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Sib Charles Tuppep, Bart., G.C.M.9. 
 {Tli^h Commissioner ;f or Canada'), 
 
ACEOSS 
 
 li ] 
 
 THE CANADIAN PEAIEIES 
 
 A TWO MONTHS' HOLIDAY IN THE DOMINION 
 
 BY 
 
 J. G, COLMER, C.M.G. 
 
 PRICE ONE SHILLING 
 
 The EUROPEAN MAIL, Ltd. 
 
 IMPERIAL BUILDINGS, LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON 
 
C.2 
 
 -6 
 
 rillNTED BT 
 
 SPOTTBWOODB AND CO., NEW-3TIU5KT SQUAUB 
 
 LONDOK 
 
INTEODUCTION. 
 
 -*«*• 
 
 The letters which are collected in this little volume 
 were written during a two months' visit to Canada in the 
 autumn of 1894. They are reprinted by permission of the 
 proprietors of The Colonies and India, in which journal 
 they first appeared. It has been thought that they might 
 be interesting, not only to persons who are acquainted 
 with the districts in which I travelled, but to those who 
 take an interest in the progress of the country. 
 
 Of course, much of what wa? written of 1894 applies 
 equally to 1895 ; but the condition of things now is even 
 brighter and more prosperous than it was then, in view of 
 the revival of trade, and of the magnificent harvest with 
 which Canada has been favoured this year. The letters, 
 however, even in their collected form, merely contain the 
 impressions of a traveller, and are not in any way intended 
 to be a " book " in the usual sense of the term. There are, 
 no doubt, many matters which I have omitted, deserving of 
 attention, while others that are referred to deserve more 
 extended treatment than they have received. 
 
 I should like to have devoted much more space to the 
 development of steam communication, and to the work of 
 the various steamship companies whose vessel?, plying 
 between British ports and Canada, liave done so much to 
 promote the develfioment of the country and its commerce. 
 The same remark applies to the railways and canals of 
 Canada, of which only passing mention has been made. 
 The growth of the railways in the Dominion in the last 
 twenty years has, for instance, been marvellous, and their 
 
6 
 
 effect upon inter-provincial development can hardly be 
 realised, much less over-estimated. There is also the 
 excellent banking system, which has done so much to 
 preserve the country from the dangers of the financial 
 and commercial depression that has been passing over the 
 world since 1890. Apart from their ordinary commercial 
 business, the growth of the deposits in the banks, and par- 
 ticularly the expansion of the deposits in the Post Office 
 and Government Savings Banks, form a valuable object- 
 lesson in themselves of the wonderful improvement in 
 the social condition of Canada since Confederation. 
 
 Then, again, there is the old Hudson Bay Company, 
 which has played so important a part in the history of 
 Canada for over 200 years. It seems only yesterday that 
 it handed over to Canada the administration of a terri- 
 tory — now Manitoba and the North-West Territories — 
 almost as large as Europe. So well did its officers ad- 
 minister it that the task of dealing with the Indians subse- 
 quently, and of preparing the way for settlement, was a 
 comparatively easy one, notwithstanding the difficulties 
 that occurred in 1870 and 1885, owing to the eccentricities 
 and vanity of some of the half-breeds. The company still 
 occupies a prominent position in the country as a trading 
 concern. Its fur trade in the Far North remains unimpaired ; 
 and it has, besides, a large stake in the great North- 
 West, in the shape of the many millions of acres of land 
 of which it is the owner. 
 
 I might also, perhaps, have laid greater stress upon the 
 scenic attractions of Canada, and upon its charms for the 
 sportsman. No good purpose, however, will be served 
 by attempting to make up in an introduction for the 
 deficiencies of the letters, especially in regard to matters 
 that are somewhat outside their scope. I can only hope 
 that they may be of some interest to those persons into 
 whose hands they may fall. 
 
 London : November 1895. 
 
^"^ 
 
ff. ^■^■■^ I I I I f ^^ ^J^ti;< I J M^»l 
 
ACROSS THE CANADIAN PRAIRIES. 
 
 I. 
 
 The Voyage. 
 
 So much has been written from time to time about the 
 pleasures, and about the trials to some people, of the voyage 
 across the Atlantic, that there seems little that is new to be said 
 upon the subject. The embarkation at Liverpool, the partings 
 of friends, the starting of the big ship, the process of settling 
 down in one's cabin, and the preparations for possible disagree- 
 ments with the Atlantic rollers, have frequently been dilated 
 upon ; and it is the same story over and over again. After one 
 or two trips the novelty of these things is apt to wear off, and 
 they are taken as matters of course ; but still there is much to 
 interest the observant mind always. Most of the passengers, 
 or many of them, are strangers to one another, and for the first 
 few days much speculation takes place as to who's who, the 
 names of the people, destinations, business, and so on ; and it 
 is sometimes amusing to hear the stories that are circulated by 
 gossips — individuals always to be found on every ship. 
 
 Oar vessel was the good ship Parisian, of the Allan Line — a 
 favourite boat with Canadian passengers, and we cast off from 
 the Alexandra Dock on a sunny afternoon in August ; but, owing 
 to the tide or some other cause, we did not leave the Mersey 
 until late at night. That meant curtailing our stay at Moville, 
 the delightful little village on Loch Foyle, off which the 
 Canadian mail steamers generally wait for the mails to be 
 brought down on a tug from the famous city of Derry. The 
 steamer usually stays there for five or six hours, giving the 
 passengers an opportunity to land, to drive on a jaunting car 
 
 /ti 
 
10 
 
 to Green Castle, or wherever their fancy leads thorn, to buy 
 shamrocks and Irish soil, blackthorns, and " potheen " — a vile 
 concoction of various kinds of abomination purchased on the 
 assurance that it is genuine "crathur" manufactured at home, 
 guaranteed not to have paid duty. Xs the Faritiian only reached 
 Moville just before the arrival of the mails, these pleasures 
 were not available to her passengers, and all they could do was 
 to buy "shillelaghs," at prices much above their value, and to 
 listen to the airs of "ould Ireland," as played by an old fiddler 
 who came on board. 
 
 Soon after we made our final start from Ireland, passengers, 
 on the deck, became less numerous than before, and there were 
 many vacan chairs at the tables. The weather was not 
 especially bau, but there was evidently more motion going on 
 than was comfortable to some of our friends, and they showed 
 that they did not appreciate it by staying in their cabins — some 
 of them lamenting loudly. 
 
 But these disagreements soon came to an end, and the ship's 
 company was as lively and friendly as is usually the case after 
 two or three days out. Such amusements as are possible 
 on board, like quoita and shuffleboard, became popular, and 
 pools on the run of the ship were of daily occurrence. Then, 
 two or three days before entering the St. Lawrence, preparations 
 began for the concert always held in aid of the Liverpool Sea- 
 men's Orphanage, and its organisation and the special programme 
 to be arranged when there are any artists on board, entailed a 
 good deal of work upon the willing few who undertook 
 the responsibility. Needless to say, the concert was a great 
 success — they always are — and a good round sum was realised 
 for the benefit of the orphans. On the night of our arrival at 
 Rimouski — a village on the River St. Lawrence, about 180 miles 
 from Quebec, where the mails are landed and conveyed to all 
 parts of Canada by special trains — a dance was arranged, with 
 the consent of the captain, and the young people on board 
 enjoyed themselves to their hearts' content. 
 
 One of the great advantages of the St. Lawrence route is 
 the fact that the last three days of the voyage is in the com- 
 paratively smooth waters of the gulf and river of that name. 
 The scenery along the shores, when they can be seen, for it 
 must be remembered that both the Gulf and River are of 
 magnificent proportions, is most picturesque. Mountains and 
 
 I 
 
11 
 
 hills, with their coverings of pine and other timber, aeem to 
 rise almost from the water's edge, and here and there the 
 pretty French-Canadian villages form <j^uite a feature of the 
 landscape. 
 
 At noon the day after leaving Rimouski we sighted grand 
 old Quebec — the Gibraltar of Canada. Nothing can be finer 
 than the first sight of its ramparts and spires on a clear day, 
 and those who had never been to Canada before were charmed 
 with the view, while those of us who knew it before were glad 
 to see it again. Some of us landed at Quebec, and made our 
 way up the winding, narrow streets and stairways to the top of 
 the hill to see the magnificent new hotel — the Chateau Frontenao 
 — in the erection of which the Canadian Pacific Railway Company 
 have been largely instrumental. It occupies a splendid site at the 
 northern end of the Dufterin Terrace, and gorgeous views are 
 obtained from its windows, of the river and mountain scenery 
 of the famous St. Lawrence. The destination of our good ship 
 was Montreal, 180 miles still further up the river, and from 
 the Terrace, an hour or so after we left the wharf, we saw her 
 on the move again for the commercial metropolis of Canada. 
 
 Although 1 have written so far of the saloon passengers on 
 the Parisian^ and can testify as to the efficiency of the means 
 taken to ensure their convenience and comfort, I am able also 
 to offer similar testimony with regard to the second and third 
 class passengers. The accommodation provided for them is 
 good, considering all the circumstances, and they were well 
 looked after by the captain and the officers of the ship. 
 
 II. 
 
 Quebec and the Lake St. John District. 
 
 A day or two can be passed very pleasantly in Quebec, and the 
 surrounding district. There is scarcely a foot which is not 
 historic ground, and is not consecrated by well-established fact 
 or tradition to the memory of deeds of heroism, of instances 
 of undying piety and faith, from the scene of Champlain'a 
 
12 
 
 landing in the lower town, to found his infant colony, to the 
 world-renowned Plains of Abraham above, where Wolfe died to 
 gain, and Montcalm shed his blood in a vain endeavour to save, 
 the half of a continent. The ordinary tourist will find his stay 
 in the Gibraltar of America far too brief to enable him to *' take 
 in "all the attractions of the city and its environs, its many historic 
 localities, its churches and convents, its University, with its 
 valuable collection of old paintings, and well-equipped library 
 and museum, and the many beautiful drives and excursions by 
 rail and steamboat to the Falls of Montmorency, Lorette, La 
 Bonne Ste. Anne, Levis, New Liverpool, St. Joseph, and the 
 Island of Orleans. 
 
 Quebec stands at the natural head of ocean navigation, 
 but, thanks to the energy and enterprise of the Montrealers, 
 assisted as they have been by the Government, a channel with 
 27^ feet of water has been made to that city, and the largest 
 ocean-going vessels can now moor alongside the streets of 
 Montreal. This has led Lo much of tho Atlantic trade going 
 beyond Quebec ; but all the facilities for an immense business 
 exist, and there is splendid railway accommodation for distri- 
 bution purposes. There are immense docks, with abundant 
 sidings, and railway lines, modern cranes, warehouses, and 
 a dry dock ; and it is disappointing to see that all these 
 advantages remain dormant and unutilised. Quebeckers are, 
 however, expecting great things from the new fast service, the 
 terminus of which will, they hope, be their own city. If this 
 is brought about, it will do much to revive the fallen commercial 
 glories of the place. 
 
 Visitors to Quebec should not depart without making the trip 
 down the Saguenay. Formerly to do this it was necessary to take 
 the steamer to Ohicoutimi, and return the same way. By the 
 construction of the Lake St. John Railway and its extensions it 
 is now possible to go by railway from Quebec to Chicoutimi 
 (calling at Roberval), taking the steamer at that place for Quebec 
 — a very pleasant and entertaining round trip. For a part of the 
 way the line to Roberval runs through a fairly settled country, 
 dotted witu the neat homesteads of the French-Canadians, who 
 appear to be a thriving, contented, and happy community. 
 Village after village is passed ; and then the track commences 
 to ascend the Laurentian range of mountains, the Canadian 
 Adirondacks, through picturesque scenery, hilly and wooded, 
 
■m 
 
 mm 
 
 13 
 
 with any number of torrents and streams and lakes, all said to 
 swarm with fish. In fact, it is a sportsman's Paradise. Fish- 
 ing and sporting clubs havo their club-houses at various noted 
 places, and many a happy week is spent there by the fagged 
 citizens of Quebec, Montrerl, and even of American cities. 
 Just before reaching Ghambord Junction, the changing place 
 for Roberval, the country opens out again, patches of cultiva- 
 tion are seen, and the grand Lake of St. John comes into 
 view. Roberval is only a short distance away, and its 
 most comfortable summer hotel is largely patronised 
 from Jane to October. It occupies a splendid position 
 on the shores of the lake, with grand views of the 
 lake and of the surrounding country. Very pleasant excur- 
 sions may be made from Roberval, especially for those who 
 want to angle for the lively Ounaniche — a kind of land-locked 
 salmon, a fish which gives great sport. There are also many 
 drives and rides, one of the most delightful being that to 
 the Falls of the Ouiatchouan, the outlet of Lake Bouchette. 
 The waters leap over a rocky precipice to near the level of the 
 lake, not far from its south-western angle. The falls are 230 
 feet in height, and form a grand picture, the water being lashed 
 into foam against the projecting rocks. North of Roberval, 
 along the main roads, there is a good deal of settlement, and 
 the country appears to be developing. Barley, oats, and hay 
 seem to be the leading crops, but a large number of cattle are 
 raised, and the dairy industry is extending — cheese factories 
 and creameries being seen along the highways here and there. 
 There is a quaintness about these villages and the people which 
 requires to bo seen to be appreciated. 
 
 All along the railway, from Roberval to Chicoutimi, the 
 country is of the same character. About four miles before 
 reaching the town, the first view of the River of Death, as 
 Bayard Taylor calls the Saguenay, is obtained, and it lies 
 300 feet below the line. Three miles further on, the train 
 crosses a bridge 60 feet high, over a picturesque ravine, 
 through which the Chicoutimi River rushes on its way to join 
 the Saguenay. The trip down the river to Tadousac— C8 miles 
 — is not easy to describe. It is difficult to find words to express 
 in any adequate way the grandeur of the scene. Professor 
 Roberts says : — "The Saguenay can hardly be called a river. 
 It is rather a stupendous chasm, from one to two and a-half 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 I' 
 
 I 
 
 -. 
 
 
14 
 
 xnilea in width, doubtless of earthquake origin, cleft for 65 miles 
 through the high Laurentian plateau. Its walls are an almost 
 unbroken line of naked cliffs of syenite and gneiss. Its depth 
 is many hundred feet greater than that of the St. Lawrence ; 
 indeed, if the St. Lawrence were drained dry, all the fleets of 
 the world might float in the abyss of the Saguenay, and yet 
 find anchorage in only a few places." The Indian name of the 
 river is Pitchitonichez, but as to how it is pronounced the reader 
 must form his own conclusion. Everybody has heard of Ha ! 
 Ha ! Bay, and Capes Trinity and Eternity. From Cape Eter- 
 nity to Tadousac the scenery is of the most sublime grandeur. 
 The river is just sufliciently winding and indented with bays to 
 cause a new panorama of splendour to open out as each immense 
 cape is rounded. From Tadousac to Quebec we are on the 
 familiar St. Lawrence again. 
 
 iir. 
 
 li I 
 
 Quebec to Montreal. 
 
 The journey from Quebec to Montreal may be made by three 
 different routes :— (1) By the Canadian Pacific Railway along 
 the north shore of the St. Lawrence ; (2) by the Grand Trunk 
 Railway on the other side of the river ; and (3) by the very fine 
 saloon boats passing between the two cities. Saloon passengers 
 on the ocean liners also have the privilege of going up in them 
 to Montreal. 
 
 There is very little difference in the journey by the two rail- 
 ways. The distance is much the same, and there is little 
 diff'erence in the scenery on the two sides of the river, but tlie 
 country on the south shore is perhaps the older settled part of 
 the Province. Everywhere may be seen the long narrow 
 farms of the inhabitants, and here and there the villages, 
 in which the churches are always conspicuous objects. 
 The style of farming adopted by tho French-Canadians is not of 
 a very high class, but immense improvement has been witnessed 
 in the last few years. This result is largely attributable to the 
 
15 
 
 ^263, 
 
 efforts of the Agricultural Departmert, and to the formation of 
 agricultural societies and clubs, to which the clergy have given 
 every encouragement. The dairying industry has made rapid 
 strides in the last decade, and cheese factories and creameries 
 are now to be found in every part of the Province. In fact, the 
 export of agricultural produce is now the most important part 
 of the trade of Quebec, and is still growing. Not only butter 
 and cheese, but pork, bacon, eggs, and hay, are now sent away 
 in large quantities, and the cattle shipments have also expanded. 
 The principal town along the north shore is Three Rivers, at 
 the mouth of the River St. Maurice, the head of the tide- 
 way of the St. Lawrence. It has some manufactures, is the 
 headquarters of an important lumbering business, and its 
 inhabitants number about 0,000. By the Grand Trunk line 
 there is nothing special to note either in the way of scenery or 
 of towns, but there are innumerable villages, and the railway 
 passes through a part of the Eastern townships — the English- 
 speaking part of the Province. Gradually, however, the 
 English settlers are removing from the district, and their places 
 are being taken by French-Canadians. The journey by river is 
 perhaps more comfortable than the others, as the boats are 
 good both in their commissariat and in their accommodation, 
 but as they travel by night they do not afford much opportunity 
 of viewing the scenery excepting in the long summer days, 
 when the evening goes far into the night and the morning sun 
 rises early. By the ocean steamers the trip is made chiefly in 
 the daylight, and is therefore very enjoyable. It is not so 
 very long ago that the river between Quebec and Montreal was 
 limited to vessels of 11-feet draught, but, owing to the enter- 
 prise of Montreal, aided by the Provincial and Dominion 
 Governments, as mentioned in a former letter, the largest 
 steamers can now moor alongside the five miles of wharves in 
 that city. 
 
 Montreal is the commercial metropolis of Canada, and boasts 
 of a population of 250,000. The inhabitants consist of French 
 and English-speaking Canadians in about equal proportions, but 
 the trade is largely in the hands of the latter. As a city, it has 
 made wonderful strides in the last ten years. It is not long 
 ago since it seemed to be a typical colonial city, with fine 
 buildings alongside very inferior ones, and indifferent roads 
 and " side- walks." But things have changed rapidly, and it now 
 
16 
 
 has all the solidity and stability of a large English town. In 
 fact, it may safely be said that there is no town in the United 
 Kingdom, with double its population, that has so many fine 
 buildings, residential and commercial ; and its electric tramway 
 ystem is most convenient in every way. Then, again, the 
 roads are good, although the tram lines rather interfere with 
 the other traffic, and the side-walks are very much better than 
 they used to be. Altogether, Montreal has a very prosperous 
 look, and no wonder its citizens are proud of it, although they 
 have had to pay for the improvements to which we have 
 referred. TLjre are any number of fine churches of various 
 denominations in the city — it has, indeed, been called the city of 
 churches. If we remember rightly, it was Mark Twain who 
 said that one could not throw a brick in Montreal without 
 hitting a church window. Let us hope that its worthy citizens 
 profit by their surroundings in this respect. Everyone has 
 heard of the Montreal educational institutions, which are both 
 numerous and of high class — the McGill University having a 
 world-wide reputation. There are several hospitals, among them 
 being the General Hospital, and the Victoria Jubilee Hospital, 
 the latter erected and endowed by the generosity of Lord Mount- 
 stephen and Sir Donald Smith. 
 
 The site of Montreal is a beautiful one in every way. It 
 fronts the River St. Lawrence, and the leading streets range in 
 terraces up the gentle slope which starts from the river-side, 
 and culminates in what is known as the "Mountain." This 
 elevation is about 800 feet high, and houses are to be found 
 probably about half-way up. The upper part of the Mountain 
 is covered with trees of various kinds, and in summsr is a 
 beautiful sight ; but it is in the autumn that it is at its best, 
 as the diff'erent colours of the foliage form a picturesque back- 
 ground to the city, which must be seen to be realised. The 
 views from the top of the Mountain are both extensive and 
 grand, and hardly a visitor goes to Montreal without spending 
 some hours there. 
 
jr 
 
 IV. 
 
 [Montreal to Ottawa. 
 
 It 
 
 After leaving Montreal it is usual to pay a visit to Ottawa, 
 the political capital of the Dominion, which lies on the main 
 line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, between Quebec and 
 Vancouver. The journey only takes from three to four hoiirs, 
 and the line passes through a country which has made con- 
 siderable progress in the last few years. Comfortable-looking 
 farms are seen for most of the way, and everywhere will be 
 found evidences of new clearings, and the extension of land 
 under cultivation. In addition to agriculture, the lumber 
 industry and phosphate and iron mining are also carried on, 
 and altogether the district is one which is sure to rapidly 
 expand. 
 
 Ottawa occupies a lovely position on the banks of the river 
 of that name. The river, which is 100 feet or more below the 
 level of the city, is wide and picturesque, and the falls of 
 the Chaudiere add considerably to its attractions. The Par- 
 liament buildings are generally recognised by visitors to 
 Ottawa as a splendid pile. The Library is one of the finest 
 on the continent, but measures will probably soon have to be 
 taken to increase the accommodation. Much difficulty is 
 experienced in finding room for the books of all kinds, from 
 Statutes and Blue Books down to the lightest literature, which 
 continue to pour in ; and although the building is picturesque 
 and beautiful from an architectural point of view, its circular 
 plan of construction does not readily admit of its expansion. 
 The view from the grounds of the Parliament buildings is very 
 extensive and pretty, especially in the autumn, when the foliage 
 assumes the glorious colours peculiar to a northern climate. 
 
 The Parliament buildings — that is, the Smate and the 
 House of Commons, and the offices in conr on with their 
 administration — are flanked by blocks on the east and west, 
 in which are to be found the offices of the difierent departments 
 of State. The intermediate space is laid out as ornamental 
 grounds, in which legislators and their friends not only take 
 their daily constitutionals, but sometimes indulge in cricket and 
 
 B 
 
18 
 
 other games of that sort. Owing to the increase in the depart- 
 mental work, it was found necessary a few years ago to provide 
 additional accommodation, and the h.andsome building known 
 as the Langevin Block was erected on Wellington Street, facing 
 the Parliament buildings. It was named after Sir Hector 
 Langevin, who was at the time Minister of Public Works. 
 
 There are other public buildings in the city, but probably the 
 most important is that known as the Geological Museum, the 
 administration of which is connected with the Geological 
 Survey Department, of which Dr. Selwyn is Director, and the 
 well-known Dr. G. M. Dawson, the Assistant-Director. "'^ This 
 building contains treasures of untold value, illustrative of the 
 mineral and arboricultural wealth of the Dominion, and of the 
 tlora and fauna of the country. There is also a large and 
 valuable collection of fossils, which could not be replaced, and 
 the same remark applies to many other contents of the museum. 
 It is rather a pity, therefore, that a more suitable building has 
 not been provided. Their present home was intended as an 
 hotel, and is certainly not well adapted for the purpose to 
 which it is now applied, especially having regard to the necessity 
 of safeguarding the collections. No doubt, however, this matter 
 will be remedied in the course of time. 
 
 The city of Ottawa, although it is only the fourth or fifth in 
 point of population, has expanded more rapidly than any other 
 place in Canada in the last decade. The business streets are 
 wide, and the shops and buildings worthy of the capital, 
 but there is considerable room for improvement in the road- 
 ways, the rugged and uneven character of which can best be 
 appreciated during a cab ride from the railway station to the 
 hotels. It must be admitted, however, that the electric tramcar 
 service is admirable — probably one of the best-equipped and 
 administered in the Dominion. The residential part of the 
 city is remarkable for the number and beauty of its buildings, 
 and the trees which have been planted along most of the 
 streets certainly add to their picturesque appearance. 
 
 The principal industry of Ottawa, after legislation, and perhaps 
 litigation, is die lumber business, and, go where you will, 
 especially near the rivers and railways, immense piles of sawn 
 deals meet the eye, and the quantity of sawdust in the river 
 
 * Dr. Selwyn has retired from the service since this was written, and has been 
 Buooeeded by Dr. G. M. Dawson, C.M.G., F.B.S., &c. 
 
 in 
 
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 work. The power is chiefly provided by the Chaudiero Falls, 
 before mentioned, and the logs are floated down from the 
 waters of the Upper Ottawa. Rafts of logs are also sent from 
 the river down to Montreal and Quebec, and they are conveyed 
 from the uppor to the lower level by means of an artificial slide 
 which has been constructed. The logs are made up into small 
 rafts, called cribs, and to come down the slide on one of them 
 is an experience not likely soon to be ' ^'gotten, and beats the 
 excitement and exhilaration of tobogganing all to pieces. In 
 addition to lumber, large quantities of matches and match 
 splints are made in Ottawa, and at Hull, on the other side of the 
 river, and the sawdust and waste lumber is also utilised for 
 making various kinds of wooden ware, the material first being 
 made into pulp and then compressed and dried. Paper-making 
 from pulp is also likely to be an important industry in the 
 future, and there are many other kinds of manufactures which 
 are gradually developing. 
 
