IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ^m m f ^i IS i tiS. Illllio 1.4 6" 1.8 1.6 V] ^1 <^-^ ^ v: \-' '/ M Hiotogniphic Sciences Corporatioil 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 <^U ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurie et/ou pelliculie □ Cover title missing/ Leti titre de couverture manque loured maps/ Cartes g6ographiques en couleur I I Coloured maps/ □ Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or blackl/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ n Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr^e peut causor de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within th'9 text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'una restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela itait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmies. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimentaires: L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les detail?; de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mithode normale de filmaga sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ S Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es Pages restored and/oi Pages restauries et/ou pelliculies Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages dicolordes, tacheties ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages d6tach6es Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Qualiti inigale de I'impression Includes supplementary materit Comprend du materiel suppl^mentaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible I I Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or laminated/ r~y] Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ I I Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ r~~1 Only edition available/ Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partieilement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 4ti filmies A nouveau de fapon d obtenir la meilieure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmA au taux de reduction indiqui ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X »X 7 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X BH The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library Division Prowincial Archives of British Columbia L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAce A la gAn^rosit* de: , Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copiu: in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetA de l'exemplaire film*, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplairas originaux dont la couvarture en papier est imprimie sont filmis en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplairas originaux sont film^s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui compote une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole -♦• signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as requirevi. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmis d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film* 6 partir de Tangle sup*rieur gauche, de gauche * droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrant la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 6/"0€^<6^/ y^^^^U^^y^< A POFTJI.AR X ..X. A. *'^ A, D 1 \. 4-^ H vj.. f"^. X \ ¥ The T^,;^ jy olfanefica to uxeAumiSoi on of the 3tate .into" the uMm, ;,, iM histories of Slsl' the State o* Nstvada," «iid to histoi^es >{' t^e Wjr.f^J •>? Ssn Jo«quiri, Sss.-jtJinfito, Yuba nr^d SuUef, Cililcroi* ; WaDu W«!!a, Ca!unsbv». Gorfiisld .vvd Whitman, Washington Ter'ilOfv aiid Um»ta«o?«, road i/i8i>amo/«. Pate 'V line 20. for oomiueHitador, read conua,slador. Page 51'. line 33, for thoufjM, read thou(/h. i»o«o i«ii line ()■ for iS26, read fSsy. Piiffc "03 lino 8, for two, read three. Page 230 line SO, for WUlamctte, read lF«tom«^. Page 2(14 line 20. for PiMicalljj, Kiid publicly. Page 34i», line 20, after the/j, insert not. Page 3o8, line 14, for Bosh, read Itosc,. Page 307, line 34, for Tager, read Far/e/-. Page 475, line 17, for iSsj, read fS6j. GENERAL INDEX, A Abandonment of Kort Walla Walla, W.>. Ahholl, Captain (i. H., HI), 141. Aliernethy, George, ttral ProvlHlonal Governor, if-', 2KI, ffil) to :iVi, 277, 28.'i, -JXIi, ,«)ll, m\, M:. :12I. .tlK, 3.tl-Wllllani, 477. Arlive, V. S War Steamer, 420, W,K Achilles, Captain .1. H . 4r>8 to liW. Adair, .John, It!.'),. 111. Adams— President .John tinlncy and the Ore- gon Ciuestlon, 2(1.'!, 2!l.'i— Point (Cape Froii- doso), SI, 122. .\dmtralty Inlet, 12!. Admission of Oregon to the Union, f!.i2. Adventure, nu\lt hy Ciipt. Gray In 17il2, 121, 12.'. .Vgrlcultural Methods In Pioneer Davs, 177, 'J2S, 250. Agullar— Martin dc. Voyage of, 18— Itlo de los, 4it, (17, Hll, 82, So, 1 18. See inlumbtii. .\litannni River, 4(18. Alarcon, Kernando de, Kxplores the Colorado, .\laska or AUaska— Discovery and Occupation hy Russia, .Vi to (i2, 77, iW— IJapt. Cook's Visit, 87 to 8!)-()ther lOn^Ush Voyages, 9li, I2S- Spanish Vi)yage, 102— Ru.sslan Title, l.i.t— !• ur Traders and .Natives, I4S to l.iO— Islands, !!■!, i).->. .\lava, Gon. Jose Manuel d', Spanish Com- mandant at Noolka, 128, 1211. Alhany, Propo.sed for Capital, ;1I7. Alh<(tn).i.i, American Vessel, ll.'i, 14li. .VIcorn, Capt. Miles K., 308. 101, 4(«, !:«. Alden— Capt. B. It., .'I'SO, 3,i:i to .'fw— Camp, .%i7. Aleutian Islands, (il) to 02. 88, 102. Algear, Pioneer ol 1810, 2;)2. Allen, James, 2Sii. Alpowa River, 141, 210, iW, 471, I7.i. .\lta California, «4. Alvord, Major U. S. A., 3:«, .'IW, .ifil. Ambrose, Indian Agent, 4.(4. American— Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 208 to 221, 201, 273, 30.')- Fur Com- pany, 1!«) to 201)— Ulver, 103, .■i2«— .Settlers and the Hudson's Hay Company, 230 to 2:17, 241— Society for the Settlement of Oregon, 223 to '22."). See Krploriilions, Anderson— J. Patton. !M:l-Levi, 3"i0, :!.5.'), 478. Angell, Martin, Death of, llr2. Anian, Fabulous straits of, 22 to 28, :).'t to 37, 40, 44, >W to r>7. Hee NorUiwenl Pansaye. A pplegate— Charles, 27.'!— Creek, Siege of, 40-2— KUsha L.,2«l,. '151 -Emigrant Route, •2i)S,30-2— Jesse, 273, 282, 28(1, 287, S»8, .'««, .'1.50, ;t.55— I.lnd- say, 273, 208. Applesecds and Trees brought out in 1817, ,'iOl. AranzazH, Spanish Vessel, 117. Archipelago. See Aleutian, tirnur/hlon. King Oeorge TIT, Lazarus, San Juan. ' Arctic Ocean (North Sea), 10, 33 to 35, 40, 70, 77, 80, 88, 89, 131. See also Xorth Sen. Argonaut, F.ngllsh Vessel, 105 to 100. Armstrong-Maj). A. N., 40«, 413, 427-Plensant, Death of, ,')5(i. Army. See ReffiUam. Arteaga, Ignacio, Voyage of, 1)1. Arthur, Daniel, Robert and William, 275. Ashhurton Treaty, 204, '270, 203. ARliley,Gen. W. H„ Fort, Lake, 101, liH. Asslnlbolne River, (!fl. Astor, Jolin Jacob, 140, lOi to 107, 100. .\storia— Founded and Sold to PIngllsh Traders, 1.53, 1511, 100, lai Surrendered to the United States, 100 to KiS- Abandoned by Hudson's Hay C'ompany, 175, 'Ji<— Postofiice Estab- lished, 310— Custom House l-'.stahllshed, XtSi. .\sunclan Inlet, 81. See C\itiiml>iu. Atiial)asca Iiake and River, 131. .Vtklnson, Rev. (!eo. H., 170. Atreilda, Spanish Vessel, 115 Augur, Capt. C. ('., 408, 111, 113, 114. Avatscha Ba.v, 57, 8:1. Avery, , I, C, 288. j .\yala, Juan de. Voyage of, 70. n Babcock— A. D., 350, .'1521 .;-Dr. J. I/., '2:i2. 213, 244 2.51 , •2.>i to 2>5, '277, 281 , 082. Batlln's Hay, .'13, 77. Halley-H.,.'{77— Capt. Joseph, .'t!HI, 432-Dr. Wm. J., 220, ZW, -243, "244, '277, 281, 285, ;«M, 470—7,. 377, Baker— Andrew J., 275— Hay, 1'20— Col. K. 1). 2(12. —John O., 275— Mount, 12;t. Balboa Discovers the Paclllc, 10. Barclay— Captain, 07— Sound, 07. Harkwell, .M.C., 354, Barnes-Captain, 431, 44.5-l,ieut. D. P., 31 1. Barnum, Gen. K. M , 3.51 , .'1(«. Barrows, Dr. Wm., 271. Bates House Massacre, 350. Battles— -Vpplegate Creek, December, I8')5, 402— Applegate and William Creeks, 185), '154— Hnttle Creek, .\ngust 24, 18i53, ;V)(i— Big Bend, ia52, 3.30— Big Butte Creek, I)eceml)er 24, 18.55, 401— Big Meadows, May 27, 18,50,443 to 440— Bloody Springs, Octol)er .'to, 18.5^), .'«Hi— Burnt River, July 12, ia50. 401— Canoes off Rogue River, .\prll, 18.5(), 44i— Cascades, March 20, 18.50, 448 to 4.54— Chetco and Pistol River In- dians, 440, 44'2, 445-Coiiullle River, 1851, ;W0- Coqullle River, 18.5(), 411— Deer Creek, Dec. •2, 18.5.5, 401— EiRlit- Dollar Mount.-vln, March, 1850, 435— Galice tJreek, Oct. 17, 185.5, .3a5— Grande Ronde, July l(t, 18.50.4.50 to 4(il-Grave Creek Hills, Oct. 30, 1A55, .'SOU— Hungry Hill, Oct. ;», 1855, ,300— Illinois River, March, 1850, 441— John Day River, 1&5(), 317— Makanoote- nal Rancheria, Marcii, ia5t(, 411— Meadows, April, 18-50. 437— MedicalTiake, Sept. 1, 1*58, 473-Mili Creek, Sept. 10. 1850, 405— .Murphy's Creek, Jan. '2, 18.50, 403-1'lne Creek, April 17, 1858, 471— Port Gamble, Nov. 20, 1850, 408— Red River Settlement, 1810, 171— Nesqually. Apr. 1850, 4.5(i— Rogue River, Nov., 18.5.5, 400— Rogue River, March 27, 18.50, 441— Rogue River, May 28, 29, :«), and June 0, 18-50, 44-5— .Sand Hollows, March 1, 1848, 3l4-.satas Creek, April 17, 185«, 420— Slmcoe Creek, Oct. 0, 18.55, .'i.S8— Steptoe's Defeat, April 17, l.'i5S, 17i— Table Rock, 18,51, 3'W-Table Rock, l.s.5;i, 355— Touchet River, 1848, 31()— Two Bnttes. Nov. and 10, 1*55, 408 -Walla Walla, Doc. 7, 18V), 414 to I'iJ— White River, Nov. 18.i5, 42*1— Williams Creek. Dec. 28, 18.55, 40'2- Yakima River, Nov. 8, 1&55, 407 Battle Rock, at Port Orford, 339, 440. Bay— See Avatscha, Baffin's, Baker'.i, BelUngham, Bodega, Deception. Drake's, Hudion's. Hum- boldt, Neah, San Francisco, Shoahvater, 7Vi'n- tdaii. VI iriSTOHY OF (>I{E(iON. Ileaiiluvrnols, Flrnl Name ol' Moiifaiia, 71). IVf/rir— Amorleaii Vessel, lUU— Money, :(:{(). licers, AlaiiNoii, -.'Itl, i')l, 'SA, iTjU, •-■77, &2. Ilflirliitf— Isle, oil-Sea, .")7— Htnilts, r>7, ss, wi— Vitus, Vi)ya«es of, .'17 to 'iH. Hell, (leorne \V'.,:;2S. Hollainy, CJeorue W„ 2111. Belle— Lake, IJ— steamer, l.")I. lU'lllUKhaiii Bay, 12'l, Ijn. Hellln's Wonderful Chart, 711. Kelt, Surgeon .\. M., i;tl. Bennett— Captain Charles, aci, -(OS, 4i:i '.o liii- Fort, 4J0-iJaptaln George W., 31 1. Benser, Captain. Brings Cattle to Oregon, ^Ull. Ilentincic Arm, North, l.'U Benton, Senator Thnmas H.— Works for ( jregon In Congress, 21."), '-'Ki, 322 to .l'.'?- Letter to Ore- gon I'loneers, :!lit, BenyowskI, Count .Maurice de. Voyage of, (il. Barkely. .S'oe Harvlau. Berry Vines and Bushes Brought out In 1SI7. Wl. Bcvln, Lieut J. K., 314. Blddle, ('apt. J., IB-^) to 167. Itlg Bend of Rogue River, 441, 413. Big .Meodows, Battle of, 4IW. 442, 413. Bill for Creation of Oregon Terrltr"'v and State, 21.'), 2Ul.:i24 to .127, :rj2. Billl(|uc, Pierre. 2(i. Blssell, Lieut. U. H. Army, 4."i2. Bltterroot Mountains, 130, 142. 421. Black— Survivor of Umpqua Massacre, 1!W— Cap- tain of Riicroon, lti3— Gowns,. «'■« Cnl/zolic Min- slona. Blackfoot Indians, :W2. Blain, Wll.son,3-28, 3«. lllalne, James G.. Statement of the Oregon (.question, 201 to 207. Blair, Pioneer of IS3I), 232. Blakely, Captain, 115. Blanchet, A. .M A. and V. N., Catholic Misslon- arlco, 74, 217 to 220, 2tl, 213, 214, 30.5, 307. Blanco — Cape, 411, 82, 1 111— Rio, see Fnisi'r Jilvcr. Blankenshlp, MaJ. George, 4aH to 41)3. Bledsoe, Captain, 4-33, 44.). Block Flouses— .\t Cascades, 400, 448, 4.'il, *">2-On Pugot Sound, 420— At Vancouver, 4."))— .\t Walla Walla, 4(«i. Hlmsoni, English War Vessel, 167. Blue Mountains, l-'jll, 2S!i, 4.')ll to 462. Boat. See i'cxsi'l. Bodega— Bay, S3. 127— I'ort, l'23— y (|uadra (cua- dra), .Juan Francisco de la, Spanish Ex- plorer and Commissioner, 711,82,111, 1II7, 112, 117, 12.3, 124, 128. lioggus, Henry, Road Party of 1816, 2iis. Boise-Fort, 2(1.), 2811, 2«,S, 32:{, .361, 361— .ludge Reuben P., .'Wl, 3.51, liVi'ti-RI ver, .301. Bohin, A. .r., Indian Agent, killed by Yakima Indians, 38(> to 3110, 474. Bonneville, Capt. B. L. K., Trapping Expedi- tions of, 21(2 to 201. Boon. .John I)., :!()0, 3.il. Hoot County. See Mullnomali, "Bostons," irni, 1117,3711. Bradford— Daniel and Putnam, US— Island, 410 to 4.-)2. Bramley, .T. S., 3.')1. Brattaln, .1. H. and Paul, mt, .l")!. Brazil Colonized by Portugal, 2ii. Breck, Lieut. ,1 M., 4.")1. Bridger, .lames. Fur Trader, 201, 206. Bristow, W. W., ;«), 3*>. British Columbia Islands, 03, 0). Brlttain, Daniel P., ,370. Brooke, Bumford and Noble, 3/0, 410, 1711. /Irolher Jonathan, wreck of the, 17.5. Broughton— Archipelago, 124— Lieut. W. R., 118, lai. Brouillet, J. B. A., Catholic Missionary, 30,S, 310, 311. Brown, Lieut. James, 311 -Jetf, i7!)-J., 2i.3, 478— Orus, 27.). Bruce, MaJ. James, 3116, 308, .!!«» to 40.3, 433 to 438, 412, 445. Bryant, Judge William C, 328. Bucarell, Port, 82. Buccaneers of the Spanlsli Colonies, 27, 32, .52 to .54 Buclnman— Col. 1. S. A., Ill) to 116— President James, 206, 3111, .3.52. Buck, \V. \V., .m. Buckley, Capt. W. S.. 451. Bueiia Ventura River, 200. Buenos .Vyros Subdued by Spain, III. Bultlnch Harbor, See Ordu'H Ilarboi: Buoy, Captain, .300, 4:B. Burch— BenJ. F., 2tlS, 31.3, a50, ;V52'.^, 177-Ciiailes, 28;i— s. %a. Burnett, Judge Peter H.. 2:17, 273, 2S2, -Kll, 321 , 32S. Burns, Ilugh, 2.57, 277, •J<2. Burnt River, 461. Burrard Inlet, 124. Burrows, Lieut. ,1. M., 417 to 42(i. Bush, Asahel, a!5, ;i51, 301. 131. Bushey, Captain, 102, 131. Bustamante. Voyoge of, 11.5. Bute Inlet, 121. Butler, Senotor, Opposes Oregon BUI, 32.5 to 327. Caamano— Inlet, 114, 11-5— Lieut. Jacinto, voyage of, 117. Cabrlllo, Juan Rodriguez, Voyage of, 2.5, 20. Calhoun, John C , and the Oregon Uuestlon, 201. Caledonia, New, 141. California, Lower— Discovered and Coloni/.ed, 10. 24, 16, 51— Missions Founded, 61. California, Gulf of, 21, 42, 51. ( nlifornia, Steamship, Si". Calllornia, Upper— Discovered, 2.5— Explored by Drake, 30— Reported Rich in Gold, 31, 51— Supposed to be an Island, 50— Explored l)y Spanish Navigators. 2.5, 46 to 48. 78 to 82— Colonization of, 51, 61— Missions founded, 61 -Visited by tUipt. Cook, 81 to 86; by Van- couver, 118— Visited by .Vnierlcan Trappers, 182 to 101, 201, 202; by Hudson's Bay Com- pany Traimers, 110— Cattle Procured from, 210 to 2!2— Emigrant Trains to, 248 to 251, 27.5, •2X1, '288, '208, 301, SJO-Conquered from Mexico, •JOD-Oold Discovered, 32tl—..\dmitted to the fnl..n.;«2. Camp— .\ Trapper and Pioneer Settler, '2:10. See Allien, Monlgomerji, Stewart, Walla Watia and Furt. Camijalgn- .Vgalnst the Cayuses, 312 to 318— Kearney against Rogue Rivers, .tW— Col. Casey on (/oqullle River, 3;i0— On Rogue River in '5:1, .3.51) to ;i50— MaJ. Haller to Boise, 3(tl-M8|. Hallor to Yakima, 388, 42,5— Grave Creek, 31)6— Rogue River In fall of 1*5.5, 300, 4011- Raines and Nesmith to Yakima, 405 to 100, 42.5— Col. Kelley to Walla Walla, 400 to I2'2— .slaughter to Yakima, 42-5— Maloney and Hayes to Yakima, 425— Col. Cornelius to Snake River and Yakima, 4'27, 428— Volun- teers to Big Meadows of Rogue River, 43H to l.'W- Rogue River In Spring of 18,56, 4:13 to 146 -Col. Wright to Yakima, 4.55— Col. Hhaw to Grande Ronde and Walla Walla, +57 to 467— Col. Steptoe to Walla Walla, 4ft3 to 467 —Col. Wright to Walla Walla in Nov., 18.56, 467— Col. Steptoe to Spokane, 470 to 473— Col. Wright to Spokane, 473 to 475. Campbell— A. J , 'Wl, .155- Hamilton, 2:12, 251, :i3l, 3.50-J. G., 282. Canadian Boundaries, 0.5. Canal. See Hnro, Rosario, Hood. (Janyon Mountains, 290,30:3, Cape. See Adams, Blanco, CUusell, DUiappoinl- meni, Falcon, Flattery, Fortunas, Frondnso, Qooil Hope, Orrgory, Hancock, Hoin, Icy, Loohmit, Mendocino, Martinez, North, Orford, Perilx, Prince of Wales, San Lucas, San H ique, San Sebiistlfin, Shoalwater, Tillamook. Capital— of Oregon, 251, '2.57, '28:3. 328, 336, 342, .345 to 310-of Washington, :343. Capitana, Spanish Vessel, 48. Captain John, Nez Perce Chief, 459 to 46:1. Carmlchael, Trapper and Pioneer Settler, 2.30. Carpenter, Dr. W. M., 313. Carson, David, 280. Carter, W. D , :i'15. Carver, Capt. Jonathan, .lourr . j o , 72 to 71. UKXKRAr, IXDKX. VII :U8- ;l:!l, » 'hsi'IkIbh— oC tlin Coliiiiihiii, |!17, III I, IH to 111— IiidluiiH, 2'.1l, 'J.VS, 147 lu IVI— .MdiiiiIuIiih, l'.1l, l:!7. ('uKf, Wllltttiii M.,l!!. Cave— .laiiieK. ;M')— Ulley, 27."). ( 'uveiullsh, 'I'liiis., Kiiitllsli Kreebooler, .1'.'. 'W, .">2. Cuyiise— IniliunH, UO, 21.1, L'l.'i, •ilii, .to.", to 3\H, :WI, 400 10 IIH, lii), 4'iH, tmt, 470-.\las»acreof Whit- man, .'«6 to:ilL'-War with. .112 to ;II8, 4H0. Cedars, Isle of. 21. ( 'ensuH— of 1S12, 470-or im.'i, 2S«-of IHIO, HIM. Chadwlek, Stephen K., ■W), :iVi. chamberlain, Aaron and Adolph, 2S:i, 2Wi, .lOO, .•IIM. 1711. Champ. ( 'hapman. Col. \V. W., 27.'), an, :iw, 4.s:l, l.il, m. Charges agalnsl (ien. Wool and Col. Wright, I 42?), 4(18. Charles \', of Spain, 17, 21. ('harlevo, M.,2l:l. CImse. H. .M., .{70. Vhalhnm, Kngllsh Vessel, IIH 'o I2S. Chemeketii. Nfe Sitlem. Chenoweth, Cascades Chief, Hanged, t.')2. Chetco Indians, 440, )42. Il'i. Child, First White, Horn In (iregon, l.Vi. t'lilll Con(|iipred, 10. Cblmlkain. See Tnhimlkain. Chinese, KIrst on I'aolflc Coast, liMi. Chinn, Ma^l. M. A., 40(1. 107, 411, 4l:(. Chinook-Indians. 122, l:W, Uli, litl— Town of 312. Chlpewyaii, Fort, IMl. Cibola, Mythical City of, 2."). CIpango of .Marco Polo, IK, 2;!, .11. Clackamas Iilstrict, 2SI. Clark--(Jeii I'.s. A., l7.f-Uansoni,27."), 2Stl. Clarke— See Lewis and Clarke-County Created, .Wl-Fork of the Columbia, 71. l.frt-Kcv. Henry, 2:i2-,I<)hii. Fur Trader, liil. Hit. I 'lassctt. Cape See h'ltiltern. Clatsop— nistrlct, 2S()— Fort, l.!S- Indians, I'W- Spit, :M0. Clayou()Uot Harbor, llii, 121. Clearwater River, liiO, 211, 421. ciei)denln,.T. s., 3l.). Clerke, Capt. Charles, Voyage of, HI loSll. Coast— Indians, 1:18 to 4«, 4).'i— Keservatlon, 110. cockstock, Molalla Chief, 270. Cod Fishing Myth, 2t)t. Coeur d' Aleno— Indians, 421, 470— .Mission, :S0l>, 424, 474. Coe, h. W., H« to 1.52. Coffin, Capt. S., 4,54. (•olnelt, Capt., Voyage of, IiB to IftS. (;olorado Ulver, 21, 25, ,50, 101, 104. Columbia— Bar, 1.52-t;ity. ;m— County, 311— River, .50, 07, 71 to7:l, SO, 82, 8.5, 00, 100, 1 10 to 122, 120, 127, 137, 14.5, 18.3, 128, 448 to 1-51— River Fish- ing and Trading Co., 204— Territory. Nee Wdxhinatoii. Columbia lieiliviva, Capt. Gray's Vessel, 101 to 1'22, Columbian, First Newspaper in Washington Territory. 313. ( 'olvUle-Fort, :«'2, 384, .380, 124, 470 -Indians, .-102, 424, 4,5«-Mlne8, im to aS((— Mission, .300. Comcomley, Chinook Chief, lfl3. Commissioners of Indian War Claims, 470. Conasset. Mythical Town of, 42. Concepcioii, Spanish .Vessel. 114. Contllct •'■■•ween Catholic and rroteslaiit Mi.^- slons, 217 to 221, •2.17, 258, 281, 30.5 to 311. C'ongress— Makes approplat ion for fiverland E.\- pedltlon In 18()3, 134— Dlsous.se8 the Oregon (iuestlon, 179, 180, 224, '292 to 297— Kxpels Kritlsh Subjects from the Territories East of the Rocky Mountains In 181.5, 190— Neglects to F/ncourage ScttlemeDtH of Oregon, 24.5, '24(1, •2(11, 319- Passes the Oregon BUI, .■}24 to •Mil— .\dmlls (Iregon to the I'lilon, •'ir>2. ,SVv hIm, Oclei/iile, Hi'iuilor and Hein-fmiildliie. Conser, .liicob. .'1:13. Constitution, i^lgnatures of the Framers, ;i.52^j. Constitutional— Conventions, '251 to '257. 2H0, .'442, :H4. !l5(k-Klectlons, '25(1, '287, :!M, .'14(1, :I49, :l.5l. Controversy between (iovernor Stevens and (Ien. Wool, :t8», .'HIO. 121 to 4'2.5, 4llt to 408. ConvenHon— at Montlcello for (irguiilzatlon of WaHhlngton Territory, 313— At Sprlngtleld, 111., and Cincinnati, (ihio, for Settlement of ( Iregon, 2(>'2. Sie alio Omnliluliondl. ('ook--Aiiios, 210, 477— Capt. .las.. Voyiiuo of, 02. 82, 81 to 91— .lames, 2't'2. Cooks Inlet, 88, 08, 128. Coombs, Nathan, '240, 250. Coos County, .'H4. Coppermine Ulver, 70. ('i)(|iillle River, 441. C ■ lus, Col. Tliomas R.. 407, l(J<,413 to 4:!'2,4I7. Con. .. r, Mn.i. N. A., 411, 113 to i:f2. Corn v . ', New, r27. Corona. ..J, Franclsi-o Vasijups de, K.xpcditloii of, T). Coripreal— Oasper, Hlscovcrs Labrador, •.:2— StraHs, 22. ortez- ilersiant'odu, Coni|Uprs Me.xleo, 10- l''..\- plores the Pn-IHc Coast, 21 -Sea of, 21. CorvallH, Town of, :!.33, :I4.5 to :t40. Corvan, 'roreblo domes de, N'oyage of, 47. I'orwin. Thomas, .Speech In the C S. Senate, 1^5. Couch, Capt. .lohn H., 285, :1'28, 470. Couiicil-at Fort Walla Walla. 31'2—.\t Hlg Hend of Rogue River, .'Ml— At Table Rock, 'W to .'1.59- At Fort Boise, 3«l— At Walla Walla, The Malles. Colvllle and Flathead Valley, :WI to :«3— At Wa'.lii Wallo, 4(H 407 -At dak Flat, 112— of the Indies, :il'!i!. See tilno Treat//. Cow Creek Indians, :mi, 401. Cowlitz— Ml.sslon, '((Hi- Settlement, '2:^4, 'i'r?. Co.\— .\nderson, :«)4— .Icsse, .•1.50, :152U— .Joseph, :«l, .'V)2'i;— Thomas and Wllllani, ■sni. Coyle, Reuben s., .').50, ;!.51. (Jozlne, .Samuel, '27.5. Craig— l).W.,;l.51— Col. William, .\merican Trap- per, 232, '277, ::0S, 4.'iK, 40.5. Crawford-Mavld, 283, :!1 l-Medorem, 2ls, '277, .30:t, :«I4. Crelghton. I'apl., 111. crescent City, I'al., 440. Crooks— .John T., .'t-TO. :t->5, 170- Ramsey, Fur Trader, 1.57 to 101, '202. Cuadni. Nie Jioflrf/ri !/ Qwiilra. Culia Coiuiucred. 10. Culver, Samuel H., Indian .Vgent, .3.58. Curry, (iov. George I,., :««, 3'l to ;140, ;i54, .'{.57, :t(!l, :iii:!, .'1.8.8 to ;!!HI, :!ol, 405, 100, III, 41'2, 423, 4:10 to 4:!2, 477. Curtis, Mout., 4(iO. Custom House Established at Astoria, 'B!. Cutmouth .lolin, Cayuse Indian, 31S. I> Daeddlim, English Vessel, 1'21, 120. Dalles. .S>'»; Tlie Ditllen. Darlo, B., .ill. Dart, Dr. Anson, Superintendent ol Indian Altatrs, :!:i8. Davidson, Lieut.. U. S. A., 448. 4Bti. Davis— Capt. H. W , 45l-.Iefrerson C, opposes the Oregon Bill, :^24 to :f27- (apt, John, Voy- age of, .52— Gov. John W.,:HI, ;14.5— Straits, ,52. Dawson, V. W., '27,5, ■280. Day— John, the Hunter, 1-57 to IflO— Lieut, ;!88. Dayton, Town of, :M1. Deadv, Judge Matthew P., 311, ,3-50, :1.51, Xi2%, :i.58, ;il!t. Debt, Indiivn War, 475 to 477. 'leceptlon— ,liay. Ser OiUnuhia /iircr— Passage, I'if. Deer Lodge River. l.'Ki. Defiance, Fort, 110. DeLacy, Capt., 469 to 46:!. De L'Isle, a French Geographer, 08. Delegate to Congress— J. Quinn Thornton, -321— Joseph L. Meek, 322— Samuel R. Tburstou, .%1,3, :W-Jo8eph Lane, :t.'!7, 344, ;14((, a50. VIII HISTOUV OF OKKGOX. Ilemer*, Father Modeste, i!17, 22U, aw, 3fti. Dent, Capf., U.S. A., 47;). De.sCluites— Indians, .'iM, ;W2, rM. 160— River, ;1U. 1 )e8ertlon of IT. H. Troops, ;«(), .■!31, DeStnet, Katlier Peter J., 2:12, 281, .mi, DeSoto Discovers the Mississippi, 2(1. Uesl'aii, Pioneer American Settler, 2:{U. Destruction— Island, 80, «8, 120— Klver, '.W. Dlinnilck, A. K., aOl Disappointment. See Hancock. DlscovervofOold— In California, 329— In Oregon, :i;iO— Near ColvlUe, :«4. Discovery— Port, 12:!— English Vessel, 84 to 90, 118 to 128. Division of Oregon, 312 to in'), 349. Dlxon-Channel, 117— Capt., Voyage of, 9.5. Doll!/, First Vessel built on the Columbia, lo". Dolores. See Destruction, Dominican Missions, IH. Donation r,aw Proposed, 240, 2fil. Donner Parly, the Ill-fated, 298, Donplerri, D., 243. Dorion. Pierre, lo7, 1.59, 104. Doty, N. U., 28.3, 314. Dougherty, William M., 232, 251, 2S2. Dougla.s— County, 337— ,Iames, Chief Factor Hudson's nay Co., 311— Stephen A., 322. Drake—Kay, 3i)l—Sir Francis, Voyage of, 28 to .32, 73. Drewyor Uivor. Sfa Puliiiiac. Drunimond, .sir William, 21.3. Dryer, Thomas .1., Founder of the Oipiinniim, .335, 3")0. 355, .303, 391, 12.'. DuHoy, .lohn B., 480. Duncan, L. .1. ('.,350, .351. Dunglness, N'ew, 123. Dunlap, ,1., .333. Dunn, ,Ino., .\uthor of Hook on Oregon, 235,21.5. Dupratz, I.apagc, French F,.\plorer, (W. Kast India Company, 91, !Hi. Katon, Charles and Nathan, 275. Kbhert, George W., 2.32. I'Ibbotts, S(iulro, 257. 'In. F'-ilgcunib, Mount, 82,87, 115. Education, 177,209,2.50. .Vec MimtiitnK. Edwards, P. I, , 20S, 217, 237— Diary of, iiO. Eells, Rev. Cushlng, 21 1, 20.5, 277. F'.ighl-Dollar Mountain. Battle of, 4.35. KlecUon-lNI3, 2.50-lSll, 281—181.5, 28.5-1810, :tt)0— l.S47,:)03— 1818, 301 1819.333-18)0, 335—1851, 337 — 18.5!, 314-18,51, 311-1855,31(1— April,. lune and October, 18.56, .348, 319— ,luno and November, 1857, 319 lo 351—18.58, 351. Kli.sa, Ijieut. Francisco, Voyage of, 114 to 117. Kikins, l.uther, .350, 355. Kills, Ne/. Perce Chief, 258. Kmlgraiit Routes, 2IS, 274, 277, 283, 289, 298, 302. Emigration to Calll'ornla and i ii-egon, 180, 222 to 221. iS'ce Iinmii/nition. lOmmons, I, lout., V. S. N., 211. Engent, Lieut. .lohn, 313. Eiigllsh-Capt. Levi N., 2SS. 314 to 317-Misrcpre- sentallon of Oregon, 23-5. Encenada. Sfr Amincidn, CWwiano, Ileceta, Enos, an Indian, |.3S, 411, 41(1. Entradado Perez, 117. Epidemic among tlie ('ayuses, ,30,8. Ermatingor, Francis, 210, '!<), Eniuette, a Trapper, 21ii. I'iugerie City, 317 to 319. Eustua, Lieut. , lohn, 4(il. Evans'- Creek, llattle of, .350— Ferry, 371, 30;), Everett, Edward, Minister to England, '291. Ewlng, F. Y.,217. Execution. ISce Jlniuiini/. Executive Committee of Provisional Govern- ment, 254 to 257, '281. E.xpedltlon. Sec Alnrcnit, Jionneiitle, a)n>nado, Kinmonx, Frnnvr, Fremont, French Friilorcm, Hnniiii, Heiirnc, Hunt, Lcicin and Clarke, Mackenzie, AfcLeoit, Mlcliaiu, Ot/den, Pike, iSmilli, i'erendri/es, fVilkct, Wiieth, Younu. ."fee aim ./ottrae.u and \'i>!/riyc. Explorations- by England, 21, '28 to .'t.3, 37 to 41, .52 to .Vi, T2 to 77, 83 to 'M, 93 to 11'2, 118 to 129, 131 to lai, 141, 150, 162 to 168, 1011 lo 171, 11)9 -France, 24, fl« to 72, 18, 115-Holland, 24, ,^3- Portugal, 22, ;« to 36, 98— Russia, .56 to 62. 93— Spain, 18, Si to 27, 33 to 36, 37 to 41, 45 to .51, 77 to *}, 91, 101 to 112, 113 to 115, 117 to 118, I'JIt tfl 125, 127 to 1211-rnlted States, 100 to 108, 115 to 117, 1'2() to 122, 143 to 14,5, 145 to 168, 189 to 2IKi, 214, 277. Falrweather, Mount, 87, 93. Falcon. See Tillamook, Falls. Sec Miasiniri, Willametle, Faralione Islands, 43. P'arrar, Capt. William H., 31-5, ;W0, :»2,>^ 413. Fanhion, Steamer, 451, 153. Favonta, .Spanish Vessel, 91. Felice Adventure, English Vessel, 98 to 101, 10.5. Fellows, Lieut, and tiapt. A. M., 419. Ferrelo, Bartoloine, Voyage of, 2.5 to '28. Fldalgo— Island, 11.5— Lieut. Salvador, Voyage of, 118. Fields-Calvin M., Death of, .370— Pioneer of 1817 Krings Sheep to Oregon in 1817, .301. Flfty-fourforty or tight, 2'i5, 262, '289, 291, 291. Filipiano, Spanish Ves.sel. See San Carlos, Finances in Pioneer Days, 288, 821. Financial History of the Indian Wars, 475 to 477. Fitzgerald, MaJ. in U. S. A., :m, .'176, 309. Fitzhugli, Solomon, .'150, 354. Fitzpatrlck, Thomas, Fur Trader, 202, 218. i Five Crows, Cayuse Chief, '259, 308 to 31,5. F'lags of Schooner Shark, 3(K). I Flathead Indians, 70, '208, 2H1, .182, 179— Mission, 1 232, 306. Flattery. Cape, 79, .S6, 121. Flavel, Capt. George, 310. I Flemmlng, .lohn, 288. Fletcher— Chaplain, Romances of, 30— Francis, '2.W, 219, 277. ■ Flood of 18-53, 311. Florida, lioundarles and Purchase of, (fc5, i«8. Flowers brouglit In 1817, .101. Foiry, .M. 0.,'28(l, Foiite, .Vdmlnil, Voyage of, 42, 8'2. Foot, .Senator, Siiecch against Oregon Rill, .326. Ford, Ephraim,.Iuhii, Marcus, Nathaniel, Nine- vuh and .Minrod, 275, 282, 281, 28.5, 286, .'101, 3.31. Forest -Lieut., V. S. N., 469— .lohn M., 289. Fort. .SV'c Aihle,!/, Anforia, H.'nnett, lioise, Chipe- irt/an, ('Idlsup, Colvltlc, Defiance. Oeorge, Gib- raltar, Hall, llaiis, Henrietta, Henr.u, .Tones, Lamerick, Lane, Leland, Pill, Sleilacoom, Ta.i/lor, Cmiii/iia, Vancouver, Walla \V:t, 277, 47!i. Gearry, r^pokane I'hief, 474. Geer, .1. ('. and Kalph, ;i01. Gelger, Dr. William, 2:^2, 2M, .111. Gllmore, Mat, 27,5, 2S2. Goff-navld, 2S4, 2(t8— Clipt. .\r. I'., 4W to 40:!, 4(1.5. (loin (Goln«), William, Killed by Indians, S74. (told— Beach, Lis to 44(l-lilutr K.xcltement, 7!l —In Calll'omla, .tl, :tai-In Montana, 7(»-ln Oregon, ICU), :!:r7— In Washington, 2X1. (ioodnll, Capt. J. P., :t.5l. Good Hope, Cape of, '22. Goodhue. Samuel, 2!1S. Goodwin. Lieut., 4.5it to 4IW. (Jordon, Captain, :««•, 4;«. Government. See Prorincitil uiul Tiriiloriiil. Governors of Oregon, 25(1, 2S1, 2S.5, 2sn, :!27, .Cit, .■)ll,.l51-Wasliington, :!l:!. (irnnde Konde— Hlvcr and Valley, 1511, 'JI7— liat- tie, 1.5ii. Grant, Captain, H. I!. Co. Agent, 21S, 271. Grave Creek, :i!i I -.Massacre, l«l, :i.5!i. (Sraves, ,1. H., :!.(■!. Gray— Ilarljor, 12(i-Capt. Robert, liHi to lOs, llii, 122~W. H., Mls.slonary, 212, 211, •..51,2;5:i, 251, 25(1, 2(i5, 2(i7, 277. 2H2. Great— Falls of the Missouri, (ill, l:l(i--Salt I.aUe, (17, llll^Hlave Lake, 7li, LSI. (ireen River, liH, 2l:i Greenwood, the Trapper, 'HH. (iregg, Lieut., V. s. .\., 172. (Jregory, ('n|)e, I 111. (Jrler, Ma|. William N ,171. (Jrlllln— Lieut, liurrell li., :i.5t-Rev. .ino. s,. il2, ;t;n. Grlmm,.I. W.,.'it!. (Jrover, Lafayette, ;i.5(), :!.51, :i.55, ■■m, I7ti. II Haines, VIelim of Rogue Ulver Massacre, .'(7.5. Hakluyt, the Geograplur, 2il, 41. Hall -Fort, 211.5, 2l:!, 214, 271, 2!«. 2i«t, .T2.S— .lohn H. and Sylvester, .HI— Capt. Lawrence, :!(l(), .ll:) (0 317. Haller, .Maj. G. ()., :t(l2 to 3(14, 3S7, :W2, 3il8, 4()8, 125, lis. Hamilton- I'ldward, 31.5- A Victim of Rogue .liver Massacre, 374. Hancock, Cape (Disappointment, San lioque), sl,im. 11(1, 122, l:i7. Hnnd, Lieut. 4111. Hn.iglng of Indians— by Clarke In IS13, Kil— In Uogue Ulver X'alley In lSi5:t, 3.51— Ily MaJ. Ilaller In 1S^54, 3(>l— At Cascades In IH.55, 452— Hv Col. Wright in 1S.58, 474— Whitman Mur- derers, 318. Hauna, .lames, Kxpedltlon of, 113. Haunon, Lieut., 4111. Hanover, New, 127. Harding, Ilenl. F., 344 to 347. Harding and Rose, killed by Indians, 3.5). Harrngus, 11., 27(1,282. Haro— Canni de Lopez de, 114— Lieut. Gon/.alo. Voyage of, 102 to l(l7-Rlo de, 43. Harris— Captain, 3WI— Massacre, 37.5— .Mosos, 21W. Hastings, L. W., 24H,2;52. Haswell, Robert, Diary of, I Hi, 121. Hatch, Peter H., 277, 2S2. Hathaway, Kellx, 277, 2«.l, 479. Hawaiian (Sandwich) Islands, 8(i, 80, 101, 127, 148. Hawchurst (Hoxhurst), Weberly, 230." Hays- Fort, 4:{.5,4.i(l-Capt. Gllmore, 372, 105, 107. 42.5, 420. Hay II Con<|uered, 10. Headrick, brings Sheep In 1847, 301. Hearne, Samuel, Journey of, 7(1. Heath, Luolen, 351. Heceta— Capt. Bruno, Voyage of, 70 to 82— Inlet. 81, 119. Hedges, A, F., 284, .301. Hellgate River, l.SO, 42.3. Hembree— Capi . A. J., 275, 282, 285, .300, 3(«, .1.33. 408, 428— Andrew, .lames and .L .1., 275. Hendershott, Sidney B.. .3.50, .3.55. Hendrlck, Abljah, 27.5. 28(1. Henncss, Capt. B. L.,4.58 to 40.3. Henrietta, Fort, 411, 413, 410. Henry, Fort, 145, 1.57, 101. Hensley, Thomas .1., 27(1. Herren, William .!., 2so. Her8en,.Iohn, 314. Hill— Almoran,27(l-I)avid, 254, 25(i, l:s2, 28(1, 303, .333— Thomas. AVc Tom Hill. Hlllsboro, 34.5. Hlnes, Rev. fJustavus, 232. 242, 2ti, 2i5l, 2.55, 277. Hlnmiin, .Manson, 284. Holbrook, Amory, 3.34. Holden, Horace, 28.5. Holderness, S. M., 270. .3J8. Holman— I). S , 27(i-.Josepli I)., 284, 3.W. Holme-s— H. X. V., .Til- Will lam L.. 275, 282 Hood— Mount, 12(i-Canal, 123. Hoover, Jaciob, 284. Hope, American Vessel, 121. Horn, Cape, T).!. Hoult, Enoch, .3.50, :V51. Howard, .lolin, 257. Howlson, Commandci' of IT. s. Schooner S'IkiiI:, .300 Howllsli-Wampoo, Cayuse Chief, 410. Hoxhurst. 'See /raiechiii:sl. Hubbard, 'I homas .1., 220, 233, 253, 254, 277, 180. Hudson -Bay, 22, 3.5, ">3, (1.5, 70— Hay Co., 22, .5:1, 51, 7(1, 83, 01, 131, 144. Uifl to 178, 18(1 to 20(1, 227, 234, 211, 255, 200, 208, ,Ti4, ,370, 380, 4()»-(Japl. Henry, Voyage of, .53— Capt. Thomas, 10.5. Hull, Charles W., death of. 402. Humboldt— Bay, 48— River, 2(K). Humbug War, .371. Humphrey', L. A., 3:t3. Hungry Hill, Battle of, 3IMi to .'t08. Hunt, Wilson Price, .lourney of, 151, 1.57, 104. Hunter, Lieut , Kil, 102. Husted, A., 27(1, 30.3. Icy Cape, S8. Idc, William B , 28.8. Illinois River, 441. Immigrating to Oregon, Reasons for, 241, 2(10 to 2(12, 273. I Immigration— 18:10 and 184(1, 2.32, 177— 1811, 215 to 247,477-1842, 2,i.S, 217 to 251, 477-1813, 237, iiN, ; 200 to 270, 3IMI, 477- 1844, 2.38, 283, 477-184.5, 288, ! 477— 1810, 21)7— 1847, ,301,30.3, 478-1848, 470-1852, : 310. I Immigrants and the Hudson's Hay Co., 2iO, 2:11 I to 211 1 Imperial Kaf/le, Austrian Vessel, 07. ' Ineas, Subjugation of the, 20. I Indian— Agents and Huperlntendents, :!.3r), 3.18, ; .344, :t.57, :i.58, .302, .380 to :}S7, 4011, 414, 431, 430, 442, 4.50,402,4114, 407— Ocean, 22-Reservatlons, :l,57, :t80 to :W,3, 4:14, 438, 44ft— Treaties, 258, :W1, .3.38, .358, 3<0 to .385, 400, 412, 447, 407. Indian Wars— Causes of, 2">8, 270— Cayuse, :10.5 to 318-Columbla River, mto to 1858, 370 to :103, 40.5 to 4;«, 417 to 477- Humbug, 371-Puget Hound, :«I7, 420, 108— Uogue River, 18.51, m~ 1852, ,3;w,:i;io— 18.51, :t.>3 to m), 425~ia5i, 301,475 — 185.5-ri(l, :t(1.5 to .370, 104 to 103, 4;t3 to 440, 475- Debt, :i(l(), 475 to 477— Veterans. Nee Volun- teera. Indians. .Ste f Vwcnrfp, Oiyuse, Chinook, Clalnop, Oxuit, Oneiir W Alene, fbic Creek, Diilles, Dea ChiUei, Flalhead, John Day, Klamath, Kliek- X HTSTOKY OK OKKOOX. Hal, Mandan, AIuiluv, MnlitlUi, Xi'Z J'ercc, .\ootka. Northern, Palnunp, Hslnl fiiver, Paget Noiind, Rogue River, Snake, Spokane, Tilla- mook, Tugii, I'matilla, I'liipiiiiri, Walfa ]\'all(i, M'a.ico, Vakima. ludieH, Kast, '22, aii, LT. Indignation Meeting In rorlland in 1S.'>I, .{(tt. Ingalls, Capt. (Oen.) Hufus, 47(i. Ineraham, Capt., 121. Jnlet. iSee Admlrallu, HurrartI, liiile, Onok's, II<- ceta, Knight's, Portland, Hirer.', Smith'x. Ipheuenia Nxtbiuna, Kngllsh Vessel, IIS to 10.5. Irving, Washington, \vorks on Oregon, 152, I.V!, l.j», 'Mo. Isaac 'Ihdd, Kngllsh Vessel, 11)2. Islands, British Columbia and Alaska, '.>;!, tl"). See Aleutian, Hehring'.i, flriidford'-i, C\^iill Jeannvtte, American iSchooncr, ;i2S. .lefferson. President Thomas, I.W, IW, l.Vi. JetTreys, Thomas, aw. Jefftlcs, Meut., 11!). .Tennie dark, Htoamer, -l.')!. .Jenny, Kngllsh Hrip, 120. .lennings, It., .ll'l. .lesuit Missions, n4. Jewells Ferry .Vltuckert by Indians, .!;i. Joe Lewis, Indian (Jonsplrator, .KIT to :!11. Joe, Hogue lUver Chief, :ir)7 to Mw. .lohn. Rogue Kivcr Cliief, ^n, .«•.">, ll«. III to HH. John DHy— Indians, .■W2. MKl-IUver, l:«i, liii, 2H!i, 4m-Baltle of. :!17. Joint Occupation, liiS, I.S.5 to 2 Ki. 2!M, •£):,. Johnson— Daniel, David and James, 2K1— over- Ion, 27H,iS2-\Vllilani. 2:ii, 2l:i, 277. Johnstone's .Straits, 121. Jones -Hen, I.W— Capt., 1'. s. \ 11(1 to ll.!-Fort, •'Ml, .IVi— Victim of Hogue liivor .Massacre, M74— John, 27t!, -iiW. Joseph, Nez Perce CI;*ol',:r)S, :!,S2. .Tournaiisni, Sec Sewspapers. Journey. iS'cc Carver, fraser, Jleanic, Lii lion- tan. Lane, Lcdyard, Meek, Overland, Pilrher, Pike, Whitman: see also KroedHion and I'n/i- age. Judali, Capt. H. M , ■KiS, :«ii). Judges of the Provisional Government and Su- preme Court, •2:t.'l. 218, 2.")7, 'JSl, ^K.-), :t2l, .■!2S, :l.t.-|, ■ll't, 311, 3."!l. Judson. Uev. I,. U., 2.'!2, 211, 2.")7, '277. Juinp-olt-Joc Kivcr, \W. K Kaih-Kalh-Koosh HIver. Sie Clearu-ater. Kama-l-akun, Yakima < lii.'f, :wii, :Wlto.!li:l, r.li, 42), 42i), 4')(1. 4.")S, Hi.-.. Kanilah Mission, 211. Kamlchatku, '>H, mi. Kaut/,, Meut. A. V..:ri7, :iii(l. Kayser. See Keizer Kearney, Oen. Phil,;iW Keene, Uranville, Murder of, :>7a. Keeney, Capt. Jonathan, 3'.Ki, 1 1 !. Keith— Capl. b. W'., •2:12— .Vgenl of Northwest Co., 107. Kel/.er, T. D., W2, 270, 2S0, 282. Kelley, Hall J., '221, 22-), '.'■20. Kelly, Col. James K , ;l.Ml,:i."il,:i.')l, 111, in to ir. Kelsay, Col. John, .'W), :!.V>, 4-21, 1.10 to i:W. Kendrick, Capt. John, X'oyago of, IIHI lo II H, I l"i, 110. Kllbourn,3.tl. Killen, 1) , 477. Klm-so-etnlin River. iSV'c Tukannon. King (leorge III— Archipelago, 8'2— English ves- sel, ll.'i—" Men and lloslons," 1110, 11)7— Sound. Ike A'ootA-ei— Sound Co., I).'), 105. King, \V. M.,'«t Kings, River of, 42, 47, 50, 07, m, S7, 1 10, 1 17. KInnev, Robert C, Il'W, ^lO, .'iiio. Klamath— Indians, .■«)'2— River, :t37. Klickitat— Indians, 4tt5, 448 to 4.>1, 4.">'*— Valley 421). Knighton, H. M., 28.5, ".2S. Knight's Inlet, I'il. Knox, ',. n.,31.!. Kone, Rev, W. W., 28'2. Koos-k 221, 2:«l, 242, 213, 251, •2.V!, '277, 280. Legislature-- 1st!, -251—1811, ■2S2-I.1I.5. 285 to '288- 1810, :ll)0— IS17. 3 II— 1818. :101-I81!I. 3)3—18.51), :«5 -18.52, 312-18.5.3, 341—1851, :)I5-K5.5, 317— 18V), :)40 1^57, :l.51— 1858, .151, :ri'2. I.cland, Fort, 4:10. 4:!S. L', nl Leoti. or Ihe Prairie Flower, 2:12. Lenox, I), or K.. 270, 280. Leslie, Rev. David. 217, 213, '251, '277. Lewis— (,'ounty, 2so -Hainan ('., .'1.50, :!52'i,— Joe. See .foe //eic;.i— Capt. .Meriwether, l:tl to li:l— Reuben, 210, '257, 277— River. See Snake- capt. William B., :tii>-n. R.. 178. Lewis and Clarke's F.xpedltlon, 1:11 lo li:i. Lexington, on Clatsop Plains, :t:il. Linn -City, 311-Seiuitor Lewis F., 210, 21.5. •240. Linnvilie, II.,:iOI. Llmpy, Rogue River Cliicl,:l7l.:)li5, |:i5, III, 115. LIttleJohn, P. B., il2. Little Meadows 1:10. Lock, Michael, Narrative of. :t7, Logan, David, .'1.511, .1,51. Lolo Trail, I.'IO, 141. Long Dr. John K., 270, 281, 28:1, i;.s5. Looking Olass-Nez Perce Clilef,:l8J-\'alley, lol. Lookout Cape. See Tillamook. Looney, .lesse, '270, :100. Loretto, Mission of, 01. Luring, Col., .'tit. Los Angeles, Port, ill. Lot Whitcomh, Steamer, :i:lO, 311. Louisiana, Province 01,0.5. 71, l:lO, 1:12, 1:14. 141. l,ove|oy, .\. Lawrence, 218, 20:1, 201), 2+2, 2.S.5, 280, •.m, :10I, :«1, :t.50, .3r>4. Lower California, 10, 51, 01. Lownsdale, I). II.. :1IM). Lneler, Ktlnne, 11)0, 220, -."M, '243, '2.5:1, 48ii. Luelling, Henderson, Traveling Nursery of, :)01. LuptoD, MaJ. Jas. A., Death of, :I7: Lydia, Aniericun Vessel, 1:18. (iENERAL INDKX. M Mackenzie, Alexander, Journey of, and Uiver, 131. Madrid, Treaty of, VM. Magellan-Vovagp of, 111— Straits, l!i, S\, 2M. Magistrates. Ifee Judf/es. Magone, .Joseph, ;il2. Magruder, Kd. and Theoplillus, 2'tl, :I2-I, .'I'll. .Vlulesplna, Voyage of, ll.'i. .Vlaldonp.do, Capt. Lorenzo Ferrer de, N'oviige of, ;« to ;«!. Maley, \V., :»'t. Maloney, ('apt. M., .'W7, 407, WH, l>.\ IL'ii. Mandan Indians, lil, IVt. .Maqutna, Nootka Chier.ilS, llii. Marco Polo's Travels, IS Marlon— County, :i.'W— (Jf the Mexican War, :tT. Marple, P. H., m, :iV,. .Marshal. See Unil--U Stalex Mamhiil. Marshall, Jas. W., Discoverer of liold In Cali- fornia, 2M, 3:il. Martin, Col. William J , '.Til, .'t(M, 314, •t.'i.s, 3!iil, :!!H», Martinez— Cape. Sec Flatlpry—F.iiUsnn, Vciyiige of, 78, lO-i to 107. Mary, Hteamer, SXi, 44H to 4.>'i. Mary Dacret, American brig, 204. Mari/land, American brig, 244. Mary's Hlver. See Humboldt. .Marysville. fiee CorvalCh. Mason, Oov. Charles H., 343, :184, ;W«, 40-), ii'i. Massacre -Cove, lit)— ofSmllh's Trappers In IH27, 1!W, im to KW— of Pilcher's Trappers, '201— of Dr. Bailey's Party In l«3.i, ^-iO-of Indians at Oregon City, 2H0— of Immigrants by Modocs, .'ttit-ot Kogue River Indians In IS.'Vi, .'V).'!— of Hose and Harding in 18-")3, .'loJ— at Grave Creek In ia>3, 330— Bates House In lS.-)3, .TiO- of Ward Family by Hnake Indians, 3ill— of Phillips In 1S.-14, .S«!l-of Fields, Cunnlgbam and Werner In iHTyi, :i70— of Hill, Plillpot, Dyer and McCue, in ISV), .'!7l~-ol Indians by r.uptonandHaysIn 18-V>, 372-of Uogne Itivcr Valley Settlers in Wr,, 374 to 37«-or .Mattlco and Holan by Y ak I mas, .'W-'i, :i.so, 3!KI— of In- dians in Looking Glass Valley, 40l— of Kogue River Indians In IH.>>, 401— ol Peu-peu-mox- mox, 417 to 4l»-at Seattle, 420 -at (4(>ld Beach, 430— at Cascades, .'I'W to 44H. Nn iilxo Whitman. Matlock, W. T., 32S, :«!. Matthleu, F. X., 248, 2.57, 277, '.S'i, '280. Mattlce, Murder of, :t8.). MatEger, William, :»>. 3>1. Maurelle, Voyage of, 70 to 82, 01. Mauzey, William. 27(1, Maxon, MaJ. H. J. O., 313 to 317, Mc.Vuliff, Lieut. .lames A., 410. McBean-.Iohn, 414, U.5-Wllilam, 311. McBrlde— James, 3'2S— John R., Itto, 3.V). .McCarty, William, 244, •2,")7, '277. McCarver, Gen. M. M., 237, 270, 282, '287, .'ilHt. McClane, John B., '270. McCloud (.McLeod) River, 200. McClure, Joiin, 2?7, '2*1. McCormick, 'Wl, .'tol. McDanlel, Elisha P., '284. McDermIt, Capt. Chas,, 330. McDonald, Angus, 3110. McDougal, Duncan, 1.51, 1,511, 1(10, 1(13. .McFOlroy, T. F., 343. McFadden, Judge O. B., 31'!, 341. McGruder. See Mngrutler. McKay— Alexander, 1.51, 1.5!!, 218, 313-Charlos, 277, 313, 31.5- John, '248- Thomas, 1.51, 10.5, 1!KI, 2.58, •2((.'l, 277, "■-. '"" , lo 317-William ('., 1,51, '2(«,;- .11. McKean, S. r ., :13.3. .McKenzle, Donald, 131, 1(11, \M. McKlnlay, Arclilbuld, •Z58, 2S(). McLaren, Lieut. R. N., 1.54. McLean, Judge John XVi. McLellan, Robert, 137 to 101. McLeod, Kxpedltion of, 108, 21'J. Mctoughlln— Dr. John. 10.5 to 100, 200, '212. 228, 'Jtl, •J3(l, 244, 210, '2.52, 2,50 -Joe, 100, 210-Mounl. ISvc Shantii. m, I.5S to urn. McRoy, (;., 2.5.3, '2.57. McTavlsh, J. Q.. I(p'2, 1(13. Meadows Campaign, .'(90, 4,'!0 to 488, 442. Meares, Capt .John, Voyages of, 05 to 112, 1*25. .Medical Lake, 47.'!. Meek-Joseph L.. 232, 240. 2.51, 257, '277, 281, 285, :iOrt, 3a3, .■!'22, 327, 33:1, :»5-Stephen IL, 248, 280. Meigs, C. R., .'1.50, •■m. Memorial-to Congress In Wil, 2'i't— of 1810,21.5— Ofl8l3,2.50-Cln('innatl in 1843, '202- of '.tregon Legislature In I8.5'2, .'I4;i— of Montlcello Con- vention, :t4.'t— of Cayuses to Americins, 317— to Congress In 1848, .')22— about Gen. Wool, i-£i. Mendocino, Cape, 2(1, 70. 118. Medoza— .\ntonlc de. 2.5— Pedro. 19. Merchfnitman, American Schooner, 3.10. Mctcalf, Robert, Indian .\gent, ;).57. .Methodist M Issions, 208 to '221, •2;tl , 2:12, 2.50, 258, 280. Mexicana, Spanish Vessel, 117, r2'3. Mexico- Coniiuered by Cortez, 10— War with, 205. MIchaux, .\ndre, Kxpedltion of, l.'{4. Militia. Sen Volunleim. .Mlller-Capt. Rluford, i:>8 to 4(.'i-Capt. John F., 351 to.SliO— Jo.seph, 1.5V— Richard, .'W), .1.55. .Mills, Pioneer Grist and Saw, 177, 2'i3, Milton, Town of, .'t'i3. Mllwaukle, Town of, :U'!, 3;i.5, 310. MInto, Jol)n,2vi, 281, Missions, Caliiolic. Sec .Anif i lean liotiril, Call - fnrnta, Coeiir it' Alenc, Dominican, flathead, Fraiieincun, h'leiirh J^rniiic, .Tcnuit, Kamiuli, iMpivai, Lorelio, Melhodixl, Snake Hiver, S/io- kane, J lie Dallcx, l/inritillii, Vancouver, Wrii- latpu, ydAci'nw— Contllctliig interest' and Controversy, 218 to 221, '23?, StU, '281, .ilk' to 311. .Mlssl»8lp|)l River, 08, 72. Missouri— Fur Company, 1 15, 101 — River. Oil, Oi, 00,71,72, 135, 11'.'. Modoc Indians, .'Ml, 300, 301. .Molalln Indians, 270. Moiu'y used in Oregon, 2)0, 288, 3!0. .Mono Lake, 1!I3. Monroe— Doctrine, 180— President, Message of I8'2;t, 180— Judge Victor, 313. Montana Kxplored by the Verendryes, lio, 70— by Lewis and Clarke, 130, 1 12. Monterey Harbor, 47, 31. Montezuma Conquered, 10. Montgomery- Camp, 4.57 Cu|)t. I', .s. N., :U2— Port, 122. Montlcello Convention, 313. Moore— M., '284— Robert, 'J.'U, •2:i't, 213, '251, '277- Lieut. W. A., 300. Moores, Isaac R., 330, 3.54. .Morera's .lourne.v troin Oregon to Mexico in 1.578, 80. Morrlson-J. L., '240, 277, •280-R, W., -281. Moslier, Capt. L. F., 3.5s. .Moss, S. W., '241, 277, 285. .Mount. See JIakcr, Kilgecuuih, Fairweatlivv, Hooil, Mcl.ouiihlin, Olympus, Hainier, Shasta, Siskiyou, SI. Helens, St. Klias, San Jacinto. Mountains, see Blue, Bitter Hoot, Canyon, Cas- caite. Roeku. MucklcHhoot Prairie, 4'20. Mulkey, .1. L., :«)!, 3W. Multnomah— county, 303— Origin of Name. I.'IO— River. See Willamette. Munger, Rev. .Vsahel, '2;i'2. .Munkurs, F. M.,314. Munson.Capt. Lynuin B., IP 117 to 120. Murderers' liarbor, 101. Musselshell River, 70. .Myths of Oregon History, lire Anian, Qtrrer, Cibola, Ii\>nte, Fuc.a, Maldonado, Quivira, Wliitman. Natdiess— Pass, 3(*'2, 107, 125, 4.'i()— River, 1.50. National Jnielligpnecr, Gen Wool's letter in, 380, 423. Neah Bay, 111, 118, 121, 125. Net', .\lexander,.\tley (Olday), Calvlii, George, Peter and Robert, 281. Negro Slavery. See Slavery. Nelson, George and J. C, 'JKU XI r IIISTOKY OF OKK(J0N. N'esinlUi, Oen. James W., -T:!. ;;i i,;Kt, 3H, .'W, -un, h; to ii.-i JS-J. 3i- .11, 11! I. as7, .'J 1 1, Xesciuaily .Mission and Settlement, •-'Ji, iltl. \e\\ — Albion, a», .'il, Tli, s.->, Sti— Caledonia, Ill- Cornwall. I'iT— Dnnginess, 12:{-s, :ui!i, :!I2, :W2. lii, 421, j:)7. 4.">H, 4B2, 4(>.'>, 4(>(>, 171, 17:!. .N'iehols— H. »., ■■ir*>, T.")— Henlaniln. .John and Frank, 2S4. Nicholson, I'ioneer of ISKi, 212. .Noble, .lolin F.,'!<>2. Noland, ('apt., HI. Noinen<-latiire of Hie I'ai'ilic Coast, 7S to S2, Sil loHS, !i!l, 12:! to 127. i:«i, lil!i, 2Ji. Nookanils, Newetee Chief, IV!. Nootka- -Controversy, lis to lili— Convention, ill — Fnglisli Vessel, !lii- Indians. .S7. !'>:!— Sound. 7X, .S7, ii:!. !« to nil, Ul:| to Ills, Us, 122. 121. 127 fo 12!l. North— Cape, H«— Sea. See Arctic. Northern Indians Invade I'ufiet Sound. :H17, 42ti, 4(kS. .NortlK-rn (Iregon. Sec M'ashini/lon. ?forthire.it America. First Vessel built on North- west Coast, 101 to 12.">. Northwest -Company, i:!l. 111. l"i(i, 1(12, loo, looto 171— Passage, 21 lois. :l:i to .")0, -c' to .'i7. 71. 70, Si, SO, S7, 111, !>:!, '.I'l, ll"i, 1 17, 127, 1:11. Notre Dame, sisters ol', 2S|. Novus Muiulus (.\inerioa). 22. Nuevo Hispanola (.Me.xieoi, I'.i. Nunez Uaona, Porto. Sec .Vr«/i Jluii. Nursery, 'I'rHveiing of, 1S|7, :!01. (I Dak Flat Council, 112, 111. Oak Point, 140. Oatnian. 11. It., :r70. OBryant, H. |).,:il:l. Ocean. See Arctic ami I\icific. ot11<'ers of Oregon Provisional liovernnienl 1S4:I, 2.")!, 2i7— ISI4,2S1, 2'i2— Isl"), ■js.'i-isio, :liii, 1S47. ;!IW-1S4S, :U)I, .,2S— Territorial (Jovern- inent, ISIH, :i2S, .tt.!— IS-'iO. :!:i.-.-l.s.-.l, .il?- LvVl. :1H— ISM, ;il.">— Slate (JoverninenI, isw, :i)l — of Washington, First, .li:). Ogden— Peter skeen, ;iNi,. {12— Itiver. .SVp Ilum- boldl. Okanogan Fort and Itlver, l.">7. Okotsk, Gult of, .'17. (Md .John, Ho^ue Pivert hief, :j.'il. Olds, M. or \V., .Wl, .tV.. Olley, Ke\'. .\. P.,2!2. Olney— .ludge Cyrus, .'!ll,:!."m, :rr>— Nallian, 310, .302, 4IKI to 41.">. Olyiiipla, 34:!. Olympus, .Mount, 7S, 12il. o'Aleara, James, :l'il. O Neal, Capt. Hugh, Kt!, |:!:ilo 1.3"). O'Nell, James A., 22.1, 2M lo 2)0. Ontario, American War Vessel, 10."), 107. Orchard, Port, 121. Ord, Capt. K. O. C 122, tlO to 41!. Oregon— Admission of, .tM, :!.")2-.\nierlean Soci- ety for the Settlement of, '221- Hills in Con- gress, 21.'), :!24 to 327, .■iV2— Citv. 21:!, 2:!S, 211. 2411, 2')4, 277, ISO, 2S:l, :!l!l, 317- Discovery of, 20 —E.xchange Company, .3:4:1— First Settlement of, 14,"), 22!l, 23«)-Iustltute, 2")1 -Origin of Name, 72 to 1711 to I.Si" ' Klver, 117 : to 70- IJuestlon, 1:1:!, 144, 101 to lOS, 1711 to I.So, 2;il, 272,, 2!HI to 2!I7- ititles, :!12- r:l. Sec Columbia Spectator. :!0 1- Hteamer, 42:!-" Style " of Journalism. :i:>0, 422, 42S- -Territory Organized, :!i!i to :UI. Oreuonian, Tli(,:W>, .t47,:!(5.3, 3ill, 11.3, 4l!l, 121 to 121, i:«). orford— Cape, lUl Port, :i;l!l, ;fiMl, 4:l», 440, 443, (111. Otondo, .Xdmiral Don Isdrode, ,jl. ounalaska Island, SH, 102. Overland Journeys. 131, i:W to 14.3, l.'>7 lo 100, 101, I!r2 to lill, 2IHI. 201 to 1.04, 2IIS, 210 to 214, 217, 22"i, :140 lo-.."yi. 200 to277, 2SS to Jill, 2il!l, :KII lo -Ml, .322 to •321, 340, 311. Owens, Ca|)t. F-llas .\.,:l;")l to ;!(10 -('apt. James W., 31:!— John, 2si, 21ls— I lioinas, 270. owhi, Yakima Chief, 474. I' Pacilio— City. :'vl2— Fur Co., iriO lo HI.")- Ocean, l!l, •2:!, 01, s.")— .Spain's Monopoly ot the, 27— Tele- graph Co., :147. Packwood, William H., .liO, :r>-). Palmer. (Jen. Joel 1.., 2S0, :!1.3, :!44, .3")8, .3H0 to 3.h:\. +11, 442, 407 Palouse -Indians, 101, :!S0 410, 420,400,470,474— Klver, l:f7, 4-2s. I'ambrun, P C., -2(0, 212, 21:i, 247. Parker— S., .ttl-Dr. Samuel, 210 to 212, 21!t, 271 — William (J., 270, 2IK Parmentler Hiver, 4:1. Parrlsh. Kev. Joslah 1... 2:12, 213, 2.")!, 2">l, 277. Pataha River, 141. •Pathfinder. •277. Patit Klver, ill. Patton. K.,:iol. Payne, J. K.,311. I'eace Klver, 1:!1. /liW/ar, .\mcrican Itrig, loi. I'eebles, J. C, :i'iO, :!.">">. Peers, Henrv, .100. ;liM. Pend d' Oreille Kiver, l:iO, :! 0. :IS4. I'oe-peo-inox-mox, Walla Walla Chief, l-'W, 2jii, .■!S1, Kril, 411 to 410. P'-rez- Juan, Voyage ol, 7s, 70— Fntrada de, 117. Perils, Cape of, 20. Perkins, Kev. H. K. W., 217, 277, 27!l. Perry. W. T.,'277. 2S2. Peru (Conquered, 10. Petroiiaulovski, SO. Petiygrove, F. W., 277. Philip 11 and III of S|iain, |.~). lit. Philippine Islands, '27. Phillips, Kdward. .Murder ol, :10!I. PichlingueR. Sec hreebontcrii. Pickett, Charles K., 270, 2*0. I'ierce— President Franklin, :i4:!— Meiil. Thos r2!i. I'ierre Jerome, Indian Chief, :lS."i. Pike, .lournev of liieut., 1 i:l. Pilclier, Maj., .lourney of, 200, 213. Pillow, Lieut. C. H., 41(1. Pistol Kiver Indians, llii, ll."i. Pitt, Fort, 100. I'izarro, Francisco, Con. rort.«mou:!, 4.")4, 4.")0 to 4t):i Prattler, Theodore and William, 'iX\. I'ratt, Judge o. C., .■l'2s. Prevost, J. H., I'nili'il States CominisHloner, 10" to 107. I'rigg, Frederick, 270, 28"). ' Prim, Judge I'. P., :i."ili, I'll. mmma (iKNKi:AI, INDKX. \ 1 1 1 Princena Rt', Iii2. I'rintinK I'ress, First In Oregon, 21'). Prllchott, Klnl/.lntf, .'KS. rroelamatlon— (iov. Curry, IH.').), :W!1— (iov. Lane, 1H4!1, :i28— Oov. Mason, IS.>), ;i8it— Col. Steptoe, Kill— Gov. Stevens, .{11. Protestant Missions, 207 to 221, 2.V, ■.m to :il2. I'rovlslonal Government, 211 to 2')7, 27!) to ^iill, .11 S to ;i2H. PuKh.Capt. W. r.,:!l:!, •'ill. I'uget Sound, 111, 123— AKricultural Co.. 2:U— In- dian War, 4a% 42(i, lliS-Settlement, 28.'). y Quadra (Cuadra) Island, 12"). .Sec hotlegu. tJueeu Charlotte -Kngllsh vessel,!).')— Islands, 7H, IK), 117— .Sound, 121. Quimper, Lieut. Manuel, Voyase i.l'. 111. Uulvlra, Mythical City of, •£>, r*^. K Haboln, Louis, :wn. Kaceoim, Kngllsh War vessel, Hl^i. Ualnes, Ma|. 7, 72, 7:t, Ill-Colony, 2:14. 2i).'t— ImmlKrants, 217. Keed-Ar. H., .Wi, ;!.")l— .lacob, 2(>s, 27(l-.l<)lin, Mas- .sacreof, 1(12. 1(U.— T. .\.,.'i7.'). Kees, Wlllard II., 2H;t, 2S4. :«).!. Regulars, XU, XiH, H21 to :t.">K. .'««, :i7(), :!.S(i to :;sK, Kn to4(W, 112, 121 to 12:1, HO to III, 110 lo |.->.!, IV>, Id.! to 17."). Hellefof Immigrants of W)2, .'111. Hemick, W. C, 277, 282. Keniond, Narclsse, 410, 412, 42 I. Representative to Congress, .'t.")l . Republic, Steamer. IJ;!. Reservation, Indian— Ne/ Peree, .">y.'— Rogue River, .tlN— Sllet/,, |:il— Table lloi'k, :l() l- I'matllla, :!H0— Warm Springs, :K2— Wallii Walla, .'WO-Yaklma, .180. Resolution, Capt. Cook's vessel, .SI to!Kl. Revilla-Olgedo, Viceroy of .Mexico, 107, II.'), 127. Reyes, Itio de los. See Kmq's Riyir. Reynolds, (apt., I", s. \.. I.ts. 440, 11.!. Ulee— Capt. 10. A.. :1.'>1, |i«. i:tl— L. A., 2si, :!:i|- Settlement, KHi. Richards, R<'V. G. P., 2 12. lilchard.son, .lohn, 27ii, 2Sii. Rlggs, .lames H. and Kufus .V., 2Ss. RIneiirson, Capt. .lacob S., :l|:!, .■!7(), :17!I, :iOli. Rio. Sei' Aguiliir, JU'ih^i, Ilaro, Hepos, HIver. iSVc Aiiuilar, Ahliinum, Alpoua, Anifii- cnii, Ansinlhiiine, limivt VisUi, liuriil, Vltirki's Fork, Polovoilo, Volumliia, (\>}iiiirmi)ii\ Co- iiuitlf. Deer Lml/ie, Dis Chutes, Dniiner, TJes- tmrtion, Frasrr, Grien, Huro, Jlcll Giitf, J ' umlmldt , Illinois, ,Iumii-off-Jiii', Muckemif, M'lrn's, McClouil or Mcf.eoU, Mis.iissip)}!, .l/i,«- inuri, Mii'. I'., :!7I. Robertson, Capt., t:l4. Robie, .\. 11., Indian .\gent, I")!!. 102. Robin's Nest, 2:«. Robinson, ,1., .104. Rocky Mountains, (i(),(l!l, 70, 71, l:ll-l''ur Co., Mil to2!K). Rogers— A. !•',, ;ii;t— tlornellus, 211— Lewis, :iO|. Rogue River, .•)0, lim,. 1:17, IIW, i:li(, 118 to 410— In- dians, WMi, :»7, :«0, ;»l to .itiO, .'Ui7 to :177, .•ltt4 to -Wushing- lO.i. 4:«l."), 70, 102 to 101,111. Sand Hollows, Rattle of, 31 1. San Diego, 47, ")1. Sand Island, 340. Sandwich Islands. See Jfairuiitin. San Francisco Ray and City, .10, 17, 18, 01, S3, 201, .3311, .3;)3. San .Tiiclnto, Mount, s'>. San .Tuaii .\rchlpelago. 111. San Lorenzo. See Noolkti. San Luciis, Cape, 21. San liiientln, 17. Si,in Roi|Ue, Cape, .^l .S'rc J/iimvck. Han Sebastian, Cap''. 18. Santa Cruz— Lowe^r California, III. 21 Ion. See Xeir Punginess. Santa Rosalia, Mount.' iVec Olympus. S mill Salurnlnii, .Spanish vessel. 111. Snntiiigo, Spanish ves.sel, 78, 70. Saskatchewan River, 07, 70, 71, 131. Satas Creek, 42!l. Satton, ('., 2S0. Sauvles Island, 130, 2ir,. Savage, M. L.,3C1. Schlellclin, Clinton. 371. Sciiumagim Islands, ss. Scott— .lohn, 284. 20.S— ( apt. L<'Vl, 281, 2ilS, :)03, 3.")0, ;).");")— River, -m. Scottsburg. 3.37, 377. Scurvy, Ravages of the, 21, 20. 17, 48, 10, .").S, 78, 01, 07. Sea. See Ilehring, Onies, IV'irlU, South, Vermilion. Sea Otter. lOngllsh vessel, 0(1. Seal lie, 120,427. Secretary of Oregon, 282, 2S."), — Washington, .343. Selkirk Settlement, 170. Semmes, Lletil , I'. S. N., 400. Semple, Speech of Gen., 2(>2. Senators, I iilted stales, 3.')1. Sentinel, ,Iacksonvllle, 372, 13.'). Serra, Father .lunlpero, 01. .Sett liTS and the Hudson's Day ( ■i>.,227 to 230, 234 237 to 2.!!l. 211,217. shadden, Thos. ,1.. 210 to 2'jl. Shannon— Davis, 3")!), .).").")- W., .■!.3.!. Shark, \'. S. Si'liooncr, wrecked, .300. .Shasta— Hutle City. .SVc I'rcte- Mount Shalt uck,.ludgc !•:. D. , .•!.")0, .I.-)."). Shaw— A. '.'. R., 2s|-Col. II. F.,284, 421, 4 — Dr., 410- .losluia, 281— Thomas C, —Washington, 2S|— Cai)t ShefHeld, Capt., 111. shelton, Isaac, Killed by Indians shepard, ( 'y rus, 208. 210, 217. Sheridan, Lieut., Philip H., 107, l.")l to 4"v). sherlll', Capt., Kngllsh Conimlsslonor, 1(17 Shields, ,Iames, .Wl, iVh't. Shilling Mountains. See Rocky, ship. See I'essi I. Shlvdy, .1. M., First lostmusler, .!l!l, 321. Shoalwater— Hay. 120— Cape, 110, i2S, 3.!.'), 311,31.'), 3")! , 200. .")7 to 4(17 281, 313 William, 281, 31 1. X I V msTOKY OK OUKGON. il Sv(< Pitcijic ■>'~. ••ilO, .■!1-.', ■. See Ex- Short, R. v., .'ai, :W. ShortesB, Robert, 2.12, 2J't, 2iV!, '^A, 'iTJlS, 277. ShoHhone Indians, 140. Show-ah-wiiy, Yakima (^hlef, .'iW. Shrum, NIcliolas, .TjO, 3Vj. HIgnature.s of Delegiiles to ronstltutional Con- vention, Xtl. 81mcoe Vallpy, .W-'. Simmons— tJporgf, 27li. 2S(i— Michael T., 2S4, 2-(."), ■m. Simpson, Sir (Jeorge, 2.'7, 247, 2li:!. Sinclair, .lames, H. H. Co. Agent, cm, 4IH, V*y Siskiyou Mountain, l!Hi. Sisters of Notre Dame. 2H1. .Skinner, Alonzo A., Indian Agent, 2K.'>, ^f-'.s, :i.)S, ;U4. Slnngliler, I.leut. \V. A . .1X7, 42.-.. slavery— In America, 111— In Oregon, :i'2li, M.'l, .'Jl K Slocum, I, lout. Wni. A., 2.i(l. .smallpox among the lilackfeet, oiix. Smith-Rev. A. 1!.. 214 to 21li, 2')7, 2.V, 2;7-Ca|>t. A. ,1.. :t.->S, :il(i), :«W, :!71, .■!)!!, 4(12. 434, a\ III. 44:i to 4 Hi, 47()— Ucluzon, :!">» to ;!-V)-(i. ]{.. .W.!