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"s '^'^ AND Tiii-; rxiTi:;) statiis. \VII il 11! ; ^ |j,|.r>||; \ I IONS ANh M\ < MDNTIJKAL; ^^^ ( ) H T !i I ^.rn T ( ) N m:xi itdoi; 10 in)--!' m ri< i;. isor;, For preserving the Teeth. a> ■ H rr5 (15 1- • I -/ •5 \ AMERICAN HOUSE, Nos. 47 and 49 St. Henry Street, And 20, 22 and 24 St. Joseph Street, 5S-«?^'*?3»J3C5=- ^coKrT r i/ -"^^ well-known House has been enlarged by the rlL* /^'JIJ^o" of the House heretofore known as the Exchange itotei. 1 he whole has undergone extensive and thorough repairs and alterations, and has been newly furnished through- t, V? VPPJl'^'^or has taken great pains to provide every .1? i*'i ^^'J"' ^"®^^^' ^"<^ h»8 «"ed the House up with ail theHoM^^e" Improvements, including Gas in every Room in HOT AND COLD BATHS, And, in short all the requirements for a First-Class Hotel, Tniri ""T r '^^'^T^ to make the House a comfortable home for all who may favor him with their patronage. D.mp %%''?' P5«^;«»ity to Great St. James, McGill, Notre Dame, St. Paul ar.d all other principal business Streets of the na%i«!! ?'?' '^' ^^"^^**' ^'^^'^"^'^ ^^th regard to the princi- ftli? ? fu^'V"^^'!'.^ •'**'*'"^ ''^^^^ »t cannot fail to command Itself to the favorable notice of parties travelling for pleasure ^fJ^v. !?''t ^*'^''^«' "^ attendance at the Depot and steamboat Landings. ^ C. « BROWNE, Proprietoij, t .! d W. IlINST & U ,n BOOKSELLERS, STATIONERS, ^ — AHp — (^¥^'4 liq m mmi i ? PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Views of the City GUIDE BOOKS ; NOVELS ; POSTAGE AND BILL STAMPS, 27 GREAT ST. JAMES ST. (Opposite the Post Office,) ^ ii >■*. »8#,1?:<««.'^«gW«?!?w--'s«' R. WOKTHINGTON, BOOKSEILER AND STATMNER, [Opposite St. LaWreiice Hall, and next door to Post OfficoJ MOJNTUEAl., HAS ALWAYS ON HAND, A LARUE STOCK 01'^ BOOKS, ALBUMS, STATIONERY, &c. FOK « ALE CIIKAP. N. K.— R. W. pnblishes the followirug Books : — ( i ariic';i us Histury of Canada. ^::J . 00 (.'hriMties d<> do do J. 00 Arteiuus Ward, '' His Book". (i . 25 do do ^ 'His Travels" 0.50 Biglow Papers;L.{.... ..:^'. o......... 0.2S[^iv^ Harp of (Janajin, by Borthwick 1.00 Ad voca to ; ; i No veh; by H eavys^e 0.50 Two Wives of the Kitig; by Paul F^val... 0.50 Sent frcii t<> any part of Canada Op reoeij^of Price. f ./ „f ■ It DR. ll:§diS^silY'S HOP FOR ALL KINDS OF * Coui'hs.ColdsjBronchitisjAsthmajWhoop. log Cough, Consumption and Yomltlng of Blood. Bead what the Clergy say about it : Ist-That iKe REV. CHARLBS LENOIR, Priest of the Seminary of St. Sulpice and Director of tbo College of Mon- treal three years ago suffered from a Disease of the Lungs and a constant Cough, so that his state of health was regarded by every one as rery alarming. . » ^ v T^' m 2nd —That the gentleman having been treated by Dr. lilo- bensky. and having taken the medicine which he prescribed at that period, fdt better immediately; the illness disappeared little by little ; the cough ceased, and although he has not a a very strong constitution, he has been able for nearly two years regularly to engage in his ordinary avocations. Montreal, January, 1860. A. MBRCIER, P{«f • N B.— This letter has been given with the sanction of the iiev. D. Granet, Superior of the Seminary of St. Sulpice. jExtractfrom a Letter of the REV. J. A. DEVINE, M.J. Dr. GL6bEN>KY, Montreal Mt Dkab Doctor, # * o m»i . ,, j It gives me sincere pleasure to be able to record my appreciation of your skilf^il treatment of my Bronchial aflfec- lou. Deeply seated for many months before 1 placed my- self unfler your care, I am sure it will gratify you to learn that you have accomplished a complete cure. ^ • Hu.i. ^J. A. DEVINE M..^., MoNTRT5Aft, 11th Sept., 1865^ 1241 Dcrchesttr Street WeU. This Syrup is prepared only by B. GLOBfexSKY, M D., and so^ld by GliOBBNSKY, SOlff & CO , Chemists & Druggists, No. 21 Jacques Gartler Square, Montreal, and by all Druggists. price wdi^ noiiie, $i,wi> nnii ai»c, w vA>ii«o« rrTRADB DISCOUNT ALLOWED TO MERCHANTS .^ ./ \' B .\ »m SCOTTISH nn PROVINCIAL ASSURANCE CflMPW BSTABLWHIID 18J5. ^t . ^ hcorporattd by Imperial Acl of Parliament. CAPITAL INVBSTBI) in CANADA ONK MILLION STERLING j500,000. ' . i CANADA; _^ ^ ^ HEAD OFFICE, MONTREAI-. DIRECTORS : «UGH TAYLOR, Esq., Advooatk. HON. CHAIJLES WfLSON, vl.L.C. WILLIAM SACHB, Esq , Banker. JACKjSON RAE, Esq., Bankkb. Inspector of Jgenciea—T. W. MEDLEY. Secretary^A. DAVIDSON PARKER. OFFICE, PLACE DVARMES, MONTRU.AL. LIFE DEPARTMENT. ' :: Attention is directed to the rate of Premium adopted^by this Company, which will compare favorably with that ol any othersirailar Instiiution in Canada. Assurances may be el- fected at any age from 15 to TO Investment of the Company s Funds to the large amount of ;« '' FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND DOIiliRS HAS BERN COMPLETE IW CANADIAN SBCURITIB8: • And as all-business transactions are finally disposed of in the Province, the " SCOTTISH PROVINCIAL" offers all the facilities presented by a purely local Company, while it posses- ses the additional advantage of a large capital and an inHuen- tial and responsible body of Shareholders in Great Britain. SURRENDER VALUB OF LIFE POLICIES. Under Policies of not less than tWee years' daration, effect- ed for whole term of Life and at uniform rates, a large return of at least 40 per cent, of ordinary premiums paid, will .be allowed in the event of the Assured relinquishing the Bume. A nAxTTnenv padttwr • ' Residint ^tcretary. fi> '( i < \ IP I MAGNUS' H AN D-BO( )K OF TKAVEL, AND TOURIST'S GUIDE xnnoxTca-ic (^^mU mi the %mUA f t»te^. WITH Fifty Illustrations and Maps, \ 'O MONTREAL: PUBLISHED BY K. WORTIIINUTON, 30 GREAT 8T. JAMKS STRE8T. 1866. 'M ns^wm 1 ) ( \f" s i i I X k ) "SSii^^mHmF- ri h fv '.;r''--«MKf^p^';T"; r:-35Sa\ £¥ PuWiahed WCiarle'a' Magnus ,12 franM^uJe^b^' : «,.^..i. -^ w" J ..jLi... n t CONTENTS. Page. Niagara and Falls, * Fails to Hamilton, ^ Hamilton, 10 Falls to Toronto, 13 Toronto, 13 London, C. W 17 Toronto to Colingwood, 1'9 Lake Simcoe, 26 Toronto to Kingston, 28 Kingston,.... 35 Lake Ontario, U. S. Shores, 40 Kmgston to Montreal, 44 The Thousand Islands, 45 Montreal, 54 The Ottawa, 76 Montreal to Quebec, 87 Three Rivers — Falls of Shawenegan, 88 Quebec and Environs, 92 Trip to the Saguenay, 130 Quebec to Richnaond, (Railway) 135 ^ f Tf ir. CONTENTS. Page. Montreal to Richmond, (Railway) 137 Richmond to Gorham, (do) 141 The White Mountains, 155 Conclusion, 165 APPENDIX. Canadian Census, 167 Agricultural Statistics, 172 Manufactures, 175 Imports and Exports, 182 Customs Revenue, • 182 Statistical View of Exports and Imports, 183 Shipping, 184 Gross Revenue for 1855, 185 Bank Imposts — Average Circulation and Duty Paid, . . 187 Cost of Various Public Works, 188 Canals, 1 90 Railways — Tables of Distances, 198 it, Hew- 1 !^ ;^» Page. 137 141 155 165 167 172 175 182 182 183 184 185 Paid,.. 187 188 190 ,. 198 i J. w .^x.(\f\. Published by Cha^ Magrnis^ W? .1^ Frankfort S!, New York. 1 N intr It the re are rho, a >outh( idustr ikes a he w( jrande [row nil Ihe trr breign >etwee 'enowr rhich ! —a sci he m( Ve ca ireseni nough Doking fiomen |verwl I I t tr 'h^J THE CANADIAN TOUftlST. In introducing our readers to the fair Province of Canada |t the Falls of Niagara, we do so because it is there that re are first enabled to welcome the great tide of tourists, rho, annually fleeing from the summer heats of the jouthern and Western States, or the cares of the busy idustry of the sea-board, commence the tour of the ikes and cities of the colony — and assuredly no country in he world is entered through portals of such unspeakable rrandeur. True, no passports are he e to be viserl, — no frowning battlements, guarded by the jealous sentry, stop le traveller's progress, and mark his entrance into a foreign land ; but nature herself has marked the boundary )etween two kindred and friendly people by these world- [enowned Falls, offering to the eye of the gazer a scene rhich neither pencil nor pen has yet adequately delineated, scene which in its awful grandeur can never fade from [he memory, but with the dissolution of memory itself, ''e can but bid the tourist gaze, listen and be silent, in presence of the grandest of nature's works. Singularly lOugh as it may seem, the prevailing feeling, on first )oking on the Falls of Niagara, is — disappointment, y !■■« " *■-,■-' iAH d li.S U. s 2 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. the Sreadtl.,tl,e depth, the volume -in short, the i...mcn,ity t the sc:ne reveals-there U, beside,, noth.ng that we have ever seen or dreamt of that by comparison .nay a,d u and the consequence is, that it is hours and days even, before eye, and ear, and sense begin to reahse or compre- bend the full grandeur of the whole. Tho„-'h we -y not attempt the description, we shall offer a few facts as to the river and scenery, wh.ch, we doubt not, will prove of interest and service to the tour.st -as well for present guidance as for future refcrence-- availing ourselves for this purpose of a few paragraphs from "Roy's History of Canada,"-a very unpretending little work, which contains an excellent account of the country in its past and present condition. « Whilst travelling over the few intervening miles before reaching the Falls, you can, by looking upwards, see the calm waters in the distance, whilst nearer they swell and foam, and recoil, and seem to be gathering up all their force for the mighty leap they are about to make. Mrs. Jan^eson, when speaking of them, says in her own beautiful manner, ' The whole mighty river comes rushing over the brow of a hill, and, as you look up at it, seems as if coming down to overwhelm you ; then meeting with the rocks as it pours down the declivity, it boils and frets like the breakers of the Ocean. Huge mounds of water, smooth, transparent, and gleaming like an emerald, rise wp and bound over some impediment, then break into silver foam, which leaps into the air in the most graceful and fantastic forms.' n imensity that we may aid | lys even, compre- , we shall ^hich, we ;he tourist fcrence — aragraphs iretending mt of the nng miles r upwards, Ejarer they ithering up it to make, in her own nes rushing it it, seems leeting with | its and frets 1 is of water, | jrald,riseup I \s. into silver I '•raceful and THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 8 " The Ilorseshof; or Canadian Fall is not quite circular, hut is marked by projections and indentations which give amazing variety of form and action to the mighty torrent. There it falls in one dense mass of green water, calm, unbroken and resistless 5 here it is broken into drops, and falls like a shower of diamonds, sparkling in the sun, and at times it is so light and foaming that it is driven up again by the currents of air ascending from the deep below, where all is agitation and foam. ** Goat or Iris Island, which divides, and perhaps adds to the sublimity of the Falls, is three hundred and thirty yards wide, covered with vegetation. The American Fall^ which is formed by the east branch of the river, is smaller than the British, and at first sight has a plain and uniform aspect. This, however, vanishes as you come near, and, though it does not subdue the mind as the Canadian one does, it fills you with a solemn and delightful sense of grandeur and simplicity. It falls upwards of two hundred feet, and is about twenty feet wide at the point of fall, spreading itself like a fan in falling. " An ingenious American has thrown a curious wooden bridge across this Fall to Goat Island, which you cross only a very few yards above the crest of the cataract. Passing by it, and crossing the island, you reach the extremity of the British Fall on its eastern side. Here a piece of timber projects about twelve feet over the abyss, on which you can stand safely, and view the waters as they rush by, whilst the spray dashes over you, and your fraii support quivers under your feet. Here you sisjr II 19 i ^j 1 1 " i t gfe-. Ill l.xlt 4 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. follow the course of the waters as they roll from the n.de confusion below you, and spread themselves out .nto br.ght. curling, foaming, green »nd white waves. J o some per- sons, nothing :.t the Falls appears so beaut.ful as the columns of mist, which soar from the foaming abyss, and .hroud the broad front of the great Hood, whilst here^^and there rainbows peep out from the mysterious curiam. The River Niagara, which is only thirty-three and . half miles long, forms the connecting link between Lake. Erie and Ontario-the latter lake being three hundred and thirty-four feet below the level of the former. Above the Falls, at Table Rock, the descent has been found to be fifty-one feet, and from the boiling basin below the llorse- Snoe Fall to the level of Lake Ontario one hundred and nineteen, which thus leaves one hundred and sixty-four feet of a perpendicular fall. So far then es mere he.ght « cor cerned, the Fal',3 of Niagara are not the highest m the world. But let the spectator reflect, while the solid earth trembles under his feet, while gazing on the phlegethon of .eething waters lashed into one sheet of foam beneath, that int°o that cauldron are precipated the drainage of th« immense territories which surround Lakes Superior.Huroo, Michigan and Erie ; lakes, or rather seas, which, in their aggregate, cover ninety-two thousand square miles— that all this mass is compressed o- forced to flow withm a channel little, if any, over a single mile in breadth, and that here, after being roused into frightful tumult by the rapid« above, the whole, amid its own thunders, plunges at one bound to seek repose in the placid bosom of Lake Ontario. be rude 3 bright, ime per- as the yss, and lere and am. iree and sn Lakef hundred . Above and to be 16 Horse- idred and -four feet height i« lest in the solid earth gethon of 1 beneath, age of tlie ior,Huroo, ch, in their niles — that Y within a th, and that J the rapids loes at one ,ke Ontario. THE CANADIAN TOtiRIST. Tniaginatioii fails to realise the immensity of what the eye gazes upon, and we begin to comprehend why Niag- ara is so unspeakably superior to any thing else of its kind in the known world. Add to this, for t!ie purpose of aiding tho fancy of the practical man, that, by calcula- tions based upon the depth of the water below Lake Erie, forty-two feet, and its rapidity immediately above the falls, twenty-miles an hour, it is ascertained with sufficient cor- rectness that six hundred thousand tons pass over the Falls of Niagara every minute ! Below the Falls the formation of the banks, which are upwards of three hundred feet high, force the river abruptly from its direct course, and it« waters are again tortured, still seething from the basin above, into a wild whirlpool, which, though in a very different style, is a spectacle of surpassing wonder. Into this everything that has passed over the Falls is irresistibly swept, and from the vortex nothing seems to escape, as 'f it had been specially destined to destroy all trace of what had existed above — animate or inanimate — that nothing might emerge to reveal the mysteries of that dread- ful plunge. Here, in a heaving and whirling basin, sur- rounded by high dark foliaged banks, which throw a gloomy shadow beneath, the wreck of all that passes over is churned and ground to pieces ; and here, for several days successively, the dead bodies of drowned men have been seen by the horror-struck spectators, whirled round and round, with outstretched arms as if still struggling to escape from the strikin % *o> black abyss. " The Whirlpool" is indeed a but a dismal scene. Visit it, gentle reader, by ' >' •^^^i^^ii^sS ■p-iblished bv Cha^ Magnus .N? IgFranl-rfort S!, NevfYork. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 11 Lake Ontario, with which it communicates by the Burling- ton canal, above mentioned, Itisthn inland place of import and export for one of the finest and most extensive agricul- tural districts on the continent, and, as a natural conse- quence, is rapidly rising in importance. In IS^o it con- tained only six thousand five hundred inhabitants, now it numbers upwards of twenty thousand, having thus more than trebled its population in ten years. The streets are wide and well laid out, while the beautiful freestone, of which the houses are built, gives the whole an appearance of beauty and solid wealth rarely equalled. Indeed, some of the more recently built stores have an appearance of palatial elegance which we have never seen surpassed. The completion of the Great Western Railway within the last year has added another sure element of greatness to this rising and beautiful city ; placing it in rapid com- munication with the many thriving towns in its rear, as well as with the far west by D.^troit, and by the Suspension Bridge at Niagara with the whole system of railway communication in the State of New York. The wharves, machine-shops and station of this railway, on the bay, are on a very extensive scale, and most substantially executed at an enormous expense, — an expense, however, which the great trade on the road fully justifies the foresight of the directors in having undertaken. Indeed, though only in its first year of operation, it is already found inadequate to the growing demands of the trade, and a double line of rails is about to be laid down, while, at the same time, the communication '.y lar'-oad to Toronto, and thence by the 1 '? I i^ 'f^kmmm m J2 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Grand Trunk to Montreal and Portland, will complete it» communications, at all seasons of the year w.tl. the sea- board and the Lower Trovinces. Thus happ.ly placed the ambition of the good people of HamiUon may well look forward to the day when their city shall be the queen of Canada West-which is in reality the a.m of he.r efforts. It supports five newspapers. In the ne.ghbourhood of the city there are numerous fine drives. Among others we would recommend the tourist to visit the mouuta.n «. rear of the city, from which a magnificent panorannc v.ew is obtained of the bay. Lake Ontario, and the surrouudmg hills which skirt the head of this lake, to the rear and west of Dundas, forming a picturesque and romantic landscape not to be excelled. Hamilton is not only of great .mpor- tance as a commercial city, as the outlet to a vast agricul- tural country to the West, and depot for the millions of bushels of wheat and barrels of flour collected on .ts ' wharves, but its ex(ensive foundries, carriage establish- ments, and various other manufactories, render it one ot the most flourishing cities in Western Canada. F.ve miles further westward, in a valley adjacent to the Great Western Railway, lies the manufacturing town of Dundas, and which is also connected with Ilamdton by the Desjardin Canal. Leaving Hamilton in the morning for Toronto by either of the fine steamers that now ply on this route, the traveller reaches his destination in about two hours and a , .« .. 1 i. u,„v^, />,«itr fnrfxr-fivp miles. The boats hall — the uisLaucu ucmj^Omj x^^.v^ — on their trips sail pretty near the Canadian shore, THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 13 ►mplete its :h the sea- lily placeil may well ! the queen m of their fhbourhood long others iiouiitain in )ranHC view sui'i'ouniling ar and west c landscape ;reat impor- rast agricul- t millions of xted on its re eslablish- er it one ot nada. Five the Great n of Dundas, Iton by the nto by either s route, the 3 hours and a . The boats ladian shore > and a good view is atVorded of a country of great beauty, though without any marked features of natural scenery to attract notice. There are, however, seen, in succession, the towns or villages of Wellington Square, Oakville, and Port Credit. In the neighbourhood of the last there is an Indian reserve, belonging to the Missisagua Indians, extending for one mile on each side of the river Credit. Their village was built by Government in 1825. They have a Methodist chapel and a school attached, besides a warehouse at the Port. It is gratifying to mention that the Indians here possess JG1350 of the stock of the company that built the harbour at an expense of £2500, which might be so improved as to be rendered capable of affording refuge for any number of ships. The Falls to Toronto. Travellers desirous of leaving the Clifton House at Niagara Falls for Toronto flirect, may take the Erie and Ontario Railway, which is fourteen miles long, for the town of Niagara. Thence they have opportunities twice a day by the elegant steamers Peerless and Zimmerman to embark for Toronto. The time occupied between the Falls and Toronto is usually about an hour and a half. Toronto is at present the largest and most populous city of VYestern Canada. The people of the place themselves say that ere long it will be the largest city in British America. i^ 14 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Hamilton, winch tl.ey call the ambitious /i«//c city, dis- putes this boast, and asserts that that honour is for their rising community. In the i.ioantime, both of them have to catch Montreal, which is by no means inclined to wait for them in the race of progress. Be that as it may, the progress of Toronto has been, and continues to be, very great. Not quite sixty years ago, only two Indian families resided on the place where the noble city now stands and the commerce t no fewer than anks have been good share of t)lic and private >y a good repn- ious. W; might direct the tourist's attent.on to other plaes „„ This route, Chatham and Woodstock .n part.cular but wiU be more forcibly attracted by the nch bltifu, appearance of the country through wh.ch nasses and thence easily understand how so many Ce and opulent villages and cities are presented to w nhservation-c.ties whose influence, in a commeroal „t of "w is increasingly felt not only in Boston and Cw Yo rbut in the moi'distant m.rlce.s of the wor d fo owing the riches that can buy and the facUt.es fo ^Zthe necessaries and luxuries of the world are to be Sin abundance in this y. t barely opened country. Toronto to Collingwood. Returning to Toronto, where we have now congregated J.tders"from so many different .ua.ters, w^ n.sUn .11 ;r fnr nn other reason, siai l mercy to the hotel-keepers, if tor no oin.i , TfJ-iends on their eastward wanderings; b^t not^l we t:;;y:°?hisC-i.. now offered by tUOn.ri. Simcoe and Huron Railway, wh.ch runs « ^ ^-*; f direction, a distance of ninety-s.x mdes, to the nevUy rndedlownofColUngwood^onKotta^^^^^^^^ this route the country, as far as La.e S«nco , ^ good view is obtained ^^^ ^2: ^^^^'^ the soil is generally excellent ; bat aricr pa^«" .- Landing, fhe road is almost -t.e.y ^ - * ^^ Collingwood itself is rather a town m esse tnan ,^. 1- ! f i^ 20 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. ,111 ,l.im r..U » . ..IJ- "• " " ' a,, .umb.. ^„J will,;. ll« P"l ?••'. "', ;' 'cM..,o .nJ which daily ply to these places, besides iwo ; i h trade o Sault Ste. Marie, at the entrance of Lake S erior. In fact this route is rapidly gr.v.ng m p«bl c ?:;:„:, as will beeasHy understood when it .s —ed that the saving of distance from New York, Boston or P t!;d ./oswego, Toronto, and CoHingwood o Chicago or Mi,^«l^.^no.esstan^^^^^^^^^^ ;:;o:tir^This::LraS-^^ with passengers and freight-the 'atter, ow.ng to tb^ operation of the reciprocity treaty, ■"---Sl" jj^f ^ lerly unlooked for. The distance from Toron o to CoUingwood is accomplished in four hours, and. be ^ade> will consult the map, he will perce.ve that the , J f *v.