard to 
 rank, age, or sex. The two favourite queens 
 were richly dressed : one wore a light-blue satin 
 gown, trimmed with broad gold lace ; the other 
 had on a cream-coloured riding-habit of cassi- 
 raere, ornamented with silver lace, and a pro- 
 fusion of sugar-loaf buttons, &c. These dresses 
 were made for them in England, fitted them ad- 
 mirably, and set off their persons to great advan- 
 tage. They walked through the crowd along 
 with several chiefs* wives, and seemed in a high 
 degree to enjoy the bustling scene before them. 
 Betting was very spirited on the issue of the 
 race. Money of course was out of the question; 
 but among the lower classes its place was sup- 
 plied by axes, beads, knives, scissors, handker- 
 chiefs, and various kinds of trinkets; and among 
 the erees of the first and second grades we could 
 distinguish scarlet and blue cloths, silks, Chinese 
 shawls, calicoes, ribbons, &c. Several quarrels 
 occurred among the men, which were settled 
 a VAnglaise by the fist. One of the natives had 
 a dispute about a bet with an English sailor who 
 had been left here a short time before by his 
 captain for mutiny. The Indian felt he was 
 right, and refused to yield to the chicanery of 
 
 I 
 
SUMMARY JUSTICE. 
 
 41 
 
 the sailor, who, in order to intimidate him, drew 
 from his pocket a small pistol, which he cocked, 
 and presented in a menacing manner at the islan- 
 der's breast, swearing if he did not submit he 
 would shoot him : this however was disregarded 
 by the other, who seemed determined not to 
 flinch ; but the king, who had observed the 
 whole transaction from his jlevated position, 
 ordered the sailor to be brought up to him, which 
 was instantly complied with. He theti tiok the 
 pistol, and delivered it to one of his attenudT^ts 
 to be placed in the royal armoury ; and address- 
 ing the sailor, told him the only punishment he 
 should then inflict on him would be the forfeiture 
 of the pistol ; but in case he ever offended in the 
 same manner again, he would have him put to 
 death. We were quite delighted with this sum- 
 mary administration of justice, for the sailor ap- 
 peared to be a quarrelsome rascal, and bore an 
 infamous character among his associates. 
 
 After the race was over, several wrestling and 
 boxing matches took place, on which there was 
 also considerable betting. Some of our party 
 who were amateur pugilists declared their style 
 of hitting to be admirable ; but as I unfortu- 
 nately never studied the noble science of self-de- 
 fence, I am quite incompetent to hazard an 
 
i 
 
 I! 
 
 4» 
 
 THROWING THK SPEAR. 
 
 opinion on the subject. I will however say, 
 that no unfair play was used, and that no blow 
 was struck while a man was down. At the 
 termination of these encounters a large space 
 was formed, for two natives to display their skill 
 in throwing the spear. A full account of this 
 wonderful performance is given in Cook's 
 voyages ; and I can only add, that the amazing 
 activity evinced in avoiding each other's wea- 
 pons, by leaping to the right or left, or allowing 
 them to pass under their arms, between their 
 legs, &c. ; and their surprising dexterity and 
 self-possession in a situation in which an Euro- 
 pean would be transfixed ere he had time to 
 look about him, must be seen to be credited. 
 This exercise forms the amusement of their 
 earliest years, and is the ne plus ultra of their 
 education. No islander can take a wife until he 
 is able to withstand the attacks of any old war- 
 rior whom the chief of his tribe may appoint to 
 try him j so that this condemnation to celibacy, 
 among a people so notoriously amorous, contri- 
 butes, I should imagine, more than any other 
 cause, to the wonderful perfection at which they 
 have arrived in this exercise. 
 
 In front of the royal residence there are 
 planted thirty pieces of cannon ; fifteen on each 
 
 1 
 
MOURNING FOU A CHIEFS WIFE. 
 
 43 
 
 side ; chiefly six and nine pounders. A body 
 guard of handsome athletic young men are sta- 
 tioned close to the house j two of whom are 
 placed as sentinels at the door, and are relieved 
 with as much regularity as at any garrison in 
 England. In the day-time their muskets gene- 
 rally remain piled before the door, but are taken 
 in at night. These gardes-du-corps have no 
 particular dress to distinguish them from civi- 
 lians ; and after the amusements just mentioned 
 had ended, the king ordered them to go through 
 the manual and platoon exercises ; which, con- 
 sidering the limited means they have had for 
 learning, they performed with tolerable pre- 
 cision. 
 
 Shortly after quitting this noisy and bustling 
 scene of mirth and festivity we were attracted 
 by the sounds of mourning voices to a large 
 house in a retired corner of the village j in 
 front of which sat eight women, in a circle, all 
 in a state of intoxication. At times their voices 
 died away to a low mournful tone ; when, sud- 
 denly changing, they vented the wildest and 
 most frantic cries, tearing their hair, beating their 
 breasts, and gnawing the ends of their fingers : 
 in the intervals they moistened their parched 
 throats from a bottle which was passed round 
 
 MMithAcM'-aMu 
 
1 
 
 44 
 
 BILLY PITT, &C. 
 
 1^ 
 
 ru 
 
 r'i 
 n 
 
 from one to the other ; and after all had par- 
 taken of the libation they renewed their cries 
 with redoubled vigour. Their hanging breasts, 
 dishevelled hair, and fiery eyes, presented more 
 the appearance of furies than of human beings ; 
 and we were at first afraid to approach them, 
 apprehensive of an attack in the height of one of 
 their paroxysms. We were told, however, there 
 was no danger, and they would injure no one 
 save themselves. On inquiry, we ascertained 
 that the dead body of a chief's wife of the second 
 class lay in an adjoining house, and that these 
 women were her friends and relatives mourning 
 her death. This ceremony, although possessing 
 a degree of rude lachrymose comicality, had 
 nothing peculiarly interesting, and we quickly 
 left the scene. 
 
 Several of the chiefs have punctured on their 
 arms the names of celebrated English and Ame- 
 rican statesmen, captains of ships, 8cc. At the 
 race-course I observed Billy Pitt, George Wash- 
 ington, and Billy Cobbett, walking together in 
 the most familiar manner, and apparently en- 
 gaged in confidential conversation ; while, in 
 the centre of another group, Charley Fox, Tho- 
 mas Jefferson, James Maddison, Bonaparte, and 
 Tom Paine, were to be seen on equally friendly 
 
'i 
 
 HILLY PITT, 6CC. 
 
 45 
 
 terms with each other. They seem to be proud 
 of these names, and generally prefer them to 
 their own. Krimacoo, the prime minister, is 
 called Billy Pitt, from the great influence he 
 possesses. He is consulted by the king on oil 
 subjects of importance ; and in cases of jirticular 
 emergency Mr. Holmes is sent for to give his 
 advice. 
 
i 
 
 40 VISITS FROM THE ROVAL FAMILY. 
 
 .{ 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Tamaahmaah — The Eooranee — Curious cusiora — Fickleness 
 in dress — Character of natives — Important position of the 
 islands — Cow hunting — Complete our supplies — Take a 
 number of natives — Departure — New discovery — Arrival 
 at the Columbia. 
 
 From this period until our departure we were 
 honoured with several visits from the royal 
 family, principally connected with the business 
 of procuring our supplies. The king was a 
 hard bargain maker, and although he had 
 several pipes of Madeira in his stores, he would 
 not barter a single article until he obtained 
 a quarter-cask of that wine, of which he was 
 passionately fond. He was by no means as 
 generous as many of his subjects, and he 
 seldom committed an act of liberality without 
 having a particular object in view. He had 
 upwards of forty small schooners built by 
 the natives, which were quite useless to him 
 from their ignorance of navigation ; and 
 when he made the presents which I have al- 
 ready mentioned to the officers who had quar- 
 relled with their captains, he had in view their 
 
TAMAAHMAAH. 
 
 47 
 
 settling on the island, and availing himself of 
 their services in teaching the natives to navigate 
 these vessels. The taboos of Tamaahmaah were 
 often influenced by his dreams ; one of which 
 gave rise, while we remained here, to an extra- 
 ordinary proclamation, which ordered, that dur- 
 ing the space of one day *' no native should 
 leave the island ; and that no dogs should bark, 
 hogs grunt, or cocks crow!" This whimsical 
 prohibition was strictly complied with by the 
 islanders ; but I need scarcely state, that the 
 three last-mentioned classes of his majesty's sub- 
 jects did not yield it the same ready obedience. 
 This was called a dreaming taboo, to distinguish 
 it from the established ones, which occur at 
 stated periods, and are regulated by the high 
 priest. 
 
 At this time Tamaahmaah had only three chil- 
 dren living, two sons and one daughter. They 
 were rather homely in their appearance, and 
 aiforded a bad specimen of royal beauty. The 
 eldest son was about twenty years of age, and 
 was called the Eooranee. He possessed consi- 
 derable authority, and was more feared than his 
 father, though not so much beloved. The fol- 
 lowing anecdote will show the dread in which he 
 was held by the natives. Some of the men en- 
 
i 
 
 48 
 
 THE EOOIIANEE. 
 
 gaged in the Company's employment had re- 
 ceived permission to spend a day on shore : as 
 they did not return that night, I accompanied 
 Mr. Clarke the following morning in search of 
 them ; and after wandering about for some time, 
 we discovered the party descending a hill near 
 the village, each with a lass under his arm, their 
 hats decorated with flowers, ribbons, and hand- 
 kerchiefs, and a fifer and fiddler at their head, 
 playing away merrily. They were all nearly 
 " half-seas over," and were on their way to the 
 ship when they perceived us. They insisted in 
 an humble good-natured manner on our taking 
 the lead ; and as we were anxious to get them 
 on board, we accordingly joined them, and 
 i.iarched on at their head. We had not pro- 
 ceeded far when the Eooranee met us, and he 
 appeared so much pleased with the procession, 
 that he fell into the ranks. As we approached 
 the wharf, several of the natives, who had been 
 drawn by the sound of the music to the party, 
 retired on seeing the young prince ; but one un- 
 fortunate rascal, who was quite drunk, annoyed 
 us as we passed him, by pushing us and pulling 
 our clothes ; and as the king's son was dressed 
 like an European, he treated him in the same 
 manner ; but I never saw consternation so 
 
CURIOUS CUSTOM. 
 
 49 
 
 strongly depicted as when the poor wretch 
 looked up, and beheld the frowning countenance 
 of the dreaded Eooranee : the effect was instan- 
 taneous ; he fell prostrate, as if thunderstruck, 
 and remained perfectly motionless until we lost 
 sight of him. We however did not part with 
 the prince until he had promised that no pu- 
 nishment should be inflicted on the offending 
 islander. 
 
 The male branches of the royal family are 
 held in peculiar veneration, more particularly 
 their heads. No individual, with the exception 
 of the domestics specially appointed for that 
 purpose, is permitted to touch that part of their 
 sacred person, or any covering that has ever 
 been on it, upon pain of death. My ignorance 
 of this law was near embroiling me in a serious 
 scrape. A few days after our arrival, while 
 strolling on the outskirts of the village, I ob- 
 served an individual walking before me dressed 
 in a handsome green frock-coat, well-made pan- 
 taloons, and Hessian boots, followed by a native 
 carrying the tail of a white cow, which he used 
 in driving away the flies that annoyed his master. 
 As I was given to understand that I had been 
 introduced to all the white men of respectability 
 on the island, I felt anxious to ascertain who tiiis 
 
 VOL. I. s 
 
T 
 
 50 
 
 CURIOUS CUSTOM. 
 
 1 
 
 ,<' 
 
 
 important personage was, and therefore took a 
 circuitous turn in order to have a front view 
 of him. It was the Eooranee. He called me 
 to him, and we sat down under the shade of 
 some plantain trees. He then began to examine 
 my clothes very minutely, and took off my hat, 
 which was a handsome one of Portuguese wil- 
 low. While this examination was going on, I 
 felt a desire to look at his, which was of a pecu- 
 liarly fine texture, and therefore uncovered the 
 head of his highness with as little ceremony as 
 he had observed towards me; but I had scarcely 
 touched the forbidden covering when I received 
 a warm soufflet on the right cheek from the at- 
 tendant. Not knowing the cause of this aggres- 
 sion, I determined on instant retaliation, and 
 seizing a stone, was in the act of hurling it at 
 the fellow's head, when my arm was arrested by 
 the Eooranee, who begged of me, in broken 
 English, to desist, and at the same time turned 
 to his domestic, whom he reprimanded with 
 marks of evident displeasure, after which he or- 
 dered him to retire. 
 
 While this was going on, I observed Anderson 
 the armourer pass, to whom I related the circum- 
 stance. The king's son then spoke to him for 
 some time, after which Anderson told me that if 
 
 y. 
 
FICKLENESS IN DRESS. 
 
 61 
 
 any islander had committed such an offence, in- 
 stant death would have followed; and added, 
 that the prince begged him to assure me that he 
 deeply regretted the conduct of his domestic, who 
 should have distinguished between a stranger 
 and a native, and that he had dismissed him with 
 disgrace. When Anderson had finished, the 
 Eooranee grasped my hand in the m -st friendly 
 manner ; and as I felt satisfied with the explana- 
 tion he had given, I returned its pressure with 
 equal warmth. At this period the resident white 
 people looked to his succession with considerable 
 apprehension, as he was supposed to entertain 
 views hostile to their interests. They might have 
 been led to form this conclusion from his distant 
 habits, and capricious tyranny towards his imme- 
 diate followers ; but I am happy to state, their 
 fears were groundless ; for on his accession to 
 the supreme power at his father's death, he 
 treated them with marked indulgence, and held 
 out the greatest encouragement to white people 
 to settle on the island. The day after the cir- 
 cumstance above detailed, I met him near the 
 king's house in a state of nudity, conversing with 
 some of the guards, and the same evening I 
 again saw him in the loose light dress of a West 
 India planter. His father and himself were very 
 
 E 2 
 
.n 
 
 DEATH OF THE KING. 
 
 •< 
 
 H 
 
 t 
 
 'v 
 
 i ^ 
 
 I 
 
 fickle in their clothing-. I saw the old man one 
 day in the full dress of an English general, which 
 had been sent to him by his late majesty George 
 III. ; but he felt so awkward in the cocked-hat, 
 boots, &c. that he quickly got rid of them, and a 
 few hours afterwards we saw him lounging about 
 the village, sans hat, sans coat, sans shirt, sans cu- 
 lottes, sans every thing I On the death of the 
 old king the Eooranee succeeded by the title of 
 Tamaahmaah the Second.* At the period of 
 our visit they knew nothing of the Christian re- 
 ligion ; and the white professors of it who were 
 resident among them, were badly calculated to 
 inculcate its divine precepts. Since then, how- 
 ever, thanks to the indefatigable and praisewor- 
 thy exertions of the missionaries, this rude, but 
 noble-hearted race of people, have been rescued 
 from their diabolical superstitions, and the greater 
 part of them now enjoy the blessings of Chris- 
 tianity. 
 
 Cook, Vancouver, Perouse, and others, have 
 already written so ably on the manners, customs, 
 amusements, laws, religion, and natural produc- 
 tions of these islands, that I might very probably 
 
 * This unfortunate prince is the same who, with his young 
 queen, lately fell victims to misjudged British hospitality, 
 joined to a climate to which they were unaccustomed. 
 
 % 
 
CHARACTER OF NATIVES. 
 
 6$ 
 
 subject myself to the charge of plagiarism, or 
 book-making, if I touched on them. To those 
 therefore who feel anxious for farther informa- 
 tion on these subjects, I would recommend tho 
 above authorities, in which they will have their 
 curiosity amply gratified. 
 
 The vice of thieving attributed to the mule 
 inhabitants is rather exaggerated. It is certainly 
 true, that numbers of those who visit trading 
 ships are not scrupulous in appropriating to their 
 own use every trifling article on which they can 
 conveniently lay their hands ; but it should be 
 observed, they do not consider such abstractions 
 in the same light as if they robbed each other. 
 This circumstance I think it necessary to men- 
 tion, without attempting to justify it ; for wore 
 we to consider all their petty thefts in the same 
 point of view that we are accustomed to regard 
 such offences in civilised countries, we should 
 form a very poor opinion of their honesty. 
 
 The women, too, have been generally accused 
 of lasciyiousness ; but from what I saw, joined 
 to the information I obtained, I am induced to 
 think the charge too general. It must, indeed, 
 be admitted, that the deportment of those who 
 are in the hahit of frequenting trading ships is 
 not calculated to impress a stranger with a high 
 
li 
 
 » 
 
 54 
 
 CHARACTER OF NATIVES. 
 
 idea of their virtue : but why make the censure 
 general ? If a native of Owhyee were to form 
 his opinion of the morality of our countrywomen 
 from the disgusting conduct of the unfortunate 
 females who crowd our sea-ports and ships, I 
 should imagine he would entertain a very poor 
 estimate of English chastity. In the interior of 
 the islands, and at a distance from sea-ports, I 
 am informed that in the relative situation of 
 wife and mother, their conduct is irreproachable. 
 It is true, that in the places at which ships are 
 accustomed to touch, a universal depravity seems 
 to pervade all classes; for it is no uncommon 
 sight to see parents bring their daughters ; bro- 
 thers their sisters ; and husbands their wives, to 
 earn the wages of prostitution. These vices 
 cannot, I fear, be totally eradicated j but it is 
 pleasing to learn, that through the active agency 
 of the missionaries, their frightful predominancy 
 has been greatly diminished. In other respects, 
 the natives are brave, active, hospitable, true to 
 their word, confiding, cleanly in their domestic 
 economy, easily satisfied at their meals, obedient 
 to proper authority, excellent agriculturalists, 
 quick in learning, with an aptitude for improve- 
 ment that is really astonishing ; and on the 
 whole I would say, that their character presents 
 
 < 
 
POSITION OF THE ISLANDS. 
 
 65 
 
 a fairer field for success to the exertions of the 
 moral cultivator than that of any untutored 
 people whom I ever met. 
 
 Recent events seem destined to place the 
 Sandwich Islands in a much more important 
 situation on the political map of the world, than 
 they occupied fifteen or twenty years ago. While 
 Spain had possession of Mexico, California, and 
 the southern continent, they were seldom visited 
 but by fur traders, for the purpose of refitting, 
 or obtaining fresh provisions j and were regarded 
 by the world more as objects of curiosity than as 
 places from which any political advantages were 
 likely to be derived. But now that the Mexi- 
 cans and southern Americans have succeeded in 
 emancipating themselves from the slothful des- 
 potism of their ancient rulers, the native energies 
 of their character will shortly begin to develope 
 themselves ; and uncontrolled by the trammels 
 which so long fettered their commercial pros- 
 perity, a few years may see their fleets, in imita- 
 tion of their bold and enterprising brethren of the 
 northern continent, ploughing their way through 
 the Pacific, and, in exchange for their precious 
 metals, bringing back to their country the luxu- 
 rious productions of China and the Indies. The 
 Sandwich Islands are nearly equidistant from 
 
56 
 
 POSITION OF THE ISLANDS. 
 
 li 
 
 \i I 
 
 I" 1 
 
 the western coast of Mexico and the eastern 
 boundaries of China, and consequently lie nearly 
 in the track of vessels passing* between the two 
 continents. But the circumstance of all others 
 calculated to raise them to the highest degree of 
 importance, is the stupendous enterprise lately 
 set on foot of forming a junction between the 
 Pacific and Atlantic, by cutting a canal through 
 the Isthmus of Darien. If this magnificent 
 undertaking succeed, the long and dangerous 
 voyages round Cape Horn and the Cape of 
 Good Hope will be avoided, and comparatively 
 short and safe passages made to the western 
 coast of America, Japan, China, our East Indian 
 possessions, &c. 
 
 In the course of these voyages, particularly to 
 the East, the Sandwich Islands must be touched 
 at for fresh supplies, or, at least, closely passed. 
 In either case, they will become an important 
 acquisition to a maritime power. With the at 
 sistance of science, they can be rendered inipreg"- 
 nable J and when we take into consideration their 
 great natural capabilities of defence, their noble 
 harbours, productive soil, and temperate climate, 
 joined to the inoffensive deportment of the inha- 
 bitants, we may safely conclude that their present 
 state of independence will not be of long dura- 
 
 4 
 
 I! 
 
cow HUNTING. 
 
 57 
 
 tion. It is probable they will ultimately become 
 tributary to Great Britain, Russia, or America; 
 and in the event of war between any of these na- 
 tions, the power in possession of the islands, from 
 their commanding position, will be able, during 
 the continuation of hostilities, not only to con- 
 troul the commerce of the Pacific, but also neu- 
 tralise, in a great degree, the advantages likely 
 to be derived from the Grand Junction Canal. 
 
 Several of our domestic quadrupeds are now 
 reared on the islands j such as cows, sheep, goats, 
 and horses. The last are brought from California, 
 and are a small hardy race. The cows at Woahoo 
 are the descendants of those left there by our 
 navigators, and are perfectly wild. We pur- 
 chased two of them from the king ; and he or- 
 dered upwards of one hundred men of his body 
 guard, with several chiefs, to proceed to the place 
 where the animals were grazing, to assist us in 
 catching those we had bought. It was situated 
 a few miles from the village, in a handsome val- 
 ley, studded with cocoa-nut trees. A couple of 
 hundred additional natives volunteered to join us. 
 They proceeded cautiously in the first instance, 
 until they surrounded the herd, which they suc- 
 ceeded in driving to an inclosure. One more ex- 
 pert than the rest then advanced, under the cover 
 
58 
 
 cow HUNTIVO. 
 
 ! ( 
 
 * 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 ■ ti 
 
 I ? 
 
 of some trees, with a long rope, at the end of 
 which was a running noose. Having quietly 
 waited for some time until a proper opportunity 
 offered, he at length threw the rope, and sue- 
 ceeded in catching a young cow. On feeling the 
 noose round her neck, she became quite furious, 
 and made a desperate plunge at him, which he 
 skilfully avoided by running up a cocc>t-iiut tree; 
 having previously fastened one end of the rope 
 round the trunk. We had intrenched ourselves 
 with the chiefs behind a stone wall, close to the 
 herd ; and being apprehensive that the captive 
 might break loose, we fired, and shot her. Upon 
 hearing the report, the herd rushed furiously out 
 of the inclosure, and ran at the natives ; but as 
 they had anticipated such a result, each man 
 secured a retreat behind a tree ; and in a moment 
 after the furious animals had gained their freedom 
 three hundred cocoa-nut trees might have been 
 seen, each manned with a native, who looked 
 down with the full confidence of security on the 
 enraged herd below. Finding it impossible to 
 catch another, we were obliged to fire among 
 them, and killed a second. A few shots without 
 ball were then discharged, which drove them to 
 their old pasture, and enabled the natives to de- 
 scend. The king preserved these cattle for the 
 
ENLISTMENTS. 
 
 .0<J 
 
 purpose of bartering with ships touching there 
 for provisions ; and though he killed none for 
 the royal table, he very condescendingly accepted 
 from us a present of a sirloin. 
 
 As we intended to engage some of the natives 
 for the Company's service ut the Columbia, and 
 as the captain also required some to assist in 
 working the ship, (several of the crew being in- 
 different sailors,) he demanded permission from 
 Tamaahmaah to engage the number that should 
 be deemed necessary : this was at once granted ; 
 and Messrs. Holmes and Maninna were re- 
 quested to act as recruiting sergeants on the oc- 
 casion, which duty they kindly undertook to 
 perform. On the intelligence being announced, 
 the vessel was crowded with numbers, all offer- 
 ing to *' take on." With the assistance of the 
 above gentlemen we selected twenty-six of the 
 most able-bodied of these volunteers : sixteen 
 for the Company's service, and ten for the ship's. 
 We agreed to pay each man ten dollars a month, 
 and a suit of clothes annually. An old expe- 
 rienced, islander, who was called Boatswain Tom, 
 and who had made sever- 1 voyages both to Eu- 
 rope and America, was engaged to command 
 them : he got fifteen dollars a month, and was 
 to have the sole control of his countrymen. Se- 
 
1 
 
 '■¥ ' 
 
 60 
 
 COMPLETION OF STORES. 
 
 ! 
 
 I 
 
 veral of the females also volunteered to accom- 
 pany us, but we were obliged to decline their 
 kind offers. Mr. Wadsworth, of whom I have 
 already spoken, was also engaged for the Com- 
 pany's service, to act as an officer on sea or 
 land, as occasion should require. He brought 
 his lady with him, not being accustomed, as he 
 declared, to live in a state of single blessedness. 
 
 On the 5th of April we got all our supplies on 
 board. They consisted of sixty hogs, two boats 
 full of sugar-cane to feed them, some thousand 
 cocoa-nuts, with as much bananas, plantains, 
 taro, melons, &c., as could be conveniently 
 stowed in the ship. The same evening we took 
 leave of the king and royal family, and bade 
 adieu to our kind white friends ; after which we 
 embarked ; and on the following morning, Tues- 
 day, April the 6th, we weighed anchor, and set 
 sail for the Columbia. Krikapooree, the king's 
 nephew, and several young chiefs, accompanied 
 us three or four leagues from land, and took 
 leave of us with tears in their eyes. The addi- 
 tion we received to our numbers in live stock, 
 joined to the cargo of fruit, &c., lumbered our 
 deck greatly, aad annoyed the crew in working 
 the ship. When any number of the natives were 
 wanted to perform a particular duty, word was 
 
DISCOVERY. 
 
 Cl 
 
 passed to Bo8*u Tom ; who, to do him justice, 
 betrayed none of the softer feelings of national 
 partiality to his countrymen. The moment he 
 gave •• the dreadful word " it was followed by a 
 horrid yell ; and with a rope*s end he laid on the 
 back and shoulders of every poor devil who did 
 not happen to be as alert as he wished, accom- 
 panied by a laughable melange of curses in 
 broken English, and imprecations in his own 
 language. 
 
 We had tolerably good easterly breezes, and 
 nothing particular occurred until the 18th, at 
 four P.M., when a man ahead cried out " Land 
 on the weather-bowl" As we were then not 
 more than half way between the islands and the 
 American continent, we eagerly rushed on deck 
 to feast our eyes with a view of our new dis- 
 covery. 
 
 After looking at it for some time very atten- 
 tively through his glass, the captain pronounced 
 it to be an island, with a dark-brown soil, and 
 apparently destitute of vegetation j and added, 
 with marks of evident exultation, that he always 
 felt certain we should fall in with unknown 
 islands in these latitudes, (about 35" north,) and 
 in that expectation had diverged materially from 
 the usual course of vessels proceeding to the 
 
DISCOVERY. 
 
 north-west coast. We now sounded, but got no 
 bottom with one hundred fathoms : and while 
 this was going on we were all busy in forming 
 conjectures respecting this terra incognita. The 
 first thing to be decided on was the name. One 
 thought that Mr. Aator^ being the owner of the 
 ship, and the founder of the company, had the 
 best claim, and therefore moved that it be called 
 ** Astor's Island :" this having been seconded, 
 an amendment was moved by another person, 
 who argued that the ship had a prior right to 
 the honour, and stated he would have it called 
 *' Beaver Island :" the amendment having been 
 seconded, was about to be put, when the captain 
 declared that, fond as he was of his ship, and 
 highly as he respected his owner, he thought the 
 claims of their immortal president superior to 
 either, and that he would therefore, without 
 consulting the wishes of any one, call it " Mad- 
 dison's Island." Although there were few ad- 
 mirers of the *• immortal " president on boar.], 
 the captain's decision settled the controversy ; 
 for on such occasions he is always the high priest. 
 Mr. Clarke said, if it proved any way fruitful, 
 he would colonize it, and appoint Wadsworth, 
 with his island beauty, king and queen. Some 
 hoped the inhabitants would not be afraid of 
 
DISAPPOINTIVfENT. 
 
 63 
 
 white men ; while others cursed the inhabitants, 
 particularly the females, and expressed a wish 
 that the new discovery would contain some cool- 
 ing* simples. In the mean time, we kept stand- 
 ing under easy sail for this unknown pai idise ; 
 but in proportion as we advanced the hills 
 seemed to ascend, and blend their cragg-y sum- 
 mits with the passing clouds : a pale bright open- 
 ing appeared to divide the land ; and the sad 
 conviction was at length forced on us, that Mad- 
 dison's Island was, like his immortality, based 
 on a nebulous foundation : in fact, it turned out 
 what sailors call " r; cape fly-away island ;" and 
 all our glorious speculations dissolved literally 
 in nuhihus. 
 
 This disappointment chagrined us much ; but 
 none felt it more sensibly than the captain, who 
 was quite chapfallen on the occasion. However, 
 on the 1st of May, we made the real terra jirmoy 
 in lat. 41° N., Cape Orford in sight. We 
 coasted along-shore until the 5th, when we had 
 the happiness of beholding the entrance of the 
 long-wished-for Columbia, which empties itself 
 into the Pacific in lat. 46° 19' N., and long. 
 120° W. Light baffling winds, joined to the 
 captain's timidity, obliged us to stand off and on 
 until the 8th, on which day we descried a white 
 
^1 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 4: 
 
 if " 
 
 
 d 
 
 
 ' \ 
 
 "%\': 
 
 \A 
 
 ■ i 
 
 64 
 
 ARRIVAL AT THE 
 
 flag hoisted on Cape Disappointment, the northern 
 extremity of the land at the entrance of the river. 
 A large fire was also kept burning on the cape 
 at night, which served as a beacon. A danger- 
 ous bar runs across the mouth of the Columbia ; 
 the channel for crossing it is on the northern side 
 close to the cape, and is very narrow, and from 
 thence to the opposite point on the southern side, 
 which is called Point Adams, extends a chain 
 or reef of rocks and sand-banks, over which the 
 dreadful roaring of the mighty waters of the 
 Columbia, in forcing their passage to the ocean, 
 is heard for miles distant. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 9th Mr. Rhodes 
 was ordered out in the cutter, on the perilous 
 duty of sounding the channel of the bar, and 
 placing the buoys necessary for the safe guidance 
 of the ship. While he was performing this duty 
 we fired several guns ; and, about ten o'clock 
 in the morning, we were delighted with hearing 
 the report of three cannon from the shore in 
 answer to ours. Towards noon an Indian canoe 
 was discovered making for us, and a few moments 
 after a barge was perceived following it. Various 
 were the hopes and fears by which we were 
 agitated, as we waited in anxious expectation 
 the arrival of the strangers from whom we were 
 
COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 65 
 
 to learn the fate of our predecessors, and of the 
 party who had crossed the continent Vague 
 rumours had reached the Sandwich Islands from 
 a coasting vessel, that the Tonquin had been cut 
 off by the Indians, and every soul on board 
 destroyed j and, since we came in sight of the 
 river, the captain's ominous forebodings had 
 almost prepared the weaker part of our people 
 to hear that some dreadful fatality had befallen 
 our infant establishment. Not even the sound 
 of the cannon, and the sight of the flag and fire 
 on the cape, were proofs strong enough to shake 
 his doubts. " An old bird was not to be caught 
 with chaff /* he was too well acquainted with 
 Indian cunning and treachery to be deceived by 
 such appearances. It was possible enough that 
 the savages might have surprised the fort, mur- 
 dered its inmates, seized the property, fired the 
 cannon, to induce us to cross the bar, which, 
 when once effected, they could easily cut us off 
 before we could get out again. He even car- 
 ried his caution so far, as to order a party of 
 armed men to be in readiness to receive our vi- 
 sitors The canOe arrived first alongside : in it 
 was an old Indian, blind of an eye, who appeared 
 to be a chief, with six others, nearly naked, and 
 the most repulsive looking beings that ever dis- 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
OG 
 
 VISITS FROM SHORE. 
 
 4 
 
 
 \l ; 
 
 I : 
 
 '^ * 
 
 graced the fair form of humanity. The only in- 
 telligence we could obtain from them was, that 
 the people in the barge were white like ourselves, 
 and had a house on shore. A few minutes after- 
 wards it came alongside, and dissipated all our 
 fearful dreams of murder, &c., and we had the 
 <lelightful, the inexpressible pleasure of shaking 
 hands with Messrs. Duncan M'Dougall and Do- 
 nald M'Lennan ; the former a partner, and the 
 latter a clerk of the Company, with eight Cana- 
 dian boatmen. After our congratulations were 
 over, they informed us, that on receiving intelli- 
 gence the day before from the Indians that a 
 ship was off the river, they came down from the 
 fort, a distance of twelve miles, to Cape Disap- 
 pointment, on which they hoisted the flag we 
 had seen, and set fire to several trees to serve in 
 lieu of a lighthouse. 
 
 The tide was now making in, and as Mr. 
 Rhodes had returned from placing the buoys, 
 Mr. M'Lennan, v ho was well acquainted with 
 the channel, took charge of the ship as pilot ; 
 and at half-pist two p. m. we crossed the bar, 
 on which we struck twice without sustaining any 
 injury ; shortly after which we dropped anchor 
 in Baker's Buy, after a tedious voyage of six 
 months and twontv-two da vs. Mr. M'Douii'uU 
 
VISITS FROM SHORE. 
 
 m 
 
 [ily in- 
 3, that 
 •selves, 
 9 after- 
 all our 
 Lad the 
 shaking 
 ,nd Do- 
 md the 
 t Cana- 
 ls were 
 
 intelli- 
 } that a 
 rem the 
 
 Disap- 
 flag we 
 serve in 
 
 t 
 
 informed us that the one-eyed Indian who had 
 preceded him in the canoe was the principal 
 chief of the Chinook nation, who reside on the 
 northern side of the river near its mouth j that 
 his name was Comcomly, and that he was much 
 attached to the whites : we therefore made him 
 a present, and gave some trifling articles to his 
 attendants, after which they departed. 
 
 as Mr. 
 buoys, 
 ed with 
 IS pilot; 
 the bar, 
 ling any 
 I anchor 
 e of six 
 Douiiall 
 
 Y i 
 
rm^mmmm 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 r ; 
 
 V h 
 
 r 
 I 
 
 68 
 
 LANDING. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Account of the Totiquin — Loss of her chief mate, seven men, 
 and two boats — Extraordinary escape of Weekes — Erection 
 of Astoria — Mr. Thompson of the N. VV. Company — Arrival 
 of Messrs. Hunt and Mackenzie, and sketch of their journey 
 over-land. 
 
 After the vessel was securely moored Captain 
 Sowles joined our party, and we took our leave 
 of the good ship Beaver j in which, after a 
 voyage of six months and three weeks, we had 
 travelled upwards of twenty thousand miles. 
 
 In the evening we arrived at the Company's 
 establishment, which was called Fort Astoria in 
 honour of Mr. Astor. Here we found five pro- 
 prietors, nine clerks, and ninety artisans and 
 canoe-men, or, as they are commonly called in 
 the Indian country, voyageurs. We brought an 
 addition of thirty-six, including the islanders ; 
 so that our muster-rol!, including officers, &c. 
 amounted to one hundred and forty men. 
 
 The accounts which we received from our 
 friends at Astoria were highly discouraging as 
 to our future prospects, and deeply melancholy 
 as to the past. But, that my readers may un- 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE TONQUIN. 
 
 69 
 
 derstand the situation of affairs at the time of 
 our arrival, it will be necessary to take a short 
 retrospect of the transactions that occurred an- 
 tecedent to that period. 
 
 The ship Tonquin, to which I have alluded in 
 the introduction, mailed from New York on the 
 6th September, 1810. She was commanded by 
 Captain Jonathan Thorn, a gentleman who had 
 been formerly a first lieutenant in the navy of 
 the United States ; and while in that service, 
 during their short war with Algiers, had dis- 
 tinguished himself as a bold and daring ofHcer. 
 His manners were harsh and arbitrary, with a 
 strong tincture of that peculiar species of Ame- 
 rican amor patricBy the principal ingredient of 
 which is a marked antipathy to Great Britain 
 and its subjects. 
 
 Four partners, namely, Messrs. Alexander 
 M*Kay, Duncan M*Dougall, David and Robert 
 Stuart, embarked in her, with eight clerks, and 
 a number of artisans and voyageurSt all destined 
 for the. Company's establishment at the Co- 
 lumbia. These gentlemen were all British sub- 
 jects : and, although engaged with Americans in 
 a commercial speculation, and sailing under the 
 flag of the United States, were sincerely attached 
 to their king and the country of their birth. 
 
 ^1 
 
Ii 
 
 
 r 
 
 ^ Mi 
 
 I i 
 
 70 
 
 CONOIJCT OF THE CAl'TAIV. 
 
 Their patriotism was no recommendation to 
 Captain Thorn, who adopted every means in his 
 power to annoy and thwart thorn. To any 
 person who has been at sea it is unnecessary to 
 mention how easy it is for one of those nautical 
 despots to play the tyrant, and the facilities 
 which their situation affords, and of which they 
 too often avail themselves, of harassing every one 
 who is not slavishly subservient to their wishes. 
 
 Messrs. M'Kay, M'Doug-all, and the Stuarts, 
 had too much Highland blood in their veins to 
 submit patiently to the haughty and uncivil 
 treatment of the captain ; and the consequence 
 was, a series of quarrels and disagreeable recri- 
 minations; not merely in the cabin but on the 
 quarter-deck. 
 
 They touched at the Falkland Islands for a 
 supply of water , and while Mr. David Stuart 
 and Mr. Franchere, with a party, were on shore, 
 the captain, without any previous intimation, 
 suddenly gave orders to weigh anchor, and stood 
 out to sea, leaving the party on one of the most 
 desert and uninhabitable islands in the world. 
 The gentlemen on board expostulated in vain 
 against this act of tyrannic cruelty, when Mr. 
 Robert Stuart, nephew of the old gentleman 
 who had been left on shore, seized a brace of 
 
 I'AK 
 
ARRIVAL or Tllli T0N(U'1N. 
 
 71 
 
 tiou to 
 ts in his 
 Fo any 
 jisary to 
 nautical 
 facilities 
 ich they 
 irery one 
 (vishes. 
 Stuarts, 
 veins to 
 
 uncivil 
 lequence 
 fie recri- 
 
 on the 
 
 Is for a 
 
 Stuart 
 
 |n shore, 
 
 imation, 
 
 id stood 
 
 Ihe most 
 
 world. 
 
 in vain 
 
 en Mr. 
 
 itleman 
 
 •race of 
 
 piHtuls, and prcsontin^ one at the captain's head, 
 thrcnitened to blow out his brains if he did not 
 instantly order the ship to lay to and wait for 
 his uncle's party. Most part of the crew and 
 officers witnessed this scene ; and as they appeared 
 to sympathise deeply with young- Stuart, the cap- 
 tain thought it more prudent to submit, and gave 
 orders accordingly to shorten sail, and wait the 
 arrival of Mr. Stuart's party. 
 
 The determined resolution evinced by young 
 Mr. Stuart on this occasion, a;id the apparent 
 apathy of his officers, who stood quietly by while 
 a pistol was presented to his head, were never 
 forgiven by Captain Thorn. 
 
 The Tonquin doubled Cape Horn in safety, 
 and arrived in the middle of February at the 
 Sandwich Islands, from which place they took 
 ten natives for the establishment, and sailed 
 for the coast on the Ist of March. 
 
 On the 23rd of March they arrived at the 
 mouth of the Columbia ; and although it blew a 
 stiff breeze, the captain ordered Mr. Fox, the 
 chief mate, with two American sailors and two 
 Canadian voyageurst to proceed in the long-boat 
 towards the bar, for the purpose of sounding the 
 channel. - 
 
 From the threatening appearance of the sky 
 
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 IMAGE EVALUATION 
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 PhotDgraphic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14SS0 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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 .1,1 
 
 i 
 
 72 
 
 MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT. 
 
 and the violence of the g%\e, Mr. M'Kay thought 
 this a most hazardous undertaking, and implored 
 Captain Thorn to postpone it until the weather 
 became more moderate. His orders however 
 were peremptory ; and finding all remonstrance 
 useless, Mr. Fox with his little crew embarked, 
 and proceeded to fulfil his instructions. That 
 unfortunate officer seemed to have a presenti- 
 ment of his approaching fate, for on quitting the 
 vessel he took an a£Pectionate farewell of all his 
 friends ; to some of whom he mentioned he was 
 certain they would never see him again. His 
 prediction was verified; but we could never 
 ascertain correctly the particulars of their fate. 
 It is supposed however that the tide setting in, 
 joined to the violence of the wind, drove the 
 boat among the breakers, where it and its un- 
 fortunate crew must have been dashed to pieces. 
 The ship stood off and on during the 24th, and 
 on the ^th, the wind having moderated, she 
 stood in for Cape Disappointment. Mr. Aikin, 
 one of the officers accompanied by Weekes, the 
 smith. Coles, the sailmaker, and two Sandwich 
 islanders, were sent ahead in the jolly-boat to 
 ascertain the lowest depth of water in the chan- 
 nel ; the ship in the mean time following after, 
 under easy sail. Aikin reported by signal that 
 
PERILS OF THE TONQUIN. 
 
 73 
 
 there was water sufficient ; upon which the cap- 
 tain ordered all sail to be crowded, and stood in 
 for the bar. The jolly-boat was now ordered 
 to fall back and join the ship ; but having un- 
 fortunately got too far to the southward, it was 
 drawn within the influence of the current, and 
 carried with fearful rapidity towards the breakers. 
 It passed within pistol shot of the vessel, its 
 devoted crew crying out in the wildest accents 
 of despair for assistance. This however was 
 impossible, for at that moment the Tonquin 
 struck on the bar ; and the apprehension of 
 instant destruction precluded the possibility of 
 making any attempt Ij save the jolly-boat, which 
 by this time was carried out of sight. The wind 
 now moderated to a gentle' breeze ; but owing 
 to the tide setting out strongly, the water became 
 so low, that the ship struck several times j and 
 to add to the horror of their situation, they 
 were quickly surrounded by the darkness of 
 night. During an awful interval of three hours, 
 the sea beat over the vessel; and at times some 
 of the crew imagined they heard the screams of 
 their lost companions, borne by the night winds 
 over the foaming billows of the bar. A little 
 after twelve o'clock however the tide set in 
 strongly, with a fresh breeze from the westward } 
 
 S 
 

 7* 
 
 WEEKES ADVENTURE. 
 
 1 
 
 :/ 
 
 and all hands having set to work, they provi- 
 dentially succeeded in extricating themselves 
 from their perilous situation, and worked the 
 ship into Baker's Bay, inside Cape Disappoint- 
 ment, where they found a safe asylum. It blew 
 a perfect gale the remainder of the night. 
 
 On the m6ming of the S6th, some of the 
 natives came on board. They appeared to be 
 very friendly, and betrayed no symptoms of fear 
 or distrust. Parties were immediately despatch- 
 ed towards the northern shore, and round the 
 cape, in order to ascertain, if possible, the fate 
 of the two boats. 
 
 Shortly after one of them returned accompa- 
 nied by Weekes, who gave the following account 
 of his miraculous escape from a watery grave. 
 " When we passed the vessel, the boat, owing 
 to the want of a rudder, became quite unma- 
 nt^eable, and notwithstanding all our exertions, 
 we were carried into the northern edge of the 
 great chain of breakers. The tide and current 
 however were setting out so strongly, that we 
 were absolutely carried through the reef without 
 sustaining any injury, but immediately on the 
 outer edge a heavy sea struck us, and the boat 
 was upset. Messrs. Aikin and Coles disappeared 
 at once, and I never saw them afterwards. On 
 
 X. m 
 
WEEKES EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE. 
 
 15 
 
 \. 
 
 recovering my first shock, I found myself close 
 to the Sandwich islanders, who had stripped off 
 their clothes with extraordinary dispatch. We 
 all seized the boat, and after much difficulty suc- 
 ceeded in righting it. We then got out a little 
 of the water, which enabled one of the islanders 
 to enter the boat, and he quickly baled out the 
 remainder. His companion also recovered the 
 oars, and we then embarked. I endeavoured to 
 persuade the two poor islanders to row, well 
 knowing the exertion would keep them alive ; 
 but it was quite useless, they were so spent from 
 fatigue, and benumbed by the cold, that they 
 refused to do any thing, and threw themselves 
 down in the boat, apparently resigned to meet 
 their fate. I had no notion, however, of giving 
 up my life in that manner, and therefore pulled 
 away at the oars with all my strength. About 
 midnight one of my unfortunate companions 
 died, and bis surviving countryman flung him- 
 self on the body, from which I found it impossi- 
 ble to dislodge him. I continued hard at work 
 during the night, taking care to keep to the 
 northward of the bar, and at daylight found my- 
 self close to a sandy beach, on which the surf 
 beat heavily. I was nearly exhausted, and there- 
 fore determined to run all risks to get ashore. 
 
\ V 
 
 70 
 
 FORT ASTORIA. 
 
 I fortunately succeeded, and ran the boat on the 
 beach. I then assisted the islander, who had 
 some signs of life still in him, to land ; but tli|{ 
 poor fellow was too weak to follow me. I 
 therefore obliged to leave him, and shortly a1 
 fell on a well-beaten path, which in a few hours 
 brought me in sight of the ship, when I met the 
 party who conducted me on board. Thanks to 
 the Almighty for my wonderful escape I" 
 
 The people who went in search of the sur- 
 viving islander did not find him until the follow- 
 ing morning, when they discovered him in a 
 deplorable state, close to some rocks. They 
 carried him to the ship ; and in a few days, by 
 the proper and humane treatment of Mr. Fan- 
 chere, he was perfectly restored to his health. 
 
 Some time was occupied after their arrival in 
 looking out for a proper place to build their fort ; 
 and at length, on the ISth of April, they selected 
 a handsome and commanding situation, called 
 Point George, twelve miles from the cape, and 
 on the south side of the river. The keel of a 
 schooner of thirty tons' burden was also laid at 
 the same time, the skeleton of which had been 
 brought out from New York. 
 
 During the month of May Messrs. M*Kay, 
 Stuart, Franchere, and Matthews, made several 
 
\ ] 
 
 EXCURSION. 
 
 77 
 
 \. * 
 
 
 excursions up the river as far as the first rapids, 
 in which they were well received by the natives, 
 from whom they collected a quantity of furs. 
 
 It having been arranged that the Tonquin was 
 to make a coasting excursion as far as Cook's 
 River, and touch at the various harbours between 
 that place and the Columbia, she weighed anchor 
 on the Ist of June, and dropped down to Baker's 
 Bay. Mr. M*Kay, and Mr. Lewis, one of the 
 clerks, embarked in her for the purpose of ob- 
 taining a correct knowledge of the various tribes 
 on the coast, it being intended that after her 
 cruise to the northward, the ship was to return 
 to the Columbia, take what furs they might have 
 purchased during her absence, which the captain 
 was to dispose of in Canton, from whence he 
 was to return to New York with a cargo of 
 Chinese goods. 
 
 Mr. Mumford, the chief mate, in consequence 
 of a dispute with Captain Thorn, refused to pro- 
 ceed farther with him, and was engaged by the 
 Company to take the command of the little 
 schooner when finished. 
 
 The Tonquin took her final departure from 
 Columbia on the 5th of June, with a fair wind, 
 and passed the bar in safety. 
 
 In the month of July Mr. David Thompson, 
 
\)l 
 
 l/l 
 
 n/. 
 
 I 
 
 78 
 
 ARRIVALS. 
 
 astronomer to the North-west Company, of 
 which he was also a proprietor, arrived with 
 nine men in a canoe at Astoria, from the in- 
 terior. This gentleman came on a voyage of 
 discovery to the Columbia, preparatory to the 
 North-west Company forming a settlement at 
 the entrance of the river. He remained at As- 
 toria until the latter end of July, when he took 
 his departure for the interior ; Mr. David Stuart, 
 with three clerks and a party of Canadians ac- 
 companying him, for the purpose of selecting a 
 proper place on the upper parts of the river for 
 a trading establishment. 
 
 Early in the month of August a party of In- 
 dians from Gray's Harbour arrived at the mouth 
 of the Columbia for the purpose of fishing. 
 They told the Chinooks that the Tonquin had 
 been cut off by one of the northern tribes, ^nd 
 that every soul on board had been massacred. 
 This intelligence was not at first believed ; but 
 several other rumours of a similar nature having 
 reached Astoria, caused considerable uneasiness, 
 particularly as the month passed away without 
 any news of a satisfactory nature having been 
 received. 
 
