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JhMJAat/ 6j/ I.Itiley, isto .
i i i ni i t. i i litwa i i i
TRAVELS
ON
AN INLAND VOYAGE
fHHOUGH THlf
S^AW OF NEW.YORK, PENNSYLVANIA, VIHGINJJ.
OHIO, KENTUCKY AND TENNESSEE,
AND TSTHOUOII
THE TERRITORJE^oF INDIANA, LOVISIANAy^
MISSISSIPPI AND NEtV-aULEANS,
■ A
4
PBRFQJIMKB
,1 i»»J • ,
IN,tHETft;AIiS 1807 ANI> 1808;
INCLUDING A TWR OF NEARLY SIX THOUSA
ND MILES.
WITH MAPS AND PLATES.
BY CHRISTIAN SCJIULTZ, JUN, ESQ.
I
»■ .
, IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I.
f|
NEW-YORK :
Printed by Isaac Riley.
isto.
i
■M
-M
DISTRICT OF NEW-YORK, w.
R^,/\'*!'^^^V'^'**'^'^' 'T'"'^ "" the twentieth day of March in
thrtVt e Va twk t .t rili. u" «'•'«'"';'■'."'• '•"'*' '''•P"«ted in .his office
" Te ri^Hey,^J^i"di;na^'t.'^""'"''''ir*? T''"."e»'>ee. and th^gh the
" «. ... I ^ u Indiana, LomsianH, Wigtiss pp and New-Orleana • ner.
copies during the Umes therein mentioned ;" and also t an act entiUed
« 5-"lea.^ni'n"rK ""'*•'' V '"'^ «"^'"«'»' «" ««* for the enco wSt"
auinois ana proprietdm of such copies, dur n«r the times therein mon
graving and etching historical and othef prints." «^'"K'"nK. lb-
CHARLES CLINTON,
Clerk of the District of New-York.
PREFACE.
THE folio rt-ing letters were not originally intended for
the eye of the public, but were written rather as a means
of recreation to the author, and of amusement to his par-
ticular friend. Nor does he now, but with the greatest
diffidence, and after repeated solicitations, consent to their
being made public.
From the earliest information he had acquired respect-
ing the geographical situation of the route he has travelled,
it has always been a favourite object with him, at some time
or other, to undertake this voyage, as well to view the cele-
brated cataracts of Niagara, as to acquire a personal know-
ledge of the country.
Although yet young in life, he has always been accus-
tomed to combine pleasure with profit ; and had not some
land speculations required his presence in that country, in
all probability this voyage had still remained to be per-
formed.
The route is generally known, yet, strange as it may ap-
pear, no correct information could be obtained as to the
distances, mode of travelling, the time required, the ex-
penses incurred, nor of the risks and dangers to be encoun-
■tered. These inquiries have been particularly attended
to ; and the minuteness and fideUty with which they will be
found to be answered, is perhaps the only merit to which
he can lay claim.
The Map of the United States, including the whole of
Louisiana, is intended to shew at one view the principal
rivers and towns nf the interior, with the relative situation
IV
If
ol" the clucf rivfirs, towns and cities on the sca-coa«t. It
is not, there f- re, crowded with names aid boundary lines.
The Maps of tlic rotite from New-York to Pittsl)uigh,
from Piti!<bi'.rjrh to thn mouth of tfie Ohio, and from the
Ohio to the (iulf of Mexico, are all corrected from obser-
vation and experience. Tiic latitudes of most of the prin-
cipal points arc quoted froni actual observutions, a few from
their distances and bcaiir.gs by the compass. The maps
may be considered as more correct than any yet puliUshcd.
The author will not conceal that an additional motive for
eon'-entiny to the publication of these letters, was the peru-
sal of a volume lately ',:i:l'lishf'd, entitled, " Travels in,
" ^mericot by Thomaa Aab^ Jim/." purporting to be a part
of the same rotrte which he has travelled. From a careful
examination of ihis work, wliich is found to abound in mia-
lakesy nnarr/trcacnrutiona and ^cljoniry in almost every page,
I lie author does not hesitate to declare, that in his opinion
the w/tolc is a (oni/iiiaiioti, taken principally from « IVie
" Pittahurgh JVavigator ;"• nor docs he believe that any such
person ever travelled the route pretended to be described.
Out of a hundred instances which might be recited, the
following is selected, us conclusive evidence of the English
ti-avellcr's ignorance of the geography of the river Ohio,
which he pretends to have descended, viz.
The diiy preceding his arrival at Marietta, he « perceived
" a fall in the river, and that the current wore through it
" in the form of a Z. Tlie channel was veiy little broader
" than the Ijout, confined between rocks, the slightest touch
" against which would dash her to pieces. I ordered the
• This aiillior, amonp^ other falsities, infopma us he understood,
vvliile at Pitt.sburj,^h, th:a * work was piejjarirtg for the press, called
the '• PiUsburgh Navig'ator." The trutii is, tJiat liule work had
li'en publislitd nearly two years ; and tlie writer of " Ash's Tra-
vela" must have been in possession of a copy, as the whole isfoiind
inlcnpcrscil tln-o'igh iii'j work, verbativia literatim.
"V t
« men to keep « steady ttroke, not on any account to Abaa.
" tk>n tlu; oiU», or to be uUi-mucI at the noiiC of tJu; flfwd.
« The boat uutantly twjk the finrt suction of Ujc full, in-
« creused b velocity to a jfreat dejjrce, puasexl through all
" the mazes of the channel till she came to the last 4cH£«fit,
« when tumhlinR, tost, and regardless of her helm, shu«pua
" rounfl a»d roimd, and at length shot ahead down the
" stream. Astonishing country ! Here again the hills sub-
« sided, the face of nature smil, d, tin- current difl'used, and
" the river became a perfect calm On looking hack to
" contemplate the dangi r I had just escaped, I could but
" faintly see the foaming s.ngc, or hear the horrid clamour.
" I never experienced a more eventful moment than in the
" passage of that fall." (See page 121.)
There is no tuch fall, nor indeed any other, on any part
of the Ohio above Marietta. This traveller has only made
a trifling mistake of about ninety-aix miles. The " Pitts-
« burgh Navigator," while describing the passage of Le-
tart's Fd<ls, speaks in language which might well deceive
the traveller in hia closet, and afford a favourable opportu-
nity for exercisijig his talents, ' in giving a highly coloured
picture, and magnifying the dangers and horrors of his
situation while descending this fierfiendicitlar fall, which
every boy in the neighbourhood would delight to puss in a
tub.
Although, according to the English traveller's descrip-
tion, in 1806, these falls were found about twenty ^fve miles
above Marietta, yet, in 1807, the author found them where
they have always been situated, that is, seventy-one miles
belo'.:; Marietta.
In cori-ei '.ng these letters for the press, it was found
necessary M, appress a considerable proportion of some of
the originals, M-hich, alUiough acceptable to a friend, miglit
\
VI
not be equally agreeable to the public. Perhaps a more
liberal use of the sponge would still improve the remainder,
yet such as they are, they are now before the public; all
the mem the author can claim for them, is a strict adhe-
rence to the truth, without exaggeration or embellish-
ment.
THE AUTHOR.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
LETTER I.
'^i^any.'„Schen€ctady.,.,Mohawk Rw€r....Freight
....Fort Hunter....Canojoharie....Little Falls....
Locks and CanaL..TolL..Utica, Fort Schuyler
'y^reight.,..DeerJield....miitestown...,Fevijish
in the Mohawk River. . i
LETTER IL
Rome, Fort Stanwicc....Freight....mod Creek....
Locks... .Toll.... Salmon and at hei- fine fish.... A ^
Bear....Fish Creek....Fort Royal, Oneida Lake
....Oneida Indians.... Night fishing on the Lake....
Rott€rdam....Lake in Blossom....Fever and Ague
Seeds... . Onondago River.... Three River Point.
15
LETTER III. ,
Freight to Oswego....Seneca River....Salt Lake....
Curious hypothesis concerning this Lake....Li.
verpooL..Salina....Sait Prorks.... Oswego River
Vlll
wid Falh...,Oswego Town and Fort.... Trade and
Shipping.... Fish plmty. . . 29
LETTER IV.
Lake Ontario.... Storm...,Presque Isle, Upper Can-
ada.... Short of pravismns....Better fare, ..Massa-
sau^o Indians....Fi^h pic ntifiU.,.. Land good....A |
Tavern.... Canadian politics.... Anxious for war....
Opinion of tite port officar. , . 44
..v:^ .• ■' .. .' . ■ . ^ /
.AvvmA'.(1. . , LETTER v. ^
w :\ rv-.^\ .. ■■.,,'
Laice Ontario.... Schooner . Hunter..,, Xork....Expe.
riment to obtain cool water.... Hear the Falls of
Niagara at twenty miles distant.... Light House
....West Niagara....Niagara River.... Canadian
politics andpurtialities....Fort Niagara....Young'$
Torwn.... Freight and passage. - - 52
LETTER VL
Qiieen's 2own...,Lewis Town....More partialities...
Devil's Diving Hole....Anecdote....Tuscarora In-
dians and village....Whirlpool....Description of
the Falls of Niagara, as observed from the Canada
shore...Experiments....Niagara River impassable
between Chip paway Village and the Falls.... Anec-
dot€s....Vapor of the Falls causes diseases in
cattle. - . „ - 58
K
'■*'*'m^
ix
LETTER VII.
Chippawaynilage.., ChippaivnyRwer...Descriptmi
of the Falls from the American side....Rainbow....
Dangerous passage to the bottom of the Falls..,.
The river passable at one spot immediately below
the Falls....Goat Island.... Anecdotes....Visit Goat
Island...Inroads of the Falls.... Indian Accourit.
74
LETTER VIII.
Examination of the Country between Lake Erie
and Lake Ontario....Remarks on the form of the
country, and probable situation of the Falls an-
ciently....Speculations....The waters of Lake
Erie lower, and current stronger, than formerly
....Fort Schlosser Landing....Outlet of Lake
Erie. - . . , 34
LETTER IX.
Freight to Fort Schlosser, or Black Rock... .Rattle-
snakes scarce....Fort Erie....Village....More Ca-
nadian partialities...Anecdote...Fine /j/i...Flocks
of Black >'quirrels....Buffaloe Fdlage....Indian
Council..., Games, , . , 94.
VOL. I. Q
i^»^ »i!!»* « fc .,iB»
.^MmjJhHMI'^Mn
LETTER X.
Lake Erie.,. ..Storm Dangerous navigation
Freight and passage to Presque Isle....Chau^
taughqu Landing and Lake. ...Presque Isle, or
Town of Erie.... Harbour.... Dispute ofthe Penn-
sylvania Population Company.. ..Fort... .General
Anthony Wayne. ...Fort Le Beauf or Water-
ford.... Freight. ...Severe frost in August. ...Le
Beauf Creek. - - - '103
LETTER XL
Lake Le Beauf. ..French Creek,...Meadville..„
Cassavja Creek.... Fort Franklin, or Franklin-
ville.... Alleghany River. ...Toby Creek.... Sandy
Creek.... Mahoning Creek. ...Town of Armstrong
Kiskemanitas River Freeport Buffaloe
Creek. ...A Bear. ...An Alleghany supper.... Wild
Turkeys. . . . Fish. . . . Pittsburgh. . . . Freight and pas-
sage.... Monongahe la jiiver. - - 114
LETTER XIL
Ohio. ...Description of the Boats in use on this Ri-
ver.... Prices. ...Fort M'Litosh, or Beaver.. ..Big
Beaver Creek Georgetown Steubenville.....
Charlestown... Mingo Bottom... Warren... .Wheel-
ing. . . . Pxdtney. . . . Grave Creek. . . . Coal, . , . Freight
and passage. ...Fish.. ..River turbid... .Height of
Freshes Little Muskingiim River Duck
Creek. ...Marietta.. ..Great Muskingum River....
Fort Harmar,... Improved Ferry-boat. 129
LETTER XIII.
Description and plan of the Indian Antiquities found
at Maritetta.... Speculations. - ' . 14G
LETTER XIV.
Excursion.... Lost in the Woods.,.. Favourable issue
....Burros Expedition... .Opinions.. ..Vienna.. ..Lit-
tle Kanawa River ^ and Bellepre....Big Hockhock-
ing River....Belleville....Letart^s Falls.. ..Point
Pleasanty and Great Kanawa River. .. .Galliopo-
lis....Big Sandy River. - - - 160
LETTER XV.
French Grant. ...Great Sciota River... Portsmouth...
Alexandria.. ..Vangeville,... Salt JVorks.... Squir-
rels Adamsburgh Manchester Liberty
Limestone.... Cha7'lestown iugusta.... Columbia
...Little Miami River. ..Cincinnati, Fort JFash-
ingtouy Nexvporty and Licking River, 173
■ff i ^' i^i ii,„
3(11
LETTER XVI.
Great Miami River.. .Lawrenceburgh..,. Big Bone
Lick Creek. ...Kentucky River, Port William.,.,
rrestport.... Floating Mills....Louisville, Falls of
Ohio, Jeffersonville, and Clarksville. 184
LETTER XVIL
Salt River.., West.Point....Ohiopiomingo...Blue Ri.
ver,...Flat Country.... Green River. ...Town of
Henderson, or Red Banks. ...A Bear....jrabash
Rrver....Shawanese Town....Salina Creek....Cu-
rio'usCavern....Cumberland River..., Smith Town
...,Bear chace....Fogs, and falsity of vision on the
Ohio. ...... ^j,5
' ^Si-'L^4k.*M-::..
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• '•4.
TABLE DF DISTANCES.
FIjom New- York to Albany, is
Schenectady, "
Fort Hunt€r,
Canojoharie,
Little Falls,
Ut-ca, Fort Schuyler,
Home, Fort Stanwix,
Wood Creek, in length,
Oneida Lake, in length,
Onondago River, in length,
From Three River Point to
Liverpool,
Salina, salt works,
Oswego River, in length to
Lake Ontario,
Fort Niagara, Lake- Ontario,
Lewistown and Queenstown,
Niagara Falls,
Fort Schlosser,
Chippaway Village,
Black Rock, Lake Erie,
Fort Erie and Village,
Presque Isle and Fort, Lake
Erie
Fort Le Beauf, Waterford,
Mile$
not in-
cluded.
•«*••£!
13
3
18
160
15
25
20
13
46
16
24
30
20
12
7
7
1
22
7
90
14
160
175
200
220
233
279
295
'319
349
369
381
546
553
560
561
583
590
6fi0
694
43 12 N.
43 28 N
43 ION
42 53 N
42 18 N
41 2 N.
75 27 W.
76 SI W.
79 15 W.
78 59 W.
80 8 W.
79 5:^ W.
\
I
XIV
. »
r
Lc Beauf Creek, in length,
French Creek. .
Mcadvillc,
Fort Franklin,
Alleghanv River.
Armstrong,
Pitlsburgli,
. Ohio River.
Beaver Town, Fort M'lntosh,
Georg'etown,
Steubenville,
Gharleslown,
Warren,
Wheeling,
Pultney,
Grave Creek, , i
Middle Island, '
Marietta,
Vienna,
Little Kanawa River, and
Bellepre
Big Hockhocking River.
Belleville,
Letart's Falls,
Point Pleasant, and Great Ka-
nawa River,
Galliopolis,
Big Sandy River,
French Settlement,
Portsmouth, and Great Sciota
River,
Alexandria,
Vangeville, and Salt Creek,
Manchester,
I'imestone,
Charlestown, ■
Augusta,
Columbia, and Little Miam
River,
Cinci'inati,
Great Miami River,
Miles
not in-
eluded.
18
18
''"^^- Jm!. : I"-.
ItOllff.
57
30
85
42
694
roo
757
7«r 41 24 N
30
10
19
7
9
10
7
8
27-
43
9
2
17
3
40
29
5
58
20
18
2!
17
14
6
12
37
f)
24
872
914
944
954
973
980
989
999
1006
1014
1041
1084
1093
1095
1112
1115
1155
1184
1189
1247
1267
1285
1306
1323
1337
1343
1355
40 26 N
40 5 N.
39 25 N
79 50 W.
79 51 W
39 11 N,
80 34 W.
8U9W.
81 36 W.
38 51 N. 81 57 Vf.
38 25'N. 82 28 W.
1392
1398
1422
38 44 N
38 36 N.
39
39
6N
6N.
82 49 W.
83 38 W.
84 18 W,
84 36 W.
XV
24 N. 79 50 W
5 N. 80 34 W.
15-N. 82 28 W.
Lawrenceburgh,
BijjBone Lick Creek,
Port William, and Kentucky
River,
Westport,
Louisville, and Falls of Ohio,
Jeffersonville,
Clarksville,
West Feint, and Salt River,
Blue River,
Anderson's FeriT,
Gi-een River,
Henderson, Red Banks,
Wabash River,
Shawanese Town,
Battery Rocks,
Cave,
Smiilitown, and Cumberland
River,
Tennessee River,
Fort Massack,
Ce(!ar Blufls, and Cherokee
Ti.wn,
Bi(r Chain <.f Rocks,
Mouth of Ohio,
Up the Mississippi.
Grand Chain of Rocks,
Grurd Towers,
Cape Girardeau,
Ticket Isl.md Passage,
St Geimvleve,
Prairie De RocHe,
Fort Chaitres,
Americ.'in Bottom,
Cahokia,
St. Louis,
Mouth of Missouri River,
St. Louis,
Carondelet,
Merrimack Ford,
Bi(r Ri^er,
Old Mines,
Mine J.e Berton,
New Diggings,
Mines of Garberie,
AbttfH
not in
(lulled
18
15
6
15
54
23
7
6
15
45
O
14
14
6
1.5
45
17
7
n
O
1:3
341
Milet.
, Total
I Mtlei.
2
24
30
48
20
2
25
30
72
58
23
46
30
6
7
34
12
12
16
4
25
1422
1424
1448
1478
1526
1546
1548
1573
1603
1675
1733
1755
1801
1831
1837
1814
1878
1890
1902
1918
1922
1947
Lat.
38 39 N.
38 14 N.
Long.
85 2W.
85 29 W.
37 59 N.i87 13 W.
37 17 N.
36 59 N
■ \:
•r
88 rw.
88 45 W.
.IS 27 N. 89 36 W.
n .
xvi
Mine LaMotte,
St. Genevieve,
Piatine Creek,
Kaicle, Fort Chartres, and St
Genevieve,
Mississippi River,
OES':£NDlNO.
From Mouth of Missouri to
St. Louis,
Cahokia, .
Fort Chartres,
St. Genevieve,
New Bourbon and Kaskas-
kias,
Salira Creek, and salt works,
Kaskaskias River,
Picket Island Passage,
Muddy River,
Indian Village,
Cape Girardeau,
Grand Towers,
Grand Chain of Rocks,
Mouth of Ohio,
Fort Jefferson,
Iron Banks,
Chalk Banks
Bayou de She,
New Madrid,
Little Prairie,
Bayou Riviere,
Flour Island,
Upper Chickasaw Bluffs,
Second Chickasaw Bluffs,
Devil's Race Groun^l,
Third Chickasaw Bluffs,
Wolf River,
Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, and
Fort Pickering,
Fort Pike,
Council Island,
St. Francis River,
Settlements,
Bayou, and Old Channel,
White River,
Arkansas River,
not in-
dtided.
341
17
54
40
49
Mlet.
501
14
57
13
3
7
6
24
16
4
10
15
6
15
5
15
5
18
32
33
27
44
11
16
10
32
1
1
3i
32
5
74
6
22 2562
Total
Jiniet.
Lat. Long:
1947
1961
1964
2021
2034
2037
2044
2050
2074
2090
2094
2104
2119
2125
2140
2145
2160
2165
2183
2215
2348
2275
2319
2321
2332
2348
2358
2390
2391
2392
2423
2155
2460
2534
2540
39 18 N.
37 51 N
37 17 N.
89 36 W,
89 28 W.
89 8W.
36 59 N. 88 45 W
36 34 N. 89 20 W
35 36 N. 89 37 W.
35 1 N.
89 54 W.
34 44 N. 90 29 W.
34 IN,
91 4W.
N
-N
JjOt. Long:
39 18 N. 89 36 W,
[37 51 N
89 28 W^
37 17 N. 89 8 W
6 59 N. 88 45 W.
36 34 N. 89 20 W
35 36 N. 89 37 W.
35 1 N.
34 44 N,
34 IN,
89 54 W.
90 29 W-
91 4W.
3EVU
not in-
cluded.
Creek^ right bank.
Out' I, same side.
Grand Lake,
Long Reach,
£n(i of Reach*
Wolf Island,
Old Channel,
Yazoo River,
W.dnut Hills,
Palmvra,
Little Yazoo River,
Grand Gulph,
Bavtui Pierre,
Petit Gulph,
Cole's Creek,
Natchez,
White Cliffs,
Hona C! Uo River,
Loftus' Heights, and Fort
Adams,
Line of Demarcation,
Red River,
Bavon Cliaffalaia,
Bajou Tunica,
Tunica Village,
Point Coupee Chtirch,
Fausse Riviere,
Bayou Crocodile,
Little Cliffs,
Baton Rouge, '
Bayou Manshac,
Bayou Flacquemine,
Manshac Church,
Bayou Fourche, and Church,
Cantrell's Church,
Banna Cara Church,
Rouge Chiu-ch,
New-Orleans,
English Turn,
Fort Placquemines,
Passes of Mississippi,
Fort Balize»
VOL. I.
501
Milet.
501
25
25
58
18
10
80
18
7
12
25
27
1
10
10
23
34
20
27
8
S
10
3
45
10
12
5
2
3
24
15
8
10
22
16
17
18
30
18
Total
Mile*.
Lat.
2562
2587
2612
2670
2688
2698
2778
2796
2803
2815
2840
2867
2868
2878
2888
2911
2945
2965
2992
3000
3005
3015
3018
3063
3073
3085
3090
3092
3095
3119
3134
3142
3152
3174
3190
3207
3225
.3255
3273
Long.
«
32 26 N
90 52 W.
31 32 N. 91 15 W,
31 5 N
31 ON.
31 5 N
91 22 W.
91 37 W.
30 29 N.
91 10 W.
29 57 N.
25 3298
24 3322
20 3342
) 3342
89 55 W.
xvm
Havanna,
Double Head Keys,
Nuith Bahama Shoals,
Off Hatteran,
Off- Sandy Hook,
Milei
not in-
cluded.
MIet.
Total
Mile,.
Lat.
501
334^
320
300
195
53u
350
30
5187
501
50X
iMUff.
15688
i r
i
I
'■^-
TRAVELS.
LETTER I.
^tica, Mohawk River, July 15, 1807.
Dear Friend,
AGREEABLY ,o your request and my p^.
ZZl 'rrT™""' '''"'='''"e. for your amL
ment, the few hasty observmions I have made on
•ny voyage to this place ; yet, as these will neither
beve,j_„ewnor interesting to you, who are equally
well mfor^ed as to the state of improvements thus
tar, 1 shal occasionally introduce such little in-
cidents as may occur on my ^yage, being
«t.sfied with the sincerity of your avowal, tha!
any thmg from me will be acceptable "
You desired me to be particular in describing
the several to,vns and streams I pass on my route
the respective distances between them, the time'
occupied and manner of traveUing from one to
another, as well as an accoum of tlie expenses, risks
and dangers to be incurred in an inland vovage
of the kmd I am now performmg. AH these 1 shall
endeavour to attend to in their proper time and
\ OX • I ♦ -
I
place ; and, should I fail in affording you all the
satisfaction or amusement you may have anticipa-
ted, it will not be from want of any exertion on
my part.
The navigation of the Hudson, from New- York
to Albany, is one hundred and sixty miles, and
so generally known, that you cannot expect any
thing amusing in any account I might attempt
to give you, either of the grandeur o;r elevation of
those highlands through which we pass, or of
the many flourishing towns and villages which
adorn the banks of this majestic river. I shall,
therefore, proceed to those particulars which
you are more anxious to learn.
The passage to Albany generally takes up from
two to five days, and costs from six to ten dollars
for each passenger, including board. The freight
upon bulky merchandise is forty cents a hundred
pounds weight ; but heavy articles from twenty-
five to fifty per cent. less. From Albany, which
lies in latitude 42. 38. N. and 73. 44. W.* to
Schenectady, you have fifteen miles over a very
good turnpike road ; and the freightf over this
portage is sixteen cents a hundred pounds weight.
Many of these waggoners are great rogues, and,
shou' 1 you chance to have occasion for their ser-
* The longitude is always reckoned from London in these
letters.
t Freight and waggon hire are synonymous terms over
«11 the portages.
xertion on
5 terms over
3
vice, it will no. only be well ,0 be ve^ careful,
buthkewise, ,o make your bargain before yoj '
mploy then., or, like me, you will have to 'ZyZ
rattier small for a city ; notwithstanding which I ob
-ved that the inhabitants always mate u^ ; he"
la ter term when speaking of the place. It contains
about four hundred and twenty housA, and is pTeT
santly situated on the south side of tie Moitt
nver, about six miles above the great Cohoel
From Its situation at the commencement of ^e.
tensive inland navigation, whose shores are daiW
ncreasnig i„ wealth and population, tlxcre cai> te
no doubt that, at a period not very far distant
Schenectady will rank as one of the first interior
cities of the United States.
The freight from Schenectady to Utica a di,
tance of one hundred and four miles b^waLL"
scventy.five cents a hundmd weight. The car
nage by land is the same. This is. owing totte
great number of waggons, loaded withproducc
vhic enter the cities of Albany and ScheLctdy,-
"here, having discharged their loads, rather tli
-mrn empty and earn nothing, the; are g ad"
.ake a fa-igh, at the rate of water-cairiage.
*cam, falls mto the Mohawk from the south
SK.e a, a pi,ee called the Mohawk Flats a
^o.t Hunter, about twenty.five miles bovt
Schenectady. Canada Creek is a eon.ideie
lit il
■f i
stream of water, which takes its rise ia a hilly,
broken country, near the headwaters of Black
River : it empties itself into the Mohawk on the
north side, at a place called the. Herkimer Flats.
The Tutconnodach, Coroje, and Lower Canada
Creeks on the north side, and the Canojoharie,
Otsquach, Saguett and Oriskany Creeks on the
south side, arc all small and ti Ifliug- stremus, which
afford but a partial supply to the main river. You
will please to observe, as a general rule in future,
that, in all my references with respect to the rivers
and water-courses, I shall use the terms right and
tej}, as the frequent windings and sudden turns of
the rivers render it almost impossible to give the
true bearings without a constant reference to the
compass.
I have noticed but three different kinds of boats
used in navigating this river. Those called Sche-
nectady boats are generally preferred; arid, will
carry about ten tons burthen when the river is
high ; but when it is low, as at this time, they
will not take more than from three to four ;
they generally advance against the stream at
the rate of from eighteen to twenty or twenty-
five miles a day. These boats are built very
much after the model of our Long Island round-
-bottoui skiffs, but proportionably larger, being
from forty to fifty feet in length, and steered by a
large swing oar of the same length. They have,
likewise, a moveable mast in the middle. When
the wind serves, they set a square-sail and top-sail,
which, at a few miles distance, give them all the
appearance of small square-rigged vessels coming
down before the wind. Our galley, which, I am
just now informed, is called the " Mohawk Regu-
" lator," has gone at the rate of six miles an hour
against the stream; and, during this time, be-
lieve me, nothing can be more charming than
sailing on the Mohawk.
It is not often, however, that a fair wind will serve
for more than three or four miles together, as the
irregular course of the river renders its aid very pre-
carious ; their chief dependence, therefore, is upon
their pike poles. These are generally from eighteen
to twenty-two feet in length, having a sharp pointed
iron, with a socket weighing ten or twelve
pounds affixed to the lower end ; the upper has a
large knob, called a button, mounted upon it, so
that the poleman may press upon it with his whole
weight without endangering his person. This
manner of impelling the boat forward is extremely
laborious, and none but those who have been fJr
some time accustomed to it, can manage these
poles with any kind of advantage. Within the boat
on each side is fixed a plank running fore and
aft, with a number of cross elects nailed upon it,
for the purpose of giving the polemen a sure footing
in hard poling. The men, after setting their poles
against a rock, bank or bottom of the river, de-
i
)
I \i
dining their heads veiy low, place tlie upper cndor
button against the back part of their right or left
shoulders, (according to the side on which they may
be poling,) then fallmg down on their hands and
toes, creep the whole length of the gang-boaids,
and send the boat forward with considerable speed.
The first sight of four men on each side of a boat,
creeping along on their hands and toes, apparently
transfixed by a huge pole, is no small curiosity ;
nor was it, until I had observed their perse-
verance for two or three hundred yards, that I
became satisfied they were not playing some
pranks. From the general practice of this
method, as likewise from my own trials and
observation,^ I am convinced that they have fallen
upon the most powerful way possible to exert their
bodily strength for the purpose requked. The
position, however, was so extremely awkward to
me, that I doubt whether the description I have
attempted will give you an adequate idea of the
procedure. I have met with another kind of boat
on this river, which is called a dorm, or dorem ;
how it is spelt, I know not. The only difference
I could observe in this from tlie former one is,
that it is built sharp at both ends, and, generally,
much larger and stouter. They have likewise flats,'
similar to those you have seen on the Susque-
hanna, but much lighter built, and longer. On
all these they occasionally carry the sails before
mentioned.
r
i
■■■^a...
f*
■InM
)per cndor
ght or left
1 they may-
hands and
ng-boai'ds,
ble speed.
of a boat,
:\pparently
curiosity ;
;ir perse-
is, that I
ng some
of this
rials and
ave fallen
xert their
Id. The
kward to
tn I have
5a of the
I of boat
dorem ;
ifference
r one is,
enerally,
ise flats,
Susque-
2r. On
J before
V
\ ^
I ■
I •
I
<\:
.J
- m ^ y w. .»l. , .^ . ,p^ip
/
of
it
vvi
m\
i
a
3
■a
■i
.\
The Mohawk is by no means dangerotis to as.
cend, on account of the slowness of the boat's pro.
gress; but, as it is full of rocks, stones and shal-
lows, there is some risk in descending it of sta.
vmg the boat; and, at this season, is so low as to
r^quire^t to be dragged by hand over many pla.
ces. The channel in some instances is not more
than eight feet in width, which will barely permit
a boat to pass by rubbing on both sides. This is
sometimes caused by natural or accidental obstruc'
tioas of rocks in. the channel ; but oftener by arti
ficial means. This, which at first view would
appear to be an inconvenience, is p,x)duced by
two lines or ndges of stone, generally constructed
on sandy, gravelly, or stony shallows, in such a
manner as to form an acute angle were they to
meet the extremities of which widen as they extend
up the river ; whUst at the lower end there is just
space enough left to admit the passage of a boat.
The water being thus collected at the widest part
of these ndges, and continually pent up wifhin
narrower limits as it descends, causes a rise at the
passage; so that where the depth was no more
than ei^t inches before, a contrivance of this
kmd will raise it to twelve; and, strange as
it may appear, a boat drawing fifteen inches
will pass through it with safety and eas.. The
cause IS simply this; the boat, being some-
ivhat below the passage, is brought forward with
i
d
i !:
considerable velocity, and the moment it dashes
into tjie passage, its resistance to the current is
such as to cause a swell of four or five inches
more, which affords it an easy passage over the
$hoal.
The Moha'A^ may be considered as being
generally about one hundred yards in width ; its
banks are extremely fertile, and the very appear-
ance of the b^ns would satisfy a traveller that he
v/as passing through a rich and well cultivated
country. The inhabitants are mostly of German
descent, and still, in a great measure, retain
their national prejudices, and consider all who
do not speak their own language either as Yan-
kees or Iris^ers. The Germans of Pennsylvania
generally speak a most corrupt dialect of the Ger-
man language ; yet, when compared with that in
use on the Mohawk, it may justly be styled attic
** elegance." The Saxons are allowed to speak
the purest of any of the Germans, and when I
have been complimented as speaking German
like a Saxon, which has frequendy been the case,
I have felt not a little flattered ; judge, then, how I
have been mortified to be told by ajair Mohawk,
that " I was an outlandish man, or an Irisher, and
*'did not understand their language, although I
♦' had made out to learn a few words."
The German and Herkimer Flats are very fine
tracts of bottom land, and in the highest state of
it dashes
current is
ive inches
; over the
as being
vidth; its
y appear-
er that he
cuhivated
f German
re, retain
all who
r as Yan-
msylvania
ftheGer-
th that in
led attic
to speak
d when I
German
the case,
sp, how I
Mohawk,
isher^ and
Ithough I
very fine
it state of
cultivation ; and, from the great depth of the soil
as well as from logs and trees being frequentlv
found m diggmg for wells, they wen., in all pro-
babihty at some remote period, the bottoms of
lakes. Canojoharie and Little Falls are the only
two towns that lie immediatelv upon the river
throughout the whole distance from Schenectady
o Utica. The former is a scattered village on the
left bank, about forty-five miles from Schenectady •
the latter about thirteen miles farther up, situated
on the right bank, in a rocky and barren country,
of httle value except for milLseats. It consists
at present of thirty houses, and must, in time be
come a very considerable manufacturing place
from the ease and facility with which mills may
be erected. ^
About a quarter of a mile before arriving at the
Falls are two places called the Devil's Hole and
Devil s Oven ; and, from the description I had re
ceived, I expected to find a cavern large enough, at
lea^t, to contain a church-when, lo! on examina-
tion, they appeared to be only small accidental ex
cavations in the side of a rocky mountain, about the
size^^f a common oven, with a very large mouth,
trom.the great number of small excavations that
are continually forming, it is evident that they
have been produced in consequence of a pebble
cliHr'^r'"'? ^^^^dentally lodged in a small
cavity 6f the rocks, where, the force of the ^^ter
VOL. I.
