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 ■b'_.3 li.:bt MO'-' >.'•*■•■' 
 (716) 482 - 0300 - Phon. 
 
OVER THE OLD ROUTE INTO EGYPT 
 
 M 
 
GOINC; DOWN 
 
 I- k O M 
 
 J E R U S A L E M 
 
 Till. .\.\ k U.\TI VI-; (il- A 
 
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 The Way ok the Sea: A Gillcctiim of Short Siurics. 
 Dr. Grenkeli.'s Parish: A Trait. 
 
 Copyright, 1909, by IIaki-er & Hkutmers. 
 F'ubliihcd October, 1909 
 
TO 
 THAT CONSTANT FRIFNn 
 
 MARCELLUS MILLS GF^A> 
 THIS BOOK IS MOST 
 HEARTILY DEDICATED 
 
CONT i:\TS 
 
 I llll- MMI. OF Till-: CullUI.BR .... 
 
 M CiiMERMNT, THE World in tiiis Bli'e Si 
 
 III A HfioKsELi.ER OK F)AM\srr> . 
 
 I\' Is C^AMP AT HlvERSIIKnA 
 
 \' .\ Wayside Minstrki 
 
 \ I Tears i.\ the .\k;ht 
 
 \ll (loisT. East and West 
 
 VIII .\ Plea on the Bol'ndakv Lim; 
 
 IX Till-; RiNAWAV Bride 
 
 X. Till-; DksKRI l<n\|) 
 
 XI The {'AMEi.-TKAUiii 
 
 XII TllK DeVUE ok .\llKl LI.All 
 
 .MM TiiK Tai.e ok the .Xeedle an 
 
 .\IV. Cami.i I'lK Camel .... 
 
 XV Tiiic iJiM oi Mkn- . . , 
 
 .X\'l 'riiK ToMn 1)1 iiii; Will IK .\^- 
 
 X\'!l TllHMl r,ll Till., SaI.T S.iAMP 
 
 will A SiiKiK oi i;r Till . . . 
 
 XI \ TllH CuNTEN 11:11 M\\. 
 
 XX The Canovn wn the .Angel 
 
 \X1 Till-; (\\\()i \ AM) Till' .\\'i;i:i, 
 
 X X 1 1 .\ r ill). Well of the Slavi; 
 XX I II Tn Mi v.k Mr:i)ori\ ... 
 .XXI\' ll\!i Wii 01 Tin; LiuiANi'N llii.i.s 
 X.X\' A PisLki I)i. ii;( I ivE 
 
 Thread 
 
 (( \iii:: 
 
 irirl) 
 
 FAnR 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 IS 
 
 2 I 
 27 
 ?,1 
 
 !7 
 
 ■\.\ 
 ''» 
 
 (iS 
 
 - t 
 I - 
 
 7 5 
 Si 
 
 «S 
 
 1)2 
 101 
 \0U 
 I 14 
 I J I 
 I 2(> 
 
C().\T i: NTS 
 
 XXVl 
 X.Wll 
 X X \- 1 1 1 
 X X I X 
 XXX 
 XXXI 
 XXXI 1 
 X X X I i 1 
 XXXI\' 
 XX X\' 
 X X X \' I , 
 
 Tin: Mac. I (A L Mak ii 
 
 A Wdu-liKcoNi; I'oi;r 
 
 Tin; IJii.iGii.vT ^'(>^ \i; Darwish m- .\l Bi'sra 
 Till-: L'l.i.s \VKiri:K cn Ti.iii.kav 
 
 in; MnivT oi- i iii; 
 
 CONTENTKII Ma\ 
 
 Tin: Tamki. wnii tiih (iI.ass 
 'I'm; l!c>\i;-^r Tkai)i;k m X h.i 
 ( )\ Tin-; Kc) Ml io Ka\ i ara 
 
 I-:vi 
 
 I \- 1 ; T i< 
 
 iji-ui.r.> 
 
 A I'kiM 1. IN Mi;>i)i'()rAMi.j 
 A Hi;ii'MiN j\ ("i sTniiY 
 
 XXX\II. I)i 
 
 XXX\11 
 XXXIX 
 
 i-:> 
 
 ■,i.i>ii 
 
 li;i.ii 
 
 L"i' 
 
 Kai iini (iui;: 
 
 "42 
 
 I(,4 
 
 177 
 
 1S2 
 186 
 193 
 197 
 
 308 
 
< 
 
 i 
 
 I L L U S T R A T I ( ) X S 
 
 OVER THE OLD ROl'TE INTO EOYI'T f ron(»5p». C 
 
 IN THE MARKET-PLACE pMing r 1 <S 
 
 IN THE COFFEE-HOVSE RACHII) HAD SAT WITH IHKKE 
 
 YOUTHS " 3^' 
 
 WE WKRE 1-KESENTLY GONE FROM THAT I'EACEFfL 
 
 ENfAMl'Mi;NT " 3^ 
 
 EI. ARISll. THl-: I1AI.I-\VAY CITY OF THE CARAVAN 
 
 ROVTE " 50 
 
 THE CAMEL-TRAIIKR LEANED AGAIN INTO THE CANDLE- 
 LIGHT " ''4 
 
 A CHRISTIAN SYMBOL M A U\' P. I.I.orSL V OCT "1- PLACE " 76 
 WE HAD COME BY A DICVIOl'S WAY TO Till". li'.Ml ol 
 
 THE I'OET " I 10 
 
 MURA IIALIM. THE BLIND MISKIAN " II4 
 
 THE SHOI> OF THE FEZ-I'RESSER " I I >! 
 
 A RAGGED BEDOUIN MI.LING His C.IRHIF- AT THE WELL 124 
 
 THE CRAVE BEDOUIN D!I'ARTI;D M'' 
 
 AHMED ASED-ULLAH. I HE WKITLK ol SCROLLS . " I 52 
 
 SPECIMEN OF WRiTINC, OF THE PERSIAN SCHOOL " I S'l 
 
 WE MADE OUR (AMP HV Till-: Wi;Ll " 1 ''2 
 
 THE SHOP OF A TRADER ... " i;^ 
 
 WE SAT DOWN IN THE SA.ND AROUND THE FIRE . . " .'C' 
 
GOING DOWX FROM JERUSALEM 
 
GOINC; DOWN FROM 
 
 J 1':rusalkm 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 TliE sour. OF THE COIiHI.HR 
 
 W\: I'litcri'.'! Jornsak'in from the north— he whom 
 thry ealuMi the younojiT A-'Z/iKi'tz/a and I -having 
 mldni down from Damasctis with a small caravan, 
 camjiin.i^r l,y the way; ami a mrau l.laek time it was, 
 this l;!st ni.uht of our ridin.ij;, and late of it, too — cold 
 and wind-swept from the northwest, and Mack dark 
 and wet with a ])eltin,ij; rain of that sour winter. I 
 recall no li^lits of the city, no warm in\itation from 
 atar to \k- housed, no p;issen,:;ers at)road on the roads, 
 hut rmu'mber thr wind and thick night, the clatter 
 of hoofs, the glum silence of thos" servants and com- 
 panions, ;i loose rein and the s] ash ami mud and 
 weariness of late ri<ling. Presently, however, we 
 were Will lirstowed in a hostelry by the Jaffa Gate, 
 and when the muleteers Ikh' fi'tehed the bags from 
 the dripping pack animals below, w. extracted the 
 caipets and tapestries of Damascus, with which we 
 
G I \ G D O W X FROM J E R U S A L E M 
 
 ti'avc'lled, liavinj^ learned the wisdom df it; and in 
 tliis simple way we transfornieil the cold elunnljevintd 
 a warm anil familiar place, i^rali'ful Id the eye and 
 feet and sijirit, like Ivime. With a histy tirr huzzinij: 
 in the little j)ortvlain stdx'e, and with the mud and 
 sweat of travel washed otf, and with a sup])er <if 
 savory things steamincj on tlie talilc, and with the 
 beloved Blue Ru;^ and the Red Bokhara fjlowinij 
 in the lamplij^ht, and witli Abdush, that admirable 
 dragoman! already tricked out in the raiment of the 
 town, now grinning no nidre a jiridc in liis achiew- 
 meiit u]ion our ])oor travtdling than a vain interest 
 in his bright era\at and the angle of his mustache — • 
 this withal, wi.- limked back ujxui the rainy jfuirnev 
 with satisfaction, recollecting it all in vast jollity, 
 and thence turned with expanding enthusiasm to 
 the prospect of simn.ier riding southward beyond 
 Beershcba and (Afr the plains and sandy desert into 
 Egypt by the ancient cara\an route. 
 
 Thereupon we ])lanned this new journey; and in 
 the sunshine of the way (said we\ we should find 
 new delights of travel, and ease in its ist>lation frm 
 a swarming and tlistracting world. 
 
 To Hebron and to Beersheba, among the pastoral 
 Beilouins to El Arish on the shore of the sea, an<l 
 thence many san'ly <l;iys to the Suez Canal at 
 Kantara: a ])lacid and companionalde journey, 
 riding thus in the grateful Januarv weather. We 
 were presently on the wa)' toward these places. 1 
 
r hi: 
 
 )r I, (> 
 
 ti i: CO B n I, i: r 
 
 rcrnL'iiibc: t^''; rosy nidrniiv^ air, thr siinli;-;ht, thr Miu' 
 (Hslanri'S ami j^rct'iiiiv^ tlcl'is of our flrpartiin.' from 
 ItTUsalem — llu' oliw-iri't'S anil stony barrens, the 
 Mithc j)attfr of hoofs, llic bells of tlu- ba;4,iL;a,!L;e nuiirs, 
 .:]\'] (lust of our small compan}- on tlu' whili.' road 
 Ih \-()nil, tlu' ilwinillini; lowi-rs and walls of the sacred 
 hills. I neall, to(j, the e.xhilarati .i of the hour; 
 ])r()cecdin,^ no more from an errand into tlie open, in 
 expectation of mild adventure, than issuing upon the 
 ilisappcarance of all pitiable shrines and the spectacle 
 of an ignorant adoration which had dei)ressed our 
 spirits. 
 
 We conceived the aujiurii's fa\'orable to a happy 
 pro^re^s in stranije jilaees; and it pleased us in this 
 way to makedielieve — a i,Ma\c pp'tinee that omens, 
 as once they had been, still wvrv \iiriic with meaning 
 to such as took the old road into Ei^ypt. In a field 
 beyond Bethlehem a newdnim kid la\' at the l\'et 
 of a small shepherd of those hills, whereby the 
 wondi'r of our followers was excited to an amazing 
 garrulity, for no birth had ever before occurred at 
 their passing; aiic a masterless dog of the city had 
 a.ttached herself to our adventure, which was a 
 lia])])y omen (they said), though, indeed, it presi'ntly 
 appeared that she was but a friend (>*! the white 
 mule, ;ind had come, not to ji^n fortunes with us, 
 but in the regular exercise of her devotion, 
 
 At the Jaffa Gate a ragged Moslem graybeard, 
 cit'llieted, but held in holy regard by the jiious because 
 of an illumination exceeding wisdom, had lifted his 
 
(iU I so DOW N 1- ROM [ i: K fs.\ [. \] \\ 
 
 hands and niuttcrrd a vacant iM^iT'dictKni, mcludiiiL,' 
 us with all ihv thron^^'in.i,' w.nid ; [last tiic !iH,t ,,f the 
 liili a liand of Russian i)il.i:,'ritns, bnWw^ toward thr 
 Kate of llK'ir holy city, -axe us for nur licj,'L,'ar]y 
 .Urcct inn;— worn souls!— an al.undaiil hlcssin.L;, hcst- 
 in.ir us mit(htily in this wayside cxciian.^c; In that 
 calls Inm-clf John tlic Baptist ha\in- co,nc hul 
 ycstcrda\ fmni lon.L,^ wandcrini; in the wilderness 
 beyond Jordan— hairy, j^'aunt, haredi-^'^ed, antl in 
 raj;:s— conveyed the Divine sanction from the shade 
 
 ot an olixT-tn^e hy the way, whence, when the smi 
 was hi-h (they said), he would into ihe city, uplifted 
 
 and elo(juent, to proclaim his niessa-e to a lieedless 
 
 generatitjii. 
 
 We nnk' ont in ,L,'reat humor with the time and 
 
 undcrtakin.L,', Messed ],y intl.ld an<l i)il-rim, hermit 
 
 and /('//a//, dusty fraxelhrs afoot and them that bi- 
 
 strode fine beasts; and this was a curious and 
 
 heartening departure. 
 
 That night we lay at Hebron. 
 
 Here is a city of gentle situation, lying in a sunlit 
 valley; a grapedand, fertile and well watered through 
 these ages since the children of Israel first beheld It. 
 It is a place of e\il faith and monstrous reputation; 
 the zeal of twenty thousand Mohammedans, grown 
 restless, finds occasional \-ent in thi> murder of 
 some wretched Jew or wandering native Christian, 
 and is an al)iding mt'iiace to all lra\ellers not of 
 Islam. 
 
^ 
 
 T H i: so L'L 1- 1 !i ;: coh i^ i, i: r 
 
 "M'li," tile missionary shoulcvj fp.ni his threshold, 
 "iiM tnit where ihere is a ruol! C,<n\ Mess yoii all!" 
 with L'lnwiiirr heartiness; "conie m. Made ihi-: 
 house niyscltV he ajHil-.-i/A-d, with a cluukle, "and 
 it i-^n'l liiiished Hut iie-,rr mind that; eonu' ri'^lil 
 "H in her.' and he at lionie. ^'..n ,;;v at home," er"ied 
 lie, and immediately -,ve <,ver hi^ kiteheii to our 
 I'ook, uhieh made us -nests, indeed, of his com- 
 passion, as we Were ,i;lad to he. 
 
 He was a sj,are, ea,L;er yoim.i,' man, all allash and 
 twinklin.i,' with \ital love of foi;-, and so .abstracted 
 with us and uneasy, heeause of a hahit of [.re- 
 oeeupation-thou.i^'h he rattled on with much charm 
 and intelliLjence— that I fancied he w.as torever 
 devising cunning schemes to lure tlu^ people to his 
 laith. Here dwelt he, then, in discomfort and grave 
 isolation, in much real peril in p<.\-erty, douhtless, 
 without hope of any gain— hut was ingenuously 
 proud of his nployment. 
 
 "I tell you, men," he declared, in conviction so 
 lively that I jumpul and was amazed in the presence 
 
 07CH reward 
 
 of it. "thi,^ work is its 
 
 There had been a vast e.\j)enditure of reasonal.le 
 love here— <if moiu'y little enough, I think, so 
 mean a sum that it m, ., 'ked the wealth, oi the 
 ehurehes^l.ut of the strength of one wi.se man its 
 all: and I wondered conceming its xisihle return: not 
 in total attendance, neither in <lay-school jirogrcss 
 and heha\ ior, hui in the tale of captives taken from 
 the hosts of Islam, by which the knignt himself must 
 
 ': 
 
('.It 
 
 \ (, 
 
 i)() W \ I' ROM J !•: K I s.\ I. i; .M 
 
 iiiv'.i.-^ui'i' Ins (luii victnry. This \v;is im im an m- 
 triitioii ((I iiKikr (lixisiir .iinl (lixuliu-l < >\ smuIs .md 
 c'.ish, wliicli ni;iy nut I'V itny L^i-acmns heart \iv ilimr, 
 iMT was It a naiTiiw and ( \niral curiosity, nt-'i^lcetin^ 
 tln' nltiinatr nturn, l>nt a siinjilr tra\clKT's wniidiT 
 c'din'irnin;^' llu- inmirdiatr I'lt'ci-t uf a rarr conjunc- 
 ti'iu (jf i^rcat i)ur[)i)S(' with an ini]ici\ I'lic viY\- 
 cieiicy and a pcrsonaUty so ciij^aj^'ini; that ihr 
 liusincss <«t [)rosclytini,^ was here indul,m'd aliovc 
 the law. 
 
 "One souh" the man an^werei], tVanklv'. 
 
 Thert' was no si^h, no ec ini[ ilamt or hopelessness; 
 there was a liriet expectation of Manie, perhaps, 
 to arise fnnii lay misunderstandin,L;, hut no readiness 
 to resent it, as tlie missionary regarded nie stead- 
 fastly. 
 
 "(Jne soul ?" I echoed. 
 
 "The Lord," said he, hrushing' the hair from his 
 brow, "has given us — just one soul!" 
 
 I had not thought that in all Ilelin_>n one man had 
 dared declare himself apostate; hut the missionary 
 — percei\ing no triumph — was now fallen into a 
 wistfid muse, emt littered, no doubt, by .some un- 
 just sc^lf-accusation. 
 
 "I think." he added, difFuk'ntly, looking uj), 
 "that it is a genuine eon\ersifjn : 1 think it is. There 
 is a blood tend against the man, and — he has laid 
 off his WL'apons." 
 
 The coiwert (thought we) would soon be num- 
 bered with the martyrs! 
 
 6 
 
TH !■: so u I, () I' tin; ( o h u \.i: r 
 
 It was the Sahl.;ith; tlir sun was <j,i<nr ddun, ]r:iv- 
 in.L; thf (jlivc •j^v<>\v<. aixl vnnyanl:, m the jmrplr 
 sliadfiu- (if the lulls. Under cover of the dusk, it 
 SLrnu'i], many mm would cnmo to (-\( lun.i; scT\ifc, 
 "By the bai-k duor," thr niissionarx' whispered, 
 "they sti'al in, these p(i.)r pt nplr on Uie (juict, 
 you understand? dressed in ra.i;s, in dis<,,'uise, atraid 
 to be known. They eome; c,h vt s they (ro/e, 
 men!" There was a ((.n-re-alion of two in the hare 
 little service-room: the convert, a weak-eyed shoe- 
 maker, and his ajiprentiee. The hoy was restless, 
 horeil, timid, and tiea-hitten: the man snu^.s^'lcd to 
 his new faith; he was ecstatically hapj)y. Hut yet 
 he liviHl in expectation <A death: as how should he 
 not?— a damni'd and cutiast apostate, the ohiect 
 of a hlood feud, who in ohedience to the new teach- 
 ing' (and of his owi notion) had juit off his weapons 
 and was become defenceless a.^ainst his l)Ir)od 
 enemy and the hatred of his city. I remember him 
 as a stalwart fellow, able, in fair fi-ht, to hold his 
 life aj^ainst odds. 
 
 It was dark, and the street was silent and empty, 
 when the a])ostate slunk away. Came then the 
 missionary to us, despoTidently 
 
 "Men," he be^^an at once, but with distaste, "the 
 Lord wished to humble us." 
 
 But why? 
 
 "I— I — hpastid," he stammered, bitterly; "and 
 only two came." 
 
 We had forc:otten the [jromise of nuniliers, 
 
 7 
 
G I .\ I. I) W \ i- K (') M I !•: R U S A I, i; M 
 
 "And, men," thr ■^nm] iii,i:i conclucicd, sp. akiiii,' 
 from the very diisl oi' humilialiuii, "1 — 1 ~ ,ii)i 
 limiiMt'd!" 
 
 Presently. Iinuvxcr, an-! u ith li'ttrr lu .irt, lie t^Id 
 us of simdr\- hcalin,'^ - h\- [nayor, and. after that, <>{ a 
 j^raciotis miracle worked in his iKhalf. ■'Il haj)- 
 I)ened, meti." he relatetl, 'on th( ro;i,i fn.in Heer- 
 shcha, at midsummer. It was hot. I ttH y,,ii. 
 men. it u.is hnt / No sij,'n of rain - (h-\- midsummer. 
 \'()u don't e.xpeet clouds at midsummer, do you' — 
 nothin.u short of a mira- le, as it were. eouM ppxhiee 
 them. .\n(l I t-ouldn't stand thi' sun. \o, men; 1 
 just tv/(/,/;;'/.' 1 knew I eouldn't h\ e :,nother d;iy 
 without r< hrf. So I thought I'd tdl the Lord all 
 about It. Just tt II lliiii fr.inkiy, \ oti know, and de- 
 pend uji-^n Ihtn. .\nd I did: just ;^'ot ri-ht down 
 on m\- knn s that ni-lit. nic ti, .and told Him uh;it I 
 thouL;ht. 'Loni.' s;ii,i 1, 1 ,an't stand ii. 1 would 
 if 1 coukl; luit I just (,;;/'/. \'ou'll haei^ to save me 
 — you'll haw to do it, Lord or I'll perisii ri^lit 
 here in the wilderness.' .\nd luxt da\-. men. a 
 little cloud eo\-ered the sun no l.iiji^n'r than a man's 
 hand. A little eloud--at .uidsummer' It didn't 
 move away, remetnl.er: just huni; riL,'ht there, all day 
 between the sim and me. And my life was saved. 
 Now." he demanded, "what do you think of that?" 
 
 That a little ckjud had interwned. 
 
 "I tell you, men," the missitjnary declared, in 
 }).ithctic bewilderment, "I believe the Lord heard 
 me — thai time!" 
 
 8 
 
1 
 
 TH !•: SOUL OF T FI i: (OH HLF. R 
 
 We were Riven (lodsixcl in the oinc -nnc, as we 
 n.dc away, soon after dawn; and wi' k.cp thr man 
 m faith and in affection. lie is a -ood man. a 
 devoted and effieienf man in his prof.ssion, and 
 most tender. 
 
IT 
 
 coxncKXixc Tin-: wnRi.i) ix this iu.uk space 
 
 LVi'E 'if ilial al'ttTiKion we came to Edli D:; 
 / liari\'eli, a vi]la,ij;c nf the BciU)uins who till llu- 
 rifh ]ilaiiis t«r\'iiiii] Hflimn aU'! tluTe ilv.cll in peace 
 aiiil in svilimissidH : buUi ])eace ami siilnnissii)ii be- 
 inir cfMileinplible to Uie war-like tribes of tlie j^reat 
 desert to the east, who successfu'ly resist all author- 
 ity. The i'e(ij)le o; ihe fields are nnieli ojijiressed: 
 the Inirden is of taxatimi; three tlnmsand dollars 
 are yearly extracted from a ]io])ulalion of eight 
 hundred lUen, wonuii, and children, but lease no 
 penn\'worlh of beneht to stilace tlie ravished com- 
 niunity. Wlien the cn)]>s be'gin to s])ring and the 
 tloeks giv'e I'romise. a Turkish assessor ride> from 
 Hebron, and upon every man levies according to the 
 utmost power of that man to pay, so that some let 
 tli-'i'- land lie fallow, anii sonu', at ne\v's of his com- 
 ing, slauginer their animals, rallu'r than sulfer an 
 excessive extortion. The village is itself but a 
 jimible of listless earthen huts, risen on a mound of 
 its own refuse and ruins. Beneath the homes of 
 this time are the forgotten ehanil)ers of the fore- 
 fathers. 
 
Tin. WORLo IX THIS BLUE SPACn 
 
 While tlie fc.nts were risinu ,.„ (he common-a 
 sweep of clean an.] clnse-ernp,v.l green -we came to 
 the guest-rnon,. as all ,,.„„l travellers must, or live 
 il-niannere-i. ano^ranl l^llows in ,l,e reeolKviion of 
 these punetihons folk. Ii.,v was a hos,>Ual.K. 
 reluge for wanderers uf whatso^xer degree, fnv co 
 them, to sleep and pass on, unquestioned, or for 
 tliree days to t.arrN-. guests of the tribe: an admirable 
 an. saving custom of these parts. R wis a dark 
 an<l stagnant inten-.r- a black shadow under the 
 vauited root. I recall, into winch a dusty .sunbeam 
 nitru.lc^d through a high sin ni the w,all-but wis 
 now comfortably aglow at t]t<. eolVec. fire, whe-v two 
 ragged old men. whose turn it was (at the sheik's 
 Ix'hest) to provide the travellers refreshment were 
 nursing the coals, in some ill humor. There was , 
 g<.o<l company squatting ab.ui in expectation <if 
 our commg; and they gave us cs-sala>u 'alnkiuu in no 
 heartening fashion, but led us to (he hi-di seat 
 winch they distinguished for us bv spreadm-^ an" 
 abha taken from the back of a vonn- man " 
 
 Then came the sheik, swagge'ring 'ln„n the sun- 
 I'ght-a glum, imjuitient old man. tattooed on the 
 til) ol his nose, now wry-mouthed .an.l out of sorts 
 u-eanng a blue abba of (jualify, all his garments soft 
 and proudly 11,, wing; but yet he was a man of no 
 account, sa\e here. 
 
 The ceremonial three cups of coffee were served 
 to us in awkward silence. 
 
 •Xow." the sheik demanded, on the heels of 
 
 II 
 
 3 
 
G I X (i D O W N !■ R O -M J E R U S A L E M 
 
 the last gulp, "why have you slighted our hos- 
 liitality '" 
 
 "We ha\e ])itche<l our tents," J. protested, "on 
 your eoiiimon." 
 
 "It is true," lie rejoined; "but you mock us." 
 
 " \\'hat mockery," I asked, angrily, "is there m 
 this?" 
 
 "Yoii ride down to Rgyi)t," he rejilied. "It is a 
 great iournev. Vou will lie here and there by the 
 wa and thev will say t<; you: 'IIow fared you at 
 iCdli Dahariyeli' Did tliey take y(.u in— at Edh 
 Dahariveh' Hid they kill a shee]!— at Edh Da- 
 liariveh?' You will answer: 'Tluy did not kill a 
 sheep at Edh Dahariyih; tiK'y left u^ to sleeji in the 
 open — at Edh Daharix'ch.' No tra\t'llcr," the <hrik 
 boasted, but with, v.hat truth I know not, "hicks 
 entertainnuTit at Ivlh l)ah;iriych. We are abk- to 
 kill a shec]) every day. Had you sciit word of your 
 coming, I would ha\-e had _\ou to my house; but your 
 mules came witliout warning, and your servants 
 bcg;in to pitch your tents. We shall be Iaughe<l at 
 for mean men from I->dh Daliariyeh to Egy])t." 
 
 The man, it seemed, would yet h;ive us conscri])ts 
 of his pride, and house us in his ilea-run dwelling; 
 and in the alarm of this i)rospect 1 tunictl to Aboosh 
 — th;it admirable interpreter and guide. 
 
 " I''phraim," s;iid I, iirmly, "the inan must l)e 
 diverte<l. Ask him if the world is round or ilat." 
 
 The diversion was effected : moreover — a sensati' )n. 
 
 " If the World is flat," was the res])onse, after some 
 
 13 
 
I 
 
 1 
 
 ' how IS tllL' 
 
 lopeiKjs 
 
 THE WORLD 1 \ THIS BLUE SPACE 
 
 heavy pondurin-;, " I am n^ntunt; if it is round, ic is 
 round })y God's wisdoni." 
 
 The nu'U in tlic gufst-rooni softlv apj.laudrd It 
 was a charactmstic thin-: an evasion is with them 
 equal to an answer. They drew nearer nr>w. secnt- 
 mg a diseussion of natural ];hilosoi>hv; and an ex- 
 pectant silence fell. They had for-otten the olfenee 
 a.uainst the hosj)itaIity of their tribe. 
 
 ■'Answer me this," said the sheik: " 
 W()rld supported in this Mue space'" 
 
 " The world," I answered, cimninj^dy 
 upon tlic thrt^ad nf God's wdl." 
 
 It was a sufneient answer: euriositA' d:ired proceed 
 no (urthcr; an inquiry hrynnd \hv eomfortal^K. ox- 
 phniation of God's will would ]„■ imincty. 
 
 Tliere came shuftlin- to thr wm a't evenini,^ a 
 ra,-v,l B,,l,H,i„ u-ith an ;nieirnt -old coin which 
 he had plout,died <.ut of th,. ^^ronnd of that nei^h- 
 l"Thood. This was when the skv was p.] with sun- 
 set li,>:ht and the villa.uv l„,vs were idlv switching 
 the iloc'ks across the co,n,non. \\V w.uld not buv 
 his treasure. h:c.inL' no wish to possess it; hut in.leed 
 '"■ p!e:.de<l until it seenicd we must induJLje hnn. 
 •■I am a i)M,,r man," said he, -with neither flocks 
 'I'"- laniily, ;.nd this g,,],! ,,,i„ j^ ,,„ ^j^,,^. j j^^ ^_^. .^^ 
 ">'' ^vorld. .\o n<-h travellers p;,ss this w:,v; hut 
 yet I must sell my coin, because I pn.pose a jo'urnev 
 atid I must sell it secretly lest the proceeds be taken 
 aw.ay from me. It is mv wish to i>scape into E-vpt 
 bt-tore I am called for service in the army and "sent 
 
 13 
 
 I 
 
(', OIXC. POWX FROM jERUSALl-M 
 
 into the soulli to (lie; and so I will rxcliaiiL^i' my O'in 
 for a coin of equal wri-ht - a nure napoleon." 
 
 The i'.xehan:4e was niana.^ed, with somrlliin.^^ 
 added to drli-hl and suri'iisr the man; and he 
 shuffled away. 
 
 " He is not liku the linoksilkT ui Damascus," said 
 tlie yountfcr khaivaia. 
 
 I iai';^'liei! to rrcall that avaricious graybcard and 
 his mustv storehouse bv thr Oreat Mosque. 
 
Ill 
 
 A HOOKSELLER Ul- DAMASCUS 
 
 Jlli: booksc.IlcT Of Danuuscus. wlinsc- bargaining 
 1 llK' younger /tZ/au',/,., rcmemlKTrd u-is 't 
 vuy old man-c.ray-l,c.ank.i, scrawnv-neJk.d, pal- 
 li<i as an „u-ali,l, marvc.llously thin,' bent at the 
 shouI,U.,.s, but dn.se.I n, a rich, fu,-!ine.l, perfectly 
 tailored ,<,..u-n ot ^^ray elotli. and keen and l.-i-lu oV 
 eye thouK^h most caiculalin.,. and a^■aricious: the 
 e. est son (they said. .,f thnv .generations of book- 
 se crs trom that san.e stall in the ba.ar of the book- 
 
 '''', ^ '' ^^-''^ '" ^'i ""->^Pectedly amiable m,K,d 
 
 it^chjau..!. on the rainy day when the Interprc.e; 
 
 and I ell m wuh Inm by his shop, b.vond whieh. 
 
 hrou,h a httle gate., some glimpse was to be had o 
 
 tiles ghstemngmtlu ain and light ,.[ the open skv 
 
 He would not only sh.nv us the books, but would' 
 
 ^■a wnlMu., happily found we that which we desin.i 
 ^ l>uy And so, ),„, hu-kadaisically. nKutifesting 
 
 to his storehouse, which we must enter hurriedly, as 
 hough spied upon. This was up the steps, a hun 
 th,. nght, an elbowing progress through the tide- 
 's 
 
G O I X G DO W X F RUM J E R U S .\ L E M 
 
 np ut humanil)-, and sonu' yards ui easier advanee- 
 nicnt to a Icnv ^loiic dnur, unlocked with a j^i^'anUc 
 key. Usliered into utUrindst darkness, we were 
 provided wiili tandies, folii to search, and in- 
 continently kit to '.lurselves. 
 
 "Here," dcckired the Interpreter, "is an amazing 
 thine!" 
 
 ■' l?ut why?" I inquire(k 
 i'he man lias kft no servant to spy upon us. 
 We must beware," he added; "there is an object in 
 iliis." 
 
 In this storeliouse— it seemed a \-ast ])kice by tlie 
 little liiL^^ht of one candle — repcjsed the accumulations 
 "f three ^^fenerations of acquisiti\e Ijooksellers (f 
 Damascus, drawn not only from the cities of Syria 
 and I'LL^ypl, Init, as it .snun appeared, fn un Persia ..s 
 well, where books were aneirnl]\- well made. No 
 cry of traflic crmld penetrate tlie ]u'a\y door, it was 
 \ery still witliin, and lifeless, and a.ired, and musty. 
 The lloor was deeji in dust; and ewry book that was 
 touched — e\ery leaf that was slii-re<l — L;a\e off each 
 its little pulf. TJie lli.or was littered, the corners 
 lieaped, the .shelvt'S crowded: many tJiousands (if 
 \ohmies liad liere been east and fnrL,'i itten— ac(iuired 
 and held jxissessed in the .Mdhammedan way. I 
 recall great books, writti'u upm jiarchment bv skil- 
 ful hands, long, k)ng ago, exLjuisitelx- illuminated and 
 bound— a long, ill-kept row of these, so thick with 
 black dust, which had even sifted bietween the leaves, 
 that I tancied they had not been ti inched in a hun- 
 
 i6 
 
A BOOK S !• L L E R O F D A M A S C U S 
 
 dml years. Pivsently I came upon many covits .,f 
 anliciue ionics, i^ol-l-lcated and dwply i.M.Rd and 
 beaulifiul wiUi slender Hourishes-all stripped In.ni 
 the orit^ina! iMu-ks, wliieh had been rebound lor sale. 
 Xc'ar by a eraz> slair— chiUered witJi l„H)ks— wliieh 
 led perilously to the loft, was a eolleeti.m of little vol- 
 umes, in dusty heaps on a hi-h shelf: thin little books. 
 delicately written by hand and as delicately illumina- 
 ted ; some poetry, I recall, and some pious discussions. 
 I fell in love with one fas they sav)— the tints 
 and intcrlaciii!^ lines an.l gildin.^'of tlie litle-paKc, 
 all masterfully accomplished, endurin- to this tiiiij 
 witiiout a faded color or other blemish. 
 ^ "Tliis little book," said the Inti^rprct.T, ].resently. 
 "is a collection of philosophical i)oems. more than 
 one hundre.1 years old, composed (as here is written) 
 by the talented dau.trhter of a certain learned, wise 
 famous, and wealthy prince; but the name of the 
 scribe is omitted." 
 
 "Then," said I. 'diere is a story: The beautiful 
 (laughter of the i)rince, exercising her talent in his 
 'lehght, had these jjoems inscribed by a master, and 
 presente.l them to her father to win Jiis praise." 
 "It may be so," he agreed. 
 
 "But," I ])rotested, "it is indeed so; there is no 
 other copy in ,dl the wide world." 
 
 "That," said he, "is undouhtedlv true." 
 As the Interpreter bent with me over the volume 
 translating, we were interrupted t,y a soft, asthmatic 
 wheeze, and I turned with a start to find the jxallid 
 
 I 
 
('■ 
 
 ()l\(l DoWX FROM J F. R U S A i. i: M 
 
 l"">ks'jlkT at my very shouMcr, liis 1k'.:i1 llirust for- 
 wanl— his scrawny heard, drawn cluvk'^. and avari- 
 cious eyes, lie had rciiir M,ftly to ^p\- upon us, as 
 he haii intended when iiu left us alone; and havin.i,' 
 in this way discovered our real desire, was prepared 
 to exact tlie value of it to the last franc. At once we 
 bargained for tiie Ix.ok. tlir Interpreter gleefully sus- 
 tained the argument, hut was m a state of wralli 
 and perspiration wlu^n at last the money was ])aid 
 down, and had no gcjod word to say f(jr the Look 
 seller in h:nglish. For my bargam (since in D nna-^- 
 cus barL^auiii!,- is a polite at complishtneiU) 1 will say 
 this: tliat next day, when T causally expose<I the 
 bf)ok in an antitjue-shop much freciuental by tourists 
 in the season, the dealer thrust his hand nn.o his 
 money-drawer and cast to the counter, from a liand- 
 fu! <>i gold, tlinr tunes the sum I had paid: Init I 
 would not. l.dse him up. 
 
 I still carried 1 he book in mv hand when we came 
 to the door ot the bookseller's storehouse, but was 
 then all ;il once seized VKjlenllv bv the ;inn, smartly 
 chi<ied, and charged to conceal the volume (the 
 bookseller having first kissed it) until we were well 
 departed from the neighborliood 
 
 " FhiS virtUdiis .Mohammi'dan," the Inteq)reter 
 exi)lained with contempt, "will not sell holy books 
 to Chri.stKins— v.-hen anybody is looking." 
 
 I indulged the old man's scruj):cs by concealing 
 the t)o,)k; ;ind we were then nshercil into the street 
 m the most friendly and innocmt fashion in the world. 
 
 i8 
 
if 
 
 . / 
 
 IN THE MARKETPLACE 
 
 !! 
 
A lioo K M; I, I. i; K ,, I i, \ \i ^ >^( u J. 
 
 "Wlial IS tlic occ.isioii of the man's secrecy?" 
 I asked. 1. resell tly. "Has lie I.ruken the law in this 
 transaction ■"" 
 
 "He has l)iMkril the l.iw, .,|" ciursc," the lnl,T- 
 rreter replied , ■hui tliat is nolhiii.i; in {(mIi Th, 
 tiling' is inipuiLanl only if it he .liseoverol by an 
 enemy more powerfnl than he Not lonj,' a«o in this 
 street Mf , he hunkMllers.- he continued, as. .leparting 
 from that quarter, we pause-! at the entraiuv ,>{ the 
 bazar, "a Mohammedan of upright character and 
 I'lous and honorable life earned a slender livelihood 
 i'y nie.ins ,,( the l.mdin.i,' and sale of hooks of un- 
 impeachable loyally to Mohammed and the wSultan. 
 He was an inolTcnsive i)erson, past middle age. tni- 
 accused of crime, living, doubtless, in ex|.cctati<ni 
 of a peaceful death in this guileful and envious city, 
 breathing no sedition, deahaig for fair profit, reciting 
 the jiravers al ih.e ;ipponited intervals, in every 
 Way obscrvmg tht. tornis of his ndigion and practising 
 the spirit of it. It chanced, however, that he won 
 llie enmity of.-i neighbor, a man of power and WiMJth, 
 who would t.ike Iiis ease on the roof .and ogle the 
 bookseller's >oungcst wife whenever she ajipctred, 
 so that ])resently, .so i)ersistent was the ofTence. she 
 niight newr breathe the air except through the 
 meshes of .1 black veil, not even in the priv'acv of her 
 own roof. From this wicked infatuation, ol'course. 
 resulted the poor booskeller's destruction. It set>in^ 
 that at the same time th.at he was expecting a con- 
 signment of books from Cairo, his eldest son, by 
 
 19 
 
 I ■ ■ 
 
 \v 
 
( ; () I .\ ( i DOWN I" ROM J i: K U S A 1. i: M 
 
 another wife, was aboul in ixlum ti'im America, 
 being in ill health and about to die. Wlien iteaiiic 
 time f<>r the young man and the Ixjoks to arrive at 
 Beirut, the covetous neighbor causeil to be included 
 with the books cerUiin volumes of a violently sedi- 
 tious teaching, and to be discovered in ihv luggage 
 of the son certain (^Tensive drawings of the Sultiin 
 himself. The neighbor was a man of wealth and 
 influence, and in conse'iuence the thing was not 
 dinicull to in, mage. 
 
 ■ Hut.' cried the poor bookseller, v;hen he was 
 accused, " I did not order tlie books!' 
 
 "'Nevertheless,' they answered, 'here arc the for- 
 bidden volumes in the bale.' 
 
 "'These papers,' the son ])rotcsted, ' I h.ive tiuver 
 si'cn iu-fore!' 
 
 Ah,' they answvred, ' but we have found thcni in 
 your trimk.' 
 
 "Tlif result w.is," the ''UcrpR'tiT eo'ichi.k'd. 
 " that fathrr and son were case into j^rison. The son 
 languished and die<l, but the father was liberated 
 when tlie Turks Ii;i(l sueke<i liis fortune from !nm, 
 1 haw not seen the man for ;i vcrv long time." 
 
 "And the _\oung wifi •'" 1 in(|uired. 
 
 " Really." tlie Interpreter r'.'plied, ' I do not know 
 what became of her." 
 
 I wondered — perli.aps unkindly — how the ecn'et- 
 ous nciglibor liad Vicm ni;ide .aware of the poor book- 
 seller's most intimate affairs. 
 
IV 
 
 i 
 
 IN CA.MI' AT (Ii:i;k^lli;i;A 
 
 \\ri: CPU. to IkrrslK'ha from B\h Daliarivcl, next 
 
 \ Way. n. a uuxlsK.rni, a .Iriviii^r ^raU, il,e horses 
 
 l^'K'K'iig .Iis,.iriu.,l. The air was parching an.i misty 
 
 \yl'"luMl.lnw„ ,„ M-M,,, i!„. u.l.Krness; and some i.llr 
 ol.i wiseacres, loitering near, said thatall travell.r. in 
 the san.ly .lesert wouM 1,,. i„ ,„.ril. h is ,-, mush 
 room trading settlement, inr these six wars a strug- 
 gling markc^l-place; they had .liggd np the ruins of 
 the ancient city to nnkv nrw iK.hitatiuns- ,-, tun, nf 
 'l.espa.h.. and here aiv thr squ.uvd M<Kks nfiallrn 
 I'alaces ready to hand. The kannakam said th,t 
 we must rule thence t- Gaza on our wa\- to El 
 Ansh, "rn,len.;lartl!eroii our journc-v, Icsi 
 y> harm on tiie j.Iains, where,' saiu 
 Bedouins ;iiid no fannhar jxiths. 
 said tliis tmnd man, "ridrs toCla^a, and therefore 
 "•"St you. 11 vo„ took Ihe path of vour chousing 
 and met with evil treatment, ],ow should I escape'" 
 Ue vvouM not !,uy his acciuiescenee (were that his 
 moaning), but .,uietly planned to dep.-irt in the earlv 
 "'-nung, ehoosmg the shorter w,.v to the half-w'.v 
 sUttK.n ot Ralieh. which was to our hking. 
 
 21 
 
 \vi' t'onio 
 u\ Ui're ni,ui\- 
 ■ I'.)\\'r\-liod\-,' 
 
r,()\\{] 1)()\V\ TRUM J i: R U S.\ L i: M 
 
 Thcrr at Brcrslu'lia arr Aliraham's wells; and tliis 
 ln'in;^' {he V(.t>- frdilivr of the lianlicst tnurist \van- 
 (Icriiijijs — the fartlic'St objcctixf of al! those ilevDted 
 pilgrinia.i;es which astound and disfjuiet the simple 
 travcllcr^wi' determined that our dejjarture tlience 
 u]>on the untroijden vvays into I-!,uvpt should in some 
 meet way he siijnalized. It was no lla.Ljrant ex- 
 pression of distaste for trip-ticket company, which, 
 in Palestine, whatever (.Isewhere, is somehow pecul- 
 iarly grateful e\en to the hapless apostate (as I ha\e 
 been told) — like the sweet simplicity of children. 
 Our small eelel)ratir)n should be like a saucy snap 
 of the fingers directed at whatsoe\-er had been irk- 
 some or fearful or bewildering in the lives we had 
 lived; here, at last (thought we), was the roarl be- 
 yond — free and still, leading far and strangely: 
 upon which no disturbing word mi,L;ht follow from 
 any yesterday. 
 
 Ali M.ihinoud, the big muleteer, acquainted with 
 the khawaja's con\-i\ial ititention, instantlv proposed 
 a sheep, tender with youth and the new grass of 
 those green hills, to l)c boiled with rice in a great 
 copper pot, which the cook m.- ::t liorrow from the 
 town, and sauced with curr\-, to whieji th • klidi.uijifs 
 excellency might add sour pickles, were his generos- 
 ity only sufficient to that altitude of magnificence. 
 Presently, thereafter, tlie cook slaughtered a sheep 
 in the street, operating with gravity, in the presence 
 "t a e<)Vttous throii;^'. 1 fancied, looking about upon 
 all those desir(.)us eyes and uneasy lips and tongues, 
 
 22 
 
1 .\ C A M 
 
 1' .\ 
 
 I' HI-: i; RSI! iCHA 
 
 that t]i( 
 
 ht' a 
 
 ly 'nu-ani clamor n{ l^(,.rshd,a wnuM h 
 tumult ]ia<I I tlie cars t.. hear it. 
 
 The carcass was shouldered into cam,. Ii,,wc\-er 
 '" Pj'acc an.l pn>,nptly packnl awav „, th, pot' 
 "^;.f •\'; '■''—' 3,,.l hi.nsd, u-,vstc,I from a 
 .solitary H,,ioum encamped near hv. havin.; satis- 
 fied the u-retched man, after loud brou-l.eatin-; uitJi 
 a niere promise of reward, in the persuasi^■e 'Syrian 
 
 I observed while we waited tliat Ihe voun.i^er 
 /^'hnn^aia was indusiriouslv c.nploved with a pcieil 
 and paptr. ' 
 
 eve™''"'"'''^'"' '""'''"- ^^P''^ '''^^ "i^ Xew-Vear's 
 "How do you know ii?" 1 deman.kd 
 "I have floured it out," heanswered, triumphantlv 
 I. re then, was reasonable occasion: I sul,stituted 
 It tor that sentmien^al consideration which had in- 
 spired our feast, and was tlu- n„ ,re at ease for havin-^ 
 "ly feet upon such sr.lid -rounrl. * 
 
 It uas bitterly dark abroad wJien the admirable 
 Aboosh fetched us to co,npk te the s,|uatiini, circle 
 ol muleteers and camp servants in the cnk's tent 
 Ihc wnd was blowin,^ hi-h from tjie stonv wilder- 
 ness of Bcersheba-that vast .Ircad barn-n-an-l the 
 ram was dnvm,^ past in noisy showers; but the tent 
 was warm and H.^^m ^-ith many candles, th.' lL,p was 
 peKS;ed ti^ht against the wet drau.dit. the feast was 
 spread fragrant and bount.ously. and the companv 
 
 ^3 
 
 M 
 
 ti: 
 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 if 
 
G (J I \ Ci DO W \ I' J< ( ) M J i: u L' S A 1. i; M 
 
 was of oxcvlliiit humor ami many jovial accom- 
 plishments. The yinini^'cr khauuijtt, cxj)aii.lini; atlcr 
 meat, w-niM cxhiliit the miv/w stick at pleasure (said 
 hei; and this he nio\ed to do, ]<\i\. dnuvl no stick 
 at hand, sa\r the donkey-stick ot tlu' youuL,' impisli 
 I lamed, uliieh lie must ma-^icallx cou\crt into a stick 
 of that ma^'ical quality den.anded l.y the feat. 
 
 It was not a difrK-ult iJnnu to do: tlu- yiPun,L,'er 
 kluiwijii had in the seclusion of his tent suspended a 
 black thread from kniv to kiue, so that, squattin.t,' 
 behind the i-andle li-ht, with the thread drawn 
 taut, he was t'li.iMed to prrsuade tlu' \erv donkey- 
 stick lit llanied to stand upri.i^ht In'tweiMi his le.ys, 
 without the support of so much as a (in,v^er-tip, like 
 any stick of induliitahly ma.yical pedii^ree and power. 
 Search as tluy mii;ht for tln' ma.i,McaI means com- 
 mande(] !,\ the youn-er klhi:r,ii<i, they could not see 
 the thr id, a.^ainst which the stick leaned. The 
 thin«,' remained a mysterv: and in return lor tJiis 
 amazin.i,' e\h!l)ilioii, Ali .MahuiMud, •wiin-JMri' .usly 
 hristlins.; his ri'd stuiiMeof brard, said that he would 
 then entertain the company l.y rdatine tlie most 
 humorous story ever known to have .sli])ped from 
 the tonijue of any inventor of tales since the very 
 WMild be,i,'an, callci l.y ihose Bedouins of far Ncjil 
 "The Tale of the C'amel wliieh I'lew." 
 