— Isaac W., 27(i. 2S(>— .ledcdiah s., Trapping Kxpeditlon of. 1!I2 to 210— Noyes, '.W, ^S.")- Robert. 270, 2iH— Shlney, 2.I2. 240, 277. 2)S0- Slmeon. 2.S0— Thomas, \V):i-\ Pioneer of lHt2, 2:)2. 2j:i. Smith's Inlet. 121. Snake, River, 13li— Indians, 1 10, .101 to .iOI, l.'^S— Massacre, .101— Mission, 2.'L'. Silkier, Dr. K., :!i:i. Snook, .I..S., 2H4,:tiil. .IM. Sonofd, .Spanish vessel, 70 lo Si. Hound, tivc Utrchni, Xoalku, /'on.vevv/oji, Prince William, I'liqit, Queen Cluirlalte, ,S7. George's. .South Pass, 101, South Sea, l!i, 2-1, :il, :!7. .V), 01, .S4, 01. f^'p'oi— f!oinpany. 04. Southern Kmlgrant Koute. 2!IS, :;02 Spalding, Rev. Henry H., 212, 20->, Spanish— Armada, .12— CoiKiuests, I' ploratinna. Spokane— Fort, 101, lOi— Indiims, 101, 121, 4.")0, 4.')8 474— .Mission, 214. Sportsman, William, 2!is. Spotted Eagle, Nez Perce Chlel', 4.'>.s. St. Charles City, :!XV St. Clare, VV., .'loi. .St. Elias, Mfiunt, ■")S, .S7, 01. .St. Kraneis /avler. Chapel of, :!00. St. George's Sound. Nee Xnnthi. St. Helens -.Mount, I20-To\vn of, •'!!:!. St. Ignatius Mission, .'KK). St. .lohn's Church, Oregon City. .100. St. r.ouls. Founded, f»i— Fort, ISO. St. Mary's Mission, 'iOO. St. J'riul and St. /Vo. SlarUweuther, \Vm. .\., :!."iO, "..yi . Stat*— Capital. Nee Ciiiiilal— House, 2."il, 347— Kfforts to Create. .'142 to .•i.")2. Stutesman. :i.V>, 3;i«, 'Mi, 310, 317, 3H.'),.i01, 431, Steamer, P'Irst built In Oregon, .330. Steele, Judge Elijah, :««, Stellacoom, Fort, 387, 4'2.'), 420. Hteptoe, Col. E. ,1., 4.")0, 4.")2, IM. 103 to lo; 473. Stevens, Gov. Isaac!., ,343, 3H0 to .is;l, 1(10 to 41'2, 423 to 427, 4r>() to 4.'>S, 41m to 187. Stewart— Lieut. A. »., 4.-).3— Capt. V. S. A.,3:W-P. G., '270, '281, 287— Camp, 3,lt, .Th. Nee Drum- mond. Stlck-us. Cayuse Chief, 274, 286, 3o7. Stock Whitley, Des Chutes Chief, l2o, 400, Stony Mountains. See Rnekii, Straight, Hiram A., '270, 284, im, 3iK). Straits. See Aninn, Behrinf/'s, Cnrlerenl, Ilarii, John stone'. s, Juan tie h'uen, Lrihnitlnr, Maijel- lan, lionqnillo, timario. stratton, U. K., 3'il. Strong, ('apt. and .ludge Wllliani, :i.s,"), W). Stuart, David and Robert, I.")l, l.)7. 101, 104. Sublette, Milton and Wllliani, 103, '201. Supremo Court. See .hirigex. .SnriV, Spanl.sh vessel. 117, 123. ■28:!. 470 *o Suttei-Capt. .lohn A., 21 1, .181- Fort, .320, ;WI, 401), Swallow Hall. See War Kagle. Swartwout, ('apt. r. S. N.,4'27, 408. Switzer, Lieut., C. S. A..408. Syracuse, Town of, 3:1.3. Table Rock, :t;)8, :i,M to 300, 374. Taeoutchee Tasse River. See Fraser Ta-ma-has, murderer of Dr. Whitman, 318. Tam-su-ky, Cayuse Chief, 300 to 318. Taylor, B., 314-Fort, 473-.rames, 328, ;i.tl— Capt. ( ). H. P., 471, 474— President Zachary, .Til. Tchlrlkof, Alexel, .')7. Tejada (Texada) Island, 114, 1'23. Telohn Pass, '201. Telegraph Lines Kullt. 347. Tenas 'I vee. Rogue River Chief, :iO.'i. Territorial Period, :«2 to :Vil. Terrv. Chester N., .'Wl, %-tlV,. The Dalles, lO.-) to 41:1, 421, 4'27. 430, 4:t7— Indians. 237, -iiO, .382— Mission, 217. 'I'-ii, .307), .307. Thegayo River, 07. See Cnlumlilii. Tliompson— David, a Fur Trader, l.Ki— Capt. Cliaries, :M0— Capt. Piiillp F,, 314 to 317. Thorn, Capt. .lonathan, I.'ii, i.'):t. Tiiornlon, .1. (^ulnn, 207, 320 to;!28. Thorp, Major, 282. Thurston— County, .'il7— Samuel R., 'i:!!, 2:m, .302, 304, :i'i7, :!31. :i37. Tlbbetts, Calvin, 2:!fl, 277. Tillamook, Cape, 100, 101— Counly, :U4— Indians, :i02. Times, Newspaper, :!:i7. Timothy, Ne/, Perce chief, 471 to 17:1. Tipsu Tyee, Rogue River Chief. :i«l, .3(i0. Tolmie, W. F., :!00. Tom Hill, '238,3(10. Tonnuin, Voyage and Destruction of, l.'iO to l.'>0. Touchet-Rattle of, 310, 4lli— River, 111, 310,370, 413, 410. •i'ownseiid, Port. 12:!, 34:!. Trappers. See Fnr Onmpanies. Traveller, V . S. Steamer, 400. Traveling Nursery of 1817,301. Treasurer of Oregon, 2")7, 2Sl, 282, '28i'>, .328. :r>l. Treatles-Ashburton, '204, '270— with England, l:i2. 104, Ili8, I.V"), 201, 270, 2-2!), 203,200— otGlienI, 101— of .Joint occupation of Oregon, 198, lH.i, •2112, 203— of .Madrid, 1'28— of Nootka, 111- of Ryswick, 111-with Spain In 1818, 'Jt'. See Indiana. Trevllt, Vlo.,:l.8(i. Trinidad Hay, 48, 70. Tshimikain Mission, 214, :I06. Tualatin— District, 281— Plains, 210. :102. I'ufts. .Attacked by Indians, :!74. Tukannon River, 1:17, :W0. Tuie Lake, :«0, Turn water, .'143. Turner John, 2'20,2.'1(), 277. Turpin, William, 301. •I'Vault, W. G., •28.->, 288, :)0!l, :l:!o. Tygh Valley, 4011. Tyler, President .lohn, '272, 20.3. |i Ulloa, Francisco de. Voyage of, 21. rniatilla— Agency. :M1— Indians. :1S1, 410, 4-20, IfiO, 4i«)— .Mission. 108. 110- Reservation, '181, 410, 411-River, i:!0, ir>0, .'CT, 411. rm-howlisli, Cayuse (.'hief, 307, 30O, .'170. rmp(|ua--Fort,'20l-Indlans, 104 to 100, 401 — Mas- sacre, nil to 100— River, 40 to .">!, 101, ;l;47— Val- ley, .3:^7. t'nlversity of Oregon, :14.'). ITnited States- Attorney, :i;l-"i, :141, :il.'>— Marshal, 327, 3.-)5,344. Utilla. See Umatilla. V Vuidez, Cayetano, Voyage of, 118, 12:1. Vanconver-(;'atliolicChiirch,:iOO— District, '288— Fort, 1'20, 177., 17(i, -200, 212, 217, '228, 230, 421, 122, lir.-lBland,78, 108, 121, I21, I.*3-To\vn, 4(H- Voyage of, 11'2. 118 to 128, Vannoy's Ferry, 308, 4.3.5. Van .Scliouten, Voyage of, .'53. «KNKI!AL INDK.X. XV Vaslion Island, 12:!. Velaspo I/ake, I.!. Verondryps. Kxplorationsof, ll!i to 71. Vi'i-Milhon Hen, "i-l. Vessel, First Hiilll-«n raclHc (,'oast, 21, !W, 100. IJI. 157— on Columbia Klver. iri7. Viscalno, Sebastian, Voyage of, 1"). Volunteers. 2X1), .■J12. :!M, .'W, atl, .•i7(l, ■i7N, :!,S8 to 477. Voy«i?e. Srv Afiuilur, Arteaga, Aynln, Jtaffl'^- Harclati, Behriiu/. Bi'iiynintky, Jtlilille, Hn- (lesin y Quadm, IIUMlitiimnte, Catimano, !» to 4111. Walauiet Cattle Co., 211. Sec Wlllmnvtle Waldo. Daniel. l>avid and William, rii, •Jn2. M'alker-Courlney M., -liiS, 277. 2-t2 2,Sii-Uev. KI- kanali, 211. 2lfc'>, 277— (.'apt .Jesse, :llil— .loseph. Trapping K.xpedlllon ol, 202 -a Vlcllm ol Indians, 3S7. Walker's I'ass, 200 to 2112. Wallaeo Prairie. 2-il. "Wallen, (apt., 414. Walla Wallu-llattle or. 111 to 122-Canip, 120.121, 427, 44S. 4.''>. Waters— David, i!14— Col. .lames, 278, 'il-i to. 117 Watklns, W. H , :«!, ifiS. Watt, .Joseph, 284. Watts, John W., .150, :V)5. Wayralre. Frederick and .John, 2S8, .V>0, :l.V(, Webster, Daniel, 204, 271, 272, 20.1, 21K1. Well Springs, Hattle of, 311. West, Ulver of the, tj7. See Columbia. Western Star, ;»"). Weston, David, :il I. Wheat made Legal Tender, 288. Wheeler, I, lent. .James, 471. Whldby Island, 121, :10r. .Marcus, 210 to 221, 2:il,2.rr,2;t8,217, 2til) to 275, 277, .121— andlmmigration of 181.1, 247,200 to 2r5, .'too— .Vlassncre, UtS, .•105 to .'118. :!21 to. '12:t-- Mission. .SVc lfrti(V'»/y)«-l'urehases Tlie iMlles Mission, *l.5 -|>. H., :t07. Whitney, .Jones K., .'t7!i. Whltted, Thomas, :V>0, :152'». Whiltnn, .\nierloan vessel, .'121. Wilbur, Captain, 4 10. Wilcox. I)r. Italph, 2S0. .lO.'!, :i01. Wiley..!. \V.,.'ii:i. Wilkes, C— J. V.., '281. %*\- Capt. M. M., 41.5, 4.10— Col. Kohert 1... :15l to :ttiO, 3!)(i, .';n8. 4:B to 44(1. Wilkln.son— Caiit.,:!!i8, 4(0— Oeorge, 2:12. Wlllson, William II.. 257. '277, '280, .'W. Wilson- A. V.., -2.57, '277, '282. .'til— A. F., .'Wl. :i85- Cnpt. .\. v.. 411, 417 to 420, 4:10- John, 301. Wind Hlver, 70. Win Im snoot, Cuyuse Chief, 400. Winnipeg, City. Fort, Lake and Klver, (ill, 170, 171. Winslilp's Settlement on the Columbia, 14.5. Wolf Meeting, 251. Wood. I'loneer of 18:17, 2:10. ^Voods. Lake of the, (19. 70. Woodworth, John. 2'20. Wool. (Jen. John E., :!(«. :!IW, .300. .372, :i82, :189, 390, 411, 412, 421 to 421. 425, 4:1.5, 440, 1(17. W right— (apt. Kenlamln. 232, .'130, 4.38, 4:}!>— Col. George, 426, 447 to 4:50, 4(1:1 to 409, 473 to 475. Wyeth, Nathaniel .1., Knterprlses of, 197, '202 to 2O0. 213. 220. Vaklma- Indhms. :wi, :IS1 to :i!ll, 4II7. 108, 410, 429, 118 to 151, 45S, 4(10. 470, 474— .Mission, .508- Klver, 407, l'28. Yamhill— District, 280— Settlement, '2111. Vantis, Judge, .'18.5. Vellept. Walla Walla Chief, l;l!i. Yellow Bird. See Pen-fien-mox-nior. Yellowstone Klver, 70, I'lO, 14'2. Yelni Prairie, 4'2(!. ■yerba Buena, 0.5, 201. See San Francisrn. You-ma-lolam. See T'liintuia. Voung-Kwlng, '201, •2'20, '2:10, 212, 214-Licut., U. S. N., 4«S. Yreko,;i:J7, ;«9. CHAPTER I. AMERICA IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTUKY. Spain's Foothold in the New World— The Aye of Romance and Adve)b- ture — The Method and Successive Stages of € on le voyage of (\)lmiil>us, the Island of Hayti was con([iiered and named " Nuevo Ilispanola," a name afterwanls transferred to Mexico. Mere work was hetjun in the mines, the natives bein^ enslaved to perfoi-in the laltor. These being found physically unable to endure the hardships imposed upon them, negroes were im[)orted from (ruinea for that purpose, thus laying the foundation of Afriean slavery, \vhich the civilization of the nineteenth ccmtury has not yet been abh' fully to abolish. In loll the Island of Cuba was invad<(l by HOO men, and conquered in the name of the king of S2>ain. In l.")].'} \'aseo Nunez de Balboa crossed the Isthnuis of Darlen and disci )\('red the great South Sea, of Avhich the natives had scj contidently spoken that it had already found a place on the maps of European geogra- phers. Seven years lat(;r the great Magellan entercHl it through the straits that bear his name, and christened it " Pacitic." In 1519 Cortes landed in Mexico, and with an army of 950 soldiers and a ffreat cloud of Indian auxiliai'ies invaded the ancient kintcdom of the Montezumas. In two years he completely subjugated the country, his progress l^eing marked by the blood of the Aztecs poured out like water in the defense. Ten years later the cruel Pizarro, whose only object was coniiuest and plunder, entered Peru with a thousand men, subdued the country and plundered the king- dom of the Incas of its treasures of gold and silver. In 1585 Men- doza entered Buenos Ayres at the head of 2,000 men and subjugated the country as far as Potosi, whose famous mines of sib/er were discovered nine years later. In 1537, Cortes, seeking funher con- (piests to the westward of Mexico, landed at Santa Cruz, near the lower extremity of the peninsula of California, but finding neither wealth nor civilized nations, and l)eing una})le to subsist his force in such a barren land, soon abandoned his effort at colonization and returned to Mexico. In 1541, Chili was conquered l)y the restless adventurers of Spain. By the middle of the sixteenth century Spain had con(piered and colonized every portion of America inhabited l)y wealthy and semi-civilized nations, and was enjoying a revenue of almost fabu- lous amount fr(>m her provinces in the New World. Portugal alone, of all her rivals, had accomplished anything of a similar nature. 20 iriHTOKY OF WILLVMETTK VALLKY, having pliinte*! a colony in Brazil. England and France had suc- ceeded sinijdy in laying a foundation for a claim of dominion in North America, ))Ut, unlike their enterprising rival, received as yet no revenue from the New World. Sucli was the condition of affairs when the first efforts were made to explore the coast of Oregon. \ CHAP^J^ER II. THK FABULOUS STRAITS OF AN FAN. Cortereal Discovers the Straits of Lahraola and Qairira- Voyage of Juan liodyne. CabrMo-^Ihs Death-Ferrelo Continues the Voyaae to LMe J^ or W Spain Abandons the Search for the Straits of Anmn and Turns her Attention to the Indies -Spanish Con,merce Supreme m the Pacific-IIer Claim of Exclusive Domain-The Buccamers, or Freebooters of the Spanish Main, Inva^le the Pacific- liraUcal Voy,ye of Sir Francis Drake-IIe Searches for the Straits . of Anmn— Dispute among Ilistorians as to the Extent of his Vov age-Drake Lands his Pilot in Oregon- Drake^s Ba>, not the Bay of San Francisco Drake Takes Possession of Neu, Albion- Romancis ofChaplatn J^letcher-D rakers Success Excites the Euudation of oher Adventurers-Frmcdulent Claims of Discovery of a Northwest 1 assage-Maldonado^s Pretended Voyage through the Straits of Aman-Hts Memorial a Sham. THE immediate cause which led t(. the discovery and consequent occupation of Oregon was tlie long and eager search for the mythical Northwest Passage, which continued for nearly three cen- tunes, and was participated in by seven of the leading nations of the wor d England, France, Holland, Spain, Pov^ngal, Russia and the United States; and since it makes so consj .uous an object in the foreground of Oregon's history, it is worthy an extended descrip- tion. ^ '>'> 1IIST(H;Y ok WIM-AMKTTK vam.ky. One of the most noted of the many exph)rers attracted to the New Woi'hl l)y the great discovery of Colunihus, was (iraspar Cor- tereal, a Portuguese. In the year 1 500 this great navigator explored the Atlantic coast of North America — then called "N(tvusMun- dus," and supposed to be a portion of the continent of Asia, extend- ing a long distance to the eastward — and sailing round the coast of La])rador entered the straits whicli lie lu the <)Oth degree north lat- itude. Through these he passed into Hudson's Bay, sup])osing he had no^v entered waters which communicated with the Indian ocean. Aljsurd as this supposition is in the light of our present knowleelieve to liave been frecpiently accomplished in ancient days by those venturesome mariners, the Phienicians; and now Cortereal believed that he had found a route into the same waters by passing around the northern extremity of the New World. To the straits through which he had passed he gave the name of " Anian," and the land to the south of them he called Labrador, and these were variously indicated on the subset] uent maps aa " Straits of Anian," " Strait- of Cortereal," "Straits of Labrador," " Land of Cortereal," f.nd " Land of Labrador." The exact sig- TIIK KABrLOtIS STHAITS OK AXIAN. 2M as sig- nificance of the won! " Aiiiun " is wneruUv admitted to be iin- known, altlioni>;li it lias l>een tlie subject of much dispute. By some it was claimed to have been derived fi'om the Ja|)anese Avord Am', meaning " l)i'other," and to have been applied to these straits because Cortereal Itelieved them to separate Asia and Novus Miinilus, which stood on o[)[)(»site sid^s in brotherly c-on junction ; but as Japan was at that time utterly unknown — uidess, indctMl, it was that wonder- ful Island of Cipamro, <>f whose fabulous riches such extravagant expectations luid Ix'en created,— Cortereal can hardly l)e assumed to have been sufticicntly familiar with the language to employ it in Ijestowing names to the exclusion of his native tongue, and especially to the ignoi'ing<»f tliat long list of saints which furnislnid such an inexhaustible su[)[)ly of names for the devout Spanish and Portuguese explorers, lying as thick upon the ma[) of America as pin holes in an old paper |)attern. A few years later the ideas of geogra))hers in regard to the size of the world began to exj»anwe(l the n;ime "Pacific " npon it. The voyage was continued westward untd the world had been circunmavigared, and an a])proximate idea of tlie distance around it was thus gained by geogra[>liers. lielief was imiiK^diatcdy revived in the Straits of Anian. It was then supjiosed that CortereaPs passage led from tlie Atlantic into the South Sea, of whose immen- sity tlie world had become dee[)ly imjiressed, since Magcdlaii had traversed it in its l»roadest part. If the Noith American continent narrowed northward as South America had been found to do in the opposite direction, then it must l)e Imt a short illstance from the Atlantic to the Pacific in the region of Labrador; and since a pas- sage had been found through the land to the south — for in their ignoranceof th.- open sea ])elow South America, geographers believed Magellan's Straits to lie simply a narrow waterway piercing the heart of the continent where it was much narrower than elsewhere — it was reasonable to sujipose that a similar one existed to the north, especially since Cortereal had reported finding it. To discover this northwest passage was the desire of explorers for many yeai's there- 24 IIISTOliY OK WILLAMETTK VALLEY. after. England, France and Portugal, and Holland in later years, Honght it in the Atlantic, while Spain put forth her efforts to attain the same object in the Pacific. To the efforts made in the latter direction this narrative will be chiefly confined, since to them is due the discovery of Oregon and the complete exploration of the Pacific Coast. When (/ortez had sul)jugated Mexico he at once began con- structing vessels on the western coast of Central America for service in the Pacific. He possessed a roving commission from his sover- eign, the poweiful Charles V., which granted him almost despotic powers as a ruler " all new countries he might discover and sub- due in the name of the king, the concpiests to be made at his own expense and risk, and the expeditions to be fitted out from his own resources. To foHow his movements in detail is unnecessary. They resulted in the discovery and temporary colonization of Lower Cal- ifornia, the discovery of the Colorado River, and the knowledge that the Sea of Cortes, or the Vermilion Sea, was a gulf, the one now known {.s the "Gulf of California." It had been the p]an of Cortes to coast north' ard, westward and scmthward. along America and Asia, until he reached the Indies, noting the exact position of the Straits of Anian as he passed ; but the vessels he had constructed for that purpose were ordered tf) be sent in a direct path ac-ross the Pacific, and he was compelled to build others. It was witFr these that his expeditions along the Mexican Coast and in Lower CJalifornia were conducted. The first attempt t<; pass around the southern extremity of the Peninsula of Califor- nia and follow the outer coast northward was made in 1539. On the twenty-ninth of October of that year Francisco de Ulloa, who had been the energetic assistant of the great conquesitador in all his operations on the western coast of Mexico, sailed from the bay of Santa Cruz, the scene of Cortes' disastrous attempt at coloniza- tion in Lowei- California, and passed around the cape now known as " San Lucas." On the first of February he had proceeded as far north as 2.S", when he e icountered an island near the coast which he christened " Isle of Cedars." For two months he was l)affled by head winds and contended with sickness among his crew, afllicted with that dread malady the scurvy, the scourge of the early mariners, wh(» neither understood its nature nor knew how to prevent or cure TIIK FABULOUS STRAITS OK ANIAN. 25 it. The sickness uimbating and his stock of provisions beginning to run short, Ulloa abandoned the effort to progress further and returned to Mexico. No immediate attempt was made to continue the explorations thus begun by Ulloa. Th.e lact ^vas that Don Antonio de Mendoza, a Spanish nobleman of high rank, who had succeeded Cortes as Viceroy of New Spain, was deeply interested in expk/ring the inte- rior to the northward, in search of a mythical country called " Cibola," and another named " Quivira," stories of whose wonder- ful richness had been received from wandering refugees, who claimed to have seen them or been informed of their existence by th<; Indians. Two expeditions were sent out to accomplish this purpose. One under Fernando de Alarcon ascended the Coloradt) a distance of 300 miles without observing anything suggestive of civilized nations; while Francisco Vasquez de Caronado was equally unsuccessful in a land journey which took him as far north as 40°, and extended over two years of time. Even before Coronado returned from following the ignis fahms of Quivira, Mendoza dispatched an expedition by sea to search for the Straits of Anian, and incidentally to discover any of those civ- ilized nations which Indian tradition and Caucasian imaginati(m located further to the northwest. This fleet consisted of two small vessels, commanded by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, and sailed in the year 1542. Cabrillo followed the coast as far north as latitude 38°, when he encountered a violent storm which drove him many miles backward. From this he found shelter in a small harbor in the Island of San Bernardino, lying near the coast in latitude 34°, which he christened " Port Possession," being the first point on the California coast of which the Spaniards took possession. While the vessels were lying in this harl)or, Cabrillo died, on the third of January, 1548, and the command devolved upon Bartolonu' Ferrelo, the pilot, as the second in power upon the Spanish vessels was des- ignated at that time. This position was always occupied by an experienced seaman, as it frequently hapt)ened that the commander of the expedition was not a practical navigator; and this partially accounts for the fact that ])ut little accurate knowledge was gained by Spanish explorers, who took but few observations and kept exceedingly poor records, so much so, in fact, that after half a dozen 2(5 IHSTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLKY. voyages of ('X[)lorat'n»n tlun- wer»^ unalde to ti\'U'<^ the coiitoiir of the coast line upon tlu' nuij) witli even an approach to accun\cy. Upon assuming c<»nnnan(l of the expedition, Ferreh) again headed the \essels to tlie nt^rtlnvanl. Near hititude 41° he discov- ered a prominent headhind on a rocky JUi'd forbidding coast, which lie named Cabo dc For/imas, tlie " Cape of Perils," and which is pro])al)ly the one suhstvpiently cln-istened "Mendocino," in ii(»nor of the Mexican Viceroy, Men(h)za, who had dispatched tJie expedi- tion. On the first of March, 154;?, Ferreh) readied tlie farthest point to the northwanl, which is given by some authorities as lati- . tude 44°, and liy others as 4.'{°, Other historians, inchiding Ban- croft, do not accord liim even so higli a latitude as 4.?", The con- flict arises from the careless and meagre records aljove referred to. However, it makes Imt little difference, as he progressed as far as Rogue River, an- lished by Kichard Hakluyt, the celebrated geographer of those times, in a volume embodying the results of all previous voyages of ex- ploration, and is said to be the production of Francis Pretty, one of Drake's crew ; though English autliors claim it to have been \vritten by Hakluyt himself from accounts oi the voyage related to him some time before, ami thus subject to grievous errors. The other account is one which was published by a nephew of Drake, seventy years after the voyage was completed, and long after every soul who had })articipated in it had passed to his final account; thus tliere was no living witness who could dispute the wildest and most reckless statement the com2)iler might be led to make in his eager- ness to establish his relative's position as discoverer of New Albion, the name Drake had bestowed upon California. The notes used in preparing this volume were credited to Rev. Fletcher, the chaplain of the expedition, and it must be said that in some respects he was the most magnificent liar that ever undertook to deceive an audience absolutely ignoi-ant of the subject with which he dealt. The regions visited \vere entirely unknown, since no information was gained by FeiTelo's voyage, and the world was prepai-ed to believe anything of this region, of which new wonders wn-e constantly l)eing revealed. Rev. Fletcher seems to have realized this, and improved his oppor- tunity ; yet the fact that his nott^s contain what are known to be willful misstatements, is not proof that in this one instance he was not correct, or that his notes were altered by the compiler to read 48° instead of 43°. This want of verai-ity is, of course, a presimip- titm against liis statement in this particular; but it will require something more authentic than the alleged narrative of Francis Pretty to establish their inaccuracy )>eyond dispute. When the whole matter is re\ iewed impartially, the mind naturally leans to- ward the theory of 4.'$ degrees, without, however, feeling completely 30 niSTOUY OF WILLAMETTK VALLKY. satisfied tluit it is the true one. In the nature of tilings this con- troN'ersy can never he setth^i, and Drake and F^errelo will ever bear the divided honor of the discovery of Oregon. Drake's presence on the coast of Oregon, near the forty-third parallel, is proven by Spanish records, which contain a piece of information not to be found in either of the narratives mentioned above. From this it ap[)ears that he had on board a Spanish pilot, named Morera, with whom he felt dissatisfied for some reason, and in the ivgion indicated he ran into a " poor harbor " and put the offending seaman ashore, leaving him among savages, thirty-five hundred miles from civilization. That he accomplished the journey across that unknown land and reached his countrymen in Mexico is evidenced by the fact that the incident is recorded at all, since other- wise it could never have been known. Havinir been forced ))ack along the c(\ast by adverse winds, he entered a small l)ay near lati- tude 38", whe4'e he cast anchor for thirty-six days. It Avas, until recent times, supposed that this harbor was San Francisco Bay, the name helping to support the idea with the unthinking. Later on it will be seen that the bay was thus named l\ honor of an entirely different personage. Sir Francis Drake was the revei-se of a saint in Spanish eyes, and even had they named it in his honor they would have been certain to associate with his name some title more in harmony with their estimation of his character. Drake was in search of the Straits of Anian, and that he lay thirty -six days in San Francisco Bay without even attempting to explore the connect- ing bays of San Pablo and Suisun, and the great na\'igable rivers discharging into them, is so manifestly improbalde as to be beyond credence. There is no positive testimony to support the idea, and the contrary is proven as nearly as purely negative testimony can prove anything. It is generally conceded by historians that Drake's harbor of refuge was the one lying just north of the Golden Gate and known as " Drake's Bay." It is in speaking of this place that Chaplain Fletchei- displays his abilities as a romancer. Tlie time was the month of June, and yet he states that snow covered the hills and that the weather was so cold that meat froze upon being taken from the fire. One familiar with the fact that snow is a rarity there even in winter, and that at no time does it become cold TlIK F VBULOf s STRAITS OK ANIAN. 81 :e's enough to freeze uieat that has never been neai* a fire, lias his cf>nfi- (lence in the w^racity of the chronicler terribly shaken. While lying in the harbor Drake landed ans engraved her majestie's name, the day and yeare of our arrival there, with the free giving up of the province and peo- ple into her majestie's hands, together with her highness' picture and arms, in a piece of five pence of current English money under the plate, whereuuder was also written the name of our General. What the worthy Chai)lain consideivd a " reasonable quantitie" of the precious metals it is impossil)le ty paities who could not substantiate them. This was done for various reasons. Some enjoyed the noto- riety and fame, as a great navigator, such rei)orts brought them; others endeavored to secure a reward for tlieii' alleged services to their country, and still others ho})ed to thus win employment in their business, or receive the conuuand of an expedition to locate detinitely the pf»sition oi the ]>assage. So frequent were these tales, and so much at variance with v^ach othei', that they all fell into disre})ute, and it is doubtful had such a strait been actually found if geogra- })hers could have been l»rought to believe it. Tlie fiction of this character which attracted the most attention and which had the most influence in dictating the character of expeditions in after years, wjis one niaile by Captain Loren/o Ferrer de Maldonado, a Portu- guese. In 1()(>9 this gentleman presented a petition to the Spanish Council of the Indies — that august body which, sitting in S[)ain, ruled the S})anish ])ossessions in India and America— asking for a suitable reward for his services, and the command of a Spanish expe- dition to take [)ossession of the straits and fortify theui against the l>a«sage of ships of any other nation. The voyage upcm which Maldonado based his claim he asserte leagues (ahout .'{,()()(> miles), when he came upon the Straits of Anian, leading directly south into the South Sea. This wondeiful passage he thus descriltes: — Huviiijf I'leart'd tl»e Strait of Jjuliratlor, we began to descend from that latitude, stoffinj!; weMt-Houtliwt'Ht and soiithwcHt, three hundred and ttfty leagueu, to the Tlst degree of latitude, when we perceived a high coast, without being able to tell whether it was part of the continent or an island ; but we remarked that, if it were the continent, it nuist be oi)poHite the coast of New Spain. From this land we directed our course wcst-soutliwest, four hundred and forty leagues, until we came to the (iOtli degree, in which parallel we discovered the Strait of Anian. * * * * The strait which we discovered in 60°, at the distance of one thousand seven hundred and ten leagues from Spain, appears, according to ancient tradition, to be that named l)y geographers, in their maps, the Strait of Anian; and, if it be so, it must be a strait having Asia on the one side, and America on the other, which seems to be the case, according to the following narrative :—" As soon as we had cleared the strait, we coasted along the shores i>f America for more than one hundred leagues south westward, to the noth degree of latitude, on which coast there were no inhabitants, or any opening indicating the vicinity of another strait, through which the South Sea, flowing into the North, might insulate that part: and we concluded that all that coast belonged to America, and that continuing along it, we might soon reach the t^uivira and Cape Mendocino. We then left this coast and, sailing to- wards the we.-tt four days, we discovered a very high land, and continued along the coast, from v/hich we kept at a safe distance, always in the open sea— sailing, at one time, to the northeast, at others towards the north-northeast, and again to the north, whence it "teemed to us that the coast ran northeast and southwest. " We were unable to mark any particular points, on account of our distance from land ; and we can, therefore, only attirm that it is inhabited, nearly to the entrance of the strait, as we saw smoke rising up in many places. This country, according to the c'lurts, must belong to Tartary, or Cathaia (China), and at a distance of a few leagues from the co'wt must be the faui.'d f iiy of Cambula, the metropolis of Tar- tary. Finally, having followed the direciit.n of this coast, we found ourselves at the entrance of the same Strait of Anian, which, flfteen days before, we had passed through to the open sea; this we knew to !»' the South Sea, where are situated .Japan, China, the Mouluccax, India, New (irnea, and the land discovered by Cap- tain Quiros, with all the coast of New Spain and Peru. * * * * * " The Strait of Anian is tifteen leagues in length, and C4in easily be passed with a tide lasting six hours, for those tides are very rapid. There are, in this length, six turns, and two entrances, which lie north and south ; that is, bear from each other north and south. The entrance on the north side (through which we passed) is less than half a quarter of a league in width, and on each side are ridges of high rocks; but the rock on the side of Asia is higher and stec|>er than on the other, and hangs over, so that nothing falling from the tops can reach its base. The entrance into the South Sea, near the harbor, is more than a quarter of a league in width, and thence the passage runs in an obli<(Ue dii'ection, increasing the distance between the two coasts. In the middle of the strait, at the termination of the third turn, is a great rock, and an inlet, formed by a rugged rock, three entadias (about one thou- sand one hmidred feet I in height, more or less; its form is round, and its diameter may be two hundrcil paces ; its distance from the land of Asia is very little ; but the TlIK FAHl'LOITS STRAITS OK ANIAN, 86 sea on that Hide is full of slioaln and reefn, and can be only navigatod liy bouts. The distance between this inlet and the continent of America is less than a ((uartcr of a league in width, and, although its channel is ho deep that two or even three Hhijm sail abreast through it, two bastions might be built on tho lianlts with little trouble, which would contract the channel to within the reacli of a musket sliot. " In the harbor in which our ships anchored, at the entrance of the strait, on the south side, we lay from the beginning of April to the middle of June, when a large vessel of eight hundred tons burden came there from the (South Sea, in order to pass the strait. Upon this we put ourselves on our guard ; but, having come to an under- standing with her, I found them willing to give us some of fheir merchandise, the greater part of which consisted of articles similar to those manufactured in China, such as brocades, silks, porcelain, feathers, precious stones, pearls, and gold. These people seemed to be Hanseaiics, who inhabit the bay of St. Nicliolas, or tlie port of St. Michael (Archangel, on the White Sea). In order to understand one another we were forced to speak Latin— those of our jiarty who understood that language talking with those on board theship who were also accjuainted with it. They did not seem to be Catholics, but Lutherans. They said they came from a large city more than one hundred leagues from the strait, and though I can not exactly remember its name, I think they called it Rohr, or some such name, which they said had a good harbor and a navigable river, and was subject to the great khan, as it belonged to Tartary ; and that in that port they left another ship belonging to tlieir country. We could learn no more from them, as they acted with great caution and little con- fidence, being afraid of our company ; wherefore we parted from them near the strait, in the North Sea, and set sail towards Spain." It is barely possible tliut a voyage may have l)eeii made about the time mentioned in the memorial, during which the vessel entered Hudson's Bay, and that Maldcmado was a seaman or sub-officer on board, which would accoiuit for his ignorance on such technical points as the degrees of latitude and number of miles sailed, and that two decades later, when his superior officers were dead and he him- self had risen in rank, he desired the command of an expedition to search for these straits in whose existence he firmly believepearajice was sufficient to cause its < i, re rejection by the CVmncil of the Indies. In after years, however, two co[iies of this memorial, of the ex- istence of which the vorld was ignorant, were fotnid among ancient records at different places, each one purporting to )»e the original document. They created great excitement, and, as will be seen later,, Iiad nuich to do with the shaping of exphu'ations for a century thereafter. As h'te as ITiM), when the heated controversy ovei- the Nootka afFa'i* seemed al)out to ])lunge F^ngland and Spain into war, the (piestion of the autheiiticity of Maldonad >'s narrative wax gi-avely discussed, and a last thorough search was made in Spain and Por- tugal for confirmative evidence, which was as fruitless as had been all previous efforts. With the end of thnt controversy Maldonado's mythical straits disapjjeared forever from the jdaneof active histoi'y and took its proper place in the domain of romance. •(CHAPTER III. THE STRAIT8 OK .HAN DK FUCA AND THE RIVER OF KINGS. Xitri'dtive of Mirhdi'l Lock, the Polder— St(,/'i/ of Ji/an de Fthra, as told hy Loci- — I)f,s(u-i]>tioii. of the Straits of Fiica — Vontroversij among HistorUms over Fui;ti''s aJleged. Voyaije -Both Sides Carefully Con- sidered — Probably a Myth -Advilral Fontes alleged Voyage — The River of Kings — Its Absurdity Pointed (hit. THERE is still anotlier somewhat iiiytliical voyas^e associated with this search for the Sti'aits of Aiiiaii, which has jtlayed a most important ))!irt in the history of Oregon; and thonjxh it comes entirely thi'ouu'ii Ent^lish sonrces, is nttei'ly rei)ndiated hy modern English historians, and even receives hut little credence among American writers. This is the ceiel>rate(l voyage of Juan de Fuca, who '\H clainie(| to have discoveivd the Straits of I'uca, that hroad channel separating a portion of Washington Territory from Van- cover Island, in Hi'itish ('olund)ia. There was puhlished in London, in IB".*.'), a celel. rated historical and geographical work, edited hy iSamuel Purchas, which hon> the odd title of " The Pilgrims." Among other things, this volume con- tained "A note l»y Michael 'iock, the eldei', touching the Strait of Sea, commonly calleci Fi-etum ^\nian, in the South Sea, througii the Northwest Passage of Mv'<^a Incognita." The most inijtortant por- tion of this alleged dt»cument of Mr. Lock is as follows; -- When I was in ViMii(!e, in Ai)ril, loiHi, liaply arrive, he said that he went on land in divers places, and that ho saw somf people on laid clad in lietwts' skins; and that the land is very fruitful, and rioli of gold, silver, pearls, and other things, like Nova Spania. Also, he said that he being entered thus far into the said strait, and being come into the North Sea already, and finding the sea wide enough everywhere, and to be about thirty or forty leagues wide in the mouth of the straits where he entered, h< thought he had now well discharged his otflcy; and that, not being armed to resist the force of the savage people that might hapi)en, he therefore set sail and returned home- wards again towards Nova Spania, where he arrived at Acapvdco, Anno 1502, hop- ing to be rewarded by the Viceroy for this .service done in the said voyage. * » * [Here follows an account of his vain endeavors for three years to secure a proper recognition of his services by the Viceroy or the Spanish monarch, and his resolu- tion to return to his native land to die among his countrymen.] Also, he said i,:; thought the cause of his ill reward had of the Spaniards, to be for that they _. understand very well that the English nation had now given over all their voyages for discovery of the northwest passage; wherefore, they need not fear them any more to come tliat way into the South Sea, and therefore they needed not his ser- vice therein any more. Also, he said that, underatanding the noble mind of the Queen of England, and of her wars against the Spaniards, and lioping that her majesty would do him justice for his goods lost by Captain Candith, he wonlJ be content to go into England and serve her niajsty in that voyage , r !l;c r?jn'>\{ -y perfectly of (he northwest pa.ssage into the South Se-i, If she w< uld furiil.-!> ."-ii STKAITS (»K .HTAN DK I'MICA AND IMVKK OK KINCS, 39 with only one shi)) of forty tons liunleu, and a pinnace, and that he would perform it in thirty days' time, from one end to the other of the strait, and he willed me so to write to England. And, from conference had twice witli the said Greek pilot, I dit was alive in 1598, l>-.it that in KWl'J, when Lock had finished his Imsin.^ss in Venice Mid was pi-eparing to retnrn to Enghind, he aihlre.'Jsed a letter to Fnca, to which he I'eceived no answer, and that a sliort time afterwards he learned that the (Ireek was dead. There lias l»een much controversy among historians as to the antlienti'.'ity of this document. In the long negotiations between England and the United States in regard to t'le location of the international boundary line, it was vigoi-oiisly snj)])orted tn the Amei'icans and a.s earnestly cond»ated by the repi'esenttttives of Great Britain. As in the discussion of Sir Francis Drake's voyage, writers were divided strictly upon national lines, and thus are subject to the charge of l)ias and jn'ejndice. A fair examinaiion will convince an im]»artial ])erson that, although it is not im])ossible the voyage was made, tlie prol (abilities are that the letter of Mr. Lock wasonecom- iv»sed for the pur])ose of creating a sensation, and no such personage :■ . Juan de Fuca e\er existed. The English writers seem to have espoused the ))etter side of the argument, though there is no reason to suppose they wonld not have as iea degives, is not as sei'ious a>i their opponents assert, since much greater eri'ors in lt»cating well-known o]>jects appear in the accounts of voyages of whose authenticity there is no dispute. The Spaniards were not scientific navigators, and their reports hristle with errois in hititude, while longitiule seems to iiave been entirely l>eyond them. This lack of accuracy preventef tliose stereotyped descriptions of won- derful cities and strange peoples which seems to have formed such an im])ortant part of the accounts of many |>reviousand sul»se([uent voyages. A careful comj>arison l>y one who is familiar with tlie jj:e()ofrai)h\' of that reirioii will convince him that in the narrative the Straits of Fuca are very accurately descrihed — with tiie excej)tion of the givat rocky pillar on the northwest — es])ecially in the fact that the land north of tiie straits ( X'aucouver Island) trends ttt the northwest. lie sailed in the jiassage twenty days, finding numerous islands and arms of the ocean running in all directions, and finally emerged into the Niu-th Sea. What could more accurately describe a voyage through the Straits of Fuca and (^ulf of (ieorgia, l»etvveen Vancouvei' Island and the mainlaml, until the open ocean was again reached on the uoithwest ^ It is not claimecj that he enteivd the Atlantic, but the Xorth Sea of Mal«l(»nado; and it nuist be borne in mind that the Straits of Anian sis then understood^that described by Maldonado — was a long jmssage, leading in a general north and south direction, c-onnecting the South Sea with the supposwl North Sea, and that to reach the Atlantic ivqiiii'ed a l<»ng voyage across this North Sea and through the Straits of Labrador. It must be an, and perha])s the strongest one, is the fact that at the very time Juan de Fuca is asserted to liave been urging his claim for a reward upon the King of Spain, another Spanish expedition was dispatched in search of the Straits of Anian, and in the letter of instructions, which details at length the reasons for ordering the voyage, no allusion is made to Fuca or his straits. Had such a voyage as Fuca's actually })een made, this second expedition would certainly have availed itself of the knowledge thus gained. Instead of doing so, the record of that voyage conclusively shows that the commander must have been utterly ignorant of Fuca and his alleged voyage ; and this proves, also, that he could have had no secret instructions on the subject. In viewing the n.atter critically, it must be admitted that the evidences against the authenticity of the voyage, though entirely of a negative character, greatly outweigh the one circumstantial evi- dence in its favor — the fact that a passage much similar to the one described actually exists a iew miles to the north of the location fixed in the narrative. Juan de Fuca's voyage was probably a myth. The third and last mythical passage to receive popular credence and engage the attention of geographers and explorers for years, 42 IIISTOlfY OK WILLAMKTTE VALLKY. was the River of Kings, tlie Tlio <1e los Reyes of Atliuiral Fonte. Like the iiaiTatives of Maldoiiado and Fuca, this did not reach the public until many years had elapsed fi-om the time assigned to the voyage, and this fact alone is almost (ionclusive evidence of its man- ufactured character. Such a voyage as any of these would have been made ])ublic soon after its completion, so eager were the learned men of the time to gain all the information possible on these subjects. It was natural for a person inventing such a tale to assign a date so far back that he need have no fear of a personal contradiction. A magazine entitled Monthly Miscellany, or Memoires of the Curious^ was pul)lished in London in 170S, containing a long ac- count of a voyage alleged to have been made in 1640, sixty-eight years previously, from the Pacific to the Atlantic and return, through a system of rivers crossing North America al)out the fifty-third par- allel The man who is credited with nuiking this wonderful voyage is Admiral Pedro Bartolonu'^ de Fonte, of the Spanish Marine. According to the account given in this magazine, Admiral Fonte was instructed by the Viceroy of Peru to ex2)lore the Pacific cojust of North America for a passage leading into the Atlantic, and to intercept some Boston vessels which the Viceroy had learned had sailed upon the* same errand on the Atlantic coast. He sailed from Callao in April, 1(>4(), with four vessels. At Cape San Lucas he dispatched one of these to explore the Gulf of California, and with the remaining three continued up the coast. In latitude oJi degrees, after sailing a long distance among islands, Avhich he christened the "Archipelago de Lazarus," he observed the mouth of a great river, which he decided to enter. One of his vessels was sent further up the coast, under the cimimand of Caj)tain Bernardo, while with the other two he ascended the stream, ^vhose great pro])ortions won from him the title of " Rio de los Reyes," or " River of Kings." This he followed in a northeasterly direction a long distance, finally reach- ing its source in an inunense lake, which he named " Lake Belle." This was the country of a wealthy and civilized nation, whose chief town, on the south shore of the lake, was called Conasset, and who entertained the strangers who had so unexpectedly come among them in a most hospitable manner. This lake was evidently on the summit of the divide between the ^vaters of the two oceans, for flowing from it in an opposite direction from the river he had STRAITS OK JTTAN DE FirCA AND UIVKH OF KFNOS. 43 ascended was another large stream, which he caUed " Parmentier." Lea\nng his vessels at Conasset, he descended the Pariuentier until he entered another lake, upon which he bestowed his o^vn name, from which he passed through a narrow strait into the Atlantic ocean. This last passage he named " Strait of Ron(piillo," in honor of the captain of one of his vessels. Thus, through a continuous waterway of rivers and lakes, he h;ul passed through the entire con- tinent of North America. When that story was written the author little dreamed that in the latitude assigned to this wondeiful passageway the continent was more than five thousand miles in width. Having entered the At- lantic the Admiral soon encountered the Boston \essel which it was feared- had designs upon the Spanish possessions in the Pacific. The captain of the colonial craft was Nicholas Shapley, and on board was its o\vner, one Seymour Gibbons, whom Fonte described as "a fine gentleman, and major-general of the largest colony in New England, called Maltechusetts" Fonte decided to treat these strangers as peaceful traders, and the repn^sentatives of these two nations indulged in a series of mutual entertainments which appear to have given the Admiral gi'eat satisfaction. He then returned to the Pacific l)y the route he had come, finding his vessels waiting for him in good condition in Lake Belle, the inhabitants of Conasset having refrained from molesting them. At the mouth of the River of Kings he was joined by Bernardo, who had an e([ually wonder- ful tale to relate. He, too, had discovered a gi-eat river, in latitude 01 degrees, and had ascended it to its soiu"ce in a large lake. These he called " Rio de Haro," and " Lake Velasco." From the lake he fiscended another stream in canoes as high as the seventy-ninth par- allel, but observing the land " still trending north, and the ice rested on the land, he l)ecame satisfied that there was no comnumication out of the Atlantic Sea by Davis' Strait**; for the natives had con- ducted one of his seamen to the head of Davis' Strait, which termi- nated in a fresh lake, of about thirty miles in circumference, in the eightieth degree of north latitude, and there were prodigious moun- tains north of it." He, therefore, returned to the Pacific to rejoin his commander. Fonte was satisfied from the report that the Straits of Anian did not exist, and returned to Peru to report that fact, 44 HI8T0RV OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. and the woiidevfnl i-ivei- loufe he had discovered thnmgh the con- tinent. This whole story is utterly al)surd, in the light of our jwesent knowledge of geography, hut was fai- from being ^o at the time it was promulgated. Yet it eontains enough inconsistencies ami pal- pable errors to luiAe even then condemned it in the eyes of a critical reader. The statement that in 1(540, (mly ten years after Boston vva,s founded, the people of that struggling c(.lony were searching for the Straits of Anian is too improl)aide foi- belief. This English historian should have known, also, that Massachusetts was ijoverned at the date mentioned )>y John Winthrop and not by Seymour Gib- bons, whc^se name does not ai)pear at all in the list of iVew Entrland governors or " maj( )r -genera Is." N, ,t the slightest reference is mmle to it in the records of Spain or Peru, and it is now generally con- ceded that the story is a creation of James Petiver, an eminent nat- uralist, \\ho ^\-as a frerpient contributor to the magazine in which it first appeared. CHAPTER IV. VOYAGES AND EVENT8 OK THE HEVKNTKENTH (JENTUHY. rhU'ip orders a Voyage along the Pac'ijic Coaxt—lieAixonn Aimlyned hij Torquemada and Venegas — Vlwulno sent out hij the Vireroi/ in 1596 — Viscaino's .second Voi/age in 100^2- -Raragen of the Scui-vq— lie Enters Monterey —Arg a tnent of the Cktiin that he Entered San Franciaco Bay Earliest Positioe Knowledge of that Harbor Vis- cai.no goes to Latitude 4'2° ami returns : but Aguilar reaches ^3° Vajje Blanco ami the River of Aguilar- California Supposed to be an Island Viscaino dies after Obtaining a Royal Mandate to occupy Monterey-Spain Ceuses all Exploration ed to the voyages of \vhieh they speak, it is now necessary to turn hack to these times and see what wa,s actually l)eing accomplished. The first thin<^ to be fouiid affectiuir Oregon is the voyage of Sebastian Viscaino. It has l)een seen that at the very time when Juan de Fuca was impor- tuning the Spanish monai'ch for recognition of his services, accord- ing to Lock's letter, that r(»yal personage ordere seen and known. His majesty had also lieen informed that ships, sailing from China to Mexico, ran great risks, particularly near Cape Meiwlocino, where the stones are most violent, and tiiat it would be advantageous to have that coa-xt surve.\ed thence to Acapulco, so 4r. niSTOKY OK WILLAMETTE VALLKY. that till! Hhips, mostly belonginj? to hiw majesty, Hhoiild find places for relief and refreshment when needed. Whereupon his majesty ordered the ('ount de Monte- rey, Viceroy of Mexico, to have those coasta surveyed, at his oivn expense, with all care and diligence. ILilf a century later another Spanisli historian, Venegaw, gave the foHowing reasons for Spain's an.xiety to become better infonnetl <»f the coast above Cape Mendocino: — That in the meantime the English should find out the so-nmch-desired passage to the South Sea, by thu north of America and above California, which passage is not universally denied, and one day may be found; that they may fortify them- selves on both sides of this passage, and thus extend the P^nglish dominion from (he north to the south of America, so as to border on our possessions. Should English colonies and garrisons be established along the coast of America on the South Sea beyond Cape Mendocino, or lower down on California itself, England would then, without control, reign mistress of the sea and its commerce, and be able to threaten by land and sea the territories of Spain ; invade them on occasion from the E., W., N. and S., hem them in and press them on all sides. In this is contained no hint of Juan de Fnca; and if the conduct of men can be considered as indicative of their nu)tives, it must be admitted that the King, the Viceroy and the coniuumders of the vari- ous expeditions, Avere utterly ignorant of the Greek's alleged voyage, notwithstanding Lock's letter states that the old pilot had in vain urged the Viceroy and the King to take possession of the Straits of Fuca. The Viceroy of Mexico did not feel an interest in the Straits of Anian, or the California Coast, deep enough to render him eager to explore them at his own expense, as commanded to do l)y the king; yet he dared not disobey the royal mandate. lie made a showing of compliance, by dispatching Sebastian Viscaino from Acapulco, in the spi'hig of 159(5, with thi'ee vessels. These did not jn'oceed beyond Lower California, where two feeble and unsiicc«^ssfid efforts were made to plant colonies, leaving the great objects of the expe- dition untouched. The death of the king, in 1508, served as an excuse for ceasing even these feeble efforts, Avhich made extensive drafts upon the Viceroy's revenue. The respite was only temporary, however, for Philip IIL followed his father's ideas on the subject, and peremptorily ordered his representative in Mexico to make these explorations without delay. There was nothing now to do but to comply with the King's command, and an expedition was fitted out, composed of two vessels and a small fragata^ and entrusted to tlie command of Viscaino. VOYAGES AND EVENTS OF THE SEVENTP:ENTII OENTUKY. 