^> ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I Hi K£ 2.2 1^ 1.8 1-25 1.4 |||.6 ^ 6" ► V] %' ^ ' signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN ". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film^s d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'Images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants lllustrent la mdthode. 32X / 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 mummf^mmiv iiijui ipi AMERICA AND THE ^^MERIO^ViSrS. THE THEATRES. THE STREET8. THE CARS. * THE NEWSPAPERS. NEW YORK, k PHILADELPHIA. THE LADIES. THE RESTAURANTS. THE RACKS. THE WAITERS. ALhANY. NIAGARA. JACQUES QFFENBACII, Comjtoser of " T/ie a rand Duuheas" " La Belle Hiline,' " OrpMe aux Enfers,"^o.,4c. ITondon : WILLIAM REEVES, 185, FLEET STREET, E.O. PUBLISHER OF MVSICAL WORKS. Entered nt Stationers' Hall, and all rights protected. : I' «■' I; l^ 40:^J5 ^'' V An slid ^18 11 III the the cst< for mi; inii life mci thi ori sui ])fi Lu thi on 1 1 mm ii i '^i'"— '""—'' PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. An adage of respectable antiquity tells ua tUat it is desirable we should seooirselves as others see us. Custom is apt to habituate UH to absurdities which at once htrike the eye of the unprejudiced aad unfamiliar observer. Things whicli appear ordinary to ur, move " the occasional visitor to laughter, while the unbiassed critic can find the more or less fatal flaw even in that which in our superlative self- esteem we deem to be perfect. On the other hand, the " intelligent foreigner" wi'' -I'scover amongst us thinps and customs which, ad- mirable ill tiio^uselves, are peculiar to ourselves, and worthy of imitation. Every nation and people can in the details of its daily life exhibit something which its fellow nations can follow with more or less advantage. But of course wo must not go too far ir; this direction and accept only the peculiarities of the nation wc criticise. It would be i'llo to emulate the complacency of the ob- servant American, who on his return to New York insisted upon i)frpetually wearing in the button hole of his coat the ribbon of the Legion of Honour. The American defended his conduct on the plea that the ribbon was the latest fashion in Paris, and that as he had only just quitted France he ought to know. In the following pages M. Utfenbacb does not pretend to give anj very exhaustive account of Auieiica and the Americans, nor does he affect to believe that all ho states is ITION. SoiiKtimt'ij tho conchi- falsc. But they are in- ^'reiit French musioa) ted tiiste for exag<,'eratioii ;8 in the United States. r than others notice the \[. But there is also not ks been sinned against Oilenbach in the United inderstood not a word of lie Icourtosy of a French' i&. He asked frequent ve him the most absurd lim questioniug in public. ;. Once he fairly lost hi» msued at his expense he lie Restaurants and the ere is underlying n vast rit of fun, and a fund of Eike his little book emi- her parts of the book, M. larks on these topics are d experience, and of one- i created for himself the lays in his native city of iralised French subjects poor teacher of singing ;eep body and soul toge- his offspring which i» race, he foiind the means 1 Germany children an- y the State, but the ac- ngo, when Offenbach wa» ) provide for themselves . irr Alexander in the art t of a shilling a lesson ; PUEf.VCE TO TIIK KNIIMSH KDITIOX. V. indeed, so alight was tho pecunic.ry credit of the Offenbach family that Hen Alexander declined to " give trust." The shilling must be laid on the table before the commencement of the lesson. No money, no instruction. But that M. Offenbach has every right which ability and experience can give, to speak upon tjuestiuns of art, is a rrenorally admitted fact. For tiiough known to fame chiefly as a popular composer of opera- bouife, M. Offenbach gained his knowledge of music and of the world in a far different sphere of life. When tne composer was yet but a child, the Offenbach family removed from Cologne, and settled in Paris, where .facques had tho benetit of instruction at the Conserva- toire. Here, in 183.')'4, he studied music in general, and the violoncello in particular, and within the next ten years he had gained for himself a high reputation as a violoncellist. He became a member of tho orchestra of the Thtatre-Fransais, and in 1847, on the retirement of ' M. Barbereau, he was appointed conductor in chief at the leading French Theatre. The reputation of tho orchestra of the Corned io- Frangaise he raised to a height which it never subsequently attained, and indeed, very shortly after M. OHenbacli (luitted his post to under- take tho more lucrative employment oi i\ composer of opera-bouffe and director of the Boutfes-Parisieus, the orchestra of the Thi'atre Frangais was wholly abolished. But while still at the great French temple of the drama, M. Offenbach wrote overtures and orchestral pieces more numerous than can readily bo remembered, and his celebrity as a violoncellist was sustained at its height. Indeed many English amateurs can still call to mind the duets at Holland House, at a time when the violoncello was held by M. Offenbach, and the piano was played by Mr. James Davison, a justly honoured and highly respected musical critic, who is happily still living and working in our midst. M. Offenbach's work on " America and tho Americans," must there- fore bo accepted in the spirit in which it is offered. We can laugh at the quaintly told storj' of the dtbut of the composer as a mariner, even as we can observe with admiration hia expressions of love for his family, and with mingled interest and amusement his account of Xew York, with its streets, its cars, its houses, its theatres, and its hotels. Tho articles on American liberty, on ad vertisoments, and on Friendly so- cieties, contain a great many home truths, always intermingled with t: ^rmmmir^mm VI. pukkacf. to Tin; i:N(ii.tsu kihtion. in spite of {iccnaioiml tiilliiitf exiijjgeriition, does not appear iit all incon- gruous. M. Offenbach'* hatred of the music of Horr NVagner is mont appiuunt, nor cousidorinij tiiat Horr Wagner has most unmercifully KjitiriNcd the French opera houllo writer, is the fact at all surprisini,'. Hut M. Oftenbach never deHcondH to invective, preferring rather to hhatter hia adversary by light and gooJ-huniourod wit. In short, M. < m'enbach has the best possible right to say with Iloaumarchais' FUmro, " I'raised by .somo, iiud blamed by othori*, 1 hasten to laugh at every- thing, lest I bo compelled to wetp." CUj ;i ' 1 \ X 1 wn i:i>nit)K. IS not appear ut all iiicon- I if Itorr NVagner U moMt • lias most tinmercifully o fact at all surprisiiii,'. vo, preforring ratlur to nrcd wit. In short, M. ;h lluaumarchais' F'njnio, uistoii to laugh ut every- comte:nts. ClIAPTEIl. 1. II. I'nLiAi ►• , -UeIOIII'. SlAHTIN(i. -The Vovaqe. NEW YORK. HI.— GiLMonp.'"* Gaiiuens IV.— The lIoLXE.s, the SiiiErr.-, uiE Caiim. v.— The TiiBATiiEs op New Yohk. VI. — AiiT IN America. viL— The Restauranth. Three Tyi-es or \V VIII.— The Ladieh. Tin; Ixtkodlm tion. Tin. P IX.- American Lidkrty. \. — CORrOHATlONS AND SoCIETIE". XJ. Puffery XII.— The Raies. XIII.— The American Press XIV.— Sketches of Celebiuties. (/.—Mr. Bennett /).— Mn. Manager Maurice Guau. u. — CoNDOCTOR Theodore Thomas. (/. — Maretzek. e. — Weber /,— Mora g. — Mara k.-X Ses.vtor. AITEKS. Altli. PHILADELPHIA. XV.— The Citv. XVI.— Offc.vbacii Garden. JBKMJi^ I'AllK. II 20 23 L'8 aa .-17 4a 4« -10 QI o3 m (ii (i-j i->a (i4 (14 Cm 05 )t5 (58 ^"mfumm iipiiMinijipaiii.wT- vin. CONTEXTS. XIAGAEA. XVII. — Plllma.n Cabs. XVIII.— Tub Falls of Nlvoaua. XIX.— The Lost Daui-iux op France. XX. — Ketcuk rnoM Niagaha. T;in Slkeping Cars XXI. — AUTOGUAI'IIS. XXIT. The Punishment op a Musician. XXIII. The Farewkll AprEAiUNCE XXIV.— Home Again 71 74 76 7« 78 80 82 8» At for: I 1< par* sarj thoE tot] war certi I W( I and tud€ chill to ii Due foug 8*7 : oouk whi{ L \BS. AMERICA AND THE AMERICiNS. CHAPTER I. BEFORE STARTING. At the end of the spring of 1875, I had retired with my family for a brief holiday to that favourite npot, the TeiTace of St. Germain. I love this charming retreat, ar 1 I had taken refuge there, very pardonably hoping to obtain that repose which was the more neces- sary as I had undergone the fatigue of a most laboriouf; winter. My door had been forbidden to all strangers, and especially to those of whom there was the slightest suspicion that they belonged to the theatre. Twenty years of work, of strife, and of continual warfare were suflBcient for me, and I laid down a law, which was certainly hard and faat, but which ast victories, and possibly also of our battles to oome. As we were conversing, a ser/ant brought in a card, on which I read a aame which was cbnyletely unknown to me. A w ^ ^ Wm. 12 jOntKlCK AND THE AMBRICANB. I went ottv to chide the servant, when I foun.i myself face to face with the owner of the card. He was a veiy courteous and a very polite gentleman, but I guessed at once the truth, and resigned myself to my fate. " Sir " said he, " pardon my forcible entry, but I come upon un- portant business, which will not detain you long, and to which you will merely have to reply yes or no !" " I am listening, sir." " I am instructed, sir, to ask you if you are wilbng to go to I so little expected this formidable question, that I could not restrain a laugh. , , ^ '< Sir," raid I to my visitor, « I assure you, I would not go even as far L St. Cloud to-day, not for a great deal of money." "I did not ask you to go to St. Cloud, nor to-day, sir. T^e question merely is, whether you will go to the Philadelphia Exhi- bition next spring 1" « To Philadelphia, and what to do there I pray 1 « Sir, the Americans are very fond of great artist. , they receive them magnificently, and they pay them in the same manner. " By Jove, sir, I declare your proposition is serious and honour- able, and that at any rate it deserves wnsideration." "Well sir, I never hoped that you would decide on the spot, pray take your own time. I am merely charged with a very simple mission, to know if you are wUling to go to Philadelphia. If you give me a favourable reply, those who are more interented in the matter than I, will discuss terms with you; if not, I can but express my regret at having troubled you, and my thanks for the honour you have done me in listening to me." „ ^ , I waa silent for a moment. A thousand thoughts flew through my brain. Those who are family men and who have a conscious- ness of duty, will understand without any explanation from me what I felt. Others would not understand even if I spent a hte- time in explaining the situation. Ii and & sh( the c sipat great Tl had reply M. the t( right propc Th Myf uselei the 8^ So adapt than IP dare 1 jure 1 salute IPMBiBi 3ANB. foun'i myself face to a veiy courteovis and t once the truth, and ', but I come upon im- ou long, and to which u are willing to go to jBtion, that I could not u, I would not go even eal of money." 1, nor to-day, sir. The the Philadelphia Exhi- Iprayl" eat artisfc. , they receive bhe same manner." n is serious and honour- deration." lid decide on the spot, y charged with a very g to go to Philadelphia vho are more interected th you; if not, I can but I, and my thanks for the ne. d thoughts flew through id who have a conscious- ly explanation from me id even if I spent a life BEFORE STARTING. 13 At last I replied. "Very well, sir, I would not go willingly to America, because, sotting aside my fifty years, many things keep me at home. But on the other hand, if the case were urgent, and I could see my way clearly, I would go at any rate without repugnance." My visitor bowed and intimated that was all he wished to know. At dfijeflner I mentioned the visit I had received, but although I spoke of the aflFair in the gayest tone in the world, it failed. " It is madness," was the general cry, I attempted to prove that the aflair never had any serious aspect, and I even offered to bet I should hear no more about it. But a shadow had passed over the calm spirit of our holiday life, and the cloud could not be dispelled. Tlie smaUest thing will dis- sipate a beautiful day-dream, and I began to think it was the greatest folly in the world to leave one's front door open. The following day T received a visit from M. Bacquero, who had hastened to write ,o me as soon aa he had knowledge of my reply. M, Bacquero was a man of business in the best acceptation of the term. He made me offers about which I did not think it even right to hesitate, and I signed there and then the contract he proposed. That day I had no need to tell the tale of what had passeJ. My family had guessed it, and on seeing my people make so many useless efforts to restrain their teai-s, I appreciated more than ever the sweet and holy affection w.ch which I was surrounded. So much sadness and so many sweet reproaches were not best adapted to inspire in me that courage of which I had more need than they thought. I passed long nights without rest. In the morning I did not dare to sleep, for fear of not being able on opening my eyes, to con- jure up a sigh to re-asfure the dear beings who came so sadly to salute my awakening. J4 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Then I imagined a thousand consolatory theories. We had the wilTbefore us, a long winter, and who knew what xmght happen ^fore the end ol nine monthsl The Exhibition might be abandoned ^tdefin^tely postiK,ned; that might cextainly occur any day. Ammtahad had along war; the war might re-commence; that was t" nearly certain. 1 was in the i^sition of the poor devd m 3able. Ve King gavehim the choice between teac^« h-^ to r.