 It was a successful adventure for Ali M.ihni^.ud: 
 Irom Elias of Jerusalem, the cook's bo\, n, the ex- 
 quisite Ahoosh himself, they were hv turns all en- 
 wrajjped and shak.n with lau,L;hler; and 1 wisJi that 
 
 W'i 
 
iX CAM I" .AT HI- [•: RSIf FBA 
 
 I misht reprat the story, bul .nn uuaM,. ,„■ \l„,o^h 
 s-.llly >nl..rmoI n,r, whc„ 1 ,k.n.an.k..l iJu. mUr 
 protation that ,],. Er,^H.]i la„.ua^c. I .cin^ some- 
 what ma.lniuau. in m-pcct to douhlc nicanhms 
 ma.lc ,t impossible for hi,„ to convey t],. cic-Icvtahle 
 '"'U'hcacv..fth.fal.. in any chaste "form 
 
 ll 's th. uay," sai.l he, by wav of apolo^v Jiis 
 vyv spcxulalixcly re^anlin^ me, " wkh manv iharm- 
 m,U lUduum tales." 
 
 I made no demand tijion his modesty 
 '•They may be told in Arabie." lie cv.nlinue.l. uill, 
 ri'lK-t, bnt not even thon-ht of in I'n-li^h " 
 
 llavm.^ „.,w feasted hearlilv. uv had aeeonn.lished 
 little enough, after all. „p,,n the I„k1v of Uva .luvp- 
 there reniamed fraiL^nnents. 
 
 'Are tJure no hun-;ry hereabout'" I asked. 
 Tlie e.H,k discovers sevc-n patient Hedom-ns of 
 that^ uildcrness waitin- in the rain. 
 "Tm \vhomsoe\er will eat," said [. 
 A curious thiti.^ happened : Tlte seven came bravely 
 to share our benefKvnce. uitl, neither bristlin- of 
 I"-"'*' '""• l-'ssenin.u of it, uiih,,ut fawninL:, cnvv" or 
 awkwar.lness, with no appearance of h:,tred or de- 
 nieanm.ir humility, but procec'din-:. in all thin-s as 
 with j.roj.riety. ik,v (tlK.ui^rht I, wen- late -niests 
 •".;'^"" <■■''■''': -""l 1 niust. someb.w, e.xehanue the 
 
 jx'lite expressions with tlirm 
 
 "f'Tc thev ate of 
 
 that which was left, lest I suffer in t],,,t ,h\u,itv 
 and munilieence which all the.se folk conu-ived me 
 tw possess. It was a-reeable, ind.ed. to encounter 
 
 '5 
 
 > H 
 
 it 
 
Gf)I\'(; nO\V\ FROM RUSAL RM 
 
 these who mi-ht with- ait nfiVna' a-cvivc tin- crunil.s 
 from our tal.lc, FlsrwhcR. (I am told) -in those 
 places where independence is the fashionable estate 
 —this may not l.e .lone: it seems that none is jx-r- 
 mitted to take Ixninty and live respected, nor arc 
 many able to dispense it witli,,ut pride: there are 
 the needy and the beneficent, l)ut mharmoniouslv 
 related. ^ 
 
A WAVSinK MIVSTREL 
 
 \\rh ^^■vn■ a.-tir before daw,,. „i,,vin^ vul, .,„ne 
 
 y y '''nUnii.iuMuseautiMn.tnnuiwit ihv kann.ikan, 
 
 wl... ha,linrhi,l,len ..ur ,k.,,,nure tMuar.l the plains' 
 
 It was sr,ll raining; l,„t the ,n.at uirul <.t yesterday' 
 ^^"hH ha.i distressed n„r l.^sts, was now falK-n 
 awav. and ihv siir.w.rs eanie -entlv fr,„n the vanish- 
 ing,' shadows roun.labout. At ,Hvp ,,( ,lav the- skv 
 beyond the farthest ..utlin.. ..f ,h. lulls ^ave rosy 
 promise: and ii was all warm and vellow in th'e 
 :;"'■''' "■'''■" ^^■"^'^''"- to tl. hrlile plateau l,evn„d 
 1 eersheha. The new o,rn, sprin^in^ after nun, 
 Klis ene<l m the sunH.^^ht, stretdnn,, fmn, the san,lv 
 I>aths we rode to tlie ha.c> of distance and the blue 
 :";"! <" sonu. .reat Inlls; and over this illimitable 
 ""! ran the shadows nf ,,.reat flvin,^ masses of eloud 
 -here a elear shadow and tl-.ere a far-off streaminjr 
 shower of ratn. There was a traveller t„ the wreteh- 
 ^■' town, <arrvin,^ urain .,n the back of his eamel 
 ^^ho pass.d tnnidlv, but with some pleasant saluta- 
 tion an,eit uttered haltin,,lv: tlK.re were, shv shep- 
 herds by the way. with stax-es and pip.s, wl,:. laek- 
 ing courage to gaze, lied with tlie sheep a't ot:r 
 
 -' 7 
 
 'h' 
 
 Ii 
 
L101.\(. l)(.u .\ 1 ROM J|.;uL. S.M.I, M 
 
 approacji. hut iJh,v was no oth.T human, ,i scuuctI 
 
 t" cncvuuUcT, ih,n,.rj, „v cvspici the hlaek tents and 
 
 moni„i« hrcs ,,, t],> ,,ast.,ral Bclouins „f those parts. 
 
 We basked in tlie ease and ccnifortable heat ut mir 
 
 journey, nding idly, with reins faHen; since we nii-rjit 
 
 niaimp at pleasure, n.. need commanded us- "e- 
 
 mame.1 to i,s unimpaire.l what will we ha.l and all 
 
 the hours of .lay. The caravan dawdled after- I 
 
 cau;,htearof ,h.. la.yi)ee-up!"of [hnud to his 
 
 'Innkey, the lau.rhtcr of Ali Mahmoud, the c'hatter of 
 
 the ccok and the muleteers, the hells of ,n,r mules 
 
 rhcse were grateful sounds, indee.1. come fro 
 
 mellowni^r Wistance to the sunshi.ie and w, 
 
 pect of earth and iluudy skv. 
 
 It was a ple-.sant thin- Ub.u-ht I) to traN. 1 tims 
 in spnn^ wi-atlKr. 
 
 om a 
 ■vi'le pros- 
 
 Present 
 
 y we were in the way ..f ov.rtakln.r a 
 
 traveller whose curious beha\ior 1 ha 
 
 time rriTiarked 
 who Would now 
 
 Irom tune to 
 ] ie was a furtive fell( ,w, ,i,r, ,in,ir afoot, 
 , .,, . "^'''^'' '^''^^^'' ""wloiUT, nowpau.se 
 
 u-ithout occasion, all the whil. keeptn,,^ wateh up, ,n 
 us over his shot.LKr. I., appeared as we dn w near 
 that he wore neither the- /.,;;/,,<■/. nor ,;/./>a-tIu. head- 
 .Iress and envdopin,, eloak-^.,f thos. wanderiti,. folk 
 ntthe deserts and (,utlyin.tr fields, hut was clad in the 
 skirt and jacket of the wall ,as they sav> his Ju.ul 
 bound about with a lunp white cloth' It w 
 circumstance to excite the wonder of any man/ 
 Here is no Bt'dMuin," said I. 
 
 28 
 
 s a 
 
A w A \- S I D i: M I X s T R i: 
 
 "Nor :,n ICvyptian naunun^ ,,. Cur.," ,,^1,..! 
 „";"^V^" '•'"'^' "■'^' ""■• -This ,s a .M„h.nn- 
 
 ;;AL_anyraU,"sa„l L ■]..■ .ravj. .. L.vpt." 
 
 ..,.j;\;;,r""; '•';';''■" -^l sh.leclami:i„pi,v. 
 
 ^:,^ -^^'l-n-dyp.nshi,M]u.descTthotwecn.- 
 
 -^^^J'-'VI],,, vis !n,n,,vr,-li„siste,i."l}uT. is com- 
 passion amouL: AI. .Jiamniclans." 
 
 ,: ''' '^:'^'I'^"''■■'''^'^'''^''•■'"■''''^'^■'•'"^'•P^^i^•i^■a- 
 " l^rnly," [ aiismrcl, .l,.i,l,t|VlIv 
 •^}oumay,l,i„ks,,.-sai,lln.,ui,hau-n„,li„!olauc^h 
 
 ;:7"''- ''^'■•7''''=^^'' '-'-'''.•■> to ,h,si„,i„Ku.v 
 '"''-•v-<l>. n,,u-„p,,n h.snuttK, .f .v.r a cuiick 
 
 ;"■;;■" '7, ;'':'•-•••' •^-'•-^'- Ai.o..sh .xcij;' 
 
 ^" ■'' '.''''"•''''^■''•■•■'.^'''''-"'■"^tantly burst i„t,.I,,u.h' 
 ;;\;^\'''''^'"''';' ^-''' ^^-vas p.ril,,us!v situau.,1 
 
 '>-i |--k-ni ,„r a tn.vnin.^ countr„ancv~somc ar- 
 -jsat,,.na„,lfa,ju.,-ly solicitude. " 1 1, is a rascal '•■ 
 ■At"-sh cxplanu.l inicanin- a conmal f,.|!,,u-. |, 
 
 •I 
 
GOI.VC, DOWN- FR(,.M j K R r S A I. i; ,m 
 
 scenu.l. indcvd. that ]u. u-as: t],,.,v uvr. m.Mv u-onls 
 more- lauKhtcr -l.ut >rt tJ,. suuu- calculating tuinklc 
 n. th.l.n.u-n eyes afoot. I ,„avivnl :t rhvlhn, i„ 
 tlK' VuuuK man's talk, a rhyme. to,.-a su'.vi ;nH 
 tender a.-reenK.it.,fso„n,ls-an,I I sunnisol that he 
 was nnprovisin-: wliirh tunir,] out to he true- he 
 
 KHl taken, as I K.arm,] at the en.l of ,,u,- iournev.'ihe 
 tnnlmK caravan, the luxunously n,!i„^ ,ira„mKu, 
 an.i the awkwaniness of tlie ^irax--hain-l kl„:r.,;', 
 t' "-the subject of some sarcastic ^ ersifie.tiou Hut 
 .1. „otkuou-it,h.a:I u-asattluthnei„u.reste,l 
 to ni,serve that he was youn- aT-,| unprovi,],.,] pict- 
 uresquely lacking in every precaution, an.l'of a 
 
 jc.vial disposition -exprelin.t; the ^4hs of the ,1s 
 
 >t see,nc.l. m return for this ready-flowin-^ wi t • ■[ 
 ra--l lu.Ipless, most san,,Mnnc. traveller, dependin.^^ 
 
 upon the chances of the road for sustenanu and all 
 the comfort of companions],i,,. I f,,,,,,- ti,,^ j.j^ 
 
 rhymes had iKvn fashioned to enraptun. the ex- 
 cellent \l„,osh while the desperat. po.t await.d our 
 appnjaeh over the wet alien plains. 
 
 ^^ " I am Rachid," said lie, in answer to mv question, 
 a coflee-maker of Jerusalem, last emplovcl hv 
 Havid s Oate." " 
 
 ^^ '^ Wi|f do you," Tasked, -alone ui.on tin se far 
 "I tra\-el into E_<rvpt." 
 
 " It is a journey," said r, •■ perilous to a lonelv man " 
 
 ../^'7 ^''^'^-^''^ ^''i .^"""1 ^'ompany,- he 'replied, 
 travels securely and in plnitv." 
 
IN THE coffee-house: rachid h 
 
 AD SAT 
 
 WITH 
 
 Three youths 
 
A \V A \' S I [ ) n M I X S T R E L 
 
 ' Wji.it CMtiipaiiy ;i\v;iits you?" 
 
 "I ask iKi liillcr," Ik- answered, tnuchinp; his lips 
 and f()re}K';i<l, 'tlian the company of Uu- IJhiit'iija's 
 excellency." 
 
 "Gmie!" Siiid I, deli,^litol, " I will h.ar vour sb iry." 
 
 Wc rode (III, at a foot pace, with Rachid abreast. 
 It seemed that in the roliVe-house l.\- David's ( iatc 
 tliis kaehid li,i<l not loni,^ since sat with tliive vouths 
 ot iIk' town. '"Come!" said ont.'; "how shall a youiii,' 
 man fire in Ixi^yjit.'" 'It is beyond doulit," an- 
 swered anMthcr, "that hr will easily i)rosper." 
 "But," asked Raehid, "Imw >h.ill a vouhl; man with 
 but three eo]iper hcsliliks to his name j;o d.iwn {< ' 
 E^'ypt?" "in tliree da>-s," rcjilieil thi' sreond, "'wo 
 rieh trawlK'TS depart from Jt rusaiiin to c-ross the 
 desert, as it is said in the town; there is nothint^ easier 
 tliaii to take ser\iee wiili tluni." I-'aiiiiifj; to o1)tain 
 this service, R;u'hid detL'nniiiid, ne\ertheless, to 
 tolldw liis adwnture; he would s.,'0 down to Iv.^'\-pt, 
 cotne what mijjit, and there abundanth' pros])er. 
 "1 will depart this very ni,L;ht," thou-ht he. " nm- 
 nin,Lj in ad\-aiice of these travellers, and when three 
 days of their journey ha\-e passetl I will present my- 
 self with all tlie wit tliat I huvv. Deli^'hted with 
 rTie, they will bei,^ me to accompany them, and I 
 will tell nian_\- stories, sin.!,^ nianv son.t^'s, be watchful 
 in ser\-ici', never failinij; in .ijoodduniior, so that when 
 the jovu-ni'y is o\-er they will ,i,n\-e me a ^ift i.f ,uold, 
 with which I shall fouml a forttme in E^t^fN-jit." 1m-( iin 
 Jerusalem, then, Went he to Hebron, to the Bedouin 
 
 i . 
 
GO I NT, nn\V\ PROM 
 
 i: k i; s.\ 1. 1: m 
 
 vi Halt's, t<) Bcersheha, and Id thr jilains hfyoml, 
 wluTi', c'onipdlnl now of hun^iT ttt lie ovortakin, hi- 
 had awaitifl our caravan, spending the nij;ht in tin.- 
 o|K'n, lest his intention to depart from I'alestiiU' be 
 (hscovcred 1p\' llie soldiery of the town. 
 
 The k'lhtu'iijii," he eoneUided, ilesiK.Tately, "will 
 lie iKli^'hteil with nie." 
 
 We accepted liim forthwith. 
 
 "I should like," said he, now frankly cryin ;, 'to 
 kiss the khawaJLi's hand in token of my liondaj^e to 
 his j.;enerosity." 
 
 "Had you not rather eat a I'mF "f thi' klirr^iiii's 
 bread ?" I asked. 
 
 He insisted thai tliis was not so, but ate with in- 
 terest, yt)U may bi' sure, when he <^i>\ the bread in his 
 tinj^ers, and then fell back to accompany the mule- 
 teers. At noon, while we lay resting,'. I heard the 
 lau.uhter of llitir approai-h, and conciised tluin a 
 happy company; anil I observed as they passeil that 
 they travelled in a iostlini; ;j;n»up, with the ro,i;uish 
 Rachid declaiming': in the midst, his hands <.,'estnrinj,', 
 his eyes w'v\v witli the excitement of his tale, so 
 forgetful in this occupation <if the r ai,L;h plact's of 
 the road that hi' stumbled as he w<.nt. When I 
 tm'ncd, it was to the amazing discovery of Aboosh 
 in the act of listening to the departing story. He 
 lifted a finger fur tli. iiiilulgence of silence — for a 
 moment longer corked liis ear — and presently (with 
 all the muleteers) lairst into a roar of laughter as the 
 entertaining Rachid concluded his recital. 
 
 32 
 
\'I 
 
 TKAKS l.\ Tin; Nir.llT 
 
 Wl : fne.miiKvl ,m ;i grassy i.laiii uIrtc loot-paths 
 trosstfl— f()ot-patlis\vanilfrinj( idly iif)\vhcro fit 
 soonicd), used by })arc-footed. casual UAk, goiuj,' with 
 «rave steps. It was not a namolcss place; Lnt I i an- 
 not spell the name, nor can any one I know. Near 
 by was the sun-baked mud slK)p of an Kgyi)tian 
 trader with a wily, oily way, situate conveniently 
 at these cross-roads, who kejit cheap thiii}.;s for sale, 
 but must have starve! had his stomach l.ccn r,f ;, 
 lusty sort. The black tents of a shepherdini; Hrdnuiii 
 tribe were set in orderly arranj^jenient l)eyond : w hnuc 
 was no issue of commotion, Iml onlv the ajiprarine 
 lights of hearth fires fin that dusk) and {\w dn. iic of 
 a sleepy, amicable life. Here, indeed, was a peaceful 
 pros])ect of darkeninj,' space and .irrass and hi,i,rh sky; 
 and it was very still in ilic /orM ; I fancied that in 
 this obscure by-place all jicnple went on tipt..,. and 
 spoke in whi,spers. In the vision of those mild days 
 It ai)])cars to me now as an cxjiression of the Twi'nty- 
 tlnrd Psalm, It was a fertile pasture, a pfreat land, 
 stretcliin,!,,' unbroken, saw whei-e iIk' nc^w p]out,died 
 brown earth ^aw pronn'sc of the sustaininrr green; 
 
 63 
 
 .i 
 
 ■1 
 
(W^lXd DOWX FROM J C R U S A I, i: M 
 
 and lliouph no riwr was flowiiii^ near, wi tlierc was 
 a s])riiij,' of water, wheiicf the Htilouin cliiMreii came, 
 (lri\infj donkH'Vs, hcariiij,' '^wni water-iars, inakins^r 
 no souiiil hut a sott ami musical cncourat^cnicnt as 
 they swilclicil and called the hoini^ward wav. When 
 ni,^ht was come at last -the Arab llrt'S extinguished, 
 the last child lionie from the well, the cnmson <^low 
 of day withdrawn, the splendor of stars ajijiearin^i,^ 
 above tile x'acant shadows (jf uie ]'lain — we lay (.kiwn 
 to sleep with willing souls. 
 
 I was awakened in the ni^diL by some (.me sul)l>ing 
 by the tent door. 
 
 "Who is that:-'" I calk'd. 
 
 There was no answer; but ])rcsentl\- I heard .\bor)<;li 
 wlHs])crin;j; in a soothin-,' wa\-, Ai;ain I demanded 
 to know the cause of this .urief. 
 
 " It is Racliid," Aboosh answered : " he is h.oniesick 
 for h.is molher." 
 
 Poor Rachid' 
 
 " Rachifl asks me to say,"Abf)osh C"ntint:ed, .after 
 an inter\-al. throu.yh which the wiTiehed bov had 
 sobbed and sjioken and chattered tin the en],] uiolit 
 air), " that he wislies the klhihaiii to slee]i,dreannn,i,^of 
 him as smilini:: in the li;,.,dit of the kliiih\iia's fa\-(.ir." 
 
 I ]iromisi'd R.achid this indui.L^ent'i'. 
 
 "He has ne\'er before been from home," said 
 Aboosh, inter] )retin,L,^ "and is much sur])rised: the 
 width of these plains has tVi,^hteneii him, and he 
 wishes for the buildings of some city." 
 
TR A RS rx THF- XIC IIT 
 
 "Pnn-idr hini," s;ii<l I, distressed, "wilh suT- 
 ficieiit to return to Jerusalem." 
 
 Then' was thi'U a .L^reat whispenn.t,^ witliout. T 
 di'tei'led in the xoiee <,{ AIkimsIi a deal of admonish- 
 ment; he was a i)ers()n most fa!herl_\- to the unfortu- 
 nate (heeause of t!ie exliaustini: experieiiees of his 
 youth), but was n )\v liardly m<.re than a man .errown. 
 Rachid ])rotested : he had t'orijjwt, it seemed, llie wish 
 lor Ins mother. 
 
 "Conud" I eried. im])atient. 
 "Tie will jH'rsist," Alioosh answered. 
 "Hut why," I com]iIained, "if lie is to continue 
 tmha])i)y "' " 
 
 Alioosh laui^lied softly. 
 "Well:-" said I. 
 
 "I cannot tell you in En,c;lish: the younc; man has 
 sp(;ken his answtT in rhyme." 
 " Vou can trv." 
 
 ";ie says," Ahoosh reported, laboriously, "that 
 though the walls of a room ,uv like the arms of a 
 UKAher in the nii^dit, a distant adventure is like the 
 ]i])S ot some \eiled woman obserwd in ])assin,l,^" 
 
 "Then by all means," said I, heartily, "let him 
 eom.e into Ix^'V])! ! " 
 
 " I^at why, sir.^" .\boosh asked. puzzle<l. 
 I was ii;lad to stand by the s])irit of ;joetry and to 
 welcome the ])ursuiL of romance in a youth; but this 
 I could not explaiti. 
 
 "lie wants " said Abnosh, in Innvilderment, "only 
 to sec the liirlits of Cairo " 
 
 35 
 
 i' 
 
(10 IXC, DOWX FROM JERUSALEM 
 
 "Let him st-t,' tlir lights (<\ C;iiro," I nnswcivil. in 
 ;i \\';i\' Im l(.';i\i' iipm nu reply. 
 
 That, was tlir ciul 1 1| it ■ Ahni .sli \\\'iu to hoi, k'a\- 
 injij Rafliiil tucuii up uuik'r his mat. ai^ain, shixcriiiL^ 
 in the ni.L^ht air surrK'iciitI\- \i< make anv otiu'r port, 
 hdXW'Vcr t'xaltr'l alM)\c i^'n iss conit'orlaltk' ihinsjjs, 
 willins:; to cxch.iiii^'r a rh_\-nif tor the warmth of a riiir 
 and an enclost-il room. Ikit I was troukk'il; il 
 Seemed to nu\ afli'r alk tliat the adxenture ot" this 
 poet — east unknowing into the i(reul\- W(jrld of 
 Cairo— wot:]. 1 result disastroll^l\■. 
 
VII 
 
 (■."f\i', I-A-^r AM) WFCST 
 
 "lA/'l-- niM\i.,l, ^,,,,11 .liter ,l;i\vn, into the lartlicr 
 
 VV |.l,iiiis, tMw.ii-ii iIr. .IrMTt. I ivnimilirr that 
 
 thr white imilr, wlm-h Ir.l the ciravai. .if juek- 
 
 aiiimals, iKMhrki.,] with heails aii^l iiiaiiv l.rlls, ac- 
 
 conliii.t^r t,, hrr,ir-ixv, aivl jealMtis >,\ that kM^lrrship, 
 
 was impatient \n ]>v ,i;one wilh her loa-]. knowing; 
 
 w.H eii'iii^h tliat she ini-ht not i\'St (nor niiL,^ht an\' 
 
 nriik'tet'i-) tnitil the sinrH ot' walei- nnlieali'.l the t'lid 
 
 o| her ihiy's labor. ■'Whishie" -t hat stra\- doi^r ,,1' 
 
 jerusakMn whieh had toll.>\ved our fortunes for dear 
 
 and eonstant love of tiie white mule - liarked her into 
 
 snkser\iene>- to the raueou:, eommands of .\Ii .\kih- 
 
 nioud in a fasliiou m,,st intelli.i^n'nt. knt then nes;- 
 
 leeted he!- utterlx', hein.L,' interesle<l in the pin'suit 
 
 ot ,L,n\'at krowii field-nnee, whieh she eould not resist, 
 
 and m eertain itncsl i,ij:ations of the sand\- .ground 
 
 <|inte heyond humans lo fat hotii. W'c wrrc i)resentlv 
 
 Koiie from that ]iea((hil eneami>menl. t<» whieh I 
 
 shall e\i'r wish to reHn-n, for the sak.^ of that still, 
 
 .grassy spaee, the ,Ln-een fertility, the soft-sIl(\^kinl,^ 
 
 roked, and ha n footed inhabit, nits, (|uietly li\ing-- 
 
 lairly under \\,iy, now, the eamp-lolk toUowing, if 
 
 .5 7 
 
 M 
 
 i: 1 
 
('<»1X(, DOWX 
 
 l< < ' M j !•: R V S A 1. i: M 
 
 I I 
 
 I' 
 
 lati,L,'litcr (r^aclii.l iKHij^wuii thciii) and ciiiklini,' 1k-I!s 
 meant anvthintj. 
 
 \\f in-uetHMlc'd, ndinu lazily, in the s])irit liftin.i,' 
 Ki-.itrtul amis in thr new-wasIiiMl sky, to the sun'^ 
 slniK', the ,i,MVcn of earth. I< . ihc^ co(,l ,ie\v, falK.n thick, 
 and mure l(Aely than diam.ind-sparkhn.i,'. u]H,n the 
 soft ruad we travelled and all the uorl.i hevond. 
 I5y-anil-l.y we fell m with a Bedouin in transit (jver 
 the plains, as one mo\-in^r ],is househoM. and sLopjied 
 to c.xchanj,^' the salutations of the road. It was a 
 curious procession: a .>;fa\el\- robed nian on the 
 e.xtrt'me of a small donlcey iwith a foal fo!lowin.L;) : 
 two lean eaniels, of teiuler ,i-r. laMrin- no loads; 
 two women an<l \arious children (numlierin.u not 
 more than lomM. walkm.ij afoot : three frowsy horses, 
 I)urdened to the uttermost; a led marc, and Iwo 
 diminutixe oxen. 
 
 "Where '^i* yuu. frien.],'" I asked. 
 " I ehan.Lre m_\- phue," said he. 
 " But why '" I pursued. 
 
 "There was tioihing left in the place I was." he 
 answered. 
 
 "To what ])lace do y, ,u -o?" I asked, the plain 
 apparently ol'ferin- no hettcr situation than that 
 which he had abandoned: the whole ,^r,„,d pas- 
 ture. 
 
 "To some other place," said he. 
 " What ad\antaii;e?'" 
 
 " By God! friend," he replied, testily, " it is an->ther 
 place." 
 
 38 
 
we: were presently gone from TH4T PFACEi^UL ENCAMPMENT 
 
GDI SO EAST AXD WEST 
 
 vSocTi tluTuift^T — while Racliid, trottin.i,' by my 
 stirrup, was en^'aKccl with souk' talc of the Wise 
 Cadi of Al Bursah — we eiieountered a worn young 
 wretch plodding eastward toward Bcershel)a. 
 
 "Whence?" I asked. 
 
 "These many da\-s from Egypt," said he. 
 
 The desert had left liim ragged and gaunt; but I 
 fancied that, however Sf)ent he was, this blossoming 
 and well- watered country would presently revive 
 him, and I was glad that he had achieved it. 
 
 "Why this arduous journey?" said I. 
 
 "It is said in Egypt," he answiTcd, hopcfullv. 
 "that a young man will surely thrive in jtTusalem." 
 
 Rachid did not resume the tale of the Wise Cadi of 
 Al Bursah. He had heard the traveller's answer; 
 and he was perhaps jierturbed that he should be 
 trudging hopefully westw.''.;d whence this gaunt man 
 had come. He wandered ahead, and there main- 
 tained his distance, as we rode, aj^pcaring disheart- 
 ened. When it came to the beating heat of noon, and 
 we dismounted to rest, he sat rtn his haunches, apart 
 from us, his head fallen between his knees (who was 
 used at all such times to a lively and encouraging be- 
 havior at our elbows) — a limp and clowncast poet, 
 it seemed. When, however, we had eaten, he aj)- 
 proached, and, having ceremoniously bowed, begged 
 leave to recite a little composition relating to certain 
 recent incidents of the road. He declaimed with a 
 relish, I need not say, and with all those little evidences 
 of delight with his inspiration to which wc are used in 
 " 39 
 
 
I, i 
 
 (i<'li\(i L)(J\V.\ iKU.M J i: R U SA 1. i; M 
 
 poets; hilt yet !iis ryos u.uild soinrwliat iMllirlicillx 
 stniy in,ni ihr eyes of Al n » psh --^i., wIim,,, thr \, rsrs 
 must iiLvds lie first ilclivcml — i, , tl)«,M ,,f tlic /,/;,; 
 aw;,/, wild imist nca'SSMi-ily fail 1.. jHTrriw the lituT 
 aspects n\ the jMKiii. \,> .JMuhl tlic (Ini-Miiian's iii- 
 trrj)i\lati..Ti did the -enius (.| this strav vmuiIi a dnar 
 mjiislice; tlieiv was ik . lulp \\,v it. and 1 am -lad that 
 K.irhi-l c.uld n-t kiiMU- I nvall soiiutliin- . ,f the 
 OMiipusitiMii; That it dealt uitli the ivstK'ss HedMum, 
 ;i dull tellMW, ehaii-in,-^ his plaee without purpi.se, 
 with uIkmu, eonlnisled, was the vcuth t'n.m l-:-ypl, 
 a man m(>\e.l hy a mei-eenar\- arnliitiou to undertake 
 .1 IKTilous i,.unie\-; wheiiee it pi^c-ded t" desenl.e 
 the hare-l.i-amed adv.iiture nf the p. ,et as SMUie hi-li 
 aspiralii.n toward that which 1 must call komance, 
 Rachid nrti\ed our applause with jo\-, and ran 
 "IT. uith •• Whishii^." the ,lo.:, to join the muleteers, 
 who liad ])assed l.\. 
 
 In tliese <lavs was an a-nvahle ama/.ennnt ; no 
 dc-sertthis, l.ul a wide an.' t'ertile land, Ivin- Let ween 
 the sea, whith ouce .glimpsed hiui' and tar away, and 
 a ranL;e of l.arren mountains, tlnve days' jouniev in- 
 land. It yields almndantly to an ind.oleni cultiva- 
 tion; an.j for the rich har\est come in the season a 
 host of ea-er l-:-yptians, with tli^ir lou- trams of 
 camels, to trade for the -rain; so thai (said thev) 
 liiere w. re a thousand tents julched liereal,. ,uls. and 
 a jovous actixity, with spectacles and merreniakin-, 
 like a lair. Everywhere I observed fra-nienls of 
 
 40 
 
V, O I \ G !■: A S T A X D WEST 
 
 I'arlhrn \v;itAr-j;irs. llnw Imii; tlu' j^'oats'-hair tt'iits 
 lia\c liirii iiiii\in^ t>\\v tlnst- plains CiOil knows, l)ut 
 it st'cnis that vwvy \i»>\ nf thr lan'l must in its day 
 haw lirrn a warm hrarth. 'l'hr_\' \\\w now turnini,' 
 tlu' Imiwii fu'Ms, with i-anuls liarmssi'd h > [\iv ])1iiul;1i, 
 111- scwini;, in \\\v aiiriml way, a hand scattrrinj; (>\rr 
 Uk' shallow furnius. I rcnicmlirr this as a ilrwy, 
 ])asli>r;d laiiil, nl wet hmwii larth, sliv tlnwcrs, <>\ 
 wide sky and L^nat flonds, (if lldcks rL-lin'iiinj^ in 
 ihi.' dusk, lit a Sdtt-spcakini;, i^rnllc pe'dplc — plains nf 
 uttrrmi ist poari.'. 
 
 Xii da\' larki'd its sim]ilr interests. There were 
 ijjaztllrs liy (he wa\', little, leajiin;^' thin.ns, llashini; dlY 
 I mm a iier\dus hrowsiiiL; tn the seelusion nfdistance, 
 ha\inj^f no other eoM^r. A ruineil house, melaiiclioly 
 in the miilst of a eaetus- walled L;ai'den of li^-trees, 
 informed us of the deatli of a ;.q-eat pastoral sheik, 
 . ('eom]ilished in a ni^lit assault li\' the enemies of liis 
 trilie. The plains were dotti'd in a curiously regular 
 fashion with lily clusters (not yet in liloom), set out, 
 like survi'yors' stakes, to mark the lioundarics of 
 ownershi]); and hei\' and tlu're, hv the roadside, some 
 crusty fellows had raised liitk- ridges of sand, like 
 gra\es, to warn trcs])assers from their ground. 
 Rach d sang low songs, and Ali Mahmoud told tak's, 
 and Alioosh i\'lated his experiences, and Yusi'f, tlu' 
 Cook, woi'ked his daih' miracles with a charcoal sto\e, 
 and the white mule was amazingly industrious, an 
 example to tlu' others, and the dog companionalile. 
 Tra\elling thus happily, we fell in at last with the 
 
 41 
 
 f-i; 
 ■1! 
 
 1! 
 
 ? 
 
I' f 
 
 (J<)1\(; |M)\V\ I'ROM j i: R USA [, F. M 
 
 canu'l-ridin^ Turks who patml tlu' rnnititr t*. prc- 
 vcnt tlu' rscapr nf tile Sultan's unwillini; sulijfcts 
 trnm I'alrstinr int.. V.i[\]>t ( wlicnuiMm R;uhi,l 
 tniTililfd cxrtTilinL^lx-. hut was nut (|Urstii >nf(I i, ninl 
 tliat i'\rnin,i; cmssid tlic lumKr ,it Raticli, luurh 
 n'lii'\-c(l ti) \k' licyinil Ahilul ll.unj.rs junsWiction, 
 whnin uv hail not Iranicd lu low in his own do- 
 minions. 
 
 'Icrc bc'j^'an. almiptly, likf a hald spot. \hv sandy 
 (ii.,(jrt of ICt Tih: and hwr \vr cntiTcd the ancient 
 caravan routr to Cairo. I'min the summit of a 
 j^'entle rise of fad ins,' ;^Ti'en earth we first behold the 
 yellow e.xpanse and a ])ateh of cool lihu' sea: and we 
 Were mueh inowd, so that we paused, without in- 
 tention LO halt, and s])(;ke ne\er a word at all. It 
 seemed (I recall) that at some other time, having' 
 come to the crest of a little hill, I had stood un- 
 expectedly confrontin,^ an infinite distance of hot 
 sand; and then I remembered— the im])ression of 
 that other moment vnadly returninj^— that I had 
 ne\er looked upon a desert before, but had once first 
 seen the sea. 
 
 "Well," Abonsh ejaculated, snapping the tension, 
 '■ there it is!" 
 
 All at once the younger kliLra'aja spurred his horse 
 toa gallo]);and the whole caravan, with much shout- 
 ing and noise of bells, clattered down the hill at a 
 furious pace and crossetl the boundary into Kgypt. 
 
VIII 
 
 A FI.ICA ()\ ; mc liOlNDAKV I INK 
 
 UXTIL this tinir there Iiad coine willi us from 
 Ik'liron a Turkisli solilier, ridint,' a ymin^ 
 camel whose virtues lie boasted —and, indeed, ex- 
 hibited: the clean hnibs, tlie stride, and the docility 
 of the beast. It seemed a worthy camel: a camel 
 of excellent humor and of distinj^uished ])romise; 
 and it was much coveted by the way. At nij^ht, as 
 the custom is, the man was used to sleeping close to 
 his beast, the winds being chill; but now, at Rafieh, 
 while the mules were unloading and the cook was 
 coaxing his fire, he tethered the camel, flung his 
 saddle on the sand, and went oJT to the mud barracks 
 to hobnob with the Egyptian frontier guard. I was 
 ])resently alarmed by the co()k's outcry and a rising 
 excitement in canij): the docile camel was viciousH' 
 trampling his master's saddle, stujiidly believing 
 that he was engaged in his master's murder — a 
 savage and dreadful attack, a rearing and heavy 
 ])lunge. 
 
 "What!" ejaculated the Turk, when he was in- 
 formed of this. " Have I cherished a man-killer ?" 
 
 The camel was heartily beaten and reduced to his 
 
 43 
 
<■') I \ '. ixi w \ I- R() \i I i: k r s \ 1. 1: M 
 
 kiK'cs, uIi.rniiM.ii Ins .louMcl fore leg was tied so 
 that hi' o.tilil nsr hut with Wuticiilty. and \vr witli- 
 (Irt'W to observe his Ik li.iMnr, lor his master was not 
 yet convinced. Rise h.' Mid, ,, pirsislmt. silent 
 effort, ,iMd r.iutiously .ii.pro.K'licd th,. s,„ldle. which 
 he attaeked as savaj,'ely as belore, but now uiih oik- 
 hoof. 
 
 "1 h.iw had ,1 narrow (-^Mp,'," said tiir Turk; 
 '"'.' catiirl would haw kallcd n)c i,, lULdil. liy 
 <'""' ""' M"h.innnrd thr I'lMpl,,.! ..H\,.ir' 1,,, swotv. 
 ■' ' ;''! I"" ">'■ '"■.'^' in fli.' l'.-/ar ,it I!rersliel);i." 
 
 I iiii|uiri'd enn.-( ruuii; thr future .iwiur's pmspcet 
 ot I'liiif life. 
 
 "\\r :s III Cidd's h.aiids," was the .luswcr. 
 
 This is a dispositinu imu-Ji tran-d in ;i raiiicl; the 
 soMirr'sbrast H liev sa id I sIm Mild ha ve 1 „■, n 1 ,ulrlu red 
 l-n- fMf,d, K.M he.ier-.niphsh ,i murder. I have lie.ird 
 "I a revcn-rlul caincl wliieh hit nif the top of a hue's 
 li^-'d: hut thou.c'h t]ie disposition is known to ,,11 
 
 men, some s,ay that camels. lo not eniph.v their teeth 
 in attack. 
 
 Raehi.l was aflVc'rd to the piteh of hrwild.rmmt 
 hv the ehan.tre of .luthonly over him. W,- were 
 evn-y one ekated: one cannot pass at a step troni thr 
 nihniteannoyaiuv.,1 niis.^ovcrnment toan hoiiorahly 
 re-ukited domino,, ,ind kr„.w iio ivlirf. Thrre wnv 
 
 those of our company, indeed. wliMturnrdahcut \,,xy. 
 ■•ird Palestine ;.nd with meanin- m,aledieti<,ns eursed 
 that sovereign whom they called "'rhe Murderer"- 
 
 44 
 
A I !, i: A n \' THF. ^^IT\■^AR^■ 1. 1 .\ k 
 
 .iiiJ I rcc ill lli.il those* of us will) luii^'lil li;i\r kimwii 
 bcllcr uliolifally fonliil ;r.. iiii;i,i;iii,irv line wliicli we 
 cnntTivi'd to lif llic lioundary, ainl in unison (.iltcr 
 sonic hilarious rehearsal) fX]ir('ssi 1 a sul])iiunius wish 
 cnnccrnin^ the sdf-samc Mii,'liiv ()iu', of wIkjsc acts 
 wi- Iiail li'.itui-il iniicli ill tlic'>i' months, Racliii!. 
 li<i\\c\cr, niailc oil towanl the column whence the 
 boumlary cuts inlu the southeastern deserts, and 
 so ainazinp; was his hcha\ior — far off and alone in 
 the red sunset li,v;lit that 1 must ImIIhw to discoxcr 
 its si^niticancc. lie would now S(juat in lCi,'y]M, 
 there ri'mainini,' motidiilcss, turned towanl that 
 ijrccn and e\er '^I'eener land whence we had laddeii, 
 until all at once he wimld leaj) into Palestine, where 
 lu' would stand with arms tolded and heai. lallen 
 forward, starini' thrnutrh drawn lir'iws into the 
 sa lid \- desert and to 1 he unit mi; li^lil i.f t he he- .ens 
 lieyi 111(1. 
 
 " ! stand here," said he, in \"ast exciteiiunt, when 
 we inleiTUi)ted him, " aii'i ma\- he sei/.t'i 1 for a soldier 
 or ini| irisoiied to satisf\ ,, rich enemy or throttled to 
 ple.ise the \'ali (.1 a prie.nn'e; Imi ] nio\e out stc]), 
 which the kliiin\i;,i will ohserw"— he came from 
 Palestine intii h-L^-pt at a heiun- ' — "and lielmld! tlu' 
 ])owi'r of these i,'reat nu'ii has \anished : 1 am no 
 loiiLfer till sla\-i' of the old masters, Imt ha\t' be^ 
 come," he added, with a wry iiiDUth, "the ser'.'ant 
 ol masters whose faces 1 lia\e not stvn and whose 
 ways are new. I am troubled in IC.i,n-iit," said he, re- 
 turninj,; \i> Palest me, " beiiii,' a N'oimu; man far frcjni 
 
 45 
 
'/;l 
 
 COIXG DOWN FROM J [• R U S A L E M 
 
 home an<l ij^norant of the customs; hut I am frij^ht- 
 ened in Palestine, because I am a Moliammechui, of 
 a^^' 1o serve in the Sultan's army, and ha\-e once fled 
 from my city—" and forthwith tliu tortured poet 
 hasti'Ued into l\L^V]»t 
 
 " It is e\ident/' I observed, " thai you are doomed 
 to live the life of an uneasy Ilea (jn the boundary line." 
 
 " Has the blhiwaja spoken mv fate"'" 
 
 " Xot so," I answered ; " you mav eoniinue with us, 
 truly'" 
 
 "I have succeeded mightily," said he, in })ride, 
 "in escajiing from Jentsalem." 
 
 "IIa\ing (le]xirted without authority," I demand- 
 ed, "how, then, shall you ever return?" 
 
 "I will never return." he ..nswered, sadly, 
 " How shall you endure when he old voices call '" 
 In the way of ])oets, his imagination was (luick 
 to respond to this pinjirick; .md he sighed, rej-lying 
 slowly, "I will not listen." 
 
 "How if they speak wofully in the night'" 
 " My heart," he answered, whispering, "must have 
 no ears." 
 
 The i)0et turned his back on Palestine and followed 
 me to the tents; and to the joy of Aboosh an<l the 
 muleteers he was ])resentiy sjiouting doggerel in 
 some genial teasing of the cook, who had chanced 
 to overturn a i)ot of water on his fire. I fancied, 
 then, that the determination to ad^'enture in Cairo 
 was fixed, and I was glad that I should suffer no more 
 in sympathy with the young man's homesickness. 
 
 46 
 
A F L E A () X T H \l H O V X I) A R V L I X E 
 
 It seemed to me, too, I recall, that some poem would 
 (hjuhtU'ss flower from his unha])])y exjjerience by the 
 ancient granite column, and tliat we should be enter- 
 tained on the day's march with the recital, jKJSsibly 
 when tlie way was hot and wearisi.me and the s])irits 
 of our company had droo^u'd ; but there was no ])oem 
 ti) (leh,i(ht us: Rachid, oljserve, was as wayward as 
 any j^^reat poet. 
 
 I^M 
 
IX 
 
 THK KLXAWAV liKlHE 
 
 TTI'^RI-:, then, we niHrcd avjain thr dd vmiv int.i 
 1 1 I'-.^ypt, tniwlk-,] tlusr a-rs, Imt ik^w alnmsl 
 ■ '■rsakrii. a Inii^^, xdictK'ss, ,i^]i iwinL,^ r>a.I, l- lUchiiiL,^ 
 Ilir slinrr uf rlir sca, waiK Kriii,L( ,>vvr lilistiTnl salt 
 li"ttMiiis, past stagnant, inrnisU'-l i),,m]s, thnni-h 
 'Kvp sail,], .Iriltrd ill !;ills, siii. .kin- in thr win,]. 
 I'luTf IS si;inc c .niinrrcc !i.i\\,vn (la/.a and l']! 
 Arish, l.ctw.vn I-:i Arish and llir canal. Lri-l" trains df 
 • •anirls caiTvin- urain. and m tlif s.asnn .lr< .\cs i if 
 canuls pass I'n iin t!ir yyc:a Aral.ian 1 K'Srrt t.. tlir 
 markets <<\ IC^ivpt ; 1 .nt nonpulrnt caravans -o that 
 w V, as tnnncrl\-. n, .r is then' anywhere the su-- 
 .!-;i'stiMn (i| a fMrnier nn])()rtanct', saxc at !\alieh, 
 where a liroken ,i,'ranitc cohnnn hes Leside tlie r.iail, 
 half 1 itn-icd in the s.ind. 
 
 lH'\..nil I'd Arish is n.i 1..\\n, n. . considcralilc 
 ''■'''■'''t'"" "" iimre, at that seasim, than the linls 
 -t the k.<|Hrs ,,1 the wells, and wid.'lv dispersed 
 "ri'Mps ,.| -'.ats'diair teiiis, slieherin" a lie;,'-arl\- 
 '•few ..f lean, l.>wli\in;. l!ed<.nins W, lis are at 
 merciful intervals .], ep h,,K.s m die san.l, well kept 
 '" ''""^'' 'i^'.vs df the ( )cen|Kiti..n. l.nt ace uinulat in.^r 
 
 48 
 
T ii !•: R u \ A w A \ in< i I) !•: 
 
 hrackisli, liitlcr wattT. One \\\\l n\ swrd water I 
 rvciiU in a six days' jounu'y. They may l)c- sunk in 
 a harren, "-ithout a hush (ir hlailt' of ^rass to ^ijraci' 
 the nei,L;hl)i irho( 111 ; al llie nn ist. lieautiliil, a ,i,T()\i.' (if 
 (lalc-palnis rises fmni ihe sand. Tiu're is no oasis 
 dl the; inia,L;inalion on the (h'solate and forgotten 
 eara\an route tliat crosses the sandy desert of l':t Tih 
 into Ei^^yjit. It is a l.roilinij; path— hardly toleralile 
 at inid-d;iy, even in January. 
 
 In two days, llie sun a lih'sUrin,^, whitediot li.^^'ht, 
 pulTs of gritty dust rising with iistk'ss wei,t,'lil under 
 tile hoofs of our horses, we were at E\ Arish, a little 
 eity of lilindin,^ Sfjuare white houses, buikled in deep 
 sand, near !i\- the sea. 
 
 Approachin;,' Kl Arish— passing,' now, in the mid- 
 day heat, o\er rollinj,^ sand, from which, here and 
 tlu're, dr_\-, ,uray Lushes spran.u- ^lur omipanv halted 
 to oliser\e a curious and disijuit'tinij; siirht : a woman 
 in tlii^ht — sdpi)inL,^ like a hare from hush to hush; 
 sto]ipin,L;, exhausted, then venturin.i,' (lesi)eratelv on. 
 Whither she lied, (iod knew, for her face was turned 
 to the very heart of the desert, and theri' she must 
 surely [lerish: there was neither w.ater nor encani])^ 
 ment in that forlorn direction, as we knew. Then' 
 canu' over a neard>y rise, while we deliated, a Sou- 
 dant'se of the i;arrison, riijin^ a catnt'l, whitii he had 
 at the trot, and a Ljraydu-arded old man. will) his 
 loins ,1,'irt up, numin.tj afoot, the hrealh almost t.;one 
 from his cr- akmi; lio.ly At sIl^IU ol the small, llee- 
 
 V) 
 
r, () I X (', [) f ) \V \ 1' ROM j E R i^- s A y, !• M 
 
 inj,' fic,rurc thi'y suvrvod frcni tlir roa.l, hastcn.^d the 
 taltcrin.i: pacr, an,! ])ivsfntly overtook thr fugitive 
 whom tlu' oM ,n;in caught hy the wrist and rou-lily 
 Iiersuailcl to ri'turn. 
 
 " I am her imele," he explained, hut not unkindly; 
 ■'she has no other relati\e, and she has run away 
 from her husliand, to whom I ,i;ave her." 
 
 She was Inn ;. ^irl, a child, over-younj,^ to he mar- 
 ried, it seeme.l. and thou.i^'h her face was in part 
 V( iled and in i)art concealed by ban.i^les, it was ap- 
 parent that she w.is comely, if only with vouth. 
 
 "Has she done a wroni(?" 
 
 '■ It is not that," he replied: "it is !)ecause I guar- 
 anteed her behavior, ami must ii .w restore her or 
 pay the penalty." 
 
 ".My ' usbaml is old," said the ,L;irl, defiantly, 
 " and beats me," 
 
 "What refu.i^e," I asked, ■'ilhl you think to find 
 in the desert hert'about .'" 
 