 Rideau Hall, the residence of the Governor-General, is 
 situated about a mile and a half from Ottawa, and the grounds 
 run down to the Rideau River, which empties itself into the 
 Ottawa. It is an old-fashioned house, which has been added 
 to from time to time, and is not calculated to impress the 
 visitor. Probably, at some time or another, a new and fitting 
 residence for the Governor-General will be erected, but economy 
 is the order of the day in Canada at the present time, as well as 
 in most other countries, and the matter is not immediately to 
 the front. Earnscliffe, formerly the residence of Sir John 
 Macdonald, and from which the Baroness Macdonald takes her 
 title, is not far from Rideau Hall, and occupies a pretty 
 position on the cliflfs overlooking the river. It is at present 
 occupied by Major-Gen. Herbert, who commands the Canadian 
 Militia.* 
 
 Ottawa is a delightful centre, in which the tourist can pass 
 several weeks very happily. Excursions may be made into the 
 back country, where there is any quantity of shooting and 
 fishing, and camping can be enjoyed in all its glory. Then, 
 again, the upper Ottawa River itself is a magnificent stream, 
 often half a mile or more wide, and the scenery along its banks 
 
 * General Herbert has since been eucceeded in the coounand of the Canadian 
 Militia by Major-General Gascoigne, 
 
 b2 
 
so 
 
 is perfect in its way — much grander and more romantic and 
 beautiful than we are accustomed to in Great Brv' in. It 
 would be difficult to imagine anything more delightful than 
 a canoe trip up this grand river, .rith the attendant hunting, 
 shooting, and camping, and it is not surprising, therefore, 
 that it is the holiday ground of the people of Ottawa and its 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 V. 
 
 Ottawa to Fort WiLLiAAr. 
 
 I i 
 
 I 
 
 I ■; 
 
 I 1 
 
 Leaving Ottawa for the West, it is possible to travel by two 
 routes, either direct by the main line of the Canadian Pacific 
 Bailway through the Ottawa Valley, or by the lino of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, or that of the Grand Trunk Railway, 
 vid Toronto and Western Ontario. If the latter is adopted, the 
 main line route may be reached again by way of the Grand 
 Trunk Railway and North Bay. On our outward journey, how- 
 ever, we took the first of the two routes, branching off on our 
 return at North Bay, and visiting Toronto and other places in 
 what is known as the " Garden of Canada." 
 
 The line from Ottawa goes by way of Carleton Junction and 
 Renfrew, and enters the Ottawa Valley at the latter place. 
 From Renfrew to Mattawa, a distance of 120 miles, it is con- 
 tinually in view of the Ottawa River. As already mentioned in 
 previous letters, the scenery in this district is exceedingly 
 picturesque. The river is broad and its banks are well 
 timbered, and in many places it is below the level of the 
 surrounding country. In the autumn time, when the leaves are 
 beginning to change their colours, the sight is exceedingly 
 beautiful. The railway crosses many streams, along the banks 
 of which may be found perfect paradises for the angler and 
 sportsman. Between Ottawa and Pembroke, a distance of 124 
 miles, the country is fairly well settled with British and other 
 European immigrants, and satisfactory progress is apparently 
 being made, judging from the appearance of the farms, the 
 excellent quality of the cattle everywhere to be seen, and the 
 
21 
 
 additional clearing that is annually taking place. Westward of 
 Pembroke the country is not thickly inhabited ; indeed, houses 
 are few and far between, although in the near future the 
 attractions of the country, when the emigration movement 
 revives, will doubtless lead to a further accession of population. 
 From Mattawa to Sudbury the scenery is of the same 
 character as that already described, a well-timbered, rocky 
 country, with valleys here and there capable of cultivation, and 
 watered by rushing streams, in which the maskinonge, trout, 
 bass and other hsh abound. On this stretch of line the principal 
 place is North Bay, the junction with the Grand Trunk Rail- 
 way already referred to ; and Sudbury has sprung into import- 
 ance in recent years, not only on account of the nickel deposits 
 in the neighbourhood, said to be the most extensive in the 
 world, but from its position as the junction with the Minneapolis, 
 St. Paul, and Sault Ste. Marie Railway, the line running 
 from Sudbury through Algoma along the shores of Lake Huron 
 to Sault Ste. Marie, over which it is conveyed by a, bridge to 
 the United States. 
 
 The ride from Sudbury to Heron Bay, where the first sight 
 of the magnificent Lake Superior is obtained, is not particularly 
 inviting. The line traverses a more or less wild region, similar 
 in character to that already described, but here and there very 
 interesting and picturesque views are obtained. From Heron 
 Bay the railway skirts the shores of Lake Superior to Fort 
 William, a distance of nearly 200 miles. Not only are the 
 views of the lake that are obtained singularly grand and inte- 
 resting, but the scenery inland along the line of the railway 
 merits a similar observation. No one who has not travelled 
 over this piece of road can appreciate the immense difficulties 
 that were encountered by the engineers in building it, and it 
 quite justifies the remark that has been made, that the 
 Canadians, m determining on the building of the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway, must not only be credited with enterprise, 
 but with considerable audacity. The railway curls about in 
 some places almost like a corkscrew, and viaducts, tunnels, 
 bridges, and cuttings occur rapidly one after the other along 
 nearly the whole route. 
 
 The country through which the railway passes, between 
 Ottawa and Fort William, has not yet yielded much return to 
 mankind, for the simple reason that its wealth is not yet either 
 
 j 
 
 i ; 
 
22 
 
 ' 1 1 
 
 llM 
 
 approciated or probably known. For a portion of the way, 
 however, agriculture is gradually developing, and in favourable 
 places indications of the lumber industry may be seen in 
 Uoatinj,' logs and in occasional sawmills. The principal towns 
 are Almonte, with a population of 3,500, a manufacturing 
 centre, and the sito of largo woollen mills. Pakenham (popu- 
 lation, 2,200) and Arnprior (population, 3,500) are also manu- 
 facturing centres. Then there is Pembroke, with a population 
 of nearly 5,000, the most important town between Ottawa and 
 Fort William, the centre of the lumbering trade on the 
 Upper Ottawa. Mattawa, with a population rather under 2,000, 
 is an old Hudson Bay trading post, and is a place from 
 virhich sporting expeditions are arranged, facilities being found 
 there for the supply of all materials and the necessary guides. 
 Sudbury has already been referred to, but there are practically 
 110 further places of importance except those which obtain their 
 populations by being railway divisional points, until Nepigon 
 is reached. This is another favourite centre for sportsmen, 
 especially those who seek the speckled trout, which is found in 
 great abundance, and in all sizes, both in the Nepigon Lake 
 and in the rivers which run out of it. Port Arthur, with a 
 population of 3,000, was formerly a morn important place than 
 it is now, but, the Canadian Pacific Railway having lent its 
 influence to Fort William, another town on the lake 5 miles 
 away, its position has been somewhat eclipsed. It is likely, 
 however, to develope in the future more than it has hitherto 
 done, as the iron mines in the neighbourhood are exploited. 
 Fort William derives its importance from the fact that it is the 
 port of arrival and departure of the magnificent steamships of 
 the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, which ply to and from 
 Owen Sound. It is also noted for its immense elevators, where 
 the grain from the wheat fields of the West is stored prior to 
 its sliipment to the Eastern markets. 
 
23 
 
 VI. 
 
 FoKT William to Winnipeg . 
 
 The journey from Fort William to Winnipeg la not particu- 
 larly interesting, except perhaps to the sportsman and geologist. 
 The country is of a rocky formation, covered very generally 
 with a growth of small trees, and there are large areas of marsh 
 and boggy lanii. Hero and there little clearings may be seen, 
 and occasionally smail stretches of land suitable for cultivation ; 
 but from Fort William to Rat Portage— a distance of nearly 
 300 miles — there is practically no settlement at all, and the only 
 people to be seen are those connected with the railwr.y, occa- 
 sional trappers and hunters, and a few sportsmen and Indians. 
 At places the scenery is grand and picture8(iue, and lakes and 
 streams abound ; but upon the whole the views from the train 
 arc rather depressing than exhilarating, from the fact that 
 most of the timber near the line has been burnt, and mile after 
 mile of bare grey poles greet the eye. A little relief is of course 
 found in the brilliant green of the undergrowth in the early 
 part of the year, and in the varied colouring of the autumn 
 foliage. 
 
 It is a problem, which only the future can decide, as to the 
 use that is likely to be made of this part of Canada. There 
 does not seem to be much probability of its being available for 
 agriculture, although it is not fair to form any decided opinion 
 from what can be seen near the line. It is believed, how- 
 ever, that it will be found to be rich in mineral wealth of 
 various kinds. In the neighbourhood of Fort William and 
 1 "t Arthur silver and iron have been found in considerable 
 quantities, and the impression prevails that other deposits 
 may be discovered as the country is explored and examined. 
 It is certafn also that gold and silver in paying quantities exist 
 around the Lake of the Woods, but the neighbourhood is more 
 or less inaccessible at present, and although some mines are 
 being worked, the industry cannot be said to have attained 
 extensive dimensions up to the present. 
 
 The district conterminous to the Lake of the Woods will 
 probably become an important industrial centre. There is an 
 abundance of water-power there, and it is largely utilised for 
 
Il I 
 
 M 
 
 !.: 
 
 I i I 
 
 I 
 
 I I 
 
 the working of the numerous aawmills which are in operation. 
 In fact, tlie timber trade is a very extensive one, employing 
 large number^) of hands, and it is not too much to say that 
 the population of the district is in the neighbourhood 
 of 5,000. There is also a vci'y largo flour mill at Keewatin, a 
 short distance from Rat Portage, which turns out an immense 
 number of barrels of flour daily. The Lake of the Woods is 
 a favourite summer resort for the Winnipeggers, who go 
 there in hundreds in August and September. The scenery on 
 the lake is varied and picturesque, and summer cottages can 
 be seen on most of the islands, while those who do not posses 
 residences are accustomed to camp out. The hotel accommo- 
 dation is not, of course, sufficient to provide for the large 
 accession of visitors which takes place at the time mentioned. 
 
 A tourist cannot fail to recall the dili'erence that exists in the 
 travelling facilities at the present time compared with those in 
 1870, when Colonel Wolseley (as he was then) conducted *he 
 Riel Expedition from Port Arthur to Winnipeg, the journey 
 occupying three months. Traces of the expeditior. can still be 
 seen in the shape of the encampments and the remaino of some 
 of the boats. The district used to be a rich hunting-ground 
 for the trappei'S and Indians, wild animals having formerly been 
 very numerous. The opening up of the country, however, by 
 the railway, has either driven the animals farther away, or 
 they have become scarcer as the result of the continual war 
 waged against them, and it is not so valuable an appanage of 
 the Hudson Bay Company as it was before being opened up by 
 railway communication. 
 
 About CO or 70 miles from Winnipeg, the forest gradually 
 becomes less dense, and the prairie, which extends as far as the 
 J.ocky Mountains, begins to show itself. Traces of settle- 
 ment are also more numerous. The houses of the settlers may 
 be seen here and there, also hundreds of cattle grazing on the 
 rich prairie grasses, and other evidences of the agricultural 
 industry become apparent. As Winnipeg is approached, 
 settlement becomes thicker than ever, and there is an air of 
 prosperity about the numerous comfortable houses and 
 well-fenced holdings. The capital of Manitoba is visible for a 
 considerable distance, owing to the flatness of the prairie, and 
 the first glimpses indicate that it is a busy and thriving place. 
 It, however, deserves a chapter to itself. 
 
u 
 
 VII. 
 
 WiNNIPK*!. 
 
 Winnipeg, tho capital of Manitoba, is situated about half- 
 way between tho Atlantic and tho Pacific, at thd confluence of 
 the Red and the Assiniboine liivers, and is the most important 
 place in Canada west of Ontario. The city is comparatively 
 modem, dating from the time of the transfer of the Hudson 
 Bay Territory to Canada and the formation of the Province of 
 Manitoba. At that time, in 1870, it had a population of two 
 or three hundred, but to-day tlio number of its inliabitants 
 probably exceeds 30,000. 
 
 In the early days of tho settlement tho only means of access 
 was by road over tho prairies from the United States. Later 
 on, in the seasons of navigation, boats of shallow draught plied 
 occasionally from Minnesota down the Red River to Winnipeg. 
 The first railway was from Emerson to Winnipeg, but it was only 
 in 1878 that this communication was enjoyed. With the active 
 construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway, however, both 
 Winnipeg and the country tributary to it rapidly developed, 
 and in 188G the Trans- Atlantic line, running through Winni- 
 peg, was open from Ocean to Ocean. T^urther develop- 
 ments in railway communication have been taking plnce ever 
 since, and seven or eight lines of railway now converge upon 
 Winnipeg. Manitoba is probably better served with railways 
 than any other community in the world, having regard to its 
 size and population. If report be true, it is not improbable 
 that a line may shortly be constructed north in the direction of 
 the Saskatchewan, which may be continued later on to Hudson 
 Bay — at any rate, this is the belief which prevails at the present 
 fu e in Manitoba. The rivers passing through Winnipeg are 
 not used now for navigation to any extent, the w^ater having 
 fallen below the level it formerly occupied. 
 
 Those who knew Winnipeg — or rather, the site on which it 
 now stands — in the old iludson Bay days, must marvel at the 
 metamorphosis which has taken place in comparatively a few 
 years. Fort Garry, as the place was called before the Province 
 was formed, was always the leading Hudson Bay Post in the 
 
26 
 
 i; 1 
 
 Western Territory. In fact, the only piece of antiquity 
 Winnipeg possesses is the old gateway of the Fort, and, 
 unless measures are taken to preserve this interesting relic, it 
 will soon crumble away. It will be remembered that Fort 
 Garry received a good deal of advertisement during the days of 
 the first Riel Rebellion, and it is not too much to say that the 
 story of its wonderful growth and development has been 
 advertised ever since, as few places have been so much 
 talked about in the last few years as the Prairie City. Of 
 course, it has had its ups and downs, like all other places. It 
 had its boom in 1882, when people went crazy in their desire to 
 dabble in land — an era in gambling in which all, men and 
 women, preacher and layman, rich and poor, speculated, and 
 colossal fortunes, on paper, were made daily. Men talked in 
 thousands as glibly as they now do in hundre^^s ; lots were 
 quoted at fabulous sums per front foot ; land in the suburbs, 
 two, three, four, or five miles from the business centre, was 
 surveyed into lots and purchased at high figures. Naturally, 
 the reaction set in, as it always does, and for a year or two 
 depression prevailed ; but confidence was restored in time, and, 
 in a quiet, business-like manner, the city began to prosper 
 again on a solid foundation, and has continued to progress. 
 
 The site of Winnipeg is a very eligible one for commerce, 
 and this explains, to a large extent, the development that has 
 taken place. It is the distributing centre for supplies to all 
 parts of the covmtry to the west, and it is also the great grain 
 and cattle market, besides being the seat of the manufacturing 
 industry of Manitoba, such as it is The city has certainly 
 been laid out with a view to its futare growth. The principal 
 street. Main Street, is about 2 miles long and 120 feet wide. 
 Many of the shops and business buildings are of a substantial 
 character and of creditable appearance, but there are still a 
 large number of wooden buildings, and more or less temporary 
 structures, which will, no doubt, give way in course of time to 
 more permanent premises. Electric tramways are found on 
 the leading streets, the electric light prevails everywhere, and 
 the water supply is fairly good. The only weak point about 
 Winnipeg is the state of the roads and sidewalks. No doubt 
 they will be improved in time, and, unpleasant though they 
 may be in wet weather, no one can question the wisdom of 
 economy in expenditure on the part of the city authorities. It 
 
aity 
 ind, 
 c, it 
 Fort 
 '8 of 
 the 
 been 
 [nuch 
 . Of 
 I. It 
 ire to 
 1 and 
 i, and 
 led in 
 J were 
 burbs, 
 3, was 
 urally, 
 or two 
 le, and, 
 prosper 
 
 as. 
 
 imerce, 
 hat has 
 s to all 
 it grain 
 icturing 
 lertainly 
 )rincipal 
 et wide, 
 bstantial 
 e still a 
 smporary 
 time to 
 ound on 
 ere, and 
 int about 
 )io doubt 
 ugh they 
 isdom of 
 :ities. It 
 
 27 
 
 is much bettei. to effect improvements of that kind gradually 
 than to build up huge municipal debts, which is so commonly 
 the case in the Colonies. The residential part of the city is 
 chiefly in and around what is known as the Hudson Bay 
 Reserve, and no one can walk through that part of the city 
 without being struck with the comfortable character of the 
 houses and the taste shown in their construction. There are 
 very few terraces, most of the houses being of the villa type, 
 in their own grounds. As the trees grow up along the wide 
 avenues, ^he appearance of that part of the city will be 
 delightful. 
 
 There can be no doubt as to the future of Winnipeg. It is 
 sure to become a large city. Whether its expansion will be 
 slow or rapid depends upon the way in which the Western 
 country is settled up. For some years, at any rate, its 
 progress is likely to be of the slow and sure description, 
 depending as it must do upon the welfare of the agricultural 
 community, of which the population of the country tributary 
 to it largely consists. A few days may be spent in Winnipeg 
 very pleasantly by the visitor. There are excellent hotels in the 
 city, chief among them being the Manitoba Hotel, erected by 
 the Northern Pacific Rrilroad Company. The drives and rides 
 about the country are delightful, and it is a convenient centre 
 for excursions nortli, south, east, and west. Fishing may be 
 obtained in Lakes Winnipeg and Manitoba, where the finest 
 whitefish are caught ; and big game shooting— moose and deer, 
 as well as bear — may be obtained within 40 or 50 miles of 
 Winnipeg, in the district between the two lakes already 
 mentioned. And in the proper seasons small game is also 
 very abundant. 
 
 i 
 
 vin. 
 
 To THE West ! 
 
 The boundary of Manitoba is about 210 miles from Winnipeg ; 
 and, except for the first 40 miles, where the district is but 
 sparsely inhabited, owing to the land being largely in the hands 
 of speculators, the agricultural industry of the country is seen 
 
28 
 
 I!"; 
 
 ■ 
 
 at its best from tho line of railway en route. In the autumn the 
 journey affords a sight that must be seen to be realised, as it is 
 impossible to adequately describe the fields of golden grain that 
 are to be seen stretching away on either side, as far as the eye 
 can reach. The country is apparently as level as a billiard 
 table — an expression that has been used before in descriptions 
 of the prairie — but still there is a gradual and imperceptible 
 ascent as we go west. Between Winnipeg and Portage-la- 
 Prairie (50 miles), for instance, there is a rise of about 100 feet, 
 and Brandon (133 miles) is 453 feet higher than Winnipeg ; and 
 when we get to the limits of the Province, the plain is about 
 700 feet higher than it is at the capital. 
 
 Portage-la-Prairie (population 4,200) is the first place of 
 importance after leaving Winnipeg. It is the centre of what 
 is known as the Portage Plains, an extensive and famous 
 wheat-field. There are several large elevators in the vicinity 
 of the station, also flour mills and other manufactories, and it 
 is the junction of the Manitoba and North- Western Railway, 
 already laid to Yorkton, in the direction of Prince Albert — 
 which it is destined some day to reach. The completion of the 
 line, the company owning which is just now in rather low 
 water, will open up a beautiful stretch of country in what is 
 known as the Fertile Belt. From Portage-la-Prairie to Brandon, 
 stations occur at every few miles. They are generally surrounded 
 by stores of various kinds, which form the source of supplies 
 for the district, and these apparently prosperous little villages 
 are also the local grain markets, the huge elevators at most 
 of them being landmarks for miles round. 
 
 Brandon, next to Winnipeg, is the most important town in 
 Manitoba. It has a large and fertile district tributary to it, its 
 streets and stores present a busy appearance, and it is not only 
 the leading grain market in the Province, but an important 
 railway junction. About a couple of miles from the town is 
 the Government experimental farm, under the able manage- 
 ment of Mr. Bedford. It consists of about 1,000 acres, and is 
 cut up into small plots, on which various experiments are 
 annually made in the growth of the many varieties of grain, 
 fruits, trees, &c. , likely to be of economic value to the farmers 
 of the Province. There is no doubt that all the cereals which 
 can be produced intemperate climates will grow in Manitoba, but 
 it is very impoitant to get the hardiest and earliest-ripening 
 
29 
 
 the 
 t is 
 hat 
 eye 
 ard 
 ons 
 ible 
 e-la- 
 feet, 
 and 
 ,bout 
 
 36 of 
 
 what 
 
 ,mou8 
 
 cinifcy 
 
 md it 
 
 ilway, 
 
 bert — 
 
 of the 
 
 er low 
 
 fhat is 
 
 andon, 
 
 aunded 
 
 upplies 
 
 villages 
 
 it most 
 
 ;own in 
 o it, its 
 not only 
 iportant 
 town is 
 manage- 
 and is 
 ents are 
 of grain, 
 3 farmers 
 als which 
 toba, but 
 ;-ripening 
 
 !3 
 
 rarieties, with a view to avoid the frosts which sometimes occur 
 at inopportune seasons. The experiments in fruit-growing are 
 especially interesting, and in the case of the smaller fruits 
 have been most successful, but, so far, it has not been found 
 possible to raise apples and pears. As, however, these fruits 
 are raised in Russia, in latitudes even higher than Manitoba, 
 the question of iinding and acclimatising suitable varieties will 
 probably only be a question of time. Special efforts are being 
 made to grow trees, which are not common on the prairies, 
 owing to the prairie fires that, before settlement took place, 
 periodically swept the country. Considerable success is attend- 
 ing the efforts of the director of the farm, in this direction, and 
 too much importance cannot be attached to the matter, as trees 
 are both useful for shelter and shade purposes, apart from 
 their ornamental advantages. Thoroughbred live stock and 
 poultry are also kept for breeding purposes, and as object- 
 lessons for the farmers in the surrounding districts. There is 
 constant communication between the director of the farm and 
 the agriculturists of the Province. Samples of seeds are 
 distributed annually to farmers who wish to have them, and 
 are prepared to carry out the experiments on the lines 
 laid down, and the privilege is largely availed of. Then, again, 
 parties of farmers frequently visit the Government farm, 
 and take that opportunity of exchanging views with the experts 
 who are in charge of it. Altogether, the system of the experi- 
 mental farms has been a great success, and the efforts of the 
 Dominion Government to improve the condition of the farmers 
 is deserving of every encouragement. 
 
 The country from Brandon to Regina, the capital of the 
 North-West Territories, a distance of about 225 miles, is of 
 very much the same description as that already mentioned — 
 flat, with here and there a little wood, chiefly poplar and scrub 
 oak ; occasionally, also, a few miles of undulating park-like 
 land is crossed. Villages are found as before in the neighbour- 
 hood of the various stations, and farmhouses are never out of 
 sight. Wheat-growing is the staple industry, but the farmers are 
 engaging now more largely in mixed farming every year, and 
 greater numbers of cattle are to be seen about the farms than 
 was the case a few years ago. Indian Head is the site of another 
 of the Government Experimental Farms, to which the remarks 
 made about that at Brandon apply equally. In the neighbour- 
 
30 
 
 hood arc also the largo farms of Lord Brassey, and the Bell 
 Farm, which is being worked by Major Boll himself, to his 
 own satisfaction and profit, it is said. The farmers in the 
 district are said to be doing very well, although they 
 naturally feel the low prices that prevail. It is no un- 
 common sight 1 this district to see the Indians working 
 on the farms side by side with their pale-face brethren, 
 and, if report be true, they work well and earn their wages, 
 many of them becoming quite expert in the handling of farm 
 machinery. A little further on Qu'Appelle is reached — also the 
 centre of a fine farming country. From that place the old 
 Northern trail used formerly to start, but it has now been 
 largely superseded by the railway from Rcgina to Prince 
 Albert. At Qu'Appelle the prairie loses some of its flatness, 
 becomes more undulating, and clumps of fair-sized trees are to 
 be seen here and there, giving rise to the park-like appear- 
 ance which has been often described. 
 
 IX. 
 
 Regina. 
 
 Regina, the capital of the North- West Territories, is a typical 
 prairie city. It has a population of less than 2,500, and is 
 built on the flat prairie, there being hardly a tree anywhere in 
 sight. There is little or no water in the neighbourhood, except- 
 ing the Wascana River, which is not much larger than an old 
 country brook. The want of water has been somewhat felt in 
 the surrounding country, even for ordinary farm purposes, 
 but the boring experiments that have been conducted under 
 the auspices of the Government of the North- West Territories 
 have shown that a fair amount of water exists at a reasonable 
 depth. It is the intention to increase the number of boring 
 machines that are being used, and thty will be placed at the 
 disposal of the settlers without charge. In the near future, 
 therefore, there is every probability that a well of good water 
 will be found on every homestead. Regina has not grown very 
 
31 
 
 ell 
 Kis 
 the 
 ley 
 un- 
 ing 
 ren, 
 ges, 
 arm 
 I the 
 old 
 been 
 rinco 
 ness, 
 ire to 
 •pear- 
 
 typical 
 and is 
 lere in 
 [except- 
 an old 
 felt in 
 irposes, 
 under 
 ritories 
 lisonable 
 boring 
 at the 
 future, 
 Id -water 
 Iwn very 
 
 much in the last few years, but the buildings have somewhat 
 improved, and the place has a more solid appearance than 
 formerly. A new hotel has proved to be a great convenience 
 to travellers, and the banks, and many of the private residents, 
 as well as the larger storekeepers, are housed in a much more 
 comfortable manner than they were. 
 
