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 DAIRYING IND 
 
 THE 
 
 BY 
 
 J. A. RUDDICK 
 
 Dairy and CM Storoft Committionmr 
 
 A LBOTTJBB DBLITHBD BirORB THB 
 
 MAY COUBT CLUB 
 
 OTTAWA 
 
 Fbbbuabt 21. 1908 
 
 OTTAWA 
 
 aovxBmoNT pbintinq BimiAO 
 1906 
 
THE 
 
 DAIKYING INDUSTHY 
 
 BV 
 
 J. A. RUDDICK 
 
 Dairy and Cold Storage CommUtioner 
 
 A LSCTURE DELIVERED BEFORE THE 
 
 MAY COURT CLUB 
 
 OTTAWA 
 
 Februart 21, 1908 
 
 OTTAWA 
 
 OOTIRNUKNT PRINTINO BUREAU 
 
 1908 
 
THE DAIRYING INDUSTRY 
 
 /^N£ would need to have a more fertile inia^iiintion than I 
 have, to be able to put m u:h poetry into a deacription of 
 the dairy industry. It is, however, not only one of tho groutest 
 induBtries in Canada from a material point of view, but it is 
 one of the great industries of the world. Tho dairy industry 
 supplies all civilized people with at least two of their most 
 indispensable articles of food. There may not be many people 
 induced to engage in the business of dairying from a pure 
 love of it, but it cannot be denied that it does oJTer attractions 
 to those who are obliged to consider the money-getting possi- 
 bilities of whatever line of eflfort their energies are employed 
 in. 
 
 There are not many persons in this audience, or in tlie 
 whole Dominion for that matter, who do not derive, either 
 directly or indirect'y, some benefit from this great industry 
 which has contributed so largely to the prosperity of Canadian 
 agriculture. This assertion will be the more readily believed 
 when I state tb e total value of the products of Canadian 
 dairies, including milk, butter, cheese and condensed milk, 
 amounts to something like $100,000,000 annually. 
 
 A very important point in this connection is the fact that 
 while we recover, with the aid of the gentle cow, this large 
 amount of wealth from mother earth, by the transmutation 
 of pasturage and fodder crops into milk, the soil is not im- 
 poverished in the process, but on the ;;ontrary, is left in better 
 condition every year . . produce another $100,000,000. If 
 
you dig ft million dollftw out of ft gold mine, you hftve nothing 
 left but ft bole in the ground, ftnd I ftm told tb«t you ftre 
 much iurer of the hole in the ground thun you ftre of the 
 million dolUrt. In ft country like our* where «griculture it 
 the true bftsif of ftll wealth, tbit question of the conierrftt* n 
 of soil fertility ii of fundamotital importftnce. 
 
 In view of thew facta, I hftvo no further apology to offer 
 on behalf of the dairy industry. 
 
 A broad application of the term, "dai^ing industriea," 
 would include milk production, the milk supply of town and 
 cities, the manufacture of butter, cheese and condensed milk 
 and the numerous by-products obtained from the casein of 
 milk, such as substitutes for ivory and celluloid, adhesivea, 
 woodfiUers, paint, pencil erasers, toilet cream, &c., &c. But 
 knowing the short time at my disposal, and believing that the 
 patience and endurance of the members of the May Court 
 Club and their friends must have limitations, I am obliged 
 to use the term in a more restricted sense this evening. I shall 
 confine myself, therefore, to a brief reference to the two great 
 branches of the industry, namely, the manufacture of butter 
 and the manufacture of cheese, with particular reference to 
 the butter and cheese which is made in factories. It has been 
 the common practice to base all estimates of our progress on 
 the factory end of the business, because the home end of dairy- 
 ing is such an unknown quantity that accurate figures are not 
 obtainable, although it is estimated that the milk which is 
 used for direct consumption, and the butter which is made on 
 farms have a value which is at least double the value of the 
 butter and cheese made in factories. 
 
