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1 2 3

ADVENTURES

IN THE

WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

CHAELES LANMAN.

EDITED BT

CHAELES EICHABD WELD.

1 ,

LQNDON:
LONGMAN, BROWN,* GREEN, AND LONGMANS.

1854.

269967

CHAPI

CONTENTS.

••• ••• •••

«•• ••• ••• •••

••• •■• ••• ••• •••

*•* !•• ••• ••• •••

••• •••

•«• ••• •••

••■ •••

•»• •••

••• ••• •■• •#'!

••• •••

CHAPTER I — ALPtNE Regiok of the Mississippi
II.— R£i>.wiNo Village
III. — Falls of St. Anthont
IV.— A Ride on Horseback
v.— Crow-wino
VI. — Elk Lake
VII.— Leech Lake
VIII.— Sandy Lake
IX.— The St. Lonis River
X — Recollectiokts of Michigan
XL— Lake Horicon
XII.— The Scaroon Country
XIII.— The Adirondao Mountains
XIV.— John Cheney, the Adironi>ac Hunter
XV. — The Hermit of Aroostook
XVI.— The River St. John

XVII The Female Hermit of the Alleghakies

XVlIL— The F>lls of Tallulah ...
XIX. — The Hunter op Tallulah
XX.— Trail Mountain ...
XXL— The Smoky Mountain
XXIL— The Cherokees of Carolina
XXIIL— Cherokee Customs ...

XXIV Hickory-Nut Gap

XXV.— Down the French Bboad River
XXVI.— Black Mousxaih ...

••• ••• •••

••• •••

••• t*« ••• «•• •••

••* ••• •••

••• •••

•• «■• •••

••• ••• *••

••• ••• ••» •••

••• •••

••• ••• ••• •>•

••* ••• •••

••• ••• ***

Page

• ••

• ■•

16 --^..

• ••

• •t

•«»

102

113

ta*

122

135

#••

139

145

«••

150

«••

155

159 ;l

166 r

• •«

172 , J
177

• ••

183 I

191

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXVII.— The Catawba CocNTKT ..." ...

XXVIII.— The Mountains and theie People ...
XXIX.— The Nameless Valley ...
XXX.— The Canadian Recluse ...

XXXI Death in the Wildeeness

XXXII.— Rattlesnakes
XXXIII.— Salmon Fishing ...

XXXIV Tbout FisniNQ

, {XXXV.— Basse Fishing ...
XXXVI.— Rock Fishing

XXXVII Pike Fishing

XXXVIII.— Fishing in General ...

••• •••

Page
... ... 198

207
••■ *•■ *12

219
226

229

248
257

265

295

Page
. 198

207

212

219

225

229

235

248

257

265

278

295

PEEFACE.

It is due to the Author of the following pages to state, that the
Adventures which we have selected for publication form only a
small portion of those which he has kindly placed in our hands.

In making our selection we have been guided by the space at
our disposal, and by a desire to render our pages at once varied
and interesting.

At the same time it will be seen by the contents of the Second
Part, that we have drawn freely on those piscatorial adventures,
the love for which, Mr. Lanman frankly states, led him into the
wilds of his native country. And we cannot help thinking that
in the present day, when the waters of our small island afford so
inadequate a supply of sport to the rapidly increasing fraternity
of Waltonians. and the Atlantic is so easily crossed, many of our
readers will be glad to be put in possession of the extensive
angling experience, in +he United States and Canada, of so great
an adept in the art as .. Lanman,

In a manuscript prefatorial communication which acccompa-
nies Mr. Lanman's papers, he states, that ^ome years ago he
abandoned a mercantile career in New York, a ud started for the
Western States, more intent on pleasure than fortune-making.
His wanderings, which were performed on foot, on horseback,
and in canoes, led him through the Valley of the Mississippi, the
Basin of the Great Ls,kes, the Valley of the St. Lawrence, and
over the extensive chain of mountains extending from those com-
manding the Bay of Fundy to those which pour their waters into
the Gulf of Mexico.

A portion of these wanderings appeared in American perio-
dicals, and elicited the following warm commendationp from
[Washing^^^on Irving, which are extracted from letters to their
author.

PREFACE.

" I return you thanks for the delightful entertainment which
your summer rambles have afforded me. I do not see that I have
any literary advice to give you, excepting to keep on as you have
begun. You seem to have the happy enjoyable humour of old
Isaac Walton, and I trust you will give us still further scenea
and adventures on our great internal waters, depicted with the
freshness and graphic skill of your present volumes. .•

" In fact, the adventurous life of the angler amidst our wild
scenery, on our vast lakes and rivers, must furnish a striking con-
trast to the quiet loiterings of the English angler along the Trent,
or the Dove, with country milkmaids to sing madrigals to him,
and a snug, decent, country inn at night, where he may sleep
in sheets that have been laid in lavender."

And in a second letter, Mr. Irving says, —

" I am glad to learn that you intend to publish your narrative
and descriptive writings in a collected form. They carry us
into the fastnesses of our mountains, the depths of oiur forests,
the watery wilderness of our lakes and rivers; giving us pictures
of savage life and savage tribes, Indian legends, fishing and hunt-
ing anecdotes, the adventures of trappers and backwoodsmen,
our whole arcanum, in short, of indigenous poetry and romance;
to use a favourite phrase of the old discoverers — * they lay open
the secrets of the country to us.' I cannot but believe your
work will be well received, and meet with the wide circulation
whieh it assuredly merits."

With these high marks of approval on the mine from which
the following adventures are taken, we introduce Mr. Lanman
to the English reader, feeling confident that he will be found an
interesting and instructive companion.

C. R. WELD.

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ADVENTURES

INTUR

WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER I.

ALriNE REGION OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

Lake Pepin.
That portion of the Mississippi wliicli extends from Prairie
Du Chien to Lake Pepin is the most mountainous and truly
beautiful on the whole river, and may with strict propriety be
called the Alpine Region. The river here varies from a quarter
to a fiill mile in width, and on either side throughout the whole
distance is a range of mountains which sometimes actually bend
over the river, and sometimes recede into the interior for several
miles. The Mississippi here is rather sluggish, but perfectly
transparent, and is studded by islands, which are covered
with every variety of forest-trees found between Kentucky and
the Great Lakes. Bat the willow and the elm are pre-eminently
beautiful. Well do I remember with what delight I mused upon
the changing landscape, as our vessel glided onward and onward
into the wild and silent wilderness. The mountains of this
region are not so lofty as the Highlands of the Hudson, (to which
tiiey have been compared,) but they are far more picturesque,
fantastic, and extensive. At one moment may be seen a cone-
shaped mountain rising to the height of some eight hundred feet,
and completely covered, to the summit, with a carpet of grass;
now the eye will linger on a perpendicular bluff, pictured against
the sky, like a fortress of the Mound Builders, and actually &o^m.<

ADVENTURES IK THE WILDS OF NORTH AMEAlCA.

ing upon the softly flowing stream that laves its foliage-hidden
base ; now, you sail in the sliadow of a pillared temple that seems
to prop the sky ; and now, along a continued succession of peaks
and points that fade away, until lost in the rosy atmosphere of
evening. During all this time, your vessel will be gliding around
and between the most charming green islands, some of them con-
taining a solitary grave, others a little brotherhood of Indians,
lounging upon the grassy opening before their wigwams; while
some happy bird will favour you with an occasional song, or the
leap of a trout take the fancy captive, to revel in the cool cham-
bers of the stream. Here it is, too, that the famous Island
Mountain rises to the height of five hundred feet, covered with
trees, and capped by a cluster of broken rocks. It is several
miles long and about one in width, and is the largest island in,
the Mississippi. From time immemorial it has been celebrated
for the number of its rattlesnakes, and on a grassy plot at its
base stands a cluster of graves, where repose the ashes of stranger
Indians, who died upon the island from wounds inflicted by these
reptiles.

The next object that I would attempt to describe on my way
up the Mississippi, is Lake Pepin. It lives in my memory as
the Horicon of the wilderness. It is an extended portion of the
Mississippi, — twenty-three miles long, and from three to four
wide. It is surrounded with hills, which abound in almost every
variety of game ; its shores are gravelly, and covered with the
most valuable agates and cornelians; the water is clear, an4
very deep; and it yields the very best fish in great abundance.
My first view of Lake Pepin (I wish I knew how it came by that
name !) was on one of the most charming evenings that I ever
witnessed. The cloudless sky was studded with stars, and the
moon sailed upward and onward with an uncommon beauty, as
if proud of the wilderness world she was then flooding with her
beams. For hours did I sit musing upon the eastern shore, near
the outlet, whence I could discern no less than sixteen peaks or
bluflTs, looming in solitude against the horizon. " The holy time
was quiet as a nun, breathless with adoration." The water was
without a ripple, and reflected in its pure bosom every star;

ALPINE REGION OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

lidden

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while the moon, as if determined that it should so remain for
ever, spanned it with a bar of gold. The only sounds that
trembled in the air were the hoot of an owl, the waU of a loon,
and a hum from the insect world. I looked and wondered until
the niglit was far spent, and the dew upon my face was heavy
and cold.

It was while tanying at this lake that the captain of our
steamer was honoured by a visit from Wabashaw, the head chief
of the Sioux nation. Ho was attended by several of his coun-
sellors, and in all his movements had the bearing of a proud
prince. He is a young man, and said to be a brave and emi-
nently successful wari'ior. Our captain treated him to wine, and
I gave him a present of tobacco. The captain was so pleased
with the natural curiosity, as he called the chief, that he sum-
moned all his lady passengeini to obtain a glimpse. The ladies
soon made their appearance, and while staring at the ciiief, now
laugliing, and now laying their hands upon his ornaments, a most
ferocious glance all at once shot from his eye, and, uttering a scorn-
ful speech, he bolted from the ring of impudent spectators. The
cause of this singular movement was, that it is considered disgrace-
ful for a Sioux chief to be seen in the company of women, or to be
spoken to and stared upon by them. The only person whose hand
ho would take on going ashore was mine; and when I happened
to meet this chief on a subsequent occasion, he treated me with
marked attention, and presented me with a haiirlsome pipe.

At the time that I visited Lake Pepin there were a number
of Sioux Indians encamped upon its shores. Among the lodges
which I visited was that of a woman, ninety years of age, and a
widow. She looked exceedingly wretched, but was so intelligent
and amiable that I almost fell in love with the old antediluvian.
I cannot give the whole of her long story, but an idea of its cha-
racter may be obtained from the following episode, which I
listened to, seated by her side, and that of her only descendant
— a handsome boy. Her attention had been directed to our
steamer, which lay moored a short distance oflf, when she suddenly
broke out with the following : — " How rapidly does time fly ! A
^ort time ago the light canoe was the only thing that glided

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

Mil

upon this lake ; but now we often hear the groaning of the great
fire-vessel, as it sweeps along iike an angry stag. The white
man^s conduct appears strange, I cannot understand ik, purpose.
0, 1 am an old woman and a fool!

" Many, Ireiy many have been my trials. Thirty years has
my husband been dead. Eight brave sons have I had, but they
were aU killed in battles with the Chippeways. I also had two
daughters, who were like the does of the prairie; but the Great
Spirit has long since taken them to the happy land. My only
relative, now living, is this boy. O, I aia an old woman, and
have no business to live! •'

" But I will not complain. Thel Great Spirit is at my fireside,
and has given me a helper -n the dark eveiiing of my days. This
boy-hunter supplies me with food. His arroW never fails, and the
winds always tell him where to find the sweet fish. He paddles
my canoe, he brings me wood for tay fire, and he sleeps by my
side in our comfortable lodge. O, I am an old woman! — ^but
what is there in the world that I need, and cannot obtain 1**

May the smiles of Providence for ever rest upon this mother
of a great nation, whose glory is personified in her feeble and
decrepit form.

The most romantic legend, howerver, associated with the Mis-
sissippi Horicon is the story of "Winona. She was the daughter
of a chief, and lived about one hundred years ago. Slfe was
exceedingly beautiful and univei-sally beloved. Her father had
promised her hand to a favourite warrior, but her heart had been
pledged to another, not less brave, but more noble and youthful.
For many months she would not listen to the wishes of her
father; — but his sterner nature was roused, and he vowed that
she must marry the object of his choice. "Weeks passed on, and
she knew that she must yield. Kightly did she meet her accepted
lover, but always talked to him of the Spirit Land, as if she had
been a queen of that fantastic realm. The marriage night had
been appointed, and the chief had proclaimed a feast. To all
outward appearance a change suddenly came over the daughter's
mind, and she smiled and talked, like one about to be made a
happy bride. Among the delicacies that were to be eaten on the

ALPINE REGION OF THE SflSSISSIPPI.

the great
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years has
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occasion, was a certain berry that was found in great perfection
upon a certain hill or bluff. It was a pleasant summer afbemoon,
and all the female fiiends of Winona, accompanied by herself,
were picking the desired berries.

Carelessly did they all wander up the hill-side, whUe an occa-
sional laugh would ring upon the air; but Winona was only seen
to smile, for (though those loving fiiends knew it not) her heart
was darkened by many a strange shadow. Carelessly did the
berry-gatherers wander on; when aU at once a low melancholy
song fell upon their ears, and lo ! upon the very edge of a beet-
ling precipice stood the form of the much loved Winona.

Her song was death-like, and when her companions were in-
tuitively convinced of the contemplated deed, they were stupefied
with horror. Winona motioned them to keep back, while her
song increased unfiil it became a perfect wail. The burthen of

it was,

** Farewell, sisters : —
' ' I am going to the Spirit Land ;

^,^ My warrior will come after me,

And we shall be blessed."

•■■4'

One moment more, and Winona, the pride of all the Indian
villages on Lake Pepin, was deeply buried in its clear cold
bosom. And this is the story that hallows the loftiest peak of
this l6,ke. I obtained it, as here related, from one of her kindred,
and I believe it to be true. As to Winona's warrior, it is said
that he lived for many years a hermit, and finally died a mad-
man. So runneth many a song of life. ,

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER II.

I pi

RED WING VILLAGE.

Mouth of the St. Peter's.

The scenery between Lake Pepin and the St. Croix is not
as lofty nor as picturesque as tliat we have already passed, but
its interest is greatly enhanced by the greater number of Indians
that "we here meet. The Red Wing village is nearly midway
between the two lakes mentioned, and contains about six
hundred souls. A short distance from this village are two
isolated mountains, whenco may be seen a most magnificent
panorama of the wilderness, and when viewed at sunset it presents
more the appearance of dream-land than reality. These
mountains from time immemorial have been used as the altars
where Indian war parties have ofieredup their sacrifices, previous
to going to battle. At the present time, however, their only
inhabitants are rattlesnakes, which slumber on their sunny slopes
or in the clefts of the rocks during the long summer. And thus
is it throughout the world, in the wilderness as well as the city,
death and the beautiful are ever linked together in an unbroken
brotherhood.

I only remained at the Red Wing village one night, but such
a night I hope never to pass again. An outcast of a trader had
furnished the Indians with " fire-water," and the whole posse of
them were ravingly mad, for spirituous liquor always makes the
poor Indian miserably crazy. For want of a better place, I had
to sleep in the cabin of this very trader. My bed was on the
floor, while my host and his family occupied a couple of beds in
opposite corners of the only room in the house. And such
horrible yelling and screaming as I heard during the first half of
that night, I can never forget. The noises were unearthly and

BED WINQ VILLAGE.

devilish. Now you might hear the clashing of knives, as some
of the mcf desperate spirits came together in a fight;
and now yon ;jiight hear the sobbings and meanings of a miser-
able woman, as she exposed and mutilated her body, to perpetuate
the memory of a dead husband or child.

But there was one incident which actually made my hair
stand out like the quills of the porcupine. I should premise
that the few white people of the wilderness never think of lock-
ing their doors at night ; and also that the Indians of this region
claim it as a privilege to enter and depart from your cabin when-
ever they please, and their intrusions are always looked upon as
matters of course. It was somewhat after midnight, and the
yeUing of the savages had partly subsided. I had just fallen
into a doze, when I was startled by the stealthy opening of our
cabin door, and the tread of a muffled footstep. It was intensely
dark, but I knew it was an Indian, and thought that somebody
was about to be murdered. The object in the room made just
noise enough to rack my brain, and then was perfectly still. I
listened, and with hardly a particle of breath in my body, — I
still kept listening, — until I actually fainted upon my pillow
from excess of fear. Finally I slept, and my dre?ims were of
blood, and blood only. The first peep of day, however, awakened
me, when lo 1 directly at my side, flat on the floor, was a huge
black Indian, breathing in his deep slumber like a porpoise. The
first intelligence that I heard on going out of the door was, that
one Indian had been killed during the night, and that another
was at that moment in. the agonies of death. As may be sup-
posed, I left the Red Wing village with pleasure.

Lake St. Croix empties into the Mississippi, and its principal
inlet is a river of the same name which rises in the vicinity of
Lake Superior. This is the valley through which the traders and
Indians have been in the habit of passing, for a century past, on
their way from the western prairies to Lake Superior, and from
the lake back again to the prairies. The river is only distin-
guished for one waterfall- of uncommon beauty. The lake is
aboijt twenty-five miles long, from two to five wide, and sur-
rounded with charming scenery. The water ia clear but of a

ADYENTUBES IS THE WILDS OF NOBTH AMERICA.

licli brown colour, and well supplied with fish, of which the trout
19 the most abundant.

At the outlet of this lake, I visited another encampment of
Sioux Indians, where I saw a noted chief, named Little Crow.
He was a handsome man, but both his arms had recently
been broken by a rifle ball, which was sljot by one of his own
brothers, — who was envious of his station as chief. Asa punish-
ment for his wickedness. Little Crow, in return, had ordered four
bullets to be fired at his brother, which of course numbered him
with the dead. I saw his new-made grave, and his youthful
wife wailing over it, like one that was sorrowing without hope.

From St. Croix tp St. Peter's, the banks of the Mississippi
are steep, but only about one hundred t^nd fifty feet in height.
The river is here studded with islands whpse shadowy recesses
are cool during the hottest weather; — and a more delightfiil
region for the botanist to ramble cannot be found elsewhere.
The water is clear as crystal, aud its bosom is generally covered
with water-fowl, from the graceful snow-white swan to the mal-
lard and woodTduck. Isolated Indian wigwams are frequently
seen here, pitched on the margii?. of the stream, and at the foot
of vine-covered precipices. ,

But there are three landscape views connected with this por-
tion of the Mississippi, whioh I thought quite maguificent. I
witnessed them all diu'ing a single afternoon, and in the light of
a mellow sunshine. The first was a rolling prairie, that faded
away to the western sky until its outline was actually lost in
the hazy atmosphere. Not a solitary tree did J. bejiold, but a
sea of grass, that was delightfully relieved with flowers of every
variety of shape and colour. Occasionally a breeze would pass
across the scene, causing unnumbered tiny billows to quiver over
the surface of mightier ones, which seemed to be careering on-
ward to some unknown shore. Covering the foregrouud of this
picture might be seen an immense flock of grouse, feeding, or
chasing each other in sport; and then, an occasional prairie
squirrel as it sat at the entrance of its hole ; while in the middle
distance, a robber wolf glided over one of the ridges of the
prairie, with his form pictured against the sky. The lone,' lost

RED WING VILLAGE.,

;he trout

pment of

le Crow.

recently

his own

< punisli-

ered four

eredhhn

youthful

5ut hope.

[ississippi

in height.

y recesses

delightfiil

elsewhere.

y covered

) the mal-

requently

t the foot

this por-
ificent. I
le light of
that faded
lly lost in
lold, but a
\ of every
rovld pass
uiver over
Bering on-
nd of this
ceding, or
al prairie
he middle
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lone/ lost

feeling which possessed my heart, when I thought of the great
prairie-world then lying before me, was composed of delight and
melancholy, of confidence and tonucnting fear.

Another picture which I witnessed from a commanding hill-
top, was of an untrodden wilderness of woods, reaching to the
extreme horizon on the north. Owing to my elevated position
the forest-world appeared quite level, and, excepting one barren
ledge, was without a single object to mar the monotony of th©
scene. On that ledge, however, with the aid of my glass I could
just*discem the dead body of a deer, with a black bear reclining
at its side, as if sated with his feast; while in his neighbourhood
were standing some thirty vultures in a state of delightful
anticipation.

The other scene to which I alluded, was witnessed from the
lofty bluff that fronts the mouth of the St. Peter's river. Far
beneath my feet glided the majestic Mississippi; — on my right
stood the handsome and commanding barracks of Fort Snelling,
surmounted by the stars and stripes; on my left, the naked
peak of the Pilot's Nob, with a cluster of trading-houses at its
base; directly before me, winding away like a mighty serpent
between a multitude of islands, lay the deep and turbid St.
Peter's river; and far beyond — far as the eye could reach — ^the
prairie land, whose western boundary is the Rocky Mountains.

The landscape was indeed glorious, and there was something
to gratify my national pride in the flag that fluttered in the
breeze; but when I thought of the business of th&t Fort and the
end for which the people of the hamlet were living in the wilder-
ness, the poetry of the scene was marred, and I longed to dive
still deeper in the wild world which reposed so peacefully
before me. ~ .

AOVEiniJRES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER III.

'. 'I

FALLS OF ST. ANTHON T.

MocTH OP THE St. PbTeb's Rivxr.

The hamlet of St. Peter is at the mouth of the St. Peter's
river, and at the head of steamboat navigation on the Missis-
sippi. My sojourn here has been interesting from many circum-
stances. I feel that I am on the extreme verge of the civilized
world, and that all beyond, to the ordinary traveller, is a mys-
terious wilderness ; and every object which attracts my attention
is made doubly entertaining by the polite attentions I receive
from several gentlemen connected with Fort Snelling and the
Fur Company.

In this vicinity I first saw an extensive encampment of Sioux
or Dacotah Indians, who have, within six miles of the Fort, no less
than three large villages. This, as is well known, is one of the
most peculiar and savage tribes of the north-west, and as I hap-
pen to be here during their gala season, I have had an opportunity
of being present at some of their feasts and games.

On one occasion it was announced throughout the village that
the Indians were to have a Dog Feast, in which none but the
bravest and most distinguished of the warriors are allowed to
participate. The idea that lies at the bottom of this rite is, that
by eating a dog's liver the heart is made strong. The feast
took place on the open prairie, in the afternoon, and was attended
by about one hundi'ed men, while there must have been a thou-
sand spectators. The first step in the ceremony waa^the
Indians seating themselves in a circle around a large pol^ and
devoting a few moments to smoking. Their only article of clothing
was the clout, and their only weapon a long knife, while their
heads were decorated with death trophies, and their bodies encir-
cled by a belt from which hung all the scalps the wearers had

i-ALLS OF ST. ANTHONY.

ir:

taken. Suddenly a whoop was given, and the whole pnrty com-
menced dancing to the monotonous music of a drum. Then
broke upon the ear the howl, and in a moment more the dying
groan of a dog from without the circle of dancers. The carcass
was thrown into their midst by a woman. A chorus of deafen-
ing yells resounded through the air, the dog was immediately
opened, his liver taken out, suspended to the pole by a string,
and the dance resumed. A moment had hardly elapsed, how-
ever, before the dancers, one after another, stepped up and took
a bite of the yet warm and quivering liver. Soon as this was
all eaten, another dog was thrown into the ring, and the same
horrible ceremony repeated; and so they continued until the
carcasses of several dogs were lying at the foot of the pole in the
centre of the dancing crowd. Another human howl ascended to
the sky, and the feast was ended. All the while the river flowed
peacefully onward, and the mellow sunlight bathed in its own
hues the illimitable prairie.

I have also had an opportunity of witnessing in this region
the Indian mode of playing ball. There is nothing exclusive in
this game, and every male Indian who is sufficiently active may
take a part therein. It sometimes lasts for several days, and
when I witnessed it, was played by two companies or bands, of
about one hundred and fifty individuals each. The balls used
are formed of a deer-skin bag, stufied with the hair of that
animal and sewed with its sinews. TiiC clubs are generally three
feet long, and have at the lower end a sinewy netting, sufficiently
large to hold the ball, and each player is furnished with one of
these clubs. With these they catch and throw the ball, and
though they are not allowed to touch it with their hands, it ia
sometimes kept from once touching the ground for a whole after-
noon. The station of each party is marked by a pole, on a line
with which the players stand, just before beginning the game.
The poles are usually about five hundred yards apart. The ball
first makes its appearance midway between the parties, to which
point p« most furious rush is made, and the object to be attained
is, for the player to throw the ball outside his own line of
standing. , ^

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

li I'

i:' li

The Olympic beauty of this game is beyond all praise. It
calls into active exercise every muscle of the humah frame, and
brings into bold relief the supple and athletic forms of the best-
built people in the world. The only omamenta worn are
paint covering the body, which, with the usual exception,
id entirely naked. At one time a figure will rivet your attention
similar to the Apollo Belvidere, and at another, you will actually
be startled by the surpassing elegance of a Mercury. The sole
music that accompanies the game is a chorus of wild clear
laughter. The only drawback connected with it is the danger
of getting your legs broken, or the breath knocked out of your
body, which are calamities that frequently happen.

There are not many particulars with regard to manners and
habits wherein the Sioux Indians differ from their surrounding
brethren. Living, as they mostly do, in a vast prairie region,
their favourite and principal mode of travelling is on horseback,
and, away from the larger river.s, you will find them possessed of
the finest horses, which they love and protect with true Arabian
affection. They are of course admirable horsemen, and very
expert in hunting the bufialo. They are mo.st cruel and vindic-
tive towards their enemies, and have, from time immemorial,
been at war with their neighbours of the north and west; and
their hatred of the white man seems to be a cherished emotion
of their nature. Physically speaking, they are a noble race of
men and women, but universally considered as the Ishmaelites
of the wilderness. Speaking of those Indians, reminds me of their
pictorial historian. Captain Seth Eastman. This gentleman is an
officer in the army, and an artist of ability. He is a native of
Maine, has been in the service about eighteen years, and stationed
at Fort Snelling for the last five. All his leisure time has been
devoted to the study of Indian character, and the portraying
upon canvass of their manners and customs, and the more im-
poi"tant fragments of their history. The Sioux tribes have
attracted most of his attention, although he has not neglected the
Chippeways ; and he has done much to make us acquainted with
the Seminoles of Florida, where he was formerly stationed for
several years. Excepting afewpaintings, which he has occasionally

FALLS OF ST. ANTHOKT.

presented to his friends, all the rest are now in his posses-
sion, and it was my good fortune to spend many agreeable hours
admiring their beauties. The collection now numbers about
fo .r hundred pieces, comprising every variety of scene, from the
grand Medicine Dance to the singular and affecting Indian
Grave. When the extent and character of this Indian Callery
are considered, it must be acknowledged to be the most valu-
able in the country, not even excepting that of George Catlin.
But what adds greatly to the interest called forth by these pic-
tures is the use to which they are to be applied. Instead of being
used as a travelling exhibition to accumulate gold, this gallery
is to be presented to a distinguished college, from which the artist
will only demand the education of his children. There is some-
thing in this movement so foreign to the sordid passion of our
age, and so characteristic of the true spirit of art, that the heart
is thrilled with pleasure when we remember the American soldier-
artist of the wilderness.

I have also had the pleasure of meeting, at St. Peter's M.
Lamarre Piquo, the distinguished French naturalist from Paris.
He has been in the Indian country upwards of a year, and is to
remain some mouths longer. He is on a professional tour, col-
lecting specimens in every department of natural history, and for
that p\irpose is constantly wandering along the rivers, through
the woods, and over the prairies of the north-west, v/'.th no com-
panions but Half-Breeds or Indians. He seems to be a most
passionate lover of his science, and the appearance of his tem-
porary store-room or museum is unique and interestiTig. Here
an immense buffalo stares at you with its glassy eyes, while just
above it, pinned to the wall, may be seen a collection of curious
beetles, butterflies, and other insects; then an elk and a deer will
display their graceful forms, while at their feet will be coiled up
the rattlesnake, the adder, and other frightful serpents ; here the
otter, the beaver, the fox, the wolf, the bear, and othei native
animals; there a complete flock of web-footed creatures, fi'om
the wild swan and pelican to the common duck; here an eagle
and hawk, a partridge and scarlet-bird ; and there, embalmed in
spirit, a vast vai'iety of curious reptiles. M. Lamarre Piquo

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

belonss to that honourable class of scholars whose labours tend to
develop the glorious resources of our country, and among whom
we find such men as Wilson, Audubon, Silliman, and Houghton,

Among the natural beauties associated with St. Peter ought
not to be forgotten Carver's Cave, the Cascade Waterfall, the
Lakes, and the Pilot's Nob. The Cave is about four miles below,
and was named after Carver, who was the first white man that
explored it thoroughly; its Indian name however was Wahon-
teebe, which means Dwelling of the Great Spirit. The entrance
to it is on the brink of the river, five feet high and about twice
as wide; and the arch within is not far from fifteen feet high
and twenty broad. The bottom is covered with san<l, which
slopes down to a lake of pure water, the opposite boundary of
which has never been visited. On one of the inner sides, not
far from the entrance, are several Indian hieroglyphics, partly
covered with the moss of bygone centuries.

About two miles north of St. Peter there empties into the
Mississippi a small river, named the Laughing Water, which is
the parent of a beautiful waterfall. The stream is perhaps fifty
feet wide, and after a wayward passage across the green prairie,
it finally comes to a precipice of more than one hundred feet deep,
and in an unbroken sheet discharges its translucent treasure into
the pool below. So completely hidden by a mass of foliage is this
fdll, that you would pass it by imnoticed were it not for its ever-

murmuring song.

The lakes in the neighbourhood of St. Peter, on the bosom
of the prairie, number some four or five, the most conspicuous of
which are Harriet and Calhoun. They are not deep, but clear,
abound in fish, and are encircled by sand. The Pilot's Nob is
a grass-covered peak, commanding a magnificent series of views.
To the west lies a boundless prairie; to the north and south the
fantastic valley of the Mississippi ; and to the east a wilderness
of forests and prairie, apparently reaching to the shores of
Michigan. But let us pass on to the Falls of St. Anthony, which
are a few miles above St. Peter.

These Falls are more famous than remarkable. They were
first visited by Father Hennepin in 1689, who gave them their

FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY.

presont name out of re8f)ect to his patron saint. Their original
name, in the Sioux hmguage, was Owah-menah, meaning yaWinjr
wafer. They owe their reputation principally to the fact, that
they " veto" the navigation of the Upper Missis8ipi)i. They are
surrounded with prairie, and therefore easily approached from
every direction. The river here is perhaps half a mile wide, and
the entire height of the Falls, including the upper and lower
rapids, is said to measure some twenty-five or thirty feet, and
they are consequently without an imposing feature. The line
of the Falls is nearly straight, but broken near the centre by a
large island, and just below this are no less than seven smaller
but more picturesque islands, which are looked down upon by
steep bluffs on either side of the river. For half a mile before
the waters make their plunge, they glide swiftly across a slant-
ing, but perfectly flat bed of rock ; and after they have reached
the lower level, they create a sheet of foam, as if venting their
wrath upon the rocks which impede their progress; but in a
few moments they murmur themselves to sleep, and then glide
onward in peace towards the far distant ocean.*

They seem to be the grand headquarters for the eagles of the
wilderness, which congregate here in great numbers. At one
moment a hungry individual might be seen, struggling with a
bass or trout, directly in the pure foam j and then another, with
well-filled crop, high up in heaven, would be floating on his
tireless pinions. At another time, too, you might see a crowd of
them hovering over the body of some floating animal which had
lost its life while attempting to cross the upper rapids, and fear-
ful indeed was the shriek of conflict between those warriors of
the air.

Associated with the Falls of St. Anthony is the following
Indian legend. A Chippeway woman, the daughter of a chief,
and the wife of a warrior, had been cruelly treated by her faith-
less husband. She was not beautiful, but young and proud, and
the mother of a lovely daughter-child. Goaded to the quick by
repeated wi'ongs, she finally resolved to release herself from every

* These falls are seven miles from the hamlet of St. Peter, and geologists
suppose that that was their original site.

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

trouble, and her child from evil friends, Vy departing for the
Spirit Land, and the Falls were to be the gateway to that
promised heaven. It was an Indian summer evening, and
nature was hushed into a deep repose. The mother and her
child were alone in their wigwam, within sight and hearing of
the Falls, and the father was absent on a hunting exiiedition.
The mother kissed and caressed her darling, and then dressed it
with all the ornaments in her possession ; while from her own
person she rejected every article of clothing which she had
received from her husband, and arrayed herself in richer garments
which she had made with her own hands. She then obtained a
full-blown lily, and crushing its petals and breaking its stem,
she placed it on a mat in the centre of her lodge, as a memorial of
her wrongs. All things being ready, she seized the child, hastened
to the river, launched her frail canoe, and in a moment more
was floating on the treacherous stream. According to a universal
Indian custom, she sang a wild death-song, — for a moment her
canoe trembled on the brow of the watery precipice, and in an
instant more the mother and child were for ever lost in the
foam below.

A RIDE ON HORSEBACK.

CHAPTER IV.

A RIDE ON HORSEBACK.

Crow-wikq.

My mode of travelling from the Falls of St. Anthony to Crow-
wing river "was on hoi-seback. I obtained ray animal from a
Frenchman, who accompanied me as guide. There was no
regular road to follow, but only a well-beaten trail, which ran,
for the most part, along the eastern bank of the Mississippi, where
lie a continued succession of prairies and oak-openings. We
were each furnished with a blanket, a small stock of bread and
pork, ammunition and a gun. Our horses were young and fleet,
and mine was particularly easy and graceful in his movements.
The day was scorchingly hot ; but I was so anxious to proceed that
I ventured out, and by six o'clock we were on our winding way.

A few hours had elapsed without meeting with a single adven-
ture, when I fixed my eyes upon my gun, (which then seemed
to be about six times as heavy as when we started,) and began
to wonder whether T was not in a fair way of illustrating Dr.
Franklin's story of the whistle. But before I had a chance even
to cast a look behind, I was startled by the report of my
companion's gun, when lo! Justin the shadow of a neighbouring
thicket I saw a large buck make two frightful leaps, and then drop
to the earth quite dead. lu a veiy few moments the two hind
quarters of the animal were enveloptid in his hide, and strapped
to my friend's saddle ; the tune of my intentions was changed, and
after taking a lunch of bread we continued our journey.

Our route, during the afternoon, lay over a portion of the
prauie that was alive with grouse. My guide considered them
unworthy gnn for his gun and skill, and left me to enjoy the
sport alone. 1 had i ) dog to point them; but my horge was so

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

■: i

! I :

i:!l !!!

well trained to slioot from, that he answered very well as a sub-
stitute. I only had to ride into the midst of a flock, frighten
them, bang away, and dismount to pick them up. And this was
the manner in which I spent the " lucid intervals" of our frequent
" halts," by way of resting myself and keeping cool. I do not
desire to tell an unreasonable story ; but I must say, that at sun-
set I had fastened to my saddle upwards of fifty prairie birds.

We were now on the margin of a handsome stream, in a
natural meadow, and, as we found it necessary to feed and
rest our horses, we gave them some water, hobbled them, and
turned them at large. In the mean time we amused ourselves
by cooking and enjoying a portion of our game, and that was my
first supper in the wilderness. We roasted our meat on one stick,
while just above it with another stick we melted a slice of pork,
for the sake of its salty drippings. We despatched a comfortable
quantity of venison, with an occasional mouthful of pork and
bread, and used the brains, legs, and breast of a grouse for dessert.
Our beverage consisted of the purest water, which we quafied in
a position approaching to the horizontal, though our heels were
somewhat nearer heaven than our heads. We concluded our
repast with an hour's snooze, and by the light of a thousand stars
saddled our horses once more, and resumed our journey.

It was a cool, calm, cloudless night, and we were the only
human beings on a prairie which appeared to be illimitable. I
was informed, however, that a little speck that caught my eye
far to the westward, was the cabin of an Indian trader, whose
nearest neighbour, with one exception, was fifty miles off; also
that the place was on the Mississippi, (which we had left for a
time.) and was known as Little Rock. As I was a good deal
fatigued, the poetry of that unique ride did not make much of an
impression upon me. I tried to muster a little sentiment on
the occasion, but, just as it was about to manifest itself in words,
my head would suddenly drop upon my shoulder heavier than a
clod; and like a feeble, flickering lamp, my senses would revive,
only to be lulled again into a doze and nod. But this sleepy
state of things was not to lasi for even It so happened that we
discovered directly in our pathway a solitary wolf, which waa

A RIDE ON HORSEBACK.

snuffing the ground as if on the scent of some feeble creature
that would afford him a hearty feast. He was an ugly looking
rascal, and called forth from my companion a bitter curse. At
his suggestion we dismounted, and with our guns cocked,
approached the wolf, using our horses as a kind of shield. "We
had approached within a reasonable shot of the animal, when it
suddenly started, but seeing nothing but two horses, it paused,
pricked up its ears, and seemed to be whetting its appetite for a
supper of horse-flesh. In a moment, however, the signal was
given, and the two heavy charges of our guns were lodged in the
body of the wolf, which was at that instant supposed to be in a
precarious condition; and, without stopping to see him die, we
once more mounted our faithful ponies.

Our excitement having subsided, we gradually fell into a
drowsy state, that was " heavier, deadlier than before." But
from this were we also roused, and by the tramp or pattering of
feet in our rear. We looked, and behold ! a herd of wolves were
coming towards us on the keen run. Our horses took fright and
became unmanageable. The prairie devils were now almost
upon us, when our horses actually broke loose, and away they ran
over the plain. It was not long, therefore, before we left our
enemies far out of sight, and early on the following day we
reached the mouth of Crow-wing river. My companion with
difficulty managed to retain his venison ; but when I came to
count my birds, I found only five remaining, the rest having
unintentionally been left upon the prairie as food for the robbera
of the wilderness.

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER XI.

I Mill

II Hi

V II

CROW-WING.

CROW-\nNO.

The spot thus designated is beautifully situated on the eastern
side of the Mississippi, directly at the mouth of the river known
by that name. It is here that the trader Allan Morrison resides,
whose reputation as an upright, intelligent, and noble-hearted
man, is coextensive with the entire wilderness of the north-west.
He is a Scotchman by birth, somewhat advanced in life, and has
resided in the Indian country for thirty-five years. He possesses
all the virtues of the trader and none of his vices. He is the
worthy husband of a worthy Indian woman, the affectionate
father of a number of bright children, and the patriarch of all the
Chippeway Indians who reside on the Mississippi. Around his
cabin and two rude storehouses, at the present time are encamped
about three hundred Indians, who are visitivig him, and I am
informed that his guests, during the summer, seldom amount to
less than one hundred. And this is the place where I have
passed ten of the most truly delightful days that I ever experi-
enced. It is at this point that I am to embark in a canoe, with
Morrison, (accompanied by his unique suite,) who is to be ray
counsellor and friend, while I wander, according to my own free
will, over the lake region of the extreme Upper Mississippi.

Crow-wing is not only one of the most delightfully located
nooks in the world, but it is rich in historical and legendary
associations. A famous battle was once fought h ore between the
Chippeways and Sioux. A party of the latter had gone up
Crow-wing river for the purpose of destroying a certain Chippe-
way village. They found it inhabited only by women and
children, every one of whom they murdered in cold blood, and

CROW-WING.

consumed their wigwams. It so happened that the Chippeway
warriors had been expecting an attack, and had consequently
stationed themselves in deep holes on a high bank of the river
at Crow-wing, intending to fall upon the Sioux party on their
way itp the river. But they were most sadly disappointed.
While watching for their enemies, th'^y were suddenly startled
by a triumphant shout that floated down the stream. In perfect
agony they looked, when lo 1 the very party that they were after
came into full view, shouting with delight and tossing up the
scalps which they had taken. Many a Chippeway brave recog-
nized the glossy locks of his wife or child, and knew his gloomiest
anticipations to be true. They remained in ambush for a few
minutes longer, and when the enemy came within reach of their
arrows, every single one of them was killed, while their canoes,
plunder, and bodies were suffered to float down the stream
unmolested ; and the pall of night rested upon the hills, the glens,
the waveless river, and the Chippeway camp.

Among the many legends associated with Crow-wing is one
about a white panther, whose home was here when the world
was young. That panther was the prophet of a certain Chippe-
way tribe, and had power to speak the Chippeway language. A
young brave was anxious to revenge the death of a brother, and
had sought the oracle to leam the success of his intended expedi-
tion. The panther told him that he must not go, but wait until
a more propitious season. But the young man headed his party»
and went; and every one of his followers was killed — himself
escaping by the merest chance. Thinking that the panther had
caused this calamity, he stole upon this creature and slaughtered
it in the darkness of midnight. The dying words of the oracle
were, — " Cruel and unhappy warrior, I doom thee to walk the
earth for ever, a starving and undying skeleton !" And it is said
that this spectre man, whenever the moon is tinged with red, or
the aurora-borealis floods the sky with purple, may be seen
flitting in solitude along the banks of the Mississippi.

Crow- wing is the Windsor of the wilderness, for it is the
nominal home of the head chief of the Chippeway nation. His
name is Hole-in-the-day, and I had frequent opportunities of

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

ii^i' m

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ill

liii

i b

•III',
iliP

visiting liim in his lodge. He is about sixty years of age, and a
remarkably handsome man. He is stern and brave, but mean,
vain, treacherous, and cruel. He was in the habit of resorting
to the most contemptible tricks for the purpose of obtaining
Nvliisky, with which he always made a beast of himself He was
constantly in the habit of talking about himself, and exhibiting
the official papers which he had received from the government in.
making treaties. The following was the most famous of his deeds,
and one that he had the hardihood to boast of as something
creditable. He and some six warriors, while on a hunting tour,
were hospitably entertained in a Sioux lodge, where resided a
family of seventeen persons. The two nations were at peace,
and for a time their intercourse had been friendly. On leaving
his host, Hole-in-the-day shook him cordially by the hand, with
a smile upon his countenance, and departed. At midnight, when
the Sioux family were revelling in th'eir peaceful dreams, Hole-
in-the-day and his men retraced their steps, and without a
reasonable provocation fell upon the unprotected family, and
cruelly murdered every member, even to the lisping babe. And
it was in the lodge of this titled leader that I spent whole hours
in conversation, and from whom I received a present, in. the shape
of a handsome red-stone pipe. It is indeed a singular fact, that
the most interesting and intelligent nation of the West should
be ruled by such an unworthy chief as Hole-in-the-day.

A word now about his household. He is the husband of two
wives, who pursued, while I was present, their various avocations
in studied silence. Each of them presented me with a pair of
moccasins> and placed before me whole mocucks of maple sugar.
In passing, I might remark, that when the Indians are hard push-
ed for flour or game, they will resoi-t to their sugar, upon which
they can live for days, and which they consider the most whole-
some of food. The children that swarmed about the chiefs lodge,
I was unable to number. His eldest son and successor I frequent-
ly met, and fourd him to be quite a Brummel of the woods. The
following story gave me a glimpse of his character. Some months
ago, the idea had entered his head that his father was jealous of
his increasing populaiity among the j)eople. He waa seriously

CROW WINQ.

affected by it, and in a fit of anger resolved to starve hhnself to
death. His friends laughed at him, but to no purpose. He left
his home, marched into the woods, and ascended a certain liill,
(called Look-out hill, and used from time immemorial, by the
Indians, as a point from which to watch the movements of their
enemies ascending or descending the Mississippi,) where he re-
mained four days without a particle of food. He was only rescued
from death by the timely discovery of his friends, who took liim
away by force, and actuaUy crammed some nourishment down
his throat.

But my Crow-wing stories are not all related yet, I here
saw alive and quite hajjpy, a warrior who was once scalped in a
skirmish on the northern shore of Red Lake. His enemies left
him on the ground as dead, but, wonderful to relate, he gradually
recovered, and is now as well as any body ; but perfectly hairless,
of course, and wears upon his Jiead a black silk handkerchief.
The summer after this event he was hunting buifalo in the Sioux
country, when he had another fight with two Indians, both of
whom he succeeded in butchering, and one of those men was the
identical Sioux who had taken his scalp a few months before.

During my sojourn here, I have had frequent opportunities of
witnessing the Indian mode of swimming. To speak within
bounds, there must be some sixty boys at Crow-wing who enjoy
a swim about every hour. When not in the water, they are hard
at work playing ball, and all in the sweltei ing sunshine, with their
i-agged looking heads entirely uncovered, and their bodies almost
naked. As soon as the child is loosened from its prison
cradle, it is looked upon as a fit candidate for any number of
duckings, which are about its only inheritance. These children
are just as much at home in the water as a full-fledged duck.

They swim with great rapidity, always extending one arm
forward like a bowsprit, and holding the other closely at the side.
They are so expert in diving, that when a number are pursuing a
particular individual, and that one happens to dive, the whole of
them will follow after, and finally all rise a hundred yards oflT.
To bring up a pebble from a hole twenty feet deep is looked upon
as a very common feat. .This art seems to be inherent in their

-^"

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

nature, and is the gift of a wise Providence; — for all their
journeys are performed on the water, and their canoes are as frail
as frailty itself. It is very seldom that we hear of an Indian
being drowned.

The only Indian ceremony I hp.ve witnessed at this place, is
called the Begging Dance. A large party of hrave warriors had
come to pay their white father (Mr. Morrison) a disintorested
visit ; but as they were nearly stai'ved, tliey said not a word, but
immediately prepared themselves for the dance, that is universally
practised throughout the nation. It was night, and all the people
of Crow-wing were stationed in a large circle before Morrison's
door; while one swarthy form held aloft a birchen torch, which
completed sxTch a picture as was never equalled upon canvass.
The everlasting drum, and rattling of " dry bones," commenced
their monotonous music; when the most ridiculously dressed
man that I ever beheld, stepped out from the crowd and com-
menced dancing, keeping time with a guttural hum. Upon his
head was a peaked woollen hat, and his flowing hair was filled
and entangled with burs. On his back he wore the remnant of
an ancient military coat, and on one leg the half of a pair of
breeches, while his other propelling member was besmeared with
mud. In one hand he held the empty skin of a skunk, and in the
other the gaunt body of a dead crane. Immediately after this
rare specimen, appeared in regular succession about twenty more
dressed in a similar manner, and when all out, their dancing
capera were even more uncouth and laughable than tlieir personal
appearance. The object of all th^r was to exhibit their abject
poverty, and create an atmosphere of good-nature; and it was
their method of asking Mr. Morrison for food. Soon as he had
supplied them with flour and pork, they ceased dancing, seized
the booty, and departed for their wigwams to enjoy a feast. On
the following day, this band of gentlemen made their appearance,
painted, and decked out in most splendid style, with the feathers,
ribbons, scarlet leggins, and other ornaments which they had
kept hidden until after the dance and feast were ended.

I have as vet accomplished but little in the way of hunting;
that is, but little for this region. On one occasion I killed seven

CROW-WING.

fine looking ducks, which turned out, however, to be unfit to eat,
as they were of the dipper species, and a little too fishy, even for my
taste ; at one time I killed twenty-five pigeons ; at another about
R dozen grouse ; and last of all a couple of young coons. This
Litter game, I would remark, afforded me one of the most
delectable of feasts.

But in the way of fishing, the waters about Crow-wing have
treated me to some of the rarest of sport. The Mississippi at
this point contains a great variety of fish of the mullet and sucker
genus, but the only two desii'able kinds are the muskalonge and a
very large pike. I tried some of these with a fine hook baited
with a frog, but I could not tempt them in that way. The
fcishionable mode of taking them is with a spear, by torchlight, and
during half the hours of one night I performed the paii; of a de-
votee to fashion. My pilot was an Indian, and we went in a
birchen canoe, using birch-bark for a torch. There were a number
of canoes out that night, and the gliding about of the various
torches, the wild shores, the ever-varying bed of the river, and
my own occasional struggle with an immense fish, conspired to
tlirow me into a nervous state of excitement which has not
entirely left me at the present moment. I did think of mention-
ing the number of prizes that were taken on that memorable night,
but my modesty forbids ; I will only say that I saw extended on
the shore a muskalonge that weighed fifty pounds, and a pike
that almost weighed twenty-four.

Two miles east of Morrison's house is a little lake, some four
miles in circumference, which is said to contain no other fish than
black bass. My own experience tells me that this report is true-
I angled along its sandy shores a number of times, and could
take nothing but bass. They were small, weighing about a pound,
dark green on the back, sides a brilliant yellow, and belly
white. I took them with a fly, and found them delicious eating.

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMEBIOA.

CHAPTER VT.

iHiiJll

ELK LAKE.

In my Canoe.

Elk or Itascf? Lake is the fountain head of the Mississippi.
It is thought to he almost three thousand miles from the Gulf
of Mexico, and two thousand feet above the*level of the Atlantic.
It is a small sheet of water, about five miles long, one to two
miles wide, and contains only one island, which lies directly in
the centre. The first traveller who visited the lake was Henry
li. Schooifiraft, after whom the island has been justly named.
On the south side is a ridge of wood-crowned hills, which give
birth to tiny streams, that eventually empty their waters into
the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The whole region on the
north is woody, low, and marshy. The water is clear, deep, and
full of fish ; the bottom gravelly ; and the entire shore covered
with reeds and rushes. The trees which abound here are the
pine, oak, elm, mai:)le, birch, and poplar; and the fish are
principally the trout, pike, and black bass. The Mississippi
when it leaves this lake is only about twenty feet wide, but after
passing through a great number of lakes it spreads itself to the
width of one hundred and fifty feet, and falls into Red Cedar
Lake. This portion of the Greal' Ptiver might well be likened
to the infant Hercules, for it is the master of every thing around
it, and rambles onward as if conscious of its dawning power.
"Upon the whole, however, it runs through a cheerless wilderness.

The region of Elk Lake was once famous for the number of
its animals, and derives its name from the following legend of a
mammoth Elk. This creature is said to have measured the
length of two large canoes, and with his horns had power to
sjlit a pine-tree. His lair was in a valley among the neighbour-

ELKLAKB.

ing hills, wlier<5 lie reigned supreme ; and it was cwstomary for
all the animals of the north, which were of giant size in those
tlays, to make him an anmial visit. As they were ■ numerous,
they were compelled to occupy the country for many miles
around, which accounts for its excessive flatness. The object of
this " world's convention" was to consult the king of beasts as
to the forests and plains they were to occupy during the follow-
ing year, and to partake of the water of the small lake, which
had power to protect them from every disease or accident ; and
such was the stase of things, when an enemy made its appear-
ance, and the reign of the Emperor Elk was ended.

Those were the days when giants inhabited the earth, and the
region where they most congregated was in the far South. It
so happened that a hunting party of these people wandered to
the North, and finally pitched their tents in the vicinity of this
lake. Among the animals they succeeded in killing was the
mammoth Elk, which they found asleep, and pierced with a
poisoned arrow. The heavens were immediately £lled with
clouds, a heavy rain deluged the earth, and with their booty, in
melancholy mood, the hunters started on their return. The
rain was so abundant that the lake overflowed its banks, forming
a little stream, which finally widened into a broad river, and
emptied into an unknown sea; and on the bosom of this river
did the hunters float in their nev/ly-made canoes, until they
found themselves in their own country. The conclusion of the
whole matter was, that from tha+. year all the animals of the
earth began to dwindle in gi-'e, and \)he men of that time were
reduced in stature to the height of their younger children.

A more suggestive legend than the above I have seldom heard.
To my mind, it illustrates the poetical genius of the Indian, and
throws much light upon the history of the Mound Builders. I
obtained it from the lips of an old Indian hermit, as I sat in his
solitary lodge, at the foot of one of the hills which look down
upon Elk Lake.

On the summits of those hills I spent a number of days,
pondering upon the strange wild scenery which surrounded me.
At one time I revelled over a morning landscape. The sun had

ADVENTURES IN TH£ WILDS OF NORTH AMERICil.

just risen above an ocean of forests, and the sky was echoing
with a thousand strains of melody. Earth was awake, and
clothed in her fresh green gai*ment. The mists had left the long
low valleys, and revealed to the open sky winding rivers and
lakes of surpassing loveliness. Every thing was laughing with
joy under the glorious influence of the summer sun.

The elk and the deer, to my mind's eye, were cropping their
morning repast, with the dew-showers trickling from their sides.
Gracefully did the smoke curl upward from an Indian village.
The huntoi-s were preparing for the chase. I saw them enter
their canoes, silently glide down a river, and finally lose them-
selves among the islands of a vast swamp. None were left in
that village but women and children. While the former busied
themselves in their rude occupations, the latter were sporting in
the sunshine, some shooting at a target, some leaping, some
swimming, and others dancing.

A rushing sound now fell upon my ear from a neighbouring
thicket. It was a wourded moose, that had sought refuge from
a hunter. The arrow had pierced his heart, and, like an exiled
monarch, he had come here to die. He writhed and bounded
in agony. One efibrt more, and all was still. The noisy raven
was now to feed upon those delicately-formed limbs, and pluck
from their sockets those eyes, which were of late so brilliant and
full of fire. But after all, lovely, lovely indeed, was that morning
landscape of the pathless wilderness. ' l

' At one time I gazed upon a noontide panorama. Not a breath
of air was stirring, and the atmosphere was hot and sultry. The
leaves ^nd the green waves of the distant prairie were motion-
less. The birds were tired of singing, and had sought the
shadowy recesses of the wood. The deer was quenching his
tlii^st in some nameless stream, or panting with heat in some
secluded dell. On an old dry tree, whose giant arms stretched
upward as if to grasp the clouds, a solitary bald eagle had
perched himself. It was too hot even for him to enjoy a bath
in the upper air ; but presently, as if smitten with a new thought,
he spread out his broad pinions, and slowly ascended to the
zenith, — whence I fancied that the glance of his keen eyes could

>ir:i«

ELK LAKE.

almost rest npou the Atlantic and Pacific Oceana. Tlie bn wjrfly
and wild bee were resting on the fiill- blown flowers; and silence
reigned in the Indian village. The children, exhausted with
heat and play, had gone to lie down, some in their cabins, and
some in the cool shadow of the trees. Earth and air were so
tranquil, that it seemed as if nature was offering up a prayer.
Winding far away to the south was the Mississippi, fading away
to the bending sky.

Towards evening a cloud obscured the sky. The wind arose^
and was followed by a roaring sound, — and now a storm was
spending its fury upon forest and prairie. Loud thunder echoed
through the firmament, and the fiercest lightnings flashed forth
their fire. The forests were bending as if every tree would
break. An old oak, which stood in its grandeur upon the plain,
now lay prostrate. The parched soil was deluged with rain.
But finally the storm spent its fury, and the clouds, like ■&
routed army, were passing away in dire confusion. A rainbow
then arched the heavens, and a fresh but gentle breeze was
pleasantly fanning my cheek.

I also looked upon this wilderness landscape at a later hour.
As the sun descended, the clouds came out to meet him, decked
in their most gorgeous hues, while the evening star smiled at hia
approach. He had left the valleys in twilight, and I knew that
his last beams were gilding with gold the Rocky Mountains,
The moon ascended to her throne, and the whippoorwill
commenced her evening hymn. On heavy wings a swan flew
past me; she was going perhaps to her home on the margin of
Hudson's Bay. A stir was in the Indian village, for they had
returned with their canoes loaded with game. The customary
festival had commenced, and most strangely did their wild music
sound, as it broke on the surrounding solitude. The doe had
gone to her grassy couch, the feathered multitudes were sleeping^
and night had fallen upon the world.

It was now midnight, and I stood in the centre of an ap-
parently boundless wilderness of forests and prairies; while far
away to the north-west reposed a range of hills, which seemed to
me like a vast caravan of the antediluvian Mound Builders,

ADVENTURES IN THE Wli. >S OF NORTH AMERICA,

The moon had compassed the heavens, and was near her setting.
A thousand stars were by her side. She flooded with her silver
beams the leaves, the waves, and distant hills. Every voice
within the Indian village was hushed. The warrior, asleep
upon his mat, was dreaming of a new hunting-gi'ound; the
youth, of the dark-eyed maiden whom he loved; and the child, of
the toys of yesterday. The pale face had not yet trespassed
upon their rights; and, as they were at peace with the Great
Spirit, they were contented and happy. Deeply impressive was
the hour. The wind «vas up, and, wailed an awful anthem as it
swept through the dark pines. The owl was noiselessly flying
from tree to tree, and the beautiful whippoorwill was sleeping.
The splash of a leaping fish, or the howl of a wolf, were the only
sounds which fell upon my ejur. And when I retraced my
Journey from the summit of the Elk Hills and the margin of Elk
Lake, few and brief were the words that escaped my lips, for
my heart was oppressed by the wonders I had seen.

■ri"

LEECH LAKE.

CHAPTER VII.

LEECH LAKE.

In Mr Canoe.

Leech Lake lies in the midst of a forest, mostly composed of
pine, maple, oak, elm, and tamarack. It is supposed to be about
forty miles in length, and perhaps twenty to twenty-five in
width. Its shores aro very irregular ; it contains a number of
large islands, and a trading post of some antiquity. It derives
its name (Casagasque) from the story, that the first man who
discovered it, saw in it a leech that was wider across the back
than an ordinary Tiidian mat. It is deep and clear, has a sandy
bottom and shores, and is far-famed for its white fish, though
possessing almost every other variety in great abundance.
Three of its most prominent islands are known by the names of
the Goose, the Pelican, and the Bear. The first has a desolate
appearance, and i-^ inhabited only by immense numbers of water-
fowl ; the second is noted for its fishing-grounds, and a certain
species of the pelican said to be found only on its shores ; and
the third has a good soil, is thickly wooded, and somewhat
cultivated by a tribe of Indians, who own the lake, and inhabit
the surrounding country.