 During the month of September the people at 
 the fort were kept in a state of feverish alarm 
 
 • ,7 
 
NEWS FROM THE INTERIOR. 
 
 79 
 
 I 
 
 by various reports of an intention on the part of 
 the natives to surprise and destroy them. Oc- 
 tober commenced, and the period fixed for the 
 return of the Tonquin had longf since elapsed, 
 still no intelligence of her arrived, with the ex- 
 ception of farther reports of her destruction, 
 accompanied by additional evidence, of a nature 
 so circumstantial as to leave little doubt but that 
 some dreadful fatality had occurred. 
 
 On the 5th of October, Messrs. Fillet and 
 McLennan, two of the clerks who had gone to 
 the interior with Mr. D. Stuart, returned to 
 Astoria, accompanied by a free hunter named 
 Bruguier, and two Iroquois hunters. They 
 stated that Mr. Stuart had chosen a place for a 
 trading post about seven hundred miles up the 
 Columbia, at the mouth of a river called Oak- 
 inagan, and among a friendly tribe, who appeared 
 to be well furnished with beaver. About this 
 period the schooner was completed and launcheJ. 
 She was called the DoU^t in honour of Mrs, 
 Astor; and as provisions at the fort became 
 scarce, she was despatched up the river for a 
 supply, under the command of Mr. R. Stuart 
 and Mr. Mumford. 
 
 The dark and dismal months of November and 
 December rolled over their heads without bring- 
 
 \ . 
 
i 
 
 80 
 
 ARRIVALS. 
 
 i^l 
 
 ing them any certain intelligence of the Tonquin. 
 During this period it rained incessantly ; and the 
 Indians had withdrawn themselves from the banks 
 of the Columbia to their winter-quarters in the 
 sheltered recesses of the forests, and in the vici- 
 nity of springs or small rivulets. 
 
 They continued in this state of disagreeable 
 anxiety until the 8th of January, 1812, when 
 their drooping spirits were somewhat raised by 
 the arrival of Mr. Donald M*Kenzie with two 
 canoes from the interior. This gentleman was 
 accompanied by Mr. M'Lellan, a proprietor, Mr. 
 Read, a clerk, and ten men. He had left St. 
 Louis in the month of August, 1810, in company 
 with Mr. Hunt. They passed the winter of that 
 year at a place called Nadwau, on the banks of 
 the Missouri, where they were joined by Messrs. 
 M'Lellan, Crooks, and Miller, three American 
 traders, connected with Mr. Astor. 
 
 In the spring of 1811 they ascended the Mis- 
 souri in two large barges, until they arrived on 
 the lands of a powerful tribe named the Arika- 
 raws. Here they met a Spanish trader, Mr. 
 Manuel Lisa, to whom they sold their barges and 
 a quantity of their merchandise. 
 
 Having purchased one hundred and thirty 
 horses from the Indians, they set off in the begin- 
 
OVERLAND JOURNEY. 
 
 81 
 
 >oin- 
 
 ning' of August on their land journey, to cross 
 the Rocky Mountains. Apprehensive of coming 
 in contact with the Black Feet, a warlike and 
 savage tribe, who have a strong antipathy to the 
 white men, they were obliged to proceed as far 
 south as the latitude of 40°, from whence they 
 turned into a north-west course. This brought 
 them to an old trading post, situated on the 
 banks of a small river ; and as they had no doubt 
 it would bring them to the Columbia, they im- 
 mediately set about making canoes, for the pur- 
 pose of descending that river. 
 
 Mr. Miller, not liking the aspect of affairs at 
 this place, requested permission to return to the 
 United States, which was granted ; and a few 
 men were allowed to accompany him on his way 
 back. 
 
 The party, which now consisted of about sixty 
 people, commenced their voyage downwards ; but 
 from the rapidity of the current, and the number 
 of dangerous rapids, they determined, after having 
 lost one man and a portion of their baggage, to 
 abandon such a perilous navigation, and under- 
 take the remainder of their journey on foot. 
 
 In pursuance of this resolution they divided 
 into four parties, under the commands of Messrs. 
 M*Kenzie, Hunt, M'Lellan, and Crooks ; still 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 Q 
 
82 
 
 OVERLAND JOURNEY. 
 
 ' 
 
 keeping in view their original intention of follow- 
 ing the course of the river. Messrs. M*Kenzie 
 and M*Lellan took the right bank, and Messrs. 
 Hunt and Crooks the left. They were under a 
 strong impression that a few days would bring 
 them to the Columbia, but they were miserably 
 disappointed. For three weeks they followed the 
 course of the river, which was one continued tor- 
 rent } and the banks of which, particularly the 
 northern, consisted of high precipitous rocks, 
 rising abruptly from the water's edge. The greater 
 part of this period was one of extreme suffering. 
 Their provisions became shortly exhausted, and 
 they were reduced to the necessity of broiling 
 even the leather of their shoes to sustain nature ; 
 while, to complete their misfortunes, they were 
 often unable to descend the steep declivities of 
 the rocks for a drink of the water which they 
 saw flowing beneath 'heir feet. 
 
 From the tormenting privations which they ex- 
 perienced in following the course of this stream, 
 they called it Mad River ; and in speaking of it 
 afterwards, the Canadians, from the bitterness of 
 their recollections, denominated it la maudite ri- 
 viere enragSe. Mr. Hunt's party did not suffer so 
 much as those on the right bank, in consequence 
 of occasionally meeting some of the natives ^ who, 
 
 'h 
 
OVERLAND JOUUNEY. 
 
 83 
 
 ex- 
 
 )f it 
 »s of 
 ri- 
 ^rso 
 jnce 
 rho, 
 
 although they always fled on perceiving them, 
 left their horses behind. The party were obliged 
 to kill a few of these animals, and in payment 
 for them, left some goods near their owners' 
 huts. 
 
 After a separation of some days the two parties 
 came in sight of each other ; and Mr. Hunt had 
 a canoe made out of the skin of a horse, in which 
 he sent some meat over to his famishing friends. 
 He also suggested the idea of their crossing over 
 in the canoe one by one to the south side, where 
 they would, at all events, have a better chance 
 of escaping death by starvation. This was readily 
 agreed toj but the attempt was unfortunately un- 
 successful. One of the best swimmers embarked 
 in the canoe, but it had scarcely reached the 
 centre of the river when, owing to the impetuo- 
 sity of the current, it upset, and the poor voyageur 
 sunk to rise no more. 
 
 Finding the impracticability of their reunion 
 by this means, they continued to pursue their 
 respective courses, and in a few days after Mr. 
 M'Kenzie's party fell on a considerable river, 
 which they subsequently ascertained to be Lewis' 
 River. Here they met a tribe of friendly Indians, 
 from whom they purchased several horses, and 
 with renovated spirits they pursued their journey 
 
 g2 
 
 A 
 
84 
 
 OVERLAND JOURNEY. 
 
 along the banks of the principal river. Among 
 this tribe they found a young white man in a 
 state of mental derangement. He had, however, 
 lucid intervals, and informed them that his name 
 was Archibald Petton, and that he was a native 
 of Connecticut ; that he had ascended the Mis- 
 souri with Mr. Henry, an American trader, who 
 built the house our people saw at the upper part 
 of Mad River ; that about three years ago the 
 place was attacked by the savages, who massacred 
 every man belonging to the establishment with 
 the exception of himself j and that having escaped 
 unperceived, he wandered about for several 
 weeks, until he met the friendly tribe with whom 
 we found him. The dreadful scenes he had 
 witnessed, joined to the sufferings he had gone 
 through, produced a partial derangement of his 
 intellect. His disorder was of an harmless na- 
 ture : and as it appeared probable that civilized 
 companionship would, in the course of time, re- 
 store him to his reason, Mr. M'Kenzie very 
 humanely brought him along with the party. 
 . On arriving at the entrance of Lewis' River, 
 they obtained canoes from the natives in ex- 
 change for their horses; and meeting with no 
 obstruction from thence downwards, arrived at 
 Astoria on the 18th of January, 1812. Their 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 
OVERLAND JOURNEY. 
 
 85 
 
 rer, 
 ex- 
 no 
 at 
 eir 
 
 ' 
 
 concave cheeks, protuberant bones, and tattered 
 garments, strongly indicated the dreadful exten 
 of their privations ; but their health appeared 
 uninjured, and their gastronomic powers un- 
 impaired. 
 
 From the day that the unlucky attempt was 
 made to cross in the canoe, Mr. M'Kenzie had 
 seen nothing of Mr. Hunt's party, and he was of 
 opinion they would not be able to reach the fort 
 until the spring was far advanced. He was, how- 
 ever mistaken ; for on the 15th of February, Mr. 
 Hunt, with thirty men, one woman, and two 
 children, arrived at Astoria. 
 
 This 3-entleman stewed that shortly after his last 
 separation from the northern party he arrived 
 among a friendly tribe, whose village was situ- 
 ated in the plains. They treated him and his 
 party with great hospitality ; in consequence of 
 which he remained ten days with them, for the 
 double purpose of recruiting his men and of 
 looking for one of his hunters, who had been 
 lost for somo days. Having received no intel- 
 ligence of the man, Mr. Hunt resumed his 
 journey, leaving Mr. Crooks, with five men, who 
 were much exhausted, among the Indians, who 
 promised to pay every attention to them, and 
 
 .f* 
 
86 
 
 DEPARTURES. 
 
 conduct them part of the way downwards on 
 their recovery. 
 
 Mr. Hunt, in the mean time, fell on the Co- 
 lumbia, some distance below its junction with 
 Lewis' River; and having also obtained canoes, 
 arrived safely on the day above mentioned. The 
 corporeal appearance of his party was somewhat 
 superior to that of Mr. M'Kenzie's, but their 
 outward habiliments were equally ragged. 
 
 The accession of so many hungry stomachs to 
 the half-starved garrison at Astoria, would have 
 produced serious inconvenience had not the fish- 
 ing season fortunately commenced earlier than 
 was anticipated, and supplied them with abun- 
 dance of a small delicious fish resembling pilchard, 
 and which is the same mentioned by Lewis and 
 Clarke as anchovy. 
 
 On the 30th of March the following departures 
 took place : Mr. Read for New York, charged 
 with dispatches to Mr. Astor, accompanied by 
 Mr. M*Lellan, who quitted the country in dis- 
 gust. This gentleman had fancied that a fortune 
 was to be made with extraordinary celerity in 
 the Columbia ; but finding his calculations had 
 exceeded the bounds of probability, he preferred 
 renewing his addresses to the fickle jade in a 
 country less subject to starvation and fighting. 
 
 i 
 
DEPARTURES. 
 
 fi7 
 
 Messrs. Farnham and M'Gillis, with a party, 
 also embarked for the purpose of proceeding to 
 the head of Mad River, for the trading goods 
 which Mr. Hunt had deposited there en cache ; 
 and Mr. Robert Stuart set off at the same time, 
 with a fresh supply for his uncle's establishment 
 at Oakinagan. 
 
 \ ; 
 
 I 
 
'. 
 
 ACCOUNT OF 
 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Particulars of the destruction of the Tonqiuin and crew — In- 
 dians attack a party ascending the river — Description of 
 fort, natives, and the country. 
 
 It is now time to return to the Tonquin, of 
 which no news had been heard during the win- 
 ter, with the exception of the flying rumours 
 already alluded to. That vessel, as mentioned 
 in the preceding chapter, sailed from the Co- 
 lumbia on the 5th of June 1811, on a trading 
 speculation to the 'northward ; and Mr. M'Kay 
 took on board, as an interpreter, a native of 
 Gray*8 Harbour, who was well acquainted with 
 the various dialects of the tribes on the coast. 
 From this Indian the following melancholy par- 
 ticulars were learned. 
 
 A few days after their departure from the 
 Columbia they anchored opposite a large village, 
 named New WTiittyy in the vicinity of Nootka, 
 where Mr. M'Kay immediately opened a smart 
 trade with the natives. He went on shore with 
 a few men ; was received in the most friendly 
 manner, and slept a couple of nights at the 
 
I 
 
 I I; 
 
 THE TONaUIN. 
 
 89 
 
 village. During this period several of the na- 
 tives visited the vessel with furs. The harsh 
 and unbending manners of the captain were not 
 calculated to win their esteem ; and having 
 struck one of their principal men whom he had 
 caught in a petty theft, a conspiracy was formed 
 by the friends of the chief to surprise and cut off 
 the vessel. The faithful interpreter, having dis- 
 covered their designs, lost no time in acquainting 
 Mr. M'Kay, who instantly hurried on board for 
 the purpose of warning the captain of the in- 
 tended attack. That evening Mr. M'Kay told 
 the interpreter that the captain only laughed at 
 the information, and said he could never believe 
 that a parcel of lazy thieving Indians would have 
 the courage to attack such a ship as his. The 
 native«!> in the mean time, apprehensive from 
 Mr. M 'Kay's sudden return that their plans 
 were suspected, visited the ship in small numbers, 
 totally unarmed, in order to throw our people 
 off their guard. Even the chief who had been 
 struck by Captain Thorn, and who was the head 
 of the conspiracy, came on board in a manner 
 seemingly friendly, and apparently forgetful of 
 the insult he had received. 
 
 Early in the morning of the day previous to 
 that on which the ship was to leave New Whitty 
 
^/^ 
 
 ACCOUNT OF 
 
 a couple of large canoes, tmch containing about 
 twenty men, appeared along-side. They brought 
 several small bundles of furs ; and, as the sailors 
 imagined they came for the purpose of trading, 
 were allowed to come on deck. Shortly after, 
 another canoe, with an equal number, arrived 
 also with furs : and it was quickly followed by 
 two others, full of men carrying beaver, otter, 
 and other valuable skins. No opposition was 
 made to their coming on board \ but the officer 
 of the watch perceiving a number of other canoes 
 pushing off, became suspicious of their inten- 
 tions, and warned Captain Thorn of the circum- 
 stance. He immediately came on the quarter- 
 deck, accompanied by Mr. M*Kay and the in- 
 terpreter. The latter, on observing that they 
 all wore short cloaks or mantles of skins, which 
 was by no means a general custom, at once 
 knew their designs were hostile, and told Mr. 
 M*Kay of his suspicions. That gentleman im- 
 mediately apprised Captain Thorn of the cir- 
 cumstances, and begged him to lose no time in 
 clearing the ship of the intruders. This caution 
 was however treated with contempt by the cap- 
 tain, who remarked, that with the arms they 
 had on board they, would be more than a match 
 for three times the number. The sailors in the 
 
THE TONQUIN. 
 
 91 
 
 f i 
 
 mean time had all come on the deck, which was 
 crowded with Indians, who completely blocked 
 up the passages, and obstructed the men in the 
 performance of their various duties. The cap- 
 tain requested them to retire, to which they paid 
 no attention. He then told them he was about 
 going to sea, and had given orders to the men to 
 raise the anchor ; that he hoped they would go 
 away quietly ; but if they refused, he should be 
 be compelled to force their departure. He had 
 scarcely finished, when, at a signal given by one 
 of the chiefs, a loud and frightful yell was heard 
 from the assembled savages, who commenced a 
 sudden and simultaneous attack on the olBficers 
 and crew with knives, bludgeons, and short 
 sabres, which they had concealed under their 
 robes. * 
 
 Mr. M'Kay was one of the first attacked. 
 One Indian gave him a severe blow with a blud- 
 geon, which partially stunned him ; upon which 
 he was seized by five or six others, who threw 
 him overboard into a canoe alongside, where he 
 quickly recovered, and was allowed to remain 
 for some time uninjured. 
 
 Captain Thorn made an ineffectual attempt to 
 reach the cabin for his fire-arms, but was over- 
 powered by numbers. His only weaj)on was a 
 
92 
 
 DESTRUCTION OF 
 
 jack-knife, with which he killed four of his sa- 
 vage assailants by ripping up their bellies, and 
 mutilated several others. Covered with wounds, 
 and exhausted from the loss of blood, he rested 
 himself for a moment by leaning on the tiller 
 wheel, when he received a dreadful blow from a 
 weapon called a pnutumaugan,* on the back 
 part of the head, which felled him to the deck. 
 The death-dealing knife fell from his hand ; and 
 his savage butchers, after extinguishing the few 
 sparks of life that still remained, threw his 
 mangled body overboard. 
 
 On seeing the captain's fate, our informant, 
 who was close to him, and who had hitherto 
 escaped uninjured, jumped into the water, and 
 was taken into a canoe by some women, who 
 partially covered his body with mats. He states 
 that the original intention of the enemy was to 
 detain Mr. M*Kay a prisoner j and, after se- 
 curing the vessel, to give him his liberty, on ob- 
 taining a ransom from Astoria : but on finding 
 the resistance made by the captain and crew, the 
 former of whom had killed one of their principal 
 chiefs, their love of. gain gave way to revenge, 
 and they resolved to destroy him. The last 
 
 * A species of half sabre, half club, from two to three feet 
 iu length, six inches in breadth, and double edged. 
 
THb: TONQUIN. 
 
 93 
 
 let 
 
 time tho ill.fated gentleman was seen, his head 
 was hanging* over the nide of a canoe, and three 
 savages, armed with piUitmnnuganst were batter- 
 ing out his brains. 
 
 In the mean time the devoted crew, who had 
 maintained the unequal conflict with unparalleled 
 bravery, became gradually overpowered. Three 
 of them, John Anderson, the boatswain, John 
 Weekes, the carpenter, Stephen Weekes, who had 
 so narrowly escaped at the Columbia, succeeded, 
 after a desperate struggle, in gaining possession 
 of the cabin, the entrance to which they se- 
 curely fastened inside. The Indians now became 
 more cautious, for they well knew there were 
 plenty of fire-arms below ; and they had already 
 experienced enough of the prowess of the 
 three men while on deck, and armed only with 
 hand-spikes, to dread approaching them while 
 they had more mortal weapons at their com- 
 mand. 
 
 Anderson and his two companions seeing their 
 commander and the crew dead and dying about 
 them, and that no hope of escape remained, and 
 feeling moreover, the uselessness of any farther 
 opposition, determined on taking a terrible re- 
 venge. Two of them, therefore, set about laying 
 a train to the powder niagaKine, while the third 
 
m 
 
 FATE OF THE SUUVIVOUS. 
 
 K 
 
 addressed some Indians from the cabin windows, 
 who were in canoes, and gave them to under- 
 stand, that if they were permitted to depart un- 
 molested in one of the ship's boats, they would 
 give them quiet possession of the vessel without 
 firing a shot j stipulating, however, that no canoe 
 should remain near them while getting into the 
 boat. The anxiety of the barbarians to obtain 
 possession of the plunder, and their disinclina- 
 tion to risk any more lives, induced them to 
 embrace this proposition with eagerness, and the 
 pinnace was immediately brought astern. The 
 three heroes having by this time perfected their 
 dreadful arrangements, and ascertained that no 
 Indian was watching them, gradually lowered 
 themselves from the cabin windows into the 
 boat ', and having fired the train, quickly pushed 
 off towards the mouth of the harbour, no obsta- 
 cle being interposed to prevent their departure. 
 
 Hundreds of the enemy now rushed on deck 
 to seize the long-expected prize, shouting yells of 
 victory j but their triumph was of short dura- 
 tion. Just as they had burst open the cabin 
 door, an explosion took place, which in an in^ 
 stant hurled upwards of two hundred savages 
 into eternity, and dreadfully injured as many 
 more. The interpreter, who had by this time 
 

 FATE OF THE SURVIVORS. 
 
 95 
 
 reached land, states he saw many mutilated 
 bodies floating near the beach, while heads, 
 arms, and legs, together with fragments of the 
 ship, were thrown to a considerable distance 
 on the shore. 
 
 The first impression of the survivors was, that 
 the Master of Life had sent forth the Evil Spirit 
 from the waters to punish them for their cruelty 
 to the white people. This belief, joined to the 
 consternation occasioned by the shock, and the 
 reproaches and lamentations of the wives and 
 other relatives of the sufferers, paralysed for a 
 time the exertions of the savages, and favoured 
 the attempt of Anderson and his brave comrades 
 to escape. They rowed hard for the mouth of 
 the harbour, with the intention, as is supposed, 
 of coasting along the shore to the Columbia ; but 
 after passing the bar, a head wind and flowing 
 tide drove them back, and compelled them to 
 land late at night in a small cove, where they 
 fancied themselves i'ree from danger ; and where, 
 weak from the loss of blood, and the harassing 
 exertions of the day, they fell into a profound 
 sleep. 
 
 In the mean time, the terror of the Indians 
 had in some degree subsided, and they quickly 
 discovered that it was by human agency so many 
 
9P FATE OF THE SURVIVORS. 
 
 of their warriors had been destroyed. They 
 therefore determined on having' the lives of those 
 who caused the explosion ; and being* aware, 
 from the state of the wind and tide, that the 
 boat could not put to sea, a party proceeded 
 after dark cautiously along the shore of the bay, 
 until they arrived at the spot where their helpless 
 victims lay slumbering. Bleeding and exhausted, 
 they opposed but a feeble resistance to their 
 savage conquerors ; and about midnight, their 
 heroic spirits mingled with those of their de- 
 parted comrades. 
 
 Thus perished the last of the gallant crew of 
 the Tonquin : and in reflecting on their melan- 
 choly fate, it is deeply to be regretted that there 
 was no person of sufficient influence at Astoria 
 to bring about a reconciliation between Captain 
 Thorn and Mr. M'Kay ; for were it not for the 
 deplorable hostility and consequent want of 
 union that existed between these two brave 
 men, it is more than probable this dreadful ca- 
 tastrophe would never have occurred.* 
 
 On the morning of the 11th of May, the day 
 after our arrival, while walking with some of my 
 
 * From tbe particular description given by our informant 
 of the dress and personal appearance of Anderson and the two 
 Wcekeses, we had no doubt of their identity. 
 
 i 
 
 /I- 
 
INDIAN /♦TTACK. 
 
 companions in front of the furt, indulging in 
 gloomy reflections on the fate of the Tonquin, 
 and the unpromising appearance of our general 
 affairs, we were surprised by the arrival of two 
 canoes with Messrs. Robert Stuart, M'Lellan, 
 Reed, and Farnham, together with Messrs. David 
 Stuart, and R. Crooks. The unexpected return 
 of the [four first individuals, who had only left 
 the fort on the SOth March, was caused by a 
 serious rencontre which they had with the natives 
 in ascending. On arriving at tho portage of the 
 falls, which is very long and fatiguing, several of 
 the Indians in a friendly manner tendered their 
 horses to transport the goods. Mr. Stuart, hav- 
 ing no suspicion of their dishonesty, gladly ac- 
 cepted the offer, and entrusted a few of them 
 with several small packets of merchandize to 
 carry. On arriving, however, in a rocky and 
 solitary part of the portage, the rascals turned 
 their horses' heads into a narrow pathway and 
 galloped off with the goods, with which they es- 
 caped. Their comrades on foot in the mean time 
 crowded about the voyngeurs who were carry- 
 ing the packages, and as Mr. Stuart observed 
 the necessity of greater precaution, he took 
 his post at the upper end of the portage, leav- 
 ing Messrs. Reed and M'Lellan in charge of 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 H 
 
k'\ 
 
 ■■ I 
 
 f I 
 
 98 
 
 INDIAN ATTACK. 
 
 the rear-guard. Mr. Reed was the bearer of 
 the dispatches, and had a tin case, in which they 
 were contained, flung over his shoulders. Its 
 brightness attracted the attention of the natives, 
 and they resolved to obtain possession of the 
 prize. A group, therefore, patiently watched his 
 motions for some time, until they observed he 
 had separated himself from M*Lellan, and gone 
 ahead a short distance. The moment they sup- 
 posed he was alone they sprung on him, seized 
 his arms, and succeeded in capturing the tin 
 case after a brave resistance, in the course of 
 which he was knocked down twice, and nearly 
 killed. Mr. M'Lellan, who had been an atten- 
 tive observer of the whole transaction, instantly 
 fired, and one of the robbers fell ; upon which 
 his companions fled, not however without secur- 
 ing the plunder. Mr. M*Lellan, imagining that 
 Mr. Reed had been killed, immediately joined 
 Mr. Stuart, and urged that gentleman to fly 
 from a place so pregnant with danger. This, 
 however, he refused until he was satisfied re- 
 specting Mr. Reed*s fate ; and taking a few men 
 with him, he repaired towards the spot where 
 Reed had been attacked. The latter had in the 
 mean time somewhat recovered from the effects 
 of his wounds, and was slowly dragging himself 
 
 • i^ 
 
V ( 
 
 INDIAN ATTACK. 
 
 99 
 
 along when Mr. Stuart's party came to his as- 
 sistance, and conducted him to the upper end of 
 the portage in safety. The loss of the dispatches 
 determined Mr. Stuart to postpone Mr. Reed's 
 journey to New York, and the whole party pro- 
 ceeded to Oakinagan, the post established by 
 Mr. David Stuart. They remained here only a 
 few days, and early in May left it on their return 
 to Fort Astoria. On their way down, near the 
 entrance of the Shoshone river, they fell in with 
 Mr. R. Crooks and a Kentucky hunter, named 
 John Day, in a state of miserable destitution. 
 
 I have already mentioned that this gentleman, 
 with five of his men, owing to their inability to 
 continue the journey from excessive fatigue, had 
 been left by Mr. Hunt among a tribe of friendly 
 Indians, supposed to be a branch of the extensive 
 Snake nation. Finding, however, that they had 
 nothing to expect from the strangers, these sa- 
 vages, shortly after the departure of Mr. Hunt, 
 robbed them of every article in their possession, 
 even to their shirts, in exchange for which they 
 gave them a few old skins to cover their naked- 
 ness. 
 
 The miserable party, thus attired, and without 
 any provisions, recommenced their journey to the 
 
 H 2 
 
^■iivni 
 
 100 
 
 THE FORT. 
 
 Columbia, on the banks of which they arrrived a 
 few days previous to the descent of Mr. Stuart's 
 party. . ^ 
 
 ' ' Here was a frightful addition to our stock of 
 disasters. Fighting, robbery, and starvation, in 
 the interior, with drownings, massacres, and ap- 
 prehensions of farther attacks from the Indians 
 on the coast, formed a combination sufficient to 
 damp the ardour of the youngest, or the courage 
 of the most enterprizing. The retrospect was 
 gloomy, and the future full of " shadows, clouds, 
 and darkness." The scene before us, however, 
 was novel, and for a time our ideas were diverted 
 from the thoughts of " battle, murder, and sud- 
 den death," to the striking peculiarities connected 
 with our present situation. 
 
 The spot selected for the fort was on a hand- 
 some eminence called Point Oeorge, which com- 
 manded an extensive view of the majestic Co- 
 lumbia in front, bounded by the bold and thickly 
 wooded northern shore. On the right, about 
 three miles distant, a long, high and rocky penin- 
 sula covered with timber, called Tongue Pointy 
 extended a considerable distance into the river 
 from the southern side with which it was con- 
 nected by a narrow neck of land ; while on the 
 
THE FORT. 
 
 101 
 
 extreme left, Cape Disappointmentt with the 
 bar and its terrific chain of breakers, were dis- 
 tinctly visible. ' . , 
 
 The buildings consisted of apartments fur tho 
 proprietors and clerks, with a capacious dining- 
 hall for both, extensive warehouses for the trad- 
 ing goods and furs, a provision store, a trading 
 shop, smith's forge, carpenters workshop, &c. 
 The whole surrounded by stockades forming a 
 square, and reaching about fifteen feet over the 
 ground. A gallery ran round the stockades, in 
 which loop-holes were pierced sufficiently large 
 for musketry. Two strong bastions built of logs 
 commanded the four sides of the square : each 
 bastion had two stories, in which a number of 
 chosen men slept every night. A six-pounder 
 was placed in the lower story, and they were 
 both well provided with small arms. 
 
 Immediately in front of the fort was a gentle 
 declivity sloping down to the river's side, which 
 had been turned into an excellent kitchen gar- 
 den ; and a few hundred yards to the left, 'i 
 tolerable wharf had been run out, by which 6«- 
 teaua: and boats were enabled at low water to 
 land their cargoes without sustaining any damage. 
 An impenetrable forest of gigantic pine rose in 
 the rear ; and the ground was covered with a 
 
102 
 
 THE NATIVES, 
 
 .1 
 
 thick underwood of brier and huckleberry, in- 
 termingled with fern and honeysuckle. 
 
 Numbers of the natives crowded in and about 
 the fort. They were most uncouth-'looking ob- 
 jects ; and not strongly calculated to impress us 
 with a favourable opinion of aboriginal beauty, or 
 the purity of Indian manners. A few of the men 
 were partially covered, but the greater number 
 were unannoyed by vestments of any description. 
 Their eyes were black piercing, and treacherous ; 
 their ears slit up, and ornamented with strings of 
 beads ; the cartilage of their nostrils perforated, 
 and adorned with pieces of hyaquau placed hori- 
 zontally ; while their heads presented an inclined 
 plane from the crown to the upper part of the 
 nose, totally unlike our European rotundity of 
 cranium ; and their bodies besmeared with whale 
 oil, gave them an appearance horribly disgusting. 
 Then the women, — O ye gods I With the same 
 auricular, olfactory, and craniological peculiarities, 
 they exhibited loose hanging breasts, short dirty 
 teeth, skin saturated with blubber, bandy legs, 
 and a waddling gait ; while their only dress con- 
 sisted of a kind of petticoat, or rather kilt, formed 
 of small strands of cedar bark twisted into cords, 
 and reaching from the waist to the knee. This 
 covering in calm weather, or in an erect position, 
 
THE PINE TREE. 
 
 103 
 
 M 
 
 served all the purposes of concealment ; but in a 
 breeze, or when indulging their fayourite position 
 of squatting, formed a miserable shield in defence 
 of decency ; and worse than all, their repulsive 
 familiarities rendered them objects insupportably 
 odious ; particularly when contrasted with the 
 lively eyes, handsome features, fine teeth, open 
 countenance, and graceful carriage of the inter- 
 esting islanders whom we had lately left. 
 
 From these ugly specimens of mortality we 
 turned with pleasure to contemplate the pro- 
 ductions of their country, amongst the most won- 
 derful of which are the fir-trees. The largest 
 species grow to an immense size, and one imme- 
 diately behind the fort at the height of ten feet 
 from the surface of the earth measured forty-six 
 feet in circumference I The trunk of this tree had 
 about one hundred and fifty feet free from bran- 
 ches. Its top had been some time before blasted 
 by lightning; and to judge by comparison, its 
 height when perfect must have exceeded three 
 hundred feet I This was however an extraor- 
 dinary tree in that country, and was denominated 
 by the Canadians Le Roi de Pins.* 
 
 I 
 
 * A pine tree has been subsequently discovered in the 
 Umpqua country, to the southward of the Columbia, the cir- 
 
104 
 
 PRODUCTIONS OF 
 
 The general size however of the diiFerent spe- 
 cies of fir far exceeds any thing on the east side 
 of the Rocky Mountains ; and prime sound pine 
 from two hundred to two hundred and eighty 
 feet in height, and from twenty to forty feet in 
 circumference, are by no means uncommon. > 
 
 Buffon asserts that " living nature is less active, 
 less energetic in the new world than the old," 
 which he attributes to the prevalence of moisture 
 and deficiency of heat in America. This asser- 
 tion was ably combated by the late Mr. Jeff'erson j 
 but, without entering into the arguments of these 
 celebrated philosophers, we may safely state, that 
 if America be inferior to the old continent in the 
 animal world, she can at least assert her superi- 
 ority in the vegetable. 
 
 En passant, I may here remark, that although 
 constant rains prevail eight months out of the 
 twelve, and during the remaining four, which are 
 the summer months, the heat is far from exces- 
 sive, the large and stately elk, which are nume- 
 rous about the lower shores of the Columbia, are 
 equal, if not superior in size to those found in the 
 hottest and driest parts of the world. 
 
 There are five or six different species of fir. 
 
 I 
 
 cumference ut' which is 57 feet; its height 21 G i'ect without 
 branches ! 
 
THE COUNTRY. 
 
 105 
 
 the 
 
 are 
 
 :ces- 
 
 ime- 
 
 i, are 
 
 the 
 
 fir, 
 thout 
 
 I 
 
 
 with the peculiar qualities of which I am unac- 
 quainted. They split even, make good canoes, 
 yield little ashes, scarcely produce any gum, and 
 are excellent for building and other domestic 
 purposes. 
 
 Our table was daily supplied with elk, wild 
 fowl, and fish. Of the last, we feasted on the 
 royal sturgeon, which is here large, white, and 
 firm ; unrivalled salmon ; and abundance of the 
 sweet little anchovy, which is taken in such 
 quantities by the Indians, that we have seen their 
 houses garnished with several hundred strings of 
 them, dry and drying. We had them generally 
 twice a day, at breakfast and dinner, and in a few 
 weeks got such a surfeit, that few of us for years 
 afterwards tasted an anchovy. 
 
 We remained upwards of six weeks at the fort, 
 preparing for our grand expedition into the inte- 
 rior. During this period I went on several short 
 excursions to the villages of various tribes up the 
 river and about the bay. The natives generally 
 received us with friendship and hospitality. They 
 vary little in their habits or language j and the 
 perfect uniformity in the shape of their heads 
 would, I fancy, puzzle the phrenological skill of 
 the most learned disciples of Gall or Spurzheim. 
 I made a few midnight visits to their cemeteries, 
 from which I abstracted a couple of skulls, which 
 
106- 
 
 EXCURSION. 
 
 M 
 
 appeared totally devoid of any peculiar organic 
 developement. I regret that our travelling ar- 
 rangements prevented me from bringing them 
 across the mountains j for, without ocular proof, 
 I fear the faculty could not be brought to believe 
 that the human head was capable of being mould- 
 ed to a shape so unlike the great mass of man- 
 kind. This however is dangerous ground ; and 
 I shall not pursue the subject farther, lest I 
 might provoke the gall of the believers in the 
 theory of craniology, among whom, I am aware, 
 may be reckoned some of the most eminent men 
 in the literary world. 
 
 We also visited Fort Clatsop, the place where 
 Captains Lewis and Clarke spent the winter of 
 1805-6 f an accurate description of which is 
 given in the journal of those enterprising tra- 
 vellers. The logs of the house were still stand- 
 ing, and marked with the names of several of 
 their party. 
 
 The most striking peculiarity of the immense 
 forests which we observed in the course of these 
 excursions was the total absence of the " wood 
 notes wild" of the feathered tribe ; and, except 
 in the vicinity of a village, their deep and im- 
 pervious gloom resembles the silence and soli- 
 tude of death. 
 
 \ 
 
 f 
 
 ¥ 
 
 ij 
 
uui'AiiTuni!: rnoM astouia. 
 
 107 
 
 i 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Ueparture IVuiii AnturiM— DoHoription of our party, landing 
 &c. — Appt'itrrtiiPO ol'rlvpf nnd islanrls— Fleas and musqui- 
 tocH — Firwt i'H|ii(l», diiiiprous accident— Indian cemetery — 
 Ugly IndinnH^Uibi'ultur->-Cupe Horn — The narrows and 
 falls— CImng© ill Ui« nppcuriiuoc of the country — Attempt 
 at robb«ry~--Muuii(ed IndiuuH. 
 
 In travelling' through the Indian country se- 
 veral (lays niuit necessarily elapse devoid of 
 interestingc matter ; and to the general reader a 
 succinct detail of the diurnal proceedings of Indian 
 traders would bo rather dry. I do not profess 
 to write a journuli and shall therefore make 
 no apology for iparing my readers the trouble of 
 perusing in every page the verbose accuracy 
 which details, that in summer journies we rise 
 each morning between three and four o'clock, 
 breakfast between nine and ten, and encamp be- 
 tween six and ieven in the evening ; and that, 
 while on the water, few days elapse in which we 
 are not obliged to put ashore several times to re- 
 pair the damage suitained by our canoes in pass- 
 ing rapids, portagen, or sunken trees. 
 
 On the ^9th of .lunu, 181S, all the necessary 
 
108 
 
 THE PARTY. 
 
 1'^ ■ 
 
 li 
 
 u i 
 
 
 arrangements having been perfected, we took our 
 departure from Astoria for the interior. Our 
 party consisted of three proprietors, nine clerks, 
 fifty-five Canadians, twenty Sandwich islanders,* 
 and Messrs, Crooks, M'Lellan, and R. Stuart, 
 who, with eight men, were to proceed with dis- 
 patches to St. Lewis. Messrs. Hunt, M'Dougal, 
 Clapp, Halsey, and Franchere, remained at the 
 fort. The Beaver had previously sailed for Can- 
 ton, whence it was intended she should return to 
 New York. 
 
 We travelled in bateaux and light-built wooden 
 canoes : the former had eight, and the latter six 
 men. Our lading consisted of guns and ammu- 
 nition, spears, hatchets, knives, beaver traps, cop- 
 per and brass kettles, white and green blankets, 
 blue, green, and red cloths, calicoes, beads, rings, 
 thimbles, hawk-bells, &c. ; and our provisions of 
 beef, pork, flour, rice, biscuits, tea, sugar, with a 
 moderate quantity of rum, wine, &c. : the soft 
 and hard goods were secured in bales and boxes, 
 and the liquids in kegs, holding on an average 
 nine gallons : the guns were stowed in long 
 cases. From thirty to forty of these packages 
 
 * The Tonquin had brought fifteen of the Sandwich islan- 
 ders from Whoahoo, which joined with those we brought, 
 aiDounted to tliirty-one. Eleven remained at the fort. 
 
THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 109 
 
 ii 
 
 and kegs were placed in each vessel, and the 
 whole was covered by an oil-cloth or tarpaulin, 
 to preserve them from wet. Each canoe and 
 barge had from six to eight men rowing or 
 paddling, independent of the passengers. 
 
 The Columbia is a noble river, uninterrupted 
 by rapids for one hundred and seventy miles ; 
 one hundred of which are navigable for vessels 
 of three hundred tons. It is seldom less than 
 a mile wide ; but in some places its breadth 
 varies from two to five miles. The shores are 
 generally bold and thickly wooded. Pine in all 
 its varieties predominates, and is mixed with 
 white oak, ash, beech, poplar, alder, crab, and 
 cotton wood, with an undergrowth of briers, 
 &c., through which our hunters made many in- 
 effectual attempts to pass. The navigation is often 
 obstructed by sand-banks, which are scattered 
 over different parts of the river below the rapids, 
 and are dry at low water. In the neighbourhood 
 of these sand-banks the shores are generally low, 
 and present some fine flat bottoms of rich 
 meadow ground, bordered by a profusion of 
 blackberry and other wild fruit shrubs : in the 
 deep and narrow paths of the channel, the shores 
 are bolder. The river, up to the rapids, is 
 covered with several islands, from one to three 
 
' \ 
 
 i< 
 
 I! 
 
 [| 
 
 ri (•■ 
 
 r » 
 
 I. 
 
 M 
 
 110 
 
 MIDNIGHT ADVENTURE. 
 
 miles in length ; some of which are fine mea- 
 dows, and others well wooded. Great caution 
 is required to avoid sunken trees, called snags or 
 planters, and by the Canadians chicots^ which 
 are generally concealed under the surface of the 
 water ; and which, if they come in contact with 
 canoes, sailing rapidly, may cause them to sink if 
 assistance be not at hand. 
 
 About three miles above the fort a long and 
 narrow point of land, rather high, runs near half 
 a mile into the river from the south side : it is 
 called Tongue Point, and in boisterous weather 
 is very difficult to double. On quitting Astoria 
 it blew pretty fresh, and we took in a good deal 
 of water in doubling this point. We stopped for 
 the night about six miles above Tongue Point, 
 on the south side, close to an old uninhabited 
 village, but having no lack of animated beings of 
 another description ; I mean fleas, with which 
 the place was completely alive ; and we had not 
 been on shore five minutes when we were obliged 
 to strip, get a change of clothes, and drown the 
 invaders of our late suit by dipping them in the 
 river.* We had to pitch our tents on the sandy 
 beach to avoid their attacks ; but this was only 
 
 * During the warm months of summer it is difficult to select 
 a spot tor ail encampment free from these annoying insects. 
 
 .> 
 
MUSaiJITOKS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 I 
 
 ^1 
 
 " out of the frying-pan,'* &c. ; for about midnight 
 the tid'* came on xia unawares ; and the first in- 
 timation we received of our danger was the noise 
 of the water beating against the canoes and bag- 
 gage ; and when the alarm wan given, it was 
 nearly up to our knees on the beach. It was a 
 spring tide, on which the men did not calculate, 
 and therefore kept no watch j added to which, 
 every man was nearly drunk on quitting the 
 fort. 
 
 We had immediately to set about getting the 
 goods on the grass, and dressing ourselves. On 
 examination the following morning, we found 
 several bales were wet, which we were obliged 
 to open for the purpose of drying. T'his detained 
 us late, and we only made about ten miles on the 
 second day, and landed on a small bottom, free 
 from the tide, hut somewhat infested by fleas and 
 musquitoes. On the Ist of July it blew rather 
 stiffly from the south-east, which retarded our 
 progress considerably, and we did not make more 
 than fifteen miles ; but on the 2nd we had a good 
 run, and encamped on a fine meadow island, 
 where we hoped to spend a pleasant night, free 
 from fleas. Our hopes were partly realised : 
 none of the little agile backbiters attacked us ; 
 but their absence was more than amply compen- 
 
i 
 
 I 
 
 112 
 
 ARRIVAL AT THE RAPIDS. 
 
 11 
 
 sated by myriads of musquitoes, from which we 
 suffered the most painful torments all night ; the 
 face, ears, neck, and hands, were peculiar objects 
 of their affection ; and what between them and 
 their brethren of the blanket, we scarcely had an 
 unpunctured spot in our bodies. I was particu- 
 larly honoured with their preference ; and in the 
 morning my eyes were completely closed up from 
 the effects of their infernal stings. 
 
 We arrived on the evening of the 4ith at the 
 foot of the first rapids, where we encamped, 
 The Indians so far had been always friendly, and 
 were in the habit of occasionally trading at 
 Astoria; but as the tribe who resides at the 
 rapids had previously manifested h >stile feelings, 
 it was deemed necessary to prepare for action. 
 Each man was provided with a musket, and 
 forty rounds of ball-cartridge, with pouch, belts, 
 &c. ; and over his clothes he wore leathern 
 armour : this was a kind of shirt made out of 
 the skin of the elk, which reached from the neck 
 to the knees. It was perfectly arrow-proof j 
 and at eighty or ninety yards impenetrable by a 
 musket bullet. Besides the muskets, numbers 
 had daggers, short swords, and pistols ; and, 
 vyhen armed cap-d-pi4, we presented a formida- 
 ble appearance. 
 
 a? 
 
INDIAN CEMETERIES. 
 
 113 
 
 ' A council of war was then called, in which it 
 was arranged that five officers should remain at 
 each end of the portage, and the remainder, with 
 twenty-five men, be stationed at short distances 
 from each other. Its length was between three 
 and four miles, and the path was narrow and 
 dangerous ; one part greatly obstructed by slip- 
 pery rocks ; and another ran through a thick 
 wood, from which a skilful enemy could have 
 attacked us with advantage. We only made one 
 half of the portage the first day, and encamped 
 near an old village ; with the river in front ; a 
 deep wood in the rear ; at one end a natural in- 
 trenchment of rocks ; and at the other a barrier 
 formed by the canoes and bateaux. The whole 
 brigade was divided into three watches, with 
 five officers to each. 
 
 In the course of the day, in the most gloomy 
 part of the wood, we passed a cemetery, ma- 
 terially different from those belonging to the 
 lower tribes. There were nine shallow exca- 
 vations, closely covered with pine and cedar 
 boards, and the top boards sloping to let off the 
 rain. Each place was about seven feet square, 
 and between five and six feet in height. They 
 contained numbers of dead bodies ; some in a 
 state of greater or less decomposition, and a few 
 
 VOL. I. I 
 
:i 
 
 '1 ^ 
 
 in 
 
 114 
 
 ALAllM. 
 
 quite fresh : they were all carefully enveloped in 
 mats and skins. Several poles were attached to 
 these burial places, on which were suspended 
 robes, pieces of cloth, kettlea, bags of trinkets, 
 baskets of roots, wooden bowls, and several 
 ornaments ; all of which the survivors believed 
 their departed friends would require in the next 
 world. Their veneration is so great for these 
 offerings, that it is deemed sacrilege to pilfer one 
 of them ; and although these Indians are not re- 
 markable for scrupulous honesty, I believe no 
 temptation would induce them to touch these 
 articles. Several of the boards are carved and 
 painted with rude representations of men, bears, 
 wolves, and animals unknown. Some in green, 
 others in white and red, and all most hideously 
 unlike nature. 
 
 About midnight we were thrown into a state 
 of frightful confusion by the report of a gun, 
 and the cries of Mr. Fillet, one of the clerks, 
 that he was shot. Every one instantly seized his 
 arms, and enquired on which side was the enemy ; 
 but our apprehensions were quickly appeased, on 
 learning it was merely an accident. One of the 
 gentlemen, in examining the musket of a Sand- 
 wich islander, to see if it was primed, handed it 
 to him at full cock ^ and just as the islander had 
 
 
i 
 
 WARLIKE PREPARATIONS. 
 
 115 
 
 taken it, the piece went off, and the contents 
 lodged in the calf of poor Fillet's leg, who natu- 
 rally enough exclaimed he was shot. This was 
 however, in our present circumstances, a dis- 
 agreeable event, as it rendered Mr. Fillet not 
 only incapable of fighting, but required three or 
 four men to carry him in a litter oyer the various 
 portages. The wound was dressed with friar's 
 balsam and lint ', the ball extracted the next 
 day ', and in about a month afterwards he was able 
 to walk. 
 
 We commenced proceedings at four o'clock on 
 the morning of the 6th, and finishing the portage 
 about two in the afternoon. During our pro- 
 gress the Indians occasionally hovered about the 
 loaded men, and made two or three trifling 
 essays to pilfer them : but the excellent precau- 
 tions we had adopted completely kept them in 
 check, and deterred them from attempting any 
 thing like forcible robbery. At the upper end 
 of the portage, and while we were reloading the 
 canoes, a number of the natives, several of whom 
 were armed, assembled about us : they conducted 
 themselves peaceably j but our numbers and 
 warlike arrangements enforced respect. Tiio 
 dress of the men does not differ materially from 
 that of the Lower Indians ; but they are iucun- 
 
 I 'i 
 
V : 
 
 \ : ' 
 
 ! . 
 
 110 
 
 THE NATIVES. 
 
 testably more filthy and ugly. Their teeth are 
 almost worn away. The greater number have 
 very sore eyes : several have only one ; and we 
 observed a few old men and women quite blind. 
 The men are generally naked ; and the women 
 merely wear a leathern belt, with a narrow 
 piece of the same material joined to the front, 
 which very imperfectly answers the purposes in- 
 tended. Some wear leathern robes over the 
 breast and shoulders ; but others allow these 
 parts to remain naked. We observed no one 
 who appeared to assume the authority of a chief. 
 Each seemed quite independent of the other, and 
 complete master in his own house and family. 
 Their unfeeling brutality to the few old blind 
 people I have mentioned was really shocking ; 
 and I may safely say, a more unamiable race of 
 democrats are not to be found in that country of 
 republics. We distributed a quantity of tobacco 
 among them, with which they appeared satisfied ; 
 after which we embarked, and proceeded on. 
 The upper part of the chain of rapids is a per- 
 pendicular fall of nearly sixteen feet j after which 
 it continues down nearly one uninterrupted 
 rapid for three miles and a half. The river here 
 is compressed by the bold shore on each side to 
 about two hundred yards or less in breadth. 
 
 1$ 
 
PROVISION. 
 