^ V-ir West has, m this tourist or emigrant hound for the Far VV est , brief time, cut off from his journey the -l""«;«^- .opge up Lake Erie, Detroit River, Lake and River St Clair, with all the lower half of Lake Huron. The immense advantages of the road are thus summed up by riively and observing correspondent of an American paper, the International Journal :— THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 21 •aae now years are and that treets, it leen only \ number -ago and eamboats, tber boats e of Lake f in public mentioned Boston or DTWood to Ired miles, fatigue in 'owded the mwg to the [0 a degree Coronto to and, if the re that the has, in this ole tedious and River uron. The nmed up by n American I *^ ;a ihp rf^ult of Canadian «The CoUingwood route .s the result oj Canadian ^^^^^^^l^^ expence. and L,Ues, --"Sei^^:'^- ;^ „u,e importance to ship- increased comfort- acb o ^^^^ ^^ ^ "t: »w r5.C»' ■• " "" ""• e-astern cities, marKeu via /» ^ James ISi. rrr\:i:trrs;ot:rp:;r:;de..and established. *» -ur^^^f^^,^^^^^^^ ,,,,,eciate the impor- "^"":; ;r S ^ -ists trlveUing for pleasure *""" t s Iflualled attractions, ' as, (to quote a good „„st »f /«;;7;;" „„ ,,, entire line will be performed .„,hor.ty) n.glt tra.do ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^.^.^ passed am.dst the suj^^ ^^^.^^^^ ,,, M,„ito„U„ emhracmg the b ra.^ o ^^.^^.^^ j^,^^^, „f r^n ty ?he Brchroute connecting wlthLaWe C'^g^'e; access to all the hitherto little explored magnificence of that reg.on. ^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^, To the foregomg remarKS, i/vui i^ „ , „„trv we .events of wealth and progress m ^^^ ,^ .dd a few extracts from one of a series oi :i.T. r. ill ii I i^ n THE CANADIAN TOURIST. vels only a part of the road by the railway, which in fact was not finished at the time of his visit in 1854.. To those inclined to see a little rough life and the wild sports of the Canadian rivers and lake shores, the articles in mackwood will be found exceedingly interesting ^meantime we present the reader with one or two speci- mens from this author's pages. Leaving Toronto, he says : ^' I have seldom seen a more smiling, prosperous-look- ing district than that through which we passed on our way to'' Lake Simcoe. Substantial farm-houses, with neat well-built offices, were planted in the midst of orchards and gardens, and afforded presumptive evidence that their thriving occupants had reaped many rich harvests from the acres of waving corn-fields through which we sped, and upon which not even a stump was left to i mind the rail- way traveller how short a time had elapsed since the solitary Indian was the only wayfarer through the silent and almost impenetrable forists that then clothed the country. Now, there is little to distinguish it from many parts of England. Snake fences are certainly not so agreeable a feature in a landscape as hedge-rows, and there is an unfinished look about the cultivation, and a want of economy of land, which would probably scandalize an English agriculturist. However, although land has become very valuable in most of the counties of Upper Canada, it is not yet so precious as to call for an exercise of the same ingenuity for rendering it elastic which is pCtS^liiSCU Fii Wi VTT2E UVUUV2 js :il THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 23 ih in fact n 1854^. and the hores, the nteresting ;wo speci- rous-look- )n our way with neat r orchards that their vests from i sped, and id the rail- since the the silent lothed the from many aly not so 3-rows, and tion, and a ' scandalize h land has s of Upper an exercise c which is I " In two hours and a half we reached Grasspoint, a ^llaoc upon the shores of Lake Simcoe, where a small ;eamer was waiting to convey us to Orillia. The lake is ludded with islands, and well settled, though the scenery nowhere striking. A channel so narrow that it is lanned by a bridge connects Lake Simcoe with Lake uchiching. Passing through it, we wind among wooded lands until we reach the beautifully situated settle- nt of Orillia, containing a church and number of neat bite houses and stores, altogether a perfect specimen of |)ackwood village in rather an advanced stage." I From Orillia, the author with his companions, four in Lber passed in two birch bark canoes down the Severn, distance of about sixty miles, to Georgian Bay and nee to Collingwood by steamer. The river is naviga- only for canoes, and, except by sr.ortsmen, is as yet rarely visited, <' Tn our eyes, its solitary character and the romantic scenery on its banks were its principal attractions. i&vmg reduced our luggage to the smallest possible di|iensions, and put our fishing-tackle into good order, it oSy remained for us to make ourselves comfortable by spfeading a quantity of plucked fern and juniper branches he bottom of our canoes. B. and I reclined sumptu- ly in one, with about as much accommodation as a ship's mock would afford to two moderately stout individuals, wever, as we were less likely to upset by being so ely jammed together that we could scarcely move, we tiilame reconciled to our position between Booaquttm «. 1 . jU 24 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. (« Thunderbolt"), who knelt at the bows and paddled, and his brother Kabeshquum ("Triumphant"), who steered. The other canoe contained Captain A—, whose experience in such expeditions and knowledge of the Indian character and language were most valuable— and Babehwum ('* Snow-storm"), whose son, as an exem- plification of the effect of civilization over the elements, called himself simply John Storm. As the wind was fair, we rigged our blankets upon sticks cut for the purpose ; and, with all sail set, we glided rapidly on, sometimes threading our way through narrow channels, past low wooded islands, until in about two hours we found our- selves upon the green waters of the Severn. " Lake Siracoe is the highest of the Canadian lakes, havino- an elevation of seven hundred feet above the level of the sea. The scenery at the point of debouchure was rery beautiful. Masses of rich variegate«l foliage clothed the banks, and bent over until the river rippled among th<» leaves. Often dark shadows reached across it, or were chequered by sunbeams glancing through the branches upon the clear and singularly light-coloured water. As we proceeded, we exchanged for the calm surface of the lake, and the islands which seemed to rest on its bosom, rock and rapid, until at last the torrent became too tumul- tuous for our frail canoes. Meantime we had not been engaged only in enjoying the beauties of nature, we had adopted the usual mode of trolling in this part of the world with copper-spoons, which, twisting rapidly through tlie ivater, formed a bright and attractive bait ; so that^ upon THR CANADIAN TOURIST. 25 arrivng .t the first portage, we congratulated ourselves upon the prospect of lunchhig off half-a-dozen black bass, we>gh,ng from two to five pounds each ; while the Indians were engaged in culinary preparations. " We were up before daylight on the following morning and, after a good fish breakfast, were again on our way.' I had scarcely thrown in my trolling-line, when it was nearly jerked out of my hand by a most unexpected and violent tug. A bark canoe is not the most convenient place from which to play a large fish ; and in my inexpe- rienced eagerness I hauled away pretty steadily, bringing to the surface with some difficulty a fine maskelonge, weigh- ing at least twenty-five pounds. He came splashing and plunging up to the side of the canoe, and I had lifted him out of water when the hook gave way, and I lost as fine a fish as I ever had at the end of a line. However I was consoled soon after by taking some fine pickerel, weighing from five to eight pounds each ; and before luncheon hooked another maskelonge, when B., profitting by ex- perience, was ready with his gaff-hook, and jerked him most scientifically into the canoe, much to the delight of the Indians. Though not nearly so large as the first, he was a respectable fish, weighing- about eighteen pounds. The scenery m th« place was bold and rocky, the banks often lofty and precipitous, and the current alwa- , strong with an occasional rapid. We lunched at a portage, which we were obliged to make in order to avoid the falls of the Severn, which are about twenty-five feet in height, and ai..ound<,d. by fine scenery. There are rapids above and a3 t. n 5 -i 26 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. below the falls, so that the difference of level between the upper and lower banks of the portage is not less than fifty feet." We regret that we cannot make room for more extracts from these interesting " Notes oa Canada and the North West States," but we do the next best thing by recom- mending the articles themselves to the perusal of our readers, and in addition offer the following remarks of a late traveller on Lake Simcoe. " In our recent visit to Toronto we accepted an invita- tion from the agent of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad to visit Lake Simcoe. The running of the trains and the steamer on the lake is so arranged that th« citizens of Toronto can leave town in the morning, enjoy a most delightful sail around the lake and return home in the evening:. Preferring: to take matters a little more leisurely, we left Toronto for Barrie on Friday evening at half past three o'clock. The first thing that surprised us was the amount of travel going over the road. It was not the evening for the passengers to take the steamer for Milwaukie and Chicfxgo, and yet there were fourlarg« cars filled with passengers. Their appearance and con- versation showed them to be farmers and business men- who had visited Toronto during the day on business and were returning after their days traffic. Barrie is a fine thriving town situated at the head of Kempenfelt Bay, the western arm of Lake Simcoe. .1 ' THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 27 » .1 ] There is an excellent hotel there kent by a fine specimen of a Canadian Boniface, When the heats of next summer are upon us, we know of no place we would sooner recom- mend to our citizens for a summer retreat for a few montliji than Barrie. The air is pure and bracing, the water ex- cellent, the fishing and hunting all that could be desired and Barrie needs only to be known to become a crowded summer resort. During the past summer a very fine steamer, the /. C. Morrison, has been built, more espe- cially to accomodate the pleasure seekers from Toronto and others cities. There is also some trade around the lake which she is designed to accommodate. The lake itself is a perfect gem " of the purest water" surrounded with forests, with here and there an island reposing upon its quiet bosom. It is some fifty or sixty miles long by thirty wide, and taken all in all, is said to be one of the most beautiful lakes in North America. As our noble steamer bore us along we could not help imagining its quiet waters vexed by the trade of the Northwest if the Geoi-gian Canal should hereafter make it a highway for the commerce of the West. If it should be constructed so as to pass vessels of a thousand tons burthen, scores of steamers will pass through this beautiful lake bearing to and from the sea- board the immense traffic of the upper Mississippi Valley. The steamer Morriso?t is commanded by Capt. Fraser, who is well worthy of the important position with which hp is pnfiMicforl ^ 28 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Our trip norrh ended at Orilia, a snug little town at the foot of the lake. The railroad from the lake to Toronto crosses* the ridges, and we wonder not that those who have j);i;ised over it regard the project of constructing a Ship Canal from Lake Simcoe to Toronto as wild and chimerical. For some reason — a good one no doubt — the raihoad is not located up the valley of the Humber and across the low ridge found between it and the Holland hy Mr. Tully. The route for the canal is west of the raihoad." Torouto to Kingston. Returning from the backwoods and wild scener} of the North, and having enjoyed the rest and luxuries of a night at RussePs Hotel, we resume our journey to the East on board of one of the comfortable Lake steamers. On this voyage, as before, the vessel kc^cps the Canadian shore, to use the nautical expression^ " well on board," so that the fully settled country, with its cleared farms and cheerful houses and barns, passes like a panorama before the eye. The pretty town of Port Hope has a good har- bour, though no great depth of water, and having also excellent water power, it promises to become of considerable manufacturing importance ; even now its hydraulic power is made available for the machineiy of numerous extensive mills, breweries^ distilleries, cloth, iron and leather manufactures. In addition to these a laro-e trade in lumber has. nf latp vphtc cnmno' ii»^ f'^ u» cxpori THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 29 to iho United States. Its present population is upwards of three thousand. The trade with the United States is also rapidly increasing, not only indeed from it, but from all the ports along tlie lakes in Upper Canada, and from the Lower Province, as will be seen when we come to speak of the (3ttawa and the St. Maurice. Tort Hope IS about sixty.f.ve miles from Toronto, and seven miles further down lies Cohourg, which has a remarkably fine appearance from the lake. The Town of Cobourg is built upon a gently risin- ground, on a dry gravelly soil, and is exceedin-lv health/ Its present population is nearly five thousand. ° Dore are the most extensive cloth manufactories in the Province, —there are also considerable manufactures in iron' leather and marble, with mills, breweries and distilleries J and the general business activity of the place is -reat The country in rear is rich in all the productions of acrn'cul- ture, besides iron, marble and timber. It has daily communi- cation with Peterboro' by railroad, tbirty miles, where a large lumber business is carried on. The principal buildings in Cobourg are the Jail and Court House a little way out of town, and the Victoria College, whicb was estabh-shed in 1842, by Act of the Provincial Legislature, with power to grant degrees in the arts and sciences. Al-' though built under the direction of the Wesleyan Metbo- dists,it is entirely free from sectarianism. At Port Hope or Cobourg we would recommpnd --uch as are disposed to see the country, to leave tbe boatand take tbe land journey thence through a fine country, to the mm I niiii'WIjliliiij, u. I i t I I 30 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. head of the Bay of Quinte. Tins fs a most singular arm 01 l.ake Ontario-commencing nearly at Kingston, and running m a zig-zag course, between fertile and beautiful banks for eighty-miles, it nearly rejoins the lake at its western extremity, and forms the beautiful peninsula of itwce Edward. Sometimes this remarkable bay contracts Its waters into channels scarcely a quarter of a mile in breadth, and again suddenly opens out into broad lake-like basms. The shores are thickly settled, and in many places he situations are of great beauty. Several fine streams discharge their waters into the Bay, of which the Trent after a winding course of nearly one hundred miles from' li.ce Lake, is the principal. By this river a very hvt in ( 'an;i(la. It lias albO a large foundry and hhop Tor the manulacturc of locomotives. Kingston returns one member to Parliiunent. Tlie University of Qunen's College, situated at King- ston, v.as founded by Royal (Jhiuter of Her present IMost Cxrarious Mijesly, IGth October, 1811, and is supported by rarlianientary grants, and endowments contributed by private liberality, it cotiiprises Faculties of Theology, Arts, and Medicine, and has a stalTof eleven professois. Tlie College, which is a large and handsome building, is on a rising ground fronting the lake. It has a library, philos- ophical apparatus, and museum. From its central situation, ami the reputation which this University, as a seat of learning, has acquired, the number of matriculated students attending it is armually increasing. Tn the session of 1854<-5o, eleven graduated in arts, and eleven in medicire. The College School is taught in a separate building in the City, and is very efficiently conducted. The Uni- versity of Queen's College, though the educational instit- ution of the Scottish Church in Canada, is open to students of all denominations, without distinction, exclusion or preference of any kind, and individuals of all denominations have attended, and from year to year attend it. No test is required either on admission, or on graduation ; and while those entrusted with its management have ever held that the youthful mind ought to be imbued with those great doctrines of Christian principle, and practice, in which all f I w I M^ * . i I ' I . i! 40 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. are agreed, there has never been the slightest Interfeiercc with the denominational pe; uliarities of any. Besides Queen's College, Kingston enjoys the benelit arising from its being the head qinrtcis of various other educational establishments, such r»s the College of Iieaio polis, (Roman Calholic) the Grammar School, Queen's College Preparatory, and the Common Schools. There are fifteen Churches belonging to different denominations of Christians. In 1853 the opening of a r.ailroad from Cape Vincent, (U. S.,) (opposite to Kingston) to Rome, where it con- nects with the general railways of the United States, has tended much to develope the resources of Kingston and the adjacent country. Lake Ontario.— American Shorci Before descending the St. L iwrence and biddino- fare- well to lake Ontario, for the sake of tlie tourist who may prefer to steam along the American or Southern shore of the Lake, we shall furnish a few particulars. From the outlet of the Niagara at the Fort of that name to the boundary line 45^"^, the entire hUofal is in the State of New York, and comprises in succession the counties of Niagara, Orleans, Monroe, Wayne, the northern corner of Cayuga, Oswego, Jefferson, and St. Lawrence. The last along its entire western frontier, and a half of Jeffer- son County, are bounded by the River. From Fort Niagara to the mouth of the Genesee River in :Munroe County, a distance of jthout ei-hty-fi;c miies, the coast THE CANADIAN TOUIilST. 41 and presents an nlnriost iinilcviating Ii-ve! inuler tlie pilint'val bnis!i-\voo(!, relieved hy a few scattered clearances. iShouJii till' tourist on ascendiiii* the Genesee to Cai'tliaoe. which is the j)ort of Rochester, resolve upon visiting this city, he will find enough to engage rnd gratify his curiosity till he resumes his journey by the next steamer^* The road for a mile from Carthage has been excavated to the depth of f;oin sixty to eighiy feet, and in some parts overhangs the rugged b;:iiks of the river to an equal height, so that the sti-an2,er on his return, as he is borne alcn^- in the om- nibus, from its peculiar construction makino- a rej^ular al- ternation of jolts fiom side to side, notwithstanding the romantic, scenery canno; help yielding to an uncomfortable impression of danger. An Englishman in 1810, having penetrated many miles into the bush, was struck with the water advantages which the Genesee afforded, and select- ed for his loghouse a portion of the locality which the wide-spreading Rochester now fills up. Some idea may be formed of its astonishing progress from the fact, that the population, which in 1825 was 5,271, and in ISl-O 20,1 91, amounts now to about 45,000. This large com- mercial and manufacturing town owes its greatness mainly to the '-'water privileges*' wliich the prOj)rietors on the banks of the Genesee here possess. For a con^-iderable way above the Upper Falls, the banks are on both sides surmounted by a great variety of mills. Its proximity to Lake Ontario, and the passage of the Erie Canal through its principal streets, contribute materially to its prosperity. A frontage on the river fetches a high price, as from the Ml ' 1 Wf M THE CANADIAN TOURIST. [t- j ' *■» . ' ■ 'I — *, mituvii of the situation a f-npph" of wator from t\n) cnna) or i.inv cases hv rendced availal.le tv.ico ov ans of v/liich the Canal race ran m n thrice. Tlie aciUfMhict. by rnassajie of the NADIAN TOURIST. I ! i I Ii winter. This place was subsoqucntly named Fort Covington, in memory of Generiil Covington who fell at the battle of Williamsburgh, Kingston to Montreal. Opposite Kinp,ston lies a large island, called Wolfe's Island. It is well settled, having upwards of six thousand acres under cultivation. The stream, which in the course of a few miles issues from ihe Lake, is now for the first time called the St. Lawrence ; and its channel so expands, and becomes so full of islands, that it obtains the name of the " Lake of the Thousand Islks." The sail through those islands has ever been looked forward to by the tourist as one of the most interesting parts of Cana- dian or Airorican scenery, and is indeed a voyage through an enchanted sea of ever-changing beauty. On approach- ing the islands it seems to the spectator as if the vessel steered her course towards the head of a landlocked bay which barred all further progress — coming nearer, a small break in the line of shore opens up, and he enters between what he now discovers to be islands, E^nd islands which are innumerable — now he sails in a wide channel between more distant shores, again he enters into a strait so narrow that the large paddle boxes of the steamer almost sweep the foliage on either side as she pursues her devious course — now the islands are large, miles in circumference, and again he passes some small as a lady's work table, shaded by a single tiny tree occupying the handful of earth which represents the " dry land." On all, the trees grow to the THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 45 water's edge, and Jip tlicir ouKr branches in tl.c clear blue lake. Sometimes the mirage throws ,.ts an- of en- chantment on the whole, and the n.ore distant islands seem floating in mid-heaven-only descending mlo the lake as a nearer approach dispels the illusion, and when the rushing steamer breaks the fair surface of the water in which ail this loveliness is reflected as in a nnrror-to quote the words of poor Warburton, "the eye do, s not weary to see, but the head aches in even writing the one word- beauty— .vhcrever yov, steer over this sweet scene beauty-beautv stdl." To see, and re.lly enjoy and appreciate Ihe'charms of the Lake of the Thousand Isl»s, one ou-ht to visit it in a small boat, and spend ma.iy days amid its labyrinths ; but we are on board a steamer, and must he content with the passing gbince which b.'r rapid and noisy course affords. An hour, or less even, and we are throuoh.-the Islands and the mighty Ontario are lelt be- hind "and we now emerse into the majestic river, though not to disappointment, for all is grand and beautiful stdl. The lake we areju t leaving will he rem-mbered as the scene of the exploits of tiie notorious Bill Johnson and his daughter, during the insurrections of 1837-8. A better place for a bold robber to lurk cannot be lancied, and though his character and that of his daughter are too well known for romance writers of the present day to attempt the theme, doubtless the poet and novelist of a luture time may easily find the materials lor another Lauy ot t.ie Lake or Rob Roy in the adventures of the robber and bis virago daughter. m*Mtn ■iiiiim 1 ■} l' i 1 * 1 ■■ ^ 1 / J-^V 46 THE CANADIAN T(»URIST. On l>olli shores of \\\v !iv< r tl (; travdl.T ohscM'vrs tlie settlements of the farmeis, wi:h louns an 'i villngrs on tlu« banks ; we !^h:l!l notii e these ininucliatcly, bat, as we are lairly in the streiiiu, let us sail on without halting. 