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Ssn Jo«quiri, Sss.-jtJinfito, Yuba nr^d SuUef, Cililcroi* ; WaDu W«!!a, Ca!unsbv». Gorfiisld .vvd Whitman, Washington Ter'ilOfv aiid Um»t<l|«, Jackwn, Josop'nina, Cws. CiJi'y and Douglas, Omgon- . *' "'^Yk/;.-/ ^'•^^-^■<-'f^^jf A POPULAR HISTORY-OF*OR H KKO.M The Discovery of America to the Admission of the •-. , . State into the Union. . BY HARRY L. \YELL«, Compiler of histories of Siskiyou, Butte, Plumas, Sierra and Nevada Counties, California, and contributor to the "History of the State of Nevada," and to histories of the counties of San Joaquin, Sacramento, Yuba and Sutter, California; Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield and Whitn, an, Washington Territory; and Umatilla, Jackson, Josephine, Coos, Curry and Douglas, Oregon. PORTLAND, OREGON: DAVID STKEL, SlICCK^SSOR TO IIIME.S THE PRINTER 169-171 Second Street. mn Ccpyiight, 1888, By W. T. HUME. ^.SVr^:^ m PREKATORY. Having l)eeii frf<iuently impressed with the (lisci'e(lit<-il)le ig- norance of the history of this state displayed, not only by the ris- ing generation of Oregon, but by those whose task it is to instruct them in oni' public scliools and higher institutions of learning, as well as by the great mass of our citizens whose residence in the state dates back but a decade of years, the writer resolved to prepare a volume which would present the early annals of Oregon in a con- cise and entertaining form, unencun.bered with amass of foot-notes and Inferences, at the same time preserving tliat accuracy of fact and minuteness of detail that would render it suitable for the use of the student. The writer has ap[)roache(l his task with a mind en- tirely free from the prejudices, animosities and denominational zeal which have rendered Oregon's historical writers totally incapable of preparing a just and impartial chronicle. The frailty of human na- ture renders it impossibU; for one who has been in the heat of bat- tle, or who has a deep pei'sonal interest in the combatants or the issue of the conflict, to give an al)solutely impartial and trustworthy account of the struggle. Histories ha\'e been written from partisan standpoints, eitlier political or religious, rendering theui merely ex parte arguments. Guided chiefly l)y the effect desired to be [)i'o- duced upon certain questions at issue, their authors have taken but little pains to render their works complete oi- correct as to events not directly connected with their theme, while their mental bias affects the whole; hence, in no respect, are they reliable. This volume is the result of much study of foi-nier histories, [H'inted and written documents, official records, flies of pioneer i)apers in Cali- fornia, Oregon, Nevada and Washington, and the oral testimony of hundreds of the participants in the events nari'ated. H. L. W. PourriANP, OijKtiox, A[)ril 5, ISSO. 9J\l Pace I'Mim- ;^ tor 7f/.sy>a«o?«, road i/i8i>amo/«. Pate 'V line 20. for oomiueHitador, read conua,slador. Page 51'. line 33, for thoufjM, read thou(/h. i»o«o i«ii line ()■ for iS26, read fSsy. Piiffc "03 lino 8, for two, read three. Page 230 line SO, for WUlamctte, read lF«tom«^. Page 2(14 line 20. for PiMicalljj, Kiid publicly. Page 34i», line 20, after the/j, insert not. Page 3o8, line 14, for Bosh, read Itosc,. Page 307, line 34, for Tager, read Far/e/-. Page 475, line 17, for iSsj, read fS6j. GENERAL INDEX, A Abandonment of Kort Walla Walla, W.>. Ahholl, Captain (i. H., HI), 141. Aliernethy, George, ttral ProvlHlonal Governor, if-', 2KI, ffil) to :iVi, 277, 28.'i, -JXIi, ,«)ll, m\, M:. :12I. .tlK, 3.tl-Wllllani, 477. Arlive, V. S War Steamer, 420, W,K Achilles, Captain .1. H . 4r>8 to liW. Adair, .John, It!.'),. 111. Adams— President .John tinlncy and the Ore- gon Ciuestlon, 2(1.'!, 2!l.'i— Point (Cape Froii- doso), SI, 122. .\dmtralty Inlet, 12!. Admission of Oregon to the Union, f!.i2. Adventure, nu\lt hy Ciipt. Gray In 17il2, 121, 12.'. .Vgrlcultural Methods In Pioneer Davs, 177, 'J2S, 250. Agullar— Martin dc. Voyage of, 18— Itlo de los, 4it, (17, Hll, 82, So, 1 18. See inlumbtii. .\litannni River, 4(18. Alarcon, Kernando de, Kxplores the Colorado, .\laska or AUaska— Discovery and Occupation hy Russia, .Vi to (i2, 77, iW— IJapt. Cook's Visit, 87 to 8!)-()ther lOn^Ush Voyages, 9li, I2S- Spanish Vi)yage, 102— Ru.sslan Title, l.i.t— !• ur Traders and .Natives, I4S to l.iO— Islands, !!■!, i).->. .\lava, Gon. Jose Manuel d', Spanish Com- mandant at Noolka, 128, 1211. Alhany, Propo.sed for Capital, ;1I7. Alh<(tn).i.i, American Vessel, ll.'i, 14li. .VIcorn, Capt. Miles K., 308. 101, 4(«, !:«. Alden— Capt. B. It., .'I'SO, 3,i:i to .'fw— Camp, .%i7. Aleutian Islands, (il) to 02. 88, 102. Algear, Pioneer ol 1810, 2;)2. Allen, James, 2Sii. Alpowa River, 141, 210, iW, 471, I7.i. .\lta California, «4. Alvord, Major U. S. A., 3:«, .'IW, .ifil. Ambrose, Indian Agent, 4.(4. American— Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 208 to 221, 201, 273, 30.')- Fur Com- pany, 1!«) to 201)— Ulver, 103, .■i2«— .Settlers and the Hudson's Hay Company, 230 to 2:17, 241— Society for the Settlement of Oregon, 223 to '22."). See Krploriilions, Anderson— J. Patton. !M:l-Levi, 3"i0, :!.5.'), 478. Angell, Martin, Death of, llr2. Anian, Fabulous straits of, 22 to 28, :).'t to 37, 40, 44, >W to r>7. Hee NorUiwenl Pansaye. A pplegate— Charles, 27.'!— Creek, Siege of, 40-2— KUsha L.,2«l,. '151 -Emigrant Route, •2i)S,30-2— Jesse, 273, 282, 28(1, 287, S»8, .'««, .'1.50, ;t.55— I.lnd- say, 273, 208. Applesecds and Trees brought out in 1817, ,'iOl. AranzazH, Spanish Vessel, 117. Archipelago. See Aleutian, tirnur/hlon. King Oeorge TIT, Lazarus, San Juan. ' Arctic Ocean (North Sea), 10, 33 to 35, 40, 70, 77, 80, 88, 89, 131. See also Xorth Sen. Argonaut, F.ngllsh Vessel, 105 to 100. Armstrong-Maj). A. N., 40«, 413, 427-Plensant, Death of, ,')5(i. Army. See ReffiUam. Arteaga, Ignacio, Voyage of, 1)1. Arthur, Daniel, Robert and William, 275. Ashhurton Treaty, 204, '270, 203. ARliley,Gen. W. H„ Fort, Lake, 101, liH. Asslnlbolne River, (!fl. Astor, Jolin Jacob, 140, lOi to 107, 100. .\storia— Founded and Sold to PIngllsh Traders, 1.53, 1511, 100, lai Surrendered to the United States, 100 to KiS- Abandoned by Hudson's Hay C'ompany, 175, 'Ji<— Postofiice Estab- lished, 310— Custom House l-'.stahllshed, XtSi. .\sunclan Inlet, 81. See C\itiiml>iu. Atiial)asca Iiake and River, 131. .Vtklnson, Rev. (!eo. H., 170. Atreilda, Spanish Vessel, 115 Augur, Capt. C. ('., 408, 111, 113, 114. Avatscha Ba.v, 57, 8:1. Avery, , I, C, 288. j .\yala, Juan de. Voyage of, 70. n Babcock— A. D., 350, .'1521 .;-Dr. J. I/., '2:i2. 213, 244 2.51 , •2.>i to 2>5, '277, 281 , 082. Batlln's Hay, .'13, 77. Halley-H.,.'{77— Capt. Joseph, .'t!HI, 432-Dr. Wm. J., 220, ZW, -243, "244, '277, 281, 285, ;«M, 470—7,. 377, Baker— Andrew J., 275— Hay, 1'20— Col. K. 1). 2(12. —John O., 275— Mount, 12;t. Balboa Discovers the Paclllc, 10. Barclay— Captain, 07— Sound, 07. Harkwell, .M.C., 354, Barnes-Captain, 431, 44.5-l,ieut. D. P., 31 1. Barnum, Gen. K. M , 3.51 , .'1(«. Barrows, Dr. Wm., 271. Bates House Massacre, 350. Battles— -Vpplegate Creek, December, I8')5, 402— Applegate and William Creeks, 185), '154— Hnttle Creek, .\ngust 24, 18i53, ;V)(i— Big Bend, ia52, 3.30— Big Butte Creek, I)eceml)er 24, 18.55, 401— Big Meadows, May 27, 18,50,443 to 440— Bloody Springs, Octol)er .'to, 18.5^), .'«Hi— Burnt River, July 12, ia50. 401— Canoes off Rogue River, .\prll, 18.5(), 44i— Cascades, March 20, 18.50, 448 to 4.54— Chetco and Pistol River In- dians, 440, 44'2, 445-Coiiullle River, 1851, ;W0- Coqullle River, 18.5(), 411— Deer Creek, Dec. •2, 18.5.5, 401— EiRlit- Dollar Mount.-vln, March, 1850, 435— Galice tJreek, Oct. 17, 185.5, .3a5— Grande Ronde, July l(t, 18.50.4.50 to 4(il-Grave Creek Hills, Oct. 30, 1A55, .'SOU— Hungry Hill, Oct. ;», 1855, ,300— Illinois River, March, 1850, 441— John Day River, 1&5(), 317— Makanoote- nal Rancheria, Marcii, ia5t(, 411— Meadows, April, 18-50. 437— MedicalTiake, Sept. 1, 1*58, 473-Mili Creek, Sept. 10. 1850, 405— .Murphy's Creek, Jan. '2, 18.50, 403-1'lne Creek, April 17, 1858, 471— Port Gamble, Nov. 20, 1850, 408— Red River Settlement, 1810, 171— Nesqually. Apr. 1850, 4.5(i— Rogue River, Nov., 18.5.5, 400— Rogue River, March 27, 18.50, 441— Rogue River, May 28, 29, :«), and June 0, 18-50, 44-5— .Sand Hollows, March 1, 1848, 3l4-.satas Creek, April 17, 185«, 420— Slmcoe Creek, Oct. 0, 18.55, .'i.S8— Steptoe's Defeat, April 17, l.'i5S, 17i— Table Rock, 18,51, 3'W-Table Rock, l.s.5;i, 355— Touchet River, 1848, 31()— Two Bnttes. Nov. and 10, 1*55, 408 -Walla Walla, Doc. 7, 18V), 414 to I'iJ— White River, Nov. 18.i5, 42*1— Williams Creek. Dec. 28, 18.55, 40'2- Yakima River, Nov. 8, 1&55, 407 Battle Rock, at Port Orford, 339, 440. Bay— See Avatscha, Baffin's, Baker'.i, BelUngham, Bodega, Deception. Drake's, Hudion's. Hum- boldt, Neah, San Francisco, Shoahvater, 7Vi'n- tdaii. VI iriSTOHY OF (>I{E(iON. Ileaiiluvrnols, Flrnl Name ol' Moiifaiia, 71). IVf/rir— Amorleaii Vessel, lUU— Money, :(:{(). licers, AlaiiNoii, -.'Itl, i')l, 'SA, iTjU, •-■77, &2. Ilflirliitf— Isle, oil-Sea, .")7— Htnilts, r>7, ss, wi— Vitus, Vi)ya«es of, .'17 to 'iH. Hell, (leorne \V'.,:;2S. Hollainy, CJeorue W„ 2111. Belle— Lake, IJ— steamer, l.")I. lU'lllUKhaiii Bay, 12'l, Ijn. Hellln's Wonderful Chart, 711. Kelt, Surgeon .\. M., i;tl. Bennett— Captain Charles, aci, -(OS, 4i:i '.o liii- Fort, 4J0-iJaptaln George W., 31 1. Benser, Captain. Brings Cattle to Oregon, ^Ull. Ilentincic Arm, North, l.'U Benton, Senator Thnmas H.— Works for ( jregon In Congress, 21."), '-'Ki, 322 to .l'.'?- Letter to Ore- gon I'loneers, :!lit, BenyowskI, Count .Maurice de. Voyage of, (il. Barkely. .S'oe Harvlau. Berry Vines and Bushes Brought out In 1SI7. Wl. Bcvln, Lieut J. K., 314. Blddle, ('apt. J., IB-^) to 167. Itlg Bend of Rogue River, 441, 413. Big .Meodows, Battle of, 4IW. 442, 413. Bill for Creation of Oregon Terrltr"'v and State, 21.'), 2Ul.:i24 to .127, :rj2. Billl(|uc, Pierre. 2(i. Blssell, Lieut. U. H. Army, 4."i2. Bltterroot Mountains, 130, 142. 421. Black— Survivor of Umpqua Massacre, 1!W— Cap- tain of Riicroon, lti3— Gowns,. «'■« Cnl/zolic Min- slona. Blackfoot Indians, :W2. Blain, Wll.son,3-28, 3«. lllalne, James G.. Statement of the Oregon (.question, 201 to 207. Blair, Pioneer of IS3I), 232. Blakely, Captain, 115. Blanchet, A. .M A. and V. N., Catholic Misslon- arlco, 74, 217 to 220, 2tl, 213, 214, 30.5, 307. Blanco — Cape, 411, 82, 1 111— Rio, see Fnisi'r Jilvcr. Blankenshlp, MaJ. George, 4aH to 41)3. Bledsoe, Captain, 4-33, 44.). Block Flouses— .\t Cascades, 400, 448, 4.'il, *">2-On Pugot Sound, 420— At Vancouver, 4."))— .\t Walla Walla, 4(«i. Hlmsoni, English War Vessel, 167. Blue Mountains, l-'jll, 2S!i, 4.')ll to 462. Boat. See i'cxsi'l. Bodega— Bay, S3. 127— I'ort, l'23— y (|uadra (cua- dra), .Juan Francisco de la, Spanish Ex- plorer and Commissioner, 711,82,111, 1II7, 112, 117, 12.3, 124, 128. lioggus, Henry, Road Party of 1816, 2iis. Boise-Fort, 2(1.), 2811, 2«,S, 32:{, .361, 361— .ludge Reuben P., .'Wl, 3.51, liVi'ti-RI ver, .301. Bohin, A. .r., Indian Agent, killed by Yakima Indians, 38(> to 3110, 474. Bonneville, Capt. B. L. K., Trapping Expedi- tions of, 21(2 to 201. Boon. .John I)., :!()0, 3.il. Hoot County. See Mullnomali, "Bostons," irni, 1117,3711. Bradford— Daniel and Putnam, US— Island, 410 to 4.-)2. Bramley, .T. S., 3.')1. Brattaln, .1. H. and Paul, mt, .l")!. Brazil Colonized by Portugal, 2ii. Breck, Lieut. ,1 M., 4.")1. Bridger, .lames. Fur Trader, 201, 206. Bristow, W. W., ;«), 3*>. British Columbia Islands, 03, 0). Brlttain, Daniel P., ,370. Brooke, Bumford and Noble, 3/0, 410, 1711. /Irolher Jonathan, wreck of the, 17.5. Broughton— Archipelago, 124— Lieut. W. R., 118, lai. Brouillet, J. B. A., Catholic Missionary, 30,S, 310, 311. Brown, Lieut. James, 311 -Jetf, i7!)-J., 2i.3, 478— Orus, 27.). Bruce, MaJ. James, 3116, 308, .!!«» to 40.3, 433 to 438, 412, 445. Bryant, Judge William C, 328. Bucarell, Port, 82. Buccaneers of the Spanlsli Colonies, 27, 32, .52 to .54 Buclnman— Col. 1. S. A., Ill) to 116— President James, 206, 3111, .3.52. Buck, \V. \V., .m. Buckley, Capt. W. S.. 451. Bueiia Ventura River, 200. Buenos .Vyros Subdued by Spain, III. Bultlnch Harbor, See Ordu'H Ilarboi: Buoy, Captain, .300, 4:B. Burch— BenJ. F., 2tlS, 31.3, a50, ;V52'.^, 177-Ciiailes, 28;i— s. %a. Burnett, Judge Peter H.. 2:17, 273, 2S2, -Kll, 321 , 32S. Burns, Ilugh, 2.57, 277, •J<2. Burnt River, 461. Burrard Inlet, 124. Burrows, Lieut. ,1. M., 417 to 42(i. Bush, Asahel, a!5, ;i51, 301. 131. Bushey, Captain, 102, 131. Bustamante. Voyoge of, 11.5. Bute Inlet, 121. Butler, Senotor, Opposes Oregon BUI, 32.5 to 327. Caamano— Inlet, 114, 11-5— Lieut. Jacinto, voyage of, 117. Cabrlllo, Juan Rodriguez, Voyage of, 2.5, 20. Calhoun, John C , and the Oregon Uuestlon, 201. Caledonia, New, 141. California, Lower— Discovered and Coloni/.ed, 10. 24, 16, 51— Missions Founded, 61. California, Gulf of, 21, 42, 51. ( nlifornia, Steamship, Si". Calllornia, Upper— Discovered, 2.5— Explored by Drake, 30— Reported Rich in Gold, 31, 51— Supposed to be an Island, 50— Explored l)y Spanish Navigators. 2.5, 46 to 48. 78 to 82— Colonization of, 51, 61— Missions founded, 61 -Visited by tUipt. Cook, 81 to 86; by Van- couver, 118— Visited by .Vnierlcan Trappers, 182 to 101, 201, 202; by Hudson's Bay Com- pany Traimers, 110— Cattle Procured from, 210 to 2!2— Emigrant Trains to, 248 to 251, 27.5, •2X1, '288, '208, 301, SJO-Conquered from Mexico, •JOD-Oold Discovered, 32tl—..\dmitted to the fnl..n.;«2. Camp— .\ Trapper and Pioneer Settler, '2:10. See Allien, Monlgomerji, Stewart, Walla Watia and Furt. Camijalgn- .Vgalnst the Cayuses, 312 to 318— Kearney against Rogue Rivers, .tW— Col. Casey on (/oqullle River, 3;i0— On Rogue River in '5:1, .3.51) to ;i50— MaJ. Haller to Boise, 3(tl-M8|. Hallor to Yakima, 388, 42,5— Grave Creek, 31)6— Rogue River In fall of 1*5.5, 300, 4011- Raines and Nesmith to Yakima, 405 to 100, 42.5— Col. Kelley to Walla Walla, 400 to I2'2— .slaughter to Yakima, 42-5— Maloney and Hayes to Yakima, 425— Col. Cornelius to Snake River and Yakima, 4'27, 428— Volun- teers to Big Meadows of Rogue River, 43H to l.'W- Rogue River In Spring of 18,56, 4:13 to 146 -Col. Wright to Yakima, 4.55— Col. Hhaw to Grande Ronde and Walla Walla, +57 to 467— Col. Steptoe to Walla Walla, 4ft3 to 467 —Col. Wright to Walla Walla in Nov., 18.56, 467— Col. Steptoe to Spokane, 470 to 473— Col. Wright to Spokane, 473 to 475. Campbell— A. J , 'Wl, .155- Hamilton, 2:12, 251, :i3l, 3.50-J. G., 282. Canadian Boundaries, 0.5. Canal. See Hnro, Rosario, Hood. (Janyon Mountains, 290,30:3, Cape. See Adams, Blanco, CUusell, DUiappoinl- meni, Falcon, Flattery, Fortunas, Frondnso, Qooil Hope, Orrgory, Hancock, Hoin, Icy, Loohmit, Mendocino, Martinez, North, Orford, Perilx, Prince of Wales, San Lucas, San H ique, San Sebiistlfin, Shoalwater, Tillamook. Capital— of Oregon, 251, '2.57, '28:3. 328, 336, 342, .345 to 310-of Washington, :343. Capitana, Spanish Vessel, 48. Captain John, Nez Perce Chief, 459 to 46:1. Carmlchael, Trapper and Pioneer Settler, 2.30. Carpenter, Dr. W. M., 313. Carson, David, 280. Carter, W. D , :i'15. Carver, Capt. Jonathan, .lourr . j o , 72 to 71. UKXKRAr, IXDKX. VII :U8- ;l:!l, » 'hsi'IkIbh— oC tlin Coliiiiihiii, |!17, III I, IH to 111— IiidluiiH, 2'.1l, 'J.VS, 147 lu IVI— .MdiiiiIuIiih, l'.1l, l:!7. ('uKf, Wllltttiii M.,l!!<S. CiiKey, Col. I'. H A., Itltl, 42f^ \M. < 'ution, K. <;. mid .lames, ".n.i, 2«i), is'2, Ciithay of Murt'o I'olo, l«, 2S, M. ( 'iithoil(^ .Missions In Oreiton, L'l'i, 'JI7 to '.".'I, "iVi, Ml, .-Id.'., .-tlW, :il(l, .'II I, .<W'.', 4711. ( 'utile 111 I ireKoii, -iX, -ZM, -m. CiiiiseH 111 liiaiiiii W'nrs, .110, :mi-) io .■t7.'), TOl to :W(i, mt, •mi Cuvallo, .Iiiun, Knr Truiler, iw, 101, l(k'>. Cave— .laiiieK. ;M')— Ulley, 27."). ( 'uveiullsh, 'I'liiis., Kiiitllsli Kreebooler, .1'.'. 'W, .">2. Cuyiise— IniliunH, UO, 21.1, L'l.'i, •ilii, .to.", to 3\H, :WI, 400 10 IIH, lii), 4'iH, tmt, 470-.\las»acreof Whit- man, .'«6 to:ilL'-War with. .112 to ;II8, 4H0. Cedars, Isle of. 21. ( 'ensuH— of 1S12, 470-or im.'i, 2S«-of IHIO, HIM. Chadwlek, Stephen K., ■W), :iVi. chamberlain, Aaron and Adolph, 2S:i, 2Wi, .lOO, .•IIM. 1711. Champ<ie({— niKlrlet, CHI— Settlement, 22S, 212, i'v't, 2.'H, 2.'i-'i, 2S0, :ur>. ( 'hapman. Col. \V. W., 27.'), an, :iw, 4.s:l, l.il, m. Charges agalnsl (ien. Wool and Col. Wright, I 42?), 4(18. Charles \', of Spain, 17, 21. ('harlevo, M.,2l:l. CImse. H. .M., .{70. Vhalhnm, Kngllsh Vessel, IIH 'o I2S. Chemeketii. Nfe Sitlem. Chenoweth, Cascades Chief, Hanged, t.')2. Chetco Indians, 440, )42. Il'i. Child, First White, Horn In (iregon, l.Vi. t'lilll Con(|iipred, 10. Cblmlkain. See Tnhimlkain. Chinese, KIrst on I'aolflc Coast, liMi. Chinn, Ma^l. M. A., 40(1. 107, 411, 4l:(. Chinook-Indians. 122, l:W, Uli, litl— Town of 312. Chlpewyaii, Fort, IMl. Cibola, Mythical City of, 2."). CIpango of .Marco Polo, IK, 2;!, .11. Clackamas Iilstrict, 2SI. Clark--(Jeii I'.s. A., l7.f-Uansoni,27."), 2Stl. Clarke— See Lewis and Clarke-County Created, .Wl-Fork of the Columbia, 71. l.frt-Kcv. Henry, 2:i2-,I<)hii. Fur Trader, liil. Hit. I 'lassctt. Cape See h'ltiltern. Clatsop— nistrlct, 2S()— Fort, l.!S- Indians, I'W- Spit, :M0. Clayou()Uot Harbor, llii, 121. Clearwater River, liiO, 211, 421. ciei)denln,.T. s., 3l.). Clerke, Capt. Charles, Voyage of, HI loSll. Coast— Indians, 1:18 to 4«, 4).'i— Keservatlon, 110. cockstock, Molalla Chief, 270. Cod Fishing Myth, 2t)t. Coeur d' Aleno— Indians, 421, 470— .Mission, :S0l>, 424, 474. Coe, h. W., H« to 1.52. Coffin, Capt. S., 4,54. (•olnelt, Capt., Voyage of, IiB to IftS. (;olorado Ulver, 21, 25, ,50, 101, 104. Columbia— Bar, 1.52-t;ity. ;m— County, 311— River, .50, 07, 71 to7:l, SO, 82, 8.5, 00, 100, 1 10 to 122, 120, 127, 137, 14.5, 18.3, 128, 448 to 1-51— River Fish- ing and Trading Co., 204— Territory. Nee Wdxhinatoii. Columbia lieiliviva, Capt. Gray's Vessel, 101 to 1'22, Columbian, First Newspaper in Washington Territory. 313. ( 'olvUle-Fort, :«'2, 384, .380, 124, 470 -Indians, .-102, 424, 4,5«-Mlne8, im to aS((— Mission, .300. Comcomley, Chinook Chief, lfl3. Commissioners of Indian War Claims, 470. Conasset. Mythical Town of, 42. Concepcioii, Spanish .Vessel. 114. Contllct •'■■•ween Catholic and rroteslaiit Mi.^- slons, 217 to 221, •2.17, 258, 281, 30.5 to 311. C'ongress— Makes approplat ion for fiverland E.\- pedltlon In 18()3, 134— Dlsous.se8 the Oregon (iuestlon, 179, 180, 224, '292 to 297— Kxpels Kritlsh Subjects from the Territories East of the Rocky Mountains In 181.5, 190— Neglects to F/ncourage ScttlemeDtH of Oregon, 24.5, '24(1, •2(11, 319- Passes the Oregon BUI, .■}24 to •Mil— .\dmlls (Iregon to the I'lilon, •'ir>2. ,SVv hIm, Oclei/iile, Hi'iuilor and Hein-fmiildliie. Conser, .liicob. .'1:13. Constitution, i^lgnatures of the Framers, ;i.52^j. Constitutional— Conventions, '251 to '257. 2H0, .'442, :H4. !l5(k-Klectlons, '25(1, '287, :!M, .'14(1, :I49, :l.5l. Controversy between (iovernor Stevens and (Ien. Wool, :t8», .'HIO. 121 to 4'2.5, 4llt to 408. ConvenHon— at Montlcello for (irguiilzatlon of WaHhlngton Territory, 313— At Sprlngtleld, 111., and Cincinnati, (ihio, for Settlement of ( Iregon, 2(>'2. Sie alio Omnliluliondl. ('ook--Aiiios, 210, 477— Capt. .las.. Voyiiuo of, 02. 82, 81 to 91— .lames, 2't'2. Cooks Inlet, 88, 08, 128. Coombs, Nathan, '240, 250. Coos County, .'H4. Coppermine Ulver, 70. ('i)(|iillle River, 441. C ■ lus, Col. Tliomas R.. 407, l(J<,413 to 4:!'2,4I7. Con. .. r, Mn.i. N. A., 411, 113 to i:f2. Corn v . ', New, r27. Corona. ..J, Franclsi-o Vasijups de, K.xpcditloii of, T). Coripreal— Oasper, Hlscovcrs Labrador, •.:2— StraHs, 22. ortez- ilersiant'odu, Coni|Uprs Me.xleo, 10- l''..\- plores the Pn-IHc Coast, 21 -Sea of, 21. CorvallH, Town of, :!.33, :I4.5 to :t40. Corvan, 'roreblo domes de, N'oyage of, 47. I'orwin. Thomas, .Speech In the C S. Senate, 1^5. Couch, Capt. .lohn H., 285, :1'28, 470. Couiicil-at Fort Walla Walla. 31'2—.\t Hlg Hend of Rogue River, .'Ml— At Table Rock, 'W to .'1.59- At Fort Boise, 3«l— At Walla Walla, The Malles. Colvllle and Flathead Valley, :WI to :«3— At Wa'.lii Wallo, 4(H 407 -At dak Flat, 112— of the Indies, :il'!i!. See tilno Treat//. Cow Creek Indians, :mi, 401. Cowlitz— Ml.sslon, '((Hi- Settlement, '2:^4, 'i'r?. Co.\— .\nderson, :«)4— .Icsse, .•1.50, :152U— .Joseph, :«l, .'V)2'i;— Thomas and Wllllani, ■sni. Coyle, Reuben s., .').50, ;!.51. (Jozlne, .Samuel, '27.5. Craig— l).W.,;l.51— Col. William, .\merican Trap- per, 232, '277, ::0S, 4.'iK, 40.5. Crawford-Mavld, 283, :!1 l-Medorem, 2ls, '277, .30:t, :«I4. Crelghton. I'apl., 111. crescent City, I'al., 440. Crooks— .John T., .'t-TO. :t->5, 170- Ramsey, Fur Trader, 1.57 to 101, '202. Cuadni. Nie Jioflrf/ri !/ Qwiilra. Culia Coiuiucred. 10. Culver, Samuel H., Indian .Vgent, .3.58. Curry, (iov. George I,., :««, 3'l to ;140, ;i54, .'{.57, :t(!l, :iii:!, .'1.8.8 to ;!!HI, :!ol, 405, 100, III, 41'2, 423, 4:10 to 4:!2, 477. Curtis, Mout., 4(iO. Custom House Established at Astoria, 'B!. Cutmouth .lolin, Cayuse Indian, 31S. I> Daeddlim, English Vessel, 1'21, 120. Dalles. .S>'»; Tlie Ditllen. Darlo, B., .ill. Dart, Dr. Anson, Superintendent ol Indian Altatrs, :!:i8. Davidson, Lieut.. U. S. A., 448. 4Bti. Davis— Capt. H. W , 45l-.Iefrerson C, opposes the Oregon Bill, :^24 to :f27- (apt, John, Voy- age of, .52— Gov. John W.,:HI, ;14.5— Straits, ,52. Dawson, V. W., '27,5, ■280. Day— John, the Hunter, 1-57 to IflO— Lieut, ;!88. Dayton, Town of, :M1. Deadv, Judge Matthew P., 311, ,3-50, :1.51, Xi2%, :i.58, ;il!t. Debt, Indiivn War, 475 to 477. 'leceptlon— ,liay. Ser OiUnuhia /iircr— Passage, I'if. Deer Lodge River. l.'Ki. Defiance, Fort, 110. DeLacy, Capt., 469 to 46:!. De L'Isle, a French Geographer, 08. Delegate to Congress— J. Quinn Thornton, -321— Joseph L. Meek, 322— Samuel R. Tburstou, .%1,3, :W-Jo8eph Lane, :t.'!7, 344, ;14((, a50. VIII HISTOUV OF OKKGOX. Ilemer*, Father Modeste, i!17, 22U, aw, 3fti. Dent, Capf., U.S. A., 47;). De.sCluites— Indians, .'iM, ;W2, rM. 160— River, ;1U. 1 )e8ertlon of IT. H. Troops, ;«(), .■!31, DeStnet, Katlier Peter J., 2:12, 281, .mi, DeSoto Discovers the Mississippi, 2(1. Uesl'aii, Pioneer American Settler, 2:{U. Destruction— Island, 80, «8, 120— Klver, '.W. Dlinnilck, A. K., aOl Disappointment. See Hancock. DlscovervofOold— In California, 329— In Oregon, :i;iO— Near ColvlUe, :«4. Discovery— Port, 12:!— English Vessel, 84 to 90, 118 to 128. Division of Oregon, 312 to in'), 349. Dlxon-Channel, 117— Capt., Voyage of, 9.5. Doll!/, First Vessel built on the Columbia, lo". Dolores. See Destruction, Dominican Missions, IH. Donation r,aw Proposed, 240, 2fil. Donner Parly, the Ill-fated, 298, Donplerri, D., 243. Dorion. Pierre, lo7, 1.59, 104. Doty, N. U., 28.3, 314. Dougherty, William M., 232, 251, 2S2. Dougla.s— County, 337— ,Iames, Chief Factor Hudson's nay Co., 311— Stephen A., 322. Drake—Kay, 3i)l—Sir Francis, Voyage of, 28 to .32, 73. Drewyor Uivor. Sfa Puliiiiac. Drunimond, .sir William, 21.3. Dryer, Thomas .1., Founder of the Oipiinniim, .335, 3")0. 355, .303, 391, 12.'. DuHoy, .lohn B., 480. Duncan, L. .1. ('.,350, .351. Dunglness, N'ew, 123. Dunlap, ,1., .333. Dunn, ,Ino., .\uthor of Hook on Oregon, 235,21.5. Dupratz, I.apagc, French F,.\plorer, (W. Kast India Company, 91, !Hi. Katon, Charles and Nathan, 275. Kbhert, George W., 2.32. I'Ibbotts, S(iulro, 257. 'In. F'-ilgcunib, Mount, 82,87, 115. Education, 177,209,2.50. .Vec MimtiitnK. Edwards, P. I, , 20S, 217, 237— Diary of, iiO. Eells, Rev. Cushlng, 21 1, 20.5, 277. F'.ighl-Dollar Mountain. Battle of, 4.35. KlecUon-lNI3, 2.50-lSll, 281—181.5, 28.5-1810, :tt)0— l.S47,:)03— 1818, 301 1819.333-18)0, 335—1851, 337 — 18.5!, 314-18,51, 311-1855,31(1— April,. lune and October, 18.56, .348, 319— ,luno and November, 1857, 319 lo 351—18.58, 351. Kli.sa, Ijieut. Francisco, Voyage of, 114 to 117. Kikins, l.uther, .350, 355. Kills, Ne/. Perce Chief, 258. Kmlgraiit Routes, 2IS, 274, 277, 283, 289, 298, 302. Emigration to Calll'ornla and i ii-egon, 180, 222 to 221. iS'ce Iinmii/nition. lOmmons, I, lout., V. S. N., 211. Engent, Lieut. .lohn, 313. Eiigllsh-Capt. Levi N., 2SS. 314 to 317-Misrcpre- sentallon of Oregon, 23-5. Encenada. Sfr Amincidn, CWwiano, Ileceta, Enos, an Indian, |.3S, 411, 41(1. Entradado Perez, 117. Epidemic among tlie ('ayuses, ,30,8. Ermatingor, Francis, 210, '!<), Eniuette, a Trapper, 21ii. I'iugerie City, 317 to 319. Eustua, Lieut. , lohn, 4(il. Evans'- Creek, llattle of, .350— Ferry, 371, 30;), Everett, Edward, Minister to England, '291. Ewlng, F. Y.,217. Execution. ISce Jlniuiini/. Executive Committee of Provisional Govern- ment, 254 to 257, '281. E.xpedltlon. Sec Alnrcnit, Jionneiitle, a)n>nado, Kinmonx, Frnnvr, Fremont, French Friilorcm, Hnniiii, Heiirnc, Hunt, Lcicin and Clarke, Mackenzie, AfcLeoit, Mlcliaiu, Ot/den, Pike, iSmilli, i'erendri/es, fVilkct, Wiieth, Younu. ."fee aim ./ottrae.u and \'i>!/riyc. Explorations- by England, 21, '28 to .'t.3, 37 to 41, .52 to .Vi, T2 to 77, 83 to 'M, 93 to 11'2, 118 to 129, 131 to lai, 141, 150, 162 to 168, 1011 lo 171, 11)9 -France, 24, fl« to 72, 18, 115-Holland, 24, ,^3- Portugal, 22, ;« to 36, 98— Russia, .56 to 62. 93— Spain, 18, Si to 27, 33 to 36, 37 to 41, 45 to .51, 77 to *}, 91, 101 to 112, 113 to 115, 117 to 118, I'JIt tfl 125, 127 to 1211-rnlted States, 100 to 108, 115 to 117, 1'2() to 122, 143 to 14,5, 145 to 168, 189 to 2IKi, 214, 277. Falrweather, Mount, 87, 93. Falcon. See Tillamook, Falls. Sec Miasiniri, Willametle, Faralione Islands, 43. P'arrar, Capt. William H., 31-5, ;W0, :»2,>^ 413. Fanhion, Steamer, 451, 153. Favonta, .Spanish Vessel, 91. Felice Adventure, English Vessel, 98 to 101, 10.5. Fellows, Lieut, and tiapt. A. M., 419. Ferrelo, Bartoloine, Voyage of, 2.5 to '28. Fldalgo— Island, 11.5— Lieut. Salvador, Voyage of, 118. Fields-Calvin M., Death of, .370— Pioneer of 1817 Krings Sheep to Oregon in 1817, .301. Flfty-fourforty or tight, 2'i5, 262, '289, 291, 291. Filipiano, Spanish Ves.sel. See San Carlos, Finances in Pioneer Days, 288, 821. Financial History of the Indian Wars, 475 to 477. Fitzgerald, MaJ. in U. S. A., :m, .'176, 309. Fitzhugli, Solomon, .'150, 354. Fitzpatrlck, Thomas, Fur Trader, 202, 218. i Five Crows, Cayuse Chief, '259, 308 to 31,5. F'lags of Schooner Shark, 3(K). I Flathead Indians, 70, '208, 2H1, .182, 179— Mission, 1 232, 306. Flattery. Cape, 79, .S6, 121. Flavel, Capt. George, 310. I Flemmlng, .lohn, 288. Fletcher— Chaplain, Romances of, 30— Francis, '2.W, 219, 277. ■ Flood of 18-53, 311. Florida, lioundarles and Purchase of, (fc5, i«8. Flowers brouglit In 1817, .101. Foiry, .M. 0.,'28(l, Foiite, .Vdmlnil, Voyage of, 42, 8'2. Foot, .Senator, Siiecch against Oregon Rill, .326. Ford, Ephraim,.Iuhii, Marcus, Nathaniel, Nine- vuh and .Minrod, 275, 282, 281, 28.5, 286, .'101, 3.31. Forest -Lieut., V. S. N., 469— .lohn M., 289. Fort. .SV'c Aihle,!/, Anforia, H.'nnett, lioise, Chipe- irt/an, ('Idlsup, Colvltlc, Defiance. Oeorge, Gib- raltar, Hall, llaiis, Henrietta, Henr.u, .Tones, Lamerick, Lane, Leland, Pill, Sleilacoom, Ta.i/lor, Cmiii/iia, Vancouver, Walla \V<illa ( ]Vallnla), ]Va.ihini/ton, ]\'llliams. Fortiinas, ('al)o de, '26. Foster, Philip, 277, 2'11, 2S.5. Fountain of Youth, 18. Fowler, Capt. W. W., 1.51 to 360. Fox, Victim of Rogue River Massacre, -376. Franciscan .Missions, 01. Eraser- River ("I'acoutcliee-Tassee), 121, 131, 132, 111— Simon, .louriiey of, 1.32, 144. F'reebooters, '27, 32, .52, .5.1. Fremont, Lieut. .lohn (\, Expedition of, 191, 277, 1.18. French -Camp, '201-Prairle, 228, 2:11, 219, .306. Frondoso. .See Adams. Frost, Rev. , I, H„ 212. Fruit, Pioneer trees, 177, 301. Fuca. Juan de. Straits and Voyage, 37, 79, ,S0, 86, 97,99, 10.S, 114, 117, 118, 122. Fur C'ompanles. .Vee American, Hudson's liau, h'lnp (Jeori/c's Soitiid, Misaourl, Xnrlhu'e.il, Pacific, Rockfi Mountain, Russian Arnerican. Fur Trade by Land and Sea, 51 to 5(1, (10, 89, m to 10.5. 131, 141, 147, 169 to 178, 186 to 206. (i Galnes-A., 3(M-Oov. .John P., .'I'll, 33.5, ,'l't8, .•M2, 316,362. Gale, .loseph, 2.56, 277, '286 479. (iailano, DIonesio. N'oyage of, 118, 123. (Jallce Creek, Siege of, 3(15. Gallatin, American Coinmlssioner to England, 181, I8.'l. (lama, Vasco do. Voyage of, '22. Ganaevoorl, Capt., V, S. N., 126. GKNKRAL INDEX. IX GniTlson-Llout. A. K., :iU. ITI-t— Capt, .1. M., 27.'), 28li,:!14,47H. Gary, Hov. George, 'Ml Gaston, Lieut. William, 471, 474. (Jay, GeorKe, tJfi, ao, 250, 2">:t, 277, 47!i. Gearry, r^pokane I'hief, 474. Geer, .1. ('. and Kalph, ;i01. Gelger, Dr. William, 2:^2, 2<W, 277, 2K2. Oelston, Capt. H., .•!21. General WaiTcn, Wreek of 111 e, Hit!). George— Capt. Abel, 4:t4, 43(1— Fort, Ift! to KiS, 17r). Nee ^.?;ortrt— Point, ir)4—Hogue Ulver Chi ', ;)74, -.Wt, 4:!5, 44!, 44.5. Georgla-Giilf of, lOS, 114, 12!-New, 12i}. Gerlrudls, Spanish Vessel, KKI. Gervals— B., 82«-,Ios('i)h, 22(i, 214, •i")2, 2.V!, 28(i, 4S(), Ghent, Treaty of, Kil. Gibraltar, Fort, 171. Gibson, Llent., f. H. A., .•!!I7. (Jllbert, I. X., 2S4, .Sl.l. GllUam-Col. Cornelius, 2s;!,.!l:i to H17-Mltchell, ->M, .111. Gllmore, Mat, 27,5, 2S2. Goff-navld, 2S4, 2(t8— Clipt. .\r. I'., 4W to 40:!, 4(1.5. (loin (Goln«), William, Killed by Indians, S74. (told— Beach, Lis to 44(l-lilutr K.xcltement, 7!l —In Calll'omla, .tl, :tai-In Montana, 7(»-ln Oregon, ICU), :!:r7— In Washington, 2X1. (ioodnll, Capt. J. P., :t.5l. Good Hope, Cape of, '22. Goodhue. Samuel, 2!1S. Goodwin. Lieut., 4.5it to 4IW. (Jordon, Captain, :««•, 4;«. Government. See Prorincitil uiul Tiriiloriiil. Governors of Oregon, 25(1, 2S1, 2S.5, 2sn, :!27, .Cit, .■)ll,.l51-Wasliington, :!l:!. (irnnde Konde— Hlvcr and Valley, 1511, 'JI7— liat- tie, 1.5ii. Grant, Captain, H. I!. Co. Agent, 21S, 271. Grave Creek, :i!i I -.Massacre, l«l, :i.5!i. (Sraves, ,1. H., :!.(■!. Gray— Ilarljor, 12(i-Capt. Robert, liHi to lOs, llii, 122~W. H., Mls.slonary, 212, 211, •..51,2;5:i, 251, 25(1, 2(i5, 2(i7, 277. 2H2. Great— Falls of the Missouri, (ill, l:l(i--Salt I.aUe, (17, llll^Hlave Lake, 7li, LSI. (ireen River, liH, 2l:i Greenwood, the Trapper, 'HH. (iregg, Lieut., V. s. .\., 172. (Jregory, ('n|)e, I 111. (Jrler, Ma|. William N ,171. (Jrlllln— Lieut, liurrell li., :i.5t-Rev. .ino. s,. il2, ;t;n. Grlmm,.I. W.,.'it!. (Jrover, Lafayette, ;i.5(), :!.51, :i.55, ■■m, I7ti. II Haines, VIelim of Rogue Ulver Massacre, .'(7.5. Hakluyt, the Geograplur, 2il, 41. Hall -Fort, 211.5, 2l:!, 214, 271, 2!«. 2i«t, .T2.S— .lohn H. and Sylvester, .HI— Capt. Lawrence, :!(l(), .ll:) (0 317. Haller, .Maj. G. ()., :t(l2 to 3(14, 3S7, :W2, 3il8, 4()8, 125, lis. Hamilton- I'ldward, 31.5- A Victim of Rogue .liver Massacre, 374. Hancock, Cape (Disappointment, San lioque), sl,im. 11(1, 122, l:i7. Hnnd, Lieut. 4111. Hn.iglng of Indians— by Clarke In IS13, Kil— In Uogue Ulver X'alley In lSi5:t, 3.51— Ily MaJ. Ilaller In 1S^54, 3(>l— At Cascades In IH.55, 452— Hv Col. Wright in 1S.58, 474— Whitman Mur- derers, 318. Hauna, .lames, Kxpedltlon of, 113. Haunon, Lieut., 4111. Hanover, New, 127. Harding, Ilenl. F., 344 to 347. Harding and Rose, killed by Indians, 3.5). Harrngus, 11., 27(1,282. Haro— Canni de Lopez de, 114— Lieut. Gon/.alo. Voyage of, 102 to l(l7-Rlo de, 43. Harris— Captain, 3WI— Massacre, 37.5— .Mosos, 21W. Hastings, L. W., 24H,2;52. Haswell, Robert, Diary of, I Hi, 121. Hatch, Peter H., 277, 2S2. Hathaway, Kellx, 277, 2«.l, 479. Hawaiian (Sandwich) Islands, 8(i, 80, 101, 127, 148. Hawchurst (Hoxhurst), Weberly, 230." Hays- Fort, 4:{.5,4.i(l-Capt. Gllmore, 372, 105, 107. 42.5, 420. Hay II Con<|uered, 10. Headrick, brings Sheep In 1847, 301. Hearne, Samuel, Journey of, 7(1. Heath, Luolen, 351. Heceta— Capt. Bruno, Voyage of, 70 to 82— Inlet. 81, 119. Hedges, A, F., 284, .301. Hellgate River, l.SO, 42.3. Hembree— Capi . A. J., 275, 282, 285, .300, 3(«, .1.33. 408, 428— Andrew, .lames and .L .1., 275. Hendershott, Sidney B.. .3.50, .3.55. Hendrlck, Abljah, 27.5. 28(1. Henncss, Capt. B. L.,4.58 to 40.3. Henrietta, Fort, 411, 413, 410. Henry, Fort, 145, 1.57, 101. Hensley, Thomas .1., 27(1. Herren, William .!., 2so. Her8en,.Iohn, 314. Hill— Almoran,27(l-I)avid, 254, 25(i, l:s2, 28(1, 303, .333— Thomas. AVc Tom Hill. Hlllsboro, 34.5. Hlnes, Rev. fJustavus, 232. 242, 2ti, 2i5l, 2.55, 277. Hlnmiin, .Manson, 284. Holbrook, Amory, 3.34. Holden, Horace, 28.5. Holderness, S. M., 270. .3J8. Holman— I). S , 27(i-.Josepli I)., 284, 3.W. Holme-s— H. X. V., .Til- Will lam L.. 275, 282 Hood— Mount, 12(i-Canal, 123. Hoover, Jaciob, 284. Hope, American Vessel, 121. Horn, Cape, T).!. Hoult, Enoch, .3.50, :V51. Howard, .lolin, 257. Howlson, Commandci' of IT. s. Schooner S'IkiiI:, .300 Howllsli-Wampoo, Cayuse Chief, 410. Hoxhurst. 'See /raiechiii:sl. Hubbard, 'I homas .1., 220, 233, 253, 254, 277, 180. Hudson -Bay, 22, 3.5, ">3, (1.5, 70— Hay Co., 22, .5:1, 51, 7(1, 83, 01, 131, 144. Uifl to 178, 18(1 to 20(1, 227, 234, 211, 255, 200, 208, ,Ti4, ,370, 380, 4()»-(Japl. Henry, Voyage of, .53— Capt. Thomas, 10.5. Hull, Charles W., death of. 402. Humboldt— Bay, 48— River, 2(K). Humbug War, .371. Humphrey', L. A., 3:t3. Hungry Hill, Battle of, 3IMi to .'t08. Hunt, Wilson Price, .lourney of, 151, 1.57, 104. Hunter, Lieut , Kil, 102. Husted, A., 27(1, 30.3. Icy Cape, S8. Idc, William B , 28.8. Illinois River, 441. Immigrating to Oregon, Reasons for, 241, 2(10 to 2(12, 273. I Immigration— 18:10 and 184(1, 2.32, 177— 1811, 215 to 247,477-1842, 2,i.S, 217 to 251, 477-1813, 237, iiN, ; 200 to 270, 3IMI, 477- 1844, 2.38, 283, 477-184.5, 288, ! 477— 1810, 21)7— 1847, ,301,30.3, 478-1848, 470-1852, : 310. I Immigrants and the Hudson's Hay Co., 2iO, 2:11 I to 211 1 Imperial Kaf/le, Austrian Vessel, 07. ' Ineas, Subjugation of the, 20. I Indian— Agents and Huperlntendents, :!.3r), 3.18, ; .344, :t.57, :i.58, .302, .380 to :}S7, 4011, 414, 431, 430, 442, 4.50,402,4114, 407— Ocean, 22-Reservatlons, :l,57, :t80 to :W,3, 4:14, 438, 44ft— Treaties, 258, :W1, .3.38, .358, 3<0 to .385, 400, 412, 447, 407. Indian Wars— Causes of, 2">8, 270— Cayuse, :10.5 to 318-Columbla River, mto to 1858, 370 to :103, 40.5 to 4;«, 417 to 477- Humbug, 371-Puget Hound, :«I7, 420, 108— Uogue River, 18.51, m~ 1852, ,3;w,:i;io— 18.51, :t.>3 to m), 425~ia5i, 301,475 — 185.5-ri(l, :t(1.5 to .370, 104 to 103, 4;t3 to 440, 475- Debt, :i(l(), 475 to 477— Veterans. Nee Volun- teera. Indians. .Ste f Vwcnrfp, Oiyuse, Chinook, Clalnop, Oxuit, Oneiir W Alene, fbic Creek, Diilles, Dea ChiUei, Flalhead, John Day, Klamath, Kliek- X HTSTOKY OK OKKOOX. Hal, Mandan, AIuiluv, MnlitlUi, Xi'Z J'ercc, .\ootka. Northern, Palnunp, Hslnl fiiver, Paget Noiind, Rogue River, Snake, Spokane, Tilla- mook, Tugii, I'matilla, I'liipiiiiri, Walfa ]\'all(i, M'a.ico, Vakima. ludieH, Kast, '22, aii, LT. Indignation Meeting In rorlland in 1S.'>I, .{(tt. Ingalls, Capt. (Oen.) Hufus, 47(i. Ineraham, Capt., 121. Jnlet. iSee Admlrallu, HurrartI, liiile, Onok's, II<- ceta, Knight's, Portland, Hirer.', Smith'x. Ipheuenia Nxtbiuna, Kngllsh Vessel, IIS to 10.5. Irving, Washington, \vorks on Oregon, 152, I.V!, l.j», 'Mo. Isaac 'Ihdd, Kngllsh Vessel, 11)2. Islands, British Columbia and Alaska, '.>;!, tl"). See Aleutian, Hehring'.i, flriidford'-i, C\^ii<irs, Destruction, Farallonc, Fiilttlgo, Jlawiiiitin, King (reorge, Ounalaska, Philippine, Prince of Wales, Quadra, Queen Charlotte, Saud- ivich, San liernardino, San ,/iian, Sauries, Schumagim, Teiada, Vanrourer, Vashon, Whidby. .1 Jackson— county, ;i.!7— David, 1!0, 2()1. .lacksonville. .W, 34.5, .Kt, .tTli. :flM. .lall, Flr.st In Oregon, 2+1. Japan current, '>ll Jeannvtte, American iSchooncr, ;i2S. .lefferson. President Thomas, I.W, IW, l.Vi. JetTreys, Thomas, aw. Jefftlcs, Meut., 11!). .Tennie dark, Htoamer, -l.')!. .Jenny, Kngllsh Hrip, 120. .lennings, It., .ll'l. .lesuit Missions, n4. Jewells Ferry .Vltuckert by Indians, .!;i. Joe Lewis, Indian (Jonsplrator, .KIT to :!11. Joe, Hogue lUver Chief, :ir)7 to Mw. .lohn. Rogue Kivcr Cliief, ^n, .«•.">, ll«. III to HH. John DHy— Indians, .■W2. MKl-IUver, l:«i, liii, 2H!i, 4m-Baltle of. :!17. Joint Occupation, liiS, I.S.5 to 2 Ki. 2!M, •£):,. Johnson— Daniel, David and James, 2K1— over- Ion, 27H,iS2-\Vllilani. 2:ii, 2l:i, 277. Johnstone's .Straits, 121. Jones -Hen, I.W— Capt., 1'. s. \ 11(1 to ll.!-Fort, •'Ml, .IVi— Victim of Hogue liivor .Massacre, M74— John, 27t!, -iiW. Joseph, Nez Perce CI;*ol',:r)S, :!,S2. .Tournaiisni, Sec Sewspapers. Journey. iS'cc Carver, fraser, Jleanic, Lii lion- tan. Lane, Lcdyard, Meek, Overland, Pilrher, Pike, Whitman: see also KroedHion and I'n/i- age. Judali, Capt. H. M , ■KiS, :«ii). Judges of the Provisional Government and Su- preme Court, •2:t.'l. 218, 2.")7, 'JSl, ^K.-), :t2l, .■!2S, :l.t.-|, ■ll't, 311, 3."!l. Judson. Uev. I,. U., 2.'!2, 211, 2.")7, '277. Juinp-olt-Joc Kivcr, \W. K Kaih-Kalh-Koosh HIver. Sie Clearu-ater. Kama-l-akun, Yakima < lii.'f, :wii, :Wlto.!li:l, r.li, 42), 42i), 4')(1. 4.")S, Hi.-.. Kanilah Mission, 211. Kamlchatku, '>H, mi. Kaut/,, Meut. A. V..:ri7, :iii(l. Kayser. See Keizer Kearney, Oen. Phil,;iW Keene, Uranville, Murder of, :>7a. Keeney, Capt. Jonathan, 3'.Ki, 1 1 !. Keith— Capl. b. W'., •2:12— .Vgenl of Northwest Co., 107. Kel/.er, T. D., W2, 270, 2S0, 282. Kelley, Hall J., '221, 22-), '.'■20. Kelly, Col. James K , ;l.Ml,:i."il,:i.')l, 111, in to ir. Kelsay, Col. John, .'W), :!.V>, 4-21, 1.10 to i:W. Kendrick, Capt. John, X'oyago of, IIHI lo II H, I l"i, 110. Kllbourn,3.tl. Killen, 1) , 477. Klm-so-etnlin River. iSV'c Tukannon. King (leorge III— Archipelago, 8'2— English ves- sel, ll.'i—" Men and lloslons," 1110, 11)7— Sound. Ike A'ootA-ei— Sound Co., I).'), 105. King, \V. M.,'«t Kings, River of, 42, 47, 50, 07, m, S7, 1 10, 1 17. KInnev, Robert C, Il'W, ^lO, .'iiio. Klamath— Indians, .■«)'2— River, :t37. Klickitat— Indians, 4tt5, 448 to 4.>1, 4.">'*— Valley 421). Knighton, H. M., 28.5, ".2S. Knight's Inlet, I'il. Knox, ',. n.,31.!. Kone, Rev, W. W., 28'2. Koos-k<ios-kee River. .See Clearu-ater. lialironte, Lewis, aii), 47!) I.abra ' r Coast and Straits, 22, ;!4. Iiidcraul, lladier, or /ania l.iideriHit, 211. I.u'ly Washington, .Vnierican Vessel, 100 to 120. Lai lyette. Town of, 3:13. I.af'amboise, Michell, Hudson's May Company .\genl, 201, 479. LaHontan, liaron. Journey of, 00. Lake. See Ashley, Belle, Great .Salt, O.-eat Slare, Afedical, Mono, Tule, Vclasco, Winnipeg, Woods. Lamerlck— Fort, 4.i8, 442, 44."i-f}en. John K., .•till, avi to .too, ••«)S, 4.31, 435, ^Hi^, 412. 415. I<ancaster, Judge (,'olumbla, 2IK, .'|:|3 Lander, Judge Kdward, 313. Lane-Fort, .iliO, 370, .171, •HIO, 434, ri.5— Gen. Jos., .•f27, .•!2S, :!.31, 3:14, :l:t8, 31:1, 314, :H0, :{.5ii, :r.l, :!5I to :m, 17.5. t.apage River. ,SVe .John Pay. Lal'erouse, Voyage of, 01. Lapwal .Mlssion.211, 215. •25'*, :i Hi, 121. Larl.son, John, •2:^2. I.atshaw, .Mai. \V. L., Ill to |:1S, 115. Lawson, (i. W., 2:12, 210. Lawyer. Nez Perce Chief, 211, :!Si. 173 Layton, Capt. and .Ma.|. Davis, 421, 151. Ml. Lazarus Archipelago, f2. LeBreton, George \V'., 2i:t, '252 to 251, -2.57, '277. 2S I, 170. Ledyard, John, Journey of, 1)1. Loe-Harton,281, 280— Daniel, 20.-t lo22l-.Mi^. H. A. G., '270. •280, :)I2 to 317— .lason, 208 U> 221, 2:«l, 242, 213, 251, •2.V!, '277, 280. Legislature-- 1st!, -251—1811, ■2S2-I.1I.5. 285 to '288- 1810, :ll)0— IS17. 3 II— 1818. :101-I81!I. 3)3—18.51), :«5 -18.52, 312-18.5.3, 341—1851, :)I5-K5.5, 317— 18V), :)40 1^57, :l.51— 1858, .151, :ri'2. I.cland, Fort, 4:10. 4:!S. L', nl Leoti. or Ihe Prairie Flower, 2:12. Lenox, I), or K.. 270, 280. Leslie, Rev. David. 217, 213, '251, '277. Lewis— (,'ounty, 2so -Hainan ('., .'1.50, :!52'i,— Joe. See .foe //eic;.i— Capt. .Meriwether, l:tl to li:l— Reuben, 210, '257, 277— River. See Snake- capt. William B., :tii>-n. R.. 178. Lewis and Clarke's F.xpedltlon, 1:11 lo li:i. Lexington, on Clatsop Plains, :t:il. Linn -City, 311-Seiuitor Lewis F., 210, 21.5. •240. Linnvilie, II.,:iOI. Llmpy, Rogue River Cliicl,:l7l.:)li5, |:i5, III, 115. LIttleJohn, P. B., il2. Little Meadows 1:10. Lock, Michael, Narrative of. :t7, Logan, David, .'1.511, .1,51. Lolo Trail, I.'IO, 141. Long Dr. John K., 270, 281, 28:1, i;.s5. Looking Olass-Nez Perce Clilef,:l8J-\'alley, lol. Lookout Cape. See Tillamook. Looney, .lesse, '270, :100. Loretto, Mission of, 01. Luring, Col., .'tit. Los Angeles, Port, ill. Lot Whitcomh, Steamer, :i:lO, 311. Louisiana, Province 01,0.5. 71, l:lO, 1:12, 1:14. 141. l,ove|oy, .\. Lawrence, 218, 20:1, 201), 2+2, 2.S.5, 280, •.m, :10I, :«1, :t.50, .3r>4. Lower California, 10, 51, 01. Lownsdale, I). II.. :1IM). Lneler, Ktlnne, 11)0, 220, -."M, '243, '2.5:1, 48ii. Luelling, Henderson, Traveling Nursery of, :)01. LuptoD, MaJ. Jas. A., Death of, :I7: Lydia, Aniericun Vessel, 1:18. (iENERAL INDKX. M Mackenzie, Alexander, Journey of, and Uiver, 131. Madrid, Treaty of, VM. Magellan-Vovagp of, 111— Straits, l!i, S\, 2M. Magistrates. Ifee Judf/es. Magone, .Joseph, ;il2. Magruder, Kd. and Theoplillus, 2'tl, :I2-I, .'I'll. .Vlulesplna, Voyage of, ll.'i. .Vlaldonp.do, Capt. Lorenzo Ferrer de, N'oviige of, ;« to ;«!. Maley, \V., :»'t. Maloney, ('apt. M., .'W7, 407, WH, l>.\ IL'ii. Mandan Indians, lil, IVt. .Maqutna, Nootka Chier.ilS, llii. Marco Polo's Travels, IS Marlon— County, :i.'W— (Jf the Mexican War, :tT. Marple, P. H., m, :iV,. .Marshal. See Unil--U Stalex Mamhiil. Marshall, Jas. W., Discoverer of liold In Cali- fornia, 2M, 3:il. Martin, Col. William J , '.Til, .'t(M, 314, •t.'i.s, 3!iil, :!!H», Martinez— Cape. Sec Flatlpry—F.iiUsnn, Vciyiige of, 78, lO-i to 107. Mary, Hteamer, SXi, 44H to 4.>'i. Mary Dacret, American brig, 204. Mari/land, American brig, 244. Mary's Hlver. See Humboldt. .Marysville. fiee CorvalCh. Mason, Oov. Charles H., 343, :184, ;W«, 40-), ii'i. Massacre -Cove, lit)— ofSmllh's Trappers In IH27, 1!W, im to KW— of Pilcher's Trappers, '201— of Dr. Bailey's Party In l«3.i, ^-iO-of Indians at Oregon City, 2H0— of Immigrants by Modocs, .'ttit-ot Kogue River Indians In IS.'Vi, .'V).'!— of Hose and Harding in 18-")3, .'loJ— at Grave Creek In ia>3, 330— Bates House In lS.-)3, .TiO- of Ward Family by Hnake Indians, 3ill— of Phillips In 1S.-14, .S«!l-of Fields, Cunnlgbam and Werner In iHTyi, :i70— of Hill, Plillpot, Dyer and McCue, in ISV), .'!7l~-ol Indians by r.uptonandHaysIn 18-V>, 372-of Uogne Itivcr Valley Settlers in Wr,, 374 to 37«-or .Mattlco and Holan by Y ak I mas, .'W-'i, :i.so, 3!KI— of In- dians in Looking Glass Valley, 40l— of Kogue River Indians In IH.>>, 401— ol Peu-peu-mox- mox, 417 to 4l»-at Seattle, 420 -at (4(>ld Beach, 430— at Cascades, .'I'W to 44H. Nn iilxo Whitman. Matlock, W. T., 32S, :«!. Matthleu, F. X., 248, 2.57, 277, '.S'i, '280. Mattlce, Murder of, :t8.). MatEger, William, :»>. 3>1. Maurelle, Voyage of, 70 to 82, 01. Mauzey, William. 27(1, Maxon, MaJ. H. J. O., 313 to 317, Mc.Vuliff, Lieut. .lames A., 410. McBean-.Iohn, 414, U.5-Wllilam, 311. McBrlde— James, 3'2S— John R., Itto, 3.V). .McCarty, William, 244, •2,")7, '277. McCarver, Gen. M. M., 237, 270, 282, '287, .'ilHt. McClane, John B., '270. McCloud (.McLeod) River, 200. McClure, Joiin, 2?7, '2*1. McCormick, 'Wl, .'tol. McDanlel, Elisha P., '284. McDermIt, Capt. Chas,, 330. McDonald, Angus, 3110. McDougal, Duncan, 1.51, 1,511, 1(10, 1(13. .McFOlroy, T. F., 343. McFadden, Judge O. B., 31'!, 341. McGruder. See Mngrutler. McKay— Alexander, 1.51, 1.5!!, 218, 313-Charlos, 277, 313, 31.5- John, '248- Thomas, 1.51, 10.5, 1!KI, 2.58, •2((.'l, 277, "■-. '"" , lo 317-William ('., 1,51, '2(«,;- .11. McKean, S. r ., :13.3. .McKenzle, Donald, 131, 1(11, \M. McKlnlay, Arclilbuld, •Z58, 2S(). McLaren, Lieut. R. N., 1.54. McLean, Judge John XVi. McLellan, Robert, 137 to 101. McLeod, Kxpedltion of, 108, 21'J. Mctoughlln— Dr. John. 10.5 to 100, 200, '212. 228, 'Jtl, •J3(l, 244, 210, '2.52, 2,50 -Joe, 100, 210-Mounl. ISvc Shantii. m, I.5S to urn. McRoy, (;., 2.5.3, '2.57. McTavlsh, J. Q.. I(p'2, 1(13. Meadows Campaign, .'(90, 4,'!0 to 488, 442. Meares, Capt .John, Voyages of, 05 to 112, 1*25. .Medical Lake, 47.'!. Meek-Joseph L.. 232, 240. 2.51, 257, '277, 281, 285, :iOrt, 3a3, .■!'22, 327, 33:1, :»5-Stephen IL, 248, 280. Meigs, C. R., .'1.50, •■m. Memorial-to Congress In Wil, 2'i't— of 1810,21.5— Ofl8l3,2.50-Cln('innatl in 1843, '202- of '.tregon Legislature In I8.5'2, .'I4;i— of Montlcello Con- vention, :t4.'t— of Cayuses to Americins, 317— to Congress In 1848, .')22— about Gen. Wool, i-£i. Mendocino, Cape, 2(1, 70. 118. Medoza— .\ntonlc de. 2.5— Pedro. 19. Merchfnitman, American Schooner, 3.10. Mctcalf, Robert, Indian .\gent, ;).57. .Methodist M Issions, 208 to '221, •2;tl , 2:12, 2.50, 258, 280. Mexicana, Spanish Vessel, 117, r2'3. Mexico- Coniiuered by Cortez, 10— War with, 205. MIchaux, .\ndre, Kxpedltion of, l.'{4. Militia. Sen Volunleim. .Mlller-Capt. Rluford, i:>8 to 4(.'i-Capt. John F., 351 to.SliO— Jo.seph, 1.5V— Richard, .'W), .1.55. .Mills, Pioneer Grist and Saw, 177, 2'i3, Milton, Town of, .'t'i3. Mllwaukle, Town of, :U'!, 3;i.5, 310. MInto, Jol)n,2vi, 281, Missions, Caliiolic. Sec .Anif i lean liotiril, Call - fnrnta, Coeiir it' Alenc, Dominican, flathead, Fraiieincun, h'leiirh J^rniiic, .Tcnuit, Kamiuli, iMpivai, Lorelio, Melhodixl, Snake Hiver, S/io- kane, J lie Dallcx, l/inritillii, Vancouver, Wrii- latpu, ydAci'nw— Contllctliig interest' and Controversy, 218 to 221, '23?, StU, '281, .ilk' to 311. .Mlssl»8lp|)l River, 08, 72. Missouri— Fur Company, 1 15, 101 — River. Oil, Oi, 00,71,72, 135, 11'.'. Modoc Indians, .'Ml, 300, 301. .Molalln Indians, 270. Moiu'y used in Oregon, 2)0, 288, 3!0. .Mono Lake, 1!I3. Monroe— Doctrine, 180— President, Message of I8'2;t, 180— Judge Victor, 313. Montana Kxplored by the Verendryes, lio, 70— by Lewis and Clarke, 130, 1 12. Monterey Harbor, 47, 31. Montezuma Conquered, 10. Montgomery- Camp, 4.57 Cu|)t. I', .s. N., :U2— Port, 122. Montlcello Convention, 313. Moore— M., '284— Robert, 'J.'U, •2:i't, 213, '251, '277- Lieut. W. A., 300. Moores, Isaac R., 330, 3.54. .Morera's .lourne.v troin Oregon to Mexico in 1.578, 80. Morrlson-J. L., '240, 277, •280-R, W., -281. Moslier, Capt. L. F., 3.5s. .Moss, S. W., '241, 277, 285. .Mount. See JIakcr, Kilgecuuih, Fairweatlivv, Hooil, Mcl.ouiihlin, Olympus, Hainier, Shasta, Siskiyou, SI. Helens, St. Klias, San Jacinto. Mountains, see Blue, Bitter Hoot, Canyon, Cas- caite. Roeku. MucklcHhoot Prairie, 4'20. Mulkey, .1. L., :«)!, 3W. Multnomah— county, 303— Origin of Name. I.'IO— River. See Willamette. Munger, Rev. .Vsahel, '2;i'2. .Munkurs, F. M.,314. Munson.Capt. Lynuin B., IP 117 to 120. Murderers' liarbor, 101. Musselshell River, 70. .Myths of Oregon History, lire Anian, Qtrrer, Cibola, Ii\>nte, Fuc.a, Maldonado, Quivira, Wliitman. Natdiess— Pass, 3(*'2, 107, 125, 4.'i()— River, 1.50. National Jnielligpnecr, Gen Wool's letter in, 380, 423. Neah Bay, 111, 118, 121, 125. Net', .\lexander,.\tley (Olday), Calvlii, George, Peter and Robert, 281. Negro Slavery. See Slavery. Nelson, George and J. C, 'JKU XI r IIISTOKY OF OKK(J0N. N'esinlUi, Oen. James W., -T:!. ;;i i,;Kt, 3H, .'W, -un, h; to ii.-i JS-J. 3i- .11, 11! I. as7, .'J 1 1, Xesciuaily .Mission and Settlement, •-'Ji, iltl. \e\\ — Albion, a», .'il, Tli, s.->, Sti— Caledonia, Ill- Cornwall. I'iT— Dnnginess, 12:{-<ieors;ia, lii, Hanover, 127— Mearket. Her Tumnalfr— Spain l!l, i"). Newli.v, \V. T., l-W.. Newnomb, Daniel, .'(.'jfl, :!."vi. Newell, Dr. Kobert, ai, 2lii, 25:t, i'v4, 277, SG, 2sti, ;!0i), .tni. Newspapers, First in Oregon, :!0i). Setr Colum- bian, Oregiiniaii, Spcctalar, Star, Slati-.tmaii, Times. Ne/. Perce (Chopunnlsh) Indians, l.iii. 111. liil, ■M2, 211, 213 to 21M, 220, 2.">s, :ui!i, :!I2, :W2. lii, 421, j:)7. 4.">H, 4B2, 4(>.'>, 4(>(>, 171, 17:!. .N'iehols— H. »., ■■ir*>, T.")— Henlaniln. .John and Frank, 2S4. Nicholson, I'ioneer of ISKi, 212. .Noble, .lolin F.,'!<>2. Noland, ('apt., HI. Noinen<-latiire of Hie I'ai'ilic Coast, 7S to S2, Sil loHS, !i!l, 12:! to 127. i:«i, lil!i, 2Ji. Nookanils, Newetee Chief, IV!. Nootka- -Controversy, lis to lili— Convention, ill — Fnglisli Vessel, !lii- Indians. .S7. !'>:!— Sound. 7X, .S7, ii:!. !« to nil, Ul:| to Ills, Us, 122. 121. 127 fo 12!l. North— Cape, H«— Sea. See Arctic. Northern Indians Invade I'ufiet Sound. :H17, 42ti, 4(kS. .NortlK-rn (Iregon. Sec M'ashini/lon. ?forthire.it America. First Vessel built on North- west Coast, 101 to 12.">. Northwest -Company, i:!l. 111. l"i(i, 1(12, loo, looto 171— Passage, 21 lois. :l:i to .")0, -c' to .'i7. 71. 70, Si, SO, S7, 111, !>:!, '.I'l, ll"i, 1 17, 127, 1:11. Notre Dame, sisters ol', 2S|. Novus Muiulus (.\inerioa). 22. Nuevo Hispanola (.Me.xieoi, I'.i. Nunez Uaona, Porto. Sec .Vr«/i Jluii. Nursery, 'I'rHveiing of, 1S|7, :!01. (I Dak Flat Council, 112, 111. Oak Point, 140. Oatnian. 11. It., :r70. OBryant, H. |).,:il:l. Ocean. See Arctic ami I\icific. ot11<'ers of Oregon Provisional liovernnienl 1S4:I, 2.")!, 2i7— ISI4,2S1, 2'i2— Isl"), ■js.'i-isio, :liii, 1S47. ;!IW-1S4S, :U)I, .,2S— Territorial (Jovern- inent, ISIH, :i2S, .tt.!— IS-'iO. :!:i.-.-l.s.-.l, .il?- LvVl. :1H— ISM, ;il.">— Slate (JoverninenI, isw, :i)l — of Washington, First, .li:). Ogden— Peter skeen, ;iNi,. {12— Itiver. .SVp Ilum- boldl. Okanogan Fort and Itlver, l.">7. Okotsk, Gult of, .'17. (Md .John, Ho^ue Pivert hief, :j.'il. Olds, M. or \V., .Wl, .tV.. Olley, Ke\'. .\. P.,2!2. Olney— .ludge Cyrus, .'!ll,:!."m, :rr>— Nallian, 310, .302, 4IKI to 41.">. Olyiiipla, 34:!. Olympus, .Mount, 7S, 12il. o'Aleara, James, :l'il. O Neal, Capt. Hugh, Kt!, |:!:ilo 1.3"). O'Nell, James A., 22.1, 2M lo 2)0. Ontario, American War Vessel, 10."), 107. Orchard, Port, 121. Ord, Capt. K. O. C 122, tlO to 41!. Oregon— Admission of, .tM, :!.")2-.\nierlean Soci- ety for the Settlement of, '221- Hills in Con- gress, 21.'), :!24 to 327, .■iV2— Citv. 21:!, 2:!S, 211. 2411, 2')4, 277, ISO, 2S:l, :!l!l, 317- Discovery of, 20 —E.xchange Company, .3:4:1— First Settlement of, 14,"), 22!l, 23«)-Iustltute, 2")1 -Origin of Name, 72 to 1711 to I.Si" ' Klver, 117 : to 70- IJuestlon, 1:1:!, 144, 101 to lOS, 1711 to I.So, 2;il, 272,, 2!HI to 2!I7- ititles, :!12- r:l. Sec Columbia Spectator. :!0 1- Hteamer, 42:!-" Style " of Journalism. :i:>0, 422, 42S- -Territory Organized, :!i!i to :UI. Oreuonian, Tli(,:W>, .t47,:!(5.3, 3ill, 11.3, 4l!l, 121 to 121, i:«). orford— Cape, lUl Port, :i;l!l, ;fiMl, 4:l», 440, 443, (111. Otondo, .Xdmiral Don Isdrode, ,jl. ounalaska Island, SH, 102. Overland Journeys. 131, i:W to 14.3, l.'>7 lo 100, 101, I!r2 to lill, 2IHI. 201 to 1.04, 2IIS, 210 to 214, 217, 22"i, :140 lo-.."yi. 200 to277, 2SS to Jill, 2il!l, :KII lo -Ml, .322 to •321, 340, 311. Owens, Ca|)t. F-llas .\.,:l;")l to ;!(10 -('apt. James W., 31:!— John, 2si, 21ls— I lioinas, 270. owhi, Yakima Chief, 474. I' Pacilio— City. :'vl2— Fur Co., iriO lo HI.")- Ocean, l!l, •2:!, 01, s.")— .Spain's Monopoly ot the, 27— Tele- graph Co., :147. Packwood, William H., .liO, :r>-). Palmer. (Jen. Joel 1.., 2S0, :!1.3, :!44, .3")8, .3H0 to 3.h:\. +11, 442, 407 Palouse -Indians, 101, :!S0 410, 420,400,470,474— Klver, l:f7, 4-2s. I'ambrun, P C., -2(0, 212, 21:i, 247. Parker— S., .ttl-Dr. Samuel, 210 to 212, 21!t, 271 — William (J., 270, 2IK Parmentler Hiver, 4:1. Parrlsh. Kev. Joslah 1... 2:12, 213, 2.")!, 2">l, 277. Pataha River, 141. •Pathfinder. •277. Patit Klver, ill. Patton. K.,:iol. Payne, J. K.,311. I'eace Klver, 1:!1. /liW/ar, .\mcrican Itrig, loi. I'eebles, J. C, :i'iO, :!.">">. Peers, Henrv, .100. ;liM. Pend d' Oreille Kiver, l:iO, :! 0. :IS4. I'oe-peo-inox-mox, Walla Walla Chief, l-'W, 2jii, .■!S1, Kril, 411 to 410. P'-rez- Juan, Voyage ol, 7s, 70— Fntrada de, 117. Perils, Cape of, 20. Perkins, Kev. H. K. W., 217, 277, 27!l. Perry. W. T.,'277. 2S2. Peru (Conquered, 10. Petroiiaulovski, SO. Petiygrove, F. W., 277. Philip 11 and III of S|iain, |.~). lit. Philippine Islands, '27. Phillips, Kdward. .Murder ol, :10!I. PichlingueR. Sec hreebontcrii. Pickett, Charles K., 270, 2*0. I'ierce— President Franklin, :i4:!— Meiil. Thos r2!i. I'ierre Jerome, Indian Chief, :lS."i. Pike, .lournev of liieut., 1 i:l. Pilclier, Maj., .lourney of, 200, 213. Pillow, Lieut. C. H., 41(1. Pistol Kiver Indians, llii, ll."i. Pitt, Fort, 100. I'izarro, Francisco, Con<iuests ol, 10. Pl<\moiidon, ,s., :io4, Platte Kiver, 00. Point- .\dams, l'22— of Kocks, battle of, 2211- Reyes 47— Santa Cruz, r2:i. Poland, (apt. .lohn, 4:l.s, 4:10. Polk. County— '2'2S— President .lames IC, '2S!1, •2,l|, 2!il to 2!M), :!10, :!22, :!2I, ,'1'27, :!2s. Pomeroy, Waller. 2111. Pompeys I'l liar, 142. Population of Oregon in is:!."), •2^2()-lS4o, 212, 2'!0— lsr2, 24!l— !s4:l, '27.-)— lSt4, 2S.3-1HI."), 2SS— isiil, 'llX. Port. .SVc Boiletja y Qutulra, Bucarcli, Imh Av- gcles, Moiilj/omeri/, Nunez Gaona, Orcliaril, Orforri. Pusaexxion, Townxenil, Portet\ W. W.,311. Portlus, William, :!ill. Portland- City, xa, :i;i"),3.l7, :!l."i, :!I7 to :ll!i, :!i«, i:i\, 4,")4— Inlet, IIB. Part lock, Capt., Voyage of, !i.">. rort.«mou</i, I'.. s. Man-of-war, .'!22. Portuguese Colon ii's, 10. Possession— Port, •2")— Sound, 1'2:!. Postofflces, First, :110. Polosl .Mines, 10. Powell— J. H.. Killed by Indians, :17«—Capl. I..J„ 4.">:!, 4.")4, 4.")0 to 4t):i Prattler, Theodore and William, 'iX\. I'ratt, Judge o. C., .■l'2s. Prevost, J. H., I'nili'il States CominisHloner, 10" to 107. I'rigg, Frederick, 270, 28"). ' Prim, Judge I'. P., :i."ili, I'll. mmma (iKNKi:AI, INDKX. \ 1 1 1 Princena Rt'<d<ind Priitwin Hoijiil, Spanish aiul KiigUsh vessel, 1(12 to lis. Princess, SpftnlBh vessel . !M. Prince of Wales— Cape, S.s—Kiigllsh vessel, Ido— Island, H2. I'rinee William's Soiinii, H8, !M>, Iii2. I'rintinK I'ress, First In Oregon, 21'). Prllchott, Klnl/.lntf, .'KS. rroelamatlon— (iov. Curry, IH.').), :W!1— (iov. Lane, 1H4!1, :i28— Oov. Mason, IS.>), ;i8it— Col. Steptoe, Kill— Gov. Stevens, .{11. Protestant Missions, 207 to 221, 2.V, ■.m to :il2. I'rovlslonal Government, 211 to 2')7, 27!) to ^iill, .11 S to ;i2H. PuKh.Capt. W. r.,:!l:!, •'ill. I'uget Sound, 111, 123— AKricultural Co.. 2:U— In- dian War, 4a% 42(i, lliS-Settlement, 28.'). y Quadra (Cuadra) Island, 12"). .Sec hotlegu. tJueeu Charlotte -Kngllsh vessel,!).')— Islands, 7H, IK), 117— .Sound, 121. Quimper, Lieut. Manuel, Voyase i.l'. 111. Uulvlra, Mythical City of, •£>, r*^. K Haboln, Louis, :wn. Kaceoim, Kngllsh War vessel, Hl^i. Ualnes, Ma|. <i. .1., :i i2, :!S(i to .iH.!, 1 1") to 112, li'i, 121). Itainier, Mount, 121. Uamsely, Lieut. M , 2.'<i, M\. Hansom of Prisoners from Cayuses, .IPJ. Kector, William II., .MM, :«1. Redtleld, attacked by Indians, :I77. Ked River of the Norlli. i>7, 72, 7:t, Ill-Colony, 2:14. 2i).'t— ImmlKrants, 217. Keed-Ar. H., .Wi, ;!.")l— .lacob, 2(>s, 27(l-.l<)lin, Mas- .sacreof, 1(12. 1(U.— T. .\.,.'i7.'). Kees, Wlllard II., 2H;t, 2S4. :«).!. Regulars, XU, XiH, H21 to :t.">K. .'««, :i7(), :!.S(i to :;sK, Kn to4(W, 112, 121 to 12:1, HO to III, 110 lo |.->.!, IV>, Id.! to 17."). Hellefof Immigrants of W)2, .'111. Hemick, W. C, 277, 282. Keniond, Narclsse, 410, 412, 42 I. Representative to Congress, .'t.")l . Republic, Steamer. IJ;!. Reservation, Indian— Ne/ Peree, .">y.'— Rogue River, .tlN— Sllet/,, |:il— Table lloi'k, :l() l- I'matllla, :!H0— Warm Springs, :K2— Wallii Walla, .'WO-Yaklma, .180. Resolution, Capt. Cook's vessel, .SI to!Kl. Revilla-Olgedo, Viceroy of .Mexico, 107, II.'), 127. Reyes, Itio de los. See Kmq's Riyir. Reynolds, (apt., I", s. \.. I.ts. 440, 11.!. Ulee— Capt. 10. A.. :1.'>1, |i«. i:tl— L. A., 2si, :!:i|- Settlement, KHi. Richards, R<'V. G. P., 2 12. lilchard.son, .lohn, 27ii, 2Sii. Rlggs, .lames H. and Kufus .V., 2Ss. RIneiirson, Capt. .lacob S., :l|:!, .■!7(), :17!I, :iOli. Rio. Sei' Aguiliir, JU'ih^i, Ilaro, Hepos, HIver. iSVc Aiiuilar, Ahliinum, Alpoua, Anifii- cnii, Ansinlhiiine, limivt VisUi, liuriil, Vltirki's Fork, Polovoilo, Volumliia, (\>}iiiirmi)ii\ Co- iiuitlf. Deer Lml/ie, Dis Chutes, Dniiner, TJes- tmrtion, Frasrr, Grien, Huro, Jlcll Giitf, J ' umlmldt , Illinois, ,Iumii-off-Jiii', Muckemif, M'lrn's, McClouil or Mcf.eoU, Mis.iissip)}!, .l/i,«- inuri, Mii'<s<'tsliell, Kini/s, of Ihr West, 0<i<len's, Oregon, I^louse, I'urmfntier. I'enre, Pcnd <l' Oreille, Platte, tied. Rogue, Sun Rof/iie, Saii- liiim,S<isknteli(tn'an,Smike, Spokone, The(i<i)io, Touvhet, rrmjiQUd, Wallii W'llla, White, Wil- liiinetle. Wind, Yakiiuii, Villinvstone. Rivers Inlet, 121. Robbins-Natlianlel, :]:<», .■ni-( >. I'., :!7I. Robertson, Capt., t:l4. Robie, .\. 11., Indian .\gent, I")!!. 102. Robin's Nest, 2:«. Robinson, ,1., .104. Rocky Mountains, (i(),(l!l, 70, 71, l:ll-l''ur Co., Mil to2!K). Rogers— A. !•',, ;ii;t— tlornellus, 211— Lewis, :iO|. Rogue River, .•)0, lim,. 1:17, IIW, i:li(, 118 to 410— In- dians, WMi, :»7, :«0, ;»l to .itiO, .'Ui7 to :177, .•ltt4 to -Wushing- lO.i. 4:«l<i no— .Massacre in IS.)."), 22(i-l.S.")'), Uri lo.i7()-\'alley, 3)7. Ronqulllo, Straits of, 12. Rosario— Canal del. See Quifof Geomia— Straits, Hi. Roseburg, 347. Rose and Harding killed, Ml. Ross, (4en. .lohn K., 312, 314, :).3!l, 3.")ll to 3,10, 37S, 301). Rush, Richard, .American Commissioner, 181. Russell-Capt.n.,4(il-()sborn,277,281,28."),287,;«)l. Russian— America. See ^/nvta— .Vmerlcan Trad- ing Co , 03— i;ialm to .Maska, lS;i-K.\i)lora- tloiis, .')!) to ()2, 03. Ryan, William, .304. Ryswick, T"?aty of, (i.'). Sacred Heart Mission, .)().). Satlarans, Dr. 11., 31.!. Saliaplln River. See Snake. Salem, 20.1, 2.")0, 2.')l. 31.") to 3")!. Salmon Fishing, 201. Saltees, Coeur d' Alene Chief, 471. Salt Lake, Great, 07, 101. Sam, Rogue River Chief, .•V')7 to :)()'•, 1)1. San Hernardlno Island, 2"). Sun CV(W».«, Spanish vessel. (>."), 70, 102 to 101,111. Sand Hollows, Rattle of, 31 1. San Diego, 47, ")1. Sand Island, 340. Sandwich Islands. See Jfairuiitin. San Francisco Ray and City, .10, 17, 18, 01, S3, 201, .3311, .3;)3. San .Tiiclnto, Mount, s'>. San .Tuaii .\rchlpelago. 111. San Lorenzo. See Noolkti. San Luciis, Cape, 21. San liiientln, 17. Si,in Roi|Ue, Cape, .^l .S'rc J/iimvck. Han Sebastian, Cap''. 18. Santa Cruz— Lowe^r California, III. 21 Ion. See Xeir Punginess. Santa Rosalia, Mount.' iVec Olympus. S mill Salurnlnii, .Spanish vessel. 111. Snntiiigo, Spanish ves.sel, 78, 70. Saskatchewan River, 07, 70, 71, 131. Satas Creek, 42!l. Satton, ('., 2S0. Sauvles Island, 130, 2ir,. Savage, M. L.,3C1. Schlellclin, Clinton. 371. Sciiumagim Islands, ss. Scott— .lohn, 284. 20.S— ( apt. L<'Vl, 281, 2ilS, :)03, 3.")0, ;).");")— River, -m. Scottsburg. 3.37, 377. Scurvy, Ravages of the, 21, 20. 17, 48, 10, .").S, 78, 01, 07. Sea. See Ilehring, Onies, IV'irlU, South, Vermilion. Sea Otter. lOngllsh vessel, 0(1. Seal lie, 120,427. Secretary of Oregon, 282, 2S."), — Washington, .343. Selkirk Settlement, 170. Semmes, Lletil , I'. S. N., 400. Semple, Speech of Gen., 2(>2. Senators, I iilted stales, 3.')1. Sentinel, ,Iacksonvllle, 372, 13.'). Serra, Father .lunlpero, 01. .Sett liTS and the Hudson's Day ( ■i>.,227 to 230, 234 237 to 2.!!l. 211,217. shadden, Thos. ,1.. 210 to 2'jl. Shannon— Davis, 3")!), .).").")- W., .■!.3.!. Shark, \'. S. Si'liooncr, wrecked, .300. .Shasta— Hutle City. .SVc I'rcte- Mount Shalt uck,.ludgc !•:. D. , .•!.")0, .I.-)."). Shaw— A. '.'. R., 2s|-Col. II. F.,284, 421, 4 — Dr., 410- .losluia, 281— Thomas C, —Washington, 2S|— Cai)t ShefHeld, Capt., 111. shelton, Isaac, Killed by Indians shepard, ( 'y rus, 208. 210, 217. Sheridan, Lieut., Philip H., 107, l.")l to 4"v). sherlll', Capt., Kngllsh Conimlsslonor, 1(17 Shields, ,Iames, .Wl, iVh't. Shilling Mountains. See Rocky, ship. See I'essi I. Shlvdy, .1. M., First lostmusler, .!l!l, 321. Shoalwater— Hay. 120— Cape, 110, i2S, 3.!.'), 311,31.'), 3")! , 200. .")7 to 4(17 281, 313 William, 281, 31 1. X I V msTOKY OK OUKGON. il Sv(< Pitcijic ■>'~. ••ilO, .■!1-.', ■. See Ex- Short, R. v., .'ai, :W. ShortesB, Robert, 2.12, 2J't, 2iV!, '^A, 'iTJlS, 277. ShoHhone Indians, 140. Show-ah-wiiy, Yakima (^hlef, .'iW. Shrum, NIcliolas, .TjO, 3Vj. HIgnature.s of Delegiiles to ronstltutional Con- vention, Xtl. 81mcoe Vallpy, .W-'. Simmons— tJporgf, 27li. 2S(i— Michael T., 2S4, 2-(."), ■m. Simpson, Sir (Jeorge, 2.'7, 247, 2li:!. Sinclair, .lames, H. H. Co. Agent, cm, 4IH, V*y Siskiyou Mountain, l!Hi. Sisters of Notre Dame. 2H1. .Skinner, Alonzo A., Indian Agent, 2K.'>, ^f-'.s, :i.)S, ;U4. Slnngliler, I.leut. \V. A . .1X7, 42.-.. slavery— In America, 111— In Oregon, :i'2li, M.'l, .'Jl K Slocum, I, lout. Wni. A., 2.i(l. .smallpox among the lilackfeet, oiix. Smith-Rev. A. 1!.. 214 to 21li, 2')7, 2.V, 2;7-Ca|>t. A. ,1.. :t.->S, :il(i), :«W, :!71, .■!)!!, 4(12. 434, a\ III. 44:i to 4 Hi, 47()— Ucluzon, :!">» to ;!-V)-(i. ]{.. .W.!— Isaac W., 27(i. 2S(>— .ledcdiah s., Trapping Kxpeditlon of. 1!I2 to 210— Noyes, '.W, ^S.")- Robert. 270, 2iH— Shlney, 2.I2. 240, 277. 2)S0- Slmeon. 2.S0— Thomas, \V):i-\ Pioneer of lHt2, 2:)2. 2j:i. Smith's Inlet. 121. Snake, River, 13li— Indians, 1 10, .101 to .iOI, l.'^S— Massacre, .101— Mission, 2.'L'. Silkier, Dr. K., :!i:i. Snook, .I..S., 2H4,:tiil. .IM. Sonofd, .Spanish vessel, 70 lo Si. Hound, tivc Utrchni, Xoalku, /'on.vevv/oji, Prince William, I'liqit, Queen Cluirlalte, ,S7. George's. .South Pass, 101, South Sea, l!i, 2-1, :il, :!7. .V), 01, .S4, 01. f^'p'oi— f!oinpany. 04. Southern Kmlgrant Koute. 2!IS, :;02 Spalding, Rev. Henry H., 212, 20->, Spanish— Armada, .12— CoiKiuests, I' ploratinna. Spokane— Fort, 101, lOi— Indiims, 101, 121, 4.")0, 4.')8 474— .Mission, 214. Sportsman, William, 2!is. Spotted Eagle, Nez Perce Chlel', 4.'>.s. St. Charles City, :!XV St. Clare, VV., .'loi. .St. Elias, Mfiunt, ■")S, .S7, 01. .St. Kraneis /avler. Chapel of, :!00. St. George's Sound. Nee Xnnthi. St. Helens -.Mount, I20-To\vn of, •'!!:!. St. Ignatius Mission, .'KK). St. .lohn's Church, Oregon City. .100. St. r.ouls. Founded, f»i— Fort, ISO. St. Mary's Mission, 'iOO. St. J'riul and St. /V<?r, Russian vessels, .J7 to ■")0. St. Pauls Ml.ssion. 2:i4, HOO. staats, Stephen, '2->o. SlarUweuther, \Vm. .\., :!."iO, "..yi . Stat*— Capital. Nee Ciiiiilal— House, 2."il, 347— Kfforts to Create. .'142 to .•i.")2. Stutesman. :i.V>, 3;i«, 'Mi, 310, 317, 3H.'),.i01, 431, Steamer, P'Irst built In Oregon, .330. Steele, Judge Elijah, :««, Stellacoom, Fort, 387, 4'2.'), 420. Hteptoe, Col. E. ,1., 4.")0, 4.")2, IM. 103 to lo; 473. Stevens, Gov. Isaac!., ,343, 3H0 to .is;l, 1(10 to 41'2, 423 to 427, 4r>() to 4.'>S, 41m to 187. Stewart— Lieut. A. »., 4.-).3— Capt. V. S. A.,3:W-P. G., '270, '281, 287— Camp, 3,lt, .Th. Nee Drum- mond. Stlck-us. Cayuse Chief, 274, 286, 3o7. Stock Whitley, Des Chutes Chief, l2o, 400, Stony Mountains. See Rnekii, Straight, Hiram A., '270, 284, im, 3iK). Straits. See Aninn, Behrinf/'s, Cnrlerenl, Ilarii, John stone'. s, Juan tie h'uen, Lrihnitlnr, Maijel- lan, lionqnillo, timario. stratton, U. K., 3'il. Strong, ('apt. and .ludge Wllliani, :i.s,"), W). Stuart, David and Robert, I.")l, l.)7. 101, 104. Sublette, Milton and Wllliani, 103, '201. Supremo Court. See .hirigex. .SnriV, Spanl.sh vessel. 117, 123. ■28:!. 470 *o Suttei-Capt. .lohn A., 21 1, .181- Fort, .320, ;WI, 401), Swallow Hall. See War Kagle. Swartwout, ('apt. r. S. N.,4'27, 408. Switzer, Lieut., C. S. A..408. Syracuse, Town of, 3:1.3. Table Rock, :t;)8, :i,M to 300, 374. Taeoutchee Tasse River. See Fraser Ta-ma-has, murderer of Dr. Whitman, 318. Tam-su-ky, Cayuse Chief, 300 to 318. Taylor, B., 314-Fort, 473-.rames, 328, ;i.tl— Capt. ( ). H. P., 471, 474— President Zachary, .Til. Tchlrlkof, Alexel, .')7. Tejada (Texada) Island, 114, 1'23. Telohn Pass, '201. Telegraph Lines Kullt. 347. Tenas 'I vee. Rogue River Chief, :iO.'i. Territorial Period, :«2 to :Vil. Terrv. Chester N., .'Wl, %-tlV,. The Dalles, lO.-) to 41:1, 421, 4'27. 430, 4:t7— Indians. 237, -iiO, .382— Mission, 217. 'I'-ii, .307), .307. Thegayo River, 07. See Cnlumlilii. Tliompson— David, a Fur Trader, l.Ki— Capt. Cliaries, :M0— Capt. Piiillp F,, 314 to 317. Thorn, Capt. .lonathan, I.'ii, i.'):t. Tiiornlon, .1. (^ulnn, 207, 320 to;!28. Thorp, Major, 282. Thurston— County, .'il7— Samuel R., 'i:!!, 2:m, .302, 304, :i'i7, :!31. :i37. Tlbbetts, Calvin, 2:!fl, 277. Tillamook, Cape, 100, 101— Counly, :U4— Indians, :i02. Times, Newspaper, :!:i7. Timothy, Ne/, Perce chief, 471 to 17:1. Tipsu Tyee, Rogue River Chief. :i«l, .3(i0. Tolmie, W. F., :!00. Tom Hill, '238,3(10. Tonnuin, Voyage and Destruction of, l.'iO to l.'>0. Touchet-Rattle of, 310, 4lli— River, 111, 310,370, 413, 410. •i'ownseiid, Port. 12:!, 34:!. Trappers. See Fnr Onmpanies. Traveller, V . S. Steamer, 400. Traveling Nursery of 1817,301. Treasurer of Oregon, 2")7, 2Sl, 282, '28i'>, .328. :r>l. Treatles-Ashburton, '204, '270— with England, l:i2. 104, Ili8, I.V"), 201, 270, 2-2!), 203,200— otGlienI, 101— of .Joint occupation of Oregon, 198, lH.i, •2112, 203— of .Madrid, 1'28— of Nootka, 111- of Ryswick, 111-with Spain In 1818, 'Jt'. See Indiana. Trevllt, Vlo.,:l.8(i. Trinidad Hay, 48, 70. Tshimikain Mission, 214, :I06. Tualatin— District, 281— Plains, 210. :102. I'ufts. .Attacked by Indians, :!74. Tukannon River, 1:17, :W0. Tuie Lake, :«0, Turn water, .'143. Turner John, 2'20,2.'1(), 277. Turpin, William, 301. •I'Vault, W. G., •28.->, 288, :)0!l, :l:!o. Tygh Valley, 4011. Tyler, President .lohn, '272, 20.3. |i Ulloa, Francisco de. Voyage of, 21. rniatilla— Agency. :M1— Indians. :1S1, 410, 4-20, IfiO, 4i«)— .Mission. 108. 110- Reservation, '181, 410, 411-River, i:!0, ir>0, .'CT, 411. rm-howlisli, Cayuse (.'hief, 307, 30O, .'170. rmp(|ua--Fort,'20l-Indlans, 104 to 100, 401 — Mas- sacre, nil to 100— River, 40 to .">!, 101, ;l;47— Val- ley, .3:^7. t'nlversity of Oregon, :14.'). ITnited States- Attorney, :i;l-"i, :141, :il.'>— Marshal, 327, 3.-)5,344. Utilla. See Umatilla. V Vuidez, Cayetano, Voyage of, 118, 12:1. Vanconver-(;'atliolicChiirch,:iOO— District, '288— Fort, 1'20, 177., 17(i, -200, 212, 217, '228, 230, 421, 122, lir.-lBland,78, 108, 121, I21, I.*3-To\vn, 4(H- Voyage of, 11'2. 118 to 128, Vannoy's Ferry, 308, 4.3.5. Van .Scliouten, Voyage of, .'53. «KNKI!AL INDK.X. XV Vaslion Island, 12:!. Velaspo I/ake, I.!. Verondryps. Kxplorationsof, ll!i to 71. Vi'i-Milhon Hen, "i-l. Vessel, First Hiilll-«n raclHc (,'oast, 21, !W, 100. IJI. 157— on Columbia Klver. iri7. Viscalno, Sebastian, Voyage of, 1"). Volunteers. 2X1), .■J12. :!M, .'W, atl, .•i7(l, ■i7N, :!,S8 to 477. Voy«i?e. Srv Afiuilur, Arteaga, Aynln, Jtaffl'^- Harclati, Behriiu/. Bi'iiynintky, Jtlilille, Hn- (lesin y Quadm, IIUMlitiimnte, Catimano, <V(- brillo, Onetiilixh, Oilnelt, Ourtrrftil , C'urmii, Jhltis, DiTiiii, Drake, Elimi, Ferirlo Fniitf, Film, Giiliaiiii, flamit, Oriiy, J faro, I/eiiln Jfiiilsim, Kindrirk, J,'i I'croiiw, Lrmairi', Miil- itnniido, Mnrlinez, Maurille, Mmies, I'frfz, /'tirllork, Qiiimjtrj-, Tchirik itf, Vllnii, Vnlih-z, \'<i)icoiii<'i\ \'(in Sriiiiiiti'ii, i'i.sidiiii). .SVi- AV- imlitioii iinil .lininirfi. Voya^eurs, 171. W Waifuer, .1. U., Xli to :t7li. Wiiaons to I Hi.'%im, 2i:i. 2.T). 21(1. 2IS, 272, 274. Walllalpu .Mission, 2l:i, 2')«, ms to -ilH, .'CT, 110. .SVy- Wliilmnn. Walr, J. \V., Jill.). Walt-JudKe A. K., .i.".!— Lieut., 4">!» to 4111. Walauiet Cattle Co., 211. Sec Wlllmnvtle Waldo. Daniel. l>avid and William, rii, •Jn2. M'alker-Courlney M., -liiS, 277. 2-t2 2,Sii-Uev. KI- kanali, 211. 2lfc'>, 277— (.'apt .Jesse, :llil— .loseph. Trapping K.xpedlllon ol, 202 -a Vlcllm ol Indians, 3S7. Walker's I'ass, 200 to 2112. Wallaeo Prairie. 2-il. "Wallen, (apt., 414. Walla Wallu-llattle or. 111 to 122-Canip, 120.121, 427, 44S. 4.''><l, 4ti2 to 107— Counell at. .ihO to Xfi, 4K:i to 407— Fori, 202, 21 0, 212, 2110 to 20S. 2!i,s, :i07, .•111,4011, 428. 470— Indlaii-s, l.SO, lliO, :«1, 400 to 4;i2, 4,-)S, 400,40(1. l74-.Mllltary I'ost, 470— Klver, 1.1H,2<KI, .'WO, 417. Waller, Hev. A. V;. 220, 2:12. 2")«, 277. Waning, Gabriel and .1. II., -m. Wallula. Hev Wallii WiiIIk Foil. Wapatoo I.sland See Saiiiii.i. War Bet»'een Hudson'.s Hay Co. and Northwest Co , 170. See Iniliiin Wars. War Kagle, Cayuse ('l)lel', .tl") Warrewer, Thomas, 2M4. Waseo— County, H44— J^teanier, -ISS, 418 to 452. Wa80O()uni Indians. See The ludlex. Washington— County, .'i.i:l— Kort, 11(1— Territory, :M2to:W4. Waterman, .lohn OrvLs, 3).">. Waters— David, i!14— Col. .lames, 278, 'il-i to. 117 Watklns, W. H , :«!, ifiS. Watt, .Joseph, 284. Watts, John W., .150, :V)5. Wayralre. Frederick and .John, 2S8, .V>0, :l.V(, Webster, Daniel, 204, 271, 272, 20.1, 21K1. Well Springs, Hattle of, 311. West, Ulver of the, tj7. See Columbia. Western Star, ;»"). Weston, David, :il I. Wheat made Legal Tender, 288. Wheeler, I, lent. .James, 471. Whldby Island, 121, :10<I. WhIteomb-.J. I,., 240— Lot, .iT), .'{.111. White— Dr. Klljali, 210, 217, 2.52, 2.53, 2.5S. 277, 2S7— .James, . mi-.J oh n S., :i.")0, .Hl-S. S.,:!O.S-Klver, 425, 420. Whlteaker, .John, .Til. While Stallion Itlver. See Toiuhel , Whitman— I>r. .Marcus, 210 to 221, 2:il,2.rr,2;t8,217, 2til) to 275, 277, .121— andlmmigration of 181.1, 247,200 to 2r5, .'too— .Vlassncre, UtS, .•105 to .'118. :!21 to. '12:t-- Mission. .SVc lfrti(V'»/y)«-l'urehases Tlie iMlles Mission, *l.5 -|>. H., :t07. Whitney, .Jones K., .'t7!i. Whltted, Thomas, :V>0, :152'». Whiltnn, .\nierloan vessel, .'121. Wilbur, Captain, 4 10. Wilcox. I)r. Italph, 2S0. .lO.'!, :i01. Wiley..!. \V.,.'ii:i. Wilkes, C<iinmodore Charles, 211. Wllklns, Caleb, 210. Wilkinson, Capt, W. A., :«(8, 411. Willamette— Comity, .115— Falls, '227. '2:1:). 2:W, 240, 251, 28(1, 2<:i-l{l ver. l.'lr- Valley, 22il, •2:iO. Williams— I'loneer of 18:17, 210, 2411— Fort, 2i).'i— I.ieut., 4.5(1 to 4'i:!— Judge Oeorge n.,Mi, X*), .'!.V>— J. V.., '281. %*\- Capt. M. M., 41.5, 4.10— Col. Kohert 1... :15l to :ttiO, 3!)(i, .';n8. 4:B to 44(1. Wilkln.son— Caiit.,:!!i8, 4(0— Oeorge, 2:12. Wlllson, William II.. 257. '277, '280, .'W. Wilson- A. V.., -2.57, '277, '282. .'til— A. F., .'Wl. :i85- Cnpt. .\. v.. 411, 417 to 420, 4:10- John, 301. Wind Hlver, 70. Win Im snoot, Cuyuse Chief, 400. Winnipeg, City. Fort, Lake and Klver, (ill, 170, 171. Winslilp's Settlement on the Columbia, 14.5. Wolf Meeting, 251. Wood. I'loneer of 18:17, 2:10. ^Voods. Lake of the, (19. 70. Woodworth, John. 2'20. Wool. (Jen. John E., :!(«. :!IW, .300. .372, :i82, :189, 390, 411, 412, 421 to 421. 425, 4:1.5, 440, 1(17. W right— (apt. Kenlamln. 232, .'130, 4.38, 4:}!>— Col. George, 426, 447 to 4:50, 4(1:1 to 409, 473 to 475. Wyeth, Nathaniel .1., Knterprlses of, 197, '202 to 2O0. 213. 220. Vaklma- Indhms. :wi, :IS1 to :i!ll, 4II7. 108, 410, 429, 118 to 151, 45S, 4(10. 470, 474— .Mission, .508- Klver, 407, l'28. Yamhill— District, 280— Settlement, '2111. Vantis, Judge, .'18.5. Vellept. Walla Walla Chief, l;l!i. Yellow Bird. See Pen-fien-mox-nior. Yellowstone Klver, 70, I'lO, 14'2. Yelni Prairie, 4'2(!. ■yerba Buena, 0.5, 201. See San Francisrn. You-ma-lolam. See T'liintuia. Voung-Kwlng, '201, •2'20, '2:10, 212, 214-Licut., U. S. N., 4«S. Yreko,;i:J7, ;«9. CHAPTER I. AMERICA IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTUKY. Spain's Foothold in the New World— The Aye of Romance and Adve)b- ture — The Method and Successive Stages of € on <j nest— Discovery of the South Sea, or Pacific Ocean, by Balboa and Magellan — Conquest of Mexico and Peru — First Attempt to Colonhe the Peninsula of California — E forts of Portugal, England and France. DURING the iifty years immediately following the discovery of America, Spain gained a fii'm and lasting foothold in the New World. Ferdinand and Isabella, those Christian rulers who sat upon the united throne of Castile and Aragoii, and freed their kingdom from the invading Moors, and redeemed it from the faith of Islam, and under whose patronage Colinulius sailed upon that voyage which revealed to an astonished world a new continent and a vast unknown ocean, were succeeded in power by the mighty Charles V. Under the reign of this enlightened monarch, the most powerful, wise and enterprising ruler that ever sat u[)on the throne of Spain, that nation approached the zenith of its power, wealth and importance in the political affairs of Eiu'ope, This slu; reached and passed during the reign of his son and successor, the haughty Philip, whose power and magnificence was supported chiefly from the endless stream of treasure which flowed into the ki»'gdom from conquered provinces in the New World, or from th(^ commerce of the East. There existed no rival to share with her the riches of the long-sought Indies, save ambitious little Portugal, who had early gained a footing there and established a considerable commerce by the long and tedious route around the southern extremity of Afiica. 18 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. While other iiiitions confined themselves to oecasional voyages of explor.'ition Jind spasmodic efforts jit [)lanting feeble colonies, S[).'iin was pursuing a vigorous policy of coni[uest and colonization. That was the halcyon age of I'omance and adventure, anil Spain led the van. The whole nation seemed imbued with a spirit of con- ([uest. Imagination and romance peopled this vast unknown land witii nati(ms of strange civilization and amazing wealth; made it the re|)ository of gold, pearls and precious gems in such fabulous tjuantity that the greatest riches of the known world seemed but the veriest dross in compariscm; gave into its keeping the mystical fountain of youth; endowed it with all the beauties and wonders of earth, aii- and water the mind could conceive, and even located within its confines the Terrestrial Paradise from whose ^ates the angel of the Almighty had driven the great progenitors of mankind with a flaming sword of tire. Beyond this was the great South Sea, with its thousands of islands — a region romance had tilled with nations of Amazons and enriched with gold and pearls; while still further was the Indies with its known treasures of silk and porcelain; the magnificent Cathay, that land of great cities and hoarded wealth, of which Marco Polo had written; and the marvel- lous Island of Cipang(t, whose treasures were ready to fall into the lap of him who was bold enough to seek them. Stimulated by avarice, love of adventure and a religious zeal which often ap[)roached fanaticism, many of the nobles of Spain eml)arked upon expi^ditions of ex[)loration and concpiest, accom- panied by bands of e(|ually avaricious, adventuresome and fanatic soldiers, whose reward for their services consisted chiefly of the ])lunder obtained in their bloody campaigns. Such expeditions wei'e fostered and encouraged ])y the Spanish monarch, who saw in them a means of extending his power and dominions, and filling his treasury with the su[)posed wealth of the New World. Whoever discovered and conc^uered a new country in the name of the king was connnissioned governor, or viceroy, of the subdued region, and granted all riches he might thus acipiire, save only that which was to be the portion of the crown. In this way America was invaded from Florida to Chili. Briefly summarized, the successive steps by which Spain grasped AMERICA IN THE SIXTEKNTII CKNTI'UY. 19 the richest portions of the New World were as follows: In 1495, only thre<3 years after the nieniora1>le voyage of (\)lmiil>us, the Island of Hayti was con([iiered and named " Nuevo Ilispanola," a name afterwanls transferred to Mexico. Mere work was hetjun in the mines, the natives bein^ enslaved to perfoi-in the laltor. These being found physically unable to endure the hardships imposed upon them, negroes were im[)orted from (ruinea for that purpose, thus laying the foundation of Afriean slavery, \vhich the civilization of the nineteenth ccmtury has not yet been abh' fully to abolish. In loll the Island of Cuba was invad<(l by HOO men, and conquered in the name of the king of S2>ain. In l.")].'} \'aseo Nunez de Balboa crossed the Isthnuis of Darlen and disci )\('red the great South Sea, of Avhich the natives had scj contidently spoken that it had already found a place on the maps of European geogra- phers. Seven years lat(;r the great Magellan entercHl it through the straits that bear his name, and christened it " Pacitic." In 1519 Cortes landed in Mexico, and with an army of 950 soldiers and a ffreat cloud of Indian auxiliai'ies invaded the ancient kintcdom of the Montezumas. In two years he completely subjugated the country, his progress l^eing marked by the blood of the Aztecs poured out like water in the defense. Ten years later the cruel Pizarro, whose only object was coniiuest and plunder, entered Peru with a thousand men, subdued the country and plundered the king- dom of the Incas of its treasures of gold and silver. In 1585 Men- doza entered Buenos Ayres at the head of 2,000 men and subjugated the country as far as Potosi, whose famous mines of sib/er were discovered nine years later. In 1537, Cortes, seeking funher con- (piests to the westward of Mexico, landed at Santa Cruz, near the lower extremity of the peninsula of California, but finding neither wealth nor civilized nations, and l)eing una})le to subsist his force in such a barren land, soon abandoned his effort at colonization and returned to Mexico. In 1541, Chili was conquered l)y the restless adventurers of Spain. By the middle of the sixteenth century Spain had con(piered and colonized every portion of America inhabited l)y wealthy and semi-civilized nations, and was enjoying a revenue of almost fabu- lous amount fr(>m her provinces in the New World. Portugal alone, of all her rivals, had accomplished anything of a similar nature. 20 iriHTOKY OF WILLVMETTK VALLKY, having pliinte*! a colony in Brazil. England and France had suc- ceeded sinijdy in laying a foundation for a claim of dominion in North America, ))Ut, unlike their enterprising rival, received as yet no revenue from the New World. Sucli was the condition of affairs when the first efforts were made to explore the coast of Oregon. \ CHAP^J^ER II. THK FABULOUS STRAITS OF AN FAN. Cortereal Discovers the Straits of Lahra<l or- 1 nuM,ines he has passed through Norus Murulus-Vasoo de Garna reaches India by dUUr^n the Cape of (rood Ilope^^Nam.ing of the Straits of Anian by Cor- tereal Mage an's Discover,, of a Southwest Passage Confirms the BeUef tn a Northwest one- ^Keplorations of Cortes in the Pacific- Voyage of K rancisco de mioa-Mendo,a Dispatches Marcon and Coronado .. Search of CiI>ola and Qairira- Voyage of Juan liodyne. CabrMo-^Ihs Death-Ferrelo Continues the Voyaae to LMe J^ or W Spain Abandons the Search for the Straits of Anmn and Turns her Attention to the Indies -Spanish Con,merce Supreme m the Pacific-IIer Claim of Exclusive Domain-The Buccamers, or Freebooters of the Spanish Main, Inva^le the Pacific- liraUcal Voy,ye of Sir Francis Drake-IIe Searches for the Straits . of Anmn— Dispute among Ilistorians as to the Extent of his Vov age-Drake Lands his Pilot in Oregon- Drake^s Ba>, not the Bay of San Francisco Drake Takes Possession of Neu, Albion- Romancis ofChaplatn J^letcher-D rakers Success Excites the Euudation of oher Adventurers-Frmcdulent Claims of Discovery of a Northwest 1 assage-Maldonado^s Pretended Voyage through the Straits of Aman-Hts Memorial a Sham. THE immediate cause which led t(. the discovery and consequent occupation of Oregon was tlie long and eager search for the mythical Northwest Passage, which continued for nearly three cen- tunes, and was participated in by seven of the leading nations of the wor d England, France, Holland, Spain, Pov^ngal, Russia and the United States; and since it makes so consj .uous an object in the foreground of Oregon's history, it is worthy an extended descrip- tion. ^ '>'> 1IIST(H;Y ok WIM-AMKTTK vam.ky. One of the most noted of the many exph)rers attracted to the New Woi'hl l)y the great discovery of Colunihus, was (iraspar Cor- tereal, a Portuguese. In the year 1 500 this great navigator explored the Atlantic coast of North America — then called "N(tvusMun- dus," and supposed to be a portion of the continent of Asia, extend- ing a long distance to the eastward — and sailing round the coast of La])rador entered the straits whicli lie lu the <)Oth degree north lat- itude. Through these he passed into Hudson's Bay, sup])osing he had no^v entered waters which communicated with the Indian ocean. Aljsurd as this supposition is in the light of our present knowle<lge of the earth's surface, it was by no means so when the geograpical ideas and theories prevailing at that time are considered. It must be remembered that eight years had not yet passed since the voyage of Columlins had compelled the world to accept the theory which he and a few others had for years been enthusiastically advocating — that the earth was round and could be encompassed by traveling either east or west. Though this was now generally admitted, no one had ever actually accomplished the journey, and, in consequence, the distance round the globe was a matter simply of conjecture. That it was more than half the distance it was afterwards found to be, no one at that time imagined ; and this accounts for the belief that Novus Mundus was a portion of Asia, of whose eastern coast geographers had no knowledge whatever, and for the supposition of Cortereal that he liad passed through this new land and entered a sea connecting with the Indian Ocean, when, in fact, he was not within ten thousand miles of that great body of water. Two years ])efore. one of these Portuguese navigators, Vasco de Gama, had reached the Indian Ocean by sailing eastward around the Cape of Good Hope, a voyage historians l>elieve to liave been frecpiently accomplished in ancient days by those venturesome mariners, the Phienicians; and now Cortereal believed that he had found a route into the same waters by passing around the northern extremity of the New World. To the straits through which he had passed he gave the name of " Anian," and the land to the south of them he called Labrador, and these were variously indicated on the subset] uent maps aa " Straits of Anian," " Strait- of Cortereal," "Straits of Labrador," " Land of Cortereal," f.nd " Land of Labrador." The exact sig- TIIK KABrLOtIS STHAITS OK AXIAN. 2M as sig- nificance of the won! " Aiiiun " is wneruUv admitted to be iin- known, altlioni>;li it lias l>een tlie subject of much dispute. By some it was claimed to have been derived fi'om the Ja|)anese Avord Am', meaning " l)i'other," and to have been applied to these straits because Cortereal Itelieved them to separate Asia and Novus Miinilus, which stood on o[)[)(»site sid^s in brotherly c-on junction ; but as Japan was at that time utterly unknown — uidess, indctMl, it was that wonder- ful Island of Cipamro, <>f whose fabulous riches such extravagant expectations luid Ix'en created,— Cortereal can hardly l)e assumed to have been sufticicntly familiar with the language to employ it in Ijestowing names to the exclusion of his native tongue, and especially to the ignoi'ing<»f tliat long list of saints which furnislnid such an inexhaustible su[)[)ly of names for the devout Spanish and Portuguese explorers, lying as thick upon the ma[) of America as pin holes in an old paper |)attern. A few years later the ideas of geogra))hers in regard to the size of the world began to exj»an<l, and with tlie discovery of the South Sea all belief in the proximity of the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean vanished. In IcS^O, Magellan, another Poi'tuguese mariner, but sailing under the flag of Spain, entered the South Sea through the straits which bear his name, and l)esti>we(l the n;ime "Pacific " npon it. The voyage was continued westward untd the world had been circunmavigared, and an a])proximate idea of tlie distance around it was thus gained by geogra[>liers. lielief was imiiK^diatcdy revived in the Straits of Anian. It was then supjiosed that CortereaPs passage led from tlie Atlantic into the South Sea, of whose immen- sity tlie world had become dee[)ly imjiressed, since Magcdlaii had traversed it in its l»roadest part. If the Noith American continent narrowed northward as South America had been found to do in the opposite direction, then it must l)e Imt a short illstance from the Atlantic to the Pacific in the region of Labrador; and since a pas- sage had been found through the land to the south — for in their ignoranceof th.- open sea ])elow South America, geographers believed Magellan's Straits to lie simply a narrow waterway piercing the heart of the continent where it was much narrower than elsewhere — it was reasonable to sujipose that a similar one existed to the north, especially since Cortereal had reported finding it. To discover this northwest passage was the desire of explorers for many yeai's there- 24 IIISTOliY OK WILLAMETTK VALLEY. after. England, France and Portugal, and Holland in later years, Honght it in the Atlantic, while Spain put forth her efforts to attain the same object in the Pacific. To the efforts made in the latter direction this narrative will be chiefly confined, since to them is due the discovery of Oregon and the complete exploration of the Pacific Coast. When (/ortez had sul)jugated Mexico he at once began con- structing vessels on the western coast of Central America for service in the Pacific. He possessed a roving commission from his sover- eign, the poweiful Charles V., which granted him almost despotic powers as a ruler " all new countries he might discover and sub- due in the name of the king, the concpiests to be made at his own expense and risk, and the expeditions to be fitted out from his own resources. To foHow his movements in detail is unnecessary. They resulted in the discovery and temporary colonization of Lower Cal- ifornia, the discovery of the Colorado River, and the knowledge that the Sea of Cortes, or the Vermilion Sea, was a gulf, the one now known {.s the "Gulf of California." It had been the p]an of Cortes to coast north' ard, westward and scmthward. along America and Asia, until he reached the Indies, noting the exact position of the Straits of Anian as he passed ; but the vessels he had constructed for that purpose were ordered tf) be sent in a direct path ac-ross the Pacific, and he was compelled to build others. It was witFr these that his expeditions along the Mexican Coast and in Lower CJalifornia were conducted. The first attempt t<; pass around the southern extremity of the Peninsula of Califor- nia and follow the outer coast northward was made in 1539. On the twenty-ninth of October of that year Francisco de Ulloa, who had been the energetic assistant of the great conquesitador in all his operations on the western coast of Mexico, sailed from the bay of Santa Cruz, the scene of Cortes' disastrous attempt at coloniza- tion in Lowei- California, and passed around the cape now known as " San Lucas." On the first of February he had proceeded as far north as 2.S", when he e icountered an island near the coast which he christened " Isle of Cedars." For two months he was l)affled by head winds and contended with sickness among his crew, afllicted with that dread malady the scurvy, the scourge of the early mariners, wh(» neither understood its nature nor knew how to prevent or cure TIIK FABULOUS STRAITS OK ANIAN. 25 it. The sickness uimbating and his stock of provisions beginning to run short, Ulloa abandoned the effort to progress further and returned to Mexico. No immediate attempt was made to continue the explorations thus begun by Ulloa. Th.e lact ^vas that Don Antonio de Mendoza, a Spanish nobleman of high rank, who had succeeded Cortes as Viceroy of New Spain, was deeply interested in expk/ring the inte- rior to the northward, in search of a mythical country called " Cibola," and another named " Quivira," stories of whose wonder- ful richness had been received from wandering refugees, who claimed to have seen them or been informed of their existence by th<; Indians. Two expeditions were sent out to accomplish this purpose. One under Fernando de Alarcon ascended the Coloradt) a distance of 300 miles without observing anything suggestive of civilized nations; while Francisco Vasquez de Caronado was equally unsuccessful in a land journey which took him as far north as 40°, and extended over two years of time. Even before Coronado returned from following the ignis fahms of Quivira, Mendoza dispatched an expedition by sea to search for the Straits of Anian, and incidentally to discover any of those civ- ilized nations which Indian tradition and Caucasian imaginati(m located further to the northwest. This fleet consisted of two small vessels, commanded by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, and sailed in the year 1542. Cabrillo followed the coast as far north as latitude 38°, when he encountered a violent storm which drove him many miles backward. From this he found shelter in a small harbor in the Island of San Bernardino, lying near the coast in latitude 34°, which he christened " Port Possession," being the first point on the California coast of which the Spaniards took possession. While the vessels were lying in this harl)or, Cabrillo died, on the third of January, 1548, and the command devolved upon Bartolonu' Ferrelo, the pilot, as the second in power upon the Spanish vessels was des- ignated at that time. This position was always occupied by an experienced seaman, as it frequently hapt)ened that the commander of the expedition was not a practical navigator; and this partially accounts for the fact that ])ut little accurate knowledge was gained by Spanish explorers, who took but few observations and kept exceedingly poor records, so much so, in fact, that after half a dozen 2(5 IHSTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLKY. voyages of ('X[)lorat'n»n tlun- wer»^ unalde to ti\'U'<^ the coiitoiir of the coast line upon tlu' nuij) witli even an approach to accun\cy. Upon assuming c<»nnnan(l of the expedition, Ferreh) again headed the \essels to tlie nt^rtlnvanl. Near hititude 41° he discov- ered a prominent headhind on a rocky JUi'd forbidding coast, which lie named Cabo dc For/imas, tlie " Cape of Perils," and which is pro])al)ly the one suhstvpiently cln-istened "Mendocino," in ii(»nor of the Mexican Viceroy, Men(h)za, who had dispatched tJie expedi- tion. On the first of March, 154;?, Ferreh) readied tlie farthest point to the northwanl, which is given by some authorities as lati- . tude 44°, and liy others as 4.'{°, Other historians, inchiding Ban- croft, do not accord liim even so higli a latitude as 4.?", The con- flict arises from the careless and meagre records aljove referred to. However, it makes Imt little difference, as he progressed as far as Rogue River, an<l possibly to the I'mpcpia, and can safely be cred- ited with the discovery of (Jregon, so far as sailing along its coast without making a landing, or even drawing a chart of its outline, may be considered to constitute a discovery. Lack of piV)visions and the ravages of the drea<led scurvy among his crew compelled Ferrelo to abandon the effort to proceed further and return to Mexico. The return of Ferrelo without having discovered the mythical straits or the e([ually visionary cities and wealthy nations, reports of which had attracted the cupidity of the Spanish adventurers, following close upon Alarcon's fruitless voyage up the Colorado, and Coronado's wild-goose chase in search of Quivira, and com- bined witJi the report of the survivors of DeSoto's unfortunate expedition to tlie Mississippi, satisfied the Spanish authorities in the New World that neither wealthy nations nor navigable passages of communication between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, were to be found north of Mexico, unless beyond the 40th parallel of latitude. With this conclusion they aliandoned all effort to explore the country to the northward, and turned their attention to more remunerative ventures across the Pacific to the Indies. By this time Portugal had estaldished a large and immensely profitaV)le commerce witli the Indies, by following the long route around the Cape of Good Hope. Spain viewed this with jealous eye, notwithstanding the enormous revenue she was already receiv- THE FABIJLOITS STRAITS OK ANIAN. 27 iug from her possessions in the New VVorl<l, and put forth great exertions to secure a footing for herself in tlie Indies. Several un- successfvd expeditions were dispatched across the Pacific from Mex- ico, but, finally, in 1564, the Philippine Islands were suhdued and taken possession of in the name of the Spanish monarch. In a few years an enormous revenue was derived from tliis new dependency. Her possessions in America formed not only an intermediate station as a basis of operations, but furnished, also, the gold and silver with Avhich to purchase the silks, porcelain and spices of the Orient. No other nation possessed such facilities for commerce in the Pacific, and no flag but that of Spain fluttered in the trade winds that sweep steadily across that mighty ocean. Not a ship of war cruised on its broad expanse to guard the commerce from hostile fleets. An- nually the galleons sailed from Mexico with gold and silver, and returned laden with the precious products of the East, which were transported across the isthmus to ships waiting to carry them to the mother country. The monarch of that powerful nation was the l)ersonification of arrogance. Over all lands even technically dis- covered l)y his sul)jects he claimed dominion and the exclusive right of trade, even if no settlement of any kind had l)een attem|.)ted. Foreigners of all nations were prolii])ited, under pain of death, from having any intercourse whatever with such territories, or from nav- igating the adjacent waters. Spain was frequently involved in hostilities with her European neighbors, the great revenue derived from her possessions in the New World and her commerce with the Indies furnishing her the " sinews of war." Much as they desired it, her enemies were unable to attack her in this most vital part. Cargo after cargo crossed the Pacific and not a hostile sail was to be seen on the bosom of the ocean. On the Atlantic side, however, things ^vore a different aspect. Armed fleets were necessary to protect her merchantmen from the men of war sent out to cut them off in times of national disputes, and from the piratical crafts that infested the West Indies at all seasons. These "freebooters," or " buccanners," plied their pirati- (•al calling even in times of peace, with the full knowledge and even encouragement of their sovereigns. Tiiey sought diligently for the Northwest Passage. If they could only find some route into the Pacific other than the dangerous one by ^\'ay of the Straits of Ma- 28 IirSTOHY OK WILLAMETTK VALLKY. gellan, they could prey to their liearts' eonteut upon the unprotected coininerce of that ocean. They well knew the value of the cargoes carried in the unarmed galleons from the Philippines. At last, unable to find the Straits of Anian, they invaded the Pacific by the dreaded Straits of Magellan, and the security of Spanish shipping in the South Sea vanished forev.er. The pioneer of this pluiidering l)and was Francis Drake, an English seaman of nnich renown, a daring spirit and expert nuiri- ner. With thi'ee vessels lie thus passed into the Pacific uj)on a mis- sion of plunder. One of these was wrecked soon after passing through the straits, another returned to England, wliile with his one remaining ship Drake sailed u[) the coast, scattering terror and devastation among the Spanish shipping, and levying contributions in the defenceless ports. The East India galleon, with its precious cargo, fell into his hands ofF the California coast, and then, with his vessel loaded with plunder, he sailed northward to search for the Straits of Anian, intending to pass through them into tlie Atlantic and thus reach England by a new route. By doing this he would avoid a coml)at with a S[)anish fleet which he had every reason to expect would be lying in wait for him at the Straits of Magellan. He failed utterly to find any such passage, though hoAv thoroughly he searched the coast is unknown; and even the extent <if his voyage to the north is a matter of nuich dispute. By some authorities it is given as latitude 43°, and by others at 48". To this latter opin- ion all English writers hold, while American liistorians favor the former, and the reason for adopting their separate opinions is not such an one as should actuate the true historian. If Drake did not proceed beyond latitude 43°, then he made no further progress north than did the Spaniard Ferrelo, thirty-five years before, and was not entitled to the honor of discovering any new region (»n the Pacific coast. ' In that event England's claim to Oregon, by right of dis- covery, was without foundation, since prio!" to any subsequent English vt)yage along the coast, several Spanish expeditions coasted its whole length as far as Alaska. If he reached latitude 48°, on the contrary, England's title by right of discovery was imdeniable. Such being the case, and the Spanish title to Oregon having been ac(juired by the United States by purchase and treaty, the reason for the historians , of the two countries espousing different sides, TIIK FABULOUS STRAITS OF ANI VN. 29 \\ithout much reference to the truth of the matter, can be readily perceived. Two accounts of tlu^ voyage were pul)lished, thus furnisliing the foundation for the controversy, and neitlier of these narratives bears eitlier internal or external evidence of complete relia])ility. Tliere may well be a difference of opinion, but the fact that this difference is drawn on national lines is suggestive of bias and a lack of those qualities which mark the true historian. One of them was pu}>- lished by Kichard Hakluyt, the celebrated geographer of those times, in a volume embodying the results of all previous voyages of ex- ploration, and is said to be the production of Francis Pretty, one of Drake's crew ; though English autliors claim it to have been \vritten by Hakluyt himself from accounts oi the voyage related to him some time before, ami thus subject to grievous errors. The other account is one which was published by a nephew of Drake, seventy years after the voyage was completed, and long after every soul who had })articipated in it had passed to his final account; thus tliere was no living witness who could dispute the wildest and most reckless statement the com2)iler might be led to make in his eager- ness to establish his relative's position as discoverer of New Albion, the name Drake had bestowed upon California. The notes used in preparing this volume were credited to Rev. Fletcher, the chaplain of the expedition, and it must be said that in some respects he was the most magnificent liar that ever undertook to deceive an audience absolutely ignoi-ant of the subject with which he dealt. The regions visited \vere entirely unknown, since no information was gained by FeiTelo's voyage, and the world was prepai-ed to believe anything of this region, of which new wonders wn-e constantly l)eing revealed. Rev. Fletcher seems to have realized this, and improved his oppor- tunity ; yet the fact that his nott^s contain what are known to be willful misstatements, is not proof that in this one instance he was not correct, or that his notes were altered by the compiler to read 48° instead of 43°. This want of verai-ity is, of course, a presimip- titm against liis statement in this particular; but it will require something more authentic than the alleged narrative of Francis Pretty to establish their inaccuracy )>eyond dispute. When the whole matter is re\ iewed impartially, the mind naturally leans to- ward the theory of 4.'$ degrees, without, however, feeling completely 30 niSTOUY OF WILLAMETTK VALLKY. satisfied tluit it is the true one. In the nature of tilings this con- troN'ersy can never he setth^i, and Drake and F^errelo will ever bear the divided honor of the discovery of Oregon. Drake's presence on the coast of Oregon, near the forty-third parallel, is proven by Spanish records, which contain a piece of information not to be found in either of the narratives mentioned above. From this it ap[)ears that he had on board a Spanish pilot, named Morera, with whom he felt dissatisfied for some reason, and in the ivgion indicated he ran into a " poor harbor " and put the offending seaman ashore, leaving him among savages, thirty-five hundred miles from civilization. That he accomplished the journey across that unknown land and reached his countrymen in Mexico is evidenced by the fact that the incident is recorded at all, since other- wise it could never have been known. Havinir been forced ))ack along the c(\ast by adverse winds, he entered a small l)ay near lati- tude 38", whe4'e he cast anchor for thirty-six days. It Avas, until recent times, supposed that this harbor was San Francisco Bay, the name helping to support the idea with the unthinking. Later on it will be seen that the bay was thus named l\ honor of an entirely different personage. Sir Francis Drake was the revei-se of a saint in Spanish eyes, and even had they named it in his honor they would have been certain to associate with his name some title more in harmony with their estimation of his character. Drake was in search of the Straits of Anian, and that he lay thirty -six days in San Francisco Bay without even attempting to explore the connect- ing bays of San Pablo and Suisun, and the great na\'igable rivers discharging into them, is so manifestly improbalde as to be beyond credence. There is no positive testimony to support the idea, and the contrary is proven as nearly as purely negative testimony can prove anything. It is generally conceded by historians that Drake's harbor of refuge was the one lying just north of the Golden Gate and known as " Drake's Bay." It is in speaking of this place that Chaplain Fletchei- displays his abilities as a romancer. Tlie time was the month of June, and yet he states that snow covered the hills and that the weather was so cold that meat froze upon being taken from the fire. One familiar with the fact that snow is a rarity there even in winter, and that at no time does it become cold TlIK F VBULOf s STRAITS OK ANIAN. 81 :e's enough to freeze uieat that has never been neai* a fire, lias his cf>nfi- (lence in the w^racity of the chronicler terribly shaken. While lying in the harbor Drake landed an<l took ])ossession of the country in the name of his sovereign, christening it "New Al- bion," in honor of his native land. Fletcher's narrative states that the natives first mistook them for i'ods and offered sacrifices to them, and that they removed this impression by themselves publically offering up their devotions to the Creator, (-)f the inciilents of their landing the narrative says: — Our necessarie business being ended, our Geneml, with liis eonipanie, travailed up into the eountrey to tlieir villiages, wliere we found lieardes of deere l)y 1,(H)U in a companie, being most large and fat of bodie. We found tlie wliole countrny to be a warren of strange liinde of eonnies ; their bodies in bigness as be the Barl)arie oonnies, tlieir heads as the heads of ours, the feet of a Want [mole] and the taile of a rat, being of great length; under her chinne on either side a l)agge, into which she gathered her nieate, when she hath tilled her bellie al)road. The people do eat their bodies, and make aceompt for their skinnes, for tlieir King's coat was made out of them. Our (Jeneral called this countrey Nova Albion, and that for two causes: the one in respect to the white bankes and cliftes which lie toward the sea ; and the other because it might have some artinitie with our countrey in name which sometimes was so called. There is no part of earth here to be taken up, wherein there is not a reasonable quantitie of gold or nilvcr. Before sailing away, our General set up a monument of our being there, as also of her majestie's right and title to the same, viz.: a plate nailed upon a faire great poste, whereupon w»>s engraved her majestie's name, the day and yeare of our arrival there, with the free giving up of the province and peo- ple into her majestie's hands, together with her highness' picture and arms, in a piece of five pence of current English money under the plate, whereuuder was also written the name of our General. What the worthy Chai)lain consideivd a " reasonable quantitie" of the precious metals it is impossil)le t<j conjecture, but the proba- bilities are that he manufactured this statement from whole cloth. The earliest authentic accounts of the Indians of California do not speak of them as possessing any gold or silver, and it was many years after the Spaniai'ds took possession of the State before gold was discovered and mined. At that time the natives were com- pletely ignorant of the character and value of the substance, and had no traditions on the su])ject ; from which may reasonably be concluded that Chaplain Fletcher delibei'ately lied when he made that assertion — the more so, that even to the present time no gold has ))een discovered in the locality of which he speaks. It will be remembei-ed that a fi'W yeai's l)ef(»i-e, wlum America was first dis- covered, it was the general belief that it was speckled with gold .'V2 1IIHTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. an<l silver, and glistened with gems. These extravagant ideas had become modified in Drake's^ time, though by no means abandoned. The S[)aniar(ls had been searching a few years before in this direc- tion for wealthy nations, whose existence was reported to them by the Indians of Mexico, but without success. Tliey still enteiiained the Ijelief that [tearls and the precious metals could be found in abundance in this region, and Fletcher was simply supplying a " long felt want " when he wrote that a " reasonable quantitie of gold and silver" existed in every handful of dirt that might be taken U[) at random on the California coast. His other statements are probably correct, since ground squirrels exis t in such abundance there and are so destructive to crops that the state granted a bounty for their extermination, and the early pioneers speak of immense bands of antelope and elk tliat roamed the valley and foot-hills. Having abandoned the hope of finding a passage into the At- lantic, and fearing to attempt to return by the Straits of Magellan, Drake undertook the long voyage across the Pacific, and reached England by weathering the Cape of Good Hope. His return with his vessel loaded with plimdered riches of the Spaniards was hailed with joy by his countrymen. The interests of Spain and England were hostile. The latter looked with jealousy and fear upon the power of the Castilian thione, sustained by the enormous revenue derived fi-om America and the Indies, and Queen Elizabeth knighted the daring robber for his services to his country in striking such a severe blow at the resources of her rival. Ten years later, when the grand Philip sent that wonderfid Spanish Armada, which was fitted out by revenues derived from this same commerce and was to crush England at a blow, one of the gallant fleets which met and defeated it was commanded by Sir Francis Drake. Other English freebooters, encouraged b} the brilliant success of Drake, entered the Pacific in che same manner and preyed upon the Spanish shipping. The first and most successful of these was Thomas Cavendish, who voyaged the coasts of Chili, Peru and Mexico in 1587; sunk and burned nineteen vessels, and captured the galleon Santa Anna off the coast of California. The next year he returned to England by the Cape of Good Hope, having accom- plished the third circumnavigation of the glol)e, and it is said that THK rABTTLOriS STRAITS OK ANTAN. 88 his crew were dreHsed in silks, his sails made of damask, aiid the topmast covered with cloth of gold. Great exertions were now made by the English and Dutch to find the Northwest Passage, and frequent rumors were spread that the Straits of Anian had actually been discovered, creating much joy in England and Holland, and causing great anxiety in Spain, Spanish America and the Philippines. Many chiinis were mach* to having made this disc(»verv l>y paities who could not substantiate them. This was done for various reasons. Some enjoyed the noto- riety and fame, as a great navigator, such rei)orts brought them; others endeavored to secure a reward for tlieii' alleged services to their country, and still others ho})ed to thus win employment in their business, or receive the conuuand of an expedition to locate detinitely the pf»sition oi the ]>assage. So frequent were these tales, and so much at variance with v^ach othei', that they all fell into disre})ute, and it is doubtful had such a strait been actually found if geogra- })hers could have been l»rought to believe it. Tlie fiction of this character which attracted the most attention and which had the most influence in dictating the character of expeditions in after years, wjis one niaile by Captain Loren/o Ferrer de Maldonado, a Portu- guese. In 1()(>9 this gentleman presented a petition to the Spanish Council of the Indies — that august body which, sitting in S[)ain, ruled the S})anish ])ossessions in India and America— asking for a suitable reward for his services, and the command of a Spanish expe- dition to take [)ossession of the straits and fortify theui against the l>a«sage of ships of any other nation. The voyage upcm which Maldonado based his claim he asserte<l to ha\e been nuule twenty-one years before, in l.")S8. By this time it was conce<led that the distance fi'oni the Atlantic to the Pacific, in the northern regions, was gi-eater than it was formerly supposed to be, and this le<l Maldonado to locate the Straits of Anian far to the westward of those thus chi-istened by Cortereal. This latter passage he placed as far north as latitude 7.")", instead of ()()", their true location as given by Cortereal himself. His narrative asserted that the vessel passed through a long and tortuous channel in the seventy-fifth parallel, into the " North Sea," an entirely unknown V)ody of water at that time, but which corresponds in location to the Arctic Ocean, which, however, has no such passage leading into it, % ;h HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLKY. and which is utterly iiniiavigahlf by reason of its vast iit'lds of ice. Across this Noith Sea he sailed in a southwesterly ilirection a dis- tance of 7tH> leagues (ahout .'{,()()(> miles), when he came upon the Straits of Anian, leading directly south into the South Sea. This wondeiful passage he thus descriltes: — Huviiijf I'leart'd tl»e Strait of Jjuliratlor, we began to descend from that latitude, stoffinj!; weMt-Houtliwt'Ht and soiithwcHt, three hundred and ttfty leagueu, to the Tlst degree of latitude, when we perceived a high coast, without being able to tell whether it was part of the continent or an island ; but we remarked that, if it were the continent, it nuist be oi)poHite the coast of New Spain. From this land we directed our course wcst-soutliwest, four hundred and forty leagues, until we came to the (iOtli degree, in which parallel we discovered the Strait of Anian. * * * * The strait which we discovered in 60°, at the distance of one thousand seven hundred and ten leagues from Spain, appears, according to ancient tradition, to be that named l)y geographers, in their maps, the Strait of Anian; and, if it be so, it must be a strait having Asia on the one side, and America on the other, which seems to be the case, according to the following narrative :—" As soon as we had cleared the strait, we coasted along the shores i>f America for more than one hundred leagues south westward, to the noth degree of latitude, on which coast there were no inhabitants, or any opening indicating the vicinity of another strait, through which the South Sea, flowing into the North, might insulate that part: and we concluded that all that coast belonged to America, and that continuing along it, we might soon reach the t^uivira and Cape Mendocino. We then left this coast and, sailing to- wards the we.-tt four days, we discovered a very high land, and continued along the coast, from v/hich we kept at a safe distance, always in the open sea— sailing, at one time, to the northeast, at others towards the north-northeast, and again to the north, whence it "teemed to us that the coast ran northeast and southwest. " We were unable to mark any particular points, on account of our distance from land ; and we can, therefore, only attirm that it is inhabited, nearly to the entrance of the strait, as we saw smoke rising up in many places. This country, according to the c'lurts, must belong to Tartary, or Cathaia (China), and at a distance of a few leagues from the co'wt must be the faui.'d f iiy of Cambula, the metropolis of Tar- tary. Finally, having followed the direciit.n of this coast, we found ourselves at the entrance of the same Strait of Anian, which, flfteen days before, we had passed through to the open sea; this we knew to !»' the South Sea, where are situated .Japan, China, the Mouluccax, India, New (irnea, and the land discovered by Cap- tain Quiros, with all the coast of New Spain and Peru. * * * * * " The Strait of Anian is tifteen leagues in length, and C4in easily be passed with a tide lasting six hours, for those tides are very rapid. There are, in this length, six turns, and two entrances, which lie north and south ; that is, bear from each other north and south. The entrance on the north side (through which we passed) is less than half a quarter of a league in width, and on each side are ridges of high rocks; but the rock on the side of Asia is higher and stec|>er than on the other, and hangs over, so that nothing falling from the tops can reach its base. The entrance into the South Sea, near the harbor, is more than a quarter of a league in width, and thence the passage runs in an obli<(Ue dii'ection, increasing the distance between the two coasts. In the middle of the strait, at the termination of the third turn, is a great rock, and an inlet, formed by a rugged rock, three entadias (about one thou- sand one hmidred feet I in height, more or less; its form is round, and its diameter may be two hundrcil paces ; its distance from the land of Asia is very little ; but the TlIK FAHl'LOITS STRAITS OK ANIAN, 86 sea on that Hide is full of slioaln and reefn, and can be only navigatod liy bouts. The distance between this inlet and the continent of America is less than a ((uartcr of a league in width, and, although its channel is ho deep that two or even three Hhijm sail abreast through it, two bastions might be built on tho lianlts with little trouble, which would contract the channel to within the reacli of a musket sliot. " In the harbor in which our ships anchored, at the entrance of the strait, on the south side, we lay from the beginning of April to the middle of June, when a large vessel of eight hundred tons burden came there from the (South Sea, in order to pass the strait. Upon this we put ourselves on our guard ; but, having come to an under- standing with her, I found them willing to give us some of fheir merchandise, the greater part of which consisted of articles similar to those manufactured in China, such as brocades, silks, porcelain, feathers, precious stones, pearls, and gold. These people seemed to be Hanseaiics, who inhabit the bay of St. Nicliolas, or tlie port of St. Michael (Archangel, on the White Sea). In order to understand one another we were forced to speak Latin— those of our jiarty who understood that language talking with those on board theship who were also accjuainted with it. They did not seem to be Catholics, but Lutherans. They said they came from a large city more than one hundred leagues from the strait, and though I can not exactly remember its name, I think they called it Rohr, or some such name, which they said had a good harbor and a navigable river, and was subject to the great khan, as it belonged to Tartary ; and that in that port they left another ship belonging to tlieir country. We could learn no more from them, as they acted with great caution and little con- fidence, being afraid of our company ; wherefore we parted from them near the strait, in the North Sea, and set sail towards Spain." It is barely possible tliut a voyage may have l)eeii made about the time mentioned in the memorial, during which the vessel entered Hudson's Bay, and that Maldcmado was a seaman or sub-officer on board, which would accoiuit for his ignorance on such technical points as the degrees of latitude and number of miles sailed, and that two decades later, when his superior officers were dead and he him- self had risen in rank, he desired the command of an expedition to search for these straits in whose existence he firmly believe<l, and which he claimed to have seen simply to lend weight to his })etition. This, however, is improbable, and it is more than likely that the ^vhole narrative was a fal)rication. Diligent search among Spanish and Portuguese records of those times has failed to reveal any indi- cation of such a voyage, or any coniirmatory evidence whatever, other than the memorial itself. At that time (1588) Spain and England were al)sor})ed in the conflict ovei' the Spanish Armada, yet it is doubtful if that is a sufficient reason t'oi" the omission to record in any manner such a voyage as the one thus described by Maldonado. The evidences against the genuineness of the narrative are almost convincing, even when considered without reference to the fact that m HISTORY OF WILLAMETTK VALLEY. it is ii(»\v i'\i(leiit no such jniMsage exists. In his narrative, which was unusually precise and careful in its details, Maldonado gave all the geoirraphical ideas of the time in regard to the rc^gions that Would naturally l)e visite<l; and this very fact is strongly presuinj)tive (•\id(^nce that the vt)yage was a fiction, as these i-heories, ho carefully followed, have nearly all been f( mud to he false. Even the minute- ness of detail is suspicious, since it is chiefly the inaccurate records, clumsy narratives, and "yarns" flowing fi'om tlie fertile imagina- tion of the sea rovers, to which many of the erroneous, and even ludicrous, ideas of those times ai'e directly chargeable. No such caivfuhiess in statement i-haracterized tiiv^ utU'ratixe «)f a;iy prior or coutem])orary voyage, and this was the first one claiming to have accomplished so much, which did not sadly nuir the nuips of theo- retical ge<oi;i pliers. Its ready-uuide a]>pearajice was sufficient to cause its < i, re rejection by the CVmncil of the Indies. In after years, however, two co[iies of this memorial, of the ex- istence of which the vorld was ignorant, were fotnid among ancient records at different places, each one purporting to )»e the original document. They created great excitement, and, as will be seen later,, Iiad nuich to do with the shaping of exphu'ations for a century thereafter. As h'te as ITiM), when the heated controversy ovei- the Nootka afFa'i* seemed al)out to ])lunge F^ngland and Spain into war, the (piestion of the autheiiticity of Maldonad >'s narrative wax gi-avely discussed, and a last thorough search was made in Spain and Por- tugal for confirmative evidence, which was as fruitless as had been all previous efforts. With the end of thnt controversy Maldonado's mythical straits disapjjeared forever from the jdaneof active histoi'y and took its proper place in the domain of romance. •(CHAPTER III. THE STRAIT8 OK .HAN DK FUCA AND THE RIVER OF KINGS. Xitri'dtive of Mirhdi'l Lock, the Polder— St(,/'i/ of Ji/an de Fthra, as told hy Loci- — I)f,s(u-i]>tioii. of the Straits of Fiica — Vontroversij among HistorUms over Fui;ti''s aJleged. Voyaije -Both Sides Carefully Con- sidered — Probably a Myth -Advilral Fontes alleged Voyage — The River of Kings — Its Absurdity Pointed (hit. THERE is still anotlier somewhat iiiytliical voyas^e associated with this search for the Sti'aits of Aiiiaii, which has jtlayed a most important ))!irt in the history of Oregon; and thonjxh it comes entirely thi'ouu'ii Ent^lish sonrces, is nttei'ly rei)ndiated hy modern English historians, and even receives hut little credence among American writers. This is the ceiel>rate(l voyage of Juan de Fuca, who '\H clainie(| to have discoveivd the Straits of I'uca, that hroad channel separating a portion of Washington Territory from Van- cover Island, in Hi'itish ('olund)ia. There was puhlished in London, in IB".*.'), a celel. rated historical and geographical work, edited hy iSamuel Purchas, which hon> the odd title of " The Pilgrims." Among other things, this volume con- tained "A note l»y Michael 'iock, the eldei', touching the Strait of Sea, commonly calleci Fi-etum ^\nian, in the South Sea, througii the Northwest Passage of Mv'<^a Incognita." The most inijtortant por- tion of this alleged dt»cument of Mr. Lock is as follows; -- When I was in ViMii(!e, in Ai)ril, loiHi, liaply arrive<l tiiere an ()1<1 man, alxmt Hixty years of age, failwi, cDinmon'.y, .Juiin de Fuca, l)iit named properly ApoHtolas Vulerianus, of nation a Greel<, l)orn In ("eplialonia, of profession a maiim r, and an ancient pilot of sliips. Tills man, Itein^ eonie lately out of Spain, arrived lir.st ut Leghorn, and went thence to Florence, where he found one Joiui Dim^: Ian, an En- glishniau, a famous mariner, ready condng from Venice, to lie pilot oi n X'eiietian ship for England, in wlioae company they came both together to Venice. And John Dougliw l)eing acquainted with nie before, he gave me knowledge of this ;5s HISTOHY (»!■' WII.I.AMKTTK VALLKY. Greek pilot, and liroiij^ht hill! !<i my H|)et!C'h ; and in loiiK talks and conforent'e l)e- tween u.3, in j)re8ence of John DoupltiH, this (Jroek pilot dwlaied, in the Italian and .Spanish lansnages, this much in ofloct as followeth : Fii-st, he said he had been in the West Indies of Hpain forty years, and had sailed to and from many i)laces thereof, in the service of the Spaniards. Also, he said that he was in the Spanish ship, which, in returning from the Islands Philippines, towards Nova Spania, was robbed and taken at the Cape California by (.'aj)tain Candish, Kn^li^hman, whereby he lost 60,0(10 ducats of his goods. Also, he said that he was pilot of three .small ships which the V^iceroy of Mexico sent from Mexifo, armed with 100 men, under a captain, Spaniards, to discover the Straita of Anian, along the coast of the South Sea, and to fortify in that strait, to resist the pa.s.Hage and i)roceedings of the English nation, which were forced to pass through those straits into the South Sea; and that, by reason of a mutiny which lui])i)ened among the soldiers for the misconduct of their captain, that voyage vv'us overthrown, and the ship returned from Califor- nia to Nova Spania, without anything done in that voyage ; and that, after their return, the captain was at Mexico punished by uistice. Also, he said that, shortly after the said voyage was so ill-ended, tiie salt' Viceroy of Mexico .sent him out again, in 1.502, witli a snudl caravel and a pinnace, armed with mariiu-rs only, to follow the said vr)yage for the disc(!very of the Straits of Anian, and the ))a8sage thereof into the sea, which they cjill the North Sea, which is our northwest sea: and that he followed his course, in that voyage, west and northwest in the South Sea, all along the coast of Nova Spania, and California, and the Indies, now called North America (all which voyage he signified to me in a great map, and a sea-card of my own, which I laid l)efore him), until he came to the latitude of 47 degrees ; and that, there finding that the land trended north and northwest, with a broad inlet of sea, between 47 and 48 degrees of latitude, he entered tliereinto, sailing therein more than twenty days, and found that land trending still sometimes north- west, and northeast, aiid north, and also east and southeastward, and very much broadei sea than was at the said entrance, and that he passed by divers islands in that sailing ; and that, at the entrance of this said strait, there is, on the northwest coast thereof, a greiit headland or island, with an exceeding high pinnacle, or spired rock, like a pillar, thereu|)on. Als(>, he said that he went on land in divers places, and that ho saw somf people on laid clad in lietwts' skins; and that the land is very fruitful, and rioli of gold, silver, pearls, and other things, like Nova Spania. Also, he said that he being entered thus far into the said strait, and being come into the North Sea already, and finding the sea wide enough everywhere, and to be about thirty or forty leagues wide in the mouth of the straits where he entered, h< thought he had now well discharged his otflcy; and that, not being armed to resist the force of the savage people that might hapi)en, he therefore set sail and returned home- wards again towards Nova Spania, where he arrived at Acapvdco, Anno 1502, hop- ing to be rewarded by the Viceroy for this .service done in the said voyage. * » * [Here follows an account of his vain endeavors for three years to secure a proper recognition of his services by the Viceroy or the Spanish monarch, and his resolu- tion to return to his native land to die among his countrymen.] Also, he said i,:; thought the cause of his ill reward had of the Spaniards, to be for that they _. understand very well that the English nation had now given over all their voyages for discovery of the northwest passage; wherefore, they need not fear them any more to come tliat way into the South Sea, and therefore they needed not his ser- vice therein any more. Also, he said that, underatanding the noble mind of the Queen of England, and of her wars against the Spaniards, and lioping that her majesty would do him justice for his goods lost by Captain Candith, he wonlJ be content to go into England and serve her niajsty in that voyage , r !l;c r?jn'>\{ -y perfectly of (he northwest pa.ssage into the South Se-i, If she w< uld furiil.-!> ."-ii STKAITS (»K .HTAN DK I'MICA AND IMVKK OK KINCS, 39 with only one shi)) of forty tons liunleu, and a pinnace, and that he would perform it in thirty days' time, from one end to the other of the strait, and he willed me so to write to England. And, from conference had twice witli the said Greek pilot, I di<l write thereof, accordingly, to England, unto the right honorable the old Lord Treasurer Cecil, and to f<ir Walter Jlaleigli, and to Master Uichard Hakluyt, that famous cosmograj)her, certifying thein hereof. And I i)rayed them to disburse £100, to bring the said Greek pilot into Phigland, with myself, for that my own purse would not stretch so wide at that time. And I had answer that this action wa« well liked and greatly desired in Kngland ; but the money was not ready, and therefore this action died at that time, though the said Greek pilot, perchance, liveth still in liis own country, in C'ephalonia, towards which place he went within a fortnight after this conference had at Venice. There is more of tlie <locunieiit, detailino; ([iiite a correspondence between Lock and the (xreek, from which it appears that the old pih>t was alive in 1598, l>-.it that in KWl'J, when Lock had finished his Imsin.^ss in Venice Mid was pi-eparing to retnrn to Enghind, he aihlre.'Jsed a letter to Fnca, to which he I'eceived no answer, and that a sliort time afterwards he learned that the (Ireek was dead. There lias l»een much controversy among historians as to the antlienti'.'ity of this document. In the long negotiations between England and the United States in regard to t'le location of the international boundary line, it was vigoi-oiisly snj)])orted tn the Amei'icans and a.s earnestly cond»ated by the repi'esenttttives of Great Britain. As in the discussion of Sir Francis Drake's voyage, writers were divided strictly upon national lines, and thus are subject to the charge of l)ias and jn'ejndice. A fair examinaiion will convince an im]»artial ])erson that, although it is not im])ossible the voyage was made, tlie prol (abilities are that the letter of Mr. Lock wasonecom- iv»sed for the pur])ose of creating a sensation, and no such personage :■ . Juan de Fuca e\er existed. The English writers seem to have espoused the ))etter side of the argument, though there is no reason to suppose they wonld not have as iea<li'.y advocated the o|)posite one had tlie interests of (Jreat P»ru.;in (•e(|nired it. The i(uestion was long siiu-e settled and ihe boundary established at the forty- ninth parallel and theStraitsof Fuca; and now, freed from national l»rejudice, American writers generally declare their belief that the voyage of the (Jreek pilot was a myth. Hrieiiy presented, the argu- ments on either si<l<* are as follows: — It is maintained by the su|)j)orters of the <locument that the statements therein contained are, many of them, kiiown to b«' true; that in itn geographical descriptions it is nK)re accurate than the 40 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTK VAI.LKY. report of any prfvioiis Spanish voyaire; that the fact of his locating the entrance t»» the passage hetween hititudes 47 ami 4S degrees, instead of 4s and 4V> degives, is not as sei'ious a>i their opponents assert, since much greater eri'ors in lt»cating well-known o]>jects appear in the accounts of voyages of whose authenticity there is no dispute. The Spaniards were not scientific navigators, and their reports hristle with errois in hititude, while longitiule seems to iiave been entirely l>eyond them. This lack of accuracy prevente<l them from making a c< xct map of the coast line <»f California, even after they had expl(</ 1 sailed along it for two centui'ies. There is, also, a marked abseu. .>f tliose stereotyped descriptions of won- derful cities and strange peoples which seems to have formed such an im])ortant part of the accounts of many |>reviousand sul»se([uent voyages. A careful comj>arison l>y one who is familiar with tlie jj:e()ofrai)h\' of that reirioii will convince him that in the narrative the Straits of Fuca are very accurately descrihed — with tiie excej)tion of the givat rocky pillar on the northwest — es])ecially in the fact that the land north of tiie straits ( X'aucouver Island) trends ttt the northwest. lie sailed in the jiassage twenty days, finding numerous islands and arms of the ocean running in all directions, and finally emerged into the Niu-th Sea. What could more accurately describe a voyage through the Straits of Fuca and (^ulf of (ieorgia, l»etvveen Vancouvei' Island and the mainlaml, until the open ocean was again reached on the uoithwest ^ It is not claimecj that he enteivd the Atlantic, but the Xorth Sea of Mal«l(»nado; and it nuist be borne in mind that the Straits of Anian sis then understood^that described by Maldonado — was a long jmssage, leading in a general north and south direction, c-onnecting the South Sea with the supposwl North Sea, and that to reach the Atlantic ivqiiii'ed a l<»ng voyage across this North Sea and through the Straits of Labrador. It must be a<lmit- ted, then, that the descriptions given in Lctck's acc(»unt ai'e wonder- fully accurate if they are wholly inuiginary; and as to the error in latitude — a matter of only a few miles — aside from the rejisons already given, may it not be accounteil for by the fact that the nar- rative is written from menutry by a second party wh(t had received but an oral account of the vovaire^ The chief objection to the voyage is, that there is no confirmatory evidence whatever to support it. Neither the i-oyal nor colonial STKAITS OF JUAN 1)K FUC'A AND KIVKK OK KINCJS. 41 records of Spain contain the faintest allusion to it, although other voyages, and especially some made l)Ut a few years later, ai'e recorded at length. The narrative of Lock was not gi\en to the public until a quarter of a century had ela])sed, and evei'y one who might have had any j)ersonal knowledge of it avjis proltahly dead. Richard Hakluyt, one of the three gentlemen to whom it is said Lock wi'ote in relation to the matter from Venice, was one of the greatest men of his age. He was an enthusiastic geographer, who s})ent much time and money in collecting and publishing the accounts of all important voyages ma<le by the representatives of England, or any other nation. It is im])ossible to believe that he could have been so indifferent to the sul)ject of L'-^-kV letter, since the Straits of Anian were the al)sorl)ing geographical <^nigma of the times, as to have let the matter of £100 prevent him from bringing the Greek pilot to England; and it is e(pially strange that no hint of such a voyage is given in any of his works, though he is admitted to have been the most thoi'ough and correct geograj)her of the sixteenth century. An(^ther objectit>n, and perha])s the strongest one, is the fact that at the very time Juan de Fuca is asserted to liave been urging his claim for a reward upon the King of Spain, another Spanish expedition was dispatched in search of the Straits of Anian, and in the letter of instructions, which details at length the reasons for ordering the voyage, no allusion is made to Fuca or his straits. Had such a voyage as Fuca's actually })een made, this second expedition would certainly have availed itself of the knowledge thus gained. Instead of doing so, the record of that voyage conclusively shows that the commander must have been utterly ignorant of Fuca and his alleged voyage ; and this proves, also, that he could have had no secret instructions on the subject. In viewing the n.atter critically, it must be admitted that the evidences against the authenticity of the voyage, though entirely of a negative character, greatly outweigh the one circumstantial evi- dence in its favor — the fact that a passage much similar to the one described actually exists a iew miles to the north of the location fixed in the narrative. Juan de Fuca's voyage was probably a myth. The third and last mythical passage to receive popular credence and engage the attention of geographers and explorers for years, 42 IIISTOlfY OK WILLAMKTTE VALLKY. was the River of Kings, tlie Tlio <1e los Reyes of Atliuiral Fonte. Like the iiaiTatives of Maldoiiado and Fuca, this did not reach the public until many years had elapsed fi-om the time assigned to the voyage, and this fact alone is almost (ionclusive evidence of its man- ufactured character. Such a voyage as any of these would have been made ])ublic soon after its completion, so eager were the learned men of the time to gain all the information possible on these subjects. It was natural for a person inventing such a tale to assign a date so far back that he need have no fear of a personal contradiction. A magazine entitled Monthly Miscellany, or Memoires of the Curious^ was pul)lished in London in 170S, containing a long ac- count of a voyage alleged to have been made in 1640, sixty-eight years previously, from the Pacific to the Atlantic and return, through a system of rivers crossing North America al)out the fifty-third par- allel The man who is credited with nuiking this wonderful voyage is Admiral Pedro Bartolonu'^ de Fonte, of the Spanish Marine. According to the account given in this magazine, Admiral Fonte was instructed by the Viceroy of Peru to ex2)lore the Pacific cojust of North America for a passage leading into the Atlantic, and to intercept some Boston vessels which the Viceroy had learned had sailed upon the* same errand on the Atlantic coast. He sailed from Callao in April, 1(>4(), with four vessels. At Cape San Lucas he dispatched one of these to explore the Gulf of California, and with the remaining three continued up the coast. In latitude oJi degrees, after sailing a long distance among islands, Avhich he christened the "Archipelago de Lazarus," he observed the mouth of a great river, which he decided to enter. One of his vessels was sent further up the coast, under the cimimand of Caj)tain Bernardo, while with the other two he ascended the stream, ^vhose great pro])ortions won from him the title of " Rio de los Reyes," or " River of Kings." This he followed in a northeasterly direction a long distance, finally reach- ing its source in an inunense lake, which he named " Lake Belle." This was the country of a wealthy and civilized nation, whose chief town, on the south shore of the lake, was called Conasset, and who entertained the strangers who had so unexpectedly come among them in a most hospitable manner. This lake was evidently on the summit of the divide between the ^vaters of the two oceans, for flowing from it in an opposite direction from the river he had STRAITS OK JTTAN DE FirCA AND UIVKH OF KFNOS. 43 ascended was another large stream, which he caUed " Parmentier." Lea\nng his vessels at Conasset, he descended the Pariuentier until he entered another lake, upon which he bestowed his o^vn name, from which he passed through a narrow strait into the Atlantic ocean. This last passage he named " Strait of Ron(piillo," in honor of the captain of one of his vessels. Thus, through a continuous waterway of rivers and lakes, he h;ul passed through the entire con- tinent of North America. When that story was written the author little dreamed that in the latitude assigned to this wondeiful passageway the continent was more than five thousand miles in width. Having entered the At- lantic the Admiral soon encountered the Boston \essel which it was feared- had designs upon the Spanish possessions in the Pacific. The captain of the colonial craft was Nicholas Shapley, and on board was its o\vner, one Seymour Gibbons, whom Fonte described as "a fine gentleman, and major-general of the largest colony in New England, called Maltechusetts" Fonte decided to treat these strangers as peaceful traders, and the repn^sentatives of these two nations indulged in a series of mutual entertainments which appear to have given the Admiral gi'eat satisfaction. He then returned to the Pacific l)y the route he had come, finding his vessels waiting for him in good condition in Lake Belle, the inhabitants of Conasset having refrained from molesting them. At the mouth of the River of Kings he was joined by Bernardo, who had an e([ually wonder- ful tale to relate. He, too, had discovered a gi-eat river, in latitude 01 degrees, and had ascended it to its soiu"ce in a large lake. These he called " Rio de Haro," and " Lake Velasco." From the lake he fiscended another stream in canoes as high as the seventy-ninth par- allel, but observing the land " still trending north, and the ice rested on the land, he l)ecame satisfied that there was no comnumication out of the Atlantic Sea by Davis' Strait**; for the natives had con- ducted one of his seamen to the head of Davis' Strait, which termi- nated in a fresh lake, of about thirty miles in circumference, in the eightieth degree of north latitude, and there were prodigious moun- tains north of it." He, therefore, returned to the Pacific to rejoin his commander. Fonte was satisfied from the report that the Straits of Anian did not exist, and returned to Peru to report that fact, 44 HI8T0RV OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. and the woiidevfnl i-ivei- loufe he had discovered thnmgh the con- tinent. This whole story is utterly al)surd, in the light of our jwesent knowledge of geography, hut was fai- from being ^o at the time it was promulgated. Yet it eontains enough inconsistencies ami pal- pable errors to luiAe even then condemned it in the eyes of a critical reader. The statement that in 1(540, (mly ten years after Boston vva,s founded, the people of that struggling c(.lony were searching for the Straits of Anian is too improl)aide foi- belief. This English historian should have known, also, that Massachusetts was ijoverned at the date mentioned )>y John Winthrop and not by Seymour Gib- bons, whc^se name does not ai)pear at all in the list of iVew Entrland governors or " maj( )r -genera Is." N, ,t the slightest reference is mmle to it in the records of Spain or Peru, and it is now generally con- ceded that the story is a creation of James Petiver, an eminent nat- uralist, \\ho ^\-as a frerpient contributor to the magazine in which it first appeared. CHAPTER IV. VOYAGES AND EVENT8 OK THE HEVKNTKENTH (JENTUHY. rhU'ip orders a Voyage along the Pac'ijic Coaxt—lieAixonn Aimlyned hij Torquemada and Venegas — Vlwulno sent out hij the Vireroi/ in 1596 — Viscaino's .second Voi/age in 100^2- -Raragen of the Scui-vq— lie Enters Monterey —Arg a tnent of the Cktiin that he Entered San Franciaco Bay Earliest Positioe Knowledge of that Harbor Vis- cai.no goes to Latitude 4'2° ami returns : but Aguilar reaches ^3° Vajje Blanco ami the River of Aguilar- California Supposed to be an Island Viscaino dies after Obtaining a Royal Mandate to occupy Monterey-Spain Ceuses all Exploration <f the Coast. A'^ the vurioiis roiuMUces whu-h luive heeu c-oiisideicd were all published niauy year.s after the date ay<cril>ed to the voyages of \vhieh they speak, it is now necessary to turn hack to these times and see what wa,s actually l)eing accomplished. The first thin<^ to be fouiid affectiuir Oregon is the voyage of Sebastian Viscaino. It has l)een seen that at the very time when Juan de Fuca was impor- tuning the Spanish monai'ch for recognition of his services, accord- ing to Lock's letter, that r(»yal personage ordere<l a survey of the Pacific Coast. The i-easons that moved Philij) II., in 155U"), to issue his royal uuindate tt) the Mexican Viceroy are thus set forth by Torquemada:— His majesty kwcw that the viceroys of Mexico imtl endeavored to discover a northern passage, and lie had found, among his father's pajiers, a declaration of certain strangers, to the e<r?ct that they had lieen driven, by violent winds, from the codfish coa«t on the At'aiitic, to the South .Sea, through the Strait of Anian, which is beyond Cape Mendocino, and had, on their way, seen a rich and populous city, well fortified, and inhabited by a numeroue and civilized nation, who had treated them well; as also many other things worthy to bt> seen and known. His majesty had also lieen informed that ships, sailing from China to Mexico, ran great risks, particularly near Cape Meiwlocino, where the stones are most violent, and tiiat it would be advantageous to have that coa-xt surve.\ed thence to Acapulco, so 4r. niSTOKY OK WILLAMETTE VALLKY. that till! Hhips, mostly belonginj? to hiw majesty, Hhoiild find places for relief and refreshment when needed. Whereupon his majesty ordered the ('ount de Monte- rey, Viceroy of Mexico, to have those coasta surveyed, at his oivn expense, with all care and diligence. ILilf a century later another Spanisli historian, Venegaw, gave the foHowing reasons for Spain's an.xiety to become better infonnetl <»f the coast above Cape Mendocino: — That in the meantime the English should find out the so-nmch-desired passage to the South Sea, by thu north of America and above California, which passage is not universally denied, and one day may be found; that they may fortify them- selves on both sides of this passage, and thus extend the P^nglish dominion from (he north to the south of America, so as to border on our possessions. Should English colonies and garrisons be established along the coast of America on the South Sea beyond Cape Mendocino, or lower down on California itself, England would then, without control, reign mistress of the sea and its commerce, and be able to threaten by land and sea the territories of Spain ; invade them on occasion from the E., W., N. and S., hem them in and press them on all sides. In this is contained no hint of Juan de Fnca; and if the conduct of men can be considered as indicative of their nu)tives, it must be admitted that the King, the Viceroy and the coniuumders of the vari- ous expeditions, Avere utterly ignorant of the Greek's alleged voyage, notwithstanding Lock's letter states that the old pilot had in vain urged the Viceroy and the King to take possession of the Straits of Fuca. The Viceroy of Mexico did not feel an interest in the Straits of Anian, or the California Coast, deep enough to render him eager to explore them at his own expense, as commanded to do l)y the king; yet he dared not disobey the royal mandate. lie made a showing of compliance, by dispatching Sebastian Viscaino from Acapulco, in the spi'hig of 159(5, with thi'ee vessels. These did not jn'oceed beyond Lower California, where two feeble and unsiicc«^ssfid efforts were made to plant colonies, leaving the great objects of the expe- dition untouched. The death of the king, in 1508, served as an excuse for ceasing even these feeble efforts, Avhich made extensive drafts upon the Viceroy's revenue. The respite was only temporary, however, for Philip IIL followed his father's ideas on the subject, and peremptorily ordered his representative in Mexico to make these explorations without delay. There was nothing now to do but to comply with the King's command, and an expedition was fitted out, composed of two vessels and a small fragata^ and entrusted to tlie command of Viscaino. VOYAGES AND EVENTS OF THE SEVENTP:ENTII OENTUKY. 47 Ico, Till' fleet Huilcd May 5, 1 ()()•_», from Aoipiilco, well sii|»|)ll('(I with ]»il(>tH, (Iraughtsii It'll and jn-iests — the first to navigate the ships, the second to make nia])s (»f the eoiist, and the thii'd to kee])aii aeeiirate account of the voyage, a literary feat few besides priests were al»le to acc()iin)lish in those (hiys, when the sword was mightier than the pen. The juiestly autiiorship of the records of the voyage is fully attested by the passage in Toriiiiemada, which, in speaking of the head winds which baffled the vessels for a long time, says that they were produced "by the foe of the human race, in order to ju'eveiit the advance of the ships, and to delay the discovery of tiiese coun- tries, and the conversion of their inhabitants to the ( athoiic faith." As the fleet advanced scurvy made its a])j)earance among the seamen, and its terrible ravages added to the adverse winds to con- vince the priests that the Evil One was d(»iiig his utmost to oppose their progress. In the face of all this the vessels steadily advanced iiortlnvard, entering successively the ports of San Quentin, San Diego and Monterey. Sixteen of the crew having died and many others being utterly incapacitated for duty by the horrible malady, it was decideil at Monterey to send one of the vessels back with the invalids. This ship was commanded l)y Torebio (xomes de Corvan, and reached Acajmlco, with but few of her crew alive, after a voy- age whose horrors have no [)arallel in the annals of the sea. On the third of January, 1(103, tlie two remaining vessels sailed fi-om Monterey, and were soon afterwards se[)arated by a violent storm, and were not again united. Viscaino, in the larger (me, instituted a seai'cli for the wreck of a Manila galleon, which had been cast away on this part of the coast eight years before. It was for a h)ng time supposed that he entered San Francisco Harbor, sir., e Tortpie- mada says: " He anchored ])ehind a point of rocks calievi La Punta de los lieyes, in the port of San Francisco;" but that idea does not seem consistent with other facts, and is not endorsed by the best authorities. It does not seem possible that an explorer could have passed the Golden Gate and entered the \vondei'ful harbor of San Francisco w^ithout making such a record and description ot it as would leave no room for error. As in the case of Drake, Viscaino was engaged in the search for something, which, upon entering this beautiful bay, he would have congratulated himself upon discover- ing; and he certainly would have taken as much pains to describe it 4« HISTORY OF WILLAMETTK VALLKT. as he (lid other and comparatively in^<i^nificant places. Viscaino was seai'i'hiiii; for a harl>or of refuge, and here, in the most desirable loeality pt»ssil»le, was a magnificent liarhor that could hold the fleets of the world; yet upon his return to Mexico he strongly urged the Viceroy to estaldish stations at the greatly inferior harhoi-s of San I)ieg«» and Monteivy, an<l said nothing about San Francisco what- ever. In all prohaltility the port he entered was the same one in which Drake had anchored twenty -five years before. Just when San Francisco Hay was discovered is uncertain. The lii'st time Caucassians are known to have visited it was in 17<)i>, when a pai-ty of Spaniards unexpecte<lly came upon it while search- ing for the liay of Monterey, and gave it the name it bears. Yet it is almost a mattei" (»f certainty that some one must have visited it long before, for in 1 74"J an English conunodore, named Anson, ca[)- tured an East Indian galleon, and uyxm a chait found on the vessel apj)eare(l, in the latitude of this bay, seven little dots, marked " L( Farallones,'" and opj)osite these was indicated a land-locked liarbor somewhat resembling San Francisco Bay, but having no name at- tached. It seems probable that the existence of the bay was known to those engaged in the India trade, wdio ke}jt it a profound secret, and could thus pi-ofit by all its advantages as a harbor of refuge, without j)ermitting it to become a rendey,vous for the pirates who preyed upon their conunerce, or a station ft>i* tlie war ships of hos- tile nations. On the twentieth of January, Viscaino, ha\ing been unsuccessfid in his search for the wrecked galleon, again sailed noithward. He proceeded as far as latitude 42", where he ol)sei'ved a lai'ge white bluff, uj)on which he bestowed the title of "San Sebastian." Dis- couraged by the unfavorable weather, the terrible sufferings of his crew from scurvy an<l the ap})arent loss of the consort, Viscaino turned the prow of the Capitana to the south, and made his way back to Mexico as raj)idly as possible. When the stoiin parted the two vessels off San Francisco Bay, the little fragata, which wjis under the command of Martin de Aguilar, continued the northern journey, encountering another gale in the vicinity of ("ape Mendo- cino, fi'om wdiose fury it escaped l)y taking refuge in some sheltered place on that portion of the coast. What this place of refuge wa.s doe.s not appear, but Humboldt Bay and the Bay of Trinidad seem VOYAGES AND EVENT8 OK THE HEVENTEENTII CKNTI'KY 4'.> to be the only ports in that ivgion capable of nlielteiing a vessel from a severe storm, ai"! one of these must have V)eeii entere<l by the ^rflfa/a / though, if such is the case, it seems strange that a more extended description of it is not given. The subse<|uent m<»\euients of the little craft are thus detailed by Tonpiemada: — When the wind had become less violent tliey continued tlieir joiirnfy <"Uwe alon^ tlie shore, and on the nineteenth of January, the pilot, Antonio Floren, found that they were in the latitude of 43°, where the land formed a cape or point, which wim named "Cape Blanco." From that point the coast beginn to turn to the northwewt, and near it was discovered a rai)id and abundant river, witli iwli trees, willows, brambles, and other trees of Castile and its banks, which they endeavored to enter, but could not from the force of the current. Ensign Martin de Aguilar, the com- mander, and Antonio Flores, the pilot, seeing that they hiid already reachetl a higher latitude than was ordered by the Viceroy in his instructions, that the Vapi- tana did not appear, and that the number of sick whs great, ugreed to return to Acapulco. They never peiformed their agreement, for when the fragata reachei] Acapulco both the commander and 2)ilot, as well as the greater portion of the crew, had fallen victims to the scui'vy and had been consigned to the I)()som of the great unknown ocean. It is un})os.sible to realize the dreadful ravages committed by that horriy)le disease among the explorers of those early times. Every })rolonged voyage suffered the impress of its blighting finger. Deatli took passage in e\'ery vessel sent into unknown \vaters. English mariners seem to have suffered less than did the Spaniards, or, in later times, the Russians. Of the sufferings on Ijoard of Aguilar's fated craft Torcpiemada says: — Nor is the leivst case to be expected from change of place, as the slightest motion is attended with such severe pains that they nmst be very fond of life who would not willingly lay it down on the first appearance of so terrible a distemper. This virulent humor makes such ravages in the body that it is entirely covered with ulcers, and the poor patients are unable to bear the least pressure; even the very • lotlu's laid on them deprive theui of life. Thus they lie groaning and incapable of any relief. For the greatest aasistjince possible to be given them, if I may be allowed the expression, is not to touch them, nor even the bed clothes. These eflects, how- ever melancholy, are not the only ones produced by this ; estilentlal humor. In many, the gums, both of the upper and lower jaws, are pressed both within and without to such a degree, that the teeth can not touch one another, and withal so loose and bare that they shake with the least motion of the head, and some of the patients spit their teeth out with their saliva. Thus they were unable to receive any food but liquid, as gruel, broth, milk of almonds and the like. This gradually brought on so great a weakness that they died while talking to their friends. * * * Some, by way of ease, made loud complaints, others lamented their sins with the deepest contrition, some died talking, some sleeping, some eating, some whilst sitting up in their l)eds. 50 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Siu-h wHie the privatioiiis aiui afflictions einlured by the early explorei's of the eoast of Oregon. A fourtJi geographical (-nignia wan now added to the list of those which pei'plexetl the seekers {'or a Northwest Passage; though, more ])i-o|)erly s[)eaking, this was the first, since knowledge of this voyage was spread ahroad several years Itefoi*^ Maldonado entertained the Council of the Indies with his clevei- roijiaiice a'wmt the Straits of Anian, <>r Lock's letter gave to the world the dubious tale of Juan de Fuca. According to Torcpieniada, :i was "supposed that this river is one leading to a great city which was discovered by the Dutch when they were driven thither l)y storms, and that it is the Straits of Anian through which the shij) [uissed in sailing from the North Sea to the South Sea, and that the city called Quivira (the one which led Coronado such a dance sixt}' years l»efore) is in those paits; and that this highei" latitutle is the region referred t(» in the account wliicii his majesty read, and which induced him to order this expnlido;!.'" There is here a serious discrepancy— an error of as great a magnitude as the one cited as evidence of the mythical character of the alleged voyage of Juan de l^^ica. No great I'iver exist** in latitude 48°, but a short distance U}) the coast is the Ump- ([ua, whic-li, though l)y no means jis great a stream a.s this one vvjw supjntsed to l»e, may he considered of sufficient j)ropoitions to duty as the River of Aguilar. The same may be said of Rogue River, some uiiles below the [)oint indicated. Chie can not h"lp noticing hei'e the foundation of the " River t)f Kiugs" story after- wards concocted hy Petiver. The great I'iver supjxtsed to lead through the continent, an<l the large city some distance uj) the stream, both a])pear here in the (M'iginal. The idea that this wjus the Straits f>f Aniaii, or anything of a similar nature, did not long obtain. A few yeai-s later it wiis conceived that this and the C(»lorad<» rivers were the two ends of a long inland channel, which united in sucli a immner jis to make California an island. This theory found a [dace upon the nuips for a short time, till it was discovered that the Col- Oiv'do led off ti> the northeastward instead of toward the northwest. It wa.x thei, sup|»osed that this was a vast river flowing from un- known regi(»ns in the heart of the continent, such a stream a.^ the (/'(»hnnl)ia wa>< in later years found to be, and nnips thereaftei- bort^ upon tlieni an indication of such a rivei', hearing the name "River VOYAGES AND EVENTS OF THE SEVENTEENTH fENTIin'. 51 of Aguilar," anl varioun* other titles, which, with the reason for he- stowing them, will appear later on in speaking of the journey of the early explorers of the Rocky Mountains. Viscaino had kept in view the chief object of his voyage — the discovery of a suital)le harlior of i-efuge for vessels in tlie Manila trade — and immediately upon liis return urged upon the Viceroy the desirability of esta})lishing supply stations at San Diego and Monterey, the only suitable harbors he had encountered. He reported that diligent incpiiry among the nations had elicited the information that California was extremely fertile and rich in the [nvcious metals. There was one serious objection to so doing, which had great weight with the Viceroy. lie had been instructed in the royal decree to accomplish these things at his own expense, and he was nuich averse to devoting Ins private revenues, which were, no doubt, very con- siderable, to the accom])lishment of public measures. In vain Vis- caino urged, the Viceroy was obdurate, and, at last, the explorer went to 8})ain to lay the mattei- before his sovereign. xVfter several years of attendance at coiu't he succeeded, in 1()<)(), in procuring a royal mandate to the ^'iceroy, directing him to establish a supply station at Monterey. While preparations for doing so were advanc- ing Viscahio died, and the Viceroy seized the opj)ortunity to defeat the projected colony. For a centiuy and one-half thereafter Spain made no further attempt to ex])h)re the coast noith of California. The East India vessels first sighted land on their home voyage in the vicinity of Ca])e Men(h)cino, and then folhtwed the coast south to Mexico; l)Ut north of that the Pacific (.'oast of North America remained a tc7'ra incognita foi' ages. The secret of this a))parent apathy was the unwillingness of the viceroy.- to explore new rt-gions at their own expense. There is a traditior floating about in South- ern Oregon that one of these galleons was driven out of its coui-se an<l put into the l;m])(jua River to repair dam.-igj's. Indian tiadi- tions and the old stumps of trees are iclied upon as corroborative evidence; thought what the original authority is, or in what year the event is said to have occurre<l, the writer has been unaV)le to learn. The story is pn>bably an outgiowth of the attempt of Aguilar tx> enter some river in that ivgion. CHAPTER V. HUDSON'S BAY, CAPE HORN, AND BEHRJNG'S STRAITS. Discovery of Dams' Straits — Henry Hudson^ William liuj/fn, and other Emplorers in the North- Atlantic — Dutch Nainyators Discover the Paasaye around Cope Horn — Burcaneers Swarm into the Pacific hy the New Route — Otondo attempts to Colonize Lower California — The Hudson'' s Bay Company Chartered, in 1009, to Discover the Straits of Anian — Prlnleyes Graiited hy the Charter — The Company Heads off all Efforts at Explmntion — Russians cross Siberia and Explore the Pacifc — Plans of Peter the Great — Discovery of Beh- ringh Straits and Alaska — Voyage of Tchirlkof — Behriny Discovers Mount St. Ellas and Dies on Behrini/s Isle — The Early E%ir Trade of the North Padfc—Benyowshy Takes a Cargo of Ears to Canton and thus Reveals the Magnitiule of the Pacific Ocean — Rus- sian Idea of Alaskan (ieography. s EVKKAL iuiportaut voyages were iiuule ]>y English inarinei's <ni the Athiiitie coast in searching for the Noi-thwest Pjissage, all of whicli hear a close relati(tn to the more direct stej»s taken (»n the Pacific side in the disc(»verv of Oregon. In IjSS, at the time set in Maldonado's romance for his voyage throngh the Straits of Anian, a celebrated English navigator .was actnally ex|>loring the seas abont the seventy-fifth parallel. This was John Davis. After searching in vain for a j)assage westward, he finally discovered Davis' Straits, hut was compelled to return to P^ngiand hefore making a thorough exploration of th«'m, leaving in douht the (piestion of whether through them, or hy some hody of water coiuiecting with them, the Pacific might not he reached. Ahont the same time the great fi-eehooter, Thonnus C^avendish, returned with his vessel laden with tin- plunder of the South Sea, and Davis, dazzled hy the glittering pr(tsj>ect of great wealth t<» Im' gained hy plunch^iing the Sj)anish <omnjerce» Hri)S()\'s BAY, CWK H()K^, AND RKHIMNo's STKAI'I'S. O.'i abandoned liis search for the Northwest Passage and sailed with Caveiidisli u|)(»n his seeoiul ex])edition to the Paciiic, a voyage which ended in signal disjister. In Kios, Ileni'y Hudson, bent upon tlie same errand as Davis, explored the Xoi'th Atlantic coast. lie entered Hudson's Bay and partially examined it; and though he l)est<»wed his name upon the l>ay, a.s well as tlie straits leading to it, he w is hut following the course pursued a century hefoiv by ("oi'tereal. William Baffin was the next n()t<'(l mai'inei- to navigate these seas. In KJIH he sailed north, between America and (Jr«*enland, into Baffin's Bay. Other explorei's followed in the wake of tliese m«»i'e noted ones, and exam- ined the coast cai'efully as high ii.s the seventy-fifth parallel. It was of no use; the Sti'aits of Anian coidd not be found, (xeographei's Itecame satisHnl that if discovere<l at all they would be found lead- ing westward from some arm of Hudson's Bay which had been but l)artially exj)loied. England soon became convulsed l>y civil war Itetween the peo])le and the House of Stuai't, and America waw neg- lected for half a century. Meanwhile, an important discovery wjus ma(h' in an opp(»site dii-ection, one most di>;isrrous to ihe Pacitic connnerce of Spain. While Baffin was jtui'suing his search among the iceViergs and floes of the Arctic, two Dutch navigators, \ an Sch»)Uten and Le- maire, passed south of tiie Straits of Magellan and 'liscovere<l the open sea connecting the Atlantic and Pacific. They rounded Cape Hoi'u, which they thus cliristened — in memt»ry of the place of their nativity, "Holland'* — and entered the South Sea without en< initev- ing the dangers attending a passage tlu'ough the Straits of jM.igellan, or meeting the Spanish sliips of war which guarded the entrance to that narrow j)assageway. Here, now , wa« a r«)ute open to all nation!* ^ — one which Spain could neither monopolize nor defeiul. Spai 'U- tinmdly involved in Euroj)ean wars, was now exposed to attack in her most vital part. From America and the Indies came the revenue with which she now made war ui)on Entrland and France, oi>i)ressed .pp the Netherlands and sustained the terrible In([uisition. Privateers of the three hostile nations swarmed into the South Sea and plun- dered her connnerce. Buccaneers attacked the Spanish possessions in America from both the Atlantic and Paciflc sides. Especially did the Dutch aid in tliis way the desperat«' struggle of the Nether- :)4 HISTORY UK WILLAMKTTK VALI.KY lands for li.(le|)en<K'nre from Spanish rule. The (riilf of California Ixvanie their rallyinir place, their s[>eoial rendt'zvous heini; the Bay of Piehilinuue, wliiih won for them the title of " Piehilintrues," a name both feared and hated l>y the mariners of Spain. From this rt'treat they issued to eommit their ravaires, and often returned with the rich prize of a Manila galleon. The feelde efforts of Spain to dislodije these Uold maraudeis, who wer<' literally drawing the life blood of the nation, were of no avail. Several times she made great preparations to exterminate them, but even if driven out they returned again in greater munbers as soon as the way was open. F^inally, in 1()8.'