V ;'>*/•:• ..v':. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i^y^ .J^A/-" ■;? 1.0 nil I.I 1^ 1^ 131 !!f 1^ 2.2 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 -^ 6" — ► V] ^ ^v » 4 Hiotographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 I ^'■.:.;>"->*n % f/j (/. i CIHM/iCMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy wh (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. 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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd d partir de I'angie supdrieur gauche, de gauche k droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 iii H M 1 It lilliil SMiiii !l!l!! WM mmm. " I )■ .^..^.., ■>;-,•/•' it-^I'll f.\;,,ll, ./..., // :h ). rk Ditlixh..! !r I Itil.i U;v . : H ), ,■/, Ditlixh. ./ .'r / /,'(■/, I Mn- Ifh 1 } ^v JhMJAat/ 6j/ I.Itiley, isto . i i i ni i t. i i litwa i i i TRAVELS ON AN INLAND VOYAGE fHHOUGH THlf S^AW OF NEW.YORK, PENNSYLVANIA, VIHGINJJ. OHIO, KENTUCKY AND TENNESSEE, AND TSTHOUOII THE TERRITORJE^oF INDIANA, LOVISIANAy^ MISSISSIPPI AND NEtV-aULEANS, ■ A 4 PBRFQJIMKB ,1 i»»J • , IN,tHETft;AIiS 1807 ANI> 1808; INCLUDING A TWR OF NEARLY SIX THOUSA ND MILES. WITH MAPS AND PLATES. BY CHRISTIAN SCJIULTZ, JUN, ESQ. I »■ . , IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I. f| NEW-YORK : Printed by Isaac Riley. isto. i ■M -M DISTRICT OF NEW-YORK, w. R^,/\'*!'^^^V'^'**'^'^' 'T'"'^ "" the twentieth day of March in thrtVt e Va twk t .t rili. u" «'•'«'"';'■'."'• '•"'*' '''•P"«ted in .his office " Te ri^Hey,^J^i"di;na^'t.'^""'"''''ir*? T''"."e»'>ee. and th^gh the " «. ... I ^ u Indiana, LomsianH, Wigtiss pp and New-Orleana • ner. copies during the Umes therein mentioned ;" and also t an act entiUed « 5-"lea.^ni'n"rK ""'*•'' V '"'^ «"^'"«'»' «" ««* for the enco wSt" auinois ana proprietdm of such copies, dur n«r the times therein mon graving and etching historical and othef prints." «^'"K'"nK. lb- CHARLES CLINTON, Clerk of the District of New-York. PREFACE. THE folio rt-ing letters were not originally intended for the eye of the public, but were written rather as a means of recreation to the author, and of amusement to his par- ticular friend. Nor does he now, but with the greatest diffidence, and after repeated solicitations, consent to their being made public. From the earliest information he had acquired respect- ing the geographical situation of the route he has travelled, it has always been a favourite object with him, at some time or other, to undertake this voyage, as well to view the cele- brated cataracts of Niagara, as to acquire a personal know- ledge of the country. Although yet young in life, he has always been accus- tomed to combine pleasure with profit ; and had not some land speculations required his presence in that country, in all probability this voyage had still remained to be per- formed. The route is generally known, yet, strange as it may ap- pear, no correct information could be obtained as to the distances, mode of travelling, the time required, the ex- penses incurred, nor of the risks and dangers to be encoun- ■tered. These inquiries have been particularly attended to ; and the minuteness and fideUty with which they will be found to be answered, is perhaps the only merit to which he can lay claim. The Map of the United States, including the whole of Louisiana, is intended to shew at one view the principal rivers and towns nf the interior, with the relative situation IV If ol" the clucf rivfirs, towns and cities on the sca-coa«t. It is not, there f- re, crowded with names aid boundary lines. The Maps of tlic rotite from New-York to Pittsl)uigh, from Piti!n tlu; oiU», or to be uUi-mucI at the noiiC of tJu; flfwd. « The boat uutantly twjk the finrt suction of Ujc full, in- « creused b velocity to a jfreat dejjrce, puasexl through all " the mazes of the channel till she came to the last 4cH£«fit, « when tumhlinR, tost, and regardless of her helm, shu«pua " rounfl a»d roimd, and at length shot ahead down the " stream. Astonishing country ! Here again the hills sub- « sided, the face of nature smil, d, tin- current difl'used, and " the river became a perfect calm On looking hack to " contemplate the dangi r I had just escaped, I could but " faintly see the foaming s.ngc, or hear the horrid clamour. " I never experienced a more eventful moment than in the " passage of that fall." (See page 121.) There is no tuch fall, nor indeed any other, on any part of the Ohio above Marietta. This traveller has only made a trifling mistake of about ninety-aix miles. The " Pitts- « burgh Navigator," while describing the passage of Le- tart's Fd'quirrels....Buffaloe Fdlage....Indian Council..., Games, , . , 94. VOL. I. Q i^»^ »i!!»* « fc .,iB» .^MmjJhHMI'^Mn LETTER X. Lake Erie.,. ..Storm Dangerous navigation Freight and passage to Presque Isle....Chau^ taughqu Landing and Lake. ...Presque Isle, or Town of Erie.... Harbour.... Dispute ofthe Penn- sylvania Population Company.. ..Fort... .General Anthony Wayne. ...Fort Le Beauf or Water- ford.... Freight. ...Severe frost in August. ...Le Beauf Creek. - - - '103 LETTER XL Lake Le Beauf. ..French Creek,...Meadville..„ Cassavja Creek.... Fort Franklin, or Franklin- ville.... Alleghany River. ...Toby Creek.... Sandy Creek.... Mahoning Creek. ...Town of Armstrong Kiskemanitas River Freeport Buffaloe Creek. ...A Bear. ...An Alleghany supper.... Wild Turkeys. . . . Fish. . . . Pittsburgh. . . . Freight and pas- sage.... Monongahe la jiiver. - - 114 LETTER XIL Ohio. ...Description of the Boats in use on this Ri- ver.... Prices. ...Fort M'Litosh, or Beaver.. ..Big Beaver Creek Georgetown Steubenville..... Charlestown... Mingo Bottom... Warren... .Wheel- ing. . . . Pxdtney. . . . Grave Creek. . . . Coal, . , . Freight and passage. ...Fish.. ..River turbid... .Height of Freshes Little Muskingiim River Duck Creek. ...Marietta.. ..Great Muskingum River.... Fort Harmar,... Improved Ferry-boat. 129 LETTER XIII. Description and plan of the Indian Antiquities found at Maritetta.... Speculations. - ' . 14G LETTER XIV. Excursion.... Lost in the Woods.,.. Favourable issue ....Burros Expedition... .Opinions.. ..Vienna.. ..Lit- tle Kanawa River ^ and Bellepre....Big Hockhock- ing River....Belleville....Letart^s Falls.. ..Point Pleasanty and Great Kanawa River. .. .Galliopo- lis....Big Sandy River. - - - 160 LETTER XV. French Grant. ...Great Sciota River... Portsmouth... Alexandria.. ..Vangeville,... Salt JVorks.... Squir- rels Adamsburgh Manchester Liberty Limestone.... Cha7'lestown iugusta.... Columbia ...Little Miami River. ..Cincinnati, Fort JFash- ingtouy Nexvporty and Licking River, 173 ■ff i ^' i^i ii,„ 3(11 LETTER XVI. Great Miami River.. .Lawrenceburgh..,. Big Bone Lick Creek. ...Kentucky River, Port William.,., rrestport.... Floating Mills....Louisville, Falls of Ohio, Jeffersonville, and Clarksville. 184 LETTER XVIL Salt River.., West.Point....Ohiopiomingo...Blue Ri. ver,...Flat Country.... Green River. ...Town of Henderson, or Red Banks. ...A Bear....jrabash Rrver....Shawanese Town....Salina Creek....Cu- rio'usCavern....Cumberland River..., Smith Town ...,Bear chace....Fogs, and falsity of vision on the Ohio. ...... ^j,5 ' ^Si-'L^4k.*M-::.. . ,^ ' 1. < *.•• .V...?-' •V':f ;f ,< i» '.'V ■*iSf' ■'<^-, VA n •. " V » . .. • ■ ♦ • . • '•4. TABLE DF DISTANCES. FIjom New- York to Albany, is Schenectady, " Fort Hunt€r, Canojoharie, Little Falls, Ut-ca, Fort Schuyler, Home, Fort Stanwix, Wood Creek, in length, Oneida Lake, in length, Onondago River, in length, From Three River Point to Liverpool, Salina, salt works, Oswego River, in length to Lake Ontario, Fort Niagara, Lake- Ontario, Lewistown and Queenstown, Niagara Falls, Fort Schlosser, Chippaway Village, Black Rock, Lake Erie, Fort Erie and Village, Presque Isle and Fort, Lake Erie Fort Le Beauf, Waterford, Mile$ not in- cluded. •«*••£! 13 3 18 160 15 25 20 13 46 16 24 30 20 12 7 7 1 22 7 90 14 160 175 200 220 233 279 295 '319 349 369 381 546 553 560 561 583 590 6fi0 694 43 12 N. 43 28 N 43 ION 42 53 N 42 18 N 41 2 N. 75 27 W. 76 SI W. 79 15 W. 78 59 W. 80 8 W. 79 5:^ W. \ I XIV . » r Lc Beauf Creek, in length, French Creek. . Mcadvillc, Fort Franklin, Alleghanv River. Armstrong, Pitlsburgli, . Ohio River. Beaver Town, Fort M'lntosh, Georg'etown, Steubenville, Gharleslown, Warren, Wheeling, Pultney, Grave Creek, , i Middle Island, ' Marietta, Vienna, Little Kanawa River, and Bellepre Big Hockhocking River. Belleville, Letart's Falls, Point Pleasant, and Great Ka- nawa River, Galliopolis, Big Sandy River, French Settlement, Portsmouth, and Great Sciota River, Alexandria, Vangeville, and Salt Creek, Manchester, I'imestone, Charlestown, ■ Augusta, Columbia, and Little Miam River, Cinci'inati, Great Miami River, Miles not in- eluded. 18 18 ''"^^- Jm!. : I"-. ItOllff. 57 30 85 42 694 roo 757 7«r 41 24 N 30 10 19 7 9 10 7 8 27- 43 9 2 17 3 40 29 5 58 20 18 2! 17 14 6 12 37 f) 24 872 914 944 954 973 980 989 999 1006 1014 1041 1084 1093 1095 1112 1115 1155 1184 1189 1247 1267 1285 1306 1323 1337 1343 1355 40 26 N 40 5 N. 39 25 N 79 50 W. 79 51 W 39 11 N, 80 34 W. 8U9W. 81 36 W. 38 51 N. 81 57 Vf. 38 25'N. 82 28 W. 1392 1398 1422 38 44 N 38 36 N. 39 39 6N 6N. 82 49 W. 83 38 W. 84 18 W, 84 36 W. XV 24 N. 79 50 W 5 N. 80 34 W. 15-N. 82 28 W. Lawrenceburgh, BijjBone Lick Creek, Port William, and Kentucky River, Westport, Louisville, and Falls of Ohio, Jeffersonville, Clarksville, West Feint, and Salt River, Blue River, Anderson's FeriT, Gi-een River, Henderson, Red Banks, Wabash River, Shawanese Town, Battery Rocks, Cave, Smiilitown, and Cumberland River, Tennessee River, Fort Massack, Ce(!ar Blufls, and Cherokee Ti.wn, Bi(r Chain <.f Rocks, Mouth of Ohio, Up the Mississippi. Grand Chain of Rocks, Grurd Towers, Cape Girardeau, Ticket Isl.md Passage, St Geimvleve, Prairie De RocHe, Fort Chaitres, Americ.'in Bottom, Cahokia, St. Louis, Mouth of Missouri River, St. Louis, Carondelet, Merrimack Ford, Bi(r Ri^er, Old Mines, Mine J.e Berton, New Diggings, Mines of Garberie, AbttfH not in (lulled 18 15 6 15 54 23 7 6 15 45 O 14 14 6 1.5 45 17 7 n O 1:3 341 Milet. , Total I Mtlei. 2 24 30 48 20 2 25 30 72 58 23 46 30 6 7 34 12 12 16 4 25 1422 1424 1448 1478 1526 1546 1548 1573 1603 1675 1733 1755 1801 1831 1837 1814 1878 1890 1902 1918 1922 1947 Lat. 38 39 N. 38 14 N. Long. 85 2W. 85 29 W. 37 59 N.i87 13 W. 37 17 N. 36 59 N ■ \: •r 88 rw. 88 45 W. .IS 27 N. 89 36 W. n . xvi Mine LaMotte, St. Genevieve, Piatine Creek, Kaicle, Fort Chartres, and St Genevieve, Mississippi River, OES':£NDlNO. From Mouth of Missouri to St. Louis, Cahokia, . Fort Chartres, St. Genevieve, New Bourbon and Kaskas- kias, Salira Creek, and salt works, Kaskaskias River, Picket Island Passage, Muddy River, Indian Village, Cape Girardeau, Grand Towers, Grand Chain of Rocks, Mouth of Ohio, Fort Jefferson, Iron Banks, Chalk Banks Bayou de She, New Madrid, Little Prairie, Bayou Riviere, Flour Island, Upper Chickasaw Bluffs, Second Chickasaw Bluffs, Devil's Race Groun^l, Third Chickasaw Bluffs, Wolf River, Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, and Fort Pickering, Fort Pike, Council Island, St. Francis River, Settlements, Bayou, and Old Channel, White River, Arkansas River, not in- dtided. 341 17 54 40 49 Mlet. 501 14 57 13 3 7 6 24 16 4 10 15 6 15 5 15 5 18 32 33 27 44 11 16 10 32 1 1 3i 32 5 74 6 22 2562 Total Jiniet. Lat. Long: 1947 1961 1964 2021 2034 2037 2044 2050 2074 2090 2094 2104 2119 2125 2140 2145 2160 2165 2183 2215 2348 2275 2319 2321 2332 2348 2358 2390 2391 2392 2423 2155 2460 2534 2540 39 18 N. 37 51 N 37 17 N. 89 36 W, 89 28 W. 89 8W. 36 59 N. 88 45 W 36 34 N. 89 20 W 35 36 N. 89 37 W. 35 1 N. 89 54 W. 34 44 N. 90 29 W. 34 IN, 91 4W. N -N JjOt. Long: 39 18 N. 89 36 W, [37 51 N 89 28 W^ 37 17 N. 89 8 W 6 59 N. 88 45 W. 36 34 N. 89 20 W 35 36 N. 89 37 W. 35 1 N. 34 44 N, 34 IN, 89 54 W. 90 29 W- 91 4W. 3EVU not in- cluded. Creek^ right bank. Out' I, same side. Grand Lake, Long Reach, £n(i of Reach* Wolf Island, Old Channel, Yazoo River, W.dnut Hills, Palmvra, Little Yazoo River, Grand Gulph, Bavtui Pierre, Petit Gulph, Cole's Creek, Natchez, White Cliffs, Hona C! Uo River, Loftus' Heights, and Fort Adams, Line of Demarcation, Red River, Bavon Cliaffalaia, Bajou Tunica, Tunica Village, Point Coupee Chtirch, Fausse Riviere, Bayou Crocodile, Little Cliffs, Baton Rouge, ' Bayou Manshac, Bayou Flacquemine, Manshac Church, Bayou Fourche, and Church, Cantrell's Church, Banna Cara Church, Rouge Chiu-ch, New-Orleans, English Turn, Fort Placquemines, Passes of Mississippi, Fort Balize» VOL. I. 501 Milet. 501 25 25 58 18 10 80 18 7 12 25 27 1 10 10 23 34 20 27 8 S 10 3 45 10 12 5 2 3 24 15 8 10 22 16 17 18 30 18 Total Mile*. Lat. 2562 2587 2612 2670 2688 2698 2778 2796 2803 2815 2840 2867 2868 2878 2888 2911 2945 2965 2992 3000 3005 3015 3018 3063 3073 3085 3090 3092 3095 3119 3134 3142 3152 3174 3190 3207 3225 .3255 3273 Long. « 32 26 N 90 52 W. 31 32 N. 91 15 W, 31 5 N 31 ON. 31 5 N 91 22 W. 91 37 W. 30 29 N. 91 10 W. 29 57 N. 25 3298 24 3322 20 3342 ) 3342 89 55 W. xvm Havanna, Double Head Keys, Nuith Bahama Shoals, Off Hatteran, Off- Sandy Hook, Milei not in- cluded. MIet. Total Mile,. Lat. 501 334^ 320 300 195 53u 350 30 5187 501 50X iMUff. 15688 i r i I '■^- TRAVELS. LETTER I. ^tica, Mohawk River, July 15, 1807. Dear Friend, AGREEABLY ,o your request and my p^. ZZl 'rrT™""' '''"'='''"e. for your amL ment, the few hasty observmions I have made on •ny voyage to this place ; yet, as these will neither beve,j_„ewnor interesting to you, who are equally well mfor^ed as to the state of improvements thus tar, 1 shal occasionally introduce such little in- cidents as may occur on my ^yage, being «t.sfied with the sincerity of your avowal, tha! any thmg from me will be acceptable " You desired me to be particular in describing the several to,vns and streams I pass on my route the respective distances between them, the time' occupied and manner of traveUing from one to another, as well as an accoum of tlie expenses, risks and dangers to be incurred in an inland vovage of the kmd I am now performmg. AH these 1 shall endeavour to attend to in their proper time and \ OX • I ♦ - I place ; and, should I fail in affording you all the satisfaction or amusement you may have anticipa- ted, it will not be from want of any exertion on my part. The navigation of the Hudson, from New- York to Albany, is one hundred and sixty miles, and so generally known, that you cannot expect any thing amusing in any account I might attempt to give you, either of the grandeur o;r elevation of those highlands through which we pass, or of the many flourishing towns and villages which adorn the banks of this majestic river. I shall, therefore, proceed to those particulars which you are more anxious to learn. The passage to Albany generally takes up from two to five days, and costs from six to ten dollars for each passenger, including board. The freight upon bulky merchandise is forty cents a hundred pounds weight ; but heavy articles from twenty- five to fifty per cent. less. From Albany, which lies in latitude 42. 38. N. and 73. 44. W.* to Schenectady, you have fifteen miles over a very good turnpike road ; and the freightf over this portage is sixteen cents a hundred pounds weight. Many of these waggoners are great rogues, and, shou' 1 you chance to have occasion for their ser- * The longitude is always reckoned from London in these letters. t Freight and waggon hire are synonymous terms over «11 the portages. xertion on 5 terms over 3 vice, it will no. only be well ,0 be ve^ careful, buthkewise, ,o make your bargain before yoj ' mploy then., or, like me, you will have to 'ZyZ rattier small for a city ; notwithstanding which I ob -ved that the inhabitants always mate u^ ; he" la ter term when speaking of the place. It contains about four hundred and twenty housA, and is pTeT santly situated on the south side of tie Moitt nver, about six miles above the great Cohoel From Its situation at the commencement of ^e. tensive inland navigation, whose shores are daiW ncreasnig i„ wealth and population, tlxcre cai> te no doubt that, at a period not very far distant Schenectady will rank as one of the first interior cities of the United States. The freight from Schenectady to Utica a di, tance of one hundred and four miles b^waLL" scventy.five cents a hundmd weight. The car nage by land is the same. This is. owing totte great number of waggons, loaded withproducc vhic enter the cities of Albany and ScheLctdy,- "here, having discharged their loads, rather tli -mrn empty and earn nothing, the; are g ad" .ake a fa-igh, at the rate of water-cairiage. *cam, falls mto the Mohawk from the south SK.e a, a pi,ee called the Mohawk Flats a ^o.t Hunter, about twenty.five miles bovt Schenectady. Canada Creek is a eon.ideie lit il ■f i stream of water, which takes its rise ia a hilly, broken country, near the headwaters of Black River : it empties itself into the Mohawk on the north side, at a place called the. Herkimer Flats. The Tutconnodach, Coroje, and Lower Canada Creeks on the north side, and the Canojoharie, Otsquach, Saguett and Oriskany Creeks on the south side, arc all small and ti Ifliug- stremus, which afford but a partial supply to the main river. You will please to observe, as a general rule in future, that, in all my references with respect to the rivers and water-courses, I shall use the terms right and tej}, as the frequent windings and sudden turns of the rivers render it almost impossible to give the true bearings without a constant reference to the compass. I have noticed but three different kinds of boats used in navigating this river. Those called Sche- nectady boats are generally preferred; arid, will carry about ten tons burthen when the river is high ; but when it is low, as at this time, they will not take more than from three to four ; they generally advance against the stream at the rate of from eighteen to twenty or twenty- five miles a day. These boats are built very much after the model of our Long Island round- -bottoui skiffs, but proportionably larger, being from forty to fifty feet in length, and steered by a large swing oar of the same length. They have, likewise, a moveable mast in the middle. When the wind serves, they set a square-sail and top-sail, which, at a few miles distance, give them all the appearance of small square-rigged vessels coming down before the wind. Our galley, which, I am just now informed, is called the " Mohawk Regu- " lator," has gone at the rate of six miles an hour against the stream; and, during this time, be- lieve me, nothing can be more charming than sailing on the Mohawk. It is not often, however, that a fair wind will serve for more than three or four miles together, as the irregular course of the river renders its aid very pre- carious ; their chief dependence, therefore, is upon their pike poles. These are generally from eighteen to twenty-two feet in length, having a sharp pointed iron, with a socket weighing ten or twelve pounds affixed to the lower end ; the upper has a large knob, called a button, mounted upon it, so that the poleman may press upon it with his whole weight without endangering his person. This manner of impelling the boat forward is extremely laborious, and none but those who have been fJr some time accustomed to it, can manage these poles with any kind of advantage. Within the boat on each side is fixed a plank running fore and aft, with a number of cross elects nailed upon it, for the purpose of giving the polemen a sure footing in hard poling. The men, after setting their poles against a rock, bank or bottom of the river, de- i ) I \i dining their heads veiy low, place tlie upper cndor button against the back part of their right or left shoulders, (according to the side on which they may be poling,) then fallmg down on their hands and toes, creep the whole length of the gang-boaids, and send the boat forward with considerable speed. The first sight of four men on each side of a boat, creeping along on their hands and toes, apparently transfixed by a huge pole, is no small curiosity ; nor was it, until I had observed their perse- verance for two or three hundred yards, that I became satisfied they were not playing some pranks. From the general practice of this method, as likewise from my own trials and observation,^ I am convinced that they have fallen upon the most powerful way possible to exert their bodily strength for the purpose requked. The position, however, was so extremely awkward to me, that I doubt whether the description I have attempted will give you an adequate idea of the procedure. I have met with another kind of boat on this river, which is called a dorm, or dorem ; how it is spelt, I know not. The only difference I could observe in this from tlie former one is, that it is built sharp at both ends, and, generally, much larger and stouter. They have likewise flats,' similar to those you have seen on the Susque- hanna, but much lighter built, and longer. On all these they occasionally carry the sails before mentioned. r i ■■■^a... f* ■InM )per cndor ght or left 1 they may- hands and ng-boai'ds, ble speed. of a boat, :\pparently curiosity ; ;ir perse- is, that I ng some of this rials and ave fallen xert their Id. The kward to tn I have 5a of the I of boat dorem ; ifference r one is, enerally, ise flats, Susque- 2r. On J before V \ ^ I ■ I • I <\: .J - m ^ y w. .»l. , .^ . ,p^ip / of it vvi m\ i a 3 ■a ■i .\ The Mohawk is by no means dangerotis to as. cend, on account of the slowness of the boat's pro. gress; but, as it is full of rocks, stones and shal- lows, there is some risk in descending it of sta. vmg the boat; and, at this season, is so low as to r^quire^t to be dragged by hand over many pla. ces. The channel in some instances is not more than eight feet in width, which will barely permit a boat to pass by rubbing on both sides. This is sometimes caused by natural or accidental obstruc' tioas of rocks in. the channel ; but oftener by arti ficial means. This, which at first view would appear to be an inconvenience, is p,x)duced by two lines or ndges of stone, generally constructed on sandy, gravelly, or stony shallows, in such a manner as to form an acute angle were they to meet the extremities of which widen as they extend up the river ; whUst at the lower end there is just space enough left to admit the passage of a boat. The water being thus collected at the widest part of these ndges, and continually pent up wifhin narrower limits as it descends, causes a rise at the passage; so that where the depth was no more than ei^t inches before, a contrivance of this kmd will raise it to twelve; and, strange as it may appear, a boat drawing fifteen inches will pass through it with safety and eas.. The cause IS simply this; the boat, being some- ivhat below the passage, is brought forward with i d i !: considerable velocity, and the moment it dashes into tjie passage, its resistance to the current is such as to cause a swell of four or five inches more, which affords it an easy passage over the $hoal. The Moha'A^ may be considered as being generally about one hundred yards in width ; its banks are extremely fertile, and the very appear- ance of the b^ns would satisfy a traveller that he v/as passing through a rich and well cultivated country. The inhabitants are mostly of German descent, and still, in a great measure, retain their national prejudices, and consider all who do not speak their own language either as Yan- kees or Iris^ers. The Germans of Pennsylvania generally speak a most corrupt dialect of the Ger- man language ; yet, when compared with that in use on the Mohawk, it may justly be styled attic ** elegance." The Saxons are allowed to speak the purest of any of the Germans, and when I have been complimented as speaking German like a Saxon, which has frequendy been the case, I have felt not a little flattered ; judge, then, how I have been mortified to be told by ajair Mohawk, that " I was an outlandish man, or an Irisher, and *'did not understand their language, although I ♦' had made out to learn a few words." The German and Herkimer Flats are very fine tracts of bottom land, and in the highest state of it dashes current is ive inches ; over the as being vidth; its y appear- er that he cuhivated f German re, retain all who r as Yan- msylvania ftheGer- th that in led attic to speak d when I German the case, sp, how I Mohawk, isher^ and Ithough I very fine it state of cultivation ; and, from the great depth of the soil as well as from logs and trees being frequentlv found m diggmg for wells, they wen., in all pro- babihty at some remote period, the bottoms of lakes. Canojoharie and Little Falls are the only two towns that lie immediatelv upon the river throughout the whole distance from Schenectady o Utica. The former is a scattered village on the left bank, about forty-five miles from Schenectady • the latter about thirteen miles farther up, situated on the right bank, in a rocky and barren country, of httle value except for milLseats. It consists at present of thirty houses, and must, in time be come a very considerable manufacturing place from the ease and facility with which mills may be erected. ^ About a quarter of a mile before arriving at the Falls are two places called the Devil's Hole and Devil s Oven ; and, from the description I had re ceived, I expected to find a cavern large enough, at lea^t, to contain a church-when, lo! on examina- tion, they appeared to be only small accidental ex cavations in the side of a rocky mountain, about the size^^f a common oven, with a very large mouth, trom.the great number of small excavations that are continually forming, it is evident that they have been produced in consequence of a pebble cliHr'^r'"'? ^^^^dentally lodged in a small cavity 6f the rocks, where, the force of the ^^ter VOL. I. ^1 \ ». -*«\ 10 i I' I ,-i giving it a rotatory motion, the cavity has grown with everj' overflowing of the river, which, when high, rushes directly into these holes. On the approach to the Falls the scenery of the country experiences a sudden and picturesque change ; the river becomes contracted to about one- third its usiijj breadth ; on each side the mountains rise to a towering height, the sides of which, although inaccessible, are covered with lofty trees, which fasten their roots in the fissures and crevices of the rocks, and firmly maintain their station in spite of storms and tempests ; while, as vou advance, the river seems lost in a wilderness of rocks and precipices. In ascending these Falls you pass through eight locks into the canal, where each ton of merchandise pays a toll of two dollars and twenty-five cents, besides a toll of from one dollar and fifty cents to two dollars and sixty-two and a half cents on each boat. This expense is paid by the captain of the boat. It is, however, certainly too high, and is generally complained of ; not that the proprietors receive too great profits from these works, which, on the contrary, are at present rather a sinking fund, and must continue so until the number of boats employed on this river is increased in a tenfold degree. This ought to be an object of the first importance with the comptiny, for the heavy charges paid by the few that navigate these waters, tend to discourage others from building boats. The farmers still li continue to transport their produce by land in pre- ference to water, as each has his team, which will carry one hundred bushels. They generally go to town once or twice a year, to dispose of their crops, sec their friends, and look for great bargains at auctions ; and, when ready to return, can take back a load as cheap as the boatman who passes the locks. Besides, they have not only saved in this respect, but also a charge of one or two shillmgs a bushel on all they bring ; for it is generally known that a farmer of this description, by takinr J^is provisions with him, will not spefld more than one or two dollars during tlie trip. The great object of the company, therefore, should be to encourage the use of boats, and endeavour to increase theii- number; and, by that means, divert the land carriage to the river. This nfiver can be effected while die present mode is persisted in ; and, were they to lower the toll fifty per cent. I should still say it was too high. In my opinion, they seem rather to have calculated upon high tolls and frw boats ; experience, however, will soon teach them to consider the subject in a different light. The canal, which is four or five miles long, is a beautiful piece of water, passing through the flats of the town of Herkimer. It is a valuable acquisition to those through whose lands it flows ; and, when once planted with handsome trees, will be one of the pleasantest situations in this V, IS country. On the left it is joined by Oriskany Creek, a small stream which passes through a large and extensive flat of the same name, but mostly unimproved. It was at this spot the fa- mous battle was fought by General Herkimer with the Indians, in which he lost his life. The after- noon of my arrival at Utica, we encountered a vio- lent thunder squall, which I should not have no- ticed to you had not a large tree, immediately op- posite to us, been struck with lightning and fallen inlo the river; so that although drowning is scarcely possible on the Mohawk, yet there is some risk of being dashed to pieces by the falling of trees which overhang its banks. Utica, on the site of Fort Schuyler, is a flou- rishing vilUge, handsomely situated on the left bank of the Mohawk; it contains, at present, about one hundred and sixty houses, the greatest part of which are painted white, and give it a neat and lively appearance. Foreign goods are nearly as cheap here as in New- York, which, I presume, is owing to the merchants' underselling each other ; for this, like all other country towns is overstocked with shop-keepers. Most of the goods intended for the salt-works are loaded here in waggons, and sent on over land, a distance (rf fifty miles. The carriage over this portage is fifty cents a hundred weight. Whitestown is also a thriving little village, four Tniles above Utica ; but, as it stands about half a IS mile back from the shore, nothing of it is seen in the passage up the riv£r. Deerfield lies on the right bank of the Mohawk immediately opposite to Utica, and is connected with it by a good wooden bridge. It is but an inconsiderable vi|. lage, of eight or ten houses, chiefly inhabited by very poor people ; nor is it likely ever to rise to any degree of respectability, as the ground on which it is situated is subject to be overflowed whenever there is any considerable rise of the river. The Mohawk affbrds the fewest fish of any stream I have ever yet met with. Angling, you know, is my favourite sport ; and, as I had promised myself much gratifliftion from this amusement, I spared nothing that could render my fishing Jp, paratus complete ; judge then of my patience and disappointment, when, after nine day's toiling, day and night, I at last caught a poor cat fish not larger than a herring!! I hope, however, in a few days, to be amply compensated for my disappoint- ment here, as we shall then be at the head of the Mohawk, and from thence descend with the waters flowing into Lake Ontario, which our captain in- forms me abounds with salmon and other deli- cious fish ; yet, even here, I perceive, another diffi- culty presents itself, which is, that nature has been so bountiful to the salmon of this country, in fur- nishing them with quantities of delicious food, as to make them reject the very best tid-bit vou i 1 14 can affix to your hcok ; so that, unless you arc expert enough to strike them with a spear, as is the custom, you are likely to go without. I really must confess that my feelings seem rather to revolt at the barbarous and unnatural idea of miu^dering fish with a large piece of iron^ weighing tlwee or four pounds, while, at the same time, a little bit of crooked steel, covered with a fly or worm, and suspended to a line, would afford me, for hours, what I should call rational amusement. Such is the force of habit and prejudice ! The manly attitude oi the Indian, standing erect in his canoe as he skims the transparent surface of the lake, grasping his iron spear with his right hand, warns the quick-eyed salmon of his ho^e approach — while we, more humane and refined, conceal ourselves under the thick foliage of the shady banks, and, in the guise of friendship, beguile the unwary tribe to the deceitful hook ! ! i } Yours, C. S. iU IS LETTER II. Lake Ontario, Oswego, July 24, 1807. Dear Friend, MY last, I think, left me moralizing in conse- quence of my disappointments in fishing on the Mohawk : I shall not say another word upon that subject, for, to be candid, the first " glomus nibble'' 1 afterward had, banished all unpleasant ideas re- "pecting the past. At Utica I made some little improvements in our boat, which consisted of an a^vning sufficiently large to secure us pretty comfortably from the rain and sun. The passage from Utica to this place, a distance of one hundred and fourteen miles, occupied nine days, two of which, however, were spent at Three River Point in waiting for me, as I had resolved not to miss the opportunity of visiting the famous salt-works of Onondago. The freight to this place is at the rate of one dollar and twenty-five cents per hundred. The passage money, if any is charged, is about two dollars for a hundred miles, finding your own pro- visions; but, if you furnish a good table, no pas- 16 sage money will be received; and these open- hearted fellows always seem much pleased to have gentlemen for passengers. Rome, which lies in latitude 43. 