 She answered, sullenly, like a child, "I was run- 
 niiiij; awaw" 
 
 E\ Arish, to whi' h we came that dav. lay near the 
 sea, pa.t a fruitful, primitivi^ly irri.i^'ated sand plain 
 where .late-p;dms and fi.i,'-trees and sprawlin.s,^ vines 
 t^rew m the saii.l, and where were <,'rcen and (lourish- 
 in- vegetable pa^rhes. It is a citv, beautiful in these 
 I'.n-ts, of many low whit, houses, blindin- in the sun- 
 li.iiht, of streets ankle deep witli sand, of bazars and 
 mos(|ues, of a small military establishment, under 
 the English, a city of eiL;ht thousand inhabitants 
 
 .so 
 
FL ARlSH THi; HALF-WAV CITY OF THE CARAVAN ROUTE 
 
Il'.'l 
 
THE R U X A WAY R R I D E 
 
 (I think) — a seat of justice, at any late; for next 
 nidrnuij,' the runaway wile was taken Ik Ior' the eadi 
 of the district for judgment ' 1 will not ]\\v with 
 my husl)an(l," said she, "exeejit I ha\e niv will in 
 a certain inatter." The cadi asked for an e.\])lana- 
 tion, whereu])on a curious thini; ha])])ened. "' It is 
 my will," said the ,uirl, "that my imele shall j^'ivc his 
 dauj^'hter to my husliand's eldest son, which he has 
 refused to do. Upon these terms I will return to my 
 husf)and, and will continue dutiful." It was then so 
 at,Teed amoni,' them, and the ijrateful cadi dismissed 
 tl;em all. 
 
 They said in the town that the <,nrl loved her 
 husband's son, and had sacrificed herself to his happi- 
 ness; and of the youn.^ man inxjcl words were spoken. 
 
 The foreminded Aboosh must here outlit tor the 
 longer stage, six days of desert riding, to the Suez 
 Canal, where, at Kantara, was a railroad train, 
 Cairo bound. It was with a caravan of self-satisfy- 
 ing proportions that we departed: I was reminded ui 
 a ship leaving some port, a'hundantly crewed and 
 provisioned; anrl, indeed, we were like those going 
 out to the barren sea. There was now a great com- 
 pany of men and beasts: Aboosh, a dragoman of 
 tact and most perceiving consideration, with Taufik, 
 his lieutenant, and that big AH Mahmoud, of whom 
 1 have spoken, who was in almost sheikly authoritv 
 over five cutthroat-appearing muleteers; a cook of 
 engaging accom.plishments, the pock-marked Yusef, 
 
 51 
 
flOIXG DOWN FROM J I- R U S A Iv E M 
 
 '•I 
 
 wi'h ICIi.is, tlir S(T\in.i,'-lMiy; ;i S< ludaiirsi' ( dritoral, 
 tak<n Iroiii the .^arrisun mI' E\ Arisli. whu rmist (tlu'v 
 said) la'.i;iianl or, ill.- wav; Kachid m ji-rusalriii, tliat 
 'KTrlift, and .Mustata, tlu' cntrrtainiiii^r caiiu'l-driwr, 
 with his six -^1. .w^iuolnl lie'astsand liw faiiirldioys — 
 null and l.oys in ihv nuinluT of twi'nt\-, and horsrs, 
 niulrs, ildiikrys, and (.■anifls lo the nunihiT df twcnty- 
 t'lur. l"(.Il(iwin,Lr alon.t,' thf sandy vnxXv of that j^rrat 
 desert, trailing (.\ct the llal saltdn.t t^nis t<i which 
 we eaine, it seenied a <'iinii)any (lis])n)i>(irti( mate to 
 the needs ui two nndstentatimis tra\( Hers; I.ul tlie 
 thnllv Al.MMsli, who had enntraeted with iis, smiled 
 indulgently. saviii;,r, "It is n.ii the halnt nf the 
 dra-(.man t-. wast.' his <lnllars." It luriu.l out, 
 indeed, that this was n, , extiM\'a,L'ant and displavt'ul 
 l)roL,q-ess: our water wa,s sjieiit. . ar i)ni\isi.ins had 
 dwindle.l t.) the narmuvst eonilni-taMe remainder 
 when we eanie to Kantara on llu^ last dav. Short 
 rations, a drop tor a drink, liad hei'ii our portion in 
 the event ol any undue delay. 
 
THE DESERT ROAD 
 
 DI■:^'()^'D EI Ansh, wliere the road departs from 
 i— ' the shnre, llie desert is rolling and sjxirsely 
 bushed: and here is a j^jrewsome ]»lace; for (said the 
 Soudanese as we rode) a youth of the town, returning 
 troin tile sale <it eair.els ni ICgypt, with tin- gold in his 
 belt, had behind a near drift of sand lu'en murdered 
 b\- one whom he had befriended, a lit'douin of beyond 
 the frontier, broken in fortune. There were, indeed, 
 two, for i1k'\- travelled three together, and the deed 
 was aeeom]ihshe<l by arrangement. "Save me!" 
 cried the jjoor youth, staggering under the first blow 
 of the sword, and ran confidently to this Bedouin; 
 but tlu' man ein])loyt'(l his dagger in a way that may 
 not be descnlxd, being most foul and gory, and the 
 youth t'X])ired at his feet. And now, as we rode from 
 this unhaiijiy sjiot, we came ui)on a caravan of dis- 
 tinction- a man of some carriage, clad in silk, riding 
 witli two lioily ser\-ants, a guard and a sccretarw 
 his iMggage-camels trailing behind: and lu' wavered 
 loosel> on th- b.aek of his camel in a fashion mo.st 
 painful and weary. 
 
 53 
 
(io I .\ (, Do W \ 1- ROM I |.; K L'SA |, i; m 
 
 " Mv ('..Ml' tVidids." hv ^vuiiur^l. ■'lunv far is it to 
 VA .\rish'" 
 
 \Vc; told iiiiii tour hours. 
 
 •i'raiSL' Ciod'" said hv; "lor I have lnvii torluiX'd 
 six days on the hack of this iK'ast." 
 
 I UKiuirol of his errand. 
 
 "I am a jikIl''/' lie aiiswcrcil, "come this distance 
 Irom K-ypt to try a ^irscd Hcdouin h.r murder, 
 i'our hours ti. I-:i Arish ' Then, hy Cod!" -,n..re 
 cluiTfully - "we shall trv the Hcdouin this aftcr- 
 nnon and han^; him td-niorrow." 
 
 Beyond the frontier the Hcdouin mi-ht easily 
 ha\e luui-ht himself free with st.-lcn -old; hut liere 
 was I-^n-lish jurisdicti< in 
 
 Riding once, jiast noon, in a lihstcrin.^ j,'lare, wc 
 came uncx])cctcdly uj.on an old man, l)cnt, lean, 
 .■md gray, hut trudging sturdily eastward, ankle 
 dee]) :n the sand, ai»i)eari!!g a lu^liijcss figure in that 
 inimical waste. He w;is afoot, aloiu', clad all in the 
 rags of a ])ilgrim; and that he was ])iously inclined 
 was speedily e\iiK'nt, for no s-joner had he ]>ercei\-ivl 
 our caravan than he remo\cd from the road, spread 
 his ahba in haste, and knelt to reci'.e the ].ray- 
 ers, c(jntinuing t(j how and patter until we halted 
 ahreast. 
 
 "Whither hound ?" said I. 
 
 "To Mecca, khawaia. to i)erform the ceremonies. 
 I am come from l>eyond Egypt, and am helate 
 cause of sickness." 
 
 54 
 
 )e- 
 
T 111: I) i;s i; r t r oa d 
 
 ■■ ll,i\c \-on iiM I'lMT ol' st;ii\-,i(i()i) ;"'* 
 ■■<''"1 is my sust<Mi,nuv, />/,,;,■,•,//„, " I„. .-nisutTcl. 
 "Xcillirr drcni .,t uiM IhmsIs nuv rohhrrs?" 
 "< 'i' "1 IS my shield."' 
 
 ■■ IK IV is a l.-m!y liilKriinaKr/' said I, in pity. 
 ■ <"•<"! is Diy cotnixiuiuii, klhiu.tia, and my tum- 
 lorl." ' •' 
 
 ■' But to die in this wild desert'" 
 "'Idle will ol (ii.d, kli,ih;iui: I am eontent." 
 We rode on, liavm.^ sto,,d, in pitv. to wateh the 
 I'lous pil.unni turn a sand -drift, moving in haste 
 .■•I'ovehisslreiiKth.and prc^.sently- il niav have heen 
 two hours weene..untered, in ;anillv, a redd-earded 
 nu^'hly m;in, iioi yet -n,wn jiast his vouth. wlio m 
 tlus luMt h.id strijiped to his llutterinK^ shirt' a 
 morose, and ,in-ry f.^llnw (ih.niLjht we), now sweatin.i; 
 ■ind out ol Iireath, as with running. He. too. was 
 in Iiaste, it sec^nied but wherc^fore was a mystery,— 
 ;nid heeded us with impatienec- luit we eould not 
 let him p.ass, for he lia.l no .irhic ,,f w;,ier, nor any 
 I'lva.l that we eoul.i .see, and seemed t.. l,e travelling 
 meontmentl_\- to a bitti'r death. 
 
 •■ n;tve you neither food nor water?" I demanded. 
 "Two hours ^jniie." he answered, "did you not 
 l';iss an old man mueh .qiveii to ].ietyand praying'" 
 " f^earing an Ixi^yj.iian water-bottle.'" 
 "The bottle is from Algiers, whenee am I ; but the 
 man is the same, may God reward him with hunger 
 'Ii"-st. and lague' Fny tliree davs, khan-aja, we 
 travelled m Inendship, and he shared all that I had, 
 ^ 55 
 
 II 
 
*". o 1 .\ c, I) n w x F i< () M 1 1; i< IF s \ 1. 1: m 
 
 h,i\iii^' iidllimii liinisi'll. liiit this moinin.i,', uluii I 
 awokr, he li.i.l sii.k'ii ,iw,iy, .iii^l I was di'StTlol, 
 tliic\i-.l (il my ualcr ;m<l lire,.'!, .iii'l left lo du' " 
 
 We 1,'ave llio man luui.l and walcr, urj^iiij:!: him the 
 u liilr to lenicncv. 
 
 "\'<i'ir !hm iRcnee," said Iir, "has sax'cd the hie 
 'if thai 's(,' iriL'iid; hut stih. 1 .y (lod' will 1 |amisli 
 him." 
 
 1 le il(.|iartid, rumiiiij^'. 
 
 'I! 
 
 It scrmcd, somc'tinics, after ivkhi, thai tin cMiT 
 khiiu'.ilii wished the day's ridiii;,,' nvrv; and .Mustafa, 
 the eamci drnrr. wi<c and kindly m:m, WMiild stride 
 smilinj.,']) hy his s irnip. in the way u\' some in.dia'wd 
 reta.iiuT. "I will irll thr klui:.\n,i a mnst ixirjlmt 
 and eni^'a.i^ini,^ slm-)', to rrh('\r his wvarinr.s. if he 
 will hut dei.^n !u lislrii. " iic wiinld hr.'.nn. Where- 
 upon there WduM erowd hear all the mnlelet rs and 
 ehanee tollouers of diu' lurtunes; and .in (irderl\- 
 eara\an W'luld all at nnce turn into a josllin.^ eom- 
 Manv u\ mul( s, dnrd<t'\s. t-amels, and liorsi s, hir tlie 
 moinenl ha\-ini; the will <A their ahslr.uied riders. 
 '"Idiere was oiiee a Suhan." Mustafa i-elated, I rttall 
 — and this was approaehin;.,' Hir-el-.\dh "whu lorn- 
 mandud thai ihere slmuld he no uecupation I'lillciwed 
 after sundown in his eity. 'My city,' said he. 'shall 
 he silent : I will hax'e not so much as a whisper to (lis- 
 tiirli the slei'p of niy people.' And .alter that there 
 w.is no souikI ■ -exeei'l a tapjiini,': .a nu'steriou- ta))- 
 tap-tajipini;, which no serv.ml of llie Sultan could 
 
 5" 
 
 * I 7 
 
THn DKSF-RT ROAD 
 
 loc'ilc < ir I'Xi'lain. Hut tlic Siilt.m tommaiuUMl ih.it 
 till- tuli'nl 'JiMiiM iniithili.iU 1\- 1 • iIisi'MMTcil, situ i- 
 it \\,is ills will. \\v said, to ({(Ci, ■ ,ilc sd llaj^'raiit an 
 • 'lliiiilcr ; aihl ( \ iiif.nlly a pour slio(.'inak(,'r was stir- 
 prisi'd at liis I iliof, aiiil lorlliwilli halfd l)ctori> the 
 Snllaii, to aiKWrr to tile a( cusatioii that he was the 
 most cjisolu/ilunt suliii'tt. it) all thr latid. 
 
 Coitir'' (Tied tlic Siillati. Ill aii^cr, 'is it true 
 that \-oii ate a disol irdicill tcllow, who musl Icjsc his 
 hra.!?' 
 
 "'Il is true,' answered the jioor sltoctiiaker, 'tlial 
 I haM' ihsohi'Ved yotir .Maiest v's commaml,' 
 
 " i5y this candor the Suhati was atnazed. ''riu'ii 
 \'-hy.' !)■' denial! leil. diave you vcnluii'd your life 
 in this nni>ri >lltai ile I'ashion ■'' 
 
 "'Alas'' eried the culprit. 'I musl labor for the 
 one ]>y tii,i;]it and tor the other li\- dav." 
 
 ■"'"he Sultan aski'd lor an exiilanation. 
 
 '"I am the slax'e,' answertd the shoemaker, 'of 
 n rohlier and a crt'diti ^r." 
 
 '"What rohlier, ' demanded the Sultan, 'has 
 esca])ed my law, and what creditor is sf) rniel''' 
 
 ■"The rohlier,' answerei] the shoi'tiiaker, 'is mv 
 dau.iihter, who takes from me l<ir elothini; which she 
 iii'eds not; and the creditor,' said he, 'is mv son, 
 to whose future I am in ijrievous debt, since I have 
 lathireil him, and owe him, (j<m1 knows, what he 
 may achieve.' 
 
 " " \'our ilau^hter,' said the Sultan, i)k>ased with 
 tile answer, ' I will ;;ive to a husband, your son I will 
 
 57 
 
'.'/ 
 
 jin.. 
 
 r. n ixr. do \\ x fro m j e r u s a l e m 
 
 lake into my scrvicv; and will \(,u Mien cnnliinir Id 
 dcsnitt' int •'■" 
 
 " ' NVwrinoiv/ answiTc! the sh. Kinakrr." 
 
 I thankt'd Mustafa tor tiic stiii\'. 
 
 "Lal^or in \our srr\icT, /.7;.;,\\//</," lie ansuvrcd, 
 sinilin.t,', "is like ixsl " 
 
 Thc'Si' were talcs, t(ild in ancit^nt fashion — as to the 
 CantcTl.ury ])il.m-iins, — to ri'liesv tin- trdnini of 
 travi'll-nc,' ahorse. And many a tale was told; but 
 of all that the elder kluru'uiii could t,'i\(,' m return, 
 none so deli.i^dUed our followers as the tales of the 
 camel trader from Ain el-Kautii -that cunnini; ras- 
 cal!— with whom I had fallen in at Damascus and 
 concerning whom I shall now relate what l.efell. 
 
xr 
 
 THE CAMEI. -TRADER 
 
 FT was a fortunate cncountrr of a windy ni,c;ht at 
 1 the khan <if thr canU'l-ilriMTS -- tiiat with the 
 canicl-tradcr fnun Aiii el-Kautn, Damasc s was in- 
 doors -in the coffee-houses and khans and .shuttered 
 dwelhn,u;s— or timidly al.road. Now were the nifjhts 
 befort' tlie |)il<4riinai:.'; outeasts and thieves, come 
 troni the mountains and lU'arer deserts, hirkcd in 
 the dark iiazars, slinkin,:^ in from the allevs. Ap- 
 prentices, left to lock the stalls, lielated artisans and 
 shojikeepiTS, voun.u sparks of the town, honest foot- 
 passen<;ers of i'ver\- condition, made haste and wisely 
 kept to the wall. Beyond the security and com- 
 fortable i^dow of the Suk .Mi I'asha a woman was on 
 her knees, in the darknt'ss of the ass-marker, wail- 
 in.i;: '' Vnv God's sake, ,t,M\-e me bread! The i;rain- 
 merchants haw strii)])ed tlu' i..)ov_ curse them! A 
 nuiallik, men, for bread. In the name of God, f;ive!" 
 .\ fool with a tahl, Iicatinjj; on that little drum an 
 accompaniment to a foolish soul;, ran joyously past. 
 1 wo men, wrajipcd from the weatluT in j^reat cloaks, 
 came stridinj: down, <,'igantic in the shadows, 
 swords dragging. Tney ])aused by the beggar; 
 
 i 
 
•'•'/ 
 
 
 < ■ " 1 .\ ( ; 1 J U W X F R U M j !•: K U S A I, !•; M 
 
 havinj,' cursed aii-l liclaliorcil thr do-s that tn uMrd 
 tlu'iii, they Wfiit (.11. Tlu' w. .man was Kll al-nic 
 a,L',a.!ii, sli!! raisiiiL: Iht doleful el. din u'. 
 
 AcTMSs the des(Tt('(l sijuarc, in a hazar of llu' podr, 
 a iiall-wittid \riid(ir di' shri'])'s tails waslmddK'd . ,\-ct 
 a cliarioal fin. patiently exjieetini: 'ale eustoniers as 
 a L,Mt't fn.tii Cl.id. The tatters <.; a rotted eanojiy 
 swayiii.t; in the wind with a trailin.i; vini> shut out the 
 clear li-ht of the stars. It was luTe, hut somi'what 
 past the rv<] li-ht of the half-wit's tire, that the Inter- 
 preter stunil.Ie<l o\er a litter of ])ups sound asleep 
 in the retuse. Starlin,-^' away from the ytlp and 
 ,1,'rowl, lu' unhaj.pily ehaneed to tread on a eripj.led 
 I"'\-, who iiad eurled up hv the wall. We appease<l 
 the oui -v; liut to isea])e the confusion, whieh in- 
 stantly hei^'ati to gather, must dodi^-e into a windiu'^ 
 alley— a strip <if velvet sky ahove, puddles of yester- 
 day's niiii underloot; ilu' walls lu-h, l.lank, ajiproaeh- 
 m- I overhead ; the rloors all shut and liarre<l. Present- 
 ly, as we went with caution over the shppery stones, 
 a ra-U'ed /,-//,;/; hrushe.l past. Then' issued then 
 from the khan of the came]-<lrivers a Mack Hedouin, 
 his kajjiyvh and ./i,',;/ and <;/'/>,; all awry, who lie-an to 
 raise a -n-at elamor at the heels of the /V/A///, he- 
 seeehin.i,' him by Co,! to return and l.e a witness to 
 the truth of his eonteiuion, for he was heini: rohlied 
 I'V a eanie! (lri\-er from Hai^hdad. 
 
 L''d hy these misehaiiees, we followt'd to the staMe- 
 V'anl of the khan, incidents of a nii^nd, frow/.v. 
 Kra\ely enwrapped -n.up, in the midst of which the 
 
 f)0 
 
THE CAM EL- TRADER 
 
 J.lLih and the Mack Bcchniin, <lisi\'.^ardin.t,' the in- 
 ti-i';i(in, li.cl alrrady oivupird llu" caiiu'l-driwr in a 
 lashion anKi/:in<,^iy noisy fnr tln' ..evasion of llir 
 disjnitc — the matter of a cracked coin. Here was 
 a situation of much promise, as it seemed: a trade 
 and a craek.'d />cs7(/;7,', a /,■//,;/;, a I.lack Bedouin, and a 
 I'arnehchiee' '"n.m Ba.ijlida.l, fast apim.achin},^ the 
 point of >.x])losion. They would presently take (I 
 laiu'ied) eitlier to a sava.qely brutal stal,liinj^ or to 
 Some maidenl> slaj.pini;— tliere was no tellinj,' which. 
 Ihit tluTc was no climax of the sort: tlie keejvr of 
 the khan, inopportunely ajjpearin.i; at the moment — 
 a oiie-eyi'd, hoM:--nosc(l man, lean to the hones — put 
 •'" '"'1 1" the .lispute l>y fenn'iouslv cjeilini,' the 
 tliree ami l.arrin.L^ the dowr. What hapjuiied in the 
 .illey I (1(, n..t know, for I was fortunately not ejected: 
 hi;t within, in the c mrse' of a hwly .jiseussion of the 
 merits ot the ease, I made the en,L,'a,i;in,n^ acfjuaint- 
 ance of the pious camel-trader from Ain el-Kaum, 
 with whom, shortly, I was not only drinking eoflee 
 m the crazy l)ai..'n\- ahoxe the slahle-yard, hut en- 
 j"yin,t,' with him, as he recited it, the -are ilavur of 
 his rascality. 
 
 This was Ahdulldi, 
 
 " Listen, /v7/,Ki •<//■,;" said he, leaning into the candle- 
 
 h.Uht. his kan Lrown faci' drawn with the intensity 
 
 t his con\-iction, "and 1 will tell you this: Let the 
 
 fool ,uo to the ass for help in a eaniel trade. P.y the 
 
 Prophet, there is no uiereyl C;imel fcjr caniel'" 
 
 ()i 
 
(i O I \ r. D W X FRO M J E R U S A L E M 
 
 lie proceoK'd. tappni.t,' niv skvw with tlu^ limna- 
 stained tip of a slender lorelin.i^iT. " h is a sickness. 
 By the Murcifui! there is no cure onee it t^ikes you' 
 I have known a man to ,^ive Ins sister to hoot in trade 
 lor a l.laek eamel l.red at i'l jrnsi; and I invsrh' was 
 tempted to leave Hassan, my son, as h.ostas^v (nr 
 the payment of four hundred piastres I laeked "in thc> 
 trade for a Nejd l)east on the Ba^Iulad route. It 
 was not re(iuire<l. (iod and the Proi)het hefnendin- 
 tortheman wasa fool; l„u I love.I thatcame!, and tlu' 
 will was witli me. I was tlien," he he-an. "seven 
 days on th.e road from Ra-h<]ad, leadin.<,' a lazy 
 Turkestan l)east, s(|uare as a bo.x, haired Hke a hj- 
 .Roatof the l.ehanon hills, with a neck like the Proph- 
 et's tree you may see in the Suk es-Surujiveh. 
 Not a hundred rotclsim the beast's back, .vith Hassan, 
 my son, a feather's wei.t^'ht more; and yet she tiroancl 
 at the loa.iin.^ like ,-. starved wood-carrier of the 
 town, f^ut, by the i^vucv of God. "-with a little 
 shrujT of resignation—" I came with my camel, with 
 Hassan, my son, and with one hundred jjiastres in 
 my pocket, to a camel-bree.lin.L,' tribe (mm the 
 south, encamped by the road, and there-ah, klu- 
 
 The tab.e was tapped to rlcmand attention. 
 
 "There, ah, kliai.M,,,!'- sighed the trader, gently 
 with a reminiscent Ker of delight, " I sawa camel that' 
 was f,etter than my camel ; and I loved that camel, 
 and could g(j no step lu^voiid it." 
 
 I asked for the story of the trade. 
 
 (>2 
 
TH !• (A M !•: L-T R A I) E R 
 
 In lilt' silriui' some cMiiii'l-.lriwr of the pilji^rims, 
 hall asloe]! on a lieaj) of nical-lias^'s in the stal)k'-\-anl 
 Ih'1(i\v, Im',^;;,,, insinj,', inii;!oriii,- liis LU'sscd .-^Ik-canH'!, 
 in a lack-inlciTst, nasal drawl, to i\'nicnil)fr the drwy 
 ^rass lic'vond, an<l \>v stroni,' on llu' niaivli, ihal the- 
 tonil. of thr Projihel, the Jloly .M(«(|ue itself, might 
 surel\- Ik- \-isiteil. 
 
 "A tlea hop in his throat!" growled the trader. 
 
 The singer fell aslee]>. 
 
 J 
 
XII 
 
 TIM: |)K\'ICK or AliDri.I.AH 
 
 " J^ll .\\V .Vi.\," till' sliiry Nwnt (in, "I u.is iimictcd 
 **- wilh wilniinitidii. It is t;H' truth. I knew that I 
 Tiuist iK'\'isi.' a \\a\' <il ])iissi'ssin.u tlir (."aiiiil tliat was 
 l>rt tiT than \\^\• canirl, nr ]'f!-'sli, :\\\A 1 t< ilil tlic < AvruT 
 that I liail I'ahcii in l^w witli th.c licast. 
 
 '"("nine'" '<ai'l I; 'let u^ trailc \'iiiir can.cl I'nr 
 niinc, aU'l 1 \\:11 paN' llir ihHrrcncT, h ir I l(p\i- y<>iir 
 c'a!iu-l nil «ri.' than ni\' < )\vn." 
 
 "'hiiw in',- wil'i . if \(iii wilh' ht' answcri'il, 'Imt 
 haw ni\' ih'.L,' an'l niv canirl, lor I am a jealous man. 
 Wh'Ti- is yiiur canu'l '' 
 
 " Thrii 1 askcii him : 
 
 "'Hv .\llah' whcrr is the jirofit iii cxhihitini,' my 
 (\inu-l i! \'(iu will nut jiart with Vdurs.'" 
 
 "'I>\- .\llah!' saiil he, ' wr slmnM spruil time like 
 tnols. Is viiiir t'.anicl near at haml .' ' 
 
 "'It is n' 1 m:il tcr,' s,:i'l I, 't'lr I haw no nmul to 
 show her.' 
 
 " Then 1 led him \n m • camd. 
 
 " ' 1 1 is a waste lA time.' said he, ' tn h " ik twiee at 
 a heast t r' itn Turkestan.' 
 
 "Hut he e.xamiueil my camel; an<1 I nhserwd, 
 
 b4 
 
1 
 
T II i; I) i: V ic !■: o i- .\ \>, d u l i. a ii 
 
 hlh'.n'iihi. tliiit lie i.ii! 1 {i< (lis(M\(T ;i suit tnKJMii 
 in llir Icit liiivl lev;, and I was linjicliil. lor h, mciiicI 
 'il^*' ■' t""I. I'>'it lie si'driiid my caiiit I, alter all. a^k- 
 in;.,' wliat \\v sIp mjil .|<i with a li,,ir>-. iimim lui n I n ,d 
 row. uiiicli ini,L;ht rlinih iiiotnitaiii.-, iikr a '^'nal, l"it 
 was iMt i'i|iia! t<. a day's journey at inidsuininiT in 
 the dt-scrt. Il was true, all thai he said, and tlnTe 
 was Ihc soft, tendon besides, \n addition to an e\ il 
 teinjaT, and a iratherini; inider the sJKnilder; hut lln' 
 words wounded iiie, and ( knew then thai I should 
 haw the man's eaniel, liy the 1,'raee of I'lod, it' only 
 lo teach him the \-alue of m\- own. 
 
 "I was humlile, A//.;;, ',//,;, and fojldwvd them.m to 
 his tent, ]. raying- that the la\or , ,t ih( I'roplul 
 nii,s.,dil disclose a irick wuh uhieh J could peisuade 
 him. 
 
 " ■ I am a compassionate man,' said he, 'and I w ill 
 take pity. (ii\-e me yoiu' licast .and ti\e hundred 
 jiiastrcs and the thm,i^' is doiu'. \W Allah, and .Mo- 
 hammed the Prophet of Allah' it is m\- last, word.' 
 
 '"It is a reasonahU- demand.' I answered; 'hut I 
 haw iio .iiore than one h.imdred pi.astres m the world. 
 I will Uikv yoin- camel, lea\in,i; Hassan, my son, as 
 security tor the ]>a\-ment of the l.,al;inct\"' 
 
 The camel-trader leaned .'^ain into the eandle- 
 li.niit, his lonj.; arm at full leii-th. his liui^'ers stilfeiu'd 
 in the Heilotiin f.ashion: the whole tiL,nire tt'use. 
 
 " By the ^rrace of Cod," said he, ' the s.acritiee was 
 not re(|uired' A'/;,;;. ■,//,;,•' I,,, whispered, with a 
 cunning droop of the eye and twitch of the lij., 
 
 05 
 
(K) 1 \ C, Do W X I- KO M I i: K V S A I. !■ M 
 
 "there is a jiri'wrli: Tk' \'>uv d'lj; or jiay the btraii- 
 i,'(r." 
 
 The ,q)]iliratinn was unscurf. 
 •■ W.H.ih '" \\r (Mntnuic'l, " it is the tnitli. Listen 
 It is a law 1 1| liic lU'il'Hiins that tlic duu; wlinh liitt'S 
 a stranircr shall I'c killnl. There is more: it is rc- 
 (|uircil that tln' (Aviicr n\ tlu' do.^' ^hall reward the 
 straiij^'er t^r this iiiistreatnieiit . lasleii''" lie i)r()- 
 ceeiled, a little treniolci (if i<i\-. . exeiteiiieiit ill his 
 \(,ice. " lU- the urat'e of ("niij. I iiliser\a'd that, the 
 owner ol till' t-aiiiel that was lietter than my eamel 
 lia^l liieii iniwise with the do.i; that he lo\i'd : and I 
 knew ij-.en that llu' trade was delivered into my 
 liamls. tliou'^h I had luit a hair\' 'I'urkestan beast liy 
 the halter and one huniired piastres in my pocket. 
 " d lassan,' I saiil lo !ii\- son, 'the I'luiihet. is with 
 ns. ()liserve that the man's doj^r is loose. Take a 
 lesson from what I do. 
 
 "Then, khiiwijii. when the master's back was 
 turned I instilteil the do_y with .ill my im.i^^ht, and llic 
 ijoL,^ w,is nnalile to withstaiiil the timpl.ilion ot my 
 person, whieh 1 had placed within liis reach 1 was 
 sorelv bitten in the le.^. so tjiat my h\uins was torn 
 and Mo iilv; Imt this 1 bore with resi;4nation by the 
 power of tlie Prophet ai;d of (iod. for the man's 
 t'.nnel was mine." 
 
 •" I would not take one thousand piastres for my 
 do'^',' cried he. 'Come'' he besought, 'conci'al this 
 Ihint: from the sheik; ,umvi' me one hundred jiiastres 
 and your camel, and take my beasl.' 
 
 66 
 
T 11 L 1) i: V !(• i: () 1 A 15 1) U I. LA 11 
 
 " I aiiswrrcil : 
 
 " ' ll \\i ml I lc.i\ <■ nif luniiiliss.' 
 
 "'('.lliul Inr r.illlcl, lliiil,' s.ii'l 111', 'allil s.iv tin 
 
 t)lllT-|'.' 
 
 " I ;ins\vrrcil : 
 
 " ' 1 ;ini tired ol walking ' 
 
 " ' H\- Allah!' sail] lir. I lii\c nu' i\>i^: take yinir 
 raiiU'l aiii] my eaiiicl ami ijciiai-l.' 
 
 " 1 ans\vcrc'<l : 
 
 "'It is tnu' thai von low votir iIhl^; hut wiiM will 
 |)av tile thous.iHil ])iastrfs the slu-ik will awanl nir 
 tor the ilaiiia.i,^' your ilo^ liastlMiic.'' 
 
 " ' W'dltlh !' (.rir'i lie. ■ lea\"e llle al least 'le 'llist on 
 iii\' leet ; take one liiiiiilri'i! piastres ami iHi^foiie,' 
 
 " 1 answefeil ; 
 
 "'I an. a eomjiassionate' man, tliric luiuilre'l will 
 be sullieieiit.' 
 
 "And 1 took two luimlred ]iiastres, A7;.?a'(7M, and 
 his camel and my eaniel, and jouriU'Ved on lowanl 
 Damascus, witli Hassan, my son, who profiled niueli 
 hv the cx])erience." 
 
 The camel-trader laiiahcd, with liis little eyes 
 jHickered iij), his li])s drawn away, so thai his IonL,^ 
 yclluw teeth shunc in tlu' candledight. 
 
 
MICROCOPY RESOLUTION TEST CHART 
 
 ANSI and ISO TEST CHART '-.c 2. 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 128 
 
 132 
 
 %ii 
 
 I. 1^ 
 
 | 2_2 
 2.0 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.6 
 
 ^ .APPLIED ir '~E Inc 
 
 716) *e2 0300 ' Phone 
 
. \ 
 
 XIII 
 
 THK TAi.i': OF -niic \i:i;i)i.i; axd thread 
 
 Tins caiiirl-lrailin.L,' Alxlullali \\->m Ain rl-K;mm, 
 in the tail's ni uhi ise i-asi.'alil\- ( nir fdlowvrs (Hi 
 tlu' ilcsrrt rii;i(l c]cli;_;]iteil — this s])an', ])irrin;^% cun- 
 iiiii-- l\-Il(i\v in a l.|-i.\vn iil'lm fallin.L,' t'nun his slioul- 
 iKrs in yciuTuns fulls, with a /vW/,7iv/; nf white silk 
 shailiiwiiiL; his lacr an'l kr]it in pku'r with twn rnjn's 
 (if canirl's liair-t!)is I'cMlMuin IkuI liamls i'a[i,iiilt' 
 lit an mi'ilinnal i)rrf( irnianci' aniazini,' tn lichnM, 
 TliLV wi IT incT(.ilil ily ^^arrnlims; there was tki anil to 
 their I'nninn^ i m ; they were ne-.er at a loss; they 
 eh.attered away with oily ease: creatiii"^^ m > hoi-i'ili mi, 
 alwa\s entertaining^ ami I'lei^ant anil talkatiw to 
 
 ])Ur]ii iSe. 
 
 They were sleiiiler, loni^-fins^ii-eil, iKlicattlv form- 
 ed ami tinteil hands, li])|ied with smimtli liille nails: 
 shiiwinu;- no niirk whatsoe\-er, neither wrinkle m ir 
 stain, 1 if what is elsewhere e;illed work, thouL^h. they 
 ha.d diiulilless been hi nn iral il\" industrinus mi nian\- 
 a dark, halterdi » isiiiLj, eaniel-thie\-in^ ni^ht. It was 
 as thou.^h they existed in friendly indejiendenei' of 
 Alidullali— softly t'irierij;ini,r from the sleeves of the 
 iihha when the outlook wa-- threatcnini,', flvinii; into 
 
tali; ()i- Till'; x i; i: I) L !•; .\ x n tiirkad 
 
 \i<'lrnl acti'iii ;,l cnlical niiiiiicms. At any ra(c>, 
 lliry Wfiv iK'WT idle; ilu\- u\tc c'< .iilinu' .nsly in 
 attituiks, (irsiijiU'il with inslaiU an.) accurate L,'rnius 
 to illustrate and impress. 
 
 The clever iiKakery (.1 Alidullairs sister, win. so 
 taseiiialed the owiur i if a hii^'h-hred eaiiiel ( ,i tlu 
 Israij;a!i strain that, an < iutr;.L':enus trade was in'r- 
 I)etrated aeainst Iiini, was oniwyrd iint sm mueli 
 l!\- Alidullah's edijuettisli accent, 1 .)• tile llasli of his 
 eye, daniii,i,r with di'a.lly intention frnn, ihr shadow 
 'if his kitfiiych, as 1 .y th<- yieldin-, Io\-e-lorn ilrspair 
 with which !ns h.aid fr!l ilnltcrin;/ upo,, his hrart, 
 and there rcjioscd, exhausted Lut ecstatic. \or m 
 tlu tale of the canu 1 with the -lass c\-es, which he 
 told l.c'fore we left him, was his coiUeinpt for the 
 poor licast expressed in au\- wa\- so tlioiou^hly as bv 
 the lilt of ihaL seif-s;une I land, palni upward, liidditi;,; 
 the thitiL; lu'^oni' fnnri nieinorw 
 
 Tlu^ hands were liusv indeed in supjiort , ,f the 
 I'liiLjue, until the ton;^nie was th.rou^li witli tlir talc; 
 and then thev cre]tt (piietly hack into the slce\es 
 "I the aJ-fhi. ',ea\in,L: nothini^ iii the candlcdi,^'lit l-ut 
 the trader's dark. Mack l>eardrd face, lean to the 
 point of cniaci-ition, (lrlic-atel\- wrinklc<l ahotit th.e 
 little lilack e\('s liy past sunliiiht, tin- loni;, \-ellow, 
 ratdike teeth now disclosed liv a divilish sort of 
 
 " KliiVi'ttiii," s.iid Alidnllah, procccdiTiL; now to 
 rclatL' the ex]icricnce of tdic necdlr and thread, "the 
 
 69 
 
( ; o I \ f ; DO w x i' i< o m i e r u sal i-: m 
 
 Im 
 
 I'l'l'iuiiis ha\-c :) provn-h: I winL to haul ami was 
 hiiiiu il." 
 
 lie lau.^lu'il a Utile, rcminisci'ntly, as he arrrpte-d 
 
 a c-iL^arrtti', tappiiiL; niy haii'l In iivhcatt.' his ixadiiU'SS 
 
 ti I kiss it, Imt wisely sa\iii,L; iiic the einharrassnient. 
 
 "Listc'iil" said he. "By Allah'" he s\V()r\ ac- 
 
 CDi-din.ij to his custom, "I speak the truth." 
 
 Ahdu'lah's hands emerged fnun the seclusion of 
 his slee\'es to coimneiid his words. 
 
 "CoiiiiiiM^ t,, Damascus with camels lor sale to the 
 pil.^rims," said he, "as I am now come, hut then fi-om 
 the north and now iiMin the "asl, I met two camels 
 at a \-iil,a,L;c l,y the wa\-, and lo\ed them. 1 con- 
 sidered those t'aniels," he continued, a fniL^er touch- 
 in,i,' m\- ski'\e in a wa\- of the laintest, liut yet some- 
 how more impressix'ely than h.xl the man ,L,'ripped m\- 
 wrist —" I considered thost' camels, sa<Mled with new 
 cloth, sha\-c<l and harnessdl. standini,^ in the city 
 market three days lief'orc the pilirrima^'c, when cam- 
 els arc l.ou^ht foolishly l.y the ;m.\ious, and I loved 
 them more th;m ever. The' owner was. I,v the uracc 
 ot (iod, a fool, a Wood-seller, who cut tVom the hills 
 and sold hy wei-lit in the market, takin- from the 
 backs of his Leasts. There is a proverL : A foo] suc- 
 (■(V<ls m his own house, not in trade; and the owner 
 oi the c.imt'ls was ,i man of that sort. 
 
 "' Hut," said this wood-seller, l need mv two camels; 
 how shall I carry woo,] to Dam.iscus without them:'' 
 '"I^ '^ true," I answrred, 'that vou need vour 
 camels; let us not buy and sell, Lut trade, lest some 
 
 70 
 
TAl. !• (Ji- 
 
 ll i: X El.DLi: A.\ [) TIIRi: A !) 
 
 (hima.Lic hcdniK- you. I haw hri\',' sai<l 1, 'a sijlnnli'l 
 beast, Willi wlneii I iK'silalc V> part, but must, bc- 
 cu'isc I low your camels; ami 1 will trade hi;n, but 
 not easily, because I luwd hmi well In'tore 1 canie io 
 this place and lell in Iii\-e with viur beasts.' 
 
 "'I will ncit trade two camels for .ine,' said he, 
 'ewn il the oiu' is an ameer's lliclfil. because one 
 camel would makt' my business unprolitable. I am 
 three days' journey fn.m Damascus, and must have 
 two camels or turn wt'aver.' 
 
 Vou are a wise nian,' said I, 'and will ctrtainK- 
 i^et the ad\-anta,L;e of me; but st'll I will risk the loss, 
 and trade with you, for ailmiration has overcome me. 
 I will i^'ive you my camel,' said 1, 'for t!ie choiee of 
 your two, if you !_;ive me rwo hundred piastres to 
 b'">t. If I did not low your camels like a fool 1 
 should not do it.' 
 
 '"1 will never,' said he, '.^nvc you two hundred 
 piastres to Ixiot; but you mav take vour choice, if 
 you will, so that 1 may understand which of my 
 camels is the better. I am a w iod-c:utter without 
 two hundred ])iastres to my name, and 1 haw but 
 now taken my sister';: ;ister-indaw and fwc c'.iildren 
 to keep, for the man was a fool, and permitted him- 
 self to be murdered by an enemy in .Mesopotamia, 
 and the murderer, by God! paid no more than an 
 En^'lish pound to cscajie.' 
 
 Poor man!' said I : ' let me examine ve'ur camels, 
 that you may know which is the better and which 
 the Worse.'" 
 
 71 
 
 )l 
 
XIV 
 
 CA.MlCi. lOK C.\.Mi;i. 
 
 AUDULL.MI ka.u,) louanl ,nc u,tl, ;,„ „„|„isi- 
 r^livv, i.anlcnii- l.uK' siiiil.. -Tlu /J/,/aw/,/ is 
 uiSL'," said hr, uilh a nHjiKltish llirt <>i thcliainl- 
 ••kL hun ansuvr nv llns: I)„l I ull the- man the' 
 truth or a lie?" 
 
 -Of omrse." I ansuvrnl, nmsl hcarlilv, -ycu lied 
 hkr a ihicf!" 
 
 " X<)t S(i," he protested; "it was the truth." 
 
 " Wherefi )!•(.'? " 
 
 Tn exj.ri'ss the ainazi'ineut tn which lie had keen 
 moved ky my simpheity, Aliduhah, in tlie l5edouin 
 t.ishion, ].ut the thuml, and iorefin-er of his ri^ht 
 han.i together, spreach-ny tlie other fin^'ers, ;md 
 cjacukitin- "Tst, tst. tst!" slowly raisclhis hand, 
 the while hftin- his eyes to hea\ en. " But, indeed,'' 
 said he, at last, "the kJuvu'aja is ine.xperieneed in 
 trade. [ wouM tliat I mi.^ht exchani^e camels witli 
 him as with the wo(„l-cutter. I told the truth to 
 mislead the man. No lie is so useful in trade as the 
 truth ap!)earint,' as a lie. 
 
 "■Trade the red camel.' I saiM; 'kut if you know 
 
 akout camels, keep the klaek, for it is a nu'e Least.' 
 
 "And n(nv, khaz.'aja, as I had foreseen," Akdullah 
 
C A M I'. L !■ O R C A M E L 
 
 mnliniK'd, in a t'unnitii; uliispLT, " thu man, lieinL; a 
 I'nol in 1m\\.' with liis L-uniiiiiL;, llimi^liL I had lird; 
 and lu' wmild n^i iraiir ihc nd i-arncl, whicli was thr 
 worsr, l)uL nuisl part with llu' Idack, uhirh was tlu 
 canu'l (if my heart's dcsirr. 
 
 "'The' rrd canii-l 1 Ihxt,' said hi-, 'Imt the Muk 
 tnmlik'S mc, and I will l)ari4ain witliy<iu. Conirl'said 
 he; ' k'ad me to ynur camels tliat we may make terms.' 
 
 "I thiiu;^'ht the man a simpk'ton, and freely led 
 l;iin ti) mv camels, sus])et'tinj,f no ■^niile, hut wnuld 
 tint traile mitil a ni;-;ht had jiassed; and when he had 
 de])arted, khir.i^'iiia" — leanin.L( close to impart the 
 t'levenn"ss -"bearing,' iii mind tin' future of Hassan, 
 lu'' Son, 1 planned to lame the Mack camel that 1 
 loved." 
 
 The flare of th(^ match with which Alulullah touch- 
 ed his citj;arctte illuminated a depth of .self-satistied 
 cunninj^. 
 
 "That m"j.,^ht," saiil he, "I thrust a needle in the 
 sole of the black camel's font, choosini:!; the Mack 
 from the red in the dark by my knowledge of the hind 
 leL;s of both, for the red was knock-kneed — thrust the 
 neeilK' deep, khifukiiii, and closed and dusted the littli' 
 hole, so that it couM not lu' detected. The di'vicc 
 was successful; in the mornini^ the man's camel was 
 lame; but so, l)y Allah! was mine. It is the truth, 
 by (lod and Mohammed the Messen,i.;er of (lod! My 
 camel was lame! When I called to him to rise I saw 
 that he favored the left fore foot. A,Lfain and ai'ain, 
 kli'i7i\ij,i — down and u]) airain; but always with the 
 
 13 
 
GUIXG DOWX FROM J 1-; R T S A L I- M 
 
 same result : myr.-.ni.I ha.l ,.;unc l;,t,K- ,„ Hu' ni-lit 
 '■■'"' ''''■' "' "" ^■•'''■'' '■' '",., l.,„n;,l as 1 was tu J);!- 
 imscus with raincIslMrsal.i,, thr pil.^rnns. 
 
 "•CM,ur'' I sai.l t.. tlR. nwncTMi tlK-hlackcamd. 
 ict us har-aii! Inr vmui- hcast.' 
 '"It wouLl uvWx:] l,r i„„,r l)arc:ainin-,' he an- 
 swvnal, 'tor „,y eaiuel has o,„U' laiur; hut nwvnhv- 
 I''^sl willlra.lr alamrcamdlnra lam- c:nnv\ ' 
 
 "Thru I kurw that the man had hmn.l mv eamd 
 because he knew that inv camel was lame; an-l I k-ft 
 him, an.l I discnvered tlu- threa-l wh.eh he ha-l tie-l 
 ti-htly al.Mut tlu' left Inre le- n{ mv eamel near the 
 sliMuMer, an.l I eut tlu^ thread an.l reste.l the heast, 
 and Ini him out In tra. K'. 
 
 '■'Bv Allali!' cried the man, when he saw my 
 camel suun.l up.-n his iVet, ' vou have tlie evil eyj 
 and have lamed my camel. I will han- a necklace of 
 Mue heads about his neck to cuh' him.' 
 
 " But on the third day, there bein^ no xirtue in the 
 beads, he he--u! me in the -lame .^l' God to tra<le with 
 bim, lest he I.e. k.ft with one camel to ca-rv on an un- 
 pr-'litable business; and I traded, to save the man 
 ir.'m turnin- weav.r, and with Hassan, mv son, I 
 let I that j.lace on my way to Damascus, with two 
 bund.red i.iastres in my pocket and a new camel of 
 price lor sale to the pil-rims, which was n'Stored 
 when I drew the needle from his f, ,ot and washed the 
 wound with a ])reparation which is nn- secret." 
 
 This much, for the present, of Abdullah iVo,n Ain 
 I'bk'aum. 
 
 74 
 
XV 
 
 Tin; or ST n|- mi;m 
 
 NEAR by the Wfll nf Mazaar, io which we cami\ 
 Uvn (hivs luA-niiil Ivl Afish, is a iiiflaiich' ily 
 luiiil), now in ilcca}', tuinl )Iiii;j, in<K'cil, v.) tin.' \v\c\ <>( 
 iht' sami whicli intinilcly (-■ncunipassi-s it. It is r\cn 
 (lcci)lv isnlatol in the tni'ist nf this far ilrsMlatc [ilace 
 — itsrU' in every part a waste and is( il.itii ni. With 
 tile sun fallen Iichiml ij;ra\- cjnuils, the east tliiek 
 with shadows, a siihr\' wind hlowinL; up, the sand 
 stirrin,u uneasily, lu-re is, indeed, a nei^^hhorhoi «1 of 
 L^looin and ghostly fears. The dome is orokt-'U, a 
 wall is fallen down, the Mocks are scattered and half- 
 huried, sand lias drifted in through the gn'at ga]), 
 and the wind, entering at will, flutters the poor holv 
 shreds which the fingers of the pious have knotted 
 to upright sticks in the ])erfornianee of some cere- 
 mony. Ruined, forsaken, and all, still one mav 
 fancy that once there dwelt at this t<iml) a dex'out 
 kee])er, thriving u;ion th(.> gifts of jiilgritns on the 
 way to Mecca, dispensing charms and blessings in 
 return: this long ago, when the road was ])opulouslv 
 travelled by the rich and trulv pious — not by beg- 
 garly wanderers afoot, as te-day. 
 
 75 
 
 M 
 
<''>i.\(; !)o\v.\ I ROM j!:Rus.\Lr:.M 
 
 N" n.,l,,ui„ ,,t thrs.- u-i.!. ,,:,rts c-,,n uuuu thr 
 anc'unt uhusr Imlin.ss is lurr (■.„,„„.■„,. .niu.l and 
 ni.-nh- valuaMf to tlir -mrratiuii . .f this ,lay. 
 