 The use of milk and its products as foods for man, dates 
 back to the very eariiest times ^. -Ind frequent mention of 
 butter and cheese in the early books of the Bible. Cheese was 
 known to the Greeks before the time of Homer, and Csesar 
 
nIatM that the Oi«niitm tTi\m lupplii^d the RoiHfliw with chcfto 
 in hit (Itj. 
 
 Tradition nay* that butte- wat dlBcovercd by the nomadic 
 tribe* o£ the Ea«t, who found that it waa produced by the 
 agitation which milk received when trnniportpd long distances 
 on the baoka of oamela. It ia aaid that in .\rabia, even to this 
 day, a aort of oily butter ia procured by placing the milk in a 
 veanel made from the akin of an animal, and nhnking it to nnd 
 fro auapended from tie limb of a tree or other convenient 
 iupport 
 
 Butter, as w© know it, consists of the fat of milk, in solid 
 form, mixed with a cerUin percentage of water, which may 
 Tary according to the skill or intention of the buttermaker, but 
 12 to 14 per cent is considered to be about the right proportion. 
 Sixteen per cent of water is the legal limit in t'lia country. 
 The process of buttermakui^ ia practically the same wherever 
 scientific methods are followed, and it requires an expert to 
 detect the sli^rht diflferences of flavour and texture which may 
 be found in well made samples of butter brought together 
 from the ends of the earth. Of course, there is good and bad 
 butter to be found everywhere, and it is t je proportion of the 
 two kinds produced in any country that makes or mars its 
 reputation in this respect, rather than any distinctive quality 
 or characteristic in the product which may be traced to locality 
 of origin. 
 
 CJheeae is made by precipitating the protein compt ...ds of 
 milk with rennet. The curd which is thus IV. med holds the 
 fat of milk mechanically, and a ce-.'n amo.u, <f the water 
 is also retained. A Canadian che. ..- cheese, for instance, 
 consists, roughly speaking, of one-third fat, one-third protein 
 or casein compounds, and one-third water. 
 
 The art of cheese-making is infinitely more intricate and 
 diflacult than that of butter-making. It deals with several 
 
constituents of the milk, two of which, tho sugar and the 
 casein, unlike the comparatively inert and stable fat, are 
 peculiarly subject to bio-chemical changes, as yet not fully 
 understood or studied by the chemist and the bacteriologist. 
 It requires only slight modifications of the process of cheese- 
 making to produce marked differences in the finished product. 
 As a result, there are probably 100 distinct different varieties 
 of cheese made in various parts of the world, and at least 25 
 well-known classes, varying greatly in appearance, texture and 
 flavour — particularly in flavour. 
 
 They vary in texture from the Schabzieger of the Swiss 
 Alps, so hard that it must be grated, or rasped, as the name 
 suggests, to the soft and creamy French cheese, like Brie or 
 Camembert; in the matter of flavour, there is the mild and 
 genteel Cheddar on the one hand, and the loud and vigorous 
 Limburger on the other ; and as for size, they range from the 
 dainty Neufchatel, a few ounces in weight, to the ponderous 
 Gruyere which may weigh over 100 lbs. 
 
 While the preparation of cheese as an article of food is 
 undoubtedly one of the oldest of the technical arts, the science 
 of cheese-making is of very recent origin. Until only twenty 
 or thirty years ago, our knowledge of the art was almost wholly 
 empirical, having been handed down from father to son, or 
 more correctly speaking, from mother to daughter, each 
 generation adding its quota of experience to the rules which 
 then did duty for the more exact knowledge that is available 
 to the cheesemaker of the present day. 
 
 The brilliant researches and discoveries of Pasteur, 
 although they did not include a study of milk, nevertheless 
 blazed the track along which other scientists have followed 
 to show us the why and the wherefore of many of the changes 
 that take place in milk and its products. We know now that 
 the profound changes which result from milk fermentations are 
 
not natural to the milk itself, but depend upon the entrance 
 of germs which are introduced either accidentally or inten- 
 tionally after the milk is drawn. Thus that common pheno- 
 menon, the souring of the milk, is lot due to any inherent 
 tendency in the milk itself, but to the introduction of the 
 lactic acid lacilli which split up the sugar of milk and 
 produces lactic acid. The investigations of bacteriologists and 
 chemists, supported by the work of practical experimenters, 
 have established, during these recent years what appears to 
 be a sound basis for the science of dairying. 
 