 Although the town does not present a very busy appearance, 
 there is a good deal of trade done in connection with the dis- 
 tribution of supplies to the district tributary tc it. It is also an 
 important market for various kinds of farm and dairy pro- 
 duce ; and the provision of stores and supplies and forage 
 for the North-West Mounted Police is of much value to the 
 neighbouring farmers. The country is fairly well settled on 
 the north and south and to the east, especially in the last- 
 named direction. During 1894, however, the crops were 
 not particularly good, owing to the dry season that prevailed, 
 and the grass on the prairie was very much shorter than 
 usual. The soil is rather on the heavy side, and requires a 
 good deal of rain, as well as an average quantity of sunshine, 
 to enable it to produce abundantly of the fruits of the earth. 
 
 The residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the North- 
 West Territories is at Regina, and the present occupant of that 
 position is the Hon. C. H. Mackintosh, formerly a member of 
 the Dominion Parliament, and proprietor of the Ottawa Citizen. 
 Mr. Mackintosh is well known in every part of Canada, and 
 his geniality and humour, and his wide circle of friends, serve 
 to draw a continual stream of delighted guests to the Govern- 
 ment House. Largely through his instrumentality an Exhibition, 
 on a more than usually comprehensive scale, is to take place at 
 Regina next year. The local Government is helping with 
 funds, and so is the Dominion Government, and Regina has 
 given 1^10,000 towards the expenses. It is likely to be a big 
 success.* 
 
 The Legislative Assembly also meets at Regina, but the 
 number of the members is limited, and the accommodation is not 
 on the palatial side, although, no doubt, perfectly adequate for 
 the purpose. The powers of the Assembly are gradually being 
 developed, and will in time correspond more or less with 
 those conferred upon the other Provinces of the Dominion. 
 
 * This Bxhibltion was duly held, being opened by Hit Excellency the Earl of 
 Aberdeen, and was moat saoeeBBtul. 
 
mm 
 
 32 
 
 i;!'!: 
 
 Tho Tpresont arrangements are, of course, of a provisional 
 nature, and sufficient to moot the requirements of a large, 
 sparsely inhabited country. No doubt in tho dim and distant 
 future — and tho time may, perhaps, come sooner than we 
 expect— the different districts forming tho North-West Terri. 
 tories will have become the homes of hundreds of thousands 
 of happy and contented settlers, and be full-fledged Provinces. 
 Regina is tho headfiuartcrs of the North-West Mounted Police, 
 a force which has grown up with the country and has rendered 
 immense service in the maintenance of law and order and in 
 the administration of justice. It was organised in the early 
 days after the transfer of the Hudson Bay Territory to tho 
 Dominion Government, and until quite recently consisted of 
 nearly 1,000 men. It will bo understood that in the small 
 settlements that have sprung up all over tho country there aro 
 no municipal police, and the North-West Mounted Police have 
 practically had charge of the whole country. For many years 
 they also had the supervision of tho Indians, and even now 
 the Indian Department finds their co-operation especially 
 valuable. They have also to deal with Customs matters, 
 patrolling the boundary, and with quarantine, and one of their 
 principal duties in times gone by was to prevent tho smuggling 
 of bad whisky from tho States. During the construction of the 
 Canadian-Pacific Railway there were over 20,000 navvies and 
 labourers employed on tho works, not tho most reputable mem- 
 bers of tho world's population, and probably the most cosmo- 
 politan crowd to be found anywhere. There were, however, 
 very few disturbances ; the force maintained its prestige, and it 
 has been said, and probably truly, that the rapid construction of 
 the line would hardly have been possible had it not been for the 
 police. In addition to their other duties, they have, of course, to 
 look after ordinary criminal matters. Every part of the country is 
 also regularly patrolled : the police aro obliged to call upon the 
 settlers in the outlying districts, who sign their papers, and 
 report anything of a suspicious character that may have 
 happened since the last visit. 
 
 With tho development of the country many of tho duties 
 formerly undertaken by the police are now placed under 
 the charge of other departments o. tho Government, and 
 an endeavour is being made to reduce the force. In 
 fact, it now only numbers about 750, a« compared with 
 
33 
 
 al 
 
 e, 
 nt 
 
 we 
 
 ri, 
 
 ids 
 
 BB. 
 
 ice, 
 
 sred 
 
 1 in 
 
 arly 
 
 I the 
 
 d of 
 
 unall 
 
 3 are 
 
 have 
 
 years 
 
 1 now 
 
 icially 
 
 ittcrs, 
 
 I their 
 
 ggUng 
 of the 
 
 c8 and 
 incm- 
 
 cosmo- 
 wcver, 
 and it 
 ;tion of 
 for the 
 urse, to 
 untry is 
 on the 
 rs, and 
 have 
 
 duties 
 under 
 Int, and 
 Ice. Ii^ 
 jd with 
 
 1,000 a few years ago. All recruits arc received at Hegiiia, 
 and many of the Iiorscs rcfiuired for tlio force arc broken and 
 trained tlioro. Every c(jnsider.'vti<m is sliown to the men ; 
 amusements of all kinds are provided at head([uarter8, and at 
 all the divisional posts, and altogether thoy do not seem to 
 have a l)ad time of it. The popularity of the force is shown by 
 the fact that a considerable portion oi the men apply to re- 
 enlist at the end of the term for which they are engaged. The 
 force is a semi-military one, and is drilled and trained as 
 cavalry, the dress being similar to that (»f the Dragoons. Many 
 of the troopers are men of education and imsition, who have 
 entered the force from a love of the unconventional life which 
 it affords. 
 
 X. 
 
 TlIK HkOIXA DiSTllKT. 
 
 To simply rush through the North- West Territories in a railway 
 carriage, as the train speeds on its way to the Rocky Mountains, 
 not only becomes monotonous after a time, Vjut is unsatisfac- 
 tory to the in(juiring mind in more ways than one. If a 
 traveller wishes to form any accurate idea of the progress of 
 the coimtry, and of the people settled there, it is absolutely 
 necessary to get a team and drive away from the railway. This 
 enables one to see both the farms and the farmers, and to gain 
 reliable information of the manner in which the country is 
 being developed. At many j)laces two or three da>8 can be 
 profitably spent in that fashion, and it is a charming variety to 
 railway travelling, crnnfortublc and convenient though the 
 latter may be. This letter and the following one will desci-ibe 
 briefly a three days' trip from llegina. 
 
 Starting from llegina one afternoon in September, we made, 
 in the first place, for the Indian Reserve known as *'Mus-cow- 
 petungs," situated in the Qu'Appelle Valley, about .'JO miles 
 north-east of the capital. For the first half of the journey the 
 country, which slopes gradually to the north, is slightly undu- 
 lating prairie, and is fairly settled, farmhouses being always in 
 
 I 
 
34 
 
 sight from the trail. The settlers consist chiefly of persona 
 from the Old Country, with a sprinkling of Germans and 
 Scandinavians. For the rest of the journey, the land is 
 covered with small bush, from 10 to 15 feet high, consisting 
 chiefly of scrub oak and poplar, the undergrowth being com- 
 posed largely of wild flowers and fruits. This portion of the 
 district of Assiniboia is much more undulating than that nearer 
 Regina, and we came across a few farms in very picturesque 
 locations. The land is fairly good, there is an abundance 
 of wood, and plenty of shelter, the last-named being no 
 unimportant matter in view of the winds that are common 
 on the prairie. Most of the settlers were complaining of the 
 drought, in consequence of which their crops were not so good 
 as they might have been. Still, a Canadian farmer is not 
 easily discouraged, and always looks forward to t,he next year 
 as likely to be more prosperous than the previous one. Of 
 course, his expenses, in any case, are not very f;ieat. He has no 
 rent to pay ; taxes are light, even if any have to be paid at all 
 in out-of-the-way districts ; he can raise almost all his re- 
 quirements on his farm ; and, if he is careful, there is no need 
 for him to run seriously into debt, even in a bad year. 
 
 We arrived late in the evening at the Reserve, and, althougli 
 quite unexpected, were hospitably received, entertained, and 
 put up for the night, by the Agent, who has passed many years 
 in the service of the Indian Department, and is thoroughly 
 acquainted with everything pertaining to the red man. After 
 supper we had a long and interesting talk with our friend in 
 regard to Indian aflairs, as to the advance the red man is 
 making in the ways of civilisation, and the future of the race. 
 This problem will, however, more properly form the subject 
 of a special letter later on. There are three tribes attached to 
 the Agency we visited — Mus-cow-petung's, already mentioned, 
 *' Pie-a-Pot's," and "Pasquah's." The names given are those 
 of the head chiefs of the tribes. All the reserves are located 
 in the Qu'Appelle Valley, and on some of the finest land in 
 the country. We visited all the tribes, but very few of the 
 Indians were "at home," nearly all of them, as well as the 
 women and children, being away gathering hay, having con- 
 tracted for the supply required by the North- West Mounted 
 Police. We met several of them taking the hay into Regina as 
 ■we drove out, and it is interesting to know, on the authortiy 
 
35 
 
 jrsons 
 3 and 
 ,nd is 
 jisting 
 ; com- 
 of the 
 nearer 
 resque 
 n dance 
 ng no 
 ommon 
 ; of the 
 so good 
 
 is not 
 xt year 
 ne. Of 
 e has no 
 tid at all 
 
 his re- 
 no need 
 
 of the Commandant of the Police, that the best hay they get 
 is that obtained from the Indians. In the reserve of whicli we are 
 writing, the Indians are nearly self-supporting, and earn almost 
 enough money to keep themselves, requiring very little assist- 
 ance from the Government either in the way of food or cloth- 
 ing. It is needless to say that this is the object of the policy 
 of the Government, but it follows necessarily that its success 
 depends a good deal upon the tact and judgment of the Agents 
 placed in charge of the Indians, who are in many cases like a 
 lot of children. Many of the Indians have purchased agricul- 
 tural machinery, chiefly mowers, rakes and carts, on their own 
 account, and also own the ponies and cattle they use in their 
 work. 
 
 In the summer the Indians much prefer to live in their tents, 
 which are now made of canvas, instead of hide, as was the 
 case when the buffalo was plentiful. In winter most of them 
 take up their quarters in small wooden huts which they have 
 erected. The buildings are primitive, both in their structure 
 and accommodation, but in some of them attempts at decoration 
 have been made in the way of wall-papers of florid designs. 
 The furniture is also exceedingly rough, even in cases where it 
 is found at all, but in every one of the huts useful stoves are 
 placed, for heating and cooking purposes. In the summer all 
 the huts are fastened up and deserted for the tents : indeed, 
 many of the Indians prefer the latter in winter, although the 
 cold is sometimes intense. While it may be stated generally 
 that the Indians have progressed in many ways, they certainly 
 do not seem to appreciate the merits of cleanliness, and it may 
 be that this circumstance has much to do with their preference 
 for the tent over other forms of residences. The tent can be 
 readily moved when the small live stock becomes too abundant, 
 which is not the case with a more substantial structure ! 
 
 After leaving the Reserve, we drove along the valley in the 
 direction of Fort Qu'Appelle, an old Hudson Bay poat, 
 but now a small settlement, in which stores of various 
 kinds may be found, as well as two or three hotels, livery 
 stables, flour mills, and other industrial establishments. The 
 scenery on this drive of about 20 miles is of a very pic- 
 turesque description. The valley is about 200 feet below the 
 level of the prairie, and varies from one mile to two miles in 
 width. The cliffs, if they may be so termed, on either side of 
 
 q2 
 
 m 
 
 
36 
 
 the valley, take very curious fonnB and shapoB, and it is rather 
 odd that the side with the nortliorn ex])oguro is covorod with 
 small bush, while the northern side of the valley, with a southern 
 exposure, is ([uito bare of trees of any kind. Settlers' houses 
 are seen all along the road, and cattle grazing is the principal 
 vocation of the farmers. In addition, however, to their work, 
 they are able to obtain any amount of shooting and lishing, and 
 they seem to indulge largely in sport — no doubt chiefly for the 
 purpose of food. The Qu'Appelle Valley was formerly a very 
 favourable district witli immigrants, and most of the free- 
 grant land is probal)ly now appropriated. Wo stayed the night 
 at the Indian Industrial Scho(d, about two miloH east from Fort 
 Qu'Appelle — thanks to the kindness of the Rev. Father Hugon- 
 nard, who has charge of the institution. 
 
 XI. 
 
 :iMi! 
 
 I i 
 
 Tin: Indians — Fakmintj auoind Indian Head. 
 
 The Indian Industrial School at Fort Qu'Appelle, which is 
 under the able supervision of the Rev. J. Hugonnard, deserves 
 more than passing mention. It is doing a noble work, and 
 upon it and similar institutions largely depends the solution of 
 the interesting Indian problem. Elibrts are being made to lift 
 the Indians out of the wretched position they have occupied for 
 so long, to make them appreciate tl.e advantages of a better 
 mode of living, and the necessity of working for a liveli- 
 hood. The institution is not entirely a Government one, but a 
 certain payment is made for every child sent there. Under 
 existing legislation the Government have power to take children 
 from the tribes and place them in Industrial Schools, where 
 they are kept until they arrive at years of discretion. So 
 attached to the schools do they become, that they frequently 
 return to them in after years, in case of ill-health or of tem- 
 porary difficulties in procuring employment. Cases of running 
 away are extremely rare. During the term in which they are 
 
 hav 
 
87 
 
 hich is 
 jserves 
 k, and 
 tion of 
 to lift 
 lied for 
 better 
 liveli- 
 , but a 
 Under 
 [hildren 
 where 
 .n. So 
 quently 
 )f tern- 
 running 
 bhey are 
 
 kept at, the hcHooIh the ciiildron are not allowed to return to the 
 reso /es from which tliey camo, but they are often visited by 
 their parents. It is not an unusual, and it certainly in a pathetic 
 sight, to see an Indian cart and pony, with the inevitable 
 *' teepee " [tent] outside the «^atesof the instituiion, and a dusky 
 couple who have come to gaze upon their boy or girl who has 
 been tivken in hand by the Cjlovcrnment. Ah the Indians have 
 nothing to gain by making those visits, and in sotno cases travel 
 hundreds of miles for the purpose, it serves to show that they 
 have the same feelings towards their olFspring as their pale- 
 faced brethren. In addition to the industrial schools, several 
 of which are found scattered over the North- West Territories, 
 day and boarding schools have been organised on some of the 
 reserves, but they are not spoken of very hopefully, either by 
 the schoolmasters or by the Indian agents. The same influence 
 and authority cannot be exerted over the children that is 
 possible at the industrial schools, and the frequent oppor- 
 tunities they have of seeing their parents, and of return- 
 ing to their old life and habits, tend to undo much of 
 the good that might otherwise be expected from the work- 
 ing of such establishments. There are about 200 children a 
 the Qu'Appelle school, the number being about cfjually divided 
 between the sexes. The head of the Institution, Father 
 Hugonnard, has a stafl' of assistants, and the girls are looked 
 after by a number of Sisters fnnn some of the Conventual 
 Institutions in Eastern Canada. The boys are tanght various 
 trades, and they seem to be very apt and very willing workers. 
 Many of them are hired out, not only in the neighbourhood but 
 in places some distance away, and the young mechanics are often 
 in great demand. Naturally, they keep the buildings in proper 
 repair, and work the farm. The girls are taught the different 
 branches of domestic service, and also to cut out and make 
 clothes, so that altogether the institution may be said to be 
 self-supporting. 
 
 The process of improving the Indian is necessarily a slow one, 
 but those who are interested in the work appear to be confi- 
 dent that the rising generation will prove to be a great advance 
 upon the adults of the present day, and that they will abandon 
 the mode of living to which their parents have been accus- 
 tomed. It is interesting to know that a few cases of marriage 
 have taken place among the elder boys and girls brought up in 
 
38 
 
 i 
 
 the institution. Tho young men socm to bo doing woll, citlicr 
 in farming (jr as mochanics in differont parts of tho territory. 
 
 Tho follf)wing are some extracts from the latest report of 
 Father Uugonnard about the boys and girls entrusted to his 
 care : — "Tho trade boys are becoming eilicient at their different 
 trades. Two carpenter boys worked j)art of last summer on tl j 
 new Indian Department warehouse at Regina, and two al,,o 
 worked tho whole winter on tho building erected at tho Tfigh 
 River Industrial School. In both places tho boys gave satisfac- 
 tion, and proved by their efliciency, manners, and use of 
 English, tho progress they have made here. Repairs were done 
 to tho File Hills Agency buildings, to the boarding school on 
 the Sioux reserve, and over twenty regulation desks were made 
 
 for schools on tho Sioux and Touchwood Hills reserve 
 
 Tho blacksmith and apprentices did all our own work, and, as 
 in the other trades, made various articles for tho Chicago Exhi- 
 bition. . . . The girls, under tho able superintendence of tho 
 Reverend Sisters, kept improving in their studies, and in all 
 kinds of house work. They sent a variety of work to the 
 Chicago Exhibition. Eighteen girls are at j)resent hired out, 
 and many applications for servant girls have had '^'> be refused, 
 owing to tho repugnance of some parents and girls to service. 
 Those hired out receive from $4: to jJflO a month, and give as 
 much satisfaction as white girls. Even in the houses of tho 
 highest class they are sought for as servants. One is at Govern- 
 ment House, and another was there previously for over a year. 
 During the past year the pnpils have earned over ^1,400." 
 
 It is not all work and no play at the institution. Among 
 other amusements, the children have an excellent gymnasium 
 and a competent instructor, and some of the young people are 
 very expert in their gymnastic exercises. They also play cricket 
 and football, and during tho last summer were able to defeat 
 the team from the Fort, and also the team of the North-West 
 Mounted Police. They also have a brass band, in which much 
 interest is taken. No one who visits the institution can fail to 
 bo impressed with the value of the work that is being done, 
 and with the brightness and intelligence displayed by many of 
 the pupils. Both the Indian Department and those connected 
 with the institution have cause to be gratified at the resuH of 
 their eftbrts to improve the condition of the red man. Of 
 course, it is only a beginning, but the progress already made is 
 
89 
 
 her 
 
 i- 
 t <)f 
 
 his 
 rent 
 it: J 
 
 aVo 
 High 
 isfac- 
 30 of 
 
 done 
 ol on 
 made 
 
 I • • • 
 
 nd, as 
 
 Exhi- 
 of tho 
 
 in all 
 to tho 
 3d out, 
 efusod, 
 service. 
 <tive as 
 
 of tho 
 3ovcrn- 
 
 a year. 
 
 3." 
 
 Among 
 nnasium 
 jople aro 
 y cricket 
 bo defeat 
 •th-West 
 ich much 
 m fail to 
 ing done, 
 ' many of 
 •onnected 
 
 resuVj of 
 man. Of 
 V made is 
 
 encouraging, and the future is full of hope. No doubt the 
 present policy, satisfactory though it is, may have to be deve- 
 loped, but tho Canadian (jovemment is not likely to lag behind 
 in endeavouring to solve satisfactorily the diflicult problem it 
 has taken in hand. It is unfortunate that a proportion of tho 
 young people are not as strong, physically, as might bo desired, 
 many of them showing some hereditary taint in the way of disease. 
 No doubt their condition may alsc be attributed to the way in 
 which they are brought up. 
 
 After leaving the industrial school, we drove to Indian Head 
 through a very well-settled dis^-rict. Farm-houses could be 
 seen everywhere, and +ho stacks of grain which were dotted 
 over tho landscape gave an indication of tlio extent of the crops 
 of the year. Threshing machines were also famwiar objects, 
 and hero ana there could bo seen flames arising from im- 
 mense heaps of straw which were being burnt as tho only 
 means of getting rid of them. The farmers, upon the whole, 
 seemed to bo very well satisfied with their progress, although 
 they complain of the loss they had sustained by the drought 
 which prevailed, and which lessened the yield to a certain 
 extent. After three or four hours' drive, the immense eleva- 
 tors at Indian Head appeared on tho horizon, and we wore soon 
 under the hospitable roof of Major Bell, of the well-known 
 Bell Farm. That gentleman had many thousands of acres 
 under cultivation, and there are several largo farms in tho 
 neighbourhood owned by Lord Brassey and others. There is 
 also a Government Experimental Farm, under the supervision 
 of Mr. McKay. The crops in this district were smaller than 
 those in 1893, which were phenomenal, but the grain was of 
 the best quality, and altogether the farmers appeared to be 
 fairly satisfied with their year's work. 
 
 1' 
 
 K 
 
 li 1 
 
40 
 
 XII. 
 
 Reqina to Princp: Albeut. 
 
 '»i:r 
 
 i^ll 
 
 Princo Albert is provided with railway communication by 
 means of a line from Regina, the distance being about 250 
 miles. After the first few miles, the country for a considerable 
 part of the journey is not of a particularly inviting character, 
 especially in autumns like that of last year, Avhen drought 
 prevailed for many weeks. There was little or no grass on the 
 prairie, and, as far as the eye reached, it presented a burnt-up 
 appearance. This part of the territories does not appear to be 
 popular with settlers, at any rate along the line of the railway. 
 Things began to look brighter as we approached Saskatoon, 
 160 miles from Regina. At that place the trail to Battleford 
 branches off from the old Prince Albert trail, which, however, 
 is now but little used, owing to the railway. Up to Saskatoon 
 little or no timber had been visible since leaving Regina ; but for 
 the rest of the way clumps of trees and scrubby bush became 
 more abundant, and the country has a better and more practi- 
 cal sort of look, from an agricultural point of view. This 
 applies to all the country north of Saskatoon right up to Prince 
 Albert. We left the train at Duck Lake and spent the evening 
 in discussing the district with several gentlemen residing in the 
 neighbourhood, who are keenly alive to its attractions and 
 advantages. 
 
 On the following day we drove from Duck Lake to Prince 
 Albert, a distance of about 50 miles, the whole district being 
 full of associations connected with the Riel rebellion in 1885. 
 A little time was spent at Batoche, where we crossed the south 
 branch of the Saskatchewan River and had a look over the old 
 rifle pits of the half-breeds, and walked over the ground on 
 which the famous charge was made that settled the outbreak. 
 We saw several persons who were engaged in the troubles, but 
 the affair has now become ancient history and is not i; ich 
 talked about in the neighbourhood. The country along the 
 river bank, through St. Laurent to Alexander's Crossing, where 
 we again ferried over the Saskatchewan, is fairly well settled, 
 largely with French half-breeds, with a good sprinkling of 
 
 If 
 c 
 
 1 i 
 
41 
 
 by 
 
 250 
 
 iblc 
 
 iter, 
 
 jght 
 
 I the 
 
 it-up 
 
 o be 
 
 way. 
 
 toon, 
 
 eford 
 
 rever, 
 
 itoon 
 
 lut for 
 
 ecarne 
 
 practi- 
 This 
 *rince 
 rening 
 in the 
 IS and 
 
 retired Hudson Bay men and other settlers, who all speak 
 favourably of its agricultural resources. The houses and farms 
 present a fairly comfortable and prosperous appearance. In 
 this district very little trouble is experienced from summer or 
 autumn frosts, and last year, an exceptional one in the matter 
 of droughts, they had a sufficiency of ram for their farming 
 operations. On the whole, the people seem to be doing well, 
 and to be quite satisfied with their lot. All they want is more 
 people to occupy the thousands upon thousands of acres of 
 good land that are simply lying idle, only waiting to bo tilled to 
 produce all the crops that can bo grown in temperate climates. 
 
 The country north of Saskatoon is not nearly so monotonous 
 as on the level plains to the south. There is plenty of rolling 
 ground, wood and water are abundant, and game of all Knids 
 is plentiful. We stayed at several farms after leaving Alex- 
 ander's Crossing, and had conversations with the settlers, all of 
 whom seemed to be fairly contented and happy. About six or 
 seven miles from Prince Albert and all around that plfce the 
 country really presents the appearance of an old and well- 
 settled district. Among several large farms, we visited that 
 of Mr. McKay, a half-breed, a member of the Legislative 
 Council of the Territories, and a most intelligent man. He 
 farms altogether about 5,000 acres, and we saw one tield of 
 about 1,000 acres in extent, all fenced in, containing golden 
 crops that were just about to be cut. It was a sight which 
 will not easily be forgotten. Prince Albert is the centre of a 
 good district, in which any new settler might make a comfort- 
 able home, and have the advantage of a good climate and con- 
 genial surroundings. 
 