12. N. knd 75, 27. W. is situated near the head of the Mo- hawk, sixteen miles above Utica. The entrance into this village is through a handsome canal about a mile in length. It is here that the Mo- hawk is made to contribute a part of its stream toward filling Wood Creek, which, of itself, is so low in dry seasons as to be totally insufficient to float a boat without the aid of the Mohawk. Rome, fom.orly known as Fort Stanwix, is de- lightfully situated in an elevated and level country, commanding an extensive view for about ten miles around. I'his village consists at present of about eighty houses ; but it seems quite destitute of every kind of trade, and rather upon the decline. The only spirit which I perceived stirring among tiie^ was that of money digging ; and the old fort betrayed evident signs of the prevalence of this mania, as it had literally been turned inside out for the purpose of discovering concealtd treasure. In proceeding from the Mohawk through the canal into Wood Creek, and descending the same, you pass through another range of locks, five in number. The toll here is still higher than the first, being three dollars per ton for goods, and from one dollar and fifty cents to three dollars and 1 i i T 17 ^ fifty cents extra upon each boat. This charge is usually paid by the boatman who takes the freight • but I am informed that it is necessary to come to an understanding on this point at the time of making the contract, as this expense is sometimes thrown upon the shipper. Wood Creek is a narrow, crooked and sluggish stream, about twenty.four miles in length, from its head at Rome to its junction with the Onondaga River, and about twelve yards wide after passing through the locks. It winds through a low swampy tract of country from eight to ten miles in length, and four or five in breadth. Although this stream is celebrated for the size, activity and numbers of its moschetoes, as well as the stag, nancy of its waters, yet I neither experienced the annoyance of the one, nor the inconvenience of the other, although I passed it in the month of July when both these evils are said to be intolerable' Just after passing the storehouse, which is situa- ted below the last lock, a considerably rapid stream called Canada Creek, unites with Wood Creek from the right. This is nearly as large as the former, but not navigable. Immediately opposite their junction are the remains of Fort Rickey, a fortress of some consequence during the old In dian wars ; but at present employed to a better purpose, being covered with a good orchard. About a mile farther we passed the site of another VOL. I. ' N ^ It old fort called Fort Bull; this is ott the right bank of the creek. The navigation of Wood Creek is not attended with any hazard of drowning, oreven of staving a boat to pieces ; but the sudden turns of the stream overhung with the trunks and branches of trees, are not without their dangers, as I ex- perienced. The boat being under considerable way, at a sudden bend of the river, we unexpect- edly discovered a tree, which had been overturned by some late storm, stretched across the stream, and supported by its branches in such a manner as not to touch the water. Our captain imme- diately perceiving that it would be impossible to stop the boat in so short a distance, directed every one to take care of himself, and ran the boat under a part of the tree of sufficient height to ad- mit it ; but, as it was much lumbered up a- mid- ships, several of the articles were swept overboard. Amongst these were my travelling trunk and portable desk, containing my money, papers and apparel. The desk floated along side, but the trunk, being very heavy, sunk to the level of the water and stopped against some of the branches. As it required some time, however, to stop the boat and go up the stream, the trunk, on being taken up, was full of water, to the no little injury of my papers and clothing. The most laughable circumstance attending this accident was, that on missing my companion, and looking round for him, I discovered him in the top of the tree whicli 10 we had passed uhder, whither he had jumped to avoid being crushed, as he had not time to get aft where the boat was less lumbered There is great plenty and a variety of fine fish m this stream ; and, as we are now provided with the necessary cooking apparatus, I find, for the first time, my favourite amusement likely to be attended with profit. We have already seen se- veral salmon Jumping, but have not been able to catch any, except with a silver hook; nor should we, probably, have so soon been successful in this way had we not foitunately fallen in with a party of Oneida Indians, who were returning from fish- ing, and had two canoes loaded Avith fine salmon. Several of them weighed thirty pounds each. We purchased two of the largest for one dollar and tv enty-five cents. We stopped the same evening at a settlement a little distance above the mouth of Wood Creek, in order to obtain a fresh supply of milk for our c'of< fee and chocolate. The sun had just set as we were ascending the bank, when we heard the ciy of a hog in distress, and, upon approaching the house, fotlnd it was occasioned by a bear, who had come upon much the same errand with our- selves, namely, to get something to eat; but, as he found no one with whom to make a bargain, he very deliberately seized a small hog of about three hundred pounds weight, and marched off - 1« 1 20 m n into the woods. By the time we came to the house we discovered an old woman, with a frying, pan in one hand, and a ladle in the other, running after the robber; but she soon returned, and informed us tliat "this was the second time " the darnation devil had visited them within a " week." Wood Creek is joined on the right by Fish Creek, which, with more propriety, might be de- nominated a river, as it is at least five times as large as Wood Creek, but navigable for ten miles only. This stream is much resorted to by the Oneida Indians, on account of the great quantities of salmon and other fish which it affords; as, likewise, from its being favoured with numerous springs of excellent water, which, in this country, is considered as a very great luxury. About a mile and u half below the mouth of Fish Creek, the collected waters of these two streams are discharged into the Oneida Lake, where are still to be seen the remains of Fort Royal, formerly a post of considerable importance in checking the roving parties of Indians on this part of the frontier. Oneida Lake is a most charming and beputiful sheet of water, about thirty miles in length, and five in breadth, and, I believe, affords the best and greatest variety of fish of any water in the western part of this state. I have seen salmon, pike and cat fish taken in this lake from five to 31 ii. 21 ' thirty.five pounds weight, and chub, Oswego bass and white bass from two to five pounds ; besides a great variety of smaUer and less esteemed fish. Eels are found here in the greatest abundance, and are the finest and largest that ever I saw. They have an invention for taking them similar to our eel-pots, but made very large, and requiring no bait. These are always set in a strong current either at the inlet or outlet of a lake, or on some swift part of the stream upon the rivers. Two ridges of stones are piled up in the manner before described on the Mohawk river, at the lower end of which the pot or basket is set. I was present when one of the baskets, which had been set over night, was taken up ; it filled two barrels, and the greater part of the eels weighed from two to three pounds each. I have been always prejudiced against eating eels on account of a rancid taste which I perceived in them; but, being prevailed upon to taste of these, I must declare that I never before tasted any fish so delicious, without except- ing even the salmon. A family who live at the outlet of this lake, depend almost entirely upon this eel- fishery for their support ; they salt down about forty barrels a year, and find a ready sale for them at ten dollars a barrel. The Oneida Indians, from whom this lake de- rives its name, are generally settled in this neigh- bourhood. We had, occasionally, met with one or two families of them previously to our arrival «■ 22 at the l:*k€, buthere irfcftiund a collection of about forty, who were amusing theniselves with shooting arrows, pitcliing quoits, and throwing large stones. W© made a stop here for the night, and found therti all remarkably civil and well disposed. There is a tolerably good tavern kept at this place by a Mrs. J—-., and her sister, a young wo- man, who; you may be assured, display no ordi- nary degree of courage in dealing out whiskey to thirty or forty Indians, who generally rendezvous at this place, especially as there is no other white settler within sight or call, should any accident render immediate assistance necessary. I made a small excursion along the border of this lake, and, although the shore was low, yet I found a firm, dry, white sandy beach to walk upon; some other parts of it, however, I was informed, were low and swampy. I was much amused in the evening by a singular illumination upon the lake, which I was at first wholly unable to account for. The water at this part of the lake, it seems, is very shallow for nearly half a mile from the shore, and being perfectly transparent, and the bottom a white sand, the smallest object may be readily distinguished. The Indians have a meihod of taking salmon and other fish by rfieans of an iron frame fixed in the bow of the canoe, projecting forward three or four feet, and ( Ifvated about five ; upon this they kin- dle a bright fire of pine knots, and while one per- son sits in the stern with a paddle to impel the w 23 boat forward, another stands in the bow with a sharp spear ready to strike the fish who play about the light. Ten or twelve of these canoes moving about irregulaily on the lake, on a fine calm evening, with the reflection of their lights, like so many lines of fire, extending from each object to a centre on which you stand, afford a most plea- smg prospect, and far exceed, in my opinion, the most brilliant display of artificial fireworks. In crossing this lake we were fortunate enough to be favoured with a fair wind, and five hours' saihng brought us to the outlet, or head of Onon, daga River. On our passage we had a tolerably fair view of Rotterdam, situated on the right bank of the lake, about six miles above the oudet The country, generally, around the lake, and particu- larly in the neighbourhood of Rotterdam, has the character of being unheahhy, although the situa- tion of the town appeared to me to be sufficiently elevated. Should the vicinity of these low and swampy grounds be the only cause of this un healthyness, I am of opinion that a few hundred dollars expended, in opening the channel and re. movmg the bar at the head of the outlet, would lower the lake so far as to drain off the stagnant waters, and thus remove the cause. I had an op portunity of examining the whole length of the bar by wading across it, and found it composed of loose stones and gravel, with no more than eighteen mches of water. Unless, therefore, there should ' (. 24 prove to be a bed of rocks to impede the under- taking, I am inclined to believe that twenty men, with the necessary implements, might easily ac- complish it in the course of a month. As the wmd would not permit us to stop at Rotterdam, I can only speak of it from informa- tion. It is said to contain about thirty houses, but mostly deserted, on account of what they call the lake fever, which, I am told, makes its appear- ance annually. There is an excellent set of mills built upon a stream called Bruce's Creek, which passes just below the town; and, although the country is extremely fertile, yet, for want of set- tlers to raise grain, they have but little employment. About four, miles from the outlet w^e passed two islands on our left, sufficiently high for cuhivation, and containing about one hundred acres, but des- titute of inhabitants. We also passed a little spot called One Tree Island, which serves the naviga- tors as a land-mark, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a ship under sail. There are like- wise two small sandy islands, generally covered with gulls ; the boatmen sometimes stop here to look for eggs, which, in the season, are found in con- siderable plenty. In passing these islands we ran aground on the top of what appeared to me to be a sunken island, with a very small flat surface ; it was an entire rock, not more than seven paces across ; and, on every side, we found more than 1 as" thirty feet water, that being the length of the coM I sounded with. It 19 astonishing what myriads of small butter. fl.es covered the whole surface of this lake, which, .ndeed rather resembled the large fields of a.! orctard, just spread with the fall of the blossoms. I tad remarked that, at the head of the lake, one of the boatmen was directed to fill a keg with wa- ^r before we started. I inquired for what r^. son, as the Uke was ftesh, and there was no dan. ttat, at th.s season, « the late wm in blmom, and not fit to be drank." This I found almost literally true. The cause is as follows :— The lake is in a great measure, border •'. with swamps and low grounds, which produce innumerable swanns of small butterflies, especially of the white mod,. These msects cannot fly any great distance without restuig, and a very light breeze off- shore will pre vent dieu- regaining the land when once they have teken wmg; i„ consequence of which, they soon faU with outspread wings, and cover the lake so completely as fully to justify the expression of 2 .T^K r "'""'"'■" ^'*°"g'' the water of the lake, before taken up in a glass, appears to be perfectly cearand transparent, yet, upon examina- tvhich the boatmen call/«,,r and ague ,ecds.- but VOX.. I. » ' 26 K#!i in reality, are the eggs of certain insects. This inconvenience, however, continues only for sibout six weeks, when the waters again become pure and wholesome. In ckacending the Onondaga River from the outlet, the land is low on both sides for about five miles; the right shore then begins gra- dually to rise and improve in appearance, while the left still continues low for a considerable distance further. This is a pleasant, and, in some pkices, a rapid stream, increasing to the breadth of one huixlredand twenty -five yards; its length, according to its meanders from the Oneida Lake, to its junction with the Seneca and Oswego Rivers at Three River Point, is twenty miles. The navigation of this river is somewhat dan- gerous, on account of several rocky shoab, and the rapidity of its current ; it, therefore, requires a particular knowledge of these places, in order to take a boat down in safety. Three River Point is most eligibly situated on Ae left bank, at the confluence of tlie Onondaga, Seneca and Oswego Rivers. Although no town is laid out, as this place at present contains but a single house, yet, I do not hesitate to say, the time will shortly arrive when it will be the site of one of the most respectable inland towns in this ^4rt of the state. This tract lies within the militar^ township of Cicero ; it belongs to the town, 27 and is at present under lease for six years. The state would have done well to have reserved this six hundred acre lot, and had it laid out for a town on a similar plan to that of Oswego, as it must always command a great share of trade, for all the goods bound to or from Oswego must pass by Three River Point, either in ascending or descend- ing, exclusive of the whole trade of the Genessee Country by the Seneca River, as well as the salt trade to the upper country, which must also pass this Point on its way to the Mohawk. It has, likewise, nothing to apprehend from any rivalship from settlements on either of the two opposite points, as neither of these possess a sufficient ele- vation, being subject to be inundated by every rise of the river. Upon our arrival at the Point, we found a boat with thirty.four persons on board, just embarking on a voyage across the lakes to Sandusky ; where we heard the Indians were beginning tj be troublesome. We should have gone on in com- pany with them, but, finding myself within four- teen or sixteen miles of the famous salt-works of Onondaga, I resolved to detain the boui for a couple of days, until I could have an opportunity of visiting this natural curiosity of our country. I accordingly made an offer to our captain, who I have found very kind and obliging, to pay him six dollars per day for all the time he sliould lose ; to m 28 this he not only assented, but likewise offered to accompany me. After some little trouble I enga- ged a couple of men with a canoe, and we set out the same evening, and arrived at the salt-works about midnight, A description of which shall be the subject of my next. Yoiu-s, C. S. 29 LETtER HI. Lake Ontario, Oswego, July 26, 1807. Dear Friend, . THE town of Salina, the site of these celebrated Mlt-works, ,s distant from Three River Point about sixteen miles, by land ; by water, which is ^X '"p'" 'I " "" ""^' ■""-• From Ihree River Pomt the course is up the Seneca River fourteen miles, where, turning ,o the left It passes through a low swampy ci-eek, the outte of Salt Lake, being about three-quarters of a mile m length. Salt Lake is a very small sheet of wa ter, b ing no more than six miles in length and about one and a half in breadth. The wat^ 1, deep and transparent, and considered as very good for drinking, it is also well stocked with ^^n and a variety of other fine fish. I must not T2 enteitaimngyouwith a curious little story i^spert .ng this lake, which I find generally circuLeTa^d almostasgenerallycredited. Our boatmen, amo'g o*ers asserted and believed that the bottom or his lake IS a solid bed of salt. " They had h"ard •hough they could not find bottom yet W I.. i 30 It •' dra\\'n up a bottle full of the water so strongly " impregnated >vith salt as to float an egg or po- " tato." You may be sure I did not long hesi- tate about trying the experiment, and, therefore, engaged them to take me out the next day, when I should be prepared to put it in execution. Ac- cordingly, having provided a line and bottle, the one for sounding, and the other for drawing up a sample of the salt water, we proceeded to every part of the lake which they pointed out as being the deepest, but found nothing, except a rocky, sandy, or muddy bottom, with from thirty to fifty feet of water. Despairing at length of finding any deeper part by their directions, I requested them to row me to a place which I pointed out to them, where I sounded for the last time, and found a rocky bottom with sixtj^-four feet of water. Ha- ving prepared my bottle in such a manner that I could withdraw tlie cork when it arrived at the bottom, I drew it up, and, as I expected, found the water a little cooler, but not otherwise difterent from that on the surfiice. Our two boatmen did not seem inclined to give up the point yet, and one of them reasoned in this way — " We must all be convinced that where there " is salt water there must be salt to make it so ; " and, as we know that the salt springs rise in the " marsh on the border of the lake, there must be " a body of salt underneath ; and, if that is the case, *' is diere any thing unreasonable in supposing ii SI « that the lake was, originally, a great salt spring, " issuing out of a solid bed of mineral salt ?" I then asked him, that granting this to be the case, how it happened that the water of this great salt spring was so perfectly fresh ? He was puz- zled for some time, but at last replied, " the great " number of fresh brooks and rivulets which dis- " charge themselves into this lake, contribute so *^' much larger a supply towards filling it, that the " salt water is lost in the immensity of the fresh." I was much pleased with the ingenuity of this man's reasoning, and dare say you will likewise give him full credit when you are further informed that he could neither read nor write. But to proceed with my narrative : After having entered the lake, and coasted for four miles along the left shore, we arrived at Liverpool, or, as it is sometimes called, New Ireland, a smaU town wholly occupied in making salt, containing about twenty wretched hovels. Of its salt trade I shall speak hereafter. 1 lom Liverpool it is two miles across the lake, to a small creek of about one-quar- ter of a mile in length, which leads to the salt- works of Onondaga. The town of Salina is situated on a bank fifty feet above the creek and marsh in front, and contams about fifty houses, some of which make a^ respectable appearance. The country imme- diately around the town appears to be a stifi" barren clay ; and wood, from the vast consumption of the ~3 ! / '',' f i\ '■♦%-w_ 32 furnaces, has already become scarce. The whole trade of this village arises from the manufacture of salt ; nor do I believe there is a single individual in the town who is not concerned in the trade. The salt springs are found on the margin of an extensive marsh, not unlike, in appearance, to the salt marshes of Hoboken. The furnaces are generally.placed a little way up the bank, and the works are supplied by hand and horse pumps. At present they have about three hundred ketdes at this place, and at Liverpool one hundred and for- ty.four ; all these are kept in constant operation,, both day and night, and produce about two thou- sand four hundred bushels per day. From the inexhaustible nature of these springs, and the in- creasing population and consequent demand for salt, there can be no doubt but that Salina will be- come the largest inland town in the state. To the eye the Onondaga salt appears equal to that from Turks Island; yet, although it is as dear and white as the latter, it is found to be from four to five pounds lighter in the bushel. No other salt, however, is used in this country, and a great part of die states of Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, and Michigan Territory-, as, likewise, the whole of Upper, and a considerable part of Lower Canada, are wholly supplied from these works. I examined the several springs used in manu- facturing this necessary article of life ; and, though 33 there was a considerable variation in their degrees of strength, yet I found them all nearly three times as strong as sea water. I likewise found a most excellent spring of fresh water in the same place and within two rods of a very strong salt spring.' 1 noticed, however, that this issued from the sur- face of a stratum of clay, which lay about six inches higher than those that were salt. I have just remarked that there is a considerable difference in the relative strength of the waters of these springs ; and I have been informed by the manu- facturers, that some will require but ninety, while others take one hundred and twenty gallons of water to produce one bushel of salt. You will also readily perceive that the quality of the water must be very materially affected by every change of the weather, and, consequently, stronger in a dry than m a wet season. Although, in the former part of this letter I amused you with the conclusion drawn by one 'of my canoe men, « that the bottom of the lake was " a bed of salt,'Vyet, I must confess, I perceive no readier way to solve the difficuhv respecting the origm of these springs than by supposing them to pass through a bed of that mineral. Although I do not recollect a single authenticated fact of mi neral salt being found in this country, yet we know that Poland and Germany have mines of it in abundance, one of which, I recollect, was said tc^ VOL. I. J. -.,._. ^ liii} 34 " contain a whole village within its interior, and " to be inhabited by fifteen hundred men, women " and children !" But you need not believe this unless you please. Altliough Salina, at present, does not employ more than one-fifth part of that number, yet I will venture to predict that, in the short period of thirty years, her population above ground will at least equal, if not surpass it. It is indeed matter of astonishment, if we consider that scarce a dozen years have elapsed since this whole country was inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians, of whom, excepting the Oneidas, scarce an individual is to be seen. TTie price of salt at the works is incre- dibly low,, being no more than from twenty. five to thirty. one cents a bushel of fifty-six pounds, or two dollars and twenty-five cents a barrel containing five bushels, including the price of the barrel and inspection fees. I shall now return to Three River Point, and continue, my narrative down to the city of Os- wego. The Onondaga and Seneca Rivers uniting at this spot, lose their respective names, and assume that of Oswego, It is from this circum- stance that this spot has been named the Three River Point. The navigation of this river is ex. tremely dangerous, on account of the rapidity of the current, and the obstructions formed by nu- merous rocks, which lie hid in the channel. About five miles below the point our boat very narrowly % All ■~*m — ■ — *^ 3ff itcnor, and len, women believe this not employ , yet I will Dd of thirty ill at least matter of ce a dozen Quntry was , of whom, adual is to cs is incre- mty-five to ids, or two containing barrel and Point, and \ty of Os- ers uniting ames, and is circum- the Three iver is ex- rapidity of ed by nu- lel. About ^ narrowly escaped being stove to pieces, by being forced upon what is called the Pilot Rock. The rapidity of the current here was so great, that the united strength and exertions of our whole boat's crew, nine in number, including ourselves, could not have prevented the boat from being wrecked, as we had become exhausted by fatigue, had we not fortu- nately met with assistance from five boats* crews, who were coming up the stream empty. These boats being very narrow, an expert pilot will con- duct them with great judgment among the rocks ; but, from their great length, (about sixty feet,) should the boat happen to strike any thing, or touch a rock on the bottom, the rapidity of the current sweeps the stem round with so much vio- lence, that, should it come in contact with some projecting rock, as is not unfrequently the case, the boat is instantly dashed to pieces. The way of managing a boat on these waters, when she grounds forward, is to keep her jn her position, and prevent her from springing with the current. For that purpose a couple of hands jump over the bows, and with hand-spikes set the boat back against the stream, until she regains tlie regular channel ; but when once she swings in a very strong current, it is impossible for an ordinary boat's crew to check her, in which case, if she has room, and a clear bottom, no evil can result ; but if, on the contrary, she strikes a rock, ship- ■wreck becomes inevitable. Six miles below the V»t 36 point you arrive at the fiUls of Onondaga, which, more properly, should be called the falls of Os- wego, as they are upon that river. This, however, I am told is in contradistinction to a very strong rapid, four or five miles below this, which is called the Oswego Falls. I had always been led to be- lieve that what were called the Falls of Onondaga were nothing more than a mere rapid, tlierefore I was not a little surprised to find a perpendicu- lar fall of the whole river for about ten feet, ex- cepting a narrow channel of about twenty feet wide, wom by the constant friction of the water. The breadth of the river at this place is increased to one hundred and sixty yards. We were delayed some time at the falls, as the whole cargo was obli- ged to be unloaded, and transported a mile over land to the lower landing place. The carriage at this portage is twelve and a half cents for a barrel of salt, and one dollar a ton for any kind of mer- chandise. The freight of salt from Salina down to the port of Oswego is fixed at eightj'-seven and a half cents a barrel, including the portage over land. After the boat Avas unloaded, the captain determined to descend the foils in his empty boat rather than wait for the return of the teams to take it round over land. He urgtd me very strongly to/nake the descent with him, but as I should not then have had an opportunity of seeing the boat descend, nor of making those observations that I could upon the banks, I declined, and recommended my If V V^' -r-V^'- 37 companion for his chief male, but he likewise de- chned the honour, preferring a walk of twenty mi- m..es hy land, ,o a flight of two or three by water The eaptam, and some of his men, d>en descended .hemselves, and, at the first pitch, nearly one-half of he boa. disappeared ; all the men IHl do,™, while the countenance and conduct of the captain be- . tajed evident stgns of the frolic not being nuite » »g.^eable as he had expected , and, when we ' ^.ved at the ,a.,ding place, we found the boa half full of water. Havmg repaired .he boat, which had receded some inju-y in descending the falls our cargo was soon reloaded, and we continued our voyage. For a distance of five miles below the falls there ,s a very strong n,pid, the descent of whtch ,s probably not less than six or seven feet m each mile; this continues much the same unttl yot, amve within one mile of the town, when you suddenly perceive a .^pid increase of motion, occasioned by what are ciJIed the falls of Oswego The town and its Mpping are now in sight: dii current hu..!es forward almost with the mpiditv of an arrow ; and, although the water is perfeetiv cleat- and transparent, tlte bed of the river a smooth solid rock, and the water so shoal that you fre quently feel the boat rub against the bottom, yet you are wafted along with such extreme swifmess tliat you can scarcely get a glimpse of the bottom as you ghde oyer it; and, before you can imagine «, find yourself unexpectedly among the vessels n ;'V 1^ '^■2 38 at Oswego. I made .everal inquiries concerninjjj the height of thesr falls or rapids, but vnmt of the answers I obtained appeared sr cAtravj)gunt as scarcely to deserve mentioning. Were 1 to hazard a conjecture, from the few obycrvations I was cna- bled to make, I should not estimate them at more than twelve feet for this last mile and a half. The Western Inland Navigation Company are bound, by their act of incorporation, to erect locks at all the falls and obstructions on this route ; but, in consequence of having expended their funds, they are unable to proceed with their improve- ments. The state has already made a purchase of this stock to a large amount, m order to give aid to the coippany ; but it appears to be the general opinion, that unless it should take the wh' c into its hands, or give the proprietors some further and more effectual assistance, the establishment must inevitably fail, or, at least, every thing will be suf- fered to remain in its present unfinished and ob- structed state. The town of Oswego, which is twelve miles dis- tant from Three River Point, and three hundred and eighty-one, by water, from New- York, is situa- ted on the left bank of the river of that name at the place where it discharges itself into Lake Ontario, and consists of about thirty dwelling- houses and stores. This town was regularly laid out by the state, which reserved a part of the mili- tary township of Hannibal for this purpose ; but, x-^'-'**^. 3 jfi>M .^..fU ^vi*. ^ 39 at present, it makes a very contemptible appear- ance from the irregular and confused manner m which the inhabitants are permitted to build their houses and store.. Most of these are placed as suits the convenience or whim of the own. in the streets or elsewhere, without any regard to the origmai plan. As the town is quite'small, and there IS no want of room, the inhabitant, do not complain of this encroachment at pn sent ; hut it certainly would be not only for tlieir interest, but would hkewise add much to the beauty of the place, were they to observe as much taste anc re- gTilarity in their buildings as possible. This would obtain a favourable notice from travellers, and pro- bably be the means of gairhig setti ts ; whereas the present appearance of the houses and accom- modaiions are really despicable. This town has likewise been made a port of entry, and, when we arrived, we found here two American and two British schooners, with a Rritisii brig, all engaged in transporting salt. Oswego has no produce or manufacture of its own, but is wholly dependent on the salt trade for its support. Ihe country around this place, v^ith veiy few ex- ceptions, remains still in i state of nati re. The people of the town are almost entirely indebteri for their provisions to a supply from other places ex- ceptmg in the article of fish, of which they have plenty at their doors. I do not think that Oswego will soon become of that importance which has 40 . f ii generally been supposed, as its sole dependence at present is upon the storing and shipping of salt, from thut branch of trade which crosses Lakes Ontario and Erie ; and upon the small returns of furs, which are growing less every year. Heavy articles, such as potash, pork, beef, flour, &c. are never sent up the Oswego River, on account of the difficulty of ascending with a loaded boat against the violence of the current. A market for those articles must, therefore, be sought for down the St. Lawrence, until the navigation of the Os- wego' is rendered more practicable. Fort Oswego is situated on the right bank of the river, directly opposite the tOAvn, and is a very commanding situation. You will recollect this was one of the several posts within our limits which was retained by the British contrary to the treaty The site is high and commanding, and one of the most delightful spots for a town in the western country. The banks, indeed, are too high to admit of an easy ascent for teams and carriages ; but this might be remedied by gradually winding along the hill. This eminence presents a very fine prospect of the whole country around, while immediately beneath extends the smooth surface of the lake, which, to the eye, appears boundless as the ocean. I was so 'much pleased w Ith this situation, and the prospect it afforded, which was heightened by the appearance of two vessels at a I' 'if 41 distance on the Lake, that I could not but antici- pate the time, when Oswego will become the scene of all the noise and bustle that characterize alarjje shipping port ; and this delightful spot the favoured retreat oi case and elegance. The British were fully impressed with the ad- vantageous situation of this fort, and accordingly spared neither labour nor expense in keeping u in complete order. Since the surrender of it, how. ever, to our government, it has been suffered to go to rum. I eannot say that I admire that policy which, from a mistaken economy, has suffered such large and expensive works to become useless to the nation at so early a period. Not that I think there is any danger of our country ever fall- mg into the hands of Great Britain, yet, in case ot a rupture between the two nations, of which there is a reasonable probability at the present moment, how easy would it be for a small force to take possession of the fort, and, in one night, by being properly provided, put it in a tenable state, before imy sufficient number of men could be brought to dislodge them ? From the facility of landing, and bringing everything with them, ( ven to a palisade, an enemy might, in ten days' time render the wo k so strong as to resist almost any attack that could be made upon them ; and, as to a supply of provisions, it requires but six or seven hours' rowing to pass into Canada, where the yare as VOL. I. n. I ) v\ iri 42 abundant as m our own state. Although, at the close )f the war, or perhaps soo»ier, they would abandon the fort, yet the evils resulting from an entire stop- page of that branch of our salt trade, would be an incalculable evil to the intericMr country, the greater part of whose inhabitants are supplied with salt through this channel. This would prove so great a misfortune that scarcely any expense ought to be spared in guarding against it. A company of soldiers would not only be sufficient to protect these works, but likewise to keep them in repair ; besides, it ought to be remembered, that the country for thirty miles around Oswego, is perhaps the least settled of any of the western part of this state, so that no considerable force could be immediately collected in the neighbourhood. The dread of another Indian war at present occupies the minds of tlie inhabitants, which, I am informed, has aii- sen from some threats made use of on the oppo- site side of the lake, namely, that " they would let " the Indians loose ;" and, from the account they give of the numbers and enterprizing spirit of these savages, they have some just cause for alarm, especially when they consider that one night may bring them over from the opposite shore. The mouth of Oswego River is in latitude 43. 28. N. and 76. 