'The traveller, as he looks on the river from time to time, will soon remark ih-it the euriont g.u'ns strength, eddies begin to sweep round in wi [v. eirchs, and Mie upheaving surges, gently at first but angrily as you proceed, boil s^nd roar around and beneath \ our vessel — on she goes faster and still faster—look ahead, the uliite- crested breakers meet your eye ; nhile you look,yo\i are in the midst ofthem, and aaain vou ;.r(; out into sin otiicrbut still rapid water. In this '.vay ycu pass down the upj errapids — the Galops. Point Irocpiois, and some otiiers which d ) not strike you as anything remarkable, llv.t now the water becomes again adtated, and boils -..nl r( ars as it rushes down the Long Sault. Look forwaid to the wheel-house, two men are there now instead of one — bok aft, a tiller has been shipped to aid the wheel, and four brawny fellows man it, and in perf< :t silen< e watfdi the signals of the pilot, who, with fixed eve and i^athered brow, scans the white torrent tlirouii'h which he iuust steer his fearful course — a tiller rope parted— a rudder band carried away — a flinching eye — -a mistaken si:rnal— a wrono; turn of the wheel — and before you lies a destruction quick as thought, inevitable as doom. But the gear is good — pilot and crew staunch and steady — away^ and you are in the breakers ! Look to the land — the high banks are flying past and are gone ere you can mark their aspect — look to the water, it is writh- \'«'s tlie s on t\\v 1 we arc -. 'I'lio ne. will ?s begin surges, nd roar ter aiul rs meet em, nnd er. In s, Point you ns ?.s ngain e Long; rien are IS been man it, )t, who, torrent -a tiller ling eye si — and notable staunch Look to one ere s writh- s^Si^jPt^sri ifmt i I W - i'«i|||[Mi«riiiiiiy; €i» '^Y V titii^ .■*^' THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 47 L^- : ing ar.d roarln- over the jagg'ed rocks which, in rapid secession, arise around and aimoist touch your ship as she is nun- down the terrible descent— look to your shipmates, the crew and the pass^nigers are alike silent, or point in dumb show to the objects that strike the attention ! Look, ah.-iid -before you, in the very course on which you steer, lies a rock bound islet, the full torrent rushes with fright- ful force and volume against it, and on it you too are borne as if to certain destruction ; but, just when you might expect to feel the crash of rending timbers, the dividing cur- i-ent catfh.^s tlie vessel under her forefoot, she heels down unier ll.c shock— in an instant her bow is swept into a new direction, the threatening rock is under her stern, the island is passed. Gentle reader, the danger is over— and s ) (pnckiy that, ere you rouM read our feeble description, th:^ e:vciting race is run— you have perfonned the feat of •' shooting^he Long Sault,'^ and, on the calm bosom of Lake St Francis, you may endeavour to comprehend what, ill the rapid itself, you had barely time to look upon. While amid the raging torrents your hear nothing, see nothing, f.el nothin^r but the boiling tlood that roars and breabruround and over your vessel, but ere the eye bad l(',»rned to comprehend what it gazes on, the rapid is run —the dang-r— the excitement, are passed away like a '• dream of the night." And thus from rapid to lake, from luke to boiling current, and from current to rapid again, you pass through Lake St. Francis, the Coteau, the Cedars, the Cascades, Lake St. Louis, and fmally, the Lachine Rapids, below which, nnd after a day's journey of I .■v#' 'A iki I 48 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. no little variety and excitement, you are landed on the magnificent wharves of the commercial metropolis of He"' Majesty's American possessions. But though we have made such a galop down the river, which, by the way, we could hardly help, we must now make a more leisurely journey, and introduce our readers to the various points of interest which present themselves from Kingston downwards. Gananoque, at twenty tniles below Kingston, is the first place that the steamer touches at. It i-^ a pretty and thriving village of one thousand inhabitnnts. Twelve miles below stands Brockville, the County Town ofLrcds am! Grenville. It has a population of nearly, or perhaps tjuitc five thousand, and is one of the best built towns in Canada West ; the streets are broad, regularly lai;l out, nnd the houses chieflv built of stone, of v/hii-li there is an abundant supply of a beautiful kind. It contains, besiies a Court House, seven Cliurches, all substantial buildings of the stone alluded to, — and is a place of busy industry; havino^ an extensive foundry and e'i2:ine manufactorv, with saw and flour mills, and manufactures of cloth, axes, &c., to a very considerable amoimt. The Gr;ind Trunk Railway passes through the town, and adds another element to its caus<^s of pro'^perity. From this place an excellent road communicates with the town o'' Forth, which lies north frotn it at a distanre of fottv-five miles. The country in rear is well setlled and rapidly improv- ing. Brockville returns a member to j)arliament. Five miles further down is the village of Maitland, built wr:. THR CANADIAN TOURIST. 49 on the site of an old French Fort, and seven miles below lies Prescott, from which nre seen the wiiulmill, and the blackened and ruined houses around, the scene of the wretched attempt at invasion by Schultz and his gang of sympathisers in 1838. There is no recollection of glory to qualify the details of that miserable affair; where, after a short and hopeless resist ance, the leader and his followers were made prisoners. Ju'-itice was satisfied with his life alone, which he justly forfeited as a mere brigand and mur- derer — crimes in his case utterly inexcusable, fo he was a man both of birth and education. Prescott was at one time a place of considerable impoitance, but the construc- tion of the Ilideau Canal removed all its trade to King- ston, and for many years its appearance was desolate in the extreme. Now, however, a new impulse has been given to its progress by the opening- of tlie Railway to Bytown, recently named Ottawa Citv, and the openino; of the Grand Trunk Pvnihvay. The situation of the village is n iturally very pretty, but the elTect is '^adly marred by the numerous tanneries, breweries aitd distilleries which are built alonir the water's edge, with their rears and out- houses to the rivei. Immediately opposite at a distance of two miles, is seen the beautiful and thriv- ing; town of OciDENSBUPvGH, witli which tliere is constant communication by steam ferry-boats. From what we have said tl.e reader will (^asily ;•< e that a brigl't future again opens up for Present!. Steamers for the American side of Lake Ontario and the Canadian side, touch daily both in their upward trips and those downward to Mon- I 50 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. treal, wliilr; pasiseniiors for Boston ami New York, or Bytown, Toronto, or Montre;il, liave tailway tr.iiiis for each of these places. At present the popuhitioii is only two thousand five humlred ; but this must viiii^ for is only soon be [\y used , for in enouoh short of at tlie t5'-el;;bt Matilda, sattlo of ^.laiia- 1 sevoro situated t will be lie locks, irt: xei'Y !es long, distance id stt:un- ! we Hi ay Lnv'ddrie' thp s.'irne ial vvattr rio, wl.i'o ith Li'ke The town of Cornwall is well liid out, and has a plea- sant sitmtion. Tt returns a ?/reml)er to the Flouse of Assembly, has a population of two thousand, and a news- paper. The FrenoJj inhabitants formerly called this place " Pointo ^Taline," from the difllculty they experienced in ascending- this portion of the river witli Hieir bateaux. Opposite to Cornwall lies the Lidian village of St. Ilegis, where line 45^ strikes the St. Lawrence, and forms the boundary between Lower Canada and the State of New York, interserting-,Palso, the tra-t of land wlsich is the property of this body of Troquois, nuiiibering in all about one thousand, and about enually British and American. There is a large stone church, wldch was • snlinf baskets and brooms. After passing the Canal the ^t. Lawrence widens into one of those beantirul exnanses, called Lakes, which tend not a little to impart variety to the course of this majestic river. Lake St. Francis is forty miles long. Abort half-w;>y down thf lake on the left hand stands the village of Lancaster, close to th<^ boundary line between the West and East Provinces. ft- ':^'^*'^- ■^fi*!**' r ^"^B'—j— , 52 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Hero the loyal Glen-ary ' ligVilanders raised a large m?V/z or pile of stones (a mernotial oceasionaliy ereeteil for warriors of okl Scotland) in honour of Sir Jolin Colborne, now Lord Seaton, formerly Governor General. A con- siderable island, railed Grand Isle, lies a little below the east end of the Lake. In order to open up a communica- tion between this Lake and the next expanse, called Lake St. Louis, which is twen^-four miles in length, the Beauharnois Canal has been construcrted by the Provin- cial Government. It is eleven-and-a-quarter miles lono-, and has nine locks.--The St. Lawrence, on fu^ero-ino- iVom the Cascades, receives a great niflux of watei- from the Ottawa, and their conibined waters form the expanee of Lake St. Louis, at the western extremity of which is tlie Isle Terrot, and alon<;- the north shore is the Isluid of AIontr(;aI, which is about thirty miles in hnv'tb. For some distance below the junction the brown waters of the Ottawa roll unmixed with the clear streauj of the St. Lawrence. At the outlet of the Lake on the rioht is the Iroquois settlement of Caughnawaga, or '' The Villa 'e of the Rapids," in allusion to those that lie a litth: below. It was granted for their benefit by Louis XIV, in IfiSO, and enl ug> d by Governor Frontenac. Tliese Indians i.i sutnmer c hiefly sub-ist by navigating barges. and rafts down lu \'ontieal, and in winter by the sale of snow-shoes, moccasins, &,( . They are Roman Catholics, and soraetnne since rebuilt their church, which is handsome andsubstantKil. They behav.J nobly during the disturb- ances of 1837 and 38, and since that period have received THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 53 speci;:! niaiks of IL r IMajeslyV. favour. On the left bank stands Lachine, the cenlial situation of which bids fair to ensure its growth and prosperity. ll<'re is the residence of Sir George Simpson, (loverr.or of the Hudson's Buy Com- pany, and of the statTof oflicers in charge of this, the princi- pal post of the company. Hence emanate the instructions, received from head-(juarters in London, for tlie difl'(!r< nt posts throughout the comp;iny\ extensive territories. Towards the latter end of April in each year a body of the company's people along \vith experienced xoyagcurs leave this port in large canoes, called maUrc-catiola^ in which their chattels and packag; s are transported via the Ottawa and a tributary on the left to Lake Niplssing, whence is the descent by the Piviere des Fran^ais in Lake Huron. On icaching Foit William on the banks of Lake Superior the large canoes give place to others of a much smaller descrij)tion, constiucted for more convenient tran- shipment across the numerous 'portages between ilie different posts of the company. At Caughnawaga is tbe depot of the Montreal and Plattsburgh Railway, lying opposite to the village of Lacliine ; — between the two shores, a steam ferry-boat runs summer and winter, as here the river never freezes. From Lachine the distance to Montreal is nine miles — the rapids are here surmounted by another caual^ cut at a lit*avy expense. A rail- way also joins the two places, and although steamers generally descend tlie great rapids, yet passengers some- times land h(^re and are carried to the city by the cars. On leaving the wharf, if the traveller will look to the west, 4 54. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. I I IxMvill observe tlifi oppii l;ik<', f>n which he has just pa'^scd, strr will at once feid tliat he is in a forei<;;n land, among a stranoe ras e, for althouab a oreat proportion of the people are English, ^.ti!l the mas-^es are French, speaking their own hrnguage. Churches, ll0u.^es, everything wears a diffeient aspect; but we shall remark this more as we pro -eed, and now hasten on to Montreal. Montreal. From its favourable situation and fertile soil, Montreal eariy attracted the attention of theFrenci» discoverers who visited and nriarked it out for settlement under the famous Jacques Cartier. This occurred in 1535 — upwards of three hundred years ago. Even at that,time,it Avas found occupied by the Ilurons who had a rillage here, and a tolerably large space of cleared land around, on which they raised Maize or Indian Corn, and sotne kinds of vegetables referred to by Champlain. It was not, however, until a century later, that a ( ity was projected and laid out, which on the I5lh August, 164-2, was placed under WaiMPmMMWMK THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 55 |)aais, but lon^ fo:-"uttea under its pr-sent nam • taken from the iMounlaiii, at tlio base of whieh it lies. The Island of INTontrcal is formed by the St. Lawrence on the south, and a branch of the gicat Ottawa on its northern side — at each of the eastern and western ex- tremities the waters of these rivers meet and complete its insuhir formation. The Island is thirtv-four ir.IIes in lenuth, by about ten at its greatest bre;:dth, and, with the exception of the 31ountain which gives its name to both the town and the island, is nearly level, and one of the most fertile districts of the Province. The whole of this valuable tract of land belonged, and in a great meanire still belongs, to fhe Priests of the Seminary of St. Sul- pice who derive an immense revenue from it -but, under the law of commutation, passed a few vears a^o, the land IS gradually becojning freed from the Seignoi ial burdens. On the south side of the Mountain, facing the River, along which it extends nearly two and a hrd! miles, is bui!t the flourishing city, which, though not the Seat orG.ovcrnment at present, is in point of population and wealth as well as in position, the capital of the Province of Canada. Situated at tlie conrtuence of two of the the mightiest rivers in the world, and h iving a free communication with the ocean, though in reality ninety miles above the influence of the tide and uj) wards of three hundred miles from salt water —it possess(>s all the advantages of a sea-port ; and as the Lachine rapids forbid any further ascent by sea-ooin r ^•1 56 THE CANADIAN T UHIST. ships of any size, it soon became n commfrrlnl emporium, destine J to encroase from year to year as tlie devrloping greatness of tlie territories ilong the Wesh n Lakes and the Ottawa shall call for new nnd greater facilities foi trade. At present, as may be siipimscd, its imports and exports are greater than at any other British American port—the value of the former 'in l.Sfvl. being close npon 1 'J ,000,000 of dolliirs and of the latter about 2,500,000 dollars, and employing on an average 4500 vessels of all kinds. The city, n hich is built in a somi what irregular form, is laid out in straight streets, all the public buildings, and indeed, all the private dwellings and stores of any pretension, are constructed of a beautiful lime-stone, bear- ing much the appearance of the c(lf^brated Aberdeen granite. M present, in the outskirts and back streets, many houses of wood are still in existence, but since the great fire in 1852 a Bye-law of the Corporation requires all new houses to b.^ built of stone or brick — so that in the course of a few years, decay and improvements, with fires, accidental or otherwise, will have probably swept away all of vvood that remains. In Montreal and its environs, the tiaveller will find much to interest him, and if he will accompany us in a couple of promenades, we shall endeavour to point out to him all that is most worthy of lemark— beginning at the St. Lawrence or Donegana's Hotel, from one of which we shall start to vi-it the Catholic Barish Church, best known to strangers as the French Cathedral. The creat size of this building c.rtainly constitutes its chief claim THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 57 vi|)oiium, vrloping ;>kt's and litics foi Oits arul uiierican )sc upon 1)00,000 ^Sfsels of irregular luilfiings, » of any no, boar- J:eideen streets, since the requires that in ts, with y swept vill find us in a it out to J at the )!' which ch, best be great ?S claim ^or observation. Tt is of what is called ihii perpejidi»*ular Gothic style of tlio architecture of the iniddh? ages, :)nd in entirely destitute of ornament : nrvertheless, it is both grand and simple, and is, we believe the lnrge,t churcli of any kind on this continent, or ;;t all events in North America. The main entrances are from the front, facing on Place d'Armes, and between two square toweis, form- in"- with the doors the front of the build in.g. The towers are two hundred and twenty feet high, that to the west is always open, and a good stair-cuse leads to the top. The ascent is well worth undertaking, for from the Dim- mit a complete view is obtained of the wliole city and sur- rounding country— the former lying at the spectator's feel,, and enabling him to count every street, lane, and garden in the place. The interior is not striking, except for size. One or two of the shrines may attract attention on account of the quantity af silver displayed in can- dlesticks, and figures of our Saviour on the cross. The spaces between the confessionals and over the altar are " covered with paintings of Saints and Martyrs, shining with varnish and bright colours, but none possessing much merit. If the stranger happens to be present on a f^te day, when the church is filled, he will s.e it to the best ad- vantage—for, calculated to contain without crowding ten thousand persons, such an immense assemblage within one building for solemn worship and accompanied with the striking ceremonies and pomp of the Roman Catholic church, is indeed an imposing sight. This clmrcb boasts the possession of a magnificent set of b( I's, on(; of \ii> •t> Vs^*^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 If:"^ ilM I.I 1.25 M M lia IIIIIM If 1^ 1.4 1.8 1.6 ^^

">'*■ ^ Photographic l^ciences Corporation 23 'VEST M&!N STSSET WEBSTEK.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4S03 \ r^'imm:i*i:\.tm. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 61 nishef] hy Mr. superiiitendance ^ is a substan- rpose for which of late was an h, is now tasle- ii'i liid out into ti down a nar- churcii, from Tt, anideainay Jing down tin's iiese, the peo- most substan- lica. Com- *i they extend a distance of >'n7 space for basins, inter- hipping of all merce of the to the docks. r a high wall r ground on runs another 1 along this id barracks, ? the river. of view, is decidedly the most interesting part of the citj. In the foreground, are the wharves, the docks, and shipping; be- yond, stretches the St. Lawrence expanding towards Lapraiiie into a great lake — to the west, the river is shut in apparently hy Nun's Island, to the east, by that of St. Helens, both covered with magnificent maple, birch and hickory trees. On the opposite side, the low fertile l^nd of St. Lambert and th County of Huntingdon stretches away till the view is bounded by the high hills of the Townships and the State of Vermont. Immediately opposite itie city may be seen the wharf of the New York and St. Lawrence Railway Company, with its buildings and machine shops, and b^low Nun's Island are seen several of the gigantic piers now in course of construction to receive the Tubular Bridge intended tc span the St. Lawrence, and which, when completed, will be one of the wonders of the world. Confining'ourselves m the mean- time to the city, let us walk along the upper wall of the wharves to the Bonsecours Market. This is a magnificent pile of building in the Doric style erected at a cost of $280,000, and is said to be the finest market house on this continent. On the basement story are extensive accom- modation for the sale of fish, vegetables, fruit and pork, and a range of ice-houses for those who occupy the dif- ferent stalls ; in the story above, which is entered from St. Paul Street, there on a level with it, are the stalls of the butchers, all well lighted and aired, with a wide promenade between the two ranges. Above this story are the oflSces of the Corporation, and Council Chamber, which b3 1 1 -y C b If 62 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. • oocup, rt e Mr of this story ; „,e other half is a large con- cert and ball roora. capable of c6„,ai„i„g fo„r tho ,sa„d persons comfortably seated Tf rt. f "ousand deterred hv th, Z / "''^"Se'- has been deterred hy the fafgue of ascending the to^er of -he Cathedral, we should recommend him to mount to the l^ome the market-house, which is e,si,, done, n fr m wh,ch t e new of the river and St, Helen's sle is e" ceedmgly beautiful. From the market place we ma/ now proceed by Place ha h„ place, until a few years ago, was disfigured b/a long ow range of sheds occupi.J as a market. °Theseare now happdy removed ; and, the whole being plan-ed w , ere long add another ornament to Montreal.' AtX "hea :"■ ';';'" \ r'""" ""''''' '° "- —ry of England', grea^st naval hero Lord Nelson. Timean! thesevel he wm ter have injSredthe bas-reliefs on the foursid s of the ped.ment; but even now they are worthy of a„ — ;'::Lrtor^,-f-- .c^dh t„ .„J^^^^^ C:;;::wa?o7iS:iXr'''"""^* Though the architecture and plan of this buildino have been much cr.t.,.sed, it is nevertheless a„ fmpos n^ n ,e cost about $200,000-a sum which is raised by a tax on a heproce.d,ng, had within its walls, aided [ywt^ collected from tavern-licences in the District of Montrell! ^BiUishftd hv Chfi* M&tfKBti JaR^sTWTSnijtfcrt^c}?., [ST. Iialf is a large con- ing four thousand itranger has been the tower of »he to mount to the ily done, and from telen's Isle is ex- proceed by Place Tiarklng as we go s disfigured by a rket. These are eing planted, will al. At the head Jory of England's -an J the severity on the four sides 'e worthy of an and conception. this monument its present dila- reet is the Court lis building have 1 imposing pile, tie city. It has sed by a tax on ided by what is c^tof xMontreal. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 63 Thus the unlucky litigant, in addition to the lohs of bis suit is compelled to pay part of the cost of the building wherein he, of course, believes he has met with injustice, — he at all events cannot be expected to admire it. The ground plan is three hundred by one hundred and twenty- five feet, and seventy-six feet in height. On the ground floor are vaults for the records, all fire proof, the Keeper's rooms and Office of the Clerk of the Peace, &c. On the two upper stories are five Court Rooms, Judges' Chambers, Advocates' Library, Prothonotury's and Sheriff's Offices — all of spacious dimensions and handsomely finished. As some one or more of the courts, civil or criminal, are almost always in session, a visit will amuse the stranger from the curious mixture of French and English in which thi proceedings are carried on, for though all the Judges and nearly all the lawyers speak both languages, yet each addresses the Court for the most part in his own, so that to the visitor ignorant of French it is a scene of Babel- Jike confusion. It would weary our friends were we to ask them to read a particular notice of all the other public buildings of Montreal, and, thrrefore, we shall content ourselves by merely enumerating the principal and indicating the streets in which they are situated, in order that those who are so disposed may know where to find them. Besides the Parish Church or Cathedral, the Catholic churches are St. Patrick's at the west end of Lagauchetiere Street, occupying a comm:inJing position, but, though very con- spicuous, possessing no gr at architectural attractions; 64 I ! ^'5>— «iM« THE CANADIAN TOURIST. he B,y^ Chu,ch in St. Denis Street, a very hand- some s ructure, erected since ,l,e great fire of 1852, U>e old bu.ld,„g having been ot that ti„,e destroyed ,vi,h about ath.r 01 the c,ty ; the lU-eollet Church, in Notre Dame and St. Mary's Church, in Grillintown. There are also cape,, attached to all the Nunneries, and in son.e of these 1692, for he care of lunatics and children. The Hotel thtse .