This tribe of people glory in the name of Pillagers, and
fully deserve the name. If they happen to meet a stranger
Inilian, or trader, each one will unceremoniously help himself to
an article that he likes, politely remarking that for his paii; he
desires nothing more, after which they feed the unfortunate man
well, but let him depart with nothing but a blanket or jacket.
The Pillagers are a brave, proud, and warlike people, but, on
account cf their thieving peculiarity, are universally hated and
feared. But they are good hunters, and pay more attention to
agriculture than any other tribe in the nation. . ^

(;■

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

I m

During my stay at Leech Lake I had an opportunity of
witnessing a Medicine Dance, and of obtaining some information
with regard to the Medicine Society. It is a religious rite, and
practised on a great variety of occasions. At this time the
dance was given by a man who had lost a relative. The
ceremony commenced at twelve o'clock at night, and lasted until
the evening of the following day ; and such a perfect mixture of
ridiculous dancing, horrible yelling, and uncouth dressing, I
never before witnessed, and never wish to witness again. It
positively seamed as if all the more unearthly creations of Dante
had been let loose upon the earth, and had sought the heart of
the wilderness, to rejoice at their freedom, and portray the
miseries of hell. I would, but cannot, adequately describe the
scene, and I can only expect my more imaginative readers to
obtain the faintest idea of its strange, strange appearance.

White men and Indians who have never been initiated into
the mysteries of the Grand Medicine, are not allowed to be
present during the first part of the celebration. From what I
have seen and heard about it, I am convinced that it is nothing
in the world but an Indian and savage species of Freemasonry.
A Medicine man would sooner die than divulge the secrets of
his order. The ceremony on the occasion above mentioned, was
performed in the immediate vicinity of the deceased; while a
conversation was carried on with the dead, and food placed by
its side, as if it had been a living and hungry individual. Then
it was that their medicine bags were taken out, and as each
Indian has a certain medicine, or preparation A^^hich he supposes
his skin to possess, he attempts to manifest its virtues on this
occasion. By breathing into the nostrils of the skin, he imparts
to it a particular charm, by which he can cure the sick or destroy
his enemies. Hence the great fear that these conjurers inspire
in 'jM others. Medicine men support each other in every thing
they may happen individually to require, even to the murder of
an unfortunate child. When a man has passed the highest
degree, he can command the services of his brethren for any
purpose. The price of admission is six pieces for each grade, and
there are eight grades. By one piece they mean a blanket, a

LEECH LAKE.

pair of leggins, a knife, a gun, or any other useful article. The
man who gives the most expensive pieces is highly honoured,
and can make the largest demands upon the society, so that the
older members obtain a revenue for their former expendi-
tures. When they wish to inform a distant lodge of the faith-
lessness of a member, they despatch a piece of tobacco; the
guilty man is always known and never admitted, but when they
prove true, their membership is inherited. The missionaries of
the west are inclined to believe that this Medicine institution is
the grand obstacle to the promulgation of the Christian religion
among the Indians. r.

I also witnessed while at Leech Lake the conclusion of a
ceremony that was commenced some weeks before. There had
been a Virgin Dance,, the prominent features of which, are as
follows. All the virgins of the village assemble together and
seat themselves in a large circle. In the midst of this company
are collected all the young men of the village, who dance for the
amusement of the ladies. But if it so happens that one of the
men stops suddenly and points his finger at a particular girl,
she is at once looked upon as having lost her virginity; if the
charge is substantiated the girl is disgraced, but if not, the
young man must die. The conclusion that I alluded to was, the
execution, in cold blood, of a fine-looking young man, who had
attempted, without cause, to ruin the reputation of a girl by
whom he had been rejected. In an unguarded moment he had
been stabbed, and when I saw him, he was weltering in his
blood. It was a most terrible exhibition of justice and cruelty,
and made me partly admire and then utterly despise the
character of the whole Indian race.

While at this lake a couple of trappers made their appearance
from the Red River wilderness, where they had been hunting
during the past winter, but owing to an accident had been detained
from returning until the present time. They were half-breeds,
and as wild a pair of beings as 1 ever beheld. Their furs, at the
usual prices, would probably bring them some fifteen hundred
dollars. Their place of destination was St. Louis, where each
one had a wife and children. Their intention was to remain

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

with their Mends until November, when they would dive into
the wilderness again. , . -

I only heard three legends at Leech Lake. One gives the
origin of a certain miniature whirlpool, which may be seen on
the south side. A couple of Chippeway women, while crossing
in a canoe, were pursued by Sioux Indians, but the Lake Spirit,
out of compassion for their misfortune, struck the water with
his wings, and opened an easy pathway to the Spirit Land. The
second story is about Pelican Island. It is said that no Indian
ever visited it without being caught in a storm; and that it has
for centuries been inhabited by strange people. They were never
visible excepting from the main shore, for when the island was
searched no tracks or wigwam-poles could be seen, nothing but
rocks, grass, and reeds. At the present time, none but the bravest
dare land upon its shore with their canoes.

The third legend that I heard connected with this lake, was
about a famous battle once fought between the gods of the
■white man and the red man. A great many summers ago, a
race of white people made their appearance on the shores of this
country, and, as they were a strange people, the red men of the
wilderness were disposed to love them. As the former were
very poor, the latter presented them with a few acres of land to
cultivate. As the white men increased in numbers, thev craved
more land, but the red men would not yield to their extravagant
solicitations. In the mean time the strange people were becom-
ing powerful. In process of time the Big Manito became
displeased with them, and was determined that this usurpation
should cease. He visited the white man's god, and told him
that he must take back his ambitious children. The white man's
god replied that he would do no such thing, but was determined
to protect his own. Manito then told him that the question
must be decided by battle. A famous battle was fought, and
the white man's god triumphed. He took Manito prisoner, and
tied him to an oak with hickory saplings, but he finally made
his escape, and with his children took \ip his home in the more
remote wilderness.

The region of Leech Lake is somewhat famous for the quantity

LEECH LAKE.

and good quality of the original maize or Indian com. When
I was there it was not sufficiently advanced to be eaten, even in,
a green state, but I obtained a fact with regard to corn planting,
which may be new to my readers. All the labour connected with
the raising of corn is performed by the women, who take it upon
themselves as an offset to the hardships endured by the men in
hunting. It is customary for them after they have planted the
seed, to perform, in a state of nudity, a nocturnal walk through
the field, which ceremony is supposed to protect the grain from
the destroying insect or worm.

During my stay at this lake, I received from my friend
Morrison, the following facts with regard to the game now
inhabiting this region. The black bear, the black and grey
wolf, the elk, the moose, and the deer, the otter, the mink,
porcupine, white fisher, fox, the coon, the martin, the rabbit, and
a variety of squirrels, are as abundant as ever; the grisly bear
and buffalo are found only occasionally ; and the beaver is entirely
extinct. Among the bii-ds that I saw were eagles, fish-hawks,
night-hawks, owls, loons, the swan, the crane, a great variety of
ducks, the pigeon, the woodpecker, blue-jay, black and blue-bird,
red-bird, and the king-bird; and among the fish that may be
found in Leech Lake, are the white-fish, the trout, the pike, the
j pickerel, the bass, the sucker, and the mullet. It is said the white-
[ fish of this lake originated from the brains of a woman; and I am
also told that its shores have in times past yielded more wealth
j in the way of fiirs than any other place of the same extent iu
the north-west. But enough. It is time that I should close this
desultory paper, else my reader will accuse me of practising the
characteristic peculiarity of the animal Leech.

ADVENTURES IN THE W'lLDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

1 it j>.

■ •' u

CHAPTER VIII.

SANDY LAKE.

St. Louis River.

I NOW write from the margin of a stream which falls into
Lake Superior, towards which I am impatiently pursuing my
way. Sandy Lake, where ended my voyaging on the Mississippi,
is one of the most famous lakes of the north-west. It lies only
about three miles east of the great river, almost directly west
from Lake Superior,, and is about six miles long. Over the
intervening route which connects the two water wonders of our
country, more furs and Indian goods have been transported than
over any other trail in the wilderness. The lake received its
name from the French, on account of its sandy shores, which are
reniarkably beautiful, abounding in agates and cornelians. There
is a trading post here, which is said to have been established
ninety years ago ; and in a certain log cabin which was pointed
out to me, I was told furs had been stored to the value of fifty
millions of dollars.

The shores of this lake are hilly, and '-eing fiiU of beautiful
islands, it presents a most interesting appearance. The water is
clear and abounds in fish, of which the black bass, the pike, and
white-fish are the most abundant.

The voyager in pursuing this route always finds it necessary
to make a number of portages. The original manner in which
I performed one of these I will briefly describe.

"Wlien the company to which I belonged had landed on the
eastern shore of Sandy Lake, I immediately inquired for the
trail, seii'ed my gun, and startec: on ahead, hoping that I might
succeed in killing a few pigeons for supper. The path was well
beaten, the scenery interesting, and I went on with a light heart

8Ain)Y LAKE.

rr*'T.> J.'

Itod a head full of fantastic images bom of the wild forest. The

lonly creature in the way of game that I saw was a large red
deer, which suddenly startled me by a shrill snort, and bounded
away as if in scorn of my locomotive powei-s. Soon as my hair
was fairly settled to its natural smoothness on my head, (how
very uncomfortable it is to be frightened!) the deer made a dig-

jnified pause, and I attempted to draw near by dodging along

[behind the tress.

Soon as I was through dodging, I looked up and found that

I toy game was missing, and I therefore wheeled about to resume
my journey. My intention was reasonable and lawful, but then
arose the thought, what direction shall I pursue? The more I

[pondered the more my wonder grew, and, after a series of ineffec-
tual rambles, I finally concluded that I had lost my way, and
must spend the night, literally speaking, "in the wilderness alone."

I I now record my tale without a particle of emotion, but I can
tell you that my feelings and reflections on that occasion were

[uncomfortable in the extreme.

After wandering about the woods until my feet were blistered,

j I concluded to pitch my tent for the night, although the only

things I had with me to make me comfortable in my solitude,

were an unloaded gun, a horn half full of powder, and my shot

bag, empty of shot and balls. I happened to be in a deep

valley, which was entirely covered with pine-trees. One of them

Ihad two large branches that shot out together about a dozen feet

pom the ground, and as I hadno sure way of keeping off an enemy,

jl managed to climb up to them, and there spent the night, with-

|out once budging from my interesting roost, '

T was not visited by any goblins on that memorable night, but

Ithe actual miseries which ministered to me during the dark hours

[were very numerous. In the fii-st place, I had to watch the

leepening shadows of the evening, tormented by hunger , nd

'lirst. Instead of having an opportunity to satisfy my own

ippetite, it seemed as if all the musquitoes of the wilderness had

issembled together for the purpose of having a feast on my own

lesh and blood. But nature granted me a brief respite from

this tonnent, by causing a heavy shower to fall, wluch had a

ADVEXTUKES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

■■■,!(

i : i

tendency to cool my feverisli lips and brow, and allowed me a
lucid interval of sleep.

But this blessedness was soon ended; for in a fit of the night- 1
mare I had a very narrow escape from falling to the ground]
After I had fairly recovered mypcslf, and again drank in the
horrors of a musquito dirge, I almost made up my mind to drop I
at any rate, and thereby end my life and the enjoyment of my|
infernal enemies.

But there was soon another change in the character of my I
miseries. An immense owl had the impudence to perch himself I
on a limb above my head, whence he poured forth a flood of the!
most horrible screaming that mortal ever heard. Soon as the I
echoes thus awakened had melted into silence, a crackling!
sound fell upon my ear, and I beheld an old bear straggling along, j
as if he was sure of enjoying a feast of fresh meat.

He halted and snuffed around the base of a tree, which stood|
only a few yards distant from the one I occupied, and then con-
tinued on his way. He seemed to know that human feet had I
lately trodden the valley; but rationally concluding that no sen-
sible man would remain in that particular region any longer than I
he could possibly help it, he did not trouble himself about the!
scent he had discovered. I felt grateful towards the old savage!
for his unintentional politeness ; but if my gun had been loaded!
with only one ball, I should have favoured him with an unex-|
pected salute.

The hours which followed this event, and preceded the dawnJ
were the longest that I ever experienced. My wretchedness wasj
indescribable ; I wjs cold and hungry, and in a perfect fever fromj
want of sleep, and ;he insect poison infused into my whole body;!
but morning came at last, and with it the warm bright sunshine!
and the silence of tht; Sabbath; only a loud clear chorus of sweetest!
melody echoed through the pine forest valley, from the throats j
of a thousand feathered minstrels.

On descending from my elevated position, I ascended a high!
hill, from whose summit I could look down upon a beautifiilj
lake, where I saw my fellow-travellers all quietly afloat in their
^janoes. I loaded my gun with powder and fired a signal, which

SANDY LAKE.

was answered by a snout, that was far sweeter to my ears at that
particular moment than even the song of birds. When the
Indians who hsid been hunting after me had returned, and when
I resumed my seat :.n the canoe, and had a slice of cold pork be-
tween my fingers, I was quite happy, in spite of tlje many jokes
, cracked at my expense.

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA-

CHAPTER IX

THE ST. LOUIS RIVER.

Mouth op the St. Louis.

By looking on the map you will observe that this river enters
Lake Superior on the extreme west. I had not the means of j
ascertaining its precise length, but was told that above the sa-
vannah, where I struck it, it is an inconsiderable stream. From
that point to the lake it is a majestic river, and I should
suppose the distance to be nearly one hundred and fifty miles.
It has more the appearance of a wild New England river than
any other that I have seen in the western country. It is exceed-
ingly rocky, and so full of sunken boulders and dangerous rapids,
that it never could be made navigable further up than Fond
du Lac, which is twenty miles from Lake Superior. The water
is perfectly clear, but of a rich snuff colour, owing probably to the
swamps out of which it runs. It is said to rise and fall verj
suddenly. Its entire shores are without a solitary habitation
(excepting at the trading post already mentioned), and the
scenery is picturesque, wild, and romantic. But I hear the roar
of its glorious cataracts, and must attempt a description of them.

There is a place on this river called the Knife Portage, from
the fact that the rock^, of slate formation, are exceedingly dharp
R,nd pomted, where the stream forms a large bend, and where
the voyager has to make a portage of twelve miles. The length
of this bend may be sixteen miles, and in that distance the v,rater
has a fall of about three hundred and twenty feet. T}ie width
of the river may be from three to four hundred yards. At this
point (just above Fond du Lac) are three nameless waterfalls,
whose aggregate dimensions are indeed stupendous. The water
of one tumbles over a pile of pointed rocks, and after twisting

•v^-

THE ST. LOUIS RIVER.

I itself into every possible variety of falls and foaming streams,
finally murmurs itself to sleep in a pool eighty feet below the
summit whence it takes its first leap.

The principal fUU, or ^'ather cataract, is nearly one hundred
feet high, and the water a^ ^Imes rushes over almost in a solid
and unbroken body.

The walls of slate on either side are lofty, and " crowned with
a peculiar diadem of trees;" and as the roaring of the fall ia
deafening, its effect upon me was allied to that of Niagara. The
pools at the bottom appeared to be black and fathomless, but the
spray was whiter than snow, and the rainbows beautiful beyond
comparison. When I gazed upon the features of this superb
water -wonder, united as they were in one complete picture;
v/hen I listened to the scream of the eagle mingling with its roar,
and thought of the uninhabited wilderness in every direction
around me, I was deeply impressed.

I visited this cataract accompanied by a party of Indians, and,
owing to the length of time it took us to reach it, we were com-
pelled to spend the night in its immediate vicinity. We built
our watch-fire on the southern shore, in a sheltering bay, about
one hundred yards from the highest leap, and on a spot where we
could command a complete viev/ of the superb picture.

Our supper on that occasion was composed exclusively of veni-
son, as one of the party had succeeded in killing a deer in one of
his morning excursions; and though I had not epten for nine or
ten hours, I seemed to have lost my appetite, and took my food
merely as a matter of necessity. After our repast was ended, two
of the Indians lighted their birchen torches and jumped into a
canoe for the purpose of spearing fish.. I watched them with
peculiar interest, and saw them perform one feat which was truly
wonderftil. They had wounded an immense pike on a shoal, very
near a column of the falling element, when the stricken creature
floundered away into the foaming water, and the canoe darted on
in quick pursuit, as if its inmates were determined to capture or
die. One moment it seemed as if the torrent of water must be
pouring into the canoe, and the torches be extinguished, and then
again, I could only see a halo of light, looking like the sun rising

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

,:!iJ'

at midnight, as the fishermen glided behind a sheet of water or
a cloud of spray. They were successful in their sport, and finally
returned and laid their prize at my feet. The party then
enjoyed a pipe for about twenty minutes, when the younger In-
dians commenced playing their favourite moccasin game, and I
spent the remainder of the evening conversing with the chief and
patriarch of the band, from whom I gathered the following tradi-
tion respecting the cataract.

" More moons ago than I can count," said the old man, " the
country lying between the • j^ lake (Superior) and the place
where the sun goes down, was owned by the Sioux nation, which
was then immensely powerful. They were very cruel in their
warfare, and did every thing in their power to annihilate the
Chippeway nation. The Great Spirit was not their friend, but
ours; and once, when a multitude of their warriors were pursuing
some of our hunters down the river, the Great Spirit suddenly
kicked out tJie bottom in this place, and the principal enemies of
our nation were all destroyed. Since that time we have been tlie
possessors of this vast country, and the children of our ancient
enemies catch the bulSalo in a far distant prairie land."

With this legend deeply impressed on my mind (the telling of
which occupied my companion for nearly two hours) I ordered
more wood to be placed on the fire, and leaving the others to
take care of themselves, rolled myself in my blanket, and was
soon asleep. I was awakened only once during the night, and that
was by the distant howl of a wolf, mingling with the solemn
anthem of the cataract. I sat up for a moment to look upon the
scene, but the sky was covered with clouds, and it was exceed-
ingly dark. Even the embers of our watch-fire had ceased blazing.
Around me lay my companions in a deep sleep. Once more did
I listen to that dreadful howl, and that godlike voice of many
waters, until, like a frightened child, I hastily covered my head
and went to sleep. On the following morning we resumed our
journey in the midst of a rain storm ; the memory of that night
and that cataract, however, haunting me like a dream.

Another perpendicular fall within the bend I have mentioned,
is some two miles down the stream, and is only about fifty feet

THE ST. LOUIS RIVER.

in height, but its grandeur is somewhat enhanced hy tlie rapicfe
which succeeded it, and which liave a fall of some forty or ilfty feet
moiu An ohl trader tells me that I am the first traveller from
the states who lias ever taken the trouble actually to visit these
cataracts. If this is a fact, and as the Indians, so far as I can
learn, have never christened then, I claim the privilege of giving
them a name. Let them, then, be known hereafter as the Chippe-
way Falls. It is a singular circumstance that a pine-tree might
be cut in this interior wilderness, and if launched iii one of the
tributaries of the Mississippi, or in the St. Louis river, and
propelled by favourable winds alone, could, in process of time, be
planted in the hull of a ship at any seaport on the globe.

The navigable porlion of the St. Louis, as before remarked,
extends only about twenty miles from the lake, at which point
is the place legitimately called Fond du Lac. It is an ancient
trading post, and contains about half a dozen white inhabitants,
vi"., a worthy missionary and his interesting family. The agent
[ of the Fur Company and his assistants are half-breeds, and a
most godless set of people they are. It is a general rendezvous
for several Indian tribes, and when I was there was quite crowded
I with the barbarians.

Fond du Lac, so far as the scenery is concerned, is one of the
[most tinily delightful places that I ever met with in my life.
The first white man who traded here was the father of my friend
Mon'ison, after whom the higliest hill in the vicinity was named.
Upon this eminence I spent a pleasant afternoon, revelling over
a landscape of surpassing loveliness. Far below me lay an ex-
tensive natural meadow, on the left of which was a pretty lake,
and on the right a little hamlet composed of log cabins and bark
wigwams. The broad valley of the St. Louis faded away to
[the east, studded with islands, and protected on either side by a
range of high wood-crowned hills, beyond which reposed in its
I conscious pride the mighty lake-wonder of the world. The
jatmosphere which rested upon the whole scene seemed to halo
[every feature, and with the occasional tinkling of a solitary cow-
Ibell, combined to fill my heart with an indescribable pleasure.

Most of my rambles about this place were performed in com-

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

pany witli the missionary already mciitionod. He informed me
that the surrounding country abounded in rich copper ore, in
agates and cornelians of the first water, and that all the smaller
streams of the couptry afforded rare trout fishing. If this end
of Lake Suj^erior should become, as I doubt not it will, famous
for its mines, Fond du Lac would be a most agreeable place to
reside in, as it is easily reached by vessels. I was hospitably
entertained by this gentleman, and could not but contrast the
appearance of his dwelling with that of his neighbour, the French
trader. In the one you might see a small library, a large family
Bible, the floor covered with matting, tfec, a neat, tidy, and in-
telligent wife and children; in the other, a pack of cards, a bar-
rel of whisky, a stack of guns, and a family whose filthiness was
only equalled by the total ignorance of its various members.
And this contrast only inadequately portrays the difference
bet\veen Christianity and heathenism.

I left Fond du Lac about daybreak, with a retinue of some
twenty canoes, which were freighted with Indians bound to
a payment at La Pointe. It was one of those misty summer
mornings when every object in nature wears a bewitching aspect,
and her still small voice seems to whisper to the heart that it is
not the " whole of life to live, nor the whole of death to die," and
when we feel that God is omnipotent and the mind immortal.
But the scenery of this portion of the river is beautiful — beau-
tiful beyond any thing I had imagined to exist in any country
on the globe. The entire distance from Fond du Lac to this
place, as before mentioned, is not far from twenty miles. The
river is very broad and deep, and completely filled with wooded
islands, while on either side extends a ran.^e of mountains which
are as wild and solitary as when brought into existence.

Every member of the voyaging party seemed to be happy, and
we travelled at our ease, for the purpose of prolonging the enjoy-
ment of the voyage. At one time we landed at the base of a
clifi", and wliile I made a drawing or ransacked the shore for
agates and cornelians, and the young Indians clambered up a hill- 1
side for roots or berries, the more venerable personages of the j
party would sit in their canoes, quietly puffing away at their

-:i';..1:

THE ST. LOUIS RIVER.

pipes as they watched the movements of their younger com-
j)iUiions. Ever and anon might Lo heard the report of a gim, or
the whiz of an arrow, as we hai)peued to .pass the feeding-i)lace
of a flock of ducks, tlie nest of an eagle or raven, or the marshy
haunt of a musk-rat or otter. Now we surprised a couple of deer
swimming across the river, one of which the Indians succeeded
in capturing; and now we hauled up our canoes on a saudy
island, to have a talk with some lonely Indian family, the smoke
of whose wigwam had attracted our attention, rising from be-
I tweon the trees. Our sail down the river occupied us until about
ten o'clock, when we reached the mouth of the river, and disem-
barked for the purpose of preparing and eating our breakfast.
We landed on the river side of a long sandy point, and, while
the Indians were cooking a venison steak and a large trout, I
rambled over the sand hills, and as the sun came out of a cloud
and dissipated every vestige of the morning mist, obtained my
I first view of Lake Superior, where, above the apparently bound-
jless plain I could only discover an occasional gull wheeling to and
Ifro as if sporting with the sunbeams.

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERIOl.

CHAPTER X.

BECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIGAN.

On the River Baisht.

MiCHiSAWGYEGAN is the Indian name for the state of Michi-
gan, and the meaning of it is, the Lake Country. It is my native
state, and as I have recently visited it after an absence of more
than a dozen years, and as it is not yet entirely redeemed from
its original state of nature, it is meet, I ween, that I should,
while within its borders, wind up my echoes of the wilderness.
This is the country where I spent the morning of my days, —
the theatre where my future character in the drama of life was
formed and fir^ acted out. Remote from the glitter and noise
of the great human world, I used to wander alone through its
dark forests, and bathe in its pure streams, without a care or
thought to mar the peacefulness of life. A thousand words,
now full of meaning, and familiar to my ear, were then but un-
meaning sounds. Those were the days when I sported on the
lap of nature, feeling it to be a luxury to breathe. Will they
ever return? Ask that evening breeze whether it will ever again
cool the fevered brow of that dying man? But very dear to me
are my recollections of Michigan, and I would not part with
them for the treasures of the world.

The character of its scenery and people is as original as its ]
situation. Almost surrounded by water, it possesses all the]
advantages of an island, while at the same time it is but a small]
portion of a vast whole. Its streams are numerous and clear,
but generally sluggish. A portion of the extreme north is un-
inhabited by human beings, owing to its barrenness. Huge I
gi-anite mountains here loom upward in eternal solitude; some-
times presenting the appearance of having been severed asunder.

J' !

RECOLLECTIONS OP MICHIGAN.

and scattered around by some mighty convnlsiop of nature. On
the borders of the cold and desolate lakes thus formed, the crane
and bittern rear their young. Occasionally, on the brow of some
jutting crag, may be discovered the meagre hut of some poor
Indian. Perhaps a barbarous anchorite, to whom the voice of
his fellow-man is a grating sound, and to whom existence is but
a mist, a dream; or it may be some disgraced warrior, who has
been banished from friends and home, to dwell in this dreary
solitude, with no companions but a half-starved dog, rugged
pines, and frowning rocks. But this section is said to contain
the richest copper mine in the known world.

The surface of the western half is destitute of rocks, and un-
dulating; and it is here that the loveliest of lakes, and streams,
and prairies are to be found. Lake Michigan, the second in the
world, is its western boundary. The eastern portion is entirely
original in its appearance, possessing many beauties peculiarly
its own. It is so level and low, that a stranger, approaching it
from Lake Erie, is often surprised to find himself in port, while
in the act of looking out for land. This shore is watered by the
Huron, St. Clair, and Erie.

No one, who has never witnessed them, can form any idea of
the exquisite beauty of the thousand lakes which gem the western
part of Michigan. They are the brightest and purest mirrors the
virgin sky has ever used to adorn herself. Their banks are fre-
quently dotted by human dwellings, the humble though comfort-
able abodes of a sturdy yeomanry, '^hat one which takes its name
from an Indian called Baubeese, and which is the outlet of the St.
Joseph river, I will match against any other of its size in the world.

Notwithstanding what has been so often said by the artificial
inhabitants of cities, concerning the hardships and ignorance of
the backwoodsman's life, there is many a stout heart, exalted
mind, and noble soul, whose dwelling-place has been for years on
the borders of these very lakes. I know this to be true, for I
have slept beneath their roofs, and often partaken of their johnny-
cake and fat quails. No, — no. I love these men as brothei?s,
and shall always frown upon that cit or dandy who sets dow^
aught against them, — in malice or in ignorance.

/LDVENltJRES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

Some of these little lakes smile in perpetual solitude. One of
them is before me row. It is summer. The sun is above ita
centre. Deep anr' ark and still are the shadows of the surround-
ing trees and bushes. On the broad leaf of a water-lily a green
snake is coiled up, with his head elevated, and his tongue gleam-
ing in the sunlight. He is the enemy of aU flying insects and
little birds, and if you watch liim a moment longer you will see
one of them decoyed to death hy the power of his charm. Hush !
there is a stii- among the dry leaves. It is but a lonely doe
coming to quench her thirst. Is she net the Queen of Beauty]
There she stands, knee-deep in the water, looking downwards,
admiring the brightness of her eyes and the gracefulness of her
neck. How Leigh Hunt would enjoy a ramble here ! His
favourite flowers, — the rose, the violet, the lily, and the sweet-
brier, would each sing him a song more sweet and delicate than
their first. What bright hue is that in the middle of the lake?
It is but the reflection of

-" a vapour in the sky,

Thin, white, and very high."

A great proportion of Micliigan is covered with white-oak
openings. Standing oi> a gentle hill, the eye wanders away for
miles over an undulating surface, obstructed only by the trunks
of lofty trees, — above you a green canopy, and beneath, a carpet
of velvet grass, sprinkled with flowers of every hue and form.

The prairies are another interesting feature of Michigan scenery.
They meet the traveller at every point, and are of many sizes, seem-
ing often like so many lakes, being frequently studded with wooded
islands, and surrounded by shores of forests. Their soil is a deep
black sand. Grass is their natural production, although corn,
oats, and potatoes flourish upon them. Never can I forget the
first time I entered White Pigeon Prairie. Sleeping beneath
the shadows of sunset, as it was, the effect upon me was like
that which is felt on first beholding the ocean, — overpowering
awe. All that the poet has said about these gardens of the
desert, is true.

Burr-oah Plains. The only difference between these and the
oak openings, is the character of the trees and the evenness of

RECOLLECTIONS OP MICHIGAN.

their surface. The soil is a mixture of sand and black loam.
They have the appearance of cultivated orchards, or English
parks; and, on places where the foot of the white man has
never trod, a carriage and four could easily pass. They produce
both wheat and corn.

The wet prairies have the appearance of submerged land. In
them the grass is often six or seven feet high. They are the
resort of water-fowl, musk-rats, and otters.

But the best and most fertile soil in Micliigan is that desig-
nated by the title of timbered land. It costs more to prepare
it for the plough, but when once the soil is sown it yields a
thousand-fold. And with regard to their beauty and magnifi-
cence, the innumerable forests of this state are not surpassed by
any in the world, whether we consider the variety or grandeur
of their productions.

A friend of mine, now residing in western Michigan, and who
once spent several years in Europe, thus writes respecting this

' '• ', such trees as we have here 1 Magnificent, tall, large-leafed,
umbrageous. Vallombrosa, the far-famed Vallombrosa of Tus-
oany, is nothing to the thousand Vpllombrosas here ! A fig for
your Italian scenery ! This is the country where nature reigns
in her virgin beauty ; where trees grow, where corn grows ; where
men grow better than they do any where else in the world.
This is the land to study nature in all her luxuriant charms,
under glorious green branches, among singing birds and laughing
streams; tliis is the land to hear the cooing of the turtle-dove, in
far, deep, cool, sylvan bowers; to feel your soul expand under
the mighty influences of nature in her primitive beauty and
strength."

The principal inland rivers of Michigan are, the Grand River,
the Kalamazoo, the St. Joseph, the Saginaw, and the Raisin. Tho
first three empty into Lake Michigan, and are about seventy
miles apart. Their average length is about two hundred and
fifty miles, and they are about thirty or forty rods in width.
At present they are navigable about half their length for small
steamboats and bateaux. Theii* bed is limestone, covered with

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

pebbles. I was a passenger on board the Matilda Barnes/, on
her first trip, — the first steamer that ever p,«cendecl the St. Josepli,
which I consider the most perfectly beautiful stream that I have
ever seen. I remember well the many flocks of wild turkeys and
herds of deer, that the " iron horse" frischtened in his winding
career. The Indian canoe is now giving way to the more costly
but less beautiful row-boat, and those rivers are becoming deeper
and deeper every day. Instead of the howl of the wolf, the songs
of husbandmen now echo through their vales, where may be
found many comfortable dwellings.

The Saginaw nms toward the north, and falls into Lake
Huron, — that same Huron which has been celebrated in song by
the young poet, Louis L. Noble. This river is navigable for
sixty miles. The river Raisin is a winding stream, emptying
into Lake Erie, called so from the quantity of grapes that cluster
on its banks. Its Indian name is Numma-sepee, signifying River
of Sturgeons. Sweet river ! whose murmurs have so often been
my lullaby, mayest thou continue in thy beauty for ever.

Notwithstanding the comparative newness of Michigan, its
general aspect is ancient. The ruin of many an old fort may be
discovered on its borders, reminding the beholder of wrong and
outrage, blood and strife. This was once the home of noble but
oppressed nations. Here lived and loved the Algonquin and
Shawnese Indians ; the names of whose warrior chiefs — Pontiac
the proud, and Tecumseh the brave — will long be treasured in
history. I have stood upon their graves, which are marked only
by a blighted tree and an unhewn stone, and have sighed deeply
as I remembered their deeds. But they have gone, — gone like
the lightning of a summer day !

It is a traditionary land. For we are told that the Indian
hunters of old saw fairies and genii floating over its lakes and
streams, and dancing through its lonely forests. In these did
tliey believe, and to please them was their religion.

The historian* of this state thus writes, in alluding to the
olden times : " The streams rolled their liquid silver to the lake,
broken only by the fish that flashed in their current, or the swan
* Ja'.nes IL Lanaian, Esq., uncle to the Author. • '

RECOLLECTIONS OP MICHIOAX.

tliat floated upon their surface. Vegetation floii^ished alone.
Roses bloomed and died, only to be ti*ampled by the deer or
savage; and strawberries studded the ground like rubies, where
the green and sunny hillsides reposed amid the silence, like sleep-
ing infants in the lap of the forest. The rattlesnake glided
undisturbed through its prairies; and the fog, which hung in
clovtds over its stagnant marshes, spread no pestilence. The
panther, the fox, the deer, the wolf, and bear, roamed fearless
through the more remote parts of the domain, fur there were
none to dispute with them their inheritance. But clouds
tliickentd. In the darkness of midnight, and silence of the
wilden.>f.ss, the tomahawk and scalping-knife were forged for
their work of death. Speeches were made by the savages under
tlie voiceless star:?,, which were heard by none save God and their
allies; and the war-song echoed from the banks of lakes where
had never been heard the footsteps of civilized man."

Then followed the horrors of war ; then and there were enacted
tlie triumphs of revenge. But those sounds have died away ; and
those deeds are traced only on the page of history. The voice of
rural labour, the clink of the hammer, and the sound of Sabbath-
bells now echo in those forests and vales. The plough is making
deep furrows in its soil, and the sound of the anvil is in every
part. A well-endowed University, and seminaries of learning
are there. Railroads and canals, like veins of health, are gliding
to its noble heart. The red man, in his original grandeur and
state of nature, has passed away from its more fertile borders; and
his bitterest enemy, the pale face, is master of his possessions.

Tii*^ French were the first who settled in Michigan, and at as
early a date as 1620, and for many years, they and the Indians
were the sole inhabitants. Here it was that the far-famed Jesuit
missionaries first pitched their touts in (what is now) the United
States. Now, people out of every civilized nation dwell within
its borders. Detroit, on the superb river of that name, and
Frenchtown, on the river Raisin, were both founded by the
French. The former of these is a city, a flourishing city, of
fifteen thousand inhabitants, where are to be foimd all the
elegancies and luxury of the most polite society. Its principa'^

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

street would be an ornament in any city ; its elevation is some
fifty feet above the water, and from its docks, the eye wanders
over a scene not unlike that visible from the North River side of
the Empire city. Like most cities, it appears to the best advan-
tage in winter. Then it is that you may often witness the
beautiful Detroit river frozen like maible, and on its surface
hundreds of sleiglis and skaters gliding in every du-ection ; wliile
a chorus of bells comes faintly and sweetly to your ear. Monroe,
is the modern name for Frenchtown. It is situated about two
miles from Lake Erie, and is also a flourishing town, containing
some four thousand inhabitants, a goodly portion of whom are
the descendants of the early settlers. Detroit and Monroe, are
two of the best wheat markets in the western country. Ann-
Arbor, on the Huron, is the New Haven of Michigan, and
possesses many attractions in the way of intelligent people, pic-
turesque scenery, and handsome buildings. Niles, on the St.
Joseph, is a most difficult place to pass through, for the traveller
always feels an irresistible impulse to remain there for ever, — it
is so charmingly situated, on such a charming stream, and in-
habited by such charming people. But I might sing this song
under the head of Kala?nazoo, Ypsilanti, Tecumseh, Adrian,"
Pontiac, Grand Rapids, Jackson, Battle Creek, and twenty other
thriving villages, which are all surrounded by a fine agricultural
country. I cannot now dwell upon such themes. Numma-sepee
Is ringing in my ear, and my thoughts are with my body, on the
river, and in the village, where I was born. Here I am, after
an absence of many years, a visiter, and to half the people a
stranger, on the very soil where I spent my wild and happy boy-
hood. I will not touch upon the improvements that meet me
at every turn, nor upon the troops of friends that surround
my heart is with the village of other days, not with the busMI
city of the present time ; and as to my friends, I thank them for
their kindness, but they are not of my kindred ; they are changed,
and I can only look upon them as strangers. Reader, as you
love to remember the sunny days of your own life, I invite you
to listen to i. ly words, as I attempt to summon from the past an
array of my ioost dearly-cherished recollections. >>

r^ECOLLECTIONS OF UICIIIOAK.

Judging from the many accounts I have heard, the spot now
occupied by Monroe must have been, before the last 'War, one of
the most delightful nooks in the wide world. Its original name, as
before stated, ' 'a Frenchtown, and its only inhabitants were
French, who had emigrated thither from France by the way of
Canada. The families did not number more than about fifty,
and the names of the most conspicuous were Navarre, Duval,
Beaubien, Bourdeaux, Couture, Nadeau, Bannac, Cicot, Campau,
Jobien, Godfroy, LrsscUo, Corsenau, Labadee, Durocher, Robert,
Lacroix, Dausette, Loranger, Sancomb, and Foumiet. They
inhabited what might be called an oa^ds in the wilderness.
Their farms all lay directly- upon either side of the river, and
though principally devoted to agricultural pursuits, they were
content with but a few acres of cleared land, and beyond these,
on either hand, stood the mighty forests in their original solitude
and luxuria^.oe. Along their doors glided the ever-murmuring
Baisin, v/hose fountain-head was then among the things unknown,
and its waters mingled with those of Erie, without being dis-
turbed by the keel of any steamboat or white-winged vessel.
Comfort and beauty characterized their dwellings, and around
them grew in g'V'^'^'v abundance domestic trees, that yielded the
most delicious fruits. In their midst stood a little chapel, over-
grown with ivy and surmounted by a cross, where the Jesuit mis-
sionaries or Catholic priests performed their religious duties. The
soft-toned bell that summoned them to worship, was not without
its echoes, but they dwe] t far away upon the sleeping lake or in the
bosom of the surrounding wilderness. Here the tumult of the
great human world was never heard, and money and fame were not
the chief desire of the secluded husbandman, for he was at ease
his possessions. Indians, the smoke of whoso wigwams

ascended to heaven on every side, were the only people with
whom the early settlers had intercourse; from them they obtained
valuable furs, by barter, which they sent to Montreal, receiving
in exchange the necessaries and riany of the luxuries of life.
They maintained the habits which were brought from the pro-
vinces whence they emigrated. The gentleman preserved
the garb of the age of Louis XIV., while the peasant wore

ADVENTURES IN TI£E WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

a long surtout, sash, red cap, and deer-skin moccasins. Their
knowledge of agriculture was veiy limited, and the policy of
the ftir trade was calculated to keep down the spirit of im-
provement in that respect. Of corn and wheat they were
aiixious only to raise enough to last them during the year.
A surplus of any thing but fiirs they did not desire, and never
possessed. Their grain was ground in windmills, whose
picturesque features added to the poetry of their scenery. Their
amusements were confined to the sound of the violin, at their
unaiFected assemblies.

The forest afforded them an abundance of game, which con-
stantly led them to the hunt, and their beautii'ul stream abounded
in fish, which they captured with the net, the hook, and the
spear. A dreamy summer atmosphere seems to rest upon this
region, when viewed in the light of the olden times. There was
poetry in every thing which met the eye : in the pi'iest, with
cowl and satin vestments, kneeling before a wooden cross, on his
way to the place of prayer ; in the peasant, as he performed his
rural labours, attended by his wife and playful children; in the
rude Indians, with fantastic costumes, who were wont to play
their imcouth games on the greensward, or fierform their dexter-
ous feats in the bark canoe; in the sky, which smiled perpetually
upon the virgin wilderness; and in that wildertiess, whose
peculiar features verily blossomed as the unplucked rose. And
there was poetry in all that fell upon the ear; in the lowing of
the cattle, and the tinkling of their bells; in the gentle flowing
waters, and the sound of the summer wind, as it sported with
the forest trees, and wandered away, laden with the perfume of
nameless flowers; in the singing of unnumbered birds, which
ascended to the skies in a perpetual anthem; and in the loud
dear laugh of French and Indian children, as they mingled to-
gether in their simple games. But those patriarchal days are
for ever departed! In another part of the country, Tecumseh
I'ontiac were beginning to figure in successive battles against
L United States, and their hostile spirit soon manifested itself
upon this frontier. The Indians upon this river became the
enemies of the settlers, which event turned out to be the prelud")

RECOLLECTIONS OP MICHIGAN.

is. Their

policy of
Irit of im-
Ihey were
I the year,
lind never
whose
Their
1, at their

liich coD-
abounded
k, and the
upon this
There was
viest, with
OSS, on his
formed his
en; in the
'nt to play
leir dexter-
3erpetually
9SS, whose
ose. And
5 lowing of
tie flowing
orted with
perfume of
ds, which
the loud
lingled to-
days are
Tecumseh
ies against
sted itself
came the
le prelud-)

to a storm of war that scattered death and desolation along its
path. But many years have fled since then, and the blossings*
of peace and prosperity are now resting upon our country.

The poor Indians have almost withered from the land, and
those French inhabitants, like all things eartlily, are on their way
to the land of forgetfulness. Another race of men succeeded
here, and can be numbered by thousands ; and where once ex-
tended the dominion of the wilderness, a business city now looka
down upon the river, which has become an adopted servant of
commerce.

I cannot refrain from here quoting the following passage from
Charlevoix, descriptive of the scenery asi it existed when he
passed through this region in seventeen hundred and twenty-one:

" The first of June, being the day of Penteccst, after having
sailed up a beautiful river (the Raisin) for the space of an hour,
which has its rise, as they say, at a great distance, and runs be-
twixt two fine meadows, we passed over a carrying place of
about sixty paces in breadth, in order to avoid turning round a
point which is called Long Point. It is a very sandy spot of
ground, and naturally bears a great quantity of vines. The
following days I saw nothing remarkable, but coasted along a
charming country, hid at times by disagreeable prospec is, wliich,
however, are of no great extent. Wherever I went ashore, I
was enchanted by the beauty and variety of a landscape,
terminated by the noblest f'H'ests in the whole world. Add to
this, that every part of it swarms with water-fowl. I cannot say
whether the woods afford game iii equal profusion. "Were wo
all to sail, as I there did, with a serene sky, in a most charming
climate, and in water as clear as that of the purest fountain;
were we sure of finding every where as secure and agreeable
places to pass the night in, where we might enjoy the pleasures
of hunting at a small expense, breathe at our ease of the purest
air, and enjoy the prospect of the finest of countries, we might
be tempted to travel to the end of our days. How many oaks
represented to me that of Mamre ! How many fountains put me
in mind of that of Jacob ! Each day a new situation, chosen at
pleasure, a neat and commodious house built and furnished with

ADVENTUBES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

all necessaries in less than a quarter of au hour, and floored with
a pavement of flowers, continually springing up on a carpet of
the most beautiful green; — on all sides simple and natural
beauties, unadultcvated and inimitable by art."

In this region 1 spent my wild and wayward boyhood. In
the prime of summer T have watched for pigeons on the margin
of the forest springs; in the strangely beautiful autumn and
Indian summer, I have captured the squirrel and partridge ; and
in the winter the turkey and the deer. Reader ! have you ever,
while roaming in the woods bordering a prairie, startled from his
heathery couch a noble buck, and seen him dart from you, " swift
as an arrow from a shivering bow?" Was it not a sight worthy
of a purer world than ours? Did you not hail him " king of
the beautiful and fleet?"

There is one hunting incident which I met with when about
fourteen years of age, that I can never forget. I had entered
upon a cow-path, and as it led through so niany and such
beautiful places, I forgot myself and wandered on until tne
shadows of evening warned me of my situation. Great oaks and
hickories, and walnut-trees, were with me wherever I went.
They cast a spell upon me like that which is wrought by the old
of other days. The black night came at last, and there I was,
alone, and lost in that silent wilderness. Onward still did I
continue, and even in my great fear was at times startled by the
flapping of an owlet^s wing, or the howl of a wolf. The stars
were above, shining in their brightness, but invisible to me, so
closely woven were the tops of the trees. Faintly glimmering
in the distance, I saw a firelight, and on coming near, found a
party of Indians encamped. My breast panted with excessive
fear, and yet I could not speak — could hardly breathe, and still
my mind was free and active. I stood and listened to the faint
sound of a distant waterfall. Would that I had power to ex-
press the emotions that came like a flood pouring into my soul.
Covered by a blanket, and pillowed by a mocuck of sugar, each
Indian was asleep upon his rush-mat. Parents, children, and
friends, promiscuously disposed, though all of them with their
feet turned toward the expiring embers. The dogs, too, looking

RECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIGAN.

ferocious and cunning as wolves, wore all sound asleep. I stole
softly into the midst of the wild company, and covering myself
with an old blanket, strange to say, I slumbered. When morn-
ing c'lnie, and the Indians discovered a pale-faced boy among
them, their astonishment can be more easily conceived than de-
scribed. I at length informed them by signs that I was lost, and
that my home was in the village of Monroe. I partook with them
of a hearty breakfast, composed of venison, hommony, and water,
and ere the sun had mounted high, was on my way homeward,
with an Indian for my guide. As we parted on the outskirts of
the village, I offered to pay him for his trouble, but he declined
receiving any thing. I turned round, and the thick forest
shielded him from my sight. Of course my friends were much
concerned at my absence, and tlie majority of them insisted
upon my having been drowned. For one whole week after this
adventure, I was comj)elled to stay at home ; but after that it
was forgotten, and I was in the forests again.

But my heart-song of other days is just beginning, and I can-
not yet drop my pen. My fathers residence. was upon one of
the old French farms, that were once so famous for their
Arcadian beauty. The hand of improvement has despoiled them
of their original glory, and the strange, gaudy scenes that I now
behold, only tend to oppress my spirit with gloom. The city
dwellings around me I cannot see, for my mind is upon the
village of my birth. The farm alluded to above, was about half
a mile in width, and extended back to the distance of nearly two
miles. Leaving the river and going back, you first pass through
an orchard containing four or five hundred trees. * Here a row of
splendid pear-trees, and there a regiment of old black apple-trees,
staggering under their weight of fruit. Entering a little enclosure
behind a barn, you might see fifty small light-green trees, with
an innumerable number of rosy-cheeked peaches under their
leaves. And now we pass the great cider-press, where I was
wont to imbibe the rich American wine through an oaten straw.
A little further on, we come to a green pasture, where there are
cows, oxen, sheep, and horses grazing; onward still, and a wheat-
field, yellow as gold, bowing before the breeze. Then our path

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

lies across a pleasant meadow, watered by a sparkling stream ;
and after a brief walk we find ourselves in the forest, dark and
gloomy. And such was -the spot where I spent the morning of
my days. Is it strange, then, that a deep and holy love for
nature should be rooted in my heart?

That description reminds me of another hunting expedition,
of which I would merely give an outline. It is early morning,
and the latter part of spring. Breakfast is ended. My cap and
buckskin shirt are on, the latter gathered round my waist by a
scarlet worsted belt. My powder-horn and shot-pouch are filled
with the nicest kind of ammunition, and in my hand is my
valued little gun (bought expressly for myself), polished bright
as a sunbeam. I have kissed the baby, and am now on my
winding way. At the mouth of the river, I borrow a canoe of
some old Frenchman who resides there. If I were to offer him
pay he would not accept it; for the interesting reason that he
" knows my father." — All the day long have I been hunting, and
revelling in a dream-land of my own. The sun is in the west,
and I am hungry^ I have paddled around many a green and
lovely island, and explored many a bayou and marsh, and out-
lets of creeks ; frightening from her lonely nest many a wild-duck
and her brood. My shot-pouch is now empty, although the
bottom of my canoe is covered with game. There are five
canvass-backs, three teals, three plovers, two snipes, one wood-
duck, and other kinds of waterfowl. The canoe is drawn up on
shore, and with my thanks I have given old Robert a couple of
ducks. My game is now slung upon my back, and I am home-
ward bound, proud as a young king. While passing through
the village (for I have to do so), I hear a voice exclaiming,
"Lally ! Lally !" I approach, and find my father and several other
gentlemen seated at the post-office door talking politics. Each
one in turn gives me a word of praise, calling me " quite a hun-
ter." I pay them for their kindness on the spot, by the donation
of a canvass-back, and pass on.

That evening my supper is a rare enjoyment, for some of the
ducks have been cooked under the especial charge of my mother.
A little longer, and I am in the land of dreams. Many, very

REC0LLECTI0X8 OF MICHIGAN.

many such daya have I enjoyed, but now they are far from
me.

Fishing ia another art in which I was considered an adept,
When the first warm daya lured the sturgeon and muskalonge
from their deep home in the bosom of tlie lake, to ascend the
Raisin, I was always among the first on the large platform below
a certain milldam (now all washed away), with spear in hand
and heart to conquer. Many a noble sturgeon, six and seven
feet long, have I seen extended on the shore. As for me, I only
aimed at the smaller ones. Once, however, my spear entered
the back of a " whopper,^' and my determination to keep hold was
nearly the cause of my being drowned. It must have been a
thrilling, yet a ridiculous sight, to see me a straddle of the fellow,
and passing down the river like lightning. I think if Mr.
William Shakspeare had been present, he wo'ild havt; exclaimed,
— "Lo, a mev-man on a sturgeons back!" It I could enjo\ lucli
sport now with the feelings of my boyhood, I would wiUiagly
risk such a ducking every day. But I am now a straggler
amid the waves of life. O, how many long and nev»T-to-be-for-
gotten Saturday afternoons have I mused away on the margin
of my native stream. How many perch, and bass, sun-fish, and
pike, and pickerel, have I brought from their pure element to
place upon my father's table! But those days rre for ever de-
parted, all and for ever — gone into their graves, bearing with
them all my dreams, all my hopes and fond anticipations.
Desolate indeed does it make my heart, to look upon the changes
that have taken place in the home of my boyhood. Kind words
do indeed fall upon my ear, but I fee' i.yself to be a stranger or
as one forgotten. O, I am "

*' A homeless wanderer thrf^ugh my early home ;
Gone childhood's joys., and not a joy to come!"

Dana.

But let me, while I may, recall a few more bright visioas
from the past.

Ay, even now into the chambers of my soul are entering an
array of winter pictures, associated with the times of the days of
lold. . .

ADVENrURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

■i ■

True as memory itself, by every thing that meets the eye of
my fancy, I perceive that winter has asserted his empire over
my native village. Once more am I a bounding snd happy boy,
and planning a thousand excursions to enjoy the merry season.
The years, between the present and that happy time, are vanished
into forgetfiilness, and it seemeth to me that I am even now
panting with the excitement of a recent battle in the snow.

Last night, so my fancy tells me, there was a heavy fall of the
white element. This morning, while walking along one ot the
streets of the village, a snowball liit me on the back, whereupon
I jumped into an attitude of defiance. Partly hidden by a
neighbouring fence, I discover a group of roguish boys, whom I
immediately favour with an answer to their salute. Eight is
the number of my temporary enemies, and as they leap the fence
and come into full view, my heart begins to quail, and I feel a
scampering sensation in my Jieels. Just in the " nick of time,"
however, half a dozen of my friends happen to come to my
relief, when a couple of shouts ascend to heaven, and the
battle commences. Round, hard, swiftly thrown, and well-aimed
are che balls that fly. Already, from many a window, fair and
smiling spectators are looking upon us, and each one of us fancies
himself to be another Ivanhoe. The combat deepens. One
fellow receives a ball directly in the ear, and away he reels
" with a short uneasy motion." * And then, as a stream of blood
issues from the nose of one, and the eyes of another are made to see
stars, maddening frenzy seizes upon the whole gang — the parties
clinch, — and the " rubbing" scene is in its prime, with its struggles
and sounds of suffering. One poor fellow is pitched into a snow-
drift, heels over head, while his enemy almost smothers him with
hands-full of soft snow, causing his writhing countenance to glisten
with a crimson hue; another, who had been yelling at a
tremendous rate over a temporary triumph, is suddenly attacked
by a couple of our party, who pelt him furiously, until he cries
out most lustily — " I beg, I beg," when he is permitted to retire
with his lan>".;l3. • One chap receives a stinger of a blow between
his peepers, accompanied by an oath, whereupon we know that
there is too much passion in the fray, and while the victims

RECOLLECTIONS Of MICHIGAN.

enter upon a regular -fisticuff, we find ic necessary to ran to their
rescue and separate them. Thus the general battle ceases. After
coming together, declaring ourselves good friends, and talking
over the struggle, we collect our scattered caps, mittens, and
tippets, and quietly retire to our respective homes. . ^

Time f?.ies on, — we have had a protracted rain, the streets
have been muddy, the people dull, — but now fair weather cometh
out of the north, and the beautiful river Raisin is again sheeted
in its icy mail. For i a week past great i^reparations have been
made by some two dozen boys for a skating excursion to a certain
lighthouse on Lake Erie, situated about ten miles from Monroe.
We have seen that our skates are in fii-st-rate order, and Tom
Brown (an ancient negro, who was the " guide, counsellor, and
friend," of every Monroe boy) has promised to awaken us all, and
usher in the eventful morning by a blast from his old tin horn ;
so that when bed-time comes, we have nothing to do but say our
prayers and enjoy a refreshing sleep. Strange that I should
remember these trifling events so distincjtly! But there they
are, deeply and for ever engraven on the tablet of my memory,
together with thousands of others of a kindred character. Their
exalted mission is to cheer my heart amid the perplexities of the
world.

It is the break-of-day, and bitter cold. The appointed signal
hath been given ; — the various dreams of many a happy youth
are departed ; each one hath partakea of a hearty breakfast, and
tlie whole party are now assembled upon the ice " below the
bridge." Then follows the bustle of preparation. While some
are tardy in buckling on their skates, others slap their hands
together to keep them warm, while some of the smartest and
most impatient rogues are cutting their names, or certain fantastic
figures, as a prekide to what we may expect from them in the
way of fine skating. Presently we are drawn up "in a line to
Hsten to the parting words of " Snowball Tom." At the con-
clusion of his speech, a long and loud blast issues from the old
tin horn, which we answer by a laugh and a louder shout, and
like a band of unbroken colts, we spring to the race upon the
icy plain. Away, away, away! Long and regular are tha

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

sweeps we take, and how dolefully does the poor river groan as
the ice cracks from shore to shore, as we flee over its surface
"like a rushing mighty wind!" Keen, and piercingly cold is
the morning breeze, but what matter? Is not the blood of health
and happy boyhood coursing through our veins'? Now we glide
along the shore, frightening a lot of cattle driven to the river by
a boy; or the horses of some farmer, who is giving them their
morning drink; now we pass the picturesque abodes of the
Canadian peasantry, pa:rtly hidden by venerable trees, though now
stripped of their leafy honours ; now we give chase to a surprised
dog returning from the midnight assassination of some helpless
sheep; now we pass the last vestige of humanity upon the river,
which is the log cabin of an old French fisherman and hunter ;
and now we pass a group of little islands, with a thick coating of
snow upon their bosoms, and their ten thousand beautiful bushes
and trees whispering to the air of the surrounding silence.
Already have we more than measured the distance of two leagues
outside of Pleasant Bay, and our course is now on the broad
bosom of Lake Erie, with an unbroken field of solid ice before us
ikr as the eye can reach. The frozen pavement along which
our skates are ringing is black as the element beneath, and so
transparent, that where the water is not more than ten or twenty
feet in depth, we can distinctly see sunken logs, clusters of slimy
rocks, and herds of various kinds of fish, balancing themselves in
sleep or darting about their domain in sport. But these delicious
pictures are for some other time, — we are speeding with the
breeze and cannot tarry. Away, — away, — away !
• But what means that sudden wheel of our leader, as with his
voice and upraised hands he summons us to halt? Half a mile
on our lee, and about the same distance from the shore he has
just discovered an assembly of men, with their horses and sleighs
at a stand, as if preparing for a race. Without a moment's hesi-
tation we decide to be " on hand," and in a few minutes are
cutting our capers in the midst of a hundred Canadians, who
are about to enjoy what we predicted. Beautiful and fantastic
carrioles are here, drawn by sleek and saucy-looking Canadian
pacers, and occupied by hard-fisted men enveloped in their

BECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIGAN.

4r^t ?,-

.j.^

■ i
1

■

.
i

biiflyo-robes, whom we recognize as friends. Here we notice
one Beaubien, with his pony of glossy black, which has never yet
been beaten, and are told that the race is to be between him and
an entire stranger, who has accepted a recently-made challenge.
To the stranger we turn, and find his horse to be a beautiful bay,
and of a more delicate build than the Canadian champion.
The race is to be two miles in length, and the amount of the beb
five hundred dollars. All things being ready, the competitors
move slowly to the starting-place with their witnesses, while the
concourse of people await in breathless anxiety the result of the
race. Hark 1 hear you not the clattering of hoofs, resounding
tar over the plain, as if in search of an echo? Ay, and with
wondrous speed they are coming! How exciting is the scene!
In three minutes more the contest will be ended. See!-—
Beaubien is ahead, and the victory undoubtedly his ! But now
the stranger tosse.:J up his cap, and as it falls, the flying pacer
understands the signal — he increases his already almost match-
less speed, he passes the Frenchman with a look of triumph in.
his eye, — one minute more, — and the unknown is triumphant.
Most unexpected is the result. The people are bewildered and
perplexed, but when Beaabien delivers up the lost money, not a
word escapes him, and he seems to be broken-hearted. His
darling steed has bcca eclipsed, the swiftest pacer in all the
country does not belong to him, and he is miserable. The sport
ended, and not caring for the jabbering of a band of excited
Frenchmen, we come together again, and continue on our course.
Another hour do we wLile away along the lake shore, now
pausing to get a little breath, and now gazing with curious eyes
into the gloomy forest (which comes to the very water's edge) as
we glide along. At twelve o'clock we have reached the desired
haven, our feet are gladly released, and we are the welcome
guests of mine host of the lighthouse. 'By some, the peculiar
features of the lonely place are examined, while others, wlio
have an eye for the grand in nature, ascend to the top of the
lighthouse for a view of the frozen lake — reposing in unbroken
solitude. The curiosity of all being satisfied, we assemble in the
comfortable parlour of our entertainer, Mr. Whipple, and awaife

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMEItlCA.

the dinner-hour. A jolly time then follows; — many a joke is
cracked, and many a twice-told legend of the wilderness related;
n. sumptuous dinner is enjoyed; the evening houi-s approaching,
we begin to think of home, and by the time the heavens are
flooded with the light of the moon and stars, we ^lave taken our
departure, and are upon our skates once more. Without meet-
ing with a single accident, elated by many a gay song on our
way, and wicu our thoughts mostly bent upon the "spacious
firmament Ou . ^^Jh," we glide over the frozen wave, and at the
usual hour u/e in our warm beds, anticipating a .dream of those
things for whicli our several hearts are panting.