31. W. Immediately opposite to the fort, at present in- eluded in the town plat, are the remains of an old French fortification ; and about half a mile distant , at the close uld abandon entire atop- vouki be an , the greater d with salt ove so great ought to be company of t to protect 1 in repair ; the country perhaps the )f this state, mmediately lie dread of s the minds led, has aii- n the oppo- ?y would let ccount they (irit of these for alarm, night may horc. The 43. 28. N. 43 iiom the town, are likewise to be seen the ruins of some other ancient fortifications, the founders of which are long since lost to the memory of the natives. I am not sufficiently acquainted with the art of fortification to judge of the utility of works situated as these are, yet I could observe that they appeared to be calculated i ather for defence against the land side than that of the lake. I am this moment summoned on board— Have, therefore, barely time to inform you that I have en- gaged a passage to Niagara, on board of the Ame- rican schooner Fair American, which is to sail im- mediately. From thence you may expect hear agciin from Yours, C. S. < i present in- is of an old mile distant 44 ?; I LETTER IV. Presque Isle, Upper Canada, July 31, 1807. Dear Friend, MY last informed you that I had taken passage on board of the Fair American, a handsome schooner, of about eighty tons burthen, fitted with every convenience that could render a passage agreeable on the Hudson. We were bound to Niagara, but head winds, and a heavy sea, com- pelled us to seek a harbour in his Britannic Ma- jesty's dominions. We sailed from Oswego on the twenty-sixth of this month, in company with two British schooners, who were bound to dif- ferent ports. There were eight passengers of us m the cabin, consisting of Mrs. Y. and her sister on their return from New- York to Niagara, Dr.' E. and daughter, from Nova Scotia, who were on a visit to some friends in York, Upper Canada ; Mr. B. on his return to Presque Isle, in Pennsyl- vania, from a trip down the Ohio and Mississippi, where he expected to have found a certain great diaracter, now at Richmond in Virginia ; Mr. D. who is about establishing himself as a trader at 45 Chamauque Lake ; and Mr I „ j » -"S-'h^'r.'^ «^"-"y performed port; but, on settino- i„, tf ^ '^™g "•« - we. ;e*erbfcrer sl* f T '^" ever, which soon appea^H in f""' *"''''' '«'»'■ ■he approach of a vZT ^ "*''' '"'"e^'ed nued to beat for , J rf ' "^'T ""^'^^ «e eonti- "eased to . fZhZi^'T^ "'''"*'• "''- " "- he.^ -a ast^" nf^;^„:'f ,™-d -'h a short Sreeable. P-^viTuTto th r"''™'^'^ *»" M been .„ch rrTin.^ J^^T ""^- "^ Of the ladies; 4«t ther w. conversation unable to afford .o each TlT^ *^^ '^ere wfeh their situation, renuir^ t!T """''™^ been n,uch aecustomedTt ,f^' ' '"^' rolling of a vessel at sea ye, thf*' '"^ ''«"''' experienced was so veryXm t^r ' """ gan to feel the necessitv T T ' "^ ' >^ be- ^horttime. SicC:'^:,';:-^-<^eWora 4 i • c:>-. 48 we had been so unsuccessful the day before, and, as they luid " the one thing needful," we did not despair of their success. Messrs. B. D. and L. took their 'fowling pieces and went down the bay, where I had noticed considerable flocks of ducks flying ; while Dr. E. and myself proceeded up the bay, provided with the necessary fishinc; apparatus, in order to try our luck in that sport. At the same time we despatched two of the men belonging to the vessel to some mills, at about four miles dis- tance, in order to procure some flower. After an absence of about three hours we returned, and found* the ladies had been more successful than we had any reason to hope ; they had procured a sup- ply of butter, bread and milk, and the promise of some meat. Mr. B. and party had shot seven large ducks ; while Dr. E. and myself had taken about seventy fine bass. We had likewise fallen in with a party of Massasaugo Indians, and given them to understand that, if they brought fish to our vessel, which we pointed out to them, we would give them both money and whiskey, and, by way of encouragement, gave them a hearty dram. This had the desired effect, for we had no occasion, afterwards, to go a fishing, unless for amusement, for they fumished us with such an abundance, that we knew not what to do with them, so that the crew salted up large quantities. The Indians seemed to pay very little regard to 1 49 money, m dealing with us; liquor was their chief inducement, and they would give a hundred weight of fish for a pint of whiskey. I saw the same method made use of here, for taking fish, which I have before witnessed upon the Oneida Lake. Although I did not think this could afford me any amusement, yet I felt a de- sire to try the experiment, and accordingly enga- ged a Canadian to prepare his boat for the evening. It is indeed astonishing.what quantities of fish may be taken in this way. The fish appear to be de- lighted with the sparkling glare thro^vn around them, and, as the water is perfectly clear and trans- parent, you may distinguish them at twenty and thirty yards distance ; nor will they stir if you paddle immediately over them, unless you 'are noisy, or make a pass at them; thev then dart a small distance out of the way, where 'you may ap- proach them again. We were engaged in this sport for an hour and a half, during which time we caught eleven fish, weighing together not less than two hundred pounds. We saw no salmon in this bay, but there are pike, maskonangee and buffaloe fish, which will weigh from five to thirty pounds. The bass, of which there are varieties are very abundant, and are from one to three pounds weight. Eels are likewise found in great plenty, equal in size and flavour to those of the Oneida Lake. VOL. I. « 50 J* Tlie land around this bay, and for several miles back, is a rich level country, and, about five miles from the harbour, there are several considerable set- tlements. As I was one day strolling through the woods with my gun, I unexpectedly heard several voices, and shortly afterwards came upon a very plain road, which, in a very little time, brought me to a house, which proved to be a country tavern. On inquiry, I found this was the main road through the province, and led to York, the seat of govern- ment of Upper Canada. Here I found six or seven plain looking farmers, who were travelling towards York. Perceiving that I was a stranger, they inquired to what part of the province I belonged'? I told them I was a traveller from New- York to Niagara, but obliged to put into their harbour on account of bad weather. The affair of the Chesapeake had but just reached their ears ; they were very anxious to know whether I thought it would lead to a war ? I told them I did not think it would, as I could not believe the British government would sanction the unwarranta- ble proceedings of their admiral, and, therefore, would be ready to make us all the concessions we could expect. They appeared, and even express- ed themselves, disappointed, as they hoped that it would end in a rupture, in which event they expected to become a part of the United States. Upon my return to the harbour I had some con- versation with the officer before mentioned, and, p.^- ^tf^ ni immm, veral miles t five miles derable set- hrough the ;ard several pon a very brought me itry tavern, •ad through of govern- md six or e travelling a stranger, province I Lveller from to put into ther. The ;ached their >vv whether told them I believe the Luivvarranta- 1, therefore, cessions we en express- hoped that event they ed States. I some con- tioned, and, 51 among oUier things, inquired what dependence the British government could place upon their provin- cial militia ? His answer was, " that, as they had " almost wholly emigrated from the United States, " the Canadian government did not place any con- " jidence in them." Our captain having returned, with a sufficient stock of provisions, bread excepted, he determines to weigh anchor to-morrow morning, and proceed on the voyage to Niagara ; from whence you may expect to hear from me again. Yours, C. S. T-i "X-.^* XN- A 5'2 I ' m LETTER V. Fort Niagara, Lake Ontario, August 4, 1807. Dear Friend, THE day after we left Presque Isle we spoke the British schooner Hunter, bound to York. This place, which you will find laid down on most of our old maps by the name of Toranto, is immediately opposite to the River Niagara. It is said to be the best of any harbour on the lake, and contains about two hundred houses. As two of our pas- sengers. Dr. E. and his daughter, were bound to that port, they embraced the present opportunity of shortening their voyage. The meeting of these two vessels afforded me much amusement, and for a moment made me forget that I was only sailing upon a fresh water pond, as all the ceremony usual upon meet- ing on the Atlantic was practised upon this occa- sion. The wind having been tolerably free since we left our port, we flattered ourselves with a conti- nuance of it, which would have brought us to our desired harbour by evening ; but we were once ^#". -:"*■ 9*'-^mw-- SsatW^Bt^ 53 o'tiock in y one of th more disaj pointed, for, about tl the afternoon, we were assai ,^ ,,„^ „^ ,„ severest thunder storms that I ver knew ; an^i for half an hour, were obliged to .and all our sail, after which i{ cleared awa) le.ving us without J breath of wind. The lake, at this time, being perfectl)- cal md smooth, and, from the information of .he ca^.tain the place where we lay as deep as any part of it, I was induced to try the experiment of drawing up some water from a depth of forty or fifty fathom, which I had been told would be found re- markably cool, and more agreeable than the finest spring water. It being the warmest season of the year, and this day particularly hot, I thought a supply of cool water would be a most desirable acquisition. I accordingly prepared a line of forty fathom, and, having secured the bottle in such a manner that I could withdraw the cork after it had descended the length of my line, drew up a bottle full of the water from that depth, which I found very cool. Upon applying to it Fiu-enheit's ther- mometer, I found it fell to S:!>^, and, immediately after, drawing up a bucket full from the surface and applyiniv the thermometer to it, it continued to rise until it rested at 68- ; a difference of fifteen degrees. The wind continuing Hght and baffling during the night, we made bat very little progress toward our port, and, at sunrise, the wind came directly i -II •^ '"^■m.: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■so ""^■" 2.5 6' 2.2 2.0 i.4 III 1.6 /£^ -y. >r^ ^, ^^W/ d^. Photographic Sciences Corporation »m C> ^ ,\ '^ \\ 'fv ^>. ' ^^ rv '^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEPSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 54 I Hh W a-head. Before the rising of the wind, as I was on deck, I could very plainly distinguish the hollow munnuring of the Falls of Niagara, although not less than twenty miles distant. As soon as the wind began to breeze, however, the sound was lost, nor did I hear it again until I landed at this place. The roar of these falls can be heard at any considerable distance only during a perfect calm, and when a light current of air comes from the direction of the falls ; when, I am told, it has been heard at a distance of forty miles across the lake. Having been buffeted about all that day in sight of our port, we at length gained the harbour a lit- tle after dark, and landed at the American garrison, where we slept that night, and the next morning passed over to Newark, on the British side of the river. The town cf Newark, or, as it is frequently called. West Niagara, to distinguish it from East Niagara, on the American side, lies on the right side of the river us you enter it from the lake ; it is pleasantly situated, and makes a handsome appear- ance from the water, and contains about two him- dred houses. The British have erected a conve- nient light- house on the point just below the town, and directly opposite the American fort. The British fort is a mile above the town ; the garri- son at present consists of two hundred mei: ; the works are said to be strong, and to command those of the Americans. They have been very busy il 55 ever since the arrival of the news of the attack on the Chesapeake frigate; since which they have opened two new embrasures, which bear upon the American garrison. They have, likewise, a full band of musicians attached to the gar- rison, for the honour of his majesty's arms, and the entertainment of his soldiers, who, notwith- stunding this temptation to remain, never suffer an opportunity of escaping to pass unimproved. The Niagara River is three-quarters of a mile in breadth ; it affords plenty of excellent fish, and its current is at the rate of four miles an hour. There were three British schooners lying at the King's yard, when we arrived, two of which sailed the next morning. The greater part of the in- habitants of this town are Americans, and as warmly attached to our government as our own citizens. They never seek to disguise their sen- timents in public, but express themselves with as much freedom as you would do at the Theatre or Tontine Coffee-House. I was at a public house where eigiit or ten of the inhabitants were collected around a billiard table ; the attack upon the Che- sapeake was the topic of conversation, and one gendeman observed, " if congress will only send " us a flag, and a proclamation declaring that who- " ever is found in arms against the United States "shall forfeit his lands, we will fight ourselves " free witliout any expense to diem." ) ■ / ) 1 '^ ;^1 56 The American garrison, which at present con- sisis of no more than sixty men, commanded by Capt. L. are daily engaged in strengthening the works of their fort, ahhough no orders from our government have been received to that purpose ; yet, in consequence of the unpleasant state of our affairs, a double guard has been set, and stricter discipline established. I had expected to find a considerable town around this fort, and, therefore, was not a litde disappointed when I saw not even the shadow of one. About a mile above there is a new settle- ment laid out, called Young's Town, which at present consists of no more than five or six houses. About a quarter of a mile above Young's Town is an elevated situation, whi:h will admit of a fortification being constructed sufficiently high to command the British fort, which is immediately opposite to it. This, however, must be done in time of peace, as it cannot be expected that, when it is in'their power to prevent it, they would, du- ring a wtu-, suffer a work to be erected which, eventually, would dislodge them from their pre- sent position. I flattered myself that, before this time, I should have had a peep at the Falls of Niagara, and been enabled to have stiid a word or two respecting them ; but I find myself still seven miles further off than I expected, from the accounts of Win- 1 ■^, resent con. tnanded by hening the i from- our t purpose ; It state of \ set, and 'able town lot a little shadow of lew settie- which at /e or six i Young's kvill admit lently high imediately )e done in ;hat, when ^ould, du- ^d which, their pre- , I should and been especting es further of Win- 57 terbotham and Morse, who both represent the fails as being but eight miles from the lake, whereas they are not less than fifteen. The mouth of Niagara River lies in latitude 43. 10. N. and 79. 15. W. As the vessel I arrived in is to go to Lewis Town, which is eight miles from this, and a fair wind inviting me, I shall continue on board. Yours, c. a p. S. The distance from Oswego is one hun- dred and sixty-five miles, and from New- York, by water, five hundred and forty-six. The passage from Oswego to this place is six dollars for a cabin passenger, including board. The freight of a barrel of salt is sixty-twoand a half cents ; mer- chandise at the rate of one dollar a barrel, avera- ging fifty cents to a hundred weight. Salt is a cash article, and is said to be a lawful tender throughout the western country. c. a VOL. y. N [J 58 'f : LETTER VI. % Chippaway, Upper Canada, Atigmt 6, 1807. Dear Friend, FROM Niagara we proceeded up the river to Lewis Town, on the left bank, a new settlcnjent of about a dozen houses, so called in honour of his ex excellency Governor Lewis ; but, as his sun of glo- ry has set, the inhabitants talk of petitioning the le- gislaiure for leave to change its name ! Immediately opposite to it lies Queen's Town, a village of Up- per Canada, containing about a hundred houses, and a small garrison of twenty-eight men. Both these towns are situated at the head of the naviga- tion of Niagara River, and each has a carrying place round the foils ; that on the American side, how- ever, is the best, and two miles the shortest. The freight and passage are the same, whether you land here or at Niagara. The rapids commence about a quarter of a mile above these towns, and continue with increa- sing and irresistible force for nearly eight miles, up to the foot of the falls. ust 6, 1807. 59 The State of New- York has granted the exclu- sive right to Porter, Burton & Co. for a term of years, of the site of old Fort Schlosser, which is the landing place on the American side, immediate- \y abovt the falls, upon condition that thty should build store-houses at Lewis Town, Fort Schlosser and Black Rock, on Lake Erie, which they have done. The portage for salt and other articles was formerly principally upon the British side; but, since the present arrangement, the whole of the ponage is on the American side. Add to this, that there is now much greater security in transporting goods dian formerly, as this company are bound not only to have all perishable articles housed and stored, but are even answerable for the safe delivery of whatever is committed to their care. The portage is thirty, seven and a half cents a barrel to Fort Schlosser, and merchandii. . at the rate of twenty, five cents per hundred. The distance is seven miles. I spent part of a morning at Queen's Town, where the only topic of conversation was war. The sam* sentiments prevailed there as at Niagara and Pr. .|ue Isle, namely, a determined partiality to- wards the United States, and a decided and almost avowed hostility to the British government. On your way to the falls, and about four miles below them, on the American side, is a very cu- rious place, called the Devil's Diving Hole, which is nearly one hundred feet deep ; the edge of it is ♦ ^■41 -f^'' ^i^l^-^. 60 so very near the road that they have taken the pre- caution to cut down some trees, so as to form a kind of l)arricado, in order to prevent cattle at strangers from falling into it. This hole, as it is called, is, more properly speaking, the narrow ex- tremity of a considerable ravine, which has, at some remote period, been formed in the rock ; it shelves off as it descends towards the river, and is in length about two hundred yards from the road to the river. The top is so overgrown with bushes that a hasty view would induce many to suppose it to be really a hole ; but a closer exami- nation sooii leads the eye along the windings of its courses, and discovers a very considerable breadth at no great distance. A hemlock tree, firmly rooted at the bottom, stretches its top al- most to the surface, and is so conveniently fitted to the hole or opening, that you have only to de- scend five or six feet, when its branches afford you a safe and easy step-ladder quite to the bot- tom, where you will find a copious spring of ex- cellent water to refresh yourself. They relate an occurrence which is said to have taken place at this spot during the French wars ; the circumstances are as follows : " A British de- tachment being pursued by a superior French force, were hemmed in in such a manner that " their retreat to the road was cut off, and tiieir es- '* cape effectually prevented by this ravine ; seeing " their situation irretrievable, they laid down their (( (( •'1 .^1 '* arms, and surrendered themselves prisoners of war ; notwithstanding which, the French, with " charged bayonets, rushed upon them, and prr- cipitated the whole party down this precipe, where they aU perished except one, whose Ufe ' was preserved by falling on some of his com- " rades." On leaving Lewis Town, at about the distance of a m,ie, ,s a very considerable hill, from the top ot which IS seen an immense tract of fine level land, stretching through the Genessee Country on the east, through that part of Upper Canada which hes along Lake Ontario to the west, and even be yond the lake towards the north. The country to the south, although so obstructed with timber as to prevent a view to any great distance, I am in- formed continues level as far as that part of Lake Erie which forms the division line of the States of New- York and Pennsylvania. The village of the Tuscaroras is situated about three miles to the east of this hill. These Indians are under the pastoral care of the Rev. Elkanah Holmes, who was absent on a journey to Albany which prevented me from obtaining all the infor' mation I expected. This tribe is already in a great measure civilized, having a number of trades and improvements among them; and some of them have become rich and substantial farmers One of the tribe informed me that they consisted at present of eighty men. V V- ¥ }■' I'i •y «^%,»*«^^. 62 Two miles below the falls is a very singular whirlpool, which is caused by an abrupt turn of the river to the right ; the current is so violent as in some measure to shoot past the opening into a large basin directly in front of it, where it acquires that rotatory motion which has given it the name of the whirlpool. The greater part of the water collected in this eddy, must pass off underneath, as is evi- dent from the depression in the middle of the cir- cle, which has the appearance of water in a huge funnel. Ti ees of one hundred feet in length, with a great part of their branches, are here frequently seen spinning round, until, by constant friction, or coming in contact with each other, they are at length broken to pieces. Sometimes they are drawn under and disappear for some minutes, when they again show themselves above the surface, and continue the same motion as before ; while at other times they disappear altogether. The whole of this river, from the foot of the falls to near Lewis Town, is in a state of the most violent agita- tion, dashing its foaming billows ten or twelve feet high, which, when viewed from its lofty banks of solid rock, about two hundred feet in height, give it more the appearance of a river of milk than of Avater. The Falls of Niagara are certainly the greatest natural curiosity that I have ever seen. I have read different accounts, and examined many en- gi-avings and puintirigs, but all fall so far short of '"? 63 reality that the resemblance is not even as the sha dow ,o the substance. Indeed . do not thinT ,t ■n the power of either the pen or the pencil to do just.ce to a subject so sublime as this From what 1 have just said, I would gladly ™ myself of an excuse for passing over the'suT ot of ttT ', "r" *"' """'" "" » — - one of the articles of our treaty, I find myself un- der the necessity of sending you sometJr.g. Figure to yourself the first collection of these wate... at a distance of upw.Ms of two thou^nd m,les, passmg through the Lake of the Woods Ramy Lake and seveml smaller, and at Ch ftl hng .nto Lake Superior, ti,e Meditern,neZf hundred miles m circumference, and sunnlied by more than thirty considerabk rivers t^m thence contmutng its cou^e into Lake Hurr 2eL The "■"" '" ^'^™™f--- -»-: meetmg the immense collection of waters flow ng from the south west through L ,ke Michigal »t.ll larger than Lake Huron, i, continue i"s eourse through Lake St. Clair into Lake Er which IS also nearly eight hundred miles in circuit • from thence, with a rapid current, passing do™ fte Niagara River to the frontier of "what may b" ealled the upper coumry, with astonishing 1„ deur, ,, there dsicharges this immense ujy "f 'rater down a peq^endicular precipice of nearly t i ■ \ '\ . il /£d tt . /r^' ^ / ^° hundred feet, which forms the cdebrated cata- V--' Hract of Niagara. , \ 1'hc Canada shore aJFords the most satisfactory I view of these fells, as the greatest body of water descends upon that side. The American, how- ever, is not wkhout its peculiar beauiies. That part of the Canada shore, which presents a full view of the fall's, is what is called the Table Rock, which is the nearest point of approach widi safety, as it is just upon the margin of the great sheet of falling water. From this spot you have a fiair view of thdVhole fall, rushing with such in- credible swiftness over the precipice to the un- * fathomable abyss beneath, that, when you first fix your eye upon the descending mass, you instinctive- ly make an inv61untary retreat of a step or two, as if fearful of being overwhelmed in the vast descent of waters. Immediately before you lies Goat Island, which divides the falls, and does not appear to the eye mwe than a stone's throw; but, on making the trial, it affords much surprise to find that, instead of approaching near the island, it falls almost as it were under your feet, not even reach- iiiig to the margin or edge of the waters below. I was likewise much disappointed to find the noise far less than I had anticipated ; and, upon men- tioning the circumstance to our guide, lie inform- ed nie that I would perceive the diflference after having visited them from below. 1 I A ^ ■ x"^ 65 After having satisfied ourselves with the prcseM view of these falls, and conformed to the cu.lom of the place, by engraving our names on a rock, we proceeded to the place leading to the bottom, for which purpose I had understood there was a convenient ladder ; but, upon examination, found It so old and crazy as almost to make me give over the attempt. You will perhaps excuse my tirn.d,ty,^when you are informed that this ladder, vvhich is eighty feet in length, is placed in a perpen- dicular direction over sharp and cragged rocks; and Its bcmg spli< 1 and bound together in several P aces with grape vines, did not tend to lessen the 111 opinion I had already conceived respecting its sufficiency. However, there was no choice ; our guide, being accustomed to the descent, had al. ready disappeared. I endeavoured to prevail upon Mr. I,, to lead the way, but to no purpose ; « he did not think it would pay for the trouble ; and I' as for his part, he had seen as much as he cared tor. ' I was at length under the necessity' of de- scending alone, and had already gone about half the' vvay, when I found the poor ladder, by^ some acci- dent or other, had lost four of its rounds ; this cir- cumstance, added to its constant tremulous motion did not render my situation a whit more plea- sing ; so making one more effort to reach the yet distant step, and finding it impossible, withom sliding down the side of the ladder, and recollect- mg at die same moment tliat I could not slide VOL. I. , / ■t >■ • } \ > i\ IW0^ ■4 66 «»f, up again, I determined to ascend, and wait until I could provide a rope to support myself with. Ha- ving at length procured one from a neighbouring house, I descended, without much difficulty, to the bottom of the ladder. The remaining height is comparatively easy ; but, winding over sharp and rugged fragments of rocks, it requires some cau- tion and a sure foot to avoid a fall, which, proba- bly, would be rttended with some serious acci- dent. This, ladder is placed about half a mile below the falls, the whole c" which distance, after de- scending the ladder, you have to walk over sharp pointed fragments of rocks, which occasionally break off from the projecting precipices above, par- ticularly towards spring, when the thaws com- mence. Our guide pointed out to us a huge mass which had fallen since he was here last, which was very evident, as the fresh earth and leaves still ad- hered to the fragments in many places. In ap- proaching the falls from these lower regions, you soon perceive the vast difference between the noise here and above ; and although it may l^e said that you sec the falls from above, yet it certainly is be- low where you hear them. From above you indeed hear a great roaring noise, yet it has the resemblance of being at some considerable distance ; but, when once you approach from below, your ears seem gradually to lose all sense oi hearing, and for some minutes you are doubtful whether you really pos-- sess that faculty or not. The first involuntary mo- nous acci- 67 tion of the eye, after taking a ha&ty view of the falling sheet, and the violent agitation of the re- bounding waters, as you approach the falls, is to trace the excavated and projecting point of the Table Rock, upon which you stood above. You halt— your eye roves wildly over the scene be- fore you—your hair becomes erect, and a sudden chill seems to pervade the whole body, when you reflect that your very existence should, even for a moment, have rested upon the slender shell of what now appears to be a ^rm6/m^ excavated rock, threatening almost instantaneous precipitation into the dreadful abyss below ! Such were the impressions made upon my mind at the moment; and, even now, the recital of them seems almost to realize the imaginary danger. I was now at the bottom of the falls, and deter, mined minutely to examine the truth of all that I had read and heard respecting them ; amongst other thmgs was the practicability of passing « if not " through, at least to some considerable distance " between, the falling sheet and the rocks." The facility of doing this, from the various descrip- tions I had read, as likewise from die assertion of several gentlemen who had made the experiment, had so for prepossessed my mind i.n favour of its practicability, that the attempt had nearly cost me my life. Being full of this assurance I ad- vanced behind the fall, or rather behind the mar- gin of the falling mass, when, on a sudden, I found a difficulty of respiration. The attack was slight, 68 I -f but unexpected. I retreated a step or two, but finally persuaded myself it was nothing more .than an involuntary precaution, which my timidity had inspired. I accordingly advanced, but cautiously, to the same spot, where I halted for a moment, and found my respiration easy, which again con- vinced me that I was mistaken. I therefore mo- ved slowly forwardj and had, as near as I can re- collect, advanced three or four steps, when I was a second time attacked so severely as nearly to deprive me of my senses. I retreated a few paces, and, lest I should become giddy, and fall into the abyss beneath, set myself down on the wet rock, where, in a few seconds, I discovered I had lost my hat, which I perceived lying about five or six paces from me. One moment's reflection, how- ever, convinced me of the imprudence of a third attempt ; I therefore retreated a few steps more in order to make my future experiments with less personal danger. Finding myself, therefore, in a place of security, I took up a stone weighing one or two pounds and threw it with all my strength between the sheet of falling water and the rocks; it fell about forty feet from where I stood, as if it had there met something to oppose its fardier pro- gress. I repeated the experiment above a dozen times, and always found the same result. Larger stones I could cast in any other direction to a distance of eighty and one hundred feet ; but immediately behind the fiills, about thirty or forty feet, was the 79 greatest distance I could cast one, beyond the place I had advanced ; from whence I conclude that the co.npression of air between the falls and rocks is so great that ih living creature ever has, or ever can pass betwixt them. It is impossi- ble for me to describe to you accurately how I felt when I was attacked ; for, to confess the truth, I was too much frightened at the moment to form any idea not immediately connected with my own preservation. I am wholly at a loss whether or not it wasjn reality a difficulty of breathing which prevented my advancing The strongest impression upon my'mind is, that I felt something^ke a blow in my face, without, how- ever, leaving any marks of violence ; but how or in what manner I lost my hat I was not sensible, but believe it must have been by a sudden blast of wind. Immediately below the falls are several small eddies, where there is excellent fishing ; but tlie difficulty of ascending and descending is too great to compensate an ordinary sportsman. I should not, however, have neglected this oppo'rtu- nity had I been provided with the necessary ap. paratus ; but, as that happened not to be the case I contented myself with clambering over the rockl along tile shore, frequently amusing myself with the many curious pieces of timber found hereaiid there, cast up by a higher water, and deposited as it were for samples of the forms and varieties which are continually ground in the water xvorfa of Nia- gara. !'•* ) ' I ■I ^^1 s - 70 l\-J. Having spent the greatest part of the day in ex- amining this wild and delightful scene, we set down upon an isolated rock and refreshed our- selves with a bottle of wine and some crackers and cheese ; after which we took our course to- wards the ladder, and, by the time we reached it, the wine had operated so powerfully as to render the use of the rope for ascending en- tirely unnecessary. Indeed, had there not been a sing] » round in the ladder, I believe we should all have ascended with less difficulty than we came down. But to proceed : The current of the Niagara Rivei begins to grow very strong immediately be- low Chippaway village, which is something more than two miles above the falls ; so that, in order to pass over in safety, it is necessary to ascend along the shore for nearly a mile before you attempt to cross. For two miles above the falls, on the Ca- nada shore, no attempt is ever made to cross in any kind of craft. The firsi mile, particularly, ex- hibits one continued scene of raging and foaming billou , dashing and rebounding against hidden and projecting rock^. The descent of this rapid is probably not less than one hundred feet within the last mile ; and the vast body of water rushing over its rugged and broken bottom, exhibits a scene of noise and confusion surpassed only by the fall itself. The following story I had heard long before my arrival at this place ; yet, as it was with considera- '4 71 ble exaggerations, I now relate it simply as it was told me here : " An Indian having procured a " bottle of rum, refused to indulge his amiable " squaw with such frequent and copious draughts " from it as he did himself. This so offended the " old lady, that when she found him at last over- ly come with the fumes of his bottle, and that he " had laid himself down in his canoe to slumber a *' little, she gendy pushed the canoe from the " shore, which, in a few minutes, was carried by " the suction into the breakers, where the noise " and commotion operated so powerfully upon the " poor wretch as to awake him to a sense of his " irretrievable danger. For a minute he tried the " strength of his arm and paddle, but finding his " last moments near, he seized the bottle of rum, " raised it to his mouth, and in that posture was " hurled into the dreadful abyss below." They likewise relate another story of a most mu-aculous escape of a Canadian boat, with ten or twelve persons on board, that came very near go- ing over the falls. In order to understand it perfectly you must first be informed, that a company have erected a set of mills on the edge of these upper rapids, on the British side, where the stream is too violent to permit any thing like a regular dam or raceway to be built; here they have thrown in some rocks, which, combined with others in their natural situation, turn an abundant supply of wa- ter around a small bend, for the use of the mill. / ^.