IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V ^^^jf^ K<^ '" ^^<^ 1.0 I.I billi 125 ■^ lU 122 !!? 144 ■" m 1-25 III 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► 0> /i -^ '? ''■* /A Sciences Corporation ^s^^^^^j^ ^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ■<^^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/iCIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Ttohnioal and BIbllographIo NotM/NotM taohnlquM at bibllooraphlqiiaa Tha Inatltuta haa attamptad to obtain tha boat original copy avallabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba MMIographleally unlqua, which may altar 4 .ly of tlia imagaa In tha raproduotlon. or which may algnlficantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. 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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un soul clich*. il est film* A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 I 3/fO ^Hf ^ eyyazt/uvest CdUectCorv j Fill J'nriif, Cm uhttum. \ NOTES ON \ P.ICA, l'.J.lNt. TWO i,£;CTUF(E3 i)i;i.ivi:ki;d bkfouk (tA)t: (Ducol)itiu xtuotitutc, hi 1)evenhbcr, ISSA, i;y COUJITENAY ('. IMlANCi;. K\ I'-.sDAM i>i;iNi"i:i> i:y W. Ik II- SMriir, *r •' I^KI.rAToRY NOTK. Tlii' followiiijj pu^i'M wort! written for tlie lii'ctiire Ki))iii, ill wliicli |>n'tt'iiti()UH »iiH(|iiisitit)iiH— HtatiHticH— mill a luMH coiivurHivtioiiul Hty1t> wuiiM havo Ix'cn out v\' jiliico. I )vm\ IK) tliiitight of tlu'ir HiihHoriuently rnpearing ill (III altiiling form. lint tliu Local Newspaper liaving given a very full report, ami kindly otFerotl, before distributing the type, to reprint it as a IJrochure, I willingly accepted the flugj;e«tioM, C. C. 1\ Ifdt/tcrlcii Court, Christ tnos, fS'-t'i| that yit itiorc will utteiiil the Heeoinl leotllie n< St week. .Mr. IlKliliKKI' Nkw, lue-niiKut of tho Inntitute, haviii;^ hiielly iniioiliiceil the lecttirer, Mr. riiANt'l-: Miiiil : Mr. Chainiiaii, ladieH atnl Keiitletneii, when your coininittee ilid iih' tlie honour to ask me to ; before you. If indeed " m my travels' history," I could ii|U!ak to ytm, as did Othello to poor l)eHd< mona, not only of " Hough <|uarries, rocUs, nuil ImUh wIiohc heads toneli heaven," hut also "of the eannilnds who each other eat, tlm antliropoplia^'i, and men whose heads do grow ht>neatl) their Hnoulders," then I might hope that you wotild " with a greedy ear devour up my discourse. ' Hut I have no KUih wonders to narrate to you, though I did, it is true, 8eo and hear aiid talk with (JrerK'y and Kay, the heroes of tho late American .Vrctic expedition, of whom men whisper Htrango and awful talcs in connection with their fumino and grievous privations. I ri'llccted, however, that every man sees the same thing with ditferent eyes. And it may he that soNie of the great, or lieautiful, or unacctistomed sights 1 have sein, d. -jtilicti as they appeared through my spectacles, will sii:llcc to while away an hour jileasantly. Their narration will at all rventa show that 1 have not lost my interest i:' liiis instituticm, "f which I was in funner duy.s a cuu-staut member. (Ai'pUiu.'H.) P! Nitll* I'N \«I|(H \ \\ ithMiii niitlii'i |>uftivi> lluii Ivt iiiv liiiMtiii into III) H>V,\»lli. Al HO*"* fllfc Ari.A^TM' \n ill Ifoi'lf Ml iiti|H)'tiitit iiii iiiiili rtnltititf tliiit it tuny unt i>r (iiiii»H til Miy II ti'W wimlit ii|iiiii It. 'I'll!' Mil iiiH-«lii|i v^liuli 1 kt'lit'lvil fiir iiiiili my \oyiiati iiiil i»iiil my ii-tiirii wuh tlic IIMll'IV IK'W MnMI I til Ai III iii'ii, !•• iMlixiiiK In tli<> N>ith>ii.il iiiit'. .^Iii' Im limit til' Mti'cl til II yiirlit iiliii|> Mill' iiiliiii'ilnillrN ll,VNI tmiM, iif wliirli 'J,M.<{ iin- ii|>|>lii prliitfil til ciiruii. 'I'lirlr iiti' !Ni hIiiIi' Ihuiiim all iili tin) liiitiii ilx'k, aii'l IKxi liiiiliH. Mill' In Imi iimciI to ntiry .'ItMl Htrriii^r liii'«Ni-|i;;i'rM, iiinl iii mIm IumI iiIi'*\ < iUMI Hint I'liiNit |i.i Will' iiiiif^' II liHKi' lldiitiiiu villa((i'. Hlie IntN \,i wiitrr ti|;lit ImiIIvIu.iiIn, ninl cntiiix iit'i' ami otlirr \nr)i>- lMi:it<«. Hl||i|i)is('i| to III' sll'tti'ii l liui'li' twii vnyaKi'* *'iit ainl liai'k tn Ni'w N'nik mIkm I wint liy hi-r liiit Ji.ul iilriaily |>|i.\iii III IMih' iitii- nf till' t;i>*fi'>«t VCHHt'ls nil till' siu. Ill K<*>i>K <>ii^> "ii'l ii) ('••iniii,; liniii)', I r\|ii'iii'iii-i'il niit' ilay of MtnlMI. ttli (liiKr ilayn I VNiiH iililii;i'il tn Liilllllii' lliysrif to iii> liirth. iiiiil tn try tn (m.'il, in niii- nt ('ii|it. MiiriyntH iimvi'In. till' I'niniiintiMiiH iiiitMi'U aiKl iiiHiili' my itiilni tiiii;iti> laTMiiii. Itut till* ntliir ilayH I liiainiKi'*! fairly will, i'ML'U|ir'»>H, ami rr^'iil;ii!y |iiit in an a)>|ii'iiiam'i' at the liri>ak- Inst, iliniii I . aiii':irW till' wlmli' i>t tliar |iili'liinK ninriiiit (wliiih ih mo linn inli' all i'\|ii'i iriiot', hii ili'Hult^il a ri'inUi i timi, in, nay, tlii> I iiivfi ami t 'aliiiM hiiiits) in ilnm* ivw.iy with. Thi' AiiiiiirA li'li'M ii|inn t wii w.iMs at nnri', ami ntt''!! in iici M|i|t'niliil valiMiii (luaily 1(0 r'('i.'t li<;;h, it|ihiitMti'i'i'il with ;^ililiii>;, riili vi Kt't , aiii|iti' mirmrs, ami nilniiiril kI'I^^i »iiil llnnili'il witli thr tiiilliamy t>\' Mimr twi'iify rU'itrir liulitM) mii' iniitr for- w'ot liiat wi' wi ri' I,(Kmi milis t'lniii lami, aiin^' iimimii- »*li'. Thi' vnya„'." nut. llnrrtnrr waM vi ry a-^ri'tahli', ami was i«,'<;nm|ilis|ii''l in thr short sjiaci' of >*' (lail t III' rniMtiif twill' to birak mu' srriw nf ntir y»i>|H'lr"i will n MM' ii;ivM out. Tin' ship MciMiTiim m wont 'J\* fjJh'M >in nour. ami om- ijav iiiailr almvo IX) mili's w «p«i'il ^l^s :iMiHisi wit.lionr |.,i.i|i|fl KOTlH ON \MICI(|l.\. AMKIUCV.N HC),\l>\\AVll. ItitMii;; thiia aiifi'ly liunli'il At Ni*w York, iiml liAviiiu Im'iIi ilritit liii'li'ihllly Hitli tty till' ri|«r)i|ii lliMiNi' otlii 'TN, I rut (k liiiti'i till' IliiiiiNMU k. iiiNi'lliii WMiii " riitlli ' ailviHi'iJly, for tlii> wlmji' tniiinit wim ii miifa of jiitn|i>i, joltN, jiiiMJin, tiiiiililitii(N iiikI loMMiii^fit ; iiml nlin fi'lt lii)|i|iy to III' lit liiit mill' nil till' liiiti'l Ht« |m witlioiit liioki'h !ii'iiil ))i III lilt M, lliiMii^li I'm iIhh liM'ly iliivr III Iihh llniii ilint' iiiili'M I Iiml III itiiiiil mill ili'livi'i'iilMiiit iIm, 'iil. i')tl^l|H||. < iiliM iiiv It'itr •vriywlii'i'i' ill Aniriirii, iiiiilriMnlH Iiml maily «'v«>ryHlii'ii'. I Iiml ihiimiiI iti tlim iltivr IIimhii^Ii muiiu' of tilt' |>iiiit'i|iikl nIi'i'I'Im III' Ni'w N'mk, iiii liiiliii;; jtiD.iilwav iiml part III' till' I ill liialt'ii .'itli Amiiiu'. Itiit tin- mailM ant I'ltiiiril Willi liiii(i' Nttiiii'M, mill ail' ili'ciilt lily ini'i'inM to lliu M'coiiilclaMit Hti'i't'tH of H lliinl mti> KiikIinIi tomi. TliiN i-ailv t'NiM'iit'iiL'i' I fidiiitl ri'|iialri| in ivny nly I wi iit into ill till' I iiiti'il Slatii, WaMJiiiutiiii «'Mi|itrttal ax|i|ialti')| mailway iiiiil I \urllrtlt Hlili' |>a\rllli'lltM. Iillt ill iit liil tit ii m iilll' Kii^UnU liiiiL'ailaiiiiHt'il I'uail nit ihh lu'aily m riilinly wauling, (ilit'ii till' |)iilili(' Nti-i'i'l it iHitliiii^ lull till' iiiiliii.il Nwil, iiii|iarriitly Mitliiiiit any attriii|it liasinx In m iiiinlr at an) linif to t!oiit it with MliiiM'ft ; ami tin' Miilc walks or iiiivi'imiitH iiih lint int'i('<|ni'ntly nn'tf pliinkM \i\\\ hhIi' liy Hi>li'. 'I'lii-*, iinli I'll, \h always tin' taxi- m now citirt ami in tln' iiiiIImii^ luii'tH lit' iilil I'ltns ; ciiiiHi i|iirntly at tiniiN tlic nnnl in mo ill i'|i that it iH ahhiilutrly iin|iii.sNih|i' to pumn Iroiti oiu' Hiilu of the Nti't'ct t«i the otliiT ('\t'i'|it lit croNiingM, wlitTf niilo Htn-i'tH ill liiiiicli ami ulnii' |>liinkH nn' I liil ilown for tlio triiM't'Ni' hy tootpaHHi n^rrs. Thr iiioHt tiikiiiK Miircinn n of t his which I naw was iii \Viniii|ii'g. Ihiii*, H|ii'akin;{ without I \.iKK''>'>itioii, till' main Htrit-t, two niilvH Ioiik. wiih uiki' i|Uii;{niiii' of hlack, Hticky niml, u foot ili'i'|». i ln'oiiKlit Hiiiiii' of this mini hoiiii' witii inr on my dothi'H ami iini tmantiaii, which 1 hinl vainly triiil to hiuHh otf. Ami if I hail lii'i'ii unfoi'tunatt' tnoiiKh tti get into it hoiiils 1 iiiiL{ht have licin Ntickin^ in it still. To iiNoid this cataH- ti'o|)hi' one wriit always in strci't carH, for which ii hanl track has liti'ii laiil, with th*' usual iiu'tul rails. 1 must inM, howcxir, in justice to the \^'inniIle^{K^rs, that they have a ilitlicult Hoil to conteml with, nre alive to their |ili;;hi, ami were |ie;.;>ro\cil or im-lalleil roaiU. lint if the structii of America arc bad, thu ri lu.ir iirii.niNus and smoI'm trt! very fine. Taking the shops first : these nn a rtilo are larger, muii; lufty, ami of more architectural pr«.lLiuiiou J fMiU t„ ,|,„ "" , • 'f'"'B tlidr i,r,„„| „',""' "'■"■" "I- iiiMilSi track's ^LlV| l''° '"^^■''" ^tniZTf V- *"''^''^''' NOTKm on AMKJIUA. ''"'^•'l'''in, iili.l "'"«•<• VuIlKiM,. H ^'"N i NJIW <"• ill tvcM t^'SOIIM- of f|„. t'lis limy |„. '*'3'<'li(| tJicsc " ^'it' I-oiiviv |M)liz(M| by ;i !«<' seven or '"■imiiiciital ' W'licl, 11,.,. f '■>" 'll'liisf, '■^. "'"I flicy '"■ictiin- a'fi •'■«• 'J'liis I yt'iu'iiillv, ■** sold Uy and cvi'ii " Anifiiea •'•'^k in \iiiii ^'n's on ^■(licli ,t'- 'Olt (Jllfy. tfiko tliis ^^■•'lyos of t. Jurtlior in innny 3 winf.T "OSS are I'-'tits of I 'States. 2tion i,x iiH'dijiio t if the ■('■'■! an({ lian/ly tic;uf. To return to M'AV vol IK. i Situiitc at till' liead of a di'i'ii iui'l land lucKcd Iiay, ind with a Hi»li'udid liver fnmta;,'!' (»n each .side of aliotit fourtiMii niih's, it IS eniini-nlly Niiiti i| iur II nuitMiilde city, and tlie erii'i'-y of its inhaliitants. suii|ileiiienl in;^ lliis U\, ,\n interior river and iMnal system, has secitrt'd for its coiinth'ss \vhar\ < s and warehiHises a lar,:;i- |)r>i]>ortion ol' tiie import and export trade of America, .