 It is only fair to say here, that the sum of original knowl- 
 edge on this subject has received some valuable contributions 
 through the investigations of the experts of the Canadian 
 departments of agriculture and agricultural colleges. It may 
 also be said that Canadian cheese-makers have led the van in 
 applying the teachings of science to the practice of their art. 
 But we must not pursue this phase of the subject any 
 further, or we shall get into technicalities which would neither 
 be profitable nor interesting to this audience. It will be more 
 in keeping with the aims and objects of the Court in arranging 
 the course of lectures, of which the present is one, if we now 
 proceed to consider the origin, status and possibilities of the 
 dairy industry in Canada. 
 
 The early French settlers introduced cows from Brittany 
 and no doubt made butter from their milk. It is quite likely 
 that they made cheese also and that the * Fromage raffine ' 
 still made on the Island of Orleans is a relic of their early 
 efforts. Cheese of a more or less nondescript character was 
 made for home use by the early settlers of Ontario, but neither 
 the art nor the industry made any progress in Canada imtil 
 the factory system was introduced in the year 1864. The 
 first cheese factory was established in Oxford county, Ontario, 
 by one Harvey Farrington, who came from New York State 
 
 7 
 
for the purpose. Another factory was started in Hastings 
 county in 1866, and from that time forward the extension of 
 the industry forged rapidly ahead in Ontario. The first 
 cheese factory was established in the province of Quebec, in 
 Missisquoi county, about the same time as the first ones in 
 Ontario^ but there was very little development of the industry 
 until after the year 1880. 
 
 The dairy industry has not grown as much in New Bruns- 
 wick or in Nova Scotia as one would expect to find in districts 
 so well adapted for it Fruit growing, lumbering and fishing 
 have divided the attention of the farmers to some extent, and 
 dairying does not prosper unless it is made the special business 
 of the farm. There are, however, a number of successful 
 cheese factories and creameries in these two provinces, and 
 they supply the local demand for butter and cheese and have 
 a considerable surplus for export to the West Indies. I was 
 gratified to find, when I visited Bermuda and Jamaica a year 
 or two ago, that the * Bluenose ' and the ' Evangeline ' brands 
 of butter and cheese were the most popular of any sold in those 
 islands. 
 
 Co-operative or factory dairying was begun in Prince 
 Edward Island in 1902, under the guidance of my predecessor 
 in office. Dr. James W. Eobertson. In a few years there were 
 some 40 factories in operation and Prince Edward Island 
 became recognized as a successful dairying province. It has 
 been generally acknowledged that the prosperity of the island 
 has been wonderfully quickened by the adoption of systematic 
 dairy practices. 
 
 Following the trend of events rather than geographical 
 sequence, let us now turn our attention to the West for a few 
 moments. In Manitoba, organized dairying began to make 
 headway about 1894, and there are now a fair number of cheese 
 factories and creameries in that province. In what was then 
 
 8 
 
the territories of Assiniboia and Saskatchewan, there w^re at 
 one time 14 creameries in active operation, but the reign of 
 King Wheat has proved inimical to the growth of the dairy 
 industry, and it has not been developed extensively in what 
 is now the province of Saskatchewan. 
 
 Proceeding westward into Alberta, we find more favourable 
 conditions, especially in that section of the province lying 
 between Calgary and Edmonton, where the progress of the 
 dairy industry has kept pace with the settlement of the 
 country. Beginning in 1896, the increase has been steady and 
 substantial, with the result that to-day there are 45 creameries 
 and 8 cheese factories in the sumiy province of Alberta. There 
 is every indication that Northern Alberta will become one of 
 the best dairy sections of Canada. 
 