- »^f.«R..-» ■*i':i»-..„'iii(Sfs 72 ti *i It appears there was a Canadian boat which " had entered the river after a hard and laborious " day's work on Lake Erie. All hands being " much fatigued, and having the advantage of a " good current and smooth water, they set one to " watch, while the remainder laid themselves down " to sleep. It happened, however, that the watch- " man likewise fell asleep ; and, as the distance was but fifteen miles, they soon drifted down to the " rapids, where the noise and motion of the boat *' first awaked them to a sense of their critical si- " tuation. All is lost they cried ; and every " man fell down on his knees to tell his beads or ♦' say a prayer, when the captain resolutely com- " manded them to man their oars and pull for " their lives. They obeyed him ; and, at the " very moment when they expected to be hurled " into the dreadful abyss, the boat struck a-mid- " ships upon the very rocks just mentioned, and " broke in two ; the stern part in an instant was " precipitated over the falls, while the fore part, " with all the men, was carried down the mill " race, by which means they were saved." While yet at a very great distance, you will always observe a volume of clouds hoA'ering over the falls ; nor is there any exception e^'en in the clearest and brightest day ; the only perceivalile difterence is in their height and colour. In a clear bright day they appear very high and white, while, on the tontiar}', in heavy, cloudy weather, they 1 ... - /r" - . 73 ^nk lower and acquire a smoky appearance. Thes clouds proceed from the vapour arising from the spray formed by the dashing of the wa Zljf" .' '"^ °^ '°'°"^ ^d ^^"^tion of and density of the atmosphe,^. The farmers set- tled immediately in the neighbourhood of the falls informed me that this spray causes the deadi of a great part of their cattle during the cold winters; as the continued fall of the dew and vapour con- stantly covers them with a coat of ice, which brings on a disease that carries them off in a short time. I purpose going over to the American side to- morrow from whence I intend to take a further v^vv and examination of the falls, and shall not lail to make you acquainted with eveiy thing I find worth noticing. I intended, before I closed this, to have given you some account of the Chin paway village but as it is already of an uni Jai ength, and I shall probably tarry a few days longer m this countiy, and have another opportu- nity of writing, for the present farewell. Yours, •! I C. S. VOL. I. 74 LETTER VII. Fort Schlosseft Niagara River^ August 8, 1801 Dear Friend, 'I CHIPPAWAY ViUage, from which I wotc my last, is situated on both sides of Chippaway River, and connected by a good wooden bridge. This viUage, which is built upon the site of an old town of the Chippaway nation, contains only about twehty houses. It has a garrison of twenty- eight men, and some slight fortifications. The river is navigable for about thirty miles for light craft ; and towards the head waters are settled a few of the Chippav/ay nation. The Chippaway is the blackest and most stagnant water of any living stream I have ever seen, in colour and flu- idity strongly resembling West India molasses ; it falls into the Niagara about two and a half miles above the falls. This pure ?nd beautiful river, as if conscious of the putrid and noxious qualities of the Chippaway, refuses to intermix with her foul stieam, but forces her to roll her thick and turbid waters along the Canada shore, until, arriving at a bend of the river, they go off to supply the mills before mentioned. 75 Having given you all the information I have been able to collect respecting this town, I shall now proceed to amuse you with the remarks and observations resulting from my view of the falls on this side of the river. When you arc at Fort Schlosseryou have about one mile to walk to the pitch of the falls, the greater part of which distance is along the banks of the river, where you have an occasional peep at the rapids above. About a i^uarter of a mile be- fore you arrive at the falls you pass an exceUent set of mills, erected by Porter, Barton 8c Co. The situation of these mills is so very eligible, na- ture having prepared everj- thing, that there re- mained little else to do but to build them. As you proceed. Goat Island, which divides the falls, is seen at no great distance on your left ; the river between is full of rocks, and here and diere you perceive considerable lodges of drift wood, seem- ingly waiting for a rise of the river in order to launch themselves over the falls. The margin of the river on this side is much obstructed with trees and bushes, so that it re- * quires some labour to clear away a space suffi- ciently large to obtain a full view of the falls. You may approach equally as near to die fallmg sheet on this as on the opposite side of the river ; and, by taking a proper station, in the morning of a clear day, upon the edge of the precipice, you will behold beneath your feet a beautiful and varie- ^<««faMj«I-^.-4>e^-> J ■V 78 Ml gated rainbow, stretching from the American to the Canada shore, and perpetually rolling, as if it intjcnded to confound all its bright and glorious colours into one confused mass^ while each still re- mains separate and distinct. - , You may, likewise, have a very handsome view not only of the falls, but also of the river both above and below, by climbing sixty or seventy feet up a sturdy old oak, which stands on the mar- gin of the precipice, a small distance below the falls, and near the banks of the river. We next went to examine the hole which leads to the lower regions on this side of the river. The appearance of it was so truly frightful that I relin- quished the design I liad formed of descending it, and returned to my lodgings. Being assured, how- ever, the next day, that the appearance ^vas more dreadful than the reidity, and that any person not subject to giddiness, who could depend upon the strength of his arms in sustaining the weight of his body occasionally, might descend in perfect safety, I determined to make the attempt. Pro- curing a guide and some ropes, I proceeded to the hole, which was not less than two hundred feet above the surface of the river. The guide, having made a rope fast to a tree, soon disappeared under the projecting rock, while he repeatedly called on me to follow. Ashamed at length of my o\vn ti- midity, I obeyed, and, after a thousiind hair- breadth escapes, arrived safely at the bottom. « ■%-;ff*.' i J:^A.^i•i.i, 77 In making the descent on this side, I had o-ca-' sion to remark, as on the other, the vast difference in the noise heard from above and below. Whether it was owing to the current of air setting over on this side, or some other cause, I know not ; but certainly the thundering roar of the waters was much greater Mn on the other. The dread of ialling wb.i. descending prevented my noticing the increased ratio of the noise; but I no soon^ found myself at the bottom, than the mountains appeared to tremble over my head, and the rocks seemed to move under my feet ; and, indeed, it is ^ome time before you can free yourself from these sensations. You may advance so near to the fall on this side as to wash your hands in the falling water- but here, as on the other side, in a few minutes you are quite wet to the skin. This is owing to the abundance of vaix)ur which is continually falling- ior, m many places, the spray rebounds from the rocks with so much violence as to prevent a nearer approach; and the constant humidity has covered the rocks below the falls with a luxuriant growth of grass of tliree feet in length, amongst which are lound thousands of young eels. Immediately below the flills is a small space in the river, over which a boat might cross with the greatest safety, being the onlv place where such a passage is practicable betwee;! the falls and Queen's Town. The cause I take to be this • the '/ 78 immense column of water is hurled into the un- fathomable gulph to agreatdepth immediately aiort' this .|X)t, and, by its own reaction, breaks out wiUi inconceivable fury below ; it causes a kind of calm eddies over the surface of the intermediate space alluded to, which, although it apjiears white from the raging of the waters underneath, yet, compara- tively, may be considered as still as a mill-pond. Wliat firut led me to this reflection was the ma- iiojuvres of some wild ducks, which I observed swimming backwards and forwards across this space, and who carefully avoided every place which I should liave thought dangerous for a boat. Could I have obtained a canoe or sk^ff, I should not have h^itated a moment about trying the ex- periment. There are considerable quantities of lish, deer and other animal bones found along this shore, being, as I suppose, the remains of such as have be-n crushed in the falls. It is the com- mon opinion, however, that the sir ^iller fish gene- rally escape unhuit. After having spent the whole morning in these lower regions, we made our ascent once more to the upper ; and I do not know that I ever felt more satisfaction than when I found myself safely landed upon terra firnia. I am much surprised that a place so celebra- ted as the Falls of Niagara, and which is visited by so miuiy travellers, amongst whom aie no in- considerable number of ladies, should not yet" have induced some enterprising person to erect a con- venient liouse on this side of the river for their ac commodiUion, as likewise a proper sti\irs for de- sccnding to the bottom of the falls. Twenty.five doUars would defray the expense of a convenient stair.ladder, with hand-rails ; and surely no person, after travelling from two hundred to one thousand miles to view the falls, viuld hesitate to pay one, or even five dollars, for r safe and easy conveyance to the bottom. Juc' -^ P. who owns the lands ad- joining the falls on this side of the river, informed me he should, as soon as possible, build a house near the best view of the falls, and appoint some proper person to keep a genteel tavern for the accommodation of the curious. He will like, wise erect a stairs, sufficiently safe and easy for ladies to descend to the foot of the falls. When these conveniences are completed, as I trust they soon will be, I have no doubt but they will attract the frequent and numerous visits of my fair coun- try women, whose laudable curiosity has already been so great as to induce a very considerable number even to risk the present inconveniences, rather than not behold this wonder of the worid. The perpendicular height of tlie falls on this shore is one liundred and sixty-four feet, and on the Ca- n;\dy i-r,i one hui f!rjd and forty-three. liie river, at Fort Schlcsser, is two and a half miles wide, and, for one mile above the falls, alto- gether impassable. Goat Island, which divides F-' 80 10 'A (( the falls, contains about eighteen or tv/enty acres of land, and is situated nearest the American shore. This island has generally been reputed never to have been visited by any human being, excepting, as they relate, « by a couple of Indians, who, many " years ago, were thrown, with their canoe, " upon it, and, after two or three days, spent in se- " veral vain attempts to recover the main land, " were discovered by some of their nation. They, " at length, by making long bark ropes, and " carrying them a coi-.iderablc distance up the " stream, succeeded in floating one end against the " island, by which means they were enabled to " rescue the poor wretches from certain death." It has always been considered impossible for any person ever to get off after having landed on the island. This notion is now found to 'be erroneous ; and we are indebted to an accident for the discovery of a safe and easy passage to the island, provided you have a pilot who has been there before. It seems " a man, in passing from Chippaway to " Fort Schlosser in a canoe, depended so much " upon his own skill and activity in managing his " craft, that he attempted to cross over without " going along the shore a sufficient distance up the " stream. The consequence was, that he would " have bceii precipitated from the height, had he " not accidentally struck the bottom with his " paddle, just as the stream, had carried him in a 1 81 " direct line with the upper end of this island, " where, jumping out, he found he had struck " upon a narrow sand bar a'uout one rod wide, " and never before discovered. He pursued the " whole length of the bar downward, and found " it approached to within fifteen rods of the up- " per end of Goat Island, where the water was " very deep and the curren: strong, but not impass- " able. He crossed this little strait, and was tlie " first man, excepting the two Indians before men^ " tioned, ever known to have landed and returned " from this island." I made some inquiry after this man, but found he was forgotten; and, as the general opinion is that he was drunk when he stumbled on this discovery, it is of no great consequence that you should know who he was. From the situation of the island in the middle of the. falls^ I was strongly tempted to pay it a visit ; and finding a person who had been there before, I engaged him to provide a canoe, and the next morning, after breakfast, we set out on our expe- dition. In less than half an hour we were safely landed upon the island. Having passed to the extremity of it, I suddenly found myself trans- ported as it were to the centre of the grand confusion around me ; and, after cautiously ad- vancing to the edge of the precipice, and obser- ving the firm and solid foundation upon which I VOL. I. L .'t h i i W0 •82 ;V ii Ifl II H 1 ► -I \ stood, I experienced a degree of^ security not to be felt in any other situation when viewing the falls. At no great distance, on my left, I recognised the hollow projectmg Table Rock, upon which I had lately stood ; while, on my right, I traced from rock to rock, under a similar projection, my last descent to the lower regions. The falls are making daily inroads on this island, as well as on the general foundation of the river; for, while standing here, we heard a hollow rumbling noise, which, at one mo- ment, -eemed to die away, then suddenly to re- vive again. I was, for some time, entirely at a loss to account for so strange an occurrence ; at length, as I had turned my face towards the sound, I perceived a large black rock now and then showing itself amongst the foaming billows, which were hurling it over a smooth rocky bottom, on its way to the falls. When last on the Canada shore, I saw an old Indian who spoke tolerably good English, and had a long chat with him respecting the foils. He in- formed me, that, when he was a younng warrior, he was amongst those who gav^ Braddock his fa- mous defeat ; that at that time there wtfs a small rocky island that laid upon the very edge of the Ms, at no great distance from Goat Island, and Avhich was very remarkable for having two trees pr%;cting over the falls. It is reasonable to be- ^,-*Wn. lieve that this account is not untrue, as eight or ten large rocks, lying very near the edge of the falls, are still perceptible, and which, in all proba- bility^ are the last fragments of the little island he alluded to. These would long since have been torn from their foundations, did not their situation protect them from the force of the main current. From the great body of water passing off on the Canada shore, tlie rocks, or foundation of the falls, are subject to greater inroads tliere, than any other part. The falls, from this spot, have something of the form of an irregular horse-shoe, with one side of the curve longer than the other ; the long- est being on the American shore. This is owing to its wearing away much faster on the opposite shore. We found some juniper berries on this island, which were the largest I have ever seen in the State of New- York. After having spent the. whole morning upon this delightful and romantic spot, we left the island, and, by pursuing the same course, returned in stifety to our lodgings, well satisfied with tlie adventures of the day. Yours, C. S. r J 84 I I LETTER VIII. Upper Canada, Qtteen^s Town, August 11, 1807. Dear Friend, NO opportunity of a passage across Lake Erie liaving yet offered, I find myself detained some days longer in this quarter than I expected. I therefore concluded I could not spend my time more agreeably than in making little excursions through this country, sometimes on the Canada side, and at other times on the opposite shore. You will observe, from the date of this, that my last movement has been down the river ; the reason for which is, that having observed that the form and make of the country below the falls coincided with an opinion I had ix.ibibed, that, at some remote period, a great change had there taken place, I was induced to spend all my time in making a personal examination of that part of it situate between Lake f>ie and Lake Ontario. This country may very properly be divided into higher and lower; the latter of which will in- clude the greatest part of that large district com- prehended between Niagara River, Lake Ontario, *T^6iL, 85 and the smaller body of lakes, generally distin- guished as the Genessee Country, in the State of New- York, eastwardly ; as likewise a large extent of country west of the Niagara River, in Upper Canada, including all the country around the west and north-west ends of Lake Ontario. All this appears to me to have been formerly the bed of a great lake, the remains of which we now find in Lake Ontario. From the summit of the highest lands between the two lakes this natural boundary of the former lake is very easily distin- guished, and the immense basin before you has strikingly the appearance of having emerged as the waters subsided. What strengthens this opi- nion is the numerous specimens of lake shells found in every part of this country, in many places fifty miles distant inland. Another circumstance which likewise goes towards supporting this same opinion, is that, in seeking for a proper place to run a new road, a long narrow indented strip of land was found in the heart of a rich loamy coun- try, composed entirely of coarse gravel, pebbles, shells and other marine productions, which now are only found on the shores of the lake, and which evidently had once been the shore, beach or sand bar of the ancient lake. The upper country commences immediately above Queen's and Lewis Towns, where the hills rise gradually to a height of nearly four hundred feet ; from the summit of which you have an ex- ^. .^) f 'II II u 80 tensive view for sixty or eighty miles around, and far across Lake Ontario itself. This ridge rises on both sides of the river, and seems one to have formed the barrier of the western waters above. To the left, after passing into Canada, it winds along the west and south-west parts of Lake On- tario, receding from the lake as it advances in that quarter ; while to the right it passes off eastwardly to the Genessee Country, preserving its elevation still ; from whence it may be traced south -east- wardly until it becomes the dividing ridge between the waters of the Rivers St. Lawrence, Susquehanna and Alleghany, which discharge themselves into the Atlantic ocean near Newfoundland, Baltimore and New-Orleans ; a distance, in the two extremes, of nearly three thousand miles apart. The banks on both sides of the river, from Queen's Town to the present situation of the falls, are solid perpendicular rocky cliiFs, two hundred feet above the surface of the fiver ; and that every part of this distance, which is about seven and a lialf miles, has successiv ^ been tlie site of the falls itself, must be evident to any person who will take the trouble to examine it throughout the whole length. This river, and particularly the part within the distance I am now describing, ne- ver rises above four or five feet higher than it is at present ; and, although it is impassable on ac- count of its violent agitation, yet nothing short of the irresistible fury of the falls itself could ever 87 have made those lasting and ini.nitable impres- sions which are to be seen upon the stupendous mass of rocks throughout the whole of this distance; and for ages to come they will remain as monuments of the great and surprising changes this country has undergone. * From what I could learn of the inhabitants, ma- ny unsuccesrful attempts had been made to sound the river in several j^laces, which, from the gene- ral opinion, is believed to be at least two hundred feet deep. As no boat can live on this part of the river, every attempt of this kind will be made from the land ; and I am well convinced,. from my own observations, that it will be verj^ difficult to sound it with any degree of accuracy, as the immense body of waters^ and velocity of the current, would carry off a weight before it could reach the bottom of the place attempted. If, according to the ^fosaic chronology, our globe, at the present m^- :nt, is no more than five thousand eight hundred and thirteen years old, and we admit the falls to haye been formed at the same time, we shall then have a ratio of encroach, ment upon the upper country of seven and a half aailes during that period. This, upon calculation, I find reduces the proportion to 81 3-4 inches for a year, 6 3-4 inches for a month, and 1-5 of an hich for a day. Although this rate of destruction is great, yet, according to the same authority, we are under the necessity of increasing its ratio near- 4 .|> h 'If i-: t L ^11 / as ly one-half; for, according to the true doctrine of our time, " in consequence of the general deluge, " our globe was torn from its centre, all its parts " confounded together, and, after a general amal- " gamation, was reproduced in form and cubstancc " as we now find it." I have not yet found any one who will admit the formation of the falls to be coeval with our globe ; they are satisfied to go no farther back than the period of Noah's flood. This, then, will oblige me to deduct two thousand three hundred and forty-eight years from my first calcu- lation, as that is said to be the age of our earth at the time of the deluge. The increased rate of en- croachment will, therefore, then be 114 3-10 inches for a year, 9 1-2 inches for a month, and 3-10 of an inch for a day. If, then, it is admitted that these falls, in the short period of four thousand*one hundred and fifty-seven years, have receded from their original situation at Lewis Town, to their present site at Fort Schlosser, a distance of seven miles and a half, we may reasonably calculate that, in the succeeding five hundred and sixty-seven years, they will have advanced at least another mile of 5,280 feet. This, then, will include all the ra- pids above the falls, and, consequently, add an- other height of one hundred feet to their present elevation, which will make a perpendicular fall of nearly three hundred feet. 1 doctrine of :ral deluge, ill its parts neral amal- i Gubstance nd any one falls to be ;d to go no Dod. This, isand three first calcu- )ur earth at rate of en- -10 inches , and 3-10 nitted that )usand*one ;eded from 1, to their e of seven :ulate that, iixty-seven lother mile all the ra- fy add a|i- eir present ular fall of 89 The idea of this once taking place has so heated my imagination, that I have even wished my ap- pearance had been dispensed with until that period • but, since it is not so, I have one consoling idei eft, which is derived from the pleasing specula, tions of a wise man of Greece*-" that we exist lor ever, and only change our forms." If this doctrine is true, (and greater absurdities are be. Iteved to be true,) may I not hope, like " Lucius » m the " Golden Ass of Apuleius," to see these cele- brated falls at the desired period, even should it be in the shape of an ass ? I cannot believe that the falls make so rapid an encroachment upon the upper country as the above account would seem to indicate ; for when you re- fleet that we have been acquainted with this part of the country ever since the year one tiiousand SIX hundred and sixty-eight, making a period of one hundred and forty-one years, which, accord- ing to the calculation made, gives us 1320 feet or one.quarter of a mile, encroachment during that time, I siiy I cannot believe thit a circumstance so- extraordinary should have remained unno- ticed until this late period. And, when you consider that the whole bed and foundation of the falls are composed of a hard solid rock, you will * Pythago,.as who affirmed that his body was animated by the soul of Euphorbus. VOL. I. tt i s } I M/ 90 not be surprised if I say, I even doubt whether it be de>itroyed at the rate of one-twentieth part of an inch tor a day. This I find would give 1 1-2 inches for a month, 18 inches for a year, 1,500 feet for one thousand years ; and to hiive receded from their original position at Lewis Town, to their present situation at Fort Schlosser, would have re- quired i\ period of twenty-seven thousand yeiu-s. I am well aware that this doctrine is better cal- culated for the empire of China than that of my own country, and you know I am too much of a tiue believer myself to advance any thing new, contrary to the ancient regimen ; I shall, therefore, briefly sum up this seeming contradiction by sup- posing that although Moses takes twenty-three thousand years less to complete the same system of destruction, yet, it is very probable, that some vio- lent convulsions of nature may have assisted him more in one of his years than has been experien- ced in the whole of my twenly-sevcn thousand. That die waters of the Niagara River above the falls, as likewise of Lake Erie, continue insensibly to lower, is ronfirmed by almost every person vt'ho has lived long on their banks. The current of the river is likewise said to be stronger than formerly, o\ving, probably, to the continued wearing away of the bed of the river, which affords a more rapid descent for the stream above. Another eonvincing circumstance that this river, above the falls, wii once a part of the iuieient Lake Eric itself, is, th: *^"*'^*^"*i*fc*»*n 91 whether it part of an 1-2 niches 00 feet for :ded from », to their d have re- nd yeiirs. better cal- hat of my much of a thing new, , therefore, on by sup- venty -three e system of t some vio- ssisted him 1 cxperien- housand. r above the e insensibly person vVho rrent of the m formerly, taring away more rapid convincing le falls, wii self, is, th: in diggii ; wells, &c. at a consideraHe distance from the banks, shells are very often found. Judge P. walked with me one morning to a place where n man was digging holes for the purpose of sink- ing tan vats, and where he had found, six or seven feet below the surface of the earth, a great num- ber and variety of shells. This place is about three hundred yards above the falls, and at least thirty feet higher than the surface of the river, in a soil exacdy like tb>t in the bed of the river— a yeU lowish sandy gravel. I took several of the shells as specimens, with an intent to compare them with thos<- found at present in the river ; one, in parti- cular, was so very large and thick, (being seven mches long, three and three-quarters wide, and half an inch thick at the hinge,) that I doubted whether our lakes or rivers produced any thing like it at present. Judge P. however, informed me he had seen some as large taken out of the river ; nor was it long before 1 had an opportunity of being satisfied that they were of the same shape, figure and size with those now found in the bed of the same river. From this circumstance it is evident that this spot was, at some distant period, a part of the lake ; and, as it would require a rise of thirty or forty feet to overflow it, which would consequently inundate a large tract of the sur- rounding country, it is plain that the ancient Lake Erie must have formerly been much larger than it is at present. t [ * ki I ( I ,^ -^"'■i 92 i-i I. ^ H On the hills immediately back of Lewis Town, is still to be seen some small remains of the ma- chinery formerly used by the French, when in pos- session of this country. This is a contrivance made prior to any roads or teams being in use in this wilderness, and so constructed that, with a kind of windlass mid cable, one end would draw up a large frame made to contain three or four thousand weight of goods, while the other end, with an apparatus of the same kind, would de- scend with the same or a greater quantity of peltry. I am likewise informed, that they had another contrivance of the siime kind at the outlet of Lake 2rie, which is the head of Niagara Jliver, where the current is so very rapid that vessels re- quire the strongest sailing breeze to stem it. From this circumstance large vessels seldom drop down so low as the strongest rapids; notwithstanding which, they are frequently obliged to wait a fort- night together for a breeze sufficiently powerful to carry them without the reach of the current. The present portage on the American side, which is seven miles to Fort Schlosser, will un- doubtcdly, in a few years, be changed to a new landing, six miles above the present. This place is owned by a Mr. J. who has purchased a tract of thirteen hundred acres of land from the state, for which he paid five dollars an acre. This site for a town or landing, is no more than seven miles from Lewis Town, which you will perceive is the I WIS Town, f the ma- ten in pos- ontrivance ; in use in at, with a ould draw ;e or four other end, would de- of peltry, d another outlet of am fliver, essels re- it. From rop down hstanding ait a fort- )werful to ent. can side, will un- to a new his place d a tract the state, rhis site 'en miles ive is the 93 same distance to Fort Schlosser, the present land- ing place. The difference of six miles in so short a distance, ,s occasioned by a sudden bend in the river. I have seen and conversed with the oro- prietor of this tract, who described the turn of the river, which I afterwards found to be perfectly correct. Judge P. likewise mentioned to me, as his opmion, that the landing-place would undoubt- edly be removed whenever J. 's property fell into the hands of any one able to open, or rather clear out, a road already opened. The owner of this tract is a Pennsylvanian Ger- man, and fully sensible of the importance of its situation; yet, as he is unable to accomplish any thing himsejf, he offered to dispose of one-half of It to me, as being his countryman; but was afraid to have any thing to do with strangers, lest they should ch.ut him out of the whole. The road is capable of being made good and dry at a very moderate expense, and, from the conviction that It must shortly become the deposit of all the goods which pass down the lakes, I was almost induced * to make the purchase. Yours, C. S. 11 ,; t4 LETTER IX. <--« Lake Erie, Upper Canada, August 16, 1807. Dear Friend, HAVING, in my three last, laboured hard to entertain you with every thing I could observe re- specting the falls, and the surrounding country, I shall now proceed with the progress of my jour- ney. Fort Erie is distant twenty-four miles by water from Fort Schlosser. There is no waggon road on the American side, but a tolerable horse- path, which, if it is not too dark, you may make out to find. The freight from Fort Schlosser to this place, or to Black Rock, as it is called, upon the oppo- site shore, is thirty-seven and a half cents a barrel, and twenty -five cents a hundred weight for mer- chandise ; to which is added, the pleasure of s! eping one night in the woods. As you have already experienced what some of our fair weather friends would call the " horrors of a night in the '* wilderness," I dare not attempt to magnify the dangers and hardships to which one is exposed in a situation so dreadful ; but candidly own I spent 95 the night with more comfort and satisfaction than that which you will recollect we passed about eight years ago on the banks of Lake Ontario, when we were very much frightened at the growl- ing of a bear, who, uninvited, came to partake of our half roasted raccoon. This river is from one to one and a half miles in breadth, with a current of from four to five miles an hour. It is interspersed with a number of rich and beautiful islands, of from twenty to two hun- dred acres. Grand Island, which begins about two miles above Fort Schlosser, is twelve miles long, eight broad, and contains about thirty thousand acres of excellent land. This island is disputed by the British, who claim it as being nearest their shore ; but, as the midd'e of the river is the boun- dary line between the two nations, and the main ehanntl of the river is on the Canada shore, there can be no doubt but the sovereignty of it belongs to the State of New- York. The land on both sides of the river is somewhat low, although not subject to any inundations ; the soil is rich, and the British side is one settled street from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. The American side, on the contrary, remains almost wholly waste and unimproved, chiefly owin^^ to the lands being in the hands of speculators, who do not offer sufficient encouragement to the poor settler to make improvements. k " ■■^ gp% t-:;:r;r' m0r' 96 111 I ■ '11. 1] ill The country along this river is considered as very heaUhy, being free from those agues and fe- vers which are generally so prevalent in mostrew low countries. If I may give credit to one-half of the stories I have heard related, the country through which I have passed must contain a vast number of rattle- snakes ; yet I have now travelled upwards of five hundred miles, a greater part of which was through a new and unsettled country, and frequently on foot for ten miles together, when hunting in the woods, yet I have seen but two snakes, neither of which were of the rattle kind. As it is now the middle of summer, when they might be ex- pected to be most numerous, I must conclude they are not so plentiful as they are generally reported to be. Fort Erie, which is situated at the outlet of the lake, contains a small garrison of twenty-tight men, who, at present, are employed in building new works. The Americans have no fort or gar- rison on their side, although there is a most com- manding situation for that purpose. This fort lies in latitude 42. 53. N. and 78. 59. W. Fort Erie Village contains about thirty houses in the vicinity of the garrison, the inhabitants of whi( h have mostly emigrated from Pennsylvania. You here observe the same open and avowed par- liality for the United States which 1 have noticed 1 by ht Mi..J iiiii .