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I /r -1. nil 1 1, ill , II j> — — • BY PERMISSION OF LADY FRANKLIN AND GAPT, M'OLINTOCK, R-N-; LL.a CATALOGUE ot FOURTEEN STEREOSCOPIC SLIDES 01" %\t JftanKlin §lelws, Brougrht home in tlie " Fox," by Captain SI'Clintook, in September, 1869, PHOTOGRAPHED AND PUBLISHED BY LIETJT. CHOTE. 1{.N. At the United Service, Whitehall, by permission of the CounoU of that ItmiUatioa. \-"\ \' i «4 hi / 4iMi' ; ^■" .««« izc/A/o:) ^ I At BY PERMISSION OF LADY FRANKLIN AND CAPT. M'CLINTOCK, R.N., L.L.D, 1 CATALOGUE OP FOURTEEN STEREOSCOPIC SLIDES K OF Cfe^ JfrEitklm llclifs, Brought ihome in the " Fox," by Captain M'Clintock, in September, 1859. PHOTOGRAPHED AND PUBLISHED BY LIEUT. CHEYNE, R.N. At the United Service, Whitehall, by permisBion of the ConnoU of that Institution. V Letter from Lady Franklin to Lieut. Cheyne, R.N. " 13, Park Place, " St. James's Street, "January 28tli, 1830. V " Dear Mr. Cheyne, " In reply to your note, I beg to assure you that I can have no objection to the publication of your descriptive Catalogue of the Eelics brought home by Captain M'Clintoek in the ' Fox,' nor to the publication of the beautiful Photographs you have made of them and of the Eecord. " It gives me much satisfaction that this work should have been undertaken and worthily executed by an oiRcer who has himself served with great credit in three Arctic Expeditions. " Sincerely yours, " JANE FRANKLIxN " I r.vi PREFACE. V !■' The first great discoverer of the long sought for North-west Passage has passed from among us, and the name of Franklin must, for ages to come, he revered by every Englishman^ Dying, surrounded by a faithful few, whom he had carried thus far on a brilliant track of hitherto unexplored regions, the North-west Passage— in connexion with his former discoveries on the northern coast of America—completed, he has loft a name that will spread a soft and sacred lustre over our land : indeed, we may almost say, "Franklin lives," for has he not died only to spring up afresh and enduringly in the united hearts of all his countrymen, where his name will ever be a talisman of enterprise, courage, and glory! Could we remove the veil that shrouds in mystery the fate of those who survived him, what harrowing scenes would be brought to light i—the perishing, singly, of man after man, as they became individually exhausted during their dreary and hopeless march towards the living world ; the still onward progress of the stronger, who were doomed to see their more fainting comrades drop, one by 6 one, without the possibility of affording a helping hand to save tliem ; the growing knowledjje — which must have slowly but surely stolen upor them like a dread apparition — that their turn would arrive next! And thus must that deadly marc!i have gone on, until, out of 105 souls, the last man lay down to die, bringing as it were home, to him, the verifi- cation of Campbell's beautiful lines, wherein he savs, — " The eclipse of nature spreads my pall, * The majesty of darkness shall Receive my parting ghost I " Go, 6un, while mercy holds me up, On nature's awful waste. To drink this last and bitter cup Of grief that man shall taste. Go, tell the night that hides thy face, Thou saw'st the last of (Franklin's) race, f On earth's sepulchral clod. The darkening universe defy To quench his immortality, Or shake his trust in God ! (C Yes, I shall live again, and shine In bliss unknown to beams of thine. By Him recall' d to breath, Vv'ho captive led captivity, Who robb'd the grave of victory, And took the sting from death ! " • In great probability, the last of these heroic men died at the commencement of winter, when the sun departs for several weeks (rom tho?e latitudes. t Race, — meaning a collective family, — may be applied here, with regard to Sir John Franklin's followers, aa, amongst ^liemselves, they were one family, separated from the rest of the world. d k F F h( V w I Y '* It is a rer ' jrkable circumstance (says Captain MClintock) that wlien, in 1830, Sir James Hess discovered Point Victory, he named two points of land, then in sight, Cape Franklin and Cape Jane Franklin, respectively. Eighteen years afterwards Franklin's ships perished