\iriong its important Imildin^'s aie its c;ipiliilly-niana;;e(l and pliiniu'd post-ollice; several line ehnrclies and places ot worship - eliief t>f wliich must he put tlie Cathulic C'ailii'dral of St. Patrick, built of VN hue iiiarlile in the I iothicstyU', and the .lewish synai,'oj,'ue, with a ;.,'ofgeoiedy oriiainentt d interior also the New ( 'durt House, and the m;iiiih' City ilall. 'I'lie .")lli AveiiUi' llotid, the llollman llou>e, and sevijal oilier hotels arc iialatial and niiiarkaltle structures ; and the clubs, I'roiluco r.schange, t'ooiiers Insiitute, .Vston Lil>rary, .St. F.uke's Hospital, \vitli thcijlhcesof the " New \'ork Herald and " Tnljiine," ami the ijrand Central Railway Depot reward attention. Depot, by the way, is the universal American namo for wluil we call tin- r.ulway station. J>ut the thi'M' rliin-s in New York tli.it are ninst distinc- tive are the ('(litr.ii I'aiL, the elevated railroads, and Jirooklyu JJridpie. CKNTIiAI. I'AKk any city in the world ini,^lit be pmud of. it contains 8 l.'i acifs, tlunu^h vvliieh run nine mili's of carria:;e drives, and alioiit 2.'i miU s of walks. 'J'iiere are two large ornamental waters in it, and upon one of these an elevated and imposin;^ terrace of consideralde architectural merit, tlanked liy cirefully cultured yard-'us and s\veei)iu;^ paths, looks down. It is decia'ated with trojiical jdauts and flowers, and becomes, as it were, tlie eye and centre of the ]'ark, the focus of fashion. I'or from this terrace runs " The Mall,"' on each side of wiiicli is a trim-kept velvet lawn, sacred from tiie in'ofauation of human foot, vvliere at fixed hours tiie band plays, while the adjacent carriage roa ds are tilled with daslan;^ equipages and "t rot ting buggies." A font fiiS'inhfe is thus produced which in some respects excels Hyde I'avk and the Serpontine. But what specially distinguisliesi this ])ftrk from our English ones is tliat its surface is naturally more varied and broken, and so far as ]iracticable the natural features and wildness luitod too tliiit this jiiivk and evi-iy otliiT jiaik or Hquart' in New York is without any iron or otlu-r lioiindary fVute. It isninarkalile liow tlii.H trust of till' in'opU- i.s rt spoii'lrd to liy tlif liropK', I'hv liusy citi/i'U or tlif lanh'ss Ixiy, say in I iiioiiH(iuan' or Maili.soii-H<|Vuirc', at the vi-ry hoart and crntrt- of tin- city, wliiTu tiiiiu i« numt valual)l»', not cutting the Hhortfnt way across the turf to the other side, Imt Ci)nlininj^ himself relii^iously to the asphalted, tlMJUj,'li cnr\in;{ and longer footpath, and never plucking the really tine tiowers which yrow there tlay and night unprotected from deiircdation. THK " KI.KVATKI) UOADs" nre four railways which are carried on pillars some 'JO feet liigh through some of th»^ principal streets of New York. 1 suppose tlure are 'lO or »iO miles of this rail. The trains, com[)osed of steam engine and carriages of onlinary kind, run every three nunutes, and the fare for any distance is ') cents, or aliout 2.jd. A doul)le line of rail is thus supported in the air. When the streets are wide the iisual carriage anut, as 1 mentioned in a letter I sent during my tour to the Knslvim JourtKt/, no one so injured got a sixi)ence of compensation. It is openly said that the money that should have comiiensateil injureil individuals went into the jtockets of the City IJoard, who were thus bribed and bought to legalize this extraordinary substitute for our underground railway. THE BROOKLYN SUSPENSION BRIDGE connects New York with Brooklyn, which is a city with half-a-inilliou of inhabitants, divided from the empire city only by East Kiver. It was opened in 18IS3, and is the nmst stupendous erection of its kind in the world. It is *J,000 yards, or approaching one mile and a half in length, and is 13'! feet above high water mark. The stone towers which carry the chains are 2(W feet in height, and the notes; UN .vMi:r.ir.v. 11 'to. too n,at '•^' "/Ntw York in itiHirMiark,,,,,^. f'»;. Niioi t,.Nt u,;; '•""'"'Ui;,' Jiijnsdf ':'"'", '"Kl Io„,r,.,. ';'-.s.some20 feet tNof New York. '"• /'111' tniin.s, / •"•''"inry kin.l ' "".V .listiu.ce is "'','. <'"« super. J'Ut uJieiitho ot. the coliiiiiii.s <: fe'ufs on helovvr 1'1« tl,e track :• . ^t roIJows '» Jt «« taken "'J »nJockc'(I and / si'iit (Jurinij '"ii'«e,l got a 'at the money yuhuih went e thus hribe.I ^bstitute for «■ f'Jty with o'nj'ire citv ami is the ,«r^''- It is f 111 length, "•lie towprs t, and the Utaci' hetweon them in 1. •!()(> fret. The coHf ,if the hriii^u hiiH III Ml Hcveiiti'en milliiiMM of (lulhiiH. Thi- \ic\v (tvertlie iiiuliour ami HK TO MON TliKAL. r.iit tlic ra'(»idity with which the jiages multiply warns mn that 1 must l)e more concise in my descriptions, and tliat I must hasten on Ity a more general di'scription of my route. The great reason that decided me to make this tour in America was (as somt! of you will know) that I might join the I'.rUish Association ineetmgs at Montreal. 1 made my way to th;it y the river Hudson, and by lakes (Jeorgo and ( 'ham[dain, taking en rontc a little peep of Saratoga, «>f tiie Adirondack mouutai'js, and that wonderfully weird and uniijue ri\iv-gorge krown as the Ausable Chasm — the delight of geologists. This route comprises, 1 sM|»pose, some of the Uiost piuturesipu' sceiieiy of Eastern America. Tiie Hudson is a magniHcent fuU-tlowiug stream, and the first forty miles or so from New York it runs between strange basaltic precijiices of lofty and imposing character. And further uji are frei|Uent private residences and hiwns, and rich fruit farms. lUit In lore long it grows tame and is vulgari/.ed by a competing railway that runs on either bank, ch)se to the water's edge, and l»y huge ngly .scjuare block buiMings, inexjilicable at first, but explained to me as the ice reservoirs of Ntiw York. Kven the size of the stream niilit.ites against its i)iotnres(|U(.'ness, because it renders it difficult to oomi)ine its two banks into one picture, so that as a whoh^ I d(j not cottsider it is to lie named with t'.c Mhiue, or Neekar, or Klioiu', or even in reliued scenic iHauLv *'.iti', our KngUsli Wye or Tamatv 13 NOTRM n\ AAtRHICA. AMKUtC.W /. KVilLISH SCKNKKV. liake (ii'orgo Ih cfrtaiiily cliaitniiig, its hIioi'i'h wiinliiiK, ilccply iinlt'nt(,'»l, iitnl aluniinliiiy in Idvdy siiriniHi's. Its lakf-sido iniiH, too, uiv dt'liglitful rt'siili-nct'M, j^jiv iii^ life ami varii'ty to tlio fort-Ht faHtut'ssoH, yt(t oaliiily Hh-fning ns it wt re on \\w brim of tim hluuaiul snimy water, wliih; i)eliiiinient stations and distances. On an alarm of fire some one run.s to till' nearest box, breaks the glass, and simultaneously an alarm is given by electricity to every fire station in the town, whether they number twenty or one humlred. |Mr. Trance proceeded to read from bis journal a de.scrijition of an alarm of fire given at Montreal, unknown to tlu 14 NOTKS ON AMirnrcA, tlniiD'ii, ill iinlri that tlio iiKtiiticrH of tli<> liiitisli AsMocin tioii iiiinlit Mif liiiw llif aiiiiiij;i'iiii'iitH wt-iu «iurii' first i>iiuinc was nil tilt' i;i()iiiii|, ami tlif liiNt caiiir ii|> in rlrvcn iiiiiiiiti m, lia\iii;4 Ihcii Itntii^'lit tlinc niilcs, all u|i|iill. 'I'lii- tiif «>Nai|it'M wi'i'i- almi liroiii^lit, ami Mr. i'miict- iiu'iitioucil a contrivance by wliicli tin- linhltrH an- easily inani|)ulat«'(| in «iiirr«iw ' incoiivciiii'iit placi'M. Twtiity «'nj,'iiifs caim' in aimwcr u the huimiiioiih. TIu' It'ctiinr wriit on to di'sorilu' tlif Ottawa fin- I'staltliHiiincnt, wliitli is claiiiud to In' tlif inoHt porfi'i't in the worM. Hi' was toM tliat in 22 hccoihU nftcr a fin- alarm Hcvcn ♦•nsiiu'H would he in tlu' stivi'tH-- tliat till' I'lcctrio shock not only «'tr('('tiiiilly roiisnl tin* fiif- iiicn, Imt o)i('ni'(l the HtaMfdoor for tlic horse, ami that tlio iiorsc walkt'il out ami jmt himsflf hctwccn the shafts of the i'n;,'in('. (I.an;,'liter.) lie at first tiioii;.dit that was rather a ^(ooil American story, hut was afterwanls enahleil to wit- ness the eff'et;t of an alarm of which he ^'ave an amusing account, nml saw all that was claimed )icrformed. 'I'lie ithock |iut in inotio»> a siinjde coiitrivniKU' hy which the Htahle door was ofieiied, Hiid lu' saw the horse, which stands harnessed day and ni;:lit, walk out and take his stand hetween the shafts, while the lu'd-clothes of the sleeit- in;,' fireman were imlkd off him, and he completed liia dress at the enj^ino, on which the remainder of liia outfit was ]tlaced. Only 22 seconds was allowed the men from the time of the alarm to j;et the enj^ine into the street, and ntone station he was told that a hole was made in the hedroom floor and a Jirass column introduced so that the fiiemnn mi^jht savt' time hy sli|i|»inj? down tho column instead of going downstairs (laughter) -as the latter oiteration would make him lose liis chance of reward for promptly reaching the scene of the fire.] The Lecturer then continued : — But we must return to Montreal, which, as being THE CHIEF CITY IN CAN.VDA, deserves some detail. It was foumlcd by a French religious colony in l(i42, on tho northern bank of the St. Lawrence. It is built between two forks of the Ottawa river, where that stream empties itself into the St. Lawrence, and its site is thus a triangular island, which rises from the banks of the larger river in a gradual ascent of 700 feet to the summit of a hill called ]\Iount Royal, which gives name to the city itself. This rnouutain is clothed with a glorious wood, diversified by rocks and precipices, and has been turned into a public park and cemetery. View terraces have been erected upon il which show tjir city and flic livci ncstlini' at its trc.\. KOTK'4 ON .\MERr«V\. lA "ftho I'.rifi.I, AsMona f'H wn,. (aMi«.,| lit. In "'"'"I Um' first fii«iiii> "■ ',''' '" •'''•^»'" iiiiiiiitcs, "II "I'l'ill. Tl... (in. '• ''''"lit*' nifiiti.)ii,.,| ji '• ''ii^ily imuiipulut,.,! ill n.iity riijrj,,,,^ ^.n„„. jn "• I- went (.1) t.. .l.-scrili.. Ii 1^ cliiiiii,.,! to Im- til.' f«;l-l tl.iitii, 2L'H..c.,n.