^3i#-. d7 in every place I was at in Upper Canada. You will perhaps be surprised at a little anecdote I shall relate which actually took place but a few days ago, in the presence and hearing of the officers and soldiers of the garrison. It seems, the British had occasion to move two heavy pieces of cannon, mounted on carriages in front of the fort ; but, by some strange accident, one of them was pointed direcdy towards Buffaloe, an American settlement. One of our citizens happening to be there in the course of the day, and being, perhaps, prompted by the same laudable curiosity which induced his royal majesty to peep into the bung-hole of an empty hogshead, when on a visit to Whit- bread's brewery, likewise peeped into the muz- zie of the gun ; but not satisfied, he went to the other end and took her level, when, behold, she was found to be pointed directly against his settlement. He immediately saluted the king, his officers and soldiers with all the scurrilous language he was capable of, concluding with a bitter curse that he would return the next day with a party of choice fellows, and, if he found the gun in the same position, he would hang every mother's son of them, without judge or jury. We found three British schooners lying here waiting for salt, one of which was bound for Presque Isle. I engaged our passage on board of her ; but, as she was afterwards detained several VOL. I. N •V); *"■*' "sl^W^*-"" i ! 98 days with head winds, I spent my time most agree- ably, being continually engaged in my favourite amusement of fishing. This place affords a great variety of fine, large and delicious fish, such as pike, pickerel, musconenja and cat fish, weighing from twenty to forty pounds ; and while, rock and black bass, weighhig from one to three pounds each ; besides a variety of smaller and less valuable fish. In two hours I have taken a hundred weight with a hook and line. The greatest difficulty I found was in procuring a regular supply of bait, which is small minnows, sometimes so plentiful that you may obtain a supply in five minutes, and at other times so scarce that you may search an hour with- out obtaining a handful. The cat fish here ap- pear to be of a different species from those caught in the ponds and waters in the vicinity of New- York, having none of the sharp homs which make those so dangerous to handle. I have eat them both fresh and salted, and cannot compare them to any thing but cod fish, except that the cat fish is much the fattest of the two. The best fishing ground is directly under the American shore, where I have been much amused while walking along the beach, and seeing a herd of little Indians collected together, every one or two hundred }'ards, lor the purpose of fishing, and generally so successful that each had a burthen to carry to the family wigwam. nost agree- y favourite rds a great ich as pike, jhing from : and black inds each ; uable fish, weight with y I found >ait, which ul that you id at other hour with- 1 here ap- Dse caught r of New- hich make eat them re them to cat fish is under the ;h amused ng a herd ry one or ihing, and jurthen to 99 Ahhough I generally prefer fishing to shooting, yet L.'s success one day induced me to pass over to the Canada shore for the purpose of shooting black squirrels. I have often seen flocks of black birds on a tree, but never before flocks of squir- rels ! You are perhaps surprised at my assertion, but I repeat it, they were literally in small flocks upon the trees ; on some we found ten, twelve and fifteen, and L. even killed five of them at one shot. Indeed, it was hardly necessary to shoot them, as you would frequently find three or four upon a little bush not more than twelve or fifteen feet in height. We shot one hundred and eighty-seven in less than three hours. They were exceedingly fat, and as they made such delicious sea pies, we took care to have a good stock provided for sea stores. The boys from the village hunt them with sticks and clubs ; but generally let them lie where they chance to knock them down, as the inhabit- ants are surfeited with the too frequent repetition of the dish. Encouragement is however held out for their destruction, as they commit great havoc in the com fields. It is somewhat singular that on the American side, you may range a day through the woods, and scarcely pick up half a dozen of these animal^s, while there are such innu- merable flocks on the opposite shore ; an evident sign, I think, that the present multitudes, from some cause or other, have migrated from the inte- rior of the north-west, until their farthe. progress i%\. '.U.''f»!*Wiv«4»»«.-* 2i>i," 5ga _:v..j^ mm^ - •' ( •I' Ml 100 south-eastwardly was arrested by the broad and rapid stream of Niagara. Fort Erie is a port of entry for the British do- minions on this side of the lake, and Buffaloe Creek has been established for the same purpose on the American side. The current of the river at this place 3 s strong that it is impossible for a vessel to sail . of port with any thing short of a four knot breeze ; and, if one-half mile lower, she wiU require even a stronger one to stem the current. Vessels fre- qucntly lie wind-bound here for a week or two to- gether ; whereas, if they were only one mile ad- vanced into the lake, out of the draught of the outlet, they might make an exper^itious voyage. On the American side I have oh -rved they use a yoke of oxen for towing the boats up along shore. Buffaloe is a small village situated on Buffaloe Creek, about three miles after you pass the out- let of Lake Erie, on your left hand side. I was present at the annual distribution of the presents to the six nations of Indians, most of whom now live within the British territo- ries. There were about five hundred assembled together on this occasion, some of whom were painted and feathered off fine enough. They had likewise a council meeting, for the purpose of re- ceiving and considering certain overtures that had been made to them by some hostile Indians, '' to broad and British do- i Buffaloe le purpo^ lace i V. to sail . .. ' ot breeze ; juire even essels fre- or two to- mile ad- ?ht of the IS voyage. they use up along I Buffaloe s the out- side. I n of *e ns, most ih territo- ssembled om were Phey had 3se of re- i that had ians, " to m " take up the tomahawk against the United States •" but they wisely determined to remain neuter in case of hostilities between America and Englanci, After their busmess was setUed, they formed themselves into parties at ball-playing, aod run- mng races for prizes given by the State. Their manner of ball.playing is very similar to what you have seen by the name of hurley; but, instead ,f the curved hickory used on that occasion, they have a long curved racket, strung with deer sinews, with which they can strike the ball to an astonish- mg distance. Whenever the ball was lodged among the crowd of players, you would have sup- posed there was a bloody battle going on as eveiy one struck pell-mell together wfdi their lockets not m the least heeding whom he knock- ed on the head; but, whenever a lucky stroke drove the bal near to the goal, you would have thought he 1 Itself had broke loose, for such a hideous yell and screaming was instantly set upas baffles all my attempts at a description X was much amused by the pride and gallantry displayed by one of the victors on receiving asT prize, a light calico shirt. As soon as he recei ved It he put it on, and, after viewing himself for a moment, sO-utted through the crowd to display his finely. In a k^ minutes he returned to a circle of women, when he pulled off his prize and put It upon one of the lady squaws, who soon ex- penenced th^ value of this mark of distinction by i^r^^^f-^"- 102 attracting the admiration of some, and exciting the envy of more^ among the crowd of females around her. There is a very good ferry kept on the Ameri- can side of the river, which is within the reserva- tion tract intended for a garrison, should occasion require it. The Seneca Indians, in their treaty with the State of New- York, have secured the privilege of a free ferry across this river whenever they please. I am just notified that the wind is fair, and the captam waiting for me, in order to get under way. My next will be from Presque Isle across Lake Erie ; or, if no immediate opportunity of convey- ance should offer, more probably from the head waters of the celebrated Ohio. Till when farewell. Yours, C. S. si* ■'-.i^'^"^" xciting the les around he Ameri- le reserva- d occasion ;heir treaty ecured the ■ whenever ir, and the under way. :ross Lake of convey- n the head n farewell. C. S. 103 LETTER X. Pennsylvania, Fort Le Beauf, August 25, 1807. Dear Friend, _ YOU will perceive from the date of my letter that I have at length arrrived at one of the head waters of the Ohio. But. before I say any thing m advance, ,t is necessary you should know the particulars of my voyage to this pUce. We embarked on the twentieth instant on board of the British schooner Dover, Cant' H bound for Presque Isle, and, havhg a fair wind' the wmd died away, and afterwarfs set in a head and continued so for the remainder of our voyaee' We we,, within fifteen miles of our destinatiS; when the wind increased to such a gale as render, ed It necessao' for us, in older to secure a har hour, to run over to the Canada shore, and come" to under Cape Aleneau. Uke Erie is perhaps the most dangerous to navigate of all the lakes, afford- •ng no harbours, and almost one continued cni^V |rona,ound shore. Another misfortune is, S the bottom ,5 generally a smooth rocky surface i \\ f ■N" 104 unfit for anchoring; so that, if you are once caught with even a moderate gale upon a lee shore, there is no alternative but to slip your ca- ble and beat off, or suffer shipwreck. After having handed all our sails, we lay too all night under a double reefed fore-sail, and in the nidrhiirg found oursielves, as it were, in the mid- dle of the ocean ; no land was to be seen on either side. Towards evening the wind settled consider- ably, and before dark had abated so much of its vidlencc as enabled us to set all sail. The lake, however, in the mean time, had become so agita- ted' as to give a very disagreeable motion Jo the vessel, which rendered this night even more un- pleasant than the former. I was up long before day-light, looking out for the land, so impatient was I to be ortce more on shore. This pleasure, hoHVever, was denied me during the whole of that day, although towards evening we were close in with the land ; but, about midnight, we received the pleasing intelligence that we had come to an anchor under the town of Presque Isle. The distance of Presque Isle from Fort Erie is ninety miles. Freight is seventy-five cents a bar- rel, merchandise fifty-cents a hundred weight, and a cabin passage four dollars, including board. It lies in latitude 42. 10. N. and 80. 8. W. The land from Fort Erie Ferry, or Black Rock, up to BufflUoe Creek, and from thence to Chau- I -— i.^- 105 are once ipon a lee ,p your ca- lay too all ind in the 1 the mid- n on either I consider- luch of its The lake, e so agita- tion Jo the more un- )ng before ) impatient s pleasure, ole of that re close in ^e received ;ome to an ort Erie is ents a bar- veight, and board. It T • ack Rock, to Chau- taughque, which is sixty miles, appears to be low rich hind, generally reputed healthy ; it then rises suddenly to a great height, and has all the appear- ance of being a rough mountainous country, yet, I was informed, continues in general level and champaign. The whole distanc- between Presque Isle and Le Beauf, with one or two small excep- tions, Ifound a handsome, rich and level tract, and the roads so very miry that, even at this dry season you would suppose you was travelling over some bottom. Chautpughque landing is so called from a seven mile portage communicating with Chautaughque Lake, situated in that comer of our State which joins Pennsylvania, on Lake Erie. This lake dis- charges its waters through the Ccnnewango River into the Alleghany, which meet the waters of Le Beauf and French Creek, at Fort Franklin, about one hundred and ten miles below this. The freight to Chautaughque is the same as to Presque Isle, although thirty-three or four mUes nearer. This is owing to Chautaughque being as yet an en' tire new settlement, having but one house, and no vessels of its own. The time, however, wUl soon arrive when a seven mile portage, over a good road, will draw off all the carrying trade from Presque Isle, where the shortest portage will be fourteen miles. VOL. r. o i..r«3tR*,. iSfe*'- .. r*-'-S*t, ^■'-..J5^^.-'^mm^ 106 The village of Presque Isle is regularly laid out, and contains at present about thirty houses ; its situation is high, pleasant and heulthy, and com- mands an extensive view of the lake and adjacent country ; its chief support at present depends upon the transportation of salt to the head waters of the Ohio. The harbour of Presque Isle is not only large and spacious, with a good depth of water, but also affords good anchoring ground, and complete shelter from wind and sea ; yet, on account of a sand bar which runs across its mouth, no vessel drawing more than four feet water can avail herself of these advantages. They talk, indeed, of opening a channel of sufficient depth to admit vessels draw- ing twelve feet water ; but I am of opinion that, as the general ground swell of the lake beats in from that quarter, unless they can likewise open another for the roll of the sea, their labour will be in vain. Vessels employed in navigating this lake are constantly exposed to the dangers of shipwreck, for the want of good harbours. Even here, at Presque Isle, a vessel comes to an anchor a^ near to the shore as she dare, when flats are sent out to unload her. This is often attended with great de- lays, as it frequently happens that a light sea will prevent these flats from going out for a week to- gether; and oftentimes the vessel is obliged to heave up her anchors and stand out to sea, to ^'>^wm-i-!f-i.' ^ —>'**'" 107 avoid being dashed to pieces on a lee shore. This is the cause, and a very reasonable one too, I think, why freight is higher on this lake than on Lake Ontario. Presque Isle is situated within what is called the " Triangle," being a tract formerly belonging to the State of New-York, but ceded in order to ac- commodate Pennsylvania with a convenient front upon Lake Erie. A certain company, known by the name of the " Population Land Company," have purchased a consideniblc part of this tnict, upon condition of making certain settlements within a limited time. This has not been fulfilled oil their part, on account, as they allege, of " the " United States being involved in a war with the " neighbouring Indians, which prevented the emi- " gration of settlers." In consequence of which a very considerable number of settlers had taken possession of several small tracts of their land, as wild lands of the State, and settled them under the con- ditions specified by a certain act of the legislature, made " for the encouragement of settlers settling " upon the western lands belonging to the State." Many of these poor people, after several years struggling with the difficulties of a frontier settle- ment, had just began to reap the fruits of their well-earned labours, when they found themselves involved in a lawsuit with the Population Compa- ny, who, I am informed, have recovered the claims upon the ground before mentioned. None 108 -V ft I* ilf of the executions have as yet been carried into effect ; and, if I may judge from the spirit and determination of some of the unfortunate sufferers with whom I have conversed, they are determined to defend what they consider as their lawful ac- quisitions with the last drop of their blood. The company are certainly justifiable in esta- Wishing their just claims, yet, considering all cir- cumstances, it would be better to effect some kind of a compromise with the unfortunate settlers, rather than drive them to acts of desperation! This question, like many others of a local nature, has at length become blended with the divided politics of the State, and bids fair to give rise to a little insurrection. At least, it is my humble opinion, that the executions cannot be carried into effect without the shedding of l)lood. There was formerly a considerable garrison kept at Presque Isle, and, if I mistake not, used to be the head-quariers of that gallant old soldier General Anthony Wayne. The fort and other works are now rapidly going to decay, which is not much to be regretted, as they will scarcely ever be occupied again in case of an Indian war. Recollecting that the remains of General Wayne were interred at his particular request under the flag staff belonging to this fort, I was induced one morning to pay it a visit, expecting to find at least a decent, if not a sumptuous monument erected to his deserving memory ; but, alas ! how fleeting a arried into spirit and :e sufferers letermined lawful ac- od. le in esta- ng all cir- ect some te settlers, speration. ;al nature, 2 divided ; rise to a ' humble rried into garrison not, used i soldier nd other tvhich is scarcely lian war. I Wayne nder the iced one 1 at least ected to fleetins: 109 and short-lived is the remembrance of those who have served their country^ so well ! Where is the American who has not heard and admired the deeds and achievements of Wayne in quelling an Indian war, and restoring peace with its ten thou, sand blessmgs to the bleeding fomilies of our fron- tiers ? And where, let me ask, is his countryman whose eye refused a tear to his virtues on hearing of h,s decease? There is none, I believe ; J yet he lies neglected and forgotten ' The general's grave had been once paled in, but time had rotted away the principal part. I replaced It; and should it stand a year, a month, or even for a day, I have performed a duty. At the head of the grave is a small misshapen stone, picked out of the rubbish of the fort, with A. W the initials of the general's name, scratched with J nail ! Not even an epitaph. The wretched little space was yet unoccupied. Could I depart and eave it still a blank ? No my friend I could not ■ but with my penknife, engraved, in rude but le-' gible characters, " shime on my country " The portage from Presque Isle to Fort Le Beauf, or Waterford, as it has lately been named, IS fourteen miles ; carriage at one dollar and fifty cents a barrel, and merchandise at fifty cents a hundred weight. It is probable these rites my - in a short time, be somewhat lower, as a turnpike road over this route will soon be complet d ^ ,. 110 ii n\> when a team will be able to carry twice, or even thrice the weight they do at present. Although I have travelled many hundred miles both in our old and new countries, and seen both rough and disagreeable roads, yet I never saw a bad road before this. What think you of starting at sunrise, at this season of the year, when the days are longest, and making it dark night before you could whip and spur through fourteen miles of mud and mire ? a great part of which is up to vour knees while sitting on the saddle. No doubt you have seen people treading clay for making brick ; had you seen me at the time of my arrival at this place, you would have sworn that man and horse were both brick makers, for both were lite- rally covered at least one-half inch thick with mud from head to foot. I flattered myself, while in this pickle, that two or three dozen plunges in the ri- ver, with all my clothes on, would be the most ex- peditious way of cleansing myself from the mud ; but I was s.idly disappointed when I arrived at Le Beauf, to find it necessary to proceed one mile far- ther to a small lake, as the river or creek was scarcely covered with four inches of water. Here I was under the necessity of borrowing a change of clothing, as my travelling trunk had not yet come on ; nor did I see any thing of the waggon until the next day, when it made its appearance with an additional yoke of oxen. The crippled condition of the waggon convinced me that it had ice, or even ndred miles d seen both never saw a 1 of starting , when the light before 2en miles of :h is up to , No doubt for making f my arrival lat man and h were lite- k. with mud while in this es in the ri- he most ex- tn the mud ; rrived at Le ine mile far- r creek was vater. Here iig a change had not yet the waggon appearance 'he crippled e that it had ni seen hard times ; and, upon inquiry, I found the whole waggon and cargo (by one wheel running over the stump of a tree) had been overset in a deep mud hole. My travelling trunk and portable desk, being on the top of the waggon, were the Jirst which went in ; and, as all the remainder of the loading fell more or less upon them, they were consequently the last taken out. My trunk be- fore this was not so heavy, but, upon an occasion, I could carry it a hundred yards; but, at this time, two teamsters could with difficulty take it from the waggon. Upon examination I found my clothing generally spoiled, my notes and pa- pers defaced and torn, and a small travelling ther- mometer broken in a thousand pieces. My mis- fortunes were great, yet, as " whatever is is right,'' I had no reason to complain. I ordered my things down to the stream, and rolling up my sleeves to the elbows, endeavoured to make the best of so bad a bargain. Tlie teams employed on these roads have gene- rally t^hree yoke of oxen, who can draw no more than six barrels of salt, or other goods in propor- tion, and take from two and a half to three days to perform the route. About two miles before you reach this village you ascend a small eminence which divides the waters of the Ohio from those descending into the lakes ; the country otherwise continuing generally very level. The town of Waterford, which lie's. ! i 112 I t W in latitude 41. 2. N. and 79. 53. W. is laid out on the site of old Fort Le Beauf, the chief part of which still remains, and the block- house occa- sionally is jiised for a chapel. The village con- tains twenty houses, and depends wholly on the salt trade and boat building for its support. The land about this neighbourhood is generally of a strong loam, but the climate has the character of being cold and variable, and subject to very late and early frost. Last night we experienced a very hard one, and this morning its eft'ects were percep- tible in the common destruction of their melons and cucumbers, both in fields and gardens. Seve- ral of the oldest settlers have informed me, that it was no uncommon thing to have severe frosts in the months of May, June, July and August, while their more northern neighbours, along Lake Erie, are wholly exempted from these inconve- niences. This town has neither stone nor lime convenient for building ; but being blessed with abundance of good wood, their houses are built entirely of this material. They likewise build a considerable number of boats, which always find a ready market below. I shall defer giving you a description of the boats made use of on the west- ern waters, until I have a better opportunity of examining them, especially as I am informed I shall find a considerable variety below, not made use of near the head waters. 1 s laid out ief part of jse occa- llage con- ly on the ort. The -ally of a aracter of very late ed a very e percep- ir melons lis. Seve- fie, that it ere frosts August, 3ng Lake inconve- nor lime ised with are built ' build a lys find a ng you a the west- rtunity of formed 1 not made 113 Le Beauf Creek is at present a very smaU sti-eam, and when largest not more than two rods wide. It ,s, however, advantageously situated to collect and receive in its channel the showers which fall on the iieighbouring hills ; so that five or SIX hours of any considerable rain will, in twen- ty-four after, raise the creek to a height of two feet. Advantage is always taken of these partial freshes, and ,f you are ready to start before the waters fall you can always make a good passage. There was' a very handsome fre.h I am informed last week, when the creek rose to four feet, and afforded an excellent opportunity for descending the river- however, as I did not arrive in time for that con-' veyance, i must wait for the next. The sky at preser^t looks somewhat promising, yet, should I be disappomted, and no rain fall within a day or two at forthest, I shall purchase a small skiff, so light that where she will not swim, we can jump out (Indian hke) and carry her over a shoal. L has already so much experience that he can see a rock that stands above the water nearly as far as myself. I shall not, therefore, hesitate to make him my first mate. You shall hear from me again at Pittsburgh. ^ Yours, VOL. I. c. s. 114 LETTER XI. Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, Fort Du Quesne, September 9, 1807. f ) Dear Friend, AFTER a passage of six days I at length arrived at the metropolis and emporium of this western world; but, before I proceed to say any thing of this rising and flourishing little city, I must return to J^e Beauf, and accompany you down the river. As I always consider myself a favourite candi- date for fortune's favour, when no great game is at stake, so it happened at Le Beauf; for on the Saturday night after my last it raintd inces- santly, and on Monday morning the whole little village was in confusion with the preparations made the preceding day for starting off with the first of the flood. There were eight boats in company, the largest of which hud one hundred barrels of salt on board. After leaving the town, and descending Lc Beauf Creek for half a mile, we entered a small »M Quesne, 807. at length Lim of this to say any ittle city, I npany you arite candi- eat game is if; for on lintd inces- whole little ations made I the first of in company, d barrels of cending Le ered a small lis stagnant pool, likewise named Lake Le Beauf, being about two miles in circumlerence ; passing thence through the outlet five miles farther, we en- tered French Creek, which comes in from the left hand side. This stream is about sixty yards wide, and of a very gentle current, except in some few places, where it is obstructed by logs, drift-wood, or sand shallows. From its size and appearance It may with propriety be denominated a river ; yet, it is very shallow, and consequently boats are subject to run aground. When this happens, all hands jump overboard, and, with the united exertions of two or three boats' crews, generally make out to lift and shove a boat over the worst of the shoals. After descending the stream fifty-seven miles we arrived at Meadville, a very thriving and re- spectable village, containing about one hundred and twenty houses, and situated on the left bank of the creek. The country from Fort Le Beauf to Meadville, on either side of the stream, is a rich level tract of land, improving very fast ; and the land immediately around Meadville is a beautiful rich meadow, yielding already great quantities of grain and other produce, as well as considerable droves of excellent cattle for transportation. About half a mile below this town the Cassawa Creek falls into French Creek, and is navigable for I ght craft about ten miles. From Meadville we descended thirty miles, passing a number f,Mrwt= " —- »i: •■<»K 116 of scattered settlements, but no town until we arrived at Franklinville, (Fort Franklin,) situated on the right hand side, at the junction of French Creek and Alleghany River. This little place contains no more than ten houses ; it was a post of consequence during our late Indian wars ; and the block -house and pickets of the old garrison still retain a tolerable appearance. It lies in lati- tude 41. 24. N. and 79. 50. W. Tlie length of French Creek is about one hun- dred rniles, and, throughout the whole of this dis- tance it is bounded on both sides by tracts of low, rich lands, among which are several natural prai- ries, producing a strong luxuriant grass, unob- structed by the growth of a single tree. These tracts, until very lately, have generally been con- sidered as of a light soil ; but experience has shown them to be of the first quality. Here the emigrant may knock up a hut on the day of his arrival, set fire to the grass on the next, and on the third may plough up a field ; his only difiiculty is that of fencing. Although I am of opinion that a tract of half prairie and half wood land must be a most desirable f\cquisition to a new settler, yet I have strong doubts whether a tract of the former, situated from one to five miles from any wood land, from whence all fuel, fencing and building stuff must be drawn, can be so eligible a situation as at first strikes our fancy. until we ituated on )f French ttle place as a post vars; and i garrison is in lati- one hun- f this dis- 'Xs of low, tural prai- ss, unob- ;. These been con- ience has Here the day of his ict, and on ' difficulty >f opinion land must iw settler, let of the I from any icing and I eligible a 111 The Alleghany river is certainly the most beau- tiful stream of water that I have ever seen ; it is as clecir and transparent as the lakes, and its current as gentle as can be^ wished, while its bed is so very little obstructed by shoals that ft may be na- vigated in safety. It is true, when the water is low, you will find here and there a rock lodged in the channel ; but, as it is always necessary to have a pilot on board, when descending with loaded bo'ats, they are so well acquainted with these little obstructions that an accident seldom or ever oc curs. This river takes its rise in Pennsylvania, near the State of New- York, where it passes a short distance into the latter, and returns into the former ; thence running the whole of the remainder of its course through this State, until its junction with the Monongahela at Pittsburgh. It is navigable for a distance of two hundred miles. Another head water of this river takes its rise in Chautaughque Lake, situate in the western ex- tremity of the State of New- York ; thence passing down the Connewango River, falls into the Alle- ghany, about twenty miles after it passes the boun- dary line between the States of New- York and Pennsylvania. This route, as I have before no- ticed, being much the shortest, and aftbrding a much easier portage between the two lakes, will, in the course of a few years, be preferred to that of French Creek and Le Beauf ; but, as at present, ^immmif0'-.--r<^' 118 from the want of hands and boats, it does not in- sure so certain or ready a conveyance ; it is very little frc'ciuented, and its advantages consequently but very little know.i. After leaving Fort Franklin about nine miles, we were shown a large rock, on the left shore of the river, which is known by the name of " Indian's God." I had the curiosity to land, in order to examine the " outlandish marks" which were sitid to be inscribed upon ii; but, upon investi- gation, found they were nothing more than the ac- cidental crevices made by time, which might well enough pass for Arabic or Chaldaic characters with those who could not read their own mother tongue. The Alleghany River, at its junction with French Creek, is about twenty yards wide, and continues gradually to increase as you descend. The junction ol' Toby Creek with the main river takes place from the left hand side, about forty-five miles below Fort Franklin ; it is a handsome stream, about foity yards wide, and navigable for small craft fifty miles. Fifteen miles lower we perceived Sandy Lick Creek coming in from the same side. This stream is somewhat larger than the former, yet not navigable for quite the same dis- tance. Passing thence seven miles, we crossed the mouth of Mahoning Creek. This stream is about fort^ yards wide, falls in from the left hand side, and is also navigable for small craft. Alter having 119 es not in* it is very sequeptly tie miles, eft shore name of ) land, in s" which >n investi- m the ac- iight well cters with 1 mother ion with vide, and descend, (lain river forty-five landsome igable for ower we from the r than the same dis- •ossed the I is about land side, cr having descended eighty-five miles from Fort Franklin, we arrived at the town of Armstrong, situated on the left bank of the river. This, being as yet quite a new settlement, contains no more than twenty houses. The land on both sides of this river, for the whole distance, from the junction of French Creek to this last named town, is a high, rough and mountainous country, and scarcely worth cultiva- tion along the banks of the river. Thisobserva- tion, however, I am informed, does nof hold good after you recede a mile or two from the margin of the river, where the land improves rapidly, both in quality and appearance. Twelve miles below the town of Armstrong, and from the same JJe, the Kiskemanitas River forms its junction with the Alleghany ; it is the largest tributary stream you pass on the main river ; is seventy yards wide at its mouth, and navigable for a distance of one hundred and fifteen miles. The acquisition of this stream is immediately per- ceptible, as the Alleghany now acquires a breadth of about one hundred and fifty yards. Three miles below the Kiskemanitas, and on the opposite side, we were instructed to look out for a small town called Freeport. This town brought to my recol- lection the story of " a country lad coming with " his father to see the town, but could never get a " sight of it for the vast number of houses." So 120 : l! 4 here I could not see the houses for the trees, as tliose intended for the buildings had not yet been cut down. Immediately below this town, and on the siimc side, you pass BufFuloe Creek, whigh is about thirty yards wide, but not navigable. From thence we descended thirty miles more, without meeting with any thing worthy of notice, until we arrived at Pittsburgh, which is reckoned two hun- dred and forty miles from the head waters of Le Beauf. As I write wholly for your amusement, I know you will not be displeased if I entertain you occa- sionally with an account of some of my exploits and achievements, as one of the mighty hunters of the western wilderness ; and, therefore, with beqpming pride, inform you that, on my passage to this place, I shot a bear! yes, sir, I repeat it, I shot a bear! ! and a big one too he was. The particulars are worth re- cording, and are as follows : While we were de- scending the river one of our hands discovered a large bear swimming across the stream ; we exert- ed our utmost force to overtake him before he could reach the shore, which, by dint of hard row- ing, we ettected. The captain and myself stood ready in the bow to fire whenever we thought our- selves sufficiently near for that purpose. I pulled my trigger, but my gun flashed in the pan. The captain then pulled his, and shot the bear dead. Not knowing whether I should ever have anothe*' ~T'.-^i-,# »^ »ir. » ' ' "If.