 "'•"",^' a.uo." iluy say, '•thrn^ livr^l a 'virtu-uis 
 •"•"•• '■"■'> •" I"<ty ;ni.i ;;,„„! .K,.,ls. uIlMSr l„.,u.s li,. 
 
 un.Kr tins holy I,,,,,!., j. I o m,,, any for the l.o.us 
 
 <>t lis." 
 
 litre thuvlore the Ijolwuins have their -raveyanl. 
 
 There wen- many mean -raws, all aliand.^ned an.l 
 .Ur-'c-eless, It seenu.l at lir.t, hut vet ,-iirectionatelv 
 niarke,! with stones an.l little stieks -so man v -rave's 
 that walkin- westwanl I ,li,l not pass iHA-oncl'them 
 nor eouM determine where was the remotest I 
 stumMol oxer a hone -n,. more than the ihr^di hone 
 liai'i'ily, of somr siek .■anu I, deserted, whieh had' 
 wandered to this place and lallen to die. Th.' sand 
 I'HVVer moviiu; in re,sp(,nse to tJu- wind, ha-l lire 
 gathered and liad there departed: here twice cover- 
 in- there exp,.sin- the white hones of men. Upon 
 the ,t,^rave within tlie tomh were laid offerin-s of raid's 
 and heads and coj.per coins (the inhahitrmts of th^is 
 dry desert hein- ,,f the earth's most wretched) ; and 
 I recall that two crossed sticks were set ahove' it— 
 a Christiaa syni])ol marvellously out of place hut 
 left undisturhed ! S.mietimes the hereaved dug near 
 tlu- t.'mh to have the .lead within the shadow of its 
 sanctity, whatever hones must ])e .listurhed; an.l 
 sately near hy was a new grave-^that of a youn- 
 girl, whut=e coarse hlue g,,wn lay there njtting in the 
 
 7^' 
 
),•' 
 
TH I-: nUST OF M K \ 
 
 weather, accf)nlnii; In the custom, with siuli incaii 
 treasures as a si-iMp cit ])iiik riM)()i\ — where ^ot, Goil 
 kriDWs! — and a luikl.Kr oi ;_;l.iss heads. The eoins 
 with whii'h she had dri'uniti'd hiT head-dress and 
 employrd in (.Minutry were still .iitathcd. 1 wnn- 
 (KTe<l thai. III) nivc'tiDiis lie.tJKar — "t' wlimn many 
 wander past alone — had slok'n them. Tl'rre was, 
 too, I recall, a little triangular eharm a;.;ainst llu' tvil 
 eye ainl all diseases, whieh some holy ni:iu had 
 writti'n lor pay and this drad i^irl had elurished. 
 
 " Her;','" said 1, to Slu'ik Mir/.a, "is a L,Teat i^rave- 
 yard," 
 
 " Manv men," he answcnd. "ha\f died." 
 
 "It is a iiilit'ul neecssitw" I \cntnnik 
 
 " It is thr will I't (iod," said llr. 
 
 I watelu'd the tiuLHTS of the wind take sand t'rom 
 beneath a lu\q) > if stones lyin;; npun soiTie ijraxr in 
 protection from the ln'asls. " W'lufc," I asked, look- 
 ini,' up, "are the sotils of these men?" 
 
 "Each," he answt-Teil, "in its apjioinfrd place." 
 
 " Accord in.i,^ to the will of ("md?" 
 
 "Trulv, k'liii'ti-iijd !" he cxelaiiiu'd, sniily. 
 
 I'(ir this man were no nvv'slrrirs whatsoc\'er. 
 
 This Mirza was sheik of the wandering' folk of all 
 that district — a man honored anil ai'eomued wise. 
 It seemed that his trihe liad \v> \'enerati'd aneesldr, 
 as he told me with some little si^n nf shame, hut was 
 ealkd the- Tribe of Them That Had lle.ml, beinu in 
 the first place j_;atlKred by aei'ident from East an^l 
 
 77 
 
G ( ) I X (] I) O W X P ROM J K l< I- s A I. i: M 
 
 West. I f.-iiicir.]. tlicii, that llic outcasts of K^ypt 
 ;ui<l till' Great Arahian Dcsrrt had fatht-iv.l it -the 
 poor and e\ i!, wlio, haviii- hcanl of this refu-^'c, ha,] 
 veiiturol to It and rfinaind. They ])ossessed (lorks 
 and ranicls and some wid.ly scattered .L,n-o\es of date- 
 palm, ■ ' thesi' not in ahundaiiee: and tht'V were a 
 lean tiihe in t^-ry way -lieeanse, s;.;d tlu'y, of all 
 the deserts in all the wide w< .rid no ,,ther was as 
 sandy and dry and harreii and inivieldin,i^^ as the 
 desert of I-:t Till, info the thh-sl and hnn-vr and nn- 
 \yatered heat o" which (iod had seen fit to cast lliem. 
 The sheik was cai)tain an<l iud.i^c over thein, his 
 wisdom the htw; and of his cunnini^ jud,t;nients 
 Mustafa, the caniel-driver from 'C! Arish. told me 
 much. 
 
 Once, saiil he. two men came to Slu ik Mirza dis- 
 puting:. 
 
 "l am hut now." said the one, '-returned fmm 
 Cau-o. I?ef,,re lea\in- I cTitrusted my moiu vd)ox 
 to the keepin.L: of this false friend, who now denies 
 reeeivin.i: it: and as it contained my whole fortune, 
 I am n'duceil n > po\ ertv," 
 
 "It may well l)e."sai,i Slu ik >rirza, "th.at you are 
 mistake!!. At what ]ilaee did you yjvr tliis nia'i the 
 nione\--lH in '"' 
 
 B-in.^ informed of this, the sheik inf|uired >,{ the 
 accused ^vhether or not he knew th(> s]n,\. 
 
 "Truly not!" \vas the ansv.er. 'I have never 
 hea.rd of the ])Iaci' lief.ire." 
 
 ■•»',o now to that jilace," sai 1 Sh ik Mir/a lo the 
 
 78 
 
Till- n r S T OF M F. X 
 
 accuser, "anil pomicr well. It may lu- that n'ou will 
 recall the nanu' nf \\\r man to wlinm \'ni rcalh' vn- 
 trustc'd tlu' ni'ir.cx'. fur it sci'iiis to nir that this ]in.ir 
 iVllow IS iiiiiiitxiil." 
 
 Tilt' man departed, leaviiiLj the accused in the 
 presence i>\ tht' sheik to await his retu'ai. 
 
 "It seems," said SIteik Mir/a, inij^al ientlv, when 
 ,an hour had ]>assi'd, "tliat lliis man is ,^niie a h luv; 
 time and is idly wastini,^ mv time." 
 
 "Xo," was tln' incaiitinus ri'|ily: "he has imt had 
 time Xn reach thi' ]ilace and return." 
 
 "What'" cried the sheik, in an!j;er. "('iuilt\-man 
 tiiat you are, you remember the ])lace where the 
 money was eiitrtisted io your cand" 
 
 Mustafa the camel-dri\'er told me that tlie man 
 made restitution, and was pr(.)])erl\' jtutiislu'd fnr liis 
 dece])tir)n. It was mtich like a tale of tln' Wise Cadi 
 of Al Rursah : hut whatex'er the trutli or emertainitii,' 
 menilacity of Mustala the camel-dri\-er, Slieik Mirza 
 nevertheless delivers judgments in this wise, and of 
 such are the disjuites hrou(:;ht bel'ore Irim. Some- 
 times his wisdom is souc^ht from lieyond his tribe ; and 
 wh'.'ther from within ov without, he ,u:,iins nrU onl\- 
 honor. l)ut a perccnta,c;e of thi' \'alues in\-olvcl, wliieli 
 is s^Miiethintr worth bein^ wise I'or. 
 
 Here, now, at any rate, was th(> wis(> Mirza, ab- 
 stracts 1 by the tomb of tlu> t'oraotten huly man. witli 
 the .c;raves of generations of his ])eo]>le underlMot, 
 and roundabout — the wind lilnwing from the hot, 
 
 79 
 
h 
 
 noixn DOWN PROM JERUSALEM 
 
 umvatcrcl. and uninhabital,!. d.s.rt to the south 
 t!u. ^n-uesome s.k.Kv n.I,.vc.,l l,v nothing hut tlu: 
 
 UK,u,.t„K,v,„,o,-tlu>san,I.th.suni^.,l„;ifn.rn 
 
 - ' cloud an. n-radiatin, ,t with .vcrv^or,.^^^^^ 
 
 n 1 .In.unu^morc.tc.nd.rcolorsovorth.rolhn.tand- 
 h.llstothemnotc.stc.astc-nsky. r observed SkHk. 
 
 was more decently elad than any Bedouin ^o 
 '--nc.y-a severe Maek ^own, en.hroidered wit 
 -•k s.lk .raeetully fittin,, a small hody. and d.s- 
 
 X ^"'V^^^■'!^'i-^--'-^ white ...... ,e- 
 
 cath. Ih, ,-a/;nvh was white and fresh; it was 
 
 :^n™ove.h,s head, it appeared, with no intention 
 t.> coneeal .us .,ves, hut fell even short of them-an 
 
 ""'■"" "'';''"'"■ "^' ^-^ >™^. l.lackd.eard" 
 l^^-.n. qu.ck dark eyes, contem,dativ,. and n< ^ 
 
 ;|s^-:ed. and a delicate and religious cast of face: of 
 a soft voice and way-melancholy and incurious and 
 -< y pa K.nt, hke the very desert that hre<l hitn. 
 
 resently he looked up fn.. a protrudm, hone, 
 winch thesan,! was lahorin- to cover 
 
 •■nu. sand is restless,- he s,.hed-seeniin. in this 
 
 - "-iH.nawuulowofhissoul. I w.s enlightened 
 
 to |(j(ik' HI. 
 
 We returned, then, to the tents; and here reflcTtin. 
 "I-"th.smeaneholytoml>,I,,nK-mlx.ed,i..p ,u 
 ' !"■ \\ lute Ass. 
 
XVI 
 
 THE TOMT! OF Tin; WiriTC ASS 
 
 I MAY rclatf concerninLr ihr j.ious incrclL'int and 
 I the tomb of the white ass that in Damascus llie 
 Interpreter and I, proceedin.i,' aimlessly in search of 
 adventure, entered a narrow street, traversed hy 
 few, and there came upon a curious si.s^^ht: an oM 
 man at his halh, taken :ii the open street; he was 
 savinj^r his m(K]esty as hest he eouM, to he sure, hut 
 wa.s not abashed., nor did his stran.i;e employment 
 create so much as a flutter of discomposure on the 
 thorouuhlare. Ilavin<,^ turne.l into the silkd.azar. the 
 Interpreter stoj)ped to gossip with a merchant of 
 embroideries, a sleek felhnv, of pious inclination; but 
 the piety of this man was as nothiiii^r compared with 
 the devotion of his nei^^hbor and comj.rtitor. He 
 was a cadaverous object— a rusty, i rayed old felh.w 
 with a lon^i^ white beard and deep-sunken eyes— now 
 squattin.i^r in his stall, quite .letached from the allairs 
 of the market, being occupied with a great book, 
 over which he bent, swaying and muttering. A 
 small a])prentice, wlio had ajiproaehed with cheery 
 swagger, paused at the stall an.] extended his liand', 
 which the pious old gentleman abstractedlv tapj.ed 
 
 8i 
 
''')! \r, i)()\v.\ FROM ji' rusali:m 
 
 three times, not losin- a siii,L,'le syllahlc of his prayer, 
 h'AVeMT, 111 the operation. I]lesse<I m this wise. "the 
 la.l went on his way, and was sueceedeil l.v another, 
 aii.l a thml, a.nd a disease-l lK',i,^<;ar, all of whom, in the 
 si)aee of thre. minutes, were tapped into an accession 
 "f piety, and went about their business, much bene- 
 tited. 
 
 "lie IS a Mohammedan famed for his devotion," 
 the Interpreter explained, as we walked awav, "and 
 his blessing' is much sou-ht. It is even said that the 
 touch of his fm.^er will work cures, and that as a 
 writer of cliarms a-ainst evil he is not eciualled in 
 the city. I- or many years he has sat m that same 
 stall, ])ractisin.u !'ra\-er and readin.i;. He is a holy 
 man, withdrawn from the world, and will doubtless 
 ha\e a liojv tomb when he dies, where the pious may 
 pray 
 
 "It seems," said I, "that he will hardly thrive in 
 the silk l.'usiness." 
 
 The Iriter])reter laut^^hed. 
 
 "The de\-out,*" I \enture<l, "are seldom thriftv." 
 
 '"The ^"cipients nf his blrssin>;," the Interpreter 
 r.xplained, .softly, "are permitted to leave coins con- 
 \-enient to his hand." 
 
 Im-miu the bazar we jjassed into a windint^^ street, 
 Very narniw, with -rim old houses on either side,' 
 .sometimes falhn- to:^r,.tlKT at the eaves or frankly 
 bulged overhead: so that on this dull dav the way 
 was dark and ghostly. In an aperture' tn;m the 
 
 62 
 
THR TOMB OF THE W Pli T F. ASS 
 
 street \v;is an tinkempt ti>inl); the branches of an ill- 
 thri\-ini,' biisli ])r(itruile(l thnni^h the bars n\ a i^ralini,' 
 and were cluttiTeil with many hi^li-coloreil shri'ils 
 of cl(jth, knotted tightly. "FhTe," said the Inter- 
 preter, "is tile i^rave of some lioly man eif tlie eil\-, 
 whose name is doubtless forgotten, liut whose jiiety 
 lives in tra(Htion, into which has entered, too, the 
 protertinj:; virtue of his tomb. The poor shreds u]>< >n 
 this holy bush are the evidences of the vows and 
 prayers of passers-by — of many travellers, perha])s 
 (for we have come near a gate of the cityi, who haw 
 turned aside to this shrine to register their thankful- 
 ness. Indeed, the people are de\-out and most 
 simple, accepting the rej^atations of these kuidlv 
 I^ious folk without (juestioning, as the hermits and 
 holy men (")f me(li:e\-al times were accepted, upon 
 their own statement of their virtues; and thev are in 
 consequence often misled. 
 
 "There was onci'," he continued, "a voung m;m, 
 riding on a white ass, whose beast fell exhausted 
 on a main -travelled road, and there instantlv ex- 
 pired. 
 
 " ' I will bury this unfaithful ass,' thought he. ' lest 
 I get no sympathy from passing tra\-elk-rs, who will 
 suppose that I have ridden him cruellv.' 
 
 " Xo sooner had he accomplished this than a 
 benevolent man appeared and demanded to know the 
 occasion of his grief. 
 
 "'My uncle,' replied the youth, 'an aged and most 
 reverend man, being upon a pidus ])il<.:rimage be- 
 
 i 
 
 5 
 
C.OIXG DOWN FROM J p: R U S A L E M 
 
 yon.l his strcnutli. I, as lure .lir.) l,y tlu^ waysi.lc, an,l 
 1 haw liurk'(l hiin.' 
 
 '"It is nicvt; said thr lKncvi>lrnt traveller, "that 
 a man n\ these hnly areoinph-shnieiits shouM have a 
 l"i^il- in keepin- with his jiiety, and I will ecntnl.ute 
 my purse to this wortliy end.' 
 
 ■■ rile traveller rode off ui)on his journey, inl'orininc; 
 all whom he met of the lamentable decease of this 
 most holy pil-rim, and so fast and affectinKdy did 
 the tale -row, so far did it spread, so rich were the 
 .tZitts it elicited, that the youth was presently estah- 
 lislT'd in a splendid tomb oxer the orave of the 
 humble white ass, where lie be-an to ,^rrnw stout and 
 wealthy, thereby exciting the envy of a rival, who 
 resided in the tomb of his .grandfather, near by. 
 
 "'Come!' said this man; ' show me the sacred' bones 
 "i" your pious uncle, chat I may understaii.l their 
 virtue.' 
 
 " ' As we are of the same pious profession, brother,' 
 replie.l the youth, 'and as it has occurred to me that 
 we may j^roht to^vther, I may tell you frankly that 
 my holy bones are the bones of a white ass.' 
 
 ■"Is it indeed so?' cried the other. 
 
 '"My conscit'nce accuses me,' continued the youth, 
 'and I would -la.i'y have y, ,u join with me, con- 
 tributing the relics of your saintly grandfather to my 
 establishment.' 
 
 '"Alas'' replie.l tlie other; 'thoui^rh you have only 
 tlu' bones of a humble white ass, I have no bones at 
 all'"' 
 
 84 
 
XVI T 
 
 TiiKDniii Tin; sAi/r swamp 
 
 MEANTIME tli.'V 1ki,1 nia.lr cai 
 'i'lic ru^s wcrr spr(_'ail ividy i m 
 
 nil) ''V tlK' wtll. 
 tlk' saiiil liv tlu' 
 klnn^\ija's tent — thr Ih'Iiac] lilur Ku;; ami ihf Lilllc 
 (jrin and that poor mmdcscript whirli thr yiiun;^L'r 
 kliau'iija (liavini; takrn in hastfi Iiad Lnnliiiiptuously 
 railed the Dish Ra.u, Imt lnwd like a ninir^nd do^. 
 These were of JJaniaseus, hard suuLjhl, aei|uin,'d with 
 delii^lit, familiar, inueh l(i\ed, making: hmne of every 
 desdlate eani])ini,f-plaee on the L mj^^ n lad I'roni I)a- 
 maseus to this i;lo()niy well of .Mazaar in Iv^s'iit: now 
 lyini,' on the ereaniy saml, with the low sunliL,'ht set- 
 tinj,' them at^dow — lieantiful in these eireumstanees 
 as the sunset clouds beyond the ruined loinli, seem- 
 m^, indeed, a soft reflection of thi'ir colors. Here 
 sat we with the vSheik Mirza and the four elders of 
 his tnhe while the (xrenionial three cups of coffee 
 were drunk and the formal coni])lirnents exchani,vd. 
 They were encamped near hy, it seemed — hcdf an 
 hour, an hour, who could tell? the distance was to 1)( 
 measured hy the energy of a man and the urgency 
 of his wi^.h to he there. The triliesnieii were otT with 
 the (locks to i^ood i)astura,i;e; 1 mt the sheik remained, 
 
 «5 
 
 .1 
 
' ; o I x ( ; no \v x |.- 1^ o m j i: r u s a i. i: m 
 
 ill ^-nn^Kiuv with Ihvsr wise rMcrly p.-rsMus, tn pri'- 
 SLTW onlcr, b> p.i^s ju'l-iiiriit, ;nii| llu' likr, in t!ir 
 vvcul ni such unhap.i.y lur.l. A p,,,,,- hal.'iLalicn, 
 s.ii.l hr -a iiH'an, iripcwrislu^d li..usni- an<i enter- 
 tainment, a plai.' unlit fn,- th^. sh-H'S .,f the ,lis 
 Im-uisheM tu press, nliensiw t- the eye and lieart o; 
 ■niy man, withhoMin- i,, the stomach. Never \>v 
 Iore,j'iHlee.l, sai.l lhe\-, ha.i a CMnsideraMe sheik ( .f 
 I-:t Tih been ri.hiee.l tn a depth ni s<|ual.,r So re- 
 pugnant to the hi-h-horn and wealthv as in this very 
 instanee. 
 
 Sheik Mirza, as I knew. wmuM have 1 leen no 
 pohte He.louin liad Ik not delanie.l liis own state 
 ani I pi issessii ins. 
 
 "Come!" 1 vielde.i to this left lianded entreatv: 
 "we W'.n lake eniiee in y,,ur tent wlun the sun is 
 gi iiie d' iwn." 
 
 The\- held u]. tiieir hands in admiration of tliis 
 inhnite!;.- -enerous cnndescensiMn 
 
 "It is impossilde!" eried ihiy. reveah'n- in this 
 a Hatlerin.^ eomprehensi.ui of thi^ splendor to uhieh 
 the /.•//,;;.■,//,/ was accustomed ; "il is impossible— ihc 
 place is ni .t worthv,"' 
 
 "Still," said I. (irmlv, "we will d-. ii " 
 
 "The thii;y." .Mirza protested, '•would demean the 
 
 _ I pereei\ed in this a complimeiit t- the klun^'uin's 
 nches and p^wer, and to the sweet and anxious 
 hi.Miry m wliieh he custom, irily dwelt. 
 
 " XcverllieJcss," said I, do--cdly, .letermined to 
 
T II kOUC. II Til i: S.\ LT S \V.\ M I' 
 
 \)v ;is pnlitr ;is tlu' situation iIi iiiaii'k.I, ' wu will lulc 
 iiu'l in tlu' I'cKil I if tlic cwnui^ " 
 
 SlK"k Mir/.a wiiil nfi' in a liostlv- ixTtiirliatiMn 
 lU'nlini^ ni I wnnlslM iiilrr|iril ; ainl si > ( "lurnicW were 
 tlu chirrs ihal I was iivi\nl to ])it\' tlhir aiixictv. 
 It was, ho\w\rr, a iKparturc wIkiIIv ili^nificd , tlurc 
 hail Irtii nil hastt- nr liUiiiilcrin^, ik i failure of man- 
 tiiTS, no kssriiiiiL: of srlf-ivs]n'ct, no hint of ,,1,- 
 sc'(]uiousncss; the .ine-iciit forms had Inxn olisciAnl 
 in ;i fashion thr most jiunctilious -'-ofi i)hrascs, 
 si^Miificaiit ami grateful, fallin;,^' u])on unaccnstopn'l 
 cars. I watched tlu- little ltou]) mow sIowl\- o\rr 
 the sanl -a i^ra\c iK'p.irtUR, the yoinii; slink Icail- 
 ini,'. acconlin.^ to his iK'^;rt'r, the elders resjieetfullv 
 folio win,ij;. They ])assed owr the ridije of a Lireat 
 sand-drift with no t'lekle backward turnin.L: I was 
 impressed with the di,i,'nn\- and understandiiiij: and 
 jiowi'r of them in their own ])laec. Thev were in 
 |)erfect harmony, it seenu'd, with the desert into 
 which they had vanislu'd. 
 
 It liad laeen thi' vmhappv custom of (nir followers 
 as we traw'llcd these far and simjtlc narts to mis- 
 represent us in their own i^loritica^tion , noi covild I 
 put a stop to it, N.hatever I mi.nht sav. We ex- 
 chanj^'cd ;4reetinL^s with whonisocwr we met, and 
 haviniL^ |xissed the customary cimpliments, would 
 then inquire concerning the trawllcrs' deL;ree and 
 destination. OliserxdnL; our stout carawm and opu- 
 lently laden pack-mules, or comiii.t; upon our camp 
 
•■'> I \ <; i)') w .\ |- Ro M I i; K I' 
 
 S.\ I. !•; M 
 
 at ni-lu, ih.s,. ,„,tnr |..lk um,,],] s,,tislv ilu,,- luri- 
 nsitv. uhuh was n„l.v.l m1 ,, ,hi,-s,v au-l i„tnn;,tr 
 s-.rt. \Vr!,.-,ni nxxlcst Iv fn..,,,.!, ; ,,i H.hron wc urrc 
 sin.plr tn.vrlKrs. hnnn-l .Imu,, ,,, |.:,,,.pt , |,„t n„ the 
 i'i.Mnsl,rVM,„| |!,rrsl.rl,,, u,. li,..| ,u,|uiiv.l a nusltTi 
 ous nnssi,.,,, h,,vi,r^ tw ,1,,, J u,,s .nnazr,] t./irarn 
 possihly witli Ihc' l,.lt,nnri,t ..fall ,1h. M,.,l,„nii lar- 
 ni(Tstluival,.,uts; this kn..\\ I.,]-,- .\!,....sh, the Int.T- 
 prct.T. -avc nir u,ih ,,n.. ii .^1, ,■, having ca.r^ht it 
 ''"'"" "'"' ''i'^"' tlH' !.i'.; mulrl.vr, ul,.. uas sIH^,k^l- 
 r'mti.l.iitiallv in 1 h.' rar , ,f a lulLTiiii l\.r.uy^ vrnss- 
 •'' "'*■ '""■'''''• """ i;-vpt. uv ha.l ,In„l.r,l" niniT 
 hiLih.r, an.l l.v so ,„n< h was thr i..,|„ .rtan.v ,.(' nur 
 siTvants c'.\a,i,'j,'.Tat..l: .nir ini^.si.„i was n..w a ,i;rave 
 rrah'tv; w.' w,t. u, thr c .r.li,!, luv ..| the I'-vptian 
 .^"V.rnnv.it: :t l.rh,»,v,,l all iHT..,ns to hoii^'.r an.i 
 I'lacatc us kli.iwn.i, nun, an.l nnilcs. 
 
 An.! now, \urr !,y thr -v. II , .i' Mazaar. as the sheik 
 
 went ..It. I lurne.1 .iiri. )usl\- tip-m A! sh. 
 
 '■'-■"■1< li'-re!" sai.l I, al.rupllv, - wil! v..u please 
 1>'1I "H' what is my station in Hie at the present 
 in.>nient .'" 
 He lau-b, '. 
 
 'Out witli it!" I insist. •< I. 
 
 '■V,,n are a hi-h ICn-lish ju.!-e," he replierl, 
 "travelhn.i^^ |.,r pleasure an<i information." 
 " H..W hi,:^'h.-" I aske.i. 
 
 " I think," lie answered, gently, "that there is no 
 more important in all Ent^^land." 
 ■ Hy whom liave I been exalte.) r" 
 
 88 
 
 •.\ 
 
TH ROU(;H T U E SALT SWAM I' 
 
 "It was OM-p'.r.il Ali, tin's tirtir." saiil he. "Ilr 
 was a i'riiu'f m llic Smuhtii \nU<vv lie tiilistrtl. 
 Doulitlrss he chcdsi s t(. sirsr a distin^'uislud mas- 
 ter." 
 
 This was a SoiulaiK'Sr I'nmi VA Arish, a sentim 1 
 and L,nii(k' -a sharivwitt.-.l, ICn-Iisli-lraiiini soldier 
 i-r thr, garrison, who I. lacked lus Iri^'s, I usol to fancy, 
 with stove-polish L-\\ry morning;. It was a ])l(.'asant 
 iiivcnt-ion of his, founded, no douht, n])on our in- 
 timacy wit'i the colonel; Imt I wouM have none of it. 
 I eoninianded that Sheik Mirza should instantly be 
 enlijj;htened and reh.\ed: ,ind Ah was dispatehed 
 u]ii>u this mission, ha\ iiv^ been su.irn bv the beard 
 of the I'rophet to fultil it ri-hteouslw I'pon his 
 return I was chaL^rined to le.n-n that the rumor of 
 our hi.Ljh station had not eome to the ears of (he 
 sheik -who had thereu]M)n n, it urall\- drawn his own 
 conclusion that the rurn..r was true. An c.xalled 
 judije, then, was I, the }-ouni.;er kluih'uja my secretary. 
 
 We rode out after sunset, Al sh (the admirable 
 
 dra,:,^oman) and the youn.mr /■//,?:. w/,; and i, with 
 Rachid afoot — that raij.ued xa^abond and poi>t of 
 Jerusalem who had folhnwd our camp from IJeer- 
 sheba 
 
 "The khai-'ajci will indulge me!" he- bet,'j^e(l 
 "Here am I, jioor Rachid, '^o'uv^ down from JiTU- 
 salem into lv-,^vi)t to see the world, ridinL,^ upon his 
 own poor, weary feet; and shall he then nnss the 
 si-ht of a very sheik of this wild desert in his bl.uk 
 
 8y 
 
 ! ^f 
 
 ' ) 1 
 
<. I) I \ (, DO U \ ]■ K () \| I i; K I s.\ I, i: M 
 
 1,^ 
 
 ti'iit nf h.iii?' All, lull ihr kluiw.ij.i will sm-rly m 
 <lulj;t.' Ins pi Mir i.uUiiul puft and story-UliiT!" — and 
 hiTL- was Ihii. lieloval Rachid, slridiiii,' ahead with 
 the j^'uide of Mirza. 
 
 Tlir uiiid was i^Miic dMwii ; the el, ,uds were all \-an- 
 ished irom the wtsUrn sky; ;. clfar Iwilij^ht it w s, 
 still and I'olnrlcss, with the first stars surrly appcar- 
 
 in,i; in th, n.imd, vrlvri sky, and a full ii n iinini- 
 
 n> nt undi-r tlu' h-ri/.m. \\\ prrsmtl)' passcl t'l-Mm 
 di'cp siind to a sail swamp -a llit, dismal, vvv<\\, 
 stai^nant I'xpansc, loul in the midst ,,f the tlran 
 <K'scTt. TluTc wtiT jHiols iiicrnst.'d with a stranj^c 
 slinir, wA '^vww and I'.nniliar, Imt "i a trisp and 
 j,'hastly wliili-Miid all.ni the .un. mid was hard undrr- 
 foot, it was slipp(r\- and clamin>- and as tn^aihcr- 
 ously '^\\\u as the mttini^' ici^ .if so-ar dis^i'.stin-,' 
 1"""'- I'l t'l'' I'lilin;^ li,L,'lu, with inVnt swifllv fall-n.i; 
 and the way unrert.iin, here was no Ljralrful path, 
 Init a repulsiw desolation of the .vorld — a pi;, v of 
 false Water and horrilily tinnalund-appearin,L( wi^'eta- 
 tion. 
 
 \\\' followed Mirza'^ •-^v.vlv. who led earelesslv, u])- 
 lifted [V im his t.isk, it seemed, hy the en-ai;in;4 <-'"ii- 
 versation i R..ehi.i. The i.lacv was like a quiek- 
 sand; disaster w; iteil u-pon any di^viation from the 
 I'ewikK-rin;^ roud ; the [iro;j;ress was at hesi o\er a 
 erust, with a Knisjiini; depth of salt mire beneath. 
 The younj^er khaicaja's eamel broke through h> his 
 belly, and I made sure that a clelieate leg would be 
 broken; but for a moment the beast restetl, awaiting, 
 
 90 
 
T 1! R ore. II Til i; S A I.T S \V A M !' 
 
 It '^■c'tiuil, till' \vi tnI ipf liis situation; tin n w itli .im.iz- 
 in,u'l\' p;it:(!it ;m<l iiiti Ili^'riit i.intinn lie i;ot tn s.ili.l 
 },'rouii(l, ^riititiiiK .1 I'lt, in a salistiiil way, aini j^rawly 
 proccc'ilrd ;is thou;;!! iiuihin;: had happciu'd, },'i\ing 
 the fumu impression of stupidity as ln'forc. 
 
 .My horse lloimdncd if. the raiiKTs uakr; he pliuiK- 
 cmI in alarm, continuing to cry and stri\>', and must 
 be cleverly persuaded from his dan;^'erous predica- 
 ment. I recall that his terror liad not passed, tliat 
 he was trenililini^ and uneasy, wlien 1 remnunted, 
 wet til the waist. We were ;^lad to ! ic awa\- from 
 this llat, sally swamp to ilu' deep sand > 'I tiie desert 
 whicli w(.' had heretofdre cursed for its dillicultv. It 
 was not so i;reatlv an escape from tedium and jjc'dl 
 tliat -^'ratifieil us, 1 think: it was tlu' ]ea\ inj.; Inhind — 
 Hke a disgustful thin.i:. come unexi)ected, fore\er 
 doin' with —of a jilaiv hurriMe ln'causi' n{ its treach- 
 erv, not hcekin.i;, hut repu<4nant!y indiffeniit; because 
 i>( its breathless and sHniy stagnancy, fruitful only in 
 unnaturalncss. 
 
•wm 
 
 '\ sin:iK OF F,T Tin 
 
 JT u-as -n>wn .lark, In.t thr rirn nf the „i, „,„ wis 
 lapiKMrin- ahnv. th. l,KKk a.vl cinu.lv rolIi„.r 
 outlnu. of th. .)cs,,l ^- tl.al sai.lv harn'.n which 
 l-r these, t.n ,Iays ha.] l.cvn a .hstana.. uhnsr hot 
 j'-nxon ha,l xvl to]., arhuu.l Thcr. was a low 
 '""• ''''■!' !'■'• I'"' li'Tscs, a St -u-.-lr 1m surnioutit : then 
 aurovrol .Jat, -,,alni, Ivin- in a hoUou-. will, moonlit 
 placcs-a tinn -rovv. sprin-ni.L^ from tlu' .and with- 
 out a w, II or any 1,1a. 1. of .^^ass. !Ktl. wasthrhahi- 
 tatum ,,, ,|„, ,,,,, siuak },In-za~a small, square 
 cncl,.sua., n. the mi.lst of ih.- .^rrov^.. walled with 
 palm leaves skilfully wox-^n. The women's quarters 
 were near l,y, |,ut xvt did not intrude upon the 
 niasetihne imporlanee, so that the sheik dwelt al.u.f 
 U.mhis w.ves, in the. wav of (Ik. n.ost. rish men .>f 
 Ih'.se parts, who will tolerap. no lessenin- of the 
 majesty oi their se'x. 
 
 Sheik Mirza's dwellin- was parciii. ,r^"d in two- 
 tlHre was a ^uest-pLee. l,v tile L:ate. wlu.v the coffee 
 hre u-as now -lowin.L^. and ati inne.- slevpinu-ehamber • 
 these all .,pe.n to the sky, save that the cr.ueh was 
 sheltered with a blaek cloth of goafs hair, an<l so 
 
 ime 
 
 92 
 
A s II !■: IK u F irr ti h 
 
 part <it" the iiukT riHiiii was nmU'd wilh a tliatch of 
 lea\(.'S. It was all s\w])l ekviii aL^aiiisl our comint^'. 
 I was rriiiiivlc'd of a child's pLiydiousc liy the nmd 
 tloor and tiny pn ijuM-lii ms; it sct'iiu'd, 1 lancird, that 
 st)nie h()iisi.'wifi'l\- liltlr maid had hut imw sw(j)t and 
 put to ri,':;hts. I]ul this tender fancv was si ., m ,]is- 
 pellcil l)y the sii^ht i if Mirza's ^ra\a\ dark fare, hent 
 owr the t'litk'i' fire, whieh !k' was nursing to a lilaze. 
 We were then seated in a eirelc a'lout the tire with 
 the elders: and, ])resen!l\\ for i lur thirst was enlVce, 
 and for our hun;4er a l>owl of i-r ished data's: where- 
 updii we ate and drank and luavilv snicked, and 
 \\\rv \i )V a li in<' titnr silent. 
 
 No iire.ah <>\ wind was stirrin<j;: the palm Icax'.'S 
 Were listless and st ill. thr sand inrrl. the wlmlr wi ir! i 
 \-oieek'Ss. Hcyiin>l the ;j,ate i if the rnel.isure .and the 
 tnmks and shadnws i if ilu' L;ni\c ihe drscrt wmt 
 white ,ind \aeant tn tlu' far-i.f| risinir \elliiw innon, 
 with nil veLji'tatiiin tn intrrrujit the nnsi\' sw(i'p, ni,r 
 any lixini: tiling ti. knak the hra\\d\ in^; pause and 
 silence I'resently, turning from this lan,i);ui m ais 
 prospect, I put a shocking (luestimi tn the sheik. It 
 was direct and akruiit in the Wes!ern \\a\. and im- 
 jii'ius. The man was startled and enneerned; the 
 elders of his Irike were tniukled with siis|ii<-ii in a 
 mere llash <>{ impolitem-ss, Imwextr. instanth' con- 
 trolled, liut d iselosin^L,^ a very '^n\\ ><( difference be- 
 l wern these .\rabs ami mn Western mmds and ways. 
 
 "Do you lieliexe in find."" 1 asked. 
 
 '^3 
 
C, O I X ( ■■ I) n \V \ !• R O M J K R U S A L V. M 
 
 "Truly, kluiiL-iiji! !" Sheik Mir/.a ciiiswcTfd, pity- 
 ingly. 
 
 " TluTi' is hut <iiu' G'kI ami Mohammed is His 
 I'i'i i])lul," \hv cldtTS jiatU'R'd, acoirdiii.i,' ti> tin' form. 
 
 Siiiiu' uiirasiiK'SS still ri'inaiiii'd, ii]ion thr liltk' 
 ,urou]i, a])])(.'arin,i.; iiiosth' in rrslk-ss, (HK'Sti( iuini; 
 Inland's i.'.\ehan,i,'i.'d ; but \hv slu'ik was placidly rc- 
 s.,'ardini,f me, at anv rate, and I proceeded, rudely, as 
 before. 
 
 '■ Why'" I demanded. 
 
 Sheik Mirza i^^used. "("/oil willing," he re])lied, 
 gcntlv, "I will a .>\ver your ((ueslion, i l(i(,ik vip at 
 the stars." 
 
 It was a LTood answer. 
 
 T rememliered wliat tile sheik-'s tribesmen had said 
 of their situation in this lhirst\' barren. "C'onie!" 
 said 1, boldlv: "is this ("khI a benelieent God?" 
 
 "Trulv, khiiicaiii '" 
 
 I cauL,'ht ill the answtr some exjirrssion of pain. 
 It was an amazed eiaculation, ton. and nii^ht have 
 bi ■!! \-(iieed in liornr and resentment hail the polite- 
 ness of the sheik lueii less; but he was a mild man, 
 anil s])oke <;-entlv, yet liftinj^^ his hands, in\'i iluntarily, 
 in siMUe anxious pmiest aL,'ainst blasphemy. 
 
 " I )i I \-(iur ]ie(i]ile ;^o lean of hun,L;t'i"' ' 1 asked. 
 
 "It is true," s.iid he; "tlu'y die of huni.;er and 
 thirst in this (U'sert." 
 
 "Are there deformities anions^ vou'" 
 
 "Tvulw /,■/;,;;, •,//',/; we ha\e the bliuil and the im- 
 
 ''4 
 
A SII EI K OF !• T TI II 
 
 bfcilr and the (rippled, accordiiii,' to llir will of 
 
 God." 
 
 "An' men <4o'«l or cx'il according as llu'ir falluTS 
 
 wcri' '" 
 
 " It IS indii'd triK' in soiik' casrs." 
 " Lislrn!" said I. 
 
 "(iod \villin;4," lu> rrspondfd, drawing nearer. 
 " I will carelulK- listen." 
 
 "Are the poor oppressed?" I began, recollecting, 
 as completely as ir.ight be at that inon ent, every 
 woe iif life I knev; "are the weak ravished? do 
 mothers die in eh'l' icd ?do sonsdesjiite their fathers ' 
 do ouths lo\e ho])elessly ' d" ehildn,ii die by acci- 
 dent ' is labor unrewarded ar.d ambition thwarted.' 
 is there a merciless enxy and greed in your tribe 
 which will not yield to correction' arc' there not 
 hands read\- for the nuu-der of the unwary an.! 
 thie\-ery from the un])rotected. - are not e\i! men 
 trinmjihanl among von and the virtuous ones \ictims 
 of the \-ile'" -and here my ])oor catalogue ot com- 
 plaints came to its untimely and painful conclusion. 
 
 "These things." said Sheik Mirza, grax'ely, " ha]j- 
 ])en liv the will of (iod." 
 
 "Here. then, surelv," said T, "is injustit'c." 
 
 "There is no injustice," he replieil; " it is but a 
 seeming." 
 
 "The tears," I protested, "are real enough !" 
 
 "Trulv. klhru\ii>i." said he, >Htitly. 
 
 "How, then," 1 demanded, t'^ t rv him. "can vou 
 sav that (/md is good .' " 
 
 95 
 
(lOrXfx DOWX FROM j [■ R U S A L E M 
 
 1m .r a nionu'iit Slu'ik Mir;^a jKUKkTrd hraxily, 
 stirriiiL( tlu-dyiiiMr cnals nf thu o>i'(cv lire. " Gm] wiil- 
 ii),L,'," 1k' rrpliol, Ii n )kinL,' up at last, "I will answer 
 >-imr (HU'Stiiiii : Liws there a man wiser tlian ("khI who 
 shall sit in jiul^inent u\)nn the arts of CkmI?" 
 
 It was an excellent answer, I thouLrlit. 
 
 There t-nsued a lirief catechism, and thonirh we 
 sat in a desert, .unestsnf this .Mohammedan, (jucstion 
 and answer— the i >. and .1. of the nearly f(irg()ttcn 
 hook — seemed y( t familiar. [ he^an it, as a whim, 
 in this way: "What," said I, "is the ehiil' end of 
 man '' " 
 
 "To ser\'e Cod, /i7/(/?ei ;;'(;." 
 
 " Wdia.t amhition," I asked, "do von cherish?'" 
 
 " To ser\e (iod," 
 
 "What most do yon desire in all the world'" 
 
 " Ti I ser\e ("ii id ]iel-feet 1\-." 
 
 " What most <1( I \'i HI fear?" 
 
 " Ti ' lail ti ) ser\-e I lim." 
 
 " How ^hall a man 1 lest use his life?" 
 
 " In the serxice i .f (ioil." 
 
 " 1 ii lu shall a man serxc ( "n id ?" 
 
 " Ii his liie lie an rx,im|i!i' > ,( pions resiL;n;ition." 
 
 " Ilow," said 1, "shall .i man lie ha]>p\- in this 
 world:-" 
 
 "It is not hani, /v7/,;;a,//a,- if he liw temjieratel}-, 
 he will siirdv In' ha]ip\." 
 
 " W liat eood d(_) \-ou seel: for \'oin' tribe"-'" 
 "God williiiLi," he replied, (|uiekh-, "i will an- 
 
A SH !•: I K (> i' KT Tin 
 
 swcr Vdur (jUcstiKn: To liavu my people livi' al 
 peace." 
 
 "And in prosperity?'" 
 
 " It is the self-sanie tliin.L;." saiil \\r. 
 
 Tile sheik's youn.t^ soti eanie in, curiosity having 
 got the better of his shyness at last; he siilleil eon- 
 fiiiently to his father, ami was there embraced (in 
 the way of these Arab fathers). Presently he had 
 snuggled close to his father's feet, and was become 
 one of our eompanv. 1 in(|uired, then, in a blunder- 
 ing wav, concerning the boy's ctlucation: Would he 
 be sent to the schools in Cairo? 
 
 " He was born here," was the answer. 
 That matter?" 
 
 ■ i.\' will, then, truh' li\'e here." 
 
 "It is the custom ot' the Western fathers," 1 
 ventured, "to advance their sons above them- 
 selves." 
 
 " !Io\v ma\' this be done?" lu' asked. 
 
 "It is said," I replied, "that tht- education of ilac 
 scIkioIs promt >tes it." 
 
 "If I sen<l mv son away to the schools," he an- 
 swered, like a man who had jiondiTed much u])on the 
 pmhlem and become ri'solved, "I shall accomp]''.h 
 his ruin. If I send him away, he will either remain 
 away or rettirn; it he remain, he will be t )rever un- 
 liappv, haxing been born to the freedom of this airy 
 desert; if he i-eturn. he will be l"ore\-er unhappy also, 
 having tasted indulgeiKi', ha\ ing been corrupted Ijy 
 the lu.xury of the city. Now, if I send my son away 
 
 97 
 
(. 1 .\ ( ; DO \\ x !• k o M J !•: k u s a l e m 
 
 (<> the schrtols, and if he nnnain away, he will either 
 sueeecd or fail in lifi'. Hut how, hdrn in this desert, 
 shall he sueeeed. hein^ forexcr al a disadvantaj^e in 
 an alien place' If he sueeeed, what shall eompensate 
 him for the- stress and enntinenient he tnust sulTer"' 
 lie must li\e in a room; hut how shall he endure to 
 live in a room ? And if hr fail, what then shall l)eeome 
 of him ? I will keep my son with his tribesmen in the 
 sand, that he may lie stron.L; and courai,ax)us and free. 
 Here we dwell content, eultivatini,' our few dates, 
 raisinjij our flocks in jieace, exehan.uin,^ our poor 
 wealth for the corn and cloth of other places, so 
 satisfyini:; all our simple needs. What shall a 
 man want more than his freedom:' We are np- 
 pressed neither by labor nor wicked men: and we 
 live in our own place, accordint^ to the will of 
 God." 
 
 "Vou are, then, content with the lit'e vou have 
 lived'" 
 
 "It is so." 
 
 "And Would, ]']\-r it (,\,_'r aij;ain, (k'ed for deed, day 
 by (lav, as you have lived it, since 
 ning.?" 
 
 " Truly, kli,!a<ii,} f" 
 
 My question had never before been answered in 
 this wav. I wa.-^ ama/ed, 
 
 "What ■■ the explanation of your contentment?" 
 I demanded. 
 
 ! Ic looked uj) bewildered. 
 "Why," I rep.ated, "are you content?" 
 
 98 ' 
 
 the begin- 
 
A SH R IK () I- FT Tin 
 
 "God willins;," lu rcplicil, i-nliLjlitmnl, "I wil 
 answer yniir (iiU'Slidii: I Vwc whew I \v:(^, iMini." 
 
 It seemed, after all, as we rode baek, a j,f(iod place 
 to live. It was wide and clean and far renii>*e from 
 nnist' and strife and fer\ent wishing; and any thri)n,i;. 
 Xothini:; clamored, nothing ])ressed, nothini,' sufTerei', 
 nothing ])ursm'd, mir was there sight or sound of 
 di'Sjiair. Neither right nor wrong presented itself; 
 tlu-re was neither wisdnm nor folly in the world, no 
 appeal, no demand, no contrary ojiinion, neither 
 warning nor in\itation. Fear was gone with hope; 
 exjjectation had failed — there was no future beyond 
 the casual glance ahead. And, to \>v sure, the desert 
 was a beautiful and grateful place to ride in that night 
 — a soft ])ath, followed without liaste or handling of 
 the reins. 
 
 The moon was high, the farther heavens soft and 
 deep and all alight with brilliant stars. We skirted 
 the salt marsh, riding slowly and in silence thnnigh 
 a perfect silence. A little wind blew up — no more 
 than a cooling breeze, coming in puffs from the direc- 
 tion of the sea. They were long ago all gone to slee}) 
 in the camp; and when we were dismounted, when the 
 horses anil camel were tethered, when Aljoosh was 
 stowed away, when Rachid was snuggled beneath 
 his rug, when the younger khaiCiiia was stretched 
 out to slee]), I walked a])art, where was no glimpse 
 of the tents. The wind was still blowing, l)ut not 
 risen — a gentle stirring c 5 the night air: no more than 
 
 9'> 
 
 M 
 
r, o I X f ; n o \v n fro m j r: r u s a i. f, m 
 
 tlial. I'lil thrs.iiiil was UK i\ iiii; : 1 listrsicil, \\it!iiii\' 
 ear cKiS'' ami 1 noild luai' tin- l^w swisli i )| llu; 
 strains. 
 
 Til tlic rmidtrst ]iIao's df the widr white circle cil 
 tlu' worlil tlu' saml was im i\in,i^. 
 