47 Ico, Till' fleet Huilcd May 5, 1 ()()•_», from Aoipiilco, well sii|»|)ll('(I with ]»il(>tH, (Iraughtsii It'll and jn-iests — the first to navigate the ships, the second to make nia])s (»f the eoiist, and the thii'd to kee])aii aeeiirate account of the voyage, a literary feat few besides priests were al»le to acc()iin)lish in those (hiys, when the sword was mightier than the pen. The juiestly autiiorship of the records of the voyage is fully attested by the passage in Toriiiiemada, which, in speaking of the head winds which baffled the vessels for a long time, says that they were produced "by the foe of the human race, in order to ju'eveiit the advance of the ships, and to delay the discovery of tiiese coun- tries, and the conversion of their inhabitants to the ( athoiic faith." As the fleet advanced scurvy made its a])j)earance among the seamen, and its terrible ravages added to the adverse winds to con- vince the priests that the Evil One was d(»iiig his utmost to oppose their progress. In the face of all this the vessels steadily advanced iiortlnvard, entering successively the ports of San Quentin, San Diego and Monterey. Sixteen of the crew having died and many others being utterly incapacitated for duty by the horrible malady, it was decideil at Monterey to send one of the vessels back with the invalids. This ship was commanded l)y Torebio (xomes de Corvan, and reached Acajmlco, with but few of her crew alive, after a voy- age whose horrors have no [)arallel in the annals of the sea. On the third of January, 1(103, tlie two remaining vessels sailed fi-om Monterey, and were soon afterwards se[)arated by a violent storm, and were not again united. Viscaino, in the larger (me, instituted a seai'cli for the wreck of a Manila galleon, which had been cast away on this part of the coast eight years before. It was for a h)ng time supposed that he entered San Francisco Harbor, sir., e Tortpie- mada says: " He anchored ])ehind a point of rocks calievi La Punta de los lieyes, in the port of San Francisco;" but that idea does not seem consistent with other facts, and is not endorsed by the best authorities. It does not seem possible that an explorer could have passed the Golden Gate and entered the \vondei'ful harbor of San Francisco w^ithout making such a record and description ot it as would leave no room for error. As in the case of Drake, Viscaino was engaged in the search for something, which, upon entering this beautiful bay, he would have congratulated himself upon discover- ing; and he certainly would have taken as much pains to describe it 4« HISTORY OF WILLAMETTK VALLKT. as he (lid other and comparatively in^or of refuge, and here, in the most desirable loeality pt»ssil»le, was a magnificent liarhor that could hold the fleets of the world; yet upon his return to Mexico he strongly urged the Viceroy to estaldish stations at the greatly inferior harhoi-s of San I)ieg«» and Monteivy, an, when a pai-ty of Spaniards unexpectei* tlie war ships of hos- tile nations. On the twentieth of January, Viscaino, ha\ing been unsuccessfid in his search for the wrecked galleon, again sailed noithward. He proceeded as far as latitude 42", where he ol)sei'ved a lai'ge white bluff, uj)on which he bestowed the title of "San Sebastian." Dis- couraged by the unfavorable weather, the terrible sufferings of his crew from scurvy an to be the only ports in that ivgion capable of nlielteiing a vessel from a severe storm, ai"! one of these must have V)eeii enterer Lock's letter gave to the world the dubious tale of Juan de Fuca. According to Torcpieniada, :i was "supposed that this river is one leading to a great city which was discovered by the Dutch when they were driven thither l)y storms, and that it is the Straits of Anian through which the shij) [uissed in sailing from the North Sea to the South Sea, and that the city called Quivira (the one which led Coronado such a dance sixt}' years l»efore) is in those paits; and that this highei" latitutle is the region referred t(» in the account wliicii his majesty read, and which induced him to order this expnlido;!.'" There is here a serious discrepancy— an error of as great a magnitude as the one cited as evidence of the mythical character of the alleged voyage of Juan de l^^ica. No great I'iver exist** in latitude 48°, but a short distance U}) the coast is the Ump- ([ua, whic-li, though l)y no means jis great a stream a.s this one vvjw supjntsed to l»e, may he considered of sufficient j)ropoitions to duty as the River of Aguilar. The same may be said of Rogue River, some uiiles below the [)oint indicated. Chie can not h"lp noticing hei'e the foundation of the " River t)f Kiugs" story after- wards concocted hy Petiver. The great I'iver supjxtsed to lead through the continent, anf Aniaii, or anything of a similar nature, did not long obtain. A few yeai-s later it wiis conceived that this and the C(»lorad<» rivers were the two ends of a long inland channel, which united in sucli a immner jis to make California an island. This theory found a [dace upon the nuips for a short time, till it was discovered that the Col- Oiv'do led off ti> the northeastward instead of toward the northwest. It wa.x thei, sup|»osed that this was a vast river flowing from un- known regi(»ns in the heart of the continent, such a stream a.^ the (/'(»hnnl)ia wa>< in later years found to be, and nnips thereaftei- bort^ upon tlieni an indication of such a rivei', hearing the name "River VOYAGES AND EVENTS OF THE SEVENTEENTH fENTIin'. 51 of Aguilar," anl varioun* other titles, which, with the reason for he- stowing them, will appear later on in speaking of the journey of the early explorers of the Rocky Mountains. Viscaino had kept in view the chief object of his voyage — the discovery of a suital)le harlior of i-efuge for vessels in tlie Manila trade — and immediately upon liis return urged upon the Viceroy the desirability of esta})lishing supply stations at San Diego and Monterey, the only suitable harbors he had encountered. He reported that diligent incpiiry among the nations had elicited the information that California was extremely fertile and rich in the [nvcious metals. There was one serious objection to so doing, which had great weight with the Viceroy. lie had been instructed in the royal decree to accomplish these things at his own expense, and he was nuich averse to devoting Ins private revenues, which were, no doubt, very con- siderable, to the accom])lishment of public measures. In vain Vis- caino urged, the Viceroy was obdurate, and, at last, the explorer went to 8})ain to lay the mattei- before his sovereign. xVfter several years of attendance at coiu't he succeeded, in 1()<)(), in procuring a royal mandate to the ^'iceroy, directing him to establish a supply station at Monterey. While preparations for doing so were advanc- ing Viscahio died, and the Viceroy seized the opj)ortunity to defeat the projected colony. For a centiuy and one-half thereafter Spain made no further attempt to ex])h)re the coast noith of California. The East India vessels first sighted land on their home voyage in the vicinity of Ca])e Men(h)cino, and then folhtwed the coast south to Mexico; l)Ut north of that the Pacific (.'oast of North America remained a tc7'ra incognita foi' ages. The secret of this a))parent apathy was the unwillingness of the viceroy.- to explore new rt-gions at their own expense. There is a traditior floating about in South- ern Oregon that one of these galleons was driven out of its coui-se anbably an outgiowth of the attempt of Aguilar tx> enter some river in that ivgion. CHAPTER V. HUDSON'S BAY, CAPE HORN, AND BEHRJNG'S STRAITS. Discovery of Dams' Straits — Henry Hudson^ William liuj/fn, and other Emplorers in the North- Atlantic — Dutch Nainyators Discover the Paasaye around Cope Horn — Burcaneers Swarm into the Pacific hy the New Route — Otondo attempts to Colonize Lower California — The Hudson'' s Bay Company Chartered, in 1009, to Discover the Straits of Anian — Prlnleyes Graiited hy the Charter — The Company Heads off all Efforts at Explmntion — Russians cross Siberia and Explore the Pacifc — Plans of Peter the Great — Discovery of Beh- ringh Straits and Alaska — Voyage of Tchirlkof — Behriny Discovers Mount St. Ellas and Dies on Behrini/s Isle — The Early E%ir Trade of the North Padfc—Benyowshy Takes a Cargo of Ears to Canton and thus Reveals the Magnitiule of the Pacific Ocean — Rus- sian Idea of Alaskan (ieography. s EVKKAL iuiportaut voyages were iiuule ]>y English inarinei's loring the seas abont the seventy-fifth parallel. This was John Davis. After searching in vain for a j)assage westward, he finally discovered Davis' Straits, hut was compelled to return to P^ngiand hefore making a thorough exploration of th«'m, leaving in douht the (piestion of whether through them, or hy some hody of water coiuiecting with them, the Pacific might not he reached. Ahont the same time the great fi-eehooter, Thonnus C^avendish, returned with his vessel laden with tin- plunder of the South Sea, and Davis, dazzled hy the glittering pr(tsj>ect of great wealth t<» Im' gained hy plunch^iing the Sj)anish ay, a.s well as tlie straits leading to it, he w is hut following the course pursued a century hefoiv by ("oi'tereal. William Baffin was the next n()t<'(l mai'inei- to navigate these seas. In KJIH he sailed north, between America and (Jr«*enland, into Baffin's Bay. Other explorei's followed in the wake of tliese m«»i'e noted ones, and exam- ined the coast cai'efully as high ii.s the seventy-fifth parallel. It was of no use; the Sti'aits of Anian coidd not be found, (xeographei's Itecame satisHnl that if discoverey civil war Itetween the peo])le and the House of Stuai't, and America waw neg- lected for half a century. Meanwhile, an important discovery wjus ma(h' in an opp(»site dii-ection, one most di>;isrrous to ihe Pacitic connnerce of Spain. While Baffin was jtui'suing his search among the iceViergs and floes of the Arctic, two Dutch navigators, \ an Sch»)Uten and Le- maire, passed south of tiie Straits of Magellan and 'liscoverei)ressed .pp the Netherlands and sustained the terrible In([uisition. Privateers of the three hostile nations swarmed into the South Sea and plun- dered her connnerce. Buccaneers attacked the Spanish possessions in America from both the Atlantic and Paciflc sides. Especially did the Dutch aid in tliis way the desperat«' struggle of the Nether- :)4 HISTORY UK WILLAMKTTK VALI.KY lands for li.(le|)eneoial rendt'zvous heini; the Bay of Piehilinuue, wliiih won for them the title of " Piehilintrues," a name both feared and hated l>y the mariners of Spain. From this rt'treat they issued to eommit their ravaires, and often returned with the rich prize of a Manila galleon. The feelde efforts of Spain to dislodije these Uold maraudeis, who wer<' literally drawing the life blood of the nation, were of no avail. Several times she made great preparations to exterminate them, but even if driven out they returned again in greater munbers as soon as the way was open. F^inally, in 1()8.'{, an effoi-t was nnule to plant a e(dony in L(»wer California, which slntuld serve as a basis for keeping the gulf five from pirates, and of rescuing from threatene, Charles the II. grantee obtained in trade with the Indians, led to the organization of a company to engage in that profitable business. They applied to the King for a royal charter, which was granted in consideration of their agreement to search for the nuich-desired Straits of Anian. Tin two-fold object — that of the King and that of the company — was expressed in the charter which created "The Company of Adventurers of England Trading into Hudson's Bay." This object, as expressed, was "for the discovery of a new passage into the South Sea. and for the find- HI'DSON S HAY, f-APK MOHN, AND BKItKINOS STltAITS. 00 iiii; <»f some fnule in furs, minerals and otlier considerahle commo- dities." The comjtany was granted the exchisive right of the "trade anlete ignorance of the region in whi«'h they were doing a Inisiness which assumed gigantic pi'oportions in a few years. Thus it happened tinit no more efforts of conse(iuence were made V)y England to discover the Straits of Anian for a whole century after the granting of this nuignificent charter, the com|»any being able to prevent or bring to grief all e\])e(liti<»ns of this character. Such was the soulless conduct of this corporate nionopolv to the govern- ment to which it owed its very existence. From the time Aguilar's little vessel conveyed her atHictcd crew back to Mexico in KJO.'i, more than a century jiassed before another 5(1 HISTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK V'AliLKY. voyage was attempted. Not a vessel cast its shadow upon the waters of the North Pacific, nor a Caucasian eye ga/ew far that was, or what was the nature of the region coveted, neither he nor any one else had the faintest glimmering of knowledge. It might be a great ocean of valueless water, a sea filled with islands, a continent of ice, or a land of plenty, " flowing with milk aneen done. This consis(;cd of two vessels, Rehring being in connnand of one, and Alexei Tchirikof, a Russian, who had been his lieutenant on the first voyage, of the other. Anne die/. Petei'. Behriui; steered a south- easterly course for many days, and at hust reached latitude 4<)°, with- out having encounteied land. This is the latituvend)er tliev siijhted a small island Iviny between the Aleutian Archipelago and Kamtcluitka, and runniuiii: the vessel close in they all landed, with the purpose of s])endinij; the winter. The island wjts a small, rocky speck on tlie ]>osom of the sea, consisting of a few barren granite peaks thrust up from the water, whose sides were continually Ifiwhed by a lieavy surf and upon which the waves furiously chv^hed when storms swept across the surface of the ocean. Here they lived uj)on the flesh of fiu'-bearing animals which abounded in the water, and upon the fish they were able to catch. Their house was constructed of the tind>ers of their vessel, which was wrecked upon the rocky coast during a gale inunediately after the\' disembarked, and whose broken pieces were washed up by the surf. Their sufferings did not end with their removal to this new abode. Disease had taken too firm a grasp upefore sjiring thirty of his followers also found a grave on those water- l)ound rocks. The skins of slaughtered animals served them foi' l)oth clothes and bed- ding. Had this island been located at the same latitude in the Atlantic Ocean not one of these enfeel)led men could have siu'vived the rigors of winter. Here the great ocean river, known as the Japan Current, imparts its genial warmth to the islands of the Aleutian Archipelago and fringes the icy peaks and glaciers of Alaska with a coast-line of verdure. Owing to tliis great modify- ing element even floating ice fi'om the frozen Arctic is not seen in Behring's Sea, though on the Atlantic side the ocean is rendered unsafe by floes and icebergs at a much lower latitude. Upon the return of spring the survivoi-s constructed a small vessel from the wreck of the S^. Peter^ and when that long task was finislnHl, em- barked and sailed directly westward, reaching the Bay of Avatscha in August. That bleak island which had been their winter home, and where were the graves of their commander and many of their comrades, they christened "Behring's Isle," and as such it is known to the present day. Twenty years elapsed before another official exploration was made, and half a century passed ere the full account of this fatal \ 60 IIISTOKV OK AVIliLAMKTTK VALLKY. one was puhlislied to tlic world. AccompaMying Hrhriiig on the .SV. Peter was a (Trenuan surgeon iiiid st-icntist named Steller, and his jonrnal, wliicli was not puhlishcd until 1795, long after the Alaskan coast had hcMi thoroughly exjdored by Spanish, Russian, English and American na\igators, is the oidy record })reserved of the adventures and terrihlc sufferings endured by the discoverers of ^Vlaska. The general features of the voyage, however, were well known in Europe soon after its fatal termination. The skins which the survivoi's wore when they retui-ned to A\atscha were found to be exceedingly valuable — prol)ably seal and sea-otter— and several private expeditions were fitted out by Russian traders, to visit the islands lying to the eastward, in search of fnrs. In this way the fur trade of the Pacific began, and before the government was pre- pared for another ex[)edition this trade had i-eached considerable projiortions. (ireeidiow thus describes the infancy of this great industry: — The trade thus commenced was, for a time, carried on by individual adventurers, each of whom was alternately a seaman, a hunter, and a merchant; at length, however, some capitalists in Sil)eria employed their funds in the pursuit, and expe- ditions to the islands were, in consequence, made on a more extensive scale, and with greater rej?ularity and efticiency. Trading stations were established at partic- ular points, wliere the furs were collected by persons left for that object ; and vessels were sent, at stated periods, from the ports of Asiatic Russia, t« carry the articles required for the use of the agent-s and hunters, or for barter with the natives, and to bring away the skins collected. The vessels employed in this commerce were, in all respects, wretched and inse- cure, the planks being merely attnched together, without iron, by leathern thongs ; and, as no instruments were used by the traders for determining latitudes and lon- gitudes at sea, their ideas of the relative positions of the places which they visited were vague and incorrect. Their navigation was, indeed, performed in the most simple and unscientifii! manner possible. A vessel sailing from the liay of Avatscha, or from Cape Lopatka, the southern extremity of Kamtchatka, could not have gone far ea.stward, without falling in with one of the Aleutian islands, which would serve lus a mark for her course to another; and thus she might go on from point to point throughout the whole chain. In like manner she would return to Asia, and if her course and rate of sailing were observed with tolerable care, there could seldom be any uncertainty as to wJiether slie were north or south of the line of the islands. Many vessels were, nevertheless, annually lost, in consequence of this want of knowledge of the coast, and want of means to ascertain positions at sea ; and a large number of those engaged in the trade, moreover, fell victims to cold, starvation and scurvy, and to the enmity of the bold natives of the islands. Even EH late as 18(K», it was (ralculated that one-third of these vessels were lost in each year. The history of the Russian trade and establishments in the North Pacific, is a series of details of dreadful disasters and sufTerings ; and, whatever opinion may be entertained a.i to the humanity of the adventurers, or the morality of their pro- f'Al'K IIOHN, HUDSON S HAY, AND HKllIMN(i S STRAITS. »k, the i)rincipal fur- trading pointH, were carrierl to Irkutsk, the capital of Kastern Silieria. wliencc Home of them were taken to P^urope; the greater portion were, however, .sent to Kiakta, a small town just within the Russian frontier, close to the Cliincse town of Maimat- chin, through which places all the eonuuerce l)etween these two empires passed, agreeably to a treaty concluded at Kiakta in 172K. In return for the furs, whicli brought higlier prices in China tliaii anywhere else, teas, tol)acco, rice, porcelain, and silk and cotton goods, were iiroughl to Irkutsk, where all the most valuable of these articles were sent to Europe. These transportations were effected by land, except in some places where the rivers were used as the channel of conveyance, no commercial exportation having been made from Kastern Russia by sea before 177!t; and wb.en the immense distances between some of the points above mentioned are considered (Irkutsk to Pekin, 1,8(K) miles; to Hay of Avatscha, S.+'iO nnles; to St. Petersburg, 3,7(>0 ndles), it beconn s evident that none but olijects of great value, in comparison with their bulk, at the ])lace of their <'onHumption. could have been tluis transported with proHt to those engaged in the traeing then, as now, the <;eneral fur market of the woi'hl. Not until 1771 was a earj^o taken directly by sea to Canton, and not until then was it known that the Bay of Avatseha and the Chine.se Sea were eonnected by water. Foi" the first time was realized the inunense magnitude of the Paeific; that the same waters which beat U[)on Beliring's Isle washed the shores of the thousand islands of the South Sea, gazed up at the frowning rocks of Cape ll<»rn, and bore the Spanish galleons on their long voyage from Acapulco to the Indies. This innovation was not by any means the result of Russian enterprise. A few of the patriotic defenders of Poland, who had been e.xiled to Siberia by the Russian Czar, made their e.scape in a small vessel from a port on the south- west coast of Kanitchatka, under the leadership of a Hungarian exile, Count Maurice de Henyowsky. After nuich aindess w.inder- ing among the Aleutian Islands, where they procured from the natives a large (juantity of furs, they sailed southward and finally reached Canton, where their cargo found a good market. This was the first vessel fr(»m the Russian Possessions of the Pacific to enter the harbor of a foreign nation, and the spreading of the information that rich fin- regions at the north were accessible to Canton by sea was one of the gr<'atest factors in the sultsecpient rapid growth of the fur trade. H2 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTK VALLEY. The inc'ivasiiit; value of the fur business led the Russian Govern- ment to (lispatcji other exploring expeditions in 17<»6and 17()9. 'riicy found the coast, wherever they reached the mainland at all, fringed with islands and the sea through which they passed dotted with them. Tiiat the land on the east side of Behring's Strait« was of considerable [»roportions was evident. This they called "Alaska," (»r "Aliuska,'' and sup[)osed it to be a large island. In 1774 a map was picpared, representing their ideas of the geography of llussian America. I'pon this the coast of America was represented as run- ning nortliwesterly from California to the seventieth degi'ee ot lati- tu(U', which was its extreme northern and western limit. Ikying lu'tween America and i\sia, in that latitude, was a vast sea of islands, of which the largest was Alaska, with only the channel of Behring's Straits separating it from the coast of Asia. With this map was published an account of the last two voyages, the book being enti- tled " Dcsci'iption of the Newly Discovered Islands in the Sea be- tween Asia and America." Such was the Russian idea of a region in which four official explorations had lieen made, and private enter- prise had engaged in the fur trade for thirty years. It renniined for an Englishman, the celebrated Captain Cook, only a few years later, to i-eveal t(» them their error. He commanded the first English vessel to visit the North Pacific, and in (me voyage straightened out the geographical tangle the Russians had made in Alaska, and reformed the ideas the Spaniards entertained about the coast they had several times explored fiu-ther to the south. Such wa.s the difference between scientific navigation and haphazard sailing. CHAPTER VI. FROM CAPTAIN CARVKH TO CAPTArX COOK. TheJeHwitu (Julonize Lower California -The Franrixcautt Kiiter Califor- nia -Discovery of San Francisco Bay — Early Frtnch Explorers - The, River of the West — Verendrye Explores the Rocky Mountains — France Sells Louisiana to Sj>a/n and Ijooxes Canada to England by Conquest — Journey of Captain Career — He cS<), a council of chief authorities in Mexico Jecich'd that tin* re- duction of California by means of official colonies and expeditions was im])racticablc. A few years later the Society of Jesus, whose zealous missionaries had long since carried the cross into the remote fnmtiers (tf Mexico, silicited the privilege of planting a colony and founding missions in Lower C'alifornia; and tliough this was just the object the government had sought so long to accomplish, it took ten years to obtain the royal warrant, so jealous was the throne of the growing ])ower of the Jesuits. In KiOT tlie first mis- sion was founded at Loretto, and in 17(j7, when tlie Society of Jesus was deprived of all ita property in the Spanish d(»minions and its mend)ers thrown into prison upon the order of Charles LIL, there existed in Lower California sixteen thriving missions and thirty-six villages. This rich inheritance was bestowed upon tlie Dominicans, while at the same time the Franciscans were granted full and exclusive authority to found missions in Alta California and take possession in the name of the Spanish crown. The first missioji in Alta Califoi-iiia was founde, which was followed by that of San C/arU»s, at Monterey, August 8, 1770; San Antonii) , 1770; and others at later dates, to the total number of twenty-two. The missions became so numerous and })ovverful that the Mexican government })egan in 1)S'J4 a series of h(>stile acts whicli ended in 1845 in their com[)lete secularization, jtist one year before the country was coiKpiered by the I'niteci States. It was in 17()1>, while GasjKiv de Portala, at the head of a |tarty from San Diego, was searching foi- the Harbor of Monterey, that the Bay of San Francisco was discoxered and named, (hi the thirtieth of ()ctol)er they came u])on a l)ay which "they at once FROM CAPTAIN CAEVER TO CAPTAIN COOK. 65 recognized," says Father Crespi, the historian who accompanied them. There exists now no record of any prior y the Carolinas, but further west the boundaries were (juite indefinite, conflicting with the Louisiana of the Frencli. France claimed as Louisiana all north of the month of the Missis- sippi and west of the Alleghanies, the west<'rii boundary l)eing in- definite because no one knew how far toward tlie (>cci<1ent the con- tinent exti'uded. She also claimed the region of the St, I^awrence and the cliain of great lakes under the general title of (-anada, 'oiniuiT and inter* pn J' ing an> vision either expressed or understood. The Hudson's Bay country was also i'lainu'd l»y France, though not with much persistence, and 66 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. it was lit that time actually in the possession of England, in the person of the Hudson's Hay Company. The English colonies were east of the Alleghanies, from Main to Georgia. In 17i;5 Erance relinquished tt» England lier claim upon the Iluilson's Bay region, and turnef stations lie- tween Canada and Louisiana, amonu' them the citv of St. Louis, and even penetrated th" unknown wilderness lying between the headwatei's of the Mississipju and the "Shining Mountains," a.s they first called the lioi-ky Mountains, whose snowy sides and lofty spires of rock reficited the bright rays of the sun hundreds of miles to the westward. The most noted of these French pioneers were La Salle, Pere Marquette, Haron La Ilontan. Chevalier La Wrendrye and his sons, Father Hennepin, Dupratz and Charlevoi.x. Nearly all of tJiese wrote accounts (»f their travels, ga\e descriptions •A the country and the native tribes, and from their own observa- tions and the information gleaned from the Indians made maps of that region, embracing a little which they knew and a great deal whicli hey guessed at. Thesi^ nnips, to say the least, are very queer. One of them, drawn in ITU* to show the results of a west- ern journey accomplished by La Hontan, is especially odd. It shows a great river (called the " Long River"), up which he |)assed, as entering the Mississippi in the region of Dubuque, Iowa. This was, l»eyond doid)t, the Missouri, though that stream is also i'e|)re- sented in its pro))er place whei'e it unites with the "Father of Waters," and is made to extend almost due west to the njountains. Passing across from the headwaters of the Mississip[)i and coming upon the Missouri so far to the noith, he natinaliy sup{>osed it to be another stream. I'p this he followed, af)j>arently branching (tfF to ascend the Platte. He descrilies thf upper f)art of the stream as a series of lakes and swamps. Some of Imn descriptions anfl the features of his map are very peeidiai', so much so that historians have l»een inclined t«» doubt the extent of his journey. There ih one featinv, how»'vei-, which tells in lii"< favor. The nuip shows, at some distaiure to the southwest of the point iudioHt«il a*i the west- FROM CAPTAIN CARVER TO CAPTAIN < OOK. ern limit of his wanderings, a large lake, which the Indians told him contained bitter water. This was undoubtedly Great Salt Lake, the one which years before the Indians of Mexico hud en- deavored to describe to the Spanish explorers. The lakes indicated {18 existing along the river beyond the point where rhe journey ended were probably so marked l)ecause he misunderstood the In- dians when tliey spoke of the numy large lakes existing in the region to the westward. One feature is \ery prominent in the reports of nearly all these early French explorers — the fact that beyond the "Shining Moun- tains" was a large river flowing westward to the " drreat Water," in the latitvide of the headwater^ of the Mississippi. This tlu'y learned from the Indians with whom thev came in contact. ThoU'di, with the exception of the Verendryes and their successors in com- mand along the Saskatchewan, probably none of them went further west than the Red River of tlie North; still the Indians of that region, in the years of peaceful intercourse or bloody hostilities uith the tribes beyond the mountains, imist have become suHicientiy familiar witii the geography of the ccmntry lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific to know of the existence of such a large stream lus the ('ohmibia. When the trappers a])peared among the Cheyennes, Crows, lilackfeet. Pawnees, Sioux, and other tribes. It century, they found them tx) ' pn V <|uite an intimate knowledge of the topography of the coinitry west of the mountains occupied by the Shosliones, Bannocks, Flatheaartici|)ated in the hostilities, during which his friends captured a squaw of t.ln' western tribe, and from her he learned that the river Howed many miles until it emptied int«t a great water where ships had been seen, on which were men with beards and white faces. The geographical statements are so accurate that there is no room to doubt the knowle^lge uf the Yazoo savage of the existence of the Columbia River; but his st;i,tement about ships and white men is historii-ally imj)ossible, suice no vessel ha^l ever visited the mouth of the Columbia, oi- even been so far north as that, unless it be admitted that Sir Francis Drake i-eached latitude 4S" and wa*« near enough to the ct>a.»!t to have the faces and l>eards of his men recognized; Imt that was a century and a half before, and if his visit was known to the Indians at all it wouhl probably be in the tornx of a legend about a great white birortion of the story was prolialtly a creation of the hulian, or an amj)litication of the tale, made l>y Dupratz himself. De 1/lsh', ge»»grapher of the Academy of Sciem-e, Pai'is, wrt>te March I'l, 171<>: "They tell me that among the Scioux «»f the Mississippi there are always Frenchmen trading; that the coui-se of the Mississippi is from north to west, an liiid a post ill 1 700 oil rlir liliic Kartli, iK-ur tlic site of Mankjito. The iinportniiitics of De I/lslt- and Prrc liodt* caused the govern- iiieiit to Ix'tiiii .-III eriertxetic policy of \\ Csterii ex])loratioii and occu- pation in I 7 I 7, coinniencinir with tlie re-estaUlishment of the fort of Dii Luth and another further west anioiiijf the Sioux. Other posts foHowed in rapid suci*ession. In 17'_*s, Seur de la Verendrye, wlio was in coniniand favoraldy considered hy Charles de lieauliju'iiois, (Tovernor-(iener;il of ("anada, and orders were given for the Htting out of an ex[)eelow Helena, making a portage aiNuind the (ireat Falls, which they described in their rejiort, differing in no essential p;irticular from the descri|)tion gixcn hy Lewis and Clarke sixty-two yejirs later. At this point, now known as the "(iatewayof the .Moun- taiiw," they ascended the summit of the range on tlie I'Jth day of January, 174H, not far from Hear Tooth Peak, of which they speak HISTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLEY. jis a tusk-sha[)e(l niuuntain. They then passed iij) Deep Creek (Smith River), erossed tlie luountaiiis to tht' headwaters of the Musselshell, and thence across to the Yellowstone at thf mouth of Pryor River. They foHowed up this stream t<» the Stinkintr Water, and on over the mountains to Wind River. Ilci-c their j)roirress was arrested l>v a fierce war ras.rinir between the Snakes and Sans Arc branch of the Sioux; but they were told by the friendly Snakes of the h>cation t»f T(merue and (rreen Rivei"s. Thev then returned to tlie Upper Missouri, and raised a moininient of stone near the mouth of tile Jefferson— in what they called the " IVtite ("ei'ise" (Clioke Cherry country) — as a witness that they took ])ossession of the country in the name of the Kiui; of France. This they chi'is- tened " BeauhaiMiois," and beneatli it deposited a leaden plate bear- inij the French coat-of-arms. Tiiis ceremony of dedication was j)er- formed May l'.», 1744. They tln'n resumed the liomeward journey. North of the Assiniboine they explored the Saskatchewan -called by them "Posk<»iac" — as far as the forks, and built two foi-ts, one near Lake Dauphin (Swan Lake) and the other on the " River (\^s Biches." Tliey ivached the Lake of the Woods on the iM of July, and I'eported the northei-n I'oute by tlie Saskatchewan as preferabh' to the Missouri, l»ecause of the altsence of daui^er of meetiniz; Span- iards, whom tliey feared mi»?ht be encountereeen in- formed by the Indians that the " Shininii' Mountains" were full of gold. AVhen they readied the mountains they were disapj»«»inted to find that it was not gold, l»ut barren rock and snow, which reH;'cted the rays of the sun so l)rightly, and they changed their name to " Stony, or Rocky, Mountains." The fuilhest west the inf<»rmation gained by the Verendrye l)i'othei*s extends is to the Flathead Indians, of whom they speak, living just west of the main chain of the Rockies and within the limits of Oregon, as that tei-ritory existed when it was in dispute ))etween tlie United States and (In'at Britain, but now in the western extremity of Montana. They encountered a band of Flatheads. who told them of their countrv west of the t-'KOM CAPTAIN CAKVEK To , 1 74'.», while plaiming a tour up the Saskatchewan. Jlis son wa.s dej)osed by Jon(piierre, the next (Tovernor-(Teneral, who dis])atched twy their respective colonies in America, and which is known on this side of the Atlantic as the " French and Indian War." As that struggle drew toward its close, and France realiz»*y this crown- ing victory of the war l\a«l ahvady j)assed into tlie keeping of an- othei'. Louisana belonged to Spain. The treaty of Paris, in \l(u'>, conveyed Canada to (Ireat Britain, and thns France was shorn of all her possessions in America. All these frontiei- posts were aban- doned, and the Ro(!ky Monntains again became the undisputed home of the aborigine. AVe now approach the memorable journey of the none too vera- cious Captain Carver, the man wlio stands sjutnsor for the word "Oivgon." This luis led, by reason of the sujterHciality <»f many historical writers, to the bestowing upon him <»f all the credit of nniking known to the world the existence of the Cohnnbia River, when the fact is that it was known long before his d«tubtful journey, and his account of it, so far from being written ui)on original infor- imition, Wits but the re-publication of facts made known l)y the French explorers above mentioned, many years befy Sii- Fraiu-is Drake, of course l»e- loii<^ to the English." The caittjiin ex])«>ses hi^ want of fitness as a geogi'a])her or historian liy assertinir that Drake discovered the Straits of Anian. The circumstances of I)rake's voyaL'e were more widely known than those of any other mivisfator, and in neithei" of the two accounts j»ul»lished was there a stat<'ment that the gi-eat rol»l»er had discovered those mythical straits, <»i- any other ])assaj?e leadinir inland from the Pacific. Carver did not seem to consider his adventures or discoviM'ies worthy of j»ul»lication until twenty years later, at a time when unusual inter»'sl was felt in Kni^land in the le that even iToin them it reached him thr(»u;i;h tiie inediiim of his Freneh predecessors. \\'henee Carver (h*rived his authority for calliuir the Jliver of the West "()reen of Archbishop Hlauchet, speaking (tf himself in the third jterson: — Jonuthan ('arvi-r, an EiiKli**!! captain in tile wars l)y wliicli Canada came into tin' poHHt'Hsion otMircat IJritaiii, al'ti'itlie peace, left Boston, June (J, ITtiti, crossed tlie <'ontinent to tlic l'acit1<', and returned October, ITtiK. In relation to liis travels, which were puMisherl in 1774, and reiiuhlislied in 177S, he is the first wlio nialtes use of the woni "Oregon" Tlie orijj;in of that word has never liecn discovered in the country. 'I'iie tirst Catholic missionaries — Kathcr Deniers, now Uisliop of Van- couver Island, and Father lilanchct, now Hisliop of (Jregon City— arrived in Oregon in 1838. They traveled tliroufili it for many years, from south to north, from west to east, visiting and teaching the numerous tril)es of Oregon, Wasliington Territor.y and British possessions. But in all their various excm-sions among the Indians the.v never succeeded in finding the origin of tlie word " Oregon." Now it appears that what c<)uld not lie found in Oregon lias been iliscovercd hy Ar(rhl)isliop Blan- chet in Bolivia, when he visited that country, (Miile ami Peru In IHV) and lH-">7. Tlie word "Oregon," in his opinion, most undoul)tedl,v luw its root in the Spanish word o/v_/rt (ear), and came from tlie <|ualifying word orcjou (Itigeari. For it is probable that the Spaniards, who first discovered and visited the country, when the.v saw tin Indians with liig ears, enlarged liy the load of ornaments, were natur- ally inclined to call them orrjon (big ears). That nickname, tirst given to the In- dians, l)ecanie also the name of the country. This exjilains how Captain ("arver got it and Hist made use of it. But the travelers, perhaps Carver himself, not knowing the Spanisli language, nor tlie peculiar pronunciation of the J in .Spanish, for facility sake would have written It and pronounced it Oriijoii, instead of Orvjon, in changing .) to g. Such, in all probability, must lie the origin of tlie word " Ore- gon." It cornea from the Si)anisli word Orc.jnn. This is cei'taiidy a scientific explanation, and were it oidy sus- tained hy facts would he a satisfjictory one; it will not, however, stand for ii moment the liijht of investigation. At the time (Carver nnide liis journey no Spanish exjilorer had set foot in Oregon nor had the least communication with its native inluihitants; tliey w^ere not even familitir enough with the coast line to he aware of the existence of the Columbia River. The only expeditious had been KKOM HAPTAIN CAKVKH T(» ( AP'J AIN COOK. 75 those of FeiTelo and Aijiiilai', and iieitliei' of these liad evcii made an attempt to kind. (V)ns(M|ueutly they had not and conld not apply the title Orcjon to its inhabitants — pec >]»!(' \\li(»ni they had never seen and of whom they knew notliiiii;. No allnsion is nnuU' to the natives of this nnknown kind in the record of any Spanish exjjlorer prevk)ns to tlnit date, and the Hisiiop's snj)|K)sition that they "disc(»vered and visited this eonntry," shows how nnfamiliar he was with the history (»f Spanish explorations on the I'aeitie Coast. His assertion that Carver crossed the e<»ntinent to tlu' Pacific is etpially at variance with the facts. The woi'd "Orciron" was nn- known to the Indians nntil after tin* coimtry was visite(l l»y trap- ])ers, and the liishoj* hims»'lf hears testimony to the fact that in all their extensive travels amoni,' the initi\ cs h«* and his missionary associates were nmd>le to find anthority foi- its nse. Thns we see that the Spaniards had not visited OreiLjon, and knowini; notliiiii; of its inhahitants conld not have called them "l»iii *'i»i- '\ that Carver did not visit the Columbia; that the word "( )i'eifon " was unknown by the Indians, aJld, therefore, could not have been conveyed 1 y them from ti'ibe to tribe nntil it reached Carver's ears; therefore, the Hishoj)''s theory is nntenabk'. E(jually so is the idea that Ore^ron was the Indian name of the Columbia, since if such were the case the early settleis of this region woidd have learned the name fi-om the natives, instead of having to teach it to them. The same objections are valid to the theory that the early Spanish t'X])lorers best«»wed the name because of the wild nnijoi'am {orii^auioii) foiuul alonj^ the coast, since we have seen that the Spaniards had never set foot on the coast of Oroji'on, and that the name nowhere ap[)ears in Spanish records. If eu{»hony of sound is to be relied upon, combined with the po[»idar but errone- ous idea that Oreiron wjis explore"! in early times l»y the Spaniards, then the writer desires to announce that he, also, has a theoi-y — that in sailing along the coast some romantic S])aniard conceived a resenddance between the graceful sununits of the Coast Range and the blue hills of his native Aragon, and bestowed that name upon this new land. To su[)port this he calls attention to the fact that the Spaniards named Mexico '*New S[)ain"; the Dutch called their settlement on the Atlantic coast " New Amsterdam," it being sub- sequently christened "New York" by the English; the region set- 7« HISTORT or .WILLAMETTE VALLEY. tle«l Uy tin* Puritans jind tin* MnssacliiisettH Colony was named "New Knsxland"; and the Frcni'h at one time called Canada "New France." Instances of this kind miylit lie easily inidtiplied, though, perhaps, the nearest and most convincing is the l»estowal of the title "New All)ion " upon California by Sir Francis Drake, because of the chalky hlufFs he had olisei'v«'d along the coast. Profe lied to give jdace to the Irishman, who believed Oregon to l>e named in honor of his royal ancestors, the O'Uegons. There we have not only euphony of sound, but correct orthography, combined with a proj)er degree of ignorance upon the subject. The traditionary policy of the Hudson's Ray Company to head off, or render nugatory, all attempts l»y the g<)vernment to exjdore its chartered domains in search of the Straits of Anian, or some other pjiwsage into the Pacific Ocean from the North Atlantic, was strictly adhered to during the eighteenth century. They did not want the government itself nor the j»eople to have any knowledge whatever of the regions lying contiguous to Hudson's Bay, To that end they kejjt to themselves all geographical knowledge gained year by year by tlulr re])resentatives in the c(»urse of business trans- actions, or when sent upon special journeys of exploration hy the com})any. In 1745 Parliament offered a reward of t**J(),(K>0 to any one discovering a passage into the Pacific from Hudson's Hay, l)ut no one made a serious effort to earn the money. The com})anv was powei'fid enough to })revent it. Nearly thiity years later, howevei", having become satisfied fi'om information gathered by their eni])loyees that no such ])assage whose disct)very had ostensibly been one of the leading <*bjects in organizing the com})any, they instructed Hearne to keep his weather eye open tov the Straits of Anian, and j)ermitteorte(l it up<»n his return to the eonipany's headcpnirtei's; also that no water passaire eoinun-ted the two ^reat bodies of water. Thou_i;h the journal kejtt by Ilearne was not published for twenty years, the company immediately eomminii- eated to the admii'alty the failurtMtf ll«'ai'ne to discover any North- west Passagt'. This seemed to «'nd all hop«' of findini;' such a waterway leading; out of Hudson's liay; but the discovery of the new sea opened the dooi' to new hopes. There mij^ht be a means of coimnunication between it and BafHn's Bay, and from it mii^ht possibly be found the h»n};-s(»ut;ht Straits of Anian, leadimcinty circumstances ea.sily understood. All voyages (»f e.\[)l(»ration ha- lished; yet that Russia was making (piite extensive discoveries in that region was well known in Europe, and it caused much anxiety in Spain. She was aroused to the display of great activity, aj)parently cond>ined with a pnrpo.se of discovering and taking 78 HISTORY OF AVILLAMETTK VALLKT. ])(>ss('ssioii of all the (roast not jiln'july ocrnyned l>y tlu* Miiscovitt^s. The first iii(iv«'int'nt iiiatlc Ity S])aiii was the coldiiiziiii.'' »>f Cnli- foniia. |>revioiisl\ sjtokcii of. The next was asei'iesdf explorations hv sea. .lamiary •_*.">. 1774, the covwitf Sii>///(ii;o sailed from San Bias, eoiiMiianded Ity .Iiiaii '.'erez, and piloted l>y Kstivau Martinez. IN'i'cz \va> iiistiiu-ted to |HMcerd as far north as tlh' sixtietli d«'<^'ee of latitude, and then to letnrn slowly alonir the coast, landini; at sundry aeeessihle points to take possession in the name (»f the Kiiiir. 'Pile .S' touched at San Dieiroand Monterey. lie sailed from the latter poit on tlir sisiteenth of June, and siu-hted land apiin fhirt\tw. Warned l>y the appearance of the dreaded s<-ui'\ y anionj.'' his t-rew that the voyay'e could not he prolon;^ed, Perez tui'ned aliout and coasted aloiitj to the southward. For a hundred miles he thus followed the <'oji.st, enjoyini; a lii.t;hly proHt- alde trade in furs with the natives, who came out to the vessel in i^reat canots and e.\cliann('(l sea otter and other valuaMe skins f(»i' mere 4 trill es. \ storm then di'ove the Sniiliaco seaward an( I slu did not apiin make the land tintil the ninth of Auijust, when slie anchored at tli entrance t»f a deep water Itay in latitmle 4i>" and .'50. In tl.'' direction of nomendatin-e tin- Spaniards were never at a loss, |»rovided not more (haii one name wiim re(|uired per day. \Vhene\er an ohject was discovered of sufficient impor- tance to reipiire christening', the devout Catholic turned to his IJoman ealenflar, and whatever saint was found to have heen declared hy the Church to he worthy of special lioiior upon that day, the mim»' of that camtnized mortal was hestowcd upon it. Followintr this rule I'erez discovered that the proper name of this harhoi' waM "San Iiorenz(»," and that name he entered upon his jon.iiial and chart. This harhor was afterward re-christened l»y the Kni;lish, and is ?iow kn(»wn as '• Kini; (ieoi'ire's Sound," or " Nootka Sounii'n. Perez, stopped for a few (lavs to trade with the mitives, of whose ijitel!:L:en p-nce atio light c(»m)>lexion he makes specnil Uiention, ;uid then continue< th d s«tuthward. He oliservcd Mount Olympus, in latitmle 47" and 47 . which he christened "Sunt^i Hosaliu." A few days later he .sighted KKOM CAPTAIN CARVKR TO ( AI'TAIN COOK. 79 ('}i|)e Mt'iidorliio, \vlios«' cxju't latitude lie asccrtaiiicd, and in due time cii'i'ived at Monterey, liavintr l>y his sii)»ertieial uietliod added l»nt little to ii:<'o,f land at its entrance on the south. 'IMioUi^h there was nothiiii.' recorded in the iouiiial of the voyuije, Spanish t;eoijfra|>hers ac<'e|tted this (piesvionaMe state- ment as worthy of cicdence, and (h'sirt^ and rinnored discoM-ries made l»y \arieen |»roduced; certaiidy nothinu' l»ut the phosphorescent intelh'ct of a Fr. 'iichman could have evolved such a ijfeo^raphic.Ml monstrositv. With liellins chart, the latest issued, the explorers were supplied, and it is a fact far from creditalile that Spaniard"^ had made so Ion;/ a voyaein«; aide to co cct any of its excentricities. The Sait/iimv ti\n\ Soiiora, a<'conipanied liy the San Car/o.\. sailed from San lilas, March !."». 177"), and proceedetj to Monterey. There Ayala wis transfern'd to the San Car/os. liieutemint .luati Fran- cisco de la Hode<;a y (,>midra succeeding to the connnand of tlie Sonora. The latter vessel and the Saufuii^o then sailed from Mon- terey on their vo\a}.!;e of disc(»very. On the ninth of Juiie they ancliored in an open roadstead some distance north of Cape Men- docino, calline; it Port Trinidad for the Jill-satisfyinir reason that the day nientione(l wa> dedicated in the cah-ndar to the Holy Trinity. This is the same liay of Trinidad which caused so much excitement aiMoiii;' the Li'old hunters in is.")(>. and the follow inir yiir Iie<'amethe lauding phu-e for the devot^-es of "(lold UlufT."" Having spent nine 80 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLiSY. <1jivs at Tiii)i(lat sijijht land auain till in latitnde 4S" and '2~\ aecordinir to their somewhat faulty reekoninir, beini:' almost at the enti'anee of the Straits of Fucu. The (ireek pilot had located his passageway between latitu(h's 47" and 4s" ; and it beinu' thus indicated on Hellin's chart, tlie ex- turned to the soutiiward to search foi* what was almost >lorers 1 within the h'trizun line on the north. Of coui-se they found nothing. 'I'he (»nly adventui'e worthy of note in that reLjiun, was the killinir of se\en of the So/iorti s cvrw by the Indians. 'Phi mainland near a small island in latitude 47", w s occurred on hid J was numeh captain wli<> lost a boat's crew near that •oint m ureciselv the same manner, Here lleceta Itecame alarmed at the ravaifes the dreai U^d scurvy was mmittiuir, and desired to I'eturn bef. ore nis crew: en tireh succundM'd to the 'couriie. He was )»ei>uaded to coiitiiuie tile voyaire, l»ut a few da\s later a stoi-m s«'parated the two consorts, and Ibnt'ta at once headed his vessel for Monterey. lie observwl land in latitu-cli f«tr (he latter in latitiuh- 48". lie made a ij:reat discovery on the tifteeiitii of .\ugust. 177"), l)eini> the 1; ind fi force, lie enerliaps the Kio dc Afjjuilar, or, possibly, the Sti-aits of l*'uca, foi- wiiicli he iiad lieen so dilip'utly searching. He at last abandoned the effort and saih-d again towai'd Monterey, oliserving, for the tirst time, tlie coast <»r On-gon witli sutlicieiit carefulness to entei- upon iiis journal y the Spaniavfls. Ujxni his chart Heccta eiitcrfd the I'iver he hatow a more sensible titU' upon the low point of land on the south, which he christened "('alio de Frondoso " ( Leafy ('a|>e). Maps made liy the Spaniards thereafter had in- dicated upon them an indentation in the shoi'e line at thi?' point, variously nnirk»'d " Knsenada * the least approach to the oi'i}^inal. It wjiw now they IteiLfan to appreciate the beauties of liellin's Chart, which had been })repared partly from the worth- less reports of t! -ir j»r«'«leceHsors, partly from the r('p(»rts of eipnilly superlicial Russian explorei-s. and j>artly from imaLjimition. Hn llie >i.\teenth of /VujjTUst, w hen the chart assuiM'd tlieni they were one H2 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. Iiiiiidrt'd iiiid tlilftx -five leiiifues (listaiit from the Amerioaii sluuv — iiiid it i> diltitult to uiidcistand Imw they could tlattei- tlieinselves that tht'V wt'iv fxphdiiiLT a c*>n.< line whii-h was one hundred and thivtytive leaiu^ues di-^tant - they suddenly diseoveied land both to the north and east of them. They were then above the tifty-sixth parallel, in the vieinity of a Imge snow-mantled jieak, risiuL' ahru]>tly from a headland on the coast, which they christeneij "Mount San .lacinto." This i^ the t.i' nameii '"Mount Kdirecundi "' h\ ('aj)tain ("ook. and stands nil the chief island "f Kiiiu: (leorire III.'s Archi- pcl.iLio. Siij»|»()>iuLr it to l»e a portion of the main land, tli >an- '1 aids lauded to take |>o>scs>ii»ii in the name of tlr>ir sovereign. Tl ley plauteti a <-ross. w itii a|>proj»riate ceremonies, and were luisily ciiiraifetl ill |»rocurin\ the native propri»'tors. The ci l »ss was iiprootetl in sc(»ni and those who had erected it were Lciveii to understand that a ha^t\ departure would Ke airreealile. thoiiLdi they were n(»t permitted to makt- -<» much haste that payment for the Hsh and water was neijlectt'd. Thus eiuled the tiist efToit of Spain le «*oa.st north of Califoi-nia. They tlien continued their northward joiu-m-y as f.-ir as latitude 7)S", when HodeuK decided to 1 eiriii the homeward voyaire and «'.\plore the tt» take possession of tl coast hue more thoroiii udih The\ searched carefullx foi- the Ri< de h)s Heyes as far seen in existence, since .\dmiral Font*' located his wonderful stream under the tifty-third paiallel. 