|H ''• •'<• III till' Ntrvcts — •f'ljilly roiisnl flic fin- tlif liorsc, iiixl that til.! f\V(( II tlu'sliaftsof tlio '"lylit that was mtlicr iwiinis ciiaMcd to wjt- I lie K'lv*' an iiiiiiisinj; iM("tai„| take his Mtaiid -•lothl'H of thi- sh...],- inl he coiiiph'tcl hiH I" ri'inaiiKh'i- of hi8 »»(1h was nUowr.l th(5 vt the oii<,'ijiL' into tho thiit a hole wns niado oliiinn intro.luci-(| so •y wlippinj,' down tho s—( laughter) -as tho lose his clinnce of ' Hct'iio of thi! fire.] wt' must return to NAPA, indcd by a French irthern bank of the I two forks of the il>tios itself into the a trianyrilar island, he larger river in inmit of a hill called lie city itself. This ^vood, diversified by timed into a public 'f been erected upon vcr Jicstling at its • miui'dinfc foot, mid wldi-awny pan<>riniiiH, i»\ir fon'«*t, ;i' ocean liiitiM I'lum tin.- varitdis Kiirom'an portn, uiid with the river Mt<.>aiiicis, Sailing vi'HSL'ls, nnd the wood 111! r„'tf< of Canada and tlu' I'liitid States, 'llie St. l,uwienuo is 1,."> miles loii^. Ah to its liirlow (^hiehec it e\[iaiids, and thelico to the Kuif it varieH from 10 to ir» miles in wiilth, and diiriiiL.' t lie whole of that di> miles fioin tilt! Atlantic to .Montreal. Its fasoiiiiilile positit!!! for ctimim ire ami the public sjiirit of its iiilialiitiiiits have ii.iide it a very busy and inereiisiii;^ place. At its last ewii lutore win re he )>roposetl, Mark Twain or ■ "That Ik! nt)t Ctllllll tliny half a brick without lireakin;,' a church window."' 'I'I.e Catholic Catluilial of Notre l>iime is the most impths- iiig of these sacreil eilifices, but We must not tlelay upon them. The Wimlsoi Hotel slioulil bo named as delightful in its comfort and magniticeiit in its Htiucture ami e(piiit- munt. Ami there are two excursions always nimle from Montreal which I must also speak of. These arc to tho ^'ictoria Ihiilge ami to the l.iichine Itapids. The britlgo carries the (hand Trunk Railway across the St. Lawrence. It was built by Jiiassey and I'eto, on the i>lans t)f Stephen- son, and is considered a gri;at triumi>li of eiigineerin}^ skill. The dilbculties to be t)vercoine were not only the tle|(th ami euneiit of the stream, i)Ut its great Itreatlth, the contractile mill e\))aiitliiig (|uality of irmi under the extreme variatituis of tempt rature it would be here exposed to, and the enoi mulls pressure of the ice on the breaking up t>f the winter frost. This last is cleverly met by the, as it were, wedge-like shape of the ;'iers uii stream, many faced with Bteei, which causes the ice to break asumleraiitl glide asitle. It is '.>,1.S| feet ill length, ami the railway is conveyed in Hit tubes of wruiiglit boiler plate iron, sixteen feet broad ami curiously and scientifically bolted together, but with a in Nt»l» ON AMKIIW A. ciifiiiii iilny Nil jis fn Jilliiw for tlir i'\|iiUHiiiii nixl oonrrnc tiitn nf tlic iiu'tnl in tin' fxtit'iiifs nf MiinmHT licaf ami wirittr (Did. Tin Mf tiili.H mo MU|iit(iit(i| l>y -I |»i«'is, 'I'lif cnifiv spmi is ;{;{(» t«tf ; nil tlir .iHhin Ul'J fnt. W« liitil a littU' |iiun)ililff on tlir l>iiil);i> ^ivrii to iih, aiiH fi|ual to I'JO acres. I wilit tliniu;4li ■|HK I.At IIINK llAI'lli."^ twific. Tlity arc licantifnl, hut liaidlv tlaii joroiis. Kcuks ill till- Ntniun, mill n torturous (;liauii<-l, ami a M-iy lUK-vtii liottoin, cause till' St. Lawrt'iic' for lialf a iiiilcat this placi' to lit' jiractically uuuavi'_'alil«'. I'lu- river trallic iscarrieil oil l>y a cmial cut aloiiu'siiU'. An Iiwliaii, a Hjiccially powerful luiiM ami nkilful jiilot. is eii^'a'.,'eut the inexperienced traveller fancies «)n(;e and a;,'aiii that tl hefc le vessel is ^'oiu!^ Iie.nl on against the rocks no sees neioro her hows, and lie can see too that in such case she will ho .sjilintered into fragments. IIp knows not that the pilot heads her )trecisely for the rock, aware that the force oi tho current will at tho exact instant turn her from it, and that if ho did not thus just .scrape tho rook on tho north ho would ho cariied full butt on another rock at tho south. The whirlpools, tho waters rushinj; upwards against tho current, tho heautiful green cohmr of the stream, its white crested wavos, and tho showers of spray that come dashing over tho vossel'sprow as she idunges forward, joined to tho rajiidity of tho motion and tho little tromour of in- security, comhine to make tho excursion agreeable, and tho novel experience idcn.sant. liut old travellers spoke of it as something awful and death tempting, and made a great deal more of tho passage than it deserves, rrobahly in a rowing boat it would be more exciting. The verses in which a i»oet has described the scene are however so pretty that they will bear (juotation. They run thus : And we have passed the terrible Lachine, Have felt a fearless tremour thro' the soul, As the huge waves upreared their crests of green, Holding our feathery hark in their control, .^s the strong eagle holds an Oriole. ! \Ml!.IlH \ r M'"iisj,,(i nii.Jn.nfr.ir '","''•'1 ''.V L'l uirrn !'v<'M to UH, an.I (.1,0 "'|.y Kive veil III, ,M,,;j ft IH tli.it tl,.. ,,a,t, ••"•tH, Hinl H.. i.n!i,h.,| ties. •laiiK-nniM, H„i:ks iin.l a vcy uiicvfi, » iiMl<'attlii.s|,I„,v <•!■ tntdic is car-, ir, I •"li'in, a s|.i.ciiilly ♦'"Ka-.«.| U tl,e tH tliion-l, tliom »'f\VC«-|, foft,,,. ni'l liis Htronj^ann "I'll, inak(> it miff. ii"»' ivikI a;,'aii, that >Ck8 1,0 SOCS l.(>f(„i. 1 ca.s(> Hho will ho not tliat the pilot It tlio foico of thu f»"»n it, and that H' iioith ho would tiM' .south. The •'« ayaiust tho Ntrcatn, its white lilt coino (lashing ^rd, joined to the trcinour of in- I ngieeable, and Old travellers tempting, and »an it deserves. more exciting.' d the scene are tion. They run of green, I .\rntlln'r I'MMiCMimi I tnnih* wiis t»» Ottawn, niid llnn ii> lvin;{stu|i, (III |„il.< niiliiiio, Ihat I liii;4lit tiilvc ihtf.'U lliO slcantcr, .iii<| (uim d<)\\,t tltuu^h thu wi'll known TIIOl r^VNK l«;lit i,iiU's Itrmnl) tn, n dtstiincc ttt 'Xi imIIch, iin lotks, otiKr^* have a fi-w trrcM (»n tli> \, Some lire c«»v( I'd witli ticcH, wIiohi- liiaiicliisaliiioKl, dip into llif strcaiii. (Mln is a^^aiii arc 'Hiitc liuv't", and an* divtiHilHil Ity (•iitta;,'«'s, hoiils, .11, d In jgliL villas. Vrt otliirs iiri! nioiiopoli/.i'd l>> one man. with hJH mansion, Itoat-liouHu, liatliiii;^' liuiisf, mid hiiiiiim 1 -liou.His, tlyim^ nition.il tlai^s, and paiiiti'd in ^jaiidy coliaii.s. Any, with viiUas hetwn 11 tln-m of singn- larly liUn^ and sunny w.itif, make a si'iics of eliarniinj^ pictuiis, and tiny nnist Itf phasiint em.u^li to \\w ann>ii;„', and lioal anion.;, and visit alanit in during the hot summer nn.ntlis. At, the same time f did nnt ^o into the extrava- gant cistasit s whicli the Canadians appanntly expected to heai' tioiii 111'; and foniparin,:^ llieniwitli the Islands of Jjoi.h Lonnnid, I ninark that, with the sanu' general eifeuts, oni! missis any counterpart to thu frowning and overhang- ing mass of rii.it Dili l.onn»nd. While I was niakiii'.; Montit.d my Ininl-ipiaiti'is, and heft^ru tlieliritisli Associa- tion nn'etinj^s hegun, 1 made a viuit tu QLKni;c, with its int<>nstii,g associations, its Vails of iMontinoreupy, and its falls and Indian village of Lontte. (^>iieliec, washed hy tworivirs, and ilitminated l»y J)ulfiyn-terrace and the citadel which cidwii tlii' precipitous elitl', up the more acces- Hihlc Hide ui' which the city secins toscrami)li' and pull itstdf hy winding; streets and steej* llights of Htep.s, is jieihaps tho ino.'^t ipiaiiit, jiicturesiiu ■, and royally-placed town I s.iw in my travels. It is ilivideii into the upper ami lower town, the former heiii;^ within the fortilicatioi.s ; and heyoud the \il»per town a-aiii lies the citadel covering 40 acres of the top of Cape Diamoml Dl'O feet above St. Lawrence. It is tli(' stron;.;est foiucss on the continent, and has been often called " the (Jibralrar of America." (Quebec is still very largely French, and at every anyle one comes on something (|ueer, or old-fashioned, or interesting. Jiut it is so well- known, and my pajier grows so long, that 1 must leave it and its memories of Wolf and Montcalm, and hurry on to th(i I IS NOm n't AUCRrt A. CANADIAN WATKniNU I'l.Ai KM. brivfii from (^Uflioc by (liv grunt hcnt (it wuh '.)'J' in tho uliiiiic) I Mill oil to tlio fuNdioKiiltli' Citnuiliaii wuti-iiii^ pinto, Cucoiiim, to |{i\ it'i'f lie Loiiii, uml to'lniluiimic, wlurc I I'tijuycil the t'ni'iiitlv Nociuty ot tiu'^iuNtN 1 iiitt lit tltf huidiiu'I' lioti N of tlioHu pIncL'ii, uml nUo h«>4iu> Itutiiiii^, wliit-li witit aliiioNt too colli, tor till' Ijilxnilor ciuifiit HctH uloiig tlu'Nc Hliore.i, 1 iiiny ri'iiiurk licro tlmt tlu; AiiH'ricuiiH Hci'iii to go rn /amide to tliuNu ttutntmr liotilH ; tlint, nccupyiiig onu Inrgu Kitting room, niul all lirniktuNtiti^ uml iliniiig nt tlut Hntmi hour tiiiil in thu miiia* Muloon, uvrii HtriingtrH Hoon know i'ucii iiltii-r uml iKx-omit gooil friiinlH ; inNoMuiuh tlint nt liiHt i'Miy Dim knowN intry om-, uml tlio wliolu Hcrm to nuiku one liirgi) trionilly t'uniily imrty. Aguin uml again I wuH inviti'il tato tlu^ir circli>, uml mmlr wolcoino to join in tlu'ir wulks, jtiiaiicH, rouilingx, anil I'vuning gnmi-M. 1 mention tliiH a.s om' of tin- luimlri'il iuNUint'i-H of tho conliality ami t'ricmlHliip with which truvullfrH from " tho uld country " (uh tiuy atlVctiotiatoly call KnglamI) aro rt'crivLil. if I coulil only huvi? Ntayril long enough in thono hotcLs 1 bhoulil huv«) muik', 1 am pirHUuilcil, many lifo-long fritniiH. Jiut aH 1 have iliHcovcri.il that on» may vainly try to [mint Hut'itcry or to make an auilit-nco picture it for thoiu- Hi'lvt'H, I will attomi»t no lU-Hcriplion of tht'Hi! watering plaui'H, hut read from my j'jurnal which 1 have already imntioued lu yuu, thu eutricH 1 made of a viititat TucIuuhuo to u SALMON HATCH INQ KSTADLIHIIMENT there. Ah you all know Canada ahoumls in nohlo rivor«, and in tlu ni Halmon waH plentiful ; hut by reckleua and untimely deHtructiou the lish had been so thinnud thi^t (tovernment has thought it wi>te to propagate them nrti- tlcially, and I tiiink you will bo intere.