Hardly a week has elapsed before we have another heavy fall
of snow, and the principal topic of conversation among the
young people of the village is a sleigh-ride. The boys, about
this time, are making themselves wonderfully useful in their
fathers' stables, taking good care of the horses, examining the
sleighs, collecting the buifalo-robes, and polishing the bells;
while the girls are busily engaged upon their hoods, cloaks, muffs,
Lad moccasins, and wondering by whom they will be invited.
The long wished-for day has arrived. Farewell's Tavern, ten
miles up the river Raisin, is our place of destination. The
cheerful sun is only about an hour high, when there is heard a
merry jingling of bells in the village streets. Our cavalcade
numbers some half-dozen well-filled sleighs, and one single-seated
carriole occupied by Abbe Somebody and the Chief' Marshal of
the expedition, — the writer of this rhapsody.

My black trotter was never in finer spirits, and it is as much
as I can do to hold him in, as with his neck beautifully arched
he bears upon the bit. He seems to know that his youthful
master has but one dearer friend upon earth, who is the " bonnie
lassie " at his side. Many and tender are the words then spoken/
and the wide world before our youthful fancies is the home only
of perpetual i)leasure3. Far, very far from our minds are all the
stern realities of life. We hear the flail of the industrious farmer
in his barn, but do not dream of the great 'truth that mankind
are born to labour and grow old with trouble. We look upon a
poverty-stricken and fjr,sak:en Indian, with his family, trudgiug

RECOLLECTIONS OP MICHIGAN.

across the snowy landscape, and grateftilly reflect upon the
comforts of our own homes, and sigh for the miseries of the poor.
Youth makes us forgetful of the real future, and the dawning of
love opens our hearts to every tender influence, and we resolve,
hereafter, to be very kind to the unfortunate. The shades of
evening are descending upon the earth, and with thoughtfulness
we gaze upon the quiet pictures of the roau, the sea^son, and the
hour. We pass a wooden cross with its covering of snow, which
was planted by Jesuit missionaries a centmy ago, and think of
Him whom we have been rightly taught to worship and adore.
Farmers are foddering their cattle, boys are carrying in hu^e
ar^rsful of dry hickory for a roaring fire, and cheerful lights are
gleaming from the windows of the farm-houses as we pass along.
Finally, the comfortable dwelling where we would be meets our
gaze, seeming to smile upon us, with its various lighted windows,
and clouds of smoke ascending heavenward, when, with a few
flourishes of whips, and a terrible din of bells, the sleighing party
comes to a halt before the tavern of friend Farewell.

The upper rooms of the dwelling are all ready for our reception,
and while the gii'ls are ushered into them, the boys are attending
to the comforts of their faithful horses. In due time, after we
have arranged the prelindnnries for supper, we join the girls
again, and in solid body make our appearance in the spacious
ball-room. A musician is already there, in the person of an
ancient negro, who te .Is us that his fiddle is in prime order. But
dancing is an idea of v/hich we had not dreamed, for we are
utterly ignorant of the polite accomplishment. But music we
are resolved to have, and doubt not but it will greatly add to our
enjoyment of the various games which we purpose to play. Now
have the happy voices of the pai-ty risen to a noisy height, as we
take hold of hands and commence the game of Drop the Handker-
chief, while many a race around the slippery floor is run, and
many a sweet kiss is given and returned. Then succeeds the
play of Button, wherein the forfeits are redeemed by making
'•wheelbarrows," "measuring tape and cutting it oflf," and by
" bowing to the wittiest, kneeling to the prettiest, and kissing the
one we love be^t." Then the stories of the Stage-Coach have their

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

m^.Mi

turn, which create a perfect tumult of laughter. After which
we have Blimlman's Buff, and one poor creature after another is
made to gropo about the room in Egyptian darkness. Such are
the plays, with many more of like character, which we enjoy,
while our sable fri -nd is straining away at liiy old fiddle, as if
determined to bo heard above the surroij.ndii)g ciaiiiour of talking,
laughing, and j inging voices.

The supper hour having arrived, a gsnieiiil aclj^rrnraon.., takes
place, when tb o unnumbered good things of the table are appro-
priated to their legitimate use. lialf an hour is then allotted
"to the young ladies to get r^'ady, and by nine o'clock the sleighs
are at the door, and after a delightful ride of an hoivi. in the clear
moonlight, we are at our village homes, and tlie memory of our
sleisrh-i'ide commences its existence.

One, two, and perliaps three weeks have I been confined at
scliool, 'A'lien t])e notion pops into my head that I must go
a-hui! lir '.J, for my sporting friend, Frnucis Bannac (a Frenchman)^
lias to] d me th at game is now quite abundant. My father has grant-
ed me his permission, and Bannac telL-< me that I may be his com-
panion on a tramp of nine miles to the head-waters of Plum Creek.
A pack of wolves, of whose depredations we have heard, are the
principal game we have in view. Plaving finished the usual
preliminaries of a winter hunt, and arrayed ourselves accordingly,
we seize our rifles, whistle to our greyhounds, and with the sun
midway up the heavens start upon the tramp. A walk of
twenty minutes brings us to the edge of the forest, where we
strike an ancient Indian trail and proceed on our way. A gorgeous
landscape-panorama is that through which we are passing, and
ourselves, I ween, the most appropriate and picturesque figures
that could be introduced. Foremost is the tall and sinewy person
of Bannac, with a snugly-fitted buckskin garment tightened round
his waist by a wampum belt, cowhide moccasins on his feet,
coonskin cap on his black head, pouch and powder-horn, together
with knife and tomahawk, at his side, and in his right hand a
heavy rifle. Next to him trotteth the deponent, who might be
looked upon as a miniature Bannac, with variations, — wliile a
little in our rear are the two hounds playing with each other, or

RECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIGAN.

iraen.,, takes

standing still and looking among the trees for game. All around
us is a multitudinous army of forest soldiers, from tho youtliful
maple or ash, to the rugged and storm-scathed oak or bass-wood ;
and marvellously beautiful to my mind is the tracery of their
numberless branches against the blue sky, though my friend
would probably liken those very tree-tops to the head of some
"loafer" that had never made use of a comb. The earth is
covered with a thick coating of dead leaves, with here and there
a little island of snow. Now we perceive a beautiful elm lodged
in the giant branches of an old walnut, like a child seeking consola-
tion in the arms of its father; and now we come to a deformed
beech-tree, prostrate upon the earth, with its uncouth roots
wasting to decay, and the idea enters my mind that such will
eventually be the destiny of all Falsehood. The woods in winter
are indeed desolate. The green leaves are no longer here to in-
fuse into our hearts a portion of their happiness, as they " clap
tlieir hands in glee," and the joyous birds of summer are not here
to make melody in their own hearts, as well as ours. True, that
monses jf varied hue and texture are on every side, and in their
Icv^e enveloping stumps, rocks, trunks, and branches, yet they
remind us of the pall and shroud. What footsteps do we hear,
and why do the hounds start so suddenly? We have frightened
a noble buck; but a moment has elapsed and he is beyond our
reach. The hounds, however, are close behind him already, and
the three are bounding away in splendid style, illustrating to
perfection the poetry of motion. We fancy that the race will be
a short one, and therefore start in pursuit, managing to keep
in sight of our game. Heavens ! what a leap was that over those
fallen trees ! but the hounds have done their duty, and the course
is once more clear. A lot of ravens far up in the upper air seem
to be watching our movements, as if hoping for a meal of venison,
— and a grey eagle flies screaming across our path, as if to mock
us for being without wings. Glossy black squirrels peep out of
their holes in wonder at the commotion, and a flock of w;ild
turkeys which we have alarmed, are running from us in great
confusion, like a company of militia before a cavalcade of horse-
men* But see! the buck has turned upon his pursuers, and

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

^■:!l-i.h .■i:ii

while 'they are battling together we have time to approach
within gun-shot. Quicker than thought Bannac raises his rifle,
a sharp report follows, a bullet has dropped the forest king, and
he mast die. We skin him, secure the two hams, and after
examinirg our compass, and finding that we are near our place
of destinui 'on, shoulder our plunder as best we may, and make
a bee-line to/ ohe log cabin of our intended host, where we arrive
in due time, and exchange friendly congratulations.

Wcil, now that we are here, I must give a brief description of
the man whose guests we are, and of the lonely place which he
inhabits. Like my bachelor friend, Bannac, Antoine Campau is
a Frenchman and a hunter, but a widower, and the father of
two little girls, and a strapping boy of fifteen. A singular love
oi freedom first prompted him to leave the settlement where he
once lived, and to locate himself in tho woods, where, between a
little farming and a good deal of hunting, he manages to support
himself and family quite comfortably. His dwelling is a rusty-
looking log-house, situated on a pleasant little stream, in the
centre of a dead clearing some three acres wide. The live stock
of this embryo farm consists of a cow, one yoke of oxen, a pony,
a few sheep, about three dozen hens, and a number of foxy-
looking dogs. And now that the long winter evening has set in,
and as the whole family is present, I will picture the interior of
our cabin. The only room, excepting the garret, is an oblong
square, twenty feet by fifteen. The unbearded walls, by the
smoke of years, have been changed into f. lich mahogany brown.
The only light in the room is that which proceeds from an
immense fireplace, where nearly a common cart-load of wood is
burning, and hissing, and crackling, at its own free-will, so that
the remotest corners are made cheerful by the crimson glow.
The principal articles of furniture are a bed, one large table
standing in the centre of the floor, and some half dozen rush-
chairs, while in one corner stand a num-l^er of shot-guns and
rifles, and a ladder leading to the loft, and from the rafters
above are hanging pouches, powder-horns, leggins, a brace of wild-
ducks, one or two deer-hams, and a bundle of dressed skins.
The dogs of the family, numbering only four, together with their

The

RECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIQAK.

dandy visiters, are scattered about the room, — one lying upon
the hearth and watching the fire, one playing with his shadow,
another v/alking thoughtfully across the floor, and the other
sound asleep. A bountiful supper having been prepared by the
daughters, the whole family, with theii* guests, are seated at the
table, and all past sorrows and future anxieties are forgotten in
the enjoyment of the passing hour. Bannac and Campau have all
the talking to themselves, as they have to relate their manifold
adventures and wonderful escapes, wherein they make use of no
less than three languages — bad French, broken English, and gen-
uine Potawattomee. The leisure hour following supper is devoted
principally to the cleaning of our rifles, the moulding of bullets,
and other matters preliminary to the capture of a few wolves.

For the novel mode which we are to pursue on this occasion
we are indebted to our friend Campau, and he tells us it will
positively prove successful. From his account, it appears that
only a few evenings ago his sheep were attacked by the wolves,
and before he could run to their rescue, one of them was killed,
but the thieves were compelled to part with it, or run the risk of
losing their lives. To-day Campau has built a large pen, in which
he has placed the dead sheep as a kind of bait. His idea is that
the wolves will of course revisit this spot to-night, and when
they are in the act of climbing over into the pen, we, who are to
be hidden within gun-shot, will give them the cold lead. Behold
us, then, at the midnight ho ar in our treacherous ambush.

Listen! Hear you not the dismal shriek of an owl? Our
enemies must be coming, for tlieir footsteps have disturbed the
feathered hermit, as he sat upon a limb with a red squirrel in his
claw. Yes, there they are, the prowling thieves, just without
the shadow of the wood, dodging along between the blackened
stumps of the clearing. There are five of them, and see ! with
what activity they leap into the fold ! Now is our time to settle
them. We rush forward with a shout, when the villains
commence a retreat, and as they mount the high enclosure, we
.>ucceed in shooting three, while the other two escape unharmed.
The dead culprits having been stripped of their hides, their
carcasses are cai.'ried away and exposed for food to the vulture

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH ASIERICA.

and eagle. We then return to our cabin and sleep until late in
the morning, wken wo are surprised to find that a regular snow-
Btorm has sot in. Our sporting for to-day, which was to have
been of a miscellaneous character, is given up, and Bannac thinks
it better fcliat he and I should turn our faces homeward in spito
of tlic stoiTn. Whereupon, after a good breakfast, we take leave
of our hospitable friends, and through the falling snow enter the
forest on our return. > ..

Snow, snow, snow ! — above us, around us, and under out feet,
to the depth of some half-dozen inches. In large feathery flakes
it fill Is downward through the still air, and it also muffles our
footsteps as we tramp ithrough the pathless and desolate woods.
Every thing that meets the eye is enveloped in a downy covering :
not only the prostrate and decayed tree, but the " topmost twig
that looks up at the sky." Slowly and heavily, without game,
or a single adventure, we are compelled to tnidge along, and
when we come in sight of the pleasant village, not a penny care
we for any-thing else in this world but a roaring fire and a
warn\ svipper,-^^both of which, in my father's dwelling, are we
presently permitted to enjoy, — ^and thus endeth another portion
of my heart-song.

Among the peculiar characters which I remember, while
thinking upon my early days, none do I dwell upon with more
pleasurable feoiing than an old Indian. My first acquaintance
with him took pl.ii^e when I was about twelve years old. It was
the pleasant summer-time. At an early hour of the day I had
launched my little birt li canoe from the sloping bank behind our
orchard, and, accompanied by Rover, started on a duck hunt down
tlie river Raisin. I would here remark, that the mouth of tliia
beautiful river -is studded with islands, and has been, from time
immemorinl, celebrated for its abundance of game. As I paddled
along, I watched with an inward joy the progress of the morning.
The farm-houses, that had been long sleeping amid the silence of
night, were now enlivened by their inmates, who had sallied
forth to perform their allotted duties. At one moment my ears
were saluted by a choims of voices from some neighbouring poul-
try-yard, mingled with the lowing of cows and the jingling of

EECOLLECTIONS OP MICHIOAN.

bells in the sheepfold. -And then I heard the smping of Lirks
in the open fields, the neighing of a hoi*se, or the shout of some
haj)py boy. The mists, frightened by the sunbeams, were rising
from the river, and from the trees on either side the df waa
falling. I looked upon the changing landscape, smiling in its
freshness, and felt my heart swell within me, for I beheld the
glory and goodness of God, and I " blessed liim imaware."

The ducks were very shy that day, and the few that I did
shoot were taken on the wing. I was about making up my
mind to return home, when I beheld a bingle canvass-back rise
li'om the water in the distance, and, seemingly unconscious
of my presence, fly directly over my head. I fired at it, and
the feathei-s flew. Slowly, but surely, the bird descended, and at
last fell upon an island a quarter of a mile away. This was soon
reached, and a long hour did T search for my game among the
bushes and grass,' but I. sought in vain. This island was about
two furlongs in length and one in width. At one end was a
gi'oup of lofty sycamores, and at the other three black pines
stood together, like robbers plotting the destruction of an
enemy. Between and beneath these, the dark-green and lux-
uriant foliage of less ambitious trees formed to all appearance a
solid mass. Here the light-green ivy encircled some youtliful
ash, from whose top it wandered among the limbs of other trees :
and there, the clustering fruit hung in great abundance from the
brown grape-vine. While rambling about this island, I disco-
vered in its centre a little clearing, or miniature prairie, on
which stood a single wigwam. A wreath of smoke rose from
its chimney between the trees, gracefully curling upward to the
sky. I entered the hut, and beheld the form of an Indian, who
was engaged in cooking his noonday meal. At first he was
surprised at my presence, but when I told him I was merely on
a hunting excursion, his countenance changed, and he manifested
much pleasure. His kindness, and my boyish familiarity, con-
spired to make us soon acquainted. He was a tall, athletic,
well-proportioned man, with dark eagle eyes. His long locks of
hair were now whitening with age. I wiU not dwell upon the
particulars of that interview. Let it suflElce to know that I

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

'ir'V

df^pai-ted from that " green and lovely iaV'," feeling that I had a
friend in the person of that old Indian.

Many a day, during that summer and the en uing autumn,
did I spend in his society. Many a table luxuiy brought I to
his lonely dwelling. Many a lesson has he taught me, in the ai-ts
of fishing and hunting. Long year.-^ have flown since then. But
the wild and pure enjoyments which I then participated in with
this old Indian, are deeply engraven on the tablet of my memory.

We usied often to enter our respective canoes and explore the
neighbouring creeks and rivers, little islands of the bay, and
others far out into the lake. We would bathe together; at one
time wading out from the sandy and sloping shore, and again
leaping and diving from some abrupt headland into the clear
water, so clear and pure that the shells upon the bottom were
distinctly seen at the depth of twenty feet or more. I never
troubled myself about the origin of this old Indian. Jlis name,
to what nation he belonged, or his reasons for thus living alone,
were things that I never desired to know. I was content to be
with him, and during our various excvirsions to listen to his wild
legends, his narratives of strange adventures and exploits, which
he would recount in broken English, though always with the
eloquence of nature. Oft-times I could not comprehend his
meaning, more especially when he described the beauties of the
Spirit Land, which he said existed far beyond the setting sun;
and also when he told me of its valleys, and mountains, and
forests, smiling under the influence of perpetual summer, where
the singing of birds was always heard, and where the buffalo, the
horse, the deer, the antelope, the bear, the wolf, the panther, the
musk-rat, and otter, flourished and fattened for its inhabitants.

When we looked irpon the lurid lightning, and listened to the
sullen roar of the distant thunder, he would raise his hands to
heaven, exclaiming, "the Great Spirit is angry," and kneeling
down, would kiss the ground in fear and adoration. Pleasantly
indeed did the days of that summer, and the ensuing autumn,
pass away. At last winter came, and the waters of the ever-
mun^mring Raisin were clasped in his icy chains. In a little
time I lost sight of my old friend, for his island home was.doso-

RECOLLECTIOXS OP ailCIIIOAN.

late — he had departed — no one knew where. Spring came, and
I was sent to an eastern city to acliool. Five yeai's were flown,
and I returned to the village of my birth. At the twUight hour, a
few evenings after thi?, I was Heated at an open window with my
mother, inhaling the fragrance of blowing flowers, and at times
listening to the mellow tones of the sweet whippoorwill. All tlie
important incidents that had transpired during iny absence, were
aflectionately and particularly related. Nothing, however, inter-
ested me so much as the following brief account of ray old Indian
friend, which I now write down as it was told me.

" The summer after you left us, an Indian made his appear-
ance in our village, whose poverty and old age elicited the kind
sympathies and good wishes of all who knew him. Nothing was
known of his history, save that he belonged to a tribe of Potawat-
tomees, a nation at this period almost extinct. Alas ! for the
poor aborigines of our country ! To them the earth is a dreary
place, and their only joy is in the hope that they will soon join
theii' kindred in the land of spirits. One by one, like the linger-
ing sands of an hour-glass, they are passing beyond the grave.

" As I heard you talk about an Indian, with whom you had
become acquainted while hunting, I thought this new comer
might be the identical one. While passing through the village
one day, I happened to meet him, and invited him to come and
sup with us that evening. He did so : and we were very glad
to hear that he was indeed your friend, whom you thought dead.
We discovered tliis fact from the manner in which he spoke of
a boy hunter, who used to visit him in his lonely home. From
that day he became our particular friend, as he had been before
the friend of the whole village.

" His dress was common, but in the true Indian style. He
was ever a great favourite among the boys, in whose sports he
often participated. It was his custom in summer to sit beneath
the great elm-tree on the green, and, gathering the children
around him, rehearse to them wild stories about the red men of
the forest. Sometimes he would s^end a whole day in whittling
out bows and arrows for his youthful fi-iends; and they in return
would bestow on him various little presents, both curious and

ADVENTURES IN THE WILD.. OF NORTH AMERICA.

rare. He had no particular abiding-place. There were a dozen
houses where he was perfectly at home. He seldom alluded to
his tribe, and never ventured beyond the limits of the county.
This was indeed unaccountable ; but as he seemed to possess so
amiable a disposition, no one could believe he had ever been
guilty of a crime. Rather than this, it was thought he had been
banished from his nation on account of some failure in warlike
exploits, or some similar cause.

" Perhaps, again, he was an Indian philosopher or poet, who
had unfortunately drawn upon himself the ill-will of his people^
by expressing some unpopular opinion. At times he would enter
the school-house, and listen attentively to the boys reciting their
lessons. A printed book he looked upon as a treasure, and when one
was given him, considered it a sacred gift, though he could not
read its contents. He would often enter the church on the Sab-
bath, and in his seat near the pulpit, with his head resting upod
both hands, would listen, with an anxious gaze, to the preacher's
words. He always left the house in a pensive mood. To his
mind the heaven of the Christian was utterly incomprehensible.
Of all the truths that were read to him from the Bible, the most
interesting and wonderful was the history of our Saviour. Wlien
listening to this, he would often clasp his hands in an ecstasy of
delight, exclaiming, * How good man! how good man!*

" On all occasions of festivity he was a welcome guest. Christ-
mas and New Year were always happy days w'th him. The little
girls invited him to their pic-nic parties. The boys on Saturday
afternoon had him to keep tally when they were playing ball. He
was the leader of the rutting-parties in autumn, and a partici-
pator in the sleigh-rides of winter. In fact, he was every where,
and had a hand in alF^ost every thing that transpired.

** About six weeks -ago it was reported throughout the village
that our old Indian friend was very sick, and at the point of
death. The intelligence was no less unexpected than melancholy.
He had so completely won the aflfection of every body, that it
spread a universal gloom. In a few days he yielded up his spirit
to his Father and his God. The next day was the Sabbath, and
the one appointed for his burial. The sky was without a cloud,

RECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIGAN.

i t

and the cool breeze, as it rustled among the leaves, brought health
and refreshment to the body and soul of every one. The meadow-
lark, and woodland birds sang louder and sweeter than they were
wont to do. A good man had died, and Nature, animate and
inanimate, seemed anxious to pronoimce his requiem. A larger
funeral than this I have seldom seen. Old men and women,
young men and maidens, and little children, with tearful eyes
followed the old Indian to his grave. It is situated in the north-
east corner of the burying-ground, in the shadow of two weeping
willows? that seem the guardians of his silent resting-place."

On tne following evening, an hour before sunset, I stood
beside the clay cottage of my Indian friend. Green was the
grass, and lu ^y and beautiful the flowers that flourished above
his grave. " _jlucked a single one to keep as a token of one whom
I had dearly loved, — who was born a benighted heathen,
but died a Christian. The mildly-beaming and beautiful eve-
ning star had risen in the west, ere I departed from the
" Silent City;" but I felt that the flower I had plucked, though
faded, would in after hours remind me of my friend, and I there-
fore came away in peace, repeating to myself these words : —

*' And I am glad that he has lived thus long,
^ A.nd glad that he has gone to his reward ;

Nor deem that kindly Nature did him wrong,

Softly to disengage the vital cord.
When his weak hand grew palsied, and his eye
■' • ' Dark with the mists of age, it was his time to die."

Bryant.

And now comes the conclusion of my long rhapsody. The
time of my departure for my distant city home is at hand. A
few more wilderness pictures, illustrative of my native State as
it was in other days, and I will lay aside my pen.

Weary with the hunt, I lately sought the shady side of a gentle
hill, and extending my limbs upon the jrreen-sward amused nvy-
self by watching the sky. I gazed upon the blue canopy, and
fancied it to be an ocean, beyond which were the broad and
beautiful fields of heaven. A few white feathery clouds wore
floating there, and they seemed to me to be a fleet returning
from their home of peace. In the dark regions of night they

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

had fought and conquered the enemy, and now laden with re-
deemed souls, were hastening to the haven of eternal rest.
Fancy, which had pictured this image, was gone; I saw nothing
save an eagle playing above the trees of the forest, and in a
mome&t I was a dreamer.

It seemed to me that I entered a forest just as the glorious
smnmer sun was sinking to his repose. The evening star rose
in the west, and in a little while, from the zenith, a thousand
other bright constellations looked smilingly down upon the
earth. Something whispered me that I must spend the long
watches of that night in wandering in the wilderness ; and I
departed with the silence of a shadow, and the speed of the wind.
Strauge, and wild, and beautiful, were the scenes I behe^-^

The mighty trees which rose on every side seemed L.ce the
columns of a vast temple, whose mysterious winding aislefi,
overhung with a multitudinous foliage, were deserted and desolate.
No moving objects met my eye, save the fireflies that darted in
all directions, floating and sinking like burning flakes of snow.
The gloomy silence was broken only by the chirp of tbo cricket,
and the song of the katydid. At intervals, too, the clear
sootliing voice of the whippoorwill would echo far and near.
The huge masses of foliage above, reminded me of thunder-clouds,
and like them oppressed my spirit ; and it was so still th;;,t " the
dropping dew woke startling echoes in the sleeping wood."

My pathway was not smooth, for I was forced to leap, now
over some dead tree, and now over a pile of brush ; and again
over a mossy hillock, or some gurgling brooklet. Ever and
anon I caught a glimpse of the deep blue sky ; but in a moment
it was lost to view, and I was in total darkness. My vision
was wonderful. I saw all surrounding objects with intense
clearness ; for to me the " darkness was as the light of day."
At times I paused to listen, startled by some distant sound ; the
hoAvl of a wolf, the hooting of an owl, or the " trumpet-tone''
of a flying swan ; and l,s I listened, it would become a murmur,
then a whisper, and at last die into a breathless stillness.

At the foot of a gnarled and stunted oak I saw the manly
form of an Indian, wrapped in his scarlet blanket, and extended

BECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIGAN.

83^

with re-
rnal rest.
w nothing
;, and in a

e glorious
; star rose
I thousand
upon the
1 the long
ess ; and I
f the wind,
shei-"

Led L.ce the
ling aisleH,
nd desolate,
t darted iu
;eB of snow,
the cricket,
, the clear
and near,
ader-clouds,
thi;t " the
\rood."
leap, now
and again
Ever and
n a moment
My vision
rith intense
;ht of day."
sound; the
ampet-tone'
3 a murmur,
ness.

the manly
nd extended

upon a bearskin. He was fast asleep. On one side of him,
and within his reach, lay a bundle of arrows, and an unstrung
bow; on the other, a knapsack of provisions and a wolfish-look-
ing dog. But this guardian of the slumbering savage was also
fast asleep. As I looked upon this simple picture; the feelings
of my heart responded to my thoughts, and I exclaimed, though
there was no echo to my words : " Poor lone Indian ! Is that
dog thy only friend? Art thou indeed alone iu the wide, wide
world? Hast thou no wife to sympathize with thee, to love thee,
in those hours of disappointment and troubles incident to human
life? No children to play around thy knees, and make thee
happy in some comfortable wigwam, when the blue and scarlet
birds make melody in summer, and the wind Euroclydon howls
and roars among the forest trees in winter? Hast thou no
daugliter to protect and cherish, that she may be the bride of
some future warrior? No son to listen, with flashing eye, to
thy hunting lessons; to smite his breast with pride and anger
as thou tellest him of the bravery and vv^rongs of thy ancestors?
that I knew thy history ! But I will not disturb thy slumber.
jMay thy dreams be of that land beyond the sunset clouds, where
perpetual summer reigns, — the land of the Great Spirit, — the

I God of thy fathers."
How vividly do the scenes and incidents of that night arise be-

Ifore my vision! I see them now witL i ■ e same distinctness that

I I beheld them then. I stand upon the shore of that dark stream,
rolling through the denize woods, where the full blaze of daylight

[has not penetrated for centuries. I hear that uncouth but solemn
funeral hymn, and see a band of stern red men performing their
lysterious rites over the grave of an aged chieftain.

Not less sudden than varied are the scenes I behold. On
liat high dry limb, under a canopy of leaves, a flock of turkeys
lire roosting. They are all asleep save one, and he is acting the
part of a sentinel, darting out his long neck, no^-- this way, now
liat, as if he beheld an enemy. Fat, sleepy fellow ! There was

time when it would have been temerity to look at me thus.

am not a hunter now, else would I bring you. down from your
Dfty resting-place. r

ADVENT URLS IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

My course is onward. Hark ! I hear a yell, and a rushing
sound. Two '"^'^l^'ss are chasing a beautiful doe. Poor creature !
Its strength is already lessening, its race is run. The wolves
have seized it. . There is a struggle ; the blood issues from her
graceful neck; one gasp more, and the tender mother of two
sweet fawns lies dead. Its bones will moulder and mingle with
the earth, giving nourishment to that cluster of hazel-bushes
which stand beside her mossy death-bed. Awakened by the
scent, a croaking raven is wheeling in the distance. Its wings
flap heavily, and there are two, and still another ! See ! we come
to a kind of opening, — a place where the trees grow less closely
together. A cloud of thin white smoke is risiiig, as if from
yonder pile of imderbrush. It is an Indian encampment;
a dozen bark wigwams, shaped like a sugar-loaf But why this
bustle, at so late an hour? The men have just returned from a
three days' hunting tour, and they are now releasing their pack-
horses from their loads of spoil. The blaze from a fire gives all
surrounding objects a ruddy gVw. In dire confusion upon the
ground lie haunches of veni jr, red and grey squirrels and
racoons, turkeys, grouse, duck. ^ pheasant.-s, and many other lesser
birds, mingled with guns, bows and arrows, shot-pouches, pow-
derhorns, skins, halters, brass kettles, and the like. The men are
busy, and the women too. Roused from a four hours' nap, several
children are coming out from their tents, rubbing their eyes.
They seem to be the only playmates of- the winning dogs.

Lo! what a beauteous sight!-. A herd of deer reposing like a
family of wood-sprites, near yonder clump of young maples!
There are three bucks, five does, and two lovely spotted
fawns. Upon that decayed " stump " beyond, a, solitary American
nightingale is resting. It is my favourite bird. Would that I knew
the cause of its complainings and chastisement, for every now
and then it utters forth the cry, "Why whip poor Will?"

What silver rays are those darting down through the leafy
bough? The moon! the moon! High in the heavens she sails
in queenly beauty. The very heart of the forest is not beyond
hei vivifying influence. Festoons of creeping plants hang from
the surrounding limbs; and the ivy and grape-vine have twined

RSCOLLECTIONS OF MICHIGAN.

themselves so closely around that ash, as entirely to hide Irom
view the bark of the trunk. I thrust my hand against a bush,
and a thousand dew-drops fall +o the earth, glittering in the
moonbeams. If my lady-love were with me, what a gorgeous
wreath could I now weave for her beautiful brow out of the
purple and scarlet iris, the blue larkspur, the moccason-flower, th
crimson and green lichen, and other mosses, flowers^ and vines,
too delicate to have a name ! s

A gentle breeze is stirring. The tops of the trees are moving
to and fro with the strong but gentle motion of a ground-swell.
Soothing is the music of the leaves ; they seem to murmur with
excess of joy. Another sound echoes through the listening
wilderness. It is but a scuffle between a panther and bear. Let
them growl and fight ; who cares ? How like two hot-headed
poUticians do they seem !

Again are the trees becoming thinner, and my steps are tend-
ing downward. The greensward I press is without a single
stick or bramble. Here I am upon the brink of a little lake of
the very purest water ! The breeze has spent its force, and
every thing is still. It is " the bridal hour of the earth and sky!'*
What a perfect mirror is this liquid element ! The counterpart
of two willows, a grass-grown rock, tall reeds, and, beyond ail, a
row of slender elms, and a lightning-shivered pine, are distinctly
seen, pointing downward, downward to the moon and stars, in
the cerulean void beneath. And in yon deep shadow a flock of
ducks are floating silently, amid the sweet perfume of the wild
lotus ^nd white water-lily, which are growing near. One or two
have wandered out into the lake, making no ripple, but moving
as if lured away by the glossy loveliness of their shadows. The
same mysterious influence which has brought me thus far, will
transport me to the opposite shore.

I am already there ! yet still my course is onward. I am
come to a little lawn, so smooth and beautiful that it seems a fit
playground for the fairies. Perhaps it is here the water-spirits
and wood-nymphs are wont to meet, to revel and rejoice at mid-
night, " the dawn of the fairy day."

What sound is that ! — so like the far-off tones of a hundred

I W

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

tllOUgllt

'.."'3i

li-

musical instraments, faintly murmuring? There! I
so. Here they are :

" They come from beds of lichen pjreen,
' They creep from the miillen'a velvet screen ;

Some on the backs of beetles fly,
From the silver tops of moon-touched trees.

Where they swung in their cobweb hammocks high,
And rocked about in the evening breeze;

Some from the hum-bird's downy nest, —
They had driven him out by elfin power,

And pillowed on plumes of his rainbow breast,
Have slumbered there till the charmed hour.

Some had lain in the scoop of the rock,
With glittering izing-stars inlaid;

And some had opened the four-o'-clock.
And stole within its purple sliade.

And now they throng the moonlight glade,
Above — below — on every side,

Their little minim forms arrayed
In the tricksy pomp of fairy pride ! "

Drake.

Only another flight of fancy. I look again, and instead of
the fairies, I behold a thousand flowers, peeping from the green
luxuriant grass.

But see! I have reached a prairie! What dark cloud is
brooding over the scene? — a mighty flame bursting from its
centre? It comes! it comes! The prairie is on fire ! The wind
is rising, and swift as the wind spsed the flame-banners. Mad-
dened by fear, the bufialo, and wild horse, the wolf, and the deer,
birds, and other living creatures, are fleeing for their lives. Roar-
ing and hissing the fire-flood rolls on, swallowing up every thing
in its course. And now it has gone, leaving behind it a wide path
of blackness. The smoke obscures the moon and stars. " Far-off
its coming shone;" the incense one could almost imagine of a
sacrifice oflered to the gre 6 God by the Earth, for some enormous
sin. But it is gone; and I resume my journey.

I am now in an open country of gentle hills and dales. A narrow
but deep river is gliding by me in its pride and beauty. Now
it is lost to view by some abrupt headland, and anon it makes -^
long sweep through a plain or meadow, its ripples sporting in
the moonlight.

I hear the splash of fish, leaping from their

RECOLLECTIONS OF MICHIG^VN.

snormous

watery bed. I hear the measured stroke of a paddle; it is an
Indian in his canoe, passing down the river; he has started a loon
from his wavy cradle. I hear the sound of a waterfall. A mile
away there is a precipice, where the river gathers all its strength
for a fearful leap. Now its surface is without a ripple, — but in
a moment more, it plunges among the rocks, and the waves
struggle, and leap, and rise and sink, like demon-spirits in agony.
I ain standing on a hill which overlooks a lovely landscape of
woods and lawns, streams, hills, valleys, and cultivated fields, —
farm-houses and church steeples. In the distance sleep the
bright-green wavvis of Lake Erie. A streak of daylight is in the
eastern sky. The wpell is broken ; — my dream, and my book about
the wilderness, are both ended.

.* ;:. i

i^f

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH A3IERICA.

fit' ■'

T.:

ft v=li(

CHAPTER XI.

LAKE HORICON.

Lyman's Tavern.

If circumstances alone could make one poetical, then might
you expect from me, on this occasion, a paper of rare excellence
and beauty. My sketch-book is my desk; my canopy from the
sunshine, an elm tree; the carpet under my feet, a rich green
sprinkled yith flowers ; the music in my ear singing birds ; and
the prospect before me, north, east, and south, the tranquil bosom
of Lake George, with its islands and surrounding mountains;
whose waters, directly at my side, are alive with many kinds of
fish, sporting together on a bed of sand. Yes, the far-famed
Lake George is my subject; but in what I write, I shall not use
that title, — for I do not like the idea of cliristening what belongs
to us with the name of an English monarch, however much his
memory deserves to be respected. Shall it be lake St. Sacra-
ment, then? No!, for that was given to it by the Pope, and the
French nation. Horicon — a musical and appropriate word,
meaning pure water, and given to it by the poor Indian — is the
name which rightfully belongs to the lake which is now my
theme.

Lake Horicon is one of the few objects in Nature which did
not disappoint me after reading the descriptions of travellers. I
vei-ily believe that, in point of mere beauty, it has not its superior
in the world. Its length is thirty-four miles, and its width from
two to four. Its inlands number about three hundred, and vary
from ten feet to a mile in length; — a great many of them are
located in the centre of the lake, at a place called the Narrows.
It is completely surrounded with mountains ; the most prominent
of which arCj Black Mountain, on tlie east of the Nan^ows ;

LAKE HORICON.

Tongue Mountain, directly opposite, and French Mountain, at
the southern extremity. The first is the most lofty, and remark-
able for its wildness, and the superb prospect therefrom ; the
second is also wild and uninhabited, but distinguished for its dens
of rattlesnakes; and the latter is somewhat cultivated, but
memorable for having been the camping-ground of the French
during the Revolutionary War. The whole eastern border is yet
a comparative wilderness ; but along the western shore are some
respectable farms, and a good coach road from Caldwell to
Ticonderoga, which affords many admirable views of the sky-blue
lake. Thei'e are three public houses here which I can recommend :
the Lake House, for those who are fond of company — Lyman's
Tavern, for the hunter of scenery and lover of quiet — and CmV-
field's House for the fisherman. A nice little steamboat,
commanded by a gentleman, passes thiough every morning and
evening (excepting Sundays), and though a convenient affair to
the traveller, it is an eyesore to the admirer of the wilderness.
Identified with this boat is an eccentric man named Old Dick,
who amuses the tourist, and collects an occasional shilling by
exhibiting a number of rattlesnakes. When, in addition to all
these things, it is remembered that Horicon is the centre of a
region made classic by the exploits of civilized and savage war-
fare, it can safely be pronounced >tiq of the most interesting
portions of our country for the summer tourist to visit. I have
looked upon it from many a peak whence might be seen almost
every rood of its shore. I have sailed into every one of its bays,
and, like the pearl-diver, have repeatedly descended into its cold
blue chambers, so that I have learned to love it as a faithful and
well-tried friend. Since the day of my arrival here, I have kept
a journal of my adventures, and, as a memorial of Horicon, I
will extract therefrom, and embody in this chapter the following
passages : —

A goodly portion of this day have I been musing upon the
olden times, while rambling about Fort George and Fort William
Henry. Long and with peculiar interest did I linger about the
spot near the latter, where were cruelly massacred the followers

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NOlliif AMERICA.

of Monrc , at vvliicli time Montcalm linked liis name t j the title
of a heartle.}-* Fronchniau, and the i ■ ame of Wohl ' becaiod identi-
fied with all that is ju-itly despi^ud by the human heart. I
profess my sol f to be an enemy to wrorir and outrage of every
kind, and ycL a lover and defender of ihe Indian race; but when
I picked up one after another the flinty heads of arrows, which
were meinentos of an awful butchery, my spirit revolted against
the red man, and for a moment I felt a desire to condemn him.
Yes, I will condemn that particular band of murderers, but I
cannot but defend the race. Cruel and treacherous they were,
I will allow, but do we not forget the treatment they ever met
with from the white man? The most righteous of battles have
ever been fought for tlie sake of sires, and wives, and children,
and for what else did the poor Indian fight, when driven from
the home of his youth into an unknown wilderness, to become
thereafter a by-word and a reproach among the nations?
" Indians," said we, " we would have your lands, and if you will
not be satisfied with the gowgaws we proffer, our powder and
balls will teach you that power is but another name for right."
Ar I this is the principle that has guided the white man ever
since in his warf^e against the aborigines of our country. I
cat) not beUeve that Ave shall ever be a happy and prosperous
people until the King of kings shall have forgiven us for having,
with a yoke of tyranny, almost annihilated an hundred nations.

A portion of this afternoon I whiled away on a little island,
which attracted my attention by its charming variety of foliage.
It is not more than one hundred feet across at the widest part,
and is encircled by a yellow sand bank, and shielded by a regiment
of variegated rocks. But what could I find there to interest me,
it may be inquired? My answer is this. This island, hidden in
one of the bays of Horicon, is an insect city, and more populous
than was Rome in the days of her glory. There the honey-bee
has his oaken tower, the wasp and humble-bee their grassy nests,
the spider his den, the butterfly his hammock, the grasshopper
his domam, the beetle, and cricket, and hornet, their decayed
stump, and the toiling ant her palace of sand. There they were

LAKE HORICON.

bom, there they floia-ish and multiply, and there they die,
symbolizing the career and destiny of innn. I was a " distin-
guished stranger" in that city, and I must confess that it gratified
my ambition to be welcomed v.ith such manifestations of regard
as the inhabitants thought proper to bestow. My approach was
herald (^l by the song of a kingly bee; and when- 1 'had thrown
myself upon a mossy bank, multitudes of people gathered round,
and, with their eyes intently fixed upon me, stood still, and let
"expressive silence muse my praise." To the "natives" I Mas
emphatically a source of asto"" ^iment, and as I wished to gatlier
instruction from the ineidt \ ondered in my heart whether

I would be a happier man ence in a human city should

create a kindred excitemen . ny rate it would be a " great

excitement on a small capital."

While quietly eating my dinner this noon in the shady recess
of an island near Black Mountain, I was startled by the yell of
a pack of hounds coming down one of its ravines. I knew that
the chase was after a deer, so I waited in breathless anxiety for
his appearance, and five minutes had hardly elapsed before I
discovered a noble buck at bay on the extreme summit of a bluff
which extended into the lake. There were five dogs yelping
about him, but the " antlered monarch" fought them like a hero.
His hoof was the most dangerous weapon he could wield, and it
seemed to me that the earth actually trembled every time that
he struck at his enemies. Presently, to my great joy, one ot
the hounds was killed, and another so disabled, that he retired
from the contest. But the hunters made their appearance, and
I knew that the scene would soon come to a tragic close, and
when the buck beheld them, I could not but believe that over
his face a " tablet of agonizing thoughts was traced," for he fell
upon his knees, then made a sudden wheel, and with a frightful
bound, as a ball passed through his heart, cleared the rock and
fell into the lake below. The waters closed over him, and me-
thought that the waves of Horicon and the leaves of the forest
murmured a requiem above the grave of the wilderness king.
I turned away, and partly resolved that I would never again

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ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

have a dog for iny friend, or respect the character of a hunter;
but then I looked into the crystal waters of the lake, and thought
of the heami in my own eye, and stood convicted of a kindred
cruelty.

One of the most singular precipices overlooking Horicon is
about five miles from the outlet, and known as Rogers' Slide.
It is some four hundred feet high, and at one point not a fissure
or sprig can be discovered to mar the polished surface of the rock
till it reaches the water. Once on a time, in the winter, the
said Rogers was pursued by a band of Indians to this spot, when,
after throwing down his knapsack, he carefully retraced the
steps of his snow-shoes for a bhort distance, and descending the
hill by a circuitous route, continued his course across the frozen
lake. The Indians, on coming to the jumping-off place, dis-
covered their enemy on the icy plain; but when they saw the
neglected knapsack below, and no signs of returning footsteps
where they stood, they thought tlie^ devil was in the man, and
gave up the pursuit. ,,

The most famous, and one of the most beautiful islands in
this lake, is Diamond Island, so called from the fact that it
abounds in crystallized quartz. It is half a mile in length, but
the last place which would be thought of as the scene of a battle.
It is memorable for the attack made by the Americans on the
British, who had a garrison there, during the Revolution. The
American detachment was commanded by Col. Brown, and
being elated with his recent triumphs on Lake Champlain, he
resolved to attack Diamond Island. The battle was bloody, and
the British fought like brave men, "long and well;" the Ame-
ricans were defeated, and this misfortune was followed by the
sufferings of a most painful retreat over the almost impassable
mountains between the Lake and what is now Whitehall. While
wandering about the island it was a difficult matter for me to
realize that it had ever resounded with the roar of cannon, the
dismal wail of war, and the shout of victory. That spot is now
covered with woods, whose shadowy groves are the abode of a

LAKE HORICON.

thousand birds, for ever singing a song of peace or love, as if to
condemn the ambition and cruelty of man. ' '^'<l

/-'

In the vicinity of French Mountain is an island celebrated as
the burial-place of a rattlesnake hunter, named Belden. From
all that I can learn, he must have been a strange mortal indeed.
His birth-place and early history were alike unknown. When
he first made his appearance at this lake, his only companions
were a brotherhood of rattlesnakes, by exhibiting which he pro-
fessed to have obtained his living; and it is said that, during
the remainder of his life, he acquired a handsome sum of money
by selling the oil and gall of his favourite reptile. And I have
recently been told that the present market price of a fat snake,
when dead, is not less than half a dollar. Another mode pecu-
liar to old Belden for making money, was to suffer himself to be
bitten, at some tavern, after which he would return to his cabin
to apply the remedy, when he would come forth again just as
good as new. But he was not- always to be a solemn trifler.
For a week had the old man been missing, and on a pleasant
August morning, his body was found on the island alluded to,
sadly mutilated and bloated, and it was certain that he had died
actually surrounded with rattlesnakes. His death-bed became
his grave, and rattlesnakes were his only watchers; — ^thus cndeth
the story of his life.

But this reminds me of two little adventures. The other day
as I was seated near the edge of a sand bar, near the mouth of
a brook, sketching a grorip of trees and the sunset clouds beyond,
I was startled by an immense black snake, that landed at my
side, and pursued its way directly under my legs, upon which
my drawing-book was resting. Owing to my perfect silence,
the creature had probably looked upon me as a mere stump.
But what was my surprise a few moments after, when re-seated
in the same place, to find another snake, and that a large spotted
adder, passing along the same track the fonner had pursued.
The first fright had almost disabled me from using the pencil,
but when the second* came, I gave a lusty yell, and, forgetful of
the fine arts, started for home on the keen run.

'■■ !

ADVENTURES IN THE WILD3 OP NORTH AMERICA.

At another time, when returning from a 'fishing excursion iii
a boat, accompanied by a couple of " green-homs," we discovered
on tlie water, near Tongue Mountain, an immense rattlesnake
with his head turned towards us. As the oarsman in the bow
of the boat struck at him with his oar, the snake coiled round
it, and the fool w^as in the very act of dropping the devilish thing
in my lap. I had heard the creature rattle, and not knowing
what I did, as he hung: suspended over me, overboard I went,
and did not look behind until I had reached the land. The
consequence was, that for one while I was perfectly disgusted
even with Lake Horicon, and resolved to leave it without delay.
Tlie snake was killed without doing any harm, however, but
such a blowing up as I gave the green-horn actually made Ids
hair stand straight with fear.

One more snake story, and I will conclude : On the north
side of Black Mountain is a cluster of some half dozen houses,
in a vale, which spot is called the Bosom, but from what cause
I do not know. The presiding geniuses of the place are a band
of girls, weighing two hundred pounds a piece, who farm it with
their fathers for a living, but whose princij)al amusement is rat-
tlesnake hunting. Their favourite playground is the notorious
cliff on Tongue Mountain, where they go with naked feet (rowing
their own boats across the lake), and pull out by their tails from
tlie rocks the pretty playthings, and, snapping them to death,
they lay them away in a basket as trophies of their skill. I
was told that in ) day last year they killed the incredible
number of eleven .ndr^d. What delicious wives would these
Horicon lad es make! Since the Florida Indians have been
driven from their country by blood-hounds, would it not be a
good idea for Congress to secure the services of these Amazons
for the purpose of exterminating the rattlesnakes upon our
mountains? This latter movement would be the most ridiculous,
but the inhumanity of the former is without a parallel.

A clear and tranquil summer night, and I am alone on the
pebbly beach of this paragon of lakes. The countless hosts of
heaven are beaming upon me with a silent joy, and more im-*

LAKE HORICON.

pressive and lioly tlian a poet's dream are tlie surrounding
mountains, as they stand reflected in the unruffled waters.
Listen! what sound is that so like the wail of a spirit? Only
a loon, the lonely night-watcher of Iloricon, whose melancholy
moan, as it breaks the profound stillness, curries my fancy back
to the olden Indian times, ere the white man had crossed the
ocean. All these mountains and this beautiful lake were then
tlie heritage of a brave and noble-hearted people, who made war
(mly upon the denizens of the forest, whose lives were peaceful
as a dream, and whose manly forms, decorated with the plumes
of the eagle, the feathers of the scarlet bird, and the robe of the
bounding stag, tended but to make the scenery of the wilderness
beautiful as an earthly Eden. Heru was the quiet wigwam village,
and there the secluded abode of the thoughtful chief. Here,
unmolested, the Indian child played with the spotted fawn, and
the "Indian lover wooed his dusky mate;'* here the Indian
hunter, in the " sunset of his life," watched with holy awe the
sunset in the west ; and here the ancient Indian prophetess sung
her uncouth but religous chant. Gone — all, all gone — and the
desolate creature of the waves, now pealing forth another wail,,
seems the only memorial that they have left behind. There —
my recent aspirations are all quelled, I can walk no farther to-
night; — there is a sadness in my soul, and I must seek my home.
It is such a blessed night, it seems almost sinful that a blight
should rest on the spirit of man; yet on mine a gloom will
sometimes fall, nor can I tell whence the cloud that makes me
wretched.

ADVENTURES IX TBE WILDS OF NORTH AMERTQA.

CHAPTER XIL

THE SCAROON COUNTRY.

Ltndsey's Tavern.

Emptying into the Hudson river, about fifteen miles north
of Glen's Falls, is quite a large stream, sometimes called the East
Branch of the Hudson, but generally known as Scaroon River.*
Its extreme length is not far from fifty miles. It is a clear, cold,
and rapid stream, winds through a mountainous country, and
has rather a deep channel. The valley through which it runs is
somewhat cultivated, but the mountains which frown upon it on
either side, are covered with dense forests. The valley of the
Scaroon abounds in beautiful lakes and brooks; and as I have
explored them pretty thoroughly during the past week, I will
now record the result of my observations. >

The most prominent pictorial feature of this region is Scaroon
Lake, through which the river of that name forms a channel. It
is ten miles in length, and averages about one in width. Except-
ing a little hamlet at its head, and two or three farms at the
southern extremity, it is yet surrounded with a wilderness of
mountains. The waters thereof are deep and clear, and weU
supplied with fish, of which the salmon trout and pike are the
most valuable. • The trout are more abundant here than in Lake
George, but owing to the prevailing custom of spearing them in
the autumn, they are rapidly becoming extinct. I made a des-
perate effort to capture one as a specimen, but without success,
though I was told that they varied in weight from ten to fifteen
pounds. My efforts, however, in taking pike, were more encou-

* The word Schroon is bad Engli;^!! for the Indian word Scaroon, the mean-
ing of which is—** child of the mountains." The river was originally named bj
an Algonquin chief, after a favourite daughter.

THE SCiUlOON COUNTRY,

raging. But, before giving my experience, I must mention an
interesting fact in natural history. Previous to the year 1840,
Scaroon Lake was not known to contain a singU pike, but
during that year, some half dozen males and females were
brought from Lake Champlain and deposited therein, since which
time they have multiplied so rapidly as to be quite abundant,
not only in Scaroon Lake, but in all the neighbouring waters, and
as they are frequently taken weighing some twenty pounds,
the fact seems to be established that this fish grows rapidly, and
is not of slow growth, as many naturalists have supposed.

But to my pike story. A number of lumbermen were going
out for the purpose of taking pike by torchlight, and I was
fortunate enough to secure a seat in one of the three flat boats
which contained the tisjjjermen. It was a superb night, and the
lake was without a ripple. Our torches were made of " fat pine,"
as it is here called, and my polite friends taking it for granted
that I was a novice in the spearing business, they cunningly
awarded to me the dullest speai in their possession, and gave
me the poorest position in the boat. I said nothing to all this,
but inwardly resolved that I would give them a salutary lesson,
if possible. I fished from nine until twelve o'clock, and then
left my friends to continue the sport. The entire number ot
pike taken, as I found out in the morning, was thirteen, and, as
fortune would have it, four of this number were captured by
myself, in spite of my poor spear. I did not take the largest
fish, which weighed eighteen pounds, but the greatest number,
with which success I was fully satisfied. The efiect of my good-
luck was unexpected to my companions, but gratifying to me,
for there was afterwards a strife between them as to who should
show me the most attention in the way of piloting me about the
country. This little adventure taught me the importance ot
understanding even the vagabond art of spearing.

The event of that night, however, which afforded me the
purest enjoyment, was the witnessing of a moonlight scene, im-
mediately after leaving the lake shore for the inn where I was
tarrying. Before me, in wild and solemn beauty, lay the southern
portion of the Scaroon, on whose bosom were gliding the spear- .

DVENTURES IN THH WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

men, holding high above their heads their huge torches, which
threw a spectral glare, not only upon the water, but upon the
swarthy forms watching for their prey. Just at this moment
an immense cloud of fog broke away, and directly above the
summit of the opposite mountain, the clear, full moon made its
appearance, and a thousand fantasi o figures, born of the fog,
were pictured in the sky, and appeared extremely brilliant under
the effulgence of the ruling planet; while the zenith was of a
deep blue, cloudless, but completely spangled with stars. And
what greatly added to the magic of the scene, was tlie dismal
scream of a loon, which came to my ear from a remote portion of
the lake yet covered with a heavy fog. '

Rising from the western margin of Scaroon lake is a lofty
mountain, which was once painted by Thomas Cole, and by
him named Scaroon Mountain. There is nothing particularly
imposing about it, but it commands an uncommonly fine prospect
of the surrounding country. When I first came in sight of this
mountain it struck me as an old acquaintance, and I reined in
my horse for the purpose of investigating its features. Before I
resumed my course, I concluded that I was standing on the very
spot whence the artist had taken his original sketch of the
scene, by which circumstance I was convinced of the fidelity of
his pencil.

The largest island in Scaroon lake lies near the northern
extremity, and studs the water like an emerald on a field of blue.
It was purchased, some years ago, by a gentleman of New York,
named Keland, who has built a summer residence upon it for
the accommodation of himself and friends.

Emptying into the Scaroon river, just below the lake, is a
superb mountain stream, known as Trout Brook. It is thirty
feet wide, twelve miles long, and comes rushing down the moun-
tains, forming innumerable waterfalls and pools, and filling its
narrow valley with an everlasting roar of music. Not only is it
distinguished for the quality and number of its trout, but it
possesses one attraction which will pay the tourist for the weary
tramp he must undergo to explore its remote recesses. I allude
to what the people about here call " the Stone Bridge." At

THE SCAROOir COUSTBT.

this point, the wild and dashing stream has formed a channel
directly through the solid mountains, so that, in fishing down, tlie
angler suddenly finds himself standing upon a pile of dry stones.
The extent of this natural bridge is not more than twenty or,
perhaps, thirty feet ; but the wonder is, that the unseen channel
is sufficiently large to admit the passage of the largest logs which
the lumbermen fioat down the stream. I might also add, that
at the foot of this bridge is one of the finest pools imaginable.
It is, perhaps, one hundred feet long, and so very deep that the
clear water appears quite black. This is the finest spot in the whole
brook for trout, and my luck there may be described as follows :
I had basketed no less than nine half-pounders, -when my fly
was suddenly seized, and my snell snapped in twain by the
fierceness of his leaps. The consequence of that defeat was, that
I resolved to capture the trout, if I had to remain there all
night. 1 then ransacked the mountain side for a living bait,
and, with the aid of my companion, succeeded in capturing a
small mouse, and, just as the twilight was coming on, I tied the
little fellow to my hook, and threw him on the water. He
swam across in fine style ; but when he reached the centre of the
pool, a large trout leaped completely out of his element, and in
descending seized the mouse, and the result was, that I broke my
rod but caught the trout, and, though the mouse was seriously
injured, I had the pleasure of again giving him his liberty.

The largest trout that I killed weighed over a pound, and
iJiough he was the cause of my receiving a ducking, he afforded
me some sport, and gave me a new idea. When I first hooked
him, I stood on the very margin of the stream, knee-deep in a
bog, and, just as I was about to basket him, he gave a sudden
leap, cleared himself, and fell into the water. Quick as thought
I made an effort to rescue him, but in doing so, lost my balance,
and was playing the part of a turtle in a tub of water. I then
became poetical, and thought it " would never do to give it up
so," and after waiting some fifteen minutes, I returned and tried
for the lost trout again. I threw my fly some twenty feet above
the place where I had tumbled in, and recaptured th'.i identical
fish which I had lost. I recognised him by his having a torn

100

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMEUICA.

1 l;;-;;-

ami bleeding mouth. This circumstance convinced me that trout,
like many of the sons of men, have short memories, and also tliat
the individual in question was a perfect Ilicheliuu or Greneral
Taylor in his way, for he seemed to know no such word as fail.
As to the trout that I did not capture, I vorily believe that he
must have weighed two pounds; but as ho was, probably, a
superstitious gentleman, he thought it the better part of valour,
somewhat like Santa Anna, to treat the steel of his enemy with
contempt.

The brook of which I have been speaking, is only twenty-five
miles from Lake Horicon, and unquestionably one of the best
streams for the angler in the Scaroon valley. The Trout Brook
Pavilion, at the mouth of it, kept by one Lockwood, is a com-
fortable inn ; and his right hand man, named Kipp, is a very
fine fellow and a genuine angler.