^1
\ ».
-*«\
10
i I' I
,-i
giving it a rotatory motion, the cavity has
grown with everj' overflowing of the river, which,
when high, rushes directly into these holes.
On the approach to the Falls the scenery of the
country experiences a sudden and picturesque
change ; the river becomes contracted to about
one- third its usiijj breadth ; on each side the
mountains rise to a towering height, the sides of
which, although inaccessible, are covered with
lofty trees, which fasten their roots in the fissures
and crevices of the rocks, and firmly maintain their
station in spite of storms and tempests ; while, as
vou advance, the river seems lost in a wilderness
of rocks and precipices. In ascending these Falls
you pass through eight locks into the canal, where
each ton of merchandise pays a toll of two dollars
and twenty-five cents, besides a toll of from one
dollar and fifty cents to two dollars and sixty-two
and a half cents on each boat. This expense is
paid by the captain of the boat. It is, however,
certainly too high, and is generally complained of ;
not that the proprietors receive too great profits
from these works, which, on the contrary, are at
present rather a sinking fund, and must continue
so until the number of boats employed on this
river is increased in a tenfold degree. This ought
to be an object of the first importance with the
comptiny, for the heavy charges paid by the few
that navigate these waters, tend to discourage
others from building boats. The farmers still
li
continue to transport their produce by land in pre-
ference to water, as each has his team, which
will carry one hundred bushels. They generally
go to town once or twice a year, to dispose of
their crops, sec their friends, and look for great
bargains at auctions ; and, when ready to return,
can take back a load as cheap as the boatman who
passes the locks. Besides, they have not only
saved in this respect, but also a charge of one or
two shillmgs a bushel on all they bring ; for it is
generally known that a farmer of this description,
by takinr J^is provisions with him, will not spefld
more than one or two dollars during tlie trip.
The great object of the company, therefore, should
be to encourage the use of boats, and endeavour
to increase theii- number; and, by that means,
divert the land carriage to the river. This nfiver
can be effected while die present mode is persisted
in ; and, were they to lower the toll fifty per cent.
I should still say it was too high. In my opinion,
they seem rather to have calculated upon high tolls
and frw boats ; experience, however, will soon
teach them to consider the subject in a different
light.
The canal, which is four or five miles long, is
a beautiful piece of water, passing through the
flats of the town of Herkimer. It is a valuable
acquisition to those through whose lands it flows ;
and, when once planted with handsome trees,
will be one of the pleasantest situations in this
V,
IS
country. On the left it is joined by Oriskany
Creek, a small stream which passes through a
large and extensive flat of the same name, but
mostly unimproved. It was at this spot the fa-
mous battle was fought by General Herkimer with
the Indians, in which he lost his life. The after-
noon of my arrival at Utica, we encountered a vio-
lent thunder squall, which I should not have no-
ticed to you had not a large tree, immediately op-
posite to us, been struck with lightning and fallen
inlo the river; so that although drowning is
scarcely possible on the Mohawk, yet there is some
risk of being dashed to pieces by the falling of
trees which overhang its banks.
Utica, on the site of Fort Schuyler, is a flou-
rishing vilUge, handsomely situated on the left
bank of the Mohawk; it contains, at present,
about one hundred and sixty houses, the greatest
part of which are painted white, and give it a
neat and lively appearance. Foreign goods are
nearly as cheap here as in New- York, which, I
presume, is owing to the merchants' underselling
each other ; for this, like all other country towns is
overstocked with shop-keepers. Most of the
goods intended for the salt-works are loaded here
in waggons, and sent on over land, a distance (rf
fifty miles. The carriage over this portage is
fifty cents a hundred weight.
Whitestown is also a thriving little village, four
Tniles above Utica ; but, as it stands about half a
IS
mile back from the shore, nothing of it is seen in
the passage up the riv£r. Deerfield lies on the
right bank of the Mohawk immediately opposite
to Utica, and is connected with it by a good
wooden bridge. It is but an inconsiderable vi|.
lage, of eight or ten houses, chiefly inhabited by
very poor people ; nor is it likely ever to rise to
any degree of respectability, as the ground on
which it is situated is subject to be overflowed
whenever there is any considerable rise of the
river.
The Mohawk affbrds the fewest fish of any
stream I have ever yet met with. Angling, you
know, is my favourite sport ; and, as I had promised
myself much gratifliftion from this amusement, I
spared nothing that could render my fishing Jp,
paratus complete ; judge then of my patience and
disappointment, when, after nine day's toiling, day
and night, I at last caught a poor cat fish not
larger than a herring!! I hope, however, in a few
days, to be amply compensated for my disappoint-
ment here, as we shall then be at the head of the
Mohawk, and from thence descend with the waters
flowing into Lake Ontario, which our captain in-
forms me abounds with salmon and other deli-
cious fish ; yet, even here, I perceive, another diffi-
culty presents itself, which is, that nature has been
so bountiful to the salmon of this country, in fur-
nishing them with quantities of delicious food, as
to make them reject the very best tid-bit vou
i
1
14
can affix to your hcok ; so that, unless you arc
expert enough to strike them with a spear, as is
the custom, you are likely to go without. I really
must confess that my feelings seem rather to revolt
at the barbarous and unnatural idea of miu^dering
fish with a large piece of iron^ weighing tlwee or
four pounds, while, at the same time, a little bit
of crooked steel, covered with a fly or worm, and
suspended to a line, would afford me, for hours,
what I should call rational amusement. Such is the
force of habit and prejudice ! The manly attitude
oi the Indian, standing erect in his canoe as he
skims the transparent surface of the lake, grasping
his iron spear with his right hand, warns the
quick-eyed salmon of his ho^e approach — while
we, more humane and refined, conceal ourselves
under the thick foliage of the shady banks, and,
in the guise of friendship, beguile the unwary
tribe to the deceitful hook !
! i }
Yours,
C. S.
iU
IS
LETTER II.
Lake Ontario, Oswego, July 24, 1807.
Dear Friend,
MY last, I think, left me moralizing in conse-
quence of my disappointments in fishing on the
Mohawk : I shall not say another word upon that
subject, for, to be candid, the first " glomus nibble''
1 afterward had, banished all unpleasant ideas re-
"pecting the past.
At Utica I made some little improvements in
our boat, which consisted of an a^vning sufficiently
large to secure us pretty comfortably from the
rain and sun. The passage from Utica to this
place, a distance of one hundred and fourteen
miles, occupied nine days, two of which, however,
were spent at Three River Point in waiting for
me, as I had resolved not to miss the opportunity
of visiting the famous salt-works of Onondago.
The freight to this place is at the rate of one
dollar and twenty-five cents per hundred. The
passage money, if any is charged, is about two
dollars for a hundred miles, finding your own pro-
visions; but, if you furnish a good table, no pas-
16
sage money will be received; and these open-
hearted fellows always seem much pleased to have
gentlemen for passengers.
Rome, which lies in latitude 43. 12. N. knd
75, 27. W. is situated near the head of the Mo-
hawk, sixteen miles above Utica. The entrance
into this village is through a handsome canal
about a mile in length. It is here that the Mo-
hawk is made to contribute a part of its stream
toward filling Wood Creek, which, of itself, is so
low in dry seasons as to be totally insufficient to
float a boat without the aid of the Mohawk.
Rome, fom.orly known as Fort Stanwix, is de-
lightfully situated in an elevated and level country,
commanding an extensive view for about ten miles
around. I'his village consists at present of about
eighty houses ; but it seems quite destitute of every
kind of trade, and rather upon the decline. The only
spirit which I perceived stirring among tiie^ was
that of money digging ; and the old fort betrayed
evident signs of the prevalence of this mania, as it
had literally been turned inside out for the purpose
of discovering concealtd treasure.
In proceeding from the Mohawk through the
canal into Wood Creek, and descending the same,
you pass through another range of locks, five in
number. The toll here is still higher than the
first, being three dollars per ton for goods, and
from one dollar and fifty cents to three dollars and
1
i i T
17 ^
fifty cents extra upon each boat. This charge is
usually paid by the boatman who takes the freight •
but I am informed that it is necessary to come to
an understanding on this point at the time of
making the contract, as this expense is sometimes
thrown upon the shipper.
Wood Creek is a narrow, crooked and sluggish
stream, about twenty.four miles in length, from its
head at Rome to its junction with the Onondaga
River, and about twelve yards wide after passing
through the locks. It winds through a low
swampy tract of country from eight to ten miles in
length, and four or five in breadth. Although
this stream is celebrated for the size, activity and
numbers of its moschetoes, as well as the stag,
nancy of its waters, yet I neither experienced the
annoyance of the one, nor the inconvenience of the
other, although I passed it in the month of July
when both these evils are said to be intolerable'
Just after passing the storehouse, which is situa-
ted below the last lock, a considerably rapid stream
called Canada Creek, unites with Wood Creek
from the right. This is nearly as large as the
former, but not navigable. Immediately opposite
their junction are the remains of Fort Rickey, a
fortress of some consequence during the old In
dian wars ; but at present employed to a better
purpose, being covered with a good orchard.
About a mile farther we passed the site of another
VOL. I.
' N ^
It
old fort called Fort Bull; this is ott the right
bank of the creek. The navigation of Wood Creek
is not attended with any hazard of drowning, oreven
of staving a boat to pieces ; but the sudden turns of
the stream overhung with the trunks and branches
of trees, are not without their dangers, as I ex-
perienced. The boat being under considerable
way, at a sudden bend of the river, we unexpect-
edly discovered a tree, which had been overturned
by some late storm, stretched across the stream,
and supported by its branches in such a manner
as not to touch the water. Our captain imme-
diately perceiving that it would be impossible to
stop the boat in so short a distance, directed every
one to take care of himself, and ran the boat
under a part of the tree of sufficient height to ad-
mit it ; but, as it was much lumbered up a- mid-
ships, several of the articles were swept overboard.
Amongst these were my travelling trunk and
portable desk, containing my money, papers and
apparel. The desk floated along side, but the
trunk, being very heavy, sunk to the level of the
water and stopped against some of the branches.
As it required some time, however, to stop the
boat and go up the stream, the trunk, on being
taken up, was full of water, to the no little injury
of my papers and clothing. The most laughable
circumstance attending this accident was, that on
missing my companion, and looking round for
him, I discovered him in the top of the tree whicli
10
we had passed uhder, whither he had jumped to
avoid being crushed, as he had not time to get
aft where the boat was less lumbered
There is great plenty and a variety of fine fish
m this stream ; and, as we are now provided with
the necessary cooking apparatus, I find, for the
first time, my favourite amusement likely to be
attended with profit. We have already seen se-
veral salmon Jumping, but have not been able to
catch any, except with a silver hook; nor should
we, probably, have so soon been successful in this
way had we not foitunately fallen in with a party
of Oneida Indians, who were returning from fish-
ing, and had two canoes loaded Avith fine salmon.
Several of them weighed thirty pounds each. We
purchased two of the largest for one dollar and
tv enty-five cents.
We stopped the same evening at a settlement a
little distance above the mouth of Wood Creek, in
order to obtain a fresh supply of milk for our c'of<
fee and chocolate. The sun had just set as we
were ascending the bank, when we heard the ciy
of a hog in distress, and, upon approaching the
house, fotlnd it was occasioned by a bear, who
had come upon much the same errand with our-
selves, namely, to get something to eat; but, as
he found no one with whom to make a bargain,
he very deliberately seized a small hog of about
three hundred pounds weight, and marched off
- 1«
1
20
m
n
into the woods. By the time we came to the
house we discovered an old woman, with a frying,
pan in one hand, and a ladle in the other, running
after the robber; but she soon returned, and
informed us tliat "this was the second time
" the darnation devil had visited them within a
" week."
Wood Creek is joined on the right by Fish
Creek, which, with more propriety, might be de-
nominated a river, as it is at least five times as
large as Wood Creek, but navigable for ten miles
only. This stream is much resorted to by the
Oneida Indians, on account of the great quantities
of salmon and other fish which it affords; as,
likewise, from its being favoured with numerous
springs of excellent water, which, in this country,
is considered as a very great luxury.
About a mile and u half below the mouth of
Fish Creek, the collected waters of these two
streams are discharged into the Oneida Lake,
where are still to be seen the remains of Fort
Royal, formerly a post of considerable importance
in checking the roving parties of Indians on this
part of the frontier.
Oneida Lake is a most charming and beputiful
sheet of water, about thirty miles in length, and
five in breadth, and, I believe, affords the best
and greatest variety of fish of any water in the
western part of this state. I have seen salmon,
pike and cat fish taken in this lake from five to
31 ii.
21 '
thirty.five pounds weight, and chub, Oswego bass
and white bass from two to five pounds ; besides
a great variety of smaUer and less esteemed fish.
Eels are found here in the greatest abundance, and
are the finest and largest that ever I saw. They
have an invention for taking them similar to our
eel-pots, but made very large, and requiring no
bait. These are always set in a strong current
either at the inlet or outlet of a lake, or on some
swift part of the stream upon the rivers. Two
ridges of stones are piled up in the manner before
described on the Mohawk river, at the lower end
of which the pot or basket is set. I was present
when one of the baskets, which had been set over
night, was taken up ; it filled two barrels, and the
greater part of the eels weighed from two to three
pounds each. I have been always prejudiced
against eating eels on account of a rancid taste
which I perceived in them; but, being prevailed
upon to taste of these, I must declare that I never
before tasted any fish so delicious, without except-
ing even the salmon. A family who live at the outlet
of this lake, depend almost entirely upon this eel-
fishery for their support ; they salt down about
forty barrels a year, and find a ready sale for them
at ten dollars a barrel.
The Oneida Indians, from whom this lake de-
rives its name, are generally settled in this neigh-
bourhood. We had, occasionally, met with one
or two families of them previously to our arrival
«■
22
at the l:*k€, buthere irfcftiund a collection of about
forty, who were amusing theniselves with shooting
arrows, pitcliing quoits, and throwing large stones.
W© made a stop here for the night, and found
therti all remarkably civil and well disposed.
There is a tolerably good tavern kept at this
place by a Mrs. J—-., and her sister, a young wo-
man, who; you may be assured, display no ordi-
nary degree of courage in dealing out whiskey to
thirty or forty Indians, who generally rendezvous
at this place, especially as there is no other white
settler within sight or call, should any accident
render immediate assistance necessary. I made a
small excursion along the border of this lake, and,
although the shore was low, yet I found a firm,
dry, white sandy beach to walk upon; some other
parts of it, however, I was informed, were low and
swampy. I was much amused in the evening by
a singular illumination upon the lake, which I was
at first wholly unable to account for. The water
at this part of the lake, it seems, is very shallow
for nearly half a mile from the shore, and being
perfectly transparent, and the bottom a white sand,
the smallest object may be readily distinguished.
The Indians have a meihod of taking salmon and
other fish by rfieans of an iron frame fixed in the
bow of the canoe, projecting forward three or four
feet, and ( Ifvated about five ; upon this they kin-
dle a bright fire of pine knots, and while one per-
son sits in the stern with a paddle to impel the
w
23
boat forward, another stands in the bow with a
sharp spear ready to strike the fish who play about
the light. Ten or twelve of these canoes moving
about irregulaily on the lake, on a fine calm
evening, with the reflection of their lights, like so
many lines of fire, extending from each object to
a centre on which you stand, afford a most plea-
smg prospect, and far exceed, in my opinion, the
most brilliant display of artificial fireworks.
In crossing this lake we were fortunate enough
to be favoured with a fair wind, and five hours'
saihng brought us to the outlet, or head of Onon,
daga River. On our passage we had a tolerably
fair view of Rotterdam, situated on the right bank
of the lake, about six miles above the oudet The
country, generally, around the lake, and particu-
larly in the neighbourhood of Rotterdam, has the
character of being unheahhy, although the situa-
tion of the town appeared to me to be sufficiently
elevated. Should the vicinity of these low and
swampy grounds be the only cause of this un
healthyness, I am of opinion that a few hundred
dollars expended, in opening the channel and re.
movmg the bar at the head of the outlet, would
lower the lake so far as to drain off the stagnant
waters, and thus remove the cause. I had an op
portunity of examining the whole length of the
bar by wading across it, and found it composed of
loose stones and gravel, with no more than eighteen
mches of water. Unless, therefore, there should '
(.
24
prove to be a bed of rocks to impede the under-
taking, I am inclined to believe that twenty men,
with the necessary implements, might easily ac-
complish it in the course of a month.
As the wmd would not permit us to stop
at Rotterdam, I can only speak of it from informa-
tion. It is said to contain about thirty houses,
but mostly deserted, on account of what they call
the lake fever, which, I am told, makes its appear-
ance annually. There is an excellent set of mills
built upon a stream called Bruce's Creek, which
passes just below the town; and, although the
country is extremely fertile, yet, for want of set-
tlers to raise grain, they have but little employment.
About four, miles from the outlet w^e passed two
islands on our left, sufficiently high for cuhivation,
and containing about one hundred acres, but des-
titute of inhabitants. We also passed a little spot
called One Tree Island, which serves the naviga-
tors as a land-mark, and, at a distance, has the
appearance of a ship under sail. There are like-
wise two small sandy islands, generally covered with
gulls ; the boatmen sometimes stop here to look
for eggs, which, in the season, are found in con-
siderable plenty. In passing these islands we ran
aground on the top of what appeared to me to be
a sunken island, with a very small flat surface ; it
was an entire rock, not more than seven paces
across ; and, on every side, we found more than
1
as"
thirty feet water, that being the length of the coM
I sounded with.
It 19 astonishing what myriads of small butter.
fl.es covered the whole surface of this lake, which,
.ndeed rather resembled the large fields of a.!
orctard, just spread with the fall of the blossoms.
I tad remarked that, at the head of the lake, one
of the boatmen was directed to fill a keg with wa-
^r before we started. I inquired for what r^.
son, as the Uke was ftesh, and there was no dan.
ttat, at th.s season, « the late wm in blmom, and
not fit to be drank." This I found almost literally
true. The cause is as follows :— The lake is in
a great measure, border •'. with swamps and low
grounds, which produce innumerable swanns of
small butterflies, especially of the white mod,.
These msects cannot fly any great distance without
restuig, and a very light breeze off- shore will pre
vent dieu- regaining the land when once they have
teken wmg; i„ consequence of which, they soon
faU with outspread wings, and cover the lake so
completely as fully to justify the expression of
2 .T^K r "'""'"'■" ^'*°"g'' the water of
the lake, before taken up in a glass, appears to be
perfectly cearand transparent, yet, upon examina-
tvhich the boatmen call/«,,r and ague ,ecds.- but
VOX.. I. » '
26
K#!i
in reality, are the eggs of certain insects. This
inconvenience, however, continues only for sibout
six weeks, when the waters again become pure
and wholesome.
In ckacending the Onondaga River from the
outlet, the land is low on both sides for about
five miles; the right shore then begins gra-
dually to rise and improve in appearance, while
the left still continues low for a considerable
distance further. This is a pleasant, and, in
some pkices, a rapid stream, increasing to the
breadth of one huixlredand twenty -five yards; its
length, according to its meanders from the Oneida
Lake, to its junction with the Seneca and Oswego
Rivers at Three River Point, is twenty miles.
The navigation of this river is somewhat dan-
gerous, on account of several rocky shoab, and
the rapidity of its current ; it, therefore, requires a
particular knowledge of these places, in order to
take a boat down in safety.
Three River Point is most eligibly situated on
Ae left bank, at the confluence of tlie Onondaga,
Seneca and Oswego Rivers. Although no town
is laid out, as this place at present contains but
a single house, yet, I do not hesitate to say, the
time will shortly arrive when it will be the site
of one of the most respectable inland towns in
this ^4rt of the state. This tract lies within the
militar^ township of Cicero ; it belongs to the town,
27
and is at present under lease for six years. The
state would have done well to have reserved this six
hundred acre lot, and had it laid out for a town
on a similar plan to that of Oswego, as it must
always command a great share of trade, for all the
goods bound to or from Oswego must pass by
Three River Point, either in ascending or descend-
ing, exclusive of the whole trade of the Genessee
Country by the Seneca River, as well as the salt
trade to the upper country, which must also pass
this Point on its way to the Mohawk. It has,
likewise, nothing to apprehend from any rivalship
from settlements on either of the two opposite
points, as neither of these possess a sufficient ele-
vation, being subject to be inundated by every rise
of the river.
Upon our arrival at the Point, we found a boat
with thirty.four persons on board, just embarking
on a voyage across the lakes to Sandusky ; where
we heard the Indians were beginning tj be
troublesome. We should have gone on in com-
pany with them, but, finding myself within four-
teen or sixteen miles of the famous salt-works of
Onondaga, I resolved to detain the boui for a
couple of days, until I could have an opportunity
of visiting this natural curiosity of our country. I
accordingly made an offer to our captain, who I
have found very kind and obliging, to pay him six
dollars per day for all the time he sliould lose ; to
m
28
this he not only assented, but likewise offered to
accompany me. After some little trouble I enga-
ged a couple of men with a canoe, and we set out
the same evening, and arrived at the salt-works
about midnight, A description of which shall be
the subject of my next.
Yoiu-s,
C. S.
29
LETtER HI.
Lake Ontario, Oswego, July 26, 1807.
Dear Friend, .
THE town of Salina, the site of these celebrated
Mlt-works, ,s distant from Three River Point
about sixteen miles, by land ; by water, which is
^X '"p'" 'I " "" ""^' ■""-• From
Ihree River Pomt the course is up the Seneca
River fourteen miles, where, turning ,o the left
It passes through a low swampy ci-eek, the outte
of Salt Lake, being about three-quarters of a mile
m length. Salt Lake is a very small sheet of wa
ter, b ing no more than six miles in length and
about one and a half in breadth. The wat^ 1,
deep and transparent, and considered as very good
for drinking, it is also well stocked with ^^n
and a variety of other fine fish. I must not T2
enteitaimngyouwith a curious little story i^spert
.ng this lake, which I find generally circuLeTa^d
almostasgenerallycredited. Our boatmen, amo'g
o*ers asserted and believed that the bottom or
his lake IS a solid bed of salt. " They had h"ard
•hough they could not find bottom yet W
I..
i
30
It
•' dra\\'n up a bottle full of the water so strongly
" impregnated >vith salt as to float an egg or po-
" tato." You may be sure I did not long hesi-
tate about trying the experiment, and, therefore,
engaged them to take me out the next day, when
I should be prepared to put it in execution. Ac-
cordingly, having provided a line and bottle, the
one for sounding, and the other for drawing up a
sample of the salt water, we proceeded to every
part of the lake which they pointed out as being
the deepest, but found nothing, except a rocky,
sandy, or muddy bottom, with from thirty to fifty
feet of water. Despairing at length of finding any
deeper part by their directions, I requested them
to row me to a place which I pointed out to them,
where I sounded for the last time, and found a
rocky bottom with sixtj^-four feet of water. Ha-
ving prepared my bottle in such a manner that I
could withdraw tlie cork when it arrived at the
bottom, I drew it up, and, as I expected, found
the water a little cooler, but not otherwise difterent
from that on the surfiice.
Our two boatmen did not seem inclined to give
up the point yet, and one of them reasoned in this
way — " We must all be convinced that where there
" is salt water there must be salt to make it so ;
" and, as we know that the salt springs rise in the
" marsh on the border of the lake, there must be
" a body of salt underneath ; and, if that is the case,
*' is diere any thing unreasonable in supposing
ii
SI
« that the lake was, originally, a great salt spring,
" issuing out of a solid bed of mineral salt ?"
I then asked him, that granting this to be the
case, how it happened that the water of this great
salt spring was so perfectly fresh ? He was puz-
zled for some time, but at last replied, " the great
" number of fresh brooks and rivulets which dis-
" charge themselves into this lake, contribute so
*^' much larger a supply towards filling it, that the
" salt water is lost in the immensity of the fresh."
I was much pleased with the ingenuity of this
man's reasoning, and dare say you will likewise
give him full credit when you are further informed
that he could neither read nor write.
But to proceed with my narrative : After having
entered the lake, and coasted for four miles along
the left shore, we arrived at Liverpool, or, as it is
sometimes called, New Ireland, a smaU town
wholly occupied in making salt, containing about
twenty wretched hovels. Of its salt trade I shall
speak hereafter. 1 lom Liverpool it is two miles
across the lake, to a small creek of about one-quar-
ter of a mile in length, which leads to the salt-
works of Onondaga.
The town of Salina is situated on a bank
fifty feet above the creek and marsh in front, and
contams about fifty houses, some of which make
a^ respectable appearance. The country imme-
diately around the town appears to be a stifi" barren
clay ; and wood, from the vast consumption of the
~3
! /
'','
f
i\
'■♦%-w_
32
furnaces, has already become scarce. The whole
trade of this village arises from the manufacture of
salt ; nor do I believe there is a single individual
in the town who is not concerned in the trade.
The salt springs are found on the margin of an
extensive marsh, not unlike, in appearance, to the
salt marshes of Hoboken. The furnaces are
generally.placed a little way up the bank, and the
works are supplied by hand and horse pumps. At
present they have about three hundred ketdes at
this place, and at Liverpool one hundred and for-
ty.four ; all these are kept in constant operation,,
both day and night, and produce about two thou-
sand four hundred bushels per day. From the
inexhaustible nature of these springs, and the in-
creasing population and consequent demand for
salt, there can be no doubt but that Salina will be-
come the largest inland town in the state.
To the eye the Onondaga salt appears equal to
that from Turks Island; yet, although it is as
dear and white as the latter, it is found to be from
four to five pounds lighter in the bushel. No
other salt, however, is used in this country, and a
great part of die states of Pennsylvania, Virginia,
Ohio, and Michigan Territory-, as, likewise, the
whole of Upper, and a considerable part of Lower
Canada, are wholly supplied from these works.
I examined the several springs used in manu-
facturing this necessary article of life ; and, though
33
there was a considerable variation in their degrees
of strength, yet I found them all nearly three times
as strong as sea water. I likewise found a most
excellent spring of fresh water in the same place
and within two rods of a very strong salt spring.'
1 noticed, however, that this issued from the sur-
face of a stratum of clay, which lay about six
inches higher than those that were salt. I have
just remarked that there is a considerable difference
in the relative strength of the waters of these
springs ; and I have been informed by the manu-
facturers, that some will require but ninety, while
others take one hundred and twenty gallons of
water to produce one bushel of salt. You will
also readily perceive that the quality of the water
must be very materially affected by every change
of the weather, and, consequently, stronger in a
dry than m a wet season.
Although, in the former part of this letter I
amused you with the conclusion drawn by one 'of
my canoe men, « that the bottom of the lake was
" a bed of salt,'Vyet, I must confess, I perceive no
readier way to solve the difficuhv respecting the
origm of these springs than by supposing them to
pass through a bed of that mineral. Although I
do not recollect a single authenticated fact of mi
neral salt being found in this country, yet we know
that Poland and Germany have mines of it in
abundance, one of which, I recollect, was said tc^
VOL. I. J.
-<?•>.,._.
^
liii}
34
" contain a whole village within its interior, and
" to be inhabited by fifteen hundred men, women
" and children !" But you need not believe this
unless you please.
Altliough Salina, at present, does not employ
more than one-fifth part of that number, yet I will
venture to predict that, in the short period of thirty
years, her population above ground will at least
equal, if not surpass it. It is indeed matter of
astonishment, if we consider that scarce a dozen
years have elapsed since this whole country was
inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians, of whom,
excepting the Oneidas, scarce an individual is to
be seen. TTie price of salt at the works is incre-
dibly low,, being no more than from twenty. five to
thirty. one cents a bushel of fifty-six pounds, or two
dollars and twenty-five cents a barrel containing
five bushels, including the price of the barrel and
inspection fees.
I shall now return to Three River Point, and
continue, my narrative down to the city of Os-
wego. The Onondaga and Seneca Rivers uniting
at this spot, lose their respective names, and
assume that of Oswego, It is from this circum-
stance that this spot has been named the Three
River Point. The navigation of this river is ex.
tremely dangerous, on account of the rapidity of
the current, and the obstructions formed by nu-
merous rocks, which lie hid in the channel. About
five miles below the point our boat very narrowly
%
All
■~*m — ■ — *^
3ff
itcnor, and
len, women
believe this
not employ
, yet I will
Dd of thirty
ill at least
matter of
ce a dozen
Quntry was
, of whom,
adual is to
cs is incre-
mty-five to
ids, or two
containing
barrel and
Point, and
\ty of Os-
ers uniting
ames, and
is circum-
the Three
iver is ex-
rapidity of
ed by nu-
lel. About
^ narrowly
escaped being stove to pieces, by being forced
upon what is called the Pilot Rock. The rapidity
of the current here was so great, that the united
strength and exertions of our whole boat's crew,
nine in number, including ourselves, could not have
prevented the boat from being wrecked, as we had
become exhausted by fatigue, had we not fortu-
nately met with assistance from five boats* crews,
who were coming up the stream empty. These
boats being very narrow, an expert pilot will con-
duct them with great judgment among the rocks ;
but, from their great length, (about sixty feet,)
should the boat happen to strike any thing, or
touch a rock on the bottom, the rapidity of the
current sweeps the stem round with so much vio-
lence, that, should it come in contact with some
projecting rock, as is not unfrequently the case,
the boat is instantly dashed to pieces. The way
of managing a boat on these waters, when she
grounds forward, is to keep her jn her position,
and prevent her from springing with the current.
For that purpose a couple of hands jump over the
bows, and with hand-spikes set the boat back
against the stream, until she regains tlie regular
channel ; but when once she swings in a very
strong current, it is impossible for an ordinary
boat's crew to check her, in which case, if she has
room, and a clear bottom, no evil can result ;
but if, on the contrary, she strikes a rock, ship-
■wreck becomes inevitable. Six miles below the
V»t
36
point you arrive at the fiUls of Onondaga, which,
more properly, should be called the falls of Os-
wego, as they are upon that river. This, however,
I am told is in contradistinction to a very strong
rapid, four or five miles below this, which is called
the Oswego Falls. I had always been led to be-
lieve that what were called the Falls of Onondaga
were nothing more than a mere rapid, tlierefore I
was not a little surprised to find a perpendicu-
lar fall of the whole river for about ten feet, ex-
cepting a narrow channel of about twenty feet wide,
wom by the constant friction of the water. The
breadth of the river at this place is increased to
one hundred and sixty yards. We were delayed
some time at the falls, as the whole cargo was obli-
ged to be unloaded, and transported a mile over
land to the lower landing place. The carriage at
this portage is twelve and a half cents for a barrel
of salt, and one dollar a ton for any kind of mer-
chandise. The freight of salt from Salina down to the
port of Oswego is fixed at eightj'-seven and a half
cents a barrel, including the portage over land. After
the boat Avas unloaded, the captain determined to
descend the foils in his empty boat rather than wait
for the return of the teams to take it round over
land. He urgtd me very strongly to/nake the
descent with him, but as I should not then have
had an opportunity of seeing the boat descend,
nor of making those observations that I could
upon the banks, I declined, and recommended my
If
V V^' -r-V^'-
37
companion for his chief male, but he likewise de-
chned the honour, preferring a walk of twenty mi-
m..es hy land, ,o a flight of two or three by water
The eaptam, and some of his men, d>en descended
.hemselves, and, at the first pitch, nearly one-half of
he boa. disappeared ; all the men IHl do,™, while
the countenance and conduct of the captain be- .
tajed evident stgns of the frolic not being nuite
» »g.^eable as he had expected , and, when we '
^.ved at the ,a.,ding place, we found the boa
half full of water. Havmg repaired .he boat, which
had receded some inju-y in descending the falls
our cargo was soon reloaded, and we continued
our voyage. For a distance of five miles below
the falls there ,s a very strong n,pid, the descent
of whtch ,s probably not less than six or seven
feet m each mile; this continues much the same
unttl yot, amve within one mile of the town, when
you suddenly perceive a .^pid increase of motion,
occasioned by what are ciJIed the falls of Oswego
The town and its Mpping are now in sight: dii
current hu..!es forward almost with the mpiditv of
an arrow ; and, although the water is perfeetiv
cleat- and transparent, tlte bed of the river a smooth
solid rock, and the water so shoal that you fre
quently feel the boat rub against the bottom, yet
you are wafted along with such extreme swifmess
tliat you can scarcely get a glimpse of the bottom
as you ghde oyer it; and, before you can imagine
«, find yourself unexpectedly among the vessels
n
;'V
1^
'^■2
38
at Oswego. I made .everal inquiries concerninjjj
the height of thesr falls or rapids, but vnmt of the
answers I obtained appeared sr cAtravj)gunt as
scarcely to deserve mentioning. Were 1 to hazard
a conjecture, from the few obycrvations I was cna-
bled to make, I should not estimate them at more
than twelve feet for this last mile and a half.
The Western Inland Navigation Company are
bound, by their act of incorporation, to erect locks
at all the falls and obstructions on this route ; but,
in consequence of having expended their funds,
they are unable to proceed with their improve-
ments. The state has already made a purchase of
this stock to a large amount, m order to give aid
to the coippany ; but it appears to be the general
opinion, that unless it should take the wh' c into
its hands, or give the proprietors some further and
more effectual assistance, the establishment must
inevitably fail, or, at least, every thing will be suf-
fered to remain in its present unfinished and ob-
structed state.
The town of Oswego, which is twelve miles dis-
tant from Three River Point, and three hundred
and eighty-one, by water, from New- York, is situa-
ted on the left bank of the river of that name
at the place where it discharges itself into Lake
Ontario, and consists of about thirty dwelling-
houses and stores. This town was regularly laid
out by the state, which reserved a part of the mili-
tary township of Hannibal for this purpose ; but,
x-^'-'**^.