'I'liey landed again on the twenty-fourth of August, in a little harlwu' on the west coast of IVllice of Wale- Islali-I, where they took pos- sessi(Ui without interference from the Indians, and namtd the j)lace " Port liiicareli." in hoimr of the X'iceroy under whose (jirections the\ were acting, and wiujse proud privilege it was to pay tin* ex- penses of the Voyage. ( )ccasi(niall\ observing the coiist south ()f tliis point, the\ beiian airain, in latitude 4")", to scrutiiii/e the ( >regon shore in -ear«'li of AguilarV liiver, and though tliey oh- served several streams of vvatei' entering the sea. they wwe tiot of siitticieiit magnitutle to indicate a large stream, such a.s Aguilar re- porte • lid, however. oli-.erve a prominent headland answering Aguilai's descri]>tioii of ("ape Blanco. Their next stopping place was iti a hay FROM CAPTAIN CAKVEP TO CAPTAIN COOK. H•^ which the Sonora entered on tlie tliird of Oetolter, and uhieli lio- detra MUjyposed was the Hun of San Francisco, lie learned later that it was a niueli smaller one lying a little fui'thci' north, and this has ever since heen known as P>ode<;a liay. These three vctyages jnstly entitled Spain to a claim to the entire coast from ('ape ]NIendocino y title of explo- ration. If that title was of any valne, it l»el(»niLred to Spain; l»ut in these modern times, possession is a far stronger title than simple discovery, and the rnited States fonnd the claim acqnired fi-om Spain liaid to dcfcn^l against Kngland's actual possession of the soil. In fact, had she deju-nded upon it at all ( )regon wouM now l>e a province of (treat [ii'itain. Accounts of these important \oyages did not reach the puhlic through the medium of the |»ress; yet the fact that the Spanijirds had made several important voyages in the Pacific, and were evidently seeking to take possession of the entire coast, soon became known in England, and created great uneasi- ness. She could not stand sui»inel\ l»v and see her ancient eneinv secure a territory which she li;id coveteut which, as yet, she had made no direct effort to rea»li from the Pacific side. This yeai-, 177(), saw Fngland invy hei' un|»leasant ex[>eriences with the confederate colonii's who had just de«'lared tliemsehcs free and independent. It is this p(dicy of colonial agu'randizement, systematically maintained through long series of years, which has made her the cent«'i' of an empire uj)on which the sun never st'ts, and in which In-r "morning drum heat follows the course of the sun in one continuous roll around the world." Parliament at once n'liewed her offer made in 1 745, of a reward of t'LM>,(Mi(t for the disctAery "f the Northwest Passage, though not limiting it to exploration iti Hudson's May. The reward was offered to any \esM'l, sailing in any direction, through any straits connecting the Atlantic with the distant Pacific, north of latitude Irl". This WHS inimicid to the husitjesH interests of the Hudson's Hay '.'ompany. and conse(|Uentl\ Wft^- picductiNt' of no greater residts 84 HJKTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. fliiin tlu' fornuT one. Tlu- Admiralty luul l>y this time become satisfied tlia*^ it whs iis«'less t<» seek for the passair*' <»n tlie Athwitie si(h% since all tlieir efforts wciv in some manner rendered al)ortive; and they ih-cided to dispatch an expedition to the Pacific to search foi' tin- passain'e on that sid<'. and t() learn, if |)ossil»le, the extent of Spanish and Russian occnpation. For this impoi'tant task the most renowned naviuator of his time was selected, Captain .Iam«'s Cook, whose recent extensive explorations in tlie Sonth Sen and Indian < >ceaii. extendinir into the Antarctic reii"^. had lieeii so thoi'(»Uirhly and intelliiicntly conducted that little was left for his successors to accomplish in the same Held. It was vitally necessary that tl»is means <>!' enterinu' tlie Pacific l»e discoxeicd if Knt,dand would jdant ct»lonies in \\\\> rei,non, I'or communication with them l)y way of the Horn or ( 'ape of (Jood Hope would lie too Ioiil;' and uncertain, 'i'he pultlic Lia/.e was centered upon Captain Cook, and durini; the lour yeais that pass<'d Itetwcen tin- departure and I'etuin of his Vessels, the <:allaiit na\iiiator ami his mission were lutt f"or<;ott<'n, e\en amid the excitiui! incidents of the conflict in .\merica and tin- Liraver poliliial complications in Eurtipe. Tlie expedition was com- posed of two vessels the Ncso/ii/ioii. a craft vviiich had just taken Cook aioiiiid the world, and a consort named the Discovery, ct>m- maiided l»y Captain Cliailes Clerke. In every particular the vess«*ls won- fitted for the ,\ork expected of them. Charts were pre- pared, emhraciiiir all the ufeoiiiaphical knowlediic of the time, except that recently jLcained l»y the Spaniardh. the details of whicli had not yet lieen rec<'i\t'd in Kiiu'land. This left a comparative Mank in the Pacific hetweeii latitudes 4.'V', the northern limit of A«iuilar's voyat;e. and .'>(')", the most southerly point on tlu' (•oast reached l>y the Kiissian exploreis. In this were iiidicate the threat ri\i were \er\ minute and paiticidar. FiU^dand was involved in war with le .\i:ierican colonies, while her old enemie-*, FratK-e and Spjiin, seemed ahoiit to add mat«'rial aid to the open encourageiiH'iit they i^ave the striiuglint; r«'l»els. It was inciimlH'nt upon her to do nothinu whatever to im-ur the op«'n liostilit\ of these warlikt nations, or to even ^ixf them a plausiltle excu.se fur declaring- a wai' wiiii-h they seemed n>ore than wiiliny; to KROM CAPTAIN CARVER TO CAPTAIN COOK. 85 ciiihark i»i. T** thus send an »'XjH'«lition into waters which Spain had for centuries looked uj)on as her <)wn special inheritance, and to explore a coast line whicli sjie had just visited and formally taken possession of, was a delicate matter, and Captain Cook was relied upon to do nitthinu to offend th«* Spaniards or antas^onize the Russians, whom he was expected to encounter on tlie coast of Alaska, lie wjus instructed to tii-st leach the coast of New AlUion, for such the Knry. And if. in his further j>i"o^ress northward, he should liieet any suhjects of any Kin'o[»ean |»i'iiice or state (i-eferrinu r<^ the Russians), upon any part of the coast whit-h he niii^ht think p-' j* • to \ isit, he was not to distlM'li them or gi\e them just cause of ofietise, liut, on the cute amomr the inhaliitants such thintrs as Would renniin a-> traces of hi- ha\ in*.' Iieen there; l>ut if he shouhl Hnd the countrit's so discovered to lie nniidial'ited, he was to *.'ike possession of them f<'r lo- -overeiun. Ii\ -etiiiiLi' up proper m.-irks and (h'scriptioiis, ,is first di<»co\eier> and jtosse-e instru«-iion> would ha\e liarred Co<»k from the whole «'oast, since Spanish evplurers had \ isit«'d and taken foi'mal possession at varii>u- point- Imt the year Ix'fore It was irenerally s\ipposed that the ocean llearne had \ cred at the mouth v»t' the Ct»ppermine River wa- identical with the I*acitic, and that as progression was made northward tlu' c(»ast wonid lie found tiendinc sharply to the east, the reirion oeciipied li\ the Russians l>eii\ir Ji >*ca of islands l>in«r much to the westward of tip- main land «tf America. Reginninii; when he first espie, ciufht days after the lieli of In- dependence Hall had I'Uiii; out to the world the udad tidiiiirs that a free people had pledijed "their lives, their fortunes jilld their sacivd honor" in the cause of lilterty. Cook sailed from IMymouth on his mission. He rounded the Cape of (Jood Hope and >«pent neai'ly a year in exploriiii^ the coast of \'an Uieman's Land, .Ne\v Zea- land, and the Friendly and Society yroiiiis of islaiids. It was not until the eii^hteentli of January, 177^, that he encountered the Hawaiian LCioup of islands, making thus one of the most impoi'tant y li( idwinds as far south as Uogue River, he saileil ii iioilherly course W(ll out to sea, and did not ilgain see land until he I'eached latitude 48". To the ]>romiiieiit headland he then hiiw lie gave the name "Cape Flattery," lu'cause of the encouraging conditi(tii of affairs. Immediately north of Cape Flattery lay the Straits of Fuca, but on his chart the passage supposed to have lieeii discovered l>y the old Greek pilot was indicateil as lying south of the foily-eighth par- KI{()M (AI'TAIN CAKVKK TtMAl'TAlN IHOK. ST allcl ; and so lie coasted southward to tiiid it, little iriiairiniiiii^ that what he soiiglit was within a few miles of him, and tiiat he was deliher- atfly tuniiiiir his l>a(k upon it. Naturally he was unsucr«'ssful in his search, anrent. 1' d •PI tossessed co|»i>ei\ H'on aiKl i»rass, and weit \h famil lar w 1 thtl le mernoc th of workiuiT them. They were »'xti'emely friendly and liartered val- ual)le furs for trinkets of any kind, |ireferi"inif metal to anythinjir The \ esse Is were coiistantK sinrounded l»v a fleet of c anoe w hose occujiants ju-id come for many miles aloni; the coast foi' the purpose of seeiuij: the white stranir«'i>* JHid tradini; with them. Here he lay nearly a month, re]»airinu' his ve-^sels and permittinnc the sea- men to recover from the ctTects of their lont:' voxaLfe. AI»out the first tif April he resumed his northward <'oiirse. In the vicinity of the Hfty-third parallel he intended to search for .\ilmiral l"'altle sttn-ies, that convey their own confutation alontj with them; nevertheless, I v\as very desirous of keepinir the American coast aUoard, mi order to dear up this point heyoiid dis|iutc."' l''iom the tiftytifth parallel, vvher<' he aiLcain saw land, he continued north, in fidl view of the coast, nliscrvinu- the peak t-alled •' San Jacinto" l>v UoilcM-a, l>ut which lie named " l'!dL;eciunli' ; iliscov eriiiLT ;u>d naminir Mount Fair- weather, and on the fourth of May reachim: an immeUM- snow peak, standiiit; near the water's edsfe, which he at once recotrnized as the Mount St. Elias discovered liy Pehriiiu. 'I'he sharp westward trend of the coast from this point led ("ook reful search for the Straits of Anian. which he to h tl >eirui there a ea hoped t«) find leadini; northward into the North Sea, the e.xistenee of which Ilearne had verified, or eastward into llmlsoirs or liattin's 8H UIHTOKY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLKT. Hiiv. Tlic Ivussiaii cliarts sIiowimI this to Im- tlu- «'iiil of tin- Amcri- CiU I coutiiit'iit, all to tile westward ItciiiL' a vast sea of islaixis; roll- s('(|Ut'ntly ln' liad t^ood reasons for ('.\[)(rtiiitf to find a |tassai;(' into tlic North Sea. lie Ix'gan a diliijent search, ex])loi-in«; carefully all hays )uid inlets aloiiir the coast. Prince William's Sound and Cook's Inlet received special attention, and on his nia|i are very accinately laid down. The latter he at tirst siijiposed to l»e a river, and called it '"Cook's River," hut the erroi" was soon discov- ered. I'nsuccessful in tindinassaire in either of these favoralile localities, he ct)ntinued westward, and soon found the coast trentliny; toward the southwest. Ilis careful explorations con- vinced him that this region was liy no means a sea of islands, hut that the American I'ontinent "exteinled much further to the west than, from the modern most reputahle chai'ts, he had i-eason to expect," and that the Russians had heen extremely suj)erlicial in their exploiations. lie determined to ahandon his jncsent effort and to follow the coast line to its termination, and then to ent«r Bt Urine's Straits. On the nineteeenth (»f June he fell in with the SclunMaifim Islands, where hv saw the Hrst tokt-ns of Russian pi-es- ence in Miat regit)n. One of the many natives who swarmed ahout the vessel possessed a piei'e of [)apt i', upon which was writiuLj which he conceiv«'d to Im- in the Russian laniruaaulovski, the chief settlement of Kamtcliatka. The Kiissian otHcials received the visitors with i^ieat courtesy, beiiii; ^dad of an opjiortunity to learn of the geo<;raphii'al discoveries the Knulish- men had made. The voyajre was then resumed, but iuMiorance of the clinuitic pecidiarities of the Arctic region had led him to under- take the passai^e too early in the S|)rini;. The couse' usen had almost become forgotten in the excitement of current events, and the return of the vessels wdth in- telligence of the death of the two senior commanders and of the geographical discoveries which had V)ee)i made, was an luiexpected surprise. Until the complications of war were removed, England had neither time nor iiclination to attempt further discoveries or plant new colonies, and so the Lords of Admiralty pigeon-holed the official I'ecord of the vo}'age, to })e pid)lLshed after the conclusion of peace. They could not seal the lips of the seamen, \vho scattered about the story of their adventures, and the w^onderful ])rofits to be gained in l)uying furs for nothing from the Indians on tlie American side of the Pacific, and selling them for a great deal to the (Chinese on the Asiatic side. One of these seamen, John Led yard, an Amer- ican, endeavored to influence American and French caj)italists in a fur enterprise, l)ut unsuccessfully. He then conceived the idea of traveling around the world by way of Kussia, Siberia, the Pacific and America. Having secured a passport- from the Empress of Russia, he traveled as far as Irkutsk, when he was arrested, con- ducted to the Polish frontier and released upon the condition that he never again enter the empire. This arbitrary act is ascribed to the influence of the Russian fur monopoly, which did not relish the idea of foreigners prying into their business. While Cook's vessels were lying at Hawaii, and only nine days before the famous commander was killed, another Spanish expedi- FROM CAPTAIN CARVKK TO CAPTAIN COOK. 91 tion sailed on a voyage of discovery in the North Pacific. This was not caused by Cook's movements, for the Spanish authorities were unaware of his presence in the Pacific, but was the result of the government's desii-e to examli.: the northern regions more criti- cally than Bodega and Heceta had done. After three years of preparation the Princess and Favorita sailed — the former com- manded by Ignacio Arteaga and the latter by Bodega and Maurelle. The route of the vessels was much the same as that traversed by Hodega and Cook, and nothing of importance was noticed which had not been seen by those explorers. When they observed the coast-line beyond Mount St. Elias to trend westward, they began searching for the Straits of Anian, as had Cook the year before, but were l)y no means as thorough as the English navigator had been. Arteaga lacked the" quality of perseverance under disappointment and hardships which is so necessary to the successful explorer, and discouraged by his want of success, and fiightened l)y the appear- ance of scurvy symptoms among his crew, ordered the vessels }>ack to San Bias. Instead of being reprimanded for the superficial nature of his ex[)lorations, his faulty observations and useless charts, he and his associates were rewarded by promotion. Spain was now well satisfied of the extent and value of the coast to the north, but being involved in war was compelled to postpone any effort at coloniza- tion until her foreign complications were at an end. CHAPTER VII. SPAIN'S SUPREMACY IN THE PACIFIC OVERTHROWN. The Ru man- American Trading Company — France sends La Perouse to the Pacific — James Ilanna i/uckes the First Voyage in the Fur Trade from England. — England'' s Short-sighted Policy of Granting Monopoly Charters — The East India Company and South Sea Com.- pany — Their Conflicting Interests Leads to the Organization of the King George's Sound Company — Belief that North America above Latitude ^9° was an Archipelago of Huge Islands — First Voyage of Captain Meares — His Terrible "Winter on the Alaskan Coast — Cap- tain Barclay Discovers the Straits of Fuca — Meares Engages in the Fur Trade under the Portuguese Flag — He Builds the Schooner '•'■Northwest America " at Nootka Sou?id Explores the Straits of Fuca — His Unsuccessful Search for the liio de San Itoque — Decep- tion Bay and Cape Disappointment — The United, States Enters the Contest for Control of the Pacific Coast — The '•'■Columbia Rediviva''' and '■'■Lady Washington " — The Latter Attacked, by Indians, and the Former Suj^plies Spain with an Opportunity to Promulgate her Doc- trine of Exclusive Rights in the Pacific Martines sent to Explore the Coast and Investigate the Russians — His Report of Russian Operations Causes Spain to Send a Remonstrance to the Empress — Martinez Fortifies Nootka and Takes Possession in the Nante of the King of Spain — He Seizes the ^'Iphigenia " and '■'■Northwest Ameri- ca " — Colnett and Iliidson arrive in the '■'•Argonaut " and '•'■Princess Royal'''' — Are made Prisoner's by Martinez and sent to Mexico — The Prisoners Released and Vessels Restored — Controversy between England and Spain Terminated by the Nootka Convention — Stipu- lations of the Treaty Displease both Parties. THE first to avail theniselv^es of the discoveries made by Cook were the Russians They were not embroiled in war with any nation contending for supremacy in America, nor with any other SPAIN 8 HUPREMACy IN THE PACIFIC OVERTHROWN. 93 power which could attack their Pacific possession.s. Cook's voyage opened their eyes to the nature and value of the fur regions, and they resolved to enter deeply into that ^vhich they had heen simply skimming for forty years. The Kussian- American Trading Com- pany was organized in 17H1. Two years later three vessels were sent from Petropaulovski, to establish stations on the islands and main land as far east as Prince A\'illiani's Sound. Three years were consumed in this work. The hold Russia then took u[)on Ahiska was not rela.Ked until that I'egion was pui'chased by the United States nearly a century later (in ISOT) foi- S7,20(),()(»(>. The first official \-oyage made by the contending nations, after the Treaty of (rhent Avas signed, was sent out by France, In the winter of 17M4-5 Cook's journal was published, and though the "ya.rns" of his sailors had been freely circulated, this was a reve- lation tt» the peo])le, and caused much eagerness to be displayed to take advantage of the golden opportunity tiierein pointed out. The French government immediately dispatched a skillful and scientific navigator, named La Perouse, with instructit»ns to "explore the parts of the northwestern coast of America wliich had not l>een examined by Cook, and of which the Kussian accounts gave no idea, in order to obtain information respecting the fur trade, and also to learn wliether, in those unknown })arts, some I'iver or intei'nal sea might not be found commimicating with Hudson's Bay, or Baffin's Bay." La Permpetition prevented the securing of a good cargo; also, that the Chinese market was glutted with this avalanche of furs. There was no profit in the business that year. England adopted an extremely short-sighted policy in her treatment of the Pacific question, and surrendered her claims into the hands of private monopolies. A century before, eager to disct)ver the long-st»ught Northwest Passage, she chartered the Hudson's Bay Company, giaiiting it almost royal power, and conferring upon it absolute dominion in that vast region whose waters fall into Hudson's Bay. Two centuries lui\e gone l»y and it is still a wilderness. In her anxiety to eonuuand the conunerce of the Pacific, and plant her foot on the western slun-e of America, she again committtil the fatal erroi' of delegating lier powers to private and selfish monoj)(»lies. At that time the East India Company was already finnly esial»lishee to embark in the fur trade and exjtlore the unknoAvn mysteries of the grent South Sea, were debarred from so doing. No English ships could pass aroimd Cape Horn save those of the South Sea Com[)any, \vhile the ensign of the powerful East India Company must fly at the mastdiead of every British vessel that doublnl the Cape of Good IIo2)e. It wjis of course the supposition that these two corporations, being rich and powerful, wt)uld at once end>ark in the fur trade on an extensive scale, and, as the rei)resentatives of the British crown, woidd lay k« broad and deej) a foundation for English power on the American Coast and the Islands of the Pacific, as one of them had already done in the land of the Brah- mins. Such was not the case, owing primarily to the coiiflieting SPAIN S SUPKKMACY IN THK PACIFIC (tVKKTHKOWX. 95 interests of the two compauies. The great fur market Mas China, l)ut fi'om the ports of that coni])any the shi[)s of the South Sea Company were debarred l»y tlie exchisive trade ))rivileges of the rival association. Nor was tlie East India Company more happily situated; ^^^th complete control of England's commerce in Asiatic ports, it was excluded frt»m the fur-producing coast of America. One controlled the st)urce of su])ply and the other the market, and neither could accomplish anything. The chasm between the rival companies was bridged by the organization of a third one — the King (xeorge's Sound Company. This association was formed iri ITS,"), and was granted special permits from both monojiolies, eiialtling it to embark in the Pacific fur trade under favorable auspices, Two vessels were dispatched by this company, the King George and Queen Charlotte, connnauded l)y C/aptains Portlock ami Dixon, They traded two years without paying expenses, the Cliinese nuu-ket havuig been flooded by this sudden shoAver of fur. Two (,)ther \essels sent the next year by the same company, and which reached Nootka in ITsT, prior to the retmii of Portlock and Dixon to Enghmd, were e(|ually unsuccessful, and the South Sea Company suddenly colla[)sed. Shares in the company, which it had fornudly taken fortunes to j)urchase, were thrown into the street, and the projectors of the enterprise )>arely escaped the rude clutches of a mob. The South Sea Bid»ble was completely Inirsted. These tradei's, in passing uj) and down the coast, learned what \a\ Perouse had discovered two years before — that all points north of Nootka yet vi> .'d by traders and ex[)lorei's, were but islands and not portions of the main land. The former llussian idea of the iegi(m occupied by them was revived, and extended to embrace the whole northern [)oi'tion of America. It was conceived that not a continent, but an immense archij)elago of islands occupiei that re- gion, and that through the channels separatnig them it wa« possible to reach the Atlantic. This idea was also suj)ported twt) years later by Captain Meares, who assigned as one of his rensons for hold- ing the belief, that "the chainiels of this archipelago were found to be \sv}i^ and capacious, with neai- two hundred fathoms deep of water, and huge promontories stretching tmt into the sea, where whales and sea-«ttters were seen in incredible abimdance. In some of these channels there are islands of ice, wdiich we may venture to 96 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLKT. isiiy could uevi'i- have foimeil on the western side of America, which posses.se.s a uiihl and xutnlerate cluuate; so that their existence can not l)e reconcileil ti> any other idea, than that they received theli* formation in the ea-tern seas, and have been drifted l>y the tides and currents throuirh the i>assage for whose existence we ai'e con- tending." He was not aware that the Ahi-ska ghiciei-s were con- stantly dropidng frozen i^fFerings into the sea. A few yeai-s hiter Ca])tain Vancouver denn»nstrated the fallacy of this theoiy, and gave us the tiiNt correct iany, either having made some connnercial arrangement with the South Sea Comi>any, or purposely infringing upon the chartereil rights of the rival organization, dis- patched two small vessels to the American Coast for fin's. They met with sutticient success to enconrage the ct>mpany to engage in the ])Usiness on a larger scale; consetpieutly, two vessels were titteweil the Japan Ciment nutii she reachetl the Aleutian Islands, and then coasting .along eastward arrived at Pidnce William's Si>und. Thus far wji-s she traced by her consort, biit be- yond that j)oint her movements never were known, nor wa.s she ever heard from again. She wa« probaldy swamped in mid oeean, for ha(.l she l>een wTecked on the cojist some traces of her would have been disco veretl by the natives and reported to the traders. The Nootka followKl the same general course, and came to anchor in Prince William's Sound about theiii-st of October, Captain Mearw* designing to spend the winter in that port and resiuue the voyage along the coast in the spring. Unacquainteti with the climatic con- ditions, he had selecteil a j>lace sufficiently removed fi-om the path of the Japan Cm'rent and its branches to be practically Ijeyond it* influemies, and thus a place where all the rigors of an Arctic winter prevailed. During Octf)l>er, November and even December, the climate way generally plea.sant and always endiu'able, but there sud- denly came a change. All the chilling winds of the Borean cave SPAIN S SUPREMACY IN THE PACIFIC OVEKTHKOWN. 97 were unchained, and howled about the vessel, which was soon hf»und in icy fetters and buried beneath the drifting sno^v. The migratory Indians disappeared in search of a more agreeable al»ode, and ^vere ([uickly followed by all animal and aquatic life. The sun hid its face, save for a few moments at midday, when it seemed to raise its head above the horizon to cast a derisive glance U))on the sufferers, and then quickly disappeared, Meares' journal says: " Tremendout< mountains forl)a(le almost a sight oi the sky, and cast their noctur- nal shadows over the ship in the midst of day." Dejtrived of proper focHil and exercise, the imprisoned crew were quickly attacked with scurvy, whose horrible ravages it was impossible to check. Twenty- three died during the four months of their imprisoiuiient, while the othei*s were rendered so feeble as to l>e unfit to perform duty. At hist, in May, tiie ice released the vessel from its confining grasp; animals and birds returned, the natives again appeaivd, and won to health and stren£fth by fi-esh food and the invitricti«»n placetl upon British subjects by the chaitei-s Parliament had granted the two great monopolies, he entered into a ct»nunercial arrangement with Juan Cavallo, a Portuguese merchant of Macao, a jnjrt near Canton belonsiinff to the croAni of Portuiral. Two vessels were fitted out and commissioned l>y the Portuguese Governor of Macao, nominally belonging to Senor Cavallo, and having Pt»rtuguese cap- tains named in their shipping papei-s. Nominally. Meares went in the ship Felice Advenhirer an supercargo. tht»ugh actually in com- mand; and William Douglas occu})ied the same jiosition in the Iphigenia Niibiana. A double pui-j^ose wjis sene*l by tha-i cloth- ing the enterprise with Portuguese apparel, as sj)eeial privileges were enjoyed by the sul)jects of that nation in the jjorts of China. Just what interest Cavallo and the two n«»minal cajitain** had in the enterprise is uncertain ; for Meares, a-* long as hLs interest* lay in that dii'ectioii, asserted that tlie undertaking was purely a Poitugiiese one, but when circumstances placed the balance of interest on the other side, as strenuously asserted that he alone was the owner and manager of the enterprise. The Iphigenia saUed for Cook's Inlet, where she was to begin operations, and trade sonthward along the coast until she reached Nootka Sound and united with her consort. The Felice headed for Nootka direct, where she arrived early in the spring of 1788. Immediately upon reaching that general rendez- vous of the fur trade, Meares began the coiLstmction of a small schooner for the pur[)Ose of coasting along the shore to trade with the Indians. He secured from Ma([uiuna, the chief, ijemussion to erect a small house to shelter his men while at work upon the craft, the consideration for this privilege being a brace of pistols and the house and contents Avhen he should finally de|)art from that re^on. Leaving his builders at work, the house having V«een erected and encompassed by a rampart of eaith, fi'om which frowned the rusted SPAIN S SUPREMACY IN TIIK PACIFIC OVEKTIIKOVVN. !>•.> nioutli of a diminutive cannon, Meares sailed down the coast in search of the passage reported by Barclay as havini; been seen by him the year before. June 29, 1788, he observed a broad inlet in latitude 48" 39'. Thoueratittn and seemed not to be intimidated by either the noise or deadly effect of the guns. Their weapons were clul>s, arrows, stone bludgeons, spears and slings, all of which they handled Avitli great skill. So fierce was their onslaught and so effectively did they use tlieir weapons that only to the protection afforded the seamen by the boat's awning was due theii* escape with their lives. Having found Fuca's Strait, or one which he believed to be the passage spoken of by Lock, he sailed soutlnvard in search of the Rio de San Roque of the S2)aiiiard Heceta. On the sixth of July he discovered a promontory which he believed to be the one Heceta had named " Cabo de San Roque." He describes his subsecpient movements as follows: After we had rounded the promontory a hirge bay, as we had imagined, opened to our view, that bore a very promising appearance, and into it we steered with every encouraging expectation. The higli land that forme that they were accused of co-operating with them against the English. The facts are that they Avere inactive, though not entirely disinterei-ted spectators, since it naturally pleased them to set^ theii" rivals so summarily disposed of: and it is not impossible that they (^cca*iionally dropped a hint into the com- mandant's ear. Captain Keudrick I'emained on the coast till fall, collectin": a larsje cargo of furs, and then sailed for Boston by the way of China. It is claimed by some historians that before leaving he sailed clear aroiuid Vancouver Island, and Meares' chart Wars an indication of the route pursued. This chart is of itself evidence that the maker of it was ignorant of the nature of the inland chau- nel, and the probabilities are that Meares misunderstood Kendrick's account of the movements of the Lady IVas/ujigton while under the command of Captain (irray, and confusing them \nth Kendricks assertion that there was a channel back of Nootka, a j)iece of infor- mation gleaned fi'om the Indians, supposed that sucli a voyage had been made. Although it is possible that he did circumnavigate the island, yet it seems improbable, and Kendrick never laid claim to such distinction in after years. If he did, then an American vessel was the fiivt to enter the Straits of Fuca and explore that wonder- ful inland sea, the Gulf of Georgia; if not, then the honor lielongs to Spain, as will be shown later on. So much for the events at Nootka ; but there was a gi-eater field of action on which the.se differences were decided — Europe. The Viceroy of New Spain made haste to notif}^ the home government of the important event.* which had happened in the far-off Pacific. It took a long time for news to travel in those days, when there were no telegraphs and no regular routes of intelligence between these distant shores and Europe; consequently Spain, which was Spain's supremacy tn the pacific overthrown. 109 in the most intimate connection with the Pacific Coast, received the news long before it readied England. The first intelligence received by the British Cabinet ^\•HS an arrogant and very undi])lomatic note from Spain, on the tenth of Fel)ruary, 1790, notifpng the King that certain of his subjects had been trespassing npftn the Pacific possessions of Spain, and that in eonse(|uence of this the ship Ar- gonaut had been seized as a ]>rize and her crew made prisoners. The note closed with an assertion of that exclusive i-ight of Pacific trafllc which Spain had proclaimed for a century, and the enforce- ment of which had led to the present complications; in pursuance of that idea the punishment of the offenders was demanded, and an earnest protest made against the King j)ermitting any of his subjects to make settlements, or engage in fishing, or trade with the natives on the American Coast of the Pacific. To such haughty language the Kum oi Ensjland was entiivly uuaccustometl. Great Britain never had even constructively admitted any of the exclusive privi- leges claimed V)v Spain, and she was not now likely to tamely sub- mit to them when they were so aiTogantl}' promidgated in justifica- tion of an outrage cttmmitted upon her subjects. The response was prompt and characteristic of tliat nation, whose vigilant guardian- ship of her citizens extends to the remotest corners of the earth. The (/ourt of Madrid was notified that since it was evident fi'om the Spanish protest that English subjects had been imprisoned and their property confiscated, full reparation must be made and satis- faction for the insult given, before the merits of the controversy would be consideretl at all. Spain, England and France were just begiiming to recuperate fi'om the effect of the struggles in which they had been engaged, and each of them was anxious to avoid further hostilities; yet the dignity of England required her to take a bold stand in defense of her subjects. The belligerent tone of her response set Spain at once to preparing for war, to avoid which she modified her demands considerably, notifying His Majesty that the restoration had ab'eady been made and the matter would be allowed to drop, if he would promise in future to keep his subiects away from the Spanish possessions. This was the status of affairs in April, when Meares arrived from ('hina. When the Columbia reached Canton, in the fall of 1789, with intelligence of the Nootka proceedings, Meares armed himself no inSTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. with documents ami depositions and embarked for London, to lay liis grievances before the King. On the thirtieth of May he addresse*! a memorial to his sovereign, detailing the affair from his standpoint, and though it was full of misrepresentations, as has since been con- clusively shown, it was adopted sis the correct version by the gov- ernment. From this rep-rt it seemed that three vessels had lieen seized, instead of one, and that Englishmen had taken possession of Nootka lu'fore the S[>aniards, since Meares declared that the A'lcr/^- zocst America wa-^ an Knglish vessel, and that when he built her he had established a permanent settlement on land purchased from the Nootka Chief, Macpiinna. He did not inform the King that the little schooner had never flauntetl any flag but that of Poi-tugal, and that when the vessel was finished the building in which the work- men had lived was turnetl ovei' to IMaijuinna in payment for the privilege of temp«»rarv «)ccupation of the land, as had ]>een agreed upon in tlie beginning. England, on the fifth of May, sent a reply to the second note fi-om Spain, asserting that she was not preparetl to admit the exclusive pri\'ileges claimed by Spain, but that she was prepared to protect her subjects, and ^vould not consider the ^lues- tion at all until proj^er satisfaction had been given. On the six- teenth of ^lay, England made a formal demand upon Spain for restitution of the captured vessels, indenmity for losses sustained (estimated l>y Meares at :^(;58,433), and fidl rfcknowleilgement of the right of English subjects to tratle in the Pacific, and to establish settlements at any i>oints not already occupied by Spain. On the twenty-fifth the whole correspondence was laid by the King ]>efore Parliament, which had Vtefore been ignorant of it, and he was wamdy applauded for his conduct and assured of support. Spain's position was an exceedingly humiliating one. Even in her decline she had maintained the haughty spirit and arrogant assumption of suj^eriority and exclusive rights which had fii-st }>een asserted by those j>otent mouarehs, Charles and Philip, Init which now, vvith her fast waning ]X)wer, she was not able to supix»rt by force of arms. England's vigorous preparations for war seriously alarmed her. She had too many improtected colonies, dejjendencies from Avhich she deriveiy not jnstly hers, that the vessels had already been restored, and that she was willing to jiay any damages whieh miffht l»e assessed atjainst her ]>\ arbitrators to whom the esise should be sulnuitted. England was proud and overl)earing, and putting aside ecjuity, acted thn night >ut as her interests seemed to indicate, conscious of her superior j)ower. Slie a9send»led the greatest armament tlie nati«jn had ever prepared, and was ready at a (hiy's notice to make a descent up<»n the Spanisli settlements in Am«M"ica. She even formed an alliance with Sweden and the Netherlands, in anticipation of the co-operation of Fi'ance and Spain against lier. It was a well-known fact that there existed a compact of mutual defense between the nionarchs of France and Spain, both meml»ers of the Hourl)on family, anre largely increased. It was noAV England's turn to come dowi, from her high liorse. She saw that France would be drawn into the war, and finding her new allies unreliable and that she could not well afford the enormous expense of a war, the prepara- tit»us for which had already depleted her treasury, she adopted a more conciliatory tone, and her plenipotentiary sulmiitted a propo- sition .v'hich ^vas accepted l)y the representative of Spain. This was signed on the twenty-eiglith of Octol>er, 1790, and is known as the " Nootka Convention." By this treaty it was stii)ulated tliat all buildings and tracts of land on the northwest coast of America of which Spanish officers hail dispossessed any British subjects, should Ije restored; that just 112 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLZT. reparation should be made by both parties to the agreement for any acts of violence committed by the subjects of either of them upon the subjects of the other; that any property seizetl should Ije re- stored or compensated ft>r; that subjects of Great Britain should not approach \\'ithin ten leagues of any part of the c«»a.>lora- tions, the most complete and satisfactory ever acc(»niplished by them, one French, nine English and seven American vessels weiv also in Pacific waters. As their objects were j>urely conunercial, little of iniportaice was accomidished by any of them in the line of new discoveries, though each added something tt» the increasing knowl- edge of the coast. N<^ troul)le occuiTed ]>etw»'en them and the Spanish forces at Nootka. The Viceroy Itevilla-liigedo stated {/n/orme, iji): "Althou'di various craft of England and the American Colonies frecpiented the adjacent cojists and ))orts, some of them entering Nootka, nothing occurre always respected by them, and provided with all that was neetle«l by the other San Bias vessels, which brought at the same time the supplies for the ])resid- ios and missions of Alta California.'" Am«>ng these trading vessels was the Lady Washington^ which had Ik^.u transformed i' ... .. brig in China, in doing which Captain Kendrick, who was an v-asy-going. 116 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY. pi'ocrastiiijiting indivulual, had lost a sejisoii's trade. This year he "Ns-as fairly ssiiceessful in ol)taining furs, and also in securing the piir- eliase of a large tract of land from Chiefs Matjuinna and Wicana- nish, for which he received written deeds, duly signed by the grant- ors with a cross. Copies of these deeds, which included practically the whole of Vancouver Island exce})t that already claimed by the Sj)aniards, were forwarded to Thonuis Jefferson, Secr^^Liry of State, and filed in the [»ul>lic ai-cliives. The other American vessel of note was tlie Cohnnbia Rediviva^ which was again sent to the Pacific in the fall of 1 TOO. arriving at the harbor of Clayo([Uot, on Vancouver Island, just nortli of the Straits of Fuca, in June, 1791. She was still under tlie connnand of Captain Robert Gray, her first officer being Ilohei't Haswell, \\ iiose diary of the voyage, sis well as of the ])revious one, at Avhich time he was second niace of the Lady Wash- ington^ is one of tlie best and most reliable sources of information in regard to the events of those voyages and the complications at Nootka. Gray soon sailed for the Queen Charlotte Islands and engaged in trade with the natives for several months, exjdoring many inlets and channels. In latitude 54° 38', he entered a [)assage and sailed northeastward a distance of t)ne hundred miles without finding an end. lie then retiu'ued to the sea, supposing he had discovered the Ilio de los Reyes of Admiral Fonte. He named one portion of it "Massacre Cove," because of the uuu'der of second mate Caswell and two seamen by the natives. This su])posed pas- sage was Portland Inlet, through which runs the boundary sej)arat- ing British Cohunhia tVom Alaska. Not having collected a sufii- cient (pnuitity of furs, owing to the number of vessels trading on the coast, dray decided to sj)end the whiter at Clayo(|Uot. lie accordingly anchored the Columbia in that harbor, built a house, mounted cannon upon it, and then began the construction of a small schoonei", the frame of which he had brought, from Boston. This place he called " Fort Defiance." Kendrick had, a few weeks l)e- fore, been engaged in repairing the Lady Washington^ at a point in the same harboi* which he had christened " Fort Washington," but had departed for China soon aftei- Gray^s ariival. The year 1792 was an imjiortant (me in the history of the North- Avest Coast. More discoveries were made and more important explorations carried on than in any year before or since. Spain, ITOKT MOrr^D AND COLUMBIA KIVKR OrscJOVERKD. 117 England and the United States by sea, and a representative of the great Northwest Company l)y land, threw a flood of light upon the dark geography of the Coast. At least twenty -eight vessels visited this region, the majority of them to engage in the fur trade, repre- senting France, Spain, Portugal, England and the United States. I*assing by the majority of these without further mention, let us turn our attention to those ^vhich made valuable discoveries. These were the Columbia^ under ('aptain Gi'ay, tA\'o vessels under Captain Vancouver, and a small Spanish fleet. Early in the si)ritig of 1792, the Mexican Viceroy, not satisfied with the great discoveries made by Quimper, Elisa, Malaspina and Hustamante, made a last effort to determine the existence of the Northwest Passage and the desiral)ility of contending further for the possession of Nootka. If there existed a navigable passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, then a station in that region would l)e invaluable to the interests of Spain; but if the continent was c(mtinuous, so that vessels muht always entei* the Pacific from the south, then an estal)lishment in such a high hititude would not l)e sufiiciently valuable to render a contest foi* its ])ossession advisalde. He, therefore, dispatched a vessel to search for the Rio de los Reyes in latitude 5;V'; two others to explore more fully the Straits of Fuca, and fiscertain the exact nature of those many inland channels of the existence of whicii simply the previous ex[)lorers had reported; and a fourth to seek a desirable ^^cation along the coast of the main land south of the Straits of Fuca, where a station might be esta1)lished in case the settlement at Nootka had to be aliandoned and it was deemed necessary to have one in this region. At tile same time Bodega y Quadra, who had been appointed commissiimer to carry out the stipulations of the Treaty of N(H)tka, proceeded to that port to await the arrival of the T'(^!i)resentative of Great Britain. Thc; first of these was the Araiizazii, connuanded by Lieutenant Jacinto Caamaiio, who minutely examined the Queen Chai'lotte Islands, sailed through the passage between them and the main land (enter- ing by Dixon Channel, which he called " Entrada de Pere;^," in honor of the .)riginal discoverer^ and made a comparatively accu- rate map of that region. The expedition to the Straits of Fuca consisted of the schooners Suiil ami Mexicana, connuanded by offi- cers detailed from Malaspina's expedition, and supplied l>y him with lis IIISTOKY (»K W'll.LAMKTTK VAI.i.KY. sc'it'iitiHc* iiistruiiK^iits. Tlicy wciv i-onmiiiiKled l)y Dionisio Galiano {ind Cayctaiio Valdcz, and arrived at Nootka on the twelfth of May, leaving that port for tlieir field of action on the fourth of June. The fourth vessel was the Princesa. In this ship Lieutenant Sal- vador Fidalji'o sailed from San Hhis on the twenty-thii'd of March, and ai'rived at Port Nunez Gaona (Neah Hay) just within the en- trance to the Straits of Fuca, where he erected huildings and forti- t'cations. In Septend)er, having received orders from Quadra to al)andon this post, he removed everything to Nootka. Other Span- ish veHsels passed up and down between Nootka and Montere}% or San Bias, but their movements we'j immaterial. The commissioner a])pointed on the pai't of England to carry into effect certain provisions of the Nootka Treat}', referring to the restoration of property at that port, was Captain (xeorge Vancouver, of the Royal Navy. The Admiralty took occasion to make his voyage one of extended discovery, directing his attention es|»ecially to the clearing up of geogra])hical conundrums on the coast, par- ticularly that of a rivei or any other iutor-oceanic passage. Special attention was to be directed to the "supposed Strait of Juar de Fuca, said to I>e situated between the forty-eighth and forty-nnith degrees of north latitude, and to lead to an opening through ^vhich the sloop Washington is reported to have passed in 17H9, and to have come out again at the northward of Nootka." This voyage of the Washington, as has been already stated, was never made; Meares, who had cari'iiHi the report to England, having confused Captain Kendrick's a-count of the movements of that vessel with geographical' statements of the Indians. Vancouver commanded the sloop of wai' Discover')', and accompanied by the armed tender Chatham, under Lieutenant AV. R. Broughton, sailed in March, 1791. It is neeiUess to follow his movements for the first year, as they do \\i>i concern the purposes of this volume; it is sufficient to say that after a year of exploration in otiier regions, he arrived off the coast of California in April, 1792, in the vicinity of Cape Mendocino. Here he began a most careful examination of the coast, strict watch being kept for signs of harbors and navigable rivers, espec iaily at first of the river reportetl above the forty-third pai'allel V)y Martin de Aguilar in 1()08. A point in latitude 42° 52' was at IMCiKT SOI'M) AND OOLUMBtA lUVKH DISCOA'KRKl). 111> first conceived to be the Cape Blanco of tlie Sjjaniards, l>ut nince it was composed of dark, craggy rocks, instead of lieing white, Van- couver entered it on his chart as " Cape Orford." A little further on, in latitude 415° 23', he observed a cape with white cliffs, which he believed to be the true Blanco, but as he also considered it the one Captain Cook had called " Cape Gregory," he entered the latter name on liis chart. For some distance he ranged along the shore within a league, looking carefidly for Aguilar's River, but obsei'ved no stream ha\'iiig any such volume of water as was ascribed to the one reported by the Spaniard, and, indeed, saw none that offered the least indication of being navigable for ships. The next point of special interest to ]>e examined was that in the vicinity of lati- tude 4(3°, where was locatad the place called " Ensenada de Heceta," or "Rio de San Ro(pie," on his Spanish charts, and "Deception Bay " (m the English ones. On the twenty -seventh of April he recorded in his journal: Noon broufifht US' up with a conspicuous point of land composed of a cluster of lunnniocks, moderately high and i)r<)jecting into the sea. On the south side of this promontory was the api)earance of an inlet, or small river, the land not indicating it to be of any great extent, nor did it seem to he accessible to vessels of our burthen, as the breakers extended from the above point two or three miles into the ocean, until they joined tliose on the beach nearly four leagues further south. On refer- ence to Mr. Meares' description of the coast south of this promontory, I was at first Induced to believe it was (..'ape Shoalwater, liut on ascertaining its latitude, I pre- sumed it to be wlint he calls Cape Disappointment; anrl the opening to the south of •it Deception Bay. This cape was found to be in latitude 46° 1!)', and longitude 23(i° <)'. [He reckoned east from (Ireenwich.] The sea now changed frt>m its natural to river-coloured wat}' an entry in his journal made upon reaching Cape Flattery, tlnit there — Was not the least apjjearance of a safe or secure harbour, either in that hititude, or from it soutliward to Cape Mendocino ; notwithstanding tliat, in that space, geogra- pliers had thouglit it expedient to furnisli many. * * * So minutely had this extensive coast been insjjected, that the surf had been constantly seen to break upon its shores from the mast-head ; and it was but in a few small intervals only, where our distance precluded its being visible from the deck. Whenever the weather prevented our making free with the sliore, or on our hauling oft' for the night, the return of line weather and of daylight uuiforndy brought us, if not *;o the identical spot we had departed from, at lea«t within a few miles of it, and never beyond the northern limits of the coast which we had previously seen. An examination so directed, and circumstanceH Imppily concurring to permit its l)eing so executed, afTorded the most comi)lete opportunity of determining its various turnings and windings. * * * It nmst be considered as a very singular circumstance that, in so great an extent of sea coast, we should not until now [He had entered the Straits of Fuca] have seen the appearance of any opening in its shores which presented siny certain prospect of affording shelter; the whole coast forming one IMTftKT SOUPfD AND COLITMIUA RIVEU DISCOVERED. li>l compact, Holid and nearly straight barrier against the sea. The river Mr. Gray mentioned should, from the latitude he assigned it, have existence in the bay, south of Cape Disappointment. This we passed on the forenoon of the twenty-seventh ; and, as I then observed, if any inlet or river should be found, it must be a very in- tricate one, and inaccessible to vessels of our burthen, owing to the reefs and broken water which then appeared in its neighborhood. Mr. Gray stated that he had been several days attempting to enter it, which at length he had been unable to ett'ect, in consequence of a very strong outset. This is a phenomenon difficult to account for [Gray accounted for it easily enough by the theory that the outset was the discharg- ing of an unusually large river, a conclusion Vancouver would not admit because he had been there and had not seen itj, as, in most cases where there are outsets of such strength on a sea coast, there are corresponding tides setting in. Be that, however, as it may, I was thoroughly convinced, as were also most persons of observation on board, that we c«)uld not possibly have passed any safe navigat)le opening, harbour, or place of security for shipping on this coast, from Cape Mendocino to the Prom- ontory of Classett (Cai)e Flattery) ; nor had we any reason to alter our opinions. The coast has since l)een found much less barren of harbors tlian this distinguished navigator supposed, though, with the single e.xception of the Columbia, there are none affording entrance to large vessels Avithout first undergoing improvement. Lea\'ing Cap- tain Vancouver in the Straits of Fuca, let us follow the movements of the American vessel. The Columbia, as has been stated, wintered at Foi't Defiance in the harl)or of Clayo(|Uot, her crew being l)usily employed in con- structing a small sloop, which was launched in February and chris- tened the Adventure. This was the second vessel constructed efore been known as " Cab«» de San Rocpie"" and "P«»int Disa])j)ointment;" and upon the low j^^int on the south, fonnerly called " Cape Frondoso," he bestt>weil the name '' Point Adams." Three days later he ascended the strejmi fifteen miles further, an«l havinij ffotten into shoal water bv reason of miss- ing the channel, he dropped down again, and anchoretl nearer the mouth. The inhabitants of the Chinook village <»n the noith bank were very frieiidly. and from them Gray ol)tained a large «[uantity of furs. It was not until the twentieth that the ]>ar was smooth enough to jtermit the Cohimhia to cross out, but on that n a rock in the inland passage just above lati- tude Si", and was considerably damaged. She succeette Island, and both vessels returned to Nootka, where Gray found Captain Vancouver and gave him a memorandum of his discovery of the r ^lum])ia River. He then sailed for home In' way of Sandwich i ove the Gulf of Gei^rj^ia he called "Johnstone's Strait," after one of his lieutenants, and tlie names now l>orne by the most important objects in that region were also best«»wed by him, such as " Burrard Canal," "Bute Canal," " Broughton Archipelago," "Knight's Canal," " Smith's Inlet," " Rivers Canal," etc. The fact that Vancouver's report was published several yeai-s 1)efore that of Galiano and Valdez's, and that this region was subse([uently settled by English speaking people, accounts for the surAnval of the English nomen- clature. He continued his explorations as far north as latitude 52** IS', when he tume«l about and sailed foi* Nootka Sound, reaching that port on the twentv-eiirhth of Auijust. Here he found the store ship Dcrdalns, which had been sent out from England with supplies and fresh instmctions for his guidance in arranging affaii-s at Nootka. There he remained for more than a month, engaged in the fulfill- ment oi' the diplomatic purposes of his visit. ANTiile awaiting Vancouver's arrival. Quadra had not l>een idle, but had been gathering evidence from the Indians and ti-aders, and was especial^v fortunate in securing a statement of the events of 1788-9 at Nootka, signed by Gray, Viana (then commanding a Por- tuiiuese vessel ), and Insrraham, the latter beiuij now the commander of the trading vessel Hope. All three of these were officei"s of ves- sels which were present at Nootka during the occuiTence of the dis- puted events. They testified that the Englishmen haut he was met l)y (Quadra with proofs showing that, according to the terms of the treaty, there was nothing to be sur- rendered. Vanccmver would listen to nothing l)Ut a transfer of the port, though he was unalde to show any precise stipulation to that efFeit in the treaty. Quansent to make it he would dei)art. It was finally decided that the present status should be maintained and the two connnissioners should submit the facts to their respective governments. Conseipiently, Vancouver dis])atcheoth the Spanish and English charts as the " Island of Vancouver and Quadra." In after yeai*s, owing to plainly apparent causes, the latter 's name was di'opped from the title. The indenniity to be paid by Sj>ain to Meares and his asso- ciates was finally fixeutinue4l to the mouth of the Cohunbia. On the nu»ming of the nineteenth the Clialliani and Discovery attemptnl the juissjige of the l»ar, the former eiossing safely, l>ut the latter hauling off f«»r fear there was not a suftieient dej)tli of water. This circumstanct' le«l Vancouver to record in his journal that his "former opinion of tlus |x»it iK-ing inaccessible to vessels of oiu' ])Uitlien wjis now fully ci>nfimied. with this exception, that in very tine weather, with m«»ler:Ue win«is, and a smooth sea, vessels not exceeilinir four hundreil t<»us miirht, s«.i far JUS we \vere able to iudije, ijain admittance." It wif while Iviuir at anchor (tff the bar that he gainey saying that he affected to consi Nootka in October, he found that no instructions had ar- rived fi'om home, and he sailed for California. The Spaniards still remained in (piiet possession of the dis])uted 2)oi*t. Quite a number of trading vessels \vere on the coast that season, but the peculiar conunercial character of their voyages prevented them fi'om accom- plishing anything of geographical or historical value. In April, 171>8, the Mexican Viceroy, Revilla-Gigedo, sent a full report of the events and status of affairs at Nootka to the home government, accompanied by recommendations for the future course of Spain. These were to the effect that recent explorations had prac- tically demonsti'ated that no Northwest Passage existed, unless, in- deed, it was found by way of the Columbia River, («• Entrada de Ileceta, .ind consequently that the trouble and expense of maintain- ing a station as far north as Nootka was. unnecessary for the pro- tection of Spanish interests. He advise4, and extended his ex})lorations as far as the head of Cook's Inlet, becoming convinced that no passage whatever connected the Pacific with the Atlantic or any of the l»ays or seas leading off from it. lie then went to Nootka, arriving on the second of September, where he found Alava, the Sj)anisli counnissioner. Neither was aAvare of the terms of settlement, so they enjoyed each other's hos- pitalities and awaited instructions. No orders having been received by the sixteenth the commissioners sailed for Monterey, where Al- ava soon afterwards ivceived his instructions. These were to the effect that an amicable settlement had be'en arrived at, and that England had ai)pointed a new conmiissioner. Upon receipt of this intelligence A'ancouver at once set sail for England, ^vhere he ar- rived in October, 1795. His narrative of his four years' voyag*' and explorations, the most complete and important ever issued up to that time, Avas published in 1798, previous to which the great explorer died. The settlement spoken of was the one signed at Madrid by the representatives of Spain and England, on the eleventh of January, 1794. The tide of European politics had so ,'uni'xi that it was then the best policy of both England and Spain to form an alliance, hence the nuitual concessions in this agreem*. ut. The treaty pro- vided that commissioners of both nations should meet at Nootka, and that formal possession of the tract claimed l)y Meares be given to the representative of England by the Spanish commissioner. It continued in the following explicit language: — Then the British officer shall unfurl the British flag over the land thus restored as a sign of possession, and after these formalities the officers of the two crowns shall retire respectively their people from the said port of Nootka. And their said majesties have furthermore agreed that the subjects of both nations shall be free to frequent the said port as may be convenient, and to erect there temporary buildings for their accommodation during their residence on such occasions. But neither of the two parties shall make in said port any permanent establishment, or claim there any right of sovereignty or territorial dominion to the exclusion of the other. And to PUGEX'80UND AND COLUMBIA KIVKR DISCOVKRKl). 