 117 
 
 Tlie channel is crowded with large rocks, over 
 which the water rushes with incredible velocity, 
 and with a dreadful noise. Above the portage 
 the river widens to about half a mile, and is 
 studded for some distance with several rocky 
 and partially wooded islands. We encamped 
 above five miles from the portage, in a pretty 
 little creek on the north side. The pine declines 
 considerably in size above the rapids, and is more 
 equally mixed with other trees ; among which, 
 on the left shore, from the portage up to our en- 
 campment, the hazel is predominant. We pur- 
 chased some salmon on our way up, by which 
 we were enabled to husband our own provisions 
 with more economy. I omitted to mention that 
 below the rapids we also got a quantity of ex- 
 cellent roots, called by the Indians wappittoo : 
 in size they resemble a small potatoe, for which it 
 is a good substitute when roasted or boiled j it 
 has a very slight tinge of bitterness, but not un- 
 pleasantly so 'f and is highly esteemed by the 
 natives, who collect vast quantities of it for their 
 own use and for barter : none of it grows above 
 the rapids. On the evening of the 8th we reach- 
 ed the foot of the narrows, or, as the Canadians 
 call them, les dalles. The river from the first 
 rapids to the narrows is broad, deep, and rapid, 
 
118 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES. 
 
 with several sunken rocks, scattered here and 
 there, which often injure the canoes. The 
 Canadians, who are very fertile in baptizing re- 
 markable places, called an island near our en- 
 campment of the 6th, OibraltaTy from the rocky 
 steepness of its shore : and about half way be- 
 tween the first rapids and narrows a bold pro- 
 montory of high black rock stretches a consi- 
 derable distance into the river, which, from the 
 difficulty we experienced in doubling it, received 
 the name of Cope Horn. The current here is 
 very strong and full of whirlpools ; so that ex- 
 cept in calm weather, or with a fair wind, it is 
 rather a dangerous undertaking to '* double the 
 cape.** The islands in the di.^tance are crowded 
 with great numbers of seals, which afforded ex- 
 cellent sport to our marksmen. As we ap- 
 proached the narrows the shores on each side 
 were less covered with wood, and immediately , 
 close to them it had entirely disappeared. The 
 land on the north side was bold and rocky, and 
 about our encampment rather low, mixed with 
 rocks, a sandy soil, and totally devoid of vege- 
 tation, except loose straggling bushes some dis- 
 tance inland. The Columbia, at the narrows, 
 for upwards of three miles is compressed into a 
 narrow channel, not exceeding sixty or seventy 
 
 i 
 
COURSE OF THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 119 
 
 re and 
 The 
 ing re- 
 lur en- 
 B rocky 
 ray he- 
 ld pro- 
 , consi- 
 •om the 
 eceived 
 
 here is 
 that ex- 
 id, it is 
 ible the 
 rowded 
 Jed ex- 
 we ap- 
 ch side 
 ediately 
 . The 
 iky, and 
 ed with 
 )f vege- 
 »me dis- 
 larrows, 
 into a 
 
 seventy 
 
 
 yards wide ; the whole of which is a succession 
 of boiling whirlpools. Above this channel, for 
 four or five miles, the river is one deep rapid, at 
 the upper end of which a large mass of high 
 black rock stretches across from the north side, 
 and nearly joins a similar mass on the south : 
 they are divided by a straight not exceeding fifty 
 yards wide ; and through this narrow channel, 
 for upwards of half a mile, the immense waters 
 of the Columbia are one mass of foam, and force 
 their headlong course with a frightful impetuo- 
 sity, which cannot at any time be contemplated 
 without producing a painful giddiness. We 
 were obliged to carry all our lading from the 
 lower to the upper narrows, nearly nine miles. 
 The canoes were dragged up part of the space 
 between the narrows. This laborious undertak- 
 ing occupied two entire days, in consequence of 
 the number of armed men we were obliged to 
 keep as guards to protect those who carried the 
 goods. It was a little above this place where 
 our party had been recently attacked, and we 
 were therefore obliged to be doubly cautious. 
 The chief and several of the Indians kept about 
 us during the portage. We gave them some 
 tobacco and trifling presents to cultivate their 
 friendship, in return for which they brought us 
 
f 
 
 111 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ii 
 
 , ij 
 
 It 
 (I 
 
 \\ 
 
 120 
 
 INDIAN DECEIT. 
 
 some salmon. They had the discrimination to 
 see from our numbers, and the manner we were 
 prepared to receive them, that an attack would 
 be attended with rather doubtful success; and 
 therefore feigned an appearance of friendship, 
 which we affected to believe sincere. The pro- 
 priety of " assuming a virtue if we had it not,** 
 however questionable in morals, must be often 
 practised among Indians ; for they are such 
 thorough-bred hypocrites and liars, that we 
 found it often necessary to repose apparent 
 confidence in them, when we well knew they 
 were exerting their utmost skill to impose on 
 and deceive us. Even here while the chief 
 and some of his tribe were smoking with us 
 at one of the resting places, a few of the gen- 
 tlemen who were at the upper end of the port- 
 age, seeing no symptoms of danger, wandered 
 a short distance among the rocks to view the 
 narrows, leaving part of the goods unguarded : 
 this was instantly observed by two fellows who 
 were lurking close to the place, and who availed 
 themselves of the opportunity to attempt carry- 
 ing off an entire bale ; but finding it rather 
 heavy, were about rifling its contents when two 
 of the loaded men arrived, and gave the alarm. 
 The robbers had the audacity to attack the men, 
 
 f^ 
 
 
 ■sV 
 
ATTKMI»TK1) llOnnERY. 
 
 121 
 
 ■II 
 
 one of whom they knocked downj when the 
 officers, on fieoing what occurred, returned back 
 quickly, upon which the savages fled. A shot 
 was fired at them by our best marksman, who 
 was told merely to wing one, which he did with 
 great skill, by breaking his left arm, at upwards 
 of a hundred yardi distance. The fellow gave a 
 dreadful shout on receiving the ball, but still 
 continued his flight with his comrade, until we 
 lost sight of them. This piece of severity was 
 deemed necessary, to prevent repetitions of simi- 
 lar aggressions. The chief» in strong terms, de- 
 clared his ignorance of any previous intention on 
 the part of these fellows to commit robbery, 
 which we appeared not to doubt ; at the same 
 time giving him to understand, that in case any 
 farther attacks were made, our balls would be 
 directed to a more mortal part. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th we embarked, and 
 proceeded a few milei with great labour, by 
 dragging the canoes against the current, which is 
 very strong between the upper narrows and the 
 falls. The passengers all walked, and at some 
 ugly rocky points part of the lading had to be 
 taken out : this consumed the greater portion of 
 the day ; and we encamped that evening on the 
 south side near the foot of the falls. Here several 
 

 1S2 
 
 INDIAN VISITOIIS. 
 
 I ^ 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ! 
 
 II 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 Indians visited us ; some armed and on horse- 
 back, others unarmed, and on foot. In language, 
 dress, and manners, they appeared to belong to 
 distinct nations. The horsemen were clean, 
 wore handsome leathern shirts and leggings, and 
 had a bold daring manner, which we did not 
 observe with any of the tribes from the sea up- 
 wards. The more humble pedestrians were the 
 natives of the place : they were nearly naked, 
 and rather dirty in their persons, and professed 
 to be friendly : but from several attempts they 
 made at pilfering, we entertained strong doubts 
 of their sincerity j and were obliged to order 
 them to remove some distance from the camp. 
 They seemed to regard the mounted Indians 
 with a suspicious degree of apprehension, for 
 which we were for some time at a loss to ac- 
 count J but which we subsequently learned was 
 caused by their having been lately at war, in 
 which they were vanquished, and several of 
 their tribe killed by the equestrians. The latter 
 remained on horseback most part of the time, 
 making observations on our party, by which they 
 apparently intended to regulate their future pro- 
 ceedings : they made no show of friendship, 
 were rather cold and distant in their manners, 
 and appeared to be a reconnoitring party sent 
 
 I 
 
 n^W 
 
HOSTILE APPEARANCES. 
 
 V23 
 
 out by the main body to watch our progress. 
 As a precautionary measure, we judged it ex- 
 pedient to show them we were fully prepared 
 for action, and accordingly assembled all the 
 men in the evening, each encased in his coat of 
 mail, and armed with a musket and bayonet. 
 They remained looking at us very attentively, 
 while our officers proceeded to examine each 
 man's firelock with all due military solemnity : 
 one half of the men were then ordered to form 
 a barrier with the canoes on our rear and flanks, 
 which, with the river in front, eflPectually served 
 ii prevent a surprise during the night. The 
 whole brigade was equally divided ; and one 
 half of the men having retired to rest, the re- 
 mainder were posted as sentinels about the camp. 
 Owing to the extreme heat, the Sandwich is> 
 landers had thrown off their jackets and shirts 
 during the day, and their swarthy bodies, deco- 
 rated with buff belts, seemed to excite the par- 
 ticular attention of the Indians, who repeatedly 
 pointed towards them, and then spoke to each 
 other with considerable animation. Having com- 
 pleted our arrangements for the night, we offered 
 them some tobacco, which they accepted, and 
 then left us. It is necessary to observe, that in 
 the course of the day a calumet was presented to 
 
.« 
 
 124 
 
 RAPIDS AND FALLS. 
 
 some of the horsemen, which they refused ; from 
 which circumstance, joined to their general de- 
 portment, we were led to believe their visit was 
 not of a pacific nature. We passed the night 
 without any interruption to our repose, and 
 commenced the portage of the falls early on the 
 morning of the 12th; but as the ground over 
 which the men were obliged to carry the bag- 
 gage was covered with a deep bed of dry loose 
 sand, which fatigued them extremely, they did 
 not finish their laborious duty before night. We 
 encamped late at the upper end of the falls, near 
 a village of the Eneeshurs, from whom we pur- 
 chased some salmon. A few of the horsemen 
 occasionally reconnoitred us during the day ; 
 but as our men made short resting-places, or 
 pauses in the portage, by which the entire party 
 were always in view of each other, the natives 
 made no hostile attempt ; and on observing the 
 manner we had fortified our camp, and placed 
 our sentinels for the night, they departed. The 
 principal fall does not exceed fifteen feet in 
 height J but at low water it is much higher. 
 The descent of the Columbia from above this 
 fall to the end of the lower narrows exceeds 
 seventy feet, and throughout the whole distance 
 (about ten miles) the river is strewed with ini- 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
COURSE OF THE COLUMHIA. 
 
 nr) 
 
 mense masses of hard black rock, mostly honey- 
 combed, and worn into a variety of fantastic 
 shapes by the perpetual friction of the water in 
 its fearful course downwards. The appearance 
 of the country here is high, rocky, barren, and 
 without timber of any kind. We found this a 
 sensible inconvenience ; for wc were obliged to 
 purchase some drift wood from the Indians for 
 the purposes of cooking. 
 
 On quitting this place the following morning, 
 a number of natives collected about us, among 
 whom we distributed a quantity of tobacco. The 
 river for some distance above this place is deep 
 and rapid, and the banks steep and rocky. The 
 canoes were dragged up several miles, and some 
 of them damaged by the rocks. About four or 
 five miles above the fall a high rocky island three 
 miles in length lies in the centre of the river, 
 on which the Indians were employed drying 
 salmon, great quantities of which were cured 
 and piled under broad boards in stacks. Wc 
 encamped on the north side opposite the island, 
 and were visited by some Indians, from whom 
 we purchased salmon : they appeared friendly, 
 and belonged to the Eneeshur tribe at the falls. 
 
 Here, and for several hundred miles farther 
 upwards, the country assumes a new aspect : it 
 
126 
 
 COURSE OF THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 y 
 
 ) 
 
 i'\ 
 
 !: 
 
 ) 
 
 :! ; 
 
 I 
 
 - 
 
 is free from any rising grounds, or timber, and 
 on each side nothing is to be seen but immense 
 plains stretching a great distance to the north 
 and south : the soil is dry and sandy, and co- 
 vered with a loose parched grass, growing in 
 tufts. The natives reside solely on the northern 
 side : they have; plenty of horses, and are gene- 
 rally friendly. Here also rattlesnakes are first 
 seen, and are found for four or five hundred 
 miles farther on. Between this place and Lewis 
 River ihe Columbia is interrupted by several 
 rapids ; some of which are trifling, others dan- 
 gerous ; but there are long intervals of smooth 
 current which occasionally allowed us to hoist 
 small sails, and thereby diminished the laborious 
 duty of the canoe-men in paddling. 
 
 
 £• 
 
PROVISIONS. 
 
 1^7 
 
 -': A 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Party commence eating horses — Remarkable escape from a 
 rattlesnake — Kill numbers of them — Arrive among the Wal- 
 lah Wallah tribe — Description of the country — The Pierced 
 nose Indians— Author's party proceeds up Lewis River — 
 Purchase horses for land-travelling — Prickly pears — Awk- 
 ward accident — Leave the canoes> and journey inlmd. 
 
 The day after quitting the encampment at the 
 end of the rocky island we stopped about one 
 o'clock at a village, where we purchased five 
 horses. The value of the goods we paid for each 
 in England would not exceed five shillings. As 
 these horses were intended for the kettle, they 
 were doomed to instant destruction. Our com- 
 paratively , recent separation from the land o 
 " bread and butter, ** caused the idea of feeding 
 on so useful and noble an animal to be at first 
 highly repugnant to our feelings ; but example, 
 and above all, necessity, soon conquered these 
 little qualms of of civilization ; and in a few days 
 we almost brought ourselves to believe that the 
 animal on which we fed once carried horns, was 
 divided in the hoof, and chewed the cud. A curi- 
 ous incident occurred at this spot to one of our 
 
 .-..^,^ — H 
 
„/• 
 
 128 
 
 REMARKABLE ESCAPE. 
 
 men named La Course, which was nearly proving 
 fatal. This man had stretched himself on the 
 ground, after the fatigue of the day, with his 
 head resting on a small package of goods, and 
 quickly fell asleep. While in this situation I 
 passed him, and was almost petrified at seeing a 
 large rattlesnake moving from his side to his left 
 breast. My first impulse was to alarm La Course j 
 but an old Canadian whom I had beckoned to the 
 spot requested me to make no noise, alleging it 
 would merely cross the body and go away. He 
 was mistaken ; for on reaching the man's left 
 shoulder, the serpent deliberately coiled itself, but 
 did not appear to meditate an attack. Having 
 made signs to several others, who joined us, it was 
 determined that two men should advance a little 
 in front, to divert the attention'of the snake, while 
 one should approach La Course behind, and with 
 a long stick endeavour to remove it from his body . 
 The snake, on observing the men advance in front, 
 instantly raised its head, darted out its forked 
 tongue, and shook its rattles ; all indications of 
 anger. Every one was now in a state of feverish 
 agitation as to the fate of poor La Course, who 
 still lay slumbering, unconscious of his danger ; 
 when the man behind, who had procured a stick 
 seven feet in length, suddenly placed one end of 
 
MUSQUITOES. 
 
 1«2U 
 
 it under the coiled reptile, and succeeded in pitch- 
 ing it upwards of ten feet from the man's body. 
 A shout of joy was the first intimation La Course 
 received of his wonderful escape, while in the 
 mean time the man with the stick pursued the 
 snake which he killed. It was three feet iix 
 inches long ; and eleven years old, which I need 
 not inform my readers we easily ascertained by 
 the number of rattles. A general search was 
 then commenced about the encampment, and 
 fender several rocks we found upwards of fifty of 
 •.h< 11, all of which we destroyed. There is no 
 danger attending their destruction, provided a 
 person has a long pliant stick, and does not ap- 
 proach them nearer than their length, for they 
 cannot spring beyond it, and seldom act on the 
 offensive except closely pursued. They have a 
 strong repugnance to the smell of tobacco, in 
 consequence of which we opened a bale of it, and 
 strewed a quantity of loose leaves about the tenti, 
 by which means we avoided their visits during 
 the night. We had however nearly as bad visi- 
 tors — the musquitoes, which from the falls up- 
 wards annoyed us dreadfully. We were obliged 
 to make a slight lire of rotten wood in the cul- 
 de-sac of our tents, which merely caused a smoke 
 without flame, and which effectually drove them 
 
 VOL. I. K 
 
130 
 
 RATTLESNAKES. 
 
 ' } 
 
 I 
 
 I! , I 
 
 i 
 
 ■■}l 
 
 PS ■■ 
 
 away : but the remedy was as bad as the disease, 
 as we were nearly blinded and suffocated by the 
 smoke. '- '' * ' ' / 
 
 Owing to the many accidents which befell our 
 canoes in the rapids, and the time consequently 
 employed in repairing them, and drying damaged 
 goods, our progress was greatly retarded, and 
 we did not reach the Wallah Wallah river until 
 the 28th. During this period, we generally en- 
 camped on the northern banks of the river ; pur- 
 chased a number of horses for eating j and were 
 several times without wood for cooking them. 
 The Indians behaved in the most peaceable man- 
 ner, and freely bartered with us such other pro- 
 visions as they could spare. A few miles below 
 the Wallah Wallah the land on the south side 
 rises into rocky cliffs, near two hundred feet 
 high, which extend some distance inland. There 
 is a long and very dangerous rapid at their base, 
 which, by way of pre-eminence, the Canadians 
 call the Orande Rapide. We landed on the 
 south side, up which the canoes were dragged 
 with great difficulty. We observed immense 
 numbers of rattlesnakes here, basking in the sun, 
 and under the rocks, several of which we killed. 
 Half a dozen of us fired together at a batch 
 lying under one rock, and killed or wounded 
 
 -tt 
 
EXPEDITION. 
 
 131 
 
 B disease, 
 ed by tbe 
 
 befell our 
 isequently 
 r damaged 
 rded, and 
 fiver until 
 nerally en- 
 iver; pur- 
 ; and were 
 king them, 
 leable man- 
 . other pro- 
 niles below 
 
 south side 
 indred feet 
 nd. There 
 t their base, 
 } Canadians 
 ded on the 
 
 ere dragged 
 
 3d immense 
 in the sun, 
 
 ;h we killed, 
 at a batch 
 
 or wounded 
 
 thirty-seven I Our guns were charged with 
 goose shot. There was scarcely a stone in this 
 plat ^ which was not covered with them. All 
 the time we walked we were constantly on the 
 qui vive ; and I need not say, picked our steps 
 very cautiously. From the friendly character of 
 the natives, we had thrown by our armour for 
 some days, which relieved us greatly ; the heat, 
 while we were obliged to wear it, being almost 
 insupportable. Above this rocky eminence the 
 country opened again into an extended plain. 
 The river here, and for several miles lower 
 down, is occasionally bordered with strag^ Jng 
 clusters of willow, cotton wood, stunted red 
 cedar, and sumach, with quantities of sarsapa- 
 rilla. There is also abundance of furze bushes 
 and wormwood, through which we observed 
 several hares running, some of which we killed. 
 
 In the evening we encamped at the entrance 
 of the Wallah Wallah river : a number of that 
 tribe visited us, and remained for some time 
 smoking. We informed Tamtappam, their chief, 
 that we. wanted good horses fit to carry luggage, 
 and others to eat, and requested he would pro- 
 cure for us as many as he could the following day : 
 this he promised to do, and departed. 
 
 On the 29th we purchased twenty horses for 
 
 K 2 
 
\32 
 
 THE WALLAH WALLAH. 
 
 Mr. Robert Stuart's party ; which being deemed 
 sufficient for them, he, with Messrs. Crooks and 
 M'Lellan, and eight men, left us the next 
 morning, under a salute of three cheers, to pur- 
 sue their dangerous journey across the moun- 
 tains, and thence by the Missouri to St. Louis. 
 The Wallah Wallahs were decidedly the most 
 friendly tribe we had seen on the river : they 
 had an air of open unsuspecting confidence in 
 their manner that at once banished suspicion, 
 and insured our friendship. There was a degree 
 of natural politeness, too, evinced by them on 
 ent?ring their lodges, which we did not see 
 practised by any others. We visited several 
 families in the village ; and the moment we 
 entered, the best place was selected for us, and a 
 clean mat spread to sit on ; while the inmates, 
 particularly the women and the children, re- 
 mained at a respectful distance, without mani- 
 festing any of the obstrusive curiosity about our 
 arms or clothing by which we were so much an- 
 noyed amongst the lower tribes. The females, 
 also, were distinguished by a degree of attentive 
 kindness, totally removed from the disgusting fa- 
 miliarity of the kilted ladies below the rapids, and 
 equally free from an affectation of prudery : pros- 
 titution is unknown among them j and I believe 
 
THE WALLAH WALLAH. 
 
 133 
 
 no inducement would tempt them to commit a 
 breach of chastity. 
 
 The Wallah Wallah is a bold, rapid stream, 
 about fifty-five yards wide, and upwards of six 
 feet deep : the water is clear, and rolls over a 
 bed of sand and gravel. On the 3 1st we moved 
 up to the north side of the mouth of Lewis 
 River, which is about fourteen miles above the 
 Wallah Wallah : its course is nearly due west, 
 and at its junction with the Columbia it is up- 
 wards of six hunJred yards wide. The current 
 is very rapid ; its waters deep, whitish, and 
 slightly tepid, in which respect it forms a marked 
 contrast to the Columbia, the waters of which 
 are quite clear and cool : the latter river at this 
 place is upwards of one thousand yards wide, 
 and the current descends at an even rate of about 
 four miles an hour. A little below the junction, 
 however, it widens from a mile to a mile and a 
 half, and has several islands, two of which are 
 low and sandy, and are nearly ^three miles in 
 length. B3I0W these islands, a range of high 
 hills are seen on each side of the river, running 
 nearly from S. W. to N. E., and uncovered by any 
 timber : but at an immense distance, in a south- 
 easterly direction, a chain of high craggy moun- 
 tains are visible, from which it is supposed the 
 
131. 
 
 THE PIEUCED-NOSE INDIANS. 
 
 ( t 
 
 1 
 
 Wallah Wallah takes its rise. From their colour 
 the Canadians called this chain Les Montagnes 
 Bleues. The banks of both rivers at their junc- 
 tion are low with a gentle rise on each side. The 
 plains are covered with immense quantities of 
 prickly pear, which was a source of great annoy- 
 ance. Above Lewis River the Columbia runs in 
 a northerly direction : below it in a westerly. 
 We remained here three days purchasing horses 
 for our journey inland. Mr. David Stuart and 
 party proceeded in their canoes up the Columbia 
 to the trading establishment which he had formed 
 at Oakinagan river, which falls into the Colum- 
 bia, from the northward, about two hundred and 
 eighty miles above this place. Mr. Donald 
 M'Kenzie and his party proceeded up Lewis 
 River in order to establish a trading post on the 
 upper parts of it, or in the country of the Snake 
 Indians ; his choice to be regulated according to 
 the appearance of beaver in either place. The 
 natives of this district are called the Pierced- 
 nose Indians ; but as French is the language in 
 general use among traders in this country, owing 
 to most part of their working men being Cana- 
 dians, we commonly called them Les Nez Perch, 
 They do not diflPer much from the Wallah Wal- 
 lahs in their dress or language, but are not so 
 
 i ) 
 
 \i 
 
INDIAN CLOTHING. 
 
 135 
 
 friendly, and demand higher prices for their 
 horses. Their habitations are covered with large 
 mats, fixed on poles: iome are square, others 
 oblong, and some conical : they are of various 
 sizes, from twenty to seventy feet long, and 
 from ten to fifteen feet broad. There are no 
 interior divisioni, and an opening in the top 
 serves the double purpose of a window and 
 chimney. These dwellings are pretty free from 
 vermin, and are easily changed whei: occasion 
 requires. The women wear leathern lo'ies, 
 which cover the shoulders, part of the arms, the 
 breast, and reach down to their legs. The men 
 have robes nearly similar, but not so long, with 
 leggings which reach up half the thigh> and are 
 fastened to a belt round the waist by leathern 
 thongs. They are clean, active, and smart-look- 
 ing, good hunters, and excellent horsemen. 
 They enjoy good health, and with the exception 
 of a few sore eyes, did not appear to have any 
 disorder. They are fond of their children, and 
 attentive to the wants of their old people. Their 
 saddles are made of dressed deer-skin stuffed 
 with hair: the stirrups are wooden, with the 
 bottom broad and fiat, and covered over with 
 raw skin, which when dry becomes hard, and 
 lasts a long time. The bridles are merely ropes 
 
h 
 
 130 
 
 LEWIS UIVER. 
 
 made out of the hair of the horses' tails, and are 
 tied round their under jaw. The women ride 
 like the men : their saddles are high in front and 
 rear, and formed something- like the humps on a 
 camel's back j and they must bring their horses 
 to a rock or old tree to enable them to mount. 
 The men are hard and unfeeling riders : the rope 
 bridles cut the corners of the poor horses* 
 mouths; and the saddles generally leave their 
 backs quite raw : yet in this state they ride them 
 for several days successively without the least 
 pity for the tortured animals. We got plenty of 
 salmon while we remained here, and some lam- 
 prey eels, the latter of which were oily and very 
 strong. Having purchased twenty-five horses, 
 we took our departure on the 3rd of August, 
 and proceeded up Lewis River ; some on land 
 with the horses, but the greater part still in the 
 canoes. The water was very high, and rapid, 
 and in many places the banks steep and shelving, 
 which made the process of dragging up the ca- 
 noes very difficult. Poling was quite impossible ; 
 for on the off, or outer side, the men could not 
 find bottom with their poles. I remained on 
 shore part of the time with the horses. In some 
 places the path wound along the almost perpen- 
 dicular declivities of high hills on the banks of 
 
DANGEllOUS PASS. 
 
 137 
 
 inJ are 
 en ride 
 mt and 
 ps on a 
 : horses 
 mount, 
 he rope 
 horses* 
 re their 
 ie them 
 he least 
 ilenty of 
 me 1am- 
 md very 
 horses, 
 August, 
 on land 
 ll in the 
 d rapid, 
 ihelving, 
 the ca- 
 )ossible ; 
 ;ould not 
 lined on 
 In some 
 perpen- 
 banks of 
 
 the river, and was barely wide enough for one 
 horse at a time. Yet along these dangerous 
 roads the Indians galloped with the utmost com- 
 posure ; while one false step would have hurled 
 them down a precipice of three hundred feet into 
 the torrent below. Even walking along these 
 dangerous declivities, leading my horse, I ex- 
 perienced an indescribable sensation of dread on 
 looking down the frightful abyss. 
 
 On the 7tb we reached a small stream which 
 falls into Lewis River from the north : the moulL 
 is wide, and forms a kind of semicircular bay, 
 but suddenly narrows to about ten or twelve 
 yards. A village of about forty mat-covered 
 tents was situated at its junction with the main 
 river. The inhabitants were busily employed 
 in catching and drying salmon for their winter 
 and spring stock ; and as it was here we intended 
 to leave the canoes and proceed to our destination 
 by land, we encamped on the west side of the 
 little bay, and immediately commenced a trade 
 with the natives for horses. This place is not 
 more than fifty miles from the Columbia j but 
 owing to the rapidity of the current, and the 
 many rapids with which it was interrupted, our 
 progress was slow. The business of collecting 
 and catching the horses, which generally occu- 
 
I 
 
 138 
 
 THE PUICKI-Y PEAK. 
 
 
 
 ( 
 
 t 
 
 pied until eleven or twelve o'clock each day, 
 also contributed to cause this delay. With the 
 exception of small willow and cotton wood, there 
 are no trees from the Columbia upwards. The 
 ground is covered with loose grass, and abounds 
 in great quantities of the prickly pear, the thorns 
 of which are remarkably sharp, and strong 
 enough to penetrate the leather of the thickest 
 moccasins. , 
 
 On the third day, while riding a short distance 
 ahead of the men, my horse happened to stand 
 on a bunch of the prickly pears, which pained 
 him so much that he commenced plunging and 
 kicking, and ultimately threw me into a cluster 
 of them. My face, neck, and body, were severely 
 pierced ; and every effort to rise only increased 
 the painfulness of my situation, for wherever I 
 placed my hands to assist in raising my body they 
 came in contact with the same tormenting thorns. 
 In fact I could not move an inch ; and to add to 
 my disaster, I observed three rattlesnakes within 
 a few feet of my head. The men who were in 
 the rear driving the horses, hearing my cries, 
 quickly came to my assistance, and with con- 
 siderable difficulty disentangled me from my 
 painful situation : the snakes in the mean time 
 had disappeared. I immediately hailed the ca- 
 
THEFTS. 
 
 131) 
 
 noes, and resumed my old place on board, firmly 
 resolved never again to ride while a prickly pear 
 was visible. 
 
 The inhabitants of this fishing village were 
 part of the Pierced-nose Indians. We remained 
 here seven days, endeavouring to cotiplete our 
 number of horses, which we at lengtli effected. 
 The natives were hard to deal with, and wo had 
 to raise our prices. Several trifling artitles weic 
 stolen from us, which the chief promise to re- 
 cover -f but he either made no attempt, or the 
 means he used were ineffectual. He apologised 
 for his want of success by saying that the thieves 
 belonged to another tribe higher up the river, 
 and that they had departed with the stolen pro- 
 perty. In their dress, language, and dwellings 
 these people differed little from those at the 
 mouth of Lewis River. On the evening of the 
 14th we laid up our bateaux and canoes in a 
 snug spot covered with willow and I'^ose shrubs, 
 and recommended them to the care uf the chief, 
 who promised that they should be carefully pre- 
 served until our return the tbllowing spring. 
 We made him a present oi a fathom of blue cloth, 
 an axe, and a knife : to his wife we gave a few 
 strings of white and blue beads, and three dozen 
 of hawk-bells for her chemise de cuir; and 
 
' 
 
 
 ■I'i 
 
 .' V 
 
 \ i 
 
 [I t 
 
 140 
 
 SPOKAN INDIANS. 
 
 among the remainder we distributed a few heads 
 of leaf-tobacco. 
 
 We purchased altogether fifty horses to carry 
 the goods and baggage ; and from the difficulty 
 we experienced in procuring that number, we 
 were not able to obtain enough for our own use. 
 M*Lennan and I, however, succeeded in pur- 
 chasing one for our joint use ; and Farnham and 
 Fillet got another. The men also obtained a few 
 which occasionally served to relieve them in the 
 progress of their journey. Our destination was 
 fixed for the Spokan tribe of Indians, whose lands 
 lay about one hundred and fifty miles from Lewis 
 River in a north-east direction, and among whom 
 we were given to understand the North-west 
 Company had already established a trading post 
 from the east side of the Rocky Mountains. We 
 also engaged an Indian guide to conduct us to 
 the Spokan lands. 
 
 On the 15th of August, at five a. m., we took 
 our departure from Lewis River. Our party con- 
 sisted of one proprietor, four clerks, twenty-one 
 Canadians, and six Sandwich islanders, with the 
 Indian guide. We proceeded nearly due north 
 along the banks of the small river for some miles 
 through an open plain, which was bounded by a 
 range of steep rugged hills, running from the 
 
PLEASANT HALT. 
 
 141 
 
 westward over which we had to cross. In some 
 places the path led over steep and slippery rocks, 
 and was so narrow, that the horses which were 
 loaded with large bales could not pass without 
 running the risk of falling down the craggy pre- 
 cipices ; and the men were obliged to unload 
 them and place the bales singly on the top of the 
 pack saddles. After we had passed as we ima- 
 gined the most dangerous part of the pathway, 
 and had commenced our descent into the plain, 
 one of the horses missed his footing, and rolled 
 down a declivity of two hundred feet, loaded 
 with two cases of axes : the cases were broken, 
 and their contents scattered about the rocks ; 
 but, with the exception of his sides, the skin of 
 which was scraped off, the horse received no 
 material injury. We arrived on the north side 
 of these hills about eleven o'clock, when we 
 stopped to breakfast on the banks of the river, 
 which here turns to the eastward. We resumed 
 our journey at two o'clock, and suffered severely 
 during the day, from the intense heat, and the 
 want of water. The country was a continued 
 plain, with sandy and rocky bottom, mixed with 
 loose tufts of grass. About seven in the evening 
 we reached a cool stream, on the banks of which 
 were a profusion of wild cherries, currants, and 
 
\' 
 
 fc J 
 
 142 
 
 INDIAN PUKCISION. 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 blackberries, which afforded us an unexpected 
 and welcome treat. We encamped here for the 
 night ; and did not hobble the horses,* as we 
 were certain the luxurious herbage of the prairie 
 would prevent them from wandering. 
 
 At four A. M. on the l6th we set off from our 
 encampment, still pursuing a northerly course. 
 The country still champaign, and the grass long 
 and coarse, but loosely imbedded in a sandy soil. 
 About eight we came to a fine spring, at which 
 we breakfasted, as our guide told us we should 
 not find water beyond it for a great distance. 
 After waiting here a few hours, we reloaded, 
 and pursued our journey in the same direction. 
 During the remainder of the day no " green spot 
 bloomed on the desert" around us. The country 
 was completely denuded of wood ; and as far as 
 the eye extended, nothing was visible but im- 
 mense plains covered with parched brown grass, 
 swarming with rattlesnakes. The horses suffered 
 dreadfully, as well as their masters, from heat 
 and thirst. Two fine pointers belonging to Mr. 
 Clarke were so exhausted that we were com- 
 pelled to leave them behind, and never saw them 
 
 * When we were apprehensive that the horses might wander 
 from an encampment, their two fore legs were tied together. 
 This we called hohhling. 
 
INDIAN illECISION. 
 
 14. J 
 
 Bxpected 
 e for the 
 
 i,» as we 
 e prairie 
 
 from our 
 y course, 
 rass long 
 indy soil, 
 at which 
 we should 
 distance, 
 reloaded, 
 direction, 
 green spot 
 he country 
 id as far as 
 e but im- 
 own grass, 
 ses suffered 
 from heat 
 ing to Mr. 
 were coni- 
 r saw them 
 
 afterwards. Several of the horses being on the 
 point of giving up, and numbers of 'th@ men 
 scarcely able to walk, Mr. Clarke sharply ques- 
 tioned the guide as to his knowledge of the 
 country, and the probable time we might expect 
 to fall in with water : the latter saw his doubts, 
 and calmly replied, pointing to the sun, that 
 when it should have gained a certain distance 
 we might expect relief. We knew half an hour 
 would not elapse before it should attain the de- 
 sired point, and every watch was out to judge of 
 the Indian's accuracy. He was right } and about 
 half-past five p. m. we reached a small stream, 
 by the side of which we encamped for the night. 
 The guide gave us to understand we should find 
 plenty of water the following day. 
 
 might wander 
 tied together. 
 
144 
 
 JOURNEY CONTINUED. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 t 
 
 ■I ' *, i 
 ] 
 
 K 
 
 
 I \ 
 
 .' >'' 
 
 Author loses the party — Curious adventures, and surprising 
 escapes from serpents and wild beasts during fourteen days 
 in a wilderness — Meets with Indians, by whom he is hospi- 
 tably received, and conducted to his friends. 
 
 On the lyth of August we left our encampment 
 a little after four a. m. During the forenoon the 
 sun was intensely hot. Occasional bright green 
 patches, intermixed with wild flovvers, and gently 
 rising eminences, partially covered with clumps 
 of small trees, gave an agreeable variety to the 
 face of the country j which we enjoyed the more, 
 from the scorched and sterile uniformity of the 
 plains through which we had passed on the two 
 preceding days. We got no water, however, 
 until twelve o'clock, when we arrived in a small 
 valley of the most delightul verdure, through 
 which ran a clear stream from the northward, 
 over a pebbly bottom. The horses were imme- 
 diately turned loose to regale themselves in the 
 rich pasture ; and as it was full of red and white 
 clover, orders were given not to catch them 
 until two o'clock, by which time we thought 
 
AUTHOR LOS'ES THE I'AIITY. 
 
 115 
 
 they would be sufficiently refreshed for the even- 
 ing's journey. ' ■- V .' ! 
 
 After walking and riding eight hours, I need 
 not say we made a hearty breakfast ; after which 
 I wandered some distance along the banks of the 
 rivulet in search of cherries, and came to a sweet 
 little arbour formed by sumach and cherry trees. 
 I pulled a quantity of the fruit, and sat down in 
 the retreat to enjoy its refreshing cooL ^ss. It was 
 a charming spot, and on the opposite bank was 
 a delightful wilderness of crimson haw, honey- 
 suckles, wild roses, and currants : its resemblance 
 to a friend's summer-house in which I had spent 
 many happy days, brought back home with all its 
 endearing recollections ; and my scattered thoughts 
 were successively occupied with the past, the pre- 
 sent, and the future. In this state I fell into a 
 kind of pleasing, soothing reverie, which, joined 
 to the morning's fatigue, gradually sealed my eye- 
 lids f and unconscious of my situation, I resigned 
 myself to the influence of the drowsy god. But 
 imagine my feelings when I awoke in the evening, 
 I think it was about five o'clock, from the declin- 
 ing appearance of the sun I All was calm and 
 silent as the grave. I hastened to the spot where 
 we had breakfasted : it was vacant. I ran to the 
 place where the men had made their fire : all, all 
 
 VOL. I. L 
 
14G 
 
 DESTITUTE SITUATION. 
 
 r^ ;i 
 
 'II J 
 
 ^ , 
 
 
 were gone, and not a vestige of man or horse ap- 
 peared in the valley. My senses almost failed me. 
 I called out, in vain, in every direction, until I 
 became hoarse ; and I could no longer conceal 
 from myself the dreadful truth that I was alone 
 in a wild, uninhabited country, without horse or 
 arms, and destitute of covering. 
 
 Having now no resource but to ascertain the 
 direction which the party had taken, I set about 
 exami: ingthe ground, and at the north-east point 
 of the valley discovered the tracks of horses* feet, 
 which I followed for some time, and which led 
 to a chain of small hills with a rocky, gravelly 
 bottom, on which the hoofs made no impression. 
 Having thus lost the tracks, I ascended the 
 highest of the hills, from which I had an extended 
 view of many miles around ; but saw no sign of 
 the party, or the least indication of human habi- 
 tations. The evening was now closing fast, and 
 with the approach of night a heavy dew com- 
 menced falling. The whole of my clothes con- 
 sisted merely of a gingham shirt, nankeen trow- 
 sers, and a pair of light leather m.occ&,sins, much 
 worn. About an hour before breakfast, in con. 
 sequence of the heat, I had taken off my coat 
 and placed it on one of the loaded horses, intend- 
 ing to put it on towards the cool of the evening ; 
 
VIEW OF HOKSEiMEN. 
 
 117 
 
 and one of the men had charge of my fowling- 
 piece. I was even without my hat ; for in the 
 agitated state of my mind on awaking I had left 
 it behind, and had advanced too far to think of 
 returning for it. At some distance on my left 
 I observed a field of high, strong grass, to which 
 I proceeded ; and after pulling enough to place 
 under and over me, I recommended myself to 
 the Almighty, and fell asleep. During the night 
 confused dreams of warm houses, feather beds, 
 poisoned arrows, prickly pears, and rattlesnakes, 
 haunted my disturbed imagination. 
 
 On the 18th I arose with the sun, quite wet 
 and chilly, the heavy dew having completely 
 saturated my flimsy covering, and proceeded in 
 an easterly direction, nearly parallel with the 
 chain of hills. In the course of the day I passed 
 several small lakes full of wild fowl. The general 
 appearance of the country was flat, the soil light 
 and gravelly, and covered with the same loose 
 grass already mentioned ; great quantities of it 
 had been recently burned by the Indians in hunt- 
 ing the deer, the stubble of which annoyed my 
 feet very much. I had turned into a northerly 
 course, where, late in the evening, I observed, 
 about a mile distant, two horsemen galloping in 
 an easterly direction. From their dresses I knew 
 
 L Q 
 
;l 
 
 148 
 
 FORTUNATE ESCAPE. 
 
 J 1^ 
 
 1 
 
 (I 
 
 
 1 i 
 
 \ I 
 
 ' ! : 
 
 5 >] 
 
 they belonged to oar party. I instantly ran to a 
 hillock, and called out in a voice to which hunger 
 had imparted a supernatural shrillness ; but they 
 galloped on. I then took off my shirt, which I 
 waved in a conspicuous manner over my head, 
 accompanied by the most frantic cries j still they 
 continued on. I ran towards the direction they 
 were galloping, despair adding wings to my flight. 
 Rocks, stubble, and brushwood were passed with 
 the speed of a hunted antelope — but to no pur- 
 pose ; for on arriving at the place where I ima- 
 gined a pathway would have brought me into 
 their track, I was completely at fault. It was 
 now nearly dark. I had eaten nothing since the 
 noon of the preceding day ; and, faint with hunger 
 and fatigue, threw myself on the grass, when I 
 heard a small rustling noise behind me. I turned 
 round, and, with horror, beheld a large rattle- 
 snake cooling himself in the evening shade. I' 
 instantly retreated, on observing which he coiled 
 himself. Having obtained a large stone, I ad- 
 vanced slowly on him, and taking a proper aim, 
 dashed it with all my force on the reptile's head, 
 which I buried in the ground beneath the stone. 
 The late race had completely worn out the 
 thin soles of my moccasins, and my feet in con- 
 sequence became much swoln. As night ad- 
 
 >■.■, . 
 
KXTRKMIfi PHIVATIONS. 
 
 149 
 
 ntly ran to a 
 hich hunger 
 88 ; but they 
 lirt, which I 
 ^er my head, 
 69 ; still they 
 lirection they 
 s to my flight, 
 e passed with 
 »ut to no pur- 
 where I inia- 
 ught me into 
 fault. It was 
 thing since the 
 it with hunger 
 grass, when I 
 me. I turned 
 a large rattle- 
 ling shade. I* 
 rhich he coiled 
 ^e stone, I ad- 
 • a proper aim, 
 reptile's head, 
 Bath the stone, 
 worn out the 
 my feet in con- 
 As night ad- 
 
 vanced, I was obligad to look out for a place 
 to sleep, and, after some time, selected nearly as 
 good a bed as the one I had the first night. My 
 exertions in pulling the long, coarse grass nearly 
 rendered my hands uieleis by severely cutting 
 all the joints of the fin gen. 
 
 I rose before the sun on the morning of the 
 19th, and pursued an easterly course all the day. 
 I at first felt very hungry, but after walking a few 
 miles, and taking a drink of water, I got a little 
 refreshed. The general appearance of the coun- 
 try was still flat, with burned grass, and sandy 
 soil, which blistered my feet. The scorching 
 influence of the sun obliged me to stop for some 
 hours in the day ; during which I made several 
 ineffectual attempts to construct a covering for 
 my head. At times I thought my brain was on 
 fire from the dreadful effects of the heat. I got 
 no fruit those two days, and towards evening felt 
 very weak from the want of nourishment, having 
 been forty-eight hours without food ; and to make 
 my situation more annoying, 1 slept that evening 
 on the banks of a pretty lake, the inhabitants of 
 which would have done honour to a royal table. 
 With what an evil ey^ and a murderous heart did 
 I regard the stately goose and the plump waddling 
 duck as they sported on the water, unconscious of 
 

 ■ !' 
 
 I f 
 
 ( i 
 
 I 
 
 ! \ 
 
 V !! 
 
 fl 
 
 IJO 
 
 HUNGKIl AND TIIIRS'T. 
 
 my presence I Even with a pocket pistol I could 
 have done execution among them. The state of 
 my fingers prevented me from obtaining the 
 covering of grass which I had the two preceding 
 nights : and on this evening I had no shelter 
 whatever io protect me from the heavy dew. 
 
 On the following day, the 20th, my course was 
 nearly north-east, and lay through a country more 
 diversified by wood and water. I saw plenty of 
 wild geese, ducks, cranes, curlews, and sparrows, 
 also some hawks and cormorants, and at a dis- 
 tance about fifteen or twenty small deer. The 
 wood consisted of pine, birch, cedar, wild cherries, 
 hawthorn, sweet- willow, honeysuckle, andsumach. 
 The rattlesnakes were very numerous this day, 
 with horned lizards, and grasshoppers ; the latter 
 kept me in a constant state of feverish alarm from 
 the similarity of the noise made by their wings to 
 the sound of the rattles of the snake when pre- 
 paring to dart on its prey. I suffered severely 
 during the day from hunger, and was obliged to 
 chew grass occasionally, which allayed it a little. 
 Late in the evening I arrived at a lake upwards of 
 two miles long, and a mile broad, the shores of 
 which were high, and well wooded with large 
 pine, spruce, and birch. It was fed by two rivu- 
 lets, from the north, and north-east, in which 
 
 ft M 
 
MIDNIGHT SERENADE. 
 
 1^1 
 
 I observed a quantity of small fish ^ but had no 
 means of catching any, or 1 should have made a 
 Sandwich'island meal. There was however an 
 abundant supply of wild cherries, on which I made 
 a hearty supper. I slept on the bank of the 
 nearest stream, just where it entered th6 lake j but 
 during the night the howling of wolves and growl- 
 ing of bears broke in terribly on my slumbers, and 
 "balmy sleep" was almost banished from my eye- 
 lids. On rising the next morning, the Slst, I 
 observed on the opposite bank at the mouth of the 
 river, the entrance of a large and apparently 
 deep cavern, from which I judged some of the 
 preceding night's music had issued. I now de- 
 termined to make short journies for two or three 
 days in different directions, in the hope of falling 
 on some fresh horse-tracks ; and in the event of 
 being unsuccessful, to return each night to the 
 lake, where I was at least certain of procuring 
 cherries and water sufficient to sustain nature. 
 In pursuance of this resolution I set out early in 
 a southerly direction from the head of the lake, 
 through a. wild, barren country, without any 
 water or vegetation, save loose tufts of grass like 
 those already described. I had armed myself 
 with a long stick, with which during the day 
 I killed several rattlesnakes. Having discovered 
 
15*2 
 
 ATTACK ON A WOLF. 
 
 u 
 
 no fresh trucks, I returned late in the evening 
 hungry and thirsty, and took possession of my 
 berth of the preceding night. I collected a heap 
 of stones from the water side ; and just as I was 
 lying down observed a wolf emerge from the 
 opposite cavern, and thinking it safer to act on 
 the offensive, lest he should Imagine I was afraid, 
 I threw some stones at him, on? of which struck 
 him on the leg : he retired yelling into his den ; 
 and after waiting some time in fearful suspense 
 to see if he would re-appear, I threw myself on 
 the ground, and fell asleep ; but, like the night 
 before, it was broken by the same unsocial noise 
 and for upwards of two hours I sat up waiting 
 in anxious expectation the return of day-light. 
 The vapours from the lake, joined to the heavy 
 dew, had penetrated my frail covering of ging- 
 ham ; but as the sun rose, I took it off, and 
 stretched it on a rock, where it quickly dried. 
 My excursion to the southward having proved 
 abortive, I now resolved to try the east, and 
 after eating my simple breakfast, proceeded in 
 that direction ; and on crossing the two small 
 streams, had to penetrate a country full of ** dark 
 woods and rankling wilds,'* through which, 
 owing to the immense quantities of underwood, 
 my progress was slow. My feet too were un- 
 
 .'. i 
 
NOCTURNAL SEHENADK. 
 
 153 
 
 covered, and, from the the thorns of the various 
 prickly plants, were much lacerated, in conse- 
 quence'of which, on returning to mylatebivouack, 
 I was obliged to shorten the legs of my trowsers 
 to procure bandages for them. The wolf did 
 not make his appearance ; but during the night 
 I got occasional starts, from several uf his bre- 
 thren of the forest. 
 