Speaking of the above friends, reminds me of another, a fine
man, named Lyndsey, who keepeth a tavern about ten miles
north of Scaroon lake. His dwelling is delightfully situated in
the centre of a deep valley, and is a nice and convenient place to
stop at, for those who are fond of fishing, and admire romantic
scenery. His family, including his wife, two daughters and one son,
not only know how to make their friends comfortable, but they
seem to have a passion for doing kind deeds. ' During my stay
at this place, I had the pleasure of witnessing a most interesting
game, which seems to be peculiar to this part of the country.
It was played with the common ball, and by one hundred sturdy
farmers. Previous to the time alluded to, fifty Scaroon players
had challenged an equal number of players from a neighbouring
village named Moriah. The conditions were that the defeated
party should pay for a dinner, to be given by my friend Lyndsey.
They commenced playing at nine o'clock, and the game was
ended in about three hours, the Scaroon party having won by
about ten counts in five hundred. The majority of the players
varied from thirty to thirty-five years of age, though some of the
most expert of them were verging upon sixty years. They
played with the impetuosity of school-boys, and there were some
admirable feats performed in the way of knocking and catching

THE SCAEOON COUNTRY.

101

the^ball. Some of tlie inon could number tlieir acres by thou-
sands, and all of thom were uccustomed to sovoro labour, and»yet
they thought it absolutely necessary to participate occasionally
in this manly and fatiguing sport. The dinner passed off in tine
style, and was spiced by many agricultural anecdotes, and as the
sun was setting, the parties separated in the best of spirits and
returned to their several homes.

For fear that I should forget my duty, I would now introduce
to my reader a sheet of water embosomed among thcde moun-
tains, which glories in the name of Lake Paradox. How it came
by that queer title, I was not able to learn ; but this I know, that
it is one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen. It is tive
miles long, and surrounded with uncultivated mountains, except-
ing at its foot, where opens a beautiful plain, highly cultivated
and dotted with a variety of rude but exceedingly comfortable
farm-houses. The shores of Lake Paradox are rocky, the water
deep and clear, abounding in tisli, and the lines of the mountaiud
are picturesque to an uncommon degree.

But it is time that I should turn from particulars to a general
description of the Scaroon country. — Though this is an agricul-
tural region, the two principal articles of export are lumber and
iron. Of the former the principal varieties are pine, hemlock,
and spruce, and two establishments for the manufacture of iron
are abundantly supplied with ore from the surrounding moun-
tains. Potatoes of the finest quality flourish here, also wheat
and corn. The people are moitly Americans, intelligent, vir-
tuous, and industrious, and are as comfortable and happy as any
in the State.

102 ADVENTURES IS THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER XIII.

TIIK ADIRONDAC MOUNTAINS.

JonN Cheney's Cabin.

The Adirondac Mountains are situated on the extreme head
waters of the Hudson, in the counties of Essex and Hamilton,
and about foi-ty miles west of Lake Cliamplain. They vaiy from
five hundred to live thousand feet in height, and with few excep-
tions, are covered with dense forests. They lord it over the most
extensive wilderness region in the Empire State, and as I have
recently performed a pilgrimage among them, I now purpose to
give an account of what I saw and heard during my expedition.

The tourist who visits these mountains, finds it necessary to
leave the mail road near Lyndsey's Tavern, on the Scaroon. If
Fortune smiles upon him, he will he able to hire a horse to take
liim in the interior, or perhaps obtain a seat in a lumber waggon;
but if not, he must try the mettle of his legs. With regard to
my own case, fortune was non-committal ; for while she com-
pelled nie to go on foot, she supjilied me with a pair of temporary
companions, who were going into the interior to see their friends,
and have a few days' sport in the way of fishing and hunting.
One of my friends (both of whom were young men) was a farmer,
who carried a rifle, and the other a travelling country musician,
who carried a fiddle. Our first day's tramp took us about fif-
teen miles, through a hilly, thickly-wooded, and houseless wilder-
ness, to the Boreas river, wliere we found a ruined log shantee,
in which we concluded to spend tlie night. We reached this
lonely spot at about three o'clock in the afternoon ; and having
previously been told that the Boreas was famous for trout, two
of us started after a mess of fish, while the fiddler was appointed
to the office of wood-chopper to the expedition. The Boreas at

THE ADIRONDAC MOUNTAINS.

103

this point is about one hundred feet broad — winds throuj(h a
woody valley, and is cold, rapid, and clear. The entire river
does not differ materially, as I understand, from the point alluded
to, for it waters au unknown wilderness. I bribed my farmer
friend to ascend the river, and, having pocketed a variety of flies,
I started down the stream. I proceeded near half a mile, when I
came to a still water jxiol, which seemed to be quite extensive, and
very deep. At the head of it, midway in the stream, waa an
immense boulder, which I succeeded in surmounting, and whence
I threw a red hackle for upwards of three hours. I never saw
trout jump more beautifully, and it was my luck to basket
thirty-four, twenty-one of which averaged three-quarters of
a pound, but the remaining thirteen were small. Satisfied
with my luck, I returned to the shantee, where I found my
companions ; one of them sitting before a blazing fire and
fiddling, and the other busily emi^ioyed in cleaning the trout he
had taken. '' -

In due time followed the principal event of the day, which
consisted in cooking and eating a wilderness supper. We had
brought a supply of pork and bread, and each one having pre-
pared for himself a pair of Avooden forks, we proceeded to roast
our trout and pork before a huge fire, using the drippings of the
latter for seasoning, and water for our beverage. We spent the
two following hours in smoking an«l telling stories, and having
made a bed of spruce bough.-, and repaired the rickety partition
which divided one end of the cabin from the other end, which
was all open, we retired to repose. We had no blankets with
us, and an agreement was therefore entered into, that we should
take turns in replenishing the fire during the night. An
awfully dark cloud settled upon the wilderness, and by the
music of the wind among the hemlock-trees, we were soon lulled
into a deep slumber.

A short time after midnight, while dreaming of a certain pair
of eyes in the upper part of Broadway, I was awakened by a
footstep on the outside of the cabin. I brushed open my eyes,
but could see nothing but the faint glimmer of an expiring ember
on the hearth. I held my breath, and listened for the mysterious

104

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

footstep ; I heard it not, but sometbing a little more exciting,—*
the scratching of a huge paw upon our sisnder door. In an
exceedingly short time, I roused my bed-fellows, and told them
what I had heard. They thought it must be a wolf, and as we
were afraid to drive him away, yet anxious to take his hide, it
was resolved that I should hold a match, and the farmer should
fire his rifle .in the direction of the mysterious noise ; which
operation was duly performed. A large pine torch was then
lighted, the rifle reloaded, and the heroes of the adventure
marched into the outer hall of the cabin, where we found a few
drops of blood, and the muddy tracks of what we supposed to
be a wild cat. The rifleman and myself then commissioned the
fiddler to make a fire, when we again threw ourselves upon the
hemlock oouch.

The fiddler attended faithfully to his duty, and in less than
twenty minutes he had kindled a tremendous blaze. The
brilliant and laughing flame had such an exhilarating influence
upon his nerves, that he seized his instrument and commenced
playing, partly for the purpose of keeping ofi" the wild animals,
but mostly for his own amusement. Then laying aside his fid-
dle, he began to sing a variety of uncouth, as well as plaintive
songs, one of which was vague, but mournful in sentiment, and
more wild in melody, as I thought at the time, than any thing
I had ever before heard. I could not find out by whom it was
written, or what was its exact import; but in the lonely place
where we were sleeping, and at that hour, it made a very deep
impression on my miiid.

But sleep, the " dear mother of fresh thoughts and joyous
health," soon folded the singer and his listener in her embrace,
and with the rising sun we entered upon the labours of another
day. While the fiddler prepared our breakfast out of the few
remaining trout, the rifleman went out and killed a large hare,
and I took a sketch of the cabin where we had lodged.

After breakfast, we shouldered our knapsacks, and sUrted for
the Hudson, We struck this noble river at the embryo city of
Tahawus, where we found a log house and an unfinished saw-mill.
Here we also discovered a canoe, which we boarded, and navi-

J-^JIJ.^

THE ADIRONDAC MOUNTAINS.

105

citing,—*
In an
aid them
nd a3 we
s hide, it
51* should
I ; which
yas then
dventure
nd a few
)posed to
Loned the
upon the

less than
-ze. The
influence
mmenced
animals,
e his fid-
plaintive
aent, and
luy thing
•m it was
lely place
rery deep

d joyous
embrace,
■ another
the few
rge hare,

jarted for
'•o city of
saw-mill,
md navi*

gated the stream to Lake Sanford. This portion of the Hudson
is not more than one hundred feet broad, but very deep and
picturesque. On leaving our canoe, we made our way up a moun-
tain road, and after walking about four miles, came out upon an
elevated clearing, of some two hundred acres, in the centre of
which was a solitary log cabin, with a retinue of out-houses, and
this was the famous Newcomb Farm.

The attractions of this spot are manifold, for it lies in the
vicinity of Moose Lake and Lake Delia, and commands the finest
distant prospect of the Adirondac moimtains which has yet been
discovered.

Moose Lake lies at the west of the farm, and about six miles
distant. It is embosomed among mountains, and the fountain
head of Cold River, which empties into the St. Lawrence. In
fonn it is so nearly round that its entire shore may be seen at
one view; the bottom is covered with white sand, and the water
is remarkably cold and clear. Considering its size, it is said to
contain more trout than any lake in this wilderness, and it is
also celebrated as a watering-place for deer and moose. In fishing
from the shore, one of our party caught no less than forty pounds
of trout in about two hours. There were two varieties, and they
varied from one to two pounds in weight. Our guide to this
lake, where we encamped for one night, was Steuben Hewitt,
the keeper of Newcomb Farm, who is quite a hunter. This
woodsman got the notion into his head that he must have a veni-
son steak for his supper. We had already seen some half-dozen
deer walking along the opposite margin of the lake, but Steuben
told us that he would wait until after dark to capture his game.
He also told us that the deer were in the habit of visiting the
wilder lakes of this region at night, for the purpose of escaping
the tormenting flies, and as he spoke so confidently of what he
intended to accomplish, we awaited his effort with a degree of
anxiety. Soon as the quiet night had fairly set in, he shipped
himself on board a wooden canoe, (a rickety affair, originally be-
queathed to this lake by some departed Indian,) in the bow i of
which was a fire jack, or torch-holder. Separating this machine
from himself, as he sat in the centre of the canoe, was a kind of

106

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

i; 'I

screen made of bark, which was sufficiently elevated to allow hiro
to fire his gun from underneath ; and in this predicament, with
a loaded rifle by his side, did he paddle into the lake. After
floating upon the water for an hour, in silence, he finally heard
a splashing near the shore, and immediately lighting his torch,
he noiselessly proceeded in the direction of the sound, when he
discovered a beautiful deer, standing knee deep in the water, and
looking at him in stupified silence. The poor creature could dis-
cover nothing but the mysterious light, and while standing in
the most interesting attitude imaginable, the hunter raised his
rifle, and shot it through the heart. In half an hour from that
time, the carcass of the deer was hanging on a dry limb near our
camp fire, and I was lecturing the hard-hearted hunter on the
cruelty of 'thus capturing the innocent creatures of the forest.
To all my remarks, however, he replied, " They were given us for
food, and 'it matters not how we kill them."

Lake Delia, through which you have to pass in going to Moose
Lake, lies about two miles west of Newcomb Farm. It is
four miles long, and less than one mile in width, and completely
surrounded with wood-crowned hills. Near the central portion
this lake is narrow, and so shallow that a rude bridge has
been thrown across for the accommodation of the farm people.
The water under this bridge is only about four feet deep, and
this was the only spot in the lake where I followed my favourite
recreation. I visited it on one occasion, with my companions,
late in the afternoon, when the wind was blowing, and we enjoyed
rare sport in angling for salmon trout, as well as a large species
of common trout. I do not know the number that we took, but
I well remember that we had more than we could conveniently
carry. Usually, the salmon trout are only taken in deep water,
but in this, and in Moose Lake, they seem to be as much at home
in shallow as in deep water. On one occasion I visited Lake
Delia alone at an early hour in the morning. It so happened
that I took a rifle along with me, and while quietly throwing
my fly on the old bridge, I had an opportunity of using the gun
to some purpose. My movements in that lonely place were so
exceedingly still, that even the wild animals were not disturbed

THE ADIRONDAC MOUNTAINS.

107

lUow hiro
ent, witii
3. After
[\y hearvi
lis torch,
when he
'^ater, and
could dis-
inding in
'aised hia
rom that
near our
r on the
tie forest,
ren us for

to Moose
a. It is
)mpletely
,1 portion
'idge has
a people,
leep, and
favourite
ipanions,
B enjoyed
e species
took, but
i?^eniently
ep water,
L at home
;ed Lake
lappened
;hrowing
the gun
were so
listurhed

by my presence; for while I stood there, a large fat otter made
his appearance, and when he came within shooting distance, I
gave him the contents of my gun, and he disappeared. I related
the adventure to my companions, on my return to the farm, but
they pronounced it a " fish story." My veracity was vindicated,
however ; for, on the following day, they discovered a detid otter
on the lake shore, and concluded that I had told the truth.

I must not conclude this chapter without giving my reader
an additional paragraph about the Newcomb Farm. My friend
Steuben Hewitt's nearest neighbour is eight miles off, and as his
family is small, it may be supposed that he leads a retired life.
One of the days that I spent at his house, was quite an eventful
one with him, for a town election was held there. The electors
met at nine o'clock, and the poll closed at five ; and as the num-
ber of votes polled was seven, it may well be imagined that the
excitement was intense. But with all its loneliness New-
comb Farm is well worth visiting, if for no other purpose than
to witness the panorama of mountains which it commands. On
every side but one may they be seen, fading away to mingle their
deep blue with the lighter hue of tlie sky, but the chief among
them all is old Tahawus, King of the Adirondacs. The country
out of which this mountain rises, is an imposing alpine wilder-
ness; and, as it has long since been abandoned by the rca man,
the solitude of its deep valleys and lonely lakes for the most part,
is now more impressive than that of the far-ofi" Rocky Mountains.
The meaning of the Indian word Tahawus is sky-piercer or sky-
splitter; and faithfully describes the appearance of the mountain.
Its actual elevation above the level of the sea is five thousand
four hundred and sixty-seven feet; Mount Washington, in
New Hampshire, is six thousand two hundred and thirty-four,
making a difference of only seven hundred and sixty-seven
feet in favour of Washington. Though Tahawus is not quite
so lofty as its New England brother, yet its form is by far the
most picturesque and imposing. Taken together, they are the
highest pair of mountains in the Northern states.

Before going one step further, I must allude to what I deem
the folly of a certain state geologist, in attempting to name the

108

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

prominent peaks of the Adirondac mountains after a brotherhood
of living men. If he is to have his way in this matter, the
beautiful name of Tahawus will be super.^eil ;d by that of Marcy,
and several of Tahawus' brethren are hereafter to be known as
Mounts Seward, Wright, and Young. Now, if this business is
not supremely ridiculous, I must confess that I do not know the
meaning of that. word. A pretty idea, indeed, to scatter to the
winds the ancient poetry of the poor Indian, and perpetuate in
its place the names of living politicians ! For my part, I agree
most decidedly with the older inhabitants of the Adirondac
wilderness, who look with obvious indifference upon the attempt-
ed usurpation of the geologist already mentioned.

For nine months in the year old Tahawus is covered with a
crown of snow, but there are spots among its fastnesses where
you may gather ice and snow even in the dog-days. The base of
this mountain is covered with a luxuriant forest of pine, spruce,
and hemlock, while the summit is ctethed in a net-work of
creeping trees, and almost destitute of the green which should
characterise them. In ascending its sides when near their sum-
mit, you are impressed with the idea that your pathway may be
smooth ; but as you proceed, you are constantly annoyed by pit-
falls, into which your legs are foolishly poking themselves, to the
great annoyance of your back-bone and other portions of your
body which are naturally straight.

I ascended Tahawus as a matter of course, and in making the
trip I travelled some twenty miles on foot and through the
pathless woods, employing for the same the better part of two
days. My companion on this expedition was John Cheney (of
whom I have something to write hereafter) ; and, as he did not
consider it prudent to spend the night on the summit, we only
spent about one hour gazing upon the panorama from the top,
and then descended about half-way down the mountain, where
we built our watch-fire. The view from Tahawus is rather
unique. It looks down upon what appears to be an uninhabited
wilderness, with mountains fading to the sky in every direction, and
where, on a clear day, you may count not less than twenty-four
Likes, including Champlain,Horicon, Long Lake, and Lake Pleasant.

THE ADIRONDAC MOUNT AISS.

109

otherhood
latter, the
of Marcy,
known as
)usine33 is
i know the
ber to the
^etuate in
t, I agree
A.dirondac
Q attempt-

3d with a
ises where
'he base of
le, spruce,
it-work of
ch should
their sum-
ay may be
'■ed by pit-
ves, to the
LS of your

taking the
rough the
,rt of two
]Jheney (of
16 did not
, we only
1 the top,
in, where
is rather
linhabited
)ction, and
renty-four
3 Pleasant.

While trying to go to sleep on the night in question, as I lay
by the side of my friend Cheney, he gave me an account of the
manner in whicj certain distinguished gentlemen have ascended
Mount Tahawus, for it must be known that he officiates as tho
guide of all travellers in this wild region. Among those to whom
he alluded were Ingham and Colo, the artists ; and Hoffman and
Headley, the travellers. He told me that Mr. Ingham fainted a
number of timea in making the ascent, but became so excited
with all that he saw, he determined to persevere, and finally
succeeded in accomplishing the difficult task. " Mr. Hoffman," he
said, " in spite of his lameness, would not be persuaded by words
that he could not reach the summit j and when he finally discover-
ed that this task was utterly beyond his accomplishi'ient, his dis-
appointment seemed to have no bounds."

The night that I spent on Tahawus was not distinguished by
any event more remarkable than a regular built rain-storm. Our
canopy was composed of hemlock branches, and our only cover-
ing was a blanket. The storm did not set in until about midnight,
and my first intimation of its approach was the falling of rain
drops directly into my ear, as I snugged up to my bed-fellow for
the purpose of keeping warm. Desperate, indeed, were the
efforts I made to forget my condition in sleep, as the rain fell
more abundantly, and drenched me, as well as my companion, to
the very skin. The thunder bellowed as if in tho enjoyment of
a very happy frolic, and the lightning seemed determined to root
up a few trees in our immediate vicinity, as if for the purpose
of giving us more room. Finally Cheney rose from his pillow
(which was a log of wood), and proposed that we should quaff a
little brandy to keep us from catching cold, which we did, and
then made another attempt to reach the land of Nod. * * ♦
At the break of day we were awakened from a short but refresh-
ing sleep, by the singing of birds, and when the cheerful moon-
light had reached the bottom of the raviner, we were enjoying a
comfortable breakfast in the cabin of my friend.

The principal attractions associated with Tahawus, are tho
Indian Pass, the Adirondac Lakes, the Adirondac iron-works,
and the mighty hunter of the Adirondacs, John Cheney. Tho

110

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

Pass, so called, is only an old-fashioned notch between the
mountains. On one side is a perpendicular precipice, rising to the
height of eleven hundred feet; and, on. the other, a wood-covered
mountain, ascending far up into the sky, at an angle of forty-five
degrees. Through this pass flows a tiny rivulet, over which the
rocks are so thickly piled, as frequently to form pitfalls that
measure from ten to thirty feet in depth. Some of these holes
are never destitute of ice, and are cool and comfortable even at
midsummer. The Pass is nearly half a mile in length, and, at
one point, certain immense boulders have come together and
formed a cavern, which is called the "meeting-house," and is,
perhaps, capable of containing one thousand people. The rock
on either side of the Pass is a grey granite, and its only inhabitants
are eagles, which are very abundant, and occupy the most con-
Bpicuous crag in the notch.

The two principal lakes which gem the* Adirondac wilderness,
are named Sanford and Henderson, after the two gentlemen who
first purchased land upon their borders. The former is five miles
in length, and the latter somewhat less than three, both of them
varvinff in width from half a mile to a mile and a half. The
mountains which swoop down to their bosoms are covered with
forest, and abound in a great variety of large game. There is
not, to my knowledge, a single habitation on either of the lakes,
and the only smoke ever seen to ascend from their lonely recesses,
comes from the watch-fire of the hunter, or the encampment of
surveyors and tourists. The water of these lakes is cold and deep,
and moderately supplied with salmon-trout. Lake Henderson
is admirably situated for the exciting sport of deer-hunting, and
tliough it contains two or three canoes, cannot be entered from
tlie West Branch of the Hudson without making a portage.
Through Lake Sanford, however, the Hudson takes a direct
course, and there is nothing to impede the passage of a small
boat to within a mile of the iron-works, which are located in ti,
valley between the two lakes. The fact is, during the summer
there is an extensive business done on Lake Sanford, in the
way of "bringing in" merchandise, and "carrying out" the pro-
duce of the forge. It was my misfortune to make the inward

ICA.

THE ADIRONDAC MOUNTAINS.

Ill

)etween the
rising to the
ood-coverecl
of forty-five
r which the
pitfalls that
these holes
ble even at
?th, and, at
gether and
se," and is,
The rock
inhabitants
> most con-

«vildemess,
lemen who
J five miles
bh of them
lalf. The
ered with
There is
the lakes,
y recesses,
ipment of
and deep,
endersou
iting, and
red from
portage,
a direct
a small
ted in u,
summer
, in the
the pro-
inward

passage of the lake in company with two ignorant Irishmen.
Their boat was small, heavily laden, very tottleish and leaky.
This was my only chance; and on taking my seat with a palpi-
tating heart, I made an express bargain with the men, that they
should keep along the shore on their way up. They ji,sseuted to
my wishes, but immediately pulled for the very centre of the
lake. I remonstrated, but they told me that then? was no
danger. The boat was now rapidly filling with ^/ater, and
though one was baling with all his might, the rascals were de-
termined not to accede to my wishes. . The conclusion of the
matter was that our shallop became water-logged, and on finally
reaching the shore, the merchandise was greatly damaged, and I
was just about as wet as I was angry at the miserable creatures,
whose obstinacy had not only greatly injured their employers,
but also endangered my own plunder as well as my life. ,

The iron works alluded to above, are located in a narrow valley,
and in the immediate vicinity of Lake Henderson, at a place
called Mclntyre. Some time in the year 1C30, a couple ot
Scottish gentlemen, named Henderson and Mclntyre, purchased
a large tract of wild land lying in this portion of New York.
In the summer following they passed through this wilderness on
an exploring expedition, and with the assistance of their Indian
guide, discovered that the bed of the valley in question was
literally blocked up with iron ore. On making farther investiga-
tions, they found thttt the whole rocky region about them was
composed of valuable mineral, and they subsequently established
a regular-built iron establishment, which has been in operation
ever since. A gentleman named Robinson afterwards purchased
an interest in the concern, and it is now carried on by him and
Mr. Mclntyre, though the principal stockholders are the wife
and son of Mr. Henderson, deceased.

The metal manufactured by this company is of the very best
quality of bar-iron; and an establishment is now in progress of
erection at Tahawus, twelve miles down the river, where a party
of English gentlemen intend to manufacture every variety of steel.

The iron works give employment to about one hundred and
fifty men, whose wages vary from one to four dollars per day.

112

ADVENTUilES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

Tho society of the place, you may well imarjine, is decidedly
original; but the prominent individual, and only remarkable
man who resides here, is John Cheney, the mighty hunter of the
Adirondacs. For an account of this man, the reader will please
look into the following chapter.

,:• I

■.li'i

JOHK CHENEY, THE XDIHOKDXQ HXTNTEB.

■V' i:*-^y

I ••

CHAPTEP XIV.

JOHN CHENEY, THE ADIRONDAC HUNTER.

John CiiENEY'g Cabin.

John Cheney was bom in New Hampshire, but spent his
boyhood on the shores of Lake Champlain, and has resided in
the Adirondac wilderness about thirteen years. He has a wife
and one child, and lives in a comfortable cabin in the wild village
of Mclntyre. His profession is that of a hunter, and he is in the
habit of spending about one-half of his time in the woods. He
is a remarkably amiable and intelligent man, and as unlike the
idea I had formed of him as possible. I expected, from all that
I had heard, to see a huge, powerful, and hairy Nimrod ; but,
instead of such, I found him small in stature, and bearing more
the appearance of a modest and thoughtful student.

The walls of his cosy little house, containing one principal
room, are ornamented wioh a large printed sheet of the Declaration
of Independence, and two engrave<' portraits of Washington and
Jackson. Of guns and pistols he has an abundant supply, and
also a good stock of eU the conveniences for camping among the
mountains. He keeps one cow, which supplies his family with
all the milk they need ; but his favourite animals are a couple of
hunting dogs named Buck and Tiger.

As summer is not the time to accomplish much in the way of
my adventures with John Cheney have not been
distinguished by any stirring events; we have, however, enjoyed
some rare sport in the way of fishing, and obtained some glorious
views from the mountain peaks of this region. But the conver-
sation of this famous Nimrod has interested me exceedingly, and
wherever we might be, under his own roof, or by the side of our
mountain watch-fires, I have kept him busy in recounting hia

hunting.

114

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AHERICA.

former adventures. I copied into my rote-book nearly every
thing he said, and now present ray readers with a few extracts
relating to his hunting exploits. I shall use hia own words as
nearly an I can remember them.

* * * *

"I was always fond of hunting, and the first animal f killed
was a fox ; I was then ten years of ago. Even from childhood,
I was so in love with the woods that I not only neglected school,
but was constantly borrowing a gun, or stealing the one belonging
to my father, with which to follow my favourite amusement.
He found it a useless business to make a decent boy of me,
and in a fit of desperation he one day presented me with a
common fowling-piece. I was the youngest of thirteen children,
and was always called the black sheep of the family. I have
always enjoyed good health, and am forty-seven years of age;
but I have now passed my prime, and don t care about exposing
myself to any useless dangers.

# # * #

" You ask me if I ever hunt on Sunday ; no, sir, I do not. I

have always been able to kill enough on week days to give me a

comfortable living. Since I came to live among the Adirondacs,

I have killed six hundred deer, four hundred sable, nineteen moose,

twenty-eight hears, six wolves, seven wild cats, thirty otter, one

pantlier, and one beaver.

« * « *

" As to that beaver I was speaking about, it took me three
years to capture him, for he was an old fellow, and remarkably
cunning. He was the last, from all that I can learn, that was
ever taken in the State. One of the Long Lake Indians often
attempted to trap him, but without success ; he usually found
his trap sprung, but could never get a morsel of the beaver's
tail; and so it was with me, too; but I finally fixed a trap
under the water, near the entrance to his dam, and it so happened
that he one day stepped into it and was drowned.

" I was going to tell you something about my dogs, Buck and
Tiger. I've raised some fifty of these animals in my day, but I

JOnS CHENEY, THE ADIRONDAO HUNTER.

llff

arly every
w extracts
Q words as

al r killed
childhood,
jted school,
3 belonging
musement.
)oy of me,
me with a
in children,
y. I have
irs of age;
it exposing

do not. I
) give me a
L.dirondacs,
leen moose,
otter, one

me three
emarkably

that was
lians often
ally found
e beaver's
:ed a trap

happened

Buck and
iay, but I

never owned such a tormented smart one as that fellow Buck.
I believe there's a good deal of the English mastiff in him, but a
keener eye than ho carries in his head I never saw. Only look at
that breast of his ; did you ever see a thicker or more solid one?
He's handsomely spotted, as you may see, but some of the devilish
Lake Pleasant Indians cutoff his ears and tail about a year ago, and
he now looks rather odd. You may not believe it, but I have seen
a good many men who were not half as sensible as that very dog.
Whenever the fellow's hungry he always seats himself at my feet
and gives three short barks, which is his way of telling me that
he would like some bread and meat. If the folks happen to be
away from home, and he feels a little sharp, he pays a regular
visit to all the houses in the village, and after playing with the
children, barks for a dry crust, which he always receives, and
then comes back to his own home. He's quite a favourite among
the children, and I've witnessed more than one fight because
some wicked little scamp had thrown a stone at him. When I
speak to him he understands me just as well as you do. I can
wake him out of a sound sleep, and by my saying, * Buck, go up
and kiss the baby,' he will march directly to the cradle and lick
the^baby's face; and the way he watches that baby when it's
asleep, is perfectly curious — he'd tear you to pieces in three
minutes if you were to try to take it away. Buck is now four
years old, and though he's helped me to kill several hundred
deer, he never lost one for me yet. Whenever I go a hunting,
and don't want him along, I have only to say, * Buck, you must
not go,' — and he remains quiet ; there's no use in chaining him,
I tell you, for he understands his business. This dog never
starts after a deer until I tell him to go, even if the deer is in
sight. Why 'twas only the other day that Tiger brought in a
doe to Lake Golden, where the two had a desperate fight within
a hundred yards of the spot where Buck and myself were seated.
I wanted to try the metal of Tiger, and told Buck he must not
stir, though I went up to the doe to see what the result would
be between the fighters. Buck didn't move out of his tracks,
but the way he howled for a little taste of blood was perfectly
awful. I almost thought the fellow would die in his agony.

I;\

IIG

ADVENTURBS IK THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

Buck in of great use to me, when I am off hunting, in more ways
than one. If I happen to be lost in a snow storm, which is
sometimes the case, I only have to tell him to go ome, and if I
follow his tmicks I am sure to come out in safety; and when
sleeping in the woods at night, I never have any other pillow
than Buck's body. As to my black dog. Tiger, he isn't quite two
years old yet, but he's going to make a great hunter. I am try-
ing hard now-a-days to break him of a very foolish habit of kill-
ing porcupines. Not only does he attack every one he sees, but
he goes out to hunt them, and often comes home all covered with
their quills. It was only the other day that he came home with
about twenty quills working their way into his snout. It so
happened, however, that they did not kill him, because he lot me
pull them all out with a pair of pincers, and that too without
budging an inch. About the story people tell, that the porcupine
throivs its quills, I can tell you it's no such thing, — it is only
when the quills touch the dog, that they come out and work
their way through his body.

♦ ♦ ♦ » '

" As to deer hunting, I can tell you more stories in that line
than you'd care about hearing. They have several ways of kill-
ing them in tliis quarter, and some of their ways are so infernal
mean. I'm surprised that there should be any deer left in the
country. In the first place there's the * still hunting' fashion,
when you lay in ambush near a salt lick, and shoot the poor
creatures when they're not thinking of you. And there's the
beastly manner of blinding them with a * torch light' when they
come into the lakes to cool themselves, and get away from thp
flies, during the warm nights of summer. Now I say, that no
decent man will take this advantage of wild game, unless he is
in a starving condition. The only manly way to kill deer is by
* driving' them, as I do, with a couple of hounds.

" There isn't a creature in this whole wilderness that I think
80 much of as a deer. They are so beautiful, with their brignt
eyes, graceful necks, and sinewy legs; and they are so swift, and
make such splendid leaps when hard pressed; why, I'v( seen a
buck jump from a cliff that was forty feet high, and that, too.

JOHN CHENEY, THE ADIRONDAC HUNTER.

117

without injuring a hair. I wish I could get my living without
killiii<^ thiii beautiful animal ! — hut I must live, and I suppose
they were TD.ado to die. The cry of the deer, when in the
agonie.-i of (leatli, i.s the most awful Hound I ever hoard ; — I'd a good
deal rather h(y<ir the Hoream of the panther, provided I have a
ball ii.> my pistol, and the pistol is in my hand. I witih they
would never speak so.

" The time for taking deer is in the fall and winter. It's a
curious fact, that when a deer is at all frightened, he cannot
stand upon smooth ice, while, at the same time, when not afraid
of being caught, he will not only walk, but actually trot aciosa
a lake as smooth as glass. It's a glorious sight to see them
nmning down the mountains, with the dogs howling behind ;
but I don't think I ever saw a more beautiful race than I once
did on Lake Henderson, between a buck deer and my dog Buck,
when the lake was covered with a light fall of snow. I had put
Buck upon a fresh track, and was waiting for him on the lake shore.
Presently, a splendid deer bounded out of the woods upon the ice,
and as the dog was only a few paces off, he led the race directly
across the lake. Away they ran as if a hurricane was after them ;
crossed the lake, then back again. Then they made another
wheel, and having run to the extreme southern point of the
lake, again returned, when the deer's wind, gave out, and the
dog caught and threw the creature, into whose throat I soon
plunged my knife, and the race was ended.

" I never was so badly hurt in hunting any animal as I have
been in hunting deer. It was while chasing a buck on Cheney's
Lake (which was named after me by Mr. Henderson in comme*
moration of my escape), that I once shot myself in a very bad
way. I was in a canoe, and had laid my pistol down by my
side, when, as I was pressing hard upon the animal, my pistol
slipped under me ?n some queer way, and went off, sending a
ball into my leg, just above the ancle, which came out just below
the knee. I knew something terrible had happened, and though
I thought that I might die, I was determined that the deer
should die first; and I did succeed in killing him before he
rottclsed the shore. But, as soon as the excitement was ^ver, the

lis

ADVEKTURB3 IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

ill

pain I had felt before was increased a thousand-fold, and I felt
as if all the devils in hell were dragging at my leg, the weight
and the agony were so great. I had never suffered so before,
and I thought it strange. You may not believe it, but when
that accident happened, I was fourteen miles from home, and
yet, even with that used-up leg, I succeeded in reaching my house,
where T was confined to my bed from October until April.
That was a great winter for 'hunting which I missed; but my
leg got entirely well, and is now as good as ever.
« « * «

" The most savage animal that I hunt for among these moun-
tains, is the moose, or caraboo, as I have heard some people call
them. They're quite plenty in the region of Long Lake and Lake
Pleasant ; and if the hunter don't understand their ways, he'll
be likely to get killed before he thinks of his danger. The
moose is the largest animal of the deer kind, or, in fact, of any
kind that we find in this part of the country. His horns are
very large, and usually look like a pair of crab-apple trees. He
has a long head, long legs, and makes a great noise when he
travels; his flesh is considered first-rate, for he feeds upon grass,
and the tender buds of the moose maple. He is a rapid
traveller, and hard to tire out. In winter they run in herds;
and when the snow is deep, they generall^r ijve in one particular
place in the woods which we call a * yard.' The crack time for
killing them is the winter, when we can travel on the snow
with our braided snow shoes. ■ *

" I once killed two moose before nine o'clock in the morning.
I had been out hunting for two days, in the winter, and when
night came on, I had to camp out near the foot of old Tahawus.
When I got up in the morning, and was about to start for home,
I discovered a yard, where lay a couple of bull moose. I don't
know what they were thinking about, but just as soon as they
saw me, they jumped up, and made directly towards the place
where I was standing. I couldn't get clear of their ugly feet
without running, so I put for a large dead tree that had blown
over, and walking to the butt end of it, which was some ten feet
' high, looked down ii* ba,fety upon the devils. They seemed to

JOHN CHENEY, THE ADIRONDAC HUNTER.

119

"be very mad about something, and did eveiything they could to
get at me, by running around; and T remember they ran to-
gether, as if they had been yoked. I waited for a good chance
to shoot, and when I got it, fired a ball clear through one of the
animals, into the shoulder of the second. The first one dropped
dead as a door nail, but the other took to his heels, and after
going about fifty rods, concluded to lie down. I then came up
to him, keeping my dogs back for the purpose of sticking him,
when he jumped up again, and put after me like lightning. I
ran to a big stump, and after I had fairly fixed myself, I loaded
again, and again fired, when the fellow tumbled in the snow
quite dead. He was eight feet high, and a perfect roarer.

* * ¥t *

" Another animal that we sometimes find pretty plenty in
these woods, is the big grey wolf; they are savage fellows, and
dangerous to meet with when angry. On getting up early one
winter morning, I noticed, in the back part of my garden, what
I thought to be a wolf track. I got my gun, called for my dogs,
and started on the hunt. I found the fellow in his den among
the mountains. I kindled a fire, and smoked him out. I then
chased him for about two miles, when he came to bay. He was
a big fellow, and my dogs were afraid to clinch in; dogs hate a
wolf worse than any other animal. I found I had a fair chance,
so I fired at the creature; but my gun missed fire. The wolf
then attacked me, and in striking him with my gun, I broke it
all to pieces. I was in a bad fix, I tell you, but I immediately
threw myself on my back, with my snow shoes above me, when
the wolf jumped right on my body, and, probably, would have
killed me, had it not been for my dog Buck, who worried the
wolf so badly, that the devil left me to fight the dog. While
they were fighting with all their might, I jumped up, took the
baiTel of my gun, and settled it right into the brain of the savage
animal. • That was the largest wolf ever killed in this wilderness.
* ♦ ♦ #

" One of the hardest fights I ever had in these woods was with
a black bear. I was coming from a winter hunt. The snow
was very deep, and I had on my snow shoes. It so happened,

120

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMEmCA.

as I was corning down a certain mountain, the snow suddenly
gave way under me, and I fell into the hole or winter quarters
of one of the blackest and largest bears I ever saw. The fellow
was quite as much frightened as I was, and he scampered out
of the den in a great hurry. I was v(;ry tired, and had only
one dog with me at the time, but I put after him. I had three
several battles with him, and in one of these he struck my hand
with such force as to send my gun at least twenty or thirty
feet from where we stood. I finally managed to kill the
rascal, but not until he had almost destroyed the life of my
dog. That was a noble dog; but in that battle he received his
death-wound. He couldn't walk at the time, and though I was
nine miles from home, I took him up in my arms and carried
him ; but with all my nursing I could not get him up again,
for he died at the end of a few weeks,
the best friends I ever had.

That dog was one of

" But the most dangerous animal in this country is the yellow
panther or painter. They are not very plenty, and so tormented
cunning that it is very seldom you can kill one. They are very
ugly, but don't often attack a man unless cornered or wounded.
They look and act very much like a cat, only that they are very
large; I never killed but one, and his body was five feet long,
and his tail between three and four. At night their eyes look
like balls of fire, and when they are after game they make a
hissing noise, which is very dreadful to hear. Their scream is
also very terrible, and I never saw the man who was anxious to
hear it more than once. They are seldom hunted as a matter
of business, but usually killed by accident. .

" The panther 1 once killed, I came across in this manner. I
was out on Lake Henderson with two men, catching fish through
the ice, when we saw two wolves come on the ice in great
haste, looking and acting as if they had been pursued. I pro-
posed to the men that we tnould all go and kill them if we
could. They wanted to fish, or were a little afraid, so I took
my gun and started after the game. I followed them some dis-
tance, when, as they were scaling a ledge, they were attacked by

JOHN CHENEY, THE ADIRONDAC HUNTER.

121

L up again,
was one of

a big panther, and a bloody fight took place. From the appear-
ance of the animals, I supposed that they had met before, which
was the cause why the wolves came upon the lake. During the
scuffle between the animals, it is a singular fact that they all
three tumbled off the precipice and fell through the air about
one hundred feet. Ihe wolves jumped up and ran away, while
the panther started in another direction, I followed his track,
and after travelling a number of hours, overtook him, and
managed to shoot him through the shoulder. He then got into
a tree, and as he was lashing his tail and getting ready to pounce
upon me, I gave him another ball, and he fell to the earth with
a crash, and was quite dead. I then went to the lake and got
the men to help me home with my booty."

i'.i

->v

'O:

'r%

Jg . , » H •

122

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

-4!.4"Ar -^f'-^j:'!-

r I

r-t

CHAPTER XV.

THE HEKMIT OF AROOSTOOK.

Mouth of the Aroostook.

I WAS on my way down the river St. John, in New Bruns-
wick, and having heard that the Aroostook (one of its principal
tributaries) was famous for its sahnon and a picturesque water-
fall, I had taken up my quarters at a tavern near the mouth of
that stream, with a view of throwing the fly for a few days, and
adding to my stock of sketches. I arrived at this place in the
forenoon, and after depositing my luggage in an upper room,
and ordering a dinner, I proceeded to arrange my tackle and
pencils for an afternoon expedition. This preparatory business
I performed in the sitting-room of the tavern, where there hap-
pened to be seated at the time, and reading the New York
Albion, an oddly-dressed, but gentlemanly-looking man. In
form, he was tall, and slender, appeared to be about fifty years
of age, and there was such an air of refinement in his appearance
and manners that he attracted my particular attention. I said
nothing, however, and quietly continued my snelling operations,
until summoned to dinner. While at the table, I sent for the
landlord to inquire about the stranger whom I had noticed, and
his reply was as follows : — " His name is JRobet't Egger; he is a
strange but good man, and lives the life of a recluse; his house
is above the fall, on the Aroostook, and about four miles from
here. He has been in this part of the country for many years,
but I seldom see him at my house, excepting when he wants to
read the news, put a letter in the office, or purchase a bag of
flour."

With this intelligence I was quite delighted, for I fancied
that I had discovered a charact&r, which eventually proved to

7A.

THE HERMIT OF AROOSTOOK.

123

'^!M,'^

>OSTOOK.

ew Bruns-
3 principal
q[ue water-
I mouth of
^ days, and
lace in the
)per room,
cackle and
J business
there hap-
rew York
man. In
fifty years
ppearance
I said
operations,
it for the
ticed, and
r; he is a
his house
liles from
my years,
wants to
a bag of

fancied
proved to

be the case. On returning to the room where the stranger was
seated, I introduced myself by offering him a cigar; and while
fixing my rod, asked him a few questions about the surrounding
country. His replies proved him to be an intelligent man, and
as he happened to express himself a lover of the " gentle art," I
offered him the use of some fishing tackle, and invited him to
accompany me. He refused my offer, but accepted my invitation,
and we started for the Aroostook. He ofiiciated as my guide;
and when we approached the river, which was from two to five
feet deep, about one hundred yards wide, very rapid, and filled
with bridge piers in ruin, we jumped into a Frenchman's canoe,
and were landed on the northern shore. Here we came into a
road which passed directly along the bank of the river ; this we
followed for one mile, until we arrived at a flour-mill, at the
mouth of a large and very beautiful brook, where the road made
a sudden turn towards the north. Dii'ectly opposite the mill,
on the Aroostook side, was a narrow and rapid rift, where, my
friend told me, I was sure to hook a salmon. I did not like the
appearance of the place, but took his advice and waded in. I
tried my luck for some thirty minutes, but could not tempt a
single fish. This, my friend did not undei*stand; ho said there
were salmon there, and thought that the fault was mine. I
knew what he wanted, and therefore handed him my rod, that
he might try his fortune. He fished for nearly half an hour,
and then broke the fly-tip of my rod. As I was cherishing an
earnest desire to take at least one salmon, under the fall^ which
I thought the only likely place to succeed, and towards which
I had set my face, this little accident made me exceedingly
nervous. My friend attempted to console me by remarking,
that, as it was getting tovv^ard evening, we had better return to
the tavern, and take a fresh start in the morning. But this
proposition did not suit me at all, and I promptly said so.
" Just as you please," replied my companion, and so we repaired
the rod, and continued up the river. Very rapid, with many
and deep pools, was this portion of the stream ; and our course
along the shore, over logs and fallen trees, through tangled
underbrush, and around rocky points — waa attended with every

124

ADVENlUttES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

imaginable difficulty, and so continued for at least two miles.
On coming in sight of the fall, however, I was more than amply
repaid for all my trouble, by the prospect which there presented
itself. It was, perhaps, one hour before sunset, and there was a
deUghtful atmosphere resting upon the landscape. Directly be-
fore me, in the extreme distance, and immediately under the
crimson sun, was a narrow rocky gorge, through .which foamed
the waters of the Aroostook, over a precipice of some thirty
feet ; and just belov/ the fall, rose a perpendicular rock to the
height of nearly a hundred feet, dividing the stream into two
channels. The entire middle distance of the prospect was com-
posed of a broad and almost circular basin of very deep and
dark water, skirted mostly with a rocky shore, while directly
across the surface of this pool, winding down the stream, was a
lino of foam, distinguishing the main channel; while the fore-
ground of this picture consisted of a gravelly beach, two bark
wigwams, several canoes, and some half dozen Indians, who were
enjoying their evening meal by the side of an expiring fire.

We held a brief conversation with the Indians, and found out
that they had visited the basin for the purpose of spearing
salmon by torchlight; and while my companion sat down in
their midst to reat himself, I jumped into one of the canoes, and
paddled to the foot of the fall, to try one of my fancy flies. I
fished for about thirty minutes — caught one small salmon — lost
two very large ones, and returned to the Indian camp, where I
had previously concluded to spend the night, provided my guide
did not insist upon returning to the tavern by moonlight. It
so happened, iiowever, that my interesting plan was vetoed by
my companion, who told me that his dwelling was only a mile
off, and that I must go and spend the night with him. I wil-
lingly assented to this proposition, and having picked up the
salmon, we engaged the Indians to ferry us across the basin, and
proceeded on our way. Our path was somewhat narrow,
crooked, and intricate, and as I listened to the roaring of the
water-fall, and thought of the mystery which hung over my
companion, I could not but wonder what I was about, and to
what strange place I was going.

DA.

J two miles,
than amply
e presented
there was a
)irectly be-
under the
ich foamed
lome thirty
rock to the
a into two
st wag com-
T deep and
ile directly
•earn, was a
le the fore-
L, two bark
J, who were
ig fire.
I found out
)f spearing
it down in
sanoes, and
cy flies. I
Imon — lost
tp, where I
1 my guide
ilight. It
vetoed by
)nly a mile
m. I wil-
ed up the
basin, and
it narrow,
ing of the
over my
>ut, and to

THE HERMIT OP AROOSTOOK.

125

In due time, however, we emerged from the woods, and came
out upon the side of a gentle hill, which sloped to the margin of
the Aroostook, and was sufficiently open to command an exten-
sive view of the river. Here my friend told me to tarry a few
moments, for he had a canoe hidden among some willows, and
wished to hunt it up that we might recross the river once more.
I heard his words, but neglected to assist hira, for my whole
attention was riveted by the scene upon which I was gazing.
The sober livery of twilight had settled upon the world, and
the flowing of the river was so peaceful, that I could distinctly
hear the hum of unnumbered insects as they sported in the air.
Oa the opposite shore was a lofty forest-covered hill, and at the
foot of it a small clearing, in the centre of which stood a rude
log cabin — the dwelling-place of my friend. On my left, the
river presented the appearance of a lake : and, apparently in the
centre of it, were two of the most exquisitely foliaged islands im-
aginable. The valley seemed completely hemmed in with moun-
tains, and these, together with a glowing sky, were all distinctly
mirrored in the sleeping waters. Most charming was tliis
evening landscape, and the holy time " was quiet as a nun,
breathless with adoration." But now my companion sui:-
moned me to a seat in the canoe, and we passed over the
stream in safety ; he hauled up his shallop, laid aside his paddle,
and, slapping me on the shoulder, led the way to his cabin,
repeating, in a loud, clear voice, the following words : —

"Alone I live, between four hills;
Famed Rooatook runs between:
At times, wild animals appear,
But men are seldom seen."

On entering the hut, which was now quite dark, as it or.ly
contained one window, my companion turned abruptly round,
and after making a frolicsome remark about my being in his
power, he exclaimed — " That poetry I repeated to you just now
was a home-spun article ; but as you might fancy something a
Uttle more civilized, I would say to you, my young friend, in
the language of Wordsworth's Solitary, ,<< i?

ir6

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

" ' This is my domain, my cell, ' ' *

My hermitage, my cabin, what you will —
I love it better than a snail his house;
But now ye shall be feasted with our best.* "

Soon as these words had fallen from his lips, my friend pi*oceedetl
to collect some wood for a fire, and while I was left to kindle
the flame, he seized a tin-pail, and went after some spring water,
which, he said, was some distance off. In a few moments, I
produced a sufficient quantity of light to answer my pui*pose,
and then took occasion to survey the room into which I had
been thus strangely introduced. Every thing about me seemed
to be oddity itself. First was the huge fire-place, rudely made
of rough stones, and filled with ashes; then the blackish ap-
pearance of the log walls around, and the hemlock rafters above.
In one corner stood a Icind of wooden box, tilled with blankets,
which answered the purpose of a bed; and in front of the only
window in the cabin was a pine table on which stood an inkstand
and some writing paper, and under which sat a large grey cat,
watching my movements with a suspicious eye. In one place
stood a wooden chest, and a half-barrel of meal, and the only
things in the room to sit upon, were a couple of wooden chairs.
The crevices in the walls were stopped up with rags and clay,
and from various rafters deponded bundles of mint, hemlock,
and other useful productions of the wood. A rusty old gun,
and a home-made fishing rod, occupied one comer ; and on every
side, resting upon wooden pegs, were numerous shelves, of every
size and form, which were appropriated to a variety of uses.
On one or two of them were the cooking utensils of my friend;
on another, a Icl of smoky books; and on others, a little of
every thing, from a box of salt or paper of tea, down to a spool
of thread or a paper of needles.

In a few moments my friend entered the cabin, and imme-
diately began to prepare our evening meal, which consisted of
bread, fried pork, salmon, and a cup of tea. Plain was our
food, but it was as nicely cooked as if it had been done by a
pretty girl, instead of an old man, and the comic pomposity with
wliich every little matter was attended to, afforded me much

[CA.

id proceeded
ft to kindle
pring water,

moments, I
my purpose,
which I had
i me seemed
udely made
blackish ap-
ifters above,
th blankets,

of the only
an inkstand
ge grey cat,
n one place
[id the only
oden chairs.
^ and clay,
it, hemlock,
ty old gun,
md on every
'^es, of every
ety of uses.

my friend;

a little of
a to a spool

and imme-
consisted of
in was our
. done by a
posity with
d me much

THE HERMIT OF AROOSTOOK.

127

amusement. One thing I remember, which struck me as
particularly funny. My host was talking about the conduct of
Sir Robert Peel and the British ..rliament, and while in the
midst of his discourse, opened a trap-door leading to his cellar, and
descended therein. I knew not what he was after, and waited
his re-appearance with some anxiety, when suddenly he bobbed
np his ghost-like head, resumed the thread of his remarks, and
held forth in one hand a huge piece of fat pork, and as he
became excited about the conduct of the prime minister, he
occasionally slapped the pork with the remaining hand, and then
shook it in the air, as if it had been one of the bloody Irish-
men to whom he was occasionally alluding. He reminded me
of Shakspeare's grave-digger. I also remember that, when my
fiiend was kneading his bread, the idea entered his head, from
some remark that I had dropped, that I did not comprehend
the meaning of a certain passage in Shakspeare; so he immediately
wiped one of his hands, leaned over for his ragged copy of the
mighty bard, and immediately settled the question to our mutual
satisfaction.

Supper being ended, I pulled out of my pocket a couple of
cigars which I had brought with me, and we then seated our-
selves comfortably before the fire, and entered into a systematic
conversation. The greater part of the talking was done by my
companion, and in the course of the evening, I gathered the
following particulars respecting his own history : —

He told me he ^^as a native of Hampshire, England, and had
spent, his boyhood in the city of London, as a counting-house
clerk. He claimed a good name for his family, and added that
Mr. Jerdan, formerly editor of the London Literary Gazette, was
his brother-in-law, having married his only sister. He avowed
himself about sixty years of age, and had been a resident of
New Brunswick ever since the year 1809. He first came across
the Atlantic as a government agent, for the transaction ot
business connected with the fur trade; and when he settled in
the province, the whole country was an untrodden wilderness.
Since that time he had followed a variety of employments, had
acquired a competence, but lost it through the rascality of fidenda.

128

ADVENTURES IN TUE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

He told me he was a widower, aud that ho had one son, who
resided in Frederickton, and was rapidly acquiring a reputation
for his knowledge of engineering. " It does my heart good to
remember this fact," continued my friend, " and I do hope that
my son will not disgrace hia family, as some people seem to think
I have done. The God-forsaken inhabitants of this region have
a habit of calling me a crazy old man. God be praised 1 I
know they overshoot the mark in that particular; if I have lost
my reason, I can tell the mocking world that I have endured
trouble enough to make even a philosopher a raving maniaa
By patient and unwearied toil, I have won two small fortunes,
but both of them were snatched away, and I was left a beggar.
The home government took pity on me, and offered to make me
a present of land, adding that I was at liberty to make my own
selection. I accepted their o(fer, and selected five hundred acres
on the Aroostook, making the fall we visited this evening the
centre of my domain. I duly received a deed for the property,
and having concluded that my fellow-men were aa tired of me
as I was of them, I bolted for the wilderness, and have lived here
ever since. Yes, sir, for twelve years have I been the only human
inmate of this ruc»>i cabin; I ought to except, however, 'a lucid
interval' of some nine months, which I spent in England, about
four years ago, visiting my friends and the favourite haunts of my
childhood. To enjoy even that little luxury, I was compelled
to sacrifice a portion of my land.

" But why do you not sell your entire property," I remarked,
" and take up your abode among men, where your knowledge
might be made available?"

"Knowledge, indeed!" replied the hermit philosopher; "all
that 1 possess, you might easily hide in the bowl of an acorn. I
do know enough to cast my eyes heavenward, when crushed by
misfoi-tune, but the same knowledge was possessed by the worm
upon which I accidentally trod this morning. What is man, at
his best estate, but a worm ! But this is not answering your
question. My only reason for not selling this property is, that
I cannot find a purchaser. Most gladly would I jump at the
chance, and then I would mingle with my fellow-men, and

^l}iM

THE IIERMIT >r AROOS OK.

12?)

son, who
'eputatioQ
t good to
bope that
n to think
jgion have
•aiyed I I
] have lost
B eadured
ig maniaa
1 fortunes,
b a beggar.
3 make me
ce my own
idred acres
vening the
3 property,
iired of me
e lived here
»nly human
3r, ' a lucid
and, about
,unts of my
compelled

remarked,
knowledge

)her; "all
acorn. I

prushed by
the worm
is man, at

^ring your

^ty is, that

ip at the

^men, and

endeavour to be of them. Tmvellers, who • rmstime pass
through this region, tell me that my property * worth 5000
dollars; I know it to be woi-th at least tlm* trnount out I
should be glad to sell it for 3000 dollars, and that, too, on a
credit of ten years. '* The interest would, indeed, bo a meagre
income, but I have schooled myself in the ways of poverty; and
though it once cost me 2000 dollars, to carry me through a
single year, I can tell you that my expenses for the last five
years have not averaged moro than twenty dollars, which I have
had to obtain as best I could. But you must not misunderstand
me. The little clearing which surrounds my rookery, contains
six acres, and as I cultivate them with all diligence, they keep
me from actual starvation."

" But it strikes me, my dear sir, that you ask rather an extra-
vagant price for your uncultivated land?" I asked this question
with a view of obtaining some information in reference to the
valley of the Aroostook, and was not disappointed. The reply
of my friend was as follows : —

" I can convince you that you are mistaken. In the first
place, the water privilege which my land covers, is acknowledged
to be the most valuable on the Aroostook, and I may add that
it is abundantly fertile. And then think of the valley, at the
very threshold of which I am located! It is one of the mcst
beautiful and luxuriant in this northern wilderness; and the
only thing against it, though I say it that should not, is the fact
that nearly five miles of its outlet belongs to the English govern-
ment, while the remainder belongs to the United States. The
whole of it ought to be yours; but if it were, I would not live
here a year; I am near enough to you now; directly on the
boundary line between your country and mine. The Aroostook,
ll verily believe, is one of the most important branches of the St.
I John. Its general course is easterly, but it is exceedingly
Iserpentine, and, according to some of your best surveyors,
{drains upwards of a million acres of the best soil in Maine.
lAbove my place, there is hardly a spot that might not be navi-
[gated by a small steamboat, and I believe the time is not far
Idistant when your enterprising Yankees will have a score of

130

/ ^VENTURES IN THE WIIJ)S OP NORTH AMERICA.

boats employed here, carrying their grain to market. Before
that time comes, however, you must dig a canal or build a
railroad around my beautiful water-fall, wliich, I am sure, could Le
done for 20,000 dollars. An extensive lumbering business is now
carried on in the valley, but its future prosperity must depend
upon its agriculture. Already are its shores dotted with w( U.
cultivated farms, and every year is adding to their number, and to
the rural beauty of those already in existence. The soil of this
valley is rich, and composed principally of what is called alluvial
(not interval) land, together with the quality known as upland.
In many portions, however, you will find some of the most
oharming • intervals in the world. " The trees of this region are
similar to those of your northern States. The staple crop of the
Aroostook farmer is wheat. Owing to the shortness of our
seasons, corn does not arrive at perfection, and its cultivation is
neglected. Rye, barley, and oats, all flourish here, but much
more buckwheat is raised than any other grain besides wheat.
Grasses flourish here in great perfection, and the farmer of
Aroostook will yet send to market immense quantities of cattle.
As to the climate, it is not so severe as is generally supposed.
Snow falls early, and continues late, which prevents the ground
from freezing very deep. And when summer comes, as you may
testify, the. weather is suflSciently warm for every necessaiy
purpose. Now, sir, do you not think I have made out a clear
easel" I answered in the affirmative, and thanked him for the
information he had given me. Like Oliver Twist, however I
was anxious for " more," and therefore endeavoured to start liim
on another 'jubject. In this laudable effort I fully succeeded,
and by merely expressing the opinion that he must lead a very
lonely life in this remote wilderness.

" Not at all, not at all," replied my friend. " It is my good j
fortune to belong to that class of men who depend upon books, ,
the works of nature, and t lemselves, for happiness, and not upon
a selfish and heartless world. As to my books, they are not
very abundant, nor are they bound in fancy morocco; but the
substance of them is of the right sort. Foremost among
them is the Bible, which tells even a poor devil like md|

THE IIERUIT OF AROOSTOOK.