{, an effoi-t was nnule to plant a e(dony in L(»wer California, which slntuld serve as a basis for keeping the gulf five from pirates, and of rescuing from threatene<l attack the annual galleon. Admiral Don Isdro de (Hondo was at the head of this expedition, which consisted of sohliers, settlers and Jesuit [)rieHts. For three years the effort was sustaine<l in the face of drouth and sterile soil, and then the c(dony was abandoned; the last act being to rescue and convey safely to port the Manila galleon, whose safety was threatened by the dreaded [U'ivateei-s. When the l(»ng fratricidal war in Fhigland was over and the son of the murdered king was set upon the throne, attention was once more directed toward America. The belief that the Straits of Anian could be found only in Hudson's Hay was then a general one, and to aid in its discovery, in l«)ti5>, Charles the II. grante<l almost royal privileges in America to a company of his subjects. Such were the relative importance in those days of the rich com- merce of the Indies and the Arctic wilds of unexplored America. Reports of the valuable fnrs to be obtained from the natives along the coast which were made by the old explorers, and the hope that other and even more valuable articles coidd l>e obtained in trade with the Indians, led to the organization of a company to engage in that profitable business. They applied to the King for a royal charter, which was granted in consideration of their agreement to search for the nuich-desired Straits of Anian. Tin two-fold object — that of the King and that of the company — was expressed in the charter which created "The Company of Adventurers of England Trading into Hudson's Bay." This object, as expressed, was "for the discovery of a new passage into the South Sea. and for the find- HI'DSON S HAY, f-APK MOHN, AND BKItKINOS STltAITS. 00 iiii; <»f some fnule in furs, minerals and otlier considerahle commo- dities." The comjtany was granted the exchisive right of the "trade an<l commerce of all those seas, straits and Imys, rivers, lakes, creeks and sounds, ii; whatsoever latitude they shall be, tliat lie within the entrance of the straits commonly calle<l Hudson's Straits." ( )f this region, which embraced all that vast territory whose water shed is into Ihnlson's Hay, this company was given absolute control to the exclusion t»f all persons whomsoever. It was constituted "for all time hereafter, capable in law, to have, purchase, receive, possess, enjoy and retain lands, rents, privileges, libeilies, jm"isdicti(»n, franchise and heieditaments of what kind, nature or (puility soevei- they be, to them and their successors;" and all persons were forbidden to "visit, hunt, frequent, trade, 'traffic or adventure " therein without permission of the company. The annual rent of this great empire was "two elks and two black beavers," which the King, if he desired to have it paid, must go upon the land and collect foi' himself. The company has few rent receipts to exhibit. This is the organization known in history as the lludson^s Bay Company, a name vivid in the memory of Oregon pioneers. What a sjtlendid thing this charter was to the company, and what an <)bstacle it became in the pathway of England's pro- gress in America, will a[)[)ear as tiiis narrative unfolds. But for the selfish ptdicy of the Hudson's liay Company, Oregon would to-day be a province of (rreat Britain. The company soon learned that their true interests lav, not in finding the Northwest Passage, but in [treventing the discovery of it altogether. They were able to accomplish this and to hold the government and everv one else not connected with the organization in conn>lete ignorance of the region in whi«'h they were doing a Inisiness which assumed gigantic pi'oportions in a few years. Thus it happened tinit no more efforts of conse(iuence were made V)y England to discover the Straits of Anian for a whole century after the granting of this nuignificent charter, the com|»any being able to prevent or bring to grief all e\])e(liti<»ns of this character. Such was the soulless conduct of this corporate nionopolv to the govern- ment to which it owed its very existence. From the time Aguilar's little vessel conveyed her atHictcd crew back to Mexico in KJO.'i, more than a century jiassed before another 5(1 HISTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK V'AliLKY. voyage was attempted. Not a vessel cast its shadow upon the waters of the North Pacific, nor a Caucasian eye ga/e<l upon the mountain peaks that stand like ancient sentinels aloui;^ our coast. Suddenly interest in this region was revived, and initial steps were taken by a power previously supposed to have no interest whatever in the American (juestion. The sudden rise of Russia from obliv- ion to a high rank among the powers of the world, a jwolution wrought by the genius of the enlightened monarch, Petei'the Great, is one of the marvels of history. Gradually he extended his power eastward across the snowy wastes of Siberia until his dominions were washed by the waters of the Pacific beating upon the Penin- sula of Kamtchatka. The fur trade of this \ast solitude became a valuable one, and added to the great revenue of the CV.ar. Hav- ing reached the Pacific he l)ecame eager to extend his p()\ver still further eastward until it touched the western confines of the de- pendencies of England, France and Spain in America. H<>w far that was, or what was the nature of the region coveted, neither he nor any one else had the faintest glimmering of knowledge. It might be a great ocean of valueless water, a sea filled with islands, a continent of ice, or a land of plenty, " flowing with milk an<l honey." No one knew; but this powerful autocrat pi'oposed to find out. His first step was to discover a waterway into the Pacific fi'om tile Arctic Ocean which washed his dominions on the north — just such a passage as the English nuu'iners had searched for in vain, though he expected to reach it by going east instead of to the west. He ordered vessels to be constructed at Ai'changel, on the White Sea, for the purpose of coasting in the Arctic eastward along the shores of Si])ei'ia until an opening was discovered into the Pa- cific. Other vessels were to be constructed on the coast of Kam- tchatka, which wei"e to take an opposite course and endeavor to pass northward into the Arctic. Peter died before his ])lans were executed, and the [)roject was held in abeyance for se\'eral years. The Empress Catherine was a worthy successor of her noble husband, and wlien firndy settled upon the throne she turned her attention to completing the work he had begun. In 172H, in ac- cordance with her instructions, vessels were built on the coast of Kamtchatka, which were dispatched in search of the desired pas- sage between the Arctic Ocean and the Pacific. In command of HUDiSON's BAY, CAFK HOUX, AND BKnUlN<rs STKAITS. 57 the expedition was Vitus Behriiii!;, a Daiiisli navigiitor of skill and experience, in whose charire the former exploration was t(» have been placed hy Peter. Russia was not a maritime nation, and her seamen were in no maimer scientific navigators, hence the selection of this skillful Dane for the conmiand of so important an expedi- tion. Behring sailed on the fourteenth of July, and followed the coast northerly in his little vessel until he found it trending steadily to the westward. From this fact he V)ecame convinced that he had already entered the Arctic and was sailing along the northern coast of Asia; and being unprepared for a long voyage, or the possibility of being compelled to spend the winter in the ice, he returned at once to the port of embarkation. The highest point reached was <?7° IS,' but the longitude is not given. Neither going nor retin-n- ing through the straits did he espy the coast line of America, foggy and cloudy weather obscuring it fi'om view, and consequently he reported upon his return that a gi'eat open sea lay to the eastward of Asia, joining the Pacific Ocean with the Arctic. The next year he endea\'ored to cross this ocean and reach the shore of America by sailing directly eastward. In this attempt he was l)af!led by head winds and was driven by a gale into the Gulf of Okotsk. He abandoned the effort and returned to St. Petersl)urg to report his discoveries. During the few succeeding years a number of smaller expediti(ms were made by Russian subjects; one of these being driven upon the Alaskan coast in \7lV2, when it was discovered that not an oi)en sea but a strait connected the two great oceans. Upon this was bestowed the name of the Danish explorer — the pioneer navigator of the North Pacific. C'athcrine died, and after the conse<pient delay, her successor, tlie Em])ress Anne, fitted out an expedition for the purpose of expl(»ring on a more extendi^d scale than had ])i'eviously l>een done. This consis(;cd of two vessels, Rehring being in connnand of one, and Alexei Tchirikof, a Russian, who had been his lieutenant on the first voyage, of the other. Anne die<l before the expedition was ready to sail, but Kli/.abcth, who succeeded to the throne, did not intei-fere with the ])lans which had been laid, and the two consorts sailed fi-om the Hay of Avatscha <m the fourth of June, 1741. They were soon sepaiated in a gale and were not again united. Tchirikof's vessel, the 67. Pau/, returned on the eighth of October, in a sad i 58 IIISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. plight. She had reached a group of islands in latitude 5()°, where sixteen of the crew, who landed to make a reconnoisance, were slaughtei-ed l»y the Indians. Besides these, twenty-one more suc- cumlted to the lavages of the scurvy before the vessel found her way hack to port. Sad as were the misfortunes that befel the crew of the SL Pau/, they were slight conn)ared with the disasters which crowded upon their comrades on Ixtard the i>/. Petei'. Behriui; steered a south- easterly course for many days, and at hust reached latitude 4<)°, with- out having encounteied land. This is the latitu<le of the Columbia River, but how near the coast of America he approache<l at that point is not recorded. The mysteries of longitude seem to have been beyond the penetration of the exj)lorers of those days. Captain Cook, nearly iifty years later, is the tirst explorer who seems to have understood the necessity of locating an object b)' its longitude as well as its distance from the ecpiator. Hehring then turned his prow to the northetist and continued his voyage until he had ascended to the sixtieth degree, when he discovered land, the first thing to meet his gaze being a giant snow-croMiied peak. This he named "Mount St. Elias," in honor of the saint whose name appeared in the Rus- sian calendar jis patron of the eighteenth of July, the date of the discovery. The .S7. Peter sailed into a passage leading between the mainland and a large island, when liehring discovered that the water wa.s discolored, as though it had been discharged from a large river, the volume indicating the stream to be the water drain of a land of continental proportions. That this was America no one on board doubted. The sul)ordinate officers desired to explore the coast southward, in the direction of the Spanish colonies, I nit Behring, who was in ill health, refused to do so, and started ui)on the return v<\yage. They made but slow progress among the islands lying to the southwest of tlie Peninsula of Alaska, and finally, l»eing driven by a severe stortn far to the southward, the vessel wandered aimlessly about for two months, the sjx)^ of the winds and ocean currents. Horriltle were the sufferings of the crew. Scurvy, in its most ghastly form, preyetl upon them unchecked. Famine and disease went hand in hand. The surgeon's journal says: "The general distress and mortality in(;reased so fast that not only the sick dial, but those who pretended to be healthy, when relieved from their posts, fainted TAPE HORN, UUDSOX'S BAY, AM) BKHKINCl's STKAITS, 5W and fell down dead; of which the scantiness of water, the want of biscuits and brandy, cold, wet, nakedness, veiinin, and teri(»r, wei-e not the least causes." At last these horrors came to an end. On the fifth of N(>vend)er tliev siijhted a small island Iviny between the Aleutian Archipelago and Kamtcluitka, and runniuiii: the vessel close in they all landed, with the purpose of s])endinij; the winter. The island wjts a small, rocky speck on tlie ]>osom of the sea, consisting of a few barren granite peaks thrust up from the water, whose sides were continually Ifiwhed by a lieavy surf and upon which the waves furiously chv^hed when storms swept across the surface of the ocean. Here they lived uj)on the flesh of fiu'-bearing animals which abounded in the water, and upon the fish they were able to catch. Their house was constructed of the tind>ers of their vessel, which was wrecked upon the rocky coast during a gale inunediately after the\' disembarked, and whose broken pieces were washed up by the surf. Their sufferings did not end with their removal to this new abode. Disease had taken too firm a grasp up<m that afflicted crew. Heh- ring died on the eighth of December, and l>efore sjiring thirty of his followers also found a grave on those water- l)ound rocks. The skins of slaughtered animals served them foi' l)oth clothes and bed- ding. Had this island been located at the same latitude in the Atlantic Ocean not one of these enfeel)led men could have siu'vived the rigors of winter. Here the great ocean river, known as the Japan Current, imparts its genial warmth to the islands of the Aleutian Archipelago and fringes the icy peaks and glaciers of Alaska with a coast-line of verdure. Owing to tliis great modify- ing element even floating ice fi'om the frozen Arctic is not seen in Behring's Sea, though on the Atlantic side the ocean is rendered unsafe by floes and icebergs at a much lower latitude. Upon the return of spring the survivoi-s constructed a small vessel from the wreck of the S^. Peter^ and when that long task was finislnHl, em- barked and sailed directly westward, reaching the Bay of Avatscha in August. That bleak island which had been their winter home, and where were the graves of their commander and many of their comrades, they christened "Behring's Isle," and as such it is known to the present day. Twenty years elapsed before another official exploration was made, and half a century passed ere the full account of this fatal \ 60 IIISTOKV OK AVIliLAMKTTK VALLKY. one was puhlislied to tlic world. AccompaMying Hrhriiig on the .SV. Peter was a (Trenuan surgeon iiiid st-icntist named Steller, and his jonrnal, wliicli was not puhlishcd until 1795, long after the Alaskan coast had hcMi thoroughly exjdored by Spanish, Russian, English and American na\igators, is the oidy record })reserved of the adventures and terrihlc sufferings endured by the discoverers of ^Vlaska. The general features of the voyage, however, were well known in Europe soon after its fatal termination. The skins which the survivoi's wore when they retui-ned to A\atscha were found to be exceedingly valuable — prol)ably seal and sea-otter— and several private expeditions were fitted out by Russian traders, to visit the islands lying to the eastward, in search of fnrs. In this way the fur trade of the Pacific began, and before the government was pre- pared for another ex[)edition this trade had i-eached considerable projiortions. (ireeidiow thus describes the infancy of this great industry: — The trade thus commenced was, for a time, carried on by individual adventurers, each of whom was alternately a seaman, a hunter, and a merchant; at length, however, some capitalists in Sil)eria employed their funds in the pursuit, and expe- ditions to the islands were, in consequence, made on a more extensive scale, and with greater rej?ularity and efticiency. Trading stations were established at partic- ular points, wliere the furs were collected by persons left for that object ; and vessels were sent, at stated periods, from the ports of Asiatic Russia, t« carry the articles required for the use of the agent-s and hunters, or for barter with the natives, and to bring away the skins collected. The vessels employed in this commerce were, in all respects, wretched and inse- cure, the planks being merely attnched together, without iron, by leathern thongs ; and, as no instruments were used by the traders for determining latitudes and lon- gitudes at sea, their ideas of the relative positions of the places which they visited were vague and incorrect. Their navigation was, indeed, performed in the most simple and unscientifii! manner possible. A vessel sailing from the liay of Avatscha, or from Cape Lopatka, the southern extremity of Kamtchatka, could not have gone far ea.stward, without falling in with one of the Aleutian islands, which would serve lus a mark for her course to another; and thus she might go on from point to point throughout the whole chain. In like manner she would return to Asia, and if her course and rate of sailing were observed with tolerable care, there could seldom be any uncertainty as to wJiether slie were north or south of the line of the islands. Many vessels were, nevertheless, annually lost, in consequence of this want of knowledge of the coast, and want of means to ascertain positions at sea ; and a large number of those engaged in the trade, moreover, fell victims to cold, starvation and scurvy, and to the enmity of the bold natives of the islands. Even EH late as 18(K», it was (ralculated that one-third of these vessels were lost in each year. The history of the Russian trade and establishments in the North Pacific, is a series of details of dreadful disasters and sufTerings ; and, whatever opinion may be entertained a.i to the humanity of the adventurers, or the morality of their pro- f'Al'K IIOHN, HUDSON S HAY, AND HKllIMN(i S STRAITS. <n cpedlnga, the couraj^c iind pfrHeveriiiice displayi'd hy tlifiii, in Htru^rgliii^ af^ainst Hueh appalling dittlculties, rnUHt command uiiivei-sal admiration. The furs collected by thf«t' mcanH, at Avatneha and ()chot>»k, the i)rincipal fur- trading pointH, were carrierl to Irkutsk, the capital of Kastern Silieria. wliencc Home of them were taken to P^urope; the greater portion were, however, .sent to Kiakta, a small town just within the Russian frontier, close to the Cliincse town of Maimat- chin, through which places all the eonuuerce l)etween these two empires passed, agreeably to a treaty concluded at Kiakta in 172K. In return for the furs, whicli brought higlier prices in China tliaii anywhere else, teas, tol)acco, rice, porcelain, and silk and cotton goods, were iiroughl to Irkutsk, where all the most valuable of these articles were sent to Europe. These transportations were effected by land, except in some places where the rivers were used as the channel of conveyance, no commercial exportation having been made from Kastern Russia by sea before 177!t; and wb.en the immense distances between some of the points above mentioned are considered (Irkutsk to Pekin, 1,8(K) miles; to Hay of Avatscha, S.+'iO nnles; to St. Petersburg, 3,7(>0 ndles), it beconn s evident that none but olijects of great value, in comparison with their bulk, at the ])lace of their <'onHumption. could have been tluis transported with proHt to those engaged in the tra<le, and that a large portion of tlie price paid by the consumer must liavi' lieen al)sorl)t'd l)y the expense of trans- portation. A skin was, in tact, worth at Kiakta three times as much as it cost at Oehotsk. For veai's the furs were cointncd to l^ckin juid St. I'eter.s1»tirir ovei'lantl, as descrllK'd above, China l>eing then, as now, the <;eneral fur market of the woi'hl. Not until 1771 was a earj^o taken directly by sea to Canton, and not until then was it known that the Bay of Avatseha and the Chine.se Sea were eonnected by water. Foi" the first time was realized the inunense magnitude of the Paeific; that the same waters which beat U[)on Beliring's Isle washed the shores of the thousand islands of the South Sea, gazed up at the frowning rocks of Cape ll<»rn, and bore the Spanish galleons on their long voyage from Acapulco to the Indies. This innovation was not by any means the result of Russian enterprise. A few of the patriotic defenders of Poland, who had been e.xiled to Siberia by the Russian Czar, made their e.scape in a small vessel from a port on the south- west coast of Kanitchatka, under the leadership of a Hungarian exile, Count Maurice de Henyowsky. After nuich aindess w.inder- ing among the Aleutian Islands, where they procured from the natives a large (juantity of furs, they sailed southward and finally reached Canton, where their cargo found a good market. This was the first vessel fr(»m the Russian Possessions of the Pacific to enter the harbor of a foreign nation, and the spreading of the information that rich fin- regions at the north were accessible to Canton by sea was one of the gr<'atest factors in the sultsecpient rapid growth of the fur trade. H2 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTK VALLEY. The inc'ivasiiit; value of the fur business led the Russian Govern- ment to (lispatcji other exploring expeditions in 17<»6and 17()9. 'riicy found the coast, wherever they reached the mainland at all, fringed with islands and the sea through which they passed dotted with them. Tiiat the land on the east side of Behring's Strait« was of considerable [»roportions was evident. This they called "Alaska," (»r "Aliuska,'' and sup[)osed it to be a large island. In 1774 a map was picpared, representing their ideas of the geography of llussian America. I'pon this the coast of America was represented as run- ning nortliwesterly from California to the seventieth degi'ee ot lati- tu(U', which was its extreme northern and western limit. Ikying lu'tween America and i\sia, in that latitude, was a vast sea of islands, of which the largest was Alaska, with only the channel of Behring's Straits separating it from the coast of Asia. With this map was published an account of the last two voyages, the book being enti- tled " Dcsci'iption of the Newly Discovered Islands in the Sea be- tween Asia and America." Such was the Russian idea of a region in which four official explorations had lieen made, and private enter- prise had engaged in the fur trade for thirty years. It renniined for an Englishman, the celebrated Captain Cook, only a few years later, to i-eveal t(» them their error. He commanded the first English vessel to visit the North Pacific, and in (me voyage straightened out the geographical tangle the Russians had made in Alaska, and reformed the ideas the Spaniards entertained about the coast they had several times explored fiu-ther to the south. Such wa.s the difference between scientific navigation and haphazard sailing. CHAPTER VI. FROM CAPTAIN CARVKH TO CAPTArX COOK. TheJeHwitu (Julonize Lower California -The Franrixcautt Kiiter Califor- nia -Discovery of San Francisco Bay — Early Frtnch Explorers - The, River of the West — Verendrye Explores the Rocky Mountains — France Sells Louisiana to Sj>a/n and Ijooxes Canada to England by Conquest — Journey of Captain Career — He c<dls the River of the West "■Oreyon" — Argument upon the Origin <f the Word "Ore- gon^"'— ^The Geiierally Accepted Sjxmish Theory does not Staml the Light of IncHtigation — The lliidson-s Hay Conipany^s Ptdicy of Keeping the World Ignorant of the Geography of the Country Occu- pied by Them — Samuel Jlearne Discovers Great Slace Lake, Cop- permine Ricet and the Arctic Ocam — Russia''s Activity in Alaska Lncites Spain to Renew her Explorations — Voyage of Perez ami Martinez — Perez enters Port San Lorenzo, or Noothi Sound — Mar- tinez Claims to have Observed the Straits of Fuca — Voyage of Ileceta and Bodega y Quadra Benin's Wonderful Chart — Discovery of Trinidcul Bay-lsla de Dtdorex, or Destruction Islund — Heceta At- tempts to Enter the Columbia- SiMinish and English Methods of Ex- ploi'ation ( 'ompared Bodega and Maurelle Discover Mount San Jacinto, or Edgecumb- -They iMnd a)id Take Possession for the King of Spain — They Reach Latitude 58" aiul Return — England, in Alarm at the Progress Made by Spain and Russia, Semis Captain Cook to the Pacific — His Particular Instructions — Cook Names the Sand- wich Islands, Cape F'lattery and Nootka Sound, and Searches for the Straits of F'uca, River <f Kings and Straits of Anian — He Passes Through Behriiufs Straits and Around the Northwestern Ex- tremity of Alaska Winters in ihe Sajidwi^'h Islands and is Kill&l by the Natives— The Expedition Again Visits the Arctic, Takes a Cargo of E'urs to Canton and Returns to Englaml — The Record of the Voyage Pigeonholed Until the War is Over — Enterprise of John 84 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. Ledijanl — Arteaga, Bodega and Maurelle Follow Cook's Route Up the Count. DURIX(t all the loiiir absence f»f Spain from tlie North Pacific she was not nei^lectini^ lier interests still fnrther to the south. With the al)an(l()nnient of ()ton<h)'s colony in Lower C'alifornin in 1<>S<), a council of chief authorities in Mexico Jecich'd that tin* re- duction of California by means of official colonies and expeditions was im])racticablc. A few years later the Society of Jesus, whose zealous missionaries had long since carried the cross into the remote fnmtiers (tf Mexico, silicited the privilege of planting a colony and founding missions in Lower C'alifornia; and tliough this was just the object the government had sought so long to accomplish, it took ten years to obtain the royal warrant, so jealous was the throne of the growing ])ower of the Jesuits. In KiOT tlie first mis- sion was founded at Loretto, and in 17(j7, when tlie Society of Jesus was deprived of all ita property in the Spanish d(»minions and its mend)ers thrown into prison upon the order of Charles LIL, there existed in Lower California sixteen thriving missions and thirty-six villages. This rich inheritance was bestowed upon tlie Dominicans, while at the same time the Franciscans were granted full and exclusive authority to found missions in Alta California and take possession in the name of the Spanish crown. The first missioji in Alta Califoi-iiia was founde<l !)y Father Junipero Serra at San Diego, July Kl, I7()t>, which was followed by that of San C/arU»s, at Monterey, August 8, 1770; San Antonii) <le Padua, July 14, 1771 ; San Gabriel, near Los Angeles, Se[)teni- berH, 1771; San Luis <)l)ispo, in September, 1772; Dolores, at San Francisco, ()ctol)er 1<>, 1770; and others at later dates, to the total number of twenty-two. The missions became so numerous and })ovverful that the Mexican government })egan in 1)S'J4 a series of h(>stile acts whicli ended in 1845 in their com[)lete secularization, jtist one year before the country was coiKpiered by the I'niteci States. It was in 17()1>, while GasjKiv de Portala, at the head of a |tarty from San Diego, was searching foi- the Harbor of Monterey, that the Bay of San Francisco was discoxered and named, (hi the thirtieth of ()ctol)er they came u])on a l)ay which "they at once FROM CAPTAIN CAEVER TO CAPTAIN COOK. 65 recognized," says Father Crespi, the historian who accompanied them. There exists now no record of any prior <liscovery of the givat harl)or at San Francisco, except the Manihi chart [)revioiisly referred to, and it certainly seems strange that they vvouhl spend nearly four months searching for such an inferior port as Monterey at which to found a mission and harbor of refuge, when such a glorious one existed only a few miles further north. They now re- membered that Father Junipero Serra liad been grieved because the Visitadore (ieneral had neglec:ted St. Francis, the j)atron saint of the order, in selecting names for their future missions, and tlnit he had said, " If St. Francis wants a mission, let him sliow y<m a good port and we will put one there." Tliey believe<l that their patron had purposely led them to this harbor, and they named it "San Francisco," in his honor. It was first entered by a vessel in June, 1775, when tlie San Carlos sailed through the (rohien Gate and cast anchor I )ef()re the site upon which tlie piicblo (town) of Yerba Buena (now San Francisco) was afterward built. Having seen the Spaniai'ds take possession of California, it is necessary to consider the relative elaims of the contending nations in North America, in order to fully luiderstand tlie various acts of each, which led to the disccjvery and settlement of Oregon. To do this re([uires a return to the seventeenth century. The Treaty of Uyswick was concluded in 1(»U5, in which wjis a provision defining the boundaries of the colonial possessions of tlu' various rival nations in America. This was definite and positive; l)Ut, owing to the crude ideas of American geogra[)hy which pre- vailed at that time, was imperfect in many respects. Florida, Jis the Spanish possessions north of Mexico were called, wjis bordered on the north l>y the Carolinas, but further west the boundaries were (juite indefinite, conflicting with the Louisiana of the Frencli. France claimed as Louisiana all north of the month of the Missis- sippi and west of the Alleghanies, the west<'rii boundary l)eing in- definite because no one knew how far toward tlie (>cci<1ent the con- tinent exti'uded. She also claimed the region of the St, I^awrence and the cliain of great lakes under the general title of (-anada, 'oiniuiT and inter* pn J' ing an> vision either expressed or understood. The Hudson's Bay country was also i'lainu'd l»y France, though not with much persistence, and 66 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. it was lit that time actually in the possession of England, in the person of the Hudson's Hay Company. The English colonies were east of the Alleghanies, from Main to Georgia. In 17i;5 Erance relinquished tt» England lier claim upon the Iluilson's Bay region, and turne<l her attention to streiiijdiheninir her position in Canada an<i Louisiana. During the latter part of the seventeenth century and the first half of the eigliteenth. French explorers and .Ii'suit missionaries traversed the Mississipj i N'alley, established a cliain t>f stations lie- tween Canada and Louisiana, amonu' them the citv of St. Louis, and even penetrated th" unknown wilderness lying between the headwatei's of the Mississipju and the "Shining Mountains," a.s they first called the lioi-ky Mountains, whose snowy sides and lofty spires of rock reficited the bright rays of the sun hundreds of miles to the westward. The most noted of these French pioneers were La Salle, Pere Marquette, Haron La Ilontan. Chevalier La Wrendrye and his sons, Father Hennepin, Dupratz and Charlevoi.x. Nearly all of tJiese wrote accounts (»f their travels, ga\e descriptions •A the country and the native tribes, and from their own observa- tions and the information gleaned from the Indians made maps of that region, embracing a little which they knew and a great deal whicli hey guessed at. Thesi^ nnips, to say the least, are very queer. One of them, drawn in ITU* to show the results of a west- ern journey accomplished by La Hontan, is especially odd. It shows a great river (called the " Long River"), up which he |)assed, as entering the Mississippi in the region of Dubuque, Iowa. This was, l»eyond doid)t, the Missouri, though that stream is also i'e|)re- sented in its pro))er place whei'e it unites with the "Father of Waters," and is made to extend almost due west to the njountains. Passing across from the headwaters of the Mississip[)i and coming upon the Missouri so far to the noith, he natinaliy sup{>osed it to be another stream. I'p this he followed, af)j>arently branching (tfF to ascend the Platte. He descrilies thf upper f)art of the stream as a series of lakes and swamps. Some of Imn descriptions anfl the features of his map are very peeidiai', so much so that historians have l»een inclined t«» doubt the extent of his journey. There ih one featinv, how»'vei-, which tells in lii"< favor. The nuip shows, at some distaiure to the southwest of the point iudioHt«il a*i the west- FROM CAPTAIN CARVER TO CAPTAIN < OOK. ern limit of his wanderings, a large lake, which the Indians told him contained bitter water. This was undoubtedly Great Salt Lake, the one which years before the Indians of Mexico hud en- deavored to describe to the Spanish explorers. The lakes indicated {18 existing along the river beyond the point where rhe journey ended were probably so marked l)ecause he misunderstood the In- dians when tliey spoke of the numy large lakes existing in the region to the westward. One feature is \ery prominent in the reports of nearly all these early French explorers — the fact that beyond the "Shining Moun- tains" was a large river flowing westward to the " drreat Water," in the latitvide of the headwater^ of the Mississippi. This tlu'y learned from the Indians with whom thev came in contact. ThoU'di, with the exception of the Verendryes and their successors in com- mand along the Saskatchewan, probably none of them went further west than the Red River of tlie North; still the Indians of that region, in the years of peaceful intercourse or bloody hostilities uith the tribes beyond the mountains, imist have become suHicientiy familiar witii the geography of the ccmntry lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific to know of the existence of such a large stream lus the ('ohmibia. When the trappers a])peared among the Cheyennes, Crows, lilackfeet. Pawnees, Sioux, and other tribes. It century, they found them tx) ' pn V <|uite an intimate knowledge of the topography of the coinitry west of the mountains occupied by the Shosliones, Bannocks, Flathea<ls and Ne/ I'en'cs, and there is no reason to suppose that a luuidred years earlier their knowledge wa.s n«)t nearly as great. The asser- ti<ni that a great river exist(^d beyond the mountains was not like tliose tales of the " City of Quivira " and the "Land of Cibola," which led the Sjianianls to take sucli long joui'ueys int(» the desert*^ <•}■ Mexico and Arizona two centuries liefore. Coming from differ- ent tribes, through soun-es that were recognized as Jteing totally distinct, it was acce])ted as a geographical fact that sucji a river existnl, and a stream of that nature was indicated on the inapH o f the period. Vtearing the various titles of " River of the West," " River Thegayo," " Ri<» de los Reyes" (the mythical stream of Admiral Font*''), and "Rio de Aguilar" (the one whose mouth Aguilar claimofl to have discovered in 1(i08), The most definite 68 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. puhlislu'il account of this givat stream was giveu by Lepage Dupratz, a French traveler c»f note, who received it from a Yazoo Indian. -It was to the effect that this Indian ascended the Missouri north- '.vesterly to its head, and going still further west came upon another large river Howing to the westward. He j)assed down the stream until he was com[)elled to halt Itecause of a war existing between the natives living ah)ng its banks and a tribe further west. He ]>artici|)ated in the hostilities, during which his friends captured a squaw of t.ln' western tribe, and from her he learned that the river Howed many miles until it emptied int«t a great water where ships had been seen, on which were men with beards and white faces. The geographical statements are so accurate that there is no room to doubt the knowle^lge uf the Yazoo savage of the existence of the Columbia River; but his st;i,tement about ships and white men is historii-ally imj)ossible, suice no vessel ha^l ever visited the mouth of the Columbia, oi- even been so far north as that, unless it be admitted that Sir Francis Drake i-eached latitude 4S" and wa*« near enough to the ct>a.»!t to have the faces and l>eards of his men recognized; Imt that was a century and a half before, and if his visit was known to the Indians at all it wouhl probably be in the tornx of a legend about a great white bir<l that swam in the water, or the canoe of the (Tivat Spirit. That [>ortion of the story was prolialtly a creation of the hulian, or an amj)litication of the tale, made l>y Dupratz himself. De 1/lsh', ge»»grapher of the Academy of Sciem-e, Pai'is, wrt>te March I'l, 171<>: "They tell me that among the Scioux «»f the Mississippi there are always Frenchmen trading; that the coui-se of the Mississippi is from north to west, an<l fi-«»m west to south |evi- ih'Utly the Mississijtpi is here «'onf<»unded with the Missouri |, from that it is known that towards the source there is in the highlands a river that leads to the western (x-ean." De li'Isle warndy urged the goveriunent tn explore the far West, in search of this river and the " Western Ocean" into which it flowed. an<l was seconded in his eff(»rts by a learned piiest named liode. 'I'emporary posts had bej'ii established many year^ before in various pai'ts of Minnesota. Du I.Mth iMiilt (tiie near the head of Lake Superior, in l(»7s; Per- rot founde<l aiiotln-r bel<»w I^ake IN-pin, in h»s;{ ; a stockade wjis erected above Lake IVjtiu on Prairie Island, in 1UU."», and Le Seur KHOM CAPTAIN CAKVKK To CAPTAIV ('(»OK. (il> liiid a post ill 1 700 oil rlir liliic Kartli, iK-ur tlic site of Mankjito. The iinportniiitics of De I/lslt- and Prrc liodt* caused the govern- iiieiit to Ix'tiiii .-III eriertxetic policy of \\ Csterii ex])loratioii and occu- pation in I 7 I 7, coinniencinir with tlie re-estaUlishment of the fort of Dii Luth and another further west anioiiijf the Sioux. Other posts foHowed in rapid suci*ession. In 17'_*s, Seur de la Verendrye, wlio was in coniniand <tf tliesr' advanced p(»sts, received such definite information of the "Shininu' Mountains" from the Indiniis. and of the (;reat river lieyond them wliich tlowt d towards the western sea, that he decided to make a systematic ex])loration of those unknown regions. Misapplication for authority wa> favoraldy considered hy Charles de lieauliju'iiois, (Tovernor-(iener;il of ("anada, and orders were given for the Htting out of an ex[)e<lition. In 17H1 two sons of the Chevalier Vereiidrve left Montreal with a detachment of fifty men, their father n(»t joining them until two years later. They reached Hainey Lake in the fall, and jit the foot of tlie lake huilt Fort St. Pierre, named in honor of their father, whose Uaptisinal name was Pierre. Xext year they estaMished Fort St. Charles, named in honor of the (loverii)r-(Teneral, on the southwestern shore of the Lake of the VN'oods. Further on they Imilt a post on the AssiniUoine, five leagues from Lake Winnipeg, and Fort Maurepas, on Winnipeg Uiver. In .Line, ]''M\, a [)arty of twenty-six, among whom was the younger son of the Chevalier, were massacred hy th<' Sioux Lidians while encamj)ed on a small island in the Lake of the Woods. In Ocloher, 17MH, the N'eren- dryes luiilt Fort La Heine, further west on the Assinilioine, which l»ecame their base of ojierations. In 1 74"J the two sons of the Chevalier left Fort lia Heine with a small party for the purjtose of fully expl(»ring the "Shining Mountains." They followed up Mouse Hiver in a s(»utherly direction to the country of the Alandans (called by them " Moiitanes" ), crossed the Missouri a little helow the site of Fort lierthold, and ascended the stream to the canyon l>elow Helena, making a portage aiNuind the (ireat Falls, which they described in their rejiort, differing in no essential p;irticular from the descri|)tion gixcn hy Lewis and Clarke sixty-two yejirs later. At this point, now known as the "(iatewayof the .Moun- taiiw," they ascended the summit of the range on tlie I'Jth day of January, 174H, not far from Hear Tooth Peak, of which they speak HISTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLEY. jis a tusk-sha[)e(l niuuntain. They then passed iij) Deep Creek (Smith River), erossed tlie luountaiiis to tht' headwaters of the Musselshell, and thence across to the Yellowstone at thf mouth of Pryor River. They foHowed up this stream t<» the Stinkintr Water, and on over the mountains to Wind River. Ilci-c their j)roirress was arrested l>v a fierce war ras.rinir between the Snakes and Sans Arc branch of the Sioux; but they were told by the friendly Snakes of the h>cation t»f T(merue and (rreen Rivei"s. Thev then returned to tlie Upper Missouri, and raised a moininient of stone near the mouth of tile Jefferson— in what they called the " IVtite ("ei'ise" (Clioke Cherry country) — as a witness that they took ])ossession of the country in the name of the Kiui; of France. This they chi'is- tened " BeauhaiMiois," and beneatli it deposited a leaden plate bear- inij the French coat-of-arms. Tiiis ceremony of dedication was j)er- formed May l'.», 1744. They tln'n resumed the liomeward journey. North of the Assiniboine they explored the Saskatchewan -called by them "Posk<»iac" — as far as the forks, and built two foi-ts, one near Lake Dauphin (Swan Lake) and the other on the " River (\^s Biches." Tliey ivached the Lake of the Woods on the iM of July, and I'eported the northei-n I'oute by tlie Saskatchewan as preferabh' to the Missouri, l»ecause of the altsence of daui^er of meetiniz; Span- iards, whom tliey feared mi»?ht be encountere<l further south. Tliey would not have felt so much solicituch' on the subject if they had been aware that the Jesuit ndssions in the extrenie southern portion of the [»eninsuhi of liower California were the farthest north of the Spanish colonies of the Pacific Coast. Before startiuii' upon their two years' journey they had l>een in- formed by the Indians that the " Shininii' Mountains" were full of gold. AVhen they readied the mountains they were disapj»«»inted to find that it was not gold, l»ut barren rock and snow, which reH;'cted the rays of the sun so l)rightly, and they changed their name to " Stony, or Rocky, Mountains." The fuilhest west the inf<»rmation gained by the Verendrye l)i'othei*s extends is to the Flathead Indians, of whom they speak, living just west of the main chain of the Rockies and within the limits of Oregon, as that tei-ritory existed when it was in dispute ))etween tlie United States and (In'at Britain, but now in the western extremity of Montana. They encountered a band of Flatheads. who told them of their countrv west of the t-'KOM CAPTAIN CAKVEK To <APTAIN CnoK. 1 iiKiuutains, juul of tlu* jfirat lake from wliitli a river ran. This lake, they iiiidi'rstood the Indians to say, was the source (tf a tribu- tary of the Missouri, hut the cause of their error is evident, tis Sun River flows from the mountains in that direction. They were also told ()f the great river runniui; westwaid to the ocean, hut were not ahle to cr()ss the divide t(» e\'[)lore it. The river to which the Indians referred was prohahly the stivam tii-st reached Uy Lewis and Clarke when tlh-y crossed the main divide, and whii-h they named " Clarke's River." The stream is now known at vari(»us points along its coiu'se as "Deer Lodge," " Ilellgate," " Hitter- Root," "Missoula," "ClarkeV Fork," and " Pend (!'< )reille," though a commeiidahle Hdelity to histoi'y, a!id a proper regard for the honor of one of our greatest exploivis, demands that the use of every name hut that of "C'larke's River" to he at once al»andon«*tl. The Chevalier \'erendrye was reli»'v«Hl of his command (»f the frontier soon after this e.\|)e<lition. hut was restored a few years later l»y (lalissonere, the suc<'<'s^or of Heauharnois. lie died Dtn-emher <■>, 1 74'.», while plaiming a tour up the Saskatchewan. Jlis son wa.s dej)osed by Jon(piierre, the next (Tovernor-(Teneral, who dis])atched tw<i expeditions in search of rhe Pacific. One of these was com- manded hy St. Pierre, and was to ascend the Saskatchewan, while the other, headecl l»y Marin, was to go up the Missouri. St. Pierre excited the hostility of the Kinsteneanx Indians, who attempted to kill him; and though they failed in this they succeeded in hurning Fort La Reine. lie sent Lieutenant Hoiichet de Neville to establish a po.st at the head of the Saskatchewan. This effort proved a failure because of sickness, but in 17.").'^ some of the men established Fort .Ion([uie]-re in the Rocky Mountains. In 1 7."»4 St. Pierre wjis relieved liy De la Crone, and the following yeai- fell in the battle before Fort St. (reorge. The pi'o]»ost^l expeijition of Marin up the Mis- .souri wjis a «'om])lete failure. The ex))lorations of these French travelers ended with the war between England and France, which wa.s |»articipated in l>y their respective colonies in America, and which is known on this side of the Atlantic as the " French and Indian War." As that struggle drew toward its close, and France realiz»*<l that her jiossessions in America were about to fall into the grasj) of her immemorial enemy, she secretly conveyed to Spain her province of Louisiana. When 72 HISTORY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLEV. the giillaut Wolfe died u])on the Phlin^s of Ahmhjiiii in tlie very moment of triumpli, one of tlie prizen to he gjiined )>y this crown- ing victory of the war l\a«l ahvady j)assed into tlie keeping of an- othei'. Louisana belonged to Spain. The treaty of Paris, in \l(u'>, conveyed Canada to (Ireat Britain, and thns France was shorn of all her possessions in America. All these frontiei- posts were aban- doned, and the Ro(!ky Monntains again became the undisputed home of the aborigine. AVe now approach the memorable journey of the none too vera- cious Captain Carver, the man wlio stands sjutnsor for the word "Oivgon." This luis led, by reason of the sujterHciality <»f many historical writers, to the bestowing upon him <»f all the credit of nniking known to the world the existence of the Cohnnbia River, when the fact is that it was known long before his d«tubtful journey, and his account of it, so far from being written ui)on original infor- imition, Wits but the re-publication of facts made known l)y the French explorers above mentioned, many years bef<tre. Jonathan C'arvei" wjis a native of Connecticut, and served with gallantry as a captain of the English colonial army in the war with France, wliich was terminated by the Treaty of Paris in 17<i;i. I ■ then conceivefl the idea of exploring the westei*!! portion of England's neM' posses- sions. In 17()(i he left Boston, and going by the way of Detroit and Foit Michilimacinac, reached the headwaters of the Mississippi. Thus far historians admit that he traveletl, probably to the Lake Park region of ^linnesota, where rise streams flowing into the Mis- sissippi, the Missoiu'i and the lied River of the North. Carver's claim to extt'Usive traveling west of tlie headwaters of the Missis- sip])i, covering a period of five months, is a very doubtful one; since his descriptions of the names, manners and customs of the Inilian tril)es of that region are but the translations into English of the works of the earlier French exjdorers. His oltject, jus stated in the introduction to his book was, "after gaining a knowledge of the nuiiniei"s, customs, languages, soil and natural protlucti()ns of the different nations that inhabit the liack of the Mississi])])i, t<) jtscer- tain the breadth of the vast continent which extends fi-om the At- lantic to the Pacific Ocean, in its })roadest pai"t, l)etween the forty- third and forty -sixth degrees of north latitude, //ad / been able to accomplish this, I intended to have proposed to the government to KROM CAPTAIN rAUVER TO CAI'TAIN < <»OK. (3 establish a ))()st in some of those parts, al»out the Straits of Aiiian, whieli, haviiiir been (liseovere<i l>y Sii- Fraiu-is Drake, of course l»e- loii<^ to the English." The caittjiin ex])«>ses hi^ want of fitness as a geogi'a])her or historian liy assertinir that Drake discovered the Straits of Anian. The circumstances of I)rake's voyaL'e were more widely known than those of any other mivisfator, and in neithei" of the two accounts j»ul»lished was there a stat<'ment that the gi-eat rol»l»er had discovered those mythical straits, <»i- any other ])assaj?e leadinir inland from the Pacific. Carver did not seem to consider his adventures or discoviM'ies worthy of j»ul»lication until twenty years later, at a time when unusual inter»'sl was felt in Kni^land in the <liscovery (»f the Northwest Passaixe, to tind which the celebrated Captain C(»ok had just been dispatched on a voya^re of exploration to the North Pacific. Cai'ver was at that time living' in London in much financial distress, and his friends advised him to take ad\an- tage of the public int»'rest to |)ublish a book, lie consetpiently wrote one, evidently compile(l in a lari^e measure from the nari'atives Itefore alludeii to, lari^e j)ortions of them beiuii' transljited literally int() Kniflish. lie died in 17st» in extreme penury. The only interest this work or its aiithoi- can have to modern historians, is the appearance therein of the word "Oregon." the first use of that term which has anywheiv been discovered. It appears in the fol- lowing connecticm : From these mitivt'H, tofjetlier with my own observations, I Ikup lcariu'(i tliut tho four most i-apital rivers on tlie contineiit of Xortli Americii, viz.:— tlii' St. Lawrence, tlie Mississippi, tlie Uiver Koiirbon (Red Itiverof tlie Nortlil, and tlie Oregon, or IJiver of the West^-liave tlu'ir sources in tlie same neinlil)orlii)od. Tlie waters of the tliree former are witliiii tliirty miles of eaeli other: [this is practically correct, and this point, somewhere in Westi rn Minni-sota, is prohal)ly the limit of his west- ward journey,] the latter, however, is rather further west. This sliows that these parts are the highest in North America; and it is an instance not to he paralleled in the otlier three-quarters of the world, that four rivers of such ma^rnitude shouhl take their rise together, and each, after running separate courses, discharge their waters into different oceans, at the distance of two thousand miles from their sources, for in their passage from this spot to the Hay of St. Lawrence, east, to the Bay of Mexico, south, to Hudson's Bay, north, anit to the Bay at the Straits of Anian, west, each of these traverse ui)wards of two thousand miles. In this statement Carver does not claim to have visited the head- waters of the River Oregon, or even to know their exact location. He expressly observes that he derived his informatioii chiefly "from 74 HlSTOUy OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. these natives," and it is possil>le that even iToin them it reached him thr(»u;i;h tiie inediiim of his Freneh predecessors. \\'henee Carver (h*rived his authority for calliuir the Jliver of the West "()re<j;on" has l)een a matter of nmeli disc-ussiou. Though it is now i^enerailv aihuitted that the word ori<;inat«'<l with Carver iiimself, or was supposed l)y him to be the name of the stream from some half-uiuhn-stood woi-ds uttered hy the Indians in refei-rini^ to it; yet there are many who are not content unless they can l)nild up some theory founded upon a similarity of sound, and plausil)le only t(t those who are iirnorant of the details of the earl\ explorations in the Pacific. Of these the one most <fenerally accepted in ( )rei^on is the followiui; from the |>en of Archbishop Hlauchet, speaking (tf himself in the third jterson: — Jonuthan ('arvi-r, an EiiKli**!! captain in tile wars l)y wliicli Canada came into tin' poHHt'Hsion otMircat IJritaiii, al'ti'itlie peace, left Boston, June (J, ITtiti, crossed tlie <'ontinent to tlic l'acit1<', and returned October, ITtiK. In relation to liis travels, which were puMisherl in 1774, and reiiuhlislied in 177S, he is the first wlio nialtes use of the woni "Oregon" Tlie orijj;in of that word has never liecn discovered in the country. 'I'iie tirst Catholic missionaries — Kathcr Deniers, now Uisliop of Van- couver Island, and Father lilanchct, now Hisliop of (Jregon City— arrived in Oregon in 1838. They traveled tliroufili it for many years, from south to north, from west to east, visiting and teaching the numerous tril)es of Oregon, Wasliington Territor.y and British possessions. But in all their various excm-sions among the Indians the.v never succeeded in finding the origin of tlie word " Oregon." Now it appears that what c<)uld not lie found in Oregon lias been iliscovercd hy Ar(rhl)isliop Blan- chet in Bolivia, when he visited that country, (Miile ami Peru In IHV) and lH-">7. Tlie word "Oregon," in his opinion, most undoul)tedl,v luw its root in the Spanish word o/v_/rt (ear), and came from tlie <|ualifying word orcjou (Itigeari. For it is probable that the Spaniards, who first discovered and visited the country, when the.v saw tin Indians with liig ears, enlarged liy the load of ornaments, were natur- ally inclined to call them orrjon (big ears). That nickname, tirst given to the In- dians, l)ecanie also the name of the country. This exjilains how Captain ("arver got it and Hist made use of it. But the travelers, perhaps Carver himself, not knowing the Spanisli language, nor tlie peculiar pronunciation of the J in .Spanish, for facility sake would have written It and pronounced it Oriijoii, instead of Orvjon, in changing .) to g. Such, in all probability, must lie the origin of tlie word " Ore- gon." It cornea from the Si)anisli word Orc.jnn. This is cei'taiidy a scientific explanation, and were it oidy sus- tained hy facts would he a satisfjictory one; it will not, however, stand for ii moment the liijht of investigation. At the time (Carver nnide liis journey no Spanish exjilorer had set foot in Oregon nor had the least communication with its native inluihitants; tliey w^ere not even familitir enough with the coast line to he aware of the existence of the Columbia River. The only expeditious had been KKOM HAPTAIN CAKVKH T(» ( AP'J AIN COOK. 75 those of FeiTelo and Aijiiilai', and iieitliei' of these liad evcii made an attempt to kind. (V)ns(M|ueutly they had not and conld not apply the title Orcjon to its inhabitants — pec >]»!(' \\li(»ni they had never seen and of whom they knew notliiiii;. No allnsion is nnuU' to the natives of this nnknown kind in the record of any Spanish exjjlorer prevk)ns to tlnit date, and the Hisiiop's snj)|K)sition that they "disc(»vered and visited this eonntry," shows how nnfamiliar he was with the history (»f Spanish explorations on the I'aeitie Coast. His assertion that Carver crossed the e<»ntinent to tlu' Pacific is etpially at variance with the facts. The woi'd "Orciron" was nn- known to the Indians nntil after tin* coimtry was visite(l l»y trap- ])ers, and the liishoj* hims»'lf hears testimony to the fact that in all their extensive travels amoni,' the initi\ cs h«* and his missionary associates were nmd>le to find anthority foi- its nse. Thns we see that the Spaniards had not visited OreiLjon, and knowini; notliiiii; of its inhahitants conld not have called them "l»iii *'i»i- '\ that Carver did not visit the Columbia; that the word "( )i'eifon " was unknown by the Indians, aJld, therefore, could not have been conveyed 1 y them from ti'ibe to tribe nntil it reached Carver's ears; therefore, the Hishoj)''s theory is nntenabk'. E(jually so is the idea that Ore^ron was the Indian name of the Columbia, since if such were the case the early settleis of this region woidd have learned the name fi-om the natives, instead of having to teach it to them. The same objections are valid to the theory that the early Spanish t'X])lorers best«»wed the name because of the wild nnijoi'am {orii^auioii) foiuul alonj^ the coast, since we have seen that the Spaniards had never set foot on the coast of Oroji'on, and that the name nowhere ap[)ears in Spanish records. If eu{»hony of sound is to be relied upon, combined with the po[»idar but errone- ous idea that Oreiron wjis explore"! in early times l»y the Spaniards, then the writer desires to announce that he, also, has a theoi-y — that in sailing along the coast some romantic S])aniard conceived a resenddance between the graceful sununits of the Coast Range and the blue hills of his native Aragon, and bestowed that name upon this new land. To su[)port this he calls attention to the fact that the Spaniards named Mexico '*New S[)ain"; the Dutch called their settlement on the Atlantic coast " New Amsterdam," it being sub- sequently christened "New York" by the English; the region set- 7« HISTORT or .WILLAMETTE VALLEY. tle«l Uy tin* Puritans jind tin* MnssacliiisettH Colony was named "New Knsxland"; and the Frcni'h at one time called Canada "New France." Instances of this kind miylit lie easily inidtiplied, though, perhaps, the nearest and most convincing is the l»estowal of the title "New All)ion " upon California by Sir Francis Drake, because of the chalky hlufFs he had olisei'v«'d along the coast. Prof<mnd and brilliant as the writer con<*eives this theory to he, he feels com} >e lied to give jdace to the Irishman, who believed Oregon to l>e named in honor of his royal ancestors, the O'Uegons. There we have not only euphony of sound, but correct orthography, combined with a proj)er degree of ignorance upon the subject. The traditionary policy of the Hudson's Ray Company to head off, or render nugatory, all attempts l»y the g<)vernment to exjdore its chartered domains in search of the Straits of Anian, or some other pjiwsage into the Pacific Ocean from the North Atlantic, was strictly adhered to during the eighteenth century. They did not want the government itself nor the j»eople to have any knowledge whatever of the regions lying contiguous to Hudson's Bay, To that end they kejjt to themselves all geographical knowledge gained year by year by tlulr re])resentatives in the c(»urse of business trans- actions, or when sent upon special journeys of exploration hy the com})any. In 1745 Parliament offered a reward of t**J(),(K>0 to any one discovering a passage into the Pacific from Hudson's Hay, l)ut no one made a serious effort to earn the money. The com})anv was powei'fid enough to })revent it. Nearly thiity years later, howevei", having become satisfied fi'om information gathered by their eni])loyees that no such ])<assage existed, they dispatche<l Samuel Hearne in search of a copper mine, of which nuich had been said by the Indians, an<l which was to be found on the bank of a stream called by the natives the "Far-off Metal River." That they might have the credit of exerting themselves in searching for the j>assage whose disct)very had ostensibly been one of the leading <*bjects in organizing the com})any, they instructed Hearne to keep his weather eye open tov the Straits of Anian, and j)ermitte<l it to be understo«)d that this was the chief aim of his journey. The first ol)ject of note discovered by Hearne was Great Slave Lake, and he followed this and the connecting system of lakes and the Copper- mine River to the point of its discharge into the Arctic Ocean. FROM CAPTAIN CARVKR TO CAPTAIN OOOK. 77 The CoppenuiiH^ lie believed to he the stream to wliieh the Indiniis referred, but he found the jn'overhial eiicliautmeiit of distiince wum jih)iie reMnoiisil)h' for the stories of its trreat rielmess in t-oppci', and that, so far lus minerals \ver»' coiieei'iied, his journey and snfferini;s —for he eiidured many hai'dships and privations had been in vain. The Aretie he eoneeive<l to be an inland sea, similai* to Hudson's Bay, and such he rei>orte(l it up<»n his return to the eonipany's headcpnirtei's; also that no water passaire eoinun-ted the two ^reat bodies of water. Thou_i;h the journal kejtt by Ilearne was not published for twenty years, the company immediately eomminii- eated to the admii'alty the failurtMtf ll«'ai'ne to discover any North- west Passagt'. This seemed to «'nd all hop«' of findini;' such a waterway leading; out of Hudson's liay; but the discovery of the new sea opened the dooi' to new hopes. There mij^ht be a means of coimnunication between it and BafHn's Bay, and from it mii^ht possibly be found the h»n};-s(»ut;ht Straits of Anian, leadimcint<t the Pacific. It certaiidy resembled Maldona<lo's " North Sea." Tlie rapidity with which Russia was extendinu- liei- outposts in Ala-ska began to cause seriojs alarm in Spain. Inactivity and iipparent apathy iiad mnrked the conduct of that nation for a century and a half, so far its the ret^ion lyin<^ north of California was concerned. This, however, wjls not caused by lack of interest, but l>y circumstances ea.sily understood. All voyages (»f e.\[)l(»ration ha<l to be made at the expense of the Viceroy's treasury, and this the chief executive in the New AN'orld objected t<». As long as Spain Wits not threatened with the loss of exclusive «lomini(m on the Pacifii^ ('oast, there was notliing to arouse the government to action; nor was there anything in those unknown regions which was sufficiently tempting to induce the Viceroy to undergo the expense of a voyage (»f exploration unless stimulated by the jtositive orders of the crown. Now, however, affairs presented a different a»j)ect. The extent of Russian exploration and occupation of the North Pacific were unknown; no definite informati(»n had been received; the report of none of the Russian voyages had been pu}>- lished; yet that Russia was making (piite extensive discoveries in that region was well known in Europe, and it caused much anxiety in Spain. She was aroused to the display of great activity, aj)parently cond>ined with a pnrpo.se of discovering and taking 78 HISTORY OF AVILLAMETTK VALLKT. ])(>ss('ssioii of all the (roast not jiln'july ocrnyned l>y tlu* Miiscovitt^s. The first iii(iv«'int'nt iiiatlc Ity S])aiii was the coldiiiziiii.'' »>f Cnli- foniia. |>revioiisl\ sjtokcii of. The next was asei'iesdf explorations hv sea. .lamiary •_*.">. 1774, the covwitf Sii>///(ii;o sailed from San Bias, eoiiMiianded Ity .Iiiaii '.'erez, and piloted l>y Kstivau Martinez. IN'i'cz \va> iiistiiu-ted to |HMcerd as far north as tlh' sixtietli d«'<^'ee of latitude, and then to letnrn slowly alonir the coast, landini; at sundry aeeessihle points to take possession in the name (»f the Kiiiir. 'Pile .S'</;///r?;'(> touched at San Dieiroand Monterey. lie sailed from the latter poit on tlir sisiteenth of June, and siu-hted land apiin fhirt\tw<i <lays later, in latitude .")4", olT the coast of (^ueen Charlotte lsland>. Warned l>y the appearance of the dreaded s<-ui'\ y anionj.'' his t-rew that the voyay'e could not he prolon;^ed, Perez tui'ned aliout and coasted aloiitj to the southward. For a hundred miles he thus followed the <'oji.st, enjoyini; a lii.t;hly proHt- alde trade in furs with the natives, who came out to the vessel in i^reat canots and e.\cliann('(l sea otter and other valuaMe skins f(»i' mere 4 trill es. \ storm then di'ove the Sniiliaco seaward an( I slu did not apiin make the land tintil the ninth of Auijust, when slie anchored at tli entrance t»f a deep water Itay in latitmle 4i>" and .'50. In tl.'' direction of nomendatin-e tin- Spaniards were never at a loss, |»rovided not more (haii one name wiim re(|uired per day. \Vhene\er an ohject was discovered of sufficient impor- tance to reipiire christening', the devout Catholic turned to his IJoman ealenflar, and whatever saint was found to have heen declared hy the Church to he worthy of special lioiior upon that day, the mim»' of that camtnized mortal was hestowcd upon it. Followintr this rule I'erez discovered that the proper name of this harhoi' waM "San Iiorenz(»," and that name he entered upon his jon.iiial and chart. This harhor was afterward re-christened l»y the Kni;lish, and is ?iow kn(»wn as '• Kini; (ieoi'ire's Sound," or " Nootka Soun<l.'" It lies on the west c(tiist of \'ancouver Island, and was a few years later the scetu' of an interesting' episode •iiicli nearly precipitated a bloody conflict lietween (Jreat Hritain and S|>ii'n. Perez, stopped for a few (lavs to trade with the mitives, of whose ijitel!:L:en p-nce atio light c(»m)>lexion he makes specnil Uiention, ;uid then continue< th d s«tuthward. He oliservcd Mount Olympus, in latitmle 47" and 47 . which he christened "Sunt^i Hosaliu." A few days later he .sighted KKOM CAPTAIN CARVKR TO ( AI'TAIN COOK. 79 ('}i|)e Mt'iidorliio, \vlios«' cxju't latitude lie asccrtaiiicd, and in due time cii'i'ived at Monterey, liavintr l>y his sii)»ertieial uietliod added l»nt little to ii:<'o,<rrai»liifal know led lic Many yeais afterward, when the Straits of Fuea had l»een disci »\('re<l l»y an Kiinlish ea|)tain, and Sjtaiii was eui^r •< prove a pi'ior diseoNciy, Mai'tinez, the pilot of the Saiifiago, deelared that he had '.'"served a Itroad <»peninir in the coast line hetween latitudes 4.S" :t!id 411", and that he had l»e- stowed his own luiine upon the point t>f land at its entrance on the south. 'IMioUi^h there was nothiiii.' recorded in the iouiiial of the voyuije, Spanish t;eoijfra|>hers ac<'e|tted this (piesvionaMe state- ment as worthy of cicdence, and (h'si<fnated upon their ma|»s as "(\ipe Martinez," the headland now knoAvn as "Cape Fhittery." A second expedition was dispatched the follow inn' \ ear, with in- structions to pi'oceed as fai' noi'th !i.s the sixty-fifth |)ai'allel. This was couiposed of two vessels, the Saii/iaoo, commanded Ity Hruuo Ileceta, and piloted liy l*ere/„ its forniei- captain ; and the Soiiora. under. luan de Ayala, whose pilot was Antonio Mauielle. A I'rench iTcouiapher named Uellin had prepare(l a chart of the Pacihc, founded upon pi'inted r»|M>rt^ and rinnored discoM-ries made l»y \ari<tus nations, a chart which was " wonderfidly .ind feiirfidly nnide." It is ditiicult to conceive h()W such a map could \\n\v l>een |»roduced; certaiidy nothinu' l»ut the phosphorescent intelh'ct of a Fr. 'iichman could have evolved such a ijfeo^raphic.Ml monstrositv. With liellins chart, the latest issued, the explorers were supplied, and it is a fact far from creditalile that Spaniard"^ had made so Ion;/ a voya<re the year hefore without l>ein«; aide to co cct any of its excentricities. The Sait/iimv ti\n\ Soiiora, a<'conipanied liy the San Car/o.\. sailed from San lilas, March !."». 177"), and proceedetj to Monterey. There Ayala wis transfern'd to the San Car/os. liieutemint .luati Fran- cisco de la Hode<;a y (,>midra succeeding to the connnand of tlie Sonora. The latter vessel and the Saufuii^o then sailed from Mon- terey on their vo\a}.!;e of disc(»very. On the ninth of Juiie they ancliored in an open roadstead some distance north of Cape Men- docino, calline; it Port Trinidad for the Jill-satisfyinir reason that the day nientione(l wa> dedicated in the cah-ndar to the Holy Trinity. This is the same liay of Trinidad which caused so much excitement aiMoiii;' the Li'old hunters in is.")(>. and the follow inir yiir Iie<'amethe lauding phu-e for the devot^-es of "(lold UlufT."" Having spent nine 80 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLiSY. <1jivs at Tiii)i(la<l, tln^ vessels iiuain jmt to sea, and did iii>t sijijht land auain till in latitnde 4S" and '2~\ aecordinir to their somewhat faulty reekoninir, beini:' almost at the enti'anee of the Straits of Fucu. The (ireek pilot had located his passageway between latitu(h's 47" and 4s" ; and it beinu' thus indicated on Hellin's chart, tlie ex- turned to the soutiiward to search foi* what was almost >lorers 1 within the h'trizun line on the north. Of coui-se they found nothing. 'I'he (»nly adventui'e worthy of note in that reLjiun, was the killinir of se\en of the So/iorti s cvrw by the Indians. 'Phi mainland near a small island in latitude 47", w s occurred on hid J was nume<l Isl I (le Dol ores" (Island of Sorrows), the title, as usual, bein*; dictated by the calendar. It was afterward christened " Destruction Island" by an Kiii:li>h captain wli<> lost a boat's crew near that •oint m ureciselv the same manner, Here lleceta Itecame alarmed at the ravaifes the dreai U^d scurvy was mmittiuir, and desired to I'eturn bef. ore nis crew: en tireh succundM'd to the 'couriie. He was )»ei>uaded to coiitiiuie tile voyaire, l»ut a few da\s later a stoi-m s«'parated the two consorts, and Ibnt'ta at once headed his vessel for Monterey. lie observwl land in latitu<le .")(»", beiiiir the southwt'st |»ortion of Xancouver Island, but overlooked the Port S.in !,,oren/.o of I*ere/, and the Straits of Kuca, be«:innin<j: auain the sea>-cli f«tr (he latter in latitiuh- 48". lie made a ij:reat discovery on the tifteeiitii of .\ugust. 177"), l)ein<i- no h-ss than the entrance to the Cobunbia River. While sailimj (piietly uloni; the coast he suddeidy noticed an <tpen- • tni which tlow«'d a sticam of water with i;reat intr >i> the 1; ind fi force, lie en<leavored to enter, but tlie current was too stroinr. and for a whole da\ he was thus liaflled in iiis efforts t o e.\|» .1- •e w iiat lie was satislied was tlie cliannel of a ureat river, )>erliaps the Kio dc Afjjuilar, or, possibly, the Sti-aits of l*'uca, foi- wiiicli he iiad lieen so dilip'utly searching. He at last abandoned the effort and saih-d again towai'd Monterey, oliserving, for the tirst time, tlie coast <»r On-gon witli sutlicieiit carefulness to entei- upon iiis journal <piite accurate descriptions. Tliis was the first time tin- coast of Oregon was actually explored by the Spanianls, or any (»tlier nation, being a year later than the first publication of Carver's book containing the word "Oregon," and nineteen y<'ars after the journe\ of whicli tut' volume treated. It is plainly cedent that tin- name wat* iu»t FRUM CAPTAIN CARVEK TO CAPTAIN COOK. 81 l»esto\ve<l l>y the Spaniavfls. Ujxni his chart Heccta eiitcrfd the I'iver he ha<l (liscoven-tl not as a river, since he had not lyroved it to Ije siu-h, l)Ut as an iidet, eallini; it '' Ensefiathi de Asuncion." This inline was hcstowed for the all-siitticient reason, to a Spanianl. that the tifti-entli of Autrust was the (hiy of the Assumption. The sixteentli was «h'Voted l»y ^he cah'n(hu' to the tfloritication uf Saint Roc, and he therefore caUeil tin' proniontofy on the n<»rth "Calto de San Ho(|ue." Tlie cah'inhir iiavini; l»een exhausted he was coinpeHed to l»e>tow a more sensible titU' upon the low point of land on the south, which he christened "('alio de Frondoso " ( Leafy ('a|>e). Maps made liy the Spaniards thereafter had in- dicated upon them an indentation in the shoi'e line at thi?' point, variously nnirk»'d " Knsenada <le Ilcceta" ami " RiitdeSan Hocpie," acctirdini.' as the map-maker believed it to be a ri\er oi- simply an inlet. While lleceta was makin<,' these discoveries liodetra and Maii- relle were still sailiuL,' northward in the little Soiiora, eiideavorinir to obey their instructions. It was, a|)pai'ently, the policy of Span- ish explorers to j^ive th<' land .'is wide a bei'th as possildi'. KnglisJi navipitors always kept as close in sh«)re as circumstances would permit, carefully I'xamini li; every bay and inh't, inakinLr fre<pient observations and copious entries upon their journals. When their voyage was comjileted they were prepared to make an approximately correct map of the coast, accompanieil by lonir ami careful descrip- tions. Not so with the Spaniards. They ke[)t well out to sea, sii^htinir land here and there, and when they returned were utterly unable to rep<»rt anything save that they had sailed to a certain lat- itude and had seen land several times durinix the voyage. W hether I lie land observed was an island or a jMvrtion of the continent, or wliether the coast line was continuous, or was much indented with liays and inlets, they «'ould not lell. This is why the Sjianiards, even after the vovat'es (tf IN'i'e/, Ilci-eta and Uode<'a, were utterly unable to prepare a nnip of the coast wMch wji>* the least approach to the oi'i}^inal. It wjiw now they IteiLfan to appreciate the beauties of liellin's Chart, which had been })repared partly from the worth- less reports of t! -ir j»r«'«leceHsors, partly from the r('p(»rts of eipnilly superlicial Russian explorei-s. and j>artly from imaLjimition. Hn llie >i.\teenth of /VujjTUst, w hen the chart assuiM'd tlieni they were one H2 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. Iiiiiidrt'd iiiid tlilftx -five leiiifues (listaiit from the Amerioaii sluuv — iiiid it i> diltitult to uiidcistand Imw they could tlattei- tlieinselves that tht'V wt'iv fxphdiiiLT a c*>n.< line whii-h was one hundred and thivtytive leaiu^ues di-^tant - they suddenly diseoveied land both to the north and east of them. They were then above the tifty-sixth parallel, in the vieinity of a Imge snow-mantled jieak, risiuL' ahru]>tly from a headland on the coast, which they christeneij "Mount San .lacinto." This i^ the t.i' nameii '"Mount Kdirecundi "' h\ ('aj)tain ("ook. and stands nil the chief island "f Kiiiu: (leorire III.'s Archi- pcl.iLio. Siij»|»()>iuLr it to l»e a portion of the main land, tli >an- '1 aids lauded to take |>o>scs>ii»ii in the name of tlr>ir sovereign. Tl ley plauteti a <-ross. w itii a|>proj»riate ceremonies, and were luisily ciiiraifetl ill |»rocurin<r a -ujiply of fish and fresh water, when they wt'ie suddenly interrupted 1>\ the native propri»'tors. The ci l »ss was iiprootetl in sc(»ni and those who had erected it were Lciveii to understand that a ha^t\ departure would Ke airreealile. thoiiLdi they were n(»t permitted to makt- -<» much haste that payment for the Hsh and water was neijlectt'd. Thus eiuled the tiist efToit of Spain le «*oa.st north of Califoi-nia. They tlien continued their northward joiu-m-y as f.-ir as latitude 7)S", when HodeuK decided to 1 eiriii the homeward voyaire and «'.\plore the tt» take possession of tl coast hue more thoroiii udih The\ searched carefullx foi- the Ri< de h)s Heyes as far s<nith as latitude ."»4", liut did not find it; nor \\oidd I hey ha ' e found it hat! it l>een in existence, since .\dmiral Font*' located his wonderful stream under the tifty-third paiallel. 'I'liey landed again on the twenty-fourth of August, in a little harlwu' on the west coast of IVllice of Wale- Islali-I, where they took pos- sessi(Ui without interference from the Indians, and namtd the j)lace " Port liiicareli." in hoimr of the X'iceroy under whose (jirections the\ were acting, and wiujse proud privilege it was to pay tin* ex- penses of the Voyage. ( )ccasi(niall\ observing the coiist south ()f tliis point, the\ beiian airain, in latitude 4")", to scrutiiii/e the ( >regon shore in -ear«'li of AguilarV liiver, and though tliey oh- served several streams of vvatei' entering the sea. they wwe tiot of siitticieiit magnitutle to indicate a large stream, such a.s Aguilar re- porte<l having seen near the fi»rty-thifd parallel in I'Wi.'i. The> • lid, however. oli-.erve a prominent headland answering Aguilai's descri]>tioii of ("ape Blanco. Their next stopping place was iti a hay FROM CAPTAIN CAKVEP TO CAPTAIN COOK. H•^ which the Sonora entered on tlie tliird of Oetolter, and uhieli lio- detra MUjyposed was the Hun of San Francisco, lie learned later that it was a niueli smaller one lying a little fui'thci' north, and this has ever since heen known as P>ode<;a liay. These three vctyages jnstly entitled Spain to a claim to the entire coast from ('ape ]NIendocino <o Mount San Jacinto l>y title of explo- ration. If that title was of any valne, it l»el(»niLred to Spain; l»ut in these modern times, possession is a far stronger title than simple discovery, and the rnited States fonnd the claim acqnired fi-om Spain liaid to dcfcn^l against Kngland's actual possession of the soil. In fact, had she deju-nded upon it at all ( )regon wouM now l>e a province of (treat [ii'itain. Accounts of these important \oyages did not reach the puhlic through the medium of the |»ress; yet the fact that the Spanijirds had made several important voyages in the Pacific, and were evidently seeking to take possession of the entire coast, soon became known in England, and created great uneasi- ness. She could not stand sui»inel\ l»v and see her ancient eneinv secure a territory which she li;id covete<l foi years, e\<'r since the marauding e.\[)editi«»n of Sir Francis Drake two centuries before, l>ut which, as yet, she had made no direct effort to rea»li from the Pacific side. This yeai-, 177(), saw Fngland inv<dved in war witli her colonies on the Atlantic C'»»ast, yet she wjus none the ess eager to j)lant new ones at the other (-.xtremity of the continent. I lei' passion for actpiiring Uroad territorial dependencies coidd not We checked l>y hei' un|»leasant ex[>eriences with the confederate colonii's who had just de«'lared tliemsehcs free and independent. It is this p(dicy of colonial agu'randizement, systematically maintained through long series of years, which has made her the cent«'i' of an empire uj)on which the sun never st'ts, and in which In-r "morning drum heat follows the course of the sun in one continuous roll around the world." Parliament at once n'liewed her offer made in 1 745, of a reward of t'LM>,(Mi(t for the disctAery "f the Northwest Passage, though not limiting it to exploration iti Hudson's May. The reward was offered to any \esM'l, sailing in any direction, through any straits connecting the Atlantic with the distant Pacific, north of latitude Irl". This WHS inimicid to the husitjesH interests of the Hudson's Hay '.'ompany. and conse(|Uentl\ Wft^- picductiNt' of no greater residts 84 HJKTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. fliiin tlu' fornuT one. Tlu- Admiralty luul l>y this time become satisfied tlia*^ it whs iis«'less t<» seek for the passair*' <»n tlie Athwitie si(h% since all tlieir efforts wciv in some manner rendered al)ortive; and they ih-cided to dispatch an expedition to the Pacific to search foi' tin- passain'e on that sid<'. and t() learn, if |)ossil»le, the extent of Spanish and Russian occnpation. For this impoi'tant task the most renowned naviuator of his time was selected, Captain .Iam«'s Cook, whose recent extensive explorations in tlie Sonth Sen and Indian < >ceaii. extendinir into the Antarctic re<ri<>ii"^. had lieeii so thoi'(»Uirhly and intelliiicntly conducted that little was left for his successors to accomplish in the same Held. It was vitally necessary that tl»is means <>!' enterinu' tlie Pacific l»e discoxeicd if Knt,dand would jdant ct»lonies in \\\\> rei,non, I'or communication with them l)y way of the Horn or ( 'ape of (Jood Hope would lie too Ioiil;' and uncertain, 'i'he pultlic Lia/.e was centered upon Captain Cook, and durini; the lour yeais that pass<'d Itetwcen tin- departure and I'etuin of his Vessels, the <:allaiit na\iiiator ami his mission were lutt f"or<;ott<'n, e\en amid the excitiui! incidents of the conflict in .\merica and tin- Liraver poliliial complications in Eurtipe. Tlie expedition was com- posed of two vessels the Ncso/ii/ioii. a craft vviiich had just taken Cook aioiiiid the world, and a consort named the Discovery, ct>m- maiided l»y Captain Cliailes Clerke. In every particular the vess«*ls won- fitted for the ,\ork expected of them. Charts were pre- pared, emhraciiiir all the ufeoiiiaphical knowlediic of the time, except that recently jLcained l»y the Spaniardh. the details of whicli had not yet lieen rec<'i\t'd in Kiiu'land. This left a comparative Mank in the Pacific hetweeii latitudes 4.'V', the northern limit of A«iuilar's voyat;e. and .'>(')", the most southerly point on tlu' (•oast reached l>y the Kiissian exploreis. In this were iiidicate<l three important (»liject> the threat ri\<r supposed to exist some- where within those limits, the Straits of Fuca and the River of Kinjfs. Cook's iiistruetion>i were \er\ minute and paiticidar. FiU^dand was involved in war with le .\i:ierican colonies, while her old enemie-*, FratK-e and Spjiin, seemed ahoiit to add mat«'rial aid to the open encourageiiH'iit they i^ave the striiuglint; r«'l»els. It was inciimlH'nt upon her to do nothinu whatever to im-ur the op«'n liostilit\ of these warlikt nations, or to even ^ixf them a plausiltle excu.se fur declaring- a wai' wiiii-h they seemed n>ore than wiiliny; to KROM CAPTAIN CARVER TO CAPTAIN COOK. 85 ciiihark i»i. T** thus send an »'XjH'«lition into waters which Spain had for centuries looked uj)on as her <)wn special inheritance, and to explore a coast line whicli sjie had just visited and formally taken possession of, was a delicate matter, and Captain Cook was relied upon to do nitthinu to offend th«* Spaniards or antas^onize the Russians, whom he was expected to encounter on tlie coast of Alaska, lie wjus instructed to tii-st leach the coast of New AlUion, for such the Kn<flish still called California, in latitude 4.")", and was "strictly enjoined on hir. way thiiher, not to t<tuch u))on any jiart of the Spanish d<iminion^ on the western continent of America, unless driven to it hy some unavoidable accident; in which case he should stay no ionp'i" than should Ite absolutely iie-.cssary, and to he very careful not to i.d\f any undtratre or offense to any of the inhabitants or sultjects of his Catholic ju.ijf >ry. And if. in his further j>i"o^ress northward, he should liieet any suhjects of any Kin'o[»ean |»i'iiice or state (i-eferrinu r<^ the Russians), upon any part of the coast whit-h he niii^ht think p-' j* • to \ isit, he was not to distlM'li them or gi\e them just cause of ofietise, liut, on the c<tn- trary, t(t treat them with civility and friendship." He was also instructed to cxamuie the coast thorouifhl\. and "with the consent of the natives, to t.ike p<»ssession in the name of the \\\wj[ of (ii-eat Hritain, of convenient stations in such i-<. untried a* he mitrhl dis- <*over //la/ luui not been already diseoiered or ;'/s//e</ by any other liurofyeau pO'nX) . and to distril>ute amomr the inhaliitants such thintrs as Would renniin a-> traces of hi- ha\ in*.' Iieen there; l>ut if he shouhl Hnd the countrit's so discovered to lie nniidial'ited, he was to *.'ike possession of them f<'r lo- -overeiun. Ii\ -etiiiiLi' up proper m.-irks and (h'scriptioiis, ,is first di<»co\eier> and jtosse-<ors." A literal Mdhereuc< to ihe>e instru«-iion> would ha\e liarred Co<»k from the whole «'oast, since Spanish evplurers had \ isit«'d and taken foi'mal possession at varii>u- point- Imt the year Ix'fore It was irenerally s\ipposed that the ocean llearne had <lisc(>\ cred at the mouth v»t' the Ct»ppermine River wa- identical with the I*acitic, and that as progression was made northward tlu' c(»ast wonid lie found tiendinc sharply to the east, the reirion oeciipied li\ the Russians l>eii\ir Ji >*ca of islands l>in«r much to the westward of tip- main land «tf America. Reginninii; when he first espie<l land, he wa- to search for .Vguilar's River, or the (ireat Uiverof the West, then in latitude 8R HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTF. VALl.KT. 4S", t() look for tlic Sti'Jiits of Kiicii, and iicni- the fifty-tliini ]»jii'!illt'l to limil foi- Koiitr's llio (If los Kcycs. I'poti rcacliiiit; the sixt\ -tiftli jtaiiillrl lie was cxjifctt'd to fiml tlit-coast trt'iidiiiLT ra|)i(lly Unit licjistw aid towards the iiioiitli of the (o^jpcriiMiic: aihl from that point li«' was to explore carefully "siicli rivers or inlets as niiirlit ajipear to lie (if consideraMe extent and pointing' toward Hudson's or HatHn's liays." Tlirout^li all sueli he was to endeavor to pass, either in his lariat" vessels or in smaller ones to l»e eonsti'ueted for that |iurpose from materials taken with him for that eniei'i^eney. If, however, he diseovei'ed that the I'aeiHe and \orth Sea were n(»t identical, and that tlie coast line tui-ned westwai'd or held a north- ward course, he was to c(»ntinue on to the Uussian settlements at Kanitchatka, and from that p(»int saile(| northward " in funher search for a northeast or n(»rthwest pnssa<;e from the I'lwitic Ocean into the Atlantic or North Sea." Cook certaiidy had a iriirantic task Itefoi'e him. On (he twelfth of July, 177<'>, ciufht days after the lieli of In- dependence Hall had I'Uiii; out to the world the udad tidiiiirs that a free people had pledijed "their lives, their fortunes jilld their sacivd honor" in the cause of lilterty. Cook sailed from IMymouth on his mission. He rounded the Cape of (Jood Hope and >«pent neai'ly a year in exploriiii^ the coast of \'an Uieman's Land, .Ne\v Zea- land, and the Friendly and Society yroiiiis of islaiids. It was not until the eii^hteentli of January, 177^, that he encountered the Hawaiian LCioup of islands, making thus one of the most impoi'tant <li!S*.H)venes ill the Pacific. I'jHUl these he hestowed the name of "Siinil\N kh Islands," in courtesy to the First J^ord of the Admiralty. After a l)rief stay at tliis mid-ocean refiiifc. he i-esumed his course eastward, and on the seventh (»f March espied the coast of New Alltion. near the forty-fourth parallel. This was the coa.st of ( )rei;on in the vicinity of the rmp(iiia Kiver. Aflir lnillLi forced l>y li( idwinds as far south as Uogue River, he saileil ii iioilherly course W(ll out to sea, and did not ilgain see land until he I'eached latitude 48". To the ]>romiiieiit headland he then hiiw lie gave the name "Cape Flattery," lu'cause of the encouraging conditi(tii of affairs. Immediately north of Cape Flattery lay the Straits of Fuca, but on his chart the passage supposed to have lieeii discovered l>y the old Greek pilot was indicateil as lying south of the foily-eighth par- KI{()M (AI'TAIN CAKVKK TtMAl'TAlN IHOK. ST allcl ; and so lie coasted southward to tiiid it, little iriiairiniiiii^ that what he soiiglit was within a few miles of him, and tiiat he was deliher- atfly tuniiiiir his l>a(k upon it. Naturally he was unsucr«'ssful in his search, an<l coneliiiled that no such passaire existed, lie then sailnl north, passim.; dii-ertly l)y the entranee to the straits without oltserving them, and cast anchor in Nootka Sound, unaware that it was the one which Perez had enteivd a few vears hefore and name(l l*ort San Lorenzo"; in fact, he was unaciiuainted with any < t^ th |»articulars of the recent Spanish voyaires. This jiort he at first ••ailed "St. (ieorLTe's Souiid," l»ut soon chanir«'d the name to "Noot- ka," the pro[)er Indian title. The natives were very intelli>rent. 1' d •PI tossessed co|»i>ei\ H'on aiKl i»rass, and weit \h famil lar w 1 thtl le mernoc th of workiuiT them. They were »'xti'emely friendly and liartered val- ual)le furs for trinkets of any kind, |ireferi"inif metal to anythinjir The \ esse Is were coiistantK sinrounded l»v a fleet of c anoe w hose occujiants ju-id come for many miles aloni; the coast foi' the purpose of seeiuij: the white stranir«'i>* JHid tradini; with them. Here he lay nearly a month, re]»airinu' his ve-^sels and permittinnc the sea- men to recover from the ctTects of their lont:' voxaLfe. AI»out the first tif April he resumed his northward <'oiirse. In the vicinity of the Hfty-third parallel he intended to search for .\ilmiral l"'<tiite's Piverof Kinu's, luit wasiliiven to sea l»y a iraie ami di<l not auain see land until considcraMy north of that point. This did not a[tpear to him ill the liu:ht of a disaster, f<H' his journal says: "For my own part I irave no credit to such va^'Uc and iiiij»rol>altle sttn-ies, that convey their own confutation alontj with them; nevertheless, I v\as very desirous of keepinir the American coast aUoard, mi order to dear up this point heyoiid dis|iutc."' l''iom the tiftytifth parallel, vvher<' he aiLcain saw land, he continued north, in fidl view of the coast, nliscrvinu- the peak t-alled •' San Jacinto" l>v UoilcM-a, l>ut which lie named " l'!dL;eciunli' ; iliscov eriiiLT ;u>d naminir Mount Fair- weather, and on the fourth of May reachim: an immeUM- snow peak, standiiit; near the water's edsfe, which he at once recotrnized as the Mount St. Elias discovered liy Pehriiiu. 'I'he sharp westward trend of the coast from this point led ("ook reful search for the Straits of Anian. which he to h tl >eirui there a ea hoped t«) find leadini; northward into the North Sea, the e.xistenee of which Ilearne had verified, or eastward into llmlsoirs or liattin's 8H UIHTOKY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLKT. Hiiv. Tlic Ivussiaii cliarts sIiowimI this to Im- tlu- «'iiil of tin- Amcri- CiU I coutiiit'iit, all to tile westward ItciiiL' a vast sea of islaixis; roll- s('(|Ut'ntly ln' liad t^ood reasons for ('.\[)(rtiiitf to find a |tassai;(' into tlic North Sea. lie Ix'gan a diliijent search, ex])loi-in«; carefully all hays )uid inlets aloiiir the coast. Prince William's Sound and Cook's Inlet received special attention, and on his nia|i are very accinately laid down. The latter he at tirst siijiposed to l»e a river, and called it '"Cook's River," hut the erroi" was soon discov- ered. I'nsuccessful in tindin<f the desired |>assaire in either of these favoralile localities, he ct)ntinued westward, and soon found the coast trentliny; toward the southwest. Ilis careful explorations con- vinced him that this region was liy no means a sea of islands, hut that the American I'ontinent "exteinled much further to the west than, from the modern most reputahle chai'ts, he had i-eason to expect," and that the Russians had heen extremely suj)erlicial in their exploiations. lie determined to ahandon his jncsent effort and to follow the coast line to its termination, and then to ent«r Bt Urine's Straits. On the nineteeenth (»f June he fell in with the SclunMaifim Islands, where hv saw the Hrst tokt-ns of Russian pi-es- ence in Miat regit)n. One of the many natives who swarmed ahout the vessel possessed a piei'e of [)apt i', upon which was writiuLj which he conceiv«'d to Im- in the Russian lanirua<re. When he had |)assed the Aleutian Islan<ls, he sailed ai'ound them to the north, and then returned eastward, soon reachinij the laru^e island of Ounalaska, where he renuiined Hve davs without encounteriuif any Russians, thouirh he knew this t») he an important station in the fur trade. On the second of July he resumetl his search for an eant- ward |»assai;e, sailiiiir northerly aloni,' the west coast of the Alaskan Peninsula. He reached a point on the ninth of Auuust which he |»ro[)eily concluded was the extreme northwestern corner of America, since the coast heyond ti'ended steadily to the eastwai'd. This he mimed ''Caj)e Pi'ince of Wales." He then crossed Rehring's Strait and followed the Asiatic C'oast on the Arctic side as far as ( ai)( P Xortl 1. m latit ude (IS" and ."iC Ret urnmg to tl le American side, he jtroceeded Iteyond Ca])e Prince of Wales until his proijfress was arrested l)y the ice in latituih' 70" and •_".»'. This point he named " Icy Cape," and then retiu'netl to Ounalaska, where he found a few Russian fui' traders who were greatl} sui'prised to learn how FnOM CAPTAIN rAKVKI! TO <AI'TAIN' TOOK. S«) ('iT(tiU'OUH had Itj'cn the opinioiiH they ontertjiined of the jreogi-apliy of the N(»rth Paeific. From Oiiiiahiskji li«' saile<| (lir<'('tly to the Sandwich Islands, where lie sjteiit the winter. On the sixteenth of February, 1770, wliile j)rej)aiinj^ to renew his voya<^e, he was shiin in an iinfortuinite encounter with the natives of Hawaii, and notwitlistandins; the fact that every museum in Knj^hmd and America has on exhibition "the club that kilh'd Captain Cook," it is a well authenticated fact that he was slain with a s|)»'ar. The command now devolved upon Captain Clerk<', wh»»se ill health sci'iously affected the future nKtveniellts of the expedition. The loss <;f C'ook vvHs a calamity. ( 'lerke sailed in March, with the desi<rii of pusiiiiiir still fui-tlu-r eastward in the North Sea, and, if possible, passinj^ by that route into the Atlantic. < )n his way he entered the May of Avatscha, and cast anchor in the Harbor of Petroj>aulovski, the chief settlement of Kamtcliatka. The Kiissian otHcials received the visitors with i^ieat courtesy, beiiii; ^dad of an opjiortunity to learn of the geo<;raphii'al discoveries the Knulish- men had made. The voyajre was then resumed, but iuMiorance of the clinuitic pecidiarities of the Arctic region had led him to under- take the passai^e too early in the S|)rini;. The couse<pience was that he was prevented by ice from proirressinj^ even jls far as the season before, and returned to Petropaulovski with the conviction that no northern pjLssat;e existed Ix'tween the Atlantic and Pa- cific oceans. lieim; in ill health, Clerke lay at anchor in th«' Russian harbor until the twenty-sec(Hid of Autrust, when he died. The conunand of the expedition then devolved upon Lieutenant John (tore, who sailed at once for Emjland by the way of Canton and the Caju* of (iood Hope, deemiui; his vessels unfit to encounter another s<'ason in the Arctii*. The obj( : u' /oini; to Canton was to dispose of a lar<;e collec- tion of furs both ;!ie xium and oHicers had made, chieHy by tradinj^ for them wit"! rln natives of Nootka St)un(l. They had not l)een purchased for iiiarket, nor had they been selected accordiuij to their conunercial value, and many had been rendered unsalable by beini>' use<l for dothini; and beds. It was only when the Russians offered a lar<jje price for them that they realized the value (»f what they possessed; but as tlu' traders iiad inadvertently told them what great profits they made by shipping furs to Canton, they declined ^nj IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A <^4. ® 1.0 !f '- i I.I 2.5 M 2.0 11.25 n: 1^ A^ 111= 1.4 11.6 $ /} e n A^^ 'W ^ /A '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 V^«T MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (n6) r72-4503 7.x ^ \\ •s 90 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. to sell, preferring to take them to the better market. For this miscellaneous collection of furs the Chinese paid them $10,000. The men became excited at the prospect. The thought of return- ing to England without engaging for a time in the fur trade made them rel)ellious, notwithstanding they had been afloat over three years. As the narrative of the \'o}age says, they be(;ame " possessed with a rage to return to the northern coast, and, by anothei* cargo of skins, to make their fortunes, which was, at one time, not far from mutiny." The rebellious crew wa.s reduced to subordination, and the llome^vard voyage Avas resumed. It was early in Octolver, 1780, that the Resohdion and Discovery reached England, after an alxsence of ft)ur years and three months, during which time the coinitry had l)een engaged in war with her American colonies and her tivo immemorial enemies across the chan- nel. Cook and his expe(liti<>n had almost become forgotten in the excitement of current events, and the return of the vessels wdth in- telligence of the death of the two senior commanders and of the geographical discoveries which had V)ee)i made, was an luiexpected surprise. Until the complications of war were removed, England had neither time nor iiclination to attempt further discoveries or plant new colonies, and so the Lords of Admiralty pigeon-holed the official I'ecord of the vo}'age, to })e pid)lLshed after the conclusion of peace. They could not seal the lips of the seamen, \vho scattered about the story of their adventures, and the w^onderful ])rofits to be gained in l)uying furs for nothing from the Indians on tlie American side of the Pacific, and selling them for a great deal to the (Chinese on the Asiatic side. One of these seamen, John Led yard, an Amer- ican, endeavored to influence American and French caj)italists in a fur enterprise, l)ut unsuccessfully. He then conceived the idea of traveling around the world by way of Kussia, Siberia, the Pacific and America. Having secured a passport- from the Empress of Russia, he traveled as far as Irkutsk, when he was arrested, con- ducted to the Polish frontier and released upon the condition that he never again enter the empire. This arbitrary act is ascribed to the influence of the Russian fur monopoly, which did not relish the idea of foreigners prying into their business. While Cook's vessels were lying at Hawaii, and only nine days before the famous commander was killed, another Spanish expedi- FROM CAPTAIN CARVKK TO CAPTAIN COOK. 91 tion sailed on a voyage of discovery in the North Pacific. This was not caused by Cook's movements, for the Spanish authorities were unaware of his presence in the Pacific, but was the result of the government's desii-e to examli.: the northern regions more criti- cally than Bodega and Heceta had done. After three years of preparation the Princess and Favorita sailed — the former com- manded by Ignacio Arteaga and the latter by Bodega and Maurelle. The route of the vessels was much the same as that traversed by Hodega and Cook, and nothing of importance was noticed which had not been seen by those explorers. When they observed the coast-line beyond Mount St. Elias to trend westward, they began searching for the Straits of Anian, as had Cook the year before, but were l)y no means as thorough as the English navigator had been. Arteaga lacked the" quality of perseverance under disappointment and hardships which is so necessary to the successful explorer, and discouraged by his want of success, and fiightened l)y the appear- ance of scurvy symptoms among his crew, ordered the vessels }>ack to San Bias. Instead of being reprimanded for the superficial nature of his ex[)lorations, his faulty observations and useless charts, he and his associates were rewarded by promotion. Spain was now well satisfied of the extent and value of the coast to the north, but being involved in war was compelled to postpone any effort at coloniza- tion until her foreign complications were at an end. CHAPTER VII. SPAIN'S SUPREMACY IN THE PACIFIC OVERTHROWN. The Ru man- American Trading Company — France sends La Perouse to the Pacific — James Ilanna i/uckes the First Voyage in the Fur Trade from England. — England'' s Short-sighted Policy of Granting Monopoly Charters — The East India Company and South Sea Com.- pany — Their Conflicting Interests Leads to the Organization of the King George's Sound Company — Belief that North America above Latitude ^9° was an Archipelago of Huge Islands — First Voyage of Captain Meares — His Terrible "Winter on the Alaskan Coast — Cap- tain Barclay Discovers the Straits of Fuca — Meares Engages in the Fur Trade under the Portuguese Flag — He Builds the Schooner '•'■Northwest America " at Nootka Sou?id Explores the Straits of Fuca — His Unsuccessful Search for the liio de San Itoque — Decep- tion Bay and Cape Disappointment — The United, States Enters the Contest for Control of the Pacific Coast — The '•'■Columbia Rediviva''' and '■'■Lady Washington " — The Latter Attacked, by Indians, and the Former Suj^plies Spain with an Opportunity to Promulgate her Doc- trine of Exclusive Rights in the Pacific Martines sent to Explore the Coast and Investigate the Russians — His Report of Russian Operations Causes Spain to Send a Remonstrance to the Empress — Martinez Fortifies Nootka and Takes Possession in the Nante of the King of Spain — He Seizes the ^'Iphigenia " and '■'■Northwest Ameri- ca " — Colnett and Iliidson arrive in the '■'•Argonaut " and '•'■Princess Royal'''' — Are made Prisoner's by Martinez and sent to Mexico — The Prisoners Released and Vessels Restored — Controversy between England and Spain Terminated by the Nootka Convention — Stipu- lations of the Treaty Displease both Parties. THE first to avail theniselv^es of the discoveries made by Cook were the Russians They were not embroiled in war with any nation contending for supremacy in America, nor with any other SPAIN 8 HUPREMACy IN THE PACIFIC OVERTHROWN. 93 power which could attack their Pacific possession.s. Cook's voyage opened their eyes to the nature and value of the fur regions, and they resolved to enter deeply into that ^vhich they had heen simply skimming for forty years. The Kussian- American Trading Com- pany was organized in 17H1. Two years later three vessels were sent from Petropaulovski, to establish stations on the islands and main land as far east as Prince A\'illiani's Sound. Three years were consumed in this work. The hold Russia then took u[)on Ahiska was not rela.Ked until that I'egion was pui'chased by the United States nearly a century later (in ISOT) foi- S7,20(),()(»(>. The first official \-oyage made by the contending nations, after the Treaty of (rhent Avas signed, was sent out by France, In the winter of 17M4-5 Cook's journal was published, and though the "ya.rns" of his sailors had been freely circulated, this was a reve- lation tt» the peo])le, and caused much eagerness to be displayed to take advantage of the golden opportunity tiierein pointed out. The French government immediately dispatched a skillful and scientific navigator, named La Perouse, with instructit»ns to "explore the parts of the northwestern coast of America wliich had not l>een examined by Cook, and of which the Kussian accounts gave no idea, in order to obtain information respecting the fur trade, and also to learn wliether, in those unknown })arts, some I'iver or intei'nal sea might not be found commimicating with Hudson's Bay, or Baffin's Bay." La Per<mse sailed in ITSf), and on the twenty-third of Jime, 178«), readied the American Coast in the vicinity of Mount Fairweather. After remaining sevei'al weeks at anchor, lie proceeded slowly south- ward, minutely examining the coast, and discovering that the places where the F^nglish and Spanish exjdorei-s liad formerly landed were not on the mahi land, but on a long range of islands which fi'inge the coast. For tliis important dis(-o\ ery he received no credit, as his vessels were wrecked in the New Hebrides on the return voyage, and his journal was not published for ten years, long after othar explorers hat! dist-overed the same facts and made them known to the w^orld. The first successful venture in the fur trade was made by James Hanna, an Englishman, who sailed from the Portuguese East India port of Macao, in 17^5, secured a load of furs at Nootka Sound, and disposed of them in China for $2(),()()(). The next year he 94 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. re])eatt'(.l the voyage, luit found that other traders had arrived, whose c»>mpetition prevented the securing of a good cargo; also, that the Chinese market was glutted with this avalanche of furs. There was no profit in the business that year. England adopted an extremely short-sighted policy in her treatment of the Pacific question, and surrendered her claims into the hands of private monopolies. A century before, eager to disct)ver the long-st»ught Northwest Passage, she chartered the Hudson's Bay Company, giaiiting it almost royal power, and conferring upon it absolute dominion in that vast region whose waters fall into Hudson's Bay. Two centuries lui\e gone l»y and it is still a wilderness. In her anxiety to eonuuand the conunerce of the Pacific, and plant her foot on the western slun-e of America, she again committtil the fatal erroi' of delegating lier powers to private and selfish monoj)(»lies. At that time the East India Company was already finnly esial»lishe<l in India, and had laid well the foundation of that power which lia.s since added the title of " Emi)ress of tl)e Indies" to the cri»wn of England. To this gigantic coii)oration waw granted the monopoly of all trade with the port.s t»f Asia and adjacent islands — all other subjects of Great Britain being pnthib- ited from trading under severe penalties. A new assiK'iation, called the " South Sea Cimipany," wjis chartered, upon which was conferred the exclusive privilege of trade on the American Coast. Thus was the wlK»le commerce of the Pacific, so far as England was concernetl, j,''ven intt) the hands of two corporations, and all other su])jects of Great Britain, no matter how eager they might ]>e to embark in the fur trade and exjtlore the unknoAvn mysteries of the grent South Sea, were debarred from so doing. No English ships could pass aroimd Cape Horn save those of the South Sea Com[)any, \vhile the ensign of the powerful East India Company must fly at the mastdiead of every British vessel that doublnl the Cape of Good IIo2)e. It wjis of course the supposition that these two corporations, being rich and powerful, wt)uld at once end>ark in the fur trade on an extensive scale, and, as the rei)resentatives of the British crown, woidd lay k« broad and deej) a foundation for English power on the American Coast and the Islands of the Pacific, as one of them had already done in the land of the Brah- mins. Such was not the case, owing primarily to the coiiflieting SPAIN S SUPKKMACY IN THK PACIFIC (tVKKTHKOWX. 95 interests of the two compauies. The great fur market Mas China, l)ut fi'om the ports of that coni])any the shi[)s of the South Sea Company were debarred l»y tlie exchisive trade ))rivileges of the rival association. Nor was tlie East India Company more happily situated; ^^^th complete control of England's commerce in Asiatic ports, it was excluded frt»m the fur-producing coast of America. One controlled the st)urce of su])ply and the other the market, and neither could accomplish anything. The chasm between the rival companies was bridged by the organization of a third one — the King (xeorge's Sound Company. This association was formed iri ITS,"), and was granted special permits from both monojiolies, eiialtling it to embark in the Pacific fur trade under favorable auspices, Two vessels were dispatched by this company, the King George and Queen Charlotte, connnauded l)y C/aptains Portlock ami Dixon, They traded two years without paying expenses, the Cliinese nuu-ket havuig been flooded by this sudden shoAver of fur. Two (,)ther \essels sent the next year by the same company, and which reached Nootka in ITsT, prior to the retmii of Portlock and Dixon to Enghmd, were e(|ually unsuccessful, and the South Sea Company suddenly colla[)sed. Shares in the company, which it had fornudly taken fortunes to j)urchase, were thrown into the street, and the projectors of the enterprise )>arely escaped the rude clutches of a mob. The South Sea Bid»ble was completely Inirsted. These tradei's, in passing uj) and down the coast, learned what \a\ Perouse had discovered two years before — that all points north of Nootka yet vi> .'d by traders and ex[)lorei's, were but islands and not portions of the main land. The former llussian idea of the iegi(m occupied by them was revived, and extended to embrace the whole northern [)oi'tion of America. It was conceived that not a continent, but an immense archij)elago of islands occupiei that re- gion, and that through the channels separatnig them it wa« possible to reach the Atlantic. This idea was also suj)ported twt) years later by Captain Meares, who assigned as one of his rensons for hold- ing the belief, that "the chainiels of this archipelago were found to be \sv}i^ and capacious, with neai- two hundred fathoms deep of water, and huge promontories stretching tmt into the sea, where whales and sea-«ttters were seen in incredible abimdance. In some of these channels there are islands of ice, wdiich we may venture to 96 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLKT. isiiy could uevi'i- have foimeil on the western side of America, which posses.se.s a uiihl and xutnlerate cluuate; so that their existence can not l)e reconcileil ti> any other idea, than that they received theli* formation in the ea-tern seas, and have been drifted l>y the tides and currents throuirh the i>assage for whose existence we ai'e con- tending." He was not aware that the Ahi-ska ghiciei-s were con- stantly dropidng frozen i^fFerings into the sea. A few yeai-s hiter Ca])tain Vancouver denn»nstrated the fallacy of this theoiy, and gave us the tiiNt correct i<lea of the American continent with its coast fringe of islands. In 1 7M<i the great Kar^t India Com}>any, either having made some connnercial arrangement with the South Sea Comi>any, or purposely infringing upon the chartereil rights of the rival organization, dis- patched two small vessels to the American Coast for fin's. They met with sutticient success to enconrage the ct>mpany to engage in the ])Usiness on a larger scale; consetpieutly, two vessels were titte<l out, the jVoo/hi an«l Sea-Oi/cr^ in 1787, and dispatched to Nootka Sound, which was then the objective point of all fm' tradei-s. The former was under the command of Captain John Meares, a former lieutenant of the royal navy, and the latter by Lieutenant A\'alter Tipping. The Sca-O/hr folk>weil the Japan Ciment nutii she reachetl the Aleutian Islands, and then coasting .along eastward arrived at Pidnce William's Si>und. Thus far wji-s she traced by her consort, biit be- yond that j)oint her movements never were known, nor wa.s she ever heard from again. She wa« probaldy swamped in mid oeean, for ha(.l she l>een wTecked on the cojist some traces of her would have been disco veretl by the natives and reported to the traders. The Nootka followKl the same general course, and came to anchor in Prince William's Sound about theiii-st of October, Captain Mearw* designing to spend the winter in that port and resiuue the voyage along the coast in the spring. Unacquainteti with the climatic con- ditions, he had selecteil a j>lace sufficiently removed fi-om the path of the Japan Cm'rent and its branches to be practically Ijeyond it* influemies, and thus a place where all the rigors of an Arctic winter prevailed. During Octf)l>er, November and even December, the climate way generally plea.sant and always endiu'able, but there sud- denly came a change. All the chilling winds of the Borean cave SPAIN S SUPREMACY IN THE PACIFIC OVEKTHKOWN. 97 were unchained, and howled about the vessel, which was soon hf»und in icy fetters and buried beneath the drifting sno^v. The migratory Indians disappeared in search of a more agreeable al»ode, and ^vere ([uickly followed by all animal and aquatic life. The sun hid its face, save for a few moments at midday, when it seemed to raise its head above the horizon to cast a derisive glance U))on the sufferers, and then quickly disappeared, Meares' journal says: " Tremendout< mountains forl)a(le almost a sight oi the sky, and cast their noctur- nal shadows over the ship in the midst of day." Dejtrived of proper focHil and exercise, the imprisoned crew were quickly attacked with scurvy, whose horrible ravages it was impossible to check. Twenty- three died during the four months of their imprisoiuiient, while the othei*s were rendered so feeble as to l>e unfit to perform duty. At hist, in May, tiie ice released the vessel from its confining grasp; animals and birds returned, the natives again appeaivd, and won to health and stren£fth by fi-esh food and the invi<joratinu' ra\s of the sun, the afflicted crew were soon ready to resume the voyage. Dis- heartened by his terrible experience, and rendered short-handed by the death of so many of his seamen, Mears sailed in June for the Sandwich Islands, and fi'om there j)roceeded to China. Discouraged by these two disjistroiis voyages, the East India Company abandoned the Pacific fur trade and confined its attention to the enormous com- merce of India. Another vessel w^as engaged in the fur trade in 1787, the Impe- rial Eagle^ ])elonging to the Austrian Ea.st India Company, and commanded V»y Captain Barclay, or Berkeley, an Englishman ^vhose name is perpetuated in Barclay Sound, on the west coast of Van- couver Island. Nothing is remarkable in connection with this voy- age but the discovery of what was then believed to be the much sought and generally uncredited Straits of Fuca, only a few miles north of the location assigned by the old Greek 2)ilot to the passage he claimed to have entered. This Barclay observed wliile passing southward across the entrance; but he made no effort to explore it, simply entering its location upon his chart. He continued his course, and at the month of a small river just above the Isla de Dolores, where Bodega had lost a portion of his crew- a few years before at the hands of ine natives, sent a boat's crew ashore, who met a similar iate to that which had befallen their Spanish prede- # 98 HISTOHY OP' WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ct'ssoi's. Ill c'ommeinoratioii of the sad event be chrUtened the ill- fated phiee " Destruction llivei'," a title which was later. l»y i»ne of thos«» errors incident to inii\) making, ti'ansferred to the adjacent Island. When Captain Meares returned to China fiom his unfortunate winter in Prince Willianrs Sound, he did not, like the East In<lia Company, al)Hndon the fur trade; on the eontrar}-. he ^nteivd into it on his (»wn res])onsi})ilit}'. In order to avoid tlie re>tricti«»n placetl upon British subjects by the chaitei-s Parliament had granted the two great monopolies, he entered into a ct»nunercial arrangement with Juan Cavallo, a Portuguese merchant of Macao, a jnjrt near Canton belonsiinff to the croAni of Portuiral. Two vessels were fitted out and commissioned l>y the Portuguese Governor of Macao, nominally belonging to Senor Cavallo, and having Pt»rtuguese cap- tains named in their shipping papei-s. Nominally. Meares went in the ship Felice Advenhirer an supercargo. tht»ugh actually in com- mand; and William Douglas occu})ied the same jiosition in the Iphigenia Niibiana. A double pui-j^ose wjis sene*l by tha-i cloth- ing the enterprise with Portuguese apparel, as sj)eeial privileges were enjoyed by the sul)jects of that nation in the jjorts of China. Just what interest Cavallo and the two n«»minal cajitain** had in the enterprise is uncertain ; for Meares, a-* long as hLs interest* lay in that dii'ectioii, asserted that tlie undertaking was purely a Poitugiiese one, but when circumstances placed the balance of interest on the other side, as strenuously asserted that he alone was the owner and manager of the enterprise. The Iphigenia saUed for Cook's Inlet, where she was to begin operations, and trade sonthward along the coast until she reached Nootka Sound and united with her consort. The Felice headed for Nootka direct, where she arrived early in the spring of 1788. Immediately upon reaching that general rendez- vous of the fur trade, Meares began the coiLstmction of a small schooner for the pur[)Ose of coasting along the shore to trade with the Indians. He secured from Ma([uiuna, the chief, ijemussion to erect a small house to shelter his men while at work upon the craft, the consideration for this privilege being a brace of pistols and the house and contents Avhen he should finally de|)art from that re^on. Leaving his builders at work, the house having V«een erected and encompassed by a rampart of eaith, fi'om which frowned the rusted SPAIN S SUPREMACY IN TIIK PACIFIC OVEKTIIKOVVN. !>•.> nioutli of a diminutive cannon, Meares sailed down the coast in search of the passage reported by Barclay as havini; been seen by him the year before. June 29, 1788, he observed a broad inlet in latitude 48" 39'. Thou<di in the introduction to his narrative he states that "^he ol)servations of Captain liarclay \vei"e known to him, in the journal itself he takes the full credit of the discovery, saying: — "The coast ah)nf' whi''h we wer«' now sailing had not been seen by Ca})tain Cook, and we know of no other navigator said to have been this way except Maurelle." He continues: " From the mast- head it was observed to stretch to the east by the north, and a clear and unbounded liorizon was seen in this direction as far as the eye could reach. The strongest cm'iosity impelled us to enter this strait, which we shall call ]»y the name of its original discoverer, John de Fuca." The mate of the Felice^ John Duffin, was dispatched wdtli a boat's crew of thirteen men and a month's provisions, to explore the strait. In a ^veek tliey returned, all of them having been wounded in a conflict with the natives. Ten miles up the passage (according to Duffin's statement, but thirty as given by Meares), they were fiercely attacked by Indians, who fought ^vith great des- }>eratittn and seemed not to be intimidated by either the noise or deadly effect of the guns. Their weapons were clul>s, arrows, stone bludgeons, spears and slings, all of which they handled Avitli great skill. So fierce was their onslaught and so effectively did they use tlieir weapons that only to the protection afforded the seamen by the boat's awning was due theii* escape with their lives. Having found Fuca's Strait, or one which he believed to be the passage spoken of by Lock, he sailed soutlnvard in search of the Rio de San Roque of the S2)aiiiard Heceta. On the sixth of July he discovered a promontory which he believed to be the one Heceta had named " Cabo de San Roque." He describes his subsecpient movements as follows: After we had rounded the promontory a hirge bay, as we had imagined, opened to our view, that bore a very promising appearance, and into it we steered with every encouraging expectation. The higli land that forme<l the boundaries of the bay was at a great distance, and a Hat, level country occupied the intervening space ; the bay itself took rather a westerly direction. As we steered in, the water shoaled to nine, eight and seven fathoms, when bn;akers were seen from the deck right ahead, and, from tl»e mast-head, they were observed to extend across the bay; we therefore hauled out, and directed our course to the opposite shore, to see if there was any channel, or if we could discover any point. The name of " Cape Disappoint- 100 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. nieut " was given to the promontory (Cape Hancock), and the bay obtained the ti'le of "Deception Bay." » ♦ * We can now with uafety aswert that there is no Buch river as tliat of St. Roc exists, as laid down in the Spanish charts. To those of Maurelle (Bodega's pilot) we made continual reference, but without deriving any information or assistance from tliem. We now reached the opposite side of the i)ay, where disappointment continued to accompany us, and, beinif almost certain that there we should obtain no place of shelter for the ship, v t: bore for a distant head- land, keeping our course within two miles of the shore. The distant headland he named " Cape Lookout," it y)eing the one called " Cape Falcon " by the Spaniards, and now known as " Tillamook Head." Meares then returned to Nootka, having, an he expressed it, "traced every part of the coast which unfavorable weather had pre- vented Captain Cook fi'om approaching." The Iphigenia soon arrived fi'om the north with a large cargo of furs. The little schooner being now couipleted, she was launched and christened the Northivcst America. She was the first vessel constnicted on the Pacific Coast north of Mexico. About this time appeared two American vessels, the Columbia Rediviva^ commanded b}' Captain John Kendrick, and the Lady Washington., by Captain Robert Gray. The new-born republic of the United States, as soon as a treaty of peace was signed, began at once to resume those maiitime commer- cial ventures w-hich the Avar with England had suspended. Ameri- can vessels visited the poits of every country, and the whale fishing aroiind Caj)e Horn, which had been abruptly tei*minated, wa« resumed. In 1784 an American vessel entered the harbor of Canton, and in 1787 five vessels were engaged in the China trade. Untram- meled with the commei'cial restrictions which Parliament had imposed upon British subjects, they could engage in the fur trade with every prospect of success. It was for this purpose the Colum- bia Rediviva and Lady Washington., two names now so intimately associated with this region, had started from Boston with a load of Indian goods, and had come to anchor in Nootka Sound. Their voyage thither had not been unattended with adventure. In Jan- uary, soon after passing Cape Horn, a severe storm separated the two consorts. The Washington continued the voyage and reached the Oregon Coast in August, where, near the forty-sixth parallel. Captain Gray ran his vessel aground in attempting to enter an opening in the land, which he had explored in a boat and believed SPAIN 8 SUPRKMACy IN THE PACIFIC OVKRTIIKOW N. 101 to be the entrance to the gi-eat River of the West. While iu thia position the ship was attacked by Indiau.s, and in lepelling them and getting the craft into deep water again, one man was killed and the mate wounded. This place he called " Murderer's Har))or," and is considered l)y (ireenhow to have been the mouth of the Columbia, and by Bancroft as Tillamook Bay. Captain Gray then pi'oceeded to Nootka Sound, where lay the three vessels belonging to Meares, his appearance being a great surprise to the Englishmen. The Columbia was damagetl l)y the storm which had driven the two vessels apart near Cape Horn, and enterwl the Spanish port on the Island of Juan Fernandez to repair damages. The comLi . idant, I Km Bias (xonzales, treated Captain Kendrick with great courtesy and hospitalit}', for which he was promptly cashiered '. y th<' Cap- tain-General of Chile, and this action wa^ aj»j)r(»ved ))} the Viceroy of Peru. Fi'om f'; •■ position taken by Spain in the sixteenth cen- tury, she h'ld never in the least degi'ee recede<l. hhe still claimed (tomplete dominion of the west coast of America, and the sole right of trade with all regions approachable by the way of Cape Horn. In 1692, nearly a century before, a royal ordinance had l)een pro- mulgated, decreeing that foreign vessels of every nation, irrespective of the relations existing between those nations and Spain, should be seized wherever found iu Pacitic waters, unless they possessed a trad- ing license from the government of Spain. The commandant at Juan Fernandez was informed that he .should have enfoi'ced this ordhiance and seized the Columbia^ and the authorities of all the Spanish Pacific ports were then specially instructed to carry out the decree to the letter. Not only was this done, but the Viceroy dis- |)atched a cruiser from Callao to overtake and capture the Columbia. In this it was unsuccessful, and Captain Kendrick reached Nootka unmolested. Soon after the arrival of the two xVmerican vessels. Captain Meares loaded all his fui"s up<jn the Felice and sailed for China; the Iphigenia and Nortlnuest America soon after departing for the Sandwich Islands to spend the winter. The Colu7nbia and Washington remained at anch<^r in Nootka Sound until spring. The sight of these English and American vessels venturing into the Pacific — and those spokci; of above were by no nieji.is the only ones, since several exploring expeditions traversed the South Pacific whose work had no particular bearing upon the history of this •102 msTOKY OK VVII-t.AMKTTK VALLKY. region — adinonislied Spain tluit if sIk' would maintain her supremacy she must be up and doing. While she, in her sluggish nature, had been content with an occasional superficial exploration, productive of little information of value to her or the rest of the world, these foivigners were Ixddly infringing her prerogative and skimming the rich cream of the fur trade. The northern limit of actual Span- ish occupation was then at the Bay of San Francisco, and the authorities determined to extend it still further without delay. This resulted in the dispatching of tm expedition for the purpose of selecting suitable locations for several Spanish colonies, as well as to ascertain the extent and character of the Russian settlements in the extreme north The fleet consisted of the Pr/ncesa, com- manded by Estivan Martinez, former pilot of Juan Perez, and the San Carlos, under the command of Lieutenant Gonzalo ITaro. On the eighth of March, 1788, the fleet sailed from San Bias and cast anchor in Prince William's Sound on the tAventy-flfth of May. There they lay inactive for nearly a month. The Spanish idea of exploration was very peculiar. While the English officers examined carefully every bay and inlet, took frecpient observations and sound- ings, and prepared careful charts of their course and discoveries, the representatives of Spain seem to have been satisfied with an occa- sional sight of the coast, and their map making consisted of the drawing of a straight line on a piece of [)aper, with an oc(^asional cape or bay marked upon it. Their maps of this region were cer- taiidy very peculiar. In June the San Carlos sailed towards the southwest, and encountering a Russian trading i)ost upon the Island of Kodiak, Haro interrogated the man in charge as to the number and condition of the Russian settlements in America. With the information thus obtained he sailed again to Prince AVilliam's Sound to join his superior. Meanwhile Martinez had made a few super- ficial explorations of the Sound, to drive away the ennui. The two vessels then proceeded to Ounalaska and their oflficers were hospit- ably entertained l)y the Russian traders for an extended period. With the knowledge thus aci^uired of the Russian settlements, Mar- tinez returned \\\\\\ his fleet to San Bias. He reported that there were eight settlements in Alaska, all of them Avest of Prince Wil- liam's Sound, while another was about to l)e established in the vicinity of the Sound itself. These were chiefly occupied by natives SPAIN S SUVHRMACY IN TlfK PAcrFFO OVERTIIKOWN. 103 of Siberia and Kamtchatka, all subjects of the llussian Crown. He also reported that he had been informed of two Russian vessels ^vhich had been sent to effect a settlement at Nootka, and of two others under construction at Ochotsk to be used for a similar pur- pose. The information thus gained by Martinez was forwarded to Madrid, and the Spanish Court was much agitated by the disclosure of Russian encroachment upon what were considered the dominions of Sf)ain. Her settlements were already sufficiently extensive to give her undisputed title to Alaska, and she was now threatening to extend her colonies far to the southward. The infringement of English and American fur traders upon the commercial rights of Spain was nnnoying enough, l)ut here was a positive and imminent danger of being supplanted entirely. The government determined to take a fiim stand, to meet the crisis and ward off the impending l)low. A remonstrance was sent to the Empress of Russia, calling attention to the encroachments of her subjects upon the dominions of Spain in the Pacific, to which the Empress responded that her subjects were acting in accordance with her express instructions not to invade the territory of other powers. As neither communication stated what tlie cori'esponding powers considered the limit of their claims in America, the diplomatic interchange settled neither the (piestion nor the intent of tlie two sovereign powers. Meanwhile active operations were undertaken by the Mexican Vicei'oy. Early in 1789 Martinez and Haro were ordered to sail for Nootka in the Princesa and San Carlos, and to take possession of that port in the name of Spain. Their instructions were to treat foreigners (toui'teously, but at ail hazards to maintain the right and authority of S])ain in this region. On the sixth of May the Prin- cesa reached her destination, finding tAVo vessels lying there at anchor, the Columbia aii'l Iphigenia. Only a few days before, the Iphigcnia, Captain Douglas, and the little Northwest America, Cap- tain Robert Fiuiter, had arrived from their winter's sojourn at the Sandwich Islands, still carrying the Portuguese flag at their mast- heads. They reached port in a condition of exhaustion, so far as supplies were concerned. From the natives and the American ves- sels enough supplies and articles of l:»arter were procured to enable the little schooner to leave port upon a cruise along the coast iu 104 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTK VALLKt. search of furs, jind she accordiiigl}' t(jok her depaiiiure. Captain Gray also started out upon a similar errand in the Lady Washing- ton, meeting the Princcsa just without the harlwr. Immediately upon entering the port, Martinez -informed Captains Douglas and Kendriek that he had come to take possession in the n/»nie of his sovereign, examined their papers, and then landed and began the erection of fortiiications on Hog Island, a commanding jiosition in the bay, calling the port " Santa Cruz de Nootka." No ■)V)jections were made either by the Americans or the English officers of the quad Portuguese vessel, and everything appeared satisfactory and harmonious. Apparently it was the intention of the Spanish com- mandant to seize the Iphigenia^ as subsecjuent events indicate, but his actit)n was delayed for prudential reasons. On the thirteenth, Haro arrived in the San Carlos^ and the next day, deeming his force now sufficiently strong, he suunnoned Douglas and Viana, the actual and nominal captains of the Iphigenia, on board the Princcsa^ to have their papers again inspected. This time the documents were not as satisfactory as he had previously found them. He took ex- ceptions to the clause in their instructions i'e(puring the officers to capture any Spanish vessels which might interfere with them, and carry their crews to Macao, to be tried for piracy. He considered a vessel sailing under such instructions a lawful prize as soon as she entered a Spanish port. In \'ain it was urged that the instructions were only to apply to such vessels as might unjustifiably attack them, and were i)ui'ely defensive in their nature; tlie Spanish officer refused to view the matter in that light, and put them under arrest, sending a force to take possession of the brig and raise the Spanish flag. Twelve days later, having had plenty of time to reflect and becoming convinced that the objectionable clause was not of as hostile a nature as he had at first assumed to believe it, anil fearing that he had overstepped the bounds of prudence, he released the brig and restoretl his prisoners to their liberty. He also furnished all the supplies needed for a voyage to the Sandwich Islands, taking in exchangt! drafts upon Juan Cavallo, the nominal Portuguese owner of the vessel. He also secured the signatures of Douglas and Viana to a certificate that he had found the vessel in distress, had furnished her with necessary supplies, and had not interfered with her voyage. This certificate Douglas afterwards claimed to be un- SPAIN S SUPREMACY IN THE PACIFIC OVERTHROWN. 105 true; that he had signed it under duress, at the urgent solicitation of his men, in order to secure the release of his vessel, and that the brig had been plundered by her captors. That this was not the case was attested by a letter signed by Captain Gray and Joseph Ingi'aliam, mate of the Columbia^ and, further, by the fact that, although ostensibly bound for the Sandwich Islands, Douglas turned northward as soon as he was out of sight, and engaged in a season of highly prolitable traflSc along the coast. The certificate was not the only paper Douglas signed to procure his release and supplies. He entered into a written agreement to restore the Iphigenia or pay her value, in case the Viceroy of Mexico should decide the capture to have been lawful. Martinez desired to possess the little schooner, and having her value appraised by the Americans, requested Douglas to sell her at that price. He was told that no one there had the authority to dispose of the vessel, but he insisted. Douglas therefore gave him a letter to Captain Funter, Vt^hich Martinez supposed to be an order for her delivery, but which was simply a note informing the commander of the little craft of the Spanish ofiicer's wishes, and intimating that he might follow his own inclinations. He then set sail at once, fearful his duplicity would be discovered, and made the voyage previously alluded to. When the Northwest America ari'ived on the ninth of June, Martinez seized her, claiming to do so by right of his agreement with Captain Douglas. Meanwhile, two other vessels were on their \vay to Nootka. Meares, when he reached China the fall before, succeeded in mak- ing a pooling arrangement with the representative of the King George's Sound Company; and as that company possessed trading licenses from both the East India Company and South Sea Com- pany, there was no necessity for longer maintaining the Portuguese subterfuge. The two vessels of the Cvjmpany were com])ined with the three belonging to Meares. The Prince of Wales had been sent to England, leaving the Princess Royal still in China. This vessel was placed under the ^ -:•. -^aa^x of Captain Thomas Hudson, and the Felice having been sold and the Argonaut purchased, Cap- tain Colnett assumed command of the latter. The last named gentleman was given charge of the expedition, since Meares remained in China, and was instructed to establish a permanent station on 100 IIISTOHY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. the American Coast, to l»e called "Fort Pitt." A small vessel, to be launched upon arrival and used f(n' the coasting trade, formed part of the cargo, and seventy Chinamen were taken along to be employed at the new settlement. According to Spanish authority, the Chinese passengers claimed they had eml)arked for Bengal, and not America. AVhat became of them after the subsequent troubles there is no evidence to indicate. The two vessels sailed from China, one in April and the other in May — the Princess Royal being the first. She cast anchor in Nootka Sound just live days after the seizure of the Northxvest America. As she l)rought intelligence of the ])ankruptcy of Cavallo, the reputed owner of the little schooner, Martinez decided to retain personal i)ossession oi the craft to indenmify himself for the unpaid bills drawn upon the insolvent Portuguese by Captain Douglas. He accordingly changed her name to Gertrtidis^ and placing her in charge of David Coolidge, mate of the Lady Wash- ington.! '^t!Jit hei' out on a trading cruise on the joint account of him- self and the i^mericans, Avitli whom he had bt m on the most fiiendly terms. The furs Avhicli had been collected were turned over to Captain Hudson, with whom he did not interfere. By this time the Americans had decided to send one of their vessels to China with the furs which had been collected, and from there to Boston to report the condition of affairs. Accordingly, Captains Gray and Kendrick exchanged vessels, the former sailing for China in the Columbia. Martinez availed himself of this opportunity, and placed the crew of the ca})tured scho(nier on board and sent them to China. On the second of July the Princess Royal sailed on a trading voyage; the next day passing the Aj'gonauf just outside the harbor without commimicating with her. Captain Colnett was informed of what had happened by parties who liad gone out to meet him in a l)oat, and decided to anchor outside. Martinez came out and in the most friendly niiinner invited him to enter the harbor, assuring him of pei'fect security, and as Colnett afterward stated in a narra- tive of his voyages, urgently solicited him to do so for the piu'pose of supplying provisions and other necessaries to tlie Spaniards, who were in great disti-ess. Won by the cordial appearance of the invi- tation, Colnett assented, and the Argonaul was towed into port by Spaniards. There is no reason to suppose that it was not the inten- SPAIN K sri'RKMAOY FN THE PACIFIC OVKimiHOWN. 107 tion of Martinez to treat the Argonaut with tlie same courtesy he had shown to the Princess Royal, ^vlieii he inxited Colnett to enter port, l)ut his conduct underwent a rapid transformation when he learned from that officer that he was instructed to found a fortiiied English colony. He at once informed the English Captain that he had already taken possession of the country in the name of the King of Spain, and could not permit any such proceeding. The next day Colnett went on lioard the Princesa and requested permis- sion to sail immediately, which was refused, since the Spanish commandant feared it was the Englishman's purpose to seek some other port in which to establish liimself, and his duty to his govern- ment required that he prevent such a consummation at all hazards. He asked Colnett to exhibit his papers, and the Englishman returned to his vessel, arrayed himself in full uniform, sword included, and then again presented himself in the cal)in of the Princesa, with the papers in his hand. The papers were examined, and Colnett was informed that he ^\■o^dd not be permitted to sail just yet, whereat he fell into a passion and a (puirrel ensued, re- sulting in the arrest of the captain and the seizure of his vessel. Ten days later the Princess Royal x^iwvwi^A^ her commander being ignorant of what had happened during his brief absence, and was at once seized by the Spaniards. A portion of the furs captured were given to Captain Gray to pay the passage to China of the cre"\v of the Northwest America. The officers and men of the Argonaut an<l Princess Royal were placed on l)oard the former and sent to San Bias. In September, Martinez and Haro, in obedience to instructions from Mexico, dismantled the fortifications and departed from No(jtka; and as ♦^he Lady Washington was away upon a coasting \ -^^'age, that l)one of contention was left without a claimant. So prostrated was Captain Colnett with the severity and sud- denness of his misfortunes that he became temporarily insane, recov- ering, however, l)efore he reached San Bias. The commandant at that port was the well known explorer Bodega y Quadra, and he received the two captains with the greatest of courtesy, sending them to Mexico to lay their case before the Viceroy, Revilla-Gigedo. After considerable delay it was officially decided that Martinez, though only following his special instructions and the royal 108 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. decrees, had ovei-stepped the bounds of prudence. The prisoners were accordingly released, and were paid the regular wages of the Spanish navy for the whole time of their captivity. The Argonaut, which, with the other two prizes, had been maintained in active service, was restoreil to Colnett, rather the woi"se for wear. He sailed in her for Xootka in the spring of 1790, and not finding his other vessel there, set out in search of her, not obtaining possession till a year later at the Sandwich Islands. During all these occiu-- rences the Americans wei-e on the most friendly terms with the Spaniards, so much st> that they were accused of co-operating with them against the English. The facts are that they Avere inactive, though not entirely disinterei-ted spectators, since it naturally pleased them to set^ theii" rivals so summarily disposed of: and it is not impossible that they (^cca*iionally dropped a hint into the com- mandant's ear. Captain Keudrick I'emained on the coast till fall, collectin": a larsje cargo of furs, and then sailed for Boston by the way of China. It is claimed by some historians that before leaving he sailed clear aroiuid Vancouver Island, and Meares' chart Wars an indication of the route pursued. This chart is of itself evidence that the maker of it was ignorant of the nature of the inland chau- nel, and the probabilities are that Meares misunderstood Kendrick's account of the movements of the Lady IVas/ujigton while under the command of Captain (irray, and confusing them \nth Kendricks assertion that there was a channel back of Nootka, a j)iece of infor- mation gleaned fi'om the Indians, supposed that sucli a voyage had been made. Although it is possible that he did circumnavigate the island, yet it seems improbable, and Kendrick never laid claim to such distinction in after years. If he did, then an American vessel was the fiivt to enter the Straits of Fuca and explore that wonder- ful inland sea, the Gulf of Georgia; if not, then the honor lielongs to Spain, as will be shown later on. So much for the events at Nootka ; but there was a gi-eater field of action on which the.se differences were decided — Europe. The Viceroy of New Spain made haste to notif}^ the home government of the important event.* which had happened in the far-off Pacific. It took a long time for news to travel in those days, when there were no telegraphs and no regular routes of intelligence between these distant shores and Europe; consequently Spain, which was Spain's supremacy tn the pacific overthrown. 109 in the most intimate connection with the Pacific Coast, received the news long before it readied England. The first intelligence received by the British Cabinet ^\•HS an arrogant and very undi])lomatic note from Spain, on the tenth of Fel)ruary, 1790, notifpng the King that certain of his subjects had been trespassing npftn the Pacific possessions of Spain, and that in eonse(|uence of this the ship Ar- gonaut had been seized as a ]>rize and her crew made prisoners. The note closed with an assertion of that exclusive i-ight of Pacific trafllc which Spain had proclaimed for a century, and the enforce- ment of which had led to the present complications; in pursuance of that idea the punishment of the offenders was demanded, and an earnest protest made against the King j)ermitting any of his subjects to make settlements, or engage in fishing, or trade with the natives on the American Coast of the Pacific. To such haughty language the Kum oi Ensjland was entiivly uuaccustometl. Great Britain never had even constructively admitted any of the exclusive privi- leges claimed V)v Spain, and she was not now likely to tamely sub- mit to them when they were so aiTogantl}' promidgated in justifica- tion of an outrage cttmmitted upon her subjects. The response was prompt and characteristic of tliat nation, whose vigilant guardian- ship of her citizens extends to the remotest corners of the earth. The (/ourt of Madrid was notified that since it was evident fi'om the Spanish protest that English subjects had been imprisoned and their property confiscated, full reparation must be made and satis- faction for the insult given, before the merits of the controversy would be consideretl at all. Spain, England and France were just begiiming to recuperate fi'om the effect of the struggles in which they had been engaged, and each of them was anxious to avoid further hostilities; yet the dignity of England required her to take a bold stand in defense of her subjects. The belligerent tone of her response set Spain at once to preparing for war, to avoid which she modified her demands considerably, notifying His Majesty that the restoration had ab'eady been made and the matter would be allowed to drop, if he would promise in future to keep his subiects away from the Spanish possessions. This was the status of affairs in April, when Meares arrived from ('hina. When the Columbia reached Canton, in the fall of 1789, with intelligence of the Nootka proceedings, Meares armed himself no inSTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. with documents ami depositions and embarked for London, to lay liis grievances before the King. On the thirtieth of May he addresse*! a memorial to his sovereign, detailing the affair from his standpoint, and though it was full of misrepresentations, as has since been con- clusively shown, it was adopted sis the correct version by the gov- ernment. From this rep-rt it seemed that three vessels had lieen seized, instead of one, and that Englishmen had taken possession of Nootka lu'fore the S[>aniards, since Meares declared that the A'lcr/^- zocst America wa-^ an Knglish vessel, and that when he built her he had established a permanent settlement on land purchased from the Nootka Chief, Macpiinna. He did not inform the King that the little schooner had never flauntetl any flag but that of Poi-tugal, and that when the vessel was finished the building in which the work- men had lived was turnetl ovei' to IMaijuinna in payment for the privilege of temp«»rarv «)ccupation of the land, as had ]>een agreed upon in tlie beginning. England, on the fifth of May, sent a reply to the second note fi-om Spain, asserting that she was not preparetl to admit the exclusive pri\'ileges claimed by Spain, but that she was prepared to protect her subjects, and ^vould not consider the ^lues- tion at all until proj^er satisfaction had been given. On the six- teenth of ^lay, England made a formal demand upon Spain for restitution of the captured vessels, indenmity for losses sustained (estimated l>y Meares at :^(;58,433), and fidl rfcknowleilgement of the right of English subjects to tratle in the Pacific, and to establish settlements at any i>oints not already occupied by Spain. On the twenty-fifth the whole correspondence was laid by the King ]>efore Parliament, which had Vtefore been ignorant of it, and he was wamdy applauded for his conduct and assured of support. Spain's position was an exceedingly humiliating one. Even in her decline she had maintained the haughty spirit and arrogant assumption of suj^eriority and exclusive rights which had fii-st }>een asserted by those j>otent mouarehs, Charles and Philip, Init which now, vvith her fast waning ]X)wer, she was not able to supix»rt by force of arms. England's vigorous preparations for war seriously alarmed her. She had too many improtected colonies, dejjendencies from Avhich she derive<l great revenues, to risk a war w ith a jwwer- ful maritime nation, whose operations, of coiu'se, would be chiefly dii'ected against those \-ulneralde points. In the long negotiations fjPAIN S SUPKEMAOY IN THE PACIFIC OVKltTlIROWN. Ill wliii-li followed she again modified her position, stating that she had no desire to claim any territt>iy not jnstly hers, that the vessels had already been restored, and that she was willing to jiay any damages whieh miffht l»e assessed atjainst her ]>\ arbitrators to whom the esise should be sulnuitted. England was proud and overl)earing, and putting aside ecjuity, acted thn night >ut as her interests seemed to indicate, conscious of her superior j)ower. Slie a9send»led the greatest armament tlie nati«jn had ever prepared, and was ready at a (hiy's notice to make a descent up<»n the Spanisli settlements in Am«M"ica. She even formed an alliance with Sweden and the Netherlands, in anticipation of the co-operation of Fi'ance and Spain against lier. It was a well-known fact that there existed a compact of mutual defense between the nionarchs of France and Spain, both meml»ers of the Hourl)on family, an<l it was natural for England to expect it to be fulfilled. Ihe King of Spain foi'mally called upon Louis XVI., of France, for the promised aid, and was assured that it would be given; but when the matter came before the Na- tional Assembly that body refusetl to sanction any increfise of the military forces, and the King was powerless, for the sj)irit of that bloody revolution which ])roke out three years later had already banislied altsoluteism from the kingdom. The Assembly examined the treaty between England and Spain, investigated the (piestion of Pacific discoveries, especially the alleged voyage of Juan de Fuca, of which no evidence could be found, and finally decided that the nation would stand on the defensive with Spain, but could not be relied upon for offensive operations. The national armament was thei'ef >re largely increased. It was noAV England's turn to come dowi, from her high liorse. She saw that France would be drawn into the war, and finding her new allies unreliable and that she could not well afford the enormous expense of a war, the prepara- tit»us for which had already depleted her treasury, she adopted a more conciliatory tone, and her plenipotentiary sulmiitted a propo- sition .v'hich ^vas accepted l)y the representative of Spain. This was signed on the twenty-eiglith of Octol>er, 1790, and is known as the " Nootka Convention." By this treaty it was stii)ulated tliat all buildings and tracts of land on the northwest coast of America of which Spanish officers hail dispossessed any British subjects, should Ije restored; that just 112 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLZT. reparation should be made by both parties to the agreement for any acts of violence committed by the subjects of either of them upon the subjects of the other; that any property seizetl should Ije re- stored or compensated ft>r; that subjects of Great Britain should not approach \\'ithin ten leagues of any part of the c«»a.><t already occupied by Sj)ain; that north of that point Ijoth jiarties should have equal rights, as well as south of the limits of Sjjanish settle- ments in South America. The treat\' met with violent opposition both in S])ain and England, but was tinally ratified and went into eifect. The Spaniards looked upon it as a voluntary surrender of their hereditary rights acquired by the explorations and conquests of their ancestors; that formerly Spain possesseil exclusive rights in the Pacific, whicli were now beinjj surrenderetl to Enorland with- t)ut an)^ comjiensation \vhatever. On the other hand, the opposition in Enghmd claimed that, wliereas, formerly British subjects enjoyed the right of tratle in every quarter of the gh^be, the Government had agreed by this treaty to surrender these rights in c-ertain re- gions to Spain, and that England had agreed to restrict her settle- ments within certain limits where she had before asserted her priv- ilege of settling colonies at any place not previoiL<ly occupied. It seemed to both parties that valuable and inuuemorial rights had been surrendered without any compensation. Captain George Van- couver was appointed commissioner on the part of Great Britain to proceed to Nootka and execute that portion of the treatA" which refen-ed to the restoration of propei-t}% and the celebrated Bod^a y Quadi'a was intrusted with the same duty on the part of Spain. CHAPTER VTII. PUGET SOUND AND COLUMBIA RIVER DIHCOVERKD. E;eploiations of Lientenant Qtiimpm' hi the Straitn of Fnca — lie takes Fm^mal Possession for Spain — Elisa E,eplores the Straits of Fuca and Gulf of Georgia — Malaspina and Bustamantu Search for the Straits of Anian — Kendrick Again Visits the Coast and Buys Land from the Indians — Gray Arrives in the Coluinhia ami Winters at Clayoquot — Events of 1792 — Sjxmi makes a Last Effort to Explore the Disputed Region — Arrival of Vancouver's Expedition — He Ex- amines the Oregon Coast — Searches in Vain for the Rio de San Roque — lie Records his Unqualified Disbelief in such a River — • Gray Builds the '■^Adventure " at Clayoquot — lie Discovers the Co- lumbia River — Vancouver Explores Puget Sound and Falls in with the Spaniards — He Examines the Coast Carefully — Mr.ets Quadra at JVootka- — E^inds Him Prepared with Proofs to Sustain the Cause of SjKiin — They Fail to Agree or Terms — They Bestow their Names upon the Island of Vancouver and Quadra — Broughton Explores the Columhia — Vancou/ver Finishes His Explorations and Returns to England — The Nootka Question Settled and the Port Abandoned. WHILE England and Spain were engaged in their ))elligerent controversy, the Viceroy of Mexico was bnsily enijdoyed in exploring the region under dispute. His oljject wjis two-fold — to learn if it was worth an effort to liold it, and if so, and Nootka had to be abandoned to the English, to find a desirable point south of that port for the foiuidation of a settlement. This he was doing with- out being aware of the status of aftairs in Europe. To this end he dispatched a fleet in the spring of 1790, with instructions to again take possession of Nootka Sound, fortify and defend it — artillery and a c<impany of soldiei-s were taken along for that purpose — and use it tus a base of explorations. The fleet \\ as under the connnand f; lU HLSTOKY OF WILLAMETTK VALLKY. of Tileuton.int FianciHco Elisn, and eonsiHted of tlu* Conccpcion, San Carlos (Fi/ipiiio) and the Princi'sa Real. A seru's of voyages was at once undertaken, s(»me of them directed northward to gain infor- mation of the movements of tlie Russians. The most important was tliat of Lieutenant Alfere/ Manuel QuiniiUM', in tlie Princcsa Real (Princess Royal), wliich liad not yet been restored t«» C'aptain Col- nett. In the summer of IT'.tO he h'ft N(»otka and entered the Straits of Fiiea, earefully examining both shores of the passage for tlie distance of one hundred miles. This was probably the fiivt vessel to actually enter and explore the Straits of Fuca. He wsis also the discoverer of Puget Sound, into which he penetrated a short distance, and mistook it ioY an iidet, calling it " Encefiada de Caamano.'" He was prevented from extending his explorations further in that direction by lack (»f time. He Itestowed names upon many objects in that region, all (»f which now bear the titles after- ward gixen them by Vancouver and othei's, exce[(t the nuiiu chan- nel leading north, which he christened "Canal de Lope/ de Haro." On the first of .Vugust he took formal |)ossession of that region in the name of his sovereign, at Port Nunez (raona, now known as Neah Hay. He was prevented by liead winds fi'om returning to Xootka, and falling in with the San Carlos, whii-h had been on a voyage to Alaska, the two vessels sailed for Monterey and San Bias. There was no othei- vessel in those w^aters in 171)0, so far as is known, exce})t the Ar^vnaul, in which Captain Colnett was search- ing for tlie Princess Royal, as befoi-e stated. In May, 1791, Elisa himself embarked in the San Carlos, which had returned to Nootka, and started out to make a complete recon- uoisance of the coast from Mount St. Elias to Trinidad, accompa- ni<Hl ))y the Santa Saliirnhia (or Horcasitas)^ under Jose Maria Narvaez. They entered the Straits of Fuca, ascertained that Caa- mano Ldet was an inland j)assage, which they did not enter, and exj)lored the Gulf of (jeorgia jis far noi'th {is latitude 50°, calling it "Gran Canal de Nuestra Sefiora del Rosario la Marinera." They bestowed many names, some of which are still retained as originally applied, such as "San Juan Archipelago," " Guemes," "Tejada" ("Texada") " Islands," and "Port Los Angeles." Other names which appear in his chart are still in use, but have in some man- ner been shifted to other objects than those to which they were I'UOET SOUND AND CULUMUIA KIVEK DISt «tV KKKD. 15 originally given, such as "Gaamann," •• Fi<lalg(t,"" " Hosario," "Cordoba," etc. Many jjassages leading lnlan<l wei-e observed hut not explored for lack of time; and this letl him in his report to the Vicer(.)y to nay: "It appears that th«* oceanic passage so zeal- ously fiiought for by foreignei"s, if there is one, can nt»t be elsewhere than l)y this great channel." The revival of interest in the almost forgotten romance of Mai- (Umado, cause<l by the controvei*sy bet\ve«*n England and Spain, led the latter to make another effoit to Hnd thos«- fabulous straits foi- which so many had searched in vain. The ctirvt'ttes Discubicrta and Atrevida, under the command of Alejandro Malas[)ina and Jose de Bnstamante y (xuerra, had saile«l ujkiu a voyage of circum- navigation, and upon tlieir amval at Acapulco in the spring of 171H, were met by orders directing them to search for Maldonado's Straits of Anian. They sailed, and tiist sighted land on the twenty- third of June, near Mount Edijecundt. The coast line in the vicinitv o^ <^lii :tieth parallel was carefidly examine<l, and being satisfied that tl. passag<' he sought did not exist, Malaspina sailed south- ward and anchored in Nootka Soun»l on the thirtieth of August, about the time Elisa returned iwnw. the Gulf of (leorgia. He soon sailed southward to California. During 1791, while the Spaniards were making these exi>lora- tions, the most complete and satisfactory ever acc(»niplished by them, one French, nine English and seven American vessels weiv also in Pacific waters. As their objects were j>urely conunercial, little of iniportaice was accomidished by any of them in the line of new discoveries, though each added something tt» the increasing knowl- edge of the coast. N<^ troul)le occuiTed ]>etw»'en them and the Spanish forces at Nootka. The Viceroy Itevilla-liigedo stated {/n/orme, iji): "Althou'di various craft of England and the American Colonies frecpiented the adjacent cojists and ))orts, some of them entering Nootka, nothing occurre<l t<» cause unpleasantness or damage; and our new establishment wa> always respected by them, and provided with all that was neetle«l by the other San Bias vessels, which brought at the same time the supplies for the ])resid- ios and missions of Alta California.'" Am«>ng these trading vessels was the Lady Washington^ which had Ik^.u transformed i' ... .. brig in China, in doing which Captain Kendrick, who was an v-asy-going. 116 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY. pi'ocrastiiijiting indivulual, had lost a sejisoii's trade. This year he "Ns-as fairly ssiiceessful in ol)taining furs, and also in securing the piir- eliase of a large tract of land from Chiefs Matjuinna and Wicana- nish, for which he received written deeds, duly signed by the grant- ors with a cross. Copies of these deeds, which included practically the whole of Vancouver Island exce})t that already claimed by the Sj)aniards, were forwarded to Thonuis Jefferson, Secr^^Liry of State, and filed in the [»ul>lic ai-cliives. The other American vessel of note was tlie Cohnnbia Rediviva^ which was again sent to the Pacific in the fall of 1 TOO. arriving at the harbor of Clayo([Uot, on Vancouver Island, just nortli of the Straits of Fuca, in June, 1791. She was still under tlie connnand of Captain Robert Gray, her first officer being Ilohei't Haswell, \\ iiose diary of the voyage, sis well as of the ])revious one, at Avhich time he was second niace of the Lady Wash- ington^ is one of tlie best and most reliable sources of information in regard to the events of those voyages and the complications at Nootka. Gray soon sailed for the Queen Charlotte Islands and engaged in trade with the natives for several months, exjdoring many inlets and channels. In latitude 54° 38', he entered a [)assage and sailed northeastward a distance of t)ne hundred miles without finding an end. lie then retiu'ued to the sea, supposing he had discovered the Ilio de los Reyes of Admiral Fonte. He named one portion of it "Massacre Cove," because of the uuu'der of second mate Caswell and two seamen by the natives. This su])posed pas- sage was Portland Inlet, through which runs the boundary sej)arat- ing British Cohunhia tVom Alaska. Not having collected a sufii- cient (pnuitity of furs, owing to the number of vessels trading on the coast, dray decided to sj)end the whiter at Clayo(|Uot. lie accordingly anchored the Columbia in that harbor, built a house, mounted cannon upon it, and then began the construction of a small schoonei", the frame of which he had brought, from Boston. This place he called " Fort Defiance." Kendrick had, a few weeks l)e- fore, been engaged in repairing the Lady Washington^ at a point in the same harboi* which he had christened " Fort Washington," but had departed for China soon aftei- Gray^s ariival. The year 1792 was an imjiortant (me in the history of the North- Avest Coast. More discoveries were made and more important explorations carried on than in any year before or since. Spain, ITOKT MOrr^D AND COLUMBIA KIVKR OrscJOVERKD. 117 England and the United States by sea, and a representative of the great Northwest Company l)y land, threw a flood of light upon the dark geography of the Coast. At least twenty -eight vessels visited this region, the majority of them to engage in the fur trade, repre- senting France, Spain, Portugal, England and the United States. I*assing by the majority of these without further mention, let us turn our attention to those ^vhich made valuable discoveries. These were the Columbia^ under ('aptain Gi'ay, tA\'o vessels under Captain Vancouver, and a small Spanish fleet. Early in the si)ritig of 1792, the Mexican Viceroy, not satisfied with the great discoveries made by Quimper, Elisa, Malaspina and Hustamante, made a last effort to determine the existence of the Northwest Passage and the desiral)ility of contending further for the possession of Nootka. If there existed a navigable passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, then a station in that region would l)e invaluable to the interests of Spain; but if the continent was c(mtinuous, so that vessels muht always entei* the Pacific from the south, then an estal)lishment in such a high hititude would not l)e sufiiciently valuable to render a contest foi* its ])ossession advisalde. He, therefore, dispatched a vessel to search for the Rio de los Reyes in latitude 5;V'; two others to explore more fully the Straits of Fuca, and fiscertain the exact nature of those many inland channels of the existence of whicii simply the previous ex[)lorers had reported; and a fourth to seek a desirable ^^cation along the coast of the main land south of the Straits of Fuca, where a station might be esta1)lished in case the settlement at Nootka had to be aliandoned and it was deemed necessary to have one in this region. At tile same time Bodega y Quadra, who had been appointed commissiimer to carry out the stipulations of the Treaty of N(H)tka, proceeded to that port to await the arrival of the T'(^!i)resentative of Great Britain. Thc; first of these was the Araiizazii, connuanded by Lieutenant Jacinto Caamaiio, who minutely examined the Queen Chai'lotte Islands, sailed through the passage between them and the main land (enter- ing by Dixon Channel, which he called " Entrada de Pere;^," in honor of the .)riginal discoverer^ and made a comparatively accu- rate map of that region. The expedition to the Straits of Fuca consisted of the schooners Suiil ami Mexicana, connuanded by offi- cers detailed from Malaspina's expedition, and supplied l>y him with lis IIISTOKY (»K W'll.LAMKTTK VAI.i.KY. sc'it'iitiHc* iiistruiiK^iits. Tlicy wciv i-onmiiiiKled l)y Dionisio Galiano {ind Cayctaiio Valdcz, and arrived at Nootka on the twelfth of May, leaving that port for tlieir field of action on the fourth of June. The fourth vessel was the Princesa. In this ship Lieutenant Sal- vador Fidalji'o sailed from San Hhis on the twenty-thii'd of March, and ai'rived at Port Nunez Gaona (Neah Hay) just within the en- trance to the Straits of Fuca, where he erected huildings and forti- t'cations. In Septend)er, having received orders from Quadra to al)andon this post, he removed everything to Nootka. Other Span- ish veHsels passed up and down between Nootka and Montere}% or San Bias, but their movements we'j immaterial. The commissioner a])pointed on the pai't of England to carry into effect certain provisions of the Nootka Treat}', referring to the restoration of property at that port, was Captain (xeorge Vancouver, of the Royal Navy. The Admiralty took occasion to make his voyage one of extended discovery, directing his attention es|»ecially to the clearing up of geogra])hical conundrums on the coast, par- ticularly that of a rivei or any other iutor-oceanic passage. Special attention was to be directed to the "supposed Strait of Juar de Fuca, said to I>e situated between the forty-eighth and forty-nnith degrees of north latitude, and to lead to an opening through ^vhich the sloop Washington is reported to have passed in 17H9, and to have come out again at the northward of Nootka." This voyage of the Washington, as has been already stated, was never made; Meares, who had cari'iiHi the report to England, having confused Captain Kendrick's a-count of the movements of that vessel with geographical' statements of the Indians. Vancouver commanded the sloop of wai' Discover')', and accompanied by the armed tender Chatham, under Lieutenant AV. R. Broughton, sailed in March, 1791. It is neeiUess to follow his movements for the first year, as they do \\i>i concern the purposes of this volume; it is sufficient to say that after a year of exploration in otiier regions, he arrived off the coast of California in April, 1792, in the vicinity of Cape Mendocino. Here he began a most careful examination of the coast, strict watch being kept for signs of harbors and navigable rivers, espec iaily at first of the river reportetl above the forty-third pai'allel V)y Martin de Aguilar in 1()08. A point in latitude 42° 52' was at IMCiKT SOI'M) AND OOLUMBtA lUVKH DISCOA'KRKl). 