^ and being hanged. The brave man had accepted t^^^t condition, demanding however ton years to accomphsh t^ ™^ ; saying, "It would be an exceedingly curious thing if within ten veai-8 the King, the ass, or I do not die." "Titthephitopher had ten yeai. before M- - which to a. complish his miracle, whUe I had only six months, and the time seemed to pass with unusual rapidity. One single hope sustained us, a hope which was at once vei> hurnal and very prosaic. According to the conti-act a lai-ge sum tltTbe deposited in the baukinghouse of myfriendBischoM^^^^^^ a^d I had tried to persuade myself, and to .convince my famUy, that this formality would not be fultilled. One day I met one of those men who know everything, and everybody's business, and on seeing me he voUmteered- "^ have news from over the water and your money wUl not "Tse'emed to me that this amiable man relieved me of a fright- ful n Jhtmare. Instead of going on to my club, I told f^e coacb Z!Z drive home, a^d the fine fellow dashed along the road as though he knew I was anxious to impart good news. St the period of suspense did not last long. On the day fixe the Bioney was deposited, and the evanescent g-^ty I had assumed was succeeded by the dolorous sadness which preceded separation. CANS. THE VOYAGE. Iff theories. We had the BW what might happen Lon might be abandoned •tainljr occur any day. re-commence; that was in of the poor devil in •etween teaching his ass 1 had accepted the fii-st I accomplish the miracle. lus thing if witliin ten ore him in which to ac c months, and the time I vhich was at once very lie contract a lai-ge sum ] my friend Bischofsheini, to .convince my family, | know everything, and 5 volimteered — nd your money will not 1 relieved me of a fright- ny club, I told the coach dashed along the road as good news. b long. On the day fixed cent gaiety I had assumed hich preceded separation CHAPTER 11. THE VOYAGE. The moment had anived. I left Pai-is on the 21st Ai>ril. :My two .sons-in-law, Cliarles C'omte and Acliille Touiuiil, my two brothers-in-law, Robert and Gaston Mitchel, and some friends, among.'st wlioni were Albeit Wolff and Mendel, and my son, accompanied me as far as Havre. I was extremely grieved in having to embark on the monow. I had tliought to render tlie se|iaration less hard by forbidding my w^fe and d^ighters to leave Paris, bnt now how I regretted it ! The boat started at la«t, and a.s it gi-azed the i)ier, it seemed that I stood near my son for the last time, jind I could not restrain visible signs of my poignant grief. As soon as the vessel put off, my eyes remained directed towards that little gi'oup on the quay, in the midst of which was my dear child. I could descry him a very long time. Tlie sun shone on the buttons of his collegian's coat, and clearly allowed my eyes to rest on the place which my heart had divined. Behold me in the Canada, a fine ship, which liad been newly built ! We had left the q\iay at 8 o'clock in the morning and were already far from the coast. Tlie vessel went well. Like myself, she made her firat voyage to America. Accu.stomed to first repre- sentations I was not afraid of as.sisting . her d6but. Allow me now to present you to some of my companions. To the highest the highest honour. The commander was M. Frangeul, a true sailor, an excellent man, and a charming conversationalist, who undertook the task, by his wit and drollery, of relieving the monotony and the length of the voyage. M. Betsell^re, the steward, had already had the honour of being shipwrecked. He was on the Gironde when that vessel ran into Hi! til il 16 AMEBICA AND THE AMEBICAN8. ■ Jho Louinane and sank. He was saved miraculously, and M. Betselltire was now afraid of nothing. A very young doctor, M. Flamant, also made his first journey lUiroHS the Atlantic. Poor doctor! medicine does not prevail against le mal de vit,: From the second day he api^ared no more at table, and I took a malicious pleasure in asking how he felt each morning. • . • <. Amongst the passengers we had Madlle. Aim6e, who had just concluded a triumphant season in Russia; BoAlard, who accom- panied me in the capacity of assistant conductor, and who took with him his young wife ; M. Bacquero, a charmmg American, who ha^-ing decided to present me to his compatriots was, as we have seen, assisted by the force of the almighty dollar in his efforts to induce me to undertake this little artistic tour ; and Arigotti, a robust tenor and pupil of the Consei-vatoire of Paris, and who Having lost his voice had happily found a situation as secretaiy to M. Bacquero. He was a capital player on the piaixo, and he read music with the greatest skill. Two pretty young ladies of Phila- delphia, some business men going t . the Exhibition, some exhibi- tors who hoped to effect sales, ai'.d finally some travellers of no special importance, made up our party. I cannot better tell the tsle of the journey than by reproducing a few lines which I wrote to my vdfe on disembarking. "The first two days passed very well. Thew atherwas superb, and I slept capitally on the Saturday during the stoppage at Ply- mouth. I became very .veil accustomed to my berth, so well indeed, that when the boat suddenly stopped, I awoke with a starii. Not having any very great experience of the sea, I believed this sudden stoppage to be the result of an accident. Jumpmg out of my berth, I was dressed and out on the bridge in two minutes. It was a false alarm. The ship had already re-started, but sleep had left me ; and my confidence had gone with it. I lay down again in my clothes expecting an accident at any moment. Every quarter of an hour the sldp stopped, its helm not yet acting quite property. the V to Cjt " ' '. tempe intere piece, "A board when recom the lit go do^ die as girl. "B( isles, ( ouston "Vi embar becoxU' "Fo thattl the cu wr !1 / a. •aculonsly, and M. e his first journey 3 dofls not prevail e api)eared no more isking how he felt m6e, who had just (oAlard, who accom- ctor, and who took aing American, who ots was, as we have (liar in his efforts to )ur ; and Arigotti, a of Paris, and who ition as secretaiy to 5 piaiio, and he read sung ladies of Phila- ibition, some exhibi- ome travellers of no than by reproducing nbarking. >w ather was superb, the stoppage at Ply- ) my berth, so well )ed, I awoke with a of the sea, I believed ident. Jumping out idge in two minutes, -started, but sleep had I lay down again in mt. Every quarter of ting quite properly. THE VOYAGE. 17 " As if this were not enough, a storm arose to complicate the situation. During three days and four nights we were horribly knocked about. The rolling and the pitching were terrible. In the cabin everything which was not fixed, was broken ; and no one could hold himself either upright or sitting. " On the Monday, I would not remain any longer in my cabin, and they made me up a bed in the saloon. The captain and all the crew were most kind to me, and kept me company during part of the night, seeking by every means in their power to reassui-e me. " ' ..t is superb," the captain said to me, ' the boat breaks into the V ives and scattters them on all sides every minute, you ought to rjme on deck to see it.' " ' My dear captain,' I replied, ' as a spectator, and seeing a tempest afar off, I admit that the spectacle would be exceedingly interesting. But I avow that as an actor, playing a part in the piece, I find that the fun is of the slightest possible description.' " A characteristic trait of a young American girl who was on board with her sister. At the height of the storm, at a moment when more than one person below was muttering a prayer and recommending his soul to God, (I was not doing so I assure you) the little Americaine said to her sister, ' My dear, will you try to go down stairs and find me my pretty little hat, I should not like to die as I am.' 'We must also find your gloves,' replied the younger girl. " Before entering the port, the Canada spoke with two little isles, called the Quarantine Islands, where the sanatory police and custom house ofScers make their search. " When a ship has invalids on board, it is compelled to dis- embark them on the first of thes« islands. When the invalids become convalescent, they are passed on to the second. "Formerly these islands did not exist, and it was at Long Island that the steamers awaited the customs officials and the doctors. To the custom-house people the inhabitants of Long Island were quite 18 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. indifferent, but the doctors and the invalids annoyed them. This incessant importation of pestilential subjects from the four quarters of the globe, was found disagreeable, and the inhabitants at last declared they would not allow the place to be used as a hospital any longer. Tliey had had enough of it, and it was now the turn of Staten Island, which lay opy lite. "But the inhabitants of Staten Island objected as strongly as did theii- brethren of Long Island. Indeed they were not content with threats. They revolted, and simply fired at all the ships wluch touched there, whether the vessels contained invalids or not. The authorities were peqjlexed. But they do not long remain em- barrassed in America. The council met, and decided that as the two Islands would not receive the sick on any pretext, two other Islands should be constructed, to remain uninhabited, save by in- valids and their attendants. At the end of a very short time these two new islands rose from the sea, as if by enchantment. « In this tour de force you see America. "They exi)ected us on the evening of the day before we actually arrived, and a procession on the sea had been organised to meet us. Boats decked out with fla«8, and hung with Venetian lantems, carrying journalists, besides curious people, and a military band of 60 to 80 players, awaited us at Sandy Hook. But as we did not anive, the boat put further out to sea expecting to meet us. They were all happy on board, singing and laughing, the music plaved the pi-ettiest tunes, but as the measui-e advanced the mai de 'mer advancetl also. The musicians wore not the last to feel its effect, and they soon became like the players in the comic sym- phony of Haydn, where the musicians disappear one after the other, blowing out the lights as they go. Ours had no light* to blow out, but in place of murmuring sweet mei iy, one after the other murmured sweet nothings to the waves.* "We were soon accosted by anot her boat, on board of which ' "^The pun in the French original i* " mai. au lieu de rendre dee wns, lee ma apriB lee autre* rendaient . . . I'toe dans la mer." were will we frien "] vi8it< Fron thouj writt 60 n and ' and 1 on til ' Tha "( tlie I ai-tist sorts. « ( for a I hop Willi a toaj Artf Unit( "1 a out «C joiim .them )more "B B. THE VOYAQB. 19 aoyed tliem. Tliis m the four quarters inhabitants at last 3 used as a hospital t was now the turn 3cted as strongly as 3y were not content .t all the ships which valids or not. The it long remain em- decided that as the ' pretext, two other ihabited, save by in- rery short time these 3hantment. ly before we actually Drganised to meet us. I Venetian lanterns, and a military band )ok. But as we did sxpecting to meet us. laughing, the music xe advanced the mal lot the last to feel its jrs in the comic sym- ippear one after the urs had no li^ts to mei ly, one after the t, on board of which u da rendre des aona, le« were the principal reporters of the New York newspaperH. You will understand I was as courteous as posMible. Two hours after we had arrived at New York we were already very good friends. " In the evening, on ret\irning from tlie tlieatre — the first day I visited two theatres — I saw a crowd asseniblod before my hotel. From the electric liglit wliicli shone overywliere you would have thought it was broad day. Above the balcony of the hotel was written in large letters, ' Welcome Olfenbacli.' An orchestra of 60 musicians obliged me with a serenade. They jjlayed 'Or])hee' and ' La Grande Duchesse.' I cannot describe to you the apjilause and the cries of 'Long live Offenbach.' I was obliged to api^ar on the balcony, just like Gambetta, and I shouted the formidable ' Thank you, sir,' prescribed by the formula of politeness. " On Saturday I was invited to a dinner given in my honour by the Lotos Club — one of the best clubs here — by men of letters, artists, merchants, bankers, and a good many journalists of all sorts. I enclose you the ■inenu of the dinner. " ' I am aware,' I said in reply to the toast of my health, ' that for a long time the Americans have known me as a comjwser, and I hope that when I have the honour of knowing them better they will be able to resi^ct me as a man. ' I beg/ I said, ' to projwse a toast to the United States, but not to the United States tout see. Art and the peoples are brothei-s, and I propose a toast to the United States of Eurojie.' " This speech, which emotion alone can pardon, was applauded h outrance. " On Monday I was invited to the Press Club, of wluch only joximalists can be membera ; charming men, veiy witty, most of V them speaking French very well, and many of them having resided jmore or less in France. " Many speeches in my honour. I replied as well as I could," ilia mvm so AMERICA AND THE AMBBICANB. I'ig 9 CHAPTER III. Ditto JJorh. GILMORE'S OARDENS. Hebe I am at New York. The Fifth Avenue Hotel, where I have put up, well merits a fewwordBof description. You car. form no idea m Eurq^ of this sort of establishment. Eveiything is ready to the hand. In ea«h bedroom theve are, a toilette cabii^et, a bath, ^^^^^^^^ terious place, the use of which the initials on the door sufficiently indicate. « . Tlie ground floor of the hotel is an immense bazaar, a merchant town, where ti-ades of all sorts are i-epresented. The hotel hair dresser, the hotel hatter, the hotel tailor, the hotel chenust, the hotel bookseller, and the hotel shoeblax^k, are al found here^ One can enter an hotel as naked a« Adam before the incident of the apple, and as hairy as Absalom before the tree ami can go out 4^1 as fine a gentleman as the famous Count D'Orsay of fashionable memoiy. .