 These two western provinces have been the scene of a 
 tinique and rather abrupt departure from the line which has 
 generally been followed by governments in assisting agricul- 
 tural effort. A few creameries had been started in the early 
 nineties as private or co-operative ventures, but at the end of 
 two or three years, they were, for various reasons, and with- 
 out exception, acknowledged to be failures. The new set- 
 tlers, who were depending almost wholly on dairying as a 
 means of livelihood, were in a serious position, because, whJe 
 it was possible for them to make butter on their farms their 
 facilities were very poor, and there was no way y which the 
 individual farmer could find a profitable market for his butter 
 
 at that time. 
 
 The Dominion Government came to the rescue, and the 
 Dairy Commissioner was authorized by the Honourable the 
 Minister of Agriculture to take over the management of the 
 existing creameries, to advance sufficient money to pay off 
 their pressing debts, and to make loans for the equipment of 
 new creameries that would come under the same management. 
 
Confidence was at once restored and under expert supervision 
 the business grew and prospered so that the Department of 
 Agriculture was able, at the end of 1905, to give up the active 
 control of a large number of creameries which had been 
 assisted to a position of independence and stability. New 
 markets had been found for the butter in the Orient and in 
 the Yukon, and a reputation had been established that is of 
 great value to the industry in that part of the country to-day. 
 The money which was advanced to the creamery associations 
 has all been repaid except a few trifling amounts. 
 
 The new provincial governments are following the policy 
 adopted by the federal authorities, and with a modified plan, 
 continue to foster the industry. Knowing the circumstances, 
 as I do, I have no hesitation in asserting that this action on 
 the part of the government, call it paternalism if you like, 
 saved what was then known as * The Territories ' from a most 
 serious setback, and carried the early settlers over the most 
 critical and trying period of their experience. 
 
 Crossing the Great Divide into British Columbia, we find 
 a successful creamery business established at difiFerent points 
 in the fertile Okanagan valley, along the Lower Fraser river, 
 and on Vancouver island. 
 
 Thus we see that the dairy industry is well established in 
 every province of the Dominion from the Atlantic to the Pacific. 
 The total number of cheese factories and creameries in Canada 
 at present is 4,355. Of this number, 1,284 are in the pro- 
 vince of Ontario, and 2,806 are in Quebec, leaving 265 fairly 
 evenly distributed among the other seven provinces. The 
 factories in Ontario average much larger than those in the 
 other provinces. 
 
 The first cheese was exported from Canada to Great Britain 
 in 1864. The shipments grew year by year and reached the 
 
 10 
 
maximum in 1903, when the total value of the hutter and 
 cheese exported amounted to the sum of $31,667,561. 
 
 The Blight falling off in the quantity exported during the 
 last year or two has been attributed to a decline of the industry, 
 but the true reasons for it are much more satisfactory and 
 are really a cause for congratulation. The large growth in 
 our population and the increased purchasing power of the 
 people generally, easily account for the decrease in the exports. 
 
 There is no reason why the dairy industry should not be 
 largely extended in every province of the Dominion. I have 
 visited every important dairy country in the world, except 
 Siberia, and am bound to say none of them is better fitted by 
 nature for successful dairying than Canada is. With a climate 
 which produces healthy, vigorous animals, notably free from 
 epizootic diseases, with a fertile soil for the growing of fodder 
 crops and pasture, with abundance of pure water, and a plenti- 
 ful supply of ice for all purposes of the dairy, we have almost 
 ideal conditions, and advantages which should be of great 
 assistance in holding a fair share of the world's trade in dairy 
 
 products. 
 
 Great Britain is our chief market for butter and cheese, 
 although we send comparatively small quantities to New- 
 foundland, Bermuda, the West Indies, British Guiana, Mexico 
 and South Africa. We also sell some butter in the Onent, 
 and of late years a small quantity has gone to Germany 
 
 The quantity of butter and cheese annually imported into 
 Great Britain is enormous. The value of the butter alone 
 amounts to over $100,000,000, of which the little kingdom of 
 Denmark supplies nearly one-half. Siberia comes next and 
 is credited with over $15,000,000 worth, closely followed by 
 Australia. Next in the order of their importance are, France, 
 New Zealand, Sweden, The Netherlands, Canada, the United 
 States and Argentina. Small and irregular quantities are 
 
 11 
 
received from eome other countriea. It will probably Burprise 
 many of you to hear that the dairymen of Iceland send occa- 
 sional shipmenta of creameiy butter to Scotland. 
 