 I anticipated the rising of the sun on the 
 morning of the 23rd, and having been unsuc- 
 cessful the two preceding days, determined to 
 shape my course due north, and if possible not 
 return again to the lake. During the day I 
 skirted the wood, and fell on some old tracks, 
 which revived my hopes a little. The country 
 to the westward was chiefly plains covered with 
 parched grass, and occasionally enlivened by 
 savannahs of refreshing green, full of wild flowers 
 and aromatic herbs, among which the bee and 
 humming bird banqueted. I slept this evening 
 by a small brook, where I collected cherries and 
 haws enough to make a hearty supper. I was 
 obliged to make farther encroachments on the 
 legs of my trowsers for fresh bandages for my 
 feet. During the night I was serenaded by 
 music which did not resemble " a concord of 
 most sweet sounds ; '* in which the grumbling 
 
t 
 
 : 
 
 
 1 
 
 \.i 
 
 ■j 
 
 151 
 
 MIDNIGHT WATCHINGS. 
 
 bass of the bears was at times drowned by the 
 less pleasing sharps of the wolves. I partially 
 covered my body this night with some pieces of 
 pine bark which I stripped off a sapless tree. • ^ 
 The country through which 1 dragged my 
 tired limbs on the 24th was thinly wooded. My 
 course was north and north east. I suffered 
 much from want of water, having got during the 
 day only two tepid and nauseous draughts from 
 stagnant pools, which the long drought had 
 nearly dried up. About sunset I arrived at -a 
 small stream, by the side of which I took up my 
 quarters for the night. The dew fell heavily ; 
 but I was too much fatigued to go in quest of 
 bark to cover me ; and even had I been so in- 
 clined, the howling of the wolves would have 
 deterred me from making the dangerous attempt. 
 There must have been an extraordinary nursery 
 of these animals close to the spot j for between 
 the weak, shrill cries of the young, and the more 
 loud and dreadful howling of the old, I never 
 expected to leave the place alive. I could not 
 sleep. My only weapons of defence were a heap 
 of stones and a stick. Ever and anon some 
 more daring than others approached me. I pre- 
 sented the stick at them as if in the act of level- 
 ling a gun, upon which they retired, vented a 
 
 ,( 
 
i 
 
 DISPUTED PASSAGE. 
 
 155 
 
 not 
 
 H 
 
 few yells, advanced a little farther, and after 
 surveying me for some time with their sharp, 
 fiery eyes, to which the partial glimpses of the 
 moon had imparted additional ferocity, retreated 
 into the wood. In this state of fearful agitation 
 I passed the night ; but as day-light began to 
 break. Nature asserted her supremacy, and I fell 
 into a deep sleep, from which, to judge by the 
 sun^ I did not awake until between eight and 
 nine o'clock on the morning of the 25th. My 
 second bandages having been worn out, I was 
 now obliged to bare my knees for fresh ones ; 
 and after tying them round my feet, and taking 
 a copious draught from the adjoining brook for 
 breakfast, I recommenced my joyless journey. 
 My course was nearly north-north-east. I got 
 no water during the day, nor any of the wild 
 cherries. Some slight traces of men's feet, and 
 a few old horse tracks occasionally crossed my 
 path ; they proved that human beings sometimes 
 at least visited that part of the country, and for 
 a moment served to cheer my drooping spirits. 
 
 About dusk an immense-sized wolf rushed out 
 of a thick copse a short distance from the path- 
 way, planted himself directly before me, in a 
 threatening position, and appeared determined 
 to dispute my passage. He was not niore than 
 

 15G 
 
 AKXWBAT OIL THE WOLF. 
 
 tvtrenty feet from me. My situation was despe- 
 rate, and as I knew that the least symptom of 
 fear would be the signal for attack, I presented 
 my stick, and shouted as loud as my weak voice 
 would permit. He appeared somewhat startled, 
 and retreated a few steps, still keeping his 
 piercing eyes firmly fixed on me. I advanced a 
 little, when he commenced hor/Mng in a most ap- 
 palling manner ; and supposing his intention was 
 to collect a few of his comrades to assist in 
 makin^; an afternoon repast on my half- famished 
 carcass, I redoubled my cries, until I had almost 
 lost the power of utterance, at the same time 
 calling out various names, thinking I might 
 make it appear I was not alone. An old and a 
 young lynx ran close past me, but did not stop. 
 The wolf remained about fifteen minutes in the 
 same position ; but whether my wild and fearful 
 exclamations deterred any others from joining 
 him, I cannot say. Finding at length my deter- 
 mination not to flinch, and that no assistance was 
 likely to come, he retreated into the wood, and 
 disappeared in the surrounding gloom. 
 
 The shades of night were now descending fast, 
 when I came to a verdant spot surrounded by 
 small trees, and full of rushes, which induced me 
 to hope for water j but after searching for some 
 
APPALLING SITUATION. 
 
 157 
 
 despe- 
 
 »tom of 
 
 esented 
 
 k voice 
 
 itartled, 
 
 ing his 
 
 anced a 
 
 nost ap- 
 
 ion was 
 
 ssist in 
 
 miished 
 
 [ almost 
 
 ae time 
 
 might 
 
 1 and a 
 
 3t stop. 
 
 3 in the 
 
 fearful 
 
 oining 
 
 deter- 
 
 ice was 
 
 d, and 
 
 ng fast, 
 ded by 
 ced me 
 r some 
 
 time, I was still doomed to bitter dignppoint- 
 ment. A shallow lake or pond hftd been there, 
 which the long drought and heat had dried up. 
 I then pulled a quantity of the rushes and spread 
 them at the foot of a large stone, which I in- 
 tended for my pillow ; but as I woi about throw- 
 ing myself down, a rattlesnake coiled, with the 
 head erect, and the forked tongue extended in a 
 state of frightful oscillation, caught luy eye im- 
 mediately under the stone. I instantly retreated 
 a short distance j but assuming freih courage, 
 soon dispatched it with my stick. On examining 
 the spot more minutely, a large cluster of them 
 appeared und )r the stone, the whole of which I 
 rooted out and destroyed. This was hardly ac- 
 complished when upwards of a dozen snakes of 
 different descriptions, chiefly dark brown, blue, 
 and green, made their appearance : they were 
 much quicker in their movements than their 
 rattle-tailed brethren j and I could only kill a 
 few of them. " 
 
 This was a peculiarly soul-trying moment. I 
 had tasted no fruit since the morning before, and 
 after a painful day's march under a burning sun, 
 could not procure a drop of water to allay my 
 feverish thirst. I was surrounde<i by a murder- 
 ous brood of serpents, and ferocious beasts of 
 
I 
 
 / ( 
 
 158 
 
 SEARCH FOll ATER. 
 
 prey, and without even the consolation of know- 
 ing* when such misery mig'ht have a probable 
 termination. I might truly say with the royal 
 psalmist that ** the snares of death compassed me 
 roundabout." 
 
 Having collected a fresh supply of rushes, 
 which I spread some distance from the spot 
 where I massacred the reptiles, I threw myself 
 on them, and was permitted through divine good- 
 ness to enjoy a night of undisturbed repose. 
 
 I arose on the morning of the 26th considerably 
 refreshed ; and took a northerly course, occa- 
 sionally diverging a little to the east. Several 
 times during the day, I was induced to leave the 
 path by the appearance of the rushes, which I ima- 
 gined grew in the vicinity of lakes ; but on 
 reaching them my faint hopes vanished : there 
 was no water, and I in vain essayed to extract a 
 little moisture from them. Prickly thorns and 
 small sharp stones added greatly to the pain of 
 my tortured feet, and obliged me to make farther 
 encroachments on my nether garments for fresh 
 bandages. The want of water now rendered me 
 extremely weak and feverish ; and 1 had nearly 
 abandoned all hopes of relief, when, about half- 
 past four or five o'clock, the old pathway turned 
 from the prairie grounds into a thickly wood*d 
 
n 
 
 UNPLEASANT INTllUSrON. 
 
 159 
 
 know- 
 robable 
 ; royal 
 ised me 
 
 rushes, 
 lie spot 
 r myself 
 le good- 
 3se. 
 
 iderably 
 e, occa- 
 Several 
 eave the 
 h I inia- 
 but on 
 I : there 
 xtract a 
 rns and 
 pain of 
 le farther 
 or fresh 
 ered me 
 nearly 
 ut half- 
 turned 
 wooded 
 
 country, in an easterly direction ; through which 
 I had not advanced half a mile when I heard a 
 noise resembling a waterfall, to which I hastened 
 my tottering steps, and in a few minutes was de- 
 lighted at arriving on the banks of a deep and 
 narrow rivulet, which forced its way with great 
 rapidity over some large stones that obstructed 
 the channel. 
 
 After offering up a short prayer of thanksgiv- 
 ing for this providential supply, I threw myself 
 into the water, forgetful of the extreme state of 
 exhaustion to which I was reduced : it had 
 nearly proved fatal, for my weak frame could not 
 withstand the strength of the current, which 
 force ? me down a short distance, until I caught 
 the bough of an overhanging tree, by means of 
 which I regained the shore. Here were plenty 
 of hips and cherries ; on which, with the water, 
 I made a most delicious repast. On looking 
 about for a place to fleep, I observed lying on 
 the ground the hollow trunk of a large pine, 
 which had been destroyed by lightning. I re- 
 treated into the cavity ; and having covered my- 
 self completely with large pieces of loose bark, 
 quickly fell asleep. My repose was not of long 
 duration ; for at the end of about two hours, I 
 was awakened by the growling of a bear, which 
 
i 
 
 160 
 
 AWKWARD RENCONTRE. 
 
 1; 
 \ 
 
 I i 
 i ) 
 
 
 i 
 
 had removed part of the bark covering and was 
 leaning over me with his snout, hesitating as to 
 the means he should adopt to dislodge me ; the 
 narrow limits of the trunk which confined my 
 body preventing him from making the attack 
 with advantage. I instantly sprung up, seized 
 my stick, and uttered a loud cry, which startled 
 him, and caused him to recede a few steps ; 
 when he stopped, and turned about apparently 
 doubtful whether he would commence an attack. 
 He determined on an assault ; but feeling I had 
 not sufficient strength to meet such an unequal 
 enemy, I thought it prudent to retreat, and ac- 
 cordingly scrambled up an adjoining tree. My 
 flight gave fresh impulse to his courage, and he 
 commenced ascending after me. I succeeded 
 however in gaining a branch, which gave me a 
 decided advantage over him ; and from which I 
 was enabled to annoy his muzzle and claws in 
 such a manner wMth my stick as effectually to 
 check his progress. After scraping the bark some 
 time with rage and disappointment, he gave up 
 the tifky Li d retired to my late dormitory, of 
 which he took possession. The fear of falling 
 off, in case I was overcrmie by sleep, induced me 
 to make several attempts to descend ; but each 
 attempt aroused my uisine sentinel ; and after 
 
AGREEABLE DISCOVERY. 
 
 161 
 
 • and was 
 iting as to 
 J me; the 
 nfined my 
 the attack 
 up, seized 
 Ich startled 
 few steps ; 
 apparently 
 e an attack, 
 •eling I had 
 an unequal 
 3at, and ac- 
 y tree. My 
 rage, and he 
 succeeded 
 
 gave me a 
 om which I 
 nd claws in 
 ffectually to 
 lie bark some 
 L he gave up 
 ormltory, of 
 jar of falling 
 induced me 
 Id ; but each 
 ll; and after 
 
 many ineffectual efforts, I was obliged to remain 
 there during the rest of the night. I fixed my- . 
 self in that part of the trunk from which the 
 principle grand branches forked, and which pre- 
 vented me from falling during my fitful slumbers. 
 On the morning of the 27th, a little after sun- 
 rise, the bear quitted the trunk, shook himself, 
 " cast a longing, lingering look" towards me, and 
 slowly disappeared in search of his morning re- 
 past. After waiting some time, apprehensive of 
 his return, I descended and resumed my journey 
 through the woods in a north-north-east direc- 
 tion. In a few hours all my anxiety of the 
 preceding night was more than compensated 
 by falling in with a well-beaten horse-path, with 
 fresh traces on it, both of hoofs and human feet : 
 it lay through a clear open wood, in a north- 
 east course, in which I observed numbers of 
 small deer. About six in the evening, I arrived 
 at a spot where a party must have slept the 
 preceding night. Round the remains of a large 
 fire which was still burning were scattered seve- 
 ral half-picked bones of grouse, partridges and 
 ducks, all of which I collected with economi- 
 cal industry. After devouring the flesh I broil- 
 ed the bones. The whole scarcely sufficed to 
 give me a moderjite meal, but yet afforded a most 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 M 
 
 
f-^ 
 
 16<2 
 
 HOPE RENEWED. 
 
 w 
 
 seasonable relief to my famished body. I en- 
 joyed a comfortable sleep this night close to the 
 fire, uninterrupted by any nocturnal visitor. On 
 the morning of the S8th I set off with cheerful 
 spirits, fully impressed with the hope of a speedy 
 termination to my sufferings. My course was 
 northerly, and lay through a thick wood. Late 
 in the evening I arrived at a stagnant pool, from 
 which I merely moistened my lips ; and having 
 covered myself with some birch bark, slept by its 
 side. The bears and wolves occasionally serenad- 
 ed me during the night, but I did not see any of 
 them. I rose early on the morning of the 29th, 
 and followed the fresh traces all day through the 
 wood, nearly north-east by north. I observed 
 several deer, some of which came quite close to 
 me ; and in the evening I threw a stone at a 
 small animal resembling a hare, the leg of which 
 I broke. It ran away limping, but my feet were 
 too sore to permit me to follow it. I passed the 
 night by the side of a small stream, where I got 
 a sufficient supply of hips and cherries. A few 
 distant growls awoke me at intervals, but no ani- 
 mal appeared. On the SOth the path took a 
 more easterly turn, and the woods became thicker 
 and more gloomy. I had now nearly consumed 
 the remnant of my trowsers in bandages for my 
 
<'t 
 
 HUflfKUINOH ALLEVIATED. 
 
 163 
 
 dy. I en- 
 close to the 
 iBitor. On 
 ith cheerful 
 of a speedy 
 course was 
 v'ood. Late 
 [it pool, from 
 ; and having 
 
 t, slept by its 
 lally serenad- 
 tot see any of 
 r of the 29th, 
 through the 
 I observed 
 quite close to 
 a stone at a 
 ) leg of which 
 my feet were 
 I passed the 
 I, where I got 
 rries. A few 
 lis, but no ani- 
 path took a 
 lecame thicker 
 irly consumed 
 tndages for my 
 
 I 
 
 wretched fpet ; and with the exception of my 
 shirt, was almost nnkud. The horse-tracks every 
 moment appoarod morn fresh, and fed my hopes. 
 Late in tlie evening' I arrived at a spot where the 
 path branched off in different directions : one led 
 up rather a uteep hill» the other descended into a 
 valley, and the tracks on both were equally re- 
 cent. I took the higher : but after proceeding a 
 few hundred paces through a deep wood, which 
 appeared more dark from a thick foliage which 
 shut out the rayi of the sun, I returned appre- 
 hensive of not procuring water for my supper, 
 and descended the lower path. I had not ad- 
 vanced far when I imagined I heard the neigh- 
 ing of a horMe. I listened with breathless atten- 
 tion, and became convinced it was no illusion. A 
 few paces farther brought me in sight of several 
 of those noble animals sporting in a handsome 
 meadow, from which I was separated by a rapid 
 stream. With some difficulty I crossed over, and 
 ascended the opposite bank. One of the horses 
 approached mo : I thought him ** the prince 
 of palfreys •, his neigh was like the bidding of 
 a monarch, and his countenance enforced ho- 
 mage." 
 
 On advancing a short distance into the meadow 
 ♦he cheering sight of a small column of gracefully 
 
 M 2 
 
iHi 
 
 INDIAN RECEPTION. 
 
 L 
 
 n 
 
 curling smoke announced my vicinity to human 
 beings, and in a moment after two Indian women 
 perceived me : they instantly fled to a hut which 
 appeared at the farther end of the meadow. This 
 movement made me doubt whether I had arrived 
 among friends or enemies -, but my apprehensions 
 were quickly dissipated by the approach of two 
 men, who came running to me in the most friendly 
 manner. On seeing the lacerated state of my 
 feet, they carried me in their arms to a comfort- 
 able dwelling covered with deer-skins. To wash 
 and dress my torn limbs, roast some roots, and 
 boil a small salmon, seemed but the business of a 
 moment. After returning thanks to that great 
 and good Being, in whose hands are the issues of 
 life and death, and who had watched over my 
 wandering steps, and rescued me from the many 
 perilous dangers I encountered, I sat down to my 
 salmon, of which it is needless to say I made a 
 hearty supper. 
 
 The family consisted of an elderly man, and 
 his sonj with their wives and children. I col- 
 lected from their signs that they were aware of 
 my being lost, and that they, with other Indians, 
 and white men, had been out several days scour- 
 ing the woods and plains in search of me. I 
 also understood from them that our party had 
 
I'LKASUHES OF SOCIETV. 
 
 165 
 
 arrived at their destination, which was only a few 
 hours* inarch from their habitation. They be- 
 haved to me with affectionate solicitude ; and 
 while the old woman was carefully dressing my 
 feet, the men were endeavouring to make me 
 comprehend their meaning. I had been four- 
 teeen days in a wilderness without holding *• com- 
 munion kind" with any human being ; and I 
 need not say I listened with a thousand times 
 more real delight to the harsh and guttural 
 voices of those poor Indians, than was ever 
 experienced by the most enthusiastic admirer of 
 melody from the thrilling tones of a Catalan!, 
 or the melting sweetness of a Stephens. As it 
 was too late, after finishing my supper, to pro- 
 ceed farther that night, I retired to rest on a 
 comfortable couch of buffalo and deer skins. I 
 slept soundly ; and the morning of the 31st was 
 far advanced before I awoke. After breakfast- 
 ing on the remainder of the salmon, I prepared 
 to join my white friends. A considerable stream 
 about ninety yards broad, called Coeur d* Alene 
 River, flowed close to the hut. The old man 
 and his son accompanied me. We crossed the 
 river in a canoe; after which they brought over 
 three horses, and having enveloped my body in 
 an Indian mantle of deer-skin, we mounted, and 
 

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 166 
 
 JOYFUL MEETING. 
 
 set off at a smart trot in an easterly direction. 
 We had not. proceeded more than seven miles 
 ',7hen I felt the bad effects of having eaten so 
 much salmon after so long a fast. J had a severe 
 attaek of indigestion, and for two hours suffered 
 extreme agony ; and, but for the great attention 
 of the kind Indians, I think it would have proved 
 fatal. About an hour after recommencing our 
 journey we arrived in a clear wood, in which, 
 with joy unutterable, I observed our Canadians 
 at work hewing timber. I rode between the 
 two natives. One of our men named F)'angois 
 Oard^ie, who had been on a trading excursion, 
 joined us on horseback. My deer-skin robe and 
 sun-burnt features completely set his powers of 
 recognition at defiance, and he addresed me as 
 an Indian. I replied in French, by asking him 
 how all our people were. Poor Fran9ois ap- 
 peared electrified, exclaimed " Saint Vierge !** 
 and galloped into the wood, vociferating '* O 
 mes amh ! mes amis I il est trouvi ! — Out, oui, 
 il est trouvi I** — " Qui f qui f" asked his com- 
 rades. " Monsieur Cox ! Monsieur Cox I" re- 
 plied Fran9ois. " Le voild ! le voild /" pointing 
 towards me. Away went saws, hatchets, and 
 axes, and each man rushed forward to the tents, 
 where we had by this time arrived. It ia need- 
 
 .-■.■i.:L--(^.vViV^i----'.I»»li«"'5iJlt 
 
JOYFUL MEETING. 
 
 167 
 
 less to say that our astonishment and delight at 
 my miraculous escape were mutual. The friendly 
 Indians were liberally rewarded ; the men were 
 allowed a holiday, and every countenance bore 
 the smile of joy and happiness. 
 
168 
 
 EXrLANATlQN. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Remarkable case of Mr. Pritchard, who was thirty-five days 
 lost — Situation of Spokan House — Journey to the Flat- 
 head lands, and description of that tribe — Return to Spokan 
 House — Christmas day — Horse-eating — Spokan peculia- 
 rities — Articles of trade — A duel. 
 
 After partaking of some refreshment we na- 
 turally reverted to the cause of my egaremens. 
 It was easily explained. M*Lennan and I, as 
 already mentioned, could only get one horse be- 
 tween us. On the morning of the lyth I had 
 ridden from ten o'clock until twelve, at which 
 hour we breakfasted. It was then M'Lennan*s 
 turn to mount. The party were divided into 
 three divisions, and kept up rather a straggling 
 march while in the plains. Every one had his 
 own business to mind. Those who set off first, 
 thought I was with the second or third division j 
 while they imagined I was with the first. In 
 this manner they continued on for upwards of 
 two hours, until it became my turn to ride, when 
 McLennan, after galloping up and down the line 
 of march, missed me. On communicating the 
 intelligence to Mr. Clarke, he at once ordered 
 
 I 
 
 STsjsi-iii ^■r^^^jH-*' 
 
EXPLANATION. 
 
 169 
 
 the whole to stop, and sent the Indians with 
 several men back in search of me. In the mean 
 time I had recovered from my summer-house 
 dream, and had crossed the track by which they 
 returned, and by that means missed them. On 
 comparing the places where we slept the first 
 night, we could not have been more than three 
 miles asunder ; and although they fired shots 
 repeatedly, I was not fortunate enough to hear 
 any of them. The direction I took the second 
 morning separated us farther; for they went 
 north, and I nearly due east; and the two 
 horsemen I saw on that evening were part of 
 those who were scouring the country in quest of 
 me. The arrangements made for my recovery 
 were hastily '^.dopted, badly carried into execu- 
 tion, and too soon abandoned ; for after the 
 third night, they imagined I had fallen a prey to 
 the wolves, and continued on their course. On 
 arriving at Spokan several other parties were 
 sent out, but with what success it is needless to tell. 
 From my youth, and consequent inexperience in 
 the Indian country, the oldest voyageurs had 
 given me up after the sixth day. A better 
 .knowledge of the productions of the soil would 
 have enabled me to obtain other wild fruit and 
 roots which, by contributing to my sustenance, 
 
170 
 
 EXPLANATION. 
 
 would have greatly alleviated my sufferings; 
 but my ignorance of suci; as were wholesome 
 and nutricious prevented me from tasting any 
 thing with which I had not been previously ac- 
 quainted. On the day before my arrival, my 
 clothes, &c. had been sold by auction ; all of 
 which were however returned by the purchasers. 
 After a few days' rest and proper attention I 
 became nearly renovated in health, and before 
 the end of a fortnight every trace of my painful 
 privations had disappeared. 
 
 To such as may feel disposed to doubt the ac- 
 curacy of the foregoing statement, I beg leave to 
 say that Mr. Clarke, who then commanded the 
 party, and who is now a member of the Hud- 
 son's-Bay Company, and the other gentlemen 
 who were with him, are still alive ; and although 
 they cannot vouch for the truth of each day's de- 
 tail, they can for my absence and the extent of 
 my sufferings, as evinced by my emaciated ap- 
 pearance on rejoining them. I can with truth 
 assert that I have rather softened down than 
 overcharged the statement, and therefore trust 
 candid readers will acquit me of any intention 
 to practise on their credulity. Mine, however, 
 was not a solitary case ; and the sceptical no 
 doubt will be more surprised to learn that a few 
 
 I 
 
 -^^b^e^^-— 
 
SIMILAR ADVENTURE. 
 
 171 
 
 years prior to this occurrence a gentleman named 
 Pritchard, who belonged to the North-west Com- 
 pany, while stationed in the neighbourhood of 
 English River, on the east side of the mountains, 
 lost himself, and was thirty'Jive days wandering 
 through the woods before he was found t In 
 some respects he was better off than I ; for he 
 was well clothed, and from his experience of the 
 country had recourse to expedients to procure 
 food of which I never should have thought. He 
 supported himself for some time by setting traps 
 for hares, a few of which he took in the Indian 
 manner. He likewise made snares out of the 
 hair of his head, with which he caught some small 
 fish ; and he also occasionally succeeded in kil- 
 ling a bird. These he was obliged to eat raw ; 
 and when all other resources failed, he was re- 
 duced to the necessity of eating grass, and a kind 
 of moss, called by the Canadians tripe de rocher. 
 He was found by Indians close to a small stream, 
 endeavouring to crawl on his hands and feet, in 
 a state of utter helplessness and exhaustion ; and 
 for some days previous to his being discovired 
 he had eaten nothing whatever. On being brought 
 to the fort he quickly recovered his ordinary 
 health, the possession of which, I am happy to 
 say, he enjoys to the present moment. 
 
 !.._., 
 
'' 'i 
 
 172 
 
 SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 The spot selected for forming our establish- 
 ment was a handsome point of land, formed by 
 the junction of the Pointed Heart and Spokan 
 rivers, thinly covered with pine and other trees, 
 and close to a trading post of the North-west 
 Company, under the command of a Mr. McMillan, 
 one of their clerks, who had ten men with him. 
 He had two other posts detached from this : one 
 about two hundred and forty miles from it, in a 
 north-easterly direction, among a tribe called the 
 Flat-heads, whose lands lie at the feet of the 
 Rocky Mountains, and are well stocked with 
 buffaloes ; the other about two hundred miles, 
 nearly due north, among a tribe called the 
 Cootonais, in whose country there are plenty of 
 beavers, deer, mountain sheep, and, at times, 
 buffaloes. Mr. Finan M*Donald of the North- 
 west Company had charge of the post among the 
 Flat-heads ; and a Mr. Montour was stationed 
 among the Cootonais. Mr. Fillet was despatched 
 with six men to oppose the latter , and Farnham 
 and I were destined for the Flat-heads. Owing 
 to the length of time our men were detained at 
 Spokan to assist in cutting down timber for the 
 fort, we did not set out until the 17th of October. 
 We had twelve men and fourteen loaded horses. 
 On leaving Spokan our course for four days was 
 
TRADING POSTS. 
 
 173 
 
 north-east, and lay through a handsome open 
 country well watered, and bounded by hills 
 rather thickly wooded. On the evening of the 
 SOth we encamped on the banks of a fine river, 
 which rises in the Rocky Mountains, flows 
 through the lands of the Flat-heads, Pointed 
 Heart, Spokan and Chaudiere Indians, and falls 
 into the Columbia about nine hundred miles 
 from the sea. Its general course is westerly, and 
 it is commonly called the Flathead River. The 
 part at which we had arrived was about four hun- 
 dred yards wide, with an easy current. As this 
 was the spot for crossing to proceed to the Flat- 
 head country, we had to construct rafts for that 
 purpose ; which being prepared on the Slst, 
 we crossed over, and passed all our goods 
 and horses in safety, with the exception of one 
 of the latter, which was drowned by the awk- 
 wardness of the man who held the reins. The 
 day after, the weather set in very cold, accoinrm- 
 nied by snow, which continued almost incessantly 
 for fourteen days. During this period our route 
 lay nearly due east through thick woods of lofty 
 pine and cedar. The horses suffered dreadfully 
 from the want of grass, the deep snow having 
 completely covered the ground, and their only 
 nourishment was obtained by plucking and chew- 
 
174 
 
 MODE OF TRAVELLING. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 S 
 
 ing the branches of the adjoinining trees. A de- 
 tail of each day's proceedings would be a cold and 
 unnecessary repetition. We rose each morning 
 at day-break, loaded the horses, travelled two or 
 three hours, when we stopped for breakfast ; 
 waited an hour for this meal, and then continued 
 on until four or five o'clock in the evening, when 
 we stopped for the night. The path was narrow, 
 and the trees covered with snow, which, from the 
 loaded horses constantly coming in collision with 
 the branches on either side, fell down at every 
 moment in immense masses, annoyed us consider- 
 ably, and greatly impeded our progress. Where 
 the pine predominated, the under-growth was so 
 thick that we could not obtain sufficient space 
 for our tent ; but where the cedar prevailed, we 
 occasionally were enabled to pitch it. This cheer- 
 less and gloomy march continued for fourteen 
 days, during which period we seldom had a dry 
 article of clothing on us, " 
 
 On the 4th of November we cleared the woods, 
 and arrived in a large meadow of prime grass, in 
 which we immediately pitched our tent, and 
 remained for three days to refresh the horses. 
 Our principal subsistence while in the woods was 
 horse-flesh and boiled rice ; but here our hunters 
 supplied us with some of the Rocky Mountain 
 
INDIAN DWELLINGS 
 
 175 
 
 sheep called big-horns, the flesh of which is de- 
 licious, and resembles in taste Welch mutton, but 
 at this season is more delicate. From the time 
 we quitted Spokan we had not seen a native. On 
 the 7th we recommenced our journey eastward ; 
 the weather became more moderate, and the re- 
 cent snows quickly vanished from the surrounding 
 trees. For three days and a half our progress 
 was through undulating meadows, thinly wooded, 
 in which our hunters killed some deer. On the 10th 
 we came to a small village of the Flat-head nation, 
 chiefly consisting of old men, women, and chil- 
 dren. We were quite charmed with. their frank 
 and hospitable reception, and their superiority in 
 cleanliness over any of the tribes we had hitherto 
 seen. Their lodges were conical^ but very spa« 
 cious, and were formed by a number of buffalo 
 and moose skins thrown over long poles in such 
 a manner as to keep them quite dry. The fire 
 was placed in the centre, and the ground all 
 around it was covered with mats and clean skins 
 free from the vermin we felt so annoying at the 
 lower parts of the Columbia. They had a quan- 
 tity of dried buffalo, of which we purchased a 
 good deal ; and as they gave us to understand 
 that the great body of their tribe werelli the 
 mountains hunting, we determined to stop here : 
 
176 
 
 LOO-HOUSE. 
 
 . ' 
 
 \ < 
 
 and accordingly set about constructing a log- 
 house. The cold note became more severe, and 
 the snow began again to fall heavily, which 
 induced the men to work hard ; and before three 
 weeks we had erected the frame of a good sub- 
 stantial building, which in another week was 
 roofed in, and afforded a welcome shelter to the 
 poor fellows whose only covering was their 
 blankets. ' • ,. . , .., 
 
 While the house was being built many of the 
 tribe arrived, from whom we purchased a num- 
 ber of beaver skins. Their hunt had been rather 
 unsuccessful, and attended with disastrous results ; 
 for they informed us, that after killing buffalo 
 sufficient for the winter, they were surprised by 
 their old enemies the Black-feet Indians, (whose 
 lands lie on the east side of the Rocky Mountains,) 
 who killed several of their warriors, and took 
 many prisoners. They appeared much dejected 
 at their misfortunes ; and one of the chiefs 
 seemed to lament the loss of his wife, who had 
 been captured with some other women by the 
 enemy. Part of the tribe pitched their tents 
 some distance above us at the north-west establish- 
 ment. They were passionately fond of tobacco, 
 and #hile they remained with us never ceased 
 smoking. Having bought all their skins, and 
 
 i ! 
 
 i 
 
FLAT-HEAD RIVER. 
 
 177 
 
 alog- 
 e, and 
 which 
 e three 
 >d 8ub- 
 3k was 
 r to the 
 kS their 
 
 ^ of the 
 [ a num- , 
 en rather 
 B results; 
 g buffalo 
 prised by 
 8, (whose 
 juntains,) 
 and took 
 1 dejected 
 the chiefs 
 , who had 
 en by the 
 heir tents 
 \t establish- 
 ,f tobacco, 
 iver ceased 
 skins, and 
 
 given them credit for some articles until the 
 spring, the greater part of them set off to 
 make their winter's hunt, which their recent 
 misfortunes had protracted to a very late period. 
 When the house was finished I got a good 
 canoe built of cedar planks in which I embarked 
 with six men, and taking leave of Farnham, 
 on the 18th of December descended the Flat- 
 head river on my return to Spokan. Our 
 progress was slow and full of danger, from the 
 great number of rapids, and the force of the 
 current. The land on each side was high, and 
 the banks in some places so precipitous, that 
 for three nights we could not find room enough 
 to make our beds on shore, and were con- 
 strained to sleep in a standing position, rolled 
 up in our cloaks and blankets ; leaving the 
 canoe in the water, fastened to poles driven 
 some distance into the ground. On the ^th 
 we arrived at a place where the river forked 
 into four or five small channels, which afterwards 
 united and formed a lake about five miles long, 
 and two broad. We took the centre channel ; 
 but it was full of snags, which broke several 
 of the ribs of our canoe, and we were forced to 
 land on a marshy island, full of small willows, 
 and without a bit of dry wood to make a fire. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
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 178 
 
 RETROSPECTIONS. 
 
 This was a horrible situation ; and the state of 
 our canoe prevented us from proceeding to the 
 main land ', so that we had no alternative but, 
 seated on fallen trees and covered with our 
 blankets, to pass the night in water up to jno 
 ancles. About midnight it commenced snowing, 
 which continued until morning. I thought of 
 my preceding Christmas off Cape Horn, and was 
 puzzled to decide which was the most enviable, 
 — a tempestuous storm in the high southern 
 latitudes, after losing a couple of men — or a 
 half-inundated island, without fire, at the foot 
 of the rocky mountains covered with sheets of 
 snow. In my slumbers I imagined I was sitting 
 at my father's table surrounded by the smiling 
 domestic group, all anxious to partake of a 
 smoking sirloin, and a richly dotted plumb- 
 pudding, while the juvenile members recounted 
 to each other with triumphant joy the amount of 
 their Christmas boxes *, but, alas I 
 
 Sorrow returned with the dawning of morn. 
 And the voice in my dreaming ear melted away. 
 
 The 26th opened on us with snow-clad mountains 
 and forests. With much difficulty we succeeded 
 in patching our battered canoe sufficiently tight 
 to bring us to terra f,rma, where we struck up a 
 
HUNTING, FISHING, &C. 
 
 179 
 
 fire of pine, spruce, and cedar, that would have 
 roasted a solid square of oxen. We remained 
 here all the day, and repaired the canoe, so as 
 to enable us to proceed on the 27th. The day 
 after, we reached the place at which we crossed 
 on our way upwards : here we left the canoe, 
 set off by land on foot, and reached Spokan in 
 time to partake of the new year's festivities. 
 During my absence Mr. Clarke had constructed 
 a snug and commodious dwelling-house, contain- 
 ing four rooms and a kitchen, together with a 
 comfortable house for the men, and a capacious 
 store for the furs and trading goods ; the whole 
 surrounded by paling, and flanked by two bas- 
 tions with loop-holes for musketry. I passed 
 the remainder of the winter at this place ; and 
 between hunting, fishing, reading, 8cc. we con- 
 trived to spend the time agreeably enough. We 
 lived principally on deer, trout, and carp, and 
 occasionally killed a fat horse, as a substitute for 
 beef. Custom had now so far reconciled us to 
 the flesh of this animal, that we often preferred 
 it to what in Europe might be regarded as luxu- 
 ries. Foals or colts are not good, although a 
 few of our men preferred them. A horse for 
 the table should not be under three years or 
 above seven. The flesh of those which are tame, 
 
 N 2 
 
m 
 
 180 
 
 HORSE FLESH. 
 
 
 
 
 in 
 
 I 
 
 ' 
 
 
 well-fed, and occasionally worked, is tender and 
 firm, and the fat hard and white : it is far supe- 
 rior to the wild horse, the flesh of which is loose 
 and stringy, and the fat yellow and rather oily. 
 We generally killed the former for our own 
 table ; and I can assure my readers, that if they 
 sat down to a fat rib, or a rump-steak off a well- 
 fed four-year-old, without knowing the animal, 
 they would imagine themselves regaling on a 
 piece of prime ox beef. In February we 
 took immense quantities of carp in Spokan river 
 above its junction with the Pointed-heart, and 
 in a few weeks after the trout came in great 
 abundance. 
 
 The Spokans we found to be a quiet, honest, 
 inoffensive tribe ; and although we had fortified 
 our establishment in the manner above mentioned, 
 we seldom closed the gates at night. Their coun- 
 try did not abound in furs, and they were rather 
 indolent in hunting. Their chief Illimspokaneey 
 or the Son of the Sun, was a harmless old man, 
 who spent a great portion of his time between us 
 and Mr. M'Millan. We entered into a compact 
 with that gentleman to abstain from giving the 
 Indians any spirituous liquors, to which both 
 parties strictly adhered. Mr. Clarke, who was 
 an old trader himself, had often witnessed the 
 
SPOKAN INDIAKS. 
 
 181 
 
 baneful effects of giving ardent spirits to Indians, 
 while he was in the service of the North-west 
 Company, at all whose establishments on the 
 east side of the Rocky Mountains it was an almost 
 invariable custom. When in a state of intoxica- 
 tion, it is quite impossible to check their savage 
 propensities, and murder frequently is the con- 
 sequence ; a remarkable instance of which I 
 subsequently witnessed in my journey across the 
 continent. By this arrangement both parties 
 saved themselves much trouble and expense, and 
 kept the poor natives in a state of blissful ig- 
 norance. In other respects also we agreed very 
 well with our opponent, and neither party evinced 
 any of the turbulent or lawless spirit, which gave 
 so ferocious an aspect to the opposition of the 
 rival companies on the east side of the moun- 
 tains. The great object of every Indian was to 
 obtain a gun. Now a good gun was not to be 
 had under twenty beaver skins; a few short 
 ones we gave for fifteen : and some idea of the 
 profit may be formed, when I state that the 
 wholesale price of a gun is about one pound 
 seven shillings, while the average value of twenty 
 beaver skins is about twenty-five pounds I Two 
 yards of cloth, which originally cost twelve shil- 
 lings, would generally bring six or eight beavers. 
 
18S 
 
 CEMETERIES. 
 
 /. 
 
 II 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 ti. 
 
 -A 
 
 H 
 
 ,,M I 
 
 i- 
 
 3^ 
 
 IP 
 
 u 
 
 
 value eight or ten pounds I and so on in propor- 
 tion for other articles ; — ^but they were satisfied, 
 and we had no cause to complain. The Spokans 
 are far superior to the Indians of the coast in 
 cleanliness ; but by no means equal in this 
 respect to the Flat-heads. The women are good 
 wives, and most affectionate mothers: the old, 
 cheerful, and complete slaves to their families \ 
 the young, lively and confiding; and whether 
 married or single, free from the vice of in- 
 continence. Their village was situated at the 
 point formed by the junction of the two rivers. 
 Some houses were oblong, others conical ; and 
 were covered with mats or skins, according to 
 the wealth of the proprietor. Their chief riches 
 are their horses, which they generally obtain in 
 barter from the Nez Perc^, in return for the 
 goods they obtain from us for their furs : each 
 man is therefore the founder of his own fortune, 
 and their riches or poverty are generally propor- 
 tioned to their activity or indolence. The vice 
 of gambling, however, is prevalent among them, 
 and some are such slaves to it, that they fre- 
 quently lose all their horses. The spot where 
 
 The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep 
 
 is about midway between the village and' the 
 
DUEL. 
 
 183 
 
 fort, and has rather a picturesque e£fect at a dis- 
 tance. When a man dies, several horses are 
 killed, and the skins are attached to the end of 
 long poles, which are planted in the graves : the 
 number of horses sacrificed is proportioned to 
 the wealth of the individual. Besides the horse- 
 skins, buffalo and deer robes, leather shirts, 
 blankets, pieces of blue, green, and scarlet cloth, 
 strips of calico, moccasins, provisions, warlike 
 weapons. Sec. are placed in and about the ceme- 
 tery ; all of which they imagine will be more or 
 less necessary for the deceased in the world of 
 spirits. As their lands are much infested by 
 wolves, which destroy the foals, they cannot rear 
 horses in such numbers as the Nez Perces, from 
 whom they are obliged to purchase them an- 
 nually. They never kill any for their own use, 
 but felt no repugnance to eat the flesh at our 
 place. As I may hereafter have occasion to 
 speak more of this tribe, I shall for the present 
 revert to the continuation of our proceedings. 
 In the beginning of May, Messrs. Farnham and 
 Fillet returned from their wintering posts. Their 
 success exceeded our anticipations. Both Flat- 
 heads and Cootonais made excellent winter hunts, 
 and returned in the spring loaded with beaver. 
 Mr. Fillet fought a duel with Mr. Montour of 
 
184 
 
 DUEL. 
 
 the North-west, with pocket pistols, at six paces; 
 both hits ; one, in the collar of the coat, and the 
 other in the leg of the trowsers. Two of their 
 men acted as seconds, and the tailor speedily 
 healed their wounds. 
 
 hS:'^ > !p^r ■*.'' vy*; 
 
 ( J 
 
 i' 
 
RETURN TO ASTORfA. 
 
 185 
 
 !8i 
 
 he 
 eir 
 ily 
 
 't}h < •'■■',.. 
 
 I '. .J 
 
 -iiM-V.'ii,.'. 
 
 ■<*ii^ 
 
 - t-'i ,-v4 r 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Execution of an Indian for robbery — War between Great 
 Britain and the United States — Dissolution of the Pacific 
 Fur Company — Author joins the North-west Company, and 
 proceeds to the Rocky Mountains — Meets a party, and re- 
 turns to the sea — Robbery of goods, and successful stratagem 
 to recover the property — Attack at night— Dog-eating — 
 Author and three men pursued by Indians — Narrow escape. 
 
 The different parties having now assembled at 
 Spokan house, we took our departure from that 
 establishment on the ^th of May, on our return 
 to Astoria with the produce of our winter's 
 trade. Mr Fillet was left in charge of the fort 
 with four men. We had twenty-eight loaded 
 horses; and on the 30th of May reached the 
 entrance of the creek o£F Lewis River, where we 
 had left our barge and canoes. 
 
 In the course of this journey we passed some 
 of the places at which I had slept during my 
 wanderings in the preceding August. I pointed 
 out to my fellow-travellers several heaps pf 
 stones which I had piled together, and on which 
 I had scratched my name^ 
 
 We were detained a couple of days at the 
 
 t 
 
180 
 
 ROBBEUY. 
 
 entrance of the creek, to repair the barge and 
 canoes, in consequence of the Indians having 
 taken a quantity of nails out of the former. Our 
 tents were pitched close to the village, and not 
 suspecting any dishonesty on the part of the 
 natives, we kept no watch the first night. Our 
 confidence, however, was misplaced, for in the 
 morning we discovered that a daring robbery 
 had been committed during the night. In the 
 tent in which Mr. Clarke slept he kept a large 
 garde-vin, which he had locked on retiring to 
 rest, but the key of which he had omitted to take 
 out : the tent was closely fastened, and while he 
 was asleep, the strings were untied, the garde-vin 
 opened, and a valuable silver goblet stolen there- 
 out I Several loose articles were also taken, and 
 bundles belonging to many of the men were car- 
 ried away. Mr. Clarke immediately assembled 
 the principal Indians ; told them of the robbery \ 
 declared if the stolen property were returned, he 
 would pardon the offender ; but added, if it were 
 not, and that he should find the thief, he would 
 hang him. The chief, with several others, pro- 
 mised they would use their best exertions to dis- 
 cover the delinquent and bring back the pro- 
 perty ; but the day passed over without tidings 
 of either. On the second night, (the Slst,) twtj 
 
OFFENDER DISCOVEULD. 
 
 187 
 
 sentinels were placed at each end of the camp 
 with orders to conceal themselves and keep a 
 sharp look-out. Shortly after midnight they ob- 
 served the figure of a man creeping slowly out 
 of one of the tents, and carrying with him a 
 bundle of clothes, a powder horn, &c. They 
 silently watched his progress, until they saw him 
 in the act of jumping into a small canoe which 
 he had in the creek, upon which they sprung 
 forward, stopped the canoe, and seized him. 
 We were instantly alarmed } and a general 
 search taking place, a quantity of articles be- 
 longing to the men were missed, together with 
 a pistol of Farnham's and a dagger of mine, all 
 of which were stolen that night. Most of the 
 property was found in the canoe ; but he refused 
 to give any account of the remainder. We had 
 not the slightest suspicion of this man, who had 
 been remarkably well treated by us j in conse- 
 quence of which, and the aggravated nature of 
 the robbery, Mr. Clarke determined to put his 
 threat into execution. He accordingly ordered 
 a temporary gallows to be erected, and had the 
 arms and legs of the culprit pinioned. About 
 eight o'clock in the morning of the 1st of June 
 he assembled the chief and all the Indians of the 
 village, and made a short speech, in which he 
 
188 
 
 EXECUTION. 
 
 f ' 
 
 ' ^ 
 
 told them that the prisoner had abused his confi- 
 dence, violated the rights of hospitality, and 
 committed an offence for which he ought to 
 suffer death ; that from an anxiety to keep on 
 good terms with all their nation, he had over- 
 looked many thefts committed while he had been 
 there last August ; which lenity, he was sorry to 
 say, had only led to more daring acts of robbery, 
 and that as a terror to others, and in order to 
 show that it was not fear that prevented him 
 from taking an earlier notice of such aggressions, 
 he had now resolved that this robber should be 
 hanged. The Indians acquiesced in this decision ; 
 and the chief declared that the prisoner did not 
 belong to their tribe, but was a kind of outlaw, 
 of whom they were all afraid. The gallows 
 being now prepared, Mr. Clarke gave the signal, 
 and after great resistance, during which he 
 screamed in the most frightful manner, the 
 wretched criminal was launched into eternity. 
 His countrymen looked on the whole proceeding 
 with the greatest unconcern ; but the unfortunate 
 being himself exhibited none of that wonderful 
 self-command, or stoical indifference to death, 
 which we observed in others, and for which 
 Indians in general are so celebrated. By the 
 time it was supposed life was extinct, Mr. 
 
 r, 
 
BAD NEWS. 
 
 189 
 
 M'Lennan with three men set off with the horses 
 on his return to Spokan, and we embarked in 
 the canoes. The current was swift, and we ar- 
 rived early the following day at the mouth of 
 Lewis River, a little below which we found the 
 parties of Messrs. M'Kenzie and Stuart, where 
 we had appointed to meet them on our separa- 
 tion the preceding autumn. From this place we 
 proceeded together, and arrived at Astoria on 
 the 11th of June, 1813, without incurring any 
 material accident. We found all our friends in 
 good health; but a total revolution had taken 
 place in the affairs of the Company. Messrs. 
 John George M'Tavish and Joseph La Rocque, 
 of the North-west Company, with two canoes 
 and sixteen men, had arrived a few days before 
 us. From these gentlemen we learned for the 
 first time, that war had been declared the year 
 before between Great Britain and the United 
 States; and that in consequence of the strict 
 blockade of the American ports by British cruisers, 
 no vessel would vei..ture to proceed to our re- 
 mote establishment during the continuation of 
 hostilities : added to which, a trading vessel 
 which had touched at the Columbia in the early 
 part of the spring, had informed our people that 
 the ship Beaver was blocked up in Canton. 
 
190 
 
 AUTHOR JOINS THE N, W, COMPANY. 
 
 ill 
 
 '.W 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 
 K 
 
 It! 
 
 These unlucky and unexpected circumstances, 
 joined to the impossibility of sustaining ourselves 
 another year in the country without fresh sup- 
 plies, which, in the then posture of affairs, it 
 would be hopeless to expect, induced our pro- 
 prietory to enter into negociations with Mr. 
 M*Tavish, who had been authorised by the 
 North-west Company to treat with them. In a 
 few weeks an amicable arrangement was made, 
 by which Mr. M*Tavish agreed to purchase all 
 the furs, merchandise, provisions, &c. of our 
 Company at a certain valuation, stipulating to 
 provide a safe passage back to the United States, 
 either by sea, or across the continent, for such 
 members of it as chose to return ; and at the same 
 time offering to those who should wish to join 
 the North-west Company and remain in the coun- 
 try, the same terms as if they had originally been 
 members of that Company. Messrs. Ross, M'Len- 
 nan, and I, took advantage of these liberal pro- 
 posals, and some time after Mr. Duncan M*Dou- 
 gall, one of the directors, also joined the North- 
 west. The Americans of course preferred return- 
 ing to their own country, as did also Mr. Gabriel 
 Franch^re,'"' and a few other Canadian clerks. 
 
 * From this gentleman's knowledge of the Chinook lan- 
 guage Mr. M'Tavish made him handsome olfers to join the 
 
 \r 
 
PISfATCHfiS, 
 
 191 
 
 The pleasure I experienced in joinings an es- 
 tablishment, every member of which wns a fellow- 
 subject, was mingled with deep regret at parting 
 from so many of my late associates, for some of 
 whom I entertained a sincere regard, — a ri^gard 
 which I feel pleasure in saying was mutual, and 
 which the difference of country could not di- 
 minish. My friends Clapp, Halsey, and Matthews, 
 were genuine Americans of the Washington ian 
 school, and consequently untinctured by any of 
 the unnatural and acrimonious hatred to the land 
 of their forefathers which among a large portion 
 of their countrymen, was so prevalent at that 
 angry period. And though the sanguine hopes 
 they had entertained of realising in a few years 
 an independence were destroyed by the war, I 
 feel pleasure in being able to add, that they are 
 now happily flourishing in their native country. 
 