^i,5„,» Everything can be had in this Fifth Avenue Hotel, everything except however, a polyglot. The polyglot was nowhere to 1^ found. Amongst the 200 waiters who serve m this g^g«f *'« ««*»^- • lishment you may seek in vain for one who can speak French^ STis not partiluarly pleasant for those who do not understand ^11^20 doUai, {U), you have a bedroom, with the aco^ries I have enumerated, and the right to eat aU m\, out the particular vegetable you want to eat, thoy bring you the fifteen vegetables prescribed on the carte all together. In this way you find yourself suddenly flanked by thirty dishes, soup, fisli, flesh, innumerable vegetables, and sweets ; without couni ing the rearguard of dessert, which in itself is always composed of a dozen varieties of fruit. Everything is drawn up in battle array before you, bidding defiance to the stomach. The first time you dine, it DO frightens you that your appetite disappears. I shall not^ however, speak just now of American hotels, reserving a detailed description till I can affoi*d myself greater space. As I have only just arrived I have not leisure to observe much. I eat quickly, for I have only one idea, one desire, to see the famous covered gardens, at which Bilboqvet tells me I am to display my talent. I hasten then to Oilmore's (hardens. Picture to yourself a vast covered garden. In a massive frame- work formed by tropical plants isa platform reservedfor an orchestra M AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. of 100 or 1 20 ,nu8ici.m«. Around «r« flowon.. gra«., turf >K)r.lorH, and flower LcIh. about ami around which th. pul.Hc walk fr«oly. In fixjnt of the ontranco gate i« a large waterfall inten.Uul to hi up the break in the prognunnu. During the entr'actoH »t "mtateH Niagara. Tlu, cornerH of tlu, garden .ire occupie.l by httle chR- letH, .-ach of which will hold neven or eight perHonn, and which very advantageounly replace the UHual theatrical pnvate boxes. A larpe gallery, with ordinary Htall« and Heats, rising m tierB, permits thono who really like to nee and hear, to gratify their '"^-So whole somewhat recalls to mind the old Jardin d'Hivor which once was so popular in the Champs Elys<5es. The place would hold about 8 or 9000 persons, and I must add it waa most brilliantly lighted, the coloured glasses forming little rainbows with a very picturesque eflPect Enchanted with my concert hall, I asked Mr Graun, the direc- tor, some detaUs of the orchestra I had to conduct. He replied, '. . , ^„„ "We have engaged the hundred and ten musicians you have asked for, and I can assure you they are the best in New York. I soon found he had not deceived me, and I had the rare good fortune to become veiy popular with my orchestra. The musicians of New York are of themselves a vast and THJwerful organisaiion. They have constituted themselves into a Ey for theii- mutual protection. Every individual who wishes Tbeoome a member of an orchestra, must first join the society. To this rule there are no exceptions. From the conductor, down to the gentleman who "presides at" the tnangle, all must be members of the society. , ,> i i u i,» j I had been warned of this state of things by Boulard, who had already directed one or two reheai^.ls, and who wa« obliged to ioin the association before he was allowed to conduct at all. On my entry into the concert room, the musicians gave me an ovation, and in a few words I returned them my thanks. We com had thet (( and G « tion A seri i< al)oi nier T way it a: T desi I mei amo stru wor brill I D so n dayi m 8. [TiisH, tiirf bordei-B, |nil)lic walk frooly. intoiidcHl to till tip Lr'iictoH it imitfttos ij)i(Hl by Httlo chft- (t^'Hons, and which ical privato lioxcis. tH, rmnn in tiorB, ivr, to gratify tluar jld Jardin d'Hivor [)erHonH, and I must red glasHBH forming r Graun, the diroc- duct. musicians yon have beat in New York.'' I hatl the rare good oBtra. jmselves a vast and Bd themselves into a adividual who wishes first join the society, the conductor, down triangle, all must be by Boulard, who had 1 who was obliged to I conduct at all. musicians gave me an lem my thanks. We THE H0U8EH, THE BTnERTS, AND THE CARB. 28 comnuMicod tlio rohcarsHl by the overture to " Vert- Vert." They had not played sixteen bars before I tapjted my I' sk and stopped them. " Pardon, gentlemen," I riaid, " we have only just oomnienoeectators, some trombone and some basGOon players, who blew one note after the other with a most extraor- dinary efltect. I confess it perplexed me. Who were these musicians t Could it be possible that these trombone amateurs had come of their owii free will, and without invitation, to rein- force the orchestra 1 My uncertainty was, however, not of long duration. A glance of the eye was sufficient to discover the cause of the anomaly. The space reserved for the band not being large enough, the brass and reeds had been relegated to the other side of the balustrade. inJ-^V T 80 AMEBIOA AND THE AMERICANS. At the Union Square Theatre, I saw " Ferreol " represented m English, by a very good trmpe d'ens^mble. I also assisted at a perfomance of " Conscience," a piece very cleverly written by two young American authors, Messrs. Lancaster and Magnus. It was at this theatre, they teU me, that " Rose Michel " was played with immense success. The evening that I went to Wallack's Theatre, the bills announced the 400th perfoi-mance of a piece called, " The Mighty Dollar." Tlie principal roles were played by two celebrated artists, Mr. and Mi-s. Florence. The one recalled to me our excellent Geoflrey, and the other our sprightly Alrhonsine. The two artists have played together more th.m 20 years, and they ai-e much liked in America. As to the other actors they struck me by the perfect ensemble of their play. I remarked especially a chaming ingdnue who could not have been more than 17 years of age; She was named Miss Baker, and she played the rflle of the jeune premiere with very remarkable ease. Nor have I for- gotten an excellent young person. Miss Cummings. Wallack's theatre is directed by Mr. Deutsch, one of the youngest and the most courteous of the imiyresani of New York. To give an idea of the enterprise of an American director, I may mention that Mr. Deutsch re-engaged Mr. and Mrs. Florence for 400 nights 1 He intends to take a tour with these artists, through the chief towns of the Union, from New York to San Francisco, always playing tho same piece, « The Mighty Dollar." It was impossible to see the Lyceum Theatre, which was closed for the summer season. It was in this theatre that Fechter had 80 much success in " La Dame aux Cam^lias," and in several other pieces. Dramas with choi-us and orchestra are also played at this theatre. It was at the Lyceum Theatre, that, for the first time, they concealed the orchestra from public view, according to the example set by Wagner at Bayreuth. But they soon discovered the inconvenience attaching to this innovation. It considerably injured the acoustic properties of the theatre, and the musicians, rm QANB. erreol " i-epresented in ;. I also assisted at a leverly written by two ter and Magnus. It je Michel " was played k's Theatre, the bills !e called, " The Mighty d by two celebrated le recalled to me our htly Alphonsine. The lan 20 years, and they ther actors they struck I remarked especially een more than 17 years she played the rflle of 3ase. Nor have I for- mmings. Deutsch, one of the %2yreaani of New York, merican director, I may . and Mrs. Florence for th these ai-tists, through York to Sail Francisco, ity Dollar." beatre, which was closed theatre that Fechter had m^lias," and in several rchestra are also played 'heatre, that, for the first ublic view, according to But they soon discovered ration. It considerably aatre, and the musicians, THE THEATrES OF NKW YORK. 81 placed in a sort of ;>it and nearly suttbcated by the heat, took ste^^': to improve the situation. The first evenuig the violin j)layoi'S loosened their cravats, and discarded their collars. On the morrow the altos rejected their coats and ])layed in their shirt sleeves. A week later all the executants were com])letely at their ease. One evening the public saw aiising from the footlights a thin wreath of smoke. There was a veritable panic. But it was only the musicians indulging in a cigar. The alann not only relieved the musicians, but put a stop to this ridiculous invention. The executants cheerfully resumed theii' coats and their proper places in the orchestra of the theatre. Another theatre I was unable to see was the Grand Opera House, which was also closed. The Orand Opera House was built by the famous Fisk, who was assassinated by his friend Stokes. This Fisk had a career original and extraordinaiy even for New York. Of very Tow origin, in his youth he began life as a pedlar in pomatum. In a brief time he became, not only director of the largest theatre of New York, but &\m vice-president ot a railway company, commodore of a line of steamera, and colonel of a regiment. He had both energy and audacity, besides a good deal of origin- ality. Everyone who wished to be employed on his railway was first obliged to enrol himself in the regiment which he commanded, and by these means he collected one of the finest regiments in New York. Sometimes he took into his head to assemble all his soldiers, and parade them before the eyes of some pretty woman. On that day the railway had a holiday, and the stations were closed ali along the line. The sumptuous colonel had magnificent equipages and homes. When he went out, he was driven in a large and handsome 0])en carriage, drawn by eight steeds. A history of love explains his tragic end. The great iinpi-es- sario was the victim of a drama, and a double vengeance decided his fate. Here are the facts. ^JvJ 82 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. FibIc became enamoured of a beautiful American giri, to whom he made court. Magnificent performances were given in her Ijonour, besides reviews of the famous regiment, and successive holidays on the railway. He lavished everything to attain success, and very naturally he succeeded. Naturally also Fisk's firat step was to present his darling to bis friend Stokes. Since le rot Can- daule, lovers have alway:. beer, the same. Stokes had a very large fortune, he found the girl to liis taste, and Fisk became ... the happiest of the three, until the day when, by chance, he discovered the treason of his friend. I do not know whether or not his tirst movement was to place liis hand on his revolver, but at any rate the idea was abandoned as insufficient. He meditated a more ten-ible revenge. Without showing in any way to his friend Stokes the hatred he now bore him, he tti)peared to attach himself still closer to him. He caused him to enter into a certain scheme which he initiated : and he induced him to risk his whole fortune in the aflTair. Then suddenly throwing all hia own shares on to the market, lu; induced formidable fall ; by which his good friend Stokes was completely ruined. I think that Fisk, satisfied with his success, had an interview with Stokes, in the course of which he explained why and how he had ruined liim. At any rate, it 'is certain that Stokes, who pro- bably did not appreciate the joke, in his turn swore revenge. As he had less esprit than his enemy, he had recourse to a proceeding which if vulgar- was at any rate sure. He waited one day till Fisk came out of the Central Hotel, where the pretty Americaine resided, and he coolly blew his brains out. If Fisk could have sm-vived he would certainly have used this plot for a five act drama for his theatre. The last theatre to wliich I went was the Fifth Avenue Theatre, a very fine building, where they were playing a great drama called " Pique," the situations in which had been bonowed from various quarters. The drama, I may add, was by Mr. Dion Boucicault. lNB. lerican girl, to whom were given in her ment, and successive ling to attain success, also Fisk's firat step 8. Since le roi Can- okes had a very large ink became . . . the chance, he discovered Dvement was to place I idea was abandoned e revenge. Stokes the hatred he If still closer to him. e which he initiated : B in the afiair. Then he market, he induced tokes was completely ess, had an interview lined why and how he that Stokes, who pro- II swore revenge. Ab course to a proceeding ! waited one day till the pretty Am^ricaine •tainly have used this Fifth Avenue Theatre, Lg a great drama called borx'owed from varioua Ir. Dion Boucicault. ART IN AMERICA. 