^tted in what I Haw near TadouHUC, where w once of the-^e .salmon hatcheries. |The lecturer proceeded to riad a detailed account of tho arrangements for bulmou hatching, ami followed tlio history of the hsh from the eg;,' to maturity. Hundreds of tliousands of salmon were iiatched there every year. Incidentally ho stated, on tho authority of tho curator of th.e establishment, that salmuu did uot produce good tggs tiU they attained the age of bcvcu ycara, but he added tiiut the conversation in wiaicU tiiib luct transpired wutt carried oil chietly in i'reuch, and hu bliuulii bo glud to bu intormed if he hiul been mistaJ(tu. Tliu citrutor had told him there would be no ditliculty iutruub^wrting iiUj re;^uated eggs or small hatched tish tu ijin^luud, that the Uauudian Ciovornment sold them, and ho (tUc uturator) would buperin- tciud thy tcan;sit and start the experiment, Tho lecturer •nuA. nofK* UN AMKKIfA* IP > Pf.ACM. t hottt (ie waa W*' in tbo anu.|iari waftrinj; pinto, H-Igiihuc, wluif l..|,j„y,.,l lift in tlu! muiuiior liotiU "UK, which wu« uUnont "VtM lUoflg thtMt. «|»orf.«. •'ntiiim ni-tMii to Ko f/i lat, occupying onu hirgu un.l .lining ut tho unnio " "tmnKMH Huon kiiuw mIh ; insomuch thut ut ui'l tlu) whulo Ni-t-ni t«) • Aguin and again I iin <'f tht'Ht' wati-ring whjoh I huv». alroa.ly of tt vi»itatTa.iou8uo ILI.SflMENT :>u>ul8 in nohle rivor§, I'Ut by rtokloHs omi )t'en so thinned timt I'l-opaKato tlii-ni arti- i'ii»f«'i| in wliat I Haw »' Hiihiion iuitchcricH. ailed account of tho HJul followed tlio Maturity. l{ujulre.U '•1 there every year. >nty of the curator d uot produce good yearb, but he added tuct transpired was lould be glud to bo llio curator had told l>orting im, regnated that the Canadian ator) would buperin- uent, Tho lecturer thitu^ht it v/ixH NiiipriMinu'i c<>itHi)|i>rink{ thiit tlii< ri{g<« lui^lif tliit-4 I mil) and rluMply Tm> loiivi'ytd to ^\^\n iouhtiy, that till' Siitth lairl ttlliir prDpriitorn of lUhiiiij did not intniduci' miliiiDii by thin im iiiih into their watirH. | Mr I'runci' tln'ti coiitiniied : I aucuinplinhutl uliil<< iit titin III t^lilniiuliiMtd u voyugo I !• niK M.\iil'KN.\Y, whioh in conHtdi ri'd to pri'Milit .hhiih* of tht> liumt wild uini Niiva^c rivir Hcem ly of the continent. It wum made widely known by the writer who no c liiuinin;,'ly ehronich d in "'rin* 'I'llliri ' till' doiii.;H ot flii' I'l ilK'C of Willis ill liJH ( 'illlildiail loui. If in till l.ii„'<'s liil)Ut;uy of the ,St. I,.iwriiice after tlie Ottawa, and Mows in a ilci |i, MiUiit, dark biown Ntreaiii Moine '"lOO inih'N. I followid it to iia Ita Hay, about 200 iiiiteM, in the Hteiiiiiliont, ,S,ij;iieiiiiy, which Ikin Nince been burnt. The nioHt HtrikiiiK I'lii t of this river (and it in very title; in at a point wheic itH biuikH break buck into a little bay, tlie two In'aillaiids of whii h are made by two ^^i^^antic, tlatfaced, limeHtoiif ilills, wiiicii rine Mheer, ainl indeed Hoiilewhiit li iiMiii;^ toi ward, 1,'>(X) feet hi'ili out, of the deep, dark, still and solemn Wiiteis wliich lie at their bas(>. 'I'lieHe piecipit es are appropriately named Cape Trinity and Tape Kternity. On tlie former, on a peak juttiiii,' tmt lii;,'li in mid ail and snii tor a coii^iderabie distance m both comiiijj up and ',i>>\n,.', down the .Sa^uenay, stands a lar^i' Htatue of the \'ii;;in Mary. As our vessel j-lided slowly before it, a little band of Canadian voyageurson l)oard went forward into the bow, and reverently, with bare heaiU, Bang in tmison a sweet hymn of jtiaiHe t>> thesaiTed Mother, and a prayer for her protection from the peiiln of tlu' Hea. The air was Min;,'ularly sweet and inelancholy, and they told nieit was 'w'OOy ears old, and was one of the hymns of the Jesuit, missionaries who tiiHt lalioureil amuiii^Ht the North .Viiieri- can Indians with llnir lives m their hands. I'nexpected, musical and reverential, and in harmony with tInsHolemnity and solitude of the place, it went straight to the heart, and tlu! scene has since often risen before me an one of the moHb characteristic and poetical of my tour. There are soino liundredh of these old i-'reiich airs linj^ering in the meinoricH of tho Canadians, and at thin moment an effort is beiin? made to collect ami jireserve them in a handsome volutue as our ancient ballads were treated by IJitsou and Percy. Our vo'/'i'it'iirs sang them in the caiiin after nightfall for two bourt), amidst the interest and upplause of everyone on board. Many of them abouiiiled in jokes and ludicrouH situations, others had choruses or refraina in which we could all join. They were all iu French. 20 nrnvM fiN AM I'll i« s. '\'\\>mt> fwiirMlniiH ltru«it(ltt nil* Im llir wok of tlir r>nii AmiiN'iiiiiitii iiit'i'tiiitfN, mill, rriiiriiitirf to Mniitiitil, 1 . li'iMli'ti tlii'iii iiumt uiliiiititly. Itiit 014 till II KiitvlitfiiiM, l'« ilCl'l'l Iwl t< Tlir m-nNO I'AHT «»K >IV tol I'. Tlii** I |irii|>iiMi> In iiiiitiiiiic mill tlitiHli ill u Mii.utiil | I'l'iul iM'\t Tili'Hility i>V(>iiiii;( ill lliiiiir rriiiiii'ltN nil l,iiki> >*Mi|ii mil' mill rlii' niiiiiliy mKuml 1' mill lli«> i'( liuioXrt ill iiiiiiiiiiiitiiiii<4 1)1' (iiiiiiilu ; (III Miiiiiliil mill itM t'iipiliil, W iiitni I .. ; mi llii' riiiiiitH; tlic Nott Aim lir.iii liiiliiiiiM lutiliiili^ IIS IT lilt III ; nli ( 'liit n^n, \\ iiHliiii; lull, iuiiiir y,>u^ ml n lli-i:tiiiiiH 1 . AiMi-rini, AiiH-iitiiiiiiKiiciiltiirc, Aintiicmi i-ntitU-N, Aiiu'riim liiiiui'.tlii'M, mill Aini'i'iiiiii Hiini'y, It tmu' iillVM, I |iii. |Mmi> til liiliclinii' Willi nil iillllilir III' llir lll'i* Nlniy ii| II Nill inaili' mitl mm i'i'>.-.liil innli, uitli vliutil 1 liut mi tny I'i'tiiP vuvii^)'. Willi ihio |iti>iiii'l.ltlMI'.) Ml .\i;\v, at |lii> il.nif of tlik> lutun , csi'ii'»<»".«l tli UiiUil.i uf tlu iiuiiiiijj tu .Ml'. I'l.iiici'. v-<«r^ i;) .»Lj \M»llh \, MllMMn,' lo .Mi.|,f,,.,| I I5"i» i.i. flair ioi»v|l«»Ji.ii' • 'I' M» I III r, '!i'I"lt in II •..m.ikI ),„|h , . ;• H.H |.|.,... It vvifin',, ''"•*"li.| M.ifrl, „,„| |{„,j,, -"• f"!!!.' r..lUn» \j„„,„„ ' ""••■'""ilr.Viiii.iii.,1 It ;;' < •"••i.lii : ni. ai„i,,»mI i'«'>i:..,ir|,iniK„,\\„^l,i„, ^•'••M'^-.lM.nll. ll.TfiMMHni "'»n.;.n,„.|,im. .\i,Hi-iuii •>. h hii.i. i,||„WH. I,,,., '•' lli.llf.. Hi,„y„f a Mil ;*l'"'n I lll.tnl, ,„.v IVt.l.h '"• 'iitiii,., m.mI uiiI, ,„„„^ """"iV Hit I, Ml.i.l, y,,;, " "i.i.nKnt fc..,,,! night, III) '"Inn, CNlU'Owwrtl J I,. >■ J W N \ M I. i: I • \ '♦ 1 I HKcoN'i) I i;i'r.'iti>»i'r Hnl, in tint KirrtnTH aitil MvichmitH' B»ll. Tliu AUilii'tiCK ovinofil Krfiit ititrrrnt in tlio fnctrt .ititl niiiiiioiifi niMiicc I, frt'qiuntly niipluuilin;} tliu Ipdtiirir. Tlii-i w iH isiH'citkllv tlio c tnit iiftiT tlic pHNM.itt)- ill wlii'-h III) rt'(!<>inmciii1)' 1 lui i'trort on tho pitrt of tlii^ rititHii fiiMiiir to iilitain fair piicex hy r^fniiiiiiii; from iitniKCcHHuilv (looiUiiR tho iniirki'tn tllr^l|^;!l II " ho^'-y" f.sir of riri'i;^ii cojnptt,if,iniii« tho account of my r«c«nt tour in Am< ri( I, I m;iy n'tn'nil you thiit in my firHt jmprr I ilrscribi'il my ruuto to Montxiil, nfi'md to various cxcur- nioni* on th(« Lower St. Lriwrcnco wliioh I nccompliHhfMl fpiin thftt citv, anil mtntioncti thut I r I'rairii'.s to tho Kocky MountaiiiH lu'foro I turned my face homewards. It in tu thi« .secouil part of my tour that I this evcnin^i invite your i.ttcTition. Pr o.> Norw ox iui-i,,, I rod i OTTAWA, merchant wbo^;??T".^°"^e Hotel at n^f J- twtnry families, ia '*■'«/« 'A. ''"''^' OK TKEE8. "It 'oZs'l """'"""My , "'«n fightiig f 3| ' .u,r ifc'^^r^^- This t merely the waste of "»«. valuable, but tbHt <^he cujt ,,ted fields faVf^« ornament, f-^IJ. leading to con' t Which may be of 'I Ottawa with » ^orty years, and ^^•"fy famil es in NOIE* OS A.MKHKA. L'.*? it, ftn;»rt of tho works, ami wliich by tlic courtesy of ]\Ir. 1']. 1'.. Eii;ly, tho l)ro|)rii;tor, I was permitted to t'xplorc. [Mr. I'ranco pro- ceeiliMl to read a hicid di «ciii)tion of tho works in fiuestion, in whioh fivo thousund tinih( r trf^oM aro cit up daily, tlio machinery hein^j eutin ly drivciu hy the power obtaintMl from thi^ Fill. Mi. Edily, tho jirojirietor of tho vast coji- (HTii, w.-nt t(» the iilico thirty-six years a^o with two dollars cipititl, Tiui lecturer mentioned among other interesting fact-^, wl;ich space will not allow us to repeat, that T>ry!int and IMny, tho En;^lish mateh maiiufacturorH. l»ay Mr. Eldy i'lOO a year each as royalty for a number of m.ichiuc3 of his patent which they u:ie iu their busiueas.] AMEIUCAN UAILWAT TRAVELLING. Wo reached Toronto (an Indian name 8i;,'nifying trees in the water) nfter a loni*, hot, mid dusty journey, whicli was howeviM' relieved by tlieir givins; us tea en mute. This waa arranged iu the ba;?'j;aii;e car, where we had a welcome and very respe'ctable ineal. The American system of each carriacje connectin:; and CBnimunicatin^^ with every other jiermict- il •,• amkkilA. tliL' Mpp'ail of gi'iieiiil lomniii:^, rcit'ticu uii'l ait ; wliiU; itM Iiiihi:i|( inuiililiiig " til.: riiivtiairy " i-', with t\\< i \ui])'ii)ii ot' II ii Villi I'liivt't'sity, tlif moMt iiiip()it;iiit (in th • Aiwtiii' iii C'lUiimiit. Its diiy .school iduc.itiuu is tli'iroij^hly will t;ariiiil nut. It is iioteworthy tliiit tho iinw.Hpiipt'tM of Toroirn art' nunu-'rout uhI ably oti'liiotecl. Wf all liavu siifii tliu "'rnoiilo (Jl.h.'" ami "Tnionto INIail" rinoti'.l with ii'Sj>i:ut ill tilt; Lmiiloii iiiuViJiinpir.-^. Thoir iihility ami i iili'i) ■ni.l''n'3<* ari! wiiU'ly iiilhuMifial niid recojjiiizi-il, and it in;iy h) a ilchatahli.' point wlatli'T tho excoUciico of tlm juTH li'TH li iH ilcvt'lo))! 'I tliu lity Ot till) eiu-vj^y ami iht' IL'ctn il churiiijtc T of tlu- nuuiicipality (lc!Velopi:d tho inijss. 