3 jfi>M .^..fU ^vi*. ^
39
at present, it makes a very contemptible appear-
ance from the irregular and confused manner m
which the inhabitants are permitted to build their
houses and store.. Most of these are placed as
suits the convenience or whim of the own. in
the streets or elsewhere, without any regard to the
origmai plan. As the town is quite'small, and
there IS no want of room, the inhabitant, do not
complain of this encroachment at pn sent ; hut it
certainly would be not only for tlieir interest, but
would hkewise add much to the beauty of the
place, were they to observe as much taste anc re-
gTilarity in their buildings as possible. This would
obtain a favourable notice from travellers, and pro-
bably be the means of gairhig setti ts ; whereas
the present appearance of the houses and accom-
modaiions are really despicable.
This town has likewise been made a port of
entry, and, when we arrived, we found here two
American and two British schooners, with a Rritisii
brig, all engaged in transporting salt. Oswego
has no produce or manufacture of its own, but is
wholly dependent on the salt trade for its support.
Ihe country around this place, v^ith veiy few ex-
ceptions, remains still in i state of nati re. The
people of the town are almost entirely indebteri for
their provisions to a supply from other places ex-
ceptmg in the article of fish, of which they have
plenty at their doors. I do not think that Oswego
will soon become of that importance which has
40
. f
ii
generally been supposed, as its sole dependence at
present is upon the storing and shipping of salt,
from thut branch of trade which crosses Lakes
Ontario and Erie ; and upon the small returns of
furs, which are growing less every year. Heavy
articles, such as potash, pork, beef, flour, &c. are
never sent up the Oswego River, on account of
the difficulty of ascending with a loaded boat
against the violence of the current. A market for
those articles must, therefore, be sought for down
the St. Lawrence, until the navigation of the Os-
wego' is rendered more practicable.
Fort Oswego is situated on the right bank of
the river, directly opposite the tOAvn, and is a very
commanding situation. You will recollect this
was one of the several posts within our limits
which was retained by the British contrary to the
treaty The site is high and commanding, and
one of the most delightful spots for a town in the
western country. The banks, indeed, are too high
to admit of an easy ascent for teams and carriages ;
but this might be remedied by gradually winding
along the hill. This eminence presents a very
fine prospect of the whole country around, while
immediately beneath extends the smooth surface
of the lake, which, to the eye, appears boundless
as the ocean. I was so 'much pleased w Ith this
situation, and the prospect it afforded, which was
heightened by the appearance of two vessels at a
I' 'if
41
distance on the Lake, that I could not but antici-
pate the time, when Oswego will become the scene
of all the noise and bustle that characterize alarjje
shipping port ; and this delightful spot the favoured
retreat oi case and elegance.
The British were fully impressed with the ad-
vantageous situation of this fort, and accordingly
spared neither labour nor expense in keeping u in
complete order. Since the surrender of it, how.
ever, to our government, it has been suffered to
go to rum. I eannot say that I admire that policy
which, from a mistaken economy, has suffered
such large and expensive works to become useless
to the nation at so early a period. Not that I
think there is any danger of our country ever fall-
mg into the hands of Great Britain, yet, in case
ot a rupture between the two nations, of which
there is a reasonable probability at the present
moment, how easy would it be for a small force to
take possession of the fort, and, in one night, by
being properly provided, put it in a tenable state,
before imy sufficient number of men could be
brought to dislodge them ? From the facility of
landing, and bringing everything with them, ( ven
to a palisade, an enemy might, in ten days' time
render the wo k so strong as to resist almost any
attack that could be made upon them ; and, as to
a supply of provisions, it requires but six or seven
hours' rowing to pass into Canada, where the yare as
VOL. I. n.
I )
v\
iri
42
abundant as m our own state. Although, at the close
)f the war, or perhaps soo»ier, they would abandon
the fort, yet the evils resulting from an entire stop-
page of that branch of our salt trade, would be an
incalculable evil to the intericMr country, the greater
part of whose inhabitants are supplied with salt
through this channel. This would prove so great
a misfortune that scarcely any expense ought to be
spared in guarding against it. A company of
soldiers would not only be sufficient to protect
these works, but likewise to keep them in repair ;
besides, it ought to be remembered, that the country
for thirty miles around Oswego, is perhaps the
least settled of any of the western part of this state,
so that no considerable force could be immediately
collected in the neighbourhood. The dread of
another Indian war at present occupies the minds
of tlie inhabitants, which, I am informed, has aii-
sen from some threats made use of on the oppo-
site side of the lake, namely, that " they would let
" the Indians loose ;" and, from the account they
give of the numbers and enterprizing spirit of these
savages, they have some just cause for alarm,
especially when they consider that one night may
bring them over from the opposite shore. The
mouth of Oswego River is in latitude 43. 28. N.
and 76. 31. W.
Immediately opposite to the fort, at present in-
eluded in the town plat, are the remains of an old
French fortification ; and about half a mile distant
, at the close
uld abandon
entire atop-
vouki be an
, the greater
d with salt
ove so great
ought to be
company of
t to protect
1 in repair ;
the country
perhaps the
)f this state,
mmediately
lie dread of
s the minds
led, has aii-
n the oppo-
?y would let
ccount they
(irit of these
for alarm,
night may
horc. The
43. 28. N.
43
iiom the town, are likewise to be seen the ruins
of some other ancient fortifications, the founders of
which are long since lost to the memory of the
natives. I am not sufficiently acquainted with the
art of fortification to judge of the utility of works
situated as these are, yet I could observe that they
appeared to be calculated i ather for defence against
the land side than that of the lake.
I am this moment summoned on board— Have,
therefore, barely time to inform you that I have en-
gaged a passage to Niagara, on board of the Ame-
rican schooner Fair American, which is to sail im-
mediately. From thence you may expect hear
agciin from
Yours,
C. S.
< i
present in-
is of an old
mile distant
44
?; I
LETTER IV.
Presque Isle, Upper Canada, July 31, 1807.
Dear Friend,
MY last informed you that I had taken passage
on board of the Fair American, a handsome
schooner, of about eighty tons burthen, fitted with
every convenience that could render a passage
agreeable on the Hudson. We were bound to
Niagara, but head winds, and a heavy sea, com-
pelled us to seek a harbour in his Britannic Ma-
jesty's dominions. We sailed from Oswego on
the twenty-sixth of this month, in company with
two British schooners, who were bound to dif-
ferent ports. There were eight passengers of us
m the cabin, consisting of Mrs. Y. and her sister
on their return from New- York to Niagara, Dr.'
E. and daughter, from Nova Scotia, who were on
a visit to some friends in York, Upper Canada ;
Mr. B. on his return to Presque Isle, in Pennsyl-
vania, from a trip down the Ohio and Mississippi,
where he expected to have found a certain great
diaracter, now at Richmond in Virginia ; Mr. D.
who is about establishing himself as a trader at
45
Chamauque Lake ; and Mr I „ j
» -"S-'h^'r.'^ «^"-"y performed
port; but, on settino- i„, tf ^ '^™g "•«
- we. ;e*erbfcrer sl* f T '^"
ever, which soon appea^H in f""' *"''''' '«'»'■
■he approach of a vZT ^ "*''' '"'"e^'ed
nued to beat for , J rf ' "^'T ""^'^^ «e eonti-
"eased to . fZhZi^'T^ "'''"*'• "''- " "-
he.^ -a ast^" nf^;^„:'f ,™-d -'h a short
Sreeable. P-^viTuTto th r"''™'^'^ *»"
M been .„ch rrTin.^ J^^T ""^- "^
Of the ladies; 4«t ther w. conversation
unable to afford .o each TlT^ *^^ '^ere
wfeh their situation, renuir^ t!T """''™^
been n,uch aecustomedTt ,f^' ' '"^'
rolling of a vessel at sea ye, thf*' '"^ ''«"'''
experienced was so veryXm t^r ' """
gan to feel the necessitv T T ' "^ ' >^ be-
^horttime. SicC:'^:,';:-^-<^eWora
<unately never affects me mo' , ' '"'''''"' f°'-
Our situation bein, hus^'"" •'" "''"•""•
Hging to be set on shore afn' *' '"*'
inning short, we pLmH' "'' P™"'"'""'
endeavour to ;arerCH^,;""'".t-P'ain to
eonsiderable difficulty fceff f!'^"^'"-"-^
We had no sooner Lc"' "' ""^ P'"^-
ner come to an anchor than wr
«
46
hoisted out our boat and landed the ladies, who
in less than half an hour were as sprigbtiy as
ever.
Plaque Isle, so called from the resemblance it
beara tc a place of the same name on Lake Erie,
has lately been made a port of entry, and is the
county town. It contains a custom-house, court-
house and co'juity cleik's office, with several
others, all of Miiich are included in one building,
of but an ordinary appearance, whose owner com-
bmes in himseif the offices of collector, county clerk,
&c.^as well as ithat cf a mag-istrate of the county.
As we were in a foreign port the captain was obli-
ged to enter his vessel and pay the customary fees.
This town is regularly laid out, and, as the price
of a half acre lot in this place is thirty dollars, one
would be inclined to believe that they have calcu-
late upon very rapid improvements. As we were
in a good harbour, and the gale still continued, we
were well satisfied with our situation. One se-
rious difficulty, however occurred ; our appetites
had become so keen since our recovery from sick-
ness, that we had literally devoured every thing
eatable on board, and had not even a sufficiency
left to furnish a dinner ; nor could we procur^i
even a mouthful of provisions, of any kind, at the
only house hi the place. In this dilemma we re-
solved to go in quest of something to eat. The
ladies went to look for blackberries. Dr. E. and
Mr. B. were despatched in a canoe up the bay,
•mm
I^ditea
47
where we had seen a party of the Massasaugo In-
dians fishing, whUe Mr. D. Mr. L. and myself took
our fowling pieces and scoured the woods. After
an abseene of about two hours we all* returned;
the ladies produced about a pint of blackberries,'
the Doctor and his partner brought a sun-dried eel,
^vfcich they had bought of the Indians, while our
party tumbled out of our pockets five or six
ground squirrels, as many wood-peckers, and one
pigeon. A sumptuous entertainment for eight
half-starved mortals. However, by the help of the
sweepings of a flower barrel, we made out to make
what our captain called a " royal stew," of «vhich
no one would, however, eat but he and myself^
and I can assure you I never made a more hearty
meal in my life.
The next morning, at day-break, the captain
set out in the boat, witli some of the crew, in
order to pass over into the Bay of Canty, which
lies about .en miles east of this place, and is well
settled ; and, as he did not expect to return until
the next day, he requested us, in the mean time,
to take care of ourselves. We really now began
to feel rather in an awkward situation, as our appe-
tites were craving, and we had nothing to eat. I
proposed a further division of our company, and
ventured to promise a plentiful dinner, if they
would follow my directions. In pursuance of tliis
plan the ladies were sent, with a lamentable stcry
of our starving condition, to the same house where
> 4
i
• c:>-.
48
we had been so unsuccessful the day before, and,
as they luid " the one thing needful," we did not
despair of their success. Messrs. B. D. and L.
took their 'fowling pieces and went down the bay,
where I had noticed considerable flocks of ducks
flying ; while Dr. E. and myself proceeded up the
bay, provided with the necessary fishinc; apparatus,
in order to try our luck in that sport. At the same
time we despatched two of the men belonging to
the vessel to some mills, at about four miles dis-
tance, in order to procure some flower. After an
absence of about three hours we returned, and
found* the ladies had been more successful than we
had any reason to hope ; they had procured a sup-
ply of butter, bread and milk, and the promise
of some meat. Mr. B. and party had shot seven
large ducks ; while Dr. E. and myself had taken
about seventy fine bass. We had likewise fallen
in with a party of Massasaugo Indians, and given
them to understand that, if they brought fish to
our vessel, which we pointed out to them, we
would give them both money and whiskey, and,
by way of encouragement, gave them a hearty
dram. This had the desired effect, for we had no
occasion, afterwards, to go a fishing, unless for
amusement, for they fumished us with such an
abundance, that we knew not what to do with
them, so that the crew salted up large quantities.
The Indians seemed to pay very little regard to
1
49
money, m dealing with us; liquor was their
chief inducement, and they would give a hundred
weight of fish for a pint of whiskey.
I saw the same method made use of here, for
taking fish, which I have before witnessed upon
the Oneida Lake. Although I did not think this
could afford me any amusement, yet I felt a de-
sire to try the experiment, and accordingly enga-
ged a Canadian to prepare his boat for the evening.
It is indeed astonishing.what quantities of fish may
be taken in this way. The fish appear to be de-
lighted with the sparkling glare thro^vn around
them, and, as the water is perfectly clear and trans-
parent, you may distinguish them at twenty and
thirty yards distance ; nor will they stir if you
paddle immediately over them, unless you 'are
noisy, or make a pass at them; thev then dart a
small distance out of the way, where 'you may ap-
proach them again. We were engaged in this
sport for an hour and a half, during which time
we caught eleven fish, weighing together not less
than two hundred pounds. We saw no salmon in
this bay, but there are pike, maskonangee and
buffaloe fish, which will weigh from five to thirty
pounds. The bass, of which there are varieties
are very abundant, and are from one to three
pounds weight. Eels are likewise found in great
plenty, equal in size and flavour to those of the
Oneida Lake.
VOL. I. «
50
J*
Tlie land around this bay, and for several miles
back, is a rich level country, and, about five miles
from the harbour, there are several considerable set-
tlements. As I was one day strolling through the
woods with my gun, I unexpectedly heard several
voices, and shortly afterwards came upon a very
plain road, which, in a very little time, brought me
to a house, which proved to be a country tavern.
On inquiry, I found this was the main road through
the province, and led to York, the seat of govern-
ment of Upper Canada. Here I found six or
seven plain looking farmers, who were travelling
towards York. Perceiving that I was a stranger,
they inquired to what part of the province I
belonged'? I told them I was a traveller from
New- York to Niagara, but obliged to put into
their harbour on account of bad weather. The
affair of the Chesapeake had but just reached their
ears ; they were very anxious to know whether
I thought it would lead to a war ? I told them I
did not think it would, as I could not believe the
British government would sanction the unwarranta-
ble proceedings of their admiral, and, therefore,
would be ready to make us all the concessions we
could expect. They appeared, and even express-
ed themselves, disappointed, as they hoped that
it would end in a rupture, in which event they
expected to become a part of the United States.
Upon my return to the harbour I had some con-
versation with the officer before mentioned, and,
p.^- ^tf^ ni immm,
veral miles
t five miles
derable set-
hrough the
;ard several
pon a very
brought me
itry tavern,
•ad through
of govern-
md six or
e travelling
a stranger,
province I
Lveller from
to put into
ther. The
;ached their
>vv whether
told them I
believe the
Luivvarranta-
1, therefore,
cessions we
en express-
hoped that
event they
ed States.
I some con-
tioned, and,
51
among oUier things, inquired what dependence the
British government could place upon their provin-
cial militia ? His answer was, " that, as they had
" almost wholly emigrated from the United States,
" the Canadian government did not place any con-
" jidence in them."
Our captain having returned, with a sufficient
stock of provisions, bread excepted, he determines
to weigh anchor to-morrow morning, and proceed
on the voyage to Niagara ; from whence you may
expect to hear from me again.
Yours,
C. S.
T-i
"X-.^* XN- A
5'2
I '
m
LETTER V.
Fort Niagara, Lake Ontario, August 4, 1807.
Dear Friend,
THE day after we left Presque Isle we spoke
the British schooner Hunter, bound to York. This
place, which you will find laid down on most of our
old maps by the name of Toranto, is immediately
opposite to the River Niagara. It is said to be the
best of any harbour on the lake, and contains
about two hundred houses. As two of our pas-
sengers. Dr. E. and his daughter, were bound to
that port, they embraced the present opportunity
of shortening their voyage.
The meeting of these two vessels afforded me
much amusement, and for a moment made
me forget that I was only sailing upon a fresh
water pond, as all the ceremony usual upon meet-
ing on the Atlantic was practised upon this occa-
sion.
The wind having been tolerably free since we
left our port, we flattered ourselves with a conti-
nuance of it, which would have brought us to our
desired harbour by evening ; but we were once
^#".
-:"*■ 9*'-^mw--
SsatW^Bt^
53
o'tiock in
y one of th
more disaj pointed, for, about tl
the afternoon, we were assai ,^ ,,„^ „^ ,„
severest thunder storms that I ver knew ; an^i
for half an hour, were obliged to .and all our sail,
after which i{ cleared awa) le.ving us without J
breath of wind.
The lake, at this time, being perfectl)- cal md
smooth, and, from the information of .he ca^.tain
the place where we lay as deep as any part of it, I
was induced to try the experiment of drawing up
some water from a depth of forty or fifty fathom,
which I had been told would be found re-
markably cool, and more agreeable than the finest
spring water. It being the warmest season of the
year, and this day particularly hot, I thought a
supply of cool water would be a most desirable
acquisition. I accordingly prepared a line of forty
fathom, and, having secured the bottle in such a
manner that I could withdraw the cork after it had
descended the length of my line, drew up a bottle
full of the water from that depth, which I found
very cool. Upon applying to it Fiu-enheit's ther-
mometer, I found it fell to S:!>^, and, immediately
after, drawing up a bucket full from the surface
and applyiniv the thermometer to it, it continued
to rise until it rested at 68- ; a difference of fifteen
degrees.
The wind continuing Hght and baffling during
the night, we made bat very little progress toward
our port, and, at sunrise, the wind came directly
i -II
•^
'"^■m.:
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
1.25
■so ""^■"
2.5
6'
2.2
2.0
i.4 III 1.6
<S^ >/£^
-y.
>r^
^,
^^W/
d^.
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
»m
C>
^
,\
'^
\\
'fv
^>. ' ^^
rv
'^^
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEPSTER.N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
54
I
Hh
W
a-head. Before the rising of the wind, as I was on
deck, I could very plainly distinguish the hollow
munnuring of the Falls of Niagara, although
not less than twenty miles distant. As soon as the
wind began to breeze, however, the sound was
lost, nor did I hear it again until I landed at this
place. The roar of these falls can be heard at any
considerable distance only during a perfect calm,
and when a light current of air comes from the
direction of the falls ; when, I am told, it has been
heard at a distance of forty miles across the lake.
Having been buffeted about all that day in sight
of our port, we at length gained the harbour a lit-
tle after dark, and landed at the American garrison,
where we slept that night, and the next morning
passed over to Newark, on the British side of the
river.
The town cf Newark, or, as it is frequently
called. West Niagara, to distinguish it from East
Niagara, on the American side, lies on the right
side of the river us you enter it from the lake ; it is
pleasantly situated, and makes a handsome appear-
ance from the water, and contains about two him-
dred houses. The British have erected a conve-
nient light- house on the point just below the town,
and directly opposite the American fort. The
British fort is a mile above the town ; the garri-
son at present consists of two hundred mei: ; the
works are said to be strong, and to command those
of the Americans. They have been very busy
il
55
ever since the arrival of the news of the attack on
the Chesapeake frigate; since which they have
opened two new embrasures, which bear upon
the American garrison. They have, likewise,
a full band of musicians attached to the gar-
rison, for the honour of his majesty's arms, and
the entertainment of his soldiers, who, notwith-
stunding this temptation to remain, never suffer an
opportunity of escaping to pass unimproved.
The Niagara River is three-quarters of a mile
in breadth ; it affords plenty of excellent fish, and
its current is at the rate of four miles an hour.
There were three British schooners lying at the
King's yard, when we arrived, two of which sailed
the next morning. The greater part of the in-
habitants of this town are Americans, and as
warmly attached to our government as our own
citizens. They never seek to disguise their sen-
timents in public, but express themselves with as
much freedom as you would do at the Theatre
or Tontine Coffee-House. I was at a public house
where eigiit or ten of the inhabitants were collected
around a billiard table ; the attack upon the Che-
sapeake was the topic of conversation, and one
gendeman observed, " if congress will only send
" us a flag, and a proclamation declaring that who-
" ever is found in arms against the United States
"shall forfeit his lands, we will fight ourselves
" free witliout any expense to diem."
) ■
/
)
1
'^ ;^1
56
The American garrison, which at present con-
sisis of no more than sixty men, commanded by
Capt. L. are daily engaged in strengthening the
works of their fort, ahhough no orders from our
government have been received to that purpose ;
yet, in consequence of the unpleasant state of
our affairs, a double guard has been set, and
stricter discipline established.
I had expected to find a considerable town
around this fort, and, therefore, was not a litde
disappointed when I saw not even the shadow of
one. About a mile above there is a new settle-
ment laid out, called Young's Town, which at
present consists of no more than five or six
houses. About a quarter of a mile above Young's
Town is an elevated situation, whi:h will admit
of a fortification being constructed sufficiently high
to command the British fort, which is immediately
opposite to it. This, however, must be done in
time of peace, as it cannot be expected that, when
it is in'their power to prevent it, they would, du-
ring a wtu-, suffer a work to be erected which,
eventually, would dislodge them from their pre-
sent position.
I flattered myself that, before this time, I should
have had a peep at the Falls of Niagara, and been
enabled to have stiid a word or two respecting
them ; but I find myself still seven miles further
off than I expected, from the accounts of Win-
1
■^,
resent con.
tnanded by
hening the
i from- our
t purpose ;
It state of
\ set, and
'able town
lot a little
shadow of
lew settie-
which at
/e or six
i Young's
kvill admit
lently high
imediately
)e done in
;hat, when
^ould, du-
^d which,
their pre-
, I should
and been
especting
es further
of Win-
57
terbotham and Morse, who both represent the
fails as being but eight miles from the lake,
whereas they are not less than fifteen. The mouth
of Niagara River lies in latitude 43. 10. N. and
79. 15. W.
As the vessel I arrived in is to go to Lewis
Town, which is eight miles from this, and a fair
wind inviting me, I shall continue on board.
Yours,
c. a
p. S. The distance from Oswego is one hun-
dred and sixty-five miles, and from New- York, by
water, five hundred and forty-six. The passage
from Oswego to this place is six dollars for a
cabin passenger, including board. The freight of
a barrel of salt is sixty-twoand a half cents ; mer-
chandise at the rate of one dollar a barrel, avera-
ging fifty cents to a hundred weight. Salt is a
cash article, and is said to be a lawful tender
throughout the western country.
c. a
VOL. y.
N
[J
58
'f :
LETTER VI.
%
Chippaway, Upper Canada, Atigmt 6, 1807.
Dear Friend,
FROM Niagara we proceeded up the river to
Lewis Town, on the left bank, a new settlcnjent of
about a dozen houses, so called in honour of his ex
excellency Governor Lewis ; but, as his sun of glo-
ry has set, the inhabitants talk of petitioning the le-
gislaiure for leave to change its name ! Immediately
opposite to it lies Queen's Town, a village of Up-
per Canada, containing about a hundred houses,
and a small garrison of twenty-eight men. Both
these towns are situated at the head of the naviga-
tion of Niagara River, and each has a carrying place
round the foils ; that on the American side, how-
ever, is the best, and two miles the shortest. The
freight and passage are the same, whether you
land here or at Niagara.
The rapids commence about a quarter of a
mile above these towns, and continue with increa-
sing and irresistible force for nearly eight miles,
up to the foot of the falls.
ust 6, 1807.
59
The State of New- York has granted the exclu-
sive right to Porter, Burton & Co. for a term of
years, of the site of old Fort Schlosser, which is
the landing place on the American side, immediate-
\y abovt the falls, upon condition that thty should
build store-houses at Lewis Town, Fort Schlosser
and Black Rock, on Lake Erie, which they have
done. The portage for salt and other articles was
formerly principally upon the British side; but, since
the present arrangement, the whole of the ponage
is on the American side. Add to this, that there
is now much greater security in transporting goods
dian formerly, as this company are bound not only
to have all perishable articles housed and stored,
but are even answerable for the safe delivery of
whatever is committed to their care. The portage
is thirty, seven and a half cents a barrel to Fort
Schlosser, and merchandii. . at the rate of twenty,
five cents per hundred. The distance is seven
miles.
I spent part of a morning at Queen's Town,
where the only topic of conversation was war. The
sam* sentiments prevailed there as at Niagara and
Pr. .|ue Isle, namely, a determined partiality to-
wards the United States, and a decided and almost
avowed hostility to the British government.
On your way to the falls, and about four miles
below them, on the American side, is a very cu-
rious place, called the Devil's Diving Hole, which
is nearly one hundred feet deep ; the edge of it is
♦ ^■41 -f^''
^i^l^-^.
60
so very near the road that they have taken the pre-
caution to cut down some trees, so as to form a
kind of l)arricado, in order to prevent cattle at
strangers from falling into it. This hole, as it is
called, is, more properly speaking, the narrow ex-
tremity of a considerable ravine, which has, at
some remote period, been formed in the rock ; it
shelves off as it descends towards the river, and is
in length about two hundred yards from the road
to the river. The top is so overgrown with
bushes that a hasty view would induce many to
suppose it to be really a hole ; but a closer exami-
nation sooii leads the eye along the windings of
its courses, and discovers a very considerable
breadth at no great distance. A hemlock tree,
firmly rooted at the bottom, stretches its top al-
most to the surface, and is so conveniently fitted
to the hole or opening, that you have only to de-
scend five or six feet, when its branches afford
you a safe and easy step-ladder quite to the bot-
tom, where you will find a copious spring of ex-
cellent water to refresh yourself.
They relate an occurrence which is said to have
taken place at this spot during the French wars ;
the circumstances are as follows : " A British de-
tachment being pursued by a superior French
force, were hemmed in in such a manner that
" their retreat to the road was cut off, and tiieir es-
'* cape effectually prevented by this ravine ; seeing
" their situation irretrievable, they laid down their
((
((
•'1
.^1
'* arms, and surrendered themselves prisoners of
war ; notwithstanding which, the French, with
" charged bayonets, rushed upon them, and prr-
cipitated the whole party down this precipe,
where they aU perished except one, whose Ufe
' was preserved by falling on some of his com-
" rades."
On leaving Lewis Town, at about the distance
of a m,ie, ,s a very considerable hill, from the top
ot which IS seen an immense tract of fine level
land, stretching through the Genessee Country on
the east, through that part of Upper Canada which
hes along Lake Ontario to the west, and even be
yond the lake towards the north. The country to
the south, although so obstructed with timber as
to prevent a view to any great distance, I am in-
formed continues level as far as that part of Lake
Erie which forms the division line of the States
of New- York and Pennsylvania.
The village of the Tuscaroras is situated about
three miles to the east of this hill. These Indians
are under the pastoral care of the Rev. Elkanah
Holmes, who was absent on a journey to Albany
which prevented me from obtaining all the infor'
mation I expected. This tribe is already in a
great measure civilized, having a number of trades
and improvements among them; and some of
them have become rich and substantial farmers
One of the tribe informed me that they consisted
at present of eighty men.
V V-
¥
}■'
I'i
•y «^%,»*«^^.
62
Two miles below the falls is a very singular
whirlpool, which is caused by an abrupt turn of the
river to the right ; the current is so violent as in
some measure to shoot past the opening into a large
basin directly in front of it, where it acquires that
rotatory motion which has given it the name of the
whirlpool. The greater part of the water collected
in this eddy, must pass off underneath, as is evi-
dent from the depression in the middle of the cir-
cle, which has the appearance of water in a huge
funnel. Ti ees of one hundred feet in length, with
a great part of their branches, are here frequently
seen spinning round, until, by constant friction,
or coming in contact with each other, they are at
length broken to pieces. Sometimes they are
drawn under and disappear for some minutes, when
they again show themselves above the surface, and
continue the same motion as before ; while at
other times they disappear altogether. The whole
of this river, from the foot of the falls to near
Lewis Town, is in a state of the most violent agita-
tion, dashing its foaming billows ten or twelve feet
high, which, when viewed from its lofty banks of
solid rock, about two hundred feet in height, give
it more the appearance of a river of milk than of
Avater.
The Falls of Niagara are certainly the greatest
natural curiosity that I have ever seen. I have
read different accounts, and examined many en-
gi-avings and puintirigs, but all fall so far short of
'"?
63
reality that the resemblance is not even as the sha
dow ,o the substance. Indeed . do not thinT ,t
■n the power of either the pen or the pencil to do
just.ce to a subject so sublime as this
From what 1 have just said, I would gladly
™ myself of an excuse for passing over the'suT
ot of ttT ', "r" *"' """'" "" » — -
one of the articles of our treaty, I find myself un-
der the necessity of sending you sometJr.g.
Figure to yourself the first collection of these
wate... at a distance of upw.Ms of two thou^nd
m,les, passmg through the Lake of the Woods
Ramy Lake and seveml smaller, and at Ch
ftl hng .nto Lake Superior, ti,e Meditern,neZf
hundred miles m circumference, and sunnlied
by more than thirty considerabk rivers t^m
thence contmutng its cou^e into Lake Hurr
2eL The "■"" '" ^'^™™f--- -»-:
meetmg the immense collection of waters flow
ng from the south west through L ,ke Michigal
»t.ll larger than Lake Huron, i, continue i"s
eourse through Lake St. Clair into Lake Er
which IS also nearly eight hundred miles in circuit •
from thence, with a rapid current, passing do™
fte Niagara River to the frontier of "what may b"
ealled the upper coumry, with astonishing 1„
deur, ,, there dsicharges this immense ujy "f
'rater down a peq^endicular precipice of nearly
t
i ■
\
'\
. il
/£d tt . /r^' ^ / ^° hundred feet, which forms the cdebrated cata-
V--' Hract of Niagara.
, \ 1'hc Canada shore aJFords the most satisfactory
I view of these fells, as the greatest body of water
descends upon that side. The American, how-
ever, is not wkhout its peculiar beauiies.
That part of the Canada shore, which presents
a full view of the fall's, is what is called the Table
Rock, which is the nearest point of approach widi
safety, as it is just upon the margin of the great
sheet of falling water. From this spot you have
a fiair view of thdVhole fall, rushing with such in-
credible swiftness over the precipice to the un-
* fathomable abyss beneath, that, when you first fix
your eye upon the descending mass, you instinctive-
ly make an inv61untary retreat of a step or two, as
if fearful of being overwhelmed in the vast descent
of waters. Immediately before you lies Goat
Island, which divides the falls, and does not appear
to the eye mwe than a stone's throw; but, on
making the trial, it affords much surprise to find
that, instead of approaching near the island, it falls
almost as it were under your feet, not even reach-
iiiig to the margin or edge of the waters below. I
was likewise much disappointed to find the noise
far less than I had anticipated ; and, upon men-
tioning the circumstance to our guide, lie inform-
ed nie that I would perceive the diflference after
having visited them from below.
1
I A ^ ■
x"^
65
After having satisfied ourselves with the prcseM
view of these falls, and conformed to the cu.lom
of the place, by engraving our names on a rock,
we proceeded to the place leading to the bottom,
for which purpose I had understood there was a
convenient ladder ; but, upon examination, found
It so old and crazy as almost to make me give
over the attempt. You will perhaps excuse my
tirn.d,ty,^when you are informed that this ladder,
vvhich is eighty feet in length, is placed in a perpen-
dicular direction over sharp and cragged rocks; and
Its bcmg spli< 1 and bound together in several
P aces with grape vines, did not tend to lessen the
111 opinion I had already conceived respecting
its sufficiency. However, there was no choice ; our
guide, being accustomed to the descent, had al.
ready disappeared. I endeavoured to prevail upon
Mr. I,, to lead the way, but to no purpose ; « he
did not think it would pay for the trouble ; and
I' as for his part, he had seen as much as he cared
tor. ' I was at length under the necessity' of de-
scending alone, and had already gone about half the'
vvay, when I found the poor ladder, by^ some acci-
dent or other, had lost four of its rounds ; this cir-
cumstance, added to its constant tremulous motion
did not render my situation a whit more plea-
sing ; so making one more effort to reach the yet
distant step, and finding it impossible, withom
sliding down the side of the ladder, and recollect-
mg at die same moment tliat I could not slide
VOL. I. ,
/
■t >■
• }
\
>
i\
IW0^ ■4
66
«»f,
up again, I determined to ascend, and wait until I
could provide a rope to support myself with. Ha-
ving at length procured one from a neighbouring
house, I descended, without much difficulty, to
the bottom of the ladder. The remaining height
is comparatively easy ; but, winding over sharp and
rugged fragments of rocks, it requires some cau-
tion and a sure foot to avoid a fall, which, proba-
bly, would be rttended with some serious acci-
dent.
This, ladder is placed about half a mile below
the falls, the whole c" which distance, after de-
scending the ladder, you have to walk over sharp
pointed fragments of rocks, which occasionally
break off from the projecting precipices above, par-
ticularly towards spring, when the thaws com-
mence. Our guide pointed out to us a huge mass
which had fallen since he was here last, which was
very evident, as the fresh earth and leaves still ad-
hered to the fragments in many places. In ap-
proaching the falls from these lower regions, you
soon perceive the vast difference between the noise
here and above ; and although it may l^e said that
you sec the falls from above, yet it certainly is be-
low where you hear them. From above you indeed
hear a great roaring noise, yet it has the resemblance
of being at some considerable distance ; but, when
once you approach from below, your ears seem
gradually to lose all sense oi hearing, and for some
minutes you are doubtful whether you really pos--
sess that faculty or not. The first involuntary mo-
nous acci-
67
tion of the eye, after taking a ha&ty view of the
falling sheet, and the violent agitation of the re-
bounding waters, as you approach the falls, is to
trace the excavated and projecting point of the
Table Rock, upon which you stood above. You
halt— your eye roves wildly over the scene be-
fore you—your hair becomes erect, and a sudden
chill seems to pervade the whole body, when you
reflect that your very existence should, even for
a moment, have rested upon the slender shell
of what now appears to be a ^rm6/m^ excavated
rock, threatening almost instantaneous precipitation
into the dreadful abyss below ! Such were the
impressions made upon my mind at the moment;
and, even now, the recital of them seems almost to
realize the imaginary danger.