88 There are also in New York two German Theatres, and like- wiao a French Theatre, which is o])en from time to time, when a director can he foimd for it. This occasion however, seldom happens. I ought not to conclude these notes on American theatres without speaking of a little concert hall, where I beard the ChiTsty Minstrels. They arc all negroes. The artists are negroes, the choras are negroes, the machinists are negroes, the director, office keei)er, controller, manager, neither man nor woman : all niggers. On arriving at the theatre, I perceived an orchestra — black of CQurse, — who played more or less hitarre tunes. Fancy then my surprise, when I noticed that I had attracted the attention of the musicians. All the black gentlemen pointed at me one after the other. • I never could have believed I was so well known to so many niggers. The performance was funny enough, and I remained. Judge then my astonishment when I returned to the place, after the entr'acte, to see the same comedy renewed on my account, that is to say, t! ^ musicians one after the other again pointing at me. This time though they were white, as white as the bakers in " La Boulangere." I was more and more delighted. But I learned afterwards, that the musicians were the same men as before, that from the director down to the last machinist they were false negroes, and that they washed their faces, and blackened them again, three or four times in an evening, accoi-ding tci the necessities of the piece. CHAPTER VL ART IN AMERICA. Thb foreigner who travels through the United States has a thousand occasions to admire the intelligence and the enterprise which have i I M AMSRIOA AND THE AMEHICANS. pi^uced 80 many roarvelH. It would bo HuperfliiouH to eulogiae that industry whic)> is ho poworfiilly organiHetl and ho woll dovolo|)ed by machinery, the perfection of which ahnoHt HurjMuweH tlie imagina- tion. It would Im) fniitlesB to recall the prodigieH acconipHshod in this land, which, only junt a hundred yonrH old, has a network of railways antl telegraphn which develoinm itself every day : a land which is foJ-emoHt in the race of that progress which makes material life so easy. But further reflection dejirives the travellei- of a jwrtion of hin admiration. The actual situation of America denotes a lack of equilibrium in the employment of human forces. Tlio great energy which has made the United States so jtowei-ful a nation has been directed entirely to one object. America has triumphed in matter, bxit it h»vH neglected to occupy itself in all that which charms uid elevates the mind. America is to-day like a giant of a hundred cubits, who has attained physical perfection, but who entirely lacks soul. Tlie soul of a people is art, the expression of the thought by which it is raised to its mental height. In reading the chapter devotetl to the theatres, you wUl have seen how the dramatic art has been neglected in the (Jnited States, and in what a deplorable condition it is now found. To have good artists, troupes d'ensemUe, and actors ; it is necessary to have stable institutions, sound and long training, and real tradi- tions. New York has no permanent opera, no permanent comic opera, nor even a theatre for the performance of operettas, and which can be sure of a life ol two years. There is an entire lack of a stage for classic or modem authors and which can offer suiBcient guarantees of stability to become a school. The theatre in America lives but from day to day. The directors and troupes are mere knights errant. " Most of the artists are birds of passage, engaged from the old world, and who come for a brief season and then depart. What I say about the art dramatic also applies to the other ANB. iliious to eulogifie that I HO well dovelo|)ed by iir|)iuweH tlu! iniugina- ligieH iicconi]iH8ho(l in j1(I, ha8 II network of If overy day : a land wliich uiakoH material ir of a jwrtion of hia ica deiiotcH a lack of les. Tlio groat energy 'ill a nation has been I triiunphod in matter, II tliat whioh charms idred cubits, who has y lacks soul. on of the thought by leatres, you will have ected in the (Jnited it is now found. To ;ors ; it is necessary to aining, and real tradi- I, no permanent comic ince of operettas, and re is an entire lack of a ;h can offer suiBoient sol. The theatre in directors and troupes 8 are birds of passage, for a brief season and applies to the other ART IN AMBRIOA. N arts. MuHic, painting, and Ntulpturt- oxint in America on no conditioiiH under wliicli tlioy can develop tiieinw^lveH. We are told then- are paintern and Mculptoni. I (h) not deny it. Of what account is tlie land where a flower is never found 1 1 have seen Htmie flowers, but have not Mwn a garden. Tu other wordH, 1 have found a t\'W j>ainterH, but no sehool of j)ainting in Auiorica. It is esHcutial to the ^lory of tlie United Htatos that this state of things hIiouUI be remedied. A jjcople so great should possess eveiy greatucHs, aiul to industrial force should be added that glory which the arts niv alone capable of aflbrding to a nation. What are the wider measures to be taken with a view to de- velop the Hue arts in America 1 If I had to reply to this cpiestion, I should say to the Americans — "You have ui your own land all the necessary elements. Intel- ligent and gifted men, and beings of artistic tem[)erament, you do not lack. The proof is, that some Americans have, without cul- ture and under the most unfavourable conditions, produced works which are a credit to them. You have money ; you have distin- guished amateurs and collectors, whose gallenes are justly cele- brated. Utilise these elonuiuts and you will succeed. " The State — according to the principle advanced by you — ought not to intervene in this reform by subventions. It is therefore neces- sary you should organise yourselves. In Europe the State merely subventiouises a few of the greatest institutions of the capitals. The municipalities actually subventionise theatrical and musical entei-prises and museums iii the smaller towns. The municipal councils do a great deal for art in France. They occupy them- selves not only with theatres and museums, but they often gra- tuitously educate at Conservatories and Academies young people who show ailiistic instincts. Imitate this example, and if your municipal councils will not assist you, create for yourselves great societies for the pi-otection of the ai-ts. Have corresponding societies in all the large centres. Reunite the capitals. That woul^' ^^f^ easy, '.I _J./'' 86 AMERICA AMD TRB AMKRIOANS. and thiiH privati. initiative would iwrform with you the pro- tecting rAlo played iiy the (JovornnientH in F;uroi)C. " To miHo the tono of druniatic art, and to liavo stahU' dinictors aoBurcd against liunkniptcy, you numt have two HcencH for muHical and one for draniatio woritH. KHpticially, you muHt luivo a conser- vatory, wlicro you will form oxcollcnt pupils if you comiwHo the tutorial Htaffof tin' right inatorialH; that is to say, l»y attracting from Euro|)e,and retaining here, artists of merit in the old world. The day when you have permanent tlmatres and a conservatory organised on the lines T have sketched out, yo\i will have done much for dramatic art, for comitosers, and for Americiui authore. But you must not be in haste to gather the fruits of your labours. It may Im) ten, it may bo twenty yeais before you can hope to produce the excel- lent results you will Imve a right to expect. But what arc twenty years 1 twenty years to convert your pupils into masters ; twenty years when you will no longer be me-e tributaries of Eurojiean art ; ten years before the theatres of the old world will come to you to demand your artists, oven as to-day you demand theirs. " What I have said on the subject of theatres applies equally to other branches of art. Form public museums, for it is by visiting mi.seums that men, naturally endowed by art, often discover in themselves the creative faculties which God has given them, or even those faculties of assimilation which often so nearly border on genius. It is by the contemi)lation of che/a d'cbuvre that taste is fonned and purified. " Form academies of painting and sculpture, and choose your professors fi-om among the best men in our own academies. Modem masters will not consent to emigi-ate, but it is necessary to have neither the greatest painters nor the greatest sculptora. There are many others who possess the peculiar qualifications necessary for the work, and it is to them you must address yourselves. Do not spare money. It is on this sole condition that you will form an American school which will figure in the annals of art by tho side of the schools of Italy, Holland. Spain, and France." I d I n n n in ii tl I a) ci P h I with you tin- pro- uroj)c. have. Htul)l»i directors wo HccncH for tnuHical u inuHt huvo a conHer- H if you coini)08« the Mtiy, hy attrttctiiig from he okl worltl. The day lerviitory orgiiuisod on one inucli for dramatic 8. But you muHt not irH. It may J>o ten, it to j)roducti the excel- But wliat are twenty into moHtern ; twenty ibutaries of European Id world will come to you demand theirs, trea applies equally to aw, for it is by visiting tti-t, often discover in d has given them, or iften so nearly border 'le/s d'ceuvre that taste iure, and choose your our own academies. B, but it is necessary to atest sculptora. There qualifications necessary Idress yourselves. Do on that you will form 5 annals of art by the , and France." THE REBTAURAMT8. 8T In the brief ajMice of a humlred years Anicrica .ati arrived *t the aftogoe of her industrial grandeur. The £iny music whistled, I e next allowed me to stling waiter, ras an equally curious pleasure to make the this city at aboixt half- i and I were literally ved we threw ourselves THE RESTAUBANTS. 41 " Drive away then, to P4try." No sooner said than done, and down we sat at the table. We lost not an instant in choosing our dinner. "Waiter." " Yes, sir," " Give us at once some good Julienne." The waiter made a grimace. " I do not advise you to try it, sii-. The vegetables are rather stale here." " Very well, we will pass over the soup, you have some salmon." " Oh, salmon. Certainly we have salmon. We have had it a very long time. It is not by any means the first day of that salmon, nor will it be the laat." " Well, bring us a rumpsteak well beaten." "The cook does not do it very well." " Some strawberries." "They are spoilt." "Some cheese." "I will go and ask it to walk up. I know it. It will not need any assistance." " Waiter, you ought not to decry your master's goods." " I do not like to deceive my customers." " If I were M. P6try, I would kick you out of doors." " M. P^try would not listen to your advice. This is my last night here. I am dismissed." At these words he bowed very low, and .... we supped admi- rably. The thii-d variety of the genua waiter, and a very exceptional type, is to be found in the waiter, or rather the waiters, who serve at Delmonico's. An entrepreneur gave us one evening a supper, to which he had invited the principal artists of his thoatre. The repast was charming. But like all good things it had an end. The hour for cigars and conversation had arrived, and we remained in our room smoking / ,j;.v 42 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. and drinking iced drinks. We did not require the waiters any longer, but I remarked with surprise that one of them still re- mained in the room very close to us, and evidently listened to what we were talking about. Not myself being Amphytrion, I did not y)retend to notice it. As to the other guests, they did not appear to observe this strange behaviour. At the end of the su-per, and before we separated, I in my tuni invited the manager ana artists who formed the company to come to sup with me at the Hiune restaurant on another evening. On this occasion, the .same conduct was repeated. The waiter came to us after the supper. I observed him with more attention, and I noticed that he cast his eye around the table, fixedly regarding each pei-son present. When this was over he went out, but only to return a few moments afterwards to resume his ex- amination, and promenade. He was about to retire again, when I stopped him. " Waiter, several times you have entered without being called. We do not require you again." " Pardon, sir," he replied, " bxit it is by express order of Mr. Delmonico, that we enter each saloon and private room eveiy five minutes." « Is Mr. Delmonico connected then with the police, that he wishes to hear what his customers are talking about T' « I have no idea, sir. All I know is that Mr. Delmonico has placed me at the door, and that I have only obeyed the letter of my instructions." " Does Mr. Delmonico fancy we want to appropriate his forks and spoons, or that we are capable of forgetting our good manners in his famous restaurant. I will tell you one thing, my good man. It is now half-past one o'clock in the mommg. We intend to remain here until seven o'clock. If you wish to obey the orders of your master, you will have to pay us sixty-six visits." " Very well, sir, i will do so." I need not add that having thus given vent to our indignation, we tl 1»> ni ai th on a i ha ha l.e dii LM8. ire the waiters any me of them still re- vidently listened to being Amphytrion, ;her guests, they did )arated, I in my tuna bhe company to come )ther evening, jpeated. The waiter with more attention, id the table, fixedly fUB over he went out, ds to resume his ex- to retii'e again, when without being called. sxpress order of Mr. private room eveiy I the police, that he T about r' t Mr. Delmonico has 7 obeyed the letter of appropriate his forks forgetting our good ill you one thing, my n the morning. We If you wish to obey lay us sixty-six visits." to our indignation, we TIIR LADIES. THE rNTRODLCTIOX. THE VATIK. 48 >^lid not execute our project. Wr dopartetl a little Ijefore two o'clock, 8wo!u-ing in no niensuretl tonus tJiat wo would not stip .'ignin at Delmonico's. <'HAPTER VIII. THE LADIES. TUB INTRQBUCTION. THE PARK. Women, and even young girls, enjoy in Ajuorioa the gvuatosi liberty. I liave a notion tliat wlieu Lsifayctte fouglit for Aiuorican liberty he had in view the ladies of the United Htatos, a.