1*1 I'oiilily both liuvc ;i ;ltd and re-acttd on Oiich otlior. From tl infniination 1 could gitlior I judgo that 'J'nroiito ini^Ut claim for it«ilf tlut tilK.' of tlio Athens of tho "\V> s'j. It u iii:uinj;ui.shril not o'lly hy iti nowspapi.T prt'ss, hiir, hy it< inti;llL'ctu;il activity in every fonn, by ita lar;,'i! issiifi of illus'ratod and oHicr i»eTii)(lii;al.=), and by its seri.il i.-*sui.'S .'iiid lopnnts of coinploto novels and sfc.nd. ml publica- tions. Amongst thi) iiuMvo authors so puhlisluMl won^ vory clovfr and rc.idahh' b (oks by Ai^ncd I'liMning, Kliz* Dnpiiy, K. 1*. K<»e and Ed;.'ar Fawcett;, niiinea heretoforo ((iiiti- unknown to nio. I obsirved also clu'tp icjiriMts of two uf tho wiiilcs ot your t,i!i'ntcd townswomau Mra. Herbert ISIiitin, but, w.i.s lionesc euouijh not to buy tho pirated t'diuons. I i # NI.\(;AKA I'ALl.H. Toronto is situate on tho edjjo of Lake Ontario, and by ti'n.ssing th It l.iko one easily reaches laiwistown and tho Falls of >;i.it;:ira. I adopted that vouto and visited every point of inteiest an 1 vantavjo (both on tho Canadi.iu and Aincricai'. sid' >) wliieh are ufiually seen by travellers. K is teniiitiTii; to enlar^M; upi'i th'^ tliem'^ ; bub the limits of my pap'.'r forbid this, and brsidt-a I will frankly iicknowledgo that thou'^i I hail ]>reviously read fifty descriptions of the Falls by some of our most eminent writers, I had failed in obtitining any such idea eitht.'rof their {;;e"2;raphical feature's or their intrinsic grandeur as I obtained by a few hours actual contemplation. I cannot hope to succeed where so great men have failed. It will sulKce here then to remind you tiiat tho Niagara River is the overtlow of Lake Erie, rusiiing to form the Lake of Ontario by a course of 3(! miles. Fourteen miles of this distance are below the Falls, and ten of tht se lasl, are navi:^able, and form a lovely approach to this W'irid'r of nature. In tho remaining four, to the foot of the falls, the river is a continuous chain of rapids and whirlpools, in which Webb lost his life. I saw his wift; selling photoi,'raphs on tho spot. Above the falls the river com-.'S rushing, tossin;^, tumbling down the valley 4\ IS -Ml •7 4 Norrcs ov amiciiica. vrith a width, an it appeared to me, nt about hit milei, and I am not sure l)ut that this part o( the noene ia moro im- prttHNive and instinct with resiRtleos might than the Falls theniHelves. IIr)wev6r this may be, na tho groen Kivt-r in its immense foam-oappeil vohuno oomes tearing down the valley it meots and emhraces Goat's Island — an oval tree- covered islet with a circumference of about three miles. This parts the stream, and one portion gops to the left and takes its leap over the American Falls with a width of 1,200 feet, and an average height of KJO feet ; the other and larger portion forms the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall, with u width of 2,400 feet and a height of 154 feet. The two falls are a short quarter of a mile apart, but can always be combinated into one picture. The Canadian fall has a wider face, the larger quantity of water, the more varied and picture8(iue surroundings. But both are magnificent spectacles, glorified by constant irises, and as it is calou- lated that more xhan a million tons of water are pre- cipitated into the seething abysses every hour, it goea without saying that the scene is one of overpowering sublimity. The thunder, the roar, the rush, the immense body and ponderosity of water, the continuity and fulness of its flow, the beautiful greenness of its colour, the billow- ing whiteness of its heaven-filling spray can disappoint not the roost highly wrought expectations. Yet perhaps Niagara will, after all, not be fully realised unless the visitor nerves himself as I did to descend into what is called "The Cave of the Winds." Divesting one- self of every particle of one's own dress, and clothed in a loose suit of flannel, one can follow a guide below and behind a portion of the American Fall ; then emerging by a frail gallery into mid-stream can creep and struggle over slippery and gigantic rocks across the very face of the fall, at com- paratively few yards from it. In one sense this is a dis- appointing transit, for during the whole expedition, so thick and blinding is the enveloping spray that one does not get even a transient glimpse of the cataract, although it thundered in one's ears so near that we could with difficulty hear the screaming directions of our guide. But in every ether respect it surpasses description or imagination. For the passage is through a tossing cloud of spray, and amid a storm of drops that hit you like peas right and left, and back and fore, and up and down, and round and behind, so that in a few seconds you are streaming like a River God, and can barely see further before you than a yard. And while this goes on, and you are clutching the slight and slippery hand rail as for dear life, suddenly the air (rushing in, I suppose, to supply that beaten out by the headlong cataract) comes upon you in the guise of a violent spiral wind ; and f U «s» NOTE^ OS AJirKlCA. 37 ■, And re im- Falls vcr in "'ii the [ troe* mi leg. ffcanr! f 1,200 3r and with e two fty« he wider (1 and , ♦ ififient calcu- i> 3 pre- <■ oomoB too liko the dropu, from all sidns at oncp, m if bnnt to tak«! yi'U off your fi<;t, nu<\ hh a dead leaf, it •'- you \\p ititu iinirifJiHity. I iiovcr exp'ritnct'il, ami I HUiip .He never bhiill it>{«in ex[)orit'iict', iuiythiiif{ so overijowfriti^ and over- whiliniii^. I currioil from thort', and Hhall carry to my j;ravt', tiie mrmory of that unexampled half-hour, and— u near frwin a wound I got theroon my li^jht great toe ! THE LAKEH. Kt'turtiing to Toronto, I rejoined tho party who were goini; to the Jiicky MountaitiH, and by a long and tedioua journey a'TOHH tho provnico of Ontario reached Owen Sound. This in a port in (Georgian Buy, on Lake Huron. Thence hy a 'arge and Clyde-built steel steamer we Bailed through Lake Huron, anil through the connecting Channel of Sault St. Marie, and ho reached Lake Superior. On the liaiik» of tho Island of Manitoulin, and in approach- ing the Kiver St. Mario, where several pretty itilanda are HCiittered. and in tho Kiver St. Marie itself, which f ^a a course of 00 miles and is the water link between j cwo lakes, we found some tint scenery. Tho Rapids at tho Sault are also grand. But during a large portion of these voyages we w<;re out of sight of land. In fact we were traversing immense inland seas. Huron is 260 miles long an(]h havitiK to hn ciirrit'd nix hutidrt'il mili'H. Kcfcriiny ti» ndij^ion, bn Hiiid tho Church of Knuliiud tniido U>hm pro({rt"ii(i(Ht; til'' IiiiliiiiiH .iii<] Itii tt'ii|)|)< iH. A v>iy iiitcrc'Htiii).; I'J.'.liiliitinii (it liical priiluctM. ';iiiiii, \» '^ctulilt •<, wi uilx, skiix. Iiitliaii nnioH, ({(>()li<;^iuitl H^H.-ciriiciM, Ac , wan (i|M't) in Jviitix Mall wiiilc wu ut'iti till ii>, una ^avc lit a i^odil iiiHi}{ht into f In- jdoiluutivf jd.wcr of tli" .loiiutry. Soiric cultlMt-c aiiil otluT vi';;t'tal>l('H ami sniiit' oats were liner tlian 1 rciin tiilii i to hiivf Hrcn at any wliow in Knj{laiiil. Tin' Htrti'tsaii' lit hy • k'Ctilcity, aii'l are crosHiil by n inultitud<' of tclct^r.iith ninl tflppliune wirt.'H. Tlio iiso of tin? latttT i.s ;;iiatly more coniinoii tlian in lln^rland, and tln> comfort of (l«'S|)atclii|i;{ your int'HMi','!' and wailing' your rijtly and n joiidn^ npfiu that, anil conchnlinu: t1ii> Ihisiikhs at once, which 1 wa.s alilo to do Hcv( r;il liiiM's iluriii!: my travi'ln, mad" nic ft rl it iiiorn than cvt r a siriouM ini^tortuni' and iiimlranci! to I'in^^land that our pi'st-oihcn (usually ^*o fiili^hf' md and pro;;rc.s.si\r) uhould l'>ok upon thu t( hphoin' hh a dan^ciuuH rival to their tuK'graph, though it undmbti'dly in ho. vSf TO TIIK 110CKIK3. "NVo now .struck o(F into the compnrativi-ly unknoAvn \otth-Wrst, and tin' fust town vo nacliid was l'(;rta},'<' la, I'raiiie. It can hardly he s:iid to hnvo rxistcil tliicf yours. Y»'t it has now a papulation of .'J,OUO, with churclu h, towu hall, liiscuit factory, lai^i- tlcur mills, and a lire hri^ado Htation, and is rapidly incicasin;^. It is favoured l>y a viry rich Mack loamy «oil, and is thn centre of tho gnat wheat- growing jdains of IManitoha. Situat'j within cany reach of Winnipeg, and at the junction of the Miinitoha :uiil North- Western llailwiiy with the (!anadi:ui-]'acihc, it preHt nt.-i many attractions to an inteudiiii} emi[^iant. I shall sitcak of it again. Tassin!? Carberry we came to Brandon, a town of tho fd'.u and chanicter of I'ortage, created like it by the Uanadiiin-l'aoilic TJne, and helped by bein^; lueatcd at its crossing of the areat and tiadt-carrying rivvr Assiniboiue. Indian Head, 81 li miles west I if \V'i)ini[)i{,', and the site of tho "r.ellFarm ;■' Ivegina, with its mounted police barracks ; and Calgarry, KV.) miles beyond AN innipt s^, and the dis- tributing point for the great cuitle ranches of the W'St, followed in succession, all with points of interest and promise, and we finally reached (Stephen and LagKaii (about 1,000 miles), being the summit level of the Ixockien, and where the lino begins to descend tov/ards thu Pacitic (3cean. In two letters which I wrote from the Kockies, am' which (as they apjieand in tho Ercgliam Journal) were jimbably s^en by most of those whom I now have tlie Ijleasv.r'i of addvesbing. I gave a biicf dtsciiption of tht 1 t m NOTM OS AMKUIiA. ■uMImp find iitrikinf? ncenfry of ttipno moutifnlnn, nw\ h (Ictikilt'd report uf tliu fHrmiiit( in tlif Kruitt pluin cnmitiy that lii'B htlow tliern, hh typifUd l»y tlio coiii.jjiiiwii.jj »>p»'>*»* tioim of th" *' I?oll Farm," iim'I ^)y tlu! cuttlt'-fotiliiiK furMiH ill till- ({riuHy (liHtriotN about (vlaiiHtoiKt aiitl \Vt>Htl)i)Uiiii>, in AIuitit()i)a. I will nut, then, ifpfnt thcMu dt'tuilH, tlioii^h I conniiltr th, and on tlio opening that Cunaihi and thu Htatus |iroai-nt to the Engliub emigrant. Moautirao wo may say n few words on THE