 "Tlie san. 1 is restless," I sighed, I'ehoini^ the nul- 
 aucholy uf Sheik Mirza. 
 
t ' 
 
 XIX 
 
 Till-; CON ri:N I i;i) .\i.\n' 
 
 Wl-^ iiiiiW'il (, ;|\- iiixt ila\', as was our hahit, 
 IkmidiI iiiiw 1.. llir rl-.\l.'l (\\'( 1! , if tlio Slaw). 
 In !lir first hnurs ur fihIc in Mlmrr, as always, 
 sleep lieiiiLi still hea\\- ii|Hin us ami the ila\- imt 
 Net liHikeii. 1 reinenilii re^l the ci mteiUinent nf 
 Sheik Mirza, aii'l then 1 ni.illeij a ei )iiteiiteil niai! 
 "f Daiiias.eus. I ha^l icine in iVi mi the street (\ ix- 
 call), where the witnl was MdwiiiL: wet and euli] t'nmi 
 tlic hills. Xi;^^!it was near eonie. It was already 
 dark in the eanojiird ha/ars; the Lnn;^^ Street Lv 
 some still I'aneitullv ealled Strai.i^ht -was silent: all 
 the little hanimers idle, all the littk' a])]irentiees ijoni' 
 oti to tied. The jiarade and har.ijainin.i; wire owr 
 tor tlu' day; the stalls were ^hutti'red, the sho])- 
 kee[)ers shut'lhnj; home. A ,L;lo(imv nii^ht, this, and 
 by the dusk and vacaney of tlte streils was the wet 
 wiml made the •'ore dishearti,'nin,L,\ In the L,'reat 
 ehamluT of otir (hvellin;^\ however. Sliukri had the 
 lamp alii.,du and the tire eraeklin.i:. It was all warm 
 and softly a.^dow and familiar: made home to us by 
 the ru;4S and tapestri( s we had ;.athered, and liy 
 the youuL^er Liiiiw.iiii's \esscds of brass and copper, 
 
 lOI 
 
<; o I \ ( , DOWN I R o M 1 1; k u s a i, e m 
 
 iii'W rcllcciiii.i^ Uir l.iiniilr^ht, I .iL'li with its pcctili.ir 
 lusln-. 
 
 'I1ic yniin.L;(i- hhdh'iij'i nwl tli;it Taiilik wIki sciAt'l 
 liiin were imt. yrt rttunicil. 'Flu y \\n<\ lalK n, then 
 (I l.iTxic'l ), uji'iii sonic (. iU(Tt;iiniii,L; ;i(|\ciitiiri — 
 there was iinwiio li:;l',l almia'l l'"r the k-hnhiii'i's cni- 
 vasand oilors. I lirt'w \hv Blue ISnkhani elnsc t'l the 
 fire ati'l tluTr l,i\- iluwi!, Iis1(.'iiin;4 t" tlir cliatliT of 
 tlir Maze aiiil 111 llir rain mi l!if ]iaiu's; ami I was 
 iinirh !iiii\c.l, I iwall, 1(\- llu' Mind man's st'ir\- <<{ 
 the ('ani)un and llir An.uil (which I sliall |iri'sinllv 
 '■(latci. and wislicd that the uiiliftt'd nimul rni,L;hl 
 find e\]in ssinii in snnu' deed. I'lxm this nmsin^ tlie 
 ynun^^iT kli'iiiuijii I'urst in, as lhon;.;h iscajun;,^ jmr- 
 snit, his e\i s at thi' widest, liis eaj) askew mi the 1 viek 
 lit" his head, his eane waxing in a fn'iizy i it' eniutKin; 
 and 1 knew, kniiwin^ hini, tliat smne cne'iuntcr ol 
 the (|ueer struts we tra\ersed Iiad niiiihtily stirred 
 hini. 
 
 "Aut'ul!" hv ijaeulaled, in his exlra\ as^'anl way. 
 "1 till \iiu it was fe.irful — terrilile -hurritde!" 
 
 It scorns that the \-nnn,m.'r kli,i\'<iiii and Tautlk, 
 wandering; limne t'rmn .i A/;.;;/ < if the eaniel-drivc rs, 
 liad eimscMi the winddn^ liv-slreels; and havint: emnc 
 ]»art way most iU'\iousl\, had jiaused wlieri' two 
 alU'\s nn't in a .ulooniv areliway, whenee a narrower 
 lane, 1 villi; lirtwi'en lii^h ,^ray walls, kd in a drep 
 ohseurity, promisiiii; no outlet. While tliey de- 
 viated — the predieanient ajipearin.u awkward in the 
 gathering night — the younger k'haiL\ija ehaiieed to 
 
 I02 
 
T II i; CO XT i; \' T i; d m a \ 
 
 (il)M'r\ (' .-I ;^1mw m|' re] -111 ,1 li-ht in the >li.ii|'ius ni'ir Iiy. 
 Il issued irom Ihr fiid '<{ tlir lan.c, ulii( li IrrtiiiiKilcd, 
 .'IS llu'V now nl)S(T\-t'd, in an uniltri^n >iiiid cliaiiilHT, 
 to which u Irll liy wa\- 111' a lin>kfii stairway of liroad 
 stones. I*r('S(ii1Iy within, the youn^iT k'litthuijd 
 discovered hinisell" IkIow (hu of Ihr l.aths of tli. 
 city, from tlic licalin^,' furnacr ^i \\hi(h procccilcd 
 thai lint ami w.ryin^' ^'low which had .ittnieted 
 him. 
 
 IKrc was an • iM manias instanth- ap])(arcd fnun 
 the i|ii,ilit\- i<\ his \(iicc, hcin.L; lift.cl tiniidh- !■> df- 
 mand wlial ]iii s( hit had disturltrd him an i>M, mM 
 man, 1\ in^; ontsi r( tchid nil his IkIK- upon a licap of 
 cliopprd stiMu ai the hltlc round mouth "f the fur- 
 nace, which was no more than a h"!,' in llic wall, IK' 
 was cm])!oyi_(l, il sccnicil, in th.rusliu;,,' the slr.iw 
 throu,L;h the aperture, a handful at a time, so that 
 it tell, a continuous stri'am, ujiou the fire helow. 
 There was no . uie else ahout : the old man was Ivin.i; 
 (juite alone in thi' dark, which was hot and dusty 
 and most joul to smell. 
 
 " !t is a wretched lahor," s.ii.l the younger klui- 
 
 "Not so," answered the old man; "it is a labor t'or 
 which I thank (r'd. since, iImu-Ii I am old, I .im not 
 yet turned bcL^^ar." 
 
 The k'hiiii'iiii! would know the reward. 
 
 "Sutricient to my small need," was thi- rei)]y. 
 
 """xjicnce a da\! 
 
 " Have you no heliKr"'" 
 8 lo; 
 
<.«' 1 \ (, DO W \ I K() M J h R L' > A 1. i; M 
 
 "ThtTf ;iri' liltlr iliil'lrui litR'alxMit, wlio pl.iy at 
 pusliiiij^ straw llirf)u;4li the Imlc; .uid they ^ixc mc 
 rest in the day, soitietimcs." 
 
 "Whit!" iriid the khawnja, "yoii lalv^r hv ni^^ht 
 aiKl l.y I lay?" 
 
 "Truly, khimaja, wiih iniuh lliaiik!uliu>s ti.Clorl 
 for the opportunity. 1 must he diligent lesl trouble 
 befall me." 
 
 "What trouI)le nii-tiaees?" asked the hlurii'ttjii. 
 
 "The keep<'r of the baths," was Ihi ,iiisvv( r, " niii^ht 
 tuiu Ulf ol'f." 
 
 " I la\c you no sleep at all '" 
 
 ' Wliti> the firi' is hot," saul tlu' old man, " I m.iy 
 sitc'p a iiltk'; and sonntinus I foi-ct m\silf and 
 slcip ai^aiiist inv will." 
 
 "Now 1"P!^." (li-niandid tlic klhncdjii, "'have you 
 lain here """ 
 
 "Since before 1 went blind of tliis dust." 
 
 "The nnmlHr of these \ears?" 
 
 '■('.od h.is privik'ued me \vilh the fa\or of the l)ath- 
 keepei" for these eij^ht vears." 
 
 " I-"ririid," iiKiuircd the kluih-'ijii, amazed, "dn \-nu 
 d v,.'ll o .nil lit wiih \'' >iir !i .1 ' " 
 
 'Thanks It 1m ( Im.I !" tlu' ( ild man n phid. 
 
 The \-ouTi,<;er kliaivdiii i^ave thi' old man a ^'old 
 I'icce, and must then ,ill ,it . incv take t.) his heels to 
 escape that ag(in\- i>\ L;r.itiiude. 
 
 "Come!" 1 said, when the vriunj^er kliaauiiii had 
 related his adxeiiture; "ue ha\e this dav both been 
 
 104 
 
T fi K COXT i: XT I- [) MA X 
 
 fortunate: 1 havf li.'in dfii^^h'i d with .1 story, and 
 you liaxc ilMtu- a dml 
 
 "Ti II iiif the stury," said hr. 
 I Will I'll tin story." I answered, " il' yw will 
 shan ilir dird." 
 
 To ihis lie assi'Mted ; ami I told him the storv of 
 the an^il and Uie miioun and the little lijind Musii 
 \vh(j had wandered the streets l>eseeching. 
 
 r. 
 
XX 
 
 THF CAXnrN AM) TUF A\(^K1, 
 
 IT was in Damascus thai I heard thr story, iiml 
 > m a (Irrar dav: unw liad oir.c a culd wind iipuii 
 tlif city— Xt)venib(.T weather, Idowini,' from the heb- 
 aiv>n liills, where, ])V all tra\e11ers' tale>, snow had 
 dee])l\' la lien. It was rainini^ in .m'sLy showers trmn 
 a low Lirav skv; the town was ih'. nclu'd and si/lasliei] 
 and shi\'erin,n — the canopies leakin.^, the raii.ued, trcs 
 adnp. the streets slu;j;;4ish rivers of mnd. From the 
 lialcon\' window the pros]X'Ct was mean (.■7iou,!^h : dis- 
 heartened doi^s, dniw^ (if jiesjiattered donl<eys, cam- 
 els treading llie slipperx' places with slow caution, 
 dri}>j;)in.ii; l)e,L;j,'ars, wayfarers in from the so_m,fy jdains, 
 merchants of the town with f ices screwed, sc()wlin,y; 
 BedouiTis, dull fellaheen — e\'crv man wra])peil t is.,dit 
 HI his clo;!k, of fur, sheep-skin, or raijs, .accordiuL,' to 
 the dealings of \< irlune. 
 
 1 ol)Ser\-ed a mangy dog \cnture from the lee of the 
 wall, stand three-footed and cowering in a po ,' (,{ 
 mud, and return ]ireseiUly to cuddle with his n.ates. 
 A drove of fat-tailed sheep crossed the ri\er on the 
 way to market, driven by three diistracted children, 
 who must gather the Hock from an unfortunate eol- 
 
 jo6 
 
T 1 1 !•: C A X < ) U \ A X 1) Til i: A X (• !•: L 
 
 lision I if a cotnpanv of donkeys with a strin.i,' of wfirni- 
 carrvin^ camels and a saney old tnan on the baek of a 
 white ass. A sheik of the Bedouins eaine, arri\i'd 
 from Some distant iilaer, having entei\'d li_\' (iod's 
 Gate, now ridiii.i: proU'Uy, his n >be and kafjiych thittiT- 
 inj^ in thi' wet wind, three serx'ants respeetfnll}' fol- 
 lowing, ail anned to the licth, sword, da^'j.Ter, and 
 lonj:; ;4tin: an alert and travel-stained cavalcade, not 
 used vet to the seematy nf tlu> town. 
 
 A trumpet was Mnwn, tmt in no spirited way; 
 an outrider i^allopcd past, and the Vali drove l-y, 
 with an escort of starved and listless soldiery, brush- 
 ed up, indeed, for this ser\'iee. hui still somehow Udt 
 differiuL: from the ra<;j,'ed, an;emie crew who j,'o utter- 
 ly im])overished in the Sultan's ser\iee. Some pious 
 Mohammedan, favored I>y fortune, appeand with a 
 lon<j stick, a bag, and a m,. servaiit: he would feed 
 the 'lo^s, I kn(.w, in fulfilment of a \-ow, and I sur- 
 mised, 1 recall, that his son's life had been saved, 
 since I could (.'oneeixe no otlu r thankfulness sufhcient 
 to nio\'e a Mohamnn-dan i if Damascus t(» the deed, 
 tht' da\- beiiii; wtl and e'lfl. I !e exehanued with his 
 servant tlu' stick for the b:!;^. "Whish! whish! 
 wh'sh! " they called. The <lo^s charged— a famished 
 snapping swarm — and must be beaten to their dis- 
 tance. 
 
 I dispalchtd Taufik to discover the cause of the 
 man's gratitude. 
 
 "This man," he reporteil, returning, "has but 
 now sold his beast to advantage iu the ass-market." 
 
 i07 
 
ti {) J \ V, ij ( ) w .\ i" k I ) M I i: k L' s A I, !•; m 
 
 TIktc \v;is a l^ip at the ,!(,(„- - a .liHi(i(t)t t,.],, u, 
 sinuatiiiLi and a]« il. .i^rtir, almost sul>sor\i( nt , Imt 
 cscaiiint; that. It was the hand . .f thr IntiT]>rrt(.T- 
 a p-ay liitK- pliil. .s< iphcr, r,f the cnlluicd Christian 
 dass, acr.iinphshrd, clr\ vr, and kindlv. and ..f an 
 ama/,in,^l_\- iinpcccaM.' jiMliunrss — who appi-nachcd 
 tht' l)aIc-( my window ^Mth many !' i\v lious and compli- 
 nu'iitary spccrh^s. It was with .lifricuhy. indtvd, 
 tliat I had p. rsuadcd him to sirw nu\ "I olisrrve," 
 ■"^^'I'l hr, "thil you arc inlrrrstcd in this MMliamnu- 
 dan's i)i('t_\-, which is not, hourxcr, .is nitcn'stiiii^'as thr 
 tlogs. It is a cuiiMus thini; al.out the dorjs of Da- 
 mascus that each must dwr]! in thr (|uarttr of liis 
 hirlli; liut _\-ct, as 1 ha\(' many times ol)S(_'rviMl, a <.]n'.^ 
 niay waiidi r tVom his jilarc, ,!L,'oin_i,r in pcacf, it' hr 
 may acconq^.lisli an ai-raiiL^cnu'iit with the nci,i^dil .or^ 
 in.L,' ] lacks, and will hut j-rocccd imicahlw and under 
 est'ort from frontier to frontier. It is ai much the 
 same w,ty that the wild Hed,.uins t . d the dcsi-rt. 
 The .Mohammedan," he proceeded, "has sold his 
 boast:" Very well, then: I understand. This -ood 
 man lias rotthed the i)urchaser in much nvvv than 
 he had. hoiied, and will v.nw U' .t on]\- pacify the 
 Recordin;4 An;^el, hut cultiv.ate the favor of lleaxen, 
 hy returning to the Almii^hly some part of the profit 
 "i his deceit. Td-tiijit he will sleep with a li.qiittT 
 conscience and a heavier pur.^e; .-md io-morro\\ he 
 will rise n'lVeshed, sustained li\- his rcli,c;ion, to .seek 
 another victim." 
 
 Ihadelsewhcrehcard something of this saniejjract ice. 
 
 1 08 
 
T li i: c A X o u .\ A X D T H I-: a x g e i. 
 
 "Conu'!" Siii<l llic In I'pivlcr, as ihv pnais Mo- 
 lianunnlaii IraiKr lirparUil ; " wi.' will \ isil llir j»)i.'L." 
 
 I woujil ntii call upDii the pud. 
 
 "Bui," he pi\)lcstcii, "he is wise and learneil, the 
 greatest ]x>et in all Syria, ami a — rich— man!" 
 
 TluTeupitn we set i>ul ii>v ihe liutne ui the jKiet. 
 
 As we walked, the hUerjireter b>\'\ nie sc miethinjj; 
 of interest euncernin.i; a <4reat traxelk'r— that nne 
 consitlerable traveller of the ereat Arabian Desert of 
 whose account ^ood words are spoken in Damascus. 
 It seenii; that he was taus^jht Araliie liv llie Inter- 
 preter, li\-in,i; one year with hini, not only IrarninL; the 
 lani^ua_y;e, but teaehinjj; his stoniaeh to cndmx' for 
 many days upon dates, for I'xaniple, or _yo hnni'ry, 
 and liis whole body to ;_;o thirstv. " \'on dn not 
 believe in Christ, dear frien<l. nor yrt in tiir l'r(>])het," 
 said the Interjireter: " what, then, is vmn- r''li'.'ii )n ?'" 
 " I am an intidel," was the answ> r; " tlu re is n^ > ( imi 
 in whom 1 lielie\e." "Is an infidel of this ehar- 
 acterr'" exclaimed the Interjin'trr. "An intidil," 
 was the reply, "is a man who beliex'es in no (iod, 
 neither cares for the wrath nor mercy of any." But 
 now, curiously, when this man was ready to depart 
 upon his journey, lu' came to the Interpreter, with 
 a rini; upion his hand, his seal, as men who j^o into 
 the desert should ha\-e "Wliat!" cried the Inter- 
 preter, in amazement, \dit ii he li,id read the inscrip- 
 tion; "yciu call yourself ' Khalil," which is 'A friend'? 
 It is a Christian name, and will instant 1\- d.eclare vou 
 a Nasrany. to yonr imminent peril in these far places. 
 
 109 
 
G O I X Ci DOW X !■ R O M J i: R U S A L K M 
 
 As y(ni are an intiik'!, hclicvinii in nu G' i, wliy not 
 take u Moliamnu'ilan name, McluaunKii, Ahi:,i.(l, 
 or -Mustafa, and in this way ease _\i)ur path '" 
 
 "This," the trax'eller answerei!, 1 will not do." 
 
 " Whv not"'" the liiterprrter insisted, "^'llua^■ 
 an inlid' !, helie\in;4 in nn liod, and should ha\e no 
 coinijunclion." 
 
 " Ijecanse," re])lii'(l the tra\tller. 
 
 "It is no answer," said thr Intrrj)reter. 
 
 "I will not d,(, this thin;;," the 1 ra\'eller deelared, 
 "l)ecause ( f tlie (lod of my fathers, I was born as I 
 am born, of Christian parents, in a Christian land, 
 a land of brotlurK' kindness and benetieent law be- 
 cause of Christianity ; and I will journey as a Christian 
 or die a mart\'r." 
 
 In till wild desert, whert' in the accomplishment of 
 his death sonu' man mi,L;!it haw won merit, the Red- 
 ouins often said t" this trawller, "Say but this, 
 'There is but one Cod, and Mohammed is liis 
 I'l'iiphet,' and \<)ur V\\r will br sjuuvd." The 
 Irawller would not; but after thn^e vears, neverthe- 
 liss, he emeri^a'd. I clo ni m know wluthcr he is an 
 infidel now < ir not. At an\' rate, he is no Moham- 
 medan. 
 
 We h.-id cnmo now, by a way most devious and 
 dirtv. III the huTne of die ])o(>t : a ;,;reat, ]irel('n1 it ms 
 plaei.', no duubt, but situatt in a wretched <|uaiier, 
 an<l, except for a gor^'cously clad porter at the little 
 gate, and a loni; blank wall broken too se\erely by 
 
 i I o 
 
WE HAD COME BY A DEVfOUS WAY TO THE 
 HOME OF THE POET 
 
T 1 1 !■: C A X O U X A X I) Til !•: A X C. E L 
 
 ihv latlici'd windows <>[ tlir harem, hanlly ilis- 
 lin<,aushabk' In nil lis nn-'aiu-r lit'iijhliurs. 
 
 "Ik'iv," 1 omijilaiiu'tl, " k> an iiilrusu.)ii.'" 
 
 " U is iiuL so," nplieil Uic liiUrprclcr, tariii'Stly. 
 "Xi' persunagc t>l Darnascus wmilil dtny a stranj^fr 
 of slalioii. You iiiusl seek 1''^ i/raY;:;. It is the 
 eusloni. There is no other way. W'oiiM >on lia\'0 
 liini eall upon yo!'/" 
 
 "The ailveiilure is vours," I assinted. 
 
 I recall a spacious entry lieax y stone arches over- 
 lieaii, a mosaic tloi n", new washeil ami a l)kick man 
 
 in white linen, scarrei 
 
 1 111 the cheeks, like a s]a\'e 
 come to Damascus from the Somlan l>y way of the 
 desert tents. There was a n:iniaturt' iranlen, . hii;h- 
 walled court-yard, with close-cropped hcd;4es and 
 mollycoddled llowers; this was an ai^^reeabk jflinipse, 
 hi^h colored a'ld wet with rain— a fresh, swect- 
 smellini,' jKitch, fallen wyn from the evil-cKlorcd 
 street. IIa]>i>il\-, as it seemed to me— liut much to 
 tlu^ cha.urin of the Interprtler— the poet was t;one 
 out: (k'parted (said they who loitered awaiting him) 
 to talk with some cclekrated theoloajan, arrived un- 
 expertedlv from the I':ast. There was a sheik of 
 learninir, however, distributing flowers of wisdom in 
 an anteroom, whom I observed with much interest, 
 siiKx- I had never seen the like of it before. The In- 
 teqireter explained that he was a famous theologian, 
 whose learning was much sought because of its 
 hetero(k)Xv, which, howe\er. had not y^-t trans- 
 the limits of his i)ersonal security. Thus 
 1 1 1 
 
 pressed 
 
(; O I \ ( ; [ ) () \v \ p R f ) \] I i: R u S A I. K M 
 
 f.ir lie Ii.ul w.ilkcd ilu' niazr with cli'wr IrrL; IniL ihriv 
 woulil iDinc a linn.' wlicii soiiR' indiscTi't ion wmiM 
 not only accnmi.ilisli his ruin, Intt in\dl\i' his p'Hir 
 Studrnts in llir downfall. It u.is thr rustMin i<i this 
 man, it si'L'nH'd, to usr thr hoiins ■ if tin- .uiXMt, ha\ \ui[ 
 noconsidfralik' rstahlishmfnt ot his own. Ilr would 
 repair here or ihtrv, acvonlinjj; to tlu whim m|' tlu' 
 inorninj,', and, discovered ])y his jnipils, would iin- 
 jiart instruetion or not, as his humor went. It was 
 apparent, imked, that he was esteemed as a tc^aeher. 
 \(;w eleL;antly at ease on a cushioned (//;ei;;;, he was 
 siu-rounded liy a group of hero-w< irshi]>|)ing listeners, 
 sijuatteil at his feet, the fa\ored reeliniii;; heside him 
 
 mosth- hoys with sniall-^rown hiards, who huz/.ed 
 at tlif llanii' of this dangerous learning, e\ery youth 
 ol them all doubtless even then under espionage. 
 
 '■ It is Will known," said thf Inb rpivtrr, impatient- 
 ly, as we de]iartiil, "'that, tin- man is undt r suspiei( in. 
 I cannot conci'i\e why these jionr ymulis sliMuld 
 lolldw him. The\- follow, indeed, to a great eatas- 
 tn 'iihe." 
 
 ■■ W'lierefore '" I deni.nuKd. 
 
 "In Damascus," he answered, absenllv, "it is 
 wise to he eireumsjiect ." 
 
 "What peril," 1 asked, "can threaten these Ijalf- 
 
 " The jieril," lie answered, "that waits ujx.n new 
 teaching." 
 
 "The man's teaeliin;^" 1 olijeeled. "is not pulit- 
 ical." 
 
 112 
 
Til !•: (A xoi' .\ A \ I) 'j- II i; A xc I-: l 
 
 "l-.\(r\' iicw iIiiiil;," Ik' aiiswcml, "is ]n 'lit icij." 
 I n tin iiilurril llic ciiti'i-in-isinj^ j^rntlcniiii i .| iii i- 
 '■lit v!i() tiail imliscivrlly tii.';^r;iplu'il in l'^i;.'Iish to 
 1-1 III! ion ti>r ;in cti.^im' ot ci^'lit v rc\i ilntidiis a iiiiiuiU'. 
 Ki,!j;lity rcvcijutions a iiiiimtr' Tlir enisurs at Con- 
 stantiii(.]iK \\\vv shuckol; Ihu iiKlisLTLxi (.ili/Aii was 
 cast iiili I prist 111. 
 
\.\I 
 
 TIIK C.\\nv\ AM. I hi: \SV,E\. — (('oiltU!H.,l) 
 
 Wy. p.iss.vl the (l.ilr (.r St Thomas cniudin- 
 tiir<u\^li thr ilanip aii'l smwlin.L; swarm ami 
 flimhod a dcsi'itol hy-stntt much in intd nf .m 
 industrious sca\X'n.m'r, whence, l,v way <>f ;i Imv, 
 arched passa>,'e, we einertjed al.ruptly into a hroader 
 t hnr()u>,'hfart', streaming with sullen ])edestrians and 
 dripping- donkeys. Presently the Iiilerpntcr sto].- 
 ped under the latticed balcony of a niean-api)earin;4 
 house and knocked hjudh- on the door. 
 
 "Here lives," said hv. while we w.aited, "a hlind 
 musician. Mii-,a llalim, a jilayer ujKm the oiid und 
 canonn. who thrives much l^'ttcr than most musicians 
 of Damascus, hein.cj a .^tiule and respecta!>le person. 
 There is a curious story in connection with him, 
 lo'- uhuli 1 can \ouch, lia\in,L;had it from my mother, 
 to whom it was wcl! km.wn. The man is a foundling, 
 though he is not himself aware of his ori.yin, but con- 
 ceives himself to be the true son of his foster-mother, 
 who is now lon.u dead. He was picked up in the 
 street by a childless woman, by whom he was much 
 loved until she discoveretl that he was blind: and 
 after that she cared no more for him. but reared him, 
 as in duty bound." 
 
 114 
 
MUSA HALIM THE BLIND MUSICIAN 
 
THE (' A \() U X A \ I) Til i: A \ (] ]-. \. 
 
 At this pnint tlif door was opctU'd, ;in(l we wiTl' 
 with niiu h politfiiL'SS uslicrcd intij ;i small ronrt v.nd 
 will re ili( I iiti' placing' Ijraiirlu'S of xhv Kiiion-tRvs 
 diil/pcd like rain. A wooduii stair kd tluiui' to a 
 room overluokiii}4 the street, where sat tin IJiiid 
 musician idly stnimminj^ a great coriiiiKiit (•/(,/. i ! ■ 
 was old and clad accorclin^ to his station, in a cotton 
 gow!i a ^'(.'tUle. patient-f:'.ced man, c|uick to smile 
 in a child like way, so that, hcholdiii),' him, one's 
 h. .lit was tenderly enlisted. I fancied th.it li- was 
 shy and kind, j,nven much to lovini,' th(tse ujMin 
 whom he (Irprnded; and thi.^. indicd, the Inter- 
 preter said was true. 
 
 Musa played presently: :av\ I listeiiei], eni^ai-ed 
 Imt not coiiiiJreliendinL,', until the lii'.lit l't;.\iii to I.mI 
 in the little room. And as he played, he talked with 
 the Interjjreter — at last pultinj,' aside the oud, and 
 curiously gesturing, smiling wistfully, too. 
 
 "It is a ])rett\' stor\' of his ehiMhooil," said the 
 Inti'rpreter, when .Musa had fallc n silent, " I will 
 tell it to y( ju." 
 
 I heard tlu'u the stor\- of the ciiiioitii* and the 
 ani;el, which pleased u\v verv much. 
 
 " Ltmg ago," tlu' lnteri)reter began, ' when this old 
 Musa was a littK' child, his mother was imkirulK' dis- 
 {)osed toward him because he was blind. 
 
 ■• 'What is the use of a blind Iioy who must t'orex'er 
 consume, but contribute nothing'' she would sav. 
 
 ♦A stringed instrument roricmbliiif.; a /^iUier. 
 1 >S 
 
V. o 1 \ t; D ( w x 1 R o M J [•: k u s a l k m 
 
 'I liai! rathiT ]\;i\v a sitIiisj: eirl than a Iiliiid I my,' 
 •anl-^lic; 'and 1 liaii ratliiT haw lUitlicr than cillur.' 
 
 ■'I)a\ !>> (!a\- {\iv link' .Musa must listen to ihcc 
 c'i.m[ilaiiils, and thi)n'di hl- was wcundcd snrfl> , as 
 111' >a\s, lir Would ncuht-r cui-st' Cnni hfcausi' ut' his 
 allli(,'ti(m n(ir ansuiT his mollKT in anL;rr, la-lirx iiii,' 
 al\va\\; i:, tiu' wisdcmi of ("md. 
 
 '"\Vluii 1 am >4r<)\\n,' he wouK] ixply, 'Iwill find 
 a work |. 'I- the Mind |o do.' 
 
 '"TlU'iT ai\- till' Mind and the Mind,' said sho, 
 'and \iiu aiv ot' ihv Mind who arr Mind indeed. Is 
 il so that I am t<^ sti-\e you all my life and gain no 
 snia'lesl ser\iee in return'" 
 
 Xo,' answeretl .Musa ; 'the <,'ood Cod who en a ted 
 me, lea\in,:^ nie lilind, will yrt t,u\e me some lahor 
 that a Mind hoy may do.' 
 
 "To C'seape his niotlur's wailirii; he would then go 
 into tile street, where he must feel his wa\- alcjui; the 
 walls, \,v]Ui: eai-eful Ui a\<'id the teeth and ho(;ls 
 ol the 1 leasts of llu' eit\-, hut not tearin^j the men of 
 l)ania>eus, who are tender to the alllieted, according 
 to tliu teachings of iluir religion, [-"irst a step or 
 more; then Iraoiu!, e\-e!Uuall>- to the corner, and 
 at last into the Long i^azar, where he made friend-, 
 and would often sit m tlu' shop of a fez-prcsscr, who 
 eherishrd him. 
 
 '"I ha\e a brother-in-law whose wife is the 
 daughter of a silk \vea\ er,' said liis motlur, 'and to 
 this man 1 will aj 'preiuiei' \'ou, for surely you have 
 stieiiglh to turn tlie wlnil' 
 
 I lit 
 
T 1 1 L C A X ( ) U .\ .\ .\ I ) Til !■: A .\ ( , i: I, 
 
 li. this Wciy llu' M'Mil Musa ciiiil- In tiu'ii the 
 j^Tcat wheel (if i\\v ^ilk-wrawr; l)Ul lie was yet NduiiL; 
 Inr the einployinent, aii'l the weavers ol" that bazar 
 pitied him. 
 
 "'Here,' said they, you tuni the great wheel in- 
 dustriously, liui you have no strenjjih; ever,' eight 
 minutes you must r(.^l— the labor is too hard. Turn 
 the lathe of a earpenter; it is your proper occupa- 
 tion.' 
 
 "Thi lallii' <if a carpenter, then, the little Musa 
 turne(,l, I'Ul blmidcred unhajipily, because he would 
 think of other tliin.L:; . 
 
 '"Al an\ iMte,' thi.u;dit he, '; his earpenter should 
 lui-nhisown hiiji, ; tins maker of ehairs has no need 
 of a blmd ehild ; t"!' has he not li is teeth and the toes 
 I if liis left f< II it .' \\'h_\- sin luld 1 si r\e a man who is too 
 laz>' to eni])loy all the members (iod has gi\en him? 
 I will '^i> to ihe brass-worker; it is surel\- m\- place.' 
 
 "In the shop (f the i irass-worker .Musa di]i._;eiitK- 
 tumi'd the wheel, laborin.L; trom earl\- moiiim^ until 
 at smiset the shutters were |)Ut up and all the 
 artisans went home. 'i"he apjireiUices of the bazars 
 are na]ipy mdeed, li\in_L; the lives of their ju euliar 
 labor, hearing the gtissip of it, hopeful of risin- to 
 mastcrshi]), and. best of all, looking u]i fn un the task 
 to v.ateh the life of the eit\ passing b>- ; but \"r this 
 blind .Musa was no distraction, neither opp(irtnnit\'. 
 It chanced one da\-, h(n\e\er, th;;t a fragmmt of 
 metal, llying out, woumled him in the foreluvid, and 
 he must give up that oecupatioii, too. 
 
 117 
 
f 
 
 ' 
 
 (K) I \(i 1M)\V .\ 1 ROM ( i: K LS.\ 1, I'M 
 
 '"What now,' his mother C()iiii)l,niu,l, 'sh,!!! I ,1,, 
 
 with a hHiid chilW like this?' 
 
 ■' -Musa walked out, feelini^r his way uhnv^ the walls, 
 careful of the h<H,fs and teeth of the donkevs and' 
 camels, and came presently near the e..nier"of the 
 Lnni,r Bazai-, where, stran.^ely, he was arrested l.y 
 sweet tinklin- sounds. These he had never lieard 
 bc.fnre— no music, as he has inld mc: neither ond nor 
 Ciiuoitii. lie sioMd a.^ainst the wall helow the win- 
 dow whence issn-d the attracti\e sounds— with- 
 drawn from the jnsilin- and c.mij)kiint and pity of 
 the street. vSoon, enra])tured, he issued from "this 
 i:-eelusion, and cauyht a p.isser-liy by the robe. 
 '"What is this.-' he demanded. 
 
 '"It is a ciuoHii; was the answer; and thereuiion 
 the mail explained the manner of its l)layin.u and all 
 the business of music. 
 
 '"It is e\ident,' thoti-iit .Musa. '(hat C,<h] has !e<l 
 Hie to this i)lace and entrance.! nie. vSurelv, the (}o(l 
 who made me to be born blind h id ihe intention of 
 suceorin- me, and havin- led mr t,, this accident, 
 wishes that I should continue, not a turner of wheels,' 
 I'Ut a ,^i\-er of delij,dit.' 
 
 '' Musa "s mother would hear nothin.i: of this plan. 
 ' What!' cried she; 'a caiiouii indeed! Shall we -i\e 
 a bear silk to weax'c?' 
 
 "Always was this .answer, 'Shall we .^ive a bear 
 silk to weave?' Xi^ht and day the samt: ' Shall we 
 
 ^i\e a bear silk t. 
 
 ' wra\e; 
 
 ,? 
 
 Shall w 
 
 silk to weave.'' until .Musa sought no more 
 
 IIcS 
 
 e "ive a bear 
 
 L^V 
 
THE SHOP OF THE FEZ PRESSER 
 
THE CA N t> L' ^ A -^ i-" 'i" "1^ -^ -^ '' '■ '' 
 
 "'nut,' thnuc^hl he. 'I will ask ("kkI U' s.n.l an 
 auj^a'l wiUi a < u»,';(», ami in this way 1 will surely i^am 
 my wish.' 
 
 "This he (lid. uii^ht ami m^rnin;.,^ and often durin,^ 
 the (lav, 1 )(,-(•( eh inL,' that an an;4el nii.uht he sent with 
 a anionii; hut no anyJ eanics pray as hard as he 
 mi.uht. It beeame his hahil. then, when in the 
 street, to ]iause, ahsent-inin.ded, and strum the palm 
 ot' his kit hand with the fmirers ol" Ids ri^ht: and this 
 eurious oeeupation never failed t.. attraet attention. 
 "'Blind hoy," they would ask. 'why do y(ju this 
 ([ueer ihin.i^".'' 
 
 "'I ].l;iy on m\ 'ftle anirit)!.' he answered; 'it 
 is my litlli' L\uii^!ii!. and I I'lay.' 
 
 ■■.\l\\a\s he w-ail'' answer in the same words, 
 strunimin- ilu' palm of his left hand, "I play on my 
 httle ca)U'U)!.' 
 
 "One day a lady lan.udied elose at hand 
 "'Little hoy,' she asked, 'what are you doiivj;?' 
 '"I play,' Mu.>a answ(.'red. 'on my little L\ii:oiiH.' 
 '"But here,' s.aid she. 'is no t^iiiiaiu !' 
 '"It is true, lady." he answered; 'hut having no 
 raiinntu T must jiretend to jiossess oiU'.' 
 
 "The lady lautihcd then, and went away; and 
 Musa idled on, hut, returnin--, was intereei)ted l)y 
 a hoy of his nei>j;hhorhood. who said: 
 
 '"Make haste; there is a surprise in store for you.' 
 "At the comer of the bmg Bazar they said; 
 '"Go faster; you will he mueh ])lease(l with what 
 you lind at iK.ime.' 
 
G U 1 .\ ( i DOW \ |- li ( ) M I 1-: 1< u S A L !•: M 
 
 "Bc•lic•vin,^^ ihi-n, tlial ihr anj^'rl had c'(inu\ Musa 
 hastciicil; and at home, indeed, he found has (irst 
 
 CcUlOll}!. 
 
 ■"An anijel,' said he, 'has limnuhl it!" 
 It was this tale I exehaiiL^ed with the youn.i^er klhi- 
 ix.\tia in return tor sharin;j; with ine the .uond (Wv^l he 
 had done upuu the pitiaMe estate of the eontented 
 man ot Danuiscus, to whom Shiek Mirza's ri'S])onses 
 had recalled me h\- the Well of Mazaar, in I-^^ypt. 
 
XXII 
 
 TI!F. WEI.!. OF Til!-. SI..\VK 
 
 ^■.1 
 
 TME Arabs," said the admirable Alxxish, spur- 
 ring ti'.e i:ray horse ncan'r, on the road to 
 Bir el-Abd, "haw a prox'erl): A journey is as lon.i; 
 as the looking forward of him who would l)e at his 
 destination." 
 
 1 ierein, to be sure, was expressed the wise ]);itienee 
 of the desert: a nian is as weary as he is wishful 
 to l)e (lone with all travelling-. But it had been 
 hard riding that day for aliens — a broiling footpace 
 thnjugh the san<]s of Et-Tih — continued, with urging, 
 since the cool wind of dav i had fallen flat. More- 
 (i\-er, e.\|)erience tempers all hardship: who is inured 
 has no feeling. 
 
 " It is true, as they say," I answered, "that a com- 
 ]ilaining man cvu-dles all good cheer; but the Arabs," 
 said I, (juoting a prowrb I had hea.rd in Damascus, 
 "have another wise saying: Jle wh(.) receives the 
 strokes is not like him who counts them." 
 
 "Patience," he quoted, promptly, "is from God." 
 
 I was able to retort. 
 
 "Patience, as the Arabs say." I answered, "is 
 the expedient of the man who has no exptnlient." 
 
 121 
 
r. o I \ ('. I) ( ) w X I' ROM i r: r v s a l e m 
 
 Tlu' (IraLjiiiiian lauLiIicd. 
 
 "TIrtc is \('I," saiil he, (lirii(U'ntl\\ "aiii>tlu'r prnv- 
 crb; A i;l()(Hii\' I' II ik is a torci" ulini,' < il' ill, aaii a liri^ht 
 face is like ,t,'(M/(l iiuws." 
 
 It sc'tans that ihc ilrsrrl ]ilnl(iso|iIi\-, currcnl in 
 these i)r()\iTlis. is, al all limes aii'l withi mt r'lmiilaiiU, 
 tf) make the hesl nf neerssil}'. 1 made liasle to 
 practise it. 
 
 Still was it hard riding; nor, search the rollinc; 
 velluw waste as we Would, was there anv ])n)rmse (it 
 an end. In the lie,L:innin,L^--this at the ;,di)(»mv Well 
 (if Mazaar — a caiiiehhenler of those parts had at our 
 niountiuL; said six leisurely houi^s to Bir eh.\I)d; hut 
 hi liad proved a poor san^; nine liai" ~a fellow irrespon- 
 siMe, like a child ]ire\arii.'atin,L; to pleasi,'. We xwrc 
 now well forw.irtl in ihi' natuh hour; and a ra,u,L;i'(l 
 ])iliirini from Tunis, hound east and _\'et within sii^ht, 
 had foretold three more hours to watir, whence he 
 had conv ere was a journt'V of onlinarv most 
 
 ai,n"eea] lie ; the resources of distraction were now 
 
 exhausti'd : :>iiislafa, the camel-driwr, was S([ut'ezed 
 i]vy of his excellent and en^a^inL,' tales, and must, 
 said he, search his riK'iriorx' in sleep, to continue; 
 the low-sou'^'s ot' Rachid had failed, and he was 
 become an un.feeliiiL; machine. trud;^Mn;^ ahead, loins 
 ijirt, a distrau,L;ht an ! most ucarv poet; the \-oun,L,'er 
 klunvaja and Tautik, the one hiobhiniL; on a tall thclul, 
 the <ither lazily astride a nl■r^■ou^, raw-mouthed p(.in\', 
 had tired of tuss-and-catch, even as Handed, the 
 
 I 22 
 
AT T II !•: U'l-: I.I. Ol" T II i: SLAVE 
 
 iiHil< U'crs' ]i"V, li.n! ufDwti uut 111" sdTls witii rt'coxiT- 
 iii;.; tlir halls Uicv inuri'cd. OuK' Ali, tin SoudaiK'Sc, 
 111 all mir ci nnpain' aifl lu' was (K'Srrt, luirn kept 
 tiiiiiSfll" iK'larhcil frnin travelling:, ami cninm'il, la^- 
 '/nv^ ln'Iiiivl, thr L;ria's <il' his Ih'IdwiI, her lips anil 
 li<>s()ni anu iws, whirh were nut li i hr niatclu'il, it 
 sct'iiinl, in all thr w iih' w'l n^li! 
 
 Ti 1 tlk' cTrsl 111" a hill anil ti> the crcs'L nf a hill; 
 hc\<inil a \allry aivl tu a lar-nlV riil.^c: this hail hfcn 
 iiur ri. liiiL; ihv ila\' Imii,'; ami mi\v I lancicd that wc 
 must Inrcvcr cnnlinnr to crawl tnwanl a nlroatinj^' 
 hiiri/.nn, liki' fhillR'n chasiiiL; the rainhow. Tht' sun 
 was lallini; lu'himl a \ asl chun'h-wimlMW ( if t'l'tud : 
 a iM ir;^(.'nus ci ili irin;^', strraniini; in strai^i^ht lines, ol" 
 cxcrv ])alf luK', I'mni a .unry hnriznn In the snnihn' 
 lii.LjluT sk_\-, ihi' whdir ri'llcclril in tlu' U'IkKt '^h^-y 
 (if llu' (-■asl. I rrrall that in the niiilst nf the wcsUtu 
 liri.- was a i^liinini,^ Mm »l-ri'il licld, infmitclx' I'Xleml- 
 ini;, srt'niin.n nnl tu rmif the fartluT saml, but ti- lead 
 fpmi it, as bv a s^^entK' iiu'linc, tu the renmtest ])lac'es 
 of the heaxenh' h;^ht, as lli(itiL;h < iTie nu;^dil mount 
 fnmi the ]i,irehe(l desert and omtiTUU' ridiiiL;, U])lifted, 
 in simie sui)L'rnal country. Then, as always at even- 
 in-, the sand was caqietcd with ethereal rainbow 
 hues: a billow\' pri)S])ect, wide as the sea — the cok)r 
 sulitle and ev;inesccnt ; no sooner ])crccivc(l than 
 \-anishcd. Well, the pilLrrim from Tunis, too, it 
 seemed, had lied — but \ et without (jtTence to us: 
 these tra\-ellin,:^' t'olk, on the old road from Cairo to 
 tlie East, care nuthini,'; they do l)ut proceed, cast to 
 
C. Ul.\(; DOWN FROM J H R U S A I, i: M 
 
 wrst, west tn (.'nst, l;ikiiij; no ;t("Cii\itit d liiiu' or 
 sutVcriniLj. \Vc cainr prtsciitly to tlic crest of a hill — 
 like any saiuly drill wc had hopcfullv surmounted 
 that day— and at our wry t'eel, all unexpeetedlv, 
 lay Bir el-A!.d, the Well of llie Sla\e, a ^'rove of tail 
 date-palms ^rowinu in a romid (iepression, the well- 
 shaft risiui; from a circle of ancientlv trampled 
 sand. 
 
 Aliine in this vast waste and silmce was a ra,L;,L;ed 
 Bedouin, tillin,^ iiis i^irl<ic at the 11; and him wc 
 interro,i,'ated. 
 
 "Whither bmnd, kluuiW I incjuired. 
 
 The answer was in a dry-lip])ed whisper. 
 
 "I ha\'e done no wron,^, khaicaja," said he. 
 
 "We have not come to accuse you, God knows!" 
 said I. 
 
 "God witness!" he protested, "I am an innocent 
 man. I ha\'e not wroni^ed the Eni;lisli." 
 
 "Even So." I replied; "l)ut is your errand on this 
 road SO secret that it may not be known?" 
 
 "Wilhih!"' he swore, "I ain but an humble Bed- 
 ouin (;f these parts, and lf)ve the English." 
 
 "Whither bound, khalil?" 
 
 " Bcarinti a burden of flour, by the grace of God! 
 four iiours hence afoot," he answered, "to the camel- 
 herders of our tribe, who will perish if I am taken." 
 
 " It has grown dark," said I ; " to-night you will eat 
 and rest with us, who ha\- ■ and to spare." 
 
 "The klunvaja is beneficent," he answered; "but 
 the tribesmen are hungry." 
 
 124 
 
 I 
 
A RAGGED BEDOUIN FILLING HIS GIRBIE 
 AT THE WELL 
 
I' 
 
 i 
 
A T TH i: W I- LI. () I- Tir I- SLA V E 
 
 "Ai <l.iwii," I npjiil, 'to yinu" liiirilni di' lluur you 
 sliall aild a j^ilt i>\ rice ami tnliacoi." 
 
 hlias, the co'ik's Lny an iin])i^li Christian of the 
 ut), iia\iii;4 ilif ointc'inpl ot [hv Ui\\n for these 
 desert durllers — was imw si'izrd of a dt\ihsh ini- 
 imlsr; lie whfclfd his ]i'iny and eaiiu- ehai;-:ii,L; upon 
 thv urctehcvj lUdouin. 
 
 ■■ There lie i>!" he screamed. "That's the man 
 We're after!" 
 
 The Hedouin t'Mik to his heels. A raj.,'^'ed ahh,i 
 flappini.; like a uhipiied llaL;, and he was o\er the lull 
 Letore the ,u:ra\- ]iiiiiy had reeowred I'roni her astoii- 
 ishnient. We elmked the lani^hter of I-^lias- it was 
 tlu- hand of tlie adiinraLle AIhk.sIi and t,'ra\elv 
 ehastised him, lie had seand a man from llie well, 
 who inii,'ht nut tlu ii, ficd knnws! have filled his 
 ^irhic. There was n<i fi.ri.d\i'ness; e\-ery Imwl of his 
 was like the musie <>( Damascus. Satistii'.l of pun- 
 islimeiit, we dispitched the hoy aftiT the Bedouin, 
 commandin<,' him to retvu-n with his eaptiw < <v Irmself 
 miserably perisli in the wild desert like a f.^rsaken 
 eaniii leaving' his carcass to lie picked Iiy vultures 
 and his hones to hk'ach in the sun and fri,L;hten way- 
 larin,!^ iiiules. iMirtunatelw he took us seriously; 
 and he was ])resently returned with the man, wlmm 
 he had oxercome with a Lrihe, he ruefully said, of 
 the only hislilik that he had. 
 
XXITI 
 
 THK lil.ACk lUlDoriN 
 
 WHEN thr cnuklia.! worko! Ihr evfninc; miracle 
 of a talilr siJfcaM Ix )until-illy in ilu' wildarm-ss 
 --lliis sa.mc 'lr\- waste l.eini,^ Uio re.L^ion wherein for 
 forty years tlie chiMren <<\ Israel had reeeived the 
 manna <'f Heaven -I wandered a])ar-t-. It was a 
 tender ni.Ljht, th*- dark Ljently fallen U]i(.n us, like a 
 soft blanket thrown <i\er in lovini^; wisdom bv a 
 modier. The little star' were out --a ;j;reat, clear- 
 >lunin;4, frienddv multitud.e— peojilini; the wide desert 
 itself, so that no wanderer mii^ht justly ery himsell 
 forsaken therein; and a younii moon, a .greater ;j;lorv 
 m the midst of tlu'se 'lear ennslant li;-^hts, had now 
 spread the infinite sands with a mystieal sheen. 
 Here was the frontier of realitv; beyond the drawn 
 breath ami whisperin;^' and all finite expression of 
 the tamp' -tlie whine of Hamed, who must for-^ake 
 the rieedxiwl to beat the i^ray mare from her nusehief 
 — a mere step bevond, an(' the meanin;j; was all at 
 onee departed from familiar eoncejitions; a mere stefi 
 —an ineh bevond the hill-and of this earth the 
 uttermost remott-ness from all besie.yin;^ perturba- 
 tions had been attained. Xo voiee was lifted in our 
 
 12 
 
 i 
 
r H E B L .\ C i; B [■: I) () U I X 
 
 caiTi]): men sjidkr ilnidst in whisiKTS, as always, at 
 nijj;lit, in Xhv lU'srrt a harsh cry there, it seemed, 
 impossible. The muleteers were gmuned Sfjuattini; 
 al)out a ;4reat trav of rice by the cook's fire, each man 
 reachin.L,' his han<l ;.'t will; the \'ouniier kluiii'ajii had 
 Inline of!' to smoke to his camel, and I ohserwd now 
 that he was s(|uatled on the sand, idly puflinii, and 
 that his L;ratefnl beasi, inhalini,' eacli whiff, would 
 stretch his neck for furlher Ircatin;.;; tlu' cameldioys 
 were liakins^ their bread at a littk- lire set somewhere 
 awav from the cam]), fi'r they counted theniseh'cs. 
 it seemetk the least anions us. 
 