111> first conceived to be the Cape Blanco of tlie Sjjaniards, l>ut nince it was composed of dark, craggy rocks, instead of lieing white, Van- couver entered it on his chart as " Cape Orford." A little further on, in latitude 415° 23', he observed a cape with white cliffs, which he believed to be the true Blanco, but as he also considered it the one Captain Cook had called " Cape Gregory," he entered the latter name on liis chart. For some distance he ranged along the shore within a league, looking carefidly for Aguilar's River, but obsei'ved no stream ha\'iiig any such volume of water as was ascribed to the one reported by the Spaniard, and, indeed, saw none that offered the least indication of being navigable for ships. The next point of special interest to ]>e examined was that in the vicinity of lati- tude 4(3°, where was locatad the place called " Ensenada de Heceta," or "Rio de San Ro(pie," on his Spanish charts, and "Deception Bay " (m the English ones. On the twenty -seventh of April he recorded in his journal: Noon broufifht US' up with a conspicuous point of land composed of a cluster of lunnniocks, moderately high and i)r<)jecting into the sea. On the south side of this promontory was the api)earance of an inlet, or small river, the land not indicating it to be of any great extent, nor did it seem to he accessible to vessels of our burthen, as the breakers extended from the above point two or three miles into the ocean, until they joined tliose on the beach nearly four leagues further south. On refer- ence to Mr. Meares' description of the coast south of this promontory, I was at first Induced to believe it was (..'ape Shoalwater, liut on ascertaining its latitude, I pre- sumed it to be wlint he calls Cape Disappointment; anrl the opening to the south of •it Deception Bay. This cape was found to be in latitude 46° 1!)', and longitude 23(i° <)'. [He reckoned east from (Ireenwich.] The sea now changed frt>m its natural to river-coloured wat<!r; the probable conse<iuence of some streams falling into the bay, or into the ocean to the north of it, through the low land. Not considering this opening worthy of more attention, I continued our pursuit to theN. W., being desirous to eml)race tlie advantages of the prevailing breeze and pleasant weather, so favoiu'able to our exan\ination of the coast. Vancouver i-ouiided ('ape I)isaj)])ointment and continued up the sliore. lie says: "The country before us presented a most luxuri- ant landscape, and was j)robably not a little heightened in value by the weather that i)i-evaiU'd. The more interior [)arts were some- what elevated, and agre«^a)»ly diversified with hills, from which it gradually descended to the shore, and terminated in a sandy beach. The whole had the a})j)earance of a continued forest extending north a.s far as tlie eye could reach, which made me very solicitous to find a port in the vicinity of a country presenting so delightful a prospect of fertility; our attention wa.»< therefore earnestly directed 120 HISTORY OK WILLAMSITTK VALLKY, to this oLject." At one time he was of the opinion that Shoalwater Bay pi'esented a snitahh' harbor, l)ut renounced the l)elief upon attempting to ent' r the bay and failing l)ecause of the pivsence of an unbroken line of breakers. They i)assed Gray's Harbor in the night, and after noting the jiosition of Destruction Ishmd and observing Mount 01ym2)us, " tlie most remarkable mountain we had seen on the coast of New Albion," fell in with the Columbia a few miles south of the Straits of Fuca. Vancouver sent an officer to the American vessel to glean infor- mation from its commander, Avho hesitated not to tell him all he knew of the coast, including a denial of the report that he had sailed around Vancouver Island in the Lady Washington. Among other things the English captain notes in his journal: "He likewise informed them of liis having been off the mouth of a river in lati- tude 40° 10', where the- outset, or reflux, was so strong as to pre- vent his entering for nine days. This was proV)ably the openin-^ passed 1)}^ us on the forenoon of the twenty - seven tli ; and was, apparently, inaccessible, not from the current, l)ut from the breakers that extended across it." That Gray must have made this effort to enter the Columbia sometime the previous year is evident fi'om the fact that Vancouver states that he "was now commencing his summer's trade along the coast to the southward." The above remarks show plainly that A'^ancouver had no faith in the existence of such a stream as AL''uilar's liiver, Hio de San Ko([ue, Oregon, or Rivei' of the W^'st, and this is rendei'ed more certain l>}' an entry in his journal made upon reaching Cape Flattery, tlnit there — Was not the least apjjearance of a safe or secure harbour, either in that hititude, or from it soutliward to Cape Mendocino ; notwithstanding tliat, in that space, geogra- pliers had thouglit it expedient to furnisli many. * * * So minutely had this extensive coast been insjjected, that the surf had been constantly seen to break upon its shores from the mast-head ; and it was but in a few small intervals only, where our distance precluded its being visible from the deck. Whenever the weather prevented our making free with the sliore, or on our hauling oft' for the night, the return of line weather and of daylight uuiforndy brought us, if not *;o the identical spot we had departed from, at lea«t within a few miles of it, and never beyond the northern limits of the coast which we had previously seen. An examination so directed, and circumstanceH Imppily concurring to permit its l)eing so executed, afTorded the most comi)lete opportunity of determining its various turnings and windings. * * * It nmst be considered as a very singular circumstance that, in so great an extent of sea coast, we should not until now [He had entered the Straits of Fuca] have seen the appearance of any opening in its shores which presented siny certain prospect of affording shelter; the whole coast forming one IMTftKT SOUPfD AND COLITMIUA RIVEU DISCOVERED. li>l compact, Holid and nearly straight barrier against the sea. The river Mr. Gray mentioned should, from the latitude he assigned it, have existence in the bay, south of Cape Disappointment. This we passed on the forenoon of the twenty-seventh ; and, as I then observed, if any inlet or river should be found, it must be a very in- tricate one, and inaccessible to vessels of our burthen, owing to the reefs and broken water which then appeared in its neighborhood. Mr. Gray stated that he had been several days attempting to enter it, which at length he had been unable to ett'ect, in consequence of a very strong outset. This is a phenomenon difficult to account for [Gray accounted for it easily enough by the theory that the outset was the discharg- ing of an unusually large river, a conclusion Vancouver would not admit because he had been there and had not seen itj, as, in most cases where there are outsets of such strength on a sea coast, there are corresponding tides setting in. Be that, however, as it may, I was thoroughly convinced, as were also most persons of observation on board, that we c«)uld not possibly have passed any safe navigat)le opening, harbour, or place of security for shipping on this coast, from Cape Mendocino to the Prom- ontory of Classett (Cai)e Flattery) ; nor had we any reason to alter our opinions. The coast has since l)een found much less barren of harbors tlian this distinguished navigator supposed, though, with the single e.xception of the Columbia, there are none affording entrance to large vessels Avithout first undergoing improvement. Lea\'ing Cap- tain Vancouver in the Straits of Fuca, let us follow the movements of the American vessel. The Columbia, as has been stated, wintered at Foi't Defiance in the harl)or of Clayo(|Uot, her crew being l)usily employed in con- structing a small sloop, which was launched in February and chris- tened the Adventure. This was the second vessel constructed <m the Pacific Coast north of the Spanish possessions, Meares' North- west America being the first. Haswell, the first mate, was placed in command and sent northward on a trading voyage along the coiist on the second of April, while Gray sailed south in the Co- lumbia. Nothing is known of his movements until the second of May, exce[)t what Aancouver records tis having learned fi'om him as stated above. This was on the twenty-ninth of April, when they met just below the entrance to Fuca Straits. From that it appears he had been off Deception Bay, either that spring or the year })efore, wliich he believed to be the entrance to a large river, and which he had in vain endeavored to enter for nine days. The vessels parted ; Vancouver scouting the idea that a river could pos- sibly exist at that point, since he had been there and had not ob- served it, sailed into the Straits of Fuca in search of an inter-oceanic passage; Gray, convinced of the correctness of his own observa- tions, sailed southward to discover and enter the greatest river on 122 IIISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. the Pacific Coast and the nO'-oiid in size on the continent of North America. On the seventh of May Gray entered a port in latitude 46° 58', which he nanieil "' Bulfinch Harhor," in honor of one of the ovNnieiN of his veaseh lie sailed out again on the tenth, liaving, while there, repulstnl an attack hy the natives, killing some of the assail- ants, and on the eleventh safely crossed the bar which liad l)efore l)affled him, and sailing ten miles up the stream cast anchor in the mighty Columbia, for so he named it in honor of his vessel. He also bestowed the name "Cape Hancock" u})on the high promontory on the n(»rth, which had V>efore been known as " Cab«» de San Rocpie"" and "P«»int Disa])j)ointment;" and upon the low j^^int on the south, fonnerly called " Cape Frondoso," he bestt>weil the name '' Point Adams." Three days later he ascended the strejmi fifteen miles further, an«l havinij ffotten into shoal water bv reason of miss- ing the channel, he dropped down again, and anchoretl nearer the mouth. The inhabitants of the Chinook village <»n the noith bank were very frieiidly. and from them Gray ol)tained a large «[uantity of furs. It was not until the twentieth that the ]>ar was smooth enough to jtermit the Cohimhia to cross out, but on that <lay she sailed northwanl, and later, at two points on the upj)er coast, had bloody conflicts witli Indians who attacked her. Here was met the Adventure^ which had been twice aroiuid Queen Charlotte Islands and had enjoye<I only a moderate tiade with the Indians. They then made another trading voyage to the north, during whicli the Columbia struck up«>n a rock in the inland passage just above lati- tude Si", and was considerably damaged. She succee<le<l in reach- ing Nootka, where, with the assistance of the Spaniards, slie was soon made tiiiht and seaworthv aijain. She aijain saile<l north, met the Adventure at Port Montgomery, on Queen CharK>tte Island, and both vessels returned to Nootka, where Gray found Captain Vancouver and gave him a memorandum of his discovery of the r ^lum])ia River. He then sailed for home In' way of Sandwich i <nd8 and China, having first sold the Adventure to Quadra for seventy-five select sea-otter skins. After speaking the Columbia^ Vancouver's two vessels entered the Straits of Fuca on the thirtieth of April, and proceetled slowly inland, making a careful examination as he progressed. The ves- PIU4KT SOrND AND COLr.MlUA IMVKU DISCOVEItK!). 123 sels anchored at Port Discovery (^tbe Porto Bodega y Quadra of Lieutenant Quimper), and from tliat place, as a rendezvous, Captain Vancouver and Lieutenants Meiizies, Puget and Johnstone explored the channels and hays to the southward for a])out four weeks. Vancouver bestowed the foll<twin<jr well-known names in that reffion: " Puget Sound," in honor of Lieutenant Puget; " Hood's Canal," for Lord Hood; "Admiralty Inlet;" "Mount Rainier," after Kear Admiral Rainier of the English Navy; " Vashon Island," after Cap- tain Vashon; "Port Orchard," the name of the officer who discov- ered it ; " Possession Sound," where he landed on the fourth of June and took possession in the name of King George of England; " Port To wnsend," in compliment to the "noble Marquis of that name;" " Whidby Island," after one of his lieutenants; "Mount Bakei," discovered by Lieutenant Baker; " Bellingham Bay;" "Deception Passage;" " New Dunginess " (the Point Santa Cruz of Quimper's chart), because of a fancied reseml)lance to Dun- giness in the British Channel. AMien he took possession on the fourth of June he applied the title "New Georgia" to all the coast above latitude 30° 2(1', which was certainly cutting California off very short above San Francisco Bay. This ceremony amoinited to nothing more than a celebration of the King's birthday, since, un- der the Nootka Convention, neither party could ac(juire territorial rights by any such proceeding, a farce vvhich Perez, Ileceta, Bo- dega and Captain Cook had enacted years before at various places. As he emerged horn Puget Sound and sailed northward into the Canal del Rosario, which he re-christened " Gulf of Georgia," he fell in with the two Spanish vessels, Su^t/ and Mexicana^ whose })resence there has already been mentioned. Galiano and Valdez had entered the Straits of Fuca on the fourth of June, and had sur- veyed as far north as Tejada (Texada) Island. AVhen the S[)auish and English fleets encountered each other there folloned an inter- change of courtesies, leading to an agreement to unite their labors. For about three weeks they explored in company, but then the pride of the Spaniards would not permit them to longer endure the air of superiority assumed by the English connnander, who, when they had explored an inlet, would not accept their report as final, but made a second exploration himself. That his distrust of the Span- ish surveys was unfounded is amply proven by the charts of each 124 mSTOKY OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. after they resiimeil imlej^eiident action. The Spanish maps were as accurate in detail a< those of Vancouver, and even moi'e so, since they note<l the entrance t<» Fra-^er Rivei", called "Rio Blancho," the existence of which tlie Enirlishman denied. Galiano and Valdez continued their explorations northward, entered the Pacific on the twenty-thinl of ^Vuirust, 1»y a passage at the north end of Vancouver Island, antl returned tit Xootka, having made the first complete cir- cumnavigati(vn of the Island. When the vesseLs parted company, Vancouver continued north - \tard, in advance of the Spaniards, and entered the ocean through Queen Charlotte's Sound, where the Chatham gi'oundetl on the rocks, but was sjifely put afloat again. The long channel al>ove the Gulf of Gei^rj^ia he called "Johnstone's Strait," after one of his lieutenants, and tlie names now l>orne by the most important objects in that region were also best«»wed by him, such as " Burrard Canal," "Bute Canal," " Broughton Archipelago," "Knight's Canal," " Smith's Inlet," " Rivers Canal," etc. The fact that Vancouver's report was published several yeai-s 1)efore that of Galiano and Valdez's, and that this region was subse([uently settled by English speaking people, accounts for the surAnval of the English nomen- clature. He continued his explorations as far north as latitude 52** IS', when he tume«l about and sailed foi* Nootka Sound, reaching that port on the twentv-eiirhth of Auijust. Here he found the store ship Dcrdalns, which had been sent out from England with supplies and fresh instmctions for his guidance in arranging affaii-s at Nootka. There he remained for more than a month, engaged in the fulfill- ment oi' the diplomatic purposes of his visit. ANTiile awaiting Vancouver's arrival. Quadra had not l>een idle, but had been gathering evidence from the Indians and ti-aders, and was especial^v fortunate in securing a statement of the events of 1788-9 at Nootka, signed by Gray, Viana (then commanding a Por- tuiiuese vessel ), and Insrraham, the latter beiuij now the commander of the trading vessel Hope. All three of these were officei"s of ves- sels which were present at Nootka during the occuiTence of the dis- puted events. They testified that the Englishmen ha<i not been dispossessed of any lands and buildings whatever; that the only pretense to a settlement by them was the temporaiy occupation of a small piece of gi'oupd by Meare.? in 1788, while he was building PUGET SOUND AND COLUMBIA KIVKIt DISCOVEKP:!). 125 the Northwest America^ which, with the hut the \Norkinen had occupied, was abandoned when thac work was completed; also, that all this was done under the Fortuiruese tlai,', the scliiK)ner being launchwl and sent out upon a cruise under the same ensign. Accord- ing to the treaty, it will he rememl)ere<l, all buildings and tracts of land of which the subjects of Ills Britannic Majesty had been dis- jKtssessed by a 8i»anish oflicer, were to be restored. For that pur- |M»se Vancouver hsul come, expecting, of course, to have Nootka surrendered; l>ut he was met l)y (Quadra with proofs showing that, according to the terms of the treaty, there was nothing to be sur- rendered. Vanccmver would listen to nothing l)Ut a transfer of the port, though he was unalde to show any precise stipulation to that efFeit in the treaty. Qua<lra offered to give up Nootka if Vancou- ver w<tuhl recofjnize all the coast south of Kuca Straits a-s exclusively Spanish; or he offered to surrender absolutely the small parcel of land on which Meares' cal)in had stood and to station himself at the new port in the Straits of Kuca until a <lecisio)i on the (piestion could be had from Europe. X'ancouver would agree to no ])ropo- sitions whatever. lie came, he said, to receive an unconditional surrender of the port, and if Qmidra woidd not c«>nsent to make it he would dei)art. It was finally decided that the present status should be maintained and the two connnissioners should submit the facts to their respective governments. Conseipiently, Vancouver dis])atche<l two messengers to England, one via China, on a Portu- guese trading vessel, and one on a Spanish vessel to Mexico and thence to Einope. Qinidra returneil to Monterey, stopping on the way at Nunez Gaona, to order Fiihilgo to abandon the new settle- ment there and proceed to Nootka and assume command of that jioi-t. It was f(»rtunate for Quadra that he was as cautious as has been shown, for a few weeks later ro\al orders were received to suiTender Nootka u])on no consideration whatever. The personal relations of the connnissioners were most cordial, and before they left they agreed to name the large island after themselves, and it was accordingly entered upon l>oth the Spanish and English charts as the " Island of Vancouver and Quadra." In after yeai*s, owing to plainly apparent causes, the latter 's name was di'opped from the title. The indenniity to be paid by Sj>ain to Meares and his asso- ciates was finally fixe<l at !S'21(),()«»(), less than one-third of the i l'2(i HISTOHY OF WILLAMKTTE VALLET. amount clainu'd, but imicli moiv than tlu* actual damag<e siilBFerwl. When lie had coniluded his ueifotiatiMns. Vauti^iiver, amietl with a rouyh chart of the Columbia's mouth, which Grav had left at Nootka, sailed southward witli his fleet, now increa?s*-il t<» three vessels. On the eighteenth of ()ct«»l»er the Z^A^t/^i/u^. c«immaniled by Lieutenant \\'hidby, entere«l Buliinch's, or (iray's llarlior, to make a thorough examination, while her two consorts c«>utinue4l to the mouth of the Cohunbia. On the nu»ming of the nineteenth the Clialliani and Discovery attemptnl the juissjige of the l»ar, the former eiossing safely, l>ut the latter hauling off f«»r fear there was not a suftieient dej)tli of water. This circumstanct' le«l Vancouver to record in his journal that his "former opinion of tlus |x»it iK-ing inaccessible to vessels of oiu' ])Uitlien wjis now fully ci>nfimied. with this exception, that in very tine weather, with m«»ler:Ue win«is, and a smooth sea, vessels not exceeilinir four hundreil t<»us miirht, s«.i far JUS we \vere able to iudije, ijain admittance." It wif while Iviuir at anchor (tff the bar that he gaine<l a view of a "high. n»und snow- mountain " far up the stream, which he nameil " Mount St. Helens." in honoi' of his Kritannic Majesty's amba.viadur at the court of Madrid. The iirst sound that salute<l the comniamler «»f the Chatliam upon crossing the bar was the report of a cannon, which was an- swered in a similar manner by Lieutenant Bniughton. It came from a Bristol brig called i\\e Jenny, hing in a shfltereil bay within the month of the stream, \vhich has ever since l»een kno\vn as " Baker's Bay," in lionor of the captain of tliat little craft. This made the second vessel to enter the river l»efore these official repre- sentatives of Great Britain undei-took to explore it. The Chaiham lay in the river several days, during w hich time Brought(»n ascendeil the stream in a l)oat some one lumdretl and twenty miles, as far as a point which he named in honor of the c(»mmander of tl. - exjjedi- tion, being the same upon which Fort Vancouver was afterwanl built by the Hudson's Bay Company. The high snow-crownetl peak rising a))Ove the Cascades to the ea^t he calle*l '* Mount H«kk1." During his stay he formally " took possesc<ion of the river and the country in its vicinity in his Britannic ^lajest^'s name. haWng ever)' reason to believe that the subjects of no other civilizeil nation or state liJid ever entered this river liefore." The chising p»rtion of I'UOKT SOUiVI) AND COLUMBIA RIVKK DIHCOVEUKl). 127 this sentence sounds strangely from one who hud in his possession !it the time he jienned it the rough cliart ma<h* Ity ^^ray, which had lieen the cause of his being there at all. It is exidaincd l>y saying that he affected to consi<ler the broad estuary near the mouth of tlie stream as no portion (tf the river, and that in eonse<|uence Gray, though he liad ascended the stream twenty-five miles, had not entered the river propel'. 'I'his strained i-onstruetion England maintained in the after conti-oversy with the liiited States about the rights of discovery. Vancouver wintered at the Hawaiian islands, returning to Xootka in May, 1708, and finding that no news liad been received from Europe, sailed north to continue his examination of the coast from the point he had reached the year before. lie spent tiie sum- mer in this work, making, with tlie aid <»f Caannu'io's jnevious chart, (juite an accurate map of the coast. Erom latitude 58° 80' to 57" he called the country "New Cornwall;" south of that to near (mtrgia he named it "New Hanover," taking formal and ceremo- nious possession of it all in the name of King George. Upon his return tt> Nootka in October, he found that no instructions had ar- rived fi'om home, and he sailed for California. The Spaniards still remained in (piiet possession of the dis])uted 2)oi*t. Quite a number of trading vessels \vere on the coast that season, but the peculiar conunercial character of their voyages prevented them fi'om accom- plishing anything of geographical or historical value. In April, 171>8, the Mexican Viceroy, Revilla-Gigedo, sent a full report of the events and status of affairs at Nootka to the home government, accompanied by recommendations for the future course of Spain. These were to the effect that recent explorations had prac- tically demonsti'ated that no Northwest Passage existed, unless, in- deed, it was found by way of the Columbia River, («• Entrada de Ileceta, .ind consequently that the trouble and expense of maintain- ing a station as far north as Nootka was. unnecessary for the pro- tection of Spanish interests. He advise<l that the Ccdumbia be ex- plored and occupied, if found to connect with the Atlantic or with New Mexico; otherwise he advised the sti'engthening of the north- ernmost stations in California, the occupation of Bodega Bay, and any other desirable harbor which might be found north of that [)oint. He prepared to dispatcli two vessels to surve}' the Colum- 128 HIKTOUY OK WILLAMKTTK VALl.KY. hia in the spring of 1704, but for some reason tlie [)roject was abiindonrd. Early that year word was received fr()ni Spain that the ]H)ints in dispute liad been setth'd. Quadra died in March, and (len. Jose Manual d Alava was !ij)pointed his successor, and sent to Nootka with the understanding that his instructions would follow him. Captain Vancouver again visited the northern coast in the spring of 17i>4, and extended his ex})lorations as far as the head of Cook's Inlet, becoming convinced that no passage whatever connected the Pacific with the Atlantic or any of the l»ays or seas leading off from it. lie then went to Nootka, arriving on the second of September, where he found Alava, the Sj)anisli counnissioner. Neither was aAvare of the terms of settlement, so they enjoyed each other's hos- pitalities and awaited instructions. No orders having been received by the sixteenth the commissioners sailed for Monterey, where Al- ava soon afterwards ivceived his instructions. These were to the effect that an amicable settlement had be'en arrived at, and that England had ai)pointed a new conmiissioner. Upon receipt of this intelligence A'ancouver at once set sail for England, ^vhere he ar- rived in October, 1795. His narrative of his four years' voyag*' and explorations, the most complete and important ever issued up to that time, Avas published in 1798, previous to which the great explorer died. The settlement spoken of was the one signed at Madrid by the representatives of Spain and England, on the eleventh of January, 1794. The tide of European politics had so ,'uni'xi that it was then the best policy of both England and Spain to form an alliance, hence the nuitual concessions in this agreem*. ut. The treaty pro- vided that commissioners of both nations should meet at Nootka, and that formal possession of the tract claimed l)y Meares be given to the representative of England by the Spanish commissioner. It continued in the following explicit language: — Then the British officer shall unfurl the British flag over the land thus restored as a sign of possession, and after these formalities the officers of the two crowns shall retire respectively their people from the said port of Nootka. And their said majesties have furthermore agreed that the subjects of both nations shall be free to frequent the said port as may be convenient, and to erect there temporary buildings for their accommodation during their residence on such occasions. But neither of the two parties shall make in said port any permanent establishment, or claim there any right of sovereignty or territorial dominion to the exclusion of the other. And to PUGEX'80UND AND COLUMBIA KIVKR DISCOVKRKl). 120 their oaid majesties will aid each other to maintain their ^ubjectH in free iicceHH to the said port of Nootlia againut whatever other nation may att«mpt to establisli there any sovereignty or dominion. This solemn farce was actually enactnl theiv on the twenty-third of March, 1795, ]>y General Alava on th«' |>art <»f Spain, and Lieu- tenant Thomas Pierce as representative of Great Britain. Eveiy- thing portable was then embarked on tlie Spanish vessels, which sailed away and left Nootka again in th<' soh' possessi<jn of the natives. From that day to this no whitf settlement has been at- tempted at that historical port. English historians, jind nniny others writing, like them, from incomplete data, have assertt^d that the port of Nootka was surrendered to England by the Sjtaniards; Imt such the above (piotation from the treaty shows not to have been the case. Only the small patch of ground claimwl by Meares to have been purchased from Ma(iuinna was f(jrmall}- ti'ansferred ; and Eng- land was as firmly bound as Spain not to make any future settle- ment at that point, while both were at liWrt}- to occupy any other points they might see fit. Their interests in Europe, however, were 80 closely linked for the next few years that neither felt it necessary to attempt any settlements on the upjjer Pacific Coast as a safeguard against the other. No other nation attemptetl t<^> plant a colony here, and thus the matter stood for nearly a score of years, when the question of ownership was raised by a new claimant — the United States. Traders continued to carry on the fur lousiness as Ijefore, but their operations were of little historical importance. CHAPTER IX. OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. Oi'tjanlsation of the Nviihioest Company of Montreal Mackenzie^ s Journey to the Arctic Ocean — His Trip to the Pacific in 1793 — Dis- covery and Naming of Frnner River — T. eaty of 179^. Opens a West- ern Field for American Tracers — Confliotini/ Claims of Various Nations at the Beginning of the Present Century—Spain Reconveys Louisiana to France in 1800 — Thomas Jefferson'' s Efforts to have the Unknown Region Explored — Louisiana Purchased hy the United States — The Lewis and Clarke Expedition — They Winter loith the Mandan Lndians — Ascend the Missouri — Cross to Clarke^s Fork — Reach the Nl~ Perces — Descend Clearwater, Lewis [Snake) and Columbia Rivers to the L^aoific — Winter at Fort Clatsop — The Mult- nomah, or Willamette, River — The Walla Walla, Cayuse and Net Perce Indians — Lewis and Clarke Descend the Yellowstone and Missouri — Effect of their Great Journey — Anxiety of irreat Britain — Fort Eraser Established in New Caledoihior — Fort Henry Built on Snake River. IT ha.s been related how the early French explorers pushed their way gradually westward, until, in 1743, the Verendryes pene- trated to the heart of the ll«>cky Mountains, and how, with the con- (piest of Canada by the English, these explorations suddenly cesised. Thirty years elapsed before they were again rv^s'uued by sul)jects of the new rnlei's of ( 'anada, except in the instance of Captain Carver, whose j)retentions claims have already been considered. Meanwhile, the American Colonies had fought and gained the War of Inde- pendence, and, as a result, P^ngland was dt^^rived of all her posses- sions south of the great chain of lakes. France had sold Louisiana to Spain, as has l>een related, which gave that nation, in conjunction with her California possessions, propi-ietary claim to the whole OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. 131 country Ipng between the Mississippi and the Pacific, and extend- ing indefinitely northward. How extensive that region was, or what it contained, no one knew, and the Spanish owners were not inquisitive enough to find out. England was cut off from it except in the region lying north of Minnesota, certainly not a very in\'iting field for exploration ; and the young Republic was too busy setting its government in good running order to engage in explorations of new territories. When, at last, westward journeys were again undertaken, it was solely l)y private enterprise in the interests of trade. A number of Montreal fur traders pushed a^. fai* westward as the Athabasca and Saskatchewan as early as 1775, and carried on an independent trade wnth the natives. Competitit)n with the Hud- son's Bay Company became too heavy for them indi' Ithially, and in 1784 they combined together as the Northwest (Joinpany of Mon- treal. Thus strengthened, and all its agents l)ein^ interested part- ners, it prospered wonderfully and became, in a few years, a most powerful organization. In 17H8 the station which iiad been estab- lished ten years before on Athabasca River was removed to Lake Athabasca, some twelve hundred miles northwest of Lake Superioi-, and called " Fort Chipewyan," and this became the great western headquaiters of the company. Traders covered the whole country east of the Rocky Mountains almost to the Arctic. This advance post wjis under the charge of Alexander Macken- zie, a partner in the Northwest Company, who made a journey to the north in 1789, discovered the Mackenzie River, and followed it from its source in (xreat Slave Lake to where it discharges its icy waters into the Arctic Ocean. By this journey the cluu'acter and extent of the continent to the northwest was ascertained, aa well as the fact that there existed no passage between the Atlantic and Pacific south of the great northern sea. In 1791 he started with a small l)arty upon a western tri]), intent upon reacliing the Pacific. Fol- lowing up Peace River to the base of the Kocky Mountains, he (tamped there for the winter, and in the spring continued his journey «long the course of that stream and came upon the Fr.'iser River, down which he passed in canoes a distance oi two huiubvd and fifty miles. To this stream he applied the Indian title of "Tacoutchee- Tiissee," a nan)e somewhat similar to that which the navigators hud I3y HI8T0KY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. a few years before applied to the Straits of Fuca. He finally abandoned the river and struck directly westward, reaching the coast at the North Bentinck Arm, only a short time after it had been explored by Vancouver's fleet. When he learned upon his return that the mouth of the Columbia had been discovered, he supposed that the large river which he had followed so far south- ward must 1)6 that great stream; and so it was considered to be until twenty years later, when Simon Fraser, a representative of the same fur company, descended it to its mouth in the Gulf of Georgia, and ascertained its true character. As Mackenzie's name was aL v ady applied to a large river, this stream wa^ then christened " Fraser Kiver." Tliese various sea and land expeditions had proved three very, important facts: first, that there was no water passage for vessels across the continent; second, that by following the courses of streams and lakes the overland journey could be nearly accom- })lished in ])oat8; third, that this vast imexplored region abounded in fur-bearing animals, a fact which led, in a few years, to its occu- pation by the rival fur traders, both English and American. At this time the Spanish chiim of Louisiana clouded the whole region west of the Mississippi, and though its limits were undefined, it extended indefinitely into the unknown region lying north of Mexico and California. The Americans were especially hampered in their trading operations on the frontier. The Mississippi formed a defi- nite and recognized western boundery to the territory of the United States, and the line of forts along the south side of the chain of great lakes were still held by Great Britain, notwithstanding they should have been sm-rendered under the treaty of 1788. When that convention was f<jrmed, the rejiresentatives of England endeav- ored to have the Alleghanies fixed as the western limit of the new nation, but the American commissioners insisted that as British colonies the states had j)reviously exercised jurisdiction as far west tis the Mississippi, and the safety ;)f the Republic re<piii"ed that she still continue to do so; and they carried their point. By a special treaty made in 1794, England surrenderetl possession of the lake posts, and the two rations agreed that both should have unrestricted intercourse and trade in the great western regi(ui. From that time American traders extended their operations fujluer OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. 133 westward. The Hudson's Bay Company also began to invade the field occupied by its great rival, the Northwest Company of Montreal. At the beginning of the nineteenth century the territorial claims of the various nations on the Pacific Coast weve exceedingly con- flicting. The claim of Russia to Alaska was recognized as valid, having been established both by discovery and occupation; though as yet no definite southern limit was fixed. Spain's claim to Cali- fornia was also undisputed, extending to the forty-second parallel. Between these two both England and Spain claimed title by right of discovery only, since by the Nootka convention both had agreed to l". • no claim whatever upon the actual or asserted occupation of ti u representatives or sulgects at Nootka Sound. The United States, also, by reason oi Gray's discovery of the Columbia, had laul a foundation for a claim to the whole region drained by that mighty river, as yet unasserted, but which was pressed with nuich vigor and final partial success a few years later. Besides these dis- covery rights, the J^ouisiana Province, which France hs^d transferred to Spain in 176!2, was construed by its possessor, or, more accu- rately speaking, its technical claimant, to cover the whole region west of the Mississijjpi not claimed by the same nation as portions of Mexico and California. This title was reconveyed to France in the year 1H''0, thus putting that mition again into the field as a claimant ^ i t- jj'itory in the western portion of North America. It 1'' 1 ' . ■ . uiend)ered that John Ledyard, who had })een one of Captain C- j'< ^ nmen, undertook to interest American and French capitalists in ^ <.^ '^acific fur trade, soon after the return of that ex- pedition to England. At that time Thomas Jefferson was the rep- resentative of the I'nited States at the Court of Versailles, and he became deeply interested in this great western region. Hj naturally j)referred that his own country shoujd fall h.eir to such a magnifi- cent inheritance; but more than a decade [)ji8sed l)efore the States had p'>»fected their government and regulated those national affairs requi ir.v immediate and careful consideration, and during that time ii v ". • 'die lo think of furthei accessions of territory. How- ever, in 1792, he proposed to the American Philosophical Society that a subscription be raised for the purpose of engaging some com- petent person to explore the country lying between the Mississippi \u U18T0RY OF WILLAMKTTK VAI.LKY. River and Pacific Ocean, " by Jiacencling the MisHouri, crossing the Stony Mountains, and descending the nearest river to the Pacific." His suggestion was acted upon, and the position having been eagerly solicited by Lieutenant Meriwether Lewis, a Virginian, that gentle- man was selected at the recommendation of Mr. Jefferson. His traveling companion was Mr. Andre Michaux, a distinguished French botanist, then living in the United States in the employ of his govti'nment. When they had proceeded as far as Kentucky, Mr. Michaux was recalled by tl^ French Minister, and the expedi- tion was abandoned. Soon after France again acquire itle to Louisiana, Napoleon i-ecognized the fact that it would only he a source of annoyance and expense to the nation. His ambitious designs in Europe arrayed England and other po\verful nations in hostility to France, and to avoid the necessity of having to provide for the protection of vast territorial possessions, as well as to place in the field an active and now powerful rival to England, be opened secret negotiations for the tr.msfer of the whole Pro\'ince to the LTnited States. Mr. Jef- ferson was then President, and grasped eagerly the o[)portunity to realize his long- cherished desire, and by so doing render his admin- istration one to be forever rememl)ered l)y his countrymen. Even before the treaty was concluded, he began to i)ut his plan of oper- ations into effect; and on the eighteenth of January, 1803, lie sub- mitted to Congress a special message on the Indian (piestion, in which he incorporated a suggestion that an official expedition be dispatched u})on the same journey as the private one woidd have accomplished ten ye'ars before, had it not been abandoned. Con- gress approved the idea and made an ample appropriation to carry it into effect. Lewis was then acting in the capacity of private sec- retar}' to tlie President, and once more solicited the direction of the enterprise. In tliis he was again successful. He held at that time the rank of captain, and having selected AVilliam Clarke as his asso- ciate, tliat gentleman also received a captain's commission. In the instructions drawn up for the guidance of the party, tlie Presiddit says: "The o])ject of your mission is to explore the Missoiu'i River, and such principal streams of it, as, by its course and communication with the waters of the Pacific Ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregon, Colorado, or any other river, may offer the OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE I'ACIFK' 185 most direct aud practicable water coinimiiiication across the conti- nent, for the i)urpo8es of commerce." They were directed to ac- quire as intimate a knowledge as possible of the extent and number of Indian tril)es, their manners, customs and degree of civilization, and to report fully upon the topography, the character of the soil, the natural products, the animal life and minerals, as well as to as- certain by scientific observations and inquiry as much as possible about the climate, and to impiire especially into the fur trade and the needs of commerce. Since Louisiana had not yet been formally conveyed to the United States, the instructitms contained a para- graph saying: " Your mission has been communicated to the min- isters here from P^ ranee, Spain and (Ireat Britain, and through them to their governments; and such assurances g: -"■<y them as to its ob- jects, as we trust will satisfy them,. The country of Louisiana hav- ing been ceded by Spain to France, the passport you have from the minister of Fi-ance, the representative of the present sovereign of the country, will be a protection with all its subjects; and that from the minister of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any traders of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet." The French passport w{\s rendered needless by the receipt of the joyful intelligence a few days before they started that Louisiana had been formally ceded to the L^nited States. Lewis left Washington on the fifth of July, 1808, and was joined by Clarke at Louisville. Having selected the men to compose tlu'ir party, they went into camp near St. Louis and remained until spring. The final start was made on the fourteenth of May, 1 H04, the part}' consisting of Captain Meriwether Lewis, Captain William Clai'ke, nine young men fi'om Kentucky, fourteen soldiers, two F'l'ench Canadian water- men, of the class called "voyageurs" among the fur traders, an in- terpreter ♦ind huntei" and a negro servant of Captain Clarke. There were, also, a number of assistants who accompanied the party as far as the Mandan country. The Missouri river was ascended as far as the region occupied by tlie Mandan Indians, with whom they remain^ all winter, learning mucli from tiieii" hosts of the geogra- phy of the surrounding countiy as well as its native inhabitants. While there they negotiated a treaty of peace and friendship between the Mandans and Ricarees, between whom hostilities had existed for a long time. 18<> HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLKV. The westwaiii journey was resumed iu the spring of 1805. They still followetl up the Missouri, of whose coui'se, tri1>utaries and the great falls they had received very minute and accurate information fi'oni their Mandan fi'iends. Passing the mouth of the Yellowstone, which name they recoiil as being but a translation of "Ro<"he Jaune," the title given it by the French- Canadian trappei"s who had already visited it, they continued up the Missouri, pjissed the castellate<l rocks and the great falls and cascades, ascended through the mighty canyon, anil reached the headwaters of the stream, crossed the Rocky Mountain divide and came upon the stream variously known along its course as *• Deer Lodge," " Hellgate," " BitteiToot," " Clarke's Fork of the Columbia " and " Pend d'Oreille." l^pon this they bestowed the name " Clarke's River," and so it should l)e calleil from its source in the Rocky Mountains to where it unites with the main stream in British Columbiij, From this river the advance party under Clarke crossed the Bitterr-jot Mountains by the Lolo trail, suffering intensely from cold and hunger, and on the twentieth of September reacheil a village of Nez Perce Indians, situated on a plain about fifteen miles fi'om the south fork of Clearwater River, where they were receivetl with great hospitality. This lii-st pjissage of the mountains V\v representatives of the Uniteti States and their warm reception by the Indians contrast strongl> with a scene witnessed by this same Lolo trail seventy-two yeai-s later when Howard's army hotly i)ursued Chief Joseph and his little l>and of hostile Nez Perces, who were fleeing before the avengei-s fi'om the scene of their many bloody massacres. The almost famished men partook of such quantities of the food liberally providetl by theii" savage hosts that man}" of them l>ecame ill, among them being Captain Clarke, who was unable to continue the journey until the second day. He then went to the village of Twisted -hair, the chief, situated on an island in the strejmi men- tioned. To the river he gave the name " Koos-koas-kee," errone- ously supposing it to be its Indian title. The probabilities are that the Nez Perces, in trying to inform Captain Clarke that this river flowed into a still larger one, the one variously known sus " Lewis," " Sahaptin " or " Snake," used the words " Koots-kootv'»-kee," mean- ing " This is the smaller," and were understood to have meant that as the name of the stream. The Nez Perce name is " Kaih-kaih- OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. 137 koosh," signifying "Cleanvater," the title it is generally known by. Having lieen united, the two parties a few days later journeyed on down the Clearwater. Concerning their deplorable condition and their method of traveling the journal says: " Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken very ill last evening, and to-day he could scarcely sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme weakness and pain, were forced to lie down alongside of the road. * * * The weather was very hot and oppressive to the party, most of whom are now complaining of sickness. Our situation, indeed, rendered it neces- sary to husband our remaining strength, and it was determined to proceed down the river in canoes. Captain Clarke, therefore, set out with Twisted-hair, and two young men, in quest of timber for canoes. * * * Having resolved to go down to some spot calculated for building canoes, we set out early this morning and pi'oceedetl five miles, and encamped on the low ground on the south, opposite the forks of the river." The canoes being constructed, they embarked, in the month of October, on their journey down the Clear- water and connecting streams, for the Pacific, leaving what remained of their horses in charge of the friendly Nez Perces. They had for some time lieen subsisting upon roots, fish, horse-meat and an occa- sional deer, crow, or wolf, but having left their horses behind them, their resort, when out of other food, now became the wolfish dogs they purchased fi'om the Indians. Upon reaching Snake River, which was named in honor of Captain LeAvis, the canoes were turned down that stream, which they followed to the Columbia, naming the Tukannon River " Kim- so-emim," a title derived fi'om the Indians, and upon the Palouse l)e8towing the name ''Drewyer," in honor of the hunter of the party. They then followed down the Columbia, passing a number of rapids, and arrived at the Cascades on the twenty-first of October. A portage was made of all their effects and a portion of the canoes, the remainder making the perilous descent of the Cascades in safety. The mouth of the Willamette was passed without the addition of so large a stream being noticed. Cape Disappointment was reached November fifteenth, and the eyes of the weary travelei-s were gladdened with a sight of the great ocean which had been their goal for more than a year. The season of winter rains having set in, 138 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. they were soon driven by high water from the low land on the north bank of the stream, eleven miles above the cape, which thej- had selecteil for their winter residence. They then left the Chin- ooks, crosseil the river, and built a habitation on the high land on the south side oi the stream, which they called " Fort Clatsop," in honor of the Indians which iuhal>ited that reijion. Here thev spent the winter, making occasional short excursions along the coast. The departure for home was delayed with the hope that some trading vessel might appear, from Aviiich sadly-neeiled supplies could be oV)tained, but being disappointed in this they loadetl their canoes, and on Mai'ch 23, 180(i, took final leave of Fort Clat.*op. Before going they presented the chiefs of the Chinooks and Clatsops ^^'ith certificates of kind and hosj3ital)le treatment, and circulatetl among the natives several papers, posting a copy on the wall of the abandone<l fort, which read as follows: "The o]>ject of this last Is that through the metlium of some civilized person, who may see the same, it may V»e made known tt> the world, that the part^-, con- sisting of the pei-sous whose names are hereunto annexed, and who were sent out V»y the Government of the United States to explore the interior of the continent of North xVmerica, did penetrate the same by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivei-s, to the dis- charge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on the fourteenth day of November, 1805, and departetl the twentA"- third day of ^larch, 18()<% on their return to the UnitKl States by the same route by which they had comv out," T«-> this was appended a list of the mend>ers of the expedition. One of these copies was handed by an Indian the following year to Captain Hall, an Ameri- can fur trailer, whose vessel, the Lydia, had entere<l the Columbia, by w-hom it was taken to China and thence to the United States: thus, even had tne j tarty perished on the return j«>urney, evidence of the completitm of theu' task was not wanting. Upon taking an invoice of their possessions })efore starting up^»u the ret\n-n, the\ found that their gooils available for traffic with the Indians consisted of six blue robes, one scarlet rol)e, one Unitetl States artillery hat and coat, five robes made frt>m the national ensign, and a few old clothes trimmed \nth ribbon. Upon these must they depend for pm*chasmg pro\'isions and horses, and for v^nnning the hearts of stublwm chiefs. They proceeded up the OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC. 139 south bank of the stream, until they came unexiiectedly upon a large river flowing into it from the south. On an island near its mouth, knoAVTi to the early trappei^s as '* Wapatoo," and now called "Sauvne's Island," they came u[)on an Indian village, where they were refused a suppl}' of food. To impress them with his jiower, Captain Clarke entered one of their habitations and cast a few sulphur matches into the fire. The savages were frightened at the blue flame, and looked upon the strange visitor as a great medicine man. They implored him to extinguish the " evil fire," and l)rought all the food he desired. The name of the Indian village was " Mult- nomah," but Captain Clarke understood the name to apply to the river, of whose coui-se he made careful incpiiry. Ujion the map of this expedition the " Multnomah " is indicated as extending south- ward and eastward into California and Nevada, and the Indians who reside<l along the strt'ams that flow fi'om southeastern Oregon into the Snake, are represented as li\"ing <»n the upper branches of the Multnomah. The true Indian name of the river and valley is " Wallamet," which has been corrupted to " Willamette " by those who conceived the idea that it was of French origin. The confusion between Indian, French and English names in this region has resulted in many very peculiar and ridiculous appellations. ^Vt the mouth of the Lapage River, the stream later named "John Day," in memory of the bold hunter of the Astor party, who met such a tragic fate, the canoes were abandoned, and the party proceeded up the Columbia on foot, packing their baggage upon the backs of a few horses purchased from the natives. Cross- ing the Umatilla, which they called " You-ma-lolam," they arrived at the mouth of the Walla Walla on the twenty-seventh of April, Yellept, the Walla Walla chief, was a man of unusual capacit}' and jDower, and extended to them the most cordial and bountiful hospi- tality they had enjoyed since leaving the aln)des of civilization. How different would have been the reception extended them could the old chief have gazetl into the future Avith prophetic eye, and seen his great successor, Peo-peo-mux-mux, killed while unjustly a prisoner by membere of the same race and tribe to Avhich these white guests belonged! It Is related of Yellej)t that in after years, having seen the last of five noble sons perish in battle or by the hand of disease, he called together the tribe, and throwing himself 140 HIvSTOHY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. upon the body of his hist son, sternly hade them bury him with his dead. With loud lamentations and heart-bn»ken s<»b5 they did as he commanded, and ])urieil alive the great chief they both loved and feared. This vvaa the man who e.vtended hi* hf»>pitalities to Lewis and Clarke, and because of the imp«jrtaiit p:irt the Walla Wallas and Cayuses played in the after hLstorj- of thi« region, the following account given ]>y those gentlemen of their t-ntertainers is presented. Their journal says: — Immediately upon our arrival, Yellept, who proved to be a man of much influ- ence, not only in his own, but in the neighboring nation-^. coIk«<«d the inhabitants and, after having made a harangue, the purport of which 'wai> to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, set them an example, by brineini; hinif>elf an amifiil of wood and a platter containing three roastetl mullets. They immediately a.s!i*-nted to one part, at least, of the recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plain>i. We then purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on «hcKt allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indiana retired imiae- diately on our request, and, indeed, uniformly eondurted themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which are very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at present they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing from one to three pounds. » ♦ * Monday, twenty-eighth, we purchased ten dogs. While this trade was carrying on by our men. Yellept brought a line white horse and presented him to Captain Clarke, exprcsifing at the same time a wish to have. a kettle; but on being informed that we had already dis- posed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would Ije c-ontent with any prej*- ent we should make in return. Captain Clarke, therefore, gave his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a desire, adding one hundred balls, some pow- der, and other small articles, with which he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to depart, and requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of crossing the river. But he would not listen to any proposal of leaving the village. He wished us to remain two or three days; but would not let us go to-day. for he had already sent to invite his neighbors, the Chininapooe (Cayuses , to come down this evening and join his people in a dance for our amusement. We urged, in vain, that by setting out sooner we would the earlier return with the articles they desired ; for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. We at length mentioned that, as there was no wind, it was now the best time to cross the river, and would merely take the horses over and return to sleep at their village. To this he assented, and then we crossed with our horses, and having hobbied them, returned to their camp. Fortunately there was among these WollawoUah* a prisoner, Ix-longing to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the Multnomah, and visiting occasionally the heads of the WoIlawoUah creek. Our Shoshonee woman, Bucajaweah, though she belonged to a tribe near the Mifeouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner, and by their means we were able to explain our- selves to the Indians, and answer all their inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought several sick persons for whom they requested our assistance. We splintered the broken arm of one, gave scoie relief to another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and administered what we thought beneficial for ulcers and eruptions of the skin, on various parts of the body, which are very conmiou disorders among them. But our most valuable medldne was eye-water, which we OVEKLAND JOURNEYS TO THK PACIFIC. 141 distributed, and which, indeed, they required very much ; the complaint of the eyes, occasioned by living on the water, and increased by the Hne sand of the plains, being now universal. A little before sunset, the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men and a few women, came to the village, and joining the WoUawollahs, who were about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle round our tamp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed to dance, which they did for about an hour, to the tune of the violin. They then requested to see the Indians dance. With this they readily complied, and the whole assenil)lage, amounting, with the women and children of the village, to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. The exercise was not, indeed, very graceful, for the greater part of them were formed into a solid column, round a kind of hollow square, stood on the same place, and merely jumped up at intervals, to keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active warriors ent«red tlie square and danceil round it sidewise, and some of our men joined in the dance, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. The dance continuetl till ten o'clock the next morning. In tlie course of the day we gave small medals to two inferior chiefs, each of whom made us a present of a tine horse. We were in a |)oor condition to make an aderjuate acknowledgement for this kindness, but gave several articles, among which was a pistol, with some hundred rounds of ammunition. We have, iudeetl, been treated by these people with an unusual degree of kindness and civility. * * * We may, indeed, justly affirm that of all the Indians whom we have met since leaving tlie United States, the WoUawollahs were the most hospitable, honest and sincere. Bidding adieu to these hospitable people, they left the Colum- bia oil the twenty-ninth of April and followed eastward what is known as the " Nez Perce Trail." Tliey went up the Touchet, called by them " AVhite Stallion," because of the present Yellept had matle to Captain Clarke, the Patet and Pataha and down the Alpowa to Snake river, which they crossed and followed up the north side of ClearNvater until they reached the village of Twisted- hair, where had been left their horses the fall before. The Lolo trail was not }et free from snow, and for six weeks they resided among the Nez Perces, a tribe closely ^voven into the history of this region. (Jf them and the intercourse held with them the fall before, the jt)urnal says: — The Chopunnish, or Pierce-nosed, nation, wlio reside on the Kooskooske an?^ Lewis' Rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men ; the women are small, with good features, and generally handsome, though the complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The buffalo or elk skin robe decorated with lieads, sea-shells (chiefly mother-of-pearl), attached to an otter-ekin collar, and hung in the hair, which falls in front in two queues ; feathers, paint of difTerent kinds (principally white, green and light blue), all of which they find in their own countrj' ; these are the chief ornaments they use. In winter they wear a short shirt of dres.sed skins, long painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass around tlie neck. The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt of argaliaor ibex skin, reaching down to the ankles without a girdle ; to this are lied little pieces of brass and sheila, and other small articles: but the bead is not at 142 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLEY. all ornamented. The drens of the female is, indeed, more modest, and more studi- ously HO, tlian any we have observed, though the other sex is careless of the inde- licacy of txposure. Tlie Chopunnlsli have very few amusements, for their life is painful ami laiiorii.us; and all tlieir exertions are necessary to earn even their pre- carious suhsistoncc. During the summer and autunm they are busily occupied in tisliing for salmon, undcollectiufr their winter store of roots. In the winter they iiunt the (leer on snow-shoes over the plains, and towards spring cross the moun- tains to the Missouri, for the i>uri)ose of tratfldng for buffalo robes. The incon- veniences of that comfortless life are increased by frequent encounters with their enj-niies from the west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, and sonietimt-s the lives of nuiny of the nation. Tliough originally the same people, their dialect varies very perceptil)ly from that of the Tushepaws ; their treatment of us ditl'ereti much from the liind and disinterested services of the Slioslionees (Snalies); tliey are indeed sclHsh and avaricious; they part very reluc- tantly with every article of footi or clotiiing ; and while they expect a recompense for every service, however small, do not concern themselves about reciprocating any presents we may give them. They are generally healthy — the only disorders, which we liave had occasion to renuirli, l)eing of a scrofulous kind, and for these, as well as for the anuisenient of those who are in good health, hot and cold bathing is very coninionly used. 'I'he soil of these prairies is of a light yellow clay, inter- mixed witli small, smooth grass; it is barren, and produces little more than a bearded grass about three inches high, and a prickly pear, of which we now found tiiree si)ecies. It is very evident that these gentlemen were not acquainted with the atti-ibutes of tlie succulent bunch grass, nor of the soil, for those prairies constitute the now celebrated wheat lands of Eastern Ore- gon and Washington and Northern Idaho. They made an unsuccessful attempt to cross the Bitterroot Mountains on the fifteenth of June, but found the trails l^locked with snow. On the thirtieth, however, they safely crosseti. On the fourth of July it was decided to pursue two routes for a dis- tance; accordingly, Cai)tain Lewis, with a portion of the party, crossed the Rocky Moinitains to the Missouri, and follo\\ed dow^n the main stream, exploring the larger tributaries and learning much of the geography of Montana. With the remainder of the party Clarke crossed to the Yellowstone, and descended that stream to its mouth, uniting again with Captain Lewis some distance below that point on the twelfth of August. There stands to the present day on the south bank of the Yellowstone, between the cities of Miles City and Billings, a monument to commemorate the visit of this expedition. It is known as " Pompey's Pillar," and consists of a detached body of yellow sandstone, which rises alu'uptly on three sides to the height of four hundred feet. On the north side, at a place which can be letuihed by claudjering over the heavy blocks the n OVERLAND JOI'KXKYS TO THK I'AriKIC. 143 of sandstone Juokeii down from the IkkIv of the cliff, in a place sheltered from the elements })y an overlianirintr wall <»f rock, the leader carved his autogi'a]th; ami the characters. " William Claike, July 25, 18()<)," can l)e still di.-itinctly trace*!. When again united, the party continued their journey douTi the Missouri, and reache<l St. Louis Septend)('r '2i), 18(><), havinir lieen al»sent nearly two and one-half years. ^ The retiu'u of Lewis and Clarke \va.s the cause «»f threat rejoicinir in the Unite<l States. Mr. Jefferson say>: "Nevci- did a similar event excite more joy throu_irh«>ut the Unit«nl Stat«*s. The hiunbiest of its citizens had taken a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward with- impatience to the information it would furnish. Their anxieties, too, for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of e.xcitement l»y luirubrious rnmor<, circulated from time to time on uncertain authoritie?*, and uncontradicT> d l)y letters, or other direct information, fiom the time they liad left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the river in A]iril of the precediuij; year, • iSOo, until their actual return to St. Louis.** Captain I^ewis was, soon after his return, appointed Governor of Louisiana, with which his journey had rendered him more familiar than any other man except his associate; and Captain Clarke wa.< apjK>inted General of Militia of the same Tei-ritory, and agent for Indian affairs in that viist region he had explored. During a |>eri^Kl of tempoi-ary mental derangement. Captain Lewis died by hi.s own hand, in September, ISO'.), before he had fully comj)lete<l his naiTative of the journey. The history of the expedition was preparetl from his manuscript under the direction of Ca])tain Clarke, and waei first published in 1814. The general details, however, were spread throughout the coimtry immediately upon their return. esjH-cially on the frontier. During their absence other exi)k>riug parties were traversing Louis- iana in various directions in search of information for the govern nient. Lieutenant Pike jwcended the Mississippi to its headwaters in 180."), and the following year journeyetl s(»uthwestward from the mouth of the Missouri to the sources of the Arkansas, Red and Rio Bravo del Norte. At the same time Dun])ar, Hunter and Sil)ley explored Red River and its companion streams. These exploi'ations served to greatly stimulate the fiu- trade carried on 144 HToTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. from St. Louis and IMackinaw, as well as to strengthen the govern- ment in its purpose of adhering to its right to Louisiana. When Great Britain received the oftici il notification mentioned l>y President Jefferson in his letter of instructions to Captain Lewis, which was (piickly followed by intelligence that the region to which it referred had been ceded by France to the United States, much anxiety \vas felt l)y the Government and such of its subjects as were personally interested in the coimtry under consideration. Espec- ially were the Northwest and Hudson's Bay Compaiiies anxious for the future of their interests in that region, more particularly the ft)rmer, Avliose hunters were operating further south and west than those of the rival company. The French claim to Louisiana, founded solely upon technical grounds, had not been a st)urce of nuich uneasiness; but now that it had been transferred to a nation both able and anxious to make an effort to perfect the title by re- ducing the countiy to actual possession, the matter presented an en- tirely different aspect. Naturally, the technical title was not recog- nized in its entirety ; that is, there was a vast region lying north of the forty-second parallel and west of the liocky Mountains, known a few y r '"s later as " Oregon," and embracing the watershed of the CoiuKibia River, which might be held by the United States unaer the Louisiana title and the discovery right of Captain Gray, pro- vided these claims were perfected by actual occupation ; similar oc- cupation might entitle (areat Britain to its possession as a perfec- tion of her technical title, claimed by discovery through Captain Francis Drake, and 'Xploration by Captain Cook, Captain Vancou- ver and Alexander Mackenzie. Both nations having color of title, possession became the decisive issue. The Northwest Company im- media^^'dy sent a i>arty to establish trading posts on the Columbia, under command of a trusted agent naL.^d Laroque. He started in 1804, but failed to progi'ess farther than the Mandan coiuitry, and the Columl)ia stations were not established, Shnon Fraser, another agent of the company, left Fort Chipewyan in 1805, and followed the route pursued formerly by Mackenzie until he reached Fraser River. At Fraser Lake, a few miles west of the point where the river turns to the southward, he estaljlished a trading post, bestow- ing the name " New Caledonia " upon that region. As the Fraser was then considered identical with tlie Colujn}>ia, it was supposed OVERLAND JOURNEYS TO THE PACIFIC 145 that this post was on the great stream for the possession of which England and America were contending. Though this idea was subsequently learned to be erroneous, the fact remained true that the post was the first establishment made by the subjects of either nation west of the Rocky Mountains. The Americans were not far behind, for the Missouri Fur Company was organized in 1808, with headquarters at St. Louis. The same year trading posts 'svere es- tablished on the affluents of the Mississippi and Missouri, and one of the agents of the company, named Henry, crossed the Rocky Mountains, and founded Fort Henry, on the headwaters of Lewis, or Snake, River, the first American establishment, and, as it proved, the first of any kind on a tril)utary of the Columbia. The next was made nearer the mouth of the stream in 1810, by an American whose name has been variously given by superficial histoiians as " Smith," "T. Winship" and "Nathaniel Winship," none of which are cor- rect. Early in 1809 a partnership was formed in Ht)ston between A})iel Winship, Jonathan Winship, Nathan Winship, Benjamin P. Homer and a few others, for the purpose of founding a settle- ment on the Columbia as a base of trading operaticms, the settle- ment to be a permanent one. With everything necessary to the suc- cess of the project, Nathan Winship sailed in the Albatross in Jidy, William Smith being his chief mate. He carried written instruc- tions, by which it appears that the projectors of the enter[)rise were wise enough to believe that Indian character was the same on the Pacific as it had been found to be on the Atlantic. It was the de- sign to buy the land from the natives; to erect a two-story log liouse with port-holes for cannon and loop-holes for rifies; the second story to be the arsenal where all the arms and annuunition were to be stored, and to which no Indian was to be adm!;ced uptm any consideration, entrance to be effected by means of a ti-a[) door and laxhler; agriculture to be carried on under the guns of the fort, which was always to be guarded by a sufiicieui force. William A. Gale kept a journal, which gives the details of the ex{)edition. When the Albatross reached the Sandwich Islands, \\'iushi[) found a letter there from his l)rothp»' Jonathan, who was in command of the trading vessel OCain, advising him to make haste, jis the Russians had designs on the Columbia. It was the twenty-sixth of May, 1810, that the Albatross entered the river nnd began sounding it to locate 14() HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ^'^t tlie channel, gradually ascending the stream. On the first of June Winship and Smith selected a point on the south bank of the stream some forty miles above its mouth, which they called "Oak Point," because they observed there four oak trees, the first they had seen since entering the river. The place now known as " Oak Point " is on the opposite side of the river, a fact which has led some writers into the error of stating that this first American settlement on the Columbia was made in Washington Territory. They at once began preparations in accordance with their plans, such as hewing logs for the fort and clearing a patch of tlje fertile tract for a garden ; but tliey were soon initiated into the mysteries of the "June Rise," for the annual freshets of that season covered their building site and garden [)atch to the depth of several feet long before they had the fort erected. A patch of higher gi'ound five hundred yards further down the stream was selected, and the logs floated down to it, but as the natives had begun to exhibit symptoms of hostility, Winship decided to jd^andon the effort. On the seventeenth of June he dropped down to the mouth of the river, learning on the way that only his vigilance had pi-evented the capture of his vessel by the ('hinooks. lie then sailed on a trading voyage, expecting to return the next }'ear and found a settlement, but in this he wtus forestalled by the Astor party. The Albatross had quite a string of adven- tures before again reaching Boston, being seized once on the Cali- fornia coast, and once blockaded by British men ol war at the Hawaiian Islands. Thus were the first two settlements on the river made by Americans, and it will be seen that the third and most important was also made by them. CHAPTER X. ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TREATY. The Pacific Fur Trade at the Beginning of the Present Century — Ameri,- cans in the Lead — Their Plan of Operations— Rtissia Com2>lain8 of the Sale of Fire- Arms to the Indians — John Jacob Astor^s Plans— The Pacific Fur Company Organized — Astor''s Alien Partners — The ^^Tonquin^^ Sails from New York — Dissensions on the Voyage — Dan- gers of the Columbia Bar-^— Astoria Founded — Sad Fate of the '•'■Ton- quin " and Her Crew — Appearance at Astoria of an Agent of the Northwest Company — Fort Okinagan— Launch of the " Dolly " — Sufferings of Wilson Price Hunfs Party — Operations ulong the Columbia — Astoria Sold to the Northwest Company — Captured by the English and Named '■'■Fort George" — UnsucceK^^nl Efforts of Mr. Astor to Regain Possession — Negotiations und< < ■'/"■ Treaty of Ghent — Confidcting Claims to Oregon Advanced by Enyland and the United States — Technical Surrender of Fort George^Joint Occu- pation Agreed Upon — The Florida Treaty. DURING the first ten years of the present century, Anierieann took the lead in the fishing and fur trade of the Pacific, thougli the vessels of other nations were not an unfrequent sight to the waters of our coast. The reasons for this were simple. Russians did not enjoy the privilege of entering the few Chinese ports open to the commerce of more favored nations, and therefore did their trading by land fi'om Kamtchatka, as previously descril)ed; the English independent traders were excluded from the Pacific l)y the monopoly grants of the East India Company and South Sea Cora- v. pany. Naturally this usurpation of the fur trade by Americans was distasteful to rival nations, and especially to the English, who did not then, and, in fact, seldom do now, recognize the enterprise and commercial spirit of the "Yankees" as commendable, or admit \ 148 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. tlieir superioj-ity, or even e(iiiality, in anything. Though often the i'('|)ivsentiitives of wealthy and long-established business houses, tliese traders were cla^^sed l)y them as "adventurers," and very slightingly spoken of, while their skill as navigators and judgment as traders were not recognized as deserving of praise. Archibald Campbell gives the following contemptuous review of the "Yan- kee" method of conducting the fur trade: — Thesi' jKjveuturers set out on the voyage with a few trinkets of very little value. Ill tlie Southern Pacific, they pick up a few seal skins, and perhaps a few butts of oil; at the Gallipagos, they lay in turtle, of which they preserve the shells; at Val- paraiso, they raise a few dollars in exchange foi' European articles ; at Nootka, and other parts of the Northwest Coast, they tratHc with the natives for furs, which, when winter coninieiKies, they carry to the Sandwich Islands, to dry and preserve from vermin ; iiere they leave their own people to take care of them, and, in the spring, embark, in lieu, tlie natives of the islands, to assist in navigating to the Northwest Coast in search of more skins. The remainder of the cargo is then made up of sandal, which grows abundantly in the woods of Atooi and Owyhee (Hawaii), of tortoise shells, shark's fins, and pearls of an inferior kind, all of which are accept- able in the Chinese market ; and with these and their dollars they purchase cargoes of teas, silks and nankins, and thus complete their voyage in the course of two or three years. With the exception of the assertion that their outward cargo consisted solely of a "few trinkets," this may be called a correct statement of the Yankee method, and, so far from proving them to liave been mere adventurers, shows that their v^oyages were con- ducted ^vith a clear idea of the nature of the Chinese trade and the only successfid method of conducting it. Htid the traders of rival nations shown the same good judgment and managed their enter- prises in the same systematic manner, they would liuve met with a greater measure of success. The vessels were geiieially large ones, disjiatched l)y wealthy merchants, and besides the trinkets, carried valuable cargoes of English and American manufactured goods, with which they supplied the Russian and Spanish settlements on the Coast. The Russians in particular were dependent upon the American traders for ammunition, sugar, spirits, and manufactured articles generally. The "trinkets" sj)oken of were used in the Indian trade, as has been the custom from time immemorial with civilized nations in their dealincrs with inferior races. C'oiumer- cially of little value, they were highly prized l)y the natives, who would give for them more furs than they would offer for some object worth Um times the amount, but which did not strike their fancy, ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TKKATV. 149 or was of no use to them iu their maimer of living. This method of trading with the Indians was practiced as much by the Hudson's Bay Company and Northwest Company as by the Americans; nor was it confined to English-speaking nations, for the Russians also i)artered beads and cheap ornaments for valuable furs. Such arti- cles have always been considered a " valuable considei'ation " by ev'ery nation in dealing with uncivilized races. Certain of these traders were guilty of improper and impolitic conduct, however, and this was the chief cause of bringing them into disrepute. Tliey used whisky and fire-arms as articles of mer- chandise, reaping present profit, but sowing the seeds of decay which have swept away the native iniiabitants of the Coast likes flies by an October frost. It would, at the first glance, seem that the pos- session of fire-arms by the Indians would enable them to hunt more successfully, and thus, by rendering the supply of furs more abun- dant, add to the profit of the traders; but there was another face to the matter. Irving says: " In this way several fierce tribes in the vicinity of the Russian posts, or within range of their trading excur- sions, were furnished with deadly means of warfare, and rendered troul)lesome and dangerous neigh]>ors.'" The Russians were ex- tieinely harsh and illiberal in their dealings with the aborigines, winning their hostility instead of good will, and they naturally objected to the placing of the defrauded tribes on an equality M'ith themselves in the matter of weapons of war. Complaint was made by the Russian Government to the State Department; but as the American tradeis were violating no law or treaty, the Gt)veriiment could not interfere directly. It did, however, use its influence to effect a remedy. John Jacob Astor was then the central figure of the American fur trade, being engaged extensively in that business in the region of the great lakes and headwaters of the Mississippi, and was the leading merchant of New York City. His attenti(m was called to the matter and he soon devised an effectual remedy. His idea was to concentrate the trade in tiie hands of a company which would conduct it properly, and one of the means of doing this was to supply the Russian posts by contract, and thus cut off one of the most profitable elements of the Pacific tra(h' from the independent traders. His plan was to establish a permanent post at the mouth of the Columbia, which would be the headquarters for 150 HISTOKY OF WILLAMKTTE VALLEY. a large trade with the interior and along the coast, and to supply this post and the Russian settlements by means of a vessel sent an- nually from New York, which should also convey the fui-s to China and take home from there a cargo of silk, tea, etc. The independ- ent traders would thus ]»e superseded by a company which would estal)lish posts aloui; the Columl)ia, a tiling earnestlv desireil bv the Government, and the cause of iiritation to Russia would l>e removeil. The scheme was heartily endorsed by the President and Cabinet. As has been shown. President Jefferson had been for veal's a warm advocate of American supremacy along the Columbia, and in a let- ter written to ^Ir. Astt)r in later years, said of his i>pinion at that time: ''I considered, jis a great public accpiisition, tlie commence- ment of a settlement in that part of the western coiist of America, and lookeil for\\ anl with gratification to the time ^^"hen its descend- ants had spread themselves through the whole length of the coast, covering it \\"ith fi-ee and independent Americans, unconnected with us but by the ties of ]>lood and interest, and enjoying like us the lights of self-government." How vastly grander is the actual than even this graml conception of one of the greatest statesmen America has produciHl! Mr. Astor organized the Pacific Fur C()m[)auy, himself supply- ing the capital and owning a half interest. To manage operati«nis in the field, he selectetl competent men of much experience in the fur tra«le, and ti» bin«l them to his interests he gave them the other half share in tlie enterprise, divided in ecpial proportiims. Wisdom and prudence marked every step taken, with the exceptiiui of the selection of partnei"s. Among these were several men who had formerly l>elonge«l to, or were employetl by, the Northwest Com- pany. They were of alien 1)irth and sympathies. A\1ien they united with Mr. Astor it was simply as a commercial venture, by which they hin>e<l to better themselves financially. His purpose of founding an American settlement on the Columbia, so that tlie . Unitetl States miirlit dominate this region, wjis not in harmonv with their national sentiments. They were British in thought and sym- pathy, even as partnei*s in an American enterprise, and could not be relieil upon to support the interests of the United States when they came in conflict in the disputed territory with those of Great Britain, as represented by the great company in which they had ASTOKIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TKKATY. 151 received their training and to which they were attached by the strongest ties wliich time and association can weave. In an enter- prise so pinvly American and of such deep political significance, Washington's injunction to " Put none but Americans on guard" should have been wisely heeded ; and the failure so to do was most disastrous in its consequences. These men were Alexander jMcKay (father of the well known Tom. McKay and grandfather of Dr. William C. McKay, of Pendleton, On-gonj, who had accompanied Mackenzie on both of his great journeys, Duncan McDougal, David and llobert Stuai't, and Donald McKenzie. So far from undertak- ing to Americanize themselves, these gentlemen took the precaution }»efore leaving Cana<la to provide themselves with proofs of their British citizenshi)), to be used for their protection in case of future difficulties Itetween the two nations. Had this l»een known to Mr. ^Vstor it would doubtless have put a suilden termiuation to their ccmnection with the enterpi'ise. Only one American, Wilson Price Hunt, of New Jersey, was an interested partner from tlie first, and to him wa.s entrusted the management of. the enterprise on the Pacific Coast. The first movement was made on the second of August, 1810, when the shi[) Touquin sailed from New York for the mouth of the Cohunbia, commanded by Captain Jonatiian Thorn, a Lieuten- ant of the United States Navy, on leave of absence. She mounted ten guns, had a crew of twenty men, and carried a large cargo of supplies for the company, and merchandise for trading with the natives, as well a.s imi)lements and seeds for cultivating the soil, and the fame of a small schooner for use in trading along the coast. Slie carried, ius passengers, McKay, McDougal, the two Stuarts, twelve clerks (among them Tom McKay), several artisans, and thii'teen Canadian voyageurs. The voyage was uneventful, except as regards the dissensions that arosi' l»etw"en the Americ-m Captain and the Scotch partners. Captain Thorn was a strict disciplinarian. He possessed great respect for himself as an officei' of the Ameri- can Navy,. and had iidierited from Kevolutionary sires a lasting ('(mtempt foi* " Hiitisheis." He considered the authority (tf a com- mander on the deck of his vessel as supreme, even to the ])oint of autocracy, and he made the Scotchmen understand this idea the fii'st time they undertook to exercise any of the authority they conceived 13-2 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. themselves to be pu!?*t*ssed of as ptirtuei's in the company. He infonneil them that when they were on shore they could do as they pleasetl, but when they were on board of his vessel they must do as he pleaseil ov l>e put in irons. He held himself responsible in hi< manai^ement of the Touquin solely to Mr. Astoi-, fi-om whom he had receive<l liis instnictions, and would l)rook no intei-ference what- ever from the lesser partners, whom he considered as simply [«.<- sengei"s. It may well be imagined that »vhen the ship reached the Columbia Bar, on the twenty-second of the follomng March. after a voyage of nearly eight months, the snu))be<l partners were delighted at the prospect of soon setting foot on shore, where they could exercise a little of that authority which had l>eeu so com- l^letely V^ottleil up: while Captain Thorn was ecpially i)les»seil to be rid of his passengeis, who had been a continual source of annoy- ance during the voyage. A\'hen the Tonquiti arrived off the bar the weather was stormy and the breakei-s rolleil hi^h. He feared to take his vessel acros* an unkninvn l»ar in such a rough sea. This fear was not a j^ersonal one, for he was as Ijrave as he was headstrong, but wjts s<jlely in reference to the sjifety of his vessel, to secure which he would have forfeited his own life and those of his entire crew, had it l>een nee- easary to do so. He accordingly ordered Mr. Fox, the tirst mate, to take a whale lK)at, with a crew of one seaman and three Cana- dians, and explore the channel. Although it Wfts almost certain death to make the attempt, Mr. Fox expressed a willingness to undertake it if he were prt)vided with a crew of seamen instead of the gi-een Canadians; but the willful captain insisted upon the exe- cution of his order as originally given. The surging billows soon ensrulfeii the ]x>at and its Ijrave crew, and thev were seen no more. The next day another boat was sent on the same eiTand, and was swept out to sea by tlie tide and cun'ent, and only one of its occu- pants finally reachetl land in safety. Just as darkness chwed down upon the scene, on the second day, the Tonquin succeetleil in cross- ing, and auchoretl just within the bar, where the wind and ebbing tide threateuetl to s^veep her fi"om her precarious hohl ujxin the sands and swamp her amid the rolling breakers. The night was an anxious and distressful one. IrNnug says: " The wind whistled, the sea roared, the gk»om was only broken by the ghastly glare of the ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TREATY. 153 foaming breakers, the minds of the seamen were full of dreary apprehensit)ns, and some of them fancied they heard the cries of their lost comrades mingling with the uproar of the elements." In the morning the Tonquiti passed safely in and came to anchor iu a gopd harbor. On the twelfth of April the partnei"s began the erection of a fort on the south side of the river, <m a ])oint which Lieutenant Brough- t<»n had named " Point (reorge." This was christeuetl "Astoria," in honor of the founder and chief promoter of the enterprise, a name now borne by a thriving commercial city, which marks the spot where America first planted her foot squarely upon the dis- puted territory of Oregon. After much delay and continued wrang- ling over their respective authority, a store-house was built and the supplies landed; and on the fifth of June, ]»efore the fort was com- }>leted, Caj»tain Thorn sailed northward to engage in trade with the Indians, and to open that friendly connnunication with the Russian settlements which formed such an important featui'e of Mr. Astor's [)lan. AVith him went Alexander McKay, the only partner who had possessed the good sense to refi'ain fi"om ^^■rangling with the irascil)le ca})tain. He came to anchor in one of the harbore on the west coast of Vancouver Island, and Mr. McKay went ashore. During his ab- sence the vessel wjis suri'oundetl by a host of savages in their ca- noes, who soon swarmed upon the decks. They were eager to trade, but had eN^dently had consideral)le experience in dealing with the whites and were well posted upon the value of their furs, for they resolutely demanded a higher price than Captain Thorn was will- ing to pay. Provoked beyond measure at their stubbornness, Thorn refused to deal with them, whereupon they became exceedingly inso- lent. The Captain at bust completely lost his temper, and seizing the old chief, Nookamis, who was following him about and taunting him \vith his stinginess, rubbed in his face an otter skin he had been endeavoring to sell. He then t»rdere(.l the \vhole l)and to leave the ship, and added })lo\\'8 to enforce his command. The tragic ending of this adventure is thus related by Irving: — When Mr. McKay returned on Iward, the interpreter related what had passed, and begged him to prevail upon the Captain to make sail, as, from his knowledge of the temper and pride of the people of the place, he was sure they would resent the indignity ofl'ered to one of their chie&. Mr. McKay, who himself posseesed 154 HISTOKY OP WILLAMETTE VALLEY. some experience of Indian ebaraeter, went to the Captain, who wag «till pacing the decl( in moody humor, represented ttie danger to which bi^ ha^y act had expoised the veasel, and urged upon him to weigh anclior. The Captain made light of his counsels, and pointed to his cannon and tire-unus as a sufiic-it-nt saf«:^iiard again^ nailed savages. Further remonstrance only provoked taunting replies and sharp altercations. The day passed awav without any signs of hostility, and at night the Captain retired, as usual, to his cabin, taking no more than u^ual prev-aution?. On the following morning, at daybreak, while tht- Captain and Mr. McKay were yet asleep, a canoe came alongside in which were twenty Indians, conmianded by young Shewish. They were unarmetl, their as|>«ct and demeanor friendly, and they held up otter skins, and made signs indicative of a wish to trade. The caution enjoined by Mr. Astor in resj)ect to tlie admisttion of Indians on l;«fttr«I of the sliip, liad been neglected for some time past, and the offi«jer of the watch, perceiv- ing tliose in the canoes to be wilhout weapons, and havins received no orders to tlie contrary, readily permitted them to mount the dei-k. Another can*<e $oon suc- ceeded, the crew of which was likewise admitted. In a little while "ther canoes came off, and Indians were soon clambering into the vesisel on all ^d««>. The officer of the watch now felt alarmeil. and called to Captain Thorn and Mr. McKay. By the time tliey came on de<'k, it was thronged with Indians- The interpreter noticed to Mr. McKay that many of the natives wore short mantles of skins, and intimated a suspicion that they were secretly armed. Mr. McKay urged the Captain to clear the sliip and get under way. He again made light of the advice ; but the augmented swarn) of canoc!* about the ship, and the numhters still putting off from the shore, at length awakened hi* distrust, and he ordered some of the crew to weigli anchor, while some were sent aloft to make saiL The Indians now offered to trade with the Captain on his own terms, prompted, apparently, by the approaching departure of the ship. Accordinidy. a hurried trade was commenced. Tlie main articles sought by the savages in liarter. were knives; us fast as some were sui)plied they moved off and others su'TC-eeded. By degrees they were thus distriluited about the deck, and all with weapons. The an- clior was now nearly up, the sails were loose, and the Captain, in a load and pre- emptory tone, ordered the ship to be cleared. In an instant a -iznal yell was given; it was echoed on every side, knives and war clubi* were brandished in every direc- tion, and the savages rushed upon their marked victims. The first that fell was Mr. Lewis, the ship's clerk. He was leaning, with folded arms, over a bale of blankets, engaged in bargaining, when he re«-ive"l a deadly stab in the back, and fell down the companionway. Mr. McKay, who was seated on the taffrail, sprang to his feet, but was instantly knocked down with a war-club and flung backwards into the sea, where he was dispatched by the women in the canoes. In the meantime, Captain Thorn made desyierate fight asainsi fearful odds. He was a powerful as well as resolute man. but he came ufion dwk with'Kit weapons. SLewish, the young chief, singled him out a* hi* peculiar prey, and rushed upon him at the first outbreak. The Captain had barely time to draw a clasji-knife, with one blow of which he laid the young savaee dead at hi* feet. Sev- eral of the stoutest followers of Shewish now set ufwm him. He defende«l himself vigorously, dealing crippling blows to right and left, and strewing the quarterdeck with the slain and wounded. His object was to fight hi* way to the cabin, where there were fire-arms ; but he was hemmed in with foes, covered with wounds, and faint with loss of blood. For an instant he leaned upon the tiller wheel, when a blow from behind, with a war-club, felled him to the deck, where he was dis- patched with knives and thrown overboard. While this was transacting upon the quarterdeck, a chance medlev- was going on throughout the ship. The crew fought desperately with knives, handspikes ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TKEATY. 155 and whatever wi>a|)on8 they aiuM seize upon in the nionu-nt of surprise. They were soon, however, overpowered by numbers and niercileHS'ly butchered. As to the seven who had been sent aloft to nuilie sail, they conteniidated with liorror the carnage that was going on below. Being destitute of weaiK)ns, they let theinselvt-s down by the running rigging, In hopes of getting between declvs. One fell in the attempt, and was instantly dispatched ; another receivetl a death-blow in the liack as he was descending; a third, Stephen Weeks, the armorer, wjis mortally wounded as he was getting down the hatchway. The remaining four made ^ood their re- treat into the cabin, where they found Mr. L^'wis still alive, tliough mortally wonncled. Barricading the cabin door, they l)roke holes through the companion- way, and, with muskets and ammunition which were at liand. opened a i)risk fire that soon cleared the tleck. Thus far the Indian interpreter, from whom these particulars are derived, had been an eye-witness of the deadly cimllict. He had taken no part in it and had been spared by the natives as l»eing of their race. In the confusion of the moment he took refuge with the ri-st, in the canoes. The sur- vivors of the crew now sallied forth and dis"harged some of the deck guns, wliich did great execution among the canoes and drove all the savages to shore- For the remainder <)f the day no one ventured to put ott'to the ship, deterred by the eflects of the tire-arms. The night passed away without any further attempt on the part of the natives. When day dawned the 7oiif/uin still lay at anchor in the bay, her sails all loose and flapping in the wind, an<l no one apparently on board of her. After a time, some of the canoes ventured forth to reconnoitre, taking with them the interpreter. They paddled about her, keeping cautiously at a distance, but growing more and more emboldened at seeing her <iuiet anil lifeless. One man at length made his appearance cm the deck and was recognized by tlie interi)reti'r as Mr. Lewis. He made friendly signs and invited tiiem on boaril. It was long before thej- ventured to comply. Those who mounted the deck met witli no ojtpo- sition ; no one wiw to be seen on board, for Mr. Lewis, after inviting tliem, haddis- api>eared. Other canoes now pressed forward to boanl the prize; the <lecks were soon crowdetl and tlie sides covered witli clambering savages, ail intent on plunder. In tlie midst of their eagerness and exultation, the shij) blew up with a tremendous explosion. Arms, legs and mutilated bodies were blown into the air, and dreadful hav(K; was made in the surrounding amoes. The interpreter was in the nuun chains at the time of the explosion, and was thrown unhurt into the water, where he succeeded in getting into one of thj canoes. xVccording to his statenunt the bay presented an awful spectacle after the catastrophe. The ship had disajjpeared, but the bay was covered with fragments of the wreck, with shattere<l canoes, and Indians swimming for their lives or struggling in the agonies of death ; while those who had escaped the danger remained aghiist and stupitied, or made witli frantic panic for the shore. I'pwards of a hundred savages were destroycl liy the explo- sion, many more were shockingly mutilated, and for days afterwards the lind)s and bijdies of the slain were thrown ujion the beach. The inhabitants of Neweetee were overwhelmeil with consternation at this a.«tounding calamity which had burst upon them in the very moment of triumph. The warriors sat mute and mournful, while the women filled the air with loud lam- entations. Their weeping and wailing, however, was suddenly clianged into yells of fury at the sight of four unfortunate white men brought captive into the village. They had been driven on shore in one of the ship's boat.s, ami taken at some dis- tance along the coast. The interpreter was jyermitted to converse with them. They proved to be the four brave fellows who had made such desperate defense from the cabin. The interpreter gathered from them some of the particulars already related. They told him further that, after they had beat«n ofT the enemy, and cleared the ship, Lewis advised that they should slip the cable and endeavor to get to sea. 156 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. They declined to take his advice, alleging that the wind uet too strongly into the bay, and would drive them on shore. They resolved, as soon as it was dark, to put oft' quietly in the ship's boat, which they would be able to do unperceived, and to coast along back to Astoria. They put their resolution into effect ; but Lewis re- fused to accompany them, being disabled by his wound, hopeless of escape and determined on a terrible revenge. On the voyage out he had freciucntiy expressed a presentiment that he should die l)y iiis own hands— thinking it highly probable that he should be engaged in some contests with tlie nati"es, and being resolved. In case of extremity, to commit suicide rather than i)e made a prisoner. He now de- clared his intention to remain on the ship until daylight, lo decoy as many of the savages on board as possible, then to set tire to the powder magazine and terminate his life by a single act of vengeance. How well he succeeded has been shown. His companions bade him a melancholy adieu and set off ou their precarious expe- dition. They strove with might and main to got out of the buy, but found it im- possible to weather a point of land, and were at length compelled to take shelter in a small cove, where they hoped to remain concealed until the wind should Ik; more favorable. Exhausted by fatigue and watching, they fell into a sound sleep, and in that state were surprised by the savages. Better had it been for those un- fortunate men had they remained wltii Lewis and shared his heroic death ; as it was, they perished in a more painful and i)rotracted manner, being sacrificed by the natives to the manes of their friends with all the lingering tortures of savage cruelty. Some time after their death the Interpreter, who had remained a kind of prisoner at large, eft'ected his escape and brought the tragical tidings to Astoria. While this sad tragedy was being enacted, affairs progressed rapidly at Astoria. The fort was comjileted and everything was placed in readiness for an opening of the expected large trade with the natives of the Colinnl)ia. On the fifteenth of July a canoe, manned by nine white men, was observed descending the river, and when they landed at the fort they were found to be a party of em- ployees of the powerful Northwest Company, headed by David Thompson, a partner in that great organization. lie had been dis- patched from Montreal the year before, for the purpose of taking possession of the mouth of the Columbia before the Astor party should arrive. He had experienced much liardship, disappointment and delay; had been deserted by nearly all his party, and no^v, with but a few faithful ones, he arrived too late to accomplish his mis- sion. The Americans were in possession. The Northwest Com- pany held a warm place in McDougal's heart, and as that gentle- man was in charge at Astt)ria, Thompson received a cordial wel- come, and was bountifully supplied with provisions and necessaries for his return journey, notwithstanding the fact that he was but a spy upon his hosts. When he set out upon his return, eight days later, he was entrusted with a letter to Mr. Astor, giving the presi- dent of the company information of the safe arrival of the Tonquin^ ASTORIA AND THE JOINT OCCTPATIOX TREATY. 157 tlu' founding of Astoria, and the al»*encf of t'lie vewsfl u})on a trad- ing voyage to the north, for the destruction of the ship and tragic death of the crew were as yet unknown at the f«»rt. With Thoni[)- son went David Stuart, at the head f»f a |»arty of nine men, with instructions to estaldisli a post on the l'|i[K'r Gduinhia. This he accomplished ])y founding Fort Okinairuu, near the mouth of tlie Okinagan River. In the fall Stuart sent half his men back to Astoria, not having sufficient provisions to subsist them all through the winter. The schooner whose frame had l)een brought out in the Tonquin, was constructe«l during the summer, an«l was launched oil the second of October, receiving the name of Dolly. She was the third craft consti-ucted on the up^xr coa^st, and the tirst built along tlie Columbia Kiver. While these steps were lieing taken by the })arty which reached Astoria by sea, the other »»ne which attempted the overland journey wjus suffering terrilde hardsliij)s. The laud party was under the command of AVilson Price Hunt, and wa^ composed of McKenzie and three new partners, liamsey Crook^, Joseph Miller and RoWrt Mcl^llan; also, John Day, a noted Kentucky hunter; Pierre Dorion, a French half -breed inter- preter, and enough trappei-s, voyageurs, etc.. to make a total of sixty lieople. They reached Fort Henry, on Snake River, October 8, ISll. Small detachments were, from time to time, sent out in the Rocky Mountains to trap, who were to use Fort Henry as a base of supplies and a depot for fure. The remainder of the party contiuuetl the journey down Snake River and met with a continuous succession of disasters. Antoine Clappin was drowTied in passing a rapid, and soon after famine reduced them to a pitiable condition. They were finally forced to separate into small detachments, one party going under Crooks, another under McKenzie, and a third under Hunt, with the hope that by such a division their chances for reaching the mouth of the Col- umbia would be increased. Once the parties under Crooks and Hunt camped with only the narrow, turbulent waters of Snake River separating them. The Hunt party had killed a horse and were cooking it, while their starving companions on the opposite side of the stream, with no means of crossing it. were forced to look on Jis they dined. Not a man in Mr. Hunt's camp would make an effort to send them food, until the arrival of Mr. Crooks, who, discovering 158 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. the conditioM of liis men on the opposite side, called to the forlorn hand to start fires for cookinsj, that no time might be lost, while he constructed a canoe (>ut of skins in which to take the meat across to them. In vain he tried to shame the more fortnnate into helping t(-> succor tlieir famishing companions, Imt "A vague and almost su])erstitious teri'or," savs Irving, " had infected the minds of Mr. Hunt's followers, enfeebled and rendered imaginative of horroi's by the dismal scenes and sufferings through which they had passed. They regai'ded the haggard crew, hovering like s|)ectres of famine on the opptisite bank, with indefinite feelings of awe and apprehension, as f something desperate and dangerous was to be feared from them." When the canoe was finished, Mr. Crooks attem})ted to navigate the imj)etuous stream with it, but found his strength une(|ual to the task, and failing to I'cach his companions on the opposite bank, nnide another appeal to Hunt's men. Finally, a Kentuckian, named Ken. Jones, undertook and made the passage, conveying meat to them and tlien came l)ack. Irving, in describing the sad scene, says; — A |)()()r CauHdiiin, liowever, named Jean Baptists Prevost, wlioni faniinf had ri'uderotl wild and dfs])C'rutc', ran frantically about the bankn, after Jones had re- turned, er> iiiji out to Mr. Hunt to send the oanoe for him, and take him from that horrible reKldii of fami!<e, deelarinjt tliat otherwise he would never juareh another step, i)ut would lie down tlu're ami die. The eanoe was shortlj' sent over ap^ain, under the manairement of Joseph Delaunay, with further supplies. I'revost inime- diatelv pressed lurv.ard to embark. Delaunay refused to admit him, telling hln; that .here was now a sutllcient supply of meat on his side of the river. He replied tha. it was not cooked, and he should starve before it was ready ; he implored, theri"- fore, to l>e taken where he could «ct something to ajijieiise his hun^jer immediately. Finding the canoe j)uttinij; of)" withoiit him, he forced himself aboard. As he drew near the opposite shore, and beheld meat roabtin)t before the tire, he Jumped up, shouted, clai)i)ed his hands, and danced In a delirium of joy, until lu' upset the canoe. The |)oor wretch was swept away by the cuvrent and 'Irowned, and it was with extreme dilllcuKy that Delaunay reached the shore. Mi. Hunt now sent nil his nu'n forward cxceptiuK two or three. Fii the evening, he caused another horse to be killed, and a canoe to be nuvde out of the skin, in which lie sent over a further supply of meat to the opposite i)arty The canoe brought buck John Day, the Ken- tucky hunter, -ho came to Join his former commander and employer, Mr. Crooks. Poor Diiy, once so active and vigorous, was now rcfJuced to a condition even more feeble and emaciated than his companions. Mr. Oooks had such a value for the man, on account of his past services and faithful character, that he determined not to (piit him; he exhorted Mr. Hunt, however, to proceed forward and Join tin- party, i.j his presence was all important to the cojuhict of the exp<'dltion. One of the Canadians, Jean Baptiste Dubreull, likewise temalned with Mr. CrtK/ks. The oocnrrpnces at this starvation chmp were on the twentieth of ASTOKIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION TREATY. 159 I)eceml)er, 1811, both parties being tni their way up Snake River after having found the (h'soent of that stream impossilde. It wjiH now tlie'u' intention to strike across tlie country for the C(tlunil)ia, as soon as it was practicahh* to <U) so. On the twenty- tliii'd of December, Mr Hunt's followers crossed to the west side of the stream, where they were joined by Crook's men, who were already there. The two parties, when united, numbered thirty-six souls, and on the next <hiy they turned from the river into a track- less country; but, before starting, thive more of their number had concluded to ivmain amonj^; the sava<;es rather than face tho hard- sliips and trials that lay before them. December 2H, 1.S11, the head waters of Grand Ronde River were reached, and the la.st day of that year found them encamped in the valley of that name. Through all their perils and wanderings since leaving St. Louis, one woman, the Indian wife of Pierre Dorion, a guide, inter])i'eter and trapper, had accompanied them, bringing with her two children, and, as the {)arty entered the (rrand Ronde Valley, she gave birth to another. The next day she continU(xl the journey on liorseback as though nothing had ]iaj>[»ened, but the little stranger only lived six days. Mr. Ilimt, after halting one or two days to enable his followers to celebrate, in theii' f(jrlorn wa}', the advent of a new year that had presented to them the (li'and Ronde \'alley, a kind of winter para- dise in the mountains, continued his course to the west. Tlie Rlue Mountain ridge was passed, and January S, 1S12, an Indian village on the Umatilla River close to the mountains wsus reached, where they were hospitably recieived. From there their route was down this stream to the Cohunbia River, thence to the mouth of the latter, arriving at Astoria February lo, 1^<12. Sinc(! leaving Fort Henry, October 10, ISll, out of Mr. Hunt's |)arty,two men had been drowned on Snake River, and poor Michael Carriere, when exhausted, had straggled beliind in Grand Roude Valley, anil was never heard from afterwards. Ramsey Crooks, John Day and four Canadian voyageurs had been left lialf dead on Snaki! River, to remain in the Indian country, die, or reach the Co- lumbia a.s best they could. Eleven men. among whom were Donald McKen/ie, Robert McLellan and the unfortunate John Reed, had Iteeii <letached on Snake River, and following that stream until its waters mingled with the Columbia, had reached Astoria a 160 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. month in advance of Mr. Hunt. Mr. Stuart, when returning from liis post on the Okinagan, during the first days of April, found Mr. Crooks and John Day on the banks of the Columbia River, without weapons, nearly starved, and as naked as when born, having been robbed and stripped by the Dalles Indians. They had wintered in the Blue Mountains about (hand Ronde Valley, and in the spring had i-eached the Walla Wallas, who had fed, succored them, and sent them on their way rejoicing down the river. When found, they were making their way back to tli^se early friends of the Americans, who never failed to assist our people when in trouble. At length all but three of those starting from the head waters of the Snake River for Astoria had reached that place, except the four voyageurs, anil later tlu^y, too, were found by a return party. On the ninth of May, the ship Beaver, with reinforcements and supplies, anchored at Astoria, and the Pacific Fur Company was in condition to enter upon a vigorous fur-gathering campaign. Mr. Hunt, who was at the head of affairs, set out in July for Alaska to fulfill the mission upon which the ill-fated Tonquin had sailed, and hisdepartuie left Duncan McDougal in cliarge. Prior to this, however, the various expeditions to trap waters and trade with natives between the Rocky and Cfiscade Mountains liad started, sixty-two strong, up the Columbia. Among the numlier was the unfortunate John Day, and, as the party ap[)roached the scenes of his former sufferings, his mind became delirious, and the mere sight of an Indian would throw him into a frenzy of passion. He finally attem[)ted his own life, but waw prevented from taking it, after which a constant guard was kept over him. It was at length de- termined to send liim back to Astoria, and being placed in charge of two Indians, he wan delivered by them at the fort, where he died in less than a year. His old compeers and staunch friends, wh<t had shared j)erils and privations with him, were forced to continue tiieir journey with a sad memory of this companion, whose brain Irnd been shattered by his nuuiy misfortunes. The stream wliich had witnessed his sufferings still bears the heroic trapper's name. The arrival of trappers at the present site of Wallula, on the 4,wenty- eighth of July, 1S12, was the signal for general rejoicing among the friendly Walla Wallas, who gre(>ted them with bonfires and a night dance, in which they sang the praises of their white friends. Here A8TOK1A AND THK ,IOINT OCCUPATION TUKATY, IGl the four expeditions were to separate, Robert Stuai't to cross the continent by Hunt's route; David Stuart to go up the Columbia to Okinagan; Donald McKenzie to establish a post in the Nez Perce country; and John Clarke to locate one among the Spokane Indians. Of these several expeditions, Robert Stuart, with his pai'ty, includ- ing Crooks and McLellan, reached St. Louis eleven months later, ])earing news to Mr. Astor of his enterprise on the Paciiic Coast. McKenzie's operations were a failure; David Stuart's success was e(pial*ito his most sanguine hopes, and Mr. Clarke's efforts resulted second only to those of Mr. Stuart. On the twenty-fifth of May, 1813, Mr. Clarke started from his post on the Spokane to reach the \\'alla Walla, the ])lace agreed upon as a general rendezvous, where the different expediticms were to meet and return to Astoria with the fui's obtained in their ojie- rations during the past season. On his way up, Mr. C-larke had left his canoes in charge of a Palouse chief, living at the mouth of the river of that name, with whom he found them on his ivtiu'n. He had twenty-eight horsi^ ])acks of furs, and all his men were in high spirits Ijecause of the success that had attended their year's work. While stopping at the mouth of this stream to repair their canoes, in which to embark ujum the river, an incident happened that can not well be passed in silence. Mr. Clarke was a strong disciplinarian, something t)f an aristocrat, and disposed to impress those with wiiom he came in contact with the dignity of his ])res- t'uce ;uid person. He was in the habit of carrying a silver goblet to drink from, and the glittering object carefully guarded by its possessor, had a sti'ange fascination for the superstitious Indians. In all tlieir laud, no such wondrous device had been seen In-fore. I'licy talked to <'ach other concerning it, watched its appearance, .111(1 the care with which the lucky possessor laid it away after using. They believed it to l>e a great medicine, like the spotted shirt and the white ipiilt among the CtiMir d'Alenes, a powi'iiul talisman to shield its owner from harm. One night it <lisa|)peared, and Mr. C'larke was enraged. lie threat<'ne<l to hang the first In- dian defticted in stealing, and the ne.xt night an unfortunate one wius caught in the act. A hasty trial followed, and the prisoner was condemned to die, when Mr. Clarke nnide the assendded sav- ages ji s](ee«'h. lie recounted th«' numerous gifts that luul been be- 162 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. stowed, the benefit the white man's presence had been to theii* peo- ple, and then, iipl)i'aiding them for thefts, told the Indians that he should kill the thief he had oaptinvd with pilfered goods. The old chief and his followers besouglit him not to do tliis. They were willing that he shouhl lie juinishcd severely, and then let go, but the trappei- was inexorable, and the poor groveling \vretch wax dragged to a temporary scaffold, constructed {r<»m oars, and was launched into eternity. The other partners of the Pacific Fur C'om- pany were unanimous in condenming this act, ami Gal)riel Fran- chere, who was on*; of the company clerks, wrote concerning the killhig »»f the unfortunate John Keed and his party by Indians dur- ing the ensuing winter: " We had no dtiubt that his massacre was an act of vengeance, on the part of the natives, in retaliation for the death of one of their [»eo[>le, whom Mr. John Clarke had hanged for theft the sprint; before."* Immediately after this hanffing the |)arty embarked for the mouth of the Walla Walla, where Stuart and McKenzie Avere Avaiting, and from this point they all continued their way down the river, arriving at Astoria, June 12, IHIM, Upon re-assembling at head ([uaiters, the return exjieditions found that, upon the whole, it had been a successful year's labor; that tlie {H'ltry brought in, amounting to (me hundred and Hfty -seven packs, if s(»ld at market rates in Canton, would pay well for the time s[>ent, and reimburse them foi- local losses. In addition to this, they had become well established in the fur-producing regions, and the outlotik was very encouraging except for one thing. War had been raging between (Jreat liritain and the I'nited States for over a year, and they had recently become aware of the fact. On their arrival at Astoria, J. (i. McTavish, with nineteen men, was found c«m[>ed near by, awaiting the ap]tearance of a vessel called the Isaac Todd^ sent by the Noi'thwest C'onij>an\' with stores for tlieru, and bearing letters of mar(|ue, and instructions from the British (loverii- raent to destr(»y everything American found on the Pacific Coast. This latter fact was unknown at Astoria at tiie time, however, but the non-arrival of supplies by sea, combined with the unfavorable news of British success in arms, led the partners to fear fliat none what^^ver would reach them. They, conse(|uently, determined to • TlilB Is iiiKlo(il>t«>dlv liu'orrcct. as Hei-ifN party wan kllli'd nonr BVrt Henry, devpml hiindrcil iiilleH UlHliiiil. Hii>l liy II ioiiilly dlMltnut tribe ul' IiidlaiiM. ? • ASTOEIA AND THE JOINT OCCUPATION THKATY, 163 abandon the country and start on their return overland the ensuing year, if their misgivings proved well founded. They sold their Spokane fort to McTavish for $848, and then furnished that gentle- man with provisions to enable him to return to the upper country, and, in July, they visited the interior themselves, to gather what furs they could before taking final leave of the country. Three months later, McTavish returned to Astoria with a force of seventy- five TO', n, for the purpose of meeting the vessel that had caused his former visit, bringing, also, the news that her coming to the Colum- bia was for the purpose of capturing Astoria, and to assist the Northwest Company in gaining ascendency on the coa.st. He offered to buy the furs of the Astorians, and, on the si.xteeuth of October, 1813, a transfer of the entire stock, worth at leawt ^''i(>,0(i(», was made for less tlian >^4(>,(K>0. Two months later, on December 12th, the fort wa8 sui-rendered to the English under conunand of a naval officer. Captain Hlack of the Raccoon, when tlie American flag wa.s lowered to give the British colors place, and the name of Astoria was changed to " Fort (leorge." An anuising incident of this trans- fer is related by John Ross CJox: — The IndianB, at the mouth of the (Columbia, knew well ttiut Great Britian ttiui America were distinct nations, and that they were then at war, but were iRnovant of the arrangement made between MeHnrs. McDougal and McTavish, the former of whom Htill continued as nominal chief at the fort. On the arrival of the Raccoon which they quickly discovered to be one of "King (Jeorge's (iKhting ships," they repaired, armed, to tlie fort, and requested an audience of Mr. McDougal. He was somewhat surprised at their numbers and warlike apfiearance, and demanded the object of such an unusual visit. Conconily, the principal chief of the Chinooks (whose daughter McDougal had married), thereupon addressed himin a l<>ngsi)eech, in the course of which ho said that King George had sent a ship full of warriors, iind loaded with nothing but big'guns, to take the Americans and make them all slaves, and that, as they (the Americans) were the first white men who settled in their country, and treated the Indians like good relations, they ha('i resolved to defend them from King (ieorge's warriors, and were now ready to conceal them- selves In the woods close to tlie wharf, from whence they would be able, with their (.'uus and arrows, to shoot all the men that shoidd attempt to land from flie English lioats, while the people in the fort could tire at tliem with their big guns and rifles. This ]>ropo8itlon was uttered with an earnestness of manner that admitted no doubt of itjs sincerity. Two armed boats from (he Raccoon were approaching, and, had the people In the fort felt disposed to accede to the wishes of tlie Iiidiuns, every man in them would have been destroyed by an invisible enemy. Mr. McDougal thanked them for their friendly offer, but added, that, notwithstanding the nations were at war, the people in the boats would not Injure hini or any of his people, and therefore re(|uested them to throw by their war shirts and arms, and receive the strangers as their I'riends. They at first seemed astonished at this answer; but, on assuring llieni, in the must positive manner, tliat he was under no iipprehenslon, they eon- uu Hl!*TOKY OK WILLAMETTK VALLKT. sontetl to give up their weaiions for a few days. They afterwards declared they were sorry fur having roni|)lied with Mr. MfDougal's wishes, for when tliey oh- serveti Captain HIaek, xurrountied by Ijis otHcers and marines. I>r»>ak tlie liottle of port on tlie tlag-statt'. and hoist the HritiHli ensign, after eliangin/ the name of the fort, they reniarke<1 that however lie miglit wisli to eoneeal tite faet, t lie Americans were undoul>le<ily nuule slaves. Seventy-»'i«rht days aft<*f t\\v sun't'iidfr <»f Astoria t«> tlu- British, Mr. Hu'it arrivf-il at that fort in the hri^ Pedlar, ami jutlire «»f Iiis astonishiiuMit to learn that Mt'I)oui;al was lut hniirer a partner of the Pai'itie, hut of the Nortliwest, Conij>an\ ; that lie held |Mis.ses- slon, not iiiuler the American, hut under the British, ttajr: and that all in whieh Mr. Hunt was interested on this eoast ha<l |«tsse<l, without a MiUiTirle, thronuh treaeherv, intt> the haiuls of his couutrv's enemies. Mr. Hunt, finally, secured the pape'-s pertainiui; to husi- nesvs trausaetious of the I'aeitie Fur Company from MeDoUiral, and then sjiiletl, April 3, 1814, from the .shore that Inul seemeil to yield only misfortune and disaster in return for the efftuts of himself, and those with wlu»m he was associated. The ne.xt dav. David Stuart MoKenzie. John Clarke and eighty-iive other mendn^rs and employees of the Paeitie Fur Comj)any, started up the Columhia River in their iMiats on their way across the continent, and while pjis.-^inir Wallula, learne«l from the widow of Pierre Dorion, of the massacre of John Roeil and his eight Jts.sociates, among the Snake Indians near Fort Henry. Thus matters remained until the war of l.Sl'J was terminated by the Treaty of (ihent, by 'vhich it was stipulatiil that "all t<'rritory, places juhI jms.sessions, whats<»ev«'r, taken by either party from the <)ther tlnring the war, or which may be tak«'n after the signing of this treaty, shall be re.st<»red without tlelay." The etinunissioners couhl not agree upon a line of division between the pos.s«'ssi(m8 of England and the United States w<'st of the Lake of the W«»ods, so the Oregim question wjis left for further disctKvion. and the C\dinn- bia remaine«l dispute«l territory. Mr. Astor at once applie<1 to the President for restitution of his property under the terms (»f the treaty, sis he not only desired to recover his losses, Itut to resume operations on the ('oluml>ia and cairy out the plan of American «K*cupation which had been so well l»egun. Acconlingly. in Jidy. If^l"), the government notified the British Minister at \Va.shingtou that it woidd immediat*^ly reo<!cup3 the captur^l fort at the mouth of ASIOIMA AM) THK .KUNT (>('('l'rA'n«»\ TUKATY. K).') tlu' Columhia: Imt tlu' uotlHcjition elicitod n<> official responne from (ircat Britain. For two years no active inwisurcs were taken, and, tinally, in Se{>t«'ni!»er, I. Si 7, the sloop of war Ontario \va.s dispatched to the C(»liniil»ia, conimanded by Captain J. Bi<ldle, wlio, with J. li. Prevost, who went as a passenger, constituted a commission to acconiplisJi the p»n-p(»se declared. They wei'e instructed to assert the claim of the I'nited States to sovereignty over the regi«m of tlie Columbia, but to do so in an inoffensive nuuiner. This step compelled (Ireat Britain to detine her [»osition. Her representative at ^^'ashin^ton officially in([uired of Secretary Adams the destination and oliject of the Ontario^ 'M\(\ with the information he received in response to his query was the intimation, that since England had paid no attention to the notice given her two yeaiv before, it had l)een assume<l that she had no intention t)f claiming any sovereign rights al«)nsr the CoUunbia. In answer to this the British Minister stated that the post at the mouth of the CVdumbia was the private property of the NortlnN'est Company, having been purchased by its agent from a partner of Mr. Astor; furthermore, that it wa.s situated in a region long ()ccui)ied by that company, (referring, presumably, t(» the establishment on Fnuser River, many hundred miles to the north), and was consetpiently considered a [)ortion of His Majesty^s dominions. Quite a spirited correspond- ence was maintained for some time, involving on each side the ques- tions of abstrai't rights by discovery and absolute rights by posses- sion, l>oth parties to the cttntroversy !)asing a claim upon each of these foundations. As the claims then put forward reuuiined prac- tically the same until the (piestion was settled in 1S4<> — with a iiiodiHcatitm only in the dir<'ction <»f additional settlements made between these periods— it is well to tletine here the positii)n a.s.sumed liy the contending parties. The I'nited States claimed Oregon under foui' distinct titles: First, as a portion of Louisiana, piu'chased from France in 1803; second, l)y right f)f discovery l)y the Spanish e.\ph)rers — Ferrelo, Aguilar, IVre/, lleceta, B(»dega y Quadra, and others — the benefit of whose discoveries accrued to the United States by the Floi'ida |)urcha.se made in 1819, denying at the same time that Sir Francis Drake proceeihil north of the forty-thinl degree, a point claimed to have Ijeen pre.vitmsly reached by Ferrelo [The Spanish title wa.s not 1H6 IIISTOKV OK WII.I.AMKTTK VAI.I KY. asserted, of eouis**, until after the purelijise, being subsequent to the Hist temporary <ettleinent of the (question ]; third, by rea-«on of the discovery of th«* Columbia by Captain (iray, claimintr that Ilt^fta, Meares and N'aneouver had all declared that no river ••xi«it«'«l there. anil that Hroughton had sinqdy entered it subsHpient to its disci»v- ery l)v (rray, ami explored it a few miles further up: fourth, by reason of the explorations of Captains Lewis and Clarke, and the establishment i»f jH>sts at Astoi'ia, (Jkinagan and SjM>kaue by the Paeitic Fur Company, denying that the sale of those jM)sts, effectwl umler the diu-ess of threateneil capture by a man-of-war, w:is such {is to affect the right of the I'niteil States to the benetits to In- de- riveil from settlements made by her subjects, es])ecially in view of the terms of the treaty of peace. On the j)art »»f (xreat Britain it wa- clainietl that the country 'vas originally discovei*e«l by Sir FraneU Drake, and its coast th«»roughly explored by Captain Cook and Captain Vanc«»uver: that the disc(»very of the C<dunjbia had l»een a jtrogressive one, the successive steps having been taken by Hei-eta, Meares, Vancouver, (iray and Brought«>n, claiming that (iray had not entere<l the river i>rt»per, but simply the estuary at its mouth, and that Bi'ouirhton wjt"* the first to actually enter an»l explore the Columbia, and d«-nying that (Jray, who was simply a trad' . couhl acquire discovery rights for his government; and, finally, that <he held the country by right of exploration and posses>ion. since McKenzie luul made an overland jc^urney prior to that of Lewis and Clarke, Fras«*r had built a fort on Fraser Lak^- bt-fon- Astoria w:»s founded, and the Xoithwest Comjiany, having purchasetl at private sale the pro^n-rty of the Pacific Fur Company, then held imssesision of the Columltia ngion by means of settlements at Astoria and other points ah»ng the river. Such were the claims advanci^l by the two natit»ns for potsjession of Oregon, there U'lng n»any undeniable rights and ifpiities on either side. A t«-m)»orarv agreement was affecte<l in a few mouth.<. Ity which it wa> d^t-ide^l that Astoria and the other jxists should remain the actual pi-ojH'rty of the Northwest Company, but that nominal possession should be given to the L'nite<l States as a nation. the (juestion of title Ix'ing deferred for future negotiation. This decision was a severe blow to the hopes of Mr. Astor, who had looke<1 to the Government to place him in possession of the prop- \S|(»i:iA AND rilK .lOIXT (JCrri'ATION TIIKATY. 167 fity wiik-li lie lijul lost throuirli the fortunes of war arul the treaehery of oiu- of liis partners. So firmly intrenclie<l wan the Northwest Company that he did not deem it advisalde to found a rival estab- lishment, and he al)andone<l his effort to enga<(e in the fur trade in the Paeifie. By thus failin;/ t<» support its citizens who had under- taken to plant the ila<r of the ['nited States firmly on the soil of OreiTon, the (fovernment jeopardized, almost to total annihilation, its chanees foi' future possession of tlii< repon. While these neifotiations were in proi^ress, the Ontario was ful- filling her mission. She arrivinl at Valparaiso in February, 1818, and .Mr. Prevost del)ark«*«l, having an official mission to the Chilean (tovernment. Captain Hid<lle continued northward, and entered the Columbia in .\ugnst, taking formal possession of the country in the name of the I'liiteil States. Me then sailed to other portions of the Pacific. .Meanwhile, th*- «*ontroversy having been tempoi-arily settled upon the terms outlined al)()ve, the British (xovernment delegated ( 'aptain Sheriff, of the navy, sis commissioner to e.xecute formal trans- fer of Fort (reorge. The agent of the Northwest (Vmipany, Mr. Keith, wjis also notiti«'d by his superi(»r officers of what was about to be dune, the ordei-s going «>verland with the annual Mcmtreal express, and enjoined to offer no (»pposition to the formal transfer. Captain Sheriff sailed in the frigate Blossom, and meeting Mr. Prevost in Chile, offei-ed him passage to the Cohnnbia in his vessel, which <-ourte.sy wjus accepted. The ^/^^v.ww <'ast anclioi- at Astoria early ill ( )ctober, and Mi'. Keith surrendere*! formal possession of the jM-operty, retaining, of course, actual p»»ssession and ownership. A • ertificate was given Mr. Prevost, stating that Fort (reorge, im the Cohnnbia, had been duly surrendered to him as representative of the I'nited States; and he gave the officers a written acceptance of the transfer. These formal preliminaries having been cimcliided, the British standard was lowere<l an<l the stars and stripes were temj)«)rarily displayed upon the walls of the fort, while the guns of the Blossom roared a noisy salute. The American ensign wa>> then lowered, and tlu' farce was ov«'r. The I'nited States was thus again nominally in possession of Oregon, while the actmil possessors were the agents of th«- Northwest Ctmipany, subjects of Great Britain. Fort George in 1818 was a far different structure from Astoria 1(>H msTOKY OK WII.I.AMKTTK VALLKT. as it e.\ist«Ml wIumi suriviuhTtNl to th»' Xorthw»*.t ("••mpiiny in \><\'\ A stockade of jtiin' logs, rising twrlve feet a)m*\-f the !LT«»un«l, en- con i passed a parallelogram I50x'j5«» U-*-i in diniensinns. Within this were dwellings, storehouses, niag:uines. sh«»|i(*. etr. Tile wall:* mounted two eighte«'n-|>oundeiN, six six-|"»uniler*, four four-jxtund carrona<les, two six-ponnd cohorns and seven swnvebi. an anuaineiit sufficient to rendei' it a strong foit in thoise «l.-iy>. These reiiiaine«l after the surrender, and F«irt (Tcorge \vji>. |»n»»-ti«-aHy, a* much of a British ])ost as hefore. The two governments still «'ontinue«I to nt'gtttiate on the main ])oint at issue -title to Oregon. Neither would rv>-eile fn»ni the j)ositi<ms assumed at the heginning of the ointriiversy. and t«» av«»id an open ruj)ture, and with the Iuhh- that time wouM 'ujei-t a new element into the (|Uesti(Mi, a treaty of procnistinatii-. was signe<l. By this com ention it was agree<l that all territories and their waters, west of the Rocky Mountains, should l»e free ami o|H'ii to the vessel* and to the use and occupation of the citizens and -ulijecL-. of lioth nations for the litiiod of ten yeais. that no claim **f either party should in any manner lie prejudicetl l»y this actiou. ami that neither shouhl gain any right of dominit>n l»y su-'h U'^«»r ••cvupatiou during the s])eciiied term. This treaty of joint uci-u|iatiou rvuiaineil in force, liy extension \vith nuitual consent, until the <|Uestion was definitely settled in 1S4<». On the twenty->ee«»nd of Felmiarv. 181W, the State I)e[>artment consummateil negotiations whirli ha«l been in progress for some time, completing the title of the I'niteii States ji.s defined in a previous paragraph. ThU wa.< the signing of a treaty with Spain, l»y which the ProNTnoe of Florida was con- veyed to the United States, including all the rights, claims ami pre- tensions of Spain to any territories north ami east of a line drawn from the soiirce of the .Vrkansjis, north to the forty-s*Tx»nd juirallel, and thence to the Pacific This remained the inmudar}' iK'tween the United States and Mexico, and l»etween the dUputeil laud of Oregon and the Mexican possessions west of the R«j*-ky Mountains. It still continues to he the southern boimdarj- of <>ivg<L»n, Kut leased to divide the United States from Mexic»» when C'alif*»mia, Xew Mexico and Arizona were conquered or purt-ha.<^^. CHAPTER XI. THE RIVAL FUR COMPANIES. irnncth arul Power of the Northmeftt Company — Jilvulnj hetioeen it and fhf Iliuhon'x Ihiij CoiajHitti/- -The lieil liii'tr War — Harrows' De- xcripflon nf the Ilaihiinx Bay C'oinjtanif^The C'liMtlian Voi/a- (jtarx — Fort Winroai'er J'^nandt'd Ihmn'x IK >irrlj>fi(iii of the Kort and the Methods of tht IJudKini's Bay Compain/ in <h'e<joit. THE Noitliwcst C()mi)aiiy luul now full cuutnd <if ( )ifgoii, hut a fiiTfc and bloody stnij^<rl«' wjis sjoiiig on between it ami the older Hndson^s Hay ('(»nipany, for possession «»f tlie fur ret^ions of America. The n)nij»anies had j^rown too lari;e t«> be tolerant of each other; ojje must go the wall. When Hrst organized the old company, enjoying chartered ])rivileg«'s and supreme monopoly of a vjist extent of territt>ry, laughed with derision at the idea that a few independent tradei^s could so cond»ine a-; to beccUK' dangerous rivals; but that such wjis tin; fact was tpiickly demonstrated. The Northwest Company began operations on a thorough system, by which it was soon developed into a powerful and wealthy corjK)ra- tion. All its managing agents were interested partners, who natur- ally did their utmost to swell the receipts. In the plenitude of its power it gave em[>loyment to two thousand voyageui-s, wliile its agents penetrated the wildern«'ss in all directions in search of furs. It wjis the pi(»neer of the Northwest. While the chartered monop- oly clung like a burr to its granted limits, the new organization was exploring and taking possession of that \a.st region lying l)etween Lake Superior and the Pacific, from the Missouri to the Arctic Ocean. It Inis }>een sh«nvn how Mackenzie made a journey to the Arctic and another to the Pacific, and how his footstc^jis wert- fol- lowed by Fra.ser and a post established in the extreme W(^st. While the old company wa.s sluggishly awaiting ihe advent of Indians at 70 msTOKV OK WII.LAMKTTK VAI.LKY. thf f«nv posts it had established in cciitral locations, the rival organ- ization sent its aLfcnts out t(» trade with the triUcs far and near. The result was that all the trihes, except those in the inunediate vicinity of the Hudson's liay Company forts, were ijradually won to an alliance with the youni^er and more vi<;orous or<;ani/ation. The collection of furs was so ovei'-stimulate(l that a complete e.\tincti(»n of fur-l»earin<; animals Avas threatene<l. A systt'inatic effort was being made to drive tlie old com|)any from the most valuable beaver country, and to so cripple it that a surrender of its charter woidd become necessai-y. The result of this aggressive j)olicy was to arouse the Hudson's Bay Company to a realizing sense of the precarious condition i>f affairs, and the necessity of taking energetic steps to i'ec(»vt!r the lost ground. Its effoi-ts to do this soon residted in hostile collisions between its representatives and ajients of the I'IvmI company, lead- ing to a state of war l>etween them. The first act of actual Imstilit} , other than mere trade invalry, was conMuitte(l in isoCi, when a trader of tile Hudson's Hay Com[)any was forcibly dejyrived of four hundred and eighty packs (»f beaver skins, and a few m<»nths later of fifty more. Tiie same year anolhei- trader was attacked and robbed of valuable furs by servants of the Northwest Company, and received similar treatment again the following spring. These acts of plun- dering were numerous, and since no law but the law of might existed in the wilderness, there was no redress foi- the despoiled comjtany nor puiashment for the ofTeiiders, since the lattei' were Canadians and their victims citizens of England and not possessed of facilities for securing redress in the courts of Canachi. In twelve years but one case was brought to trial, in 1<S(I!>, when a Huds<)n's Hay Com- pany man wa.s convicted of manslaughter for killing an agent of the other company who was m.'iking an attack u})on him with a sword; and this result was accomplished by the powerful influence of the Northwest ('omj)any in Montreal. In ISI'2, having received a grant of fertile land from the Hud- son's Bay Comjiany, Lord Stdkirk, a man of energy and an enthusi- ast on the subject of colonial emigration, commenced a settlement on Red Kiver near its junction with the Assiniboine, south of Lake Winnipeg. No sooner was this accomidished than the rival com- pany expressed a determination to destroy the settlement, and in THK KIVAL Frn roMPAMKs. 171 tW luitunm of 1814 litt***! out an fxix-rlition for that piirjMtsc at its chief estaltlishiiu'iit, Fort William, on th*- ^hon- of Lake Su|Hi-ior. After harassiiii; the setth-nient for >onie nioiith«i, an attack was nuuhMipon it in June, lsl5, which wa> reputed. Artillery having heen l)iou<j;ht up, the IdiildinirH of Fort (iiliraltar. the stronijhohl of tlie settlement, were iMitternl down an<l the place captureil. The "governor was s«'nt to Montreal a prisoner, the reniaintler of the set- tlers were exjtelled from the country, the cattle were slauirhtered and the l)uildinfrs demolislu-d. In the fall, however, the colonists returned with a i;i-eat acc«*ssion to their numln-rs and ai;ain estuh- lished themselves uiwh^r the leader>liip of Colin Koliertson, 'oeinjjj accompanied hy Uohert Semple, G«»vernor of the Hudson's Bay Company territories. In the sprinir <»f I sic, Alexander McDon- nell, a partner of the Northw»*st C»»nipany. collected a strong force with the design of crushing the s^-tth-nient comph tely. After cap- turing the supply train on its way to Re«l IJiver, the invading force came upon (rovernor Semph* an<l a force of thirty men all of whom tliey killed, except one who was made a prisoner and four who es- caped. The settlers still remaining in the fort. s<'eing the hopeless- ness of resistance, surrendered, and to tlie numl«'r of two hundred were sent in canoes to Hudson's Bay. They were chieily Scotch, as were also the attacking party; luit the h»ve of gain was stronger than the ties of l>lood. In 1S*21 parliament put an end to this Moody feud and ruinous i'onH)etiti(m l>y consolidating the rival n»nipanies undei- the name of The IIonoral>le Hudson's Bay Company, l»v which was created an organization far more powerful than had eitlier heen before, and Kngland gained a united and |>otent airent for the advancement of her interests in America. The settlement.* on the Red, .\ssinil)oine and Saskatchewan rivers were renewe<l, and Winnipeg l)ccaine in a few years the center of a prosjHTou-i community. The new com- ]>any took possession of Fort (reorge and «»ther j>osts along the Co- luml)ia, and as it thereafter l)ecame ch>s<-ly woven into the history of this region, a hrief descripti»m of its founding, gr<»wth and meth- ods becomes necessary to a full understamling t»f suhsecpu'ut events. 1 )r. William Barrows gives the follo\ring description of that pow- erful corporation : Its two objects, as set forth Id ita charter, were " for the discover}' of a new pas- 172 IJISTOHY OK \V I I.I.AM KTTE VALLKY. sage into the South Sra, iiini for tlie tindinn of some trjulo for fiii-s, niiiicrals and other (•i)nsi(lrral)l(' fomnioilitics.'" II may ^^•('ll ho sii><|K>('t(!(i tiiat tlu' llrst wa« the fa*'i' anil tlic second the soul of tlie cliavter, which f^rantx to the coinjiany the ex- clusive riftht of the " trade and commerce of all those seas, st^ait^s and hays, riverw, Iake», creeks, and sounds, In whatsoever latitude they shall he, that lie within the entrance of the straits commonly called lludsim Straits," and of all lands horderinj? them not undt-rany other civili/.cd }iovernmciit. This covt-red all territory within that immenHe iiasin from rim to rim, one viltra dip|>inK into the Atlantic and the other looking into the I'acitic. Throujfh tl'is vast, e.vtcnt the com|)any was made for "all lime hereafter, •.•a|iiil)le In law, to have, purchase, receive, possi-ss, enjoy, and retain lands, rents, privileire:-. liherties, jurisdiction, franchise, and heredita- ments ol what kind, nature, or (luality soever they he, to them and their sui-ees- sors." The company held that region a« a man holds his farn>, or iw the great hulk of rial estate In Kn^land is now held. 'I hey could legislate r)ver and jjovern it, houni! only hy the tenor and spirit of l^n);li^ h law, and make war I'ud peace within it; and all i)ersons outside tlu mpauy could he forhidden to " visit, hunt, fre- (juent, trade, trallic, or adventure" therein. For all this, and as a c(»nfession of allejriance to the crown as a dependent <-olony and province, they were^to pay an- nually as rent "two elks and two hiack heavi'rs." Cheap rent that, espi'cially since the kin;; or his a>;cnt must collect it on 1 e urounil of the eonqtany. To dwell in the territory or even ^(o across it would he as really a trespass as if it were done on the lawn of a privati' gentleman in Middlesex county, MuKland. Such were the chartercci ri^ihts of a monopoly that, f^rowin^ holder and more jrraspiu>r, liecame at last continental in sweep, irresistihie in power, and ine.>coral)le in spirit. In \>^-\ the crowji gnuited to this and the Northwest ('omi)any united, and for a term of twenty-one years, tlie exclusive ri>rht to trade with all Indians in liritlsh North .\merica, north .iii<l west of the I'ldted States, and not included in till' lirst charter. This granted ■nly trade, not ownership in the soil. Tlum, while the chartered territory was inn crial, it Ki't'W, hy Ki'anted monopoly of trade, to Ih' continental. Hy decrees the trappers and traders went over the rim of the Hudson hasin, till they reached the ,\rctic seas aloiij; the outlet of tliv ('op|)ermine and the ,Macken/ie. They set heaver traps on ^'ukon and Kra.ser rivers, around the .\th- ahasca, Slave and ISear liakes, and on the heads of the Columhia. l''rom the ad- jacent I'acillc shore they lined their treasury with the soft coats of the fur seal and the sea-otter. They were the pioneers of this trallic, and pressed this monopoly of fur on tile sources, not only of the Mississippi and .Missouri, hut down into the Salt Lake basin of mo<lcrn I'tah. What minor and rival companies stood in the way they hout;ht in, or cruwIuMl hy umlersellinK to the Indians. I ii'tividual eii- terprlHe in the fur trade, from New Koundlaml to N'ancouver, and from the lieud waters of the 'i'ellowstinic to the mouth of the Macken/ie, was at their mercy. They practically (ontrollcd tlie inlroduclion (>f supplies and llic ouIkomik of fm> and peltries from all the immense region lietweeii those lour points. Within the Cunatla.s ami the other provinces they lield the Indian and the I'lu- ropean ei|iially at liay, while within all this vawt unorKani/.ed wilderness, their hand over red and while man was alisolute. \\ lirst the iinijianv could ko^"'''" as it pleased, and wa> autocratic and irn'sponsilile. Kyadi'. mal ii%Mslation in Isii:!, tlie civil ami criminal government of the Camillas was made to follow the com- pany into lands outside their lirst charter, commonly called Indian countries. The (iovernor of Lower Canada liad the appoiutiiiK power of olhcials within those couiilrics hut he did not send in special men; he iippolnlcd those cennectcd with the company and on the grouml. The coni]iaiiy, therefore, had the administration 111 those outside districts in its own hands. Thus the commercial life of the ('an- adas was so dependent upon the Hudson's Hay Company that the (^-overnmcnt could THK KIVAL FIK fOM I'A MKS. 173 lit' C'oiuitcd on to |>i'oinot«^ ilie wislu-w of the compaii.y. In lirit-f, tlic uoveiiiinfut of HritiHli AiiuTimi wiih pnietically the Hu(lnon's Hay ("ompuny, and for all the privl- lejTc and monopoly whioh it enjoyed, wiflioiit seeniin^r to deiiiuiid it, tiuTi wa.n an .'iniiiial |>aynu'nl, if railed for, of " two elks and two l)la< k lieavers." This company tiuis l)ecanie a powerful oruani/.ation. Il had no rival to sliare llie Held, or waste the jtrolits in liliiiiition, or in hloody fends lieyond the rei;ion of law. ( Hxeej)! the eon fsl hetwi-ei. 'I and the Northwest (.'ompany prior to their consolidation.) It e.xtt'iided its lini's, multiplied its posts and airenls, systematized loMunniucation throujrh the immense hunting' jrrounds, 'mi/.cd lime and funds hy im-reased expedition, made many of its factories really i'.; lllications, a nd put tl:e wholi' northern interior under IJrilish rule, and yet without a soldier. Kivers, lakes, mountains and prairies were covered hy its afrents ami trappers. The while and IIk' red men were on most friendly terms, ami the lurch c-anoc and the pirojiue were seen carryinn, in mixed company. Iiotli laces, and, what was iiiore. their mixe<l proireny. The extent of territory undir this company seems almost faliulous. It was one-third larifcr than all Kuropc; it was laruer than the I'lntcd .■slates of to-day, .Maska included, liy half a ndllion of sip la re n dies. I'mm the .Ameri- can heatlijiuirters at .Montreal to the post at Vancouver was a distance nf iwciily- live hundred miles; to l-'ort .Selkirk on the ^'ukon, or to the one on (ircal Hear Lake, It wuh thiee thou.sand miles, and it waH Htill further to the rich fur seal and sea-otter on the tide wat<'rs of the Mackenzie, .lames May and Red l{i\i'r at Win- idpc^ seem near to Montreal in comparison. These distances would cumpare well with air-lim- naites from Washington to Duhlin, or (iihraltar or (^uito. On idemplates this power with awe and fear, when he re^anls the even mo- tion .-ini! solemn silence and unvarying samene.ss with which it has done its work throuu'h thai dreary 'inimal counlrv. It has h said that a hundicd years has not wants the same chan^red its hill of ^roods ordered Innn London. The company Miuskrat and heaver and seal ; the Indian hunter, unimproved, and the half-hreed iMiropean, deteriorating, want the same cuiton froods. and tiint-lock ^uns, and tolil I and K cw -u:aw> To-dav, as a hundred vi'ais airo, the do),' sleil runs out from Winnipeg for it.- solitary drive of live hundred, nr lwi> thousanil, or even three thousand ndles. It glides, silent as a spectre, over these -now lields, and tliront,'!! the solemn, still forests, painfully wanting in animal life. Kilty, seventy, un luin- drctl days it speeds idon^, and as nuiny ni).dils it camps without lire, and liH>ks i<i> to the same cold sijirs. .\t the inter\ cinntt posts the -Icd^re make- a pause, as a ship, haviiifjr rounded ( ','ipe I lorn, heaves to liefore some lone I'acitie islaml. It is the sanu- at the trader's hut or factory as when the sleduemu./s Kramlfalher <lrove np, the mime do};s, the same half-hreeds, ur rui/ni/iuii, to welcome him, the same ft)Ul, loun^iii); Indians, and the same mink skin in exchati^re for tin' same trinkets. The furauimaland Its purchaser and hunter, as the landscape, seem to he alike under the same imnnitahle .inproKres.sive law of nature, " .\ liinil wIkti' all IIiIukh iilwuyN si'i'iii llu' Kitiiie, " at* amont; the lotus-eaters. Unman progress and Indian ei\'ili/.ation have nunle scarcely more improvement than that central, silent partiu'r in the Hudson s Hay ( 'ompany— till' heaver. One feels towards the power of this company, moving thus with eveniieHS and immnlaliility lhr<iii^di a liundre<l years, much as one doe^. toward- a law of nature. .\t I'ort Selkirk, fur I'xamplc, the lll'(y-lwo nmulier- of the weekly London /'nntx I'aine in on the last sledge arrival. The firsi uuiuhcr isalready three year!<old, liy its tedious voyage from the Thames. Now one mnnher only a week is read, that the lone iradcr there may have fresh news weekly until the next annual doK-inail arrives, .iiid each >ueceHsi\e nundter is lliree years liehind li'.ie when it is opene<l! In this 174 HISTORY OF WILI^AMF.TTE VAI,LP:T. (lay of steamers and telegraphs and telephones, does it seem possible that any human, white hal)itation can ho so outside of the geoiiraphy and chronology of the world'.' 'The goods of tlie company, packed anil sliip])ed in Fcnchureh Street, leave liondon, and at the cud of the third year tliey are ilelivered at Fort (^onlidence on (Jreat Kcar I^ake, oral any other extreme factory of the company; and at the end of three yi'ars more tlu' return furs go up the 'riiuines ami intt) Fenchureh Street again. So in cycles of si.v years, and from age to age, like a planet, the shares in the Hudson's Hay Company nuike their orl)it and dividends. A run of three months and the London ship drops anchor in Hudson's Hay. "For one year,'' says Jiutler in iiis "(ireat lone Lantl," "the stores that slic has lirouglit in lie in the warehouse at Vork Factory; twelve months later they reach Ued Kiver; twelve months later they reach Fort Simps(»n on tlic .Mackenzie." The original stock of tins company was |.')t»,.sa». Ln tifty years it wu« tripled twice l>y prollts only, and went up to ^4.'")7,.'Wii, while not out' new dollar was j)aid in. In isi'l the company alisorlicd llie Northwest I'ompany of Montreal, on a hasis of value c(iual to its own. The eonsolidale<l stock then was .s|,;)l(i,(MH), of whieli .'Jil,7M(i,s()i; was from prolils. Yet, meanwhile, there had iieen an annual payment of ten per cent, to stockliolders. In 188(! (jno of the company's ships left Fort (icorge for 1/ondon. Willi !i cargo of furs valued at J:;!8(t,ll(Ml. * * * When the Kiiglisli »Hi\ernmenI, in ^s^(l, coiui'ded the claims of the I'nited States to Oregon, property of the Hudson's May Company was found within Oregon for vliicli thai <'ompanv claimeii ii4,i(!H», ((,!(), (>7. One can not hut admire the foresight, com|)ass, policy, lunl ahility with whidi tliose Englisli fur traders moved to gain possession, an<l then keep in wilderness for fur-liearing, so mui'iiof North Anu-rica. * * rravelers tell us of an oppressive, painfid silence through all that weird nortldand. tiuadriiped life, and the scanty little there is of Itird life, is not vocal, much less nuisical. This ,'ompany has partaken of the silence of its domain. It makes liut little noise for so great an organization. It says hut few tldngs. and luily the mcessary ones, ami even those with an ohscKty often, tluU only the interested and initiated untlerstai:'i. 'I'lie statements of .u works and results are mostly in the passive voice. Tlif v(>yiio;('iii's, s(» often spoken of in (connections with the fiU' eotnpjiiiies, were .i s))eeijil oiitorouth of the fiif tfiuh', and tire (leservino of more than a ])asr:ini;' notice. Irving tlnis (U'scribes them: The voyagcurs may he said to h;i\'e sjirung up out of I he fur trie!", tiaving origin- ally lu'cn employed hy the early l<'rench nu'rchants in their '.rading expeditions through the lahyriiith of rivers and lakes of tic iHtundlcss interior. In llie inter- vals of their long, arduous alid lahorious expeditions, they were wont to pass their time in idleness and revelry aliout the trading posts or settlements; s(|uandering their hard earnings in hcetlless conviviality, and rivalling their tieighhors, the IndiaiiM, in '.ndolent indulgeiicc and imprudent disregard of lln> morr<!W. When Canada passed umler lirilisli domination, an<l the old l<''rench trading houses witc broken up, the voyagcurs were for a time disheartened and disconsolate, and with dirticully could reconcile themselves to the servine of the new comers, so ditl'erent in habits, manners and language from their former employers. Hy degrees, how- ever, they became accustomed to the change, ami at length came to consider the Hritish fur traders, and esjiccially the members of the Northwest Company, as the legifinuite lords of creation. Thedrosofthe.se people is generally half civili/ed, half savage. They wear a eapot or sureoat, made of a blaid<el, a strlja'd cotton shirt, elutb truwsers or leathern leggings, moeeiwins of deer skiu,aud a belt of variegated THE RIVAL FrjR COMPANIE.S. 175 worsted, from wliich are suspended the knife, toliaeeoijouch, and other iniplciMonts. Their lanjyimKe isof tlienanie piolmld cliaraeter, l)eint; a Freneli imtois, enil)roidered with Indian and Kn^Iisli w<)r<ls!md plirases. Tlie lives of the voyafjeurH are passed in wild and extensive rovin^rs. Tlu\v .ire ^fcnerally of Kreni-h descent and inherit much of the j?aicty and lightness of lieart of thch" ancestors, heiiif; full of anecdote and Honji, and ever ready for t lie dance. 'IMieir natural ^^ood will is pr<)l)al)ly hei^iht- ened hy a connminity of adventure and hardshi)) hi their precarious and wanderinfi; life. Thev are dexterous hoatnu-n, vi^'oroiis and ailroit with tlu' oar and paddle, ami will ro\,' from niornin;; until nij,dit without a murmur. The steersman often sinffsan old traditionary French s(uik, witii some re>?ular Iturden in which they all join, keepinjj: time with tlieir oars. In the course of years tliey will gradually dis- Mi)pcar; their son^s will die away like the echoes they once awakeiu'd, and the Can- adian voya^eurs will liecoine a forjrotten race, or rememhered amon^ the poetical images of past times, and as themes for local and romantic UHsociations. Tlu- Northwest ('(»mj)any, iu IS'Jl, prior to tlu* c-oiisolidatioii, 'stiiltlislied a post oil tlif north l»aiik of the ( "oliiiiil»ia. st-vcral miles ala.v; he mouth of the Willamette. .\s this was on the |H»iiit named '■' Vaiicoiivei" liy Lieutenant liroiin;htoii, in 17'.**i, the p»»st as elii'istenecj " Foi-t \'aii((»iiver."' In lM*:i, )ii after tl le eoH- )li(lation, the hea(lt|iiartei's of the Hudson's Hay Company was removed from l*'ort (JeorLTc tt) l*\>rt N'aneouver, Iteeanse it possesse( the (h'siralth- features of such an estal>lishmeiit more fully than any other in this whole reirion. It was near the mouth of the Willamette and the efort- the center and natuial convert^iuir point of traj)piui!: partit's comiuir tlown the Cohuulii'i from the vast wihh'rness to the east, or with t!ie aiuiual oNcrlaud e.Kpress from Montreal; from the rich trappiiiir ,iri<»iiiids to the south, or from the upper coa-^t and Piio'ct Soiuid. Agriculturally, the surrouiidiiiiiH were all that coidd l>e desired, to I'aise the lai'Li'e crops (»f <frain and ves^etaldes re(piired at all the Company's posts, and to fin-nisji pasturage for the heef ami dairy cattle. It wan easily .-ippi-oachalde l»y deep-water ves.std,'* of lafLfe draft, and presented e.xcelleiil n;itural facilities fof loading and discharoinir cargo. The vessels that came at stah-d periods to lii'ing sup|tlies and (jirry away the accumulated fin-s, c(»idd spare the few days' of extra time re(piire<| to ascend the river, Itetter than the employees of the comp;uiy ••ould s|»are it in passing to and fr(»m lie.nhpiarters in flic transaction of luisiness. \'ancotiver vvaw the ni(»st eligihle site on the Columhia f»>r the chief trading jatst, and remained the company'- heaihpnirters until it altandoned this region cutirelv, in |sr..s. huring the next foui' years the company spread t)Ut in all direetiiMis, from (uliforitia \Af Alaska, ami front the I'iu:i||e 17(; HISTORY t)F WILLAMKTTE VALLKY. to the IJocky Mountains. Some idvti c-jin l»r i^ained of its power and nH'tlidds in Orciron from the followinii; desca-iption given by John Dunn, for stxcn \e:irs a el«'rk and trader <»f the company: — l''<>rl S'aiicoiivcr is tlic trniiul mart aii<l ri'udezvovis for tlio coiiiimny's trade mul wrvants (111 llic I'atitii'. Tliitlu'r all tlu' furs and othor articli-Hof trade collected m-st ciltlic Hockv M"milaiiis, fnim ( 'alifornia to tlu- lUissian tcrritorit^s, are l)rought I'roiii tlu' several oilui' Imts anil stations; and from tlu-nce they are shi|)|)ed to l'',ii;;lan<l. 'I'lullicr, too, all the piods hron^rlit from KnKland for tralth;— the variouw ariii'lfs in wouli'iis and (•(>tlons, in grocery, in liardware, ready -matle clothes, oils and paints, ship stores, etc. — are laniUd, at'd from thence they are distrihuted to the various posts of the interior, ami aloim the northern shoies liy sailing vessels, or liy lidals, or paek-horses, as tlu- several naites permit ; lor distribution and trafHc among the natives, oi' for the supply of the eonii)any's servants. In u word. Fort X'aneouvi'r is the grand emporium of the company's trade, west of the Rocky Moun- tains ; as well within the ()icj:on territory as lu'yond it, from California to Kains- tchatka. The tort is in iliesliai I a parallelogram, alioul two hundred and lifty yards long, l»y one hundre<l and llfty hroail ; enclosed l>y a .sort of wooden wall, made of pickets, or larire lieams, lixed tlrndy in the ground and elosely fitted together, twenty feet hii^li, and strongly secured on the inside liy luittresses. .\t ea'h angle there is a hastion, njouiiling two twelvi'-poiniders, and in the center there are some I'ightecn-pounde.- ; liut from the suhdin'd and pacltle character of the natives, and the long alisenec of all apprehension, these cannon have lieconie useless. The area witlnii is divided into two courts, arouml which are arrangeil ahout forty neat, strong wooden huildings, oiu' story hinh, designed for various purjioses — such as olllecs, apartments for the ( lerks and other ottlcers, warehouses for fui-s, English goods and other commoilitics : workshops for the diU'erent meelianie.s--carpenters. hlacksUMths, coopers, wheelwrights, tir.riers, etc dl of which there is the most diligent and unceasing activity and industry. There is also a school-house and <-liapel, an<i a powder inaK-a/.lne ludlt of hrick acd stone. In the center stands ihe go erin)r's rcsidern'c, which is two stories high, the (lining hall, and .he pulilie iiti ig room. All the clerks an<l otilcccs, including the cha|)lain and physician, dine lo^eiher in the hall, the governor presiding. The dinner is of Ihe most sulislanlial kiinl, consisting of several courses. Wine is fre- <|uenlly allowed, liut no Hpiriluons lii|U<>rs. Al'ier grace has heen said Ihe company hreak up ; then most of the partv retire to the pulilicsittiii;.' room, » .;!led " nachelor's Hall, reading, or telling and listening to stories of their own and others' curious advent- ures. Sometinu's there is a ureat intln.\ of company, consisting of the chief tradv'rs from the outposts, who arrive at the fort on laisiness, and tin n inlanders of vessels. These are gala limes after dinner, and there is a great deal of amusement, hut always kept under strict disci|tlliie and rcirulatcd hy the strictest nroprivty. There a/', or a lack of anecd<ite or intcrcHtinv; ntirrrtlvc; or the smokliiK room, lo amuse themselves as they please, either in smoking. is, on no occasion, cause for or, Indeed, of any itdellectual amuscmcnl ; for if smoking' an<l stoiy-le' ing he Irksome, then tin re is the horse ready to mount, ami the rille pn pared. The voy- agetir and the irapper. who have traversed lliousands of miles Ihroufzh wild and tinfre(|uenttKl regions, and the tnuriner, who ha« circumnavigated tin' glohe, may l)c found grouped together, smoking, Joking, singingand story-telling, and in every way lianlshiuK dull care, till the period c-f llnir aKaiii sell ini' out for their respective di-Atlnations arrives. The smoklii^ r<i.-m, or " Maclieloi s Mall," presents the appearance of an armory and a niusetnn. .Ml sorts of weapons, and dresses, and THE KIVAL FUR COMPANIES. 