rRAIHIK itself, and od its original inbabitauts. We have all heard of the Trairio. The 1,000 milos journey above adverted to was hirgely p.iHsing tliroiixh in. I 'vas anxious to see what I had ho often rusid and heard of, and you may be interested in having my di'Hcription. Tli« Prairie, then, ditfered from my expectation iu three points. First I had alwnys understood the prairie grass to be a long waving reed-like a;ras8 some 2-feet liigh. There is soukj grass of this cbaracti^r, but it is found only in swampy places. As a rule it is comparatively short, say four to six inches high, and a great deal of it shorter than that. It in more like the brown commons of Dartmoor or Cumberland, or Scotland, where the heather is not growing. I do not at all mean our green close turf that you find say on Dt tford Common or Cleove Hill. Our English grass hardly exists in Canada, but it is a brown, wiry, benty grass. This extends in a vast plain far as the eye can see. Often tirat s there is not a bush, a tree, a hollow, a rock ; just one limitless plain over which the blue sky bends, and at the far edge of which it fall:^, protecting round, as do the heave'-8 at sea. On such a plain the whitening bkuU and bones uf a dead buffalo are an object that at once catches and attracts the eye simply because it rises so above the dead level, and a farm building or a corn rick arrests the attention at tea miles distance. I can conceive nothing mure depressing and monotonous than living in such a flat, and day after day seeing r.either shadow or variety, nor hearing flutter of leaf or 3oug of bird, for the prairie has only a few hawKs, and in parts wild duck. Again it dilFercd from my expectations in having so comparatively few flowers. The late autumn at which I came may have had something to do with this. But one has read the poetical and florid descriptions of American writers, and obtained the idea that there was on the prairie a wealth and profusion of flowers that was hardly to be met with any where else. I cannot think tbis NOTK.'^ UN AJU.Kii ,\. .11 « to ho a truo «ieHcriplii)n, though ••ornu of Mm pr.tirii! ruMR (whioli Hit! like (Xii <1itK K'N'n, ti>'l tlit'ii^li W'K li (Kititiiint of uur )iurty wHi lit rvt'iy Htop of tiiu Uaiit bu!«y in o WKuiiitK a^iticiintiia f(ii liiii lioitUH biccum. lUil tliu tliiid <1iflfrunci> wn% in iti« favour. I rinunl 'lie pniiiii* tiuich bfltir liKriniiltniiil liunl tlmn I iinticiiiiitiil. hlii'i'p iii
  • ■*>*« '">^ c.ittl ' d'l wt'U < n it, uml itH ailiiptal)ility fur tlii> piou^li MuiitunHiMialt n)y cxitccru- tiotiM. TiiM Hull, AH I tiixoiitiud in my luttLiH to tbo Jiirxft'im .liiiirnul, it li liuti lil.iuk inouM, mixed v,\\.\\ ii {Intt ■iiiiii, Hii>rti. Tiitt It-vcd chaiuotor of tliu pi tin mid tliu iitiMttnon of roots and utonvH c.tUHu it to pluugli cawily, ami tliu friablu imtuiu of tho nuil y> t furthur UMHisrs tho farmt r, mu that out; ImrHu can lu-rforin many a^riculturul opuratiuuH, unU two uulUou Ivx tliti plough, 1 HuppuHu, iu all parlH. TbiH will bo tho fitting placu to intruduut' my m n 1 CONCLUSIONS OX AMERICAN AORICUMUUK, Rnd on tlie opening tliat ccmtinnnt olFors to the intending t migrant. Thoro are a f«w pioliiniiiiiiy remarks to hu mttflo. "Mixed fanning" — that is, the union of corn- growing and CHttle-raising (»r dairying — in not UKual. Indted, thiro are only certain limited ak an in whiuli ir, iit poNHihIo. TheNO are found where Hound corn htnd ih mixed wirh HWKinp, and where Ci>n'4t'(iu< ucly the long, tioivy piauie gratis, which outs from eight to twelve ton to tho aore, in to be obrained without irrigation or much labour. •Such areas are to be bought around Manitoba Lake and in AUierta. 'Jattle-raiichiiig, again, wo may put out of con- si('t'rati'n. It is found l)y experience tiiat, these nuicheH oidy succeed well wheris tlieie are from .'»0,000 to lO'J OC^ acies of griiH*', or even moie, for the c.ittle to roam over, and whtre the cuttlM are equally numbered by thousandH, and tlie adventure ia conducted by a joint stock oonip.iny. Once more, the making of butter, and the growing of barley, oats, anil hay, are of small imiiortance, and can only lie wisely undertiiken for jKisoniil usi- ani4 conwuinp- tiou, not for Hale. To mysuipiise, I rsaw huge stacks of bay left to rot comparatively near to railway st.itions, and heard of other instancis where it was coniprehseil anil us d to build tttables and sheds rathtr than be at'solu'ely wasted. Ik therefore follows that we are to-ni^ht in i tfi et shut up to the consideration of the prodts to bu made out ot a, curn-groiving farm. :v2 N'>* f.ii'iiiiii;{ "if Atiuiict* U pMor, j-liwi hl.v. nri'l Ht:»rvii| \>y till) wiitit "f htiildiiiHN nit)l cn|)intl. Tli« kmuU In ilntr, till) wht'itt |il'iiit in Hli'irt ill till) Ntiiov, Mtniitl ill ttm )i) 'III ami poor in (Mnt, 1 li<- iivi riii^ii wli. ,it I'rop nf Alii"il'':t, lllt:ltiilili;; < 'iiIHkIii, I tim |m'IhU.Ii||')|, IH lint iiWiiVi ',\ ijiruti IN, iti-'Jt I>iihIu'Ih t'l till.' anrii- in tin* dM NtiitiN it in iniiuli Icnm, H.iy ni'nriT 12 IiunIu'In tu tbti iicn*. Thii ('iii|i U k"( vny easily. Thuru irt no iiiaiiuro c^tttnl mt, no wi'illii^ iinploy' i|. Till' ixpi'iitii', thi'n'f<»ii«, in Httiotly ooiiiliii'il to tlm pliiii^'liiii'^, Ni't iliiii{, hill vt'Ktiti^, thnitliiiit;, mill innrkutiup;. I nimlo nia>iy i'tii|iiitii n uNu fvpi'iisi'H, nml nH nn avcniK" I foiiii'l tlnit tlii> ixpciiniH nf pl<»ii;(liiti;; miiiI hi* liiii;^ mi^Iit )i«' put at 7 iIoIIium iiti acit> ; nf Itiirv' Ntiii.; ami tlit«'sliiiiL( (iiicludiiiK liin) of iniictiiii)) nt about 2 ilolliiN till acri« ; ami that tiixiH, wi ilolliits, Nay \'A or t I (lull irH in thi> whole, I ooiiniiloi' thi.H < Htiiimto \i\v. Fiirtlirr, I foiml that tho American iiml (anailian f.irrni r wislitMl to considi r th(> iioi- inal Of ppip'r ptio" of whiMt to lt> a ilollur tho hiiMlu 1. TliiH nil hisciopof IM hii Iu'Ih pi-r acre would give him, of Cdiiis.', '2\ ilollaiM, mill ili'iliictiii!? «'xpi'iiH('H, It iIollarH, Would Iravc liiin Icmi thim liulf as piolit. or Hay X'2 nn iicro. Tliix pii-MUppoKiH tliiit hu ilovK p;i'ow 124 husheU nn acru. A niMo with twu or thri') hundred acres iti wlieat, living in a wildi iiieHM, ami having no oxpeii^;ive tasteH or cvoii oppor- tuiiify I'f ^pelldill,^' nuiiiey, would couHider hlm-tlf, with tluH profit, very well oil', and rt;i.son:il)ly so. JSut ilnriiig the l;i^t year or two a chnii^o liiiH conio over the scene, which \h eipiiilly worthy of the Heriuus notlou nf the Mnnlinh landowner, the KiinliJih farmer, and the itifeiidint,' emigrant. The dollar jier husliol is no longer got hy the American or CanadiaH farmer for his wheat. I Hpokn to Home few |)ro- ducers, who were emrKetie find (iiily, ami who had diHpoHod of their wlieat to local niiUern, while the last year's stock had run out and this year's ])roduce had not come in, nnd these got .S."» cents or SO cents the huKhel. I'ut I Bpoke to others who were later, and who could not get (iO cents, and bf'fore I left men were cemplaiiiing that they were oll'ered r»0 cents, and that tho markets had unfairly and persistently been forced down, Now growers in Canada are very largely in the hands of a single dealer. They mu.st deliver nt tho one given station which is nearest to thein on the railway. There the buyer is one person, who owns the elevator, or grain store. To him they are virtinilly confined, and I am assured that the corn nowsidd in England at .'{2s. and '.V,]a. the (|uarteriH corn that has brenbought,undercircuinHtance8 I have described at half a dollar the bushel in Canada and the grain states of America. iJut this means that tho ON AMKHUrA. ;(j ffirmor, rvcn on my oxtrft fAvniiriiMA NupiKwition* of liU'^it urop iiNil low oiit,(<*iiit(«, ia Mclliiitr at jtc hn ;4tiro of NtiitUtioM ; Ixit I wnt told tito Airiciic.iii farirn'm Inivo fouml thit IIiq ^^.on^) ii not worth tlin ciiiir lurKo ntnin fiirniit lit I'ltuutn and Minnt'Notii L'itlinr uhandom-d, or whirn uiiprincipli'd Npt'ouiatorN nr«t tryinK to taki) in unwary rmi^rantM hy Ncdling to tiii'tn lcuIiifor had ht-atun hin ncii^liiujurrt down to. All a^ioi d that no ctMitn a hunliel for wh*at would not piiy thu in- dividual mid Hinall farrn<>r<<, whati'Vur might tiutho cam; with lar^o coinpaiiiuH like thu iitdl lro aro throo ntluT poiiit4 which hear (ui the future of tho price of wheat in Kn^jlund. Th< y arc : 1. That almoHf. every farmer I Npoko with, who ha 1 boon six or Hevcn ye.tfH in thu country, >ii;rt.-nd that tho laud would not no on for evir growing whiat without inainno. They reforrod to th«,' Hhort hoiul and ooinparativt ly mihuU yield jxir aero of American wheat:, aH comparetl with our KiikHhIi produce, nH evidence of thiH, and Htatod that tlii-y could year by year sec tho return becominK' Iohh, and tlio land, ati it woro, mutely appt aling to bo feci. It ii only natural and what wo might expect. iJut as I heard « von (Janadi.in prufoHaurs in an agricultural ollogo give di;<- metrically oppuKite teaching, and ah thoy are (|uutod in the hand-boiikH diHtributed to emigrantH, I deem it wiuuto refer to the witnoHH given to me. 2. Squitoh and other weeds are beginning to grow, and these Hame experienced farmerrt told me the time was raindly approaching wht^n hoeing and weeding would be a necchsary part of spring fanning. Others contemplated the loss of o, crop. Their idea was to plough in tho weeds in spring, atu:i M NOTM ON .\MKRI(,\. Hiiro f«ltnw thrnu){|i tlin ytrot from our own tungtltfiH'il t<\|ifri«'iico. Thn I'ratrU* ronttiln* nothinc hut Aiiiiunl w«'«>iIh MMit ifrnuN ; th(>i«, ttirnfU\ turf, thrro will Ik; rotnpArKtivdy no wvimU nnd iittlo IxH'inK n <|uiri''^lf till' land that in lor mdc it is tlu-ir iiiNMfMt to M.dl in order to i;«'t intt|i'r»« Mild to iTffttt* tr.illic. 