131

Before
buiUl a
coiild be
ss is now
b depend
rith W(^U-
3r, and to
»il of this
id alluvial
13 upland.
the most
egion are
rop of the
jas of our
tivation is
but much
des wheat.

farmer of
53 of cattle,
f supposed,
ihe ground
a3 you may
' necessary
out a clear
lim for the

however I
;o start liim
f succeeded,

lead a very

is my good
upon books,
,nd not upon
hey are not
ceo; but tho
nost auong
5vil like me

that he is a man. Perfect in their generation are tlio truths
of this glorious old Book ; they have an important bearing upon
every thing; and they should bo studied and cherished with
jealous care. But the eai*th-boru men, with wliom I hold daily
communion, are the mighty Shaksixjare, tho splendid Gibbon,
the good and loving brother poets Thomson and Wordsworth,
the gifted but wayward Bums, the elegant and witty Addison,
and the ponderous Jolmson. These are the minds which always
afford me solid satisfaction. As to the immense herd who keep
the printing presses of the present day constantly employed, t
know nothing about them, and care still less. And now a= o
the pleasures which are brought to me by the revolvinif '•e
They are indeed manifold, and it is pleasant to rerr :.. •'

* Nature never did betray the heart that loved her.' '*' i il'
which surround my cabin I look upon as familiar f"^
only when crowned with a wreath of snow, but wh« i i -joicing
m their summer bloom ; and a more peaceful and heart-soothing
stream can nowhere be found, than the one which flows along
by my door; and you know from experience that it abounds in
the finest salmon and trout. The surrounding woods furnish
me with game, but their greatest treasures are the ten thousand
beautiful birds, which make melody in their little hearts, and afford
me unalloyed pleasure for at least one half the year. I seldom
have occasion to kill these feathered minstrels for food, and the
consequence is whenever I go out into my fields to work, they
gather around me without fear, and often come so near as to be
in my very way. The quail and the wren, the jay and the blue-
bird, the mocking-bird, the partridge, the fish-hawk, the eagle,
and tlie crow, and also the swallow, the owl, and whippoorwiU,
all build their nests within a stone's throw of my door, and they
know that the friendless old man will do them no harm. And
then, what exquisite pleasure do I continually enjoy in watching
the ever-varying changes of the year ! First, when the primrose
tells me that the rains are over and gone, and I go forth in the
refreshing sunshine to sow my seeds ; secondly, when the glorious
summer is in its prime, with its dewy mornings and lovely twi-
1 hghts ; also in the sober autumnal time, when I thoughtfiilly

132

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

count the leaves floating on tlie bosom of the stream; and then
again when the cold winds of winter are howling around my
cabin, and I sit in my pleasant solitude before a roaring fire,
3 building palaces in my mind, as I peer into the burning embers.
^ Yes, sir, I have learned to live without excitement, and to
depend upon myself for the companionship I need. I do, indeed,
occasionally steal out of my beautiful vale, and mingle with my
fellow-men ; but I always return perfectly contented with my lot.
After all, I do not believe that the world could add greatly to my
stock of happiness, even if I were a worshipper of Mammon, a
brawling politician, or a responsible statesman."

" But, Mr. Egger, it strikes me that your manner of life is not in
keeping with the Bible, for which you have expressed so much
reverence."

" That may be true," was the reply, " but I make no sancti-
monious pretensions. I do but little to promote the happiness of
my fellow-men, and I congratulate myself with the idea that I do
as little to make them miserable. The influence of my example
amounts to nothing, and I give no bread to the poor, because I
have none to give. But let us drop the subject ; I feel that your
questions may so annoy me that I shall be compelled to abandon
this glorious old wilderness, and become a denizen of the busy
and noisy world."

A breach having thus been made in our discourse, I examined
my watch, and found it to be near twelve o'clock. My com-
panion took the hint, and immediately proceeded to fix a sleeping
place that would accommodate us both. This was done by spread-
ing the clothes of the wooden bedstead upon the floor. While
going through this little operation, he held high above his
head a ragged old bed-qmlt, and asked me what I thought Queen
Victoria would say, if she had such an article to rest her royal
limbs upon? He then pointed to the particular spot which
he wanted me to occupy, giving as a reason for the request, that
there was a hole on the opposite side of his mansion, where toads,
rats, and weasels, were frequently in the habit of entering, and I
he was afraid that they might annoy me, though he had never
been disturbed by their nocturnal visits. This information |

'■-J \

THE HERMIT OP ABOOSTOOK.

. ;>•

133

nd thon
lund my
ing fire,
; embers,
and to
), indeed,
with my
,li my lot.
tlytomy
i,mmon, a

'e is not in
L so mucli

no sancti-
ippinesa of
3L that I do
y example
because I
1 that your
jo abandon
,f the busy

I examined
My com-
jc a sleeping
eby spread-
>or. While

above his
mght Queen
jst her royal

spot whicli
request, that
where toads,
mtering, and
tie had never

information

appeared to me somewhat peculiar, but did not prevent me from
undressing myself to lie down. When about half through this
business, however, I was actually compelled to take a seat on
account of a laughing fit brought upon me by one or two stories,
which my host related for my special benefit. What a strange
man, indeed! thought I, and making another effort, I tumbled
into bed. In the mean time, my companion had stripped him-
self of every thing but his shirt, and in spite of the jfrailty of his
" spindle shanks," was throwing himself into the attitudes for
which Kemble was distinguished, whose acting he had often
witnessed in olden times. I was already quite exhausted with
excess of laughter, and I verily believed that the queer antics of
the anchorite and philosopher would be the death of me. But
I felt that I must go to sleep, and, in self-defence, partly covered
my head with the end of a quilt, and almost swore that I would
not be disturbed again.

I did not swear, however, and was consequently again dis-
turbed. I had just fixed my head upon the pillow, as I thought,
for the last time, when I was startled by a tremendous yell
proceeding from without the cabin. I rushed out of the house
as if the old Harry himself had been after me, and beheld my
spare and venerable friend sitting upon a stump, gazing upon
the rising moon, and listening to the distant howl of a wolf,
with one of his feet dangling to and 6*0 like the pendulum of a
dock. ''Wasn't that a musical yell, my boy?" were the first
words spoken by the hermit mad-cap; and then he went on to
point out all the finer features of the scene spread out before us.
Silently flowed the stream, grand and sublime looked the moun-
tains, clear and very blue the sky, spirit-like the moon and stars,
and above the neighbouring water-fall ascended a column of spray,
which was fast melting into a snowy cloud. After enjoying this
picture for a reasonable time, my companion then proposed that '
we should enjoy a swim in the river, to which arrangement I
assented, even as did the wedding-guest of Coleridge to the com.
mand of the Ancient Mariner. Our bath ended, we returned to
the cabin, and in the course of half an hour, the hermit and the
stranger were side by side in the arms of sleep.

1 11

ijfi

V ' .

134

ADVENTUKES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

On opening my eyes in the morning, the pleasant sunshine

■was flooding the floor through the open door, and my friend, who

had risen without disturbing me, was frying some trout which

he had just taken in the stream. I arose, rolled up the bed, and

prepared myself for breakfast, which was particularly relished by

the giver and the receiver. I spent the forenoon rambling about

the estate of my old friend, and enjoying the surrounding scenery;

I then proposed to him that he should go down and be my guest

at the tavern on the St. John for a day or two, which invitation

was accepted. On my return, I took a sketch of the secluded

vale where stands the cottage of my friend, also a profile of his

own handsome face, and a view of his water-fall. The time of

my departure having arrived, I left my friend with a heavy

heart for my distant city-home, while he returned to his solitary

cottage among the mountains.

'».*•*«

THE BIYEB ST. JOHN.

135

unshine
nd, who
t which
3ed, and
shed by
ig about
scenery;
ly guest
ivitation
secluded
le of his
3 time of
a heavy
5 solitary

«. .^■"

CHAPTER XVI.

THE KIVER ST. JOHN.

"Woodstock,

I HAVE recently performed a pilgrimage along the valley of
the lower St. John, and as I am about to leave the river, it>is
meet that I should give ray reader a record of my observations.
The distance from the Falls of St. John to the city of that name,
is two hundred and twenty miles. The width of the river varies
from a quarter of a mile to two miles, and the depth from two
to forty feet. That portion lying north of Frederickton abounds
in rapids and shallows, and is navigated only by flat-bottomed
boats, which are taken up stream by horse power, but descend
with the current. Here, for the most part, the shores are moun*
tainous, and only partly cultivated, with high and picturesque
banks; the lowest portion, however, is of a level character, and
presents the appearance of an ancient and highly-cultivated
country, and is navigated by steamboats, and the common sail-
craft of the country. The soil all along the shores is good, but
seems better adapted for grass than wheat, and I can see no good
reason for its not becoming greatly distinguished as a grazing
country.

The river St. John is not remarkable for any pictorial features
of consequence (though it abounds in beautiful landscapes,)
excepting a place called the Narrows, for this seems to be a
popular name, situated at the , southern extremity. At this
point the stream is not more than five hundred yards wide, and
as it is bounded on either side by a high rocky barrier, the
current ordinarily passes through with great rapidity. The tides
of the ocean ascend about thirty miles, and it is only when tho

136

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

water is high that the point in question can be navigated.
Though these Narrows are a great annoyance to the navigator,
by the lover of the picturesque they are highly esteemed. Kot
only are they beautiful in themselves, but, owing to the peculi-
arity of the place, it is frequently the case, that the broad
expanse of water above it is covered with a fleet of sloops,
schooners, steamboats, towboats, and timber-crafts, which pre-
sent a peculiar and agreeable panorama. The river abounds
with salmon and shad, and the former, though rather small, may
be taken by the angler in the principal tributaries. They are
not sufficiently abundant, however, to constitute an important
article of commerce, and the common modes of taking them are
with the spear and the drift net.

The principal towns on the St. John are, "Woodstock, French
Village, Frederickton, and St. John. The first of these is one
hundred and fifty miles from the mouth, and though a ragged,
yet an interesting village. So far as its natural productions are
concerned, I am disposed to compliment this province in the
highest terms ; but I must say, that the ignorance, idleness, and
gouging character of its common people, have made me quite
willing to take my departure therefrom. The expenses of
travelling aro enormous. Stage fares average about twelve cents
per mile; and if you happen to spend a week at a miserable
country tavern, you -^U nave to pay two dollars per day for
board. "With a few exceptions, there is hardly a country tavern
in the province where the traveller is not in danger of being
robbed. It was my good fortune to be robbed only twice, but I
was particularly fortunate. This is rather severe, but I am
driven to talk in this strain, though T would not be understood
as reflecting upon the better classes of the province.

The stage route from the Grand Falls to St. John passes
through "Woodstock, but the distance from this place to the
American town of Houlton is ten miles, and in this direction
there is also an established sta )je route to Bangor.
"' The next place on the St. John, of any note, is French "Village.
It usually contains a thousand souls — most of them Indians.
They live in frame and log houses, and though they pretend to

THF RIVER ST. JOHN.

137

mgated.
avigator,
)d. Not
le peculi-
le broad
►f sloops,
hich pre-
abouuds
nail, may
They are
mportant
them are

k, French
336 13 one

a ragged,
Lctions are
Lce in tbe
eness, and

me quite
ipenses of
irelve cents

miserable
er day for
dry tavern
r of being
wrice, but I

but I am
understood

ohn passes
ace to the
.3 direction

ich Tillage.

im Indians.

pretend to

do some farming, they are chiefly engaged in hunting and fish-
ing. They are a good-looking race, speak English fluently, and
are the followers of a Catholic priest, who lives among them, and
officiates in a small chapel which was built by the Jesuits at an
early day. This society is said to be one of the most wealtliy in
the province. The chief of the village is one Louis Beir. He
lives in a very comfortable and well-furnished hou?e, is rather a
handsome man, dresses in a half savage manner, and while he
offers his visiter a comfortable chair, he invariably seats himself
upon the floor in the true Indian fashion.

Frederickton is at the head of theJ steamboat navigation, and
distant from St. John eighty miles. Between these two places
there runs a morning and evening boat, and the summer travel
is very extensive. Frederickton contains about six thousand
inhabitants, composed, principally, of li'sh, Scotch, and English.
There are three princiijal streets, running north and south, and
some half-dozen handsome public buildings, including an Episco*
ppl church, after the Tuscan order, a court house, and a college.
The town is situated on a level plain, and its suburbs are made
exceedingly beautiful by the number of rural residences which
attract the eye in every direction. The elm and poplar both
seem to flourish here, and add much to the picturesquendss of
the place and vicinity. The business of Frederickton is c nly of
a second-rate character, and it has become what it is, mf^rely
from the fe,ct that it has heretofore been the seat of government.
This fact has also had a tendency to collect a good society in the
place, and its " ton," though in a small way, have been disposed
to cut quite a dash. The " mother Parliament," I believe, has
recently removed the seat of government to St. John, and the
lovers of Frederickton are sorry and a little angiy.

The city of St. John stands at the mouth of the river of that
name, and is also laved by the waters of the Bay of Fundy. I
hate cities, but suppose that I must stop a moment in the one
alluded to. It is a business place, planted among rocks, contains
some twenty thousand inhabitants, (two-thirds of whom are Irish,)
and in this port at the present time, is moored a fleet of two
hundred ships. Its public buildings are numerous, the finest of

138

ADVENTUBES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

"which are the conrfc-house, an Episcopal church of the Doric
order, another after the GothiCj and a Presbyterian cliurch after
the Corinthian order. The city is defended by a fortress, which
presents a handsome appearance as you approach the port. The
merchants of the place aie chiefly employed in the square timber
trade, and have, heretofore, done an extensive business. This
trade, however, I am inclined to believe, is rapidly running out.
On the opposite side of the St. John river is a picturesque point
or hill, which is called Carlton Hill. It is surmounted by a
massive block-house, and commands an extensive view of the
Bay of Fundy, the spring tides of which rise to the height of
sixty feet, and when coming in, make a terrible roar.

i ■

1 1;.

.' • f ):

'n.r,i\

THE FEMALE HERMIT OF THE ALLEGHANIES.

139

3 Doric
ch after

which
ht. The
timber
This
ing out.
le point
ed by a

of the
eight of

1 ■■

L- K'i

CHAPTER XVII.

THE FEMALE HERMIT OF THE ALLEGHilNIES.

Mouth of Seneca Cheek, Pendleton Countt.

My rid^ from Moorfield to this place, a distance of thirty
miles, has been very interesting. The ten miles of road lying
between that place and Petersburg runs nearly all the way
through a rich bottom land, with nothing in particular, however,
to rivet the attention but a picturesque bluff, on the summit of
which the rocks have been so cu'iously piled as to resemble two
pieces of statuary, representing a crouching panther and a run-
ning deer. At the base of this bluff is a fording place, in cross-
ing which a man was once thrown from his horse, and, having
been drowned, his body was subsequently found in a neighbour-
ing pool of the South Potomac, standing erect, with both arms
extended as if in supplication.

I spent a night with my companions in the dingy-looking
hamlet of Petersburg, where I picked up the following particu-
lars respecting an almost obsolete custom peculiar to this section
of the country. It is termed running for the bottle, and is a
kind of interlude or episode in a marriage celebration. When a
buxom lady is about to be married, eveny body is invited to the
wedding, and two entire days are devoted to feasting and dancing,
when the time arrives that she is to be taken to the residence
of her lord and master. This change of location is accomplished
on horseback, and the groom and bride are invariably accom-
panied by their guests, who combine to form, as they journey in
pairs, a truly imposing cavalcade, varying, according to circum-
stances, from one to two hundred persons. The day of the march
is of course a pleasant one, and the journey to be accomplished

140

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

is perhaps five miles. At the residence of the groom every thin»
is in a state of preparation for the reception of i;he party ; and
with especial care, a bottle of choice liquor, richly decked
out with ribands, has been prepared, and placed upon a high
post at the front gate of the dwelling. While the cavalcade are
on the move, and have arrived within one mile of the desired
haven, the master of ceremoTiies steps aside upon his horse, and
extends an invitation to all the gentlemen preac > t to join in a
race for the bottle, which is known to be in waiting for the
winner of the race, whose privilege it will bo to drink the health
of the bride on her arrival. Fifty of the younger men in the
party have perhaps accepted the invitation extendecJ to them,
and, leaving the procession, they make ready anu start off at
full speed for the much-desired bottle. • The road is winding,
and perhaps stony, and stumpy, and muddy; but what matter?
Away they fly, like a party of Indians after buffaloes ; while
along the road, it may be, cattle are bellowing, sheep bleating,
dogs barking, hens cackling, and crows cawing. The goal is
now in sight ; one effort more, and the foremost horseman is at
the gate, and has received into hia hands from the hands of the
groom's sister the much-desired bottle ; and then ascend the huzzas
and shoutings of that portion of the people assembled to welcome
the bride. Meanwhile the cavalcade comes in sight, headed as
before by the groom and bride, and, as they approach the gate,
the winner of the bottle steps forth upon his horse, and, pouring
a portion of liquor into a goblet, presents it to the bride, and
has the satisfaction of being the first to drink the good health of
her newly-married ladyship. The huzzaSi and shoutings continue,
when, in the midst of the direst confusion, the ladies are assisted
into the house, the horses are stabled, and a regular siege of two
or three days' dancing and feasting and carousing succeeds, with
which the wedding is terminated.

The road from Petersburg to this place runs along the north
fork of the South Potomac, a wild and roaring but veiy beautiful
mountain stream. The river itself is exceedingly serpentiiio, but
the road is vastly more so, and we had to ford the former at least
thirty times, often, too, exposed to considerable danger. The

THE FEMALE HERMIT OF THE ALLEGHANIES.

141

jry thing

rty; and

decked

a high

Icade are

e desired

orse, and

oin in a

for the

le health

1 in the

to them,

trt off at

winding,

matter)

les; "while

bleating,

16 goal is

man is at

ids of the

jhe huzzas

3 welcome

beaded as

the gate,

I, pouring

bride, and

I health of

, continue,

re assisted

5ge of two

Beds, with

the north
' beautiful
'D tiiio, but
er at least
ger. The

Bcehery throughout the entire route is truly superb, fully equal,
in fact, in many particulars, to that of the White and Adirondao
mountains. The hills are covered with forests of luxuriant
gro-w .u, rise in many places to the height of at least three thou-
sand feet, and for many miles present perpendicular walls
from f ve hundred to fifteen hundred feet high. The three most
imposing of the natural stnictures here seen are known as the
Golding Gorge, the Fh-e Cliff, and the Seneca Chasm. They are
all of such a character as to be unpaintable by words ; they are
indeed magnificent and wonderful to a remarkable degree. The
first, for example, located some ten miles from the mouth of the
north fork, is a massive and naiTow opening, through which the
stream forces itself with a stupendous blufi) on the left hand,
hanging or toppling over the stream. The second, four miles
further off on the left, is a perpendicular but narrow, and per-
fectly bare ridge of slate and sandstone towers and turrets,
looming against the sky to the height of more than a thousand
feet; and, at the time I beheld it, the mountain, of which it
forms a part, was on fire, so that the picture which the whole
presented was most magnificent. The third, which is directly
at the mouth of Seneca creek, resembles the second in its
general formation, but is more lofty and fairy-like, gorgeous in
the blended colours of the rainbow, and more frowning and
overhanging in some of its phases.

Delighted, however, and deeply impressed, as I have been by
the scenery of this Alpine land, I have been far more interested
by an old woman, whom I have had the pleasure of seeing. . Her
name is Elizabeth Golding, or Goldizon, and she resides in a log
cabin, entirely alone, directly at the foot of the gorge which has
taken her name. She is of German origin, and represents her-
self as one hundred and twelve years of age. She was bom,
according to her own words, " within a two days* ride of Phila-
delphia, in Pennsylvania, and her father was a soldier in the
revolution under Washington, and she herself was in the
immediate vicinity of the American camp at the defeat of Gen.
Braddock, of which event she habitually recounts a great number
of interesting and thrilling incidents, closing each paragraph with

143

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTiI AMERICA.

^^wf

l» ', I

the remark that the battle field was wet, very wet, with blood.
She haa been husbandless and childless for nearly half a cen-
tury, and for many years has lived, as now, in the solitude of
the mountains, utterly alone. Indeed, every thing about the
old woman is peculiar and strange. She is small in stature, and
her hair (which is white as snow) is very long; when engaged
in conversation, her countenance fires up, and she accompanies
each sentence with the most animated gestures; her voice,
though sti ' strong, is altogether beyond her control, having
an unnatuxal tone; and the wrinkles running entirely over
her face and neck, are as deep as we might imagine them to
be after having been furrowed by the tears of even one heart
for so long a time as a century. She was clothed in the simplest
manner, having upon her head a cap made of common brown
cotton, a frock of blue homespun cloth, and upon her feet nothing
but woollen socks. During the whole time that W9 were in her
cabin she was smoking some bitter weed in a corn-cob pipe, and,
though haggard and worn to a marvellous degree, sht^ had a
pleasant smile ; and when either of her guests happened to utter
something that was novel to her ear, she would exclaim, " Oh
yes, that is wonderful!" Her only means of subsistence for
years past had been obtained by making hickory brooms; but
even this business she had been compelled to give up, for she
could no longer cUmb the mountains to obtain the proper ma-
terial; and, though she seemed to be perfectly certain that she
would be provided for, she expressed the greatest dread of the
county almshouse. We inquired as to her appetite, and she
replied, " Oh, I eats ve?y little ; I never eat much, sometimes
nothing in a whole day, and never more than once a day, and I
am well acquainted with hunger." As to her sleep we also
questioned her, and she said, " That's what troubles me most ;
1 cannot sleep now I am so old, and so I lie on my bed all night
thinking of my ffreat, good, and sweet Father in tlie Heavens.^'
We asked her how she managed to obtain the necessaries of
life, and she said she did not know, only that people who tra-
velled on the road sometimes stepped in to give her a little
coffee or flour, her main stay being a small garden of vegetables, the

th blood.

ilf a cen-

)litude of

,bout the

iture, and

engaged

iompaniea

ler voice,

1, having

rely over

them to

one heart

e simplest

on brown

)t nothinjz

ere in her

pipe, and,

sht^ had a

d to utter

laim, " Oh

stence for

)om8; but

ip, for she

roper ma-

. that she

3ad of the

), and she

sometimes

ay, and I

p we also

me most;

1 all night

Heavens.^*

jssaries of

3 who tra-

er a little

(tables, the

THB FEUALE HERMir DF TIIE ALLEOnANIES.

143

bnsb fence around which had been built by her own hands; and
this garden was the neatest one that I ever beheld. As tc her
sight, it was as good as ever, and she wa.s unacquainted with
the use of spectacles. Wo asked her how much money tihe
would w r nt to support her for a year, and she replied that teti
dollars would take care of hor a long time more thau a year.
As a matter of course, my companions and I made up a little
purse for her benefit ; and when we gave it to her it seemed as
if she would embrace us in spite of us. Indeed, we made her a
number of trifling presents, and she expressed her gratitude by
weeping, and assuring us that her " Father in the Heavens'*
would bless us and make us happy wherever we might go. And
I can assure the reader that tlio tears shed by that old woman
of^ve score years and ten were not the only ones that sprung
into the eyes on that occasion, albeit wo were unused to weeping.
But I have not yet given the reader an idea of the home of
this lonely being : in truth, it bailies description. Her nearest
neighbour is some four miies off, and her only companions in her
solitude are a little dog and a cat. Her cabin stands near the
water's edge, and directly on the hill-side; it is without a win-
dow, but light in abundance comes in from the gaping roof and
sides of the black and mouldering log habitation, the chimney to
which is of mud and sticks, and in a dilapidated condition. Her
bedstead is made of small pine sticks, with the bark still on ; her
couch, consisting of hemlock boughs covered with straw, upon
which are two or three wretchedly worn bed-quilts ; in one corner
of the room are two or three shelves, where are displayed her cook-
ing and eating utensils, the original cost of which (and they were
very old and worn) could not have been more than one dollar.
An old stool answers the purpose of a chair, and a board nailed
to the side of the cabin is her only table; hanging from the logs
at the side of her bed are two or three old gowns, which help to
keep out the air and the rain ; she is also the owner of a spin-
ning wheel;: and from the crevices of the logs around, above, and
every where, depend bui."lies of herbs and faded flowers which,
she has gathered in her rambles ; but there was a taste and neat-
ness displayed in the arrangement of the miserable furniture of

adyentuhes in the wilds of north amebioa.

the room which gave it a really ehoerful aspect. We asked tie
old woman if she never apprehended any danger while thus
living so utterly alone, and she replied, " Of course not ; who
would harm a poor forsaken being like me? I ain't afraid even
of the bears, for it's only last fall that one came down here, and
scratched up my garden, but I drove him off with a big stick."
Up to this point, every thing we saw and heard concerning this
aged woman was strange, but, when we rose to depart, we were
still more astonished by her wild movements and her addre;:s to
the following effect : —

" Men, I thank you for your goodness : 1 cannot read, but my
Great Father, has told me, in my heart, all about it. There is a
Heaven, men, and it's a very happy place; and there is a hell,
men, and it's a very dreadful place : they both vrill never have an
end. Now, men, good bye; you have been good to the old
woman, but we must part; good bye; we shall meet once more,
at the judgment, but for only a short time. Live, men, so that
you may get to Heaven."

And so we left this strange, strange being; and I am confi-
dent that long after her bones shall have mingled with the dust, one
trio of travellers, if still living, will remember with wonder and
] Pleasure their interview "with the Hermit Woman of tlie AU^
ghtmies.

■ ' ■;

; •]

' ':

y\-

- t " ' '

1 ' ■ 1

1 '; -j

1 ■ . 1

i (

'^>l

TOE FALLS OF TALLULAO.

145

ked tlie
le thua
t ; who
id even
ere, and
; stick."
ing this
WQ were
Idre-s to

, bat my
lero is a
i a hell,
' have an
the old
Lce more,
L, so that

im confi-
dust, one
ader and
tJis AVIa»

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE FALLS OF TALLULAH.

G BORGIA.

As a natural curiosity, the Falls of TaUvXak are on a par with
the River Saguenay and the Falls of Niagam. They had been
described to me in the most glowing and enthusiastic manner,
and yet the reality far exceeds the scene which I had conceived.
They have filled me with astonishment, and created a feeling
strong enough almost to induce me to remain within hearing of
their roar for ever.

The Cherokee word TaUulah^ or Tarrurah, signifies the terr^hy
and was originally applied to the river of that name on account
of its fearful falls. This river rises among the Alleghany
mountains, and is a tributary of the Savannah. Its entire
course lies through a mountain land, and in every particular it
is a mountain stream, narrow, deep, clear, cold, and subject to
every variety of mood. During the first half of its career it
winds among the hills, as if in uneasy joy, and then for several
miles it wears a placid appearance, and you can scarcely hear the
murmur of its waters. Soon, however, tiring of this peaceftil
course, it narrows itself for an approaching contest, and runs
through a chasm whose walls, about four miles in length, are
for the most part perpendicular; and, after making within the
space of half a mile a number of leaps, as the chasm deepens, it
settles into a turbulent and angry mood, and so continues for a
mile and a half further, until it leaves the chasm and regains its
wonted character. The Falls of Tallulah, properly speaking,, are
five in number, and have been christened Lodora^ T-empestay
Oceana, ffoncon, and tlie Serpentine. Their several heights are said
to be forty-five feet, one hundred, one hundred and twenty, fifty,

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

and thirty feet, making, in connection with the accompanying
rapids, a descent of at least four hundred feet within the space of
half a mile. At this point the stream is particularly winding, and
the cliffs of solid granite on either side, which are perpendicular,
vary in height from six hundred to nine hundred feet, while the
mountains which back the cliffs reach an elevation of perhaps
fifteen hundred feet. Many of the pools are very large and very-
deep, and the walls and rocks in their immediate vicinity are
always green with the most luxuriant mosses. The vegetation of
the whole chasm is, in fact, particularly rich and varied ; and you
may here find not only the pine, but specimens of every variety
of the more teixder trees, together with lichens, and vines, and
flowers, which would keep the botanist employed for half a
century. Up to the present time, only four paths have been
discovered leading to the margin of the water, and to make either
of these descents requires much of the nerve and courage of the
samphire-gatherer. Through this immense gorge a strong wind
is ever blowing, and the sunlight never strikes the cataracts
without forming beautiful rainbows, which contrast strangely
with the surrounding gloom and horror; and the roar of the
waterfalls, eternally ascending to the sky, falls upon the ear like
the voice of God caUing upon man to wonder and admire. ^

Of the more pecuHar features which I have met with in the
Tallulah chasm, the following are the only ones which have yet
been christened, viz. the Devil's Pulpit, the Devil's Dwelling,
the Eagle's Nest, the Deer Leap, Hawthorn's Pool, and Hanck's
Sliding Place.

TJie Devil's Pulpit is a double-headed and exceedingly ragged
cliff", which actually hangs over the ravine, and is estimated to be
above six hundred feet high. While standing upon the brow of
this precipice I saw a number of buzzards sitting upon the rocks
below, and appearing like a flock of blackbirds. While looking
at them, the thought came into my mind that I would startle
fliem from their fancied security by throwing a stone among]
them. I did throw the stone, and with all my might too, but,
instead of going across the ravine, as I supposed it would, it fell!
out of my sight, and, apparently, at the very base of the diff I

THE FALLS OF TALLULAH.

147

Lpanying
space of
ling, and
ndicular,
(vhile the
I perhaps
and very
cinity are
;etation of
; and you
ry variety
vines, and
for half a
have been
aake either
rage of thei
trong wind
le cataracts
t strangely
roar of the
the ear like
mire. ,

with in the
ch have yet
3 Dwelling,
md Hanck's

ingly ragged
Lmated to be
the brow of
on the rocks
''hile looking
NTOuld startle
stone among
Lght too, but,
would, it fell
ae of the cliff

upon which I was standing. This little incident gave me a
realizing sense of the immense width and depth of the chasm.
While upon this cliff also, with my arms clasped around a small
pine tree, an eagle came sailing up the chasm in mid air, and as
he cast his eye upward at my insignificant form, he uttered a
loud shriek, as if in anger at my temerity, and continued on his ,
way, swooping above the spray of the waterfalls.

The DeoiVs Dwelling is a cave of some twenty feet in depth,
which occupies a conspicuous place near the summit of a precL
pice overlooking the Honcon Fall. Near its outlet is a singular
rock, which resembles (from the opposite side of the gorge) the
figure of a woman in a sitting posture, who is said to be the wife,
or better half, of the devil. I do not believe this story, and can-
not therefore endorse the prevailing opinion.

The EaglC^ ¥est is a rock which projects from the brow of a
chff reputed to be seven hundred feet high, and perpendicular.
The finest view of this point is from the margin of the water,
where it is grand beyond conception. To describe it with the
pen is utterly impossible, but it is just such a scene as would
have delighted the lamented Cole, and by a kindred genius alone
can it ever be placed on the canvas.

The Deer Lea2j is the highest cliff in the whole chasm, measuring
about 1 une hundred feet, and differing from its fellows in two parti-
culars. From suT nit to bottom it is almost without a fissure,
or an evergi'een, and is remarkably smooth; and over it, in the
most beautiful manner imaginable, tumbles a tiny streanr , which
scatters ilb water upon the rocks below with infinite prodigality ;
the purest of diamonds and pearls appearing to be woven into
wreaths of foam. It obtained its name from the circumstance
that a deer was once pursued to this point by a hound, and in its
terror, cleared a pathway through the air, and perished in the
depths below.

Ilawthorn^s Pool derives its name from the fact that in its
apparently soundless waters, a young and accomplished English
clergyman lost his life while bathing; and Hanck's Sliding Place
lis so called because a native of this region once slipped off the
ock into a sheet of foam, but by the kindness of Providence he

i ii,

I i-

148

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

' ^ rescued from his perilous situation, not much injured, but
ionmensely frightened.

-^ But of all the scenes which I have been privileged to enjoy in
the Tallulah chasm, the most glorious and superb was witnessed
in the nigh^^ time. For several days previous to my coming
^ here the woods had been on fire, and I was constantly on the
watch for a right picture of a burning forest. On one occasion,
as I was about retiring, I saw a light in the direction of the Falls,
and determined that I would take a walk to the Devil's Pulpit,
which was distant from my tarrying-place some hundred and
fifty yards. As soon as I reached that place I felt convinced
that the fire would soon be in plain view, for I was on the
western side of the gorge, and the wind was blowing from the east-
ward. In a very few moments my anticipations were realized,
for I saw the flame licking up the dead leaves which covered the
ground, and also stealing up the trunk of every dry tre in its path.
A warm current of air was now wafted to my • ' by the
breeze, and I discovered with intense satisfactioii that an
immense dead pine which hung over the- opposite precipice
(and whose dark form I had noticed distinctly pictured
against the crimson background,) had been reached by the flame,
and in another moment it was entirely in a blaze. The excite-
ment which now took possession of my mind was absolutely
painftil; and, as I threw my arms around a small tree, and peered
into the horrible chasm, my whole frame shook with an indescriba-
ble emotion. The magnificent torch directly in front of me did
not seem to have any effect upon the surrounding darkness, but
threw a ruddy and death-like glow upon every object in the bot-
tom of the gorge. A flock of vultures which were roosting far
down ill the ravine were frightened out of their sleep, and in
their dismay, as they attempted to rise, flew against the cliffs
and amongst the trees, until they finally disappeared; and a
number of bats and other winged creatures were winnowing
their way in every direction. The deep black pools beneath
were enveloped in, a more intense blackness, while the foam and
spray of a neighbouring fall were madd a thousandfold more
beautiful than before. The vines, and lichens, and mosses,
seemed to cling more closely than usual to their parent rocks;

hunti]

THE FALLS OF TALLULAH.

149

and when an occasional ember fell from its great height far down,
and still farther into the abyss below, it made me dizzy, and
I retreated from my commanding position. In less than
twenty minutes from that time the fire was exhausted, and the
pall of night had settled upon the so lately brilliant chasm, and
no vestige of the truly marveiious scene remamed but an
occasional wreath of smoke fading away into the upper air.

During my stay at the Falls of Tallulah I made every effort
to obtain an Indian legend or two connected with them, and it
was my good fortime to hear one which has never yet been
printed. It was originally obtained by the white mm who
first discovered the Falls from the Cherokees, who lived in this
region at the time. ^'It is in substance as follows : Many gener-
ations ago it so happened that several famous hunters, who had
wandered from the west towards what is now the Savannah
river, in search of game, never returned to their camping grounds.
In process of time the curiosity as well as the fears of the nation
were excited, and an effort was made to ascertain the cause of
their singular disappearance. Whereupon a party of medicine-
men were deputed to make a pilgrimage towards the great river.
They were absent a whole moon, and, on returning to their
Mends, they reported that they had discovered a dreadful fissure
in an unknown part of the country, through which a mountain
torrent took its way with a deafening noise. They said that it
was an exceedingly wild place, and that its inhabitants were a
species of little men and women, who dwelt in the crevices of the
rocks, and in the grottos under the waterfalls. They had
attempted by every artifice in their power to hold a council with
the little people, but all in vain; and, from the shrieks they fre-
quently uttered, the medicine-men knew tha+- they were the
enemies of the Indian race ; and, therefore, it was concluded by
the nation at large that the long-lost hunters had been decoyed
to their death in the dreadful gorge which they called Tallulah.
In view of this little legend, it is worthy of remark that the
Cherokee nation, previous to their departure for the distant west,
always avoidi^d the Falls of Tallulah, and were seldom, found
hunting or fislring in their vicinity. . ,

I )

ii«

150 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

iifiA-i' -■.•!-

/'tv'

CHAPTER XIX.

THE HUNTER OF TALLULAH.

Tallulah Falls, GEor^iA.

The subject of my present letter is Adam Vandever, " the
Hunter of Tallulah." His fame reached my ears soon after
arriving at this place, and, having obtained a guide, T paid him
a visit at his residence, which is planted directly at the mouth
of the Tallulah chasm. He lives in a log-cabin, occupying the
centre of a small valley, through which the Tallulah river winds
its wayward course. It is completely hemmed in on all sides
by v/ild and abrupt mountains, and is one of the most romantic
and beautiful nooks imaginable. Vandever is about sixty years
of age, small in stature, with a weasel face, a small grey
eye, an^ wears a long white be>ird. He was bom in South
Carolina, spent his early manhood in the wilds of Kentucky,
and the last thirty years of his life in the wilderness of Georgia.
By way of a frolic, he took part in the Creek war, and is said
to have killed more Indians than any other white man in the
army. In the battle of Ottassee alone, he is reported to iia,ve sent
his rifle-ball through the hearts of twenty poor heathens, merely
because they had an undying passion for their native hills, which
they could not bear to leave for an unknown wilderness. But
Vandever aimed his rifle at the command of his country, and of
course the charge of cold-blooded butchery does not rest upon his
head. He is now living with his third wife, and claims to be
the father of over thirty children, only five of whom, however,
are living under his roof, the remainder being dead or scattered
over the world. During the summer months ho tills, with his
own hand, the few acres of land which constiitute his: domain.

mg r

sions,

region

season

he tell

In ki:

"fire-1
deer,
four-le
largest
was sis
and gri
some d
deer tl
spring
packs 1
pile of
those ^
am tol(
picture
subsist
ramble
exhaus
is ofter
His mi
the ki
"The:
of this
the fir
Itimseli
horribl

THE HUNTER OF TALLULAH.

151

OTCIA.

ver, "the
Don after
paid him
le month
pying the
veY winds
all sides
romantic
xty years
nail grey
in South
Kentucky,
f Georgia,
md is said
aan in the
have sent
sns, merely
lills, which
less. But
try, and of
st upon his
■lims to be
I. however,
r scattered
s, with his
k domain.

His live stock consists of a mule, some half dozen goats, and
several dogs.

On inquiring into his forest life, he gave me the follow-
ing particulars. When the hunting season commences, early
in November, he supplies himself with every variety of shoot-
ing materials, steel-traps, and a comfortable stock of provi-
sions, and, placing them upon his mule, starts for some wild,
region among the mountains, where he remains until the
following spring. The shanty which he occupies during this
season, i« of the rudest character, with one side always open, as
he tells me, for the purpose of having an abundance of fresh air.
In killing wild animals, he pursues but two methods^ called
"fire-lighting," and "still-hunting." His favourite game is the
deer, but he is not particular, and secures the fur of every
four-legged creature which may happen to cross his path. The
largest number of skins that he ever brought home at one time
was six hundred, — among which were those of the bear, the black,
and grey wolf, the panther, the wild-cat, the fox, the coon, and
some dozen other varieties. He computes the entire number of
deer that he ha^ killed in his lifetime at four thousand. When
spring arrives, and he purposes to return to his valley-home, he
packs his furs upon his old mule, and, seating himself upon the
pile of plunder, makes a bee-iine out of the wilderness. And, by
those who have seen him in this homeward-bound condition, I
am told that he presents one of the most curious and romantic
pictures imaginable. While among the mountains, his beast
subsists upon whatever it may happen to glean in its forest
ram.bles, and, when the first supply of his own provisions is
exhausted, he usually contents himself with wild game, which he
is often compelled to devour unaccompanied with bread cv salt.
His mule is the smallest and most miserable-looking creature of
the kind that I ever saw, and glories in the singular name of
" The Devil and Tom Walker." When Vandever informed me
of this fact, which he did with a self-satisfied air, I told him that
the first poition of the mule's name v/as more applicable to
liimself than to the dumb beast; whereupon he "grinned
horribly a ghastly smile," as if I had paid him a compliment,

i !

155

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

Old Vandover is an illiterate man, and when I asked him to
give me his opinion of President Polk, he replied : " I never seed
the governor of this state; for, when he came to this conntry,
some years ago, I was off on 'tother side of the ridge, shooting
deer. I voted for the general, and that's all 1 know about
him." Very well ! and this, thought I, is one of the freemen of
our land, who help to elect our rulers ! , .,.^'

On questioning my hunter friend with regard to some of his
adventures, he commenced a rigmarole narrative, which would
have lasted a whole month, had I not politely requested him to
keep his iri'outh closed while I took a portrait of him in pencil.
His stories all borie a strong family-likeness, but were evidently
to be relied on, and proved conclusively that the man knew not
what it was to fear.

. As specimens of the whole, I will outline a few. On ono
occasion he came up to a large grey wolf, into whose head he
discharged a ball. The animal did not drop, but made its way
into an adjoining cavern, and disappeared. Vandever waited
awhile at the opening, and as he could not see or hear his game,
he con jluded that it had cisased to breathe, whereupon he fell
upon his hands and knees, and entered tbe cave. On reach-
ing the bottom, he found the wolf alive, when a " clinch fight"
ensued, and the hunter's knife completely severed the heart of
the animal. On dragging out the dead wolf into the sunlight, it
was found that his lower jaw had beeii broken, which was pi*obably
the reason why he had not succeeded in destroying the hunter.

At one time, when he was out of ammunition, his dbg^ fell
upon a large bear, and it so happened that the latter got one of
the former in his power, and was about to squeeze it to death.
This was a sight the hunter could not endure, so he unsheathed
his huge hunting-knife and assaulted the black mr^nster. The
bear tore off nearly every rag of his clothing, and in making
his first plunge with the knife he completely cut off two of his
own fingers instead of injuring the bear. He was now in a
perfect ^enzy of pain and rage, and in making another effort
succeeded to his satisfaction, and gained the victory. That bear
weighed three hundred and fifty pounds.

■ f .'

THE HUNTER OF TALLULAH.

158

[ him to
ever seed
country,
shooting
w about
eemen of

ne of his
ch would
d him to
n pencil,
evidently
knew not

On onj
head he
le its way
er waited
his game,
on he fell
On reach-
nch fight"
e heart of
junlight, it
is probably
e hunter.
Ls dbg^ fell
got one of
b to death,
unsheathed
ister. The
in making
two of his
s now in a
other effort
That bear

On another occasion, he had fired at a large buck near the
brow' of a precipice some thirty feet high, which hangs over one
of the pools in the Tallulah river. On seeing the buck drop, he
took it for granted that he was about to die, when he approached
the animal for the purpose of cutting its throat. To his great
surprise, however, the buck suddenly sprang to his feet and
made a tremendous rush at the hunter with a view of throwing
him off the ledge. But what was more remarkable, the animal
succeeded in its effort, though not until Vande»rer had obtained
a fair hold of the back's antlers, when the twain performed a
summei"set into the pool below. The buck made its escape, and
Vandever was not seriously injured in any particular. About
a month subsequent to that time he killed a buck, which had a
bullet wound in the lower part of its neck, whereupon he
concluded that he had finally triumphed over the animal which
had given him the unexpected ducking.

But the most remarkable escape which old Vandever ever
experienced happened on this wise. He was encamped upon
one of the loftiest mountains in Union county. It was near
the twilight hour, and he had hieard the howl of a wolf. With
a view of ascertaining the direction whence it came, he climbed
upon an immense boulder-rock (weighing, perhaps, fifty tons),
which stood on the very brow of a steep hill-side. While stand-
ing upon this boulder he suddeiily felt a swinging sensation, and
to his astonishment he found that it was about to make a fearftil
plunge into the ravine half a mile below him. As fortune would
have it, the limb of an oak tree drooped over the rock; and,
as the rock started from its Toundation, he seized the limb,
and thereby saved his life. The dreadful crdshing of the boulder,
as it descended the mountain side, came to the hunter's ear while
he was suspended in the air, and by the time it had reached the
bottom he dropped himself on tJie very i^pot which had been
vacated by the boulder. Yandever said that this was the only
time in his life when he had been really frightened; and he also
added, that for one day after this escape he did not care a finger's
snap for the finest game in the wilderness.

While on my visit to Yandever's cabin, one of his boys cam.e

154

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

■I ■

home from a jQshing expedition, and on examining his fish I was
surprised to find a. couple of shad and three or four stHpecl baas,
or rock-jish. .They had been taken in the Tallulah, just below
the chasm, by means of a wicker-net, and at a point dibi^ant from
the ocean at least two hundred and fifty miles. I had been in<
formed that the Tallulah abounded in trout, but I was not pre
.pared to find saltwater fish in this remote mountain wilderness.
Since I have introduced the above youthful Vandever to my
readers, I will record a single one of his deeds, which ought to
give him a fortune, or at least a^ education. The incident
occurred when he was in his twelfth year. He and a younger
brother had been gathering berries on a mountain side, and were
distant from home about two miles. While carelessly tramping
down the weeds and bushes, the younger boy was bitten by a
rattlesnake on the calf of his leg. In a few moments after
the unhappy child fell to the ground in great pain, and the pair
were of course in great tribulation. The elder boy, having
succeeded in killing the rattlesnake, conceived the idea, as the
only alternative, of carrying his little brother home upon
liis back. And this deed did the noble fellow accomplish.
For two long miles did he carry his heavy burden, over rocks
and down the water-courses, and in an hour after he had reached
his father's cabin the younger child was dead; and the heroic
boy was in a state of insensibility from the fatigue and heat
which he had experienced. He recovered, however, and is now
apparently in the enjoyment of good health, though when I fixed
my admiring eyes upon him it seemed to me that he was far
from being strong, and it was evident that a shadow rested upon
his brow.

see.

"S^'W^ bk

«v.:

V • •■ ' i.*-^.. >

13LUL MOIJKTAIK.

16S

\h I was
ted ha&Sy
3t below
Eint from
been in-
not pre
Idemess.
Br to my
ought to
incident
yoi^iiger
and were
tramping
bten by a
tnts after
I the pair
f, having
ea, as the
me npon
icomplish.
ver rocks
d reached
lie heroic
and heat
ad is now
en I fixed
le was far
sted upon

■I -;■■;*,'■- : ■ ■• )

t.' I -

• ^

CHAPTER XX.

TRAIL MOUNTAIN.

I NOW write from nef-r the summit of the highest mountain
in Georgia. I obtained my first view of this peak while in the
village of Clarksville, and it presented such a commanding ap-
pearance that I resolved to surmount it, on my -v^'ay to the North,
although my experience has proved that climbing high mountains
is always more laborious than profitable. I came here on the
back of a mule, and my guide and companion on the occasion
was the principal proprietor of Nacoochee valley. Major Edward
Williams. While ascending the mountain, which occupied
about seven hours (from his residence), the venerable gentleman
expatiated at considerable length on the superb scenery to be
witnessed from its summit, and then informed me that he had
just established a dairy on the mountain, which, it was easy to
see, had become his, hobby. He described the " ranges " of the
mountains as aSording an abundance of the sweetest food for
cattle, and said that he had already sent to his dairy somewhere
between fifty and eighty cows, and was intending soon to increase
the number to one hundred. He told me that his dairyman was
an excellent young man from Vermont, named Joseph E.
Hubbard, to whom he was indebted for the original idea of
establishing the dairy. While journeying through this region
the young man chanced to stop at the major's house, and though
they were perfect strangers, they conversed upon matters con-
nected with farming, and soon became acquainted; and the
stranger having made known the fact that he knew how to make
butter and cheese, a bargain was struck, which has resulted in
the establishment already mentioned. The Williams* dairy is

156

ADVENTURES IX THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

H' f

said to be the only one in the entire State of Georgia, and it is
■worthy of remark, that Major Williams (as well aa his dairy-
man) is a native of New-England. He has been an exile from
Yankee land for upwards of twenty years, and though nearly
seventy years of age, it appears that his natural spirit of enter-
prise remains in full vigour.

Trail Mountain ^/aa so named by the Cherokees, from the
fact that they once had a number of trails leading to the sum-
mit, to which point they were in the habit of ascending for the
purpose of discovering the camp-fires of their enemies during tho
existence of hostilities. It is the king of the Blue Ridge, and re-
ported to be five thousand feet above the waters of the surrounding
country, and perhaps six thousand feet above the level of the
ocean. A carpet of green grass and weeds extends to the very
top, and as the trees are small, as well as " few and far between,"
the lover of extensive scenery has a fine opportunity of gratifying
his taste. I witnessed a sunset from th^ij great watch-tower of
the South, and I know not that I was ever before more deeply
impressed with the grandeur of a landscape scene. The horizon
formed an unbroken circle, but I could distinctly see that in one
direction alone (across South Carolina and part of Georgia) ex-
tended a comparatively level country, while the remaining three-
quarters of the space around me appeared to be a wilderness of
mountains. The grandest display was towards the north, and here
it seemed to me that I could count at least twenty distinct ranges,
fading away to the sky, until the more remote range melted into a
monotonous line. No cities or towns came within the limit of my
vision ; no, nor even an occasional wreath of smoke, to remind
me that human hearts were beating in the unnumbered valleys.
A crimson hue covered the sky, but it was without a cloud to
cheer the prospect, and the solemn shadow which rested upon
the m juntains was too deep to partake of a single hue from the
departing sun. Grandeur and gloom, like twin-spirits, seemed
to have subdued the world, causing the pulse of nature to cease
its accustomed throb. " At one stride came the dark," and, as
there was no moon, I retreated from the peak with pleasure, and
sought the rude cabin, where I was to spend the night. While

TRAIL M0UMTA1I7.

157

and it is
is dairy-
cile from
;h nearly
of enter-

from tlie
the sum-
ig for the
uring tho
re, and re-
Tounding
rel of the
► the very
between,"
gratifying
i-tower of
>re deeply
le horizon
bat in one
lorgia) ex-
ling three-
demess of
1, and here
ict ranges,
Ited into a
imit of my
to remind
ed valleys.
a. cloud to
ssted upon
3 from the
its, seemed
re to cease
k," and, as
jasure, and
It. While

doing this, the distant howl of a wolf came upon my ear, borne
upward on the quiet air from one of the deep ravines leading to
the base of the mountain.

As I was the guest of my friends Williams and Hubbard, I
whiled away the evening in their society, asking and answering
a thousand questions. Among the matters touched upon in our
conversation was a certain mysterious " waterspout," of which I
had heard a great deal among the people in my journeying, and
which was said to have fallen upon Trail mountain. I again
inquired into the particulars, and Major Williams replied as
follows : —

" This waterspout story has always been a great botheration
to me. The circumstance occurred several yeara ago. A num-
ber of hunters were spending the night in the veiy ravine where
tills shanty now stands, when, about midnight, they heard a
tremendous roaring in the air, and a large torrent of water fell
upon their camp, and swept it, with all its effects and its inmates,
about a 'Jozen yards from the spot where they had planted their
poles. There were three hunters, and one of them was severely
injured on the head by the water, and all of them completely
drenched. They wore, of course, much alarmed at the event, and
concluded that a spring farther up the mountain had probably
broken away; but when morning came they could find no
evidences of a spring, and eveiywhere above their camping
place the ground was perfectly dry, while on the lower side
it was completely saturated. They were now perplexed to a
marvellous degree, and returned to the lower country im-
pressed with the idea that a waterspout had burst over their
heads."

I, of course, attempted no explanation of this phenomenon, but
Mr. Hubbard gave it as his opinion that if the affair actually
did occur, it originated from a whirlwind, which might have
taken up the water from some neighbouring river, and dashed it
by the merest accident upon the poor hunters. But this reason-
ing seemed to me like getting " out of the frying-pan into the
fire;" whereupon I concluded to "tell the tale as 'twas told to
me," for the especial benefit of Professor Espy.

158

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

'V; ■

But to return to the dairy, which is unquestionably the chictf
attraction (though far from being a romantic one) connected with
Trull Mountain. Heretofore, a cheese establishment has been
associated in my nlind with broad meadow-lands, spacious and
well-furnished out-houses, and a convenient market. But here
%re have a dairy on the top of a mountain, distant from the
first farm-house some fifteen miles, and inaccessible by any con-
veyance but that of a mule or well-trained horse. The bells of
more than half a hundred cows are echoing along the mountain
«ide; and instead of clover, they are feeding upon the luxuriant
weed of the wilderness; instead of cool cellars, we have here a
hundred tin pans arranged upon tables in a log cabin, into which
a cool spring pours its refreshing treasure ; instead of a tidy and
matronly housewife to superintend the turning of the curd, we
have an enteiT^rising young Yankee, a veritable Green Mountain
boy; and instead of pretty milkmaids, the inferiors of this
ostablishment are huge negroes, and all of the masculine gender.
And this is the establishment which supplies the people of
Georgia with cheese, and the material out of which the scientific
caterer manufactures the palatable Welsh Rabbit.

• :-'':*^-' :-■.•■>-■

THE SMOKY MOUNTAIN.

he chielf
led with
las been
ous and
But here
rom the
any con-
) belk of
aountain
uxuriant
B here a
to which
tidy and
curd, we
VEountain
8 of this
le gender,
people of
scientific

< M

CHAPTER XXI.

THE SMOKY MOUNTAIN.

QuALLA Town, North Caholtka.

In coming fror.i iranklin to this place, a distance of thirty
miles, I ti-avelled over a wild, mountainous, and thinly-settled
country, where I wa painri to witness the evil effecto of
intemperance, and made happy by fi, -'owing the windings of a
beautiful river. Having been ow .f;aken by a thunder-storm, I
found shelter in a rude and c .i.^fortless cabi i, which was occupied
by a man and his wife ant' eiglit children. Every member of
the family was barefooted, and one or two of the children almost
destitute of clothing; not one of the children, though one or two
of them were full-grown girls, could read a sinj^jla word; the
mother was sickly and haggard in her appearancei, and one of
the little boys told me that he had not eaten a heai-ty meal for
ten days. I subsequently learned that the head of this household
was a miserable dmnkard.

The river to which I alluded is the Tuck-a-se-ja, which falls
into the Tennes^ > It is a very rapid stream, and washes the
base of many mountains, which are as wild as they were a
century ago. Whenever there occurs any interval land, the soil
is very rich, and such spots are usually occupied. The mountains
are all covered with forest, where wild game is found in abun-
dance. The fact is, the people of this whole region devote more
of their time to hunting tlian they do to agriculture, which fact
accounts for their proverbial poverty. You can hardly pass a
single cabin without being howled at by half a dozen hounds; and
I have now become so well educated in guessing the wealth of a
mountaineer, that I know his condition by ascertaining the

160

ADVENTURES IN tHE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

numher of his dogs. A rich man seldom has more than one dog,
while a very poor man will keep from ten to a dozen. And this
remark with regard to dogs, .strange as it may seem, is equally
applicable to the children of the mountaineei's. The poorest man,
without any exception, whom I have seen in this region, lives in
a log-cabin, with two rooms, and is the father of nineteen chUdreUf
and the keeper of six hounds.

On my arrival in this place, which is the home of a large
number of Cherokee Indians (of whom I shall have much to say
in future letters), I became the guest of Mr. William H. Thomas,
who is the " guide, counsellor, and friend," of the Indians, as well
as their business agent. While conversing with this gentleman,
he excited my curiosity with regard to a certain mountain in his
vicinity, and, having settled it in his own mind that I should
spend a week or two with him and his Indians, proposed (first
excusing himself on account of a business engagement) that I
tihould visit the mountain in company with a gentleman in his
employ as surveyor. The proposed arrangement was carried out,
and thus was it that I visited Smoky Mountain.

This mountain is the loftiest of a large brotherhood which lie
crowded together upon the dividing line between North Carolina
and Tennessee. Its height cannot be less than five thousand
feet above the level of the sea, for the road leading from its base
to its summit is seven and a lialf miles long. The general
character of the mountain is similar to that already given of other
southern mountains, and all that I can say of its panorama is,
that I can conceive nothin,^ more grand and imposing. It gives
birth to a couple of glorious streams, the Pigeon river of Tennessee,
and the Ocono lufty of North Carolina, and derives its name from
the circumstance that its summit is always enveloped in a blue
or smoky atmosphere.

But the chief attraction of Smoky Mountain is a singular cliff
known throughout this region as the Alum Cave. In reaching
this spot, which is on the Tennessee side, you have to leave your
horses on the top of the mountain, and perform a pedestrian
pilgrimage of about six miles up and down, very far up and ever
so far down, and over every thing in the way of rocks and ruined

as mu(
of viev
theatre
ragged
beyonc
mounts
The n(
the ca-s
ance tl
leadinf
you mi
battlei
upon t

ifTiT*f»i

THE SMOKY MOUNTAIN.

161

one dog,
\.nd this
equally
^st man,
I, lives in
chUdreUf

F a large
Lch to aay
, Thomas,
.s, as well
sntleman,
ain in his
I should
)sed (first
Lt) that I
lan in his
arried out,

which lie
h Carolina

thousand
>m its base
he general
en of other
,norama is,
. It gives

Tennessee,
; name from
i in a blue

ingular cliff
;ii reaching
> leave your
, pedestrian
up and ever
and ruined

vegetation which Nature could possibly devise, until you come
to a mountain side, which is only two miles from your starting
place at tjie peak. Roaring along, at the base of the mountain
alluded to, is a small stream, from the margin of which you
have to climb a precipice, in a zigzag way, which is at least two
thousand feet high, when you find yourself on a level spot of
pulverized stone, with a rocky roof extending over your head a
distance of fifty or sixty feet. The length of this hollow in the
mountain, or " cave," as it is called, is near four hundred feet, and
from the brow of the butting precipice to the level below, the
distance is perhaps one hundred and fifty feet. The top of the
cliif is covered with a variety of rare and curious plants, and
directly over its centre trickles a little stream of water, which
forms a tiny pool, like a fountain in front of a spacious piazza.
The principal ingredients of the rock composing this whitish cliff
are alum, epsom-salts, saltpetre, magnesia, and copperas, and the
water which oozes thoi-'efrom is distinguished for its strong medi-
cinal qualities. This strange and almost inaccessible, but un-
questionably very valuable cave, belongs to a company of
neighbouring Carolinians, who have already made some money
out of the alum, but have not yet accomplished much in the way
of purifying and exporting the various products in which it
abounds.