I was now at the bottom of the falls, and deter,
mined minutely to examine the truth of all that I had
read and heard respecting them ; amongst other
thmgs was the practicability of passing « if not
" through, at least to some considerable distance
" between, the falling sheet and the rocks." The
facility of doing this, from the various descrip-
tions I had read, as likewise from die assertion of
several gentlemen who had made the experiment,
had so for prepossessed my mind i.n favour of its
practicability, that the attempt had nearly cost
me my life. Being full of this assurance I ad-
vanced behind the fall, or rather behind the mar-
gin of the falling mass, when, on a sudden, I found
a difficulty of respiration. The attack was slight,
68
I -f
but unexpected. I retreated a step or two, but
finally persuaded myself it was nothing more .than
an involuntary precaution, which my timidity had
inspired. I accordingly advanced, but cautiously,
to the same spot, where I halted for a moment,
and found my respiration easy, which again con-
vinced me that I was mistaken. I therefore mo-
ved slowly forwardj and had, as near as I can re-
collect, advanced three or four steps, when I was
a second time attacked so severely as nearly to
deprive me of my senses. I retreated a few paces,
and, lest I should become giddy, and fall into the
abyss beneath, set myself down on the wet rock,
where, in a few seconds, I discovered I had lost
my hat, which I perceived lying about five or six
paces from me. One moment's reflection, how-
ever, convinced me of the imprudence of a third
attempt ; I therefore retreated a few steps more in
order to make my future experiments with less
personal danger.
Finding myself, therefore, in a place of security,
I took up a stone weighing one or two pounds
and threw it with all my strength between the
sheet of falling water and the rocks; it fell
about forty feet from where I stood, as if it had
there met something to oppose its fardier pro-
gress. I repeated the experiment above a dozen
times, and always found the same result. Larger
stones I could cast in any other direction to a distance
of eighty and one hundred feet ; but immediately
behind the fiills, about thirty or forty feet, was the
79
greatest distance I could cast one, beyond the
place I had advanced ; from whence I conclude
that the co.npression of air between the falls and
rocks is so great that ih living creature ever has,
or ever can pass betwixt them. It is impossi-
ble for me to describe to you accurately how
I felt when I was attacked ; for, to confess the
truth, I was too much frightened at the moment
to form any idea not immediately connected with
my own preservation. I am wholly at a loss
whether or not it wasjn reality a difficulty of
breathing which prevented my advancing The
strongest impression upon my'mind is, that I felt
something^ke a blow in my face, without, how-
ever, leaving any marks of violence ; but how or
in what manner I lost my hat I was not sensible,
but believe it must have been by a sudden blast
of wind. Immediately below the falls are several
small eddies, where there is excellent fishing ; but
tlie difficulty of ascending and descending is too
great to compensate an ordinary sportsman. I
should not, however, have neglected this oppo'rtu-
nity had I been provided with the necessary ap.
paratus ; but, as that happened not to be the case
I contented myself with clambering over the rockl
along tile shore, frequently amusing myself with
the many curious pieces of timber found hereaiid
there, cast up by a higher water, and deposited as it
were for samples of the forms and varieties which
are continually ground in the water xvorfa of Nia-
gara.
!'•*
) '
I
■I
^^1
s -
70
l\-J.
Having spent the greatest part of the day in ex-
amining this wild and delightful scene, we set
down upon an isolated rock and refreshed our-
selves with a bottle of wine and some crackers
and cheese ; after which we took our course to-
wards the ladder, and, by the time we reached
it, the wine had operated so powerfully as to
render the use of the rope for ascending en-
tirely unnecessary. Indeed, had there not been a
sing] » round in the ladder, I believe we should
all have ascended with less difficulty than we came
down.
But to proceed : The current of the Niagara
Rivei begins to grow very strong immediately be-
low Chippaway village, which is something more
than two miles above the falls ; so that, in order to
pass over in safety, it is necessary to ascend along
the shore for nearly a mile before you attempt to
cross. For two miles above the falls, on the Ca-
nada shore, no attempt is ever made to cross in
any kind of craft. The firsi mile, particularly, ex-
hibits one continued scene of raging and foaming
billou , dashing and rebounding against hidden
and projecting rock^. The descent of this rapid
is probably not less than one hundred feet within
the last mile ; and the vast body of water rushing
over its rugged and broken bottom, exhibits a
scene of noise and confusion surpassed only by
the fall itself.
The following story I had heard long before my
arrival at this place ; yet, as it was with considera-
'4
71
ble exaggerations, I now relate it simply as it was
told me here : " An Indian having procured a
" bottle of rum, refused to indulge his amiable
" squaw with such frequent and copious draughts
" from it as he did himself. This so offended the
" old lady, that when she found him at last over-
ly come with the fumes of his bottle, and that he
" had laid himself down in his canoe to slumber a
*' little, she gendy pushed the canoe from the
" shore, which, in a few minutes, was carried by
" the suction into the breakers, where the noise
" and commotion operated so powerfully upon the
" poor wretch as to awake him to a sense of his
" irretrievable danger. For a minute he tried the
" strength of his arm and paddle, but finding his
" last moments near, he seized the bottle of rum,
" raised it to his mouth, and in that posture was
" hurled into the dreadful abyss below."
They likewise relate another story of a most
mu-aculous escape of a Canadian boat, with ten or
twelve persons on board, that came very near go-
ing over the falls. In order to understand it perfectly
you must first be informed, that a company have
erected a set of mills on the edge of these upper
rapids, on the British side, where the stream is too
violent to permit any thing like a regular dam or
raceway to be built; here they have thrown in
some rocks, which, combined with others in their
natural situation, turn an abundant supply of wa-
ter around a small bend, for the use of the mill.
/
^.-
»^f.«R..-» ■*i':i»-..„'iii(Sfs
72
ti
*i
It appears there was a Canadian boat which
" had entered the river after a hard and laborious
" day's work on Lake Erie. All hands being
" much fatigued, and having the advantage of a
" good current and smooth water, they set one to
" watch, while the remainder laid themselves down
" to sleep. It happened, however, that the watch-
" man likewise fell asleep ; and, as the distance was
but fifteen miles, they soon drifted down to the
" rapids, where the noise and motion of the boat
*' first awaked them to a sense of their critical si-
" tuation. All is lost they cried ; and every
" man fell down on his knees to tell his beads or
♦' say a prayer, when the captain resolutely com-
" manded them to man their oars and pull for
" their lives. They obeyed him ; and, at the
" very moment when they expected to be hurled
" into the dreadful abyss, the boat struck a-mid-
" ships upon the very rocks just mentioned, and
" broke in two ; the stern part in an instant was
" precipitated over the falls, while the fore part,
" with all the men, was carried down the mill
" race, by which means they were saved."
While yet at a very great distance, you will
always observe a volume of clouds hoA'ering over
the falls ; nor is there any exception e^'en in the
clearest and brightest day ; the only perceivalile
difterence is in their height and colour. In a clear
bright day they appear very high and white, while,
on the tontiar}', in heavy, cloudy weather, they
1
... - /r" - .
73
^nk lower and acquire a smoky appearance.
Thes clouds proceed from the vapour arising
from the spray formed by the dashing of the wa
Zljf" .' '"^ °^ '°'°"^ ^d ^^"^tion of
and density of the atmosphe,^. The farmers set-
tled immediately in the neighbourhood of the falls
informed me that this spray causes the deadi of a
great part of their cattle during the cold winters;
as the continued fall of the dew and vapour con-
stantly covers them with a coat of ice, which
brings on a disease that carries them off in a
short time.
I purpose going over to the American side to-
morrow from whence I intend to take a further
v^vv and examination of the falls, and shall not
lail to make you acquainted with eveiy thing I
find worth noticing. I intended, before I closed
this, to have given you some account of the Chin
paway village but as it is already of an uni Jai
ength, and I shall probably tarry a few days
longer m this countiy, and have another opportu-
nity of writing, for the present farewell.
Yours,
•! I
C. S.
VOL. I.
74
LETTER VII.
Fort Schlosseft Niagara River^ August 8, 1801
Dear Friend,
'I
CHIPPAWAY ViUage, from which I wotc
my last, is situated on both sides of Chippaway
River, and connected by a good wooden bridge.
This viUage, which is built upon the site of an
old town of the Chippaway nation, contains only
about twehty houses. It has a garrison of twenty-
eight men, and some slight fortifications. The
river is navigable for about thirty miles for light
craft ; and towards the head waters are settled a
few of the Chippav/ay nation. The Chippaway is
the blackest and most stagnant water of any
living stream I have ever seen, in colour and flu-
idity strongly resembling West India molasses ; it
falls into the Niagara about two and a half miles
above the falls. This pure ?nd beautiful river, as
if conscious of the putrid and noxious qualities of
the Chippaway, refuses to intermix with her foul
stieam, but forces her to roll her thick and turbid
waters along the Canada shore, until, arriving at
a bend of the river, they go off to supply the mills
before mentioned.
75
Having given you all the information I have
been able to collect respecting this town, I shall
now proceed to amuse you with the remarks
and observations resulting from my view of the
falls on this side of the river.
When you arc at Fort Schlosseryou have about
one mile to walk to the pitch of the falls, the
greater part of which distance is along the banks
of the river, where you have an occasional peep at
the rapids above. About a i^uarter of a mile be-
fore you arrive at the falls you pass an exceUent
set of mills, erected by Porter, Barton 8c Co.
The situation of these mills is so very eligible, na-
ture having prepared everj- thing, that there re-
mained little else to do but to build them. As
you proceed. Goat Island, which divides the falls,
is seen at no great distance on your left ; the river
between is full of rocks, and here and diere you
perceive considerable lodges of drift wood, seem-
ingly waiting for a rise of the river in order to
launch themselves over the falls.
The margin of the river on this side is much
obstructed with trees and bushes, so that it re- *
quires some labour to clear away a space suffi-
ciently large to obtain a full view of the falls. You
may approach equally as near to die fallmg sheet
on this as on the opposite side of the river ; and,
by taking a proper station, in the morning of a
clear day, upon the edge of the precipice, you will
behold beneath your feet a beautiful and varie-
^<««faMj«I-^.-4>e^->
J
■V
78
Ml
gated rainbow, stretching from the American to
the Canada shore, and perpetually rolling, as if it
intjcnded to confound all its bright and glorious
colours into one confused mass^ while each still re-
mains separate and distinct. - ,
You may, likewise, have a very handsome view
not only of the falls, but also of the river both
above and below, by climbing sixty or seventy
feet up a sturdy old oak, which stands on the mar-
gin of the precipice, a small distance below the
falls, and near the banks of the river.
We next went to examine the hole which leads
to the lower regions on this side of the river. The
appearance of it was so truly frightful that I relin-
quished the design I liad formed of descending it,
and returned to my lodgings. Being assured, how-
ever, the next day, that the appearance ^vas more
dreadful than the reidity, and that any person not
subject to giddiness, who could depend upon the
strength of his arms in sustaining the weight of
his body occasionally, might descend in perfect
safety, I determined to make the attempt. Pro-
curing a guide and some ropes, I proceeded to the
hole, which was not less than two hundred feet
above the surface of the river. The guide, having
made a rope fast to a tree, soon disappeared under
the projecting rock, while he repeatedly called on
me to follow. Ashamed at length of my o\vn ti-
midity, I obeyed, and, after a thousiind hair-
breadth escapes, arrived safely at the bottom. «
■%-;ff*.' i J:^A.^i•i.i,
77
In making the descent on this side, I had o-ca-'
sion to remark, as on the other, the vast difference
in the noise heard from above and below. Whether
it was owing to the current of air setting over on
this side, or some other cause, I know not ; but
certainly the thundering roar of the waters was
much greater Mn on the other. The dread of
ialling wb.i. descending prevented my noticing
the increased ratio of the noise; but I no soon^
found myself at the bottom, than the mountains
appeared to tremble over my head, and the rocks
seemed to move under my feet ; and, indeed, it is
^ome time before you can free yourself from these
sensations.
You may advance so near to the fall on this
side as to wash your hands in the falling water-
but here, as on the other side, in a few minutes
you are quite wet to the skin. This is owing to the
abundance of vaix)ur which is continually falling-
ior, m many places, the spray rebounds from the
rocks with so much violence as to prevent a nearer
approach; and the constant humidity has covered
the rocks below the falls with a luxuriant growth
of grass of tliree feet in length, amongst which are
lound thousands of young eels.
Immediately below the flills is a small space in
the river, over which a boat might cross with
the greatest safety, being the onlv place where
such a passage is practicable betwee;! the falls and
Queen's Town. The cause I take to be this • the
'/
78
immense column of water is hurled into the un-
fathomable gulph to agreatdepth immediately aiort'
this .|X)t, and, by its own reaction, breaks out wiUi
inconceivable fury below ; it causes a kind of calm
eddies over the surface of the intermediate space
alluded to, which, although it apjiears white from
the raging of the waters underneath, yet, compara-
tively, may be considered as still as a mill-pond.
Wliat firut led me to this reflection was the ma-
iiojuvres of some wild ducks, which I observed
swimming backwards and forwards across this
space, and who carefully avoided every place
which I should liave thought dangerous for a boat.
Could I have obtained a canoe or sk^ff, I should
not have h^itated a moment about trying the ex-
periment. There are considerable quantities of
lish, deer and other animal bones found along
this shore, being, as I suppose, the remains of such
as have be-n crushed in the falls. It is the com-
mon opinion, however, that the sir ^iller fish gene-
rally escape unhuit.
After having spent the whole morning in these
lower regions, we made our ascent once more to
the upper ; and I do not know that I ever felt
more satisfaction than when I found myself safely
landed upon terra firnia.
I am much surprised that a place so celebra-
ted as the Falls of Niagara, and which is visited
by so miuiy travellers, amongst whom aie no in-
considerable number of ladies, should not yet" have
induced some enterprising person to erect a con-
venient liouse on this side of the river for their ac
commodiUion, as likewise a proper sti\irs for de-
sccnding to the bottom of the falls. Twenty.five
doUars would defray the expense of a convenient
stair.ladder, with hand-rails ; and surely no person,
after travelling from two hundred to one thousand
miles to view the falls, viuld hesitate to pay one,
or even five dollars, for r safe and easy conveyance
to the bottom. Juc' -^ P. who owns the lands ad-
joining the falls on this side of the river, informed
me he should, as soon as possible, build a house
near the best view of the falls, and appoint some
proper person to keep a genteel tavern for the
accommodation of the curious. He will like,
wise erect a stairs, sufficiently safe and easy for
ladies to descend to the foot of the falls. When
these conveniences are completed, as I trust they
soon will be, I have no doubt but they will attract
the frequent and numerous visits of my fair coun-
try women, whose laudable curiosity has already
been so great as to induce a very considerable
number even to risk the present inconveniences,
rather than not behold this wonder of the worid.
The perpendicular height of tlie falls on this shore
is one liundred and sixty-four feet, and on the Ca-
n;\dy i-r,i one hui f!rjd and forty-three.
liie river, at Fort Schlcsser, is two and a half
miles wide, and, for one mile above the falls, alto-
gether impassable. Goat Island, which divides
F-'
80
10
'A
((
the falls, contains about eighteen or tv/enty acres of
land, and is situated nearest the American shore.
This island has generally been reputed never to have
been visited by any human being, excepting, as
they relate, « by a couple of Indians, who, many
" years ago, were thrown, with their canoe,
" upon it, and, after two or three days, spent in se-
" veral vain attempts to recover the main land,
" were discovered by some of their nation. They,
" at length, by making long bark ropes, and
" carrying them a coi-.iderablc distance up the
" stream, succeeded in floating one end against the
" island, by which means they were enabled to
" rescue the poor wretches from certain death."
It has always been considered impossible for any
person ever to get off after having landed on the
island. This notion is now found to 'be erroneous ;
and we are indebted to an accident for the discovery
of a safe and easy passage to the island, provided
you have a pilot who has been there before. It
seems " a man, in passing from Chippaway to
" Fort Schlosser in a canoe, depended so much
" upon his own skill and activity in managing his
" craft, that he attempted to cross over without
" going along the shore a sufficient distance up the
" stream. The consequence was, that he would
" have bceii precipitated from the height, had he
" not accidentally struck the bottom with his
" paddle, just as the stream, had carried him in a
1
81
" direct line with the upper end of this island,
" where, jumping out, he found he had struck
" upon a narrow sand bar a'uout one rod wide,
" and never before discovered. He pursued the
" whole length of the bar downward, and found
" it approached to within fifteen rods of the up-
" per end of Goat Island, where the water was
" very deep and the curren: strong, but not impass-
" able. He crossed this little strait, and was tlie
" first man, excepting the two Indians before men^
" tioned, ever known to have landed and returned
" from this island." I made some inquiry after
this man, but found he was forgotten; and, as
the general opinion is that he was drunk when
he stumbled on this discovery, it is of no great
consequence that you should know who he was.
From the situation of the island in the middle of
the. falls^ I was strongly tempted to pay it a visit ;
and finding a person who had been there before, I
engaged him to provide a canoe, and the next
morning, after breakfast, we set out on our expe-
dition. In less than half an hour we were safely
landed upon the island. Having passed to the
extremity of it, I suddenly found myself trans-
ported as it were to the centre of the grand
confusion around me ; and, after cautiously ad-
vancing to the edge of the precipice, and obser-
ving the firm and solid foundation upon which I
VOL. I. L .'t
h
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•82
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1
► -I \
stood, I experienced a degree of^ security not to be
felt in any other situation when viewing the falls.
At no great distance, on my left, I recognised
the hollow projectmg Table Rock, upon which I
had lately stood ; while, on my right, I traced from
rock to rock, under a similar projection, my last
descent to the lower regions.
The falls are making daily inroads on this
island, as well as on the general foundation of
the river; for, while standing here, we heard
a hollow rumbling noise, which, at one mo-
ment, -eemed to die away, then suddenly to re-
vive again. I was, for some time, entirely at a
loss to account for so strange an occurrence ; at
length, as I had turned my face towards the sound,
I perceived a large black rock now and then
showing itself amongst the foaming billows,
which were hurling it over a smooth rocky
bottom, on its way to the falls.
When last on the Canada shore, I saw an old
Indian who spoke tolerably good English, and had
a long chat with him respecting the foils. He in-
formed me, that, when he was a younng warrior,
he was amongst those who gav^ Braddock his fa-
mous defeat ; that at that time there wtfs a small
rocky island that laid upon the very edge of the
Ms, at no great distance from Goat Island, and
Avhich was very remarkable for having two trees
pr%;cting over the falls. It is reasonable to be-
^,-*Wn.
lieve that this account is not untrue, as eight or
ten large rocks, lying very near the edge of the
falls, are still perceptible, and which, in all proba-
bility^ are the last fragments of the little island he
alluded to. These would long since have been
torn from their foundations, did not their situation
protect them from the force of the main current.
From the great body of water passing off on the
Canada shore, tlie rocks, or foundation of the falls,
are subject to greater inroads tliere, than any other
part. The falls, from this spot, have something
of the form of an irregular horse-shoe, with one
side of the curve longer than the other ; the long-
est being on the American shore. This is owing
to its wearing away much faster on the opposite
shore.
We found some juniper berries on this island,
which were the largest I have ever seen in the
State of New- York. After having spent the. whole
morning upon this delightful and romantic spot,
we left the island, and, by pursuing the same
course, returned in stifety to our lodgings, well
satisfied with tlie adventures of the day.
Yours,
C. S.
r
J
84
I I
LETTER VIII.
Upper Canada, Qtteen^s Town, August 11, 1807.
Dear Friend,
NO opportunity of a passage across Lake Erie
liaving yet offered, I find myself detained some
days longer in this quarter than I expected. I
therefore concluded I could not spend my time
more agreeably than in making little excursions
through this country, sometimes on the Canada
side, and at other times on the opposite shore. You
will observe, from the date of this, that my last
movement has been down the river ; the reason for
which is, that having observed that the form and
make of the country below the falls coincided with
an opinion I had ix.ibibed, that, at some remote
period, a great change had there taken place, I
was induced to spend all my time in making a
personal examination of that part of it situate
between Lake f>ie and Lake Ontario.
This country may very properly be divided into
higher and lower; the latter of which will in-
clude the greatest part of that large district com-
prehended between Niagara River, Lake Ontario,
*T^6iL,
85
and the smaller body of lakes, generally distin-
guished as the Genessee Country, in the State
of New- York, eastwardly ; as likewise a large
extent of country west of the Niagara River, in
Upper Canada, including all the country around
the west and north-west ends of Lake Ontario.
All this appears to me to have been formerly the
bed of a great lake, the remains of which we now
find in Lake Ontario. From the summit of the
highest lands between the two lakes this natural
boundary of the former lake is very easily distin-
guished, and the immense basin before you has
strikingly the appearance of having emerged as
the waters subsided. What strengthens this opi-
nion is the numerous specimens of lake shells
found in every part of this country, in many places
fifty miles distant inland. Another circumstance
which likewise goes towards supporting this same
opinion, is that, in seeking for a proper place to
run a new road, a long narrow indented strip of
land was found in the heart of a rich loamy coun-
try, composed entirely of coarse gravel, pebbles,
shells and other marine productions, which now
are only found on the shores of the lake, and which
evidently had once been the shore, beach or sand
bar of the ancient lake.
The upper country commences immediately
above Queen's and Lewis Towns, where the hills
rise gradually to a height of nearly four hundred
feet ; from the summit of which you have an ex-
^.
.^) f
'II
II
u
80
tensive view for sixty or eighty miles around, and
far across Lake Ontario itself. This ridge rises
on both sides of the river, and seems one to have
formed the barrier of the western waters above.
To the left, after passing into Canada, it winds
along the west and south-west parts of Lake On-
tario, receding from the lake as it advances in that
quarter ; while to the right it passes off eastwardly
to the Genessee Country, preserving its elevation
still ; from whence it may be traced south -east-
wardly until it becomes the dividing ridge between
the waters of the Rivers St. Lawrence, Susquehanna
and Alleghany, which discharge themselves into the
Atlantic ocean near Newfoundland, Baltimore and
New-Orleans ; a distance, in the two extremes, of
nearly three thousand miles apart.
The banks on both sides of the river, from
Queen's Town to the present situation of the falls,
are solid perpendicular rocky cliiFs, two hundred
feet above the surface of the fiver ; and that every
part of this distance, which is about seven and a
lialf miles, has successiv ^ been tlie site of the
falls itself, must be evident to any person who will
take the trouble to examine it throughout the
whole length. This river, and particularly the
part within the distance I am now describing, ne-
ver rises above four or five feet higher than it is
at present ; and, although it is impassable on ac-
count of its violent agitation, yet nothing short of
the irresistible fury of the falls itself could ever
87
have made those lasting and ini.nitable impres-
sions which are to be seen upon the stupendous
mass of rocks throughout the whole of this distance;
and for ages to come they will remain as monuments
of the great and surprising changes this country
has undergone. *
From what I could learn of the inhabitants, ma-
ny unsuccesrful attempts had been made to sound
the river in several j^laces, which, from the gene-
ral opinion, is believed to be at least two hundred
feet deep. As no boat can live on this part of the
river, every attempt of this kind will be made from
the land ; and I am well convinced,. from my own
observations, that it will be verj^ difficult to sound
it with any degree of accuracy, as the immense
body of waters^ and velocity of the current, would
carry off a weight before it could reach the bottom
of the place attempted.
If, according to the ^fosaic chronology, our
globe, at the present m^- :nt, is no more than five
thousand eight hundred and thirteen years old,
and we admit the falls to haye been formed at the
same time, we shall then have a ratio of encroach,
ment upon the upper country of seven and a half
aailes during that period. This, upon calculation,
I find reduces the proportion to 81 3-4 inches for
a year, 6 3-4 inches for a month, and 1-5 of an
hich for a day. Although this rate of destruction
is great, yet, according to the same authority, we
are under the necessity of increasing its ratio near-
4
.|>
h
'If
i-:
t
L
^11
/
as
ly one-half; for, according to the true doctrine of
our time, " in consequence of the general deluge,
" our globe was torn from its centre, all its parts
" confounded together, and, after a general amal-
" gamation, was reproduced in form and cubstancc
" as we now find it." I have not yet found any one
who will admit the formation of the falls to be
coeval with our globe ; they are satisfied to go no
farther back than the period of Noah's flood. This,
then, will oblige me to deduct two thousand three
hundred and forty-eight years from my first calcu-
lation, as that is said to be the age of our earth at
the time of the deluge. The increased rate of en-
croachment will, therefore, then be 114 3-10 inches
for a year, 9 1-2 inches for a month, and 3-10
of an inch for a day. If, then, it is admitted that
these falls, in the short period of four thousand*one
hundred and fifty-seven years, have receded from
their original situation at Lewis Town, to their
present site at Fort Schlosser, a distance of seven
miles and a half, we may reasonably calculate that,
in the succeeding five hundred and sixty-seven
years, they will have advanced at least another mile
of 5,280 feet. This, then, will include all the ra-
pids above the falls, and, consequently, add an-
other height of one hundred feet to their present
elevation, which will make a perpendicular fall of
nearly three hundred feet.
1
doctrine of
:ral deluge,
ill its parts
neral amal-
i Gubstance
nd any one
falls to be
;d to go no
Dod. This,
isand three
first calcu-
)ur earth at
rate of en-
-10 inches
, and 3-10
nitted that
)usand*one
;eded from
1, to their
e of seven
:ulate that,
iixty-seven
lother mile
all the ra-
fy add a|i-
eir present
ular fall of
89
The idea of this once taking place has so heated
my imagination, that I have even wished my ap-
pearance had been dispensed with until that period •
but, since it is not so, I have one consoling idei
eft, which is derived from the pleasing specula,
tions of a wise man of Greece*-" that we exist
lor ever, and only change our forms." If this
doctrine is true, (and greater absurdities are be.
Iteved to be true,) may I not hope, like " Lucius »
m the " Golden Ass of Apuleius," to see these cele-
brated falls at the desired period, even should it be
in the shape of an ass ?
I cannot believe that the falls make so rapid an
encroachment upon the upper country as the above
account would seem to indicate ; for when you re-
fleet that we have been acquainted with this part
of the country ever since the year one tiiousand
SIX hundred and sixty-eight, making a period of
one hundred and forty-one years, which, accord-
ing to the calculation made, gives us 1320 feet
or one.quarter of a mile, encroachment during that
time, I siiy I cannot believe thit a circumstance
so- extraordinary should have remained unno-
ticed until this late period. And, when you
consider that the whole bed and foundation of the
falls are composed of a hard solid rock, you will
* Pythago,.as who affirmed that his body was animated
by the soul of Euphorbus.
VOL. I. tt
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}
I
M/
90
not be surprised if I say, I even doubt whether it
be de>itroyed at the rate of one-twentieth part of an
inch tor a day. This I find would give 1 1-2 inches
for a month, 18 inches for a year, 1,500 feet for
one thousand years ; and to hiive receded from
their original position at Lewis Town, to their
present situation at Fort Schlosser, would have re-
quired i\ period of twenty-seven thousand yeiu-s.
I am well aware that this doctrine is better cal-
culated for the empire of China than that of my
own country, and you know I am too much of a
tiue believer myself to advance any thing new,
contrary to the ancient regimen ; I shall, therefore,
briefly sum up this seeming contradiction by sup-
posing that although Moses takes twenty-three
thousand years less to complete the same system of
destruction, yet, it is very probable, that some vio-
lent convulsions of nature may have assisted him
more in one of his years than has been experien-
ced in the whole of my twenly-sevcn thousand.
That die waters of the Niagara River above the
falls, as likewise of Lake Erie, continue insensibly
to lower, is ronfirmed by almost every person vt'ho
has lived long on their banks. The current of the
river is likewise said to be stronger than formerly,
o\ving, probably, to the continued wearing away
of the bed of the river, which affords a more rapid
descent for the stream above. Another eonvincing
circumstance that this river, above the falls, wii
once a part of the iuieient Lake Eric itself, is, th:
*^"*'^*^"*i*fc*»*n
91
whether it
part of an
1-2 niches
00 feet for
:ded from
», to their
d have re-
nd yeiirs.
better cal-
hat of my
much of a
thing new,
, therefore,
on by sup-
venty -three
e system of
t some vio-
ssisted him
1 cxperien-
housand.
r above the
e insensibly
person vVho
rrent of the
m formerly,
taring away
more rapid
convincing
le falls, wii
self, is, th:
in diggii ; wells, &c. at a consideraHe distance
from the banks, shells are very often found. Judge
P. walked with me one morning to a place where
n man was digging holes for the purpose of sink-
ing tan vats, and where he had found, six or seven
feet below the surface of the earth, a great num-
ber and variety of shells. This place is about
three hundred yards above the falls, and at least
thirty feet higher than the surface of the river, in a
soil exacdy like tb>t in the bed of the river— a yeU
lowish sandy gravel. I took several of the shells
as specimens, with an intent to compare them with
thos<- found at present in the river ; one, in parti-
cular, was so very large and thick, (being seven
mches long, three and three-quarters wide, and
half an inch thick at the hinge,) that I doubted
whether our lakes or rivers produced any thing
like it at present. Judge P. however, informed
me he had seen some as large taken out of the
river ; nor was it long before 1 had an opportunity
of being satisfied that they were of the same shape,
figure and size with those now found in the bed
of the same river. From this circumstance it is
evident that this spot was, at some distant period,
a part of the lake ; and, as it would require a rise
of thirty or forty feet to overflow it, which would
consequently inundate a large tract of the sur-
rounding country, it is plain that the ancient Lake
Erie must have formerly been much larger than it
is at present.
t
[
* ki
I (
I
,^ -^"'■i
92
i-i
I.
^ H
On the hills immediately back of Lewis Town,
is still to be seen some small remains of the ma-
chinery formerly used by the French, when in pos-
session of this country. This is a contrivance
made prior to any roads or teams being in use in
this wilderness, and so constructed that, with a
kind of windlass mid cable, one end would draw
up a large frame made to contain three or four
thousand weight of goods, while the other end,
with an apparatus of the same kind, would de-
scend with the same or a greater quantity of peltry.
I am likewise informed, that they had another
contrivance of the siime kind at the outlet of
Lake 2rie, which is the head of Niagara Jliver,
where the current is so very rapid that vessels re-
quire the strongest sailing breeze to stem it. From
this circumstance large vessels seldom drop down
so low as the strongest rapids; notwithstanding
which, they are frequently obliged to wait a fort-
night together for a breeze sufficiently powerful to
carry them without the reach of the current.
The present portage on the American side,
which is seven miles to Fort Schlosser, will un-
doubtcdly, in a few years, be changed to a new
landing, six miles above the present. This place
is owned by a Mr. J. who has purchased a tract
of thirteen hundred acres of land from the state,
for which he paid five dollars an acre. This site
for a town or landing, is no more than seven miles
from Lewis Town, which you will perceive is the
I
WIS Town,
f the ma-
ten in pos-
ontrivance
; in use in
at, with a
ould draw
;e or four
other end,
would de-
of peltry,
d another
outlet of
am fliver,
essels re-
it. From
rop down
hstanding
ait a fort-
)werful to
ent.
can side,
will un-
to a new
his place
d a tract
the state,
rhis site
'en miles
ive is the
93
same distance to Fort Schlosser, the present land-
ing place. The difference of six miles in so short
a distance, ,s occasioned by a sudden bend in the
river. I have seen and conversed with the oro-
prietor of this tract, who described the turn of the
river, which I afterwards found to be perfectly
correct. Judge P. likewise mentioned to me, as
his opmion, that the landing-place would undoubt-
edly be removed whenever J. 's property fell into
the hands of any one able to open, or rather clear
out, a road already opened.
The owner of this tract is a Pennsylvanian Ger-
man, and fully sensible of the importance of its
situation; yet, as he is unable to accomplish any
thing himsejf, he offered to dispose of one-half of
It to me, as being his countryman; but was afraid
to have any thing to do with strangers, lest they
should ch.ut him out of the whole. The road is
capable of being made good and dry at a very
moderate expense, and, from the conviction that
It must shortly become the deposit of all the goods
which pass down the lakes, I was almost induced *
to make the purchase.
Yours,
C. S.
11
,;
t4
LETTER IX.
<--«
Lake Erie, Upper Canada, August 16, 1807.
Dear Friend,
HAVING, in my three last, laboured hard to
entertain you with every thing I could observe re-
specting the falls, and the surrounding country, I
shall now proceed with the progress of my jour-
ney. Fort Erie is distant twenty-four miles by
water from Fort Schlosser. There is no waggon
road on the American side, but a tolerable horse-
path, which, if it is not too dark, you may make
out to find.
The freight from Fort Schlosser to this place,
or to Black Rock, as it is called, upon the oppo-
site shore, is thirty-seven and a half cents a barrel,
and twenty -five cents a hundred weight for mer-
chandise ; to which is added, the pleasure of
s! eping one night in the woods. As you have
already experienced what some of our fair weather
friends would call the " horrors of a night in the
'* wilderness," I dare not attempt to magnify the
dangers and hardships to which one is exposed in
a situation so dreadful ; but candidly own I spent
95
the night with more comfort and satisfaction than
that which you will recollect we passed about
eight years ago on the banks of Lake Ontario,
when we were very much frightened at the growl-
ing of a bear, who, uninvited, came to partake of
our half roasted raccoon.