within sight of those headlands." A SHORT ABSTRACT OF THB VOYAGE OF THE ''FOX." The number of Government and private expe- ditions that have been sent out in search of the missing one, the continued and strenuous eflforta of Lady Franklin — successful at the last, — the noble way in which the Americans joined the cause, the generous manner in which French officers aided, (one of whom — Bellot — lost his life owing to the disruption of the ice in Wellington Channel during a heavy gale of wind), — are now 80 well known to the counti^ as to need no re- capitulation here. Suffice it, then, to glean a few extracts from the narrative of Captain M'Clintock, who has returned in safety to England, to reap the reward of his successful enterprise, bringing with him the precious Secord, and the melancholy Eelics of Franklin's expedition, and but too well proving the sad end of those embarked in it. The steam screw yacht "Fox," formerly the property of Sir Richard Sutton, Bart., was pur- chased by Lady Franklin from his executors for H £2,000, the expenses of the expedition amounting altogether to £i0,412 198. She was 177 tons burthen, and of a build most admirably adapted for the service she was employed on. Out of the twenty-five souls composing those who shared in this expedition, seventeen had previously served in the Arctic search. On the 1st July, 1857, the "Fox" left Aber- deen ; Cape " Farewell," the southern extremity of Greenland, was sighted on the 12th ; and on the 12th August, th ,y arrived in Melville Bay, making fast to an iceberg that was aground in 348 feet of water. The great Greenland glacier, which here takes the place of the coast line, is thus described by Captain M'Clintock : " One cannot at once appreciate the grandeur of this mighty glacier, extending unbroken for 40 or 50 miles. * * * * " Here, on the spot, it does not seem incorrect to compare the icebergs to mere chippings off its edge, and the floe ice to the thinnest shavings. The far-off outline of glacier, seen against the eastern sky, has a faint tinge of yellov/ : it is almost horizontal, and of unknown distance and elevation. * * * * " The glacier serves to remind one at once of time and of eternity : of time, since we see por- tions of it break off to drift and melt away ; and of eternity, since its downward march is so ex- tremely slow, and its augmentations behind so regular, that no change in its appearance is per- ceptible from age to age. " If even the untaught savages of luxuriant tro- pical vegions • '^ard tlic earth merely as a temporary abode, surely all who ga/e upon this ice-over 10 whelmed region, this wide expanse of ' terrestrial wreck,' must be similarly assured that here * we have no abiding place.' * * * * " Far within the glacier an occasional mountain peak protrudes from beneath." On the 27th August, the "Fox" was beset in the pack ; and, with the exception of moving a few yards now and then, remained a helpless fix- ture, drifting down Baffin's Bay for the space of 242 days, during which time she drifted a distance of 1385 statute miles. After sevd'al narrow escapes of total destruction from continued dis- ruptions of the ice, she was fairly released on the 26th April, 1858, but not befo/e running a gauntlet at the pack edge (where the open sea meets the continuous ice), such as, to use Captain M'Clin- tock's words nearly, " might have sufficed to turn their heads grey in a few hours." None but those who know what Arctic Navigation is can appreciate such a dangerous scene. Captain M'Clintock, — to whom great difficulties served only as spurs to increased energies, and (if possible) a more set determination to accomplish his important task, — no sooner got clear of the pack, than, after getting a few necessaries in a Greenland port, turned the " Fox's " head to the Northward again, and, after much anxious work, succeeded in reaching Beechy Island, the first winter quarters of Sir John Franklin, on the 11th August, where he erected a monument that had been sent out by Lady Franklin, to the memory of Sir John and his followers. On the 21st, the "Fox" we 11 arrived at Ballot Strait, down Prince Eegent's inlet, after having first attempted the Peel Strait, but not