-j^.m .?;"il or roast )me would , laid it on oach near ire became keep them ded stuck >und, with ;r ; while, a knife in : as fast as f forty-two erabundant ow. i descend- ty of shoot- tiful in this n through- II weighing [letimes so 1 difficulty, ing one on ling on the d, if alarm- if disturbed 123 by a dog. 1 found my air gun of great use in shooting this game, for if there were five or six of them. upon one tree, I was always sure of bringing them all down. This river affords fine pike and cat fish ; many of those I Caught weighed thirty pounds and up- wards. There is no great variety of small fish in the main river ; nOr is there much chance of taking any of the larger kind during the day time, unless you troll with a very long line ; but by setting your bait at night in the little bays and eddies, you will generally prove successful. I have been well as- sured that this river produces a fish which, from its resemblance to the alligator, is called the Alle- ghany alligator fish. Those who have seen them assure me they are perfectly harmless, and never exceed eighteen inches or two feet in length. Not- withstimding, during the whole navigation of this river, I was constantly on the look out to get a sight of this fish, yet 1 never succeeded, and, there- fore, am unable either to confirm or deny the ex- istence of this non descript. I have seen very few Indians since I left Lake Erie, excepting a few Sanduskies, who had been at the council meeting held at Buffaloe, and whom I met, as they passed through Presque Isle, on their way home. We likewise passed half a do- zen canoes full belonging to the Cornplanters, a tribe settled on the head waters of the Alle- '^*i^^" '"•>r" 124 I ;,< i ghany, and which, I am told, is the only one that has prohibited the use of spirituous liquors to its members. Whenever an individual breaks through this regulation he is discarded from the tribe, and for ever after deemed infamous. Pittsburgh is most charmingly situated upon a point of land formed by the confluence of the Mo- nongahela and the Alleghany Rivers, which here give rise to the celebrated Ohio. The natural ad- vantages which this place possesses are so great, that it may justly be considered as the metropolis of the western country. It contains between four and five hundred houses, many of which would be called elegant even in the city of New- York. From the best information I could collect, it is supposed to contain at least two thousand five hundred inhabitants, the most of .whom are German and Irish settlers, from various parts of Pennsylvania and Marvland. This town has likewise a number of public buildings, principally built of brick; among which you find a large and convenient gaol, court- house, markel-housc, and four churches. There are probably between sixty and seventy stores, generally well stocked with every kind of goods, and afforded reasonably cheap, considering the dis- tance they have to bring them over land from Philadelphia and Baltimore ; the former, of which place)* is reckoned two hundred and ninety-seven „a~^v^' 'tj," only one us liquors Lial breaks I from the .s. :d upon a f the Mo- hich here latural ad- so great, metropolis between of which of New- Id collect, thousand ^hom are 5 parts of )f public among j1, court- There y stores, >f goods, ; the dis- md from >f which ty-seven 125 miles, and the latter two hundred and eighty.five miles distant. The price of waggon carriage over this distance is five and six dollars a hundred pounds weight. Pittsburgh has likewise a considerable number of factories established already, among which may be enumerated distilleries, brewerie., printing presses, an air furnace, a glass house, and cotton factory ; likewise, smaller establishments for the manufacture of nails, brushes, ropes, copper ware, tin ware and earthen ware, with many others too tedious to mention. A branch of the Penn- sylvania bank has likewise been established here. Pittsburgh appears to be in the " full tide of sue " cessful experiment," and promises fair, within thirty years more, to be the largest inland city in the United States. The climate is nearly similar to that of New- York, being situated in latitude 40. 26. N. and 79. 51. W. and subject to as great and sudden changes of weather. Tlie goods intended for New- Orleans, Ken- tucky and Tennessee markets are principally ship- ped off from this place, although, during the dry season, .which generally prevails in the months of August and September, the waters are so low that a loaded boat cannot descend the river. Those liov/ever, who are accustomed to navigate this river, always make their calculations accordingly, and when they find they will not be enabled to reach Pittsburgh in time, generally order their ■> f 126 I I ■I Pi ■m ! ! » •^' tl r-i ' goods to Wheeling, another town, lying about ninety miles lower down the river, from whence the Wdter is deep enough at all seasons of the year. The town of Pittsburgh is abundantly supplied with fuel, liaving inexhaustible mines of coal in its vicinity, which, from the cheapness of labour, are delivered at the houses for six cents a bushel. It is conjectured that not less than five thousand five hundred chaldron are consumed annually by the town and factories. The first entry into Pitts- burgh is not equally agreeable to every person, as the sulphureous vapour arising from the burning of coal is immediately perceptible ; a few days re- sidence will, hov^^•ver, in a great measure accus- tom yoti to this inconvenience. Ship building is carried on here with considerable spirit ; they have already launched about one dozen brigs and schooners ; at present I see nothing on th*^ stocks Uirger than a hundred feet barge. Boat buidtng^ boaf buying and boat sellings seem to be part of the business of at least one-half of the town. Very few of the boats which come from the rivers above, or are built in this towi. and descend the river, ever return again ; so that there is a constant and increased demand for craft of every descrip- tion. A passage from Le Beauf to this place will cost you two dollars, finding your own provisions. If no opportunity offers you can have a small skiff 127 built in twenty.four hours for five dollars, which will carry two men and baggage, with which you may descend in all imaginable safety. For thirty dollars you may purchase a large skiff or batteau, which will very easily carry twelve thousand weight. The freight from Le Beauf to Pitts- burgh is one dollar a barrel, and merchandise at fifty cents a hundred pounds. The Monongahela River rises in the State of Virginia, at the foot of that ridge known by the name of the Laurel Mountains ; it is navigable for one hundred miles from its mouth at Pitts- burg. The Youghiogany River falls into the Monongahela, about fifeen miles above the town, and is said to be likewise navigable for eighty miles. I was informed that there was a very curious cavern about sixty miles up the Monongahela, known by the name of the Panther's Den. I should have been happy, if I had leisure sufficient, to have visited it, particularly as I could not find any one who could give me a description from their own personal examination ; but, as I have yet some thousands of miles before me, atid the water rapidly falling, I did not think it prudent lo lose time. I have purchased a keel bout com- pletely equipped for my voyage, for which I paid one hundred and thirty dollars. I have issued SHiling, or rather driftinsr orders, for to-moiTow iii I „„._„. :i*sC. "*' f^rietfa, (Fort Barm^ Rear Frier, J, ^r,) Sept. 20, 1807. IN my last I promisi H ♦« • count of the mJJZ^L If T, '" "™ ''^- on these waters anA? n ^"" ""* '« of of cn.f. i„ „^ ,„, ,i J-'- J^te smallest kind Pe^eues. which ^ a , ^. ^nd of """ '*" suflicienUy strone- anri . • "'^'^^no^' but »« sizes, from Sve h„n^ T' ®*"=b«atof pounds weight burthen b1'° '"""'^ "«»'«'"d as the larger tindrfl^ff,^'"'!"''"^ "^ *e sa,„e by either^name Art't """^ '"**«"% known these waters; what til r ""' """* '" "« '" ^-o those ;ou*:Jrsel;T-?rT'"^- Kentucky boats are st .„" fr * «"»J"*»nna;- form, varying i„ si,, frn / ° ^ ""on,. 'eng'h, and LI ^n ,o &"« '' '° '"" ' ' '" -built of stou.sq.^iTl'r" **^- -- sided and ^ofe' i„, Z^Ltt "" *^^ vol. r. ' ^""""^h 'he appearance A •^■^;f?at- ^jrtr'J'''*' ■I if If 130 of old graving scows, excepting that the front part or bow has somtwhut of a rake. The gunwales ai« generally from twelve to twenty, four inches high, and from three to six inches thick ; on the top of these are mortised square joist of three or four feet in length, and four or five inches thick, which are sided up like a house with ordinary boards ; on the top of these studs are secured the foot of each rafter, over which the roof is laid, which likewise answers the purpose of a main and (luarter deck ; they arc steered by a long swing oar of the whole length of the boat, and generally have from one to tliiee hands to manage a boat, having frequent occasion, when heavily loadexl, to use ^heir unwieldy oars, in order to keep nearly in the middle of the river. Some of these floating machines, with a shed roof, bear a very striking resemblance to what you daily see in the streets of Ncw-York, where new houses are building, and generally Renominated a lime- house. New- Orleans boats are built upon the same model as the Kentucky boats, excepting that they '^ are generally much larger and stronger, with an arched roof fore and aft. When I first saw a row of these boats lying high and dry on the shore at Pittsburgh, I really concluded 'hey were de- tached pieces of some large rope- walk which had been carried off bv the freshes from above. The largest boats of this kind will carry four hundred ■M t. ' dfilK^^wfk\f-^ '^^^. ,*,: 131 he front . The twenty - it inches d square 1 four or ; a house ese studs vhich the urpose of ed by a boat, and 3 manage n heavily order to Some of of, bear a lily see in louses are a lime- the same ; that they iger, with lirst saw a 1 the shore ■ were de- which had )ve. The ir hundred and fifty barrels of flour. Keel Ijoats arc very dif- ferent fi om what their name would seem to imply to a strauf^er who has never seen one, especially to an inhabitant of a sea-port, where the name is always applied to siiiling boats, piirticulnrly those kinds that can beat up against a wind. Here, however, it is given to a species of the S(,hen<:c- tady boats, which you will find particularly dc- scribtd in my account of the navigation of the M-ohawk River. The principal diftlrence con- sists in this, that the timbers or knees of these are built upon a small keel, about three inches in depth, and four or five in width ; from which cir- cumstimce they are denominai..d keel boats. I have no douljt but the keel is an additional strength to the boat, as it receives the first shock of any obstruction m the navigation, which other- wise would fall immediately upon the planking ; but at the same time it makes a draft of three inches more water than Schenectady boats of the same size and burthen. These boiUs are generally built from forty to eighty feet in length, and from seven to nine feet in width ; the largest kind re- quire but one hand to steer and two to row, in descending the Ohio, and will carry aljout one hundred barrels of salt ; but, to ascend the stream, they will require at least six or eight hands to make any considerable progress. The last and best kind of boats used on the Ohio and Mississippi is what is called a baige. e%-. I 4 132 You will have a tclemble correct idea of this kind ^vhen you see a ship's longboat, or those used at the feiTy from the city of New- York to Long Island, adding thereto about three times the length and a proportionable depth, their width being ge- nerally between seven and ten feet. These boats are steered by a rudder, and are easily managed while they have any war/ upon them ; but when descending with the force of the current alone, are not so easily twisted and turned as a keel bolt is by her long steering oar. A barge will carry from forty to sixty thousand weight, and requires four hands besides the helmsman to descend the river ; but, to return with a loading, from eight to twelve become necessary. Barges, as well as keel boats, generally carry a moveable mast a-midships, and, whenever the wind will permit, set a square-sail, and some few top-sails. A small fleet of si.^^ or seven of these vessels coming up before a wind at a distance of three or four miles, is equally as pleasing a sight in this countiy, as an equal num- ber of the largest square-rigged vessels entering the harbour of New- York. The prices of the various kinds of boats already described are as follows : Canoes from one to three dollars ; perrogues from five to twenty ; small skiffs from five to ten dollars ; large skiffs or batteaux from twenty to fifty ; arks one dol- Irr a foot in length ; Kentucky and New-Orleims boats from one dollar to one and a half a foot ; keel boats from two and a half to three dollars I 153 b,„ T .u '^"="™'"7 prices for new boats • but from the constan. influx of boats of everv dl' -np„o„ do™ the Monongahela and AlW«„r R.vers whose destination is no farther than Pi ./ burgh, b<.ats may often be had at ven^" du"d a^rnt"fT I '"^' ^'""^ '"rougir::;'":; aecount of the .A^^,„^ of j^is western world I .■us town to Fort M'Intosh is th'Jit Z hndcontn,ues high on both sides' of S hI^T every eonsiden.b,e CoU^ oTT "'* *ese heights are said to be vet exe Lt . T' °' the produce, which is whea^mrh ' ' "'"' We «>» the bottoms, wh h vWd "":".P™«'^- corn. Before I left Pit^b^^'f ? T^ '"' " Navigator," a kind of "t?" or'" H^f' " Moore," for these water; .,'], 1 "r"'°" PWet, but contains a gre L J r?"" '""• cellaneous inform.tinn ^ '^'' =""" ■"'=" b'e to a stranger "' " P"^^"''"'^ -™-'- Fort M'Intosh, or as if So Beaver, is a s„.al vi L; owrf"?" ""^''' houses, lying i„_,He Sta' o vZZl:^''' ""^ "8fc bank of the river. Big b" vT r . °" "'' -'-^'-theo,.iojnst^trthe:tr. M m 134 give, name to the village. This stream furnishes a number of very valuable mill- seats, within the distance of four miles from the river ; and has likewise been said to afford an easy communica- tion by a short portage with Lake Erie ; but, on inquiry, I am informed it can never be used by any thing larger than a canoe. Ten miles lower, on the left side, lies George- town, consisting of fifteen houses, and borders on tht State of Virginia. The character of George- to^vn is not much esteemed by the navigators of the Ohio ; it is particularly pointed out as being inhabited by a set of quarrelsome fellows, amongst whom their chief magistrate is said to be a very prominent character. About two miles below Georgetown you cross the dividing line between the States of Pennsylvania;, and Vir- ginia, on the left hand side of the river; an<^ be- tween the Suites of Pennsylvania and Ohio on the right hand side. Five miles below the line, you arrive at the first post town in the State of Ohio ; it contains two houses, and if it has a name I have forgotten it. This place is on the right hand side of the river. Descending thence twelve miles we arrived at Steubenville, a handsome, flourishing town, situa- ted on the right bank of the river, likewise in the State of Ohio ; it contains about one hundred and thirty houses, has a number of genteel brick buildings, and several stores well stocked witli 135 rumishcs ithin the and has imunica- ; but, on used by George- orders on George- lavigators d out as e fellows, e is said bout two ; dividing and Vir- ; and be- iiio on the line, vou of Ohio; a name I right hand arrived at 3wn, situa- kvise in the uidred and iteel biick icked with every kind of merchandise. Superfine flour was selling here at the same price as at Pittsburgh, which was from three dollars to three and a half a barrel ; Indian com at twenty cents a bushel, and other articles of produce in proportion. Charlestown is also pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, in the State of Virginia, and only seven miles from Steubenville ; it contains about one hundred and ten houses, is a county town, and has a flourishing earthen ware manufactory. Buffaloe Creek is a capital mill stream, and falls hito the Ohio, about three miles below Mingo Bottom, so called from its having been the resi- dence of a tribe of that name, whose chief is celebrated for hi* powers of oratory and his un- meriteC* misfortunes in the Notes on Virginia.* * In the year 1774 a ba«Ie «m fought near the present town of Point Pleasant, at the motnh of (iw. Great Kanawa River, between the united tribes ^ the Shawi«»«« and Min- goes, and a party of the VirgtoK* niMtia. The Indians were completely routed, and sued Ijr « peace Logan (whose family had been most cruelly W&5liered, in cold blood, by a wretch of tlie name of Cre^jup) hitd taken a very active part in the wur, yet scorned to be seen with those who were supplicating for a peace, Lest, however, the smcerity of others should be mistrusted on account of the absence of so distinguished a warrior, he sent the fol- lowing speech to Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Vir- ginia : " I appeal to any white man to say if ever he en»«red " Logan's cabin hungry, and he gave huii not meat ; if aver I 136 II' H % The lands about Charld-Stown are not consider- ed equally good with those in the neighbourhood of Steubenville. Nine miles below Charlestown we passed a little town named Warren, situated on the right bank of the Ohio, and consisting of thirty houses. From hence, having descended ten miles more, we arrived at Wheeling, a town of considera- ble trade and importance on these western waters. It lies hi latitude 40. 5. N. and 80. 34. W. This town is situated on an elevated bank, on the left side of the river, in the State of Virginia, and contains at present about two hundred houses, amongst which are a very considerable number of " he came cold and naked and he clothed him not.. Du- « ring the course of the lust long and bloody war, Logan « remuined idle in his cabin, an advocate for peace. Such « was my love for the whites, that my conntrymen, as they « passed, pointed, and said Loffan ia the friend of the white « men. I had even thought to have lived with you, but « for the injuries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last « spring, in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the " relations of Logan, not sparing even my women and « children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the « veins of any living creature. This called on me for re- « venge. I have sought it : I have killed many : I have « glutted my vengeance. For my country, I rejoice at the " beams of peace ; but do not harbour a thought that minr " is the joy of fear. Logan never felt fear. He will never « turn on his heel to save his life. Who is there to mourn " for Logan ? Not one." 1 I 137 stores, well supplied with every kind of merchan- dise, suitable for the country. It takes away a considerable trade from Pittsburgh, being so situated that vessels may descend from it during the dryest seasons of the year; many of the lower country merchants, therefore, prefer send- ing their goods over land to this place, rather than risk a detention of three or four weeks at Pitts- burgh.' A mail stage arrives at Wheeling regularly twice a week from Philadelphia, and another line continues on to Lexington, the capital of Ken- tucky, so that this town may fairly be considered as within the limits of the old settlements. The land immediately in the vicinity of Wheel- ing is rough and mountainous ; but, at some little distance back, improves very fast. Considerable boat building is likewise carried on at this place ; and, if I may judge from the stock of one man, bear raising must be either an employment of profit or pleasure, as he had no less than five of these monsters, all nearly full grown, chained to as many posts in the front of his house ; and, accord- ing to his own expression, " would rather lose his " child than one of them." This town is reckoned to be about ninety miles distant from Pittsburgh, according to the meanders of the river. Wheel- ing Creek falls into the Ohio about half a mile be- low the town, and aftbrds some excellent mill- VOL. I. 138 »eats. Not far from its mouth is stiU to be seen the remains of the old fort. Seven miles below Wheeling we passed a little deserted village, of six or seven cabins, situated on the right bank of the river, and named Pultney. I could not learn from what cause it had been abandoned, but presume its inhabitants must have been of that class of people denominated Squat- ters, who, not having any title, had been ordered off by the proprietors. From Pultney down to Grave Cif ek, which is eight miles distant, is a fine rich tract of bottom land, on the Virginia shore, said to be worth from ten to fifteen dollars per acre, unimproved ; but, whether it is owing to the high price of the land, or to some other cause, it lias very few settlements upon it. I was informed there were several of those sin- gular and astonishing mounds, which have exci- ted the curiosity of travellers, to be seen near Grave Creek. We had already passed them three or four miles before I was apprized of their vicinity, and I had some inclination to halt and travel up on foot, in order to take a view of them ; but, as I had been told We should find a much greater variety as we descended to Marietta, I did not think it prudent to lose any time. Our pilot, inform- ed me that he had encamped one night, some years ag' , on h largest oi them, and described it as " being about sixty or seventy feet in height, with 159 " the top cut ofF, and overgrown with trees of the " largest size." Seacoal appears to be very abundant throughout this country, and in many places lying so convenient to the river, that you may lay a boat along side of the bank, and shovel it in with very little trouble. After leaving Pultney we passed a considerable number of settlements on both sides of the river, but siiw no more towns until we arrived at Mari- etta, situated on the right side of the river, in the State of Ohio, at a distance below Pittsburgh of about one hundred and eighty miles. This voyage is generally performed in five days, and a passage on board a trading boat will cost two dollars, exclusive of provisions. Freight to this place is one dollar a barrel, and merchandise at fifty cents a hundred pounds weight ; but con- siderably lower when destined for a distance of eight or ten hundred miles. Most people, however, find it cheaper to purchase some kind of a boat, and freight their own goods; while those who travel for improvement or amusement will always prefer having a boat at their own com- mand, to being confined in one of the trading boats, where you can have no will of your own. To those who wish to travel as economical as pos- sible, it will be advisable to take a passage on board boats of the latter description, where the whole voyage to New- Orleans, a distance of two I ^i I 140 thousand two hundred miles, will not cost more than from five to ten dollars. The Ohio, as yet, has not produced us any fish, and, although this may be owing in some measure to a want of industry on our part, yet I am incli- ned to believe it is not so well stocked with fish as it has been represented to be. The river is sub- ject to rise very suddenly in many places, when the current becomes proportionably rapid. Fish generally seek for still water, and as this is only to be found in deep holes, or under projecting points of land, we are not to expect to find many in- the stream. I have seen several dry salted cat fish which weighed twelve and fourteen pounds, and, probably, when first caught, not less than for- ty. I have indeed been assured, by a respectable gentleman, that many are frequently caught which weigh from fifty to ninety pounds. I have seen a few cat fish, buffaloe fish, sun fish, perch, chub, suckers and herrings ; but no sturgeon or pike. The herring, which here take the hook, are exact- ly the same with our long summer herrings, with this difference, that our's never take the hook. The river water is generally used by all the set- tiers on its banks for every culinary as well as ta- ble use. This is a particular hardship to those ac- customed to drink clear water only ; for, although the Ohio is equally well tasted with the best of brook water, yet, at this season, it is thick and turbid, and the thousands of dead squirrels putre- m-' 141 fying on its surface and its shores, contribute very httle to render it more agreeable. The Ohio River, as far as I have seen, is cer- tamly the handsomest stream in our countiy, and contmues, as I am informed, to improve in beauty and size as you descend. The velocity of the current at present is two miles an hour, and in freshes may be rated on an average at no more than three and a half. The stream is at all times smooth and gentle, very little obstructed by sunk- en logs or trees, so that, with keeping one hand to look out, you may glide along twenty and twenty.five miles of a night, in the greatest security. We have already passed t^venty.seven islands, some of which contain upwards of one thousand acres of land ; many, however, lie so low as to be entirely useless, from the frequent inundations oc- casioned by the sudden rise of the river. It is astonishing to what a height the freshes generally rise on this river; and, to you, it will appear difficult to believe that they frequently exceed forty feet of perpendicular height. The lodges of drift wood in the trees on the bunks as likewise the wharf at Marietta, however, fully confirm the truth of this assertion, the latter bemg forty feet in height, and the river at present three feet below its foundation. 14fi m 1 f ' i , ■ In describing my course down the river to this place, I neglected to inform you, that five miles above Marietta, on the right hand side, we passed tlie Little Muskingum River, a considerable stream, which there falls into the Ohio ; and, two miles lower, on the same side, another considera- ble, but smaller, stream, called Duck Creek. Both of these streams liave a neat and handsome bridge across them, of which we had a full view in de- scending the Ohio. The town of Marietta lies on the right bank of the Ohio ; and is handsomely situated on both sides of the Muskingum River. The first im- provements, and consequently the most nume- rous, were made on the upper side ; but the lower being found to be one or two feet higher, consi- derable improvements are likewise making there. Marietta contains about one hundred and eighty houses, amongst which are several that may be considered not only genteel, but even elegant. It is a county town, has a market, printing office, several mercantile stores, and a great variety of mechanics. Ship building is carried on with more spirit than at any other town on the Ohio ; and, notwithstanding the loss of two fine ships on the falls last year, there are now on the stocks three ships of about three hundred tons burthen each, and two large brigs, besides smaller craft. The former will be ready to descend the river with the earliest spring freshes, ^vhen they will be loaded .s t^n- i'ii '3 4 143 with the p! luce of the counti v, ai ady »o con- vey it to the the most distant ot the globe. The price for ship building he is fitty dollars i ton, rigged and equipped compi ly for sea. These vessels arc built r the Musi ingum Ri- ver, which, although at present .ordable, is a very considerable stream, being nearly two hi red yards wide, and naviga!)le for keel boi s oni mn- dred and forty miles. One of its branches is said to communicate, by a portage of seven miles, with the Cayahaga, which empties into Lake Erie, and, when the waters are high, may be navigated to within one mile of each other. Fort Harmar, a post of some consequence in our late Indian wars, was buih on the lower side of the Muskingum ,' it is now gone to ruin, as the increased population of the country has, in a manner, rendered it en- tirely unnecessary. Marietta may be considered as New- England in miniature ; her inhabitants are sober, honest, reli- gious and industrious, while dissipation and irra- tional amusements are not kno\vn in her friendly circles. I think I may venture to say, in propor- tion to her population, there is no town on this side of the mountains, not even excepting Pitts- burgh itself, can rival Marietta in the number of her enterprising and well informed citizens. This town lies in latitude 39. 25. N. and 81. 19. W. the climate is said to be I'ar more temperate and settled than in the same latitude on the coast. 4 •b. ^. ■Q- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^' // / J% l^ ./> 4 b^ i^4^ «. M/ C/. 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^128 m It m 12.2 i ^ lis iio 1.4 18 1.6 V] &m o 7 ^. a ^^ '^i om. Photjographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 f\ iV C Dear Friend* ■;< 'v ,* -• ? '<.» * BEING just returned irom my excursion to examine what is called Ae Indian antiquities of this country, I now devote the evening to your ^amusenientj My notes and observations, such as they are, must furnish the subject- If the small and imperfect samples of ancient fortifications found in our own State have excited so much wonder as to their founders, how much more cause have we for astonishment when view- ing works of such surprising extent and grandeur as those bf the ancients in this part of our coun- try? That a country, which has generally been reputed as buried in the most abject ignorance and barbarism, or but lately peopled by some accidental emigra- tion from that part of Asia which approaches very near to our continent, should produce such monu- m'^'.nts of its antiquity, population, industry , and a competent knowledge of the arts and sciences to i%. ■)-*t:i' 21, 1807> :ursion to quities of g to your i, such as f ancient e excited ow much »en view- grandeur ur coun- n reputed irbarism, I emigra- •hes very h monu- rj , and a ences to M: -/. jRcunjmrts 2. Sertijcircular Ti'hlfs 3. OvalMoHftds 4. Oval aiid Circular raised 3£(yiaitls 6. Burial Ground 6. Srnallext elevatfd St/uare 7. -Larffest elevated S^ttare 8. Jilevatpd Square ■f> Parajfett and uMinJid /'J/ovi-mA- .uiilfi. A;-u;ii/i , ^^9^^^^F^mmmmmmKm »»• >' ^■?,.- •*»■ «•.» .j" .4*' :'^*", i;**;^ ,:iisi.4-j,t,-,. . 147 plan and execute such mighty works as these, concerning which the traditions of the aborigines of this country does not retain even the smallest remembrance of the founders, is, if possible, mort astonishing still, and seems to argue a degree of antiquity which few are willing to allow. These works or fortifications, which enclose an area of about seventy acres, are within the town plot of Marietta, and are situated on the eastern bank of the Muskingum, about half a mile from the River Ohio, upon a second elevated plain, entirely out of the reach of the annual floods, which some- times inundate a great part of the adjacent coun- try. They consist of walls, ramparts and mounds of earth of astonishing magnitude and extent ; some of a circular and semicircular form, and others in squares and straight lines. But, to be more particular, take my notes as they occurred. After ascending the second elevated bank, and advancing about seventy or eighty paces,* I entered at the south end through a large opening at the angle of two walls or ramparts about five feet in height ; the one on the right hand extending to the north-east about one hundred and sixty-two paces; and the other, on the left, extending to the north-west about five hundred and sixty paces in length. These walls appear to be in a more ' * Not geometrical paces. 148 ruinous state than the others; but from M'hat cause I am unable to say. One hundred and fifty paces north of the en- trance before mentioned, are two ruinous walls, portions of concentric circles, having their convexi- ties towards the south-east, each beii.g one hun- dred and fifty -two paces in length. About twenty.five paces farther to the north, west, commences the bank or wall which sur- rounds the great mound, being about breast high, in the inside of which is a trench or ditch from' three to five feet deep, and about five or six paces wide. The great mound, which is in the centre, is of a pyramidical form, about thirty feet in height, one hundred and forty-two paces in cir- cumference, and, at the north-west end, has a passage or entrance-way of eight paces wide. One hundred paces to the north-west of the gateway of the great mound there is a smaller mound of an oval form. After leaving this little mound about the same distance, and still in the san\e direction, I entered the southern extremity of what is called the Little Fort, being a parallelogram of five hundred and thirty paces in length, and three hundred and seventy in breadth, its longest sides extending to the north-west, and lying parallel to the river. This fort has three entrances or gateways on each side ; one in the middle, and one at each corner ; each of the corner passages is covered or delend- :^%" 149 ed by a small elevated mound, and the ml,I,ll. gates by two. The vralls or ram^rts are' "^ mm five to eight feet in heigh.fand ap^Tbe n a tolerable state of preservation. A small dis tanee to tl,e west end, and on the outside of th " on, towards , he margin of what .:::^VrLet he nver ,s the spot which has been designatrdl the bunal grcmd of the ancients. -h-weit. rtam r^:; r?- *' area and fifty paces in length anH fi„ u d-d and ten in b,.adth. havi^'thl p ^ '"o" gateways on each side ; but that on the ^T ! or river side, is somewhat thelarl, The "n ' are genen.l,y from five to nine fe«„hSt"»d fourteen paces in thickness at the bottom^ Cm 'he large gateway, and at another on the r ver id" of the wall, are two covert wavs l^»H- ;he river, about one hundred arforynleT* ■n length. I„ ,he inside of the n.idl , ^ '" the south-west wall or ..mp ,^ .f ™^^ °'' and elevated squa<^ mound ex 1 '"' "T'"' the sides of the fort sZl ' "'^"<^"S P»allel to -h.vest, fortySrStlS^^ and about eight and a half feet i„ hdgh 'h, ' hkewtse abutments at the centre of each s de I -ng gentle ascents to the top, excep^nSel: M , «i^)tev f r i!t! OT I I 150 nearest to the wall, which has a covered way four paces wide, extending inward a few paces, when it likewise affords anodier passage to the summit. At the easternmost comer, on the right, there is another mound of the same figure and form as tlie last, although not so large, being no more than forty.four paces in length, twenty-twc in breadth, and about five feet in height. This mound, from some unknown cause or other, appears in a far less perfect state than the former. At the southern- most corner, on the left, is a narrow, and some- thing of a half-moon formed parapet, ab(jut the same height, and eighty paces in extent, with a mound at the centre, which evidently appears to have been intended to defend the gate at that cor- ner. At the westernmost comer there is another of the aforementioned mounds, with abutments at each side, affording an easy passage to the summit ; this one is about nine feet in height, seventy-six paces in length, and fifty-four in breadth. Exclu- sive of the works just mentioned, there are many smaller mounds and excavations, without the limits of the walls or ramparts ; but in general so trifling and imperfect, when compared with what I have already described, as not to be deser- ving of notice. There seems to be a considerable diversity of opinion among those who have examined these works, respecting the original intention or design for which they were erected by ihe founders ; for •■: f 151 while some, and among those several military cha- racters, who ought to be able to form a competent judgment, have pronounced them places of warlike defence ; others have insisted that they were the mere towns of some peaceable people, and that the elevations which have been mistaken for forts and ramparts, were nothing more than the site of their temples, and the walls of their gardens ; and the elevated mounds, the sepulchres of their dead, or high places of sacrifice ! I have already had occasion to acknowledge my ignorance of the art of fortification ; I shall not, therefore, speak decidedly on this question, yet free- ly confess that I lean to the former opinion. The principal reason which has inclined me to this, is that of the two passages or covert ways already mentioned, which, by a gradual descent, lead from the principal fort to the lower grounds towards the Muskingum River. These, at this time, in consequence of the accumulation of soil and retro- cession of the water, are now three hundred paces distant ; but, in all probability, the river flowed at the foot of these passages at the time of erecting the fortifications. The angles of all the figures I found corres- ponded nearly with the four cardinal points of the compass, particularly those on the north and south ; those to the east and west had considerably more variation. The works, when viewed collectively . t^>-' ' - ' ' It f i.