177 curiosities of civilized and savage life, and of the various inipleuients for tlie prose- cution of tlie trade, miglit l)e seen tiiere. Tlie niediaiiics, and otlier servants of the estal)lishnient, do not dine in tlie hull, or go to the smoking room. The school is for the benefit of the l>alf-l»reeil children of the oHlcers and servants of the company, and of many orphan children of Indians who have iieen in the company's enii)Ioyment. They are taught English (Honietiiiies French), writing, arithmetic and geography; imd are suiise(|nently either apprenticed to traders in C/'anada, or Itept in the company's service. The frojit scpiare is the i)lace wliere the Indians and trappers deposit their furs and other irficles, uiul make their sides, etc. There may be seen, too, great numbers of men sorting and packing the various g(K)ds, and scores of Canadians beating and cleaning the furs from tiie dust and ver- min, and coarse hairs, previous to exportation. Si.x hundred yards b«'low the fort, and on the bank of the river, there is a neat village of al)out sixty well-built wooden houses, generally constructed like those within the fort, in wliicli the mecharlcs and other servants of the company, who are, in general, Ciinadians iind Scotchmen, reside with their families. They are Imilt in rows, and present tlie aiijiearance of small streets. They are kept in a nei.t and orderly nuniiiej'. Here tliere is an hos- pital, in widch the invalided servants of the comiiany, and, indt'ed, others wlio may wish to avail themselves of it, are treated with the utmost care. Many of the otflcers of the (U)mpiiny marry half-iireed women. They discharge the several duties of wife and mother with tidelity, cleverness and attention. They are, in general, good housewives; and are remarkably ingenious as needlewomen. Many of them, liesides possessing a knowledge of lOnglish, spt'ak French correctly, and jOTssess other accomj)lishmenls; and lliey sometiines attend their husl)ands on their distant ai d tedious journeys and voyages. 'I'liese half-lneed v omen are of a superior class ; being the daughters of chief traders and factors, and other persons, high in the company's service, by Indian women of a superior descent or of superior personal attractions. Though they j.enerally dress after the Knglish fashion, according as they see it used by the Fjn;j;lisb wives of the superior olticers, yet they retain one peculiarity— the leggin or gaiter, which is nuule (now linit the tanned (leer skin has been sui)ersededi of the finest and most gaudy coloured cloth, beauti- fully ornamented with beads. The lower classes of the com])any's .ncrvanls marry native women, from the tribes of the upper country, where the women iue round- lieiided and beautiful. These, too, generally sjieaking, soon learn the art of useful liousewivery with great adroitness and readiness; and they are encouraged and rewarded in every way by thecomi)any, in their ellbrts to ac(iuire domestic economy anil comfort. These, too, iinitat(>, in costume the dress of the olllcer's wives, as much as the;, can; and from their necessities of position, wliich exposes them more to wet ami drudgery, they retain the moccasin, in place of adopting the low- i|uarfere(l shoe. .Xttached to the fort there is a magnilicent farm, consisting of altout three thousand acres, (»f which lifteen Innwlred acres have already been brought In the highest state of tillnge. It stretches behind the fort, and on both sides, along the bunks of the river. It Is fenced into beautiful corn fields, vegetable fields, orchards, garden and pasture fields, which are lnters|iersed w itii ilaliy Iiouhcs, shepherds' and herdHinen's cottages. It is plai'eil under the nmsl judicious management; and neither expense nor la'iour bas been spared t<i bring it to tlu' most pi'rtect (cultiva- tion. There is a large grist ndll, and it threshing mill, which are worked by horse- power, and a saw mill worked by water-power. .Ml kinds of grains and vegetables, and many species of fruits, are produced there in abundance and of superior (pial- ity. The grain croji.s an firoduced withntii rnanure; and the wheat crop, espec- ially. Is rei)resente(l by practical fanners to be wonderful. Besides this farm, which thej* are every day extending. the,\ have commenced 178 HISTOHY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. fitriiiinp oi) a Inrve waleon tlic Cowlitx, to the north, l'iii|M|ua. to the south, and in other |K»rt!« of the territory, where tliey liave estaltlijilieil |K«sfs», the produce of all of whicli tliey ur<<' for ex|K)rtation liotli to tlie Russia stations in Kanistchatka (at) they enter«-«l intoa ••ontntet witli the Ilussiaiis, in ls.'l!i. to supply their |)osts in those regions witli pn>vis: »ns iit lixcci j)rices), and to tlie isliinds of the Soutliern PaciHe. an«l lo Itritish and Anu'rieaii whalers and to other nierehant ships. They also kwp jw-on-s of woodH'utters employed to fell timber, whieh is s:iw»'<l up in lar^e quantities, thrti' thous4ind feet a day, and regularly ship|K-d for the .Sanilwicli Islands an.i oJher fonM^rn ports. And as they can atlord to sell the giMwIs pun-hased in Kn^larid nnder a eontraet of old HtandiiiK. tofrether with the pnHtuetions of the territor>' a'mI their <»wn farms, llsli, beef, mutton, pork. tinilnT, ete., at nwirly half the Ameriean pricv. they are likely to enjyross the whole tnide of the I'aeitie. as they do alresidy the trade of the Orepin, esjiecially sinee they eonuiuind all the ports and sjife inlets of the <M)imtry. This the Amerieans fe«d and diM-lare; an<l it is this whieh whets their eupidity and excites tlnir jealousy and hatn-*!. Trappinir |>arties leaving \ imcouver are some weeks pre|utrint; for the mountain8 and prairi»-s. The hiaeksniitlis are busily en>faKe<l makiui! U-aver-trajis for the trapiKTs. the stor«*-keepers making up articles for tiade and e<|uippini; the men. the elerk in ehanreof the provision store packing up provisions for them, to last until they Ket into hunting ground, the clerk in charge of the farm pmvidin^ horses and ttther re«|uisite artit'les*. The party nenerally consists of alniut fifty or sixty men, most ol them the eonipany's servants, others free hunters. The s^-rvants have a statetl sniary. while the Ireenu'ii receive so much per skin. I'n-vious to leaving the fort for the aniuou<i adventure, they are allowed a small <|uanlity of rum |K>r man; and they ^leuendly enjoy a ^rand holiday and feast the ni^ht previous to starting.'. Kaeh mat; luis a ivrtain number of horses, sniliclent to carry his e<|uipment. The free tmp|HTs (lenenilly jirovidc their own animals Koth the <-«im|»jtny's servants and the treenien friNjiu-ntly take their wives and families witii them. The women are verj- useful on the ex|H-ditiou, in preparinjr meals ami other n«-i-essaries for their hu.sltand^ d'lrin^ (heir aiiscucc from the camp. In sununer and winter, whether they haNe a s«irt of traveliuj: camp or a (Ixcd resideiu-e. they s«de«'t (he liM-aliticN that mtwt alHHinii in fkir-bearintr iiniiiials. ThoU);h a parly nuiy Im' olili^'e<i. from a variety of ■'ireunistanc'es, to winter In the plain, or iu the r('i'es.<<«-<< of the mountains, or on the Uiniers of lakes and rivers, sonu' mmdiers of It return to the fort in the fall, with thi- ppxluc«' of the season's hunt, and report proftrcss. and return to the camp with a n'infore«'nH>nt of necessary supplies. Thus the com|iany an- enaliled toaitpiire a ndnute knowledge of the <-ouidry ami nativt>s, and extend their (M>wer and authoritv over iMith." • CHAPTER \I1. DIPLOMACY AOAIN ENDS IN JOINT OCCll'ATION. Claim of the United Stntt'» t<> the i'tdaiiibid Hirer SpaKimxIic ('lumid- eratioii of the Oregon Qttesfitiii, in Cmnjrt'HK — The JinxKicn I'kdse—- The Monroe Doctrine — Negot'iationx in lS'2^.—ChihnH nf the f'nited States Adrtineed h;/ Mr. Rnnh — The OfipoKuxj Vhi'nnx of Great lirit- ain- Hi pfif of Mr. Rii.'ih <ind the Knylish ('oinni>.H.-:,,.iicr>> in Edch Other — Emjlainl Rijeetx Anierien'ti (.{fer if the Fiftij-jirst PuralleL and Propoxes the Forty-ninth and Cfdumhia Piver — Hush (fjf'erx the Forty-ninth to the Oeean — liejeeted and the Ncgotiii.'in/i.'^ Terminate — Mr. Gallatin Sent to London in ISi^G— Offer of the C'oitinibia again made hy Fnijland and Hejectrd- The J)o<'trint of Confiyuity — The Spanish Title ax M'ldifed hy the JS'ootka Convention — Trndiny Poxt.<< Deelared not to be Settlements hy Mr. Gallatin, a Ihelaration which Becomes a lioomeranij The Period of Joint Occii^mtinn I ndep'nitely Extended. DrRIX(i all tlu'Hc years the ( h't'ofoM iiiu'stioii \\«s iidt iifj^flcctcd in C'<>iiirn.-i.«. It was spajsniodirally disrusscd, aii<l iiimli vox- n-spundciHT w,»s harl In'tw^t'ii tlu' two uovirnnicnts on tin- «*iilijt.i't; l>ut thoiiirli iiiaiiy th'mirs wen' ])r»>|»os('(l at various tiiiu's, imihiuir was ui-tualiy (loin- t«> proiuotc Vnu'i'lcan interests in Orej^on, unless tlie li-ave of altsenee granted Captain Bonneville he eorisidi-red us an effort in that direction. Durint; these diploniatir neuntiations the I'nited States firnd\ maintained her claim t<> all the riylits, of an\ natiire what>>*M'Vcr, which Spain may have posstssed prior to »he Florida Treaty. She also nrii^ecl that the month of the Colum- hitt wan hei*s Ity the dual i'ii;ht of discovery and settlement; and, therefore, f(»llowinji' the jjeneral rule which had been observed by Kuropean nations in eoU)nizing America, all the country tributary to that river, and itn confluents, wni^ also subject t<^ her dominion. 180 HTSTOKT OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. As the C'oluml»ia ^wtt-ps northward to the fifty-first parallel, it was iirir«'<l that. h\ \]\U tith' al«»iie. the <rovernmeiit had in<lis|mtal»le riifht to the whole r»*irioii IviiiL' l»etween the fortv-see<»n<l and fiftv-first dei;re«*s »)f latitude. In 1N'J«». a rc)niniitt«*e was appointed ]\\ the IIons«» of ReprH!«»iit- atives, to inijuin- into tin- condition of the s«'ttlenients nn th«* Parifie Ocean, and tlir cxiM-^licncy of oc<-U|»yini.' the Cohiinliia Kiv«T. Thb* resulttMl in the r«'|v>rtinL' of .-i hill "for the oc«Mij>ation of the fVduni- hia, and the r»'<_Mdation of tin* trade with the Intlians in the territn- ries of the rnittHl States"; l»nt, thouirh much dis«*us!<<^l. lM»th then and the ensuinir year, the nieasjire was never pass«*d. Th»*re wen- several plans adv«K'at<N|. anionir theiii lieiniLr oiie t«i send a IkmIv of troops t'veriand t«» .M-eiipy the (lisj>uted territory, afid another to construct a chain of f«.rt^ acioss the continent, whii-h should forui a hasis of supplies and |>rote<'tion for eniiirrants. The irrvat draw- hack was the lack of eniii.Mants to he su{)i»lied and protect*-*!. The \fississippi N'alley was still hut sjtaiNely settled, and no one thoiit.rht (»f ni«»vin<.' two thousand miles across what was sup)>os«-4l to lie a re!_don of nearly impa>saMe nuiuntains and alm<»st interniinahle deserts, when the rich lands of Illinois, ^Vis^•onsin and Iowa wen- invitin^r them to make tlieir home in thedtmiain of the •• Father »»f AVateiv ■ K>iS!<ia stepiK"*! in :is a distiiihin<r element, hy the puh)ii*ation, on the sixteenth of Septendn-r, l.S'21,()fan im|H'rial ukas«\ !»y whii-h exclusive title wjis a.ss<'rt«'<l on the coast j^n far south as latitude .il**. and all for»-ijru vt-sm-ls were prohihit*-*! from approachini; within one huntlr^-il mih-v ,.f said coast, undei- pen.-dty of «-onfiscation. Pro- tests Were iuNtanilv enten^l l.y hotli (ireat Britain and the rnift^i States. Rtissia ivplyintr that her i-laim was li!is«'d upon dis«-«»ven-, exploration an«l uimuestioned occupation for a peri«Ml of tifty years- Separate netftiations were opened with Russia hy the two eonti-nd iiii; jM»wers. It was at this juncture fliat the celehrated Monroe IKk-- trine was iii-st enunciated in an otlit iai document. In his message to CouLn-ess, date«l Oecemlier •_', \>^'2'-\, l*r<si(|ent Monroe de<-larwl that the ".\mei-i,;in continents, l»y the free and independent comli- tion which tiny had a>sumed, were henceforth not to Ik- considert^l as suhjects for colonization hy any I'luropean |^twer." This ♦licitwl a formal proti-st from iHtth England and Husijia. Another «J^ii- DU'LOMACY AOAIN KND.S IN .lOlXT OCCUPATION. 181 iiK'iit, which wius pffuliarly offeiLsive to Kiii^luud, was a paptr sub- iiiitt«'(l to tht* House, on the si.xteeuth of February, l'S24, hy Gen- eral Jes,su|», in which it was |troj>o!»eil to es^tablish a chain of fortn from Council liluffx t«> the Pacific, by which "present protection wouhl Ije alTonhil to our tra«ler>; an<l at the expiration of the priv- ilege granted to Hritish subjects t«» trade on the waters of the ('«tluinl)ia, we should Ije enal»le«l to remove them from our territory, and t»t secure the whole trade to our citizens." This suggestion of a pre})aration to e.vpel her sultjccts from ( )regon l>y force of arms was exceedingly, and properly so, dista>teful to (rreat liritain, and dill much to com}»licate the negotiations which had been already entered into. The ten years' limit of joint occuj)ation had now more than half expired, and it bt-came necessary to apj)oint commissioners to again endeavor to affect a settlement. .Mr. Rush, the American comniissioner, who had ln-en an associate with Mi'. (Jallatin in ai'ianging the treaty of 1 sis, asseit^il that liy the Louisiana title the United States had undisputed claim a> far north as the forty- ninth parallel, since that had Im-cu ivct>gni/.ed Ity the Treaty of I'trecht as the boundary line between the possessions of France and Kngland, and sliotdd jnopcrly be extended to the Pacific, lie also claimed, under the Spanish title, as far north as the sixtieth }iarallel, tlu' acknowledged limit of the Russian possessions, and he declared "the I'iglits thus ac<piired from Sj»ain were regarded ))y the (Jovernment of the L'nite<l States jis surpassing the rights of all other European pt»wers oii that toast." A third claim was the one outlined ina jirevious paragraph, bas«M| tipon the (liscovery, explora- tion and occujtation of the C't»luml»ia. Assciting these three distinct titles, he made the pioposition that no futui'e scttleiiu'nts be made by subjects of (treat liritaiu s«.iith of the tifty-tirst degree, nor by citi- zens of the I'niteil States north of that j)aiallel. Mr. Rush was, however, authoiized to make a consideialtie nioditication of that proposal, since his letter <»f instructions contiiined the following words: "As. however, the line already runs in latitude 4'.>" to the Stony Mountains, should it be earnestly insisted uj)on liy (Jicat Britain, we will cons«'nt to carry it in continuance on the same parallel to the sea.'' 'IMie plenipotentiaries of Great Britain not only declined the 182 lllsTt)UY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. proposals, liut (l('iii»'<l in (<•!<» the priiiciplt* upon which it ha<l bt^n o(ft'i'<'(l, fspccially tilt' idea that no futuiv i>»louizatiMn in America should !»(' attfiii|»t('il Ity Knmpeaii iiatiou?*. They iir>-L«r<tl ;La* oM unoccupied pintions of America weiv .«ul»jei-t> of othmization, includini; the reuion on the PaciHe Coast Ivinir lieiwt^-u the fortv- second and Hfty-tirst parallel. They declare*! that Gn-at Britain could not c(»ncede to the rnit»tl Statt-s. a?, the >utT-n*«»r of S|tain. those exclusive i'ii.dits which she had >uccesf*fully iv>i«.te«l when they had been ad\anred hy Spain lierM-lf. and which tht- N«Nitka Conven- tion, in ITlMt, dedareil should not In- aduiitte«l. They al«<» denittl the title hy riijht of discoverv, clainiinir that the «li?<-oven- of the Colund)ia was a pro>jressive one. partiripat«il in nioiv c«»ns]»icuoUsly hy British suhjects than hy Ain»*ri«-ans; tluit even a<liuittinir the discovery bv (irav, In-, heiiii: :« private citizen, omhl n«»!. luen-Iv Kv enteriuLf the month of a river, train title for hi* < iov«-nini«-nt to the whole coast for hundi-eds of miles almve an«J U-Iow that |M>int. especially since the roast had In-en exploretl prior to that time Ity an official exjteditioii (Captain CiM»k's) of (irvat Britain, and a British sul)ji'ct (Sir Francis Drake) hail pun-hasei! land fr«ini the nativi's oidv a few de<frees south: that the senhiuent at Astoria was sulise(juent, or, at the hest. oidy ctieval. t«» >imil:tr M-ttlenient»» made hy British sr.l»jects npon that stream, or \i\m'U riv»-iv flo\vin<.r into it (ei-roneo.isly referrinir, perha|*». t«» the establi-hnn-nt on Fraser Lake ) To this tie United States enihassador replii^S at lenirth. asx-rtiug that Gray sailed under the tlat; ami protection of th»* Feileral (iov- ernment, whose rit-hts folh>w«Ml him; that he tva- unaware, and omld not admit the fact, of any prior or «.-onteni)Hiraneou:> iiettlernvnt l»y British subjects on the Colund>ia; that C«"»k ha<l l>e»-n |«Tvii»^i.-«| l»y Perez, Ileceta and <^>uadra, in his exploration of tlft i>«jist: and dosed by sayinir that " in the opinion uf my :r<»vemm»'nt, the title of the I'nited States to the whole of that coa.-t. from latitude forty- two degrees to as far north as latitude sixty degrees', wa>. therefore, superior to that of (treat Britain, or any other jjower: first, throuirb the jiroper claim of the Inited Stateis l»y dLscovt-ry and settlement, and sec<»n(lly, as now standinir iu the place of S|jiain. and holding in their hands all her title." The British reply tva.* a renewal of the former objections, especially to the SpaiU:>h title. «ptvial strtss Wing DIPLOMACY AGAIN ENDS IN JOINT OCCUPATION. 183 laid on the fact that Enghind never had admitted the exclusive riglitn chiiiued by Spain on the J*aciHc Coast of America, and had specifi- cally denieil and coiubatted them in the Nootka controversy; the voyage of Sir Francis Drake wjis urged us giving England the dis- covery rights prior, even, to the earliest claimed by Spain, the forty- eighth degre«' being placed as the northern limit of his voyage. It was also denii-d that Spain could actjuire title by simply sailing along the c*tast, and not following up her discoveries l»y genuine acts of possession and settlement. The response of Mr. Hush, was a denial that Drake jtroceeded beyond the forty-third j)arallel, and a reminder t<» tin- English plenipotentiaries that, even if all they claimed for Drake were triu-, England was debarred from claiming title through him by the rule laid down by them in the matter (»f Spanish e.\ploiei-s, since the title thus ac<|uired had not Iteeii per- fecte«l by acts of possession and settlement. Hy these successive statements and answers l»oth sides to the (piestion having lieen plainly s«'t forth, the repre-entatives of En- gland, rejecting Mr. Rush's proposition, made another prop<»sal — that the boundary line follttw the fortv-ninth parallel till it struck the Columbia, and then follow down the nuiin channel of that stream to the ov-ean, navigation of the river to be open to both nations. This was submitted, they said, in a ■»}»irit of compromise, though thev considered that in s<» doiiitr thev were departimr lari'elv from the fidl extent of (Jreat Britain's rights. Mr. Uu>li declare«l his utter inal»ility to accept such a pro[tosition, but tliat, actuated by the same str«»ng desire to etTect a c«)mpromise, he would agree to the fortv-ninth i)arallel clear throu<;h to the ocean, statiiii; that this was the extr«'ine limit of his .-luthority. This wjis declined, and a.s neither party would make fin-ther concessions the negotiations came to an end. In lS'Jt'», the att( inpt r-t settle this important question was renewed, ami Mr. (iall itiii. vvaf sent to London, with full jiowers to resume the discussion, 'ihe otTer of tin- forty-ninth i)arallel and the Columbia Kiver was again made by the British Commissioners, with a sop in the shape of a slice of Wi'.shington T«'rritory south of (iray's Harbor and Hood's Canal thrown in. Mr. Callatin renewed Mr. Rush's offer of the forty-ninth parallel, adding free navigation « © • (£> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // *^, V c^^ «^. <f ^^ A f/. Z ^ 1.0 I.I 11.25 1^128 iiiiii lis IIIIIM 1= U 11.6 %. ^i 7 'm •c*! V /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 15 WeST MAIN STBEET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (7^fc» 872-'(503 ^'^^\ ^ ^^/^V. <,*% £ % 7j ^ o ■X 184 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. to the sea fi-om all branches of the Columbia lying north of that line. The c-()m])lete claims and offered compromises of the two na- tions were siil)mitted in written statements, and were published in fidl in the message of President ^Vdams, of December 12, 1827. There was no essential difference in the claims made by the con- tending parties from those set forth al)ove; they wi-re simply urged in different language and with a better understanding of the sub- ject. Tlie Louisiana title was made a prominent feature by Mr. Gallatin; but the insuiJiciency of this was clearly shown by the representatives of (ji'eat Britain, who also claimed that the titles of the l'nite<l States and Spain, ^vhen taken separately, Avere imperfect, and when taken togethei" destroyed each other. Mr. Gallatin also advauceii th<' doctrine of contiguity, asserting that the populous settlements in tlie valley of t iie Mississippi constituted a strong claim to the extension of their authority " over the contiguous vacant ter- ritory, and to the occupation and sovereignty of the country as far as the Pacific Ocean." This was asserted by the British Commis- sionei*s to be the doctrine of " might makes right," and to be wholly repulsive to the principles of international law. It was maintained, and with much justness, by the English ne- gotiators tluit, since the Nootka Convention especially declared the right of both England and Spain to either of them settle upon and take possession of any portic^n of the coast now in dis[)ute which had not been pi-eviously settled upon l)y tlie other, the previous rights of both nations acquired by discovery were thus expressly waive*.!, and future titles were made to depend entirely upon acts of possession and settlement; thei'efore, in succeeding to the Spanish title, the United States had acquired nothing but the right pos- sessed by Spain to settle upon and occupy any portion of the coast not already in the actual possession of Great Britain. Mr. Gallatin denied that mere fur trading factories, or posts, could be considered settlements such as were necessary to perfect title of a nation to an extended region ; but by doing this he dis- credited the title claimed by his own Government by reason of the estaldishment by the Pacific Fur Company of a post at Astor'a; also, by a simple process of reasoning, of the discovery title claimed through Captain Gray, since that gentleman was simply a fur trader, and was not engaged in a voyage of exploration or discovery. Diplomacy again ends i.v joint convention, 185 Not being able to come to any understanding upon the main (question at issue — a definite boundary line — the negotiations were brought to a close in 1827 by the signing of an agreement indefi- nitely extending the period of joi..t occupation, making it termin- able by either party upon giving twelve months' notice to that effect. Thus was the aid of time again invoked to furnish a solution of this vexatious problem. m CHAPTER XIII. FAILURE OF ALL ATTEMPTS AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. Outlook for Joint Occupation — Comparison of the Advantages of the English and American Traders — Character of the American Trap- pers — The Hudson's Bay Company's Methods and Servants — Growth of the American Fur Trade — The American Fur Company — The Missouri Far Company — Ashley, of the liocky Mountain Fur Company, Penetrates the Rocky Mountains — Method of Conducting Trapping Enterprises — The Annual i^endesvous — Jedediah S. Smith's First Overland Journey — His Second Journey Fraught • with Disaster — His Adventures in California— His Party Massacred on the Umpqua—The Hudson's Bay Company Recover SmJth's Furs and Pay him for Them — Gray's Version 'f this Affair — The Subject Discussed — Boston's and King George's Men — Dr. McLaughliii's Account of this Episode — McLeod's Unfortunate Expedition — Ogden's Expedition to the Humboldt and CaUfornia — Death of Smith—Major Pilcher and Ewing Yoany — Hudson's Bay Company Establish Fort Umpqua and a Headqnarters in California — Bonne- ville's Trading Ventures — Tioo Eff'orts of Nathaniel J. Wyeth to Trade in Oregon Result Disastrously — McLaughlin's Remarks on Wyeth — Abandonment of Oregon by American T' rappers. THE great power and firm foothold secured iii Oregon by the Hudson \s Bay Company has been thus minutely described hi order that an adequate idea can be had of the herculean task which lay before any American company which might seek to compete with it in its chosen field. Joint occupation, as contemplated in the treaties of 1818 and 1820 was only possible, on the principle of the lion and the lamb. Americans cculd live in Oregon if they would permit themselves to be swallowed by the Hudson's Bay Company — not otherwise. The chief difficulty which lay in the FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 187 pathway of American traders in their efforts to compete with the great English corporation, was a lack of unity of purpose and com- bination of capital and effort. The Americans were all inde- pendent traders, operating alone or in limited partnerships. Sepa- rately they had not the capital to carry on the business in the sys- tematic and comprehensive manner in which the Hudson's Bay Company operated. There was an utter lack of system, unity of action or wise provision for tlie future. The trade was not care- fully fostered for future advantage, since none of them cared to build up a business for some one else to enjoy, but each sought to make all the immediate profit possible. The competition among them was ruinous to all, and in a few years the whole trade, so far as Americans were concerned, was ruined. In then* competition with the English monopoly they wei'e at a fatal disadvantage. One unsuccessful season with them was often financially disastrous, while to the great corporation, covering such a vast scope of country, dealing with so many tribes and handling such varied classes of furs, such a thing as a completely unsuccessful year was impossible. Gains in one section compensated for any losses in another. For this reason, whenever two trapping parties met in open competition for the trade of any tribe of Indians, the Americans were at a dis- astrous <lisadvantage, and, except in the few instances when they outwitted the rival trader, were forced to the wall. The agent had full authority to use his own discretion in such cases, his only in- structions being to Ci'ush his rival at all hazards. No spectre of bankruptcy shook his bony finger in his face ; no vision of an angry and distrustful partner rose up before him. He could give away every dollar's worth of goods he had, and receive the a[)proval of his superiors, provided, that by doing so, he defeated the rival ti'aders. On the contrary, the American, his entire fortune invested in this single venture, could neither afford to give away his goods nor to lose the opportunity to trade; for often it was the only one of the season, and to miss it meant ruin. In 1815, Congress, in order to aid the struggling traders, passed an act expelling foreign trappers from the territories of the United States east of the Rocky Mountains; but it remained a dead letter, since brigades of the En- glish trappers continued* to roam thi'ough the country along the Missouri and its tributaries. ^ 188 History of Willamette valley. Candor compels the confession that there were other reasons for the success of the English and utter failure of the American tradei-s; and these were the great difference in their methods of treating the natives and the character of the men engaged in the business. The American trappers were, to a large extent, made up of a class of wild, reckless and brutal men, many of them fugitives from justice. With them might made right, and Indian fighting was one of their chief accomplishments. A perpetual state of hostilities existed between them and the Blackfeet and other warlike tribes. They cared nothing for the interests of their employers, were insubordi- nate and quarrelsome, and the histories of their lives and adventures, written for the glorification of the few of the most noted of them, convince us that, as a whole, they composed the lowest stratum of American society. Irving, in one of many similar passages, thus speaks of one phase of their character: "The arrival of the sup- plies gave the regular finish to the annual revel. A grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued amonj." the mountaineers ; drinking, danc- ing, swaggering, gambling, quarreling and fighting. Alcohol, which, from its portable qualities, containing the greatest quantity of fiery spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor carried across the mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these carousals, and is dealt out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. AVhen inflamed by this fiery beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks and gam- bols, and sometimes burn all their clothes in their drunken brava- does. A camp, recovering from one of these riotous revels, j)re8ents a serio-comic spectacle; black eyes, broken heads, lack lustre vis- ages." Alcohol was a leading article of merchandise, and the annual assemblage at the points of rendezvous and the meetings with Indians for the purposes of trade, were invariabl}' the scenes of drunken debauchery like the one described. Many impositions were practiced on the Indians, and the men, being iri'esponsible and without restraint, were guilty of many acts of injustice. The Indians learned neither uprightness nor morality from contact with them, and had respect only for their bravery. The revei-se was the case with the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, who were men, chiefly half-breeds and descendants of the French settlers of Canada — the agents 'and factors being gener- ally of Scotch nativity-irwho had been reared to the business, as FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 189 had been their fathers before them, and cheei-fvilly submitted to the rigid discipline maintained by the company. It Wius the company's policy to avoid all trouble with the natives, to whom they gave no li(pior whatever. It was by pandering to the Indian's proverbial thirst for "fire-Avater" that the Americans occasionally defeated their op])onents in (lompetition for the trade of a tribe; still, it sometimes happened that after the noble red man had been hilari- ously and even pugnaciously drunk for a week on American alcohol, they sobered up sufficiently to sell their furs to the English trader, who could offer them such a gi'eater quantity of goods in exchange, and left their bibulous friends to mourn. By just and generous treatment the company sought to bind the Indians to them by a community of interest; yet an act of bad faith or treachery was never permitted' to go unrebuked. By this means it obtained an influence among the tribes covering a region over a thousand miles square, which amounted almost to the authority of govern- ment; and this influence was sufficiently powerful to cause the Indians of some tribes to not only refuse to trade with Americans, but to decline selling them provisions when in the greatest distress. Bonneville found this to be the case when he undertook the experi- ment of joint occu]»ation, and sought to do business in Oregon, the chosen field of the great monopoly. The rise and growtli of the Hudson's Bay and Northwest Com- panies have been traced till they united and spread like an octopus over the whole We^^. Let us also trace the growth of American fur enterprise until .u began to enter Oregon in competition with the united rivals. In 1762 the Governor of Louisiana, then a Province of France, chartered a fur company under the title of " Pierre Legueste Laclede, Antoine Maxan & Co." The following year Laclede established Fort St. Louis, where now the great city of that name stands, and this became the headquarters of the fur trade as carried on by the French of Louisiana. At that time the Canadian representatives of France had their general headquarters at Macki- naw and Montreal ; but Canada becoming a British Province the following year, subjects of Great Britain, chiefly Scotchn en, suc- ceeded to the fur trade of that region. After the Unitec^ States became a nation, American traders engaged in the fur trade along and west of the great lakes, Mackinaw becQming their general head- il ■■'?f 'la m '0 190 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. quarters. These men were chiefly New York merchants, the lead- ing spirit ])eing John Jacob Astor, whose ill-fated attempt to found an establishment at tlie month of the Columbia has been related. The trade as then carried on ran in four great belts. To the north was the Hudson's Bay Company; next came the young and ag- gressive Northwest Company; south of them the independent American traders operated ; and still further south was the field oc- cupied by the P^vnch. How the two English companies became consolidated and spread out over the whole region north of the Missouri and gained complete possession of Oregon, has been fully set forth. The next step was the substitution of Americans for Frenchmen at St. Louis, the natural result of the purchase of Louisiana by the Laiited States. Immediately following this event St. Louis became the goal of thousands of young men who loved the excitement and adventures of a frontier life, and of as many more of all ages who preferred the obscurity of the frontier to the seclusion of a state's prison or the notoriety of a public execution. To say the least, the society of that frontier city was far from choice. It was not long before the Americans began to be in a majority in the various brigades of trappers which roamed the plains as far west as the biuse of the Kocky Mountains, while the direction of these enter- prises fell almost entirely into their hands. The French trappers, however, never entirely disappeared, for their names are found fre- quently mentioned in all narratives concerning the trapping frater- nity. They have generally been confounded with the voyageurs and trappers of French descent who formed the bulk of the ordinary servants of the Hudson's Bay Company ; but this is an error, since the latter were the Canadian French, who had transferred their allegiance to the British conquerors and successors of their old em- ployers, while the former were the descendants of the French of Louisiana, and, consequently, were Americans. The act of Congi'ess in 1815, expelling British subjects from the territories east of the Rocky Mountains, served to stimulate the American traders. The American Fur Company, at the head of which was Mr. Astor, then operating in the lake region from Mack- inaw, began to send trapping parties further west, reaching the headwaters of the Mississippi and Missouri. Other American FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 191 traders opened tin important trade between St. Louis and Santa Fe, tlie latter becoming head(iuarters for the fur business in the region of New Mexico, then a I^'ovinee of Mexico. Up to this time the ()])erations of American trappers had not extended })eyond the base of the Rocky Mt)untaitis, except in the instance previously men- tioned, that of the Missouri Fur Company. This was a company organized at St. Louis in 18()H, stinndated by the reports of the Columbia region brought in by Lewis and Clarke, and was headed l)y Manuel Lisa, a Spaniard. Mr. Henry, a partner, established Fort Henry the same year, on Lewis, or Snake, River, just west of the summit of the mountains, and other posts were founded on the Upper Missouri. Two years later, however, these were abandoned, owing to a failure of su[)plies and the hostility of the natives. The next effort was made by General W. H. Ashley, who had long been the leading spirit in such enterprises at St. Louis, and was the senior partner of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. In 1 823 he led a partv' of trapper's up the Platte to the Sweetwater, f(jllowed up the latter stream to its source, discovered the famous South Pass (the one Fremont endeavored to appropriate to himself twenty years later), explored the headwaters of the Colorado, or Green, River, and retiu-ned to St. Louis in the fall. The next year he again entered the mountains and discovered Great Salt Lake and Lake Ashley. On the later he established Fort Ashley, and leaving one hiuidred men at that post, returned to St. Louis. From that time the Rocky Mountains were the favorite trapping grounds of the Americans. Their method of doing business was by no means sys- tematic. Each company, Avhen there were rivals, organized several brigades of trappers, sufficiently strong to protect themselves from hostile Indians, and sent them out in various directions, generally under the leadership of an interested partner. Once a year these parties assembled at a previously designated rendezvous, generally on Green River, where a settlement was made. There they met the partner who was the connecting link between them and civilization, such as it was, at St. Louis. He had come up with a train of sup- plies and packs of goods for the Indian trade, and turning these over to his partners, he loaded his train with the accumulated fiU's and conveyed them to market at St. Louis. Often furs were sent down the Miss( »uri in a nondescript boat, ;nade of bufEalo skins — a lit P4 192 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. craft of eccentric unrelia})ility. AVith the supplies was invariably a liV)eral quantity of alcohol. Whisky was too bulky to carry, and as the palates of the trappers and Indians were none too refined, sour mash and bourbon were omitted from the wine list. There was plenty of water at hand and the spirits could be easily diluted to any strength recpiired, though there were not a few who scorned to spoil their drink by putting water in it. Frecpiently two or three rival bauds of trappers assembled at the. same rendezvous, and it was not unsel(K)m that a thousand white men and two or three thousand Indians were in camp at one time. The a})pearance of the train from St. Louis was invariably followed by one of those wild debauches described above by Irving, the greatest excesses being committed by the free tra})pers, those who had been the longest in the business and had abandoned all thought of any other existence than the free and untrammeled life of the mountains. These men worked iov themselves, receiving a stipulated price for all the furs taken by them. In return for a contract given by them to sell all their furs to the company, they were allowed almost unlimited credit, which they exercised as freely as it was offered. Their heaviest expenditures were for spirits, horse, gun, traps, clothing, and gaudy adornments of every kind for their Indian women, of whom each possessed at least one. It not infi'equently happened that in a lew days their reckless excesses and their heedless gener- osity to their fair ones not oidy exhausted their balance with the company, but ran up such an enormous bill of credit that their labor for a year was pledged in advance. When it is known that some of these men, when employed on a salary, received as high as two thousand dollars a year, the full extent of their extravagance will 1)6 better undei-stood. That is a large sum to expend in two or three weeks for spirits and gewgaws. In 1825 the Rocky Mountain Fur Company dispatched Jede- diah S. Smith into the country west of Great Salt Lake, witli a party of forty men. He discovei'ed Humboldt River, which he named " Mary's River " in honor of his Indian wife, so the old trappers testify, and following down that stream crossed the SieiTa Nevada Mountains, arriving in the Sacramento Valley in July. This was undoubtedly the first overland journey to California, not- withstanding that Cronise speaks of American trappers appearing FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 193 there as early as 1820, He gives no authority for tlie statement, and there is no record of any other party liaving jx'netrated so far west; the context, also, shows that he confoun(h'd these supposi- tious early trappers with a portion of Smith's i-ouipaiiy which he left behind him when lie returned. Smith had good success, and leav- ing the majority of liis company to continue theii" o])ei'ation8, he returned to the general rendezvous on (Ireen Ri\er. He crossed the mountains on his hoiaeward journey in the \ icinity of Mono Lake, discovering large deposits of placei- gold in that region, spec- imens of which he took with him to exhibit tt> his enij)loyers on Green Rivt r. General Ashley, having made a fortune, was then ready to retire from active participation in the business. He there- fore sold his interests in the llocky Mountain Fur Company to William Sublette, Jedediah S. Smith and David .lackson. Smith again started for California in the spring of 1H2(), to rejoin the party he had left thei'e, of whose success he and his partners enter- tained high hopes. It was his purpose tojnake a thorough inspec- tion of the gold placers, tra[) through the Sacramento Valley, and with his whole party return to Green River to participate in the annual meeting the following summer. In his journey he passed as far south as the Colorado River, and, at some point on that stream, his party was attacked by Indians, who killed all except Smith, Turner and Galbraitli. Those three escaped to Mission San Ga- briel, and, notwithstanding their forlorn and distressed condition, were arrested as filibusters by the panicy Mexicans and sent to San Diego. At that point there happened to be several American ves- sels, whose officers signed a certificate that Smith was simply a peaceful trader and possessed a passport h'om the Commissioner of Indian Affairs of the United States. The certificate bears date of December 20, 1820, and was potential to procure the release of the [)risoners. He then proceeded to hunt for the men he had left the year before, and found them in camp on the x\m<^rican River, in the vicinity of Folsom, their residence there leading to the bestowal of that title upon the stream. It was his purpose to r.iturn by way of the Columbia River, but that season was one of unusual snows and ftoods, and he was unable for a long time to leave the valley. His movements are somewhat uncertain, but are partially revealed in the following letter, written by him to J"'ather Duran. The 11)4 H18T0KY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Meximiis were uneasy ahoiit the intentions of this party of armed Americans, and the wortliy Father wrote liim a letter asking for information. Smith rej)lie(l: — Hkvkhkxd Kathkk.— 1 iiiuhMHtiiiul, through thenie<liuni of some of your Chris- tian Indians, tiiat you areanxiouH to Itnov/ wi>o we are, as some of the Indians have heen at tlie luiHyion and informed you tiuit there were certain wliite people in the country. We are Americans on our Journey to the lUver Columbia ; we were in at the Mission San (ial)riel in January last. I went to .San Diefjoand sjiw the general, and pot a passjjort from him to pass on to that place. I have made several efforts to cross the mountains, but the snows being so deep, I could not succeed in getting over. I returned to this place (it l)eing the only point to kill meat), to wait a few weeks until the snow melts so Hint I can go on ; the Indians here also being friendly, I consider it the most safe point for me to remain, until such time as I can cross the mountains with my horses, having lost a great many in attem]>ting to cross ten or fifteen days since. I am a long ways from home, and «■.. nnxious to get there as soon as the nature of the case will admit. 'Jur situation is «iuite unplea.sant, l)eing destitute of clothing and most of the necessaries of life, w ild meat beingour principal .subsistence. 1 am. Reverend Father, your strange but real friend and Christian brother. " J. S. SMITH. May 19th, 1S27. Soon after this correspondence Smith started nortliward, crossing to the coa.st in the vicinity of Russian River. He continued along the coast to the Umpciua, and ^vhile ferrying his effects across the stream on a riidely constructed raft, his party wa.s attacked by Indians, witii whom they were holding friendly intercourse, and all but three were slain. Smith, Daniel Prior and one of the Indians were on the raft at the time of the attack, and when the signal yell was given the savage sprang into the water Anth Smith's gun in his hand; but he never lived to enjoy his prize, for Smith seized his companion's rifle and buried a bullet in the Indian's brain the in- stant his head appeared above water. The two men landed on the opposite side of the stream and succeeded in making their way to Vancouver, where they received a warm and sympathetic welcome. The officers of the Hudson's Bay Company would have done their utmost to have ruined his business had he come into their field with a band of trappers ; but one in his pitiable condition — his followers massacred and his furs and accoutrements i)lundered — could only excite their deepest sympathy. A few days later a third man made his appearance, more forlorn, if possible, than the others. This was Richard Laughlin, who was in camp at the time of the attack, and had seized a burning brand from the fire, with which he rained FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY TIIK AMKKRA.V.S. 195 scorching blows upon the nuked Uodics of liis jissaihints until he cleared a passage for himself and escaped. It vva.s deemed necessary hy the officers of the company to chas- tise the Indians who had l)een guilty of this unprovoked outrage, as a warning to other trihes who might fi-el encouraged to pounce down upon unwary bands of trappers; besides, the furs stolen were exceedingly valuable and ought to be recovered. It happened that Governor Sim])S(»n was at Fort Vancouver at the time Smith arrived in such a forlorn condition, and he sent out a party under "'' )mas McKay, to jiunish the Indians and recover the captured propci ty, l)oth as a necessary step to maintain the company's authority and as an act of courtesy to the despoiled trader. Accounts ' jjy tis to the degree of punishmfnt inflicted, but at all events the fiu's \\ ere recovered and conveyed to Vancouver, and since he could noi cairy them, havinj^ no means, and since the company, from a business point of view, could not afford to provide him with facilities for caiTying on opposition to it, he sold the whole lot to the company for $40,000. They were, to be sure, worth more in St. Louis, but under the cii'cumstances, this was a fair price for them on the Columbia. The most detailed account t)f this incident is given by Rev. GiLstavus Hines, who received the facts from Dr. McLoughlin in person. Gray's History of Oregon, a rabid anti-Hudson's Bay Company volume, seriously (piestions the correctness of these state- ments. It says: — The property was recovered from the Indians by giving them presents of blank- ets and powder, and such things as the Indians wished, a.s stated to us by a Frencli- man, a servant of the company, wlio was one of McKay's party tiiat went to get the furs. They found no bodies to bury, and had no fight witli the Indians about the projMirty, as stated by Mr. Sniitli, also. But, as the Hudson's Bay Company tells the story, through Mr. Hines, they spread terror throitf/h the tribes. * * * Mr. Hines says his Umpqua party returned in triumph to Vancouver! And well they raight, for they had made the best season's hunt they ever made in getting those furs and the property of Smith, which paid them well for the expedition, as there was no market for Smith, except in London, through the hypocritiml_ kind- ness of Mr. Simpson. By this time Mr. Smith had learned all he wished to of this company. He preferred giving them his furs at their own price to being under further obligations to them. Mr. Sublette, Mr. Smith's partn<;r, did not speak as though he telt under much obligation to Mr. Simpson or the Hudsons Bay Com- pany, which was not long aftc- the transaction referred to. I do not know how the company regard these sta.tements of Mr. Hines, yet I regard them as true so far as Mr. Hines is concerned, but utterly false as regards the company. * * * According to the testimony given in the case of the Hudson's Bay Company v. United States, the amount of furs seized by the company at that time was forty 190 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. packs, worth at the time $1,000 each, besides the animals and equipments belonging to the party, a larfie portion of wliich was given to the Indians to compensate them for the services rendered tlie company in destroying Smith's expedition and killing his men." It is a sufficient refutation of the above to state that the author is a nion(»nianiae on the sul)jec't of the Hudson's Bay Company and the Catholics, resultinir from the religious struggle between rival missionary establishments, with one of wliich lie was connected. No sin is too black or. crime too heinous for him to charge to the score of his old opponents. It is true that it was the company's policy to overbear all oj^position; that all Indians over whom they exercised control were strictly enjoined from dealing with in- depen<lent traders or selling them supplies; that their agents were instructed never to sup))ly such parties with food or ammunition, unless the dictates of pure humanity recjuired it, as in the case under consid(!ration ; but that it ever encouraged the thought among the natives that it ^^■ould be pleased by the murder of Americans, is not susceptible of proof, and the idea is inconsistent with the character of the men who administered its affairs <m the Pacific Coast, especially the kind and benevolent Dr. John McLoughlin, Chief Factor at Vancouver. Smith's party was the first band of American trappers to invade tlie com[)any's field in Oregon, and as their presence \Nas unsuspected, since the company had not }'et begun to operate in Stmthern Oregon and California, it is impossible that these Indians could ha\e l)een encouraged to attack them. Gener- ally speaking, the Indians of this region, save those at the mouth of the Colunil)ia, did not at that time understand the difference in na- tionality of white men, though but n few years later the appearance of Americans along the Columbia taught them all the difference between " Bostons" and " King George's Men," a distinction which wa.s carefully impressed upon them by the representatives of the Hudson's Bay Com])any, and which, in their eyes, was a most im- portant one, as subsequent events plainly indicate. To show that the company did not encourage a general spirit of hostility against Americans, though admitting, or, rather, not denying, that the tribes were urged to hold no communication whatever with Ameri- can traders, Dunn relates the following incident, occurring, proba- bly, subsecpieut to 1830: — FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THK AMERICANS. 197 On one occasion an American vessel, Captain Tlioinpson, was in the Columbia, trading for furs and salmon. The vessel had got aground in the upper part of the river, and the Indians, from various quarters, mustered with the intent of cutting the Americans off, tliinliing that tliey had an opportunity of revenge, and would thus escape the censure of the company. Dr. M'Loughlin, the governor of Fort Vancouver, hearing of their intention, immediately dispatched a party to their ren- dezvous, and informed them that if they injured one American, it would be just the same ottense as if they had injured one of his servants, and the^ would be treated equally as enemies. This stunned them, and they relinciuished their purpose and all retired to their respective homes. Had not this come to the governor's ears the Americans must have perished. Such conduct is characteristic of tlie kind-hearted Chief Factor, and it is probable that he woukl have thus acted had he been im- plicitly enjoined to the contrary by his superior officers. One thing is certain — in after years he lost the favor of the (jroveriK)r by not withholding from American settlers the aid their necessities recpiu-ed, though he w^ell knew that by so doing lie was violating the well- defined jjolicy of the company of discouraging American immigra- tion. Just when the title "Bostons" was first bestowed upon Americans, to distinguish them from the English, or " King (leorge's Men,'' is a matter of uncertainty; l)ut it was probably done in 1882, when a Boston merchant, Nathaniel J. W}eth, entered (Oregon to engage in the fur ti'ade, as will appear subse(juently. In after years all wdiite people })ecame known as " Bostons,'" with the exception of the soldiers and the priests, and this chtssitication exists at the jiresent day. Dr. McLoughlin died on the third of September, 1857, at the age of seventy-three, and a stone marks his last resting place in the Catholic churchyard at Oregon City. Among his papers was found a quite lengthy manuscript, in his own handwriting, detailing at length his acts in connection with many events, and showing how his efforts to be just, kind and generous to the settlers had not (mly failed to win him the goo>! will of many of them, or justice from the Government, but had lost him the friendship of his former fellow- officers of the IIudsf)n's iJay Company. It details (piite minutely the incident which is now under eonsideration, and it will be ob- served that the Doctor's version differs somewiiat from that of Hines or Cxray in several particulars, especially in regard to the ([uantity and value of the furs recovered. This posthiunous paper has been published in full in the " Transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Asso- m 198 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ciation,"' and will be frequently quoted from in the succeeding pages. That portion referring to the Uiup(iua nia-ssacre is as follows: — One night in Aujjust, 1828, 1 wus surprised by tlie Indians malting a great noise at the gate of tlie fort, saying they had lirouglit an Anieriwin. The gate was ojiened, the man came in, but was so affected lie could not speak. After sitting down some minutes to recover himself, he told he was, he thought, the only survivor of eighteen (18) men, conducted by the late .ledediah Snath. All tlie rest, he thought, were murdered. The party left San Francisco bound to their rendezvous ■ the Salt Lake. They a.scended the Sacramento Valley, l»ut finding no opening to cross the mountains to go eiust, tliey bent their course to the coast, whicii they reachetl at the mouth of Rogue River, then came along the beach to the Jmpqua, where the Indians stole their ax, and as it was the only ax they had, and whicli they absolutely refjuired to make rafts to cross rivers, they took the chief prisoner and their ax wa.s returned. Early the following morning. Smith started in a canoe with two (2) men and an Indian, an.i left orders, as usual, to allow no Indians to come into camp. But to gratify their passion for women, the men neglected to follow the order, allowed the Indians to come into camp, and at an Indian yell live or six Indians fell upon each white man. At the time, the narrator, Black, was out of the crowd, and had just finished cleaning and loading his rifle: three (3) Indian.') jumped on him, but he shook them off, and seeing all his conira«les struggling on the ground and the Indians stabbing them, he fired on the crowd and rushed to the woods pursued by tlie Indians, but fortunately escaped ; swam across the Umptiua and [went] northward in the hopes of reaching theColum- bia, where he knew we were. But broken down by hunger and misery, as he had no food but a few wild berries whicli he found on the beach, he determined to give himself up to the Killimour, a trilie on the coast at Cape Lookout, who treated him with great humanity, relieved his wants and brought him to the Fort, for which, in case whites might again fall in their power, and to induce them to act kindly to them, I rewardeil them most lllierally. But thinking Smith and his two men might have escaped, we made no search for them at breali of day the next morning. I sent Indian runners with tol)acco to the Willamette chiefs, to tell them to send their people in search of Smith and his two men, and if they found them to bring them to the fort and I would pay them ; and also told them if any Indians hurt these men we would punish them, and immediately equipped a strong party of forty (40) well armeo men. But as the men were embarking, to out great joy, Smith and his two men arrived. I then arranged as strong a party as I could make to recover all we could of Smith's property. I divulged my i)lan to none, but gave written instructions to the officer, to be opened only when he got to the Tnipqua, because if known before they got there, the officers would talk of it among themselves, the men would hear it and from them it wouUl go to their Indian wives, who were spies on us, and my plan would be defeated. The plan was that the officer was, as usual, to invite the Indians to bring their furs to trade, just as If nothing h.id hai)pened. Count the furs, but as the American trappers mark all their skins, keep these all separate, give them to Mr. Smith and not pay the Indians for them, telling them that they belongetl to him; that they got them by murdering Smith's people. They denied having murdered Smith's people, but admitted they l)ought them of the murderers. The officers told them they must look to the murderers for the payment, which they did ; and as the niuulerers would not restore the property they had received, a war was kindled among them, and the murderers were pun- ished more severely than we could have done, and which Mr. Smith himself admitted, and to be much preferable to going to war on them, as we could not dis- FAILUKK AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AM?:RICANS. 199 tinguish the innocent from the guilty, wlio, if they chose, might fly to the mount- ains, where we could not find them. In this way we recovered property for Mr. Smith to the amount of three thousand two hundred dollars, witiiout any expense to him, and which was done from a principle of Christian duty, and as a lesson to the Indians to show them they could not wrong the whites with impunity. Smith's report of th(^ excellence of tlie region to the south as a trup2>iiig ground aroused the company to the importance of reaping the benefit of the American trader's enterprise. Accordingly, two expeditions were sent out in different dii'ections to trap ov^er the field Smith had explored. It luis been said that the service of guides to these new beaver streams was part of the price paid by him for the recovery of his furs and traps; but a positive statement on that point is impossible. One party, consisting of forty men, completely efiuipped for a year's absence, started southward, led by Alexander Koderick McLeod, and guided by Turner. Among them were some of the men who had come out ^o Astoria Avith the Pacific Fur Com- pany, and had remained here in the employ of the Northwest Com- pany and its successor. These were Etinne Lucier, Joseph Gervais, bc)th well known to the early pioneers, iVlexaiuler McCarty, William Canning and Thos. McKay, whose father perislied in the Tonquhi. On their journey s(juthward they bestowed several of the familiar names of Southern (Oregon, such as "Jum])-off-Joe," " Rogue River," and "Siskiyou Mountain." The first was so named because of an adventure which happened to Joe McLoiighlin, vson of the Chief Fac- tor. The second was called "La Rivier (h:* Caipicain," because the Indians stole some of their traps and hoi'ses, and gave them much trouble. The last received its title because an old white, bobtailed horse, belonging to Jean Baptiste Pairroult, was stolen while they were camped on the mountain, "Siskiyou" meaning "l)obtail" in the patois French of the Canadian tra])pers. McLeod's party met with consideral)le su'-cess; but they were snowed in, early in the winter, on tlu^ banks of a tributary of the Sacramento, lost their horses, and were unable to get out of the mountains with the large packs of furs and traps. In this emergency, McKay, McLoughlin and Pairroult started on foot ^.>v ^" • jouver, to procure horses, and after much hardship and s:..itMing reacluHl headipiarters. McLeod, however, unable to procure food for his men, did not wait for the expected relief, but cached his lurs and traps, and also made his toilsome way to Vancouver. The cache was made near the eastern 200 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY, base of Mount Slia-sta, wliicli they called "■ Mt. McLoughliu." When the relief party arrived at the deserted camp, the following spring, it wa.M found that the .snow and rains had caused th^ I'iver to flood its banks, and the furs had become wet and spoiled. The stream was ever afterwards known among the trappers as " McLeod River," the name it still V>ears in pronunciation, though the orthography has been changed to " McCloud," The reason for this is, that in sound the two names are very similar, and that Ross McCloud, a very worthy and well-known gentleman, resided on the stream in an early day, though not for a (piarter of a century after it rt^ceived its baptism of "McLeod," Care should be taken by all map makers, historians, and writers generally, to adhei-e to the original orthography. The other party referred to was led by Peter Skeen Ogden, and was accompanied by Smith. They, passed up the Columbia and Lewis, or Snake, rivers, to the source of the latter, where Smith left them and proceeded to the general rendezvous of his company on Green River. Jgden continued southward un; II he reached the Hum- boldt. That stream of many titles was known among the American trappers as " Mary's River," and among the Hudson's Bay [)eople as " Ogden's River," its jiresent name having been bestowed upon it by Fremont, who had sought through that region in vain for the fabulous " Buena Ventura." Ogden passed down the stream to the "Sink," and then crossed the Sierra Nevada to Sacramento Valley through Walker's Pass. He trapped along the Sacramento, and continued northward until he reached Vancouver, sometime in the summer of IS'JU, with a valuable lot of furs. When Smith appeared at the Green Ri\er rendezvous with the tale of his manifold fortunes, he was as one risen from the dead, as his partners, having received no tidings of him for two years, supposed him to have perished. In 1880 he disposed of his interest in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, and the fidlowing year was treacherously killed V>y In- dians, while digging foi* water in the dry bed of tlie Cimeron River, near Taos, New Mexico, and was l)uried there by his companions. The second party of American trappers to enter Oregon wjis that. of Major Pilcher. They left Green River in 1828, and passed along the western base of the Rocky Mountains to Flathead Lake, where they wintered. In the s^jring they descended Clarke's Fork and the FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 201 main Columbia to Colville River, up which tliey ascended to its source and started on their return eastward. Gray says: "This party of Major Pilcher's were all cut off but two men, besides him- self; his furs, as stated by himself to the writer, foun<l their way into the forts of the Hudson's Bay Company." The writer, though not stating it positively, intends to convey the impression that these men were murdered at the instigation of the Hudson's Ba}' Company, or, at least, with its sanction. That the captured furs were sold to the company is true, but as that was the only market o[)en to the In- dians, it is a very small fotmdation upon which to lay a charge of nun-der against the purchasers. The next band of American trap- pers \vas that of Ewing Young, who had been for years a leader of tra])ping parties from Santa Fe to the headwaters of the Del Norte, Rio Grande and Colorado rivers. He entered California through Walker's Pass, in 1829, and returned the next year. In 1832 he again entered California and followed Smith's route into Oregon as far as the Umpqua, when he turned eastward, ci'ossed the moun- tains to the tributary streams of the Colund)ia and Snake rivers, entered Sacramento Valley again fi"om the north, and finally crossed out by the Tejon Pass, having been absent from Santa Fe two years. Mr. Young soon returned, and became one of the first and most energetic of the American settlers in Oregon, his death a few years later leading to the organization of the Provisional Government. While in the Sacramento Valley, in 1832, Young encountered a ))rigade of Hudson's Bay trappers, led by Michael Laframbois. Tlie company had made this one of their fields of operation, and had the year before established Fgrt Umpqua, at the confluence of Elk Creek and Umpqua River, as a base of supplies for Southern Ore- gon and Calif o) . . In 1833 an agency was establislied at Yerba Buena (San Francisco), and trapping headquarters in Yolo and San Joa([uin counties, both places becoming known to the early Ameri- can settlers as " Fi'ench Camp." J. Alexander Forl)es, the first English historian of California, and W. G. Ray, represented the company at Yerba Buena until it withdrew from California in 1S45. William Sublette and David Jackson retired from the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in 1830, at the same time as Smith, the new proprietors being Milton Sublette, James Bridger, Robert Campbell, 202 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Thomas Fitzpatrick, Frapp and Jarvis. In 1831 the old American Fur Company, which had been manaf^ed so long by Mr. Astor but was now directed by Ramsey Crooks, one of Mr. Astor's partners in the Astoria venture, began to push into the trapping grounds of the othej" company, (^reat rivalry sprang up between them, which was the following year intensified by the appearance of two other competitors in the persons of Captain B. L. E. Bonneville and Na- thaniel J. AVyeth. Captain Bonneville was a United States army officer, who had been given permission to lead a party of trappers into the fur regions of the Northwest, the expedition being counte- nanced by the Government only to tlie extent of this permit. It was supposed, that, by such an undertaking, sufficient additional information of the region explored would l)e obtained to warrant authorizing an officer to engage in a private venture. The Captain first reached the Rocky Mountains in 1 832. In 1833 he sent Joseph Walker with forty men to California over the route formerly pur- sued by Smith, and on Christmas of the same year started with three companions from his camp on Portneuf River, upon an expedition to Fort Walla Walla. His object, as given by Irving, was: "To make himself acquainted with the country, and the Indian tribes; it being one part of his scheme to establish a trading post some- where on the lower part of the river, so as to participate in tlie trade lost to the United States by the capture of Astoria." He reached Powder River on the twelfth of January, 1834, whence his journey was continued down Snake River and by the Nez Perce trail to Fort Walla Walla, where he arrived March 4, 1834. This journey, in mid-winter, was attended with its accompany- ing detail of hardships incident to the season, including the absence of game end presence of snow in the mountains. At one time they had wandered among the Blue Mountains, lost amid its canyons and defiles east of the Grand Ronde Valley, for twenty days, nearly frozen and constantly starved until they were at the verge of despair. At length a Nez Perce chief was met who invited them to his lodge some twelve miles further along the trail they were traveling, and then galloped away. So great had betai the strain upon the Captain's system in sustaining these successive days of unnatural exertion, that when the chief disappeared he sank upon the ground and lay there like one dead. His companions tried in FAILURE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 203 vain to arouse liiiu. It was a useless effort, aud they were forced to camp by the trail until he awoke from his trance the next day and was enabled to move on. They had hardly resumed their tedious journey when some dozen Nez Perces rode up with fresh horses and carried them in triumph to their village. Everywhere after this they were kindly received by this liospital>le jjeople — fed, cared for and guided on their way by them. Bonneville and his two companions were kindly received at Fort Walla Walla by Mr. P. C. Pambrun, who, with five or six men, was in charge of that station at the mouth of the Walla Walla River. This Hudson's Bay Company's representative was a courte- ous, affalde host, but when asked to sell the Captain supplies that would enable his return to the Rocky Mountains, said: "That worthy superintendent, who had extended all the genial rights of hospitality, now suddenly ajssumed a witliered-up a.spect and demeanor, and observed that, however he might feel disposed to serve him personally, he felt bound by his duty to the Huds(m's Bay Company to do nothing wliich should facilitate or encourage the visits of other traders among the Indians in that part of the country." Bonneville remained at the fort but two days longer, for his desti- tute condition, combined with the lateness in the season, rendered it necessary for him to return inuuediately ; and he started on the back trail with his Nez Perce guide, and finally reached the point of general rendezvous for his various expeditions. This is a true state- ment of the position assumed by the Hudson's Bay Company; its agents would not themselves, nor would they permit the Indians under their control to deal with or in any manner assist opposition traders; but that Bonneville traversed the (30untry in safety with but three companions, after the company was aware of his intention to return and found a rival establishment on the Columbia, is convinc- ing evidence that assassination was not one of its methods of over- coming competition, however much such charges umy be reiterated by its enemies. In July, 1834, Bonneville started on a second expedition to the Colum.,1^, with a formidable number of trappers and mountain men, well equipped, and with an extensive stock of goods to traffic with Indians. He still contemplated a restoration of American trade in this country, and designed establishing a post for that purpose in 204 TdSTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. the Willamette Valley. This time he passed the Blue Mountains by way of Grand Ilonde Valley and the Umatilla River, and upon his arrival at tlie mouth of that stream, was surprised to tind the natives shunning him. They ran from his men, hid themselves, and when intercepted, refused to have an^'thing to do with the Ameri- cans. Not a skin, a horse, a dog, or a fish, could he obtained fi'om them, having l)een warned l»y the Hudson's Bay Company not to traffic with these new comers. It now seemed a question of imme- diate evacuation or starvation, and Bonneville decided to abandon his attempt at joint occupancy. Once more he turned his back upon the Columbia and left the English company in undisputed possession of the field. A contemporaneous effort was made by Nathaniel J. Wyeth, a Boston merchant, ^^'ith eleven men who knew nothing of trapper- life, he crossed the plains to Humboldt River, with Milton Sublette, in 1832. From this j)oint the twelve pushed north to Snake River, and by way of that strt am to Fort Vancouver, where they arrived on the twenty-ninth of October. Mr. Wyeth had his whole fortune invested in his enterprise, and had brought with him a large stock of goods, such as were used in the' Indian trade. He was received with great hospitality by Dr. McLoughlin. The next spring he left for the East, a financial bankrupt, only two of his followers accompanying him. It does not appear that the company's officers contributed in any way to produce this result; but if they did not, it M-as simply because it was unnecessary to do so. Had not natural causes, the chief of which were the wrecking of his supply ship which had been sent around Cape Horn, and his utter ignorance of the business of fur trading, led to his failure, the company would undoubtedly have protected its interests as it did upon his next venture two years later. Arriving in Boston, Mr. Wyeth organized " The Columbia River Fishing and Tiading Company," with a view of continuing operations on the Pacific Coast under the same general plan that had been cmtlined by Astor, adding, however, salmon fish- ing to the fur trade. He dispatched the brig Mary Dacres for the mouth of the (Columbia, loaded with supplies and implements needed in his pi'oposed undertaking. She had on board also supplies for the Methodist Mission, to be spoken of hereafter. With sixty ex- perienced men, Mr. Wyeth himself started overland in 1834. Near FAILUKE AT JOINT OCCUPATION BY THE AMERICANS. 205 the headwaters of Snake River he built Foit Hall, as an interior trading post, the name ))eing that of one of his partners. Here he left twelve men and a stock of goods. II(^ then pushed forward to the Columl)ia and erected a fort on Sauvie's Island, j't the mouth of the Willamette lliver, which he called " Fort Will iams," in honor of another partner; and again the Amei-ican flag \va^•ed over soil west of the Rocky Mountains. The ofticers of the co.npany again received him with much hos|»itality, and though they continued to treat him with courtet^y, this did not prevent them from taking the steps necessary to protect the company's interests. Fort Boise was esta) dished as an opposition to Fort Hall, and drew the bulk of the trade of the Indians of Snake River. On the Columbia, Wyeth found that the natives were so completely under the conti'ol of the company that he could establish no business rehitions with them whatever. In two years he was com})elleil to sell all his possessions, including Fort Hall, to the rival company, and abandon this second effort at joint occupation. To this result the American Fur Coin- [)any and Rocky Mountain Fur Comj)an}' largely contributed by conduct towards Mr. Wyeth that was neither generous nor honor- able, and it was linally, with a sense of gratification, that he sold Fort Hall to the British Company, and thus gave them an im[t()r- tant post in the very heart of the trapping grounds of his unpatriotic and unscrupulous countrymen. Dr. McLoughlin's account of Mr. Wyeth's venture, as given in the document previously spoken of, is as follows: — In 1832, Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth, of Cambridge, near Boston, came across land with a parly of men, but as the vessel he expected to meet here with supplies was wreclted on the way, he returned to the East with three (3) men. The remainder joined the Willamette settlement and got supplies and were assisted by the Hud- son's Bay Company's servants, and to be paid the same price for their wheat — that is, three shillings sterling per bushel, and purchase their supplies at fifty per cent, on prime cost. In 1834. Mr. Wyeth returned with a fresh party, and met the vessel with supplies here, and t,uirted with a large outfit for Fort Hall, which he had built on his way, and in 183fi, he abandoned the business and returned to the States, and those of his men that remained in the country joined the settlements and were assisted as the others on the same terms as the Hudson's Bay Company's servants, and in justice to Mr. Wyeth, I have great pleasure to be able to state that as a rival in trade, I always found him open, manly, frank and fair, and in short, in all his contracts, a perfect gentleman and an honest man, doing all he could to support morality and eueouragiug industry iu the settlement. 206 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. In 1835 the two rival American companies were consolidated as " The American Fur Company," Bridger, Fontenelle and Dripps being the leaders. The retirement of Bonneville, and the sale of Fort Hall by Mr. Wyeth, left oidy the consolidated company and a few "lone traders" to compete with the English corporation. For a few years longer the struggle was maintained, >)Ut gradually the Hudson's Bay Company absorbed the trade imtil the American trappers, so far as organized effort was concerned, abandoned the field. CHAPTER XIV. FOUNDATION AND PROGRESS OF THE MISSIONS. Missionaries Introduce a New Element into the Oregon Question — The Fhxtheads send Messengers to St. Louis to Procure a Bible — Jason Lee and others sent by the Methodist Boards of Missions — They iMcate in the Willamette Valley — Their IHan of Operations- — Sickness at the Mission and Hostility of the Indians — Parker and Whitman sent by the American Board — Parker''s Triumphal March — He Re- turns Home and Publishes a Book — Mr. and Mrs. Whitman — Whit- man Takes a Cart as Far as Fort Boise — Missions Founded at Waiilatpu and Lapwai — Progress of the Missions of the American Board — Mission Founded at The Dalles— Advent of the Catholics — A Religious War at Once Begins — A Few Sample Incidents — Ef- fects of the Two Forms of Worship upon the Natives. THE opening wedge for American settlement and occupation of Oregon, which was the new and decisive factor time intro- duced into the Oregon Question, was the Protestant Missionaries. In despair of coming to an amicable agreement, the plenipotentiaries of England and the United States, in 1827, had continued indefi- nitely the treaty of joint occupation, hoping that something would turn up to put a new phase upon the question; and in less than ten years their expectations were fully realized, but in a manner little dreamed of by the most astute of them all. Military posts were thought of, emigrants were thought of, fur traders were thought of; but no one seemed to have thought of the earnest and self-abnegat- ing missionary — that is no one but the aborigines, whose rights and preferences had not been considered by either party to this long controversy. From licwis and Clarke the Indians of the Columbia first learned of the white man's God. They were told that the Great Spirit wor- 208 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. shi))('(l by their visitors luul made of them a powerful nation, given tht'Ui hooks, <i;ims, clotliiu';, and a thousand things the red man did not [tossess. Otlier white men wlio came hiter whettetl their ahvady keen desire to learn about this powerful (t(m1, and possess that won- derful Itook whieh he had <(iven to these strange pei»ple. One tribe was [)iesented by some irreverent trap])ei*s with a well-tluunbed pack of cards, with the assuranc- that they were the bible for which they longed; but the deeepti<»n was a brief one. Finally, in 1S32, four (some authorities say five) Flathead Indians were delegated l>y their trib(^ to proceed to St. Louis, which they believe<l to be the great center of the white man's power, and procure this all- powei"ful book and some one to teach them its contents. It was a strange ({Uest, and a stranger place in which to make it, for St. Louis then overflowed with that turbulent and ungtHlly class that in those cai-ly times swarmed along the western border of civiliza- tion. Tile messenifers were laui'hed at bv the few to whom they ap[)lied; and aftei" two of their numl)er had diet! in the city, the others set out sorrowfully on their return, without having procuretl the great book, and with their faith in its efficacy for good sadly shaken V)y the scenes they had witnesseil. One of them died on the way, yet their journey was not wholly fruitless; for their lamentations were overheard one dav by one who immediately wrote to the missionary societies in the East that there was a wide and ripe field for their labors in Oregon. The matter was taken in hand by two organizations, the Methodist Board of Missions, and the American Board of Commissioneix for Foreign Missions, a society supported })y the Congregational, Presl»\-terian and Dutch Reformed denominations. The Methodists were the first to take the field. Rev. Jason Lee was given direction of the work. Mr. Lee was l)orn in Canatla, of Ameri(!an parents, and was ordained to the ministry in the United States; yet his American citizenship has been (piestioned by secta- rian writers, who imagine that V)y doing so they gain for themselves certain pioneer honors that are justly his due. His associates were Rev. Daniel Lee, Cyrus Shepard and P. L. Edwards. When Na- thaniel Wyeth made his second journey to the Columlua, in 1884, as already related, this missionary party accompanied him. WTien Wyeth stopped to build Fort Hall the missionaries left him and L BL M if^^r^^r- FOUNDATION AND PROORE8S OK THE MISSIONS. 209 continued their journey with a hri<ra(le of Hudson's Bay ('onipaiiy trappers, under A. R. McLeod anil Thomas McKay. On the fii-st of September they reached Fort Walla WaHa, a post the Iludsim's Bay Company had establislied on the Columbia at the niimth of Walla AValla River, where the town of Wallula now stands. On the fifteenth they landed from boats at the company's headquarters at Vancouver. They were most cordially welcomed by J)r. Mc- Loughlin, who t ntertained them with the greatest hospitality. It had been their intention to locate east of the mountains, but the Chief Factor persuaded them to found their establishment in the Willamette \'alley. It has been charged that his reosons for desir- ing them to choose the latter place were that he might secure the services of one of them as teacher to children at the fort. If such was the case his motive was far from being an unworthy one; and he did the Indians no wrong, since those on one side of the mountains were as n 'ch in need of missionary labors as those on the opposite. It was a ; ^rtunate thing for the United States that he did so, for the mission became the center about which American settlers rallied a few years later, and it became an important factor in wresting Oregon from the grasp of Great Britain. On this subject McLough- lin's document says: — In 18.S4, Messrs. Jason and Daniel Lee, and Messrs. Walker and P. L. Edwards came wiih Mr. Wyeth to establish a mission in the Flathead country. I observed to them that it was too dangerous for them to establish a mission ; that to do good to the Indians, they must establish themselves wliere they could collect them around tht^m; teach t leni ♦'> cultivate the ground and live more comfortably than they do by hunting, and as they do this, teach them religion ; that the Willamette aflbrded them a fine field, and that they ought to go there, and they would get the same assistance as the settlers. They followed my advice and went to the Willamette, and it is but justice to these pioneers to say that no men, in my opinion, could exert themselves more zealously than they did till 1840, when they received a large rein- forcement of forty (40) or more persons ; then the new-comers began to neglect their duties, discord sprang uyt among them and the mission broke up. The location chosen was on the banks of the Willamette, some sixty miles above its mouth and ten below the site of the present city of Salem. They began the erection c»f a log house, H2xl8 feet, and so eager were they to begin their labors that they took posses- sion of it on the third of November in an uncompleted conf''..[ n, and received Indian pupils before the roof was finished. TLeir re- lations with the people at Vancouver were the most friendly and i •I'i 210 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. cordial. Twenty-one persons were baptized at the fort by Jason Lee oil the fourteenth of December, seventeen of them children; and he received a donation of twenty dollars to aid in his mission- ary work. They were viewed by the officers of tlie conn)any solely in their character as missionaries, their nationality and creed not beiiiii' considered ; Jmd as siu-h they received hospitable treatment and hearty encouragement in a work which was deei.ivd beneficial. They proposed not only to teach religion to the Indians, bnt to teach them to till the soil and to do other useful and productive labor, by means of which their moral, mental and physical condi- tion might be elevated. Realizing that the plastic mind of youth is the easiest moulded, they opened a school for children, and fur- nished them a house, where they could learn to read, ^vorship God and till the soil. To do this recpiired food lor their support; and it became necessary ft»r them to embark in farming in order to pro- duce it. This they l)egan the following spring, and their first harvest consisted of two hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes and a ([uantity of wheat, barley, oats and peas. To this they added six barrels of salmon, procured fi'om the Indians. In September, one year after their arrival, the first of a series of misfoitunes overtook them. An intermittent fever became prevalent, and foui' of the children died. The Indians had been watchintr their movements \\'ith considt*ral>le interest, and these sad occurrences had a powerful effect upon their superstitious natures, causing them to view with distrust the place where the Great Spirit Avas <lisplaying his disap- proval by causing the death of their childi-eu. One Indian, who had lost a little brother, paid the mission a visit with the avowed intention of killing Daniel Lee and Cyrus Shepard, but was dis- stuided from doing so l>y a companion. He gave vent to his wrath against the "white medicines" by crossing the river and killing several of his own race, presumably his wife's relations. During the fall an addition. l(»x;5"j feet, was l)uilt to the niissi(m house, and the close of the yeai- found them comfortably housed, with a suffi- cient supply of provisions and only ten jmpils under their charge, while the Indians generally entertained serious doubts of the ad- vantage of having them theiv at all. The American Uoard dispatched Kev. Sanuiel Parker and Dr. Marcus Whitman in the spring of lS;i;i, as a pioneei" committee to FOUNDATION AND l'KO«BESS OF TIIK MISSIONS. 211 examine the field and select suitable locations for missionary work. They joined a party of the American Fur Company, and ac- companied them to the grand rendezvous on Green Rivei-, where they encountered a band of Nez Perce Indians who had come across the mountains to trade with the trappers, with \\'lu)ni the tribe was on terms of wa»*mest friendship. Among the Nez Perces was a young chief who was a most ardent friend of the Americans. He possessed great eloquence in debate, and was named "Lawyer" by the whites, because of his forensic efforts. With tliis chief the missionaries had a consultation, and resolved to establish at least two missions. Accordingly it was agreed that Dr. Parker would continue the journey across the continent for tlie pui'[)ose of e.xplora- tion, so that suitable locations might be selected; he was then to leave a letter of advice witli the Nez Perces to be given to Whit- man the next year, and return home V)y sea. Tliis was decided upon because the peculiar characteristics of the two uwn were such as to prevent cordial co-operation. Dr. Wliitman was the very soul of energy and devotion to duty, caring nothing for appearances or the opinion of others if they stood between him and the object to which he had <levoted his life; while Dr. Parker seems to have l»een a self-important man to whom a little notoriety was extremely soothing. Dr. Whitman, accompanied by two young Nez Perces, returned to the Ea.st to procure the necessary assistance for the two missions to be founded. Dr. Parker resumed his journey westward on the twenty-second of August, and when he entered the Nez Perce country received such an ovation from the delighted Indians as must iiave gratified liis vanity in the highest degree. No white man before or since was ever received by the natives of the Columbia with such cordial- ity and ceremonious tlistinction as greeted Mr, Parker on liis way to Fort Walla Walla. His approach to an Indian vilhige was the occasion of general display of savage grandeur and hospitality. Here was one who had come t( tell them of that unseen and myste- rious power which had done so many wonderful things for the white man ; and they hoped now to learn how to worship that (Tieat Spirit of whom they had heard their first white \isitors speak, and wlio, they hoped, might smile upon them and nuike them wise and lK)Vverful. With this thought they leceived the missionai'y every- 212 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. where wntli uutstretehed arms and demonstrations of unbounded jt>v. He Ijeld religions services in several places, and to a degree indueteil Lis eager neophytes into the mysteries of the white man's religion. He reached Fort Walla Walla on the fifth of October, reeeiving a cordial welcome from P. C Pambrun, the gentleman in charge. A few days later he passed down the Columbia in a boat, {\nd during the winter enjoyed the hospitalities of Dr. McLoughlin a' Vjuicouver. In the spring he returned east of the mountains and miu\e c journey through the Nez Perce, Spokane and Colville countries, after which he embarked from Vancouver for the Sand- wich Islanils, and thence for home, ' iriving in 1837. He soon after published an account of liis travels, which was of special value at that time because of the deep interest the people were beginning to take in the ( )regon Question. Dr. A\'hitman, Avith his two Indian companions, reached Rush- ville, N. v., his home, late on Saturday night, and his presence there. instea<l of in the lieart of the Rocky Mountains, was first knoMTi Avhen he walkeci tiuietly into church the next morning \Nnth his copper-hued friends, his mother starting up with a cry of ih- t*>nishment and joy. During the winter all his an'angements \k^ere made, including his maiTiage in February, 1836, with Miss Nar- cissa Prentiss, daughter of Stephen H. Prentiss. Mrs. Whitman was a woman of refined nature, rare accomplishments of voice and manner, of connnanding ]>resence, firm in purpose and an enthu- siast in the line of her accepted duty. In this cause her deepest sympathies had been enlisted, and she cheerfully yielded all her fair prospects among friends and kindred, and devoted her life to isolation in a coimtry so far away that the very name conveyed to the mind a sense of loneliness and mystery, and where a martyr's irrave wjis awaiting her. She was born at Pittsburg, N. Y., March 14. 18(18, and v/as therefor^ Vmt thirty-nine years of age when merciless and ingrate hands crowned with her death the sacrifice of her life. Marcus Whitman, M. D., was born September 4, 1802-, at Rusliville, X. Y., and at the age of forty-five offered up his life on the altar of duty. These t^vo, accompanied by Rev. H. H. Spalding and wife, a lady of much firmness of character and devo tion to duty, and W. H. (iray, set out on their westward journey under the escort of a pai'ty of the American Fur Company. With FOUNDATION AND PROGRESS OF THE MISSIONS. 213 the party were Major Pilcher, an independent trader previously alluded to, and Sir William Drummond, an English nobleman traveling under the alias of " Captain Stewart " and accompanied by a companion and three servants. The missionary party took with them three wagons, eight mules, twelve horses and sixteen cows, besides farming utensils, blacksmith and carpenter tools, seeds, clothing, etc., to enable them to become self-supporting At Fort Laramie all the wagons but one were abandoned, but Whitman in- sisted upt)U taking this one for the ladies to ride in ; the trappers also concluded to try the experiment of wheels in the mountains, and safely took a small cart to the grand rentlezvous on Green Kiver. Here the missionaries met Nathaniel J. Wyeth on his return home from his second unfortunate effort to test the virtues of joint occu- l^ation in Oregon, and they were by him introduced to McKay and McLeod, the two Hudson's Bay Company agents who had escorted Jason Lee two years before, and who were about to I'eturn to Van- couver from a trapping and trading tour. Nocwithstanding the urgent objection of the trapjDers and their assurances that it was impossible for a wagon to pass through the mountains. Whitman insisted upon taking the vehicle along; but when he reached Fort Hall he was compelled to reduce it to two wheels, and at Fort Boise they insisted upon an entire abandonment of it. Nevertheless, he had demonstrated that wagons could cross the Rocky Mountains, and was satisfied that the remainder of the route presented no more formidable obstacles. They were met on tlie route by a band of Nez Perces who had been informed in the spring 1»y Dr. Parker of their expected coming, and their reception \vas only less impressive than had l)een that of their herald, whose failui'e to do anything for them had served somewhat to cool the ardor Avhich his appearance had raised to fever heat. Mr. Pambrun gave them a hearty wel- come to Fort Walla Walla on the second of September, which was repeated by Dr. McLoughlin a few days latei- when they landed from the company's boats at Fort Vancouver. Leaving the ladies to enjoy the ht)spitalities of the fort, the three gentlemen returned to Walla AV^alla, and, with the aid of Mr. Pam- brun, sought for suitable locations for their pro])osed missions. It was decided to locate one among the Cayuses and the otluM- among the Nez Perces. The former was located at Waiilatpu, ou the 214 HISTORY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLEY. Walla Walla Rive)*, six miles west <if the present city of Walla Waila, and was taken charge of by Mr. and Mrs. Whitman. This was known as the ' AVaiilatpu," or " Whitman, Mission," the former name signifying "the people," being the proper title of the Caynse tribe. Mr. and Mrs. Spalding founded the " Lapwai Mission " among the Nez Perces, at a place on the Clearwater River a few miles from the site of Lewiston, Idaho. Mr. Gray rendered material aid in constructing the two posts, and assisted the two principals in their missionary laboi-s. The next year, it l)eing deemed advisable to extend the field of their operations, Mr. Gray returned East, to procure the necessary means and additional aid to accomplish that purpose. He was accompanied by four Nez Perces, who took a large band of horses with them, the price of which they intended to contribute to the Mission fund. On the Platte River the paity was attacked by Sioux Indians, their horses stolen ami the four Ne/ Perces killed, }h . Gray barely escaping with his life. He returned in 1)S;?H, with Rev. E.Walker and wife. Rev. Gushing Eells and wife. Rev. A. B. Smith, Mrs. Gi-ay, and Cornelius Rogers. With the party came Captain John A. Sutter, the honored pioneer of the Sacramento Valley. They brought with them fourteen cows of a superior breed, l)ut at Fort Hall were persuaded to leave them and accept in their place an order for a similar number to be delivered them l)y the agent of the Hudson's Ray Company when they reached their destination. They failed to fully appreciate the beauties of this transaction until after their arrival at the AVhitman Mission in Septend)er, and wit- nessed the efforts of an expert vaquero to catch some of the wild heifers roaming with the herds belonging to the company. The following brief and accurate account of the Missicms of the American Board is taken from Rev. Myron Eells' book, entitled " Indian Mis'^ions," and carries them up to the time when the Amer- ican settlers organized a government in Oregon, from which time they will only be considei'ed in connection with concurrent events. Mr. Eells says: — On the arrival of this mission reinforcement, Mr. Gray was ussociated with Mr. Spalding. Mr. Smitli was first stationed with Dr. Whitman, but the next year lie opened a new station at Kamiah, sixty miles from Lapwai, among the Nez Perces, and Messrs. Walker and Eells likewise began another station among the Hpokanes, ut THhimakain, six miles north of the 8iH)kane River, in the spring of 1839. The FOITNDAtlON AND PROORKSS OF TIIK MISSIONS. 215 first few years of the niission were quite encounitring. OwiiiK jjiirtly to tiie novelty, the Indians seemed very anxious to lahor, to learn at scliool, and to receive religious instruction. In 1H87, as soon as a scliool was opened at La])wai, Mr. Wpalding wrote that a hundred, hoth old and young, were in attendance. As scon as one had learned something more than the others, they would gather around him, while he would become their teacher. In 1889 one hundred and fifty children, and as many more adults, were in siihool. Similar interest was shown in religious instruction. They sometimes spent whole nights in repeating over and over what they had but partly learned at a religious service. Two years later l.<J(Nk to 2,0iMl gathered for religious instruction. Then 2,(MK) made a pul)lic cojifession of sin, and promised to serve God. Many of them evidently did so with imperfect ideiis of what they were doing, yet not a few were believed to give evidence of convei-sion. Among the Cayuses, also, more were ready to attend schitol than the mission family could sup- ply with books, or had ability to teach. Morning and evening worship was main- tained in all the jiriiu'ipal lodges, and a confession of sin was made scmiewhat similar to that among the Nez Perces. For a time, when Dr. Whitman or Mr. .Spalding traveled through the country, they were followed by hundreds of Indians, eager to see tliem and hear l$ible truths at night. They had a strong desire for hoes and other agricultural implements, and were willing to i)art with any property they had, in order to obtain them, even bringing their rifles to be manufactured into such articles. From eighty to one hundred families pli.nted fields near Mr. Spald- ing, and many near Dr. Whitman raised enough provisions- for a comf<u"table sup- ply for their families. In 1838 Mr. Spalding reported that his field produced :i,(RH( bushels of potatoes, besides wheat and other articles. In the year 1841 a saw and grist mill were erected among the Nez Perces, and a grist mill among the t'ayuses. At Kamiah a large part of the Indians gave up their roving habits for a time, and remained most of the year at home, and the Spokanes received Messrs. Walker and Eells with glad- ness. In 1837 a church was organized, and in September, 1838, the first Indian was received into it; though, in .luly previous, two Indian girls, who afterwards died in Mr, Spalding's family, gave evidence of conversion, and were baptized as the first fruits of the work. In November, 1839, .loseph and Timothy, Nez Perces Indians, were admitted to the church. In 184(t Mr. Eells reporte<l a school of eightj- scholars. In 1839 the mission received a donation from Hev. H. IJingham's church, at Hono- lulu, Sandwich Islands, of a snuUl printing press, with types, furniture, paper, and other things, of the value ot |4oO. The same church had, the year before, sent eighty dollars in money and ten bushels of salt to the Oregon mission. Mr. E. (). Hall, a printer at the Saiulwich Islands, on account of the health of his wife, came with the press, and the first book printed west of the Rocky Mountains, so far as known, was issued that fall in the Nez Perces language. This added nevi' interest to the school, and other books in the same language, and one in that of the Spo- kanes, followed. Mr. and Mrs. Hall remained until the sjjring of 1840, when they returned to the Sandwich Islands. But the novelty gradually wore ott", and discouragements began. The natural heart naturally resisted the truths of the Bible, and some of the S])okane chiefs led in the opposition. In 1838 two Ronum f'atholic ])riests arrived, spoke against the missionaries, and persuaded some of the Cay u.ses to be baptized by them. Others afterwards came, established a mission among them, and one of the lioiiiau Catliolic Indians instigated some others of the tribe to treat Dr. Whituian and Mr. Gray with much insolence and abuse, to destroy some proi>erty, and to denumd jjayinent for the land, timber, fuel and water which had been used. But by moderation and firmness, and with the aid of the Hudson's Bay Company, the Indians afterwards 216 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. admitted their puilt, and peace wiw apparently restored. In 1841, Mr. Smith, after sufTerlng no little annoyance from the wavaye manners of the Nez Pereea, on account of the failure of his own and his wife's health [lie had located amonj? Ellis' band of Nez Perces in 1.S3!), and the following year was pr., vented from cultivating any ground under pain of death, at the command of Ellis himself], left that mission and Oregon, and joined the mission at the Sandwich Islands. He subsecjuently returned to the Eastern States. In his oi^inion the Indians were pharisaical, and desired to make money out of the ndssionarles. By February, 1S42, affairs seemed so discouraging that the Board of Missions concluded to give up the stations among the ("ayuses and Nez Perces, and Kev. J. D. Paris and Mr. W. II. Rice, wlio had been sent to the mission by the way of Cape Horn and the Sandwich Islands, having reached the latter place, were induced to remain there temporarily, an arrangement which was afterwards maile permanent by the Board at Boston. The roving habits of the Indians, and the decrease in the attendance on the schools, increased the trials. H(;nce, Messrs. Sjialding and Gray were to return East, and Dr. Whitman was to join the Spokane Mission. In the fall of 1842, however, affairs took a more favorable turn : the Spokane Indians showed more tlioughtfulness and conscientiousness ; the school at Lapwai increased to an average of eighty, and afterwards to over 20); 1,(M)0 Nez Perces attended a series of meetings for nine or ten days, seven of whom were examined for admission to the church ; the Cayuse Saljbath congregations varied in the spring from 200 to 400, in the fall from -'M to 2(10, and less during the rest of the year. The two Nez Perces received into the church four years previous, and some others of whom hope was entertained, stood well as Christian workers ; and there was abundant evidence that the truth was exerting a restraining influence over most of the Indians. Some of them w^ere beconnug more settled, so that ')0 Cayust and 1.50 Nez Perces families cultivated from a quarter of an acre to five acres each ; one Nez Perces chief raised 176 bushels of peas, 100 of corn, and 300 of potatoes. Mrs. Spalding had taught a few of the Nez Perces women to knit, card, spin, and weave, and a large number to sew. « * « * * « It was also beconnng evident that more Americans were soon to come into the territory, and they would need something other than Roman Catholic preaching. All these things determined the missionaries in the fall of 1842, to continue all the stations, notwithstanding the instructions received from the Board at Boston, until the matter could again l)e reconsidered. These, and other considerations relating to the possession of the country, to which reference will afterwards be made, rendered it expedient, in the opinion of the mission, for Dr. Whitman to return East. He did so, leaving Walla Walla October 3d, 1842, and reaching Boston March oOth, 1843. He made such representations that the Board ratified the action of the nds- sion, in continuing all the stations. After transacting inii)ortant business at Wash- ington, and visiting his friends, he returned to Oregon. He left the western fr ntiers of Missouri, Jlay 31st, and after a short time overtook a company of about H emigrants, some of whom, wlien he was in the East, he had promised to aid, . iDUld they deterndne to go to Oregon. This journey was successfully made, and iht ilrst train of emigrant wagons rolled through to the Columbia River. The Methodist mission, founded by Jason Lee in the Willamette Volley, and which had met with such misfortune by sickness, was reinforced by Elijah White and wife, Alanson Beers and wife, W. K. Willson, Annie M. Pitman, Susan Downing and Elvira Johnson, FOUNDATION AND PROGRESS OF THE MISSIONS. 217 who sailed from Boston in July, 1836, and reached their destination the following May. The scourge of fever still afflicted the mission, and it consequently bore ill repute among the Indians of the Wil- lamette, in spite of the most earnest and conscientious efforts of Mr. Lee and his associates to win the good will of those for whose ben- efit they had made so great a sacrifice. In the fall of 1837 Rev. David Leslie, Rev. H. K. W. Perkins and Margaret Smith were added to their force of missionary laborers. Their field of opera- tions was enlarged in the spring of 1838 by the establishment of a mission at The Dalles, under the charge of Daniel Lee and H. K. W. Perkins. To do this required money, if they would continue their plan of operations. The Protestant method of working em- braced the instruction of the Indian in the methods of procuring food and clothing by his own intelligent effort, so that he might not experience those alternate seasons of feasting and famine to which he was subjected when relying solely upon the products of nature. They sought, also, to destroy his ro\ing habits by trans- forming him from a hunter to a farmer. Jason Lee accordingly started East to procure the necessary financial aid, accompanied by P. L. Edwards, F. Y. Ewing and two Indian boys. During his absence Mrs. Lee died, also Cyrus Shepard, who was teaching school at the Willamette Mission. Mr. Lee returned in 1840 with a party of forty -eight persons, eight of them being clergymen, and nineteen ladies. From this time the history of the missions be- comes so closely interwoven with that of the settlements, that no further effort will be inade to keep it distinct. A new element was introduced into the mission field in 1838, in the form of two zealous Catholic priests. Rev. Francis N. Blanchet and Rev. Modest Demers came overland from Montreal with the regular express of the Hudson's Bay Company, reaching Vancouver on the twenty-fourth of November, 1838, and having baptized fifty- three persons while voyaging down the Columbia. They came pre- pared to stay, and not without having received a cordial invitation. The servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, such, at least, as were of Canadian descent, had a natural leaning toward the Catholic church, which had been the one to administer to the religious wants of them- selves and parents, whenever they had been fortunate enough to come within the radius of Christian worship. When the Protestant mis- tJls HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTP: VALLKY. sionaries appeared it caused them to long foi' the pivseuee of the pious fathers; not with that insatiable longing which hm its source in the deepest fountains of our nature; they simply preferred, in case they were to enjoy religious privileges at all, to liave those with which tliey most naturally symi)athi/ed. Not only did they feel thus themselves, but they told the Indians that there were other and l^etter missionaries than those who had settled amongst them, men who wore long black gowns an<l who would teach them the true religion. This created a natural desire among the tril^es to have these holy men come among them, a desire shared by the <.)fficers of the company, who naturally preferred that religion which Avould meet with the most favor among their servants and the In- dians, and which was taught ])y sulgects of Great Britain. This ^vas the reason Avhy the society of Montreal sent out Fathers Blan- chet and Demers, and why the advent of the " Black Gowns," as they were called by the Indians to distinguish them from the Prot- estants, Avas not unexpected by the natives. The coming of Catholics was the signal for the commencement of a contest for spu'itual control of the Indians, whose ^errible results will be seen as this narrative progresses. For this both parties to the controversy were to blame. They were all firmly set in their religious convi<,'tions, and intolerant of opposing or differing opinions to the highest degree. Embued by the loftiest of motives themselves, they did not possess sufficient charity or liberality to ascribe equally exalted purposes to their opponents. This spii'it is exhibited to the present day in the rancorous writings of certain participants on either side, in which they do not hesitate to charge upon their adversaries crimes for which the scaffold and peniten- tiary are the only adequate penalty ; or motives and conduct, which, being proven, would cause them to be shunned and despised by every honorable man. It is but a continuation of that sectarian rivalry, that battle of religious creeds, which has existed since first primitive man began to worship his shadow as a manifestation of some intangible and mysterious power, and which has caused so much bloodshed, misery and horror in the world, and will not end until man judges his fellow man more by his motives and deeds, and less by his purely religious opinions. A few instances will suffice to show the existence of this spirit FOUNDATION AND IMiOOUESS OK THK MISSIONS. 219 on both sides — a determiiiatioii to impress upon the Indians the fact that their particular creed and fc rm of wt)rship were tlie only true and potent ones, and that all others were both false and harmful. The Catholics were the chief aggressors in this respect, the more energetic and crafty in undermining their opponents, but it was not entirely lacking with the other side ; and it must V)e admitted that in the matter of subsequent acrimonious writings, the Protestants lead the van. The first jnin was fired and the nature of the cam- paign outlined })y Dr. Parker when he fii-st entered the country, and long before the Catholics appeared in the field. At the mouth of the Alpowa Creek, on Snake River, he came upon a burial party of the Nez Perces, who " had prepared a cross to set up at the grave," and ])ecause the symbol of the crucifixion offended his sight, and he feared it would make, as he expresses it, "a stepping-stone to idol- atry," he took " the cross the Indians had prepared and broke it in pieces." As the Catholics had not yet appeared in the field, they consequently "didn't know they were hit"; and this incident is of interest only to show the spirit of religious intolerance which held possession of Dr. Parker, and which subsequent events proved to also pervade his successors. When the Catholics appeared they found the Protestants well entrenched, and they had either to attack them there or enter new fields. They did both. Theii- plan of operations is outlined by Father Blanchet, wdio, in after years, wrote thus of the duties of the missionary priests: — They were to warn their flocks against tlie dangera of seduction, to destroy the false impression already received, to enlighten and confirm the faith of the waver- ing and deceived consciences, to bring back to the practice of religion and virtue all of them who had forsaken them for long years, or who, raised in infidelity, had never known nor practiced any of them. * * * In a word, they were to run after the sheep when they were in danger. Hence their passing so often from one post to another — for neither the white people nor the Indians claimed their assist- ance in vain. And it was enough for them to hear that some false prophet (mean- ing a Protestant missionary) had penetrated into a place, or intended visiting some locality, to induce the missionaries to go there immediately, to defend the faith and prevent error from propagating itself. Here is a direct statement from the Archbishop at the head of the church, that it was the Catholic plan to counteract the influence of the Protestants where they had already located missions, as well as to hasten to any new point they might select in order to prevent the founding of others. The first overt act of this kind was com- 220 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. mitted at Nesqually, only a few months after their arrival. Blanchet says: — Rev. The first mission to Nesqually was made by Father Demers, who celebrated the first maas in the fort on April 22, [1839], the day after he arrived. His visit at such a time was forced upon him by the establishment of a Methodist mission for the Indians. » * * After having given orders to build a chapel, and said mass out- side of the fort, he parted with them, blessing the Lord for the success of his mis- sion among the whites and Indians, and reached Cowlitz on Monday, the thirtieth, with the conviction that his mission at Nesqually had left a very feeble chance for a Methodist mission there. The priests introduced a novelty in the shape of a picture by some ingenious artist. It was a representation of a large trt^e, with many branches, and the different Protestant sects were shown as ascending the trunk and going out upon the various branches, from which they dropped into a lire, the l)laze being fed by a priest with the heretical books of his roasting victims. This tickled the Indians immensely, and among the Nez Perces it seemed about to capture the whole tribe. As an offset to this, Mr. Spalding had his wife paint a number of illustrations of prominent Bible events, and this colored panorama soon crowded the Catholic cartoon from the field. Thus was the contest waged for several years. In 1841, the Cas- cades Indians were won away from the The Dalles Mission in spite of Mr. Waller's strenuous efforts to hold them. This same Mr. Waller gave expression to his feelings on doctrinal points by cutting down a cross erected by the Catholics at Clackamas village. There was one thing which gave the Catholics a decided advan- tage among the natives — the use of symbols and ceremonies. Mr. Blanchet says: /'The sight of the altar, vestments, sacred vesseh, and great ceremonies, were drawing their attention a great deal more than the cold, unavailable and long lay services of Brother Waller." These were more akin to their own ideas of religion than the simple services of the Protestants. The mystery was fascinating to them, and they preferred to see the priests " make medicine " to hearing so much " wa-wa " from the ministers. By thus working upon the superstitious nature of the savages, and making no effort to suddenly change their old habits and time-honored customs, the Catholics gained a firm hold upon them, and were thus able, gradually, to bring about the desired change. ■ The Protestants, on the contrary, endeavored to accomplish too much at once, and having no censers FOUNDATION AND PROGRESS OF THE MISSIONS. 221 ^ w J. to swing, or imposing vestments to wear, could gain but slight influence over the natives when their opponents were about. There was also another distinction the Indians recognized, and one which gradually led them to entertain a spirit of bitterness and hos- tility against the Pi'otestants. This was their affiliation with the American settlers, whose presence was highly distasteful to the Indians, the reasons for which will be developed as the narrative progi'esses. CHAPTER XV. AMKRICAN EMKIRANTS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. E a I'll/ Aihocaten of Oreijon K mUj ration — Effnrts of Hall J. Kelleij — The American Society for the Settlement of Oregon Territory — It Meiaorialize» Congress and Advertises fur Emigrants — Wyeth, Kelley and E'lciny Yonng come to Oregon — Earliest American Settlers— McLoiit/hliu's Acconnt of Settlement of French Prairie — The Wil- laiiutte Cattle Company — Pojtulation of (Oregon in ISJ^O — First Ejf'ort at a Govern ment — Settlement at Willamette Falls- -Radical Change in the Policy of the Hudson's Bay Company as Hegards Set- tlers — The Companifs Daep Txiid Plan — Attitude of the Comjxiny and its Chief Representative — Dr. JJcLoughlin Considered — Reasons for the Bitter Feelings Entertained by some Americans — Dr. Mc- Loughlin's Statement of His Conduct and the Treatment Received from both English ami Americans — A Itad Showing for the Grati- tude of some Americans — Classification of the Popxdation as Regards Interests — Reasons for Desiring a Gavcrnment — A Petition Sent to Congress in ISJfi — First Meeting to Form a Gwcernm^iit — Death of Ewing Youiuj Leads to the Organization of o Oovernment —The Officers Fleeted — Failure to Form a Constiintionr Tlie Wilkes Ex- pedition^ The Wolf Meeting — The First T^a'd'.tive Committee — Organization of the Provisional Government - 'iTic First Officers — Condition of the Missions — Antagonism of the Indians to Ameri- inn Settlers- Dr. White Induces the Nez Perces, Wascopums and Cay uses to Adopt a Code of Laws. TO the missionaries belongs the cietlit of opening the route to Oregt»n and encouraging that large emigi*ation of hardy pio- neers of the Mississippi Valley which vvat* the element to finally decide the Oregon Question in favor of the Unite^l States. This was not their object when they left then* Eastern liouies, but was simply the natural sec^uence of events. Emigration to Oregon was AMK1UCAN8 OKOANIZK A I'KOVIblONAL (JOVEKNMKNT. W M tj conjiitleretl ami advorutt'd long bt't'ore then* was any thought of founding missions, but it was deemed inipractieabh*, and remained to be so considered until the missionaries and their wives <lemonstrated that the intervening mountains and deserts presenteil no l»arrier which might not be overcome even by delicate ladies. It then be- came but a matter of time, not a question of possibility, when emi- gi'ants should lieat a well-W(»rn trail to Oregon. The fii-st recorded instance of an effort to induce emigration to seek the far distant coast of Oregon, was in l.slT, when Hall J. Kelley, of Boston, advocated the immediate occupation of the coun- try in dispute by American settlers. At that tinie the rnited States was making hei' first genuine effort tt) regain possession of the Col- umV)ia, and was negotiating with Great Britain <m the (piestion of the restoration of Fort George, or Astoria. Mr. Kelley became an enthusiast upon the su])ject, and continued his exertions throughout the subsequent years of diplomatic negotiation. In lH:>i> he organ- ized a company which was incorporated by the Legislature f>f Mas- sachusetts as " The x\merican Society for the settlement of the Oregon Territoiy." This society presented a memorial to Congress in IH'M, setting forth that they were " engaged in the work of opening to a civilize<l and virtuous population that part of Western America called Oregon." Among other statements, the memorialists said: " They are convinced that if the country should be settled under the auspices of the United States of Ameri(?a, from such of her worthy sons who have drunk the spirit of those civil and religious institii- tions which constitute the living fountain and the very perennial source of her national prosperity, great benefits must result to man- kind. The}' believe that there the skillful and persevering hand of industry miglit ))e employed with unparalleled advantage: that there science and the arts, the invaluable privilege of a fi'ee and liberal government, and the refinement and ordinances of Chris- tianity, diffusing each its V)lessing, would harmoniously unite in ameliorating the moral condition of the Indi'i.ns, in promoting the comfort and happiness of the settlers, and in augmenting the wealth and [tower of the Republic." They further stated "that the coun- try in question is the most valuable of all the unoccupied portions of the earth," and they believed Providence designed it "to be the residence of a people ^vhose singular advantages will give them un- 224 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. exanipled power and prosperity." They continued : " That these things * * * have settled in the policy of the British nation the determined purpose of possessing and enjoying the country as their own, and have induced their Parliament to confer on the Hudson's Bay Company chartered privileges for occupying witli their settlements the fertile banks of the Columbia. * » * Already have the} flourishing towns, strong fortifications and culti- vated fields. * * * Their largest town is Vancouver, which is situated on a beautiful plain, in the region of tide water, on the northern bank of the C<»lumbia. * * * Every- thing, either in the organization of the government, or in the busy and various opeiations of the settlements of this place, at Walla Walla, at Fort Colville and at DeFuca, in(?.'cate the intention of the English to colonize tlie country. Now, therefore, your memorial- ists, ' ! behalf of a large number of the citizens of the United States, would respectfull}' ask Congress to aid them in carrying into opera- tion the great purposes of their institution; to grant them troops, artillery, military arms and m\initions of war for the security of the contt*m plated settlement; to incorporate tlieir society with the power to extinguisii the Indian title to such tracts and extent of territory, at the mouth of the Columbia and the junction of the Multnomah with the Columbia, as may be adequate to the lauda- ble objects and pursuits of the settlers; and with such oiLn' powers, rights and immunities as may be at least e pial and concurrent to those given by Parlia.nent to the Hudson's P>ay Company; and such as are not repugnant to the stipulations of the contention, made between Great Britain and the United iStates, wherein it was agreed that any country on the Northwest coast of America, to be westward v»f the Hocky Mountains, should be free and open to the citizens and subjects of the two powers, for a term of years; and to grant them such other rights and privileges as may cvui tribute to the means of establishing a respectable and prosperous community." Congress did not see fit to encourage this scheme of coloniza- tion ; and it may well be said tliat, had Congress been relied upon, Oregon would inevitably have become a dependency of Great Brit- ain. That Itody of concentrated national \visdom lagged several years in the rear of the line of progress, and it was only by constant effort that through it the people were enabled to have their victories TT AMERICANS ORGANIZE A I'KOVISIONAI. (iOV KItN M KNI". :■_'.) finally recognized and ratified. This halting and dilatory conduct of the national legislature placed the acquisition of Oregon in con- stant jeopardy. The society, however, which had constituted Mr. Kelley its general agent, continued its efforts despite the supineness of Congress. Tn l<s;n a pamphlet was published ^^ntitled — " A general circular to all persons of good character who wish to emi- grate to Oregon Territory." The region covered by that designa- tion is defined in the head lines and opening paragraph, which read: "Ore(jon Skiti-emknt. — To be commenced in the spring of iSj2 on the delightful and fertile banks of the Colun.bia River. It has been for many years in serious contein[)latioii to settle with a free and enlightened but redundant population fnmi the Amer- ican Republic that portion of her territory, called Oregon, bound- ing on the Pacific Ocean and lying l)etween the forty-s^'cond and forty-ninth parallels of N. latitude." It was well known by every intelligent man that the Ignited States claimed as ta. north as the Russian l>oundary at fifty-four-forty, but that forty-nine had been offered as a compromise line; and it is probable that the society thus defined Oregon within the limits generally believed at that time it would eventually assume. The cry, "fifty-four-forty-or- fight," had not then ))een heard, nor had tht people as yet been aroused to such a pitch of interest in this subject. That was re- served for the time when negotiations were again resumed, prior to the settlement of the (piestion in 1S4(>. The pamphlet gave the names of thirty -st^ven agents of the society, to whom persons de- siring to emigrate should make application for proper certificates and full infoi'mation ; and these assents were h^cated at various points throughout the Union. One of these wjis Nathaniel J. Wy- cth, wiiose unf(»rtunate fur and salmon ventures on the Columbia have been related. It was arranged for the expedition to start from St. Louis in March, 1 S;{2, with a train of v^agons and a good supply of stock. A town was to l)e laid out at the junction of the Co- hnnbia and Multnomah, and each emigrant was to receive a town lot and a farm, also, a lot in a town at the mouth of the Columbia, these places being already platted on paper. The failure of Con- gi'ess to take any action in the matter ended the colonization scheme for that year. Mr. VVyeth, it will be remendiered, crossed the country with a small party of Boston men, and returned the next TT •2-2i\ IIISTOIJY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY year. H»- a«rjiin visited the Cohinihia in 1834, accompanied hy Ja- sim Lee's party of missionaries. Mr. Kelley had undertaken to send a ^?lliJt loaded with sup})lies to the Cohini])ia, l)Ut unsuccess- fully. He then endeavored to open a route of trade through Mex- ico; liut in that country the revenue officers pounced upon his ir»KKls and confiscated the gi'eater portion of them. He still perse- veretl, and falling in with Ewing Young, the independent trader whose ojierations c>n the coast have been related, persuaded him and s»'veral others to accompany him to Oregon. They reached Vancouver October 15, IXJU. Mr- Knlley's health failed him, and he departed for home the following March, having lost !}>.'}(»,(>< 10 in liis effort.s to colonize Oivgon. Mr. Young, and others who had come with Mr. Kelley, or with AN'yeth's party, remained after the departure of those gentlemen — among them were James A. O'Neil, T. J. Hiib])ar(l, Courtney M. AValker and Solomon Smith. There were also tAvo men of French descent — Joseph Gei'vais and Etinne Lucier — who had come out with Wilson G. Hunt's party, and whose sympathies were Ameri- can. All told, aside from the missioniU'ies, there were about twenty- five men in (Jregou who were favorable to the United States, most nf them being mountaineers with Indian wives. Four of the inde- j>endent settlers were .John Turner, George Gay, John Woodwortli and Dr. Bailey, the sui'vivors of a })arty of nine, which left Califor- nia in the summer of 1835 for Oregon. The other's were Daniel yy. 11 iiiier, Saundei's, an Irishman called " Big Tom," a man whose name is unknown, anil a squaw. Turner was one of the survivors of the I'mptjua massa -re of 1828. The incidents attending their arrival are thus related by Hon. J. W. jVesmith, who had them from the lips of the survivors: — The party had forty-seven head of good horneH and a eomplete outfit for trai)i)ing. About the middle of June, 1835, the party enciniped for the night near h place known as "The Point of Rocks," on the south bank of Rogue River. Early the next morning the ludianK commenced dropping into camp, a few at a tiiiie. Oay wati nn guard, and not liking the appearance of the Indians, awoke Turner, who wa-s the leader of the party, and the latter conversed with t\\" savages through liis si|uaw, who spoke Chinook. Turner concluded that thei^ wa« no haini to l>e apprehendtHl from their dusky visitors, and, forgetting the fearful massacre v.hich he so narrowly escajKHl with Smith's party seven years before, near the UmiMiiia, the party bi-car.ie careless. In the meantime, some four or five hundred Indians had assembled in and about the camp of the little ,)arty, and at a 8i<: '>d furiously attacked the white men with clubs, bows and arrows and knives. 1 he AMEKICANS OKOAMZK A IM{OVI810iVAL OOVKUNMKXT. 'li attack was so sudden and unexpected that the Indians obtained three of t)\e eight guns with which Turner and liis party were armed. The struggle of the trappers for life was desperate and against fearful odds. The eiglit men seized wliatever tiiey could lay their bands on for defense. 8"me of them discharged their rifles in the bosom of their assailants and then clubbed their guns and laid about them with the barrels. Turner, who was a herculean Kentucky giant, not being able to reach his rifle, seized a big flr limb from the camp ttie and laid about him lustily, knocking his assailants right and left. At one time tlie savages had Oay down and were pounding him, but they were crowded so thick as to impede the force of their 1)1owm. Old Turner, seeing Gaj''s peril, made a few vigorous blows witli his limb whicii released him, and the latter, springing to his feet, dealt fearful cuts, thrusts, slashes and stabs with his long, sharp sheath-knife upon the naked carcasses of the dusky crowd. The other men, following Turner's and Cray's example fought with tlie fi'ergy of despair and drove the Indians from their camp. Dan Miller and another tranrnr were killed upon the spot, while the six survivors of the melee were all mo, Ipss seriously wounded. While the flght was going on, the H((uaws drove • ii' ' i.erd of horses and carried off' all of the baggit,e and can)i)-ei|uipage, togetlier ui'. ,: thne rifles. Three of the r<?nuvining guns '..ere rendered useless by having their stocks broken ott" in the ciubbing process. The six badly wounded survivors took to the brush and kept the Indians at buy with tlieir two renuiining rifles. Hy traveling in the night-time and hiding in the brush in the day-time, they man- aged to elude the Indians, l)ut sutiered terribly from their wounds and for want of provisions and eh)thing. Dr. Bailey had received a fearful wound from a tonia- liawk, which split his lower jaw from the \wh\i of the chin to tlie throat. From want of proper treatment, the parts never properly united, uud nuiry old picmeev will recollect the unsightly scar that liisHgured his face for life. Haunders' wounds disabled him from traveling, and he was left of. the (South Unipiiua, and "Big Tom" was left on the North Fmpqua. The Indians subset|uently reported to Dr. Mc- Loughlin that l)oth men had died of their wounds wliere they were left. Turner, Day, Woodwortb and Dr. Bailey, after reaching the head of the Willamette Valley, (iiflered about the route. Turner mistook the Willamette for the (Joluml)ia. Gay, in his sea voyar^ s, hud seen a map or chart shoving that the (Columbia ran west, and determined tc tcii.e due north in search of the great river, uj)on the banks of which he expecttKi ■ i ti ! .' .udson's Bay trappers and traders. Turner, Bailey and Wood- worth folio I'i. -I', u : >ie Willamette River until, in a famishing condition, they Htruck the >iet.,o'.o' i.,i.-<sion below Walem. Gay kept along the foot-hills on the west side of the vai.y ^ id crossed the Kickreal about where Dallas now stiinds, and crossed the Yamiiiil Iliver at the falls near Lafayette, pu. sing along on the we.st «i('" of Wapatoo Lake, and 'Tossing the Tualatin Plains, leacl^-d Wyeth's 'rading l)ost on Hauvie's Island some time in August. Before separatiLg from his compan- ions, (iay had cut up his bucikskin breeches to make moccasins 'or the party, an<l made the most of the journey in a naked condition, with the exception of the tattered remnants of an old shirt. The mos(iuitoes necriy devoured him in the <'<)lu!nbia i)ottoms. This perilous trip of nearly fiOO miles was made nearly flfty years ago, and was a terrible test of the endurance of a miked, wounded, and starv- iiifr man. There m u iiowever, other Ht'ttleis tluiii tlie Aiiiericiius. In 1H28, Sir George Simpson, Governor of the IIiulson'H Bay Company, \"ho was then on an official visit to Fort Vancouver, took possession of the Willamette Falls, for the purpose, as expressed by him, of 228 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. locating there a colony of their retired servants. It had previously l)een the policy of the company not to permit settlements to be made by theii' servants whose term of contract had expired, since they deemed theni detrimental to the preservation of this region as a fur- producing wilderness. They wanted no settlements here whatever, neither British nor American. This move at Willamette Falls was not pei'sisted in, l>ut a few years later some of their ex-servants located about Champoeg, oi- French Pvairie, in Marion county, and became quite a flourishing colony; and : •'^ their desc*^ndants live to the present day, useful and industriou ^ens. On tlie subject of the first settlements in the valley, Dr. McLough- lin's posthumous manuscript has much to say. The Etinne Lucier, spoken of by him, is the one mentioned above. He first settled on the east side of the AN'ilhunette, opposite the city of Poi-tland, where he lived several yeais I before remo\nng to French Prairie. The Doctor says : — In 5824 I eame to this country to superintend the management of tlie Hudson's Bay Coinpuny's trade on tlie coast, and we came to the determination to abandon Astoria, and go to Fort Vancouver, aa it was a place where we could cultivate the soil and raise our own provisions. In March, 1825, we moved there and that spring plante<l potatoes and sowed two bui^hels of peas, the only grain we had, and all we had. In the fall I received from New York Factory- a bushel spring wheat, a bushel oats, a bushel barley, a bushel Indian corn and a quart of timothy, and all of which was sown in proper time, and which produce well except the Indian corn, for which the ground was too poor and the nights rather cool, and continued extending our im- provements. In 1828, the crop was sufficient to enable us to dispense with the im- portation of Hour, etc. In 182.5, from what I had seen of the country, I formed the conclusion from the mildness and salubrity of the climate, that this was the finest portion of North America that I had seen for the residence of civilized man, and aa the farmers could not cultivate the ground without cattle, and tus the Hudson's Bay Company had only twenty-seven (27) head, big and small, and as I saw at the time no possibility of getting cjittle by sea, and that was too exi)ensive, I determined that no cattle should be killed at Vancouver except one bull calf every year for rennet to make cheese, till we had an ample stock to meet all our demands, and to assist settlers, a resolution to which I strictly adhered, and the first animal killed for beef was in 1838; till that time we had lived on fresh and salt venison and wild fowl. From morality and policy I stopped the sale and issue of spiritous licjiior to the Indians, but to do this eft'ectually I had to stop the sale of liquor to all whites. In 1834, when Mr. Wyeth, of Boston, came, he tiegan by selling liquor, but on my assuring him that the Hud- son's Bay Company sold no liquor to whites or Indians, he immediately adopted the same rule. In 1828, Etinne Lucier, a VVillamett« tripper, asked me if I thought this would become a settled country. I told him wherever wheat grew, he might depend it would become a farming country. He asked me what assistance I would afibrd AMKRIOANS omJANIZE A PROVISIOXAL OOVKRXMKNT. « w t' him to settle as a farmer. I told hiiu I would loan him seed to sow and wheat to feed himself and family, to be returned from the produce of his farm, and sell him such implements as were in the Hudson's Bay Company's store, at fifty per cunt, on prime cost. But a few days after he came back and told me he thought there was too remote a prospect of this becoming a civilized country, and as there were no clerfi;ymen in the country, he a^ked me a passage for his family in the Hudson's Bay Company's boats, to which I acceded. He started in September to meet the boata at the mountain ; the express came in too late and he had to return, and went to hunt for the winter. In 1829 he again applied to begin to farm. I told him that since he had spoken to me I heard that several trappers would apply for assistance to begin to farm, and that it was necessary for me to come to a distinct understanding with him to serve as a rule for those who might follow. That the Hudson's Bav Company were bound under heavy penalties to discharge none of their servants in the Indian country, and bound to return them to the place where they engaged them. That tills wi»jj done to prevent vagabonds being let loose among the Indians and incite tliem t:^ hostility to the whites. But as I knew he was a good, honest man, and none but sucli need apply, and as if he went to Canada u . unfortunately died l)efore his children could provide for themselves they would Ijc, )me objects of pity and a burthen to others. For these rea.sons I would a.ssist him to settle. But I must keep him and all the Hudson's Bay Company's servants whom I allowed to settle, on the Hudson's Bay Company's books as servants, so as not to. expose the Hudson's Bay Company and me to a fine, but they could work for themselves, and no service would be exacted from them. Many of the Canadians objected to go to the Willamette, because it was to become American Territory, which I told them it would, as the Hudson's Bay Company in 1825 otHcially informed that on no event could the British Government claim extend south of the Columbia, and that they were afraid they would not have the same ach'antages as American citizens. I told them from the fertility of the soil, tlie extent of prairie and tlie easy access from the sea, that the Willami'tte (they must admit) was tlie best and only place adapted to form a settlement whicli would have a beneflcial effect on the whole country north of 8an Francisco, where we could assist and protect tliem from the Indians in case of difficulty, -^nd as to advantages 1 did not know what they would have, but this I knew, that the An-crican Uovern- ment and i)eople knew only two classes of persons, rogues and lionest men, that they pu!iished the first -ind protected the last, and it depended only upon them- selves to what class tliey would belpng. Others wanted to go and live with the relatives of tlieir wives, but as their chil- dren would be brought up with tlie sympathies and feelings of Indians, and as the half-breeds are in general leaders among Indians, and they would be a thorn in tlie side of the whites, I insisted they should go to the Willamette, where their cliildren could be brougnt up as whites and Christians, tnd brought to cultivate the ground and imbiied with the feelings and sympathies of whites, and where they anil their mothers would serve as hostages for the good behavior of their relatives in the interior. As Indians judge of whites by themselves, and I think if they injure whites on their lands, the whites would revenge it by murdering their Indian rela- tives among them, and as the settlement increased by the addition of Indian women half-breeds, ■ lie turbulence of the Indian tribes would diminish; and certainly the Cayuse war would not have been nuelled so easily as it was if other hall-breeds had not joined the Amerii^ans; and I have great pleasure to be able to say, what must be admitted by all who know them, that the Canadian trappers and lialf-breeds who have settled as farmers, are as peaceable, orderly, neighborly and industrious a set of men an any in the settlement ; and that so far the Canadian settlement has •»;{() IIISTOKY <»K WIM.AMKTTK VAIJ.KT. produced and supi)lied three-fourths of the grain that has been exported. [Every pioneer will lieartily endorse this eulogy of the people of French Prairie.] I made it a rule that none of the Hudson's Bay Company's servants should be allowed to join the settlements unless he had fifty pounds sterling l»efore him, as he recjuired that sum to supply him with clothing and implements. He tliat begins business on credit is seldom so careful and industrious as he who does business on his own means. By this I effected two objects— I made the men more saving and industrious, and attached them to their farms. Ff 1 had not done so, they would have abandoned on the least diflrtculty. But having their means invested on their improvements, they saw if they abandoned the loss would be theirs, they therefore j)ersiHted and succeeded. When the settlement was formed, though the American trappers had no mesins, they were assisted on credit, and nil in three years paid up from the produce of their farms. The presence of American settlers was extremely distasteful to the company; not simply because they were Americans, hut because they were American setthu's. Tlie officers of tlie company were instructed not to enccmrage tliem in any way. It stood ready to sell to the settlers at a high price, but not to pinvliase from them anything whatever. They were without cattle, excei)t a few rented to them by the company, and until they possessed them could not be or feel inde[)endent of the overshadowing corporation. To I'emedy tliis evil, Young and Jason L"e (who never let the fact that he canu> to Oregon simply as a missionary prevent him from advanc- ■ng American interests whenever possible), set on foot a scheme to [)roeure a supply of cattle from the vast herds grazing about the Spanish Missions in California. The effort was opposed by the coni})any, but with the aid of Lieutenant William A. Slocum, an officer of the United States Navy, who advanced money and gave a free passage to Califoi'uia in liis vessel to those who went after the cattle, it was completely successful, and "The Willamette Cattle Company '' was organized. The party which went to California was under the leadership of Mr. Young, and was composed of P. L. Edwards (who kept a diary of the expedition, whicli is now pre- served in the State Library at Sacramento and numbered 23,989), Hawchurst, Carmichael, Bailey, Erequette, DesPau, Williams, Tib- betts, (ireorge (ray. Wood, Camp, Turner, and enough others to make a company of about twenty men, all inured to the dangers and privations of mountain life. They collected a band of seven hundred cattle, at three dollars per head, and, with much labor and difficulty, succeeded in bringing six hundred of them into the valley. They AMIMMC.WS (HKIANMZK A IM{(;VISI()N A I. (ioVKItVMKXT, •j;n had much trouble with the Indians on Siskiyou Mountain and along Rogue River, and Gay, without any foundation, charges the com- pany with stirring up the Indians to cut them off. The fact is, as Edwards' diary [dainly shows, the trouble grew out of the unpro- \'oked nnu'der by one of the party of an Indian who visited their camp on Klamath River. Turner, Gay and Bailey were three of four survivors of the Amei-ican trapping party which had been attacked on Rogue River two years before, and shot this Indian in a spirit of revenge. It is certainly difficiflt to trace any agency of the company in this affair, or to assign any other cause than wanton murder for their trouble with the Indians. The arrival of the cat- tle was hailed with joy by the settlers, as it guaranteed them com- plete independence of the company, and demonstrated that Ameri- cans could settle in the Willamette Valley with an assurance of being self-supporting. Such is the version of the cattle question, as it come,s from Amer- ican sources. . Dr. McLonghlin gives quite another tone to it. His document says: — Every settler had as much wheat on loan as he wanted to begin with, and 1 lent them each two cows, as in 1825 we had only twenty-seven head, big and small, old and young. If I sold they would of course be entitled to the increase, and I would not have the means to assist the new settlers, and the settlement would be retarded, as those purchsisers who offered me two hundred dollars for a cow would put such a price on the increase as would put it out of the power of poor settlers to buy. This would prevent industrious men from settling. For these reasons I would not sell, but loaned, as I say, two cows to each settler, and in case the increase of settlers miglit be greater than we could afford to supply with cattle, 1 reserved the right to take any cattle I required (above his two cows) from any settlers to assist new settlers. To the Methodist Mission, as it was a public institution, I lent seven oxen, one bull and eight cows with their calves. In the beginning, several settlers lost cattle, poisoned by eating water hemlock. It has been said by the late Mr. Thurston, Delegate from Oregon, on the floor of Congress, that settlers paid for dead cattle. This is a wanton falsehood, as it is well known to all old settlers that no settler paid a cent for dead cattle. It was a loss to the company. In 1836 we found means of forming a company to go to California for cattle. I took half the stock for the Hudson's Baj' Company, so that by purchasing a large number (as the expense of driving five hundred or a thousand was the same) as it would make the cattle cheaper. Those of the settlers that had means i)ut it in the stock ; those that had none, engaged as drivers at one dollar per day, to be |)aid in cattle at their actual cost. Mr. Slocum, who came here in a chartered vessel, gave them a passage gratis from this place to San Francisco. Mr. Ewing Young was se- lected to conduct the party. Mr. P. L. Edwards, who came with Messrs. Lee, of the Methodist Mission, but now a lawyer in California, was appointed I'reasurer. They brought, 1 think, about seven hundred hea^l of cattle, which Rost eight dollars per head rendered. In the Willamette, the settlers kept the tame and broken-in fi •2:\-2 IllSTOISY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLKY. oxen they had belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, and gave their California wild cattle in the place, so tliat they found themselves stocked with tame cattle which cost them only eight dollars j)er head, and the Hudson's Hay Company, to favor the settlers, tooli calves in place of grown-up cattle, because tlie Hudson's Bay Company wanted them for beef. These calves would grow up before they were re- ((uired. At the close of 1^37, the iiulepen(h'nt popuhition of Oregon con- sisted of forty-nine souls, about equally divided between missionary attaches and settlers. With l)ut few exceptions the arrivals during the next two years were solely of persons connected with the various missions, whose advent has already ))een noted. Those coming in 1831) were. Rev. J. S. (ii-itfin and wife, and Mr. Munger and \v\le, who liad made an unsuccessfid effort to found an independent mis- sion on Snake River, and Ben A\'right, Robert Shortess, Sidney Smith, Lawson, Reiser, (xeiger, and Rlair, a blacksmith. By add- ing the following list of arrivals in 1840, to those previously men- tioned, the population of Oregon at that time will be (piite accu- rately listed. Ml", (iray thus suiumarizes the arrivals of that sea- son : — In 184(»— Methodist Episcopal Protestant Mission— Mrs. JiCe, second wife of Rev. Jason Lee; Ilev. .1. H. Frost and wife ; Rev. A. F. Waller, wife and two children; Rev. W. W. Kone and wife; Rev. G. Hines, wife and .sister; Rev. L. H. Judson, wife and two children; Rev. ,1. L. Parish, wife and three children; Rev. G. P. Richards, wife and three children; Rev. A. P. Olley and wife. Laymen — Mr. Geo. Abernethy, wife and two children ; Mr. H. Campbell, wife and one child ; Mr. W. W. Raymond and wite; Mr. H. B. Brewer and wife; Dr. J. Ij. Bai)Cock, wife and one child ; Mrs. Daniel Lee ; Mrs. David Carter : Mrs. Joseph Holnian ; Miss E. Phillips. Independent Protestant Mission— Rev. Harvey Clarke and wife ; P. B. Littlejohn and wife ; Robert Moore, James Cook, and James [Travers, according to Judge Deady,] Fletcher, settlers. Jesuit Priests — P. J. DeSmet, Flathead Mission. Rocky Mountain men witli native wives— William Craig, Doctor Robert Newell, Joseph L. Meek, George Ebbert, William M. Dougherty, John Larison, Geo. Wil- kinson, a Mr. Nicholson, and Mr. Algear, and William Johnscm, author of the novel, "Leni Leoti, o The Prairie Flower." The subject was first written and read before the Lyceum at Oregon City, in 1843. He classilies the population as follows: Amei'ican settlers, twenty-five of them with Indian wives, 30; American women, 33; children, 32; lay members, Protestant Missions, 13; Methodist Min- isters, 13; Congregational, O; American Physicians, 3; English Phy- sicians,!; Jesuit Priests, including DeSmet, 3; Canadian French, 00. Total Americans, 137; total Canadians, including Priests, 63; total population, not including Hudson's Bay Company operatives, AMKKICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL OOVKRNMKNT. 233 33; within what now is a portion of Montana, and all of Idaho, Wash- ington and Oregon, 200. Up to 1839 the only law or government administered in this region was the rules of the Hudson's Bay Company ; hut that year, deeming that there must be some authority which the settlers would respect, the Methodist missionaries designated two persons to act as magistrates. This was d(me entirely without the co-operation of the settlers, l)ut the action received their endorsement, or, at least, was generally acquiesced in. Several cases came before these officers for adjudication, the most important being the trial of T. J. Hub- bard for murder, he having shot a man who was attemi)ting to enter his cabin throuLch the window. The maj^istrate was Rev. David Leslie. The prisoner was acquitted l»y the jury. Settlements were made at this time with reference to the possi- ble division of the country on tlu' line of the Colum])ia River, all Americans locating south of the stream, and none l)Ut British sub- jects north of it. Cook, Fletcher and Moore settled on the ])anks of the Willamette, near the falls, the last named locating directly opposite* the cataract, on the west bank. He purchased a section of land of the Indians, a transaction which, of course, had no legal force, and named his place "Robin's Nest." Dr. McLoughlin claimed the opposite end of the falls, and, later, when he resigned from the Hudson's Bay Company, located there and became as good an American as any of them. Pie thus relates some of the diffi- culties he experienced with this claim: — In 1840, as I already stated, the Methodist Mission received a large reinforce- ment, r had selected for a claim, Oregon City, in 1829, made improvements on it and had a large quantity of timber squared. Tlie Superintendent applied to me for a loan of some of it to build a mission house. I lent them the timber and had a place pointed out to them upon which to build. In 1840 the Methodist Mission formed a milling association and jumped part of my claim and began t« build a saw and grist mill. They assumed the right to judge of my rights, and said that I could not hold it as part of my claim, though the stream that separates the islet from the main land is not more than forty feet wide in summer. This island is what is called " Abernethy Island," and is about three or four acres in extent. In 1842, Mr. Walker, the resident missionary in the house, to build which I lent timber, which they never returned, and gave the ground upon which to build, set up a claim to Oregon City in opposition to me, but after some difficulty, I paid them $500 and he gave it up. I preferred to do this and have done with it rathtr than here- after trouble Government with it. It has been remarked that the policy of the Hudson's Bay Com- IVM iriSTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK VAI,1-KT. pany w.'is to discourage any settlements whatever, preferring that the country should remain uninhabited l>y all save the Indians and the actual servants of the company. It had even gone to the ex- pense of sending to Canada those employees whose terms of service expired. Had they but themselves and employees to deal with, the policy was a wise one foi- the purpose of effecting the end aimed at — the preservation of the country in its primeval state — l)ut with the complication of independent American settlers it wa« the re- vei'se. Had the company from the beginning coloni/e<l ()regi>n with its discharged servants, as it had previously done the Red River region, there would now have been such a flourishing colony as would liave comjiletely overshadowed the Americans, if, indeed, it did not prevent their coming altogether. Failure to do this lost Great Britain her only hope of ac(iuiring Oregon. The company's eyes were fully opened to the danger when the Wallamet Cattle Company was organized in 1837. It resolved then upon a radical ami immediate change of policy — to colonize the country with sub- jects of Great Britain as rapidly as jDOssible. Accordingly, the Puget Sound Agriciultural Company was organized in 1887 as an associate of the company, which it was to supply with its products as well as carry on a trade with the Sandwich Islands and Alaska. The company, for reasons previously stated, selected a location on the north side of the Columbia, at Cowlitz and Nesqually. It took several years to carry the scheme into effect, since it was necessary to bring a large emigration from the company's older colony on Red River. The settlement on French Prairie has been mentioned; this consisted of about twenty-five families at the time Father Blan- chet arrived in 1838, and located there the Mission of St. Paul, where a school and church have ever since been maintained. The plan of the company was to thus overwhelm the American settlers in point of numbers, and at the same time to open negotiations be- tween the home governments for a final settlement of the mooted question of title, in which the great preponderance of English sub- jects should be lu'ged as a reason why Great Britain's claim to the country should be conceded. To the defeat of this deep-laid plan the United States is indebted largely to Dr. Marcus Whitman's per- spicacity, determination and patriotism, as will appear later on. The company's plans embraced, also, a studied and persistent AMKRICANS ORfJANIZK A 1»KOVISION A I, r.oVKtJ.VMK VT. •J.Sil niisrepre8<uitatioii of the agrir.iiltural resoiirceH of the country. The idea was industriously impressed upon every one that Oregon was a barren waste, of no earthly vj^lue except as a fur i-egion. J^y this means it was hoped not only to discourage emigration, but to im- press u]K)n American statesmen the 'u]vt\ that a country of sucli little value for colonization was not worth contending for, and some of tlie speeches made in Congress l)y several of the foremost men of the nation show hoAV well the plan succeeded. That England, and Englishmen generally, became end)ued with the same idea was of no consequence, since the company did not desire English settlers other than such as, in a measure, belonged to it; and England could be relied upon to do her best to secure it as a perpetual trapping ground for this great corporation, which was her j)owerful repic- sentative in the extreme West. Not onl}' was the region decried, but it was asserted with great positiveness that it was abs(dutely impossible for wagons to cross the mountains, and that emigrants could not pass overland from the Mississippi \\'illey. Every book of English origin laid great stress upon these facts, and tliey were echoed by the magazines and newspapers. Said John Dunn, a former clerk of the company, in his work on (Oregon: "None but the wild and fearless fi'ee- trappers can claml)er over these precipices and tread these deserts with security. It is true that there have been published more favorable accounts, within the last year or two, by parties who have made the journey safely, and who encourage others to make a similar experiment, liut these accounts are mere bravado." In 1848, the Edinburg Review said: "However the political question between England and the United States, as to the ownership of Oregon, may be decided, Oregon will never be coh)- nized overland from the United States. The world must assume a new phase before the American wagons will make plain the road to the Columbia, as they have done to the Ohio." These extracts are sufficient to show the general tenor of them all. In this there was nothing either criminal or dishonest, nothing which Americans would not have done under the same circum- stances; and yet certain writers speak of this and other steps of the company to obtain, or retain, possession of Oregon, as constituting a heinous crime. In looking at this matter one should divest him- self of all national and religious prejudice or bigotr}'. Both na- P 230 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. tions haviiijr well-founded claims to the country, the subjects of Great Britain certainly were as fully justitietl in making an effort for possession as were the citizens of the United States; and the actual fact is that they were less active, less aggressive than were the Americans, to which is largely due their defeat in the contest upon which they entered with every a«lvantage. Because they made these efforts, pai'ties who were ecjually active on the other side have chargKl the cornjiany with grave crimes, not the lejist of which was the inciting of the natives to murder American settlei-s and mission- aries. These charges rest solely ujion the most flimsy circumstan- tial evidence, which is outweighed by the c«)nduct and character of the officers who administered the company's affaii"s in Oregon. It is not the purpose of the wi'itei- to engage in a general tlefense of the Hudson's Bay Company, or acquit it of all censure; for he be- lieves its policy to have been harsh and cruel, though natural and human. He would, however, desire to <lefend the name of good Dr. McLoughlin from the aspersions of men who were not worthy to untie the latchet of his shoes; who possessed neither his large and liberal mind, nor his warm and generous heart. He must be dis- associated entirely from the company ^\hose chief representative he was, since he failed utterly to carry out its policy. He was ever the sympathizing friend of the needy pioneer, and lil>erally aided huu in distress; and when called to account, in 184-4, for not enforcing the company's orders to withhold fi"om American settlers all assist- ance whatever, resigned his position and became nearly penniless because of being held personally responsil>le for the debts he had permitted many distressed emigrants to contract for necessary sup- plies, which debts, it may be stated, many never had the honor or gratitude to discharge. Aside from this order to >\-ithhold assistance, which, had it been enforced by Dr. McLoughlin, would have caused great distress, and which, of course, not being present to witness it, the chief officers of the company coidd not fully appreciate, there was nothing in the conduct of the company which would not be looked upon in any country and by any people as proper and nec- easary for the protection of their interests, could they «>e placed in a similar position. It is questionable if the gentlemen entertaining such bitter feelings had possessed the great power of the company, whether they would have used it as honorably and conscientiously AMERICANS OROANIZK A PROVISIONAL OOVKRNMKNT. 237 as (li<l Dr. McLoughlin and his associiites. These narrow-minded views were not entertained by Dr. Whitnnm, the Nestor of them all. He had a brain sufficiently large, and a nature suffieiently honor- able, to divorce politics and personality, and he honored and respected some of these men, and enjoyed their wannest friendship, while do- ing more than any other man to counteract and defeat their ])lans. The active paii taken politically by the Protestant missionaries lost them the suj)poi-t they at first received from the company, which was transferred to the Catholics, who, as subjects of (ireat Britain, could be counted upon to further its interests. It was this support of their religious adversaries which caused the l)itter enmity of cer- tain Protestant historians to the company. The mutual intcderance of adherents of the two creeds, and the especially bitter spirit eu- gendere<l l)y the contest for spiritual control of the In<' ians, suffi- •iently explain why those whose minds were thus wrought uj) to a 'lief in the commission of fiendish acts by their Catholic opponents, should extend their prejudices to the company which aided in their defeat. Dr. McLoughlin treats the sul>ject of his attitude and conduct towards American settlers at great length, and justice to him requires that his words be given in full. He says: — In 1S43, about 800 emigrants arrived from the Stiites. I saw by the looks of the Indians that they were excited, and I watched them. As the first stragglers were arriving at Vancouver in canoes, I was standing on the bank. Nearer the water there was a group of ten or twelve Indians. One of them bawled out to his com- panions, " It is good for us to kill these Bostons ! " Struck with the excitement I had seen in Uie countenances of the Indians since they had heard the report of the immigration coming, I felt certain they were inclined to mischief, and that bespoke thus loud as a feeler to sound me, and take their measures accordingly. I imme- fliately rushed on them with my cane, calling «)ut at the same time, "Who is the dog that says it is a good thing to kill these BosUms!" The fellow, trembling, excused himself, " I spoke without meaning harm, but the Dalles Indians say so." Well," said I, " the Dalles Indians are dogs for saying so, and you also," and left him, a-s, if I had remained longer, it would have had a bad effect. I had done enough to convince them I would not allow them to do wrong to the immigrants with impunity. From this Indian saying, in the way he did, that the Dalles Indians said it was good to kill the Bostons, I felt it my duty to do all I could to avert so horrid a deed. Mr. P. L. Edwards, whom I mentioned, came in 1834, with Messrs. Lee, and left in 18.38, sent me a letter by Gen. McCarver, stating he had given a letter of in- troduction to me to r. H. Burnett, Esq. I immediately formed my plan and kept my knowledge of the horrid design of the Ij^dians secret, as I felt certain that if Americana knew it, these men acting indej)endent of each other, would be at once for fighting, which would lead to their toUl destruction, and I sent two (2) boats 238 HISTORY OF WILLAMKTTF, VALLEY. " You have known it for two name." The Doctor, seeing I with provisions to meet them ; :?ent provisions to Mr. Burnett, and a large quantity of provisions for sale to those who would purchase, and to be given to those who had not the means, being confident that the fright I had given (as alread.y stated; the Indians who sjiid it was a good thing to kill the Bost(>ns was known at the Dalles before our boats were there, and that witli the presence of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany people, and the assistance they aflForded the immigrants, would deter the Indians from doing them any wrong, and I am happy to be able to say I entirely succeeded. At first I thought these Indians were excited by some of the Iroquois Indians in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, and tried to find if so, l)ut found nothing to enlighten me on the subject. Alxnit a month after Dr. Whitman, from his mission Walla Walla to Vancou- ver, as the Dalles was on liis way, and as he had seen the princifil men there, it occurred to mc that he might have heard of it, and told him what I heard the Indian say, antl how I had alarmed him, what I had done to deter them and my suspicion that all this .