succeeding in forcing either passage, they were compelled to take up their winter quarters in Port Kenedy, at the entrance of Bellot Straits. On the Ist March, 1859, while travelling, and being at the time encamped about the position of the magnetic pole. Captain M'Clintock fell in with the Boothian Esquimaux, who, numbering about forty-five souls, were found to have in their possession some of the relics of Franklin's Expe- dition, consisting of silver spoons, forks, &c., which were immediately purchased. Erom these natives, information was obtained that a three masted ship had been crushed by the ice, and sunk in the sea, to the west of King William's Island, but that all the people landed safely j this information they had received from otlier Esqui- maux, but they said, " they had themselves seen the bones of the white men upon the island where they died, though some were buried." These natives erected a snow hut for Captain M'Clintock's party, 8 feet in diameter, and 5^ feet in height, for which they received the payment of a needle each. On the 20th April this party of natives gave further information that a second ship had been crushed by the ice, but instead of sinking, was forced on shore, and that from her they had obtained most of their wood, &c. They stated also, that the body of a man was found on board the ship j that it was in the fall of the year when the ships were destroyed ; that all the white 12 people went away to the "large river" (Back's Fish Rivei"), taking boats with them; and that in the following winter their bones were found there. On the 7th May, Esquimaux of King William's Island were fallen in with, from them Captain M'Clintock purchased six pieces of silver plate, bearing the crest or initials of Franklin, Crozier, Fairholme, and McDonald ; the spoons and forks were sold for four needles each. They stated it to be five days journey to the wreck (which was on the western coast of King William's Land), that very little remained of it ; they had burned the masts through in order to get them down ; there were many books, but they had long ago been destroyed by the weather. One woman said that many of the white men dropped by the way, as they went to the " Great River ;" that some were buried and some not ; they had discovered their bodies during the winter following. On the 26th May, Captain M'Clintock dis- covered a skeleton (which is described after the contends of No. 3 case of relics). In the same month, Lieutenant Hobson dis- covered a deserted boat, and the important Frank- lin Record, of which Captain M'Clintock got information in a note left at the cairn by Lieutenant Hobson : " The record speaks for itself, but the writer in his haste made a mistake with regard to the date of the ship's wintering at Beechy Island, since they passed their winter at that place in in 1845-6, instead of 1846-7, as is proved by the internal evidence of the Record itself." 13 Captain M'Clintock says : "We find that, after the last inteHigence of Sir John Franklin was received by us (bearing date of July 1845) from the Whalers in Mel- ville Bay, his Expedition pajaed on to Lan- caster Sound, and entered Wellington Chan- nel, of which the ii^outhern entrance had been discovered by Sir Edward Parry, in 1819. The ' Erebus ' and * Terror ' sailed up that strait for one hundred and fifty miles, and reached in the autumn of 1845, the same latitude as was attaind, eight years subsequently by H. M. S. 'Assistance ' and * Pioneer.' Sir John Franklin's Expedition, having accomplished this examination, returned southward from latitude 77 deg. north, which is at the head of Wellington Channel, and re-entered Barrow's Strait by a New Channel between Bath- urst and Cornwallis Islands. " Seldom has such an amount of success been accorded to an Arctic Navigator in a single season ; and when the * Erebus ' and ' Terror ' were secured at Beechy Island for the coming winter of 1845-6, the results of their first years labour must have been most cheering. These results were the ex- ploration of Wellington and Queen's Channel, and the addition to our charts of the extensive lands on either hand. In 1846, they proceeded to the south-west, and eventually reached within twelve