« tliey alone ai-e truly free in free America. My collaboratoi-s, Meilliac and Ifalcvy, say in " La Vio Parisienne " that only PiU-isiennes know how to go out on foot. But tlieyhad not seen the la^lies of America going, coming, trotting, getting out of the way ot the vehicles, lifting tlieir dressers with the gesture of nature's coquette, and .liscoveriug their exquisito ankles with an art all tlieir own. I most willingly confess there are no women more ekliiisanteockct placed a little above the knee, and at the right of which tlie diutelaine hangs. This iwcket is used for only one thing, to cmry the handkei-chief, mid from a little distance the white mouc/wh- l.eepiug from the pocket, opjiears to the foreigner as thougli the •h-ess were toni. V 44 AMERICA AXK THE XMEItlC.VXK. All the Aiiu-ricnn ladies whom I met carry thtir imrscs in their liandH, so that the pickpockets- f)f whom there art as many in New York as there are in Paris— may have no temptation to feel in their jiockets. It is no unusual thing to see a young girl, at midday, enter on(^ of the elegant restaurants, and take her lunch with the tranquility of jm old European bachelor. Othei-s wait at the corner of Fifth Avenue, or elseAvhei-e, for the carriages in wliich they intend to take a drive in Central Park. It will api^ar a strange thing to the depraved Parisian who loves to follow women, to kjiow that no une in New lork, nor in any other town of the United States, would dream of looking back at a young American giil, still less of aiUlressing a woi-d to her, or of offering her the shelter of an umbrellit. In onler to offer nn umbrella, witli or without its owner's heart, a pi-evious presentation or " introduction," as it is calle>rincipal types. Tlie one. extremely heavy, is a species of middle-sized landau, a massive coach, or a monster beriin, which will comfortably accommodate a gi-eat many people. il hiir jmrscs in their re art as many in temptation to fed t midday, enter one- kvitli the tranquility tlie corner of Fifth hich they intend to 1 Parisian who loves w lork, nor in any 11 of looking back at g ft word to her, or ut its owner's heart, s it is callero- duce uli over the States. For myself, I must confess that these excesses lead me all the more to appreciate our detestabh* Euroimun tiovernnicnts. Our -own nilevH prohibit those '-liberties" which endanger life, and they ^•ause us to be protected by our gendarmes. 1 have seen the effects of this unlimited libci'ty. 1 prefer our jwlice. CHAPTER X. CORPORATIOXS AND SOCIETIES. One of the most favourite crochets of the Americans, is to con- federate and found societies opyopos of everything, and fipivjws of I>0 AMKIIICA AND THt: AMbKU .VNS. nolliui),M»rut untU-r no iiiiittfr what name. Any pretext w goou' eiiotigli for tho puqtosf. Tliiin forpoiatimiH abounil in tho Uuited Htatt'H. To ouuinmiitr tlii-in nil, *oul-.i„Nt tho moNt ini|>ui-tunt nui Imi instuncftl, tlic 'roiiipemnct' He .eticx, tho Fn-cniiiHoiiH, the H<»cifty of OKI (<|U«)ry Udil) FoIIowh, that of tho (licat lU'puMif, tluit of Fa( M(eared to lie chiefly wiri;ful to hold it in a Iiorizontiil ixwition. The e.\planation was easy. In black l«ttei-s, on a white ground, there was on that big drum the advertisement of the patent pills of an enturprising chemiat. C'HAPTKU XI. PUFFEin'. - "" The advertLscment on the big dnim i-npels me to say uwoixlaljom pufl'er)-, as it exists and is practised in the I'nited States. Everybody knows thai the Americans are adepts in the art of advertisement, but it is necessary to visit the country, and to pa.ss through the great cities, the small lx)roughs, and e\en the most uncivilisetl places, to know the extent to which the Americans carry their [Mission. I met one day in Nfw York t^\o young men \s)i() walked up and down the street with jjlacaids on their backs. Orcat Sale of Sevnny Machines. No. Broadway. Was this a joke i Nothing of the sort. These gentlemen walked seriously enough. Kvc-rylwdy who saw them laughed and looked to the interior, lere, ami of the mean- was certainly an aclver- what it signified. But yself any moi"e about it. mechanically read on a. II." Neither more nor jme rheumatic patients, icemeut, Vmt at any rate, posts. A mile fui-ther n, bat always innocent n miles. At the end of he name and address of ip the train to buy some Ivertisement plays upon lion a piano. i on the gas lamps by iiagic lanteni has even ips, )>earing inscriptions ving carried fifty j)eopIe forward and tics to its east. ,t the Falls of Niagara.* ction with this advertiBement told tho name was that of a left the train, Offenbach in- wLich waa so aeconiinodating man laughingly protcBted his )ach insisted tho driver was a ed to cheat him. THE IlACEb'. d3 This sort of puffery is carried even to improbal)ility. Here is what I read in the American pajwi-s aproiws of a concert on tho Sth July, at Gilmore's Gardens. GREAT SACRED CONCERT IN HONOUR OF THE EMPEROR OF BRAZIL. And kiat appearance in public of hut Majesty Don Pedro precious his dejmrture for Europe. The w jrds, Emperor of Brazil, were pruited in largt; t\ {w, as if His Majesty were; a great vocalist or a " lion comique." Tho manager would jnobably like to tell .ae public — " The Emperor of Brazil, seized with a sudden mdisiHJsition, re- quests your indulgence and asks for your patience." Or— " The Emperor of Brazil liaving been attacketl witli a soi-e throat, requests the audience to excuse his appearance to-niglit." The public it is presumed would, iu that case, have a right to si. retura of the money they paid at the door. CHAPTER Xn. THE RACES. I WENT to the races at Jerome Park. Tlie course on which the steeple chases are i-un is a continuation of Central Park, wliicli I havfl described in a previous chai)ter. It belongs to a rich l)auker : — Mr. de Belmont. It cannot be expected that I can speak of tlie races in the tech- nicalities used by a sporting journalist. I am not acquainted with the special language of the turf, and indeed, I hardly knt)W the cori-ect interpretation of the term " starter." All I can say is, that I saw Jerome Park, with its exceedingly / 54 AMEBICA AND THE AMEBICAN8. mitddy course, and that I was present iit the races. There wem many hoi-ses, many jockeys, many ladies, and many gentlemen. If the horses seemed to me to be a little too fat, the jockeys seemed to be a trifle too lean. I afRim nothing. All I can say is that a horse and a jockey always came in tii-st, and that the gentlemen ■who had won were joj'ful, while those who had lost were des- iwndent. It appeared to me also that the jjcople lacked enthusiasm. Tlie finish of a race, the appi-oach of a block of seven or eight homes, always excite in France and England cries, acclamations, and hurrahs. During some seconds evciybody appears to be seized A\-ith a vertigo of speed, caused by the attraction of the affair or by the excitement of betting. Our most experienced sjwi-ts- men cannot see the decisive moment anive without manifesting some concern, and without showing the interest they have in the struggle for the first place. In America we see nothing of this. Tlie start and the finish oiuNC a little warmth, but this is soon suppressed and is succeeded by an icy silence. The noise, the bravos, and the cheers which invest Longchamps and Ohantilly vnth gaiety and life are wholly wanting at Jerouio Park. As I had not the smallest interest in the race itself, I had time to look about me and to obsene, and I assisted at a little scene which was at once curious and characteristic. Between two i-aces a gentleman walked quietly up and down the coui-se. Suddenly I saw at his waistcoat a slight wreath of blue smoke, and his coat was soon in flames. Tliis gentleman hud a cigar light in his pocket. " You ai-e on fire," was cried on all sides. The flames now reached his waist, but with the sangfroid of a time Yankee the gentleman sought before eveiything to save his pocket book. Happily at the moment when the flames had reached his coat, several iwlicemen threw themselves ui)on him A n n g d n hi ti A vc m IICANS. the races. There wer(v , and many gentlemen, tie too fat, the jockeys ng. All I can say is that ami that the gentlemen who had lost were des- ple lacked enthusia.siii. •lock of seven or eight ind cries, acclamations, eiybody appears to l)e le attraction of the aflair nost experienced sjwi-ts- Lve without manifesting iterest they have in the "lie start and the fini.sh pressed and is succeeded hich invest Longchamps loUy wanting at Jerome he race itself, I had time assisted at a little scene tic. sd quietly up and down tcoat a slight wreath of cs. Tliis gentleman hud es. with the sangfroid of a ■e eveiything to oave his ; when the flames had w themselves ujwn him THK n.VCES. 56 and tore olf his i^uniiug clothes. The gentleman went away in his shirt sleeves, thanking the police and iho public for tho kind attention they Iiad shown him. I have already said with what tjist.'. the charming ladies of America dress, and I liave only to r.;peat my assertion. They brought out for the riices their freshest and most elegant toilets, and I need hardly say that the course adonied by tho presence of the beauties of America, was ravishing. In admitting with pleasure the good taste of the j.retty girls of America, I regret I cannot pass a similar compliment uiwn the men. Tlie latter aflcct on all occasions a costume which, if not the most simple, is at any rate the most neyligte. At the theatre, at concerts, everywhere is to be seen the same diess, those frightful " tourist suits," such as we ixffect in the country, or at tic sea side. The round hat is a tradition. It is also true that the most distin- guished men ai-e not ashametl to go out for the evening or to a dinner pai-ty, with the most elegant women on theii- arm, and always with the soft mid grotesquely eflective head covering. For example, many of them wear at all hours of the day and night a. white tie. From six o'clock in the morning tho Yankee hangs round his neck a [)ieoe of the tinest cambric, and he never relinquishes the ceremonious white cravat, wliich accompanied by the negligee costume creates ho strange a contrast. One thing very astonishing to foreigiiers is to see that all tho Americans have under tlie flap of the coat and near the middle a, very marked protuberance. It is here that an American gentle- man canies his revohor. y 4» £6 AMEKICA AND THE AMERICANS. CHAPTER Xlll. THE AMERICAN PliESS. 'I'm: iit)svwi>ai»ers wield in America a far greater influence than they i»ossess in Europe. But we must not conchule that the press is nioi-e free in the new world than in the old. In France it is the •vovemment whif'i manages and controls the journals. In America the religious sects and political coteries exercise their tyi-anny over editors. The latter, it must be said, submit themselves readily enough to this servitude, and have even learned how to make conditions. Knowing the members of the staff of the chief French papere, I paid a visit to the offices of the piincipal newspaper? of Now York. They all have immense offices of grand constniction, and in these palaces of the American press, there is a continual coming and going, like the agitjvtion of a laborious beehive. At Kew York, as at Paris, the papers have chosen for their offices, houses in the most lively part of the city. To be y.A\ and quickly informed they must necessarily be in close proximity with the centre of business, and to the populous quarter. It is therefore in Broadway that the great American press has chosen its home. Tlie offices are easy enough to find. If it be during the day that you seek a newspajjer office, lift your head, see which is the tallest house, and enter rashly. It is there. To cite an example, the New York Tribune has a house of nine storeys. If it l)c night, open your eyes. The edifice which is the most brilliantly lit up, and which illuminates all the suiTounding neighbouriiood, is precisely the one you seek. In the well-lighted rooms, the ioumalists are at work. We sometimes in B'rance figur- atively call a journal a " lighthouse." In America lighthouse is the proper tcrai for it. When you penetrate into the interior of the newspaper office you CANS. JiSS. greater influence than oncliule that the press is d. In France it is the (Is the joumalB. In coteries exercise their said, submit themselves ) even learned how to B chief French papere, I tal newspaperp of Now grand constniction, and ro is a continual coming beehive. have cliosen for their e city. Tobev.dll and in close proximity with ^[uai'ter. It is therefore s has chosen its home, f it be during the day L- head, see which is the •e. To cite an example, 1 storeys. lifice which is the most 5s all the suiTounding 3k. In the well-lighted netimes in B'rance figur- 1 America lighthouse is the newspaper office you THE AMERICAN PRE.SS. gj ^^11 find little left to be de.si.vd. The telegraph, hy n.eans of one of those apparatuses of which I ha^ e already spoken, is of cou.^f earned into the house, animating everything by its perpetual tremolo. The couiposing rooms, the stereotyping and thej>rintinLr departments, are marvellously stocked witli tools. It will, how(.