-yfc. . .. ^j ^wy*— * -*■». — ^ -^^ 152 from the southern extremity, have the appearance of a triangle, whose two sides, extending from the eye, ai'e equal, and of very considerable length. From a particular examination of the ground, I am clearly of opinion, that the southern extremity of the elevated bank, on which they are situated, was formerly the point of land which divided the Ohio and Muskingum Rivers ; and that the formation and structure of the works were laid out with a particular reference to the ancient point and June- tion of '.he two rivers ; and, in all probability, were calculated to prevent any surprise from that quarter. Although, a't present, these works do not seem calculated to aford that protection from an attack with artillery and musketry, which we might ex- pect from the improved state of the military science of our time; yet, when we consider the different arms made use of in those days, such as bows and arrows for long shot, and stones, javelins, &c. for close quarters, and that the walls and ramparts have, in all probability, lost at least one half of their ori- ginal heig:ht, we shall be of opinion tliat the works were sufficient for all the purposes intended. In- deed, I have not the smallest doubt, were the whole lower plain examined by digging, it would be found to contain great quantities of drift-wood buried by the repeated inundations of former ages ; and thus prove, beyond all doubt, tliat the antiquity 153 ftf these venerable works is even greater than the warmest advocates for this opinion have been wilhng to allow. The passages or spaces in the sides or walls of the ramparts, were probably used as gateways, and guarded accordingly. The mean distance between these gateways is one hundred and sixty-five paces ; consequently the guard stationed at one gate was within hail of him who kept watch at the next. For what particular purpose the eleva- ted mounds or platforms in the Great Fort were intended I am unable to determine, yet think it not unreasonable to suppose, that they may have been raised for the site of some warlike engines, to discharge stones or other missile weapons upon a besieging enemy. What strengthens this opi- nion IS, that each of these mounds commands ^ principal passage to the fort, and the largest one overlooks that which opens to the Muskingum, from which' the covert ways extend to the'low grounds, where, as I have before observed, the river formerly flowed. If, therefore, these works, after a lapse of so many ages, still evince such evi- dent sigis of skill and design in their founders, it is but reasonable to suj^pose, that when they were first erected, they were even more perfect, and that they may have been surrounded with pickets, pali- sades, and other temporary works, which, being VOL. I. U - ! ~- t N i m 154 of a more perishable nature, have entirely disap- peared. Works of a similar kind, although less com- plete and extensive, have been discovered in va- rious parts of our country, from the banks of Lake Ontario, and the waters of the Unadilla, in the State of New- York, to those of the Mississippi, in the Territory of Louisiana. The State of Ohio, particularly, abounds with them. The works of Marietta, although astonishingly large, are said to be much less than those which have been found in the interior, some of which enclose an area of six hundred acres, with the walls and ramparts proportionably large. Smaller specimens of these wonks are found at Grave Creek, above Marietta, and at Galliopolis, below; while those of larger dimensions are on the waters of the Sciota and Miami Rivers. There is one thing worth;- of remark with re- spect to che structure of these works, which is, that excepting the small ditch, already mentioned to surround the great mound, no other ditch or ravin is to be found throughout the whole extent of these immense works ; and, as ihey are situated upon a natural plain, it is evident that the whole of the ground necessary for the elevation of the walls, mounds and ramparts must have either been brought from a distance, or taken up regu- larly from the whole surface of the plain. The few excavations which arc found would have af- ■?-'•» m forded too trifling a quantity of earth to be taken into consideration; and these, no doubt, were made ibr the purpose of procuring water, but have since been washed full of earth by the rains. I have been informed, that in digging in some parts of the fort to a depth of live feet, large bo- dies of trees, with fragments of earthen ware, pieces of copper of a semicircular form, and some small beads, and ornaments of the same metal, have been found. This proves that the ancient floor of the fort was considerably lower thai> it is at present ; and that an accretion of soil, from the decomposition of trees, and other vegetable mat. ter, has added a layer of several feet in thickness over the floor or bottom of the fort. On another occasion I learnt, that in digging wells on the lower plain, frequent and indubi- table proofs of former habitation^ are found, and particularly on one occasion, about five or six feet below the surface, a hearth of stone, with frag- ments of seacoal, was discovered. Seacoal is foujid in abundance up the Muskingum River, and a fragment, therefore, might easily have been brought here by the natives of that day. But still I am of opinion, that if such a hearth, in such a situation, has really been found, it cannot be the doings of those who erected the works on the upper plain ; but of one of some nation who succeeded them, after a lapse of many Intervening ages, as the whole lower plain must have been formed since ■( II. !^5 156 tliat period. Another difficulty likewise strikes me as Ibrming an insurmountiible objection to the idea that this lower plain has ever been a perma- nent settlement. It is now well known that the beds of the Ohio and Mississippi, like all other large rivers, are continually wearing away by the violence of the freshes, to which they are so often subject. From this fact a natural inference is, that at some remote period, the bed of the river may have been live feet higher than it is at present, and consequently the general level of the river elevated in the same degree. Thtrelbre, as the /leart/iwas discovered five feet below the present surface of the plain, the situation must have been in all re- spects similar to one ten feet lower than the pre- sent banks of the river, consequently unfit for any thing more than a temporary iiabitation during the lowest stages of the water. Indeed it is not un- common for a fresh to swell the river, even at this day, to such a degree as to inundate the town of Marietta with two feet of uater ; and, were the banks five feet lower, (the dejjth the /learth is said to ha^ e been found,) the town would be uninha- bitable the greatest ^^art of the year. Some years ago a number of gentlemen deter- mined to open the great mound, in order to ascer- tain, by an examination of its contents, the use for which it was erected. After much labour, tiiey at length discovered the bones of a person neatly covered over with flat stones, of the same kind as :■*. * 157 those now found in the bed of the river, from which, in all probability, they were taken. No- thing further was discovered ; but, in order to preserve the work for a more succvmiul attempt the mound was closed up as before ; since which It has remained untouched. ^ Some of the smaller mounds in the interior have been opened and examined, and, from the circumstance of human bones bein^c lound, have been considered as the sepulchres of the ancient inhabitants. In most of these the bones ap- peared to have been laid together promiscuously; yet in some few, towards the summit, a numk skeleton has been found, generally accompanied with some warlike weapon, such as stone arrow, heads, and a kind of battle axe of the same mate- rial, together with pieces of earthen ware, intended no doubt as the monuments of some favourite chiefs. It does not appear that any thing but ornaments, arms, and fragments of earthen urns, have as yet been found in any of the examinations which have taken place, which is somewhat surjjrising as we cannot have a doubt but tools of some kind were necessary in the construction of such works' and that the fragments of some, at least, have been' buried. Can this be for the want of j,roper search, or is it owing to the perishable nature of the ma' tenals ? I feel inclined to adopt the latter con. elusion, upon the supposition that they used no- r '1 y' 158 thing but sacks made of skins, and a kind of earthen scoop or plate, the fragments of which arc still found, but are now known under the im- posing title of urns. Although you may suppose this hypothesis to accord but HI with the genius of a people capable of rearing works which not only display a degree of mathematical precision, but, likewise a competent knowledge of the art of pot- tery ; yet, upon reflection, I feel almost confirmed in the opinion. In those early ages, when the arts were less known, and these nations not stationary, it was much easier to procure sacks, which might be used for many other purposes than to build intrenchments ; and they were likewise more con- venient to bci transported, either by land or water, than as many wheel or hand-barrows, or sui;h like modern instruments. The soil, in general, is of a very loose texture, and, therefore, does not requite sharp instruments to remove it : allowing, there, fore, that sacks, of convenient sizes for one or two men to carry, were used instead of our modern barrows, we shall no longer be surprised that " no " tools" of this kind have been discovered. I am likewise informed, that the few ornaments which have been found in these works differ not only in form and figure, but are likewise of supe- rior workmanship to those generally found through- out the country. If this be true, I think it argues strongly that two or more separate and distinct na- tions have, at different periods, inhabited this coun- 159 try ; but that the ancient aborigines, like those of Asia, were more enlightened than their successors of a later period. As to the antiquity of these surprising works, I know of no daUi which may guide us with any de- gree of certjiinty to a conclusion. The only cir- cumstance which has come to my knowledge, and can give room for conjecture, is, that some gentle- men, at the early settlement of this place, had seve- ral of the largest trees cut down in order to ascer- tani their growth, which is readily done by enu- merating the concentric circles found on each. On the largest they counted four hundred and seventy which denoted an equal number of years ; and' from other good evidence, they discovered sigiis of a previous growth, probably of the same extent, which gives a period of nine hundred years. This evidence, however, only goes to show they cannot be less than nine hundred years old ; but how many previous growths of four hundred and se. venty years each may have vegetated aud mould- ered away, remains for each one to determine as his reason, prejudice, or superstition may permit. Yours, C. S. f- )■ h i pi ( '1 1 ^n^^l / ' M^y^^l 160 '\ LETTER XIV. Cincinnati, {Fort JVashington,) October 4, 1 807. Dear Friend, BEFORE I left Marietta I made an excursion in company with L. on the opposite shore, for the purpose of looking after some lands. This excursion was chequered with such a variety of adventure, that I cannnot withhold from you the particulars. It having rained hard during the fore part of the day on which we intended to set out, it . was late in tlu afternoon before we departed from Marietta ; but, being informed that the road was plain, and our object only twelve t liles distant, we set off about five o'clock, expecting to reach our destination before dark.. When we arrived at the ferry we lost near an hour before we could obtain an answer from the opposite shore, \vhen, at last, we were informed that the ferryman had gone a hunting, and they had no one to bring the boat over. We were now under tlie necessity of riding 1 three theg was r the ft being great procee were < were i shortei again. being nogre£ formed discoV( lowing came sc had foil we coul the stui woody 1 examine municat no trace some di (by the i water) tl ado, I til an instan VOL. I. Ttnt^ 161 three miles farther to another ferry, whe,^ we had the good luck to get landed on the other shore It was now sunset ; I therefore felt inclined to stav at the ferry for the night; but my companion, 'not bemg much pleased with the expedition, and in great W to have it ended, prevailed upon me to proceed. We were informed that the inhabitant, were opening and straightening the old road, and - were mstructed to take the new cuts, as being the shortest, and always leading into the old road agam. We accordingly pushed on hard, and it bemg now almost dark, I thought we could be at no great distance from Sharp's inn, who, I was in- formed, lived on this land ; but could neither discover signs of a clearing, nor hear the noise or lowmg of catde. We still rode forward,* until it be came so dark that we could not go off a walk. We had followed the last new cut of the road (which we could yet distinguish from the whiteness of the stumps) until it ended abruptly in a thick woody bottom. Alighting from our horses we cxamnied the wood all around us for the com munication with the old road, but could discover no trace of it ; we then returned on our steps for «ome distance, when I thought I could perceive (by the reflection of the light of a star on some ^V|Uer) the ruts of the old road, so, vvithout more ado, I turned my horse's head that way, when in an instant, I found myself and horse, with mv com- VOL. I. V /•■ %.! 162 I fff panion and his, who was close at my heels, at the bottom of a creek or rivulet, having slid down the steep side of a bank, twelve or fifteen feet in height, without having received any injury whatever. After recovering from our fright, we endeavoured in vain to regain our lost situation, as the steep, ness of the bank rekidered it altogether inipracti- cable. What to do we knew not — to retreat, we could not recover the road — to advance, we knew not where to go — therefoie to stay where we were, up to our horses' knees in water, was our only al- ternative. We continued in this situation, on our horses, an hour at least ; for as we could not get out of the creek, it was to no purpose to dis- mount and s^and in the water, the night being of itself sufficiently cool. The distant how lings of the wolves, in the early part of the evening, did not in the least intimidate us ; but, after an hour or so, we found them becoming such near neighbours, that we began to recollect all the dreadful tales and dis- asters which we had heard upon our travels. Be- ing totally unarmed, L. made out to cut off a good cudgel from the root of a tree projecting from the bank, with which lie occasionally would strike on the bank, or against some fallen tree ; for as we concluded that silence was a mark of cowardice, we took care to make as much noise as we_ could, in order to let the wolves know we were not afraid of them. All this, however, did not prevent some of them from approaching to witliin two or three ever. 163 hundred yards of us, as n€ar as we could judge from the clearness of their horrible yells ; so that I really began to doubt the efficacy of our noise, making, and concluded that some motion of our horses would answer a better purpose ; or that we might as well be drowned as devoured, or even frightened lo death. I had no sooner made this detenr* '.nation than I turned my horse's head up the creek, resolved to follow it as far as was practica- ble. I had proceeded about one hundred yards, and began to flatter myself with a prospect of suc- ceeding, when, in an instant, my horse plunged over head and ears into a deep hole, and before I could well ascertain whether 1 was riding or swim- ming, he had clambered up a gentle ascent, and stopped on the opposite bank of the creek. Although my situation was far from pleasant, being now wet as well as cold, with a pros- pect of spendmg the night in the woods, without even a steel or flint to strike a fue ; yet I ne- ver laughed more heartily than at the scene which ensued. Poor L. who was close behind me, re- collecting that for want of a tight rein he had just before made a perpendicular descent of fifteen feet, was determined to be very cautious in future ; as soon, therefore, as he perceived my horse disappear, he pradently drew back. How- ever, upon hearing that I was safe on the bank, he liad no great inclination to continue in the ■ul "♦* 164 Ih IK: ■5 tfJtek ; yet thffe was no other way of getting out but through the same pool. I must cut him a Jong sticic, with which he xvould sound the hole. He swore there was no bottom. Perhaps it was mud- dy, and his horse might stick fast. Was there no roots or brush M-hich might entangle his horEc's feet ? Could his horse climb the bank ? and a dozen other previous particulars. I finally told hin» I had discovered the road, which soon deter- mined him, and in he plunged. After recovering the bank, we perceived that the wolves had taken a more respectful distance, most probably frightened by the plunging of our horses ; we dismounted and tied them to a tree, and Imving traced a small circuit around them, continued walking until one o'clock^ in order to keep our- selves warm. About this time the moon arose, and gave so much light as to induce us to try to recover the road ; but, after an inefFectaal searc^i all around us, I concluded, that f . we were as wet as ^^c could be, (and I recollected we were in- formed that Sharp lived upon this creek,) the best thing we could do was to descend into the creek once more, and pursue its course imtil we reached his house. We accordingly attempted it, and, after creeping under trees, leaping over logs, and gettmg half a dozen more duckings, discovered a clearing, which soon led to the house, where we arrived about three o'clock in the morning. 166 The chiff topic of conversation at present along the Ohio is Burr's late expedition, and his pend. ing trial. Marietta -.vns what may be styled the head-qUarters in this business ; not that many of its citizens had embarked in his schemes, but rather as forming a kind of centnU point for the preparation and equipment of his flotilla. From every info) mation wLich I have been able to col- lect, this affair still remains enveloped in a cloud of mystery. Thi '. '.Uirr ever seriously meditated a separation of the western states is highly impro- bable; he too well knew the enthusiastic at- tachment of the inhabitants to our present govern- ment. The seizure of ihe Spanish dominions, without the immediate aid of Wilkinson and the army, is equally absurd, as his whole force would not have amounted to more than three hundred men. And, lastly, his intended settlement on the Washita appears equally distant from the real object in view ; for here it is a well known fact, that what little preparations had been made, were more for a military than agricultural expedition. In short, I have conversed with some who were on board the/e«?/, who laugh at the idea of " leaving *' their friends and families, and a healthy country, ^* to JTo and settle a m>amp, in the most unhealthy *' j>m; of all Louisiana !'* /■ W 166 m It li ii « it u H it U *t U « (( ti tt tt The only rational conjecture, and which is the pi-evailing one ia this country, is, " that as the " prospect of an immediate war between the United " States and Spain at that period appeared to be " unavoidable, Burr's primary object was the sei- " zure of Baton Rouge, and afterwards of Mexico, " with the aid and assistance of Wilkinson's army ; " but matters having been mysteriously arranged " with the Spaniards, Burr, notwithstanding, perse. " vered in his plans ; and, had the counsel and 4/ * * * at * at * * * * * * ' « * lit « * " until he was denounced to the government ; and " thereby frustrated a scheme which, had it suc- " ceeded, would probably have secured an empire 167 '• (without endangering our own) to one whose " daring genius and towering ambition at least as " well deserved it as Bo.iaparte, into whose hands " it will probably soon fall." I believe I neglected to inform you, in my last, that since I have navigated the Ohio, I have had the honour of being promoted to a captaincy ; yet such is the case. I shouid scarcely have thought of the circumstance again had not a fellow just now called me mister; for having become familiarized to the appellation of " captain," it appeared some- thing like an attempt to diminish my consequence. In order that you may understand me better, you will recollect that I informed you I had purchased a keel boat at Pittsburgh, and hired two hands, be- sides a passenger who volunteered as a pilot ; con- sequently I became the master; and here the master of every boat, should she even be no larger than a cimoe, is always a '' captain." Cincinnati is four hundred and ninety miles from Pittsburgh ; but, before I proceed to give you an account of that place, it is necessary you should know how I got there. After leaving Marietta we descended eight miles, and arrived at Vienna, a small town, con- taining twelve houses- pleasantly situated on the left side of the Ohio, in the State of Virginia, at the mouth of the Little Kanawa River, which here discharges itself into tiie Ohio. This is a thick * I,' 168 #*' III •• ' and turbid stream, navigable for ten or twelve miles only, and about one hundred and thirty yards wide at its mouth. Immediately opposite is another small settlement, called Bellepre ; and one mile below, is Blannerhasset's Island. This name, I presume, by this time, is quite fami- liar to your ear, as the proprietor was to have been Burr's first admiral in the intended expedition to Mexico. The house being large and spacious, and the grounds laid out with a great deal of taste and elegance, afford a very striking contrast to the rest of the country, which, being still in a state of nature, conspires to render this little elysium the mo5t enphanting spot I ever saw. As it is extremely tedious for me, and must be equally unpro^table for you, to run over a duU list of all the trifling dry creeks we pass, I shall, in future, confine myself to describing such as may be considered of some consequence, re- ferring you to the maps for those of minor im- portiince, the most of which, at present, have not any water, and are generally denominated drt/ creeks. Big Hockhocking River fal's into tlie Ohio twenty -five riiiles b.qjow Marietta, is navigable for abo4t sixty or seventy miles, and is one hundred yard^ wide at its,ninds and )f its im- 1, might expense, When- banks, a ponds ; ift-wood have got ntage of , a canal he river passing ie of 4;he ee them contain. m The compact part of the town at present cpnsists of about twenty.five houses ; and the land ob which it stands has evidently been formed by accu- mulations from each successive flood At present, by some change in the course of the current, it is hst washing away again ; so that, in all probability, in fifty years to come, even the site of Galliopolis will be forgotten. Trees which have been buried for ages, are now seen exposed in every part of the bank, as it daily tumbles into the river. I was in- formed that a very valuable salt spring had lately been discovered, not far from the town; but as I had already taken my departure before I was apprized of this circumstance, I had not an opportunity of examining its strength and quality. There are several Indian mounds to be seen in this neighbourhood ; but as they may be considered as trifling, when compared with those I have already described, I know you will not thank me for the little I can say on the subject. The land on the Virginia shore is much more elevated than that on the Ohio side, and along the river is said to be equally good; but the greatest proportion of bottom land is evidently on the Ohio shore. After leaving Galliopolis, we descended fifty, eight miles, without passing any thing worth noti- cing, except scattering settlements on both sides of the river, till we arrived at the mouth of Big Sandy, River a considerable stream, but not navi- 172 gable. This river falls into the Ohio from the left, is the boundary line between the States of Virginia and Kentucky, and lies in latitude 38. 25. N. and 82. 23. W. I may probably be detained here for a day or two, as I have to procure a new set of hands, the engagement with those I have hitherto had having -xpired. It is therefore likely you may hear from me again before I set off from this place. Yours, C. S. 173 LETTER XV. Newport, Kentucky, October 6, 1807. Dear Friend, f MY last left us, I think, at Big Sandy River, three hundred and thirty mUes from Pittsburgh. Twenty miles below this river we passed the French Grant, which is a tract of twenty thousand acres, in the State of Ohio, granted by Congress for the relief of the French inhabitants of Galliopolis as some indemnifir >ion for the failure of their titles to the land ey first settled on. Most of tiiem, however, have transferred their rights, and fixed themselves on the Mississippi, veiy few having attempted a second settlement on the Ohio. De scending from thence eighteen miles, we arrived at the mouth of the Great Sciota River, which is said to flow through a tract of the richest land in the State of Ohio. The Great Sciota is a very considerable river being about one hundred and eighty yards wide at ; i'\ . "J'^-^^!i'->.-...~*,. 174 its mouth, and navigable for a distance of one hundred and ninety miles ; it likewise affords a very easy communication with Lake Erie, ap- proaching to within three miles of a branch of Simdusky River, which empties into that lake. The waters of this river are said to possess strong petrescent qualities ; and when the stream is low, a variety of specimens of petrefactions may be found in its bed. We had not the good fortune to arrive at such a time ; for although the Ohio continued low, the Great Sciota, from some heavy rains above, was very full, and marked its cur- rent quite across the middle of the Ohio. It lies in latitude 38. 44. N. and 82. 49. W. Chilicothe^ the seat of government for the State of Ohio, is about sixty-six miles from the mouth of this river, and is said to contain about one hundred and fifty houses, many of which are large and elegant buildings. The situation, I am told, is not verj' eligible, on account of thfc low- ness of the ground, which makes it very unhealthy, and subject to periodical fevers. On the right bank of the Ohio, and about a quarter of a mile above the mouth of the Great Sciota, is the site of a small town called Portsmouth ; and on the op- posite side of the same stream, another, named Alexandria, containing eight houses. Both of these towns are quite new settlements, and situa- ted on a narrow strip of rich bottom, of only threer 175 quarters of a mile in depth, behind which the land suddenly rises into hills and mountains. Vangeville is another small town, of half a do- zen houses, situated on the Ohio and Salt Creek, in the State of Kentucky, about twenty-one miles below the Great Sciota. Two or three miles up this Creek arc found some very good salt springs, where some considerable quantities of salt are made. The price at the works is two dollars a bushel of fifty pounds. This creek was perfectly dry at the time of my arrival, nor is it navigable at any time. The salt springs of Vangeville bear no kind of comparison with those of Onondago, either in strength or quality, requiring three hundred gallons of water to make one bushel of inferior salt. They have about two hundred kettles of twenty-five gol Ions each, in constant operation, and when th^ brine is strongest, will Miake about forty bushels in twenty-four hours ; but as the springs are sub- ject to be inundated with every rise of the river, the works are frequently stopped altogether. The land from the Kentucky line, at Big Sandy River, to this place, which is a distance of seven- ty miles, presents a rough and hilly country, as far as can be seen from the river, excepting some small bottoms, alternately found, first on one side and then on the other. I r m -m ''i^^. l y i i^ i m*u i.M * 176 This country appears to be completely over- run vith innumerable quantities of black and grey squirrels. The river, since we left Marietta, has afforded us an abundant supply of these ani' mals, without any trouble on our part, as our boat had continually five or six of them on board, who clambered up the oars in order to rest them' selves. I have counted no less than forty-seven at one time swimming across the river in differ- entdiiections. The shores on each side of the ri ver are literally lined with drowned squirrels ; and I suppose that one third at least of those who take to the river perish in the water. They all ap. psai- to be migrating to the southward. Higher up the river we found them very fat, and they af. forded us maity delicious repasts ; but they have now become too poor to be eatable. Although, in one of my former letters, I descri- bed the navigation of the Ohio to be perfectly safe, yet experience has shewn me it is at least necessa- ry to keep a constant look out. We were about three miles below Salt Lick Creek when our boat drifted very gently against a pointed log or snag, which was barely covered with water. The boat Vas under such moderate wav, that we had not the least idea that she was injured, as she wheeled around and continued her course. I soon, how- ever, perceived the water rising fast over the tim- bers, and at the same time heard a rippling m nois. which I at first supposed was occasioned by the current, but was soon convinced that it pro- cecdcd from the leaking of the boat. I removed some of the baggage, and perceiving the water gushmg in with violence, thrust an old great coat into the hole, and directed my men to make for the shore, where we unloaded, and drew the boat out of the water. On examination we found one of the plank stove through ; but by means of a tbin piece of board and a few nails, we soon covered the fracture, and payed it over with some of the rich mud of the Ohio, which, on this occa- sion, answered all the purposes of tar, without the trouble of boiling. After repairing the boat, and reloading our trumpery, we set forward again, when, just as we turned a short bend in the river, we discovered a bear tliiat had taken to the water, with an intention of crossmg to the opposite side. We immediately manned our oars with all. hands in order to come up with him, but all to no purpose, for as soon as he perceived our intention, he prudently turned about, and recovered the shore he had left be fore we could come within gun shot. We had better luck, however, in the afternoon : seeing a deer make the same attempt, we despatched two hands m our light canoe after him, who, after cut- tmg hun off from th^ shore, and forcing him again VOL. I. » ° -. ^- 'rs ^^Se;.:;^^' 178 to the middle of the river, determined not to shoot him, but give him fair play, and either take him alive or suffer him to escape : after a chase of nearly five miles, they seized him by the horns and dragged him ashore. Eleven miles below Salt Creek I was informed we should pass a town called Adamsburgh, and, ahhough it was noon day when we arrived at the place designated, I could not see any thing like it, unless two solitary huts were intended by our informer. Manchester lies six miles lower; it is situated on the right bank of the river, in the State of Ohio, and contains eighteen houses. Just above this town lies an island, which divides the river into two channels. Finding ourselves nearest to the one on the right shore, we entered that, but it was with the utmost difficulty that we forced our way through it. We all jumped overboard in or- der to lighten the boat, when, by lifting and drag- ging her, and shifting our baggage fore and aft, as occasion required, we succeeded in getting thro'igh. This channel is fast filling up, and the probability is, that in a year or two more it will be altogether impassable. You will naturally inquire why I have said no- thing respecting the trade of the numerous towns already described on the Ohio ? One answer will serve for the whole, viz. they are all too new to attend to any manufactures further than their 179 immediate necessities require, and, therefore only serve us points for transporting the surplus protluce of the adjacent country down the Ohio. This, and boat building, in which all the more considerable towns are engaged, constitutes the whole of their trade. Ten miles below Manchester is likewise said to be a town called Liberty, which, although situated on the bank of the river, cannot be seen 'for want of a few houses. This I am informed will be the case with a number of other towns down the river, where town making has been car- ried on with considerable spirit. There is only one difficulty they have to overcome, in order to ensure success to the whole, viz* half a dozen houses to each town, and half a dozen inhabitants to each house. After passing this intended town of Liberty about two miles, we arrived at Lime- stone, situated on the left bank of the river, in the State of Kentucky, four hundred and twenty miles distant from Pittsburgh. It lies in latitude 38. 36. N. and 83. 38. W. Limestone is said to be the oldest settlement in the State of Kentucky. The town, which con- sists of about eighty houses, is built on a flat in a bend of the river, and commands a pleasing view of the stream both above and below ; and, from the great number of boats of every description ly- ing along the shore, must hove a very considera- ble share of business. Ship building, I was in- r-- ■«1 180 formed, is likewise carried on with much spirit, but I saw nothing of the kind going on while I was there. The river had made very considerable encroa-h- ments upon the town, by washing away the banks; so that in some places there is barely room between the houses and the edge of the bank for a passa. ble road. A year or two more, especially if as- sisted by any extraordinary freshes, will either swal- low up those on the margin of the bank, or oblige their inhabitants to remove them to some more permanent foundation. Lexington, which is the largest tovra in the State of Kentucky, is only sixty.five miles distant from this place ; it is said to be nearly five times as large as Lmiestone, and situated in one of the finest countries in the world. Limestone Creek falls hito the Ohio immediately above the town. I understand that this is sometimes a considerable stream ; but, at present, its bed which is at least six feet above the surface of the river, is perfectly dry. This is the case with most of the creeks which empty into the Ohio although at other times they rush down witli all the appearance of large mid permanent rivers. After leaving Limestone six miles, we came in sight of Charlestown, likewise in the State of Ken- tucky. Tliis place contains about forty houses, l^ 161 and makes a respectable appearance from the river. Twelve ruiles lower we passed the town of Au. gusta, situated on the right bank of the river, in the State of Ohio, and containing about thirty houses. Thirty-seven miles below Augusta, the Little Miami River puts in from the right ;' immediately above which, is the site of a small town called Cohimbia, consisting of about one dozen scattered houses. Seven miles further down stands the town of Cincinnati, the largest town on the Ohio below Pittsburgh, from whence It is distant about four hundred and eighty miles, and lies in latitude 39. 