 Prince Albert itself is a town of about 2,000 people, and lies 
 in the valley of the North Saskatchewan, about 300 feet below 
 the level of the prairie. It is well built, and has a prosperous 
 sort of look, and the first glimpse of it from the top of the 
 prairie is very picturesque. Most of the houses are painted 
 a pleasant brown colour, and the uniformity is in pleasing 
 contrast to the appearance of many other places of the same 
 size. The river is from a quarter to half a mile wide, and on 
 the north side the timber belt begins. At Prince Albert, there 
 is a force of the North-West Mounted Police, under the 
 command of Major Cotton, an energetic and able officer, 
 who is well known all over the country. Of course every man 
 
 
42 
 
 in the North-Wcst owns one or more dogs for sporting purposes, 
 but one of the most clever animals wo came across in our travels 
 was a dog belonging to Major Cotton. It was a cross between 
 a Cocker spaniel and a setter, and had a wonderful nose. One 
 night, at about 11 o'clock, the dog was shown an egg, which 
 two of the visitors afterwards hid on the prairie about 200 yards 
 from the house. After their return the dog, which, in the 
 meantime, had been lying under a chair in the smoking room, 
 was sent out to bring the egg back. He took rather longer 
 than usual, being somewhat confused by the crossing of the 
 tracks, which was done in order to throw the dog ofl' the scent 
 if possible. However, the attempt was not successful, and in 
 the course of a couple of minutes the dog brought the egg back 
 uncracked, showing not only a keen nose but a tender mouth. 
 The egg, it may be mentioned, was marked with initials, so that 
 there could bo no mistake ' nit the matter. 
 
 On the following day we returned by rail to llegina, which we 
 reached safely, very well pleased with our three days' excursion 
 in the Haskatchewan country. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Regina to Cau;auy. 
 
 Continuing our journey to the West, we travelled over the 
 Canadian Pacilic Railway from Regina to Calgary. There is 
 not very much settloiuent in that part of the country, 
 although more small farmers are there than was the case on 
 a previous visit in 1889. At intervals may be seen the farms 
 of the Canadian Agricultural Coal and Colonisation Company, 
 each covering a considerable acreage. The principal business 
 at the present time on these properties seems to be the raising 
 of cattle, sheep, and horses, the only arable farming that is done 
 being for the purpose of providing food for the stock. A 
 good many of the surplus cattle are shipped to England, 
 as well as the sheep, and the horses are sold locally. The com- 
 pany also sends a considerable quantity of meat to the West as 
 
 el 
 
 i] 
 
i?> 
 
 the 
 is 
 
 [try, 
 
 on 
 irms 
 lany, 
 InesH 
 ising 
 lone 
 A 
 land, 
 Icom- 
 ;st as 
 
 far as Vancouver. Conducted on so lurf^o a Hcalo, with every 
 opportunity of economising labour and expenses, one would 
 think that the farms should have proved a success, but, so far, 
 such has not Vjeen the case, chiefly, it is said, in con- 
 8e([uence of the way in which they have been managed. 
 That, a-i so often proves to bo the case, has been much more 
 expensive, especially in the earlier days of the company, than 
 was contemplated, or than farming would warrant, even with 
 the higher prices that were obtained for all kinds of produce 
 some years ago. 
 
 The principal places between Regina and Calgary are Moose 
 daw, Swift Current, Dunmoro, and Medicine Hat, and the level 
 of the country gradually ascends from 1,870 feet to nearly 
 .'{,400 feet. From Dunmore a branch line, now worked by 
 the C. 1*. R., leads to the coal mines at Lethbridge, and an 
 extension of the railway on a narrower gauge provides a market 
 for the coal in Montana. Medicine Hat is the largest of all 
 the places mentioned, and derives its importance chiefly from 
 its position as a railway divisional point. The railway crosses 
 the Saskatchewan about a ((uarter of a mile from the town, the 
 river being about iJOOor 400 yards wide. There is always a con- 
 siderable number of Indians squatthig on the station platform, 
 painted and got up for show purposes ; at any rate, one never 
 sees them so "iixed" away from the stations. Their chief object 
 in life appears to be to sell cow-horns, polished and furbished up 
 to look like buffalo trophies, and they seem to find a ready market 
 for their wares. In this part of Canada the buffalo used to 
 roam in countless myriads, and it does seem a thousand pities 
 that they should have been allowed to die out, or rather exter- 
 minated, without an effort being made for their preservation. 
 Their tracks, to and from water, may still be seen, and the 
 shallow holes in which they used to wallow are also very 
 numerous. Lakes, many of them alkaline, are frequently 
 passed, and they serve to attract Avild fowl ; but the country 
 generally has an arid appearance. Competent scientific authori- 
 ties state, however, that with cultivation the land will improve, 
 and that it is capable of producing grain and vegetables of all 
 kinds — which, to a certain extent, was proved by the small 
 experimental stations established by the railway company at 
 intervals throughout the district some years ago, 
 Calgary is the most solid-locking town between Winnipeg and 
 
 
44 
 
 the Rocky Mountains. It has a population of over 3,000, and 
 its inhabitants appear to have gone there to stay — to use a 
 local euphemism — judging by the character of the buildings they 
 have erected. There are several hotels good, substantial-looking 
 structures. The business houses and stores in the principal 
 streets are all also well built, a light-coloured sandstone that 
 is found in the neighbourhood being generally used. Atten- 
 tion is also apparently paid to style as well as to comfort. The 
 town is very prettily situated between the Bow and Elbow 
 rivers, with a ridge of low hills on one side. It is a railway 
 divisional point and an important junction, the lines to Edmon- 
 ton on the north, and to McLeod on the south, passing into the 
 C. P. R. station. It is the source of supplies for the ^-anches 
 that are found on all sides of the town and for the mining 
 districts in the Rocky Mountains — which, by-the-way, are 
 clearly visible from Calgary in anything like fine weather. The 
 enterprising people of Calgary do not like the visitor to go 
 away with the idea that the country around is only good 
 for grazing purposes. They claim that the district is suitable 
 for mixed and dairy farming, but they seem to have arrived at 
 the conclusion that irrigation is necessary to enable it to fulfil 
 all the anticipations that have been formed of it. In fact, 
 irrigation is now the leading topic of conversation, and more 
 than one scheme will be in operation in the course of the coming 
 year (1895). 
 
 Like most iDlaces of any pretence in Canada, Calgary has its 
 club. It is called " The Ranchmen's Club," and an exceedingly 
 comfortable place it is. The membership is limited, and its 
 members are generally interested in the ranching business, as its 
 name implies, by far the larger proportion being Englishmen. 
 There is little or nothing, however, of what is known in the 
 United Kingdom as the cowboy element, either in Cal- 
 gary or in the district tributary to it. The cowboy of 
 fiction is a loud individual, extravagant in dress, in language, 
 and with an infinite capacity for "painting the town red." 
 Neither at the club, nor on the ranches, ac " rounds up," nor, 
 indeed, on any occasion, does one meet with the individual of 
 whom one reads much occasionally. The cowboys are, as a 
 rule, gentlemanly fellows, well conducted, well read, quiet and 
 unassuming ; they look like Englishmen, and not something 
 between a South American gaucho, an Indian, and a bush- 
 

 ^ \\ ^ \\\« '. \(^ \\L ^ ■• v;;>\ -.^ Nw -.W"^^'^ 
 
 311. 
 
 of 
 
 or, 
 of 
 s a 
 md 
 ing 
 ish- 
 
 Siii W1LLIA3I Van Horne, K.C.M.G. 
 
 (^President, Canadian I\icifio llaUn\i)j). 
 
T 
 
 ( I 
 
47 
 
 ranger, as they are so often depicted. Those we met in the 
 course of our travels were the best of good fellows, and we 
 looked in vain for any specimens of the cowboy of pen and 
 percil. 
 
 Ill 
 
 XIV. 
 
 At Calgauy — and en koute to Edmonton. 
 
 In a previous letter it was mentioned that in ordinary 
 circumstances the Rocky Mountains are distinctly visible from 
 Calgary, although they are more than GO miles away. The air 
 is so clear, and the altitude is so considerable — about 3,000 feet 
 above the sea level — that the mountains, with their snowy 
 peaks, seem to be but a few miles away ; and, if the stories one 
 hears are to be believed, a good many people have from time 
 to time jumped to the conclusion that the mountains were as 
 near as they appeared to be. In Calgary one is always told of 
 the young man who started out, as he said, to walk to the 
 mountains and back again before lunch, and no one inter- 
 fered with his good intentions. As he did not return in the 
 course of the day, a search party went out to look for him, and 
 found him stripped by the side of a small stream over which he 
 could have easily jumped. When asked what he was doing, he 
 replied that appearances in that country were so deceptive that 
 he did not intend to be taken in any more. It was all very fine 
 for his friends to state that he could jump over the stream, but, 
 for all he knew, it might be a mile across, and he had therefore 
 prepared for the swim, not intending in any case to return to 
 Calgary until he had accomplished his journey ! There is another 
 story of a man who had tried the same trip, and who on his 
 return, at dinner, was asked by a near neighbour to pass 
 the salt, but he begged to be excused, for although, he said, the 
 salt appeared to be near, ho was not sure, in view of his other 
 experiences, that it was not far beyond his reach. Stories of 
 this kind increase in number, and possibly in potency, the 
 longer one stays in the town, but one can to a certain extent 
 appreciate the feelings of a new and innocent arrival on first 
 
 ' ( 
 
 11 
 It 
 
 
48 
 
 catchiuf,' a glimpse of tho magnilicont wall of mountains which 
 divides tho North-West Territories from British Columbia. 
 
 Tho immediate iioiglihourliood of Calfj;ary is not especially 
 interesting. There are a few small farms liere and there, and 
 many cattle and horse ranches may be visited in tho course 
 of a comparatively short drive. Last year (1804), tho ellbct of 
 tho drought was very perceptible, but the energetic inhabitants 
 of Calgary intend, if possible, to make themselves independent 
 of tho rainfall, and to utilise the waters of the rivers, which 
 descend at a rapid rate from tho Itocky Mountains, for tho 
 purpose of irrigating the district. 
 
 Hardly anyone will go to Calgary now without making the 
 trip to Edmonton on the north, and to Fort McLeod on tho 
 south. The distance from Calgary to Edmonton is about 190 
 miles, and the trains run three times a week. There is compara- 
 tively little settlement for tho lirst 40 or 50 miles, tlie interme- 
 diate country being considered at present only suitable for sheep 
 ranching. As soon, however, as we approach Olds, tho country 
 begins to improve — the grass is greener, tho soil appears to be 
 more fertile, there is more wood and more water ; and the same 
 remarks apply to the country thonco to Edmonton. When wo 
 made our trip we travelled oti the same train Avith the Hon. 
 Wilfrid Laurier, the leader of the Liberal party in Canada, 
 who, with a number of friends, was travelling through tho 
 country addressing his sui)porters in difTerent places. Of 
 course there were tho usual deputations at all tho stations, and 
 a certain amount of speech-making. Whether it was in honour of 
 Mr. Laurier, or whether to show to people generally the attrac- 
 tions of the country, is not certain, but all the station buildings 
 were converted for tho time being into miniature agricultural 
 shows, and no one could wish to see better samples of wheat, 
 oats, barley and vegetables than those which decorated the rail- 
 way offices. The movements of Mr. Laurier attracted a good 
 many farmers to the diflerent stations, and we therefore had an 
 opportunity of talking with them, of learning their experiences 
 and their views of the country. Wo hardly came across any 
 grumblers. Everyone appeared to be satisfied with the 
 country, .and with the year's experiences, and looked forward 
 with much cheerfulness to his future prospects. 
 
 The country between Calgary and Edmonton has only been 
 opened up within the last two or three years, and in that time 
 

 ill' 
 
 49 
 
 there has been a large inrush of people. Many settlers are 
 from the Old Country, and the names of such places as Olds, 
 Inr.isfail, Red Deor, and Wetaskiwin will bo familiar in many 
 parts of the United Kingdom. The great feature, however, of 
 the immigration into this district has been the large number of 
 persons from the United States who have settled there. 
 Hundreds of delegations have visited the country in the last 
 year or two from different parts of the States, and in almost 
 every case the result has been the immigration of numbers of 
 American farmers, on the strength of the reports they received 
 from their representatives. No better tribute could be paid to 
 the excellence of the country than this immigration. 
 
 We left the train at Wetaskiwin with the view of driving 
 thence to Edmonton, a distance of about 40 miles. We spent the 
 evening in driving round the neighbourhood of Wetaskiwin, 
 which is fairly well settled, and bids fair to become a populous 
 and prosperous district. The town consists of a few stores ; the 
 hotel is not quite so comfortable or palatial as the Metropole 
 or Victoria, but at the same time it was perfectly clean, and 
 our host and hostess did everything they could to make us 
 comfortable for the night. Wc had an experience on this 
 occasion of the manner in which the North-Westers spend 
 their long winter evenings. After supper, several of the young 
 men of the future "city" came in with their musical instru- 
 ments, and discoursed more or less sweet music for the next 
 two or three hours — not only instrumental, but vocal, and one 
 or two of the men gave some excellent specimens of step, 
 dancing. 
 
 ii 
 
 h 
 
 
 m 
 
 XV. 
 
 Edmonton. 
 
 Next morning early our four-horse team was ready, and we- 
 started off on our drive from Wetaskiwin to Edmonton. The 
 country is very much of the same character as that we passed 
 through the day before, but not so well settled. Still, we 
 were never out of sight of houses, and we met several immi- 
 
r.o 
 
 {grants, with thtir wuggoiis and outfit, prospecting for land. 
 There are many rivers and lukeH ou the way, and any amount 
 of Bport can be (obtained by those who wiwh for it, and ahnost 
 everyl)0'Jy does, as ducka, chickens, and rabbits are aj^reeable 
 varieties in the way of food to bacon and pork and canned 
 meats. Wo stopped at midday to rest our horses, and to liavo 
 luncli, but the place had better, perhaps, not be named, for 
 reas'jns which will be understood after an interview which we had 
 with a settler is recounted. While the horses were having a reht 
 we wandered off along the whore of a neighbouring lake to see if we 
 could get a few ducks. In the course of our wanderings through 
 the bush (the land in the neighbourhood of the place is well 
 timbered) we mot a settler on his way to a well for water. He 
 appeared to be a gentlemanly young fellow, and stated Hubse- 
 quently that his case was like a number of others. He was of 
 go(jd family, but, when his father died, the money left was not 
 sufhcient to keep the family going, and they all had to turn out 
 and do for themselves. This young man had made his way to 
 the North- West ; and we went to look over his domain. The 
 liouse he had put up hiuiHclf. It was small, and fairly clean for 
 bachelor (piarters, but ho told us ho was beginning to feel the 
 loneliness of his life. His farm gave one the impression that ho 
 thought rather more of his loneliness than of work, for only a 
 few acres were under cultivation. We had to part, however, at 
 last, and, after having said good-bye two or three times, which 
 rather gave one the impression that he had not said all that 
 he wanted to say, as we were strolling leisurely down the 
 hill he burat out with someth ig of this kind : — "I say, 
 when you get back to England, 1 wish you would do me a good 
 turn. If you hear of any lady who is tired of single blessed" 
 ness, and would like to come out here, 1 wish you would put mo 
 in communication with her. I am not particular about ago 
 or about looks, and more important than cither would bo the 
 possession of a little money." 
 
 Early in the afternoon wo arrived at South Edmonton, so 
 named because it is on the south side of the river Saskatchewan. 
 This is comparatively a new place, and must not be confounded 
 with the old Edmonton, which is on the north side of the river. 
 The Saskatchewan at this place is about 250 feet below the level 
 of the road, and the cliffs are rather precipitous. Consequently, 
 the descent in a four-in-hand, especially after the weather has 
 
51 
 
 mr 
 
 ;on, 80 
 
 liccn at all wet, ia ((uite a iierformanco in its way, only 
 C(]Ui'illcd by thu aacoiit on thu other side, after having ferried 
 ncrois the rapid stream. H<jwever, wo managed the trip in 
 Bafety ; hut several times in the course of our l<»ng drives wo felt 
 that the places through which we went in a four liorse team 
 would liave startled many nuimbers <;f tlio Four-in-liand i^r 
 Coachit)g Clubs. ]']dm(jnton was formerly a Hudson Jiay Post, 
 but for many yearH has been an important settlement, nutwith- 
 atanding its distance from the main line of the Canadian Pacific 
 Jiailway. In the hut few years, especially since it has had rail- 
 way conjmunicati(jn, it has developed immensely, and bids fair to 
 become an imjiortant place. 'J'here is consideral>le rivalry 
 between it and South JvJmonton, and no doubt the difiiculty of 
 crossing the river may prove an advantage to the latter place. 
 It is not surprising, theref(<re, tliat Edmonton is moving heaven 
 and earth to get a bridge across the river, and possibly this may 
 bo arranged in time, although there are engineering diHiculties 
 in the way. 
 
 The Edmonton district is admirably adapted f(;r general agri- 
 culture and dairying, with g(jod soil, a fine climate, and a prospect 
 of fair markets, esi)ecially in liiitish Columbia. It has the advan- 
 tage alsfj of i)]enty of coal, which croj.s out on the river banks (juite 
 near the town, is easily mined, and is sold at a very low price. 
 Then gold is found on the bars or benches on the river bottom, 
 and the industry is followed by a good many men, yielding 
 from )^2 to Iflb per day or more. Tho town is really a lively 
 sort of place, considering everything. The shops or stores aro 
 good of their kind and numeious, and they seem to do a fair 
 business. The sheets are wide, and the roads are all right in 
 fine weather. Most of the buildings are of wood, but they look 
 fairly substantial, and there are many very pretty residences in 
 the neighbourhood. Wo were fortunate in meeting Inspector 
 Snyder, of the North-West Mounted Police. We learnt a great 
 deal about the neighbouring country from him, and were 
 enabled through his courtesy and assistance to .see very much 
 more of it than would otherwise have been possible. In fact, 
 wo spent three or four days very pleasantly in driving north, 
 east, and west of the town, interviewing farmers, and seeing 
 the country and its jiosaibilities. But a description of these 
 days may be left for a further letter. 
 
 ii 
 
 d2 
 
52 
 
 XVI. 
 
 The Edmonton Dlstrict, 
 
 The country in the neighbourhood of Edmonton, within a 
 radius of 30 or 40 miles from the town, has become fairly well 
 settled within the last three or four years, the result, of 
 course, of the extension of railway facilities. On the day 
 after our arrival at Edmonton we drove out about 25 miles, 
 through St. Albert, going by the Western road and returning 
 by the Eastern road, which gave us an opportunity of travelling 
 over an extensive area of the prairie. St. Albert is about 
 10 miles from Edmonton, and quite a llourishing little settle- 
 ment exists there, having grown up about the conventual 
 establishment and schools which are attached to the Palace of 
 the local Roman Catholic prelate. Bishop Grandin, a man 
 known and respected throughout the North -West Territories. 
 It was surprising to us to see how the country had settled 
 up in such a comparatively short time, and not easy to 
 believe that the comfortable-looking farms, excellent fences, 
 and comparatively well-used trails, had all sprung into existence 
 since 1890. In fact, the district looks much older than many 
 parts of Manitoba, and even of Ontario, that have long had the 
 benefit of railway communication. 
 
 The drive from Edmonton through St. Albert took us in a 
 north-westerly direction, but on the following day we went 
 almost due north, our particular object being to visit the Indian 
 Reserve at Stoney Plain — a d:ive out and home of about 
 80 miles. On this road there is not so much settlement, owing 
 partly to a large stretch of the country being reserved for the 
 Indians. For a few miles, however, out of Edmonton, and 
 until we reached the boundary of the Reserve, settlers' houses 
 were frequently visible, patches of ploughed land were crossed, 
 and cattle and horses and other evidences of the settler were 
 seen. On our arrival at the Reserve we were hospitably 
 welcomed by the resident Agent, Mr. De Gazes. The build- 
 ings of the Agency occupy a picturesque position on rather 
 high ground, by the side of a pretty lake, on which large 
 
68 
 
 "^^ 
 
 in a 
 went 
 ndian 
 about 
 owing 
 )r the 
 
 and 
 lOuses 
 ossed, 
 
 were 
 itably 
 buUd- 
 rather 
 
 large 
 
 numbers of wild fowl were disporting themselves when we 
 arrived. Although our visit was rather late in the season, and 
 the garden was not at its best, we saw enough to convince the 
 most sceptical of the fertility of the soil and the salubrity of 
 the climate. There were still some turnips and cabbages in 
 the ground, and on measuring throe of the former they were 
 found to be 24 inches, 32 inches, and 34 inches respectively ; 
 while a cabbage, which would not be cut for some weeks, had 
 a circumference at that time of 45 inches— that is, round 
 the heart alone, leaving the outside out of consideration. 
 Potatoes and onions and other roots and vegetables were large 
 in proportion and prolific in yield, and it is interesting 
 to know that all the work in the garden is done by the 
 Indians. The red men in this Agency, known as the Lapotac 
 Reserve, seem to be in a very flourishing condition : most of 
 them live in comfortable and substantial houses, which they 
 have been stimulated to erect by the tact and judgment of Ihe 
 Agent. They also do some cultivation, own quite a number 
 of cattle, horses and implements, and are practically self- 
 supporting. They are also making considerable progress from 
 an industrial point of view, and were beginning to make cloth and 
 other woollen goods — a fact very creditable to Mr. De Cazes. At 
 certain times of the year many of the band go away hunting in 
 the Northern country, and often manage to make a good deal 
 of money by the furs they sell. Altogether, the Indians seem 
 to be very happy and contented, and wo saw several of them 
 driving home from church soon after our arrival, from which it 
 will be gathered that our visit was made on a Sunday. We 
 drove back to Edmonton in the cool of the evening, and are 
 not likely soon to forget the glorious colouring that was every- 
 where to be seen. The foliage was beginning to change, and 
 showed a variety of colour ; part of the sky was of various 
 hues, from blue to violet ; while the setting sun threw a golden 
 haze over everything. The rabbits were out feeding in thou- 
 sands ; and wf also saw two or three wolves, which, however, 
 were of the prairie type — the coyote— and ran away at our 
 approach. 
 
 On the following day we visited Fort Saskatchewan, the 
 headquarters of the North-West Mounted Police in the 
 district. It is situated about 12 miles from Edmonton, on the 
 banks of the river, and, in order to see as much of the country 
 
54 
 
 as possible, on our outward journey we skirted the north bank, 
 crossing at the fort, returning by the south bank through 
 what is known as the Clover Bar district. Here again we found 
 plenty of evidences of settlement and progress, which confirmed 
 what we had seen previously in other parts of the district — 
 that is, the suitability of the Edmonton country for farming 
 operations of all kinds. We were not surprised, therefore, at 
 the enthusiasm displayed everywhere by the farmers, and were 
 also able to understand how it was that the British tenant- 
 farmer delegates who visited the country in 1893 became so 
 enamoured of this part of Alberta. 
 
 While at Edmonton we had the pleasure of a conversation 
 with Father Lacombe, one of the noble band of clergymen who 
 have passed the best parts of their lives in the North-West in 
 endeavouring to civilise the Indians and to bring the blessings 
 of religion into their lives. Father Lacombe has been in the 
 country for the last thirty or forty years, long before it was 
 transferred to the Dominion^in fact, when he tir^t went there, 
 it was the happy hunting ground of the Indian, and both small 
 and large t'^ame were plentiful, the buffaloes roaming over the 
 prairies at that time in millions. In the early days he had 
 many adventures among the Indians, being present at several 
 battles between the different tiibes ; and, if he would, he 
 could tell many an exciting story of hairbreadtli escapes in his 
 endeavours to promote peace among them. It is to be hoped 
 that some day Father Lacombe will publish his reminiscences. 
 It would surely be a most exciting and interesting book, for he 
 probably knows more of the Red Man than anyone living His 
 influence with the Indians has long been great, and there can 
 be no doubt that the Government owe much gratitude to the 
 reverend father, for it was largely owing to his exertions that 
 the powerful tribes of the Bloods and the Blackfeet kept aloof 
 from the Riel troubles of 1885. 
 
 Our return journey by train to Calgary was comparatively 
 uneventful, but we had the opportunity of conversations with 
 many American farmers and others who had been visiting the 
 Edmonton country, with the view of making it their home later 
 on. One and all, they seemed to be pleased with what they 
 had seen, and no doubt their satisfactory reports will lead to 
 considerable accession of population in the coming spring. 
 
55 
 
 XVII. 
 
 To Fort McLeod and the Ranches. 
 
 Fort McLcod is about 105 miles from Calgary, and within 
 the last two or three years railway communication has been 
 provided between the two places. Formerly, the only way of 
 reaching McLeod was by the four-horsed stage which ran 
 periodically between the two places, or by the railway 
 from Dunmore to Lethbridge, the latter place being 
 about 30 miles from McLeod. The ride from Calgary 
 to McLeod, which takes about five hours, is a pleasant 
 one, as the Rocky Mountains are in full view all the time. For 
 the first 40 miles the country is very well settled, and the 
 small farms are all fenced, a fact which somewhat increases the 
 difficulties of travelling by road, excepting where a more or less 
 straight trail has been surveyed. The country is well watered, 
 the railway crossing rivers and creeks at every few miles, and 
 the district should be admirably adapted for dairying purposes. 
 At present, however, it is largely given up to cattle-ranching 
 and horse-raising, and those industries have assumed consider- 
 able aimensions. At one time it was believed that mixed farm- 
 ing would be possible, and that grain of all kinds could readily 
 bo raised. Experience, however, has demonstrated that irri- 
 gation will be necessary before arable farming can be carried 
 onto any extent, except in specially favoured places ; and, as 
 mentioned in the letter relating to the Calgary district, irriga- 
 tion is now the general topic of conversation in the whole of 
 Alberta. 
 