120 their oaid majesties will aid each other to maintain their ^ubjectH in free iicceHH to the said port of Nootlia againut whatever other nation may att«mpt to establisli there any sovereignty or dominion. This solemn farce was actually enactnl theiv on the twenty-third of March, 1795, ]>y General Alava on th«' |>art <»f Spain, and Lieu- tenant Thomas Pierce as representative of Great Britain. Eveiy- thing portable was then embarked on tlie Spanish vessels, which sailed away and left Nootka again in th<' soh' possessi plant a colony here, and thus the matter stood for nearly a score of years, when the question of ownership was raised by a new claimant — the United States. Traders continued to carry on the fur lousiness as Ijefore, but their operations were of little historical importance. CHAPTER IX. OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. Oi'tjanlsation of the Nviihioest Company of Montreal Mackenzie^ s Journey to the Arctic Ocean — His Trip to the Pacific in 1793 — Dis- covery and Naming of Frnner River — T. eaty of 179^. Opens a West- ern Field for American Tracers — Confliotini/ Claims of Various Nations at the Beginning of the Present Century—Spain Reconveys Louisiana to France in 1800 — Thomas Jefferson'' s Efforts to have the Unknown Region Explored — Louisiana Purchased hy the United States — The Lewis and Clarke Expedition — They Winter loith the Mandan Lndians — Ascend the Missouri — Cross to Clarke^s Fork — Reach the Nl~ Perces — Descend Clearwater, Lewis [Snake) and Columbia Rivers to the L^aoific — Winter at Fort Clatsop — The Mult- nomah, or Willamette, River — The Walla Walla, Cayuse and Net Perce Indians — Lewis and Clarke Descend the Yellowstone and Missouri — Effect of their Great Journey — Anxiety of irreat Britain — Fort Eraser Established in New Caledoihior — Fort Henry Built on Snake River. IT ha.s been related how the early French explorers pushed their way gradually westward, until, in 1743, the Verendryes pene- trated to the heart of the ll«>cky Mountains, and how, with the con- (piest of Canada by the English, these explorations suddenly cesised. Thirty years elapsed before they were again rv^s'uued by sul)jects of the new rnlei's of ( 'anada, except in the instance of Captain Carver, whose j)retentions claims have already been considered. Meanwhile, the American Colonies had fought and gained the War of Inde- pendence, and, as a result, P^ngland was dt^^rived of all her posses- sions south of the great chain of lakes. France had sold Louisiana to Spain, as has l>een related, which gave that nation, in conjunction with her California possessions, propi-ietary claim to the whole OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. 131 country Ipng between the Mississippi and the Pacific, and extend- ing indefinitely northward. How extensive that region was, or what it contained, no one knew, and the Spanish owners were not inquisitive enough to find out. England was cut off from it except in the region lying north of Minnesota, certainly not a very in\'iting field for exploration ; and the young Republic was too busy setting its government in good running order to engage in explorations of new territories. When, at last, westward journeys were again undertaken, it was solely l)y private enterprise in the interests of trade. A number of Montreal fur traders pushed a^. fai* westward as the Athabasca and Saskatchewan as early as 1775, and carried on an independent trade wnth the natives. Competitit)n with the Hud- son's Bay Company became too heavy for them indi' Ithially, and in 1784 they combined together as the Northwest (Joinpany of Mon- treal. Thus strengthened, and all its agents l)ein^ interested part- ners, it prospered wonderfully and became, in a few years, a most powerful organization. In 17H8 the station which iiad been estab- lished ten years before on Athabasca River was removed to Lake Athabasca, some twelve hundred miles northwest of Lake Superioi-, and called " Fort Chipewyan," and this became the great western headquaiters of the company. Traders covered the whole country east of the Rocky Mountains almost to the Arctic. This advance post wjis under the charge of Alexander Macken- zie, a partner in the Northwest Company, who made a journey to the north in 1789, discovered the Mackenzie River, and followed it from its source in (xreat Slave Lake to where it discharges its icy waters into the Arctic Ocean. By this journey the cluu'acter and extent of the continent to the northwest was ascertained, aa well as the fact that there existed no passage between the Atlantic and Pacific south of the great northern sea. In 1791 he started with a small l)arty upon a western tri]), intent upon reacliing the Pacific. Fol- lowing up Peace River to the base of the Kocky Mountains, he (tamped there for the winter, and in the spring continued his journey «long the course of that stream and came upon the Fr.'iser River, down which he passed in canoes a distance oi two huiubvd and fifty miles. To this stream he applied the Indian title of "Tacoutchee- Tiissee," a nan)e somewhat similar to that which the navigators hud I3y HI8T0KY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. a few years before applied to the Straits of Fuca. He finally abandoned the river and struck directly westward, reaching the coast at the North Bentinck Arm, only a short time after it had been explored by Vancouver's fleet. When he learned upon his return that the mouth of the Columbia had been discovered, he supposed that the large river which he had followed so far south- ward must 1)6 that great stream; and so it was considered to be until twenty years later, when Simon Fraser, a representative of the same fur company, descended it to its mouth in the Gulf of Georgia, and ascertained its true character. As Mackenzie's name was aL v ady applied to a large river, this stream wa^ then christened " Fraser Kiver." Tliese various sea and land expeditions had proved three very, important facts: first, that there was no water passage for vessels across the continent; second, that by following the courses of streams and lakes the overland journey could be nearly accom- })lished in ])oat8; third, that this vast imexplored region abounded in fur-bearing animals, a fact which led, in a few years, to its occu- pation by the rival fur traders, both English and American. At this time the Spanish chiim of Louisiana clouded the whole region west of the Mississippi, and though its limits were undefined, it extended indefinitely into the unknown region lying north of Mexico and California. The Americans were especially hampered in their trading operations on the frontier. The Mississippi formed a defi- nite and recognized western boundery to the territory of the United States, and the line of forts along the south side of the chain of great lakes were still held by Great Britain, notwithstanding they should have been sm-rendered under the treaty of 1788. When that convention was f»fected their government and regulated those national affairs requi ir.v immediate and careful consideration, and during that time ii v ". • 'die lo think of furthei accessions of territory. How- ever, in 1792, he proposed to the American Philosophical Society that a subscription be raised for the purpose of engaging some com- petent person to explore the country lying between the Mississippi \u U18T0RY OF WILLAMKTTK VAI.LKY. River and Pacific Ocean, " by Jiacencling the MisHouri, crossing the Stony Mountains, and descending the nearest river to the Pacific." His suggestion was acted upon, and the position having been eagerly solicited by Lieutenant Meriwether Lewis, a Virginian, that gentle- man was selected at the recommendation of Mr. Jefferson. His traveling companion was Mr. Andre Michaux, a distinguished French botanist, then living in the United States in the employ of his govti'nment. When they had proceeded as far as Kentucky, Mr. Michaux was recalled by tl^ French Minister, and the expedi- tion was abandoned. Soon after France again acquire itle to Louisiana, Napoleon i-ecognized the fact that it would only he a source of annoyance and expense to the nation. His ambitious designs in Europe arrayed England and other po\verful nations in hostility to France, and to avoid the necessity of having to provide for the protection of vast territorial possessions, as well as to place in the field an active and now powerful rival to England, be opened secret negotiations for the tr.msfer of the whole Pro\'ince to the LTnited States. Mr. Jef- ferson was then President, and grasped eagerly the o[)portunity to realize his long- cherished desire, and by so doing render his admin- istration one to be forever rememl)ered l)y his countrymen. Even before the treaty was concluded, he began to i)ut his plan of oper- ations into effect; and on the eighteenth of January, 1803, lie sub- mitted to Congress a special message on the Indian (piestion, in which he incorporated a suggestion that an official expedition be dispatched u})on the same journey as the private one woidd have accomplished ten ye'ars before, had it not been abandoned. Con- gress approved the idea and made an ample appropriation to carry it into effect. Lewis was then acting in the capacity of private sec- retar}' to tlie President, and once more solicited the direction of the enterprise. In tliis he was again successful. He held at that time the rank of captain, and having selected AVilliam Clarke as his asso- ciate, tliat gentleman also received a captain's commission. In the instructions drawn up for the guidance of the party, tlie Presiddit says: "The o])ject of your mission is to explore the Missoiu'i River, and such principal streams of it, as, by its course and communication with the waters of the Pacific Ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregon, Colorado, or any other river, may offer the OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE I'ACIFK' 185 most direct aud practicable water coinimiiiication across the conti- nent, for the i)urpo8es of commerce." They were directed to ac- quire as intimate a knowledge as possible of the extent and number of Indian tril)es, their manners, customs and degree of civilization, and to report fully upon the topography, the character of the soil, the natural products, the animal life and minerals, as well as to as- certain by scientific observations and inquiry as much as possible about the climate, and to impiire especially into the fur trade and the needs of commerce. Since Louisiana had not yet been formally conveyed to the United States, the instructitms contained a para- graph saying: " Your mission has been communicated to the min- isters here from P^ ranee, Spain and (Ireat Britain, and through them to their governments; and such assurances g: -"■ HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLKV. The westwaiii journey was resumed iu the spring of 1805. They still followetl up the Missouri, of whose coui'se, tri1>utaries and the great falls they had received very minute and accurate information fi'oni their Mandan fi'iends. Passing the mouth of the Yellowstone, which name they recoiil as being but a translation of "Ro<"he Jaune," the title given it by the French- Canadian trappei"s who had already visited it, they continued up the Missouri, pjissed the castellate with a scene witnessed by this same Lolo trail seventy-two yeai-s later when Howard's army hotly i)ursued Chief Joseph and his little l>and of hostile Nez Perces, who were fleeing before the avengei-s fi'om the scene of their many bloody massacres. The almost famished men partook of such quantities of the food liberally providetl by theii" savage hosts that man}" of them l>ecame ill, among them being Captain Clarke, who was unable to continue the journey until the second day. He then went to the village of Twisted -hair, the chief, situated on an island in the strejmi men- tioned. To the river he gave the name " Koos-koas-kee," errone- ously supposing it to be its Indian title. The probabilities are that the Nez Perces, in trying to inform Captain Clarke that this river flowed into a still larger one, the one variously known sus " Lewis," " Sahaptin " or " Snake," used the words " Koots-kootv'»-kee," mean- ing " This is the smaller," and were understood to have meant that as the name of the stream. The Nez Perce name is " Kaih-kaih- OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. 137 koosh," signifying "Cleanvater," the title it is generally known by. Having lieen united, the two parties a few days later journeyed on down the Clearwater. Concerning their deplorable condition and their method of traveling the journal says: " Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken very ill last evening, and to-day he could scarcely sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme weakness and pain, were forced to lie down alongside of the road. * * * The weather was very hot and oppressive to the party, most of whom are now complaining of sickness. Our situation, indeed, rendered it neces- sary to husband our remaining strength, and it was determined to proceed down the river in canoes. Captain Clarke, therefore, set out with Twisted-hair, and two young men, in quest of timber for canoes. * * * Having resolved to go down to some spot calculated for building canoes, we set out early this morning and pi'oceedetl five miles, and encamped on the low ground on the south, opposite the forks of the river." The canoes being constructed, they embarked, in the month of October, on their journey down the Clear- water and connecting streams, for the Pacific, leaving what remained of their horses in charge of the friendly Nez Perces. They had for some time lieen subsisting upon roots, fish, horse-meat and an occa- sional deer, crow, or wolf, but having left their horses behind them, their resort, when out of other food, now became the wolfish dogs they purchased fi'om the Indians. Upon reaching Snake River, which was named in honor of Captain LeAvis, the canoes were turned down that stream, which they followed to the Columbia, naming the Tukannon River " Kim- so-emim," a title derived fi'om the Indians, and upon the Palouse l)e8towing the name ''Drewyer," in honor of the hunter of the party. They then followed down the Columbia, passing a number of rapids, and arrived at the Cascades on the twenty-first of October. A portage was made of all their effects and a portion of the canoes, the remainder making the perilous descent of the Cascades in safety. The mouth of the Willamette was passed without the addition of so large a stream being noticed. Cape Disappointment was reached November fifteenth, and the eyes of the weary travelei-s were gladdened with a sight of the great ocean which had been their goal for more than a year. The season of winter rains having set in, 138 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. they were soon driven by high water from the low land on the north bank of the stream, eleven miles above the cape, which thej- had selecteil for their winter residence. They then left the Chin- ooks, crosseil the river, and built a habitation on the high land on the south side oi the stream, which they called " Fort Clatsop," in honor of the Indians which iuhal>ited that reijion. Here thev spent the winter, making occasional short excursions along the coast. The departure for home was delayed with the hope that some trading vessel might appear, from Aviiich sadly-neeiled supplies could be oV)tained, but being disappointed in this they loadetl their canoes, and on Mai'ch 23, 180(i, took final leave of Fort Clat.*op. Before going they presented the chiefs of the Chinooks and Clatsops ^^'ith certificates of kind and hosj3ital)le treatment, and circulatetl among the natives several papers, posting a copy on the wall of the abandoneject of this last Is that through the metlium of some civilized person, who may see the same, it may V»e made known tt> the world, that the part^-, con- sisting of the pei-sous whose names are hereunto annexed, and who were sent out V»y the Government of the United States to explore the interior of the continent of North xVmerica, did penetrate the same by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivei-s, to the dis- charge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on the fourteenth day of November, 1805, and departetl the twentA"- third day of ^larch, 18()<% on their return to the UnitKl States by the same route by which they had comv out," T«-> this was appended a list of the mend>ers of the expedition. One of these copies was handed by an Indian the following year to Captain Hall, an Ameri- can fur trailer, whose vessel, the Lydia, had entereurney, evidence of the completitm of theu' task was not wanting. Upon taking an invoice of their possessions })efore starting up^»u the ret\n-n, the\ found that their gooils available for traffic with the Indians consisted of six blue robes, one scarlet rol)e, one Unitetl States artillery hat and coat, five robes made frt>m the national ensign, and a few old clothes trimmed \nth ribbon. Upon these must they depend for pm*chasmg pro\'isions and horses, and for v^nnning the hearts of stublwm chiefs. They proceeded up the OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. 139 south bank of the stream, until they came unexiiectedly upon a large river flowing into it from the south. On an island near its mouth, knoAVTi to the early trappei^s as '* Wapatoo," and now called "Sauvne's Island," they came u[)on an Indian village, where they were refused a suppl}' of food. To impress them with his jiower, Captain Clarke entered one of their habitations and cast a few sulphur matches into the fire. The savages were frightened at the blue flame, and looked upon the strange visitor as a great medicine man. They implored him to extinguish the " evil fire," and l)rought all the food he desired. The name of the Indian village was " Mult- nomah," but Captain Clarke understood the name to apply to the river, of whose coui-se he made careful incpiiry. Ujion the map of this expedition the " Multnomah " is indicated as extending south- ward and eastward into California and Nevada, and the Indians who residepitalities to Lewis and Clarke, and because of the imp«jrtaiit p:irt the Walla Wallas and Cayuses played in the after hLstorj- of thi« region, the following account given ]>y those gentlemen of their t-ntertainers is presented. Their journal says: — Immediately upon our arrival, Yellept, who proved to be a man of much influ- ence, not only in his own, but in the neighboring nation-^. coIk«<«d the inhabitants and, after having made a harangue, the purport of which 'wai> to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, set them an example, by brineini; hinif>elf an amifiil of wood and a platter containing three roastetl mullets. They immediately a.s!i*-nted to one part, at least, of the recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plain>i. We then purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on «hcKt allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indiana retired imiae- diately on our request, and, indeed, uniformly eondurted themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which are very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at present they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing from one to three pounds. » ♦ * Monday, twenty-eighth, we purchased ten dogs. While this trade was carrying on by our men. Yellept brought a line white horse and presented him to Captain Clarke, exprcsifing at the same time a wish to have. a kettle; but on being informed that we had already dis- posed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would Ije c-ontent with any prej*- ent we should make in return. Captain Clarke, therefore, gave his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a desire, adding one hundred balls, some pow- der, and other small articles, with which he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to depart, and requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of crossing the river. But he would not listen to any proposal of leaving the village. He wished us to remain two or three days; but would not let us go to-day. for he had already sent to invite his neighbors, the Chininapooe (Cayuses , to come down this evening and join his people in a dance for our amusement. We urged, in vain, that by setting out sooner we would the earlier return with the articles they desired ; for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. We at length mentioned that, as there was no wind, it was now the best time to cross the river, and would merely take the horses over and return to sleep at their village. To this he assented, and then we crossed with our horses, and having hobbied them, returned to their camp. Fortunately there was among these WollawoUah* a prisoner, Ix-longing to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the Multnomah, and visiting occasionally the heads of the WoIlawoUah creek. Our Shoshonee woman, Bucajaweah, though she belonged to a tribe near the Mifeouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner, and by their means we were able to explain our- selves to the Indians, and answer all their inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought several sick persons for whom they requested our assistance. We splintered the broken arm of one, gave scoie relief to another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and administered what we thought beneficial for ulcers and eruptions of the skin, on various parts of the body, which are very conmiou disorders among them. But our most valuable medldne was eye-water, which we OVEKLAND JOURNEYS TO THK PACIFIC. 141 distributed, and which, indeed, they required very much ; the complaint of the eyes, occasioned by living on the water, and increased by the Hne sand of the plains, being now universal. A little before sunset, the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men and a few women, came to the village, and joining the WoUawollahs, who were about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle round our tamp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed to dance, which they did for about an hour, to the tune of the violin. They then requested to see the Indians dance. With this they readily complied, and the whole assenil)lage, amounting, with the women and children of the village, to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. The exercise was not, indeed, very graceful, for the greater part of them were formed into a solid column, round a kind of hollow square, stood on the same place, and merely jumped up at intervals, to keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active warriors ent«red tlie square and danceil round it sidewise, and some of our men joined in the dance, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. The dance continuetl till ten o'clock the next morning. In tlie course of the day we gave small medals to two inferior chiefs, each of whom made us a present of a tine horse. We were in a |)oor condition to make an aderjuate acknowledgement for this kindness, but gave several articles, among which was a pistol, with some hundred rounds of ammunition. We have, iudeetl, been treated by these people with an unusual degree of kindness and civility. * * * We may, indeed, justly affirm that of all the Indians whom we have met since leaving tlie United States, the WoUawollahs were the most hospitable, honest and sincere. Bidding adieu to these hospitable people, they left the Colum- bia oil the twenty-ninth of April and followed eastward what is known as the " Nez Perce Trail." Tliey went up the Touchet, called by them " AVhite Stallion," because of the present Yellept had matle to Captain Clarke, the Patet and Pataha and down the Alpowa to Snake river, which they crossed and followed up the north side of ClearNvater until they reached the village of Twisted- hair, where had been left their horses the fall before. The Lolo trail was not }et free from snow, and for six weeks they resided among the Nez Perces, a tribe closely ^voven into the history of this region. (Jf them and the intercourse held with them the fall before, the jt)urnal says: — The Chopunnish, or Pierce-nosed, nation, wlio reside on the Kooskooske an?^ Lewis' Rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men ; the women are small, with good features, and generally handsome, though the complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The buffalo or elk skin robe decorated with lieads, sea-shells (chiefly mother-of-pearl), attached to an otter-ekin collar, and hung in the hair, which falls in front in two queues ; feathers, paint of difTerent kinds (principally white, green and light blue), all of which they find in their own countrj' ; these are the chief ornaments they use. In winter they wear a short shirt of dres.sed skins, long painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass around tlie neck. The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt of argaliaor ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles without a girdle ; to this are lied little pieces of brass and sheila, and other small articles: but the bead is not at 142 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLEY. all ornamented. The drens of the female is, indeed, more modest, and more studi- ously HO, tlian any we have observed, though the other sex is careless of the inde- licacy of txposure. Tlie Chopunnlsli have very few amusements, for their life is painful ami laiiorii.us; and all tlieir exertions are necessary to earn even their pre- carious suhsistoncc. During the summer and autunm they are busily occupied in tisliing for salmon, undcollectiufr their winter store of roots. In the winter they iiunt the (leer on snow-shoes over the plains, and towards spring cross the moun- tains to the Missouri, for the i>uri)ose of tratfldng for buffalo robes. The incon- veniences of that comfortless life are increased by frequent encounters with their enj-niies from the west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, and sonietimt-s the lives of nuiny of the nation. Tliough originally the same people, their dialect varies very perceptil)ly from that of the Tushepaws ; their treatment of us ditl'ereti much from the liind and disinterested services of the Slioslionees (Snalies); tliey are indeed sclHsh and avaricious; they part very reluc- tantly with every article of footi or clotiiing ; and while they expect a recompense for every service, however small, do not concern themselves about reciprocating any presents we may give them. They are generally healthy — the only disorders, which we liave had occasion to renuirli, l)eing of a scrofulous kind, and for these, as well as for the anuisenient of those who are in good health, hot and cold bathing is very coninionly used. 'I'he soil of these prairies is of a light yellow clay, inter- mixed witli small, smooth grass; it is barren, and produces little more than a bearded grass about three inches high, and a prickly pear, of which we now found tiiree si)ecies. It is very evident that these gentlemen were not acquainted with the atti-ibutes of tlie succulent bunch grass, nor of the soil, for those prairies constitute the now celebrated wheat lands of Eastern Ore- gon and Washington and Northern Idaho. They made an unsuccessful attempt to cross the Bitterroot Mountains on the fifteenth of June, but found the trails l^locked with snow. On the thirtieth, however, they safely crosseti. On the fourth of July it was decided to pursue two routes for a dis- tance; accordingly, Cai)tain Lewis, with a portion of the party, crossed the Rocky Moinitains to the Missouri, and follo\\ed dow^n the main stream, exploring the larger tributaries and learning much of the geography of Montana. With the remainder of the party Clarke crossed to the Yellowstone, and descended that stream to its mouth, uniting again with Captain Lewis some distance below that point on the twelfth of August. There stands to the present day on the south bank of the Yellowstone, between the cities of Miles City and Billings, a monument to commemorate the visit of this expedition. It is known as " Pompey's Pillar," and consists of a detached body of yellow sandstone, which rises alu'uptly on three sides to the height of four hundred feet. On the north side, at a place which can be letuihed by claudjering over the heavy blocks the n OVERLAND JOI'KXKYS TO THK I'AriKIC. 143 of sandstone Juokeii down from the IkkIv of the cliff, in a place sheltered from the elements })y an overlianirintr wall <»f rock, the leader carved his autogi'a]th; ami the characters. " William Claike, July 25, 18()<)," can l)e still di.-itinctly trace*!. When again united, the party continued their journey douTi the Missouri, and reache<), havinir lieen al»sent nearly two and one-half years. ^ The retiu'u of Lewis and Clarke \va.s the cause «»f threat rejoicinir in the Unite: "Nevci- did a similar event excite more joy throu_irh«>ut the Unit«nl Stat«*s. The hiunbiest of its citizens had taken a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward with- impatience to the information it would furnish. Their anxieties, too, for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of e.xcitement l»y luirubrious rnmor<, circulated from time to time on uncertain authoritie?*, and uncontradicT> d l)y letters, or other direct information, fiom the time they liad left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the river in A]iril of the precediuij; year, • iSOo, until their actual return to St. Louis.** Captain I^ewis was, soon after his return, appointed Governor of Louisiana, with which his journey had rendered him more familiar than any other man except his associate; and Captain Clarke wa.< apjK>inted General of Militia of the same Tei-ritory, and agent for Indian affairs in that viist region he had explored. During a |>eri^Kl of tempoi-ary mental derangement. Captain Lewis died by hi.s own hand, in September, ISO'.), before he had fully comj)leteriug parties were traversing Louis- iana in various directions in search of information for the govern nient. Lieutenant Pike jwcended the Mississippi to its headwaters in 180."), and the following year journeyetl s(»uthwestward from the mouth of the Missouri to the sources of the Arkansas, Red and Rio Bravo del Norte. At the same time Dun])ar, Hunter and Sil)ley explored Red River and its companion streams. These exploi'ations served to greatly stimulate the fiu- trade carried on 144 HToTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. from St. Louis and IMackinaw, as well as to strengthen the govern- ment in its purpose of adhering to its right to Louisiana. When Great Britain received the oftici il notification mentioned l>y President Jefferson in his letter of instructions to Captain Lewis, which was (piickly followed by intelligence that the region to which it referred had been ceded by France to the United States, much anxiety \vas felt l)y the Government and such of its subjects as were personally interested in the coimtry under consideration. Espec- ially were the Northwest and Hudson's Bay Compaiiies anxious for the future of their interests in that region, more particularly the ft)rmer, Avliose hunters were operating further south and west than those of the rival company. The French claim to Louisiana, founded solely upon technical grounds, had not been a st)urce of nuich uneasiness; but now that it had been transferred to a nation both able and anxious to make an effort to perfect the title by re- ducing the countiy to actual possession, the matter presented an en- tirely different aspect. Naturally, the technical title was not recog- nized in its entirety ; that is, there was a vast region lying north of the forty-second parallel and west of the liocky Mountains, known a few y r '"s later as " Oregon," and embracing the watershed of the CoiuKibia River, which might be held by the United States unaer the Louisiana title and the discovery right of Captain Gray, pro- vided these claims were perfected by actual occupation ; similar oc- cupation might entitle (areat Britain to its possession as a perfec- tion of her technical title, claimed by discovery through Captain Francis Drake, and 'Xploration by Captain Cook, Captain Vancou- ver and Alexander Mackenzie. Both nations having color of title, possession became the decisive issue. The Northwest Company im- media^^'dy sent a i>arty to establish trading posts on the Columbia, under command of a trusted agent naL.^d Laroque. He started in 1804, but failed to progi'ess farther than the Mandan coiuitry, and the Columl)ia stations were not established, Shnon Fraser, another agent of the company, left Fort Chipewyan in 1805, and followed the route pursued formerly by Mackenzie until he reached Fraser River. At Fraser Lake, a few miles west of the point where the river turns to the southward, he estaljlished a trading post, bestow- ing the name " New Caledonia " upon that region. As the Fraser was then considered identical with tlie Colujn}>ia, it was supposed OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC 145 that this post was on the great stream for the possession of which England and America were contending. Though this idea was subsequently learned to be erroneous, the fact remained true that the post was the first establishment made by the subjects of either nation west of the Rocky Mountains. The Americans were not far behind, for the Missouri Fur Company was organized in 1808, with headquarters at St. Louis. The same year trading posts 'svere es- tablished on the affluents of the Mississippi and Missouri, and one of the agents of the company, named Henry, crossed the Rocky Mountains, and founded Fort Henry, on the headwaters of Lewis, or Snake, River, the first American establishment, and, as it proved, the first of any kind on a tril)utary of the Columbia. The next was made nearer the mouth of the stream in 1810, by an American whose name has been variously given by superficial histoiians as " Smith," "T. Winship" and "Nathaniel Winship," none of which are cor- rect. Early in 1809 a partnership was formed in Ht)ston between A})iel Winship, Jonathan Winship, Nathan Winship, Benjamin P. Homer and a few others, for the purpose of founding a settle- ment on the Columbia as a base of trading operaticms, the settle- ment to be a permanent one. With everything necessary to the suc- cess of the project, Nathan Winship sailed in the Albatross in Jidy, William Smith being his chief mate. He carried written instruc- tions, by which it appears that the projectors of the enter[)rise were wise enough to believe that Indian character was the same on the Pacific as it had been found to be on the Atlantic. It was the de- sign to buy the land from the natives; to erect a two-story log liouse with port-holes for cannon and loop-holes for rifies; the second story to be the arsenal where all the arms and annuunition were to be stored, and to which no Indian was to be adm!;ced uptm any consideration, entrance to be effected by means of a ti-a[) door and laxhler; agriculture to be carried on under the guns of the fort, which was always to be guarded by a sufiicieui force. William A. Gale kept a journal, which gives the details of the ex{)edition. When the Albatross reached the Sandwich Islands, \\'iushi[) found a letter there from his l)rothp»' Jonathan, who was in command of the trading vessel OCain, advising him to make haste, jis the Russians had designs on the Columbia. It was the twenty-sixth of May, 1810, that the Albatross entered the river nnd began sounding it to locate 14() HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ^'^t tlie channel, gradually ascending the stream. On the first of June Winship and Smith selected a point on the south bank of the stream some forty miles above its mouth, which they called "Oak Point," because they observed there four oak trees, the first they had seen since entering the river. The place now known as " Oak Point " is on the opposite side of the river, a fact which has led some writers into the error of stating that this first American settlement on the Columbia was made in Washington Territory. They at once began preparations in accordance with their plans, such as hewing logs for the fort and clearing a patch of tlje fertile tract for a garden ; but tliey were soon initiated into the mysteries of the "June Rise," for the annual freshets of that season covered their building site and garden [)atch to the depth of several feet long before they had the fort erected. A patch of higher gi'ound five hundred yards further down the stream was selected, and the logs floated down to it, but as the natives had begun to exhibit symptoms of hostility, Winship decided to jd^andon the effort. On the seventeenth of June he dropped down to the mouth of the river, learning on the way that only his vigilance had pi-evented the capture of his vessel by the ('hinooks. lie then sailed on a trading voyage, expecting to return the next }'ear and found a settlement, but in this he wtus forestalled by the Astor party. The Albatross had quite a string of adven- tures before again reaching Boston, being seized once on the Cali- fornia coast, and once blockaded by British men ol war at the Hawaiian Islands. Thus were the first two settlements on the river made by Americans, and it will be seen that the third and most important was also made by them. CHAPTER X. ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TREATY. The Pacific Fur Trade at the Beginning of the Present Century — Ameri,- cans in the Lead — Their Plan of Operations— Rtissia Com2>lain8 of the Sale of Fire- Arms to the Indians — John Jacob Astor^s Plans— The Pacific Fur Company Organized — Astor''s Alien Partners — The ^^Tonquin^^ Sails from New York — Dissensions on the Voyage — Dan- gers of the Columbia Bar-^— Astoria Founded — Sad Fate of the '•'■Ton- quin " and Her Crew — Appearance at Astoria of an Agent of the Northwest Company — Fort Okinagan— Launch of the " Dolly " — Sufferings of Wilson Price Hunfs Party — Operations ulong the Columbia — Astoria Sold to the Northwest Company — Captured by the English and Named '■'■Fort George" — UnsucceK^^nl Efforts of Mr. Astor to Regain Possession — Negotiations und< < ■'/"■ Treaty of Ghent — Confidcting Claims to Oregon Advanced by Enyland and the United States — Technical Surrender of Fort George^Joint Occu- pation Agreed Upon — The Florida Treaty. DURING the first ten years of the present century, Anierieann took the lead in the fishing and fur trade of the Pacific, thougli the vessels of other nations were not an unfrequent sight to the waters of our coast. The reasons for this were simple. Russians did not enjoy the privilege of entering the few Chinese ports open to the commerce of more favored nations, and therefore did their trading by land fi'om Kamtchatka, as previously descril)ed; the English independent traders were excluded from the Pacific l)y the monopoly grants of the East India Company and South Sea Cora- v. pany. Naturally this usurpation of the fur trade by Americans was distasteful to rival nations, and especially to the English, who did not then, and, in fact, seldom do now, recognize the enterprise and commercial spirit of the "Yankees" as commendable, or admit \ 148 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. tlieir superioj-ity, or even e(iiiality, in anything. Though often the i'('|)ivsentiitives of wealthy and long-established business houses, tliese traders were cla^^sed l)y them as "adventurers," and very slightingly spoken of, while their skill as navigators and judgment as traders were not recognized as deserving of praise. Archibald Campbell gives the following contemptuous review of the "Yan- kee" method of conducting the fur trade: — Thesi' jKjveuturers set out on the voyage with a few trinkets of very little value. Ill tlie Southern Pacific, they pick up a few seal skins, and perhaps a few butts of oil; at the Gallipagos, they lay in turtle, of which they preserve the shells; at Val- paraiso, they raise a few dollars in exchange foi' European articles ; at Nootka, and other parts of the Northwest Coast, they tratHc with the natives for furs, which, when winter coninieiKies, they carry to the Sandwich Islands, to dry and preserve from vermin ; iiere they leave their own people to take care of them, and, in the spring, embark, in lieu, tlie natives of the islands, to assist in navigating to the Northwest Coast in search of more skins. The remainder of the cargo is then made up of sandal, which grows abundantly in the woods of Atooi and Owyhee (Hawaii), of tortoise shells, shark's fins, and pearls of an inferior kind, all of which are accept- able in the Chinese market ; and with these and their dollars they purchase cargoes of teas, silks and nankins, and thus complete their voyage in the course of two or three years. With the exception of the assertion that their outward cargo consisted solely of a "few trinkets," this may be called a correct statement of the Yankee method, and, so far from proving them to liave been mere adventurers, shows that their v^oyages were con- ducted ^vith a clear idea of the nature of the Chinese trade and the only successfid method of conducting it. Htid the traders of rival nations shown the same good judgment and managed their enter- prises in the same systematic manner, they would liuve met with a greater measure of success. The vessels were geiieially large ones, disjiatched l)y wealthy merchants, and besides the trinkets, carried valuable cargoes of English and American manufactured goods, with which they supplied the Russian and Spanish settlements on the Coast. The Russians in particular were dependent upon the American traders for ammunition, sugar, spirits, and manufactured articles generally. The "trinkets" sj)oken of were used in the Indian trade, as has been the custom from time immemorial with civilized nations in their dealincrs with inferior races. C'oiumer- cially of little value, they were highly prized l)y the natives, who would give for them more furs than they would offer for some object worth Um times the amount, but which did not strike their fancy, ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TKKATV. 149 or was of no use to them iu their maimer of living. This method of trading with the Indians was practiced as much by the Hudson's Bay Company and Northwest Company as by the Americans; nor was it confined to English-speaking nations, for the Russians also i)artered beads and cheap ornaments for valuable furs. Such arti- cles have always been considered a " valuable considei'ation " by ev'ery nation in dealing with uncivilized races. Certain of these traders were guilty of improper and impolitic conduct, however, and this was the chief cause of bringing them into disrepute. Tliey used whisky and fire-arms as articles of mer- chandise, reaping present profit, but sowing the seeds of decay which have swept away the native iniiabitants of the Coast likes flies by an October frost. It would, at the first glance, seem that the pos- session of fire-arms by the Indians would enable them to hunt more successfully, and thus, by rendering the supply of furs more abun- dant, add to the profit of the traders; but there was another face to the matter. Irving says: " In this way several fierce tribes in the vicinity of the Russian posts, or within range of their trading excur- sions, were furnished with deadly means of warfare, and rendered troul)lesome and dangerous neigh]>ors.'" The Russians were ex- tieinely harsh and illiberal in their dealings with the aborigines, winning their hostility instead of good will, and they naturally objected to the placing of the defrauded tribes on an equality M'ith themselves in the matter of weapons of war. Complaint was made by the Russian Government to the State Department; but as the American tradeis were violating no law or treaty, the Gt)veriiment could not interfere directly. It did, however, use its influence to effect a remedy. John Jacob Astor was then the central figure of the American fur trade, being engaged extensively in that business in the region of the great lakes and headwaters of the Mississippi, and was the leading merchant of New York City. His attenti(m was called to the matter and he soon devised an effectual remedy. His idea was to concentrate the trade in tiie hands of a company which would conduct it properly, and one of the means of doing this was to supply the Russian posts by contract, and thus cut off one of the most profitable elements of the Pacific tra(h' from the independent traders. His plan was to establish a permanent post at the mouth of the Columbia, which would be the headquarters for 150 HISTOKY OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. a large trade with the interior and along the coast, and to supply this post and the Russian settlements by means of a vessel sent an- nually from New York, which should also convey the fui-s to China and take home from there a cargo of silk, tea, etc. The independ- ent traders would thus ]»e superseded by a company which would estal)lish posts aloui; the Columl)ia, a tiling earnestlv desireil bv the Government, and the cause of iiritation to Russia would l>e removeil. The scheme was heartily endorsed by the President and Cabinet. As has been shown. President Jefferson had been for veal's a warm advocate of American supremacy along the Columbia, and in a let- ter written to ^Ir. Astt)r in later years, said of his i>pinion at that time: ''I considered, jis a great public accpiisition, tlie commence- ment of a settlement in that part of the western coiist of America, and lookeil for\\ anl with gratification to the time ^^"hen its descend- ants had spread themselves through the whole length of the coast, covering it \\"ith fi-ee and independent Americans, unconnected with us but by the ties of ]>lood and interest, and enjoying like us the lights of self-government." How vastly grander is the actual than even this graml conception of one of the greatest statesmen America has produciHl! Mr. Astor organized the Pacific Fur C()m[)auy, himself supply- ing the capital and owning a half interest. To manage operati«nis in the field, he selectetl competent men of much experience in the fur tra«le, and ti» bin«l them to his interests he gave them the other half share in tlie enterprise, divided in ecpial proportiims. Wisdom and prudence marked every step taken, with the exceptiiui of the selection of partnei"s. Among these were several men who had formerly l>elonge«l to, or were employetl by, the Northwest Com- pany. They were of alien 1)irth and sympathies. A\1ien they united with Mr. Astor it was simply as a commercial venture, by which they hin>ee put in irons. He held himself responsible in hi< manai^ement of the Touquin solely to Mr. Astoi-, fi-om whom he had receiveeeu so com- l^letely V^ottleil up: while Captain Thorn was ecpially i)les»seil to be rid of his passengeis, who had been a continual source of annoy- ance during the voyage. A\'hen the Tonquiti arrived off the bar the weather was stormy and the breakei-s rolleil hi^h. He feared to take his vessel acros* an unkninvn l»ar in such a rough sea. This fear was not a j^ersonal one, for he was as Ijrave as he was headstrong, but wjts seen nee- easary to do so. He accordingly ordered Mr. Fox, the tirst mate, to take a whale lK)at, with a crew of one seaman and three Cana- dians, and explore the channel. Although it Wfts almost certain death to make the attempt, Mr. Fox expressed a willingness to undertake it if he were prt)vided with a crew of seamen instead of the gi-een Canadians; but the willful captain insisted upon the exe- cution of his order as originally given. The surging billows soon ensrulfeii the ]x>at and its Ijrave crew, and thev were seen no more. The next day another boat was sent on the same eiTand, and was swept out to sea by tlie tide and cun'ent, and only one of its occu- pants finally reachetl land in safety. Just as darkness chwed down upon the scene, on the second day, the Tonquin succeetleil in cross- ing, and auchoretl just within the bar, where the wind and ebbing tide threateuetl to s^veep her fi"om her precarious hohl ujxin the sands and swamp her amid the rolling breakers. The night was an anxious and distressful one. IrNnug says: " The wind whistled, the sea roared, the gk»om was only broken by the ghastly glare of the ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TREATY. 