 As Mr. M'Tavish expected dispatches over- 
 land from the directors at Montreal, and as it 
 was necessary to acquaint the gentlemen inland 
 with the change that affairs had taken at Astoria, 
 Mr. La Rocque and I proceeded with two canoes 
 and sixteen men well armed to the interior, with 
 orders to leave letters at Oakinagan and Spokan, 
 
 North-west Company, which he refused. He however re- 
 mained until the following spring. 
 
192 
 
 MEETING. 
 
 explanatory of these circumstances, and thence 
 continue on across the Rocky Mountains to Fort 
 William, (the great central dep6t at the head of 
 Lake Superior,) unless we met an express, in 
 which case we were to return to the sea. We 
 left Astoria on the 5th of July, and having no 
 lading in our canoes, except provisions, we 
 passed in safety the hostile Indians at the great 
 rapids and falls. They were very numerous at 
 the latter place j but seeing our men well armed, 
 and our canoes empty, they had no idea of risk- 
 ing their lives, when no plunder could be ob- 
 tained. As I shall have occasion hereafter to 
 give a particular description of the country about 
 the upper parts of the Columbia, I shall now 
 merely mention that we passed the navigable 
 part of it, and reached the place where one of 
 its sources issues out of the Rocky Mountains on 
 the 2nd of September, after a tedious and labo- 
 rious voyage of two months, against a strong 
 current. We laid up our canoe, and were pre- 
 paring to set out on foot, when we were agree- 
 ably surprised by the arrival of Messrs. John 
 Stuart, Alexander Stewart, and Joseph M'Gil- 
 livray, partners of the North-west Company, 
 who with twenty men were on their way to 
 Astoria, armed with full powers to join Mr. 
 
NEWS. 
 
 lOi 
 
 M'Tavish, in purchasing the stock of the Ameri- 
 can Company. They acquainted us that the 
 North-west Company's ship called the " Isaac 
 Tod" sailed from London, under the convoy 
 of a sloop of war for the Columbia, and would 
 arrive early in the autumn, with a large cargo 
 for the Indian trade. These gentlemen brought 
 several newspapers ; and having heard nothing 
 from the civilised world for two years, we de- 
 voured their contents. Mr. M'Gillivray had 
 served the preceding campaign in the American 
 war as a lieutenant in the Canadian chasseurs, 
 a corps commanded by his father, the Hon. 
 William M*Gillivray, and composed chiefly of 
 the gentlemen and voyageurs of the North- 
 west Company. He had been engaged in se- 
 veral smart affairs with the enemy, and was at 
 the taking of Michilimacinac, at which and 
 other places, he had considerably distinguished 
 himself. He was therefore our great chronicler 
 of recent events, and during our passage down- 
 wards our thousand and one interrogatories sel- 
 dom allowed his tongue half an hour's rest. 
 None but those who have been so long debarred 
 from the passing scenes of the great world can 
 form an idea of the greedy voracity with which 
 exiles so circumstanced swallow the most trifling 
 VOL. I. o 
 
194 
 
 INLAND EXPEDITION. 
 
 news. A remnant of a newspaper is invaluable ; 
 and even an auctioneer's advertisement, or a 
 quack-doctor's puff, is read with interest. 
 
 We reached Astoria on the 1 1th of October, 
 having travelled from the 5th of July upwards of 
 two thousand three hundred miles. "We re- 
 mained here till the latter end of the month in 
 the expectation of seeing the " Isaac Tod ;" 
 as that vessel did not arrive, the proprietors de- 
 termined to send a strong party to the interior 
 with>a supply of such goods as the fort could 
 furnish for the winter's trade. The necessary 
 arrangements being completed, we set off on the 
 29th of October. Our party consisted of Messrs. 
 John Stuart, Donald Mackenzie, Joseph M'Gil- 
 livray. La Rocque, M'Donald, Read, and the 
 author, with fifty-five men. On arriving at the 
 first rapids few Indians made their appearance ; 
 and from their peaceable demeanour, we did not 
 think it necessary to observe our usual caution 
 in guarding the portages. We passed the first 
 unmolested, and had carried about one-third of 
 the goods over the second, when we were alarm- 
 ed by a loud cry, and immediately after one of 
 the men appeared, and stated that he and ano- 
 ther man had been attacked by a large party of 
 the natives, who had knocked them down, and 
 
 t: 
 
 \ 
 
INDIAN ATTACK. 
 
 195 
 
 robbed them of two bales of dry goods, with 
 which they made off into the woods, and that he 
 feared others of the men would also be attacked. 
 Orders were immediately despatched to Messrs. 
 La Rocque and M'Gillivray, who were at the 
 foot of the portage, to advance with a few of 
 their men, while Mr. John Stuart and I, with 
 ten men, proceeded from the upper end. Mr. 
 M'Donald remained in charge at one end, and 
 Mr. Donald Mackenzie at the other. 
 
 On arriving about the middle of the portage, 
 where the village was situated, we found the 
 pathway guarded by fifty or sixty Indians, with 
 their war-shirts on, and fully armed, apparently 
 determined to dispute the passage. The moment 
 they perceived our approach they placed their 
 arrows in their bows, which they presented at us, 
 at the same time jumping like kangaroos back- 
 wards and forwards, and from right to left, in 
 such a manner as to render it almost impossible 
 to take a steady aim at any of them. In our 
 hurry we had not time to put on our leathern 
 armour, and from the hostile appearance of the 
 savages, some of our men declared they would 
 not advance a step farther. Mr. Stuart shortly 
 addressed them, pointing out the dangerous 
 situation in which we were placed, between two 
 
 o 2 
 
196 
 
 PARLEY. 
 
 portages ; that if the enemy observed the least 
 symptom of fear, they would become the assail- 
 ants, in which case we could neither advance nor 
 retreat, and must ultimately be cut off, adding 
 at the same time he would do every thing in his 
 power to avoid coming to extremities ; but that, 
 above all things, it was absolutely necessary to 
 show them the most determined front. The 
 men hereupon consented to fight. He then in- 
 formed the Indians that he did not wish to fight 
 — but that if the stolen goods were not returned, 
 the white men would destroy their village and 
 take all their property. We were imperfectly 
 acquainted with their language, and they either 
 did not, or affected not to understand the mean- 
 ing of his address ; for they still continued their 
 kangaroo movements with their arrows pre- 
 sented, preserving at the same time the strictest 
 silence. We were somewhat puzzled at this 
 conduct ; but as we were anxious to avoid 
 bloodshed, and at the same time to recover the 
 stolen property, Mr. Stuart judged it prudent to 
 wait the arrival of the other party. In a few 
 seconds Messrs La Rocque and M'Gillivray with 
 their men appeared at the rear of the Indians, 
 who were thus placed between two fires; but 
 they had the sagacity to perceive that we could 
 
 I 
 
 U 
 
'/ 
 
 STKATAGEM. 
 
 197 
 
 not act on the offensive without endangering- our 
 own lives. About one half of them therefore 
 quickly turned round, and by this movement 
 presented a hostile front to each of our small 
 parties. During this time none of their old men, 
 women, or children, made their appearance ; and 
 as ivlr Stuart supposed they had been conveyed 
 from the village, he requested Mr. La Rocque to 
 advance with a few of his men into the wood on 
 his right, and at the same time sent me with five 
 of our party to the left, ordering each of us to 
 seize all men, women, and children, we could 
 find, for the purpose of detaining them as hos- 
 tages until the property should be returned. 
 Messrs. Stuart and M'Gillivray, with the re- 
 mainder of the men, still kept possession of the 
 pathway in front and rear of the village, and the 
 enemy for some time were ignorant of the ruse 
 de guerre we had adopted. I proceeded about 
 forty yards in an oblique direction to the left, 
 with my party, when we imagined we heard 
 voices before us : we therefore advanced slowly 
 and cautiously a few paces farther, until we ar- 
 rived at a large rock. I sent three men round 
 one end of it, and proceeded myself with the re- 
 maining two round the other ; and, as we turned 
 the left corner, we perceived three old men, with 
 
 C I 
 
/ 
 
 198 
 
 CAPTIVES. 
 
 sJBveral women and children, sitting round a fire ; 
 some of whom were sharpening iron and flint 
 heads for arrows, which, after being heated in 
 the fire, were dipped into a wooden bowl con- 
 taining a thick blackish liquid. On observing 
 us they attempted to escape, when the other 
 three men appeared. We instantly seized their 
 armoury, and took two of the old men, three 
 women, and some children prisoners. They 
 were much frightened, and thought we would 
 put them to death, but on our explaining that 
 they would sustain no injury if our goods were 
 returned, they appeared more tranquil, and came 
 with us quietly until v/e reached Mr. Stuart, who 
 was still in the same situation. La Rocque was 
 equally fortunate, and had captured one old man, 
 four women, and five children, on his side of the 
 wood, with whom he had just appeared in sight 
 as my party arrived. 
 
 The warriors were quite staggered at finding 
 we had made so many prisoners, and fearing we 
 might follow their own mode, which was either 
 to kill them or make them slaves, they at once 
 laid down their arms, and offered to go in search 
 of the bales, provided we would liberate the 
 prisoners. Mr. Stuart replied that none of theri. 
 would be injured, but that they should remain in 
 
 : 
 
 J- 
 
 'I < ! 
 
AMICABLE AllllANGEMENT. 
 
 199 
 
 custody until the property was restored and our 
 people safely over the portage. A guard was 
 then stationed over the prisoners, and word was 
 sent to M'Donald to order his men to recom- 
 mence the carriage of the goods ; during the pro- 
 gress of which we kept up a chain of sentinels 
 en route. By the time we' had nearly finished, 
 three of the Indians, whose wives were captives, 
 brought a great part of the contents of the bales, 
 which they alleged they took by force from the 
 thieves, who had cut open the envelopes and con- 
 cealed the remainder ; and they therefore hoped 
 we would allow their relations to return home. 
 Mr. Stuart told them he was determined not to 
 allow one of them to stir until every article that 
 had been stolen was brought back. The eldest 
 of the three declared that it was very unjust of 
 the white men to punish him and his relations 
 for the dishonesty of others, and that when he 
 expected a reward for his exertions in bringing 
 back so much property, he found his wife and 
 children were to be detained as slaves. All this 
 appeared very plausible ; but we recognized this 
 very fellow as one of the most prominent and 
 active of the armed band, and apparently their 
 leader. 
 
 He made some farther remonstrances to the 
 
1- 
 
 i 
 
 200 
 
 MIDNIGHT ATTACK. 
 
 same eflPect ; but finding we were inflexible, he 
 went away with his two companions ; and in 
 about half an hour after returned, accompanied 
 by several others, with the remainder of the 
 stolen property. They alleged the thieves had 
 run away, and on asking them for their chief, 
 they said he was absent. The canoes having 
 been now laden, Mr. Stuart told them that he 
 should release their friends and relations for this 
 time, but that if another attempt was ever made, 
 the white people would punish them severely ; 
 and as a mark of his anger at their late conduct, 
 he would not then give them the usual gratuity 
 of tobacco. The prisoners were then released, 
 and we pushed off. As it was rather late we 
 could not advance more than three miles, when 
 we encamped in a small cove on the left side, 
 behind which was a thick wood of hazel, beech, 
 and pine. We had a large fire at the end of 
 the camp j and the party was divided into two 
 watches. The forepart of the night passed off 
 quietly ; but about two o'clock in the morning 
 we were alarmed by one of the flank sentinels 
 being brought to the centre wounded. He stated 
 that he and two of his comrades had approached 
 the fire for the purpose of lighting their pipes, 
 when several arrows were discharged at them' 
 
ENEMY REFULSED. 
 
 201 
 
 from the wood, one of which wounded him in 
 the left arm ; upon hearing which Messrs. La 
 Rocque and M'Donald, who commanded the 
 watch, fired into the wood. The tents were 
 immediately struck, and the men ordered to 
 withdraw from the fires and concentrate them- 
 selves behind the canoes. About ten minutes 
 afterwards a shower of arrows was discharged 
 from the same place, followed by loud yells ; 
 but some passed over our heads, while others 
 were intercepted by the canoes, in which they 
 remained fast. The two watches were now or- 
 dered to fire a volley alternately, and load im- 
 mediately. The first discharge caused much 
 rustling among the leaves and branches ; the se- 
 cond, as we supposed, completely dislodged them» 
 and from moans heard from the retreating sa- 
 vages we had reason to think that some of our 
 balls took effect. It was a cold damp morning, 
 and what between the fatigues and dangers of 
 the preceding day, fear, chilness, and the want of 
 sleep, our men did not seem much disposed for 
 fighting. Mr. Stuart therefore ordered each 
 man a double allowance of rum, " to make his 
 courage cheerie,*' and the moment daylight be- 
 gan to dawn the canoes were thrown into the 
 water, and the lading immediately commenced. 
 
'iOi 
 
 AMBUSH. 
 
 J 
 
 The canoe-men embarked first ', and we fol- 
 lowed. The last man on shore was a celebrated 
 half-bred hunter, named Pierre Michel, and just 
 as he was about stepping into his canoe, one of 
 the men perceived a tall Indian emerge from the 
 wood, and bend his bow : he had scarcely time 
 to warn Michel of his danger ere the arrow 
 winged its flight, and completely pierced his hat, 
 in which it remained fixed. Michel instantly 
 turned round, and as the savage retreated into 
 the wood, fired, and hit him somewhere about 
 the knee. He then sprang into the canoe : we 
 discharged a few more shots, pushed off, and pad- 
 dled quickly to the opposite side. From the 
 greyish twilight of the morning we had only an 
 imperfect view of the Indian ; but the men who 
 had the best opportunity of seeing him were of 
 opinion that he was the same who had expostu- 
 lated the day before about the detention of his 
 wife, after he had brought back part of the goods. 
 We landed about ten miles farther up on the 
 right side, on an open point ; and as the canoes 
 wanted repairing, and the men stood in need of 
 repose, it was deemed expedient to remain there 
 during the day. I forgot to mention that one of 
 our Iroquois hunters sucked the wound which 
 the man had received from the arrow in the • 
 
SCARCITY OF IMIOVISIONS. 
 
 203 
 
 arm : this probably saved the poor fellow's life, 
 as we had reason to think that the arrow was 
 poisoned. The day after, the arm became quite 
 black from the wrist to the shoulder ; but, by the 
 use of caustic applications, the dangerous symp- 
 toms were dispersed, and in a few weeks he re- 
 covered his ordinary health. 
 
 From this place to the narrows and falls we 
 saw no Indians ; but at the latter we found about 
 fifteen lodges of the Eneeshurs. As our provi- 
 sions were nearly consumed, we were obliged to 
 purchase twenty dogs from them. It was the 
 first time I had eaten any of the flesh of this ani- 
 mal, and nothing but stern necessity could have 
 induced me to partake of it. The president of 
 our mess called it muttony which it somewhat 
 resembles in taste. We generally had it roasted, 
 but the Canadians preferred it boiled, and the 
 majority of them seemed to think it superior to 
 horse-flesh. In this, however, I entirely differ 
 from them, for the latter is a cleaner animal, and 
 in taste bears a stronger resemblance to beef than 
 the dog does to mutton. The natives behaved 
 themselves quietly, and did not show any dispo- 
 sition to pilfer. 
 
 From hence to the Wallah Wallah river we 
 obtained no horses, and our chief support con- 
 
UOli 
 
 EXPERIMENTAL EXCUUSION. 
 
 sisted of one hundred and fifty dogs, which we 
 purchased at the different villages. The Wallah 
 Wallahs received us in their usual friendly man- 
 ner, and we purchased from them about twenty 
 good horses. 
 
 Mr. Read, accompanied by eight men, (excel- 
 lent hunters,) left us here on an experimental 
 journey to the country of the Shoshon^ or Snake 
 Indians, on whose lands he had seen great quan- 
 tities of beaver in the course of his journey 
 across the continent with Mr. Hunt. His party 
 took sixteen of the horses with them. 
 
 After leaving this place the weather set in very 
 cold, accompanied by occasional showers of snow, 
 and we became apprehensive that we should en- 
 counter much difficulty in reaching our various 
 wintering posts. We therefore stopped at a vil- 
 lage a short distance above Lewis River, on the 
 south side of the Columbia ; where, with hard 
 bargaining, and after giving an exorbitant price, 
 we obtained six horses. With these and three 
 men I was ordered to proceed across the country 
 to Spokan House, for the purpose of bringing 
 down a sufficient number of the company's 
 horses to Oakinagan, where the canoes were to 
 stop, the trading goods having to be conveyed 
 from thence by land-carriage to their respective ' 
 winter destinations. 
 
EXPERIMENTAL EXCURSION. 
 
 205 
 
 Two of the horses carried our provisions and 
 blankets , and as we learned from the Wallah 
 Wallahs that the relations of the Indian who had 
 been hanged by Mr. Cjarke in the spring* were 
 in the plains, and had declared their determina- 
 tion to have satisfaction for his death, we got 
 particular orders not to separate, or on any ac. 
 count to tire our horses by deer-hunting. I made 
 the men change their muskets for short trading 
 guns, about the size of carbines ; with which, a 
 brace of pistols, and a dagger each, we set out 
 on our overland journey. The two first days 
 we passed in hard galloping, without meeting any 
 thing worth noticing ; but about ten o'clock on 
 the morning of the third day, as we were pre- 
 paring to remount after breakfast, we observed 
 three Indians about a mile distant, advancing 
 from the direction of Lewis River. They were 
 mounted, and, on perceiving us, stopped a few 
 minutes in order to ascertain our numbers. We 
 did not like this ; and mB.de signs to them to ap- 
 proach, which they affected not to understand : 
 but after reconnoitring us some time, and making 
 themselves certain that our number did not ex- 
 ceed four, they wheeled about, and galloped 
 back in the same direction. Being now of opinion 
 that their intentions were not friendly, we in- 
 
206 
 
 FORTUNATE ESCAPE. 
 
 V, 
 
 P 
 
 creased our speed, and for upwards of three 
 hours none of them made their appearance. Our 
 horses being nearly exhausted, we slackened the 
 reins for about half an hour, after putting two of 
 the most jaded under the saddle-bags. This rest 
 brought them to again, and probably saved us ; 
 for about two o'clock we observed large clouds 
 of dust in a south-westerly direction, which, on 
 clearing away, displayed to our view between 
 thirty and forty of the savages on horseback in 
 pursuit of us. Sauve qui pent was now the cry ; 
 and as the two spare horses with the saddle-bags 
 retarded our escape, we left them behind, and 
 galloped away for our lives. The enemy gra- 
 dually gained on us ; but we observed that the 
 greater number had fallen back, or given up the 
 pursuit, and at the end of two hours only ten 
 were in sight. Still we did not think ourselves 
 a match for them ; but shortly after their num- 
 bers were reduced to eight, apparently well 
 mounted and armed. Our horses began to totter, 
 and it became quite evident could not proceed 
 much farther at such a rate. I knew the men 
 were made of good materials, and therefore pro- 
 posed to them to dismount, take our station be- 
 hind the horses, and when our pursuers came 
 within the range of our shot, each to cover his 
 
 
SKIRMISH. 
 
 207 
 
 man, and fire ; after which, if we had not time 
 to reload, we could work with our pistols. They 
 all agreed ; but the moment the enemy perceived 
 us dismount and take up our position, they at 
 once guessed our object, and turned about for 
 the purpose of retreating. We instantly fired, 
 and two of their horses fell : their riders quickly 
 mounted behind their companions, and in a short 
 time disappeared. We were now quite overjoyed 
 at seeing the horse with our provisions gallop up 
 to us ; but the other, which carried our blankets 
 was, I suppose, captured. The report of our 
 fire-arms brought us much more important relief, 
 by the appearance of ten young hunters belong- 
 ing to the Spokan nation, with every one of 
 whom we were well acquainted, and on whose 
 hunting grounds we then were On telling them 
 of our escape, they were quite indignant, and 
 declared that, although they were not at war 
 with the Nez Percys Indians, they would wil- 
 lingly join us in pursuit of them, and chastise 
 them for their presumption in following their 
 white friends to their hunting-grounds ; adding, 
 that they knew their chiefs heart would be glad 
 at any assistance they could render us. I thanked 
 them for their friendly offer, which I declined ; 
 assigning as a reason, that we wished to live on 
 
208 
 
 FORTUNATE RELIEF. 
 
 U • ■ 
 
 good terms with all the nations, and that I had 
 no doubt we should be able to convince the fool- 
 ish people who had lately pursued us of the im- 
 policy of their conduct towards the whites. We 
 proceeded about ten miles farther that evening-, 
 and slept in company with the Spokans, who 
 kept watch in turn during- the night. The follow- 
 ing day, the 21 st of November, two of them ac- 
 companied us, and we arrived at the fort about 
 four in the evening-, without meeting any thing 
 farther. 
 
JOURNEY TO OAKINAGAN. 
 
 209 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Author proceeds to Oakinagan, and thetice to the Flat-heads, 
 where he passes the winter— Cruel treatment of the Black* 
 feet prisoners by the Flat-heads— Horrible spectacle — Buf- 
 falo the cause of war between the two tribes — Women — 
 Government — Peace and war chiefs — Wolves — Anecdote 
 of a dog — Syrnp of birch — Surgical and medical knowledge 
 of Flat-heads — Remarkable cure of rheumatism — Their ideas 
 of a future state; and curious tradition respecting the 
 beavers — Name of Flat-head a misnomer — A marriage. 
 
 As dispatch was necessary, owing to the late- 
 ness of the season, I remained only one night at 
 Spokan House, and set off early in the morning 
 of the ^2d November for Oakinagan. I took 
 two additional men with me, and fifty horses. 
 The road was good, the distance about one 
 hundred and fifty miles, and no danger to be 
 apprehended from Indians. Having plenty of 
 horses to change, we went on briskly ; and on 
 the evening of the 25t\i arrived at the Columbia, 
 opposite the entrance of the Oakinagan river, 
 where the fort was built. On crossing over, 
 I found that the northern parties had set off for 
 their wintering quarters ; and as I was appointed 
 to take charge of those intended for the eastern 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 P 
 
f 
 
 210 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 ■' * 
 
 posts, I slept only that night at Oakinagan, and 
 the next morning (the 26th) had all the goods 
 transported across the river. The following is 
 an extract from the letter of instructions directed 
 to me on this occasion, the whole of which is 
 rather lengthy and uninteresting for insertion : — 
 " On your arrival here, you will assume the 
 immediate management of the brigade, and every 
 thing else during the voyage ; * and make the 
 best of your way to Spokan House, where you 
 will make as little delay as possible. From 
 thence you will proceed to join Mr. McMillan 
 at the Flat-heads ; and if you are reduced to eat 
 horses, either at Spokan or farther on, they 
 ought to be the worst." The liberal writer of 
 this economical advice was in other respects 
 a very worthy, good-natured individual, and in 
 his own person evinced the most Spartan con- 
 tempt for the good things of the table. Tobacco 
 was his mistress ; and from the moment he rose 
 until he retired to rest, his calumet was seldom 
 allowed to cool. I was not, however, philo- 
 sopher enough to prefer the intoxicating fumes 
 of the Virginian weed to the substantial enjoy- 
 
 * This word is used generally in the Indian country for all 
 terraqueous journies ; and voyageura is the term applied to the 
 Canadian canoe men. 
 
SPA'EKE TRIALS. 
 
 211 
 
 ment of fat and lean ; and candidly confess, that 
 in my choice of horses for the kettle, I wilfully 
 departed from my instructions, by selecting those 
 whose ribs were least visible. 
 
 We arrived safely at Spokan, at which place 
 I slept one night, and then continued on for the 
 Fltit-heads with eight men and twelve loaded 
 horses. We pursued the same route I had fol- 
 lowed the preceding winter with my friend 
 Farnham, through the thick woods along the 
 banks of the Flat-head river ; and after suffering 
 great hardships from cold and snow, reached 
 Mr. McMillan on the 24th of December, with 
 the loss of two horses, which we were obliged to 
 leave in the woods from exhaustion. The fort 
 was about forty miles higher up in an easterly 
 direction than the place Farnham and I had 
 chosen for the log-house. It had a good trading 
 store, a comfortable house for the men, and 
 a snug box for ourselves ; all situated on a point 
 formed by the junction of a bold mountain tor- 
 rent with the Flat-head river, and surrounded 
 on all sides with high and thickly wooded hills, 
 covered with pine, spruce, larch, beech, birch, 
 and cedar. A large band of the Flat-head war- 
 riors were encamped about the fort. They had 
 recently returned from the buffalo country, and 
 
 p2 
 
212 
 
 TIMELY AURIVAL. 
 
 N 
 
 :> 
 
 ■ <i 
 
 ¥. ' 
 
 I ! 
 
 h *i 
 
 had revenged their defeat of the preceding year, 
 by a signal victory over their enemies the Black- 
 feet; several of whose warriors, with their women, 
 they had taken prisoners. M*Millan*s tobacco 
 and stock of trading goods had been entirely 
 expended previous to my arrival, and the Indians 
 were much in want of ammunition, &c. My 
 appearance, or I should rather say, the goods 
 I brought with me, was therefore a source of 
 great joy to both parties. The natives smoked 
 the much-loved weed for several days succes- 
 .sively. Our hunters killed a few mountain 
 sheep, and I brought up a bag of flour, a bag of 
 rice, plenty of tea and coffee, some arrow-root, 
 and fifteen gallons of prime rum. We spent a 
 comparatively happy Christmas, and, by the side 
 of a blazing fire in a warm room, forgot the 
 sufferings we endured in our dreary progress 
 through the woods. There was, however, in the 
 midst of our festivities, a great drawback from 
 the pleasure we should have otherwise enjoyed, 
 I allude to the unfortunate Black-feet who had 
 been captured by the Flat-heads. Having been 
 informed that they were about putting one of 
 their prisoners to death, I went to their camp to 
 witness the spectacle. The man was tied to a 
 tree ; after which they heated an old barrel of a 
 
I 
 
 TREATMENT OF CAPTIVES. 
 
 213 
 
 gun until it became red hot, with which they 
 burned him on the legs, thighs, neck, cheeks, and 
 belly. They then commenced cutting the flesh 
 from about the nails, which they pulled out, and 
 next separated the Angers from the hand joint by 
 joint. During the performance of these cruelties 
 the wretched captive never winced, and instead 
 of suing for mercy, he added fresh stimulants to 
 their barbarous ingenuity by the most irritating 
 reproaches, part of which our interpreter trans- 
 lates as follows : — "My heart is strong. — You do 
 not hurt me.— -You can*t hurt me.— -You are fools. 
 — ^You do not know how to torture. — Try it 
 again. — I don't feel any pain yet. — We torture 
 your relations a great deal better, because we 
 make them cry out loud, like little children. — ^ 
 You are not brave : you have small hearts, and 
 you are always afraid to fight.** Then address- 
 ing one in particular, he said, " It was by my 
 arrow you lost your eye j" upon which the Flat- 
 head darted at him, and with a knife in a moment 
 scooped out one of his eyes \ at the same time 
 cutting the bridge of his nose nearly in two. 
 This did not stop him : with the remaining eye 
 he looked sternly at another, and said, " I killed 
 your brother, and I scalped your old fool of a 
 father.** The warrior to whom this was ad- 
 
b * 
 
 h i 
 
 2i4> 
 
 HORRIBLE CRUELTIES. 
 
 dressed instantly sprung at him, and separated 
 the scalp from his head. He was then about 
 plunging a knife in his heart, until he was told 
 by the chief to desist. The raw skull, bloody 
 socket, and mutilated nose, now presented a 
 horrific appearance, but by no means changed 
 his tone of defiance. — " It was I," said he to the 
 chief, ** that made your wife a prisoner last fall ; 
 — we put out her eyes j — we tore out her tongue ; 
 we treated her like a dog. Forty of our young 
 warriors- 
 
 » 
 
 The chieftain became incensed the moment his 
 wife's name was mentioned : he seized his gun, 
 and, before the last sentence was ended, a ball 
 from it passed through the brave fellow s heart, 
 and terminated his frightful sufferings. Shock- 
 ing, however as this dreadful exibition was, it 
 was far exceeded by the atrocious cruelties prac- 
 tised on the female prisoners; in which I am 
 sorry to say, the Flat-head women assisted with 
 more savage fury than the men. I only witnessed 
 part of what one wretched young woman suffered^ 
 a detail of which would be too revolting for pub- 
 licity. We remonstrated against the exercise of 
 such horrible cruelties. They replied by saying 
 the Black-feet treated their relations in the same 
 manner ; that it was the coiirF.e adopted by ' all 
 
SUCCESSFUL REMONSTRANCE. 
 
 215 
 
 arated 
 
 about 
 18 told 
 bloody 
 nted a 
 langed 
 
 to the 
 St fall ; 
 angue ; 
 
 young 
 
 aent his 
 kis gun, 
 , a ball 
 s heart. 
 Shock- 
 was, it 
 es prac- 
 h I am 
 ed with 
 itnessed 
 jufFered, 
 for pub- 
 grcise of 
 Y saying 
 he same 
 i by all 
 
 red warriors ; and that they could not think of 
 giving up the gratification of their revenge to tho 
 foolish and womanish feelings of white men. 
 Shortly after this we observed a young female led 
 forth, apparently not more than fourteen or fif- 
 teen years of age, surrounded by some old women, 
 who were conducting her to one end of the vil- 
 lage, whither they were followed by a number 
 of young men. Having learned the infamous in- 
 tentions of her conquerors, and feeling interested 
 for the unfortunate victim, we renewed our re- 
 monstrances ; but received nearly the same 
 answer as before. Finding them still inflexible, 
 and wishing to adopt every means in our power 
 consistent with safety in the cause of humanity, 
 we ordered our interpreter to acquaint them, that, 
 highly as we valued their friendship, and much as 
 we esteemed their furs, we would quit their coun- 
 try for ever, unless they discontinued their un- 
 manly and disgraceful cruelties to their prisoners. 
 This had the desired effect, and the miserable 
 captive was led back to her sorrowing group of 
 friends. Our interference was nearly rendered 
 ineffectual by the furious reproaches of the infer- 
 nal old priestesses who had been conducting her 
 to the sacrifice. They told the young warriors 
 they were cowards, fools, and had not the hearts 
 
I ! 
 
 31() 
 
 DECREASE OF POPULATION. 
 
 of fleas; and called upon them in the names, 
 of their mothers, sisters, and wives, to follow the 
 steps of their forefathers, and have their revenge 
 on the dogs of Black-feet. They began to waver ; 
 but we affected not to understand what the old 
 women had been saying. We told them that this 
 act of self-denial on their part was peculiarly 
 grateful to the white men ; and that by it they 
 would secure our permanent residence among 
 them, and in return for their furs be always fur- 
 nished with guns and ammunition sufficient to 
 repel the attacks of their old enemies, and pre- 
 serve their relations from being made prisoners. 
 This decided the doubtful ; and the chief pro- 
 mised faithfully that no more tortures should be 
 inflicted on the prisoners, which I believe was 
 rigidly adhered to, at least for that winter. 
 
 The Flat-heads were formerly much more nu- 
 merous than they were at this period ; but owing 
 to the constant hostilities between them and the 
 Black-feet Indians, their numbers had been 
 greatly diminished. While pride, policy, ambi- 
 tion, self-preservation, or the love of aggrandise- 
 ment, often deluges the civilised world with 
 Christian blood ; the only cause assigned by the 
 natives of whom I write, for their perpetual war^ 
 fare, i^s their love of buffalo. There are extensive 
 
ANNUAL CONFLICTS. 
 
 217 
 
 
 plains to the eastward of the mountains frequen- 
 ted in the summer and autumnal months by 
 numerous herds of buffaloes. Hither the rival 
 tribes repair to hunt those animals, that they may 
 procure as much of their meat as will supply 
 them until the succeeding season. In these ex- 
 cursions they often meet, and the most sanguinary 
 conflicts follow. 
 
 . The Black-feet lay claim to all that part of the 
 country immediately at the foot of the mountains, 
 which is most frequented by the buffalo j and 
 allege that the Flat-heads, by resorting thither 
 to hunt, are intruders whom they are bound to 
 opp'ise on all occasions. The latter, on the con- 
 trary, assert, that their forefathers had always 
 claimed and exercised the right of hunting on 
 these ** debateable laads '" and that while one 
 of their warriors remained alive the right should 
 not be relinquished. The consequences of these 
 continual wars are dreadful, particularly to the 
 Hat-heads, who, being the weaker in numbers 
 were generally the greater sufferers. Indepen- 
 dently of their inferiority in this respect, their 
 enemy had another great advantage in the use 
 of fire-arms, which they obtained from the Com- 
 pany's trading posts established in the depart- 
 ment of Forts des Prairies. To these the Flat- 
 
S18 
 
 INDIAN WARFARE. 
 
 : 
 
 heads had nothing to oppose but arrows and their 
 own undaunted bravery. Every year previous 
 to our crossing the mountains witnessed the gra- 
 dual diminution of their numbers ; and total an- 
 nihilation would shortly have been the conse- 
 quence, but for our arrival with a plentiful supply 
 of " villanous saltpetre." They were overjoyed 
 at having an opportunity of purchasing arms and 
 ammunition, and quickly stocked themselves with 
 a sufficient quantity of both. 
 
 From this moment affairs took a decided change 
 in their favour ; and in their subsequent contests 
 the numbers of killed, wounded, and prisoners, 
 were more equal. The Black-feet became en- 
 raged at this, and declared to our people at Forts 
 des Prairies, that all white men who might happen 
 to fall into their hands, to the westward of the 
 mountains, would be trepted by them as enemies, 
 in consequence of their furnishing the Flat-heads 
 with weapons, which were used with such deadly 
 oflfect against their nation. This threat, as 
 will appear hereafter, was strictly put in exe- 
 cution. The lands of the Flat-heads are well 
 stocked with deer, mountain sheep, bears, wild 
 fowl, and fish j and when we endeavoured to 
 induce them to give up such dangerous expedi- 
 tioiu>, and confine themselves to the produce of 
 
 
 i 
 
THE FLAT-HEADS. 
 
 219 
 
 their own country, they replied, that their fu- 
 thers had always hunted on the buffalo grounds ; 
 that they were accustomed to do the same thing 
 from their infancy; and they would not now 
 abandon a practice which had existed for several 
 generations among their people. 
 
 With the exception of the cruel treatment of 
 their prisoners, (which, as it is general among all 
 savages, must not be imputed to them as a pecu- 
 liar vice,) the Flat-heads have fewer failings than 
 any of the tribes I ever met with. They are 
 honest in their dealings, brave in the field, quiet 
 and amenable to their chiefs, fond of cleanliness, 
 and decided enemies to falsehood of every de- 
 scription. The women are excellent wives and 
 mothers, and their character for fidelity is so well 
 established, that we never heard an instance of 
 one of them proving unfaithful to her husband. 
 They are also free from the vice of backbiting, 
 so common among the lower tribes ; and laziness 
 is a stranger among them. Both sexes are com- 
 paratively very fair, and their complexions are a 
 shade lighter than the palest new copper after 
 being freshly rubbed. They are remarkably well 
 made, rather slender, and never corpulent. The 
 dress of the men consists solely of long leggings, 
 called mittasses by the Canadians, which reach 
 
 W 
 
220 
 
 CHARACTEU AND DRESS. 
 
 from the ancles to the hips, and are fastened by 
 strings to a leathern belt round the waist, and a 
 shirt of dressed deer-skin^ with loose hanging 
 sleeves, which falls down to their knees. The 
 outside seams of the leggings and shirt sleeves 
 have fringes of leather. TTie women are covered 
 by a loose robe of the same material reaching 
 from the neck to the feet, and ornamented with 
 fringes, beads, hawk-bells, and thimbles. The 
 dressess of both are regularly cleaned with pipe- 
 clay, which abounds in parts of the country j and 
 every individual has two or three changes. They 
 have no permanent covering for the head, but in 
 wet or stormy weather shelter it by part of a 
 buffalo robe, which completely answers all the 
 purposes of a surtout. The principal chief of the 
 tribe is hereditary j but from their constant wars, 
 they have adopted the wise and salutary custom 
 of electing, as their leader in battle, that warrior 
 in whom the greatest portion of wisdom, strength, 
 and bravery are combined. The election takes 
 place every year ; and it sometimes occurs that 
 the general in one campaign becomes a private in 
 the next. This *' war-chief," as they term him, 
 has no authority whatever when at home, and is 
 as equally amenable as any of the tribe to the- 
 hereditary chief; but when the warriors set out 
 
GOVERNMENT. 
 
 221 
 
 on their hunting excursions to the buffalo plaint!, 
 he assumes the supreme command, which he ex- 
 ercises with despotic sway until their return. He 
 carries a long- whip with a thick handle decorated 
 with scalps and feathers, and generally appoints 
 two active warriors as aides-de-camp. On their 
 advance towards the enemy he always takes 
 the lead ; and on their return he brings up the 
 rear. Great regularity is preserved during the 
 march ; and I have been informed b} Mr. 
 M'Donald, who accompanied some of these 
 war parties to the field of action, that if any 
 of the tribe fell out of the ranks, or committed 
 any other breach of discipline, he instantly re- 
 ceived a fiaggellation from the whip of the chief- 
 tain. He always acted with the most perfect 
 impartiality, and would punish one of his subal- 
 terns for disobedience of orders with equal se- 
 verity as any other offender. Custom, however, 
 joined to a sense of public duty, had reconciled 
 them to these arbitrary acts of power, which they 
 never complained of or attempted to resent. After 
 the conclusion of the campaign, on their arrival on 
 their own lands, his authority ceases ; when the 
 peace chief calls aii the tribe together, and they 
 proceed to a new election. There is no canvass- 
 ing, caballing, or intriguing ; and should the last 
 
I 
 
 ' < 
 
 I 
 
 r i 
 
 I; 
 
 I, 
 
 !■■■ 
 
 r 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 !: 
 
 
 I' 
 
 ^2 
 
 THE WAR CHIEF. 
 
 leader be superseded, he retires from office with 
 apparent indifference, and without betraying any 
 symptoms of discontent. The fighting chief at 
 this period had been five times re-elected. He 
 was about thirty-five years of age, and had killed 
 twenty of the Black-feet in various battles, the 
 scalps of whom were suspended in triumphal 
 pride, from a pole at the door of his lodge. His 
 wife had been captured by the enemy the year 
 before, and her loss made a deep impression on 
 him. He was highly respected by all the 
 warriors for his superior wisdom and bravery ; 
 a consciousness of which, joined to the length of 
 time he had been accustomed to command, im- 
 parted to his manners a degree of dignity which 
 we never remarked in any other Indian. He 
 would not take a second wife ; and when the re- 
 collection of the one he had lost came across his 
 mind, he retired into the deepest solitude of the 
 woods to indulge his sorrow, where some of the 
 tribe informed us they often found him calling 
 on her spirit to appear, and invoking vengeance 
 on her conquerors. When these bursts of grief 
 subsided, his countenance assumed a tinge of 
 stern melancholy, strongly indicating the mingled 
 amotions of sorrow and unmitign.ted hatred of 
 the Black-feet. We invited him sometimes to 
 
WARFARE. 
 
 223 
 
 the fort, upon which occasions we S}mpathi8ed 
 with him on his loss ; but at the same time ac- 
 quainted him with the manner in which civilized 
 nations made war. We told him that warriors 
 only were made prisoners, who were never tor- 
 tured or killed, and that no brave white man 
 would ever injure a female or a defenceless man ; 
 that if such a custom had prevailed among them, 
 he would now by the exchange of prisoners be 
 able to recover his wife, who was by their barba- 
 rous system lost to ^im for ever ; and if it were 
 possible to brjng about a peace with their 
 n^mies the frightful horrors of war might at 
 least be considerably softened by adopting the 
 practice of Europeans. We added that he had 
 now a glorious opportunity of commencing the 
 career of magnanimity by sending home un- 
 injured the captives he had made during the last 
 campaign ; that our friends on the other side 
 of the mountains would exert their influence 
 with the Black-feet to induce them to follow his 
 example and that ultimately it might be the means 
 of uniting the two rival nations in the bonds of 
 peace. He was at first opposed to making any 
 advances ; but on farther pressing he consented 
 to make the trial, provided the hereditary chief 
 and the tribe started no objections. On quitting 
 
 # 
 
y 
 
 224 
 
 SUCCESSFUL REMONSTRANCE. 
 
 US he made use of the following words : " My 
 white friends, you do not know the savage na- 
 ture of the Black-feet ; they hope to exterminate 
 our tribe ; they are a great deal more numerous 
 than we are ; and were it not for our bravery, 
 their object would have been long ago achieved. 
 We shall now, according to your wishes, send 
 back the prisoners ; but remember, I tell you, 
 that they will laugh at the interference of your 
 relations beyond the mountains, and never spare 
 a man, woman, or child, that they can take of 
 our nation. Your exertions to save blood show 
 you are good people. If they follow our ex- 
 ample, we shall kill no more prisoners ; but I 
 tell you, they will laugh at you and call you 
 fools." 
 
 We were much pleased at having carried 
 our point so far \ while he, true to his 
 word, assembled the elders and warriors, to 
 whom he represented the subject of our dis- 
 course, and after a long speech, advised them 
 to make the trial, which would please their 
 white friends, and show their readiness to 
 avoid unnecessary cruelty. Such an unex- 
 pected proposition gave rise to an ani 
 mated debate, which continued for some time ; 
 but being supported by a man for whom they 
 
 " 
 
PACIFIC OVERTURE. 
 
 225 
 
 My 
 na- 
 nate 
 rous 
 ^ery, 
 3ved. 
 send 
 you, 
 your 
 spare 
 ake of 
 . show 
 ir ex- 
 but I 
 .11 you 
 
 carried 
 his 
 jrs, to 
 ur dis- 
 them 
 their 
 less to 
 unex- 
 n ani 
 I time ; 
 >m they 
 
 entertained so much respect, it was finally car- 
 ried ; and it was determined to send home the 
 Black'feet on the breaking up of the winter. 
 We un artook to furnish them with horses and 
 provisions for their journey, or to pay the Flat- 
 heads a fair price for so doing. This was agreed 
 to, and about the mindle of March the prisoners 
 took their departure tolerably well mounted, and 
 with dried meat enough to bring them to their 
 friends. Mr. M'Millan, who had passed three 
 years in their country, and was acquainted with 
 their language, informed them of the exertions 
 we had used to save their lives, and prevent 
 farther repetitions of torture : and requested them 
 particularly to mention the circumstance to their 
 countrymen, in order that they might adopt a 
 similar proceeding. We also wrote letters by 
 them to the gentlemen in charge of the different 
 establishments at Forts des Prairies, detailing our 
 success, and impressing on them the necessity of 
 their attempting to induce the Black-feet in their 
 vicinity to follow the example set them by the 
 Flat-heads. The lands of this tribe present a 
 pleasing diversity of woods and plains, valieys 
 and mountains, lakes and rivers. Besides the 
 animals already mentioned, there are abundance 
 of beavers, otters, martens, wolves, lynxes. Sec. 
 
 VOL. 1. Q 
 
 •«■ 
 
226 
 
 CROSS-BRED DOC, 
 
 "i I 
 
 1 I 
 
 IJ 
 
 The wolves of this district are very large and 
 daring ; and were in great numbers in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of the fort, to which they often ap- 
 proached closely, for the purpose of carrying 
 away the offals. We had a fine dog of mixed 
 breed, whose sire was a native of Newfoundland, 
 and whose dam was a wolf, which had been 
 caught young, and domesticated by Mr. La 
 Rocque, at Lac la Ronge, on the English River. 
 He had many rencontres with his maternal tribe, 
 in which he was generally worsted. On ob- 
 serving a wolf near the fort, he darted at it with 
 great courage : if it was a male, he fought hard ; 
 but if a female, he either allowed it to retreat 
 harmless, or commenced fondling it. He some- 
 times was absent for a week or ten days ; and on 
 his return, his body and neck appeared gashed 
 with wounds inflicted by the tusks of his male 
 rivals in their amorous encounters in the woods 
 
 • 
 
 He was a noble animal, but always appeared 
 more ready to attack a wolf than a lynx. 
 
 Our stock of sugar and molasses having 
 failed, we were obliged to have recourse to the 
 extract of birch to supply the deficiency. This 
 was obtained by perforating the trunks of the 
 birch trees in different places. Small slips of 
 bark were then introduced into each perforation. 
 
PHARMACY. 
 
 227 
 
 ;e and 
 
 imme- 
 
 en ap- 
 
 trry'mg 
 mixed 
 
 idland, 
 
 1 been 
 
 ^r. La 
 
 I River. 
 
 al tribe, 
 On ob- 
 
 t it witb 
 
 tit hard j 
 
 ) retreat 
 
 [e some- 
 andon 
 gashed 
 lis male 
 e woods, 
 appeared 
 
 having 
 36 to the 
 
 -y- 
 
 This 
 
 ts of the 
 
 slips of 
 
 rforation* 
 
 and underneath kettles were placed to receive 
 the juice. This was afterwards boileJ down to 
 the consistency of molasses, and was used with 
 our tea as a substitute for sugar : it is a bitter 
 sweet, and answered its purpose tolerably well. 
 
 The Flat-heads are a healthy tribe, and subject 
 to few diseases. Common fractures, caused by 
 an occasional pitch o£f a horse, or a fall down a 
 declivity in the ard 'ir of hunting, are cured by 
 tight bandages and pieces of wood like staves 
 placed longitudinally around the part, to which 
 they are secured by leathern thongs. For con- 
 tusions they generally bleed, either in the tem- 
 ples, arms, wrists, or ancles, with pieces of sharp 
 flint, or heads of arrows : they however preferred 
 being bled with the lancet, and frequently brought 
 us patients, who were much pleased with that 
 mode of operation. Very little snow fell after 
 Christmas ; but the cold was intense, with a clear 
 atmosphere. I experienced some acute rheumatic 
 attacks in the shoulders and knees, from which 
 I suffered much annoyance. An old Indian pro- 
 posed to relieve me, provided I consented to fol- 
 low the mode of cure practised by him in similar 
 cases on the young warriors of the tribe. On 
 inquiring the method he intended to pursue, he 
 replied that it merely consisted in getting up 
 
 Q 2 
 
COLD HATHING. 
 
 early every morning for some weeks, and plung- 
 ing into the river, and to leave the rest to him. 
 This was a most chilling proposition, for the 
 river was firmly frozen, and an opening to be 
 made in the ice preparatory to each immersion. 
 I asked him, " Would it not answer equally well 
 to have the water brought to my bed-room ?" 
 But he shook his head, and replied, he was sur- 
 prised that a young white chief, who ought to 
 be wise, should ask so foolish a question. On 
 reflecting, however, that rheumatism was a 
 stranger among Indians, while numbers of our 
 people were martyrs to it, and, above all, that I 
 was upwards of three thousand miles from any 
 professional assistance, I determined to adopt the 
 disagreeable expedient, and commenced opera- 
 tions the following morning. The Indian first 
 broke a hole in the ice sufiiciently large to admit 
 us both, upon which he made a signal that all 
 was ready. Enveloped in a large buflalo robe, 
 I proceeded to the spot, and throwing off my 
 covering, we both jumped into the frigid orifice 
 together. He immediately commenced rubbing 
 my shoulders, back, and loins : my hair in the 
 mean time became ornamented with icicles ; and 
 while the lovvor joints were undergoing their 
 friction, my face, neck, and shoulders were in- 
 
CURE FOR RHEUMATISM. 
 
 2'i9 
 
 id pl«ng- 
 
 it to him. 
 
 , for the 
 
 ng to be 
 
 nmersion. 
 