^er, be as well to give more details about the chief papers of New York. We will commence by the Xeir }'o-,/J- Herald. This paper was founded thirty yeai-s ago b^■ Mr. James fJordoi. Bennett. The circulatiuii is now about 70,000 a da^-. Each of its issues m compose.1 according to circumstances of 8, 1 C, or 24 par presses, b)' which two men can throw ofl' 15,000 to 17,000 copies an hour. The New York Tribune. Founded by Horace Greelej-, the philiuithropisfc and eminent journalist, and one of the most deter- mined enemies of slavery. A candidate for the Presidency in 1 87 2, Mr. Cli-eoley was unhappily defeated. He died of grief on account of this check. The Tribime is really a tribune open to the apostles of new theories. At the pi-esent time it is engaged in a very vigorous campaign in ftivour of the rights of woman. Always well editetl, this paper has lost a little of its influence since it became the propei-ty of Mr. Jay Gould, the old associate of Colonel Fisk. Its musical ciitic is Mr. Hassard, a violent Wagnerite. Its dramatic critic, Mr. Winter, is an excellent and most sympathetic jour- nalist. The World, the democjatic organ, has a circidatiou of 12,000 to 15,000, and its editor-in-chief is Mr. Hurlbut. Mr. Hurlbut has tra\elletl a great deal, and has seen and remembers much. A most accomplished man and a writer of merit, Mr. Hurlbut lia« only one faidt in the eye of his covfreres ; that is to say he is a NS. eio York Times. It litomiy excellence, tli(! jmblic. It was ■sley. nan, held the cditor- )f the London I'iuies, or is now Mi-. Jones, iiToly intiintains the is eelobnited amongst ami (ilegnnco of its iniiK)Ssible to choose than Mr. Foord, nor lit than Afr. Schwab. >r presses, by which 's an hour. Horace Greelej', the le of the most deter- 5 Presidency in 1872, ;d of grief on account the apostles of new I in a very vigorous Always well editetl, since it became the of Colonel Fisk. Its nerite. Its dramatic )St sympathetic joiir- cxilatiou of 12,000 to t. Mr. Hurlbut has 3members much. A it, Mr. Hurlbut lia« hat is to say he is a I TIIK AMKIIICW I'KKSS. 69 little dmngeabJe in his ,x>litie«l opinions. Is it nell to resist the .vsh..,,. of <,, Hmes/ The nn.sical critic of the Worl.f is M ^\ heeler, a feuilletoniate of spirit. Tl.e Sun, of the editor and pro,,rietor of which I forget the nmm He is ajonrnalist of the first onler, speaking all lantnaces ;u^..s excellent in condensing small new! and little set X: ^n^^ at a penny instead of twopence, and its ci.ula- ^^^^Continuing the account of the press. ... arrive at the evening J^^^oculno I'ost is edited by Mr. William Culien Brvanf, the great American poet. In opinions it is Republican, and it Z- culation IS consi.' -able. • thJlTh;^''"'""" ^'r'"'"^ ^"^"'''"^^ '' '''^tinguished fron. all the other papers, in tliat it is continually publishing new editions i:::^Tzr'''^'''''''^''' -- ''- p-s:dway.son:i : As «)on as fresh news arrives, another edition is brought out Aiu news IS constantly arriving every hour of the dav The New York Herald publishes this flying sheet ' Amongst the foreign papers published in New York. I must mention the 6'o....V .les Etat.-Unis. It has been in existence toity years It owes its first j.rosperity to M. Frederic Gaillardet who sold It to M. Charles Las,s„l,e. M. Lassalle is still i p^. ' pm^ .t. editor being M. Leon Meunier. Le Co.rrler de^U^s- LeMessacjer Franco- Amerlccdn is a daily paper, and it has been ni existence ten yeaiu Its principles are u/tra republic! tsp" ' pr^tor^is M. de Mavil, and its editor-in-chief; M. Lo;is c!:: o7^ n'^n.f f i""^ '' P'^"*"'' "' ^^'™'''"- It« director is Hen- y.U Ollendoif, an Austrian by birth and a political ..i who has lived twenty-five years in America. This pa,>er, which is very complete uud very well written, has a great iufluen; in poH D / f 60 AMERICA AND THE AMEBICANS. ties. It occiipio8, op|K)8ite the Thneit, a largo Iiouho wliich Hirr Ollendorf has built. The circulation is 23,000 to 30,000. Tlio Staata Zeitmij was fouiuletl some thirty yeni-s ago l)y Fniu Ulil, a woman of iiive energy. Its commencement wan mtlii-r mmlest. As in th^ case of the Herald, wlieu the pajier was first stai-tcd the proprietor often ser\'ed in the shop. Besides these papei-s should also be mentioned the Assoi-iatod Press, which is a society of vcjwrters, like the EuroiM m R«ut<»i- or the Hiivns agency. TIu! rejwrtera dcsoive special mention. Those gentlemen, who number alwut fm-ty for each paper, have to contribtite accounts of accidents, crimes, kc. They wait at tlie Centml Police office, and are in communication by telegi-aph with all the stations, so ^hat «vents may lie reported without delay. Two or three of them arc told ofl" to reimit the proceedings in the law courts. Fifteen or so aire kept day and night at the newspaper office, and are sent to different quarters of the city by the manager of the pajier. They know all familiar faces, and are expert in telegraphy. By the aid of tdegraphic apparatiis they can give an account of an event whicli happens a thousand miles away, and it anives with such celerity that the paper can have five or six columns in small typo next momin>,' on the speech, the crime, or the accident which is thus rejioi-ted. I CHAPTER XIV. SKETCHES OF CELEBRITIES. Up to the present I have confined myself to Ameiican matters and • manners. When I wished to speak of persons I was compelled to adopt an impersonal designation, and to talk of " an original " or " a pretty woman." But to afford my readers a more complete and NS. ) houHO wliich Hiir D to 30,000. ty yeni"s ngo l)y Fniu nceineut wiih rather I tlie pajier was fii-st D7ioc„ a„d ink Nkftcht'H of celebrities. I ho,H. that this cont«n,,H,mry gall.ny will procure for those xvho ead h.s.Kmku8«n,ch pleasure as 1 havo fo„„d in s.vi«. u„d known.g Hi„ original* = MR. BENNETT. -Mr. B..nuett is the son of the celebrated James (ionlon lJ,.nnott. who thnty years ago founded the Xeio Vot-k lIonM J^mZ ^^""'^""'''^^^^r" l'»°'>"«--«f'"-i^^ I»oi"ietor an income ot 180,000 a year, a result which it ne«d hardly be said speaks well tor tJio hig. ^bihty of James Gordon Beimett. Mr. Bennett the son, is tWrty years of age, and by the good- lortune wluch «ho„hl only exist in hereditary monarchies, he h„c- ceeded his father ni all his iiossessions. In physicpje he is a perfect gentlennu., fUl, dark, and pale, and perfectly well bred. Like all those who work and ,h,ss.L ..iueh ns glaiice ,s cold, but it is gentle enough if some imp,^ssio„ occu,-^ to enlighten it. Tlie proprietor of the Ihrald has certainly full knowled-^o of the position of a man who takes a high place in the worid. Ho com ma.Kls .•„ army of faithful corresiK^ndents. brave and devoted men always r.^dy at the smallest sign to sta.t for the other end of the world. He iKissesses all over the globe as many conx^six^ndents ns a great power h,is consuls, and the telegrams he 8enf tlu- Herakl arrive.l Mr. Bennett loves Kaifty, and the profusion at Ins fetes an.l recepi;.-... vecalls the hest days of the old lor.is of the last century. On one of his estates he has a model stud, and he often gives races, to which are invited the best gentlemen riders of tla- States, the master of the house finding the horses. Add to this a man of i«>i-fect good taste, and you will ha\. Bome idea of one of the most interesting individuals of the New World. Jia. MANAGER MAUlUCi: (iRAU Is a voi-y young man. He is at most twenty-eight ye,.rs ohl. although he looks forty. Incessant work, woiTies of all sorts, as toundiiig activity, and pre-occupation every moment of his life ha^ e nuwle him prematurely old. He has led a Me of feverish excite- ment, i-emarkable even in America. He has already won and lost live or six fortunes. A milliimaire one day, he is without money the next. In this there is nothing extraordinary. Maurice Oiiiu has often managed ti\o tJieatres at one time, an Italian oi)era in New York, a French theatre at Chicago, an operetta house at San^ Prancisco, an English dramatic theatre in the Havannah, and :. Spanish comic opera house in Mexico. It is he who brought to America Rubinstein, the famous ].ianist. 'ANS, [•lit tlic if|iutiition of l.iisiness, Mr. Bt'iiuetl lire. He loM'S Pnris tivf of thf BoulfVKid Bi-OHH the Alhmtif ti» lule a jiit'iit si'iiMitioii r ynclits, iiidttil, lofi of the Herahl iiriivtMl i.sioii at liis ft'tPH a lilt old lords of till' last id, and he often gives ntleuiea mk-rs of tlii- horses. iste, and you will Iuim uir iiKlividiinls of the IRAU twenty-ciglit yoi.rs oltl, woiTies of all sorts, as- moment of Lis life ha^ <■ life of feverish excite - luvs already won and lost ay, he is without money rdinary. Maurice Gran me, an Italian oi)era in m operetta house at Saii' in the Havannah, and it iteiii, the famous j>ianibt. I ^ SKKT( ilES OK IKLKBIIITIKS. 68 Wliut II tour ho liad ! Two Inindred .-onc-rts hi lesN than hix nionths. Sonn'tinics two a day. At this moment Maurice (Jrau is niaiiaging the troupe of Afadlle. Aim<5e. He is also in treaty with Rossi. Tlio gn-at Italian tragedian was expected to an-ivt! in the course of two Jiionths, imd to travel a year with tlu^ ahlo impifHario. (JONUUOTOR TUEOUORE T1I0.M.\S. Pronj that of a simple violin player, and not hy any means one ne thing is to lie jiarticularly noticed : his sincere affection for the music of the director of the Consei-vatoire of Paris — our excellent friend Ambwise Thomas. It is rare that a piece by the >iuthor of " Mignon " is not to 1^ found in his programmes. 64 AMERICA AND THE AMEUIC.VN8. Tl.m-foMiths of th( time tin- public U'Vwm' tlii.t it in tl.c- cfirf d'trrchtBtre Tboinus. wlio sIm.uI.I Lo actonliMl tlir honour of tl..- work. However, if Th.cilore Tl.onii.s 1)« not i. coiuluctor of tlu- Hi-st onJer, li« lias at least -onsiilfral.U- an.l vc-rv genuine merit H.- deHerveH the credit of having so udmiii.l.ly ft.rmed his orchestra, uud of hasing ai(le«l in the [.ropagation of classical muKie in America. MAltETXXV. Born in Italy of Hungarian parents, and resident for a loni; time in New York. Ahout tlfty yeare (.Id. H« has intelligence, candour, and good l-reeding, and is very iK)pular with the Americans. Hometimes in ti.e cai.acity of director, BometimeH in that ot conductor, ho has U-en connected with nearly all the troupe^ which have played Italian opera in the United States. When times were bad as director, he becanic conductor. But as he ih very much liked, he was won phiced again iii the i^ssession of funds, and set out to form a fresh trouiie, and to become one- mora u manager. I cannot Hj«ak of his merit as manager l)ecause I have never sw'n him at hi.? work, but I can affirm that he is an excellent conductor, anan, and he has lived in the States for twenty years. I paid a visit to his piano factoiy, and found it a magnificent building. The master of the liouse did the honours with n perfect ANS. ,»• timt it is tin- chff il tlif honour of tin- comluftor of tin- tii-M gfiniine luorit Hf ftirmt'd his orcliestni. of flassical iiuinic in 1 rcMident for n loiiu Ho lins iutclligfiicr, >ry ]>oi>uli«r witli tin- HometiineN in that of learly all tlie troupCN Jnited States. When iductor. But ab he in I ill the [wssesBion of p, aiul to bet'Oiite once ■ l)ecause I have never hat ho is au excellent chai-tuing muHic t Offenbach gawlens at n alx)ut three months' • some sort of manage- iii-ulised American, ami foiuid it a maguiticent > honourn with a pcifect HKKTOIKM OF CKLKIHIITIKH. «B good grace. He Ih a charuiiug miCi, with a Hy.u|iatIutio figure, and a frank ami (»iien counteuancu. Wi-othLr he is a descendant of liiH faniouH Maniesake, Carl Maria von Vv'eher, I canuo* say. I forgot to ask hiui. Hut in any cai««, e.en as tlu) uom|K)Ner mob niaNter of his art, ho the American Welie.' is master of his. His* |)ianoH aro very njuch sought after all over ^he HtRte.j. MORA. Mora is at the lieatl of the photographers of Incw \'ork, and he has a m\m-h establishment. This clienU'fr is the most agreeable imaginable. IJefoi-o hiu camera all the prettiest Americ-an girl» como (o iHJse themselves. They are right, as (if it were i)OHsible) Mora is clover enough to make ♦,hoin apiM-ar still more beautiful tlian, they actually arc. MARA Is a miniaturist. His sjieciality is tiie colouring of photographs and in making of thenv veritable miniatures, A SENATOR. I met in No.v York a i>eriionage who had raised Jiimself fvom u very low jiositita) to the ri w ! -; 5 iii-';ia,ras*CTW^^ wmf C6 AMKllICA AND THK AMERICAN'S. ^lollai-s. His; large fortune soon made hlin popular, and he fomid 110 difficulty ill lieiug elected to the Senate. In reading this sto) y, it may ))erhap8 be thought that ihe Senator has some roughness, if not absohite brutality in his maimer. But this is quite an eri-or. He is a veiy mild and coui-teous gentleman, speaking to everybody with much taste and tact. In France, Harpin, called the " Rempail; de Lyon," would have some difficulty, in spite of the curious times in which we live, in g-aiuing admittance to Parliament. But it comes to the same thing in the end, as moi-ft than once our Assemblies have been transformed into arenas where the combat is not always courteous. CHAPTER XV. THE CITY. FAIRMOUNT PARK. Arrived in PhiIiMlt>lphia! It is eleven o'clock in the evening. I have put up at the (Continental Hotel, a i-eproduction of the New York Fifth Avenue Hotel. Moi*eover, it is a fashionable place, for, as I arrive, the Americans ai-e giving o dmner to the Em- peror of Brazil, who also lives here. In my apartment I hear distant strains of music, not particu- larly harmonious. They are playing " Orphce aux Eiifers." Is it in honour of the departure of Don Pedro or of my arrival ? It must be one or the other. Or else they are playing during ^linner. The next day at 10 o'clock I went downstairs to the dining i-ooni to breakfast. An exact repetition of the New York repast. How- ever, there is one thing which gives a jieculiar iuid curious aspect 4NS. (opular, and he found lught thai the Senator in his maiuiPf. But 001111*0118 gentleman, net. le Lyon," would have in which wo live, in ; comes to the same Lssemblies liave been lot always courteous. • PARK. ck in the evening. I foduction of the New 1 a fashionable place, dmiier to the Em- Df music, not particu- lice aux Eiifei's." Is or of my arrival ? It T are playing during lirs to the dining i-ooni vv York repast. How- iar and curious aspect THE CITY. lAUlMOUNT lURK. G7 to the room. All the Wiiiters are negroes or mulattos. To be admitted as a servant in this hotel you must have a pot of black- ing on 3-our face. The dining room is immense, and it is truly wonderful to see thirty tables, great and sniaJl, occupied for the most part l>y very pretty women in groiide. toilette, and around whom hover forty or lifty negroes. The negroi,s are tine men, but tl • mulattos have sujierb heads. I have an idea that A lexaudre Dumas