153 foaming breakers, the minds of the seamen were full of dreary apprehensit)ns, and some of them fancied they heard the cries of their lost comrades mingling with the uproar of the elements." In the morning the Tonquiti passed safely in and came to anchor iu a gopd harbor. On the twelfth of April the partnei"s began the erection of a fort on the south side of the river, leted, Caj»tain Thorn sailed northward to engage in trade with the Indians, and to open that friendly connnunication with the Russian settlements which formed such an important featui'e of Mr. Astor's [)lan. AVith him went Alexander McKay, the only partner who had possessed the good sense to refi'ain fi"om ^^■rangling with the irascil)le ca})tain. He came to anchor in one of the harbore on the west coast of Vancouver Island, and Mr. McKay went ashore. During his ab- sence the vessel wjis suri'oundetl by a host of savages in their ca- noes, who soon swarmed upon the decks. They were eager to trade, but had eN^dently had consideral)le experience in dealing with the whites and were well posted upon the value of their furs, for they resolutely demanded a higher price than Captain Thorn was will- ing to pay. Provoked beyond measure at their stubbornness, Thorn refused to deal with them, whereupon they became exceedingly inso- lent. The Captain at bust completely lost his temper, and seizing the old chief, Nookamis, who was following him about and taunting him \vith his stinginess, rubbed in his face an otter skin he had been endeavoring to sell. He then t»rdere(.l the \vhole l)and to leave the ship, and added })lo\\'8 to enforce his command. The tragic ending of this adventure is thus related by Irving: — When Mr. McKay returned on Iward, the interpreter related what had passed, and begged him to prevail upon the Captain to make sail, as, from his knowledge of the temper and pride of the people of the place, he was sure they would resent the indignity ofl'ered to one of their chie&. Mr. McKay, who himself posseesed 154 HISTOKY OP WILLAMETTE VALLEY. some experience of Indian ebaraeter, went to the Captain, who wag «till pacing the decl( in moody humor, represented ttie danger to which bi^ ha^y act had expoised the veasel, and urged upon him to weigh anclior. The Captain made light of his counsels, and pointed to his cannon and tire-unus as a sufiic-it-nt saf«:^iiard again^ nailed savages. Further remonstrance only provoked taunting replies and sharp altercations. The day passed awav without any signs of hostility, and at night the Captain retired, as usual, to his cabin, taking no more than u^ual prev-aution?. On the following morning, at daybreak, while tht- Captain and Mr. McKay were yet asleep, a canoe came alongside in which were twenty Indians, conmianded by young Shewish. They were unarmetl, their as|>«ct and demeanor friendly, and they held up otter skins, and made signs indicative of a wish to trade. The caution enjoined by Mr. Astor in resj)ect to tlie admisttion of Indians on l;«fttr«I of the sliip, liad been neglected for some time past, and the offi«jer of the watch, perceiv- ing tliose in the canoes to be wilhout weapons, and havins received no orders to tlie contrary, readily permitted them to mount the dei-k. Another can*. The officer of the watch now felt alarmeil. and called to Captain Thorn and Mr. McKay. By the time tliey came on de<'k, it was thronged with Indians- The interpreter noticed to Mr. McKay that many of the natives wore short mantles of skins, and intimated a suspicion that they were secretly armed. Mr. McKay urged the Captain to clear the sliip and get under way. He again made light of the advice ; but the augmented swarn) of canoc!* about the ship, and the numhters still putting off from the shore, at length awakened hi* distrust, and he ordered some of the crew to weigli anchor, while some were sent aloft to make saiL The Indians now offered to trade with the Captain on his own terms, prompted, apparently, by the approaching departure of the ship. Accordinidy. a hurried trade was commenced. Tlie main articles sought by the savages in liarter. were knives; us fast as some were sui)plied they moved off and others su'TC-eeded. By degrees they were thus distriluited about the deck, and all with weapons. The an- clior was now nearly up, the sails were loose, and the Captain, in a load and pre- emptory tone, ordered the ship to be cleared. In an instant a -iznal yell was given; it was echoed on every side, knives and war clubi* were brandished in every direc- tion, and the savages rushed upon their marked victims. The first that fell was Mr. Lewis, the ship's clerk. He was leaning, with folded arms, over a bale of blankets, engaged in bargaining, when he re«-ive"l a deadly stab in the back, and fell down the companionway. Mr. McKay, who was seated on the taffrail, sprang to his feet, but was instantly knocked down with a war-club and flung backwards into the sea, where he was dispatched by the women in the canoes. In the meantime, Captain Thorn made desyierate fight asainsi fearful odds. He was a powerful as well as resolute man. but he came ufion dwk with'Kit weapons. SLewish, the young chief, singled him out a* hi* peculiar prey, and rushed upon him at the first outbreak. The Captain had barely time to draw a clasji-knife, with one blow of which he laid the young savaee dead at hi* feet. Sev- eral of the stoutest followers of Shewish now set ufwm him. He defende«l himself vigorously, dealing crippling blows to right and left, and strewing the quarterdeck with the slain and wounded. His object was to fight hi* way to the cabin, where there were fire-arms ; but he was hemmed in with foes, covered with wounds, and faint with loss of blood. For an instant he leaned upon the tiller wheel, when a blow from behind, with a war-club, felled him to the deck, where he was dis- patched with knives and thrown overboard. While this was transacting upon the quarterdeck, a chance medlev- was going on throughout the ship. The crew fought desperately with knives, handspikes ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TKEATY. 155 and whatever wi>a|)on8 they aiuM seize upon in the nionu-nt of surprise. They were soon, however, overpowered by numbers and niercileHS'ly butchered. As to the seven who had been sent aloft to nuilie sail, they conteniidated with liorror the carnage that was going on below. Being destitute of weaiK)ns, they let theinselvt-s down by the running rigging, In hopes of getting between declvs. One fell in the attempt, and was instantly dispatched ; another receivetl a death-blow in the liack as he was descending; a third, Stephen Weeks, the armorer, wjis mortally wounded as he was getting down the hatchway. The remaining four made ^ood their re- treat into the cabin, where they found Mr. L^'wis still alive, tliough mortally wonncled. Barricading the cabin door, they l)roke holes through the companion- way, and, with muskets and ammunition which were at liand. opened a i)risk fire that soon cleared the tleck. Thus far the Indian interpreter, from whom these particulars are derived, had been an eye-witness of the deadly cimllict. He had taken no part in it and had been spared by the natives as l»eing of their race. In the confusion of the moment he took refuge with the ri-st, in the canoes. The sur- vivors of the crew now sallied forth and dis"harged some of the deck guns, wliich did great execution among the canoes and drove all the savages to shore- For the remainder <)f the day no one ventured to put ott'to the ship, deterred by the eflects of the tire-arms. The night passed away without any further attempt on the part of the natives. When day dawned the 7oiif/uin still lay at anchor in the bay, her sails all loose and flapping in the wind, aneared. Other canoes now pressed forward to boanl the prize; the ut of skins in which to take the meat across to them. In vain he tried to shame the more fortnnate into helping t(-> succor tlieir famishing companions, Imt "A vague and almost su])erstitious teri'or," savs Irving, " had infected the minds of Mr. Hunt's followers, enfeebled and rendered imaginative of horroi's by the dismal scenes and sufferings through which they had passed. They regai'ded the haggard crew, hovering like s|)ectres of famine on the opptisite bank, with indefinite feelings of awe and apprehension, as f something desperate and dangerous was to be feared from them." When the canoe was finished, Mr. Crooks attem})ted to navigate the imj)etuous stream with it, but found his strength une(|ual to the task, and failing to I'cach his companions on the opposite bank, nnide another appeal to Hunt's men. Finally, a Kentuckian, named Ken. Jones, undertook and made the passage, conveying meat to them and tlien came l)ack. Irving, in describing the sad scene, says; — A |)()()r CauHdiiin, liowever, named Jean Baptists Prevost, wlioni faniinf had ri'uderotl wild and dfs])C'rutc', ran frantically about the bankn, after Jones had re- turned, er> iiiji out to Mr. Hunt to send the oanoe for him, and take him from that horrible reKldii of fami!e taken where he could «ct something to ajijieiise his hun^jer immediately. Finding the canoe j)uttinij; of)" withoiit him, he forced himself aboard. As he drew near the opposite shore, and beheld meat roabtin)t before the tire, he Jumped up, shouted, clai)i)ed his hands, and danced In a delirium of joy, until lu' upset the canoe. The |)oor wretch was swept away by the cuvrent and 'Irowned, and it was with extreme dilllcuKy that Delaunay reached the shore. Mi. Hunt now sent nil his nu'n forward cxceptiuK two or three. Fii the evening, he caused another horse to be killed, and a canoe to be nuvde out of the skin, in which lie sent over a further supply of meat to the opposite i)arty The canoe brought buck John Day, the Ken- tucky hunter, -ho came to Join his former commander and employer, Mr. Crooks. Poor Diiy, once so active and vigorous, was now rcfJuced to a condition even more feeble and emaciated than his companions. Mr. Oooks had such a value for the man, on account of his past services and faithful character, that he determined not to (piit him; he exhorted Mr. Hunt, however, to proceed forward and Join tin- party, i.j his presence was all important to the cojuhict of the exp<'dltion. One of the Canadians, Jean Baptiste Dubreull, likewise temalned with Mr. CrtK/ks. The oocnrrpnces at this starvation chmp were on the twentieth of ASTOKIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TREATY. 159 I)eceml)er, 1811, both parties being tni their way up Snake River after having found the (h'soent of that stream impossilde. It wjiH now tlie'u' intention to strike across tlie country for the C(tlunil)ia, as soon as it was practicahh* to [»ened, but the little stranger only lived six days. Mr. Ilimt, after halting one or two days to enable his followers to celebrate, in theii' f(jrlorn wa}', the advent of a new year that had presented to them the (li'and Ronde \'alley, a kind of winter para- dise in the mountains, continued his course to the west. Tlie Rlue Mountain ridge was passed, and January S, 1S12, an Indian village on the Umatilla River close to the mountains wsus reached, where they were hospitably recieived. From there their route was down this stream to the Cohunbia River, thence to the mouth of the latter, arriving at Astoria February lo, 1^<12. Sinc(! leaving Fort Henry, October 10, ISll, out of Mr. Hunt's |)arty,two men had been drowned on Snake River, and poor Michael Carriere, when exhausted, had straggled beliind in Grand Roude Valley, anil was never heard from afterwards. Ramsey Crooks, John Day and four Canadian voyageurs had been left lialf dead on Snaki! River, to remain in the Indian country, die, or reach the Co- lumbia a.s best they could. Eleven men. among whom were Donald McKen/ie, Robert McLellan and the unfortunate John Reed, had Iteeii ted them with bonfires and a night dance, in which they sang the praises of their white friends. Here A8TOK1A AND THK ,IOINT OCCUPATION TUKATY, IGl the four expeditions were to separate, Robert Stuai't to cross the continent by Hunt's route; David Stuart to go up the Columbia to Okinagan; Donald McKenzie to establish a post in the Nez Perce country; and John Clarke to locate one among the Spokane Indians. Of these several expeditions, Robert Stuart, with his pai'ty, includ- ing Crooks and McLellan, reached St. Louis eleven months later, ])earing news to Mr. Astor of his enterprise on the Paciiic Coast. McKenzie's operations were a failure; David Stuart's success was e(pial*ito his most sanguine hopes, and Mr. Clarke's efforts resulted second only to those of Mr. Stuart. On the twenty-fifth of May, 1813, Mr. Clarke started from his post on the Spokane to reach the \\'alla Walla, the ])lace agreed upon as a general rendezvous, where the different expediticms were to meet and return to Astoria with the fui's obtained in their ojie- rations during the past season. On his way up, Mr. C-larke had left his canoes in charge of a Palouse chief, living at the mouth of the river of that name, with whom he found them on his ivtiu'n. He had twenty-eight horsi^ ])acks of furs, and all his men were in high spirits Ijecause of the success that had attended their year's work. While stopping at the mouth of this stream to repair their canoes, in which to embark ujum the river, an incident happened that can not well be passed in silence. Mr. Clarke was a strong disciplinarian, something t)f an aristocrat, and disposed to impress those with wiiom he came in contact with the dignity of his ])res- t'uce ;uid person. He was in the habit of carrying a silver goblet to drink from, and the glittering object carefully guarded by its possessor, had a sti'ange fascination for the superstitious Indians. In all tlieir laud, no such wondrous device had been seen In-fore. I'licy talked to <'ach other concerning it, watched its appearance, .111(1 the care with which the lucky possessor laid it away after using. They believed it to l>e a great medicine, like the spotted shirt and the white ipiilt among the CtiMir d'Alenes, a powi'iiul talisman to shield its owner from harm. One night it le, whom Mr. John Clarke had hanged for theft the sprint; before."* Immediately after this hanffing the |)arty embarked for the mouth of the Walla Walla, where Stuart and McKenzie Avere Avaiting, and from this point they all continued their way down the river, arriving at Astoria, June 12, IHIM, Upon re-assembling at head ([uaiters, the return exjieditions found that, upon the whole, it had been a successful year's labor; that tlie {H'ltry brought in, amounting to (me hundred and Hfty -seven packs, if s(»ld at market rates in Canton, would pay well for the time s[>ent, and reimburse them foi- local losses. In addition to this, they had become well established in the fur-producing regions, and the outlotik was very encouraging except for one thing. War had been raging between (Jreat liritain and the I'nited States for over a year, and they had recently become aware of the fact. On their arrival at Astoria, J. (i. McTavish, with nineteen men, was found c«m[>ed near by, awaiting the ap]tearance of a vessel called the Isaac Todd^ sent by the Noi'thwest C'onij>an\' with stores for tlieru, and bearing letters of mar(|ue, and instructions from the British (loverii- raent to destr(»y everything American found on the Pacific Coast. This latter fact was unknown at Astoria at tiie time, however, but the non-arrival of supplies by sea, combined with the unfavorable news of British success in arms, led the partners to fear fliat none what^^ver would reach them. They, conse(|uently, determined to • TlilB Is iiiKlo(il>t«>dlv liu'orrcct. as Hei-ifN party wan kllli'd nonr BVrt Henry, devpml hiindrcil iiilleH UlHliiiil. Hii>l liy II ioiiilly dlMltnut tribe ul' IiidlaiiM. ? • ASTOEIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION THKATY, 163 abandon the country and start on their return overland the ensuing year, if their misgivings proved well founded. They sold their Spokane fort to McTavish for $848, and then furnished that gentle- man with provisions to enable him to return to the upper country, and, in July, they visited the interior themselves, to gather what furs they could before taking final leave of the country. Three months later, McTavish returned to Astoria with a force of seventy- five TO', n, for the purpose of meeting the vessel that had caused his former visit, bringing, also, the news that her coming to the Colum- bia was for the purpose of capturing Astoria, and to assist the Northwest Company in gaining ascendency on the coa.st. He offered to buy the furs of the Astorians, and, on the si.xteeuth of October, 1813, a transfer of the entire stock, worth at leawt ^''i(>,0(i(», was made for less tlian >^4(>,(K>0. Two months later, on December 12th, the fort wa8 sui-rendered to the English under conunand of a naval officer. Captain Hlack of the Raccoon, when tlie American flag wa.s lowered to give the British colors place, and the name of Astoria was changed to " Fort (leorge." An anuising incident of this trans- fer is related by John Ross CJox: — The IndianB, at the mouth of the (Columbia, knew well ttiut Great Britian ttiui America were distinct nations, and that they were then at war, but were iRnovant of the arrangement made between MeHnrs. McDougal and McTavish, the former of whom Htill continued as nominal chief at the fort. On the arrival of the Raccoon which they quickly discovered to be one of "King (Jeorge's (iKhting ships," they repaired, armed, to tlie fort, and requested an audience of Mr. McDougal. He was somewhat surprised at their numbers and warlike apfiearance, and demanded the object of such an unusual visit. Conconily, the principal chief of the Chinooks (whose daughter McDougal had married), thereupon addressed himin a l<>ngsi)eech, in the course of which ho said that King George had sent a ship full of warriors, iind loaded with nothing but big'guns, to take the Americans and make them all slaves, and that, as they (the Americans) were the first white men who settled in their country, and treated the Indians like good relations, they ha('i resolved to defend them from King (ieorge's warriors, and were now ready to conceal them- selves In the woods close to tlie wharf, from whence they would be able, with their (.'uus and arrows, to shoot all the men that shoidd attempt to land from flie English lioats, while the people in the fort could tire at tliem with their big guns and rifles. This ]>ropo8itlon was uttered with an earnestness of manner that admitted no doubt of itjs sincerity. Two armed boats from (he Raccoon were approaching, and, had the people In the fort felt disposed to accede to the wishes of tlie Iiidiuns, every man in them would have been destroyed by an invisible enemy. Mr. McDougal thanked them for their friendly offer, but added, that, notwithstanding the nations were at war, the people in the boats would not Injure hini or any of his people, and therefore re(|uested them to throw by their war shirts and arms, and receive the strangers as their I'riends. They at first seemed astonished at this answer; but, on assuring llieni, in the must positive manner, tliat he was under no iipprehenslon, they eon- uu Hl!*TOKY OK WILLAMETTK VALLKT. sontetl to give up their weaiions for a few days. They afterwards declared they were sorry fur having roni|)lied with Mr. MfDougal's wishes, for when tliey oh- serveti Captain HIaek, xurrountied by Ijis otHcers and marines. I>r»>ak tlie liottle of port on tlie tlag-statt'. and hoist the HritiHli ensign, after eliangin/ the name of the fort, they reniarke<1 that however lie miglit wisli to eoneeal tite faet, t lie Americans were undoul>le tlu- British, Mr. Hu'it arrivf-il at that fort in the hri^ Pedlar, ami jutlire «»f Iiis astonishiiuMit to learn that Mt'I)oui;al was lut hniirer a partner of the Pai'itie, hut of the Nortliwest, Conij>an\ ; that lie held |Mis.ses- slon, not iiiuler the American, hut under the British, ttajr: and that all in whieh Mr. Hunt was interested on this eoast ha the haiuls of his couutrv's enemies. Mr. Hunt, finally, secured the pape'-s pertainiui; to husi- nesvs trausaetious of the I'aeitie Fur Company from MeDoUiral, and then sjiiletl, April 3, 1814, from the .shore that Inul seemeil to yield only misfortune and disaster in return for the efftuts of himself, and those with wlu»m he was associated. The ne.xt dav. David Stuart MoKenzie. John Clarke and eighty-iive other mendn^rs and employees of the Paeitie Fur Comj)any, started up the Columhia River in their iMiats on their way across the continent, and while pjis.-^inir Wallula, learne«l from the widow of Pierre Dorion, of the massacre of John Roeil and his eight Jts.sociates, among the Snake Indians near Fort Henry. Thus matters remained until the war of l.Sl'J was terminated by the Treaty of (ihent, by 'vhich it was stipulatiil that "all t<'rritory, places juhI jms.sessions, whats<»ev«'r, taken by either party from the <)ther tlnring the war, or which may be tak«'n after the signing of this treaty, shall be re.st<»red without tlelay." The etinunissioners couhl not agree upon a line of division between the pos.s«'ssi(m8 of England and the United States w<'st of the Lake of the W«»ods, so the Oregim question wjis left for further disctKvion. and the C\dinn- bia remaine«l dispute«l territory. Mr. Astor at once applie<1 to the President for restitution of his property under the terms (»f the treaty, sis he not only desired to recover his losses, Itut to resume operations on the ('oluml>ia and cairy out the plan of American «K*cupation which had been so well l»egun. Acconlingly. in Jidy. If^l"), the government notified the British Minister at \Va.shingtou that it woidd immediat*^ly reo('('l'rA'n«»\ TUKATY. K).') tlu' Columhia: Imt tlu' uotlHcjition elicitod n<> official responne from (ircat Britain. For two years no active inwisurcs were taken, and, tinally, in Se{>t«'ni!»er, I. Si 7, the sloop of war Ontario \va.s dispatched to the C(»liniil»ia, conimanded by Captain J. Bioth parties to the cttntroversy !)asing a claim upon each of these foundations. As the claims then put forward reuuiined prac- tically the same until the (piestion was settled in 1S4<> — with a iiiodiHcatitm only in the dir<'ction <»f additional settlements made between these periods— it is well to tletine here the positii)n a.s.sumed liy the contending parties. The I'nited States claimed Oregon under foui' distinct titles: First, as a portion of Louisiana, piu'chased from France in 1803; second, l)y right f)f discovery l)y the Spanish e.\ph)rers — Ferrelo, Aguilar, IVre/, lleceta, B(»dega y Quadra, and others — the benefit of whose discoveries accrued to the United States by the Floi'ida |)urcha.se made in 1819, denying at the same time that Sir Francis Drake proceeihil north of the forty-thinl degree, a point claimed to have Ijeen pre.vitmsly reached by Ferrelo [The Spanish title wa.s not 1H6 IIISTOKV OK WII.I.AMKTTK VAI.I KY. asserted, of eouis**, until after the purelijise, being subsequent to the Hist temporary sts at Astoi'ia, (Jkinagan and SjM>kaue by the Paeitic Fur Company, denying that the sale of those jM)sts, effectwl umler the diu-ess of threateneil capture by a man-of-war, w:is such {is to affect the right of the I'niteil States to the benetits to In- de- riveil from settlements made by her subjects, es])ecially in view of the terms of the treaty of peace. On the j)art »»f (xreat Britain it wa- clainietl that the country 'vas originally discovei*e«l by Sir FraneU Drake, and its coast th«»roughly explored by Captain Cook and Captain Vanc«»uver: that the disc(»very of the Cn, claiming that (iray had not enterert»per, but simply the estuary at its mouth, and that Bi'ouirhton wjt"* the first to actually enter an»l explore the Columbia, and d«-nying that (Jray, who was simply a trad' . couhl acquire discovery rights for his government; and, finally, that ion. since McKenzie luul made an overland jc^urney prior to that of Lewis and Clarke, Fras«*r had built a fort on Fraser Lak^- bt-fon- Astoria w:»s founded, and the Xoithwest Comjiany, having purchasetl at private sale the pro^n-rty of the Pacific Fur Company, then held imssesision of the Columltia ngion by means of settlements at Astoria and other points ah»ng the river. Such were the claims advanci^l by the two natit»ns for potsjession of Oregon, there U'lng n»any undeniable rights and ifpiities on either side. A t«-m)»orarv agreement was affecte d^t-ide^l that Astoria and the other jxists should remain the actual pi-ojH'rty of the Northwest Company, but that nominal possession should be given to the L'niteverland with the annual Mcmtreal express, and enjoined to offer no (»pposition to the formal transfer. Captain Sheriff sailed in the frigate Blossom, and meeting Mr. Prevost in Chile, offei-ed him passage to the Cohnnbia in his vessel, which <-ourte.sy wjus accepted. The ^/^^v.ww <'ast anclioi- at Astoria early ill ( )ctober, and Mi'. Keith surrendere*! formal possession of the jM-operty, retaining, of course, actual p»»ssession and ownership. A • ertificate was given Mr. Prevost, stating that Fort (reorge, im the Cohnnbia, had been duly surrendered to him as representative of the I'nited States; and he gave the officers a written acceptance of the transfer. These formal preliminaries having been cimcliided, the British standard was lowere> then lowered, and tlu' farce was ov«'r. The I'nited States was thus again nominally in possession of Oregon, while the actmil possessors were the agents of th«- Northwest Ctmipany, subjects of Great Britain. Fort George in 1818 was a far different structure from Astoria 1(>H msTOKY OK WII.I.AMKTTK VALLKT. as it e.\ist«Ml wIumi suriviuhTtNl to th»' Xorthw»*.t ("••mpiiny in \><\'\ A stockade of jtiin' logs, rising twrlve feet a)m*\-f the !LT«»un«l, en- con i passed a parallelogram I50x'j5«» U-*-i in diniensinns. Within this were dwellings, storehouses, niag:uines. sh«»|i(*. etr. Tile wall:* mounted two eighte«'n-|>oundeiN, six six-|"»uniler*, four four-jxtund carrona. These reiiiaine«l after the surrender, and F«irt (Tcorge \vji>. |»n»»-ti«-aHy, a* much of a British ])ost as hefore. The two governments still «'ontinue«I to nt'gtttiate on the main ])oint at issue -title to Oregon. Neither would rv>-eile fn»ni the j)ositin l»y su-'h U'^«»r ••cvupatiou during the s])eciiied term. This treaty of joint uci-u|iatiou rvuiaineil in force, liy extension \vith nuitual consent, until the <|Uestion was definitely settled in 1S4<». On the twenty->ee«»nd of Felmiarv. 181W, the State I)e[>artment consummateil negotiations whirli ha«l been in progress for some time, completing the title of the I'niteii States ji.s defined in a previous paragraph. ThU wa.< the signing of a treaty with Spain, l»y which the ProNTnoe of Florida was con- veyed to the United States, including all the rights, claims ami pre- tensions of Spain to any territories north ami east of a line drawn from the soiirce of the .Vrkansjis, north to the forty-s*Tx»nd juirallel, and thence to the Pacific This remained the inmudar}' iK'tween the United States and Mexico, and l»etween the dUputeil laud of Oregon and the Mexican possessions west of the R«j*-ky Mountains. It still continues to he the southern boimdarj- of <>ivgirrlj>fi(iii of the Kort and the Methods of tht IJudKini's Bay Compain/ in be tolerant of each other; ojje must go the wall. When Hrst organized the old company, enjoying chartered ])rivileg«'s and supreme monopoly of a vjist extent of territt>ry, laughed with derision at the idea that a few independent tradei^s could so cond»ine a-; to beccUK' dangerous rivals; but that such wjis tin; fact was tpiickly demonstrated. The Northwest Company began operations on a thorough system, by which it was soon developed into a powerful and wealthy corjK)ra- tion. All its managing agents were interested partners, who natur- ally did their utmost to swell the receipts. In the plenitude of its power it gave em[>loyment to two thousand voyageui-s, wliile its agents penetrated the wildern«'ss in all directions in search of furs. It wjis the pi(»neer of the Northwest. While the chartered monop- oly clung like a burr to its granted limits, the new organization was exploring and taking possession of that \a.st region lying l)etween Lake Superior and the Pacific, from the Missouri to the Arctic Ocean. It Inis }>een sh«nvn how Mackenzie made a journey to the Arctic and another to the Pacific, and how his footstc^jis wert- fol- lowed by Fra.ser and a post established in the extreme W(^st. While the old company wa.s sluggishly awaiting ihe advent of Indians at 70 msTOKV OK WII.LAMKTTK VAI.LKY. thf f«nv posts it had established in cciitral locations, the rival organ- ization sent its aLfcnts out t(» trade with the triUcs far and near. The result was that all the trihes, except those in the inunediate vicinity of the Hudson's liay Company forts, were ijradually won to an alliance with the youni^er and more vi<;orous or<;ani/ation. The collection of furs was so ovei'-stimulate(l that a complete e.\tincti(»n of fur-l»earin<; animals Avas threatenef affairs, and the necessity of taking energetic steps to i'ec(»vt!r the lost ground. Its effoi-ts to do this soon residted in hostile collisions between its representatives and ajients of the I'IvmI company, lead- ing to a state of war l>etween them. The first act of actual Imstilit} , other than mere trade invalry, was conMuitte(l in isoCi, when a trader of tile Hudson's Hay Com[)any was forcibly dejyrived of four hundred and eighty packs (»f beaver skins, and a few m<»nths later of fifty more. Tiie same year anolhei- trader was attacked and robbed of valuable furs by servants of the Northwest Company, and received similar treatment again the following spring. These acts of plun- dering were numerous, and since no law but the law of might existed in the wilderness, there was no redress foi- the despoiled comjtany nor puiashment for the ofTeiiders, since the lattei' were Canadians and their victims citizens of England and not possessed of facilities for securing redress in the courts of Canachi. In twelve years but one case was brought to trial, in 1, when a Huds<)n's Hay Com- pany man wa.s convicted of manslaughter for killing an agent of the other company who was m.'iking an attack u})on him with a sword; and this result was accomplished by the powerful influence of the Northwest ('omj)any in Montreal. In ISI'2, having received a grant of fertile land from the Hud- son's Bay Comjiany, Lord Stdkirk, a man of energy and an enthusi- ast on the subject of colonial emigration, commenced a settlement on Red Kiver near its junction with the Assiniboine, south of Lake Winnipeg. No sooner was this accomidished than the rival com- pany expressed a determination to destroy the settlement, and in THK KIVAL Frn roMPAMKs. 171 tW luitunm of 1814 litt***! out an fxix-rlition for that piirjMtsc at its chief estaltlishiiu'iit, Fort William, on th*- ^hon- of Lake Su|Hi-ior. After harassiiii; the setth-nient for >onie nioiith«i, an attack was nuuhMipon it in June, lsl5, which wa> reputed. Artillery having heen l)iouliip of Colin Koliertson, 'oeinjjj accompanied hy Uohert Semple, G«»vernor of the Hudson's Bay Company territories. In the sprinir <»f I sic, Alexander McDon- nell, a partner of the Northw»*st C»»nipany. collected a strong force with the design of crushing the s^-tth-nient comph tely. After cap- turing the supply train on its way to Re«l IJiver, the invading force came upon (rovernor Semph* anlood. In 1S*21 parliament put an end to this Moody feud and ruinous i'onH)etiti(m l>y consolidating the rival n»nipanies undei- the name of The IIonoral>le Hudson's Bay Company, l»v which was created an organization far more powerful than had eitlier heen before, and Kngland gained a united and |>otent airent for the advancement of her interests in America. The settlement.* on the Red, .\ssinil)oine and Saskatchewan rivers were reneweany took possession of Fort (reorge and «»ther j>osts along the Co- luml)ia, and as it thereafter l)ecame ch>s<-ly woven into the history of this region, a hrief descripti»m of its founding, gr<»wth and meth- ods becomes necessary to a full understamling t»f suhsecpu'ut events. 1 )r. William Barrows gives the follo\ring description of that pow- erful corporation : Its two objects, as set forth Id ita charter, were " for the discover}' of a new pas- 172 IJISTOHY OK \V I I.I.AM KTTE VALLKY. sage into the South Sra, iiini for tlie tindinn of some trjulo for fiii-s, niiiicrals and other (•i)nsi(lrral)l(' fomnioilitics.'" II may ^^•('ll ho sii><|K>('t(!(i tiiat tlu' llrst wa« the fa*'i' anil tlic second the soul of tlie cliavter, which f^rantx to the coinjiany the ex- clusive riftht of the " trade and commerce of all those seas, st^ait^s and hays, riverw, Iake», creeks, and sounds, In whatsoever latitude they shall he, that lie within the entrance of the straits commonly called lludsim Straits," and of all lands horderinj? them not undt-rany other civili/.cd }iovernmciit. This covt-red all territory within that immenHe iiasin from rim to rim, one viltra dip|>inK into the Atlantic and the other looking into the I'acitic. Throujfh tl'is vast, e.vtcnt the com|)any was made for "all lime hereafter, •.•a|iiil)le In law, to have, purchase, receive, possi-ss, enjoy, and retain lands, rents, privileire:-. liherties, jurisdiction, franchise, and heredita- ments ol what kind, nature, or (luality soever they he, to them and their sui-ees- sors." The company held that region a« a man holds his farn>, or iw the great hulk of rial estate In Kn^land is now held. 'I hey could legislate r)ver and jjovern it, houni! only hy the tenor and spirit of l^n);li^ h law, and make war I'ud peace within it; and all i)ersons outside tlu mpauy could he forhidden to " visit, hunt, fre- (juent, trade, trallic, or adventure" therein. For all this, and as a c(»nfession of allejriance to the crown as a dependent <-olony and province, they were^to pay an- nually as rent "two elks and two hiack heavi'rs." Cheap rent that, espi'cially since the kin;; or his a>;cnt must collect it on 1 e urounil of the eonqtany. To dwell in the territory or even ^(o across it would he as really a trespass as if it were done on the lawn of a privati' gentleman in Middlesex county, MuKland. Such were the chartercci ri^ihts of a monopoly that, f^rowin^ holder and more jrraspiu>r, liecame at last continental in sweep, irresistihie in power, and ine.>coral)le in spirit. In \>^-\ the crowji gnuited to this and the Northwest ('omi)any united, and for a term of twenty-one years, tlie exclusive ri>rht to trade with all Indians in liritlsh North .\merica, north .iiif supplies and llic ouIkomik of fm> and peltries from all the immense region lietweeii those lour points. Within the Cunatla.s ami the other provinces they lield the Indian and the I'lu- ropean ei|iially at liay, while within all this vawt unorKani/.ed wilderness, their hand over red and while man was alisolute. \\ lirst the iinijianv could ko^"'''" as it pleased, and wa> autocratic and irn'sponsilile. Kyadi'. mal ii%Mslation in Isii:!, tlie civil ami criminal government of the Camillas was made to follow the com- pany into lands outside their lirst charter, commonly called Indian countries. The (iovernor of Lower Canada liad the appoiutiiiK power of olhcials within those couiilrics hut he did not send in special men; he iippolnlcd those cennectcd with the company and on the grouml. The coni]iaiiy, therefore, had the administration 111 those outside districts in its own hands. Thus the commercial life of the ('an- adas was so dependent upon the Hudson's Hay Company that the (^-overnmcnt could THK KIVAL FIK fOM I'A MKS. 173 lit' C'oiuitcd on to |>i'oinot«^ ilie wislu-w of the compaii.y. In lirit-f, tlic uoveiiiinfut of HritiHli AiiuTimi wiih pnietically the Hu(lnon's Hay ("ompuny, and for all the privl- lejTc and monopoly whioh it enjoyed, wiflioiit seeniin^r to deiiiuiid it, tiuTi wa.n an .'iniiiial |>aynu'nl, if railed for, of " two elks and two l)la< k lieavers." This company tiuis l)ecanie a powerful oruani/.ation. Il had no rival to sliare llie Held, or waste the jtrolits in liliiiiition, or in hloody fends lieyond the rei;ion of law. ( Hxeej)! the eon fsl hetwi-ei. 'I and the Northwest (.'ompany prior to their consolidation.) It e.xtt'iided its lini's, multiplied its posts and airenls, systematized loMunniucation throujrh the immense hunting' jrrounds, 'mi/.cd lime and funds hy im-reased expedition, made many of its factories really i'.; lllications, a nd put tl:e wholi' northern interior under IJrilish rule, and yet without a soldier. Kivers, lakes, mountains and prairies were covered hy its afrents ami trappers. The while and IIk' red men were on most friendly terms, ami the lurch c-anoc and the pirojiue were seen carryinn, in mixed company. Iiotli laces, and, what was iiiore. their mixe To-dav, as a hundred vi'ais airo, the do),' sleil runs out from Winnipeg for it.- solitary drive of live hundred, nr lwi> thousanil, or even three thousand ndles. It glides, silent as a spectre, over these -now lields, and tliront,'!! the solemn, still forests, painfully wanting in animal life. Kilty, seventy, un luin- drctl days it speeds idon^, and as nuiny ni).dils it camps without lire, and liH>ks i to the same cold sijirs. .\t the inter\ cinntt posts the -Icd^re make- a pause, as a ship, haviiifjr rounded ( ','ipe I lorn, heaves to liefore some lone I'acitie islaml. It is the sanu- at the trader's hut or factory as when the sleduemu./s Kramlfalher ueceHsi\e nundter is lliree years liehind li'.ie when it is openey prollts only, and went up to ^4.'")7,.'Wii, while not out' new dollar was j)aid in. In isi'l the company alisorlicd llie Northwest I'ompany of Montreal, on a hasis of value c(iual to its own. The eonsolidale7. One can not hut admire the foresight, com|)ass, policy, lunl ahility with whidi tliose Englisli fur traders moved to gain possession, anyiio;('iii's, s(» often spoken of in (connections with the fiU' eotnpjiiiies, were .i s))eeijil oiitorouth of the fiif tfiuh', and tire (leservino of more than a ])asr:ini;' notice. Irving tlnis (U'scribes them: The voyagcurs may he said to h;i\'e sjirung up out of I he fur trie!", tiaving origin- ally lu'cn employed hy the early l<'rench nu'rchants in their '.rading expeditions through the lahyriiith of rivers and lakes of tic iHtundlcss interior. In llie inter- vals of their long, arduous alid lahorious expeditions, they were wont to pass their time in idleness and revelry aliout the trading posts or settlements; s(|uandering their hard earnings in hcetlless conviviality, and rivalling their tieighhors, the IndiaiiM, in '.ndolent indulgeiicc and imprudent disregard of lln> morr?ular Iturden in which they all join, keepinjj: time with tlieir oars. In the course of years tliey will gradually dis- Mi)pcar; their son^s will die away like the echoes they once awakeiu'd, and the Can- adian voya^eurs will liecoine a forjrotten race, or rememhered amon^ the poetical images of past times, and as themes for local and romantic UHsociations. Tlu- Northwest ('(»mj)any, iu IS'Jl, prior to tlu* c-oiisolidatioii, 'stiiltlislied a post oil tlif north l»aiik of the ( "oliiiiil»ia. st-vcral miles ala.v; he mouth of the Willamette. .\s this was on the |H»iiit named '■' Vaiicoiivei" liy Lieutenant liroiin;htoii, in 17'.**i, the p»»st as elii'istenecj " Foi-t \'aii((»iiver."' In lM*:i, )ii after tl le eoH- )li(lation, the hea(lt|iiartei's of the Hudson's Hay Company was removed from l*'ort (JeorLTc tt) l*\>rt N'aneouver, Iteeanse it possesse( the (h'siralth- features of such an estal>lishmeiit more fully than any other in this whole reirion. It was near the mouth of the Willamette and the efort- the center and natuial convert^iuir point of traj)piui!: partit's comiuir tlown the Cohuulii'i from the vast wihh'rness to the east, or with t!ie aiuiual oNcrlaud e.Kpress from Montreal; from the rich trappiiiir ,iri<»iiiids to the south, or from the upper coa-^t and Piio'ct Soiuid. Agriculturally, the surrouiidiiiiiH were all that coidd l>e desired, to I'aise the lai'Li'e crops (»f r the chief trading jatst, and remained the company'- heaihpnirters until it altandoned this region cutirelv, in |sr..s. huring the next foui' years the company spread t)Ut in all direetiiMis, from (uliforitia \Af Alaska, ami front the I'iu:i||e 17(; HISTORY t)F WILLAMKTTE VALLKY. to the IJocky Mountains. Some idvti c-jin l»r i^ained of its power and nH'tlidds in Orciron from the followinii; desca-iption given by John Dunn, for stxcn \e:irs a el«'rk and trader <»f the company: — l''<>rl S'aiicoiivcr is tlic trniiul mart aiitlons, in grocery, in liardware, ready -matle clothes, oils and paints, ship stores, etc. — are laniUd, at'd from thence they are distrihuted to the various posts of the interior, ami aloim the northern shoies liy sailing vessels, or liy lidals, or paek-horses, as tlu- several naites permit ; lor distribution and trafHc among the natives, oi' for the supply of the eonii)any's servants. In u word. Fort X'aneouvi'r is the grand emporium of the company's trade, west of the Rocky Moun- tains ; as well within the ()icj:on territory as lu'yond it, from California to Kains- tchatka. The tort is in iliesliai I a parallelogram, alioul two hundred and lifty yards long, l»y one hundrey a .sort of wooden wall, made of pickets, or larire lieams, lixed tlrndy in the ground and elosely fitted together, twenty feet hii^li, and strongly secured on the inside liy luittresses. .\t ea'h angle there is a hastion, njouiiling two twelvi'-poiniders, and in the center there are some I'ightecn-pounde.- ; liut from the suhdin'd and pacltle character of the natives, and the long alisenec of all apprehension, these cannon have lieconie useless. The area witlnii is divided into two courts, arouml which are arrangeil ahout forty neat, strong wooden huildings, oiu' story hinh, designed for various purjioses — such as olllecs, apartments for the ( lerks and other ottlcers, warehouses for fui-s, English goods and other commoilitics : workshops for the diU'erent meelianie.s--carpenters. hlacksUMths, coopers, wheelwrights, tir.riers, etc dl of which there is the most diligent and unceasing activity and industry. There is also a school-house and <-liapel, anrs. Al'ier grace has heen said Ihe company hreak up ; then most of the partv retire to the pulilicsittiii;.' room, » .;!led " nachelor's Hall, reading, or telling and listening to stories of their own and others' curious advent- ures. Sometinu's there is a ureat intln.\ of company, consisting of the chief tradv'rs from the outposts, who arrive at the fort on laisiness, and tin n inlanders of vessels. These are gala limes after dinner, and there is a great deal of amusement, hut always kept under strict disci|tlliie and rcirulatcd hy the strictest nroprivty. There a/', or a lack of anecdalf-l»reeil children of the oHlcers and servants of the company, and of many orphan children of Indians who have iieen in the company's enii)Ioyment. They are taught English (Honietiiiies French), writing, arithmetic and geography; imd are suiise(|nently either apprenticed to traders in C/'anada, or Itept in the company's service. The frojit scpiare is the i)lace wliere the Indians and trappers deposit their furs and other irficles, uiul make their sides, etc. There may be seen, too, great numbers of men sorting and packing the various g(K)ds, and scores of Canadians beating and cleaning the furs from tiie dust and ver- min, and coarse hairs, previous to exportation. Si.x hundred yards b«'low the fort, and on the bank of the river, there is a neat village of al)out sixty well-built wooden houses, generally constructed like those within the fort, in wliicli the mecharlcs and other servants of the company, who are, in general, Ciinadians iind Scotchmen, reside with their families. They are Imilt in rows, and present tlie aiijiearance of small streets. They are kept in a nei.t and orderly nuniiiej'. Here tliere is an hos- pital, in widch the invalided servants of the comiiany, and, indt'ed, others wlio may wish to avail themselves of it, are treated with the utmost care. Many of the otflcers of the (U)mpiiny marry half-iireed women. They discharge the several duties of wife and mother with tidelity, cleverness and attention. They are, in general, good housewives; and are remarkably ingenious as needlewomen. Many of them, liesides possessing a knowledge of lOnglish, spt'ak French correctly, and jOTssess other accomj)lishmenls; and lliey sometiines attend their husl)ands on their distant ai d tedious journeys and voyages. 'I'liese half-lneed v omen are of a superior class ; being the daughters of chief traders and factors, and other persons, high in the company's service, by Indian women of a superior descent or of superior personal attractions. Though they j.enerally dress after the Knglish fashion, according as they see it used by the Fjn;j;lisb wives of the superior olticers, yet they retain one peculiarity— the leggin or gaiter, which is nuule (now linit the tanned (leer skin has been sui)ersededi of the finest and most gaudy coloured cloth, beauti- fully ornamented with beads. The lower classes of the com])any's .ncrvanls marry native women, from the tribes of the upper country, where the women iue round- lieiided and beautiful. These, too, generally sjieaking, soon learn the art of useful liousewivery with great adroitness and readiness; and they are encouraged and rewarded in every way by thecomi)any, in their ellbrts to ac(iuire domestic economy anil comfort. These, too, iinitat(>, in costume the dress of the olllcer's wives, as much as the;, can; and from their necessities of position, wliich exposes them more to wet ami drudgery, they retain the moccasin, in place of adopting the low- i|uarfere(l shoe. .Xttached to the fort there is a magnilicent farm, consisting of altout three thousand acres, (»f which lifteen Innwlred acres have already been brought In the highest state of tillnge. It stretches behind the fort, and on both sides, along the bunks of the river. It Is fenced into beautiful corn fields, vegetable fields, orchards, garden and pasture fields, which are lnters|iersed w itii ilaliy Iiouhcs, shepherds' and herdHinen's cottages. It is plai'eil under the nmsl judicious management; and neither expense nor la'iour bas been spared tvis: »ns iit lixcci j)rices), and to tlie isliinds of the Soutliern PaciHe. an«l lo Itritish and Anu'rieaii whalers and to other nierehant ships. They also kwp jw-on-s of woodH'utters employed to fell timber, whieh is s:iw»'' a'mI their <»wn farms, llsli, beef, mutton, pork. tinilnT, ete., at nwirly half the Ameriean pricv. they are likely to enjyross the whole tnide of the I'aeitie. as they do alresidy the trade of the Orepin, esjiecially sinee they eonuiuind all the ports and sjife inlets of the arties leaving \ imcouver are some weeks pre|utrint; for the mountain8 and prairi»-s. The hiaeksniitlis are busily en>faKer man; and they ^leuendly enjoy a ^rand holiday and feast the ni^ht previous to starting.'. Kaeh mat; luis a ivrtain number of horses, sniliclent to carry his e<|uipment. The free tmp|HTs (lenenilly jirovidc their own animals Koth the <-«im|»jtny's servants and the treenien friNjiu-ntly take their wives and families witii them. The women are verj- useful on the ex|H-ditiou, in preparinjr meals ami other n«-i-essaries for their hu.sltand^ d'lrin^ (heir aiiscucc from the camp. In sununer and winter, whether they haNe a s«irt of traveliuj: camp or a (Ixcd resideiu-e. they s«de«'t (he liM-aliticN that mtwt alHHinii in fkir-bearintr iiniiiials. ThoU);h a parly nuiy Im' olili^'ent of necessary supplies. Thus the com|iany an- enaliled toaitpiire a ndnute knowledge of the <-ouidry ami nativt>s, and extend their (M>wer and authoritv over iMith." • CHAPTER \I1. DIPLOMACY AOAIN ENDS IN JOINT OCCll'ATION. Claim of the United Stntt'» t<> the i'tdaiiibid Hirer SpaKimxIic ('lumid- eratioii of the Oregon Qttesfitiii, in Cmnjrt'HK — The JinxKicn I'kdse—- The Monroe Doctrine — Negot'iationx in lS'2^.—ChihnH nf the f'nited States Adrtineed h;/ Mr. Rnnh — The OfipoKuxj Vhi'nnx of Great lirit- ain- Hi pfif of Mr. Rii.'ih .H.-:,,.iicr>> in Edch Other — Emjlainl Rijeetx Anierien'ti (.{fer if the Fiftij-jirst PuralleL and Propoxes the Forty-ninth and Cfdumhia Piver — Hush (fjf'erx the Forty-ninth to the Oeean — liejeeted and the Ncgotiii.'in/i.'^ Terminate — Mr. Gallatin Sent to London in ISi^G— Offer of the C'oitinibia again made hy Fnijland and Hejectrd- The J)o<'trint of Confiyuity — The Spanish Title ax M'ldifed hy the JS'ootka Convention — Trndiny Poxt.<< Deelared not to be Settlements hy Mr. Gallatin, a Ihelaration which Becomes a lioomeranij The Period of Joint Occii^mtinn I ndep'nitely Extended. DrRIX(i all tlu'Hc years the ( h't'ofoM iiiu'stioii \\«s iidt iifj^flcctcd in C'<>iiirn.-i.«. It was spajsniodirally disrusscd, aiiut thoiiirli iiiaiiy th'mirs wen' ])r»>|»os('(l at various tiiiu's, imihiuir was ui-tualiy (loin- t«> proiuotc Vnu'i'lcan interests in Orej^on, unless tlie li-ave of altsenee granted Captain Bonneville he eorisidi-red us an effort in that direction. Durint; these diploniatir neuntiations the I'nited States firnd\ maintained her claim t<> all the riylits, of an\ natiire what>>*M'Vcr, which Spain may have posstssed prior to »he Florida Treaty. She also nrii^ecl that the month of the Colum- hitt wan hei*s Ity the dual i'ii;ht of discovery and settlement; and, therefore, f(»llowinji' the jjeneral rule which had been observed by Kuropean nations in eoU)nizing America, all the country tributary to that river, and itn confluents, wni^ also subject t<^ her dominion. 180 HTSTOKT OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. As the C'oluml»ia ^wtt-ps northward to the fifty-first parallel, it was iirir«'rtinL' of .-i hill "for the oc«Mij>ation of the fVduni- hia, and the r»'<_Mdation of tin* trade with the Intlians in the territn- ries of the rnittHl States"; l»nt, thouirh much dis«*us!<<^l. lM»th then and the ensuinir year, the nieasjire was never pass«*d. Th»*re wen- several plans adv«K'atuted territory, afid another to construct a chain of f«.rt^ acioss the continent, whii-h should forui a hasis of supplies and |>rote<'tion for eniiirrants. The irrvat draw- hack was the lack of eniii.Mants to he su{)i»lied and protect*-*!. The \fississippi N'alley was still hut sjtaiNely settled, and no one thoiit.rht (»f ni«»vin<.' two thousand miles across what was sup)>os«-4l to lie a re!_don of nearly impa>saMe nuiuntains and alm<»st interniinahle deserts, when the rich lands of Illinois, ^Vis^•onsin and Iowa wen- invitin^r them to make tlieir home in thedtmiain of the •• Father »»f AVateiv ■ K>iS!^'2'-\, l*rsumed, were henceforth not to Ik- considert^l as suhjects for colonization hy any I'luropean |^twer." This ♦licitwl a formal proti-st from iHtth England and Husijia. Another «J^ii- DU'LOMACY AOAIN KND.S IN .lOlXT OCCUPATION. 181 iiK'iit, which wius pffuliarly offeiLsive to Kiii^luud, was a paptr sub- iiiitt«'(l to tht* House, on the si.xteeuth of February, l'S24, hy Gen- eral Jes,su|», in which it was |troj>o!»eil to es^tablish a chain of fortn from Council liluffx t«> the Pacific, by which "present protection wouhl Ije alTonhil to our tra«ler>; any force of arms was exceedingly, and properly so, dista>teful to (rreat liritain, and dill much to com}»licate the negotiations which had been already entered into. The ten years' limit of joint occuj)ation had now more than half expired, and it bt-came necessary to apj)oint commissioners to again endeavor to affect a settlement. .Mr. Rush, the American comniissioner, who had ln-en an associate with Mi'. (Jallatin in ai'ianging the treaty of 1 sis, asseit^il that liy the Louisiana title the United States had undisputed claim a> far north as the forty- ninth parallel, since that had Im-cu ivct>gni/.ed Ity the Treaty of I'trecht as the boundary line between the possessions of France and Kngland, and sliotdd jnopcrly be extended to the Pacific, lie also claimed, under the Spanish title, as far north as the sixtieth }iarallel, tlu' acknowledged limit of the Russian possessions, and he declared "the I'iglits thus ac" to the Stony Mountains, should it be earnestly insisted uj)on liy (Jicat Britain, we will cons«'nt to carry it in continuance on the same parallel to the sea.'' 'IMie plenipotentiaries of Great Britain not only declined the 182 lllsTt)UY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. proposals, liut (l('iii»'»louizatiMn in America should !»(' attfiii|»t('il Ity Knmpeaii iiatiou?*. They iir>-L«r of othmization, includini; the reuion on the PaciHe Coast Ivinir lieiwt^-u the fortv- second and Hfty-tirst parallel. They declare*! that Gn-at Britain could not c(»ncede to the rnit»tl Statt-s. a?, the >utT-n*«»r of S|tain. those exclusive i'ii.dits which she had >uccesf*fully iv>i«.te«l when they had been ad\anred hy Spain lierM-lf. and which tht- N«Nitka Conven- tion, in ITlMt, dedareil should not In- aduiitte«l. They al«<» denittl the title hy riijht of discoverv, clainiinir that the «li?<-oven- of the Colund)ia was a pro>jressive one. partiripat«il in nioiv c«»ns]»icuoUsly hy British suhjects than hy Ain»*ri«-ans; tluit even aint. especially since the roast had In-en exploretl prior to that time Ity an official exjteditioii (Captain CiM»k's) of (irvat Britain, and a British sul)ji'ct (Sir Francis Drake) hail pun-hasei! land fr«ini the nativi's oidv a few deimil:tr M-ttlenient»» made hy British sr.l»jects npon that stream, or \i\m'U riv»-iv flo\vin<.r into it (ei-roneo.isly referrinir, perha|*». t«» the establi-hnn-nt on Fraser Lake ) To this tie United States enihassador replii^S at lenirth. asx-rtiug that Gray sailed under the tlat; ami protection of th»* Feileral (iov- ernment, whose rit-hts folh>w«Ml him; that he tva- unaware, and omld not admit the fact, of any prior or «.-onteni)Hiraneou:> iiettlernvnt l»y British subjects on the Colund>ia; that C«"»k hae»-n |«Tvii»^i.-«| l»y Perez, Ileceta and <^>uadra, in his exploration of tlft i>«jist: and dosed by sayinir that " in the opinion uf my :r<»vemm»'nt, the title of the I'nited States to the whole of that coa.-t. from latitude forty- two degrees to as far north as latitude sixty degrees', wa>. therefore, superior to that of (treat Britain, or any other jjower: first, throuirb the jiroper claim of the Inited Stateis l»y dLscovt-ry and settlement, and sec<»n(lly, as now standinir iu the place of S|jiain. and holding in their hands all her title." The British reply tva.* a renewal of the former objections, especially to the SpaiU:>h title. «ptvial strtss Wing DIPLOMACY AGAIN ENDS IN JOINT OCCUPATION. 183 laid on the fact that Enghind never had admitted the exclusive riglitn chiiiued by Spain on the J*aciHc Coast of America, and had specifi- cally denieil and coiubatted them in the Nootka controversy; the voyage of Sir Francis Drake wjis urged us giving England the dis- covery rights prior, even, to the earliest claimed by Spain, the forty- eighth degre«' being placed as the northern limit of his voyage. It was also denii-d that Spain could actjuire title by simply sailing along the c*tast, and not following up her discoveries l»y genuine acts of possession and settlement. The response of Mr. Hush, was a denial that Drake jtroceeded beyond the forty-third j)arallel, and a reminder t<» tin- English plenipotentiaries that, even if all they claimed for Drake were triu-, England was debarred from claiming title through him by the rule laid down by them in the matter (»f Spanish e.