„ t.tut.ons are exceedingly well managed, and inde- pendently of the good the sisters do within tlf ir ow wj he.r devoted kindness to the sick out of doors is beyo d cholera and sh.p lever, on which occasions many of these ad.es have sacrificed their lives in the cause of the sufljrmg fellow-creatures, without distinction of nation or nZ'SI'' M'" ^'r^ " Congregational Nunnery in ■^otre Dame Street, founded in 1659. Hereth^.i, hood de,ote themselves to the education ffyolg^; of the. own sex. The education afl-orded is :fT veTy superior description. ^ The stranger who desires to see any of the Nunnerie, ought to apply to the Lady Superior for admL^S ■s rarely refused to respectable people, and the u^ "st pohtene. is invariably .hewn to' visitors, th h ol ^e.r number at certain seasons, the patience of th. ge^" "'"---- "c vjtcu bciQiy tneii. CJn»*. Matfwmi Jt*r^;;TW';cyi«j)#ir:t:»©^,. 'Mam Ha 1ST. leet, a ve^ Imnd- tfjreof 1852, tJie .'stroye J with about :li, in Notre Dame the large market ; I'liere are also id in some of these nneries there are Street, founded in ren. The Hotel ;eiieral. Both of anaged, and inde- n their own walls, ' doors is beyond Jhown in times of IS many of these J cause of their tion of nation or •nal Nunnery in lere, the sister- f young persons ed is of a very the Nunneries 'mission, which ^nd the utmost f though, from e of thi: gentle THE CANADIAN TOURIST. ^|^^ We have already mentioned the Seminary and its College, but besides this, independent of ordinary schools, there is a large new College in Bleury Street, under the charge of the Jesuits. This institution is much lauded, and has already risen to great favour with the Roman Catholic population. The Protestant Churches worthy of notice are St. Andrew's Church in Beaver Hall, a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, being a close imitation of Salisbury Cathedral in England, though of course on a greatly re- duced scale. This, with St. Paul's Church, in St. Helen Street, are in connection with the Established Church of Scotland. The Episcopalian Churches are, the Cathqdral or Christ's Church in Notre Dame Street, St. George's Church in St. Joseph Street, St. Stephen's in Griffintown, Trinity in St. Paul Street, and St. Thomas' in St. Mary Street. Various other denominations of Christians have Churchei^ — the Wesleyans, a large and very hand- some building, in St. James Street, and also others in Grif- fintown and Montcalm Street ; the Independents two, one in Gosford Street and one in Radegonde Street. This last was the scene of the sad riot and loss of life on the occas- sion of Gavazzi's lecture in 1852. The Free Church has also two places of worship, one in Cot6 Street, and one in St. Gabriel Street — besides these there are the American and the United Presbyterian, the Baptist, and the Unita- rian Churches, a small Jewish Synagogue, the last named being classical in design. /i I isui.-i-wVfwiia ^■•^tjti\^ UiiLlMlu^a aiC iiii iaa*^T--JV -^ r ^ ^^ THE CANADIAN TOURIST. ^ pll wf' TT ^'"^'■'^''' ""= C— -' Banl, aote r^eri rz;: ,?'f' -'"^ -;-'""• ^"- have been h„l. ' '''"^"^HTposes for which they wave ueen built. Between ^^ i> i o. ^ River stmrU fi ^ ''"'"" ^^^- l^^u' Street and the Itive stands the Custom House, a neat buildmo- nut up about twentv vpir« oo-^ *i • =* ' " place In Z 1 ^ ' !" "" "^' °^ "'' "'d '"'rket Place In 6t. baca.nent Street, which the stranger will K- ;£::: ■ ?,*■;:„"• ."-«■" ......i. ::' liiernoer. Jl the architecture of thp 7?v,.l.. i c;.™to™^i^^ ner-' r/o, J" '"^''^" »" '° "•'■•'o we ma^ mention the Ge- al!:- r *" ^°''^'"^"''' ^'^"^^'•'""d tl'e St. Patrick's also in the same street hi.t ,t .h . , ^'""'^"s, M«--ri /-.I. ' * '"" "''■'*' end of (he town • M G>ll College, beautifulk situated at fh. h Tl ' »L.; .*r '""'• '•' "- '" '-. -"i" . i'» M'Gili CoIIeo-e owp« it^ . ? bequest of the late H„,r^™'""° "" ""■""■'"»* -!cha.,t of io .„:;!'" ; """ ^'''"'"' »" °P"'-t the proDert. nf R . ' '" "" ^*''' '^I*, bequeatted He property of BurnMde, on which the College is built together with MO 000 fo,. ti,„ i " '"' '"""' '■" t'"; advancement of l<.»,„;„„ lWi«TSimf?l!Ti;t*ri|5l?ti'.ai»;i!fi;. r. ornmercial Bank, , tlicMecljanic's reat St. James substantial char- s for which they Street and the building- put up an old market lie stranger will Exchange and I'ge and c Orn- ish and Amen- de of which is duction by any 'ange has any lie situation in etely prevents Jntion the Ge- St. Patrick's, of 4he town j base of the of the Col- claim a less e munificent f an opulent ,bequeatl>«d t^ge is built, Ctf lpni-nin« Here, beside, the beauty of h! " '^'' ^''''"''■ «fts from the Ottawa lkt*';rr^' "« ^^ - the 4r • ••I'MXit^'WIIVJl «-i>. 'iu«mi«i%^-.i. through what 'ill give hiin an ^ the villas of rm some idea s he will pass part of the the Governor ' Elgin it has ice-Royslty, lishment for he Congre- ^eft will be 'ion. This, >eininarjr of t's Farni.'» th a high ate flankecj ind ancient elegance of >rr7 to see remove it, is trouble which arc fsland, on Prairies. T see the exciting from the THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 75 *r1 extreme rarity of accidents we must conclude that the skill of the voyageurs has taught them to avoid any real danger. We must now hurry on our journey, having perhaps detained our readers too long while pointing out the beau- ties of the Queen City of Canada. We shall, therefore, conclude our remarks by one or two observations of a purely statistical nature. The stranger will, ere be has been many hours in the city, see that the inhabitants represent, in very unequal numbers, the two kingdoms of Great Britain and France. According to the last census in 1851-2, the total popula- tion of the city was given as fifty-seven thousand seven hundred and fifteen, and is now we may safely say sixty five thousand or more. According to the same authority the inhabitants of French origin were twenty-six thousand and twenty ; Irish, Catholic and Protestant, eleven thousand seven hundred and thirty-six ; Scotch three thousand one hundred and fifty ; English two thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight. In these figures, so far as the classification of nationalities is concerned, we have no great confidence, and, moreover^ 'le proportions are rapidly changing by the greatly increasing numbers of the Anglo-Saxon part of the population — an increase which will in many years tend to equalise the two races. In Montreal are published twenty-five newspapers and other periodicals, of these five are French for twenty-six thousand people of that origin, and twenty English for the eighteen thousand who speak that language — a dispro- portion which we would anxiously desire to see lessened. ill !^ J 76 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Before continuing; our journey to ti.e East „» . T" f :"" *° I"'""' °"* the various feaLfo ' T T" offered bv a trln «« fu t>. 't-diures ot attraction •«te., sol;;:;!;;'; '''"^ °"^'^'^' °^ "'-•<='' - «'- The Ottawa. Jm^C ";: r' ^-"-'^ -"•-/ w„ie,. it drains, operations of .1', l^r; ZT"''"''""' '° '"^ farmer, who h.,vo foJo !j I , '=°'"P»'-'"-ely few ■ capabilities as „ 1 w 'u ■ '' ' '"'' '^"'^"^' "' attracted a greate^C :! ,71'' 'T ''''"''' Posul of conneciin. 7 ""'"' "'""'' t'-e pro- far We. ClSt:::^ '^^J-'J^^^Hu-andl "ver, the nclL of'i brts f ."^ "«'"■*"''« "f the «-er,, we cannot b t er sne I t', ' '""'^ °' "-^ the excellent Renort I M '^ , " ""^ ""■^'"g "^'e "^ House of A.Srr2,::;: ^^' ^ ^--«- ^^ the ^«o liL;:"^ :;; t ~ °'.'"^, °"^- ^'-^ ^^ ^^o- course, and aft • "' " ^""^' '" ^ ^""th-west height ontnd 1 "•'■'''r"""' '"■""'"- f-™ the Bay, it enter Larx!'."^ "^*^^^ ^-» the Hudson's into this iak downward tr""'"=- . J™™ ''^ «'"-"- -veyed, and is wrWn "" "'^'^ °"'"^'' ''^^ "- «.«es farther down tb alelt e Thirt,-fo„r . a-r, coding one hundri. t'.' :!!?" *.'"' ^-'-' ..#l?ni»»{T5Viirri:TOiCHii>-». iii* -ast, we must of attraction hich we have lich it drains, Joned to the iratively few iatterlj, its 'e graduailj ich the pro- Ton and the itnde of the »ut7 of the ^^ing use of ittee of the ^'er is about south-west ' from the ■ Hudson's s entrance a has been er falls in, 'faii'tj-four Montreal from tbe THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 77 north-west.'^ Six miles lower down on the east, or Lower Canada bank it receives the Keepawa-sippi, a large river which has its origin in a lake of great size, hitherto hut partially explored, and known as Lake Keepawa. This lake is connected with another chain of irregularly shaped lakes, from one of which proceeds the River du Moine, which enters the Ottawa about a hundred miles below the mouth of the Keepawa-sippi, the double discharge from the same chain of lakes in opposite directions presents a phenomenon similar to the connection between the Orinoco and Rio Negro in South America. The Keepawa-sippi has never been surveyed, but on a partial survey of the Lake from which it proceeds, it was found flowing out with a slow and noiseless current, very deep, and about three hundred feet in width ; its middle course is unknown, but some rafts of timber have been taken out a few miles above the mouth. It is stated in the Report, from which we quote, that there is a cascade at its mouth one hundred and twenty feet in height ; this is a fable ; the total de- scent from the Lake to the Ottawa may be one hundred and twenty feet, but there is no fall at the mouth of the river. " From the Long Sault at the foot of Lake Temiscam- ing, two hundred and thirty-three miles above By town, and three hundred and sixty miles from the mouth of the Ottawa, down to Deux Joachim Rapids, at the head of the Deep River, that is for eighty-nine miles, the Ottawa with the exception of seventeen miles below the LonP" Saidt. and snmP nthpr inf-prunlsi i*i nnf nf nrocant ■IP 78 «L-_ THE CANADIAN TOURIST, navijable except for canoes. Besides other tributar- les in the interval, at a hundred and ninety-seven miles from Bytown, now called Ottawa, it receives on the west side the Mattawan, which is the highway for canoes going to Lake Huron, by Lake Nipissing. From the Mattawan the Ottawa flows east by south to the head of Deep River reach, nine miles above which it receives the River Du Mome from the north. " From the head of Deep River, as this part of the Ot- tawa ,s called, to the foot of Upper Allumette Lake, two miles below the village of Pembroke, is an uninterrupted r^each of navigable water, forty-three miles in length The general direction of the river in this part is south- east. The mountains along the north side of Deep River are upwards of a thousand feet in height, and the many wooded islands of Allumettes Lake render the scenery of this part of the Ottawa magnificent and exceedinglv pic- turesque—far surpassing the celebrated Lake of the Thousand Islands on the St. Lawrence. " Passing the short rapid of Allumettes, and turnino- northward, round the lower end of Allumettes Island"" which is fourteen miles long, and eight at its greatest width, and turning down south-east through Coulonge Lake, and passing behind the nearly similar Islands of Calumet, to the head of the Calumet Falls, the Ottawa presents, with the exception of one slight rapid, a reach of iifty miles of navigable water. The mountains on the north side of Coulonge Lake, which rise apparently to the heiffht of fiftsen hnnrir^A a.«* ..u , ■BRfiT^tflW.l.TTiW.fj^iUv.,* THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 7$ her tributar- )^-seven miles s on the west canoes going he Mattawan flDeep River he River Du rt of the Ot- e Lake, two ninterrupted ' in length, art is south- Deep River d the many 5 scenery of idingly pic- ike of the nd turn in jr tes Island, IS greatest Coulonge Islands of he Ottawa a reach of us on the irently to Segree of grandeur to the scenery, which is in other respects beau- tiful and varied. In the Upper AUumettes Lake, a hun- dred and fifteen miles from Ottawa, the river receives from the west the Petawawee, one of its largest tributaries. This river is a hundred and forty miles in length, and drains an area of two thousand two hundred square miles. At Pembroke, nine miles lower down on the same side, an inferior stream, the Indian River, also empties itself into the Ottawa. ^' At Ihe head of Lake Coulonge, the Ottawa receives from the north, the Black River, a hundred and thirty miles in length, draining an area of eleven hundred and twenty miles; and nine miles lower, on the same side, the River Coulonge, which is probably, a hundred and sixty miles in length, with a valley of eighteen hundred square miles. " From the head of the Calumet Falls to Portage du Fort, the head of the Steamboat navigation, a distance of eight miles, are impassable rapids. Fifty miles above the city the Ottawa receives on the west the Bonnech^re, a hundred and ten miles in length, draining an area of nine hundred and eighty miles. Eleven miles lower, it receives the Madawaska, one of its greatest feeders, a river two hundred and tf -niles in length, and draining four thous- and on(i hundred square miles. " Thirty-seven miles above Ottawa there is an inter- ruption in the navigation, caused by three miles of rapids and falls, to pass which a railroad has been made. At the foot of the rapids, the Ottawa divides aiiioug isiaiidi^ 80 t THE CANADIAN TOURIST. into numerous cl.annels, presenting a most imposing arrav of separate falls. ' "gariaj n the O, au-a ChaudiOre Falls, which, inferior in impres Permanontlj. .nteresting, as presenting greater variety. I he greatest height of the Chaudiere Falls is about lorty feet. Arrayed in every imaginable variety of form n vast dark masses, in g.aceful cascades or in tumbling spray, they have been well described as a hundred rivers strugghng for a passage. Not the least interesting feature ^vluch they present is the Lost Chaudiere, where a body of water greater in volume than the Thames at London L quietly sucked down, and disappears under ground « At the eity of Ottawa the river receives the Ei.leau from the west, running a course of a hundred and sixteen miles, and drammg an area of thirteen hundred and fifiv square miles." ^ The City of Ottawa is perhaps situated more pictures-* que^y «.an any other in North America with the exception of Quebec. The view from the Barrack Hill, embracing as .t does, m one coup dmil the magnificent Falls of the' Chaudiere, with its clouds of snowy spray, generally spanned by a brilliant rainbow; the Suspension Bridi uniting Upper and Lower Canada ; the River above the great Falls studded with pretty wooded islands, and the distant purple Mountains, which divide the waters of the Gatineau from those of the Ottawa, is one of the most beautiful m fhp wnrM ^^ ■itinn.t.v <«•■ A*lii..r>.v THE CANADIAN TOUniST. gl The City of Ottuwa, now containing about tvreWe l.o,.san H-*- THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 87 and superior soil. ]t is generally a beautiful undulating country, wooded with a rich growth of maple, beech, bircir elm, &c, and watered with lakes and streams affordino. nu- merous mili-sUes, and abounding in fish. Flankin^. on the one side the lumbering country, which presents an%xcel- ient market for produce, and adjoining Lake Huron on the other, the situation, though comparatively inland, is liiohly advantageous. " In the diversity of resources, the Ottawa country above des.-ribed, presents unusual attractions alike to agricultural and commercial enterprise." Kcturning from the trip up the Ottawa, we shall once more embark upon the sunny St. Lawrence, henceforth better known by the inhabitants on its banks as La Grmide BdvUre. This the tourist, it is to be re^^retted must do in the afternoon, on board of one of the large' and comfortable steamboats daily, or rather nightly, ply. ^ng to Quebec. For the first hour or two he will have a view of a country entirely different from any thing he has yet seen. Both banks are low and uninteresting in a scenic point of view, but covered with the neat white- washed cottages of the French Canadian peasantry, built so closely to each other as to suggest the idea of a con- tmuous village on either bank; with here and there a thicker grouping of houses round the Parish Church. Darkness, however, soon closes the view, and the traveller only knows that he is rapidly borne along on the now united and smooth wat ts of two of the mightiest rivers in the world. Glorious in i\^n f.,n Kin^« r.c a -^ .^. 88 IHE CANADIAN TOURIST. think, grander and more sublime when beheld under the subdued light of a summer's moon. On the voyage tJie steamer stops twice, once at the Village ot Sorel, at the mouth of the Richelieu, aad again at Three Rivers, about half way to Quebec. The former place, though in early times a station of great importance, and the scene of many bloody struggles in the Indian wars, IS now nothing but a quiit Canadian village, giving little sign of being affected by the busy life that animates and improves the rest of the country. Of Three Rivers the same might be raid until a few years ago, since which time a good deal of activity has been caused by the open- ing up of the great timber country in its rear, on the banks of the St. Maurice, which here falls into the St. Law- rence. A visit to the Falls of Shawinegan, about thirty miles up this river, will be found interesting, and as it may be accomplished in one day, we shall pause and accompany the tourists who choose to make the trip. As the steam- boat reaches Three Rivers at about eleven o'clock at night, of course supper and bed at an excellent inn, close to the wharf, must be our first thought. In the morning as soon as daylight appears, we must start in a waggon wiili a couple of Canadian ponies driven tandem for the Oris This, which in French means free stone, is the site of very extensive saw mills, built upon the River St. Maurice. 1 he mills, the manager's house, and a few cottao-es for the labourers, constitute a small and perfectly isolated com- mun.ty. On the road, which is by no means good, and entirely through a forest of stunted tr^Ps. th. 17....... .. »r '^tf' •,•')>' ■ THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 89 Iron Works will be pointed out. This is a very old establishment, having been founded and put into operation many years before the conquest. An excellent bo<. ore is found .n abundance in the surrounding country, an'd iron of a very superior quality is produced. A village or hamlet surrounds the works, the inhabitants of which are French, but different in their appearance and dialect from the rest of the people, having come originally from a dif- ferent part of old Prance. At the Gris the tourists can engage Indians to convey them, in bark canoes, to the falls, a distance of about six miles. This mode of con- veyance W.1I be new to most of our la^■^> r-J ^'^l^^ .*/. ■ir. ^^Slt^ f'rfi' V***ift^, r:-s~;a:€?r"r^; • .; ^"^^^•2 <>^"S^ PORTLAND u: sr 'f*^v^i XI '-W»^^Sl#■.'i Pubashed cr/ Chaf Magnus. .N? 1^ Frankfort StlTevrYc orjc. ♦^T J, Pubhshed by Chaf. U&gnnz. If? li rr arklort 5t >Te^ York k_ -rr^ !> THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 93 c^C loads of timber from the far away Ottawa. But let us disembark and climb tlie steep ascent to the Upper Town. We would recommend tlio stranger, as sonn as lie finds himself in readinc^^s to proceed from bis lodgings for the purpose of enjoying the sceneiy of (^uebe<'. and its environs, to visit in the first place the Citadel, and place himself near to the flag stall'. His interest will be more completely gratified, if he be accompanied by an individual conversant with the sui'rounding localities and their associations. The Citadel, which surmcunts the huminit of Capo ].')iuir,ond, is three hundred and fifty feet above the River, and includes about forty acres. This fortress, admitted as unequalled by any military work on this Continent, and as second lo few of the most celebrated fortresses in the Old World, has been frequently and appropriately called the '* Cihraltar of America.^' Hence is commanded a coup (Vcdl^ which American and European travellers have pro- nounced unsurpassed in the New and Old Worlds. The view embraces the opposite banks of the majestic river for forty miles up and down, backed by extensive plains reced- ing to lofty mountains in the distance, the Island of Orleans between its shores, and on either hand the lovely village of Pointe Levi and that of Beauport, whilst the Great Hiver and the St. Charles unite in forming the magnificent basin, on whose bosom vessels of every size are contmually floating. Here the position of the City, on the tongue of land formed by these rivers, is well seen. The Cape is composed of dark-coloured slate, in which are found in veios, quartz crystals, sparkling like diamonds, and hence « Qi. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. m arose the name of Cape Diamond. A walk along the ramparts above the Esplanade is a delightful promenade. Hence the eyes rest on the small group of hills, forming the portal to the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters. as far as Iludson^s Bay — the lower range of mountains forming a boundary to civilization in this direction. The St. Charles is seen to most advantao-e at sun set, when its shores, studded with white buildinas* are illuminated by his declining rays, as they momentarily rest on the chain of hills above the beautiful Valcartier. —The Obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm stands on the Promenade between the gardens attached to the Castle. The Earl of Dalhousie, when CJovernor General, originated the erection of this monument, ?.nd contributed handsomely to the subscription fund. Captain Young, of the 79th Highlanders, prepared the design. For the benefit of those who do not understand the Latin language, we subjoin a translation of the two inscriptions. <• This monumental stone to the memory of the illustrious men, Wolfe and Montcalm, was laid by George, Earl of Dalhousie, Governor-in-Chief over all the British Prov- inces in North America ; a work neglected for many years (what is there more worthy of a gallant general ?) he pro- moted by his influence, encouraged by his example, and favoured by his munificence, 15th November, 1827, George TV. reigning King of Great Britain." " Military prowess gave them a common death. History, a common fame. Posterity, a common monument. In the year of our Lord 1827." It is not devoid of interest to record here, .- |: '^■«^^^»'!IC=!