The scenery commanded from this cave interested me quite
as much as the cave itself. From the most comprehensive point
of view two mountains descend abruptly into a kind of amphi-
theatre, where the one on the right terminates in a very narrow and
ragged ridge, which is without a particle of vegetation, while far
beyond, directly in front of the cave, rises a lofty and pointed
mountain, backed by three or four others of inferior magnitude.
The ridge which I have mentioned is itself very high, but yet
the cave looks down upon it, and it is so fantastic in its appear-
ance^ that from different points of view you may discover holes
leading like windows oiiMrely through it, while from other places
you might fancy that joa looked upon a ruined castle, a decayed
battlement, or the shattered tower of an old cathedral. To gaze
upon this prospect at the sunset hour, when the mountains were

162

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

tinged with a rosy hue, and the immense hollow before me -was
filled with a purple atmosphere, and I could see the rocky ledge
basking in the sunlight like a huge monster on the placid bosom
of a lake, was to me one of the most remarkable and impressive
scenes that I ever witnessed ; and then remember, too, that I
looked upon this wonderful prospect from a frame-work of solid
rock, composed of the stooping cliff. 'It was a glorious picture,
indeed, and would have amply repaid one for a pilgrimage from
the remotest corner of the earth.

The ordinary time required to visit the Alum Cave is two
days; but, owing to bad weather, my friend and myself occupied
the greater part of four days in performing the same trip. To
give a minute account of all that we met with would occupy
too much time, and I will therefore only record in this place

the incidents wliich made the deepest impression on my own
mind.

Our first night from home we spent in the cabin of a man who
treated us with the utmost kindness, and would not receive a
penny for his pains. So much for mountain hospitality. And
now, to prove that our friend was an intelligent man, it may be
mentioned that he is an adept in the following professions and
trades, viz., those of medicine, the law, the blacksmith, the car-
j.)enter, the hunter, the shoemaker, the watchmaker, the farmer,
and he also seemed to possess an inkling of some half dozen
sciences. Now, I do not exactly mean to assert that the gentle-
man is a master practitioner in all these departments of human
learning and industry; but if you were to judge of his ability by
his use of technical words, you would not for a moment imagine
he could have a competitor. But so it is in this wild region, one
man has to perform the intellectual labour of a whole district ; and,
what is really a hard case, the knowledge which is thus brought
to so good a market is nearly always the fruit of a chance educa-
tion, and not of a systematic one.

Among those who spent the night with us under the roof of I
the above accomplished man, was one of the idle vagabonds of
the country. This individual, it appears, had met with a singular
accident on the day previous, and amused us by relating it. 1 1

THE SMOKY UOXJ^ADX,

163

! me wag
3ky ledge
dd bosom
aipressive
0, that I
k of solid
LS picture,
lage from

ve is two
f occupied

trip. To
dd occupy

this place
n my own

a man who
i x'eceive a
Hty. And
, it may be
jssions and
th, the car-
the farmer,
half dozen
the gentle-
\ of human
is ability by
Lent imagine
I region, one
istrict; and,
hus brought
bance educa-

the roof of
iragabonds of
Lth a singular
kting it. II

regret that I cannot remember all the singular epithets that be
employed, but I will do my best to report him faithfally.

" Now, the way the thing happened was this, and I reckon
you never heard sich like afore. A lot of us fellers was out in
'Squire Jones's millpond a washing ourselves and swimming.
Now, I allow this pond, in a common way, is nigh on to half a
mUe long; but at this time they were draining the pond, and it
wamt so very large. Wall, there was one spot, well nigh the
middle — ^no, not exactly ; I reckon it was a little to the left —
where the water poured out into a rale catarock. The fellers I
was v/ith got the devil in 'em, and offered to bet the tobaccer
that T couldn't swim near the big hole in the dam without
going through. I agreed, for I always counted myself a powers
fill swimmer. I made one try, and just touched the outside of
the whirlpool. The fellers laughed at me, and said I couldn't
come it. I knew they said what was not so, and I got mad. I
tried it again, and went a bit nearer, when they yelled out
again, and said it was no go. By this time I was considerable
perplexed, but I swore to myself I would have the tobaccer, and
I madt, one more try. But this time I got into the whirlpool,
and couldn't get out; and, in less than no time, the water
whf'^'led my head round to the hole, and in I went quick as a
streak. I went through the hole, 'bout four or six feet long-
no, I allow 'twas seven feet — and fell into the surge below, and,
in live minutes or so — perhaps six — ^ was on dry land, sound
as a button. The joke was on the fellers then, and when I told
'em to hand over my plunder, they said they would, and told
me I looked Uke a big frog when I come out of the hole into
the pool below the dam."

On the following morning we travelled to the foot of Smoky
Mountain, and having obtained a guide, who happened to be
one of the proprietors of Alum Cave, we resumed our journey.
In the immediate vicinity of the cave we came across an Indian,
camp, where were two Indians who were out bear-hunting. We
were admitted under their bark roof, and spent the night with
them, sleeping upon the ground. We remained a sufficient
length of time to enjoy one supper and one breakfast; the first

1 i

StSnCSlir^ 1" 'r.^'J'sfi!>m''ni".i ■ '^^ ■*■»»; •

ICl

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

was composed of corn bread and bear meao, and the second of
trout (caught in a neiglil: juring stream) and a corn cake fried in
tlie fat of a bear.

On questioning our Indian landlords, as we sat around our
watch-fire, with regard to the A. a in Cave, I could only gather
the fact that it was originally discovered by the famous chief
Yo-na-gus-ka, who happened in his youth to track a bear to one
iJK its corners, where he had a den. Disappointed on this score,
I then tiu'ned to our guide to see what he could tell me about
the cave that was not connected with its minerals, and the
substance of his narrative was as follows : —

" I hav'n't much to say about the cave that I knows of except-
ing one or two little circumstances about myself and another
man. The first time I come here it was with my brother and
two Indians. The sight of this strange gash in the mountain
and the beautiful scenery all around made me very excited, and
I was for climbing on top, and no mistake. The Indians and
my brother started with me up the ledge at the north end of
the cave, but when we got up about half way, just opposite to
an eagle's nest, where the creatures were screaming at a fearful
rate, they all three of 'em backed down, and said I must not
keep on. I told 'em I was determined to see the top, and I
would. I did get on top, and, after looking round awhile and
laughing at the fellows below, I began to think of going down
again. And then it was that I felt a good deal skeered. I
found I couldn't get down the way I got up, so I turned about
for a new place. It was now near sundown, and I hadn't yet
found a place that suited me, and I was afraid I'd have to sleep
out alone and without any fire. And the only way I ever got
down was to find a pine tree that stood pretty close to a low
part of the ledge, some three hundred yards from the cave, when
I got into 7 js top, and so came down among my friends, who
said it was a wonder I hodn't been killed.

" I generally have had to pilot all strangers to tho cave since
that time, and I remember one circumstance that happened to a
Tennessee lawyer, who caused us a good deal of fun; for there
was a party of young gentlemen there at the time. We had a

second of
e Med in

ound our
ly gather
ous chief
3ar to one
}his score,
me about
, and the

of oxcept-
d another
•other and
mountain
ccited, and
idians and
»rth end of
Dpposite to
it a fearful
must not
top, and I
awhile and
;oing down
ikeered. I
rned about
hadn't yet
ive to sleep
r I ever got
se to a low
cave, when
i'iends, who

THE SMOKY MOUNTAIN.

165

camp right under the cave, where it's always dry, and about
midnight the lawyer I mentioned suddenly jumped up as we
were all asleep, and began to yell in the most awful manner, as
if something dreadful had happened. He jumped about as if in
the greatest agony, and called on God to have n* rcy on him,
for he knew he would die. O, he did carry on at a most awful
rate, and we thought he must have been bitten by some snake
or was crazy, so we tore off his clothes to see what was the
matter; and what do you suppose we found? Nothing but a
harmless little lizard, that had run up the poor man's legs, all
the way up to his arm-pits, thinking, I suppose, that his clothes
was the bark of a dead tree. After the trouble was all over, the
way we laughed at the fellow was curious."

Our second day at the Alum Cave (and third one from home)
was a remarkably cheerless one ; for a regular snow-storm set in,
mingled with hail, and, before we could reach our hoi-ses and
descend the Smoky Mountain, some three or four inches of snow
had fallen. We spent that night under thei roof of our good
friend and worthy man, the guide, and it was with difficulty
that we could induce him to receive a quarter eagle for all his
trouble in piloting us and treating us to his best fare. On that
night we ate our supper at nine o'clock, and what rendered it
some^^'liat peculiar was the fact that his two eldest daughters,
and very pretty girls they were, waited upon us at table, holding
abo^^e our heads a couple of torches made of the fat pino. That
was the first time that I was over waited upon in so regal a
style, and more than once during the feast did I long to retire
in a corner of the smoky and dingy cabin to take a sketch of the
romantic scene. At sunrise on the following morning my com-
panion and myself remounted our horses, and in three hours
were eating our breakfast in Qualla Town.

j cave since

ppened to a

l; for there

We had a

■ a

166 ADVENTURES IX THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

t r

:,- -■!

CHAPTEIi XXIL

THE CHEROSEES OF CAROLINA.

:l 1

Qij/ LLA i OWN, North C^vrolina.

QuALLA Towx is a name air^nlied to a tract of seventy-two
thousand acres oi' laiid, in Hay a ood county, which is occupied
hy about eight hundred Cherokee Indians and one hundred
Oatawbas. Their district is mountainous from one extremity to
the other, and watei ed by a number of beautiful streams, which
abound in fish; the valleys and slopes are quite fertile, and the
lower mountains are well adapted to grazing, and at the , ame
time are heavily timbered and supplied with every variety of
game. This portion of a much larger multitude of aborigines, in
consideration of their rank and age, and of valuable services ren-
dered to the United States, were permitted by the general
government to remain upon their native soil, while the great
body of the Cherokee nation were driven into exile. They (the
exiles) amounted in all to more than sixteen thousand sduls,
eifflUeen hundred and fifty having died on their way to the
*^ promised land " beyond the Mississippi. And here it may with
propriety be added, that since the removal those in the "West have
gradually decreased in numbers, while the remaining portion
have steadily increased by births at the rate of four per cent,
per annum. In addition to the Indians above mentioned, it
ought to be stated that there is a remnant of two hundred still
remaining in the county of Cherokee ; of those, however, I know
but little, and therefore purpose to confine my remarks to those
of Qualla Town alone.

The Indians of this district, having formed themselves into a
regular company, with appropriate regulations, they elected an

THE CHEBOKEES OF CAROUNA.

167

XOLINA.

renty-two
occupied
hundred
iremity to
□as, which
, and the
the , ame
variety of
>rigines, in
pvices ren-
te general
the great
They (the
and s6ul3,
ay to the
i may with
West have
ig portion
r per cent,
itioned, it
ndred still
er, I know
£S to thoso

Ives into a
elected an

old friend of theu'S, named "William H. Thongs, (mentioned in
my last letter,) to become their business chief, so that the
connection now existing between the two parties is that of
father and children. What the result of this arrangement has
been will be fully understood when I come to speak of the
advance which the Indians have made in the march of civilization.
As they are organized at the present time, the Qualla Town
people are divided into seven clans, and to each clan is assigned
whit is called a town, over each of which presides a regular chief.
The Cherokee nation was originally divided into seven clans,
which were probably descended from certain noted families, and
the old party feeling is still preserved with j( alous care among
their descendants in this vicinity. The names of the clans are :
In-e-chees-quah, or Bird Clan; In-egil-lohee, or Pretty-faced
Clan; In-e-wo-tah, or Paint Clan; In-e-wah-he-yah, or Wolf
Clan; In-e-se-ho-nih, or Blue Clan; In-e-co-wih, or Deer Clan;
and In-e-eo-te-ca-wih, the meaning of which is not known. And
among the customs which prevail among these clans is one
which prevents their marrying among themselves, so that they
have to select their wives from a neighbouring fraternity.
Formerly such marriages were prohibited by penalty of death.

"With regard to the extent of their civilization and their
existing manner of life, the following may be looked upon as a
comprehensive summary: About fchiee-fourths of the entire
population can read in their own language, and, though the
majority of them understand English, very few can speak the
language. They practise, to a considerable extent, the science of
agriculture, and have acquired such a knowledge of the
mechanical arts as answers them for all ordinary purposes, for
they manufactui'e their own clothing, their own ploughs, and
other farming utensils, their own axes, and even their own guns.
Their women are no longer treated as slaves, but as equals ; the
men labour in the fields, and their wives are devoted entirely to
household employments. They keep the same domestic animals
that are kept by their white neighbours, and cultivate all the
common grains of the country. They are probably as temperate
as any other class of people on the ^e of the earth, honest iu

!|,.|

i
1

1G8

ADVENTURES IX THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

their business intercourse, moral in their thoughts, words, and
deeds, and distinguished for their faithfulness in performing the
duties of religion. They are chiefly Methodists and Baptists,
and have regularly ordained ministers, who preach to them on
every Sabbath, and they have also abandoned many of their
mere senseless superstitions. They have their own courtd, and
tiy their criminals by a regular juiy. Their judges and lawyers
are chosen from among themselves. They keep in order the
public roads leading through their settlement. By a law of the
State they have the right to vote, but seldom exercise that right,
as they do not like the idea of being identified with any of the
political parties. Excepting on festive days, they dress after the
manner of the white man, but far more picturesquely. They
live in small log houaes of their own construction, and have
every thing they need or desire in the way of food. They are,
in fact, the happiest commimity that I have yet met with in this
Southern country, and no candid man can visit them without
being convinced of the wickedness and foolishness of that policy
of the government which has always acted upon the opinion that
the red man could not be educated into a reasonable being.

By way of giving my readei's a correct idea of the present
condition of the Carolina Cherokees, T will describe a visit that
I paid to one of their churches on the Sabbath. I was anxious
to see how far they were advanced in the ways of Christian
instruction, and, though I noticed many little eccentricities, I
was, upon the whole, very much pleased with what I saw and
heard. I was accompanied by Mr. Thomas, and we reached the
mde but spacious log meeting-house about eleven o'clock. The
first hour was devoted to instructing the children from a
Cherokee Catechism, and the chiefs of the several clans were the
officiating teachers. At twelve o'clock a congregation of some
one hundred and fifty souls was collected, a large proportion of
whom were women, who were as neatly dressed as could be
desired, with tidy calico gowns, and fancy handkerchiefs tied
over their heads. The deportment of all present was as cir-
cumspect and solemn as I have ever witnessed in any New
England religious assembly. When a prayer was offered they

THE CHEROKEES OP CAROLINA.

ICO

rds, and
ling the
Baptists,
bhem on
of their
irtd, and
lawyers
rder the
w of the
lat right,
ly of tho
after the
•. They
nd have
?hey are,
h in this
without
at policy
lion that

mg.

present
isit that

anxious

Ihristian
icities, I
saw and
died the
;k. The

from a
were the

of some
lortion of
could be
liefs tied
,s as cir-
my New
red they

all fell upon their knees, and in singing all but the concluding
hjTnn they retained their seats. Their form of woi-ship was
according to the Methodist custom, but in their singing there
was a wild and plaintive sweetness which was very impressive.
The women and children as well as the men participated in this
portion of the ceremony, and some of the female voices reminded
me of the warbling of birds. They sung four hymns; three
prayers were offered by several indivifluals, and two sermons or
exhortations were delivered. The prayers were short and
pointed, and, as the shortest may be considered a fair specimen
of the others, T will ti-anscribe it for the edification of my readers :

" Almighty Lord, who art the father of the world, look down
from heaven on this congregation. Bless the Indians, and supply
them with all the food and clothing they may want ; bless, also,
the white men, and give them every thing they may need. Aid
ua all, O Lord, in all our good works. Take care of us through
life, and receive us in heaven when the world shall be burnt up.
We pray thee to take care of this young white man who has
come to this Indian meeting. Protect him in all his travels,
and go with him to his distant home, for we know by his kind
words that he is a friend of the poor ignorant and persecuted
Indian. Amen!"

The first preacher who addressed the meeting was a venerable
man. Big Clmrlmj, and he took for his text the entire first chapter
of John; but, before proceeding with his remarks, he turned to
Mr. Thomas, and wished to laiow if he should preach with the
" linguistet'" or interpreter, for the benefit of the young stranger.
I told him no ; but requested Mr. Thomas to take notes, and,
through his kindness, it is now my privilege to print the sub-
stance of that Cherokee sermon. It was as follows : —

" In the beginning of creation, the world was covered with
water. God spake the word and the dry land was made. He
next made the day and the night ; also, the sun, moon, and stars.
He then made all the beasts and birds and fishes in the world, and
was much pleased. He wanted some one to take care of aU these
creatures, and so he made man, and from his body a woman, to
help him and be his companion. Ho put them into a beautiful.

170

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

garden, which was filled with all Idnda of good things to eat, but
told them that there was one fiiiit they must not touch. That
fruit was an apple, I believe. The woman was not grateful to
God, and when a wicked serpent told her she might eat of the
beautiful fruit which she was so curious to taste, she did eat of it,
and gave some to the man, and he took some too. God talked
with the man about his wicked conduct, and told him that he
and his children should always have to work very hard for all
tlioy had to eat, so long as they lived in the world; and to the
woman, God said, she must always suffer very much when she
had children, and that the man should be her master. The man
and woman were then turned out of the beautiful garden, and
they were the father and mother of all the Indians in the world,
as well as the white men and the black men. They had a great
many children, and the world was very full of people. The
people were very wicked, and God warned a good man that he
intended to destroy the world by covering it all with water, and
that this good man must build a large boat like a house, and get
into it with his family, that they might not perish. The people
laughed at this good man for believing such a story; but he took
into his house two kinds of all the animals in the world, and the
waters came ; so the world was destroyed. After many days the
good man sent out a dove to find some land, but it could not
find any and came back. He sent it out again, and it never
returned, and soon the great house rested on the top of a high
moum lin. Another race of people then covered the earth; and
a great many good men lived upon the earth. One of the gi*eatest
of them it was who received from God the te'o commandments,
which direct all men how to be good and happy; but the world
was yet very wicked. Long after this, God sent into the world
his only Son, whose name was Jesus Christ. This wonderful
being it was who gave up his own life that all the wicked of the
world might be saved, and the justice of God be satisfied; and
so it is, that all the Indians, as well as the white men, who live
like Jesus Christ, can get to heaven when they die."

In delivering his seimon the preacher occupied about thirty
niinutes; and the above facts were cemented together by a great

H-\

THE CIIEROKEEB OF CAROLINA.

171

Q eat, but
h. That
ateful to
at of tlie

eat of it,
od talked
n that he
ird for all
id to the
when she
The man
rden, and
:he world,
id a great
pie. The
in that he
yater, and
se, and get
^he people
lit he took
d, and the
y days the

could not
i it never
) of a high
jarth; and
he greatest
nandinents,
) the world
> the world

wonderful
eked of the
isfied; and
a, who live

)out thirty
by a great

numb' of flowery expressions, which made it quite poeticaL
His manner was impressive, but not i)articularly eloquent.
Aiter he had taken his seat, and a hymn had been sung, a
young man stepped into the rude pul'^^ic, who has distinguishetl
himself by his eloquence. His name is Tekin-neb, or the Garden
of Eden. He spoke from the same text, and his remarks boro
cliiefly on the redemption by Christ. At the conclusion of his
address he gave a sketch of his own religious experience, and
concluded by a remarkoMy affecting appeal to his hearers. His
voice, empliasis, and manner, were those of a genuine orator, and
hia thoughts were poetical to an uncommon degree. In dwelHng
upon the marvellous love of the Saviour, and the great wicked-
ness of the world, he was affected to tears, and when he concluded
there was hardly a dry eye in the house.

Aft'jr the benediction had been pronounced, Mr. Thomas
delivered a short address to the meeting on temperance and a
few secular matters, when the Indians quietly dispersed to their
several homes. I retired to my own temporary home, deeply
impressed by what I had seen and heard, for my pride had been
humbled while listening to the rude savage, whose religious
knowledge was evidently superior to my own.

{

172 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

I. M-.:. .,1

CHAPTER XXIII.

(

;

;' i

■1'

!;■ 1

■i?^

CHEROKEE CUSTOMS.

QuALLA Town, Nonxii Cahomwa.

The plan adopted for the civilization of the Carolina Cherokeea
differs materially from any others adopted in the United States.
Their amusements are not interfered with, excepting when found
to have an immoral or unhappy tendency. A goodly number of
their more ridiculous games, however, they have abandoned of
their OAvn accord, but the manly game of ball-playing is still
practised after the ancient manner, with one or two restrictions.
In the fii'st place, they are not allowed to wager their property
on the games, as of old, unless it be some trifle in the way of a
woollen belt or cotton handkerchief, and they are prohibited from
choking each other, and breaking their heads and legs, when
excited, as was their habit in former times. Since my arrival
here the Indians have had one of their ball games, and as it was got
up especially for my edification, I made it a point of etiquette to be
present at the preparatory dance and the game, as well as at the
concluding ceremony, and these I will now endeavour to describe.

The preparatory, or training dance, took place on the night
preceding the game, and none participated in it who were not to
play on the following day. There were sixty young men present,
besides the spectators, and they met on a grassy plot formed by
u bend of a neighbouring stream called Soco Creek. The
dancers were stripped of every particle of clothing but their
waistbands; they made their own music, which was composed
merely of a rapid succession of whoops and shouts; and they
(ianced round a large blazing fire. The night in question was
very beautiful, and when this strange group was looked upon >>y

given
point
which
IK)le
winne]
Eve
end of
party,
the ce

CHEROKEE CUSTOMS.

173

the light of the full moon, with the wild mountain Hconciy on
every sitle, they presented a most romantic apiKJurunce. Thoy
kept up the dance above an hour, and, when it waa concluded, all the
men immediately ran towards a deep pool in the ice-cold stream,
and without waiting for the peitjpiratiou to cool, plunged into tlio
water, and, having finally emerged, started for their «everal
homes. This dance, I am informed, had its origin in an ancient
custom, which compelled all the candidates for a game of ball to
inure themselves to every hardship for ten days before the game
took place, and during all that time they were to eat but little
food, and were to refrain from gi'atifying any of their sensual
appetites.

On the morning of the game a large plain, lying between two
hills and directly in front of the Indian Court-house, (a large
circular lodge, built of logs,) was divested of every stone and
stick on its surface, and at ten o'clock the spectators began to
assemble. These were composed of the old men of the nation, a
large number of boys, and a still larger number of women and
children. They were all dressed in their holiday attire, so that
feathers, shawl-turbans, scarlet belts, and gaudy hunting-shirts,
were quite abundant; and, scattered as they were in groups of
from five to fifty on the hill sides and under the shadow of the
trees, they presented a most picturesque appearance. During all
this time the players kept out of sight, and it was understood
that the two parties were among the bushes, at the two ends of
the plain, preparing themselves for the game. Under the
direction of the presiding chief, or game-director, two poles v/ere
now erected about six hundred yards apart, on either side of a
given centre, and m this centre was placed the ball. From this
point it was to be given to the players, and the party
which first succeeded in throwing it twelve times outside the
|X)le belonging to their opponents were to bo considered the
winners.

Every thing being ready, a shrill whoop was given from one
end of the plain, and immediately answered by the opposing
party, when they all made their appearance, marching slowly to
1bhe centre, shouting and yelling as they passed along. Each

1,
i

^ 1

174

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

ifcil

party consisted of tMrty splendidly-formed young men, who
were unincumbered by any clothing, save their common waist-
baad, and every individual carried in his hand a pair of ball
sticks, made with a braided bag at one end. As the parties
approached the centre, the lady-loves of the players ran out
upon the plain and gave their favourite champions a variety
of articles, such as belts and handkerchiefs, which they were
willing to wager upon the valour of their future husbands.
This little movement struck me as particularly interesting,
and I w^is greatly pleased with the bashfulness and yet com-
plete confidence with which the Indian maidens manifesto. I
their preferences.

When the several parties were assembled at the centre of the
plain, each man selected liis particular antagonist by placing his
sticks at his rivaFs feet, after which the game-director delivered
a long speech, wherein he warned them to adhere to the exist-
ing regulations; and, throwing the ball high up in the air, made
his escape to one side of the plain, and the game commenced.
As it proceeded, the players became greatly excited, and I noticed
that the ball was never taken in hand until after it had been
picked up by the spoony stick, but the expertness with which
these movements were performed was indeed surprising. At
one time the whole crowd of players would rush together in the
most desperate and fearful manner, presenting, as they struggled
for the ball, the appearance r f a dozen gladiators, striving to
overcome a monster serpent ; and then again, as one man would
secure the ball and start for the boundary line of his opponent,
the rar % which ensued were very beautiful and exciting.
Wrestling conflicts also occurred quite frequently, and it often
seemed as if the players would break every bone in their bodies
as they threw each other in the air, or dragged each other over
the ground; and many of the leaps, which single individuals
performed, were really superb. The exercise was of a character
that would kill the majority of white men. The game lasted
for about two hours, and the moment it was finished the
entire body of players, while yet panting with excessive fa-
tigue, made a rush for the neighbouring river, and in a shoit

gent

en, who
>n waist-
• of ball
3 parties
ran out
, variety
ley were
lusbands.
beresting,
jret com-
lanifests- \

;re of the
lacing his
delivered
the exist-
air, made
oamenced.
I noticed
had been
ith which
dng. At
ber in the
struggled
briving to
ran would
opponent,
exciting,
d it often
leir bodies
other over
ndividuals
, character
sime lasted
ished the
cessive far
in a short

CHEROKEE CUSTOMS.

■?<rA,

17^

time appeared on the plain in their usual garb, and the old
chief who had held the stakes awarded the prizes to the win-
ning party. A short time afterwards the boys stripped them-
selves, and went through the same routine of playing as
already described, when the ball-playing was at an end, and the
people began to disperse with a view of getting ready for the
evening dance.

I employed the intervening time by going home with one of
the chiefs, and eating a comfortable supper in his log cabin.
The habitation of this chief was made of hewn logs, and occupied
a farm of twenty acres on the mountain side, about one-fourth of
which was in a state of cultivation, and plaited with corn and
potatoes. He had a tidy wife and several children, and his
stock consisted of a pony, a cow, and some ten or a dozen sheep.
At nine o'clock, I was again in the midst of a crowd of Indians,
assembled at the court-house of the town. The edifice, so called,
is built of hewn logs, very large and circular, without any floor
but that of solid earth, and without any seats but one short
bench intended for the great men of the nation. In the centre
of this lodge was a large fire, and the number of persons who.
figured in the several dances of the evening was perhaps two
hundred, all fantastically dressed, and including men, women,
and boys. Each dancer made his own music, and, with one
exception, the dances were of the common Indian sort. The
exception alluded to was particularly fantastic, and called " The
Pilgrim Dance." They came in with packs on their backs, with
their faces strangely painted, and with gourds hanging at their
sides, and the idea seemed to be to represent their hospitality
towards all strangers who visited them from distant lands. The
dancing continued until midnight, when the presiding chief
addressed the multitude on the subject of their duties as intelli-
gent beings, and told them to return to their several homes and
resume their labours in the field and in the shops. He concluded
by remarking that he hoped I was pleased with what I had
witnessed, and trasted that nothing had happened which would
make the wise men of my country in the East think less of the
poor Indian than they did at the present time; and he then

.176

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NOllTH AMEHICA.

added that^ according to an ancient custom, as I was a stranger
they liked, the several chiefs had given me a name, by which I
should hereafter be remembered among the Carolina Cherokees,
and that name was Ga-taw-1iQugh No-que-sihf or Tlie Wandering
Sta/r.

HICKORY NUT GAP.

177

stranger

wliich I

lerokees,

andering

^■JA-

CHAPTER XXIY.

HICKORY NUT GAP. '

AsiiviLLE, NouTii Carolina.

The distance from Qiialla Town to this place is sixty miles.
The first half of the route is exceedingly mountainous and almost
entirely uncultivated ; but the valley of Pigeon River, down which
you have to travel for a considerable distance, is very fertile and
well-cultivated, A pastoral charm seems to rest upon the
scenery, and in this particrJar forcibly reminded me of the upper
valley of the Mohawk. I occupied nearly two days in peiform-
ing this trip, and the only incident that I mot with which was
at all unicpie, was upon this wise. I had stopped at a farm
house to take my dinner. It so happened that my host was
about to erect a new barn, and some twenty of his neighbours
were assembled for the purpose of raising the framework to its
proper position. An abundance of wliisky had already been
imbibed by a few of > iv's rustic company, and among these was
one individual who had recently been grossly cheated in purchas-
ing a horse from a Tennessee horse-dealer. He had given a mule
and twenty doll-i'*s for the stranger's gelding; and, though the
animal was quite respectable in appearance, it had turned out to
be old, unsound, and almost without a redeeming quality. The
individual in question wrs noted for making a fool of himself
when intoxicated, and ou this occasion he was determined to
prove true to himself. At this time his horse speculation seemed
to weigh heavily upon his mind, and in his vehement remarks
he took particular pains to curse the entire State of Tennessee,
including President Polk. The poor man finally became so com-
pletely excited that he swore he would whip the first man he

178

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

met on the road who happened to be from Tennessee ; and m
the matter rested. In about thirty minutes thereafter, as for-
tune would have it, a man made his appearance on the road,
apparently from the West, and, in jeering their noisy companion,
the farmers remarked that " now he would have a chance to
revenge himself." The excitement of the horse-bitten speculator
was consequently gi-eatly increased, and when the stranger reached
the hill-top he was accosted as follows : —

" May I ask you, sir, if you come from Tennessee ?"

" I do. What will you have 1 " replied the stranger.

The Carolinian then related his trading story, which he con-
cluded by carefully reiterating the determination he had made.
The stranger laughed at the idea, and was about to resume his
journey, when the reins of his horse were seized, and he found
that it was indeed necessary for him to fight his way out of the
queer scrape. AH remonstrance on his part was in vain; but
at the very moment the fight was to commence, another horse-
man rode up, who was also interrogated as to his native State.
His presence ""ad -i tendency to suspend hostilities; but when
it was ascert?' rcJ that he was onli/ a Keutuckian, the Carolinian
insisted upon s^oing on with his business. The feelings of the
Kentuckian were now enHsted, and he declared his intention of
regulating the fight ; whereupon he made a large ring, and taking
out of his pocket a couple of pistols, he told the combatants " to
go ahead," and at the same time warned the bystanders that he
would shoot the first man that interfered. The conclusion of the
whole matter was, that the intoxicated man received a cruel
thrashing for his ridiculous conduct, and the two gentlemen from
the West quietly resumed their several jovirueys.

On my way to this place, I stopped for a few hours at Beaver's
Sulphur Springs, which are about four miles from the French
Broad River, on the road to Clarksville, Georgia. This is one of
the most popular watering-places in the South, not only on account
of the medicinal qualities of the water, and of the surrounding
scenery, wliich is remarkably interesting, but also for the addi-
tional reason that the style in which peopje are entertained is well
worthy of even sucli places as Saratoga, The several buildings

connecte
two hun
chiefly fj
of Eastei
such a di
of genuii
is superi<
With
and pleaj
bitants, a
been exti
warks for
a hill imi
9 western v
tlie sunse'
w]iich ga'^
from the
Pisgah ar
are from
thousand
composed
level plaii
fully float
tinkle of

Iroamincf

I little tow:
I carpet;
Iseemed to
My fii
[Blue Rid
luame I cr
Iso far as
lliickory t:
Igorge is v
take it th
^he gap is
by the R(

HICKORY NUT GAP.

179

; and so
T, as for-
bhe road,
mpanion,
ihance to
peculator
r readied

li he con-
lad made,
3b\:me his
he found
►ut of the
mn; but
lier horse-
;ive State.
but when
Carolinian
Qgs of the
itention of
md taking
xtants " to
;rs that he
sion of the
ed a cruel
emen from

at Leaver's
X\G French
is is one of
on account
iirrounding
r the addi-
ined is well
il buildings

connected with the establishment usually accommodate about
two hundred families during the summer months, and they are
chiefly from the cl ^los of Charleston and Savannah. The people
of Eastern North Care Una do not seem to know that they have
such a delightful retreat within their borders, which, to a man
of genuine taste, is as far ahead of Saratoga as a mountain stream
is superior to a canal.

With regard to Asliville, I can only say that it is a very busy
and pleasant village, filled with intelligent and hospitable inha-
bitants, and is the centre of a mountain land, where Nature has
been extremely liberal and tasteful in piling up her mighty bul-
warks for the admiration of man. Indeed, from the summit of
a hill immediately in the vicinity of the village, I had a south-
western view which stru<;k me as eminently su}>erb. It was near
tlie sunset hour, and the sky was flooded with a golden glow,
wliich gave a living beauty to at least a hundred mountain peaks,
from the centre of which loomed high towards the zenith Moi(,nt
Pisgah and the Cold Mountain, richly clotlied in purple, which
are from twenty to thirty miles distant, and not far from six
thousand feet in height. The middle distance, tlio\igh in reality
composed of wood-crowned hills, presented the a])pearance of a
level plain or valley, where columns of blue smoke were grace-
fully floating into the upper air, and whence came the occasional
tinkle of a bell, as the cattle wend*^d their way homeward, after
roaming among the unfenced hills. Directly at my feet lay the
little town of Asliville, like an oddly-shaped figure on a green
carpet ; and over the whole scene dwelt a spirit of repose, which
seemed to quiet even the common throbbings of the heai-t.

My first expedition on arriving here was to a gorge in the
Blue Ridge called tlie Hickory Nut Gap. How it came by that
name I cannot imagine, since the forests in this particular region,
so far as I could ascertain, are almost entirely destitute of the
hickory tree. It is true that for a distance of four miles the
gorge is watered by a brook called after the hickory nut, but I
take it that this name is a borrowed 6\m. The entire length of
he gap is about nine miles, and the last five miles are watered
y the Rocky Broad River. The upper part of this stream runs

180

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

between the Blue Eidge proper and a spur of the Blue Bulge,
and at the point where it forces a, channel through the spui' its
bed is exceedingly rocky, and on idther hand, until it reaches the
middle country of the State, it is protected by a series of moim-
tain bluffs. That jDortion of the gorge which might be called
the gateway is at the eastern extremity. From any point of
view this particular spot is remarkably imposinir, the gap boiug
not more than half a mile wide, though appearing to narrow
down to a few hundred yards. The highest bluff is on the soutli
side, and, though rising to the height of full twenty -fv^ himdred
feet, it is nearly perpendicular; and midway up its front stands
an isolated rock, looming against the sky, which is of a circular
form, and resembles the principal turret of a stupendous castle.
The entire mountain is composed of granite, and a hirgc propor-
tion of the bluff in question positively hangs over the abyss
beneath, and is as smooth as it could possibly be made by the
rains of uncounted centuries. Over one portion of this superb
cliff, falling far down into some undiscovered and apparently
unattainable pool, is a stream of water, which seems to be the
off;;pring of the clouds ; and in a neighbouring brook near tlie
base of this precipice are three waterfalls, at the foot of whicli,
formed out of the solid stone, are three holes, which are about
ten feet in diameter, and measure from forty to fifty feet in
depth. But, leaving thes^e remarkable features entirely out of
the question, the mountain scenery in this vicinity is as beautiful
and fantastic as any I have yet witnessed among tlie AUeghanies.
At a ftirm -house near the gap, where I spent a night, I had tlie
pleasure of meeting an English gentleman and tourist, and lio
informed me that, though he had crossed the Alps in a number
of i^lacfis, yet he had never seen any mountain scenery which lie
thougnt as beautiful as that of the Hickory Nut Gap. My best
view of the gorge was from the eastward, and just as the sun,
with a magnificent retinue of clouds, was sinking directly in the
hollow of the hills, and as I gazed upon the prospect, it seeme
to me, as was in reality the case, that T stood at the very
threshold of an almost boundless wilderness of mountains.
Before visiting this remaxkable passage through the mountains)

I endea-^
its origii
good foi
therewit
two nan
occupied
deavour
T'here
flimous ;
viously 1:
flir East,
bec^ime i
that the
situated
(a might;
by an im
the brave
cussinsi' t
iug then
man ste
the task,
returnot
and anot
tliis coun
liugne,;s
them tlu
could ac(
made hi
been pur
without
and thus
lie neede
his frien
for the f
and, hav
sick, the
took it

" /Mi

HICKORY NUT GAP.

181

! spui" its

aches the

of moiin-

be called

point of

ap boiug

noiTow

the soutli

? hmidred

nt stands

a circular

)us castle.

^c propor-

the ahvss

,de by the

liis supovb

ipparciitly

to be the

: near the

of which,

are about

ily feet in

•ely out of

,s beautiful

.Ueglumies,

, I had ilk'

ist, and lie

L a number

Y which lio

My best

as the sun,

jctly in the

;, it seemed

j the very

ains.

mountains)

I endeavoured to ascei-tain, from the Cherokees of Qualla Town,
its original Indian name, but without succeeding. It was my
good fortune, however, to obtain a romantic legend connected
therewith. I heard it from the lips of a chief who glories in the
two names of All Bones and Flying Squirrel, and, though he
occupied no less than two hours in telling the story, I will en-
deavour to give it to my readers in about five minutes.

T'here was a time when the Cherokees were without the
fimous Tso-lungh, or tobacco-weed, with which thev had pre-
viously been made acquainted by a wandering stran^.r from the
fiir East. Having smoked it in their large stone pipes, they
becf;,me impatient to obtain it in abundance. They ascertained
that the country where it grew in the greatest quantities was
situated on the big waters, and that the gateway to that country
(a mighty gorge among the mountains) was perpetually guarded
by an immense number of little people or spirits. A council of'
the bravest men in the nation was called, and while they were dis-
cussing the dangers of visiting the unknown country, and bring-
ing therefrom a large knapsack of the fragrant tobacco, a young'
man stepped boldly forward, and said that he would imdertake
the task. Tlie young warrior departed on his mission and never
returned. The Cherokee nation were now in great tribulation,
and another council was held to decide upon a new measure. At
this council a celebrated magician rose, and expressed his wil-
lingness to relieve his people of their difficulties, and informed
them that he would visit the tobacco country and see what he
could accomplisli. He turned himself into a mole, and, as such,
made his appearance eastward of the mountains; but, having
been pursued by the guardian spirits, he was compelled to return
without any spoil. He next turned himself into a humming-bird,
and thus succeeded, to a very limited extent, in obtaining what
lie needed. On returning to his country, he found a number of
liis friends at the point of death, on account of their intense desire
for the fragrant weed; whereupon he placed some of it in a pipe,
and, having blown the smoke into the nostrils of those who were
sick, they all revived and were quite happy. The mascician now

^■3

took it into his head that he would revenge the loss of the

182

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

young warrior, and at the same time become the sole possessor
of all the tobacco in the unknown land. He therefore turned
himself into a whirlwind, and in passing through the Hickory-
Nut Gorge he stripped the mountains of their vegetation, and
scattered huge rocks in every part of the narrow valley; where-
upon the little people were all frightened away, and he was the
only being in the country eastward of the mountains. In the
bed of a stream he found the bones of the young warrior, and
having brought them to life, and turned himself into a man again,
the twain retmTied to their own country, heavily laden with
tobacco; and ever since that time it has been very abundant
throughout the entire land.

THE FRENCH BROAD RIVER.

183

e posBessor
ore turned
e Hickory
fcation, and
3y; where-
ho was the
IS. In the
arrior, and
man again,
aden with

abundant

CHAPTER XXV.

POWN THE FRENCH BROAD RIVER.

AsHviLLE, North Carolina.

I HAVE just returned from an excursion down the French
Broad River to Pattons Warm Springs, and +he neighbouring
curiosities, and I now purpose to describe thv. ' wonders 1 have
seen." The original Indian name of the French Broad was
Fse-li-co, the meaning of which I have not been able to ascer-
tain. Its English name was derived from a famous hunter
named French. It is one of the principal tributaries of the
Tennessee, about one hundred miles long, from one to two
hundred yards wide, and taking its rise in the Blue Ridge near
the border of South Carolina, runs in a northwestern dii-ection.
Judging of the whole, by a section of fifty miles lying westward
of Ashville, it niu t be considered one of the most beautiful
rivers in this beautiful land. In running the distance above-
mentioned it has a fall of nearly ifteen hundred feet, and its
bed seems to be entirely composed of solid rock. In depth it
varies from five to fifteen feet, and, generally speaking, it is quite
clear, abounding in a great variety of plebeian fish. Its shores
are particularly wild and rocky, for the most part nearly per-
pendicular, varying from one to four hundred feet in height,
and, though usually covered with vegetation, they present fre-
quent clifia of granite, fi.'eestone, and blue limestone, which
actually droop over the rushing waters, and present a most
imposing appearance. With regard to its botanical curiosities,
it can safely be said that a more fruitful and interesting valley
can nowhere be found in the Union. Here we have not only
every variety of American forest trees, but bushes, plants,

; i

!:! :

' 'i

184

ADVENTURES IN T.lK WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

llowora, and vines, in the ^'reatest profa^ion, and oftlie most
vigorous growth; in;iny of the grape vines, which weigh down
tho miglity sycainure, sc( in to bo l(>ng enough, and strong
enough, to link together u huTidnod ships of war. When it is re-
uieiiibeu'ed, too, that tho air is constantly heavy with the fragrance
of flowers, and tremulous with tho p' rpetual roar of the strearu,
it may be readily imagined that a ride down the French Broad
is a unique pleasure. Back of the river on either side the
country is hilly and somewhat cultivated, but its immediate
valley contains nothing that smiicks of civilization but ^ turn-
pike road, and an occasional tavern. This road runs directly
along the water's edge nearly tho entire distance, and, on
account of tho quantity of traffic which passes over it, is kept in
admirable repair. It is the principal thoroughfare between
Tennessee and South Carolina, and an immense number of
cattle, hor OS, and hogs, are annually driven over it to the sea-
board markets. Over this road, also, a large amount of merchan-
dise is constantly transported for the merchants of the interior,
so that mammoth waggons, with tlieir eight and ten horses, and
their half-civilized teamsters, are as plenty as blackberries, and
afford a romantic variety to the stranger.

In riding down the French Broad, I overtook a gentleman on
horseback, who accompanied me about twenty miles. Immedi-
ately after the first salutation was passed, and he had ascertained
that I was from the eastward, he questioned me with regard to
the latest news from China. I was surj)rised at the question, and
after telling him I had none to communicate, I could not refrain
from asking him what was the secret of his interest in that
remote Empire. He replied that ho resided on the Frencli
Broad, and was a dealer in ginseng. I had heard of the article
before, and knew that it was found in abundance throughout
this mountain region. My friend described it as a beautiful
plant, with one stem and some twenty leaves at the top, and
growing to the height of eighteen inches. That portion of it,
lio^vever, which is prepared for market is the root. The Chinese
are the only people in the world who make any use of it whatever ;
but with them it has been an article of commerce from time

THE TRENCH BROAD RIVKR.

185

immemorial. It ia said to bo associated in some way or other
with an unexplained superstition. Fonnerly it was ohtained
exchisively from Tartary, and the Tartars wore in the habit of
sayiuL,' that they coidd iwvi;v find it, oxceptiii^L;; by shooting a
mag c arrow, which invariably fell where the plant was abun-
dant. In Pekin an ounce of ginseng is said to be worth seven
or eight ounces of silver; and the Chinese have written many
volumes upon its virtues. Among the names which they apply
to it are these — " The pure spirit of the earth," and " the plant
that gives immortality." It is not thought in tins ^.i.intry to
possess air ble mc<licinal quality, and only itfii th*!> eti'ect

of strengt, o sensual ap})ctit(\ It is us. I in tho same

manner tli ■ tobacco, and to the tongue it is an agreeable

bitter. It nis bevn an article of exiJOii; from this country for
half a century, and the most extensive American shi})pei*s at the
present time reside in Philadelphia. It is sold for about sixty
cents the pound, and my travelling companion told me that his
sales amounted to about forty thousand dollars per annum.
What an idea! that even the celestials are d< 'pendent upon the
United States for one of their cherished Ivixiiries, and that
luxury a common unnoticed plant of the wilderness! Ours is,
indeed, " a great country.'

I come now to speak of the Warm Springs, which are thirty-
six miles from Ashville, and within six of the Teimessee line.
Of the Springs themselves there are some half dozen, but the
largest is covered by a house, and divided into two ecpial apart-
ments, either one of which is sufficiently large to allow swimming.
The teraperature of the water is 105 degrees, and it is a singular
fact that rainy weather has a temlency to increase the heat,
but it never varies more than a couple of degrees. All the
springs are directly on the southern margin of the French
Broad ; the water is clear as crystal, and so heavy that even a
child may be thrown into it with little danger of being drowned.
As a beverage the water is quite palatable, and it is said that
some people can drink a number of quarts per day, and yet
experience only beneficial effects. The diseases which it is
thought to cure are palsy, rheumatism, and cutaneous affections;

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

li£12.8 |25

|50 ■^" IHI

■^ 1^ 12.2

L£ 12.0

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L25 yiiu 11.6

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PholDgra{iiic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WIST MAIN STRIilT

WIISTII,N.Y. MSM

(71*)t7a-4S03

186

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

but they are of no avail in curing pulinonic or dropsical affections.
The Wami Springs are annually visited by a large number of
fashionable and sickly people from all the Southern States, and
the proprietor has comfortable accommodations for two hundred
and fifty people. His principal building is of brick, and the
ball-room is 230 feet long. Music, dancing, flirting, wine-drink-
ing, riding, bathing, fishing, scenery-hunting, bowling, and read-
ing, are all practised here to an unlimited extent ; but, what is
more exciting than all these pleasures put together, is the rare
sport of deer-hunting ; and hereby " hangs a tale" to which I
must devote a separate paragraph.

My polite landlord had intimated his intention of affording
me a little sport, and immediately after a twelve o'clock dinner,
on a certain day, he stepped out upon his piazza and gave two
or three blasts with a small horn, tie result of which was, that,
in about fifteen minutes, a negro mounted on a handsome horse
made his appearance, accompanied by some twenty yelping
hounds. The horn was next handed to the negro, and he was
requested to go to a certain spot on the mountains about three
miles off, and put the dogs out after a deer. Two hours having
elapsed, the landlord, his son, and myself, each took a rifle, and
after riding some three miles up the French Broad, we stationed
ourselves at different points for the purpose of welcoming the
deer, which was expected to take to the water on the opposite
side. We had scarcely been ten minutes in our hiding-places
before the loud baying of the hounds was heard, as they were
coming down one of the mountain ravines, and in another instant
a very large buck (with his horns as yet only about a foot long)
plunged into the rapid stream. Instead of crossing the water,
however, he made his way directly down the river, now swim-
ming and now leaping, with the entire pack of hounds directly
in his foamy wake. It was evident that he considered himself
hard pressed, and, though now approaching a very rocky fall in
the stream, he gave himself to the current and went over, and
it seemed as if he must inevitably perish. But another call was
immediately made upon our sympathies, for we discovered the
entire pack of hounds passing into the same hell of waters. We

THE FRENCH BROAD RIVER.

187

affections,
uniber of
bates, and
) hundred
, and the
ine-drmk-
and read-
i, what is
J the rare
) which I

affordinjj
3k dinner,

gave two
was, that,
ome horse
y yelping
d he was
tout three
irs having
. rifle, and

stationed
)ming the
3 opposite
iug-places
they were
ler instant
foot long)
the water,
low swim-
is directly
;d himself
cky fall in

over, and
}r call was
•vered the
tera. We

remained in suspense, however, but a few moments, for we saw
the pursued and the pursuers all emerge from the foam entirely
unharmed, and still struggling in the race. Now the deer took
to an island, and then to another, and now again to the water,
and away did the whole pack speed down the river. By this
time the buck was evidently becoming tired, and certain of being
overtaken ; and having reached a shallow place in the river, he
turned upon the dogs and stood at bay. His movements during
tliis scene were indeed superb, and I could not but pity the
noble fellow's condition. His sufferings, however, were of short
duration, for, while thus standing in full front of his enemies,
the landlord's son sent a ball through his heart from the shore,
and with one frightful leap the monarch of the mountains was
floating in a crimson pool. The mounted negro now made his
appearance, as if by magic, and, having waded and swam his
horse to the dead deer, took the creature in tow, brought him to
the land, threw him upon his horse, and so ended the afternoon
deer-hunt.

About six miles from the Warm Springs, and directly on the
Tennessee line, are located a brotherhood of perpendicular cliffs,
which are known as the Painted Rocks. They are of limestone,
and rise from the margin of the French Broad to the height of
two, three, and four hundred feet. They are of a yellowish cast,
owing to the drippings of a mineral water, and in form are as
irregular and fantastic as can well be imagined. They extend
along the river nearly a mile, and at every step present new
phases of beauty and grandeur. Considered separately, it requires
but a trifling effort of the fancy to find among them towers,
ramparts and moats, steeples and domes, in great abundance;
but when taken as a whole, and viewed from the opposite bank
of the river, they present the appearance of a once magnificent
city in ruins. Not only are they exceedingly beautiful in them-
selves, but the surrounding scenery is highly attractive, for the
mountains seem to have huddled themselves together for the
purpose of looking down and admiring the winding ^nd rapid
stream. With regard to historical and legendary associations,
the Painted Rocks are singularly barren; in this particular,

188

ADV£>'TUltES IN THE WILDS OF NOllTH AMERICA.

liowever, they are like tlie entire valley of tlie French Broad,
where relics of a bygone people are few and far between. The
rugged aspect of this country would seem to imply that it was
never regularly inhabited by the Indians, but was their hunting
ground; and what would appear to strengthen this idea is the
fact that it is, even at the present day, particularly famous for
its game.

On the day that I returned from my trip down the French
Broad the weather was very showery, and the consequence was,
the rain was occasionally employed as an apology for stopping
and enjoying a quiet conversation with the people on the road.
At one of ^ lie places where I halted there was a contest going
on between two Whigs concerning the talents of the honourable
gentleman who represents the famous county of Buncombe in
Congress. The men vrere both strongly attached to the repre-
sentative, and the contest consisted in their efforts to excel each
other in complimenting their friend; and the climax of the
argument seemed to be that Mr. Clingmau was not "sorM
pumpkins,^'' but " pumpkins." The strangeness of this expression
attracted my attention, and when an opportunity offered I ques-
tioned the successful disputant as to the origin and meaning of
the phrase he had employed, and the substance of his reply was
as follows : —

An old lady was once occupying herself cleaning some tripe
on the hearth, before a large fire, over which hung a pot of boil-
ing pumpkins. Ad accid having happened to the pot, it
unfortunately fell to tho he :. 'i ai)d mimjled its contents with tlie
refuse of the lady's trlie. The calamity was more than she could
bear with fortitude, whereupon she made a desperate effort to
save a little of the pumpkin sauce. She did this ^by taking up
in her hands a portion of the doubtful mixture, and lifting it to
her nose, and finding it rather pure exclaimed — PunipTdns, and
threw it back into the pot. She took up another portion and
applying it to the previous test, exclaimed — Some pumpkins, and
threw that also into the pot. And so she continued her song of
pumphins and some pumpkhis until the entire mess of pumpkins
was secured and saved.

THE FRENCH BROAO RIVEEU

189

Broad,
1. The
t it was
liuntins:
sa is the
lous for

French
ice was,
(topping
he road.
st going
lourable
ombe in
le repre-
cel each
: of the
b "sonw
pression
^ I ques-
aning of
jply was

ne tripe
of boil-
I pot, it
with tlie
he could
iffort to
tking up
ing it to
ins, and
ion and
'.itis, and
' song of
Limpkins

At another of the houses where I tarried for an hour, it was
my fortune to arrive just in time to witness the conclusion of a
domestic quarrel between a young husband and his wife. On
subsequently inquiring into the history of this aflfectionate couple,
I obtained the following particulars : TJie young man was re-
ported to be a very weak-minded individual, and ever since his
marriage had been exceedingly jealous of his wife, who (as 1 had
seen) was very beautiful, but known to be perfectly true to her
husband. Jealousy, however, was the rage of the man, and he
was constantly making himself very ridiculous. His wife
remonstrated, but at the same time appreciated his folly, and
acted accordingly. On one occasion she was politely informed
by her husband that he was very unhappy, and intended to
hang himself " Very well," replied the wife, " I hope you will
have a good time." The husband was desperate, and having
obtained a rope, and carefully adjusted a certain stool, he slipped
the former over his head, and, when he knew that his wife was
looking on, he swung himself to a cross-beam of his cabin. In
playing his trick, however, he unfortunately kicked over the
stool (which he had placed in a convenient spot for future use
in regaining his feet,) and was well-nigh losing his life in reality,
but \N :*,s saved by the timely assistance of his wife. His first
remark on being cut down was, "Jane, won't you please go
after the doctor? I've twisted my neck dreadfully."

I also picked up, while travelling along the French Broad, the
following bit of history connected with one of the handsomest
plantations on that river. About forty years ago, a young girl
and her brother (who was a mere boy) found themselves in this
portion of North Carolina, strangers, orphans, friendless, and with
only the moneyed inheritance of one hundred and fifty dollarsi.
With this money, the girl bought a piece of land, and, her
little brother having died, she hired herself out as a housekeeper.
In process of time she married, gave her little property into the
keeping of her husband, who squandered it, died a drunkard,
and left her without a penny. By the kindness of a friend she
borrovved a couple of hundred dollars, and came to Ashville and
opened a boarding-house. In the course of five years she made

100

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NOllTII AI.IEIlICA.

ten thousand dollars, married a second time, and by the profli-
gacy and death of her second husband again lost every penny of
her property. Years elapsed, and the unceasing industry of the
poor widow was recompensed by the smiles of fortune, and she
is now the owner of a large and valuable plantation, which h
the fruit of her own individual toil, and a number of strong and
manly sons are the comforts of her old age.

BLACK MOUNTAIN.

191

profli-
mny of

of the
lid she
hich ia
ng and

' I

CHAPTER XXVI.

BLACK MOUNTAIN.

AsHViLLE, North Carolina.

Twenty-five miles from this place, in a northerly direction,
stands Black Mountain^ which is the gloomy looking patriarch
of the AUeghanies, and claimed to be the most elevated point of
land eastward of the Mississippi. It is nearly seven thousand
feet high, and, with its numerous pinnacles, covers an area of
territory which must measure in length a distance of at least
twenty miles. Unlike its fellows in this Southern land, it is
covered by a dense forest from base to summit, wliere may be
found nearly every variety of American trees, from the willow
and the elm, to the oak and the Canada fir; and it is the parent
of at least a hundred streams. Not a rood of its rocky and yet
fertile surface has ever been cultivated, and its chief inhabitants
are the panther, the bear, and the deer. Almost its only human
denizen is one Frederick Burnet, a " mighty hunter," who is now
upwards of forty years of age, and is said to have slain between
five hundred and six hundred bears upon this mountain alone.
To obtain an adequate idea of its height and grandeur, it should
be viewed from at least a dozen pointy of the compass, and with
regard to the circular and apparently boundless panorama which
it commands, it can be far better imagined than described. On
questioning one of the wild natives of the region as to the
character of this prospect, he replied : " Good God ! sir, it looks
down upon every seaport in the United States, and across the
whole of Mexico." On learning this truly remarkable circum-
stance, my curiosity was of course excited, and I questioned my
informant as to the facilities of looking off* from the peak.
" Directly on the liighest point," said he, " stands a single £r-tree,

192

ADVENTURES IN THE WIEDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

which you have to climb, and thus look down on all creation."
"And how do you reach the summit?" I continued. "O! it's
a very easy matter, stranger; you only have to walk about six
miles, and right straight up the roughest country you ever did
Bee.

With this intelligence I was fully satisfied, and thereupon
concluded that I should waste none of my s' '^ngth merely for
the privilege of " climbing a tree," even though it were the most
elevated in the land. One of my Ashville friends, however, to
whom I had brought letters of introduction, spoke to me of the
Black Mountain in the most enthusiastic terms, said that I ought
to visit it, and added that he had got up a party of one dozen
gentlemen, including himself, who were resolved upon visiting
the foot of the mountain in my company. They were described
as lovers of scenery, anglers, and hunters, and it was proposed
that we should go on horseback, though accompanied by a kind
of tender, consisting of a small waggon load of provisions, fisliing-
rods, and guns, which was to be under the especial charije of an
old negro named Sam Drymond. I was of course delighted
with this arrangement, and, as the expedition was accomplished
to the satisfaction of all concerned, I will give an account of its
principal incidents.

Our cavalcade started at the break of day, and, as Miss For-
tune would have it, in what we imagined a morning shower. It
so happened, how^ever, that it rained almost without ceasing until
we reached our place of destination, which was a log shaiitee not
far from the base of the Black Mountain, and about six miles
from its summit. Our course lay up the valley of the Swan-
nanoah, which, in spite of the rain, I could not but admire for
its varied beauties. This river rises on the Black Mountain, is
a charming tributary of the French Bi-oad, from five to twenty
yards in width, cold and clear, very rapid, ai)d throughout its
entire length is overshaded by a n)ost luxuriant growth of
graceful and sweet-scented trees and vines. The plantations
on this stream are highly-cultivated, the surrounding scenery
is mountainous, graceful, and picturesque, and among the
small but numerous waterfalls, which make the first half of

BIACK UOUNTAIN.