^i)rung from .some of our ra.scally Iroquois, and tliat I was anxious to find thai ra.scal oui to punish liim as an example to deter otiiers. " Oh," says the Doctor, " I know all about it." " You do. Doctor," says I. " Yes," said the Doctor, "and I liave known it for two years." years anil you told me no^hint^! Pray tell me his wtxs on the wrong scent, said, "His name is Thonuis Hill." After thinking for Bome time, I replied, the Hudson's Bay Comininj' had no man of that name in their service. "Oh," says the Doctor, " Tom Hill the Sliawnce." Tliis Indian, it is said, had been e<lucated at Dartmoutii College in the States, had told the Indians that a few Americans had come to settle on their land ; tiiat the Shawnees allowcil them, but when the Americans were strong enough they drove the Shawnees ofl'and now the Shawnees hi've no lands, and had urged the Indians to allow no Americans to settle on their lands, which advice the In<lians al)out Walla Walla say *he ("ayuses are following , ^ this day, and the Indian- are inclined to follow by killing the innni- grants ".vho fir-t came, and which I lielieve they would have done but for the decideti and cautious manner that I acte<l. And the reason the Indian made use of the ex- pression he did, was because I punishei^I the murderers of the Smith party, ami be- fore acting they wanted to know how T would treat ihcm, and most certainly if I had not l)een n>ost anxious for the .-afoty of the immigrants and to discharge to them the duties of a Christian, my ear v.'ould not have caught so (juickly the w )rds, " ii is a good thing to kill these Bostops," and acted jus I did. In fact, if the immi- grants had all been my brothcw and sistei-s, I could not have done mure for them. T fed the hungry, causwl tlie sick t<i be attended to and nursed, furnished thcni every assistiinc: so long as they re |(iire<l it, and which some have not paid to this day, though abundantly able, and for which, if they do not pay, I am answerable to the Hudson's Bay ("o;!Mp:iny. I* may be said, and has been said, that I was too liberal in I'laking th'jse advances. It is not so, but was done judiciously and I)rudently. When tiie immigration of 184li came, wc had enough of bread.stull's in the ('ountry for one year, liut as the inimigrants rep<>rted that next season there would be a greater immigration, it wa.s evident if there wtw not a pro|>ortionate increiuse of setnl sown in 1843 and 1844, tiiere would be a famine in the country in 1H4.5, which would lea<l to trouble, as .'■ise that had fanulies, to save them from starvation, would be obliged to have recourse to violence to get food for them. To avert this I freely sup- plied the inmilgrant.s of 1843 and 1844 with the neces,sary articles to ojun farms, and by these means avoided the evils. In short I afforded every as^iistiince to the immi- grants so long as they required it, and i)y management I kept iM'ace in the country, and in some cases bad lo ]iut up with a great deal ; for instance, when the milling com|>any juiuimhI part of uiy claim, the island uiHin which they built a mill, and AMEKICAXS ORGAXIZK A VKOVISIONAL (JOVKKNMENT. 239 whicii subsetjuently Abernethy purchased, and when Williamson jumiied part of Fort Vancouver, as may be seen by my corretipondence with the i)rovisi()nal govern- nicnt on the subject, and which occuired in the presence of several American citizens, who I am hnpi)y to say stronj^ly expressed their disapprobation of William- son's conduct, and whieli I am induced to believe made him desist, an<l it will be seen, to their credit, 'hut Messrs , the Executive Conunittee, acted in a straightforward, manly and correct manner, and it was by such conduct on the part of respectable American citizens, that peace and order were maintained in the country. It is true, several thought I was too for- bearing ; but when I saw how nuich the good on both siiles would suffer if I acted differently, and that a war l)etween Great Britain and the United States might be caused liy it, I considered it my duty to act as I did, and by which I thinlt I nuiy have prevented a war l)etween the United States and (treat Britain. And how have . been treated by both? By IJritish demagogues 1 have l)een represented as a traitor. For what? Because I actf'd as a Cliristian; saved Americiui citizens, men, women and children from the Indian touuduiwk, and enabled them to make farms to support their families. Ani'Tican dcniagosrues have been base enough to a.ssert that I had caused American ''itizens to be massacred by hundreds by the savages. I, who saved all I could. I have l)een represented by tlie delegate from Oregon, the late S. R. Thurston, as doing all I could to prevent tlie settling, while it was well known to every Ameri- can settler who is acciuaiiited with tl)e history of the Territory, that this is a down- right falsehood, and most, certainly will say, that they most firndy believe that I did all I could to prom te its .settlement, and tluit I could not have done more for the settlers if they liad ictii my brothers and sisters, and after being the first person to take a claim in the country and assisting the immigrants as I have, my claim is reserved, after having ex])ended all the means I had to inijjrove it, while every other settler in the country gets his. But as I felt convinced that any disturbance between us here might lead to a war between Great Britain and the States, I felt it my l)ounden duty as a Christian, to act as I did, and which T think averted the evil, and which was so displeasing to some English demagogues that they repre- ' "nted me to the British Ctovernment as a peraon so partial to American interests as selling the Hudson's Bay ("otnpany goods in my charge cheaper to American than I did to British sul)jects. On the other liand, though, if the American innnigrants ha<l been my brothers and sisters, I could not have done more for them; yet, after acting tvs I have, spending my means and doing my utmost to settle tlie country, niy claim is resirved, while every other settler in the country gets liis; and how nuicli this has injured me, is daily injuring me, it is neeille.ss to say, and certainly it is a treatment I do not deserve and whic^h I did n«)t expect. To be brief, bounded this settlement anil preventeil a war between tlie United States and Gre-t Britain, and for doing this peaceably and ((uietly, I wtus treated by the Britis'. in such a manner that froiii self respect T resigned my situation in the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's service, by which I sacrificed Jil2,(KK) per annum, and the "Oregon Lund Bill " shows tlie treatment I received from the Americans. It 18 a [ilcasure to .state tliat all libt'i'al-iuindeil pioneers regard the good Doctor as one of the grande.st and most nolde characters with whom they ever <'nmt^ [n "ontact. The [lojvilation of Oregon may be dassitied, in 1840, into four tlistiiu-t divisions- -the Hudson's Bay Company; the Catholic mis- sionaries and their French proteges; the Protestant misHiouaries ; 240 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. and the independent settlers. The fii'st two generally acted together, thouirh there were a few members of the Catholic church who favored American rule. Though not always in full accord, and occa.sionally op[X)sing each other, the settlers and missionaries, as a rule, act<'d together, the missions serving as a rallying point for the settlei*s. These latter cared nothing for the religious creed the missionaries represented, their sole object in securing homes in the Willamette Valley being to better their wordly condition, yet they favored the mission to the extent that it served their purpose of settling in the country. The missions of the American Board located east of the m«>untains, cut no iigure at first in the oi'ijanization of a government, thiit mt>vement being confined to the settlers in the Willamette Val- ley. The motives which actuated them are thus set forth by J. Quinu Thornton: — Distant from the land of their birth, surrounded by restless tribes of Indiant*, who clamorously and insolently demanded of the immigrants pay for lands whii'h the immigrants had neither the means nor the right to purchase; still ardently de- siring to have their names and their destiny connected with that of the republic, and yet, often pierced to the heart by the thought, which would sometimes, unbid- den, obtrude itself ujwn the mind, that they were the victims of their country's neglect and injustice, and suffering all the inconveniences and embarrassnunts w hich are necessarily felt by a residentand civilized community, without a system of laws for the conservation of peace and order, they were at length comijelled to or- ganize a provisional government. Their first step was taken March 16, 1888, when J. L. Whit- comb and thirty-five other settlers prepared a memorial, which was presentetl to Congress January 28, 18.S9, by Senator Linn. This document set forth the resources and condition of the country, and contained the following paragraph: — We are anxious when we inuigine what will be, what must be, the condition of 8o mixed a community, free from all legal restraint and superior to that moral influ- ence wliich has hitherto been the pledge of our safety. We flatter ourselves f/iat u-e art the germ of a great State and are anxious to give an early tone t«) the moral and intellectual character of our citizens— the destinies of our jMisterity will be intimately affected by the character of those who immigrate. The territory nuist populate — the Congress of the United Htatcs umst say by whom. The natural resources of the country, with a well-judged civil code, will invitea good community but a goofi community will hardly emigrate to a country which promises no pro- tection to life or property. * * * We can boast of no civil ccMle. We can promise no i)rofection but the ulterior resort of self-defense. • • * We have thus briefly shown that the security of our jjersons and our property, the hopes and destinies of our children, are involved in the subject of our iH'tilion. We do not presume to suggest the manner in which the country should be <K'cupied by the Ooverunieut, nor the extent to which our settlement should be encouraged. AMEBICAIfS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL OOVKKNMEXT. 241 Vhit- This , and ition of il inttu- •I's that e iiiiiriil will III' ry imiHt naturul niunity no pro- lie. We We rty. tlu' m. We ipietl i>y ou raged. We confide in the wisdom of our national legislators, and leave the subject to their candid deliberations. This petition was read, laid on the table, and neglected. In June, 1840, Senator Linn again presented a menumal, signed by seventy citizens of Oregon : — Your petitioners represent that they are residents in Oregon Territory, and citi- zens of the United States, or persons desirous of becoming such. They furthei rep- resent that they have settled themselves in said Territory, under the belief that it was a portion of the public domain of the United States, and that they might rely upon the government thereof for the blessings of free institutions and the protec- tion of its arms. But your petitioners further represent, that they are^minformed of any acts of said Government by which its Institutions and protection are ex- tended to them; in consequence whereof, them-selves and families are exposed to be destroyed by the savages and others that would do them. harm. And your petition- ers would further represent that they have no means of protecting their own and the lives of their families, other than self-constituted tribunals, organized and sus- tained by the power of an ill-instructed public opinion, and the resort to force and arms. And your petitioners represent these means of safety to be an insufficient safeguard of life and property. * * * * Your petitioners wherefore pray the Congress of the United States of America, to establish, as soon as may be, a territorial government in Oregon Territory. The phrase which is italicized in the above memorial nndoiibt- edly refei's to the Hudson's Bay Company, which, so ■ .le of the settlers then believed and a few still affect to believe, desi:. d their destruction. The absurdity of this has already been pointed out l)y calling attention to the character of the company's officers in Ort- gon, and to the very patent fact that had such been their intention it would have been carried out, since nothing could have been easier of acconiplishnient. That the company succeeded in "freezing out " opposition traders, })y exerting its authority to prevent the Indians form trading with its rivals, and by refusing to sell such men sup- plies when in business distre.s8, is an undisputed fact; and that it s(»ught to "starve out" all American settlers, or, at least, keep them in practical subjection, is equally undisputable, and would probably have been as fully successful had am>tlier than Dr. Mc- lioughlin been in charge at Vancouver; but that it sought to achieve these ends by murder and inciting the Indians to slaughter them, lacks proof of any kind. Its domination over the Indians was so complete that a simple hint that the company desired the Americans killed would have been sufficient to have accomplished that end. The simple fact that these petiti<)uei's lived for uumy years expo.sed 242 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. to attack ami never oiice received it, is evidence enough to show that the fears expressed in the memorial were ungrounded. Having thus jji-ovided for making knowTJ the situation of affairs to Congress, and being well aware that one, and }»ossibly two, yt'ars must roll around before they could even know that their petition liad been pi-esented, they adch'essed themsehes to the task of pro- viding such government as was absolutely recpiired for the security of their families and the proper conservation of the peace. The principal setth-nient wa> at Champoeg, and thei'e a meeting wa.s held on the seventh of Februavy, 1H41, the record of which shows that it was "a meeting of some of the inhabitants * * * for the purpose of consulting upon steps necessary to be taken for the formation of laws, and tlie election of officers to execute them." Rev. Ja.son Lee was called to the chair, and reipiested to express his opinion of what was necessary to be done. In a brief speech, which indicates that he had given considerable thought to the subject, he a(.l vised the appointment of a committee to (h'aft a ccmstitution and by-laws for the government of that portion of the territory l\iug s(»uth (,)f the Columl)ia. The people were also recommended to con- sidered the (juestion of a governor and other officers. Here the matter rested temporai'ily ; but an (went happened a few days later which revived it with irreater vigor. This was the death of that able and energetic lea(h'r, Ewing Young, on the fifteenth of Feb- ruary. His funeral, which was held two days later, was attended by nearl}' every setth^r in the valley. Mr. Young [wssessed c(m- siderablc property, and left no visil)le heirs to claim it and no one to administer upon the estate. Had he l)e('ii a servant, or even an employee of the company, the officers would have taken charge of the effects; or had he been lussociated with one of the missions, there would have been no doubt about the disposition of his property; but he was simply an independent settler, and no one had any color of authority to act in the premises. After the funeral ceremonies were c(mcluded, the people organized a "meeting of some of the inhabit- ant** of the Wallamet Valley, foi- consultation concerning tin steps necessary to be taken for the formation of laws, and the election of officers to execute the same, and for the better preservation of peace and good ordei'." Uev. Jason Lee was chosen Chairman, and Rev. Gustavus nines Secretary. It waa determined to institute a civil gov- AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 243 olor of lial»it- tion of f pence »1 Rev. eniment south of the Columbia, to the protection of which any per- son living north of that stream and not connected with the company, might be admitted upon aj^plication. The form of government decided upon was a legislative connnittee, a govei'nor, a supreme judge with probate powers, three justices of the peace, three con- stables, three road commissioners, an attorney-general, a clerk of the courts and j)id)lic recorder, a treasurei', and two overseers of the poor. Names of gentlemen to occujn' the various offices were sug- gested, and then the meeting adjourned to assemble the next day at the Methodist Mission, and elect officers. Nearly all the male pop- ulation south of the Colund)ia assembled at the time and place specified. There were three distinct factions — the Methodist mis- sionaries and their associates, the independent settlers, and the Catholics as allies of the Hudson's Bay Company. The first busi- ness was the choice of a committee to draft a constitution and code of laws, the fullowinu" gentlemen beini; selected: Rev. F. N. Blan- chet, I'epresenting the Catholics; Rev. Jason Lee, Rev. Gustavus Hines and Rev. Josiali L. Parrish, representing the Methodist Mis- sion; D. Donpierre and ^l. Charlevo, representing the French Can- adian settlers; Robert Moore and Etinne Lucier, representing the Atn.'rican settlers; "William Johnson, representing the purely English ehuiient. The main point at issue between the factions seemed to be the position of governor; Revs. Leslie an<l Ilines and Dr. J. L. Bal)coclf were the mission candidates, and seemed liable to divide the vote sufficiently to ensure the election of Di'. Bailey, a man of strong English prejudices, who wtis opposed to i'<!ligion generally. He could secure the French Catholics and a majority of the settlers' votes. l>ut the latter element he alienatetl l»y his extreme immodesty in nominating himself. It was finally deci<led to dispense with a governor, the duties of that office ])eing discharged by the su})reme judge, to which pctsition Dr. J. L. Bal)cock was elected. IL; was instructed to render decisions in cases which might come before him, in accordance with the New York code; but as there wjis not a New York statute book west of the Rocky Mountains, it would have been <Hfficult to determine whether he c(»m])lied or not. The committee l»eing divided between the different interests, and the bench having fallen to the Methodists, the Catholics were given the recorder in the pei'son of George W. LeBretou, who had come out in the brig 244 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Maryland^ and was a young niau of good education. Later, he affiliated entirely with the settlers, and is spoken of by the priests at the time of his death, which will be subseijuently noted, as being , an apostate. The English element was represented by William Johnson, as high sheriff. Joseph Gervais, Hadier Laderaut (Zania Ladaroot), Pierre Billique and William McCarty were chosen con- stables. The other offices designated were not filled; to have done so would ha\'e re(piireil nearly ever}' prominent man in the settle- ments. The meeting then adjourned to assemble on the first Tues- day in June, at the new building near the Catholic church. Dr. Babcock administered upon the estate of Mr. Young, and aa no heirn appeared to claim it, the property was devoted to the build- ing, two years later, of a jail at Oregon City, the first of its kind west of the Rocky Mountains. A score of years later the Oregon Legislature refunded the value of the estate to Joaquin Young, of New Mexico, who proved himself to be a sou of the deceased pioneer. LTpon the day appointed in June the people again assembled, and learned that the committee had not framed a constitution, nor had they even met for that purpose. Rev. F. N. Blanchet resigned, and after choosing Dr. Bailey to fill the vacancy, the meeting in- structed the committee to "confer with the Commodt)re of the American squatlron and John McLoughlin, Chief Factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, with regard to forming a constitution and code of laws for this conmmnity." The meeting then adjourned till the following October. The naval officer alluded to was Com- modore Charles Wilkes, who had been despatched by the United States Government, in 1838, with a fleet of vessels, on an extended voyage of exploration, continuing five years. Wilkes was then in Oregon with the double purpose of obtaining geographical and sci- entific information and learning the exact situation of affairs. Per- sonally, he enjoyed the hospitality of Dr. McLoughlin during his brief stay, several expeditions being sent out fi'om Vancouver, one going to Puget Sound, one to the missions east of the mountains, and a third, under Lieutenant Emmons, passing up the Willamette Valley and going overland to the Bay of San Francisco, whither the squadron proceeded by sea. Having visited the various mis- sions, talked with tJie settlers, and consulted with the worthy Chief AMKRIOANK OROANIZK A PROVISIONAL UOVKRNMKNT, 245 Factor, he learned that only a minority were in favor of a govern- ment, chiefly those associated with the Methodist Mission. It •seemed to be the prevailing opinion that the settlement was not strong enough to sustain a government and not large enough to absolutely require it. Accordingly, Wilkes advised the com- mittee which waited upon him, to wait until they were stronger before attempting a government, until the "Government of the United States should throw its mantle over them." This advice was accepted, and the adjourned meeting never convened. This ended the first effort to organize a local government. The first regular emigration from the East arrived in 1841, be- ginning that steady stream of young and vigorous life which has annually flowed into Oregon for over forty years ; and the end will not be seen for many years to come. There were deep and moving causes for this living sti'eam to force its way through the rocky bar- riers and alkali deserts and cut a deep channel to Oregon. Trap- pers who had visited the Pacific Coast sang the praises of the lovely and fertile valleys of the Willamette and Sacramento, where winter was unknown and the grass remained green the year round. The western frontiersmen caught up the refrain as it passed from cabin to cabin ; and in a few years the tale was an old one with the hardy pioneers of the West. The publication of Dr. Parker's book, Irv- ing's "Astoria " and " Bonneville," John Dunn's work on Oregon, a letter written by Robert Shortess, who had come out in 1839, combined with a general financial depression in the Western States, caused much attention to l)e directed towards Oregon, California then being a province of Mexico and, ccjnswiueutly, less attractive to American citizens. The two steadfast friends of Oregon in Congress were the senators from Missouri, Thomas H. Benton and Lewis F. Linn, whose names are borne l)y two of the oldest and liest -"ounties in the Willamette Valley. They never ce{ise<i to urge upon the Government the ne(;essity of taking some decisive step to perfect its title to the region of the Columbia, and to extend the jurisdic- tion of the law over this disputed country for the protection of American citizens who were making, and might in the future make, their homes in the far-off Occident. It was Senator Linn who pre- sented the two memorials before alluded to, and who, at the same time, introduced bills for the extension of the jurisdiction of the 246 HISTORY OF VVILLAMKTTE VALLEY. United States laAYs over Oivgeui, writing tli«nu warmly ujion the consideration of Congress. Eai-ly in 1842 he intvodticed a bill granting donations of the pultlic lands to all wlio might settle in Oregon, his idea being that a libenil emigration alone eoiild l)e re- lied upon to win the Columlna for tlie United States, and that special inducements should be oifered to those brave and hardy people who must be relied upon to thus eonstihite tlie line of battle on the frontier. With all earnestness he supported this measure in the Senate, ably seconded l)y his eminent coHeague, bu<^ his sudden death on the od of October, l<S4;i, suspended, for the time, the vi- tality of these measures; yet, in the donation laAVs passeil by Con- gress a few years latei', the pioneers of Oregon rt'aped the benefit of his unselfish exertions, and received the fultillment of that im- plied promise which had induced many of them to undertake the toilsome and dangerous journey. In his eulogy ii])on his distin- guished colleague, delivered in the Senate, Mr. lientoii said: "In the character of sucli a man, so exuberant in all that is grand and l)eautiful in human nature, it is dithcult to partieularize excellen- cies, or pick out any one (piality or circumstance which could claim pre-eminence over all others. If I should attem[)t it, I should point among his measures for the benefit of the whole Union, to the Or- egon bills." The emigration of 1841 consisted of one hundred and eleven persons, who, owing to the supposed impossibility of crossing the country with wagons, made no attemj^t to l)i'ing vehicles w ith them. That such was not an impossibility liad l)een (k^monstrated in two instances — when Dr. Whitman took his cart to Fort Boise in 183(), and again in 1840 l>y Dr. Robert Newell, an old mountaineei", who took a prominent and lu)noral)le part in the early affairs of Oi"egon. He was one of the ari'ivals of 1840 previously noted. Newell had served as guide to the Methodist missionaries from (xreen River to Fort Hall, where, as compensation for his services, he received the two watrons beloncjino; to the missionaries, which the\' had decided to abandon at that point. The wagon party consisted of Dr. Rob- ert Newell and family, Joseph L. Meek, Caleb AVilkins and Francis Ermatinger, a Factor of the Hudson's Bay Company. The inci- dent is thus related by Dr. Newell: — At the time I took the wagons, I hud no idea of undertaking to bring them into AMKinCANS OKOANIZK A PROVISION A I. fiOVKRNMKNT. •24] this country. I cxi^lmniird fat liorses to these missioimritw for their animals, and after they had lu-eii jfone a niontli or more for WalUmiet, and the American Fur Comi)any liad ahaiidomd tlie country for good, I concluded to liitch up and try the nnuih-dre uled jol) of bringing a wagon to Oregon. I sold one of these wagons to Mr. KrniatingtT, at Kort Hall. Mr. C'aleh Wilkins had a small wagon whicli Joel Walker hail left at Kort Hall. On the Hfth of August, 1840, we put out with three wagouH. .Joseph L. Meek drove my wagon. In a few days we began to realize the difficult task before us, and found that the continual crashing of the .sage under our wagons, which was in many places higher than the mule's backs, was no joke. .Seeing our animals begin to fail, we began to light up, linally tlirew away our wagon-beds and were (juiti' sorry we had undertaken the job. All the consolation we had was that we broke the lirst .sage on that road, and were too proud to eat anything but dried salmon skins after our provisions had become exhausted. In a rather rough and reduced slate we arrived at Dr. Whitman's mission station in the Walla Walla Valley, where we were met by that hosj)itable man and kindly made welcome and feasted accordingly. On hearing me regret that I had undertaken to bring wagons, the Doctor said, "Oh, you will never regret it. You have broken the ice, and when others see that wagons have passed, they too will pass, and in a few years the valley will be full ol our people." The Doctor shook ine heartily by the hand ; Mrs. Whitman, too, welcomed us, and the Indians walked around our wagons, or what they called "horse canoes," and seemed to give it up. We spent a day or so with tlic Doctor, and then went to Kort Walla Walla, where we were kindly received by Mr. 1'. C. Pambrun, Cliief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, Sui)erintendent of that post. On the rtrst of October, we took leave of those kind people, iKirimj our wuyonn and taking the river trail— but we i)roceeded slowly. Our party consisted of .Josei)h Ij. Meek and myself, also our families, and a Hnake Indian whom 1 brought to Oregon, where he died a year after our arrival. The party did not arrive at the Wallamet Falls till December, subsisting for weeks upon dried salmon, and upon several occasions comjielled to swim their stock across the Columbia and Wallamet. The eiuigraiits from the Red River colonies which were brought to Oregon in pursuance of the phm of the Hudson's Bay Company set forth above, arrived in the fall of 1S41. Sir (xeorge Simpson, goveriH>r of the comj)an>', visited Vancouver the same year, crossing overliind from Moiitival. Just east of the Rocky Mountains he passed tliis train of emigrants, whicli he records as consisting of " twenty-thi-ee families, tiie heads being generally young and active.'' They reached Oregon in S('ptenil)er an<l were located north of the Columbia, in the vicinit\- of the C'owlitz farm of the Pueet Sound Agricultural Company. A number of tliem relocated the next year in the Willamette Valley. The emigration of 184'J consisted of one hundred and nine people, iifty-tive of them over eighteen years of age. Tiiey started from Independence on the sixteenth of May, with sixteen wagons and a numlter of cattle. In the train was Dr. Elijah White, who had spent three years in Oregon in connection with the Methodist 248 msTOKY OF Wir-LAMKTTK VALI.KY. Mission. He had now secured an appointment a.s Indian Agent for the region west of the Rocky Mountains, and was on his way back to the scene of liis missionary labors, ^Mexander and John McKay, sons of Tom. McKay, were also with the party, being homeward bound from a few years of attendance at school in New York State. These three had lived in Oregon, but were not ac»|uainted with the route thither. Judge Columbia I ancaster and his family a<!compa- nied them as far as the Kansas River, but he was f(tmj)('ried by the sickness of his \vife to abandon the journey and return. A few years later he was more successful and his name is now indelibly stamped upon the pages of Oregon history. Stephen II. Meek, an experienced mountaineer and In'other of Col. Jo. Meek, served as guide and general advisor, having trapped for years thrt)Ugli the mountains and be^^n in Oregon several times, first with Bonneville and afterwards sis an employee of the Hudson's Ba}- Company. F. X. Matthieu, well known in the State, joined the train at Fort Lara- mie, with three Frenchmen whose names are unknown. Thomas Fitzpatrick, a former partner in the Rocky Mountain Fur Com- pany, and one of the most experienced of mountain men, was en- countered at P'ort Laramie and engaged for $500 to pilot the train to Fort Hall. At Independence Rock a young man named Bailey was killed by the accidental discharge of a rifle; and L. W. Hast- ings and A. L. Lovejoy, two names prominent in Oregon history, were captured by Sioux Indians while engaged in cai'ving their names <jn the face of the rock. They were ransomed by making their captors a present of a few trinkets and pieces of tobacco; and this v/as what gave rise to the story in after yeai-s that Hastings had been bought for a plug of tobacco. At Green River one-half of the wagons were dismantled and used to make pack saddles, since it was deemed too slow and difficult a task to take the whole train further. This event and the subsequent incidents of the journey are thus related by Hon. Medorum Crawford, one of the party: — Horses, mules and oxen were packed with such clothing, utensils and provisions as were indispensable for our daily wants, and with heavy hearts many articles of comfort and convenience, wliich had been carefully carried and cared for on the long journey, were left behind. About the middle of August we arrived at Fort Hall, then an important trading post belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company. From Captain Grant, bis officers and employees, we received such favors and assist- ance as can only be appreciated by worn-out and destitute emigrants. Here the remaining wagons were left, and our company, no longer attempting to keep up an AMEKICANN OROANIZK A PKOVISIONAI, (lOVKKNM KNT. 249 nrganizatioD, divifled into small parties, each traveling as fast as their circiimstancet* would permit, following the well-boutcii trail of tlie Hudson's Hay (.'onipany to Fort Walla Walla, now Wallula. The small party to which F was attiiched was one month traveling from Fort Hall to Dr. Whitnum's, whero wt- were most hos- pitably received and suj)plied with flour and vegetal)l('s in aliuiidance, a very acceptable change after sui)sisting almost entirely on bullulo meat from Laramie to Fort Hall, and on salmon from Fort Hall to Whitman's. In fact there had not tieen in my mess a mouthful of l)read since leaving Ijaramie. * ♦ * From Walla Walla Dr. White and some others took jaissage down the ('oluml)ia Ffiver in the Hudson's Hay (Jompany's lioats. Others pursued the Jourmy liy land to The Dalles, and there embarked in l)oat8 or canoes, and still others, and tiie larger por- tion of the emigrants, crossed tlie Cascade Mountains on the old [ iidian trail. From Fort Hall to the Willamette no precaution was taken against, or tiie slightest npi)rehensi(>n felt of Indian hostility, nor were we in any inslnnce molested by them ; on the contrary, they furnished us witli salmon and ^anie, and rendered us valuable assistance for very trilling rewards. From Walla Walla to the Willamette Falls occupied al)out twenty ilays, and all things consi<lered, was the hardest part of the entire journey — what with the drifting sands, rocky ciills, and raj)id streams along the Columl)ia Itiver, and the gorges, torrents, and thickets of the Cascade Mountains, it seems incredible how, with our worn-out and emaciated aninuils, we ever reached our destination. The members of that little train of 1K4*J, such as were then over eighteen years of age, are thus eimmerated by Mr. Crawford: — The following named men over eighteen years of age composed the emigration of 1842: C. T. Arendell, James Brown, William Brown, Gabriel Brown, Barnum, Hugh Burns, Geo. W. Bellamy, Bennett, Bennett, Jr., Bailey ( killed i, Nathaniel Crocker, Nathan Coombs, Patrick Clark, Alexander Copeland, A. N. i'oates, Medorum Crawford, Allen Davy, John Dearnn, John Dobbinbess, Samuel Davis, Foster, John Force, James Force, Girtman, Gibbs, L. W. Hastings J. M. Hudspeath, John Hofstetter, Hardin Jones, A. L. Lovejoy, Reuben Lewis, F. X. Mattliieu, S. W. Moss, J. L. Morrison, Stephen Meek, Ale.x. McKay, John McKay, Walter Pomeroy, Dwight Pomeroy, J. W. Perry, Dutch Paul, J. R. Uobb, Owen .Sununer, T. J. Shadden, Andrew Sndth, A. D. Smith, Darling Smith, Adam Storn, Aaron Towner, Joel Turnham, Elijah White, David Weston, Three Frenchmen. The condition of the valley and the settlers, when these emigrants aiTived, is thus delineated l)y Mr. Cra^vford: — On the fifth day of October our little party, tired, ragged and hungry, arrived at the Falls, now Oregon City, where we found the first habitations west of the Cas- cade Mountains. Here several members of the Methodist Mission were located, and a. saw mill was being erected on the island. Our gratification im arriving safely after so long and perilous a journey, was shared by tiiosc hospitable people, each of whom seemed anxious to give us hearty welcome and render us every assist- ance in their power. From the Falls to Vancouver was a trackless wilderness, communicati(m being only by the river in small boats and canoes. Toward Salem no sign of civilization existed until we reached the French Prairie, where a few farms near the river were cultivated by former employees of the Hudson's Bay Company. West of the Falls some fifteen miles was Tualitan Plains, where a few settlers, mostly from Red River, had located. Within the present limits of Yamhill Courty, the only settlers I can remember were Sidney Smith, Amos Cook, Francis Fletcher, James O'Neil, Joseph McLaughlin, Williams, Louis LaBoute and 250 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. George Gay. There may luive lietn one or two more, but I think not. South of George Gay's on tlie west end of Salem, on the east j«lde of the Willaniette River, there were no settlements in tlie territory. There were in tlie valley some twelve or fifteen Methodist Missionaries, most of them having families, under the general 8U|)erintendeneeof Rev. Jason Lee. 8ome of them were living at llie Falls, some at Salem, and some at the Mission farm, ten udles lielow Salem, opixjsite the place now known as Whejitland. .\t these places, especially at the Falls and Salem, many improvements were being made, and em- ployment was given at fair wages to all who desire<l work. Payment was made in lumber and Hour from their mills at Salem, cattle and honrses from their herds, and orders on the mission stores at the Falls, kept by Hon. (ieorge .\lKrnethy. There was no money in the country, and in fact I do not remember seeing a piece of money of any description for more than a year after my arrival. A man's financial condition was based upon his cattle, horses, and credit on the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's or Abernethy's books. With these he could pnx-ure evcrjthing that was purchaseable in the country. All kinds* of tools and implements were scarce ami generally of the most i)riniitive character. 'I'here were no wagtms in the country. Carts of the rudest numufacture were in general use, which among the French were frequently ironed with raw-hide. Ground was plowed with wcKHlen mould- boards, grain was threshed in rail pens by the tramping of lior*<es and cleaned by winnowing in tlie wind, and transported in canoes and l>ateuux to Fort Vancouver to market. Most of our clothing came from the Hudson's IJay Company, was all of one size, and said to have been made to fit Dr. McLoughlin, who was a very large man. Boots and shoes were more difficult to Ik? obtaine<l than any other article of clothing; as for myself I had no covering for my feet for two years, either summer or winter, l)Ut buckskin moccasins, still I never enjoyed Itetter health in my life. «*♦♦♦» A number of our company, jirobably one-third, dissatisfied with the winter and not willing to wait and see what the summer would bring forth— acting on their migratory instincts— determined early in the s|)ring of 1843 to go to California. It was said of some of those that thej' ne%er remai.ieil in one place longer than to obtain the means to travel ; and of one family in )>articular, that they had prac- tically lived in the wagon for more than twenty years, only remaining in one locality long enough to make a crop, which they had done in every State and Ter- ritory in the Mississipiii Valley. Accordingly, under the lead of L. W. Hastings, they set out as soon as the weather would permit, and. after encountTiug ?ome difficulty with the Indians, they reached Sacramento Valley, .\mong this party was Hon. Nathan Coombs, then a mere b()y, who afterwards btH-ame a large land owner and stock raiser in Napa Valley, and founder of the city of that name. Uncle Tommy Shadden, who is here to-tlay, was al.so of that party. In the spring of 1843 those of our party who remained in the countrj- generally l<K«ted claims in difl'erent sections of the Willamette Valley, and laid the found.itions for homes they had traveled so far to obtain. These claims were by common consent recog- nized and respected without other protection than public opinion until the pro- visional government was established, which providetl that non-residents could hold claims by having them recorded and paying five dollars annually into the terri- torial treasury. It was in 1842 tliat the first regular educational institution in Oregon was founded, one which has done nol>le work for the youth of the coast, and which still flourishes under the manageraeut of its founders, the Methodist Episcopal Church. On the seventeenth of AMERICANS OROANIZK A PROVISIONAL OOVKRNMENT. 251 Jamiarv, 1842, at the call of Rev. Jason Let-, the pcoph* aHHcmblcd at Clieinckcta, now Noi'th Salt-ni, to consider the (juestion of e.s- tal)lishing an e<lncational institution capable <>f meitwitr the wanti* of the growing conununity. A committee was a[)[)ointe(l and the meet- ing adjourned till tlie tirst of FeV>ruary, when it convened in the old mission building which had I)cen erected in 18.'}4. The Oregon Institute was then founded with the following board of trustees: IJcv. Jason Lee, llev, David Leslie, Rev. (Justavus I lines, Rev. J. L. Pani:., Rev. L. IL Judsoii, lion. (leorge Abernethy, Alanson Ueei's, IL Campbell and Dr. J. L. Habcock. A location on French Prairie wjvs lirst seh'cted, but that jdace being deficient in pure water, the institute was finally located on Wallace Prairie, two and one-lialf miles below the present City of Salem. A constitution was adopted on the fifteenth of March, and on the twenty-sixth of ( )ctober the school was foinially p'aced under the cliarge of the .Metliodist /Episcopal Church. The 'r.'j. ration of 1H42, small thougli it wa.s and diminished by the migration of several families to California, served to materially strengthen the inde[)endent American element. Those who were desirous of or<;anizinur a government began a<;ain to canvjiss the s(il)ject, the leading spirit being W. H. dray, who had left his associates — Whitman, 8j)alding, Eells and Walker — and settled in the AVillamette Valley. lie gatheivd a few of the trusty ones at his house to consult upon the best means of getting the people together so as to get a spontaneous action fi'om them before oppos- ing inHuences could have time to work uj)on them. A simple but effective plan was devised — one which worked to a charm. Many domestic animals had been destroyed l)y wild beasts, decimating the small herds of the settlers, and how to prevent such ravages had become a serious (piestion with every settler. It was decided to call a meeting for the ostensible purpose of devising some means for the protection of cattle from the ravages of wild beasts, and notice w.is accordingly sent throughout the valley for every settler to attend sucli a meeting at the Oregon Institute on the second day of February, 1848. The attendance was very large, Dr. Babcock occupying the chair. The presiding officer was unaware of the secondary object of the meeting, to the principle of which he was unfavorable. A committee of six was appointed to submit a plan 252 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY. of operations to an adjourned meeting to be held on the first Mon- day in Mareh, at the cabin of Joseph Gervais. These two gather- ings are generally known among the pioneers as " Wolf meetings." Prior to the second meeting LeBreton and a Mr. Smith quietly can- vassed the sentiment of the people on the sul)ject of a more com- plete government, finding that (juite a diversity of opinions prevaih^d. There was a lyceum which met occasionally at Willanuitte Falls, Vtefore which this question was introduced, and was discussed with great animation. The decision there reached was that a government at that time wa.s ine.xpedient. A government was advocated by Dr. McLoughlin — one which would l»e entirely in<le]>endent of the two nations chiiming Oregon. L. W. Hastings, ;;>* attorney for the Doctor, introduced the rescdution, "That it is expetlient for the settlei*s of the coast to estaldish an In<lependent (Tovernment," and this was the l)asis of the discussion. The negative sitle was taken by George Abernethy and other Americans, the former introducing another resolution for discussion the following week. This was as follows: '■'■Resolved, That if the United States .-.xtends its jurisdic- tion over this country within the next four years, it will not be ex- peflient to form an Independent Government." After much earnest discussion this was adopted, and the ([uestion was placed at rest, apparentl}-. Dr. White, ♦ihe Indian Agent, advocated a government, provided he were placed at its liead; but the adoption of the last re8olu.ion did not seem to offer him a 'certainty of such a happy consummation. By these discussions the public miiMl w as some- what prepared for a step of simie kind to be taken Iteyond that of mere protection from wild beasts, and the conse(|ueiice was that the attendance at the second wolf meeting was even larger than it would otlierwise have been. James A. O'Neil, v lio liad been (quietly notified of the ulterior purpose of the meeting, was called to the chair, and he carried the proceedings as ra|)idly as possible over the noir'nai ol)ject of the gathering, full provision being made for tl.e protection of the herds. William II. Gray then arose and made the issembied sevtJers a little speech. He said that no one would for a moment ([Uesti(»n die propr''-tv and judiciousness of their action. It was just and natural to thus s^'ek to protect their animak from the ravages of wolves, bears and panthers. Contin- uing, he said: — AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 263 How is it, fellow citizens, with you and nie, uiid our wives and children? Have we any organization on which we can rely for mutual protection ? Is there any power or influence in the country sulWcient to prottH?t us and all we hold dear from the worse than wild l)ea.-fts tliat threaten and occasionally destroy our cattle? Who in our midst is authorized to call us together to protect our own and the lives of our families? True, the alarm may l)e given, as in a recent case, and we may run who fe«"l alarmed, and shoot ott" our guns, while our enemy may be robbing our property, ravishing our wives, and burning our houses over our defenseless families. Com- mon sense, prudence and Justice to ourselves demand that we act consistent with the i)rinciples that we have commenced. We have mutually and unitedly agreed to defend and protect our cat(/e and doiucntir. aiiitiiain; now, fellow citizens, 1 sub- mit and move the adoption of the two foil', wing resolutions, that we may have pro- tection for our person and lives, as well as our cattle and lierds: lienolvad, That a committee l>c appointed to take into consideration the propriety of taking ineasur€>s for the civil and military protection of this colony. Rtaulved, That said committee consi.st of twelve persons. The resolutions were iinanimously adopted, and J)i'. HaV)cock, Dr. White, O'Neil, Shoi-tess, Newell, Lucier, (iray, Gervais, Hub- hard, M'lloy, Smith and Gay, were apj)(>inted to serve on the com- mittee. About two weeks hiter the committee assembled at the Falls, many other ijentlemen being present and j)articipating in their deliberations. Ucv. Jjuson I^ee and (ireorge Abernethy, as rep- resentatives of the Methodist Mi.ssi(»n sentiment, made speeches in opposition to the }>ro[)osed action, l^nalde to come to a definite decision, the committee csUled a genend meeting to be held at Cham- poeg on the second of Miiy, and then adjourned. A document op- [losing the proposed tietion, and styled " An address of the Canadian citizens of Oregon to the meeting at (/htimpoeg," was prepared by the anti- American element, and circidated among the Canadian French population foi' signatures. This element held four meet- ings to organi/.e an opposition to the iDovement — one at Vancouver, one at the Falls, and two at Chanipoeg. The C'anadians were drilled to vote "No" on till (jiiestions, and LeHreton, whose previous affili- ation with the Catholic ehMiient gave him an opportunity to learn of these plans, ndvised that some measure be introduced upon which they shotdd j)ro])ei'ly \ote"Ves," to thus throw them mio confu- sion and expose tlieir ttictics. The settlers ji.ss«'mbled at Chanipoeg in forc<* on the second day of May, and cotisiderable skirmishing was indidged in, the Canadians invariably voting "No" on all t|Uestions without reference to the hearing they had upon the in- terests they rej)rescnted jind Ix'coming much demoralized in conse- «|U«'nce. Lelireton, who had made a careful cjinvass of those in 254 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. attendance, finally exclaimed, " We can risk it, let us divide and count I" Gray shouted, " I second the motion I" Jo. Meek then stepped quickly out of the crowd, and raising his voice to a high pitch, shouted, " Who's for a divide? All for the report of the com- mittee and oriranization, folknv me?" The Americans quickly raniretl them. -Ives on his sich^ and a count (hneloped the fact that fifty-two stood in line with him and only fifty on the oppos-ng side. "Three cheers for our side!" exclaimed Meek, and as the i»'sponsive cheere rose in the air, the defeat u Canadians withdrew and grad- ually left the victors to conduct the remainder of the proceedings to suit theujselves. The Committee of Twelve then reported in favor of the selec- tion of a Legislative Committee, and this [>lan was ad<tpted. Messrs. Hill, Sliortess, Xewell, Beers, lluhhard. Gray, O'Ned, Moore and Dougherty, were selected for the conunittee, ami were instructed to rejM»rt a plan of government to a meeting to be held at Champoeg on the fifth of July. Their session was limited to six days, and their per diem was fixed at $1.25, which wjis at once contributed to the Goveriiment l»y the members. Beers, Parrish and Babcock volunteered to ju'ovide gratuitously for the board of the committee, an<l the Mission tendered the five use of its old granaiT for a council chamber. The committee assembled at the Falls on the tenth of May, in the l)uilding mentioned, certainly a m«)st un[)retentious structure for the deliberations of a legislature. It was a frame building, 16x30 feet, and one and one-half stories high, the upper |jorti(»n being used tis a slee|)ing ajjartment and storage room. The lower story was divided into two compartments, one of tiu-m doiiig dutv as a scliool room and church, antl the other as a warehouse for the storage of wheat. Such were the accommodations fiijoywl by the first Legislature of Oregon. It was a plain, serviceable struc- ture, and they were plain, nnitter-of-fact men who had met there t<» delilxrate for the public good. The Legislature opened its session bv ch(K>sin<r Robert Moore for Chairman, and (teorire W. LeBn'toii for Secretary. The «piestion of an executive head for the govern- ment was first considered; and this was a matter of consideralde delicacy. The interests represent«'d by the vari«»us iiduiliitants of Oregon, as has been shown, were ((uite distinct, an<l in >ome re- spects, were inclined to clash with each othei-. To chouse an exec- AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL OOVERNMKNT. 255 utive from any one of these was calculated to array the others in either open or covert hostility to the Government. It was finally decided that it would, under the circumstances, he judicious lo re- pose that authority in an Executive Conunittee of three persons, who should represent the strons^est and most desiral)le interests amoni; the various classes to be included in their jurisdiction. The Legislature adjourned after a session of three days. On the fifth of July the people again assendded at Chanipoeg to hear the report of the Legislative Committee, the meeting being presided over by Rev. Gustavus Ilines. The Canadian citizens who signed the address spoken of a])ove were pi'eseiit in force at the meeting on the second of May and participated in rhe proceedings, voting against oi-gaiiizution, as has been related. Their address was not then presented, but later was place,! in the hands of a sub- committee of three to whom the Legislative Committee had dele- gated the task of arranging the laws ptussed bv them for sul (mission to the meeting now under discussion. After examiniui' it the com- mittee returned it to the Secretarv, with instructions to iile it among the public documents, as a record of the inteivsts and persons op- posed to the oi'ganization «)f a government. At the meeting now being considered many of them were jiresent and took part, ex- pressing themselves as favorably disposed towards the ol)ject sought to lie obtained by the Americans. Othe.i's, however, declined to attend, and asserted that tliey would not submit to the authority of any g<»vernment which might be organized. This was also the po- sition assumed l»y the Catholic Missionaries and the rejn'esentatives of the Hudson's Hay Company, the latter even addressing a com- nninicati(m to tlie leaders of the organization movement, stating that they felt almndantly able to defend both themselves and their po- litical rights. This was the status of affairs when Mr. llines an- nounced the meeting as prepared to hear the i-eport of the com- mittee. Tiie report of tlie committee was presented by Chairman Moore and read by the Secretary, Mr. i^eHretou. The debate whicli fol- lowed was exceedingly animated, Mr. llines vigorously opposing the three-fold executive head proposed by the comuiittee. Dr. Bab- eock also opposed it on the ground that it looked too much like a pernument form of govei'ument, instead of the temporary makeshift 256 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. which he supposed was the object of the gathering. ( )'Neil and Shortest sustained the report, and Mr. Gray made a forcible, and, as it appears, a convincing, argument in its favor, using the follow- ing languag;^: — Mk. Pkksidkxt an'i> Fellow Citizens:— The speech which we have just listened to, troiu our presiding officer (G. H. Hines) is in the main correct. It is true that the Leirishitive Coninilttee were not instructed to bring before you an executive deiiaitiuent in the law and government you proposed to form, when you appointed your coinniittee to j)repare thesie laws. It is also true that svlien that coninilttee met they found that they coulid not advance one step in accomplishing the worl< you instructed them to perform, without some sujiervising intlueiicesome- where ; in sliort, without a head. Their instructions being against a governor, they have provided an Kxecutive Committee in place of a single man for governor. The executive head is to act in place of a senate council and governor. This pro* vision is before you for your approval or rejection. With the Executive Committee our organization is complete; without it, we have no head; no one to :-iee that our laws arc executed, and no one to grant a reprieve or pardon in case the law should be enforced against the life or projierty of any one for the violation of any law, no matter what the circumstances connected with the real or sujiposed violation might be. Now, fellow citizens, let us look calmly at our true situation. We are two thou- sand five liiiiidred miles from any point from which we can receive the least assist- ance by land, and seventeen thousand miles by water. A portion of our community are organized an<l ready to protect themselves, and to defend all their rights and interests, .Another organization of a religious character is in our midst — I should say, two. They each have a head or executive. How is it with us? Who is our head in all that pertains to our civil liberty, rights and property? It is possible the gentlciuaii may wisli us to remain as unprotected, as helpless and exposed to all the dangers that surround us on every hand as we have heretofore been. If he does, you, fellow citizens, I am sure (lo not wish to add to his feclilene.ss liy destroying the organization you have commenced, because he is afraid of what some Ca-sar did in Konie. We are acting for ourselves and those immediately dependent uinm us for protection. In union there is strength. I believe you are fully satisfied your committee acted honorably, and, as they thought, for the good of all they repre- sented. If siidi is the case, you will approve of tlii'ir acts, and our organization will be complete as they have jirepared it for this meeting. A vote wjis then tiikcii, which resulted in tin almost unanimous adojition of the report. The next thing in order wtis the election (^f the n«'c('ssary (ifficcrs. Alanson Beers, David Hill and J<)seph Gale were chosen for tlie K.xecutive Conunittee, and thus the fii^st reguliir goveniment in Oregon was provided. That this wjus a movement ptu'ely American, and the government of a temponiry character tinly, is jittest*-*! by the preandde to the laws ailoptwl, which stat<'s that: — We, the iH-ople of Oregon Territory, for the purpose of mutual protection, and to secure p«»ace and pros|>erity among ourselves, agree to adopt the following Ihwh AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL QOVKUNMENT. 25^ und regulations, until such time as the United States of America extend tlieir Ju- risdiction over UB. The following certificate was issued to the Executive Committee as a warrant of office: — This certifies that David Hill, Alanson Beers and Joseph (iaie, were chosen the Executive Committee of the Territory of Oregon, by the i)eoj»le of Huid Territory, and have taken the oath for the faithful performance of the duties of their offices, as required by law. GEORGE W. LkBRETON, Recorder. Wall • met, Orkgon Tebkitoby, July 5, 18-13. Says Mr. Thornton, in sjjeaking of the place where these pro- ceedings were taken: — It may not be quite uninteresting to say that the state Hoiwe in which all this was done was in several respects difTerent froni that in whlcli laws are made at Wasliington City. The Orejron State House was built witli jiosts set upri^lit, one end set in the ground, grooved on two sides, and tilled in witli poles i..i(l split tim- ber, such as would be suitable for fence rails, with plates and poles acrosn tlie top. Rafters and horizontal poles, instead of iron ribs, held the cedar l)arl< which was used instead of thick copper for roofing. It was twenty by forty feet, and did not tlierefore cover tliree acres and a half. At one end some puncheons were put up for a platform for the President; some poles and slabs were ])lace(l around for seats; tliree planks about one foot wiile and twelve feet long, placed ujKin a sort of stake platform for a table, were all tliiit was iK-iieved to be necessary for the use of the Legislative Committee and the clerks. It is due to the people who met to ajjprove or disapprove of the acts of that conmiittee, to say that perfect order and decorum characterized all the proceedings of July .jth, 1843. The following officers, chosen at the meeting on the second of May, were continued in office until the election of their successors on the second Tuesday in May, 1S44, at which time, also, a Legis- lative Committee of nine was to he chi»sen: A. E. Wilson, Su[)reme Judge; G. W. LeBreton, Clerk and Recorder; J. L. Meek, Sheriff; W. H. Willson, Treasurer; A. B. Smitli, Compo, L. II. JuJ- son and Hugh Bm-ns, Magistrates; Stpiire EUbetts, F. X. Mattliieu and Reuben Lewis, Con8tal>les; J(»hn Howard, Majt>r; S. Smith, C. McRoy and William McCaity, Captiiins. Having thus related the steps taken for the idganizatioii of a government, it is in order to consider the great immigration of 184.'i, which arrive<l a few weeks later, and created such a pre- [)onderance of American sentiment that the stability of the Pro- visional Government was assured. There were, however, a few in- cidents which occurred prior to that great era in Oregon history, whose effect upon the 8ubse([iient events wius extremel}' marked, and thus renders them of comparative importance. Th'se relate to in- 258 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ckleuts t;ro\viiig init of the intense competition of the ojjposing mis- sionaries fc»r sj)iritual control of the natives. In 1841 the Catholics made proselytes of the Cascades Indians, who had f.)rmerly been under tlie influence of the Methodist Mission at The Dalles, com- pletely winning them away from Mr. Waller. This greatly in- tensilied the existinij bitterness between the reli<i:ious factions. The Catholics were rapidly growing in power and influence, the Method- ists were as rapidly declining, and the missions of the American lioai'd were making but feeble progress. Aside fi'om the ascen- dency gi-adually being acijuired by the Catholics, there was one peculiar reason why the Protestant missionaries lost favor with the Indians; and this was their affiliation with the American settlers, who were regaixh'd l)y the natives as intruders. They did not want wliite people to settle here and take possession of the land over which they and their fathers had ruled for yeai-s. This feeling led the Nez Perce chief Ellis, in 18-K), to forbid A. B. Smith to cultivate a patcli of ground on the Alpowa. The Hudson's Bay Company en- couratfed the idea anion*; the Indians that the missions were but step2)ing-stones to American occupation, and this idea was supported l»y the conduct of those in charge of the Methodist mission in the Willamette, whidi liad become the general headquarters for Amer- ican settlei's, as well as tlie energetic and prominent part taken by Dr. AVhitmau in brimjinij: immii;rants into Oregon. The fur com- pany had been here for years, and had not only not taken their lands, but had supplie<l them with a market for their furs and l)orses; yet the Americans, who were but newcomers, were already taking a\vay their lands, and more airived yearly. The outgrowth of this was a feeling of bitterness against the Americans and the Protestant missionaries, in which neither the Hudson's Bay Com- f>any nor the Catholics were included; and this feeling intensified from year to year. It was manifested in 1841 by insulting and threatening conduct towards the missionaries both at Waiilatpu and Lapwai, and in 1842 this became so threatening that an effort was made to check it. Dr. Elijah White, whose arrival that fall with authority as an Indian Agent has been noted, paid a visit to tlie Nez Perces in Novem))er, accompanied })y Thonms McKay and Mr. Archibald ]\IcKinlay, agent at Fort Walhi Walla. A treaty was concluded, aud the triby adopted a systt^m of laws, in which the AMERICANS ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 259 general principles of right and justice were embodied in a form suit- able to their customs and condition. The same laws were adoj)ted by the Wascopums, at The Dalles, but nothing was accomplished with the Cay uses. The next year Baptiste Dorion, a half-breed in- terpreter for the Hudson's Bay Company, upon his own responsibil- ity, circulated the story that the Americans were coming up in the summer to take their lands. This created great excitement among the tribes along the base of the Blue Mountains, and the young braves wanted to go to the Willamette at once and exterminate the settlers. They were held in check by the older ones, ^vhile Peo-peo-mux- mux, the great Walla Walla chief, went to Vancouver to investi- gate. He was informed by Dr. McLoughlin that he did not believe the Americans entertained such an idea, and his report to the tribes allayed the excitement to a certain extent. Dr. AN'hite went up in April to hold a council with the Cayuses, and they adopted the Nez Perce laws, electing Five Crows, who lived on the Umatilla not far from the site of Pendleton, as head chief. The result of this was to restore the feeling of security for a time. Several French Canadians were to have accompanied Dr. White, but were advised to remain at home by Dr. McLoughlin. This action of the Chief Factor has been se\erely censured and has served as an argument to prove that the Hudson's Bay Company was stiri'ing up the Indians to drive the Americans from the country. The Amer- ican settlers had but a few days before unanimously signed a memorial to Congress, in which Dr. McLoughlin was severely cen- sured. About this time, also. Father Demers arrived fi'om the in- terior and informed him that the Indians were oidy incensed against the Boston people, and had nothing against the French and King George j)eople; but they were determined the Bostons sliould not have their lands and take away their liberties. Learning that his people were in no danger, and snnirting under the undeserved charges in the memorial, it is not at all unnatural that he should say: "Let the Americans take care of themselves." It was thus matters stood when the great immigration of l)S4;i arrived, demon- strating to the Indians that their fears \vere far from groundless. CHAPTER XVI. Dlt. WHITMAN AND THE EMIGRATION OF 1843. What Induced the K mUj ration of ISIfS — Steeps Taken to Organize the Movement — Dr. Whitinatt's Character — His anxiety to Americanise Oregon — The Ashhurtim Treaty and the Cod Fishery — Whitman's Deci 'on to Visit Washiit'jtou — 57«? Waiilaj)tu Meeting — The Un- fortunate Controversy t.'ver the Services of Dr. Whitman — Gray^s Walla Walla Romance — Its Absurdity Pointed Out — The Facts — Whitvnni and Lovrjinfs Journey- — Extent of Whit/nan's Jnfuence in I ndnciny Emigration — His Visit to Washington and Boston — Organization and Journey of the Emigrants — List of Emigrants and Popiflation of Oregon in 18^3 — Fremont^s Exploring Party. IN iiearl} sill piwious writings upon this subject the emigra- tion of 1843 has been considered from the wrong end — from the Oregon end — the -destination of the emigrants, instead of the Mississippi \' alley, their starting point. It should be viewed from the place where the movement had its inception, to obtain a correct and adecpiate understanding of the subject. The great emigra- tion to Oregon that year was the I'esult of causes which ha<l ])een at work for a number (»f yeai's, and was not a haat)' and ill-consid- ered action of people suddenly aroused ])y the voice of one nuin, a*< it has too often been represented. With tlie diplomatic negotiations whicli terminated in a treaty of joint occupation; with the efforts i)f Hall J. Kelley and others to induce emigration to Oregon, and with the struggle made by Bon- neville, Wyeth and others to enjoy practically the theoretical bene- fits of the comi^romise treaty, the previous pages have ilealt at length. All these had a tendency to turn the attention of the peo- j)le towards this far-off land, and especially of those hardy, self-re- liant and adventuresome men who were then building up those I)K. WHITMAN AXD THE EMIGKATIOX OK KOKTY-THltKK. 2«1 powerful States which lie in the Valley of the Mississippi. They received better, more direct and more reliable information of the character and accessibility of Oregon than did the residents of the Atlantic slope, whose ideas of this region were largely formed from the depreciatory writings of English jiuthors. As has before been said, Irving's "Astoria" and "Bonneville," Dr. Parker's book, the letter written in 1839 })y Robert Shorteas, Congressional reports and debates, and other brief publications had given those who cared to read them pretty correct ideas of Oregon. The trappei*8 who had in person visited this region in some of their numerous journeys through the mountainotis West, or had learned them from the lips of such of their (!ompanions as had done so, sang the pi'aises ()f Oiegon's mild climate and the l)eautiful Valley of the Willamette, along the whole frontier. Oregon became a familiar word in St. Louis and throughout the region bordering on the Mis- sissippi and tributary to that great center of the fur trade. The "Oregon Hills" introduced into Congress in the fall of 1842 by Senator Linn, of Missouri, have been referred to, as well Jis their consignment to temporary oblivion l)y his death the following year. These attracted much attention along the fi'ontier, and hundreds who had ]>re\iously Iteen deterred from following their inclination to emigrate to this land of dispute, l)ecoming convinced that it was the intention of the (iovernment to assert in earnest its claim to this region, and that the bill donating to each emigrant one section of land woidd be pjissed, resolved to make the hazardous journey. Said one of these, Gen. E. L. Applegate, in a recent speech: — This proposition d«>oj>ly toiiclied the heart of the western pioneer. He had pr()hal)l.v crossed the Bine Hid^e or the ( unilierland Mountains when a boy, and was now in liis ]irinie. Itugued, liardy and jtowerful of frame, lie was full to over- flowing with the love of adventure, and animated by a brave soul that scorned the very idea of fear. All had heard t)f the perpetually green hills and plains of West- ern Oregon, and how that the warm breath of the vast Pacillo tempered the air to the genial degree and drove winter far back towards the north. Many of them contrasted in the inutgination the open stretch of a mile scpuire of rich, green and grassy land, where the strawberry plant bloomed through every winter month, with their circumscribed clearings in the Missouri B»>ttom. Of long winter esenings neighbors visited each other, and before the big shell-bark hickory fire, the seasoned walnut fire, the dry black jack lire, or the roaring dead elm tire, they talked these things over; and, as u natural consequence, under these favorable circumstances, the spirit of emigration warmed up ; and the "Oregon fever" became as a house- hold expression. Thus originated the vast cavalcade, or emigrant train, stretch- ing its Btirpentiue length for miles, enveloped in the vast pillars of dust, patiently 202 III8T0RT OF WILLAMKTTK VALLET. wending Ite tDilsoine way across the Amerionn Continent. How familiar these scenes and experiences with tlie old pioneers! Tlie vast plains; tin* uncountable herds of l>uft°alo: tlic swift-footed antelope; the luin<ls of niouiitcii, painted warriors; the runKt'*' snow-capi)ed mountain ranges; the deep, swift and dangerous rivers; the lonesome howl of the wild wolf; the midnight yell of the assaulting savage; the awful panic and stampede; the solemn and silent funcnd at the dead hour of iiiy;ht, and tlie lonely and hidden >?raves of departed Iriends— what memories are associated with the " plains across ! " Tlip first united effort was a moeting held in Alton, 111., on the eighth of Novt'inlxT, 1S4'J, at wliich were jtassed resolutions urging the iniportanee of a speedy occupation of Oregon. These resolu- tions were introduced liy General Seinple, a prominent citizen of that State who had taken great interest in this region, and were supported by him in an ehxiuent speech. Another ni'i'ting was held at S[)ringfield, the State Capital, on the fifth of tl. following February, which was participated in l)y many distinguished men of Illinois, and similar resolutions were passed. One of those present was the gifted and ehxpient Col. E. I). Haker, wlio after- wards became a United States Senator from Oregon, and, strange to say, he was one of two gentlemen who s[)oke in op}>osition to tlie resolutions. The ft)llowing July, several weeks after the emigra- tion had taken up its toilsome march, "a Convention of Delegates from the States and Territories of the AVest and Southwest " as- sembled in Cincinnati, and passed resolutions urging Congress to assert the claim of the United States as far north as "iifty-four- forty" immediately. How this became a political (piestion the fol- lowing year, will be made clear in the next cha[)ter. In these various \va\'s quite an interest was stirred up in the Mississippi States, during the winter, and it became generally un- derstood, and was so announced by the few papers printed along the border, that a larcje emiy;ration would start for Orecjon the fol- lowing spring, rendezvousing at Independence, Missouri. It is now that Dr. Whitman aj^pears upon the scene, and to ex- plain his sudden entre it is necessary to relate incidents occui'ring in Oregon the summer and fall previous. Although, for geographical reasons, he did not participate in the various efforts of the settlers in the Willamette Valley to form a Provisional Go\ernment, his heart was in the movement. He was the most keenly tdive to the necessities of the hour, and more w'atchful of the true interests of the Americans than even the most prominent actors in the govern- I)K. WHITMAN AN'D THE EMIORATION OF FORTVTIIKKK. >>(■).•{ ilong nipntiil agitation. He was a true American, jealous of his country's honor and zealous to promote her interests. His faith in the future — the American future — of Oregon was unhoun(le<l, and his mind penetrated the misty veil with prophetic power. As early as IS.'iS an incident «>ccurred which revealed his abiding faith in the destiny of Oregon. Dr. William C McKay relates an anecdote which is of importance to show Whitman's ideas on this sul)ject at that early day. His father, Thomas McKay, dcfcided to send him to Scotland to be (Hlncated, and with this end in view they started up the C»dund)ia. Whitnnin and McKay being warm friends, they decided to spend a few days at Waiilatpu, where they were to separate, AVilliam to accompany the annual ^lontreal express by the Manitoba route, and his father to proceed to F'ort Hall, where he was the company's agent. Dr. M'^hitman urged ^IcKay to send his son to th(^ United States to be educated. "Make an American of him," said he, "for this country will surely belong to the Ameri cans." McKay was convinced, and William's route was changed fiom ManitoVia to the Fcrt Hall trail. He went to Fairfield, N. v., and entered the same school at which Dr. Wndtman wa.s edu- cated, returning to Oregon a few years latei" as a medical practi- tioner. Several other incidents, the details of which it is needless to relate, contirm the statement that the Doctor was a true, zealous, watchful and energetic guardian of Amt^rican interests in Oregon. When Governor Simpson visited this region in the fall of 1841, followed a few days later by the immigrants from Red River, whose arrival has Iteen previously noted. Dr. Whitman, with luh acute per- ceptive qualities, in a measure defined the intentions of the company. He realized with the convincing force of a revelation, that nothing l»ut a great an<i unex[)ec,ted intlu.x of American immigrants could thwart the de('i)-laid plans of the gr<!at corporation. He became restless and anxious. It seemed to him that it was necessary for some one to return to the States and arouse the people and the Government to the exigencies of the liour. Procra.stination was dangerous and supine inaction was fatal; yet his missionaiy work was a charge U[)on his mind which could not be lightly shaken off. When the immigration of 1842 arrived, as has l>een related, many of them camjied for a time in the vicinity of the mission. ^Vmong these was A. Lawrence Lovejoy, with whom Whitman frequently 2<14 IlIHTORY OF WILLAMETTE \ ALLKY. and ciinu'stl y conversctl on the subject of < )reuon and events and «»[)inions In the K.ist iiffectinsi; it. He h*arned that Lord Ashlnirtou, an enihassador of (jreat Britain, was evt-n then in \\'ashin<;ton ne- gotiatini; for a setth'uient of the houndarv line l»et\ve' n C'ana(hi and the rnite<l States; and naturally supposiuir that in this th«' Oregon Question was involved, he heeanie e«invine«Ml that it was liis duty to proeeed to Washiuirton with all dispateh jxi.-*siMe, and enligliten tlie Govenmu'nt uj)on the subject, knowiui; full well that tlie value of this nia<;nificent region was n<)t in the least reali/.eil l»v the author- ities or the pe«)ple generally. It has been fretpiently state<l that the Government was considering a ju'oposition made by Lor<l Ashbur- ton to abandon all claim to Oregon, in con-;ideration of «-ertain fish- ing privileges on the Atlantic cojist of British America, and that this intelligence was conveyed to AVhitman by Lovejoy. How this took its rise it is impossible to ascertain, as all efforts to trace it to a source have been futile. Lt)vejoy does not say so in his account of these events; no one has testified that Whitman ever ma<le such an asser- tion, and it seems utterly without foundation. The records of the State Department do not disclose any such negotiations; they were publically and emphatically denie<l by Daniel AVel)ster, tlu'ough whom, as Secretary of State, the negotiations were c<»nducted, and, finally, the Oregon Question was not inclu(h*<l in the negotiations at all, which had sole reference to the unsettled boiuidarv line further east. To be sure it is now clainunl — and it was not so at first — that this portion of the negotiations was secret and confiden- tial; but if such was the case it becomes still more incumbent upon those who make the assertion to province some kind of evidence which will weigh against the positive denial of one of the principal actors. No such evidence has ever l)een pr<Hluceil, an<l it rests solely upon unsupported assertion. It is endent tliat the cod fishery episode, with all the changes that have })een rung upon it V»y dra- matically disposed writers and enthusiastic si^eakeiN, is utterly with- out foundation. As it was, however, Whitman decided that his duty to his country was paramount to his duty to the American Boanl, and he determined to return East. About this time, probably at the hands of the emigrants, Whitman received notice from the lioard that it had decided to discontinue the missions, which were very expensive DH. WHITMAN AND THE EMIOKATION OF FORTY TIIKKK. 265 and were maklnj; imsatisfactory progi'ess, and tliongh tluH, |)i'(il»a- l»ly, liad sonu'tliinf^ to do with his (h'terniination to <so East, his conduct wliile tlicn- shows tliis consideration to have In-cn a second- ary one. lie summoned his associates fr(»m the]^a}>\vai and Tshini- akain missions, to consult in re<;ard to the matter, S|»aldlng, (tray, Eells and Walker promptly respt)nded to the call, and when the Doctor laid l»efi)re them the jdau he had formed, they opposed it nuanimously. To their objection that politics should ni»t l»e per- iuitte<l to interfere with missionary work, he replied that his first dutv was to his country, and if necesNary to choose hetween the two he would resign his mission. Knowing his inflexible character and deep convicti(»ns of duty, they dared no longer o}>|)(tse him for fear of losing the master spirit of their mission. Says Mi-. Eells: "AVe yielde<l oidy when it became eyident that he would go, even if he had to become disconnected with the missi(»n in order to do so." Whitman was accordingly ofiicially delegated t<) proceed to lioston t<» transact business pertaining to the missions, and the various mis- sionaries departed to their several stations to prepare reports »nd letters for him to take, the date of his depurture being fixed at the fifth o( October. T'lls was done in order to conceal the real ol)ject of such an Uiiprecedeuted undertaking — a winter journey across the mountains. An official record of this meeting was ke[)t, up(Mi the face of which ap})eared only the proceedings which had I'cfei'ence to mis.<-ionary work. This was destroyed at the time of the AN'hitman Mussacre, but its loss is immaterial, except that it would detei-niine the date of the meeting. As to the nature of the proceedings, there is sufficient I'eliable oral testimony to settle that beyontl dispute. Mr. Eells, whose word no one who knew him would ever question, says the meeting was held in September. He ad<ls: "After an extended diseussion, it was voted unanimously that Dr. Whitman have the api)roval of the mission to attempt to make the journey as hereinl)efore indicated. The controlling object Wiw to make a des- perate attempt to save the country to the Unit(;d States. It was also expected that the opportunity would be imjiroved for the transaction of business relating to the mission. The fifth of the the following October was set as the day on -which Dr. Whitman would start. Letters were to be prepared and forwarded accord- 266 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. inirly. Prft1)al>ly fvont;* transpirini^ in tho intervening time hastened liis departure, so that he h>ft on the tliird o£ October." This feature of Oregon history lias been the subject of much lit- erary controvei-sy. No one can have rea(' the preceding pages with- out liaving become convinced of the sterling integrity, Hrniness of purj)ose and energy of action of Dr. Whitman. His character and services to the American cause entitle him to the tirst plac<' among those whosi' memory th« citizei.s of Uregon sliould ever revere, and whom all true Americans slntuld honor; yet zealous friends have in their eagerness to place laurels on his brow, claimed f(»r him more than he ever would have sanctioned or pei-Juitted had he not fallen before the treacherous Idows of ungrateful savages. In tlieir zeal they have alli»wed their imaginations to take too lofty flights and have wandered too far into the realms of ronuuice, 'I'hat most of these have been absolutely sincere, their sympathies, pei'haps, being somewhat too deeply stirred by denominiitii>nal influences, is bevond (pH'stion; yet so much can not be said of the author of the (jues- tionalile st(»ry ujton which has been laid the f(»undation of their claims, who, apj)arently, was actuated by the desire to shine in the reflected light which would naturally fall upon him as an asso- ciate with the martyred mi->ionary in his early lab(»rs ajuong the Indians. In this he overshot the mark, and drew down '>ipon him- self the vigorous criticism of those who, wishing not to in the least tU'tract from the just merits of Dr. Whitman, earnestly desii-ed that the actual facts only should Hnd a place in recorded history. It is to be regn'ttinl that certain writ<'rs have been led by their disbelief in this romance to take tlie negative throughout, and not oidy deny Dr. Whitman any honoi* whatever, but «'ven accuse hini of deceit- ful, treaclu-iMUs and selfish conduct. Suidi >vriters are o]>en to the same I'harge of prejudice and unfairness which the\' lay at the door of the author of this unfortunate controversy. A\'ell might Dr. Whitman exclaim — with others whose rejiutation has been jeopai'd- ized by mistaken zeal — "Save me from my frien ' . ' The contro- versy lias not been without its l)enefits. It has settled beyond dispute in the mintls of tho>e who have given the subject a just and careful consideration, the permanent and e.xalted position Dr. Whitman must everoccu|»v in the annals of ( >rei:-on. To estal)lish this tlu' romance was unneces-sury, yet as it ha« been widely cirouluteil, and DU. WHITMAN AND THE EMIORATION OF FOnTY-THUEK. 267 tiiuls a place in a nunilKT of historical .skctclu's and ostensilile liistorics of Ort'goii, it becomes necessary to relate it, tot;ether with tlie few simple, undeniable facts wliicli refute it. This i-o- iiiaiice WIS not the production of Mr. E<'lls. That ijentlenian never unch.iincd his fancy when relatiiiir facts. lie would not un- dertake the Ini/.ardous feat of r<'])rodncin<:; the exac^ lanuuaife used hy several peo[)le in a conversation occurriiiir tliir; , years liefore, :it which he was not present, and with the hai'e sul)>tance of which he couhl alone be acquainted. That such was attempted indicates how little the necessity of adherinjij to the exact facts weijxhed upon the mind of the author of the romance. It was first <;iven to the World in (irny's " History of Ore<i;()n," {)ublished a number of years au'o l»y William II. (rray, whose intense Americanism and bitter antaijfonism to the Hudson's Hay Company led him to take the prominent and leading,' part we have just seen he acted in the or- i,'ani/-ation of the Provisional (Jovernment, and which, l)eeominij: in- tensified and more firmly setth-d as tiie years rolled by, ren(h're<l him incompetent to form an unprejudiced opinion or do justice to those to whom he was instinctively o[)posed. The work referred to contains the following j)aragrapli: — In Septemhor, 1W42, Dr. Wliltnmn wa« onllwl to visit a patient at old l-'ort Wallu Wiilla. Willie llu'i'c a luiMilx'i' of lioats (if tlu' lIudsDii'.t Kay ( 'niiipaiiy, witii sev- eral eiiief trailer.-t and Jesuit prieslM, on tln'lr way to tlio interior of the eoiinlry, arrived. Wliile at dinner, tlie overland express from Canada arrived, brin^rinn news that llie eniiirnilion from the Ited Kiver settlement was at Colvilie. 'I'liis news exrited iini\ers!d joy anionn tlie nuests. One of them, a xounjr prirsi san;:: :>nt: ■' Uurrali fur Oregon, .Vmeriea is too late; we liave ^ol the eoi! iry I" " Now the Ainerieans may wliistle; tlie country is ours!'' said anotlier. Whitman learned tluit the eonuiany had arranjjed for these Red River Kiijfli'^lt setOcrM to eome on to si'llle in Oi'etfon, and at the same time ({overnor Simpson was lo ^fo in WasliinKton and seenre the seUlemeiit of the ipiestion as to the iMUiiidarles, on llie urmind of llie most nnmerons ani^perniai. . nt settlement in the eiaintry. The Doeior was taunted with Ihe idea tluit no power could prevent this resint, as no information eoidd reach Washlnirton in liiiieto prevent it. " ff h/hi// fii jirrn nli <l," said the Doctor, " //" / /I'irt /i) i/ii III Wnslihiiilim itii/m /t'." " Hut yo'.i can not ko tliere to do it," was the taunting ''ciily of the llriton, "/ will «r»," was Ihe Doctor's reply. Tlie r«'ader is HUlMcleiitly ac(pialnted with the history nf this nntn's toil and lahor in iMinKlng his first wajroii throuiih to l"'ort Roise, to understand what he meant wh 'ii lu' said, " / iri/l Mcf." Two hours after tills conversation at the fort, he disuhiuntcd from his horse at his door at Waiilatpu. I saw ie. •. momt'iit that he was llxed on some Im- portant ohject or crranii. He soon explained that a special ell'ort must lie made to save the country from hecomitiK Rrlllsli territory. KverythitiK was in llie best of ord'T ahout the station, and lliere seemed tu he no important reason why he should nut gu. A. L. Lovejuy, LtKp, bud u I'utv duyii bofuK arrivtiu with this immlgralioQ. •26« HISTOUY OF WILLAMETTE VALLFT. It wa.« projjosod that lie should accompany the Doctor, which he consented to do, and in twenty-four hours' time they were well mounted and on their way ro the ?5tate8. Tlioiigli its iiu'lodramiitic style at once stamps it jw a piece of fiction, it is a.s well to point out the certain evidences of its inac- curacy. Fii-st — The K('(l River eniii^ration came in fhe yi'ar be- fore, jis has ali'eatly l>ecn related, and there were n<i emiirrants fi'oiii that region in 1H4l\ Second — Ai'chil)ald MeKiiday, thf gentleman in charge of Fort Walla Walla and a warm per>i»iial friend of Dr. Whitman, not only indignantly denies tjie iiii[>utation that he would permit him to he thus insulted while his guest, hut states that there wa.s n<» i>ne at the fort at the time of the visit referred to exc<'pt tht- half dozen regular attaches, and that the Montreal t'.\]»re» did not arrive until two weeks after Whitmaifs departun- for the East. durinir «hich time Mrs. Whitman was a guest at tjif fort, jirocccil- ing to \'aiicoii\.T lUKJer the protection of the c.vpn-ss l»rigade. Thin! — ^^ lii'iuairs resohition to go East, as has l»ccn amply shown alK>ve, wa> not a suddcidy conceived one, as (iray as-s^-rts, hut was the rt^uU »)f long consideratiim and dchherate th*cisiou, the e.xact •lay having heen fi.xed for his depai'ture prior to this visit to Walla Walla, as (ii-ay must have V'\(>wn, since he hnu pjirticipatcd in the meeting at Waiila]>tu. No news had come overland from the Kast e.\c«'pt such as the Amei'ican emigrants had hroughl, and of thi> Whitman was thoroughly informed before he went to Walla Walla. To iiUH't this objection the adherents to Gray's veision have of late dropptnl the Canada express, and put the intelligence which created Mich a scene of joy in the mouths of the brigade referred to as goiiiLf U[i the river; but they omit to state from what s.iurce this jtarty derivnl its gratifying iid'ormation. Some of them ai'e also eipially as reckless as the author of the fiction in the line of attempting to relate the exact language employed by Whitman and the enthusi- sia.stic I^.riton. It is needless to remark tliat they all succee<l in placing different w(U'ds in the mouths of the principal actors in the scene portrayed. Let us icturn to the <lonuiin of facts. Whitman «lid }»ay a visit to Fort Walla Walla, his obj«'ct in doing so being variously stated l»y persons then at Waiilatj)U. Some say that he went a.s a physician to render professional service to a sick jhmsoii; but Dr. Gtiger, wh<j, at the lequest of Whitman, had con.sented to UK. WHITMAN AND THE EMIOUATION OF FORTY-THKKK. 269 it'inain ill cliargf of tlit mission during the D(x*tor\s al)sinice iu the East, states that it was to interview his friend MeKinhis' in regard to the situation. Nothing reinarkalih' oeeurred, hut the visit whet- ted Whitman's an.xiety to (U'))art, and as the i)a])ers from Lapwai and Tshimikain had been reeeived, he (hnM(h'il to start at once and not wait until the thiy previously decided upon, thus saving two (lavs jit the l)e«;iiinintr <»f his journev. On the third of < )ctol>er, 1S42, Whitman and Lovejoy turned their harks ujnm Oregon and entere<l holdly upon a journey they knew would he attended with liardshij)s and suffering such as they had never lu'fore e.\j»erieiiced. The only records of this memora hie journey are a lettei- hy Mr. Love- joy detailing the incidents of the trip across the mountains, and de- tadied jind fi'agnieiitai'y statements hy several gentlemen who clain.i to lia\ iversed with Whitman on the suhject, hy emigrants who saw him in the train in l>ih'{, and liy several parties who saw him ill the Kast, at St. L<uns, Washington and Boston. From the nohle martyr himself there comes no word, save a letter written while at St. r.ouis thc'following spring, Avliich incontestahly estahlishes the fact that he wa> doing his utmost to [)romote a huge emigration and to he of [)ersonal assistance to the emigrants. From these are gleaned *]u following facts, ones which no reasonahle person will dispute. Of that memorahle journey liovejoy's letter says: — We left Wiiiilatpu October .'{, 181L', truvcltd rapidly, reached Fort Hull in cloven • lays; rciuainoii two days to recruit an<i make a few purcluweH. The Doctor cMKiitri'd II nuiilc and we li It lor Fort Wintee. We cliaiiKcd from a direct route to one more soiiliicrii, tlii'oiiKli llic Spanish cdunlry via Salt Lal^e, Taos and Santa Fc. On our way from I"'orl Hail to l-'ort Wintcc \vc liad tcrrihly severe wcallicr. Tlie snows rctardiMl our progress and lilindcd tlie trail so we lost imich time. After arriving at l'"orl Wintee and nuiliinK some purcliascs for our trip, we took a new guide and started for l"'ort Incnnipagra, situated on tlie waters uf (irand Hivcr, in the Spanish I'otinlry. Here our stay was very short. Wt; took a ni'w guide an<l started lor TaoH. After lieing out some four or live days we encountered a terrilic snow storm, which forced us to take siieller in a lU-e;) raviiu", where we reinaine<l siiowetl in for four days, at which time llie storm had somewhat aliated, and we attempted to nuike oiM' way out upon high lands, hut tlu' snow was so deep an<! the winds so piercinf< and cold we were compelled to return to camp and wait a few days for a change of weather. Our nt'.xt eflort to reach the high lamis was more iccessful ; hut after spending several days wandering arouiui in the snow witlwMit making much head- way, our guide toid us tliat the deep snow had so changed the face of the country that lu' was complcti'ly lost and couhl take us no further. This was a terrilile hlow 1(1 the Doctor, hut he was determ.i "i m)t to give it up without another efloit. We at once agreed that the Doctor should take the guide and return to Fort I'Dcumpagra and get a new guide, and I renudn in cam|i w '.U the aninuds until he could return ; which he did in seven days with our new guide, und we were now ou our routts -Si 270 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ncnin. Xotliinjr of much import occurred but hard and slow traveling through di'fp snow until we reached (inmd River, which was frozen on eitlier fide alx)ut oue-tliird across. AltlioiiKh so iiiteUMely cold, the current was so very rapid aliout one-tliird of the river in the center was not frozen. Our >ruide thought it would be danir-rous to attfinpt to cross the river in its present condition, luit the Doctor, notliiu'j; daunlrd. was tlic first to tulie the water. He mounted his liorse; thcguiile and myself slmved tlie Doctor ami liis liorse oil" tlic ice into the foaming stream. Away he went, i-ompictely under water, liorse ami all, Imt directly came up, and after (lutlrtim; the rapid, foaming' current, he reached the ice on the opposite shore, •I lomi way down the stream. He leaped from his liorse upon the ice ami snon had his iiolilf animal by his side. The guide and myself forced in the pack animals and fiilloweil the Doctor's example, and wen- soon on the opi)<isite shore drylnR our fni/cn clothes by a comfortable lire. We reached Tao» i:i al)out thirty days, siill'i rinyr^'rcally iVom cold and scarcity of provisions. We were compelled to use mule meat, (lii;.'s and >iich oilnr animals as came in our reach. We remained at Tcosafew days iiiily. anil started for ISent's and Savery's Kcrt, on the head waters of the Arkansas Illver. When we had been out some fifteen or twenty days, we met (icorRc llcnt. a l>nitlurof (Jovernor Hent, on his way to Taos. He fold us that a party of luiuintaiu men would leave Hent's Korf in a few days for St. Louis, but said wc would not reai-li the fort with our pack animals in time to Jolei the party. The Doctor beiiiij very anxlou> to join tlie party so he cnnid push on as rapidly a» possible to Wa-hiiiirton. <-oncUuled to leave myself and the ^:uide with the n'.dmals, and he himself taking the best animal with some bedding and a small allowance of jirovisiuiis, started alone, hoping by rapid traveling to reach the f.irt in time to join tlie St. Louis party, but to do so he would have to travel on the .Sabbath, some- thing 111' had nut done before. Myself and the guide traveled on slowly, and reached the fort In four days, but imagine our astonishment when on making incpilry alniut the Doctor we wi-re told that he had not arrived nor had he luen heard of. I learncil that the party for ."^t. Louis was ciimped at the Dig t'oitonwood, forty ndles from the fort, ami at my re(|iiest Mr. Sa\ery .sent an exj)rcss, telling the party not to proctH'd any further until we learned sonu'thing of Dr. Whitman's whereabouts, as he wished to accompany them to St. Lonis. }!eing furni.-'lied liy the gentlemen of the fort with a sidtalile gui<l< I started in search of the Doctor, and tr.iveled up the river about one iiundicd .niles. I learned from the Indians that a man had been there who waH hist and was trying to find Kent's Fort. They said they had directed him to go down the river and how to find the fort. I knew from their description it was the Doctor. I return-d to the fori iis rapidly a.s |h)ssiIiIc, but the Doctor had not arrived. We had all become very anxious abont l.i'n. Late in the aflcrmion In came in very much fatigued and liesponding; said tlial he knew that (lod had bewildered him to punish him for traveling on the >Subbath. During the whole trip he was very regular in his morning and evening devotions, and that was the only lime I ever knew him to travel on tlu' .Sabliatb. Whit mail at <hk'<» pu.slicd on with the iiioiMituiii('t'i>, U'aviii<; Lovejoy at Bent's Fort, and iviu'hed St. LoiiiH in Fchruaiv. Tht-n' he iiKinircd «'a<;<Tly altont the status of nejrotiationH on th*- (' «'gon Question, and learned that the Ashlnifton \\'<'l»ster tn ;tty had la-eii signed on the ninth of the ])ree('ding AugUHt, Keen rtititie*! I»y the S<'iiate, and had l>e<'n pi'oehiiined liy the Presi<h'nt (»n the tenth of Novendier. He was too htte hy more thtm thi." months t4> have prevented the treaty; Vtut his journey was not iu vain, for the DR. WHITMAN AND THE KMIORATION OF FOPIY-THUKE. 271 Oregon boundary had not been included in the treaty, had not even l)een discussed, in fact, as ajjpeai-s from Mr. ^^'el)ster's speeches and correspondence. This intellig«'nce lirought relief to tiie Doctor's overwrought feelings. There was still an opportunity for him to accomplish his purpose. He found great preparations lu-ing made all along the fnmtiev to emigi'ate to the Willauiiette ^'iillev, as has heen previously shown, notwithstanding the prevailing opinion that wagons ct)uM not proceed ]»eyond Fort Hall. He inuiiediately wrote a small pamphlet descril»ing Oregon an<l the nature of the I'oute thither, urging the people to emigrate and Jtssuring them that wag<»ns c<»uld go through, and that he would join them and he their ]tilot. Tills pamjddet and his e-iruest personal »pp;.iis were etHca- cious in adding somewhat to the nund»er «»f e.iiigi'aiits, though it is a fact that probably the greater portion of those who startecl from the bolder of Missouri in May never heard of Dr. Whitman until he joined them on the route. That Whitman's etTorts added some- what to the number of emigrants is true, but that he initiated the movement, or even ct)ntributetl largely to it, does lUst ai)-»','ar. lie was too late for that; the movement was well under way before his arrival. After writing his pamphlet his next anxiety wjim to reach Wash- ington before Congress adjourned, so that he might have an oppor- tunity to meet Congressmen and urge upon them the di.ims of Oregon. He did nt)t undertake to change his app.vrel, which is thus desi-ribed by Dr. William Harrows, who met him in St. I^ouis: "The Doctor was in coarse fur garments and vesting, and buckskin l)reeches. Me wore a buffah) coat, with a head-hood lor emergen- cies in taking a storm or a bivouac nap. What with lu-avy fur leggins and boot moccasins, his legs filltHJ up well his Mexiian stir- rups. With all this warmtli and almost burden of skin and fur clothing, he V)ore the marks of the irresistible ((dd and men-iless storms of his journey. His fingers, t-ars, nose and fe«t had been fiosr-bitten, and were giving him much tr<»ul)le." SucJi was NN'hitman in St. l,oui>, and such was he on the third t>f March wlien he appeare«l in Washington, having previously visited Ithica, New York, to obtain tlie co-operation of Dr. Sanuiel Parker, his lirst missionary associate, and still later in Boston, where lie treated the rebukes of the ()tfiiials of t\w American Board with 1 11 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. a ([iiu't (•(•iitcinpt that astonished them, lie found the ideas of Oregon prevailing at Wasliington to be far different from those ex- istinm>n the frontier. Public men possessed but a faint idea of the extent and natui'c of tlie vast area beyond the Koeky Mountains, deeming it a region of sterile soil and iidio><[)itable climate. Since Lewis and Clarke had subsisted upon dog meat, and Hunt's party had enduied such terrible privations in passing through it, the countrv lying between the C^iseades and l{<icky Mountains li:id been known as the"(«reat ^Vmerican Desert,'' and deemed fit only for the alxxle of migratory trappers and famine-afHieted savages. A year later, during a discussion of the Oregon (.^)uestion in Congress, a speakei' atlvanced this ich'a in the following langtmgc: " With the exception (»f the land along the Willamette and along a few of the water courses, the whole ci)unti'y is among tlie most irreclaima- bh". barren wastes of which we have read, except the desert of Sa- hara. Xor is this the worst of it— the climate is so unfriendly to human life that the native po])ulation Inis dwindled away under the ravagi's of its malaria to a degree which defies all history to furnish a parallel in so wide a ninge of country." To demonstrate th<^ error of this idea, and that Oreg(»n could be jtopulated by emi- gration from the Kast, was Whitman's task. He h,id numerous in- tervievvs with pulilic men, including l*resi<lent Tyler and Secretary Webster, in which he urged upon them the imjiortance of securing as niucli of that indefinite region known as "()regon" as possible, declaring thiit, so far was it from being a sfi rile waste, its agricul tural and timbei- resources were unbounded. He called (heir atten- tion to the large emigration already j)reparing, and confidently de- clare(l that he was able to, and would, guide them thioiigh by a route over which wagons could travel to the Willamette. His earnest pi'otestations matle a deep impression tipoji many, especially President Tyler, and he was assured that if he coulil thus demon- strate the practicability of colonizing Oregon by emigration across tlie Kocky Mountiiins, it would have a powerful effect ujxm the sohition of the vexed Oregon (.Question. The same v\riters, whose tendency toward romancing has fieen pointed (»ut above, have allowed their imaginations t()o much liberty in their relation of tlu' incidents connected with Whitnum -. visit to Washington. Nothing more is kuowu (if what occurreii tbeic than the crude facts just re- DR. WHITMAN AND TITE EMIGRATION OF FORTY-THREE. 273 lated ; and yet these writers undertake to state the exact lansiifuage employed by Dr. Whitman, Presi(hnt Tyler, Secretary AVebster, and others. Those words were never recorded, nor do these writers lay claim to direct information from the men who uttered them, and common regard for the purity of histoi'ical statement** shouhl cause them to refrain from any such clairvoyant efforts. When Whitman had accomplished the main object of his journey at Washington, he proceeded to Boston to attend to tlu; official business which had been the ostensible cause of his visit. This was so unimportant that the officers of the Board rebuked him for leav- ing his mission upon such a trivial pretext; but he shamecl them into silence by ti'eating their officious cliidings with lofty contempt. He then proceeded to his home, and, after spending a few days there, hastened to the frontier to join the emigrants, sonic <;' whom had already started and whom he did not overtake until they had reached the Platte, his apj)earance among them at tluit time being the first knowledge a nuijority of them had that such a in.-iu a-s Dr. Whitman was in existence. The circumstances attending the final starting of the emigrants, are thus related by Gen. .1. W. Nesinith: — Without orders fi-oni nny ()Uiirti>r, iinil without iirt'concert, promptly as tlic grass tjegan to sturt, the emigrants bofi^an to nssentble near Indepeiideiu'e, at a place called Fltzhnirh's Mill. On the seventeenth day of May, 184.'{, noticeH wereeinulated through the dilferent eneiinipnients that on the sueeeedin^t day, those v ho lontein- piated einif^ratinn to Orej^on, would meet at a deHJjrnated point to oriranlze. I'roinptly at theappoiiitid hourthe nii.iey Krouima»Hen\l)led. They eon»l»*le<l of peo- ple from all the States and Terr'tories, and nearly all nidionalitles ; the most, how- ever, from Arkansas, III iiois, Missouri ai\d Iowa, and all f anjfers to one another, l»ul impressed with som.' crude idea that there existed an imp»'rative necessily for some kind of an orcn-iization for nuitual proti'etion ajtalnst the hostile Im'ians inhahitinK the urreat unknown wilderness strelchlnj? away to the shores of the Paeltlc, and which they were aliont to traverse with their wives and children, household tjoods, an<l all their earthly posst •sions. Many of the endKrants were from the wislern tier of counties of Missouri, known as the Platte Purchase, and anionjr them was Peter II. lUirnett, a former i.'ierchant, who had abandoned the yird-sti<k and bcconu' a lawyer of some celei)- rity tVir his ability IIS a smoolh-tonnued advocate. He subseiiuenlly emigrated to ("aliforniw. i»nd was elected the llrst (tovernor of the (ioldcn State, was afterward Chief Justlee, and still an honored resident of that State. Mr. Hurnett, or as he was (kmiliarly designated, " Pete," was called ujion for a speech. Mounting a log, the tflib-tonstued orator delivered a glowiiin, florid address. He commenced by ithowlnit Ills audience that ihe then western tier of Slates and Territories was over- er<'wd»Hl .vith a redundant population, who had not suflici(>nt elbow room for the expansion of their enterprise and genius, and it was a duty they owed to them- selves and |K>sterlty t<> strike out in search of n more expanded fluid and more genial eliiuate, where the soil yielded the richest return for the slightest amount of 274 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. cultivation, where the trees were loaded with perennial fruit, and where a good sub- Btitiite for hreatl, calltMl La Cfimnnh, grew in the ground, salmon and other fish iTowded tlif HtreaniH, and where the ])rini>i|)al labor of the settler would be contlned to keeping their jrardeiis free from the inroads of bufTalo, elk, deer and wild turkeys. He iipjx'aled to our patriotism by pieturing forth the glorious empire we would eHtaltlish on the ^liores of the I'aeifle. How, with our trusty ritlen, we would drive out the British usurpers who elaimed the soil, anil defend the country from the avarice and pretensions «)f the Hritish lion, and how posterity would honor us for placing the f:iir(>st portion of our land under the dominion of the stars and stripes. He concludeil with a slight allusion to the trials and hardships incident to the trip, and dangers to be encountered from hostile Indians on the route, and those inhabit- ing the country whither we were bound. He furthermore intimated a desire to look upon the tribe of noble "red men" that the valiant and well-armed crowd around him could not vanquisli in a single encounter. Other siH'cches were made, full of glowing descriptions of the fair land of prom- ise, the far-away Oregon, which no one in the a.ssemblage had ever seen, and of which not more than half a dozen had ever rea<l any account. After the election of Mr. Burnett as ca|)tain, and other necessary ofllcers, the meeting, as motley and ])rimitive a one as ever assembled, adjourned, with "three cheers" for Captain Burnett and Oregon. On the 2 ith day of May, 1813, after a pretty thorough mili- tary organization, we took up our line of march, with Captain John Oantt, an old army ofTlcer, who coml)ini'd the character of trapper and mountaineer, as our guide, (fantt had in his wanderings lieen as far as Green River, and a.ssured us of the Iiracticability of a wagon road thus far. Green River, the extent of our guide's knowledge in that direction, was not half-way to the Willamette Valley, the then only inhabited portion of Oregon. Beycmd that we had not the slightest conject- ure of the condition of the country. We wont forth trusting to the future, and would doubtless have encountered more ditltcultics than we experienceil had not Dr. Whitman overtaken us l)efore we reached the terminus of our guiile's kiu)wl- edge. He was familiar with the whole route and was confident that wagt.ns could piu*s through the canyons and gorges of Snake River and over the Blue Mountains, which the mountaineers in the vicinity of Fort Hall declared to be a physical impossibility. Captain Grant, then in charge of the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Hall, endeavored to dissuade us fr<>!n proceeding further with our wagons, and showed us the wagons that the emigrants of the preceding year bad abandoned, as an evi- dence of the impracticability of our determination. Dr. Whitman was persistent in his assertions that wagons could proceed a.-« far as the Grand Dalles of the Colum- bia River, from which point he asserted they could be taken down by raffs or liatteaux to the Willanii'tte Valley, while our stock could l)e driven by an Indian trail over the Cascade Mountains, near Mount Hood. Happily Wliitnum's ad- vice prevailed, and a large number of the wagons with a portion of the B^(H!|t, did reach Walln Walla and The Dalles, from which points they were takcti l(t llili Willamette till following year. Hiul we followed Grant's advice and abanibuicd the cattle and ^^agons at Fort Hall, much siifli ring must have ensued, as a siilllcient number of horses to carry the women and ebildnn of the party could not have been olttained, liesides wagons and cattle were Intllspcnsable tx) nuM> expecting to live by farminu in a country destitute of such articles. At Fort Mall we fell in with sonu; C'ayuse anil Nez Perce Indians returning from the bullalo country, and as it was necessary for Dr. Whitman to preiicde us to Walla Walla, he recorameniled to us a guide In tlie person of an old Cayuse Indian called "Htlccus." He was a lallbful old fellow, perfectly familiar with all the trails and topography of the ouuntry from Fort Uali tu Tbu Dallee, and although not DR. WHITMAN AND THK EMIGRATION OF FOKTY-TIIIJEE. 275 speaking a word of EnKliHh, and no one in our party a word of Cuyuse, lie huc- ceeded by pantomime in talcing us over tlie rougliest wagon route I ever huw. This is a glowing tribute to the energy, determination and patri- otic zeal of the one man to whom is due the lionor of clearly demon- strating to the world the often-denied fact that tliere was a practicable route into Oregon for the white-topi)ed wagon of the emigrant. A score of other intelligent gentlemen have testified to the same effect, but it is obviously unnecessary to give more than a bare mention of the fact. The following list contains the names of every male member of that great train over the age of sixteen yeare. It was prepareil by J. W. Nesmith when the train was organized, and was preserved among his papers for a third of a century before given for publica- tion. All reached the Willamette Valley, except a few, the excep- tions being designated by marks and foot notes: — Applegate, Jesse BoHrdiiiun, * Appli'Knte, Cliarles BuldriilKo, Wm. A|)pli'Kate, Lindsay Ciwon, F. V,. Atlu'y, James Atlu'y, Wiiliam Atkinson, Jolin* Artiiur, Wm. Artluir, Roliert Artliur, Duvid liutler, Anion Hroolte, George IJunu'tt, I'etor H. Itini, Duvid CiiHon, James ('liapmiin, Wm. Cox, Jolin Cliamp, Jacob Cooper, li. C Cone, James Chiliiers, Moses Carey, Miles Cocliraii, Tliomas Ciymour, L. Dorin, Jacob Fowler, Henry Davis, 'Jhomas Fairly, {Stephen Delany, Daniel Fendall, Cliarlea Delany, Daniel, Jr. Gantt, John* Delany, William (Jray, Chiley B. Brown, Thomas \. C()|)enl)aver, John Blevins, Alexander Caton, J. II. Krooics, John I*. Mrown, Martin IJiown, Oris miicit, J. P. Iliine, Layton Hal<er, Andrew Halter, John G. lUagle, William Boyd, Levy Baker, William Biddle, Nleholast Beale, George Braidy, James Beadle, George Chappel, Alfred Cronin, Daniel C?o/.ine, Samuel Costal)le. Benedict (;hildH, Joseph* Clark, Hansom Canipliell, John G. Chapman, Cliase, James Dodd, Solomon Dement, Wm. C. Dougherty, W. P. Day, Williamt Duncan, James Doke, William Davis, J. H. Davis, Burrell Dai ley, tJeorge Dolierty, John Dawson, * Eaton, ("hurles Eaton, Natlian Etcliell, James Emevick, Solomon Eaker, John W. Edson, E. (i. Eyres, Miiesf East, Jtdin W. Garrison, Enoch Garrison, J. W. (Jurrison, W. J. (•ardiur, Samuel Gardner, Wm. (iilmore, Mat, (idodman, Hiehard Gilpin, Major (Jray, Haggard, B. Hide, H. H. Holnu's, Wm. Holmes, Uiley A. Hol)son, John Everman, Niniwon Hobson, Wm- Ford, Nineveli Hemi)ree, Andrew Fonl, Ephriam Hembree, J. J. Ford, Nimrod Hembree, James Ford, Jolin Hembree, A. J. Francis, Alexander:^ Hall, Samuel B. Frazier, Al)ner Houk, James Frazier, Wm Hugiies, Wm. P. Fowler, Wm. Hendrick, Aiiijah Fowler, Wm. J. Hays, James * Turned ofT at Fort Uall and went to Callfornlu. t Hied on the route. t Turned back »t the Platte. 276 HISTORY OF ISriLLAMETTB VALLEY. Hensley, Thomas J.* Holley, H. Hunt, Hfiiry HoldtTiK'SH, 8. M. Hiitohiiiu, Ihuuc FIiiHted, A. Hews, Joseph Hhuii, Jacob Howell, John Howell, Wni. Howell, Wesley Howell, (}. W. Howell, Tlionuu) E. Hill, Henry Hill, William Hill, Aliuoran Hewett Henry Hargrove, Wm. Hoyt, A. Holman, John Holnian, Daniel HarriKtw, B. James, Calvin Jaekson, John U. Jones, John Johnson, Overton Keyser, Thomas Keyser, J. M. Keyser, Plasant Kelley, Kelsey, Lovejoy, A. Ij. Lenox, PMwaril Lenox, E. Lay son, Aaron Ijooney, Jesso Lonjf, John E. Lee, H. A. (}. LiiKur, F4 ' .nel>arKer, Lew Linel)ar>^'. •, John [iaswell, "saac LouKhl>oroiiKh, J.t Little, Milton* Luther, Lauderdale, John MoOee, • Martin, Wm. J.» Martin, James Martin, Julius* MeClelland, • McClelland, F.* Mills, John B. Mills, Isiuie Mills, Wm. A. Mills, Owen Mcdarey, G. W. Mondon, (Jiiliert Matheny, Daniel Matheny, Adam Matheny, J. N. Matheny, Josiah Matheny, Henry ^^ast^re, A. J. MeHaley, John Myers, Jacob Manning, John Manning, James McCarver, M. M. McCorele, (Jeorge Mays, William Millican, Elijah Otie, M. B, O'Neil, Bennett OlinKer, A. Parker, Jesse Parker, William Pennington, J. B. Poe, R. H. Paynter, Bamuel Patterson, J. R. Pickett, Charles E. PriKg, Frederick Paine, Claybornt Reading, P. B.» Rodders, S. P. Rodgers, O. W. Russell, William Robertii, James Rice, O. W. Richardson, John Btevenaon, 8tory, James Swift, Hhively, John M. Bhirly, Hanmel Htoughton, Alex. Spencer, Chancey Htrait, Hiram Hummers, George Stringer, Cornelius Stringer, C. W.t Tharp, Llndsey Thompson, John Tralnor, D. Teller, Jeremiah Tarbox, Stephen Umnicker, John Vance, Samuel Vaughn, William Richardson, Danielf Vernon, George Ruby, Philip Ricord, John Reid, Jacob R(H', John Rol)erts, Solomon Roberts, Emseley Rossin, Joseph McDaniel, William Rivers, Thomas M'Kissic, D. Malono, Madison McClane, John B. Mau/ce, William Me I nf ire, John* Moore, Jacksont Matnoy, W. J. N»'Hmitli, J. W. New by, W. T. Newman, Noah Naylor, Thomas Osiiorn, Nell O'Brien, Hugh D. O'Brien, Humphrey Sewell, Henry Owen, Thomas A. Stout, Henry Owen, Thomas Sterling, George OtIe, E. W. Stout, Smith, Thomas H. Smith, Thomas Smith, Isaac W. Smith, Anderson Smith, Ahi Smith, Robert Smith, Eli Siieldon, William Stewart, P. G. Wllmont, James Wilson, Wm. H. Wair. J. W. Winkle, Archibald Williams, Edward Wheeler, H. Wagoner, John Williams, Beujumin Williams, David Wilson, Wm. Williams, John* Williams, James* Williams, S(|Uire* Williams, Isaac* Ward, T. B. White, James Watson, J no. (Betty) Sutton, Dr. Nathan'l Waters, James Stimmerman, C. Sharp, C. Summers, W. C. Winter, Wm. Waldo, Daniel Waldo, David Waldo, William Zachury, Alexander Zochary, John There were in Oregon at the time the train arrived, the follow- ing individuals, a few names, possibly, having been omitted from the list: — * Turncci oir al Fort Hall and went to (JaMfornla. t TMod oil the route. ! Turntid back al the Platto. AMEKI0AN9 OROAKIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 277 Ariustrong, FleaHant Ebbetts, Hquire KuriiH, Hugh UroM'H, Hrov/n, Wlllliim Brown, Kluek, J. M. Haldro, HuUh, Juines Rttlley, Dr. Brnipcrd, EdwurdM. John FoHtcr, Phlllj) Force, Jolin Force, Janiet) Fletcljer, Francis Guy, Oeorge Oule Joseph Girtman, Hathaway, Felix LeBreton, G, W. LarriHon, Jack Meek, Joseph L. Matthleu, F. X. McC'lure, John MOHH, H. W. Moore, Robert McFadden, Mc(Jarty, William McKay, Charles Crawford, Medoreni Hatch, Peter H Carter, David Campbell, Hunmel Campbell, Jack KuiMell, Osborn Robb, J. U. Shortess, Robert Hmith, Hidney Hmltli, Hmith, Aiulrew Kmith, Andrew, Jr. Bmith, Darling Hpence, .Sailor, Jack Turnham, Joel Craig, Wm. Cook, Amos Cook, Aaron Connor, Cannon, William Davy, Allen Doty, William Eakin, Richard McKay, Thomas nul)bard, Thomas J. McKay, William C. Turner, John Hewitt, Adam Morrison, Taylor, Hiram Horegon, Jeremiah Mack, J. W. Ilolman, Joseph Newl)anks, Hall, David Newell, Robert Hoxhurst, Weberly O'Neil, James A. Plutchinson, Pettygrove, F. W. Johnson, William Pomeroy, Dwight Pomeroy, Walter Perry, Rimmick, King, Kelsey, Lewis, Rculien Tll)betts, Calvin Trusk, Walker, C. M. Warner, Jack Wilson, A. E. Wlnslow, David Wilkins, Caleb W<K)d, Henry Wiliiums, B. In addition to the above were the follovvinc; ffentlenien con- nected with the various Protestant missions: Leslie, David Parrisl>, J. L. Perkins, H. K. W. Raymond, H. W. Spalding, W. H. Waller, A. F. Walker, E. Wliitman, Dr. M. White, Dr. Elijah Willaon, Wm.H. Abernethy, George Eells, C Babeock, Dr. J. L. Gray, W. PL Beers, Alanaon Hines, Ciustavus Brewer, Judson, L. H. Campbell, Hamilton Lee, Jason Clurlt, Harvey In addition to these were some fifty former employees of the Hudson's Bay Company, nearly all of whom had settled on French Prairie, and a number of priests connected with the Catholic mission, making a total male population at the close of the year 1843 of about four hundred and thirty, exclusive of the officers and actual servants of the Hudson's Bay Company. Following in the wake >f <he emigrants came the party of Lieu- tenant John C. Fremont, who l.'ad explored the Rocky Mountains the year before, and who had been this season dispatched by the Government upon an offiei.il ':our of exploration to the Pacific. After spending a few days at Vancouver, he pas.sed soutli, crossed the Cascades to Eastern Oregon, continued- south into Nevada, and in January, 1S44, crossed the snowy summit of the Sierra Nevadas to Sutter's Fort in Sacramento Valley. The title of "Pathfinder" was bestowed upon him, though he was guided nearly everywhere I'm ® IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i // A ^0 V C^x {/ ;.w^ 4l fc ^ 1.0 I.I li: ■;£ 1 2.5 1.8 11.25 IIIIII.4 IIIIII.6 V] (^ /2 A 'c^l >■ > s>* M ^iS '^ os: 'W '/ Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 A 6> iV % 278 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. by mountain men who were familiar with the country, and found the route to Oregon plainly marked by the emigrants' wagon wheels. On this subject Mr. Nesraith says: — In the Eastern States, I have often been asked how long it was after Fremont discovered Oregon that I emigrated there. It is true tliat in the year 1843, Fre- mont, then a Lieutenant in the Engineer Corps, did cross tlie plains, and brought his party to The Dalles, and visited Vancouver to procure supplies. I saw him on the plains, though he reached The Dalles in the rear of our emigration. His outfit contained all of the conveniences and luxuries that a Government appropriation could procure, while he " rouglied it " in a covered carriage, surrounded by servants paid from the public purse. He returned to the States and was afterward rewarded with a Presidential nomination as the " Pathfinder." Tlie path he found was made by the hardy frontiersmen who preceded him to the Pacifie, and who stood by their rifles here and held the country against hostile Indian.-, and British threats, without Government aid or recognition until 1849, when the first Government troops came to our relief. Yet Fremont, with many people, \ma the credit of '• finding " every- thing west of the Rocky Mountains, and I suppose his pretensions will be recog- nized by the future historian, while the deserving men who made the path, unaided by GJovernment, will be forgotten. "And such is history." Thus close the events of 1843, leaving Oregon with a Provisional Government and a population of intelligent, earnest, hardy Ameri- can pioneers sufficiently great to determine its future as a party of 4;he great Republic whose institutions they had thus planted in these remote regions. CHAPTER XVII. 1844 TO 1849. Indian Difficulty at Oregon City — First Military Company — Methodist Missions Abandoned — Increase of the Catholic Workers — Election of ISl^lf. — Abstract of Votes — Proceedings of the Legislative Com- mittee — Emigration of ISJ^J^ — List of Emigrants — Election of 181fi — George Abernethy Chosen First Governor of Oregon — Abstract of Votes — Oat?i of Office — Dr. White and the Memorial to Congress — Wheat a Legal Tender — Census of 181^5 — Emigration of ISJ^S — Meek Takes the Emigrants by a New Route and Loses Them in the Mountains — The Eventful Year of 184-6 — Mr. Blain.e's Account of the Settlement of the Oregon Question — Election of 181S — Emigra- tion of 18Jf.6 — The Applegate Trail — Flags of the Schooner ^^Shark " — Emigration of 18 Jp' — The Traveling Nursery — Elections of 1847 and 1848 — Emigration of 184-8. THERE was trouble in the Willamette Valley in 1844, which served to ntill more embitter the Indians against the Aiuericana. There was a sub-chief of the Molallas named "Cockstock," a man of independent nature and belligerent disposition. He had a few followers who partook someAvhat of his spirit, and they were gen- erally the prime movers in such sn)all hostile acts as the notives of the Willamette indulged in. He was rebellious of restraint, and not friendly to the encroachment of the white settlers. A relative of his having mistreated Mr. Perkins at The Dalles Mission, was sentenced by the Wasco tribe to be punished according to Dr. White's laws. The sub-chief was enraged at the whipping his kinsman had received, and set out to revenge the insult upon the I. 'I M S.M] 280 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Indian Agent. Reaching the Agent's AVillamette home during his absence, he proceeded to break every window-pane in the house. He was pursued, but not caught, and became an object of terror to the Doctor. All depredations committed in the country were charged to this chief, and it finally resulted in the offer by Dr. White of one hundred dollars' reward for the arrest of the formid- able Indian. Learning that he was being accused of acts commit- ted by othei-s, the chief visited Oregon City March 4, accompanied by four of his baud, with the avowed purpose of having a talk with the whites for the purpose of exculpating himself. He entered the town, staid for about an hour, and then crossed the river to visit an Indian village to procure an Indian interpreter. He then re-crossed the Willamette, when several men undertook to arrest liim, and a desperate fight ensued. Cockstock was killed, and his followers, after fighting valiantly until the odds became too great, made good their escape. On the other side George W. LeBreton was killed by Cockstock, and Mr. Rogers, who was working quietly near by, was wounded in the arm by a poisoned arrow, which caused his death. It has l)een asserted that the Molalla chief attacked the town, but it requires too much credulity to believe that five Indians would in broad daylight attack a town containing ten times their number. The whule affair is chargeable to the rash conduct of a few men who were too eager to gain the paltry reward offered by Dr. White, one of whom paid for his cupidity with his life. Fear- ing that trouble might follow, the Executive Committee of the Provisional Government issued a proclamation for the organization of a military company. A company was organized on the tenth of March by citizens who assembled at Champoeg. Nineteen names were enrolled ; T. D. Keizer being elected Captain, and J. L. Morrison and Mr. F. C. (or James) Cason, Lieutenants. Their services were not required. In May, 1844, Rev. George Gary arrived by sea to supersede Jason Lee in charge of the Methodist missions, the latter being already on his way East. The mission property was immediately sold and the missionary \n ork, which had amounted to little for several years, so far as accomplishments were concerned, was dis- continued, except at The Dalles. While the Methodists were thus withdrawing fi'om the field, the Catholics were largely increasing EIGHTEEN FORTT-FOUB TO EIGHTEEN FOBTT-NINE. 281 their force. Among other arrivals for that purpose were six sisters of the order of Notre Dame, who came to found a convent in the Willamette. Father P. J. DeSmet, who had previously founded a mission among the Flatheads, brought the sisters to Oregon by sea, being also accompanied by four priests and several laymen. Three other priests came overland from St. Louis. As Father Blanchet expresses it : " The schemes of the Protestant ministers had been fought and nearly annihilated, ospecially at Nesqually, Vancouver, Cascades, Clackamas and Willamette Falls, so that a visitor came in 1844 and disbanded the whole Methodist Mission, and sold its property." On the fourteenth of May, 1844, an election was held for officers of the Provisional Government, at which some two hundred votes were cast. P. G. Stewart, Osborn Russell and W. J. Bailey were chosen Executive Committee ; Dr. J. L. Babcock, Supreme Judge ; Dr. John E. Long, Clerk and Recorder ; Philip Foster, Treasurer ; Joseph L. Meek, Sheriff. The Territory had been partitioned into three Legislative Districts. Tualatin District included what is now Washington, Multnomah, Columbia, Clatsop, Tillamook, Yamhill and Polk Counties. Champoeg District has since been divided into Linn, Marion, Lane, Josephine, Coos, Curry, Benton, Douglas and Jackson Counties. In the Clackamas District were Clackamas County and the eastern part of Oregon, a portion of Montana, and all of Idaho and Washington Territories. On the following page are the tabulated returns of this first popular election held in Oregon : — 282 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEZ. ELECTION OF MAY 14, 1844. CJi.lfrTiTJDA.T'ESa. Executive Committee. P. G. Stewart* Osborn Russell* Aliinson Beers Jesse Applegate Peter H. Burnett ■ Hugh Bums David Hill- W. J. Bailey* William Dougherty A. Lawrenee Lovejoy Robert Newell A. J. Heinbree William Geiy^er Speneer Territorial Recorder or Clerk. Dr. John E. Long* J A F. O. Johnson . C. M. Walker G. Campbell E. Wilson X. Matthieu Suprein : Court Judge. James L. Babeock f * J. W. Nesmith Peter H. Burnett P. G. Stewart Osborn Russell O. Johnson Territorial Treasurer. Phil. Foster* Nineveh Ford P. H. Hatch A. E. Wilson--- John E. Long --- W. C. Remick Territorial Sheriff. Joseph L. Meek* B. Harragus William Holmes Legislative Committee, M. Gilmore* Peter H. Burnett* -- David Hill* M. M. McCarver* W. T. Perry -- T. D. Keiser* Daniel Waldo* Robert Newell* W. H. Gray — - W. J. Bailey F, C. Cason A. Lawrence LovejoyJ 3DISTIi,ICTS. CUCUH13. 41 40 21 11 10 6 6 3 3 2 2 I 33 24 8 1 39 16 2 4 TUiura. 40 4 4 2 I 1 64 2 1 15 22 10 CIIHPOIO. 84 182 18 23 10 7 7 26 27 32 24 20 8 67 14 65 88 79 67 75 75 20 11 18 TOTUS. 140 244 49 11 10 6 6 70 26 2 12 1 7 7 73 24 8 1 2 65 88 39 16 2 6 2 48 10 4 2 1 1 143 2 1 27 32 24 20 8 67 75 75 20 11 18 * Elected. t Reslgntd November 11, 1814. I Elected from Clackamas District. EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 283 The Legislative Committee elected met at Willamette Falls, in the house of Fel-i:; Hathaway, June 18, 1844, and chose M. M. McCarver Speaker. A nine days' session followed, when they ad- journed until December of the same year. On the sixteenth of December the Legislative Committee met again, this time at the house of J. E. Long, in Oregon City, when a message was submitted to them from the Executive Committee, in which an amendment of the organic law was recommended. A seven days' session folloAved, during which an act was passed calling for a committee to fi'ame a constitution. Several acts were framed requiring submission to a popular vote to render them valid, among which was a change from the triumvirate to gubernatorial executive, and from a Legislative Committee to a Legislature, which was adopted by the people. The emigration of 1844 was nearly as great as that of the pre- vious year, adding some eight hundred to the American population, two hundred and thirty-four of them able-bodied men. " They were," says Hon. John Minto, "self-reliant, determined men; devoted, loyal, bravely-enduring women. They started from different points under different leaders, and never united, but, on the contrary, divided up still more as they traveled, a single man sometimes separating himself from an entire company, under the settled con- viction that they were all too contrary for him to keep company with any longer." The main companies had three starting points — one from Independence, one from near the mouth of the Platte, and one from Capler's Landing, twelve miles above St. Joseph. The last was commanded by Cornelius Gilliam, the first by Nathan- iel Ford, and the other by Major Thorp. Tlie following nearly correct list was made in later years by Joseph Watt, Willard H. Rees, William M. Case and J. Henry Brown, and read by John Minto in his address before the Pioneer Association in 1877: — ^#11 ■II 'I'll ■M Alderman, BoT,:uan, Wm., Jr. Bayard, Nathan Crisman, Gabriel . 'i Bird, Bowman, Ira Brown, Adam Crisman, Wm. Buzzard, Nathan Bunton, Elijah Bonnin, Peter Chamberlain, Aaron ' ■; ■! t' I'' Burch, Charles Bunton, Joseph Crawford, David Conner, Patrick ■1 Boyd, Robert Bunton, Wm. Crawford, Lewis Crockett, Samuel B- Black, William Bulch, Charles Clark, Daniel Case, Wm. M. ■:l Blakely, Bennett, Capt. C. Clark, Dennis Clemens, Wm. Bush, Gteorge W. Bordran, Francis Clemens, Dougherty, ■ ;";", Bogga, Thomas Bartrough, Joseph Cave, James Doty, i BowmaD, Wm., Sr Bray, Wm. Davenport, James 284 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. Dagon, Dr. Durbin, Daniel Dupuis, Edward Emery, C. Edes, Moses Everman, C. Eades, John Eades, Abr. Eades, Henry Eades, Clark Eades, Solomon Evans, David Evans, N. D. Eddy, Robert Elliek, Johin Fleming, John Ford, Nathaniel Ford, Mark Fruit, James Fruit, "Doc." Fuller, Jenny Gilbert, 1. N. Goff, David Gott", Samuel Goff, Marion Grant, David Gilliam, Mitchell Gilliam, Cornelius Gilliam, Smith Gilliam, William Gilliam, Porter Gage, William Gage, Jesse Goodwin, W. H. Gillespie, Gerrish, James Gerrish, John Gillahan, Martin Gillahan, William Gilmore, Charles Ilinman, Alanson Hedges, A. F. Hutton, Jacob Hill, Fleming Hawley, J. C. Hoover, Jacob Holt, T. Harper, James Holman, Joseph Howard, John Hunt, James Humphrey, Norris Hummer, Jacob Higgins, Herman Higgins Williams Hibler, George Inyard, John Inyard, Abr. Inyard, Peter Johnson, William Johnson, James Johnson, David Johnson, Daniel Johnson, James Jackson, John Jenkins, David Jenkins, William Jenkins, Henry Kindred, David Kindred, Bart Kindred, John Kinney, Daniel Lee, Barton Lousenaute, John Lews, Charles Morgan, vVilliam McGrude', Theo. McGrudei . Ed. Minto, John McDaniel, Joshua McDaniel. Elisha McDaniel, Mrs. McMahan, Martin, Nehemlah McSwain, Samuel McAllister, James Morrison, R. W. Moore, Michael Neal, Calvin Neal, Robert Neal, Alex. Neal, Peter Nelson, George • Nelson, Cyrus Nichols, John Nicliols, Frank Nichols, Benjamin Owless, Ruel Owens, Henry Owens, James Owens, John Owens, John Perkins, Joel, Sr. Perkins, Joel, Jr. Perkins, John Parker, David Priest, Parrot, Joseph Pack wood, S. Packwood, T. Payne, R. K. Prather, William Prather, Theodore Pettie, Eaben Pettie, Amab Rowland, J. Smith, William Smith, Noyes Smith, Texas SaflFlron, Henry Sis, Big Stewart, James Saunders, William Shaw, Joshua Shaw,A.C.R.(Sheep) Shaw, Wash. Shaw, Thomas Shaw. B. F. Shaw, Capt. Wm. Stephens, James Sager, , died on the way at Green River. Saxcon, Charles Snelling, Vincent Snelling, Benjamin Snooks, Teller, Jerry Thornton, Sebrin Thomas, O. S. Thorp, John Thorp, Alvin Thorp, Theodore Thorp, Mortimer Robin8on,E.(Moun- Thorp, Milton tain.) Trues, Cooper Y. Robinson.T.G. (Fat- Tucker, Benjamin ty.) Robinson, Ben Rees, Willard H. Rice, Parton Rice, Mac Rice, (Old Man) Ramsey, Ramsdell, Marshall, James, the Sears, Franklin discoverer of gold Shelton, Jackson at Sutter's Mill. Moreland, Lafe Mulky, Westley Mulkey, Luke Murray, . Mudgett, Neal, George Neal, Attey Sebring, William Scott, John Scott, Levi Simmons, M. T. Springer, Smith, J. S. Smith, Charles Smith, Peter Tucker, Long Vance, Tnos., died on the Platte. Waunch, George Williams, Poe Williams, — — Wright, Harrison Woodcock, Richard Welsh, James Walker, James, Sr. Walker, Jameu, Jr. Walker, Robert Williamson, Henry Watt, Joseph Warm bough, Werner, Thomas The following turned off and went to California : — Calvin, Foster, Joseph Greenwood, G. Hitchcock, — and Flomboy, John Greenwood, John Greenwood, Britain son. EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 285 Jackson, Montgomery, Allen Schallenberger, M. Townsend, Dr. Martin, Patrick Montgomery, James Stephens, Captain Scott and Bobbin, Martin, Dennis Murphy,Martin,and Sullivan, John, and colored men with Martin, William five sons. brother. Col. Ford. Miller, James Mrs. Wm. M. Case furnishes the following list of ladies who came in Major Thorp's company : — Case, Mrs. Wm. M. Higgins, Mrs. Her- Snelling, Mrs. Vin- Horace Holden and Eliza, a mulatto girl man cent May, his wife, ar- Hammer, Mrs. Jac'b Johnson, Mrs. D. Tucker, Mrs. Benj. rived in April of Hannah, Aunt, ane- Shaw, Mrs. Joshua Thorp,Mi88 Amanda this year from the gress Snelling, Miss Eliza Sandwich Islands. Of this emigration Michael T. Simmons and a few others located on Puget Sound, making the first American settlement north of the Columbia. GENERAL ELECTION, JUNE 3, 1845. The first annual election was held on the third of June, 1845. tabular statement will prove interesting and of historical value :— The following OJLXTIDZIDJ^T^B. Oovemor. George Abernethy* Osborn Russell William J. Bailey A. Lawrence Lovejoy Total vote cast Secretary, John E. Long 1* --- Noyes Smith Treasurer. Phil. Foster Francis Ermatinger 2* Jitdgc. J. W. Nesmith 3* District-Attorney. Marcus Ford 4* AsBeaaor, S. W. Moss*-— - Jacob Reed Sheriff.} Joseph L. Meek 5* A. J. Hembree - I3ISTIJ,iaTS. a M o 46 22 2 44 114 65 48 62 61 111 100 53 52 59 42 •a s 58 54 6 5 123 70 47 49 50 115 78 39 48 77 45 be a o 51 47 60 9 167 117 53 47 118 166 168 119 48 111 54 on 22 23 6 12 1 12 17 10 5 15 .4 51 7 7 12 77 25 35 38 2U 64 53 5 56 15 61 3 o 228 130 75 71 504 283 195 197 251 473 409 216 204 267 215 * Officers elected. 1. Deceased. Frederick PrtKg appointed to fill vacancy June 26, 1846. 2. KeslKned. John H. Couch appointed to vacancy March 4, 184^. 8. Succeeded by Alonzo A. Skinner. . . ^ „ .. .„ 4. ReslKned February 4, 1846, W. G. T' Vault appointed to vacancy; he reaigned March 10, 1816, and was succeeded by A. L. Lov^oy. 5. B«*lgned,uid waaeuooeededbyH. M. Kolgbtoo. ■'ivi m '^% 286 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. GENERAL ELECTION, JUNE 3, 18o5- Continued. OAITDIU^TEIS. Bcpresentativeu- H. A. J. Lee* - - Hirum Straifilit* \V. H. Gniv* C. E. Pickett N. Ford — M. M. MeCarvei* U. Lenox -- D. Hill* (J. Kiitton V. VV. Diiwson Jose|>h (>ale J. W. Smith* C. M. Wailier J. M. Garrison* M. G. Foiry* Joseph (Jervais Barton Lee* — — W. H. Willson Robert Newell* A. Chamberlain - F. X. Matbieu John MoClure* George Birnnions Jesse Applegate* A. Hendrick* S. Wniith J. Richardson --- -. R. Clark Convention (to frame constitution) No Convention (to frame constitution)- I3IST3a,ICTS. 93 OS S3 99 82 54 50 23 a 3 51 39 63 2S 22 43 51 47 te a a Si 03 O 128 131 68 90 4f) 79 74 14 11 10 93 38 34 31 29 10 3 o 99 82 54 50 23 51 39 53 28 22 43 51 47 128 131 68 90 49 79 74 14 11 10 38 34 31 29 10 190 283 * Officers elected. Note— Tlieoplillus McOruder was appointed Recorder December 8, 1846. Wm. Q. T'Vault was appointed Postmaster-General of Oregon in December, 1816. Q. W. Bell was ap- pointed Auditor. Two new districts — Yamhill and Clatsop — had been formed out of Tualatin, making five in all. In most of these were held nomi- nating conventions, where, also, were chosen delegates to a general convention at Champoeg. A. L. Lovejoy was the successful aspi- rant for the gubernatorial nomination, defeating Dr. William J. Bailey, Osborn Russell and George Abernethy. The convention was not satisfactory, and all these gentlemen appeared before the people as candidates. By a combination of the friends of Russell and Abernethy, the latter, who was then in the Sandwich Islands, was elected. EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIOHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 287 The Legislature chosen assembled at Oregon City, June 24th, elected M. M. McCarver Speaker, and remained in session two weeks. The following oath of office was proposed }>y Jesse Apple- gate, in view of the character of the people and their divided alle- giance, and was administered to the members: — Oath of Office— I do solemnly sweiir that I will support the orRnnic laws of the Provisional Government of Oregon, so fur as tlie suid organic laws are consist- ent with my duties aa a citizen of the United States, or a subject of Great liritain, and faithfully demean myself in office. So help me God. The most important business transacted was the di-afting of a memorial to Congress, asking for a territorial government, and the framing of a new organic law. On the twenty-eighth of June the memorial was signed by Russell and Stewart, of the Executive Com- mittee (Abernethy not having yet returned), eTudge Ncsmith, and members of the Legislature. Dr. Elijah White was delegated all the to convey the memorial to Washington. The Legislature then ad- journed to await the result of the constitutional election, ^vhich was held on the twenty-fifth of July. This resulted in two hundred and fifty-five votes for the new law and only fifty-two for the old. The Legislature again assembled, according to the provisions of the new law, on the fifth of August. It was then that the memorial was placed in the hands of Dr. White for transmission to Congress. After he had departed they became dissatisfied with their messeng<>r, deeming that he intended using it for his personal advancement at Washington, and they sent a courier to overtake him and demand its return. The Doctor received the demand coolly and refused to comply. His answer, which showed how correct was their opinion that he proposed making the memorial serve his personal ends, was as follows : — August 17, 1845. To THE Hon., Etc.: Oentleynen — Being on my way, and having but a moment to reflect, I have been at much of a loss which of your two resolutions most to respect, or which to obey; but at length have become satisfied that the first was taken most soberly, and as it answers ray purpose best, I pledge myself to adhere strictly to that. Sincerely wishing you good luck in legislating, I am, dear sii-s, very respectfully yours, E. WHITE. This letter, with a statement of the circumstances surrounding it, was sent by another messenger to Washington, and arrived just in time to foil the scheming Doctor's chances for an important .:i i( : g 288 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. appointment which he was about to receive. Among other acts the Legislature passed a law making wheat a legal tender at market price, owing to the scarcity of a circulating medium. The body adjourned sine die on the twentieth of August. On the second of December, the day H*it for the assembling of the Legislature by the new law, and no election having been held, the same gentlemen again assembled, and organized by electing Robert Newell Speaker. A session of seventeen days was then held, during which P' Ik and Lewis counties were created, the latter embracing all of Washing- ton Territory west of the Cascades. This had been designated " Vancouver District " the year before, but had not sent a repre- sentative to the Legislature. Sheriff Meek, in pursuance of an act of the Legislature, took a census of the population. This did not include those living "orth of the Columbia or east of the mount- ains, consequently, except the ninety-one reported for Clatsop, represents only the population of the Willamette Valley. The table, which does not include the immigration of 1845, is as follows: — CENSUS RETURNS OF OREGON IN 1846. £ o % S 3M 6 Under 12 years ofage. 12 and under 18 years. 18 and under 46 years. 45 and over. Whole Number i COUNTIES. i 1 i i I i 1 i i i 53 114 8 90 67 i -3 15 42 4 26 23 "a 1 i "3 i a a O H Clackamas . 18 24 17 14 16 57 85 29 127 infl 69 M 12 45 1 28 16 37 3 94 136 171 42 142 124 1 6 9 234 129 361 Chamnoetr 142 136 14 18 115 109 79 65 400 305 705 ClatHOD -- 611 30 91 Tualatin 309 229 538 Yamhill 31 j 24 257 158 415 Total — 89 405 419 .<)82 117 lO.'i 61ft ?,9:> 110 41 1259 f«1 2110 The immigration of 1845 consisted of some three thousand souls, about one-third of whom, under William B. Ide, of Bear Flag notoriety, and guided by Greenwood, the trapper, turned off at Fort Hall and went to California. There has never been prepared a register of the half dozen trains into which it was divided, and it is impossible to give a list of the pioneers of 1845. A few might be mentioned — names familiar in Oregon annals — such as Col. W. G. T'Vault, J. C. Avery, John Waymire, Frederick Waymire, John Flemiuing, Captain English, James B. Kiggs, Bufus A. Biggs, EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 289 a o 9 P. O 361 7()5 91 538 415 Stephen Staats, John Durbin, William J. Horreii, (T(^nCTal Joel Palmer, Simeon Smith, David Carson, John M. Forrest, Dr. Ralph Wilcox, Solomon Fetherous, James Allen. They brought the cheering intelligence that James K. Polk had been elected Presi- dent of the United States on the party cry of " Fifty-four-forty, or fight," and had been duly inaugurated, and that the prospects for an immediate favorable settlement of the mooted Oregon Question were favorable. Tlu^ir nund)ers, too, a(hled so materially to the strength of the American element that they then outnumbered the representatives of Great Britain ten to one. When the emigrants reached F'^"t Boise, Stephen H. Meek, the same man who had served as guido la 1842, offered to show a shorter and easier route across the Blue and Cascade mountains — one to the south of thti old trail. A gioat many of them followed him, while others refused to depart from the regular route. Meek had never passed through the countvy he was now entering, but had heard of it from others when lie had, as a fi'ee American trapper, been for a time in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. The route had never been used, but it was known that the country through what is now Southeastern Oregon, was less mount- ainous than that further north, and Meek naturally expected to find a passable route and a good pass through the Cascades. In this he failed, and as soon as the emigrants became satisfied that he was traveling by guess, they became so indignant that he only saved his neck by using his feet. They then undertook to pass down John Day River, and finally reached the Columbia after almost superhuman exertion. Had they trusted to Meek it is possible, and even probable, that he would, by taking them further south, have found them a comparatively easy route. This episode is thus described by Hon. Stephen Staats, one of the immigrants of that year: — If When nearing Fort Boise, much discussion was had relative to the route to be followed after leaving that point. Stephen Meek had met the emigrants and pro- posed to pilot them over a new route by which to bring them into the valley, assert- ing that it was much shorter and better than the route to The Dalles. I recollect one old gentleman, John M. Forrest by name, who, when the subject was warmly discussed, declared he would follow the old route, even if he had to travel alone. Says he: "When I left the States, after rcad'ng the letters of Burnett and others fi>jm Oregon, I determined I would not be led ofT on any new route claimed to have been discovered by any adventurer, but would travel where others had traveled. 290 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. and thus be sure of !irr"ving at the desired point to which we are all looking." But now the time had come for action. One morning, after a night spent in si)irited discussion, Mr. Forrest broke camp and started on the old trail; others, with much warmth, attempted to restrain him, but he persisted, and about twenty-five other wagons followed his; others, under the leadership of Meek, struck off on the route declared by him the best and shortest ; but well would it have been for all those so doing, had they persevered in following the old route, for experience proved to them that had they so done, much suffering, in almost every conceivable fornj, would have been avoided, and that they would have arrived at their destination much sooner and their condition more hopeful as to future resources to provide for their wants during the approaching winter. It was but a few days after Meek left Fort Boise, that he became hopelessly lost, and had it not been for the good judgment and determined energy of some of the emigrants, and their hiring an Indian to pilot them through to The Dalles, many would have perished and suffered a most torturing death, that now survive and to-day can recount the many sad incidents and afflictive events of their wearisome travel to that point. It has been positively asserted that while Meek was thus lost, he suffered to such an extent for tlie want of water to satisfy his thirst, that he opened a vein in the neck of his mule, and thus, in all probability, secured his own life by quaffing the life blood of that most noble and docile quadruped. But be that as it may, whether true or not, there were moments when the sufferings of husband, wife and children, became so unbearable, and so intensely torturing to the mental vision of those having others depending upon them for support and pro. tection, that had he who counseled them to take an unknown and trackless route when almost out of provisions, and energies already nearly exhausted, made his appearance among them, he might have been made a sacrifice to appease the angry passions with which they were infiamed. The anti-Hudson's Bay Company fanatics absurdly charge that Meek was employed by the company to lead this train of emigrants to their destruction in the mountains, the only evidence being the fact that Meek — as did also a number of Americans who were known as " free trappers," men who were somewhat independent of the fur traders — had engaged himself for two or three seasons to the company. The charge is too ridiculous to be considered. The year 184() was a momentous one for the United States. It saw the settling of the Oregon Question, which confirmed to the United States all that portion of Montana lying west of the Rocky Mountains, Idaho, Oregon and Washington. It saw, also, the beginning of the Mexican War, which gave us Texas, and the wresting of California from Mexican rule by Lieutenant Fremont and Commodores Sloat and Stockton. It was an exciting period, and the country was held in suspense for months over the contro- versy with England, during which war with that great power seemed almost unavoidable. The incidents attending the settlement of this great question are clearly and graphically described by EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 291 James G. Blaine in his " Twenty Years of Congress," in which he displays a profundity of knowledge of the political intricacies of that period which carries the weight of authority with his language. To improve upon it would be impossible, and to epitomize it ^vould destroy its force and perspicuity ; nothing but a complete and liberal quotation will suffice. Mr. Blaine says: — The convention which nominated Mr. Polli took bold ground for the immediate re-annexation of Texas and re-occupation of Oregon. This peculiar form of ex- pression was used to indicate that Texas had already belonged to us under the Louisiana purchase, and that Oregon had Ijeen wholly ours prior to the treaty of joint occupancy with Great Britain. It further declared, that our title to the whole of Oregon, up to 54° 40' north latitude, was " clear and indisiaitable"; thus carry- ing our claim to the borders of the Russian possessions, and utterly denying and defying the pretension of Great Britain to the ownership of any territory bordering on the Pacific. ♦ » * 4 * » The election of Mr. Polk was an unquestionable verdict from the people in favor of the annexation of Texas. Mr. Clay and Mr. Van Buren had been able to defeat the treaty negotiated by Mr. Calhoun ; but the popular vote overruled them, and pronounced in favor of the Democratic position after full and fair hearing. Mr. Tyler was anxious that the scheme so energetically initiated by him should be fully accomplished during his term. The short method of joint resolution was therefore devised by the ever fertile brain of Mr. Calhoun, and its passage through Congress intrusted to the skillful management of Robert J. Walker, then a senator from Mississippi, and already indicated for the portfolio of the Treasury in the new administration. Mr. Polk was in consultation with Mr. Tyler during the closing weeks of the latter's administration, and the annexation by joint resolution had his full concurrence. It was passed in season to receive the approval of President Tyler on the first day of March, three days before the eventful administration of Mr. Polk was installed in power. Its terms were promptly accepted by Texas, and at the next session of Congress, beginning December, 184o, the constitution of the new State was approved. Historic interest attached to the appearance of Sam Houston and Thomas J. Rusk as the first senators from the great State which they had torn from Alexico and added to the Union. The policy of maintaining an equality of slave States with free States was to be l)uraued, as it had already been from the foundation of the government, with un- ccaKing vigilance and untiring energy. The balancing of forces between new States addi'd to the Union had heen so skillfully arranged, that for a long period two States w( re admitted at nearly the same time— one from the South, and one from the Noith. Thus Kentucky and Vernjont, Tennessee and Ohio, Mississippi and Indiana, Alabama and Illinois, Missouri and Maine, Arkansas and Michigan, Flicida and Iowa, came into the Union in pairs, not indeed at precisely the same nioineut in every case, but always with reference each to the other in the order named. On the admission of Florida and Iowa, Colonel Benton remarked that "it iseemed strange that two territories so difl'erent in a^, ^ so distant from each other, 80 antagonistic in natural features and political institutione, should ripen into States at the same time, and come into the Union by a single Act; but these very antagonisms — that is, the antagonistic provisions on the subject of slavery — made the conjunction, and gave to the two young States an iuseparable admission." i^^l 292 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. During the entire period from the formation of the Federal Government to the inauguration of Mr. Polli, the only variation from this twin birth of States— the one free, the other slave— was In the ease of Louisiana, which was admitted in 1812, with no corresponding State from the North. Of the original Thirteen States, seven had become free, and six maintained slavery. Of the fifteen that were added to the Union, prior to the annexation of Texas, eight were slave, and seven were free; so that when Mr. Polk tot)lt the oath of office, the Union consisted of twenty- eight States, equally divided between slav holding and free. So nice an adjust- ment had certainly required consttint watchfulness and the closest calculation of political forces. It was in pursuit of this adjustment that theadmission of Louisiana was secured, as an evident compensation for the loss which had accrued to the slave-holding interests in the unequal though voluntary partition of the Old Thir- teen between North and South. Looking into the future, the Southern men took alarm lest the equality of their section should be lost in the Senate, and their long control of the Federal Govern- ment ended. Even with Texas added to the Union, this equality was barely main- tained, for Wisconsin was already seeking admission ; and the clause in the articles of annexation providing that four new States might be carved out of the territory of Texas whenever she asked it, gave no promise of speedy help to the South. Its operation would, in any event, be distant, and subject to contingencies which could not be accurately measured. There was not another foot of territory south of 36° 30', save that which was devoted to the Indians by solemn compact, from which another slave State could be formed. North of 36^ 30' the Missouri Compromise had dedi- cated the entire country to freedom. In extent it was, to the Southern view, alarm- ingly great, including at least a million square miles of territory. Except along its river boundaries it was little known. Its value was underrated, and a large portion was designated upon our maps as the Great American Desert. At the time Texas was annexed, and for ses'eral years afterwards, not a single foot of that vast area was organized under any tbriu of civil government. Had the Southern statesmen foreseen the immense wealth, jropulation, and value of this imperial domain in the five great States and four territories into which it is to-day divided, they would have abandoned the struggle for equality. But the most that was hoped, even in the North, withia any near period, was one State north of Iowa, one west of Mis- souri, and one from the Oregon country. The remainder, in the popular judgment, was divided among mountain gorges, the arid plains of the middle, and the unin- viting region in the north, which the French voj/ageura had classed under the com- prehensive and significant title of mauvaises terrea. "With only three States anticipated from the great area in the north-west, it was the evident expectation of the Southern men who then had control of the government, that, if war with Mexico should ensue, the result would inevitably be the acquisition of sufficient territory to form slave States south of the line of the Missouri Compromise as rap- idly as free States coujd be formed north of it; and that in this way the ancient equality between North and South could be maintained. The Oregon Question, which now became associated, if not complicated, with tho Texas Question, originated many years before. By our treaty with Spain in 18:", the southern boundary of our possessions on the Pacific had been accurately defined. Our northern boundary was still unadjusted, and had been matter of dis- pute with Great Britain ever since we acquired the country. By the treaty of Octo- ber 20, 1818, the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude was established as the bound- ary between the United States and British America, from the Lake of the Woods to the Stony Mountains, cs the Rocky Mountains were then termed. In the same EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUB TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 293 treaty it was agreed that any country claimed by either the United States or Great Britain westward of the Stony Mountains should, with its harbors, liays, and rivers, be open for the term of ten years to the vessels, citizens, and subjects of either power. This agreement was entered into solely for the purpose of preventing disputes pending final settlement, and was not to be construed to the prejudice of eitlier party. This was the beginning of the joint occupancy of the Ore(jon country, England having with prompt and ciiaracteristic enterprise forced her way across the continent after she had acquired Canada in 1763. Stimulated by certain alleged discoveries of lier navigators on the north-west coast, Great Britain urged and main- tained her title to a frontage on the Pacific, and made a bold claim to sovereignty as far south as the mouth of the Columbia River, nearly, indeed, to tlie northern border of California. Nothing had been done towards an adjustment during the tjn years of joint occupancy, and wlien the term was about to expire, the arrangement was renewed by special convention in 1827, for an indefinite period — each power reserving the right to terminate the convention by giving twelve-months' notice to the other. The President, John Quincy Adams, made the briefest possible reference to the subject in his message to Congress, December, 1827 ; speaking of it as a temporary compromise of the respective rights and claims of Great Britain and the United States to territory westward of the Rocky Mountains, For many years thereafter, the subject, though languidly pursued i.i our diplomatic correspondence, was not alluded to in a President's message, or discussed in Congress. The contracting parties rested content with the power to join issue and try titles at l"v time by simply giving the required notice. Tlie subject was also overshadowed by more urgent disputes between Great Britain and the United States, especially that relat- ing to the North-eastern boundary, and that touching the suppression of tlie African slave-trade. The latter involved the old question of the right of search. The two governments Ci:me to an agreement on these diflferenees in 1842 by the negotiation of the convention known as the Ashburton Treaty. In transmitting the treaty to Congress, President Tyler made, for the first time since the agreement for a joint occupancy was renewed in 18i7, a specific reference to the Oregon Question. He informed Congress, that the territory of the United States commonly called the Oregon country was beginning to attract the attention of our fellow-citizens, and that "the tide of our population, having reclaimed from the wilderness the more contiguous regions, was preparing to flow over those vast districts which stretch from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean ;" that Great Britain "laid claim to a portion of the country and that the question could not be well included in the recent treaty without postponing other more pressing matters." He significantly added, that though the difflculty might not for several years involve the peace of the two countries, yet he should urge upon Great Britain the importance of its early settlement. As this paragraph was undoubtedly suggested and probably written by Mr. Webster, it attracted wide attention on l)oth sides of the Atlantic ; and from that moment, in varying degrees of interest and urgency, the Oregon Question became an active political issue. Before the next annual meeting of Congress, Mr. Upshur had succeeded Mr. Webster in the State Department ; and the message of the Presi- dent tor'- ''*!" aore advanced ground respecting Oregon. For political reasons, there ^^ an obvious desire to keep the action of the government on this issue well abreast of Its aggressive movements in the matter of acquiring Texas. Emboldened by Mr. Webster's position of the preceding year, Mr. Upshur, with younger blood, and with moie reason for a demonstrative course, was evidently disposed to force the discussion of the question with British Government. Under his Infiuence ^ id advice, President Tyler declared, in bis message of December, 1843, that "after the 294 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. most rigid, and, as far as practicable, unbiased, examination of the subject, the United States have always contended that their rights appertain to the entire region of country lying on the Pacific, and embraced between latitude 42' and 54° 40'." Mr. Edward Everett, at tlnit time our minister in London, was Instructed to present these views to the British Government. Before the President could send another annual message to Congress, Mr. Cal- houn had been for several months at the head of the State Department, engaged in promoting, with singular skill and ability, his scheme for the annexation of Texas. Witli his quiclt percei)tion, he discerned that if the policy apparently indicated by Mr. Webster and aggressively proclaimed by Mr. Upshur, on the Oregon Questiom should be followed, and that issue sharply pressed upon Great Britain, complications of a most embarrassing nature might arise, involving in their sweep the plans, already well matured, for acquiring Texas. In order to avert all danger of that kind, Mr. Calhoun opened a negotiation with the British minister in Wasliington, conducting it himself, for the settlement of the Oregon Question ; and at the very moment when the Democratic National Convention which nominated Mr. Polk was declaring our title to the whole of Oregon as far as 54° 40' to be "clear and un- questionable," the Democratic Secretary of State was proposing to Her Majesty's representative to settle the entire controversy by the adoption of the forty-ninth parallel as the toundary ! The negotiation was very nearly completed, and was suspended only by some dispute in regard to the right of navigating the Columbia River. It is not improb- able that Mr. Calhoun, after disclosing to the British Government his willingness to accept the forty-ninth jmrallel as our northern boundary, was anxious to have the negotiation temporaril. postponed. If the treaty liad been concluded at that time, It would have seriously interfered with the success of Mr. Polk's candidacy by destroying the prestige of the " Fifty-four forties," as Colonel Benton termed them. In Mr. Polk's election, Mr. Calhoun was deeply and indeed doubly interested: first, because of his earnest desire to defeat Mr. Clay, with whom he was at swords' points on all public Issues; and again, because having assumed the responsibility of defeating the nomination of Mr. Van Buren, he was naturally desirous that his judgment should be vindicated by the election of the candidate whom his Southern friends had put forward. Urgently solicitous for the annexation of Texas, those friends were IndlfTerent to the fate of the Oregon Question, thougli willing that It should be made a leading Issue In the North, where It was presented with popular effect. The patriotic sjiirit of the country was appealed to, and to a considerable extent aroused and inflamed by the ardent and energetic declaration of our title to the whole of Oregon. " Fifty-four forty or fight " l)ecame a Democratic watchword ; and the Whigs '.