 ^ually well 
 
 ed-room ?" 
 
 ie was Bur- 
 
 ought to 
 
 stion. On 
 
 sm was a 
 
 bers of oiu* 
 
 re all, that I 
 
 \es from any 
 to adopt the 
 
 jnced opera- 
 Indian first 
 Yge to admit 
 
 [gnal that all 
 buffalo robe, 
 ,wing off my 
 ^ frigid orifice 
 peed rubbing 
 iy hair in the 
 |h icicles •, and 
 jergoing their 
 iders were in- 
 
 cased in a thin covering of ice. On getting re- 
 leased I rolled a blanket about me, and ran back 
 to the bedroom, in which I had previously or- 
 dered a good fire, and in a few minutes I ex- 
 perienced a warm glow all over my body. Chill- 
 ing and disagreeable as these matinal ablutions 
 were, yet, as I found them so beneficial, I con- 
 tinued them for twenty-five days, at the expira- 
 tion of which my physician was j/leased to say that 
 no more were necessary, and that I had done my 
 duty like a wise man. I was never after trouMed 
 with a rheumatic pain I One of oor old Cana- 
 dians; who had been labouring many years under 
 a chronic rheumatism, asked the Indian if he 
 could cure him in the same manner : the latter 
 replied it was impossible, but that he would try 
 another process. He accordingly constructed 
 the skeleton of a hut about four and a half feet 
 high, and three broad, in shape like a bee-hive, 
 which he covered with deer-skins. He then 
 heated some stones in an adjoining fire, and 
 having placed the patient inside in a state of nu- 
 dity, the hot stones were thrown in, and water 
 poured on them : the entrance was then quickly 
 closed, and the man kept in for some time until 
 he begged to be released, alleging that he was 
 nearly suffocated. On coming out he was in a 
 
■•"« 
 
 230 
 
 BELIEF. 
 
 
 UA 
 
 \\ 
 
 state of profuse perspiration. The Indian or- 
 dered him to be immediately enveloped in 
 blankets and conveyed to bed. This operation 
 was repeated several times, and although it did 
 not effect a radical cure, the violence of the pains 
 was so far abated, as to permit the patient to fol- 
 low his ordinary business, and to enjoy his sleep 
 in comparative ease. 
 
 The Flat-heads believe in the existence of a 
 good and evil spirit, and consequently in a future 
 state of rewards and punishments. They hold, 
 that after death the good Indian goes to a country 
 in which there will be perpetual summer ; that 
 he will meet his wife and children ; that th^ 
 rivers will abound with fish, and the plains with 
 the much-loved buffalo ; and that he ivill spend 
 his time in hunting and fishing, free from the 
 terrors of war, or the apprehensions of cold or 
 famine. The bad man, they believe, will go to 
 a place covered with eternal snow ; that he will 
 always be shivering with cold, and will see fires 
 at a distance which he cannot enjoy ; water 
 which he cannot procure to quench his thirst, 
 and buffalo and deer which he cannot kill to 
 appease his Kunger. :,iAn impenetrable wood, 
 full of wolves, panthers,, and serpents, separates 
 these " shrinkjiiig" slaves of winter" from their 
 
 
 
BEAV£R«r. 
 
 '23 i 
 
 I or- 
 id in 
 ation 
 t did . 
 pains 
 ;o fol- 
 sleep 
 
 3 of a 
 
 future 
 hold, 
 
 Duntry 
 ; that 
 
 lat the 
 
 18 with 
 spend 
 
 )Tn the 
 
 cold or 
 go to 
 
 ne will 
 
 ee fires 
 
 water 
 
 thirst, 
 
 kill to 
 
 wood, 
 
 parates 
 
 m their 
 
 
 fortunate brethren in the " meadows of ease." 
 Their punishment is not however eternal, and 
 according to the different shades of their crimes 
 they are sooner or later emancipated, and per- 
 mitted to join their friends in the Elysian fields. 
 
 Their code of morality, althoug-h short, is com- 
 prehensive. They say that honesty, bravery, 
 love of truth, attention to parents, obedience to 
 their chiefs, and affection for their wives and 
 children, are the principle virtues which entitle 
 them to the place of happiness, while the opposite 
 vices condemn them to that of misery. They 
 have a curious tradition with respect to beavers. 
 They firmly believe that these animals are a 
 fallen race of Indians, who, in consequence of 
 their wickedness, vexed the Good Spirit, and 
 were condemned by him to their present shape ; 
 but that in due time they will be restored to 
 their humanity. They allege that he-beavers 
 have the powers of speech ; and that they have 
 heard them talk with each other, and seen them 
 sitting in council on an offending member. 
 
 The lovers of natural history are already well 
 acquainted with the surprising sagacity of these 
 wonderful animals j with their dexterity in cut- 
 ting down trees, their skill in constructing their 
 houses, and their foresight in collecting and stor- 
 
11 : 
 
 I 
 
 \ 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 aasmi 
 
 I 
 
 f I 
 
 Sds 
 
 BEAVKUS. 
 
 ing provisions sufficient to lust them during the 
 winter months : but few are aware, I should 
 imagine, of a remarkable custom among them, 
 which, more than any other, confirms the Indians 
 in believing them a fallen race. Towards the 
 latter end of autumn a certain number, varying 
 from twenty to thirty, assemble for the purpose 
 of building their winter habitations. They imme- 
 diately commence cutting down trees ; and no- 
 thing can be more wonderful than the skill and 
 patience which they manifest in this laborious 
 undertaking ; to see them anxiously looking up, 
 watching the loaning of the tree when the trunk 
 is nearly severed, and, when its creaking an» 
 nounces its approaching fall, to observe them 
 scampering oflF in all directions to avoid being 
 crushed. 
 
 When the tree is prostrate they quickly strip it 
 of its branches ; after which, with their dental 
 chisels, they divide the trunk into several pieces 
 of equal lengths, which they roll to the rivulet 
 across which they intend to erect their house. 
 Two or three old ones generally superintend the 
 others ; and it is no imusual sight to see them 
 beating those who exhibit any symptoms of lazi- 
 ness. Should, however, any fellow be incorri- 
 gible, and persist in refusing to Avork, he is driven 
 
INDIAN DESIGNATIONS. 
 
 U33 
 
 louse. 
 id the 
 
 them 
 ^f lazi- 
 icorri- 
 
 Iriven 
 
 unanimouBly by the whole tribe to seek shelter 
 and provisions elsewhere. These outlaws are 
 therefore obliged to pass a miserable winter, half 
 starved in a burrow on the bunks of some stream, 
 where they are easily trapped. The Indians call 
 them " lazy beaver," and their fur i i not half so 
 valuable as that of the other animalv whose per- 
 severing industry and jwevoyance secure the^ i 
 provisions and a comfortable shelter during ' he 
 severity of winter. 
 
 I could not discover why the Slack^eet and 
 Flat-heads received their respective designat on© ; 
 for the feet of the former are no more inclined to 
 sable than any other part of the body, while the 
 heads of the latter possess their fair proportion 
 of rotundity. Indeed it is only below the fulls 
 and rapids that real flat-heads appear, and at the 
 mouth of the Columbia that they flourish most 
 supernaturally. 
 
 Pierre Michel, the hunter, wa» the son of a 
 respectable Canadian by an Indiun >iiother. He 
 also held the situation of interpreter, and was a 
 most valuable servant to the Company. Michel 
 accompanied the Flat-he;; d> on two of their war 
 campaigns, and by his unerring aim and undaunted 
 bravery won the affection of the whole tribe. The 
 war chief in particular paid great attention to his 
 
 si 
 
 
H' 
 
 IN' 
 
 234 
 
 PIERRE MICHEL. 
 
 opinion, and consulted him in any difficult matter. 
 Mlv;hel wanted a wife ; and having succeeded in 
 gaining the affections of a handsome girl about 
 sixteen years of age, and niece to the hereditary 
 chieftain, he made a formal proposal for her. A 
 council was thereupon called, at which her uncle 
 presided, to take Michel's offer into consideration. 
 One young warrior loved her ardently, and had 
 obtained a previous promise from her mother that 
 she should be his. He, therefore, with all his 
 relations, strongly opposed her union with Pierre, 
 and urged his own -claims, which had been sanc- 
 tioned by her mother. The war-chief asked him 
 if she had ever promised to become his wife : he 
 replied in the negative. The chief then addressed 
 the council, and particularly the lover, in favour 
 of Michel's suit ; pointing out the great services 
 he had rendered the tribe by his bravery, and 
 dwelling strongly on the policy of uniting him 
 more firmly to their interests by consenting to 
 the proposed marriage, which he said would for 
 ever make him as one of their brothers. His 
 influence predominated, and the unsuccessful 
 rival immediately after shook hands with Michel, 
 and told the young woman, as he could not be 
 her husband, he hoped she would always regard 
 him as u brother. This she readily promised to 
 
MARRIAGE RITES. 
 
 235 
 
 do, and so ended the opposition. The happy 
 Pierre presented a gun to her uncle, some cloth, 
 calico, and ornaments to her female relatives ; 
 with a pistol and handsome dagger to his friend. 
 He proceeded in the evening to the chief's lodge, 
 where a number of her friends had assembled to 
 smoke. Here she received a lecture from the 
 old man, her mother, and a few other ancients, 
 on her duty as a wife and mother. They 
 strongly exhorted her to be chaste, obedient, 
 industrious, and silent; and when absent with 
 her husband among other tribes, always to stay 
 at home, and have no intercourse with strange 
 Indians. She then retired with the old women 
 to an adjoining hut, where she underwent an 
 ablution, and bade adieu to her leathern chemise, 
 the place of which was supplied by one of ging- 
 ham, to which was added a calico and green 
 cloth petticoat, and a gown of blue cloth. After 
 this was over, she was conducted back to her 
 uncle's lodge, when she received some further 
 advice as to her future conduct. A procession 
 was then formed by the two chiefs, and several 
 warriors carrying blazing flambeaux of cedar, to 
 convey the bride and her husband to the fort. 
 They began singing war sons in praise of Michel's 
 bravery, and of their triumphs over the Black- 
 
236 
 
 MARRIAGE RITES. 
 
 feet. She was surrounded by a group of young 
 and old women, some of whom were rejoicing, 
 and others crying. The men moved on first, in 
 a slow solemn pace, still chaunting their warlike 
 epithalamium. The women followed at a short 
 distance ; and when the whole party arrived in 
 front of the fort, they formed a circle, and com- 
 menced dancing and singing, which they kept up 
 about twenty minutes. After this the calumet 
 of peace went round once more, and when the 
 smoke of the last whiff had disappeared, Michel 
 shook hands with his late rival, embraced the 
 chiefs, and conducted his bride to his room. 
 While I remained in the country they lived 
 happily together ; and as I mean to finish this 
 chapter here, I may as well state that he was the 
 only person of our party to whom the Flat-heads 
 would give one of their women in marriage. 
 Several of our men made applications, but were 
 always refused. 
 
 H 
 
Jf'UIlNEY RENEWED. 
 
 237 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Etfect of snow on theeyes— Description of a winter at Oakin- 
 agan — News from the sea — Capture of Astoria by the Ra- 
 coon sloop of war — Offer of Chinooks to cut off the British 
 — A party attacked ; Mr. Stewart wounded ; two Indians 
 killed — Arrival of Mr. Hunt — Shipwreck of the Lark — 
 Massacre of Mr. Read and eight of his men — Extraordinary 
 escape of Dorrien's widow and children. 
 
 On the 4th of April 1814, we took leave of our 
 Flat-head friends, on our way to Spokan House, 
 while they proceeded to make preparations for 
 the ensuing summer's campaign. We pursued 
 our route partly by land, and partly by water. 
 In some places, the snow had entirely disap- 
 peared J but in others, particularly the dense 
 forests, it was covered with a slight incrustation. 
 The sun was very hot, and where its rays were 
 reflected from the congealed, or partly dissolved 
 masses of snow, it caused a very painful sensation 
 in the eyes of all, and nearly blinded half the party. 
 My sight was partially injured, and my nose, lips, 
 and cheeks so severely scorched, that I did not 
 recover from the effects for more than a month 
 after. We arrived safely at Spokan House on 
 
 , ill 
 
 > i| 
 
 i 1 
 
238 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 11 
 
 a I 
 
 t ( 
 
 
 i,i 
 
 r, 
 
 ' i 
 
 I! 
 
 I/' 
 
 i,i 
 
 the 15tli, where I found a couple of letters which 
 had been written to me by my friend M*Gilliv^- 
 ray from Oakinagan, at which place he had win- 
 tered ; but which, from want of a conveyance, 
 could not be forwarded to me from Spokan. 
 Although accustomed to the style of living on 
 the eastern side of the mountains, and well ac- 
 quainted with Indians, this was his first winter 
 on the Columbia ; and, for the information of 
 some of my readers, I shall give an extract from 
 one of his letters ; viz. 
 
 '* Oakinagan, Feb. 18] 4. 
 " This is a horribly dull place. Here 1 have 
 been, since you parted from us, perfectly solus. 
 My men, half Canadians and half Sandwich island- 
 ers. The library wretched, and no chance of my 
 own books till next year, when the Athabasca 
 men cross the mountains. If you, or my friends 
 at Spokan, do not send me a few volumes, I shall 
 absolutely die of ennui. The Indians here are 
 incontestably the most indolent rascals I ever 
 met : and I assure you it requires no small de- 
 gree of authority, with the few men I have, to 
 keep them in order. Montignier left me on the 
 23rd of December to proceed to Mr. M'Donald 
 at Kamloops. On his way he was attacked by 
 
 
CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 239 
 
 tlio Indians at Oakinagan Lake, and robbed of a 
 number of his horses. The natives in that quar- 
 ter seem to entertain no great friendship for us, 
 and this is not their first attempt to trespass on our 
 good-nature. My two Canadians were out hunt- 
 ing at the period of the robbery ; and the whole 
 of my household troops merely consisted of Bona- 
 parte ! Washington 1 1 and CcBsar !!! * Great 
 names, you will say ; but 1 inust confess, that 
 much as I think of the two great moderns, and 
 highly as I respect the memory of the immortal 
 Julius, among these thieving scoundrels * a rose 
 by any other name, would smell as sweet.' The 
 snow is between two and three feet deep, and 
 my trio of Owhyee generals find a sensible differ- 
 ence between such hyperborean weather and the 
 pleasing sunshine of their own tropical paradise. 
 Poor fellows I They are not adapted for these 
 latitudes, and I heartily wish they were at home 
 in their own sweet islands, and sporting in the 
 * blue summer ocean* that surrounds them. 
 
 " I have not as yet made a pack of beaver. 
 The lazy Indians won't work ; and as for the 
 emperor, president, and dictator, they know as 
 much about trapping as the monks oiLa Trappe, 
 
 * The individuals bearing these formidable names were 
 merely three unsophisticated natives of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 
 ii 
 
Tj H— IIIMIM 
 
 W— atniJiii.niiliiii 
 
 1/ 
 
 240 
 
 ARRIVALS. 
 
 It ; 
 
 J 1 
 
 I have hitherto principally subsisted on horse- 
 flesh. 1 cannot say it agrees with me, for it 
 nearly produced a dysentery. I have had plenty 
 of pork, rice, arrow-root, flour, taro-root, tea, 
 and coffee ; no sugar. With such a variety of 
 bonnes choses you will say I ought not to com- 
 plain ; but want of society has destroyed my relish 
 for luxuries, and the only articles I taste above 
 par are souchong and molasses. What a contrast 
 between the manner I spent last year and this I 
 In the first, with all the pride of a newly-created 
 subaltern, occasionally fighting the Yankees a la 
 mode du pays ; and anon sporting my silver 
 wings between some admiring paysanne along 
 the frontiers. Then what a glorious winter in 
 Montreal, with captured Jonathans, triumphant 
 Britons, astonished Indians, gaping hahitans^ agi- 
 tated beauties j balls, routs, dinners, suppers ; 
 parades, drums beating, colours flying, with all 
 the other * pride, pomp, and circumstance of glo- 
 rious war 1'— but * Othello's occupation's gone !' 
 and here I am, with a shivering guard of poor 
 islanders, buried in snow, sipping molasses, 
 smoking tobacco, and masticating horse-flesh I — 
 But I am sick of the contrast." 
 
 On the 24th of April, Messrs. David Stuart 
 
NAVAL AFFAIRS. 
 
 241 
 
 Stuart 
 
 and Clarke arrived on horseback with three men. 
 They informed us that they had left Fort George 
 on the 4th in company with Mr. John George 
 M*Tavish and the gentlemen lately belonging 
 to the Pacific Fur Company, who were British 
 subjects, and who were on their return home to 
 Canada. They left the main party about a day's 
 march above Lewis River, for the purpose of 
 procuring provisions at Spokan, with which they 
 were to meet the canoes at the Kettle Falls, and 
 from thence proceed up the Columbia on their 
 route to Canada. The intelligence brought by 
 these gentlemen was by no means of a pleasing 
 description. At the period of their departure 
 from the sea the Isaac Tod had not arrived, nor 
 had any accounts been received of her. That 
 vessel sailed from London in March 1813, in 
 companj with the Phcebe frigate and the Cherub 
 and Racoon sloops of war. They arrived safe 
 at Rio Janeiro, and thence proceeded round 
 Cape Horn to the Pacific, having previously 
 made arrangements to meet at Juan Fernandez. 
 The three men-of-war reached the latter island 
 after encountering dreadful gales about the Cape. 
 They waited here some time for the arrival of 
 the Isaac Tod -, but as she did not make her ap- 
 pearance. Commodore Hillier did not deem it 
 
 VOL. 1. R 
 
 T 
 
H 
 
 242 
 
 ARRIVAL OF THE RACOON. 
 
 prudent to remain any longer inactive. He, 
 therefore, in company with the Cherub, pro- 
 ceeded in search of Commodore Porter, who, in 
 the American frigate Essex, was c]eQ.ring the 
 South Sea of the English whalers, and inflicting 
 other injuries of a serious nature on our com- 
 merce.* * 
 
 At the same time he ordered Captain Black in 
 the Racoon to proceed direct to the Columbia, 
 for the purpose of destroying the American esta- 
 blishment at Astoria. The Racoon arrived at 
 the Columbia on the 1st of December 1813. 
 The surprise and disappointment of Captain 
 Black and his officers were extreme on learning 
 the arrangement that had taken place between 
 the two companies, by which the establishment 
 had become British property. They had calcu- 
 lated on obtaining a splendid prize by the cap- 
 ture of Astoria, the strength and importance of 
 which had been much magnified :t and the con- 
 tracting parties were therefore fortunate in 
 
 * He shortly after met the Essex at Valparaiso, and after 
 a severe contest captured her. She is now the convict hulk at 
 Kingstovm near Dublin. 
 
 -]- On looking at the wooden fortifications. Captain Black 
 exclaimed, " Is this the fort about which I have heard so 
 much ? D — n me, but I'd batter it down in two hours with 
 a four-pounder!" 
 
PROPOSED ALLIANCE. 
 
 2i9 
 
 He, 
 pro- 
 3, in 
 the 
 ctiiig 
 coin- 
 
 ack in 
 
 iinbia, 
 
 n esta- 
 
 ved at 
 1813. 
 
 Captain 
 
 earning 
 
 letween 
 
 Lisliment 
 
 [d calcu- 
 
 |the cap- 
 •tatice of 
 the con- 
 mate in 
 
 3, and after 
 tvict httlk at 
 
 Jptain Black 
 ^e Ward 80 
 fo hours with 
 
 having closed their bargain previous to the arrival 
 of the Racoon. 
 
 Captain Black however took possession of As- 
 toria in the name of his Britannic Majesty, and 
 re-baptised it by the name of " Fort George." 
 He also insisted on having an inventory taken 
 of the valuable stock of furs, and all other pro- 
 perty purchased from the American company, 
 with a view to the adoption of ulterior proceedings 
 in England for the recovery of the value from 
 the North-west Company; but he subsequently 
 relinquished this idea, and we heard no more 
 about his claims. The Indians at the mouth of 
 the Columbia knew well that Great Britain and 
 America were distinct nations, and that they 
 were then at war, but were ignorant of the 
 arrangement made between Messrs. M*Dougall 
 and M'Tavish, the former of whom still con- 
 tinued as nominal chief at the fort. On the 
 arrival of the Racoon, which they quickly dis- 
 covered to be one of " King George's fighting 
 ships," they repaired armed to the fort, and re- 
 quested an audience of Mr. M*Dougall. He 
 was somewhat surprised at their numbers and 
 warlike appearance, and demanded the object of 
 such an unusual visit. Coracoraly, the principal 
 chief of the Chinooks, thereupon addressed him 
 
 R 2 
 
 i 1 
 
J'l '■ I 
 
 
 244 
 
 OVERTURES REJECTED. 
 
 in a long speech ; in the course of which he said 
 that King George had sent a ship full of war- 
 riors, and loaded with nothing but big guns to 
 take the Americans, and make them all slaves j 
 and that as they (the Americans) were the first 
 white men who settled in their country, and 
 treated the Indians like good relations, they had 
 resolved to defend them from King George's 
 warriors, and were now ready to conceal them- 
 selves in the woods close to the wharf, from 
 whence they would be able with their guns and 
 arrows to shoot all the men that should attempt 
 to land from the English boats ; while the people 
 in the fort could fire at them with their big guns 
 and rifles. This proposition was uttered with 
 an earnestness of manner that admitted no doubt 
 of its sincerity : two armed boats from the Ra- 
 coon were approaching j and had the people in 
 the fort felt disposed to accede to the wishes of 
 the Indians, every man in them would have been 
 destroyed by an invisible enemy. Mr. M*Dou- 
 gall thanked them for their friendly offer ; but 
 added that notwithstanding the nations were at 
 war, the people in the boats would not injure 
 him or any of his people, and therefore requested 
 them to throw by their war-shirts and arms, and 
 receive the strangers as their friends. They at 
 
INDIAN ATTACK. 
 
 ^45 
 
 laid 
 irar- 
 j to 
 ires', 
 first 
 and 
 had 
 ►rge's 
 them- 
 from 
 18 and 
 itempt 
 people 
 T gufts 
 1 with 
 douht 
 e Ra- 
 ople in 
 shes of 
 ebeen 
 Dou- 
 ; but 
 rere at 
 injure 
 [quested 
 Ims, and 
 ?hey at 
 
 first seemed astonished at this answer ; but on 
 assuring them in the most positive manner that 
 he was under no apprehensions, they consented 
 to give up their weapons for a few days. They 
 afterwards declared they were sorry for having 
 complied with Mr. M'Dougall's wishes ; for 
 when they observed Captain Black surrounded 
 by his officers and marines, break the bottle of 
 port on the flag-staff, and hoist the British ensign 
 after changing the name of the fort, they re- 
 marked that, however we might wish to conceal 
 the fact, the Americans were undoubtedly made 
 slaves ; and they were not convinced of their 
 mistake until the sloop of war had departed with- 
 out taking any prisoners. 
 
 Mr. Stuart farther informed us, that a party of 
 seventeen men under the command of Messrs. 
 James Keith and Alexander Stewart, which had 
 left Fort George early in January with merchan- 
 dise for the interior, had been attacked by the 
 natives between the first and second portages of 
 the first rapids j that Mr. Stewart was danger- 
 ously wounded by two arrows, one of which 
 entered his left shoulder, and the other pene- 
 trated between his ribs close to the heart, not- 
 withstanding which he succeeded in shooting 
 two of the savages dead. By this time some of 
 
 ill 
 
216 
 
 CONTEST. 
 
 ".'* 
 
 the men came to his assistance, and for a wliilo 
 succeeded in keeping back their assailants, who 
 every moment became more daring, and evinced 
 not merely a determination to revenge the death 
 of their countrymen, but to seize and carry away 
 all the merchandize in the portage. Mr. Keith 
 having observed a large reinforcement of the 
 savages from the opposite side approach in their 
 war-canoes, to join those by whom Mr. Stewart 
 was surrounded, and seeing that gentleman's 
 wounds bleeding profusely, felt that it would 
 have been foolish obstinacy, and would have 
 produced an unnecessary sacrifice of lives, to re- 
 main longer in such a dangerous situation. He 
 therefore determined to abandon the goods; 
 and having embarked Mr. Stewart, the whole 
 party pushed off in one canoe, leaving the other 
 with all the property, to the mercy of the In- ' 
 dians. The latter were so overjoyed at becom- 
 ing masters of such an unexpected quantity of 
 plunder, that they allowed the party to e£fect 
 their retreat unmolested ; and on the second day 
 the canoe reached Fort George. 
 
 Among the goods thus abandoned were up- 
 wards of fifty guns, and a considerable quantity 
 of ammunition, which, if allowed to remain in 
 the hands of the savages, might have been turned 
 
STUATAOEM. 
 
 247 
 
 , who 
 jrinced 
 ! death 
 \f away 
 . Keith 
 
 of the 
 in their 
 Stewart 
 tleinan*8 
 t would 
 lid have 
 BB, to re- 
 lon. He 
 3 goods*, 
 he whole 
 
 the other 
 >f the In- 
 
 at hecom- 
 
 uantity of 
 to effect 
 
 jecond day 
 
 were up- 
 e quantity 
 remain in 
 |)een turned 
 
 against us on a future occasion ; and as this was 
 the first attack which had proved successful, the 
 proprietors at once determined not to allow it to 
 pass with impunity. They accordingly sent Mr. 
 Franch^re to the principal friendly chiefs in the 
 vicinity of the fort, for the purpose of acquainting 
 them with the late occurrence, and inviting them 
 to join our people in their intended expedition 
 against the enemy. They readily consented, 
 and on the following morning a brigage of six 
 canoes, containing sixty-two men, under the 
 command of Messrs. M'Tavish, Keith, Fran- 
 ch^re, Matthews, &c. took their departure from 
 Fort George. 
 
 Having no lading, they quickly reached the 
 rapids. Every thing there appeared hostile. The 
 warriors lined the beach at different places well 
 armed, and the old men, women, and children 
 were invisible. A council of war was imme- 
 diately held, at which two chiefs of the Clatsops 
 (one of whom was an old female) were present. 
 They advised the gentlemen to assume the ap- 
 pearance of friendship \ and after entering into a 
 parley with the natives, and inviting them to 
 smoke, to seize one of their chiefs, and detain 
 him as a hostage until the property should be re- 
 stored. This advice was followed, and succeeded 
 
248 
 
 PACIFIC TERMINATION. 
 
 to perfection. Having by some coaxing-, and 
 repeated offers of the calumet, collected a number 
 of the natives about them* to whom they made 
 trifling presents of tobacco, they were at length 
 joined by the principal chief of the place, who 
 had for some time cautiously kept out of view. 
 He was instantly seized, bound hand and foot, 
 and thrown into a tent, with two men to guard 
 him armed with drawn swords. The others 
 were then sent away, with directions to acquaint 
 their countrymen of their chief's captivity, and 
 were told that if the entire of the property was 
 not forthwith restored, he should be put to death. 
 This had the desired effect, and shortly after all 
 the guns, part of the kettles, and nearly one half 
 of the other goods were brought back. They 
 declared they could not recover any more, and 
 asked our gentlemen, " would they not allow 
 them any thing to place over the dead bodies of 
 their two relations, who had been killed by Mr. 
 Stewart?" 
 
 The most important object of the expedition 
 having been thus attained without bloodshed, 
 and as the aggressors had been pretty severely 
 punished in the first instance, the [)arty deemed 
 it both humane and prudent to rest satisfied with 
 what they had recovered. They also felt that 
 
and 
 abcr 
 aade 
 ngth 
 who 
 new. 
 foot, 
 ruard 
 )thers 
 juaint 
 |r, and 
 ;y was 
 death, 
 ter all 
 tie half 
 
 They 
 e, and 
 
 allow 
 dies of 
 
 >y 
 
 Mr. 
 
 edition 
 )dshed, 
 everely 
 
 eenied 
 ed with 
 
 It thut 
 
 ARRIVAL AND NARRATIVE. 
 
 249 
 
 an unnecessary waste of human blood might 
 prove ultimately prejudicial to their own inte- 
 rests, by raising up a combined force of natives, 
 against whom their limited numbers would find 
 it impossible to contend. They therefore gave 
 the chief his liberty, and presented him with a 
 flag, telling him at the same time, that whenever 
 that was presented to them unfurled, they would 
 consider it as a sign of friendship j but that if 
 any of his tribe ever approached them without 
 displaying this emblem of peace, it would be 
 taken as a symptom of hostility, and treated as 
 such. The chief promised faithfully to abide by 
 this engagement, and the parties then separated. 
 Mr. Hunt, late of the Pacific Fur Company, 
 arrived at Fort George early in February this 
 year, in a brig which he had purchased at the 
 Sandwich Islands. When the Beaver had left the 
 Columbia, this gentleman embarked in her on a 
 trading voyage to the northward, which proved 
 very successful. At the termination of her north- 
 ern trip the season was too far advanced to permit 
 her returning to the Columbia, in consequence of 
 which Mr. Hunt sent her on to Canton, and em- 
 barked on board an American trading vessel on 
 the coast. Shortly after the unwelcome intelli- 
 
 > 
 
 i 
 ) 
 
 1/ 
 
250 
 
 SHIPWRECK OF THE LARK. 
 
 ( I 
 
 
 gence of the war reached him ; and finding* no 
 vessel bound for the Columbia, he proceeded in 
 the trader to the Sandwich Islands. He did not 
 remain long here, when he re-embarked on board 
 another trader, and after traversing an immense 
 space of the Pacific Ocean, in the course of which 
 he encountered many dangers, returned again to 
 the islands. At Whoahoo he purchased a brig 
 called the Pedler, and was preparing to come in 
 her <o the Columbia, when he was informed by- 
 some of the natives that an American vessel had 
 been wrecked on the island of Tahoorowa. He 
 instantly repaired thither, and found Captain 
 Northrop, late commander of the ship Lark, with 
 several of his crew, all in a state of great desti- 
 tution. The Lark had been despatched from 
 New York by Mr. Astor, freighted with pro- 
 visions and merchandise for the establishment at 
 the Columbia. After escaping various British 
 cruisers, she made an excellent passage, until she 
 arrived within about three hundred miles of the 
 Sandwich Islands, when a sudden squall threw 
 her on her beam ends. By this unfortunate ac- 
 cident the second mate and four men perished. 
 Ttie captain, however, and the rest of the crew, 
 by cutting away the masts, succeeded in righting 
 
DEPARTURES. 
 
 251 
 
 her ; but she was completely water-logged. With 
 much difficulty they hoisted a sail on a small jury 
 foremast. They fortunately got out of the cabin 
 a box containing a few dozen of wine ; on which, 
 with the raw flesh of a shark they had caught, 
 they supported nature thirteen days I At the 
 end of this period the trade-winds, which had 
 been for some time favourable, drove the vessel 
 on the rocky coast of Tahoorowa, where she 
 went to pieces. The captain and his surviving 
 crew were saved and kindly treated by the na- 
 tives, who however plundered the v/reck of all 
 the property t'ley could find. 
 
 Mr. Hunt took Captain Northrop and his men 
 on board the brig, and sailed forthwith for the 
 Columbia, which he reached in the beginning of 
 February. Being ignorant of the events that had 
 occurred during his absence, he was confounded 
 at the intelligence he received ; and censured in 
 strong terms the precipitate manner in which the 
 sale had been effected. It was, however, irrevo- 
 cable, and he was obliged to submit. 
 
 Having no farther business at Fort George, 
 Mr. Hunt determined on returning to the United 
 States without loss of time. He took on board 
 such American citizens as preferred returning 
 home by sea to crossing tlie continent, and after 
 

 i'; 
 
 !l 
 
 1' 
 I 
 
 
 Q52 
 
 MASSACRE OF MR. READ S PARTY. 
 
 rather a tedious voyage they all arrived safely at 
 New York.* 
 
 We also learned from Messrs. Stuart and Clarke 
 the following melancholy intelligence : — On their 
 way up, a few miles above the Wallah Wallah 
 river, they were followed by some Indian canoes, 
 from one of which a voice hailed them in French, 
 and requested them to stop. They accordingly 
 put ashore, and were joined by the Indians, among 
 whom they were surprised to find the widow of 
 Pierre Dorrien, (a half-bred hunter, who had ac- 
 companied Mr. Read to the country of the Sho- 
 shon6s the preceding autumn, as already men- 
 tioned,) with her two children. She told them, 
 that shortly after Mr. Read had built his house 
 she proceeded, with her husband and two other 
 hunters, named Peznor and Le Clerc, between 
 four and five days* march from the post to a part 
 of the country well stocked with beaver, of which 
 they succeeded in trapping a considerable quan- 
 tity. One evening, about the beginning of 
 
 * Mr. Hunt subsequently returned to St. Louis, at the en- 
 trance of the Missouri, in which neighbourhood he possessed 
 extensive property, and from accounts which I have recently 
 received, I feel pleasure in stating, has been elevated to the 
 important office of governor of the state A more estimable 
 individual could not be selected for the situation, 
 
I 
 
 FEMALE HARDIHOOD. 
 
 253 
 
 of 
 
 January, while the poor fellows were thus 
 occupied, Le Clerc staggered into her hut mor- 
 tally wounded. He had merely strength sufficient 
 to acquaint her. that the savages had suddenly 
 fallen on them while they were at their traps, 
 and had killed her husband and Peznor : — he was 
 then proceeding to give her directions as to the 
 best means of effecting her escape ; but ere he 
 had concluded, death terminated his existence. 
 
 With that courage and self-possession of which 
 few Indian women aie devoid in times of neces- 
 sity, she at once determined on flying from a 
 spot so dangerous. With considerable difficulty 
 she succeeded in catching two horses. On one 
 she placed her clothes, a small quantity of dried 
 salmon, and some beaver meat which remained 
 in the hut. She mounted on the other with her 
 two children, the elder of whom was only three 
 years old, and the other did not exceed four 
 months. Thus provided, she commenced her 
 journey towards Mr. Read's establishment. On 
 the third day, she observed a number of Indians 
 on horseback, galloping in an easterly direction : 
 she immediately dismounted with the children, 
 and was fortunate enough to escape unnoticed. 
 That night she slept without fire or water. Late 
 in the evening of the fourth day, on which she 
 
 i>i 
 
!251. 
 
 FEMALE HARDIHOOD. 
 
 n 
 
 expected to have arrived at Mr. Read's house, 
 fthd came in sight of the spot on which it had 
 stood 'f but was horror-struck at beholding there 
 only a smoking ruin, with fresh marks of blood 
 scattered all around. Her fortitude, however, 
 did not forsake her, and she determined to ascer- 
 tain whether any of the party were still living. 
 
 Having concealed the children and horses in 
 an adjoining cluster of trees, she armed herself 
 with a a tomahawk and a large knife, and after 
 night-fall she cautiously crept towards the scene 
 of carnage. All was silent and lonely, and at 
 every step fresh traces of blood met her view. 
 Anxious to ascertain if any had escaped the mas- 
 sacre, she repeatedly called out the various names 
 of the party, but no voice responded. By the 
 expiring glare of the smouldering timbers she ob- 
 served a band of prairie wolves engaged in a san- 
 guinary banquet. The sound of her voice scared 
 them, and they fled. Fearful that they might 
 bend t^eir way to the spot in which she had de- 
 posited her precious charge, she hastened thither, 
 and arrived just in time to save her children 
 from three of those ferocious animals which were 
 then approaching them. 
 
 From thence she proceeded the following 
 morning towards a range of mountains not far 
 
FEMALE HARDIHOOD. 
 
 255 
 
 from the upper parts of the Wallah Wallah river, 
 where she intended to remain the rest of the 
 winter. This place she reached on the next day 
 in a state of great exhaustion from the want of 
 food. Fortunately she had a buffalo robe, and 
 two or three deer skins, with which, aided by 
 some pine bark and cedar branches, she con- 
 structed a wigwam, that served to shelter her 
 tolerably well from the inclemency of the weather. 
 The spot she chose was a rocky recess close by a 
 mountain spring. She was obliged to kill the 
 two horses for food, the meat of which she smoke- 
 dried, aad the skins served as an additional 
 covering to her frail habitation. In this cheer- 
 less and melancholy solitude, the wretched widow 
 and her two poor orphans dragged on a misera- 
 ble existence during a severe season. Towards 
 the latter end of March, she had nearly con- 
 sumed the last of her horseflesh, in consequence 
 of which she found it necessary to change her 
 quarters. During the whole of this period she 
 saw none of the natives, or any indication of 
 human habitations. Having packed up as much 
 covering and dried meat as she could carry, she 
 placed it with her younger child on her back, 
 and taking the elder by the hand, she bade adieu 
 to her wintry encampment. After crossing the 
 
 
 I 
 
250 
 
 DREADFUL OCCURRENCE. 
 
 ridge of mountains she fell on the Wallah Wallah 
 river, along the banks of which she continued 
 until she arrived at its junction with the Colum- 
 bia. Her reception and treatment by the tribe 
 at that place was of the most cordial and hos- 
 pitable description ; and she had been living 
 with her about a fortnight when the canoes 
 passed, and took her up to Oakinagan. 
 
 The house that had been built by Mr. Read 
 had no paling or defence of any kind ; and as 
 the men were constantly out hunting, or pro- 
 curing provisions, she supposed he had not more 
 than one or two with him at the time they were 
 attacked, and that the others had been cut off 
 in the same manner as her husband and his com- 
 panions. She could not assign any reason for 
 this butchery, and up to the period I quitted the 
 country, the cause of it was never satisfactorily 
 ascertained. Some imagined that it was com- 
 mitted by the tribe to which the man belonged 
 that had been hanged by Mr. Clarke, in revenge 
 for his death j but this could not have been the 
 case J for, leaving the policy or impolicy of that 
 execution out of the question, we subsequently 
 learned that his tribe inhabited the upper parts 
 of Lewis River, and never crossed the mountains 
 beyond which Mr. Read had formed his establish- 
 ment. 
 
J 
 
 
 
 DREADFUL OCCURRENCE. 257 
 
 /'' 
 
 From the quantity of blood Dorrien's widow 
 
 saw, she thinks that several of the savages must 
 have been killed or wounded before their blood- 
 thirsty efforts were crowned with such fatal 
 success. 
 
 Mr. Read was a rough, warm-hearted, brave, 
 old Irishman. Owing to some early disappoint- 
 ments in life he had quitted his native country 
 while a young man, in search of wealth among 
 regions 
 
 Where beasts with man divided empire claim, 
 And the brown Indian marks with raurd'rous aim ; 
 
 and after twenty-five years of toils, dangers, and 
 privations, added another victim to the long list 
 of those who have fallen sacrifices to Indian 
 treachery. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
8 
 
 i 
 
 i, 
 
 \ 
 
 ! 
 
 '' I 
 
 •5^58 
 
 ARRIVAL AT 1 OUT GMOHOr:. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Arrival of the Isaac Tod — Miss Jane Barnes, a white woman 
 — Murder of one of our men by Indians— Trial and execu- 
 tion of the murderers — Death of Mr. Donald M'Tavish 
 and five men. 
 
 We left Spokan House on the 25th of May, 
 and reached Oakinagan on the 29th, where I 
 found my disconsolate friend, the ex-suhaltern, 
 just recovering from the melancholy into which 
 his hibernal solitude had thrown him. The dif- 
 ferent parties having now assembled, we all 
 started for the sea on the 30th of May, and on 
 the 11th of June arrived at Fort George. We 
 were highly gratified at finding the so long ex- 
 pected Isaac Tod safe at anchor. After parting 
 company with the men of war off Cape Horn, 
 she touched at Juan Fernandez and the Galli- 
 pagos Islands, from whence she proceeded to 
 Monterey, a Spanish settlement on the coast of 
 California, for provisions. Here the captain was 
 informed that a British man-of-war had put into 
 San Francisco in distress, and was unable to 
 leave it. This latter place is also a Spanish 
 establishment, and is situated in Lat. 38° N., about 
 
 f 
 
THF, n.\(.'0(>N. 
 
 2.59 
 
 two degrees to the southward of Monterey. 
 Captain Smith of the Isaac Tod immediately 
 proceeded thither, and found the vessel alluded 
 to was the Racoon sloop of war, commanded 
 by Captain Black. This vessel, on quitting the 
 Columbia, struck several times on the bar, and 
 was so severely damaged in consequence, that 
 she was obliged to make for San Francisco, which 
 port she reached in a sinking state, with seven 
 feet water in her hold. Finding it impossible to 
 procure the necessary materials there to repair 
 the damage. Captain Black and his officers had 
 determined to abandon the vessel, and proceed 
 overland to the Gulf of Mexico, whence they 
 could have obtained a passage to England ; but 
 when the Isaac Tod arrived they succeeded, 
 with her assistance, in stopping the leaks, and 
 putting the Racoon in good sailing order ; after 
 which the Isaac Tod weighed anchor, and on 
 the 17th of April crossed the bar of the Co- 
 lumbia, after a voyage of thirteen months from 
 England. 
 
 She brought out the following passengers j viz. 
 Messrs. Donald M'Tavish and John M 'Donald, 
 proprietors ; and Messrs. Alexander and James 
 M*Tavish, Alexander Frazer, and Alexander 
 M'Kenzie, clerks, with Doctor Swan, a medi- 
 
 s '2 
 
 *i 
 
 I 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 1.25 
 
 U£|28 |2.5 
 
 US K£ 12.2 
 
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 :!: us, 112.0 
 
 — 6" 
 
 1.8 
 
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 VI 
 
 7] 
 
 f>^^:> V'^ 
 
 "V!"^/ 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 "^V 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716)872-4503 
 
 'V- 
 
/ 
 
 i 
 
 260 
 
 MTSS JANE DARNES. 
 
 cal gentleman engaged as resident physician at 
 the fort. 
 
 '. The two first-named gentlemen, from their 
 long experience of Indian living, knew well the 
 little luxuries that would be most grateful to 
 men so long debarred from the enjoyments of 
 civilised life ; and they accordingly brought out 
 a few casks of bottled porter, some excellent 
 cheese, and a quantity of prime English beef, 
 which they had dressed and preserved in a pe- 
 culiar manner in tin cases impervious tc air ; so 
 that we could say we ate fresh beef which had 
 been killed and dressed in England thirteen 
 months before I Acceptable as were these re- 
 freshers to our memory of "lang syne," they 
 brought out another object which more strongly 
 recalled to our semi-barbarised ideas the thoughts 
 of our " dear native home,'* than all the other 
 bonnes choses contained in the vessel. This was 
 neither more nor less than a flaxen-haired, blue- 
 eyed daughter of Albion, who, in a temporary fit 
 of erratic enthusiasm, had consented to become 
 
 le compagnon du voyage of Mr. Mac . 
 
 Miss Jane Barnes had been a lively bar-maid at 
 
 an hotel in Portsmouth, at which Mr. Mac 
 
 had stopped preparatory to his embarkation. 
 This gentleman, being rather of an amorous 
 
 / 
 
 
 . [ 
 
1/ 
 
 PROPOSALS OF MARRIAGE. 
 
 261 
 
 iid at 
 
 ition. 
 lorous 
 
 -/' 
 
 ieniperament, proposed the trip to Miss Jane, 
 who, " nothing loth," threw herself on his pro- 
 tection, regardless of consequences, and after 
 encountering the perils of a long sea voyage, 
 found herself an object of interest to the resi- 
 dents at the fort, and the greatest curiosity that 
 ever gratified the wondering eyes of the blubber- 
 loving aboriginals of the north-west coast of Ame- 
 rica. The Indians daily thronged in numbers 
 to our fort for the mere purpose of gazing on, 
 and admiring the fair beauty, every article of 
 whose dress was examined with the most minute 
 scrutiny. She had rather an extravagant ward- 
 robe, and each day exhibited her in a new dress, 
 which she always managed in a manner to dis- 
 play her figure to the best advantage. One day, 
 her head, decorated with feathers and flowers, 
 produced the greatest surprise ; the next, her 
 hair, braided and unconcealed by any covering, 
 excited equal wonder and admiration. The 
 young women felt almost afraid to approach her, 
 and the old were highly gratified at being per- 
 mitted to touch her person. Some of the chiefs 
 having learned that her protector intended to 
 send her home, thought to prevent such a mea- 
 sure by making proposals of marriage. One of 
 them in particular, the son of Comcomly, the 
 
262 
 
 K£J£CT£D ADDRESSES. 
 
 principal chief of the Chinooks, came to the fort 
 attired in his richest dress, his face fancifully 
 bedaubed with red paint, and his body redolent 
 of whale oil. He was young, and had four native 
 wives. He told her, that if she would become 
 his wife, he would send one hundred sea-otters 
 to her relations j that he would never ask her to 
 carry wood, draw water, dig for roots, or hunt 
 for provisions ; that he would make her mistress 
 over his other wives, and permit her to sit at her 
 ease from morning to night, and wear her own 
 clothes ;* that she should always have abundance 
 of fat salmon, anchovies, and elk, and be allowed 
 to smoke as many pipes of tobacco during the 
 day as she thought proper ; together with many 
 other flattering inducements, the tithe of which 
 would have shaken the constancy of a score of 
 the chastest brown vestals that ever flourished 
 among the lower tribes of the Columbia. . 
 
 These tempting offers, however, had no charms 
 for Jane. Her long voyage had not yet eradi- 
 cated certain Anglican predilections respecting 
 mankind, which she had contracted in the country 
 of her birth, and among which she did not in- 
 clude a flat head, a half naked body, or a copper- 
 coloured skin besmeared with whale oil. 
 
 * Meaning that he would not insist on her wearing the 
 light covering oi' the Indian t'enialcK. 
 
 /' 
 
 
 i 
 U 
 
larms 
 jradi- 
 jcting 
 |untry 
 )t in- 
 |>pper- 
 
 kniT tlic 
 
 \ 
 
 ^'' 
 
 
 A CHINESE ALLIANCE. 
 
 263 
 
 Her native inamorato made several other inef- 
 fectual proposals ; but finding her inflexible, he 
 declared he would never more come near the 
 fort while she remained there. We shortly 
 afterwards learned that he had concerted a plan 
 with some daring young men of his tribe to carry 
 her off while she was walking on the beach, 
 (her general custom every evening while the 
 gentlemen were at dinner,) a practice which, 
 after this information, she was obliged to discon- 
 tinue. 
 
 Mr. Mac at first intended to have brought 
 
 her with him across the continent to Montreal ; 
 but on learning the impracticability of her per- 
 forming such an arduous journey, he abandoned 
 that idea, and made arrangements with the cap- 
 tain for her return to England by way of Can- 
 ton. A few words more, and I shall have done 
 with Miss Barnes. On the arrival of the vessel 
 at Canton she became an object of curiosity and 
 admiration among the inhabitants of the ** Ce- 
 lestial empire." An English gentleman of great 
 wealth, connected with the East-India Company, 
 offered her a splendid establishment. It was 
 infinitely superior to any of the proposals made 
 by the Chinook nobility, and far beyond any 
 thing she could ever expect in England : it was 
 
I 
 
 I I 
 
 264, 
 
 CHARCOAL BUUNEUS. 
 
 therefore prudently accepted, and the last account 
 I heard of her stated that she was then enjoying 
 all the luxuries of eastern magpiificence.* 
 
 About a month after the arrival of the Isaac 
 Tod a circumstance occurred which, as it caused 
 a considerable sensation for some time, I shall 
 fully relate. 
 
 About two miles at the rear of the fort, on the 
 
 * Miss Barnes was tbnd of quotations ; but she was no 
 Blue. One of the clerks was one day defending the native 
 and half-bred women, whose characters she had violently attack, 
 ed, and he recriminated in no very measured language on the 
 conduct of the white ladies: " O Mr. Mac !" said she " I 
 suppose you ag^ee with Shakspeare that " every woman is 
 at heart a rake ?" — " Pope, ma'am if you please." — " Pope ! 
 Pope !" replied Jane. " Bless me, sir ! you must be wrong : 
 rake is certainly the word. — I never heard of but one female 
 Pope." Then in order to terminate the argument, she pre- 
 tended to read an old newspaper which she held in her hand. 
 He quicklydiscovered b y her keeping the wrong end upper- 
 most that she did not know a syllable of its contents. He 
 quitted her abruptly ; and as he was coming out I met him at 
 the door, a wicked and malicious grin ru£Bing his sun-burnt 
 features. •• Well, Mac," said 1, " what's the matter? You 
 seem annoyed." — " What do you think," he replied, " I have 
 just bad a conversation with that fine- looking damsel there, 
 who looks down with such contempt on our women, and may 
 1 be d — d if the b — h understands B from a buifalo !" 
 
 Her supposed education was the only excuse in his opinion 
 to justify her usurpation of superiority ; — that gone, he judged 
 her " poor ir.deed." 
 