 After arriving at McLeod, and spending a few hours there 
 with friends, we started ofi" on a three days' drive, making our 
 way the first afternoon to Pincher Creek, where many important 
 ranches are located. The town itself is a very small affair, 
 consisting of two hotels, a few stores and some residences ; but 
 we had the opportunity there of meeting with several of the 
 ranchmen, and of talking ''cattle" with them for some 
 hours. The next morning we commenced a longer drive of 
 about 60 miles, with the view of visiting the Mormon settle- 
 ment at Lees Creek. On our way we called at the well-known 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 I ) 
 
56 
 
 Cochrane Ranch, and also had the opportunity of witnessing a 
 " round up." This important function takes place twice a yea^. 
 The cattle, irrespective of owners and ranches, are allowed to 
 graze in the meantime all over the prairie, but in April and 
 October they are collected in bunches, and separated by their 
 various owners, the calves being considered to belong to the 
 cows they follow. The different ranch owners and their repre- 
 sentatives camp together on these ''stock-taking" occasions, 
 and the work is very hard while it lasts, so much so that each 
 man invariably has several horses for his use. After the 
 animals are separated, the unbranded animals are branded, and 
 the cattle are all turned loose again, excepting, of course, when 
 any are "cut out for purposes of sale. It is a very inte- 
 resting sight, not to say an exciting one, to watch the 
 splendid horsemanship of the cowboys, the facility with which 
 animals are separated from the bunches, and the skill of many 
 of the men wit) the lasso. 
 
 The Cochrane Ranch is situated in a very pretty valley on 
 the Kootenay River. The buildings are substantial and com- 
 fortable, and, notwithstanding the drought, there was a good 
 supply of the famous " bunch grass " in every part of the 
 range over which we drove. So far as one could see there 
 were not many signs of ranching in the neighbourhood of the 
 buildings, but this is not surprising when we remember that 
 the range covers 100,000 acres, and that the cattle, to the 
 number of about 20,000 head, are scattered over that large area. 
 After spending an hour or two at the ranch, we continued our 
 journey to the Mormon settlement, which is called Cardston, 
 after Mr. Card, who occupies the position of chief elder in the 
 settlement. These Mormons, who number now about 800, 
 emigrated from Salt Lake City a few years ago, and were 
 permitted to settle in Canada on the distinct understanding that 
 polygamy would not be allowed. Having given the requisite 
 assurance, they selected the site of the present settlement, on 
 Lees Creek. They have formed quite a little village, and their 
 farms are situated in the country around at various distances. 
 Mr. Card was away when we arrived, but we were 
 hospitably received by Mrs. Card, and had an opportunity 
 of a lengthy conversation with several members of the settle- 
 ment. The community is certainly an ideal one in many 
 respects. Mutual co-operation generally exists, and in many 
 
57 
 
 ways the Mormons seom to be able to give "points" to the 
 followers of other religions. Their manner towards each other 
 is most respectful and considerate ; they help each other on 
 every possible occasion, and they all appear to be willing to 
 engage in general work that will be beneficial to the whole 
 settlement. For instance, they have irrigated a considerable 
 area of land, and are engaged on other similar work. A com- 
 pany is nominally formed, but no money is invested, and any- 
 one who shares in the work is entitled to participate in the 
 benefits. By means of irrigation, especially, they have trans- 
 formed a rather arid piece of country into a garden, and last 
 year they had excellent crops of all kinds of vegetable and 
 garden produce, as well as grain. They have also a sawmill, a 
 grist mill, and a cheese factory, and telephonic communication 
 with Lethbridge. The Mormons seem to be very well satisfied 
 with the country and with their progress, and further immigra- 
 tion is expected from the United States. 
 
 We started next morning on our return to McLeod, and drove 
 for most of the day through the " Blood" Indian Reserve. At 
 the Agency we had an opportunity of some conversation with the 
 Agent, and of seeing a large number of the Indians in all their 
 gorgeousness of attire, as it happened to be the day on which 
 they came in for their rations. It may be mentioned that the 
 "Blood" and "Blackfeet" tribes were formerly among the most 
 warlike of the Indians of the North-West, and that they have not 
 made so much progress in the direction of civilisation as some 
 of the Indians in other parts of the country. They still have 
 to be maintained by the Government, and do not as yet show 
 much inclination to work 'or their living. The hope, however, 
 is entertained that the rising generation will grow up imbued 
 w^ith other views, as the result of the education they are 
 receiving. 
 
 i 
 
 Hi 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 II 
 
58 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 Among the Rockies. 
 
 After leaving Fort McLeod we returned to Calgary, but 
 only remained in that town a short time, the train for Banff, 
 to which place we were bound, being timed to leave a few 
 hours after our arrival. The Rocky Mountains commence 
 about sixty miles from Calgary, but the greater part of the 
 intervening country is known as the "Foot Hills," a range of 
 low hills which extend north and south of Calgary for a con- 
 siderable distance. They are covered in many parts with 
 excellent grass, and there is also a considerable quantity of 
 timber of various sizes. The Foot Hills, from the excellent 
 pasturage they afford, as well as shelter, are favourite sites for 
 ranches, and large numbers of cattle and sheep may be seen 
 grazing as the train passes through the district. 
 
 The Rocky Mountains are actually entered at Kananaskis, 
 and what is known as the Gap is situated eight miles further 
 westward. It will be seen, from what has been said, that the 
 approach to the mountains from Calgary is gradual. In the 
 first place, for a short distance there is the level prairie, 
 although it is at a considerable altitude, then come the Foot 
 Hills, and finally the "sea of mountains" themselves. For a 
 considerable distance the railway follows the valley of the Bow 
 River, and mountains are to be seen on every side — several 
 snow-capped monsters being continually in view. The distance 
 from Kananaskis to Banff is less thon thirty miles, but the 
 scenery for the whole distance is of wonderful grandeur. The 
 train is timed to pass over this part of the route at dawn, and 
 its entry into the mountains is frequently accompanied by the 
 most brilliant sunrise effects, which are nowhere to be seen to 
 greater advantage than amongst the peaks of the Rocky 
 Mountains. 
 
 After leaving the Gap, and passing amidst the grand scenery 
 for ten or fifteen miles, the train reaches Canmore and Anthra- 
 cite, which are not only remarkable for the splendour of the 
 surrounding scenery, but as being the site of several coal mines, 
 which have received much attention in recent years. An 
 
 
59 
 
 e 
 n 
 
 immense quantity of coal of many kinds, from the ordinary 
 bituminous variety to anthracite, is found. These mines are 
 destined to play an important part in the future of Canada, 
 particularly in that portion of it on the Pacific coast. So far as 
 at present known, there are no other anthracite minus west of 
 Pennsylvania, and it is evident, therefore, that in the future, if 
 not in the immediate present, there will be a great demand for 
 the coal, both for shipping purposes at Vancouver and Victoria, 
 as well as in the cities on the Pacific Slope of the United States. 
 Five miles further on from Anthracite, Banff is reached. 
 That place has become very well known in most parts of the 
 world from the wonderful medicinal sulphur spri^'^s found 
 there, and on account of an excellent hotel which has been 
 erected by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company. It is 
 rather surprising to find in the middle of the Rocky Mountains 
 a large and splendid hotel with all the conveniences and 
 ccv.v forts of those in the largest of cities. The village is about 
 a miie from the station, and is prettily situated on the bank 
 of the Bow River near its junction with the Spray. In addi- 
 tion to the Canadian Pacific Railway Hotel there is a Sana- 
 torium, to which is also attached an hotel, both being carried 
 on under the supervision of Dr. Brett, a well-known medical 
 practitioner who resides permanently in Banff. The curative 
 qualities of the hot springs, the temperature of which 
 ranges from 90 degs. to considerably over 100 degs., have 
 attracted invalids from many parts of the world, and some 
 wonderful cures have been effected. In addition to the 
 baths which are to be found 1,000 feet or more above 
 the valley, on the side of Sulphur Mountain, and in 
 those attached to the hotels in the valley (the water being 
 conveyed thence by pipes), there are two other bathing 
 places supplied by springs near the river. One is known 
 as "The Basin," which is quite open, and yet in a measure 
 secluded; and the other as "The Cave." In the latter, the 
 entrance was formerly through a hole in the top, but now an 
 opening has been tunneled in the side, which is naturally more 
 convenient. The whole of the village is situated in what is 
 known as the Rocky Mountain Park, an area of about 26 miles 
 long by 10 miles wide, which has been reserved by the Dominion 
 Government as a National Domain. The baths at the Basin 
 and at the Cave are under Government supervision. Since 
 
 NtJ 
 
 
 i 
 
 
60 
 
 the park was established a considerable sum of money has been 
 expended in cutting roads through it, which was necessary 
 in order to make its beauties accessible. At the present 
 time there is a very good road to the Devil's Lake — or 
 Lake Minnewanka, to use the more euphonious Indian name-- 
 which is situated about nine miles from Banff. The road 
 passes throuf^h some very pretty scenery, and no one visits 
 Banfi without making the drive. Roads have also beeii made 
 in the valley along the Bow River for some distance. Tnere is 
 also a road up to the top of Tunnel Mountain, from which 
 magnificent views are obtained, and a road is in course of con- 
 struction along the banks of the River Spray through a dense 
 forest of pine trees. This latter road, when completed, will bo 
 nine miles in length, and through country of singular beauty. 
 In addition to the roads that have been cut for carriage parties, 
 innumerable bridle-paths have been made, and Mr. Stewart, 
 the Ranger, is to be congratulated on his work. Banff seems 
 to lie in a hollow completely surrounded by mountains, the 
 only break apparently being that made by the Bow River, and 
 the view down the valley, with the Peecheo range in the 
 distance, is one which will not readily be forgotten by those 
 who have seen it. Among the mountains which are visible 
 from the vicinity are the Cascade Mountain, Mount Inglis- 
 maldie, the Fairholme Range, Squaw Mountain, Sulphur 
 Mountain, Rundlo Peak, and Tunnel Mountain. Most of 
 them range from 8,000 to 10,000 feet high, but in this connec- 
 tion it must be remembered that Banff itself lies at an altitude 
 of 4,500 feet. 
 
 The Canadian Pacific Hotel is only open from May to 
 October, but in those months it is generally crowded with 
 guests. The air is the purest of the pure, the scenery magnifi- 
 cent, and, as will be readily understood, there are splendid 
 walks, rides, and drives, in the neighbourhood. As regards the 
 drives, if anyone is fortunate enough to make the acquaintance 
 of Major Harper, who commands the police force at Banff, he 
 will meet probably one of the finest whips on the conti- 
 nent. To go up and down the Tunnel Mountain in Major 
 Harper's four-in-hand wagon is ' ,i adventure not to be 
 forgotten. In many places the road turns like a corkscrew, and 
 the gradients are very steep. The road is cut out of the 
 solid rock, and on one side of it is always a steep precipice. 
 
61 
 
 Major Harper thinks nothing of going down the mountain at 
 full speed, and the experience is enough to make one's hair 
 stand on end. Still, it is impossible to sit beside Major Harper 
 •without feeling the utmost confidence in him, and it is hardly 
 necessary to say that he always looks over the harness very 
 carefully himself before he starts. 
 
 XIX. 
 
 The Rockies and the Selkikks. 
 
 After a short stay at Banff we took the train again for the 
 West, fully prepared to enjoy the magnificent scenery through 
 which we were to pass on our way to the Pacific Coast— a 
 distance of about 500 miles. Any attempt to describe the 
 panorama, with its ever-changing view of valley and mountain, 
 must appear ridiculous to any persons who have had an oppor- 
 tunity of making the journey. It is truly a sight that must be 
 seen to be appreciated or understood. The "Annotated Time 
 Table" issued by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, which 
 contains descriptive notes of the country through which the 
 line passes, is of much use to passengers, and is generally 
 read a little in advance, as a preparation for the wonderful 
 sights that continually unfold themselves. In many parts of 
 that pamphlet the scenery is described in terms which at first 
 appear to be exaggerated, and are therefore sometimes held up 
 to ridicule on the cars, but in the end the verdict always is that 
 the language, no matter how glowing it may be, is totally 
 insuflicieut to convey to the mind any adequate idea of the 
 beauty or grandeur of the scenery. 
 
 After leaving Banff, the line gradually ascends until the 
 summit is reached. The summit is named "Stephen," after 
 the first president of the company, and its altitude is 700 feet 
 higher than Banff. One becomes in a sense bewildered in 
 gazing at the various snowy promontories, and the magnificent 
 ranges that appear in every direction. At Laggan, about seven 
 miles this side of the summit, the first view of the great glaciers 
 
 1 
 
 M' 
 
 ! : 
 •■ i II 
 
 1 ! 
 
 
G2 
 
 is obtained. Laggaii is a favourite place for a short stay. 
 Within easy reach of the station, high up in the mountains, 
 there are Lake Louise and the Mirror Lakes, one above the 
 other. The ascent has been made con.paratively easy by the 
 thoughtfulness of the railway company ; the lakes are said to 
 be marvels of beauty, and the pictures reflected upon their 
 broad water.s are, in certain states of the atmosphere, of tlie 
 most beautiful description. It is a very favourite place for 
 artists, and it is the opinion of the President of the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway Company that these lakes are among the most 
 beautiful and picturesque scenery along the line. On leaving 
 Banff it was our intention to see them for ourselves, but the 
 fates were not propitious, a snowstorm interfering with our 
 good intentions. 
 
 Everyone has heard of the famous Kickinghorse Pass, down 
 which the railway descends after leaving the summit. In the 
 course of 10 miles, between Stephen and Field, the level of the 
 line falls nearly l,.*iOO feet. The following is a quotation from 
 the descriptive notes before referred to, issued by the railway 
 company, and it can truly be said that its description of the 
 part of the road in question is in no sense exaggerated : — 
 
 " The scenery is now sublime and almost terrible. The line 
 clings to the mountain side at the Itft, and the valley on the 
 right deepens until the river is seen as a gleaming thread a 
 thousand feet below. Looking to the right, one of the grandest 
 mountain valleys in the world stretches away to the north, with 
 great white glacier-bound peaks on either side. Looking ahead, 
 the dark familiar peak of Mount Field is seen. On the left the 
 Duomo-like head of Mount Stephen, and spires of Cathedral 
 Mountain still further to the left occasionally appear over the 
 tree tops. Near the head of Mount Stephen is a ridge, and on 
 its shoulder almost overhead is seen a shining green glacier, 
 800 feet in thickness, which is slowly pressing forward and over 
 a vertical cliff of a great height." 
 
 At Field there is one of the pretty chalet-like hotels which 
 are to be found at intervals along the road, and a day or two 
 may be passed pleasantly enough there, amid the solitude 
 of the mountains and the grand scenery with which the valley 
 is surrounded. From Field the line ascends again for a short 
 distance, but so'^n commences the descent of what is called the 
 Lower Kickinghorse Valley, down which, to use the words of 
 
63 
 
 the book before referred to, "the river disputes the passage 
 with the railway. The canon rapidly deepens until, beyond 
 Palliscr, the mountain sides become vertical, rising straight up 
 thousands of feet, and within an easy stone's throw from wall 
 to wall. Down this vast chasm go the river and the railway 
 together, the former crossing from side to side to ridges cut out 
 of the solid rock, and twisting and turning in every direction, 
 and every minute or two plunging through the projecting angles 
 of the rock, which seem to close the way. With the towering 
 cliffs almost shutting out the sunlight, and the roar of the river 
 and the trfvin increased a hundredfold by the echoing walls, the 
 passage of this terrible gorge will never bo forgotten." 
 
 The lowest point of the descent of the western slope of the 
 Rockies is reached at Beavermouth, the altitude of which is 
 2,500 feet, and for some little distance the train traverses the 
 valley between the Rockies and the Selkirks. It is not long, 
 however, before the train again begins its climb. The Beaver 
 River is soon left, and in the course of a few miles the track 
 reaches to an altitude of 1,000 feet above the valley, the roadway 
 being on a ridge cut out of the side of the mountain. The prin- 
 cipal difficulty in the construction of this part of the road was 
 occasioned by the torrents, many of them splendid cascades, which 
 rush down through narrow gorges cut deeply into the steep slopes 
 along which the railway creeps. The bridges which cross these 
 torrents are apt to make the traveller giddy to look over, and 
 one of them deserves special mention — that over Stony Creek, 
 which is 295 feet above the level of the creek. During this part 
 of our journey we were not, in some respects, fortunate as 
 regards the weather. In the absence of sunshine we had mists 
 and heavy rain and snow, but these served to increase the 
 volume of the cascades and mountain torrents, and gave a weird- 
 ness and a grandeur to the scene which would not be obtained 
 even in brilliant sunshine. The Valley of the Beaver is four or 
 five miles wide, and the river winds in and out among the forest 
 which ranges far up the sides of the mountain. It would be a 
 magnificent site for a national park, even rivalling that at Banfi* ; 
 but the beauty of the scene has been somewhat marred by the 
 eflFects of the forest fires, which, since the advent of the 
 railway, periodically devastate the country. How they arise it 
 is difficult to say. Sometimes they are started by the camp fires 
 of hunters and trappers. At other times the undergrowth is set 
 
 !t 
 
 ! 
 
 !i 
 
C4 
 
 on fire, poBaibly by Hparks from the en^inoH, and fires have boon 
 known to coinmenco by the concentration of tlio aun'a rays 
 through ])iucoH of botthis and glass that have been left about. 
 It would naturally bo expected that in a country like thiw there 
 would be considerable danger from avalanches and snow slides, 
 but these have leen guarded against in the most perfect manner 
 by the railway engineers, and massive snow sheds, which, as 
 built, arc almost as solid as tunnels, are seen at froquc t 
 intervals. At every few hundred yards, also, there seem 
 to be men continually on the watch, and one cannot help 
 aftpreciating, in making this journey, that every precaution 
 is taken to prevent accidents. That the measures are effectual 
 is evident from the fact that the through trains are very 
 rarely delayed, even in the worst weather— a thing which 
 cannot be said of the trans-continental linos that have been 
 constructed south of the boundary line. To (juoto again from 
 the railway guide book of this y)art of the journey : — ** Beyond 
 Stony Creek Bridge the gorge of Bear Creek is compressed into 
 a vast ravine between Mount McDonald on the left and the 
 Hermit on the right, forming a narrow portal to the amphi- 
 the vtre of Rogers l*a8s at the summit of tlio Selkirks. The way 
 is V)etween enormous precipices. Mount McDonald towers a 
 mile and a (juarter above the railway in almost vertical height. 
 Its base is but a stone's throw diHtance, and it is so sheer, so 
 bare and stupendous, and yet so near, that one is overav/ed by 
 a sense of immensity and mighty grandeur. Tins is the climax 
 of mountain scenery. In passing before the face of this gigantic 
 precipice the line clings to the base of Ilermit Mountain, 
 and, as the station at RogerH Pass is neared, its clustered 
 spires appear facing those of Mount McDonald, and nearly as 
 high. These two matchless mountains were once apparently 
 united, but some great convulsion of nature has split them 
 asunder, leaving hardly room for the railway." 
 
 The roadway at the summit of the Selkirks is at an altitudo 
 of 4,300 feet, and two miles further the Glacier House is 
 approached. It is near Mount Sir Donald, named after Sir 
 Donald A. Smith, one of the chief promoters of the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway. This is the site of another of the railway 
 hotels at which the train stops for Uieals, and it is also a 
 favourite resting-place for tourists who desire to spend a little 
 time among the mountains. The great glacier is only a mile 
 
05 
 
 and a half fruin tho Hiatujn, and a few hundred feet abovo iho 
 levol of thu hotel, and in ((uito acccBBible. It in naid to bo 
 larger than all tho ^laciora in tho Aipa tof^ethor, and on a clear 
 day tho Hight in morit iniproHsivo. Continiiinj^ tho descent from 
 tho Glacier House, tho railway passes out of the valley over a 
 loop which winds in and out and round a))out, until at length 
 four tracks of tho railway may l)o seen .,no above tho other. 
 The descent still continues until Jiovelstoko is reached a 
 mining tf)wn on tho banks of the Columl>ia Itivor. It is 
 important as a divisional point of tho ra:..w;iy, and alsf) as the 
 •topping phico for th(Jso who wish to visit tho Kootenay and 
 Nelson country, tho inniionse mineral wealth of which is being 
 gradually exph»ited. 
 
 XX. 
 
 Thk Ok an agon Valley. 
 
 We aj^'ain broke our trana-continental journey at Sicamons — 
 or " 8toj)ped-ovcr," as they say there — with tho view of spending 
 a short time in the ()kanai,'on country. Tho morning after our 
 arrival wo took tho train to Vernon, a journey of two or three 
 hours, passing through a beautiful valley, full of comfortable, 
 well-cultivated, and ajjparently well-stocked farms, Vern(jn is 
 a pretty little place, in a very nice situation, and sujiplies tho 
 mining regions to tho south. It sefcmed to bo very quiet at 
 the time of our visit, and there was little or nothing doing ; 
 but, if tho minerals prove to be as rich as many people antici- 
 pate, it will make a wonderful diflerenco to tiiis district. A 
 short distance from \'ernon is tho property purchased by 
 Lord Aberdeen, and known as the Coldstream ranche. It 
 consists o^ about 10,000 or 11,000 acres, and is managed by 
 a Mr. Kelly, who seems to bo a capable and energetic man. 
 Neither tho house nor tho buildings are very pretentious, but 
 they are comfortable and suitable for tho purpose for which 
 they are intended. Comparatively little of the ranche is under 
 cultivation, but experiments are being made with all kinds of 
 
 
 ! 
 
 I 
 
66 
 
 fruitd and vogetablcH, and there is no question whatever 
 us to tho suitability of the soil, of tho cliniato, and of 
 tlie location for producinj,' all tho small fruits of temperate 
 climates at their best, both as regards si/o and <iuality. 
 Apples, pears, and pluma were shown to us of marvellous 
 size considering tho short time in which the trees 
 had been planted. Wo wore, of course, too late for tho 
 strawberries, raspi)errios and currants, but were told that they 
 yielded abundantly, and tliat a ready market was found for 
 them, at good paying prices, as far oast as Calgary and as far 
 west as Vancouver. It is imlikely that much fruit will be 
 grown for some time on tho prairies- at any rate, until varieties 
 are discovered which will stand tho rigour of tho climate. So 
 far, although oxperimonts have boon made with that object, 
 they can hardly bo considered as satisfactory. This leads up 
 to the conclusion that there will always be a splendid market 
 for British Columbian fruits of all kinds, not only in the 
 Province itself, but on the prairies between Winnipeg and tho 
 Rockies, a stretch of country over 800 miles long and about 
 200 miles deep. Lord Aberdeen has spent a good deal of money 
 on the estate, with a view to encourage his neighbours, and to show 
 them what may bo done, and he has also erected a jam factory at 
 Vernon, but this has not been utilised to any extent up to the 
 present time, all the fruit that is grown being sold in its fresh 
 condition at much higher prices than could be paid if jam 
 manufacture is to bo made remunerative. In addition to fruit- 
 raising, considerable attention is being devoted to cattle-breeding 
 and fattening, and also to sheep. Horse-breeding has also been 
 taken up, and all these branches of agriculture ought to be profit- 
 able if fair prices can bo obtained. The Coldstream ranch© might 
 almost be called an experimental farm, from the variety of work 
 that is carried on there, for, besides what has already been stated, 
 there are at present about five acres under hops, and the area is 
 to be considerably increased if tho venture turns out profitably. 
 Prices a year ago yielded a handsome profit, but this year, 
 from one cause or another, hops are being sold on the London 
 market, and even locally, at prices little, if anything, in excess 
 of the expense of cultivation. Hop-growing promises to 
 become a very important industry in British Columbia. Both 
 tho climate and soil are held by experts to bo suitable for it, 
 and experiments are being made, not only in the Vernap 
 
67 
 
 district, but in tho ncighhoiiiliood of Af^assi/, in tho Nicola 
 valley, and in many otlior pliiccs between there and tho coast, 
 and also in Vancouver iHland. Some HanipleH which came over 
 in 1HJ)3 attracted very much attention on the London market, 
 both from their colour and the way in which tiiey were cured, 
 and it was stated on the best authority that larj^e ((uantities of 
 hops ci^ual to tho.se samples could readily have been disposed of 
 at the top market prices. But, as already mentioned, this 
 year, while tho crop was j^ood and tho sn'nples equal to those 
 of previous years, pric<i8 have fallen away considerably, and tho 
 hop-growers are not so cheerful as tiiey were. Still, however, 
 prices vary very much, and it is calculated that one really good 
 year in two or three would yield handsome returns f(jr tho 
 capitivl invested. 
 