^^''»»^^•<•*s''*»•w^ THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 95 inenade. forming the feet le lower ation in Ivantage uiidings, lentariiy Icartier. ontcalm ached to lovernor 3nt, ?ind Captain design, le Latin riptions. lustrious Earl of ih Prov- ny years I he pro- pie, and •, 1827, Military common arof our )rd here, ■ (i that, when the foundation-stone of this monument was laid in presence of his Excellency, the Governor-in-Chief, the Lord Bishop of Quebec, the Chief Justice, the Committee of Superintendence, and a large assemblage of Ladies and Gentlemen, the ceremony derived a peculiar interest from the presence of Mr. James. Thompson, one of the few survivors (supposed to be the sole one in Canada) of the gallant army, that served under Wolfe on the memorable 13th of September, 1759. This veteran, then in his 95th year, walked with the party that accompanied the Earl, and leaned on the arm of the oflicer, whose chaste and appropriate design for the monument was adopted. The venerable man, having been called upon by the Governor to assist as a Free Mason in the ceremony, with a firm hand gave the three mystic strokes with the mallet on the stone. He has since paid the debt of nature, having died on the 25th of August, 1830, in the 98th year of his age. He was for a long time Overseer of Works in the Engineer Department of the Garrison. He was born at Tain, the county-town of Ross-shire in Scotland ; and, having come to this country in General Wolfe's army, was at the capture of Louisbourgh in Cape Breton Island, and in the unsuccessful affair near Montmorenci Falls. He also took part in the defence of Quebec against the attacks of the American Generals, Arnold and Montgo- gomery, in 1775. When his remains were conveyed to the grave with military honours, the band and firing party were furnished by the 15th Regiment, the senior corps in garrison, which by a singular coincidence happened to be one of those which formed the array under Wolfe. r 94 arose ramp Heiu the p of tb rang' this ( at su are i- rest t — Tl stani the Gent conti Youi For langi <• Th men, Dalh incea (vvhe^ motQ favoi Geoi prow fame T r.-^ 96 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. The traveller might now descend through the Place ^ d'Armes to the Seminary Gardens.— The English or Protestant Cathedral is one of the handsomest modern edifices in the City. Tt was consecrated in 1804. The communion f late is very magnificent, and was presented by Kin- George the Third. His Majesty also presented the hooks for Divine service— the altar-cloth, &c. The spire, which is one hundred and fiVty-two feet above the ground, and covereregation, on the chn's Gate, and The former is e latter is well ng them is one of 5 this Church. John's Suburbs, •ick's occupies an r fifty-two feet. 1831, and it was Sabbath of July, j, and stands one d to the ball sup- porting the cross. The interior is cnlcuKited to strike the beholder with religious awe and admiration. The Quebec Exchange, a commodious edifice of cut stone, was erected in 1828-9, and has answered the sanguine expectations of the proprietors. The second- floor is " where merchants most do coni^i egate," and is devoted to the Reading-room, which is admirably con- j ducted ; the upper part contains the rooms of the Board of Trade, and the Telegraph Ollice.-— The Quebec Bank, i which was established in 1818 and incorporated in 1822, [occupies the lower story of the handsome edifice built by jthe Quebec Fire Assurance Company, whose office is on jthe second story. — In this part of the Lower Town are tthe Branch Agencies of the Bank of Montreal, Bank of Jritish North America and Montreal City Bank.—The King's Wharf, which is appropriated to the purposes of rovernment, has on it extensive stores belonging to the /ommissariat Department, which were erected in 1821. Here land and embark the officers of the Army and Navy Ihe troops, &c. — The building formerly used as a Custom Touse adjoins on the west. Nearly opposite to this there nciently stood a barrier, where the two ways diverge, one the steps le?.ding to the Upper Town, and the other to (le Harbour. Close to this spot Montgomery was killed as jbove mentioned, 31st December, 1775.— At some dis- uice beyond, (about two miles) is Wolfe's Cove where le intrepid leader, from whence it derives its name, suc- leeded in ascending the Cliff, and in forming his army battle-array on the Plains of Abraham.— The Marine 106 TliE CANADIAN TOURIST. t Hospital was erected for the reception of sailors and others _ landiu- in Quebec afflicted with disease. It is supported by a Tax of one penny a ton levied on each vessel arriv- ine from Sea, and a proportion of the tax upon Emigra- tion. It stands on the bank of the Iliver St. Charles, nearly opposite to the spot where Jacques Carticr first wintered in 1535. The ceremony of laying the first stone was performed by Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Ch.ef, m May, 183-2. It was opened in .July, ISSL. Its estimat- ed cost was twenty-three thousand pounds or n.netytwo thousand dollars. The exterior is of the Ionic order ; and the proportions are taken from the Temple of Muses on the Ilissus near Athens. The first story contams Catholic and Protestant Chapels with apartments for officiating. Ministers, apartments for Housekeeper, Steward, ar.d Nurses, wards for sixty patients, besides two kitchens, store-rooms, baths, &c. The principal story contains the large Entrance Hall, apartments for the Medical Oflicers, their Examining Rooms, and Operating Theatres, besides a Museum, and accommodation for sixty-eight putient&> The third story contains apartments for the chief nurses, and wards for one hundred and forty patients. The upper story is appropriated as a Lying-in-Hospital for thirty- four patients. The attics will contain sixty ; so that there is accommodation for three hundred and sixtytwo persons. Each story is supplied with cold, hot, and vapour baths. In the basement are cellars, kitchens^ laundry, &c. The entire premises contain an area o. about six acres, laid out in gardens and promenade grounds for convalesceftts^ . I THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 107 id others ipportcd el arriv- Einigru- Charles, tier first irst stone C)hief, ia , estimat- netytwo 'der ; and sea on the Catholic officiating rard, ar.d kitchens, )ntains the il Officers, Bs, besides t patients. lief nurses, The upper for thirty- r ; so that d sixty-two , hot, and 5., kitchens, xde grounds In the month of May and June of 184'5, at an exact in- terval of four weeks, Quebec was visited by two most calamitous fires. So rapid and extensive was the des- truction that nearly one-tl»ird of the population Was rendered houseless, and the entire suburbs of St. llochand St. .)ohn'*s reduced to ashes. About sixteen hundred buildings, of which twelve hundred were dwellings, were destroyed. The total loss was estimated ateiglit hundred and seventy-five thousand pounds or five millions and five (hundred thousm.l <^ )IIar.>i, of which about one hundred and twenty-five thousand pounds or five hundred thousand dol- lars was insured. About forty lives were lost. This awful conflagration was arrested mainly through the noble exertions of the 43rd and 89tli Regiments, then compos- ing the Garrison, and of part of the Royal Artillery. The appeals of the Committee of the Quebec Relief Fund were nobly responded to, not only by the Mother Coun- try and the Sister Provinces, but by the Colonies gener- ally and by the United States. A sum, amounting, we believe, to nearly one hundred thousand pounds, was thus [raised, and the sufferers were enabled to rebuild their [houses in many instances in a more substantial manner than before. The Corporation enjoined the use of bricks and I stone instead of wood for the walls, and of tin instead of [shingles for the roofs. Having brought under the Tourist's notice the principal I features within the city of Quebec that seem worthy of I his attention, we propose now to accompany him in a few [excursions to the surrounding country. A raornmg's 108 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. ramble to the Tlains of Abraham will not fail to recal historical recollections and to gratify a taste for beauti<'ul scenery. On leaving the St. Louis Gate, let the Traveller ascend the counterscarp on the left, that leads to the Glacis of the Citadel ; and hence pursuing a direction to the ric^ht, let him approach one of the Martello Towers^ whence he may enjoy a beautiful view of the bt. Law- rence. A little beyond let him ascend the right bank, and he reaches the celebrated Plains of Abraham near the spot Avhere General Wolfe fell. On the highest ground, surrounded by wooden fences, can clearly be tracea. out the redoubt where he received the fatal wound. He was carried afew yards the rear and placed against a rock till he expired. It has since been removed. Within an enclosure lower down and near to the road is the stone- well from which they brought him water. The English right nearly faced this redoubt, and on this position the F^rench left rested. The French army arrived on the Plains from the right of this position, as it came from Beauport and not from Quebec ; and, on being defeated, retired down the heights by which it had ascended, and not into Quebec. In front of the Plains from this posi- tion stands the house of Marchmont. It is erected on the site of a French redoubt that once defended the ascent from Wolfe's Cove. Here landed the British army under Wolfe's command, and, on mounting the banks, carried this detached work. The troops in the Garrison are usually reviewed on the Plains.— The Tourist may farther enjoy a beautiful ride. Let him leave by St. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 109 t fail to recal te for beauti^'ul it the Traveller Is to the Glacis irection to the rtello Towers? the St. Lavv- the right bank, raham near the highest ground, be trace'l out ound. He was [ against a rock d. Within an ad is the stone- . The English :his position the arrived on the s it came from being defeated, d ascended, and from this posi- It is erected on ie defended the ded the British )n mounting the be troops in the IS.— The Tourist him leave by St. Loufs Gate and pass the Plains, and he will arrive at Marchmont, the property of John Gilmour, Esq. The former proprietor, Sir John Harvey, went to considerable expense in laying oul the grounds in a pleasing and taste- ful manner. His successor. Sir Thomas Noel Hill, also resided here, and duly appreciated its beauties. The view in front of the house is grand. Here the River widens and assumes the appearance of a lake, whose sur- face is enlivened by numerous merchant-ships at anchor, and immense rafts of timber floated down from various parts of the Upper Province for shipment to England, timber being one of the principal exports from the Cana- das. On leaving Marchmont he will pass some beautiful villas, whose park-like grounds remind one of England, and from some points in which are commanded views worthy of a painter's study. Among these villas may be mentioned Wolfesfield, Spencer Wood, and Woodfield, The last was originally built by the Catholic Bishop of Samos, and, from the several additions made by subsequent proprietors, had a somewhat irregular^ though picturesque, appearance. It was burnt down, and rebuilt in a fine re- gular style. It is now the residence of James Gibb, Esq. In this neighbourhood is situated Mount Ilermon Cemetery. It is about three miles from Quebec on the south side of the St. Lewis Ptoad, and slopes irregularly but beautifully down the cliff which overhangs the St. Lawrence. It is thirty-two acres in extent, and the grounds were tastefully laid out by the late Major Doug- lass, U. S. Engineers, whose taste and skill had been pre- D 7^-r no THE CANADIAN TOURIST. i Tiously shewn in the arrangement of Greenwood Ceme- tery, near New York. A carriage drive upwards, of two miles in extent, affords access to all parts of the grounds, and has been so arranged as to afford the most perfect view of the scenery. The visitor, after driving over the smooth lawn-like open surface, finds himself suddenly trans- ferred by a turn of the road into a dark avenue of stately forest trees, from which he emerges to see tlie broad St . Lawrence almost beneath him, with the City of Quebec, and the beautiful slopes of Point Levi in the distance. Many beautiful monuments now adorn the grounds, some of which are from Montreal and some from Scotland, but the great majority are the productions of Mr. Felix Morgan, of Quebec, and do great credit to his taste and skill. Many of them are beautiful and costly structures of Italian marble. A neat Gothic Lodge at the entrance of the grounds, contains the office and residence of the superintendent. In the former a complete plan of the grounds is kept, every separate grave being marked upon it with its appropriate number, so that at any future time, on consulting it, the exact spot of interment can be ascertained, and the Register which is also kept affords information, respecting the places of birth, age, and date of death. A large vault, perfectly secured with iron doors, has been constructed for the pur- pose of receiving bodies, during the winter when immediate interment is not desired ; and it is contemplated shortly to erect a suitable stone chapel in the Gothic style, the plana anil snecitications of which have been prepared. ^ THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Ill On leaving this lovely spot, the ride continues through the woods on the edge of the banks rising from the shore. On the south side are distinguished the embouchures of the Etchemin and Chaudidre pouring in their tribute of waters. At Pointe aux Puisseaux the road leads down to Sillerj Cove. Tiie view from this point would afford an excellent composition for the brush of the landscape-painter. Be- fore reaching the ascent to the villa of the late Mr* Macnider is an old stone house, formerly inhabited by the heroine of ^* Emily Montague," near which are the ruins of what was once a large stone chapel. Such visitants as are unacquainted with this novel will find in it a faithful picture of the manners and condition of the Colonist when Canada first became a British colony. A mile beyond is the villa of Kilgraston. Hence the Tourist, instead of returning by a road conducting through a wood into St. Louis Pvoad for Quebec, will do better by contin- uing his ride to the Church of St. Foy, from which is seed below the St. Charles gliding smoothly through a lovely valley, whose sides rise gradually to the mountains and are literally covered with habitations. The villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg are conspicuous objects. Before enter- ing the Suburb of St. John, on the banks of St. Charles stands the General Hospital, designed, as the name implies, for the disabled and sick of every description. Charlevoix says that " it is the finest house in Canada, and would b« no disparagement to our largest houses in France ; the Fathers Recollets formerly owned the ground on which it c^nn/la IVT Am. C«- "ir-»ii: T3:_i ^c r\..-i 1 -T<'^wsw.-*-'^''-f."*^y:''?3j'i'-"" 112 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. the the m into tne city, bought their settlements, and expended one hundred thousand ciowns in building, furniture, and foundations." The first ecclesiastics in Canada were Recollets, four in number, brought out by Champlain in 1615. Their original habitation, consisting of a small lodge and seminary, was on the spot where the General Hospital now stands. It was commenced before 1620. In 1690 the Recollets were induced to remove to grounds where the Episcopal Church now stands. This founda- tion was at first under the chargjB of the Sisters of the Congregation, but in 1692 under that of the Hospitalieres or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu ; from which comujunity it received its Superior and twelve professed Nuns. In 1701 the Nuns of the General Hospital were made a separate and independent community, -^t present it is governed by a Superior, at the head of fifty Nuns and a few Novices and Postulantes. The appearance, exter- nal and internal, is regular and pleasing. The male patients are lodged on the ground-floor, and the females in that above. The Nuns are distinguished for the manu- facture of Church ornaments and for their skill in gilUing. 1'he produce of their works is added to the general fund of the Institution, whose support is chiefly drawn from the revenue of the landed property that has been granted to it from time to time. The deficiency is sometimes supplied by grants from the Provincial Parliament. A neat chapel is attached to the establishment. On the opposite side of the road are two houses, one of which was appropriated to the treatment of persons labouring under insanity, who id expended rniture, and inada were hamplain in of a small the General efore 1620. e to grounds rhis founda- isters of the lospitali^res ominunity it I Nuns. In ^ere made a present it is Nuns and a ranee, exter- . The male :he females in or the manu- ^ill in gilUing. general fund awn from the ;n granted to times supplied A neat chapel pposite side of appropriated insanity, who THE CANADIAN TOURIST. I13 have since ^been removed to the Government Lunatic Asylum at Beauport, and the other as a dwelling-house for ^ servants employed in a farm belonging to the establishment A day s excursion to Indian Lorette and Lake St! Charles would gratify, we doubt not, many a Tourist It will be necessary to leave by -six o'clock, A. M., and to take provisions for the day. A caliche is the best con- veyance for the trip. After leaving the Palace Gate, the site of the iormer Intendant's Palace is passed. M. Bioot was the last Intendant^who resided in it. ar7\T%^^T"' '""^ '' ^'''''' ^' ^'^"^ '^^ banks of the bt. Charles. On arriving at the village, the best view ,s on the opposite bank. The fall is in the fore- ground, and .he church and village hehind. The villagers daim to be descended from thosa Hurons, to whom^he French Monarch in I60I gave the seigniory of Sillery. In the wars between the French and English the Hurons eontnbuted much to the success of the^ former, as they -ere one of the most warlike tribes among the aborigines oft . con ment. At present .hey ar^ a harmless quiet e of people, drawmg only part of their subsistence from Jshmg and hunting. A Missionary is maintained by Government for their religious instruction, and the school- bow and arrows, and moccasins very neatly ornamented by the squaws. On arriving at Lake St. Charles, by embarking in a double canoe, the tourist will have his taste for picturesque mounf'^'" ="•» -•/.,. , - - ' "' ^"^"'''y g^'^^'fi*^^ '" a high degree. The lake is TT , .^^'^^j.-^-.af.".]j^ Tj y^.' t!a tl4 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. four miles long amd one broad, and is divided into two parts by projectincr ledges. The lake abounds in trout, so that the angling tourist may find this spot doubly inviting. On the route back to the city the village of Charlesbourg is pfjssed. It is one of the oldest and most interesting settle- ments in Canada. It has two churches, one of which is the centre ol the surrounding farms, whence they all radi- ate. The reason for this singular disposal of the allotments arose from the absolute necessity of creatmg a neighbour- hood. For this purpose each farm was permitted to oc- cupy only a space of three acres in front by thirty in depth. Population was in these days scanty, and labourers were difficult to be procnred. By this arrangement a road was more easily kept up in front of each farm, and it was the duty of every proprietor to preserve such road. Another advantage was the proximity of the church, whence the bell sounded the tocsin of alarm, whenever hostile attempts were made by the Indians, and where the inhabitants rallied in defence of their possessions. In this place we are desirous to acknowledge our obligations to the labours of Alfred Hawkins, Esq. whose." Picture of Quebec with Historical Recollec- tions" we cordially recommend to all Travellers and others, who would possess themselves of a work re- plete with minute information on the previous history and present condition of this Province. We take the liberty of presenting our readers almost 'verbatim with the fol- lowing interesting extracts, and thus conclude our notice of the ancient Capital of Canada.— The approach to the THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 115 Citadel, which is nearly two hundred feet higher than the ground on which the Upper Town is situated, is by a winding road made through the acclivity of the Glacis from St. Louis Gate, and commanded everywhere by the guns of the different bastions. This leads into the out- ward ditch of the ravelin, and thence into the principal ditch of the work, built on both sides with walls of solid masonry, and extending along the whole circumference of the Citadel on the land and city sides. The main entrance is through a massive gate of admirable construction, called Dalhousie Gate in honour of the Earl of Dalhousie, who succeeded the Duke of Richmond, as Governor-in-Chief of these Provinces, in 1820. Within are the Main- Guard-rooms for a detachment and an officer, who are relieved every day ; and in front is a spacious area used as a parade-ground, or rather an enlargement of the ditch formed by the retiring angles and face of the bastion. This IS a splendid work, presenting a most august appear- ance, and combining strength and symmetry with all the modern improvements in the art of fortification. In the face of this bastion are loopholes for the fire of musquetry ; on the top are embrasures for cannon. The loopholes serve also for the admission of air and light into the case- mated barracks within for the troops composing the Gar- rison. They are commodious and well adapted for com- fort and safety, being well ventilated, and proof against fire and missiles of every description. On the top of Dalhousie Bastion is an extensive covered way, or broad gravel walk, with embrasures for mounting cannon, com- ■MP hfcjUliMMH—^' -— 116 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. manding every part of the Ditch and Glacis, and every avenue of approach to the Citadel. From this elevated spot is obtained an extensive and delightful view of the surrounding scentry, forming a panorama that competent judges have pronounced not inferior to the celebrated Bay of Naples. An equally magnificent view is obtained from the summit of the Cavalier, at the eastern ex- tremity of tiie Citadel, and also from the Observatory on its western point towards the Plains of Abraham. Within the Citadel are the various magazines, store- houses, and other buildings required for the accom- modation ot a numerous Garrison ; and immediately .overhanging the precipice to the south, in a most pic- turesque situation looking perpendicularly downwards on the River, stands a beautiful row of buildings, containing the mess rooms and barracks for the officers, their stables and spacious kitchens. The fortifications, which are continued round the whole of the Upper Town , consist of bastions connected by lofty curtains of solid masonry, and ramparts from twenty-five to thirty-five feet in height and about the same in thickness, bristling with heavy cannon, round towers, loopholed walls, and mas sive gates recurring at certain distances. On the summit of the Ramparts from Cape Diamond to the Artillery Barracks is a broad covered-way or walk, used as a place of recreation by the inhabitants, and commanding a most agreeable view of the country towards the west. This passes over the top of St. John's and St. Louis Gate,, where there is stationed a sergeant's guard. Above St TFIE CANADIAN TOURIST. 