This river is from one to one and a half miles in
breadth, with a current of from four to five miles
an hour. It is interspersed with a number of rich
and beautiful islands, of from twenty to two hun-
dred acres. Grand Island, which begins about two
miles above Fort Schlosser, is twelve miles long,
eight broad, and contains about thirty thousand
acres of excellent land. This island is disputed
by the British, who claim it as being nearest their
shore ; but, as the midd'e of the river is the boun-
dary line between the two nations, and the main
ehanntl of the river is on the Canada shore, there
can be no doubt but the sovereignty of it belongs
to the State of New- York.
The land on both sides of the river is somewhat
low, although not subject to any inundations ; the
soil is rich, and the British side is one settled
street from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. The
American side, on the contrary, remains almost
wholly waste and unimproved, chiefly owin^^ to
the lands being in the hands of speculators, who
do not offer sufficient encouragement to the poor
settler to make improvements.
k "
■■^ gp% t-:;:r;r'
m0r'
96
111
I
■ '11. 1]
ill
The country along this river is considered as
very heaUhy, being free from those agues and fe-
vers which are generally so prevalent in mostrew
low countries.
If I may give credit to one-half of the stories I
have heard related, the country through which I
have passed must contain a vast number of rattle-
snakes ; yet I have now travelled upwards of five
hundred miles, a greater part of which was through
a new and unsettled country, and frequently on
foot for ten miles together, when hunting in the
woods, yet I have seen but two snakes, neither
of which were of the rattle kind. As it is now
the middle of summer, when they might be ex-
pected to be most numerous, I must conclude they
are not so plentiful as they are generally reported
to be.
Fort Erie, which is situated at the outlet of the
lake, contains a small garrison of twenty-tight
men, who, at present, are employed in building
new works. The Americans have no fort or gar-
rison on their side, although there is a most com-
manding situation for that purpose. This fort lies
in latitude 42. 53. N. and 78. 59. W.
Fort Erie Village contains about thirty houses in
the vicinity of the garrison, the inhabitants of
whi( h have mostly emigrated from Pennsylvania.
You here observe the same open and avowed par-
liality for the United States which 1 have noticed
1
by
ht
Mi..J
iiiii
.^3i#-.
d7
in every place I was at in Upper Canada. You
will perhaps be surprised at a little anecdote I shall
relate which actually took place but a few days
ago, in the presence and hearing of the officers and
soldiers of the garrison. It seems, the British had
occasion to move two heavy pieces of cannon,
mounted on carriages in front of the fort ; but, by
some strange accident, one of them was pointed
direcdy towards Buffaloe, an American settlement.
One of our citizens happening to be there in the
course of the day, and being, perhaps, prompted
by the same laudable curiosity which induced
his royal majesty to peep into the bung-hole of
an empty hogshead, when on a visit to Whit-
bread's brewery, likewise peeped into the muz-
zie of the gun ; but not satisfied, he went to
the other end and took her level, when, behold,
she was found to be pointed directly against his
settlement. He immediately saluted the king, his
officers and soldiers with all the scurrilous language
he was capable of, concluding with a bitter curse
that he would return the next day with a party of
choice fellows, and, if he found the gun in the
same position, he would hang every mother's son
of them, without judge or jury.
We found three British schooners lying here
waiting for salt, one of which was bound for
Presque Isle. I engaged our passage on board of
her ; but, as she was afterwards detained several
VOL. I.
N
•V);
*"■*' "sl^W^*-""
i !
98
days with head winds, I spent my time most agree-
ably, being continually engaged in my favourite
amusement of fishing. This place affords a great
variety of fine, large and delicious fish, such as pike,
pickerel, musconenja and cat fish, weighing from
twenty to forty pounds ; and while, rock and black
bass, weighhig from one to three pounds each ;
besides a variety of smaller and less valuable fish.
In two hours I have taken a hundred weight with
a hook and line. The greatest difficulty I found
was in procuring a regular supply of bait, which
is small minnows, sometimes so plentiful that you
may obtain a supply in five minutes, and at other
times so scarce that you may search an hour with-
out obtaining a handful. The cat fish here ap-
pear to be of a different species from those caught
in the ponds and waters in the vicinity of New-
York, having none of the sharp homs which make
those so dangerous to handle. I have eat them
both fresh and salted, and cannot compare them to
any thing but cod fish, except that the cat fish is
much the fattest of the two.
The best fishing ground is directly under the
American shore, where I have been much amused
while walking along the beach, and seeing a herd
of little Indians collected together, every one or
two hundred }'ards, lor the purpose of fishing, and
generally so successful that each had a burthen to
carry to the family wigwam.
nost agree-
y favourite
rds a great
ich as pike,
jhing from
: and black
inds each ;
uable fish,
weight with
y I found
>ait, which
ul that you
id at other
hour with-
1 here ap-
Dse caught
r of New-
hich make
eat them
re them to
cat fish is
under the
;h amused
ng a herd
ry one or
ihing, and
jurthen to
99
Ahhough I generally prefer fishing to shooting,
yet L.'s success one day induced me to pass over
to the Canada shore for the purpose of shooting
black squirrels. I have often seen flocks of black
birds on a tree, but never before flocks of squir-
rels ! You are perhaps surprised at my assertion,
but I repeat it, they were literally in small flocks
upon the trees ; on some we found ten, twelve and
fifteen, and L. even killed five of them at one shot.
Indeed, it was hardly necessary to shoot them, as
you would frequently find three or four upon a
little bush not more than twelve or fifteen feet in
height. We shot one hundred and eighty-seven
in less than three hours. They were exceedingly
fat, and as they made such delicious sea pies, we
took care to have a good stock provided for sea
stores. The boys from the village hunt them with
sticks and clubs ; but generally let them lie where
they chance to knock them down, as the inhabit-
ants are surfeited with the too frequent repetition
of the dish. Encouragement is however held out
for their destruction, as they commit great havoc
in the com fields. It is somewhat singular that
on the American side, you may range a day
through the woods, and scarcely pick up half a
dozen of these animal^s, while there are such innu-
merable flocks on the opposite shore ; an evident
sign, I think, that the present multitudes, from
some cause or other, have migrated from the inte-
rior of the north-west, until their farthe. progress
i%\. '.U.''f»!*Wiv«4»»«.-*
2i>i,"
5ga _:v..j^ mm^ -
•' (
•I'
Ml
100
south-eastwardly was arrested by the broad and
rapid stream of Niagara.
Fort Erie is a port of entry for the British do-
minions on this side of the lake, and Buffaloe
Creek has been established for the same purpose
on the American side.
The current of the river at this place 3 s
strong that it is impossible for a vessel to sail .
of port with any thing short of a four knot breeze ;
and, if one-half mile lower, she wiU require even
a stronger one to stem the current. Vessels fre-
qucntly lie wind-bound here for a week or two to-
gether ; whereas, if they were only one mile ad-
vanced into the lake, out of the draught of the
outlet, they might make an exper^itious voyage.
On the American side I have oh -rved they use
a yoke of oxen for towing the boats up along
shore.
Buffaloe is a small village situated on Buffaloe
Creek, about three miles after you pass the out-
let of Lake Erie, on your left hand side. I
was present at the annual distribution of the
presents to the six nations of Indians, most
of whom now live within the British territo-
ries. There were about five hundred assembled
together on this occasion, some of whom were
painted and feathered off fine enough. They had
likewise a council meeting, for the purpose of re-
ceiving and considering certain overtures that had
been made to them by some hostile Indians, '' to
broad and
British do-
i Buffaloe
le purpo^
lace i V.
to sail . .. '
ot breeze ;
juire even
essels fre-
or two to-
mile ad-
?ht of the
IS voyage.
they use
up along
I Buffaloe
s the out-
side. I
n of *e
ns, most
ih territo-
ssembled
om were
Phey had
3se of re-
i that had
ians, " to
m
" take up the tomahawk against the United States •"
but they wisely determined to remain neuter in
case of hostilities between America and Englanci,
After their busmess was setUed, they formed
themselves into parties at ball-playing, aod run-
mng races for prizes given by the State. Their
manner of ball.playing is very similar to what you
have seen by the name of hurley; but, instead ,f
the curved hickory used on that occasion, they
have a long curved racket, strung with deer sinews,
with which they can strike the ball to an astonish-
mg distance. Whenever the ball was lodged
among the crowd of players, you would have sup-
posed there was a bloody battle going on as
eveiy one struck pell-mell together wfdi their
lockets not m the least heeding whom he knock-
ed on the head; but, whenever a lucky stroke
drove the bal near to the goal, you would have
thought he 1 Itself had broke loose, for such a
hideous yell and screaming was instantly set upas
baffles all my attempts at a description
X was much amused by the pride and gallantry
displayed by one of the victors on receiving asT
prize, a light calico shirt. As soon as he recei
ved It he put it on, and, after viewing himself for
a moment, sO-utted through the crowd to display
his finely. In a k^ minutes he returned to a
circle of women, when he pulled off his prize and
put It upon one of the lady squaws, who soon ex-
penenced th^ value of this mark of distinction by
i^r^^^f-^"-
102
attracting the admiration of some, and exciting the
envy of more^ among the crowd of females around
her.
There is a very good ferry kept on the Ameri-
can side of the river, which is within the reserva-
tion tract intended for a garrison, should occasion
require it. The Seneca Indians, in their treaty
with the State of New- York, have secured the
privilege of a free ferry across this river whenever
they please.
I am just notified that the wind is fair, and the
captam waiting for me, in order to get under way.
My next will be from Presque Isle across Lake
Erie ; or, if no immediate opportunity of convey-
ance should offer, more probably from the head
waters of the celebrated Ohio. Till when farewell.
Yours,
C. S.
si*
■'-.i^'^"^"
xciting the
les around
he Ameri-
le reserva-
d occasion
;heir treaty
ecured the
■ whenever
ir, and the
under way.
:ross Lake
of convey-
n the head
n farewell.
C. S.
103
LETTER X.
Pennsylvania, Fort Le Beauf, August 25, 1807.
Dear Friend,
_ YOU will perceive from the date of my letter
that I have at length arrrived at one of the head
waters of the Ohio. But. before I say any thing
m advance, ,t is necessary you should know the
particulars of my voyage to this pUce.
We embarked on the twentieth instant on
board of the British schooner Dover, Cant' H
bound for Presque Isle, and, havhg a fair wind'
the wmd died away, and afterwarfs set in a head
and continued so for the remainder of our voyaee'
We we,, within fifteen miles of our destinatiS;
when the wind increased to such a gale as render,
ed It necessao' for us, in older to secure a har
hour, to run over to the Canada shore, and come"
to under Cape Aleneau. Uke Erie is perhaps the
most dangerous to navigate of all the lakes, afford-
•ng no harbours, and almost one continued cni^V
|rona,ound shore. Another misfortune is, S
the bottom ,5 generally a smooth rocky surface
i
\\
f
■N"
104
unfit for anchoring; so that, if you are once
caught with even a moderate gale upon a lee
shore, there is no alternative but to slip your ca-
ble and beat off, or suffer shipwreck.
After having handed all our sails, we lay too all
night under a double reefed fore-sail, and in the
nidrhiirg found oursielves, as it were, in the mid-
dle of the ocean ; no land was to be seen on either
side. Towards evening the wind settled consider-
ably, and before dark had abated so much of its
vidlencc as enabled us to set all sail. The lake,
however, in the mean time, had become so agita-
ted' as to give a very disagreeable motion Jo the
vessel, which rendered this night even more un-
pleasant than the former. I was up long before
day-light, looking out for the land, so impatient
was I to be ortce more on shore. This pleasure,
hoHVever, was denied me during the whole of that
day, although towards evening we were close in
with the land ; but, about midnight, we received
the pleasing intelligence that we had come to an
anchor under the town of Presque Isle.
The distance of Presque Isle from Fort Erie is
ninety miles. Freight is seventy-five cents a bar-
rel, merchandise fifty-cents a hundred weight, and
a cabin passage four dollars, including board. It
lies in latitude 42. 10. N. and 80. 8. W.
The land from Fort Erie Ferry, or Black Rock,
up to BufflUoe Creek, and from thence to Chau-
I
-— i.^-
105
are once
ipon a lee
,p your ca-
lay too all
ind in the
1 the mid-
n on either
I consider-
luch of its
The lake,
e so agita-
tion Jo the
more un-
)ng before
) impatient
s pleasure,
ole of that
re close in
^e received
;ome to an
ort Erie is
ents a bar-
veight, and
board. It
T
•
ack Rock,
to Chau-
taughque, which is sixty miles, appears to be low
rich hind, generally reputed healthy ; it then rises
suddenly to a great height, and has all the appear-
ance of being a rough mountainous country, yet,
I was informed, continues in general level and
champaign. The whole distanc- between Presque
Isle and Le Beauf, with one or two small excep-
tions, Ifound a handsome, rich and level tract, and
the roads so very miry that, even at this dry season
you would suppose you was travelling over some
bottom.
Chautpughque landing is so called from a seven
mile portage communicating with Chautaughque
Lake, situated in that comer of our State which
joins Pennsylvania, on Lake Erie. This lake dis-
charges its waters through the Ccnnewango River
into the Alleghany, which meet the waters of Le
Beauf and French Creek, at Fort Franklin, about
one hundred and ten miles below this. The
freight to Chautaughque is the same as to Presque
Isle, although thirty-three or four mUes nearer.
This is owing to Chautaughque being as yet an en'
tire new settlement, having but one house, and no
vessels of its own. The time, however, wUl soon
arrive when a seven mile portage, over a good
road, will draw off all the carrying trade from
Presque Isle, where the shortest portage will be
fourteen miles.
VOL. r.
o
i..r«3tR*,.
iSfe*'-
.. r*-'-S*t,
^■'-..J5^^.-'^mm^
106
The village of Presque Isle is regularly laid out,
and contains at present about thirty houses ; its
situation is high, pleasant and heulthy, and com-
mands an extensive view of the lake and adjacent
country ; its chief support at present depends
upon the transportation of salt to the head waters
of the Ohio.
The harbour of Presque Isle is not only large
and spacious, with a good depth of water, but
also affords good anchoring ground, and complete
shelter from wind and sea ; yet, on account of a
sand bar which runs across its mouth, no vessel
drawing more than four feet water can avail herself
of these advantages. They talk, indeed, of opening
a channel of sufficient depth to admit vessels draw-
ing twelve feet water ; but I am of opinion that,
as the general ground swell of the lake beats in
from that quarter, unless they can likewise open
another for the roll of the sea, their labour will be
in vain.
Vessels employed in navigating this lake are
constantly exposed to the dangers of shipwreck,
for the want of good harbours. Even here, at
Presque Isle, a vessel comes to an anchor a^ near
to the shore as she dare, when flats are sent out to
unload her. This is often attended with great de-
lays, as it frequently happens that a light sea will
prevent these flats from going out for a week to-
gether; and oftentimes the vessel is obliged to
heave up her anchors and stand out to sea, to
^'>^wm-i-!f-i.'
^ —>'**'"
107
avoid being dashed to pieces on a lee shore. This
is the cause, and a very reasonable one too, I think,
why freight is higher on this lake than on Lake
Ontario.
Presque Isle is situated within what is called the
" Triangle," being a tract formerly belonging to
the State of New-York, but ceded in order to ac-
commodate Pennsylvania with a convenient front
upon Lake Erie. A certain company, known by
the name of the " Population Land Company,"
have purchased a consideniblc part of this tnict,
upon condition of making certain settlements
within a limited time. This has not been fulfilled
oil their part, on account, as they allege, of " the
" United States being involved in a war with the
" neighbouring Indians, which prevented the emi-
" gration of settlers." In consequence of which a
very considerable number of settlers had taken
possession of several small tracts of their land, as wild
lands of the State, and settled them under the con-
ditions specified by a certain act of the legislature,
made " for the encouragement of settlers settling
" upon the western lands belonging to the State."
Many of these poor people, after several years
struggling with the difficulties of a frontier settle-
ment, had just began to reap the fruits of their
well-earned labours, when they found themselves
involved in a lawsuit with the Population Compa-
ny, who, I am informed, have recovered the
claims upon the ground before mentioned. None
108
-V ft
I*
ilf
of the executions have as yet been carried into
effect ; and, if I may judge from the spirit and
determination of some of the unfortunate sufferers
with whom I have conversed, they are determined
to defend what they consider as their lawful ac-
quisitions with the last drop of their blood.
The company are certainly justifiable in esta-
Wishing their just claims, yet, considering all cir-
cumstances, it would be better to effect some
kind of a compromise with the unfortunate settlers,
rather than drive them to acts of desperation!
This question, like many others of a local nature,
has at length become blended with the divided
politics of the State, and bids fair to give rise to a
little insurrection. At least, it is my humble
opinion, that the executions cannot be carried into
effect without the shedding of l)lood.
There was formerly a considerable garrison
kept at Presque Isle, and, if I mistake not, used
to be the head-quariers of that gallant old soldier
General Anthony Wayne. The fort and other
works are now rapidly going to decay, which is
not much to be regretted, as they will scarcely
ever be occupied again in case of an Indian war.
Recollecting that the remains of General Wayne
were interred at his particular request under the
flag staff belonging to this fort, I was induced one
morning to pay it a visit, expecting to find at least
a decent, if not a sumptuous monument erected to
his deserving memory ; but, alas ! how fleeting
a
arried into
spirit and
:e sufferers
letermined
lawful ac-
od.
le in esta-
ng all cir-
ect some
te settlers,
speration.
;al nature,
2 divided
; rise to a
' humble
rried into
garrison
not, used
i soldier
nd other
tvhich is
scarcely
lian war.
I Wayne
nder the
iced one
1 at least
ected to
fleetins:
109
and short-lived is the remembrance of those who
have served their country^ so well ! Where is the
American who has not heard and admired the
deeds and achievements of Wayne in quelling an
Indian war, and restoring peace with its ten thou,
sand blessmgs to the bleeding fomilies of our fron-
tiers ? And where, let me ask, is his countryman
whose eye refused a tear to his virtues on hearing
of h,s decease? There is none, I believe ; J
yet he lies neglected and forgotten '
The general's grave had been once paled in,
but time had rotted away the principal part. I
replaced It; and should it stand a year, a month,
or even for a day, I have performed a duty. At
the head of the grave is a small misshapen stone,
picked out of the rubbish of the fort, with A. W
the initials of the general's name, scratched with J
nail ! Not even an epitaph. The wretched little
space was yet unoccupied. Could I depart and
eave it still a blank ? No my friend I could not ■
but with my penknife, engraved, in rude but le-'
gible characters, " shime on my country "
The portage from Presque Isle to Fort Le
Beauf, or Waterford, as it has lately been named,
IS fourteen miles ; carriage at one dollar and fifty
cents a barrel, and merchandise at fifty cents a
hundred weight. It is probable these rites my -
in a short time, be somewhat lower, as a turnpike
road over this route will soon be complet d
^ ,.
110
ii
n\>
when a team will be able to carry twice, or even
thrice the weight they do at present.
Although I have travelled many hundred miles
both in our old and new countries, and seen both
rough and disagreeable roads, yet I never saw a
bad road before this. What think you of starting
at sunrise, at this season of the year, when the
days are longest, and making it dark night before
you could whip and spur through fourteen miles of
mud and mire ? a great part of which is up to
vour knees while sitting on the saddle. No doubt
you have seen people treading clay for making
brick ; had you seen me at the time of my arrival
at this place, you would have sworn that man and
horse were both brick makers, for both were lite-
rally covered at least one-half inch thick with mud
from head to foot. I flattered myself, while in this
pickle, that two or three dozen plunges in the ri-
ver, with all my clothes on, would be the most ex-
peditious way of cleansing myself from the mud ;
but I was s.idly disappointed when I arrived at Le
Beauf, to find it necessary to proceed one mile far-
ther to a small lake, as the river or creek was
scarcely covered with four inches of water. Here
I was under the necessity of borrowing a change
of clothing, as my travelling trunk had not yet
come on ; nor did I see any thing of the waggon
until the next day, when it made its appearance
with an additional yoke of oxen. The crippled
condition of the waggon convinced me that it had
ice, or even
ndred miles
d seen both
never saw a
1 of starting
, when the
light before
2en miles of
:h is up to
, No doubt
for making
f my arrival
lat man and
h were lite-
k. with mud
while in this
es in the ri-
he most ex-
tn the mud ;
rrived at Le
ine mile far-
r creek was
vater. Here
iig a change
had not yet
the waggon
appearance
'he crippled
e that it had
ni
seen hard times ; and, upon inquiry, I found the
whole waggon and cargo (by one wheel running over
the stump of a tree) had been overset in a deep
mud hole. My travelling trunk and portable desk,
being on the top of the waggon, were the Jirst
which went in ; and, as all the remainder of the
loading fell more or less upon them, they were
consequently the last taken out. My trunk be-
fore this was not so heavy, but, upon an occasion,
I could carry it a hundred yards; but, at this
time, two teamsters could with difficulty take it
from the waggon. Upon examination I found
my clothing generally spoiled, my notes and pa-
pers defaced and torn, and a small travelling ther-
mometer broken in a thousand pieces. My mis-
fortunes were great, yet, as " whatever is is right,''
I had no reason to complain. I ordered my things
down to the stream, and rolling up my sleeves to
the elbows, endeavoured to make the best of so
bad a bargain.
Tlie teams employed on these roads have gene-
rally t^hree yoke of oxen, who can draw no more
than six barrels of salt, or other goods in propor-
tion, and take from two and a half to three days
to perform the route.
About two miles before you reach this village
you ascend a small eminence which divides the
waters of the Ohio from those descending into the
lakes ; the country otherwise continuing generally
very level. The town of Waterford, which lie's.
! i
112
I t
W
in latitude 41. 2. N. and 79. 53. W. is laid out
on the site of old Fort Le Beauf, the chief part of
which still remains, and the block- house occa-
sionally is jiised for a chapel. The village con-
tains twenty houses, and depends wholly on the
salt trade and boat building for its support. The
land about this neighbourhood is generally of a
strong loam, but the climate has the character of
being cold and variable, and subject to very late
and early frost. Last night we experienced a very
hard one, and this morning its eft'ects were percep-
tible in the common destruction of their melons
and cucumbers, both in fields and gardens. Seve-
ral of the oldest settlers have informed me, that it
was no uncommon thing to have severe frosts
in the months of May, June, July and August,
while their more northern neighbours, along Lake
Erie, are wholly exempted from these inconve-
niences. This town has neither stone nor lime
convenient for building ; but being blessed with
abundance of good wood, their houses are built
entirely of this material. They likewise build a
considerable number of boats, which always find a
ready market below. I shall defer giving you a
description of the boats made use of on the west-
ern waters, until I have a better opportunity of
examining them, especially as I am informed I
shall find a considerable variety below, not made
use of near the head waters.
1
s laid out
ief part of
jse occa-
llage con-
ly on the
ort. The
-ally of a
aracter of
very late
ed a very
e percep-
ir melons
lis. Seve-
fie, that it
ere frosts
August,
3ng Lake
inconve-
nor lime
ised with
are built
' build a
lys find a
ng you a
the west-
rtunity of
formed 1
not made
113
Le Beauf Creek is at present a very smaU
sti-eam, and when largest not more than two rods
wide. It ,s, however, advantageously situated to
collect and receive in its channel the showers
which fall on the iieighbouring hills ; so that five
or SIX hours of any considerable rain will, in twen-
ty-four after, raise the creek to a height of two feet.
Advantage is always taken of these partial freshes,
and ,f you are ready to start before the waters fall
you can always make a good passage. There was'
a very handsome fre.h I am informed last week,
when the creek rose to four feet, and afforded an
excellent opportunity for descending the river-
however, as I did not arrive in time for that con-'
veyance, i must wait for the next. The sky at
preser^t looks somewhat promising, yet, should I
be disappomted, and no rain fall within a day or
two at forthest, I shall purchase a small skiff, so
light that where she will not swim, we can jump
out (Indian hke) and carry her over a shoal. L
has already so much experience that he can see a
rock that stands above the water nearly as far as
myself. I shall not, therefore, hesitate to make
him my first mate. You shall hear from me again
at Pittsburgh. ^
Yours,
VOL. I.
c. s.
114
LETTER XI.
Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Fort Du Quesne,
September 9, 1807.
f )
Dear Friend,
AFTER a passage of six days I at length
arrived at the metropolis and emporium of this
western world; but, before I proceed to say any
thing of this rising and flourishing little city, I
must return to J^e Beauf, and accompany you
down the river.
As I always consider myself a favourite candi-
date for fortune's favour, when no great game is
at stake, so it happened at Le Beauf; for on
the Saturday night after my last it raintd inces-
santly, and on Monday morning the whole little
village was in confusion with the preparations made
the preceding day for starting off with the first of
the flood. There were eight boats in company,
the largest of which hud one hundred barrels of
salt on board.
After leaving the town, and descending Lc
Beauf Creek for half a mile, we entered a small
»M Quesne,
807.
at length
Lim of this
to say any
ittle city, I
npany you
arite candi-
eat game is
if; for on
lintd inces-
whole little
ations made
I the first of
in company,
d barrels of
cending Le
ered a small
lis
stagnant pool, likewise named Lake Le Beauf,
being about two miles in circumlerence ; passing
thence through the outlet five miles farther, we en-
tered French Creek, which comes in from the left
hand side. This stream is about sixty yards wide,
and of a very gentle current, except in some few
places, where it is obstructed by logs, drift-wood,
or sand shallows. From its size and appearance
It may with propriety be denominated a river ; yet,
it is very shallow, and consequently boats are
subject to run aground. When this happens,
all hands jump overboard, and, with the united
exertions of two or three boats' crews, generally
make out to lift and shove a boat over the worst of
the shoals.
After descending the stream fifty-seven miles
we arrived at Meadville, a very thriving and re-
spectable village, containing about one hundred
and twenty houses, and situated on the left bank
of the creek. The country from Fort Le Beauf to
Meadville, on either side of the stream, is a rich
level tract of land, improving very fast ; and the
land immediately around Meadville is a beautiful
rich meadow, yielding already great quantities of
grain and other produce, as well as considerable
droves of excellent cattle for transportation.
About half a mile below this town the Cassawa
Creek falls into French Creek, and is navigable
for I ght craft about ten miles. From Meadville
we descended thirty miles, passing a number
f,Mrwt=
" —- »i:
•■<»K
116
of scattered settlements, but no town until we
arrived at Franklinville, (Fort Franklin,) situated on
the right hand side, at the junction of French
Creek and Alleghany River. This little place
contains no more than ten houses ; it was a post
of consequence during our late Indian wars ; and
the block -house and pickets of the old garrison
still retain a tolerable appearance. It lies in lati-
tude 41. 24. N. and 79. 50. W.
Tlie length of French Creek is about one hun-
dred rniles, and, throughout the whole of this dis-
tance it is bounded on both sides by tracts of low,
rich lands, among which are several natural prai-
ries, producing a strong luxuriant grass, unob-
structed by the growth of a single tree. These
tracts, until very lately, have generally been con-
sidered as of a light soil ; but experience has
shown them to be of the first quality. Here the
emigrant may knock up a hut on the day of his
arrival, set fire to the grass on the next, and on
the third may plough up a field ; his only difiiculty
is that of fencing. Although I am of opinion
that a tract of half prairie and half wood land must
be a most desirable f\cquisition to a new settler,
yet I have strong doubts whether a tract of the
former, situated from one to five miles from any
wood land, from whence all fuel, fencing and
building stuff must be drawn, can be so eligible a
situation as at first strikes our fancy.
until we
ituated on
)f French
ttle place
as a post
vars; and
i garrison
is in lati-
one hun-
f this dis-
'Xs of low,
tural prai-
ss, unob-
;. These
been con-
ience has
Here the
day of his
ict, and on
' difficulty
>f opinion
land must
iw settler,
let of the
I from any
icing and
I eligible a
111
The Alleghany river is certainly the most beau-
tiful stream of water that I have ever seen ; it is as
clecir and transparent as the lakes, and its current
as gentle as can be^ wished, while its bed is so
very little obstructed by shoals that ft may be na-
vigated in safety. It is true, when the water is
low, you will find here and there a rock lodged in
the channel ; but, as it is always necessary to have
a pilot on board, when descending with loaded
bo'ats, they are so well acquainted with these little
obstructions that an accident seldom or ever oc
curs.
This river takes its rise in Pennsylvania, near
the State of New- York, where it passes a short
distance into the latter, and returns into the former ;
thence running the whole of the remainder of its
course through this State, until its junction with
the Monongahela at Pittsburgh. It is navigable
for a distance of two hundred miles.
Another head water of this river takes its rise in
Chautaughque Lake, situate in the western ex-
tremity of the State of New- York ; thence passing
down the Connewango River, falls into the Alle-
ghany, about twenty miles after it passes the boun-
dary line between the States of New- York and
Pennsylvania. This route, as I have before no-
ticed, being much the shortest, and aftbrding a
much easier portage between the two lakes, will,
in the course of a few years, be preferred to that
of French Creek and Le Beauf ; but, as at present,
^immmif0'-.--r<^'
118
from the want of hands and boats, it does not in-
sure so certain or ready a conveyance ; it is very
little frc'ciuented, and its advantages consequently
but very little know.i.
After leaving Fort Franklin about nine miles,
we were shown a large rock, on the left shore
of the river, which is known by the name of
" Indian's God." I had the curiosity to land, in
order to examine the " outlandish marks" which
were sitid to be inscribed upon ii; but, upon investi-
gation, found they were nothing more than the ac-
cidental crevices made by time, which might well
enough pass for Arabic or Chaldaic characters with
those who could not read their own mother
tongue.
The Alleghany River, at its junction with
French Creek, is about twenty yards wide, and
continues gradually to increase as you descend.
The junction ol' Toby Creek with the main river
takes place from the left hand side, about forty-five
miles below Fort Franklin ; it is a handsome
stream, about foity yards wide, and navigable for
small craft fifty miles. Fifteen miles lower we
perceived Sandy Lick Creek coming in from the
same side. This stream is somewhat larger than the
former, yet not navigable for quite the same dis-
tance. Passing thence seven miles, we crossed the
mouth of Mahoning Creek. This stream is about
fort^ yards wide, falls in from the left hand side,
and is also navigable for small craft. Alter having
119
es not in*
it is very
sequeptly
tie miles,
eft shore
name of
) land, in
s" which
>n investi-
m the ac-
iight well
cters with
1 mother
ion with
vide, and
descend,
(lain river
forty-five
landsome
igable for
ower we
from the
r than the
same dis-
•ossed the
I is about
land side,
cr having
descended eighty-five miles from Fort Franklin,
we arrived at the town of Armstrong, situated on
the left bank of the river. This, being as yet quite
a new settlement, contains no more than twenty
houses.
The land on both sides of this river, for the
whole distance, from the junction of French Creek
to this last named town, is a high, rough and
mountainous country, and scarcely worth cultiva-
tion along the banks of the river. Thisobserva-
tion, however, I am informed, does nof hold good
after you recede a mile or two from the margin of
the river, where the land improves rapidly, both in
quality and appearance.
Twelve miles below the town of Armstrong,
and from the same JJe, the Kiskemanitas River
forms its junction with the Alleghany ; it is the
largest tributary stream you pass on the main river ;
is seventy yards wide at its mouth, and navigable
for a distance of one hundred and fifteen miles.
The acquisition of this stream is immediately per-
ceptible, as the Alleghany now acquires a breadth
of about one hundred and fifty yards. Three miles
below the Kiskemanitas, and on the opposite side,
we were instructed to look out for a small town
called Freeport. This town brought to my recol-
lection the story of " a country lad coming with
" his father to see the town, but could never get a
" sight of it for the vast number of houses." So
120
:
l!
4
here I could not see the houses for the trees, as
tliose intended for the buildings had not yet been
cut down. Immediately below this town, and on
the siimc side, you pass BufFuloe Creek, whigh is
about thirty yards wide, but not navigable. From
thence we descended thirty miles more, without
meeting with any thing worthy of notice, until we
arrived at Pittsburgh, which is reckoned two hun-
dred and forty miles from the head waters of Le
Beauf.
As I write wholly for your amusement, I know
you will not be displeased if I entertain you occa-
sionally with an account of some of my exploits and
achievements, as one of the mighty hunters of the
western wilderness ; and, therefore, with beqpming
pride, inform you that, on my passage to this place,
I shot a bear! yes, sir, I repeat it, I shot a bear! ! and
a big one too he was. The particulars are worth re-
cording, and are as follows : While we were de-
scending the river one of our hands discovered a
large bear swimming across the stream ; we exert-
ed our utmost force to overtake him before he
could reach the shore, which, by dint of hard row-
ing, we ettected. The captain and myself stood
ready in the bow to fire whenever we thought our-
selves sufficiently near for that purpose. I pulled
my trigger, but my gun flashed in the pan. The
captain then pulled his, and shot the bear dead.
Not knowing whether I should ever have anothe*'
~T'.-^i-,# »^ »ir. » ' '
"If.-j^.m
.?;"<?,■ J, ',!«••*'•■'
121
chance ,0 shoo, such a monster. I recollected
Falstaff's fight with Percy." so primed and
pulled mgger once more, and shot the bear too.