 "Ahmed, take cart''" Mustafa whi^i)cred, m shaq) 
 warnintj;. "The kli iwijii is conu' to nbserw us." 
 
 It seemc(i that Ahmed's ' ni] sii])j)ed. 
 
 " Wcllali!" groaned the sc, .. lali/.ed .Mustafa; "but 
 vou will sureb. yet ]nit us to shame." 
 
 I watched the small Ahmed —a ra^^eo little urclnn 
 — knead the (lour and water and fashion a threat 
 round flat cake of the do'iL^'h. They scattered tlie 
 embers i>{ tli( fire witli littU' sticks, and the ])o\' 
 dccftly de]^osited his handiwork on the blai'k sand; 
 whereui)on thev co\-t'red it with coals, l^-esently it 
 niuf.t lic turned; and in thi-. jmiccss - Ahnu'd bein;..; 
 new m;ide nervous by Mustat'a's interminably re- 
 iterated warnin.Lrs-the cake was let fall. They were 
 much afraid, I knew -;ill tht'se desert folk— of beini; 
 madi' ridiculous in tln' eyes of stran.uers: but I was 
 now fairh' shocked b\- the outburst of t!u' niild and 
 en;j;ai;inL; Mustafa : lie t"et(-he'l the boy ;i heart\- buffet 
 
 1 .'7 
 
' I 
 
 O I X G DOWN FROM J E R U S A L E M 
 
 — a fjuick, cruel blow — and cmployal hiri toiij^uc in 
 se\"(-TL'r punishment. 
 
 " Whv iloes he take this so to heart?" I asked. 
 
 '"He says," AVjoosh answered, "that the lioy has 
 dislionored them forever." 
 
 "Wherein the dishonor?" 
 
 " In that, when \ou return to your people, you will 
 say to the whole world that Mustafa, the camel- 
 driver of El Arish, eats l:)adly baked bread." 
 
 Wlien, however, the embers were raked a,t;ain from 
 the cake, when the ashes and clin^dnt;; sand were 
 dusted away with the rajj;^i^e(' tail of Ahmed's abba, it 
 turned out to Vie verv tj;ood bread indeed, relished V)y 
 Mustafa and all who ate ;!S if iher.' had been no slij) 
 of tile hand at anv sta;j;e of the oi)eration; and 1 think 
 that the little Ahmed did well enoui^h — well encnis^h, 
 vou niav believe, in that mean h.^ht, half blind as 
 lie was. of what they call the Egyptian eye disease. 
 At anv rate, I do not hesitate to ])roclaim that 
 Mustafii, the cam.el-driver of El Xri.ih, does not eat 
 ill-made bread, l)Ut in every reSjX'ct ;j;ood bn'ad, 
 maile by the hands of .\hmed, his small relative. 
 
 liamed and Rachid had by this time j^athered a 
 great store of dry bushes for the camii-fin', which 
 must burn long that night; for, riding in weariness, 
 we had at midday promised ourselves a protraetetl 
 recreation. The little blaze was now reaching 
 slender arms for the stars; and jiresently, disposed 
 around it, muleteers, camel-drivers, anil all, each 
 .according to his station, we dis])atched Rachid for 
 
 128 
 
 1 
 
T HE BLACK B II I) O U 1 N 
 
 the coffee. There had meanwhile C(jme to the well 
 a great dark-skinned Bedouin, neither servile nor in 
 rags, V)ut a proud man, even richly clothed and clean- 
 ly, a hint of contempt in his glance at our array. I 
 did not see his camel (he was gone before dawn), 
 nor needed to be told that it was a thclnl of breeding. 
 The man woiild ride no mean lieast, to be shamed liy 
 it. I obser\-ed that he had mastered an overbearing 
 but not truculent manner, and that he now displayed 
 it, to save his pride before travellers who journeyed 
 with so large a company. He had coffee of us, how- 
 ever, as all wayfarers whom we met, and was bidden 
 to the entertainment of our fire, as all wanderers, 
 whether in rags or silk; and choosing a station some- 
 thing apart from the muleteers and Mustafa's crew — ■ 
 suiting it, it seemed, to his own notion of his degree 
 — he graxely squatted to listen to the impending 
 stories. 
 
 "Whither?" T isked. 
 
 "By God's Gate," he answered, shortly. 
 
 I knew then that he was from the far wide desert 
 to the east or south of Damascus, returning from 
 some business in Egypt. In Damascus, being asked 
 by the way, travellers to a secret destination reply 
 that they go by God's Gate, and no more is said; 
 it is an accepted form of evasion. The Bab Ulluh 
 of the city opens to the great desert. 
 
X X I \' 
 
 iiAi.i w I'l 111 I n I. ii.n.wr 111 I, IS 
 
 H\'. rccliiu'l \-il 'TKu-f C(iiiil'<)r1.,ili!\- mh [he ru,L;s, 
 in I xiirt;t;iliiin ni' ihi- lir'-l talr; ;in'l Xhv 'Ivivj:^- 
 iiiaii liis 1 It in,i^ ilu' turn h:i\'i:T^" u'luwi'i! llir cial i in 
 his ;a(/;t;/;/7i', tuli! tlir luUnwiiv^; st' <ry nf the \nn] i>\ \hv 
 LcbanDii liills tor iW uitiTtainnuiit nf t!ic t'l iin])an_\-, 
 "'Hurf was oiui'," Almdsh lui^an. "a loo] n\ i!u' 
 Lebanon hills whu cmtri'il his !nl]\- in his liltlc /.//■/, 
 anil WduLl licat ihat little 'Irutn until 'lu- nci,i,'hl>nrs 
 were tiiT'l (if the imisir. !la\in.L,' lutii' iu;J;1 himself 
 tliat tra\-el was a salutary thin;^, ln' departed on a 
 idurnev: and tni\ellin:4 far. he tame one niL^hl to a 
 d( .-.ilate jilaee in the mountains, where was no house 
 to lie sien, hut oti1\- a mill, sittiate by a tuinlilin,^ 
 stream, for the ^j-rindini: of corn. ihit he entered the 
 mill. ha\in;-,' no other sheltir, and waN presentlx- 
 aware ihat a :4re,d hrown l.ear was another oceupant 
 of the i>laee. The hear, as you ma\' heliexe, came 
 I^M-owliiiL;- upon Half-wit, and Half-wit lied, to the 
 r.afters, wltere in a fren/.\-, thou'^di clin^-jin,^ no.ie loo 
 securely to his pereh, he hetian to l)e,at his little /;//>/. 
 much to the terror of the bear, which scrambled to 
 the door and llierc be.^an to scratch for frcedt^m. 
 
 1 .^o 
 
H A I, I- - W IT () I' I. I-: iiA \().\ II I I. I. S 
 
 "■ Ah-ha!" tlunv^iil llall-wit, ' if I cannot (.iK.nn tlu' 
 licasl, si ,il I'an 1 i'ri,L!,hUii liini,' aii'l (.< inlimuil ti > 1 iral 
 i.n his 111 tic tiill. 
 
 " TluTc thancol to pass thai way a imilrlt'cr, 
 
 will iSf ln'asl was 1 iWTln;! in] willl WatiT-l h .1 1 IrS t T' '111 
 
 till' Dainasius pMttirirs: a fraj^'ik' loai!, jH.iMi] with 
 ilil'licultv I III till' jiae'k i it' any animal. 
 
 '"Ali-ha!" Ihiiui^ht Ius'Iumt am I, a lorlnrii nuilc- 
 lecr, lust in tlu' ni,^ht aiiil rain; Imt I hear tlu- sound 
 of a iahl and am heartened. Within is some t\'Sti\- 
 ilv. I will o]Hn till' door and join ilio nuTriment.' 
 
 " Wlierriiiion he o[)eiU'd the door, and the Imiwn 
 hear, frantii' now lieeanse of the drnm-d rum-drum ot 
 the little /.;/'/, d-arued out. niueh to the amazement 
 and terror of the muleteer and the muli'. The mule, 
 indeed, reared I'rom the heast. slijipnl in the niud, 
 and fell, shalterini'; the Iiunleii of waterdmules he- 
 yonil all hojie of usai.,'e; then bolted like an e\'il 
 s])irit, and was seen no more that n;;4ht, though 
 dilij^ent seareh was made. 
 
 "'Rol)l>er and tliit'f!' eried, the nmletei'r, seizinj; 
 Half-wit 1)V the nape, 'where are my wat.'r-hottles 
 and where is mv mule' ^'ou sh.Jl pay di-arly for 
 this. B\- iiie l'roi)liet, I will take yoi.i to Damascus 
 and there optain iud;..,Mnent a,L;ainsl _\'ou!' 
 
 "Nor would lu' wait one moment to depart, hut 
 made ;.^ooil his 'old on the poor 1 la If- 'it, and set out 
 for the city in the rain. 
 
 '"It is true," sit;hed Half-wit, as they went, 'that 
 the liear fri;_;litened \our mule, and, iherefiirc all this 
 
 13' 
 
. ' 
 
 GO IXC. DOWX FROM JERUSALEM 
 
 (lania;4c. 1 will i;i> with you U> Damascus U> hoar 
 tlu' iu(l:^nm"nt of the Cadi, for I am much interested 
 in this intricate pmMem. Now,' said he, 'which is 
 at fatilt, the nuile or the muleteer, the bear or the 
 poor Half-wit!* We cannot punish tlte bear, which 
 has escaped to the n-iountains, nor yet the niule, 
 which was, of course, frii;htened by the bear; nor yet 
 can we ])unish the muleteer, wIkj opened the door in 
 conh('ence. There is nothin,y for it, then, but that 
 the Half-wit must suffer.' 
 
 "Thev came .it last to Damascus, where for his 
 inifjuity Half-wit was thrown into a i)rison most 
 vile; but while there he lani^uished, awaitini,^ the 
 pleasure of the Cai'i, there came to him a young 
 lawvcT of the town, to whose sharp ears the news of 
 this unprecedented predicament had come. InLo the 
 care of this man Plalf-wit committed himself, and 
 next mornin- went with him to the trial of the case, 
 at which the lawyer bc;-:an at once in accuse the 
 muleteer in no untiualified way. 
 
 '"You rascal!' cried he, to the astonished mule- 
 tirr, 'where is this man's trained bear? You un- 
 riirhteous, thievinsjj scoundrel! what have you done 
 \:\l\\ this man's trained bear? Are you so heartless,' 
 cried he, 'that you W(Xild separate these lo\-ing 
 friends? Will you feed this man the l)read you have 
 filched from him? \ 'ill you give him the mctaliks 
 he was \ised to gathering, or will you cast him, for- 
 saken and shred of his dear companion, upon the 
 compassion of an unkind world?' 
 
 132 
 
 i 
 
HAl, 1--\VIT OF I. !• B A X () .\ H I 1. 1. S 
 
 "By lliis (Icchimation the wisi' Cuii (if Damascus 
 was S(i iniivc<l tliat hv iniini.''lialcly l',^\i' jud^nK'Ut 
 ill fa\'<ir of poor Half-wit. 
 
 " ' Voii rascally imik'li'LT!' sai'l lie, '\<ni will ])av 
 this yi Kir fi Mil one tlumsand piastres for llie loss "f his 
 trained liear or lie with the rohhers in the d unburns.' 
 
 " Thi' muleteer ])aid tli'.' Hah'-wit tlie nionev, .Ljlad 
 to 1h' rid of the diflieulty at any cost; an<l Half- wit, 
 wear}' of travel in a covetous world, returned to his 
 own town in the Li'hanon hil's. 
 
 '"I lived here without a mct'ilik,' said he, 'and 
 was calk''! a fool; l.ut now that I am returned with a 
 fortune thev will respect mv wisdom.' 
 
 "And this," Alioosh concluded, whiflini: a cloud 
 of frai,'rant smoke at the moon, "was indeed the 
 outcome of the matter." 
 
 Ilamed, thi' inuktei>r's hoy, cast a hush on the lire, 
 which had Inimed low durin,^ the recital of this loUi^ 
 tale, and a multitude of sparks went roaring toward 
 W\v stars. "This same Half-wit, hein.iL; tln-n in Da- 
 mascus," said he, " was one niijht besought by some 
 roisterers to ilrink. 
 
 "'Come,' cried tht v, 'drink with us!' 
 
 "'I am but a poor fool,' said he. 
 
 '" Neverlheless, poor Half-wit,' tlu'y replied, 
 'come drink!' 
 
 '"Vou drink,' he answerei 
 what I am already. W'hv 
 drink'"' 
 
 'to make yourselves 
 therefore, should I 
 
{,() 1 .\(i DOWN r RDM 1 1: R USA i.i: m 
 
 Tin re \v;i>- ;i Imrst ( 't' lair^hhT from tin omipiiiiy. 
 Tlu' ,in^\uT was in-' >n()Unce(l a i^'xmI answ* r. lii'Kid, 
 the \iam- imilruvr's laic was so warmly oimnirndnl 
 tlial in Ur' llu>h of triumph hv wouM inimolialrly 
 ha\c l)r;4un anotluT, had wi \'usil" ihr cook aii- 
 liiipalnl him. ■•'riuTc is aTiotlur cxalk'nl story 
 (.oiuTrniii- this l!alt'-\vit," he bei^'an; "Init as wi' arc 
 a ciiinpaiiv of MmsIcius ami Christians, I lu'sitatc 
 in tell it." Ih' was itnnir.'.ialcly assured 1>>- lioth 
 parties that we were neither Moslems nor Christians, 
 hut ftllow- tra\e!ler>. i>assin;^ in friendsliip into 
 iv4V])t. "We are a ei imj ian_\-," he insisted, " ol 
 Moslems and Christians, and 1 hi'sitate to tell this 
 tale." iCNciilually persn.ded, h.MweNrr, that we 
 were, e\i'rv "Ue, pr^ " 'f ai^ainst aniiu<isiiy, in so tar 
 as the mere tehin;..; of tales was eoiKH'rned,, ihe enok 
 (himself a Christiani i>roeeeded: " FalliuL^ in witli a 
 eom]»anv of M.ivJrmson a Christi.m fast-day, llall- 
 wit w.is aeeosted with a difiieult iiro'olem, !or it was 
 in ihi' minds of the:~e men to insult him. 
 
 "•()1.st'r\i- that lowdixc-d, man-y do;^, nosin.^ the 
 refuse for \"i\\ thin:.is to eat,' s.iid they, 'and then 
 an.swer us this: is the do^; a edu-i^tian or a Moslem.'' 
 
 "Now, indeed, was Half-wit fallen into a trap of 
 <!ifru-ult\- ami i>i'ri], '"■ .r if he said that the ilo^j wa^ a 
 Cdn-istia.n lu' would in>ult his own relij^ion, and it he 
 s.iid that it was a Moslem he would l)e heaten lo 
 death.. So he cU'l-elled. Ids wits, such as hj had, ami 
 presentiv was ready with the answer. 
 
 '"1 hav(- no opinion in this Tnatter,' said he. 
 
 'J4 
 
 i 
 
II A \A- - W IT Ol' 1. liBA .\0.\ II I I. LS 
 
 ' W'lKthrr Ihr <\n'^ is ;i Cliristian "V a Mnsh-m, il is 
 liLyoiii] iiK' 1(1 tell, lifiiii; (iiily a tmil, Iml ( kiiuw a 
 way (if (Irlcrniiiiin.i'; ihc linilh. It is ikiI a (lil'licull 
 iikIIkhI, and as 1 am iiuuh inliTostcd in llu' ])nil)l(.'in 
 (if this (l(i,L,''s r(.'Ii,i;i(in, 1 slmuld like l<i sec.' it trii'd. 
 Is not this a Fridax-'" \\'r_\- i^ddd; it is a I'riday. 
 The day is pi^ qiitii ms hir the trial. Tlimw ihc d(i_i4 
 a ])!('(.'(.• (if mi;at.' 
 
 " Tlu'V demanded an cxplanati' i!i. 
 
 "'It is a fast-dav df the Christians,' answered 
 Half-wit. ' If the dog eats the meat, he is surely no 
 Christian.' " 
 
 There was no raneor in the laughter whieh greeted 
 the conclusion of the cook's excellent story. 
 
XXV 
 
 A DHSl-.K'l' l)i:i'KCTTVn 
 
 CAMl-: i.ilk <■!' 'U'MTl tiMvrl ;in(l camcl-thicvinc;: 
 llu' laiur an Ik .iiwral.k- occupation anion.L,' the 
 Hclouins— the cn\ialilc achievement, indeed, to 
 which the vonlh ci ihe trihcs aspire and are taught 
 and hardene.L Ah. the l.hick Sornhmese corporal 
 t"roni El Arish, th.n enteitaincd the company !)>• re- 
 lating a curious experience, concerned witli the read- 
 ing of footiirints, wheri-'in there appeared to much 
 advanla;^'e a detective ol th^se i)arts. "When the 
 camel-droves were last passin;^ over this routi' into 
 Iv^vpt tor sale," said he, "four Bedouins of some 
 beggarly trihe to the south tliieved ten of a mer- 
 chant's three hun-ircil beasts, the tiling being ac- 
 complished in the night, one day's journey from this 
 well. I'rom VA Arish, in answer to the man's cmn- 
 plaini, 1 was sent with a small company to recover 
 the camels; and there went wuh us to follow the 
 tracks a wise oM man jiosscssing the knowledge of 
 /'/;;; t7 uthr. or the science of footindnts. who is em- 
 ploved by the I-:.iglish for ao other purpose. 
 
 "• Here,' said the merchant, when we came to his 
 encampment, 'are the hoof-prints of one of my ten 
 camels.' 
 
 i3(^ 
 
A DESKRT HE TECTIVE 
 
 " ' I obs(.TVt',' said the wise Bt'douin, ' that yoti have 
 come from El Hamad, The camel is a mak, not 
 vet two vears nld ; he is afllietfd in the hri'ast, and 
 will die, if hanl ilri\aii, wilh.in threi' da vs. Show me 
 the traek i 'f anotluT; tluTe is no pmfil in fuUdwin;,; 
 this, for our seareh would er.d in the lli^ht nt vult- 
 ures.' 
 
 '"How can you know ihisr'' demanded the mer- 
 chant. 
 
 "'There is no merit in the ])ower to know,' an- 
 swert'd tiie stu(h'nt "i ihn cl athr. 'The tiling.; is 
 plainlv written in the saml.' 
 
 " We set out, tlu'ii, on thv traek of a second heast; 
 and ha\-in^r travelled two days, wc- came upon a y( mng 
 camel, rising two years, afilicted in the breast, aban- 
 dimed. and dvin.^. For four days more, the Bedouin 
 beini.; afoot, we followed the hoof-prints of the second 
 camel; and though some wind blew (but no rain 
 falling,') — tlaoui^'h the stolen camels had been driven 
 deviouslv, and, sometimes, over travrlled routes — 
 we eventually encountere<l the \-ery camel of which 
 we were in search, feedini^ with the herd of this 
 begs^'arly southern tribe. 
 
 "'This,' said the wise Bedouin, 'is one of your ten 
 camels; now do you chouse out the others for your- 
 self.' 
 
 " But the merchant was doubtful. 
 
 '"It is true,' said he, 'that this is my cam.el, for I 
 obser\-e that he is marked with the wasm of the place 
 whence I had him; but mv ten cameb are no more 
 
(1 () I \ ( -. DO \v X F R o M J i: k r S A I, I- M 
 
 ill, 111 ;i lliirtulli ]i,irt <>( in\- thnr '.uimlrfl, ;inii linw 
 sti.ill 1 kiiMW Uinn il tlirs ap' 'm.' ni.irkc'i'' 
 
 " ■ Thni," sai'l tlu' HnlMiu.:, ■ I nuisl aiiswrr t'^r \nnr 
 licljilfssiu'ss and liml ymir ran,<.'ls.' 
 
 •■'riuA- Wrl't iM'^rlhrr nil" the ilcscrl, wtuTc the 
 lirpls <>i the tnlifS Wire pa^tunn;,^ , aiid tli'Tc the 
 I^'ilduin Icnkiiv^ I'm- ii' . :.\i.uii, Imt i ihsci \ ni:: nnl\- 
 hijof-i)rints siliH-icd rii^lil lirasls, whirl ■■•\r'!, iii- 
 ,K.,d, III lie tlu' sImIch c-mifls, rarh liriii.u m.-rkid 
 with llir -uUi^nnA the \)ln-v wluiicr the iiKi\haiU had 
 thrin. Il is all a in\strr\-." All ,■( .niludrd. "I do 
 not kiinw how he inaiia-i d llu- ihiii-, lit' luld inr 
 il was 1)\- nil' Ills nf a snciuT. uhuh imisl \k- lauijhl ; 
 1)111 lu- WMuld III a trarh nu', thmi!;!! I askfd him." 
 
 " Tlu' Bfdt mills huvv a i>ru\;(.Tl)," Mustata, llu- 
 cainrl-dri\ar, lail in. "Tlu'V sa\-; A man's fair is 
 liki' his Ifcl." 
 
 •' 1 haw kiii'wn a slu-ik <>\ [hv Soudan," .Mi answcr- 
 fd, smarllv, '■ III trll ihr Irmiicmt' a man fniinhis foct- 
 ]irims, bill lU'Ncr lo ilcscnlii' thr K'lr^lh of his beard." 
 
 Mahiiitiiid, the liiu nuilcU'cT, bursl (nU lau,i,'hin.u; 
 llu-ii all Ihc otluTS, ■■lu.^hl by AliV larl wit. 
 
 "And I," Mustafa insistrd. 'di.iXi.' known a iioor 
 BnlDuin of IIk'Si' ])arls to measure the stature and 
 wei,uht of a nij^'ht robber by his traek." 
 
 "That," said Ali, "is a reasonable thing-- not 
 inai;ie." 
 
 Tliey make a mystery of this obscun- science of 
 footjirints. It is, at any rate, a marvellous thin.L;-, 
 mereh- that, for e.\ain])le (and the tliini; is not only 
 
 i- 
 
A I) i:si': u T I) i;t i:t"i i v i- 
 
 Will kiumii, liut .1 l.miiluir .■Kriinii'Ii-.lniunti, ;i in. in 
 >li,.uM l.c ,iM.' t.. Irll \\li< luc .1 i:iiMrl ( .r .1 w.iU'li n r - 
 wlicllur Irniii .it\- <<y iiiMniitjin, s.in.ly lUsrrt i.r 
 
 iKinl'l-nttMllUil U.l>lt I'V Ulr llilpnut .if Ills tivl . 
 
 tnr llir tnuk, it must l.c Ii'Tiic in nnn.l, is n.it sh-rplv 
 .h'tinc.l, iiMt an .ueiirab' mould, Lul a Uiin^ I'lurnd 
 and nilcn aliimsl oliliUraUd l>y tallin- sand and drill 
 
 ih t'urtluT tlian 
 
 ilust. Tlu' jxiurr, ImwrMT, v;"is mu 
 this; v\-vu to drlirinmin;^ tlu' wci'^ht <il a tamd's 
 load, his phvsical condition, ulutluT pursiu'il or 
 mrrcly in haste; aii.i to discovcriir^, from tlic toot- 
 l^rints of a man. liis tril>f, and wlu'tluT he lias passiil 
 slcallhfully or oiRiily (wlullKr friend or foei. 
 
 There was more talk of lliis, with ihese sniij-le 
 folk, now drawn nearer the lire, list-nin- in awe, as 
 ti.a'^host stor\-. Tlieii one of the eamels the seven 
 were lyin:4 just l.eyoiK. the cirele of fireli^lit rose 
 complainini:. Mustafa's Ahmed slipi)ed away upon 
 his dutv. I'lvsently I licard his i^uttural eawin;^ to 
 i;et the cainrl a.^ain to n^t ; but the hcast wou]<l 
 not down, and must be beaten- the boy nieanwluk' 
 ir.outhin.u s^reat curses. I wandered that a bem^' so 
 small should without peril to himself strike a creat 
 urc like this with his fist, contintiin^ all the time 
 within reach of teeth and hoofs. 
 
 ■• I will tell the Wunea/./." replic.l Mustafa, "a most 
 curiotis and interesting Ihintj about this." 
 
 Ahmed had mastered the camel, antl now came 
 to hi'j place. 
 
 169 
 
[l 1 
 
 G O I X G DOW X i^ R O M J E R U S A L E M 
 
 ''Thf kh(i-.i\iia lias ubscrvnl." Mustafa omtinueil, 
 "that a cliild may heat and coinn^and a camel. It 
 is not because the camel is stu])id, nor yet l)ecause 
 he is timid; it is because of a wise provision whereby 
 God suited hitn to the weakness of men. The camel's 
 eves are like maL;nifyinij;-glasses, atid increase the 
 statun.^ of uis master st'ven times: wherefore he is 
 obedient to this (jiiZantie-ai^pearint^ creature." 
 
 In Damascus, too, I heard this supeistition. 
 
 The i/rave Beilouin from beyond Damascus, who 
 had listened with risin,c; interest and s:^eniality, now- 
 contril)uted S(nnethin,i^ to the instruction of the com- 
 pany, as if wishiii^ to liear himself like a man in the 
 eveniuL^'s entt.'rtainnient. She-eanie''s, he said, are 
 foster-mothers to the mares f>f the desert where he 
 dwelt. A mare, said he. is the ehiefest possession of 
 the sheik, and also his most troublesome burdt^n; 
 and a sheik with a wife in addition, as the pro\-erb 
 has it, lives to re^jret hi^ riches, beint!; much woiried 
 by the ills of both these delicate crea.tuies. Lackin,^ 
 S^'rass, the sheik's horse is not sustamed by the desert 
 herbs and bushes, upon which the camel thrives — 
 not ;4reen and succulent fodder, but a jjrowth dry and 
 grav and often thorny. The horse must be fed with 
 milk, which she drinks with impatient relish, so that 
 to foster everv desert rnare is assiijnefl a milch-camel. 
 \Vhen the camels l;o to farther ]"iastura<j;e, the horse 
 must accompany them; and upon loni,^ journeys cam- 
 els must be taken, not onl\- to provide milk, but to 
 
 140 
 
A ! ) E S !■: R T D E T E C T I \' E 
 
 bcrir water as \w\\. a canicl's-loai] < if watiT sufficiiv^ 
 liic horse, il is sai'l, fnr Iml l\v<i days. The sheik's 
 satisfactiiiii, h<)\ve\er, is an ailequate c(im]iensati< 'H. 
 It rcsiiks iiwt onlv in tlie jiri^le i>f jxissession. l)Ut in 
 a mure pactieal ami \v(irlh\- IhinL' -security and 
 t^reater elticiency in warfare. The camel is a stuji'.d, 
 hmiberipjj;, slov, ni<i\'in!^ heast; the mare is botli 
 i^allant and clever, quick t<> wheel, ready to charge, 
 swift in retreat thnnrjjh sliort distances. A sheik 
 .^oes to battle with a led mare, which he will not have 
 burdened evon with his armi>r; he motmts her only 
 when the en;j;a>:;ement is imminent — the enemy in 
 view, steel harness ])Ut on in t1ie ancient tashion, the 
 ancient wca})on, swordi or lon,:^^ S])ear, ready 1o the 
 
 umu 
 
I I 
 
 XXVI 
 
 THE MACU'AI. MATCH 
 
 THE informini:; recital of thr iimvc Bedouin, to 
 whicli \hv comi)any had listcnol with deepest 
 attention, was now suddenly interrupti'd by the 
 janj^lin*,^ nf ;t mule's bell and a .^reat hullabaloo. Our 
 eirele broke and sjiread lau;j;hin:j; iVoni the fire; and 
 into the liij;ht sjirang a small tii^ure, \cA by a halter 
 in the hands of Rachid, and wearin,:^' a irreat ablui of 
 sheejjskin ii\erhead aaid a bell about the ieek. 
 
 "What's this'" Aboosh demanded. 
 
 "It is the Half-wit of the Leban<ni hills," cried 
 Rachid, ■'eome to entertain the klbii.'aji! with his 
 trained bear!" 
 
 IVoceeded then this hilarious entertainment, to 
 tile accom])animent of such a joyous noise of bell and 
 shoutin<,' and lau;j,hter as had ne\-er bt'fore. I fancy, 
 amazed the solemn desert of those ])arts. " La, la!" 
 sanir Rachid; and Ahmed, the canicbboy, reared 
 arid danced and tumbled tmtil he was breathless, 
 whereupon he stood on his head, his lean, vilceruted 
 little le,us stickir.ii straitzht '■{> in the hreli.^ht. Ik- 
 was itrest'utly standini:; before the kJurwdi^i, cryin;;,% 
 '■ Bihhslursh! backsheesh'" but. therewith provided, 
 
 142 
 
Tim MAGICAL MATCH 
 
 still remained, cruvini,^ (as he said) a boon. " Yester- 
 day," he besought, "when the U'auxijj, ridini; his 
 liorse, passed the canieis in the mid -<.l.iy Ileal, and the 
 eamel-boys were worn, each boy clnigirisj; U, the t;iil 
 of liis camel, the khawaja rode slowly to <"onverse. 
 The IJiawaja will remember because he laughed when 
 the red rooster crowed in the crate on the back ot 
 my camel. ' .\re ynu nnt tired?' said the k> 7.\ija. 
 I answered, 'I am not tired.' 'You ha.^ walked 
 far in the sand,' said he; 'are you not tired?' I an- 
 swered again, 'I am not tired.' F'or the third time 
 the klnni\i]\: ]>ut tlu' qui'Stion, and for the third time 
 1 answen'd, 'I am not tired.' 'For this cheerful 
 behaxior,' said the hhnuaja, 'I will once again vork 
 the magic of the match v.hcn the <lay's journey is 
 owr.' But the kJhih\iiti forgot; and now has come 
 till' second night, and he has still forgotten." 
 
 I'ortunati'ly, tin- imkind h irget fulness was not 
 hard to remedy; the klia.raJLi gathered them all near, 
 and lurnid gra\'e and (Hstant , and smoothed tln' sand, 
 all ill i)ri'])ani1 ion for the magical feat of The Match 
 That Cannot Uv Broken. The desert had by dus 
 time retmv.cd to its ancii'ut solemnity — a silence so 
 dei'p and wide and old diat the small crackling of 
 the lire was like an irn'ligious dist jrbance. 
 
 "A luciid''," promised the A7/<;;ci;ya, "to the one 
 who surprises the secret." 
 
 The attention was tr.igically earnest. 
 
 "Now," the khiia'tihi oegan, Aboosh interpreting 
 the patter as fa'-t as it fell from the khamij^i's lii'S, 
 
 14.1 
 
tW > I X C. f ) () \V N F R () M J E R U S A L E M 
 
 h i 
 
 " I ii,i\c hero a handkerchief. The cws of the clever 
 Ahmcil will tell him that it is an empty hanilkerchief. 
 Observe, Ahnied, that I shake it. I lake it l)y the 
 ciirners, Ahmed, and shake it. I sliow you this side 
 — 1 show vou the other. And now, haviii<( con- 
 vinced you that the handkerchief is empty, I spread 
 it f)n the s.ind, here in the wry brii^htest of the fire- 
 lii,dit. Keep watch. A }}U'iidi tf> the dili<;cnt ob- 
 server ! Mahnmud will i^dxe me a match. Ahmeil 
 will hims<.'lf take the match in his very own hand.s 
 and disci '\cr that il is a match like any other match. 
 Ill' will with this ]>encil mark the match with some 
 'u\}sm of his own invention. But the kluuViija 
 touches the match- keep watch! -ano it i;; strai.L^ht- 
 way become the magical match that cannot be 
 broken. 1 driiji the maj^ical match u])on the ma}j;ical 
 handkerchief. It is the st'lf-same match. It is the 
 si'lf-saine handkcrchit'f. Dbserw rnv hands; they 
 are cm])ty. Kee]> watch — a Viiciidi to the dilitjent 
 observer. I roll u]) my sleeves. There is still noth- 
 in,a; in my hands. I fold this corner of the hand- 
 kerchief over the tnatch. I fold another — and the 
 third, ami the fourth. And now Ahmed will with 
 Ids own liands find the match in the folds of the 
 handkerchief and lircak it in halves. Listen! The 
 tnaii;ical match is broken. You have heard il crack 
 between the finders <if Ahmed. But it is a magical 
 match; and, behol<l ! I unfoM thi' handkerchief, and 
 th(' maeical match, marked with the ivasm of Ahmicd, 
 done with his very own hands and of his very own 
 
 144 
 
THE MAGICAL MATCH 
 
 iin'cntion, is not broken: nor is therr anotlior match 
 anywhiTc to be discovered! It is a mystery!" 
 
 "A dovil-match!" ejaculated tlie grave Bedouin, 
 starting liack in religious horrf)r. 
 
 "Wcllah!" groanetl Mahmoud, "I am In iovilled 
 again!" 
 
 The others were amazed beyond utterance of any 
 sort — -save this little Ahmed, who emitted what may 
 be likened to a gurgle of delicious fright. The second 
 match, of course — the match which Ahmed had 
 liroken — was concealed in the hem of the hand- 
 kerchief; but not one of them fathomed the simple 
 mystery, which was alwa\s to them a bewildering 
 delight. Xor in a coffee-house in Damascus, n-hcre 
 tile kliaii'iiia i)erf(irmed tlir wonder, late of a night 
 before tlu- ])ilgrimag(\ did these wiser folk ha\e Ix'tter 
 success. "Why go to .Mi'cca.'" said a ])ious camel- 
 driver of the pilgrims; "for ha\-e we not here a 
 I^rophet ?" 
 
 "A feat!" cried Mustafa. "I, too, will perform 
 a feat!" 
 
 We made a ring in the moonlight — and fell siknt 
 and watchful while the old fellow gra^•e]v wound 
 his skirt about his middle. An athletic performance 
 — evidently some mighty acrobatic feat of the desert! 
 
 "Observe!" said .Mustafa. 
 
 Our attention deepened; and Ahistafa — having 
 bowefl with much politeness to the company — 
 turned a somersault! 
 
 MS 
 
(;()i.\(; Dowv I'koM |i;ri's.\i.bm 
 
 "CaU'h nu!" sliDuted the y<nm,m.'r khu'iCititi. IIcit 
 was a hmiiliar i^miiic; the challenge, though siK.km 
 in I'viiijHsli, iR'fcli'd iiM interpretation. They reached 
 to seize hini; hut the xount^er klunvaja leaped frntn 
 the quick hands of the \)V^ muleteiT, dodged thi' eat- 
 springof the Soudanese, hulti ted Alioosh, overturned 
 the Heilouiii, and darted nff into the nioonhght with 
 a wlioop hke a shriek of a disappearing locomotive. 
 They were after him in a tlash— a yelping, giggling, 
 hallooing, guffawing pac-k, leaping over the moonlit 
 sand like shadows with half-fledged wings. Wcllah! 
 Imt the loosed (k'light of that pursuit — the triumph 
 of the capture! Then must the lleet AH be caught, 
 the l)lack, lean-le;,!ged Soui'anese, which was not hard 
 1o do at all, for at the barest touch he screameti and 
 collapsed like a tickled girl. The younger kha'u'aiu 
 must take Ahiricd on his shoulders, ai 1 the small 
 Abdullah lie mounted on the gigantic Mahmoud ; 
 wh.ereupon, a Ii\"eiy tilting, done without mercy — 
 ending in the downfall of both. Rmg-around-a-rosy 
 — and the ilesert fairly groaned from the \'igor of the 
 sfjuatting! Bull-in-the-ring — a mad success! Crack- 
 the-whip — and the climax of earthly joy was achiev- 
 ed. \Vc put the camel-boys on the end of the line; 
 we sent them tumbling head over heels -niUing Ovcr 
 the soft sand like rag balls— far into the farther 
 moonlight. WclLih! but they would be cracked 
 again. By the Prophet! the thing must be done. 
 And we cracked them with such i(^yous fervor that 
 we never expected to sc-e ihem more. 
 
 i4(> 
 
 ^" 
 
the; grave beoouin departed 
 
f. I 
 
THE MAC.ICAI. MATCH 
 
 In the ui)roar of lauKhU-r I imt inv liaiid on thr 
 shouMcr <)1 Ahnir.!. "Ar' you ;iai)i)y.'" 1 askci. 
 
 "I5y Go<i!" 1k' swore, his haixls clirKhr.! with 
 earnestness, "Imt I am hap])v!" 
 
 Mustafa damore.l to t.e eraeked- for the very joy 
 sai.l he, i,i this swift fh^ht. \\\. in<Iul.L,H<i Mustafa; 
 we put Ahistafa where lie craved to he, and we -rip- 
 \m\ hands with a new and mi.^htier ^'rip, and we ran 
 faster, ant' farther, and \w turned more ahru])t!y, 
 and we cracked the old .gentleman clean out of si^'ht 
 over the riili^e of a sand-drift. 
 
 "By Mohammed!" he screamed, rcturnin.^; "hut 
 there is a deep hole in the desert where I ahVhtnl!" 
 
 And with this the eveninj^'s tntertainnient came 
 to an enu. 
 
 It was time to turn in. The j:;rave Bedoum had 
 departed upon his journey, ha\inj.^ i^iven i-.s farewell 
 with many complin.ents. The camp had disposed 
 itself to sleep. The fire was burned out. All the 
 desert lay silent un<ler the tr )on. There was no 
 rustle of the pahn leaves, no chirp or stirrinj^ any- 
 where; the whole world— to its uttermost reaches- 
 was^ still. 1 walked with the youn,i?er khawaja to 
 smoke to the camels— the last employment of our 
 da>'. Presently he looked about upon the forms of 
 our people and guest of the ni,^ht. 
 
 "These fellows are hapjjy," said he. "I think," 
 Ik' added, "that we have found a i^'ood way n) tra\el." 
 
 i thought so to(). 
 
 '47 
 
XXVII 
 
 I 
 
 A \vni;-ni;c.()\H pof.t 
 
 TllF.Rl^ came, i>ncr, a thick, hot ilawn: no rosy 
 culi.r in tlic cast -no codl tint nr stirring of the 
 air. Wlio liad been usdl to the refreshment and 
 chi'erful expectation of the morning had now no 
 spirit f<ir the road. We lahored into a salt-marsh, 
 most foul and desolati', a dreary place, lyin>4dead 
 under a sullen sky: slimy pools, listless rushes, a 
 ervtst of sallv nnul, throu;4i which our horses lloun- 
 dered, l)rcakin;4 nowand ai^ain to their hellies. When 
 we came airain to the sand, a breeze was hlo'vint,' 
 from the east, but Lrou.uht no relief, beini; hot and 
 dry, as from an oven. It rose (juiekly to a t^^alc of 
 wiml. The air was all at once dusty and unpalatable; 
 th'' encompassing hills disap])eared in a mist ot 
 driv(.'n sand —the road vanishe*! beneath out feet. 
 
 Presently, the wind still risint,', there was not a 
 hoof-])rint to be descried; the desert was trackless: 
 we were hajilessly — even ])erilously— lost. The m )ise 
 of the i^alc — a swish and shriekini;, as at sea— was a 
 eonfusin.g eommotion, and the llyint,^ sand choked 
 aad stunp an<l blinded us. There was nothin.g t • be 
 seen in the fo;^ ,,f dust but the nearer hills — smoking 
 
 148 
 
A \\()i:- B E(;() X E POET 
 
 like crcstol seas in a hurrii'anr — wliiili llu' wiml was 
 shaping aiR'W. For iMurs wr waiidrnd wrslwanl, 
 ur^itiL,' the lurvdus, omiplaiiiini,' hrasls in thi.' diivc- 
 tittn of water, wliich wc iiiiKlit ti"t liopc to find, since 
 at best the well was no more than a speck in tliat 
 wiMi-rness. 
 
 In the late afternoon we sta^j^ered by chance into 
 a deep ;^nilly, with the wind houlini:; oxerliead; and 
 in tliis sheltered sjiot Alioosh f. >un(; the hoof-prints of 
 the road — faintest depressions, almost olditerated by 
 fine sand sifting fr<>"i above IK it, too — .and to our 
 amazement —wt' encountered a Mecca pilgrim, (;n 
 his haunchi'S, his head wra])i)rd in a iiiaiule, waiting 
 with religious patience for the storm to pass. The 
 wind fell then, and the hea\-y sand-fog immediately 
 settled; and following the pilgrim's directions (he 
 had cf)me from Kantara)— deijcnding some'vhat, too, 
 upon the configuration of the desert for giudance — 
 we came, by happy fortune, to the well oi Googaa 
 long after sunset 
 
 I caught Rachid sitting worn and downcast at the 
 edge of the palm grove, aixirt from the tents. 
 
 "Here," sai<l 1, "is a disconsolate adventurer!" 
 
 " We draw near the end of our journey," he replied, 
 "and 1 think of a misfortune that has befallen me." 
 
 "Of what did you think when the sand was l)low- 
 ing and we were lost.'" 
 
 " Of the goodness of AlKiosh, the excellent khauvja, 
 who gave me his horse to ride." 
 
 My 
 
MICROCOPY RESOLUTION TEST CHART 
 
 ANSI ond ISO TEST CHART No 2, 
 
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 -= APPLIED INA^GE Inc 
 
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(. ( J I X ( j DO \V X F ROM j E R U S A I. E M 
 
 'f 
 
 " ( )t' ni)thin;4 else?" 
 
 "Slill," ht' rcpliol, "of my misfnrlunc. 1 am like- 
 the pious Mwhammnian who praycil air one luin- 
 (hxvi pii'Ci-'S of .U'olil," lu- ] >ri R I. (.'I let I . " Ilr coiicuiwi! 
 himself to lie of that (jualit_\- of lioline/s which opens 
 the heart of Goil to ever_\- prawr. 
 
 ■"1 desire,' said he, 'one lumdreil pieces of i^niM; 
 wherefore 1 will pray for it, and presently I shall 
 receive the '^\il > if ewrx' piiistrc' 
 
 "ThereuiKin he prayed both ni.Ljhl and day, lie- 
 seechiiii,' with dili.^eiice, lait received no ijift of gold 
 f n mi lleaxen. 
 
 '"I will not desiiair,' said he; 'still will 1 continue 
 to pra\-, and, cwtitually my piety shall lie rewarded.' 
 
 " For a vear, it is related, his ])raver ascended con- 
 tinuouslv; and liy this time, so constant had he lieeii, 
 the habit of ])ravin;4 f< ir oni' hundred ])ieces ot gdld 
 possessed him so that he praved uj^oti e\ery occa- 
 sion, '() i.ord, send me one hundred ])ieci.'S of gold!' 
 Tio matter where he mi^L^lil be. One da\', sitting in 
 the shade of a liigh wall, hv besought the Lord, as 
 was his custom. cr\-ing: '() ivonl, giw me one hun- 
 dred pieces of go](ll () Lord, send me one hundred 
 l)ieces of gold from llea\-enl' Listead of (Hie hun- 
 dred pieces of goM falling fmm the hea\ens, the wall, 
 in the shade of which he rested, tumbled down upon 
 this pious Mohammedmi: whereu])on, as it is related, 
 he got up from the dust, and, haxing lifted his hands 
 to the skv, cried, in great inddgnation : 
 
 for one hundred pieces ot gold, and 
 
 nra\eil 
 
A u u li^ B i:(i() .\ !•: i'(j 1':t 
 
 h;;\c been oN'tTcome l)y tlu' descent <>!' nnr hu'^ircd 
 cruellv fallini:; l')ricks frnm llu' wall thai I ln;.>tc(l; 
 therefore I will ne\er ])ray ai^'ain.' 
 
 "Does the klhra'dja recall the shore of the sea lU'ar 
 El Arish," Raehid continued, "where the tenls wt're 
 jMtched 1)>- the date-palms, and the khah'djii drank 
 tea bv the ver\- wax'es, where ids poor servant had 
 placed the little table' Ah, but I wished that we 
 nnu'ht tra\t'! the desert no jcmuer, but forevir stay 
 near the sim ; and I prayed nmst dilij^a^ntly for one 
 thousand ,uolil napoleoi s. so that I initiht forever 
 maintain the khaiCiiia and all his ser\ants in that 
 ]ilace. I am like llu' ]H)or pious M ihanmiedan of 
 ttie fade," he continued ;" for. thou,L;h 1 prayed lustily 
 for the ijold, when I went into the water t<> wash the 
 shell of the tortoise whiclt the yountjer klia:i.'aia had 
 <^iven to the cook to boil clean, not only did I fmd 
 no p\u"se of _uold on the shi ire. Init lost the three 
 coi^iier Ihshli'.'s that I had. which sli])i)ed through a 
 hole in my ])ocki-t." 
 
 " It is a grave misfortune." said 1. 
 
 " Xow," he added, looking u]). a wiK^diegnne poet, 
 indi'ed. " I am come near a strange city, and have not 
 a lucLillih to my name." 
 
 "Conud" said 1 ; "ha\'e vou not lii'ard the story of 
 The Diligent Young Darwish n\ Al Husra?" 
 
 Raehid looked up in cheerful expectation. 
 
XXVUl 
 
 THE dili(;k\t yol'nc dakwish of AI. HL'SRA 
 
 THIS story 1 ha.l I'n.ni Ahnicl Asc.l-L'lhih, of 
 Damascus. Ihc writtr of strolls. Froni liis col- 
 lection of niaslcr])icccs he IkkI t.ikcn an example of 
 the art of Al i-^mad al Ihisani Shiraz -a sentence done 
 with a rceil ])en upon i)archnv. nt. " As all words are 
 equally im]>ortant to the expression of the ])erfect 
 poet," said he. " so lure, too. by the art of the perfect 
 writer, no word is exalted above another by improper 
 display. Even so, there is no monotony — an en- 
 gaging, restful variety, indeed, such as the printing- 
 press cannot command. Em])loy this microscope: 
 discover if y<m can a ragged edge to any letter — the 
 broadest shading, the thinnest line. What a jien- 
 maker the man was! With what incredible accuracy 
 he shajied his reeds! Note the grace of curve, the 
 certainty of line; there is no interruption, no failure of 
 svmmetrv, no dex'iation, no sign of wavering. This 
 letter, e.xtremelv removi'd from a similar character, 
 Init not differing a hair's - breadth! This broken 
 oval— perfected by an imaginar\ line! Thi^ arc, a 
 mere fragment of ihc whole, but yet suggesting the 
 perfect circle! This accent, perfectly set within its 
 
 152 
 

 
 AHMEO A-ED ULLAH 1 H !: V.RITER OT SCrJOLL; 
 
Till' YOVSC, DARWISH OF A L BTSRA 
 
 alldtti'il si)aci'--" And llic oM man raUk^J on until 
 his breath taik-d. 
 
 1 askfd liini whcncr he had the ancient scrap of 
 writing. 
 
 " \\V liave in Damascus a ])r()vcrl)," hi- answered: 
 "He who seeks with diligence shall find. I will an- 
 swer yc^ur question Ijv telling a storv. A young 
 Darwish of Al Busra, having come to D,amascus 
 upon some pilgrimage, fell in love with the daughter 
 of a rich sheik, whom he y)assed in the street. Over- 
 come by passion, he followed the girl to her father's 
 house, where, bold beyond belief, he knocked on 
 the gate, and was presently admitted to the sheik's 
 presence. 
 