 The value of the cheese annually importe<l into Great 
 Britain is a little over $33,000,000, of which Canada has the 
 distinction of furnishing 72 per cent of the whole or 84 per 
 cent of the kind which we make. The other countries from 
 which supplies of cheese are obtained are New Zealand, The 
 Netherlands, United States, France, Switzerland, Italy and 
 Australia. These facts are important, especially in regard to 
 butter, because they show us what a great field there is for a 
 further extension of our butter trade. Canadian butter stands 
 high in the British market, not only for its superior quality, 
 but because our laws relating to its manufacture and sale are 
 the most stringent of any country in the world, and are a 
 standing guarantee of its absolute purity. I need hardly say 
 that Canadu^n cheese easily ranks first in quality among the 
 imports into Great Britain of the class to which it belongs. 
 
 The comparative food values of milk and cheese are 
 becoming better known and as this appreciation grows, as it 
 should, these products will enter more largely into our daily 
 dietary than they do at present. A quart of good milk is 
 said to be equal in food value to a pound of meat, and one 
 pound of well ripened cheese contains as much nourishment 
 as two and a-half pounds of the best beefsteak; therefore, 
 milk at 12 cents a quart and cheese at 20 cents a pound are 
 among the cheapest of foods, compared with the present prices 
 of other things. 
 
 The governments of Canada, both federal and provincial, 
 have been liberal in their policies concerning the dairy in- 
 dustry. It has been generally agreed that the provincial 
 authorities should undertake all work which is educational 
 in character, while the Dominion Government deals with 
 
 u 
 
questions pertaining to markets, transportation and cold 
 storage, or what may be termed the commercial side of the 
 industry. The Dominion Government also assumes the re- 
 sponsibility for the enactment and the administration of the 
 laws relating to the manufacture, sale and exportation of dairy 
 products. 
 
 All the provincial departments of agriculture, except Nova 
 Scotia, have regularly organized dairy divisions. Dairy 
 schools are maintained in Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick 
 and Manitoba. Experts are employed who visit the cheese 
 factories and creameries during the working season, for the 
 purpose of giving instruction to the cheese or butter makers 
 and to advise with those in charge of factories on questions of 
 general management. Canada was the first country in the 
 world to adopt this system of factory instruction, and there 
 are now nearly 100 of these experts employed by the different 
 provincial governments. Much of our success in cheese-making 
 can be attributed to this system of factory instruction. 
 
 The Dominion officials endeavour to keep in touch with 
 the tendencies and requirements of the markets to which our 
 butter and cheese are shipped, and to disseminate among the 
 cheese and butter makers such information as may be acquired 
 with that end in view. 
 
 A large staff of men are employed, under the Dairy and 
 Cold Storage Commissioner, who watch and report on the 
 handling of butter and cheese from the time it leaves the 
 factory in Canada until it reaches the consumer in Great 
 Britain. The information thus collected is passed on to those 
 who may be interested, or who are responsible for the defects 
 which have been noted, and as a result there is constant im- 
 provement being made, not only in the quality of the butter 
 and cheese and in the appearance and style of the packages, 
 but also in the services provided by the transportation com- 
 
 13 
 
paniM. The cold storage >erTice«, both on land and .on, which 
 were inaugurated through the initiative of the Department of 
 Agriculture, at the head of which is the Hon. Sydney Fisher, 
 who is our chairman this evening, have been of incalouhble 
 benefit .o the aoirying industries. 
 
 Ladies and Gentlemen, I have attempted in this brief 
 sketch, to give you so. e idea of the importance and value of 
 the dairying industries to Canada. I hope I have been suo- 
 cessful in some degree at loast. 
 
 14 
 
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