 After spending a very ()hjaBant time in this charming district 
 we returned to Hicamous, and again took tho train for tho 
 West. In a short time Kandoops was reached-tho principal 
 town in tho Thompson Iliver Valley, along which tho railway 
 passes for a considerable distance ; in fact, until Lytton is 
 approached. The country is fairly well settled in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the river, and in the broad valleys that are frc- 
 buently crossed. The principal industry in tho Kandoops 
 district will always be ranching, owing to the excellence of tho 
 pasture land, but an endeavour is being made to provide for 
 irrigation in places where water is not at present abundant ; 
 and if this can be accomplished tho possibilities in tho 
 way of fruit-growing and general farming will bo greatly 
 increased. Tho scenery along many parts of the Thompson 
 is particularly grand, and the "Thompson Iliver canons" 
 comprise some of tho most pictures(|ue scenery alf)ng tho rail- 
 way. As tho train passes along the clifls above the river the 
 old wagon road is seen at intervals, first on one side of tho 
 river and then on tho other, apparently supported in many 
 places, many hundreds of feet above the river, on what 
 seem to l)e slender stii ;8 pinned to tho face of gigantic 
 precipices. Tho road crosses tho river at Spence'a Bridge, 
 and is tho only route to the Cariboo country ; but the 
 point of departure is now Ashcroft. At Spence's Bridge 
 the scenery is striking and peculiar, and the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway book, to which reference has before been made, 
 thus describes the coup d^ceil : — " The train runs upon a sinuouB 
 
 e2 
 
68 
 
 ledge cut out of the bare hills on tlio irregular south 
 side of the stream, where the headlands are penetrated by 
 tunnels, and the ravines spanned by lofty bridges ; and the 
 Thompson, in the purity of a trout brook, whirls down its wind- 
 ing torrent path as green as an emerald. Sometimes the banks 
 are rounded cream-white slopes ; next, cliffs of richest yellow, 
 streaked and dashed with maroon, jut out ; then masses of 
 solid rust-red earth, suddenly followed by an olive-green grass 
 slope or some white exposure. With this fantastic colouring, 
 to which the brilliant emerald river opposes a striking contrast, 
 and over which bends a sky of deepest violet, there is the 
 additional interest of great height and breadth of prospect, 
 and a constantly changing grotesqueness of form, caused by 
 the wearing down of rocks of unequal hardness, by water and 
 wind, into towers and monuments, goblins and griffins. The 
 strange forms and gaudy hues of the rocks and scantily-herbaged 
 terraces, impress themselves most strongly on the memory." 
 
 XXI. 
 
 Still a:monu the Mountains. 
 
 fi 
 
 f 
 
 Some mention has been made of the wonderful cailons of 
 the Thompson River, along which the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
 road passes. The junction of the Thompson Riv(r with the 
 Fraser is about 150 miles from Vancouver. The scenery 
 along the Fraser is very much the same as that of the 
 Thompson. There are similar canons ; the river is here and 
 there narrowed by rocky formations and becomes a torrent, 
 and at other times is a broad placid stream. From the train, at 
 the proper season of the year, the Indians can be seen at their 
 fishing operations on the banks of the river ; and the Heathen 
 Chinee may also be observed gold-washing in a very primitive 
 manner. At North Bend, about 115 miles from Vancouver, 
 there is another of the railway hotels at which the eastward 
 and westward -bound trains stop for about twenty minutes to 
 enable the passengers to refresh the inner man or inner woman, 
 aiB the case may be. The scenery in the neighbourhood of North 
 
■ 
 
 I: 
 
 69 
 
 I 
 
 Bend is of a particularly attractive nature, and in the summer 
 time the hotel, which is very comfortable, is more or less 
 crowded. In fact, the scenery between North Bend and Yale 
 is described as matchless, and as not only interesting but 
 startling. The great river, as our friend, the C.P.R. Note- 
 book, states, "is forced between vertical walls of black rocks, 
 where, repeatedly thrown back upon itself by cliffs, or broken 
 by ponderous masses of rocks, it madly foams and roars. The 
 railway is cut into the cliffs 200 feet or more above, and the 
 jutt' ■» spurs of rock are pierced by tunnels in close succes- 
 sion. 
 
 From Yale to Vancouver the scenery becomes rather less 
 grand, and there is a greater area of land available for agricul- 
 tural purposes than exists in the more eastward parts of the 
 province. A good deal of the land is very little above the 
 river level, and dyking, at considerable expense, has been neces- 
 sary. In many cases, however, the embankments were not 
 made high enough, and the floods of last ^^ear, which were 
 exceptionally high, gave the farmers and thv. owners of these 
 lands a good deal of trouble, and caused much expense. 
 Although the experience was a sad one. it has given a lesson 
 which will not be forgotten. The meadow or bottom land, in 
 the immense valleys through which the Fraser runs in the 
 latter part of its career, is rather expensive, anu the prices 
 range anywhere from 50 to 100 and 200 dollars per acre. It is, 
 however, exceptionally fertile, and grows immense crops, and 
 it is stated that on 40 acres of land in these favoured positions 
 as much produce can be raised as on five times the area of land 
 elsewhere. Besides, it must be remembered that if land is 
 dear, the prices of produce are relatively higher than in many 
 other parts of Canada, and thai all the most profitable crops 
 can be 'aised, as the conseciuence of the magnificent climate 
 with which British Columbia is endowed. 
 
 The Dominion Government, in its paternal supervision of the 
 interests of the agricultural community, has established an 
 experimental farm at Agassiz, about 70 miles from the coast. 
 It includes about 1,000 acres of land of all varieties, from 
 sandy loam to heavy clay land, and not only bottom, but moun- 
 tain land. It is a beautiful place, the valley being sur- 
 rounded by mountains ; and in the evening, and especially by 
 moonlight, the sight is one to remember. The energetic 
 
 I 
 
 14 
 
70 
 
 superintendent, Mr. Sharp, has done wonders in the short time 
 that the farm has been under his charge. Most of the experi- 
 ments so far have been in connection with the raising of fruit 
 of all kinds and roots, and they have been singularly successful. 
 The small fruits grow in abundance, and there is no doubt a great 
 future before tha'c industry. Apples and pears are also grown 
 in great profusion and of immense size, and it may truly be 
 said that the largest apples we ever saw were raised in British 
 Columbia from comparatively young trees. It will not be long 
 before British Columbia apples make their appearance on 
 the British market if prices are high enough to stand the cost 
 of transport. In any case, however, they have an excellent 
 market near home and on the prairies. Mr. Sharp has also 
 experimented in arboriculture '>ti the mountain sides, and he 
 is very proud of the results. Anyone contemplating settlement 
 in British Columbia cannot do better than spend a day at 
 Agassiz, talk over his proposals with Mr. Sharp, and obtain the 
 benefit of his advice and experience, which extends not only 
 to Canada, but to Scotland, wliere he was farming l)efore he 
 emigrated. 
 
 A drive of 4 or 5 miles through the primeval forest, and, it 
 must be confessed, over a very rough road, will take the visitor 
 to Harrison Lake, which in the near future is bound to become 
 a popular place of resort. There is a very good hotel, the 
 scenery is magnificent, and the variety of colouring in the 
 waters of the lake from the reflection of the surrounding scenery 
 cannot well be exaggerated. In addition, however, to its 
 attractions to pleasure seekers, in the way of Ashing, boating, 
 and sluioting, there is a medicinal spring which comes out 
 of the side of the mountain at a temperature high enough 
 to boil an egg. The water is beneficial not only for bathing, 
 but for drinking, in certain complaints, and the baths attract 
 a great many people. It is a very curious thing that 
 within a few feet of the waters of the lake, which are icy 
 cold, consisting chiefly of snow water, there should bo a hot 
 medicinal spring of the nature that has been mentioned. On 
 the way back from Harrison Spring to Agassi/, there happened 
 the only contretemps of our journey ; the horses shied and 
 bolted, which was no jr' o over a rough road of the kind ; and 
 there was Boon a spill, which might have been serious, but which 
 only resulted in a little damage to the oonveyance. 
 
71 
 
 i\ 
 
 s'll 
 
 XXII. 
 
 Vancouveh, Victoria, and New Westminster. 
 
 We have now almost finished the journey from the Atlantic 
 to the Pacific, and little remains to be done but to give some 
 idea of the three leading cities of the Pacific Province, viz. 
 New Westminster, Vancouver, and Victoria. 
 
 New Westminster was formerly the capital of British Co- 
 lumbia, but was succeeded in that position by Victoria in 1808, 
 after much discussion and many trials and tribulations among 
 the representatives of the mainland and Vancouver Island. It is 
 not situated on the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, 
 but is reached by a short branch from New Westminster 
 Junction. It occupies a lovely position on the banks of the 
 Fraser, and is built on the side of a hill. The view of the 
 surrounding country from the city is varied and extensive, 
 and the river itself is the best point from which to regard 
 the city. The population has not increased so rapidly as 
 at Victoria and at Vancouver, but it is a very busy 
 place, and both the buildings and the streets are well 
 constructed, and present a very solid appearance. The 
 principal industries are those connected with the salmon 
 canneries and the sawmills, and it is hardly possible to 
 appreciate how prolific the salmon fisheries on the Fraser arc 
 without paying a visit to New Westminster. On eith 3r side of 
 the river are the factories, where the salmon are prepared and 
 canned, or where they are cleaned and salted and packed in 
 barrels, those being the two forms in which the fish are largely 
 exported. Boats arrive continually at the diflferent sheds full 
 of salmon of all sizes and description, and, much as the river is 
 fished, there seems to be little or no diminution in the catch. 
 The average export of British Columbia consists annually of 
 about 400,000 cases of salmon, each containing 48 1 lb, tins. 
 This does not of course include the salted salmon, of which a 
 large quantity is shipped to all parts of the world. Some of our 
 readers may perhaps have seen photographs of the Fraser 
 Ri»or, at places where it narrows, at times when the salmon 
 are running. It is no stretch of the imagination to say that the 
 quantity of salmon is so great as to occasionally cause a rise in 
 
72 
 
 the level of the river ; and it is no uncommon thing to see 
 salmon on the banks which have been forced out of the water 
 by the pressure of the fish going up stream. One of the great 
 difiiculties connected with the canning industry is the disposal 
 of the oflfal. Hitherto it has been the custom to dump it in 
 the river, which is not only an unhealthy proceeding, but is 
 considered likely to drive the fish away. Regulations have re- 
 cently been put into force to prevent this, and, although 
 it has caused considerable outcry, there can be no doubt 
 that the canners will eventually find it to their advantage. 
 Indeed, the offal may become a valuable product, as a large 
 (quantity of oil may be extracted from it, and the residuum 
 converted into excellent manure. A company is now being 
 exploited to carry on this business, and, if it succeeds, it will 
 not only be profitable, but will tend to add to the trade of the 
 Province, and to the value of the fishery. A novel experiment 
 is being tried in connection with the exportation of fresh salmon 
 from British Columbia to England. As soon as the fish are caught 
 they are placed in refrigerators, and are shipped from Vancouver 
 to Australia by the Huddart steamers, being placed, of course, in 
 the refrigerating chambers of those vessels. They are there 
 transferred into the refrigerators of the Australian liners, and 
 brought to London. The first shipment arrived in excellent 
 order, although the fish were not taken at the best time of the 
 year, and the success of the experiment has been so great that 
 further consignments have already been arranged, and the belief 
 is confidently entertained thai the fish can be sold in London 
 at a price which will leave considerable profit to the enter- 
 prising persons who have initiated the business. It is needless 
 to say, of course, that salmon can be obtained in British 
 Columbia for as many farthings a pound as shillings are paid in 
 the United Kingdom. A good many people are asking why 
 the fish is sent in such a roundabout way, and why th: 
 Canadian Pacific Railway is not utilised. The answer is that 
 there would be a difficulty at present about refrigerating cars 
 on the railway, apart altogether from the extra cost of convey- 
 ance, and that there are no refrigerating chambers on the lines 
 of steamers which now ply between Canada and Great Britain. 
 Vancouver, the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, 
 is well known all over the world. It is a comparatively young 
 city > not yet 10 years old, and besides, was entirely burnt out 
 
T 
 
 I 
 
 73 
 
 in its infancy. It was soon, hovvevor. rebuilt, and is probably 
 now the most substantial-looking city west of Winnipeg. The 
 principal streets are asphalted, as well as the sidewalks ; most of 
 the buildings are constructed of brick or stone, and charming 
 private residences are springing up in every direction. The 
 growth of its population has been most rapid, and it is now in 
 the neighbourhood of 20,000. Owing to the manner in which 
 the city is built, it covers a much wider area of ground than most 
 other cities of its population. The labour that must have been 
 necessary to prepare for its expansion will be appreciated when 
 it is stated that the site of the city was formerly covered with 
 the giant trees of the Douglas fir species, and that many stumps 
 can now be seen, in the outskirts, of 7 or 8 feet in diameter. 
 But even those monsters are comparatively small, as in the 
 Stanley Park, which is adjacent to the city, there are cedars 
 and pines which measure between 40 and 50 feet in circum- 
 ference at some distance from the ground. Vancouver 
 has many advar;tages from its position on Burrard 
 Inlet. The channel is navigable for the largest vessels, 
 and an immense (juantity of shipping is always enter- 
 ing and leaving the port. In addition to the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway service to China and Japan by the magnificent 
 Empress steamers, there are the well-known vessels of the 
 Huddart Line plying between Vancouver and Australia. Sail- 
 ing vessels and steamers are also arriving and leaving continually 
 for United States Pacific ports, and for the northern parts of 
 British Columbia, while vessels are also leaving every day con- 
 veying what are humorously called British Columbia tooth- 
 picks to every purt of the world. These tooth-picks are some- 
 times 3 feet square and GO feet long, or even larger. It will be 
 understood from this that, as at New Westminster, the lumber 
 industry is an important one at Vancouver. The city is also 
 the source of supply for many of the inland mining and lumber- 
 ing districts of the province. Vancouver seems bound to 
 develope, from its position as an entrepot. The trade of the 
 Pacific with China and Japan must increase ; and it cannot be 
 long before British shipping on the Pacific Ocean will develope 
 to an extent it is difficult now to appreciate, and before the 
 people of Canada and the United States will be able to send 
 greetings and messages direct to Australia without having to 
 send them, as at present, by way of Europe. ' ' 
 
 
 I 
 
 ) 1 
 
 t 
 
74 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 , V I C T O K I A . 
 
 I 1 
 
 In order to reach Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, 
 from Vancouver, it is necessary to undertake a short sea voyage 
 of about 84 miles, the run generally occupying about five hours. 
 Although the route is practically land-locked — and it may be 
 mentioned by the way that the scenery is very beautiful — the 
 passage can be a fairly rough one, as many of the passengers 
 on the little top-heavy boat which made a voyage in October 
 last (1894) experienced. The vessel at times rolled and pitched 
 in rather an alarming way, and there were not many passengers 
 who felt inclined to enjoy the motion on one or other of the 
 decks. However, Victoria was at last reached, and a very 
 English-like place it is. Its streets and shops are full of life, 
 and the suburbs are very pretty, and if it is not as solid looking 
 as Vancouver, it has other charms of its own, which the main- 
 land city cannot emulate. Victoria has a population of about 
 20,000, and dates its growth from the gold craze which was 
 rife in British Columbia between 30 and 40 years ago. It has 
 the advantage of being near Esquimault, the headquarters 
 of the Pacific Squadron of Her Majesty's Navy, and blue- 
 jackets are consequently frequently seen in the streets. There 
 is also a considerable Chinese quarter, which is both interesting 
 and instructive, and very dirty, .ut it is a place to which all 
 visitors go out of curiosity. Chinese and Japanese curios, 
 and textiles of all descriptions, are on sale, but probably better 
 stocks can be seen in Regent Street, and at prices rather lower 
 than the Heathen Chinee is apt to ask, although he is by no 
 means accustomed to get what he demands at a first interview. 
 
 The fortifications at Esquimault are being much strengthened, 
 and in the near future it will be a very strong place. The 
 Canadian Government is providing the money necessary for 
 the earthworks, whUe the Imperial Government provides the 
 armaments. Considerable secrecy is being observed as to the 
 works that are in progress, and no one is permitted on the 
 ground without a special order from the officer in command. 
 
75 
 
 It is stated that a Russian Prince, who recently arrived in the 
 country, strolled out very early one morning with a Russian 
 officer, ostensibly for a walk. Perhaps it was not altogether by 
 chance that he found himself in the neighbourhood of Esqui- 
 mault, but, in any case, he had not gone very far before he was 
 pulled up by a sentry, and was prevented from inspecting the 
 fortifications— which was probably the object of his peregrina- 
 tions. 
 
 Considerable jealousy exists between Victoria and Vancouver. 
 You must never expect a Victorian to say anything good of 
 Vancouver, or vice versa ; but surely there is rooin enough for 
 two cities like Vancouver and Victoria in British Columbia. 
 Vancouver Island is as large as Great Britain ; it has exten- 
 sive coal measures, abundance of timber, as well as much 
 mineral wealth. A good deal of the land, when cleared, will 
 be available for agriculture, and will grow anytiiin'^ that a 
 temperate climate will produce. It is probable, therefore, that 
 in the future Victoria will greatly dcvelope. It will never, 
 perhaps, be as important as Vancouver, in view of the fact that 
 the latter is the terminus of the railway, a great shipping port, 
 and the possible landing place of the Pacific cable, and bearing 
 in mind also the development of the mineral resources of the 
 mainland which must take place in the near future, and for 
 which Vancouver is the natural source of supply. 
 
 There are many walks and drives in the neighbourhood of 
 Victoria, and wherever you go charming views of the Sound, 
 and of the islands which are scattered over it, are to be seen, 
 while the magnificent snowy peak of Mount Baker is always 
 visible. Both Victoria and Vancouver have good public 
 parks. The former is known as Beacon Hill Park, and is 
 very prettily arranged, but of course it cannot compare with the 
 Stanley Park of Vancouver, which is practically a piece of the 
 primeval forest. The principal drive is round the park on the 
 seashore, and is nine miles long. The trees are very large, 
 and the foliage of the undergrowth most brilliant. On a fine 
 day the drive is something to be remembered. 
 
 While we were in British Columbia agricultural shows were 
 very frequent, and it gave us an opportunity of forming an 
 idea of what the country could produce. We visited shows 
 at Victoria, as well as at New Westminster, and tL'^re were 
 also some smaller gatherings in the interior. An agricultural 
 
w 
 
 76 
 
 show in Canada is not confined to agriculture — in fact, it is a 
 general exhibitirm, and includes everything. The object is, 
 of course, to give a holiday to the people of the neighbourhood, 
 and the attendance is always pretty numerous, especially when 
 horse racing forms a part of the proceedings, which is generally 
 the case. From an agricultural point of view, the exhibits were 
 excellent, especially so far as regards fruit and vegetables. Apples, 
 pears, plums, grapes, and all the other fruits, were of large 
 size and most excellent in appearance, and tlie same remarks 
 apply also to the vegetables. Fine specimens '^f hops were 
 also on show, and the other exhibits, while not pchaps directly 
 connected with agriculture, gave an excellent idea of the 
 energy and industry of the exhibitors. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 Eastward Again ! 
 
 Having reached the most western part of the Dominion, and 
 not having the time to devote to a trip to Japan, or to Aus- 
 tralia, by the line of steamers which have, in etiect, can'ied the 
 termini of the Canadian }*acilic Railway to Yokohama and 
 Shanghai, as well as to Sydney, there was nothing to do 
 but to return eastward by the " Queen's highway," on, and in 
 the neighbourhood of which we had passed some weeks very 
 pleasantly. The journey from Vancouver is, naturally, very 
 much like the journey to Vancouver, but one is apt to see the 
 magnificent scenery of the Rocky Mountains in different moods 
 and in different weathers, and this experience happened to 
 us. On our way Westward there was little sunshine, and any 
 quantity of mist and rain ; but on our return there was brilliant 
 sunshine by day and moonlight by night, so that we saw the 
 beauties of the scenery in all their varying aspects. 
 
 On the return journey the only stoppage we made was at 
 Winnipeg, and after spending a few days there very pleasantly 
 we took the train to Toronto via North Bay. Toronto 
 is, of course, well known as the capital of the Province of 
 
77 
 
 Ontario, and is situated on tho western end of the lake of 
 that name. It has a population of about 200,000, but is not 
 quite so largo as Montreal : its inhabitants are chiefly of 
 British extraction, and it is, therefore, much more like an 
 English city than the commercial capital of the Province of 
 Quebec. It is a busy hive, with a wholesome bustle of com- 
 mercial and industrial activity, and the streets are full of people ; 
 while tho shops, which are very good, display all the luxuries 
 of Eastern as well as Western civilisation. Toronto is only one 
 of several important cities in the principal Province of the 
 Dominion. Reference must be made to Hamilton, called the Bir- 
 mingham of Canada ; London, which is situated on the Thames, 
 with many of its neighbourhoods named after the larger London 
 in which TJie Colonies and India is published ; Kingston, a more 
 or less important place ever since the time of the French 
 re(jime ; Brantford, and others too numerous to mention in a 
 letter of this kind. Ontario, as everybody knows, also includes 
 the wonderful Falls of Niagara, which can be easily reached 
 from either Toronto or Hamilton. In fact, Ontario is easily the 
 premier Province of Canada, not only by its population, but by 
 the extent of its commercial and industrial interests ; and, not- 
 withstanding the development of the western country, the 
 agricultural industry of Ontario is still the backbone of the 
 Dominion. When one considers how brief the life of Canada 
 has been, how comparatively recently it has been developed by 
 railway communication, and how most of tho farms had to bo 
 cut out of the forest, it is little short of marvellous that so much 
 progress should have been made. It is Ontario which supplies 
 most of the cattle that is sent to tho British markets ; most of the 
 cheese and other dairy produce comes from there also ; and the 
 same thing may be said of the wheat and other cereals which 
 find their way to Great Britain in such large quantities from the 
 Dominion. Free-grant land may still be obtained by hardy 
 settlers, who are willing to hew their farms out of tho forest ; 
 and improved farms may bo purchased by those who are 
 prepared to pay from 2/. or ol. up to 20/. per acre, according to 
 location, the extent of buildings, «fcc. A good deal is said from 
 time to time about the rigour of the Canadian climate, but it is 
 not generally known that a good many of the Canadian apples, 
 which have obtained so great a reputation, come from Ontario ; 
 that peaches grow in Ontario in such quantities that they are 
 
 \\\ 
 
78 
 
 
 frequently fed to the pigs ; that grapes and other delicate fruits 
 ripen in the open air ; and that the Province is the seat of a not 
 unimportant wine-making industry. 
 
 A series of letters about Canada would bo incomplete with- 
 out some references to the Maritime Provinces of New Bruns- 
 wick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island. As a rule, they 
 are not much visited by persons who take the trip from the 
 Atlantic to the Pacific, so that the beautiful scenery they con- 
 tain, their natural resources, and the advantages they offer, 
 both to tourists and to settlers, are not as much appreciated or 
 Vncwn as they deserve to be. They have abundant mineral 
 anii xorest wealth, a temperate climate and a fertile soil, which 
 can produce all the products that are grown in such latitudes ; 
 and the county is, besides, admirably suited for cattle raising and 
 for dairying, which industries are now receiving greater atten- 
 tion than they have hitherto done. Tlien, again, the fisheries 
 around the coast are abundant, and form a great source of 
 wealth to the inhabitants, while the position the Provinces 
 occupy, as being the nearest part of the American continent to 
 Europe, should give them great advantages in the export trade — 
 advantages which so far have not been utilised to the extent 
 they deserve. The Maritime Provinces are probably better 
 known to Army and Navy men than to other classes of the com- 
 munity. Halifax has always been a favourite station with both 
 services, and many officers and men have returned to that part 
 of Canada after having finished their active work. Living is 
 cheap, beautiful scenery is everywhere found, even in other 
 places besides the district which Longfellow's poems have made 
 famous, and any quantity of fishing and shooting in all their 
 varieties can be obtained by the sportsman. Regarded from 
 any point of view, the Maritime Provinces are really one of the 
 most favoured parts of Canada, and if in the past they have not 
 progressed as rapidly as might be desired, they have been 
 advancing steadily both in wealth and in population, and must, 
 before very long, take up the position to which they are 
 entitled in view of the many advantages they possess. 
 
 ' !l 
 
-I. 1 
 
 79 
 
 XXV. 
 
 Thk Inoustiuks ok Canada. 
 
 After having travelled from one end of Canada to the other, 
 it is necessary to say something of the various industries in 
 •which Canadians occupy themselves — industries to which 
 Canada owes its present position, and upon which the 
 future of the country depends. In Canada, as in most of the 
 other Colonies, there is no leisured class. Every})ody works 
 more or less hard, and, although tho'o are a few millionaires in 
 the country, the generality of the peojlo have incomes that are 
 moderate compared with those of the higher classes in the 
 United Kingdom, although the general standard of wealth 
 is probably greater than it is at home. 
 