'ill* y now nirry wlirat at iidictiloiiNiy low fu-i^ht. WhrttiiT tltiit clitap carrinKW will continuo whon they hnve lold their land in h pruhlttm, And in for th(> utnigrnntii' coniiidcration ; but it it a diatnnt oil)'. And now I put u ih>tliMfAlli'N I woiiM Niiy that I think if n miin will work aa htiiil, apotiil na litttt>, uikI di'iiy hiii)Ni>|f »n inuuh in Hiit;luiitl km in Amorioa, ht< will do lu well hii hnrt*, uiid thiU int'it will not livo iiml work iiml pruotico Mulf->lt*tiiiil um thny «lu ahroati, iiml tkiuk it no Nhiitnu to «|o, Tim fiiiinur U thorn in hi* ahirt wli'ttvi-M uml hin htnivy liuotM all iluy loni( working with hi* men, livinx wilh Iiih nu-n, (■iitint< with hin in«>n, Nlct'ping in tho mitno hotiitu ; with no wim*, nntry, and of tho IdackNinith'H oriift, ahio to turn hiH hand to anything, and t<> maktt the hcHt of tivory* thint(. cNpuciiilly if hu hua hiilfii-do/fu Htiilwurt aunN, will Maurudly do hectcr than ho W(»Nld do with all hi* undi'avuura in KtiKlrnd, imd would earn for hitnatdf uii tniplu compfttunctt, and ho likely to livo to Mt>o thoHo nouh mun of mark nnd poaition. And u niun who oould ^^^> out with from XI, 000 to jL'2,000 of avttilahh< capital would 1>rohal)ly do moro with it by far than ho couhl do in Cnt{land, aitd (ind that it would Hparo him a ^ood thai of thu toil I havu akt^tohod out fir hi huH ontcr«' ho can finally reafc himaidf with thu platuau of oomputunuo uohitived. If I waa aakod WHERE THE EMIf;»ANTH SHOULlJ GO, I ahould reply to Canada rathnr than to tho Tnitod Statoa, and give a littlo tnoro fur your !iind, an'l ho m-ar civilization, rather than get a cheap nmut and he haniHlied into the wilderneas. Portage la I'rairio atruck mn as hiiin;^ the locality that on the wholn picHunted mo-st udvantuj^eH. But tho diatrict around (Uadatonu has points of ^reht weight in Ita favour, which, howovcr, I cannot (j[o into hortv I have diaouaaed thia part of my jiaper at Homc h-nj^th, for f weut to Amcrioa to look into it, and took lauuL t/'cu^lo «'« % NOTKft ON AM EUU A. tho Huhjt'cfc. BosidoH, at this time, ovory siniiU contrihu- tioa of iiiformatiou upuii it (luul I do not iiretoii(l that this |iiip >' is inoro than a siniill contiibutiun) ia luuful to tke Kn^linh landowner unci fuiincr, Aa to THK NATIVK INHAIUTANTS OP THE PR^IRIR, they were the Noitli American Indians with whom Cooper's novels m;ide us ho familiar. Less than twenty years ago they roamed undis])uted masters of these plains, and any white uiim went the journey I now ho easily and rapidly ucoompllshcd in an ox wagon, tediously toilinR over tho plains with his life in his hands. Our Government, so to 8i)e;ik, huught up their rights from these Indians hy a series of treaties — ten I think in all. By these conventions certain lands which are called '* the reserves" were set av)art for them. Hero they may live, and hunt and multiply, tut as a fact game gets very scarce and live on it they cannot. This was foreseen, and Government umlertook to provide them with rations and headmoney. Every Indian is therefore registered. Ofiicers are appointed at stated places and intervals, and to these officers messengers from the Indiana come and take back to each settlement so much a head pt-r mouth per man of money, blankets, tobacco, and ceitaiu other things. It is a most serious offence to sell iutoxicating liijuor to an Indian, and a mounted police- force findt. one of its cliief duties in seeing that this law is uot iufiii'gc'd, Govtrnnient has, of course, been most stiiot and punctual in cariying out its engagements, and tiie Indiaus havu stuck faithfully to their bargain, some- times under trying circumstances of famine, and are now becoming a contented and peaceful race, though they still hate hard work, and very few c)f them do even a little hubbaudry. I saw several Indians who had in their day, and not so long ago, scalped men ; and after a fashion (for he spoke little English) talked with Crowfoot, one of their great chiefs, and orought home with me the end of one of his long greasy black elf locks, and acquired a brass bracelet at ten limes its worth from the arm ot" his chief squaw, a by no means enticing individual, I saw Indians of tive different racis, and they differ much from each other in personal ai>peaiancc. Some are large, well-grown men, with fine aquiline noses, and a free and fearless carriage. But other tribes a:'e shorter and with snub noses and broad flat li|is ; yet nearly all with a dark brown and rather almond-sha[)od eye, I had opportunity on three or four occasions to see them in their tents and to creep inside them. Tlity are circular, like thode of the Laplanders ; the fire is made on the earth in tht centre, and the smoke finds ira w .y out at the tup. The ludiaus, men, women atid NUiK.S O.N A.MKKICA. 37 cluMi'on, Ito arountl thorn head to Iu'hIs, with two or thruo ilrt^-* ill l)«twct'ii. Tile lual liiili;iii wij^wain is miidi! of witlo stripH of birclj haik clovi-rly pinru'd tofjcther with wooden hkowi r.s, ftud wrai»i»i;d round hij^h pr)l('H raised in a very conical form. Tiny nnilio haskuts, cradles, their canoes, &o., out of tlio biuk of the same tree. Hut the " noblo savai^ij " in htooining sophistioated. We saw few of these veritalde ami juitiiiuo huts. They have found out tliat our Htout anil (doth is nmre ea.'jily transported from place to place, nnne easily aitiead and better keeps out the rain, Oonsequently most of them now use sail cloth. The women paint their faces, particularly on the cheek bones and under their eyes, with red oohre in very coarse fashion ; and also the line of parting of the hair down the skull, which has a Bingularelfect. They all wear blankets, some grey, but mostly scarlet or other gaudy colour. They lling the blanket over the shoulder and wrap it round the breast with somewhat of a Spani.sh and grand air, not witliout digHity. As a rule, however, there is little enough of either dignity or cleanli- ne.«!a about them. Woman and man alike wear trousers and long hair, so that it was frequently a matter of doubt and discussion with us whether a given individual was a young man or a woman. The women ride astride on horse- back, which increased the dilHcuUy of deciding correctly. They all seem to possess horses, to ride well, and to be fond of it. And they look well, too, careering across the plain with hair and blanket flowing behind them. On one occa- sion an effort wiis made to collect a goodly troop for our inspection, and they came riding in from all directions got up in their war i)aint. The chief officers ot Crowfoot were clad in smart but absurd costumes, one sporting a scarlet coat, and his bridle rein being decorated with depending tails of horses. They do not seem to use carts, but a curious arrangement of two long sticks, say twenty feet long, tied on each side the horse and dragging on the ground behind him. On this they carry their children tightly strapt. But they also fasten rather heavy burilens. Some of our party bought their ear-rings from their ears, their moccasins from their feet, bracelets from their arms, and their necklaces made of beads or the teeth of bears. The medicine bags acd tobacco pouches worked with beads were also coveted and obtained. One gentleman was so fortunate as to secure a formidable war club, consisting of a heavy polished egg-shaped stone, fastened with sinews of the buffalo to the end of a stiff cane, the handle being decorated with three scalps and feathers. They are very particular and jealous as to allowing their braves to wear or display scalps, and no one can carry them who has not him- self secured them by the murder, or slaughter in battle, of his cucmici}. 88 NOTKM ON AMERICA. JOUUNEY HOME. And now having rccrossed the Prairio to Winnipeg, I passed into Buutbern Manitoba, and iitNicho rc-cnturcd thu United States, and the province of Dacota— another Hmit- less corn-growing phiin. My journey thenceforward was through parts better known, and can therefore be rapidly dismiMsed. For following the rail by Fargo and Minneapolis, I struck the Valley of the Missiasipi and the city of SSt. Paul, and so on by the picturesque route of Milwaukee to Chicago. There one saw palatial hotels, grand shops, un- ciiualled public buildings, boulevards that rival those of Paris, a cooinQerce-bearing river and lake, half-a-dozeii parks, and (what they seem to be more proud of than any- thing else) the stock yards, covering acres of ground, and the cattle shooting, pig slaughtering and pork-])reparing establishment of Armour and Co., where some r),000 animals a day are dep.patched, cut up, and packed, and above 3,000 workmen employed. Passing thence through Ohio and Virginia I crossed the Alleghany Mountains by a wonderfully engineered line that seemed to be winding along the top of such bills as Matlock or Killiecrankie, and giving one startling glimpses into their watered valleys, some 800 feet below. I spent two days in their midst at a sum- mer resort called Deer Park, and then, traversing the pic- turesque scenery of Harper's Ferry and many of the most hardly contested battle fields of the war of the secession, reached Washington. Of course, one visited there the White House, the Capitol, the museums, and the art gal- leries, and I made a pleasant excursicm up the Potomac River to Mount Vernon, the estate of Washington, now bought by and preserved for the nation, where his house is still kept much in the state in which he used it. There I saw the very bed he died in, and the tomb in which he is buried with his wife. It is the pilgrimage shrine of America. Then I went on to Baltimore, and to Philadelphia, with its many noble buildings, unequalled park, Indepen- dence Hall, and the grave of Benjamin Franklin and his wife, and thence to Boston, with its many and interesting memories, its Bunker's Hill, its Common, its State House, Chestnut-street, and Museum. Boston in many respects is to an Englishman one of the most enjoy- able cities of the Union. Nor did I fail to visit Cambridge and its well known Harvard University, with grand halls, schools ami chapel, and theMount Auburn Cemetery with the tombs of Longfellow, of Governor Winthrop, John Adams, and many others. A pretty country, and an express train, which they claim to be faster than any in England, brought rae back to New York, from which I had started. There joining the same ship, the America, in which I had come out, she brought mc safely back to Liverpool in somo houri Snll:-* ii\ AMKKK A. 3i> jinilor th« wof'k, tho wliol" jmiinpy hnvin* been nccom* pli.shuil withimt any acc'uUiit, or illiit'.