 "'I have come,' said he, 'to ask the hand of vour 
 daughter.' 
 
 "The sheik laughed heartily. 
 
 " ■ He who would have the hand of my daugh- 
 ter,' he replied, 'must bring rich gifts to urge his 
 suit.' 
 
 "By this scornful behavior the poor Darwish of 
 Al Bursa was not discouraged, but with good heart 
 asked the (juality of +he gift he must offer. To be 
 rid of him the sheik set him an impossible task. 
 
 '"Fetch to me,' said he, 'the stone that is more 
 precious than diamonds.' 
 
 "To this the Darwish agreed, and, having borrow- 
 ed two buckets from the kitch"n. set out upon his 
 quest, followed by the laughter of the sheik and all 
 his servants. When he had traversed the desert to 
 
 '53 
 
G n I X G n o \v X f i< o m j e r u s a l f. m 
 
 till' soulh, he CMI11C ;i1 last !■• tlu' Knl Sea, when lor 
 t wi 1 nmnths he dili.m'iilK' t'lii]!!! ivnl his Inkkils, lie- 
 lic'viiii; llial a sliiiic of ricli ] rii'c nmst In- dimply 
 hiilili'ii. Mail as he iniL;hl, \\v inadf iio iniprcssinn 
 u])on ihc sra, InU i-i intiiuuil jiatii-'nlly lo liail. When 
 six months had passed luo ibserxcd ihat the water was 
 as hii;ii as v\rv. Not disheartened, however, he re- 
 newal his dilimiue, until, at the end of two years, 
 one dav when the tide was out he eame uiK>n a cu- 
 riovis stone, which he In liewd must be the stone the 
 rieh sheik di sired. So, traxellinj,' in hi}.,di hope, he 
 eame a;4ain lO Damaseus, and was admitted to the 
 sheik's ]iresenee, rat^'j^atl as he was, and there related 
 his ad\entures. 
 
 ■■'Xow,' said he to the sheik, "I liave brought 
 you the stone that is more preeious than diamonds.' 
 
 "The sheik took the stone, and ])ereeived that it 
 was a common stoiK — a mere pebble. 
 
 '"In exehaniLie,' continued the Darwish, hopefully, 
 ' I shall have the jewel that is better than all.' 
 
 '■'By Allah!' cned the sheik, 'such diligence 
 should be rewarded !' and immediately gave the hand 
 of his daughter to the diligeiit young Darwish of Al 
 Busra. And so," concluded Ahmed Ased-UUah, 
 "ha\-ing sought with diligence an example of the 
 genius of Al Emad al Hasani Shiraz, I am rewarded 
 in its possession." 
 
 I pointed the moral anew. "He who seeks with 
 diligence shall find," said I to Rachid; "though you 
 
 154 
 
rill-: \ou.\G DARwisn oi- a i, hlska 
 
 havr iioi .1 iiutiillik to your luniir, you in;iy \v[ possess 
 a forturiL'." 
 
 "Docs the klhVi'ajti not know another storv?'" ho 
 aski'il. 
 
 I perceived that, like a ehilil, he loxci] a tale, liut 
 re.uardei] a mora] with distaste; and to dehi;ht liiin I 
 said that I would lell the stories of Ahmed el Niri/i 
 and The U^ly Writer of Teheran, which also I had 
 from Ased-UUah, of Damascus, the writer. 
 
XXIX 
 
 THE UGLY Wklll.K oi' TF.IIKKA:^ 
 
 •fOXG ago," Ahmed Ased-Ullah hopin. in Da- 
 L* rndscus. "thiTc was a writer, Ahmed el Niri/.i, 
 who, havin.L^ arraytd himself as became a man of his 
 fame, set out ujion a jouriKv to thi- country "fa power- 
 lul sheik (.f Xrjd. hut was unhappily set upon hv 
 Bedouin roh'u'rs in llie mountains between. .Strijipi'd 
 t<) his shirt, dispossessed of all that he had exeei.it 
 his ink and Ins jiaprr, which lie had fortunately con- 
 cealed, he still proceeded t^ the city of the sheik, 
 hoping there to find favor sufllcient tnr his re-estab- 
 hshmcnt, but was denied at thi' door of the sheik's 
 palace because of his scanty a])parel and beggarly, 
 woebegone air. Day after d'ay, h< Avex'er, l.e renewe'd' 
 his request, insistently rejieating, notwithstanding 
 the scorn nf the sheik's men, that he was Ahmed el 
 Xirizi, the writer, until at last, in order that his im- 
 I'ortunity might be stoj^j.cd, he was received by the 
 sheik's eldest son, t<i whom he told the tale of his 
 misfortunes. 
 
 "'What!' cried the sheik's son, in amazement. 
 ' Here, surely, is an impudent impostor. This nakcxi 
 beggar cannot be Ahmed el Xirizi, the writer!' 
 
 J=;5 
 
SPECIMEN Or whitin; 
 
 JCi OF THE PERSIAN SCHOOL 
 ms. r„„;„„ In tl,.. I...v>r I.ft.han.l . ,.rmr rt-a.ls. • Il-m- hv iW- 
 rMist,T. M..h;,m.mM Ra.hi.l, iit:,v CihI foraivr Itim " 
 
"Ahmol c.l Xu-i.i stoutly maiotainui that ^hv 
 sl^.rt uhuh m..ast„-c..| tho licviouins' ..„npa s ., ,1 
 
 PIoas..<I u„I> th.s allitcratu.,. the princ.. mn, 
 mc.c^.„,U,„t.as.n, not convince,/ S,A,;n, 
 tilun.i,^ from Ins 1, fit. sliaiud ,t will, - . ""uuas 
 "K such < arc. as he- cuM an-l uro„. nine, of the 
 " -ty.nn.nan.es c,f Allah. wi,l, a han,, that w a' ^ 
 
 ;:;;''^7'"-''-'''''^'''''-'---..sh,nnc.n.i,,H.X 
 
 .race at„i prop,,,-,,.,,, ,,,,i^.,, ,,,,,.,,,,,,,,,, ,. 
 ;;;;rthean-an,c.n..n..hK.hsnl,K..,.,.,HsUn;;;;r; 
 '"It isuvll.lone.'sai,! llu. sh. ik's s< ,n 'ObscTv.- 
 
 ^^'j; ''l^n,tc..Ishap..nnnc.u-,thnu-(in^vrnair' 
 
 H^.^■^,, tlun iashinnc.,1 a nvl,. instrunn.nt he 
 --te, w,th snnu. art. an onl.r upon his fathe ' 
 treasurer tor hv. h.n.lre.] A,,.,.,,,,, ,„ ,„ ^^„.; , 
 
 whon.soc.ver shouM prescU it, a,).] ,.ao thecxani c. 
 nf his skill to Ahmr,l c'l \in>.i ^^•^•'<"I'-^ 
 
 ^^^'-™ehnoursai,I he/ is the better u-ritin.. 
 
 "Ahmed el Nin-zi had „ot ta.u.uht the sons of a 
 
 ShalH^,rnoth.n, HewasreadyforthepuzJ 
 
 B> all means.' he ansvcvred. dc'Ii^hted with the 
 task, 'yours IS the better.' 
 
 IS7 
 
GOIXCi l)()\V.\ IRO.M JERUSALEM 
 
 '" Is il so?' crii'd the shc-ik's son, enrai^ed 1)y this 
 ilattcry. 'Then,' said hv, withdrawinii; the order 
 from the hand of Ahmed el Xirizi and tearinj,' it in 
 a thousand ])ii,'ees, 'yini shall ])rove it, i t, tiv the 
 I'ni])het. it shall be the worse lor vnul' 
 
 "'As t\vi) are ;j;reater than one,' answeri'd Ahmeil 
 el Xirizi, readih', 'so 's your writing gri'ater than 
 mine.' 
 
 "The prince demanded an explanation. 
 
 '"My writing is beautiful, it is true,' said Ahmed 
 el Xirizi; 'but yours,' he added, tnuehing his heart 
 and lips and brow, ' is bwth beautiful and beneficent.' 
 
 "The sheik's son was so delighted with the al- 
 literation and with the answer," Ahnu'd Ased-Ullah 
 concluded, "that he immediately drew an order for 
 one thousami tomamts and presented it to Ahmed 
 el Xirizi." 
 
 Rachid, much pleased with the tale, demanded 
 the story of The Uglx- Writer of Teheran, which 
 forthwith I related; Aba al Kasem al Darwish, a 
 Persian, who held his skill in higtier reg:ird than his 
 life, and, indeed, had nothing else to esteem, because 
 he !iad no personal attractions, sought a commission 
 from Ali Shah, thinking to establish his fame as a 
 I'ourt writer and in this way be remembered. "If I 
 please the King," thought he, "then, indeed, shall 
 I be famous." It was a bold thir.g to do, and Aba al 
 Kasem was warneii, Iivit continued i>bdurate, deter- 
 mined at wh;ite\-er cost to be reiueinb(.'red. 
 
 158 
 
T n E U G L \' \V R I T E R (J I- T E H E R A X 
 
 "Wiuit!" cried the Shah, when the petition was 
 pn'st'nted. "vShall 1, who ha\e to do with .-soldiers 
 and scholars, sprak with a mure penman"' Dismiss 
 the impertinent fellow! I will ha\e nothing to ilo 
 with a man of so mean an oceui)ation." 
 
 But this unfortunate dispositictn toward the fine 
 arts was presently overcome, and Aba al Kasem al 
 Darwish was admitted to the presence. No sooner 
 had the unhapj))- man entered than the Shah started 
 back with an ejaculation of horror and disgust. The 
 writer was indeed the ugliest of creatures. No grace 
 of the graces of form and feature had been vouch- 
 safed to him, nor, to mend his apjiearance, had he 
 actji.'ircd the least accomplishment of manne*-; so 
 that, indeed, he was m(jre agreeable to the company 
 of camel-drivers than the audience of kings. He 
 was hunchbackefl and hairy, cross-eyed, clubfooted, 
 bandylegged, and his hair fell wild and matted o\'er 
 his shoulders, his beard far lielow his middle, his 
 hands repulsively below his knees. He had nothing 
 to recommend him to the favor of the world but the 
 delicate skill with which he employed his reed pens: 
 and concerning this he knew \erv >vell. 
 
 "This is not Aba al Kasem al Darwish!" cried the 
 Shah. "Conduct him hence. I shall lose sleep on 
 account of him." 
 
 The Shah was informed that this was Aba al 
 Kasem and none other. 
 
 " What !" cried he, covcTing his eyes from th(> sight 
 of the writer's ugliness, "it is impossible! This 
 
 '59 
 
noi.vr, Dowx from Jerusalem 
 
 cannot he Ai.a al Kascn al Uarwish. whose art has 
 >I^'I.,uht.u nie! \hny can th. very perfection of beauty 
 in-(jccc(l Imni a torin so ^drrihk'?" 
 
 "It IS I," Aha al Kasem insisted. 
 
 "Then." (ienian.Ied the Shah, "in Grul's name 
 where were you when God .listrihutcd the x'arious 
 graces ot person.'"' 
 
 "Wlien God gathered the s.jns of ,nen together 
 to recen-e these pretty gifts." said Aha a! Kasem 
 scorntully, ••! ^as husily engaged." 
 
 " G(;t you no sliare.''" 
 ^^^••Ijasahsent/-ansux.edAhaalK^^^^^^^ 
 
 "Unfortunate man!" erie.l the Sliah; " what d-V] 
 
 you hnd to compare witn that which vou have lost "' " 
 
 11 at very perfectiou of hcanivr answered Aha al 
 
 fvasem, c,u,cklv, -of which your Majestv has made 
 
 mention. 
 
 By this the Shall was so dc.liglUe.l that he com- 
 n>ended Aha al Ka.sem's devotion, and commissioned 
 h>m to inscnhe a Koran with such illumination as 
 Had ne\-er heen known liefore. 
 
 Mrl^'"'' r" '"^"'"•" '^'''' ^^^^^hid. "Does the 
 unaaaui not know one more story p" 
 
 "Tim.e passes." I objected. 
 
 ''But tlie khaivaja is washed," he insisted, "and 
 1-Jias has not yet calle.] to suj^per " 
 
 ^;;"''' ^'- ^-'-f The Sh,n ., ate Only Contented 
 
 1 60 
 
XXX 
 
 THE SHIRT OF TIIK COXTEXTED MAX 
 
 THERE was once a Sultan," said I, "who ivU 
 ill, and was greatly distressed 1)\- his ailment 
 which sadly interfered with certain jjlans he had 
 made for the conquest of his enemy. 
 
 '"A physician to cure me,' he cried, 'that 1 may 
 proceed upon my business!' 
 
 The court physician, failing to cure him overni.i^'ht, 
 was decapitated the next morning. 
 
 "'Another!' cried the Sultan; 'and if he fails, as 
 this one, he sh;/! sutler the same fate.' 
 
 "The second pliysieian, sitrnally failing to ease the 
 Sultan's pain before ilawn, lost his head before noon. 
 A third, with remarkable temerity, presented him- 
 self, and vanished from the sphere of his endeaxor. 
 And so it went on, da_\' l)y day, until the kingdom 
 was depleted of physicians, save only one, whr) was 
 sum.moned to the Sultan's presence. 
 
 'Your Majesty is in evil ease,' said he. 'Within 
 my experience I liave met with but one other so 
 grie\ously situated, and he was a donkev-driver. 
 Tfi 1)e cured of vour afifliction,' the physician un- 
 hesitatingly prescril)ed, 'your ?klajesty must sleep in 
 the shirt of a coniented man.' 
 
 I'll 
 
 i'\ 
 
tr 
 
 tioixT. nov;.v prom Jerusalem 
 
 '■ Please,! with tills curious advice, the l,kc of which 
 "" other piiysician had <.lW.l. the Sultan eornmarui- 
 ed seven contented men to he fetched hefore him 
 h.nkin^ to choose a sh.rt in his Hkin^. Hut look 
 li'gh and low, as his ministers , lid, no contented man 
 was to he found in the kingdom; whereupon the im- 
 patient Sultan commande.1 the search to hv carrie<l 
 yet more distantly, e^•en to the desert an,l mountains 
 beyond his domain. After three months, during 
 ^vhich the Sultan sutfercd excruciating pain, a fort- 
 unate emis.sary c'hanced upon an object of the search 
 a contente.1 man, who inhabite<I a wretched caxe 
 m the mountains, and was the most destitute of all 
 the creatures of that ncighborhuod-a hermit ill- 
 nourishe<l, ill-dad, and meanly housc.l 
 
 "•It is true,' said the hermit. ' I am a contented 
 '"an. I POS.SCSS all that I want. 1 lack nothing of 
 my need or dc^sire.' 
 
 "Id'on this admission thev haled him into the 
 presence of the Sultan. 
 
 '"Come,- cried the Sultan, wc-ary of his pain, 'olT 
 with your shirt!' 
 
 "But it W..S unhai)pily true," I concluded, -that 
 tne contented man haa no shirt!" 
 Rachid laughed. 
 
 Uvrc at the WVIl of Googaa was our last camp 
 made m the desert; we should next pitch tents the 
 day avonng our journey, on the bank of the Suez 
 '^anal, at Kantara, whence our followers woul.J iv- 
 
E 
 
 Wfc MADE OU^J ..AMP u, IHE WELL 
 
SiriRT OF TflE COXTEXTH IJ MAX 
 
 turn U> J.Tusalcrn with the caravan by the way we 
 had eoine, leaving us to take train to Cairo. wJ lia.l 
 n(.eanip-fire;thecameM)oysan(I Hained liad search- 
 ed the nearer sand for something t(j I)urn, hui had re- 
 turned emptydianded, the nei,^hborhood having' lon^^ 
 a.uo been swept l)y jtassing travellers. The wind had 
 K"ne d..wn, howe\i'r, and presently the moon was 
 up; and the younger khaa'aja and 1 sat with Aboosh 
 by the door of the tent— and the muleteers and 
 camel-(h-i\ers squatted on the sand— and wc had 
 tra\-t'llcd tar and eompanionably together — and we 
 were comfortable enough (if somewhat melancholy) 
 on this last night alone. Ali Mahmoud, the big 
 muleteer, an<i Mustafa, the camel-driver, demanded 
 to know more of that Abdullah from Ain el Kaum, 
 the rascally camel-trader with wliom the klnr^'aja 
 had fallen in at the khan of the camel-drivers in 
 Damascus on the ni>Ju before the pilgrimage. 
 
 It seemed that the man's rascality was ajipealing 
 to them all. and I indulged them uiih Abdullah's 
 tale of The Camel with the (}]ass Eyes. 
 
XXXI 
 
 TUn CAMin. WITH TMK Of ASS nVFS 
 
 you will n.c.-.ll th:.t ,1k. c.nK.I-tra.lin..^ Al.lullah 
 1 irom Ain.l Kann.. si, : in.^in tlu. lulumv al-.-vr 
 the stahk-yanl , ,f ,],. /,/.,;., ip Damascus. toM th. 
 talent Ilu. I).,, \Vb,,Vh Bit .he Stranu.r an,l that 
 enKak'in,^ st.rv .,f Tl,,- W..!!. an,l Thn.ul H.v- 
 m^ rec,U.,l ,h. la.t.r, 1„. uas s,K.„t for a n.-UK.nt ; 
 ;'":^^^'-'"-^'''^'^'''>^--l>^''<-'-lt-n-wanl. withavain 
 
 '"'^•^"■"'- '■•^'•'^•''•^"'^■nVanLalv.-sai.llu.. con- 
 "I'n^^ly. -onev ,V)1 in l..v. u„h rn.. It was my 
 
 "^;"V- ""'^^ '^" "^■"■''"'"- ''^- il-" H.,v was a 
 ouhsh vanuy-- l.travol t., the uttcTniost in asillv 
 •t e lau,h. "She ]„vc..l nn. vory much," Al.'- 
 
 .|uJ.J. contnnu.l ••an.MvnuMhav.n.e -..Wnca 
 Ml Iut; an,| when [ .l.ni.,] lur, she hau a mark 
 tatl.H >,,„,,„„ „_,.,,,,, •B, this mark.' sai.i she 
 you w,]l know that ,nv loxv is everlasting^ When' 
 
 you come to me, mv lif. uil]lx> resumed: hut if vou 
 hnKcr, I per.sh.' X„ ,,,,,„,;■ Ainlullah conclude,! 
 
 -nhprue, ''she has now perished of her love' 
 
 t ,s a familiar thin,. (I recalD-thc. incident of the 
 adv tourist and the flirtatious Arah-but God 
 knows \vh\-! I had h.-ir,! t-,!,.. r ^u ,• 
 
 Had marl tales of the disagrecvihle 
 .r,4 
 
Til !•: CAM !■ L WIT II Tn i: r. I. ASS I-: ^■ i: s 
 
 mystery -( if {\ir ruin wmu-ht hy it; an^l I mmu as- 
 sumed tlial snmr dilur \V(,iiKin ha,i in.aol pitiaMy 
 fort^ottm Inr race lur llic miiTiieiit, l.ut was now re- 
 vnvvrv<\. iK.l jiensluv] ,,( h,r l..vc, as Abdullah would 
 luiVL' il. Thr thin- was not interest iu.i;- it most 
 melancholv nu\\\ .\\n\vM,h lilted the sUvm^ of his 
 .;/'/'(/ to e\!nl,it the mark of the lady's poor infatua- 
 ti"ii;and then 1 lauLjhe.l, and was dowiieast no more, 
 forth.' mark was as old as Ahdullah's infanev, havin<i 
 Krown with his trrouth, luin:: ii'>w Murred, not cK'ar'^ 
 cut f.f outline, as tatlo,. marks must he if made upon 
 the full-i^'rown person. 
 
 "Tell Abdullah, in ihv most i'le,^ant Arabic at your 
 command," I said to the Interpreter, '-that he is a 
 hearty liar— and a most tii^'a^^'inv' one." 
 
 "It my ser\ice is occasionally inadecjuate," the 
 Interpreter answered, bo\^■in,^, "it shall now at least 
 be abundantlx- sufficient." 
 " Fire away!" said I. 
 
 The Inter])reter was f)ccupied for some time; and 
 at the end of it Abdullah was srnnewhat offended, 
 hut was presently mollified, so that he proceeded to 
 relate the tale of the camel with the f^dass eyes, at 
 which he had previousl)- hinted. 
 
 "In a small villajjo on the Beirut road," said he, 
 " Ir.-es my relati\-e; and soiournin}.,^ once with him, 
 'Ml my way to Damascus, with Hassan, mv son. I 
 encountered a camel - and loved it. My admira- 
 tion, khawajti, was like a ie\-T consuming me; and I 
 
 165 
 
'■'>\Si. lu>\\ \ I Ko.M jl.Krs.M.I. 
 
 .M 
 
 musUiavc. that cam.l, I k,u u , , „• [nrish. \Ua thr 
 canid was uuunrth v, all r all -a DcaM la,r to Lhc 
 eye but afflietcl wnl, .na.lncss. s.. that no .nan was 
 •siife as lus ,„astcr. I la, i I „, ,t !,,,„ a camd-doctcr 
 ^^•t!- kn-.wlol.uc' ..,■ ,1,, spin ,,„! an,i .■,,n,,H,u,„l of 
 ^-v„ ,„alK.i,H.s, I shnt.M have, hcsitatcl tc seek 
 urtlu r aajuaintamv in thf ,!ia-ction nf mv Wcsi,-..- 
 
 ;"'^ '■:'"■':'•''-""■ tl'-t I -..s-an.lanM„,w so scTvm. 
 t''- p. ,^'nn,s-I posscsscl th. s.uvl ,,f Hiis <.,uv a,,:] 
 
 ;":"\'7^-^''^';'--^- Itisasi,npk.thi„K:spI,Mlu. 
 tail.. Ihrnia,] canul, v, that ih. 1,I,,.„1 (l,,wt,.the 
 "H'asurrot a pint; p.uk.r th. skm ,,l ,1,. l.p.w „, 
 
 ^""•'- I'-l'iN whirl, ,„nst Ik. r,M.,l „. ,,„,ai„ with M.xcn 
 ^t'trhrs, ,I,„u- wuhadean .Kv, lie. ; aM.nmist.r. t hen 
 
 ^^^--'>n,i.nuv\,,i,,unmuUnuvs..n.\ the aUhction 
 passes t()re\-',.r. 
 
 , "•^''■"^;'^^'"1 i t-Mlnsman, -1 an, n. ,t afraul ul 
 ><>ur ean,el; 1, i i,s tiM.le.' 
 
 "Hy was nv.,-\v,]li„. to 1u,v..in. Uia;,u : rUr I 
 sH-ul.l ,Kv>.,- have n,ana,..,l t, , ,,utw,t h,n, in the 
 "l^'""';- you shall p,-.se,„lv hea,-; I.m h. lan.^hc.,! 
 ;'f ';'''"'^=;^^'>-^'^"^>-^'an.el uhu, 1 lo! h„n h-nh 
 '"''"f^'- -\"'i. 'n,Iee,I, I was ,nha,M ease: fo,-n,v 
 camel u.,s l,hn,l-so l,li,,l, kl,r.:,„, thai 1„. e.^; 
 
 -vre wh.le with the eata,-aet, a„,l no n,an w,ih eves 
 "1 his own eouM fail lo ol,se,-ve the atllielion ' " 
 
 ^^>-:;'7'-;'^ ^ "^^'^t tell you. hein^ a iruihlul 
 man, said I, ■ is Min.l.' 
 
 , '""'^'l'"";''^'--' 'i- a„sw..re.I, -hav.. a ,na,I ea,7iel 
 '''^'" ••' '•'■-' -'- Then. ,s no pn.m ,„ ,,ik,„, 
 
 I 00 
 
Til i: CA M i: L w nil Til i: (; i.A.ss i; v lis 
 
 KirlliLT Ml this inatt.T. tor, \,\ td, I'mplu'i ' y<mr 
 cartU'l wi.uld nvvrv um iii\ alicdion.' 
 
 '"\iiur \vis<loiii,' 1 .mswcToi, 'uiiis my nsprct. 
 A tilind i-aiinl, whuli sli.,iil.l Ik.u- Imnlnis, is hiii.scli 
 a hunlrii. ()l,srr\f my uiiiK.'!,' said I, 'liow very 
 lilind he is, ( )t)srr\c liitii carcfuliy. Was Uktl' c-vct 
 so Mind a caiiHl ]<v\<>vv I would know thatcamcl,' 
 ^;iid I, ' in a h Td <i|' a tlinusand.' 
 
 '"i.nd I, hy Allah!' said ln', with much lauKhUr, 
 'in a coinpany m| ten thdusanil.' 
 
 '"I will Kad niy tanicl awav,' said I, 'lest, his 
 al'lliilioii ..lU'iid \MM, and td-mofniw 1 will depart 
 tni- Damascus; hut in six da_\s I will rrlurn, liriiiLnni,' 
 anotlu-r camel, which 1 will cxchaiiKi.' I'-r this mad 
 licasl, tor I lii\r it.' 
 
 "Thus it fell uut. In the niornitii,' I dejKn-ted; 
 and ha\in.u c unr tn Damascus, I rrmox-cd the ews 
 fp.m my Mind camel, an.l inserted ,L;lass eyes in their 
 stead; and I sha\ed him with much care, and sad- 
 dled him with new cicth. Then 1 set out l^r the 
 small ' ''lai^e where dwelt m_\- rel,iti\-e, to which, as 
 1 had planned, I came at dusk, God hefriendin-^ me 
 in this undertakin.u. 
 
 '"I am in much haste," T said to the owner of the 
 camel that I loved, 'else I would not trouble \-ou with 
 bargainiuij; to-ni!j;ht; hut if y(m would he rid of your 
 mad camel, the thinj,' must be accomy)lishi'd at once.' 
 " He examined my camel, khaii'aja, in the dusk, a& 
 I had intended, and he fell in love with the beast, 
 as I had foreseen. 
 
(' " I \ (. iMt W X I' k () M I i: J< I ,s,\ 1. 1-; M 
 
 '"IK IV is iio l,liii,l cMiiul,' s,ii(| ln', <i\( r\\ illini^' i>> 
 hf rill (if his mad nnc, 'arnl I will tra.li.' 
 
 " Thus uf trail.. I, the 1 1 1 m<^' l)cin^j done in liu- pirs- 
 oncc of uitiRsSfs. accord in,':,' {<> tlir man's rctiiK-st; 
 and I WfUl lo my relative's li.mse t!ir.v liundnd 
 piastres the richer; l.ut the own, r ..(" the eamel uilli 
 the Rlass eyes set out on the Imi k ..t his beast t.. try 
 It. h.uht remaining; for this, and 1 s.iu hmi n. . nn-re 
 until morning', when lie eauu- n. uw in a j,'reat de- 
 jjression of spirits, 
 
 '"A stran<^c thini,' has h.ippdkd", said he. WK 
 eamel lias J. .st l,.,ih eyes. Th. v h,.vr .Jn.pp.-d ,,ut, 
 and I lannot hnij them, s-areh ,is I inav.' 
 
 Ihe will rit ("iiid,' I answered, ' i^ n.vsterious.' 
 
 "'I ha\e eciinr," said he, 'to undo the trade.' 
 
 ■ '1 am not avers,.' I answered. 'Restore the 
 
 \\iil ;^'ladly .i^ixe v, ju hack 
 
 ami 
 
 eyes to iny lanul. 
 
 your own.' 
 
 '■Hut this," Al.dullah e. mcjude,], with a ehuckle, 
 
 ■ the unfortunate man enuld n,il ,]<.." 
 " Here," s;n'd 1, "is a tale < if y< .ur in\ enln in." 
 "By Gixl!" he answered, "the stoi-y is true." 
 '"It is a tale," I insisted, ".if your own iineiition." 
 " F3y (iod and Mohammed I" he swore, "the story 
 
 is Iriie." 
 
 I taunted hiivi aj^ain. 
 
 " By God and .Mohammed the Mcsscnjjcr of Gf)d!" 
 he protested, "the story is true as I have told it." 
 
 All the.se Bedouins are i^reat eiath-,lo(ij.,'ers —artful 
 at swearing, with reservations. It is an excellent 
 
 108 
 
THE C A M n I. W I T II T H !■; C. I, A S S [•. YES 
 
 tiling; s*) many oaths they fciko that some wiy of 
 I'scajK- trom an t-vcr-llowinp; prrjur\- is (KiiiaiKk'tl. 
 I fancieil n<)\v-s;icrnl as the last n.ah fia.l ]>vt'n — 
 IImI AUlulI.ih was trickiiij^ me; ht' nuisl surely have 
 his tinKers croSvSiil in tlir liiij sk'e\-cs. 1 rKjuiml him 
 to swear by his head and his rcli^inn, \(j\viiiv^ I'l put 
 away his wife if hr failol in any ikhIkuLu m| ihe 
 tnith: which is an oath (they say) that nn IJedi.uin 
 will violate. 
 
 ■"Pile khauvjcj knows," Ahditllah answered, with 
 a .identic smik', "tliat t!u- oath is iinjn ,ssihle!" 
 
 Sm I d'l nut Id'liew the talc . .l' The C'anul with the 
 Glass Eyes; hut il is a pleasantly fantastic iiucntion, 
 and I wish that I niii^ht. To the rcalitv of the talcs 
 of The Needle and Thrca.l .md The Dot; Which Bit 
 the Stran.ucr, Alidullah ;4ra\-rl\- swore, taking the 
 threefold oath. They are true, it si'cnis; hut what 
 matter' since, at any rate, they reflect the manner 
 of his life, and presi-nt in an a^'rcealily entertaininj; 
 fashion the ethics of his business. Here was this 
 Abdullah, no adherent of his tribe, which, to become 
 a wanderin<j caniel-trader, lie had deserted, much to 
 the shame of him in tlie si^it of all ^'ocxl Bedouins, 
 wl-o despise the ni.m that yii'lds his tribal identity 
 to become a wanderin,,:; inili\idual. The ease and 
 security of tlu' towns had overcome him; lu' had now 
 nf) stomach for the desert. "It is a life," said he, 
 "of starvation and blooddetting, a life of the beasts, 
 and I have found a better." This better had at 
 
 I 6y 
 
 11 
 
GOING D O W X FROM JERUSALEM 
 
 ])r(SiTit to il(j with the pili;riinat,ri.'; hut was nn hearty 
 oc'cui)ati(jn, like that of the eamel-masters, wlio in 
 these (lays ot preparati(jn come in from the wilder- 
 ness and truculently strut the bazars. As I suh- 
 si([Ue!itly learned, Abdullah was a leech upon the 
 pilj.^rima<i;e — at one with tlu' thieves ;ind cut-throats 
 and all manner of e\il men who follow, but was of 
 a more subtle and respectable class. 
 
 It seemed, however (I recall), that he lo\-ed his 
 youn^L!; son oxernmeli, as do all Bedouin fathers, and 
 would ha\e him lead no life of the desert, 1)ut attend 
 the Moslem sclmols of Damascus, that he might lie 
 an itinerant teacher of the Aoran in the desert towns. 
 
 "But Hassan, my srai," h.e sighed, "is of the 
 lion-heart; he is i:ii])atient for the sw<ird and tlu' 
 nit,rh^ expeditions of our tribe. Before loni,' he will 
 be away to the desert." 
 
 "What, now," 1 inquired, idly, "will his mother 
 think '.f that?" 
 
 " What matter?" Abdullah answered, much bored. 
 
 I \-entured a curious sui;t:^estion. "Suppose," I 
 paid, "'that this Hassan learned the arts of war in 
 i-m,i,dand '" 
 
 ".And returned?" Abdullah demanded, (judekly. 
 
 " Even so," 
 
 Abdullah laughed a littU'. " Whe-e-e-e-w!" he 
 whistled. "He would to his tribe add a hundred 
 tril_>es," he declared, with eyes aflash. "Then' 
 would in twenty years be a new prince in the desert 
 — a ijrinee like Ibn f-lachid!" 
 
 170 
 
THE CAMEL WITH THE GLASS EVES 
 
 \Vc <li<l not pursue this; and presently Abdullah, 
 having rolled another eis^aretle, tdld, with a c}uick 
 ehange of manner, the story of I he merehant of Da- 
 mascus and his \-enture into Nejd, as if he had but 
 now recollected it. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
XXXII 
 
 I 
 
 THE HOXEST TK.\I)i:k OI- XF.JD 
 
 [N my liU'," s;ii.! lu', "I haw rovnl niuch —frDm 
 th(.' Lehanon hills, through ihc country of the 
 Drusrs, an.i :<' O'.v snuthwanl a journt'yof ninety days 
 into thr lircai Disn-t, where no Christian niav l;o. 
 To Xejrl w, . I ill 111)- yninh, with my unelf, a rieh 
 man, who liwdi llirre. dralin.^ in eamrls; ami to him 
 came a niercliant .if Damascus, willi thrre himiln'd 
 camels tor sale, the which he had dri\en f'lr thirty 
 days (Her the jHrilMus ilesert, havin.LT lieard that 
 sickness had created a need nf hcasts in Xeid. 
 
 '"I am come with these three hun<]rcd camicls,' 
 sai<l he to my uncle, 'ami now I must sell them at a 
 price or lose the fortune I ha\-e invested in the enter- 
 prise. God fn,-L,'i\t' nie this undertaking, which has 
 been too .yrcat for my stnn-th! I am worn out with 
 tra\-ellin,Lr, and in haste to return. In Damascus,' 
 said lie, 'they ask twelve naj^okons fur a camel; 
 l>ut I am S(i weary of this business that I demand no 
 more than ten napoleons for each of my herd.' 
 
 '"It is a reasonable thincr,' tny uncle answered, 
 'but I must first considci the matter. Do you meet 
 nic at this place to-morrow morning, and we will talk 
 
Tf!i: HO. VEST TRADER OF XEJD 
 
 further of the business. Your camels are excellent 
 beasts, ami I would possess them.' 
 
 "Thereupon the merchant departed; and presently 
 my uncle called me from the house. 
 
 "'Abdullah,' said hv, 'you hax'e heard this man, 
 but he has not observed you. He is a simple m.an, 
 now in hard case indeed, bein^t^ able to dri\'e his 
 starved beasts no farther, and God has enli<^'htened 
 me with a plan to outwit him. Do you ride int'.> the 
 desert, where he may not encounter vou before the 
 time; and at this hour to-morrow <1o you return and 
 present me with this writinj,% riding in haste and as 
 one come from a great distance. If all goes well, 
 we shall jiresently have much to thank Gud for.' 
 
 "All this I d.irl — and, indeed, with much art. I 
 came hot and dusty, with the mare in a lather, .galloj)- 
 ing as with a message of warning against sudden 
 attack; and I fell from the back of my horse at the 
 very feet of my uncle and the merchant fnun Da- 
 mascus, crying: 
 
 "'God be tha.nked that I have arrived! I have 
 sped far and most cruelly with this letter, bein.g com- 
 manded to deliver it in haste by vour agent in Da- 
 mascus.' 
 
 '"I am busy with this good merchant,' answered 
 my uncle, 'and will read the letter anon.' 
 
 "But I besought him by the Prophet to ojx'n the 
 message, lest some misfortune befall him; and having 
 indulged me, he gave .great thanks to God for Ilis 
 compassion, and spread the news which the letter 
 
 173 
 
 r 
 
G O I \ G DOWN FROM J E R U S A I. E M 
 
 contained, wlnTraltcr he came a;jjain tri tln' aiixious 
 merchant, hut now with a woful euvintenance. 
 
 "'G(m1 Ikin'c mercy <in ynu!' said he. 'I liave no 
 need of your camels." 
 
 "The inenhant deinandeil an exjjlanation. 
 
 "'The ]iriet' of eamels," answert'd mi\' unele, 'has 
 f;d!en b> (i\i' napolecms in the eaniel-niarket of Da- 
 mascus. Here!' said he, 'read the letter for Your- 
 self. 1 i^'riew for you, friend, for it st'erns indeed 
 tliat (iod Would easti.Ljate vou fur shiiK' sin. Conud' 
 said he, 'I am an Imnest man, with a heart of coin- 
 passion for the untortiuKite, and thou.uh I hesitate 
 to intt'rfere with the olixdnus purjvises of Gm], I will 
 'ke pitv, and risk my niuI's health hv yixdni,' vou 
 
 .'" na])iilc(ins a head for vour camels." 
 The end of it was,"' Ahdullali concludt'd, "tliat 
 wlien they liad liari.'ained for seven days, the mer- 
 chant bein,ic han! to reduce, mv unele L,^a\-e six 
 napoleons for each of the three hundred camels, and 
 profited much thereby; I'oi there was a Ljreat tieed 
 f)f beasts m .Xejd at that tinn'. [ Uarned much," 
 he added, "from that I'unnin^' man."" 
 
 We left Abdullah then, for it was thrown verv late; 
 but something I saw of hitn afterwanl, beh^n. the 
 piljrrim.s set out for Mt'cca b\- God's Gate, and thouuh 
 I could concei\-e no friendly feclini,' for him, because 
 of his \ illany, I still iraist entertain mvsi'lf with ttio 
 d.isplay. I'jion th.e oecas'on of departure I chanced 
 to liid hitn (iod-spt'e(l. The da\' wa,-; fair and warm, 
 
 174 
 
 y 
 
THE SHOP OF A TRADER 
 
T II !•: HO X !■ ST TRAD E R O F X E J D 
 
 the slrci.'' IhmnLicil, tlic town in a niniinoticin of 
 joyous cxtitrinrnt,. Tliirc was no sok'minty, r\cr])t 
 that seUk'il upon ihc fat'cs of llu' day-Ion*,' streaming' 
 yrocession ; IIutc was no sliowcr nf lilcssin,^s from 
 tlu' roofs of the liousi'S, nor bonibanhncnt of lioly 
 injuiK'tions from the lia/ars of thi' Nh'ilan. as men 
 and beasts wi'iit 1j\', Imt a li\'t'lv Itantrrin;^ and larl 
 criticism, as i^^rci'ts a i)anbK' in our own land. Be- 
 yond tile city we stood to watch the passing of these 
 poor folk. 
 
 I observed ])rcsentl\' ;i Ioul: stritiij; of camels bear- 
 ing no bunK'US. 
 
 "What camels are these." I asked, "and why are 
 thev thus fa\ored '" 
 
 "These camels," the\- answered, "will taki' up 
 the liurdens of the beasts which ])erisli in the desert." 
 
 I wondered that in the organization of thi' ])il- 
 grimage an official I'onsideration of this magnitude 
 had been sho\n. Ihit I was ])rescntl\' enlightened; 
 here was nothing onicial at all, but a yiriwite enter- 
 prise. Strutting behind his string of JK'asts, ha\ing 
 not yet taken to the saddle, came Abdullah from 
 Ain el Kaimi; and when I cla]>])ed eyes on him 1 
 understood. Here were camels for sale to the un- 
 fortunate, who wotild ])av through the nose for their 
 misfortunes. Tlie trader ran from the nxid to kiss 
 our hands; antl we gave him (iod-sjieed, according 
 to the form. He waved his hand again, shouted, 
 " I'or (lod and Mohammed!" and disappeared in the 
 confusion. That was the last we saw of him. In 
 
 175 
 
 i 
 
('. f) I \ r. I) O W \ !■ ROM J F. R U S A L E M 
 
 Caipi, six wtcks MUtrward, when lie slioulil \>v an'i\'- 
 inj,' ,it his jduniry's end, I KMninl ihal the piij^'riiiis 
 Were dyiii.u nf thr iila.u'lic in Mufa at thr appalHn.s,' 
 rate of nearly live hundred a tlav. 
 
XXXIII 
 
 ON' THE ROAD TO KAXTARA 
 
 WE wcTf nowcniiK'tothc ];ist day's riding toward 
 Cairo— ("lon^'.ia \vi.st\vanl to tlu' Suez Canal at 
 Kantara. It was iiiclancholy en()U<ih, indocni- tlic 
 ncarin^' c^nd of those wtrLs' placid desert tra veil in,'; 
 from Jerusalem: hnt yi,'t remained one day of sandy 
 o]ien and tlu' last eneainjiment of our I'ournev. 
 When we etr.ers^ed from the tent in res])onsi' to the 
 uri^dnj,' dra<;oman, it was to the wet shailows of dawn 
 and the sullen haste of l)reakini; Ccmip — to the prom- 
 ise of hot weather, too, I ol)ser\-ed : no cool i^low of 
 mornin,ir, rosily expanding:, I'ut a lomr wound of crinv 
 son light in the eastern sky, a])pcaring feverirJi. The 
 world beyond, thou<j;ht I, was already a blisteri!ii,^ 
 place, its ways listlessly followed in the l)eatin,>i 
 \-ellow li^ht. an<'. beyond — infinitely far bevond the 
 liorizon of this \-acant desert— the sun had now i^one 
 down upon the snow of our own land, and the night 
 air was there left still and frosty and blue. 
 
 Mustafa, the entertaining camel-driver, who of our 
 caravan was first to be under way with his slow 
 beasts, was waiting to gi\-e the khavi'aja the Siiluta- 
 tions; and having politely performed this ceremony 
 
 177 
 
 i 
 
C, ( ) I \ (". I ) ( ) W X I" ROM j !■: R U S A I, !■ M 
 
 with liis U'l'tti rhattcrinij — the wirnl LKw liiltnly 
 chill from tlir iHTlh whili ihc carili w.iUi.l [^r llir 
 sun — ho nvnl his ni>istlcss way iiUn the shaddwy 
 west, trailing:; aftiT his string of rauals, the canu'l- 
 boys and swaviii}^ lioasts i^rown _t,'ij^antii.- in ihi >\<<\\ 
 (lawn. It was I'mad ila\', clurrful wciithiT ,mi| a 
 fresh wiml, uhcn we niouutcd to lollow; and those 
 of ns who W( ic aeeustotnrd to ride toi,H'tlu'r niowd 
 off at a fi>ot)iaif into ihi' sand, heartily hn'akfasti'd 
 and eaj^cr f'.r the road, lra\inL: AH Mahtnoud and 
 his inuK'ttcrs t" loai! tlie unwiUin.L; beasts. 
 
 We had 11' it ;^(inc far, howrvcr, bcfcrc^ we were 
 iiitrrrui)ted by a ir_\' from the camp; and upon this 
 we tnrned shar])ly, to (Hscovcr a Bedouin in living; 
 pursuit, liis \-oun,i; son fi '11' >win,Lj; — a man "f iin- 
 p'lX'erisheil istatt', it seemed fnun hi^ i)atehes and 
 tattrrs, when hv had o\iTtaken us. 
 
 "This pii"r man," saiil Aboosh, presently, " would 
 offiT a petitit >n." 
 
 '■ < )f wh.it nature "''" I askrib 
 
 " lie has bcrn wronijed 1)V liis encnu"," the dra^^o- 
 nian answcrc'l, ".ind seeks redress." 
 
 "What ivdress haw I to t^ive?" 
 
 "The man is encouraged by the i^'ossip of ilu; e<iok"s 
 tent; it has eome to his ears that six days past you 
 ilined with the English officers at E! Arish, and lie 
 has grown hopeful." 
 
 The wretclu'd I\'']()uin, somi'what bewildered by 
 this foreign gabble, still regardcl n.e in sanguine 
 expectation. I iibser\ed that liis lip hung loosely, 
 
 I , S 
 
O \ Till- R ( ) A [) TO K A \ T A R A 
 
 th;it his iliscasi'(l cyrs \v:ivcr('il ; ami I (DiucUiMl that 
 iK'nt'uth tlu' lipiwii ra^'s ^t" his iil'lut his hcarl IumI 
 with aittislitiiH'd tiiiiiility. 
 
 "Till him," saiil 1, "that I have- iici powiT." 
 
 "It is usiKss," AiiiMish answcri'il ; "having' oli- 
 S(T\-c(i the ICiiijlish tlan llsiriLj ()\fr ymir tnit, ihc 
 mail will iKii iK'lit'vt' it." 
 
 "Ti'll him, nrvcrthflcss. that I have uo i)()W("r," 
 1 rcpcatci], ■lull tiiat I will listen lo Ills stury lor the 
 t'litrrtaiiimiiit it ma\ |)ni\iilf." 
 
 AImjusIi I'limplird with l.ail L;racc. 
 
 "1 am a tnlu'sm.m "j' thosr hills which the khr.- 
 wajd may di'scry in tlu' somh," tlu' Bfilouin rt-lati'il, 
 "ami I have travelled tlusi' m.my d.i\-s hitherward 
 atdot, iTiy yi>iui.^ sun acc'i>mpan\in,i,' to ease tlu' pansys 
 of luneliness. I am in lamenlalile casr, tniK', liein^' 
 a friendless man, lionnd now In lil Arisli tu ulitain 
 justice (if the I'aij^'lish, an enem\- ha\ini; sunh- wnMi,L;- 
 ed me. We nw two trilns of pastoral Arabs," lie 
 continued, "dwellinij side liv siiie, pasturini; <iur 
 flocks and tillini^ the soil, and have continued in this 
 proximity in ])eacx' throu.^h many ^'encratioiis. My 
 little field lies hetwecn tile cultivated Ljround of m\- 
 pi-ople an-! the land of tlu- nei;,;Iiliorin,L,f tribe. That 
 great fertile field which adioins is ])ossessed by a 
 covetous man, with whom I misj;ht derd sulTiciently, 
 supported by my slu'ik, were he not the nei)he\v 
 of the sheik of his ])eo])le. Year b\- vear this 
 man has encroached upon my land, now tilling,' a 
 foot, now claiming to ha\e sown where I cast my 
 
 »7y 
 
r, O I \ r, n O \V X P R M I i: R U S A I. E M 
 
 st'nl, until \\\cvv IS imtiiin;; left to mc but an uii- 
 vifldiUK strip nl stony i,'rounil, am' I am liktly 
 hi starve with inv son. Tlu- slicik of ni\ iMU-iny 
 will not rctlrt'ss nu' lest lu- ntiVu'! ilir man, whn is a 
 tvlebratal warrior in tmr parls an^l has a ;.;rfit ti>l- 
 lowinp of (lisat'tVctfd jx-rsons ainoii},' his trilnsnun; 
 and niv sheik will ^'ivr mc no sviccur lest he insolvc 
 our tribes in war, whiih have not \varre<l for these 
 j:;cnerations. Nevertheless, the land is mine, and my 
 son's after me, descendetl Ut nie tlirouyh tlie line of 
 my forefathers, and I have not withdrawn the boun- 
 daries from the urij^dnal marks, but ha\-e in every way 
 comj^lieil with the land laws of iny jnnplr. I am 
 tlius an unfortunate man, tndy, abandnnt-d tiv my 
 people as a saeritiee to the .meient peaee ot our 
 trilies; and it seems that my son will haw no in- 
 heritance after me." 
 
 " It is an unhapp\' jiredieami'iit , trulv." I > ib.vTved ; 
 "and I am amazed that you lia\r not rrsorted to a 
 private Settlement of this ai'iair." 
 
 "To what end?" he asked, with a shrui,'. 
 
 "To the end," 1 answered, "oi' pivscrvin^' this in- 
 heritance to your Son." 
 
 " I mi^ht accomplish the death of my enemy from 
 ambush, truly." he replietl; "but to what advantage 
 this blocxl-feud ? for the man is a man of j^reat family, 
 and my son would presentlv follow mv to the iira\'e. 
 It is better that I should ask the English at El 
 Arish to deal justly l)etween us; and to this enii," 
 he added, with an upward glance of entreaty, " I 
 
 1 80 
 
0\ T ill; |< () A I) TO K A X FA k A 
 
 crave ihr tH„,n >A \hc k'hawaja's distinguished 
 fricn.lshii)." 
 
 " I K'rieve." said I, sadly, "that I cannot help you." 
 