 The principal industry is of course agriculture, and it applies 
 equally to every Province. Most of the country is situated in 
 temperate latitudes, and the soil and climate are eminently 
 suited for the production of the crops, fruits and vegetables 
 that grow in Central and Northern Europe. Considering the size 
 of the Dominion, the climate naturally varies, but it has a regular 
 summer heat which is sufficient in almost every part of the 
 country to grow all the smaller fruits in perfection, and even 
 many of those which do not ripen in the open air in the United 
 Kingdom. Exception must of course be made in this statement 
 to Manitoba and the North-West, but even there, although apples 
 do not grow, and grapes are not common, yet all the smaller 
 fruits like strawberries and raspberries, gooseberries and 
 cherries, grow wild and very luxuriantly, while wild hops are 
 frequently seen in the summer time. Cattle raising and dairy- 
 ing are carried on everywhere. Canada sends more cheese to 
 CJreat Brit^iin than any other place in the world. The quantity 
 of butter exported is also increasing, and the cattle shipments 
 from Canada are sufficient to have created considerable feeling 
 among agriculturists, both in England and Scotland, in con- 
 nection with the restrictions that have recently been placed 
 upon their importation. 
 
 The next industry in magnitude is probably that connected 
 with the timber trade. In the Maritime Provinces, in Quebec, 
 
80 
 
 and in Ontario, in tlio northoiri partn of Manitoba and the 
 North-West Territories, and in Britisli C(»lumbia, timber of all 
 kinds is found, and there in not only a lar^'o local demand, but, 
 both on the Atlantic and on the Pacific, the export of lumber 
 is a conBiderablo buainess, employinj^ a larj^o amount of capital 
 and many thousands of men. 
 
 Probably, next in importance to a^'riculture and timber »mc8 
 the fishing industry. This is principally exploited on the 
 Atlantic coast and in the (iulf of St, Lawrence, and it is the 
 nursery of a hardy race of sailors which have made Canadian 
 ships and Canadian commerce known in all the ports of the 
 world. The importance of the fisheries is also omphasiKed by 
 the ondeavfnirs that have been made so frc(|uentlyby our Ameri- 
 can cousins to share in this source of wealth. There are con- 
 siderable fisheries also in the rivers and lakes of the country, 
 from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and on the shores of 
 British Columbia the fisheries are particularly extensive and 
 valuable, although practically undeveloped, owing to the difW- 
 culty at present of finding markets for tlie fish when caught. 
 
 Canada is exceptionally rich in minerals. Large deposits 
 of coal exist both on the Atlantic and on the Pacific, and 
 naturally these are of exceptional value to the Empire, as with- 
 out coaling stations the Atlantic and Pacific squadrons would be 
 very much embarrassed in tiu)C3 of war. Coal is also mined in 
 the North- West Territories, and its discovery has done much to 
 promote the settlement of that part of the country. Iron is 
 found in many places ; gold and silver arc also worked in the 
 different Provinces, and in the near future, as the country 
 becomes developed, it will be strange indeed if deposits of these 
 precious metals are not discovered which will create much 
 attention. Cold is being obtained in small quantities in Nova 
 Scotia, in Quebec, in C)ntario, and in Britisli Columbia, and in 
 the last-named Province the same range of mountains passes 
 through the country that have been such a fruitful .source of 
 wealth to Colorado and California. In fact, it may bo stated 
 that Canada possesses deposits of almost all the known minerals, 
 but, although the population has rapidly grown, it is still very 
 small indeed for the size of the country, and hardly more than 
 a fringe is at present peopled. As it becomes opened up, more 
 populated, and is made accessible, the mineral industry is likely 
 to assume far greater proportions than at present. ■ • 
 
81 
 
 ~« ' IF 
 
 With all iheso natural advantageu, and particularly in view 
 of the fiscal policy wliich has been adopted in tho last 15 or 
 1<> yoars, it in not surprising that a large manufacturing 
 industry has ])ecn developed. The census of IHUl demon- 
 strated tho ^reat pro^'ress that had been made in this direction 
 since 1881, and an advance almost equally extensive was shown 
 in tho census of the latter year. Tho capital employed in 
 manufactures has increased, also the number of factories and 
 the number of hands employed, and tho great expansion in tho 
 traflic carried over tho railways and along tho waterways shows 
 tho important position local manufactures are assuming in con- 
 nection with the re(juirements of the country. Tho manufac- 
 tories have a very wide range, and include almost every article 
 of production ; and no doubt the progress that has been made 
 has tended to prevent tho increase in the import trade which 
 would otherwise have taken place to supply the wants of the 
 people. Tho way in which tho country has become inhabited 
 is calculated to assist in the development of manufacturing 
 industries. In the Australian Colonies there is generally one 
 very large city and a few smaller ones ; but the system of 
 small towns and villagfis, which is common enough intlie United 
 Kingdom, seems to be more or less unknown in the outlying 
 parts of the Empire, (excepting perhaps in Canada. There, 
 villages and small towns are iiumerouh, and there is quite a 
 respectable number of them (about 150), containing each more 
 than 2,000 people. Naturally, in these places there is a tendency 
 to start manufactures, especially where water-power is avail- 
 able, and therefore factories are seen in all tho older I'rovincea 
 especially, although they have not developed so rapidly i.i 
 Manitoba, the North-West Territories, and British Columbia. 
 
 In addition to the industries already mentioned, railways 
 and shipping employ an immense amount of capital and a large 
 number of men ; and there are also tho learned professions. 
 Mechanics and unskilled labourers of various kinds are 
 numerous, but there has never been an unemployed move- 
 ment of any extent. The people are generally in more or 
 less constant employment and in receipt of wages which enable 
 them to live comfortably, and to bring up their families in a 
 way which is not always possible in older countries. There i. 
 no distinction of caste to anything like the same extent that 
 obtains in the United Kingdom. A man is regarded according 
 
 i 
 
'I 
 
 62 
 
 to the position ho makes for himself, by sobriety, energy, and 
 perseverance ; and the facilities for education are such that the 
 poorest boy in the land has the opportunity of fitting himself 
 for the highest positions the country can ofler. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 Chancks fou Immiguamh. 
 
 It is only natural that an inquiry should bo made as to the 
 chances and opportunities Canada offers to the various classes 
 which form tlie bulk of the emigration movement both from 
 the United Kingdom and the Continent. In a new country 
 there must neccHsarily bo more opportunities for advance- 
 ment than in an older one, and usually there is not that obser- 
 vance of cast-iron rules which generally prevails in more ancient 
 communities. It must be stated, however, that success in the 
 Colonies demands just the same qualities as those which are 
 required elsewhere, and perhaps in an even greater degree. 
 Many people in the Colonies — and this applies especially to 
 Canada — have risen from very small beginnings ; and practi- 
 cally the same chances are open to the youth of the present 
 day, with the (qualification, of course, that competition is 
 greater now than it used tq be. 
 
 After all, however, the classes of people wanted in Canada 
 are comparatively limited, although there is room enough for 
 an unlimited number of the right sort. Capitalists, large and 
 small, are what are chiefly desired, and, if they can be induced 
 to go in any considerable number, there will bo no difficulty 
 in getting those who live by their labour to follow. In 
 agriculture, in lumber, in the fisheries, in mining, and in 
 manufactures, there is, no doubt, money to be made, but it is 
 the nj^rriculturist that the country stands in special need of at the 
 present time, to bring into cultivation the millions of acres of 
 land that is now unoccupied. The farmer with a little capital 
 may go to almost any part of the country with the certainty of 
 doing well, but, of course, some parts will be likely to suit him 
 
83 
 
 bette.r than others, and upon this point he must make full 
 inquiry. In the older Provinces of Canada, while Government 
 land may still be obtained very cheaply, it must not be for- 
 gotten that the land is generally covered with wood, and requires 
 to be cleared before it can be tilled, and that the average " old 
 countryman" is not specially qualified for work of that 
 character. Improved farms may bo oiL^avinod at reasonable 
 prices and on easy terms of payment, but much will depend, of 
 course, on the contiguity of the farm to settlements, railways, 
 and waterways. In Manitoba and the North- West free grants 
 of land may be obtained, unencumbered with trees and ready for 
 the plough, but even there it must be remembered that land 
 near the railways and the rivers is taken up rapidly, and that 
 free homesteads can only now be had a few miles distant from 
 railway stations and settlements. It is therefore a question 
 whether a settler, if ho has a little capital, would not be well 
 advised in buying an improved farm even on the prairie, 
 leaving the younger and hardier spirits to undertake the pioneer 
 work. Canada, of course, has its drawbacks, as well as ii^s 
 advantages, but the latter are generally considered to out- 
 weigh the former, which explains the expansion that is 
 continually taking place. It would be idle to ignore the fact 
 that the Canadian farmer has felt tlia depression that has been 
 passing over the world, but at the same time the low prices have 
 hit him less hard than fanners in many other countries. This 
 arises from tho fact that his land is cheap, taxation is low, 
 labour- solving appliances are in constant use, that ho is his oAvn 
 landlord, and last, but not least, that hu and the members of 
 his family do their own work and only employ such addi- 
 tional hands as are absolutely necessary. Of course there is 
 no royal road to fortune by way of agriculture in Canada any 
 more than elsewhere, but it will provide a K;omfortable living 
 and a healthy life, two things in themselves sufficiently 
 important to attract tho attention of peo^u^ who may bo 
 thinking of emigration. 
 
 Farm labourers are in considerable demand in all parts of 
 the country, but single men are preferred to married men with 
 families, as it is not the custom to puf up cottages or Canadian 
 farms for the uso of tho labourers, all the hands employed 
 living under the one roof. Of course there are exceptions in 
 the older Provinces, but, as a general rule, single men are 
 
 f2 
 
84 
 
 preforrod. Canada aflbrds oxcollont opportunities for farm 
 laboiirors. Thoy live well and got good wagos, bo that if 
 they are hard-working and thrifty there is nothing to pre- 
 vent them starting on their own account in a few years if they 
 have any ambition to do so. Hundreds and thousands of 
 instances could be found where tliis has been the case, and one 
 cann(jt lielp thinking how much better it would bo for the 
 tlKJUHunds of farm labourers who in the last few years have 
 migrated from the English rural districts to the towns, if they 
 had gone to Canada instead of passing a more or less miserable 
 existence among the congested populations which they have 
 helped to swell. In Canada thoy could have turned their skill to 
 some advantage, while in the English towns they have simply 
 become unskilled laVjourers, uncertain of employment, living 
 f»'om day to day and from hand to mouth. 
 
 Another class for which there is a great demand is female 
 servants, both in the country districts and in the towns. In 
 every place that one goes to, the cry is, "Send us more 
 servants," and the wonder is that the demand does not attract 
 a greater supply. Wages are generally good, although, 
 excepting in Manitoba, the North-West Territories, and 
 liritish Columbia, not higher than in London ; but the homes 
 are comfortable, and the girls seem to have more freedom 
 and more liberty than at homo. One of the difliculties of 
 colonial ladies is that their servants get married so rapidly, 
 wliich perhaps, however, the servants do not regard as a dis- 
 advantage. There is no doubt that servant girls have a dis- 
 inclination to travel far away fnmi home, especially if they have 
 to go alone, and have no friends in the places to which they 
 may 1)0 going. This difliculty, however, is overcome to a certain 
 extent by the supervision that is allbrded by Emigration 
 sociotios in the United Kingdom, by the Oovernment agents, 
 and by the Ladies' Committees which are to be found in most 
 of the Canadian cities and towns. Jii many cases, accommoda- 
 tion is provided by the committees until satisfactory employ- 
 ment is found, which is generally only a (question of a few 
 hours. 
 
 The emigration of mechanics, general labourers, and navvies 
 is not encouraged, unlers they are pioceeding to join friends 
 already settled in the country. The reason for fhin is obvious. 
 The demand for labour is generally met by the available supply 
 
80 
 
 on the spot and by tlio immigration that voluntarily takes place, 
 and it standu to reason that if, in a country with a limited 
 population like Canada, a largo indJHcriniinato iuniiigration was 
 invited of people to whom immediate employment waH a neceH- 
 sity, it would be simply creating a congestion of population, and 
 an unemployed ([uestion, and throw back the current of desira})lo 
 immigration for many years. Therefore, it is much better that 
 emigration of this class should only bo encouraged in such 
 numbers as can bo readily absorbed. The emigration to Canada 
 could easily be increased to treblo its present numbers, but, 
 unless it consisted of people for whom there is a demand, it 
 would only promote difliculty and trou])lo, and tlu3 Canadian 
 Government deserve congratulation on the careful and circum- 
 spect manner in which this part of its work is conducted. 
 
 With regard to the professions and to the lighter callings, 
 including clerks of all kinds, it may be stated that there is 
 little opening for emigration of that kind. The demand is met 
 by the local supply, and naturally anyone living in Canada has 
 an advantage over the stranger, although ho may be a Hritish 
 subject. Of course, there is always room at the top of the 
 ladder, l)ut competition is keen, and anyone who knows the 
 country would hesitate to recommend persons of the classes 
 named to go out, especially if obliged to rely upon immediate 
 occupation for a livelihood. 
 
 The object of this series of letters has been to give some 
 description, slight and imperfect though it may be, of the 
 parts of Canada which are traversed in journeying from the 
 Atlantic to the Paciiic ; also to give an idea of the industries of 
 tke people, and of the classes which can be recommended to go 
 to Canada, with the certainty of doing well. If they are 
 Buccessful in creating some little interest in the country, and in 
 stimulating further intjuiries about its many attractions, its 
 great resources and capabilities, the writer will bo abundantly 
 satisfied. 
 
 
 Spottiiwoode <{• Co., I^intert, New-itreel Nquare, London, B.C. 
 
THE 
 
 |i 
 
 Gordon Hotels 
 
 ARE: 
 
 GRAND HOTEL 
 HOTEL METROPOLE 
 
 AND 
 
 WHITEHALL ROOMS 
 HOTEL VICTORIA 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 FIRST AVENUE HOTEL LONDON. 
 
 HOTEL METROPOLE 
 
 BRIGHTON. 
 
 AND 
 
 CLARENCE ROOMS 
 
 BURLINGTON HOTEL EASTBOURNE. 
 
 ROYAL PIER HOTEL RYDE, I. of W. 
 
 CLIFTONVILLE HOTEL MARGATE. 
 
 LORD WARDEN HOTEL 
 
 HOTEL METROPOLE 
 HOTEL METROPOLE 
 
 DOVER. 
 
 MONTE CARLO. 
 CANNES. 
 
 '.i 
 
Camdian Pacific Railway 
 
 AND 
 
 ROYAL MAIL STEAMSHIP LINE. 
 JAPAN AND CHINA. 
 
 Tho only actual Trans -Continental Hallway on the 
 American Continent. Tho longest Lino under one 
 Management in tho World. Its Trains and Steamers 
 extend in a direct line from Atlantic tide-water to 
 Hong-Kong -9,180 miles. 
 
 WANTED IN CANADA -Farmers, Farm-Libourors, Domestic Sorvunis, 
 ;i.ii(l yU'.n uilliiij^Mo l(.;arn Farmin.t,'. l'iii<(lan<l's Mc;irc;st (Jolony. Krc(! 
 KlO-Acro Oitvornrnont (irants. Cheap Jiailway liands. (lood 
 Markets. Free Scliools. 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND, ROUND THE 
 
 WORLD. New Fast l'ass('n;j;er Service, rid Vancouver. l\y 
 )»est Atlantic St(!arners, any line, to Quehoc, Montreal, is'ew Vork, 
 r>oston, or Halifax; thence ri^ Canadian Pacilic- Uail way, taking in 
 Niagara Falls and the grand sfienery of the llockies. Only line 
 running tliroiigh-t rains under one management Atlantic to Pacific. 
 
 EMPllICSS OF INDIA, ILMPIUCSS OF JAPAN, EMPRFSS 
 
 OF r///A^.l, (),()(;0 tons gn).ss, 10,000 horse-power; largest, fjistest, 
 linestjOMly twin-scr(;w .steamers on the I'acilic Ocean, leave Van- 
 couver monthly for Japan and China, rid Inland Sea. 
 
 Canadian-Australian Line Steam.^hips, fastest and (inest running 
 fn)m American Continent to Australasia, leave Vancouver monthly 
 for Honolulu, Fiji, and Sydney. Flectric Light. Good Cuisine. 
 Except ionally Largo Cabins. 
 
 Kound the World, rid Japan and China, or Australia, or Africa. 
 
 CHEAP TOURS ON THE C.P.R. (Jo.st less than a C(jntinental Trip. 
 More Luxurious. Fewer J<iXtras. Express Train tServiee to Fishing 
 and Shoot ing Grounds. Through t lie Finest Sccmery in the World — 
 an Enchanting Panorama of Lakes, Prairies, .Mountains, and llivers. 
 
 J']v<!ryone wlio reads this should apply personally or by letter for 
 
 gratuitous and post-free accurate maps and handsomely illustrated 
 
 guide books. Various sets of pamphlets describing services, &c., as 
 
 above, are i)ublished. State which set is rcjiuired. 
 
 CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY, 
 67 & 68 KING WILLIAM STREET, LONDON, E.G. 
 
 30 Gockspur Street, \ 7 James Street, Liverpool. 
 Charing Cross, S.W. 67 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow. 
 
 2 
 
F 
 
 BEAVER' LINE 
 
 OF 
 
 PASSENGER STEAMERS 
 
 (Under Contract with the Government of Canada.) 
 
 SAILING EVERY SATURDAY 
 
 LIVERPOOL 
 
 TO 
 
 QUEBEC & MONTREAL 
 
 Winter ervice to ST. JOHN, N.B., direct. 
 
 S.S. Lake Ontario ... 5,300 tons 
 8.S. Lake Huron 5,000 „ 
 
 rrKix»<t C1SI.SS 
 
 Secoxicl Cstbli:^ . 
 Saloon 
 
 8.8. Lake 8uperior ., 
 S.S. Lakft Winnipeg.. 
 
 5,300 tons 
 4,000 ,, 
 
 At 
 Tao^vh FC:ci.tea. 
 
 The Steamers of this Line have been built specially 
 for the Atlantic Passenger Trade with all the recent 
 improvements for the comfort and safety of Passengers. 
 
 STEERAGE accommodiUion by tluj 'Ukavku' LIiNe; is un.sur- 
 passed hy any other Line, all Iho coTiipart.inents bein;^^ heated by 
 sfcani pipes, and having'' the Ijest of ventilation. Stc(;raj^c l':issen- 
 gers are piovid(!(l free of charj^o v^^ith the usual Outfit, consisting of 
 Bed, Pillow, I'.lankot,, Tlatc, Drink in;^-- (!up, Knife, Fork, and Spoon. 
 
 SECOND CABIN STATE ROOMS, 2, '^, and I berths in each, 
 are large and roomy, lieated l>y .stciam pipes, and furnished through- 
 out to all'ord the utmost comfort and conv(inionce to I'a;,' /era. A 
 most, liberal Diet.iry i.s provided, and JJcd, JJedding, tnd every 
 requisite found by the St(;amer. 
 
 The SALOON accommodation is fittcid througliout with all the; 
 most modern improvements for the comfort of Tasscngcrs. There 
 are J3ath and Smoke llooms; also Ladies' S;doon. The State-rooms 
 are very largo and have the best of vcntikition. 
 
 (!he;tp through Tickets is.sucd to all Towns in CANADA and the 
 UNITKD STATKS. 
 
 Steerage Passengers resident in London, or in places so situated 
 that they have to pass through London to reach Liverpool, will be 
 provided with FREE conveyance from London to LiverpooL 
 
 For further information, and to secure berths, apply to— 
 
 P. & C. MACIVEB, "'""^'WrTaf's'yR^EET. LIVERPOOL 
 
 3 
 
CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 The Sleeping Cars arc built, owned, ami f)pc'rat(;(l by t 
 pany, and no (ixijensc; lias been spared to make them perfect 
 arc finislicd oiilsioe willi 
 |)olish(!d niahoj^Mny, and \ 
 their interiors, with tli(!ii- 
 rich carvings and beaut i fid 
 fitting's, iirc b(!yond com- 
 parison. 'I'Ik! berths arc; 
 wider, hi^^dicr, and loiij,fer 
 than in other Slc(!pinj< ( 'ars. 
 The curtains, blankets, ;iMd 
 linen, made expressly for 
 the ('ompany, are ol' IIk; 
 
 Ijo Com- 
 . They 
 
 TRANS-CONTINENTAL CAR 
 arranged for day use. 
 
 (incst f|uality. Many of the 
 .Sl<'epin<,'Cars ;irc pnjvided with 
 batln-joms. Writing pap<:r and 
 envcslopes are furnishefl free to 
 first-class Sleopin^'-C'ar Pas- 
 >enf,'(r.s on Trans-Continental 
 'i'rains on .'ipi)lieation to the 
 porter; and to keep travellers 
 somewhat informed upon current 
 events, a sunin.ary of the news 
 
 of the world is daily posted up in the sleepers, and at the Company's 
 
 hotels in the mountains. 
 
THE 
 
 HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY 
 
 OKKKK Foil SALK 
 
 FARMING & GRAZING LANDS 
 
 IN 
 
 Manitoba and the North-West Territory 
 
 ON tCASy TERMS OF TAYIMENT, 
 
 And without any Conditions of Settlement or Cdltiviition Duties. 
 
 riMlK (/ompnny .'in; ontilhid lo (jiKJ-twcnliclli ol" \\h\ lands in llio 
 -■- Fertile WiiM, and n>c(!ivo as thoir sharo two Sofitions in (ivery (ifl.li 
 'J'ownship, arid one Hciction and i,href;-(|uarl,ers of a SfioUon in every 
 other 'I'ownHliip or I)islri(;t, as surveyed by the Dominion Government, 
 and set out, for sett.Niment,. Kaeli Scctif)n consists of (510 acres, and 
 will b(! sold either in l)Iock or in (|iiart(!r-se(;tions of lOO acres each. 
 
 Tlie Company also offer 
 
 TOWN LOTS FOR SALE 
 
 At Victoria, Winnipeg, Fort William, Rat Portage, Portage la Prairie, 
 Fort Qu'Appelle, Prince Albei', and Edmonton. 
 
 INTENDING TRAVELLERS AND SETTLERS 
 
 Will find (ivery Kequisite suilod to the Ccjiintry on sale at the 
 (/ompiiny's Stonis, which are distributed throughoul, Canada, the 
 more iniportant being at 
 
 WINNIPEG. CALGARY. VICTORIA. 
 
 PORTAGE LA PRAIRIE. FORT WILLIAM. VANCOUVER. 
 
 JPamphletH and full information in regard to these 
 lands will he given at the Offices of the Company in 
 Main Street, Winnijteg, or at the London Office, 
 1 Lime Street, E.C, 
 
 6 
 
DOMINION LINE 
 
 ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS 
 
 To CANADA and UNITED STATES 
 
 DIRECT AND SHORTEST ROUTE to AMERICA. 
 
 FROM LIVERPOOL TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL (IN SUMMER), 
 
 TO HALIFA X AND PORTLAND (I N WINTER). 
 
 TlicRO SteiiTTK^rK iiro fltbtl with EI(!Ctrlc Ll^ht tlirouKhont, liiivo KiilfK>nH, Ktato 
 RnomR, Miixi'; ilrM)riiH, Kiiiokinff Ilooni mid liiitli HooinHairiidHhlpH, wlKintlitiiHt motion 
 iHfr^lt.arniirnonKHt the liir((nHtHii(]flrii!stittloat,Hn(l lint wt^ll an<lfHVOiinilily known for 
 tlui comfort iiml oxcttllcnt iirranK'^iiKiiitH tlu-y iifforfl for ull olaowm of PaHjieiiK'srM. 
 
 THE SECOND CABIN acr^fjinmoiliition iH Hii<!cially cninfortnblR, alibcnil anil 
 vari'd MM of fun;, uiirt •jvcrytliliiK niicctwiiry for tlio voyii«o Ih-'Ijik providcil. 
 
 STEERAGE PASSENGERS win lin<l tliriir comfort anil convoiiidDco Hpociuily 
 HtiKlimJ, till) Hl<!(;pinK rooiiiH.coiitaintnK a liii itcd number in ciicli.lininK well lighted, 
 heated, imil thoroughly ventilated. An abi iidimt Hiipiily of ProvlHionH ol the beitt 
 (■iiality cooked and nerved up by the Compiiny'K Hervauts. 
 
 Surgeon, Stewardosses, and Steepago Matron on each Steamer. 
 
 TUitovaii hOiHiiNds at spjjvial ha tics to all 
 
 rot NTH IS VAN A DA A'ifl> t/NITICO STATES. 
 
 SPECIAL LOW RATES TO ALL POINTS IN ONTARIO. MANITOBA, 
 THE GREAT NORTH-WEST. AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 SPECIAL ADVANTAGES are olfercd to I'asHenKorH travelliuK by the 
 DOMINION LINE. Tin; TrainHrnnalonKHidethe Bteamerx, thuH Having' I'aHKengers 
 the orpenHe of traimfer through the City. A Bpedal Conductor accoinpunieH all 
 traiiifi, to attend to the rcquiromentH of the I'aHRongers. Uaggaf^e is chocked and 
 Kent forward by the Hiinu! tniin aH the I'liflHengers, thUH avoiding all trouble. Botrlerx' 
 effect! are allowed to enter free of duty ; SOOllis. of liagga^'e In allowed to Piiiwengerx 
 going through to Miinltoba, North- WeHt Territory, and BrltiHh Columbia. Bleeping 
 Ciir« provided for Kmlgrants from Montreal. 
 