>H, ur loss of lut or unnoyanuu of uny kind wlmtuver. And now '«''! A KKW (;knkual woiins and I will close this inpor. I would say then that thcro is no ly to increase and not diminish. The greater rapidity of steam voyages, the greater volume of trade between England and America, the greater influx of our literature, the greater interchange of pulpita, and the greater number of English tourists and better class settlers that every year brings with it, all mean and all tend to secure a more just mutual appreciation, moro social and business connections. Thirty, probably twenty, years, will see the two countries so knit together that war will be suicidal and almost impious. Moreover, I persuade myself that I saw advances towards free trade in America, and that the day is not so very far distant in which it will be accepted. Mr. Cleveland's leanings as compared with J NOTES ON A.MKItrCA. 41 Mr, Blrtino'a iiry ctirtninly in that direction. And it may he Biiid bruiiillv thiit tho Huutliorn and wuHtern, in a word tlie agricultural states, all turn towards it. They are i.hruwd •■nough to perceive that the prottctive tariff levied on foreign goods only operates to put mont'y into the pockets of the manufacturers of the eastern statis, and causes those inanufiicturers to produce a worse iirticlo than they else would do, because by reason of prohibitory duties they can sell a poor article ; the better foreign one being comparatively shut out. They see, too, that the duties are not required by the financial necessities of their Govern- ment, and that such English and Euro])ean articles as they must have are enhanced in price without any necessity whatever. In a word the agricultural interest does not see why it should be sacrificed to the manufacturing, and the exact converse and contrast of the free trade struggle which went on in England some forty years since, seems to me just about to commence in the United States with augury of a similar victorious result. This subject is connected with THE POLITICS OK AMERICA. The voters are divided, as we all know, into Kepublioana and Democrats. I asked twenty people what was the difforenco between them, for I had never been able to understand it in England. I did not get much enlighten- ment on the spot. When all was said it appeared to resolve itself into the explanation that the one party was in, and wanted to keep so ; the other was out, and wanted to be in. At the time of the secession the difference was more marked ; in fact, there was then a sharp and dividing question between them. The Democrats wished to secede and have a separate state ; the llepub- licans, on the other hand, denied this liberty of secession to the separate states, and fought, as we all know, for one united community. The Southerners having given up their dream, this cause of division no longer exists ; and it almost appears as if the nation were waiting for some great question to arise on which there shall be a necessity and reason for men to take sides and become active politicians. It is not impossible that free tro le may be that coming question. Meantime I take it that the Kepublicans would call themselves the more constitutional and conservative portion of the country ; and the newly- elected president, Mr. Cleveland, and his Democrats consider themselves more liberal and progressive. 42 NOTKf* ON AMKIirCA. ThiH prcRldentiul coiitost waa fought cut, while I wah in tliti StiitoH, with the itriiitcNt bitteiiii .h aiul the inoNt l)i()fuHi! t'xpundituro. The cuminitttic-rooms, the flags, the advertiHiMncntH, tho telcgmtna, the ino<;tiriK'Hi tiie uniforrnH, the hiiiidH, th(f toichiiglit and othiT proocHNiunN, muHt have o<»Ht fiil.uloiiH sutna on each side. How muck went in uvin more duuhtful waya ic ia hard to intHgine. I fear the political i)alrn is far from clean there. Certainly tlin moat iiitl'ii'iitial and rbapectable newapapcra of the country rnnke the moat aerioua charj^ea againat their pulilio men and publio bodit^a. It would aei m aa if the Hoata of justice themaolvta wore ovt rawed or bought, and that in the Army and Navy departments the Governmental Honrda and the Municipal bodica prculatinn and corruption abound. That thia ia thu oano in New York ia beyond diaputo. How far thia Borioua and deplorable condition of things ia general in other citica ia more doubtful. I truht it does not widely exi.it. I>ut I confeas that in connection with our extended Frfinchise I looked upon it with the graveat anxiety. Yet I found twoaouroeaof comfort. The firbt was the asHsurance that the votera were much more illiterate than I had aupposed. I went to America thinking it a fully educiiteil country, where every man could read and write. It ia very much the revi r.so. The eiifranchiaed negroes and the older and iicwer Irisli and other emigranta a:'e largely ignorant of tiieso elementary accompliahmenta, and thia )f,'in>raiice permitu them to be the eaay dupea and toida of the profeaaional wire puller.s and politioiana. I\Iy other comfort was the very existence of these laat men. The educated, the wealthy portion of Americana citizi-na have withdrawn fmra the polilical arena. They have abnegated their poaitiuu as the natural leaders of the pi-ople, and suffer them to be led by men v/lu make a trade and a living of their leadership. A New York merchant said to me, "Yes, I know I am plundered of aonio hundred dollars a year in taxes not wanted or not expended, but while I was trying to set that right I aliould lose a thousand in my business." Tliia feeling, and an unwillingness to be mixed up in the diit and strife of jjolitics, aeem general, and it ia this which allows the professional politician to bo a possibility. If one is not deceived in these impressions, the lessons an Englishman should learn are obvious. He should press for- ward the eilucation of our peeple without stint, pause, or delay. Ho should himself take an earnest part in every political movement. In the same proportion as he is edu- cated, experienced, wealthy, leisured, does this claim, this rrs[)onsihility of citizenship weigh upon him. I speak not to one political side, but to both. If the natural leaders NOTKH ON AMKIIICA. 43 nnil (;uii4('H of the ix ()|il(> ubdiciitn th*t poHitiun, who cin wniidcrif tho ppojilt! gunstniy. If the c:iiitiiiii.s anil olHcfts of tho Hliipof .Stnt,t'l»MV() luir to drift, who can woinlcr if nho gctH on the rookn, or is h* izod by piriitiH, who plundt'r lllldd»^s• l»(iil htr f<»r thfir priviitf t nds. Tliis lesson I dot-m tho nioHt irnport mt I loHrn( d in Arneiica,iitid I hiunhly otl'i-r it to you. Ah mt'nly tnivi IIjuk, and hiistily truvillinj} llirou:{h tho country. I know how Ktnall o.iu h.iv«' bicn my insiglit into Home of tho KubjcctR I bavo rained in this lucturo ; how liribh; one is to triiNtakcH nnd tni iiception. And I inu.st «li8clftlm ono«} for all the poNitioi ui an infallihle judge or tho idea of Hpeukinn' (X. vathrdrd. Specially must this ho tho oaso tiow I O'lno to touch od THK rUlVATE HOCIAL LIKK OF AMEUICA. It SPOinod to me then that n.en do not retire from buMJ- nt'HH 8H they do in England They may clmnyo their occupation to Homo i x^t iit, and diminish the time they give to it. ISut they oont nuo to livu in tho city and to uhatu in i(H puiHuitM i*.,u\ speculiitior)H. I have already adveit' d to tho fact, that one seeH ho few parks and country Heats in passing through the States. Our familiar and best typo of tho English gentletnan hardly seems to exist. I mean where a man having made or inherited a fortune and ponition retires to a lar^e house in tho country, aiul livina; in easy afHuonce and liberal style, ^ives up his days to the duties of the muj^istrates' bench, tn the poor law board-room, to tlo: hospitals and schools of his district, to the comforts and wull-hring of his ootMigers, and the improvement of his estate, Tliero is an absence, as it seems to me, of a leisured, lettered, landed class. In American society gt iieridly there is a namaless something wanting, even as the land itself and its cities lack a finish, a polish, a jc nc sais i/uoi. 1 am of course open to the reply that I dii4 not see the best American Society. Perhaps it is a sufficient one. OONCLUHION, To conclude, altliough m-tny will Hnd their advantage in CK-d^rating, I confess that I pi', fir th;' ways, the manners, the society, the roads, the distances, the general iKjrtmcnta of England, and am not tempted to rt move from " my own little, right little, tight little island " But this is th« natural fetling of ii man advanced in life, and need not damj) th« enterprise of any of those many intelligent ai.d aspiring young mtn I here see before me, To them and to 44 NOTKa ON AMERICA. all I tender my beat aoknowlodgmontii for tho kind atteu< tion with whioh you havu liatouvd tu my papera. Alderman Haynea moved a vote of thiinkH to Mr. Praiioo for hiH iutercgting lecture, at the Humo time exp.-eHHing pleaauro at bin safe return from Aiuerioa.— In Hiuuntling tho motion, the Kev. M. H. DuNUAlt Huid they must havu noticed that the lecturer bad been verv obHcrvatit during bia travulH, and they wuro very grateful to him for giving them the reHult of his ubBorvationa. — The vote wua ac- corded by accliiinution, and Mr. New having formally couveyeu it tu the Lecturer, the pruceediugti oluHed, ^^{^^^^ tK-> \V. & H. Smith, Steam Printkrs, Evesham.