miles of the north extreme of King William's Land, when their progress was arrested by the approaching winter of 1846-7. That winter appears to have passed without any serious loss of life ; and when in the spring Lieutenant Gore leaves with a party for some especial purpose, and very probably to connect t!.e unknown coast-line of ]K[inor A^ilji'am's Land b'^'l'wppn Point Vinfnrv and Cape Herschel, those on board the ' Erebu? ' and 14 * Terror ' were ' all well,' and the gallant Franklin still commanded. "But, alas! round the margin of the paper upon which Lieutenant Gore, in 1847, wrote these words of hope and promise, another hand liad subsequently written the following wo^ds : " 'April 25, 1848.— H. M. Ships " Terror " and "Erebus "were deserted on the 22nd Ap/il, 5 leagues N.N.W. of this, having been beset since 12th September, 18^6. The officers and crews, consisting of 105 souls, under the command of Captain F. E. M. Crozier, landed here in lat. 69 deg. 37 min. 42. sec. N., long. C8 deg. 41 sec. W. Sir John Franklin died on the 11th June, 1847 J and the total loss by deaths in the expe- dition has been to this date, 9 officers, and 15 men. "'(Signed) JAMES FITZJAMES, " ' Captain, H. M. S. "Erebus." " '(Signed) F. E. M. CEOSIEE, " ' Captain and Senior Officer. " ' And start (on) to-morrow, 26th, for Back's Fish Eiver.' "This marginal information was evidently writ- ten by Captain Fitzjaraes, excepting only the note stating when and where they were going, which was added by Captain Crozier. " The marginal information shows that Com- mander Gore had also died. "In the short space of twelve months how mournful had become the history of Franklin's Expedition; how changed from the cheerful * all well ' of Graham' Gore ! The spring of 1847 found them within 90 miles of the known sea off the coast of America ; and to men who had already in two seasons sailed over 500 miles of previously 15 M unexplored waters, how confident must they then have felt that that forthcoming navigable season of 1847 would see their ships pass over so short an intervening space. " It was ruled otherwise. Within a month after Lieutenant Gore placed the record on Point Yic- tory, the much loved leader of the expedition, Sir John Franklin, was dead ; and the following spring found Captain Crozier, upon whom the command had devolved, at King William's Land, endeavouring to save his starving men, 105 souls in all, from a terrible death by retreating to the Hudson's Bay territories, up the Back or Great Fish Kiver. "A sad tale was never told in fewer words. There is somethingdeeply toucliing in their extreme simplicity, and they show in the strongest manner that both the leaders of this retreating party were actuated by the loftiest sense of duty, and met with calmness and decision the fearful alternative of a last bold struggle for life, rather than perish without effort on board their ships ; for we well know that the " Erebus " and " Terror " were only provisioned up to July, 1848. * * * * Lieutenant Ilobson's note told me that he found quantities of clothing and articles of all kinds lying about the cairn, as if these men, aware that they were retreating for their lives, had there abandoned everything which they considered superfluous." On the 30th May, Captain M'Clintoct en- camped alongside a large boat, that had been discovered a few days previously by Lieutenant Hobson. A vast quantity of tattered clothing was lying in her. # # * rjj^jg ^^^^^ i^.^^ ^een 16 evidently equipped with the utmost care, for the ascent of the Great Fish Eiver. # # # She was mounted up on a strong sledge. The total weight of boat and sledge may be taken at 1400 lbs., the boat alone weighing about from 600 to 700 lbs. Captain M'Clintock says, in describing the boat : "But all these were after observations; there was that in the boat which transfixed us with awe. It was portions of two human skele- tons. One was that of a slight, young person ; the other of a large, strongly made, middle-aged man. The former was found in the bow of the boat, but in too much disturbed a state to enable Hobson to judge whether the sufferer had died there; large and powerful animals, probably wolves, had destroyed much of this