117 s, and mas John's Gate lliere is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The fet. Charles gamboling, as it were, in the rays of the departing; luminary, the light still linger- ing on the spires of Lorette and Cliarlesbourg until it fades away beyond the lofty mountains of BonJiomme and Tmicnontlma?!, present an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendour. — The city, being defended on the land side by its ramparts, is protected on the other sides by a lofty wall and parapet, based on the clift* and com- mencino- near the St. Charles at the Artillery Barracks. These form a very extensive range of buildings, the part within the Artillery-Gate being occupied as barracks by the officers and men of that distinguished corps, with a guard and mess room, '^i'he part without the Gate is \ised as magazines, storehouses, and offices for the Ordnance Department. These buildings were erected by the French before 17o0 on the site of others which had formerly stood there. They are well secured against lire, and are nearly six hundred feet in length by about forty in depth. — Immediately adjoining the Artillery Barracks, and con- necting the works on the left with their continuation along the St. Charles, stands Palace-Gate, having a guard-house attached on the right. This has lately been rebuilt, and is the most classical and beautiful of the five Gates. Though perfectly strong for all purposes of defence, it has an airy and light appearance, not unlike in design the gates of Pompeii. It stands at the northern extremity of PolQr»a Rfrppt whiVh w'AK sn rallftd from leading? to the Intendant's House or Palace, which formerly stood on the J 118 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. beacii of the St. Charles outside of the Gate, on the .4te ofthe|present Queen's Wood-yard. This bui'ding was destroyed during the sieoe by the American troops under General Arnold in 1775* From Palace-Gate the fortifi- cations are contitmed along the brow of the cliff overlook- ing the mouth of the St. Charles until they reacb Hope- Gate, a distance of three hundred yards. A broad and level walk divides the outward waif from the possessions of the community of the Hotel-Dieu. The wall near Hope-Gate and Guard-house is loopholed for musquetiy. At Hope-Gate commences the gradual elevation of the ground which terminates at the eastern point of Cape Dia- mond.- Beyond the Gate the wall is continued until it reaches a point op|)Osite St. George Street and the store house at the angle of the Seminary Garden. Here it reaches the perpendicular cliff Saiilt an Matelot, or Ma- te'ot's (Sailor's) Leap, so called from a favourite dog of that name that there fell over the cliff, on part of which Champlain commenced his first settlement in 1608. From this eminence the Grand Battery, mounting a range of heavy guns carrying balls of thirty-two pounds, comminds the Basin and Harbour below. In front of the Grand Battery, which extends to the Bishop's Palace, and where the escarpment of the cliff is nearly three hundred feet above the wa^er, the stone parapet is but a few feet high. The black artillery, as Professor Silliman observes, " look like beasts of prey crouching and ready to leap upon their Victims." OiOSe lO lUC Ul»UU|> a xasau^, jvt=^ - --- as the place where the Provincial Legislature met, , on the .site uiMing was iroops under B the fortifi- iff overlook- iach Ilope- . broad and possessions e wall near ■ inusquetiy. ation of the ,f Cape Dia- nued until it ind the store en. Here it '.elot, or Ma- ourite dog of part of which 1608. From j£ a ranjje of Is, coujiTiinds of the Grand ;e, and where hundred feet few feet high, serves, " look sap upon their ed THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Guard- 119 Under its r-. Inntv llttO risiuiure met, ,s I'rescott-Gate with m uuaru-house. arch is the principal avenue to the Lower-Town by Mountain Street. It is protected by powerful Jefences, and by works which connect it on the right with the for- mer Castle of St. Louis. HeVe the stone-rampart forms part of that ruin, and is supported by buttresses budt upon the solid rock, and immediately overlooking the Lower Town, at an elevation of n>ore than two hundred feet To the south-west side of the Castle is the Government Garden, one hund.ed .nd eighty yards long by seventy broad, within which a small battery commands part of the harbour. In front, the fortifications are contmued three hundred yards, until they reach the foot of the Glaas or acclivity towards Cai-e Diamond, crowned at that point b. the Round Tower and Flagstaff. The extent of the Ramparts towards the land-side, from the south-west an- .le of the citadel to the clfff above the St. Charles, .s rtated to be eighteen hundred and thirty-seven yards- Wrthin this rampart is the Esplanade, a levef space cove^ ed with grass, between St. Louis and St. Jo n s Gate, Here are mounted the several guards on duty at the Citadel and other public buildings each forenoon, except Sabbath, at eleven o'clock ; and here occasional parades of the Garrison take place, particularly on the Queen s birth-day. The circuit of the Fortifications enclosing the Upper Town is two miles and three quarters ; the total circumference outside the ditches and space reserved by Government, on which no house can be bmlt on the west /-t ii« cnoaVincf- the L/llV side, is about three miies. vjuucia^v ^i- ^, 120 THE CANADIAN TOUHIST. may be said to be entirely surrounded by a lofty and strong wall of hewn stone, constructed with elegance as well as . with regard to durability. The castellated appearance produced by the battlenjents, ditches, embrasures, round towers and gates, adds much to its grand and imposing effect from without. There are five Gates, opening in dif- ferent directions to the country, the suburbs, and the •Lower Town. Towards the south-west are St. John's and St. Louis Gates, protected by out-works of great strength and powerful combination. Through the latter is the road leading to the Plains of Abraham and the Race-conrse. On the left of this road, on the brow of a slight ascent about halfway to the Race-Stand, is one of the four Martello Towers erected at different distances between the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles. On these are mounted cannon to sweep the undefended plain below ; and they are so constructed that, if taken by an enemy, they can be easily laid in ruins by the shot of the Garrison, while on the side facing the Plains they are of immense thickness. Through St. John's Gate passes the road to the populous suburb of that name and to the beau- tiful village of St. Foy. Palace-Gate and Hope-Gate open to the St. Charles and the Lower Town. Prescott- Gate is the principal thoroughfare to the Lower Town, and notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent, heavy burdens are conveyed up with comparative ease by the small, but hardy, horses of Norman breed, which the carters ffenerallv emnlov. TTonft Gatp nnH Prpspnft fiotp are called in honour of the Lieutenant Generals anxi D 2 « iiy and strong ICC as well as d appearance •asures, round and imposing opening in dif- irhs, and the re St. John's orks of great ugh the latter ham and the the brow of a and, is one of ent distances 2^harles. On efended plain taken by an e shot of the 5 they are of ite passes the to the beau- I Hope-Gate . Prescott- jower Town, scent, heavy ease by the , which the . «...«^ ..... . ^ n ^^_, renerals an^ THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 121 ^ Commanders-in-Chief, Henry Hope (1775) and Robert Pri.'scott (179t)-9). — Having made the circuit of tlie Fortifications, it seems necessary to notice the different barracks and military buildings for the accomodation of the troops composing the Carrison. Besides those con- tained within the (Jitadel and tlie Artillery I^arracks, the spacious building in the Market-Phice, fornierly the Col- lege of the Jesuits, has long been occupied by the Queen's troops under the name of the " Jesuits' Barracks." The principal entrance is from the Market- Place, opposite the French Cathedral. To the left of this entrance is a large door opening into a hall. Here is the room set apart for the Garrison Library, the property of the military, con- taining many valuable books and maps. A little beyond the Gate is the Bar rack-office, neirly opposite to the Scotch Church. — In the Place d'Armes, opposite to the Court-House,is the Commissariat Office. — About halfway between this and St. Louis Gate is a building on the left, occupied as quarters for such oflit^'rs of the Garrison as do not reside in the Citadel, in rear of which is tlie spaci- ous mess-room. — At the end of an avenue or court lead- ing out of St. Louis Street is the Military Hospital, a building completely provided with every necessary appointment. — Adjoining to the St. Louis Gate, and fronting to the Esplanade, is the Royal Engineer Office ; and in the rear are the spacious yard and vvorkshops of the Royal Sappers and Miners, a detachment of which corps Engineers have charge of the fortifications and of all mill- J22 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. tary works.-The Government Laboratory is on the right hand of the road leading to the Citadel, opposite to the Royal Engineer Yard, and stands on the site of an old powder magazine, close to which the remains of General Montgomery were interred on January 4th, 177b. ihe following elegant peroration is from the pen of Professor SiUiman, who visited Quebec in 1819 :— " Quebec, at least for an American city, .s certainly a very peculiar place. A military town-containmg about twenty thousand inhabitants-most compactly and perma- nently built-environed, as to its most important parts, by walls and gates-and defended by nnraerous heavy cannon -garrisoned by troops having the arms, the costume the mutic.the discipline, of Europe-foreign in language, feat- ures and origin, from most of those whom they are sent to def. nd-founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country-between three and four hundred miles from the ocean-inthe midst of a great continent and yet displaymg fleets of foreign merchantmen in its fine capacious bay-and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea-port-its streets narrow, populous, and wind- ino- up and down almost mountainous declivities-situated in° he latitude of the finest parts of Europe-exhibiting in its environs the beauty of an European capital-and yet in winter smarting with the cold of Siberia-governed by a people of diffe-ent language and habits from the mass ot the population-opiiosed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes and in the full enjoyment of every "^ . . .:_:■ ...,i .<.i;„;mi« Such are the prominent piiviiege, civii """ ivg.^" - - -- THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 123 features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec !" The Tourist will of course visit the Fall of Montmo- renci, and, if an admirer of nature in her lovely grandeur, may be induced thereafter to extend his excursion to the Falls of St. Anne (a distance of upwards of twenty miles from Quebec), which inany travellers have pronounced unsurpassed in any quarter of the globe. For this pur- pose he will leave the City by passing over Dorchester Bridge across the St. Charles, whence he will pass alon;> pleasant cottages and handsome viilas to the village of Beauport, in which is conspicuous the Church with ils three spires. The admirably managed Lunatic Asy- lum for Eastern Canada is situated close to the vil- lage. Before reaching the Mills a road on the left leads to the hamlet of Bourg Royal at the base of the mountains. Two miles beyond are the remains of an old French chateau with a scanty clearance embosomed by the forest. It was built by a French Intendant or Governor for his mistress. Notwithstanding the se- clusion of the spot his wife discovered the secret, and found means to have her rival poisoned. The habi- tans superstitiously consider the spot as haunted by the spirit of the unhappy one. During General Wolfe's siege the ladies of Quebec took shelter here, and were undis- covered. In the neighbourhood of the Fall the geologist may find not a little to interest him. The Fall is near- ly two hundred and fifty feet high, thus greatly exceeding the Falls of Niagara. It was named by Champ'ain in honour of his natron, the Duke de Montmorenci. orime Jm 124 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. minister of France. The mansion-house, close to the Fall, and commanding the best view of it, was built by General Haldimand, who was the last Governor of the Province of Quebec from 1778 to 1791. It was after- wards occupied by the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, and is now in the possession of G. B. Hall, Esq., the proprietor of the extensive saw-mills at the foot of the Fall. Near this place Wolfe made his first attempt, and was repulsed with the loss of seven hundred Hessians. On the opposite side of the wooden bridge thrown across the Montmorenci, stands a house for the reception of travellers, whence is an excellent view of the Fall, as it embraces the village of Beauport and the city of Quebec. Another good view is from the top of the aqueduct, by which the water is conveyed for nearly a mile to the Mills. The Old xMill has ten saw-gates con- taining seventy saws, and eleven circular saws. The New Mill has two saw-gates with forty saws, and three circular saws. The extraordinary appearance, called the Natural Steps, is worthy of attention. It may be re- marked as an object of interest to the naturalist, that^ when the St. Lawrence is frozen below the Fall, the level ice becomes a support on which the freezing spray, de- scending as sleet, forms a stupendous deposit, and -gradual- ly assumes a conical form of great dimensions towards the close of winter. These dimensions vary in each season according to the quantity of spray which the water pro- duces. In 1829 the cone attained the height of one liuuarea ana iweniy-six icui, lue ujjjiiuc;, i- ua^ i4- Vtno noAti f\it h. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 125 served to attain. The face of the cone next the Fall presents a stalactitlcal structure, occasioned by the dash- ing of the water against it. The whole is tinged with an earthy hue, which is no doubt derived from the very mi ute particles of the bed of the Montmorenci conveyed with the spray into the atmosphere. The formation of this cone may serve to explain the mode in which glacierc. have been formed. It is manifest, that, were the supply of frozen spray never interrupted by an increase of tem- perature, as is annually the case, the cone's dimensions would incessantly increase. If the cone rested on an inclined plane instead of a horizontal base, the enlarging bulk and increasing weight would at length cause its sub- sidence to lower levels. As the portion thus deposited would continue to receive accessions from above, a perma- ment frozen mass would be the result, and the cone would become a glacier. Professor Forbes treats of this sub- ject in a most interesting and scientific manner in his " Travels in the Alps." — A Suspension Bridge is erecting immediately over the Falls, which will add greatly to the effect of this charming scene. It is unnecessary to enumer- ate the variety of features in Canadian scenery which may induce the Tourist to loiter on the road between Mont- morenci and St. Anne. At this season of the year groups of Canadians of both sexes may be seen busily employed in hacJding or beating flax. On most of the farms there is raised a quantity sufficient for the consumption of each family. Indeed the stranger cannot fail to have observed, tlmt ihn l^nunfrv nnnnlnfinn ic /»!iipflv rlnfliPil in hnmP- r mm/mamm t \ ^ t \ 126 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. spun woollen cloth and coarse linen, although English broad-cloth and Irish linens may to a limited extent be displayed on Sabbaths and f^te-days. Chateau Richer, one of the very few ruins in Canada, belonging to the Seminary, is interesting from historical associations. Its environs aftord abundant sport to snipe-shooters. Two miles beyond the Chateau it is worth the Tourist's while to devote half an hour to the Falls of La Puce. The Church of " La bonne Ste. Anne" has long been an ob- ject of interest from the miraculous cures said to have been wrought on the visitors to the shrine. The walls dis- play crutches and other helps to suffering humanity, with which the halt and the lame were enabled to dispense, and which they left as memorials of the efficacy of their faith in the power of the Saint ! In connection with St. Anne it may be stated that pigeons in vast numbers yearly visit Canada, when the inhabitants not only get an ample supply for their own subsistence, but send such numbers to mar- ket that in Quebec they are sold at as low a price as a shilling per dozen, and sometimes even at a less rate. The parishioners of St. Anne nre much spoken of for the suc- cessful means which they have adopted for killing and taking alive thousands of these birds ; and the stranger on enquiry can learn the method, by which the sportsman seldom fails to bring down all the pigeons as they settle on the loftiest trees, and how, by means of perpendicular nets and poles managed by pulleys, whole flocks are entrapped. Two miles beyond the village of St. Anne, at Uie ioii-Diiage ou me nver oi luis iiuuic, luu iuujjsi .. i English xtent be I Richer, or to the ons. Its s. Two st's while ce. The jn an ob- to have walls dis- nity, with )ense, and their faith St. Anne Barly visit pie supply s to mar- price as a ite. The T the sue- illing and 5 stranger sportsman they settle pendicurar flocks are St. Anne, <• THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 127 may be comfortably accommodatt'd, and will meet with civility and kindness. Hence he can procure a guide to the Falls, which are situated about three miles further on. The ascent commands extensive views of Quebec and the surrounding country. After continuing his journey for a mile and a half on a level but rather rough and wearisome path through a forest, the Tourist suddenly descends and finds himself enclosed in a r^cky and wooded valley, throuo-li the centre of which rushes the St. Anne, and, forcing itself through a narrow chasm of the rocks at an an<^le of forty-five degrees, continues to roar and tumble to the River below. We cannot afford space here for a description of the variety of awfully grand and imposing scenes, which a visit to these magnificent Falls will present to the Tourist's view. Suffice it to say, that the time slips unconsciously away, and, surprised by the information that he has been on the spot for hours, he at length reluc- tantly turns aways, consoling himself with the reflection that he can never efface the sublime picture from his mind. The Tourist should next cross from Quebec to Pointe Levi, with which a steam-ferry-boat keeps up a cons- tant communication, with the view of visiting the Falls of the Chaudiere, distant about eiglit miles. On ascend- ing- the bank, and from diff"erent points along the entire road to the mouth of the Chaudiere, he will be gratified with imposing views of Quebec and its shipping, and sur- rounding scenery, including the Isle of Orleans, the Fall of IVTontmorenci, and the Plains of Abraham. Several - _•!! J xl._ 1 :^ ...K:»U #.itirroiic rtf r^iipVtgc rp- lieai ViiiuS aUUrii iiiw iUiiUj Hi rti.ik\.ii i-tna. i:~ —- -i, I 128 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. ! I side during the summer season. At a short distance be- yond Lauzon, the seat of Sir Henry Caldv^ell, which is in a charming situation, you cross the Etchemin by a wooden bridge. Ac its embouchure is a large causeway leading to this gentleman's mills, an establishment well worthy ot in- spection, ^rhei ciifter the left side of the road is overshad- owed by lofty rocks till it reaches the Chaudiere, which is crossecTljy a ferry. Three miles bey^d is a new road to the left, by pursuing which for a mile, availing yourself of a guide, who may be procured hard by, you will reach this celebrated Fall. Although yielding in grandeur to Nia- gara and Montmorenci, it possesses features more inter- esting than either. The river, in its course of one hun- dred miles over a rugged bed full of rapids and falls, is here narrowed to a width of between three hundred and four hundred feet, and is precipitated over a height of about one hundred and thirty feet, preserving the charac- teristic features of its hoili7ig waters till it mingles with the St. Lawrence. Hence it has received the appropri- ate name of Chaudiere or Caldro7i. Instead of descend- ing in one continuous sheet, it is divided by large project- ing rocks into three channels or cataracts, which however unite before reachmg the basin below. A globular figure is imparted to the descending volumes of brilliant white foam, in consequence of the deep excavatio. s of tbe rocks, and the clouds of spray produce in the sunshine a most brilliant variety of prismatic colours. The dark green foliao-e of the dense forests that overhang the torrent on O .... 1 -A^ both si des, forms a striking contrast with its snow- X.'4.^ VViiilC THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 129 foam. If the Tourist should be so nfinded, on returning half way to Pointe Levi, he may visit the Falls of the Etchemin by taking the road to his right. On retyrning to Pointe Levi, he may find time to walk to Aubigny Church, and wander for a while amongst the glades in front of it. In recrossing the St. Lawrence, the Tourist may be reminded of the striking contrast which the winter season presents here on land and water. Then the river is generally choked up with broken fields of ice exhibiting an endless variety of fantastic appearances. The habi- tans cross in canoes, and are frequently obliged to haul and push them forward among the blocks of ice. It is a rare occurrence for tbe ice lo be quite firm between Que- bec and Pointe Levi. When this is the case a sort of jubilee is indulged m, and persons are seen enjoying themselves in every direction by sleighing, sliding, skating, curling, &c. A ready communication betwixt both shores then takes place, as the track marked out by means of pine- branches as beacons, forms a road, over which hay, fire- wood, and other bulky articles are transported in traineavx or sledges. A similar laying-out of roads takes | lace on the taking of the River at all the important thoroughfares, as in front of Montreal, Three Rivers, &c. The channel between the Isle of Orleans and the North Shore is frozen over annually, when the produce of that fertile spot can be conveyed to market. Thus far we have brought our companions, and various are the scenes of interest we have visited with them, but we fear with manv our fellowshin will cease at the wharves 130 I THE CANADIAN TOURIST. .