Although the shot just, mentioned was not ex-
actly m pouit of time what I could wish, yet you
must know .hut on the same day, I really and
J^l'-M" shot a deer ou the edge of the bank
of the nver. This being the fi„, I had shot, al-
though I had seen dozens of them before, inclines
me to thmk Ae sfielt is broken. I discovered him
as we descended the river , and, as he had not yet
we had drifted close upon him. without his beinit
m the least alarmed , when I fired, and killed him
on the spot, without any previous asmtancc- from
the eaptain. You would have been highly di
verted could you have taken a peep at our party
while preparing and eating our supper on t J
evening. You will please to remember that, as we
lodge every night under the canopy of heavn we
are not so much troubled with preparing out bed
as with preparing our food, and, as our cook b
not over and above cleanly, („o, having any thing
better than a handful of leaves to wi^ '.i; uten •
sils,) I prefer attending to a broil for myself. We
had made choice on that evening of a place for
our encampment, where a very large pine xr^ had
been blown down by some storm , and, in a few
mmutes. our different crews had kindled as many
VOL. I. _ J
fl -^
• ■ V'^'J
■^
**^.l
'*'■ "♦:
"T-IT"
\IA
'i%
I
■'fi
.
k
,122
firps, which soon spread along the whole tnmk of
the tree, not kss than one hundred and twenty feet
ui length, a;-.d exhibited as picturesqae a groupe
as ever was seen. Every man being provided
with a forked stick, with a piece of venison stuck
up(in one end, was endeavouring to broU or roast
his portion as best suited his fancy. Some would
let it fall into the fire ; others, who had laid it on
coals to broil, could not again approach near
enough to siive it from burning, as the fire became
so great, and tlie heat so intense, as to keep them
at a distance. Those who had succeeded stuck
one end of their forked stick in the ground, with
the venison susjxmded upon the other ; while,
with a piece of bread in one hand, and a knife in
the odier, they contentedly devoured it as fast as
it cooled. Our company consisting of forty-two
persons, the deer did not furnish an overabundant
supper, nothing being left for the morrow.
I had never seen a wild turkey before i descend-
ed this river, where I had an opportunity of shoot-
ing a great many. They are very plentiiul in this
quarter, and considered the largest known through-
out the western countrj', many of them weighing
from thirty to forty pounds, and sometimes so
overburthencd with fat that thiy fly with difficulty.
It frequently happens, that after shooting one on
a tree, you will find him bursted by falling on the
trround ; thev are remarkably tame, and, if alarm-
ed, generally take to a tree, especially if disturbed
^ -"S
^-m-t:
«,■*■«?»—
e trunk of
went}' feet
I a groupe
provided
ison stuck
>il or roast
)me would
, laid it on
oach near
ire became
keep them
ded stuck
>und, with
;r ; while,
a knife in
: as fast as
f forty-two
erabundant
ow.
i descend-
ty of shoot-
tiful in this
n through-
II weighing
[letimes so
1 difficulty,
ing one on
ling on the
d, if alarm-
if disturbed
123
by a dog. 1 found my air gun of great use in
shooting this game, for if there were five or six of
them. upon one tree, I was always sure of bringing
them all down.
This river affords fine pike and cat fish ; many
of those I Caught weighed thirty pounds and up-
wards. There is no great variety of small fish in the
main river ; nOr is there much chance of taking any
of the larger kind during the day time, unless you
troll with a very long line ; but by setting your
bait at night in the little bays and eddies, you will
generally prove successful. I have been well as-
sured that this river produces a fish which, from
its resemblance to the alligator, is called the Alle-
ghany alligator fish. Those who have seen them
assure me they are perfectly harmless, and never
exceed eighteen inches or two feet in length. Not-
withstimding, during the whole navigation of this
river, I was constantly on the look out to get a
sight of this fish, yet 1 never succeeded, and, there-
fore, am unable either to confirm or deny the ex-
istence of this non descript.
I have seen very few Indians since I left Lake
Erie, excepting a few Sanduskies, who had been
at the council meeting held at Buffaloe, and whom
I met, as they passed through Presque Isle, on
their way home. We likewise passed half a do-
zen canoes full belonging to the Cornplanters,
a tribe settled on the head waters of the Alle-
'^*i^^"
'"•>r"
124
I
;,< i
ghany, and which, I am told, is the only one
that has prohibited the use of spirituous liquors
to its members. Whenever an individual breaks
through this regulation he is discarded from the
tribe, and for ever after deemed infamous.
Pittsburgh is most charmingly situated upon a
point of land formed by the confluence of the Mo-
nongahela and the Alleghany Rivers, which here
give rise to the celebrated Ohio. The natural ad-
vantages which this place possesses are so great,
that it may justly be considered as the metropolis
of the western country. It contains between
four and five hundred houses, many of which
would be called elegant even in the city of New-
York. From the best information I could collect,
it is supposed to contain at least two thousand
five hundred inhabitants, the most of .whom are
German and Irish settlers, from various parts of
Pennsylvania and Marvland.
This town has likewise a number of public
buildings, principally built of brick; among
which you find a large and convenient gaol, court-
house, markel-housc, and four churches. There
are probably between sixty and seventy stores,
generally well stocked with every kind of goods,
and afforded reasonably cheap, considering the dis-
tance they have to bring them over land from
Philadelphia and Baltimore ; the former, of which
place)* is reckoned two hundred and ninety-seven
„a~^v^'
'tj,"
only one
us liquors
Lial breaks
I from the
.s.
:d upon a
f the Mo-
hich here
latural ad-
so great,
metropolis
between
of which
of New-
Id collect,
thousand
^hom are
5 parts of
)f public
among
j1, court-
There
y stores,
>f goods,
; the dis-
md from
>f which
ty-seven
125
miles, and the latter two hundred and eighty.five
miles distant. The price of waggon carriage over
this distance is five and six dollars a hundred
pounds weight.
Pittsburgh has likewise a considerable number
of factories established already, among which may
be enumerated distilleries, brewerie., printing
presses, an air furnace, a glass house, and cotton
factory ; likewise, smaller establishments for the
manufacture of nails, brushes, ropes, copper ware,
tin ware and earthen ware, with many others
too tedious to mention. A branch of the Penn-
sylvania bank has likewise been established here.
Pittsburgh appears to be in the " full tide of sue
" cessful experiment," and promises fair, within
thirty years more, to be the largest inland city in
the United States. The climate is nearly similar to
that of New- York, being situated in latitude 40.
26. N. and 79. 51. W. and subject to as great
and sudden changes of weather.
Tlie goods intended for New- Orleans, Ken-
tucky and Tennessee markets are principally ship-
ped off from this place, although, during the dry
season, .which generally prevails in the months of
August and September, the waters are so low that
a loaded boat cannot descend the river. Those
liov/ever, who are accustomed to navigate this
river, always make their calculations accordingly,
and when they find they will not be enabled to
reach Pittsburgh in time, generally order their
■> f
126
I I
■I
Pi
■m
! !
»
•^' tl
r-i '
goods to Wheeling, another town, lying about
ninety miles lower down the river, from whence
the Wdter is deep enough at all seasons of the
year.
The town of Pittsburgh is abundantly supplied
with fuel, liaving inexhaustible mines of coal in
its vicinity, which, from the cheapness of labour,
are delivered at the houses for six cents a bushel.
It is conjectured that not less than five thousand
five hundred chaldron are consumed annually by
the town and factories. The first entry into Pitts-
burgh is not equally agreeable to every person, as
the sulphureous vapour arising from the burning of
coal is immediately perceptible ; a few days re-
sidence will, hov^^•ver, in a great measure accus-
tom yoti to this inconvenience. Ship building is
carried on here with considerable spirit ; they
have already launched about one dozen brigs and
schooners ; at present I see nothing on th*^ stocks
Uirger than a hundred feet barge. Boat buidtng^
boaf buying and boat sellings seem to be part of
the business of at least one-half of the town. Very
few of the boats which come from the rivers
above, or are built in this towi. and descend the
river, ever return again ; so that there is a constant
and increased demand for craft of every descrip-
tion.
A passage from Le Beauf to this place will cost
you two dollars, finding your own provisions. If
no opportunity offers you can have a small skiff
127
built in twenty.four hours for five dollars, which
will carry two men and baggage, with which you
may descend in all imaginable safety. For thirty
dollars you may purchase a large skiff or batteau,
which will very easily carry twelve thousand
weight. The freight from Le Beauf to Pitts-
burgh is one dollar a barrel, and merchandise at
fifty cents a hundred pounds.
The Monongahela River rises in the State of
Virginia, at the foot of that ridge known by the
name of the Laurel Mountains ; it is navigable
for one hundred miles from its mouth at Pitts-
burg. The Youghiogany River falls into the
Monongahela, about fifeen miles above the town,
and is said to be likewise navigable for eighty
miles.
I was informed that there was a very curious
cavern about sixty miles up the Monongahela,
known by the name of the Panther's Den. I
should have been happy, if I had leisure sufficient,
to have visited it, particularly as I could not find
any one who could give me a description from
their own personal examination ; but, as I have
yet some thousands of miles before me, atid the
water rapidly falling, I did not think it prudent lo
lose time. I have purchased a keel bout com-
pletely equipped for my voyage, for which I paid
one hundred and thirty dollars. I have issued
SHiling, or rather driftinsr orders, for to-moiTow
iii
I
„„._„. :i*sC.
"*<ite»*
128
morning, when I shall commence my voyage on
« La BeUe Riviere." You will probably hear
from me again when I arrive at Marietta, when I
shall endeavour to give you some accpunt of the
different kind of boats in use on these waters.
if' *'■
Yours,
C. S.
t
■*''^
c. s.
^
■^1 •;;;/K5V
•^w^iHr
«3fcH*fc
'Hf
w
Ohm
Dear '.
m\
count <
on thes
your ci
of craft
perrogu
suflicier
twelve t
all sizes,
pounds \
as the lai
by either
these wat
fer to tho
Kentucky
fomi, var
length, an
are built o
are sided i
VOL. r.
I
-*^%,
129
^fTTEn XII.
^^">' f^rietfa, (Fort Barm^
Rear Frier, J,
^r,) Sept. 20, 1807.
IN my last I promisi H ♦« •
count of the mJJZ^L If T, '" "™ ''^-
on these waters anA? n ^"" ""* '« of
of cn.f. i„ „^ ,„, ,i J-'- J^te smallest kind
Pe^eues. which ^ a , ^. ^nd of """ '*"
suflicienUy strone- anri . • "'^'^^no^' but
»« sizes, from Sve h„n^ T' ®*"=b«atof
pounds weight burthen b1'° '"""'^ "«»'«'"d
as the larger tindrfl^ff,^'"'!"''"^ "^ *e sa,„e
by either^name Art't """^ '"**«"% known
these waters; what til r ""' """* '" "« '"
^-o those ;ou*:Jrsel;T-?rT'"^-
Kentucky boats are st .„" fr * «"»J"*»nna;-
form, varying i„ si,, frn / ° ^ ""on,.
'eng'h, and LI ^n ,o &"« '' '° '"" ' ' '"
-built of stou.sq.^iTl'r" **^-
-- sided and ^ofe' i„, Z^Ltt "" *^^
vol. r. ' ^""""^h 'he appearance
A
•^■^;f?at-
^jrtr'J'''*'
■I
if
If
130
of old graving scows, excepting that the front
part or bow has somtwhut of a rake. The
gunwales ai« generally from twelve to twenty,
four inches high, and from three to six inches
thick ; on the top of these are mortised square
joist of three or four feet in length, and four or
five inches thick, which are sided up like a house
with ordinary boards ; on the top of these studs
are secured the foot of each rafter, over which the
roof is laid, which likewise answers the purpose of
a main and (luarter deck ; they arc steered by a
long swing oar of the whole length of the boat, and
generally have from one to tliiee hands to manage
a boat, having frequent occasion, when heavily
loadexl, to use ^heir unwieldy oars, in order to
keep nearly in the middle of the river. Some of
these floating machines, with a shed roof, bear a
very striking resemblance to what you daily see in
the streets of Ncw-York, where new houses are
building, and generally Renominated a lime-
house.
New- Orleans boats are built upon the same
model as the Kentucky boats, excepting that they
'^ are generally much larger and stronger, with
an arched roof fore and aft. When I first saw a
row of these boats lying high and dry on the shore
at Pittsburgh, I really concluded 'hey were de-
tached pieces of some large rope- walk which had
been carried off bv the freshes from above. The
largest boats of this kind will carry four hundred
■M
t.
' dfilK^^wfk\f-^
'^^^.
,*,:
131
he front
. The
twenty -
it inches
d square
1 four or
; a house
ese studs
vhich the
urpose of
ed by a
boat, and
3 manage
n heavily
order to
Some of
of, bear a
lily see in
louses are
a lime-
the same
; that they
iger, with
lirst saw a
1 the shore
■ were de-
which had
)ve. The
ir hundred
and fifty barrels of flour. Keel Ijoats arc very dif-
ferent fi om what their name would seem to imply
to a strauf^er who has never seen one, especially
to an inhabitant of a sea-port, where the name
is always applied to siiiling boats, piirticulnrly
those kinds that can beat up against a wind. Here,
however, it is given to a species of the S(,hen<:c-
tady boats, which you will find particularly dc-
scribtd in my account of the navigation of the
M-ohawk River. The principal diftlrence con-
sists in this, that the timbers or knees of these are
built upon a small keel, about three inches in
depth, and four or five in width ; from which cir-
cumstimce they are denominai..d keel boats. I
have no douljt but the keel is an additional
strength to the boat, as it receives the first shock
of any obstruction m the navigation, which other-
wise would fall immediately upon the planking ;
but at the same time it makes a draft of three
inches more water than Schenectady boats of the
same size and burthen. These boiUs are generally
built from forty to eighty feet in length, and from
seven to nine feet in width ; the largest kind re-
quire but one hand to steer and two to row, in
descending the Ohio, and will carry aljout one
hundred barrels of salt ; but, to ascend the stream,
they will require at least six or eight hands to
make any considerable progress.
The last and best kind of boats used on the
Ohio and Mississippi is what is called a baige.
e%-.
I
4
132
You will have a tclemble correct idea of this kind
^vhen you see a ship's longboat, or those used at
the feiTy from the city of New- York to Long
Island, adding thereto about three times the length
and a proportionable depth, their width being ge-
nerally between seven and ten feet. These boats
are steered by a rudder, and are easily managed
while they have any war/ upon them ; but when
descending with the force of the current alone, are
not so easily twisted and turned as a keel bolt is
by her long steering oar. A barge will carry from
forty to sixty thousand weight, and requires four
hands besides the helmsman to descend the river ;
but, to return with a loading, from eight to twelve
become necessary. Barges, as well as keel boats,
generally carry a moveable mast a-midships, and,
whenever the wind will permit, set a square-sail,
and some few top-sails. A small fleet of si.^^ or
seven of these vessels coming up before a wind
at a distance of three or four miles, is equally as
pleasing a sight in this countiy, as an equal num-
ber of the largest square-rigged vessels entering
the harbour of New- York.
The prices of the various kinds of boats already
described are as follows : Canoes from one to
three dollars ; perrogues from five to twenty ;
small skiffs from five to ten dollars ; large skiffs
or batteaux from twenty to fifty ; arks one dol-
Irr a foot in length ; Kentucky and New-Orleims
boats from one dollar to one and a half a foot ;
keel boats from two and a half to three dollars I
153
b,„ T .u '^"="™'"7 prices for new boats •
but from the constan. influx of boats of everv dl'
-np„o„ do™ the Monongahela and AlW«„r
R.vers whose destination is no farther than Pi ./
burgh, b<.ats may often be had at ven^" du"d
a^rnt"fT I '"^' ^'""^ '"rougir::;'":;
aecount of the .A^^,„^ of j^is western world I
.■us town to Fort M'Intosh is th'Jit Z
hndcontn,ues high on both sides' of S hI^T
every eonsiden.b,e CoU^ oTT "'*
*ese heights are said to be vet exe Lt . T' °'
the produce, which is whea^mrh ' ' "'"'
We «>» the bottoms, wh h vWd "":".P™«'^-
corn. Before I left Pit^b^^'f ? T^ '"'
" Navigator," a kind of "t?" or'" H^f'
" Moore," for these water; .,'], 1 "r"'°"
PWet, but contains a gre L J r?"" '""•
cellaneous inform.tinn ^ '^'' =""" ■"'="
b'e to a stranger "' " P"^^"''"'^ -™-'-
Fort M'Intosh, or as if So
Beaver, is a s„.al vi L; owrf"?" ""^'''
houses, lying i„_,He Sta' o vZZl:^''' ""^
"8fc bank of the river. Big b" vT r . °" "''
-'-^'-theo,.iojnst^trthe:tr.
M
m
134
give, name to the village. This stream furnishes
a number of very valuable mill- seats, within the
distance of four miles from the river ; and has
likewise been said to afford an easy communica-
tion by a short portage with Lake Erie ; but, on
inquiry, I am informed it can never be used by
any thing larger than a canoe.
Ten miles lower, on the left side, lies George-
town, consisting of fifteen houses, and borders on
tht State of Virginia. The character of George-
to^vn is not much esteemed by the navigators
of the Ohio ; it is particularly pointed out as
being inhabited by a set of quarrelsome fellows,
amongst whom their chief magistrate is said
to be a very prominent character. About two
miles below Georgetown you cross the dividing
line between the States of Pennsylvania;, and Vir-
ginia, on the left hand side of the river; an<^ be-
tween the Suites of Pennsylvania and Ohio on the
right hand side. Five miles below the line, you
arrive at the first post town in the State of Ohio ;
it contains two houses, and if it has a name I
have forgotten it. This place is on the right hand
side of the river.
Descending thence twelve miles we arrived at
Steubenville, a handsome, flourishing town, situa-
ted on the right bank of the river, likewise in the
State of Ohio ; it contains about one hundred and
thirty houses, has a number of genteel brick
buildings, and several stores well stocked witli
135
rumishcs
ithin the
and has
imunica-
; but, on
used by
George-
orders on
George-
lavigators
d out as
e fellows,
e is said
bout two
; dividing
and Vir-
; and be-
iiio on the
line, vou
of Ohio;
a name I
right hand
arrived at
3wn, situa-
kvise in the
uidred and
iteel biick
icked with
every kind of merchandise. Superfine flour was
selling here at the same price as at Pittsburgh,
which was from three dollars to three and a half
a barrel ; Indian com at twenty cents a bushel, and
other articles of produce in proportion.
Charlestown is also pleasantly situated on the
left bank of the river, in the State of Virginia, and
only seven miles from Steubenville ; it contains
about one hundred and ten houses, is a county town,
and has a flourishing earthen ware manufactory.
Buffaloe Creek is a capital mill stream, and falls
hito the Ohio, about three miles below Mingo
Bottom, so called from its having been the resi-
dence of a tribe of that name, whose chief is
celebrated for hi* powers of oratory and his un-
meriteC* misfortunes in the Notes on Virginia.*
* In the year 1774 a ba«Ie «m fought near the present
town of Point Pleasant, at the motnh of (iw. Great Kanawa
River, between the united tribes ^ the Shawi«»«« and Min-
goes, and a party of the VirgtoK* niMtia. The Indians
were completely routed, and sued Ijr « peace Logan
(whose family had been most cruelly W&5liered, in cold
blood, by a wretch of tlie name of Cre^jup) hitd taken a
very active part in the wur, yet scorned to be seen with
those who were supplicating for a peace, Lest, however,
the smcerity of others should be mistrusted on account of
the absence of so distinguished a warrior, he sent the fol-
lowing speech to Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Vir-
ginia :
" I appeal to any white man to say if ever he en»«red
" Logan's cabin hungry, and he gave huii not meat ; if aver
I
136
II'
H
%
The lands about Charld-Stown are not consider-
ed equally good with those in the neighbourhood
of Steubenville. Nine miles below Charlestown
we passed a little town named Warren, situated on
the right bank of the Ohio, and consisting of thirty
houses. From hence, having descended ten miles
more, we arrived at Wheeling, a town of considera-
ble trade and importance on these western waters.
It lies hi latitude 40. 5. N. and 80. 34. W.
This town is situated on an elevated bank, on
the left side of the river, in the State of Virginia,
and contains at present about two hundred houses,
amongst which are a very considerable number of
" he came cold and naked and he clothed him not.. Du-
« ring the course of the lust long and bloody war, Logan
« remuined idle in his cabin, an advocate for peace. Such
« was my love for the whites, that my conntrymen, as they
« passed, pointed, and said Loffan ia the friend of the white
« men. I had even thought to have lived with you, but
« for the injuries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last
« spring, in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the
" relations of Logan, not sparing even my women and
« children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the
« veins of any living creature. This called on me for re-
« venge. I have sought it : I have killed many : I have
« glutted my vengeance. For my country, I rejoice at the
" beams of peace ; but do not harbour a thought that minr
" is the joy of fear. Logan never felt fear. He will never
« turn on his heel to save his life. Who is there to mourn
" for Logan ? Not one."
1
I
137
stores, well supplied with every kind of merchan-
dise, suitable for the country. It takes away a
considerable trade from Pittsburgh, being so
situated that vessels may descend from it during
the dryest seasons of the year; many of the
lower country merchants, therefore, prefer send-
ing their goods over land to this place, rather than
risk a detention of three or four weeks at Pitts-
burgh.'
A mail stage arrives at Wheeling regularly
twice a week from Philadelphia, and another line
continues on to Lexington, the capital of Ken-
tucky, so that this town may fairly be considered
as within the limits of the old settlements.
The land immediately in the vicinity of Wheel-
ing is rough and mountainous ; but, at some little
distance back, improves very fast. Considerable
boat building is likewise carried on at this place ;
and, if I may judge from the stock of one man,
bear raising must be either an employment of
profit or pleasure, as he had no less than five of
these monsters, all nearly full grown, chained to as
many posts in the front of his house ; and, accord-
ing to his own expression, " would rather lose his
" child than one of them." This town is reckoned
to be about ninety miles distant from Pittsburgh,
according to the meanders of the river. Wheel-
ing Creek falls into the Ohio about half a mile be-
low the town, and aftbrds some excellent mill-
VOL. I.
138
»eats. Not far from its mouth is stiU to be seen
the remains of the old fort.
Seven miles below Wheeling we passed a little
deserted village, of six or seven cabins, situated
on the right bank of the river, and named Pultney.
I could not learn from what cause it had been
abandoned, but presume its inhabitants must have
been of that class of people denominated Squat-
ters, who, not having any title, had been ordered off
by the proprietors. From Pultney down to Grave
Cif ek, which is eight miles distant, is a fine rich
tract of bottom land, on the Virginia shore, said
to be worth from ten to fifteen dollars per acre,
unimproved ; but, whether it is owing to the high
price of the land, or to some other cause, it lias very
few settlements upon it.
I was informed there were several of those sin-
gular and astonishing mounds, which have exci-
ted the curiosity of travellers, to be seen near
Grave Creek. We had already passed them three or
four miles before I was apprized of their vicinity,
and I had some inclination to halt and travel up
on foot, in order to take a view of them ; but, as
I had been told We should find a much greater
variety as we descended to Marietta, I did not
think it prudent to lose any time. Our pilot, inform-
ed me that he had encamped one night, some years
ag' , on h largest oi them, and described it as
" being about sixty or seventy feet in height, with
159
" the top cut ofF, and overgrown with trees of the
" largest size." Seacoal appears to be very
abundant throughout this country, and in many
places lying so convenient to the river, that you
may lay a boat along side of the bank, and shovel
it in with very little trouble.
After leaving Pultney we passed a considerable
number of settlements on both sides of the river,
but siiw no more towns until we arrived at Mari-
etta, situated on the right side of the river, in the
State of Ohio, at a distance below Pittsburgh of
about one hundred and eighty miles.
This voyage is generally performed in five days,
and a passage on board a trading boat will cost
two dollars, exclusive of provisions. Freight to
this place is one dollar a barrel, and merchandise
at fifty cents a hundred pounds weight ; but con-
siderably lower when destined for a distance
of eight or ten hundred miles. Most people,
however, find it cheaper to purchase some kind
of a boat, and freight their own goods; while
those who travel for improvement or amusement
will always prefer having a boat at their own com-
mand, to being confined in one of the trading
boats, where you can have no will of your own.
To those who wish to travel as economical as pos-
sible, it will be advisable to take a passage on
board boats of the latter description, where the
whole voyage to New- Orleans, a distance of two
I
^i
I
140
thousand two hundred miles, will not cost more
than from five to ten dollars.
The Ohio, as yet, has not produced us any fish,
and, although this may be owing in some measure
to a want of industry on our part, yet I am incli-
ned to believe it is not so well stocked with fish as
it has been represented to be. The river is sub-
ject to rise very suddenly in many places, when
the current becomes proportionably rapid. Fish
generally seek for still water, and as this is only
to be found in deep holes, or under projecting
points of land, we are not to expect to find many
in- the stream. I have seen several dry salted cat
fish which weighed twelve and fourteen pounds,
and, probably, when first caught, not less than for-
ty. I have indeed been assured, by a respectable
gentleman, that many are frequently caught which
weigh from fifty to ninety pounds. I have seen a
few cat fish, buffaloe fish, sun fish, perch, chub,
suckers and herrings ; but no sturgeon or pike.
The herring, which here take the hook, are exact-
ly the same with our long summer herrings, with
this difference, that our's never take the hook.
The river water is generally used by all the set-
tiers on its banks for every culinary as well as ta-
ble use. This is a particular hardship to those ac-
customed to drink clear water only ; for, although
the Ohio is equally well tasted with the best of
brook water, yet, at this season, it is thick and
turbid, and the thousands of dead squirrels putre-
m-'
141
fying on its surface and its shores, contribute very
httle to render it more agreeable.
The Ohio River, as far as I have seen, is cer-
tamly the handsomest stream in our countiy, and
contmues, as I am informed, to improve in beauty
and size as you descend. The velocity of the
current at present is two miles an hour, and in
freshes may be rated on an average at no more
than three and a half. The stream is at all times
smooth and gentle, very little obstructed by sunk-
en logs or trees, so that, with keeping one hand
to look out, you may glide along twenty and
twenty.five miles of a night, in the greatest
security.
We have already passed t^venty.seven islands,
some of which contain upwards of one thousand
acres of land ; many, however, lie so low as to be
entirely useless, from the frequent inundations oc-
casioned by the sudden rise of the river.
It is astonishing to what a height the freshes
generally rise on this river; and, to you, it will
appear difficult to believe that they frequently
exceed forty feet of perpendicular height. The
lodges of drift wood in the trees on the bunks
as likewise the wharf at Marietta, however, fully
confirm the truth of this assertion, the latter
bemg forty feet in height, and the river at present
three feet below its foundation.
14fi
m
1 f
' i
, ■
In describing my course down the river to this
place, I neglected to inform you, that five miles
above Marietta, on the right hand side, we passed
tlie Little Muskingum River, a considerable
stream, which there falls into the Ohio ; and, two
miles lower, on the same side, another considera-
ble, but smaller, stream, called Duck Creek. Both
of these streams liave a neat and handsome bridge
across them, of which we had a full view in de-
scending the Ohio.
The town of Marietta lies on the right bank of
the Ohio ; and is handsomely situated on both
sides of the Muskingum River. The first im-
provements, and consequently the most nume-
rous, were made on the upper side ; but the lower
being found to be one or two feet higher, consi-
derable improvements are likewise making there.
Marietta contains about one hundred and eighty
houses, amongst which are several that may be
considered not only genteel, but even elegant. It
is a county town, has a market, printing office,
several mercantile stores, and a great variety of
mechanics. Ship building is carried on with more
spirit than at any other town on the Ohio ; and,
notwithstanding the loss of two fine ships on the
falls last year, there are now on the stocks three
ships of about three hundred tons burthen each,
and two large brigs, besides smaller craft. The
former will be ready to descend the river with the
earliest spring freshes, ^vhen they will be loaded
.s
t^n-
i'ii
'3
4
143
with the p! luce of the counti v, ai ady »o con-
vey it to the the most distant ot the globe.
The price for ship building he is fitty dollars i
ton, rigged and equipped compi ly for sea.
These vessels arc built r the Musi ingum Ri-
ver, which, although at present .ordable, is a very
considerable stream, being nearly two hi red
yards wide, and naviga!)le for keel boi s oni mn-
dred and forty miles. One of its branches is said
to communicate, by a portage of seven miles, with
the Cayahaga, which empties into Lake Erie, and,
when the waters are high, may be navigated to
within one mile of each other. Fort Harmar, a
post of some consequence in our late Indian wars,
was buih on the lower side of the Muskingum ,'
it is now gone to ruin, as the increased population
of the country has, in a manner, rendered it en-
tirely unnecessary.
Marietta may be considered as New- England in
miniature ; her inhabitants are sober, honest, reli-
gious and industrious, while dissipation and irra-
tional amusements are not kno\vn in her friendly
circles. I think I may venture to say, in propor-
tion to her population, there is no town on this
side of the mountains, not even excepting Pitts-
burgh itself, can rival Marietta in the number of
her enterprising and well informed citizens.
This town lies in latitude 39. 25. N. and 81. 19.
W. the climate is said to be I'ar more temperate
and settled than in the same latitude on the coast.
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The produce of the country is the same as with
vou, excepting that they raise some small crops of
coarse cotton, calculated only for tlie manufacture
of homespun. The only fruits I have met with,
Tvith which you are unacquainted, are the man-
drake and papaw. The former grows in the crotch
ot a small shrub, in the open places of woods ;
in shape, size and colour it very much resembles
a lime, excepting the colour being of much
lighter yellov/ ; in taste it approaches nearest to
the pineapple. The papaw is about the size of a
cucumber, and something of that shape, but
is perfectly smooth ; they grow in clusters of
three, four and five together, on trees about twen-
ty or thirty ^eet high. The fruit at this time is
quite green, therefore I am unable to speak from
experience, and say they are " truly delicious."
This tree, however, has one very peculiar quality,
which seems to indicate the richness of its fruit,
namely, that it is never found except upon the
richest bottoms.
I propose spending to-morrow in taking a more
particular view of the ancient works and fortifica-
tions in the neighbourhood of this town, of which
I know you will expect me to say something-. I
have already taken a cursory view of them ; but,
as I shall have an opportunity of resting here for a
day or two longer, my next shall be devoted to
this subject.
side.
1
The feny al this place, across the Muskingunj
River, is established upon a curious and yet very
simple plan. They prepare a flat boat, with a sin-
gle lee-board fixed to the middle of the upper
side which is then secured by a painter at
each end to a strong hawser, stretched across the
river from bank to bank ; to the end of each
pamter is affixed a kind of travelling block,
which runs along the hawser ; and whenever the
boat IS to move, the stem rope is slacked up two
or three feet, the lee-board let down, and. she
passes over to the other shore without any other
assistance than the pressure of the current upon
the lee-board. When they wish to return they re-
verse the management, by taking in the slack of*
what was the stem rope, which converts the former
stem to her present stem, when she proceeds as
before to the opposite shore.
U
Yours,
C. S.
VOL. I.
:}
k*"!]
5SWV
■«.•••■
14,6
LETTER Xin.
Ohh, Marietta, September 21, 1807 >
Dear Friend*
■;< 'v
,* -•
? '<.» *
BEING just returned irom my excursion to
examine what is called Ae Indian antiquities of
this country, I now devote the evening to your
^amusenientj My notes and observations, such as
they are, must furnish the subject-
If the small and imperfect samples of ancient
fortifications found in our own State have excited
so much wonder as to their founders, how much
more cause have we for astonishment when view-
ing works of such surprising extent and grandeur
as those bf the ancients in this part of our coun-
try?
That a country, which has generally been reputed
as buried in the most abject ignorance and barbarism,
or but lately peopled by some accidental emigra-
tion from that part of Asia which approaches very
near to our continent, should produce such monu-
m'^'.nts of its antiquity, population, industry , and a
competent knowledge of the arts and sciences to
i%.
■)-*t:i'
21, 1807>
:ursion to
quities of
g to your
i, such as
f ancient
e excited
ow much
»en view-
grandeur
ur coun-
n reputed
irbarism,
I emigra-
•hes very
h monu-
rj , and a
ences to
M:
-/. jRcunjmrts
2. Sertijcircular Ti'hlfs
3. OvalMoHftds
4. Oval aiid Circular raised 3£(yiaitls
6. Burial Ground
6. Srnallext elevatfd St/uare
7. -Larffest elevated S^ttare
8. Jilevatpd Square
■f> Parajfett and uMinJid
/'J/ovi-mA- .uiilfi. A;-u;ii/i ,
^^9^^^^F^mmmmmmKm
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«•.»
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,:iisi.4-j,t,-,. .
147
plan and execute such mighty works as these,
concerning which the traditions of the aborigines
of this country does not retain even the smallest
remembrance of the founders, is, if possible, mort
astonishing still, and seems to argue a degree of
antiquity which few are willing to allow.
These works or fortifications, which enclose an
area of about seventy acres, are within the town plot
of Marietta, and are situated on the eastern bank
of the Muskingum, about half a mile from the
River Ohio, upon a second elevated plain, entirely
out of the reach of the annual floods, which some-
times inundate a great part of the adjacent coun-
try. They consist of walls, ramparts and mounds
of earth of astonishing magnitude and extent ;
some of a circular and semicircular form, and
others in squares and straight lines. But, to be
more particular, take my notes as they occurred.
After ascending the second elevated bank, and
advancing about seventy or eighty paces,* I
entered at the south end through a large opening at
the angle of two walls or ramparts about five feet
in height ; the one on the right hand extending
to the north-east about one hundred and sixty-two
paces; and the other, on the left, extending to
the north-west about five hundred and sixty paces
in length. These walls appear to be in a more
'
* Not geometrical paces.
148
ruinous state than the others; but from M'hat
cause I am unable to say.
One hundred and fifty paces north of the en-
trance before mentioned, are two ruinous walls,
portions of concentric circles, having their convexi-
ties towards the south-east, each beii.g one hun-
dred and fifty -two paces in length.