6. N. and 84. 18. W. Cincinnati is handsomely situated on an eleva- ted bank on the right side of the Ohio, and was, until lately, the seat of government for the North- West Territory ; ii contains about three hundred houses, among which are found several very gen- teel buildings ; it has a bank, market-house, print- ing office, and a number of stores well stocked with every kind of merchandise in demand in this country. The markets are well furnished, both as to abundance and variety. Superfine flower is selling at three and a half and four dollars by the single barrel, and other articles are proportionably cheap. Ordinary manufactures they have likewise in plenty ; and the country around, being rich and level, produces all the necessaries of life with but little labour. Fort Washington is situated I \ ,1 /J/ K Ollll l l i U fci 182 immediately at the upper end of the town, and al- though, from the increased population of the coun- try, it is at present useless, yet, in the early settie- ment of this place, it was a post of considerable importance in checking the incursions and ravages of the Indians. Immediately opposite Cincinnati is the entrance of Licking River, a considerable stream, nearly as large as the Alleghany, and navigable for about one hundred miles. On the point formed by the junction of the two streams, is situated the town of Newport, in the State of Kentucky, consisting of about thirty houses. This is likewise a military station, containing at all times a considerable sup- ply of milit^ stores for the convenience of the western country. Here we found two gun boats belonging to the United States, waiting for a fresh to take them over the falls ; they were built at Marietta, and are about the size of large Albany sloops. I first noticed the growth of the cane below the mouth of the Great Sciota River, which lies near the thirty-eighth degree of north latitude. There it was very small, rising to little more than three feet in height ; but, as you descend, you ob- serve it to increase in size and quantity, until the banks of the river become covered with an im- penetrable growth. ■-'-*-i#*i. ■■''i*».ij»«*~^tt,_. Ig3 I shall set cut from this place to-morrow, but intend to make some stay at the Falls of Ohio, from whence you will hear from me again. yours, c. s. t . \' 184 LETTER XVI. Louisvilie, Kentucky, {Falls of Ohio,) October 10, 1807. Dear Friend, AFTER leaving Newport, and descending the nver twenty-four miles, you pass the mouth of the Great Miami River, which falls into the Ohio from th^ right side, near the line which di- vides the State of Ohio from the Indiana Territo- ry. This is a large and rapid river, being nearly two hundred yards wide at its mouth, although it IS said to lose much of its breadth as you ascend towards its source: it is navigable for one hundred and thirty miles. One of its branches approaches within four miles of a branch of the Miami of the Lake; while another, by a portage of seven or eight miles, communicates with the Sandusky River, which likewise empties itself into Lake Erie. The Great Miami, I am informed, becomes somewhat difficult of navigation for the last forty or fifty mUes, the charniel being stony 185 and the current very swift. Forts Washington Ham,hon, St. Clair, Jefibrsbn, GrcnvilJe, Reco! very, Acfeims and Defiance, are u chain of posts commanding a ready communication Ix^tween the Ohio and Lake Erie, by means of the two Mi. amis The rapid increase of population through- out this charming country will, in all probability shortly preclude the necessity of retaining them for the same puqwse. Two miles below the mouth of the Great Miami is the «te of a small town named Lawrenceburgh ; this is only re markable as being the first town and settlement you pass in the Indiana Territory. Descending thence twenty-four miles, we arrived at Big Bone Lhik Creek, in the State of Kentucky. Big Bone Lick is celebrated for the incredibly large bones found in its vicinity, which have not only amazed and astonished, but likewise puzzled the learned world. Horns have been found here measuring fifteen feet in length, fifteen inches in Circumference, and M'eighing nearly one hundred pounds; teeth or grinders from five to twelve pounds weight, and other bones in proportion. That this animal, which has been denominated the mammoth, is now extinct, is, I believe, the gene rally received opinion, although, I am informed, the Indians cherish a tradition that he still exists un- known in the west.* * Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes on Virginia, informs us, that several chiefs of the Delaware^ being n-ltod hv a Go. A ' VOL. I. A a f 186 You no doubt recollect the skeleton of one which was exhibited, a few years since in the city of New-York; this, at that time, I thought a monster, yet it was far from being as large as those to which the largest of these bones once belonged. This unwieldy monster has been sup- posed, by competent judges, to have bee*? three or four times as large as the greatest elep' \o vcrnor of Virginia what they knew or had heard respecting this animal, the chief speaker immediately put himself into an oratorical attitude, and with a pomp suited to the supposed elevation of his subject, informed him, that it was a tradition handed down from their fathers, " That in « ancient times a herd of them came to Big Bone Lick, and « began a universal destruction of the bears, deer, elks, « buffaloes, ahd other animals which had been created for « the use of the Indians ; that th :reat Man above, looking « down and seeing this, was so enraged that he seized his " lightning, descended to the earth, seated himself upon « a neighbouring mountain on a rock, on which his seat « and the print of his feet are still to be seen, and hurled «' his bolts among them, until the whole were slaughtered « except the big bull, who presented his forehead, to the « shafts and shook them off as they fell ; but at length « missing one, it wounded him in the side ; whereupon, « springing round, he bounded over Ohio, the Wabash and « the Illinois, and finally over the Great Lakes, where he « is living to this day." Col. Morgan informs us, that upon putting similar queries to a chief of the Iroquois tribe, whom he saw at the Lick, he delivered himself as follows : " After the Great « Spirit first formed the world he made the various « birds and beasts which now inhabit it. He also made 187 . is a graminivorous animal ; whereas this is now sup- posed to have been carnivorous. If so, it surely does not appear to have been well calculated lor an inhabitant of this part of the globe in its pre- sent state. Quere. May they not have lived in the early part of my twenty -seven thousand years, and the species have been destroyed by the general de- luge ? Or is it possible for the bones of any animal, in so exposed a situation, to resist the iron tooth of " man ; but having formed him white., and finding him im- " perfect and ill tempered, he placed him on one side of " the earth, from whence he lately found a passage across " the great water to be a plague to us. As the Great Spirit « was not pleased with this work, he took some black clay, « and made what you call a negro, with a woolly head. " This black man was much better than tlie white man, «' b^t still he did not please the Great Spirit. At last the « Great Spirit, having found a piece of pure red clay, " formed of it tlie red man, perfectly to his mind ; and was « so wel' pleased with him that he placed him on this great " island, separate from the white and black men, and gave " him rules for his conduct. He increased exceedingly, " and was perfectly happy for ages ; but the foolish young " people at length despising his rules, became very wicked. " Inconsequence of this, the Great Spirit created -the great " buffalo, the bones of which you now see before us ; " these made war upon the human species, and de- " stroyed all but a few, who repented, and promised the " Great Spirit to live according to his laws in future ; " whereupon he sent thunder aiid lightning, and destroyed *' the whole race in this spot, two excepted, a male and' " female, which he shut up in yonder mountain, ready to « let loose again, should occasion require." # 188 ume during ao long a period ? Here is indeed an extensive fteld for the speculations of the curious. I have no doubt you would be highly gratified to see it as ably handled as my ingenious calcuia- tion on the destruction of the bed of the river by the Falls of Niagara ! Thirty miles below Big Bone Lick Creek, and on the same side, you perceive the Kentucky Ri- ver, which, after having traversed the State in its widest part, and passing through innumerable tracts of the finest lands, here discharges its waters into the general receiver, the Ohio. This river is one hundred and fifty yards wide, and is navigable for one hundred and sixty miles during a great part of the year , but in dry seasons it is frequent- ly obstructed with sliallows. Immediately at the mouth of Kentucky River, which lies in latitude 38. 39. N. and 85. 2. W. is situatec^ a thriving little town named Port William, consisting at pre- sent of about forty houses. Frankfort, which is' the seat of government, although not the capital of the State, is situated on this river, about sixt}^- five miles from its mouth, and is said to be in a very flourishing condition, containing already about two hundred houses. Several kirge ves- sels have been launched on this river, and de- scended to New. Orleans. Westport is forty-eight miles below Port William, and contains only six houses. I have observed, during my wholecourse down this river, that the land rises and falls alter- ; I •~A. ISO mtely on each side : whenever you see a flat on one side you will always find a corre^onding ele- vation on the opposite shore. In descending- the Ohio River you frequently pass what are here called floating mills ; they are of a very simple construction, and consequently the more valuable in a country so destitute of mill- seats as this. The mill is supported by two large canoes, with the wheel between them; this is moored whenever they can fuid the strongest cur- rent nearest to the shore, by die force of which alone the mill is put into operation. You have seen a razor-grinder wheeling his machine from house to house in the city of New- York—this is exactly the case with the mills I am now descri- bing ; for they are literally floated up and down the stream, wherever a customer calls. Should I ever again attempt farming, it will most probably be m this new country, for I well remember I lost nearly one half of all my time and labour by send- ing to mill; for let me call for whom I would, he was always " gone to the mill." Here, therefore, I may flatter myself with a better prospect of sue cess, in that particular at least, for instead of the farmer's going to niill, the mill eomes to him. After leaving Westport we descended twenty miles, and found ourselves at the head of the Falls of Ohio, before the town of Louisville, six hun-^ dred and thirty miles below Pittsburgh. This town is very handsomely situated oil an ekvated tl il I 190 bank on the left side of the river, ui the State of Kentucky, about eight hundred yards above the commencement of the rapids, and contains one hundred and twenty houses ; it is the county town, and carries on ship and boat- building with consi- derable spirit ; several large vessels have already been built, and the; many advantages which it en- joys in luia respect, over all the towns above the falls, bids fair to give it all the encouragement it can wish. The country around Louisville is perfectly level for some miles, and the elevation of She town commands a beautiful prospect of the smooth and gentle stream above, as well as the rough and foaming billows of die falls below. Louisville has lately been erected into a port of entry and clearance, and lies in latitude 38. 14. N. and 85. 29. W. The river at this place appears to have acquired a breadth of about one mile and a quarter ; and, as the passage of the falls is dangerous to strangers unacquainted with the navigation, tlie court ap- points able and experienced pilots, who conduct you over in safety. Our pilot informed us that he received the same pilotage for a ship of three hundred tons as for a canoe, which you may carry on your shoulder, for, according to the act, " every " boat shall pay two dollars for pilotage." These falls, which may be considered as the only real obstruction in the navigation of the Ohio throughout a distance of nearly eleven hundred )i 191 ^ miles, are occasioned by a bed of solid rocks ex- tending from one side of the river to the other. The water was low when we passed them, and ac- cording to the pilot's account, no more than twen- ty inches of water over them. I have, however, seen too much water roll not to be able to form a reasonable conjecture of the quantity necessary to raise so violent a commotion as is here found, and shall therefore venture to say there could not have been less than three feet, but probably more. You will perhaps be surprised at my stupidity in not sounding the falls on our passage over them. I certainly intended it, but, by beginning too soon, I lost my pole, and before I could procure anotlier, it being entangled under the rowers' oars, we had passed the shoalest part of the fall. When the river is high, I am told, there is not the least appearance of any fall, except that the current is somewhat swifter at this place than or- dinary ; but when low, as at present, nearly two thirds of the breadth of the river may be walked over without wetting your ancle. There are three different passages or shoots over these falls, all depending, however, on the state of the water. The principal is nearest the Indiana shore ; the middle is the next best ; and the third, or Kentucky shoot, is only passable with the larger vessels during the highest stage of the water. Two fine large ships, of two hundred and fifty and three hundred tons burthen, were lying upon the falls as we de- m \i I I 192 H ■i sccndcd the river, having attempted to pass without a sufficient rise of the water ; they had their keels knocked out, and were otherwise con- sklerably damaged. Their 'situations were con- sidered so very precarious that the one which ought to have been worth ten tliousand dollars, was sold at public auction for fifteen hundred only. The descent of these falls appears to have been accurately surveyed, and found to be twenty-two feet and a half in two miles. The legislature of Kentucky have incorporated a company for the purpose of opening a canal from the mouth of Bear Grass Creek, which runs hi front of the town to the foot of the falls below. The ground has been bored, and every way examined for the purpose, and it is considered as practicable. The only difficulty remaining, is that of raising a suffi- cient capital to undertake it. When, therefore, - this is once effected, the only serious obstruction in the navigation of the Ohio will be removed. Immediately opposite Louisville, in the Indiana Territor}% is situated the flourishing little town of JefFersonville, consisting at present of forty houses ; it bids fair to become a place of consi- derable importance. At the foot of the falls, and in the same territory, is another village, of the name of Clarksville, consisting of four or five houses only, and situated a little above the mouth V ! U' 193 of Silver Creek, a small stream which there empties into the Ohio. It may be of some service to you, should you ever take a trip this v^xy, and become a " cap- tain," like myself, that I have attained that honour before you ; for aUhough 1 may not be able to instruct 3-ou what you ought to do, yet my expe. rience will enable me to inform you what you ought not to do. You must never, on any account, advance money to your boatmen. One of my hands, being arrested by a constable for a debt of eight or ten dollars, at the moment we were leaving the shore, I paid the money without the least hesitation, thinking to deduct it from his wages. After descending a mile or two, I observed a fine stream of spring-water on the shore, and expressing a desire to have a keg filled with it, this fellow was ready in an instant ; we accord' ingly landed him, and, after waiting near an hour, and receiving no answer to our repeated alls' I sent our pilot after him ; but the fellow had left the keg at the spring, and escaped to the woods. Another agreed with me at Cincinnati to go the whole voyage down to New-Orleans, or up the Mississippi, as I should think proper, at twenty.five dollars a month. Just as we were ready to start, his wife came down to see him off— She had no money— she might want a little before Josey returned—and, finally, could not I ii vox. I. B b ^ -x ^ ^ ill 194 oblige her with one month's advance, as Josey would probably continue with me three or four months ? I let her have the twenty -five dollars, and the second night after, the rascal ran away ♦ Yours, G. S. I 195 LETTER XVII. ^ Cumberland, Kentucky, October 6, 1807. Dear Friend, AFTER leaving the FaUs of Ohio, and de- scending twenty -five miles, you pass the mouth of Salt River, which enters the Ohio from the left side. This river takes its name from some salt springs, which are now worked, at a considera- ble distance from its mouth. It is about one hundred and thirty yards in breadth, and naviga- ble for a distance of nearly seventy miles. A small town has btely been laid out at its mouth, named West- Point, containing only four houses or cabins. Five miles below Salt River I expected to see the town of Ohiopiomingo, so beautifully described by Winterbotham. I was therefore not a little disappointed to see it rivalled by the one last mei\iioned. I observed that the land on either side to this place continued generally level from the river, yet very few settlements make their appearance '.^s ih. B.J 'I ft 196 in front The greatest population is inland ; con- sequently the greatest improvements have been made there. Thirty miles below West-Point, you pass Blue R.ver which comes in from the right, through M and gentle stream. It is fifty yards in breadth, and navigable for forty miles. It is said, that by removmg some slight obstructions, arising from lodges of trees and driftwood, the navigation may be extended ten or twelve miles further. From Blue River you descend a distance of one hun- dred and twenty miles, without passing either to«™ or streams, excepting a few dry c^s, and now and then a solitary settlement, scarcelV as large as the surface of your boat. Hitherto the landscape has been particularly pleasing, affording a most agreeable variety of hills, valleys, ani mountams on one side of the river or the other but now, they have vanished entirely from the ?.ght, and the horizon arom,d presents nothi,«. ,o your view, but an immense tract of level cham paign country, as far as the eye can discern. ^ After having proceeded about -iiirty ^Ues through , his flat countiy, you pass the mouth o Green R,ver, which falls into the Ohio from the left shore This is a beautiful stream, being abou one hundred and eighty yards in .breadth, navi. . gable fo. one hundred and sixty miles, and pre- »entmg to the eye a far gt^ater degree of tmnspa- 197 i^ncy than the Ohio itself. Its mouth lies in lat. 37 59. N. and long. 37. 13. W. Twenty-two miles below Green River, and likewise in the State of. Kentucky, you arrive at the town of Henderson, or as It IS more commonly called. Red Banks. This village, which contains about forty houses, IS situated on the second bank, about one quarte; . of a mde from the river, owing to the nearest banks being subject to be overflowed with every ordinary rise of the river; which still continues Its breadth of about one mile and a quarter, nither mcreasmg. Green River, befbre mentioned, is no more than seven miles distant from Henderson by land, but owing to an extraordinary bend in the river, it is twenty-five miles by water One evening, a little after sunset, bdow a place called Diamond Island, as we were laHtffng on the shore, we discovered a bear which had just entered the river about one quarter of a mile aboVe us, on the opposite shore, with the intention of crowing over to our side. I have ever been anxious, while on these waters, to shoot at least one of these ani- mals, but have always been disappointed. This I thought a most favourable opportunity ; accord- mgly I took^ a rifle, and proceeded, under cover ot the willows, to the spot where I concluded the current would land him. I soon found myself conveniently posted; and at the moment he - stood stiU to shake him^lf, I fired, and shot ? I 198 ■,# l^im 4own» He, however, rtcovered suffi- ciendy to ascend the bank, and passed me So close, that in a fright I jumped down, with the intention of retreating to the river. But finding he made no pursuit, I reloaded ray piece, followed his trail, which was covered with blood, and found him dead about one hundred yards distant from the place where he passed me. We afterwards fouud the ball had entered in at the breast, and passed out at the left flank. From Henderson, which is the last town on the Ohio, you proceed forty- six miles, when you ar- rive at the mouth of Wabash River. This is a large and beautiful stream of water emptying itself into the Ohio from the right side, and navigable for a distance of two hundred and twenty miles, interrupted, however, by several rapids, among which the two principal are known by the hemes of the second and third Grand Rapids. This river is about two hundred and eighty yards wide at its mouth, and is the largest stream which I have yet seen enter the Ohio. St. Vincent, which is said to be a considerable tovyn, and the seat of govern- ment for the Indiana Territory, is situated about one hundred and fifty miles from the mouth. Some valuable salt springs have been found on this river, as likewise a silver mine ; but few of the silver discoveries made in this country have t^ver paid for the time and trouble lost in exa- mining: them. .A communication with Lake Erie, by means of a short popfcAge from the head waters of the one to the other, is opened through this rivei^: dne of its bra»ichc« communicating M-ith the river St. Tosieph, and another with the eastern, most brarch of the Miami of the Ikkt, From the mouth of the Wal>ash, where thet« is only one settlement, you descend thirty miles, and arrive at Shawanese Town, an old Indian settle- ment on the right side of the river, situated a little above a small stream named Salina Creelt. This town is now wholly abandoned by its ancient pro- prietors, and only occasionally visited by a few ol" them for the purpose of trading with five or six white families, who compose the whole of its set- tlement at present. Considerable quantities of salt are made on the aforementioned creek, and of a very good quality ; the springs belong to the go- vemment, and are leased out to certain contractors, who are hound not to sell the salt higher than half a dollar a bushel at the works. These, therefore, have their private coparinet^, who buy all at the lawful price ; and as the property has then appn. rently changed pwners, they sell none at tlie store- houses for less than two doilari a bushel. About five or six miles below Shawanese Town, and on the opposite shore, you pass some high and curiously shaped rocks, which, at a distance, bear a most striking resemblance to a range of // ii \ aoft forts and batteries, and have very appropriately obtained the name of the Battery Rocks. The face of the country here undergoes, another change; the dull, uniform, and uninterrupted bori- zon, which has tired and fatigued the eye fgi: the last hundred and fifty miles, now rises again on each side of the river alternately, and to me ex- cites far more agreeable sensations, than the ridi plains we have just passed. > After having passed the Battery Rocks, you descend about seven miles further, and arrive at a very curious cavern called The Cave in the Rock, situated oa the right bank of the river, in the Territory of Indiana. . The entrance to this singular excavation is immediately on the margin of the river, the whole of vVhich, at this place, presents a solid mass of perpendicular rocks. The door, or mouth, which is of a semicircular form, is twenty-seven paces in width,' and about three or four and twenty in height, but partly obscured by the foliage of some trees and brush, now growing in front. Its lies twenty or five and twenty feet above the surface of the river at pre- sent ; but when the water is higher, I presume it may be entered in a canoe. After having entered a few yards, you find yourself in a large and spa- cious room, sixty-two paces in length, and almost the same in wid^h, with a projection, something like a bench, nearly all around ; and the ceiling, or roof, which is of an elliptical form, is about 1 201 thJrty feet in height. In many places yoq may observe several rude attempts with chalk or char- 7f M T^ '°'"' ^^"^ "^ ' ^^"^^^ °^ fig"^^' but r could find no resemblance to any thing « in the heavens above, in the earth beneath, or in the waters under th.e earth.- In some few places you may learn the names of former visitors, which tiiey have left inscribed on the rock. I could not help observing what a very convenient situation this would be for a hermit, or for a convent of monks, as it is large enough to accommodate se- veral hundreds of them. From an examination of Ae cave, I have no doubt that it has been the dwelhng of some person or persons, as the marks of the smoke, and likewise some wooden hooks aflfixed to the walls, sufficienUy prove. Formerly' perhaps it was inhabited by Indians; but since with more probability, by a gang of that banditti* headed by Mason and others, who a few years ago mfested this part of the countiy, and commit. ted a great number of robberies and murders Near the centre of the roof you discover an aperture, which is sufficiently large to admit a man, and, at first view, has die appearance of bein^ mtended to carry off the smoke ; but, as I have been informed, leads to another pavem above. I intended to- make some contrivance to ascend to It ; but, in consequence of the storm which blew on shore, and a heavy swell which threatened to VOL. I. e c f i 202 1 I dash our boat to pieces against the rocks, I t^as under the necessity of hastening my depfttturer Had I, however, discovered any thing that pro- mised fimher amusement, I should not have re- garded walking back four or five miles, after having secured the boat in a place of safet}'. Four miles below the cave you pass Hurricane liand, a passage formerly considered as very dan- cerous, but at present has nothing terrific but the Aamc. Twenty-five miles below the island, you come to a public ferry, where one of the princi. pal roads from Kentucky to the Missouri crosses the river ; and five miles flirther, on tlie left side, you arrive at the mouth of Cumberland River, Tltis stream, which is likewise known by its more ancient name of the Shawanese Ri^r, is abottt two hundred and eighty yard* wide, aiul has its soii^ee 4n the Cumberland mountains. It i« navigable for loaded boats of sixty barrels, as fa* as Nashville, which is about sixty miles from its mouth, and still further for smaller craft; but durmgthe drj' season, no large boats can ascend with any thing like a loading. At the mou^h of Cumberland River, which lies in lat. 37. 17. N. long. 88. 7. W., is a small set- tlement called Smith Town, consisting of only five houses. The situation, however, b ex- tremely eligible for further improvement ; for not only are large quantities of cotton, tobacco, and Glhcr produce, annually floated down this stream, 203 IS ex- ; for not jco, and i stream, but likewise most of the boats descending to New Orleans or Natchez, generally make a halt here, either for hands, provisions, boats, or repairs. This little place, contrary to all others which I have seen on these waters, possesses a greatei number of inhabitants, at present, thiui its size would lead us to suppose. It appears to be a kind of inland port, where runaway boys, idle young men, and unemployed boatmen, assemble to engage as hands on board of any boats that may happen to call. , An amusement has already been introduced at this place, which, although excusable in large towns and cities, yet in a new country, "and espe- cially in an infant settlement like this, cannot be too much condemned. You will scarcely believe, that in a place just emerging from the woods, which, although advantageously situated, can pros- per only by dint of industry and care, and where the girdled trees which surround its houses threaten with every storm to crush the whole settlement, — you will scarcely believe, I say, that a billiard- table has been established, which is continually surrounded by common boatmen, just arrived from the Salt Works, St. Louis, or St. Genevieve, who in one hour lose all the hard-earned wages of a two months voyage ! A few miles below Hurricane Island, we were considerably alarmed one evening by the whistling of a rifle-shot, which passed just over i~i*^SSL-' ''''•i*WMI»j6ilMp^i*«ijll(^ 264> 0. IK our heads, after striking the water between us and the shore, which was about four hundred yards distant. We observed three Indians on the banks from whence the shot proceeded, and the boatmen were decidedly of opinion that it was fired at us ; but it was more probably aimed at a deer, which happened at that moment to be on the bank, nearly in a right line with the boat, and, missing its object, it had passed rather too close to us. I had nearly forgotten to mention a singular circumstance which occurred on the river a few miles above this place. Very early in the morn- ing, the men who were on the watch informed me that a large bear was crossing the river just below, and requested permission to take the canoe and give him battle. I consented, and at the same time got up to see the sport. Our two sailors set oft"; but as there happened to be no flint in the rifle, they took my long fowling-piece, which was loaded with buck-shot. They paddled with ail their strength, reserving their fire until they came within ten yards of the bear, who was fast gaining the opposite shore, when one of them fired, but overshot his mark. The boat, all this time, was under such great way, that before they could recover their paddles to check her, she ran along side of the bear, who immediately seized the gunwale of the boat with both paws, and before they could rise up to assail him with their paddles, ft r 205 he overturned the canoe, and made for the shore. One of the men had the presence of mind to dive under water, to avoid being clinched by the bear; the other, with Inore courage than prudeace, fol- lowed him with a paddle, but finding he could not prevent his escape, presently returned to the canoe. I was much diverted with this whimsical bear-hunt, until I discovered that it was likely to be more at my expense than even at that of the disappointed hunters ; as the bear,. in overturning the canoe, had sent my gun to the bottom. The water was not more than five feet deep where this accident happened ; yet we were detained more than two hours before we recovered the gun. I have already informed you, that the naviga- tion of the Ohio is so perfectly safe, as to require no particuk. directions in addition to those given in some of my former letters on this subject. I find it necessary, however, to give you a word or two respecting the fogs and falsity of vision at night, which are so frequently met with on this river, and, although not attended with any parti- cular danger, yet they are often the means of your taking a wrong course, and bewildering yourself among the islands. The Ohio, particularly in the spring, is subject to be covered with fogs, which sometimes remain suspended over the river for three or four hours after sun-rise, during which it is very difficult to know which is the nearest shore, unless previously \ . . I ■/ .1 il •1^ :.»s 9^ acquwntc^ with the old Indian mode of ascertain- ing UiU point. These fogs continue longest, and are moht frequent, on that part of the river lying below Cincijinati a„d the Falls, down to the Mia- aissippi, but higher up are far less troubjcsome. The Ohio, throughout its whole course» (with Tery few exceptions,) is subject to a very strong fcho; and the method to ascertain the proximity of either shore, is to strike the boat with a dub or an axe,, and the echo will be first heard from tht nearest shore. But when in a situation where no echo is R'turncd, or where the water is too deep to be sounded with a pole, or when not provided with a line, tiike a tin cup, and dip up water from you on each side of the boat, and the re sistance of the current, upon one of the trials, will soon satisfy you which way it is setting. The falsity of vision during the night, on the Ohio, is a phenomenon for which I am totally unable to account. The facts, however, as they simply occur, are as follows : Oftentimes, when descending this river in the night, you have an inclination to land ; you generally make for the nearest shore, which to all appearance is not more than thiriy or forty yards distant; yet, after /owing for half an hour, you find yourself, appa. rently no nearer than you were before. At other times you will suppose yourself " in the middle of the river, at least half a mile from either shore ; yet, after ten minutes rowing, you will find your- 207 self all at once ashore. The surest way to be out of ihc reach of this deception, when you do not ' wish to land, is to take the middle of the river, and there observe the reflection of the banks and trees on the water. You will then discover, that the reflection of the trees on either side ex- tend to more than one-third of the general width of the river, whilst between them you will see a clear space like a channel ; and as long as you keep within this space, you are beyond the reach of the magic circle. The price of land along the Ohio, as you will rea- dily suppose, depends on its quality and situation. Good improved bottom lands on the river, sell from two to ten dollars an acre; further back, from two to five doaars ; but rough hilly lands, containing small portions of good land, may be bought in large tracts from one dollar down to fifty cents an acre. t Yoiu^, C. S. KND OF THE FIRST VOLUME -A. -...^.^ ' . 'w»*ajJWr;,_^^