«• ho attempted to argue agajnst the extravagance or inexpediency of the claim continually lost ground, and were branded as cowards who were awed Into silence by the fear of British power. All the prejudice against the British Government which had descended from the Revolution and from the war of 1812 was succi-ssfully evol.ed by the Democratic party, and they gained immeasurably by keeping a measur' before the people which many of their leaders knew would be abandoned when the pressure of actual negotiation should be felt by our gov- ernment. Mr. Polk, however, in his Inaugural address, carefully re-alflrmed the position respecting Oregon which his party had taken In the national canvass, and quoted part of the phrase usetl In the platform put forth by the convention which nomi- nated him. Tlie issue had been made so broadly, that it must be squarely met, and finally adjusted. The Democrats In their eagerness had left no road for honorable retreat, and bad cut themselves off from the resources and convenient postpone- ments of diplomacy. Dangerous as it was to the new admiuistration to coulront EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 295 by the issue, it would have been still more dangerous to attempt to avoid it. Vbe decisive step, in the policy to which the administration was committed, was to give formal notice to Great Britain that the joint occupation of the Oregon country under the treaty of 1S27 must cease. A certain degree of moral strength was unex- pectedly imparted to the Democratic position by the fact that the venerable John Quincy Adams was decidedly in favor of the notice, and ably supported, in a unique and powerful speech in tlie House of Representatives, our title to the country up to 54° 40'. The ttrst convention for joint occupancy had been negotiat'id while Mr. Adams was Secretary of State, and the second while he was President ; so that, in addition to the weight of authority with whicli he always spolie, his words seemed entitled to special confidence on a question with which he was necessarily so famil- iar. His great influence brought many Whigs to the support of the resolution ; and on the 9th of February, 1S46, the House, by the large vote of 163 to 54, declared in favor of giving the treaty notice to Great Britain. The country at once became alarmed by the growing rumors that the resolution of the House was a direct challenge to Great Britain for a trial of strength as to the superior title to the Oregon country, and it was soon apparent tliat the Senate would proceed with more circumspection and conservatism. Events were rapidly tending towards hostilities with Mexico, and the aggrandizement of territory likely to result from a war with that country was not viewed with a friendly eye, either by Great Britain or France. Indeed, the annexation of Texas, which had heen accomplished the preceding year, was known to be distasteful to those governments. They de- sired that Texas might remain an independent republic, under more liberal trade relations tlian could be secured from the United States with its steady policy of fostering and advancing its own manufacturing interests. The directors of the administration saw therefore more and more clearly that, if a war with Mexico were impending, it would be sheer madness to open a quarrel with Great Britain, and force her into an alliance against us. Mr. Adams and those who voted with him did not believe that the notice to the British Government would provoke a war, but that firmness on our part, in the negotiation whicli should ensue, would induce England to yield her pretensions to any part of Oregon ; to which Mr. Adams maintained, with elaboration of argument and demonstration, she had no shadow of right. Mr. Adams was opposed to war with Mexico, and therefore did not draw his conclusions from the premises laid down by those who were charged with the policy of the administration. They naturally argued that a war with Great Britain might end in our losing the whole of Oregon, without acquiring any territory on our south-western border. The bare possibility of such a result would defeat the policy which they were seeking to uphold, and would at the same time destroy their party. In short, it became apparent that what might be termed the Texas policy of the administration, and what might be termed its Oregon policy, could not both be carried out. It required no prophet to foresee which would be maintained and whicli would beabaniloned. "Fifty-four forty or fight," had been a good cry for the political campaign; but, when the fight was to be with Great Britain, the issue became too^eerlous to be settled by such international law as is dispensed on the stump. A very bitter controversy over the question began in the Senate as soon as the House resolution was received. But from the outset it was apparent that those who adhered to the 54° 40' policy, on which Mr. Polk had been elected, were In a small minority. That minority was led by General Cass ; but its most brilliant advocate in debate was Edward A. Hannegan, Democatic Senator from Indiana, who angrily reproached his party for playing false to the pledges on which it had won a victory over the greatest political leader of the country. He measured the altuatioo kit m ■y ^ 296 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. accurately, rend with discrimination the motives which underlay the change of policy on the part of the administration and its Southern supporters, and stated the whole case In a quick and curt reply to an interruption from a i)ro-slavery Senator, — "If Oregon were good for the production of sujrar and cotton, it would not have encountered this opposition. Its possession would have been at once secured." The change in the Democratic position was greatly aided hy the attitude of the Whig senators, who almost unanimounly opposed the resohition of notice to Great Britain as passed by the House. Mr. \Vebster, for the first if not the only time in his sena- torial career, read a carefully preiwired speech, in which he did not argue the ques- tion of rightful boundary, but urged that a settlement on the forty-ninth parallel would be honorable to both countries, would avert liostiie feeling, and restore amity and harmony. Mr. Berrien of Georgia made an exhaustive speeeh, inquiring into the rightfulness of title, and urged the line of 40°. Mr. Crittenden followed in the same vein, and in a reply to Senator William Allen of Ohio, chairman of Foreign Affairs, made a speech abounding in sarcasm and ridicule. The Whigs having in the campaign taken no part in the boastful demand for 54° 40', were not subjected to the humiliation of rttracing imprudent steps and retracting unwi.se declarations. Under the influences at work in the Senate, events developed ra|)idly. The House resolution of notice was defeated ; and the Senate j)assed a substitute of a less aggressive type, in which the House, tlirough the instrumentality of a confer- ence conunittee, substantially concurred. The resolution as finally adopted author- ized the President "at his discretion" to give the notice for the termination of the treaty to Great Britain. The preamble further softened the action of Congress by declaring that the notice was given in order that "the attention of the governments of both countries may be the more earnestly directed to the adoption of all proper measures for a speedy and amicable adjustment of the difTerences and disputes in regard to said territory." The Southern Democrats in the House receded from their action, and the modi- fied resolution was carried by nearly as large a vote as had been the previous one for decided and jK-renqitory notice. In short, the great mass of the Southern Demo- crats in both Houses precipitately threw the Oregon issue aside. They had not failed to perceive that the hesitation in the administration in forcing an issue with Mexico was due to the apprehension of trouble with Great Britain, and they made haste to promote schemes of territorial acquisition in the South-West by withdraw- ing the pretensions so imprudently put forth in regard to our claims in the North- west. Only forty-six votes were given in the House against what was termed a disgraceful surrender. These were almost entirely from Northern Democrats, though a few Southern Democrats refused to recede. Among those who thus remained firm were Andrew Johnson, Stephen A. Douglas, Howell Cobb, Preston King, and Allen G. Thurnuin. The passjige of the modified and friendly resolution of notice dispelled all danger of trouble with Great Britain, and restored a sense of security in the United States. Inmicdiately after its adoi)tion, Mr. Buchanan, Secretary of State, under direction of the President, concluded a treaty with the Briti>ih minister on the basis discussed by Mr. Callioun two years before. The fort\ -ninth parallel was agreed upon as the boundary between the two countries, with certain concessions for a defined period, touching the rights of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the navigation of the Columbia River l)y the British. This treaty was promptly con- firmed by the Senate, aiul the long controversy over the Oregon Question was at rest. It had created a deep and wide-spread excitement in the country, and came very near precipitating hostilities with Great Britain. There is no doubt whatever that the English Goveru.nent would have gone to war rather than surrender the territory north of the forty-uluth parallel. This fact bad made the wiuter and early EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 297 spring of 1846 one of profound anxiety to all the people of the United States, and more esiiecially those who were interested in the large mercantile marine which sailed under the Amerioan flag. In simple truth, the country was not prepared to go to war with Great Britain in support of "our clear and uniiuestioiiable title" to the whole of Oregon. With her stronf? naval force (m the Patittc, and her military force in Australasia, Great Britain could more readily and more easily take possession of the country in dispute than could the United States. We had no way of readiing Oregon exce])t by doubling Cape Horn, and making a dangerous sea-voyage of many thousand miles. We could communicate across the continent only by the emigrant trail over rugged mountains and almost trackless ])lains. Our railway system was in its infancy in 184(). New York Oity did not liave a continuous road to Buflalo. Philadelphia was not connected with Pittsburg. Baltimore's jirojected line to the Ohio liud only reached Cumberland, among the eastern foot-hills of the AlIeKhanies. The entire Union had but live thousand nules of railway. There was scarcely a spot on the giolie, outside of the United Kingdom, where we could not have fought England with greater advantage than on tlie north-west coast of America at that time. The war-cry of the Presidential camjiaign of 1814 was, therefore, in any event, absurd ; and it proved to be miscliievous. It is not improbal)le, that, if the Oregon Question had been allowed to rest for the time under the provisions of the treaty of 18:^7, the whole country would ultimately have fallen into our hands, and the American flag miglit to-day i)e waving over British Columbia. The course of events and the lapse of time were working steadily to our atlvantage. In ls:J6 Great Britain de- clined to accept the forty-nintli parallel, but demanded the Columbia River ivs the boundary. Twenty years afterwards she accepted the line previously rejected. American settlers had forced her back. W'ith the sweep of our emigration and civilization to the Pacific Coast two years after the the treaty of 1846, when gold was discovered in California, the tendency would have been still more strongly in our favor. Time, as Mr. Calhoun said, " would have eflecled every thing for us" if we could only have been patient and peaceful. Taking the ({uestion, however, as it stood in 1846, the settlement must, upon full consideration and review, be adjudged honorable to both countries. Wi.'-e statesmen of that day felt, as wise statesmen of subse(iuent years have more and more realized, that a war between Great Britain and the United States would not only be a terril)le calamity to both nations, but that it would stay the progress of civilization throughout the world. Future generations would hold the governing power in both countries guilty of a crime if war should ever be permitted except upon the failure of every other arbitrament. The harmless laugh of one political party at tlie expense of another forty years ago, the somewhat awkward receding from pretensions which could not be maintained by the Executive of the nation, have i)assed into oblivion. But a striking and useful lesson would l)e lost if it should be forgotten that the country was brought to the verge of war by the proclamation of a policy which could not be, and was not intended to be, enforced. It was originated as a cry to catch votes; and except willi the ignorant, and the few whose judgment was carried away by enthusiasm, it was from the first thoroughly insincere. If the punishment could have fallen only upon those who raised the cry, perfect justice would have been done. But the entire country suf- fered, and probably endured a serious and permanent loss, from the false step taken by men who claimed what they could not defend and what they did not mean to defend. The emigration of 1846 consisted of some two thousand souls, bringing with them four hundred and seventy wagons, and one 298 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. thousand and fifty cattle. At Fort Hall about one-half turaed off and followed the Humboldt River route to California, among whom were the Donner Party, whose dreadful sufferings in the Sierra Nevada Mountains form one of the saddest pages of Pacific Coast history. The emigration was divided into a number of independ- ent trains, each having its own leader and guide. Of those whose destination was the Willamette? Valley, the greater portion pursued the old route down Snake Iliver, and reached Oregon City without any unusual incident. Not so wnth all of them, for one hundred and fifty people, with forty-two wagons, were induced at Fort Hall to attempt a new route. At Fort Hall, Fort Boise and Fort Walla Walla, the Hudson's Bay Company was doing a thriving trade with the immigrants, selling them supplies and buying for a song their worn-out cattle, or giving in exchange for them an order on the Chief Factor at Vancouver for a like number of the wild cattle belonging to the company. The genei'al feeling against the com- pany was very bitter, and in the spi'ing of 1846 a number of men who had settled in the extreme southern end of the valley, decided to explore for a new route that would miss the company's posts and present less obstacles to the passage of wagons than the old one down Snake River. They V)elieved that further south it was less mountainous, and that Meek's idea of the year before was correct, his error consisting in not keeping far enough to the south. If this new route could be found they would accomplish the two-fold object of drawing the immigrants away from the trading posts and bringing them first into the upper end of the valley, where, prob- ably,' the majority of them would settle — a result earnestly desired by the few who had already made their homes in that regivn. These men have been charged with having the latter result as their sole object, and that to accomplish it they deceived the immigrants as to the character of the route; but the allegation requires to sus- tain it far more proof than has yet been adduced, especially when made against such men as the Applegates. The road party was composed of Captain Levi Scott, Jesse ...id Lindsay Applegate, John Jones, John Owens, Henry Boggus, Wil- liam Sportsman, Samuel Goodhue, Robert Smith, Moses Harris, John Scott, William G. Parker, David Goff, and Benjamin F. Burch. They passed through Umpqua Valley and Rogue River EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 299 ..ad Valley, crossed t>ie Cascades to Klamath, Tule and Goose lakes, and thence over the arid hills and valleys of Nevada to Fort Hall. They found the route to present far less obstacles to the passage of wagons than the old one, and were of the opinion that water and grass existed at sufficiently short intervals to render it a practicable one for emigrant trains. In this latter opinion they were not cor- rect, though a few years later, the route having been remodeled and new watering places found, it was quite extensively used by emi- grants to Northern California and Southern Oregon. The trouble lay chiefly in the fact that they were mounted, and traveled much more rapidly than the slow-moving emigrant wagon, and were th uS easily led into a mistake in judgment. The consequence was, that those who were led by their representations at Fort Hall to try the new route, found it almost de\oid of water and grass until Goose Lake was reached. They suffered severely, and their cattle became so feeble that they could scarcely pull the wagons along, many of them lying down in the endless sea of sage brush to die. From Goose Lake to Umpqua Canyon water and grass were plentiful, but the work kept the cattle from recuperating fully, so that they reached the canyon in very poor condition. Here was reached the climax. The feeble cattle, such of them as remained alive, were unequal to the task of pulling the wagons through. Added to this their great loss of time had caused the exhaustion of their supplies, which they had not the opportunity to replenish offered by the trading posts along the old route. Their hardships were great ; and many of them, abandoning everything in the canyon, reached the valley in a deplorable condition. Among these were Hon. J. Quinn Thornton and wife, who experienced exceptionally severe hai'dships. The impression then received by Mr. Thornton, that those who had induced him to depart from the old route had done so by means of willful falsehood and for unworthy and selfish motives, has never faded away. It has given rise to much acrimonious discus- sion and bitter feeling, and is the more to be regretted because the two leaders of the controversy — Mr, Thornton and Jesse Ap})legate — are both gentlemen of great natural and acquired attainments, of sterling integrity, and receive the universal respect and honor of their fellow pioneers. A roster of the emigrant trains of 1846 has never been prepared. 800 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. The immigrants brought with them intelligence that the bound- ary question was again being negotiated, and was in a fair way to be settled, giving the country, as far north, at least, as the forty- ninth parallel, to the United States ; and this had a most cheering effect upon this small self-governed connnunity. The annual elec- tion for representatives and county officers occurred June 4, 1846. The following gentlemen wei'e chosen members of the Legislature : Hiram Straight, A. L. Lovejoy, W. G.T' Vault, from Clackamas; J. L. Meek, Lawrence Hall, D. H. Lownsdale, from Tualatin; Jesse Looney, Angus McDonald, Robert Newell, A. Chamljerlain, from Champoeg; Govei-nor Sinmions, from Clatsop; Thomas Jeffreys, A. J. Hembree, from Yamhill; J. E. Williams, John D. Boon, from Polk; Henry Peers, from Vancouver; \V. F. Tolmie, from Lewis. Lewis had been cut from Vancouver (now Clarke) by the previous Legislature, both lying on the north side of the Columbia. Another event of 1846 was the founding of the Oregon Spectator at Oregon City, printed upon the pre«? brought in 1830 from the Sandwich Islands. The first number was issued in February, and it was the first newspaper upon the Pacific Coast, since the initial number of the Californian was not printed at Montei'ey until the fifteenth of the following August. On the tenth of September the United States schooner Shark was lost on the bar of the Columbia while endeavoring to put to sea, and her stand of colors was a'l the crew saved from the wreck. Lieutenant Howison, her com- mander, enjoyed the hospitalities of the pioneers for several months, and upon taking his departure presented the colors to the people through Governor Abernethy, accompanied by the following letter: — One of the few articles preserved from the ship-wreck of tlie late United States schooner Shark, was her stand of colors. To display the national emblem, and cheer our citizens in this distant territory by its presence, was a principal olnject of the Shnrk^s visit to the Columbia; and it appearsto me, therefore, highly proper that it should henceforth remain with you, as a memento of parental regard from the General Government. With the fullest confidence that it will be received and duly appreciated as suoh by our countrymen here, I do myself the honor of transmitting the flags (an Ensign and Union Jack) to your address ; nor can I omit the occasion to express my gratification and pride that this relic of my late command should be emphatically the first United States fiag to wave over the undisputed and purely American territory of Oregon. The flags still, on proper occasions, flutter in the Oregon breezes. Lieutenant Howison, upon his return, wrote a report of Oregon EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 301 a'l and the struggles of her loyal citizens, which did much to open the eyes of the Government to the condition of this region and the necessity of doing something for the protection of thosse liardy people who had carried the picket line of republican institutions so far into the wilderness. The immigi'ation of 1847 has been estimated at five thousand souls, fully two-thirds of whom cauje to Oregon, the remainder adding their strength to the Americans who were struggling to hold possession of California against the defeated Mexicans, from whose grasp it had been wrested. Many most valuable things were brought by them, things which added largely to the means the people possessed to increase their comfort and wealth. As one of them (Hon. Ralph C. Geer) expressed it in a recent speech, they " l)rought everything nearly, from a paper of pins to a four-foot buhr." The mill-stones were brought by a Mr. liaun, a Missouri miller of consideralde notoriety. Another important item was a herd of pure Durham cattle, brought by John Wilson, of Illinois, who also had among his effects some splendid brood mares. Cap- tain Benser and J. C. Geer, Sr., also brought some fine cattle, and M. L. Savage, the well known race horse " Old George.'' In a few years the cattle and horses of the Willamette Valley showed the effects of tliis introduction of blooded stock among them. Mr. Fields contributed a flock of fine sheep from Missouri, whose descendants have always been held in high esteem by the farmers of the valley. " Uncle " Headrick, William T^^iin, Johnson Mulkey and R. Patton also brought flocks of fine sheep. Thomas and Wil- liam Cox brought a stock of goods and opened at Salem the first store south of Champoeg. They also brought peach pits and planted them. A. R. Dimick brought potato seeds, which he planted in the northern part of Marion County, raising the famous " Dimick " potatoes. Mr. Geer brought a bushel of apple seeds and a half bushel of pear seeds, which went far toward supplying the coast with fruit trees. But by far the most important under- taking of all is thus related by Mr. Geer: — But the greatest undertaking, and one that was crowned with success, and one that contributed the most to the name and fame of Oregon, was the "Traveling Nursery," brought across the plains by the late Henderson Luelling, in 1847. If a man is a benefactor to his race who ma'.eg two spears of grass grow where only one grew before, what is be to his State who makes luscious pears, cherries, plums and 802 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. apples grow, where only poor seedlingB, or none, grew before! Mr. Henderson LuollinK, by briiiKlnvc tliat splendid assortment of apples, peurs, plums, cherries, quinces, grapes, berries and flowers in his "Traveling Nursery" to Oregon in 1847, gave to Oregon the name of "Ood's Country, or the Land of Big lied Apples," a nume that every pioneer of Oregon feels proud of. I never thought Mr. Luelllng received the reward that his enterprise merited. I have dealt with him to the extent of thousands of dollars, from one dollar to two thousand dollar transactions, and always found him honest. Being honest himself lie trusted too much, and conse(|uently was victindzed to a fearful extent. The conception and carrying out of that cnti'ri)riHe was not tlie sudden conviction as to the importance of tiie fruit liusiiR'Hs, but was the result of a train of circumstances, the most controlling of wliidi was his long and successful engagement in the nursery business. In the fall of 1845 he began to prepare to start to Oregon, but could not dispose of his land in time to start until it would be quite late, so he concluded to wait another year and bring the "Traveling Nursery." He planted his nursery thus: He made two boxes twelve inches deep, and just wide and long enough to All the wagon bed, and filled them with a compost consisting principally of charcoal and earth, into which he i)lanted about seven hundred trees and shrubs, from twenty inches to four feet high, and protected tliem from the stock by a light though strong frame fastened to the wagon bed. He left the Missouri River the seventeenth of May. On the Platte Mr. Luelling took charge of the nursery wagon and team to bring it through in his own way and time, for it was already pronounced by some of his friends as a very hazardous undertaking to draw such a heavy load all tlie way over the Kodiy Mountains; but every discouraging proposition he inv '•■' answered, that so long as he could take it without endangering the safety of h: family, he would stick to it. The last time that any one tried to discourage him about the nursery wagon was on the North Platte. Rev. Mr. Wliite suggested that he had l)etter leave it, as the cattle vvere becoming weary and foot-sore, and that owing to the continued weight of that load, it would kill all his cattle and prevent his getting througli; but his answer was such an emphatic "no," that he was allowed to follow his own course after that without remonstrance. The nursery reached The Dalles about the first of October, and the trees were there taken out of the boxes and securely wrapped in cloths to protect them from frosty nights and the various handlings that they had to undergo in the transit down the Columbia. That load of trees contidned health, wealth and comfort for the old pioneers of Oregon. It was the mother of all our early nurseries and orchards, and gave Oregon a name and fame that she never would have had with- out it. The load of living trees and shrubs brought more wealth to Oregon than any ship that ever entered the Columbia River. Then I say hail, all hail, to the " Traveling Nursery " that crossed the plains in 1847! Besides those already mentioned the immigration of 1847 con- tained many who subsequently became prominent in the political, professional and industrial life of Oregon, one of them being Hon. Samuel R. Thurston, who first represented the Territory in Con- gress, and in whose honor Thurston County, now in Washington Territory, was named. A portion of the immigration of 1847 came down the Humboldt and over the Applegate trail to Southern Oregon, the route which EIGHTEEN FORTY-FOUR TO EIGHTEEN FORTY-NINE. 303 liad been found such a disastrous one tlie year before. They were guided by Captain lievi Scott, the man who had been the leader of the road exploring party, and who accoi.ipanied the first of the four ti-ains which this year followed that route. They e.\])erience(l no un- usual difficulty, and ac('oni[)lished the whole distance from Snake River, at the mouth of liaft River, to the head of Willamette Val- ley, in sixty-three days, a much c-horter time than it took the unfortu- nate party with Mr. Thornton. One of them, lion. Thomas Smith, says: "We got tlirough ' the Canyon ' with Init little trouble, although it was such a bug-a-])oo to the emigration the year before." The easy passage of these trains in 1847 is conclusive evidence that the disasters of 1840 can not be wholly chai-gcd up to the unfavorable character of the route, and that the gentlemen who persuaded the immigi'ants to attempt its passage were not guilty of so much mis- representation of it as has been charged against them. Of the members of these trains — one of which attempted to reach the Sac- ramento Valley from near Lost River, but failed and came to Ore- gon — Mr. Smith remend)ers the following, many of whom still re- side in the State : John Gi'imsby, wife and six chihlren; Abraham Coryell and two grown sons, Lewis and George; Benjamin Davis, wife and six children; Ira AVells, \vife and one child; David WVlls and wife; William Wyatt, wife and two or three children; William Aldrich, Sr., and wife; William Aldrich, Jr., and wife; Andrew Welsh, wife and two or three children ; William Johnson; AVilliara Risk; John Benson; David Cook; Thomas Smith; Mr. Davidson; John Lebo; David D. Davis and family; Briggs, Sr., and wife; Briggs, Jr., and wife; Prior F. Blair and family; James Frederick and family; John Aiken and family; James Chapin; Cornelius Hills; Charnell Mulligan; Wilkesou Gouldy; Joseph Downer; John Gilliam; George Gilliam. Or the third of June, 1847, was held the annual election for of- ficers, both territorial and county. There were 1,074 votes cast, of which George Abernethy received 536, A. Lawrence Lovejoy 520, A. Husted 11, and scattering 7; thus continuing Mr. Abernethy as the Chief Executive of the Provisional Government. The follow- ing gentlemen were chosen members of the Legislature: Medorum Crawford, J. W. Wair, S. S. White, from Clackamas; Ralph Wil- cox, Joseph L. Meek, David Hill, fr ui x'ualatin; Willard H. Rees, 304 HISTORY OF ■W'lLLAMETTE VALLEY. A. Chamherlain, Robert Newell, Anderson Cox, AV. H. Rector, from Champoeg; L. A. Rice, Lew's Rogers, A. J. Hembree, from Yamhill; J. W. Nesmith, N. A. Ford, W. St. Clare, from Polk; Henry Peers, William Ryan, from Vancouver; S. Plamonden, from Lewis; J. Robinson, from Clatsop. The next and last election under the Provisional Government was held June 12, 1848. The usual county officers were chosen and the following members of the Legislature: A. L. Lovejoy,* George L. Curry, J, S. Snook,* from Clackamas; William J. Bailey, Robert Newell, A. Gaines, William Portius, from Champoeg; Ralph Wilcox, Samuel R. Thui'ston, Peter H. Burnett, from Tual- atin; AVilliam Martin, A. J. Hembree, L. A. Rice, from Yamhill; H. Linnville, J. AV. Nesmith, Osborn Rusfiell, from Polk. The emigration of 1848 was quite large, though statistics in re- lation to it have never been gathered. Many who had originally started for Oregon changed their destination for California when learning while en route of the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill. * Resigned, and Medorum Crawford and A. F. Hedges chosen at special election Nov. 27, 1848. CHAPTER XVm. THE WHITMAN MASSACRE AND THE CAYUSE WAR. Condition of Protestant and Catholic Missions in 18Jf7 — Situation of Affairs at Waiilatpu — Tom Hill and Joe Lewis— Whitman Buys The Dalles Mission and Prepares to Abandon Walilatjm— Catholics Establish a Mission on the Umatilla — Sickness among the Cayuses — Joe Leiois' Poison Story — Evidence of Coltmel Craig and the Whitman Indians — Details of the Massacre — Charges Against the Catholics — Hansom of the Captives — Action of the Provisional Gover7iment — Oregon Rifles Take Possession of The Dalles — A Regi- ment Organised — Campaign in the Cayxise Country — End of the War — Five Cayuses Executed at Oregon City. THE condition of the various missions has been noted from time to time, showing that the Catholics were making rapid pi'o- gress, the inissions of the American Board east of the mountains advancing S)ut slowly, and the Methodists losing ground so rapidly that woi'k was discontinued every^vhere but at The Dalles in 1844. The mission property at that point was sold to Dr, Whitman in the fall of 1847, The Catholics at that time numbered in their con- gregations fifteen hundred whites and half-breeds of Canadian descent, and six thousand Indian neophytes. Dishop F. N. Blanchet was at the liead of the diocese, which included not only Oregon, Washington, Idaho and Montana, but British Cohmibia, then known m " New Caledonia." Bishop Blanchet was in j)ersonal charge of the field west of the Cascades, Father A. M. A. Blanchet east of the moimtains, and Father Modest Demers in New Caledonia. There were twenty-six clergymen employed, among whom were P'athers Michael Occolti, Peter J. DeSmet, Peter DeVos, Audrian Hoecken, Joseph Joset, Gregory Mengarini, John Nobili, Nicholas 306 HISTORY OP WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Point, Anthony Ravalli, Aloysius Vercruysse, Anthony Sandlois, John Baptist Balduc. In the Willaraett*? Valley there had been built St. Paul's Cathedral, St. Mary's Convent, St. Francis Xave- rius' Chapel, St. John's, in Oregon City, and a new church in French Prairie; there were also churches at Vancouver, Cowlitz and Whidby in AVestern Washington, four in New Caledonia, St. Mary's among the Flat Heads, Sacred Heart at Cceur d'Alene, St. Ignatius at Lake Pend U 'Oreille, and St. Paul near Fort Colville. There were also half a dozen other stations where chapels or churches were contemplated. In the way of institutions of learning St. Paul's College and an academy for girls had been founded in the Willamt:l;te Valley, and other schools were maintained at some of the older missions. This ari-ay of strength is a startling comparison ^vith the feebleness of the Protestant Missions. The leading causes have been pointed out — the powerful influence of the Hudson's Bay Company, the methods, ceremonies and discipline of the Catholic Church, and the fact that they were not, like the Protest- ants, held responsible by the Indians for the gi'eat influx of Ameri- can settlers. Of the missions of the America . Board, that at Lapwai was making slight progress, Tshimikain Avas holding its own, and Waiilatpu Avas retrograding. At each station there were a few who seemed to be in full accord with the missionaries, but the majority were indifferent, and some were even hostile. At Waiilatpu things had been going wi'ong for some time. From the time Whitman first went among thein there was a small portion of the Cayuses who were opposed to him and his work, Tam-su-ky, an influential chief who resided on the Walla Walla, being at the head of this turbulent faction. When Whitman returned with th*; great train of emigrants in 1843, these Indians pointed to it as an evidence that his missionary pretensions were but a cloak to cover his design upon their liberties, that he was bringing Americans into the country to take away their lands. This feeling of hostility spread from year to year, especially among the Cayuses, through whose country the emigrants nearly all passed, and who were thus better able than the other tribes to see in what great numbers they came and what a cordial welcome they received from Dr. Whitman and his associates. In 1845 a Delaware Indian, called 'Tom Hill," THE WHITMAN MASSACRE AND THE CAYUSE WAR. 307 was and few the At tlie I of ky, the the IS an cover 8 into tility ough thus they itman Hill," lived among the Nez Perces and told them how American mission- aries visited his people to teach them religion, and were soon fol- lowed by other Americans who took away their lands; and he warned them to drive Mr. Spalding away, unless they would invite a similar misfortune. This Indian visited Whitman's Mission and related to the Cayuses the story of the ruin of his tribe which had followed the advent of American missionaries among them. In the latter part of 1847 arother Indian came among the Cay- uses, about whose pedigree there has been so much dispute that it is as well to pass it by. He had spent much time among the whites, and being serviceable as an interpreter, and being ^lossessed ot much intelligence, the doctor gave him employment about the mission. He seemed to be possessed of a fiendish disposition and to harbor a special malignity against the Americans. Joe Lewis, for such was his name, reaffirmed the statements of Tom Hill, and said that it was the American plan to first send missionaries, and then a few settlers every year, until they had taken all the land and made the Indians slaves. Tam-su-ky and his followers were now triumphant, and boasted of their superior wisdom in opposing the mission from the first. Besides this faction there were now many who desired to exchange to the Catholic religion, of which they heard favorable reports from other tribes. The long black gowns and imposing ceremonies had captured them. Whitman was warned of the danger he ran by Um-howlish and Stick-us, but though he per- ceived the gathering storm he thought it could be averted. Thomas McKay, between whom and the doctor there existed a wai'm friend- ship, also warned him that it was unsafe to live longer among the Cayuses, and Whitman offered to sell the property to him, an offer which he agreed to accept if he could dispose of his claim in the Willamette Valley. With this sale in view. Whitman went to The Dalles in the fall of 1847, and purchased the disused Methodist Mission, and placing his nephew, P. B. Whitman, in charge, re- turned to spend the winter at Waiilatpu, preparatory to moving to his new location in the spring. This was the condition of affairs when the Catholics decided to take advantage of the desire of a number of the Cayuses to embrace that faith and establish a mission among them. On September 5, 1847, Father A. M. A. Blanchet reached Walla Walla with three associate priests, and the fort be- d08 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. came their headquarters for a number of weeks while they were seek- ing a place suitable for a peimanent location. There Whitman found them upon his return fi'oni The Dalles, and quite a stormy interview ensued, though it must be confessed tliat the storming was chiefly done by the indignant doctor; and no Avonder. He had just made arrangements to abandon all he had accomplished by eleven years of self-denial and labor, and here he found those to whom he attributed his misf(^rtunes ready to take his place even before he had left it. He made known his displeasure in strong terms, but his rebuke was received with an unruffled coolness that served but to increase his a<r!Zi''ivation. Thev tiuallv located on the Umatilla at the home of Five Crows, the head chief, two days before the massacre, Father J. B. A. Brouillet beiuL^ in charge. That year immigrants from the States brought with them dyseu- terj' and the measles, which soon became epidemic among the Cay- uses. Many Indians died in spite of the ren)edies administered by the doctor and the careful attention ( r nis noble wife. This was Joe LeAvis" oppoitunity. He told the Cayuses that Whitman intended to kill them all; that for this purpose he had sent home for poison tAvo yeai*s before, but they had not forvt'arded a good kind; this year the inniiigrants had brought him some good poison, and he was now using it to kill oif the Cayuses; that when they were all dead the Americans would come and take their lands. He even went so far as to declaie that he overheard a conversation bet\A een Mr. Spalding and Doctor and Mrs. Whitman, in which the former complainetl l>ecause the doctor was not killing them fast enough, and then the trio began to count up the wealth they would acf[uire when the Indians were all disposed of. He also asserted that the priest (Father Brouillet) had told him the Doctor was giv- ing them poison. A nvunber of years before an American trapper and renegade had purposely spread small-pox among the Blackfeet, and killed hundreds of that tribe. This was well known by all the Indian tril>es from tlie Cascades to the Missouri, and had its effect in leading tlie Cayuses to believe the Doctor was poisoning them. These statements are made upon the authority of the written statement of Colonel William Craig, a well-known American trapper and trader, who happeneil to be at LapAvai when a Cayuse messenger arrived there nine days after the massacre, for the purpose of to lar eve Fo] THE WHITMAN MASSACRE AND THE CATTJSE WAR, 309 the 'iVSt t«^d :eet, all its ning itten pper mger se of informing the powerful Nez Perces of what had taken place and securing their support. Colonel Craig was present at the council, and heard these reasons given by the Cayuse courier. They are also based upon an interview held by the writer with three of these Indians at Pendleton, one of them, Um-howlish, being a chief at the time of the massacre and a warm supporter of Whitman, and still an adherent of the simple faith taught him by the Doctor. On the point of the priest telling that Whitman was giving them poison, they unanimously agreed that they never heard him say so, but that Joe Lewis had told them tiie priest said it ; that it was gener- ally believed at the time that the priest had thus stated, but after- wards, in canvjissing tlie question among themselves, no one could be found to whom the priest had said anything of the kind, and that it all came through Joe Lewis. One thing the Komau mis- sionary did say, and this helped to contii-m them in the belief that he had said the other — that Dr. Whitman was a bad man, and if they believed what he told them they would all go to, hell, for he was telling them lies. Even sucli a statement as that, coming from such a source, and nuide to unreasoning and ^^assiouate savages, already unduly excited by the loss of so many of their number, w^is (■nough, in case they believed it true, to have caused the bloody scene wliich ft>lk)wed, even had not the ])oison theory been so industriously circulated Ijy the scheming L nvis. Without knowing of the j:)erfidious conduct of Joe Lewis, Whitman recognized the impending danger, and retpiested McKay to spend the wintei- with him ; but he was unable to comply. The followers of Tam-su-ky determined to put the poison theory to a practical test. The wife of that chief was sick; and they agreed among themselves that they would get some medicine from the Doctor and give it to her; if she recovered, good; if not, then they would kill the missionaries. They made the e.x2:)eriment, and the woman died. Waiilatpu was centrally located, since the Cay- uses occupied the c(mntry from the Umatilla to the Tukannon. Every Sunday large numlx^rs gathered at the Mission, some of them to actually participate in the vservices, and others liecause of the large crowd they knew would be assembled. On week days, how- ever, it was seldom that a dozen could be found there at a time. For this reason Tam-su-ky and his followers chose a week day for 310 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. their bloody deed — a time when they thought none of the Whitman Indians would be present to interfere. They were careful to con- ceal their designs fi'om the Christian Indians and from Five Crows, for fear its execution would be prevented. On Noveml)er 29, 1847^ about fifty Indians assembled at the Mission, chiefly the relatives and fi"iends of Tam-su-ky. Of these, only five actually participated in the bloody work, the others simply looking on and preventing the interference of any outsiders, and especially of the one or two Whitman Indians who happened to be present. The horrible de- tails of the massacre it is needless to relate. Mr. Spalding has given them with a minuteness that is strongly suggestive of a liberal use of the imagination, yet his narrative is, in the main, pro])ably as correct as could be gathered from the incoherent stories of fi'ight- ened women and children. It is only when he carries the melodra- matic too far, and when he is endeavoring to make it appear that the massacre was committed at the instigation of Father Brouillet, and was sanctioned by the Hudson's Bay Company, that his state- ments become positively unreliable; though throughout the whole account they closely border upon the line of uncertainty and doubt- ful authenticity, and the deductions drawn are often extremely un- charitable and illogical. He uses such expressions as " multitudes of Indians," " cutting down their victims everywhere," " the roar of guns," "t^ra^// of warclubs and tomahawks^ "shocks like terrific peals of thunder " (referring to the desultory discharge of a few guns), ^'^ crash of the clubs and the knives^ and yet, when the whole is summed up, but thirteen were killed in all — nine that daj', two the next, and two eight days later. He is equally reckless in his language when making charges against Father Brouillet, whom he accuses of coming up fi'om the Umatilla the day after the mas- sacre and " baptizing the murderers." The facts are, that he came upon an invitation given him by the Missionary several days before, only learning of the horrible tragedy upon his arrival; and the " murderers " whom he baptized were three sick children, two of whom expired immediately after the ceremony. He also accuses him of pretending to find the poison and burying it so that it could have no more influence. On this point the Whitman Indians state positively that this performance was done by Joe Lewis, and not the Priest. The only interference the Priest dared to make openly Sa THE WHITMAN MASSACRE AND THE CATIJSE WAR. 311 in liom ore, the of uses )uld jtate not enly was when he successfully interposed to save Spalding's life, and gave liim food upon which to subsist during his flight to Lapwai. The bloody excesses into which religious zealots were led in times past suggest the possibility of the truth of these charges, yet they are entirely unsupported by evidence which would appeal to the intelligence of any one unbijised by denominational prejudice; and common charity should demand convincing proof to sustain such an accusation. The Catholics can not, however, escape a large measure of moral responsibility. They went among the Cayuses for the purpose of driving Whitnuui away and obtaining control of the tril>e; and to accomplish this they told the Indians that Doctor Whitman was a l)ad man and was telling them lies, and if they did {IS he said they would surely go to hell. Father Brouillet ought by that time to have become sufliciently acquainted with the Indian character to know that such assertions, if they were credited, were calculated to bring a])out just such a tragedy a.s was enacted. The massacre was the result of four distinct causes — the dislike of Americans, the ravages of the epidemic, the poison intrigue of Joe Lewis, and the Priest's denunciation of Doctor Whitman, and where the responsibility for one of these rests is easily seen. The victims of Cayuse ignorance and passion were: Doctor Marcus Whitman, Mrs. Narcissa Whitman, John Sager, Francis Sager, Crocket Bewley, Mr. Kogei-s, Mr. Kimball, Mr. Sales, Mr. Marsh, Mr. Saunders, James Young, Jr., Mr. Hoffman and Isaac Gillen. Intelligence of the massacre reached Fort Vancouver by special messenger from William McBean to James Douglas, the Chief Factor. The courier did not warn the people at The Dalles of their danger as he passed, and when (piestioned about his conduct replied that he obeyed the instructions of jVLr. McBean. This and McBean's conduct at Fort Walla Walla in displaying an unwilling- ness to give shelter to fugitives from Waiilatpu, have l)een cited as conclusive evidence that the Hudst)n's Bay Company connived at the massacre; but nothing in the conduct of other officers of the company sustains such an opinion, while nuich is to the contrary, and it simply shows that McBean, knowing the general feeling of the Indians against the Americans, was afraid he would compro- mise the company by defending them. He had not soul enough to rise to the emergency. Mr. Douglas sent a messenger to Governor 312 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Abernethy, apprising him of what had taken place; and without waiting to see wliat steps the Americans would take, Peter, Skeen Ogden, an old and influential factor of the company, <leparted from Vancouver with an armed force to the scene of the tragedy. He held a council with the Cavuses at Fort Walla Walla, and offered to rausom the captives, assuring the Indians that the company was exceedingly displeased with their conduct, and they would much regret it if they provoked the Americans to war. The conference resulted in the surrender of forty-seven prisoners, cliiefly women and children, and on January 1, fifty Nez Perces arrived with Mr. Spalding and ten others, who were also ransomed. On the tenth they all reached Oregon City, and great was the joy of the people. For his humane conduct and prompt action Peter Ogden should always occupy a warm place in the heart of Americans; yet there are those who ungratefully accuse him of attempting to arm the Cayuses against the Americans, simply because a few guns and a little ammunition formed a portion of the ransom paid to deliver these helpless women from a capti\'ity which was woive than death. The pen fails utterly to depict the teirible sufferings inflicted upon them, including even girls of a tender age, bordering upon infancy. No ransom was too great for their release. The first intelligence received by the settlers in t\\e Willamette Valley of the tragedy at Waiilatpu, was the note sent to Governor Abernethy by Dr. McLoughlin. The Governor immediately com- municated it to the Legislature, then in session, and called for vol- unteers. A public meeting was held in Oregon City that night, the eighth of December, and a company was organized for the purpose of taking possession of The Dalles. As winter had set in, there was no danger of an invasion from east of the mountains except by way of The Dalles. How much of a combination there was among the Cayuses and their neighbors was not known. Con- sequently it was necessary to provide against the worst that might be expected. It was evident that a force at The Dalles was neces- sary as a protection to the settlements in the valley. Of this com- pany Henry A. G. Lee was elected Captain, and Joseph Magone and John E. Ross Lieutenants. The credit of the Provisional Government was pledged by the Legislature to secure equipments for the command, but the committee which visited Vancouver found THE WHITMAN MASSACRE AND THE CAYUSE WAR. 313 that the Chief Factt r preferred their individual responsibility. Upon giving this, arms were issued to the " Oi'egon Rifles," who reached Vancouver on the tenth to receive them. On the twenty- first they reached The Dalles and went into camp. In the mean- time the Legislature entered with energy upon a series of resolutions and enactments with a view to a military organization of magnitude sufficient to chastise the Indians, and the citizens hy subscriptions and enlistments seconded cordially the efforts of their Provisional (xovernment. Many were for pushing forward into the enemy's country at once with a formidable force, but wiser counsels pre- vailed, and nothing was done likely to prevent the Indians from surrendering their white captives to Mr. Ogden. In pursuance of the act of December 9, a regiment of fourteen companies of volunteers was raised and eipiipped upon the credit of the Provisional Government. It speaks volumes for the })rave pio- neers of the Willamette that they thus responded to thecall of duty, supplying, in most cases, their own arms, equipments and horses, without a mercenary thought entering their minds. It was no specu- lation either by the %'olunteers or the men who furnished supplies — something which can not be said of certain subsequent campaigns. The following is a roster of the officers: — FIELD AND STAFF OFFICERS. Colonel, Cornelius Gilliam (accidentally killed). Lieutenant-Colonel, James Waters (promoted to Colonel). Major, H. A. G. Lee. • Adjutant, B. F. Burch. Surgeon, W. M. Carpenter. Assistant Surgeons, F. Snider and H. Saffarans. Conmiissary, Joel Palmer. Quartermaster, B. .lennings. Paymaster, L. B. Knox. Judge Advocate, Jacob S. Rinearson. LINE OFFICERS. Company A — 55 men— Captain, Lawrence Hall ; First Lieutenant, H. D. O'Bryant; Second Lieutenant, John Engent. Company B— 43 men — Captain, .lohn W. Owens ; First Lieutenant, A. F. Rogers; Second Lieutenant, T. C. Shaw. Company C— 84 men— Captain, H. J. G. Maxon; First Lieutenant, I. N. Gilbert; Second Lieutenant, Wm. P. Pugh. Company D — 36 men — Captain, Thomas McKay ; First Lieutenant, Charles McKay; Second Lieutenant, Alex. McKay. 314 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Company D— 62 men— Captain, PhlL F. Thompson ; First Lieutenant, *Ja8. Brown; Second Lieutenant, J. M. Garrison. Company E— 44 men— Captain, Levi N. English ; First Lieutenant, Wm. Shaw ; Second Lieutenant, F. M. Munliers. Company E— 36 men— Captain, William Martin ; First Lieutenant, A. E. Garrison ; Second Lieutenant, David Waters. Company E— 63 men— Captain, W. P. Pugh; First Lieutenant, N. R. Doty; Second Lieutenant, M. Ramsely. Company G — 66 men — Captain, James W. Nesmith ; First Lieutenant, J. S. Snooltl Second Lieutenant, M. Gilliam. Company H — 19 men- Captain, George W. Bennett; First Lieutenant, J. R. Bevin; Second Lieutenant, J. R. Payne. tCompany 1—36 men— Captain, William Shaw ; First Lieutenant, D. Crawford ; Second Lieutenant, B. Dario. Company No. 7 — 27 men— Captain, J. M. Garrison; First Lieutenant, A. E. Garri- son ; Second Lieutenant, John Hersen. F. S. Water's Guard— 57 men— Captain, Wa. Martin; First Lieutenant, D. Wes- ton; Second Lieutenant, B. Taylor. Reorganized Company— Captain, John E. Ross; First Lieutenant, D. P. Barnes; Second Lieutenant, W. W. Porter. Colonel Gilliam reached The Dalles on the twenty-third of February, with fifty men, followed a few days later by the. re- mainder of the regiment. On the twenty-seventh he moved to the Des Chutes with one hundred and thirty men, crossed to the east bank, and sent Major Lee up that stream about twenty miles on a reconnoisance, where he found the enemy, engaged them, killed one, lost some of his horses and returned to report progress. On the twenty-ninth Colonel Gilliam moved up the Des Chutes to Meek's Crossing, at the mouth of the cayon in which Major Lee had met the Indians. The next morning, on entering the canyon, a skirmish followed, in which were captured from the hostiles, forty horses, four head of cattle and $300 worth of personal property, all of which was sold by the Quartermaster for $1,400. The loss of the Indians in killed and wounded was not known. There was one white man wounded. The result was a treaty of peace with the Des Chutes Indians. The command pushed immediately for- ward to the Walla Walla country and reached the Mission prior to March 4. On the way to that place a battle occurred at Sand Hollows, on the emigrant road, eight mi]*^s east of the Well Springs. It commenced on the plain where washes in the sand make natural hiding places for a foe, and lasted until towards night. The volun- • Died at Vancouver, February 30, 1848. t OrganlzedatWaUaWalla, June 7, 1848; mustered out September 28, 18tf. Companies E and No. 7 were consolidated as Company K, April 17, 1848. THE WHITMAN MASSACRE AND THE CAYU8E WAR. 315 teer force was arranged with tlie train in the road, protected by Captain Hall's company. The companies of Captains Thompson and Maxon, forming the left flank, were on the north side of the road, and those of Captains English and McKay, as the I'ight flank, were on the south or right of the command. Upon McKay's com- pany at the extreme right the first demonstration was made. Five Crows, the head chief of the Cayuses, made some pretensions to the possession of wizard powers, and declared to his people that no ball from the white man's gun could kill him. Another chief of that tribe named "War Eagle," or "Swallow Ball," made similar pro- fessions, and stated that he could swallow all the bullets from the guns of the invading army if they were fired at him. The two chiefs promised their people that Gilliam's command should never reach the Umatilla River, and to demonstrate their invulnerability and power as medicine chiefs, they dashed out from concealment, rode down close to the volunteers and shot a little dog that came out to bark at them. Captain McKay, although the order was not to fire, could hold back no longer, and bringing his rifle to bear, took deliberate aim and shot War Eagle through the head, killing him instantly. Lieutenant Charles McKay brought his shot gun down to the hollow of his arm, and firing without sighting it, so severely wounded Five Crows that he gave up the command of his warriors. This was a serious, chilling opening for the Indians — two chiefs gone at the first onset and their medicine proved worth- less — but they continued the battle in a skirmishing way, making dashing attacks and masterly retreats until late in the afternoon. At one time during the engagement. Captain Maxon's company followed the enemy so far that it was surrounded, and a sharp en- counter followed, in which a number of volunteers were disabled. In fact, eight of the eleven soldiers wounded that day were of Maxon's company. Two Indians were known to have been killed, but the enemy's loss could not be known as they removed all of their wounded and dead except two. That night the regiment camped on the battlefield without water, and the Indians built large and numerous fires along the bluffs, or high lands, some two miles in advance. The next day Colonel Gilliam moved on, and without incident worthy of note, reached Whitman's Mission the third day after the battle. The 316 HISTOny OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. main body of Indians ft'U hack towards Snake River, and a fruit- lesH atteni]>t followed to induce them to give up the parties who had committed the murders at Waiilatpu. Colonel Gilliam at last determined upon making a raid into the Snake Kiver country, and in carrying out this programme surprised a camp of Cayuses near that stream, among whom were some of the murderers. The cap- tured camp professed friendship, however, and point<d out the horses of Indians on the hill, which, they said, l)eh)nged to the parties Avhom the Colonel was anxious to kill or ca])ture, stating that their owners were on the north side of Snake River, and be- yond reach. So well was their part acted that the officers believed their statements, proceeded to drive off the stock indicated, and started on their return. They soon found that a grievous error had been committed in releasing the village, whose male population were soon mounted upon war horses, and jussailed the volunteers on all sides, forcing them to fight their way as they fell back to the Touchet River. Throuyh the whole dav and even into the niajht after their arrival at the latter stream, tlie contest was maintained — a constant, harassing skirmish. The soldiers drove the Indians back again and again, but as s<x)n as the retreat was resumed, the enemy were upon them once more. Finally, after going into camp on the Touchet, Colonel Gilliam ordered the captured stock turned loose; and when the Indians got possession of it, they returned to Snake River without molesting the command any furthei-. In the struggle on the Touchet, when the retreating soldiers first reached that stream, William Taylor was mortally wounded by an Indian, who sprang up in the bashes by the stream and fired with but a few yards betAveen them, Nathan Olney, afterwards Indian Agent, seeing the act, rushe-t i.pon the savage, snatched from his hand a war club in which was fastened a piece of iron, and dealt him a blow on the head with it with such force as to cause the iron to split the club, and yet failed to kill him. He then closed with his antagonist in a hand-to-hand struggle, and soon ended the contest with a knife. There were no other casualties reported. Colonel Gilliam started from the Mission on the twentieth of March, with a small force destined to return fi'om The Dalles with supplies, while he was to continue to the Willamette and report to the Governor. While camped at Well Springs he was killed by THE WHITMAN MASSACRE AND THE CATD8E WAR. 317 th of with jrt to id by an accidental discharge of a li^un, and his remains wore taken to his friends west of the Casca(h's l)y Major Lee. This officer soon re- turned to his regiment with a commission as Cok)nel, Imt finding Lieutenant-Coh)nel Waters had been elected by the regiment to that position in his absence, he resigned and iillctl a subordinate office for the remain(h'r of his term of enlistnu'ut. The attempt by commissionei's, who had been sent with tlie volunteers, as re([Uested by the Indians in a memoi'ial to the AnitM-ieans at the time the captives were ransomed, tt> negotiate a ju'aceful solution of the difficult problem, failed. They wanted the Indians to deliver up for executittn all those vvhi> had ind)ued their hands in l)lood at Waiilatpu; they wislud the Cayuses to pay all damages to cmi- in*ant.s caused bv their beini; robbed or attacked* while i»assin<r through the Cayuse e(uuitry. The Indians wished nothing of the kind. They wanted peace and to be let ah)ue; for the Americans to call the account balanced and ch-op the imitter. The failure to agree had resulted in two or three skirmishes, one of them at least a severe test of sti'engtii, in which the Indians had received the worst of it, and in the other the volunteers had accomplished noth- ing that could l>e counted a success. The Cayuses, finding that no compromise could be effected, abandoned their country, and most of them passed east of the Rocky Mountains. Notliing was left for the volunteers but to leave the country also, which they did, and the Cayuse War had practically ended. The Cayuses, as a tribe, had no heart in the war. Joe Lewis told them immediately after the massacre that now they must fight, and advised them to send him to Salt Lake with a band of horses, to trade for ammunition with the Mormons. He started with a select band of aninuds, accompanied by two young braves; and a few days later one of them returned with the intelligence that Joe Lewis had killed his companion and decamped with the horses; and this was the last the Cayuses saw of the scheming villain. Thus matters stood until the spring of 1850, when the Cayuses were given to understand that peace could be procured by delivering up the murderers for punishment. At that time Tam-su-ky and his sup- porters, including many relatives who had not in any manne) par- ticipated in the massacre, were hiding in the mountains at the head of John Day River. The Indians who desired peace went after 318 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. them, and a fight ensued, ending i;i the capture of nearly all of the outlawed band. In this fight " Cutmouth John," an Indian well known in Umatilla, while endeavoring to capture one of the mur- derers, received the wound which gave rise to his peculiar appella- tion. Only one of the five actually engaged in the bloody work at Waiilatpu (so the Whitman Indians assert) was captured, and he was Ta-ma-has, an ugly villain whom his countrymen called " The Murderer." It was he who commenced the work of death at Waiilatpu by burying a hatchet in Dr. AVhitman's In-ain. Taking him and four others, several of the older men and chiefs went to Oregon City to deliver them up as hostages. They were at once thrown into prison, condemned and executed at Oregon City on June 3, 1850; and even the ones who had escorted them, in view of this summary proceeding, congratulated themselves upon theu' safe return. They believed that Ta-ma-has should have been hanged, but not the others; and to this opinion the few sur\'ivors of the tribe cling to the present day. CHAPIER XIX. OREGON BECOMES AN ORGANIZED TERRITORY. Neim Brought hy Emigrants in 18^7 very Disheartening — Letter of Senator Benton— J. Quinn Thornton Sent to Washington to Urge Legislation — Incidents of his Journey — Joseph L. Meek sent to Washington after the Whitnu n Massacre — Ills Mid- Winter Journey — Interesting Accoxint of the Contest in the Senate over the Oregon Bill — General Joseph Lr^x Appointed Governor — Ilis Trip Over- land — Organisation of the Goverment — Officers of the Old aitd New Governments — Census of ISJfi — Discovery of Gold in California — Beaver Money. ALTHOUGH the treaty settling the bouuciary line was signed and proclaimed in the summer of 1846, Congress, the foUovi^- ing winter, failed to pass any act creating a government for the people of Oregon, notwithstanding the fact that more than ten thousand Americans were thus denied the protection of the General Government. An appropriation, however, was made for mail ser- vice to Oregon via Panama; an Indian Agent was appointed, also a postmaster (iach for Astoria and Oregon City. One of these officials, Mr. Shively, brought with him two letters for the people of Oregon. One was from James Buchannan, Secretary of State, expressing the deep regret of President Polk that Congress had neglected them, and af^suring them that he would do all in his power to aid them, iui'luding occasional visits from vessels of war and the presence of a regiment of dragoons to protect the emigrants. The other was from Thomas H. Benton, explaining the situation of affairs at Washington, where it was dated in March, 1847. Senator Benton's letter ran as follows: — 320 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Washington City, March, 1847. My friendp (for such I may call many of you from personal acquaintance, all of you from my thirty years' devotion to the interests of your country) — I think it right to make tliis communication to you at the present nioment when the adjourn- ment of Congress, without passing the bill for your government and protection, seems to have left you in a state of abandonment by your mother country. But such is not the case. You are not abandoned ! Nor will you be denied protection unless you agree to admit slavery. I, a man of the Houth, and a slaveholder, tell you this. The House of Representatives, as early as the middle of .January, had passed the bill to give you a territorial government ; and in that bill had sanctioned and legalized your Provisional Organic Act, one of the clauses of which forever pro- hibited the existence of slavery in Oregon. An amfndment from the Senate's committee, to which this bill was referred, proposed to ;'.brogate that prohibition ; and in the delays and vexations to which that amendment gave rise, the whole bill was laid upon the table and Ijst 'or the session. 'JMiis will lie a great disupjiointntent to you and a real lu) . Jitj 'oady five years witliout law or legal iiLstitutions for the protection of li .'■' ^ and property, and now doomed to wait a year longer. Tliis is a strange aiid f..( imalous condition, almost incredible to contem])late, and most criti al to endure! A colony of free men, four thousand miles from the metropolitan government to preserve them! But do not be alarmed or desperate. You will not be outlawed for not ad- mitting slavery. Your fundamental act against that institution, copied from the Ordinance of 1787 (the work of the great men of the South, in the great day of the South, pro- hibiting slavery in a territory far less northern than yours), will not be abrogated! Nor is that the intention of the prime nu)ver of tlie amendment. Upon the record of the Judiciary Committee of the Senate is the author of that amendment, but not so the fact. It is only midwife to it. Its author is the same mind that generated the " Kire IJrand Resolutions," of which I send you a copy, and of which the amendment is the legitimate derivation. Oregon is not the oliject. The most rabid propagandist of slavery can not expect to plant it on the shores of the Pacific in the latitude of Wisconsin and the Lake of the Woods. A home agitation for election and disunion purposes, is all that is intended by thrusting this tire brand question into your bill as it ought to be. I promise you this in the name of the South, as well of the North ; and the event will not deceive me. In the meantime, the PresiUi i will give you all the protection which existing laws can enable him to extend toyoo, and until Congress has time to act, yoiu' friends must rely ii|)on you to continue to govern yourselves t^s you have heretofore done under tli< iirovisions of your own voluntary compact, and with the justice, harmony and moderation whi'^h is due to your own character and to the hont.r of the American name. I send you, by Mr. Shively, a copy of the bill of the late session, both as it passed the House of Representatives and as proposed to be amended in the Senate, with the Senate's vote upon laying it on the table, and a cony of Mr. Calhoim's resolutions (posterior in date to the amendment, but ueverllu4( - ii father); also a copy of your own Provisional Organic Act, printed by order •'• Senate; all of which will put you completely in possession of the proceedings of Congret ^a your petition for a territorial government, and for the protection and secu.', )f your rights. In conclusion, T have to assure you that the wame spirit wliicli has made nje i ';. Mend of Oregon for thirty years— which led me to denounci' the joint occupation treaty the day it was made, and to oppose its renewal in 18-8. anU to labor for its abrogation uutil It waa tHnuiuated; the sane plr!t wb.ea l"d in-^ (o reveal the OREGON BECOMES AN ORGANIZED TERRITORY. 3?,1 grand destiny of Oregon in articles written in 1818, and to support every measure for her benefit since — the same spirit still animates me and will continue to do so while I live — which I hope will be long enough to see an emporium of Asiatic com- merce at the mouth of your river and a stream of Asiatic trade pouring into the valley of the Mississippi through the channel of Oregon. Your friend and fellow-citizen, THOMAS H. BENTON. The assurance contained in these letters that powerful friends were laboring in their interests, was a cheering thought amidst the disappointment of the unfavorable intelligence. It was felt that a representative direct from Oregon would be able to accomplish much, and Hon. J. Quinn Thornton, Supreme Judge of the Pro- visional Government, had been, during the past year, frequently urged by influential men, to proceed to Washington and lal)or with Congress in behalf of Oregon. In particular had the lamented Dr. Whitman requested him to do so, asserting that only the estab- lishment of a strong Territorial Grovernment, one that the Indians would recognize as powerful, would " save him and his mission from falling under the murderous hands of savages." Mr. Thornton recog- nized the importance of such a delegate, ii^id solicited Hon. Peter H. Burnett, subsequently the first Governor of California, to undertake the mission, but without success. The news of the state of affairs at Washington l)rought by Mr. Shively, decided Mr. Thornton, and on the eighteenth of October, 1847, having resigned his judicial office, he departed on his arckious mission, armed with a letter from Governor Abernethy to President Polk. Mr. Thornton was by no means a regularly constitute<l delegate, since Oregon was not authorized to accredit such an official to Congress, but simply went as a private indiNndual, ^presenting in an unofficial manner the Gov- ernor and many of the prominent citizens of Oregon. In fact the Legislature, deeming its fui^ctions Infringed upon by this action of the Governor, passed resolution.; embodying their idea of tlie harm done the colony hy ':he officiousness of " secret factions." There was not ready money enough in the treasury to have paid the pas- sage of Mr. Thornton, even had it been at his disposal. A collec- tion was taken up, contributions being made partly in coin but chiefly in flour, clothing, and any thing that could be of service or \vas convertible into money. A contract was. made with Captain Roland Gelston, of the bark Whiiiony t-o convey Mr. Thornton to m 322 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ■v,. Panama, aud the vessel sailed at once for San Franci&co, and thence to San Juan, on the coast of Lower California. Here the Captain infonned his passenger that he must decline to fulfill his contract, as he desired to engage in the coasting trade. From the perplex- ing dilemma he was extricated by Captain Montgomery, command- ing the United States sloop of war Portsmouth, then lying at anchor in the harbor. This gentleman deemed the mission of Mr. Thornton of sufficient importance to the Government to justify him in leaviiiff his station and returning with his vessel to the Atlantic Coat^; ^I*' accordingly tendered the delegate the hospitalities of his cab» d set sail as soon as preparations could be made for the voyaj.^. The Portsmouth arrived in Boston Harbor on the second of May, 1848, and Mr. Thornton at once hastened to Wash- ington to consult with President Polk and Senators* Benton and Douglas, those warm champions of Oregon, as to the proper course to pui-sut. By them he was advised to prepare a memorial to be presented to Congress, setting forth the condition and needs of the l)eople rt'hom he represented. This he did, and the document was p^ esentetl to the Senate by Mr Benton and was printed for the use of both branches of Congress. There was still another representative of the people of Oregon at Wa-sbington that session of Congi'ess — one with even better credential^ than Mr. Thornton. Tliis was Joseph L. Meek, the mountairjit^ei" and ti*apper, who had taken such a prominent part in organizing the Provisional Government. When, about six weeks after the departure of Judge Thornton, the massacre of Whitman at Waiilatpu plunged the settlers into a state of mingled grief and alarm, it was thought necessary to dispatch a messenger at once to Washington to impart the intelligence, impress the authorities with the precarious situation of the colony, and appeal for protection. Winter had set in with all its rigors in the mountains. The terrible journey made at that season six years before by Dr. Whitman, on his patriotic mission, the same person whose martyrdom now ren- dered a second journey necessary, was fresh in the minds of all, and appalled the stoutest heart. Mr. Thornton had taken ihe longer, but safer, route by sea, but time was too precious, too much was at staJke, to admit of the delay such a journey would impose, even if d;te veseel were at hand to afiord the means. Notihing but OREGON BECOMES AN ORGANIZED TERRITORY. 323 regon setter the iii-t in eeks tman and nee to with ction. rrible an, on IV ren- of all, n the much mpose, ig but a trip across the thousands of miles of suow-bound mountains, plains and deserts, would be of any avail. In the emergency all turned to Joseph L. Meek as the one man in their midst whose intrepid courage, gi'eat powers of physical endurance, long experience in mountain life and familiarity with the routes of travel and Indian tribes to be encountered, rendered him capable of undertaking the task with a good prospect of success. Unhesitatingly he accepted the mission, resigned his seat in the Legislature, received his cre- dentials as a delegate from that body, and set out on the fourth of January for Washington, accompanied by John Owens and George Ebbetts, wlio decided to go with him and avail themselves of his services as guide and director. At The Dalles thej" '"ere forced to delay several weeks until the arrival of the Oregon volu. teers I'endered it safe for them to proceed, since the whole upper country was overrun by hostile Indians. They accompanied tlie troops to Waiilatpu, where Meek had the mournful satisfaction of assisting in the burial of the victims of Cay- use treachery, among whom was his own daughter, and then were escorted by a company of troops to the base of the Blue Mountains, where they finally entered upon their long and solitary journey. By avoiding the Indians as much as possible, and whenever encountered by them representing themseh'es as Hudson's Bay Company men, they reached Fort Boise in safety. Here two of four new volunteers for the journey bectmie discouraged and de- cided to remain. The other ^we travelers pushed on to Fort Hall, saving themselves from the clutches of the Bannacks only by Meek's experience in dealing with savages. It is needless to recount the many hardships they endured, the sleepless nights and diuner- If'ss days, the accidents, dangers, fatigues, narrow escapes from liostile Indians and the thousand discomforts and misadventures to which they were subjected. It is sufficient to say through all these they passed in safety, never forgetting for an instant the impera- tive necessity for haste, and never flinching from the trials that lay in their pathway. The hearty invitation to spend a few weeks here or there in the few places where they encountered friends and com- fortable quarters, was resolutely declined, and with only sudi delay us was absolutely required, they plunged again into the snowy mountain passes with their faces resolutely set towards the rising 324 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. sun. They reached St. Joseph in but little more than two months after leaving the Willamette Valley, having made the quickest trip across the continent that had yet been accomplished at any season of the year. Meek was now reduced to most embarassing straits. Dressed in buckskin and blanket clothes and wolf skin cap, ragged and dirty in the extreme, beard and hair long and unkempt, with- out money or friends, how to get to Washington or how to conduct himself when there, were perplexing questions. lie decided that the best way to accomplish his purpose was to be "Jo Meek." By assuming an air of great importance at one time, making a clown of himself at another, and generally interesting every one he met in himself and his mission, he succeeding in reaching Washington only a week or two later than Judge Thornton, though his news from Oregon was three months fresher. Meek was a relative of the President, and was well cared for during his stay in the Capital City. The intelligence brought by him, as well as his individual efforts, did much to aid Mr. Thornton and the friends of Oregon in Congress in securing the desired leg'slatiou. In addition to the memorial. Judge Thornton drafted a bill for organizing a Territorial Government, which was introduced and placed up <n its passage. This bill contained a clause prohibiting slavery, and for this reason was as objectionable to the slaveholding force in Congress as had been the previous one. Under the lead of Senators Jefferson Davis and John C. Calhoun, this wing of the National Legislature made a vigorous onslaught upon the bill, and fought its progress step by step with unabated determination, resorting to all the legislative tactics known, to so delay its consid- eration that it could not be finally passed by the hour of noon on the fourteenth of August, the time fixed by joint resolution for the close of that session of Congress. The contest during the last two days of the session was exciting in the extreme, and the feeling in- tense throughout the Union. The friends of the bill had decided upon a policy of "masterly inactivity," refraining entirely fi'om debate and yielding the floor absolutely to the "filibusters," who were therefore much distressed for means to consume the slowly passing hours. Though silent in speech they were constantly present in force to prevent the opposition from gaining time by an adjuurumeut. The bill was then on its second passage in the Sen- OREGON BECOMES AN ORGANIZED TERRITORY. m$ ate, for the purpose of concurrence with amendments which had been added by the House. On Saturday morning, August 12, the managers of the bill decided to prevent an adjournment until it had been disposed of, having a sufficient majority to pass it. The story of that memorable contest is thus told by Mr. Thornton, who sat throughout the scene an earnest spectator : — I re-entered the Senate Chamber with the deepest feelings of solicitude, and yet liopeful because of the assurances which had been given to nie by the gentleman I have named [Douglas, Benton and Hale.] I soon saw, however, that Calhoun and Butler, of Houtli Carolina ; Davis and Foote, of Mississippi ; and Hunter and Mason, of Virginia, as leaders of the opposition, had girded up their loins and Ijuckled on their armor for tlio battle. When I explain a little the reader will not be surprised that I felt very nervous. The bill had previously been in the Senate and having pas.sed went down to the House where it was amended, and now it had come back for concurrence. The debate when the bill was lirst in the Senate was one of thrilling inter(!st. " Tliere were giants in those days," and the Held on which they fought and measured strength with each other was one in which no man could be at a loss to find a foe- man worthy of his steel, since here might be encountered such mightj' men as Douglas and Benton, Webster, Calhoun and Corwin. The last named gentleman having gotten the Hoor in the debate on tlie Oregon bill, the Senate adjourned. In this manner it became known at once throughout the city that Mr. Corwin would on the next day, after tlie preliminary business of the morning hour had been disposed of, address the Senate on that bill— the provision in it taken from the ordinance of 1787, prohiliiting shivery being the point of his departure, and human rights the subject of his address. At an early hour the gallery was literally i)acked full of the elite and beauty of the capital, most of them being brought hither by an unconquer- able desire to witness the triumph of right over wrong and of reason over passion which they felt sure would be achieved by their favorite orator's burning words consuming to ashes the sophisms relied upon by the advocates of slavery to defend the most gigantic evil that ever cursed a nation or stained its escutcheon. On the floor of the Senate were diplomatic representatives from every Court in Europe, already imi)atient to drink in the Inspiration of the wonderful eloquence of an orator who liad no equal in some respects and no superior in any. The preliminary business of the morning hour having been hurried through, Mr. Corwin, of Ohio, rose to his feet ; and during two hours commencing with his saying "Mr. President," and ending with the close of his wonderful address, no other sound was heard save occasionally that of one who seemed to catch at his ureath, and no movement could be seen save in the varying muscles of the faces of the listening hearers as the orator's matchless manner, melodious voice, and ready command of most apt language alternately melted the heart into pity or kindled it into resentment, while, with inimitable skill and unequaled power, he portrayed " the sum of all villainies." This description of the effects of the address does not of course appiy to such of his hearers as were the advocates of "the patriarchal Institution." The faces of these seemed at times to be as much blanched with fear as would that of a nervous woman on being suddenly confronted by a death's head. At o*her times the face was equally white, yet the compressed lips, and the flashing eye and a peculiar ex- pression of the countenance as clearly as language could speak, showed that the heart was a burning volcano of the most fiery passions in the throes of a terrible eruption. 326 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. When Mr. Corwin closed his lueinorable speech, there seemed to be quite an in- terval before those who heard gained their self-recollection, and a motion was made for the adjournment of the Senate. As, with others, I was slowly and thoughtfully retiring. Father Hiohie, the most venerable journalist in the United States, a life- long advocate of slavery, and at that time editor of the government organ, nervously laid his hand upon my shoulder, and with lips as white as paper and ((uivcring with emotion, he said: "A few speeches such as that would sever the bonds of this Union!" With such a scene as this fresli in my memory, the reader will not he surprised if on Saturday morning, tlie 12th of August, 1848, I felt, after my interview with Mr. Benton, Mr. Douglas and Mr. Hale, anxious for the results of the day's pro- ceedings on the bill returned for concurrence in the amendments made in the House. The friends of the bill, led by Mr. Benton, having taken their position, waiteil calmly for the onset of their adversaries, who spent Saturday until the usual hour of adjournment in skirmishing in force, as if feeling the strength of their op|x)- nents. When the motion was made at the usual time in the afternoon for adjourn- ment, the friends of the bill came pouring oiit of the retiring rooms, and on coming inside the bar they voted No with very marked emphasis. I ought, perhaps to ex- plain that when many of the friends of the Oregon bill went into this room to rest upon lounges, and to smoke and chat and tell anecdotes, they left behind a trusty cori>s to oliserve the niovciiients of the enemy, and through a vigilant page stationed at the door to give notice when it was necessary, to rise and rush inside the bar to vote No on all motions for adjournment. This state of affairs continued until after night when Judge Butler, of South Carolina, being the colleague of Mr. Calhoun, resorted to a sort of legislative fili- bustering with a view to thrusting aside the Oregon bill, under a motion to go into executive session for the purj.ose of enquiring into the conduct of Mr. Benton, who, he alleged, had communicated to Dr. Wallace, tlie reporter of the New York Herald, sonje things that had been said and done in secret session. During his remarks, Judge Butler diaracterized Mr. Benton's conduct as ueing "(/(V/owoz-afe/c." This word had only been i)ronounced when Mr. Benton si)rang to his feet in great anger, and advancing rapidly toward Judge Butler with his clenched list and violently gesticulating, said: "Voulie, sir! You lie!! I cram the lie down your throat !! I" Both men wore long hair that age had made as white as wool, and yet they were only kept from viv.lence on the tloor of the Senate Chamber by (Jen. Dix, of New York, Mason, of Virginia, and others, who, by placing themselves lietween the venerable Senators, prevented them from coming to blows. Thus restrained. Judge Butler said to Mr. Benton in a very loud and angry tone, " 1 will see you, sir, at another time and place." Mr. Benton inunediately rejoined in great heat, "Yes, sir, you can see me at any other time and in any other place; but you and j'our friends will take notice that when I tight, I fight for a funeral." Order being at length restored, the vote was taken on Judge Butler's motion to go into executive session, and the real object of the motion being seen to be the de- feat of the Oregon bill through the consumption of time, it was lost. Gen. Foote, the colleague of JefT. Davis, then arose and in a drawling tone, as- sumed for the occasion, said his powers of endurance he believed would enable him to continue his address to tlie Senate until Monday, 12 o'clock M., and alth'High he could not promise to say much on the subject of the Oregon bill, he could not doubt that he would be able to interest and greatly edify distinguished Senators. The friends of the bill, seeing what was before them, posted a page in the doorway open- ing into one of the retiring rooms, and then, after detailing a few of their number to keep watch and ward on the floor of the Senate, withdrew into the room of which OREGON BECOMES AN OKGANIZED TERRITORY, 327 I have spoken to chat and tell anecdotes and to drink wine, or, perhaps, something even much 8tronji;er, and thus to wear away the slowly and heavily passing hours of that memorable Saturday night. Soon groat clouds of smoke fllk'd thf room, and from it issued the sound of the chink of glasses aJul of loud conversation, almost drowning the eloquence of the Misslssip])! Senator as he repeated the l$il)le story of the cosmogony of the world, the creation of man, tlie taking from his side the rib from which Eve was made, her talking with the " snake," us he called the Kvil One, the fall of man, etc., etc. The galleries were soon deserted. Many of tlio aged Senators piostrated themselves upon the sofas in one of the retiring rooms, and 8luml)ered soundly, while " thought^i that breathed and words that burned " fell in glowing elo(|Ucnce from the lips of the Mississippi Senator, as he continued thus to instruct and edify the few watching friends of the bill, who, notwithstanding the weight of seventy winters pressed heavily upon some of them, were as wide awake as the youngest, and they sat firm and erect in their seats, watching witli lynx eyes every movement of the adversaries of the bill. At intervals of about one hour, the speaker would yield the Hoor to a motion for adjournment, coming from the opposition. Then the sentinel j)age at the door would give notice to the waking Senators in the retiring room, and these would im" mediately arouse the slumbering Senators, and all would then rush pell-mell through the doorway, and when the inside of the bar was reached, would vote No with a thundering emphasis. It liai)pened, however, on more occasions than one, that a sleeping Senator, not yet quite awake, even after getting inside the bar, voted "aye," then "nay," and then "aye," and finally " nay " again, to the great amusement of those who were sufficiently wide awake to see where the laugh came in. Occasionally southern Senators toward Sunday morning relieved Gen. Foote by short, dull 8])eeche9, to which the friends of the bill vouchsafed no answer ; so that Mr. Calhoun and his pro-slavery subordinates had things for the mo.st part all their own way until Sabbath morning, August 13th, 1848, at about 8 o'clock, when the leading opponents of the bill collected together in a knot, and after conversing together a short time in an under tone, the Mississippi Senator, who had been so very edifying and entertaining during tlie night, said that no further opposition would be made to taking a vote on the bill. The ayes and nayes were then called and the bill pa.ssed. President Polk affixed his signtiture to the bill within a few hours after its jiassage. To have the Territorial Government fully organized before the expiration of his term of office on the fourth of the succeeding March, was earnestly desired by him, in view of the circumstances attending his election. He appointed Meek the United States Marshal of the new Territory, and delegated him to convey the Governor's commission to General* Joseph Lane, then residing in Indiana and unaware of the duty about to be imposed upon him, for such, under the circumstances, it really was. With that promptness of decision and energy of action so characteristic of him — ({ualities which won him the title of the " Marion of the Mexican War" — General Lane accepted the commission without hesitation, and in three days had disposed of his property, wound 828 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. up his business afFjiirs, and begun his journey to the far-off wilds of Oregon. A small detachment of troops escorted the Governor and Mai'shal, and after a journey of six months, by the way of Mexico and Arizona, seven only of them reached San Francisco, two hav- ing died and the others succumbed to the allurements of the new gold fields of the Sierras. These seven were Governor Lane, Marshal Meek, Lieutenant Hawkins, Surgeon Hayden, and three enlisted men. At San Francisco they took passage on the schooner Jean net te, and reacli(>d the Columbia after a rough passage of eighteen days. Ascending the Colunil>ia and Willamette in small boats, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles, they de1)arked at Oregon City on the second of March, 184:^>. The following day Governor Lane issued a proclamation and assumed the duties of his office, having succeeded in instituting the (Tovernment just one day prior to the close of President Polk's administration. Other officers of the Territory did not arrive till several months later. The fol- lowing is a roster of the first offioei's of the Territoi-ial Government, and those of the Provisional Government at the time of its dissolu- tion : — PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. Governor, George Abernethy ; Secretary, S. M. Holderness ; Treasurer, John H. Couch ; Auditor, Geo. AV. Bell (Public Ac- counts), Theophilus McGruder (Territorial); Supreme Judge, J. Quinn Thornton ; Circuit Judge, Alonzo A. Skinner ; Marshal, H. M. Knighton. TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT. ' ' Governor, Joseph Lane; Secretary, Kintzing Pritchett; Treasurer, *James Taylor ; Auditor, *B. Gervais ; Chief Justice, William C. Bryant ; Associate J ustices, O. C. Pratt, P. H. Burnett ; Marshal, Joseph Meek ; Superintendent of Schools, *Jas. McBride; Librarian, *W. T. Matlock ; Territorial Printer, *Wilson Blain ; Commis- sioner of Cayuse War Claims, *Alonzo A. Skinner. One of the first acts of Governor Lane was to appoint marshals to take the census, as provided in the organic act. The following table shows the population as thus ascertained : — 'Appointed by Legislature, September X, 184B. '...■-■ OREGON BECOMES AN ORGANIZED TERKITORY. 320 less ; Ac- J. H. 1" Males 21 years aud over. Females of all ages. Foreigners. Total number of citizens. ■s a £ . COUNTIES. MalesuMder 21 years. Males 21 and over. Females of all ages. 1 (jlackumas 401 340 4(i') 49 394 337 39 2! 15 3fl0 293 458 100 492 327 33 269 229 22 585 468 647 75 657 509 37 359 370 20 4 5 3 1 2 12 2;< 94 3 8 1 31 39 5 8 13 4 4 12 1370 1107 I'. 70 224 1353 1173 109 923 870 80 17 35 112 3 15 1 30 79 1393 Tualatin 1142 Chtvnipoeg 1082 fy'latson Ol)y Yanihill 1308 Polk 1174 Xjewis 14") Linn 923 Benton Vancouver 870 159 Total 2001 2523 3627 15 211 46 8795 298 1 9083 While Thornton and Meek were representing the people at Washington, an event occurred tliat in a few years wrought a marvelous change on the Pacific Coast. Captain John A. Sutter, a S^\^SH, had come to Oregon in 18158 and the following year gone to California, where he founded a settlement on the site of the present City of Sacramento, which he named " New Helvetia," though it was known far and wide as "Sutter's Fort." In the Oregon immi- gration of 1844 was James W. Marshall, who went to California the following year and entered the employ of Captain Sutter. In the fall of 1847 Marshall and Sutter entered into a partnership to do a saw-mill business, and Marshall went up into the Sierra Nevada Mountains and selected a location for the mill at Coloma, a place on the South Fork of the American Eiver. It was on the nineteenth of January, 1848, that Marshall discovered gold in the tailrace of the mill. As soon as this news was spread throughout California, nearly every able-bodied man hastened to Coloma, work of every kind being abandoned and much pr ^ "ly sacrificed. The excitement was intense. The news of Marshall's wonderful dis- covery was carried East by the various routes of travel, and hun- dreds of emigrants learned of it while slowly plodding along on the Oregon trail, and were thus induced to change their destination to California. For several years thereafter ov^erland emigration was almost exclusively to the gold fields of California. The intelli- gence did not reach Oregon till August, seven months after the discovery. There were then no regular means of communication 330 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. hetvv<'«'ii tilt' SiuTiiiucnto N'alh'V ami the Willjiiiietti'. Kvt*ry year a few j»f(»j»I»^ followed the old Hudson's Hay Coiiipaiiy trail, some one way and some the other, and uceasionally coastinir or other vessels eani<' to the Columbia from San Fi'aneisiit; I tut the exeite- ment of the ifold diseovery prevented the news from reaehini; Oregon hy either of these I'outes, until it was tinally brought by a vessel which came foi' a cargo of 5»u])j)lies foi- the San Fruneisco market. The t-lTeet produced upon such an a<lventurous class as were the early jtioneers, can well be imagined. There wfus at once a rush for California, chiefly overland, as v»'s,sels were scarce, and it seemed as though Oregon wouhl become depojtulated. Hut this was only temporary. Family and busines.s ties were sti-ong I'liough to hold back many and to hasten the return of otiiers. Not only was Oregon not depopulated, but she foiuid in Califoi-nia tlie tiixt outside mai'ket for hei- jtroduots she had ever enjoyed. It was for her the beginning of actmd prosperity. Hesides the gold dust l)rought back by retiu'iiing miners, California gold poi into Ore- gon in a jterfect .stream, in exchange for grain, flour, ve !es, beef, bacon, and food products of all kinds. Minei-s pushed fiirthei- noi'th every yt'ar, until, in isal, they crossed the line into Southern Ore- gon, and discovered ricii diggings. After the first excitement sub- sided, emigrati()n again turned in the direction of Oregtm, while great numbers, aban<lonnig the gold Helds. came noith to settle in the beautiful valley of the Willamette. The scarcity of money had always been a serious evil, increasing yearly with the population. When, in the winter of 184H-J>, gold <lust began to arrive from Califoi'uia, the material foi- such a tnedium was at hand; but, thouirh the cjttld <lust was worth from sixteen to eighteen dollars an ounce, returning miners could obtain bnt eleven dollars for it, while much of it was lost in jifussing from hand t(» hand. The Legislature f)romptly [)assed an act for the " assaying, melting and coining of gold,'' but the termination of the Provisional Government liy the arrival of (tovernor Lane, rendei-ed the statute nugatory. Private enteiprise ste])ped to the front and supplied the want by issuing what is known as " beaver money," somewhat after the mann(M' in which the "gold slugs" of Califoi' nia were issued. These coins were of five and ten dollar denomi- nations, bearing on the obverse side the figure of a beaver, above siii<r .1(1 I :i oni tain •om the. the eved and ORJCOON HK((iMKS A.N OlJ(JAMZKl> TKUKITORV. ;$.'} 1 which were tlu- letters " K. M. T. A. \V. II. C. S.,'' ami l>eiit'ath " ( ). T., 1S41).'" Oil the reverse side was " Ore<j()ii F^xeliaui'e Com- |>any, l.'?0 (rraiiis Nati\e (Jold, f) D," or " 10 j)wts., 20 ifruins, 10 1>." Tlie initial letters were those of the p'lltlellien e(»ni|>osiii<i; the coiiipaiiy Killtoiirn, MaijriKlef, Tnyloi", Abernethy, Wilson, Rec- tor, ('aiii)tl»ell and Smith. The workiiiaiiship on the coin was (iuit»' creditable. The dies were made hy Hamilton CftJupliell, and t!ie press and rollin>; machinery hy William Uectoi'. When money he- came more pleiitifid, tiie heaver coins ipiickly disa^tpcared from cir- culation, since they contained ahout eii:iit per cent, more i;old than the national coins, and are now only lo he found as mementoes in the possession of pioneers, in cahinets or amonj;' the collections of numismatoloirists. Xo one was evei- pro.secuted foi- this infriiisxe- nient of the constitutional pi'ohihition of the coining of money by State (to\ t'l-nments or individn ils. * t 11 CHAPTER XX. OREGON AS A TERRITORY. Organization of the Territorial Government — First Legislature — Towns ill Oregon in 1850 — A Military Einsode — John P. Gaines Succeeds General Lane as Governor — Lnharmony between Democratic L^egisla- ture and Whig Officers — Thrre JVewspapers Enter the I^ield — The Steamer '''•Lot Whitcomh^''— Oregon City and Salem Contest for the Capital — Wreck of the -'■ General Warren'''' — Indian Troubles in 1851-2-3 — George L. Curry becomes Governor — Effortx to Form a Stale Constitution --Colville Mines — Indian War of 1855-6 — Polit- ical CoirqjUcations — Fraser River Exc'Uement— Oregon Admitted to the Union. OEEGON rcniained in the T'.n-ritori: 1 state for ten years, sufFer- inL' all the e\'ils of partisan government and olitical strife. The people early aspired to the rights and dignity of statehood, and the (piestion of framing a constitution was ever present in pol- itics. The adjoining State of California was av.;uitted into the Union nnder phenomenal conditions, without passing through the Territorial stage, and this did much to render the people of Oregon discontented with a Territoi-ial government. But the most prolific cause of discontent was- the length of time required to communicate with the seat of government at Washington. All laws pa^ised by the Legislature \\ere subject to disai)[n"oval l)y (-ongress, and it took several months to learn wliether an act would not be thus rendered void. The same delay occurred in filling official vacancies, in im- parting instructions for the guidance of officers, and in transacting all business requiring communication between the Territorial author- ities and those at AVashington. It was certainly an unwieldy and cumbersome form of government, and the people necessarily found it irksome and repulsive. to^ St cu ett an 111 OREGON AS A TERRITORY. 333 1 Governor Lane called an election for the sixth of June, 1849, to choosf a Delegate to Congress and members of the Territorial Leg- islature, The total vote cast for Delegate was l'-43, of which Sam- uel R. Thurston received 470; Columbia Lancaster, 321; James W. Nesraith, 104; Joseph L. Meek, 40; J. S. Griffin, 8. The appor- tionment of Councilmen and llepresentatives was made by the Gov- ernor in his proclamation. The names of the gentlemen elected to the first Territorial Legislature were as follows: Council — W. Blain, Tualatin; W. W. Buck, Clackamas; 8. Parker, Clackamas and Chanipoeg; W. Shannon, Champoeg; S. F. McKean, Clatsop, Lewis and Vancouver; J. B. Graves, Yamhill; W. Maley, Linn; N. Ford, Polk; L. A. Humphrey, Benton. Representatives — D. Hill and W. M. King, Tualatin; A. L. Lovejoy, J. D. Holman and Gabriel Walling, Clackanuis; J. W. Grim, W. W. Chapman and W. T. Matlock, Champoeg; A. J. Hembree, 11. C. Kinney and J. B. Walling, Yamhill; J. Dunlap and J. Conser, Linn; H. N. ^'. Holmes and S. Burch, Polk; M. T. Simmons, Lewis, Vancouver and Clatsop; J. L. Mulkey and G. B. Smith, J3ent()n. The Legislature asseni])led at Oregon City, July 10, 1849, and held a l)rief session, in which they apportioned their future mem- bership; changed the names of Champoeg, Tualiitin and Vancouver counties to "Marion," "Washington," and "Clarke," respectively; (U'cided what officers the various counties should have, and provided for their election the following' October, and divided the Territory into three judicial districts. In October the county elections were held and the officers chosen qualified immediately. This Wiw the last step in the comjdete organi^iation of the government under the Oregon Bill. The yar ISoO opened auspi lously for Oregon. A custom house had bt'cn established at A-Loria, and regular steamer comnui- nication opened ))et\veen the accessil)le ports on the Willamette and San Francisco. Oregon contained then a do/en aspiring towns — Astoria, St. Helens, Milton (one and one-half miles above St. Helens), Portland, Milwaukie, Oregon City, Champoeg, Syra- c»ise, Alban\, Marysville (Corvallis), Cincinnati, Hill^l.ro, Lafay- ette, Salem, Lexington (on Clatsop Plains). Between Milwaukie and Portland there was much rivalry, eacrh aspiring to be the head wf pc!'uianfcnt navigation for ocean steamers; and this was shared I l:i 334 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY. at times hy St. Helens, as well as other ambitious points which never acquired mucli greater dignity than a mere name. It was found that navigation to Milwaukie was not practicable in low-water season, and even Portland was considered as too far up at one time, owing to the troublesome bar at Swan Island. The steamship com- pany decided to make St. Helens, or Columbia City (a new town below the mouth of the Willamette), the terminus, ])ut were quickly brought back to Portland by a movement on the part of the mer- chants of that city to establish an opposition line. Since then, with but one e.vce^^tion, the ocean steamship terminus has remained con- stantly at the city of Poi-tland. The military headquarters were at Oregon City in 1849-50, and at that point the greatei' portion of the First Mounted Rifles were stationed, the remainder taking post at N^mcouver, Astoria and on Puget Sound. The regiment was commanded by (Colonel Loring, afterwards txeneral, who achieved a reputation in Egypt, as Loring Pasha. Early in the spring of 1850, a majoi'ity of the men suc- cum]>ed to the seductive influence of the gold excitement and deserted. Fully four hundred of them started foi- the Califoi-nia mines, and at Eugene City fortified themselves so that the soldiers and citizens who pursued them coidd not effect their captiu'e. They then started soutii in small bands. Governor Lane was appealed to by the commanding officer, and hastily collecting a company of volun- teers he ])Ui'sued and o\'ertook a body of them in Rogue River Val- ley, who surrendered to him without resistance. Of the four hundred desertei^s, two hundred and sixty were thus captured, the remainder succeeding in i-eaching California and losing themselves among the miners. In April, IHoO, (Tovernoi- liane ivceived notification that he had l)een removed by the Whig President, Taylor, and Major John P. Gaines apj>ointed in his place on the second of the previous October. ( )n the twenty-seventh of May, he wrote to the Secretary of War that he was about to start for Rogue River, to make a treaty with the Indians of that region, which he hoped to conclude by the eighteenth of June, and this date he fixed as the termination of his official duties. The new (rc^vernor had not yet arrived, and (xov. Lane set out inmiediately. He came to an amicable understanding with this turl)ulent tribe, and then j)assed into California to try his OREGON AS A TERRITORY. 335 fortune in the nimew. It wsis during this time that the Cayuse hos- tages were tried and executed at Oi-egun City, the uncertainty a-s to whether he was still in Oregon or not pi'eventing the Secretary from jissuming an} authorit}'. The general election for county officers and nusmbei's of the L«'g- islature was held in June. The new Tei'i-itorial officers ari'ived in August, 8eptem))er, October and November — Governor (laines assuming his duties on the nineteenth of Scj)t('mber, l)eing careful, however, to draw his salary fi'om the date of his ai»poinf nient, nearly a year befoiv. The other new officials wer*^: Edward Uaniilttui, Secretary-; John McLean and William Strong, Judges; Amor\ JIol- br«)ok, United States Attorney; John Adair, Collector <»f Custon.s; Henry II. Spalding, Indian Agent; Joseph L. Meek retained the office of Marshal. The Legislature assend>led in December; being strongly Democratic in its composition, a want of harmony was at once developed between it and tlie Whig Territorial officers. In some respects this was the most im[»ortant legislative session ever held in Oreg«>n. Hut little had been accomplished the previous year, and it devolved u[)on this session to give Oregon a code *>f laws, and legislate for the radical!) new state of aifairs brought about by a Territorial form uovernment, and the great increase in population and the sud<h'ii < .niticial awakening. It \>as<om- |)ose(l of the leading and representative men of the Territory, and ably perfoi'med its function. Three newspapers spi-ang into being in ihe winter <>f 1<S5()-51. On the twenty -ninth of Novend)er, IS.lo, the first nund«" of the Wcs/i'rn S/ar ',{])\H'HVvd at Milwaukie, then a forii i(Uibh' rival of Portland for metropolitan hon«»rs. Lot Whitcoiub was the pub- lisher, .lohn Oi'vis A\'aterman the editor, and Waterman and W. D. Carter the printers. On the fourth of December, Thorn J. Dryer began the publication of the On'jfofimn at Portland . prospectus for a paper at Oregon City had >)een iss\ied by Ivussell the fall before, also by Asahel Bush, but as they had no material they were compelled to delay publication. Mr. Bush was elected Public Printer by the Legislature, notwithstanding the fact that he was utterly without facilities for <lischarging the duties of the offi(!e, while the S/ar and Onj^oiiiaii were ignored. In March his material arrived, and the Hrst number of the Sla/esiffan was issued at Oregon •'-I in \f A 336 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. City. Mr. Bu.sh was a representative Democrat, and the Statesman for yeaiN. while un(hr hits control, vvas the mouthpiece and official organ of the dominant faction of the Democratic party. The Star was also Democratic, but did not enjoy such a generous proportion of the "loav«-s and fishes" as did the official organ. The Oregonian was a Whig paper of the most pronounced type, and Mr. Dryer was a man »»f strong prejudice^i, energetic character and fiery dispo- sition. He hatl l)ut one standard of measiu'ement — political opin- ion. Everything that savored of Whiggery was good, while any- thing in the lejist tainted with Democracy was vile. The papers were full of politics and personal abuse, based upon political con- duct — the Ongonian and Statesman presenting the most marked antagonism. It was then the " Oregon style " of journalism had its l>irth. and Nourished like the product of the mustard seed for a series of veal's. Argument gave Avay to invective; intelligent dis- cussion of jwlitical affairs there was none; the presentation of the most trivial piece of news was done in such a manner that its truth vvas made of secondary importance to its political effect, and even the most common oi the social amenities were lost in the whirlpool of political animosity. Whatever may })e said of other things as compareil with juoneer days, there has cei'tainly ])eeu a vast and most gratifying improvement in the chai'acter of Oregon journalism. In the fall «»f 1S50, Lot Whitcomb l)egan, at Milwaukie, the construction of a snuill steamer to ply upon the AVillamette and Columbia, the pioneer of the great fleet which, in later years, bore the whole inland conmierce of this I'egion. A pul)lic met'ting wjis held in the hall of the House of Representatives at Oregon City, early in December, at wliidi it was decided to name the steamer the "■ Lot Whitcomb of Oregon,"' and a stand of colors was presented to the enterprising owner. On ('hristmas day the little craft wjus laiuiche<], amid the peal of cannon and the cheei-s of a great crowd of people who had jissembled to witness the event, Governcn* (ilaines formalh christenins her as above. This was followed by a strand ball in the evening. When the salute was fired. Captain Frederick Morse, of the schooner Merchantman^ which was then in port, was killed by the bursting of a cannon The steamer, a month later, made a trial trip, with a company of invit*^! guests, to A'ancouver and Astoria. She then took li< i- place as a passenger and freight OREGON AS A TERRITORY. X\7 boat, and did excellent service. Captain Whitcoml) retired fi*om the S^ar, and in June, 1851, Waterman tfe Carter moved it to Port- land, and changed its name to the Oregon Weekly Tifues, being led to take this step by the plainly apparent fact that Portland was the coming metropolis of Oregon. On the ninth of April, 1851, Samuel R. Thurston, Delegate to Congress, while on his way V)acl< to Oregon, died on board the steamer California, while between Panama and Acapulco, antl was biu'ied at the latter place. The news reached Oregon a few weeks latei" — a month prior to the general election at which his successor was to be elected — and caused a general expression of sorrow from the people. At its next session the Legislature bestowed his name upon a county north of the Columbia River, now a portion of Wash- ington Territory, and later defrayed the expense of bringing his body to Oregon for burial. The general election was held on the second of June, and General Lane, who had returned from the mines of Northern California, l)ecame the Democratic candidate for Dele- gate to Congress. He received 2,0i)3 votes, while only 548 were cast for William H. AVillson, his Whig opponent. There were other things than politics to interest the people in 1851 and 1852. Early in 1851, gold was discovered in Southern Oregon; several thousands of miners crowded into the diggings on the tributaries of Rogue River, and the town of Jacksonville sprang suddenly into existence. This opened a new market for Oregon products, and added greatly to the prosperity of the Willamette Valley. In an effort to find a suital)le seaport for a base of sup- plies for the new mines, the llmp(iua River was entered and several towns laid out, the most important of which was Scottsl)urg. The following year Douglas and Jackson counties were oigani/.ed, from which Coos, Curry and Josephine were, in later years, cut off. The mines in Northern California, at Yreka (tlien called Shasta Butte City), and along Klamath and Scott rivers, also drew heavily upon the Willamette Valley for sujtpoit. The discovery of gold in the Rogue River region led to the innnediate occupation of choice loca- tions in the valley by farmers, who raised hay, grain and vegetables for the mines. Quite a number of these h)catioris were nuide in 1851, and in two or three years the best piirt of the valley was occupied. In the Umi>(T[ua region, also, settlements, which were but ! 11 338 UISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. few prior to 1850, began to be more numerous, and in a few years (juite a population was found in Southern Oregon, exclusive of those <'ngaged in mining. The Indians of Rogue River Valley had shown a hostile spirit ever since the first Americans passt^d through their country, as has i)een shown in the narrative of se\'eral earl}- «!\'ents, and numei-ous collisions occurred between them and parties passing to and fi-o l)etAveen the mines and the Willamette Valley; several men were killed in this way, and many pack an<l saddle animals stolen. Brevet ]\Iajor (afterwards General) Phil. Kearney, while passing through that region, on his way fi'om Vancouver to Benicia, with two comj)anies of troops, was appealed to for aid in punishing the Indians. They came upon the savages on the bank of the river ten miles above Table Rock. Captain AValker took liis company of infantrymen across the river, to get in the rear of the enemy, while Captain Stewart dismounted his dragoons and made an attack upon the raucheria. The Indians fled with the loss of several of their iuim])er. The only casualty on the part of the troops was the death of Captain Ste\\'art, a gallant officer who had won distinction in the Mexican AN ar, who ^\ as shot with an arrow by a wounded Indian after the battle was over. Later in the day a more severe battle wa^ fought. Kearney was soon joined l)y Major Alvord, who, witli a military escort, was engaged in surveying a route for a military road through Southei-n Oregon. AA^ith him was Jesse Applegate. (General Lane happened to be passing through the coiuitry with a number of others, and ujwn hearing the news at once hastened to the aid of the military. The united force of soldiers and civilians then set out in pursuit of the sa^•ages. In a short time they came upon a party of them, who fled upon being charged, and escaped in the chaparral, leaving one of their number dead on the ground. Late in the evening another band was encountered and several were wounded, while twelve women and children were captured. The next day a long march revealed no enemy. The troops then con- tinued their march south, and the civilians returned to their homes and mines, or resumed their uninterrupted journeys. Soon after- wards Governor Gaines went to Rogue River Valley and negotiated a treaty with a portion of the Indians, assigning them a reservation north of the river. Soon afterwards Dr. Anaon Dart was designated OREGON AS A TEURITOHY. 330 Superintendent of Indian Affairs by the President, and he appointed A. A. Skinner agent for the Indians of that region. In spite of the treaty, trouble continued to arista between the incoming setth'rs and the native proprietors. A detaclinient of tro()])s was stationed at Port Orford, under the impression that it was tlie nearest practica- ble route to the valley, though it was soon discovered that commu- nication between those two points was difficult and hazai'dons. There had ))een trouble at Port Orford, and a party of men had been besieged on Battle Rock in that harboi-. An exjdoring expe. dition from Rogue River Valley to the coast, headed b}' W. G. T' Vault, had met with disaster; consequently, Lieutenant-Colonel Casey led a detachment of troops up Coquille River, and severely punished the hostile Indians. Early in the summer of 1852, the Rogue River Indians began to give signs of an intention to go on the war path, and Agent Skin- ner arranged for a peace talk to settle all cause of grievance. A company of men, conimanded by J. K. Lamerick, went to the Big Bend, the scene of the proposed (conference. There they met a small company, under Judge Elijah Steele, wlu) had come over fi-om Yreka in search of two Indian murderers. During the progress of the council a fight began and thirteen Indians were killed. The next day, aiter a brief conflict, the Indians (expressed a desire to make peace, and it was agreed that hostilities should cease. A few weeks later the Modocs begran massacring emigrants who were passing through their country around Tule Lake. Two companies from Yreka, under Charles McDermit and Ben Wriglit, and one from Jacksonville, under John E. Ross, hastened to the scene of difficulty, buried the mangled bodies of two score emigi'ants, guarded the incoming trains, and severely chastised the savages. In the fall of 1852 it was decided to establish a military post for the protec- tion of Northern California aui^ Southern Oregon. Major Fitz- gerald accordingly built Fort Jones, in Scott Valley, and gai'risoned it with his company of dragoons. He was soon succeeded in com- mand by Captain B. R. Alden. The subsequent hostilities in that regi(m are related in another cliaptei-. On the thirty-first of Januar}, 1852, the steamer General If'ar- ren was wrecked at the mouth of the Columbia River. She sailed from Astoria for San Francisco on the twenty-eighth of January, : II I t; 340 niSTOKY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLEY. find was safely taken to sea by the })ai' pilot, Captain (Teorge Flavel. On the second clay out she niet with heavy weather and began to make water so alarmingly that the captain, Charles TlK)mj>s(>n, put about f»»r the pur]iose of returning to Astoria, as she had uia«h' but slight progress. Captain Flavel was picked n\^ off the l»ar and tottk the steamer across, ])ut when just inside she refused to nnnd her helm antl (h-ifted u|)on Sand Island. She again floated into deep water, wheii it was discovered that she would sink within a f«nv minutes. As a last resort. Captain Thompson ordered the pilot to beach the \'essel on C'latsop Spit. As soon as slu' struck, the sea l»egan to l)reak over hei-. This was at seven o'clock in the evening, and two houi-s later she broke in tvvo. The passengers and ci-ew clung to the \\reck with the hope that it would lu)ld together until morn- ing, but at about three o'clock Captaivi Thompson selected a crew of ten men, and putting them in the only boat left, rei[Uesteil Cap- tain Flavel to take conimand and go for aid. After a long and exceedingly hazardous trip they reached Astoria, sent a volunteer crew back to the wreck in a whale boat and followeil in another one themselves. When they reached Clatsop Spit they were unable to disco^ er even a vestige of the steamer. She had broken in pieces and been swe]>t out to sea with the forty-two human >>eings who had dung to her. The steamer Avas an unseaworthy hulk that should have been condemned long before. The immigration of 1852 wa** very large. The tide which had turned towards California (bn'iug the few years immediately follow- ing the discovery of gold, now set in towards Oregon again. Pra<-- tical experience in the mines had sei'ved to dispel, in a measure, the glamoiu* surrounding them, and j)eople with their eyes turneil west- ward beican to realize that the homestead the ujoverument srener- oiisly offered them in Oregon was preferable to tlie hazardous occu- pation of a miner. Many of them came with the intention of fii'st locating a permanent home in the beautiful Willamette Valley and then make a trip to the mines to " try their luck," returning again to their laud claim when satisfied with their experience with the I'ocker and sluice-box. The season was dry, and the great throng of cattle and horses soon disposed of every vestige of gi'ass along th(^ route, so that thousands of stock coming later in the simimer famished and died, their putrid carcasses marking the routt' for those OTJF.OOX AS A TERRITOUV. H41 who rarne jifter. TIumv was much sickness, too. among the emi- grants, <'ause(l l)y scarcitv of water and food, for the slow progress mach^ l»y the enfeel»]ed cattle caused the supplies in many of the wagons to give out long before the Columbia was reached, while some emiixrants wiiosc stock all dietl had to struy-ffle alonj; on foot with only such food as could be packed upon their backs. Wlien news of the famishing condition of the emigrants reached the Wil- lamette, the people held public meetings in various places, to receive donations of money and supplies, and appoint commissioners to attend to their pi'oper distribution. Flour and beef -cattle were the chief form in which aid was sent. Headquarters were established at The Dalles, and men went out on the route as far as the Grand Ronde Valle}- to carry food to tliose who were suffering. This movement of the |)eople was spontaneous and unselfisli in the highest degree, and the men who gave their services did so without asking or receiving an} reward whatever; and yet loud complaints w(?re made l)y some of the emigrants because they did not receive as large a share as they deemed themselves entitled to. At the Uma- tilla Agency — then called " I'tilla" — -Sylvester and John H. Hall interviewed the emigrants as tlu^y passed by, and took the name, age, and former residence of those who had died on the route. Their list, which must have been nearly complete, contained one h\mdred and twenty-one names, neai'ly all adults, chiefly from Illi- nois, Iowa and Missouri, and wa.s published in Portland on the eleventh of December, 1852. It nuiy be found by refei-ring to the ohi files of the Times, or Orcgojuau. Anctther list, taken from tlie Sacramento Union, was pu])lished in tlie Z»//f.v, November 2(», 1852, i^ivinij names of those wIk^ died in the California trains, but em- l»racing the losses of tlie entire emigration east of F()rt Hall. On the first of January, 1853, and for a day or two following, occurred a disastrous flood in the AVillamette. Heavy falls of snow in December were followed by copious warm rains, converting every brook into a foaming torrent and the river into a rau-inij flood. Tlie steamer Lot Whitcomh was wrecked near Milwaukie, but was after- wards raised and n'paired. At Oregon City, the old Abernethy store, McLoughlin's saw mill, the Island l)ridge, and other objects were washed away. General Palmer''s mill, at Dayton, was carried down the stream, a number of tenements at Linn (/ity started on a s; M2 IlISTOKT OF WriLLAMKTTE VALLKY. voyage lo the Coliiiiihiji, and luucli damage was done all along the stream. During the seven; weather which preceded the flood, large numbers of cattle, hoi'ses and mules died on the plains east of The Dalles. Many t>f them had been left there by the emigrants, to be gi'azed during the winter, while othei-s belonged to men who had already gone into the cattle Inisiness on tlu)se since famous bunch- grass ranges. But a small percentage of the stock survi\ed. The Legislature assembled at Salem in Decend)er, 1852, as did also the Supreme Court, the Whigs having been convinced that Salem was the leoal seat of <;overnment. The Democrats still nuiintained a political ascendency, and when Governor (xaines addressed them a long gubernatorial message at the opening of the session, they declined to receive it, on the ground that as the Governor was not required to sign acts passed by them, and did not even possess the veto power, he was in no sense a portion of the legislative branch of the government, and had no more right to inflict them with mes- sages than any j)rivate citizen. Had the executive been of the right political faith they ^\•ould, no doubt, have listened to a message fi'om him as long as the moral law. During the session the subject of a State constitution was much discussed, and a bill providing for the holding of a convention passed the house, but died in the senate. The question of a division of the Territory also received the attention of the Legislature. Oregon at that time contained three hundred and forty-one thousand S(piare miles, e([ual in area to the six great States of hidiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin, by fai- too large for admission into the Union as a single State. Through it ran the great Columbia River, dividing it into neai'ly eipuil northern and southern parts, from the ocean to old Fort Walla Walla, where the stream made a long sweep to the north. The great centers of j)opulation were the Willamette, Umpcjua and Rogue River valleys. The region north and w'est of the Columbia was known as " Northern Oregon,'' and, during the previous five or six yeai's, had become quite po[)ulous. Quite extensive ship- ments of coal, lumber and fish wei-e being made from Puget Sound, on which three saw mills had already been established. The chief settlements in Northern Oregon at that time were: Pacific City and Chinook, near the mouth of the Colund)ia; Vancouver, occupied by the Hudson's Bay Company and a large number of employes, OKKOON AS A TERIUTOUY. WA UnittHl Stiitt's troops, nud many Aau'i'i<.aii.s who liiul .scttlfd in or near t\w town; Foils Walla Walla, Okinagan and Colville, further up the Coliunhia; Fort Nis(jually, on the Sound, belonging to the Puget Sound Agricultural Company; Olynipia; New Market, or Tumwati'r; Steilaeoom, and Port Townsend, on the Sound, and many locations for agi'it iiltural purposes, especially along the Cow- litz, where the little towji of Monticello was h)cated. Besides l)eing separated by a natural geogi-aphical boundary, the interests of the two sections were, to a large extent, different and often conflicting, and, as Northern Oregon was in a hopeless minority in the legisla- ture, it could accomplish nothing for itself in the matter of legisla- tion. The people of that region greatly desired self-govermnent, and their fellow pioneers of the Willamette were willing they should have it. The first steji taken was on the foui'th of Jxily, 1851, when a public mcieting was held in 01ym]>ia, to consider the (^LUi'stion of a conv(>ntion of delegates to memorialize Congress on the subject. Another was held in Cowlitz Precinct on the seventh, and on the twenty-third of August still another at Steilaeoom. Nothing defi- nite was agreed upon. In September, 1852, T. F. McElroy and J. W. Wiley founded the Columbian at (>lym[)ia, and l)egan tit uuce to advocate a separate govermnent. On the twenty-fifth of the fol- lowing Novend)er a convention of delegates assembled at Monticello and prepared a memorial to Congress, which was forwarded to Wjishington and presented ])y Delegate Lane to Congress. He had previously prcxnired the introduction of a bill by the Commit- tee on Territories t(i create the Territory of Columbia. This was amended by changing the name to " Washington," and finally pass(?d, receiving the President's approxal on the third of March. The Oregon Legislature luul addressed a memorial to Congress requesting such action as above, but it tlid not reach Washington in time to be of service. The new Territory embraced all of Ore- gon north of the Columbia River and the forty-sixth paralltO, with Olympia as the seat of government. Major Isaac I. Stevens, of the U. S. Engineers, was aj^jijointed Governor by President Pierce; Charles II. Masim, Secretary; J. S. Clendenin, Attorney; J. Pattern Anderson, Marshal; Edward Lander, Victor Monroe, and O. B. McFaddeu, Judges. The Governor's prochimation assuming the 5 if I I'M ! ill .'U4 HISTORY OP WILLAMKTTK VALI-EY. duties of his otticc was issued while he was crossing the Rocky Mi)untaius, SepteiidxT '2d, IS");! On the tifttH'uth of Marcli, 18515, less tliaii two weeks after his inauguration, PiH'sidcnt Pieroe made a clean sweep of the Whig otticials of Oregon, and a|)[)ointed Democrats in theii* i)laces, as fol- lows: Governor, (reiieral Joseph Lane; Seci-etary, (leo. L. Curry; Chief Justice, (ico. 11. Williams; Associate Justices, Matthew P. Deady and Cyrus Olney ; Marshal, Jam<'s W. Nesmith; Collector of Customs, John Adair; Superintendent of Indian Affairs, Joel L. Palmer; Attorney, Benjamin F. Harding, (rovernor Lane reached Portland, hy steamer, on the fourteenth of May, and was tendered a pulilie reception in that city. He was nominated hy the Demo- crats to succeed himself as Delegate to Congress, having for an opponent, A. A. Skinner, of Jacksonville, the " People's Candidate." The election was held on the sixth of June, Lane receiving four thousand five hundred and si.xteen votes, and Skinner two thousand nine hundred and fifty-one. General Lane soon departe<l again for Washington, leaving the executive office in the hands of Seo'etary Curry, who was later appointed Governor. In November, John W. Davis was appointed Governor, and O. B. McFadden, Justice, vice Deady removed. Deady was re-apjjoiuted in August, 1854, 7'!ce McFadden resigned. The Legislatiwe met in December, 18.").'], the government being then Democratic in all its 1 tranches. During the session the coun- ties of Coos, Columbia, Tillamook and Wasco were created. The formati<Mi of a State constitution was a pet measure among the leaders of the Democratic party, and they had but little trouble in ))assing a bill to test the opinion of the people on the subject at the next June election. The Wiiigs were opposed to the movement for the same i-eason that the Democrats favored it — the present strength of th(,' lattei' at the polls, Avhich would give them control of the gov- ernment and su[)[)ly fat offices for the leaders of the movement. At the same time General Lane was endeavoring at Washington to have Congress authoi'ize the peojde of Oregon to frame a constitu- tion, but unsuccessfully. The election was held on the fifth of June, resulting in a defeat of the measure by a vote of three thou- sand two hundred and ten in favor of it to four thousand and sev- enty-nine opposed, notwithstanding the fact that in other respects OREOON AS A TKIMJITOKV :ur. the TerriLui'} gave ji large Deiiiocratic inajt>rity. 'I'lie greatest eou- trast was in Jaeks )ii County, a great Deuiocratic stroiighdld, whieli voted almost inianiinously against it. The secret of this was that a movement was on fot>l in tliat regicm to have; a n(;v\' territory cre- ated out of Nortln'rn California and Southei'n Oregon, and the ad- mission of Oregon into the rnit)n woulil be fatal to the scheme. Nothing daunted, the Democratic leaders and newsj>a[)ers at once made that an issue for the next election. Govt^rn<»r Davis resij^ncd and started for his hom<i in Indiana on the fifth of August, 1854, and the executive duties again devolved up<m the Secretary, (Tcorge L. Curiy. lie wa? afterwards ap- pointed Governor, and B. F. Harding was appointed Secretary, V)e- ing succeeded as Attorney hy W. II, Farrar. The Legislature con- vened at Salem in December, and one of the first (juestions it con- sidered was the creation of a county along both sides the Willam- ette from above Milwaukie to its mouth, taking in portions of Clackamas and Washington. A bill of a similar natiu-e had been presented to the former Legislature, but too late in the session to secure favorable action. The county seat of Washington was at Hillsboro, and the peoj)le of Porthiftd, now becoming quite a city, desired a county of their own. The peculiar shape of the proposed county won for it the jocuhir name of "Boot," but tliough this may have been extremely funny it did not prevent the bill for the crea- tion of Multnomah County passing the House on the twenty-third of DecemV)er by a vote of twenty-one to four. It also passed through the Council. Later in the session another new county effort came to grief. After much discussion in the House on a l)ill to create Willamette Comity out of portions of Yamhill, Clackamas and Marion, with county seat at Cham|)oeg, it was indefinitely post- poned. A bill passed on the thirteenth of January, IH.");"), removing the seat of Territorial Government from Salem to Corvallis and the LIniversity from Corvallis to Jacksonville. The subject of a constitutional convention occupied much time during the session of this Legislature. The discussion was warm and protracted. Action, at one time, took the form of appointing a committee t(^) draft i>ne, but finally the controversy ended by the passage of a bill to take the sense of the people on the subject at the next general election. At the same time General Lane was 'i m ll M 34r> mSTOIlY OK WILLAMETTE VALl-EY. seeking to liave Cuiigi-ess to ])ass a l)ill authorizing a State constitu- tion to ))e f(inne(l V)y the p<'ople living west of the Cascades and south of the Columl)ia, but without success, beyond passing it througli the House. At the June election the State went strongly Democratic, Geu(n'al Lane defeating John P. Gaines for Delegate by a vote of six thousand one hundred and seventy-eight to three thousand ni^e hundred and forty-three. Gaines was the candidate of the American, or Know-Nothing, party, which had succeeded the Whig organi/>ation as tlie opponent ol" DeuKJcracy. Notwithstand- ing the great majority, the Constitutional Convention, a pet measure of the Democratic leaders, was again defeated, and, as l)efore, by Jackson County, which gave a Lune majority of one hundred and forty-two, and against convention of four hundred and twenty-tw(». The convention was defeated by a Vdtc of foui- tiiousand eight hun- dred md thirty-fivt' to four thousand foui- hundi'ed and twenty, a majority of four hundred and iifteen, or seven less than in Jackson County. The opposition fought the constitution project fiercely, and were aided ])y Deinocrats in Jackson who still cherished the idea of a new Territory, and others who looked upon tlie State move- ment as pi'emature. In A[)ril Mr. Bush moved the Sfak'suian from Salem to Corval- lis, a>i he had previously done from Oregon C^ity to Salem. Mucli fun was made of the paper which was being carted about the Ter- ritory " on wheels,'M)ut the publisher replieil that the Siatesnnin was published at the seat of govenunj'nt, wherever that might chance to be. Th<^ opposition to '-emoval of the seat of govern- ment to Corvallis was very strong. Work had been commenced by contractors on the [)ubli(' buildings at Salem, \vhicli was at once discontimied. The matter was at once referred to the Secretary of the Treasury by Governoi urry for instructions as to the cours(» to pui*sue in regard to money to be e.vpended for puldie buildings. Early in July he received instructions from the department not to annul existing eonti'acts nor make new ones, and not to remove his otH( J from Salem, as the rehtcation act was deemed inoperative till acted upon by Congress. Conti'actors at once resumed work on the l)uildings at I'alem. (iovernor Curry and Scu-retary Harding promptly remo'-ed the'r olfit-es )>ack to Salem, in aci-ordance with iustructions, and again Oregon had two capitals. OREGON AS A TETilUTOnY 347 The incidents attending- the discover}' of gold, and the Indian wars of 1855 to 1858, are related at length in subserjuent chapters. On the second of November, 1855, the Pacific Telegraph Company began stretching wires south from Portland. The first telegraphic message in Oregon was sent over this wire from Oi'egon City to Portland, on the sixteenth of November, 1855. It was as follows: OHKfioN City, Fikhiy Iti, o i'. m. First flaah from Oregon City to Portland. Coinplinients of tlie Pacilie Telegraph Company to the editor of the Orrgonian. How are you, old fellow? (iive us your hand, rieawe .send us the latctst news from The Ualles and Yakima country. [This was just after Major Haller's defeat i»i Yakima.] Any news of interest from Pugct Sound? The machine.^ work well. More to-morrow. CHAS. F. .JONES. In Septem1)er, Secretaiy Harding received instructions from Washington not to disburse any money for public buildings not located in Salem, nor for mileage or pay of membcr.s of Legislature meeting at any place except Salem. This settled the (juestion prac- tically,- and it became the general opinion i)f mendiers that they must a.ssemlde at Corvallis for sake of legality, but nuist adjiturn at once to Salem, for sake of their salaries. On the third of Decem- ber both houses convened at Corvallis, and the first bill introduced — on the sixth — was to relocate the seat of government at Salem. The House passed it on the tenth, to take effect on the twelfth. It was reported at once to the Council and an efport made to rush it through, which failed for want of a (luorum. The next day motions were made to amend, so as to sul)mit it to popular vote, also to sub.stitute Eugene City for Salem, then Portland, Roseburg and Albany, all of which were <lefeate(l. On the twelfth it was amended to take effect the fifteenth, and passed. The House concurred in the amendment the same day. The members at once journeyed t(» Salem, accompanied by the S/d/csfJum^ and the s(!ssictn was reo])ened on the eighteenth. On the night <»f the twenty-ninth the State House — nearly completed — was destroyed by fire, togethei' with the library and archives of the Ttirritory. It was conceded t(» be the work of an incendiary. A bill was introduced into the House for submitting the ([uestion of location of the capital to popular vote at the ne.xt general electit>n. It passed Uiuster in both houses and became a law. Just before th<' session came to a dose, a bill providing for an election, in April, of delegates to a convention in July, which should ^1 348 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. frame a constitution, to he voted upon at tlie next general election, Avas rushed through the House, under a sus^jension of the rules. The Council was equally prompt in passing it. At the election eight thousand four hundi'ed and forty-three votes were cast, and a majority of two hundred and forty-nine were in favor of not hold- ing a convention. The deh'gates elected never attempted to as- semble. At the general election in June the voters indicated their pref- erence for a permanent seat of go\'ernment. The act provided that in case no town had a clear majority of all the votes cast, a special election should l)e held the first Monday in October, to decide between the two I'eceiving tht( greatest nund»er. Tlie l)allots, as cast, and canvassed in the different counties, gave the four leading con- testants the following \'otes: Eugene City, two thousand si.\ hun- dred and twenty-seven; Corvallis, two thousand three hundred and twenty-seven; Salem, two thousand one hundred and one; Portland, one thousand one hundred and fifty -four. Neither had a majority, but Eugene City and Corvallis were the highest two, and between them the final decision was to be made in October. So it was pid)- blished in all tlie j)apers, and so it was understood universally. There Wiis a sur[)rise in store for everybody. It was one of the provisions of the act that the returns should Ite Hied with the Secretary of the Territory within forty days, and at the e.K[)iration of that time he was to canvass them and officially declare the result. The counties of Wasco, Tillamook, Jackson, and Josejihine failed to c(tinply with the law in this respect, and were omitted from the canvass. Corvallis had received a large majority in Jackson County, and the loss of it placed her behind Salem. The oificial result was certified by Sec- retary Harding, as follows: Eugene, two thousand three hundred and niimteeii; Salem, tA\<> thousand and forty-iiiiic; Corvallis, one thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight; Portland, one tii(»usand one hundn^ and tifty-four. In accordance with this, a special elec- tion was called foi' the first Monday in Octobei', to decide finally between Eugene City and Salem. It is needless to say tliat the people genei-ally were very nmch disgusted, while the citizens of Corvallis were greatly incensed. The sul)jeet was nuich discussed, and it became known that the authorities at Washington held that Salem was the seat of government by virtue of an act of Congress, OKKfiON AS A TKHIMTOKY. 340 whicli act neitliei- the Legislature nor jieople had the power to change; and that no money would l>e ])Hid for tlie construction of public })uildings or rcuital of offices at any other point, or for the expenses of a legislative session held at an>' place l)ut Salem, (xeneral apathy followed, and \vhen the first Moixhiy in ( )ct()ber came aroimd few people took the trouble to vote. Less than a hundred votes were cast in the city of J'ortlani!, while in many places no polls were opened whatever. Curry, Marion, Tillamook, Polk and Wasco made no retni-ns to the Secretary. Of the legal votes ca-st, Kngene City received two thousand five hundred and fifty-nine, and Salem four hundred and. forty -four. (Jorvallis received one regular vote, and three lnui(h'ed and eighteen irr<'gular ones, the latter be- ing cast by the citizen-^ of that place, who did not propose to }>v, t'heated out of their honors l)y a mei'e technicality, but who did not open their polls in a regular manner. According to the I'eturns of the special election Kugene City be- came the seat of justice; ))ut the electi<in was ignored, and both the Legislatui'e and the Supreme Court assembled at Salem in De- cember. No salary would have been received by the meuibei-.s had they met in Salem, and there was danger that Congress would de- clare the session illegal. These difficulties were obviated })v re- maining in Salem. The (piestion of a constitutional convention again came l»efore the Legislature, and an act was [)assed providing for the holding of one in iVugust, 1S57, provided the people so de- cided at the |)r<'vious June election, at which time, also, delegates were to be chosen. A great change had come over the sentiments of the people on this (piestion, owing to divers causes. The people of Jackson and Josephine counties had Mbandoned their idea of a new Territory; the people generally had become tired of the crudi- ties and annoyances of a teri'itorial government; and, finally, the Territoiy had claims to the amount of several million dollars against the Government for expenses incurred in the Indian wars, and it was evident to all that they stood a much better chance of securing these witji two Seiiatoi's and a Representative to talk and vote for them, than simply with a Delegate who had no vote at'all. The conse((uence of this revolution in popular sentinn-nt was a great ma- jority in favor of a coiixention, the vote standing seven thousand two hundred and nine to one th«»usaud six hundred and sixteen. Gen- 350 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. eral Lane wa.-* again the Democratic nominee for Delegate, and was electeil, i-eceiving five thousand six hundred and sixty-two votes. There wa^ uo reguhirly oi'ganized op[)ositit)U, since the Whig party was di'ad. the American, or Knovv-Nothing luid become disorgan- izwl, and the new lve[>ul)lican party had not been organized a.s yet in Oregon. The oj>position concentiated on G. W. Lavvson as an indepen»hM»t randidate, and gave him three thousand four lumdred and sev»iity-oue vot'.'s, ;? minority of two thousand «»ne hundred and ninety-one. Tlie delegates convened at Salem on the seventeenth of August, 1857, and ««rganized by electing M, P. Deady, President, and C. N. Terry, Secretary. Aftei- an animated session the convention ad- journetl on the eighteenth of Septend)er, theii- work, {is a whole, being adopteil by a vote of thirty-five to ten — fifteen membei-s ])eing absent. The follouing gentlemen composed the ccmvention: — Btiitou—oiAnx Kelsay, H. C. Le\v'is, II. B. Nicluds, Wm. Matzger; Clatsop — ^Cyrus Olney; Columbia — John W. Watts; Clackamas — James K. Kelly, A. L. Lovejoy, AVm. A. Starkweather, 11. Camp- bell, Nathaniel Robbins; Coos —V. B. Marple; Curry — William H. Packwo«Ml: Douglas — M. P. Deady, Solonum Fitzhuirh, Stephen S. Chad wick. Thomas AVhitted ; /asYy^/z/wr— S. B. Hendershott, AV. II. ^i\iVm<\ Jackson — L. J. V. Duncan, J. IT. Reed, Daniel Newcomb, P. P. Prim; Linn — Delazon Smith, Luther Elkins, John T. Crooks, J. II. Brattain, James Shields, Reuben S. Coyle; Lane — Enoch Hoult, W. W. Bristow, Jesse Co.\, Paul Brattain, A. J. Cainpl»ell, Isaac R. Moores; Afarion — George IT. Williams, L, F. (trover, J. C Peebles. Joseph Cox, Nicholas Shrum, Davis Shannon, Richard Miller; Multnomah — S. J. McCormick, William IT. Farrar, David Logan; Multnomah and Washington — Thomas J. Di-yer; Wash- ington — E. D. Shattuck, John S. White, Levi Anderson; Polk — ReuT>en P. B«Mse, F. Waymire, l^enjamin F. T^urch; Polk and Til- lamook — A. D. Babcock; Umpqua — Levi Scott, Jesse Ap[)legate; Wasco -C. R. Meigs; Vamhill—M. Olds, R. V. Short, R. C. Kin- ney, John R. McBrid«'. The ([uestions of slavery and free negroes had been piu-posely avoided in the convention, and were engrafted upon the schedule as special arti«-les, to be voted u})on by the people sei»ai'ately. The constitution was opposed by some people because it did not pro- OKKOOX AS A TEKHITORY. 351 hibit slavery, and l)y others Lecause it did not establish slavery. The seat of government was also objectionable t(j some who were opposed to Salem. A special election was held t>n the second of the following Novendjer, and resulted as ftdlovvs: For constitution, seven thousand one hun<b('d and ninety-five; against, thi-ee thousand two hundred and fifteen. For slavery, two thousand six hundred and forty-five; against, seven thousand seven huinhrd and twenty- seven. For free negroes, one thousand and eighty-one; against, eisfht thousand six huncb'cd and f(>rtv. The Territorial Letris- lature convened on tlie eleventh of Decend)er, bs57, and held its usual session. For the regular June election, 1858, full State ti<;kets were nominated by tiie Democratic and Kepul^lican parties? the contest i-esulting in a sweeping victory for the Democrats, as follows; Kepresentatixc to '^'ongress- — L. F. (rrover, five thousand eight hun(b'ed and fifty-nine; James K. Kelly, four thousand one hundred and ninety. (loveruor — John W'hiteaker, five thousand seven hundred and thirty-eight; E. M. Barnum, four thousand tw») lumdred and fourteen. Secretary of State — Lucien Heath, five thousand seven iiun«h-ed and forty-six; E. A. Kice, three thousand six hundred and fifty-nine. Treasurer — John D. Boon, I've thousand six hundred and seventy-six; J. S. Jiramley, thi-ee thousand five hundred and thirty-one; E. \j. A]>])legate, five hunih-ed and ninet}'. State Printer — Asahel Bush, four thousand nine hundred and fifty- eight; James O'Meara, four thoustuid fi\(' hundred and fifty-seven; D. W. Craig, four hundred ami thirteen. M. P. Dcnuly, R. E. Strat- ton, R. P. Bois(^, and A. E. Wait were chosen Justices of the Su- preme Court. Aecoi'ding to the constitution a special term of the newly ehn-ted State Legislature convened in Sak'm on the fifth of July, foi' the puri)ose of electing two I Jiited States Senators. It was composed of thirty-eight Democrats and eleven Republicans. On the eighth of July the oath of office was administered to Gov- ernor Wliiteaker l»y Judge Boise, and the machinery of the new Government was put in operation. The Legislature, elected Joseph Lane and Delazon Smith to rep- resent Oregon in the Tnited States Senate, and adjourned after a .session of four days. Soon afterwaids word was received tliat Con- gress had adjourned ^vithout tiie House passing thcf enabling act which had passed the Senate early iu May, and that Oregon must 352 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. reniuin ji IVn'itorv until the next session. For some time the proper rourse to pursue wus svarmly discussed. There wei'e two full sets of orticers and two forms of government. (Gradually it became the t,'eneral <)[)ini<)n that the State officers shouhl remain tpiietand per- mit the Territorial (foverninent to proceed unemban-assed. Under the eonstitution the State Legislature should have met in Septemljer, }>ut at the ap])ointed time only nine representatives and two sena- tors made their appearance in Salem, and these adjourned after two useless meetings. On the sixth of December the Territorial Legis- lature again assembled and hehl its regular session. Soon after its adjournment news was received that Oregon had been admitted into the Union. Senator Smith and llepresentative Grover had gone to Washington the fall l)efore, and when Congress* as.sembled liad joined with Delegate J^ane (Senator elect) in urging the pa.ssage of an enabling act for Oregon. It early pii.sse<l the Senate, but met with bitter opposition in the House, being supported l>y the Demo- crjits and opposed by the Republicans. Finally, on the twelfth of February, 1S5U, it wtw passed by a strict party vote. It then received the signature of President Buchanan, and Oregon Territory was a thing of the past. The following are the signatures of the Delegates to the Consti- tutional Convention held in Salem, Septeni}>er 18, 1857:— * ■^**^r df^utjC ^ .^^(^-'nj^ ^«^,^^.^^g^.^t-«'»— ^^ , .^^"^^^ ^^.^^yLlj^ ^a^zoo^. -..J^/ji C^<Ji-t4 ^,^4^^.^^ A^ iil>*H.<^ ^i^S^ / ^^/ L^ , ' cf^ ' t^U^.,X3.;jJcx-x«_,V't^ ^^^^' <2-«-o*- /1f^ ^ i ;«■ ♦ Out T by 1 men any of a shov fi pn othe liad tlicr* wert settli wan mak peop in tt selve (lispj liast< CHAPTEK XXI. INDIAN WARR OF 1853 AND \Hr>4. Outrageu Committed in limjue River Valley- Voluniror Companies Organised — General Tjine Takes Command — Defeat nf Lieutenant Griffin and of Lieutenant Khj — Indians Defeated at Battle Creek — Armistice of Seven Days — The Table lioek Treaty Incidents of the '•'■Peace Talk " — The Grave Creek Massacre — Captain Miller Sent to Escort Emigrants through the Modoc Country- - Expenses nf the War Paid by the Government — Events of 185 Jf— The Snake River Massa- cre — Expedition oj- Major Ilaller to Eort Boise. TROUBLE was tipjain experienced witli the Indians in Rogne River Valley in the fall of 18r)l{. It began early in August by tlie perpetration of several murders in diffei-ent loi-alities by members of several <lifF(!rent l)ands of the tril)e, aj»j)arently without any preconcerted action vvhate\-er. Feeling uneasy at the pr»'sence of a small band of these Indians, though there is no evidence to show that they had been concerned in any of the nuu'ders mentioned, a party of men attacked their camp, killed one buck and wounded others, and carried the women and children to a stockade which had been erected for the protection of the settlers, retaining them there as hostages. A few days later tiie warriors surrendered, and were kept with theii* families at the stockade, where, also, the settlers were assembled for mutual protection. In a few days the warriors rebelled, killed four of the men and wounded three others, making good their escape. A state of war now existed. The people collected at Jacksonville and at half-a-doy.en central points in the settlements, and "forted up," while the Indians })usied them- selves in destroying the a})andoned homes. A courier was at once dispatched to notify Captain Alden, at Fort Jones, and that officer hastened to Jacksonville with t^veuty men, all the force that could 354 HISTORY OF WrLI.AMETTK VALLKT. 1)6 spared from the post. Two o(»iupjini<'s of voluntecrH — ninety men under Captain J. P. (roodall, and sixty under Captain Jacob Rboades — were (trganized at Yreka and came over t«» aid the Ore- gon settlers. Six companies (»f vohititeers wei'e raised in Southern ()reg()n, commanded by Ca[)tains II. L. AVilliams, J. K. l.americk, John F. Miller, Elijis A. Owens, antl ^V. W. Fowler, the last named being designed solely for the protection of Jacksonville. The other companies all assembled at Camp Stewart and were organized into a battalion, of which Captain Alden assumed command by request, the effective force nund)ering some three hundred men. F^ach volunteer was mounted, armed and dressed according to his own fashion. It was a nondescript body of soldiery, but, none tlie less, one well Htted for the work in hand. Meanwhile, the Indians had also united and taken uj) a position «>n Talde Rock, wliicli they fortified with considerable skill by means of a ditch and a rampart of eailli and rocks. This, however, they soon a])andoned, and retired into tlie mountains, and it took several days to ascertain their whereabouts. A messenger was dis- patched to Acting Governor Curry, soliciting aid in prosecuting the war, )>ut before it arrived the war was over. Genei'al Lane heard of the difHculty while at his home on Deer Creek, Douglas County, and hastily collecting abojit fifty volunteers, he was soon with the battalion at ('amp Stewart. Captain Alden tendered him the com- mand of the fon-e, and he accepted it. Meanwhile, several collisions had occui'red between the whites and d<'tached bands of >.avages. Tiieutenant Burrell H. (triffin, with some twenty men of Miller's company, had a fight with about twice tliat nund)er of Old John's band, led Ity the diit-f in j)erson. The whites were defea'.ed witli a loss of one killed and two w(mnded, including the Lieutenant. The Indians subsequently admitted the loss of five killed and wounded. This battle occurred near the confluence of Applegate and Williams creeks. Two days before this, John R. Harding and William R. Rose, of Lamerick's com})any, while on their way from Camp Stew- art to JaoksonWlle, were fired upon by Indians when near Willow Springs. Rose was killed and Harding so severely wc)unded that he died shortly afterwards. Other incidents were the capture and shooting of a suspected Indian by Angus Brown, the hanging of an Indian child in the town of Jacksonville, the hanging of five Indians INDIAN WARS OF EIOIITKEN FIKTY-TIIUKK FOtUJ. 355 upon one tree at jinotlKT point, and a nuniluT of t)tlM'r incidents wliifli reflect no credit upon those cnLTfiired in tlieni, and serve to show to what a pit<-h the feelings ol the people had hi'en ai-oiised. A collision occurred a few days Uefore the arrival of (Jeneral Lane, which showed that the campaign was to l»e soiuething more than chiM's ]>lay. On tlu' sixteenth of August a detachment of twenty-two men from Gooihill's company was sent out tinih-r Lieu- tenant Simeon Ely, to reconnoitre. The next day, when al><»ut two miles northwest of Tal)le Rock, the men ])icketed their iiorses in the flat and sat down to enjoy dinner; sentries were stationed, hut soon loft tlieir posts and gathered with tlx' rest around thesjuoking viands. Just at this blissful moment there came a \ollev of bullets fi'om a fringe of willows close by, that killed and wounded t<'n of their number. I^eaving their horses they rusiied to cover, and gain- ing a strong position amid the brush and fallen timber, they kept the savages at l»ay. Privates Terrell and Mc(i««nigle set out for help, and l)efore the enemy iiad coijupletely surroundeij them got away and hastened to Camp Stewart, seventeen miles di«tant, where Goodall's company was stationed. (Joodall and his men set out at top speed, and in the shortest i)ractical time airived on the field. J. I). Carly and five others were in the advance, and when the In- dians saw tliem tlu'y decamped at once, carrying away eighteen horses, blankets, etc. The casualties inflicted on Kly's men were found to be — Sergeant Frank Perry and Privatt-s P. K<'ith, A. Douglas, A. C. Colbourn, L. Stukting, and William NefT, killed outright; and Lieutenant Ely and Privates Zebulon Sheets, Joiin Alban and James Carroll, wounded. C'arl Vogt, a German, is said to have been kilh'd at this fight, although his name is not to be found in any official documents i-elating to the killed in the war. The Indians had fallen back, and the main force under Captain Alden came up during the night. an<l all camju'd on the flat. The next morning the dead were buried with the hon()rs of war. Scouts sent out reported that the Indians had retired a hnig distance into the mountains, setting lire to the woods in their rear, and almost obliterating their trail. It was decided by the council of oflficers that it was nec(\ssary to return to liead(|uarters and recruit with jerked beef and other frontier relishes, in preparation for still more arduous duties. This was done, and they were thus preparing for ar)() HlSTOUy OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. a ram])}iign wlien (iferu'lHi Lane arrived, an descrilied above, and aH,»iunie(l coiimjjvnd. Tile colli jmn'u'S t>f Miller and Lamerick, conijx^ising a battalion ill charge of Colonel Ross were ordered t«» ju'oceed down EvanH' Creek to the -iupposed vicinity of the enemy. The regulars and the two Califor'iia coni]>anies of Goodall and Rhoades, under Captain Allien, \vei<^ ordered to proceed u]i Trail Creek to the battleground where Ely was found by the Indians, (reneral Lane himself pro- ceeded with Captain Alden's battalion. Scouts reported late iii the day that t le Luliaiis had taken to the mountains west and north of Evans' Creek. Karly on the following day (August 2.'{), the line of manih was taken up an«l the Indian trail followed through a very dirtii-ult country— mountainous, precipitous and )»ushy — wdiere there was constant [)rosj)eet of going astray, as the trail left by the xivnges was very dim and nearly obliterated by fire. On the morning of the twenty-fourth a shot was heard, and scouts came in tlirectly afterward and lejiorted the enemy encamped in a thick wood lilled with underl>rush, ap[)arently imj)enetral)le to horsi-s. (reneral Lane decided to attack instantly. The Hrst intimation the -avages had of the approach of the enemy, was a \olley of biiljcts. They were not stami>e(led by this rough salute, howe\cr, but, catch- ing \lp tlK'ii' guns, eiitereil witli /.est into the tight, while the sipiaws and other inipcdiincuta were sent out of hai'in's way. (^aptain Alden was wonndefj early in the Hght, and his i-egulais had dirti- ciilty in |)reserviiig him from the In<Iiaiis, who attem|»ted his cjip- /ure as he lay upon the ground. I'leasant Armstrong, of ^'amlli]l County, a much res]»ected gentleman who ha<l volunteered with (ieneral Lane, was mortally wouiide(l Ity a bullet in the breast and fell, it is said, e.vclaiming, " ,\ dead center shot!" The tight was very warm, and lasted for an hour, when the pack trains nrrixol with their guard. Leaving fifteen men to iruard the animals, (Jen- eral Lane took command of tin- others, n<»t more than ten in num- ber, and (d'dered a e*i.. ge. ^o drive the natives from their cover. Being in advance he appntached within thirty yards of the nearest Indians, when he received a severe bullet wound throuuh the risjflit arm. Still exposing himself, he was forcibly rlragg( d behind a tree, where he continued to direct tlie fight. He gave orders to e.vtend the line of battle so as to pri'vent the Indians from outtlauking hi.s force rXDlAis' WARS OK EIGHTEEN KIFTY-THKEE-FOUR. 357 mi- lill ■itl. :iimI was ivcd !cii- iniii- afi'st trt'f, 1 th.' jiiitl feeling the loss of l)loo(l, retired U'Ui|jorarily to have his wound attended to. At this juncture the In<lians, Iiaving found that Gen- eral Lane was in command of the whites, l)ey;an to call to hhn and to the soldieis, professing their readiness to treat for peace. Robert ^rctcaif, SuK-agent for the Indians, went tt) their camj), and through iiiin aiiil others negotiations were conniienced, (Jeneral Lane having retiiiiicd to the front, N<tt wishing to inform the savages of his wound, the (leiieral wmt among them, having thrown a heavy coat over his shoidders s(» as to conceal his arm. An armistice (»f sev«'n days \v!us agreed upon, at the conclusion of which a final peace talk should \h' held at 'J'al>le J{(»ck, wher'- a treaty was to l>e arranged, the Indians delivei' up their arms, and a reservation l»e assigneil them at Taltle Il<»ck. During the following night Colonel Ross arn\('d with his bat- talion, and Cliict Sam came in with alM)Ut half the waiiiors, with wln>m he had been recoiinoitering for a permanent camp. It seems that as soon as the engagement bi-gan. runners were sent (»ut by Joe to a[)[)rise his brother of the state of alTairs, and hasten his return. The distance prevented his arrival in lime to take j)art in the tight, ami his braves had n<t opportimit} to display their valoi'. It, there- fore, may have been pro^ idential that Ross' l»attalion ai-rived when it did. The Indians owned to a loss of twelve killed and wounded. J«»hn Scarborough, of the ^feka volunteecs. and Pleasant Arm- strong were killed, and (reiieral Lane, ('aj)tain Alden. Privates Thonuis Hays, !Ieni\ Fleshei and Oharl s Abbe were wounded, th<; latter mortally. Captain Alden dietl two years later from the result of his woinid, a llieneral Lane never (piite recovered from his own hurt. .\s soon as the terms of the armistice were arranged, the troops took up theii' nuu'<-h homeward and went into cam[) at llailey's ( liyliee's) Kerry, giving the location the name «>f "'CJamp Alden," in honor of the gallant Captain. Reinforcements began to arrive from various ipnirters by the time the forces returned to the valley. Among other things a howitzi'r was sent by the authorities at Fort Vjuicouver, with a supply of ammunitii>n. forty muskt'ts. four thousand cartridges, and (tthev articles. Lictitemuit KatJt/-, since (ieiieral, was sent in chaige of the howitzer, with seven men. Acting Governor Cm-ry made proclumutiou for an armed guard to accompany the Lieutenant, and 358 niSTOUT OF WILLAMETTK VALLET. forty-one nicu voluntcci-cd, led l>v J. AV. Nesniitb, with Lafayette (n-ovcr as Lieutenant. Lieutenant (trover went in -tKlvance with twenty men, .-tiid was joined at South rnijxiua, on Se|)teinl)er first, l>y Judtr«' Matthew P. ])eady, who was on his way to Jaei<sonville to hold court. Joel Palmer, Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and Samuel II. Cuh'er, Lidian Agent, also ai'rived. From Port Orford came C'aptain A. J. Smith with his company of First Dragoons, sixty strong. Owing to Palmer's failure to arrive at the time aj)- })ointe(l, the |)eaee talk was post[»oned until Septend)er t"nth. Judge Deady tiuis descrihes the scene which was enaete<l on the day last api)ointt'd: — The Mt'ene of Hue, I'uiuous " ja'aci- talk" lii'twccn ,lnso|ili [jUIIc and Inilian .Joseph —two ini'ii who liad so lately met in mortal i-omliat -was worthy of the j)en of Sir Walter Scott ami tiie pencil of 8alvator Koss. It was on a narrow hench of a long, gently-sloping hill lying over against the noted hhilt called Tuhle U >ck '"he ground was thinly covered with majestic old pines and nigged oaks, witii her. there a I'lnmp of grccii oak Imslies. Alioni half a mile aliove the liright niouiitaui Hiream that threadc<l the narrow valley liclow, sat the two chiefs in council. Lane was in fatigue dress, the arm which was wounded at liucna Vista in a sling from a frenh bullet wound received at Battle Creek. Indian Joseph, tall, grave and self- poHsessed, won- a long, black rohe over his ordinary dress. Hy his side sat Mary, his favorite child and failhful companion, then a comparatively handsome young wonum, unstained with the vices of civilization, .\round these sat on the griiMs Captain ,\. .1. Smith— now (jleneral Sndth, of St. Louis— who had just arrive', from I'ort Orford with his (r( i. ))any of the First I)rag(M)ns; Captain Alvord, then en. gaged in the construction ■>'. n ndlitary road through the rmpipia canyon and since l)aynuisler of the \' . S. A. ; Colonel Mill .Martin, of l'nip(pia, ( olonel .lohn K. Hoss, of .''