did not spend a bad time in this country, as the ixirtrait of our great novelist is vei-y prettily reproduced here. Soon after breakfast I went out to look at the Exhibition. But I forgot it \ym Sunday. On the Sabbath the Exhibition is closed, the houses and restaurants are closed, in fact everything is closetT in this joyous city. I met some people coming out of Church with their Bibles and funereal vestments. If you unhappily sigh on Stuiday they reganl you with flaming eyes, but if you have the misfortune to laugh they arrest you. The streets are superb, of a size; which the Boulevai-d Hauss- mann might envy. To the right and left are the houses of led brick, with window frames of white marble. From time to time v/e come across a prettier little building, while churches swarm. The charming Ph'daddphiennes probably liaA e much need of pardon . tiiough I did not obsene any vevy great wickedness. A new City Hall has recently been built of white marble, and it cost, they say, over eight million ixmnds sterluig. My two friends and I hardly knew how to sjiend our Sunday. We were advised to go to Indian Rock in Fairmount Park. It takes two houi-s to reach the place, but it is all through the Park. The Philadelphians are fond of this immense gaixlen, and they are right, for it is well-nigh imiiossible to imagine anything prettier -or more picturesque. Here and there are little chalets, peeping from amongst the branches, rivers seqientining under the trees, pretty valleys, shady ravines, and suijerb woods. From time to time are seen along the road restaumnts and 63 AMKitICA AND THE A3IKRICAXS. «il>arets full of |>eoi»l««. The men, accordiuij; to the American custom, wei-e lounging in rocking or other oliair(>, and with their feet on some ohject aliOAe their heads. All hud before them large glasses of rod, green, or yellow lemonade. Strong drinks are forbidden, and on Sundajs we are kept to nou-intoxicants. The liiw cannot, however, be equal for all, as a carriage driven by two iiatiAes who were absolutely drunk — I do not supijose they became in that state thi-ough drinking lemonade — made five or six in- eliectual attempts to iipset us. Tliese dubious obsei'vera of the Sabbath passed juid repasseliceman gravely enough moiuited the vehicle, and lifting one of them he threw him into the arms of another ]>oliceman, who received him with the gi-eatest [wliteness. When once the man was on the ground, the -policeman gravely took the reins and dreve the other ofl". They did not exchange twelve words. It was all done silently, gravely, and methodically. CHAPTER XVI. OFFEyBACII GAJiUL'X. The Establishment where I had to give my concerts, was a covered gai-deu newly constructed on the model of Gilmores Garden, b\it on a smaller scale. A similar i>latform, similar Ciiscade, similar Niagara, similar coloured glasses, and similar rustic private boxes. So much for resemblances, but what gave ine the greatest pleasure was that I had at Philadelphia nearly iiij;; to the American cliiiiif-, and with theif All hud before them uade. Strong drinks nou-intoxicants. The arriage driveu by two t suppose they became -made five or six in- lioiis obsei'vei'S of the they wanted to stick escendeil gi-avely from Ills of the horse driven jut of their carriage, enough mounted the him into the arms of ;he gi-eatest [wliteness. lie -policeman gravely 'hey did not exchange ely, and methodically. bi:x. ! ui}- concerts, wasj a e model of Gilmores lilar i>latform, similar glasses, and similar lances, but -what gave ;it Philadelphia nearly / OFFENBACH OABrH:N. ejv tlic same musicians as I conducted at New York. Tliey were, it is true, fewer — seventy-five instead of a hundred and ten — as the phu e was smaller. They asked my permission to call it " OfTenbach Carden," and I could not i-efuse. Offenbach Gartlen was as fortunate for me us (.Tilmore's Garden hatl been. The same enthusiusin, the same encores, and the sau e- biilliaiit concerts. On the morrow of each iierformance, each newsjiaper acclaimed my praise. Only oni; paper oflered me a i-epi-oach; to which I was very sensitive. In speaking of my liei-son, my bearing, my black coat, black trowsers, and white tif ,. the critic thought fit to observe that I woi-e [learl grey gloves. The i-emark was true. I ought to admit 'n all humility that I only wore white gloves four times in my life ; once as a "b<^ mail," once on the day of my marriage, and twice more on the man-iages of two of my children. I have already said that on Sundays concerts are no more i»ei- mitted than are other entertainments. One fine day, the proprietor of the garden came to announce he had obtained authority to gi\e a saci-ed concert. "I rely on you," he said. "I have already had the bills done. Lopk." And he showed me a placard which I transcribe faithfullv ftv the amusement of the reader Mho cares to turn over the ji.'ige. 70 AMEUICA AND THE AMERICANS. Oil ENBACH GARDEN COR BROAD AND CHERRY STS AT 8 O'CLOCK P. 31., GrRAJNID SACRED CONCERT BY M. OFFENBACH AND THE GRAXD ORCHESTRA IX A CHOICE SELECTION OF ' SACRED AND CLASSICAL WSIC ABMiSSIQN, 50 gEMTS LEDGER JOB PBIST, TBILAD w ^RDEN lY STS %K 9STII, I., E D IT BACH STRA i OF ' IlL WSIC PrLLMAX CARS. 71 For fight ilnys tlie "lari-nud sneietl concert " uas placairkd in nil parts of the city. During this time I had .Iravn np my pio- grammc ; u very jiretty programme. J)eo iiratias, from the " Domino noir" ; Ave Maria, by Gounod ; Mnrche religieuae, from " La Haine ;" Are Maria, by Schubert ; Litanie, from la Jielle Ililene; " Dis-moi, \enus ;" ffi/vut, from " Orphce anx Enfers;" Pi-ierc, from " la Orande-Duchesse " (Dites-lui) : -Dame seraphique : i)olka burlesque. Angelns, from the " Maringe uux Lauternes," Unhappily, permission was withdrawn at the last iiiiuute,- I " am Sony I could not can-j- out my idea, i.s I am persuaded that my " Sacred Concprt " would have had verv great success that evening. CHAPtEE XYIl. %X lliiictnvn. PULLMAX CAPS. What a beautiful countiy we pass through from New York to Niagara ! As far as Albany the views are especially mar\ellous. We pass along the admirable Hudson Ei^■er. I search my memory in vain for a European stream wliich can compare Avitli this American river. There are some parts which recall the finest places on the Rhine. There are others which surpass in gi-andeuv and in charm anytlmig I had ever seen before. For the rest, the journey is made under the most excellent conditions, Tlie Pullman Cars are a valuable institution. To be 72 amehic.v and the amehicans. in 11 1-ailwfty, and yet to liavo none of the inconveniences of the ruilway, is the great probh-niwhicli these niarvello.is cnmages have woiked ont. Tlic jiasscngt)!- is not cooi)ed up n« in Fmnce in railway eompaitnicnts, nor uie the liml)s stiffened by houra of immobility. In the American train, you can walk about, and can pass along IVom one carriage to the other, from the Inggnge van to the rnfrine. When you are fatigued by walking, yon c»vn lie down in jin elegant saloon, and on excellent fauteuils. You liave at com- mand eveiything which can render life agi-eeable. I cannot better express my admiration for these admirable cai-s than by saving that they are in tnith Palaces on wheels. But you nuist not have veiy delicate eai-s when on a jouniey in America. You are continually persecuted by disagreeable noises. Thus at Utica, where we stopped some minutes for lunch, I .saw, or mther I heard, a big negro, who beat a tam-tam. Some- times he beat loudly, sometimes at astonishing speed, sometimes with a measured slackness. He threw into his play, I will not say the nuances, but the best intentions. I almost forgit my lunch in watching this very amusing musician. During the last piece, I was all eyes and ears. Ho began by a fortissimo loud enough to make you deaf, as he was a vigorous man, this negro, and did not spare his hands. Aftej- this brilliant debut his music contuiued in a descendo, it arrived at a jnaiw, then at a pianisaimo, until at last — silence. At the same time the train started, and I had hardly time to get in, still less to ask questions. We arrived at Albany, where we 8topi>ed for dinner. Before the Albany restaurant, I found another gi'eat negro, very like the other, and who like him played the tam-tam. Plenty of this sort of thing, I thought. This is evidently a. couniiy where they love the tam-tam furiously. A. starved belly has no ears, says the proverb. I am sorry to ;an8. inconveniences of the •velloas carnages have 1 up as in Fmnce in stifl'ened by houi-s of it, and can pass along luggage van to the ;, you can lie down in 8. You liave at com- agi'eeable. I cannot mil-able cara than by 3els. 1-8 wlien on a journey iuted by disagreeable minutes foi- lunch, I it a tam-tam. Some- ling speed, sometimes lis play, I will not say jst forgit my hmch in inng the last piece, I isaimo loud enough to lis negio, and did not liis music continued in pianissimo, until at had hardly time to get [I for dinner. Before t negro, very like the This is evidently a. averb. I am sorry to Pl'LLM.VX CAIIS. 73 *'s\n-(im my dis.tpitroval of a saying .-iidorwd by tlie wisdom of nations, bnt in spite of my formidable ii|i)iotito tlic music of my lu'^ro followed iiu; diirina: . still four minutes, you Jiavo still three minutes." At Ijottom these two systems vci\- much i-esemblo each other The only difterence is that while one, stuns you with cries in the room itself, the other overpowers you by music in the open air. \ 74 AMKRICV AND THE AMmiCAXS. CHAFrElt XV 11 1. THE FALLS OF NIAOAUA. Mu(!U has been Avvitten on tlieso marvellous fallH, but no one lins yet fountl the words to utlequutely clescrilje the effect protluced by the huge stream as it falls fi-om an enonnoiis height in a fathomless wliirl, to the depth lielow. The sight of this vast amphitheatre, of this prodigious mass of water, falling with a reiKjrt of thunder, !' the sountl of a great enrtlu|uake, produceil in me a vertigo, 'd caused me to forget all I had read, all I had heard, and e)' my fancy had imagined. This mighty torrent, in a fi'ame>', -ti or savage nature, bordered by large trees of an intense ve- . ~, t which the spi'ay from the Avater incessantly falls, defies a'ii^e , j- tography, jiainting, and description. To describe we mi's :*omparc it. And with what can we comi)are Niagara, this i ued phenomenon, this permanent marvel, to whose gi-andeur no one can accustom himself ! As we were absorbed in anticipation of the fall — " It is here," said the person who accompanied us, " that an Indian was found dead a fortnight ago. Di-awn on by the current ^ in spite of his paddle, tlie frail craft which cariied liim approached the fall. The Indian, feeling the forces against him, knew he was lost. He ceased the struggle. He enveloped himself in his red cloak as in a shroud, and lay down at the bottom of his canoe. Some seconds after, he was dashed to pieces." After having looked a long time at the fall, I crossed the biidge and set foot on Canadian territory. " You would like to see the Indians," they said. I expected to find savages, but they showed me pedlai-s ; men who produced articles de Paris. I was frightened at their ferocious attitude. I still recollect theni. But were they really Indians ? I rather doubt it. .VN'8. 1 1! A. s falls, but no one lins he t^ifV'ct prothiced Viy height ill a fathonilfss vast Minphitheativ, of ■('IKtrtof thumler, 1' ill ine a vertigo, 'il lacl heard, and f)' my t, in u fnimev. 'iv of n intenHO ve- . ~, t falls, defies aUke , j- cribe ^\•e mi'H compare igarn, this i ued lose gi-andeur no one le fall— ipaiiied us, " that an IV wn on by the cuiTentr in-ied him approached nst him, knew he "was »ed himself in his red bottom of his canoe, 11, 1 crossed the bridge y said. ved me pedlara ; men :ened at theh' ferocious thev really Indians ? Hfi LOST PAlIl-mN (11' I-liANci;. 75 Indians or -.t, they sun-oimded mo, |M"i-tina(iously offering: ;ae bamboos, fans, cigar cases, and fusee cases of doubtful taste. They recalled to my mind the Indians of the forest of J<'ontaineblenii who sold jjenholders and pajier knives. Nevertheless, I made a few purchases, but I verily believe J can-ied back to Franco some trifles which had been |>icked up ar a Parisian bazaar which had been "selling off." C'HAPTEll XIX. ^ ^ THE LOST DAVPins OF Fh'AyC/':. On tho steamboat whicli took us to see the prettiest places pn the lake, there was a bill distribution. In Paris, when one of these handbill people offei-s you a pi-ospectus, you take it, because yon wish to encoumge trade, and ten steps off you throw it away. I fortunately did not act thus with my pi-ospectus, and I had my reward. As a matter of fact, tlu; paper which had been placed in my hands— almost in spite of me— is a precious document, which may ha^■e the highest influence on the destinies of France. Tliis document commences, it is true, by exj.lainijig in the huiguage of a vulgar guide-book the places of interest on either shore of the lake ; but it also contains an extremely curious jiassage, of which I am happy to Ite able to give the full text. " Howe-Point, near the outlet of the lake, is naned in order to honour the idol of the army, Lord Howe, who was killed at this place in the first engagement with the French. Here it was that Louis XVI. of France, through the instnimentality of two French priests, in 1795, banished his son the royal dauj.liin, when but seven years old, and aminged with one Indian chief Tliomas Williams to adopt him as his own son. He received the name of E .. 