About twenty.five paces farther to the north,
west, commences the bank or wall which sur-
rounds the great mound, being about breast high,
in the inside of which is a trench or ditch from'
three to five feet deep, and about five or six paces
wide. The great mound, which is in the centre,
is of a pyramidical form, about thirty feet in
height, one hundred and forty-two paces in cir-
cumference, and, at the north-west end, has a
passage or entrance-way of eight paces wide. One
hundred paces to the north-west of the gateway of
the great mound there is a smaller mound of an oval
form. After leaving this little mound about the same
distance, and still in the san\e direction, I entered
the southern extremity of what is called the Little
Fort, being a parallelogram of five hundred and
thirty paces in length, and three hundred and
seventy in breadth, its longest sides extending to
the north-west, and lying parallel to the river.
This fort has three entrances or gateways on each
side ; one in the middle, and one at each corner ;
each of the corner passages is covered or delend-
:^%"
149
ed by a small elevated mound, and the ml,I,ll.
gates by two. The vralls or ram^rts are' "^
mm five to eight feet in heigh.fand ap^Tbe
n a tolerable state of preservation. A small dis
tanee to tl,e west end, and on the outside of th "
on, towards , he margin of what .:::^VrLet
he nver ,s the spot which has been designatrdl
the bunal grcmd of the ancients.
-h-weit. rtam r^:; r?- *'
area and fifty paces in length anH fi„ u
d-d and ten in b,.adth. havi^'thl p ^ '"o"
gateways on each side ; but that on the ^T !
or river side, is somewhat thelarl, The "n '
are genen.l,y from five to nine fe«„hSt"»d
fourteen paces in thickness at the bottom^ Cm
'he large gateway, and at another on the r ver id"
of the wall, are two covert wavs l^»H-
;he river, about one hundred arforynleT*
■n length. I„ ,he inside of the n.idl , ^ '"
the south-west wall or ..mp ,^ .f ™^^ °''
and elevated squa<^ mound ex 1 '"' "T'"'
the sides of the fort sZl ' "'^"<^"S P»allel to
-h.vest, fortySrStlS^^
and about eight and a half feet i„ hdgh 'h, '
hkewtse abutments at the centre of each s de I
-ng gentle ascents to the top, excep^nSel:
M
, «i^)tev
f
r
i!t!
OT
I
I
150
nearest to the wall, which has a covered way four
paces wide, extending inward a few paces, when it
likewise affords anodier passage to the summit. At
the easternmost comer, on the right, there is
another mound of the same figure and form as tlie
last, although not so large, being no more than
forty.four paces in length, twenty-twc in breadth,
and about five feet in height. This mound, from
some unknown cause or other, appears in a far less
perfect state than the former. At the southern-
most corner, on the left, is a narrow, and some-
thing of a half-moon formed parapet, ab(jut the
same height, and eighty paces in extent, with a
mound at the centre, which evidently appears to
have been intended to defend the gate at that cor-
ner. At the westernmost comer there is another
of the aforementioned mounds, with abutments at
each side, affording an easy passage to the summit ;
this one is about nine feet in height, seventy-six
paces in length, and fifty-four in breadth. Exclu-
sive of the works just mentioned, there are
many smaller mounds and excavations, without
the limits of the walls or ramparts ; but in general
so trifling and imperfect, when compared with
what I have already described, as not to be deser-
ving of notice.
There seems to be a considerable diversity of
opinion among those who have examined these
works, respecting the original intention or design
for which they were erected by ihe founders ; for
•■: f
151
while some, and among those several military cha-
racters, who ought to be able to form a competent
judgment, have pronounced them places of warlike
defence ; others have insisted that they were the
mere towns of some peaceable people, and that the
elevations which have been mistaken for forts and
ramparts, were nothing more than the site of their
temples, and the walls of their gardens ; and the
elevated mounds, the sepulchres of their dead, or
high places of sacrifice !
I have already had occasion to acknowledge my
ignorance of the art of fortification ; I shall not,
therefore, speak decidedly on this question, yet free-
ly confess that I lean to the former opinion. The
principal reason which has inclined me to this, is
that of the two passages or covert ways already
mentioned, which, by a gradual descent, lead from
the principal fort to the lower grounds towards
the Muskingum River. These, at this time, in
consequence of the accumulation of soil and retro-
cession of the water, are now three hundred paces
distant ; but, in all probability, the river flowed at
the foot of these passages at the time of erecting
the fortifications.
The angles of all the figures I found corres-
ponded nearly with the four cardinal points of the
compass, particularly those on the north and south ;
those to the east and west had considerably more
variation. The works, when viewed collectively
. t^>-' ' - ' ' It
f
i.-yfc. . .. ^j ^wy*— * -*■». — ^ -^^
152
from the southern extremity, have the appearance
of a triangle, whose two sides, extending from the
eye, ai'e equal, and of very considerable length.
From a particular examination of the ground, I am
clearly of opinion, that the southern extremity of
the elevated bank, on which they are situated, was
formerly the point of land which divided the Ohio
and Muskingum Rivers ; and that the formation
and structure of the works were laid out with a
particular reference to the ancient point and June-
tion of '.he two rivers ; and, in all probability, were
calculated to prevent any surprise from that
quarter.
Although, a't present, these works do not seem
calculated to aford that protection from an attack
with artillery and musketry, which we might ex-
pect from the improved state of the military science
of our time; yet, when we consider the different
arms made use of in those days, such as bows and
arrows for long shot, and stones, javelins, &c. for
close quarters, and that the walls and ramparts have,
in all probability, lost at least one half of their ori-
ginal heig:ht, we shall be of opinion tliat the works
were sufficient for all the purposes intended. In-
deed, I have not the smallest doubt, were the
whole lower plain examined by digging, it would
be found to contain great quantities of drift-wood
buried by the repeated inundations of former ages ;
and thus prove, beyond all doubt, tliat the antiquity
153
ftf these venerable works is even greater than the
warmest advocates for this opinion have been
wilhng to allow.
The passages or spaces in the sides or walls of
the ramparts, were probably used as gateways, and
guarded accordingly. The mean distance between
these gateways is one hundred and sixty-five
paces ; consequently the guard stationed at one
gate was within hail of him who kept watch at
the next. For what particular purpose the eleva-
ted mounds or platforms in the Great Fort were
intended I am unable to determine, yet think it
not unreasonable to suppose, that they may have
been raised for the site of some warlike engines,
to discharge stones or other missile weapons upon
a besieging enemy. What strengthens this opi-
nion IS, that each of these mounds commands ^
principal passage to the fort, and the largest one
overlooks that which opens to the Muskingum,
from which' the covert ways extend to the'low
grounds, where, as I have before observed, the
river formerly flowed. If, therefore, these works,
after a lapse of so many ages, still evince such evi-
dent sigis of skill and design in their founders, it
is but reasonable to suj^pose, that when they were
first erected, they were even more perfect, and that
they may have been surrounded with pickets, pali-
sades, and other temporary works, which, being
VOL. I.
U
- !
~- t
N
i
m
154
of a more perishable nature, have entirely disap-
peared.
Works of a similar kind, although less com-
plete and extensive, have been discovered in va-
rious parts of our country, from the banks of Lake
Ontario, and the waters of the Unadilla, in the
State of New- York, to those of the Mississippi, in
the Territory of Louisiana. The State of Ohio,
particularly, abounds with them. The works of
Marietta, although astonishingly large, are said
to be much less than those which have been
found in the interior, some of which enclose
an area of six hundred acres, with the walls and
ramparts proportionably large. Smaller specimens
of these wonks are found at Grave Creek, above
Marietta, and at Galliopolis, below; while those of
larger dimensions are on the waters of the Sciota
and Miami Rivers.
There is one thing worth;- of remark with re-
spect to che structure of these works, which is,
that excepting the small ditch, already mentioned
to surround the great mound, no other ditch or
ravin is to be found throughout the whole extent
of these immense works ; and, as ihey are situated
upon a natural plain, it is evident that the whole
of the ground necessary for the elevation of the
walls, mounds and ramparts must have either
been brought from a distance, or taken up regu-
larly from the whole surface of the plain. The
few excavations which arc found would have af-
■?-'•»
m
forded too trifling a quantity of earth to be taken
into consideration; and these, no doubt, were
made ibr the purpose of procuring water, but have
since been washed full of earth by the rains.
I have been informed, that in digging in some
parts of the fort to a depth of live feet, large bo-
dies of trees, with fragments of earthen ware,
pieces of copper of a semicircular form, and some
small beads, and ornaments of the same metal,
have been found. This proves that the ancient
floor of the fort was considerably lower thai> it is
at present ; and that an accretion of soil, from the
decomposition of trees, and other vegetable mat.
ter, has added a layer of several feet in thickness
over the floor or bottom of the fort.
On another occasion I learnt, that in digging
wells on the lower plain, frequent and indubi-
table proofs of former habitation^ are found, and
particularly on one occasion, about five or six feet
below the surface, a hearth of stone, with frag-
ments of seacoal, was discovered. Seacoal is foujid
in abundance up the Muskingum River, and a
fragment, therefore, might easily have been brought
here by the natives of that day. But still I am of
opinion, that if such a hearth, in such a situation,
has really been found, it cannot be the doings
of those who erected the works on the upper plain ;
but of one of some nation who succeeded them,
after a lapse of many Intervening ages, as the
whole lower plain must have been formed since
■(
II.
!^5
156
tliat period. Another difficulty likewise strikes
me as Ibrming an insurmountiible objection to the
idea that this lower plain has ever been a perma-
nent settlement. It is now well known that the
beds of the Ohio and Mississippi, like all other
large rivers, are continually wearing away by the
violence of the freshes, to which they are so often
subject. From this fact a natural inference is, that
at some remote period, the bed of the river may
have been live feet higher than it is at present, and
consequently the general level of the river elevated
in the same degree. Thtrelbre, as the /leart/iwas
discovered five feet below the present surface of
the plain, the situation must have been in all re-
spects similar to one ten feet lower than the pre-
sent banks of the river, consequently unfit for any
thing more than a temporary iiabitation during the
lowest stages of the water. Indeed it is not un-
common for a fresh to swell the river, even at this
day, to such a degree as to inundate the town of
Marietta with two feet of uater ; and, were the
banks five feet lower, (the dejjth the /learth is said
to ha^ e been found,) the town would be uninha-
bitable the greatest ^^art of the year.
Some years ago a number of gentlemen deter-
mined to open the great mound, in order to ascer-
tain, by an examination of its contents, the use for
which it was erected. After much labour, tiiey
at length discovered the bones of a person neatly
covered over with flat stones, of the same kind as
:■*. *
157
those now found in the bed of the river, from
which, in all probability, they were taken. No-
thing further was discovered ; but, in order to
preserve the work for a more succvmiul attempt
the mound was closed up as before ; since which
It has remained untouched.
^ Some of the smaller mounds in the interior
have been opened and examined, and, from the
circumstance of human bones bein^c lound, have
been considered as the sepulchres of the ancient
inhabitants. In most of these the bones ap-
peared to have been laid together promiscuously;
yet in some few, towards the summit, a numk
skeleton has been found, generally accompanied
with some warlike weapon, such as stone arrow,
heads, and a kind of battle axe of the same mate-
rial, together with pieces of earthen ware, intended
no doubt as the monuments of some favourite
chiefs.
It does not appear that any thing but ornaments,
arms, and fragments of earthen urns, have as
yet been found in any of the examinations which
have taken place, which is somewhat surjjrising
as we cannot have a doubt but tools of some kind
were necessary in the construction of such works'
and that the fragments of some, at least, have been'
buried. Can this be for the want of j,roper search,
or is it owing to the perishable nature of the ma'
tenals ? I feel inclined to adopt the latter con.
elusion, upon the supposition that they used no-
r
'1
y'
158
thing but sacks made of skins, and a kind of
earthen scoop or plate, the fragments of which
arc still found, but are now known under the im-
posing title of urns. Although you may suppose
this hypothesis to accord but HI with the genius of
a people capable of rearing works which not only
display a degree of mathematical precision, but,
likewise a competent knowledge of the art of pot-
tery ; yet, upon reflection, I feel almost confirmed
in the opinion. In those early ages, when the arts
were less known, and these nations not stationary,
it was much easier to procure sacks, which might
be used for many other purposes than to build
intrenchments ; and they were likewise more con-
venient to bci transported, either by land or water,
than as many wheel or hand-barrows, or sui;h like
modern instruments. The soil, in general, is of a
very loose texture, and, therefore, does not requite
sharp instruments to remove it : allowing, there,
fore, that sacks, of convenient sizes for one or two
men to carry, were used instead of our modern
barrows, we shall no longer be surprised that " no
" tools" of this kind have been discovered.
I am likewise informed, that the few ornaments
which have been found in these works differ not
only in form and figure, but are likewise of supe-
rior workmanship to those generally found through-
out the country. If this be true, I think it argues
strongly that two or more separate and distinct na-
tions have, at different periods, inhabited this coun-
159
try ; but that the ancient aborigines, like those of
Asia, were more enlightened than their successors
of a later period.
As to the antiquity of these surprising works, I
know of no daUi which may guide us with any de-
gree of certjiinty to a conclusion. The only cir-
cumstance which has come to my knowledge, and
can give room for conjecture, is, that some gentle-
men, at the early settlement of this place, had seve-
ral of the largest trees cut down in order to ascer-
tani their growth, which is readily done by enu-
merating the concentric circles found on each. On
the largest they counted four hundred and seventy
which denoted an equal number of years ; and'
from other good evidence, they discovered sigiis
of a previous growth, probably of the same extent,
which gives a period of nine hundred years. This
evidence, however, only goes to show they cannot
be less than nine hundred years old ; but how
many previous growths of four hundred and se.
venty years each may have vegetated aud mould-
ered away, remains for each one to determine as
his reason, prejudice, or superstition may permit.
Yours,
C. S.
f- )■
h
i pi
(
'1 1 ^n^^l
/
' M^y^^l
160
'\
LETTER XIV.
Cincinnati, {Fort JVashington,) October 4, 1 807.
Dear Friend,
BEFORE I left Marietta I made an excursion
in company with L. on the opposite shore, for
the purpose of looking after some lands. This
excursion was chequered with such a variety of
adventure, that I cannnot withhold from you the
particulars. It having rained hard during the fore
part of the day on which we intended to set out, it
. was late in tlu afternoon before we departed from
Marietta ; but, being informed that the road was
plain, and our object only twelve t liles distant, we
set off about five o'clock, expecting to reach our
destination before dark.. When we arrived at the
ferry we lost near an hour before we could obtain
an answer from the opposite shore, \vhen, at last,
we were informed that the ferryman had gone a
hunting, and they had no one to bring the boat
over. We were now under tlie necessity of riding
1
three
theg
was r
the ft
being
great
procee
were <
were i
shortei
again.
being
nogre£
formed
discoV(
lowing
came sc
had foil
we coul
the stui
woody 1
examine
municat
no trace
some di
(by the i
water) tl
ado, I til
an instan
VOL. I.
Ttnt^
161
three miles farther to another ferry, whe,^ we had
the good luck to get landed on the other shore It
was now sunset ; I therefore felt inclined to stav at
the ferry for the night; but my companion, 'not
bemg much pleased with the expedition, and in
great W to have it ended, prevailed upon me to
proceed. We were informed that the inhabitant,
were opening and straightening the old road, and -
were mstructed to take the new cuts, as being the
shortest, and always leading into the old road
agam. We accordingly pushed on hard, and it
bemg now almost dark, I thought we could be at
no great distance from Sharp's inn, who, I was in-
formed, lived on this land ; but could neither
discover signs of a clearing, nor hear the noise or
lowmg of catde. We still rode forward,* until it be
came so dark that we could not go off a walk. We
had followed the last new cut of the road (which
we could yet distinguish from the whiteness of
the stumps) until it ended abruptly in a thick
woody bottom. Alighting from our horses we
cxamnied the wood all around us for the com
munication with the old road, but could discover
no trace of it ; we then returned on our steps for
«ome distance, when I thought I could perceive
(by the reflection of the light of a star on some
^V|Uer) the ruts of the old road, so, vvithout more
ado, I turned my horse's head that way, when in
an instant, I found myself and horse, with mv com-
VOL. I. V
/•■
%.!
162
I fff
panion and his, who was close at my heels, at the
bottom of a creek or rivulet, having slid down the
steep side of a bank, twelve or fifteen feet in height,
without having received any injury whatever.
After recovering from our fright, we endeavoured
in vain to regain our lost situation, as the steep,
ness of the bank rekidered it altogether inipracti-
cable. What to do we knew not — to retreat, we
could not recover the road — to advance, we knew
not where to go — therefoie to stay where we were,
up to our horses' knees in water, was our only al-
ternative. We continued in this situation, on our
horses, an hour at least ; for as we could not
get out of the creek, it was to no purpose to dis-
mount and s^and in the water, the night being of
itself sufficiently cool. The distant how lings of the
wolves, in the early part of the evening, did not in
the least intimidate us ; but, after an hour or so, we
found them becoming such near neighbours, that
we began to recollect all the dreadful tales and dis-
asters which we had heard upon our travels. Be-
ing totally unarmed, L. made out to cut off a good
cudgel from the root of a tree projecting from the
bank, with which lie occasionally would strike on
the bank, or against some fallen tree ; for as we
concluded that silence was a mark of cowardice, we
took care to make as much noise as we_ could, in
order to let the wolves know we were not afraid
of them. All this, however, did not prevent some
of them from approaching to witliin two or three
ever.
163
hundred yards of us, as n€ar as we could judge
from the clearness of their horrible yells ; so that
I really began to doubt the efficacy of our noise,
making, and concluded that some motion of our
horses would answer a better purpose ; or that we
might as well be drowned as devoured, or even
frightened lo death. I had no sooner made this
detenr* '.nation than I turned my horse's head up the
creek, resolved to follow it as far as was practica-
ble. I had proceeded about one hundred yards,
and began to flatter myself with a prospect of suc-
ceeding, when, in an instant, my horse plunged
over head and ears into a deep hole, and before I
could well ascertain whether 1 was riding or swim-
ming, he had clambered up a gentle ascent, and
stopped on the opposite bank of the creek.
Although my situation was far from pleasant,
being now wet as well as cold, with a pros-
pect of spendmg the night in the woods, without
even a steel or flint to strike a fue ; yet I ne-
ver laughed more heartily than at the scene which
ensued. Poor L. who was close behind me, re-
collecting that for want of a tight rein he had just
before made a perpendicular descent of fifteen
feet, was determined to be very cautious in
future ; as soon, therefore, as he perceived my
horse disappear, he pradently drew back. How-
ever, upon hearing that I was safe on the bank,
he liad no great inclination to continue in the
■ul
"♦*
164
Ih
IK:
■5
tfJtek ; yet thffe was no other way of getting
out but through the same pool. I must cut him a
Jong sticic, with which he xvould sound the hole. He
swore there was no bottom. Perhaps it was mud-
dy, and his horse might stick fast. Was there no
roots or brush M-hich might entangle his horEc's
feet ? Could his horse climb the bank ? and a
dozen other previous particulars. I finally told
hin» I had discovered the road, which soon deter-
mined him, and in he plunged.
After recovering the bank, we perceived that the
wolves had taken a more respectful distance, most
probably frightened by the plunging of our horses ;
we dismounted and tied them to a tree, and Imving
traced a small circuit around them, continued
walking until one o'clock^ in order to keep our-
selves warm. About this time the moon arose,
and gave so much light as to induce us to try to
recover the road ; but, after an inefFectaal searc^i
all around us, I concluded, that f . we were as wet
as ^^c could be, (and I recollected we were in-
formed that Sharp lived upon this creek,) the best
thing we could do was to descend into the creek
once more, and pursue its course imtil we reached
his house. We accordingly attempted it, and,
after creeping under trees, leaping over logs, and
gettmg half a dozen more duckings, discovered a
clearing, which soon led to the house, where we
arrived about three o'clock in the morning.
166
The chiff topic of conversation at present along
the Ohio is Burr's late expedition, and his pend.
ing trial. Marietta -.vns what may be styled the
head-qUarters in this business ; not that many of
its citizens had embarked in his schemes, but
rather as forming a kind of centnU point for the
preparation and equipment of his flotilla. From
every info) mation wLich I have been able to col-
lect, this affair still remains enveloped in a cloud of
mystery. Thi '. '.Uirr ever seriously meditated a
separation of the western states is highly impro-
bable; he too well knew the enthusiastic at-
tachment of the inhabitants to our present govern-
ment. The seizure of ihe Spanish dominions,
without the immediate aid of Wilkinson and the
army, is equally absurd, as his whole force would
not have amounted to more than three hundred
men. And, lastly, his intended settlement on the
Washita appears equally distant from the real
object in view ; for here it is a well known fact, that
what little preparations had been made, were more
for a military than agricultural expedition. In
short, I have conversed with some who were on
board the/e«?/, who laugh at the idea of " leaving
*' their friends and families, and a healthy country,
^* to JTo and settle a m>amp, in the most unhealthy
*' j>m; of all Louisiana !'*
/■
W
166
m
It
li
ii
«
it
u
H
it
U
*t
U
«
((
ti
tt
tt
The only rational conjecture, and which is the
pi-evailing one ia this country, is, " that as the
" prospect of an immediate war between the United
" States and Spain at that period appeared to be
" unavoidable, Burr's primary object was the sei-
" zure of Baton Rouge, and afterwards of Mexico,
" with the aid and assistance of Wilkinson's army ;
" but matters having been mysteriously arranged
" with the Spaniards, Burr, notwithstanding, perse.
" vered in his plans ; and, had the counsel and
4/
*
*
*
at
*
at
*
*
*
*
*
*
' «
*
lit
«
*
" until he was denounced to the government ; and
" thereby frustrated a scheme which, had it suc-
" ceeded, would probably have secured an empire
167
'• (without endangering our own) to one whose
" daring genius and towering ambition at least as
" well deserved it as Bo.iaparte, into whose hands
" it will probably soon fall."
I believe I neglected to inform you, in my last,
that since I have navigated the Ohio, I have had the
honour of being promoted to a captaincy ; yet such
is the case. I shouid scarcely have thought of
the circumstance again had not a fellow just now
called me mister; for having become familiarized
to the appellation of " captain," it appeared some-
thing like an attempt to diminish my consequence.
In order that you may understand me better, you
will recollect that I informed you I had purchased a
keel boat at Pittsburgh, and hired two hands, be-
sides a passenger who volunteered as a pilot ; con-
sequently I became the master; and here the
master of every boat, should she even be no larger
than a cimoe, is always a '' captain."
Cincinnati is four hundred and ninety miles
from Pittsburgh ; but, before I proceed to give
you an account of that place, it is necessary you
should know how I got there.
After leaving Marietta we descended eight
miles, and arrived at Vienna, a small town, con-
taining twelve houses- pleasantly situated on the
left side of the Ohio, in the State of Virginia, at
the mouth of the Little Kanawa River, which here
discharges itself into tiie Ohio. This is a thick
* I,'
168
#*'
III •• '
and turbid stream, navigable for ten or twelve
miles only, and about one hundred and thirty
yards wide at its mouth. Immediately opposite
is another small settlement, called Bellepre ; and
one mile below, is Blannerhasset's Island. This
name, I presume, by this time, is quite fami-
liar to your ear, as the proprietor was to have
been Burr's first admiral in the intended expedition
to Mexico. The house being large and spacious,
and the grounds laid out with a great deal of taste
and elegance, afford a very striking contrast to the
rest of the country, which, being still in a state of
nature, conspires to render this little elysium the
mo5t enphanting spot I ever saw.
As it is extremely tedious for me, and must be
equally unpro^table for you, to run over a duU
list of all the trifling dry creeks we pass, I shall,
in future, confine myself to describing such as
may be considered of some consequence, re-
ferring you to the maps for those of minor im-
portiince, the most of which, at present, have not
any water, and are generally denominated drt/
creeks.
Big Hockhocking River fal's into tlie Ohio
twenty -five riiiles b.qjow Marietta, is navigable for
abo4t sixty or seventy miles, and is one hundred
yard^ wide at its,ni<j)uth. Some considerable set-
tlemkits are mad^; to wards its head; and several
salt springs, of no very great strength however,
1
169
are found in its vicinity ; as likewise iron ore, and
coal m abundance. The mouth of this river lies
m latitude about 39. 11. N. and 81. 36. W
Belleville, a small settlement of half a dozen
houses lies three miles below Hockhocking, on
the Virginia shore. Forty miles farther down
IS Letart's Falls, the name of which, to stran-
gers, ,s always more terrific than the passage.
These falls, so called, are nothing more than a
considerable ripple, over which a person may de-
scend m a canoe in safety. The ripple is caused
by the obstruction of part of the channel with
rocks ; but those who have the least acquaintance
with water courses will immediately perceive the
deepest part of the channel.
Point Pleasant is handsomely situated on the
Virgmia shore, at the confluence of the Ohio and
Great Kanawa Rivers ; at present it contains no
more than thirteen houses, but from its situation
will continue to improve. The Great Kanawa
falls into the Ohio two hundred and seventy-two
miles below Pittsburgh. One branch of it rises
m North Carolina, while another, in an opposite
direction, almost interlocks with the head of the
Monongahela. It is about two hundred and sixty
yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable nearly
two hundred miles, though with considerable ob. *
structions. I was here shewn tlie place where a
severe engagement was fought between the Dela-
VOL. I. V
i I
iiii
170
warfs, Shawanese and other Indians, and a de-
tachment of the Virginia militia, which finally
ended in the defeat of the Indians, great numbers
of whom were shot and drowned in attempting to
cross the river.
Galliopolis is situated four miles below Point
Pleasant, on the right side of the river, on a low
rich tract of land. It was first setded by a num-
ber of French families, and is said to have once
contained near one hundred houses. At present
it is fast declining, most of the inhabitants having
removed, in consequence of the sickliness of
the place. The land immediately back of the
town is low, having several stagnant ponds and
marshes, which, no doubt, are the cause of its un«
healthiness. This evil, I am of opinion, might
easily be remedied, and at a very trifling expense,
considering the magnitude of the object. When-
ever the river is high, and overflows its banks, a
considerable current sets through these ponds;
this is evident from the quantity of drift-wood
lying upon their margins, which could have got
there by no ovher means. Taking advantage of
this circumstance, when the water is low, a canal
or sluice might easily be opened to the river
both above and below the town, which, passing
through these ponds, would, with every rise of -the
tide, overflow them, and thus eftectually free them
from the stagnant matter which they contain.
id a dC'
1 finally
numbers
ipting to
m Point
Dn a low
' a num-
ave once
present
s having
iness of
: of the
>nds and
)f its im-
1, might
expense,
When-
banks, a
ponds ;
ift-wood
have got
ntage of
, a canal
he river
passing
ie of 4;he
ee them
contain.
m
The compact part of the town at present cpnsists
of about twenty.five houses ; and the land ob
which it stands has evidently been formed by accu-
mulations from each successive flood At present,
by some change in the course of the current, it is
hst washing away again ; so that, in all probability,
in fifty years to come, even the site of Galliopolis
will be forgotten. Trees which have been buried
for ages, are now seen exposed in every part of the
bank, as it daily tumbles into the river. I was in-
formed that a very valuable salt spring had lately
been discovered, not far from the town; but as I had
already taken my departure before I was apprized
of this circumstance, I had not an opportunity
of examining its strength and quality. There
are several Indian mounds to be seen in this
neighbourhood ; but as they may be considered as
trifling, when compared with those I have already
described, I know you will not thank me for the
little I can say on the subject.
The land on the Virginia shore is much more
elevated than that on the Ohio side, and along the
river is said to be equally good; but the greatest
proportion of bottom land is evidently on the Ohio
shore.
After leaving Galliopolis, we descended fifty,
eight miles, without passing any thing worth noti-
cing, except scattering settlements on both sides
of the river, till we arrived at the mouth of Big
Sandy, River a considerable stream, but not navi-
172
gable. This river falls into the Ohio from the left,
is the boundary line between the States of Virginia
and Kentucky, and lies in latitude 38. 25. N. and
82. 23. W.
I may probably be detained here for a day or
two, as I have to procure a new set of hands, the
engagement with those I have hitherto had having
-xpired. It is therefore likely you may hear from
me again before I set off from this place.
Yours,
C. S.
173
LETTER XV.
Newport, Kentucky, October 6, 1807.
Dear Friend,
f
MY last left us, I think, at Big Sandy River,
three hundred and thirty mUes from Pittsburgh.
Twenty miles below this river we passed the
French Grant, which is a tract of twenty thousand
acres, in the State of Ohio, granted by Congress for
the relief of the French inhabitants of Galliopolis
as some indemnifir >ion for the failure of their
titles to the land ey first settled on. Most of
tiiem, however, have transferred their rights, and
fixed themselves on the Mississippi, veiy few having
attempted a second settlement on the Ohio. De
scending from thence eighteen miles, we arrived
at the mouth of the Great Sciota River, which is
said to flow through a tract of the richest land in
the State of Ohio.
The Great Sciota is a very considerable river
being about one hundred and eighty yards wide at
;
i'\
. "J'^-^^!i'->.-...~*,.
174
its mouth, and navigable for a distance of one
hundred and ninety miles ; it likewise affords a
very easy communication with Lake Erie, ap-
proaching to within three miles of a branch of
Simdusky River, which empties into that lake.
The waters of this river are said to possess strong
petrescent qualities ; and when the stream is low,
a variety of specimens of petrefactions may be
found in its bed. We had not the good fortune
to arrive at such a time ; for although the Ohio
continued low, the Great Sciota, from some heavy
rains above, was very full, and marked its cur-
rent quite across the middle of the Ohio. It lies
in latitude 38. 44. N. and 82. 49. W.
Chilicothe^ the seat of government for the State
of Ohio, is about sixty-six miles from the mouth
of this river, and is said to contain about one
hundred and fifty houses, many of which are
large and elegant buildings. The situation, I am
told, is not verj' eligible, on account of thfc low-
ness of the ground, which makes it very unhealthy,
and subject to periodical fevers. On the right
bank of the Ohio, and about a quarter of a mile
above the mouth of the Great Sciota, is the site of
a small town called Portsmouth ; and on the op-
posite side of the same stream, another, named
Alexandria, containing eight houses. Both of
these towns are quite new settlements, and situa-
ted on a narrow strip of rich bottom, of only threer
175
quarters of a mile in depth, behind which the land
suddenly rises into hills and mountains.
Vangeville is another small town, of half a do-
zen houses, situated on the Ohio and Salt Creek,
in the State of Kentucky, about twenty-one miles
below the Great Sciota. Two or three miles up
this Creek arc found some very good salt springs,
where some considerable quantities of salt are
made. The price at the works is two dollars a
bushel of fifty pounds. This creek was perfectly
dry at the time of my arrival, nor is it navigable
at any time.
The salt springs of Vangeville bear no kind of
comparison with those of Onondago, either in
strength or quality, requiring three hundred gallons
of water to make one bushel of inferior salt. They
have about two hundred kettles of twenty-five gol
Ions each, in constant operation, and when th^
brine is strongest, will Miake about forty bushels
in twenty-four hours ; but as the springs are sub-
ject to be inundated with every rise of the river,
the works are frequently stopped altogether.
The land from the Kentucky line, at Big Sandy
River, to this place, which is a distance of seven-
ty miles, presents a rough and hilly country, as
far as can be seen from the river, excepting some
small bottoms, alternately found, first on one side
and then on the other.
I r
m -m
''i^^. l y i i^ i m*u i.M
*
176
This country appears to be completely over-
run vith innumerable quantities of black and
grey squirrels. The river, since we left Marietta,
has afforded us an abundant supply of these ani'
mals, without any trouble on our part, as our
boat had continually five or six of them on board,
who clambered up the oars in order to rest them'
selves. I have counted no less than forty-seven
at one time swimming across the river in differ-
entdiiections. The shores on each side of the ri
ver are literally lined with drowned squirrels ;
and I suppose that one third at least of those who
take to the river perish in the water. They all ap.
psai- to be migrating to the southward. Higher
up the river we found them very fat, and they af.
forded us maity delicious repasts ; but they have
now become too poor to be eatable.
Although, in one of my former letters, I descri-
bed the navigation of the Ohio to be perfectly safe,
yet experience has shewn me it is at least necessa-
ry to keep a constant look out. We were about three
miles below Salt Lick Creek when our boat
drifted very gently against a pointed log or snag,
which was barely covered with water. The boat
Vas under such moderate wav, that we had not the
least idea that she was injured, as she wheeled
around and continued her course. I soon, how-
ever, perceived the water rising fast over the tim-
bers, and at the same time heard a rippling
m
nois. which I at first supposed was occasioned by
the current, but was soon convinced that it pro-
cecdcd from the leaking of the boat. I removed
some of the baggage, and perceiving the water
gushmg in with violence, thrust an old great
coat into the hole, and directed my men to make
for the shore, where we unloaded, and drew the
boat out of the water. On examination we found
one of the plank stove through ; but by means
of a tbin piece of board and a few nails, we soon
covered the fracture, and payed it over with some
of the rich mud of the Ohio, which, on this occa-
sion, answered all the purposes of tar, without the
trouble of boiling.
After repairing the boat, and reloading our
trumpery, we set forward again, when, just as we
turned a short bend in the river, we discovered a
bear tliiat had taken to the water, with an intention
of crossmg to the opposite side. We immediately
manned our oars with all. hands in order to come
up with him, but all to no purpose, for as soon as
he perceived our intention, he prudently turned
about, and recovered the shore he had left be
fore we could come within gun shot. We had
better luck, however, in the afternoon : seeing a
deer make the same attempt, we despatched two
hands m our light canoe after him, who, after cut-
tmg hun off from th^ shore, and forcing him again
VOL. I. » °
-.