^■'kMonville, and a few others. A short distance ahove us on the hillside were some hundreds of dusky warriors in lighting gear, reclining ipdctly on Ihi; ground. The day was licauliful. To the cast of us rose ahruptly Tahle Ko^ k and at its haxe stood S'nith's dragoons, waiting an.xiously with hand on horse the issue of this at- tempt to make peace without their aid. Alter a proposition was <liseussed and set- tled between the two ehlelM, the Indian wouhl rise up and eonnnunieate the matter to a huge warrior who reclined at the fool of a ; . .' ((uiti' near us. Thi-n the latter rose up and ciimmunicaled the iiuitter to the host above him, and the,\ belabored it back and forth with many voices. 'I'hen thi' warrior communic:<ted the thought of the multitude on this subject back to the chief; and so the <liseussion went on unti| an umlerstandlng was llnally reaidied. Then we separated — the Indians going back to their niouiitaiu retreat, and the whites to the camp. J. W. Ne.smith has left some additional ptirticulars of interest. He says; — Karly in the morning of the tenth of September, we rode toward the In<liun en. eami'mcnt. Our party consisted of tlie followlMg per.sons : (leneral L'lne, Joel I 'ahner, Samuel II, Culver, Captain .\ ..I. Sm lib, 1st Dragoons; Captain L. K. Mosher, adjutant; Colonel .John Hoss. Captain .1. \V. .N'esmilh, Liculciuint A. V. Kautz, H. U. Metcalf, J. I). MaMon, T. 1". rierney. After riding a couple of ndles we came to where it w as too steej) for our horses to ascend, and dismounting, we proceeded rxniAX WAKS of EIOHTEEN KIFTT-TirKKK-FOrU. ;i5i> on f(H)t. Half 11 iniU; of Hcrambllng over rocks and through brusli brought us Into tlie Indians' stronghold, juHt under the perpendicular clitl" of Tal)le Hoclt, where were gatiiered hundreds of flerce and well-armed savages. The business of the treaty began at once. Much tinu; was lost in translating and re-translating and it was not until late in the afternoon that our lal)ors were coniplete<l. About the mid- dle of the afternoon an I Julian runner arrived, l)ringing intelligence of the murder of an Indian on .Vpplegate Creek. He said that a company <>r whites under Cap- tain Owens luul that uu)rning captureil Jim Taylor, a young chief, tied him to u confusion grei >ng liuli ind it seemed for a time as if they were aliout to attack (ieneral Lane's party. The (reiu-ral addressed tlu' liuliaiis, telling tliem that Owens, who had violated the arnustice, wa« a l)ad man and not "Ue of his soldicix. He added con- siderable more of a sort to placate the Indians, an<i limdly the matter of ".lim's" death was settled l>y the whites agreeing to pay danuiges therefor in sliirts and blankets. Tilt' vdliiiitccrs wen- at oiicc (li,>^l)an(l«'(l and ivtiinicd t<> their luniii's. It was frcrly predicted by a <'ertain cUins (»f p«;oj)le, who wei'e .satitified witli iiotliinn' K>s tliiiii the (Xtei'iuiiiatioii of the In diaiis, that the treaty wtnild j)r()ve a laihiie, and the) so cdndiieti'd themselves as t«» render it siu-h as (|uiekly us possilih'. Uiiiing the arnii.stiee and suhseipieiit to the siij;niiiLC of (ht^ ti'caty, these exter- minators maintained their efforts to kill as many Indians a.s they (•(tU Id, rei;a I'd less ot an\ restrietioli ulialevi'i-. Kevenm- was tlieii motto, and they lived up to it. Not half of the outrages perpetratetj «tn Indians were ever heard of throiiiih newspapers; yet there are aceounts t^f se\ 'lai, and these are of a most eold-l»looded description. We v.ill allude liuhtly to a fev; e.xamph's. Captain IW)lt ^\ illiams, statii»ned with his eonijiany on the hanks of Rogue River, attempted to kill two ehildi'en, the sons of Chief Joe, but (Jeuend Lane, with the utmost haste, ordered his removal from the locality tt> another, where there vsould be less opportunity for the exereise of his pi-o- pensities. Of aiiotln'r outrage .Jutlge l)cad\ writen: — .At (Jravf Creek I stttpped to feed my liorsi' anil get sonu'thing o eat. There wa« a lu)uwe there called llif " JJatcs H<)U'«f," alter the num who kept it. It \Misa rougli, wooden structure without a floor anci hod au liinnenHe clapboard funnel at one end which served as a cliimney. There was noliousf or setll'incnt within ten or twelve ndles, or more, of it. Tbcrc I lountt ( 'aptaiu .1 . iv. Lamcrick in command of a com- pany of voluiilfcrs. It ^cems be had been sent there by ( ieneral Lane after tlie llglll at Italtle Creek, on account of tlu: muiiler of souu> Imliaiis there, of wliich he and oihers gave nie the followi 'f account: "Hates and some others had indu<'ed a snudi party of pcaceal>le I ndiaus, wlio lielongc'l in ilint \ ieinily, to enter into an cii- .ua^enunt to renuiiii at peace with the whites duiing the war which wn" M"ing on at some distance from them, and liy way of ratillcation to this treaty, in\ itcd them .1 partake of a feast in an unoccupied log liouse jus! across the road from the " Hiil)<4 House" ; and while they were parl^ikiug, uiuinaed, of lhl • jiliiHirtd lioHplliiHty tht; ar.o HISTOKT OF WILLAMETTK VALLEY. door waj< suddenly fa>itened upon them, and they were deliberately shot down through the erack* U-twii-n the lojjs hy their treaclierous lK>9ts. Near by, probably a i|uurter ofa mile (his side of the ereek, 1 was shown a large, round hole into which (he b<Mlie?< of these murdered Indians had been unceremoniously tumbled. I did not aev tbeni. for they were covered with fresh earth." It «U»e> in»t r«'(iuin' tlu* tliorouu:li investigution to wliit-b the rt'fnrd^ »»f tlu-M' «'V('nt>i have Ix't'ii suhjccted by the ^\riter, to tlcter- iiiim- r«uK'hisivt'l\ tluit whih' tlic winter as a class were content with tht- treaty and ohedient to its ])ro visions, there was a eonsiih'r- aide r,ijin«»rity who lost no t>i»i»oitunity to manifest their contempt <»f the in>uiiui»^nt and tlu ir disregard of its ohligations. Nor were the Indians idle. As soon as the report of the killings at (irave Creek, at Apph-irsite and other places, had l»een hruited abroad, and the nativt^s had beconii- convinced that they were individually in as nmch danger as before, they l)egan committing outrages jus great us tho>»' from which they had been suffering. It is unnecessary to detail the many incidents which occurred. It is si-fticient to say that thes»' mutual outrages were committed fioni time to time until they resulte*! in a long and bloody war in 18r)5. The Indians w«'iv settled on tli«' reservation at Table Rock, where. als<». Captain Smith established a military i»ost, which he calle<l •' Foit Lane": and this was foi- the next three yt ars the base of all military operations in Southern Oregon by the regulai* army. Captain Milh-r's comj>any of volunteers, one hundre«l and fifteen strong, was not disban<led with the others, but was dispatchetl t<) he Mixh"!- eountry by (Jeiieral Lane, where it di<l e.xcellent service f«»r six wi-eks in protecting emigrant trains in that hostile region. Two men were w«»undetl while engaged in this service. These occurrenei'< eomplete the hi'.toi'y of what is known as the "AVar of 185."{." There is a >hort note to be aj)[teMded relating to the indebt- e<ln»*?*.- which grew «)ut t)f tlie Avar. This was assumcil l)y the I'nite^l State's. The must<'r-rolls and aoc»)unts of all the eight coni- l)ani«'s an«l (ieneral Lane's staff (the (n-neral refused to accept compensation f«»r himself), were made out and adjusted bv C-aptain (to«Mlall, :l< inspecting and nuisteri .g offic r, r ling under orders fioin <ten« nil Lane, at the close of the wiu"; and these p!>j»ers were forwaitle-l ««• Captain Aiden at N\ ashijigton, and being presented to Congr«-<< were promptly acted upon at the instance of that otHcer and General Laue, iu his capacity as Delegate to Congress from INDIAN WARS OF KIGIITEEN FIFTY- TIIRKE-FOtH. 861 Oregon Territory, Ivlajor Alvord, Puyiiuister of tlie I'nitecl States army, under (ii'deis from tlie Secretary of War, [)ai<l off the volun- teers, ill coin, at Jack.sonville and Yreka, in June and July, \^i)t). The commissary and quartermaster accounts were at tlie same time sent in draft to Governor Curry, and by him disbursed to the pro])er creditors. The total cost to the United States was al)out )j^285,()()0. During the year isr)4 ther<' wa.s consider.', blc trouble with the Indians of Soalhern <.>re<;on, ♦•ausitig much troiiblc and anxiety to the settlei'H, but never amounting to a state of war. Much of this was caused by Tij)su Tyee, an unruly chief of a small band living in the Siskiyou Mountains, lie wjis killed by Shasta Indians that summer, much to the satisfaction of all parlies. In the fall Colonel Ross disj)at<-hed a coiMj'jiny of volunteers, uiKh'r Captain Jesse Walker, to escort emigrants through the Modoc country, where they performed excellent st rvice, and effectually guarde(l the emi- grants till all had j)assed through that dreaded region. What is generally known as the "Snake liiver Massacre," (»c- currred in tlie fall of iHai, and nearly added another to the long list of Indian wars of the Pa"iHc Coast. For a number of years immigrants had been accustomed to relax their vigilance nfU'V entering the region dominated by the Iludsi)irs Hay Coinpaii} , as Indians under the influence of that powerful organization had never committed dej)redations upon them. After leaving Fort Jlall they generally broke uj) into small pai'ties, whi'-h were strung along the route for miles without any organization what<'ver. A party of this kind, consisting of Alexander Ward and family of wife and ten children, Mrs. William White, Dr. Charles Adniiis, Samuel Mulligan, \N'iUiam Habcock, and a (irerman whose name is un- known, were attacked by Indians on the twciititth of August, on the south bank »»f lioise River, twenty-fi\e miles above I'ovt lioise. The struggle was biief. Ward and his eldest son Robert, Dr. Adams, Habcock, Mulligan and the txerman fought bravely and were soon killed. iNoiinan Ward, a lad of thirteen years, wjus wounded, but hid himself in the l)Ushes, and thus escaped death. The (»lde>t daughter fled, but was pursued and overtaken ;«ftei- i-un- niug some foiii- hundred yards. She fougiit desperate! \ to frustrate the hellish designs of the savages, and so eurag« 1 them by her re- sistance that she was shot thivmgh the head . ad killeil. (.>ne of 362 HISTORY OK WILLAMKTTK VALLKY. the five \\'ii<r»»iis was iMinied at that point, ami the h^H\y of Miss Ward mutilated with a red h()t ii'o)i. The other wt)nieii and chil- dren wei'e captured, and tlie sav^ages started witli them and four wag(»ns for their eanij), some half mile distant on the river bank. After pntgn-ssing a short distance thiough thf thick brush, they stopped and Uui'nt'd three more of the wagons. Here they selected Mrs. White as a victim for the'r lust, and after they jiad abused her in a most lion-ible manner, siic was dis])atched by a bullet wound in the head. Mrs. Ward and three small children were taken with the remaining wagon to theii- camp, only to undergo still greater tortures. The wagon was burned, and with it the three children, who were grasped by the hair and lu'ld acr«>ss the Iturnlng pile until their cries of agony wei't' hushed in death; their mother being comj)elled to witness their horrible sufferings. She wa- then sub- jected to the same fearful ordeal endured by Mrs. W hite, and was then killed by the blow of a tomahawk. The fate «»f the other four children never was known. The same day a party of seven men — among them Mr. Yantis and a y«)Uth named Ammen — came to the scene and attacked the Indians. In the tight young Ammen was killed, and the others were comjielled to retreat, taking with them the wound«'ti Norman Waid, whom they liad found in tiie brush. Two days later John F. Noble left Fort Boise with a party of eigliteen men an<l tli-scov- ered the bodies and e\ idences of the horrible details as above de- scrilted. I ln'y saw im Indians, and after burying the mangled IkhKu's thi-y returned. Tjic n(;ws was cairied in hast<' to The Dalles, and Major Kaines at once dispal died Maj<)r llaller with a stn)ngde tachment of troops to t)i< scene. Nathan ( )lney, Indian Agent, raised a comj)any of thirty-seven volunteers and acconn»anied the tro«»ps. When they reached Hoise Kiver they found the Indians had retreated to the mountains beyond reach. A few days of cam- paigning di.sclosed the fact that nothing could be accomplished, and the force returned to Tilt Dalles. The «'\citenient an<l indignation was great in the Willamette \'all«'y. K\ (iovernor lohn I*, (iaines was known to be n»ur l'\»rt lioi^ with two of his s«»ns, and it was rcporttnl that the\. jis well as others, had also l)een kill(;d. Tliere was a demand f»»r punishment of the jxrpetrutors, both a^ii au act of vcugeuuce and lK^^^Ul4e it was IXDIAN WARS OF EIGHTEEN KIFTY-THREE-FOrR. ana necessary as a nu'asuiv of protection for tlie emigration the follow- ing y«mr. At last Governor Cnrry issnetl a jn'oclaniati«>n calling for two companies of volunteei's, to he armed, e(|uip[)e(l and mounted at their own expense. A few days later he countermandeil it, the high officials of the State Militia — lirigadier (leneral J. AV. Nes- mitli. Adjutant (leneral E. M. Barnum, and others — having advised him that a winter eani[>aign was not advisable. This brought out a [»ul»lic indignation meeting in Portland, held Sej)tt'nd)er ;{(», and adjourned to October "J, at whicii resolutions, strongly condemning tlie (lovernor and his advisers, were |)assed. In this there was a sj)ice of the same political feeling which tinge<l every important movement in those days. T. J. Dryer was one of the counuittee wliich drafted tin- rt'solutions, and being editor of the Oregonian and an intense Whig, this was a splendid opportunity for him to deal the Democratic administration a stinging blow. In this in- stance he was in the right, f-.r, in cjuse a cam[>aign weiv deemed necessary at all, the winter season was the best one in which to make it. Because ot tin- snow the Indians could not retreat into the mountains before tlie tulvaitce of troops, but must remain in the valleys with their families, where they could be ejusily found and attacked. In the summer, on tlie contrary, twice as many ti'oops and twice the expense would be recpiired to pursue them through the mountain wilds. It was chargecl by {\w Whigs that this greater exi)ense was what the " (iovernment ring" desired, preferring a war Wk'li "sometliing in it" t(» a shoi't and decisive campaign. The ([Uestion was taken into the Legislature the following January. A majority of tlie co»: mil tee to which it was referred reporte<l in 'avor of doing lutthing, wiiile the minority leported a l>ill j)rovidirg for I'aisiug ti\e comii inies of \olunteers and pi'osecuting a war Mgainst the Snake Kiver Indians. The niajority report wtis ad(->[)ted, and the pro])os»'d war collapsed. The following May, (iei;cral \V»)ol, comman(hint of the Depart- ment of the Pacific, dis[)a(ched Major Ilaller with a strong (h'tach- ment t)f troops to guard the emigrant route from Fort Boise. Mis action was heartily j)raise(l by every owv, an<l he was in high feather with the people of Oregon until his conduct, a few months later, displeased them and lost hiui his jdace in j»ublic esteem, whether justly or not the circumstances will show. When Major Ilaller 864 lIISTOFiY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY. reached Fort B(.)ise lie held a council with the Indians of that re- gion. During its prt)gress four of the AV^innass Indians, the tribe which had connnittcd the massacre, came in to see what was going on. These were arrested as soon as the council was over, and tried by military court. One of tliem confessed and related the cireuni- stances, offering to conduct the troops to the hiding place of the tribe. Soon after doing this he broke from his guanl and ran toward the river, luit was killed by a bullet from St-rgj-ant Kille hard's gun. Th<' other three were coiidemiu'd to be executed on the scene of their crime. The next day the r«»nunaud mareh«'d to the place of execution, and, afttT biu'ying in one gravt- the bt)nt's «»f the murdered emigrants which had been dug u]» by c«»yotes, ereetetl a gallows over the mound and hanged all three at one time. The next morning they were cut down and buried, wliilr tlie gallows wius left standing as a warning to others who might feel disposed to murder miprotected i-migrants. The command then went into camp on Big Camas Prairie and remained during tlie sunmn-r, re- turning to The Dalles when the emigration had all passed through. CHAPTER XXII. THE OREAT OUTBREAK OF IWVi. Inability of Indiann to form a Coherent Comhiinttion — liofjae River, PiHjet Sound and ddumhia Hostilities Distinct and Sepantte—Iie- hition of Whites and Indians in Rogue Hirer Vulleij- -Controversy hetu^een General Wool and the Citizens — Incidents before the Outbreak — TTie Lnpton Affair - Quick Revenge of the^ Indians — Massacre of October 9th — Heroic Defense of Mrs. Harris — Great Excitement Pre- vails — A Review of the Situation— Causes which Led to the War on the Columbia — Indian Treaties nuule by Stevens and Palmer — They Mislead the People by Publishing Incorrect Statements of what they have Accomplished Discovery of Gold in, the Colville Region — Sauce for the Goose not Sauce^forthe Gander -Murder of Mattice—Ilegira from Colville and Walhi Walla — Murder if Indian Agent Jiolon — lli'gula/rs invade the Yakima Country— Defeat of Major Ilaller — Majirr Raines Calls for Volunteers — Governor Curry Calls for Ten Companies- -General WooPs Opinion of Governor Curry's Conduct — Another (^ause Assigned for the War — Excitement in Willamette Valley The " Ongonlan " and ''■Statesman'''' — Wars and Rumors of Wars Alarm the People. THE j^ivatcst Indian war known on the Pacific Coast wan the one — (»r, more j)r<>]»<'ily sjM'akint;, the three — which raged along the C^>hind)ia, around Pugct Sound, and in the region of Rogue Ikivcr from the fall of 1S55 to the summer of 185(i. No less than four thon^iand warrioi^s were at times in arms against the whites, and only a lack of hearty and intelligent co-operation on the part of the hostiles saved the outlying settlements from total annihila- tif»n, and the more populous communities of the Willamette Valley from all the horrors of V)arlmric warfare. Petty jealousies, ancient feuds, tribal antipathies, and a lack of confidence in the honor of their allies has always prevented the 366 IIIHTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLKT. formation or long oxistenfc of a strong ooml»ination among the abor- igines of Ann-rica. Trcat-licry is the ])n'<Ii>niinating trait of the Indian cliuractcr, jmd no one seems better aware of tliJit fact than the Indians themselves. No nnitter liow extensive an alliance some powerfnl and enlightened chief might he a])le to eftect, tril»al jealonw- ies and distrust soon hroke in j)ieces his rope of sand. 'Die Indians of America have been compelled to contend with tlie advancing tide of (^aiicasian supremacy, tril>e l»y trihe, as the wave of civilization reaihed and engulfed it and tlien rolled on to the next. In every struggle tliey have made to hreast and heat hack this mighty flood, they have found themselves opposed hy memhers of their own race, who helped to render futile their impotent eiTctrts. Not infrequently has it happened that, in the very heat o( the campaign, the treach- ery of allies has dashed t(» earth the fondest ho[>es of some great chief, whose voice had called to arms the warriors of neighboring tril)es. King Philip, Teeumseh, Hhick Hawk, Osceola, Captain Jack, Chief Joseph, Egan, and even Sitting Hull, each in his turn, saw members of his own race raise their weap«>ns against him and aid the white foe to crush him to the ground. Had it been other- wise the picket tires of Caucji-sian civilization might even now be burning on the summit of the Alleghenies, and the settlements on the Atlantic Coast only preserved from annihilation by a continuous line of fortitications from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf. A people So warlike, so brave, so intelligent, and so numerous, lacked only the ability to successfully combine to have checked there the ad- vancing wave of con([uest, and, })ossibly, to have rolled it back to the shore »»f the great Atlantic Sea. The almost simultaneous beginning of hostilities by the tribes so widely se])arated as those of Rogue River Valley and the I*lains of the Columbia, was at the time, regarded as conclusive evidence of an extensive and well-planned combination for the extermination of the settlements ; and this has l)een the ]»revailing opinion to the present day. T(> one who looks deep«'r than these surface indica- tions, and studies the various causes which led to the beginning of hostilities in the different regions, the <pu^stiou presents another aspect. lie sees that totally distinct causes were in operation to produce these effects, though, primarily, they sp'-ang from the one great fountain head ol all our Indian wars — the aggressiveness of THE OKKAT OUTBKEAK OF ElOIITEEN FIFTY-FIVK. 3«7 the hi^'her civUiziitioii nm\ thr riiitural rcsistunt'o of a wiirlikc p('(»|)lo t(» the cncroachiiit'iits of a siipcrioi" rare. It was an ctTort, in the one case, to expel white inti'U<h'rs fi-oiii the home of their aiieestnis, superinduced l>y s[)eeial acts of ill-treatment hy the invach-rs; and in tlie other case an attempt to ward off the same evils they saw had Kefallen the triUes of otlu'r re<;ions. The oidy eond>ination was amon<; the tribes livini; aion^ both sides of the Columbia, east of the Cascade Moimtains, and this was l»ut an incoherent union, man- ifested clwefly in a spasmodic and transient eo-operati(»n, bi'oui;ht about l)y a connnunity of interest an<l a similarity (»f Lrrievaiices. Had there been as thoroUi;;h a imion and as perfect a blendiiii^ of forces as was imaj^ined, the conse([uences to the settlements in the Willamette woidd have been fearful to contemplate. The u{)rising aloui; Rojxue liiver was distinct, and bi'ou<'ht about by local events, but occurriiii^ at the same time, the resources of the Terri- tory were severely taxed to conduct campaigns in two regions so remote from each other — where the machinery and organization of two separate and distinct armies ha<l tt> be maintained. This con- dition of affairs served, also, to divide the regular troops stationed here ])y the Government into detachments so small that they were totally unable to cope with the enemy. 'I'he outbreak along the southern and eastern shores of Puget Souml, was, no <loubt, a re- sult (if the hostilities across the mountains; or, to better define it, the Indians of the Sound took advantage of this favorable opjjor- tunity to make an attempt to l)reak ujt the settlements in their midst, while warlike tribes living to the north, in British Columbia, made hostile incursions in their war canoes, drawn hitlier by the supjMtsed defenseless cttnditicm of the people. The first outburst of war's destructive flame occurred in Kogue River Valley, and was l)ut a continuation of that fierce race conflict \>-hich began with the tirst advent of settlers into the valley, and e'lded only with the extermination or removal of the nativi pro- prietoi*8 of the soil. Here, more than at any other place, had race [.rsjudice been develoj)ed to its extreme })itch by four successive years of conflict, Indians were both despised and hated. The least "insolence" on their part met with swift retriliution, while on the other hand, indignities put upon them, even, in instances, to the taking of life, went uncondeumcd by the better portion ci thi' com- • • ® IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^128 |2.5 m 2.0 1^ 1^ - 6" 1.8 1.25 i 1.4 i 1.6 ?W/ ^ 'W ^T A- ^' •<?i % > . C/M t^r . ># V /^ Phoegi^iphic Sciences Corporatiun 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 'k 4-. & ^ ,*^o \ ■^ A 368 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. munity, and by the more irresponsible and less morally developed, were approved as being " good enough for them." There were many wlio deprecated this condition of affairs ; but Avhen they led to the inevitable outbreak, the relentless ferocity and barbarous cruelty of the savages soon united the whole community in one uni- versal demand for their extermination. When their property was being destroyed, their families threatened with death, and all the horrors of barbaric warfare were hovering over their homes, there was no time for moral philosophy, no time to inquire into the causes that had produced this terrible state of affairs. The natural instinct of self-preservation and a spirit of vengeance for the death of neigh- bors and frieiidn bound them together in a demand for retribution, and that the savage perpetrators of these horrible deeds be either exterminated or placed beyond the possibility of repeating them. The officei's of the regular army, whose duty it was to protect the people and keej) the Indians m subjection, were inclined to inquii'e more closely into the origin of these difficulties, and in their official reports frequently condemned irresponsible whites for precipitating the uprising which they were called upon to subdue. It was so in this instance, and Captains Judah and Smith and General Wool were severely condemned by the people and press of Oregon for their strictures upon the ante-bellum conduct of the white people; though it was their dilatory action and half-liearted method of conducting their campaigns which dre^v down upon them the severest criticism. Much of this was undeserved, yet it must be admitted that General Wool allowed himself to be governed too much by his opinion of the causes which led to the wars and not enough by the critical condition of affairs after liostilities had actually been commenced. Believing firmly that the whites were responsi})le for the outbreak, he considered that his duty only re- quired him to defend the settlements from attack, while, on the other hand, the people demanded of him an aggressive campaign. This led to a lack of harmonious action between the volunteers and regulars in the field, and to much abuse and misrepresentation. Passion, pride and prejudice seemed to hold su<^,h perfect sway, that newspaper editorials and communications, private cc^'respondence and official reports all passed beyond the limits of reliability. Had General Wool recognized the fact that, no matter what was the .'IS (jet THE GREAT OFTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY-FIVE. 369 origin of hostilities, tlie future security of the people required tliat ii severe castigation be adniinis^ ered to the turbulent tribes, and had he promptly entered upon the vigorous campaign he was afterwards compelled to make, his name ^vould now be revered in Oi'egon as is that of his successor — the noble Colonel AV'right. War having once been begun with savages, it was folly to adopt a defensive policy. Nothing but an aggressive campaign, ending in a complete defeat and humiliation of the enemy, can ever con(|uer a lasting peace with such a foe. General Wool should have known this and acted accordingly. He was right in condemning the conduct of the whites in drawing down upon innocent heads the vengeance of savages, but he was wrong in jiermitting this to interfere with tliat vigorous discharge of his duty as the commanding officer of this department, which the proper protection of those innocent heads demanded. A l)rief sunnnary of the events of the intercourse be- tween the two races in the llogue River Valley, between the close of hostilities in 1854 and tl'eir inauguration again the following year, will show that the severe war which then began was caused V»y the custom both the whites and Indians had of taking revenge for the killing of any of their number, by attacking parties not only innocent, but entirely ignorant, of the deed for which vengeance was being exacted. This hab'fc, and especially its manifestation in the Lupton affair, explain (xeneral Wool's strong condemnation of the men whom he charged with responsibility for the war. There were a few detached incidents in 1854, which could not be said to be associated in any way with a design on the part of the Indians to make war or commit outrages, yet they served to keep ali\e tlie general feeling of insecurity and spirit of hostility on the j)art of the whites. About the middh? of April Edward Phillips was murdered in his cabin on Applegate Creek, anil an investiga- tion showed that Indians had committed the deed for the purpose of robbery. Though this should have been considered an individual crime, as it would have been had the perpetrators l)een white men — and such acts by white men were by no means rare — it was charged to the general Indian account, to be settled, whenever op-' portunity occurred, with any Indians who might be so unfortunate as to be selected to balance the score. In September a number of people were killed by the members of Tipsu Tyee's band. An im- 370 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. migi'ant named Stewart was murdered while passing with his wagon along the trail. On the second of September an affray occurred in the upper part of Bear Creek Valley, Jackson County, which re- sulted in the death of a Avhite man and the wounding of two others. A few days previously Indians stole some horses from B. Alberding. The owner summoned his neighbors to assist in recovering them, and a very small company set out on the quest. Following the trail, they walked into an amljuscade and were fired upon. Granville Keene was killed, and Alberding, J. Q. Faber and another man were wounded. The party hastily retired, leaving the body of Keene where it fell. On the following day a detachment of troops from Fort Lane proceeded to the scene of the conflict and obtained the much mutilated remains, but the Indians, of course, were gone. The next event occurred on the twenty-fifth of September. On the previous day Harrison B. Oatman, Daniel P. Brittain and Cal- vin M. Fields started from Phcenix, each driving an ox-team loaded with flour destined for Yreka. Camping the first night near the foot of Siskiyou Mountain, the train started up the ascent in the morning. When within three hundred yards of the summit, Brit- tain, who was in the rear, heard five shots fired in the vicinity of the men in the advance. Hurrying up the rise he quickly came in sight of the teams, which were standing still, while an Indian was apparently engaged in stripping a fallen man. Turning })ack, Brit- tain ran down the mountain, followed by a bullet from the Indian's rifle, but made his way unhurt to the Mountain House, three miles from the scene of the attack. Six men hastily mounted and re- turned to the summit. Oatman, meanwhile had escaped to Hugiies' house, on the California side, and obtained help. He reported that a youth named Cunningham was passing Oatman and Fields when the attack was made, and that he wrs wounded at the instant Fields fell dead. The latter's body was lying in the road, stripped, but Cun- ningham was only found the next day, lying dead by a tree behind which he had taken refuge. On the following day Samuel Warner was murdered on Cottonwood Creek, not far from the scene of the other tragedy, and most likely by the same Indians. These repeated outrages produced a very considerable degree of alarm, but no military measures of importance were taken, except by the officials at Fort Lane, who sent forty mounted troops to the various scenes of bloodshed, who returned without having effected anjrthing. THE GREAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY-FIVE. 371 The first overt act in 1855 was comrjitted by a party of Illinois Indians, who crossed the mountains to Klamath River and robbed some cabins near Happy Camp, and then pi'occeded to Indian Creek and killed a man named Hill, or Hull, retreating to the head of Slate Creek with cattle they had stolen from Hay's ranch. Tliis was on the eighth of May, and on the following day Samuel Fijye set out from Hay's ranch with a force of eight men, and coming suddenly upon the culprits, killed or wounded three of them. He then returned for reinforcements, and returning with them the next day he found the enemy had taken advantage of the respite from attack to visit Deer Creek and kill a man named Philpot, and seriously wound James Mills. Settlers were thi'o\yn into a fever of apprehension, and hastily gathered into a stockade at Yarnall's. Lieutenant Switzer hastened from Fort Lane with a detachment of twelve men, and soon discovered that the Indians had murdered Jerome Dyer and Daniel McCae, on Applegate Creek, and escaped eastward. They were followed, captured and taken to Fort Lane, where they were placed under close guard, both for their protec- tion from the eni'aged citizens, and to prevent them fi'om escaping. The next event was what is known across the line in Siskiyou County as the " Humbug War." This had its origin in a shooting scrape between a citizen and a drunken Lidian", and consisted of the massacre of eleven innocent miners, and the indiscriminate killing of many innocent and inoffensive Indians by the whites of that region. The only connection it had with Oregon was the flight of a baud of Indians, among them the originator of the trouble, to Fort Lane, and their pursuit by five companies of volunteers from the Cali- fornia side. These made a demand upon Captain Smith for the fugitives, but the oflicer declined to surrender them to any one ex- cept the regular authorities, and though the exasperated volunteers threatened to take them by force, they thought better of that rash project and returned to California. Our account now approaches the beginning of the war of 1855-6, by some thought to have been the result of the incidents above re- counted. It is truly difficult at this time to accord these circum- stances their proper infiuence in the acts which followed. It is evident that the people of Eogue River Valley, toward the end of the summer of 1855, must have felt an additional degree of insecurity, ■M HISTORY OF WILLAMETTK VALLEY. >>ut that it was wholly in consequence of the murders which had )))'e\ioiisly taken place does not seem probable, inasmuch as these muidci's were committed outside the valley, and the most aggra- N'ated ones ueai'l}' a year before. Their legitimate results could liardly lia\e been suificient to stir up a geueral war against the Indians, so we are left to conjecture the gi'owth of a public senii- nient detei-iiiiued upon war. The vast majority of settlers, wearied of constant anxiety, heartily and unaffectedly believed that the re- moval of the Indians was desii-able and necessary. Whatever may ha\'e l)een the e.xact status of the war party, and whatever the in- fluence of the speculatixt' branch of it, it is clear there was no out- spoken o|)position, such as would have been created by a general sentiment in favor of peaceful methods. Almost the only outspoken advocate of Indians' rights was compelled to leave the country of liis adoption fi-om fear of personal violence. Whoever doubts the acerbity of jjublic sentiment at that date, will do well to pause here and digest that statement, comparing with it the tenor of the edito- rial remarks to be found in the Jacksonville Sentinel at that time. If such publications ma}- be trusted to gauge public sentiment, the Fi'elin*'' of absolute enmitv against the natives must have increased ten-fold since the signing of the Lane Treaty. This feeling of hos- tility was sufficient to cause the following outrage to receive the endoi'sement of a large portion of the community; and this was the incident wlii(;h (leneral AV'ool so freely criticised and strongly con- demned, and for doing which lie was so roundly abused l)v the press of Oregon. On the se\enth of October, ls.")5, a party of men, principally miners and men-about-town, in Jacksonville, oi-ganized and armed themselves to the number of a>>out forty (accounts disagree as to number), and under the nominal leadership of Captain Hays and Major James A. Lupton, Representative -elect to the Territorial Legislature, proceeded to attack a small band of Indians encamped on the north side of Rogue River, near the mouth of Little Butte Creek, a few miles above Table Rock. Lupton, it appears, w^as a man of no experience in bush fighting, but was rash and headstrong. It is the prevailing opinion that he was led into the affair through a wish to court popularity, which is almost the only incentive that could have occurred to him. Certainly, it could not have been THE GUKAT OUTBREAK OF KlftHTKEN FIKTY-FI V K. and rinl plunder; and the mere love of fighting Indians, wL'ch <h'ew tin- greater [)art of the force together, was, perhaps, absent in \m ease. The reason why the particular band at Butte Creek was selected as victims also appears a mystery, although the circumstances of their location being accessible and their numV>ers small, possibly were the ruling considerations. This band of Indians appear to have behaved themselves toleral)ly; they were pretty fair Indians, b\it beggars, and, on occasion, thieves. They had l)een concerned in no considerable outrages that ai-e distinctly specified. Tlie attack- ing party arri\"ed at the j-iver in the evening, and selecting a hi<liiig place, remained until daylight, the appointed time for the attack. The essential }>articu]ars of the fight wliich followed are. when separated from a tangle of contradictory minuti:e. that Lupton and his party fired a volley into the crowded encampment, following uj) tlie sudden and totallv nne.\'i)ected attack bv a ch>se encounter with knives, revolvers, and whatever weapon they were possessed of, and the Indians were driven away or killed without making much re- sistance. These facts are matters of evidence, as are also the kill- ing of several sc^uaws, one or more old decrepit men, and a num))ei'. probaldy small, of children. Captain Smith reported to the Gov- ernment that eighty Indians were slaughtered. Others place the number at thirty. The exact condition of things at the fight, oi" massacre, as some have characterized it, is difficidt to determine. Accounts vary so widely that by some it has l»een termed a heroic attack, and others have called it an indiscriminate l)utchery of de- fenseless and peaceful natives. To temporize with such occurrences -toes not become tliose who seek the truth only, and the world would be better coulfl such deeds meet at once the proper penalty and be kninvn by their proper name. Lupton was mortally wounded l)y an arrow which penetrated his lungs, and a young man named She]>her(l was slightly wounded. As usual, tlie storm of barbaric vengeance fell upon the heads of the innocent and de- fenseless. Swift and cruel was the revenge of the Indians for this great and unexpected otitrage which had been committed upon them, and the massacre of defenseless settlers, unAvanied of their danger, is one of the saddest pages of Oregon's pioneei- liistory. Language can not too strongly condemn the act which precipitated such a bloody scene, and much of the time and breath spent in 374 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. abuse of (jreneral Wool and execration of the Indians should have been devoted to the denunciation of this l)rutal and unwarranted act. Early on thn morning of October ninth, t^vo da} s after this affair on Rutte Creek, several of the more war-like bands gathered aV)out Tal)le Hock, and started down the river with their families, arms, and other property, bent on war. Tlieir first act was to murder William Goin, or Going, a teamster, native of Missoui'i, and em- ployed on the reservation. Standing by the fire-place in conversa- tion with Clinton Schieffelin, he was fatally shot, at two o'clock in the morning. The particular individuals wdio accomplished this killing were, says Mr. Schieffelin, members of John's band of Applegates, who \vere encamped on Ward Creek, a mile above its mouth, and twelve miles distant from the camp of Sam's band. Hurrying through the darkness to Jewett's Ferry, these hostiles, now reinforced liy the band of Limpy and Geoi'ge, found there a pack-train loaded with mill-irons. Hamilton, the man in charge of it, was killed, and another individual was severely wounded. They next began firing at Jewett's house, within which w^ere several persons in bed. Meeting with resistance, they gave up the attack and moved to Evans' Ferry, which they reached at daybreak. Here they shot Isaac Shelton, of the Willamette Valley, en route for Yreka. The next victim was Jones, proprietor of a ranch, whom they shot dead near his house. The house was set on fire, and Mrs. Jones was pursued by an Indian and shot wdth a revolver, when she fell senseless, and the savage retired, supposing her dead. She revived and was taken to Tufts' place and lived "a day. O. P. Robbins, Jones' partner, was hunting cattle at some distance from the house. Getting upon a stump he looked about him and saw the house on fire. Correctly judging that Indians were abroad, he proceeded to Tufts and Evans' places. The former place the Indians had already visited and shot Mrs. Tufts through the body, but being taken to Illinois Valley she recovered. Six miles north of Evans' Ferry the Indians killed two men who were transporting supplies from the W^illamette Valley to the mines. The house of J. B. Wagner was burned, Mrs. Wagner being previously mur- dered, or, as an unsubstantiated story goes, was compelled to remain in it until dead. This is refinement of horrors, indeed. For a time her fate was unknown, but it was finally settled thus. Mary, her THE GREAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY-FIVE. 375 little daughter, was taken to the Meadows, on Lower Rogue River, some weeks after, according to the Indians' own accounts, but died there. Mr. AVagner, being away from home, escaped death. Com- ing to Haines' house, Mr. Haines being ill in bed, they shot him to death, killed two children and took his wife prisoner. Her fate was a sad one, and is yet wrapped in mystery. It seems likely, from the stories told by the Indians, that the unhappy woman died about a week afterwards, from the effects of a fever aggravated by improper food. At about nine o'clock a. m. the savages approached the house of Mr. Harris, about ten miles north of Evans', where dwelt a family of four — Mr. and Mrs. Harris and their two children, Mary, aged twelve, and David, aged ten years. With them resided T. A. Reed, an unmarried man. Reed was some distance from the house, and was set upon l)y a party of hostiles and killed. His skeleton was found a year after. David, the little son, in all like- lihood, was taken into the woods by his captors and slain, as he was never after heard of. Mi-. Harris was surprised by the Indians, and retreating to the house, was shot in the breast as he reached the door. His wife, with the grcjatest courage and presence of mind, closed and barred the door, and in (jliedience to her wounded husband's advice;, brought dow^n the fire-ai'ms which the house con- tained — a rifle, a double-liarreled shotgun, a revolver and a single- barreled pistol — and began to fire at the Indians to deter them from assaulting or setting Are to the house. Previous to this a shot fired by the Indians had wounded her little daughter in the arm, and the terrified child climbed to the attic of the dwelling where she re- mained for several hours. Throughout all this time the heroic woman kept the savages at bay, and attended, as well as she was able, the wants of her husband, who expired in about an hour after he was shot. Fortunately, she had been taught the use of fire- arms; and to this she owed her preservation and that of her daughter. The Indians, who could be seen moving about in the vicinity of the house, were at pains to keep within cover and dared not approach near enough to set fire to the dwelling, although they burned the out-buildings, first taking the horses from the stable. Mrs. Harris steadily loaded her weapons and fired them through the crevices be- tween the logs. In the afternoon the Indians drew off and left the 37fi HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. stout-hearted woimin inistress of the field. She hiu\ saved her own and her daughter's life, and added a deathh'ss j)age to the record of the country's liistory. After the (h'parture of the savages, the heroine, with her (Uiughter, left the house and sought refuge in a thicket of willows near the road, and remained there all night. Next morning severjd Indians passed, but did not discover them. When, on the day of the massacre, a rider dashed int(» Jackson- ville and tpiickly told tlie news, great excitement j)ri'vailed. Al- most immediately a score of men were in th''ir saddles and pushing toward the river. Major Fit/.gei'ald, stationed at Fort Lane, went at the head of fifty-five mounted men, and these going with the volunteers, proceeded along the track of ruin and desolation left by the savages. At Wagiu'r's house sonu' five or six volunteers, who were in advance, came upon a few Indians hiding in the brush near by, who, unsusjjicious of the main body advancing along the road, challenged the whites to a fight. INFajor Fitzgerald came uj) and ordered a charge; and six of the "red devils" were killed, and the rest driven "on the jump" to the hills, but could not be overtaken. Giving up the pursuit, the regulars and volunteers marched along the road to the Harris house, where they found the devoted mother and her child and removed them to Jacksonville. A conqiany of volunteers led by Captain Rinearson, hastily came from Cow Creek and scoured the country about Grave ('reek and vicinity, finding quite a number oi bodies of nuirdered men. On the twenty-fifth of October the body of J. B. Powell, of Lafayette, Yamhill County, was found and buried. James White and Fox had been pre- viously found dead. All the houses along the Indians' route had y)een robbed and then burned, with two or three exceptions. It would be difficult to picture the state of alarm which pre- vailed when the full details of the massacre were made known. The people of Rogue River Valley, probably without exception, withdrew from their ordinary occupations and " forted up " or re- tired to the larger settlements. Jacksonville was the objective point of most of these fugitives, who came in on foot, on horse or mule back, or with their families, or more portable property loaded on wagons drawn by oxen. In every direction mines were abandoned, farms and fields were left unwatched, the herdsman forsook his charge, and all sought refuge from the common enemy. The in- THE OREAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY FIVE. 877 of dustries were brought to a standstill, ami tnide and coimiierce be- came instantly paralyzed. All business and plciisui-e were forsaken to devise means to meet and vaiKpiish the hostile bands. Nor was this state of affairs eoniined to the Rogue River country. The people of the AVillamette Valley caught the infection, and for a time the depi'essing expectation of Indian forays racked many a breast. Tiie Oregon papers of that date were full of matter calcu- lated to show the extreme state of ap[)r('hension existing throughout the State, caused by these events and outi-ages conuuitted at the same time by Indians north of the Columbia. It will he. believed that there was am|)le reason for such a feeling among those who lived south of the Calapooias. The settlers on the llmp(pia and its tributaries were obviously endangered. They retired to places of safety until the Indian scare had settled down to a steady wai'fare. At Scottsburg, more than a hundred miles from the seat of war, the inhabitants thus took refuge. On Cow Creek on tlie twenty-fourth of October, Indians made an attack <m some hog-drovers from Lane County, who were traversing the road. H. Bailey was killed in- stantly, and Z. Bailey and three others wt>unded. The Indians bm'iied, on that day, the houses of Turner, Bi-ay, Fortune, Redlield, and one other. Mr. Redfield placed his family in a wagon and started for a place of safety, l)ut soon his horses \vere shot, and he took his wife upon his l)ack and carried her to a fortified place, be- fore reaching which she was wounded. It should be remarked that the situation in Southern Oregfon was even more serious than was thought possilde ])y those who viewed these affairs from abroad, or through the distorting medium of the newspapers. The people were beset on all sides l)y sa\ages, tliey knew not how numerous, who might strike, they knew not where. The extent of the Indian uprising was not at first under- stood. The Indians were well supplied with anununition, and had guns, rifles, revolvers and knives, as great in assortment and better in quality than the whites themselves were provided with. Besides, of the several thousand Indians who inhabited Southern Oregon, no one could tell which band might dig up the hatchet and go on tlie war path in imitation of those who were already so actively butch- ering and burning. The Table Rock band, steadfastly friendly, withstood the temptation to avenge their undoubted grievances, and 378 HI8T0RY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. remained upon the reservation, tlu!re))y diminii^hing the enemy's force very considerably. The Coast Indians, formidable and dangerous barbarians, as yet had not been influenced to join the malcontents. To opposi; such an array of active murderers and in- cendiaries, the General drover nnent had a snuill number of troops, unfitted to perform the chities of Indian fighting by reason of their unsuitable mode of divss, tactics, and their dependence upon ([\u\v- termaster and connuissary trains. The formation of volunteer com- panies and the enrollment of men, began inunediately upon 'Jie receipt of the news of the outbreak. The chief settlements became centers of enlistment, and to them resorted the farmers, miners, and traders of the vicinity, who, with the greatest unanimity, enrolled themselves as volunteers to carry on the war which all now saw to be unavoidable. On the tv,v]fth of October, Jolm E. Iloss, Col- onel of the Ninth Regiment of Oregon Militia, assumed command of the forces already raised. Recognizing the need of mounted troops, lie made proclamation calling into service men provided with liorses and arms, and in two days had increased his command to nine companies, aggregating five huiuh-ed men. Several of these companies had ])een on iluty from the day succeeding the nuissacre, so prompt did theii' memlx'i's respond to the call of duty. The reg- iment was increased by the first of Novembei' to fifteen companies, containing an average of fifty men each, or seven hundred and fifty in all. It is justly thought remarkable that such a force could have been so quickly raised in a country of such a limited population as Southern Oregon. If we examine the muster-rolls of the different companies Ave shall be struck by tlie youth of the volunteers — the average age being not beyond tAventy-four years. From all direc- tions they came — these young, prompt and brave men= — from every gulch, hill-side and plain, from every mining claim, trading post and farm of that extensive region, and from the s^'mpathizing towns and mining camps of Northern California, which, also, sent their contin- gents. Their animals were gathered from pack-trains, farms and towns, and were in many cases unused to the saddle. But the exi- gencies of war did not allow the rider to hesitate bet\veen a horse and a mule, or to humor the whims of the stubborn mustang or in- tractable cayuse. With the greatest celerity and promptness the single organizations had hui'ried to the rescue of the outlying settle- .jfTik^'^A THE GREAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY-FIVE. 379 menta, and in immy ciiscs preserved the livi-s of settlers nieiuieed })y Indiiins. Captain Uineai'son, at Cow Creek, enrolled thirty-five men on the day following the nui.^saere, and hy nightfall had stationed his men so as to effectually guard many miles of the road, leaving men at the Canyon, at Levens' Station, at Turnei-'s, and a strong foi'ce at ITarkiiess and TwogexHl's Grave Creek House, and sending others down (irave Creek and to (laleee Creek. By this prompt display of force fhe Indians were overawed, and refrained from exposing themselves by continuing their raids in the valley; and the peojde, seeing such an armed force in their midst, began to regain calmness and coniidence. Having considered tiie various incidents Avnich led to the out- break in iSoutlu'rn Oregon, we will leave the nuisVering hosts and turn to the north to review the causes tf the war along the Colum- bia. The totally different condition of affairs renders it self-evident tliat hostilities here were beu:un without the sliifhtest reference to what was being done to the south. Their concurrent hajtpening was simply a coincidence, and there is no reason to sujipose that either would not have occui-red had the other in any manner been prevented. Among the Yakimas, Klickitats, Des Chutes, Walla Wallas, Cayuses, Spokanes, Palouses, Snakes and kindred tribes, the hostility to Americans was deep-rooted and of long standing; and even the Nez Perces were beginning to imbibe the infection. The cause of this has been made to plainly appear in the preceding pages — the fear that the Americans intended to take their lands. This was the great fundamental cause of the AVhitman tragedy in 1847, and was the secret of the ill favor with which a "Boston'' met in the eye of an Indian of that region. The Hudson's ]?ay Company was nt)t included in this feeling of hostility to the Ameri- cans, and even during the times of trouble a well-known employee of that corporation could travel among the hostile tribes in perfect security. The Bostons had not as yet taken up claims in that re- •gion, and the Indians did not propose to permit them to do so until the land was purchased and paid for. Brooke, Bumford and Noble Lad a claim at Waiilatpu, and H. M. Chase on the Touchet. Wil- liam C. McKay, son of Thomas McKay, and looked upon as a com- pany man, had located on the Umatilla, and with him were Jones E. Whitney and family. A short distance below them was the 380 HISTORY OF WIT,LAMKTTE VALLEY. agency. Louis Raboin, ah old American trapper of French descent, was living on the Tukannon. The only other settlers were a number of French Canadians and half-breeds, former servants of the company, and nearly all married to Indian women, the greater numl)er living along the Walla AValla, These were the only settle- ments in the Walla Walla region. As early as February, 18.55, reports of a hostile spirit being ex- hibited by the Indians east of the mountains, were circulated, and trouble in the near future was predicted. One of the incidents where this feeling was displayed was in the case of S. M, Hamilton and T. Pierce, who, al)out that time, went to the Simcoe country to locate a stock ranch. The Yakimas woidd not permit them to do so, and informed them that Aia<n*icans could not st^ttle in their country until the Government had bought and paid for the land. In consequence of this feeling, \vhich was displayed by the varioiLs tribes on different occasion?;, Governor Stevens, of Washington Territory, in his capacity of Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and Joel Palmer, Superintendent of Indian Affair? for Oregon, started on an extended trip through that region, intent upon forming treaties with the tribes and extinguishing the Indian title to the country. After a long confei'ence near Fort W alia Walla, they concluded treaties the ninth of June, with seventeen tribes, by which was ceded to the Government nearly all the region em])raced in Klickitat, Yakima, Kittitas, Spokane, Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, Franklin, Whitman, Columbia and Walla Walla counties, in Wash- ington Territory, and a portion of Union and Umatilla counties, in Oregon, excepting the Yakima and Umatilla reservations. The area thus lost to the Indians was a little over t\venty-nine thousand square miles, for which they were to be paid as follows: The fourteen tribes termed the "Yakima Nation,'' including the Palouse Indians, with Kama-i-akun as head chief, were to l)e given $200,000. This wa.s to be paid in yearly installments — during the first five $10,000, the next five $8,000, then $G,000 for five years, and for the last five $4,000 — jiayments to commence in September, 1856. This left $60,000 which were to be expended in getting these tribes on their reservation, for fitting it up and to aid them in learn- ing the art of husbandry. In addition to this the head chief of the nation was to have a house built for him, with ten acres of land THE GREAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY-FIVE. 381 enclosed and . plowed, and he was to be paid $500 per year for twenty years as a salary. To the Indians generally this was a glit- tering temptation, hut Kama-i-akun was hostile to the transaction and used his influence against it without avail. From that time until his death he was never friendly to the whites, and later with- drew from the war-path against th.^m only for want of followers. Fourteen chiefs in all signed this agreement, ann)ng whom was the unwilling Kama-i-akun. The Walla Wallas, Cayuses and Uma- tillas, were to be paid $100,()()(t for their l)irth-right, with a twenty years' annuity of $o(»0 to tlie head chief of each of those tribes. But for the blood stain upon their hands of a murdered \\'^hitman, the Cayuses would not have sold their country to the whites. The Umatillas, knowing they were not guiltless in that affair, and looking to the reward offered for compliance, placed their names to the treaty. The Walla Wallas, too weak for resistance, reluctantly joined in the transfer of their homes, and thirty-six chiefs from among the three tribes signed the conveyance. Peu-peu-mox-mox, chief of this last mentioned tribe, was sullen and would not talk. He remembered that his own son had been educated at the mission; had visited California by invitation of Captain J. A. Sutter; had been as wan- tonly and maliciously murdered while in that gentleman's fort as liad been Dr. Whitman among the Cayuses; and he no longer courted their friendship or believed in their promises. A special clause was placed in the treaty giving this chief })ermission to build a trading post at, or near, the mouth of the Yakima River, which he could occupy for five years and trade with the whites. He was to be paid his first year's salary on the day he signed the treaty, and the other chiefs had to wait. A h(nise was to be built for his liv- ing son, around which Hve acres of land were to be plowed and en- closed, ?'.nd he was to be paid annually $100 for twenty years. In addition to all this, Peu-peu-mox-mox was to be given, within three months, "three yoke of oxen, three yokes and four chains, one wagon, two plows, twelve hoes, twelve axes, two shovels, one sad- dle and bridle, one set of wagon harness, and one set of plow har- ness." None of the other chiefs received promise of like privileges or payments, and it is a striking evidence of the necessity that existed for obtaining the influence of this evident leader among the tribes at the council. The two treaties were signed on the ninth of 382 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. June, 1855, at Camp Stevens within the limits of what now is Walla Walla City. Then Stevens and Palmer opened negotiations with th(; Ne:z Perces, who had been present since the gathering of the tribes at this great council. On the eleventh of that same month these old and tried friends of the An'oi-jcans, who had been one of the strong powers to influence the other tribes to cede their lands in the two treaties of the ninth, conveyed their immense do- main to the Government, withholding a rather extensive reserve. Their territory, about one-fourth of which was retained, included over eighteen thousand sipiare miles; and they were to be paid for it in annuities through a term of twenty years, a total of $'200,000. In addition, the liead chief was to be paid $500 per year for twenty years, and the tribe was to receive other l^enefits tending toward civilization. Fifty-eight chiefs signed it, among whom were Law- yer, Looking (irlass, and Joseph. At the close of this coimcil at Walla Walla Governor Stevens started for Colville, accompanied by a few Americans and a body-guard fi'om this tribe. The Indians in that region refused to sell their lands. The Governor passed over the Bitterroot ]Vrovuitalns and concluded a treaty with the Flathead Nation on the sixteenth of July, by which they ceded over twenty thousand scpiare miles of territory to the Government, less a reservatiim. The tribes constituting the Flathead Nation in- cluded the Flathead, Kootenai, and Upper Pend d'Oreilles. In addition to the $200,000 there were to be a $500 salary paid to the head chief of each of those tribes annually for twenty years, and the other usual advances to the nation for educational and agricultural purposes. Over this nation the Catholic missionaries had an almost unlimited control, and, had they opposed it, no treaty could have been efPected. From among the Flatheads, Governor Stevens passed Vjeyond the Eocky Mountains to treat with the Blackfeet. When the treaties had been signed at the. Walla Walla council and Governor Stevens had started north, Joel Palmer returned to The Dalles, where he induced the Wascoes, Des Chutes, and John Day Rivers to cede their lands to the Government, on the twenty- fifth of June, for $150,000. Payment was to be divided into annu- ities that would reach that amount in twenty years, with salaries to chiefs and advances for improvements similar to those contained in the other treaties. The land ceded by these tribes, from M^hich THJE GREAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY-FIVE. 383 should be deducted their reservation at the eastern base of Mount Jefferson, included over sixteen thousand square miles. Each of these treaties contained the following clause: "This treaty shall be obligatory upon the contracting parties as soon as the same shall be ratified by the President and Senate of the United States." It is thus seen that neither the Avhites nor Indianu were bound by the provisions of the treaties until they had been so rati- fied, and tiie usual dilatoriness of Congress postponed that event until the eighth of March, 1859, Nevertheless Governor Stevens and Superintendent Palmer caused to l>e immediately pul'iished in the Oregon papers an official announcement that tliey had "con- cluded treaties," by means of which they liad extinguished the Indian title to all the country except the reserves, whose bounda- ries they gave, and notifying the people that the actual settlements and improvements of the Indians must not be molested until such time as they were officially removed to the reservations, whicli, of (jourse, though they did not so state, could not be done untii the treaties were made binding upon the contracting parties by formal ratification. Mr. Palmer expressly stated in a notice dated July 10, 1855, that all the country east of the summit of the Cascade Mountains, and from latitude 44" north to Kettle Falls, excepting the reservations, was " open to settlement." Such was not the case; and for thus giving the people an incorrect idea of what had been accomplished, Governor Stevens and Superintendent Palmer are justly chargeable with a large share of responsibility for the hostil- ities which followed. The Indians did not so understand it, and their views were correct. The effort which had been made to ac- quire their lands in this wholesale manner had caused universal dissatisfaction among them, and deepened their ill-will toward the Americans. The chiefs had signed the treaties reluctantly, and their conduct, though acquiesced in, was not approved by their followers. In such a frame of mind they would not submit to any infringement of their rights under those documents, and, until their terms had been compb- ^ " ''.i, did not propose to permit any settlements to be made on me ceded lands. They even determined to exclude the Americans from the privilege previously enjoyed of passing through the country. Ihe people were thus led by this injudicious con- duct of pompous officials, to claim rights they did not possess and which the Indians would not admit, and trouble naturally followed. 384 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Only a few days subsequent to the signing of the treaties at Walla Walla, an event occiiiTed which placed the relations between the whites and Indians in a still more precarious and strained con- dition. This was the reported discovery of gold at the junction of the Columbia and Pend d'OreiPe rivers, thirty miles from Fort Colville, a post of the Hudson's Bay Company. The discoverers were fonr P'rench Canadians who had gone on a prospecting trip to that region from French Prairie the preceding March, induced so to do by one of their number, a half-breed named Wau-ka, who had found color on the river. Small parties began leaving for the mines, and as reports of the richness and extent of the diggings be- came circulated, the number of these' adventurers increased. Wells, Fargo & Co. sent an agent to examine them, and his report was to the etfect that the mining ground was very extensive, but the gold so fine that it could not be panned or cradled to advantage; sluices and quicksilver would be required; also that the water in the river was too high for successful mining at that season Exaggerated re- ports, however, continued ti find their way into piint, and, in a few weeks, travel to the Colville Mines became quite extensive. Parties from the Willamette Valley went by way of The Dalles and Sinicoe Valley at first, and later through Walla Walla and the Palouse Country; while those from the Sound crossed the mountains by the Natchess Pass, and headed direct for the mines. In the frame of mind in which ihe Indians tlieu were, this was more than they could stand. The treaties had not been ratified and were not yet in force; every inch of the country belonged to the native pi'oprie- tors as completely as before the signing of the compact. Not a plow nor a hoe, not a cow nor a dollar of money, had they received ; and yet the whites were streaming through their country and talk- ing and acting as though the Indians had no rights in the matter whatever. General Wocl charged these men as interfering' with the Indian women, and thus precipitating hostilities; but that charge was never sustained, though such conduct as that has been one of the most fruitful causes of trouble between the two races. It is not necessary, however, to account for the war in that manner, since there was ample cause without. The ideas the Indians enter- tained on the subject of white occupation, have been explained. The Yakima tribes, under the leadership of Kama-i-akun, now de- THE GREAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY- FIVE. 385 termined that no white men should reside in, or pass through, their country until the treaties had been ratified and the purchase price of their lands been paid. This determination they made known on several occasions. About the middle of July a man named Mc- Cormick, who had a claim on Klickitat River at a point known as " St. Charles City," was driven from his place, and spent a day and night in a treetop on the bank of the Columbia, when the steamer Mary came along and took him aboard. The Indians sent word that whites would not be permitted to settle on their lands until they had been paid for. About the same time Pierre Jerome, chief of the Indians of Kettle Falls, refused to permit A. F. AVilson, the man whom Wells, Fargo <fe Co. had sent to inspect the mines, to go from Colville to Pend d'Oreille River, saying that Americans would not be permitted to pass through or mine in th6 couutiy until the land was paid for by the Government; also that all the tribes named would hold a "big talk" in August on the subject. This great council was never held, but that, in some way, the various tribes alouu; tlie Columbia arrived at a mutual under- standing of what they would do in certain events, was made evident by their conduct a few months later. The people, as has been shown, had not been notified that, as yet, the treaties were not in force, and that they liad thereby ac- quired no rights they did not previously enjoy. On the contrary, they looked upon the hostile position assumed by the Indians a** utterly unjustifiable, and in direct violation of rights conferred by ti'eaty. This idea appears prominently in all contemporaneous writings and in subseipient discussions of the war and its causes, esj)ecially in those evoked by the unfavorable reports and comments of General Wool. Looking at it from this stand-point, they were nuich excited in August when the Statesman published a rumor that seventy men had been killed in the Colville country, though this was promptly contradicted. A few days later, when the news of the murder of Mattice was received, they became still more so, and charged the Indians with violating treaty obligations. Mr. Mattice was a resident of Olympia, and with Judge Yantis and others, crossed the mountains in August on his way to the mines. When near the Columbia, Mattice became separated from his com- panions and soon fell in with a Spokane Indian, whi> traveled \\ 386 HISTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. with him. Not long afterwards four Isle de Pere Indians overtook them and sliot Mattice, boasting to his companion that they had already killed three Bostons that day. News of the tragedy was taken to Colville by the Spokane and did not reach the Willamette \alley until late in September. Much apprehension was felt for the safety of a score of ttthers from Puget Sound, who were known to be passing through the hostile country. The agent of tlie Hud- son's Bay Company at Fort Colville, Mr. McDonald, on the twenty- sixth of August, sent a messenger to the mines notifying the Amer- icans of the death of Mattice and that the Indians were combining, and advising them to leave the mines unless they w^ere prepared to defend themselves against large numbers. Many had previously started upon their return, disgusted with the mines, and now nearly all of the remainder took McDonald's advice and returned by the way of Walla Walla, reporting the Indians along the route as being very sui-ly and threatening in their conduct. Whitney, at McKay's place on the Umatilla, was warned by Stick-as and Umhowlish, two Ca>use chiefs, that it was unsafe for him to remain, and was told that they had given Dr. Whitman a similar warning before his death. lie hastened with his family to The Dalles, and the few other Americans in that region did the same, or took refuge with the friendly Nez Perces. The French and half-breed settlers re- mained, being considered Hudson's Bay Company men, and soiLe of the later arrivals from Colville, among whom M'ere McKay and Vic. Trevitt, only passed saffely through by representing themselves as employees of the company. In the absence of Grovernor Stevens, the Secretary, C. H. Mason, discharged the duties of executive. On the twenty-second of Sep- tember he addressed a communication to Major G. J. Raines, com- mandant at Fort Vancouver, informing him of the murder of Mr, Mattice and the reported death of a number of others, and request- ing him to dispatch a military force to tlie Yakima country to punish the aggressors and protect the small parties of minei-s travel ■ ing through that region. A. J. Bolan, Indian Agent for Washing- ton Territoi'y, a man who had great influence among the Yakimas and for whom they entertained great respect, started for that region from The Dalles as soon as he heard of the first hostile acts, and as no word was received from him for a number of days it was feared THE OBXAT OUTBREAK OF EIGHTEEN FIFTY-FIVE. 387 he had been killed by his wards. Governor Mason had hardly dispatched his letter before intelligence was received at Olympia that two citizens of that place — Walker and Jamison — had been killed near the Natchess Pass. He at once made a requisition upon Captain M. Maloney, commanding Fort Steilacoom, for a detach- ment of regulars to proceed to the Yakima country and pnnish the perpetrators of these murders and protect the straggling parties passing through. Lieutenant W. A. Slaughter was detailed for this duty with forty men; and departed on the twenty-seventh of September with forty days' rations. Mason addressed a second letter to Major Raines on the twenty-sixth, infurniing him of the new developments, and requesting him to send a military force to co-operate with Lieutenant Slaughter. To this Major Raines re- plied as follows:- — Governor— Your letter by Mr. Pearson I have the honor to iicknowledge, and have ordered into the field a company of eighty-four men from Fort Dalles, O. T., all mounted, and with provisions on pack mules for one month, to proceed without delay and sweep through the Yakima country to the points you indicated, co-oper- ating with the force from Steilacoom ; also, to inciuire into the safety of Agent Bolan, who has now been absent an unusual length of time ; a respectful attention to whose views are enjoined— if alive— for there are grounds to fear otherwise. I shall approve of the action of the commanding officer at Fort Steilacoom in the premises, and only regret that the forty men under Lieutenant Slaughter were not a full company. I have also located an officer and twenty men at the Cascades. This expedition was placed under the command of Major G. O. Haller, a brave and expeiienced officer who had just returned from a successful campaign in Southwestern Idaho against the Snake Indians who had murdered the Ward family the fall before. Pre- vious to his departure the fate of Agent Ri)lan was settled. Nathan Oliiey, Sub-agent in Oregon, had dispatched from The Dalles a trusty Indian to bring him intelligence of the missing man. He re- turned with the startling report that seventeen men had been killed (never substantiated), and that Bolan had l)een murdered. The Agent had threatened the Indians with punishment by the troops unless they refrained from molesting the whites who passed through their country. When he left t() return he was followed by several of them, and a son of Show-ah-way, an influential chief, shot him. His throat was then cut, and the murderers shot his horse and burned the two bodies together. About the same time, Werbaanahan, a Cascaded chief, came into the settlement there and reported that 38S HISTOUY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. five buiKlred Yakinms and Klickitats were within fifteen miles of White Sahnon, and at once the military detachment located there end»arked on the steamer Wasco and proceeded to the mouth of tljat ri\('r, only to find their presence there useless, and at once returned. On the third of Octolter, Major Mailer's force, t-onsisting of one hundi-ed and seven, rank and file, started north from 'J'he Dalles, drairging with them a mountain howitzei". News of this movement, of the death of liolan, and tlie White Salmon canard, reached Port- land at the same time and created much excitement throughout the Valle}-. 'J'liis force marc-hed north, and on the sixth encountered a strong body of Indians on Simcoe Creek. By a (hishing charge the savages were dislodged fi-oni the brush along the stream, bnt the fortunes t>f battle soon turned, and tlie trf>ops were forced to take refuge on the crest of a neighboring hill, where they were inmie- diately surrounded by the enemy, whose nundter was estimated at one thousand warriors. A courier succeeded in slipping through tlie envii oning savages, and after two days of fatigue and danger, reached The Dalles with intelligence of the precarious position of the troops. Lieutenant Day at <'nce started to their relief with forty-five men and a liowitzer, but soon met the troops in full re- ti'eat. Unal)le to maintain their position, they had forced a passage through the enemy's lines and fought their way out of the country, losing, in the whole fight, five of their number killed and seventeen wounded. On the ninth Major Raines nnide a recjuisition upon Governor Mason for two companies of volunteers, and addressed a communi- cation to Governor Geoi-ge L. Curry, of Oregon, containing the following language ; — Aw cuiiimanding officer, J have ordered all the United States disposable force in this district into the field immediately, and shall take the command. As this force is questionable to subdue these Indians — the Yakinms, Klickitats, and may be some other smaller bands — I havj the honor to call upon you for four companies of vol- unt«ers, composed, according to our present organization, of one captain, one first lieutenant, one second lieutenant, four sergeants, four corporals, two musicians, and seventy-four privates. This number of companies is just enough for a major's command, and would authorize that officer also. We have only arms enough at this post for two companies, so it is advisable to have two of the four companies come armed with rifies, or such arms as can best be obtained. We have plenty of ammunition, however. As celerity is the word, we want as many of the volunteei-s as can be immediately obtained, to rendezvous at this post, and i)roceed with the troops to Fort Dalles. They can be mu3te."ed here. THE OHKAT fUTBKKAK OK KKillTKKN FIFTY-FIVK. 3S1I (lovcnior Mason at once issued a proclamation for two com- panies, wliicli were speti»lily filled, (rovernor C'urry did better. Instead of four companies he called for eight — one each from Mult- nomah, Clackamas, Wasliington, Marion, Polk, Yamhill, Lane and Wasco — and a few days later added a company from Benton and another from Frei.'ch Settlement, in Marion County ; the last l^eing designed for seout and guide duty. Just why this was done is not perfectly clear, hut it was charged at the time that he proposed to render the regulars auxiliary to the militia instead of the reverse, and therefore desired companies enough to require a colonel, who would outrank Major Raines. It was also charged that speculaticm was an impoi'tant factor here as well as in Southern Oregon, and that ever since the gloi-ious trip of the year before " to tight the emigrants," the powers thiit were, and tlieir friends, 'looked upon an Indian war as a l)onaii/a of considerable proportions. This may be doing the memoi'y of the executive and his advisers an injustice, but certain it is, even if that element was not then present, it cropped out later, and with sufficient pr<miinence to give color to the suspi- cion of its existence from the very beginning. It is proper here to give another version of the cause of hostili- ties and the reason for this rather wholesale calling to arms by (Tovernor C-urry. (reneral Wool, in a lett<'r to the National Intel- ligencer^ under date of April 12, IMiiG, detailed the situation in Oregon from his stand -point. This is one of the letters which drew down upon his devoted head such a storm of indignation, which will be more fully referred to in its proper place. In it hj says: — It is said that tlio Yaivinuis liaving become dissatisfied with the treaty made witii tlieni the surniuer liefore l)y Governor Stevens, determined on war. This was hastened, as it would seem, by some miners forcibly varryiug away and ill treating some Yakima s(|uaws. Tlie Yaltimas, according to their own story, complained of this wronjj to A. .1. Holan, .Siib-lixlian Agent, who was at that time in tlie Indian country, and demanded redress. An altercation took place, when the Indians threatened revenge. The agent, in turn, threatened to send against them troops of the United States. It was under such circumstances that the agent and the Indians separated. The former, however, was followed and overtaken by the Yakimas, when they demanded to know if he intended to send the troops of tlic United States against them. On answering them in the affirmative, as the Indians saj% they killed him, and afterwards, as reported, some miners on their way to tlie t'ol- ville mines. * * * fhe Major, however, partaking somewhat of the alarm pervading the country, increased and stimulated by political demagogues, called upon Acting-Governor Mayon for two companies of volunteers, which was 300 HISTOKV OF WII.LAMF.TTK VALLKT. promptly and fa voriil)ly roHimiided to; and upon Governor Curry, of Oregon, for four (iompunies, whicli he refused, Iteeause, as he said, the Orenonians would no* serve under United States olHcers. At the same time he ealled into the Territorial service two mounted re^fiments — one to serve against the Indians of Waslilngton Territory, and the oilier against the Indians in Southern Oregon. Of the former, no part of it, in any sense of the term, was necessary to defend tlie inhabitants of Oregon against tlie 1 udians in Washington Territory, east of the Cascade MountainB, from whom they had no danger whatever to apprehend. * * * guch have been the results of one of the most unwise, unnecessary and extravagant expedi- tions ever fitted out in the United States, and for no other reason than to plunder the treasury of the United States and to make political (capital for somebody. It could not have been projected for the defense of the inhabitants of Oregon, nor for the protection of Oregonians in Wasliington Territory, for none resided there. What, then, could have been the object? Notliing luit a crusade against the Tiidians, and a long war to enrich the country. If such was not the object. Governor (,'nrry. Instead of sending his troops against the Indians of Washington Territory and beyond his own jurisdiction, would have sent them all to Southern Oregon, where the war raged, and no where else in his territory. Tlie Oregonians say that the war is a Godsend to the country. * * ♦ It is said by intelligent men that the expenses of Governor Curry's army will amount, in scrij), to three or four millions of dollars. If Congress should foot the bill, some Governor of another Territory will make a bill of ten millions. I do not know how the ((uestion will be con- sidered. One thing, liowever, is certain, tliat it is an example which, if counte- nanced by the United States Government, may, when leati. expected, lead to no less embarrassing than disastrous results. In the "River of the West," the author, who evidently was in- spired by the communications and reports of General Wool, thus speaks upon this subject: — But when at last the call to arms was made in Oregon, it was an opportunity sought and not an alternative forced upon them by the politicians of that Territory. The occasion was simply this: A party of lawless wretches from the Sound Country passing over the Cascade Mountains into the Yakima Valley, on their way to the Upper Columbia mines, found some Yakima women digging roots in a lonely place and abused them. The women tied to their village and told their chiefs of the outrage, and a party followed the guilty whites and killed several of them in a light. Mr. Bolan, the Indian- Sub-Agent for Washington, went to the Yakima vil- age, and, instead of judging the case impartially, made use of threats in the name of the United States Government, saying that an army should be sent to punish them for killing his people. On hia return home, Mr. Bolan was followed and murdered. The murder of an Indian Agent was an act which could not be overlooked. Very properly the case should have been taken notice of in a manner to convince the Indians that murder must be punished. But, tempted by an opportunity for gain, and encouraged by the somewhat reasonable fears of the white population of Wash- ington and Oregon, Governor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at once proclaimed war, and issued a call for volunteera, witliout waiting for the sanction or assistance of the General Government. Though the camas incident may have occurred, it has not been established by proof; and even if an actual occurrence it was but an incident and not a sole cause of trouble. For this contracted THE GKKAT niTHKKAK OF EKiHTKEN FIFTV-FI V K. 891 and superficial view, General Wool, who was a stranger and un- familiar with the relations the whites and Indians had previously sustained toward each other, may, perhaps, he considered excusable. He probably acted " to the best of his knowledge and belief." His course waw certainly better than the other extreme ad<»pted by (Governor Curry. The excitement and panic created in the Willamette \' alley can hardly l>e ap[)reciated at this distant day. News of the terrible straits to which Major Haller wa.s reduced, and of Major Raines' call for aid, was followed two days later by intelligence of the ter- rible niassncre in the Rogue Rivei* Valley, already described. It was at once ass<'rted, and generally believed, that all the Indians in Oregon and Washington had combined to wage a war of extermina- tion against the settlements. The Orcgonian especially was a panicy paper, filling its columns with all the absurd rumors which menda- cious schemers or timid idiots might invent or conceive. Other papers seconded the hot-headed Dryer in his efforts to create a \var feeling among the people, with the exception of the Statesman; and this exception was caused by the simple fact that Bush, its editor, always esjioused the negative of any question upon which Dryer had pronounced in the affirmative. It was somewhat anomalous and parad*)xical in this case, since the Statesman was the apf)stle of Democracy, and the Territorial (Tovernment was completely in the hands of that party, which would, conseciuently, control all appoint- ments and the It^tting of all contracts — as sul>se(iuent events 2:)roved that it did. On the contrary the Oregonian, a.- .iie organ of the Whig, or American, party, could hope for no benefit for itself or friends, save such as might come indirectly, V)ecause the " war was a Godsend to Oregon.'' By warmly advocating the war, and then as hotly criticising its management by the Democratic officials and con- tractors, \\'hile not forgetting at the same time to be-stow unlimited praise u{)on " the brave men in the field," the Oregonian made itself extremely popular. This was an astute piece of journalism, and it may be said that the Oregonian here laid the foundation for its subsequent greatness and prosperity. To enumerate the various rumors which flew about the \'alley, racking the nerves of the timid and rousing the martial ardor of the more warlike, would be impossible. The same evening the start- 35)2 HlfHTOKY OK WILLAMKTTK VAl-LKT. ling intelllgent't' vvjw hrouglit into Portland thnt Major Haller was defeated, a rumor was spread tliat the ('aseades was threatened and thnt six hundreil Indians were opposite St. Helens. Hastily a meet- ing was called, excited and warlike speeches made, a committee of safety appointed "to keep an eye on the Indians in and aV)out the city," and another to enroll the names of volunteei-s. Quite a com- pany was raised before the canard was explode*'. Throughout the whole valley there was a general prejiaration for defense, extending from the simple inspection of tire-nrms to the l)uildingof stockades, according jus the panic took deep or shallow hold upon the in- dividual. The Metho<lists of Tualatin Plains, in Washington County, apparently more exposed to annihilation l)y lightning than attack by Indians, constructed a stockade around their church, and pre- pared for a defense of their families within the protecting wall of pickets. The following extract from an editorial in the Statesman of October 25, two weeks after the excitement began, throws much light upon the subject: — * * * The idea that Indians are going to attacli tlie Willamette towns or settlements is groundless and silly in the extreme, and it requires more patience than we possess to treat it solierly and without ridicule. * * * Upon what are all these "dread alarums " based ? Upon silly rumors, dreams, and crazy imagina- tions of excited and halt-crazy brains. And how rapidly have they all been exploded in their order ! First, The Dalles and Cascades were to be immediately attaclced ; next, 8t. Helens ; then Major Haller was about to be out off; Lieutenant Slaughter's command was, without doubt, murdered ; and also Governor Mason, who followed, with Stuart, Trevitt, Barnhart and McKay, and several others, too numerous to mention, who had not been heard of for twenty-four hours or so. They have all finally turned up unharmed, except Haller's command, which sustained a loss of five men. » * « Upon the heels of the above list of rumors followed some other members of that innumerable family to the effect that three or four hundred Klamaths were at the head of the Santiam, armed, and threatening an attack upon the neighborhood, Salem, Albany, and probably Corvallis. No Indians could be found there ; and then rumor located a still larger and more dreadful band on the Calapooia, with the intention of sweeping the country and burning Eugene City. But nary Indian was found there, and we heard nothing of madam j-umor for two or three hours, when she came in breathless and reported the Tillajriook Indians as being in an awtul flz, and about to blow out Lafayette and Yamhill. A party started over to Tillamook to surprise the red rascals and head off their dire in- tentions; in due time they returned, without any scalps, and not very nmch fright- ened for their lives. They probably conveyed to those Indians the first intelligence they had of the combination of all the tribes against the whites. * ♦ # Now, nothing remains of the rumors from that quarter (the north) but the report of a combination of tribes, and a purpose of giving battle to the whites. We have noticed that in times past, upon the occurrence of Indian hostilities, it is at once re- ported that there is a combination of all the tribes in the section where the dis- turbance exist« ; and we have not;.ced, also, that when it was over and the facts •niK (IHKAT Ol'TBUKAK (»K KKJMTKKN K1KTV-1I\ K. ;v.»;i obtainahh', that tlicri! wnn no jjeiicml coinhination, ami do invcoin'crtod purpoHC of war. Thcro may lieu ntnu-ral comhinatioii of trilnH iiortli of ii«. Wt' hope not; and we have Heen no evidence that sucli is the (;aae, an<l do not lielicve that it Ih. The tro(t])M under tlie cornniand of Major Kiiincs were portions of the 4th Tnfiuitrv. Ininiedintcly upon rcmving the Majctr's re- port of the condition of uffuir.s on the Cohunbia, as well as intelli- genee of th(! Rogue lliver conif)lications, Major General Wool, com- inandant of the Military Division of the Paeifie, with ]iead(|Uarters at San Francisco, forwarded all the troops iit his disi^osal, together with stores, annnunition, etc. He also made a re(pusition upon the (iovernnient for reinforcements, in response to which the 0th Infantry was sent to the Coast; but owing to the insufficient means of com- munication and ti-avel, the regiment did not arrive until the follow- ing spring. CHAPTER XXIII. THE FALL CAMPAIGNS IN THE SOUTH. Governor Curry Calls for Two Battalions of Volunteers — Siege of Galice Creek- — Battle of Hungry Hill — -A Poor Commissariat, and Jealousy betweeti Regulars and Volunteers Cause Disaster — Organi- zation if the Two Battalions — They Arrange with the Hegtdars for a Joint Campaign — The J^'irst Meadows Campaign — Invasion of the Rice Settlement — 3[assacre <f Peaceable Zhnpiiuas in fjooking- Glass Valley — Attack on the Camj>» of Jake and John- -The Siege on Applegate Creek — Fight on Murphy Creek — Close of the Cam- paign for the Winter. THE narrative now turns back to the Rogue River Valley, whose stirring events will he considered while Major Raines and Governor Curry's troops are preparing for their expedition against the Yakimas. Upon tlie news being r(>ceived at Corvallis, the tem- porary seat of Government, tliat the flame of war had burst out afresh in Southern Oregon, Governor Curry, immediately after his proclamation for troops to fight the Northern Indians, issued a second call for volunteers to (piell the uprising in the South. He called for two battalions, to be designated as the " Northern Bat- talion " and "Southern Battalion." The former was to consist of five companies, two from Lane County, and one each from Douglas, Linn and Umjiqini, and was to rendezvous at Rosel)urg and elect a Major to command it. The latter was to consist of four compa- nies, all from Jackson County, to assemble at JiU'ksonville, and also choose a Major as commander. While the work of organizing the forces was going on, the Indian maraude' i retired to the neiijhborhood of Grave Creek, Cow Creek and Galice Creek, on each of which were important settleiuents. On the morning of the seventeenth of October the r.nited bands of THE FALL CAMPAI(iNS IN THK SOUTH. 395 Limpy, George, John and Tenas Tyee made an attack on the head- quarters of the volunteers on Galice Creek, and the fight ensued which has been celel)rated as the " Siege of Galice ('reek.'' Cap- tain AVilliani B. Lewis, in command of a company of about thirty- five men, was stationed at the creek. (Jn the day mentioned Ser- geant Adams was fired upon by liostiles, who appeared in strong force on the hill overlooking the houses used as headf[uai*ters. Several volimteers who were standing near were also fired upon, and Private J. W. Pickett was mortally wounded by a shot through the body, and died during the day. The heathpiarters consisted of two board houses, situated some twenty yards apart, and about an ecpuil distance fi'om the stream. Some four or five men took a position in a ditch which had been cut for defensive purposes; others took shelter within a log coi'ral adjoining one of the houses, while within the latter the remainder were installed. The enemy were hidden })ehind natural o})structioi)s in all directions from the de- fenses. Very soon the men were diiven from the ditch, and took refuge in the tiouses. While retreating toward the house. Private Israel D. Adams was shot and fell, mortally injured, near the house, being assisted into it by Private Allen Evans, who, while thus en- gaged, received a severe wound in the jaw. The Indians imme- diately occupied the ditch to the number of tvventy or more, and kf'pt up a fire on the houses, within which the volunteei-s were erect- ing defences by digging up floors, piling up blankets, etc. Umpqua Joe, a fri(Viidly Indian who was taking j>art with the whites, had the misfortune to be wounded; and a bullet penetrated the thin walls of the house and struck Private Samuel Sanders in the head, killing him instantly. Several attempts were made by the enemy to set fire to the houses, and Chief Gcorcje particularlv distinuniished himself by attempting to throw )»urning faggots uj)on the rot)fs. The en- gagement lasted nearly all day, the Indians at ni<.';Iiitall retiring from the scene. When they had disappeared, the volunteers went to work to strengthen their defences by extending their ditch, at which they occupied themselves nearly all night. In the morning some Indians appeared, and seeing from the preparations that the whites were ready to receive them, fired their guns, i*etreated, and were not again seen on Galice Creek. Besides those mentioned, Benjamin Tufts, severely wounded, died on the twenty-eighth of November 3<.)<) lirsToUY OF WILIiAMKTTK VALI.KY, following. Captain Lt'wiri, First Lientt»nant W. A. Moore, and Privates John P^rixson, Lonis Dunois, and Milton Blaeklidge were wounded. How great the Indian loss was could not be determined, but common opinion was that it was about etjual to that of the whites. A ieAV days subse(]uently, and while the whereabouts of the Indians was unknown, an opportune circumstance revealed their place of a))ode. Lieutenant (since General) A. Y. Kaiitz, o^^ the regular army, set out from Port Orford with a guard of ten soldiers to explore the country lying between that place and Fort Lane. Leaving the river near the mouth of Grave Creek, he ascended the neighboring hills and, nuich to his surprise, came upon a very large band of Indians. xVs they proved hostile, there was no re- source but to run for it, and losing one man by the savages' fin^, the men escaped to Fort Lane. Having now been made aware of the Indians' exact whereabouts, Colonel Ross and Captain Smith, combining forces as well as the mutual jeah^usies of j'egulars and volunteers would permit, began to plan an active campaign. All the dL'posable troops at Fort Lane consisted of eighty-five men and four oftx^'ers. These set out on the twenty -sev ith of October, and on arriving at the Grave Creek House were joined l)y Colonel Ross' command, of about two hundred and ninety men, besides a portion of Major Martin's force from Deer Creek. From this point the combined forces moved, on October thirtieth, to the Indian camp, arriving at daybreak at a point where Captains Harris and Bruce were deployed to the left, while Captain Smith, with the regulars, took the ridge to the right, with the expectation of ai-riving in the rear of the position. Captains Williams and Rinearson followed in Captain Smith's tracks. The country not being perfectly known by the whites, several mistakes followed in consequence, and Harris and Bruce came directly upon the Indian encampment, and were in full \'iew of the savages, before any strategic movement could be made, and no opportunity for surprising the enemy offered itself. The time was sunrise, and Captain Smith had gained his rear posi- tion and had built fires for his men's refreshment, at the place where Lieutenant Kautz had been attacked. By these fii'es the Indians were warned of the party in their rear, and prepared themselves accordingly. The regulars descended into a deep goige, climbed ^ THE FALL CAMPAIGNS IN THE SOUTH. 397 up the other side and directly ^vere engaged with the Indians, vvlii* advanced to meet them. From the crest of the hill for a mile or more in tlie rear of the Indians, was a dense tliicket; on the right and left were precipitous descents into a goi ge illled with pines and undergrowth, in which the nati\es concealed themselves almost per- fectly from the view of the \vliites, who possessed no resources suffi- cient to dislodge them. The I'idge being hare on to[), the men were necessarily exposed, and sonu^ casualti(<s resulted. Movements were made tt) get in the rear of this new position, hut sm-h attempts were futile. Several charges were made by the I'egulars, but ineffectually, althougli the men were for considerable periods within V'l: or twenty yards of the hostiles. The latter fought ])ravely and stea lily, pick- ing off the whites b}' a regular fire from their rifles, which were pitted against the inferior weapons of the troops, or at least of the regulars, two-thirds of whom had only the " musketoon," a short, smooth-bore weapon, discharging inaccurately a heavy round bullet, whose range was necessarily slight. About sunset the comnuinders concluded to retire from tiie tiehl, and encamped for the night at Bloody Spring, as it was then named, some distance down the hill. On the following morning Lieutenant (xibson, of the regulars, with ten men, proceeded up the hill to the battlefield, to secure the dead body of a private of his detachment, and when returning with it was pursued l)y the savages, \vho came down and attacked the camp in force. No damage was done exce].)t the Avounding of Lieu- tenant Gibson, and after a time the savages were driven off. No further attempt against the Indians was made, and after advising with their officers, the two connnanders decided to remove their troops from the vicinity. The total loss was thirty-one, of whom nine were killed, and twenty-two wounded. Several of the latter died of their injuries. The volunteers killed Avere Privates Jacob W. Miller, James Peai'cy and Henry Pearl, of Rinearsoi''s company; John AVinters, of AVilliams'; and Jonathan A. Pedigo, of Harris'. The wounded were Privates William II. Ci'ouch, Enoch Miller and Ephraim Tager, of Rinearson's; Thomas Ryan and AVillian; Stamms, of Williams'; L. F. Allen, John (Tolds])y,'ThonuiH Gill, C. B. Hin- ton, William M. Hand, William I. Mayfiehl, William Purnell and AVilliam White, of Mairis'; (■. ('. Goodwin, of Hruce's; and John Ki'imedy, of Welton's. The latter died on the sev<'nth of N<»vem- 398 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTE VALLEY. her, and C. B. Hinton, in endeav^oring to make his way alone to tlie Grave Ci-eek House, lost his road and perished from exposure. This fiifiit is known by the several names of the "Battle of Bloody Springs," "Battle of Hungry Hill," and " Battle in the Grave Creek Hills," and was prac-tically a defeat. Inclemency of the weather and inadetpiate clothing and accoutre- ments are ascribed as reasons for the failure of this campaign; but moi'e especially an utter failure of the ccjinmissariat. The commis- sary and ([uartermastei" departments were at fault, nor do they ap- pear to have l)een efficiently aihninistered at any time (hiring the war, although their expenses (duly charged to the United States) were pre])osterously great. P^igures are at hand to show that the expense of tlie latter department exceeded, for a time, eight hundred dollars ])ei' day I And this for transportation alone. A large number of Mexicans were borne on the rolls as packers, whose daily pay was six dollars, and who had the care and management of about one hundred and fifty pack animals, \v'hich were used in carrying supplies from Jacksonville or Crescent City to the seat of war. Tliey belonged to the volunteer service, and were entirely distinct from the trains by whicli the regulars at Fort Lane were supplied. It was to this mismanagement the failure of the cam- paign was attributed, and apparently with considerable justice. As was customary at that date, a great deal of blame Avas cast upon the volunteers for their alleged failure to properly second the efforts of the Government troops. This t;hai"ge is i'(;torted Uj)on Captain Smith's soldiers by counter-cliarges of similar tenor; and as neither side in the controversy is supported by any but interested evidence, we can not, at this date, satisfactorily discuss the (piestion. The matter, however, is connected with the in\ariable tendency to an- tagonism, which shows itself on evei'y similar occasion. These preliminary engagements were followed by a complete organization of the hastily collected companies as designate*! in the proclamation of Governor Curry. John K. Lamerick was aj)])ointed Acting Adjutant General for the Southern ]iattali(.)n, and reached Jacksonville a few days subsequent to the battle of Hungry Hill. About a dozen companies, of from twenty to eighty men eacli, ap- plied to be mustered. Of these four— Bruce, Williams, Wilkin- son, and Alct>ru's — were mustered at Vannoy's Ferry on the tenth of THE FALL CAMPArONS IN' THK SOUTH. 399 November, the others being disbaudeil. Tlie Itattaliou elected James Bruce Major, liis oidy competitor l)eiiig Captain 11. L. Williams. The Northern Battalion perfected its organization some- what earlier at Roseburg, electing William J. Martin Major on the twentieth of Oct<.)ber. M. M. McCarver, Aviio had been appointed Quartermaster General, established his headtpnii'ters at li()sel)urg. Major Martin's force consisted of live companies of one hundred and ten meu each, considerably in excess of the number assigned in the prodanmtion. The company from Douglas County was com- manded by Sajuuel Gordon; Jonathan Keeney was in command of the one from Linn, W. W. Cliapman WJis Ca})tain of the Umpcpia company, and Joseph Bailey and — — Buoy of tlie two from Lane. Major Martin estaldished headcpiarters at Camp Leland, seven miles north of Grave Creek, and stationed detachments of his men at suit- able jxiints for the general protection of the whole region north of Rogue River — in Cow Creek Valley, Camas Valley, the Canyon, North Unip(^ua, and at Scottsburg. Detachments of the Southern Battalion were stationed at Evans' Ferry, Bowden's, on Grave Creek, and other points. This disposition of the troops effectually prevented the Indians from reacliing the more important settlements, and the savages, find- ing all avenues closed to the eastward, left Bloody Sj)rings and pa.ssed down Rogue River, taking refuge in a region almost inac- cessible l)ecaiise of its steep mountains, deep gorges and dense underbrush. The two 1 >attalions were mutually independent, though expected t(» co-operate. Their commandei's arranged with Captain Smith for a joint campaign againt the Indians, whose location on Rogue River had been discovered. Major Fitzgerald and his com- pany of dragoons had been ordered to report for duty at Vancou- ver, much reducing the force of regulars at Fort Lane. Captain Judah, who was stationed at Fort Jones, was sent, by Captain Smith, to accompany the volunteers with all the troops which could be spared from those two posts. Here was the most unmilitary spectacle of three separate and distinct commands starting out upon a campaign, with no conunauder-in-chief and no definitely outlined plan of operations. The line of march was taken up by Major Martin, Major Bruce, ami Captain Judah t>u the twentieth of November, the latter taking 400 IITSTORT OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. with him, with infinite difficulty, a clumsy mountain howitzer. A day or two later they encamped at the mouth of Whiskey Creek, and found traces of Indians. Proceediusr down the river the next morning, keeping along tlie high lands back a mile or two from the stream, they found the Indians in strong force in the woods border- ing the river. It was deemed proper to ci'oss to the south side of the stream, and for this purpose Major Bruce proceeded with his ))attaliou down the river, being then near the mouth of Jackass Creek, and attempted to cross. There was no discipline whatever. The commands were but newly organized, and each pi'ivate con- sidered his judgment as good as that of his officers. The men were scattered out over the bar, some engaged in constructing rafts and others in prospecting foi" gold. No effort was made to k(^ep them in order by their officers, though they were almost in the presence of the enemy. The consequence was that when the Indians began firing upon tiiem from out of the dense thicket on the opposite bank, the men made a wild rush for shelter in the forest al)ove the bar. Although some of the officers made a vain effort to halt them and form a line, they preferred to take the advice of a fleeing Lieu- tenant and " break for the brush." While this was being done the commands of Martin and Judah lay upon the hill above and several miles distant, while the latter trained his piece in the direction of the enemy and awoke the echoes with its harmless bang. After con- tinuing this amusement for some time the martial toy was strapped upon the back of a lusty mule, and the three conunands marched back to their camps at Vannoy's Ferry, Foi't Lane and Camp Le- land. Thus ended the First Meadows Campaign. AVilliam Lewis, of Kenney's comi)any, was killed, five other volunteers were wounded, and one Indian scalp was taken home l)y the retiring troops. The various companies were now detailed for guard duty at the more exposed places, and no regular campaign was again under- taken until spring. Though comparatively inactive, thciy served as a bulwark of safety to the settlements along Rogue liiver antl the Umpqua. There were, however, a few war- like incidents l)efore the close of the year, which served to show that the Indians were still hostile, and that the spirit of promiscuous extermin.ition had not forsaken the whites. The flrst of tiiese was the descent of some twenty or thirty Indians upon the Rice Settlement, at the mouth of THE FALL CAMPAIGNS IN THE SOUTH. 401 Looking Glass Creek, eight miles south of Roseburg. The hostiles burned Rice's house, captured some fire-arras, and did other damage. A small company of men, commanded by J. P. Day, went from Deer Creek to the scene and engaged and defeated the Indians on the second of December, killing three. The stolen guns, horses, etc., were re-captured. Castleman, a member of the company, was slightly wounded. The Indians were probably Cow Creeks who had not formally joined the forces of Limpy and George on the banks of Rogue River. Some few of the peaceable Umpquas resided in and around the pleasant vale of Looking Glass. When war broke out on Rogue River, these inofEensive peo})le were gath- ered in Looking Glass Valley, occupying a rancheria on the creek, where they lived at peace with all the world, and ignorant and careless of everything outside of their own little sphere. In an evil hour certain white people of that vicinity, who imagined that they were dangerous neighbors, organized themselves into a company, and fell suddenly upon the helpless little community, and scattered them to the four winds. Several men and an old squaw w ere killed. The people on Butte Creek, in Jackson County, had, with the first alarm of war, sought safety in a camp of log houses on Felix O'Neal's donation claim. Alcorn's company was recruited among the hardy settlers thereabouts, and subsequent to their return from the First Meadows Campaign, were posted in part at this fortified camp. Jake, a well-known chief of a small band of Indians, with his braves, had long inhabited that portion of the country and had refused to go on the reservation. On the night of December twen- ty-fourth Captain Alcorn marched to their rancheria and camped within a mile of it, in the cold and snow. At daybreak the next morning the troops moved within rifle range, and began to shoot. This they kept up until the natives were killed or dispersed, their loss being eight " bucks " killed, and the remainder wounded. One squaw was wounded in the jaw, and two men were captured. A similar affair, similarly managed, occurred at the same date between a detachment of Captain Rice's company and the Indians of a ranch- eria four miles north of Rogue River, and just below the mouth of Big Butte Creek. The Indians were taken by surprise, and after several hours' fighting, eighteen males were killed, twenty squaws 402 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. and children captured and the rancheria burned. On the same day twenty men of Bushey's company set out on a j*cuuting tour to the neigh})orhood of Williams' Creek, where a [)()rtk)u of Old John's band were busying themselves in many a hostile ^vay, niucli raised in self-esteem by the partial success of their bold leader since the war began. On the fourth day a detachment of seven men came upon the camp, and immediately attacked it, killing three braves and putting the others to flight. Toward the last of December some scouts, near the forks of the Applegate, discovered that a body of Indians had taken [)ossession of two deserted miners' cabins, and had gone into winter ( quarters there, preparing themselves for a state of siege by excavating the floors and piling the dirt against the walls. A l)ody of sixty or more from Sterling went immediately to watch the cabins and prevent the Indians from escaping, while wonl was sent to various military companies. Captain Bushey arrived, and finding the position too strong for his small force, awaited the arrival of others. Capt. Smith sent Lieutenants Hagen and Underwood with twenty -five regulars and the inevitable howitzer; but the mule . carrying the ammunition was so heedless as to fall into a dee^p creek and be killed, while the powder wus ruined. More ammu- nition was sent for, and Lieutenant Switzer, with sixteen regulars, brought it on a mule. The regulars then Hrtd a shell, which passed into or through a cabin and killed, as the records say, two savages. Before the howitzer's arrival the Indians had killed one man and wounded five. After the shell was fired, the regulars postponed fui'ther operations until the morrow, as night was near. When they arose the next morning the birds had flown and their cages were empty. A much regretted event t)ccurred during the day; this was the killing of Martin Angell, of Jacksonville, who set out to accompany the regulars to the scene of the siege. When two and a half miles from Jacksonville, Angell and Walker, who were about two hundred and fifty yards in advance, were fired on by Indians concealed in the brush beside the road. Angell was killed instantly, four balls passing through his head and neck. On the same day (January 2) Charles W. Hull was hunting on the divide between Jackson and Jackass creeks, and becoming sepa- rated from his friends, was waylaid and murdered by Indians. THE FALL CAMPAIGNS IN THE SOUTH. 403 After it was found that th«' Indians had made their escape from the cabins, the regulars returned to the seclusion of Fort Lane, while Major Bruce, who had arrived upon the held, set out a few days later, with a portion of Rice, Williamson and Alcorn's com- panies, to follow the trail of the fleeing Indians to the west. The scouts came suddenly upon a single l)rave, who ran -at the top of his speed directly to his camp. The savages, warned by the shout- ing of the pursued, j)repared for a fight, and for quite a while re- sisted that part of Bruce's command which came into action, killing one man, Wiley Cash, of Alcorn's company, and seriously wound- ing Private Richardson, of O'Neal's company. Some ten or twelve horses, left unguarded by the whites, were taken by the Indians, and several more were shot. This fight occurred on the twenty- first of January, the locality being Murphy's Creek, tributary to the Applegate. Only twenty-five men participated at first, but Lieu- tenant Armstrong came up with a small reinforcement, and after a most plucky fight succeeded in saving the lives of the detachment. The total number of Indians engaged, under the leadership of John, was pfobably about fifty. No further active campaign was made until spring. CHAPTER XXIV. THE YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PU(iET 80UND CAMPAIGNS. Troops Concentrate at The Dalles — Conjiict of Author Itij — An Incident at Vancouver — Block House Built at The Cw-iK/es — Efforts to Equip the Volunteers Regulars and Volunteers March North from The Dalles — Plan of the Campaign — The Eight on the Banks of the Yakima and at the " Buttes " — Burning of the Catholic Mission Ends the Campaign — Efforts to Treat with Peu-peu-mox-mox — Pre- lude to the Walla Walla Campaign — Eort Henrietta — Regulars Refuse their Aid in a Useless Winter Campaign — Unjitnes9 of the Volunteers far such a Campaign — Colonel Kelly Marches Against the Walla Wallas — Capture of Peu-peu-mox-mox Under a Flag of Truce — A Night of Suspense and Excitement — A Fruitless Ante- Breakfast March — Battle of Walla Walla — Killing of Peu-peu- mox-mox and other Prisoners — Ears and Scalp of the Chief Ex- hibited in the Willamette Valley — The Situation after the Battle- Killed and Wounded — Great Excitement la the Willamette when the News is Received- — Oregonian Editorials on the Situation — General Wool Condemned — His Opinion of the War ami the People^ s Opinion of Him — Governor Stevens Prefers Charges Against General Wool- - Incidents Attending the Return of Governor Stevens from the Black- foot Country — The Charges of the Irate Governor Pigeon-holed — The Situation During the Winter — Unpleasant Experiences of the Volunteers — Reinforcements sent to Walla Walla^ Colonel Cornelius Resumes the Offensive — Harse Meat Causes a Mutiny— No Enemy Being F'ound, the Command Abandons the Walla Walla Country — Farewell Courtesies of Kama-i-akun — The Volunteers Disband Without Official Recognition of their Services — Honors Received YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUOET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 405 from the People — Tino Coin,pame» rained to Guard the Colmnhior — Rpfrnin of the '* Ilorne-fed Volunteer''' — The Political and Specula- tive Aspect of the dnuipaign — Oovemor CuiTy goes to Washington to Couiiternet the Infueuce of General Wool^ and Secure an Apj)rop?'i- atiou to Defray the E.vpenses of the War. THE ten companies called for by Governor Curry for service in the north were quickly recruited, and hastened to the general rendezvous at The Dalles, Colonel J. W. Nesmith in command. The regulars also concentrated there, commanded by Major G. J. Raines, of the 4th United States Infantry. The conflict of authority began at once. Major Raines notified Governor Curry that he stood ready to muster four companies into the United States service, to be commanded by officers of their own selection. This was the number he had requested. He said that he could not take the re- sponsibility of enlisting a larger force, deeming it not required, nor could he arm and equip any of them unless regularly mustered into the service. His proposition was rejected, and the effort to place the volunteers on a war footing was continued. The two companies called for by Governor Mason were quickly raised, one at Vancouver and one at Olympia. Both were mustered into the regular service, the former under the command of William Strong and the latter of Gilmore Hays. The acting executive of Washington Territory pursued an opposite course to that taken by Governor Curry, and sought in every way to sustain and aid the regular army officers, instead of opposing them and endeavoring to conduct an independ- ent campaign. To offset the supposed superiority of rank of the commander of the Oregon regiment, he commissioned Major Raines as Brigadier- General of Militia in Washington Territory. This conflict of rank, however, cut V>ut a small figure, the two commands acting entirely independently, though co-operating, to a degree, in the first camjiaign. While these preparations were progressing, an incident occurred at Vancouver which called for the services of Captain Strong's company. There was a village of a branch V)and of the Klickitat tribe at the mouth of Lewis River, opposite St. Helens, which was a source of apprehension to the people. A number of the warriors 406 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. were known to have crossed the iiiountaius to join the hostile Yakinias; autl us a precautionary measure, a party of thirty men from Vancouvei- went to the rancheria and escorted the thirty remaining wai'viors and their families back to that city, where they were disarmed and instructed to remain in peace. This party was headed ))y T. H. Smith, Special Indian Agent. On the eighth of November the captives, to the numbei" of one hundred and fifty, stampeded for the Yakinui countiy, and were pursued by Captain Strong's company and a few regiihirs. In about ten days they were all brought back, except Umtux, the chief, who had l)een killed in some mysterious way, no one being able to tell " how it happened." At the same time a bh^'k-house was built at the Cas- cades by Captain Wallan, who mounted upon it a six-pound cannon and garrisoned it with a detachment of ten men from his company. Colonel Nesmith had command of the Oregon volunteers by virtue of his rank as Brigadier General of Militia; l)ut soon after the companies reached The Dalles an election was held for line offi- cers, in accordance with instructions from Governor Curry. This resulted in the choice of J. W. Nesmith, Colonel; J. K. Kelly, Lieutenant-Colonel; A. N. Armstrong, First Major; M. A. Chinn, Second Major. Colonel Nesmith's election was almost unanimous — the vote standing five hundred and eighty-three to foi'ty-one — and undoubtedly his equal could not have been found in the Territory. With infinite difficulty and persevering energy he secured arms, ammunition, horses, supplies, etc., and was pre[)ared to move al- most as soon as the regulars, who encountered no such difficulties. An application to Major Rainer^ for arms and equipments was re- fused, on the gi'ound that he wa^ uot authorized to issue them to any but troops in the United btutes service. Major Raines was, however, very anxious thist something should be accomplished, and partially supplied them under the militia law of the country, which entitled every Territory to draw a certain amount of arms and am- munition from the Government. Still they were not readv to take the field. Major Raines, as a last effort at a compromise, offered to muster the whole force into the regular service, with Colonel Nes- mith in command as Major, and equip them from the Government stores, but the offer was declined. He then began his march into the Yakima country with the regulars, informing Colonel Nesmith YAKIMA, WALI.A WALLA AND Pl'OKT SOUND OAMl'AIONS. 4(>7 that if liis c'uinmand \va> deft'titcd by reji-scni of its iuf«^rior huiuIrts, the hhuiu' would ivst with the volunteers, who, by refusiug to be mustered into the service, [)revented themselves from V)eing ecjuipped ami takinu' pai't in the eampaign. A few days later Colonel Xes- mith was so far prepared with a portion of his command as to feel justified in taking the tield for a short eampaign. He accordingly hastened to overtake Major Raines with some four hundred men, leaving the remainder at The Dalles under eomnuaul oi Major Chinn. The volunteers and regulars were united on the thii-d of November, and continued the march together. The plan of the campaign embraced an invasion fi'om two di- rections. Kesid<s the force marching north from The Dalles, Cap- tain Maloney was instructed to enter the Yakima country by way of the Natchess Pass with his company of the 4rth Infantry and Captain Hays' comi)ahy "f volunteers, and to form a junction with Major Raines. The movements of Captain Maloney's command will be detailed later. It is sufficient to say that this force did not participate in the Yakima campaign, though its supposed move- ments served to complicate matters considerably, and caused much needless anxiety. As the united foi'ces passed through the Indian country they found and destroyed, or used, al)out ten thousand pounds of pi'ovisions the enemy had secreted, chiefly dried salmon and camas. On the morning of the eighth of Novem!)er Captain Cornelius, with seventy men, made a detoin- to the left from the night's camp on Simcoe Creek. Towards evening the main bod}- reached the Yakima and went into camp, the regulars some tAvo miles in advance. Major Raines soon discovered Indians in the bushes on the opposite bank of the stream, and opened upon them, , at the same time dispatching a courier to Colonel Nesmith. The latter dashed away to the front at the head of sixty men, where he found the regulars and Indians passing leaden compliments with the river flowing between them. He at once commenced searching for a ford, found it, crossed the stream, and dislodging the savages, followed them ineffectually until they took refuge in the direction of the " Buttes " to the northeast. He then withdre-w and went into camp. Lieutenant Phil. Sheridan, at the head of some twenty United States dragoons followed the force utider Colonel Nesmith across the river, and gallantly joined the successful ad\ance. That 408 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. evening Captain Cornelius reached Ne8mi':h's camp, having been engaged during tiie greater part of the aftei noon with a large body of Indians, in which three of his men and several horses had re- ceived wounds. On the morning of November 9, the entire force moved in the direction of a gap in the hills through which flows the Yakima River, at a point known as the "Tv.^o Buttes." The advance guard consisted of companies commanded by Captains Cornelius, Hem- bree and Bennett. These drove the Indians from their lurking places in the bushes along the river until all — some three hundred — had fallen back and taken posses"ion of their rude fortifications upon the " Buttes." At first a howitzer was tried, but, for want of sufl&cient elevation, it failed to reach the enemy. Then Major Ilal- ler and Captain {now General) Augur with their commands, aided by a force of volunteers, charged up the rugged, broken face of the mountain, the Ii;dians fleeing down the opposite side. The savages had made no resistance ; consequently no one was hurt. That night the whites camped at the base of the "Buttes," and tb»^ Ir^dians re- occupied the abandoned heights; but in the morning they were arain dislodo-ed with a loss of two killed. The captui'e of their entire force at this time only failed through the misconception of orders by Lieutenant D. B. Hannah. The Indians at once aban- doned that section of country, and there was no more fighting, save a little skirmishing with a few straggling bands in the valley. At night the troops bivouacked by the Atahnum River, some two miles east of the Catholic Mission. Up to this time no communication had been received fi'om Cap- tain Maloney, and fears were entertained that the entire force of Indians had gone in the direction of the Natchess Pass for the pur- pose of overwhelming him by numbers. Colonel Nesmith, with two hundred and fifty men, among whom were Phil. Sheridan and his dragoons, started on the morning of November 11, with a view of rendering assistance t'> Captain Maloney if he needed it, or at least to open communication with him. A violent hiiow storm set- ting in, he was forced to return ; and, af*:er an absence of three days, his tents were pitched at the «>ld Catholic Mission, where the main force under Major Raines had preceded him. While stationed there the troops "accidentally" burned the mission building, a rude TAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND ^TTGET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 409 structure formed of poles and mud. On the fifteenth a council of war decided unanimously that the reduced commissary supj)lies warranted an immediate return to The Dalles, and the line of march was at once taken up. Thus ended the Yakima camj)aign. While the troops were first assembling at The Dalles an effort had been made to placate the great and influential chief of the Walla W^allas, whose signature to the treaty had been secured only after gxeat concessions to him individually, and whose former friendship for Americans had been changed to hati'ed by the un- provoked murder of his son at Sutter's Fort, in California, a few years before. The chief cause of anxiety was the small party of Goveiuor Stevens, which, in the event of the joining of the Walla Wallas and Cayuses in the war, would be cut off from any avenue of return which did not lead through a hostile country. It is doubtful, however, if he would havd been molested had the subse- quent campaign in that region not b 'en undertaken. To accom- plish the desired end Nathan Omey, the Tndian Agent, started from The Dalles with five hundred dollars in silver and some presents of goods to pay Peu-peu-mox-mox the first installment due him under the treaty. He was accompanied on the journey only by Ta-be-bo, a haJf-breed, and A. P. Woodard. On their arrival, October 12, at Old Fort Walla Walla, near the mouth of the riv^r of that name, they were cordially received by James Sinclair, who, with three or four men, had charge of the fort as representative of the Hudson's Bay Company. Peu-peu-mox-mox was sent for and told that the promised money and goods awaited him, but he returned a sullen and defiant reply. He repudiated the treaty ; said he would accept neither presents nor money from the Government, and wanted the whites to leave his country. A council between the Agent and Sinclair resulted in a determination to abandon the fort. The sur- plus ammunition, stored there by the Hudson's Bay Company, was taken out in a boat and dumped in the Columbia River, to prevent its falling into the hands of Indians. Then the settlers, the Hud- son's Bay men, and a number of miners who had reached this point from Colville, started for The Dalles, leaving the hostile country east of the Cascade Mountains untenanted, save by a few old em- ployees of the company who were married to Indian women. Nar- ■ cisse Remond, who enjoyed immunity from molestation because of f * k i I f n 410 HISTOkJr OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. his former connection with the Hudson's Bay Company, was com- missioned by Mr. Oluey to remain and report upon the conduct of the suspected tribes. Tliis wliolesale abandonment of the country was accepted by the Indians as an invitation to do as they pleased with what had been left behind. They burned the Umatilla Mis- sion, in which had been stored a quantity of supplies by Governor Stevens, plundered McKay's house and other places, drove the cattle of Brooke, Bumford and Noble away from Waiilatpu, and took possession of and pillaged Fort Walla Walla. This was done ])y Yakima and Palouse Indians, assisted by certain factions of the Walla Wallas, Cayuses and Umatillas. Howlish-Wampoo, head chief of the Cayuses, endeavored m vain to prevent the Yakinias and Palouses from driving tlie cattle away from Waiilatpu. T-'<- Walla Walla affair was the work of Peu-peu-mox-mox and his foi- louers. On the whole these acts can hardly V)e considered as a sufficient cause for an im'asion of their country by the forces of Governor Curry, at an expense of millions of dollars to the Gen- eral Government. If })rotection of the settlers in the Willamette, along the lower Columbia and on Puget Sound, was desired, that object could have been more effectually accomplished by guarding the lines of appi'oach. By leaving these open and invading the Indian country, they not only invited the danger they apprehended, but showed that on the part of the leaders, at least, the war was an offensive, and not a defensive, one. Even if an invasion were in any event to be feared, it certainly could not be made until spring, the routes through the mountains being, with the aid of a few troops, sufficiently guarded from approach by the icy hand of winter. Furthermore, this conduct on tlie part oi the L lians was not known until after the campaign had been decided upon and a force dispatched from The Dalles to begin its execution. The rescue of Governor Stevens from possible attack l)y the disaffected Walla Wallas or Cayuses, then, could l)e thv only excuse for stand- ing an aruK'd force into the Walla Walla country; Init thif ^i< - 1 in itself by no means req^nred so long a campaign — continuing some months after the Governor's return — nor the employment of so large an army at sucli an enormous outlay. The safe return of His Excellency could have been accomplished at a comparatively trifling expense. YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUGET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 411 Without waiting for the information expected from Mr. Remond, Governor Curry decided to invade the Walla Walla country in force. He dispatched two companies on the seventh of November to reinforce Colonel Nesmith in the Yakima country, and at the same time sending orders for him to proceed directly to Foi't Walla Walla, where he would be joined by one hundred and fift}' men from The Dalles. The reinforcements lost their way, and failed to reach Colonel Nesmith until they met him on the seventeenth in the Simcoe Mountains, on his way back to The Dalles. It was then impossible to obey the Governor's instructions, and Colonel Nesmith continued his homeward march to The Dalles. Mean- wliile, on the twelfth, Major Chinn started with two coin[)anies for Fort Walla Walla, along the south bank of the Columbia. On the night of the seventeenth they encamped at Well Springs, where they were joined by two couriers from Narcisse Reniond with intel- ligence from the Walla Walla country, the substance of which has been previously given. This information caused Major Chinn to abandon the march for Fort Walla Walla, and to proceed to the site of the burned Catholic Mission on the Uu'atilla, to await rein- forcements, for which he dispatched a courier. He there erected defensive works, and on the t\venty-first sent anothc^r courier asking for two more companies and some artillery. He thus describes Fort Henrietta: 'We have an abundance of timlier and water, and tolerable grass for stock. We have picket<^'d in with large split timber one hundred feet square of ground, and erected two bastions, of round logs, on two of the angles; and from the rails found here made two corrals for the horses and cattle. This, as a defeice, is good against any body of Indians." Considerable excitement v 'as created Pt The Dalles by the intel- ligence brought iu from Mnjo.' Chinn. It was at once assumed that his command was in a perilous ?ituat'.on, and must be immi^diately reinforced to preserve it from disaster. The companies of Captains Munson, Wilson and Cornoyer, consisting of some one hundred and seventy-five men, were at once sent forward, accompanied by Lieu- tenant-Colonel James K. Kelly, who was to take command of the whole battalion. Application was made by Colonel Nesmith to Major Raines for two howitzers and artillerymen to man them, stating that he had preferred a similar request to General Wool, at I I 412 HISTORY OP WILLAMETTE VALLET. Vancouver, but could not delay action for a reply. In this letter lie quoted, with telling effect, a few lines which had been addressed to him by Major Raines, as he started upon the Yakima campaign, reproaching him for obstructing the movements of his allies and permitting them to encounter the enemy unaided. General Wool had arrived from San Francisco a few days before, bringing sixty regulars, two thousand stand of arms, and three hundred tons of stores and ammunition. He was in ill-health, and did not visit the seat of operations at The Dalles, but remained at headquarters in Vancouver. ITr* received the reports of his subordinates as to the caus3 of hostilii.( ' the present situation, and came to the con- clusion that there \. no necessity for a war and no need of a win- ter campaign. With the regular troops to occupy the Columbia there was no danger of invasion of the AViilamette, and all that was required to end the war- was for the volunteers to return home and disband. Such was the opinion of the commander of the depart- ment, and it must be confessed that he was, in the main, correct. Such a line of conduct would have saved the lives of a score of brave volunteers and the Government many thoiisands of dollars, though, to be sure, not ?o profitable to the contractor and those whose patriotism was confined to questionable dealings with the commissary department. With troops stationed at The Dalles, Cascades, Vancouver, and suitable points on Puget Sound, no attack need be feared from the Eastern Indians until spring, even assum- ing that they were disposed to risk an invasion of the settlements at all. A whole regiment of regulars was on the way and would arrive in ample time to participate in a campaign in the spring, if one should prove to be necessary. It was certainly the duty of Governor Curry to recall Major Chinn and disband the volunteer army, or, at least, the greater portion of it. If necessary, the safe re- turn of Governor Stevens could have been provided for by sending him an armed escort to accompany him home after he had reached the friendly Nez Perces. General A\'ool, consequently, refused to furnish howitzers, or to participate in the proposed campaign in any way, and withdrew his forces to winter quarter at Vancouver, including the Washington Territory volunteers. The absurdity of undertaking a winter campaign so far away from the base of supplies becomes still more apparent by the fol- YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUOET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 413 lowing quotation fi-om the report of Colonel Nesniith of the condi- tion .of his command upon their return fi'om only three weeks' cam- paigning in the Yakima country: Many of the men were frost-bitten on the late expedition, and can hardly be said to be fit for duty. An insjiection of horses has been had at camp, and about one-fourth of the whole number were found fitted for present duty. About one- half of the men composing the whole command desire their discbarge. I have given a few discharges upon the written report of the surgeon, stating that the men were unfit for duty. I have, also, granted furloughs to a few of the men who have urgent business requiring their personal attention for short periods ; and am now anxiously awaiting orders for the disposition of the remainder of the command. * * * * The right column, which was under my immediate command, suffered intensely during the campaign, for want of tents to protect them from the inclemency of the weather. My recpiisition for tents is still unfilled. There is much,justifli)ble complaint on the part of the men, by reason of their exposed con- dition. On the twenty -eighth he .,r warded to Colonel Kelly the com- panies of Captains Bennett and Cornelius, increasing the force in the field to four hundred and seventy-five men, besides two com- panies under Major Armstrong, in the vicinity of the Des Chutes and John Day rivers. He then started for the Willamette Valley for a temporary absence, leaving Captain Farrar in command at The Dalles, but soon after reaching Portland resigned his commis- sion and retired to private life. While preparations were being made for this campaign the Orcgonian editorially commented upon the selfishness, greed and want of patriotism on the part of the people, who demanded enormous prices for everything furnished for the use of the troops. Colonel Kelly reached Fort Henrietta on the twenty-ninth of November, and learning that the Indians were in force in the vicinity of Fort Walla Walla, determined to march upon them without delay. His command moved on the fifth of December in two divisions. Major Chinn, with one hundred and fifty men and all the baggage, proceeded to the mouth of the Touchet River, while Colonel Kelly, with two hundred men, unincumbered, moved up the stream for the purpose, as his subsequent report declares, " of attacking the Walla Wallas," who were supposed to be en- camped there. As they proceeded up the Touchet, Captain Cornoyer and a few of his company of scouts marched a long distance in ad- vance. Suddenly, while approaching the summit of a hill, several Indians appeared in his immediate front, advancing from the oppo- 414 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. site side of the crest. In an instant the Captain's gun was leveled upon the one in advance, but, before he could fire, a flag of truce was disfovered in the hand of the savage; and the Captain's com- panions cried out, "Don't shoot! don't shoot! it's Peu-peu-mox- mox!" A parley followed; but, while it was going on, the Captain discovered a band of about one hundred and fifty Indians on horse- back, advancing in the direction from which the chief h.tid come. In a twinkling his gun again covered Peu-peu-mox-mox, who was told that if his followers continued to approach, his own life would pay the forfeit; and, at a signal accompanied by a peculiar cry, the advancing party halted as if by magic, every one of -whom dis- mounted and stood by his horse. The Chief asked if Nathan 01ney> the Indian Agent, was with the soldiers; and on being told that he was, expressed a desire to see him. He stated that he wanted no fighting; that he had determined at first to make war on the whites, but, after reflection, had concluded that it was not policy for his people to do so; that he was willing to make all amends that lay in his power for what his tribe had done; and was anxi(jus to se- cure a permnnent peace. The Captain sent one of his men back to report, asking Colonel Keily to come with Olney and meet the flag of truce paity. Accordingly, the volunteers were halted in plain sight of the little s(juad on the hill, while the parties indicated, with John McBean for interpreter, went forward to meet the redoubtable chief. Considerable time was consumed in the conference ; and, as it passed, gradually the main body of both Indians and volunteers approached the central group until all were together, the soldiers surrounding the flag party with the main force of Indians on the outside. Finally, the entire body moved toward the Indian village, until it was discovered that the trail they were following passed through a dangerous canyon, when another halt was made. A portion of the troops had already entered the canyon, among whom was Captain Cornoyer, who, on turning back to learn what caused the delay, found that fears were entertained by some of the officers that treachery was intended by Peu-peu-mox-mox. Captains Cor- noyer, Bennett, and others were of a different opinion ; they said treachery on his part would cost him his life, and he knew it. " Put him in my charge," said Captain Cornoyer, " he will then know that YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUGET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 415 the first gun fired upon our ranks will be a signal of his own death, and there will he no danger. Let us go to their village to-night, and the peace he promises W'ill be a certainty, for we will have them all in cmr power." This advice was not taken. Colonel Kelly and Nathan Olney insisted that if his professions wi-re in good faith, they could be carried out the next day just as well as to run the risk of a dangerous j^ass that evening; and it was determined to move V>ack on the trail a shoi't distance and cam[», supperless, for the night. The flag of truce riulians were taken with them, under close guard, as disarmed prisoners, held as hostages for the good conduct of the others until the ne.\t day, the chief l)eing informed that he must so remain with them or his village would at once be attacked. That night the cam)) and its vicinit}^ were the scene of stormy councils and of stormy elements. The volunteers were tired, hun- gry and dissatisfied, while the iidiospitable elements, shedding their fleecy cai'pet of snow ujwn the ground for the soldiers to lie upon, made them angry and almost nuitinous, in their belief that it was the prisoner's fault that had pluced them in their disagi'eeable position. " Shoot the damned Indians !" was a cry fre(|uently heard from different pnrts of the camp, and the captives became restless and ill at ease, l)elieving that their lives were in danger. The chief requested to be given his freedom, and some of the oflScers were in favor of permitting him to go, while others were not. Finally, an Indian apj^eared on an adjacent hill who desired to talk with the chief, but would not come in ; and Captain Cornoyer went (mt to talk with him, accompanied by several, among whom was John McBean, the interpreter. The interview was unsatisfactory, as the Indian seemed only desirous of being heard by the captive chief, cind talked in a very loud voice. What he said was not made clear to the Captain and his associates, and, concluding that all was not right, they took the loud-voiced messenger back with them a prisoner into camp. At different times in the night In- dians came around upon the hills and shouted communications to the chief, who told his captors that his people were becoming fi'ightened for their own safety and his. Morning revealed the fact that the camp had been surrounded during the night by a cordon of mounted Indians, who evidently had listened to the 416 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. threats, dissensions, and unfriendly talk in the volunteer earap, which was enough, in combination with the fact that their chief was a prisoner, to make them fear treachery on the pan of the whites. All existing evidence goes to prove that this great Walla Walla leader came to sue for peace in good faith ; that his ad- vances were received with mistrust ; that he was taken prisoner while under a flag of truce, to make sure that he would do what he affirmed a willingness to do ; and that the actions and talk in camp that night made both him and his followers fear treachery from the whites, whicli caused the Indians to alter their plans. This change in policy was evidently made known to Peu-peumox-mox by those who shouted messages to him from the surrounding hills. In doing this they used the Cayuse tongue, a language unknown to the inter]>reter, and one not in general use, even by the Cayuse tribe themselves, Nez Perce being the common language of all these Indians. The next morning the captive chief, in ])ur8uance of the new plans, secured a delay in moving, by urging that his people needed time to prepare breakfast for so many men. Shortly before noon the march was taken up, the dangerous canyon passed, and the village reached ; but no smoking repast or cordial welcome awaited them. The village was deserted, and as the hungry and disappointed men gathered around the still smoldering camp-fires, they knew that a battle must be fought. Straggling Indians could be seen on the surrounding hills, and three of them, one a son of the captive chief, came within speaking distance and demanded to see the prisoner. The son was persuaded to enter the camp, upon assurance of safety, and when he did so the father told him he wanted his people all to come in and make peace. The young man went away saying that he would do as requested, but nothing fur- tuer was heard from him ; and, finally, Colonel Kelly proceeded to march his hungry command "to the mouth of the Touchet, with a view of going from thence to some spot near Whitman's Station, where I had intended to form a permanent camp for the winter." His report continues thus : " On the morning of the seventh, com- panies H and K crossed the Touchet, leading the column on the route to Whitman's Valley, and when formed on the plain were joined by Company B. A few persons in front were driving our YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUGET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 417 cattle, and a few were on the flanks of the companies and near the foot of the hills that extend along the river. These persons, as well as I can ascertain, were fired on by the Indians." It is as- serted, however, by members of Company B, that one of the flank- el's of that company, a man called " Jont," fired the first shot, which was returned by the savages. Companies A and F were detailed to guard the baggage, and the remainder of the command made an immediate attack upon the enemy. The Indians were pui'sued a distance of seven miles across the hills and up the Walla Walla River, a running fight being kept up, until they made a temporary stand on Dry Creek. They again fled ; but four miles beyond Dry Creek they made a determined stand, near the cabin of a French Canadian named " La Roccpie," where a desperate battle occurred. Their line extended from the hills across the flat to the river. Along the stream was a thick o-rowth of cotton wood and under- brush, while the flat wt\s covei'ed with sage brush and sand knolls. These all furnished a good screen for Indians on foot, while mounted ones lined the hillsides. The report says : — When the volunteers renehed this point there were not more than forty or fifty men, heiiiK those mounted upon the fleetest horses. Upon these the Indians poured a murderous fire from the hrushwood and willows alonj? the river, and from the sage bushes along the plain, wounding a number of tlie volunteers. The men fell back. 'I'he moment was critical. They were commanded to cross the fence which surrounds La Rooque's field and charge upon the Indians in the brush. In execut- ing this order Lieutenant Burrows, of Company H, was Itilled, and Captain Mun- son, of Company I, Isaac Miller, Sergeant-Miijor, and G. W. Smith, of Com[)any B, were wounded. A di.-<patch having been sent to Captain Wilson, of Company A, to come forward, he and his company came up on a gallop, dismounted at a slough, and with fixed bayonets pushed on through the brush. In the course of half an hour Captain Bennett was on the ground with Company F, and with this accession the enemy were steadily driven forward for two miles, when they took possession of a farm house and close fence (Teliier's), In attempting to carry which Captain Bennett, of Company F, and Private Kelso, of Company A, were killed. A howit- zer found at Fort Walla Walla, under charge of Captain Wilson, by this time was brought to bear upon the enemy. Four rounds were fired when the piece bursted, wounding Captain Wilson. Tlie Indians *' ->n gave way at all points; the house and fence were seized and held by tlie vo rs and the bodies of our men were recovered. These positions were held by itil nightfall, when the volunteers fell slowly back and returned unmolested, to camp around the cabin of La Bocque during the night. While the battle was progressing, there was enacted a scene which furnished General Wool with material for one of the most telling of his reflections upon the spirit evinced by the people in 418 niSTOKY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. the conduct of the war. This was the killing of Ptii-peu-niox-mox while a prisoner, held in duress in defiance of the rules of civilized war which guarantee the sanctity of a flag of truce The details of this affair, as related by several eye-witnesses and )t:ntici|)nnrs, were as follows: The surgeons had decided to use Lallocipic's cabin, where the Indians had made their tirst stand, as a hospital foi' the wounded. Near it the unfortunate Lieuteiuuit J. M. Burr()vvs lay dead, and several wounded were being attended to. The cuinhatants had passed <»n up the valley, and the distant dett)nation (tf their guns (.'ould V>e heard. The flag of truce prisoners were there under guard, and every one seemed electrified with sujipressed excitement. A wounded man came in with his shattered ai'm dangling at his side, and reported Captain Bennett killed at the front. This added to the excitement, and the attention of all was more oi- less attracted to the wounded man, when some one said, "Look out, or the Indi- ans will get away!" At this, seemingly, every one yelled, "Shoot 'em! Shoot 'em!" and on the instant there was a rattle (»f musketry on all sides. It was over in a minute, and three of the five pris- oners lay dead, another was rendered insensible by a blow, but re- covering in a few moments was shot to end his misery ; the fifth, being a Nez Perce, was spared, and the fact that they were able to control their excitement sufficiently to make this nice disc,riminati(.)n shows there was a " methotl in their madness." Some of the wit- nesses say the shooting was caused b}' an attempt on the part of the prisoners to escape, but the greater number state that a refusal by Peu-peu-mox-mox to be tied led to a struggle which ended as above. The men were angry and preferred the excitement of the fight to the unjileasant duty of g:uarding Intlians, and took the first good opportunity which offered to rid themselves of their incum- brances. Only one had an opjioitunity given him to fight for his life. This was a Willamette Indian named " Jim " or " Wolf Skin," who had a knife upon his pereon. Drawing this he fought des- perately until he was laid low with a blow on the head from a musket in the hands of a soldier who had approached him from behind. The dead prisoners were scalped in true barl)aric style. This was not the end ; the scalp and ears of the great " Yellow Bird " were taken to the Willamette Valley jis trophies of war, though at this late date it is difficult to conceive how the ears of a YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUOET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 419 slain prisoner, who had been captured under a flag of truce, could be looked upon in the light of honoralile trophies of war. There is no question about this tact, and there are living in Oregon to-day many before whose eyes these trophies were displayed. The Ore- gonian of January 5, 1850, records the fact tliat on the thirty-fii-st of December Dr. 8haw, Assistant Surgeon O. M. V., arrived in Portland, having in his possession the ears of Peu-p;'U-niox-inox, accompanied by Mr. Story, of Company A, who displayed th(i same chief's scalp. It can well be imagined with what telling effect General Wool related this incident in his official report, his various newspaper communications and [)rivate letters. The battle was renewed the folhjwing day and lasted four days longer. The incidents, as reported by Colonel Kelly, were as follows: — Eurly on the morning of the eighth the Indians appeared with increased forces, amounting; to fully six hundred warriors. Tiiey were posted as usual in the thiclt brush by tlie river — among tlie sage bushes and sand Unolls, and on tlie surround- ing liills. Tills day Lieutenant Pillow with Com|)any A, and Lieutenant Hannon with Company H, were ordered to talte and liold the brush skirting tlie river and sage bushes on tlie plain. Lieutenant Fellows with C -nipany F was directed to take and keep the possession of the point at the foot of the hill. I-ieutenant Jef- fries with Company B, Lieutenant Hand with Company I, and Captain Cornoyer with Company K, were posted on three several points on the hills with orders to maintain them and to assail ihe enemy on other points of the same hills. As usual, the Indians were driven from their position, althougli they fought with skill and bravery. On the ninth tliey did not make their appearance until al)Out ten o'clock In the morning, and tlien in somewhat diminished numbers. As I had sent to Fort Henrietta for Companies D and E, and expected tliem on the tenth, I thought it best to act on the defensive and hold our positions which were the same as on the eighth, until we could get an accession to our forces sufficient to enalile us to assail their rear and cut off tlieir retreat. An attack was made during the day on Companies A and H in tiie brushwood, and upon B on the hill, both of which were repulsed with great gallantry by those companies, and with considerable loss to the enemy. Companies F, land K also did great honor to tliemselves in repelling all approaches to their positions, although in doing so one man in Company F and one in Company I were severely wounded. Darkness as u'-l ?losed the combat, by the enemy withdrawing from the field. Owing to the Inor laency of the night the companies on the hill were withdrawn from their several positions. Company B abandoning its rifle pits wliich were made by the men of that company for its pro- tection. At early dawn on the next day the Indians were observed from our camp to be in possession of all points held by us on the preceding day. TTpon seeing them Lieutenant McAulifT of Company B gallantly observed that his company had dug those holes and after breakfast they would have them again, and well waa his declaration fulfllled, for in less than half an hour, the enemy was driven from the pits and fled to an adjoining hill which they had occupied the day before. This position was at once assailed. Captain Cornoyer with Company K, and a portion of Company I, being mounted, gallantly charged the enemy on his right flanls, 420 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 1^ It while Lit- uteimiit ftlcAuUIT' witli Cuiiipauy B diMriiouiited, rushed up the hill in fttce of u heavy lire and Mcattered them in uU dlreetioiiii. Tliey ut once tied in all direutionH to return to thiH buttletield no more, aud thus ondt'd our lon^ contented tight. The bravery of the volunteers tuul their ^ulluiit conduct in charging and dispersing tlie enemy time after time, is worthy the highest [)raise. Veteran troops coukl not have done better service. The report says that it was learned from friendly Indians that the battle was {)articipated in by Walhi Wallas. IJmatillas, Cay uses, Palouscs, and Stock Whitley's band of Des Chutes ; and that after their (h'feat some of them went to Grand R<»nde and othei^s crossed to the north side of Snake River, while Stock A\'hitley, disgusted with the manner in which the others had fought, took his baud to the Yakima country to join Kama-i-akun. The Indians were pur- sued a distance towards Snake River, and much jirovisions and cattle were captured. Nai'cisse Remond aud the other French Canadians on the Walla Walla, appealed for protection, and were escorted to the temporary camp where they were exempt from danger of molestation. The report concludes : — We have now the undisputed possession of the country south of Snake River, and I would suggest the propriety of retaining this possession until such time as it cun be occupied by the regular troops; » * * but I would suggest the propriety of following up the Indians with all possible speed, now that their hopes arc l>Iighted and their spirits broken. Unless this is done they will perhaps rally again. I must earnestly ask that supplies may be sent forward to us witliout delay. For the hwt three days none of the volunteers, except the two companies from Fort Henrietta, have had any flour. None is here, and but little at that post. We are now living on lieef and potatoes, which are found en cac/te, and tlie men are be- coming much discontented with this mode of living. Clothing for the men is much needed ixs the winter approaches. To-morrow we will remove to a more suitaiile point, where grass can be obtained in greater al)undance for our worn-out horses. A place lias been selected about two miles above Whitman Station, on the same (north) side of the Walla Walla, consecjuently I will abandon this fort, named in honor of Captain Bennett of Company F, who now sleeps beneath its stockade, and whose career of usefulness and bravery was here so sadly but nobly closed. The losses sustained by the volunteers in the five days' conflict were comparatively slight, only twenty being injured in any way. The list is as follows : Killed, Captain Charles Bennett, Company F ; Lieutenant J. M. Burrows, Company H ; Private S. S. Van Hagerman, Company I. Mortally wounded, Privates Kelso and Joseph Flemming, Company A ; Henry Crow, Company H ; Joseph Sturdevant, Company B. Wounded, Captain Lyman B. Monson, Company I ; Captain A. V. Wilson, Company A ; Captain Davis YAKIMA, WAM.A WALLA AND PUORT rtOTJND CAMPAIO.VS. 421 Lnyton, C'oiiipany 1 1 ; PrivatcH Casper Snook, T. J. Payne, F. Cral)tree, Nathan Fry, Isaac Miller and A. M. Addington, Com- pany II ; J. H. (rervais, Company K ; G. W. Smith, Company H ; Franklin Duval, Conii)any A; and Sergeant Major Taaac Miller. The loss of the Indians was placed by Colonel Kelly at aVxnit seventy-five, his report stating that thirty-nine bodies had been found by the volunteers. It is difficult to understand the reason for such a marke<l contrast in the losses sustained by the two sides, especially since the volunteers acted on the offensive and the In- dians only fought when protected by natural defenses. The ten- dency to over-estimate the loss of the defi'ated enemy is not confined to ()reg(»n ; it is as widespread as the earth's green carpet. The total footing of the estimated loss of the enemy reported by the comnuuulers of the opposing forces during the Rebellion, was far in excess of the actual number of killed, wounded and captured in both the Confederate and Union iuinies, including the deaths from disease, to which can be charged fully fifty per cent, of the mortality of war. News of the l)attle of Walla Walla reached The Dalles at the time Genei'al Wool was removini; the re"ru]ars to Vancoiiver. The courier who l)rought the first intelligence had left the scene of con- flict while the fight of the second day was raging, and, consequently, could only say that a great l)attle was in progress, several voliui- teers had been killed, and the result was yet in doubt. Adhering to his determination to let the volunteers conduct their operations — needless, in his opinion — unaided by the regular troops, the com- mander apparently paid no attention to the startling intelligence of the courier, who took passage from The Dalles upon the very boat which conveyed the troops to Vancouver. Not so the people. Ex- citement was raised to a high pitch, and many uncomplimentary remarks were made about the indifferent conduct of the troops. The Oregonian was especially bitter in its denunciations, calling attention to the circumstances of the courier and troops being upon the same steamer, in the following language: — It looks bad, to say the least, that a steamer should be loaded with U. S. troops* coming out of the Indian country at the same time that news was being brought down of a severe and bloody conflict of five days' duration, between the volunteers and a large body of Indians ; particularly so when the volunteers were nearly out of provisions, short of ammunition, and entirely destitute of other necessary articl«a 422 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. to carry out the war; and, withal, far in the Indian country, and, for aught any- body linew, surrounded by the enemy and in danger of beins? cut ol!" entirely. Are the peoi)le, the civilians, to protect theniselveG and defend the country from barba- rian n\araudei8, while those who have contracted for that service remain idle and listless in their winter quarters, eatiug, drinking, and making merry? Also appeaivd the following reirarks on the state of the war: — How goes on the war? We answer, that the U. S. troops, who are paid for fight- ing, and who have been sent here at the expense of the General C-overnment to pro- tect the people, are all housed up in good winter viuuitvis, eating, drinking, and making merry, while a few bare- footed, half-starved volunteers, who came here at their own expense, are in the field fighting the battles of their country. In every fight north, they came out first best. Thus goes the war. Volunteers can go bare- footed, can sleep without blankets, eat their liorses, if need be, while the " carpet knights" [he would have called them " Dudes" in tlii.