193

jreatioa."
"O! it's

ibout hIx
ever did

liereupon
lerely for
the moHt
wever, to
lie of the
Lt I ought
)no dozen
a visiting
described

proposed
by a kind
LS, fisliing-
irge of an

delighted
omplished
)unt of its

Miss For-
ower. It
^sing until
ia,iitee not
; six miles
the Swan-
adniire for
ountain, is
to twenty
ughout its

growth

)lantations
ig scenery
the
at half of

its course exceedingly romantic, may be enjoyed the finest of
trout fishing.

To describe the appearance o^ our party as we ascended the
Swannanoah, through the mud and rain, is impossible, without
employing a military phrase. We looked more like a party of
" used-up" cavaliers, returning from an unfortunate siege, than
one in pursuit of pleasure; and in spite of our efibrts to be
cheerful, a few of our faces were lengthened to an uncommon
degree. Some of our company were decided' characters, and
a variety of professions were represented. Our captain was a
banker, highly intelligent, and rode a superb horse; our second
captain was a Lambert-like gentleman, with scarlet Mexican
cloak: we had an editor with us, whose principal appendage
was a long pipe ; there was also a young physician, wrapped up
in a blue blanket; also a young graduate, enveloped in a Spanish
cloak, and riding a beautiful pony; also an artist, and then a
farmer or two; also a merchant; and, last of all, came the depo-
nent, with an immense plaid blanket wrapped round his body,
and a huge pair of boots hanging from his legs, whose romantic
appearance was somewhat enhanced by the fact that his horse
was the ugliest in the country. Long before reaching our place
of destination, a freshet came pouring down the bed of the
Swannanoah, and, as we had to ford it at least twenty times, we
met with a variety of mishaps, which were particularly amusing.
The most unique incident, however, was as follows : — The party
having crossed a certain ford, a motion was made that we should
wait and see that old Drymond r. t ie the passage in safety.
We did so, and spent about one hoar on the margin of the
stream, in a most impatient mood, for the old man travelled
very slowly, and the clouds were pouring down the rain most
abundantly. And what greatly added to our discomfort was
the fact, that our horses got into a cluster of nettles, which
made them almost unmanageable. In due time the negro made
his appearance, and plunged into the stream. Hardly had he
I'eached the middle, before his horse became unruly, and having
broken entirely loose from the waggon, disappeared down the
stream, leaving the vehicle in a most dangerous position, near

194

ADVENTUIIES IN THE WILDS OF NOIITH AMERICA.

the centre thereof, with a tromenJouH torrent nishing on either
side, and the poor negro in the attitude of despair. lie was
indeed almost frightened to death; but his wo-begone ai)pear-
anCe was so comical, that in sjdto of his real danger, and the
prayer he offered, the whole party burst into a roar of laughter.
One remark made by the negro was tliis : " O, Massa, dis is de
last o' poor old Drymond — his time's come." But it so happened
that our old friend was rescued from a watery grave : but I
am compelled to state that our provisions, wliich were now
transferred, with old Drymond, to the back of the horse, were
greatly damaged, and we resumed our journey with our spirits
at a much lower ebb than the stream wliich had caused the
mishap.

We arrived at a vacant cabin on the mountain, our place of
destination, about noon, when the weather became clear and our
drooping spirits were revived. The cabin stood on the margin
of the Swannanoah, and was completely hemmed in by immense
forest trees. Our first movement was to fasten and feed the
horses ; and having satisfied our own appetites with a cold lunch,
a portion of the company went fishing, while the remainder
secured the services of the hunter Burnet, and some half-dozen
of his hounds, and endeavoured to kill a deer. At the sunset
hour the anglers returned with a lot of two or three hundred
trout, and the hunters with a handsome doe. With this
abundant supply of forest delicacies, and a few " knick-knacks"
that we had brought with us, we managed to get up a supper of
the first water, but each man was his own cook, and our fingers
and hands were employed in the place of knives and plates.
While this interesting business was going on we despatched
Burnet after a fiddler, who occupied a cabin near his own, and
when the musical gentleman made liis appearance, we were
ready for the " evening's entertainment."

We devoted two hours to a series of fantastic dances, and
when we became tired of this portion of the frolic, we spent an
hour or so in singing songs, and wound up the evening by tell-
ing stories. Of the hundred and one that were related, only
two were at all connected with the Black Mountain; but as these

m either
He waa
appear-
and the
aughter.
(lis ia de
lappened
e : but I
ere now
>rse, were
ur spirits
used the

r place of
r and our
le margin
immense
feed the
!old lunch,
remainder
half-dozen
ihe sunset
3 hundred
With this
3k-knacks"
I supper of
our fingers
md plates,
despatched
3 own, and
I, we were

lances, and
ve spent an
ing by tell-
ilated, only
but as these

BLACK MOUNTAIN.

195

were Indian legends, and feathered from different sources by
tlie gentlemen present, I will preserve them in this letter for
the edification of those interested in such matters. On the
north side of Black Mountain there was once a cave, where all
the animals in the world were closely confined ; and before that
time they had never been known to roam over the mountains ar,
they do now. All these animals were in the keeping of an
old Cherokee chief This man, who had a mischievous son,
often came home with a fine bear or deer, but would never tell
his son or any other person where he found so much valuable
game. The son did not like this, and on one occasion, when
his father went out after food, he hid himself among the trees,
and watched his movements. He saw the old man go to the
cave already mentioned, and, as he pushed away a big stone, out
ran a fine buck, which he killed with an arrow, and then rolled
back the stone. "When the old man was gone home with hia
deer the boy went to the cave, and thought that he would try
his luck in killing game. He rolled away the stone, when out
jumped a wolf, which so frightened him that he forgot to replace
the stone, and before he knew what he was about all the
animals made their escape, and were fleeing down the moun-
tain in every possible direction. They made a dreadful noise
for a while, but finally came together in pairs, and so have
continued to multiply down to the present time. When the
father found out what the foolishness of his son had accom-
plished, he became very unhappy, and in less than a week he
disappeared, and was never heard of again. The boy also
became very unhappy, and spent many days in trying to find
his father, but it was all in vain. As a last resort, he tried an
old Indian experiment, which consisted in shooting arrows, to
find out in which direction the old man had gone. The boy
fired an arrow towards the north, but it returned and fell at
his feet, and he knew that his father had not travelled in that
direction. He also fired one towards the east and the south
and the west, but they all came back in the same manner. He
then thought that he would fire one directly above his head, and
it so happened that this arrow never returned, and so the boy

196

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NOUTII AMEUICA.

em'

knew that his father had gone to tho spirit-laud. The Great
Spirit was angiy with tho Oliorokoo nation, and, to punish it
for tho offouco of tho fooli.sli hoy, he tore away tlio cave from
the side of tlie Black Mountain, and loft only a largo cliff in
its place, which is now a conspicuous feature, and ho then
declared that the time wouhl come when another race of men
should possess the mountains where the Cherokees had floui-ished
for many generations.

Another legend was as follows : — Once, in tlio olden times,
when the animals of the earth had the power of H].)eech, a red
deer and a terrapin mot on the Black Mountain. The deer
ridiculed the terrapin, boasted of his own fleetnoss, and proposed
that the twain should run a race. The creeping animal assented
to the proposition. The race was to extend from the Black
Mountain to the summit of the third pinnacle extending to tho
eastward. The day was then fixed, and the animals separated.
During the intervening time the cunning ten'apin secured tho
Bervices of three of its fellows resembling itself in appearance,
and having given them particular directions, stationed them
upon the several peaks over which the mce was to take place.
The appointed day an*ived, and the deer as well as the firat-
mentioned terrapin, were faithfully on the ground. All things
being ready, the word was given, and away started the deer
at a break-neck speed. Just as he reachecf the summit of the
first hill he heard the shout of a terrapin, and as he supposed
it to be his antagonist, he was greatly perplexed, but continued
on his course. On reaching the top of the second hill, he heard
another shout of defiance, and was more astonished than ever, but
onward still did he continue. Just before reaching the summit
of the third hill, the deer heard what he supposed to be the
same shout, and he gave up the race in despair. On returning
to the starting-place, he found his antagonist in a calm and
collected mood, and, when he demanded an explanation, the
terrapin solved the mystery, and then begged the deer to
remember that mind could sometimes accomplish what was oflen
beyond the reach of the swiftest legs.

With regard to the manner in which our party spent the

1 =

BLACK MOUKTAIN.

107

Great
inish it
vo from
J cliff in
ho then
of men
oui'i.shed

night at the foot of Black Mountain, I can only say tliat we
slept upon the floor, and that our HadiUes were uur only pillows.
The morning of the next day we dovotetl to an unsuccessful
hunt after a bear ; and a portion of us having thrown the fly a
suflicient length of time to load old Drymond with trout, wo
all started on our return to Asliville, and reached the villugo
just as the sun was sinking behind the western mountains.

n times,
ich, a red
riie deer
proposed

assented
he Black
ng to the
separated,
jcured the
ipearance,
ned them
bake place.
\ the first-
All things
I the deer
mit of the
i supposed
, continued
I, he beard
,n ever, but
;he summit
. to be the
I returning
I calm and
nation, the
be deer to
sit was often

f spent the

;'. ■

<?ii>i'.}»

;{!i

198 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

(■':'

t;!' •■

''•'-!^

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE CATAWBA COUNTRY.

North Cove, North Caiiolina.
I NOW write from a log cabin situated on the Catawba river,
and in one of the most beautiful valleys. My ride from
Ashville to Burnsville, a distance of over forty miles, was un-
attended by a single interesting incident, and afforded only one
mountain prospect that caused me to rein in my horse. But
the prospect alluded to embraced the entire outline of Bald
Mountain, which, being one of the loftiest in this section of
country, and particularly barren, presented a magnificent appear-
ance. On the extreme summit of this mountain is a very large
and an intensely cold spring of water, and in its immediate
vicinity a small cave and the ruins of a log cabin, which are
associated with a singular being named David Greer, who once
made this upper world his home. He first appeared in this
country about fifty years ago; his native land, the story of his
birth, and his ear!} history, were alike unknown. Soon after
his arrival among the mountains, he fell desperately in love with
the daughter of a farmer, but his suit was rejected by the
maiden, and strenuously opposed by all her friends. Soon after
this disappointment the lover suddenly disappeared, and was
subsequently found residing on Bald Mountain, in the cave
already mentioned. Here he lived the life of a literary recluse,
and is said to have written a singular work upon religion, and
another which purported to be a treatise on human government.
In the latter production he proclaimed himself the sole proprietor
of BaVl Mountain, and made it known to the world that all who
should ever become his neighbours must submit to the laws he
had liimself enacted. The prominent actions of his life were

THE CATAWBA COUNTRY.

199

LINA.

)a river,
ie from
was un-
only one
se. But
of Bald
ection of
t appear-
ery large
amediate
diicli are
who once
d in this
ly of his
oon after
love with
I by the
oon after
and was
the cave
y recluse,
gion, and
'^ernment.
)roprietor
tt all who
e laws he
life were

" few and far between," but particularly infamous. The first
That brought him into notice was as follows : — A few years after
it was ascertained that he had taken possession ot this mountain,
the authorities of the county sent a messenger to Greer, and
demanded a poll-tax of seventy-five cents. The hermit said he
would a,ttend to it on the next court-day, and his word was
accepted. On the day in question Greer punctually made his
appearance, but, instead of paying over the money, he pelted the
^vindows of the court-house with stones, and drove the judges,
lawyers, and clients, all out of the village, and then, with rifle in
hand, returned to his mountain dwelling. For some months
after this event he amused himself by mutilating all the cattle
which he happened to discover on what he called his domain,
and it is said was in the habit of trying the power of his rifle
by shooting upon the plantations of liis neighbours. The
crowning event of David Greer's life, however, consisted in his
shooting to the ground in cold blood, and in the broad daylight,
a man named Higgins. The only excuse that he offered for
committing this murder was, that the deceased had been found
hunting for deer on that portion of land which he claimed as his
own. For this offence Greer was brought to trial, and acquitted
on the ground of insanity. When this decision was made known,
the criminal was greatly enraged, and, when released, started for
his cabin, muttering loud and deep curses against the injustice of
the laws. In process of time a number of attempts were made
to take his life, and it was a common occurrence with him to be
awakened at midnight by a ball passing through the door of his
cabin. After living upon the mountain for a period of twenty
years, he finally determined to abandon his solitary life, and took
up his abode on one of the settlements on the Tennessee side of
Bald Mountain. Here, for a year or two, he worked regularly
in an iron forge, but having had a dispute with a fellow-work-
man, swore that he would shoot him witliin five hours, and
started after his rifle. The offending party was named Tompkins,
and after consulting with his friends as to what course he ought
to pursue, in view of the uttered threat, he was advised to take
the law in his own hands. He took this advice, and, as David

200

ADVENTUBES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

Greer was discovered walking along the road with rifle in hand,
Tompkins shot him through the heart, and the burial-place of
the hermit is now unknown. Public opinion was on the side of
Tompkins, and he was never summoned to account for the
defensive murder he had committed.

In coming from Burnsville to this place, I enjoyed two
moimtain landscapes, which were supremely beautiful and impos-
ing. The first was a northern view of Black Mountain from the
margin of the South Toe river, and all its cliffs, defiles, ravines,
and peaks seemed as light, dreamlike, and airy as the clear blue
world in which they floated. The stupendous pile appeared to
have risen from the earth with all its glories in their prime, as if
to join the newly-risen sun in his passage across the heavens.
The middle distance of the landscape was composed of two wood-
crowned hills which stood before me like a pair of loving brothers,
and then came a luxuriant meadow, where a noble horse was
quietly cropping his food; while the immediate foreground of
the picture consisted of a marvellously beautiful stream, which
glided swiftly by, over a bed of golden and scarlet pebbles.
The only sounds that fell upon my ear, as I gazed upon this
scene, were the murmurings of a distant waterfall, and the hum
of insect wings.

The other prospect that I witnessed v/as from the summit of
the Blue Bidge, looking in the direction of the Catawba. It
was a wilderness of mountains, whose foundations could not be
fathomed by the eye, while in the distance, towering above all
the peaks, rose the singular and fantastic form of tJie Table Moun-
tain. Not a sign of the breathing human world could be seen
in any direction, and the only living creature which appeared to
my view was a solitary eagle, wheeling to and fro far up towards
the zenith of the sky.

From the top of the Blue Ridge I descended a winding ravine
four miles in length, where the road, even at mid-day, is in deep
shadow, and then I emerged into the North Cove. This charm-
ing valley is twelve miles long, from a half to a whole mile in
width, completely surrounded with mountains, highly-cultivated,
watered by the Catawba, and inhabited by intelligent and worthy

THE CATAWBA COUNTRY,

201

1 hand,

)lace of

side of

for the

ed two
impos-
rom the
ravines,
3ar blue
ared to
me, as if
heavens,
'o wood-
Drothers,
orse was
round of
n, which
pebbles,
pon this
the hum

iimmit of
wba. It
[d not be
sibove all
)fe Moun-
be seen
•peared to
[) towards

ag ravine
s in deep
is charm-
e mile in
iltivated,
d worthy

farmers. At a certain house where I tarried to dine on my way
up the valley, I was treated in a manner that would have put
to the 'lush people of far greater pretensions; and, what made
a dee ! apression on my mind, was the fact that I was waited upon
by two sisters, about ten years of age, who were remarkably
beautifiil and sprightly. One of them had flaxen hair and blue
eyes, and the other deep black hair and eyes. Familiar as I had
been for weeks past with the puny and ungainly inhabitants of
the mountain tops, these two human flowers filled my heart with
a delightful sensation. May the lives of those two darlings be
as peaceful and beautiful as the stream upon which they live !
The prominent pictorial feature of the North Cove is a moun-
tain called (lie Hawk's Bill, on account of its resemblance to the
beak of a mammoth bird, the length of the bill being about fifteen
hundred feet. It is visible from nearly every part of the valley,
and to my fancy is a more picturesque object than the Table
Mountain, which is too regular at the sides and top to satisfy
the eye. The table part of this mountain, however, is twenty-^
five hundred feet high, and therefore worthy of its fame.

The cabin where I am stopping at the present time is located
at the extreme upper end of the North Cove. It is the residence
of the best guide in the country, and the most convenient lodging
place for those who would visit the Hawk's Bill and Table
Mountains, already mentioned, as well as the Lindville Pinnacle,
the Catawba Cave, the Cake Mountain, the Lindville Falls, and
the Roan Mountain.

The Lindville Pinnacle is a mountain peak, surmounted by a
pile of rocks, upon which you may recline at your ease, and look
down upon a complete series of rare and gorgeous scenes. On
one side is a precipice which seems to descend to the very bowels
of the earth ; in another direction you have a full view of Short'
off Mountain, only about a mile off", which is a perpendicular
precipice several thousand feet high, and the abrupt termination
of a long range of mountains ; in another direction still, the eye
falls upon a brotherhood of mountain peaks which are particularly
ragged and fantastic in their formation — now shooting forward,
as if to look down into the valleys, and now looming to the sky.

:,|!.i

I''')

i,!!;

ill

202

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

as if to pierce it with their pointed summits ; and in another
direction you look across what seems to be a valley from eighty
to a hundred miles wide^ which is bounded by a range of moun-
tains that seem to sweep across the world with a triumphal
march.

The Catawba Cave, situated on the Catawba river, is entered
by a fissure near the base of a mountain, and is reputed to be one
mile in length. It has a great variety of chambers, which vary
in height from six to twenty feet ; its walls are chiefly composed
of a porous limestone, through which the water is continually
dripping; and along the entire length flows a cold and clear
stream, which varies from five to fifteen inches in-depth. This
cave is indeed a curious affair, though the trouble and fatigue
attending a thorough exploration far outweigh the satisfaction
which it affords. But there is one arm of the cave which has
never been explored, and an admirable opportunity is therefore
offered for the adventurous to make themselves famous by re-
vealing some of the hidden wonders of nature.

The Ginger Cake Mountain derives its very poetical name from
a singular pile of rocks occupying its extreme summit. The pile
is composed of two masses of rock of different materials and
form, which are so arranged as to stand on a remarkably small
base. The lower section is composed of a rough slate stone, and its
form is that of an inverted pyramid ; but the upper section of
the pile consists of an oblong slab of solid granite, which sur-
mounts the lower section in a horizontal position, presenting
the appearance of a work of art. The lower section is thirty feet
in altitude, while the upper one is thirty-two feet in length,
eighteen in breadth, and nearly two feet in thickness. The
appearance of this rocky wonder is exceedingly tottering; and
though we may be assured that it has stood upon that eminence
perhaps for a thousand years, yet it is impossible to tarry with-
in its shadow without a feeling of insecurity. The individual
who gave the Ginger Cake Mountain its outlandish name was a
hermit named Watson, who resided at the foot of the mountain
about fifty years ago, but who died in 1816. He lived in a small
cabin, and entirely alone. His history was a mystery to every

THE CATAWBA COXJNTRY.

203

another
n eighty
)f moun-
iumphal

} entered
to be one
lich vary
lomposed
ntimially
md clear
;h. This
d fatigue
,tisfaction
ivhich has
therefore
us by re-

lame from
The pile
erials and
ably small
ne, and its

section of
which sur-
presenting
thirty feet
in length,
tiess. The
ering; and
t eminence
barry with-

individual
lame was a
B mountain
d in a small
ry to every

one but himself, and, though remarkably eccentric, he was noted
for his amiability. He had given up the world, like his brother
hermit of the Bald Mountain, on account of a disappointment in
love ; and the utter contempt which he ever afterwards manifested
for the gentler sex, was one of his most singular traits of character.
Whenever a party of ladies paid him a visit, which was frequently
the case, he invariably treated them politely, but would never
speak to them; he even went so far in expressing his dislike as
to consume for firewood, after the ladies were gone, the topmast
rail of his yard-fence, over which they had been compelled to
pass, on their way into his cabin. That old Watson " fared
sumptuously every day" could not be denied, but whence came
the money that supported him no one could divine. He seldom
molested the wild animals of the mountain where he lived, and
his chief employments seemed to be raising peacocks, and makiu^;
garments for his own use, which were all elegantly trimmed with
the feathers of his favourite bird. The feathery suit in which he
kept himself constantly arrayed he designated as his culgee; the
meaning of which word could never be ascertained ; and long
after the deluded being had passed away from among the living,
he was spoken of as Culgee Watson, and is so remembered to this
day.

I come now to speak of the Lindville Falls, which are situated
on the Lindville river, a tributarj'" of the beautiful Catawba.
They are literally embosomed among mountains, and long before
seeing them you hear their musical roar. The scenery about
them is as wild as it was a hundred years ago — not even a path-
way has yet been made to guide the tourist into the stupendous
gorge where they reign supreme. At the point in question the
Lindville is fibout one hundred and fifty feet broad, and though
its waters have come down their parent mountains at a most
furious spee 1, they here make a more desperate plunge than thev
ever dared to attempt before, when they find themselves in a
deep pool, and suddenly hemmed in by a barrier of grey granite,
which crosses the entire bed of the river. In their desperation,
however, they finally work a passage through the solid rock, and
after filling another hollow with foam^ they make a desperate

I!'

204

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

leap of at least one hundred feet, and find a resting-place in ai^
immense pool, which one might easily imagine to be bottomless.
And then, as if attracted by the astonishing feats performed by
the waters, a number of lofty and exceedingly fantastic cliflTs
have gathered themselves together in the immediate neighbour-
hood, and are ever peering over each other's shoulders into the
depths below. But as the eye wanders from the surrounding
cliffs, it falls upon an isolated coluum several hundred feet high,
around which are clustered in the gi'catest profusion the most
beautiful vines and flowers. This column occupies a conspicu-
ous position a short distance below the falls, and it were an easy
matter to imagine it a monument erected by Nature to celebrate
her own creative power.

With a liberal hand, indeed, has she planted her forest trees
in every imaginable place ; but, with a view of even siirpassing
hei'self, she has filled the gorge with a variety of caverns, which
astonish the beholder, and almost cause him to dread an attack
from a brotherhood of spirits. ' But how futile is my effort to
give an adequate idea of the Lindville Falls and their surrounding
attractions! When I attempted to sketch them I threw away
my pencil in despair; and I now feel that I should be doing my
pen a kindness if I were to consume what I have written. I
will give this paragraph to the world, however, trusting that
those who may hereafter visit the Lindville Falls, will award to
me a little credit for my luill if not for my deed.

To be in keeping with my wayward wanderings in this Alpine
wiidemess, it now becomes my duty to speak of the Jioa7i Moun-
tain and the Grand Father. By actual measurement the former
is only seventy feet lower than the Black Mountain, and conse-
quently measures well-nigh seven thousand feet. It derives its
name from the circumstance that it is often covered with snow,
and at such times is of a roan colour. It lies in the States of
North Carolina and Tennessee, and has three prominent peaks,
which are all entirely destitute of trees. The highest of them
has a clearing containing several thousand acres, and the cattle
and horses of the surrounding farmers resort to it in immense
numbers, for the purpose of feeding upon the fine and luxuriant

THE CATAWBA COUNTEY.

205

ie in a^
iomlesH.

rued by
iic cliffs
ighbour-
into the
•oundiug
;et high,
;he most
sonspicu-

an easy
celebrate

cest trees
urpassing
ns, which
an attack
effort to
rrounding
irew away
doing my
ritten. I
sting that
I award to

his Alpine
)a7i Moun-
the former
and conse-
derives its
kvith snow,
e States of
ent peaks,
ist of them
the cattle
1 immense
. luxuriant

grass which grows there in great abundance. The ascent to the
top of this peak is gradual from all directions except one ; but on
the north it is quite perpendicular, and to one standing near the
brow of the mighty cliff the scene is exceedingly imposing and
fearful. That it commands an uninterrupted view of what
appears to be the entire world, may be readily imagined. When
I was there I observed no less than three thunder-storms per-
forming their uproarious feats in three several valleys, while the
remaining portions of the lower world were enjoying a deep blue
atmosphere. In visiting Roan Mountain you have to travel on
horseback, and, by starting at the break-of-day, you may spend
two hours on the highest peak, and be home again on the same
evening about the sunset hour.

In accounting for the baldness wliicli characterises the Roan
Mountain, the Catawba Indians relate the following tradition;
There was once a time when all the nations of the earth were
at war with the Catawbas, and had proclaimed their determina-
tion to conquer and possess their country. On hearin ; this
intelligence the Catawbas became greatly enraged, and sent a
cliallenge to all their enemies, and dared them to fight on the
summit of the Roan. The challenge was accepted, and no less
than three famous battles were fought — the streams of the entire
land were red with blood, a number of tribes became extinct,
and the Catawbas carried the day. Whereupon it was that the
Great Spirit caused the forests. +o wither from the three peaks of
the Roan Mountain, where the battles were fought; and where-
fore it is that the flowers which grow upon this mountain are
chiefly of a crimson hue, for they are nourished by the blood of
the slain.

One of the finest views from the Roan Mountain is that of
the Grand Father, which is said to be altogether the wildest end
most fantastic mountain in the whole Alleghany range. It is
reputed to be 5600 feet high, and particuL rly famous for its
black bears and other large game. Its principal human inhabi-
tants, par excellence, for the last twenty years, have been a man
named Jim Ht'ddle, and his loving spouse, whose cabin was near
its summit. A more successful hunter than Jim never scaled a

'II

20G

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

precipice; and the stories related of him would fill a volume.
One of the funniest that I now remember^ is briefly as follows : — .

He was out upon a hunting expedition, and having come to
one of his bear traps, (made of logs, weighing about a thousand
pounds, and set with a kind of figure four,) the bait of which
happened to be misplaced, he thoughtlessly laid down his gun,
and went under the trap to arrange the bait. In doing this, he
handled the bait-hook a little too roughly, and was consequently
caught in the place of a bear. He chanced to have a small
hatchet in his belt, with which, under every disadvantage, he
succeeded in cutting his way out. He was one day and one
night in doing this, however, and his narrow escape caused him
to abandon the habit of swearing, and become a religious man.

To the comprehension of Jim Riddle, the Grand Father was
the highest mountain in the world. He used to say that he had
read of the Andes, but did not believe that they were half as
high as the mountain on which he lived. His reason for this
opinion was, that when a man stood on the top of the Grand
Father, it was perfectly obvious that " all the otiier mountains in
(he world lay rolling from it, even to tlie *%."

Jim Riddle is said to have been a remarkably certain marksman;
and one of his favourite pastimes, in the winter, was to shoot at
snow-balls. On these occasions, his loving wife, Betsy, was always
by his side, to laugh at him when he missed his mark, and to
applaud when successful. And it is reported of them, that they
were sometimes in the habit of spending entire days in this
elevated recreation. But enough; Jim Riddle is now an altered
man. His cabin has long since been abandoned, and he has
become a travelling preacher, and is universally respected for his
amiability, and matter-of-fact intelligence.

¥■

most ij

nearly!

plants [

tains,

varietj

interea

earth. I

must

desei

and

largesj

u \

THE MOUNTAINS AND THEIR PEOPLE.

207

volume,
lows : —
come to
housand
f which
his gun,

this, he
equently

a small
itage, he
and one
used him
IS man.
ither was
it he had
:e half as
n for this
le Grand
mtains in

larksman;
3 shoot at
ras always
rk, and to
that they
jTS in this
an altered
id he has
bed tor his

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE MOUNTAINS AND TIIEIU PEOPLE.

Elizabetiiton, Tennessee.
The prominent circumstance attending my journey from the
North Cove to this place was, that it brought me out of the
great mountain wilderness of Georgia and North Carolina into a
well-cultivated and more level country. For two months past
have I spent my days on horseback, and the majority of my
m'ghts in the rudest of cabins ; and as I am now to continue my
journey in a stage-coach, it is meet that I should indite a general
letter, descriptive of the region through which I have passed.
In coming from Dahlonega to this place, I have travelled in a
zigzag course upwards of four hundred miles, but the intervening
distance, in a direct line, would not measure more than two hun-
dred. The entire country is mountainous, and for the most
part remains in its original state of nature. To the botanist and
the geologist this section of the Union is ^vnquestionably the
most interesting eastward of the Mississippi ; for we have here
nearly every variety of forest trees known in the land, as well as
plants and flowers in the greatest abundance, while the moun-
tains, which are of a primitive formation, abound in every known
variety of minerals. That the scenery of this region is highly
interesting, I hope my readers have already been convinced.
More beautiful streams can nowhere be found on the face of the
earth. But, when we come to speak of lake scenery, the South
must yield the palm to the North. Not a single sheet of water,
deserving the name of lake, have I yet seen in this Southern land,
and yet every mountain seems to be well supplied with the
, largest and the coldest of springs. I know not whether this fact has

208

ADVr* TITRES IN THE WILDS OP NOKTH AMERICA.

been exnlaincd by our scientific men, but to me it is indeed a
striking peculiarity. The valleys, too, of this region, are .'emark-
ably narrow, and the majority of them might with more propriety
be called immense ravines. The skies, however, w hich canopy this
Alpine land, appeared to me to be particularly blue, and as to
the clouds which gather aroimd the mountains at the sunset
liour, they are gorgeous beyond compare.

With regard, to climate, I know of no section of country that
can be compared with the highlands of Georgia and North Caro-
lina. It is but seldom that a foot of snow covers the earth even
in the severest winters; and, though the days of midsummer are
very warm, they are seldom sultry, and the nights are invariably
Bufficieotly cool to make one or two blankets comfortable. Fevers
and other diseases, peculiar to the sea-side of the Alleghaniea, a.i^
hardly known among their inhabitants, and heretofore the ma-
,iority of people have died of old age. I would not intimate that
they are afflicted with an epidemic at the present time, but I do
say that there are many households in this region, which have
been rendered very desolate by the Mexican war. When our
kingly president commanded the American people to leave the
plough in the furrow and invade a neighbouring republic, the
mountaineers of Georgia and the Carol inas poured down into the
valley almost without bidding their mothers, and wives, and sis-
ters, a final adieu ; and the bones of at least one half of thef^e
brave men are now mouldering away on the desert sands of the
far South.

Generally speaking, the soil of this country is fertile, yielding
the best of corn, potatoes, and rye, but only an average quality
of wheat, on account of the late frosts. In some of the more
extensive valleys, the apple and the peach arrive at perfection;
and while the former are manufactured into cider, out of the
latter the mountaineers make a very palatable brandy. The
principal revenue of the people, however, is derived from the
business of raising cattle, which is practised to a considerable
extent. The mountain ranges afford an abundance of the sweetest
grazing food, and all that the farmer has to do in the autumn is
to hunt up his stock, which have noWil)ecQme^xcessively fat, and

THE MOUNTAINS AND THEIR PEOPLE.

SOD

luleed a
•emark-
ropriety
opy this
,nd as to
sunset

itry that
th Caro-
rth even
nmer are
ivaiiably
I. Fevers
aniea, ai«
e the ma-
mate that
, but I do
hich have
Vhen our
leave the
public, the
n into the
js, and sis-
If of thefie
nds of the

e, yielding
ige quality
f the more
perfection ;
out of the
,ndy. The
I from the
onsiderable
he sweetest
! autumn is
ely fat, and

didve them to the Charleston or Baltimore market. The only
drawback to this business consists in the fact, that the cattle in
certain sections of the country are subject to what is called the
milk sickness. This disease is supposed to be caused by a
poisonous dew which gathers on the grass, and is said not only
to have destroyed a great many cattle in other years, but fi'e-
quently caused the death of entire families who may have par-
taken of the unwholesome milk. It is a dreaded disease,
and principally fatal in the autumn. From the foregoing re-
marks it will be seen that a mountain farmer may be an agri-
culturist, and yet have an abundance of time to follow any
other employment that he has a passion f6r; and the result of
this fact is, that he is generally a faithful disciple of the im-
mortal Nimrod.

All the cabins that I have visited have been ornamented by at
least one gun, and more than one half of the inhabitants have
usually been hounds. That the mountaineers are poor, is a mat-
ter of course, and the majority of their cabins are cheerless places
indeed, to harbour the human frame for life ; but the people are
distinguished for their hospitality, and always place before the
stranger the choicest of their store. Bacon, game, and milk, are
their stajile articles of food, and honey is their principal luxury.
In religion, generally speaking, they are Methodists and Baptists,
and are distinguished for their sobriety. They have but few
opportunities of hearing good preaching, but I have never entered
moi'e than three or four cabins where I did not see a copy of the
Bible. The limited knowledge they possess has come to them
directly from Heaven as it were, and, from the necessity of the
case, their children are growing up in the most deplorable igno-
rance. Whenever one of these poor families happened to learn
from my conversation that I was a resident of New York, the
interest with which they gazed upon me, and listened to every
word, was both agreeable and painful. It made me happy to
communicate what little I happened to know, but pained me to
think upon their isolated and uncultivated manner of life. Give
me the wilderness for a day, or month, but for life I must be amid
the haunts of refinement and civilisation. As to the slave popu^

210

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

lation of tlio mountain districts, it is ho limited that I can hardly
express an opinion with n^j^ard to tlioir conditi(m. Not moro
than ono white man in tun (perhaps I oujjjlit to say twenty) Is
Hudiciently wealtliy to support a slave, and those who do possp'N^
them ai*o in the habit of treathij^ them as inttdligent beinj^s, and
in the most kindly manner. As I have found it to he the case
on the seabord, the alaves residinjLj among the mountains are
the happiest au<l most iudei)ondent poi'tiou of the pojmlatioii ;
and I have had many a ono pilot mo over the mouutaiiiH
who would not have exchanged places even with his master.
They have a comfortable liouso, and no debts to pay: every
tiling they need in the way of clothing and wholesome food
la ever at their command, and they have free access to the
churches and the Sunday schools of the land. What more do
the poor of any country possesa that ciin add to their temporal
happiness 1

Another, and of course the most limited portion of the popu-
lation occui)ying this mountain countiy, is what might be called
the aristocracy or gentry. Generally speaking, they are descended
from the best of families, and moderately wealthy. They are
fond of good living, and their chief business is to make themselves
as comfortable as possible. They esteem solid enjoyment more
than display, and are far more intelligent (so far as books and the
world are concerned) than the same class of people pt the North.
The majority of Southern gentlemen, I believe, would be glad to
see the institution of slavery abolished, if it could be brought
about without reducing them to beggary. But they hate a poli-
tical abolitionist as they do the very — Father of Lies; and for
this want of affection I do not see that they deserve to be blamed.
The height of a Southern man's ambition is to bo a gentleman in I
every particular — in word, thought, and deed ; and to be a per-
fect gentleman, in my opinion, is to be a Christian. And with
regard to the much talked-of hospitality of the wealthier classes
in the South, I can only say that my own experience ought to
make me veiy eloquent in their praise. Not only does the genu-
ine feeling exist here; but a Southern gentleman gives suchl
expression to his feeling by his home-like treatment of you, tl itl

«.>

THE MOUNTAINS AND TUEIB PEOPLE.

211

hardly
t moro
uuty) is

pOSBf <s
j^s, uiid

tllO CUHO

iiiusi aro
ulation ;
ouutfuiia
iiiaater.
: every
jiiio food
fis to the
more do
temporal

the popu-
t be called

descended
They are
themselves
•ment more
oks and the
, the North,
d be glad to

be brought
' hate a poli-
ties; and for
,0 be blamed. |
gentleman in
. to be a per-
. And witlil
ilthier classes
3nce ought to|
loes the genu-
XI gives suchl
,tofyou, tl ill

to bo truly hospitable you might imagine had been the principal
Btudy of his life.

But the music of tlio "mellow horn" iH ringing in my ear,
and in an hour from tiii;^ time I shall have tlu'own myself into
a stage-coach, and bo on my way up the long and broad valley
of Virginia.

212

ADVENTUIIES Ui THE WILDS OF NORTH AJlEMOA.

t «

CHAPTER XXIX.

THE NAMELESS VALLEY.

The Nameless Vai.let, Virginia.

Since my last letter was written, my course of travel has led
me towards the fountain-head of the Holston river, whose broad
and highly-cultivated valley is bounded on the north-west by the
Clinch Mountains, and on the south-east by the Iron Mountains.
The agricultural and mineral advantages of this valley are mani-
fold, and the towns and farms scattered along the stage-road all
present a thriving and agreeable appearance. Along the bed of
the Holston, agates and cornelians are found in considerable
abundance ; and though the scenery of its valley is merely beau-
tiful, I know of no district in the world where caves and caverns
are found in such great numbers. A zigzag tour along this
valley alone will take the traveller to at least one dozen caves,
many of which are said to be remarkably interesting. From my
own observation, however, I know nothing about them; and so
long as I retain my passion for the revealed productions of nature,
I will leave the hidden ones to take care of themselves.

On reaching the pleasant little village of Abingdon, in Wash-
ington county, a friend informed me that I must not fail to visit
the salt-works of Smythe county. I did so, and the following
is my account of Saltville, which is the proper name for the place
in question : Its site was originally a salt-lick, to which immense
herds of elk, buffalo, and deer, were in the habit of resorting;
subsequently, the Indians applied the privilege to themselves,
and then an occasional hunter came here for his supplies ; but
the regular business of transforming the water into salt did not
commence until the year 1790. Saltville is located at the head
of a valley rear the base of the Clinch Mountains, and about

THE NAMELESS VALLEY.

213

RGWIA.

el has led
ose broad
3st by the
[ountains.
are mani-
o-e-road all
the bed of
)nsiderable
3rely beau-
md caverns
along this
Lozen caves,
From my
em ; and so
IS of nature,

■es.

n, in Wash-
) fail to visit
tie following
for the place
lich immense
of resorting;
> themselves,
upplies; but
salt did not
i at the head
IS, and about

one mile from the Holston river. All the population of the
place, numbering perhaps three hundred inhabitants, are engaged
in the manufacture of salt. The water here is said to be the
strongest and purest in the world. When tested by a salometer,
graded for saturation at twenty-five degrees, it ranges from
twenty to twenty-two degrees, and twenty gallons of water will
yield one bushel of salt, which weighs fifty pounds (and not fifty-
six as in the North,) and is sold at the rate of twenty cents per
bushel, or one dollar and twenty cents per barrel. The water is
brought from a depth of two hundred and twenty feet by means
of three artesian wells, which keep five furnaces or salt-blocks,
of eighty-four kettles each, in constant employment, and produce
about two thousand bushels per day. The water is raised by
means of horse-power, and twenty-five teams are constantly em-
ployed in supplying the furnaces with wood. The salt manufac-
tured here is acknowledged to be superior in quality to that made
on the Kanawha, in this state, or at Syracuse, in New- York,
but the Northern establishments are by far the most extensive.
The section of country supplied from this quarter is chiefly com-
posed of Tennessee and Alabama; generally speaking, there ia
but one shipment made during the year, which is in the spring,
and by means of flat boats built expressly for the purpose. A
dozen or two of these boats are always ready for business, and
when the Holston is swollen by a freshet, they are loaded and
manned at the earliest possible moment, and away the singing
boatmen go down the wild, winding, and narrow, but picturesque
stream, to their desired havens. The section of country supplied
by the Kanawha is the north-west and the extreme south, while
Syracuse, Liverpool, and Turk's Island, supply the Atlantic sea-
bord. The Saltville reservoir of water seems to be inexhaustible,
and it is supposed would give active employment to at least a
dozen new fiirnaces. As already stated, the yielding wells are
somewhat over two hundred feet deep; but within a stone's
throw of these, other wells have been sunk to the depth of four,
five, and six hundred feet, without obtaining a particle of the
valuable liquid. The business of Saltville is earned on by private
enterprise altogether, and the principal proprietor and director

214

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

is a gentleman who comes from that noble stock which has given
to this country such men as Patrick Henry and William H.
Preston. I am at present the guest of this gentleman, and there-
fore refrain from giving his' name to the public; but as his
plantation is decidedly the most beautiful that I have seen in
the whole Southern country, I must be permitted to give a pai*-
ticular description of it for the edification of my readers.

This heretofore nameless nook of the great world I have been
permitted to designate as TJie Nameless Valley, and if I succeed
in merely enumerating its charming features and associations, I
feel confident that my letter will be read with pleasure. It is
the centre of a domain comprising eight thousand acres of land,
which covers a multitude of hills that are all thrown in shadow
at the sunset hour by the Clinch Mountains. The valley in
question is one mile long and three-quarters of a mile wide, and
comprises exactly three hundred and thirty-three acres of green
meadow land, unbroken by a single fence, but ornamented by
about a dozen isolated trees, composed of at least half a dozen
varieties, and the valley is watered by a tiny stream of the
clearest water. It is completely surrounded with cone-like hills,
"which are nearly all highly-cidtivated half-way up their sides,
but crowned with a diadem of the most luxuriant forest trees.
A little behind the hills, skirting the western side of the valley,
are the picturesquely broken Clinch Mountains, whose out-
lines, and clifi*s, and fissures, and ravines, may be distinctly seen
from the opposite side of the valley, where the spacious and
tasteftiUy-porticoed mansion of the proprietor is located. Clus-
tering immediately around this dwelling, but not so as to inter-
rupt the view, are a number of very large willows, poplars, and
elms, while the enclosed slope upon which it stands is covered
with luxuriant grass, here and there enlivened by a stack of
roses and other flowers. The numerous outhouses of the plan-
tation are a little back of the main building, and consist of
neatly-painted cabins, occupied by the negroes belonging to the
estate, and numbering about one hundred souls; then come the
stables, where no less than seventy-five horses are daily supplied
with food ; then we have a pasture on the hill-side, where thirty

given
[sun. H.

there-

as his
I seen in

a pap-

,ve been
succeed
.tiony, I
It is
of land,
shadow
valley in
vide, and
of green
lented by
: a dozen
,m of the
-like hills,
leir sides,
rest trees.
;he valley,
'•hose out-
nctly seen
cious and
ed. Clus-
,B to inter-
)plars, and
is covered
a stack of
' the plan-
consist of
ni\g to the
1 come the
ly supplied
bere thirty

THE NAMELESS VALLEY.

215

or forty cows nightly congregate to be milked, and give suck to
their calves; and then we have a mammoth s})ring, whose
waters issue out of the mountain, making only about a dozen
leaps, throwing themselves upon the huge wheel of an old mill,
causing it to sing a kind of circling song from earliest dawn to
the twilight hour. In looking to the westward from the spacious
porticoes of the mansion, the eye falls upon only two objects
which are at all calculated to destroy the natural solitude of the
place, viz., a road which passes directly by the house at the foot
of the lawn, and one small white cottage situated at the base of
a hill on the opposite side of the valley. Instead of detracting
from the scene, liowever, these objects actually make it more
interesting, when the facts are remembered that in that cottage
did the proprietor of this great estate first see the light, and
that by its side are deposited the remains of five generations of
his ancestors; and as to the road, the people who travel it all
appear and move along just exactly as a poet would desire.

But to give my readers a more graphic idea of this truly
delightful valley, I will enumerate the living pictures which
attracted my attention from the book I was attempting to read
one afternoon. I was in a commanding corner of the porch,
and had closed the volume just as the sun was sinking behind
the mountain. The sky was of a soft silvery hue, and almost
cloudless, and the entire landscape was bathed in an exquisitely
soft and delightful atmosphere. iN^ot a breeze was stirring in
the valley, and the cool shadows of the trees were twice as long
as the trees themselves. The first noise that broke the silence
of the scene was a slow thumping and creaking sound away
down the road, and on casting my eyes in the right direction I
discovered a large wain, or covered wagon, drawn by seven
horses, and driven by a man who amused himself, as he lazily
moved along, by sii<apping his whip at the plants by the road-
side. I know not whence he came or whither he was going,
but twenty minutes must ha\'e flown before he passed out of ni}'
At one time a flood of discord came to my ear from one

view.

of the huge poplars in the yard, and I could see that there was
a terrible dispute going on between a lot of resident and strangQ

216

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

blackbirds ; and, after they had ceased their noise, I could hear
the chirping of the swallows, as they swooped after the insects,
floating in the sunbeams, far away over the green valley. And
now I heard a laugh and the sound of voices, proceeding from a
party of ten negroes, who were returning from the fields where
they had been cutting hay or hoeing corn. The neighing and
stamping of a steed now attracted my attention, and I saw a
superb blood horse attempting to get away from a negro groom,
who was leading him along the road. The mellow tinkling of
a bell and the lowing of cattle now came trembling on the air,
and presently a herd of cows made their appearance, returning
home from the far-off hills with udders brimming full, and
raising up a dust as they lounged along. Now the sun dropped
behind the hills, and one solitary night-hawk shot high up into
the air, as if he had gone to welcome the evening star, which
presently made its appearance ftom its blue watch-tower; and,
finally, a dozen women came trooping -from the cow-yard into
the dairy-house, with well-filled milkpails on their heads, and
looking like a troop of Egyptian water damsels. And then for
one long hour did the spirits of repose and twilight hold com-
plete possession of the valley, and no sound fell on my ear but
the hum of insect wings.

But I was intending to mention the curiosities of the Name-
less Valley. Foremost among these I would rank a small cave,
on the south side, in which are deposited a curious collection of
human bones. Many of them are very large, while others, which
were evidently full grown, are exceedingly small. Among the
female skulls I noticed one of a female that seemed to be per-
fectly beautiful, but small enough to have belonged to a cliild.
The most curious specimen, however, found in this cave, is the
skull of a man. It is entirely without a forehead, very narrow
across the eyes, full and regularly rounded behind, and from the
lower part of* the ears are two bony projections, neai-ly two
inches in length, which must have presented a truly terrible ap-
pearance when covered with flesh. The animal organs of this
skull are remarkably full, and it is also greatly deficient in all
the intellectual faculties. Another curiosity in this valley is a

cipj

d Lear

naects,

And

from a

where

and

sa,w a

THE NAMELESS VALLEY.

217

groom,

ding of

the air,

liming

'uU, and

dropped

. up into

ir, which

'^er; and,

'^ard into

eads, and

. then for

lold com-

y ear but

tie Name-
mall cave,
llection of
ers, which
mong the
to be per-
o a cliild.
ave, is the
vy narrow
i from the
learly two
errible ap-
ans of this
;ient in all
valley is a

bed of plaster, which lies in the immediate vicinity of a bed of
slate, with a granite and limestone strata only a short distance
ofl^ the whole constituting a geological conglomeration that I
never heard of before. But what is still more remarkable is the
&ct, that within this plaster bed was found the remains of an
unknown animal, which must have been a mammoth indeed.
I saw a grinder tooth belonging to this monster. It has a
blackish appearance, measures about ten inches in length, weighs
four pounds and a half, and was found only three feet from the
surface. Tliis tooth, as well as the skull already mentioned,
were discovered by the proprietor of the valley, and, I am glad
to learn, are about to be deposited by him in the National
Museum at "Washington. But another attractive feature in the
Nameless Valley consists of a kind of Indian Herculaneum,
where, deeply imbedded in sand and clay, are the remains of a
town, whence have been brought to light a great variety of
earthen vessels and curious utensils. Upon this spot, also,
many shells have been found, which are said never to have been
seen excepting on the shore of the Pacific. But all these things
should be described by the antiquary, and I only mention them
for the purpose of letting the world know that there is literally
no end to the wonders of our beautiful land.

I did think of sketching a few of the many charming views
which present themselves from the hills surrounding the Name-
less Valley, but I am not exactly in the mood just now, and I
will leave them " in their glory alone." Connected with a pre-
cipice on one of them, however, I have this incident to relate.
For an hour or more had T been watching the evolutions of a
superb bald-headed eagle above the valley, when, to my surprise,
he suddenly became excited, and darted down with intense
"iWiftness towards the summit of the cliff alluded to, and dis-
appeared among the trees. A piercing shriek followed this
movement, and I anticipated a combat between* the eagle and a
pair of fish-hawks which I knew had a nest upon the cliffi In
less than five minutes after this assault, the eagle again made
his appearance, but uttered not a sound, and, having flown to
the opposite side of the valley, commenced performing a circle^

218

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

in the most graceful manner imaginable. Presently the two
hawks also made their appearance high above their rocky home,
and proceeded to imitate the movements of the eagle. At first
the two parties seemed to be indifferent to each other, but on
observing them more closely it was evident that they were gra-
dually approaching each other, and that their several circles
■were rapidly lessening. On reaching an elevation of perhaps
five thousand feet, they finally interfered with each other, and,
having joined issue, a regular battle commenced, and as they
ascended, the screams of the hawks gradually became inaudible,
and in a short time the three royal birds were entirely lost to
view in the blue zenith.

Before closing this letter, I wi.sh to inform my readers of a
natural curiosity lying between the Clinch and Cumberland
Mountains, and distant from this place only about a day's jour-
ney. I allude to what is called the Natural Tunnel. It is in
Scott county, and consists of p. subterranean channel through
a ragged limestone hill, the entire bed of which is watered by a
running stream about twenty feet wide. The cavern is four
hundred and fifty feet long, from sixty to eighty feet in height,
about seventy in width, and of a serpentine form. On either
side of the hill through which this tunnel passes are perpendicular
cliflfs, some of which are three hundred feet high and exceedingly
picturesque. The gloomy aspect of this tunnel, even at mid-day,
is very imposing; for, when standing near the centre, neither of
its outlets can be seen, and it requires hardly an effort of the
fancy for a man to deem himself for ever er tombed within the
bowels of the earth.

THE CANADIAN RECLUSE.

219

CHAPTER XXX.

THE CANADIAN RECLUSE.

Op the many singular characters which we hare met with in
our various travels, we remember none with .more pleasure, and
even wonder, than the hero of this chapter. In company with
three friends, we were upon a fishing cruise along the northern
shore of the river St. Lawrence, above the Saguenay, and having
on a certain afternoon steered our little craft into a cove at the
mouth of a brook, for the purpose of obtaining fresh water, we
were surprised to find ourselves in the immediate neighbourhood
of a rude but comfortable log cabin. Curiosity, as a matter
of course, led us to visit the cabin, and introduce ourselves to
the proprietor. We did so, and were not only warmly welcomed,
but were invited to tarry with our new acquaintance until the
next day, and, had we not accepted the invitation, the following
particulars would not now be made public.

Tlie individual under consideration was a Frenchman, and a
native of Quebec. He was aboTC the medium height, about
forty years of age, graceful in his manners, active in mind and
body, and altogether just the character to rivet the attention of
the most casual observer. He was wholly ignorant of the world,
having never been out of his native city, excepting when he took
up his abode in this out-of the-way corner of the country, where,
at the time we met with him, he had been secluded for nearly
twenty years. He had a wife (but no children,) who was as
much like himself in appearance and character as nature could
well allow her to be. He was totally illiterate, but possessed an
attachment to botany which was truly remarkable. His cabin
had- only two lower rooms and one garret, and yet the best of

'<\

220

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

the three was exclusively appropriated to a collection of plants,
gathered from the neighbouring hills and mountains, and num-
bering several hundred varieties, together with large moose horns,
furs, and other forest curiosities. He knew not the generic
name of a single specimen, and yet he would expatiate upon
their beauty in the most interesting manner, showing that he
loved them with intense affection. To the discovery and culti-
vation of plants he told us he was in the habit of devoting more
than half of his time, whereupon we asked him from what source
he obtained his living. He informed us that, having inherited
the large tract of land upon which he resided, he had come here
for the purpose of getting a living out of that. On casting our
eyes about, and finding nothing for them to rest upon but moun-
tains of solid rock, where even pine-trees hardly had the courage
to grow, we thought his reply somewhat mysteriou".. He smiled
at our perplexity, and then told us that he had two or three
profitable salmon fishing-grounds within a mile of his house,
which were rented to Quebec fishermen, and yielded him all the
necessaries of life, and that he obtained his fresh meats with his
own hands from the forest.

Had we been inclined to doubt any of the assertions of our
friend in regard to his good living, all such doubts would have
been most assuredly dispelled by what we witnessed and enjoyed
before closing our eyes on the night in question. Having taken
us. to the fishing-ground lying nearest to his cabin, for the pur-
pose of letting us see how the salmon were taken in the circular
set nets (into which they swam on their way up stream when
tlie tide was high, and from which they were taken by hun-
dreds when the tide was low,) he picked out a splendid twenty
pound fish, and piloted ul l^ack again to his dwelling. He
then excused himself from further waiting upon us, and begging
us to amuse ourselves by examining his plants, or doing anything
else we pleased, he informed us that he must assist his wife in
preparing our supper. We bowed our most willing assent, and
as the sun was near setting, we ascended a neighbouring knoll
for the purpose of enjoying the extensive prospect which pre-
sented itself to view.

)lants,
nnra-

I horns,

jeneric
upon

lat he
culti-
Ig more

source
Iherited

le here
ing our
b moun-
courage
3 smiled
or three
3 house,
a all the
with his

s of our
lid have
[ enjoyed
ng taken
the pur-
5 circular
im when
by hun-
1 twenty
ng. He
begging
anything
3 wife in
ent, and
ing knoll
lich pre-

TIIE CANADIAN RECLUSE.

221

We were looking towards the south, and across that portion
of the noble St. Lawrence where it is without an island, and its
shores are twenty-five miles apart. The retinue of clouds around
tlie setting sun were brilliant to a maiwellous degree, and were
distinctly mirrored on the tranquil bosom of the superb river.
In the distance we could barely discover the ttliern shore, form-
ing a long narrow line of purple; about a dozen mile-j to tlie
eastward one solitary ship lay floating, at the mercy of the tide,
and in the foreground was the cabin of our entertainer, partly
hidden from our view by a few stunted trees, and apparently
hemmed in by inaccessible mountains, while before the cabin
lay extended some half-dozen immense mongrel dogs, which
were tha only living creatures, besides ourselves, tending to
animate the lonely scene. Silently communing with our own
hearts we watched with peculiar interest the coming forth,
one after another, of the beautiful stars, and we could not but
tliink of our distant homes, and of the ties which bound us to
the absent and loved. One moment more, and we heard a loud
halloo, which came from the lungs of our Canadian friend, who
informed us that supper was ready, whereupon we descended to
the cabin at a pace bordering upon a run.

And such a supper! Our host presided ; and while two of
his guests were seated on either side, the hostess occupied the
opposite end of the tjil)le from her husband. She could not
speak a word of English, and of course uttered all her apologies
in French; and though the husband pretended to talk English,
we begged him to remember that his guests all understood
French, and that he had better converse as nature dictated. No
objections were made, anc' we proceeded to business. The table
was literally loaded ; and, whilst the matron poured out a capital
cup of coffee, the host overwhelmed the plates of his guests with
various kinds of meat, most of which were fried or broiled al-
most to a crisp. We gave vent to our curiosity by inquiring
the names of the dishes we were eating. From this moment/,
until the truly delicious feast was ended, the talking was all
performed by the Canadian botanist, and the substance of Ins
remarks may be stated as follows; — ,

222

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

« " That meat, in the blue platter, gentlemen, was cut from the
' hind-quartei-s of the biggest black hear ever seen among the
mountains. He weighed over four hundred pounds, and was as
savage as he was ftit and big. I was climbing along the edge
of a hill, about a week ago, for the purpose of securing a small
yellow flower that I had discovered hanging from a rock, when
the boar in question came running out of the mouth of his den,
and saluting me with a long scratch on the back, I gave him a
stab in the belly, and tumbled myself down the otfset in the
most hasty manner imaginable. I always take my gun with
me when I go into the woods, and when I reached the bottom
of the hill I looked out for the bear, and, discovering him on a
stu^ip some twenty yards oiF, I gave him a shot, and he made
at me with the fires of revenge and rage in his eye. I climbed
uj) a small tree, and while the rascal made an unsuccessful
attempt to follow me, I reloaded my gun, and sent another
charge directly into his mouth, which ga re him a bad cough,
and in a short time he staggered a few paces from the tree and
fell to the ground quite dead. / then went hack to the cliff to
secure vny yellow Jlower, and during that afternoon, by the aid
of my pony, dragged the bear to my cabin.

" In that dish, with a piece broken from the edge, gentlemen,
you have a mixture of moose touijite, moose lip, and moose hrains.
I spent nearly a month moose-hunting last winter, in company
with a couple of Indians, and though the snow was deep,
the crust hard, our snow-shoes in good order, our dogs brave
and strong, and moose were numerous, we only killed about
sixteen. I only brought home the heads (while the Indians were
satislied with the skins and haunches;) but I was more than
paid for all my trouble, in the way of hard travelling and cold
sleeping, for, in one of the moose-yards that we visited, I found
a specimen of pine which I had never seen hefore. It was very
soft and beautiful, and I think the book-men of England
would give a good deal of money if they could have it in their
great gardens.

" As to that meat in the white dish, which you all seem to
eat with such a relish, I think you will be surprised to learn

THE CANADIA.V »li(

223

the
the
fiiii as
edge
HmiiU
wlieu
a den,
him a
iu the
with
ottom
ni on a
e made
limbed
ccessful
mother
cough,
,ree and
3 cliff' to
the aid

itlemen,
3 brains.
jompany
as deep,
js brave
id about
ans were
ore than
and cold
, I found
was very
England
t in their

1 seem to
to learu

that it is nothing but heaver's t' il. o TDxy tswte it is the
sweetest meat in the worhl, and I an. aul y sot« / tliat this
valuable animal is becoming so ver^ irco iu i ,i«i section of
country. My present stock of beaver's tail onmw t».>m the 'lor*
of Hudson's Bay, and, though I bought it of an IikUhi >iad
to pay him as much for the tails as the fur company ]mi him
for the skins of his animals. I never trapped for beaver n \ If,
but 1 have for otter, and often have great sport in killing seals,
which are very abundant 'in the St. Lawrence, and afford to the
Indians pretty good food during the hard winters. The only
thing that I have against the beaver is, that he has a fashion,
I am told, of cutting dovm for his house such beautiful trees
as tlie birc/ij mulberry, willow, and poplar, before they are half
grown.