'i .i i i Ai»i. ,ii n(rii Vitl'l IIT " l'- " 'fct^i^jt-jam^f,;. ^ t 76 AMERICA ANI> THE AMEIIUANS. ElpHzer, and uftcrwnnl.M as the Rev. EU-iizer Willifitiis wj-h educa- ted and ordained to tlie'niinisti-)-, offieiatinK f"'" "-any yeaiH amon^ the (3noid»iH of western New York, and afterwards in \\'isci>nMin, where lio waH visited a few yefti-s since J»y the Prince de Joinville, and offered hirge estates in Fiance if he would renotuice his right to tlu) threne of France. Tliese temiiting offers he declined, preferrhig to retain his right an King of France, although he might Hjiend hii* life in preaching the gospel to the (toor savages, which he did until the tin'e of his death some yeai* since." After having read this tale, as interesting as it is time, I asked Honie questions, tnid Iptiiiwd that the Reverend Dauphin Eleazei- had left a son. Still anuthcr]net(ii(lerl Snpiwse this gentleinnu were to ani\e in Fiance. Anothcr complication ! CHAPTER XX. RETURN FROM XIAOARA. SLEEPING CARS. To retum from Niagara I took the night train. I was not son-y to tiy for myself the sleeping cars of which I had heard so much. I entered the saloon cai-riages, which were laid out as l^efore, that is to say with great fauteuils on each side of the gallery, special compartments for smokers, and all the conveniences I had so much admired in coniuig. There was no indication in the arrangement of tliese cars to show it v\ as possible to sleep in bed. I was mystified for a moment, as it ai>peared to nie impossible to give a bed to each of the ladies and gentlemen whom I found •with myself in tliis saloon. Suddenly, about nine o'clock in the evening, as darkness was v«.MIiiikMiwapw ANH. ■NVilHiiiiit* wi>.K cUiteii- ■or ii.uJiy yvvLiH iinionn wiuiU in \V'i«ci)iiMinr »f Priiif*' de Jouiville, hi reiiouiu'o his right ig offers ho (leclin»-(L France, although ho I to the jioor suvageB, e yeai-s Hince." ; as it is true, I ahkeil loml Dauphin Elonzei* Frauco. Anothcr / E El' IN a CAIiS. ram. I was not soiTjr luicl heard so much, ere hiid out as befoie, ch side of the gallery, the conveniences I had no indication in the lossible to Hleep in bed. ■ared to me imi>ossiblf ntlemen whom I found ening, as darkness wa» nKTinS PROM XTAOAHA. SLmPINO CARS. 77 aippnmrhing, tw) oniployoH t)f the Pullman conipuny Hp|)oarGd and -Met themselves to work. In the twinkling of an eye our fuuteuilH were trnnsformed into \hh\h. On tho fauteuils, joine.s who wished at all hazards to obtain some lines of mj- writing. My caligi-aphy was certainly at a premium. CANH. in the iioxt ciiltin on Qver tlio Hky, ami tli«i Moil iind wonion aiow! nioiH) or leHH ti>x«!tli«r s plaoo WHH givtiii up to inkling of an ojo, pul ,ing Hlo|it eacli on his ;ain MM frcHh and ns jtel. liiH wife and to Iiik wo puHued a sliop. J ;o the ladieH. n ono condition." ir of tho fan." •icans for autograplis. of indiscretion, id States, at least ten •ican tenitoiy. I was aurants, in the public ! streets, by invotenuo tain some lines of inj- pi-eniium. AUTOOU.U>HS. 7» And (hew letters were of all kindn, Home ingeniouH and othi th xMirious. "Sm, " I have made a Init with onti of my friends llmt you were iKini in Paris. The stake is considerul.le. Will you. I pray you, ;illow nu! to know by a fow woi-ds if I have gainwl my wager." Another had bet that I whn a nati\.! of (Jolojriio. .\ third had .urtirnied tluit my liirth-placo wiis the little tJennan t«)wn of OHenbaeh, Mel! known for its cutlery works. And every letter wound up with tho request " a few wonls." A certain number of my unknown foireMpondentH acted in Jinother way. " My namt; is Michel, and F am n distant relutioi' of your brothor-in-Iaw Robert. Send lue a few words t»» to!l uw. how ho is." lietween Michel ami Mitchell there was of coureo only a ditii-r- <4'nco of orthogi-aphy. 'riiere Avas also the following model. " Sir: I have something of veiy great imi>ortance to connnuni- fate to you. Will yon receive me ? A few words in reply, if you please." [ could give forty instances of this model. One day an Knglishman approached me as 1 ilined at the restaurant Brunswick. "I live in Kan Francisco," he said, "and } should like to have your name." My dinner drew near its end, and I gravely liandal him my engiaved caixl. 1 thought I had got rid of this original, but on the morrow he waited for me, and as I entered tho i-oom lie rushed towards me, and holding out a sheet of pajier, a ))en and ink, he cried in a supjiliant tone — " Your signature only. I leave this evening. Von will do me tliis favour as I come from so far away." I could not in my heart refuse a man who had "comb from so far .-iway." . « / «0 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Tiio i-jKjuests I rticeivetl were .^ach aocom^mnlecl by a stamped iuul diiectetl tnvelope. I thus collected fivo or six hundred postage stumps. I beg to inform my honom-ed Mends who thus begged autogiuphs of me, that I preserved tiieir stamps with care, iiiul have sent the pi-oceeds to a charity. They will receive there- fore, with my deep regret, the thanks of the poor. CHAPTER XXII. THE PUNISH ME XT OF A MUSIC I AX. Besides the ooneerts I was engaged to dii-ect, I had promised Madlle. AimC-e to conduct some of the performances she was about lO give in America. Faithful to my word, I held the baton of <'fie/'d'orclie{itt'e at New York at the theatre where Madlle. AimSe sang. I tliiis believed myself quit of my ])romise. But when I Jiad tinished my series of concerts at Philadelphia, she came to .aimounco that she was about to leave for Chicago, and to ask me to conduct one last performance at . I do not name the town for a very good reason. I was going on to Chicago, was on the way, und I consented. I arrived at — in the morning, and in the evening we were to perform '• La Jolie Parfumeuse." I Avent round to the theatre to rehearse with my orclicstra at least oice. I bravely moimted "the conductor's desk and "aised my fiddle- stick. The musicians commenced. I knew my scoi-e by heart. What then was my surprise to hear instead of the motifs I expected, a curious something which had at lesist a faint I'esemblance to my operetta. I could still distin- guish the melotlies, but the orchestration was wholly different to mine. A native American had evidently recomposed the work. My first movement was to immediately leave the rehearsal and to IVNS. iimni«3cl by a stamped fivj ov six hiiudred u-ed Mends who thus heir stamps with care, hey will receive there- a poor. lii-ect, I had promised jnnances slie was about rd, I held the baton of e where Madlle. AimSe pi'omise. But when I iladelpliia, she came to Chicago, and to ask me I do not name the on to Chicago, ud in the evening we I Avent round to the ist oivce. an I -aised my Uddle- vvas my surprise to hear something which had at I could still distin- was wholly diflPerent to ■ecomposed the woi'k. ave the rehearsal and to THE PUNISHMENT OF A MLSICIAN. 81 renounce the direction of the orchestm for that oveniiij;. ISnt Madlle. Aime'e besought me so much, and represented tlmt the- public would be angiy if I did not appear and that the |)orfiiv- mauce would l>e imjiossible, that at last I consented to resume my ]H}.St. I took up tlie fiddlestick and again ga>e the signal of attack. Wliat an orchestra ! It was small but execrable. Out of twenty- five musicians, there were about eight who were toleiably good, .six mediocre, and the i-est positively bad. To i ;'ovido against eventu- alities I asked one oi the second violins to take a drum, and 1 gave him some instnictions in a low voice. It was as Avell I did so, for there was not a big drum either in the orchestra or in thf? orchestration. . " Xlie reheai-sal was so deplorable that after it was over I made- fresh attempts to get off. It was lost trouble. IniiwssiMe to escape the execution of my work. " Happen what may," I said to myself, " I have prom'sed to conduct two acts, and oy the grace of God T will co iduct them." What a performance ! My two clarionets made coiiacs t ^eiy instant, except of conr.se when they ought to have done so In the comic marcli of blind men in the fii-st act, I noted sonv false notes wluch always produce an amusing eflect. Airived at this passage my clarionets stopped and counted the'r bai-s of rest. The- clown who reorchcstrated my music, had written this piece for the (juai'tet only. Already at relieai-sal I had asked the clarionetists to play any thing, no matter what, at this particular situation, knowing very well that the couacs came naturally. But I had reckoned without my host. Strong in their score, the brigands absolutely refused ti> march. " We have bars of rest to count, and we s hnll count them. There is nothing written for us." / / $ 82 AMERICA AM) 'I'lIK AMKRICANS. " But, goutlpinen, tlie conacs wliieli you uiado wJien there aie m> l>iuiKcs, are not Avritten, and yet j-ou gave us pLnty of tlicui. " Impossible to convince them. So much for the chu-ionots. As to the hautboys, they were fantastic beings who j>layccl from time to time when the fancy seized them. Tlie flute whistk-d wlien it coulil. Tlie bassoon slept half the, time. ^ The violoncello and contrul)ass were placed behind me, but thev passed the beat and made a contraband buss. At ea(!h moment, in conducting witli my right luuul, I alighted on the bow of either the cello or the donlde liass. I was deluged with false notes. The first violin — an excellent violin — was always too warm. Tliere was a heat of ninety degrees in the theatre, and the unhappy fiddler stopped to wipe his forehead. " Tf yon desert me, my friend," said I, " we ai-e lost." He put down his handkerchief with a look of sadness, and took up his instrument. But the sea of cacophony still rose. What false notes ! Happily the first act at last came to an end. An entlmsiastic success ! I thought I was dreaming. But all this was nothing to the second act. After all this eccentricity I naturally expect eil a tk-luge of adverse critiques in the papei-s. But nothing of the sort. Nothing but eulogium, warm praise for the masterly manner in which I had conducted. CHAPTER XXIII. THE FAREWELL APPEAliAM'E. Ojf my loturu from Niagara, I gave the promised concert. Im- mense placards covered the walls announcing that I should appear IICANS. mndc wlien Hiere are m> us pl'iity of tliem. " I for the clarioiiots. As ;s who jJayccl from time flute wliistlfd wlien it .J The violonceUo and By passed tlie beat and ;iit, in conducting witli either the cello or the )teH. The first violin — I. Tliere was a heat of inppy fiddler stopped to ' we ai'e lost." t of sadness, and took up still rose. What false to an end. L't. expected a deluge of ng of the sort. ;■ the niasterl\- manner uancj:. (remised concert. Im- ig that I should appear HOME AGAIN. 88 for the last time. Never had I seen my name in this style. The letters were as high and four times as large as I was. The American public showed its aj)preciati(3n of this tndy na- tional advertisement. The New York of elegance nnd riches came to Gilmore's Gardens. On my entry on the platform I was rccti\ td with cheers, huirahs, and enthusiastic applause. And they say that the Americans are a cold people ! I onght to describe the details of this evening, but as I have swoni to speak as little as possible about myself, I will not. Besides I was bewildered by the scene which passed around me, and deeply moved by so un- expected a demonstration. After the concert I found with difiiculty a few words in which to thank, for the last time, the musicians who had so ably aided me during my sojourn in America, and to wish them, with a sincerity which they could not doubt, a continuance, after my dv^parture, of the success they had so well merited. They thanked me in their turn for the pei-formance I had given for the benefit of their association, and they made me promise to return to America in two or three years. I promised — as we are apt to promise at such moments. But circumstances at present forbid it, although, I assure them, it would be very agreeable to me to re- turn to Yankee Land, and to gain a gi-eater knowledge of this marvellous country, and of a people who have accorded me a sym- pathy the remembrance of which I shall always hold most dear. CHAPTER XXIV. HOME AGAIN. On the 8tli July, I embarked on board the Canada steam ship, and eight and a half days afterwards we entered the port of Havre. I was Home ! The End. / / '-'»W»V'"'"W'T''*'W'.»" AOEBTISBHENT. UNIFORM SERIES OF MUSICAL WORKS. UFB AND LETTERS OF ROBERT SCHXTMAKTN, with Lisfc ;of his published works, by Von Wasielwaiti, translated by A. L. Alger, revised edition, witli Introduction, &c., by W. A, Barrett, thick or. sto. In September, JUnrSIO AND MTTSICIANS, Essays and Criticisms by Robert Schumann, edited, translated, and annotated b; Fanny Raymond Bitter, portrait of Sohumann, photographed from a crayon bj Bendemaiin, thick cr. 8to. 88. 6d. XHLERT'S LETTERS ON MUSIC to a Lady, bv Louis Ehlert. translated by Fanny Raymond Ritter, cr. 8iro, handsomely printed on good paper, 48. XIFE OF CHOPIN, by Franz Liszt, translated by M. W. COOK, cr. 8to, 6s. " Franz Liszt has written a charming sketch of Chopiii (= .'jife and Art." — Ency. Brit., new edition. XIFE OF MENDELSSOHN, by W. A. Lampadius, edited and translated by W. L. Gage, with Sipplementary Sketches by Sir Julius Benedict, Henry F. Chorley, Ludwis Rcllstab, Bayard Taylor, B. 8. Willis, and J. 8. Diright, Additional Notes by 0, L. GruueiiAL WORKS. lUMASTN, with List translated by A. L. Alger, A. Barrett, thick or. 8ro. Sriticisms by Robert Fanny Raymond Rilter, yon bj Ben'demaiin, tUiuk ^^73 bv Louia Ehlert, ndgomely printed on good ated by M. W. COOK, ig sketch of Chopiii i> }A(e — -T» r ' (\ ' tyffirT ' n T-).-, .^n. JF ^y .m ' ' gw i w i n i mim i i 1 . 1 1 .)i i nm. i mpadius, edited and y Sketches by Sir Julius 3, Bayard Taylor, B. 8. y 0, L. Gruiieii ruction to sing fi i or in etasses, by Thooilore lessons, roy. 8to, sewed 2i. B explained by £ni«t Dmily Hill, with a Fretam h. 6d. '-«'*A -./*! — aSl*. j i t i MBM li - I I p^