-^ of the ancient city ; yet we trust that a large " balance," to use an Americanism, will still continue their journey East, for a voyage to the iSaguenay and the Lower St, Lawrence oflers temptations tiiat ought not to beresii-ted. Formerly this voyage was only made by the young andtha hardy, for no means existed of reaching it except in fish- ing schooners or open boats. Now, things are entirely changed, steamhoats, well fitted for the work, leave Que- bec twice a week, and «re this summer's navigation closet probably daily. In any of these the trip may be made in perfect comfort and even luxury. For what these induce- ments are and how the time may be spent, we avail our- selves of the description of one of last yeari> voyages^ furnished by a gentleman equally capable of appreciating and describing the scenery through which h^ passed. Trip to the Saguenay. " The Saguenay River can only be visited by to urists when there happens to be a steamboat put on for that ex- cursion especially, which is generally once a week, from Quebec during the summer months. You leave in the morning at seven o'clock, and passing down the St. Law- rence, put in at several places for passengers, which gives an opportunity of seeing the hahitans, and the old fashioned French settlements of St. Thomas, River Quelle, Kamouraska, and many others, together with Orleans Island, Crane Island, Goose Island and the Pil- grims. The north and south shores of the river are thickly studded with parish churches, having spires of tin THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 131 whioh glitter in the sun like shining silver ; these, and the whitewashed farm-houses, form two objects characteristic of Lower Canada. By sunset you arrive at Uiver du Loup. The water is quite salt, and the river, expanding to tiie breadth of twenty miles, gives it the appearance of an open sea ; and it is much frequented as a sea-bathing place. <» Here you remain all night on board, so as to be ready for an early start at dawn, when you stretch across for the north shore, steering for a great gap in the mountains. This is the mouth of the Saguenay, one of the most sin- gular rivers in the world ; not a common river, with undu- iuting banks and shelving shores, and populous villages : not a river precipitous on one side, and rolling land on the -^ther, formed by the washing away of the mountains for ages. This is not a river of that description. It is per- fectly straight, with a sheer precipice on each side, without any windings, or projecting bluffs, or sloping banks, or sandy shores. It is as if the mountain range had been cleft asunder, leaving a horrid gulf of sixty miles in length, and four thousand feet in depth, through the grey mica schist ; and still looking new and fresh. Fifteen hundred feet of this is perpendicular cliff, often too steep and solid for the hemlock or dwarf oak to find root ; in which case, being covered with coloured lichens and moss, these fresh looking fractures often look, in shape and colour, like painted fans, and are called the pictured rocks. But those parts, more slanting, are thickly covered with stunted trees, spruce and maple, and birch, growing wherever they 132 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. I I can find crevices to extract nourishment : and the bare roots of the oak, grasping the rock, have a resemblance to oit Canatlian pony and a good view of the country and its people, to the rapid and view des- troying railrcad-car. The railway bridge is of iron, rest- ing on nine piers, and to all but the traveller, who cannot see much of it, is an object of great attraction. The road is thro Jgh a country that, for the greater part, is thinly settled, yet the intelligent observer will remark that the land is of a superior quality nearly throughout, so that in a few years a large population will soon occupy it. As it is there are only two or three villages on the whole route, Somerset, Stanfold and Danville being the most t'lriving. At Richmond, ninety-six miles from Quebec, th^ road joins the Portland and Montreal branch— distant from the latter seventy miles. At Richmond the company have built a very comfortable station-house, with engine- houses, workshops, &c., or ' ^ --^njo THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 137 At this place the cars from Montreal to Portland meet those we have just arrived in from Quebec, and keep the "track clear." We shall go back to Montreal to meet and bring along those of our friends Avho may have stopped short there. Montreal to Richmond by Railway. Travellers going South have the choice of three routes, one by the St. Lawrence and Champlain Railroad, another by the Montreal and New York Railroad, via Plattsburgh, whence passengers arc conveyed by steamer to Burlington, where they have a choice of routes, and the third by the Eastern Townsiiips to Portland. If the first is preferred the ferry steamboat must be taken to St. Lambert, immediately opposite the city, where the cars await the passengers — starting twice every day. If the second, cars are taken to Lachine, thence across the St. Lawrence to the Indian Village of Caughnawaga,andfrora that by rail to Plattsburgh. The route by Portland is by far the most interesting, and, though less known as yet, is rapidly rising in the estimation of the travelling community. And assuming that our friends will follow our advice, we shall embark in ihe steamer for the Longueuil Station, three miles below the town, aud taking another view of the lovely Island of St. Helens, join the cars for Portland. The road proceeds through a dead level country, thickly settled by Canadians, whose white-washed cottages and long strips of land, with straight rail fences, gives a curious and by no means pleasing aspect to the landscape. The 1 I ^!i: i I 138 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. first break on the monotony is the arrival at the Kichelieu River, a broad and clear stream, connecting Lake Cliam- plain with the St. Lawrence, into which it falls at Sorel. The cars go slowly over the large bridge which spans the river, and the traveller gets a beautiful view both up and down— looking upon one of the most fertile districts of Canada ; naturally, at least, fertile— for the impoverishino system of culture unfortunately pursued by the habitans hat nearly exhausted the soil. It would be unfair, however, not to state that a great improvement begins to manifest itself in this respect, so much so that we venture to say, if the march of improvement goes on for ten years at (he rate it has down for the last five, the valley of the Riche- lieu will again become the granary of Lower Canada, a land flowing with milk and honey. A mile or so after crossing the bridge the cars stop at St. Hilaire Station. Lnmediately below the road is seen the fine residence and grounds of Majo C unpbell, late of the 7th Hussars, a Scotch gentleman, owner of the Seigniory of Rouville. To the right is seen the Vloun- taia of Belceil, one of those singular hills of which several rise suddenly from th(» perfectly level country lying be- tween the Vermont Mountains and the St. Lawrence. To the top of this mountain there is a good road, and from th3 summit a superb view is obtained of the Richelieu, the St. Lawrence, and the entrance to Lake Cl.amplain. In a basin near the top is a singular little lake of deep, clear, and cool water. The distance from Montreal being so little, a trip to visit the mountnin and the lake is a t THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 139 favourite Saturday's amusement for the good people of the city, and the tourist, whose time permits, will llnd a few hours stay here by no means unprofitably spent. And if he chooses to delay longer he will find every com- fort in the Hotel at the foot of the mountain, for which accommodation the public is indebted to Major Campbell. Around this place the traveller will see many symptoms of the agricultural improvement above alluded to, and this mainly owing to the example of the gentleman we have just named, whose exertions to introduce improvement in system, breeds of cattle, seeds, &:c., among his censitaircs, are above all praise. From St. Hilaire the cars proceed through the same level country to St. Ilyacinthe, and on the route there is nothing to remark — every house and every farm so nearly resembles those just past, all through the seignories, that if we could be set down after a dream in any one part of the country, it would be impossible for him to tell whether he was near Chambly, Sorel, Nicolet, or any where else — all through, as the writer overheard a witty Cure say, we have line maison, i{?i/ou7', un petit pont — une maison, iin four, un petit pont — a house, an oven, a little bridge — a house, an oven, and a little bridge, and so on forever. St. Hyacinthe, however, oilers a change. 'This is as nearly as possible a purely French village, or rather town, and is a remarkably clean thriving place. True it does not double its population every five yeais, and most true the inhabitants are almost all natives of the place, unlike some of the we.itern cities where no native over ten years m <1 ^1 ' 4!? I I I 140 old THE CANADIAN TOURIST. can be found. Still St. Hjaclntlje is an active bnstMn^ little town with its three tho^isand cheerful C dian inhabitants. The ana re is a College and an excellent one— a Nunnery, several large Churches, a Court House and Jail. There is also an exce'lently supplied Market, and one or two capital Hotels with civil andobliginjr hosts who do not make long bills. In the neighbourhood are many excellent gardens and orchards. "Tbe train immediately on starting crosses the Yamaska River by a handsome bridge, and in a few minutes we find ourselves in the bush— through which for a distance of thirty miles the road runs. Now a few settlers break the soliti.ue with their clearings; but stil! except at the ^ stations of Upton, A cton, and Durham, little has been done to clear away the ancient forest which formerly divided the Seigniories from the Eastern Townships. About eight miles after leaving the Durham Station, after de- scending the inclined plane bet-ween the two banks of a deep cutting, the cars suddenly rush out into the valley of St. Francis, crossing the river by a beautiful bridge full fi(ty (ect above the dark water b^low. We are now into an entirely different country— the level fields, narrow farms, straight fences, :.nd white-washed cottages, are changed for a rolling and hilly country, with rough clearings, stumps, frame-houses, and all sorts of shaped fields, with snake or straight fences as the case may be. With the country we have changed the people. A few minutes ago we heard nothing but French, and saw nothing but the grey coats and blue caps of the light hearted THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 141 speakers — now all is English, with the staid business like men of our race about the Station at Kiclimond, for heie we are at Ilichmond again ready to join our friends I'rorn Quebec. Rfchraoii:! to Gorhara Station % Railway. The view from this place is exceedinj»ly pleasing, above the station is seen the village of Ptichmond on the same side of the river, with its College on the hill, and the new Court-House on the other side, while immediately oppos- ite is the pretty little village of Melbourne. Between runs the St. Francis, here a broad but shallow river. All around is a well cleared and well fanned country, both banks sloping down to the clear water. From Richmond the country is much as we have described all tlie way to Sherbrooke. At Brompton Falls the cars stop at the St. Francis Mills, These have been built only three years ago by an enterprising firm from Maine, and it is said are the lari,'^ ^ ' and most complete saw-mllls in Canada, probably hi the world. The uani turns the whuie liver to the various flumes, and gives motion to ninety upright saws, with several circular saws and machinery for cutting laths, boxes, rails, rollers, &c. The mills are lighted by gis, manufactured in a gasometer adjoining, but so far removed as to obviate a'l danger from fire- which is further guarded against by a series of pipes and force pumps, which can in a few minutes deluge the whole build- ing, and are worked by the water power. Although built in IS.il-j already a thriving village is 142 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. ( :■ i I built around the mills. The tunber is cut around the head waters of the St. Francis, and the quantity got out every yeiiv may be judged of if the passenger will keep his eye from this up to Sherbrooke on the river, which is literally covered, i diistance of eight miles, with floating pine logs. Sherbrocla. is the uext place reached, and is the capital of the Eastern Townships. It is a place of some impor- tance, and rapidly increasing — its present population is over three thousand. The town is situated on the St. Francis and is divided into two parts by the River Magog, which descends by a succession of falls in a considerable body of water, offering great facilities for nianufactories. Many such establishments already exist ; but the property in the falls being in the hands of the British American Land Company, who will only lease the water power for a term of years, of course enterprise is checked, and the town of Sherbrooke is greatly injured by this wretched poli- cy. It is in spite of this great discouragement that the town increi]i.ses as it does. As it is there are iron-foundries, saw and grist mills, with pail, woolen, and other factories on the river. There is also a Court-House, Jail, Episcopa- lian, Independent, and Catholic Churches, with a well con- ducted Academy. The town is built upon a hi!l, and from the high ground the view up and down the valley of the St. Francis is exceedingly fine, for, though the land in the immediate vicinity is rough and broken, the country around is rich and the soil generally excellent. From this place a good road now leads to Lake Memphramagog, distant fourteen THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 143 miles. A trip to this lake is one every way interesting, the scenery being equal, and by many thouglit grander, than that of Lake George. The fishing is also excellent, particularly in the month of Mny, when an excellent fish, called the lake trout, is taken, weighing from ten to twen- ty-five pounds weight. A steamboat plies all summer for tourists. And though the road spoken of is newly opened, a journey to see the scenery of Memphramagog, and ascend the mountain called the Owl's Head, is becomins: every day more and more a favorite. Leaving Sherbrooke by Raihoad,you arrive at Lennox- ville in Ascot, distant three miles south of Sherbrooke, a beautifully situated village in the valley of the Massa- wippi, at its junction with the St. Francis. In this delightful village is situated Bishop's College and the Grammar School in connection with it. These institut- ions are admirably managed, the terms of tuition and board are moderate, and the situation is both beau- tiful and healthful. A depot is established here for the convenience of the large and thriving settlements to the eastward. From this point, an excellent carriage road jeads in an easterly direction through the fine Township of Eaton, settled now some thirty years, and thence to the new settlements of the Britif^h American Land Company in Bury and Lingwick. Eaton possesses two pretty villages, having each a comfortable country inn, and dis- tant twelve miles from Lennoxville, with which they have daily communication by stage, affording one of the pleasantest drives in the Eastern Townships. A stage 'I r 1 44« THE CANADIAN TOl RIST. i i i communication is also had thence through Bury to Ling- wick, a distance of twenty-two miles beyond which ex- tend the vast territory of unconceded lands of the Crown, ■ including the Lakes St. Francis and Megantic Mountam whose summit is supposed to be the highest point m the TownMiips. Excellent trout and other fine fish are cauaht in almost all the streams and lake., which every whe're abound in this wild region. This is now also one of the few districts in which tl.e Moose Deer is to be found in any considerable numbers. Very n.any of these, the lar.rest and noblest of Canada's wild animals, are taken both in winter and summer, and although the man- ner of hunting them at the different seasons varies very materially, it affords at all times animating and excitmg Returning to LennoxviUe, the Railroad leaves the valley of the St. Francis, proceeding up tl»at of the beautiful Massawippi, and at the distance of five miles enters the valley of the Coaticooke, at the northerly limit of the Township of Compton ; and thence up the western slope of this valley through the centre of the last named Township, and near the easterly line of Barnston, to the Province Line, a distance of twenty-eight miles from LennoxviUe. - In Compton, the Railroad passes near the village d Waterville in the north part of the Township, and about two miles west of the centre--the former is a thriving place, having a foundry, grist and. saw mills. The other is an older place, and being in the centre of the Township, THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 145 near the summit between the Coaticooke and Moe's RiVer Vailies, commands a beautifwl and varied prospect. This Township is watered by the Coaticooke and Moe's Kivers, which have a parallel course through it of about three miles apart, affording numerous mill sites in their course. The country between these rivers, is moderately elevated, chiefly settled and well cultivated. The valley of the Coaticooke is broad and beautiful, affordino- a wide extent of alluvial meadow grounds. Two excellent car- riage roads pass from north to south through the Town- ship, one of which is (continued through Barford and Hereford to the Province Line, at the head of the Con- jnecticut. The drives in this Township afford a crpeat variety of fine scenery and are truly delightful. The Itraveller desirous of enjoying these, or Tisiting the Town- [ships of Hatley and Stanstead, «.hould leave the cars at jthe Compton depot. From the latter plate, continuing |by rail, at the distance of about six miles, he reaches the lorlh east part of Barnston. There is here an excellent /ater power, with gri^t and saw mills and a well kept [country inn. A good carriage road leads from this tillage into the heart of the Township, to another pretty Ullage. Barnston is one of the best settled of the ownships, with excellent roads traversing it in every prection. Having now reached the Province Line, the )urist must retrace his steps to the Compton depot, for Ihe purpose of reaching Stanstead and the Magog Lake. icaving this, he first reaches Charleston Village in Ilat- By, distant five miles, passing through a beautiful country ^ E 14.6 ' THE CANADIAN TOURIST. from some elevated points of wind, be ^iU be constrained to pause and admire the rich scene spread out before him; which includes the bold Highlands or the west shore of the beautiful Massawippi Lake, the no^*^-"! "f^" Green Blountain range on the .ve.t shore of e Ma eg Lake, some twenty-five miles distant, whde he p.ctu esque and broken outline of the Orford and Megant.c mountains are seen in the far distance. From Charleston Village, a road of fourteen mdes lead, throughlpart of Barnston direct to Stanstead Plain w.tlnn a mile of the Province Line, passing through a dehghtfu country, affording fine views of the Massaw.pp. Lake anJ adjacent country. The Township of Stanstead was one of the earlies settled in the country, and is the most populous and wealthy ; excellent roads thread it in every direction along which are every where found schools, churches, mills, and well stocked and cultivated farms. It also possesses three very considerable villages, that at tLe Plain being the West ; the next at Eock Island, on the Province Line, possesses an excellent water power and is a place of not. for its commerce and manufactures ; the last, GeorgeviUe, situated on the d ore of the Magog Lake, and embosomed in hills, is one of ..he prettiest imaginable, when viewed from the Lake. It is now the general resting place of the throng of travellers, who annually visit the Lake and neighbourhood, which may justly be termed the Switzer-, land of Canada. This Lake is from twenty-five to thirty miles in length, by a width of two, and runs several mile. I THE canadia: into the adjoining State of " The Mountain Mai I ", has running daily between Newpo and Magog at its outlet. No trip on this Lake, nor makin Head, a mountain five the western shore, at the base of w ble accommodation at the Mou Gcorgeville there is a steam-fe shore, from which conveyance line if stages through Bolton, ] bridge to St. John's, about sh named, are fine Townships con a large agricultural population. Having thus in a cursory ar duced the traveller into th( cultivated of the Eastern Tow sides being still covered with ' observations upon the charact country generally, may not be climate is similar to that of ^ milder than that of Quebec. and entirely free from ague, in< epidemics which prevail in son da, ami. the adjoining States ; a as evidence of the purity of the Cholera has repeatedly raged w the surrounding countries, not ia th« Eastern Townships. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. U7 into the adjoining State of Vermont. A steamboat, " The Mountain Mai I ", has been placed on its waters, running daily between Newport at its head in Vermont, and Magog at its outlet. No tourist should omit taking a trip on this Lake, nor making the ascent of the Owl's Head, a mountain five thousand feet high, on its western bhore, at the base of which he will find comforta- ble accommodation at the Mountain House Hotel. From Georgeville there is a steam-ferry which crosses to Bolton shore, from which conveyance may be had by a tri-weekly line if stages through Bolton, Brome, Dunham and Stan- bridge to St. John's, about sixty miles. The places last named, are fine Townships containing several villages, and a large agricultural population. Having thus in a cursory and imperfect manner intro- duced the traveller into the most settled and best cultivated of the Eastern Townships, (a great portion be- sides being still covered with the primeval forest), a few observations upon the character and capabilities of the country generally, may not be deemed irrticvant. The climate is similar to that of Montreal, and considerably milder than that of Quebec. It is eminently salubrious and entirely free from ague, intermittent fever, and other epidemics which prevail in some parts of Western Cana- da, an4 the adjoining States 5 and it should be mentioned, as evidence of tlie purity of the air, that while the Asiatic Cholera has repeatedly raged with extreme virulence in all the surrounding countries, not a single case has occurred ia the Eastern Townships. .A.* > IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■- IIIIIM |50 '™^= I" m ^ 1^ 2.5 2.2 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■« 6" - ► P)^ ^ 'V// /I/ ^0 ^m %/. '/ Photographic Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTCK.N.Y. i4560 (7T6) 873-4503 ■^ %^ %^ 4,. Q- Ill 148 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. The general appearance of the face of the country w most beautifully picturesque ; the land rises in gentle swells for miles together, the uncleared portions clothed with maple, beech, and birch, and other hard woods, while the Tallies are generally timbered with hard wood and evergreens mixed, or with evergreens alone. In every direction are found plentiful rivulets of the purest and clearest water, which, uniting in the course of a few mues, form large brooks, and thus afford every convenience for the erection of mills, &c., and also afford the angler abundance of sport. Interpersed through most of the Townships are found beautiful Lakes, varying from one mile to thirty, and filled in most cases with delicious fish. The -_iL-_ me lamous otraucru jreaKs, itTt • il 152 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. We now come to tie summit between the Connecticut and the Androscoggin waters, which is passed with a grade of sixteen feet to the mile, and soon cross Dead River which we follow to Berlin Falls, where it empties into the Androscoggin. The Line itself, for most of the distance between Northumberland and Berlin Falls is through the forest, but there are farms all the way within a short distance of the liailway, and carriage roads running parallel with its course. The only station in this distance is at West Milan, which also accommodates Dummer Bridge, a little hamlet a mile below the station. Berlin Falls village is at the head of Dead Biver, just at the top of the Falls. Situated in the midst of the wildest scenery, offering the greatest inducements to sportsmen and lovers of the beautiful, and possessing a comfortable and convenient hotel, it has already become a favorite place of resort. Great quantities of lumber for the Portland market is annually manufactured at this point, and at the mills on the Androscoggin, a short distance above. Leaving Berlin Falls, the line descends five miles by a gradient of forty-five feet per mile to the vaJley of Moose River, which empties into the Androscoggin from the South West. This portion of the route affords several magnificent views of the principal peaks of the White Mountains. Crossing Moose River, near the mouth of which is a large hotel, we reach the White Mountain station house in Gorham, delightfully situated on the delta, between the Androscoggin and Feabody River. T. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 153 n the Connecticut is passed with a soon cross Dead where it empties f, for most of the I Berlin Falls is Ul the way within d carriage roads nly station in this 30 accommodates jelow the station. Dead River, just the midst of the i inducements to and possessing a i already become ities of lumber for ;ured at this point, , a short distance jnds five miles by to the vaJley of indroscoggin from lUte affords several ks of the White lear the mouth of White Mountain situated on the [jabodv River. Gorhani station house is five miles from Slielburne, ninety-one from Porthmd, and two hundred and five from Boston. Before reaching it, the track crosses Peabody p^iver — runs along the valley of the Androscoggin and Peahody Pwivers — and gives a good view of many small hill tops. The hotel itself is the chief object of interest here, and one which is like to attract the more immediate attention of the traveller. It is in full view on the right hand side, and very unlikely to be mistaken or overlooked. This house is a three story edifice, erected by the Atlantic and St. Lawrence Railroad Company. It stands in the valley of the Androscoggin and Peabody Rivers — ih a clearing of betv/een two and three hundred acres. The scenery on all sides is closed up by mountains. Those in front are un-naraed : the long ridge in its rear is khown as Mt. Hayes. The building is one hundred feet front and fifty fett wide, with an ell of equal height one hundred feet long. Piazzas embrace three sides of it. It has a dining room, eighty-five feet long by thirty feet broad — drawing rooms , parlors, reading and smoking room, bathing rooms, &;c. — in all one hundred and sixty-five rooms and is capable of accommodating two hundred and fifty guests. The sleep- ing rooms are carpeted and furnished, provided with stoves and ventilators. It is a most thoroughly built edifice and admirably adapted to the purpose for which it was built and is used. The White Mountains are not visible from the hotel, although it is but ten miles distant from the summit of Mount Washington. Five minutes walk, £ 3 gfff'*!''*^''*** "* 154 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. however, in almost any direction bring them into view. In order to visit them, a ride becomes necessary to Bellows' a| Farm : and a most interesting ride it is. The distance is §3veD miles — over a good and hard road in the valley of Peabody River. Carriages leave the Gorham House daily for this place, and private c\rriages, which are preferable, can be obtained. Immediately after crossing the river from the Hotel, the road plunges into the shadow of hill-tops that block out all objects beyond them. Only at intervals, for the first two miles, can any sigbt be obtained of the loftier peaks that are in advance. But the drive is magnificent even here. Old trees ski. t the road- side and hang over it— partially concealing, partially revealing the beautiful waters of the river that runs side , by side witk the road. About hail way between the '^ hotel and Bellows' Farm is r. deserted house in the midst of a clearing — where, in past time, a man, more bold than wise, tried to support himself, and failed. There is also a venerable saw-mill near by : but the dam has been swept away, and the saw hangs idly in its frame. Aside from these, and an occasional rabbit that may hop across the road, or partridge flying frora^ intrusion, there are no signs of life, present or past, on the road we travel. The Glen House at Bellows' Farm stands on a plain of about one hundred acres in the valley of Peabody River. The mountains are directly in front, nothing intervening to obscure, in any degree, their giant forms. On the ex- treme left is Mount Washington. On both wings of the I i-^i.:^. »...^w%>fc^ nica f rip fi>r\c nf inniimprabt'* Ip'sspr plpvat- THE CANADIAN TOURIST. Ih5 tions, so confuseil ami crowded together as to render their description impossible. Behind the house is a long, irre- gular rise, called " Carter Mountain." There is not, pro- bably, any spot, on either the eastern or western sides, where a finer view is obtained of the great peaks than from here : and it must, from this circumstance alone, soon be- come a very important spot for mountain travel. The White Mountains. Those vrho are desirous of ascending the Mountains, having driven to the Glen House, wdl there find a very choice selection of ponies and saddle-horses ready for the expedition and experienced guides to accompany them. For a description of the ascent, we avail ourselves of the lively pen of the gentleman to whom we are indebted for a description of the Saguenay. " After breakfast, the bracing morning air putting us in high spirits, the party who huve made up their minds to ascend the mountain, are gathered in groups around the piazzas, in close consultation. Six horses, with side saddles, for the ladies are led forth ; and twelve, with high peaked saddles, for the gentlemen, besides a few choicg chargers, which the worthy landloi d reserves for the heavy weights. Most of the horses are French Canadian ponies, sure foot- ed, enduring little animals, of fourteen hands, which make excellent palfreys for scrambling among the rocks. From time to time the party cast glances at the mountain which towers overhead^ for, from this point, you can see the extreme summit, and begin to have some idea of the dif- 156 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. ficulties about to be encountered. The hearts of the ladies do not fail, and of course the gentlemen must follow. Draped in long habits and hoods, armed with strong leather gauntlets, reaching to the elbow, and riding whips, they appear, girt for the feat, and mount their horses boldly. " It is only poor mamma whose heart fails her, who has no longer any charge of her daughter, who has committed her, for the first time, to push her way through the tangled woods and slippery paths of this rugged world. She is determined, however, to do her duty to the last, as far as she can do it, and mounting to the upper piazza, and applying herself to the telescope, follows with anxious eye the merry party as they dash down the sloping lawn towards the river, cross the rustic bridge, enter the shady wood, and disappear from view. " She pauses for a little, and in her impatience turns her telescope towards a precipitous cream coloured ledge, which she knows the party must climb. It is a short spur of the mountain, composed of huge masses of felspar. At its base, a silvery wood of leafless trees, a patch of stunted birch, partially burned, the trunks and branches blanched with winter frosts and summer suns, and much of the shining bark still remaining, produces a most singu- lar effect. Be not impatient, my dear madam. It will only take the party two hours to arrive at this point. The wood through which they are passing is shady and roman- tic, no doubt. Rocks of granite, newly rent asunder, with rich veins of mica, lie scattered all around. Mossy trunks _r i._-^n >^r><» \lr^ r./.M/%oc. tVirk nnfVk /-kiTAm iarlti/>n inoin ivillinrr Oi li"CC3 liiaj ii^ ax^lVSS tsit; uulu, vrrvi 7riti\jzi is3-_i» TTium^ THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 157 little steeds carry them with a bound, llefreshing rills of water trickle down the rocks. The iiorses wind, in single Tile, around the spiral path, often escarped deeply, into the bleep sides of the mountain, for narrow is the road, and sometimes marshy, the trees inclining overhead. Silently, and slowly, they wend their way, all fully occupied in guiding their horses through the crooked path. No clatter of hoofs is heard, only the rustling of withered leaves. No voice except an exclamation when some fair rider has performed a daring feat. For who can willingly talk when oblif^ed to do so at the pitch of his voice 1 Be not uneasy, my dear madam, you see all is going well. Only one thing can happen in these little woodland journeys, and that is not very serious. A horse, in struggling through the swampy ground, may burst his saddle girth. In such a case a lady may, most assuredly, fall into the mud. But as there is usually a gentleman riding in rear, he, rather than such a mishap should occur, jumps off his horse, and dashing into the swamp, receives the lady in his arms, just as she is on the point of touching the ground. He gently bears her to a mossy bank, and the horse is led out to firm ground, the saddle more securely adjusted, and the rider mounts again nothing daunted. And now I may as well describe the most approved method of mounting on horseback. " The lady, without hesitation, having made up her mind to it, places her left foot, the smaller and bie?t chaussee the better, in the right hand of her squire, he stands at the hnrsp.'s hparl. his Ipft hanrl hnlflino- the roins. The ladv. *r *»■ 158 THE C\NADIAN TOURIST. then, her left hand on his shoulder, her right on the saddle, is poised in the air like a bird, and finds herself, without exactly knowing how, securely sealed in her saddle. This, although a long operation in describing, is really the work of a moment ; and is the safest and most effectual way of mounting on horseback, for the horse is kept steady, and cannot advance until the rider is securely seated. " And now, if you apply yourself again to the telescope, you will see the whole cavalcade'emerging from the leafy greenwood, and entering the leafless silvery wood. The horses, no longer in single file, have room to canter in pairs. And now, among the foremost, you may observe a dappled gray, draggled with mud, on which is a lady ^aily chatting to a cavalier. That must be your daughter. Her horse, it is, who has been in the mire ; and that is the very gentleman who kindly bore her to the mossy bank : you must return him thanks for his great attentiou. " Poor mamma drops her telescope, a tear of reproach glistens in her eye ; I have mistaken the phial, and been pouring the waters of bitterness into the wounded spirit, instead of the balm of consolation. For the first time she perceives the maternal sceptre gliding from her gentle hand, and it is hard to bear. And now, finding ourselves very much out of place in this situation on the upper piaz- za, let us fly across and see how the party are occupied at the foot of the precipice. " The gentleman have alighted to breathe their horses. They have loosened their saddle girths ; are fumbling with their cigar cases ; and stroll about, viewing, with wonder, THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 159 ht on the saddle, herself, without Br saddle. This, really the work effectual way of cept steady, and seated. to the telescope, g from the leafy ry wood. The om to canter in )u nfiay observe which is a lady e your daughter. ; and that is the the mossy bank : attentiou. tear of reproach phial, and been wounded spirit, the first time she from her gentle finding ourselves n the upper piaz- rty are occupied ithe their horses, ire fumbling with ng, with wonder, the singular leafless silvery wood, which covers the plateau on which they stand. An inaccessible gulf is on one side ; an apparently insurmountable precipice on the other. Where is the path] While ruminating and puffmg, we are surprized to see the ladies charge at the precipice as if riding a steeple chase. The mountain air has put them in high spirits, and they seem to fear no danger. The horses scale the cliff as if climbing up a zigzag flight of stairs. You see tl^ern pass overhead, bearing their ligV^t burthens, and, as they successively reach the i^ummit, their outline appears against the sky. Your horses, gentlemen, cannot carry you up this ledge of rock. You must allow them to climb with empty saddles. You must follow on foot, as best you can ; the heavy men stopping frequently to get breath, as they toil laboriously up the long ascent, pretending that they merely loiter to enjoy the view. *> At last, arrived at the top of the ledge, above the region of trees and grass, there being nothing but masses of shivered rocks, you fancy yourself rear the summit. But all high mountains are deceptive in this respect, for, as you pass on, crest after crest appears to view, and you think the labour of guiding your horse interminable. The animal begins to utter hollow groans, as only the unwilling horse can do, when urged to jog along where footing is hard to find. At last, however, you see the very last cone, rough with fragments of huge rocks ; either, they have been showered down from heaven, or the outer crust of the mountain is shivered to shreds by the action of the frost. Ino water-worn boulders are here, all looks fresh, ■L 160 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. with ragged edges, newly broken. And here let us pause a while to learn from the guide a mclanciioly tate. "There is a rude house, built of rock, on the summit of the mountain. I had to remain for shelter all night, the evening being too tempestuous and cloudy to descend. Next morning we went out at day break to see what damage the storm had done. We were astonisht>d to see a man struggling towards us, frantic with despair- He could not speak, he could hardly walk, benumbed with cold and grief. He led us a little way down the hill, where you see that cairn of stones. Here, we found, as within a tomb, two young girls lying. One, quite cold and dead, and stiff, the other nearly so. It appe- rs, that the evening before, a gentleman and two ladies h left the glen house after dinner, intending to walk to the lup of the mountain, to remain all night, for the p:irpose of seeing the rising sun,— too great r.n undertaking at any time, but especially so without a guide, and nigl.t approaching. Enthusiasm gave them strength, and enabled them to climb up the ledge. That was too much for one, the youngest. Her strength began to f\iil. Tt was too late to retrace their steps. They cannot stop here, they must proceed. Still two nnles of rugged ascent. Storm and clouds came on ; darkness, and driving sleet. The track no longer seen. Drenchet? to the skin, they toiled their vveary way in an exhausted state over a trackless waste of loose rocks. How they dragged themselves along, sinking with weakness ? How they reached within a short distance of the top ; where relief and shelter might have - , J ' " ^,- '' THE CANADIAN TOUMST. 161 been found, and without knowing that help was so near 1 How they h\y down in despair under tbis heap of stones, and how they passed the night 1 it is not to be told. Mis- ery and fear had deprived thena of their senses. We may throw a veil over it. A ragged shoe was found, a glove, a torn handkerchief covered with blood, wound round a wounded foot ; dumb witnesses of the cruel agony of that ni<'ht, as well to the victim, as to the survivors. '* At length we arrive at the very summit, and seat ourselves in a little amphitheatre of rude pillars. Having ascended from the east, we wish to hive a view towards the west. We therefore cast our eyes into the adjacent valley. Far below us, stretches a long spur of the moun- tain, running about eight miles towards the west, with a height of four thousand feet, and a deep vaUey on either side. And now we hear a solemn, psalmlike dirge ; the'hum of many voices, rising from beneath. It reminds us of the ancient Covenanters performing their worship in the depth of the hills, far out of the reach of their persecutors. The music is slow and solemn, but it is not the chant of the Covenanter, it is an anthem of the English Church com- mencing — ! all ye works of the Lord Bless ye the Lord Praise and magnify his name for ever. ! ye mountains and hills Bless ye the Lord Praise and magnify his name for ever. Most appropriate and touching in such a scene. And .V 162 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. now well ;ard,leadin«tlie choir 6f e Kent bugle is distinctly ned voices, for all join in the simple and sublime chaunt. << We now perceive, winding around a bare promontory, and creeping along the crest of a cliff, a line of thirty horses, which, at this immense distance, appear like insects on a mole-hill,— near and more near they approach, one by one, like pilgrims, threading their way ; sometimes riding on the summit of the hills ; sometimes creeping along the face of the precipice. At length they arrive at a lonely tarn, called the lake of the cloud, over which hangs a perpetual mist. Here they halt a while, walking their horses into the water to quench their thirst and refresh their limbs, for now they are near to the crest of mountain, at which they are preparing to make a vigorous- dash. This pan of the ascent is remarkably steep and rugged, much more so than the route by which we ascended, and we lose sight of the party altogether, until their horses are again seen, after the space of an hour, tottering along, one after another, on the extreme summit. And now, a party of some forty, all strangers to each other, have met together, to dine on the top of the mountain. ''" We are hungry enough, and may therefore enter the hotel. But where is it 1 We see nothing like a house ; can it be this heap of stones, piled rudely together, ai^d which I really had taken for the extreme mountain top 1 It must be so, for here is a door ; and you observe that the roof, and in fact the whole house, is moored across and across with heavy ciiauis, lasiuucu lu »u« X.W5. .,-.4-,- r. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 1^3 adin2"tlie choir of niple and sublime . bare promontory, a; a line of thirty appear like insects f approach, one by sometimes riding creeping along the ' arrive at a lonely rer which hangs a bile, walking their thirst and refresh 5 crest of mountain, e a vigorous 'dash. steep and rugged, 1 we ascended, and ntil their horses are tottering along, one And now, a party 1 other, have met luntain. therefore enter the )thing like a house ; udely together, idd reme mountain top 1 id you observe that s moored across and imbedded in solid rock. You enter, and the^inside is in keeping with what you have already seen. Bare walls of rough granite, the interstices filled with smaller stones,and the crevices of these again filled with gravel and moss, for where can clay or earth be found here for such a purpose. " All this is very characteristic, very appropriate, and in very good taste ; and we should be sorry to see any alter- ation made, further, than to enlarge the accommodation if necessary. It is like the Ark, stranded on the top of Mount Ararat. The windows look like portholes, and through them you have a peep at the surrounding country, like to a picture set in a rough frame. If further orna- Uient is required, why not have a few rough granite pilas- ters, rich and sparkling with brilliant mica, ornamented lustrous min'^'-als, and curious shells, and the mosses which grow so profusely in the adjoining valleys. And'should you require further ornament, why not have horns of the moose, the red-deer, the skins of bears, otters, and wolves, and other trophies of the chase, which tell the his- tory of the surrounding neighbourhood'? But, to hear of a wooden hotel, preparing to be erected, with gay piazzas, or verandas supported on Ionic pillars, all painted white, and with green Venetian blinds ; bowling , alleys, and billiard rooms ; all very suitable and picturesque in the valley, but most inappropriate here. We trust the time is distant when such innovations may be projected, and if attempted, that the tempests and lightning, which reign here in triumph, may hurl them from their foundation, as the walls of Jerusalem were overturned by earthquakes. !• 164 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. "And now, having enjoyed an excellent dinner, we prepare for our descent, and I am greatly tempted to join that party with the Kent bugle, who turn to the west. There is a nice hotel there, full of good company, and it is only ten miles distant. And here we can further explore the rough country, and admire the variety of hill and valley. *< We commence, with great caution, the descent from the summit, allowing the horses to find their own way down the headlong path. We have a pleasant ride along the crest of the mountain spur, where we can occasionally canter, the ground being comparatively smooth, and beyond the range of wood or tangled shrubs. We sometimes start a flock of grey plover, sometimes meet a solitary bee, a buiterfly, a few stalks of thin grass, and the slender harebell, hanging on its wiry stalks, and on our path we meet with nothing else. To be sure, if we look below into the deep valleys, from the f\ice of the precipice along which we are creeping, we see them rich with vegetation, thick with wood, which has not yet felt the stroke of the axe, for so far inaccessible to the industry of man. Nothing but wild animals inhabit here, the bear, the wolf, and the panther. No cottage, nor log-hut, nor domestic animal is seen on any side, nor hum of patient industry. At last we arrive at the extremity, where the mountain ends in a peak jutting abruptly into the plain be- low. Our guide takes his horn and plays merrily *' the Huntsman's Chorus." We have come again on the region of woods ; we plunge into them aiid descend by a steep arduous path, for a distance of three miles. THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 165 " The wood meeting overhead, we see nothing but our own cavalcade, and at last, suddenly, and unexpectedly, debouche into a lovely lawn, on the opposite side of which appears a handsome and cheerful looking hotel, the balcony fdled with company, looking out curiously for our party, who straggling along, one by one, seem completely worn out with the day's exploit, and ready for supper and a sound sleep." And now, gentle reader, our wanderings together are closed. Since we doffed our cap to you at Niagara, and bade you welcome to Canada, we have shown you much of our fair !and— we have travelled by the steam-horse and the steam-ship, the proud trophies of modern science, and we have not feared to invite you to trust yourselves with the red man in his frail canoe. We have seen the cities and the wigwams, the past and the jiresent of the land. We have seen the mighty St. Lawrence from her prodi- gious birth amid the thunders of Niagara, till lost in the still mightier ocean. We have seen much that is lovely, much that is wild, we have seen nature in all her moods, and we trust that our journey has neither been devoid of pleasure or profit. Here, at the foot of the greatest moun- tains of North America, we wish you a kind farewell. \ ' i iBWiN I mm f @)f ®% kf if E 9 (F£t02«£ ISrOTl/CA-KT'S,) 147 GREAT ST. JAMBS STREET, (opposite THl OTTAWA HOTIL,) MONTREAL. 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