^ age of more ample epithet- ical vocabularly] of the regular service must be well fed, well shod, and ivell blanketed, and have howitzers, withal, or they can not take tlie field. The car- casses of one hundred and fifty dead Indians at Walia Walla plains show how goes on the war. Ml'. Dryer, thinking Colonel Kelly's estimate of the number of " good Indians," made at Walla Walla, too modest, multiplied it by two. It was a little reckless under the circumstances, but such was the style of that paper when under that enthusiastic gentle- man's management. These uncomplimentary remarks were bnaight to the attention of General Wool, and the old veteran replied to the effect that he professed to do his duty :is he unde'-stood it ; that the people of Oregon might say what they pleased, it was not t' ^ first time he had had dogs barking at his heels. This was too much for the Oregonian; it smote General Wool hip and thigh; said he was in his dotage, was an old woman, had insulted ^he people and called them dogs. The object of these fierce tirades made no I'eply, yet it may well be imagined that they only served to make him more set in his purpose to pay no attention whatever to the movements of Governor Curry's army, but to act entirely upon his own resi)onsil)ility at his own chosen time. He had decided to occupy the India.i country with a strong force in the spring, and was awaiting the arrival of the 9th regiment to enable him to do so. In January he ordered Captain (now General) Ord's company of dragoons to San Francisco, and was abused foi- send- ing troops out of the country and depriving the people of the pro- tection they had a right to expect frt)m the Government. These complaints were soon silenced by the arrival of the 9th regiment, six buudr^d of whom were lauded at Vancouver the last week in January YAKIMA, WAF.r.A WALLA AND PUaET .SOHND CAMPAIONS. 428 by the stt^amers Orcij;on and Republic^ two hundred more being sent tothc So'ind. The San Francisco papers published interviews with theCxenend, who had icturned to that city, in which he was made to state tliat tlic troul)le>» in Oregon were caused in V>oth cases l)y the whites, and that ahmg tlic Columbia there was no war other than that created by the unwarranted conduct of Governor Cun'y in sending Oregon trooj^s into Washington Territory, at great expense to the Govei-nnicnt, to attack Indians from whom the people of Oregon had no reason to apprehend any danger to themselves whatever. This drew out two columns of the "Oregon style" from the exasperated e<litor of the Oregonian^ was severely com- mented upon by the other papi^rs, and caused much indignation among the people generally. It was at this time General Wool wrote the letter to the National Intelligevcer, which has been referred to, giving a history of the cause and progress of the war, and laying ])articular stress upon the killing and mutilation of Peii-peu-mox-niox. It was several months before a copy of this reached Oregon, but when it did another baptism of wrath was showered upon the gray hairs of the Mexican hero. On the ninth of Fel)ruary the Oregon Legislature addressed a memorial to the President, recpiesting the removal of General Wool from command of tliis department. About the same time, Governor Stevens, who had returneil in safety, addressed a lung conununicati(m to the Sec- retary of War, stating his personal grievances and preferring charges against (ireneral Wool. lie made it appear that his innnediate and safe return was the great ([uestion of the hour, and in neglecting, or refusing, to provide for this the commanding officer had been guilty of a most heinous crime. General Wocd had taken the view that Governor Stevens' party was ai >■ to look out for itself ; that if the executi\ e of Washington T( 'iitorv did not r«'turn to the seat of Government for si.\ nu)nths, the material interests of tjie Terri- tory would not be in the lejust jeopardized ; at least the necessity of his immediate retiu'n was not great enough to justify him in making an invasion of the Indian country in the dead of winter. Governor Stevens' opinion of his own importance seems to have been sonu'what great<'r than this. From this letter of tl^ Governor are gleaned tiie incidents attending his return journey. At the Hellgate b« wes met by fourteen Nez I'erces, among whom were 424 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Spotted Eagle, Looking Glass and Three Feathers, who, after a brief council, invited him to go to their country, where a large furce of braves would escort him to The Dalles. They united with his party, and all crossed the Bitterroot Mountains on the fourteenth of November, passing through three feet of snow, and reached the Coeur d'Alene Mission on the twenty-fifth. Here he heard con- tradictory and vague rumors of the events happening below, and of the condition of affairs, nothing appearing certain except the fact that the Walla Wallas, Cayuses and Uinatillas cherished a hostile spirit, rendering it dangerous foi' him to attempt to ])ass through that region without a strong escort. He pushed on to the Spokane country, where he held a council with the three tribes oi Spokanes, Coeur d'Alenes and Colvilles, Mr. McDonald, Hudson's Bay Com- pany agent at Fort Colville, and the Jesuit Fathers stationed at that point, being present. The Indians were much excited and were wavering between peace and war. " After a stormy council of several days,'' so says the comnumication, "the Spokanes, Cceur d'Alenes and Cclvilles were entirely conciliated, and promised they would reject all ovei'tures of the hostile Indians, and continue the firm friends of the Avhites," He augmented his party, and made a forced nuirch to the Clearwater, at La[)\vai, where the Nez Perces were assembled. He was tiiere infoi'med that thtf Walla Walla country was occu[»ied by hostile Indians, and it would be unsafe to attempt a passage through unguarded. While nego- tiations were in progress for a body guard of one hundred and fifty braves to escort him to The Dalles, news was received that the hostiles had been driven out of the country by the volnntters ; and the next day he started with sixty-nine well armed Nez Perces, and reached Walla Walla without encountering any opposition. There he found the Oregon volunteers encamped, also the French settlers before alluded to, the friendly Indians, and B. F. Shaw, Colonel of Washington Territory Militia and Special Indian Agent. The Governor placed him in command, with instructions to fortify and maintain his gi-ound in case the Oregon troops should return home. He then disbanded his Nez Perce auxiliaries, and continued his journey to the seat of governnuiit at Olympia. The communica- tion concludes with the following specific chai'ges : — YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUGET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 425 Mr. Secketaky— Major General Wool, cotnTnanding the Pacific Division, neg- lected and refused to send a force to the relief of myself and party, when known to be in imminent danger, and helleved by those who were not less capable of judging, to be coming on to certain deutl), nnd this when he bad at his command un efticitnt force of regular troops. He refused to sanction the ugreenunt made between Gov- ernor Mason and Major Raines for troops to be sent to my assistance, and ordered them to dislitmd. It was reserved for the Oregon troops to rescue us. The only demonstration made by Major Haines resulted in showing his utter incapacity to command in the field. As has heretofore been said, his expedition wgainst the Yakimas effected nothing but driving the Indians into the very country through which I nmst juiss to reach the settlements. I therefore j)refer chiirges 'igainst General Wool. I accuse him of utter and signal inciipacity, of criminal neglect of my safety. I ask for an investigation into the matter, and for his removal from command. Until this epistle saw the light, it was the general opinion that Major Raines iintl Colonel Nesniith had acconiplishtd consid- erable when they invaded the Yakima countiy and compelled the hostile bands of Kamai-akun to evacuate it; but Governor Stevens, viewing it simi)ly in the light of the effect it had upon him j)ersonally, and not with regard to the punishment of the In- dians or the safety of the people generally, charged Major Haines with "utter incaj)acity," because he drove "the Indians into the very country thi'ough which I nmst pass.'' lie also accused General Wool of "utter and signal incapacity," h cause of a "criminal neg- lect of my safety." It is no won(1 tliat neither the President nor the Secretary of War paid the ii ..~i attention to such frivolous charges so gravely made. Nor did a mciuori.il voted by the Ore- gon Legislature on the ninth of February, asking the removal of General Wool, receive any better treatment. The condition of affairs up to this time had been much compli- cated T)y the hostile attitude of Indians living along Piitret Sound. When Major Haller started from The Dalles upon his infortunate invasion of the Yakima country, it will be remembered that Lieu- tenant W. A. Slaughter undertook to go from Ft. Steil-Moom through the Natchess Pass with forty men, and form ." ' iiction with him. Haller was defeated and Slaughter fell back to White River, where he was joined by Captain M. Maloney with seventy- five men. On the twenty-fourth of October Captain Gilmore Hays joined him with a company of volunteers from Olympia, and the whole force took up its march for the Natchess Pass, expecting to co-operate with Major Raines and Colonel Nesmith. who were about to invade the Yakima country in force. A few days later, having 426 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLKY. been informed by courier that Major Raines would not start for some weeks, his provisions beginning to run low, and tlie lateness of the season threatening soon to blockade the mountains with snow, lie deemed it judicious to return to Ft. Steilacoom, especially as the Sound Indians \vere evincing a hostile spirit, and the invasion of warlike tribes from British Columbia was feared. These North- ern Indians, like the Saxons, Danes and Norsemen of old, were ac- customed to make long coasting voyages in their inunense war ca- noes, and ipvade whatever region they might see fit. Puget Sound Indians and, after its settlement, the whites, were fre([uent sufferers from these [)lundering raids, AVhile returning, IVIaloney and Hays were attacked by Indians on White liiver, and a severe engage- ment followed, resulting, as reported, in the death of one regular, the wounding of one volunteer, and the killing of forty Indians. The force continued its retreat to Ft. Steilacoom. The greatest alarm prevailed among the settlers of that region. They hastened to points of safety with their faiiiilies, and built stockades and block-houses for their protection. Many of the abandoned cabins were destroyed by the Indians. This was the condition in which Governor Stevens found things when he reached Olymjiia on the nineteenth of January. Three days later he issued a call for six companies of volunteers to serve on the Sound, and three companies to be recruited along the Co- lumbia for service east of the mountains. He also made arrange- ments with Captain Gansevoort, of the I'nited States steamer Active^ to cruise on the Sound l»elow Seattle, on the lookout for Northern Indians; and requested Governor ]>ouglas, of the Hudson's Bay Company, to keep a vessel ci-uisiug in the vicinity of Victoria, and warn him of the approach of war canoes. A few days later the Indians attacked Seattle, burned and destroyed everything in King County, except Seattle itself, and the little settlement of Alki. About this time the force under Colonel Wright ari'ived from San Francisco, and Lieutenant-Colonel Casey was sent to Puget Sound with two hundred men. The organized forces on the Sound were divided into three battalions — "Northern," "Cintral" and "South- ern" — whi(di established separate head(piarter>. and constructed a chain of block-houses from Yelm Prairie to Bellingham Bay. The central position of the regulars was at Muckleshoot Prairie. The YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUGET SOUND CAMPAIGNS. 427 naval forces were stationed at Seattle, ami were commanded at this time by Cai)tain Swai-twout. Thus was the Sound guarded while Governor Stevens was making prepai-atious ior an invasion of the country east of the mountains. A return to the Oregon volunteers left in winter camp at Walla Walla is now necessaiy. The Oregon troops held possession of the Walla Walla country during tlie winter, occasionally moving, for convenience, to a new camping ground. Though the route to The Dalles was open and comparatively free from danger of attack upon trains of supplies, but limited (quantities of those necessaries reached the front. The troops depended cliiefl}' upon meat, i)rocured by killing caj>tured stock, and, at times, b(nng I'educed to an uninviting fare of horse meat. The officers of the commissary department were too busy running up big l)ills of ex[)ense for the Government to pay, to give much attention to the suffering men in the field. Warndy clad and bountifully fed at The Dalles, how coulil they be expected to ap- preciate the necessities of the ragged and half -starved v(jlunteers, bravely enduring the rigors of winter in the enemy's country? Soon after the battle of Walla Walla, Lieutenant-Colonel Kelly proceeded to the AVillamette Valley temporarily, and during his absence an election occurred to fill the vacancies caused by the res- ignation of Colonel Nesmith and Major Arnisti'ong, in pursuance of instructions from head(piarters. This resulted in the choice of Captain Thomas R. Cornelius, Colonel, and Ca[)tain N. A. Cor- noyer, Major. About the middle of January Governor Cui'ry issued a proclamation calling for five companies — one each from Linn, Marion, Polk, Yamhill, and Clackamas — to take the place of those disbanded, also forty men to ivcruit Cornoyer's company of scouts from French Prairie. These were in due time recruited, mustered in, and marched to the camp at Walla AValla. The French settlers and friendly Lidians were sent to The Dalles, and on the tenth of March Colonel Cornelius marched with his entire command in search of the enemy. In two days they reached Snake River at Fisli-hook Bend. On the opposite side was an Indian village, whose inhabi- tants, thinking the stream could nt)t be crossed, were very insulting and defiant, until the most demonstrative one was laid low with a bullet. At the same time the volunteers launched the boats they had prepared, and the savages fled in terror. They were pursued 428 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. by scouting parties, who overtook them as they were about cross- ing the Columbia near the mouth of the Yakima, and succeeded in killing one of them and capturing some horses. On the fourteenth the entire command moved up Palouse and Snake rivers, and en- camped three miles above tlie falls. Here they remained several days and were reduced to the necessity of subsisting upon horse meat. So poorly was the commissary department administered, that even in their winter camp they had l)een for weeks at a time without receiving supplies; and now that they were on the move their chances for being fed upon regular rations were much less. A few days of Cayuse diet were all the fresh levies could stand. They had heard of some of the privations, including the ecpiine provender, which the men at the front had endured; but it was as a " tale that is told," and made slight impression upon their minds. Here, however, was the actual reality exjjeiienced in their own proper persons, and the impression was on their stomach and more vivid and lasting. They mutinied, and declared an intention to march back to The Dalles at once. They were told of the disgrace of turning back in the face of the enemy, of the hardships of cold and hunger the veterans had endured, and were promised a remod- eling of the bill of fare as quickly as possible. They finally con- sented to give the commissary department one day of grace, and be- fore that time expired provisions arrived and the mutiny was at an end. The command marched to White Bluifs, on the Columbia, without encountering any Indians. On the sixth of April they crossed to the west side of the river at the mouth of the Yakima, and followed the stream down to a point opposite Fort Walla Walla. Here a limited amount of supplies was received, and the homeward march to The Dalles was taken up by way of the Yakima country. About the sixteenth of April, the force reached the mouth of Satas Creek on the Yakima River, and went into camp. A divid- ing ridge only shut out from them a view of the valley of the reser- vation, where they had found plenty of cattle the fall before. Since leaving the Palouse Falls, one-half their subsistence had been upon horse meat and they yearned for the fresh meat of the Yakimas. In the morning Captain Hembree, with five or six men, croBsed the creek, and commenced ascending the bluffs to the north. YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUGET SOUITD CAMPAIGNS. 429 He was going a short distance to see if any beef cattle could be discovered, and, while passing to the right of a hill, the volunteers in camp discovered some forty loose horses galloping around the opposite side of it towards him. Suddenly, as those hoi*ses reached a point between the camp and the Captain, every one of them was found to have an Indian rider ; and the next instant, with a savage yell, the \akiraas charged upon the little squad of whites. Cap- tain Hembree fell from his horse, and in a minute was scalped and lifeless. Two of the assailants were shot by him in the brief struggle, and another was killed by one of the soldiers, all of whom broke through the lines and escaped. The Indians carried off their dead, but afterwards acknowledged the loss of two braves in the death struggle with the white chief. Upon the instant that the attack was discovered the alarm was given in camp, and Major Cornoyer, with a few hststily gathered men, dashed across to the rescue. They had hardly started when tiring was commenced on the south side of the creek by the Indians, who were making a general move to 8tamj)ede the soldiers' horses. Captain Hembree was found stretched upon the ground, naked, mutilated, dead. The effort to stampede the horses failed, and the Indians disappeared as suddenly as they had come. That day Major Cornoyer, in com- mand of several companies of the regiment, followed the enemy, and an engagement ensued that resulted in driving the Indians from their fortified stronghold, and the killing of six of them with no loss to the whites. The ensuing day saw the line of march for The Dalles resumed by the entire force, bearing with them the body of the gallant Hembree. Without incident, other than the killing of two Indians who were met in the trail, the volunteers reached Klickitat Valley, and camped to recruit their stock, and received orders for mustering out of service. While occupying this camp, April 28th, a band of some fifty hostiles made a dash upon the grazing stock of the commauvi, and stampeding them, captured three hundred and ninety head of horses, which left the Oregon volunteers dismounted. The regulars at The Dalles came to their assistance, but having no orders to pursue the enemy, Kama-i-akun was left to fall back slowly to the north unmolested. Thus ended the campaign, and the volunteers who had so gallantly fought in the field and endured uucomplaiaingly so 430 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. many unnecessary privations, were mustered out, with the excep- tion i»f the company from Clackamas, and found their way home- ward without even' a word of thanks from the Governor, at whose call they had h-ft their homes and business. They were poorer in purse, poorer in ilt'sh and poorer still in their faith in humanity, but they had gained a vast finid of experience. The people, however, were more generous in their conduct. The citizens of Yandiill gave a grand bampiet to the volunteers from tliat county, at Lafayette, on ihe fifteenth of May ; and the Washington county troops were entertained at Hillsboro on the thirty-first. Governor Curry called for two companies to guard the south side of the Columbia, and on this subject the Oregonian remarked : — None of those in the field were willing to vohmteer for the re((uired service, showing too plainly tliat tlieir previous liardsliips had talien from them uU desire to run iiii.v risk l)y u second campaign. Colonel Cornelius and his command have done all tliut it wa^ possible to do; they nobly responded to the call; they left home when their services were needed ; they endured tlie exposure and fatigue of a cold, inclement winter ; they were left (by somebody) to i)rovision themselves. « » « Tliey are left to thank themselves for the imjwrtant services ren<lered the country. No executive otHcial is jiresent to welcome them back, and, in the name of the people, thank them for having so nobly done their duty. They arrive and are mustered out like so many heatlien. The two companies were raised and left Portland on the four- teenth of June for The Dalles, commanded by Captains Wilson and Wilbur. The mal-administration of affairs in the commissary department was the subject of much controversy at the end of the campaign. Frequent complaints had been made during the winter, ])ut the fol- lowing somewhat disconnected and incoherent, but easily compre- hended, conununication, sent to the Oregonian from The Dalles on the twenty-first of April and signed "A Horse-fed Volunteer," wsis the signal for a war of words and printer's ink: — It hns become my painful duty to announce, through your paper, to the citizens of the Willamette, the treatment the volunteers have received, and tlieir apprecia- tion of the same. Six months ago they volunteered in good faith, to fight their country's foe. They expected to meet with ordinary hardships and privations, but they did not expect to starve, to eat poor old niares and^ colts. « ♦ » our business has been neglected, on account of which we have sustained heavy losses, our property has been sold to pay taxes, and all by the well-wishers of the Willam- ette; and now, when discharges are called for, the (governor says "The country must be protected," and that, too, by us. If we had been treated as we should have been, we would willingly remain in the field till the close of the war. }3ut since the congregated wisdom of Oregon Territory convened at Salem, decreed that a t^.nr- -mwifet. YAKIMA, WALLA WALLA AND PUGET SOUIJD CAMPAIGNS. 481 Cayiise horse was worth a» much as a volunteer and should receive the same pay ; notwlthstaudlnfj, the pack mnsters, last winter, would load them down to the guards, one-half with oats mid the other half witli whisky, neither of whieh ever reached the half-clad, half starved volunteers, and (he quarterinnster jxilitely pmm- Ises to pay to a transcendentally /xifriofic Jew $J4 00 per dozen for hickory shirts, which cost that noble man from ^3.")i> to|4.(K); the volunteers to pay $2 0) for each shirt. Now there are boys here who have the lilood of '"« coursin;^ throuj?h their veins with railroad velocity, who say the country must and shall be protected, Init they can not, and will not. endure such treatment; that they will come home and take the desj)erate chances with the citizens, at least till they can settle their ac- counts and outfit themselves for a new campaign, not being willing to trust to the Departments for the same. The discussion was v(n'y warm and was conducted on a political basis. Early in the campaign, the previous Novenil)cr, the acute sense of propriety possessed by Mr. Busli, editor of the Statesman, and other leaders of tlu^ Democracy, wassJiock(^d by the knowledge tliat a few Wliigs and Know-nothings held positions in the army. There was a loud outcry at this infringement of the undisputed right of the party in [)(»ssession of the governm<;;nt to hold all the offices and enjoy all the emolinnents and pei'fiuisites. Spirited conununications apjuared in th(^ Statesman, in which the nK>tto, "To the victors belong the spoils," was frequently quoted as hav- ing the authority of law and the gos[)el. A. M. Belt, Surgeon Genei'al, was specially singled out for attack, and the (jrovernor was informed that coniftetent surgeons were to be found in the Demo- cratic ranks. Finally, a petition was circulated through the Valley, which received so many signatures that the Governor did not dare to longer remain unmindful of the wishes of his political support- ers. A clean sweep wjis made in evtsry office occupied by a Whig where the executive possessed the appointing power, from the ob- noxious Surgeon to the officers and clerks in the commissary de- partment, contractors, and mule drivers, and a good Democrat given the position. This done, they dee[)ly lamented the fact that many of the commissioned officers in the field were Whigs, but, being eleot^ed to their positions, (toidd not be removed except for cause. Too much attention was paid to politics and securing the spoils, to provide for the wants of the men in the field. When the contro- versy arose the officers at The Dalles reported to the Governor that there had always been an ample .supply of provisions on hand, but that they could get no escorts for their safe transportation to the frout. This Colonel Cornelius denied, and demanded a eouit of 432 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. inquiry, which Governor Curry declined to order, taking care in his letter of refusal to state that the failure of supi)lie8 could not be attributed to any fault or carelessness of Colonel Cornelius, and to highly compliment him for his conduct during the campaign. Thus the officer was molliiied and the dangerous breakers of an investi- gation were avoided. Governor Curry then sailed for the East to look after an appropriation by Congress to defray the expenses of his war. The subject had already come up, and General Wool's report, the character of which can be surmised fi-om his previous conduct and expressed opinions, had caused the National Legisla- ture to refuse to appropriate anything whatever. •i,* !> I..; ■ ,' ,. CHAPTER XXV. CLOSING SCENES OF THE WAR ON ROGUE RIVER. Reorganisation of the Volunteers — Appointment oj" General Lameiich — Removal of the Table Rock Band to the Coant Reservatioih — The Flag of T'ruce Incident — Battle of Eight-Dollar Mountain — Cam- paign to Big Meadoios — Battle at the Bar — Fort Lamerick Built in Big Meadows — Massacre at Gold Beach — The Regulars Assume the Offensive — They Chastise the Indians at Different Places — Coun- cil of <>ak Flat — Battle between Chief John and Captain Smith — The Volunteers drfeat Liinpij and George — All the llostilei iSurren- der and are Taken to the Coast Reservation. DUKING the winter of 1855-6 there was no fighting in South- ern Oregon. The volunteers lay all winter statioued at all the strategical points for the protection of the settlements from raids by the Indians, who remained secluded in the mountains. The ab- surdity of having two battalions with inde|)endent commanders was soon recognize;!, and on the seventii of December thev were united and regimental officers elected. R(ibert L. Williams was chosen Colonel, W. J. Martin, Lieutenant-Ct)lonel, and James Bruce, Major. The regiment, which was designated the " Second Regiment of Oregon Mounted Volunteei-s," consisted of the coni[)anies of Cap- tains Bailey, Buoy, Keeney, Rice, O'Neal, Wilkinson, Alcorn, Gor- don, Chapman, and Bledsoe, aggregating on paper nine hundred and one rank and file, the effective force being inuclj less. In Feb- ruary Major Bruce and Captains O'Neal, Rice, Alcorn and Wilkin- son preferred charges against Colonel Williams, alleging intentional inactivity, etc. They were based upon the connection Colonel Williams was supposed to have with a clique of speculators, whose pecuniary interests lay in the direction of an indefinite prolongation of the wax. The same speculative and politicaJ complications ex- 484 HI6T0HT OJ WILLAMETTE VALLEY. isted here as we have seeu were so prcKluetive of harm in the oper- ations along tlie Colutnljia, and it is unnecessary to refer to theji in detail. It is enough to say that the war was declared a " God- send " by those who were of the ruling political faith and had any hold upon the Government; and the consequence was, that more than one man of influence would have been sorry to see it ter- minated too (juickly. The outcome of the charges was the ap})()int- ment of J. K. Lamerick as Brigadier-General \o take supreme com- mand »>f the forces, Colonel Williams being thus relieved of the responsibility, though retaining his command. In Fel>ruary two- thirds of the men received their discharge, and new companies were enlisted, commanded by O'Neal, Sheffield, George, Bushey, M. M. Williams, Wallan, Robertson, and Barnes. The companies were composed chiefly of discharged men, who re-enlisted almost unani- mously. On the eighteenth of March regimental officers were elected, John Kelsey becoming Colonel, W. W. Chapman, Lieuten- ant-Colonel, and James Bruce and W. L. Latshaw, Majors of the two battalions. Subsequent to the events just detailed, a transaction of con- siderable importance took place. This was the removal of Chief Sam's baud to the reservation west of the Willamette Valley. The Table Rock band took no part in the massacre of the ninth of October. On the contrary, the members of that band crossed the river to Fort Lane, and besought the protection of Captain Smith from the violence of the white settlere, which, but foi- such protec- tion, would surely have befallen them. During the succeeding months they remained under the immediate care of Captain Smith and Agent Ambrose, and gave not the remotest cause for 8Us[)icion on the part of the whites. Finally, when the Bureau of Indian Affairs decided to remove all the natives from Southern Oreg<m, the Table Rock band was sent to the permanent reservation about Yaquina Bay. Such was the state of public sentiment that a guard of one hundred soldiers was deemed necessary in order to protect them on their progress northward. And this, notwith- standing the fact that by their friendship for the whites, they had incurred the enmity of all the hostile Indians on Rogue River. The people of the Willamette Valley, jealous of the removal of warriors into their neighborhood, and scarce undei'standing the MM^m^^ff'^ww m^fH CL08INO SCENES OP THE WAR ON ROOrE niVER. m situation of affairs, hpM public meetings to consider the question of raising an armed force to resist their coming ; but the excitement soon calmed, and the Indians found a final home by the shores of the Pacific. A few days later — about th(i middle of February, Chiefs Linipy and George, with thirty mounted warriors, went to Fort Lane with a flag of truce, desiring to have a talk and secure possession of some squaws. As soon as their pi'esence was known, there was great excitement, and the volunteers prepared to attack them. Thoy were, however, notified by Captain Smith that he recognized the flag of truce and would guard its sanctity ; and the result was the warriors were permitted to depart in safety. The indignation of the people was intense, and the regular army, from Genei-al Wool and Captain Smith down to the sutler, was anathe- matized. The ^SV«//W/ discharged fiery editoi'ials, similar to those the Oregonian was about the same time directing at General Wool, and with no better residt. All this abuse of the regular army be- cause its commanders insisted upon tlischarging their full duty and not being governed in tlieir conduct by passion, prejudice or speculation, served only to delay and reduce the amount of Govern- ment appropriations for the exp mses of the war, and proved very costly indeed for the contractors. Hostilities began in earnest towards the end of March. On the morning of the twenty-fourth word was received at the headtpiarters of General Lamerick, at Vannoy's Ferry, that two men had been killed while in camp at the base of Eight-Dollar Mountain, and another man mortally wounded in the same vicinity. Captain Hugh O'Neal hastened with his company to Fort Hays, where was but a small garrison, and arrived just in time to be driven into the fort with the loss of one man. The Indians besieged the fort till morning, and then retired southward, capturing a pack train, and killing one man and wounding another. Here they were overtaken by Major Bruce at the head of several companies. The foremost of these engaged the enemy while yet the remainder were dis- mounting. All horses were left at the foot of the hill which it was necessaiy to ascend to find the enemy ; and a long I'ne of battle, reaching several hundred yards along the side of the moun- tain, was formed, and the troops advanced up the rise. The battle was a lively one ; the rattle of rifles and revolvers was almost con- 486 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLKT. tiuuous, and frequent attempts were made by each party to charge the other. All sought cover, and there was little chance for life for the man who neglected thus to protect himself. At this inter- esting juncture a shout was raised that the Indians were making off with the horses, left at the foot of the hill. A number of the savages, spying the condition of affairs ran tastily to the npot and mounting some and le»iling others, escaped with some fifteen of the animals belonging to Abel George's Yi'eka company. The most of the fighting for a time was done by M. M. WiUiams and about a score of his ])ravest men, who stood their ground valiantly, and only retreated when the Indians had nearly or (piite surrounded them. Alcorn's men and othei-s fought well, also, but a gi-eat many either ran away during the fight, or else could not be brought into it at all. Over two hundred men were within sound of the firing, but not one-half that number took any part in the fight, and probably not over fifty engaged in it with energy and resolution. A hundred or more Indians held with determination the hill and the thick woods, and successfully barred the way. Against this force the volunteers effected nothing. They soon began to retiry, and gaining the base of the hill, mounted and returned to Fort Hays, hardly yet sensible of a defeat. The Indians withdrew in their characteristic manner, and the battle of EiglitD(^llar Moun- tain was ended. Early in April, General Lamerick determined upon a rampaign to Big Meadows, the rendezvous of the hostiles. Tli. Southern Battalion, under Lieutenant Colonel Chajmian and Major Bruce, started on the fourteenth of April and mairhed down the south side of Rogue River, halting at Peavine Mountain On the sev- enteenth, Colonel Kelsey and Major Latshaw march('<l from Fort Leland, on Grave Creek, with the ^'orthern Battalion, and pro- ceexied to the Little Meadows of Rogue River, some twelve miles from the camp of the other battalion. Chapman and Bruce then joined him, raising the force to five hundred and thirty-five men. They camped two miles north of tlie river, on a high terrace, a breastwork of pine logs enclosing the encampment. Scouts located the Indian "amp on a large '»ar on the south side of the river and three miles further down. Several days were spent in reconnoiter- ing, and then it was decided to make an attack. General Lame- CLOSING ar.CVlT.H OF THE WAR ON ROGUE RIVER. 487 rick ordered Maj<M' iJiucc to cross the river and cut off the retreat of the Indinns, while Colonel Kelsey was to move on the north side until dii'ectly opposite the camp, and then attack it from across the stream. Hoth detaclinicnts started out to execute thcvse orders, but when tilt' liver wa*i reached Bruce 's men refused to cross in the two canvas lioats bi'ought f<>r that purpose. This is a fair example of the difficulties the officers had to contend with. Every volunteer thought himself as good as his superior officers, and refused to obey all orders he did not deem judicious. Under such circumstances it is no wonder so large a force accomplished so little. Major Bruce being thus compelled to remain on the north side of the river, concluded to move down .stream and join Colonel Kel- sey at the 1)ar. Meanwhile, this commander had reached a point on the <leclivity nearly op|>osite his objective point, and started di- rectly down hill, following a ridge which afforded comparatively little oV)stru<'ti()n to his advance. The detachment was formed in line of battle, and rushed down and took position on the bank of the river facing the Indian encampment on the bar, and opened a brisk fire upon the enemy. The savages were thrown into confu- sion by tiie sudden attack, and did not return the fire for some time. The women and children, the formei' carrying heavy pa<;ks, soon left the camp and passed up the hill toward the Illinois River, while a gi'eater part of the males sought shelter in the edge of the fir woods behind their encampment, and watdied the movements of the whites. Major Bruce arriv^^d with his command, and taking a position on the left, began firing at the enemy, who, however, were in positions of comparative safety. Desultory and ineffectual firing was kej>t up all day, but no means of crossing the river being at hand, nothing could be done to complete the victory. It is sup- posed that (juite a number of Indians w«>re killed, while the only loHH to the whites was the mortal wounding of Elias Mercer, and the severe wounding of John Ib'iiry (Mifl . In the evening the whole force went into camp at the Big Meadows, six miles below the forn.'M' camp. On the follow ing morning Colonel Kelsey and Major Latshaw^ w^ith one hundred and fifty men went to a point on the river two miles l>elo\v the bar, with the expectation of cro-ssing to the south side. At the same time Lieutenant-Cohmel Chapman with one hundred men marched to the liattle-grouud of the pre- 438 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. vious) day to engage the enemy if still there. The former found Indians scattered along the shore, who showed fight, consequently the detachment did not cross. Lieutenant-Colonel Chapman found no Indians at the bar, and returned. Major Bruce had gone in another direction with one hundred men, and he also retnined with- out having accomplished anything. On the twenty-ninth the regi- ment encamped on the bar from which the Indians had been driven. Scouts soon ascertained that the Indians had abandoned that region, and it being impracticable to follow them, the regiment broke camp on the first of May, Ive companies taking permanent station in Big Meadows, which was called " Fort Lamerick," and the others re- turning to Fort Leland. The chief accomplishment of this cam- paign was to add greatly to the bill for supplies which the con- tractoi-s were running up against the day of settlement. In the Spring of 185G a new complication was introduced into the troubles in Southern Oregon. The Indians of the coast had remained peaceful, though those living at and below the mouth of Rogue River were urgently solicited to join the hostiles. Their relations with the settlei-s and miners had been none too pleasant for a year past, and several incidents had occurred to intensify the natural feeling of race antagonism. Ben Wright, of Modoc fame, was the agent in charge of the Indians in that region, having his residence at Gold Beach at the mouth of Rogue River. At Port Orford, thirty miles north, was a military post known as "Fort Orford," and garrisoned by Captain Reynolds' company of the lUl Artillery. During the winter, and at the instance of Agent Wright, a volunteer company of thirty-three men, under Captain John Po- land, occupied a strongly fortified post at Big Bend, some fifteen miles up the river, wliere they served to separate the hostiles from the Indians below. About the first of February they abandoned this post and returned to Gold Beach. Wright, observing the grow- ing discontent of the natives, put forth every effort to induce them to go to the temporary reservation at Port Orford, where they would be safe from the attack of ill-disposed whites and the solicitations of hostile Indians. It has always been supposed that it vvas owing to the intriguing of one man that this effect was not brought about. This man was an Indian of some eastern tribe — Canadian, it was said — and had been with Fremont on his last expedition ten years CLOSING SCRNKS OF THE WAK OJJ ROGUE RIVEB. 43y before. Enos, called by the Indians "Acnes," had become a con- fidant of \N^ip:ht's to thr extent of knowing his plans for the peace- ful subjugation ot the Indians. Enos laid with the braves a far- reaching [)l!in to destroy utterly the small colony of whites; and this done, tt> join the V)ands of savages who were waging war, and to defeat and drive from the country the invadere who so harrowed the Indian soul. The first step in Enos' portentous plan was to slaughter Wright and the settlers along the coast. On the evening of February 22, having completed his arrangements, Enos, with a sufficient force of his Indians, fell upon the scattered settlement at the south side of the mouth of the river, and finding Agent Wright alone in his cabin, entertKl it seen, but unsuspected, by him, and with an axe or club slaughtered this hero of a liundred bloody fighta. So died, perlia[)s, the greatest of Indian fighters whom this Coast ever knew. Concluding this villainy, the Indians sought new victims, and dur- ing the night killed mercilessly, with shot or blows, twenty-four or twenty-five persons, of whom the list is here presented as given by various authorities: Captain Ben Wright, Captain John Poland, John Geisel and three children, Joseph tSeroc and two children, J. H. Braun, E. W. Howe, Barney Castle, George McClusky, Patrick McCollough, Samuel Hendrick, W. li. TuUus, Joseph Wagoner, Seaman, Lorenzo Warner, George Reed, John Idles, Martin Reed, Henry Lawrence, Guy C. Holcomb, and Joseph Wilkinson. Mrs. Geisel and hei- remaining children, Mary and Annie, were taken prisoners. Aftt'r suffering the worst of hardships at the hands of the Indians, they were delivered from them at a later date, and now live to recount with tears the story of their bereavement and captivity. A large portion of the inhabitants had gathered on that fateful night at Big Flat to attend a dance given there, and so failed of death; and on the morrow these .set out for the village, and on arriving there found tin; fearful renuiins of the butchery. The corpses were burietl; and the remaining population, numlxjring, perhaps, one hundred and thirty men, scantily supplied with fire- arms and ])rovisions, sought jtrotection in a fort which had been constructeil in anticipation of such need. Here the survivors gath- ered and for a time sustained a state of siege with the added horroi-s of a possible death by starvation. Theii- only communication from 440 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. without was by means of two small coastim* schooners which made occasional trips to Port Orford or Crescent City. The Indians sur- rounded them and commanded every apjjroach by land. Meantime, the savages were not iille. Every dwelling and every piece of property of whatever ilesci'i[)tion that fire could touch was desti'oyed. The country was devastated, and, lieside the fort besii^gcd, only the station of Port Orford remained uihabited. The buildings at Gold Beach were all burned, and an estimate of the [)r()j)t'rty destroyed along the coast fixes the danuige at 8r_'.">,00(). Subsecjucnt to the first attack a nuud«er of other persons were killed by the Indians, these being Henry Bullen, L. AV. Oliver, Danitl Richardson, Adolf Schmoldt, Oliver Cantwell, Ste|)hen Taylor, and George Ti-ickey. By an unhappy chance H, I. Gcrow, merchant; John O'Brien, miner; Sylvester Long, farmer; William Thompson and Richard Gay, boat- men, and Felix McCue, were drowned in the breakers opposite the fort while bringing j:M and pro\ isions from Port Orford. Captain Davis and Henr}- Defremany succeeded in swimming ashore and reaching the fort. Messengers from the beleaguered settlers succeeded in reaching Port Oi'ford and Crescent City. At the former place. Captain Reynolds, who only had twenty-six men, did not dare go to their aid and leave the place uni)rotected. The unfortunate party mentioned above at once started witii provisions to their relief. At Crescent City was Captain Jones with a company of regulars, who, as he was under marching orders from (leneral Wool for a concerted movement of all the troops against the hostiles, was not at liberty to go to the relief of the settlers at (iold Beach. The volunteers in Rogue River Valley, whin appealed to, also declined to go, alleging a fear of leaving the settlements exposed. A company of volunteers was formed at Crescent City, connnanded by Captain G. H. Abbott. On the eighth of March Lieutenant-Colonel Buchanan arrived at Crescent City from San Francisco with a company of regulars under Ca[)tain E. O. C. Ord, afterwards Major-General, and with Jones' regulars and Abbott's volunteers, marched northward. Abbott was some distance in advance, and encountered the Chetco and Pistol River Indians, losing one man and having several wounded. When the regulars arrived, and rescued them, they were surrouuded by Indians and sheltered be- CLOSING SCENES OF THE WAR ON ROGUE RIVER. 441 hind logs on the beach. The whole force remained in the vicinity a few days, until they had severely chastised tiie savages and destroyed their village. On the twentieth of March Lieutenant-Colonel Buchanan arrived at the mouth of Rogue River, having left Ca[)tain Abbott at Pistol River to keep open communications with Crescent City, the base of supplies. Operations began by an assault upt)n the Makanootenai ranchcria, about ten miles up-stream and four or six below Big Beml. Captains Ord and Jones took the town, killing several Indians and driving tlie rest to their canoes. One man, Sergeant Nash, was severely wounded. A few days later Ca})tain (now General) Augur, with a small detachment, reached the mouth of Illinois River and found some ten or twelve Indians belonging to John or Limpy's band, and fough* them. The Indians strove des- perately and live of them fell deail before the conflict was decided. Captain iVugnr, after the tight, found it necessary to return toward Gold Beach. Captain Smith set out from Fort Lane al)out this time with eighty men — fifty dragoons and thirty infantrymen. All went on foot, and marclied down Rogue River, up Slate Creek to Hays' farm, from thence to D('er Creek anil thence down Illinois River to the Rogue, and encamped a few miles further down that stream, having come to their destination. Negotiations had been in progress for a few days, thanks to the exertions of Superintendent Palmer, and it was hoped that an agreement would be reached with the Coast Indians, who were now much scattered. Enos, with quite a nundjer of his followers, had joined the up-river bands, who were lying on the river above the Big Bend. Others had gone to Port Orford and placed themselves under the protection of the military. On the twenty-seventh of March a party of i-egulars were fired upon from the brush while proceeding down the banks of the Rogue, whereupon they charged their assailants and killed eight or ten, with a loss to themselves of two wounded. On April 1st, Captain Creighton, with a company of citizens, attacked an Indian village near the mouth of the Co- quille River, killing nine men, wounding eleven and taking forty squaws and chihlren prisoners. These Indians had been under the care of the Government authorities at Port Orford until a few days before the light, and hud left that place because some meddlesome 442 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. whites had represented to them that it was the soldiers' intention to kill them. A party of volunteers intercepted several canoe loads of Indians near the mouth of Rogue River and killed eleven males and one squaw ; one male and two squaws only escaped. On the twenty-ninth of April a party of sixty regulars, con- voying a pack-train, were attacked near Chetco by the remnant of the band of savages of that name, supposed to number about sixty, but probably less, and two or three soldiers were killed or wounded. The battle ended by the defeat of the natives, who lost six braves killed, and several wounded. In the month of April three volunteer companies opei'ated on the coast, and did much service in spite of their being badly armed and equipped. These were the Gold Beach Guards, the Coquille Guards and the Port Orford Minute Men. Besides tne regulars who were now hemming in the savages and cutting them off from all avenues of escape from the mountain fastnesses in which they had been so secure, the volunteers played an important part. Fort Lamerick had been built at Big Meadows by Major Bruce, who occupied it with a force of two hundred men, and was later reinforced by the entire body of volunteers. General Lamerick being present and in command. Hemmed in on all sides, without resources and with no hope of assistance, the liostiles began to feel their inability to cope with the forces now operating against them. On the twenty- first and twenty-second of May, Superintendent Palmer and Colonel Buchanan held a conference with the Indians. This is officially known as the " Council of Oak Flat," the locality being on the right bank of the Illinois River, some three miles above its mouth. Nearly all the regular troops were present, amountinsf to about two hundred. Almost all the liostiles were present, and most of them agreed to surrender on a certain day. Not so, however, with Chief John. This undaunted chieftain said to Colonel Buchanan : " You are a great chief ; so am I a great ciiief ; this is my country ; I was in it when these ti'ees were very little, not higher than my head. My heart is sick fighting the whites, but I want to live in my country, I will not go out of my country. I will, if the whites are willing, go back to the Deer Creek country and live as I used to do among the whites ; they cau CLOSING SCENES OF THE WAR ON ROGUE RIVER. 443 visit my camp and I will visit theirs ; but I will not lay clown my arms and go to the reserve. I will tight. Good bye." Tilt result of thi^ negotiations Wius the agreement of a great many Indians, notably the Coast bands, to give up their arms. On or bi'f*)re the twenty-sixth of May they were to assemble at the Big Meadows, several miles from the Big Meadows occuj)ied by the volunteers, and be escorted thence to Port Oi-ford. Ord's com- pany had been sent to Port Orford to escort a ]>rovision train to the command at Oak Flat. Reynolds' company was sent out to meet the same train, as its safety was very imp )rtant. On the twenty-fourth Captain Smith left Oak Flat with his eighty dra- goons anil infantrymen to proceed to Big Meadows and perform escort duty when the Indians surrendered. He encamped on the north side of the river, near the place fixed upon for the surrender. On the twenty-fifth the chief in command moved down the Illinois, and leaving Jones' company at its mouth, went across the Rogue with Augur's company, and set aliout opening a trail for the passage of the surrendei-ed Indians with their guard, who were expected the next day. On the evening of May twenty-sixth Colonel Buchanan was on the north side of the river, tome few miles from the mouth of the Illinois ; Captain Ord was about ten miles west of Oak Flat, with the train ; Jones was at the month of the Illinois ; Reynolds about ten miles below that point, on the Port Orford trail ; Smith at Big Meadows ; anil the main body of the Indians were on the bank of the Rogue, about five miles above Smith. The twenty-sixth passed and no Indians came in, but Smith was informed that they were delayed by slippery roads, and would be in sometime the next day. During the evening of the same day, Geoi'ge, a well-known chief, caused it to Ijecome known to Captain Smith that an attai'k was meditated on his camp. He instantly set about moving his command to a nmch more secure position between two small creeks entering the main stream from the noi'thwest. He occupied an oblong elevation some two hundred and fifty yards in lengtii, and about twenty in width. Between this mound and the I'iver is a narrow liottom called " Big Meadows," but which was not the same locality designated by the volunteers as "Big Meadows," and whereon stood Fort Lamerick. The latter locality is several miles further up the river, and further removed from the stream. The top of the elevation on which Captain 444 HISTORY OF WILLAJrETTB VALLET. Smith was uovv eiicamped foi'med a plateau of size sufficient for one company to encamp upon, and was of slight elevation. Directly to the north is another elevation of equal height and within rifle range of the first. Early in the morning of the twenty-seventh the savages came in from all directions and soon the north mound was covered with them. A l)ody of forty warriors attempted to enter camp, hut wei-e halted on the spot and told to lay down their arms at a certain place. There being a howitzer planted so sis to rake that ap[)roach, the Indians felt it 'best to retire. At ten o'clock in the foi'enoon the Indians made a sudden rush from l)oth sides ; but they were re[)ulsed by the howitzer and infantry. John developed all the tactics and strategy of a consummate general in his nuinage- ment of the battle. His method of attack was by means of small- ;irm lire at long range, charges by the larger bodies of V)raves, and unexpected attacks l)y smaller mnnbers. who sought to gain the mound by scaling the steeper i)oi-tions where the guard was weak. Only thirty of Smith's men had arms adapted to long range shoot- ing, the musketoon of the dragoons being useless except at close quarters. John's men, on the contrary, possessed excellent pieces and shot effectively from long distances. At nifjht the Indians drew off and encamped. Smith occu|>ied his men in constructing rifle pits and building with his camp ecpiipat: tempoi'ary defences, and in procuring water from the river for his thii'sty troops. On the following morning the Indians again opened tire and continued the battle. Old John put forth all his efforts to seizes victory, as there was every chance that reinforcements for Smiih would soon arrive ; but in spite of his generalship and personal bravery the assaults were successfully repulsed. About four o'clock in the afternoon the Indians formed in two bodies with tlu^ intention of attacking both flanks simultaneously. Just at th(> critical moment of their attack. Captain Augur's company was seen advancing. In conjunction with these Smith charged and dispersed the enemy, John and all the rest escaping into the woods. Suiith's loss was twenty-nine in killed and woimded, the most of whom were hit by bullets from the north mound. The loss of the Indians is unknown. To prevent any like attempts for the future, Buchanan concentrated his forces at the Big Meadows on the thirtieth of May, and re- mained there until the greater part of the Indians had surrendered. 0L08INO 8CKNES OF THE WAR ON ROGTTE RITER. 445 While Captain Smith was thus contending with John, the vol- unteers, some miles up the river, were fighting Limjiy and George. Major Latshaw left Fort Lamerick on the twenty-seventh with two hundred and thirteen men, and marched twelve mih's down the river, and the next day skirmished with the Indians of some rancherias still lower down, killing some and taking fifteen prison- ers. On the twenty-ninth, the day following John's defeat by Cap- tain Smith, more skirmishing was done, and II. C. Houston, Ser- geant in Keith's company, was hadly wounded. On the following day fighting took [)lace on the south side of tlu' river betw(!en a party of voliuiteers and some Indians, and Private Cooly, of Wal- lan's company, was wounded in the thigh and hand. On the thirty- first Major Latshaw, with one hundred and fifty men, moved to Buchanan's headt|uai'tcrs, at Big Meadows. They found here that Limpy and George had surrendered, with their bands, on May twenty-ninth, the day following their fight with the volunteers. On the fifth of June General Lamerick moved down the rivei' and en- camped at Big Btud, where the regulai-s were lying. The next day a combined movement was made down the river by three com- panies of regulars an<l Captain Bledsoe's company of volunteers, and an Indian encampment was destroyed, some twenty or more natives being killed or drowned in endeavoring to escape. Two volunteers were wounded. The main bwly of the Indians were en- camped on the river about fifteen miles below Big Bend, but their cabins were found deserted when the attacking party arrived. The remaining acts of the citizen soldiery can be briefly told. Major Bruce headed an expe<lition down tlie coast to the country of the Chetco and Pistol Ri\er bands, and killed three males and took fifty prisoners. On June twenty-sec<md Maj()r Latshaw, with Keith, Noland and Blakely's companies, marched from the mouth of the river via Fort Lamerick to Camas Pi-airie and Deer Creek, and the troo})s going to Eugene City were there disbanded. General Lam- erick, with Barnes" company, proceeded to Port Orford with orders for this organizatiim to be mustered out on July first. Captain Bledsoe, with his men, remained in service for a short time subse- quently. On the twentieth of June Chief John sent five of his braves to Buchanan's head -quarters to announce that theii* leader would sur- 446 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. render on the same terms as had Limpy, George nnd other chiefs, but lie wished the wliites to guarantee safety to Enos, who was an object of particuhxr aversion to the vohuiteers. Previously, the chief had refused all overtures of peace, saying that war suited him, and that in s|)ite of the desertion of all the other Indians he would remain in his l)eloved country and fight. By the first of July all the known hostiles had surrendered save a few about Pistol liiver, and John's own band. Sated with une(jual combats, John surren- dered to the regular army, an eseort of one hundre(l and ten soldiers being sent out to accompany him and his little Itand of thirty-five to Port Orford. The objects of the war were now accomplished. The last band of hostile Indians had surren«lered. On the temjxtrary reservation at Port Orford were gathered about - ■ thousand three hundred Indians of various tribes, and including all the surviving members of the bands which had begun and carried on the war. The Coast Reservation was fixed ujtou as their future abode — a tract seventy miles loug, lying upon the coast of Oregou and extending from Cape Perpetua to Cape Lookout, and from the Pacific Ocean to the western water-shed of the Willamette. liy the first of kSe[)tember, 1856, two thousand and seven hundred Indians had been removed there. Enos, too, was there for a time, but his restless liabits got him into difficulties, ami he made illicit expeditions to various parts of the State, and beiug <letected therein was denounced by certain nervous people as a fire-brand who was seekiii.: to again spread the flames of war. There is a tradition in Curry county that Enos was hanged ui)on Battle Rock at Port Oi'f<»rd; but the Indian then executed was one of four C«Hpiille Indians hanged for the murder of Venable and Burton. The fate of Enos is unknown. CHAPTER XXVI. THE ATTACK ON THE CASCADES. Colonel Wright Afsumen Command of the Rcfjidars — His lyintrudiona from General Wool — lie Starts for the Wolht Walla Coantri/ with a Stronif Force— Fears of an Attack on the Cascaths — The Atiack is Matle on, the Ttci nty-Si.eth of March, ISuG — Details if the Affair — Colonel Wriyht Conies to the Rescue from The Dalles, and Lieuten- ant Sh(r/(lan frotn Vancouver — Indians Captured and Ilamjed — List of Jyilled and Wounded — Intelliijence of the Attack Creates Great Kxciteuwnt in Portland and up the Valley — Two Vidunteer Companies go to the Rescue — Panicy Rum -rs Distract the Peopile — All Quiet on the Sandy. WHILE the oomniand of Colonel Cornelius was hunting for Indians along the Snake and Columbia rivers, the people living in fancied security in the valley experienced the di'ead alarms of war. VV^hen the i)th Infantry arrived the entire force of regidars wa.s placed under the conunand »»f Colonel George Wright. He received general instructions from his ^^nperior, who remained in San Francisco, to occupy winter (juarters until a successful move- ment could be made in the spring, and then to establish a military station in the Walla Walla country, not for the purpose of making war upon the Indians, unless compelled so to do by their own con- duct, but for the protection of the Indians in their rights from un- lawful intrusion or conduct of white men, and to insure the safety of all such as might lawfully reside in the Indian country. This action was taken in view of the fact that the treaties had not yet been ratified by the Senate and were not in force, and consequently the rights of the Indians were more liable to be Infringed than those of the whites. lie wjis to establish and maintain peace. In pur- suance of this policy he moved a strong force to The Dalles, and set 448 niSTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLET. out for the Walla Walla country on the twenty-sixth of March. At that time the Oregon volunteers were campaigning about the mouth of Snake River, and all was <iuiet below them. Previt)us to this the po-^sibility of an attack upon the Cascades Settlement by the Klickitats, had been antieipatiHl. On the fifth of Mareh the steamer lf'as,o\VM Hred upon by Indians while opposite the mouth of Hood River. The day before they had burned the residence of E. S. Joslyn, on the Washington side, and the Wasco had on board Lieutenant Davidson and forty men on their way to the scene of the ti'oubU', when sht^ was tired upt)n. She reliu'ned to the south side of the stream. Soon the Mary came down the river with Major Ilallcr and lifty men, and a lamiing was made, but no Intlians could Ic fouiitl. From this and other indications the peo- ple living at the Cascades feared they might be attacked, and nuide preparations to take refuge in time of danger in the block-house which hail Ix'cn erected. TIkt,' was at that time a railr(»ad under construction from the Lower to the Tpper Cascades, on the Wash- ington side, t(t l)e used as a freight and passenger j)<»riage bt'tween the Lower and L'pper Columbia, and (piite a foi'ce of workmen was employed. Tht! block-house was at the Middle Cascades, while the majority of the workmen were at the upp.^r landing, a store on the river bank serving as hea(l«[uarters at the latter point. The folk)wing very accurate account of thi' attack was written by L. W. Coe a few days afterwards, addre^ised to Putnam Bradford, wh(\ with his brother, Daniel F., was constructing the railroad, which was simpV a wooden tramway: — On WedtU'Hday, March 'US. nt al>oiU 8:30 a. m., after tht' men liad gone to tlieir work on the two lirid^et* of the new railway, mostly on the hridge near KuhIi's houHe, the YakhnaH eiune down on IIS. There was a line of them from Mill Creek above uh to the liijjr point at the liead of tlie fails, firing »lnuiltaneousIy on the men ; and tlie flrst notice we liad of tlum was the l)nlletH and the crack of tlieir guns. Of our men, at tlio tlnst fire, one wax kille<l and several wounded. I will give y«)u a liHt liereinafter. Our mtn on Heeing tlie IndijiiiH, all ran for our store through a shower of liullets, excej)t three who started down streiim for tlie middle Idock- house, distant one and a liidf miles. Hush and his family also ran into our store, leaving his own houHe vacant. The Watkins family cnme to the store after a Dutch boy, wlio was lame from a cut in tlie foot,— had l)een shot in tlieir liousc. Watkins, Finlay and Baily were at work on the new wareliouse on the island, around which the water wa« now high enough to run about three feet deep under the l)riilges. There was grand confusion in tlie store at first; and JSinclalr. of Walla Walla, go- ing to the railroad door to look out, was shot from the hank above the store and in- stantly killed. Some uf ue then oommeQced getting the guns and riilea, which r:.^^ '-<\^ At ith HLOCK HorSK AT THE CASCADKS.— Ske I'a(M8 UH, 4<">2. THE ATT4CK OK THE CASCADES. 449 were ready loaded, from behind the counter. Fortunately, about an hour before, there had been left with us for trunsportutiou below, nino United .StateH (<overn- raent rifles witli eartridj^e boxes arul ammunition. Tliese saved us. As the upper story of the house was abandoned, Sniitli, the cook, having come l)elow, ami as the stairway was outside wiiere wedarenotj^o, tiie stovepipe wa^^ hauled down, the hole enlarged with axes, and a party of men frawled up, and the ujjper part i>f the house was Hoon secured. We were snrpriseil tluit the Indians hud not rushed iuto the upper ilory, as there was nothing or nobotly to prevent them. Our men soon gnt some shots at the Indians on the liank above us. I saw Bush shoot an Indian, tiie first one killed, ho was drawiu',; a l>ead on Mrs. Wiitkhis as she was running for our store. H> dropped instantly. Alexander ami oliiers mounted into the gable under the roof, aiui from lliere was done niost of our tiring, it being tiu" best place of ol)servatlon. In tlie meantime, we were barricading in the store, making port-iioles and firing when op|»orluiiity presented. Hut the In- dians were soon very cautious aboLit exposing lhemselvi-». I took churKe of llie store, Dan Bradford of tiie second Hoor, and Alexander of the garret and roof. The steamer M<iri/ was lying in tiie mouth of Mill Cnek, hu<1 the wind was blowing hard down stream. VViieti we saw Indians running toward lnr and iieard the shots, we supposed she would be taktMi ; and as she lay just out of our sight, ami we saw smoke rising from lier, concluded siie was burning, but what was our glad surprise after a while to see her put out and run across the river. I will give an account of the attack on her hereinafter. The Indians now returiu-d in force to us, and we gave every one a shot who showed itimself. Tliey were nearly naked, jjalnted red. and had guns and bows and arrows. After a wlule Finlay <'ame creeping arouiul t lie lower point of the Island toward our house. We halloed to him to lie down Itehiiul a roi'k, aiul he did so. He called that he could not get to the store as the bank ai)ove us was cov- ered wili» Indians. He saw Watkln's bouse burn while there. The Indians tlrst took out all they wanted- bliinkets, <lothes, guns, etc. By this tiiiu- tiie Imiians liad crossed in canoes to the i-laiid, and we saw them coming, as we supposed, alter I'Inliiy. We then saw Watkinsand Haili y r,iniiiny: around the river side towartis the place where Khilay was, and llu' fiidi nis in lull i-liasenfter them. .V" our own nu'ti came around the point in full \ lew, Haiiey was -hot t>, rough tlie arm and leg. He continued on, and, pliinning into the river, swam to the front of our store and came in safely, excejit for his wounds. He narrowly eseaned going over the falls. Klnlay also swam across and i;'! in unlianiird, which was woiidiTMil, as there wim» a shower of Inillets around ibiiii. Watkins next came niniiing :i..)und the point, and we called to him to lie down behind a rock, but before he could do so he was shot in the wrist, tlie ball going up the arm ami (ail aliove tin elbow. iU- dropped behind a rock jiisl us the piirsiiing Indians came rollowlm; around the point, liut we gave Ibern so hot arecepii'>n from our house tliat they ba(ke(I out and Icit jioor Watkins where he lay, VV«' cailetl to Watkins to lie still and we would gel him oil'; luit we were not aide to do so until after the arrival from Tlie D.illcs of the steamer ,l/'/'V/ with tr<K»ps— two days and nights afterwards. During tliis time W.itkiiis fainted -ever.il times from wiakness and exposure, Ihi' weather lieiiig very cold, and he was stripped down to his under- clothes for swimming. When he fainted he would roll down the sti'cp bank into the river, and the ice-cold water rcviviinr liliii, he would crawl hack under tire to his retreat iK-hind the rock. Meiintinie, his wife and children were in the store, in full view :ind moaning pilcously at his terrible situation. He dietl from txliaus- lion two (iavK alter he was rescued. The Indians were now pitching into us "rl^ht smart." They tried to hum us out; threw rucks uad tlrebrauds, hot Jruus, pitch wood — •verylbiug uu to the roof 460 UISTOUY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. that would l>ura. But you will recollect that for a ^^ilort distance back the bank iucliiifd toward tho iiouse, and we could nee and !<ho»)t tlie Indiann who appeared there. So they hud to throw I'roni such a distance that the larjrent rocks and huij- dle« of tire ditl not quite reach uh; and what did, gcin'raliy roiled off the roof. iSonietiniert the roof j?ot on ttre, nn<i we cut it out, or with cups <if l)rine drawn from pork barrilH, put it out, or with long wlicks shoved oil' the lire halls. Phe kitchen roof troiihlcd UN the most. IIuw they did pepper us with rocks; sonic of the big ones would shake the house all over. There were now forty men. women and children in tin- house — four icoincn and eigiiteen men that could tiuht and eighteen wounded men and (children. The steamer H'a.^co was on the Ore^jon side of the river. We saw her ^team up and leave for 'I'lie Dalles. iShortly sifter, the stcunu'r Mnn/ also left. .She had to take Atwell's fence rails for wimkI. So patwed the day, during wliich the Indians luid burned lnn;an's two liouses. your saw-mill and houses, and the lun>her yards at till' mouth of Mill (.'reek. At dayli){lit they set lire to your new wareliouse on the island, making; it as li);lit as di<y around us. I suppose lliey rcseiNcil thiH hi'ilding for ni(;ht that we mit;ht not ^et Watkins oil. They did not attack us at nifilit, hut the second morning commenced a» lively as ever. We hud no water, hut did have about two dozen ale and a I'ew bottles of whisky. Tlicse j-ave out dnring the day. During the nighl, a Spokane Indian wlio was traveling with Siiieluir, and was in the store with us, voluntetred to get a |iail of water Ironi the river. 1 t'onsenled, and he stripped himself naked, jumped out and down the Liank, and was liack in no time. By this time we liMiked for the steamer from The Dalles, and were greatly tlisapiM»inted at her non-arrival. We weatliered it out <lnring the day, every nuin keeping ills post, ariil never relaxing in vigilance. Kvery' moving oliject, shallow, or siwjiici.'iiH liusli on the hill rectivi'd a sliot. The Indians must liave tliought the house a bomltshell, 'l\i our ceaseless vigilance I ascriiie our safety. Night came again : we saw Slieppard's house burn ; Bush's house near by wuh also tired, Hiid kept us in light until about four a. .m., wlieii darkness returning, I sent ttie Spokane Indian for water from the r' -r, and lie filled two barrels, lie went to and fro like lightning. We also sllppe • ;»oor JiiiueH Sin<!lair's body down the slide outside, us tile corjise was (|uile offensive. I'he two steamers now having exceeded the length of time we gave them in which to return lioni The Dalles, we made up oi!r minds for a long siege and until relief came from below. We could not account for it, luil supposeil the niiitli rtgi- nient liad left Tlie Dalles for Walla Walla, and had proceeded too far to return. The third moiiiing dawned, and lo! (he ,Vf (/■.(/ ami the ir'Mco, blue with soldierH, and tow ing a fhit-bout witli <lrago'in horses, hove in in sight: "irfi a hallo <(h we yaw. As the steamer landed the Indians fired tv/enly or thirty shots into them, hut we could not ascertain with any efl'ecf. The soldiers as they got ashore could i.ot tie restrained, and jilunged into the woods in every direction, while the liowltzern sent grajie after the retiealing redskins. The soldiers were soon at our store, and we, I tliink I moy any, exjiericneed (|uile a fe»'ling of relief on opening our dooix. During this time we hail not heard from lielow. A company of dragiMins under ("olonel Steptoe went on <lown Dan went with them. The Itlock-liouse at the Miildle Cascades still luld out. Allen's house was biinnd niid e\ery otiierone be- low. (Jeorge W, Johnson's, S. M. Hamilton's V. A. Chenoweth's, the wharf bout at Caseudes— all gone up. Next in order conies the attack on the .Va/7/. She lay in Mill Creek, no fires, and wind hard ashore. Jim 'I'hompson, John Woodani, and Jim Herman were just going up to tlie boat from <>ur store, and iiad nearly readied her us they were fired upon. Ileinian asked if tliey had any gunn. No. He went on up (<> Inmun's liuuse, the rest Httiyiug to help get the 8teainer out. THE ATTACK ON THE CASCADES. 451 Capt. Dan Baughman and Thompson were ashore on the upper side of the creek hauling on hnes, wlien tlie flrinj? from tlie Indians bfcame so hot that they run for the woods, |)a.st Iiunan's housi-. The fireman, .lames Lindsay, was shot tlirough the shoulder. EngineLT BudtminstL-r shot an Indian witli liis revolver on the ganit-plank, and little Johnny Chance wont climliing up on tiie hurricane deck, with an old dragoon pistol, killed his Indian ; hut h" was shot tlnouiih t!ie leg in doing so. Dick Turpin, half crazy, proi)al>ly, taking the only gun <ii the steam- hoat, Jumped into a flat Itoat lying alon;rside. was shot, and Jumped overhoard and was drowned. Fires were soon startetl under the lioiler and steuui was riii-<ing. About this time, Jesse Kemjiton, sliot while driviuK an ox team from the saw-mill, got on hoard; also a half-hncil nanu'<l "Bourlion," who was shot throuy:li tlie luxly. After sufHcient steam to move was raised, Hardin Ciienowetli ran up into the pilot- lu)use, and, lying on the floor, ttirneil the wheel as he wius directed from the lower deck. It is ahnost needless to say that the pilot-house was a target for the In<iians. After the steamer was fairly hacked out and turned around, hedhl toot that whistle at them good. T<iot ! toot I toot I it was nuisie in our ears. The steamer pielced up Herman on the hank ahove. Inman's family, Sheppard, and Vainlerpool all got across the river in skifl's, and hoarding the Mori/, went to the Dalles. Coloiu'l (ieorge Wriyht and the ninth regiment, Second Dragoons, and Third Artillery, had started f<u' Walla Walla, and were out live miles, camped. Tliey re- ceived lU'Ws of tlu> attack at eleven I". At., and hy daylight were liai'k at Tlie Dalles. Starting (hiwn, they ojily reached Wind Mountain that night, as tlie Man/'n lioiler was in had onler, hecause of a new Hrenutn the day before. They reached us the next morning at six o'clock. Now for t)elow. ( ieoriic .Fohnson wait ahont to get a boat's crew of Indians, when Indian Jack came running to him, saying tiie Yakimas had attacked the block- house. He di<l not believe it, although he heard the cannon. He went up to the In- dian village on the sarul-bar toget his crew; saw sonu' of the Cascaiie Indians, wlio said they thought the Yakimas had ciime, aiul (ieorue now hearluu the muskets, ran for home. K. W. Haugliman was with him. Bill Murphy had lelt the block- house early for the Indian camp, arul had nearly r<'t'i:ned before he saw the Indi- ans or wxs shot at. He returned, two others wilii him, and ran for (ieorge Jfihn- son's, al>out thirty Indians in chasi-. After reaching Johnson's, Murphy rontlnued on and gave Hamilton i,n(i all below warning, and llie families cml>ai kid in small boats for Vancouver. The men would have barricaded in tlie wharf-boat but for want of ammunition. There was coiisidiralile government freight in th<' wliarf- boat. They stayrd about the wharf-boat and scliooner nearly all day, and until the Indians commenced tiring npnti tiu'in from the zim- house on the bank. They then shoved out. Tommy I'rice was shot tliroujih the leg in getting- the boat.s into the stream. Floating down tlu'y 'net the steamer /ir//c with I'iiil Sheridan and forty men, sent u\\ on report of an express carried down hy Indian Simpson in the morning. (Jeorgeand those with him went on i)oard the steamer and volunteered to serve umler Sheridan, wlio lauded at ({tMirLre's place and found everything burm>d. The st<>amer returned, ami the Indians pitcin <l into Sheriilati, Inught liim all day, and drove him with forty men ami ten volunteers to below Handl- t^m's, notwithstanding he had asuudi cannon one soldier killed. The steamer /;'//»■ returned tite next day ithird of the attack ) and brought am- munition for the block-house. , our partner, liishop, who was in I'ortlamI, came up on her. Hteamor Ftm/ititn, with volunteers from i'firtland, cntrie .'it the ranie time. The volunteers remaiiu'd at the I, owi'r Cascades. SluMlilau took his com- mii'l.and with a bateaux loaded with ammunition, erossetl to Itradford's Island on the Oregon side, where they foumi most of tlie Cascade Indians, tiny having been advised by Cu-urge Jobusuu tu gu ou there the lltbt da) of the attack, i liey 462 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. wen; crtwslnjf and rwroHHinjr all thf time, ami Hherldaii iiinde them prlsonera. He |)reK«i'(l a Ixtut's crew, and aw they towed up to the head of the Inland nnd ahove, Haw irreat nuniherw of IndianH on the Wnslilnpton Territory side and opposite them. Slieridaii expe'led tliein locrosMand tl>rJit liim.nnd between tliein and tlie frienrlly(?) Indiiins in lii- eliarire. tliouirht lie lind his* hands full. .lust then Sheridan discovered Steptoe and his drauoon infantry and volunteers |'(l^nin^' down from tlii' Miii'ji. siirprisirifj; completely the IndianH, who were cooking heef and watchine SluTidan aerons tlie rivt-r. Hut on the sound of the l)Uirle tlio Indians tle<l like deer to Ihc woods, with the loss of only one killed— "old .loanani.'' I?ui lor llic linirle tliey ouuht t" have captured tifty. 'rheiiiinli retrimi'Ut arc luiildintr a lilock-house un the hill ahove us, also at ( tcorL'e li)linson's, Kiitl will hereafter kce)» a stromr •orcc here. Lieutciiant HIsHell and twelve men who wer< -<tHtione<I at the I';. per Cascades, were ordered away, and left for The Dalles ivi'o days In fore the attack was ma<le upon U"'. '{'he Iniliiins Sheridan took on the islanti were closely iruardetl Old C'henowith ichitf) was lirouyht up before Colonel Wrijrht. tried. a'i<l sentenced to he hun>r. The Cascade Indians, lielmr under treaty, were adjudi/ed iruihy of treason in tlirht- inR. Chenowi'h died iraine; was hun^r on the upper side of Mill Creek. I acted aa Interpreter. He otVercd ten liorset), two sipiaWH, and a little •^oiiiethinir to evc-y "lyi'c." for his life ; said he was afraid of the jrrave in the uiound. and lieLr>re<l to he put into an Indian tlead hotisc He jrave n terrltle warwhinip while the rojie was iH'in;.' put around his neck. I tliouirht he expeeteil the Indians to conu> and i*: '(le him. Tlie rope did mil wurk well, ami whib- hanu'invr I;,' nnittered, " W<ih' nikn kiniHH Icitftii im iiinliKiai ;^' i I'm not afraid to die. I Me was then shot. I was plad to see he old devil killed, beintr satlsfleil that he was at tlie bottom of all troid)le. Hut I can not detail at too I'rent lenirth. The ne\t day Tef-onieoc and Cap. Jo were humr. Cap. .To said all the Cascad* Indians were in flic tli^bt. The next day Tsy, Sim Lasselas, and Kour-flnjrered .lolinuy wcr<' huuir. The next day Chennwitli .Mm, Tumalth, and Old Sk<'in were buntr, and K.-uicwuke sentenced, but reprieved on Ihescaftbld. IS' im- in all were exe- cuted. Manaha Is a prisoner at Vancouver ami decorated wilh l>all and chain. Tlie rest of the Cascade Indians are on your island, and will In- shot if seen ofl' of it. Such arc Coliiiicl Wriirhl's onlers How, \Vati(|Uin. I'dcr. .Mabooka .lohn, Kotyue^ and mavbe more of them. Isiive trone with, the Yaklmas. I foruot to I 'ntion that your house at the L«>wer Cascaties. also llisbop's, wa« burned : also t.' account for ('a|it. Dan iiituifbman and .Jim. Thomjisdi), They put liack into the mountains, muiI at nijrht came down to the river at Vandcr|)ool's place, fished up un old lM>al ai;d ero«s«><l to tlie Oregon side. They coiu'«'alcd tliem- selves in the rocks on the river bank opfMmlle, wHtp thoy eould watch us ; jind at Tilcrht went back intr> the >iiountains to sleep They c4inH' in safel>' after the troops arrived. Wp do not know how many Indians there were. They aiiack^d Ittc block-house, our place, and drove Sheridan all at the same time. We think there was not less than two or three hnn<lre<l. When the attack was made on us three of ot^r e4»rpei>- ters ran for the ndildle block-house, overtooK the ears at the salmon house, cut tho mules loo^c. and. \vi(h (be car drivers, all kcpi on. They a"re not ti.ed i,» until tln'y irot to the sprint! on the railroad. Iml from Iberi' liicy r ii the ^a'.mtlcl of Ind- icts and arj-owslothe fort. Little Jake was killed in the run. Several were wounded. I append a lis! of killed and wounded. Hut this is a lon^ letter; but knowiuK.Vou w(udd be anxious tt) bear all the particulars. I have endeavored to ^ive you a tru.> description. Dan is writln^r to others at home, and has read tliis letter. We have Ifot to work a^rain builditiK and trans])ortiuK' ; are K<>iiiK '<> build a saw-ndll as soon liM we can We liad but few pour s|itH!iluc'Us ot men here during tbi tlttht. Kt'iierully THK ATTACK ON THE OASCADEK. 4r)8 all behaving well. 'I'li' ii' wu.s, however, one notable exception -a i)er8on who ar- rlveii at the store but a It'W iiiiiiuteH In't'ore the fight eouiniciK^ed, aud wlioHe naiiif i will yivf \nii ill piTsim. Am a little afralil to go to Hoc 1\ C'reeli to ll.sli, in laut have iiail no tinii' hi lar. Don't tliink I shall havo much tiahing thiaMununer. Wish you wtTf Imi-k. Kn.M;ii~(>e<)i-;^e (JrlwwoM, B. W. Brown ami wife, Itilled at thesaw-inill, bodien fouml s(ri()jn'.l iialii<l in Mill (loek; Jinuny VVatliiiiH, driving team at mill; Henry Hanar, shot in \Vutkin»* house, body burned; Jake Kyle. (Jorman boy; Jacob NVIiite, sawyer at mill ; I'onrbon, htilt'-breed, died on the Mary going to The Dalles; Jaiiu'H , Sinclair, of the flud^on'- I'ay Company, W'lilla Walla; Diek 'I'urpiii, i-olored eook on the steamer Mini/: .Norman Palmer, driving teani at mill ; (.'alderwixul. working at i.iill ; three United .Stati's soldiers, mime.s unknown; (Uiorge VVatkina, lived four days; Jiicob Uousli, carpenter, lived six days. \VorNi)i;i>. — KlftclKM- .Mmpliy, arm ; J. Lindsey, shoulder; Tommy I'riee, thigh ; .MoHiil, railroail, hainl ; .M. Bailey, leg and arm ; two soldiers, I'nited .states army ; I'. tSnooks, Itoy, le^ ; Jesse Kemplon, shoubhT; M. Kyle, (ierman ; .lolmny Chance, leg; J. Algiii, slightly. Tlu' I'DiidiU't of CoK)nvl Wright in tlii'^ tiffiiir was liiglily pnii.sed l)y the pri'.'^.si and pcoj)!*'. Although in canni, on hiw way to \\ jilhi Walhi, when the coiiriir lnoiight him ut'wx of tht' attat-k just be- fort' nii(hiight, he at one" rou.-ii'd hi.s nifii and innrcht'd the wholf ctoninmnd, iiifantr\, artilli'iy and dragoons hack to Thi' Ualh'.'?, loaded all of them ht> could possil.ly i-rowd u|»)n the sitt'iinK'r.» and barge, and ha.stent'd to the ro.sfUe Th<'y u<'ii dclayetl by the con- dition of tlie boilers, Imt \vli( n they linally reached the scene of action Colonel Wright and Colonel Ste[itoe led the tnajps in per- son in a charge Iteiore wliit^h the enemy tied li ie nheep. No less gjillant was the conduct of liit'Utenaiii I'hil S!i«?ridan. l he new.s reached Naiicouver late in the evening of the attack, and at tivt' next morning he started up the ri\er with fort} dragoons and a few volunteers. His coinluct while tlu're has been related. Tlie intelligence reached Portland late on tlii' nighl of the twenty-si.vth, and rreated gicii cxciti'inent. A [uiblic nieetbig wa« called, and a compan\ of volunteers orijani/e<| the next d/iv. I he\ were refused the use of 'reriiioci.al arms by those who had them in ciiarge, and having pick d up twenty pieces of vui'ioiis dem-ripi- tions, started earl\ in the iiioining of the twenty-eighth, un the steamer /'as/iion. The eumpanv was forty sti'<mg. and was com- manded hy Captain 1-. .1. Powell and Lieutenant A. M. v*>t»'\vart. PiHH-uring arms ami ammunition at X'ancouver, .iftcr nnicit delay, they arrived at the Lower Cascades too late to be of any assislance to Lieut<'naut Sheridan, and but a short time before the ijidians 454 HISTORY OF WILLASrETTE VALLEY. were scattoi-ed l)y Colonel Wright. Later, a ooiiipany of sixty- eiixlit men, eoininanded by Ca[)tain iS. Coffin and Lieutenants R. N. McLaren and J. M. Breck, went up on the .steamer Jennie Clark, ami, finding everything (piiet, returned to the city. A second ])ul»li(' niei'tiiig was lield in Poitluiid on the twenty-eighth. \\\ times of excitement there are always to be found plenty of men who seem to find pleasure in intensifying the panic by inconsider- ate language, lugubrious prediction.s and rash conduct. People of thi.s character having conceived the idea that Portland was in danu'ei' of attack, though just why they were never able to explain, called a meeting for the purpose of taking measures to defend the city. 11. W. Davis was appointed tt) the connnand of the forces to bi' raised, aiul two hundred men enrolled their names in response to a VA\\\ for Volunteers. Before the cc»m[»any was fully organized rlie absurdity of the whole proceeding became apparent, and the nuitter was (piietly drojjped. The latest exhibition of an.xi<'ty was tlie departure from Portland, on the fifth of A|iril,of a mounted company of twenty-five rangers, under Capti.in W. iS. Hin-kley and Lieutennnt L. J. Powell, who .'uadi a f.uitless scout in the ilireetion of the Sandy, in seai'ch of Indians who might harbor evil designs uj)on the peace and wt-lfare of the city. Not finding any, they returned, and the [)eople, now relieved of all an.xiety, again abandoned them.selves to "the sweet vicissitudes of^pleasure and repose." ( IIAPTER XX VII. CAMPAIGNS OF COLONELS WUIUHT. KrKPTOE AND SIIAW. AihUt'iiiiml D>'fi'tif>t'H lit thi (^nsradcK — Colonel Wright Inmtilei^ the, YfiJc- iiiia Coiiiitrif -III- Fn'ih to Neffot'iiite lolth Kaiiia-i-ukun, and Ue- turnx to Till l)((lli H -PliiDi* of (ioi'eniiir Stenfii/t — //e Sttuis the ISci'oiid lii'giiiient into tho Wdlla W'ulln Comitry in two Battalions - Vunij)oHitioii of the liiifinient- — Battle of Grand lionde — Battle of Burnt Hirer — liilli'il aud Wound nd -Colonel Shatn Arertf a War with the xW.r Percex -Colouil Sf.<.j''<- nent to Walla Walla to Build a Fort His Proclamation that the Indian Treaties were not yet in Fmce — (roreruor iSferens f; "'te.i the Trihn* to Hold a Coauril at Walla Walla — The Council >!i. I ii friendly one -Lack of Harinnny between Stevrn.t mnl Steptoe — Stevens Attacked hy the Indiann and w RcKcaeil hySfiptoe -A Block-l.oiixe Built and Garrisoned and Troops liffi/rn to The Dalles A'olnml Wright I.caih an Kvpedition to Walla Walla- He hidds a Council anil Ananges a I'eace upon the Grounds of Mutual Forgiveness for the '-Late Cn pleasantness'''' — Got'M'nor Stevens' Treaties and his Gjdnion oj Wright's Treaty - Northern Indians Invade Paget Sound- JC rectum of Fort Willa Walla- Situiitit'o if ajfairs in the fndian Country -Colnnel Step- toe^s Defeat in the J'alnuse Country II it* Disastrous Hi treat South (f Snake Ii'ivce .\ U.coril of Heroism ond Cowardic -Colon l Wright Chastises the I ndians at Medical l^tke -The Sjmkanes, i'ak- iiiias a •III Palonxis Sue for Peace and Surrender I'nconditionally J/osfages Taken and Tuulve Indians Hung The Walla Wallas Tamely Sahmit to the Hanging of Four of their Nuinher. THE |)inj)(»s((l niovriiK'iit into tilt' AN'mH.i Walla fouritrv, so suddenly iiilt-rnipJtMl In {\w attack upon tlie CaM-adt^, wjw abandoned hy (Jolonrl \\'niilit, whost- forws eaunud for a tiuu' at The DuiU's. Two block -houses were built at the CaH<a<les, one at the Upper landing and one at tlie Lower, which »vcrc well gar- riHoned and proviaioned. A large block-house was also built at 456 IIISTORT OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Vancouver, in the rear of tlie barraiks. Having thus fortified those points acainst attack, and having a strong force at The DalKs, Colont'l W liglit movrd north into the Vakinia country, ex- pecting t(» form a junction at the Natchcss I'ass witli Cohniel Casey, whom he had (tnh'red to move with two con)i»anies across the mountains to meet liim. His olijci-t was not to make an attack upon the Indians, Imt, in pursuance of the instructions of General Wool, to meet Kama-i-akun in council jiml agi'ee upon the l)asis of a lasting peace lie moved iioith early in May, and on the eighth met the Indians near the Natchess River. He undertook to negoliate with them, hut failed utterly to accomi)li>h anything. On the ele\ent!i, having ascertained that at lea>>t one thousand wai-riors confronted him, representatives heing present from nearly all the disaifected trihes, he dispatched a courier t() Tiie Dalles for reinfoi-ccmeiits. Three companies at once moved to his aid, liaising his etTective force to tv.;> hundred and iifty men. Thi-re he re- maine(i for several weeks, vainly endeavoring to hold a council with Kama-i-akun. A few Indians \ isited his camp from time to time. mor<' for the ptu'pose of keeping posted on his movements than anything else, but no chiefs came near him. He constructed a fort on the hank of the Natchess, where the sti'eani was two hinidred feet wide ; and the Indians, lia\ ing heen reduced to living upon their horses and what salmon could he caught, moved away. Colonel Wright then returm-d to The Dalles, having accomplished nothing of impoitance, ludess it wa.s to more Hinily settle the In- dians in their previous opinion that the settlers and the trooj)s were distinct pcoph s, and the hitter woidd not aid the former to tight tliR-ni. ?vleHnwhile, the two coniymnies, called t)ut l>y (loverhor (^tirry, had taken station at The Dalles, and (Jovernor Sti'veiis was jire- paring for a camj)aign (tn his own accotuit. He was fearful that if something was not done at once to Inuidtle tlie llosllles, they woidd cx)rruj)t the Nez Peices, Spokanes, (\»lvilles and Cieur d'Alenes, and a most powerful coinhination he formed against the whiteH. Quiet had heen rest(»red on the Soinid, the last sign of war lieing a brief ))attle on the i\es(|uall\ early in Apiil, between Indians and Caj>taii» MaxoiTs company. Consecpu^ntly, (iovenior Stevens began eai'ly in May, while Colonel \N'right was in the Vukima country, to CAMPAIGNS OF V.OLONELR WRIOHT, RTT:PT0E AND SHAW. 467 organize a forrp to accomplish his purpose of making a proper dis- play of power where it would have the de.sii-ed effect. His ideas, plans and iiu venu uts are fully detailed in the following extracts from letters aiUlressed l»y him to the iSecretary of War, at Wash- ington. D. C On the twenty-third of May Ik; wi'ote : — Two liundrfd horHcmeii on the Nutehess, well supiilicd, nioiiiiti-il niid uiulcr a vijjoroim oHlrcr, at tliis jiiiicturc, will, with tlu' oiMTiitlon of tlu? rejjuUir tiMojm, drive liim (till' vni'iny) ncnisH tlu' I'oluinhiii. TIiIm force I iiiii now orpaiii/.iii^ at Canip MoiitKoniery, and it will lie ready iii ten days. In this \ iew the Walla Walla country niUHt he held; eonmiunioation In- estahlished witli the Nez I'eree au.xiliarieH, and the eni-niy restrieteii to the <;ountry north of the Snake, and on the immediate hankH of the Colurnhia, north of the Snake. I am organizing a force of two hnndred men to occupy the Walla Walla. One hundred men are already at The Dalles. They will move with one hundred days' jirovisions, and some to spare for tile Nez I'eree auxiliaries and tlic troops which may he concentrated there from the Yakima country. Tlie Yakima and Walla Walla conntry firmly held, the passes well watched over the Cascades, the main force of the enemy on the Snake and L'pper (.'olumhia, we nuiy then he ahle to disliand the hulk of the remaining volunteers on the Sound. This most favoralde view of the progress ot the war, which can not he developed in a shorter period than four to six weeks, will jirac- tically keep in service all the volunteers for their six months' term of service, and nniy render it necessary to extend the term on the i)art of those oecujiying tlie Wallu Walla. * * Thus, to transler f he war from the settlements on the Sound and the ('olumliia Hiver to the interior, to strike sucli l)lows as o])portunilie8 may oflL-r, an<l to he in readiness to prepare for a vigorous winter campaign, I shall, in ten days, he ready to move over the Natehess with two hundred horsemen and one hundred and tilty pack animals, and to the W'alla Walla witli two hundred horsemen and one hundred tlays' provisions. Under date of June Sth, he says ; — The two exi)editi(»ns rcferreil to, one over tiie Cascade.s into the Yakima country, the other from The Dalles to the Walla Walla, are nearly ready for the movements. Holh exjieditions I deem of vital eonseiiuenee, in view of the present condition of things in the interior. All the information which I have received, goes to satisfy ne.-, that unless the most vigorous action is at once taken, all the trihes from the i'ascades to the Hitterroot will he in the wai', a portion of the Nez Pi;rei's alone excepted. I shall tt)-niorrow pusli to The Dalles, and urge the Wallu Walla expi'dition forward with all )iossil)le dispatch. I trust it will l>e in season. The troops all reached 'I'he Dalles on yesterday, hut it was supjiosed that a portion of the animals whi<h were taken on the emigrant trail from tlie Willamette to I'lie Dalles, will he a day or two hehind. If the troops reach the Walla Walla hefore an overt act has heen committed, 1 am certain tliat the comljination can he hrokeii up, and that the Nez I'erees and the Indians on and in the iieiglihorhood of the Spokaiies will remain friendly. July 7th, the (Governor details additional events as follows : — The force from the Round, under the Immediate command of IJeut. Col. IJ. F. Shaw, moved from Camp Montgomery on Wednesday and Thursday, June 11th and 12th, and crossing the mountains with the loss of only one animal, camped on tb«« WeuasB uu the tweutielb. At that point Lieutenaut-ColoDcl Shaw received 458 niSTORT OF WILLAMKTTK VALLKY. ordorn from me •<> push to the Wulla Walla, unite IiIa foroe with that moving from The DalluH, and take vominitnd of the whole. The force fnun The DalU>M moved from the eamp five miles Inyond the Den ChiiteH Ulver, on Wednesday, June 2'>th, and was expected to reaeh the Walla Walla on the fourth of July. Each column numbered nearly two hundred men. The whole force conKiHts of three hundred and fifty enlisted men, and al>ont one hundred <|uarternui.stcran*t Indian employee. From the Walla Walla, Indian supplies will In- pushed to the Nez Perces and Hpokanes, and an i>scort will accompany them, should the simple presence of a force in the Walhi Walla valley l>e n>>t suftlcicnt to insure tiie safety of the train, protecteil, as it is e.x|VM-ted it will !»♦•. by Indian auxiliaries. Letters have lieen received from Lieut. I'ol. Wm. t'niig, utivnt of the Nez Perces, of the twenty-ninth of May and eighth of June, s|>eakin^ mon> favoralily of the condition of things in the interior. Kama-i-akun, at a<-<>uncil held with the Spokanes on the twentj-- flfth of May, when-in he nrite<l that trilic to join the war. received a ne>;a(ive t() his |)ropositi(Ui. The S|K)kani's, however, h«rl»or the hostile Cayust^s. which has caused nu! to he soM'.cwhat apprehensive of the sinct-rity of their prof4'ssioiis. I was at The Dalles from Saturday, June 14ih, to Monday, Juhe .'iOtli,p'ltin(/lhe exi)edition od'and collecting information in relation to the Indians. At that time the hostile bands were nmch scattere<l. Some three hundred hostilcs were at the head of John Day's River; a larue camp of hostilcs, supp<».«ed to be Walla Wallas under the s(mi of I'eu-i)eu-mox-mox, were at Fort Walla Walla. The ("ay uses were on the Hpokane. The Klickitats and Yakinias were on ibc I'isclioiise lliver, antl probably snuill parties at Priest's Hapiils. The larjte camp reported by Lieutenant-Colonel Craig, in his letter of May -7th, an<t com|M>sc<i of individuals of sev(>ral tribes, in- cluding the Snakes, I have no information that they luive moved from the place where they were when (.'olonel Craig wrote. There were Snakes with the |)arty at the head of .lohn Day's Uiver, and tlie fon-e was increasing. It is proposed to strike the party at the head of John Day's Hiver, liy a force of about one hundred and seventy-five men, consisting of one hundred volunteers of Oregon, under Major Layton, and seventy-five volunteers of Washington, under Captain Ciort". The plan was to move from Well Springs on the thirtieth of June, wldch point Is on the endgrant road, some eiglity-five milcH fnun The Dalles. The force which thi;.-! invjulcd the Walla Walla country was known officially a.s the "Secoml llegiineiit W. T. Aloiuitctl Volun- teers," and was under the command of Colonel B. F. Sluiw. The Lietitenant-C'olonel was William ('rait;, the old mountaineer who was living among the Xez I\-rces, and had organized a conqtany «tf sixty of these friendly Indians to c<»-o|ierate with the vohinteers. They wt're led Uy Sj>«»tt«Ml Kagle. (icorge Blankcnsliip and 11. J. G. Maxou were Majoi"s of the first ami second Kattalions. There were six companies of vohuiteers, aimnuiting t<> a total of three hundred and fifty men, one each raised by II. J. G. Maxon in Clarke County ; by Captain Achilles on Lewis Kiver ; by B. L. Henness in Thurston County, and by Bluford Miller and M. P. Goff in the Willamette Valley. The two Oregon companies, re- ferred to in the Governor's letters, as commanded by Major Lay- CAMPAIG^fS OF COLONELS WniOIIT, STKPTOK AND finAW. 459 nj Hi ton, were those calltMl ont by (iovcrnor Curry, to guard the Colunihia. Immediately after fjoiiiij into camp on Mill Cieek, two miles above the present eity of Walla Walla, one hnndre(| nude packs of Indian supplies were sent with a liirht escort to the friendly Nez Perces, under the charu'e of A. II. l{<»l»i<', as spei-ial a<r<'nt. On the fourteenth of July C'olonel Shaw moved with one hundred and sixty men and ten days' rations, to attack a hand of hostiles who were reported as concenti'atin<; in tin- (Jrand Ifonde X'alley. lie was guiiled throiii^di the Blue Mountains l»y Captain John, a Nez J*eree chief. The following account of his movements is taken from his official rei>ort : — We arrived in tlu' (iraml Uundt' Valley on tlie t-veiiiiiK of tiic Hixleentli, and camped on a l>rancli of tlu- (iraml Uimde Hiver in the tirnl>er, Hendin^ H|iii'H in ati- vance, wlio retiirnctl and reported no (waU sifjn. On tlie morning' tif tlie seNcn- teentli, ItMivin;; .Major l>lani(en.sliip of tlie Central, and Captain .Miller ol' the Soutli- ern haltaliiiiiH, ansisled liy Captain Dehaey, to take np the line nf mareli for the main valley, 1 proceeded ahead to reconnoitre, aeeoinpanicd hy Major .Ma.xon, Mi- chael Marehmean, Captain .lolm, and Dr. ItiirnH. Alter proeeediiiKahout livemilcH we ascended a Unoll in the valley, Iroin which we discovered dii.st ari.HiiiK along the timher of the river. I itnniediately sent .Major .Ma.xon and Captain John forward t<> reconnoitre, and retinned to luirry up the coinniand which was not far distant. Tl)e connnand was instantly fornie<l in onler; Captain Miller's company in ad- vance, supported liy .Ma.xon, Meniicss and Powell's companies; leaving the pack train in ehar^^e of the guard under Lli'utenant (Joodwin, with a di-taclimenl of (ioll's company under liieutcnant Wait ; and liieutcnant William's company in reserve, with orders to follow on after the connnand. The whole command moved on <|uietly in this order, until within half a mile of the Indian village, where we discovered tluit the pack train had moved to the left, down the (Jrand Konde llivcr. At this momunt, a large hody of warriors came forward, singing and wlioopiug, and one of them, waving a white man's scalp on a pole. One of them slgnilled u desire to speak, whereupon 1 sent Captuin John to meet liim and formed the command in Uneof hattle. When Captain John came up to the Indians, they eried'out to one another to shoot him, when he retreated to the connnand, and 1 ordered the four companies to charge. The design of the enemy evidently was to draw us into the lirush along the river, where, from our expoj^ed position, they would have the advantage — they no d ;ul>i, h.ving placeil an amhush there. To avoid this, I charged down the river t« ward the pack train. The warriors then split, part going across the river, ai d pi rf, down toward the pack train. These were .soon overtaken and engaged. The chcTge v-itH vigorous and so well sustained that tliey were l)roken, dispersed and slain Liclore lis. After a shor'. time, I sent Captain Miller to tlie left ami .Major Maxon to the right, the latter to cross the strcum and cut them of!" from a point near which a large hody of warriors liad collected, apparently to light, while I moved forward with the coimnands of Captain Henness and Lieutenant Powell to attack them in front. The Major could not cross the river, and, on our moving forward the enemy tied, after Uriug a few ^aa, part taking to tiie left, and part coDtiauing forward. IMAGE EVALUATrON TEST TARGET (MT-3) ('. ^ - ''<^ ^ /fc, ^^ 1.0 I.I 1^128 12.5 |50 ^^^ IHHsSi ■^ 1^ 12.2 i '- IIIM lill 1.8 111.25 11.4 ii.6 v) ^^% ^ > c;^ "-A y Photoerapbic Sciences Corporaliun 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 <^ <^- » A j9 ,V4 v- ^ ^ ^^ CV 1 460 HI8T0BT OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. Those who took to the left fell in with f'aptalu Miller's company, who killed five on the spot, and the rest were not less suecessful in the pursuit, which was con- tinued to the crossing of the river, where the enemy had taken a stand to defend the ford. Being here rejoined by Captain Miller and by Lieutenant Curtis with part ot Maxon's company, we tired a volley, and I ordered a charge across the river, which was gallantly executed. In doing this. Private Shirley Ensign of Henness' company, who was in the front, was wounded in the face vSeveral of the enemy were killed at this point. We continued the pursuit until the enemy had reached the rocky canyons leading towards Powder river and commenced scattering in ev- ery direction, wlien, rtnding that I had but tive men witli me, and the rest of the command scattered in the rear, most of the horses being completely exhausted — 1 called a halt, and fell back, calculating to remount the men on the captured horses and continue the pursuit after niglit. I found the pack train, guard and reserve, encamped on a small creek not far from the crossing, as I had previously ordered them to do, anu learned that a body of the enemy had followed them up all day, and annoyed tlunn, but had inllicted no danuvge beyond capturing many of the animals which we had taken in charge, and left behind. I learned, also, that Major Maxon had crossed the river with a small party, and was engage<l with the enemy, and wanted assistance. I immediately dispatched a detachment under Lieutenants Williams and Wait, sending the man who brought the infornuxtion l)ack with them as a guide. They returned after dark, without tlnd- Ing the Major, but brought in one of his men whom they found in the brush, and who stated that one of the Major's men was killed, and that the last he saw of them they were lighting with the Indians, At daylight I sent out Captain Miller with seventy men, wlio scouted around the whole valley without rtnding him, but who, unfortunately, had one man killed and another wounded wliilst pursuing some In- dians I resolved to move cami) the next <lay to the head of the valley, where the emigrant trail crosses it, and continue the search until we became certain of their fate. The same evening I took sixty men under Captain lienne^s, and struck upon the mountain and crossed the heads of the canyons to see if 1 could not strike his trail. Finding no sign I returned to the place where the Major had last l)een seen, and there made search in dillerent directions, and finally found the body of one of his men (Tooley)and where the Major had encamped in the brush. From other signs it became evident to me that the Major had returned to this post by the same trail by wliich we first entered the valley. Being nearly out of provisions, and unable to follow the Indians fnuii this delay, I concluded to return to camp, recruit for another expedition in conjunc- tion with Cai)tain Gotl", who had, I presumed, returned from his expedition to John Day's Kiver. I should have mentioned previously that in the charj^e, the comnumd captured and afterwards destroyed about one hundred and flfty hcu'se loads lacamas, dried beef, tents, some Hour, coffee, sugar, and about one hundred pounds of ammunition and a great quantity of tools and kitchen furniture. We took also about two hun- dred horses, most of which were shot, tliere being but about one hundred service- able animals. There were present on the ground from what I saw, and from information re- ceived from two scjuawa taken prisoners, about three hundn l warriors of the Cay- use, Walla Walla, Umatilla, Tygli, John Dcy and DesChutes tribes, commanded by the following chiefs: 8tock Whitley and Bim-mis-tas-tas (DesChutes and Tygh) ; Cbiuk-iab, Plyou, Wic-e-cai, Wat-uh-stuartih, Win-im-suoot (Cayuses) ; Tah-kiu Cayuae, the bod of Peu-peu-mox-ixiox (Walla Walla), and other oblef* of lew Qot«. CAMPAIGNS OF COLONELS WRIGHT, STEPTOE AND SHAW. 461 led on- mcl ith ■er, The whole command, officers and men, behaved well. The enemy was run on the gallop fifteen miles, and most of them who fell wore shot with the revolver. It ia imijossible to state how mitiy of the enemy were killed. Twenty-seven bodies were counted by one individual, and many others wo know to have fallen and been left, but were so scattered about tliat it was impossible to get count of them. When to these we add tliose killed Ijy Major Maxon's command on the other side of the river, we may safely conclude that at leasi forty of the enemy were slain, and many went off" wounded. AVJien we left the valley there was not an Indian in it ; and all the signs went to sIdw that they had gone a great distance from it. On the twenty-first instant we left tlie valley by the emigrant road, and com- menced our return to camp. During the night Lieutenant Hunter, of the VVash- ington Territory volunteers, came into camp with an e,Ki)ress from Captain Gofl'. I learned, to my surprise, that the ('aj>tain and Major Luyton had seen Indians on .John Day's River ; had followed them over to the head of Burnt River, and had !iad a tight with them, in wliich Lieutenant Eustus and one private were killed, and ■<onie seven Indians. They were shaping tlitMr course for the Grand Ronde Valley, and had sent for jirovisions aiul fresh horses. I immediately sent Lieuten- ant Willianjs back witl) all my spare provisions and. horses, and continued my march. On Wild Horse ("reoK I came across Mr. Fites, a pack master, who had been left in camj). who informed me, to Jny extreme satisfaction, that Major Maxon and his command arrivi'd safe in camp, and were then near us with provisions and ammunition. TIk'^sc I sent ou imme<liately to Captain GofT. I learned that Major Maxon had l)een attjicked in the valley by a large force of Indians on the day of the llirht; had gaineil tlie brush and killed many of them; that at night he tried to find our camp, and hearing a noise like a child crying, probably one of the captured s<iuaws. had concluded that my command had gone on to Powder River, and tliut the Indians had returned to the valley by another can- yon. He niove<l his position that night, and the next day saw the scout looking for him. but in the distaixe thouglit it was a t)and of Indians hunting his trail. C'on- ceivirg himself cut off" from the command, he thought it best to return to his (iamp, thinking that we w<uld be <m our way back to Grand Ronde with provisions and ammunition. The force under Cjiptain F. M. P. Goff, seventy-five men, and Major Layton, one Imndred men, had moved up the John Day, and crossinir tlie Blue Mountains reached the vicinity of Burnt River on the twelfth of July. Owing to severe illness of Captain Goff, he was forced to remain in camp until the fifteenth, with a portion of his command, while the remainder of the force, under Major Lay- ton, was scouting in search of the enemy. Layton's scouts reached the heatl of Burnt River on the fifteenth and camped, when Ideu- tenant John Eustus, with two men, proposed tiscending a neighbor- ing bluff to get a view of the surrounding country. They were advised not to attempt it, but determined to do so, and, tis they ap- proached the summit, were fired upon by ambushed hostiles, the Lieutenant and Daniel Smith of Company K being killed. The third ma!i made a miraculous escape, and was met in his wild flight by comrades; coming to his assistance, before he reached the camp 462 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. that lay in plain view below. Lieutenant Hunter, at the head of his command, charged up the hill, drove the Indians off from it, re- covered the bodies of the dead soldiers, and then fell back to camp. The next morning found them suri'ounded by the enemy, and a skirmishing engagement followed thi'ough the day, which resulted in nothing decisive except the wounding of one soldier named Cheney, the wounding of one, and killing of three Indians. On the seventeenth, as Captain Goff approached the battle gi-ound with liis company, the hostiles disa])peared, and, on the eigiiteenth, the line of march in the direction of Grand Ronde was resumed. Form- ing a junction with Major Maxon, both forces moved to the general cam[) on Mill Creek. In the battles on Burnt Iliver and in Grand Ronde Valley, the following casualties occurred: Killed, Lieutenant John Eustus, and privates Daniel Smith, William Holmes, of Comj)any K; William Irven, William F. Tooley, of Company A. Wounded, James Che- ney, of Company K; Thomas Conio, of Company A; Shirley En- sign, of Company C; William Downy, of Company D; T. N. Lilley, of Com])any 1. When Colonel Shaw reached Mill Creek, he found Agent Robie there, having l)een ordered out of the Nez Perce country with his goods, and having made a forced mai'ch of one hundred miles to reach a place of safety. From this it was apparent that the war party in that tribe had gained the ascendency. The danger which (Governor Stevens had feared was imminent; but Colonel Shaw acted 2:>romptly in the emergency, using the prestige of his recent victory at Grand Ronde to the l)e8t possible advantage. He sent the Nez Perce chief. Captain John, to his countrymen at Lapwai with intelligence of recent events; and ciiarged him to convey to them the following message: " I am your friend. I have not come to fight you, but the hostiles; but, if you beat your drums for war, I will parade my men for battle." This news and message was enough. The peace party again gained control of the tribe and the threatened danger was averted. Had the Nez Perces gone to war, every tribe between the Cascade and Rocky Mountains would have joined in a war of extermination, and the settlements on Puget Sound, in the Willamette Valley and in Southern Oregon would have been hemmed in and threatened, if not actually attacked, by CAMPAIGNS OF COLONELS WRIGHT, STEPTOE AND SHAW. 468 a cordon of warriore extending from California to British Colurab'a until a sufficient force of troops could be sent to their relief. What horrors might have resulted, appals the mind to contemplate. Colonel Shaw remained in camp on Mill Creek to hold the key to the Indian country and retain the advantages gained by so great a sacrifice. Meanwhile, Colonel Wright had returned to The Dalles from his fruitless expedition into the Yakima country, and proceeded to carry out his previous design of establishing a military post in the AValJa AValla country, which had been so hastily abandoned when the attack was made upon the Cascades. He assigned this duty to Lieutenant-Colonel E. J, Steptoe, placing at his disposal a battalion of two hundred and fifty men. It was then determined to do what should have been done in the first place — to notify the people that the treaties were not yet in force, and every one must remain out of the Indian country until the pending treaties were ratified, except the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company and others who, like that corporation, had made special arrangements with the Indians. Before starting, therefore, Colonel Steptoe made the following announcement : — Fort Dalles, O. T., August 20, 1856. The undersigned, having been designated to estiiblish a military post in the Walla Walla country, and with a view to prevent all misunderstanding on the sub- ject, believes it proper to make known the following instruction he has received from the Pacific Military Department:— "No emigrant or other white person, except the Hudson's Bay Company, or persons having ceded rights from the Indians, will be permitted to settle or to re- main in the Indian country, or on land not settled, or not confirmed by the Senate and approved by the President of the United States." These orders are not, however, to apply to the miners engaged in collecting gold at Colville mines. [Signed] E. J. STEPTOE, Brevet Colonel U. 8. A. Five days before the issuance of this proclamation, Governor Stevens, having conferred with Colonel Wright as to his plans, went up to the Walla Walla camp for the purpose -of mustering out the volunteers, whose term of service expired on the eighth of September, as soon as Steptoe should arrive to relieve them. He also proposed to hold councils with the tribes and agree upon terms of a pei'manent peace. When he arrived at Colonel Shaw's camp, on Mill Creek, near the present city of Walla Walla, he sent out runners to all the tribes, inviting them to attend a general 484 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. council in the Walla Walla Valley. Colonel Steptoe arrived on the fifth of September, and went into camp, five miles below the proposed ooimcil ground. What occuri'ed there is related by Governor Stevens in a letter to the Secn^tary of War, and, in perusing it the reader is cautioned to keep constantly in mind the strong prejudices and marked egotism of the author. The events related are no doubt correct, but inferences drawn and opinions expressed fall short of doing full justice to the regulars, or repre- senting tli(Mr conduct in the proper light. Throughout the whole war, as lias been amply shown by previous events, he acted as though every one, including the officers of the regular army, must bend to liis ideas ; everything must be measured with his tape line ; liis idea of co-operation was for the regulars to be guided entirely by him ; when they failed so to do he freely charged them with incompetency and willful misconduct, and in that spirit this letter was written. It says : — On the evening of the tenth, the Indians being all in except the Yaklinas, and none friendly except a portion of the Nez Perces, and orders having lieen given to all the volunteers to go home the next day, I made a requisition ujjon Lieuten- ant-Colonel Steptoe for two companies of his troops and his mountain howitzers, and to my surjjrise, learned from Ills answer that he had moved his camp to a point on Mill Creek some seven or eight miles above my camp, and that his orders from General Wool did not allow him to comply with my requisition. I say to my sur- prise, for in my interview with Colonel Wright at Vancouver, referred to in my report of the fourteenth of August, I understood, as I went to the inten.r in my capacity simply of Superintendent of Indian Atrairs, that in effecting the objects of the council, I was to have the co-operation of the military force he was about to send there ; a co-operation which the good of the service most urgently demanded. I had already raised nearly two hundred six months' men to strengthen the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Shaw, under a proclamation issued immediately after the re- ceipt of the news of tlie battle of Grand Ronde, and I had four months' supplies to subsist them. This proclamation was revoked on my arrival at Vancouver, and the troops raised under It disbanded. In Interviews held afterwards with Colonel Wright at The Dalles, I dwelt upon theolijects to be gained by the council ; referred to the effect of the presence of his troops there, and left him witli the belief,.that It was an arranged and agreed on thing between the Colonel and myself, that I v«8 to have the countenance and support of the regular force in the Walla Walla to carry into efTect the beneficent designs of the council. Colonel Wrii?ht stated that other duties would prevent his accompanying me ; that he had entire confidence la Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe, the officer in command, and his presence would be un- necessary. Accordingly, previous to Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe'a reaching the valley, I sent him two letters, each urging him to camp near me ; my object being to show the Indians the strength of our people, and the unity of our (M)uncils ; and I also wrote Captain D. Russell, on his way from the Yakimas with three com- panies, to the saine effect. On the arrival of Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe in the valley, I urged him persoually to camp uear me. The rsquisitiou was refused and CAMPAIGNS OF COLONELS WRIGHT, STKPTOE AND SHAW. MiO I was therefore obliged to countermand the order seudiuif lioiiii' the voluiitoerM whose terra of enlistment had all expired, and of which only GoiT's company, sixty- nine rank and file, remained, a portion of whom were on tlujir way down, and had to be called back. This force only remained to guard my camp. The council opened on the eleventh &ud continued on tlio twelftli and thirteentli, when so alarming was tlie condition of affairs, that I det'iiiud it my duty, on the morning of the thiriucnth, to address a confidential note to Steptoe, advising him that one-half of the Nez Perces were unquestionably hostile; that all the otiiei' tribes were hostile, with a very few exceptions, and that a company of his tro<)])s was essential to the security of my camp ; and at his suggestion 1 moved my party, train and supplies, with (jofT's company of volunteers, to tlic vicinity of liis camp. I met Karaa-i-akun and liis followers on my way tliere, anil it is pn)l)ably owing to :^o one being advised of my intention to move till the order was given an hour i>c- fore I started, that I was not attacked on the road. Kama-i-ukun liail unijuestion- ably an understanding, as subseipient events showed, witli all llic Imiians, except the friendly Nez Perces (about one-half the nation), and a small number of friendly Indians of the other tribes, to make an attack that day or evening iijion my (^anip. He found me on the roarl to his great surprise, and had no time to perfect his ar- rangements. I had learned in the niglit that Kama-i-akun liad encamped on the Touchet the night before, and that he would be in this day. The council reopened on the sixteenth ; all the Indians were camped near, Kama-i-akun and his banc^ being only separated from the council ground by a narrow skirt of woods in the bottom of Mill Creek; and was closed the next day, all my ettorts, both to make an arrangement with the hostiles, and to do away with the disaffection of the Ne/. Perces having proved abortive. On the eighteenth, at a separate (council with the Nez Perces, all, both hostile and friendly Xez Perces, advised the sub-agent, Wm. Craig, not to return to the Nez Perce country as his life would be in danger, and they were afraid he would be killed. At the conclusion of this council, in a brief address to tlie Indians, I expressed my regrets that I had failed in )ny mission ; that no one said " Yes " to my propositions, and now had only to say, " Follow your own hearts; those who wish to go into war, go." My propositions were uncondi- titmal submission to the justice and mercy of che Government, and the rendition for trial of murderers. In the afternoon Lieutenant-Colonel Steptoe informed these Indians that he came there to estsiblish a jjost, not co fight them ; trusted they should get along as friends, and appointed the next day, a little after noon, for a special conference. The Indians did not, however, come to see Steptoe at the time appointed. They jireviously set fire to his grass, and following me a« I set out about eleven o'.'lock on my way to The Dalles, they attacked me within three miles of Steptoe's camp at al>out one o'clock in the afternoon. So satisfied was I that the Indians would carry into effect their avowed determination in the councils in their own camps for several nights previously to attack me, that, in starting T formed my whole party and moved in order of battle. I moved on under fire one mile to water, when forming a corral of the wagons and holding the adjacent hills and the brush on the stream by pickets, I made my arrangements to defend my position and fight the Indians. Our position in a low open basin, five or six hundred yards across, was good, and with the aid of our corral, we could defend ourf^elves against a vastly superior force of the enemy. The fight continued till late in the night. Two charges were made to disperse the Indians, the last led by Lieutenant-Colonel iShaw in person with twenty-four men ; but, whilst driving before him some one hundred and fifty Indians, an equal number pushed into his rear, and he was com- pelled to cut his way through them towards camp, when, drawing up his men, and aided by the t^amstei's and pickets, who gallantly sprang forward, he drove the 4<J6 UlSTOUY OF WILLAMKTTK VALLKV. IndlaiiH buck in full charge upon the corral. Just before the charge the friendly Nez Perces, fifty In number, who had been assigned to hold the ridge on the south side of the corral, were told by the enemy, they came not to light tlie Ncz Perces, but tlie whitest. "f!o to your camp," said they, 'or wc will wipe it out!" Their camp, with the women and children, was on a stream about a mile distant ; and T directed tliem to retire as I did not require their assistance, and was iVnrt'ul that my men might not be able to distinguish them from hostiles, and thus friendly Indians be killed. Towards niglit I notified Lieutenant-Colonel Bteptoe that I was flgliting the Indians; that I should move tl»e next morning, and expri's-st'd the opinion that a company of his troops would be of service. In his r('i)ly he stated that the Indians had burnt up his grass, and suti'gested that I should return to his cam|i, and place at his disposal njy wagons, in order that he might move his whole conmiand and his supplies to the Uuiatilla or some other point, where sustenance could be found for his aninuds. To this arrangement I assented, and IJeutcnant-C'olonel Steptoe sent to my camp liieutenant Davidson, with detachments from tlie '•omi)anies of tlragoons and artillery with a mountain howitzer. They reached my camp alwut two o'clock in the morning, cverytliing in good order, and mosi of the men at the corral asleep. A i)icket had been driven in an hour and a half before by the enemy: that on the hill soutli of the corral, Imt the eiieiiiy was immediately dis- lodged and ground pits being dug, all the points were held. The howitzer having been fired on the way out, it was believed nothing would be gained by waiting till morning, and the whole force immediately returned to Tiicutenant-Colonel Step- toe's camp. 8oon after sunrise, Ihe enemy attacked the camp, but were simju dis- lodged by the liowitzer and a charge l)y a detachment from ytei)toe's comiiiand. On my arrival at the cam J), 1 urged Lieutenant-Colonel 8tcptoo to build a block- house immediately ; to leave one company to defend it with all his supplies ; theq to march below and return with an additional force and additional supplies, and l)y a vigorous winter campaign to whip the Indians into submission. I placed at ids disposal for the building, my teams and Indian employes. The l>lock-house and stockade were built in a little more than ten days. My FrMlian storeroom wan rebuilt at one corner of the stockade. On the twenty -third September, we started for The Dalles, which we reached on the second October. Nothing of interest occurred on the road. In the action of the nineteenth, my wliole force consisted of Golf's com])any of sixty-nine rank and file, the teamsters, herders and Indian employes, numbering about fifty men. Our train consisted of about five hundred animals, not one of which was captured by the enemy. We fought four hundred and fifty Indians, and had one man mortally, one dangerously, and two slightly wounded. We killed and wounded thirteen Indians. One-half the Ncz Perces, one luuulred and twenty warriors, all of the Yaklmas and Palouse, two hundred warriors ; the great bulk of the Cayuses and Umatlllas, -— -: — warriors; of the Walla Wallas and Indians from other bands, were in the fight. The principal war chiefs were the son of Ouhi, Isle de Pere and chief Qultomee; the latter of whom liad two horses shot under him, and who showed me a letter from Colonel Wright, acknowl- edging bis valuable services In bringing about the peace of tlie Yakiujas. 1 have failed, therefore, in making the desired arrangements with the Indians in the Walla Walla, and the failure, to be attributed In part to the want of co-operation with me as Superintendent of Indian Affairs on tlie jmrt of the regular troops, has its CJiuses also in the whole plan of operations of the troops since Colonel Wright assumed command. T state Iwldly, that the cause of the Nez Perces becoming disaffected and finally going Into war. Is the operations of Colonel Wright east of the Cascades -operations so feeble, so procrastinating, so entirely unequal to the CAMPAIGNS OF COLONELS WRIGHT, STEPTOK AND SHAW. 461 Idly oiith rces, 'heir lid r my iHU8 emergency, that not only has a moat severe blow been struck ut the credit of the Government and the prosperity and character of this remote section of country, but the impression has been made upon the Indians that the ])i'ople and the soldiers were a different people. T repeat to you officially that when the Indians attiicked me, they expected Colonel Steptoe would not assist me, and when they awoke from their dei'^sion, Kama-iakun said, "I will now let these people know who Kama-i-akun is." One of the good efleets of the fight is, that the Indians have learned that we are one people, a fact which had not previously been made apparent to them by the operations of the regular troops. Is, sir, the army sent here to pro- tect our people and to ])unish Indian tribes, who without cause, and in cold blood, and in spite of solemn treaties, murder our people, burn our houses, and wipe out entire settlements? Is it the duty of General Wool and his officers to refuse to co- operate with me in my appropriate duties as Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and thus practically to assume those duties themselves? Is it the duty of General Wool, in his schemes of pacifying the Indians, to trample down the laws of Con- gress; to issue edicts prohibiting settlers returning to their claims, and thus for at least one county, the Walla Walla, make himself dictator of the country? Early iu November the regulars again marched into the Walla Walla couiitry, Colonel Wright taking command of the expedition in person, and camped on Mill Creek on the .site oi the city of Walla Walla. Here he held a council with the tribes and agreed upon terms of peace. He promised them immunity from punish- ment for their past conduct, and that the treaties should not be en- forced until duly ratified by the Senate and promulgated by the President, until which time no white man would be permitted to settle in their country without their permission. Thus ended the war. That this did not meet with the approval of Governor Ste- vens can well be imagined. He had always maintained that the In- dians had bound themselves by solemn obligations, which the}' had deliberately broken, and for which conduct they were deserving of severe chastisement. It is one of the simplest rules of equity that a c(jntract must be ecpially binding upon both jiarties to be valid. Governor Stevens knew this ; and yet he insisted that these treaties were in full force with the Indians while as yet they were not bind- ing upon the Government, being as yet unratified. Had he, as the Superintendent of Indian Affairs for Washington, and his associate oflScial iu Oregon, Joel Palmer, acted prudently, and, instead of hastening to notify the people that the Indian title had been ex- tinguished by treaty, cautioned them, that, as yet, the treaties were but blank paper, and no rights whatever had been acquired under 'hem by the whites, the whole difficulty, with its attendant train of bloodshed and expense, might, perhaps, have been averted. It 468 HISTORY OK WILLAMETTK V ALLEY. is not n'vtaiii that siicli would hjivo l»<*tMi the case, hut heyond a • louht there would have l)eeii oue [M)wei'ful disturbing element ab- sent. The Governoi' relieved his feelings in another of tiiose long letters to the Secretai'v »>f War, none of which seem to have influ- enee<l the Depai'tnient to remove, or even een^ure, (Jeneral Wool or Colonel Wright. He closed his epistle with the following [)ara- gra})h: ''1 now make the direct issue with Colonel Wright; that he ]nui made a concession to the Indians which he had no authority to make; that l>y so doing, he has done nothing but to get the sem- blance of a peace. | This was, in a measure, true; for the Indians still entertained theii- bitter feelings against the Americans, and exhibited a very defiant spirit); and that by his acts he has, in a measure, A\(!akened the influence of the service having the authority to make ti'eaties and having in charge the frien<lly Indians. | Gov- ernor Stevens himself was responsible for \\eakening the influence of the treat) -making power, by emleavoring to enforce treaties he well knew were not in etTect. | He has, in my judgment, abandoned his own <luty, which wa>* to reduce the Indians to submission | to Governor Stevens |, and has trenched upon and usurped mine." It is well enough to let the matter drop; the war was ended, and the people had a large bill against the (leneral (irovernment, which was, finally, after experiencing the usual vicissitudes and jn'ocrastina- tions of C\)ngressional action, paid in a somewhat modified form. It was subsequent to this affair at Walla Walla, and after all the volnnteei's had been disbamled, that the long dreade<l invawion of Noilhern Indians occurred on Puget SouikI. Information was received by Captain S. Swartwout (fn the eighteenth of November, 185H, that Northern Indians were committing depredations in the vicinity of Steilacoom, and he at once set sail from Seattle to inter- cept them. Learning at Steilacoom that the Resei'vation Indians had defeated these Northern intruders in battle, killed two of them and captured one canoe, Swartwout [)ursued the retreating savages down the Sound. Parsing Port Madison, where they had commit- ted ravages, he continued on to Port Gamlde, where, on the twen- tieth he fcmnd them encamped in force. An effort to open a peace talk was fruitless, as they Avould not permit a boat to land. Ac- cordingly, Lieutenant Young was dis])atched with three boats, forty- five men and a howitzer, to escort an interpreter, wdio w>us to offer ( A.MI'AKiNS (»!• ( ol.oNKI.S \V ItlOll'l", s'|'i:i'T( tK AM» SII.WV 4f.9 tlieiii |t(fiif(' if tlit'V would .'iliMixloii tilt' SouikI. They rcfnswl to iic<'('|)t the t<'nns, ,111(1 iiisnltiiiirly chnllcnyerl the niai-iiu's to fight. Lieutenant ^'oull^• returned on hoard, and (\'i))tain Swartwout de- terinine(| to attack them in the niorninu'. Duriny,' the night the ship was moved in shoic, and anchored with hei* Itroadside l)eanng npon the camj), only six hundred yards distant. In the morning Lieutenant Semmes went in the first cutter to the <'onsort Steamer Traveller^ which was anchoi'ed a1>o\ c the camp so that it could be raked Uy the tiehl pieces on ]>oard. From there he landed with Lientenant Forest and twenty-nine sailors and marines, wading waist deep to reach the shore and cai'rying a howitzer in their arms. With them went the intei'pretei' to carry a final projjosition of |»eace. Instead (»f heing daunted 1>y the formidal»le prepai-ations for their subjugation, the Indians refused to accept the terms offered, and taking shelter heliind trees and h)gs jxtinted their guns at the little party on the beach. The Traveller at once opened tire upon them from her field guns, the first discharge being simultaneous with the first volley fired by the savages. Instantly the ship [)Oured a ])roa<l- side of round sh»)t and grajje nito the cani|) and woods where they were concealed, while the howitzer on the l)each also sent in its compliments. Unthn- covei- of the guns, the little paity made a bold charge and dr(»ve the Indians from their camp into the woods, (^wing to the density of underbrush and fallen timber, it was im- possible to follow them, and, after destroying the camp and pro[)- erty of the niaraudei-s and disabling all but one of their canoes, Lieutenants Semmes and Forest returned on board. During the day the giuis played upcm the woods \\ herever an Indian could be seen, and it was thought the execution was considerable. On thi' part of the assailants, one man was killed and another wounded. The next day the Indians sent two of their chiefs on board to beg foi' mercy and offer to surrendei' unconditionally. They said that they had lost twenty-seven of their numbei', besides many wounded, that their proi)erty and canoes were destroyed and they had been with- out food two days. They were all supplied with food, taken on board the ship, and carried to A'^ictoria, promising never to return. Never after that were the white settlements molested In maraudinn' savages from the north, though the aborigines of the Sound have, frequently suffered from their hostile incursions. m 470 niSTORT OF WILLAMKTTK VALLKY. There was iiuvv a semblance of peace everywhere. The volun- teers had all been disbanded, and an ample force of regulars was stationed in Southern Oregon, on the Columbia and on Puget Sound. A strong force o"cupied the Walla Walla country, and endeavored, while the treaties were being ground through the official mill at Washington, to stand as a bulwark between the two races, and prevent either from infringing the rights of th i other. A snuill saw mill was taken up in the spring of 1857, and lumber cut for the erection of bari'acks and officers' quaj ters, which were built within the present limits of the city of Walla Walla. In the command of this post was Lieutenant- Colonel E. J. Step- toe, the garrison consisting of several companies of the 9th In- fantry. The Indians were atill in a hostile frame of mind, and the presence of the troops in their country was distasteful to them, the feeling extending to, and affecting, the tribes as far north as the Spokanes. This feeling is revealed in a letter wi'itten April 15, 1857, by Father A. Hoeken, of the Flat Head Mission, addressed to a brother priest. A paragraph of that epistle says : — Father Ravalli labored as much as he could to pacify the tribes which reside towards the west, namely: the Cayuses, the Yaklmas, the Opclouses [Palouses], etc As our neophytes [Flat Heads and Cceur d'Alenes] hitherto have taken no part in the war, the country is as safe for us as ever. We can go freely wherever we desire. No one is ignorant that the Black Gowns [Catholic prlestsj are not enemies— tliose, at least, who are among the Indians. Almost all the Coeur d'Alenes, in order to shield themselves from the hostilities of thfe Indians, and to avoid all relations witli them, are gone bison hunting. A few days since, Father Joset wrote me that Fatlier Ravalli had already written him several weeks before. I fear a general rising among the Indians toward the commencement of spring. Let us pray, and let us engage others to pray with us, to avert tliis calamity. I think that it wUl be well to add to the ordinary prayers of the mass, the collect for peace. The outbreak did not occur as predicted, owing, possibly, to the efficacy of the worthy missionaries' prayers, but apparently due to an absence of a sufficient provocation which might serve as a pretext for war. That not much of a provocation was required was made evident the following year. In the spring of 1858 Palouse Indians stole some stock from the troops at Walla W^alla, and on the eighth of May Colonel Steptoe marched north, with a force of one hundred and fifty men, intending to visit Fort Colville, and on his return to capture the thieving Indians. This expedition met with signal disaster, ( AMI'AKJ.N.S »»K (OI.ONKI.S WKKIIIT, SI i;i'T(»l': AND SHAW. 471 through most tiiiniilii.iiy carHh^ssni'.ss. One hundred luides weiv detiiilod for the pack tr.-uu, and when these were loachui it waw found tli.tt there w.is no room for the sur[)hiH ammunition which had Im'cii set (»ui. riiis was taken baek to the magazine, and the eomniaud iiiMiclied with only the anununition carried in the ear- ti'idge l»oxes of the iiicii. Such eareh-'ssness invited the disaster which followed. Steptoe crossed Snake River, near the mouth of the Ali)owa wh<'n he was joined by a friendly Nez Perce chief named " Timo- thy," and three of his warriors, ('oi, ", lincr noith, he ap])roached foui' lakes lying north of Pine Creek, the liulians gradually collect- ing ill givat numlxM's. Here he wax informed l>y them that he must leave this region and retuni t > Walla Walla, or they would ■Attack him. Camping at the lak»^s for tli' night, the comnnind l)e- gan its reti'ogra(h' march at three o'clock on the morning of the seventeenth of April, the Indians continually hovering on its flanks. Ste|)toe held a conference with Saltees, a Cour d'Alene chief, Kathei- Joseph acting as intei'[»reter, being assured that no aitack nould be made upon him. The chief then shouted something to his fuUow- ers, when one of the friendly Nez Perces, riamed Levi, struck him on the head with a whip, saying, " What for you say 'no fight' and then tell your peo[)le ' wait awhile' i Voii talk two tongues.'' A bout nine o'clock in the morning, as the command approached Pine Creek, near the present town of Rosalia, passing down a natural "wash,'' it was fired uj)on by Indians secreted in the timber across the stream, and occui)ying elevated positions (m the flank. Lieutenant Gaston prompttly charged and cleared an opening to the highlands south of the creek, Iteing followed by the entire force. The howitzer was unlimbered and discharged, killing no one, but serving, by its noise, to somewhat intimidate the assailants. By charging them, the enemy wew cleai'ed awa}', and the I'etreat was resumed with the pack irain in the van, the flanks and rear being covered. Lieu- tenant James Wheeler was on the right, Lieutenant William Gaston on the left, and Captain O. H. P. Taylor guarded the rear, each with a company. Chai'ge after charge of the enemy wjis repulsed, rur-n falling continually and being left to the tender mercy of the savages in man}' cases where it was impossible to carry them away. At last many of Lieutenant Gaston's men used their last round of ) 472 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ammunition, and he sent an orderly to Colonel Steptoe, who was with the train in the van, asking that the command be halted until more could be issued ; but the request was not gi'anted. Captain Taylor's company next fired its last shot, and this fact, as well as the fall of Gaston, was communicated to the superior officer. He then ordered a halt. The contest in the rear was now a desperate hand tc> hand struggle. Both Gaston and Taylor lay on the ground, their men fighting stubbornly for possession of their bodies. Among them was a private named DeMay, who had been an officer in the French army in Algiers and the Crimea, and was an excellent swordsman. Clubbing his musket he made a- furious onslaught upon the assailing savages, and as he was borne down by numbers he cried, " Mon Dieu, Mou Dieu, mine saber!" At last the Indians were driven back and the body of Captain Taylor was rescued. So demoralized had become the main body of the troops, that the call of Lieutenant Gregg for volunteers to go to the assistance of the hard-pressed rear guj.rd, was answered by only ten men. He then led a charge, but soon found himself alone and rode back with- out uttering a word. To save the retreat from becoming a com- plete rout, which would have resulted in the utter annihilation of the force, Colonel Steptoe went into camp and threw out a strong line of pickets. The Indians encamped near by, apparently will- ing to bide their time, feeling certain of their victims. Every avenue of escape was guarded but one, and that one was a difficult pass which they supposed the soldiers could not travel. The Nez Perce chief was then their savior. When the night was well ad- vanced, liaviug cached the howitzers and left their surplus stores to engage the attention of the savages, so as to delay pursuit in the morning, the troops mounted and followed Timoth}' in single file, as he led them through the unguarded pass. The woimded of each company were placed in charge of some of their comrades, a few of them being so ])adly hurt as to l)e utterly helpless. These were tied upon pack animals. Two of them, Sei'geaut Williams and Private McCrosson, suffered such ex- cruciating agony from the motion of the animals, that they begged to be killed, to be given poison, or a pistol with which to end their misery. Both of them succeeded in wriggling off from the animals they rode in different places ; and their comrades, cutting them CAMPAIGNS OF COLONELS WRIGHT, STKPTOE AND SHAW. 47.'» free from the lashings, left them lying on the ground, and rode away into the darkness unmindful of their pleadings for something with which to end their misery and save themselves from the toi • tures of their cruel pui'suers. One by one the wounded, such as could not take care of themselves, were left behind, and the men hastened forward, intent onlj upon putting the swift curi'ent of Snake River between themselves and the t ruel enemy in their rear. Seventy miles were traversed in twenty-four hours, when they reached the river near the mouth of the Alpowa, where lived Timothy's band of Nez Perces. Summoning his people, the chief placed the warriors on guard in the rear, while the women ferried the exhausted soldiers, with their animals and effects, across the stream. It took a day to accomplish this task, and then they moved (m to the Pataha, where they were met by Captain Dent, with supplies and reinforcements. Here, also, they were overtaken by a war party of Nez Perces under Lawyer, who desired them to return and give the Indians battle ; Init they desired no more fight- ing for the present, and the march to Walla Walla was continued. Two officers and sixteen men were left upon the fiehi or along the line of the retreat, while more than a score of those who found safety by crossing Snake River, were severely wounded. Intelligence of this disaster was conveyed to General Clark, successor of General Wool in command of the department, and he ordered all available troops on the Coast to assemble at Walla Walla, for the purpose of administering to the Indians such a castigation as would teach them the power of the Government. This force was placed under the command of Colonel Wright. A l)a8e of operations, named " Ft)i't Taylor," was established on the south side of Snake River, near the Tukannon, and on the twenty-seventh of August Colonel Wright moved forward with six hundred and eighty soldiers, thirty Nez Perce allies, and two hundred packers, herders, etc. On the first of September he en- countered the hostiles near Medical Lake, and whipped them severely. They were diiven from the timber and hills by the howitzers, and a charge by the troops, and attempting to make a stand on the open plain, were mowed down by the fire of the steadily advancing troops, who were armed with long range guns for the first time in their encounter with Indians. When they 474 HISTORY OF WILLAMETTE VALLEY. broke, two hundred dragoons, under the coiiuurtud of Major William N. Grier, swooped down upon them, and they fled in a panic, the companies of the dead Taylor and Gaston taking grim revenge upon the fleeing savages who had slain their commandei-s. How many were killed is not known, as all but those who fell during the la<t charge were carried from the fiehl. Seventeen bodies were left upon the ground, which was strewn with blankets, robes, guns and the miscellaneous paraphei'nalia of Indian war- riors. Not a soldier was killed in the battle. P'oui' days later the command reached Spokane River, six miles below the falls, 'laving driven the hostiles before them for fourteen miles, killing many of tliem. This was the end ; the Indians fled in terror, and dared not again offei* battle to such a terrible foe. Colonel Wright pushed on toward the C»eur dWlene Mission, and was met by Gearry, chief of the Spokanes, who asked for peace. The stern avenger told the suppliant chief that he came to fight, not to make peace ; that he had force enough to Avhip the com- bined tribes of that whole region ; that he otfei-ed no terms of peace, the Indians, men, women iuid chihlren, must come in and trust to his mercy ; otherwise he woidd exterminate the tribe. On the eighth Wright captured nine hundred and eighty-six liorses from the Palouses, and, knowing how vital they wei'e in Indian warfare, he ordered evt^ry one of them to be shot. This was more than they could endure, and the concurrent appearance of a brilliant comet in the heavens, made them think C'olonel Wright was a scourge sent l)y the Great Spirit, who hung his flaming sword in the sky as a sign of his anger. Tiiey sued for peace. Councils were held with the various tribes, at which, u))on the demand of Colonel Wright, the men who had ct)mmenced the attack upon Colonel Steptoe were delivered up for punisiiment, and hos- tages were given for their future good conduct. Twelve of the guilty ones were hanged, among whom was (jualchien, who had killed Agent Bolan in 1855. His father, Owhi, second chief of the Yakimas, was a prisoner, and attempting to escape near Fort Taylor, was killed by the guard. On the seventh of October the bones of those who fell in Steptoe's battle were buried at Fort Walla Walla, and Wright then held a council with the Walla Walla tribe. So great had become the fear of him, that when he called thori July to aett 1858 compa quite a Was bi I^ane, recomn penses claims- coming «equenc CAMPAIGNS OK COLONELS WRIGHT, 8TEPTOE AND SHAW. 475 for all those who had taken part in the battle to stand up, thirty- five warriors promptly rose to their feet. Four of these were selected for execution, and their hanging was witnessed by their people with fear and trembling. This was the end, and until chief Joseph and his small band of Nez Perces broke out twenty years later, not an Indian of all those tribes went again upon the war path against the whites. Colonel AVright was promoted during the civil war to the rank of Brigadier, and commanded the Department of the Pacific. His energy, watchfulness, and sterling patriotism kept down the ever- rising flame of trea.son, and held the Coast loyal to the Government throughout the bloody struggle. Pie became very dear to the peo- ple who had so long relied upon ' him for pi'otection, and it was a day of mouiTiing when the sad news came that he had found a watery grave. With his family and staff he was engulfed in the stormy watei-s of the Pacific, when, off Crescent City on the thir- tieth of July, 1855, the Brother Jonathan carried her human cargo to a resting place beneath the billows. The financial history of these Indian Wars presents considerable of importance to interest the reader. It has been mentioned that the demands of the war of 1853 were paid in full two years later, through the action of General Lane and others. The accounts growing out of the Walker expedition in 1854, " To fight the emi- grants," as some facetious ones have termed it, were paid subse- quent to the War of the Rebellion. The act of Congress which au- thorized their payment, was based upon a previous act apjjroved July 17, 1854, entitled "An act to authorize the Secretary of War to settle and adjust the expens.^s of the Rogue River War [of 1858]," which was extended to cover the case of Captain Walker's company. The claims growing out of the last Indian war achieved quite a history. In the summer of 1856 the matter of these claims was brought before Congress by the Oregon Delegate, General Lane, and being ref«-red to the Committee on Military Affairs, a recommend .u was made favorable to the payment of the ex- penses of the wars in Oregon and Washington, the two sets of claims — arising fi'om the Rogue River and the Yakima wars — be- coming mingled in all Congressional and official reports. In con- sequence of this reconunendation Congi'ess, on the eighteenth of w 470 HISTORY OF WII.KAMKTTK VAIJ.KY, August, passed un act, one of whose provisions is: " Be in enacted^ That the Secretary of War be directed to examine into the amount of expenses necessarily incurred in the suppression of hostilities in the late Indian war in Oregon and Washington by the Territorial (rovernments in the maintenance of the volunteer forces engaged, in- cluding pay of voliuiteers, and he may, if he deem it necessary, direct a commission of three to report these expenses to him," ett\ In consetjuence a commission, consisting of Captain Andrew tl. Smith, previously many times mentioned in the account of the wars, Captain llufus Ingalls, now General, and Lafayette (xrover, of Sa- lem, Oregon, was apjminted t(- make the examination. They began work in October, 18r)H, and after spending more than a year in a careful investigation of these claims, "traveling over the whole field of operations occupied l)y the volunteei's, during hostilities, and becoming thoroughly conversant with the matter," made their report to the Secretary of Wai-. According to their examination the sum of ^4,44V),04lMV^ w.as due iis the expenses on the part of Oregon. The muster-rolls of companies represented an indebted- ness, after deducting stoppages for clothing, etc., of $l,40i>,(i44.r)8; while scrip had been islsued to the extent of $:i,()40,344.H0 in payment of supplies, etc., furnished. This aggregate was exclusive of claims for spoliation by Indians, and included only what were thought to l>e the legitimate expenses of maintaining the volunteer force in the field. The report and acccmipanying doc uments were transmitted to Congress, and on the eighth of Keln'uary, 1H59, a resolution passed the House of Representatives, providing that it should be the duty of the Third Auditor of tli^e Treasury to exam- ine the vouchei-s and pai)ers connected with the subject, and make a report in the December following of the amount due each indi- vidual engaged in the :uilitai'y service of the two Territories during the war. The resoiuton also provided that he should allow the volunteers no higher pay than was recei\-ed by the ofticers and sol- diers of like grade in the regular army, including the extra pay of two dollars per month conferred by act of Congress of 1852 on troops serving on the Pacific Coast; that he was to recognize no company or individual as entitled to pay except such as had been duly called into service by the Territorial authorities; that in au- diting claims for supplies, transportation, etc., he was directed to CAMPAIGNS OF COLONELS, WRIGHT STKPTOE AND SHAW. 477 have a due regard to the number of troops, to their period of ser- vice and to the ))rices which were current at the time and place. On February 7, I860, R. J. Atkinson, Third Auditor, made his re- port. It was an exhaustive and voluminous document, and it re- duced the grand total of the claims of various sorts, acted on by the three commissioners, from $6,011,457.36 to $2,714,908.55, a reduc- tion of about fifty-five per cent. This estimate was taken as a basis for these claims, and by a subsef^uent act of Congress a sum of money to correspond was appropriated to pay them. ^i APPENDIX. The following lists of pioneers who came to Oregon before the territorial government was formed, March 8, 1849, and whose names do not occur in the lists printed on pages 226, 232, 246, 248, 249, 275, 283, 288, 301 and 303, have been gathered from various sources, chiefly from the records of the Qregon Pioneer Association: 1831. Allan, George 1832. Smith, J. H. 1838. Crate, Ed. 1840. Abernethy, Wni. Black, Henry CapleH, ChasiO. a'';l Hezekiah. Cook, Amos. Cosper, .7. I. Bmlth, Alvin T. 1841. Biirnior, Franklin Baum, L. Flett, John 1842. Ekin, R. H. England, William Force, G.C. and Jaw. dirty, Henry Holman, Geo. P. Hutchins, Chas. Lewis, Reuben Moss, S. W. Hhadden, Thos. .1. 1843. Barzerin, Louis Black, George Boyd, L. T. Boyer, Thomas Carson, A. J. Chambers, E. J. Fendall, E. E. Gilmore, S. M. Hatch,U. C.&P.H, Hembree, W. C. Hobson, Richard Holman, D. 8. Kaiser, P. C. Mack, N. P. Payne, Martin Sitton, Natlian K. Smith, B. F. Straight, Hiram A. Wilson, John Woods, J. W. 1844. Brown, Thomtus Burton,J. &H. H. Carliu, John (Uirry, George L. Gerrish, John J. Gilbey, Henry H. Hawley, J. H. Hewitt, D. K. Jeffries, E. Lock, A. N. Nelson C.8. & J.C. Olds, R. Parri8h,S. M.,A.J. and E. E. Ramsdell, Thos. M. Rise, Preston Rowland, G. L. and L. L. Shaw, G. W, & T.C. Smith, Simeon Snowden, S. D. Stillwell. M. D. Stump, C. Terwilliger. James Thorp, E. E. Walker, John Wliite, (;. and J. E. 1846. Baijer. G. H. Bacon, J. M. Bacon, P. A. Bayley, D. T). Barlow, William Bayard, C. C. Blaker, J. H. Bozarth.C.C.undJ.J. Bumim, W. G. Burch, B. F. Caplinger, H.C. and J. C. Cogswell, Jolin Cole, W. D. Comfort, Edwin B. Cooley, Jackson Cornelius, A. H., A. M., G. B., Sam. and T. R. Cosgrove, Hugli Cox, Gideon and P. (Vow, E. .J. Cully. Thomas Davidson, A. F. Davis, Reuben Day, W. P. Delaney, David Dixon, \Vm. F. Doak, A. J. Doley, David R. S. Engle, Sam. Foss, Oo. W. and .Joseph H. 478 APPENDIX. Foiter, John (Jfaiier, Alonzo (jriirriHoii, L. It. Oraiil, Roubt'ii (Irayer, Jacob Hall, B. F. Hamilton, A. R. Hampton, J. D. Hem hive, N. A. HeiulorHon, VV. I Hern, N. Hij.'ginw, W. Hosford, ('. Howland, J. A. Hussov, Al. Ingles, \V. S. Voss, J. H. Walker, C. C. anil Elias Whailey, A. W. Whf-eler, Wm. White, J, S. Wilev, R. E, Willey, R. E. Williams, C. A., J. J. and J. L, 1846. Alhri<rlit, Jolm Allen, J. C. Andei-Hon, Levi Bonnev, B. F. and Jackson, Georj^e W. Bridfrform, D. JoflVies, S. M Johnson, \V. C'aiev Killin, B. Lovens, Thomas Lloyd, A. G. McCoy, Joliii McMillan, J. H. Markliiiin, Alfred Meldnmi, Jolm, J. W.. and J. Moi'fian. K. Morris, .1. ^I. and James M. Newman, Jtilin W. Noiile, Henr\- Nortluii), P. "G. O4)orn, W. T. Parker, Sanmel PcnthuKl, R. Perry, Francis Phillips, John Pollock, Tliomas Polly, H. B. Bridires, J. H. Brown, Alvin ('. Buckingham, H. ('. Byrd, L. A. Camphell, S. L. Carter, Talbert Chandlers, J. W. Church, J. 8. tMark, Jason Ij. Clayton, Jesse {."lozpore, J. H. Collins,F.M. & J.L. Cove, A. 8. Cox, (i. rt. and Jos, Crum, Wm. II. Crump, Turner Currier, J. M. Dunl)ar, R. O. and W. R. Durham, John M. Eliot, William Garrison, Rev. A. E. and John M. M. Pugh, John M. and Guthrie, David N. Porter Hart, Horace Read, Thomas M. Hatton, Mark Rinearsou, J. Ij. and Henderson, Jno. H M. P. J. J. and Robei Rogers, C. and J. W. Hosford, Aceneth Ruge, Thomas Hunsaker, J. T. Ravage, Williaui Jenkins, ttteplien Hcoyfgln. W. A. Johnson, Jacob ScottjPriceandRod- King, W. ney, Scroggm, S. Kirk, Wm. R. lialto, Isaac Shannon, Davis and Lanilier-on, Lemuel Wt'slcy LaiKJctield, A. J. Sheperd, William I-arsen, Andrew Shirley, James Lewis, I). R. Binnnon-<, Archibald Martin, F. Smith, Geo. J), and Miller, Wm. Jenning-" .Sol. Richard Stophens, James B. Stewart, Daniel Stump, David Murch, (Jeo. H. Perkins, Wm, F. Ram.Hby, Maxwell Richanlson, B. M., E. and ^, (.'. Taylor, J. and Wm. Ravage, Jno & M.R. Umphlet, Slanlev Shane, Carlos W. Vaughan, Wm. t. Shelton, Dr. T. W. Shrum, John W. Smith, F.R.&Jas.D. Thomson, R, R. Townsend, David & Thos. Vanbibber, L. Whitaker, Anthony 1847. Allen, G. M.,J.W., R. ('., T. B. Althouse, Samuel Anderson, James Ajiperson, .lolin T. Bailey, John Baker, J.N. &W. II. Beal, Jacob, Jos., and Philip Becks, Jacob ]}ewley, J.F. Bird, John Blair, Prior F. Blanton, Wm. Bon ney, Alzin C. anil (jeo. F. Boston, John Braly, J. C. Brijvgs, Elias it Isaac. Brisl)'nc, John Brisky, John Brown, (ieorge J., Henry &W.C. Brvan, Ed. Jiurch, S. T. Burkhart, S. C. Butler, (lieorge W. Byl)ee, J. F. Carey, (i. W. Carter, C. M. Caslleman, I. J. Caywood, T Chapmsm, William Chattield, W. H. CofHn, S. Coleman, James Cone, G.A.&O.H. Cook, A. P. & A.R. Cox, Joseph, Thos. and Wm. H. Crosby, C. B. Davidson, J. E. and T. L. Davis, Lemuel E.& T. W. Diamond, John Diller, W. H. Dimiek, George W. Downer, J. W. Downing, John Durham, Albert -A. and George H. Elliot, F. N. Eoft", Geo. and J. L. Friendly, J. R. Fudge, W. Geer, Cal. and R. C, Gilbert, Geo. and Riley. Gilborin, A. J. Graves, G. W. Greman, J. W, Grim, J. W. (Uiild, B. C. Hall, L. S. Hibbard, K. L. Hill, Henry Hines, John W. Hodges, D. R. Hubbard, C. Huddlcson, C. M. Hughes, (t. H. and J. '!•. Hulin, Lister Hunsaker, Dan and T. H. Hunt, G. W. name, W. E. ritr, S. W. Jack, R. A. it W. A. Jennings, l-;d. J. J<)lly,Wm.&Wm.B. Johnson, A. L., G. W., H.A., J.C, L and W. W. Jory, H. 8. Keeiie, 1). M. K.ely, J. M. it J. W. Kinzey, Terry W. Kinder, F. P. Kinney, A. W. and Samuel Klum, Charles K. Lande.«s, Felix and George Laughlin, Lee, R. R. and William Lay ton, John Leabo, Jacob Lee, Dr. N. li. Lock, W. S. Long, Edward Luelling, A. (two) McBride, T. A. McCaw, William .Me(.'hrisnian, Win, McClain, E. C. McClaren, James McComas, J. T.(two) McKay, James McKinney, Wm. McHurne, W. H. Martin, Jacob Mathews, S. F. Mattoon, Abel and C. Maxon, S. P. Maxwell, T. O. May, Harney B. Merchant, Andrew and William Merrill, (ieorge and Lyman. Al'PKNDIX. 479 Moyer, Hotiry McMiteith, Thomiis Mttore, M. 'i". Moivlv, .Joliii Parks; J. W. Poarw, A. Pi'ttvjohii, TiewiH Pittciif,'(;r, \V. 1). Pollv, Pftcr Ponjndi', L. H. Port'tT, Joliii 15. Powell, John Prettyinaii, Pl-ico, JaiiR's l{ain water, A. M. Richardson, Mat hew Richie, George Rolierts, Rev. Win. Roth, Charles Rowell, J. M. Saltniarsii, A. Selioll, (i.W., Peter, !'eterB.& W.T. Sport, R. V. Shanihrook, George Sliort, R. V. Smith, Joseph(two), J. T., ^'elson & William. Spores, Jacol), John and J. M. Stanton, A. Stephens, Thomas Stay, Solomon Taylor, Christopher and L. Thompson, Fra A. Tomi)kinH, David D. Torrenee, C. M., I. and W. J. Townsend, J. W. Tapper, O.F.&R.S. Vanl)U)l)er, William Vanj^han, F. G., (i. VV.,and J. F. Walling. A. <;., A. VV.,Jr., &J(J.W. Warren, Henry Watts, F. A. Wheelan, Jason Whitcomb, J. H. Whitney ,Jas.,Robt. and William Wilcox, Carl D. AVilkins, M. Willis, G. W. Wills, R. C. Wilson, Tlionuus Woods, A. O. Young, Dan'l&J.L. Yocum, Jesse 1848. Adams, Br. W. L. Armitage, G. H. Atkinson, Rev. G.H. Hall, Isaac Riisket, (J. J. Rauer, Andrew Real, John Brooke, Ijloyd Branson, B. B. Bristow, S il. Burns, D. M. Callison.J.T.&Robt. Catlin, Cliarles Cleaver, J. W. Clea%'es, Benj. and James F. Conser, Jacob Cox, Solomon (•rooks.B.W.&J.T. Dickens, John Dorris dleorjre P. Eastham, Wni. F. Eggman, F. J. Gibson, L. D. (Joodell, W. N. Greenwood, J. W. Hannu, S. Hendricks, C.i&T.G. Holcomb, Almou and W. L. Hold, Henry C. Kelly, John Kellogg, Joseph Latourette, L. 1). C. Lyman, Horace McAllister, H. Miller, Chris. & J. D. Musgrove, W. H. Patton, W. T. I'orter, Steven and William C. H()l)ertH, A. H. Russell, William Shedd, Franci.i Shelley, Jas. W. and M ichael Starr, Milton L. Trullinger, J. C. Vaudevert, J. J. Watt, Ahio S. Since the preceding pages wei'e printed, there has been discov- ered an old assessment roll, or rather census, of the population of the Willamette valley. Just when it was made is uncertain, hut as it gives the amount of wheat raised in 1842 ])y the Hudson's Bay Company, and contains but two or three names of the immigrants of 1842, it was probably compiled in the fall of that year, before the immigrants had located in the valley. Most of the names in the list are incorrectly spelled, and instead of reproducing the list a summary, giving the correct spelling of names and other points of interest, by Dr. William C. McKay, is given. Came from California in 1885 with Ewing Young — Wm. Mc- Carty, Pierre Stanislaus, Banjainin Williams, Ewing Young, Jos. Gale, John Quannau. Rocky Mountain Tra})pers — Chas. Campo, J. B. Pichette, Francois Barnier, Baptiste DeGean, Antoine Bonne- faut, John LaiTison, Baptiste Ducharen, Gideon Senecal. Retired Hudson's Bay Co. employes — 38. F<)lix Hathaway, ship carpenter, came to in })rig in 1832. Dr. William Bailey, came from California in 188(3; George Gay, same. See page 226. American Immigrants - JefF Brown, 1839 ; Geo. W. LeBreton, in ship Chenomas with Capt. J. n. Couch, in 1842; Charles Roe. in 1840; Sidney Smith, in 1839; # 480 APPENDIX. Adolph Chamberlain, in 1842; Thomas Moison, George Davis, in 1842; Jno. Hofstetter, in 1842. Jean Kaptiste Pairroult, Canadian trapper of H. B. Co. Raised first fruit trees in Oregon, at Davidson's Landing. Came in the Ihnqnm in 1811 — Louis LaBronte, Sr.^ Michel! Latramltoise. Came overland with Wilson Price Hunt's party in 1812 — John B. Duboy, Jo&eph Gervais, Etinne Lucier and son Joseph See page 157. Francois Rivet, came with Lewis and Clarke in 1805 and settled among the Flatheads. Thos. J. Hub- bard, born in Hoboken, N. J., and came with Wyeth in 1834. Jno, Turner, a survivor of the massacre of Smith's party on the U mpqua in 1827. See page 194, where his name should appear with those of Smith and Prior. Pierre J. Uraphraville, an Oregonian, discov- erer of Colville mines in 1 854. The wealth and population of Oregon indicated by this list were as follows: Livinsr south of the Columbia were 250 males and 171 females over 18 years of age, and 397 children, a total of 818. Besides these, ()0 living at the Cowlitz farm are mentioned, but nothing is said of the number at Vancouver. Property con- sisted of 6,770 acres of land inclosed, 33,(>98 bushels of wheat, 18,197 bushels of other grain and potatoes, 2,860 horses, 4,101 head of cattle, 139 head of sheep and 1,975 head of swine. The Hud- son's Bay Co. is separately credited with 10,000 bushels of wheat, 1,000 pounds of butter, 7,000 sheep, 2,000 cows and 2,000 horses. These statistics show that there was much property and population, calling for the organization of the provisional government, which was effected in the spring of 1843. in kI id o, LI a se re li- lt, ad it. i«pp«i^ iWW'iJJ.w,