 " Will th.' khawaja not obtain that justice for mc?" 
 tile Bedouin be^^ed. 
 
 Aboosh si.szhed. I fancicfl that the simple drapo- 
 man woald have mc ititrurlo. 
 
 "Give tins poor man hu-kshccsh in reward Wn- his 
 story," said I, "and trll him lliat the F.n-liNh will 
 deal justl\ ." 
 
 "lie will not lulifve," Aboosh replied, "that jus- 
 tice is V> 111' had without inlluenee." 
 
 "The lessnn, tlien," s.dd 1. ndiii;; uH", " will 1,^ u< 
 his a<hant.i>,a'." 
 
 "Will tlu- kli.ih\ii.i write no sin^di word'" the 
 Bedouin called, in entreaty. 
 
 We rode in a direction from El Arish, to whieh 
 city the Bedouin was hound. I wondered that he 
 followed US. 
 
XXXIV 
 
 TlIK IIVH TRdriil.HS 
 
 FR(^M l-:i Ansli wr ha'l i"V U\c days ri'Mfii 
 llinu^h a sa-,iil\- ik'scrt, si)arsrly liushcd ukh 
 a iiu'aii ;^'rav ij;n>\vtli. lull hvw, iicarinj; the (.'anal, 
 was iii> \i'.Lii.'latii)n at all — an unlduchcd waste oi 
 yclidw saii.l, clrifloi in threat hills, the cd^cd ridijc'S 
 now smoking in a smart brc'czt', \allcys and brirl 
 plains st-t ni unchani^nii; ri]>iiUs. At noon it was 
 cruelly hot ridini;: the ImT/.r had fallen away, the 
 desert an- palpitated ui ' t 'hr snn. the yellow world 
 merued its outlines and was ln'coine ;i j.dare of hot 
 retleetion, featureless to our i)roli. stin;4 eyes. 
 
 We had 1)\- this tiiue overtaken Mustafa's camels, 
 which we ])assed, and were ck>sely trailed by AH 
 Mahinoud and his mules, with which the bi.i,' master 
 of the muleteers had followed si)eedil\-. accordin;,^ 
 to the instruction of Al.oosh. The cautious dra^jjo- 
 man had said that thou;.,di in the wide desert men and 
 mules might with inviolable safety stray at will, the 
 approach to town must be accomplished in company, 
 lest some loss or worse catastroi)he befall at the hands 
 of practised robbers who mi'^ht immediately esca])e 
 to the confvision of a city. 
 
 182 
 
 lI. > 
 
T II 1:; I' I V i^ T ROI H |, L S 
 
 Till' _\'iuii,uir kli<ih\ii.i. liDWiAcr, wliu had loj^^cd 
 thusc (lays on .he luck of an army canirl, a llulitl of 
 lu-auty, was not ridinL; in our eonij)any; with Taulik, 
 the (Iraj^onian's jjcppcry hrolhcr, ami C-orjioral Ah, 
 a husinrss-hkr SuuilanrM- "{ the L^arrison at h^l Arisli, 
 hv was far in tlu' rear, l^sl to \irw iKhind the sand- 
 liills loftily intcrvrnin,L,'. I'l-oui link' Ui liiiK' Alioosh 
 turned in his stirrups to peer into liie i,'lare l)ehind; 
 and so persistent was the olTence a.yainst the quietude 
 ot our proi.'Tess thai I (|UfStioned his anxi(,i\- with 
 much rudeness: upon whieh he answered iiiildl\ that 
 if Taufik were to he accounted a reckless youth, 
 Corporal Ali was a fool to indul<,'e the youn.yer kiia- 
 waja's whim to h'li^^rer on the road. 
 
 "It is trur," I tauntrd, "nf what \'ou accuse vour- 
 sclf; \-<m are not n\ the lion lu'art." 
 
 He lauijhed. " \'. ai are a ra'^'/al, and would tease 
 me!" 
 
 "I would nut discover you," 1 answered, "in this 
 loiijish SI 'hcituiK'." 
 
 "It is my way thus to be anxious," >aid he, turn- 
 
 ing to look a^ain. 
 
 For a time we rode without speakini: — the voun^ 
 draj^oman wretclicdly downcast, it seemed: not in- 
 terested, now, to keep his spare fiu;ure in *'- saddle 
 with that exquisite erace to which he I, nor 
 
 to poise his head in llu' pnmd fashion he cuitwatcd, 
 nor to ulance lioIi1]\- roundaliout upon the world, nor 
 to pnsei-\T the saucy an.i^le of liis Kiustachc, nor in 
 
G U i .\ G L) O W .\ J' K O M J i: k U S A 1. 1- .M 
 
 f 
 
 any other way to dis; ay those xanilics in wliich lie 
 was frank to find deh.^ht. 
 
 ■'Here is .: pdor dragoman," 1 jiresentiv e(»ni- 
 plained, "Uuis to he full of sighs upon a journeyl" 
 
 "1 think of my hve troubles," he niilii,(l. 
 
 "It would be interesting," 1 ol'Ser\ed, "to hear 
 them reeounteil." 
 
 He spurred his h(jrse near with a geiitk littk- laugh. 
 "I'irst," said he, tlie snnle \-ielding plaee to an ex- 
 Ijression of genuine and reviTent eoncern, "is my 
 religion: 1 am no Mohammedan, to be content with 
 the forms, but a Christian, who must live bv the 
 spirit ; an.] I must constantly trou]>le mvself with the 
 cjuestion, 'Do I truly live in the fear of God?' 
 Second," he continued, "is my llesh and blood: that 
 mother, now grown ol 1 in Jerusalem, who Hed with 
 me over the desert from .Meso]X)tamia, where mv 
 father was murdered: those sisters and their live 
 children who are n(m- dependent u])onme; that Tau- 
 hk. my brother, going to America — of all these I must 
 ask myself, 'Do I serve them as my father would?' 
 Third," he ]>roeeeded, "is my ]iresent dutv: am I 
 faithfully serving those who employ me? do they 
 travel in the comfort and safety which I promised 
 them according to my contract? And I am now 
 troubled," he added, looking 'l)ehind, "because the 
 younger A7?,;;e,;/a is not in sight. Fourth," he re- 
 sumed, after a moment, "is my conduct: 1 must not 
 fail to trouble myself with the question, "Am I kind 
 to tlie unfortunate ?' for when I was a boy, travelling 
 
 icS4 
 
THE FIVE TROUBLES 
 
 the roads about Jirusalcm ti) earn Itrcad for my 
 family, I did not ivcrivc kindness, and 1 ivmembcr 
 thf feelincj;. Fifth," hv concluded, lookini,' u]) from 
 the hot road with a sinilo, "is my future, I am a 
 youn;^f man, but one with, man\- obH.i^Mtions, aiiil I 
 jannot help troubling; m_\-self with the question, 
 "What is to become of me.'' A youni,' man with 
 ol)li>,(ations ainnot h-mcstly take nvw respr)nsibilities; 
 and, though I liaxe no one in \-ie\v ;■< r>resenl. I can- 
 not hel]) wondering—" 
 
 An<l the excellent yottng fellow's recital ended in 
 a burst of bashful laughter. 
 
XXXV 
 
 A I'RINCi: I\ Mi:SOI'()TA.\lIA 
 
 WE wort' inU'iTupti'il, imw, liv the appearance of 
 a band cil Bedouin travellers, streaming un- 
 expectedlv over a near-by rise. They came swinging 
 down the faintly hoof-niarked track toward the 
 vallev wherein we labored (kc]i in tlu' sand-dritt; 
 and I obser\ed that those mounted, among them mde 
 their camels without weariness, ami that those atViot 
 trod jauntily, all of them advancing with much 
 hilaritv, of calling to one another and of a chant-like 
 singing. Thev wouLl hearten lliemselves for the 
 road by chanting war-srmgs (sa.id Aboosh); and I 
 recall that thi> approach in this manner — the long 
 stride, the xagonnis carriage, accompanied by the 
 rlu'thmical sound of voices — was an enlivening spec- 
 tacle. 
 
 There was none poor among them, it seemed ; they 
 were elail in fal tries of price, worn with an air in keep- 
 ing with ])rMud countenances, and the trappings of 
 the beasts were new and abuTidant : here, indeed, 
 was neither rag of poverty, the unkempt appearance 
 of poor men, nor the lowered eyes of the meek. 
 They ca.me compactly upon us, with a great flashing 
 
 rH6 
 
A 1' R I X (• i: I X M E S O I' O T A M 1 A 
 
 (it oyi'saml L^riiiiiiiiL;, Uinnviiig Kirai wi.nlh in ;iii\an(X': 
 iwii ulil nu'ii, I ix'call, .qjptanii;^ in aulhonLv, wiili a 
 do/Ail slilf-iu'ckc'd fallows in a bi'anK.d prime, and 
 SdHic iniS(.'liir\iius-iniiulhfd l".\s. 
 
 It. Was a nnis)- passiu'^; hiU Ah'H.sh ,ija\( Uh'TII no 
 salulalion in Rlurn, nor cnurkduslv x'iildrd soith'- 
 wlial (.1 the ro^id, nnr acknowicd-^ol ihem al all, Imt 
 straightened in his saddle, riiling now al the head of 
 our caravan uiih tlial hirge assnni])ti(in n\ dignity 
 he could eoinmand, until they were well past and 
 the answering iiadinage of our niukli^ers had ceased, 
 whereupon he relaxed into hstlessncss, and the 
 aniusenient \^ as < >\er. 
 
 " A saucy crew' " said I. 
 
 "Truly," he answered: "yet it is wise to go peace- 
 ably in a strange eountr\." 
 
 Wearing the gra\- hairs of cavJious age, I did 
 agree: and I turned then to look oack, hut could 
 catch no sign of the younger kliawajj on the road. 
 
 It was e\-er hotter riding: we went hetween two 
 tlaniing round wastes — sun owrhead and sand under- 
 foot : tile desert had absorbed what heat it could con- 
 tain, and now reflected the white ra>-s with hanllv 
 ilinu'nished sewrity. TIutc was no heart in oin- 
 company for tlie accustonied «li\ersions of the road; 
 Mustafa had no tale to recite, K' achid no kive-song 
 of his composition with wliich to distract us from 
 till- weariiK-ss of this riding. I observed that 
 "Wliishic, a mastcrlcss dog which had followed our 
 
 i87 
 
 I ; 
 
GOING DOWN FROM JERUSALEM 
 
 \ 
 
 camp from Jerusalem, practised a cvinniii.u tx))L(lu'iit, 
 which, In'ing a beast of "the wall," she IkhI iviw tirst 
 discovered. She would hasten in advance, paw a hole 
 in a sandv slope, and snuj,;^le in this small shade of 
 her creation luitil wc were well beyond, wlurcupnii 
 she would conn- runnini' after u--', eiUicr to repeat l!;e 
 performance or trot, tongue hanging, in the shadow 
 of my horse, which was directly under his belly. 
 There was no niher int'ident to enliven ihe way; we 
 were indeed most unhappily li' 't and restless and 
 bored — save the camels (^f Mustafa, which con- 
 tinued the slow, invariable pace, indifferent. 
 
 In this emergency of tedium I demanded. n\ Aboosh 
 the story of the murder of his father in Mesopotamia. 
 
 " It is a wild tale," he replied,. 
 
 "So much the better," said I. "The Bedouins 
 have a proverb: A good story is the half of a day's 
 journey." 
 
 " I am the second son," he related, as I may para- 
 phrase the tale, "of the M.iii W'ilh the Cat. My 
 father was the sheik o|' ihirteen \i!lages in Meso])ota- 
 mia, with power to le\-y ta.\.. s and to gathci- them by 
 force, and was in consequence a rich and ])owertul 
 man, iKtted by his enemies and well ser\-ed by those 
 Self-interested friends who thrived upon his In ;aity. 
 I was a child when my mother lied with me into Pales- 
 tine, and of the land remember only a swiftly Ho wing 
 ri\er, and "i our state recall little more than a gray 
 body-servant and a white horse: but my mother has 
 told me many stories of our wealth — of llocks and 
 
 iS8 
 
A 1' R 1 XCE I \ M i:S0 I' OTA M I A 
 
 horses, of stores of corn, of the arired srrwiiits wiili 
 whom my father ro.lc, of jrucls and eariiets in a 
 great house, of coffers in the eellar, from uhirh :^oI,l 
 and silver were not counted, Lnt wei^lird. My 
 lather was a sa\a;j;i' man, alilr to defen<l his hie 
 ngainst attack in force, which, indeed, he must often 
 do, l,iu h\id in (hvad of poisoning. I"or this reason 
 he would tu'\er venture abroad witliout a cat; and 
 into strange liouses, whe. he must eat, lie would 
 carry her to taste the food, an extraordinar\- pre- 
 ca-ution: so tluit to many ix'oplr in Meso])otamia, he 
 was known (and is to this day renK'ml>ered i as the 
 Man With the Cat. In this way he balked his 
 enemies, until a cunning i)lan was de\ ised to outwit 
 him. Iinited to feast at the hoiise of a friend, he 
 laid olV his shoes at the door, as the custom is, an<l 
 while tlie cntertainmL'nt was in ])rogress some enemy 
 poisoned his shoes in a curious manner: this l)eing 
 with fine fragments of glass upon which some deadly 
 fluid had hern allowed lo dry. When m\- lather re- 
 turned t'rom the t\'ast, his feet weri' ser.atched and 
 swollen; ;iiiil he was ])resentl_\- dead of tlu' lock- 
 jaw, leaving my elder brother, the father of this 
 Tautik, to assume his station and the wealth of his 
 oflice." 
 
 "Tlie father of this Taufik who rides behind with 
 the \ounger khaicaja and Corporal Ali'" I echoed. 
 
 "Ves," Aboosh answered; "it is true that Taufik 
 passes as my brother, and was nursed at mv mother's 
 breast, his mother having die<l: but iie is in reality 
 
 189 
 
 'I 
 
C. O I X ('. DO W X 1- R O M I i: R U S A 1. I-: M 
 
 ii!V iifphrw, the Sdii 'if my cliUr limtlu'i". ulii i was 
 slain liy my father's t-nL'iiiit's liffon.' ihc youn;^' man's 
 ■irth." 
 
 " This Taulik," I askt'd "is then liy ri;4ht ihr shrik 
 (if thirteen \ illat;es in Mesoixitamia ?'" 
 
 ■■ It is true," Alinosh answered ; "Imt wliat matter' 
 fur Jerusali ni, to whiih ni\- ni'ithcr IUmI with us after 
 the deatli i<\ ni\- falln r and Imithrr, is a It m;^' wa\' 
 fnnn ^k'S<)p(ltamia." 
 
 " I have a vision of adventure for the y aing man," 
 said I. 
 
 .\l)oi >sh was puzzled. 
 
 " I'roin Ameriea to return to .Mesopotamia." I 
 eried, eiuhusiastieallv. "and jiossess iiimself of that 
 wliieli was taken from his latlier." 
 
 " Why should lie do this thin.u'" 
 
 "To Ik- the sheik of thirteen xdUa'^es." 
 
 Ahoosh hur^hed lu-artily. " II is not worth while," 
 said lie, "t<i he the sheik of thirteen \illai,fes in .\h'S- 
 optUamia." 
 
 "Not worth while to liw thus in princely state!" 
 I exclainu'ii, aghast. 
 
 "it is in Meso])otamia," In- retorted. 
 
 \'e\erlhfles>. thead\'ent ujion wliieh this youn^ 
 and stoMtdieartrd Taufik nn;,;ht lionoraMy embark 
 seems to he an underlal.'inL,' of ])ro]ii irlions and rare 
 flavor. The distance of the scene, the isolation of 
 the strui;i^le, the spears and (h'nt docks, are a]i])eal- 
 uv^ asiK'cts. Mv \iew, howrvi'r, ma\' he an error ot 
 th.e mmatitie inia,i.^dnation ; perh.ajis, after all, it is 
 
 11)0 
 
A I' K 1 XC !•: I X M ICsn I>OT.\ M I A 
 
 nd an interesting thin^' to slicd IiI.hkI and iluvU in 
 jcojianly. 
 
 W'l' rniniiK'd a ij;rcat sand-hill, pcakfi] and cliffod 
 likr a wriiaMr mountain, and roik' ( mt upini a j^lain, 
 Kratrlully hai'd undrrlMMi. The linriznn was a line 
 I'f iiahn-lroc's, the conlinnity •>( '^rvvu hn >krn at 
 iti1ir\als; there was no glimpse of water — no indica- 
 tion of chan,;j:c- in thr desert we tra\-elled. Pri'sently, 
 liowewT, a,ii;ainst the liack<jround of sky and farther 
 sand, the Miioke-stat'ks of a steamship a])peare(l, 
 tra\ersin,L,' the liarn n in a way to amaze the Irawlkr 
 troin those ninoU' ]ilaees ulience were we. llerr, 
 then, Was the eanal. it seemed; tlu' paees of (,ur un- 
 trouhled iourne>- \\\i\' nuinhered. There was in- 
 stantly the riidin;,;, iiidee(l ; ,i glimpse i >\ snioki'-staeks, 
 and we were no longer nearin;^' the f.iniiliar jjertvirha- 
 tions, but had returned to tht'in. I wondered what 
 tinn' the train lift Kantara tor Cairo; and was tlu'ri' 
 a time^ahlr ;•' and \\<.nld tlui-e he a dinin;^'-ear i"" or 
 must the e< " ik put up a hite to cat ' 
 
 We mended llir pae<-; the eaniels were ur^i^ed to a 
 lumhi'rini; trot, the mules hastened under the hiNty 
 eallint:; of Ali Mahmoud, the doi,^ ran harking,' in ad- 
 vance, the Worn Rai'hid l.roke into the last dosj;-trot 
 of his loni,' tra\(llin<.;. A rusty tin ean, ohtrudint; 
 from a little drift of sand, eonveyed its suL^eestion ; 
 tlure was then the ra.u' of a newsjxqxT — presently 
 the seattt'red ri'fuse of a town. Mown far out l)\- the 
 winds. Low houses eine'rijed in shiftless detail from 
 
 141 
 
c.n 1 \ c, DO \v \ 
 
 1< () M 
 
 i: R V s.\ I. i-: .\i 
 
 the bank ot palms: separating imni liicse a half- 
 lM)ar(lo(l structure took form, and I distinguished the 
 sound of a hammer. Other smoke-stacks appeared; 
 there was the fussy puflinc; of a tug-hoat, the Mast of 
 a steam whistle. 'I'lii' s-nni was unclean, the air 
 polluted; here were all the ajjjpra rations come again. 
 
 We skirted the out-liuildingsof a wretched village 
 — an (nit-at-the-elhows .settlement, weak in the knees, 
 in<lolcnt, sore-eyed, and unwashed —and threaded a 
 way among the hills of accumulated dredgings from 
 the canal. At hist, disheartened, we came to the 
 hank a green, swift-Howing stream (the tide then 
 ehangmg), hustling with the traffic of the world. 
 Near by was this liitle town; I'ctween was a hand- 
 l^roiwlle 1 ferry, conveying camels tow.Hil Cairo; 
 across was a trim railroad station, a grass-plot, a 
 garden, and a switch-engine. The passengers of a 
 slow-passing P. and O. liner came to the rail to stare. 
 
 We dismounted for the l;ist tiine. Riu'lu'd, accord- 
 ing to the custom he had established, took the liriiilr 
 of my horse. 
 
 "It is finished!" said I, in the iM'douin way. 
 
 " Kluncaja, truly," he re])linl, "it is a melancholy 
 thing to lea\'e these sands." 
 
 Our caravan was to return to Jerusalem bv thr 
 desert route, leaving us to take train for Cairo in tlu' 
 m< »rning. 
 
xxxvr 
 
 A nnnoriN' i\ citstody 
 
 I WENT to an eminence of ilrcdj^ings to search 
 the plain for the younjjcr klum'aja. He had come 
 into view at last, but was riding alone, and that in 
 a curious fashion, vaeillatinu: between haste and 
 leisuri'. lie wfuild now Uip the neck of his camel 
 until ilir l)r;isl tmtt.d. 1 ail bavins achieved this, 
 wouiil almost instantly persuade it back to aj^itated 
 walk. I must therefore conclude that be would make 
 haste if he could, but was una1>Ie to continue with the 
 bnalh Ih aten out of his body bv tlu' jolting gait of 
 his beast. I*resentlv I o!Ker\ed C'orporal Ali and 
 Taufik emerge from the cover of a s.md-hill; thcv 
 were at a footpace, with a gesticulating Bedouin walk- 
 ing between the horses. To this m\-stery was added 
 the appearance of a second I'«douin, who eanie 
 running beyond, not with untouched strength, but 
 falteringlv, in the wav of a man who had run far 
 and eagerly. Ilaxing owrtakeii the horsemeti, the 
 runner to. .k the place of the first Bedouin, who then 
 trailetl disconsolately behind, his excitement all at 
 once departed; and in this manner the grou]; 
 proached over the plain. 
 
 19.? 
 
 .p- 
 
( ■ n I x ( ; I ) ( ) w \ I k ( ) M I !•: k r s a i, i: m 
 
 "Thf man in the custody of Corporal Ali," the 
 younj^cr klura'tijd rxplainctl, havinj^ arrivcil, "is our 
 prisoner." 
 
 "Anil tile oM man fuilowin},'?" 
 
 "Ill' was stizL'd to insure the appearance of the 
 other." 
 
 "It is doubtless an iiilrrrNtiti},' adviriltui' to have 
 taken a prisoner," I observed; "but, in the name 
 of Heaven! what are we to do with a captureil 
 Bedouin ?" 
 
 "Why," cried the younj^er k'luru\iiti — as though 
 the thing were a privile}.;e— " we shall make an ex- 
 ample of him, of course!" 
 
 It seems that these three loiterers of our eonijiany, 
 riding alone in the desert behind, had fallen in with 
 the sixteen sauey Ikvlouins whom we had earlier en- 
 countered. Taufik was neither of the nature nor 
 that iihU'iuh! age to accept an insult uitli ii'> more 
 tlian a eonteinptuous lift of the head. At any rate, 
 small blame to him; these jauntv rascals had chal- 
 lenged the issue. When the N'UiHiL^er kluiu'djii was 
 cursetl for a Christian lout (and worse), the young 
 dragoman slijiped from his Imrse and ft'llei' the nf- 
 fender of his master. It was instantly an .ittray — 
 and of the liveliest intention. Tin- Ivedouins eried. 
 "Kill them! Kill them!" and fell upon the unarmed 
 Taufik with tlii^switt jjurpose. 
 
 Thev meant— in the ])assiun of the moment— to 
 deliver his death; here was no mere wayside brawl, 
 but a murderous onslaught. Staves were employed 
 
 I'M 
 
A 15 i: IJO U 1 N 1 .\ C U S'l'O I) V 
 
 ajjainst liim; tlie lonj,', curved Aral) knives wore 
 • Irawn, lnjl iliiwri with poor aim in the CDiifusiun, 
 S(» that iK^ mortal Mow was dealt. Corporal Ali was 
 now engajjed; hut tlir unfortunate younger kiiawaja, 
 perched hiL;li wn tin liump of his frantic camel, was 
 unalile to frirli the hi'ast to his knees, and must for 
 the moment contain his lust to strike. When at 
 last he abandon.,! iIk- saddle at a great leap, the 
 Bedouins were in fliiiht, l)ruise<l l»y the fists of T.mlik 
 and Ali into a revi\ini; consciousness of Uu ir in- 
 discretion. 
 
 Taufik was a tliin>,' of shreds and hruiscs, beaten 
 aliout tlif head, .ind Mccdin;,' fmni small wounds of 
 knives; but G)rponi! Ali was seathlcss, breathing 
 easily and not uiuhily disordered. He now stood 
 comjioscd, with his lon.i,^ black rm,i.;irs closed about 
 the beard of an old man, who pleaded piteously to 
 be released. W'.ar by was a .ij;rave patri.ireh, of 
 sheikly authority o\er his dt'p.irted tribesmen, to 
 whom Oiri)or:il .\]i, in a musical address, drawled 
 llial the old gentleman whose be.ird he retainer! 
 Would !ie held as a hostaije for the ddiwry of that 
 offender whom Taulik had first accostoi. 
 
 " \'ow," the younj^'er kluiivcijo concluded, "by i^ooil 
 foilune we ha\e the man to d, ,] with." 
 
 I lameiUed the lalmrious necessity. 
 
 ■'What!" cried the \-oiniL:er AV/aaw/'./, "would you 
 have this fellow ij;o tree:- Win ' he exclaimeil, out- 
 raged, adopting the Rn-li^,!! altilude, "he attacked 
 —usf 
 
 'V5 
 
 I , 
 
G O I \ C, D W \ FROM J E R f S A L E M 
 
 The thing must be done, then, for tlie unpanlon- 
 ahle olYcnee of lilting a hand against thr Angki Saxon, 
 or the servant of tlie Anglo-Saxon, in an Eastern 'and 
 (n,-eniMt,'i! 1)V the l-^n,.;hsli ; there was no exaddng a duty 
 ol Uiis graw jiubhe nature, k'St the journey of some 
 otlui- tra\-rlU'r lie more seriously interrupted, they 
 all wisely said. 
 
XXXVII 
 
 nr)r,s Oi- Tnic i-.xci.ish 
 
 TIII^ triitR were now niisnl, the riij^'s sprcid, the 
 klia:. iia's easy chair srl in the shade; an<i here 
 on the hank of the eoohllov,in- eanal the khuhxija 
 ele,iranily restcl, the admired of ly-yptians, his at- 
 tention oecu])ii'd witdi an oeeasion.d wb.itf from the 
 eonk's ]iols, with the manifold heauti-s of the Hhie 
 \<\ij., with the LTi-aee of the pahn-lree opposite, and 
 with a frai^Tant eup of coffee the ])roduet of the art 
 of Rachi.!. formerly em])!oved liy Davi.l's Gate. fJe 
 reverted i)rt'S.-nt!y to the veritahk' catastroi)he (,f tm- 
 ]jakitaMe dnlv confrontin.n; him— justi-v inxm the 
 head of tuat errini; Bedouin — init was interrupted by 
 a diflldent ck'arinu of the throat in liis proxhnity. 
 It was the wron,<,"'d Bedouin of Goo.^aa, his son in his 
 shadow— not the eai>turc>d offender, out that rai:s,'L'd 
 man who in the early mornin,^^ had sout^'ht to enlist 
 the klh!i.\ii,i's sympathy, hut had been denied. Ik' 
 had followed all these sandv miles from the last well 
 to renew his Petition for the kluiu'dja's influence in 
 llie jiroeet'din^ he was about to take aeainst the 
 enemy who had encroached uiion his land. 
 
 "Come! " thought the kliah .,ja, 'this ragged fellow 
 
 197 
 
 i|' 
 
(iOl .\(; |)()\V.\ i'Ro.M I !■ R U'SALLM 
 
 is<i| ,1 iiiiiiii t(i(. sini])lr and (iiiijil tn f, mcciw- a ])Inl, 
 ail. I, inorv'ivvv. ha\ iii^,' al scunr t..si ])risrr\ cm] an ar- 
 (|uainlancf thnm.L^h one whole day, hr is hmmir likv 
 an old friend. Why shall a man noi introduce one 
 ;j;enlleinan to another' I will eurry additional favor 
 wnh. the eaptain at El Arish by i)resentin<< him with 
 the furred dust-glasses he coveted. Of this gift tlic 
 l>etilioning Bedouin shall he the hearer; and if it 
 please the captain to listm to the Bedouin's com- 
 plaint (I will write 1, it will doubtless please the Bed- 
 "um, to.,, and would unquestionably delight the 
 vanisb.ing kluu,\n^i t-ould the tale of this indulgence 
 but onie til his ears." 
 
 The Bedouin was politely grateful, assuming n 
 letter favorable t.i his suit; and the sleepv attention 
 ot the /v//,Kea/</ was ])i.'i-niilted again to engage with 
 the jiahns and green water an.i Ihe coffee of Rachid. 
 I do n. it know the eii.l of the sl.irv ..f the poor Bed- 
 ouin who was saeriliceil by his sheik to preserve 
 the tribe in its aiiei. nl p.'ace. It was an incident by 
 ehance (>\ the caravan rout(\ where men ])ass, goin" 
 east a.nd W( st, an.l tiie tales they live issue in eon- 
 elusions beyond the ken of vanished travellers. 
 
 Tlu-rc presently arrivol from the dust and odors 
 .and shiftless litter of Kantara an animated group. 
 Here was the admirable Aboosh, m a saucy rage, 
 l)rowheating a greasy, jxip-evcd, corpulent Egyptian 
 in a womanish rerl skirt, who radiated the pomjiosity 
 of a nali\e magistrate, which, indeed, he confessed 
 
 198 
 
 I' V 
 
DOCS (JF THE ENGLISH 
 
 ti> l)i,'in,i;; and here was the IifscrchiiiL; (ilTcniKr, pat- 
 UTI11.1; ruiKMilaiKv with tlu' fcrx'dr and rc'>,nilarily <>( a 
 (iathiiL,' i,nin. his aLjcd lri!i(-'snian in mchmcholv echo 
 of the forlorn assault npon our s\-ni])athics. 
 
 Xo sooner had the He<|ouin eau.Ljht si.^iit of the 
 younger hha-u\ija tlian he dropi)ed prostrate, ;^ro\-elle(l 
 close, kissed the astounded youn<^ man's shoes, 
 clambered up liis le,L;<j;ini;s, and emliraced his knees; 
 and in this attitude of humiliation he continued a 
 not unmusical a_^ony of iileadiMi; until the youn.u'er 
 khaicaja discnij;aL,'ed himself and (led l.lushin<^' to liis 
 tent. Thus abandoned, the Bedouin lell at the feet 
 even of tliis Armenian Taufik (hut with a wrv faee^ 
 who dod<,vd bi'hind Rachid. lea\in,u the elder kha- 
 waja cxpose(l to the culprit's attentions. 
 
 I could not release my shoes, thou^'h what with 
 these caresses I toi)]iled perilouslv; and I was as 
 loath to strike as cruelly kick out. It was Cori^oral 
 Ali who stieked the man to his distance, and then 
 kept him in watchful custody, in the wav of a ])olice- 
 man who is used to the caleulatin.ij repentance of 
 sinners. In the mean time the eni^'a.ycmc'nt between 
 Aboosli and tht' cor])ulent ma.uistrate had j^one cres- 
 cendo to a deafenin>,' jiiti'h; wh;ite\er the ar<,nunent, 
 it liad elicited a noisy eloquence, in the exercise of 
 which the mai,nstrate had near lost his breath and 
 the draij;oman had alto,uetlier lost his tem|xT. 
 
 Twol)eni,a[nant travellers. ha\-in^ hitherto wandered 
 unmok'sted and unmolestin.i;l\-, we were cau^tt at kist , 
 it seemed, in a very tempest of belli,iL,'erent agitation. 
 
 M 199 
 
 l\ 
 
GOIXG DOWN FROM JERUSALEM 
 
 "Tliis >:reasy rascal oi a magi'^trati,',"' Aonosh in- 
 formal mc, "will <!') nothing; and wc ari' therefore 
 demeaned by him." 
 
 "What!" cried I, in wrath. 
 
 "They are all Mohammedans together," he ex- 
 plained. 
 
 I hail before been of the heart of compassion; but 
 I perceived, now, with risin.i,' indignation — such is 
 religious jfartisanship— that the crime of this bloinl- 
 thirstv and villanous Arab was of a nature to be 
 severely dealt witli under the law. 
 
 "What has that to do with the man's guilt'" I 
 demanded. 
 
 "The Mohammedan feast is near, and the Bedouin 
 is in haste to ctdebrate it with his tribe," Aboosh 
 answered; "the magistrate will not imprison him for 
 as much as three days, lest he be detained be\ond 
 the time." 
 
 "I will speak with him,"' said I, trueuk'ntly. 
 It chanced, however, that I had no nred to per- 
 suade the Egyptian; the persuasion was inadwrt- 
 cntly accotnplished by Ali .Mahmoml, tlie big mule- 
 teer, and that iri a most curious and informing man- 
 ner. Ali Mahmoud, having now arranged the cam]) 
 to his satisfaction, ran up the British tlag, accfmling 
 to his custom, and lumbered off to sit with the cook, 
 an eye on the pot, and a brexid red nose expanded to 
 the steam of the cooking. 
 
 The effect upon the magistrate was bewildering; 
 in a Hash he had transfi -nncd himself. 
 
 200 
 
DOGS OF THE E X G L I S H 
 
 "Wliat has come over tliis fellow;"" I asked the 
 dragonuin. 
 
 '■ He says," Ahoosh interrupted, with a triumphant 
 little lauj^'h, "that at Kantara they are the dogs of 
 the English. 'We are the dogs of the English,' he 
 says: 'what shall we do sufficiently to punish the 
 rascally Bedouin who has assaulted your excellency's 
 servants and secretary?' " 
 
 " Tell him that he must himself impose the punish- 
 ment," I re])lied; " luit in the name of Heaven! first 
 explain his acquiescence." 
 
 "Ali jMahmoud raised the uag." 
 
 " Did the man not know that we were British sub- 
 jects? Surely we speak the language!" 
 
 "It is true that you speak English," Aboosh an- 
 swered, significantly; "but you go clean-shaven, Hke 
 the Americans." 
 
 Forthwith the dogs of the English harried the 
 Bedouin off to jail. 
 
 'I ( 
 
 V 
 
XXXVIII 
 
 iiHi.i) rr 
 
 T 
 
 HERE was an intiTvat <if repose; and while we sat 
 at ease in the shade nf the lvn\, undistur'-ied by 
 the curious iif Kantara, who were k'.'jM olT l)y a patrol 
 in tlu' ])ers()n of Kachid, Aboosli ^ravelv n'!leeted, 
 a])parently occupied with a jiroVilem <if no small im- 
 ])()rtanee. It seemed hi' eould not determine whether 
 t(i bathe and arrav himself for the .^litterin.t,^ prome- 
 nades of Cairo at that moment or await another time 
 of U'ismx'; but ex'etituallv eoni'ludiniLi to ha\e the 
 sok-mn business over with, he departeil, t^raw as 
 befitted the a])proaehin;4 eeremony. I heard a iL^reat 
 s]ilashin;4, calls for the assistance' of Raehid. admir- 
 inij exclamations, an altercation, and a i^'cntle del)ate; 
 then roundabout passed Elias, the cook's boy, cry- 
 ins.', " Kha'd'dia Aboosh! KliLrudja Aboosh!" And 
 the admirable dra,!L,'oma.n responded, clad res])len- 
 dentlv below a suspicious slender waist, but not 
 readv for insjiection al)ove, one strand of his mus- 
 tache in a curl-paper ami the other hanginsj; dam]) 
 and lim|). 
 
 There was a i/lint of onicial braid about the xdsitor 
 
 202 
 
whom he received; and I observed that Elias S(t 
 stools and a table near by, and fetehed coffee, and 
 that Aboosh and the stranjrcT ,^ot their heads lo- 
 i;ether and laui,'hed a j^qvat deal, and in all seemed 
 to have an excellent time. But I was })rcsently 
 enlightened. Aboosh came to me wocbevonc, his 
 brows drawn with trouble, his hand pullini^ in an 
 agitated way at the unoccu])ied strand of his mus- 
 tache. " You know," said he, " that one of our horses 
 is worn and has for thrive da\s carried no bunlen' 
 Well," he continued, "this man is a (juarantine 
 officer, and the thini; has been reported to hiin. The 
 horse is in p;ood health, ;:s I know, having; observi'd 
 him carefully; but this man says that he has a run- 
 nins^ at the nose and will conmiunicate a pla.i^ue to all 
 the horses and camels of E.ijypt if he is permitted to 
 return over the desert to Jerusalem to-morrow, as I 
 had planned !" 
 
 "His L^reed is the doctor," said T. 
 
 "Truly," cried Ab(K)sh, distressed to the point of 
 tears; "but he has me at his mercy. I must either 
 waste the jirofits of this ]on_^ journey in maiTitainin^L; 
 my animals and men in a ([uarantine of three wet'ks 
 at Kantara or hand the last piastre of them to this 
 ,ureedy ofiicial." 
 
 "I would not pay one penny!" said I. 
 
 "That is not the way," he replied; "the man is 
 entitled to some small bribe from every traveller 
 who can , 'Tonl to pay. I do not wish to be ungener- 
 ous; but he seems like a hard man, and 1 think he 
 
 M 
 
G O I X G DOWN FROM J E R U S A L E M 
 
 will ilrm.'ii^.il more than his rij2;ht when he comes again, 
 even every piastre of my profits. " 
 
 "Has he named no sum?" I asked. 
 
 " No," the drai,'oman sii^'hed ; " he has not yet form- 
 ed an estimate of the amount of my ]">rofits." 
 
 "What shall you do to protect your pocket'" 
 said I. 
 
 " I will be clever in con\iTsation/' was the answer. 
 
 Here, indeed, was a pitv. Al)00sh had labored 
 dili;;j;enlly in our ser\'iee, and was a man of manv 
 ol;)li;^'ations, L^enerously as.sumed. 
 
 It occurre(l to me late in the afternoon that the 
 captured Brdouin init:;ht even thru be on trial; and 
 I dispatched Aboosh in haste to the villa;Te (two eurl- 
 ]iapers now cngai^inc^ his mustache) to make sure 
 that he was not punisht'd with undue severity by 
 these solicitous tlogs of the English. The obse- 
 ([uious magistrate had relieved me of attendance, 
 and my servants; nor, said he, would he put me to 
 the fatigue and disturbance of providing witnesses, 
 but would himself close the incident with neatness 
 and dispatch. It was a happy thing, therefore, that 
 Aboosh was present with a gift of mercy; for when 
 the dragoman arrived the zealous judge was on 
 the \-ery point of condemning the forsaken unfort- 
 unate to a year's servitude in the prison at Port 
 Said. 
 
 " You remember Mirza, the sheik of the Tribe of 
 Them That Had Heard?" the dragoman asked me, 
 
 204 
 
H ELD UP 
 
 having returner! to the lengthened shadow of my 
 tent. " You rememl)er that witli the elders of his 
 tr:l)e he drank ei)fTee with you in your encampment at 
 tile Weil of Ma/.aar. \'ou renieml)cr that you rode 
 th-ougli the salt-swamp and ate dates and drank 
 coffee with him and his elders in his tent? You re- 
 mtmher that you were ser\-ed wilh one cup — with 
 two cups — with the third eup? You have not for- 
 }.,'OLten the meaning of the third cup — that it signifies 
 nut only the friendship of the sheik, for mutual de- 
 fence and offence, hut the loyal devotion of his tribe ? 
 You rememl)er that, departing, you indulged Sheik 
 Mirza with a gift, and that he reeeiwd it, vowing his 
 devotion and the loyalty of his tribesmen to endure 
 forexer' Well," the dragoman concluded, with a 
 knowing little wink and grin, "these offending Bed- 
 ouins, of whom this man was the chief, are of the 
 Tribe of Them Tliat Had Heard, returning from 
 Cairo." 
 
 "What punishment was inflicted?" I asked. 
 
 "When I informed the man of these e^•changes of 
 Iiospitality," Aboosh replied, "he hung his head and 
 uept, crying out that he had shamed his tribe; and 
 in pity I persuaded the magistrate to reduce the 
 sentence to one week in the jail at Kantara." 
 
 The poor Bedouin had engaged my sympathies. 
 
 Night came, after a flaring sunset — of those great 
 cli.nids, flung mightily forth and wide-lying in the 
 west, terrible with heaviness and silence and lurid 
 
 20; 
 
 f,^ 
 
C. () I .\ ' •. DO \V \ I' 1< () M j i; K U S A I, i: M 
 
 colors. It was pnsiiitly 'lark; and luiv, aj,'ain, ;il] 
 roiinrlalH'Ul, was tli'' sa!i;r Wear invslny of stars, 
 kai'hi,! (.illrd us to ihr firi'. whiah crackled its ovn 
 iiu'ilatiiiii [i> tlu' warmth .mil shitting red li.uht ii a 
 \nic'r nt pt rsnasi\''- clui rfulnrss; and \\c sat dour in 
 till' sand, as wa Iiad tliisc many ni;4hts, in thr c<'in- 
 ])any < if all those who trawllad with ns and ol' what- 
 soever wanderers would he entertaitieil ;it our tal)l( . 
 Raehii] (.rooiKi] a lii\r-S(ini;, U> whii.h wa listt.'i":e(], 
 stirred but uneonijinhendiiiL:, and thirt'after ri'eited 
 witli relish a eumiMisitiMn whieh set lorth the heroism 
 <>{ the yiiuni,'er kluiwiii! in the Mfiody i'n;.,'ai;enient of 
 that day (who liad liren no hiTo at all) ; and .Mustafa, 
 that entLTtainin,^ eanit l-dri\ir, related his last in- 
 forminL: story; and Corjioral Ali, the Soudanesi', now 
 first disclosed liis ]irineily deseent, as to a eirele of 
 eternal friends, adriini; a diwrtini; ex]>lanation of his 
 situation of ser\itude with tlie Eni;lish; and the 
 \duns4er klhiwaiii induli^ently pert'ormed tricks of 
 mai^MC, to the delii^ht of little Ahmed, the camel-l»oy; 
 and liii^ Ali Mahmoud toM laui^'hable tales which 
 Alioosh would not rejU'at, thouL;h they con\ulsed the 
 whole com])any. Thesi' delimits of e\enini,f recurred 
 as when we travelled the remoter sands and there 
 was no lappinsj; water, no red and i,Teen li!j[hts drift- 
 ini; by, no inornint; jirospect of farewell and haste and 
 noise, no neiL;hl)orhood of dwellini^s, Imt only the 
 vacant desert, lyin;^ infinitely roimdabout utider the 
 stars. 
 
 Aboosh was withdrawn from our coinpanv 1)>- the 
 
 206 
 
 \. 
 
WE SAT D T V\ • . 
 
II !•: !. \) U P 
 
 aihx'ut of llir (|u,iiMiUiiU' DllictT, pn'StiitK- lie rc- 
 ji lined us uiiinow'd. 
 
 "Well?" I iiKiuirc'ij. 
 
 "I li,i\r maiK' a iiiistakt'," he \vliis|H'ri''l, t-i'mljiy. 
 ■'The man is a i_;rnllriiMn -tw.. iiap(;k;ons wcru suf- 
 ficient U) appease liini." 
 
 ( i 
 
 I' 
 
 1! 
 
 'I 
 
XXXIX 
 
 UAL'IUU GOES HOME 
 
 It 
 
 W\l wore (.Tirly ;isfir in tlir ni(>rnin<,'— abroad in 
 tlir c'll,] ;iir loivj, lie'lmv dawn- to ohlij^o the 
 t;rntkiiianly (|\!aranliii(_' (il'lkvr, whi i had provided, 
 whrn Uk' (Irani inian's -old touched liis palm, that the 
 Inasls whirh he liad iiiistakeuK- suspected of afflic- 
 tion nmsl newrtheless he outward Ixiund toward the 
 eastern desert before th break of dav. Wlien the 
 earawan was ready to (k_ al < ni the return journey 
 to Jerusalem, Aboosli took Ali Mah-noud aside, to 
 case iiis own heart of an oppression whieli had lont; 
 troulded liini: it beinj^ a perilous thinir. said he, for 
 Christians to be outnumbered liv Mohammedans on 
 the (U'Sert n lad, or Moliamniedans to be outnumbered 
 by Christians. 
 
 '■ Vou are all Mohammedans but the cook and 
 i->lias," he entreated the h'v^ muleteer, "and I charge 
 yi 111 ti > see that U' > harm bt'falls them— neither hunger 
 nor thirst nor ill treatment," and Mi Mahmoud made 
 the threefold Mohammedan oath to protect the shiv- 
 ering Christians in the ewnt of eatastrt)phe. 
 
 They went one by one — a glciomy, staggering cara- 
 
 208 
 
R A C HI D GOES H O M !• 
 
 van— over tlie hills to the shac' vs of the plain, and 
 were there enfolded from otii Mew; but Elias, the 
 cook's boy, lin-zered to strap the third saddle-bag 
 upon the ^rax" stallion I had ri<Klen, though I had 
 warned him that the beast wfmld carry no burden 
 save his rider. He was a youth over-eontident, and 
 presently in hard case, for he was instantly thrown; 
 but he mounted again, with a laugh, and was once 
 more toppled (U'er the horse's head. Aboosh called 
 to Aii .Mahmoud, who came back in a rage with the 
 folly of Elias; and the two went away together, in 
 melancholy fashion. Tlie last glimpse we had of our 
 engaging followers revealed a boy from Jerusalem 
 afoot and crx'ing heart il\-. 
 
 We said good-bye to Coqioral Ali last of all— this 
 when the sun was high, the' village Hie astir. 
 
 "0.)rporal Ali," I said, imj^ressively, "I have a 
 grave commission, which you will perform upon our 
 departure." 
 
 The Soudanese came to rii;id attenti'm. 
 
 "Do you, then," I enjoined, "go instantly to the 
 ma";istrate and commantl the release of that Bed- 
 ouin." 
 
 "The khawaja,'' he replieil, smiling, "has learned 
 mercy." 
 
 It is a lesson not difficult to learn. 
 
 Rachid went with us. To him, on the night before, 
 had come two gold pieces, with which he must found 
 the fortune he woukl raise in C;iiro: and he was trulv 
 
 209 
 
(1 () I X (; DOW \ F K () .M J i: K L- S A L li M 
 
 <)\(TJi)yt'il, !>ul sail], with many ahjccl linws, Ihal, 
 havin.L; for tlircr ni^lits ilreanunl of liis tiKilliLT, he 
 iinisL fnR'L;M the <lch'i;hts of tlu- ciU- and return to 
 Jt.Tusak'm witli the niuk'terrs. I was not surprised, 
 lio\ve\er, to iinil h.im new-mindcil in thie niorr.iiig. 
 I'niler the whv^ <if a Soudanese who ha(l for three 
 (hiys followed our eain]), he jiroeeeded witli us, now 
 elated, now ".tterly east down and wee]")in,L,'. That 
 (-wnin;,', in Cairo, he appeareil at the hoti'l door — 
 with fresh-sha\en head and \-oun,ij; beanl, ])ut other- 
 wise deplorably raj^'j^'ed — to give us a frieridly greet- 
 in;_;; he would never again sec Jerusalem, said he, 
 sinee the delights of Egypt wire so manv and so 
 d.t'lieious. From time to time in the davs that fol- 
 lowed he accosted us on tlie street, or waited patient- 
 ly for our coming; and we olist'r\-ed that ui)on each 
 occasion he was less agreeable to the eve. Event- 
 ually (as we leanu'di, ha\'ing parted with his gold 
 pii'ces in the ]~)ursuit of lia])])iness, he bethought him- 
 self, on tlie <. . of the Feast of Ramadan, of an cx- 
 ])edient, and with his last f]\e ])iastres procured a 
 scribe to fashion messagi's to us, interjjrel ing Rachid's 
 own words. Thesi' in hand, he presented liiinself, 
 smiling ingratiatingly, and in much embarrassment 
 awaited the response. I read : " I am Rachid, your 
 poor servant, come with you from Jerusalem. I beg 
 the graces from you for to buy new clothes for the 
 feast. Good feast!" 
 
 I hesitated. 
 
 "Tell the hhaivaja," Rachid whispered to Aboosh, 
 
 2IO 
 
 l.Va 
 
RACH ID GOES HOME 
 
 with tears, "that I have no need of fiiKTy, but wish 
 only to ^o home to my city." 
 
 It blew high next nit^^hl : I piticl Rachid, bound 
 across the sea from Port Said to Jaffa, but I was ylad 
 that he had gone home. 
 
 TH1-; KXD. 
 
r 
 
 3 SOTS QOQ 
 
 mSM