^- 'rs
^^Se;.:;^^'
178
to the middle of the river, determined not to shoot
him, but give him fair play, and either take him
alive or suffer him to escape : after a chase of
nearly five miles, they seized him by the horns
and dragged him ashore.
Eleven miles below Salt Creek I was informed
we should pass a town called Adamsburgh, and,
ahhough it was noon day when we arrived at the
place designated, I could not see any thing like
it, unless two solitary huts were intended by our
informer. Manchester lies six miles lower; it
is situated on the right bank of the river, in the
State of Ohio, and contains eighteen houses. Just
above this town lies an island, which divides the
river into two channels. Finding ourselves nearest
to the one on the right shore, we entered that, but
it was with the utmost difficulty that we forced our
way through it. We all jumped overboard in or-
der to lighten the boat, when, by lifting and drag-
ging her, and shifting our baggage fore and aft,
as occasion required, we succeeded in getting
thro'igh. This channel is fast filling up, and the
probability is, that in a year or two more it will
be altogether impassable.
You will naturally inquire why I have said no-
thing respecting the trade of the numerous towns
already described on the Ohio ? One answer will
serve for the whole, viz. they are all too new
to attend to any manufactures further than their
179
immediate necessities require, and, therefore only
serve us points for transporting the surplus protluce
of the adjacent country down the Ohio. This, and
boat building, in which all the more considerable
towns are engaged, constitutes the whole of their
trade. Ten miles below Manchester is likewise
said to be a town called Liberty, which, although
situated on the bank of the river, cannot be seen
'for want of a few houses. This I am informed
will be the case with a number of other towns
down the river, where town making has been car-
ried on with considerable spirit. There is only
one difficulty they have to overcome, in order to
ensure success to the whole, viz* half a dozen
houses to each town, and half a dozen inhabitants
to each house. After passing this intended town
of Liberty about two miles, we arrived at Lime-
stone, situated on the left bank of the river, in the
State of Kentucky, four hundred and twenty miles
distant from Pittsburgh. It lies in latitude 38.
36. N. and 83. 38. W.
Limestone is said to be the oldest settlement in
the State of Kentucky. The town, which con-
sists of about eighty houses, is built on a flat in a
bend of the river, and commands a pleasing view
of the stream both above and below ; and, from
the great number of boats of every description ly-
ing along the shore, must hove a very considera-
ble share of business. Ship building, I was in-
r--
■«1
180
formed, is likewise carried on with much spirit,
but I saw nothing of the kind going on while I
was there.
The river had made very considerable encroa-h-
ments upon the town, by washing away the banks;
so that in some places there is barely room between
the houses and the edge of the bank for a passa.
ble road. A year or two more, especially if as-
sisted by any extraordinary freshes, will either swal-
low up those on the margin of the bank, or oblige
their inhabitants to remove them to some more
permanent foundation.
Lexington, which is the largest tovra in the State
of Kentucky, is only sixty.five miles distant from
this place ; it is said to be nearly five times as
large as Lmiestone, and situated in one of the
finest countries in the world.
Limestone Creek falls hito the Ohio immediately
above the town. I understand that this is sometimes
a considerable stream ; but, at present, its bed
which is at least six feet above the surface of the
river, is perfectly dry. This is the case with
most of the creeks which empty into the Ohio
although at other times they rush down witli
all the appearance of large mid permanent rivers.
After leaving Limestone six miles, we came in
sight of Charlestown, likewise in the State of Ken-
tucky. Tliis place contains about forty houses,
l^
161
and makes a respectable appearance from the river.
Twelve ruiles lower we passed the town of Au.
gusta, situated on the right bank of the river, in
the State of Ohio, and containing about thirty
houses. Thirty-seven miles below Augusta,
the Little Miami River puts in from the right ;'
immediately above which, is the site of a small
town called Cohimbia, consisting of about one
dozen scattered houses. Seven miles further
down stands the town of Cincinnati, the largest
town on the Ohio below Pittsburgh, from whence
It is distant about four hundred and eighty miles,
and lies in latitude 39. 6. N. and 84. 18. W.
Cincinnati is handsomely situated on an eleva-
ted bank on the right side of the Ohio, and was,
until lately, the seat of government for the North-
West Territory ; ii contains about three hundred
houses, among which are found several very gen-
teel buildings ; it has a bank, market-house, print-
ing office, and a number of stores well stocked
with every kind of merchandise in demand in this
country. The markets are well furnished, both
as to abundance and variety. Superfine flower is
selling at three and a half and four dollars by the
single barrel, and other articles are proportionably
cheap. Ordinary manufactures they have likewise
in plenty ; and the country around, being rich
and level, produces all the necessaries of life with
but little labour. Fort Washington is situated
I
\ ,1
/J/
K Ollll l l i U fci
182
immediately at the upper end of the town, and al-
though, from the increased population of the coun-
try, it is at present useless, yet, in the early settie-
ment of this place, it was a post of considerable
importance in checking the incursions and ravages
of the Indians.
Immediately opposite Cincinnati is the entrance
of Licking River, a considerable stream, nearly as
large as the Alleghany, and navigable for about
one hundred miles. On the point formed by the
junction of the two streams, is situated the town
of Newport, in the State of Kentucky, consisting
of about thirty houses. This is likewise a military
station, containing at all times a considerable sup-
ply of milit^ stores for the convenience of the
western country. Here we found two gun boats
belonging to the United States, waiting for a fresh
to take them over the falls ; they were built at
Marietta, and are about the size of large Albany
sloops.
I first noticed the growth of the cane below
the mouth of the Great Sciota River, which
lies near the thirty-eighth degree of north latitude.
There it was very small, rising to little more than
three feet in height ; but, as you descend, you ob-
serve it to increase in size and quantity, until the
banks of the river become covered with an im-
penetrable growth.
■-'-*-i#*i.
■■''i*».ij»«*~^tt,_.
Ig3
I shall set cut from this place to-morrow, but
intend to make some stay at the Falls of Ohio,
from whence you will hear from me again.
yours,
c. s.
t . \'
184
LETTER XVI.
Louisvilie, Kentucky, {Falls of Ohio,)
October 10, 1807.
Dear Friend,
AFTER leaving Newport, and descending
the nver twenty-four miles, you pass the mouth
of the Great Miami River, which falls into the
Ohio from th^ right side, near the line which di-
vides the State of Ohio from the Indiana Territo-
ry. This is a large and rapid river, being nearly
two hundred yards wide at its mouth, although it
IS said to lose much of its breadth as you ascend
towards its source: it is navigable for one
hundred and thirty miles. One of its branches
approaches within four miles of a branch of the
Miami of the Lake; while another, by a portage
of seven or eight miles, communicates with the
Sandusky River, which likewise empties itself into
Lake Erie. The Great Miami, I am informed,
becomes somewhat difficult of navigation for the
last forty or fifty mUes, the charniel being stony
185
and the current very swift. Forts Washington
Ham,hon, St. Clair, Jefibrsbn, GrcnvilJe, Reco!
very, Acfeims and Defiance, are u chain of posts
commanding a ready communication Ix^tween the
Ohio and Lake Erie, by means of the two Mi.
amis The rapid increase of population through-
out this charming country will, in all probability
shortly preclude the necessity of retaining them
for the same puqwse. Two miles below the
mouth of the Great Miami is the «te of a small
town named Lawrenceburgh ; this is only re
markable as being the first town and settlement
you pass in the Indiana Territory. Descending
thence twenty-four miles, we arrived at Big Bone
Lhik Creek, in the State of Kentucky.
Big Bone Lick is celebrated for the incredibly
large bones found in its vicinity, which have not
only amazed and astonished, but likewise puzzled
the learned world. Horns have been found here
measuring fifteen feet in length, fifteen inches in
Circumference, and M'eighing nearly one hundred
pounds; teeth or grinders from five to twelve
pounds weight, and other bones in proportion.
That this animal, which has been denominated
the mammoth, is now extinct, is, I believe, the gene
rally received opinion, although, I am informed, the
Indians cherish a tradition that he still exists un-
known in the west.*
* Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes on Virginia, informs us,
that several chiefs of the Delaware^ being n-ltod hv a Go.
A
'
VOL. I.
A a
f
186
You no doubt recollect the skeleton of one
which was exhibited, a few years since in the city
of New-York; this, at that time, I thought a
monster, yet it was far from being as large as
those to which the largest of these bones once
belonged. This unwieldy monster has been sup-
posed, by competent judges, to have bee*? three
or four times as large as the greatest elep' \o
vcrnor of Virginia what they knew or had heard respecting
this animal, the chief speaker immediately put himself
into an oratorical attitude, and with a pomp suited to the
supposed elevation of his subject, informed him, that it
was a tradition handed down from their fathers, " That in
« ancient times a herd of them came to Big Bone Lick, and
« began a universal destruction of the bears, deer, elks,
« buffaloes, ahd other animals which had been created for
« the use of the Indians ; that th :reat Man above, looking
« down and seeing this, was so enraged that he seized his
" lightning, descended to the earth, seated himself upon
« a neighbouring mountain on a rock, on which his seat
« and the print of his feet are still to be seen, and hurled
«' his bolts among them, until the whole were slaughtered
« except the big bull, who presented his forehead, to the
« shafts and shook them off as they fell ; but at length
« missing one, it wounded him in the side ; whereupon,
« springing round, he bounded over Ohio, the Wabash and
« the Illinois, and finally over the Great Lakes, where he
« is living to this day."
Col. Morgan informs us, that upon putting similar
queries to a chief of the Iroquois tribe, whom he saw at
the Lick, he delivered himself as follows : " After the Great
« Spirit first formed the world he made the various
« birds and beasts which now inhabit it. He also made
187 .
is a graminivorous animal ; whereas this is now sup-
posed to have been carnivorous. If so, it surely
does not appear to have been well calculated lor
an inhabitant of this part of the globe in its pre-
sent state. Quere. May they not have lived in the
early part of my twenty -seven thousand years, and
the species have been destroyed by the general de-
luge ? Or is it possible for the bones of any animal,
in so exposed a situation, to resist the iron tooth of
" man ; but having formed him white., and finding him im-
" perfect and ill tempered, he placed him on one side of
" the earth, from whence he lately found a passage across
" the great water to be a plague to us. As the Great Spirit
« was not pleased with this work, he took some black clay,
« and made what you call a negro, with a woolly head.
" This black man was much better than tlie white man,
«' b^t still he did not please the Great Spirit. At last the
« Great Spirit, having found a piece of pure red clay,
" formed of it tlie red man, perfectly to his mind ; and was
« so wel' pleased with him that he placed him on this great
" island, separate from the white and black men, and gave
" him rules for his conduct. He increased exceedingly,
" and was perfectly happy for ages ; but the foolish young
" people at length despising his rules, became very wicked.
" Inconsequence of this, the Great Spirit created -the great
" buffalo, the bones of which you now see before us ;
" these made war upon the human species, and de-
" stroyed all but a few, who repented, and promised the
" Great Spirit to live according to his laws in future ;
" whereupon he sent thunder aiid lightning, and destroyed
*' the whole race in this spot, two excepted, a male and'
" female, which he shut up in yonder mountain, ready to
« let loose again, should occasion require."
#
188
ume during ao long a period ? Here is indeed an
extensive fteld for the speculations of the curious.
I have no doubt you would be highly gratified to
see it as ably handled as my ingenious calcuia-
tion on the destruction of the bed of the river by
the Falls of Niagara !
Thirty miles below Big Bone Lick Creek, and
on the same side, you perceive the Kentucky Ri-
ver, which, after having traversed the State in its
widest part, and passing through innumerable
tracts of the finest lands, here discharges its waters
into the general receiver, the Ohio. This river is
one hundred and fifty yards wide, and is navigable
for one hundred and sixty miles during a great
part of the year , but in dry seasons it is frequent-
ly obstructed with sliallows. Immediately at the
mouth of Kentucky River, which lies in latitude
38. 39. N. and 85. 2. W. is situatec^ a thriving
little town named Port William, consisting at pre-
sent of about forty houses. Frankfort, which is'
the seat of government, although not the capital
of the State, is situated on this river, about sixt}^-
five miles from its mouth, and is said to be in a
very flourishing condition, containing already
about two hundred houses. Several kirge ves-
sels have been launched on this river, and de-
scended to New. Orleans. Westport is forty-eight
miles below Port William, and contains only six
houses. I have observed, during my wholecourse
down this river, that the land rises and falls alter-
; I
•~A.
ISO
mtely on each side : whenever you see a flat on
one side you will always find a corre^onding ele-
vation on the opposite shore.
In descending- the Ohio River you frequently
pass what are here called floating mills ; they are
of a very simple construction, and consequently
the more valuable in a country so destitute of mill-
seats as this. The mill is supported by two large
canoes, with the wheel between them; this is
moored whenever they can fuid the strongest cur-
rent nearest to the shore, by die force of which
alone the mill is put into operation. You have
seen a razor-grinder wheeling his machine from
house to house in the city of New- York—this is
exactly the case with the mills I am now descri-
bing ; for they are literally floated up and down
the stream, wherever a customer calls. Should I
ever again attempt farming, it will most probably
be m this new country, for I well remember I lost
nearly one half of all my time and labour by send-
ing to mill; for let me call for whom I would, he
was always " gone to the mill." Here, therefore,
I may flatter myself with a better prospect of sue
cess, in that particular at least, for instead of the
farmer's going to niill, the mill eomes to him.
After leaving Westport we descended twenty
miles, and found ourselves at the head of the Falls
of Ohio, before the town of Louisville, six hun-^
dred and thirty miles below Pittsburgh. This
town is very handsomely situated oil an ekvated
tl il
I
190
bank on the left side of the river, ui the State of
Kentucky, about eight hundred yards above the
commencement of the rapids, and contains one
hundred and twenty houses ; it is the county town,
and carries on ship and boat- building with consi-
derable spirit ; several large vessels have already
been built, and the; many advantages which it en-
joys in luia respect, over all the towns above the
falls, bids fair to give it all the encouragement
it can wish. The country around Louisville is
perfectly level for some miles, and the elevation of
She town commands a beautiful prospect of the
smooth and gentle stream above, as well as the
rough and foaming billows of die falls below.
Louisville has lately been erected into a port of
entry and clearance, and lies in latitude 38. 14. N.
and 85. 29. W.
The river at this place appears to have acquired
a breadth of about one mile and a quarter ; and, as
the passage of the falls is dangerous to strangers
unacquainted with the navigation, tlie court ap-
points able and experienced pilots, who conduct
you over in safety. Our pilot informed us that
he received the same pilotage for a ship of three
hundred tons as for a canoe, which you may carry
on your shoulder, for, according to the act, " every
" boat shall pay two dollars for pilotage."
These falls, which may be considered as the
only real obstruction in the navigation of the Ohio
throughout a distance of nearly eleven hundred
)i
191 ^
miles, are occasioned by a bed of solid rocks ex-
tending from one side of the river to the other.
The water was low when we passed them, and ac-
cording to the pilot's account, no more than twen-
ty inches of water over them. I have, however,
seen too much water roll not to be able to form a
reasonable conjecture of the quantity necessary to
raise so violent a commotion as is here found, and
shall therefore venture to say there could not have
been less than three feet, but probably more. You
will perhaps be surprised at my stupidity in not
sounding the falls on our passage over them. I
certainly intended it, but, by beginning too soon,
I lost my pole, and before I could procure anotlier,
it being entangled under the rowers' oars, we had
passed the shoalest part of the fall.
When the river is high, I am told, there is not
the least appearance of any fall, except that the
current is somewhat swifter at this place than or-
dinary ; but when low, as at present, nearly two
thirds of the breadth of the river may be walked
over without wetting your ancle. There are three
different passages or shoots over these falls, all
depending, however, on the state of the water. The
principal is nearest the Indiana shore ; the middle
is the next best ; and the third, or Kentucky shoot,
is only passable with the larger vessels during the
highest stage of the water. Two fine large ships,
of two hundred and fifty and three hundred tons
burthen, were lying upon the falls as we de-
m
\i
I
I
192
H
■i
sccndcd the river, having attempted to pass
without a sufficient rise of the water ; they had
their keels knocked out, and were otherwise con-
sklerably damaged. Their 'situations were con-
sidered so very precarious that the one which
ought to have been worth ten tliousand dollars,
was sold at public auction for fifteen hundred
only.
The descent of these falls appears to have been
accurately surveyed, and found to be twenty-two
feet and a half in two miles. The legislature of
Kentucky have incorporated a company for the
purpose of opening a canal from the mouth of
Bear Grass Creek, which runs hi front of the
town to the foot of the falls below. The ground
has been bored, and every way examined for the
purpose, and it is considered as practicable. The
only difficulty remaining, is that of raising a suffi-
cient capital to undertake it. When, therefore, -
this is once effected, the only serious obstruction
in the navigation of the Ohio will be removed.
Immediately opposite Louisville, in the Indiana
Territor}% is situated the flourishing little town
of JefFersonville, consisting at present of forty
houses ; it bids fair to become a place of consi-
derable importance. At the foot of the falls, and
in the same territory, is another village, of the
name of Clarksville, consisting of four or five
houses only, and situated a little above the mouth
V !
U'
193
of Silver Creek, a small stream which there empties
into the Ohio.
It may be of some service to you, should you
ever take a trip this v^xy, and become a " cap-
tain," like myself, that I have attained that honour
before you ; for aUhough 1 may not be able to
instruct 3-ou what you ought to do, yet my expe.
rience will enable me to inform you what you ought
not to do. You must never, on any account,
advance money to your boatmen. One of my
hands, being arrested by a constable for a debt of
eight or ten dollars, at the moment we were
leaving the shore, I paid the money without the
least hesitation, thinking to deduct it from his
wages. After descending a mile or two, I observed
a fine stream of spring-water on the shore, and
expressing a desire to have a keg filled with it,
this fellow was ready in an instant ; we accord'
ingly landed him, and, after waiting near an hour,
and receiving no answer to our repeated alls'
I sent our pilot after him ; but the fellow had left
the keg at the spring, and escaped to the
woods. Another agreed with me at Cincinnati to
go the whole voyage down to New-Orleans, or
up the Mississippi, as I should think proper, at
twenty.five dollars a month. Just as we were
ready to start, his wife came down to see him
off— She had no money— she might want a little
before Josey returned—and, finally, could not I
ii
vox. I.
B b
^
-x
^ ^
ill
194
oblige her with one month's advance, as Josey
would probably continue with me three or four
months ? I let her have the twenty -five dollars,
and the second night after, the rascal ran away ♦
Yours,
G. S.
I
195
LETTER XVII.
^ Cumberland, Kentucky, October 6, 1807.
Dear Friend,
AFTER leaving the FaUs of Ohio, and de-
scending twenty -five miles, you pass the mouth of
Salt River, which enters the Ohio from the left
side. This river takes its name from some salt
springs, which are now worked, at a considera-
ble distance from its mouth. It is about one
hundred and thirty yards in breadth, and naviga-
ble for a distance of nearly seventy miles. A small
town has btely been laid out at its mouth, named
West- Point, containing only four houses or cabins.
Five miles below Salt River I expected to see the
town of Ohiopiomingo, so beautifully described
by Winterbotham. I was therefore not a little
disappointed to see it rivalled by the one last
mei\iioned.
I observed that the land on either side to this
place continued generally level from the river,
yet very few settlements make their appearance
'.^s
ih.
B.J 'I
ft
196
in front The greatest population is inland ; con-
sequently the greatest improvements have been
made there.
Thirty miles below West-Point, you pass Blue
R.ver which comes in from the right, through
M and gentle stream. It is fifty yards in breadth,
and navigable for forty miles. It is said, that by
removmg some slight obstructions, arising from
lodges of trees and driftwood, the navigation may
be extended ten or twelve miles further. From
Blue River you descend a distance of one hun-
dred and twenty miles, without passing either
to«™ or streams, excepting a few dry c^s, and
now and then a solitary settlement, scarcelV as
large as the surface of your boat. Hitherto the
landscape has been particularly pleasing, affording
a most agreeable variety of hills, valleys, ani
mountams on one side of the river or the other
but now, they have vanished entirely from the
?.ght, and the horizon arom,d presents nothi,«. ,o
your view, but an immense tract of level cham
paign country, as far as the eye can discern.
^ After having proceeded about -iiirty ^Ues
through , his flat countiy, you pass the mouth o
Green R,ver, which falls into the Ohio from the
left shore This is a beautiful stream, being abou
one hundred and eighty yards in .breadth, navi. .
gable fo. one hundred and sixty miles, and pre-
»entmg to the eye a far gt^ater degree of tmnspa-
197
i^ncy than the Ohio itself. Its mouth lies in lat.
37 59. N. and long. 37. 13. W. Twenty-two miles
below Green River, and likewise in the State of.
Kentucky, you arrive at the town of Henderson,
or as It IS more commonly called. Red Banks.
This village, which contains about forty houses,
IS situated on the second bank, about one quarte;
. of a mde from the river, owing to the nearest
banks being subject to be overflowed with every
ordinary rise of the river; which still continues
Its breadth of about one mile and a quarter, nither
mcreasmg. Green River, befbre mentioned, is no
more than seven miles distant from Henderson by
land, but owing to an extraordinary bend in the
river, it is twenty-five miles by water
One evening, a little after sunset, bdow a place
called Diamond Island, as we were laHtffng on the
shore, we discovered a bear which had just entered
the river about one quarter of a mile aboVe us, on
the opposite shore, with the intention of crowing
over to our side. I have ever been anxious, while
on these waters, to shoot at least one of these ani-
mals, but have always been disappointed. This I
thought a most favourable opportunity ; accord-
mgly I took^ a rifle, and proceeded, under cover
ot the willows, to the spot where I concluded the
current would land him. I soon found myself
conveniently posted; and at the moment he -
stood stiU to shake him^lf, I fired, and shot
? I
198
■,#
l^im 4own» He, however, rtcovered suffi-
ciendy to ascend the bank, and passed me So
close, that in a fright I jumped down, with
the intention of retreating to the river. But
finding he made no pursuit, I reloaded ray piece,
followed his trail, which was covered with blood,
and found him dead about one hundred yards
distant from the place where he passed me. We
afterwards fouud the ball had entered in at the
breast, and passed out at the left flank.
From Henderson, which is the last town on the
Ohio, you proceed forty- six miles, when you ar-
rive at the mouth of Wabash River. This is a
large and beautiful stream of water emptying itself
into the Ohio from the right side, and navigable
for a distance of two hundred and twenty miles,
interrupted, however, by several rapids, among
which the two principal are known by the hemes
of the second and third Grand Rapids. This river
is about two hundred and eighty yards wide at its
mouth, and is the largest stream which I have yet
seen enter the Ohio. St. Vincent, which is said to
be a considerable tovyn, and the seat of govern-
ment for the Indiana Territory, is situated about
one hundred and fifty miles from the mouth.
Some valuable salt springs have been found on
this river, as likewise a silver mine ; but few of
the silver discoveries made in this country have
t^ver paid for the time and trouble lost in exa-
mining: them. .A communication with Lake Erie,
by means of a short popfcAge from the head waters
of the one to the other, is opened through this
rivei^: dne of its bra»ichc« communicating M-ith
the river St. Tosieph, and another with the eastern,
most brarch of the Miami of the Ikkt,
From the mouth of the Wal>ash, where thet« is
only one settlement, you descend thirty miles, and
arrive at Shawanese Town, an old Indian settle-
ment on the right side of the river, situated a little
above a small stream named Salina Creelt. This
town is now wholly abandoned by its ancient pro-
prietors, and only occasionally visited by a few ol"
them for the purpose of trading with five or six
white families, who compose the whole of its set-
tlement at present. Considerable quantities of salt
are made on the aforementioned creek, and of a
very good quality ; the springs belong to the go-
vemment, and are leased out to certain contractors,
who are hound not to sell the salt higher than half
a dollar a bushel at the works. These, therefore,
have their private coparinet^, who buy all at the
lawful price ; and as the property has then appn.
rently changed pwners, they sell none at tlie store-
houses for less than two doilari a bushel.
About five or six miles below Shawanese Town,
and on the opposite shore, you pass some high
and curiously shaped rocks, which, at a distance,
bear a most striking resemblance to a range of
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aoft
forts and batteries, and have very appropriately
obtained the name of the Battery Rocks.
The face of the country here undergoes, another
change; the dull, uniform, and uninterrupted bori-
zon, which has tired and fatigued the eye fgi: the
last hundred and fifty miles, now rises again on
each side of the river alternately, and to me ex-
cites far more agreeable sensations, than the ridi
plains we have just passed.
> After having passed the Battery Rocks, you
descend about seven miles further, and arrive at
a very curious cavern called The Cave in the
Rock, situated oa the right bank of the river, in
the Territory of Indiana. . The entrance to this
singular excavation is immediately on the margin
of the river, the whole of vVhich, at this place,
presents a solid mass of perpendicular rocks. The
door, or mouth, which is of a semicircular form,
is twenty-seven paces in width,' and about three
or four and twenty in height, but partly obscured
by the foliage of some trees and brush, now
growing in front. Its lies twenty or five and
twenty feet above the surface of the river at pre-
sent ; but when the water is higher, I presume it
may be entered in a canoe. After having entered
a few yards, you find yourself in a large and spa-
cious room, sixty-two paces in length, and almost
the same in wid^h, with a projection, something
like a bench, nearly all around ; and the ceiling,
or roof, which is of an elliptical form, is about
1
201
thJrty feet in height. In many places yoq may
observe several rude attempts with chalk or char-
7f M T^ '°'"' ^^"^ "^ ' ^^"^^^ °^ fig"^^' but
r could find no resemblance to any thing « in the
heavens above, in the earth beneath, or in the
waters under th.e earth.- In some few places you
may learn the names of former visitors, which
tiiey have left inscribed on the rock. I could not
help observing what a very convenient situation
this would be for a hermit, or for a convent of
monks, as it is large enough to accommodate se-
veral hundreds of them. From an examination of
Ae cave, I have no doubt that it has been the
dwelhng of some person or persons, as the marks
of the smoke, and likewise some wooden hooks
aflfixed to the walls, sufficienUy prove. Formerly'
perhaps it was inhabited by Indians; but since
with more probability, by a gang of that banditti*
headed by Mason and others, who a few years
ago mfested this part of the countiy, and commit.
ted a great number of robberies and murders
Near the centre of the roof you discover an
aperture, which is sufficiently large to admit a
man, and, at first view, has die appearance of bein^
mtended to carry off the smoke ; but, as I have
been informed, leads to another pavem above. I
intended to- make some contrivance to ascend to
It ; but, in consequence of the storm which blew
on shore, and a heavy swell which threatened to
VOL. I.
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f
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202
1 I
dash our boat to pieces against the rocks, I t^as
under the necessity of hastening my depfttturer
Had I, however, discovered any thing that pro-
mised fimher amusement, I should not have re-
garded walking back four or five miles, after having
secured the boat in a place of safet}'.
Four miles below the cave you pass Hurricane
liand, a passage formerly considered as very dan-
cerous, but at present has nothing terrific but the
Aamc. Twenty-five miles below the island, you
come to a public ferry, where one of the princi.
pal roads from Kentucky to the Missouri crosses
the river ; and five miles flirther, on tlie left side,
you arrive at the mouth of Cumberland River,
Tltis stream, which is likewise known by its
more ancient name of the Shawanese Ri^r, is
abottt two hundred and eighty yard* wide, aiul
has its soii^ee 4n the Cumberland mountains. It i«
navigable for loaded boats of sixty barrels, as fa*
as Nashville, which is about sixty miles from its
mouth, and still further for smaller craft; but
durmgthe drj' season, no large boats can ascend
with any thing like a loading.
At the mou^h of Cumberland River, which lies
in lat. 37. 17. N. long. 88. 7. W., is a small set-
tlement called Smith Town, consisting of only
five houses. The situation, however, b ex-
tremely eligible for further improvement ; for not
only are large quantities of cotton, tobacco, and
Glhcr produce, annually floated down this stream,
203
IS ex-
; for not
jco, and
i stream,
but likewise most of the boats descending to New
Orleans or Natchez, generally make a halt here,
either for hands, provisions, boats, or repairs.
This little place, contrary to all others which I
have seen on these waters, possesses a greatei
number of inhabitants, at present, thiui its size
would lead us to suppose. It appears to be a
kind of inland port, where runaway boys, idle
young men, and unemployed boatmen, assemble
to engage as hands on board of any boats that
may happen to call. ,
An amusement has already been introduced at
this place, which, although excusable in large
towns and cities, yet in a new country, "and espe-
cially in an infant settlement like this, cannot be
too much condemned. You will scarcely believe,
that in a place just emerging from the woods,
which, although advantageously situated, can pros-
per only by dint of industry and care, and where
the girdled trees which surround its houses threaten
with every storm to crush the whole settlement,
— you will scarcely believe, I say, that a billiard-
table has been established, which is continually
surrounded by common boatmen, just arrived
from the Salt Works, St. Louis, or St. Genevieve,
who in one hour lose all the hard-earned wages of
a two months voyage !
A few miles below Hurricane Island, we
were considerably alarmed one evening by the
whistling of a rifle-shot, which passed just over
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''''•i*WMI»j6ilMp^i*«ijll(^
264>
0.
IK
our heads, after striking the water between us and
the shore, which was about four hundred yards
distant. We observed three Indians on the banks
from whence the shot proceeded, and the boatmen
were decidedly of opinion that it was fired at us ;
but it was more probably aimed at a deer, which
happened at that moment to be on the bank, nearly
in a right line with the boat, and, missing its
object, it had passed rather too close to us.
I had nearly forgotten to mention a singular
circumstance which occurred on the river a few
miles above this place. Very early in the morn-
ing, the men who were on the watch informed
me that a large bear was crossing the river just
below, and requested permission to take the canoe
and give him battle. I consented, and at the same
time got up to see the sport. Our two sailors set
oft"; but as there happened to be no flint in the
rifle, they took my long fowling-piece, which was
loaded with buck-shot. They paddled with ail
their strength, reserving their fire until they
came within ten yards of the bear, who was fast
gaining the opposite shore, when one of them
fired, but overshot his mark. The boat, all this
time, was under such great way, that before they
could recover their paddles to check her, she ran
along side of the bear, who immediately seized the
gunwale of the boat with both paws, and before
they could rise up to assail him with their paddles,
ft r
205
he overturned the canoe, and made for the shore.
One of the men had the presence of mind to dive
under water, to avoid being clinched by the bear;
the other, with Inore courage than prudeace, fol-
lowed him with a paddle, but finding he could
not prevent his escape, presently returned to the
canoe. I was much diverted with this whimsical
bear-hunt, until I discovered that it was likely to
be more at my expense than even at that of the
disappointed hunters ; as the bear,. in overturning
the canoe, had sent my gun to the bottom. The
water was not more than five feet deep where this
accident happened ; yet we were detained more
than two hours before we recovered the gun.
I have already informed you, that the naviga-
tion of the Ohio is so perfectly safe, as to require
no particuk. directions in addition to those given
in some of my former letters on this subject. I
find it necessary, however, to give you a word or
two respecting the fogs and falsity of vision at
night, which are so frequently met with on this
river, and, although not attended with any parti-
cular danger, yet they are often the means of
your taking a wrong course, and bewildering
yourself among the islands.
The Ohio, particularly in the spring, is subject
to be covered with fogs, which sometimes remain
suspended over the river for three or four hours
after sun-rise, during which it is very difficult to
know which is the nearest shore, unless previously
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il
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acquwntc^ with the old Indian mode of ascertain-
ing UiU point. These fogs continue longest, and
are moht frequent, on that part of the river lying
below Cincijinati a„d the Falls, down to the Mia-
aissippi, but higher up are far less troubjcsome.
The Ohio, throughout its whole course» (with
Tery few exceptions,) is subject to a very strong
fcho; and the method to ascertain the proximity
of either shore, is to strike the boat with a dub
or an axe,, and the echo will be first heard from tht
nearest shore. But when in a situation where no
echo is R'turncd, or where the water is too deep
to be sounded with a pole, or when not provided
with a line, tiike a tin cup, and dip up water from
you on each side of the boat, and the re sistance
of the current, upon one of the trials, will soon
satisfy you which way it is setting.
The falsity of vision during the night, on the
Ohio, is a phenomenon for which I am totally
unable to account. The facts, however, as they
simply occur, are as follows : Oftentimes, when
descending this river in the night, you have an
inclination to land ; you generally make for the
nearest shore, which to all appearance is not more
than thiriy or forty yards distant; yet, after
/owing for half an hour, you find yourself, appa.
rently no nearer than you were before. At other
times you will suppose yourself " in the middle of
the river, at least half a mile from either shore ;
yet, after ten minutes rowing, you will find your-
207
self all at once ashore. The surest way to be
out of ihc reach of this deception, when you do not '
wish to land, is to take the middle of the river,
and there observe the reflection of the banks and
trees on the water. You will then discover,
that the reflection of the trees on either side ex-
tend to more than one-third of the general width
of the river, whilst between them you will see a
clear space like a channel ; and as long as you
keep within this space, you are beyond the reach
of the magic circle.
The price of land along the Ohio, as you will rea-
dily suppose, depends on its quality and situation.
Good improved bottom lands on the river, sell
from two to ten dollars an acre; further back,
from two to five doaars ; but rough hilly lands,
containing small portions of good land, may be
bought in large tracts from one dollar down to
fifty cents an acre.
t
Yoiu^,
C. S.
KND OF THE FIRST VOLUME
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