 / 
 
 ii 
 
/ 
 
 DREADFUL MURDEll. 
 
 265 
 
 upper- 
 He 
 him at 
 burnt 
 You 
 have 
 there, 
 may 
 
 pinion 
 iidged 
 
 Clatsop River, a place had been established for 
 making charcoal. One of the men employed at 
 this business was a poor half-witted American 
 from Boston, named Judge, who had crossed the 
 continent with Mr. Hunt's party, and whose suf- 
 ferings during that journey had partially de- 
 ranged his intellect. He was however a cbpital 
 woodsman ; and few men could compete with 
 him, as he said himself, in hewing down forests 
 " by the acre." His comrade had been absent 
 one day, selecting proper wood for charcoal, and 
 on returning to the lodge in the evening he found 
 the body of the unfortunate Judge lying stretched 
 on the ground, with his skull completely cleft in 
 two by the blow of an axe which was lying be- 
 side him steeped in blood. He instantly re- 
 paired to the fort, and communicated the dread- 
 ful intelligence; upon which a party was de- 
 spatched for the mangled remains of poor Judge. 
 Mr. M*Tavish forthwith summoned all the 
 neighbouring chiefs to attend at the fort; and 
 on the following day there was a congress of re- 
 presentatives from the Chinooks, Chilts, Clatsops, 
 Killymucks, and Cathlamahs. They could not 
 assign any reason for the murder ; nor indeed 
 could any one, for Judge was the most harmless 
 individual belonging to our establishment. They 
 

 '- 
 
 S66 
 
 NIGHT EXPEDITION. 
 
 promised, however, that every exertion shouhl 
 be made on their part for the discovery of the 
 perpetrators ; and Mr. M*Tavish offered a large 
 reward for their apprehension. Some time 
 elapsed in vain inquiry ; but, through the agency 
 of the Clatsop chief, we received private infor- 
 mation that the murderers were two of the Kil- 
 lymucks, and that if we sent a party well armed 
 to his village, he would render every assistance 
 to take them into custody. Mr. Matthews and 
 seven men were accordingly ordered on this 
 dangerous duty. They proceeded early in the 
 day in a canoe up the Clatsop I liver, as if on a 
 hunting excursion, and stopped kte in the even- 
 ing at a place previously agreed on, where they 
 were joined by three Clatsops and a Killymuck, 
 who was the informer. After night-fall they con- 
 tinued on until they arrived at the Killymuck 
 village, where they landed. The informer having 
 pointed out the lodges in which the murderers 
 slept, and told their names, separated from the 
 party. Mr. Matthews immediately proceeded to 
 the chief's dwelling, and made him acquainted 
 with the object of his visit. He appeared some- 
 what surprised \ but stated, that having promised 
 to assist in discovering them, he would not op- 
 pose their apprehension, provided they were 
 
 \' 
 
/ 
 
 \1 
 
 CAPTURE OF THE MURDERERS. 
 
 267 
 
 allowed a fair trial, and that nothing should be- 
 fall them but on the clearest testimony. This 
 was of course agreed to ; and Mr. Matthews, 
 with his party, then cautiously approached the 
 habitations of the two delinquents, which were 
 adjoining each other; and having divided his 
 men, leaving the Clatsops to mind the canoe, 
 they entered the houses, and succeeded in seiz- 
 ing, binding, and hurrying the prisoners on board 
 before the village was alarmed. The men pad- 
 dled hard until they arrived at the Clatsop vil- 
 lage, where they stopped to rest, and the follow- 
 ing, morning at day-break they reached Fort 
 George in safety. The day subsequent to that 
 of our arrival was fixed for the trial. It was 
 held in the large dining-hall ; and the jury was 
 composed of the gentlemen belonging to the 
 Company, with an equal number of Indians, con- 
 sisting of chiefs 8>'l chieftainesses, for among 
 these tribes old women possess great authority. 
 It appeared in the course of the investigation 
 that revenge was the cause of the murder. 
 About two years before this period, while houses 
 were being built for the men, the greater num- 
 ber of them were lodged in tents and huts about 
 the fort, from which the Indians were constantly 
 in the practice of pilfering whatever they could 
 
268 
 
 KVID£NC£ ON TRIAL. 
 
 lay their hand on ; particularly at night, when 
 the workmen were buried in sleep after the labour 
 of the day. 
 
 Judge and three others were lodged together ; 
 and one night, when it was supposed they were 
 fast asleep, one of them heard t^j noise of foot- 
 steps outside approaching the tent. Through 
 a slit in the canvass he ascertained they were 
 natives, and without awaking his comrades, he 
 cautiously unsheathed his sword, and waited 
 a few minutes in silence, watching their mo- 
 tions, until they at length reached the tent, 
 the lower part of which they were in the act 
 of raising, when, by a desperate blow of the 
 sword, he severely cut one of their arms. The 
 savage gave a dreadful yell, and the Canadian 
 rushed out, when he distinctly perceived two 
 Indians running away quickly, and disappear 
 in the gloom of the forest behind. This 
 circumstance made some noise at the time ; the 
 parties were not discovered, and in a few weeks 
 the event was forgotten by our people j but it 
 was not so with the savages. They harboured 
 the most deep and deadly revenge j and think- 
 ing that Judge was the person who had inflicted 
 the wound, they determined to wreak their ven- 
 geance on him. For this purpose they had been 
 
/ 
 
 CONVICTION AND SKNTKNCE. 
 
 qgo 
 
 for nearly tw^o years occasionally lurking about 
 the fort, until the fatal opportunity presented 
 itself of gratifying their demoniacal passion. On 
 the day of the murder, after Judge's comrade 
 had quitted the lodge, they stole unperceived on 
 him, and while he was engaged at the fire they 
 felled him to the ground with a blow of his own 
 axe, after which they split his skull, and made 
 their escape. All these facts were brought out 
 during the trial, which lasted the greater part of 
 the day. Several of the witnesses underwent a 
 strict cross-examination, particularly by the old 
 women, who evinced much more acutcness than 
 was displayed by the chiefs. 
 
 The prisoners made no defence, and observed 
 a sulky taciturnity during the whole of the pro- 
 ceedings. They were found guilty by the una- 
 nimous verdict of the jury, and sentenced to be 
 shot the following morning. They showed no 
 signs of repentance or sorrow ; and on being 
 led out of the hall, the fellow whose arm had 
 been cut held it up, and exclaimed, " Were I 
 now free, and he alive, I would do the same 
 thing again I** 
 
 About nine o'clock the next morning they 
 were brought from the guard-house pinioned, 
 and conducted to the farther end of the wharf. 
 
270 
 
 KXECUTION. 
 
 
 at which place it was arranged they were to 
 Buffer. Twenty-four men were selected by ballot 
 to carry the dreadful sentence into execution 
 
 under the command of Mr. M , to whom 
 
 the lot fell. Immense numbers of Indians bo- 
 longing to the various surrounding nations were 
 in attendance ; some on shore, and others in 
 canoes. The guns on the battery and in the 
 bastions were loaded with grape, and attended 
 by men with slow matches. The remainder of 
 our people were drawn up in front of the fort, 
 all armed with muskets and bayonets. The cul- 
 prits made considerable opposition to their ueing 
 tied together, and refused to kneel, or allow the 
 caps to be drawn over their eyes. At length, 
 between force and entreaty, these preliminaries 
 were accomplished, and orders were given to 
 fire. After the discharge a louu and frightful 
 yell was sent forth from the surrounding sa- 
 vages ; but they remained tranquil. On the 
 smoke clearing away, it was perceived that both 
 the unfortunate men were still alive, although 
 several balls had taken effect. M. M or- 
 dered the party to reload quickly, and a second 
 volley was discharged Tone only was killed ; 
 and as the other made repeated attempts to rise, 
 aud appeared to suffer great agony, he was de. 
 
FATAL ACCIDKNT. 
 
 271 
 
 spatched by one of the men, who fired a ball 
 through his head. The party then gave three 
 cheers, and retired to the fort, while the friends 
 and relatives of the deceased took away their 
 bodies amidst the greatest lamentations \ during 
 which not a murmur was heard, or the slightest 
 symptom of disapprobation expressed. Shortly 
 after a number of the chiefs and elders came up 
 to the fort, when Mr. M'Tavish invited them 
 into the hall, to thank them for their assistance ; 
 and having paid the promised rewards, and 
 made various presents, they smoked the calumet 
 of peace, and departed for their respective vil- 
 lages, apparently much gratified with the manner 
 they had been treated. 
 
 Scarcely was this tragedy ended when one 
 more fatal to the interests of the Company oc- 
 curred by the melancholy and untimely death of 
 Mr. Donald M'Tavish. This gentleman had 
 embarked in an open boat, with six voyageurSj 
 to proceed to the opposite side of the Columbia. 
 It blew a stiff gale ; and about the middle of 
 the river, owing to some mismanagement of the 
 sail, a heavy wave struck the boat, whch in- 
 stantly filled and went down. With the ex- 
 ception of one man, they all perished ; he suc- 
 ceeded in gaining a snag which was a few feet 
 
272 
 
 MR. DONALD M*TAVISH. 
 
 hi 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 
 above the water, and on which he remained for 
 nearly two hours, until he was rescued when in 
 a state of great exhaustion by two Chinooks, who 
 proceeded to his assistance in a small canoe. 
 Thus perished the respected Mr. Donald M<Ta> 
 vish, one of the oldest proprietors of the North- 
 west Company, and for many years the principal 
 director for managing the a£fairs of the interior. 
 He had realized an independent fortune ; and 
 had, in fact, retired from the Company, when he 
 volunteered his services to organise the new de- 
 partment of Columbia ; after effecting which ob- 
 ject it was his intention to have crossed the con- 
 tinent to Canada, and from thence to proceed to 
 Scotland, where he had purchased an estate, on 
 which, after a life of fatigues and hardships, he 
 had hoped to spend an old age of ease and com- 
 fort. Mr. M^Tavish was a man of bold and de- 
 cided character. His enmity was open and 
 undisguised ; his friendship warm and sincere. 
 Sprung from a comparatively humble origin, he 
 was the founder of his own fortune ; and merit 
 with him was sure to be appreciated without 
 reference to a man's family or connexions. 
 
 The day after this melancholy event the body 
 of the lamented gentleman, with those of four 
 of the men, were found, and interred in a 
 
 i 
 
 ( 
 
 i 
 
MR. DONALD M*TAVISH. 
 
 27, 
 
 handsome spot behind the north-east bastion of 
 Fort George, where a small monument, tole- 
 rably well engraved, points to the future Indian 
 b-ader the last earthly remains of the enterprising 
 Donald M'Tavish. ^ 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
274 
 
 THE NATIVES. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 H' 
 
 » i 
 
 If', 
 
 Sketch of the Indians about the mouth of the Columbia — Pro- 
 cess of flattening the head — Thievish disposition — Treat- 
 ment of their slaves — Suggestions to the missionary socie- 
 ties — Dreadful ravages of the small-pox — Jack Ramsay — 
 Their ideas of religion — Curious superstition — Marriage 
 ceremonies — Anecdote — Aversion to ardent spirits — Go- 
 vernment — War — Arms and Armour — Canoes and houses 
 — System of cooking — Utensils — Gambling — Haiqua — 
 Quack doctors — Mode of burial. \ 
 
 1814. 
 We remained a couple of months this summer 
 at Fort George, making the necessary arrange- 
 ments for our winter's campaign. During this 
 period we made several excursions on pleasure 
 or business to the villages of the various tribes, 
 from one to three days* journey from the fort. 
 They differ little from each other in laws, man- 
 ners, or customs, and were I to make a distinc- 
 tion, I would say the Cathlamahs are the most 
 tranquil, the Killymucks the most roguish, the 
 Olatsops the most honest, and the Chinooks the 
 most incontinent. The Chilts, a small tribe who 
 inhabit the coast to the northward of Cape Dis- 
 appointment, partake in some degree of these 
 various qualities. The abominable ctistom of 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
DISTORTION OF THE HEAD. 
 
 275 
 
 ia— Pro- 
 i— Treat- 
 iry socie- 
 larasay — 
 Marriage 
 rits— Go- 
 ld houses 
 laiqua — 
 
 \\ 
 
 summer 
 arrange- 
 ing this 
 (leasure 
 |s tribes, 
 ;lie fort. 
 8, man- 
 distinc- 
 e most 
 ish, the 
 oks the 
 libe who 
 ipe Dis- 
 (f these 
 Itom of 
 
 
 flattening their heads prevails among them all. 
 Immediately after birth the infant is placed in a 
 kind of oblong cradle formed like a trough, with 
 moss under it. One end, on which the head 
 reposes, is more elevated than the rest. A 
 padding is then placed on the forehead with a 
 piece of cedar-bark over it, and by means of cords 
 passed through small holes on each side of the 
 cradle, the padding is pressed against the head. 
 It is kept in this manner upwards of a year, and 
 is not I believe attended with much pain. The 
 appearance of the infant, however, while in this 
 state of compression, is frightful, and its little 
 black eyes, forced out by the tightness of the 
 bandages, i^esemble those of a mouse choked in a 
 trap. When released from this inhuman process, 
 the head is perfectly flattened, and the upper 
 part of it seldom exceeds an inch in thickness. 
 It never afterwards recovers its rotundity. They 
 deem this an essential point of beauty, and the 
 most devoted adherent of our first Charles never 
 entertained a stronger aversion io a Round-head 
 than these savages.* 
 
 '^ Doctor Swan, on examining the skulls 1 had taken, can- 
 didly confessed that nothing short of ocular demonstration 
 could have convinced him of the possibility of moulding the 
 human head into such a form. 
 
 T 2 
 
M 
 
 •.'i 
 
 i' 
 
 \(: 
 
 t 
 
 W 
 
 276 
 
 OTHER DEFORMITIES. 
 
 They allege, as an excuse for this custom, that 
 all their slaves have round heads ; and accord- 
 ingly every child of a bondsman, who is not 
 adopted by . the tribe, inherits not only his 
 father's degradation, but his parental rotundity 
 of cranium. 
 
 This deformity is unredeemed by any peculiar 
 beauty either in features or person. The height 
 of the men varies from five feet to five feet six 
 inches j that of the women is generally six or 
 eight inches less. The nose is rather flat, with 
 distended nostrils ; and a mouth, seldom closed, 
 exposes to view an abominable set of short dirty 
 irregular teeth. The limbs of the men are in 
 general well-shaped j but the women, owing to 
 tight ligatures which they wear on the lower 
 part of the legs, are quite bandy, with thick 
 ankles, and broad flat feet. They have loose 
 hanging breasts, slit ears, and perforated noses, 
 which, added to greasy heads, and bodies satu- 
 rated with fish-oil, constitute the sum total of 
 their personal attractions. 
 
 The good qualities of these Indians are few j 
 their vices many. Industry, patience, sobriety, 
 and ingenuity nearly comprise the former ; while 
 in the latter may be classed thieving, lying, in- 
 continence, gambling, and cruelty. They are 
 
 i 
 
THIEVING PROPENSITIES. 
 
 277 
 
 m, that 
 iccord- 
 is not 
 ily his 
 tundity 
 
 )eculiar 
 } height 
 feet six 
 ^ six or 
 at, with 
 I closed, 
 )rt dirty 
 1 are in 
 wing to 
 lower 
 thick 
 re loose 
 noses, 
 es satu- 
 otal of 
 
 re few > 
 obriety, 
 while 
 ing, in- 
 ley are 
 
 
 also perfect hypocrites. Each tribe accuses the 
 other of " envy, hatred, malice, and all uncha- 
 ritableness." Even the natives of the same vil- 
 lage, while they feign an outward appearance of 
 friendship, indulge in a certain propensity called 
 back-biting; in this respect differing but little 
 from the inhabitants of more civilised countries, 
 among whom the prevalence of such ill-natured 
 practices has, by certain envious and satirical 
 coffee- drinkers, been unjustly attributed to the 
 scandalising influence of tea. 
 
 Their bravery is rather doubtful ; but what 
 they want in courage they make up in effrontery. 
 Fear alone prevents them from making any open 
 or violent attempt at robbery j and their offences 
 under this head, in legal parlance, may more 
 strictly be styled petty larcenies. I have seen a 
 fellow stopped on suspicion of stealing an axe. 
 He denied the charge with the most barefaced 
 impudence j and when the stolen article was 
 pulled from under his robe, instead of expressing 
 any rt^gret, he burst out laughing, and alleged he 
 was oi\ly joking. One of the men gave him a 
 few kirks, which he endured with great sang- 
 froid } and on joining his companions, they re- 
 ceived him with smiling countenances, and ban- 
 tered him on the failure of his attempt. They 
 
5^78 
 
 INCONTINENCE. 
 
 seldom make any resistance to these summary 
 punishments ; and if the chastisement takes place 
 in the presence of a chief, he seems delighted at 
 the infliction. 
 
 They purchase slaves from the neighbouring 
 tribes for beaver, otter, beads, &c. I could never 
 learn whether any were taken by them in war. 
 While in good health and able to work, they are 
 well treated; but the moment they fall sick, or 
 become unfit for labour, the unfortunate slaves 
 are totally neglected, and left to perish in the 
 most miserable manner. After death their bodies 
 are thrown without any ceremony at the trunk 
 of a tree, or into an adjoining wood. It some- 
 times happens that a slave is adopted by a family ; 
 in which case he is permitted to marry one ol 
 the tribe, and his children, by undergoing the 
 flattening process, melt down into the great mass 
 of the community. 
 
 Chastity is an item seldom inscribed on 
 the credit side of their account current with 
 futurity. Indeed a strict observance of it be- 
 fore marriage is not an article of their moral 
 code. 
 
 Formerly an act of post-nuptial incontinence 
 subjected the woman to the loss of life ; but in 
 latter times infractions of conjugal rights are often 
 
Limmary 
 es place 
 n-hted at 
 
 bouring 
 Id never 
 in war. 
 they are 
 sick, or 
 e slaves 
 1 in the 
 ir bodies 
 e trunk 
 [t some- 
 family J 
 one oi 
 ing the 
 lat mass 
 
 )ed on 
 jt with 
 it be- 
 moral 
 
 kinence 
 
 I but in 
 
 often 
 
 I'UOSTITUTION. 
 
 '279 
 
 connived at, or if committed sans permission, 
 only slightly punished.* 
 
 Numbers of the women reside during certain 
 periods of the year in small huts about the fort 
 from which it is difficult to keep the men. They 
 generally retire with the fall of the leaf to their 
 respective villages, and during the winter months 
 seldom visit Fort George. But on the arrival of 
 the spring and antumn brigades from the interior 
 they pour in from all parts, and besiege our 
 voyageurs much after the manner which their frail 
 sisters at Portsmouth adopt when attacking the 
 crews of a newly arrived India fleet. Mothers 
 participate with their daughters in the proceeds 
 arising from their prostitution ; and, in many in- 
 stances,[husbands share with their wives the wages 
 of infamy. Disease is the natural consequence of 
 this state of general demoralization, and numbers 
 of the unfortunate beings suffer dreadfully from 
 the effects of their promiscuous intercourse. 
 
 Now that the North-west and Hudson's Bay 
 Companies have become united, and that rivalship 
 in trade cannot be brought forward as an excuse 
 for corrupting Indians, it would be highly de, 
 sirable that the missionaries would turn their 
 
 * We were told by au old man that he knew but of one in- 
 stance in which a htishanu killed his wife for infidelity. 
 
i) 
 
 fJ80 
 
 MISSION AllIES. 
 
 "il 
 
 ) 
 
 thoughts to this remote and too long neglected 
 corner of the globe. Their pious labours have 
 already effected wonders in. the comparatively 
 small islands of the Pacific, where idolatry, hu- 
 man sacrifices, and other crimes more revolting 
 to humanity, have been abolished. I would 
 therefore respectfully suggest to the consideration 
 of the benevolent individuals who constitute the 
 missionary societies, the propriety of extending 
 the sphere of their exertions to the North-west 
 coast of America, and from thence through the 
 interior of that vast continent ; the aborigitial in- 
 habitants of which, with the exception of Canada 
 and a very trifling part of the frontiers, are still 
 buried in the deepest ignorance. During the pe- 
 riod that France held possession of the Canadas, 
 the Jesuits made wonderful progress in convert- 
 ing the Indians, and most of the natives of the 
 two provinces are now Christians. In my journey 
 across the continent, small wooden huts, orna- 
 mented with crucifixes and other symbols of 
 Christianity, situated from five to seven hundred 
 miles beyond thelimitsof civilization, were pointed 
 out to me, which had formerly been inhabited by 
 these enterprising missionaries in their progress 
 through the wilderness. These dwellings are 
 now deserted j but are still regarded with pious 
 
 
INDIAN CONVERSION. 
 
 '281 
 
 )gress 
 
 rs are 
 
 pious 
 
 
 reverence by the thoughtless voyageurs ; and 
 even the poor Indians, who by the cessation of 
 the Jesuit missions, have relapsed into their for- 
 mer habits, pay the utmost respect to the houses, 
 which were inhabited, as they say, by " the good 
 white fathers, who, unlike other men, never 
 robbed or cheated them.'* Since the annexation 
 of Canada to the British crown, Indian conversion 
 has almost ceased ; or has made, at most, a slow 
 and sickly progress. Their moral amelioration 
 is completely neglected by both English and 
 Americans ; and it is only in periods of war that 
 we pay them any attention. The first settlers of 
 the United States did not act so. They fought 
 their way through the country with the Bible in 
 one hand and the sword in the other ; and it was 
 not until the former ceased to convince that re- 
 course was had to the latter. Objectionable, how- 
 ever, as this system undoubtedly was, the plan 
 adopted by the modern Americans is more so. 
 Their anti-republican love of aggrandizement, by 
 the continual extension of their territorial pos- 
 sessions, must sooner or later destroy the unity of 
 their confederation ; and it is a subject deeply to 
 be lamented that, in their gradual encroachments 
 on the Indian lands, Christianity is forgotten, the 
 word of God does not now, as in the time of their 
 
 '\ 
 
'if 
 
 
 n 
 
 •I 
 
 r;; 
 
 i;) 
 
 V>8!2 
 
 UELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION. 
 
 forefathers, keep in check tlie sanguinary sword 
 of man j and extermination^ instead of regenera- 
 tion, seems to be their motto. To return to the 
 Cohimbia. It is the only situation on the north- 
 west coast, to the northward of California, free 
 from danger ; and I have no doubt that by a 
 proper application the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 who have now possession of Fort George, would 
 give a passage, and afford every facility to resi- 
 dent missionaries. Odious as the vices are to 
 which I have referred, the few good qualities 
 which the Indians possess would materially assist 
 in bringing them to a knowledge of the true 
 religion. Independently of the beneficial results 
 which we might naturally expect to flow from 
 their exertions among the natives, there is an- 
 other consideration which induces me to think 
 that the Company would, for its own interest, 
 render them every assistance in its power. I 
 allude to the situation of a number of men in its 
 employment whose knowledge of Christianity, 
 owing to a long absence from their native coun- 
 try, has fallen into a kind of abeyance, and which 
 would undoubtedly be revived by the cheering 
 presence of a minister of God. Cannibalism, 
 although unknown among the Indians of the 
 Columbia, is practised by the savages on the 
 
 
MISSIONAIIIKS. 
 
 •283 
 
 sword 
 Tenera- 
 1 to the 
 I north - 
 lia, free 
 it by a 
 mipany, 
 J, would 
 to resi- 
 s are to 
 qualities 
 lly assist 
 the true 
 il results 
 )W from 
 e is an- 
 ,o think 
 [interest, 
 Iwer. I 
 n in its 
 itianity, 
 e coun- 
 vvhich 
 [heering 
 ibalism, 
 of the 
 :)n the 
 
 coast to the northward of that river ; so that by 
 the progressive labours of the missionaries, this 
 dreadful custom, with the others, might be gra- 
 dually abolished. The settlement formed by Lord 
 Selkirk on Red River, which falls into the great 
 Lake Winepic, and which suffered so much in its 
 infancy from interested enemies, is at present, I 
 am happy to hear, in a thriving condition. A 
 missionary has been established here, whose la- 
 bours have already been productive of much 
 good. Numbers of the surrounding natives have 
 become converts, and they are yearly increasing. 
 The progress of civilization will gradually gain 
 ground among the western tribes ; and we may 
 indulge the pleasing hope that the day is not far 
 distant when the missionaries, in their glorious 
 career eastward and westward, from the St. 
 Lawrence and the mouth of the Columbia, de- 
 spite the many difficulties and dangers they must 
 unavoidably encounter, may meet on the Rocky 
 Mountains, and from their ice-covered summits 
 proclaim to the benighted savages " Glory to 
 God in the highest, and on earth peace and 
 good-will towards men." 
 
 About thirty years before this period the small- 
 pox had committed dreadful ravages among these 
 Indians, the vestiges of which were still visible 
 
Q84> 
 
 THE SMALL-POX. 
 
 
 B 
 
 ■:t 
 
 .) 
 
 on the countenances of the elderly men and 
 women. It is believed in the north-west that 
 this disease was wilfully introduced by the Ame- 
 rican traders among the Indians of the Missouri, 
 as- a short and easy method of reducing their 
 numbers, and thereby destroying in a great 
 measure their hostility to the whites. The Ame- 
 ricans throw the blame on the French ; while 
 they in turn deny the foul imputation, and 
 broadly charge the Spaniards as the original 
 delinquents. Be this as it may, the disease first 
 proceeded from the banks of the Missouri, and 
 the British are free from having had any partici- 
 pation in the detestable act. It travelled with 
 destructive rapidity as far north as Athabasca 
 and the shores of the Great Slave Lake, crossed 
 the Rocky Mountains at the sources of the Mis- 
 souri, and having fastened its deadly venom on 
 the Snake Indians, spread its devastating course 
 to the northward and westward, until its frightful 
 progress was arrested by the Pacific Ocean. 
 Some of the old voyageurs who were stationed 
 at English River and Athabasca, when this 
 scourge made its first appearance, give the most 
 harrowing details of its ravages. The unfortu- 
 nate Indians, when in the height of the fever, 
 would plunge into a river, which generally 
 
niK SMALL-POX. 
 
 Oi 
 
 caused instant death ; and thousands of the 
 miserable wretches by suicide anticipated its 
 fatal termination. Whole villages were dt^po- 
 pulated, and an old man well known in the 
 Indian country, named Louis La Libert^, told 
 me that one morning during its height he saw 
 between two and three hundred bodies of men, 
 women, and children, suspended from trees, close 
 to an adjoining village of the Cree nation, the 
 surviving inhabitants of which did not exc^o^d 
 forty persons. They believed that the " Great 
 Master of Life had delivered them over to the 
 Evil Spirit for their wicked courses j" and for 
 many years afterwards those who escaped, or 
 survived the deadly contagion, strictly conformed 
 themselves to their own code of moral laws. 
 The recollection of it, however, is now fast 
 wearing away from their memory. Those who 
 bore any traces of it are nearly extinct ; and on 
 the eastern side of the mountains, intoxication, 
 and its attendant vices are becoming too preva- 
 lent. The western tribes still remember it with 
 a superstitious dread, of which Mr. M'Dougall 
 took advantage, when he learned that the Ton- 
 quin had been cut off. He assembled several of 
 the chieftains, and showing them a smail bottU^ 
 declared that it contained the small ^jox j that 
 
m 
 
 'M 
 
 ►vt 
 
 u 
 
 \ 
 
 I; 
 
 ^^ 
 
 11 
 
 
 'hi 
 
 ^80 
 
 ANGLO-INDIAN. 
 
 although his force was weak in number, he was 
 strong in medicine ; and that in consequence of 
 the treacherous cruelty of the Northern Indians, 
 he would open the bottle and send the small-pox 
 among them. The chiefs strongly remonstrated 
 against his doing so. They told him that they 
 and their relations were always friendly to the 
 white people ; that they would remain so ; that 
 if the small-pox was once let out, it would run 
 like fire among the good people as well as among 
 the bad ; and that it was inconsistent with justice 
 to punish friends for the crimes committed by 
 enemies. Mr. M'Dougall appeared to be con- 
 vinced by these reasons, and promised, that if 
 the white people were not attacked or robbed 
 for the future, the fatal bottle should not be 
 uncorked. He was greatly dreaded by the In- 
 dians, who were fully impressed with the idea 
 that he held their fate in his hands, and they 
 called him by way of pre-eminence, " the great 
 small-pox chief." 
 
 An Indian belonging to a small tribe on the 
 coast, to the southward of the Clatsops, occa- 
 sionally visited the fort. He was a perfect lusus 
 naturcBt and his history was rather curious. His 
 skin was fair, his face partially freckled, and his 
 hair quite red. He was about five feet ten inches 
 
 I 
 
 >!v^ 
 
FUTURE STATE. 
 
 287 
 
 
 high, was slender, but remarkably well made ; 
 his head had not undergone the flattening process ; 
 and he was called Jack Ramsay, in consequence 
 of that name having been punctured on his left 
 arm. The Indians allege that his father was an 
 English sailor, who had deserted from a trading 
 vessel, and had lived many years among their 
 tribe, one of whom he married ; that when Jack 
 was born, he insisted on preserving the child's 
 head in its natural state, and while young had 
 punctured the arm in the above manner. Old 
 Ramsay had died about twenty years before this 
 period : he had several more children, but Jack 
 was the only red-headed one among them. He 
 was the only half-bred I ever saw with red hair, 
 as that race in general partake of the swarthy 
 hue derived from their maternal ancestors. Poor 
 Jack was fond of his father's countrymen, and 
 had the decency to wear trousers whenever he 
 came to the fort. We therefore made a collection 
 of old clothes for his use, sufficient to last him for 
 many years. 
 
 The ideas of these Indians on the subject of a 
 future state do not differ much from the opinions 
 entertained by the natives of the interior. They 
 believe that those who have not committed mur- 
 der ; who have fulfilled the relative duties of son, 
 
 ^ J i 
 
 
 
588 
 
 TRADITIONS OF THE CKEATION. 
 
 ■I 
 •t 
 
 il 
 
 A! 
 
 father, and husband j who have been good fisher- 
 men, &c. will after their death go to a place of 
 happiness, in which they will find an abundant 
 supply of fish, fruit, &c. j while those who have 
 followed a contrary course of life will be con- 
 demned to a cold and barren country, in which 
 bitter fruits and salt water will form their prin- 
 cipal means of subsistence. Mr. Franchere, who 
 was stationed permanently at Fort George, and 
 who obtained an accurate knowledge of their lan- 
 guage, &c. states they have a tradition relative to 
 the origin of mankind, of which the following is 
 the substance : — Man was at first created by a 
 divinity named Etalapass ; but he was originally 
 imperfect. His mouth was not divided, his eyes 
 were closed, and his hands and feet immoveable ; 
 in short, he was rather a statue of flesh than a 
 living being. A second divinity, named Ecan- 
 nuniy less powerful than Etalapass^ but more 
 benevolent, seeing man in this imperfect state, 
 took pity on him, and with a sharp stone opened 
 his mouth, unclosed his eyes, and imparted mo- 
 tion to his hands and feet. Not satisfied with 
 these gifts, the compassionate deity taught man- 
 kind how to make canoes, paddles, nets, and all 
 their domestic utensils. He also overturned 
 rocks into the rivers, which, by obstructing the 
 
 
SUPERSTITIOUS OBSERVANCES. 
 
 ^28}) 
 
 id mo- 
 ld with 
 man- 
 md all 
 burned 
 ig the 
 
 progress of the fish through the waters, enabled 
 them to take sufficient to satisfy their wants. We 
 observed no idols among them^ and although 
 they had some small grotesque-looking figures, 
 carved out of wood, they seemed to pay them 
 no respect, and often offered to barter them for 
 trifles. 
 
 Civilized countries are not exempt from su- 
 perstition ; it is therefore not surprising to find 
 it exist among untutored savages. They believe 
 that if salmon be cut crossways the fishery will 
 be unproductive, and that a famine will follow. 
 In the summer of 1811, they at first brought but 
 a small quantity to the people who were then 
 building the fort. As Mr. M*Dougall knew 
 there was no scarcity, he reproached the chiefs 
 for furnishing such a scanty supply : they ad- 
 mitted the charge, but assigned as a reason their 
 fears that the white people would cut it in the 
 unlucky way. Mr. M'Dougal promised to follow 
 their plan, upon which they brought -a tolerable 
 good quantity, but all roasted ; and which, in 
 order to avoid displeasing them, our people were 
 obliged to eat before sunset each day. 
 
 The negotiations preceding a marriage are 
 short, and the ceremony itself simple. When a 
 young man has made his choice, he commissions 
 
 VOL. I. • u 
 
'!)!■ 
 
 1 1 
 
 290 
 
 AiAltRIAGE. 
 
 .' 
 
 }*>• 
 
 :') 
 
 il 
 
 \ \ 
 
 i» 
 
 It 
 
 i 
 
 A 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 -'Vt 
 
 
 Ifl 
 
 
 jHi 
 
 i 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 his parents or other relations to open the business 
 to the girl's relations. They are to receive a cer- 
 tain quantity of presents ; and when these are 
 agreed on, they all repair to the house intended 
 for the future residence of the young couple, to 
 which nearly all the inhabitants of the village 
 are invited. The presents, which consist of 
 slaves, axes, beads, kettles, haiqita, brass and 
 copper bracelets, &c. are now distributed by tho 
 young man, who in his turn receives an equal or 
 perhaps greater quantity, from the girFs relations. 
 The bride, decorated with the various ornaments 
 conmion among the tribe, is then led forth by a 
 few old women, and presented to the bridegroom. 
 He receives her as his wife j and the elders, after 
 wishing them plenty of fish, fruit, roots, and 
 children, retire from the house, accompanied by 
 all the strangers. The marriage tie is not indis- 
 soluble. A man may repudiate his wife, who 
 is then at liberty to take another husband. Infi- 
 delity is the general cause of these separations, 
 which however are of rare occurrence. 
 
 A man may have as many wives as his means 
 will permit him to keep. Some have four or 
 five. They live together in the greatest har- 
 mony ; and although their lord may love one 
 more than another, it causes no jealousy or dis- 
 imion among the rest. 
 
 I 
 
IIECOONITION AND UEPULSE. 
 
 291 
 
 business 
 ve a cer- 
 hese are 
 intended 
 ouple, to 
 Le village 
 onsist of 
 )ra88 and 
 ed by tho 
 a equal or 
 relations, 
 jrnaments 
 forth by a 
 idegroom. 
 [ders, after 
 oots, and 
 ipanied by 
 not indis- 
 wife, who 
 md. Infi- 
 sparations, 
 
 his means 
 e four or 
 aatest har- 
 love one 
 usy or dis- 
 
 Many of these women, who have followed a 
 depraved course of life before marriage, become 
 excellent and faithful wives afterwards ; an in- 
 stance of which I shall here relate : — In the early 
 part of this summer, one of the clerks, who had 
 been out on a trading excursion, happened to be 
 present at a marriage in the Clatsop village. He 
 was surprised at recognising in the bride an old 
 cMre amief who the preceding year had spent 
 three weeks with him in his tent, actually deco- 
 rated with some of the baubles he had then given 
 her. His eye caught hers for a moment ; but his 
 appearance excited not the least emotion, and 
 she passed him by as one whom she had never 
 seen. A few days afterwards she came to the 
 fort accompanied by her husband and other 
 Indians. She remained at the gate while the 
 men were selling some fish in the trading store. 
 Her old lover, observing her alone, attempted to 
 renew their former acquaintance j but she be- 
 trayed no symptom of recognition, and in a 
 cold distant manner told him to go about his 
 business. 
 
 All the Indians on the Columbia entertain a 
 strong aversion to ardent spirits, which they 
 regard as poison. They allege that slaves only 
 
 u 2 
 
I *! 
 
 
 'I? 
 
 ,1 ' 
 'J 
 
 
 W, 
 
 I,. 
 
 Q92 
 
 INTOXICAT i ON. — GOVERNMENT. 
 
 ^. 
 
 drink to excess ; and that drunkenness is degra- 
 ding to free men. On one occasion some of the 
 gentlemen at Fort George induced a son of Com- 
 comly the chief to drink a few glasses of rum. 
 Intoxication quickly followed, accompanied by 
 sickness ; in which condition he returned home 
 to his father's house, and for a couple of days 
 remained in a state of stupor. The old chief 
 subsequently reproached the people at the fort 
 for having degraded his son by making him 
 drunk, and thereby exposing him to the laughter 
 of his slaves. 
 
 Each village is governed by its own chief. He 
 possesses little authority, and is respected in pro- 
 portion to the number of wives, slaves, &c. 
 which he may keep. The greater number of 
 these, the greater the chief. He is entitled, how- 
 ever, to considerable posthumous honour; for 
 at his death the tribe go into mourning by cut- 
 ting their hair, and for some months continue to 
 chant a kind of funeral dirge to his memory. 
 As «?ach village forms a petty sovereignty, go- 
 verned by independent chieftains, differences 
 often arise between them. These differences are 
 generally settled by giving compensation for the 
 injury inflicted ; but in the event of a serious 
 
is degra- 
 ne of the 
 I of Com- 
 ; of rum. 
 »anied by 
 led home 
 B of days 
 old chief 
 b the fort 
 king him 
 e laughter 
 
 chief. He 
 ed in pro- 
 aves, &c. 
 umber of 
 ;led, how- 
 our ; for 
 |g by cut- 
 mtinue to 
 memory, 
 gnty, go- 
 ifferences 
 ences are 
 n for the 
 la serious 
 
 INDIAN WAHPAUE. 
 
 293 
 
 offence, such as murder, (which is very rare,) or 
 the abduction of a woman, (which is not uncom- 
 mon,) the parties prepare for war. 
 
 The great mass of the American Indians, in 
 their warlike encounters, fall suddenly on their 
 enemies, and taking them unprepared, massacre 
 or capture men, women, and children. The 
 plan adopted by the Chinooks forms an honoura- 
 ble exception to this system. Having once deter- 
 mined on hostilities, they give notice to the 
 enemy of the day on which they intend to make 
 the attack ; and having previously engaged as 
 auxiliaries a number of young men whom they 
 pay for that purpose, they embark in their canoes 
 for the scene of action. Several of their women 
 accompany them on these expeditions, and assist 
 in working the canoes. 
 
 On arriving at the enemy's village they enter 
 into a parley, and endeavour by negotiation to 
 terminate the quarrel amicably. Sometimes a 
 third party, who preserves a strict neutrality, 
 undertakes the office of mediator ; but should 
 their joint efforts fail in procuring redress, they 
 immediately prepare for action. Should the day 
 be far advanced, the combat is deferred, by mu- 
 tual consent, till the following morning ; and 
 they pass the intervening night in frightful yells, 
 
1 I 
 
 294 
 
 INDIAN WARFARE. 
 
 and making use of abusive and insulting Ian. 
 guage to each other. They generally fight from 
 their canoes, which they take care to incline to 
 one side, presenting the higher flank to the 
 enemy ; and in this position, with their bodies 
 quite bent, the battle commences. Owing to the 
 cover of their canoes, and their impenetrable 
 armour, it is seldom bloody ; and as soon as one 
 or two men fall, the party to whom they belonged 
 acknowledge themselves vanquished, and the 
 combat ceases. If the assailants be unsuccessful, 
 they return without redress ; but if conquerors, 
 they receive various presents from the vanquished 
 party in addition to their original demand. The 
 women and children are always sent away before 
 the engagement commences. 
 
 Their warlike weapons are the bow and arrow, 
 with a curious kind of short double-edged sword 
 or club, two and a half feet in length by six 
 inches in breadth. They seldom, however, fight 
 near enough to make use of this formidable in- 
 strument. 
 
 Their armour consists of a shirt of elk-skin 
 remarkably thick, doubled, and thrown over the 
 shoulders, with holes for the arms. It descends 
 to the ankles ; and from the thickness of the lea- 
 ther Is perfectly arrow-proof. The head is 
 
 
ilting Ian. 
 fight from 
 incline to 
 ik to the 
 leir bodies 
 ring to the 
 penetrable 
 )on as one 
 y belonged 
 , and the 
 jsuccessful, 
 onquerors, 
 vanquished 
 land. The 
 way before 
 
 and arrow, 
 ged sword 
 th by six 
 ever, fight 
 nidable in- 
 
 if elk-skin 
 over the 
 descends 
 )f the lea- 
 head is 
 
 ARMOUR. — CANOES. 
 
 295 
 
 covered by a species of helmet made of cedar 
 bark, bear grass, and leather, and is also impene- 
 trable by arrows. The neck, therefore, is the 
 only vital part of the body exposed to danger in 
 action. In addition to the above they have an- 
 other kind of armour, which they occasionally 
 wear in place of the leathern shirt. It is a spe- 
 cies of corset, formed of thin slips of hard wood 
 ingeniously laced together by bear grass, and is 
 much lighter and more pliable than the former ; 
 but it does not cover so much of the body. 
 They have a few guns, which they seldom use. 
 They are not good hunters ; and their chief 
 dependence for support is on the produce of the 
 water. It is unnecessary to mention that in 
 their warlike expeditions their faces and bodies 
 are painted in various colours, and with the 
 most grotesque figures. 
 
 Their canoes are of various forms and sizes. 
 The following description of the largest kind of 
 these vessels I take from Lewis and Clarke. It is 
 perfectly accurate, and more technical than I 
 could give it. " They are upwards of fifty feet 
 long, and will carry from eight to ten thousand 
 pounds weight, or from twenty to thirty persons. 
 Like all the canoes we have mentioned, they are 
 cut out of a single trunk of a tree, which is gene- 
 
I; 
 
 M'f 
 
 \'\ 
 
 •- 
 
 200 
 
 NAVIGATION. 
 
 i 
 
 \ t 
 
 (<■ 
 
 I 'i 
 
 rally white cedar, though the fir is sometimes 
 used. The sides are secured by cross bars or 
 round sticks, two or three inches in thickness, 
 which are inserted through holes made just below 
 the gunwales, and made fast with cords. The 
 upper edge of the gunwale itself is about five- 
 eighths of an inch thick, and four or five in 
 breadth ; and folds outwards so as to form a kind 
 of rim, which prevents the water from beating 
 into the boat. The bow and stern are about the 
 same height, and each provided with a comb reach- 
 ing to the bottom of the boat. At each end also 
 are pedestals, formed of the same solid piece, on 
 which are placed strange grotesque figures of men 
 or animi'ls rising sometimes to the height of five 
 feet, and composed cf small pieces of wood firmly 
 united, with great ingenuity, by inlaying and 
 mortising, without a spike of any kind. The 
 paddle is usually from four and a half to five feet 
 in length j the handle being thick for one-third 
 of its length, when it widens and is hollowed and 
 thinned on each side of the centre, which forms 
 a sort of rib. When they embark, one Indian 
 sits in the stern and steers with a paddle j the 
 others kneel in pairs in the bottom of the canoe, 
 and sitting on their heels paddle over the gun- 
 wale next to them. In this way they ride with 
 
HOUSES. 
 
 '2(r7 
 
 metimes 
 bars or 
 lickness, 
 st below 
 8. The 
 DUt five- 
 five in 
 n a kind 
 beating 
 bout the 
 lb reach- 
 end also 
 piece, on 
 38 of men 
 it of five 
 )d firmly 
 ing and 
 Id. The 
 five feet 
 ne-third 
 wed and 
 h forms 
 Indian 
 le j the 
 canoe, 
 he gun- 
 de with 
 
 perfect safety the highest waves, and venture 
 without the least concern in seas where other 
 boats or seamen could not live an instant. 
 They sit quietly and paddle, with no other move- 
 ment, except when any large wave throws the 
 boat on her side, and to the eye of the spectator 
 she seems lost : the man to windward then stea- 
 dies her by throwing his body towards the upper 
 side, and sinking his paddle deep into the waves, 
 appears to catch the water, and force it under 
 the boat, which the same stroke pushes on with 
 great velocity.** 
 
 The description of their houses, and their 
 manner of building them, I also extract from the 
 same authority : — 
 
 " The houses in this neighbourhood are all 
 large wooden buildings, varying in length from 
 twenty to sixty feet, and from fourteen to twenty 
 in width.* They are constructed in the follow- 
 ing manner : Two or more posts of split timber, 
 agreeably to the number of partitions, are sunk in 
 the ground, above which they rise to the height 
 of fourteen or eighteen feet. They are hollowed 
 at the top so au to receive the ends of a round 
 beam or pole, stretching from one end to the 
 
 '* I have seen some ot" tlieir houses upwards of 90 feet long, 
 and from 30 to 40 broad. 
 
 (^ 
 
•i 
 
 V* 
 
 :j ; 
 
 !( 
 
 ('. 
 
 298 
 
 HOUSES. 
 
 other, and forming the upper point of the roof 
 for the whole extent of the building. On each 
 side of this range is placed another, which forms 
 the eaves of the house, and is about five feet 
 high ; but as the building is often sunk to the 
 depth of four or five feet, the eaves come very- 
 near the surface of the earth. Smaller pieces of 
 timber are now extended by pairs in the form of 
 rafters, from the lower to the upper beam, where 
 they are attached at both ends with cords of 
 cedar bark. On these rafters two or three 
 ranges of small poles are placed horizontally, and 
 secured in the same way with strings of cedar 
 bark. The sides are now made with a range of 
 wide boards sunk a small distance into the 
 ground, with the upper ends projecting above 
 the poles at the eaves, to which they are secured 
 by a beam passing outside, parallel with the eave 
 poles, and tied by cords of cedar bark passing 
 through holes made in the boards at certain dis- 
 tances. The gable ends and partitions are formed 
 in the same way, being fastened by beams on the 
 outside, parallel to the rafters. The roof is then 
 covered with a double range of thin boards, ex- 
 cept an aperture of two or three feet in the 
 centre, for the smoke to pass through. The en- 
 trance is by a small hole, cut out of the boards, 
 
HOUSES. 
 
 299 
 
 le roof 
 n each 
 I forms 
 re feet 
 to the 
 e very 
 eces of 
 orm of 
 , where 
 ords of 
 • throe 
 ily, and 
 f cedar 
 ange of 
 ito the 
 \ above 
 secured 
 e eave 
 passing 
 lain dis- 
 formed 
 on the 
 is then 
 ds, ex- 
 in the 
 he en- 
 oards. 
 
 and just large enough to admit the body. The 
 very largest houses only are divided by parti- 
 tions ; for though three or more families reside 
 in the same room, there is quite space enough for 
 all of them. 
 
 " In the centre of each room is a space six or 
 eight feet square, sunk to the depth of twelve 
 inches below the rest of the floor, and enclosed 
 by four pieces of square timber. Here they make 
 the fire, for which purpose pine bark is gene- 
 rally preferred. Around this fire-place mats are 
 spread, and serve as seats during the day, and 
 very frequently as beds at night : there is how- 
 ever a more permanent bed made, by fixing in 
 two, or sometimes three sides of the room, posts 
 reaching from the roof down to the ground, and 
 at the distance of four feet from the wall. From 
 these posts to the wall itself one or two ranges 
 of boards are placed, so as to form shelves, on 
 which they either sleep, or stow their various ar- 
 ticles of merchandise. The uncured fish is hung 
 in the smoke of their fire, as is also the flesh of 
 the elk, when they are fortunate enough to pro- 
 cure any, which is but rarely." 
 
 Their culinary articles consist of a large square 
 kettle made of cedar wood, a hw platters made 
 of ash, and awkward spoons made of the same 
 
I 
 
 'I- 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 300 
 
 CULINARY OPERATIONS. 
 
 material. Their mode of cooking is however 
 more expeditious than ours. Having put a cer- 
 tain quantity of water into the kettle, they throw 
 in several hot stones, which quickly cause the 
 water to boil ; the fish or meat is then put in, 
 and the steam is kept from evaporating by a 
 small mat thrown over the kettle. By this 
 system a large salmon will be boiled in less than 
 twenty minutes, and meat in a proportionably 
 short space of time. They are not scrupulously 
 clean in their cooking. A kettle in which salmon 
 is boiled in the morning may have elk dressed in 
 it the same evening, and the following day be 
 doomed to cook a dish of sturgeon, without 
 being washed out, or scarcely rinsed. They oc- 
 casionally roast both their meat and fish on small 
 wooden brochettes, similar to those used by the 
 upper Indians. 
 