 OCEAN FARES — 
 
 SALOON, FROM 10 GUINEAS. SECOND CABIN AND STEERAGE 
 
 AT LOWEST RATES 
 
 Passengers are strongly recommended to purchase Tickets 
 from Local Agents lefore leaving home. 
 
 Fob fukthku particularh apply to 
 
 RICHARDS, MILLS & CO., Mana^e.^s. 
 
 24 Jameh Street, LIVERPOOL. 
 
 6 
 
Ai-«1-<AN L1N£ STEAMERS. 
 
 ^^^^^^ /TTVn»li'T> /'rkXTrrn 4 rcn «Ti'i'ir miru /^'/wrifTiXTAt i.'VTt^ /-vtj /iikti i>i \ 
 
 (UNDER (JONTRAOT WITH THE CiOVKRNMKNT OP CANADA.) 
 
 THE 
 SHORTEST, 
 CHEAPEST, 
 
 AND 
 
 CANADA, MANITOBA, THE NORTH-WEST 
 
 TERRITORIES, 
 
 British Columbia, The Western States of America 
 and to all points on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 The I\Iail Steamers of this Lin(! are lightefl by Elcolricity, and tlic 
 
 iSlat.0 Kooras are amidsliips. 
 
 SALOON RATES— 10 to 20 Guineas. 
 
 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 
 
 SECOND CABIN— A limited number are taken by each 
 
 Steamer. 
 
 STEERAGE The comfort of Steerage Passengers Is well 
 looked after. They are provided with every requisite 
 
 for the voyage 
 
 Special Stewardesses are appointed to all end to Cabin, Second Cabin, 
 and Stcera<;e Passengers. Medical attention free. 
 
 At the lianding I'orts, the Allan Line Steamers run alongside the 
 Ila,ilway Train, and Passengers and their Luggage; are transferred free. 
 Those proceeding West are thus able to continue the journey without 
 inconvenience, expense, or loss of time. A special Conductor accompanies 
 all trains to attend to the wants of Passengers. 
 
 SPECIAL Through Rates to CHINA and JAPAN, and to Points In 
 AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND, by the new route through 
 CANADA, via VANCOUVER, B.C. 
 
 For Pampldcts and other 2)orticiilars apply to : — 
 
 A' LAN BROTHERS & CO., 19 James Street, Liverpool; 
 . 13 Leadenhall Street, London; and 50 Foyle Street, 
 . Londonderry; or to 
 
 J. & A. ALLAN, 35 Bothwell Street, Glasgow. 
 
 7 
 
«p 
 
 CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 DINING 
 
 Dining Cars, unsurpassed in style and finish, are run during day- 
 time on Trans-Coal incntal Trains between Montreal and Vancouver. 
 Special attention has been given by the Company to the service of 
 these Cars, and travellers will find all the delicacies of the season at 
 thei" demand for the nominal cliarge of 75 cents per meal for adults 
 and 50 cents for children under ten. 
 
 h 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 Ui iti 
 
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 1118 
 
 11.25 1 1.4 11.6 
 
 <^ 
 
 /i 
 
 
 
 /a 
 
 ^V 
 
 V 
 
 /A 
 

 6^ 
 
DIRECT CANADA AND WEST INDIA CABLE 
 
 COMMUNICATION. 
 
 //////////////////////////////////////////////////•///////////••/!/; 
 
 THE 
 
 Halifax and Bermudas Gable Company, 
 
 LIMITED, 
 
 Has communication between 210 HoUis Street, 
 HALIFAX, N.S., and BERMUDA. 
 
 EXTENSION to TURKS ISLAND and JAMAICA CONTEMPLA TED. 
 
 BERMUDA: Centpal Port of Call for Orders, Refitting, 
 Coal, &€., for Vessels from Eastward bound to Canada, 
 United States, &c. 
 
 t'K/\j \/\r\/\r 
 
 BEAUTIFUL WINTER RESORT. 
 
 35th Annual Edition, price 50s. elegantly bound. 
 
 COUNTY FAMILIES OF TBE UNITED KINGDOM 
 
 CONTAIXINQ 
 
 NOTICES OF THE DESCENT— BIRTH— MARRIAGE— EDUCATION Ac. of more 
 THAN 12,000 DISTINGUISHED HEADS of FAMILIES IN 120 COUNTIES OF the 
 
 UNITED KINGDOM. 
 
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 Together with the Offices or Appointments which they hold or have held 
 
 their Heirs Apparentjor Presumptive, their County Residences, Town 
 
 Addresses, Clubs, and an Index to their Principal Seats, &c. &c. 
 
 
 London: CHATTO & WINDUS, 214 Piccadilly, W. 
 
OM 
 
 MOHB 
 P THR 
 
 FREE GRANTS OF LAND 
 
 IN CANADA. 
 
 See the Heports of the twelve British Tenant Fanners 
 who visited the Dominion in 1893, 
 
 ■\f\ 4 \ r\ I ^ r\ r\ 
 
 1 60 acres in Manitoba and the North -West Territories; 
 100 to 200 in other Provinces. 
 
 OPENINGS FOR THE INVESTMENT OF CAPITAL 
 IN MANUFACTURES, &c. 
 
 Improved Farms at reasonable prices in 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA, NEW BRUNSWICK, PRINCE EDWARD 
 
 ISLAND, QUEBEC, ONTARIO, MANITOBA, 
 
 and BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 Tenant Farmers and others wishing to engage in 
 Agriculture will find many opportunities for the 
 investment of their capital in Canada; and there is 
 also a demand for Farm Labourers and Female 
 Domestic Servants of Good Character. 
 
 The Eeports of the Tenant-Farmer Delegates, those of Professor 
 Long and Professor Wallace, and other Pamphlets, containing full 
 information respecting trade and commerce, the investment of capital, 
 land regulations, demand for labour, rates of wages, cost of living, &c., 
 can be had on application to the Office of the High Commissioner for 
 Canada, 17 Victoria Street, S.W. (Mr. J. G. COLMER, Secretary); or to 
 the following Agents of the Canadian Governm^ent : Mr. JOHN DYKE, 
 15 Water Street, Liverpool; Mr. J. W. DOWN, Bath Bridge, Bristol; 
 Mr. E. J. WOOD, 78 Beaufort Road, Birmingham; Mr. THOMAS 
 GRAHAME, 40 St. Enoch Square, Glasgow ; Mr. PETER FLEMING, 
 44 High Street, Dundee; and Mr. W. G. STUART, Nethy Bridge, 
 luverness. 
 
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 the Mother Country and the Colonies. 
 
 In addition to the above, the (TOlOniCS an& ^llMa 
 contains Original Articles and Notes dealing with the pro- 
 g:ress and extension of the Trade between Great Britain 
 and her outlying dependencies. 
 
 The Colonies anO 3nt)ia is read by the leading Poli- 
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 Published every Saturday. Subscription for 52 Issues a 
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 Abroad. _ _ _ 
 
 Offices— Imperial Buildings, Ludgate Circus, London, E.C, 
 
 TEL EV HONE No. IS 197. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE SEASON. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 J3y 'SUMOOIVN^EIR.' 
 
 Price Is. 
 
 lUk^ 
 
 tttrnt 
 
 Mm 
 
 les a 
 23s. 
 
 c. 
 
 T/ie Diily NetBS.—' A pleasant little volume— might have been signed by "Truthful 
 Jamos " instead of by " Sandowner." ' 
 
 Ldttcasffir Sfnudard.— 'The book is an interesting production, anecdotal, brightly 
 ^vritten, racy and entertaining to the superlative degree . . . thoroughly readable and 
 worth purchasing.' 
 
 Financial AVir^.—' Really good reading.* 
 
 Di'ioti and Eurter Gazette.—' Although the sensitive reader of " Snakes " may feel a 
 creeping sensation when perusing the accounts of "Sundowner's" thrilling experiencs 
 of that specucs of reptiles in Australia and Fiji, yet he or she cannot fai! to be intensely 
 interested by them. So extraordinary are some of the stories related tliat one might 
 almost be inclined to question their genuineness, but, according to the preface, the 
 lx)ok is intended as an antidote to " many unreliable and obviously fanciful accounts of 
 Huakes and their habits." ' 
 
 Jmperiid and Asiatic Quarterly TJetieir.—'" Snakes," by "Sundowner," is a small, 
 well-printed book, by one who has had a great experience of the reptiles in Australia. 
 He is brimful of stories about snakes, all of which are interesting, and some arc of 
 gigantic height ; by this last qualification we do not by any means express incredulity, 
 as our own experience of Australian snakes is practically nil. With these snake stories 
 thoire is a good deal of important information regarding the natural history of these 
 animals and their manners and cuBtoms. The book will repay perusal.' 
 
 The Scotsman.—' A study of the Australian and Fijian snakes, made by a writer who 
 appears to have bad considerable experience as a enake-farmer. The stories it tells are 
 iuteresting in themselves, and, unlike the majority of snake stories that have got into 
 print, do not bear upon their face a guarantee of their untruthfulness. The book is 
 interesting, chatty, and well-informed, and will both amuse and instruct anyone who 
 desires to have unsystematlsed information on its subject.' 
 
 diill's News Letter,— 'The author gives some of his own experiences with snakes. 
 The elusive character of the reptile is tlrst set forth ; their occasional good deeds ; the 
 tragic end of one is dwelt upon in the first chapter in a manner that will certainly bear 
 re-reading. We never realised until now how fond a snake is of music, nor of its 
 wdiiderful power of digestion. The book shows an immense amount of study, and -s 
 written in a manner calculated to impress the reader.' 
 
 JMily Chronicle. — ' We have read this book through from cover to cover, and cannot f<,r 
 the life of us make out whether it is meant as a huge and long-drawn joke, ophidian i:i 
 length and coiliness, or whether it is supposed to be a contribution to snake history 
 tempered by jocularity.' 
 
 Morning Advertiser. — ' Not only instructive, but most entertaining.' 
 
 The Eastei'n Morning News. — ' This is a second edition of a volume of stories illus- 
 trative of the habits and peculiarities of Australian and Fijian snakes. " Sundowner " 
 is evidently an expert in spinning yarns of an amusing and extraordinary character : 
 consequently " Snakes " is a book that the average boy will fully appreciate and enjoy. 
 The ordinary reader will, however, scarcely be suflQciently credulous to accept tiie 
 statements contained therein as absolute facts, but that circumstance need not interfere 
 with their hearty appreciation of the humour of the book. "Snakes" will probably 
 command a ready sale, as the lively style of the writer cannot fail to be appreciated.' 
 
 Weekly Irish Times.-'It is doubtful if the aspirant ophiologist will obtain much 
 reliable information from this amusing volume. We say this in spite of " Sundowner' >^ " 
 declaration in the preface as to the veracity of the contents of his book, for a perusal cf 
 tlie many wonderful stories he tells will not, we fear, do much to clear away the doubt 
 and suspicion with which the average snake story is regarded. But, taken as half joke 
 or all joke, "Sundowner's" book is well worth reading, and, even if we refuse to believe 
 the author's most stirring contribution to natural history, we must admire him for his 
 sense of humour and frequent defiance of the limits of his reader's credulity.' 
 
 Published at the Oflices of ZbC iCuropcaU /IRall (Limited), 
 Imperial Buildings, Ludgate Circus, London, E.C. 
 
1 
 
 ' I! 
 
 II! ! 
 
 i 
 
 UNDER the SANCTJON of the COMMITTER of the STOCK EXCHANOK 
 
 BURDETT'S OFFICIAL INTELLIGENCE FOR 1896. 
 
 lioiiiK a carefully rovlBcd pncls of informalloii rcuardiiit,' all cIhkhos of Ilrltish. Coloniiil 
 Amrrlciiii. and Korol^jii SoouritioH. CoiUilIiih partlciilarH of some h,(HK) undortakliii^H— incliul- 
 Inii (jovernmont, Corporation, Colonial, and Koreljjn HtockH; Itallways. llankH, Canals, Docks. 
 Klnctrlc rjlxhtint,', Financial, Oas, In.Juriince, Land, .Minos, Shipping. TcleKraphH, Tramways, 
 Waterworks, and othor Commercial and Indubtrlal Companlew, known totlio I^ondon Market. 
 and dealt in on the Principal KxchaniJOH. 
 
 2,127 pages price 42s., carriage extra, 
 
 POOLE'S UNITED KINGDOM STOCK & SHARE- 
 BROKERS' DIRECTORY FOR 1896. 
 
 Containing; inlorniatlon received direct from iilioiit '.iiD I'rlnclpul I'rovincial CltlPS and 
 rr)wns. Including tiie various Stock I'lxclianj^eH. witll thclrClntirmen. Coirinilttees. Secretaries, 
 farlnersiiips. ,vc.. in .Mphahetlcal Order ; also l(e(?i»tered 'I'eleKrapli Addresses and 'I'eleplione 
 Nirmhers. Explanatory Introductions will be found at the heiid of each Section. An Ap- 
 pendix la added which contains u Selected List for Iiondon. I'rice U. tut. net. 
 
 MEDICAL WORKS. 
 
 THE BRITISH PHARMACOPCEIA. Price 7.'<. jiost-free. 
 
 THE MEDICAL REGISTER. Price Is. M. post-free. 
 
 THE DENTISTS' REGISTER. Price )>. |iost-free. 
 
 THHl MEDICAL STUDENTS' REGISTER. Price 2.?. 9,/. post-free. 
 
 THE REGULATIONS FOR STUDENTS. Price 7,1. po-t-froc. 
 
 CLUBS FOR 1896. 
 
 A T,ist containinj,' the Names and Addresses of 2,000 Social, Yacht, Golf, and other Clubs 
 in London and the Counties of Great liritain and Ireland, in Korei«n Countries, and in the 
 llritish Colonies, iiy K. C. Al!STK.N Lrioii, M.A. l<'cap .^vo. Fourth Annual Edition. Price l.i. : 
 post-free, l.i. •Ml. 
 
 JANE AUSTEN. 
 
 rirA.PADES, ttc, written a hundred jear.^ ;\go. By Jask .\u.stkn and her Family. 
 With Introductory Note, IlIu.striition!>, and Portrait. Price 1«. (i'Z. ; po.st-free, l.«. 8rf. 
 
 1 vol. demy Hvo. cloth, price 10<. C'lt. 
 
 [In till' prrsH. 
 
 I 
 
 PEN, PENCIL, BATON, AND MASK: 
 
 Heing Articles on and Inrerviuws with Sixty Eminent Persons connected with the above 
 Illustrated with Six Full Page Portraits. 
 
 By HELEN C. BLACK, 
 
 Author nf ' Nolnhti' Women Aiilliom of llir Dmi,' ' Tiro U'Diwn't Tramp in South Africa.' 
 SKKTCllK.S AUK IXCLUDKD OF 
 I Georfio Alexander 
 Mrs. I'arr 
 K.C.LE,, Sir Augustus Harris 
 Sarah Grand 
 , Henry .\rthur .Tones 
 Mrs. Crokor 
 George K. Sims 
 Kate Terry (Jlrs. Arthur 
 
 Lewis) 
 Johnston Forbes-lJobertson 
 And many others 
 
 1 vol. Cloth, 926 pp. 10*. Si. , 
 
 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY AND RECHERCHE 
 
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 Containing np-to-date descriptions cf the following brandies :— Hors-d'CEuvres, Sonps, 
 
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 By CHARLES H. SENN, 
 
 Gold Medallist and Member of the Academic de Cuisine, Paris. 
 
 THIIRHD EDITIOIT. 
 
 Sir .Joseph Rarnby 
 
 IMiirie Corelli 
 
 Sir Edwin Arnold, 
 
 C.S.I. 
 :\Ii8K Kllen Terry 
 W. v.. Norris 
 Carlotta .\ddison 
 
 (Mrs. Lo Trobe) 
 Sir Henry Irving 
 Madame Albaul-Gye 
 
 Mrs. .\myot 
 
 F. C. Philips 
 Sophie Larkin 
 
 Dorothea Gerard (Madame 
 
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 William TerrlBS 
 Marion Terry 
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 Genevieve Ward 
 
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 NEW-STREET SQUARE, 
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LOLOMA 
 
 THE MOST VALUABLE DISCOVERY 
 
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 Strengthens and Beautifies the Hair. 
 
 Restores Grey or faded Hair to Natural Colour, 
 
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 REMOVES WRINKLES, ROUGHNESS, AND ALL 
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 16 
 
(. 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE SEASON. 
 
 SKCOND KDITION. 
 
 SNAKES. 
 
 Price 1*. 
 
 >^*^^^ 
 
 T?if Overland Mail, -' To anyone likely to take an interest i.; the reptilic reminis- 
 cences of a modest and religiously-inclitied member of the far-famed family of hatchot- 
 tlirowers, we can recommemi a little volume on "Snakes" and their peculiarities, just 
 is!^ne<l by Thf European Mail. The experiences of the author, "Sundowner" — own 
 brother, we should opine, to " Truthful Jamea," and a past master in the art of drawing 
 the long-bow— ure, to say the least, remarkable, and, but for the fact that he repeatedly 
 and earnestly impresses upon us that he is a man of a truthful and a serious mind, one 
 would be inclined to credit him witli virtues tending in a somewhat different direction. 
 . . . Whoever lays out a shilling on this humorous and amusing little brochure will hiive 
 to thiink its author for an hour's pleasant and lively reading, and will find no dilflculty 
 in believing his statement that he has " often been complimented on the accuracy aud 
 ' freshness ' of the matter which he places before the public from time to time." ' 
 
 African Reciete. — ' Is full of interesting and exciting stories about reptiles in the 
 Antii)odeB, and anyone in search of sensations, nightmares, and the like will find it a 
 veritable widow's erase in that line. A score or so of nightmares at a shilling arc 
 clieap.' 
 
 Ediiihurgh Evening News. — * Is devoted to the ways and manners of the Australian 
 snake in all his varieties. " Sundowner" is apparently versed in snakes, and those who 
 like a good creepy subject, and are not over critical as to a little use of the long-bow, will 
 appreciate tlie book.' 
 
 ,So«(/( African Empire.—'^ One of the most valuable contributions to " Snakeology " 
 that we have seen, and literally sparkles with fresh, and hitherto wholly unexpected, 
 Tacts about a subject whose turns aud twists the author has closely studied in Australia. 
 . . . Interesting, chatty, and very funny.' 
 
 Public Opinion.—' It is possible to got a good and invigorating half hour's entertain- 
 ment out of this volume. The serpent world is under a debt of gratitude to " Sun- 
 downer " for the graceful and complimentary recital of its sagacity.' 
 
 Jutroduetion. — ' " Sundowner's " genial and pleasantly written monograph on the 
 habitat and characteristics of snakes has, we are pleased to observe, attained to the 
 distinction of a second edition. The author, whether playful, hilarious, or serious, is 
 always amusing aud interesting, and is evidently facile princcpx of this absorbing 
 subject, which, as all the world knows, comes periodically to brigliten a dreary press 
 I luring the "big gooseberry " season. In this veracious chronicle of his own experi- 
 ence there is much of shrewd and wary observation, pithily expressed, and coloured by 
 an amiable fancy for natural incident and local surrounding, as well as exciting incidents 
 and hair-breadth escapes.' 
 
 Dominica Guardian. — ' It is an interesting and well-informed little work, both amus- 
 ing and instructive to those who would obtain information on the subject of which it 
 treats. . . . Has created a favourable impression.' 
 
 Jamaica Post. — ' This is a most enjoyable little book ; and it would be impossible to 
 take up a volume which would help to while away more pleasantly an idle hour or two. 
 " Sundowner" is a humorist of the first water ; and the fun of his remarks is all the 
 greater because of the exceeding gravity and earnestness of his literary style. No 
 professor's descriptions could be couched in more sober language ; and yet the reader 
 is kept smiling, or laughing, at the humour of the narrative from the first page to the 
 last, Mark Twain has rarely done anything better than " Sundowner " in this little 
 brochure, and we can cordially recommend it to all. Some of the incidents are scream- 
 ingly funny ; but the adventure with tlie black suase takes the cake.' 
 
 ^Sheffield Daily Telegraph. — ' A most readable book. ... If three-fourths of the con- 
 tents of "Snakes" is to be accepted as gospel, it is quite evident that the average 
 EngUeh reader has a great deal to learn about creeping things.' 
 
 The Glasgow Herald.— * The book is most amusing, though a sort of creepiness steals 
 i)ver the reader, and his hair is apt sometimes, like " Sundowner's" more accomplished 
 snakes, to stand on end.' 
 
 Published at the Offices of ^bC ]£uropean Aail (Limited), 
 Imperial Buildings, Ludgate Circus, London, E.G. 
 * It 
 
SPOTTISWOODE & CO 
 
 MAGAZINE, NEWSPAPER, BOOK, AND GENERAL PRINTERS, 
 NEW-STREET SQUARE, LONDON, B.C. 
 
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 ^■vy\/ v/x/^-'" 
 
 SPOTTISWOODE & CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE, LONDON 
 
 IH 
 
THE BOOK OF THE SEASON 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 IBy 'SUNOOIATINEIR.' 
 
 ^-'--^---•-^-'-- 
 
 C/i list inn Ag>. -*" Siuidownor'n" AntiiKxleaii snake yarns arc droll without a doubt 
 jet wo (iiieation whether he could anetinpsfully prove his descent from OeorKC Washinjftoii 
 It chuUengiid to do 8o. Be that as it may, from thcHo amusiiiK paKt!^ can bo sifted not n 
 few good t,'niin9 of interesting information coiicerniu? ''tlie habits and cnHtonis" ol' 
 Australian Huakes, which, by the way, "Hundowncr" libellouHly liitens to Australian 
 i)ecr for poiaouotisnesH. 
 
 South American Journal.—" There is much atnuaement to be derived from his story. 
 . . . Most of thu scenes of tliu sibory are laid in Auatraliu, the laud wncre the ladies wear 
 live snakes for j^'artcrs.' 
 
 th London ohsrrvfr. - 'In an au)usiiig companion for an idle half hour, despite the 
 prej, .ice against ti.e subject which some un reasonable persona may entertain.' 
 
 The Devon and Exeter Oatettt-.—* Intensely interesting. ... So extraordinary are some 
 of the stories related, that one luiglit almost be inclined to question their genuineness.' 
 
 shij>j/iii<j.—-One only re(iuires to read the preface to "Sundowner's " chatty and well- 
 informed little work on snakes to have both curiosity and appetite whetteti. ... A 
 contribution to snake history which will fill an hour of anybody's time with botii 
 profit and pleasure.' 
 
 T/if W'estfrn .I^nV (Cardiff ).—' A volume of stories of Australian snakes, pleasantly 
 told, and forming- an agreeable companion for an hour or so.' 
 
 I'rofetsor Utradliny, the well-known ophiologist, writes to the author :— ' I iiave read 
 your book on snakes with inmiense pleasure and interest/' 
 
 Mammon says : 'We like a good yarn when we can get one, and "Sundowner" give.'* 
 us plenty. Yet extraordinary as they may appear to the uninitiated, we must perforce 
 accept them as fact, because perhaps they are fact. At all events, anyone who wishes to 
 know everything about snakes will be able to learn it easily from this book.' 
 
 Thf Wf.itmiiixti'r Oazctte. — ' The knowledge of the average resident in these Islands 
 concerning reptiles of tliis class is not very sound, and a gentleman writing under the 
 name of "Sundowner" has published a little book intended to enlighten the benighted 
 Briton on the snbject. His experiences seem to have been gained principally in 
 Australia.' 
 
 I'ubl i*her.i' Circular.— "The volume consists of tales and experiences of reptiles in 
 Australia and the Pacific, and comes out at a time when, the habits of snakes are being 
 a goo<l deal discussed in the press.' 
 
 Sheffield Weekly Telegraph—" "■ Sundowner" gives some curious facts abont Australian 
 snakes.' 
 
 Antigua Standard. — * A wonderful little brochure, in which a praiseworthy effort has 
 been made to out-rival the much admired Baron Munchausen, whose versatility of 
 genius, even at this date, entitles him to remain top of the best of gentlemen who fee) 
 It a daty to see that the art of lying shall njt become only a point la ancient history.' 
 
 Published at the Offices of Cbe fiuropcail /RailJ(Limited), 
 
 Imperial Buildings, Ludgate Circus, London, E.G. 
 19 
 
\SON. 
 
 R. 
 
 I without ft doubt 
 Jorge Wiwhinf^ton 
 Ml IH) sifted not a 
 
 ttllCl CllHtOlUS " of 
 
 "M to AustrjiliHii 
 
 1 from his story, 
 e the ladies weiir 
 
 Jjour. despite the 
 L'rtuiii.' 
 
 •dinary are some 
 r genuineuess.' 
 
 chatty and vvtiU. 
 whettiNj. ... A. 
 time with botii 
 
 akes, pleasantly 
 :— ' I Iiave read 
 
 ulowiier"ffive.'* 
 3 must perforce 
 ; who wishes to 
 >k.' 
 
 a these islands 
 
 ;ing under tlie 
 
 the benighted 
 
 principally in 
 
 of reptiles hi 
 nkes are being 
 
 •nt Australian 
 
 thy effort has 
 versatility of 
 linen who fee) 
 nt history.' 
 
 mited).