skeleton, which may ^ave been that of an officer. * * * '^he other skeleton was in a more perfect state, and was enveloped in clothes and furs : it lay across the boat, under the after thwart. Close beside it were found five watches ; and there were two double-barreled guns — one barrel in each loaded and cocked — standing muzzle upwards against the boat's side." On the 19th June, Captain M'Clintock re- turned on board the " Fox," and the other travelling parties, under Captain Young and Lieutenant Hobson, returned respectively on the 28th and the 14th June, On the 10th August, the " Fox " left Port Kenedy, her winter quarters, leaving two of their shipmates buried there, (these being the engineer and engine driver, Captain M'Clintock was obliged to manage the engine himself,) passed Cape Farewell on the 10th Se] th( Ca dis He tot chi 4 17 September, and arrived in dock at Blackwall on the 23rd of the same month. The extent of new coast line explored by Captain Young amounts to 380 miles, whilst that discovered by Captain M'Clintock and Lieutenant Hobson amounted to nearly 420 miles, making a total of 800 geographical miles added to the charts. CATALOGUE 07 ^^t gxnnklxn '§^dxcB, -»o^«c;c No. 1. Found in the Boat with the two Skeletons, Two double barrel guns, one barrel in each is loaded, they were found in the after part of the boat, standing muzzle upwards, and close against one of the skeletons. Found at Boss Cairn, Point Victory. A medicine chest, containing 25 small bottles, canister of pills, ointment, plaster, oiled silk, &e. A circular brass plate, broken out of a wooden gun case, and engraved C. H. Osmer, E.N. The field glass, and german-silver top of a 2 foot telescope. A 6 inch double frame sextant, on which the owner's name is engraved, Frederick Hornby, E.N. A 6 inch dip circle, by Eobinson, marked 1.22. Box for dipping needle. of a 19 Found at Northern Cairn, near Cape Felix. A small apparatus for cooking, and a few brimstone matches, also a tea canister. No. 2. Found at the Northern Cairn, near Cape Felix. Fragments of a boat's ensign, the only British flag recovered from the expedition. No. 3. Found lying about the Skeletons, 9 miles east of Cape Herschel. The tie of a black silk neckerchief, fragments of a double-breasted blue cloth waistcoat, with covered silk buttons and edged with braid, a scrap of a coloured cotton shirt, silk covered buttons of blue cloth great coat, a small clothes brush, a horn pocket-comb. Found en the east side of Montreal Island. Part of the rim of some strong copper case, a piece of iron hoop, two pieces of flat iron, an iron hook bolt, and a piece of sheet copper. The finding of the first-mentioned articles about the skeleton is thus described ^ ' Captain M'Chntock : " Shortly after midnight of the 25th May, when slowly walking along a gravel ridge, near the beach, which the winds kenfc riartiallv bare of snow I came upon a human skeleton, partially exposed, with 20 here and there a few fragments of clothing appear- ing through tJie snow. The skeleton, now perfectly bleached, was lying upon its face, the limbs and smaller bones either dissevered, or gnawed away by small animals. * # # rjijg substance of that which we gleaned upon the spot may thus be summed up : " This victim was a young man, slightly built, and perhaps above the common height, the dress appeared to be that of a steward, or officer's servant. # * # j^ every particular the dress confirmed our conjectures as to his rank or office in the late expedition, — the blue jacket with slashed sloeves and braided edging, and the pilot cloth great coat with plain covered buttons. We found also a clothes brush near, and a horn pocket-comb. " This poor man seems to have selected the bare ridge top, as affording the least tiresome walking, and to have fallen upon his face in the position in which we found him. • " It was a melancholy truth thb,t the old woman spoke when she said ' they fell down and died as they walked along.' " No. 4. jTound in the Boat. A small Prayer Book; cover of a nMiall book of Family Prayers ; Christian Melodies, an in- scription within the cover to " Gf.Gr." (Grahatn Gore ?) ; Yicar of Wakefield ; a ^mall Bible, inter- lined in many places, and with numerous refer- ences within in the margin ; a New Testament in the French language. 