 It will no doubl be regarded as a subject of 
 surprise, that in felling the timber for their 
 houses, and in the laborious operation of forming 
 their canoes, they had not, previous to our arri- 
 val, an axe. Their only instruments consisted 
 of a chisel generally formed out of an old file, a 
 kind of oblong stone, which they used as a ham- 
 mer, and a mallet made of spruce knot, well oiled 
 and hardened by the action of fire. With these 
 
FISHING. 
 
 301 
 
 wretched tools they cut down trees from thirty 
 to forty feet in circumference j and with unparal- 
 leled patience and perseverance continued their 
 tedious and laborious undertaking until their 
 domicile was roofed or their canoe fit to encoun- 
 ter the turbulent waves of the Columbia. 
 
 As their chief source of subsistence depends 
 on their fisheries, they pay great attention to their 
 nets, in the manufacture of which they exhibit 
 their usual ingenuity. They occasionally fish 
 with the hook and line. They make use of the 
 common straight net, the scooping or dipping 
 net, and the gig. Lewis and Clarke mention 
 that " the first is of different lengths and depths, 
 and used in taking salmon, carr, and trout, in the 
 deep inlets among the marshy grounds, and the 
 mouths of deep creeks. The scooping net is used 
 for small fish in the spring and summer season ; 
 and in both kinds the net is formed of silk grass, 
 or the bark of white cedar. The gig is used at 
 all seasons, and for all kinds of fish they can pro- 
 cure with it ; so too is the hook and line ; of 
 which the line is made of the same material as 
 the net, and the hook generally brought by the 
 traders ; though before the whites came, they 
 made hooks out of two small pieces of bone, 
 resembling the European hook, but with a much 
 
 ■/. 
 
i / 
 
 302 
 
 GAMING. — HAIQUA. 
 
 more acute angle, where the two pieces were 
 joined." 
 
 Gambling is one of their most incorrigible 
 vices ; and so inveterately are they attached to 
 it, that the unfortunate gamester often finds him- 
 self stripped of slaves, beads, haiquat and even 
 nets. Their common game is a simple kind of 
 hazard. One man takes a small stone which he 
 changes for some time from hand to hand, all the 
 while humming a slow monotonous air. The 
 bet is then made ; and according as his adversary 
 succeeds in guessing the hand in which the stone 
 is concealed, he wins or loses. They seldom 
 cheat ; and submit to their losses with the most 
 philosophical resignation. 
 
 Haiquat which I have so oftea mentioned, is 
 a white round shell of extreme hardness, varying 
 from one to four inches in length, and from 
 three eighths to half an inch in circumference. 
 It is hollow, slightly curved, and tapers a little 
 towards the ends. These shells are highly esti- 
 mated, the longest being the most valuable. 
 They are found in the neighbourhood of Nootka. 
 and form an important article of local traffic. 
 The Indians regulate the prices of their various 
 articles by haiqua ; a fathom of the best descrip- 
 tion being equal in value to ten good beaver skins. 
 
 I 
 
MEDICAL TREATMENT. 
 
 303 
 
 es were 
 
 arrigible 
 iched to 
 nds him- 
 nd even 
 J kind of 
 which he 
 J, all the 
 ir. The 
 idversary 
 the stone 
 f seldom 
 the most 
 
 ioned, is 
 varying 
 md from 
 nference. 
 a little 
 hly esti- 
 valuable. 
 Nootka. 
 traffic, 
 various 
 descrip- 
 er skins. 
 
 The most enlightened nations are inundated 
 with charlatans : it is therefore not surprising 
 they should flourish among rude barbarians. 
 Every Indian village has its quack doctor ; or, 
 as they call him, " the strong man of medicine." 
 The moment a native is attacked with sickness, 
 no matter of what description, the physician is 
 sent for. He immediately commences operations 
 by stretching his patient on his back ; while a 
 number of his friends and relations surround him, 
 each carrying a long and a short stick, with which 
 they beat time to a mournful air which the doc- 
 tor chants, and in which they join at intervals. 
 Sometimes a slave is despatched to the roof of 
 the house, which he belabours most energetically 
 with his drum-sticks, joining at the same time 
 with a loud voice the chorus inside. The man 
 of medicine then kneels, and presses with all his 
 force his two fists on the patient's stomach. The 
 unfortunate man, tortured with the pain produced 
 by this violent operation, utters the most piercing 
 cries ; but his voice is drowned by the doctor 
 and the by-standers, who chant loud and louder 
 still the mighty " song of medicine." 
 
 At the end of each stanza the operator seizes 
 the patient's hands, which he joins together and 
 blows on. He thus continues alternately press- 
 
inMi 
 
 304 
 
 QUACKERY. 
 
 m 
 
 ing and blowing until a small white stone, which 
 he had previously placed in the patient's mouth, 
 is forced out. This he exhibits with a triumphant 
 air to the man's relations ; and with all the con- 
 fidence and pomposity of modern quackery, as- 
 sures them the disease is destroyed, and that the 
 patient must undoubtedly recover. Mr. Fran- 
 ch^re states he has seen some of them carefully 
 envelop the small stone, which they call the 
 source of evil, in a piece of cedar bark, and 
 throw it into the fire. 
 
 It frequently happens that a man, who might 
 have been cured by a simple dose of medicine, is 
 by this abominable system destroyed ; but whe- 
 ther recovery or death be the consequence, the 
 quack is equally recompensed. Some of the 
 more intelligent undoubtedly perceive the impo- 
 sition which these fellows practise ; but the 
 great faith which the ignorant and superstitious 
 multitude have in their skill, deters any man 
 from exposing their knavery. Latterly, how- 
 ever, numbers of their sick have applied for re- 
 lief and assistance at Fort George ; and as our 
 prescriptions have been generally attended with 
 success, their belief in the infallibility of those 
 jugglers has been considerably weakened. 
 
 From the doctor to death, the charlatan to the 
 
FUNERAL KITES. 
 
 305 
 
 , which 
 mouth, 
 mphant 
 he con- 
 :ery, as- 
 that the 
 r. Fran- 
 2arefully 
 call the 
 ark, and 
 
 ho might 
 sdicine, is 
 but whe- 
 lence, the 
 e of the 
 ;he impo- 
 but the 
 lerstitious 
 any man 
 [ly, how- 
 led for re- 
 ,d as our 
 ided with 
 of those 
 
 id. 
 tn to the 
 
 coffin, the transition is not unnatural. When a 
 Chinook dies, it matters not whether from natu- 
 ral causes or the effects of quackery, his remains 
 are deposited in a small canoe, the body being 
 previously enveloped in skins or mats. His bow, 
 arrows, and other articles are laid by his side. 
 The canoe is then placed on a high platform near 
 the river's side, or on rocks out of the reach of 
 the tide, and other mats tied over it. If the re- 
 lations of the deceased can afford it, they place a 
 larger canoe reversed over the one containing 
 his body, and both are firmly tied together. His 
 wives, relatives, and slaves go into mourning by 
 cutting their hair j and for some time after his 
 death repair twice a-day, at the rising and setting 
 of the sun, to an adjoining wood to chant his fu- 
 neral dirge. 
 
 VOL. r. 
 
 X 
 
SOC) 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE INTERIOR. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Voyage to the interior — Party attacked, and one man killed — 
 Arrive at Spokan House — Joy of the Indians at our return — 
 The chiefs speech — Sketch of Mr. M'Donald — Duel pre- 
 vented between him and a chief — Kettle Indians, their sur- 
 prise at seeing white men — Curious account of an herma- 
 phrodite chief — Death of Jacques Hoole. 
 
 On the 5th of August, 1814, we left Fort 
 George. Our party, including proprietors and 
 clerks, consisted of sixty men in nine heavily 
 loaded canoes. We arrived early the third day 
 at the foot of the rapids. It was here our men 
 had been robbed the preceding autumn ; and 
 here also Mr. Stewart's party had been attacked, 
 and himself wounded the following winter. We 
 therefore took more than usual precautions, and 
 formed a strong guard to protect the carriers. 
 The natives were numerous, but evinced no dis- 
 position to be troublesome. As the chief did 
 not appear with the flag, a party proceeded to 
 the village and inquired for him. They were 
 told he was absent from home. The Indim 
 whom we suspected of having fired at Michel 
 was also invisible. Their non-appearance looked 
 
 
 I' i 
 
PILFERINC. 
 
 807 
 
 man killed — 
 ; our return — 
 d— Duel pre- 
 ins, their sur- 
 of an herma- 
 
 5 left Fort 
 )rietor8 and 
 line heavily 
 
 6 third day 
 Ire our men 
 tumn -, and 
 [en attacked, 
 
 inter. We 
 lutions, and 
 ;he carriers, 
 iced no dis- 
 le chief did 
 •oceeded to 
 They were 
 'he Indim 
 at Michel 
 •ance looked 
 
 rather suspicious, and induced uh to be doubly 
 cautious. By hard labour we finished the portag-e 
 in one day, and encamped at the upper end. We 
 arranged the goods and canoes in such a manner 
 as to prevent a surprise, and the whole party was 
 divided into two watches. At intervals during 
 the night we heard footsteps among the rocks, 
 and in the woods j but it passed over quietly, 
 and at day-break we commenced reloading. A 
 few of the natives came to us unarmed, and 
 brought with them some fish and roots, which 
 we purchased ; and having distributed some to- 
 bacco among them, pushed off. The day after 
 we reached the narrows and falls in safety. 
 
 When the last portage had been nearly finished 
 numbers of the Eneeshurs collected about us, and 
 became very troublesome. They made several 
 attempts to pilfer, and we were cr istrained to use 
 some violence to keep them in jneck. We asked 
 repeatedly for the chief ; but were answered that 
 he was in the plains hunting : this we did not 
 believe, and finding that they still persevered in 
 seizing every loose article they could pick up, we 
 were obliged to order corporal punishment to be 
 inflicted on three of the ringleaders. They went 
 away followed by a numerous party of their friends. 
 Their looks betokened revenge -, and the few who 
 
 X 2 
 
308 
 
 NIGHT ATTACK. 
 
 i! 
 
 remained told us to be on our guard, as they heard 
 the others talking in a threatening manner. We 
 therefore reloaded quickly, and crossed over to 
 the opposite side. It was high and rocky, and 
 possessed many points from which an enemy could 
 attack us with effect. The day-light was fast re- 
 ceding ; every one lent a hand to work the canoes, 
 and still no place presented itself at which we 
 could land with safety. With much difficulty and 
 labour we at length reached the long rocky island 
 already mentioned ; and as it was then quite dark, 
 we had no alternative but to land in a small sandy 
 bay surrounded by high craggy rocks, of which 
 the island was chiefly composed. We could not 
 procure any wood, and were obliged to dine and 
 sup on some cold boiled rice which had been left 
 from morning. It was judged adviseable not to 
 pitch the tents ; and we slept on the beach behind 
 the bales and cases of merchandise in rather an 
 irregular manner. The first watch, to which I 
 belonged, passed over tranquilly ; and we retired 
 to sleep at midnight, on being relieved by the 
 second. 
 
 Our repose was not of long continuance. About 
 half an hour before day-break the sry of Lea sau- 
 cagesnousjlechent! Les sauvagesnousflechent!* 
 
 * Tlie savHges iire sliootiiig at us witli arrows. 
 
ey heard 
 er. We 
 
 over to 
 ;ky, and 
 ny could 
 s fast re- 
 e canoes, 
 hich we 
 ;ulty and 
 ky island 
 lite dark, 
 all sandy 
 of which 
 jould not 
 dine and 
 been left 
 >le not to 
 
 1 behind 
 ather an 
 
 which I 
 '^e retired 
 
 d by the 
 
 About 
 Lea mu' 
 'echent /* 
 
 vs. 
 
 Loss OF LIFE. 
 
 iiO[) 
 
 rung in our ears, followed by the report of seve- 
 ral shots. Every man instantly seized his arms, 
 and we discharged a volley at a rocky eminence 
 which commanded the little bay, and from which 
 the enemy had fired down on our sentinels. This 
 dislodged the savages j but owing to the darkness 
 of the morning, and our ignorance of the inte- 
 rior .of the island, we did not think it prudent to 
 pursue them. 
 
 It was impossible to ascertain whether any of 
 our balls had taken effect on the enemy ; and ap- 
 prehensive of another attack in a spot so badly 
 calculated for defence, and in which we were 
 completely exposed, orders were given to load the 
 canoes. In the hurry attendant upon this ope- 
 ration we did not at first miss one of our men, 
 named Baptiste L*Amoureux, whom we found 
 lying wounded at the farther end of the bay, at 
 which he had been posted as a sentinel. His 
 moans conducted us to the spot. A ball had 
 passed through his left breast, and came out near 
 the shoulder. Every assistance was rendered 
 him, but in vain j he never uttered a word ; and 
 ere the morning dawned he had ceased to breathe. 
 We did not before imagine these savages had 
 any fire-arms among them ; but this event showed 
 that we had been mistaken. 
 
« E 
 
 ! 
 
 r 
 
 :lj 
 
 h 
 
 ^1 
 
 310 
 
 FLYING SKIRMI.il. 
 
 No other fatality occurred, although several of 
 the party had wonderful escapes. An arrow 
 passed through the collar of one man's coat, and 
 the nightcap of another was pierced through. 
 Mr. La Rocque and I slept together, and an 
 arrow penetrated six inches into the ground be- 
 tween our necks. Our safety may in a great 
 degree be attributed to a number of the arrows 
 having been intercepted by the bales and cases of 
 trading goods. 
 
 The canoes were quickly loaded, and at day- 
 break we pushed off from this dangerous spot. 
 As we paddled up the south side of the river 
 some arrows were discharged at us from the 
 island. We fired a few shots in return j but 
 from the manner the .issailants were covered, 
 we conjectured our balls fell harmless. 
 
 On nearing the upper end of the island, we 
 caught a passing view of forty or fifty of the 
 savages not more than two hundred yards dis- 
 tant. Orders were immediately given to those 
 who had their guns ready to fire ; but before a 
 triggr^r was pulled they had vanished. We landed 
 at the spot ; and a few of us, who ascended the 
 rocks, observed them at a considerable distance 
 running like hunted deer. We discharged a few 
 random shots after them, upon which w<> re- 
 
 
JOUltNBY IlESUMICD. 
 
 311 
 
 jveral of 
 n arrow 
 ;oat, and 
 through. 
 
 and an 
 )und be- 
 
 a great 
 e arrows 
 I cases of 
 
 d at day- 
 ous spot, 
 the river 
 from the 
 urn ; but 
 covered, 
 
 sland, we 
 ty of the 
 ards dis- 
 to those 
 before a 
 Ve landed 
 nded the 
 distance 
 ed a few 
 h wo re- 
 
 embarked and proceeded on our voyage. At 
 half-past eight we put ashore at a low sandy 
 point covered with willows and cotton wood, 
 for the purpose of breakfasting, and interring the 
 body of L'Amoureux. The men were imme- 
 diately set to work to dig a grave, into which 
 were lowered the remains of the unfortunate 
 Canadian. A few short prayers were said in 
 French : and after the earth was thrown in, to a 
 level with the surface, it was covered over with 
 dry sand in such a manner as to keep the natives 
 in ignorance of the occurrence. 
 
 We remained here a few hours to refit, at the 
 end of which we resumed our journey. We 
 saw no Indians during the remainder of the day, 
 and encamped late on a low stony island, above 
 a rapid, on which we found plenty of drift wood. 
 The following day we passed a few villages of 
 the friendly tribes, from whom we purchased 
 some horses for the kettle. From hence to the 
 Wallah Wallahs, with whom we stopped one day, 
 nothing particular occurred. They received us 
 in their usual friendly manner ; and or inquiring 
 from them to what tribe the Indians belonged 
 who had given my small party such a chase the 
 preceding autumn, they replied that they were 
 relatives of the man who had been hanged by 
 
01' , 
 
 : ! ■ ' 
 
 il 
 
 ;/! 
 
 / 
 
 
 i 
 
 If) '.' 
 
 I" 
 
 Hi 
 
 II p 
 
 tn^2 
 
 EXAGGiaiATIoNS. 
 
 Mr. Clarke on Lewis River, and were part of 
 the Upper Nez Perc(''8 ; that they were very bad 
 people, much addicted to thieving*, and that we 
 shoulu be very cautious how we fell in their 
 Avay, as they had vowed to kill a white man as a 
 satisfaction for the death of their relation. 
 
 We met a few of the Nez Percys at the mouth 
 of Lewis River : they appeared friendly, and 
 sold us some horses. From this place nothing- 
 particular occurred until the 23d of August, on 
 which day we arrived at Oakinagan. The news 
 of the attack had preceded us, accompanied by 
 the usual exaggerations of Indians. Mr. Ross, 
 who was in charge of that establishment, in- 
 formed us that the first intelligence he received 
 stated that ten white men and twenty Indians 
 had been killed. By other accounts our Joss 
 was varied from fifteen to twenty, and one 
 statement destroyed half the party, and sent the 
 remainder back to the sea, with the loss of all 
 the goods. 
 
 From this place Mr. Keith proceeded with 
 dispatches to the other side of the mountains ; 
 and the various parties separated for their sum- 
 mer destinations. Mine was Spokan House, in 
 company with Messrs Stewart, M'Millan, and 
 M'Donald. We left Oakinagan on the 27th, 
 
 1 < 1 1 i »' 
 
 ' I' I 
 
INDIAN IIAIIANGUK. 
 
 313 
 
 D jmrt of 
 very bad 
 that we 
 in their 
 man as a 
 n. 
 
 le mouth 
 (lly, and 
 nothing 
 ugust, on 
 rhe news 
 )anied by 
 Mr. Ross, 
 iment, in- 
 > received 
 Indians 
 our loss 
 and one 
 d sent the 
 loss of all 
 
 ded with 
 ountains ; 
 their sum- 
 House, in 
 illan, and 
 the 27th, 
 
 and readied Spokan on the 31st of August. 
 The trading goods had been exhausted long be- 
 fore, and the Indians had been upwards of two 
 months without ammunition. Our arrival there- 
 fore was hailed with great joy. 
 
 The whole tribe assembled round the fort, 
 and viewed with delight the kegs of powder and 
 the bales of tobacco as they were unloaded from 
 the horses. A large circle was formed in the 
 court-yard, into the centre of which we en- 
 tered ; and having lit the friendly calumet, 
 smoked a few rounds to celebrate the meeting. 
 A quantity of tobacco was then presented to 
 each of the men, and the chief delivered a long 
 oration ; part of which, addressing us, ran as 
 follows: — 
 
 •• My heart is glad to see you : my heart is 
 glad to see you. We were a long time very 
 hungry for tobacco ; and some of our young 
 men said you would never come back. They 
 were angry, and said to me, * The white men 
 made us love tobacco almost as much as we love 
 our children, and now we are starving for it. 
 They brought us their wonderful guns, which 
 we traded from them ; we threw by our arrows 
 as useless, because we knew they were not so 
 strong to kill the deer as the guns j and now we 
 
314 
 
 INDIAN HARANGUE. 
 
 i ! 
 
 are idle, with our guns, as the white men have 
 no fire-powder, or balls, to give us, and we have 
 broken our arrows, and almost forgotten how t o 
 use them : the white men are very bad, and 
 have deceived us.' But I spoke to them, and I 
 said. You are fools ; you have no patience. The 
 white men's big canoes are a long time coming 
 over the Stinking Lake* that divides their 
 country from ours. They told me on going 
 away that they would come back, and I know 
 they would not tell lies." Then turning to his 
 countrymen, he continued, " Did I not tell you 
 that the white men would not tell lies? You 
 are fools, great fools, and have no patience. 
 Let us now show our joy at meeting our friends; 
 and to-morrow let all our hunters go into the 
 plains, and up the hills, and kill birds and deer 
 for the good white men.** They then com- 
 menced dancing, jumping, and crying out in a 
 most discordant manner. 
 
 it 
 
 The good white men, the good white men, 
 Our hearts are glad for the good white men. 
 
 The good white men, the good white men, 
 Dance and sing for the good white men. 
 
 Then giving three cheers, something like the 
 
 * The sea. So called from its saline (jualitii'S. 
 
 V ' 
 
LIVE-STOCK. 
 
 ins 
 
 len have 
 we have 
 n how t o 
 bad, and 
 jni, and I 
 nee. The 
 le coming 
 des their 
 on going 
 1 I know 
 ling to his 
 Dttell you 
 ies ? You 
 ) patience, 
 ur friends ; 
 ) into the 
 and deer 
 then com- 
 T out in a 
 
 len, 
 
 lite men, 
 lien, 
 men. 
 
 ff like the 
 
 iilities. 
 
 " Hip, hip, hurra 1" of our domestic bacchana- 
 lians, they retired to the village. 
 
 The next morning the hunters procured a fresh 
 stock of ammunition, and, for some weeks follow- 
 ing, our table was plentifully supplied with excel- 
 lent grouse, wild geese, and ducks in prime 
 order. We had planted the year before some 
 turnips, potatoes, cabbage, and other esculents, 
 which yielded a pretty good crop. The quantity 
 was increased the following spring ; and this 
 autumn we had an abundance of these vegetables. 
 We had brought up a cock, three hens, three 
 goats, and three hogs. The Indians were quite 
 astonished at beholding them. They called the 
 fowl " the white men's grouse ;" the goats were 
 denominated " the white men's deer ;" and the 
 swine, " the white men*s bears." They inquired 
 if animals of the above description were all tame 
 in our country ; and on being answered in the 
 affirmative, they asked, if they caught some of 
 those to which they compared them, could we 
 tame them in a similar manner ? we told them to 
 catch a few young ones, and we would make the 
 attempt. A young bear was shortly secured : he 
 •was tied in the stye with the pigs, and fed daily 
 by one of our Canadians, of whom he became 
 very fond, and who in a short time taught him 
 
 s^l 
 
310 
 
 HETEROGENEOUS LINGUIST. 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 to dance, beg-, and [play many tricks, which de- 
 lighted the Indians exceedingly. 
 
 While we were here a curious incident oc- 
 cured between Mr. M'Donald and an Indian, 
 which I shall preface by a short account of the 
 former. He belonged to a highly respectable 
 family which emigrated from Inverness-shire to 
 Canada while he was a lad. His first accents 
 were lisped in Gaelic j but in the capital of the 
 Highlands, so celebrated for its pure English, he 
 made considerable progress in our language. On 
 arriving in Canada he was obliged lo '>arn 
 French, in which he had made some pro i . n /, 
 when he joined the North-west Company as an 
 apprentice-clerk. At the period I speak of he 
 had been ten years absent from Canada, and had 
 travelled over animmense extent of Indian coun- 
 try. He seldom remained more than one winter 
 at any particular place, and had a greater facility 
 of acquiring than of retaining the language of the 
 various tribes with whom he came in contact. 
 He was subject to temporary fits of abstraction, 
 during which the country of his auditory was for- 
 gotten, and their lingual knowledge set at de- 
 fiance by the most strange and ludicrous melange 
 of Gaelic, English, French, and half a dozen 
 Indian dialects. Wheuovcr any thin<»' occurred 
 
SQUABBLE. 
 
 317 
 
 hicli tle- 
 
 lent oc- 
 Indian, 
 t of the 
 spectable 
 .shire to 
 t accents 
 al of the 
 nglish, he 
 age. On 
 f,o '>arn 
 'O'.'i ' **/» 
 any as an 
 jak of he 
 , and had 
 ian coun- 
 ne winter 
 ;er facility 
 |age of the 
 contact. 
 »straction, 
 y was for- 
 ;et at de- 
 ls melange 
 a dozen 
 occurred 
 
 to ruffle his temper, it was highly amusing to 
 hear him give vent to his passion in Diaouls^ God 
 d — Sy Sacres, and invocations of the " evil spirit** 
 in Indian : he was however a good-natured, in- 
 offensive companion, easily irritated, and as easily 
 appeased. His appearance was very striking : 
 in height he was six feet four inches, with broad 
 shoulders, large bushy wiskers, and red hair, 
 which for some years had not felt the scissors, 
 and which sometimes falling over his face and 
 shoulders, gave to his countenance a wild and 
 uncouth appearance. He had taken a Spokan 
 wife, by whom he had two children. A great 
 portion of his leisure time was spent in the com- 
 pany of her relations, by whom, and indeed by 
 the Indians in general, he was highly beloved : 
 their affection however was chastened by a mo- 
 derate degree of fear, with which his gigantic 
 body and indomitable bravery inspired them. 
 
 One day as we were sitting down to dinner, 
 one of our men, followed by a native, rushed into 
 the dining-room, and requested we would in- 
 stantly repair to the village to prevent bloodshed, 
 as Mr. M 'Donald was about to fight a duel with 
 one of the chiefs. We ran to the scene of action, 
 and found our friend surrounded b} a number of 
 Indians, all of ^vlioni kept at a respectful distance. 
 
.'518 
 
 CURIOUS DIALOGUE. 
 
 He had his fowling-piece, which he changed 
 from one hand to the other, and appeared vio- 
 lently chafed. The chief stood ahout twenty 
 yards from him, and the following colloquv 
 took place between them, which, for the in- 
 formation of my unlearned readers, I shall 
 translate. 
 
 M*D. — " Come on, now, you rascal I you toad I 
 you dog 1 Will you fight ?" 
 
 Indian. — " I will : — but you're a foolish man. 
 A chief should not be passionate. I always 
 thought the white chiefs were wise men." 
 
 M*D. — " I want none of your jaw : I say you 
 cheated me. You're a dog I Will you fight V* 
 
 Indian. — " You are not wise. You get angry 
 like a woman ; but I will fight. Let us go to the 
 wood. Are you ready ?" 
 
 M*D. — ** Why, you d — d rascal, what do you 
 mean ? I'll fight you here. Take your distance 
 like a brave man, face to face, and we'll draw 
 lots for the first shot, or fire together, whichever 
 you please. 
 
 Indian. — ** You are a greater fool than I 
 thought you were. Who ever heard of a wise 
 warrior standing before his enemy's gun to be 
 shot at like a dog \ No one but a fool of a white 
 man would do so." 
 
 i;f 
 
INDIAN SELF-POSSESSION. 
 
 319 
 
 jhanged 
 
 red vio- 
 
 twenty 
 
 coUoquv 
 
 the in- 
 
 I shall 
 
 rou 
 
 toad! 
 
 lish man. 
 I always 
 
 n. 
 
 I say you 
 .u fight ?" 
 get angry 
 s go to the 
 
 lat do you 
 ir distance 
 ^e'll draw 
 I whichever 
 
 bl than I 
 
 of a wise 
 
 ^un to be 
 
 I of a white 
 
 M*D. — " What do you mean ? What way do 
 you want to fight ?" 
 
 Indian. — " The way that all red warriors fight. 
 Let us take our guns, and retire to yonder wood ; 
 place yourself behind one tree, and I will take 
 my stand behind another, and then we shall see 
 who will shoot the other first I" 
 
 M*D. — " You are afraid, and you're a coward." 
 Indian. — " I am not afraid j and you're a fool.'* 
 M*D. — " Come then, d — n my eyes if I care. 
 Here's at you your own way." And he was 
 about proceeding to the wood, when we inter- 
 fered, had the combatants disarmed, and after 
 much entreaty induced our brave Gael to return 
 
 to the fort. 
 
 The quarrel originated in a gambling transac- 
 tion, in which M'Donald imagined he had been 
 cheated, and under that impression struck the 
 chief and called him a rogue. The latter told 
 him he took advantage of his size and strength, 
 and that he would not meet him on equal terms 
 with his gun. This imputation roused all his 
 ire. He instantly darted into the field with his 
 fowling-piece, followed by the chief, when by 
 our arrival we prevented an encounter which, in 
 all probability, would have proved fatal to our 
 friend. 
 
320 
 
 SKETCH OF CHARACTER. 
 
 The gigantic figure, long red flowing locks, 
 foaming mouth, and violent gesticulation of 
 M'Donald, presented a striking and characteris- 
 tic contrast to the calm and immutable features 
 of the chieftain. His inflexible countenance was 
 for a moment disturbed by something like a 
 smile, when he told his opponent that no one 
 but a fool would stand before a gun to be shot at 
 like a dog. In fact, M'Donald's proposition ap- 
 peared to him so much at variance with his re- 
 ceived notions of wisdom, that he could not com- 
 prehend how any man in his senses could make 
 such an oifer. On explaining to him afterwards 
 the civilised mode of deciding gentlemanly quar- 
 rels, he manifested the utmost incredulity, and 
 declared that he could not conceive how people 
 so wise in other respects, should be guilty of 
 such foolishness. But when we assured him in 
 the most positive manner that we were stating 
 facts, he shook his head, and said, *' I see plainly 
 there are fools every where." 
 
 M*Donald was a most extraordinary and ori- 
 ginal character. To the gentleness of a lamb he 
 united the courage of a lion. He was particu- 
 larly affectionate to men of small size, whether 
 equals or inferiors, and would stand their banter- 
 ing with the utmost good-humour ; btit if any 
 
 > 
 
FISTY-CUFFS. 
 
 321 
 
 locks, 
 on of 
 icteris- 
 eatures 
 ice was 
 
 like a 
 no one 
 I shot at 
 tion ap- 
 i his re- 
 lot com- 
 Id make 
 ;erwards 
 ily quar- 
 ility, and 
 people 
 
 guilty of 
 him in 
 stating 
 plainly 
 
 md ori- 
 llamb he 
 
 particu- 
 
 Iwhether 
 
 banter- 
 
 tt if any 
 
 man approaching his own altitude presumed to 
 encroach "^oo far on his good nature, a lowering 
 look and distended nostrils warned the intruder 
 of an approaching eruption. 
 
 One of our Canadian voyageurSt named Bazil 
 Lucie, a remarkably strong man, about six feet 
 three inches high, with a muscular frame, and 
 buffalo neck, once said something which he 
 thought bordered on disrespect. Any man under 
 five feet ten might have made use of the same 
 language with impunity, but from such a man 
 as Lucie, who was a kind of bully over his com- 
 rades, it could not be borne ; he accordingly told 
 him to hold his tongue, and threatened to chas- 
 tise him if he said another word. This was said 
 before several of the men, and Lucie replied 
 by saying that he might thank the situation he 
 held for his safety, or he should have satisfaction 
 sv/r le champ. M'Donald instantly fired, and 
 asked him if he would fight with musket, sword, 
 or pistol \ but Lucie declared he had no notion 
 of fighting in that manner, adding that his only 
 weapons were his fists. The pugnacious Celt 
 resolving not to leave him any chance of escape, 
 stripped off his coat, called him un enfant de 
 chienne, and challenged him to fight ccmme 
 un polisson. Lucie immediately obeyed the call, 
 
 VOL. I. Y 
 
^l\ 
 
 322 
 
 INDIAN WARFARE. 
 
 <l 
 
 l'\ 
 
 and to work they fell. I was not present at the 
 combat ; but some of the men told me that in 
 less than ten minutes Bazil was completely dis- 
 abled, and was unfit to work for some weeks 
 after. 
 
 McDonald frequently, for the mere love of 
 fighting, accompanied the Flat-heads in their 
 war excursions against the Black-feet. His 
 eminent bravery endeared him to the whole 
 tribe, and in all matters relating to warfare his 
 word was a law. The following anecdote, 
 which was related to me by several Indians^ will 
 at once show his steady courage and recklessness, 
 of danger. In the summer of 1812, at the 
 buffalo plains they fell in with a strong party of 
 the Black-feet, and a severe contest ensued. 
 M'Donald was to be seen in every direction, in 
 the hottest of the fire, cheering and animating his. 
 friends ; and they at length succeeded in driving . 
 the Black-feet to take shelter in a thick cluster, 
 of trees, from whence they kept up a constant 
 and galling fire on the Flat-heads, by which a 
 few were killed, and several wounded. In vain 
 he exerted all his influence to induce his friends 
 to storm the trees, and drive the enemy from 
 their cover. 
 
 Their mode of attack was extremely foolish. 
 
 A 
 
CHIVALRIC RASHNESS. 
 
 3'2S 
 
 nt at the 
 5 that in 
 Btely dis- 
 le weeks 
 
 I love of 
 in their 
 3et. His 
 he whole 
 rarfare his 
 anecdote, 
 dians; will 
 3cklessness 
 12, at the 
 ig party of 
 it ensued, 
 irection, in 
 [mating his. 
 in driving 
 lick cluster, 
 constant 
 ly which a 
 In vain 
 his friends 
 lemy from 
 
 bly foolish, 
 
 and productive of no benefit -, for each warrior 
 advanced opposite to the spot from whence the 
 Black-feet fired, and after discharging a random 
 shot into the group of trees, instantly galloped 
 away. M'Donald, vexed at this puerile method 
 of fighting, offered to take the lead himself to 
 dislodge the enemy ; but, with the exception of 
 the war-chief, they all refused to join him. He 
 the: efore resolved to try the effect of example, 
 and putting his horse into a smart trot, rode op- 
 posite to the plr ce from whence the chief fire of 
 the Black-feet proceeded: he then dismounted, 
 took a deliberate aim at the head of a fellow 
 which had just popped from behind a tree, and 
 let fly. The bullet entered the Black-foot*s 
 mouth, and he fell. A shower of balls instantly 
 whizzed about M*Donald and his horse ; but he, 
 undismayed, re-loaded, while his friends cried 
 out and besought him to retire. He covered 
 another in the same manner, who also fell, after 
 which he calmly remounted, and galloped to his 
 party uninjured. A prisoner, who was subse- 
 sequenty taken, declared that the only two killed 
 of those who had taken refuge among the trees, 
 were both shot in the head by the ** big white 
 chief," as they termed our friend. His friends 
 at Forts des Prairies repeatedly wrote to him 
 
 Y 2 
 
324, 
 
 NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 I I 
 
 that the Black-feet complained greatly of his 
 haying joined the Flat-heads, who had, by his 
 assistance and that of Michel, become powerful, 
 and that they vowed vengeance against them if 
 ever they fell in their way ; but M'Donald paid 
 no attention either to their warning or our en- 
 treaties. War was his glory, and " piping peace" 
 his aversion. Up to the period I quitted the 
 Columbia he escaped harmless ; but I regret to 
 state that a few years afterwards, one of the 
 enemy's balls brought him to the ground : half- 
 a-dozen savages instantly rushed on him, and 
 commenced hacking his skull with their toma- 
 haws : the scalping-knife was in the act of be- 
 ginning its dreadful operation, and in a moment 
 all would have been over, had not the war-chief, 
 accompanied by a few friends, dashed to his as- 
 sistance, killed three of the Black-feet, and 
 rescued their benefactor from impending death. 
 He subsequently recovered; but I understand 
 the wounds he then received have left evident 
 traces of their violence on his bold and manly 
 front. 
 
 About seven hundred miles from Fort George, 
 and ninety from Spokan House, there is an im- 
 mense fall in the Columbia, between' sixty and 
 seventy feet perpendicular, at low water, and 
 
THE CHAUDIERES. 
 
 525 
 
 r of hiB 
 , by his 
 owerful) 
 t them if 
 laid paid 
 
 our en- 
 ig peace" 
 itted the 
 regret to 
 e of the 
 nd: half- 
 hiiUf and 
 eir toma- 
 ict of be- 
 \ moment 
 wrar-chief, 
 to his as- 
 
 :eet, and 
 g death, 
 derstand 
 
 t evident 
 
 |nd manly 
 
 George, 
 lis an im- 
 |sixty and 
 
 iter, and 
 
 about forty'five in the spring and early part of 
 the summer, when the melting of the snow con- 
 tributes to swell the mighty torrent. The basin 
 at the foot of the cascade resembles a boiling 
 cauldron, in consequence of which the fall is 
 called "La Chaudi^re." A small tribe, called 
 " Les Chaudidres," reside at this place : their 
 village is situated on the north side, just below 
 the fall, where they remain the greater part of 
 the year. They take little beaver j but their 
 lands are well stocked with game and fish ; there 
 is also abundance of wild fruit, such as choke- 
 cherries, currants, small strawberries, with black 
 and blue berries. They, take vast quantities of 
 salmon, which they dry and preserve for use 
 during the winter and spring months. Cleanli- 
 ness cannot be ranked amongst their virtues. 
 Their habitations are filthy in the extreme, and 
 the surrounding atmosphere is impregnated with 
 the most noxious effluvia, produced by the pisca- 
 tory offals which lie scattered about their dwell- 
 ings. I visited their village in September, in 
 company with my friend McDonald, his wife, 
 some of her relations, and two of our own men. 
 They received us in a friendly manner, and 
 treated us to abundance of roast and boiled 
 salmon. A small branch of this tribe reside 
 
32C 
 
 ASTONISHING THE NATIVES. 
 
 in the interior, about a day and a half's march 
 to the northward. A family of them, consisting 
 of a father, mother, and several children, arrived 
 at the fulls the day before us. They had never 
 seen white men, and their astonishment was 
 extreme at the great contrast exhibited be- 
 tween the tall, raw-boned figure, and flowing 
 red hair of my friend, compared to the cropped 
 head, John-Bullish face, low, and somewhat cor- 
 pulent person of the author. The old woman 
 requested to see my arms uncovered j and 
 having gratified her, she begged to see my 
 breast. I accordingly opened my shirt, and she 
 at length became satisfied that the skin was all 
 white, of which she appeared previously to en- 
 tertain some doubts. Her curiosity was next 
 directed to what she looked upon as the superna- 
 tural colour of M*Donald*s hair, and expressed a 
 wish to have a close examination of it : he com- 
 plied, and having sat down, she commenced an 
 inquisitorial search about its radical termina- 
 tions, after certain animalculi which shall be 
 nameless. She appeared much disappointed at 
 not finding a solitary " ferlie," the absence of 
 which she attributed to the extraordinary colour 
 of his hair, which she said frightened them away. 
 Then turning to me, and observing mine was of 
 
INDIAN CHIEF. 
 
 3J27 
 
 's march 
 onsisting 
 , arrived 
 ad never 
 lent was 
 )ited be- 
 
 ilowing 
 5 cropped 
 (vhat cor- 
 i woman 
 ed ', and 
 
 see my 
 t, and she 
 1 was all 
 ily to en- 
 was next 
 
 superna- 
 :pressed a 
 
 he com- 
 enced an 
 
 termina- 
 
 shall be 
 ointed at 
 
 )sence of 
 ry colour 
 
 em away. 
 
 le was of 
 
 a darker hue, she asked if I would allow her to 
 take a *' look.*' I immediately consented ; but 
 her eyes and digits having for some time toiled 
 in vain, she appeared annoyed at her want of 
 success, and rose up quite vexed, declaring we 
 were altogecher " too clean " 
 
 We visiter a small tribe, consisting of not more 
 than fifteen familim, wh.^ occupied a few hunting 
 lodges about mid war betwe-'^n Spokan House 
 and the Chauditire falls : the' language is a dia- 
 lect of that spoken by the natives r ^ the above 
 places, but approaclii»g more nearl) to the Spo- 
 kan. Their immodiate lands consist of bepotjf^'l 
 open prairies, bounded by clear woods, and in- 
 terspersed with small rivulets and lakes. The 
 latter are visited i the autumnal months by 
 numbers of wild-geese and ducks, and their hills 
 are well stocked with grouse. They are an in- 
 offensive race, and received us with every de- 
 inonstrat'on of friendship. We remained a week 
 among ihc<ii, during which period we had ex- 
 cellent sport. The aquatic birds were large and 
 fat ; und the grouse much beyond ours in size ; 
 ;;ni so tame, that they seldom took wing until 
 we approached within a few yards of them. 
 
 The chief of this tribe is an extraordinary 
 being. The Indians allege that he belongs to 
 
328 
 
 ADOPTION AND EDUCATION. 
 
 the epicene gender. He wears a woman's dress, 
 overloaded with a profusion of beads, thimbles, 
 and small shells ; add to which, the upper part 
 of the face and the manner of wearing the hair 
 are quite feminine ; but these appearances are 
 more than counterbalanced by a rough beard, 
 and a masculine tone of voice, which would seem 
 to set his virility beyond dispute. He never 
 gambles, or associates with either sex, and he is 
 regarded with a certain portion of fear and awe 
 by both men and women, who look upon him 
 as something more than human. He has a calm 
 and rather stern countenance, and I never ob- 
 served any tendency towards a relaxation of his 
 risible muscles. He is usually attended by two 
 or three children, to whom he pays great atten- 
 tion. Their chief occupation is to catch ^his 
 horses, collect provisions, make fires, and cook 
 his meals. When they attain a proper age, he 
 gives them a portion, gets them married, and 
 dismisses them ; after which he selects from the 
 largest and poorest families a fresh set of juvenile 
 domestics: their parents make no opposition, 
 and are glad to get them so well provided for. 
 
 This chief possesses a large number of horses, 
 some of which are the finest in the country. 
 We purchased a few, and found him liberal in 
 
MORAL PHILOSOPHY. 
 
 329 
 
 l's dress, 
 himbles, 
 per part 
 the hair 
 nces are 
 b beard, 
 iild seem 
 e never 
 nd he is 
 and awe 
 pon him 
 is a calm 
 ever ob- 
 Dn of his 
 1 by two 
 !at atten- 
 ;atch ^his 
 ind cook 
 
 age, he 
 lied, and 
 Ifrom the 
 
 juvenile 
 
 losition, 
 
 d for. 
 
 If horses, 
 
 [country. 
 
 iberal in 
 
 his dealings. He is free from the canting hypo- 
 crisy so common among Indians ; and if he finds 
 any of his young attendants tell a lie, or pre- 
 varicate in the least, the offender is punished by 
 a flogging and sent home, after which no con- 
 sideration whatever would induce him to take 
 back the delinquent. 
 
 He seldom visited our fort ; but whenever we 
 called on him we were received with a degree of 
 courteous hospitality which I never experienced 
 elsewhere. He was communicative, and inqui- 
 sitive, and ridiculed the follies of the Indians in 
 the most philosophical manner. Of these he in- 
 veighed principally against gambling, and their 
 improvident thoughtlessness in neglecting to 
 provide during the summer and autumnal months 
 a sufficient quantity of dried salmon for the 
 spring, which is the season of scarcity ; by which 
 neglect they have been frequently reduced to 
 starvation. He had heard of McDonald's quar- 
 rel with the Indian, which he adduced as one of 
 the bad effects resulting from gambling, and 
 added, " had the Spokan been mad enough to 
 follow the foolish custom of your countrymen, 
 it is probable one of you would have been killed 
 about a foolish dispute arising out of a bad prac- 
 tice, which every wise man should avoid.'* 
 
330 
 
 AN INDIAN PHILOSOPHER. 
 
 'i 
 
 He inquired particularly about our form of 
 government, laws, customs, marriages, our ideas 
 of a future life, 8cc. Our answers proved gene- 
 rally satisfactory ; but the only two things he 
 could not reconcile to wisdom, was the law of 
 primogeniture and the custom of duelling : the 
 first, he said, was gross injustice ; and he thought 
 no one but a man bereft of his senses could be 
 guilty of the latter. Our knowledge of his 
 language was necessarily imperfect, owing to 
 which the attempts I made to explain to him 
 some of the abstruse doctrines of our religion were 
 rather bungling ; but he appeared much pleased 
 whenever he ascertained that he comprehended 
 what I wished to convey ; and, at the conclusion 
 of our discourse, said he would be glad to con- 
 verse with some of the wise men we call priests 
 on these matters, and more particularly on the 
 subject of a future state. 
 
 He is fond of tobacco ; and the Indians say 
 they often see him sitting late at night, enjoying 
 his calumet at the door of his tent, and observing 
 the various revolutions in the firmament. On all 
 subjects therefore connected with the changes of 
 weather his opinion is deemed oracular, and I 
 understand he is seldom or never mistaken in his 
 prognostications. 
 
HIS RESIDENCE. 
 
 331 
 
 )rm of 
 r ideas 
 i gene- 
 ngs he 
 law of 
 ig: the 
 ;hought 
 mid he 
 of his 
 ring to 
 to him 
 Dn were 
 pleased 
 ihended 
 iclusion 
 to con- 
 priests 
 on the 
 
 ms say 
 [njoying 
 (serving 
 On all 
 mges of 
 I, and I 
 in in his 
 
 Although clothed in the garments of a female, 
 I have hitherto classed this uncommon being 
 among the masculine portion of the human race ; 
 and from his muscular frame, bushy beard, and 
 strong decided tone of voice, I conceive myself 
 justified in so doing. I never saw him angry but 
 once, and that was occasioned by observing some 
 private whispering and tittering going on in his 
 presence, which he suspected had some allusion 
 to his doubtful gender. His countenance instantly 
 assumed a savage fierceness ; but he quickly 
 regained his composure on finding the supposed 
 offenders had changed their conduct. 
 
 His dwelling was covered with large deer- 
 skins, and was completely water-proof. The in- 
 terior was remarkably clean, and spread over 
 with mats. In one corner he had a stock of 
 dried provisions, stored in leather and mat bags, 
 which in periods of scarcity he shared liberally 
 among the tribe ; in fact he wanted nothing that 
 could add to his happiness or comfort, and pos- 
 sessed a degree of calm contentment uncommon 
 among savages, and which would put to the 
 blush much of the philosophical wisdom of civi- 
 lised man. 
 
 While preparing for an autumnal journey to 
 the sea, we learned that one of our free hunters. 
 
8S2 
 
 SINGULAR CHARACTER. 
 
 named Jacques Hoole, had been murdered by the 
 Black-feet. His too was a character hors du com- 
 mun. He was a native of France, and had been 
 a soldier. He began his military career in Scot- 
 land in 174>5, was slightly wounded and made 
 prisoner at Culloden : after being exchanged he 
 was sent to Canada, and was actively engaged 
 in the old American war. He was present in 
 the battle on Abraham's Plains, when the gallant 
 Wolfe lost his life, and was one of the men who 
 assisted in carrying the Marquis de Montcalm 
 into Quebec, after he had received his death - 
 wound. 
 
 The conquest of Canada induced him to quit 
 the army : he married and became a farmer. On 
 the revolutionary war breaking out, the gallant 
 veteran bade adieu to the plough, became a ser- 
 geant of militia, and for the second time stood 
 the siege of Quebec ; in a sortie from which 
 he received a wound in the knee, which caused 
 a slight lameness during the remainder of his 
 life. 
 
 On the termination of the war, misfortunes 
 came crowding on him. The republicans had 
 destroyed his farm j his w'je proved faithless^ and 
 his children disobedient. He therefore deter- 
 mined to proceed with some traders to the inte- 
 
by the 
 lu com' 
 d been 
 a Scot- 
 L made 
 iged he 
 ngaged 
 sent in 
 gallant 
 en who 
 )ntcalm 
 death- 
 
 to quit 
 
 ler. On 
 
 gallant 
 
 a ser- 
 
 [6 stood 
 
 which 
 
 caused 
 
 of his 
 
 SINGULAR CHARACTER. 
 
 333 
 
 rior of the Indian country. He would not 
 engage in the service of the Company, but pre- 
 ferred trapping beaver on his own account, 
 which he afterwards disposed of at the nearest 
 trading post. This extraordinary old man was 
 ninety-two years of age at the period of his death. 
 I saw him the year before, and he then possessed 
 much of the lightness and elasticity of youth, with 
 all the volatility of a Frenchman. His only lux- 
 ury was tobacco, of which he consumed an incre- 
 dible quantity. From his great age he was 
 called "P^re Hoole." The Canadians treated 
 him with much respect, and their common salu- 
 tation of " Bon jour, p^re,** was answered by 
 " Merci, Merci, monjils.^ His body was found 
 by the Flat-heads, close to a beaver dam : — a ball 
 had penetrated his temples, and the few white 
 hairs that remained on his aged head did not 
 prevent his inhuman butchers from stripping it 
 of the scalp. His clothes remained on him ; but 
 his horses, traps, and arms had been taken by the 
 murderers. 
 
 fortunes 
 ins had 
 [ess, and 
 deter- 
 Ihe inte- 
 
 END OF VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 IBOTbUN AND PALMCni PRINTKnS, SAVOY STREET, STRAND.