\ploiei-s, since the title thus ac<|uired had not Iteeii per- fecte«l by acts of possession and settlement. Hy these successive statements and answers l»oth sides to the (piestion having lieen plainly s«'t forth, the repre-entatives of En- gland, rejecting Mr. Rush's proposition, made another prop<»sal — that the boundary line follttw the fortv-ninth parallel till it struck the Columbia, and then follow down the nuiin channel of that stream to the ov-ean, navigation of the river to be open to both nations. This was submitted, they said, in a ■»}»irit of compromise, though thev considered that in s<» doiiitr thev were departimr lari'elv from the fidl extent of (Jreat Britain's rights. Mr. Uu>li declare«l his utter inal»ility to accept such a pro[tosition, but tliat, actuated by the same str«»ng desire to etTect a c«)mpromise, he would agree to the fortv-ninth i)arallel clear throu<;h to the ocean, statiiii; that this was the extr«'ine limit of his .-luthority. This wjis declined, and a.s neither party would make fin-ther concessions the negotiations came to an end. In lS'Jt'», the att( inpt r-t settle this important question was renewed, ami Mr. (iall itiii. vvaf sent to London, with full jiowers to resume the discussion, 'ihe otTer of tin- forty-ninth i)arallel and the Columbia Kiver was again made by the British Commissioners, with a sop in the shape of a slice of Wi'.shington T«'rritory south of (iray's Harbor and Hood's Canal thrown in. Mr. Callatin renewed Mr. Rush's offer of the forty-ninth parallel, adding free navigation « © • (£> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // *^, V c^^ «^. his enij)loyers on Green Rivt r. General Ashley, having made a fortune, was then ready to retire from active participation in the business. He there- fore sold his interests in the llocky Mountain Fur Company to William Sublette, Jedediah S. Smith and David .lackson. Smith again started for California in the spring of 1H2(), to rejoin the party he had left thei'e, of whose success he and his partners enter- tained high hopes. It was his purpose tojnake a thorough inspec- tion of the gold placers, tra[) through the Sacramento Valley, and with his whole party return to Green River to participate in the annual meeting the following summer. In his journey he passed as far south as the Colorado River, and, at some point on that stream, his party was attacked by Indians, who killed all except Smith, Turner and Galbraitli. Those three escaped to Mission San Ga- briel, and, notwithstanding their forlorn and distressed condition, were arrested as filibusters by the panicy Mexicans and sent to San Diego. At that point there happened to be several American ves- sels, whose officers signed a certificate that Smith was simply a peaceful trader and possessed a passport h'om the Commissioner of Indian Affairs of the United States. The certificate bears date of December 20, 1820, and was potential to procure the release of the [)risoners. He then proceeded to hunt for the men he had left the year before, and found them in camp on the x\m<^rican River, in the vicinity of Folsom, their residence there leading to the bestowal of that title upon the stream. It was his purpose to r.iturn by way of the Columbia River, but that season was one of unusual snows and ftoods, and he was unable for a long time to leave the valley. His movements are somewhat uncertain, but are partially revealed in the following letter, written by him to J"'ather Duran. The 11)4 H18T0KY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Meximiis were uneasy ahoiit the intentions of this party of armed Americans, and the wortliy Father wrote liim a letter asking for information. Smith rej)lie(l: — Hkvkhkxd Kathkk.— 1 iiiuhMHtiiiul, through thenieo we are, as some of the Indians have heen at tlie luiHyion and informed you tiuit there were certain wliite people in the country. We are Americans on our Journey to the lUver Columbia ; we were in at the Mission San (ial)riel in January last. I went to .San Diefjoand sjiw the general, and pot a passjjort from him to pass on to that place. I have made several efforts to cross the mountains, but the snows being so deep, I could not succeed in getting over. I returned to this place (it l)eing the only point to kill meat), to wait a few weeks until the snow melts so Hint I can go on ; the Indians here also being friendly, I consider it the most safe point for me to remain, until such time as I can cross the mountains with my horses, having lost a great many in attem]>ting to cross ten or fifteen days since. I am a long ways from home, and «■.. nnxious to get there as soon as the nature of the case will admit. 'Jur situation is «iuite unplea.sant, l)eing destitute of clothing and most of the necessaries of life, w ild meat beingour principal .subsistence. 1 am. Reverend Father, your strange but real friend and Christian brother. " J. S. SMITH. May 19th, 1S27. Soon after this correspondence Smith started nortliward, crossing to the coa.st in the vicinity of Russian River. He continued along the coast to the Umpciua, and ^vhile ferrying his effects across the stream on a riidely constructed raft, his party wa.s attacked by Indians, witii whom they were holding friendly intercourse, and all but three were slain. Smith, Daniel Prior and one of the Indians were on the raft at the time of the attack, and when the signal yell was given the savage sprang into the water Anth Smith's gun in his hand; but he never lived to enjoy his prize, for Smith seized his companion's rifle and buried a bullet in the Indian's brain the in- stant his head appeared above water. The two men landed on the opposite side of the stream and succeeded in making their way to Vancouver, where they received a warm and sympathetic welcome. The officers of the Hudson's Bay Company would have done their utmost to have ruined his business had he come into their field with a band of trappers ; but one in his pitiable condition — his followers massacred and his furs and accoutrements i)lundered — could only excite their deepest sympathy. A few days later a third man made his appearance, more forlorn, if possible, than the others. This was Richard Laughlin, who was in camp at the time of the attack, and had seized a burning brand from the fire, with which he rained FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY TIIK AMKKRA.V.S. 195 scorching blows upon the nuked Uodics of liis jissaihints until he cleared a passage for himself and escaped. It vva.s deemed necessary hy the officers of the company to chas- tise the Indians who had l)een guilty of this unprovoked outrage, as a warning to other trihes who might fi-el encouraged to pounce down upon unwary bands of trappers; besides, the furs stolen were exceedingly valuable and ought to be recovered. It happened that Governor Sim])S(»n was at Fort Vancouver at the time Smith arrived in such a forlorn condition, and he sent out a party under "'' )mas McKay, to jiunish the Indians and recover the captured propci ty, l)oth as a necessary step to maintain the company's authority and as an act of courtesy to the despoiled trader. Accounts ' jjy tis to the degree of punishmfnt inflicted, but at all events the fiu's \\ ere recovered and conveyed to Vancouver, and since he could noi cairy them, havinj^ no means, and since the company, from a business point of view, could not afford to provide him with facilities for caiTying on opposition to it, he sold the whole lot to the company for $40,000. They were, to be sure, worth more in St. Louis, but under the cii'cumstances, this was a fair price for them on the Columbia. The most detailed account t)f this incident is given by Rev. GiLstavus Hines, who received the facts from Dr. McLoughlin in person. Gray's History of Oregon, a rabid anti-Hudson's Bay Company volume, seriously (piestions the correctness of these state- ments. It says: — The property was recovered from the Indians by giving them presents of blank- ets and powder, and such things as the Indians wished, a.s stated to us by a Frencli- man, a servant of the company, wlio was one of McKay's party tiiat went to get the furs. They found no bodies to bury, and had no fight witli the Indians about the projMirty, as stated by Mr. Sniitli, also. But, as the Hudson's Bay Company tells the story, through Mr. Hines, they spread terror throitf/h the tribes. * * * Mr. Hines says his Umpqua party returned in triumph to Vancouver! And well they raight, for they had made the best season's hunt they ever made in getting those furs and the property of Smith, which paid them well for the expedition, as there was no market for Smith, except in London, through the hypocritiml_ kind- ness of Mr. Simpson. By this time Mr. Smith had learned all he wished to of this company. He preferred giving them his furs at their own price to being under further obligations to them. Mr. Sublette, Mr. Smith's partn<;r, did not speak as though he telt under much obligation to Mr. Simpson or the Hudsons Bay Com- pany, which was not long aftc- the transaction referred to. I do not know how the company regard these sta.tements of Mr. Hines, yet I regard them as true so far as Mr. Hines is concerned, but utterly false as regards the company. * * * According to the testimony given in the case of the Hudson's Bay Company v. United States, the amount of furs seized by the company at that time was forty 190 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. packs, worth at the time $1,000 each, besides the animals and equipments belonging to the party, a larfie portion of wliich was given to the Indians to compensate them for the services rendered tlie company in destroying Smith's expedition and killing his men." It is a sufficient refutation of the above to state that the author is a nion(»nianiae on the sul)jec't of the Hudson's Bay Company and the Catholics, resultinir from the religious struggle between rival missionary establishments, with one of wliich lie was connected. No sin is too black or. crime too heinous for him to charge to the score of his old opponents. It is true that it was the company's policy to overbear all oj^position; that all Indians over whom they exercised control were strictly enjoined from dealing with in- depen! will of many of them, or justice from the Government, but had lost him the friendship of his former fellow- officers of the IIudsf)n's iJay Company. It details (piite minutely the incident which is now under eonsideration, and it will be ob- served that the Doctor's version differs somewiiat from that of Hines or Cxray in several particulars, especially in regard to the ([uantity and value of the furs recovered. This posthiunous paper has been published in full in the " Transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Asso- m 198 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ciation,"' and will be frequently quoted from in the succeeding pages. That portion referring to the Uiup(iua nia-ssacre is as follows: — One night in Aujjust, 1828, 1 wus surprised by tlie Indians malting a great noise at the gate of tlie fort, saying they had lirouglit an Anieriwin. The gate was ojiened, the man came in, but was so affected lie could not speak. After sitting down some minutes to recover himself, he told he was, he thought, the only survivor of eighteen (18) men, conducted by the late .ledediah Snath. All tlie rest, he thought, were murdered. The party left San Francisco bound to their rendezvous ■ the Salt Lake. They a.scended the Sacramento Valley, l»ut finding no opening to cross the mountains to go eiust, tliey bent their course to the coast, whicii they reachetl at the mouth of Rogue River, then came along the beach to the Jmpqua, where the Indians stole their ax, and as it was the only ax they had, and whicli they absolutely refjuired to make rafts to cross rivers, they took the chief prisoner and their ax wa.s returned. Early the following morning. Smith started in a canoe with two (2) men and an Indian, an.i left orders, as usual, to allow no Indians to come into camp. But to gratify their passion for women, the men neglected to follow the order, allowed the Indians to come into camp, and at an Indian yell live or six Indians fell upon each white man. At the time, the narrator, Black, was out of the crowd, and had just finished cleaning and loading his rifle: three (3) Indian.') jumped on him, but he shook them off, and seeing all his conira«les struggling on the ground and the Indians stabbing them, he fired on the crowd and rushed to the woods pursued by tlie Indians, but fortunately escaped ; swam across the Umptiua and [went] northward in the hopes of reaching theColum- bia, where he knew we were. But broken down by hunger and misery, as he had no food but a few wild berries whicli he found on the beach, he determined to give himself up to the Killimour, a trilie on the coast at Cape Lookout, who treated him with great humanity, relieved his wants and brought him to the Fort, for which, in case whites might again fall in their power, and to induce them to act kindly to them, I rewardeil them most lllierally. But thinking Smith and his two men might have escaped, we made no search for them at breali of day the next morning. I sent Indian runners with tol)acco to the Willamette chiefs, to tell them to send their people in search of Smith and his two men, and if they found them to bring them to the fort and I would pay them ; and also told them if any Indians hurt these men we would punish them, and immediately equipped a strong party of forty (40) well armeo men. But as the men were embarking, to out great joy, Smith and his two men arrived. I then arranged as strong a party as I could make to recover all we could of Smith's property. I divulged my i)lan to none, but gave written instructions to the officer, to be opened only when he got to the Tnipqua, because if known before they got there, the officers would talk of it among themselves, the men would hear it and from them it wouUl go to their Indian wives, who were spies on us, and my plan would be defeated. The plan was that the officer was, as usual, to invite the Indians to bring their furs to trade, just as If nothing h.id hai)pened. Count the furs, but as the American trappers mark all their skins, keep these all separate, give them to Mr. Smith and not pay the Indians for them, telling them that they belongetl to him; that they got them by murdering Smith's people. They denied having murdered Smith's people, but admitted they l)ought them of the murderers. The officers told them they must look to the murderers for the payment, which they did ; and as the niuulerers would not restore the property they had received, a war was kindled among them, and the murderers were pun- ished more severely than we could have done, and which Mr. Smith himself admitted, and to be much preferable to going to war on them, as we could not dis- FAILUKK AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AM?:RICANS. 199 tinguish the innocent from the guilty, wlio, if they chose, might fly to the mount- ains, where we could not find them. In this way we recovered property for Mr. Smith to the amount of three thousand two hundred dollars, witiiout any expense to him, and which was done from a principle of Christian duty, and as a lesson to the Indians to show them they could not wrong the whites with impunity. Smith's report of th(^ excellence of tlie region to the south as a trup2>iiig ground aroused the company to the importance of reaping the benefit of the American trader's enterprise. Accordingly, two expeditions were sent out in different dii'ections to trap ov^er the field Smith had explored. It luis been said that the service of guides to these new beaver streams was part of the price paid by him for the recovery of his furs and traps; but a positive statement on that point is impossible. One party, consisting of forty men, completely efiuipped for a year's absence, started southward, led by Alexander Koderick McLeod, and guided by Turner. Among them were some of the men who had come out ^o Astoria Avith the Pacific Fur Com- pany, and had remained here in the employ of the Northwest Com- pany and its successor. These were Etinne Lucier, Joseph Gervais, bc)th well known to the early pioneers, iVlexaiuler McCarty, William Canning and Thos. McKay, whose father perislied in the Tonquhi. On their journey s(juthward they bestowed several of the familiar names of Southern (Oregon, such as "Jum])-off-Joe," " Rogue River," and "Siskiyou Mountain." The first was so named because of an adventure which happened to Joe McLoiighlin, vson of the Chief Fac- tor. The second was called "La Rivier (h:* Caipicain," because the Indians stole some of their traps and hoi'ses, and gave them much trouble. The last received its title because an old white, bobtailed horse, belonging to Jean Baptiste Pairroult, was stolen while they were camped on the mountain, "Siskiyou" meaning "l)obtail" in the patois French of the Canadian tra])pers. McLeod's party met with consideral)le su'-cess; but they were snowed in, early in the winter, on tlu^ banks of a tributary of the Sacramento, lost their horses, and were unable to get out of the mountains with the large packs of furs and traps. In this emergency, McKay, McLoughlin and Pairroult started on foot ^.>v ^" • jouver, to procure horses, and after much hardship and s:..itMing reacluHl headipiarters. McLeod, however, unable to procure food for his men, did not wait for the expected relief, but cached his lurs and traps, and also made his toilsome way to Vancouver. The cache was made near the eastern 200 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY, base of Mount Slia-sta, wliicli they called "■ Mt. McLoughliu." When the relief party arrived at the deserted camp, the following spring, it wa.M found that the .snow and rains had caused th^ I'iver to flood its banks, and the furs had become wet and spoiled. The stream was ever afterwards known among the trappers as " McLeod River," the name it still V>ears in pronunciation, though the orthography has been changed to " McCloud," The reason for this is, that in sound the two names are very similar, and that Ross McCloud, a very worthy and well-known gentleman, resided on the stream in an early day, though not for a (piarter of a century after it rt^ceived its baptism of "McLeod," Care should be taken by all map makers, historians, and writers generally, to adhei-e to the original orthography. The other party referred to was led by Peter Skeen Ogden, and was accompanied by Smith. They, passed up the Columbia and Lewis, or Snake, rivers, to the source of the latter, where Smith left them and proceeded to the general rendezvous of his company on Green River. Jgden continued southward un; II he reached the Hum- boldt. That stream of many titles was known among the American trappers as " Mary's River," and among the Hudson's Bay [)eople as " Ogden's River," its jiresent name having been bestowed upon it by Fremont, who had sought through that region in vain for the fabulous " Buena Ventura." Ogden passed down the stream to the "Sink," and then crossed the Sierra Nevada to Sacramento Valley through Walker's Pass. He trapped along the Sacramento, and continued northward until he reached Vancouver, sometime in the summer of IS'JU, with a valuable lot of furs. When Smith appeared at the Green Ri\er rendezvous with the tale of his manifold fortunes, he was as one risen from the dead, as his partners, having received no tidings of him for two years, supposed him to have perished. In 1880 he disposed of his interest in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, and the fidlowing year was treacherously killed V>y In- dians, while digging foi* water in the dry bed of tlie Cimeron River, near Taos, New Mexico, and was l)uried there by his companions. The second party of American trappers to enter Oregon wjis that. of Major Pilcher. They left Green River in 1828, and passed along the western base of the Rocky Mountains to Flathead Lake, where they wintered. In the s^jring they descended Clarke's Fork and the FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 201 main Columbia to Colville River, up which tliey ascended to its source and started on their return eastward. Gray says: "This party of Major Pilcher's were all cut off but two men, besides him- self; his furs, as stated by himself to the writer, founle jjeople — fed, cared for and guided on their way by them. Bonneville and his two companions were kindly received at Fort Walla Walla by Mr. P. C. Pambrun, who, with five or six men, was in charge of that station at the mouth of the Walla Walla River. This Hudson's Bay Company's representative was a courte- ous, affalde host, but when asked to sell the Captain supplies that would enable his return to the Rocky Mountains, said: "That worthy superintendent, who had extended all the genial rights of hospitality, now suddenly ajssumed a witliered-up a.spect and demeanor, and observed that, however he might feel disposed to serve him personally, he felt bound by his duty to the Huds(m's Bay Company to do nothing wliich should facilitate or encourage the visits of other traders among the Indians in that part of the country." Bonneville remained at the fort but two days longer, for his desti- tute condition, combined with the lateness in the season, rendered it necessary for him to return inuuediately ; and he started on the back trail with his Nez Perce guide, and finally reached the point of general rendezvous for his various expeditions. This is a true state- ment of the position assumed by the Hudson's Bay Company; its agents would not themselves, nor would they permit the Indians under their control to deal with or in any manner assist opposition traders; but that Bonneville traversed the (30untry in safety with but three companions, after the company was aware of his intention to return and found a rival establishment on the Columbia, is convinc- ing evidence that assassination was not one of its methods of over- coming competition, however much such charges umy be reiterated by its enemies. In July, 1834, Bonneville started on a second expedition to the Colum.,1^, with a formidable number of trappers and mountain men, well equipped, and with an extensive stock of goods to traffic with Indians. He still contemplated a restoration of American trade in this country, and designed establishing a post for that purpose in 204 TdSTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. the Willamette Valley. This time he passed the Blue Mountains by way of Grand Ilonde Valley and the Umatilla River, and upon his arrival at tlie mouth of that stream, was surprised to tind the natives shunning him. They ran from his men, hid themselves, and when intercepted, refused to have an^'thing to do with the Ameri- cans. Not a skin, a horse, a dog, or a fish, could he obtained fi'om them, having l)een warned l»y the Hudson's Bay Company not to traffic with these new comers. It now seemed a question of imme- diate evacuation or starvation, and Bonneville decided to abandon his attempt at joint occupancy. Once more he turned his back upon the Columbia and left the English company in undisputed possession of the field. A contemporaneous effort was made by Nathaniel J. Wyeth, a Boston merchant, ^^'ith eleven men who knew nothing of trapper- life, he crossed the plains to Humboldt River, with Milton Sublette, in 1832. From this j)oint the twelve pushed north to Snake River, and by way of that strt am to Fort Vancouver, where they arrived on the twenty-ninth of October. Mr. Wyeth had his whole fortune invested in his enterprise, and had brought with him a large stock of goods, such as were used in the' Indian trade. He was received with great hospitality by Dr. McLoughlin. The next spring he left for the East, a financial bankrupt, only two of his followers accompanying him. It does not appear that the company's officers contributed in any way to produce this result; but if they did not, it M-as simply because it was unnecessary to do so. Had not natural causes, the chief of which were the wrecking of his supply ship which had been sent around Cape Horn, and his utter ignorance of the business of fur trading, led to his failure, the company would undoubtedly have protected its interests as it did upon his next venture two years later. Arriving in Boston, Mr. Wyeth organized " The Columbia River Fishing and Tiading Company," with a view of continuing operations on the Pacific Coast under the same general plan that had been cmtlined by Astor, adding, however, salmon fish- ing to the fur trade. He dispatched the brig Mary Dacres for the mouth of the (Columbia, loaded with supplies and implements needed in his pi'oposed undertaking. She had on board also supplies for the Methodist Mission, to be spoken of hereafter. With sixty ex- perienced men, Mr. Wyeth himself started overland in 1834. Near FAILUKE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 205 the headwaters of Snake River he built Foit Hall, as an interior trading post, the name ))eing that of one of his partners. Here he left twelve men and a stock of goods. II(^ then pushed forward to the Columl)ia and erected a fort on Sauvie's Island, j't the mouth of the Willamette lliver, which he called " Fort Will iams," in honor of another partner; and again the Amei-ican flag \va^•ed over soil west of the Rocky Mountains. The ofticers of the co.npany again received him with much hos|»itality, and though they continued to treat him with courtet^y, this did not prevent them from taking the steps necessary to protect the company's interests. Fort Boise was esta) dished as an opposition to Fort Hall, and drew the bulk of the trade of the Indians of Snake River. On the Columbia, Wyeth found that the natives were so completely under the conti'ol of the company that he could establish no business rehitions with them whatever. In two years he was com})elleil to sell all his possessions, including Fort Hall, to the rival company, and abandon this second effort at joint occupation. To this result the American Fur Coin- [)any and Rocky Mountain Fur Comj)an}' largely contributed by conduct towards Mr. Wyeth that was neither generous nor honor- able, and it was linally, with a sense of gratification, that he sold Fort Hall to the British Company, and thus gave them an im[t()r- tant post in the very heart of the trapping grounds of his unpatriotic and unscrupulous countrymen. Dr. McLoughlin's account of Mr. Wyeth's venture, as given in the document previously spoken of, is as follows: — In 1832, Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth, of Cambridge, near Boston, came across land with a parly of men, but as the vessel he expected to meet here with supplies was wreclted on the way, he returned to the East with three (3) men. The remainder joined the Willamette settlement and got supplies and were assisted by the Hud- son's Bay Company's servants, and to be paid the same price for their wheat — that is, three shillings sterling per bushel, and purchase their supplies at fifty per cent, on prime cost. In 1834. Mr. Wyeth returned with a fresh party, and met the vessel with supplies here, and t,uirted with a large outfit for Fort Hall, which he had built on his way, and in 183fi, he abandoned the business and returned to the States, and those of his men that remained in the country joined the settlements and were assisted as the others on the same terms as the Hudson's Bay Company's servants, and in justice to Mr. Wyeth, I have great pleasure to be able to state that as a rival in trade, I always found him open, manly, frank and fair, and in short, in all his contracts, a perfect gentleman and an honest man, doing all he could to support morality and eueouragiug industry iu the settlement. 206 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. In 1835 the two rival American companies were consolidated as " The American Fur Company," Bridger, Fontenelle and Dripps being the leaders. The retirement of Bonneville, and the sale of Fort Hall by Mr. Wyeth, left oidy the consolidated company and a few "lone traders" to compete with the English corporation. For a few years longer the struggle was maintained, >)Ut gradually the Hudson's Bay Company absorbed the trade imtil the American trappers, so far as organized effort was concerned, abandoned the field. CHAPTER XIV. FOUNDATION AND PROGRESS OF THE MISSIONS. Missionaries Introduce a New Element into the Oregon Question — The Fhxtheads send Messengers to St. Louis to Procure a Bible — Jason Lee and others sent by the Methodist Boards of Missions — They iMcate in the Willamette Valley — Their IHan of Operations- — Sickness at the Mission and Hostility of the Indians — Parker and Whitman sent by the American Board — Parker''s Triumphal March — He Re- turns Home and Publishes a Book — Mr. and Mrs. Whitman — Whit- man Takes a Cart as Far as Fort Boise — Missions Founded at Waiilatpu and Lapwai — Progress of the Missions of the American Board — Mission Founded at The Dalles— Advent of the Catholics — A Religious War at Once Begins — A Few Sample Incidents — Ef- fects of the Two Forms of Worship upon the Natives. THE opening wedge for American settlement and occupation of Oregon, which was the new and decisive factor time intro- duced into the Oregon Question, was the Protestant Missionaries. In despair of coming to an amicable agreement, the plenipotentiaries of England and the United States, in 1827, had continued indefi- nitely the treaty of joint occupation, hoping that something would turn up to put a new phase upon the question; and in less than ten years their expectations were fully realized, but in a manner little dreamed of by the most astute of them all. Military posts were thought of, emigrants were thought of, fur traders were thought of; but no one seemed to have thought of the earnest and self-abnegat- ing missionary — that is no one but the aborigines, whose rights and preferences had not been considered by either party to this long controversy. From licwis and Clarke the Indians of the Columbia first learned of the white man's God. They were told that the Great Spirit wor- 208 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. shi))('(l by their visitors luul made of them a powerful nation, given tht'Ui hooks, y their trib(^ to proceed to St. Louis, which they believe cultivate the ground and live more comfortably than they do by hunting, and as they do this, teach them religion ; that the Willamette aflbrded them a fine field, and that they ought to go there, and they would get the same assistance as the settlers. They followed my advice and went to the Willamette, and it is but justice to these pioneers to say that no men, in my opinion, could exert themselves more zealously than they did till 1840, when they received a large rein- forcement of forty (40) or more persons ; then the new-comers began to neglect their duties, discord sprang uyt among them and the mission broke up. The location chosen was on the banks of the Willamette, some sixty miles above its mouth and ten below the site of the present city of Salem. They began the erection c»f a log house, H2xl8 feet, and so eager were they to begin their labors that they took posses- sion of it on the third of November in an uncompleted conf''..[ n, and received Indian pupils before the roof was finished. TLeir re- lations with the people at Vancouver were the most friendly and i •I'i 210 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. cordial. Twenty-one persons were baptized at the fort by Jason Lee oil the fourteenth of December, seventeen of them children; and he received a donation of twenty dollars to aid in his mission- ary work. They were viewed by the officers of tlie conn)any solely in their character as missionaries, their nationality and creed not beiiiii' considered ; Jmd as siu-h they received hospitable treatment and hearty encouragement in a work which was deei.ivd beneficial. They proposed not only to teach religion to the Indians, bnt to teach them to till the soil and to do other useful and productive labor, by means of which their moral, mental and physical condi- tion might be elevated. Realizing that the plastic mind of youth is the easiest moulded, they opened a school for children, and fur- nished them a house, where they could learn to read, ^vorship God and till the soil. To do this recpiired food lor their support; and it became necessary ft»r them to embark in farming in order to pro- duce it. This they l)egan the following spring, and their first harvest consisted of two hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes and a ([uantity of wheat, barley, oats and peas. To this they added six barrels of salmon, procured fi'om the Indians. In September, one year after their arrival, the first of a series of misfoitunes overtook them. An intermittent fever became prevalent, and foui' of the children died. The Indians had been watchintr their movements \\'ith considt*ral>le interest, and these sad occurrences had a powerful effect upon their superstitious natures, causing them to view with distrust the place where the Great Spirit Avas y a companion. He gave vent to his wrath against the "white medicines" by crossing the river and killing several of his own race, presumably his wife's relations. During the fall an addition. l(»x;5"j feet, was l)uilt to the niissi(m house, and the close of the yeai- found them comfortably housed, with a suffi- cient supply of provisions and only ten jmpils under their charge, while the Indians generally entertained serious doubts of the ad- vantage of having them theiv at all. The American Uoard dispatched Kev. Sanuiel Parker and Dr. Marcus Whitman in the spring of lS;i;i, as a pioneei" committee to FOUNDATION AND l'KO«BESS OF TIIK MISSIONS. 211 examine the field and select suitable locations for missionary work. They joined a party of the American Fur Company, and ac- companied them to the grand rendezvous on Green Rivei-, where they encountered a band of Nez Perce Indians who had come across the mountains to trade with the trappers, with \\'lu)ni the tribe was on terms of wa»*mest friendship. Among the Nez Perces was a young chief who was a most ardent friend of the Americans. He possessed great eloquence in debate, and was named "Lawyer" by the whites, because of his forensic efforts. With tliis chief the missionaries had a consultation, and resolved to establish at least two missions. Accordingly it was agreed that Dr. Parker would continue the journey across the continent for tlie pui'[)ose of e.xplora- tion, so that suitable locations might be selected; he was then to leave a letter of advice witli the Nez Perces to be given to Whit- man the next year, and return home V)y sea. Tliis was decided upon because the peculiar characteristics of the two uwn were such as to prevent cordial co-operation. Dr. Wliitman was the very soul of energy and devotion to duty, caring nothing for appearances or the opinion of others if they stood between him and the object to which he had v. He Ijeld religions services in several places, and to a degree indueteil Lis eager neophytes into the mysteries of the white man's religion. He reached Fort Walla Walla on the fifth of October, reeeiving a cordial welcome from P. C Pambrun, the gentleman in charge. A few days later he passed down the Columbia in a boat, {\nd during the winter enjoyed the hospitalities of Dr. McLoughlin a' Vjuicouver. In the spring he returned east of the mountains and miu\e c journey through the Nez Perce, Spokane and Colville countries, after which he embarked from Vancouver for the Sand- wich Islanils, and thence for home, ' iriving in 1837. He soon after published an account of liis travels, which was of special value at that time because of the deep interest the people were beginning to take in the ( )regon Question. Dr. A\'hitman, Avith his two Indian companions, reached Rush- ville, N. v., his home, late on Saturday night, and his presence there. insteanishment and joy. During the winter all his an'angements \k^ere made, including his maiTiage in February, 1836, with Miss Nar- cissa Prentiss, daughter of Stephen H. Prentiss. Mrs. Whitman was a woman of refined nature, rare accomplishments of voice and manner, of connnanding ]>resence, firm in purpose and an enthu- siast in the line of her accepted duty. In this cause her deepest sympathies had been enlisted, and she cheerfully yielded all her fair prospects among friends and kindred, and devoted her life to isolation in a coimtry so far away that the very name conveyed to the mind a sense of loneliness and mystery, and where a martyr's irrave wjis awaiting her. She was born at Pittsburg, N. Y., March 14. 18(18, and v/as therefor^ Vmt thirty-nine years of age when merciless and ingrate hands crowned with her death the sacrifice of her life. Marcus Whitman, M. D., was born September 4, 1802-, at Rusliville, X. Y., and at the age of forty-five offered up his life on the altar of duty. These t^vo, accompanied by Rev. H. H. Spalding and wife, a lady of much firmness of character and devo tion to duty, and W. H. (iray, set out on their westward journey under the escort of a pai'ty of the American Fur Company. With FOUNDATION AND PROGRESS OF THE MISSIONS. 213 the party were Major Pilcher, an independent trader previously alluded to, and Sir William Drummond, an English nobleman traveling under the alias of " Captain Stewart " and accompanied by a companion and three servants. The missionary party took with them three wagons, eight mules, twelve horses and sixteen cows, besides farming utensils, blacksmith and carpenter tools, seeds, clothing, etc., to enable them to become self-supporting At Fort Laramie all the wagons but one were abandoned, but Whitman in- sisted upt)U taking this one for the ladies to ride in ; the trappers also concluded to try the experiment of wheels in the mountains, and safely took a small cart to the grand rentlezvous on Green Kiver. Here the missionaries met Nathaniel J. Wyeth on his return home from his second unfortunate effort to test the virtues of joint occu- l^ation in Oregon, and they were by him introduced to McKay and McLeod, the two Hudson's Bay Company agents who had escorted Jason Lee two years before, and who were about to I'eturn to Van- couver from a trapping and trading tour. Nocwithstanding the urgent objection of the trapjDers and their assurances that it was impossible for a wagon to pass through the mountains. Whitman insisted upon taking the vehicle along; but when he reached Fort Hall he was compelled to reduce it to two wheels, and at Fort Boise they insisted upon an entire abandonment of it. Nevertheless, he had demonstrated that wagons could cross the Rocky Mountains, and was satisfied that the remainder of the route presented no more formidable obstacles. They were met on tlie route by a band of Nez Perces who had been informed in the spring 1»y Dr. Parker of their expected coming, and their reception \vas only less impressive than had l)een that of their herald, whose failui'e to do anything for them had served somewhat to cool the ardor Avhich his appearance had raised to fever heat. Mr. Pambrun gave them a hearty wel- come to Fort Walla Walla on the second of September, which was repeated by Dr. McLoughlin a few days latei- when they landed from the company's boats at Fort Vancouver. Leaving the ladies to enjoy the ht)spitalities of the fort, the three gentlemen returned to Walla AV^alla, and, with the aid of Mr. Pam- brun, sought for suitable locations for their pro])osed missions. It was decided to locate one among the Cayuses and the otluM- among the Nez Perces. The former was located at Waiilatpu, ou the 214 HISTORY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLEY. Walla Walla Rive)*, six miles west erty, and to denumd jjayinent for the land, timber, fuel and water which had been used. But by moderation and firmness, and with the aid of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Indians afterwards 216 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. admitted their puilt, and peace wiw apparently restored. In 1841, Mr. Smith, after sufTerlng no little annoyance from the wavaye manners of the Nez Pereea, on account of the failure of his own and his wife's health [lie had located amonj? Ellis' band of Nez Perces in 1.S3!), and the following year was pr., vented from cultivating any ground under pain of death, at the command of Ellis himself], left that mission and Oregon, and joined the mission at the Sandwich Islands. He subsecjuently returned to the Eastern States. In his oi^inion the Indians were pharisaical, and desired to make money out of the ndssionarles. By February, 1S42, affairs seemed so discouraging that the Board of Missions concluded to give up the stations among the ("ayuses and Nez Perces, and Kev. J. D. Paris and Mr. W. II. Rice, wlio had been sent to the mission by the way of Cape Horn and the Sandwich Islands, having reached the latter place, were induced to remain there temporarily, an arrangement which was afterwards maile permanent by the Board at Boston. The roving habits of the Indians, and the decrease in the attendance on the schools, increased the trials. H(;nce, Messrs. Sjialding and Gray were to return East, and Dr. Whitman was to join the Spokane Mission. In the fall of 1842, however, affairs took a more favorable turn : the Spokane Indians showed more tlioughtfulness and conscientiousness ; the school at Lapwai increased to an average of eighty, and afterwards to over 20); 1,(M)0 Nez Perces attended a series of meetings for nine or ten days, seven of whom were examined for admission to the church ; the Cayuse Saljbath congregations varied in the spring from 200 to 400, in the fall from -'M to 2(10, and less during the rest of the year. The two Nez Perces received into the church four years previous, and some others of whom hope was entertained, stood well as Christian workers ; and there was abundant evidence that the truth was exerting a restraining influence over most of the Indians. Some of them w^ere beconnug more settled, so that ')0 Cayust and 1.50 Nez Perces families cultivated from a quarter of an acre to five acres each ; one Nez Perces chief raised 176 bushels of peas, 100 of corn, and 300 of potatoes. Mrs. Spalding had taught a few of the Nez Perces women to knit, card, spin, and weave, and a large number to sew. « * « * * « It was also beconnng evident that more Americans were soon to come into the territory, and they would need something other than Roman Catholic preaching. All these things determined the missionaries in the fall of 1842, to continue all the stations, notwithstanding the instructions received from the Board at Boston, until the matter could again l)e reconsidered. These, and other considerations relating to the possession of the country, to which reference will afterwards be made, rendered it expedient, in the opinion of the mission, for Dr. Whitman to return East. He did so, leaving Walla Walla October 3d, 1842, and reaching Boston March oOth, 1843. He made such representations that the Board ratified the action of the nds- sion, in continuing all the stations. After transacting inii)ortant business at Wash- ington, and visiting his friends, he returned to Oregon. He left the western fr ntiers of Missouri, Jlay 31st, and after a short time overtook a company of about H emigrants, some of whom, wlien he was in the East, he had promised to aid, . iDUld they deterndne to go to Oregon. This journey was successfully made, and iht ilrst train of emigrant wagons rolled through to the Columbia River. The Methodist mission, founded by Jason Lee in the Willamette Volley, and which had met with such misfortune by sickness, was reinforced by Elijah White and wife, Alanson Beers and wife, W. K. Willson, Annie M. Pitman, Susan Downing and Elvira Johnson, FOUNDATION AND PROGRESS OF THE MISSIONS. 217 who sailed from Boston in July, 1836, and reached their destination the following May. The scourge of fever still afflicted the mission, and it consequently bore ill repute among the Indians of the Wil- lamette, in spite of the most earnest and conscientious efforts of Mr. Lee and his associates to win the good will of those for whose ben- efit they had made so great a sacrifice. In the fall of 1837 Rev. David Leslie, Rev. H. K. W. Perkins and Margaret Smith were added to their force of missionary laborers. Their field of opera- tions was enlarged in the spring of 1838 by the establishment of a mission at The Dalles, under the charge of Daniel Lee and H. K. W. Perkins. To do this required money, if they would continue their plan of operations. The Protestant method of working em- braced the instruction of the Indian in the methods of procuring food and clothing by his own intelligent effort, so that he might not experience those alternate seasons of feasting and famine to which he was subjected when relying solely upon the products of nature. They sought, also, to destroy his ro\ing habits by trans- forming him from a hunter to a farmer. Jason Lee accordingly started East to procure the necessary financial aid, accompanied by P. L. Edwards, F. Y. Ewing and two Indian boys. During his absence Mrs. Lee died, also Cyrus Shepard, who was teaching school at the Willamette Mission. Mr. Lee returned in 1840 with a party of forty -eight persons, eight of them being clergymen, and nineteen ladies. From this time the history of the missions be- comes so closely interwoven with that of the settlements, that no further effort will be inade to keep it distinct. A new element was introduced into the mission field in 1838, in the form of two zealous Catholic priests. Rev. Francis N. Blanchet and Rev. Modest Demers came overland from Montreal with the regular express of the Hudson's Bay Company, reaching Vancouver on the twenty-fourth of November, 1838, and having baptized fifty- three persons while voyaging down the Columbia. They came pre- pared to stay, and not without having received a cordial invitation. The servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, such, at least, as were of Canadian descent, had a natural leaning toward the Catholic church, which had been the one to administer to the religious wants of them- selves and parents, whenever they had been fortunate enough to come within the radius of Christian worship. When the Protestant mis- tJls HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTP: VALLKY. sionaries appeared it caused them to long foi' the pivseuee of the pious fathers; not with that insatiable longing which hm its source in the deepest fountains of our nature; they simply preferred, in case they were to enjoy religious privileges at all, to liave those with which tliey most naturally symi)athi/ed. Not only did they feel thus themselves, but they told the Indians that there were other and l^etter missionaries than those who had settled amongst them, men who wore long black gowns ani> he organ- ized a company which was incorporated by the Legislature f>f Mas- sachusetts as " The x\merican Society for the settlement of the Oregon Territoiy." This society presented a memorial to Congress in IH'M, setting forth that they were " engaged in the work of opening to a civilizeay Company; and such as are not repugnant to the stipulations of the contention, made between Great Britain and the United iStates, wherein it was agreed that any country on the Northwest coast of America, to be westward v»f the Hocky Mountains, should be free and open to the citizens and subjects of the two powers, for a term of years; and to grant them such other rights and privileges as may cvui tribute to the means of establishing a respectable and prosperous community." Congress did not see fit to encourage this scheme of coloniza- tion ; and it may well be said tliat, had Congress been relied upon, Oregon would inevitably have become a dependency of Great Brit- ain. That Itody of concentrated national \visdom lagged several years in the rear of the line of progress, and it was only by constant effort that through it the people were enabled to have their victories TT AMERICANS ORGANIZE A I'KOVISIONAI. (iOV KItN M KNI". :■_'.) finally recognized and ratified. This halting and dilatory conduct of the national legislature placed the acquisition of Oregon in con- stant jeopardy. The society, however, which had constituted Mr. Kelley its general agent, continued its efforts despite the supineness of Congress. Tn loundary at fifty-four-forty, but that forty-nine had been offered as a compromise line; and it is probable that the society thus defined Oregon within the limits generally believed at that time it would eventually assume. The cry, "fifty-four-forty-or- fight," had not then ))een heard, nor had tht people as yet been aroused to such a pitch of interest in this subject. That was re- served for the time when negotiations were again resumed, prior to the settlement of the (piestion in 1S4(>. The pamphlet gave the names of thirty -st^ven agents of the society, to whom persons de- siring to emigrate should make application for proper certificates and full infoi'mation ; and these assents were h^cated at various points throughout the Union. One of these wjis Nathaniel J. Wy- cth, wiiose unf(»rtunate fur and salmon ventures on the Columbia have been related. It was arranged for the expedition to start from St. Louis in March, 1 S;{2, with a train of v^agons and a good supply of stock. A town was to l)e laid out at the junction of the Co- hnnbia and Multnomah, and each emigrant was to receive a town lot and a farm, also, a lot in a town at the mouth of the Columbia, these places being already platted on paper. The failure of Con- gi'ess to take any action in the matter ended the colonization scheme for that year. Mr. VVyeth, it will be remendiered, crossed the country with a small party of Boston men, and returned the next TT •2-2i\ IIISTOIJY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY year. H»- a«rjiin visited the Cohinihia in 1834, accompanied hy Ja- sim Lee's party of missionaries. Mr. Kelley had undertaken to send a ^?lliJt loaded with sup})lies to the Cohini])ia, l)Ut unsuccess- fully. He then endeavored to open a route of trade through Mex- ico; liut in that country the revenue officers pounced upon his ir»KKls and confiscated the gi'eater portion of them. He still perse- veretl, and falling in with Ewing Young, the independent trader whose ojierations c>n the coast have been related, persuaded him and s»'veral others to accompany him to Oregon. They reached Vancouver October 15, IXJU. Mr- Knlley's health failed him, and he departed for home the following March, having lost !}>.'}(»,(>< 10 in liis effort.s to colonize Oivgon. Mr. Young, and others who had come with Mr. Kelley, or with AN'yeth's party, remained after the departure of those gentlemen — among them were James A. O'Neil, T. J. Hiib])ar(l, Courtney M. AValker and Solomon Smith. There were also tAvo men of French descent — Joseph Gei'vais and Etinne Lucier — who had come out with Wilson G. Hunt's party, and whose sympathies were Ameri- can. All told, aside from the missioniU'ies, there were about twenty- five men in (Jregou who were favorable to the United States, most nf them being mountaineers with Indian wives. Four of the inde- j>endent settlers were .John Turner, George Gay, John Woodwortli and Dr. Bailey, the sui'vivors of a })arty of nine, which left Califor- nia in the summer of 1835 for Oregon. The other's were Daniel yy. 11 iiiier, Saundei's, an Irishman called " Big Tom," a man whose name is unknown, anil a squaw. Turner was one of the survivors of the I'mptjua massa -re of 1828. The incidents attending their arrival are thus related by Hon. J. W. jVesmith, who had them from the lips of the survivors: — The party had forty-seven head of good horneH and a eomplete outfit for trai)i)ing. About the middle of June, 1835, the party enciniped for the night near h place known as "The Point of Rocks," on the south bank of Rogue River. Early the next morning the ludianK commenced dropping into camp, a few at a tiiiie. Oay wati nn guard, and not liking the appearance of the Indians, awoke Turner, who wa-s the leader of the party, and the latter conversed with t\\" savages through liis si|uaw, who spoke Chinook. Turner concluded that thei^ wa« no haini to l>e apprehendtHl from their dusky visitors, and, forgetting the fearful massacre v.hich he so narrowly escajKHl with Smith's party seven years before, near the UmiMiiia, the party bi-car.ie careless. In the meantime, some four or five hundred Indians had assembled in and about the camp of the little ,)arty, and at a 8i<: '>d furiously attacked the white men with clubs, bows and arrows and knives. 1 he AMEKICANS OKOAMZK A IM{OVI810iVAL OOVKUNMKXT. 'li attack was so sudden and unexpected that the Indians obtained three of t)\e eight guns with which Turner and liis party were armed. The struggle of the trappers for life was desperate and against fearful odds. The eiglit men seized wliatever tiiey could lay their bands on for defense. 8"me of them discharged their rifles in the bosom of their assailants and then clubbed their guns and laid about them with the barrels. Turner, who was a herculean Kentucky giant, not being able to reach his rifle, seized a big flr limb from the camp ttie and laid about him lustily, knocking his assailants right and left. At one time tlie savages had Oay down and were pounding him, but they were crowded so thick as to impede the force of their 1)1owm. Old Turner, seeing Gaj''s peril, made a few vigorous blows witli his limb whicii released him, and the latter, springing to his feet, dealt fearful cuts, thrusts, slashes and stabs with his long, sharp sheath-knife upon the naked carcasses of the dusky crowd. The other men, following Turner's and Cray's example fought with tlie fi'ergy of despair and drove the Indians from their camp. Dan Miller and another tranrnr were killed upon the spot, while the six survivors of the melee were all mo, Ipss seriously wounded. While the flght was going on, the H((uaws drove • ii' ' i.erd of horses and carried off' all of the baggit,e and can)i)-ei|uipage, togetlier ui'. ,: thne rifles. Three of the rie Willamette River until, in a famishing condition, they Htruck the >iet.,o'.o' i.,i.