21 No. 5. Fouvd in the Boat. A email pair of scissors rolled up in blank paper, and to which acheres a printed government paper, buch as an ofEcer's warrant or appoint- ment ; a. small uead purse ; a piece of sealing wax ; German- silver stopper of a pocket flask ; a brass match box ; a small tin cylinder, probably made to hold lucifer matches ; a piece of canvas ; cover of a Testament ; part of a grass cigar case ; a piece of scented soap ; a pair of goggles, made of stout leather and Wi'e gauze instead of glass ; a seaman's clasp knife ; two small glass stoppered bottles (full) ; a German-silver pencil-case ; a pair of silver forceps ; two spectacle glasses ; a snood- irg line rolled up on a piece of leather ; an awl ; spring hooks of sword belt ; a gold-lace band ; a brass charger for holding two charges of shot ; a glass seal, with symbol of freemasonry ; a piece of thin gold twist or cord ; a gimblet ; part of a cherry-stick pipe stem ; two table knives, with white handles, one is marked W. R. ; a small brass pocket compass. No. 6. Found in the Boat. A clay-bowl pipe ; a ball of worsted ; a leather boot-lace ; two pieces of copper j two cases of needles and thread : two pieces of handkerchief; a pair of goggles, having crape instead ot glass ; a 22 green crapo veO, to protect the eyes from snow- blindness J a sailmaker's palm. No. 7. Found in the Boat. Two pieces of port fire; roll of waxeu twine ; bristles; copper nails; bullets; telescopes ; wooden button ; shot, in finger of kid glove ; a bayonet scabbard, altered into a sheath for a knife; a woollen glove ; cartridge ; cartridge shot charges ; shot pouches; flannel; percussion caps; stanchions 9 inches long, for supporting a weather cloth that was round the boat ; piece of canvas ; two packets of blank cartridge, found in green paper. No. 8. Found in tie Boat. Two chronometers, marked "Parkinson and Frodsham, 980," " Arnold, 2020 ;" three watches ; eleven silver spoons, and seven silver forks. " In the after part of the boat we discovered eleven large spoons, eleven forks, and four tea- spoons, all of silver ; of these cwenty-six pieces of plate, eight bore Sir Jolm Franklin's crest, the re- mainder had the crests or initials of nine different officers, with the exception of a single fork which was not marked ; of these nine officers, five be- longed to the ' Erebus,'— Gore, Le Vesconte, Fairholmo, Couch, and Goodsir. Three others belonged to the * Terror,'— Crozier (a teaspoon only), Hornby, and Thomas. One of the watchea i 23 boro the crest of Mr. Couch of the 'Erebus.' The owner of the unmarked fork was not known ; nor of three articles having an owl engraved on them. Captain M'Clintock remarks that the sil- ver was most likely issued to the men for their use, as the only means of saving it." Block with hook, belonging to boat. No. 9. Obtained from the "Bootldan Esquimaux^ near the Magnetic Pole. Six spoons and two forks, bearing the crest of Sir John Franklin ; the head of a fish, surrounded with laurel stems ; silver belonging to Lieutenants Fairholme and H. De Yesconte, A. Macdonald, Assistant Surgeon, and Lieutenant E. Couch (supposed from the initial letter T and crest a lion's head) ; five buttons ; piece of r gold chain ; a broken piece of silver gilt ornamental work ; handle of a desert knife (by Milikin, Strand) ; a model of a sledge. 1 No. 10. Obtained from the JBoothian Esquimaux. Seven knives made by the Esquimaux out of materials obtained from the last expedition ; two files ; arrows, in which wood^ iron, or copper had been used in the construction. 24 No. 11. The record case ; a 2 foot rule j two joints of the cleaning rod of a gun ; a outton j a piece of a brass curtain rod. Found at the Nortliern Cairn^ near Cape Felix. Two pike heads ; some packages of needles ; metal lid of a powder case ; part of a pair of steel spectacles ; brass screw,, for screwing down lid j two eye pieces of sextant tubes ; bungstay of a mariner's water keg ; rib bones of salt pork ; two pieces of white china rimmed with blue. \) No. 12. The Hecord. No. 13. The YacWFoxr No. 14. Captain M'ClintocJc's Fortrait. \)