-ut a few years later some of their ex-servants located about Champoeg, oi- French Pvairie, in Marion county, and became quite a flourishing colony; and : •'^ their desc*^ndants live to the present day, useful and industriou ^ens. On tlie subject of the first settlements in the valley, Dr. McLough- lin's posthumous manuscript has much to say. The Etinne Lucier, spoken of by him, is the one mentioned above. He first settled on the east side of the AN'ilhunette, opposite the city of Poi-tland, where he lived several yeais I before remo\nng to French Prairie. The Doctor says : — In 5824 I eame to this country to superintend the management of tlie Hudson's Bay Coinpuny's trade on tlie coast, and we came to the determination to abandon Astoria, and go to Fort Vancouver, aa it was a place where we could cultivate the soil and raise our own provisions. In March, 1825, we moved there and that spring plante to Oregon simply as a missionary prevent him from advanc- ■ng American interests whenever possible), set on foot a scheme to [)roeure a supply of cattle from the vast herds grazing about the Spanish Missions in California. The effort was opposed by the coni})any, but with the aid of Lieutenant William A. Slocum, an officer of the United States Navy, who advanced money and gave a free passage to Califoi'uia in liis vessel to those who went after the cattle, it was completely successful, and "The Willamette Cattle Company '' was organized. The party which went to California was under the leadership of Mr. Young, and was composed of P. L. Edwards (who kept a diary of the expedition, whicli is now pre- served in the State Library at Sacramento and numbered 23,989), Hawchurst, Carmichael, Bailey, Erequette, DesPau, Williams, Tib- betts, (ireorge (ray. Wood, Camp, Turner, and enough others to make a company of about twenty men, all inured to the dangers and privations of mountain life. They collected a band of seven hundred cattle, at three dollars per head, and, with much labor and difficulty, succeeded in bringing six hundred of them into the valley. They AMIMMC.WS (HKIANMZK A IM{(;VISI()N A I. (ioVKItVMKXT, •j;n had much trouble with the Indians on Siskiyou Mountain and along Rogue River, and Gay, without any foundation, charges the com- pany with stirring up the Indians to cut them off. The fact is, as Edwards' diary [dainly shows, the trouble grew out of the unpro- \'oked nnu'der by one of the party of an Indian who visited their camp on Klamath River. Turner, Gay and Bailey were three of four survivors of the Amei-ican trapping party which had been attacked on Rogue River two years before, and shot this Indian in a spirit of revenge. It is certainly difficiflt to trace any agency of the company in this affair, or to assign any other cause than wanton murder for their trouble with the Indians. The arrival of the cat- tle was hailed with joy by the settlers, as it guaranteed them com- plete independence of the company, and demonstrated that Ameri- cans could settle in the Willamette Valley with an assurance of being self-supporting. Such is the version of the cattle question, as it come,s from Amer- ican sources. . Dr. McLonghlin gives quite another tone to it. His document says: — Every settler had as much wheat on loan as he wanted to begin with, and 1 lent them each two cows, as in 1825 we had only twenty-seven head, big and small, old and young. If I sold they would of course be entitled to the increase, and I would not have the means to assist the new settlers, and the settlement would be retarded, as those purchsisers who offered me two hundred dollars for a cow would put such a price on the increase as would put it out of the power of poor settlers to buy. This would prevent industrious men from settling. For these reasons I would not sell, but loaned, as I say, two cows to each settler, and in case the increase of settlers miglit be greater than we could afford to supply with cattle, 1 reserved the right to take any cattle I required (above his two cows) from any settlers to assist new settlers. To the Methodist Mission, as it was a public institution, I lent seven oxen, one bull and eight cows with their calves. In the beginning, several settlers lost cattle, poisoned by eating water hemlock. It has been said by the late Mr. Thurston, Delegate from Oregon, on the floor of Congress, that settlers paid for dead cattle. This is a wanton falsehood, as it is well known to all old settlers that no settler paid a cent for dead cattle. It was a loss to the company. In 1836 we found means of forming a company to go to California for cattle. I took half the stock for the Hudson's Baj' Company, so that by purchasing a large number (as the expense of driving five hundred or a thousand was the same) as it would make the cattle cheaper. Those of the settlers that had means i)ut it in the stock ; those that had none, engaged as drivers at one dollar per day, to be |)aid in cattle at their actual cost. Mr. Slocum, who came here in a chartered vessel, gave them a passage gratis from this place to San Francisco. Mr. Ewing Young was se- lected to conduct the party. Mr. P. L. Edwards, who came with Messrs. Lee, of the Methodist Mission, but now a lawyer in California, was appointed I'reasurer. They brought, 1 think, about seven hundred hea^l of cattle, which Rost eight dollars per head rendered. In the Willamette, the settlers kept the tame and broken-in fi •2:\-2 IllSTOISY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLKY. oxen they had belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, and gave their California wild cattle in the place, so tliat they found themselves stocked with tame cattle which cost them only eight dollars j)er head, and the Hudson's Hay Company, to favor the settlers, tooli calves in place of grown-up cattle, because tlie Hudson's Bay Company wanted them for beef. These calves would grow up before they were re- ((uired. At the close of 1^37, the iiulepen(h'nt popuhition of Oregon con- sisted of forty-nine souls, about equally divided between missionary attaches and settlers. With l)ut few exceptions the arrivals during the next two years were solely of persons connected with the various missions, whose advent has already ))een noted. Those coming in 1831) were. Rev. J. S. (ii-itfin and wife, and Mr. Munger and \v\le, who liad made an unsuccessfid effort to found an independent mis- sion on Snake River, and Ben A\'right, Robert Shortess, Sidney Smith, Lawson, Reiser, (xeiger, and Rlair, a blacksmith. By add- ing the following list of arrivals in 1840, to those previously men- tioned, the population of Oregon at that time will be (piite accu- rately listed. Ml", (iray thus suiumarizes the arrivals of that sea- son : — In 184(»— Methodist Episcopal Protestant Mission— Mrs. JiCe, second wife of Rev. Jason Lee; Ilev. .1. H. Frost and wife ; Rev. A. F. Waller, wife and two children; Rev. W. W. Kone and wife; Rev. G. Hines, wife and .sister; Rev. L. H. Judson, wife and two children; Rev. ,1. L. Parish, wife and three children; Rev. G. P. Richards, wife and three children; Rev. A. P. Olley and wife. Laymen — Mr. Geo. Abernethy, wife and two children ; Mr. H. Campbell, wife and one child ; Mr. W. W. Raymond and wite; Mr. H. B. Brewer and wife; Dr. J. Ij. Bai)Cock, wife and one child ; Mrs. Daniel Lee ; Mrs. David Carter : Mrs. Joseph Holnian ; Miss E. Phillips. Independent Protestant Mission— Rev. Harvey Clarke and wife ; P. B. Littlejohn and wife ; Robert Moore, James Cook, and James [Travers, according to Judge Deady,] Fletcher, settlers. Jesuit Priests — P. J. DeSmet, Flathead Mission. Rocky Mountain men witli native wives— William Craig, Doctor Robert Newell, Joseph L. Meek, George Ebbert, William M. Dougherty, John Larison, Geo. Wil- kinson, a Mr. Nicholson, and Mr. Algear, and William Johnscm, author of the novel, "Leni Leoti, o The Prairie Flower." The subject was first written and read before the Lyceum at Oregon City, in 1843. He classilies the population as follows: Amei'ican settlers, twenty-five of them with Indian wives, 30; American women, 33; children, 32; lay members, Protestant Missions, 13; Methodist Min- isters, 13; Congregational, O; American Physicians, 3; English Phy- sicians,!; Jesuit Priests, including DeSmet, 3; Canadian French, 00. Total Americans, 137; total Canadians, including Priests, 63; total population, not including Hudson's Bay Company operatives, AMKKICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL OOVKRNMKNT. 233 33; within what now is a portion of Montana, and all of Idaho, Wash- ington and Oregon, 200. Up to 1839 the only law or government administered in this region was the rules of the Hudson's Bay Company ; hut that year, deeming that there must be some authority which the settlers would respect, the Methodist missionaries designated two persons to act as magistrates. This was d(me entirely without the co-operation of the settlers, l)ut the action received their endorsement, or, at least, was generally acquiesced in. Several cases came before these officers for adjudication, the most important being the trial of T. J. Hub- bard for murder, he having shot a man who was attemi)ting to enter his cabin throuLch the window. The maj^istrate was Rev. David Leslie. The prisoner was acquitted l»y the jury. Settlements were made at this time with reference to the possi- ble division of the country on tlu' line of the Colum])ia River, all Americans locating south of the stream, and none l)Ut British sub- jects north of it. Cook, Fletcher and Moore settled on the ])anks of the Willamette, near the falls, the last named locating directly opposite* the cataract, on the west bank. He purchased a section of land of the Indians, a transaction which, of course, had no legal force, and named his place "Robin's Nest." Dr. McLoughlin claimed the opposite end of the falls, and, later, when he resigned from the Hudson's Bay Company, located there and became as good an American as any of them. Pie thus relates some of the diffi- culties he experienced with this claim: — In 1840, as I already stated, the Methodist Mission received a large reinforce- ment, r had selected for a claim, Oregon City, in 1829, made improvements on it and had a large quantity of timber squared. Tlie Superintendent applied to me for a loan of some of it to build a mission house. I lent them the timber and had a place pointed out to them upon which to build. In 1840 the Methodist Mission formed a milling association and jumped part of my claim and began t« build a saw and grist mill. They assumed the right to judge of my rights, and said that I could not hold it as part of my claim, though the stream that separates the islet from the main land is not more than forty feet wide in summer. This island is what is called " Abernethy Island," and is about three or four acres in extent. In 1842, Mr. Walker, the resident missionary in the house, to build which I lent timber, which they never returned, and gave the ground upon which to build, set up a claim to Oregon City in opposition to me, but after some difficulty, I paid them $500 and he gave it up. I preferred to do this and have done with it rathtr than here- after trouble Government with it. It has been remarked that the policy of the Hudson's Bay Com- IVM iriSTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK VAI,1-KT. pany w.'is to discourage any settlements whatever, preferring that the country should remain uninhabited l>y all save the Indians and the actual servants of the company. It had even gone to the ex- pense of sending to Canada those employees whose terms of service expired. Had they but themselves and employees to deal with, the policy was a wise one foi- the purpose of effecting the end aimed at — the preservation of the country in its primeval state — l)ut with the complication of independent American settlers it wa« the re- vei'se. Had the company from the beginning coloni/en with its discharged servants, as it had previously done the Red River region, there would now have been such a flourishing colony as would liave comjiletely overshadowed the Americans, if, indeed, it did not prevent their coming altogether. Failure to do this lost Great Britain her only hope of ac(iuiring Oregon. The company's eyes were fully opened to the danger when the Wallamet Cattle Company was organized in 1837. It resolved then upon a radical ami immediate change of policy — to colonize the country with sub- jects of Great Britain as rapidly as jDOssible. Accordingly, the Puget Sound Agriciultural Company was organized in 1887 as an associate of the company, which it was to supply with its products as well as carry on a trade with the Sandwich Islands and Alaska. The company, for reasons previously stated, selected a location on the north side of the Columbia, at Cowlitz and Nesqually. It took several years to carry the scheme into effect, since it was necessary to bring a large emigration from the company's older colony on Red River. The settlement on French Prairie has been mentioned; this consisted of about twenty-five families at the time Father Blan- chet arrived in 1838, and located there the Mission of St. Paul, where a school and church have ever since been maintained. The plan of the company was to thus overwhelm the American settlers in point of numbers, and at the same time to open negotiations be- tween the home governments for a final settlement of the mooted question of title, in which the great preponderance of English sub- jects should be lu'ged as a reason why Great Britain's claim to the country should be conceded. To the defeat of this deep-laid plan the United States is indebted largely to Dr. Marcus Whitman's per- spicacity, determination and patriotism, as will appear later on. The company's plans embraced, also, a studied and persistent AMKRICANS ORfJANIZK A 1»KOVISION A I, r.oVKtJ.VMK VT. •J.Sil niisrepre8erally aided huu in distress; and when called to account, in 184-4, for not enforcing the company's orders to withhold fi"om American settlers all assist- ance whatever, resigned his position and became nearly penniless because of being held personally responsil>le for the debts he had permitted many distressed emigrants to contract for necessary sup- plies, which debts, it may be stated, many never had the honor or gratitude to discharge. Aside from this order to >\-ithhold assistance, which, had it been enforced by Dr. McLoughlin, would have caused great distress, and which, of course, not being present to witness it, the chief officers of the company coidd not fully appreciate, there was nothing in the conduct of the company which would not be looked upon in any country and by any people as proper and nec- easary for the protection of their interests, could they «>e placed in a similar position. It is questionable if the gentlemen entertaining such bitter feelings had possessed the great power of the company, whether they would have used it as honorably and conscientiously AMERICANS OROANIZK A PROVISIONAL OOVKRNMKNT. 237 as (liject of his attitude and conduct towards American settlers at great length, and justice to him requires that his words be given in full. He says: — In 1S43, about 800 emigrants arrived from the Stiites. I saw by the looks of the Indians that they were excited, and I watched them. As the first stragglers were arriving at Vancouver in canoes, I was standing on the bank. Nearer the water there was a group of ten or twelve Indians. One of them bawled out to his com- panions, " It is good for us to kill these Bostons ! " Struck with the excitement I had seen in Uie countenances of the Indians since they had heard the report of the immigration coming, I felt certain they were inclined to mischief, and that bespoke thus loud as a feeler to sound me, and take their measures accordingly. I imme- fliately rushed on them with my cane, calling «)ut at the same time, "Who is the dog that says it is a good thing to kill these BosUms!" The fellow, trembling, excused himself, " I spoke without meaning harm, but the Dalles Indians say so." Well," said I, " the Dalles Indians are dogs for saying so, and you also," and left him, a-s, if I had remained longer, it would have had a bad effect. I had done enough to convince them I would not allow them to do wrong to the immigrants with impunity. From this Indian saying, in the way he did, that the Dalles Indians said it was good to kill the Bostons, I felt it my duty to do all I could to avert so horrid a deed. Mr. P. L. Edwards, whom I mentioned, came in 1834, with Messrs. Lee, and left in 18.38, sent me a letter by Gen. McCarver, stating he had given a letter of in- troduction to me to r. H. Burnett, Esq. I immediately formed my plan and kept my knowledge of the horrid design of the Ij^dians secret, as I felt certain that if Americana knew it, these men acting indej)endent of each other, would be at once for fighting, which would lead to their toUl destruction, and I sent two (2) boats 238 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTF, VALLEY. " You have known it for two name." The Doctor, seeing I with provisions to meet them ; :?ent provisions to Mr. Burnett, and a large quantity of provisions for sale to those who would purchase, and to be given to those who had not the means, being confident that the fright I had given (as alread.y stated; the Indians who sjiid it was a good thing to kill the Bost(>ns was known at the Dalles before our boats were there, and that witli the presence of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany people, and the assistance they aflForded the immigrants, would deter the Indians from doing them any wrong, and I am happy to be able to say I entirely succeeded. At first I thought these Indians were excited by some of the Iroquois Indians in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, and tried to find if so, l)ut found nothing to enlighten me on the subject. Alxnit a month after Dr. Whitman, from his mission Walla Walla to Vancou- ver, as the Dalles was on liis way, and as he had seen the princifil men there, it occurred to mc that he might have heard of it, and told him what I heard the Indian say, antl how I had alarmed him, what I had done to deter them and my suspicion that all this .^i)rung from .some of our ra.scally Iroquois, and tliat I was anxious to find thai ra.scal oui to punish liim as an example to deter otiiers. " Oh," says the Doctor, " I know all about it." " You do. Doctor," says I. " Yes," said the Doctor, "and I liave known it for two years." years anil you told me no^hint^! Pray tell me his wtxs on the wrong scent, said, "His name is Thonuis Hill." After thinking for Bome time, I replied, the Hudson's Bay Comininj' had no man of that name in their service. "Oh," says the Doctor, " Tom Hill the Sliawnce." Tliis Indian, it is said, had been eost anxious for the .-afoty of the immigrants and to discharge to them the duties of a Christian, my ear v.'ould not have caught so (juickly the w )rds, " ii is a good thing to kill these Bostops," and acted jus I did. In fact, if the immi- grants had all been my brothcw and sistei-s, I could not have done mure for them. T fed the hungry, causwl tlie sick trted that next season there would be a greater immigration, it wa.s evident if there wtw not a pro|>ortionate increiuse of setnl sown in 1843 and 1844, tiiere would be a famine in the country in 1H4.5, which would leaany juiuimhI part of uiy claim, the island uiHin which they built a mill, and AMEKICAXS ORGAXIZK A VKOVISIONAL (JOVKKNMENT. 239 whicii subsetjuently Abernethy purchased, and when Williamson jumiied part of Fort Vancouver, as may be seen by my corretipondence with the i)rovisi()nal govern- nicnt on the subject, and which occuired in the presence of several American citizens, who I am hnpi)y to say stronj^ly expressed their disapprobation of William- son's conduct, and whieli I am induced to believe made him desist, anuntains, cut no iigure at first in the oi'ijanization of a government, thiit mt>vement being confined to the settlers in the Willamette Val- ley. The motives which actuated them are thus set forth by J. Quinu Thornton: — Distant from the land of their birth, surrounded by restless tribes of Indiant*, who clamorously and insolently demanded of the immigrants pay for lands whii'h the immigrants had neither the means nor the right to purchase; still ardently de- siring to have their names and their destiny connected with that of the republic, and yet, often pierced to the heart by the thought, which would sometimes, unbid- den, obtrude itself ujwn the mind, that they were the victims of their country's neglect and injustice, and suffering all the inconveniences and embarrassnunts w hich are necessarily felt by a residentand civilized community, without a system of laws for the conservation of peace and order, they were at length comijelled to or- ganize a provisional government. Their first step was taken March 16, 1888, when J. L. Whit- comb and thirty-five other settlers prepared a memorial, which was presentetl to Congress January 28, 18.S9, by Senator Linn. This document set forth the resources and condition of the country, and contained the following paragraph: — We are anxious when we inuigine what will be, what must be, the condition of 8o mixed a community, free from all legal restraint and superior to that moral influ- ence wliich has hitherto been the pledge of our safety. We flatter ourselves f/iat u-e art the germ of a great State and are anxious to give an early tone t«) the moral and intellectual character of our citizens— the destinies of our jMisterity will be intimately affected by the character of those who immigrate. The territory nuist populate — the Congress of the United Htatcs umst say by whom. The natural resources of the country, with a well-judged civil code, will invitea good community but a goofi community will hardly emigrate to a country which promises no pro- tection to life or property. * * * We can boast of no civil ccMle. We can promise no i)rofection but the ulterior resort of self-defense. • • * We have thus briefly shown that the security of our jjersons and our property, the hopes and destinies of our children, are involved in the subject of our iH'tilion. We do not presume to suggest the manner in which the country should be y ou raged. We confide in the wisdom of our national legislators, and leave the subject to their candid deliberations. This petition was read, laid on the table, and neglected. In June, 1840, Senator Linn again presented a menumal, signed by seventy citizens of Oregon : — Your petitioners represent that they are residents in Oregon Territory, and citi- zens of the United States, or persons desirous of becoming such. They furthei rep- resent that they have settled themselves in said Territory, under the belief that it was a portion of the public domain of the United States, and that they might rely upon the government thereof for the blessings of free institutions and the protec- tion of its arms. But your petitioners further represent, that they are^minformed of any acts of said Government by which its Institutions and protection are ex- tended to them; in consequence whereof, them-selves and families are exposed to be destroyed by the savages and others that would do them. harm. And your petition- ers would further represent that they have no means of protecting their own and the lives of their families, other than self-constituted tribunals, organized and sus- tained by the power of an ill-instructed public opinion, and the resort to force and arms. And your petitioners represent these means of safety to be an insufficient safeguard of life and property. * * * * Your petitioners wherefore pray the Congress of the United States of America, to establish, as soon as may be, a territorial government in Oregon Territory. The phrase which is italicized in the above memorial nndoiibt- edly refei's to the Hudson's Bay Company, which, so ■ .le of the settlers then believed and a few still affect to believe, desi:. d their destruction. The absurdity of this has already been pointed out l)y calling attention to the character of the company's officers in Ort- gon, and to the very patent fact that had such been their intention it would have been carried out, since nothing could have been easier of acconiplishnient. That the company succeeded in "freezing out " opposition traders, })y exerting its authority to prevent the Indians form trading with its rivals, and by refusing to sell such men sup- plies when in business distre.s8, is an undisputed fact; and that it s(»ught to "starve out" all American settlers, or, at least, keep them in practical subjection, is equally undisputable, and would probably have been as fully successful had am>tlier than Dr. Mc- lioughlin been in charge at Vancouver; but that it sought to achieve these ends by murder and inciting the Indians to slaughter them, lacks proof of any kind. Its domination over the Indians was so complete that a simple hint that the company desired the Americans killed would have been sufficient to have accomplished that end. The simple fact that these petiti<)uei's lived for uumy years expo.sed 242 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. to attack ami never oiice received it, is evidence enough to show that the fears expressed in the memorial were ungrounded. Having thus jji-ovided for making knowTJ the situation of affairs to Congress, and being well aware that one, and }»ossibly two, yt'ars must roll around before they could even know that their petition liad been pi-esented, they adch'essed themsehes to the task of pro- viding such government as was absolutely recpiired for the security of their families and the proper conservation of the peace. The principal setth-nient wa> at Champoeg, and thei'e a meeting wa.s held on the seventh of Februavy, 1H41, the record of which shows that it was "a meeting of some of the inhabitants * * * for the purpose of consulting upon steps necessary to be taken for the formation of laws, and tlie election of officers to execute them." Rev. Ja.son Lee was called to the chair, and reipiested to express his opinion of what was necessary to be done. In a brief speech, which indicates that he had given considerable thought to the subject, he a(.l vised the appointment of a committee to (h'aft a ccmstitution and by-laws for the government of that portion of the territory l\iug s(»uth (,)f the Columl)ia. The people were also recommended to con- sidered the (juestion of a governor and other officers. Here the matter rested temporai'ily ; but an (went happened a few days later which revived it with irreater vigor. This was the death of that able and energetic lea(h'r, Ewing Young, on the fifteenth of Feb- ruary. His funeral, which was held two days later, was attended by nearl}' every setth^r in the valley. Mr. Young [wssessed c(m- siderablc property, and left no visil)le heirs to claim it and no one to administer upon the estate. Had he l)e('ii a servant, or even an employee of the company, the officers would have taken charge of the effects; or had he been lussociated with one of the missions, there would have been no doubt about the disposition of his property; but he was simply an independent settler, and no one had any color of authority to act in the premises. After the funeral ceremonies were c(mcluded, the people organized a "meeting of some of the inhabit- ant** of the Wallamet Valley, foi- consultation concerning tin steps necessary to be taken for the formation of laws, and the election of officers to execute the same, and for the better preservation of peace and good ordei'." Uev. Jason Lee was chosen Chairman, and Rev. Gustavus nines Secretary. It waa determined to institute a civil gov- AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 243 olor of lial»it- tion of f pence »1 Rev. eniment south of the Columbia, to the protection of which any per- son living north of that stream and not connected with the company, might be admitted upon aj^plication. The form of government decided upon was a legislative connnittee, a govei'nor, a supreme judge with probate powers, three justices of the peace, three con- stables, three road commissioners, an attorney-general, a clerk of the courts and j)id)lic recorder, a treasurei', and two overseers of the poor. Names of gentlemen to occujn' the various offices were sug- gested, and then the meeting adjourned to assemble the next day at the Methodist Mission, and elect officers. Nearly all the male pop- ulation south of the Colund)ia assembled at the time and place specified. There were three distinct factions — the Methodist mis- sionaries and their associates, the independent settlers, and the Catholics as allies of the Hudson's Bay Company. The first busi- ness was the choice of a committee to draft a constitution and code of laws, the fullowinu" gentlemen beini; selected: Rev. F. N. Blan- chet, I'epresenting the Catholics; Rev. Jason Lee, Rev. Gustavus Hines and Rev. Josiali L. Parrish, representing the Methodist Mis- sion; D. Donpierre and ^l. Charlevo, representing the French Can- adian settlers; Robert Moore and Etinne Lucier, representing the Atn.'rican settlers; "William Johnson, representing the purely English ehuiient. The main point at issue between the factions seemed to be the position of governor; Revs. Leslie anut the latter element he alienatetl l»y his extreme immodesty in nominating himself. It was finally deciy Dr. Robert Newell, an old mountaineei", who took a prominent and lu)noral)le part in the early affairs of Oi"egon. He was one of the ari'ivals of 1840 previously noted. Newell had served as guide to the Methodist missionaries from (xreen River to Fort Hall, where, as compensation for his services, he received the two watrons beloncjino; to the missionaries, which the\' had decided to abandon at that point. The wagon party consisted of Dr. Rob- ert Newell and family, Joseph L. Meek, Caleb AVilkins and Francis Ermatinger, a Factor of the Hudson's Bay Company. The inci- dent is thus related by Dr. Newell: — At the time I took the wagons, I hud no idea of undertaking to bring them into AMKinCANS OKOANIZK A PROVISION A I. fiOVKRNMKNT. •24] this country. I cxi^lmniird fat liorses to these missioimritw for their animals, and after they had lu-eii jfone a niontli or more for WalUmiet, and the American Fur Comi)any liad ahaiidomd tlie country for good, I concluded to liitch up and try the nnuih-dre uled jol) of bringing a wagon to Oregon. I sold one of these wagons to Mr. KrniatingtT, at Kort Hall. Mr. C'aleh Wilkins had a small wagon whicli Joel Walker hail left at Kort Hall. On the Hfth of August, 1840, we put out with three wagouH. .Joseph L. Meek drove my wagon. In a few days we began to realize the difficult task before us, and found that the continual crashing of the .sage under our wagons, which was in many places higher than the mule's backs, was no joke. .Seeing our animals begin to fail, we began to light up, linally tlirew away our wagon-beds and were (juiti' sorry we had undertaken the job. All the consolation we had was that we broke the lirst .sage on that road, and were too proud to eat anything but dried salmon skins after our provisions had become exhausted. In a rather rough and reduced slate we arrived at Dr. Whitman's mission station in the Walla Walla Valley, where we were met by that hosj)itable man and kindly made welcome and feasted accordingly. On hearing me regret that I had undertaken to bring wagons, the Doctor said, "Oh, you will never regret it. You have broken the ice, and when others see that wagons have passed, they too will pass, and in a few years the valley will be full ol our people." The Doctor shook ine heartily by the hand ; Mrs. Whitman, too, welcomed us, and the Indians walked around our wagons, or what they called "horse canoes," and seemed to give it up. We spent a day or so with tlic Doctor, and then went to Kort Walla Walla, where we were kindly received by Mr. 1'. C. Pambrun, Cliief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, Sui)erintendent of that post. On the rtrst of October, we took leave of those kind people, iKirimj our wuyonn and taking the river trail— but we i)roceeded slowly. Our party consisted of .Josei)h Ij. Meek and myself, also our families, and a Hnake Indian whom 1 brought to Oregon, where he died a year after our arrival. The party did not arrive at the Wallamet Falls till December, subsisting for weeks upon dried salmon, and upon several occasions comjielled to swim their stock across the Columbia and Wallamet. The eiuigraiits from the Red River colonies which were brought to Oregon in pursuance of the phm of the Hudson's Bay Company set forth above, arrived in the fall of 1S41. Sir (xeorge Simpson, goveriH>r of the comj)an>', visited Vancouver the same year, crossing overliind from Moiitival. Just east of the Rocky Mountains he passed tliis train of emigrants, whicli he records as consisting of " twenty-thi-ee families, tiie heads being generally young and active.'' They reached Oregon in S('ptenil)er ann felt of Indian hostility, nor were we in any inslnnce molested by them ; on the contrary, they furnished us witli salmon and ^anie, and rendered us valuable assistance for very trilling rewards. From Walla Walla to the Willamette Falls occupied al)out twenty ilays, and all things consiateuux to Fort Vancouver to market. Most of our clothing came from the Hudson's IJay Company, was all of one size, and said to have been made to fit Dr. McLoughlin, who was a very large man. Boots and shoes were more difficult to Ik? obtainearticular, that they had prac- tically lived in the wagon for more than twenty years, only remaining in one locality long enough to make a crop, which they had done in every State and Ter- ritory in the Mississipiii Valley. Accordingly, under the lead of L. W. Hastings, they set out as soon as the weather would permit, and. after encountTiug ?ome difficulty with the Indians, they reached Sacramento Valley, .\mong this party was Hon. Nathan Coombs, then a mere b()y, who afterwards btH-ame a large land owner and stock raiser in Napa Valley, and founder of the city of that name. Uncle Tommy Shadden, who is here to-tlay, was al.so of that party. In the spring of 1843 those of our party who remained in the countrj- generally lle work for the youth of the coast, and which still flourishes under the manageraeut of its founders, the Methodist Episcopal Church. On the seventeenth of AMERICANS OROANIZK A PROVISIONAL OOVKRNMENT. 251 Jamiarv, 1842, at the call of Rev. Jason Let-, the pcoph* aHHcmblcd at Clieinckcta, now Noi'th Salt-ni, to consider the (juestion of e.s- tal)lishing an ef meitwitr the wanti* of the growing conununity. A committee was a[)[)ointe(l and the meet- ing adjourned till tlie tirst of FeV>ruary, when it convened in the old mission building which had I)cen erected in 18.'}4. The Oregon Institute was then founded with the following board of trustees: IJcv. Jason Lee, llev, David Leslie, Rev. (Justavus I lines, Rev. J. L. Pani:., Rev. L. IL Judsoii, lion. (leorge Abernethy, Alanson Ueei's, IL Campbell and Dr. J. L. Habcock. A location on French Prairie wjvs lirst seh'cted, but that jdace being deficient in pure water, the institute was finally located on Wallace Prairie, two and one-lialf miles below the present City of Salem. A constitution was adopted on the fifteenth of March, and on the twenty-sixth of ( )ctober the school was foinially p'aced under the cliarge of the .Metliodist /Episcopal Church. The 'r.'j. ration of 1H42, small thougli it wa.s and diminished by the migration of several families to California, served to materially strengthen the inde[)endent American element. Those who were desirous of or<;anizinur a government began a<;ain to canvjiss the s(il)ject, the leading spirit being W. H. dray, who had left his associates — Whitman, 8j)alding, Eells and Walker — and settled in the AVillamette Valley. lie gatheivd a few of the trusty ones at his house to consult upon the best means of getting the people together so as to get a spontaneous action fi'om them before oppos- ing inHuences could have time to work uj)on them. A simple but effective plan was devised — one which worked to a charm. Many domestic animals had been destroyed l)y wild beasts, decimating the small herds of the settlers, and how to prevent such ravages had become a serious (piestion with every settler. It was decided to call a meeting for the ostensible purpose of devising some means for the protection of cattle from the ravages of wild beasts, and notice w.is accordingly sent throughout the valley for every settler to attend sucli a meeting at the Oregon Institute on the second day of February, 1848. The attendance was very large, Dr. Babcock occupying the chair. The presiding officer was unaware of the secondary object of the meeting, to the principle of which he was unfavorable. A committee of six was appointed to submit a plan 252 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY. of operations to an adjourned meeting to be held on the first Mon- day in Mareh, at the cabin of Joseph Gervais. These two gather- ings are generally known among the pioneers as " Wolf meetings." Prior to the second meeting LeBreton and a Mr. Smith quietly can- vassed the sentiment of the people on the sul)ject of a more com- plete government, finding that (juite a diversity of opinions prevaih^d. There was a lyceum which met occasionally at Willanuitte Falls, Vtefore which this question was introduced, and was discussed with great animation. The decision there reached was that a government at that time wa.s ine.xpedient. A government was advocated by Dr. McLoughlin — one which would l»e entirely inendent of the two nations chiiming Oregon. L. W. Hastings, ;;>* attorney for the Doctor, introduced the rescdution, "That it is expetlient for the settlei*s of the coast to estaldish an Inc appointed to take into consideration the propriety of taking ineasur€>s for the civil and military protection of this colony. Rtaulved, That said committee consi.st of twelve persons. The resolutions were iinanimously adopted, and J)i'. HaV)cock, Dr. White, O'Neil, Shoi-tess, Newell, Lucier, (iray, Gervais, Hub- hard, M'lloy, Smith and Gay, were apj)(>inted to serve on the com- mittee. About two weeks hiter the committee assembled at the Falls, many other ijentlemen being present and j)articipating in their deliberations. Ucv. Jjuson I^ee and (ireorge Abernethy, as rep- resentatives of the Methodist Mi.ssi(»n sentiment, made speeches in opposition to the }>ro[)osed action, l^nalde to come to a definite decision, the committee csUled a genend meeting to be held at Cham- poeg on the second of Miiy, and then adjourned. A document op- [losing the proposed tietion, and styled " An address of the Canadian citizens of Oregon to the meeting at (/htimpoeg," was prepared by the anti- American element, and circidated among the Canadian French population foi' signatures. This element held four meet- ings to organi/.e an opposition to the iDovement — one at Vancouver, one at the Falls, and two at Chanipoeg. The C'anadians were drilled to vote "No" on till (jiiestions, and LeHreton, whose previous affili- ation with the Catholic ehMiient gave him an opportunity to learn of these plans, ndvised that some measure be introduced upon which they shotdd j)ro])ei'ly \ote"Ves," to thus throw them mio confu- sion and expose tlieir ttictics. The settlers ji.ss«'mbled at Chanipoeg in forc<* on the second day of May, and cotisiderable skirmishing was indidged in, the Canadians invariably voting "No" on all t|Uestions without reference to the hearing they had upon the in- terests they rej)rescnted jind Ix'coming much demoralized in conse- «|U«'nce. Lelireton, who had made a careful cjinvass of those in 254 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. attendance, finally exclaimed, " We can risk it, let us divide and count I" Gray shouted, " I second the motion I" Jo. Meek then stepped quickly out of the crowd, and raising his voice to a high pitch, shouted, " Who's for a divide? All for the report of the com- mittee and oriranization, folknv me?" The Americans quickly raniretl them. -Ives on his sich^ and a count (hneloped the fact that fifty-two stood in line with him and only fifty on the oppos-ng side. "Three cheers for our side!" exclaimed Meek, and as the i»'sponsive cheere rose in the air, the defeat u Canadians withdrew and grad- ually left the victors to conduct the remainder of the proceedings to suit theujselves. The Committee of Twelve then reported in favor of the selec- tion of a Legislative Committee, and this [>lan was adsinome re- spects, were inclined to clash with each othei-. To chouse an exec- AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL OOVERNMKNT. 255 utive from any one of these was calculated to array the others in either open or covert hostility to the Government. It was finally decided that it would, under the circumstances, he judicious lo re- pose that authority in an Executive Conunittee of three persons, who should represent the strons^est and most desiral)le interests amoni; the various classes to be included in their jurisdiction. The Legislature adjourned after a session of three days. On the fifth of July the people again assendded at Chanipoeg to hear the report of the Legislative Committee, the meeting being presided over by Rev. Gustavus Ilines. The Canadian citizens who signed the address spoken of a])ove were pi'eseiit in force at the meeting on the second of May and participated in rhe proceedings, voting against oi-gaiiizution, as has been related. Their address was not then presented, but later was place,! in the hands of a sub- committee of three to whom the Legislative Committee had dele- gated the task of arranging the laws ptussed bv them for sul (mission to the meeting now under discussion. After examiniui' it the com- mittee returned it to the Secretarv, with instructions to iile it among the public documents, as a record of the inteivsts and persons op- posed to the oi'ganization «)f a government. At the meeting now being considered many of them were jiresent and took part, ex- pressing themselves as favorably disposed towards the ol)ject sought to lie obtained by the Americans. Othe.i's, however, declined to attend, and asserted that tliey would not submit to the authority of any g<»vernment which might be organized. This was also the po- sition assumed l»y the Catholic Missionaries and the rejn'esentatives of the Hudson's Hay Company, the latter even addressing a com- nninicati(m to tlie leaders of the organization movement, stating that they felt almndantly able to defend both themselves and their po- litical rights. This was the status of affairs when Mr. llines an- nounced the meeting as prepared to hear the i-eport of the com- mittee. Tiie report of tlie committee was presented by Chairman Moore and read by the Secretary, Mr. i^eHretou. The debate whicli fol- lowed was exceedingly animated, Mr. llines vigorously opposing the three-fold executive head proposed by the comuiittee. Dr. Bab- eock also opposed it on the ground that it looked too much like a pernument form of govei'ument, instead of the temporary makeshift 256 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. which he supposed was the object of the gathering. ( )'Neil and Shortest sustained the report, and Mr. Gray made a forcible, and, as it appears, a convincing, argument in its favor, using the follow- ing languag;^: — Mk. Pkksidkxt an'i> Fellow Citizens:— The speech which we have just listened to, troiu our presiding officer (G. H. Hines) is in the main correct. It is true that the Leirishitive Coninilttee were not instructed to bring before you an executive deiiaitiuent in the law and government you proposed to form, when you appointed your coinniittee to j)repare thesie laws. It is also true that svlien that coninilttee met they found that they coulid not advance one step in accomplishing the worl< you instructed them to perform, without some sujiervising intlueiicesome- where ; in sliort, without a head. Their instructions being against a governor, they have provided an Kxecutive Committee in place of a single man for governor. The executive head is to act in place of a senate council and governor. This pro* vision is before you for your approval or rejection. With the Executive Committee our organization is complete; without it, we have no head; no one to :-iee that our laws arc executed, and no one to grant a reprieve or pardon in case the law should be enforced against the life or projierty of any one for the violation of any law, no matter what the circumstances connected with the real or sujiposed violation might be. Now, fellow citizens, let us look calmly at our true situation. We are two thou- sand five liiiiidred miles from any point from which we can receive the least assist- ance by land, and seventeen thousand miles by water. A portion of our community are organized anerity among ourselves, agree to adopt the following Ihwh AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL QOVKUNMENT. 25^ und regulations, until such time as the United States of America extend tlieir Ju- risdiction over UB. The following certificate was issued to the Executive Committee as a warrant of office: — This certifies that David Hill, Alanson Beers and Joseph (iaie, were chosen the Executive Committee of the Territory of Oregon, by the i)eoj»le of Huid Territory, and have taken the oath for the faithful performance of the duties of their offices, as required by law. GEORGE W. LkBRETON, Recorder. Wall • met, Orkgon Tebkitoby, July 5, 18-13. Says Mr. Thornton, in sjjeaking of the place where these pro- ceedings were taken: — It may not be quite uninteresting to say that the state Hoiwe in which all this was done was in several respects difTerent froni that in whlcli laws are made at Wasliington City. The Orejron State House was built witli jiosts set upri^lit, one end set in the ground, grooved on two sides, and tilled in witli poles i..i(l split tim- ber, such as would be suitable for fence rails, with plates and poles acrosn tlie top. Rafters and horizontal poles, instead of iron ribs, held the cedar l)arl< which was used instead of thick copper for roofing. It was twenty by forty feet, and did not tlierefore cover tliree acres and a half. At one end some puncheons were put up for a platform for the President; some poles and slabs were ])lace(l around for seats; tliree planks about one foot wiile and twelve feet long, placed ujKin a sort of stake platform for a table, were all tliiit was iK-iieved to be necessary for the use of the Legislative Committee and the clerks. It is due to the people who met to ajjprove or disapprove of the acts of that conmiittee, to say that perfect order and decorum characterized all the proceedings of July .jth, 1843. The following officers, chosen at the meeting on the second of May, were continued in office until the election of their successors on the second Tuesday in May, 1S44, at which time, also, a Legis- lative Committee of nine was to he chi»sen: A. E. Wilson, Su[)reme Judge; G. W. LeBreton, Clerk and Recorder; J. L. Meek, Sheriff; W. H. Willson, Treasurer; A. B. Smitli, Compo, L. II. JuJ- son and Hugh Bm-ns, Magistrates; Stpiire EUbetts, F. X. Mattliieu and Reuben Lewis, Con8tal>les; J(»hn Howard, Majt>r; S. Smith, C. McRoy and William McCaity, Captiiins. Having thus related the steps taken for the idganizatioii of a government, it is in order to consider the great immigration of 184.'i, which arriveany nor the Catholics were included; and this feeling intensified from year to year. It was manifested in 1841 by insulting and threatening conduct towards the missionaries both at Waiilatpu and Lapwai, and in 1842 this became so threatening that an effort was made to check it. Dr. Elijah White, whose arrival that fall with authority as an Indian Agent has been noted, paid a visit to tlie Nez Perces in Novem))er, accompanied })y Thonms McKay and Mr. Archibald ]\IcKinlay, agent at Fort Walhi Walla. A treaty was concluded, aud the triby adopted a systt^m of laws, in which the AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 259 general principles of right and justice were embodied in a form suit- able to their customs and condition. The same laws were adoj)ted by the Wascopums, at The Dalles, but nothing was accomplished with the Cay uses. The next year Baptiste Dorion, a half-breed in- terpreter for the Hudson's Bay Company, upon his own responsibil- ity, circulated the story that the Americans were coming up in the summer to take their lands. This created great excitement among the tribes along the base of the Blue Mountains, and the young braves wanted to go to the Willamette at once and exterminate the settlers. They were held in check by the older ones, ^vhile Peo-peo-mux- mux, the great Walla Walla chief, went to Vancouver to investi- gate. He was informed by Dr. McLoughlin that he did not believe the Americans entertained such an idea, and his report to the tribes allayed the excitement to a certain extent. Dr. AN'hite went up in April to hold a council with the Cayuses, and they adopted the Nez Perce laws, electing Five Crows, who lived on the Umatilla not far from the site of Pendleton, as head chief. The result of this was to restore the feeling of security for a time. Several French Canadians were to have accompanied Dr. White, but were advised to remain at home by Dr. McLoughlin. This action of the Chief Factor has been se\erely censured and has served as an argument to prove that the Hudson's Bay Company was stiri'ing up the Indians to drive the Americans from the country. The Amer- ican settlers had but a few days before unanimously signed a memorial to Congress, in which Dr. McLoughlin was severely cen- sured. About this time, also. Father Demers arrived fi'om the in- terior and informed him that the Indians were oidy incensed against the Boston people, and had nothing against the French and King George j)eople; but they were determined the Bostons sliould not have their lands and take away their liberties. Learning that his people were in no danger, and snnirting under the undeserved charges in the memorial, it is not at all unnatural that he should say: "Let the Americans take care of themselves." It was thus matters stood when the great immigration of l)S4;i arrived, demon- strating to the Indians that their fears \vere far from groundless. CHAPTER XVI. Dlt. WHITMAN AND THE EMIGRATION OF 1843. What Induced the K mUj ration of ISIfS — Steeps Taken to Organize the Movement — Dr. Whitinatt's Character — His anxiety to Americanise Oregon — The Ashhurtim Treaty and the Cod Fishery — Whitman's Deci 'on to Visit Washiit'jtou — 57«? Waiilaj)tu Meeting — The Un- fortunate Controversy t.'ver the Services of Dr. Whitman — Gray^s Walla Walla Romance — Its Absurdity Pointed Out — The Facts — Whitvnni and Lovrjinfs Journey- — Extent of Whit/nan's Jnfuence in I ndnciny Emigration — His Visit to Washington and Boston — Organization and Journey of the Emigrants — List of Emigrants and Popiflation of Oregon in 18^3 — Fremont^s Exploring Party. IN iiearl} sill piwious writings upon this subject the emigra- tion of 1843 has been considered from the wrong end — from the Oregon end — the -destination of the emigrants, instead of the Mississippi \' alley, their starting point. It should be viewed from the place where the movement had its inception, to obtain a correct and adecpiate understanding of the subject. The great emigra- tion to Oregon that year was the I'esult of causes which hare\iously Iteen deterred from following their inclination to emigrate to this land of dispute, l)ecoming convinced that it was the intention of the (iovernment to assert in earnest its claim to this region, and that the bill donating to each emigrant one section of land woidd be pjissed, resolved to make the hazardous journey. Said one of these, Gen. E. L. Applegate, in a recent speech: — This proposition d«>oj>ly toiiclied the heart of the western pioneer. He had pr()hal)l.v crossed the Bine Hid^e or the ( unilierland Mountains when a boy, and was now in liis ]irinie. Itugued, liardy and jtowerful of frame, lie was full to over- flowing with the love of adventure, and animated by a brave soul that scorned the very idea of fear. All had heard t)f the perpetually green hills and plains of West- ern Oregon, and how that the warm breath of the vast Pacillo tempered the air to the genial degree and drove winter far back towards the north. Many of them contrasted in the inutgination the open stretch of a mile scpuire of rich, green and grassy land, where the strawberry plant bloomed through every winter month, with their circumscribed clearings in the Missouri B»>ttom. Of long winter esenings neighbors visited each other, and before the big shell-bark hickory fire, the seasoned walnut fire, the dry black jack lire, or the roaring dead elm tire, they talked these things over; and, as u natural consequence, under these favorable circumstances, the spirit of emigration warmed up ; and the "Oregon fever" became as a house- hold expression. Thus originated the vast cavalcade, or emigrant train, stretch- ing its Btirpentiue length for miles, enveloped in the vast pillars of dust, patiently 202 III8T0RT OF WILLAMKTTK VALLET. wending Ite tDilsoine way across the Amerionn Continent. How familiar these scenes and experiences with tlie old pioneers! Tlie vast plains; tin* uncountable herds of l>uft°alo: tlic swift-footed antelope; the luin