"As to the salmon upon which you have been feasting,
gentlemen, you know as much about that particular individual
as I do, since you saw him while yet in his native element.
The men who hire my fishing-grounds pay me so much for
every fish they take, and sell them at a great profit in Quebec,
and even in Montreal. From the fisheries on this shore the
people of Canada are exclusively supplied with the salmon, and
when we have a good season our merchants manage tb send
over to the United States, in a smoked condition, a good many
thousand. As to taking them with those pretty little flies,
which you gentlemen always carry in your pocket-books, I
' never could understand how you manage to deceive so sensible
a fish as the salmon. Of one thing I am certain : if you expect
to take any of the salmon in this region with those little lines
and hooks, you will be much mistaken. You will have to go
down to the Saguenay, where I am told the fish do not know
any better than to be deceived by your cunning arts. But if I
were ever to follow fishing as you do, i seems to me that instead
of red, yellow, and blue feathers, I should cover my hooks with
tlie bright berries and buds which you may find upon sotne trees
even daring the fishing seas'mr

This last remark of our host convinced us that he was indeed
possessed with a ruling passion, and we of course gratified our-

224

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

selves by humouring him to the length of our patienca He not
only monopolized the c jivereation during supper, but he did
most of the talking until bed- time. We spent the night under
his roof, sleeping upon bear-skins, spread on the floor; and
after an early breakfast, we bade him adieu, and pursued our
course down the St. Lawrence.

place
overj
a coil
be til
to 111
sw:u
had
padc
ing

DEATH IN THE WILDERNESS,

225

CHAPTER XXXI.

DEATH IN THE WILDERNESS.

Midway between the St. Louis River and Sandy Lake, in the
territory of Minesota, is to be found one of the largest and most
forbidding of tamarack swamps. From time immemorial it has
been a thing of dread, not only to the Indians, but also to the
traders and voyagers, for directly across its centre runs the
portage train leading from the waters of Lake Superior to those
of the Upper Mississippi. For a goodly portion of the year it is
blocked up with snow, and during the summer is usually so far
covered with water as only occasionally to afford a little island
of coarse vegetation. It is so desolate a place as to be unin-
habited e /en by wild animals, and hence the ' pleasures of
travelling over it are far from being manifold. In fact, the only
way in which it can be overcome during tho vernal months is
by employing a rude causeway of logs for the more dangerous
places ; and as it happens to be directly on the route of a portage
over wlii'^h canoes and packs of furs are annually transported to
a coiisidtirable extent, we cannot wonder that it should frequently
be the scene of mishaps and accidents. We distinctly remember
to ItMve seen evidences to prove this, when crce crossing the
swiiiiip, for all along the trail were the skeletons of canoes, which
had been abandoned by their owners, together with broken
paddles and remnants of camp furniture. But the most interest-
ing object that we witnessed in this remote corner of the wilder-
ness was a rude wooden cross, surmounting a solitary grave.
And connected with this grave is the following story, obtained
from one who assisted at the burial.

It was a summer day, and many years ago, when a stranger
made his appearance at the Sault St. Marie. He reported

226

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

himself as coming from Montreal, and anxious to obtain a canoe
passage to the head waters of the Mississippi. He was a French-
man, of elegant address, and in easy circumstances, so far as one
could judge from his stock of travelling comforts. His name
and business, however, were alike unknown, and hence a mystery-
attended him. Having purchased a new canoe and a comfort-
able tent, he secured the services of four stalwart Chippeways,
and started upon his western pilgrimage. He sailed along the
southern shore of Lake Superior, and as its unique features
developed themselves to his view one after another, he frequently
manifested the gratification he experienced in the most
enthusiastic manner, thereby increasing the mystery which sur-
rounded him. Wholly unacquainted with the language spoken
by his companions; he could only converse with them by signs ;
but though they could not relate to him the traditions associated
with the sandstone cliifs, mountains, and beautiful islands which
they witnessed, they did everything in their power to make liim
comfortable. They entered his tent and built his watch-fire at
night, supplied him with game and fish, and, during the long
pleasant days, when skimming over the blue waters, entertained
him with their romantic but uncouth songs. In due time, they
reached the superb and most picturesque St. Louis River,
surmounted its waterfalls by means of many portages, entered
and ascended one of its tributaries, and finally drew up their
canoe at the eastern extremity of the portage leading over the
tamarack swamp.

The spot where the voyagers landed was distinguished for its
beauty, and as they arrived there in the afternoon, they
concluded that a better place could not be found to spend the
night. The tent of the stranger was therefore erected, and while
the Indians busied themselves in preparing the evening meal,
the former amused himself by exploring the immediate vicinity
of the encampment. He wandered into a neighbouring swamp,
for the purpose of obtaining a few roots of the sweet flag, of
which he was particularly fond, and, on his return to the tent,
ate an unreasonable quantity of what he had collected. On that
night he was taken sick, and while endeavouring to account for

DEATH IN THE WILDERNESS.

•'.-S.

227

heart-burning and severe pains that he experienced, he pulled
out of his pocket a specimen of the root he had eaten, and handed
it to the Indians. They were surprised at this movement, but
on examining the root they found it to be a deadly poison,
whereupon they managed to inform the stranger tliat he had
made a great mistake, and would probably lose his life. This
intelligence was of course received with amazement and horror,
and the unhappy man spent a most agonizing night. At day-
break he was a little better, and insisted upon immediately con-
tinuing his journey. The voyagers obeyed, and packing up their
plunder, started across the portage in single file. The excite-
ment which filled the mind of the stranger seemed to give new
energy to his sinews, and he travelled for about an hour with
great rapidity; but by the time he reached the centre of the
tamarack swamp his strength failed him, and he was compelled
to call a halt. Upon one of the green islands, already mentioned,
the Indians erected his tent, and, with all the blankets and
robes belonging to the company, made him as comfortable as
possible. The hours of the day were nearly numbered; the
stranger had endured the severest agony, and he knew that he
was about to die ! He divested himself of his clothes, and, with
all his papers and other personal property, motioned that they
should be placed in a heap a few paces from the door of his tent.
His request was obeyed. He then handed them all the money
he had, and despatched all his attendants upon imaginary errands
into the neighbouring woods, and when they returned they
found the heap of clothes and other property changed into heaps
of ashes. They supposed the sick man had lost his reason, and
therefore did not deem his conduct inexplicable. They only
increased their kind attentions, for they felt that the stream of
life was almost dry. Again did the stranger summon the
Indians to his side, and pulling from his breast a small silver
crucifix, motioned to them that tliey should plant upon his grave
a similar memento ; and hiding it again in the folds of his shirt,
cast a lingering and agonizing look upon the setting sun, and in
this manner breathed his last.

By the light of the moon the Indians dug a grave on the

228

ADVENTURES IN THE WSLDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

spot where the stranger died, into which they deposited his
remains, with the crucifix upon his breast. At tlie head of the
grave, they planted a rude cross made of the knotty tamarack
wood, and after a night of troubled repose, started upon their
return to the Sault St. Marie, where they finally recounted
the catastrophe of their pilgrimage. And such is the story that
■we heard of the lonely cross in the northern wilderness sur-
mounting the remains of the nameless exile.

'./ - f*

:'...! r,M

BATTLESNAKES.

229

•.A

CHAPTER XXXII.

RATTLESNAKES.

"We believe that we have seen a greater number of these rep-
tiles, in our various journeyings, and been more intensely
frightened by them, than any other scenery-loving tourist or
angler in the country, and hence the idea of' our present essay.
We shall record our stock of information for the benefit of the
general reader, rather than for the learned and scientific, beginning
our remarks with what we know of the character of that really
beautiful and magnanimous, but most deadly animal, which was
adopted as the revolutionary emblem of our country, as the eagle
is now the emblem of the republic.

The rattlesnake derives its name from an instrument attached
to its tail, consisting of a series of hollow scaly pieces, which, when
shaken, make a rattling or rustling noise. The number of these
pieces or rattles are said to correspond with the number of yeara
which the animal has attained, and some travellers assert that
they have been discovered with thirty rattles, though thirteen
is a much more common number. It is one of the most venomous
of serpents, and yet one that we cannot but respect, since it
habitually makes the most honourable use of the singular appen-
dage with which it is gifted. It never strikes a foe without first
warning him of his danger. In form, it is somewhat coipulent,
has a flat heart-shaped head, and is supplied with fangs, varying
from a half-inch to an inch in length, which lie hidden horizon-
tally in the flesh of the upper jaw, and are capable of being
thrown out like the blade of a knife. The venom emitted by it
is so deadly that it has been known to cause the death of a
human being in a very few hours, and to destroy a dog or cat in
less than twenty minutes, and yet we have met with some half-

530

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

dozen individuals in our travels who have been bitten by the
rattlesnake without being seriously injured. Horses and cattle
are known to become exceedingly terrified at its appearance, and
generally speaking, when bitten, die in a short time, and yet we ■
once saw a horse which was only troubled, in consequence of its
bite, by a disease resembling the scurvy. The hair dropped from
the skin of the quadruped, and he looked extremely ill, if he did
not feel so. As to the effect of this poison upon hogs, it has fre-
quently been proved to be perfectly harmless, and we know it to
be the custom in certain portions of the country for farmers to
employ their swine for the express purpose of destroying tlie
rattlesnakes infesting their land. The effect of the rattlesnake's
bite upon itself is said to be generally fatal. In regard to the
antidote to this poison, we are acquainted with only one, which
is the plant commonly called the rattlesnake weed. Both the
leaf and the root are e mployed, and applied internally as well as
externally. This plant grows to the height of six or eight inches,
has one stock, and a leaf resembling in shape the head of the rat-
tlesnake, and is almost invariably found in those sections of the
country where the reptile abounds.

The courage of the rattlesnake is by no means remarkable, and
it is but seldom that they will dispute the right of way w^ith a
man who is not afraid of them. They are sluggish in their
movements, and accomplish most of their travelling during the
nocturnal hours. They feed upon almost every variety of living
creatures which they can overpower. They are not partial to
water, but when compelled to cross a river or lake, they perform
the feat in a most beautiful manner, holding their heads about
one foot from the surface, and gliding along at a rapid rate,
^hey are affectionate creatures, and it is alleged that when their
offspring are very young, and they are disturbed by the presence
of man, the mothers swallow their little ones until the danger is
past, and then disgorge them alive and writhing.

Another of their peculiarities consists in the fact, that they
may be entirely disarmed by brandishing over their heads the
leases of the white ash, which are so obnox'ous to their nervous
fiystem as to produce the most painful contortions of the- body.

RATTLESNAKES.

231

n by the

lid cattle

•ance, and

id yet we

nee of its

Dped from

if he did

it lias fre-

;now it to

irmers to

)ying the

;tlesnake's

rd to the

ne, which

Both the

as well as

jht inclies,

of the rat-

ans of the

kable, and
ly with a
I in their
uring the
Y of living
partial to
sy perform
ads about
apid rate,
v^hen their
Q presence
I danger ia

that they
heads the
ir nervous
bhek body.

^Yhen travelling at night in search of food, or for purposes of
lecreation, as it may be, they have a fashion of visiting the en-
campments of hunters, and it has been ascertained that the only
way of keeping them at a respectable distance is to encircle the
camp with a rope, over which they are afraid to crawl; and it
lias frequently happened to hunters, in a snake country, that on
awaking after a night of repose, tliey have discovered on the
outside of their magic circle as many as a dozen of the charming
creatures, carefully coiled up and sound asleep. It is also related
of this snake that it has the power of throwing off or suppressing
a disagreeable effluvium, which is quite sickening to those who
come within its range. If this be true, it occurs chiefly in the
month of August, when the weather is sultry and the snake is
particularly fat. That this snake has the power of charming, as
some writers maintain, may be true, but w^e are not aware of an
authenticated instance. That it may have a very quiet way of
stealing upon its prey seems to us much more plausible ^ but we will
not commit ourselves by declaring this to be a fact. As to their
power of hissing — that also is an undecided qaestion. In regard
to their manner of biting we can speak with more confidence.
They never attack a man without first coiling themselves in a
graceful manner, and, instead of jumping, they merely extend their
bodies, with the quickness of thought, towards their mark, and
if they do not reach it, they have to coil themselves again for a
second efibrt, and when they hit a man at all, it is generally on
his heel — for the bruising of which they have the authority of the
Scriptures.

The rattlesnake is peculiar to the American continent. Four
varieties alone are known to naturalists, three of which are found
in the United States, and one in South America. In the st^ites
bordering on the Gulf of Mexico they attain the length of seven
and eiffht feet, and a diameter of three to four inches — the males
having four fangs, and the females only two. These are
characterized by a kind of diamond figure on the skin, and are
partial to the low or bottom lands of the country. Those found
in the Middle and Northern States are called the common or
banded rattlesnakes; and are altogether the most abundant in the

232

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

Union. They vary in length from two and a half to four feet,
and are partial to mountainous and rocky districts. There is
also a \ory smill, but most dangerous variety, called the ground
rattlesnakes, which are found on the sterile and sandy prairies of
the West, and, to a limited extent, in the barren districts of the
South. In Canada they are almost unknown, and even in the
more thickly settled states of the Union they are rapidly be-
coming extinct. As to their value, it may be stated that their
oil and gall are highly prized in some sections of the Union for
the cure of consumption, and it is said that their bodies when
dried by fire and pulverized, and then infused in brandy, are a
certain cure for rheumatism. By the Indians and slave popula-
tion of the South, their flesh is frequently employed as an article
of food, and really considered sweet and nourishing.

The attachment of the aborigines to this famous reptile is
proverbial : among nearly all the tribes, even at the p^- jsent day,
it is seldom disturbed, but is designated by the endeaidng epithet
of grandfather. It is recorded, however, by the early historians,
that when one tribe desired to challenge another to combat, they
were in the habit of sending into the midst of their enemy the
skin of a rattlesnake, whereby it would appear to have been em-
ployed as an embleni of revenge. And as to the origin of the
rattlesnake, the old men among the Cherokees relate a legend to
the following effect, which, the reader will notice, bears a striking
analogy to the history of our Saviour. A very beautiful young
man, with a white face and wrapped in a white robe, once made
liis appearance in their nation, and commanded them to abandon
all their old customs and festivals, and to adopt a new religion.
He made use of ;he softest language, and everything that he did
proved him to bd a good man. It so happened, however, that he
could make no friends among them, and the medicine men of the
nation conspired \ o take away his life. In many ways did they
try to do this — by lashing him with serpents and by giving him
poison, but were always unsuccessful. But in process of time
the deed was accomplished, and in the following manner : It was
known that the good stranger was in the habit of daily visiting
a certain spring for the purpose of quenching his thirst, and

BATTLESNAEES.

233

ur feet,
?here is

ground
airies of
8 of the

in the
idly be-
at their
lion for
es when
r, are a
popula-
1 article

ptile is
ent day,
; epithet
jtorians,
)at, they
emy the
)een em-
i of the
jgend to
striking
il young
ce made
ibandon
religion.
t he did

that he
sn of the
iid they
ing him
of time

It was
visiting
rst, and

bathing his body. In view of this fact, the magicians made a
very beautiful war-club, inlaid with bone and shells, and de-
ooriited with rattles, and this club they offered to the Great Spi-
rit, v/ith the prayer that he would teach them how to destroy
the stranger. In answer to the prayer, a venomous snake was
created ard carefully hidden under a leaf by the side of the spring.
The stranger, as usual, came there to drink, was bitten by the snake
and perished. The Cherokee nation then fell in love with the
snake, and having asked the Great Spirit to distinguish it, by
some peculiar mark, from all the other snakes in the world, he
complied by transferring to its body the rattles which had made
the club of sacrifice so musical to the ear, and so beautiful to the
eye. And from that rattlesnake are descended all the poisonous
snakes now scattered through the world.

We commenced this article with the determination of not
writing a single paragraph (for the above legend, after a fashion,
is historical) which could be classed with the unbelievable things
called " Snake Stories," but the following matter-of-fact, though
disconnected anecdotes, may not be unacceptable to our readers.

We were once upon a fishing expedition among the mountains
of North Carolina, witli two other gentlemen, when it so happen-
ed that we determined to spend the night in a deserted log cabin,
belonging to one of the party. By the light of a large fire, we
partook of a cold but comfortable supper, and after talking our-
selves into a drowsy mood, we huddled together on the floor,
directly in front of the fire-place, and were soon in a sound sleep.
About midnight, wheu the fire was out, one of the party was
awakened by a singular rattling noise, and having roused his
companions, it was ascertained beyond a doubt that there were
two rattlesnakes within the room where they were lying. We
arose, of course, horrified at the idea, and as we were in total
darkness, we were afraid even to move for fear of being bitten.
We soon managed, however, to strike a light, ai-d when we did
BO, we found one of our visiters on the hearth, and one in the
remotest corner of the room . We killed them, as a matter of
course, with a most hearty relish, and in the morning destroyed
another of the same race, just without the threshold of the cabin.

234

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

The reptiles had probably left the cabin just before our arrival,
and on returning at midnight, had expressed their displeasure
at our intrusion upon their abode, by sounding their rattles.

On another occasion we were of a i:)arty of anglers who killed
a rattlesnake on one of the mountains overlooking Lake George
(where this reptile is very abundant,) and, after its head had oeen
cut off and buried, one of the party affirmed that there was not
a person present who could take the dead snake in his hand, hold
it out at arm's length, and give it a sudden squeeze, without
dropping it to the ground. A wager was offered, and by -^he
most curious and courageous of the party was accepted. He took
the snake in his hand and obeyed the instructions, when the ser-
pentine body suddenly sprang as if endowed with life, and the
headless trunk struck the person holding it with cci isiderable
force upon the ann. To add that the snake fell to the ground
most suddenly is hardly necessary. "We enjoyed a laugh at the
expense of our ambitious friend, for the phenomenon which he
made known may be easily explained: However, since that
time we have been led to believe that there is not one man in a
thousand who would have the fortitude to succeed in the ex-
periment above mentioned.

'i/-u;v

arrival,
pleasure
ties.

10 killed

George

lad been

was not

md, hold

without

by -^he

He took

1 the ser-

and the

siderable

J ground

jh at the

vhich he

ince that

man in a

a the esr

SALMON FISHING.

235

'h' r-

CHAPTER XXXIII.

SALMON FISHING.

I like the society of fish, and as they cannot with any convenience to themselves visit
me on dry land, it becomes me in point of courte&y to pay my respects to them in
their own element. — William Scrope.

Of the genuine salmon, we believe there is but one distinct
species in the world ; we are sure there is not in the United
States. From its lithe beauty, its wonderful activity, and its
value as an article of food, it unquestionably takes precedence of
all the fish which swim in our waters.

The variety of which we speak is a slender fish, particularly
solid in texture, and has a small head and delicate fins. The
upper jaw is the larger, while the tip of the under jaw in the
female has an upward turn. The back, is usually of a bluish colour,
the sides of a silvery hue, and the belly pure white, while along
the centre of its body runs a narrow black stripe. The scales
are small, and the mouth is covered with small, but stout and
pointed teeth. A few dark spots are dispersed over that part of
the body above the lateral line, and the females usually exhibit
a larger number of these spots than the males. The tail of the
young sabnon is commonly forked, while in the adult fish
it is quite square. To speak of the salmon as a bold biter .and
a handsome fish, or of his wonderful leaping powers, would be
but to repeat a thrice-told tale.

And now for a few words on some of the habits of the salmon.
He is unquestionably the most active of all the finny tribes, but
the wonderful leaps which he is reported to have made are all
moonshine. We have seen them perform some superb somersets,
but we never yet saw one which could scale a perpendicular

i.i 'HI

236

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

waterfall of ten feet. That they have been taken above water-
fulls three or four times as high we do not deny; but the wonder
may be dispensed with, when we remember that a waterfall sel-
dom occurs, which does not contain a number of resting-places
for the salmon to take advantage of while on his upward journey.

Contrary to the prevailing opinion, we contend that the salmon
is possessed of a short memory. While fishing in a small river
on a certain occasion, owing to the bad position in which we
were placed, we lost a favourite fly, and it so happened that in
about one hour afterwai '.^ a fish was taken by a brother angler,
in whose mouth was fouud the identical fly that we had lost.*

This fish is a voracious feeder, and an epicure in his tastes, for
his food is composed principally of small and delicate fish, and
the sea-sand eel; but it is a fact that the surest bait to capture
him with is the common red worm.

The salmon is a shy fish, and as he invariably inhabits the
clearest of water, it is always important that the angler's move-
ments should be particularly cautious; and in throwing the fly,
he should throw it clear across the stream, if possible ; and after
letting it float down for a few yards he should gradually draw it
bac^^ again, with an upward tendency.

Like all other fish that swim near the surface of the water, the
salmon cannot be eaten in too fresh a condition; and, judging
from our own experience, they may be eaten three times a-day,
for a 'vhole season, and at the end of their running time they will
gratify the palate more efiectually than when first brought upon
tlie table.

The process of spawning has been described by various wrifcei-s,
and the general conclusion is as follows. On reaching a suitable
spot for that purpose, the loving pair manage to dig a furrow
some six feet long, in the sand or gravel, into which the male
ejects his milt, and the female her spawn. ; this they cover with
their tails, and leaving this deposit to the tender mercies of the
liquid elements, betake themselves to the sea whence they came.
This spawning operation usually occupies about ten days, and
takes place in the autumn; and when the spring-time comes the
* This is by no means an uncommon drcumstance. — Ed. fM

601
thl

noi^

SALMON FISIIIXO.

237

water-
ivonder
fall sel-
'-placea
urney.
salmon
1 river
lich we
^hat iu
angler,
lost.*
stes, for
sh, and
capture

bits the
s move-
the fly,
ind after
r draw it

ater, the
judging
es a-day,
;hey will
jht upon

J wribera,
, suitable
I furrow
ihe male
ver with
33 of the
ey came.

ays,

and

omes the

isalmon are bom, and, under " their Creator's protection," are
swept into the sea, where they come to their natural estate by
the following spring, and ascend their native rivers to revisit the
haunts of their minnowhood. And it is a singular fact, that tlie
salmon leaves the sea in an emaciated condition, acquires his fat-
ness while going up a river, and subsequently returns to the sea
for the purpose of n jruiting his wonted health and beauty.*

The salmon is a restless fish, and seldom found a second time
1.1 exactly the same spot ; but his principal travelling time is in
the night, when the stars are shining brightly and all the world
is wrapt in silence.

The salmon come up from the sea during a flood or a freshet,
and in ascending a river, they invariably tarry for a short time
in all the pools of the same. Their object in doing this has not
been clearly defined ; but is it unreasonable to suppose that they
are influenced by the same motives which induce a human travel-
ler to tarry in a pleasant valley? The only difierence is, that
when the man would resume his journey he waits for a sunny
day, while the salmon prefers a rainy day to start upon his pil-
grimage. The best places to fish for salmon are the shallows
above the deep pools ; and it is a settled fact, that after you have
killed a fish, you are always sure to find in the course of a few
hours another individual in the same place. It would thus seem
that they are partial to certain localities. Another thing that
should be remembered is, that salmon never take the natural fly
while it is in a stationary position, or when floating down stream;
hence the great impoi-tance of carrying the artificial fly directly
across the stream, or in an upward oblique direction. When you
have hooked a salmon, it is a bad plan to strain upon him in any
degree, unless he is swimming towards a dangerous ground, and
even then this is an unsafe experiment. The better plan is to
throw a pebble in froat of him, for the purpose of frightening
him back, and you should manage to keep as near his royal per-
son as practicable. Another peculiarity of the salmon is the fact
that (excepting the shad) it is the only fish which seems to be

• The propagation of salmon at Galway and elsewhere by artificial means, which ia
now carried on most successfully, will throw much light on the habits of this fish.— Ed,

238

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

perfectly at home in the salt sea, as well as in the fresh springs
among the mountains. It is also singular in the colour of its
flesh, which is a deep pink, and the texture of its flesh is remark-
ably solid : the latter circumstance is proved by the fact that you
cannot carry a salmon by the gills, as you can other fish, without
tearing and mutilating him to an uncommon degree.

In olden times there was hardly a river on the eastern coast
of the United States, north of Virginia, which was not annually
visited by the salmon ; but those days are for ever departed, and
it is but seldom that we now hear of their being taken in any
river south of Boston. They frequented, in considerable num-
bers, the Susquehanna, the Delaware, and North rivers, but
were eminently abundant in the Connecticut and the Thames.
On the former stream it used to be stipulated by the day-labourer,
that he should have salmon placed upon his table only four
times in the week ; and we have been told by an old man re-
siding on the latter stream, that the value of three salmon, forty
years ago, was equal to one shad — the former wore so much
more abundant than the latter. But steamboats and the din of
cities, have long since frightened the salmon from their ancient
haunts, and the beautiful aborigines of our rivers now seek for
undisturbed homes in more northeni waters. Occasionally
even at the present time, the shad fishermen of the Merrimac
and Saco succeed in netting a small salmon ; but in the Andros-
coggin, Kennebec, and Penobscot, they are yet somewhat abun-
dant, and these are the rivers wliich chiefly supply our city
markets with the fresh article.

As the ice melts away in the spring, says Dr. J. V. C. Smith,
in his interesting little book on the Fishes of Massachusetts, they
rush to the rivers from the ocean; and it is an undeniable fact,
confirmed by successful experiments, that they visit, as far as
possible, the very streams in which they were born. When un-
disturbed, they swim slowly in large schools near the surface;
yet they are so timid, that if suddenly frightened, the whole column
will turn directly back towards the sea. Is has also been proven
that a salmon can scud at the surprising velocity of thirty miles
an hour. The young are about a foot long when they visit the

SALMON TISIIINO.

289

spnngs
of its
•emark-
lat you
without

n coast

nnually

ed, and

in any

e niini-

jrs, but

riiaines,

ibourer,

ily four

man re-

Dn, forty

50 much

le din of

' ancient

seek for

isionally

lerrimac

Andros-

at abun-

our city

\ Smith,
tts, they
ble fact,
as far as
'hen un-
surface ;
3 column
I proven
ty miles
visit the

rivers for the first time; and at the end of two years, according
lo Mr. Smitli, they weigh five or six pounds, and attain their full
growth in about six years. When running up the rivers they
are in a fat condition ; after that period, having deposited their
spawn, they return to the sea, loan and emaciated, in extremely
warm weather, and while yet in the salt water, they are often
greatly annoyed by a black and flat-looking insect, which is apt
to endanger their lives. As ^con, however, as they reach the
fresh water, this insect drops off, and they rapidly improve.

The streams which these fish ascend are invariably distinguish-
ed for their rocky and gravelly bottoms, for the coldness an I
purity of theii* water, and for their rapid currents. Those which
afford the angler the most sport are rather small and shallow,
and empty into tide-water rivers ; while in these th'ey are chiefly
taken with the net. The tributaries of the Androscoggin,
Kennebec, and Penobscot, having all been blocked up with mill-
dams, the salmon is only found in the principal estuaries; and
as these are large and deep, they are of no value to the angler,
and will not be many years longer even to the fishermen wh.i
cajiture them for the purpose of making money. So far as our
own experience goes, we only know of one river, within the
limits of the Union, which affords the angler good salmon fishing,
and that is the Aroostook, in Maine. We have been informed,
however, that the regular salmon is taken in many of those
rivers, in the northern part of New York, which empty into
Lake Ontario, and the upper St. Lawrence, but we are compelled
to doubt the truth of the statement. Such may have been the
case in former times, but we think it is not so now. Salmon are
not taken at Montreal, and it is therefore unreasonable to sup-
pose that they ever reach the fountain-head of the St. Lawrence;
this portion of the great river is too far from the ocean, and too
extensively navigated, and the water is not sufficiently clear.
That they once ascended to the Ottawa river and Lake Ontario
we have not a doubt, but those were in the times of the days of
old. Another prevailing opinion with regard to salmon we have
it in our power decidedly to contradict. Mr. John J. Brown,
in his useful little book entitled the " American Angler's Guide,"

240

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

-Ui;

makes the remark, that salmon are found in great abundance
in the Mississippi and its magnificent tributaries. Such is not
the fact, and we are sure that if " our brother" had ever caught a
glimpse of the muddy Mississippi, he would have known by in-
tuition that such could not be the case. Nor is the salmon
partial to any oi the rivers of the far South, as many people sup-
pose, not being known in any river emptying into the Gulf of
Mexico ; so that the conclusion of the whole matter is just this,
that the salmon fisheries of the United States proper are of but
little consequence when compared with many other countries on
the globe. When we come to speak of our territories, however,
we have a very different story to relate, for a finer river for
salmon does not water any country than the mighty Columbia
— that same Columbia where a certain navigator once purchased
a ton of salmon for a jack-knife. But that river is somewhat
too far off to expect an introduction in our present essay, and we
vnW. therefore take our reader, by his permission, into the
neighbouring provinces of Canada, New Brunswick, and Nova
Scotia.

Before proceeding another step, however, we must insert a
paragraph about the various methods employed to capture the
salmon. The Indians, and many white barbarians, spear them
by torchlight; and the thousands sent to market in a smoked
condition are taken in nets and seines of various kinds. But the
only instruments used by the scientific angler are a rod and reel,
three hundred feet of hair or silk line, and an assortment of arti-
ficial flies. Our books tell us that a gaudy fly! is commonly the
best killer, but our own experience inclines us to the belief that
a large brown or black hackle, or any neatly made grey fly, is
much preferable to the finest fancy specimens. As to bait-fishing
for salmon, we have never tried it — ^we care less about it than
we know, and we know but very little. Next to a delicately
made fly, the most important thing to consider is the leader of
the line, which should be made of the best material (a twisted
gut,) and at least five feet in length. But if the angler is afraid
of wading in a cold and even a deep stream, the very best of
tackle will avail him nothing. It is but seldom that a large

SALMON FISHING.

241

undance
ill is not
caught a
n by in-
salmon
Dple sup-
Gulf of
just thiS)
Te of but
ntries on
however,
river for
Columbia
)urchased
somewhat
y, and we
into the
md Nova

; insert a
ipture the
pear them
a smoked
But the
I and reel,
snt of arti-
tnonly the
belief that
rrey fly, is
ait-fishing
ut it than
delicately
3 leader of
[a twisted
ir is afraid
sry best of
kt a large

salmon can be taken, without costing the captor a good deal o£
hard labour, and a number of duckings. And when the character
of the fish is remembered, this assertion will not appear strange.
Not only is the salmon a large fish, but he is remarkable for his
strength and lightning quickness. Owing to his extreme careful-
ness in meddling with matters that may injure him, it is
necessary to use the most delicate tackle, in the most cautious
and expert manner. To pull a salmon in shore, immf liately
after he has been hooked, will never do; the expert way is to
give him all the line he wants, never forgetting in the meantime
that it must be kept perfectly taut. And this must be done con"
tinually, in spite of every obstacle, not only when the fish per-
forms his splendid leaps out of the water, but also when he is
stemming the current of the stream, trying to break the hook
against a rock, or when he has made a sudden wheel, and is
gliding down the stream with the swiftness of a falling star.
The last efibrt to get a '"ay wliich T have mentioned, is usually
the last that the salmon makes, and it is therefore of the highest
importance that the angler should manage him correctly when
going down. Narrow rifts, and even waterfalls, do not stop the
salmon; and bushes, deep holes, slippery bottoms, and rocky
shores, must not impede the coui-se of the angler who would
secure a prize. And though the salmon is a powerful fish, he is
not long-winded, and by his great impatience is apt to drown
liimself much sooner than one would suppose. The times most
favourable for taking this fip^ are early in the morning and late
in the afternoon ; and when the angler reaches his fishing ground
and discovers the salmon leaping out of the water, as if too happy
to remain quiet, he may then calculate upon rare sport. As to
the pleasure of capturing a fine salmon, we conceive it to be
more exquisite than any other sport in the world. We have
killed a buffalo on the head waters of the St. Peter's river, but
we had every advantage over the pursued, for we rode a well-train-
ed horse and carried a double-ban'elled gun. "We have seen John
Cheney bring to the eai-th a mighty bull moose, among the Adi-
rondac mountains, but he was assisted by a pair of terrible dogs,
and carried a heavy rifle. But neither of these exploits is to be

242

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

compared with that of capturing a twenty pound salmon, with
a line almost as fine as the flowing hair of a beautiful woman.
When we of a fly to a salmon, we take no undue advantage of
him, but auyw him to fdllow his own free will ; and when he has
hooked himself, we give him permission to match his strength
against our skill. We have sat in a cariole and driven a Canadi.in
pacer at the rate of a mile in two minutes and a half, on the icy
plains of Lake Erie, and, as we held the reins, have thought we
could not enjoy a more exquisite pleasure. That experience,
however, was ours long beft)re we had ever seen a genuine Balmon j
we are somewhat wiser now, for we have acquired the art of driving
through the pure white foam even a superb salmon, and that, too,
with only a silken line some hundred yards in length.

One of the most fruitful salmon regions for the angler to visit
lies on the north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between the
Saguenay and the Godbout river, in Labrador, A few years ago,
however, there was good fishing to be had in Mai Bay river,
above the Saguenay, and also in the Jacques Cartier, above
Quebec, but good sport is seldom found in either of those stream-
at the present time. But the principal tributaries of the Saguena
itself (particularly the river St. Margaret,) afford the rarest of
sport, even now. The streams of this coast are rather small, but
very numerous, and without a single exception, we believe, are
rapid, cold, and clear. They abound in waterfalls, and though
exceedingly^ wild, are usually quite convenient to angle in, for the
reason that the spring freshets aie apt to leave a gravelly mar-
gin on either side. The conveniences for getting to this out-of-
the-way region are somewhat rude, but quite comfortable and
very romantic. The angler has to go in a Quebec fishing smack,
or if he is in the habit of trusting to fortune when he gets into
a scrape, he can always obtain a passage down the St. Lawrence
in a brig or ship, which will land him at any stated point. If
he goes in a smack, he can always make use of her tiny cabin for
his temporary home; but if he takes a ship, after she has spread
her sails for Europe, he will have to depend upon the hospitality
of the Esquimaux Indians. At the mouths of a few of the streams
alluded to, he may chance to find the newly-built cabin of a lum-

supj
and
nortl
witl

m, with
woman,
.ntage of
n he has
3trength
anadinu
1 the icy
)ught we
perience,
3 Balmon ;
)f driving
that, too,

3r to visit
iween the
years ago,
Bay river,
ler, above
se stream^
Saguena;
I rarest of
small, but
elieve, are
id though
) in, for the
srelly mar-
his out-of-
rtable and
ing smack,
( gets into
Lawrence
point. If
y cabin for
has spread
hospitality
the streams
In of a lum-

SALMON FISHINa.

243

berman, who will treat him with marked j)olitenoss; but he must
not lay the " flattering unction" to his soul that he will receive
any civilities from the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company
whom he may happen to meet in that northern wilderness.

A large proportion of these streams run through an unknown
mountain land, and are yet nameless ; so that we cannot designate
the precise localities where we have been particularly successful ;
and we might add that the few which have been named by the
Jesuit missionaries can never be remembered without a feeling
of disgust. Not to attempt a pun, it can safely be remarked that
those names are decidedly beantly; for they celebrate such crea-
tures as the hog, the sheep, and the cow. The salmon taken on
this coast vary from ten to foi-ty pounds, though the average
weight is perhaps fifteen pounds. They constitute an important
article of commerce, and it is sometimes the cape that a single
fisherman will secure at least fovr hundred at one tide, in a sin-
gle net. The cities of Montreal and Quebec are supplied with
fresh salmon from this portion of the St. Lawrence, and the entire
valley of that river, as well as portions of the Union, are supplied
with smoked salmon from the same region. The rivers on the
southern coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence are generally well
supplied with salmon, but those streams are few and far between,
and difficult of access. But a visit to any portion of this great
northern valley, during the pleasant summer time, is attended
with many interesting circumstances. Generally speaking, the
scenery is mountainous, and though the people are not very
numerous, they are somewhat unique in their manners and cus-
toms, and always take pleasure in lavishing their attentions upoti
the stranger. The weeks that we spent voyaging upon the St. Law-
rence we always remember with unalloyed pleasure; and if we
thought that fortune would never again permit us to revisit those
delightful scenes, we should indeed be quite unhappy.

The most agreeable of our pilgrimages were performed in a
small sail-boat, commanded by an experienced and very intelli-
gent pilot of Tadousac, named Oavington, and our companions
were Charles Pentland, Esq., of L'anse a-l'eau, on the Saguenay,
and David Price, Esq., of Quebec. We had every thing we wanted

244-

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

in the way of " creature comforts;" and we went every where,
saw every body, caught lots of salmon, killed an occasional seal,
and tried to harpoon an occasional white porpoise ; now enjoying
a glorious sunset, and then watching the stars and the strange
auroras, as we lay becalmed at midnight far out upon the deep;
at one time gazing with wonder upon a terrible storm, and then
again, happy, fearless, and free, dashing over the billows before a
stiff gale.

Some of the peculiar charms of fly-fishing in this region are
owing to the fact, that you are not always sure of the genus of
your fish even after you have hooked him, for it may be a forty
or a twenty pound salmon, and then again it may be a salmon-
trout or a four pound specimen of the common trout. The con-
sequence is, that the expectations of the angler are always
particularly excited. Another pleasure which might be men-
tioned is derived from the queer antics and laughable yells of the
Indians, who are always hanging about your skirts for the express
purpose of making themselves merry over any mishap which may
befall you. The only drawback which we have found in fishing
in these waters is caused by the immense number of musquitoes
and sand-flies. Every new guest is received by them with par-
ticular and constant attention ; their only desire, by night or day,
seems to be to gorge themselves to death with the life-blood of
those who " happen among them." It actually makes our blood
run cold to think of th^ misery we endured from these winged
tormentors.

Even with the Gulf of St. Lawrence before our mind, we are
disposed to consider the Bay of Chaleur the most interesting sal
mon region in the British possessions. This estuary divides
Lower Canada from New Brunswick, and as the streams emptying
into it are numerous and always clear, they are resorted to by
the salmon in great numbers. The scenery of the bay is remark-
ably beautiful, the northern shore being rugged and mountainous,
presents an agreeable contrast to the southern shore, which is an
extensive lowland, fertile, and somewhat cultivated. The prin-
cipal inhabitants of this region are Scotch farmers, and the sim-
plicity of their lives is only equalled by their hospitality; and

(a
tiiJ

SALMON FISHING.

24^

where,
[nal seal,
enjoying

strange
[le deep;
md then
before a

jgion are
genus of
a forty
salmon-
The con-
•e always
be men-
ells of the
le express
rhich may
in fishing
niisquitoes
with par-
xht or day,
fe-blood of
5 our blood
!se winged

id, we are
resting sal
ry divides
s emptying
rted to by

is remark-
)untainous,
which is an

The prin-
d the sim-
bality; and

upon this bay, also, reside the few survi '■ors of- a once powerful
aboriginal nation, the Micmac Indians. But of all the rivers
which empty into the Bay of Chaleur, there is no^ one that can
be compared to the Restigouche, which is its principal tributary.
It is a winding stream, unequal in width, and after runnitig
through a hilly country, it forces its way through a superb moun-
tain gorge, and then begins to. expand in width until it falb
into its parent bay. The scenery is most beautiful, the eye
being occasionally refreshed by the appearance of a neat farm,
or a little Indian hamlet. The river is particularly famous for
its sulmon, which are very abundant and of a good size. But
tliis j.s a region which the anglers of our country or the provinces,
with two or three exceptions, have not yet taken the trouble to
visit, it-id many of the resident inhabitants are not even aware
of the fact that the salmon may be taken with the fly. The
regular fishermen catch them altogether with the net, and the
Indians with the spear ; and it is a singular fact that the Indians
are already complaining of the whites for destroying their fish-
eries, when it is known that a single individual will frequently
capture in a single day a hundred splendid fellows, and that, too,
with a spear of only one tine. It is reported of a Scotch cbrgy-
man who once angled in " these parts," that he killed three hun-
dred salmon in one season, and with a single rod and reel. A
pilgrimage to the Ilestigouche would afford the salmon fisher
sufficient material to keep his memory busy for at least one year.
The angler and lover of scenery who could spare a coui)le of
months, would find it a glorious trip to go to the Bay of Chaleur
in a vessel around Nova Scotia, returning in a canoe by the Bes-
tigouche and the Salmon river, which empties into the St. John.
His most tedious portaj^e would be only about three miles long
(a mere nothing to the genuine angler,) and soon after touching
the latter river he could ship himself on board of a steamboat,
and come home in less than a week, even if that homo happened
to be west of the Alleghany mountains. The Nepisiguit and the
Miramichi, as I am told, are aiso glorious streams for the salmon
fisher.

Of all the large rivers, indeed, of New Brunswick, we know not

246

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NOIITH AMER[C.V.

a single one which will not afford the fly fisherman an abundance
of sport. Foremost among our favourites, we would mention the
St. John, with the numerous beautiful tributaries which come
into it beiow the Great Falls, not forgetting the magnificent
pool below those falls, nor Salmon river, the Tobique and the
Aroostook. The scenery of this -valley is truly charming, but
the X man who would spend a summer therein must have a
remarkably long purse, for the half-civilized and white people of
the region have a particular passion for imposing upon travellers,
and charging tliem the most exorbitant prices for the simple
necessaries they may need. The salmon of the St. John are
numerous, but rather small, seldom weighing more than fifteen
pounds. The fisheries of the bay of Fundy, near the mouth of
the St. John, constitute an important interest, in a commercial
point of view. The fishermen here take the salmon with drag-
nets, just before high water: the nets are about sixty fathoms
long, and require three or four boats to manage them. . The fish
are all purchased at this particular point, by one man, at the rate
of eighty cents a-piece, large and small, during the entire season.
The other New Brunswick rivers to which we have alluded, are
the Miramichi and the St. Croix ; but as we have never angled
in either, we will leave them to their several reputations. • .

We now come to say a few words of Nova Scotia, which is not
only famous for its salmon, but also for its scientific anglers. In
this province the old English feeling for the " gentle art" is kept
up, and we know of fly fishermen there, a record of whose pisca-
torial exploits woidd have overwhelmed even the renowned
Walton and Davy with astonishment. The rivers of Nova Scotia
are very numerous, and usually well supplied with salmon. The
great favourite among the Halifax anglers is Gold river, a cold
and beautiful stream, which is about sixty miles distant from
that city, in a westerly direction. The valley of the stream is
somewhat settled, and by a frugal and hard-working Swiss and
German population, who pitched their tents there in 1760. It
is fifteen years since it was discovered by a strolling angler, and
at the present time there is hardly a man residing on its banks
who d( f s not consider himself a faithful disciple of Walton. Even

SALMON FISHING.

24T

mdanoe
ion the
h come
nificent
and the
ng, but
have a
eople of
avellers,
simple
ohn are
Q fifteen
louth of
nmercial
ith drag-
fathoms
The fish
p the rate
re season,
uded, are
er angled
is. ■•..■■
ich is not
lers. In
" is kept
)se pisca-
enowned
va Scotia
•n. The
:•, a cold
mi from
itream is
wiss and

reo. It

jler, and
ts banks
1. Even

among the Ivlicmac Indians, who pay the river an annual visit,
may be occasionally found an expert fly fisher. But, after all,
Nova Scotia is not exactly the province to which a Yankee
angler vould enjoy a visit, for cockney fishermen are a little
too abundant, and the ways of the people, in some particular,
are not over agreeable. ^

Having finished our geographical history of the salmon and
his American haunts, we will take our leave of him, by simply
remarking (for the benefit of those who like to preserve what
they caplire) that there, are three modes for -preserving sal-
mon: — first, by putting them in salt for three days, and then
smoking, which takes about twelve days ; secondly, by regularly
salting them down, as you would mackerel; and thirdly, by
boiling and then pickling them in vinegar. The latter method
is unquestionably the most troublesome, but at the same time
t^ae rnost expeditious ; and what can tickle the palate more ex-
quisitely than a choice bit of pickled salmon, with a bottle of
Burgundy to float it to its legitimate home?

•MJ'tj

Y' !>ftV>

24S

ADVENTURER IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

( • -y

CHAPTER XXXIV.

TROUT FISHING.

It carries us into the most wild and beautiful scenery of nature; amongst the moun<
tain lakes and the clear and lovely streams that gush from the higher ranges
of elevated hills, or make their way through the Ci! vities of calcareous rocks.

Sir Humphrey Davy.

Were it not for the salmon, we should pronounce the trout
the most superb game-fish in the world. As the case now stands,
however, we are inclined to believe that he has delighted a greater
number of anglers than any other inhabitant of the "liquid plain."
The characteristics of this charming fish are so well known that
we shall not, on this occasion, enter upon a scientific description
either of his person or habits. In all the particulars of beauty,
of colour and form, of grace, of activity, of intelligence and flavour,
as before intimated, he has but one rival. He always glories in
the coldest and purest of water, and the regions of country to
which he is partial are commonly distinguished for the wildness
of their scenery ; and therefore it is that to the lover of nature
this imperial fish has ever been exceedingly dear. Their
period of spawning is in the autumn, and they recover as early
as February, thereby remaining in season a part of the winter, as
well as the entire spring and summer — though the trouting
months, par excellence, are May and June.

In weight, even wlien fully grown, the diflferent varieties of
trout run from four ounces to sixty pounds, and of the diflferent
distinct species found in the United States and Canada, we are
acquainted only with the following : —

Tlie Coinmorif or Brook and River Trout. — There is hardly a
cold and rocky stream in any of the New England or Northern

TROUT FISIIINa.

249

the moun*
;her rauges
18 rocks.
lEY Davy.

he trout
rtT stands,
a greater
d plain."
)wn that
scriptiou
• beauty,
[ flavour,
flories in
mtry to
wildness
f nature
Their
as early
inter, as
irouting

ieties of
lifferent
we are

lardly a
orthern

States, or among the mountains of the Middle and Southern States,
where this species is not found in abundance. In regard to
weight, they ordinarily vary from three or four ounces to two
pounds ; and in colour, according to the character of the brook
or river which they inhabit. So apparent is the difference of
colour in this family, that, in the several sections of the country
where they are found, they are designated by the names of silver
or fiiU trout, as in Lake George ; and the black trout, as in many
of the smaller lakes or ponds of New England. The only civilized
mode employed by our people for taking them is with the hook;
but, while the scientific angler prefers the artificial fly (with an
appropriate reel,) large numbers are annually destroyed by the
farmers' boys with the common hook and red worm. As to the
heathenish mode of netting this beautiful fish, we can only say that
it merits the most earnest condemnation of every gentleman.
The common trout is proverbially one of the most skittish of all
the finny tribes ; but when he happens to be a little hungry, he
is fearless as the hawk, and at such times often leaps into the air
as if for the purpose of defying the cunning of his human enemies.
According to our experience, the best bait for early spring fishing
is the common worm ; but for June, July, and August, we prefer
the fly. Sometimes, however, a minnow is preferable to either.
The great charm of fly fishing for trout is derived from the fact
that you then see the movement of your fish, and if you are not
an expert hand, tiit* chances are that you will capture but one
out of the hundred that may rise to your hook. You can sel-
dom save a trout unless you strike the very instant that he leaps.
But, even after this, a deal of care is required to land him in safety.
If he is a half-pounder, you may pull him out directly ; but if
larger than that, after fairly hooking him, you should play him
with your whole line, which, when well done, is a feat full of
poetry. The swiftness with which a trout can dai-t from his
hiding-place after a fly is ti uly astonishing-; and we never see one
perform this operation without feeling an indescribable thrill
quivering through our frame. The fact that this is the only fisli
in the world which nature has designated by a row of scarlet spota
along the sides, would seem to imply that she deemed it the per-

250

ADVEXTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORXn AlIEKICA.

faction of her finny creations, and had, therefore, fixed upon it
this distinguishing mark of her skill.

Tlie Salmon Trout. — Under this head we include all those fish
of the trout genus which are found only in those lakes of our
country having no connection whatever with the sea. The fish
now under consideration resembles, in its general appearance, the
legitimate salmon, but is totally unlike it in several particulars.
The salmon trout, for example, varies in weight from three to
sixty pounds; and if every body is to be believed, they have been
taken in some of our waters weighing upwards of one hundred
poimds. They are of much less value than the real salmon as an
article of food, there being nothing at all delicate in the texture
or flavour of a mammoth fish. As sporting fish, too, they are of
little value, for they love the gloom of deep water, and are not
distinguished for their activity. The names, besides its own, by
which this fish is recognized, are the lake trout and the
Mackinaw trout ; and, by many people who ought to know better,
they are often confounded with the genuine salmon. As is the
case with tlie salmon, they are seldom or never fonr.d in any of
our rivers, but chiefly in the lakes of the northern and northwestern
States of the Union, being found in the greatest numbers at the
Straits of Mackinaw, in Lake Superior, Lake George, and the
other lakes of the Emf)ire State, and in Moosehead Lake.

The Sea Trout. — Our idea of this fish is that it is quite at home
in the ** deep, deep sea," but rather partial to the brackish waters
of large rivers and the inland bays of the American coast. And
also that they vary in weight from three to fifteen pounds, and
ought to be highly prized as a game-fish, their flesh being of a
rosy hue, and excellent, and their courage and 'Strength allied to
those of their more aristocratic cousin — the salmon. Like the
salmon and common trout, too, they scorn the more common baits
of the fisherman, and possess a decided taste for the fly, albeit
thousands of them f\re taken with the shrimp and minnow. The
waters where they mostly abound are those of the lower St.
Lawrence and its tributaries, the bay of Cape Cod, all along the
southern shore of Barnstable, the entire shore of Martha's
Vineyard, and the bays Delaware and Chesapeake. So much

TROUT FISIIISG.

2^1

I upon it

ose fish

of our

'he fish

[nee, the

iculars.

[three to

ve beeu

mndred

on as an

texture

ey are of

are not

own, by

and the

w better,

is is the

n any of

liwestem

rs at the

and the

at home
h waters
t. And
nds, and
sing of a
allied to
Like the
ion baits
y, albeit
wr. The
)wer St.
long the
Martha's
o much

for the varieties of trout with which we are personally ac-
quainted.

It now behoves us to record some of our experience in trout fish-
ing, but we have already published in our books of travel, and
elsewhere, quite as many Jish stories as will be readily believed.
We shall, therefore, content ourselves, on this occasion, with a
brief description of our favourite localities.

As a matter of course, the first place that we mention in this
connection is Sault St. Marie, which, for many reasons, is an ex-
ceedingly attractive place. In the first place, it is the outlet to
Lake Superior, the largest body of fresh water on the globe. It
is also the western terminating point of the lake navigation of
the north. From the earliest periods of our history to the present
time, it hi^s been, as it were, the starting-place for all the fur ex-
peditions by land which have ever penetrated the immense wilder-
ness bordering on Hudson's Bay and the Arctic ocean. The fall
of the river St. Marie at the spot called the Sault, is nearly twenty,
five feet within the space of half a mile, so that from a canoe at
the foot of the rapid it presents the appearance of a wall of foam.
The width of it is reputed to be one mile, and on the British
side are several beautiful islands, covered with hemlock, spruce,
and pine, pleasingly intermingled with birch. The bed of the
river at this point consists chiefly of coloured sand-stones, the
depth varies from ten to perhaps one hundred feet, and the water
is perpetually cold, and as clear as it is possible for any element
to be. But what makes the Sault particularly attractive to the
angler, is the fact that the common trout is found here in good
condition throughout the year. They are taken with the fiy, and
from boats anchored in the more shallow places of the river, as
well as from the shore. We have known two fishermen to spend
an entire day in a single reef, or at one anchorage, and, in spite
of sunlight and east winds, have known them to capture more
than a cart load of the spotted beauties, varying in weight from
half a pound to three and four. How it is that the fish of this
region always appear to be in season has never been explained
but we should imagine that either they have no particular time
for spawning, or that each season brings with it a variety peculiar

252 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA,

to itself. Those of the present day who visit Sault St. !Marie for
the purpose of throwing the fly, ought to be fully prepared with
tackle, and that of the best quality. With regard to the creature
comforts obtainable in the village of Sault St. Marie, they will be
as well supplied as in any other place of the same size equally
remote from the civilized centre of the world. And when the
pleasures of trout fishing begin to subside they can relieve the
inonotony of a sojourn here by visiting the Indians in their wig-
wams, and seeing them capture (with nets, in the pure white foam)
the beautiful white fish ; they may also with little difficulty visit
the copper mines of Lake Superior, or, if they would do their
country service (provided they are Americana,) they may indite
long letters to members of Congress on the great necessity
of a ship canal around the falls or rapids of St. Mary.

And now for the island of Mackinaw. For an elaborate des-
cription of this spot we refer our readers to any of the numerous
travellers who have publislied its praises, not forgetting, by way
of being impartial, an account from our own pen already before
the public. The time is rapidly approaching, we believe, when
this island will be universally considered one of the most health-
ful, interesting, convenient, and fashionable watering-places in the
whole country. And the naturalists, not to say the angler, will
find here the celebrated IMackinaw trout in its greatest perfection.
And when the Detroit and Chicago steamer runs into the little
crescent harbour of the island for the purpose of landing the
traveller, and he discovers among the people on the dock some
half-dozen wheelbarrows laden with fish four feet long and weigh-
ing fifty or sixty pounds, he must not be alarmed at finding
those fish to be Mackinaw trout, and not sturgeon, as he might
at first have imagined. The truth is, the very size of these fish
is an objection to them, for, as they have to be taken in deep
water, and with a large cord, there is far more of manual labour
than sport in taking them. But when one of these monsters
happens to stray towards the shore where the water is not over
fifty feet, it is then, through the marvellously clear water, ex-
ceedingly pleasant to watch their movements as they swim about
over the beds of pure white sand. As before intimated, thg

tarie for
led with
^creature
will be
equally
Hien the
ieve the
^eir wis-
te foam)
ilty visit
do their
ly indite
lece.ssity

rate des-
lumerouH
, by way
ly before
ve, when
it health-
ces iu the
gler, will
3rfoction.
the little
ding the
3ck some
d weigh-
I finding
ie might
hese fish
in deep
il labour
nonsters
not over
ater, ex-
m about
ted, thQ

TROUT FISHIKa.

253

Mackinaw trout is far inferior to the common trout as an article
of food, and to the white tish almost infinitely so.

The Mackinaw trout (us is the case with all salmon trout) is
in fine condition throughout the winter months; and the Imlians
are very fond of taking them through the ice. Their manner of
proceeding is to make a large hole in the ice, over which they
erect a kind of wigwam, so as to keep out the light; and, station-
ing themselves above the hole, they lure the trout from the bottom
by an artificial bait, and when he comes sufiiciently near pick him
out with a spear: and they are also taken with a hook. The
voraciousness of the Mackinaw trout at this season is said to be
astonishing ; and it is recorded of a Canadian fisherman, that,
having lost all his artificial bait by being bitten to pieces,
he finally resorted to a large jackknife attached to a hook which
he had in his pocket, and which was swallowed by a thirty pound
fish. Another anecdote that we have heard touching this mode
of winter fishing, is as follows, an 1 show^* the danger with which
it is sometimes attended. An Indian fisher aan, of renown
among the tribes of Lake Superior, while fisluEv, ( uthis lake in the
manner above mentioned, at a considoral/! > distance fvov hhe shore,
was once detached with a cake of ice -vonL the shore and carried
into the lake by the wind, and was never heard of more. Such a
death as he must have met with it would be difiicult to describe.

But we cannot leave Mackinaw without making a pai^sin ;
allusion to the fish whose Indian namo is ciscovet. It is a haiid-
some fish, unquestionably of the trout family, a bold biter, richly
flavoured, and very beautiful both in symmetry and colour.
They are not very abundant, and are altogether the greatest fishy
delicacy in this region, excepting the white fish. They weigh
from five to ten pounds, ..»^ I are remarkable for their fatness.
At the Island of Mackinaw the common trout is not found at all,
but in all the streams upon the main shora of Lake Michigan,
which is only a Fihorl. distance off, they are very abundant and
very large.

Another trouting region whose praises we are disposed to sing,
is that of northern New York, lying between Lake George and
Long Lake. All the running waters of this section of couutiy

254

ADVENTURES IX THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

are abuDiantly "iipplied with common trout, and all the lakes
(which are numerous) with salmon trout. The scenery every-
where is of the wildest and most imposing character. The two
brancl.es of the noble Hudson here take their rise, and almost every
rood of their serpentine courses abounds in apid and deep pools,
yielding common trout of the largest size. But the angler who
visits this region must not expect to be feasted with the fashion-
able delicacies of the land, or spend his nightsin luxuriantly fur-
nished rooms; he must be a lover of salt pork, and well acquaint-
ed with the yielding qualities of a pine floor. To those of our
readers who would become bettpr acquainted with the region
alluded to, we would recommend the interesting descriptions of
Charles F. Hoffman, Esq., and the spirited, though somewhat
fantastic ones of J. T. Hoadley, Esq.

In the "times of old" we have enjoyed ourselves exceedingly
in making piscatorial pilgrimages among the Catskill and Shan-
daken Mountains, but their wilderness glory is rapidly departing.
"VVe can now only recommend this region as abounding in
beautiful as well as magnificent scenery. Now, while we think
of it, however, we have one little incident to record connected
with Shew's Lake, which beautifies the summit of one of the
Catskills. Having once caught a large number of small common
trout in a stream that ran out of this lake, we conceived the idea
that the lake itself must of necessity contain a large number of
full-grown fish of the same species. "With this idea in view, we
obtained the services of a mountaineer named Hummel, and tried
our luck at the lake, by the light of the moon, with set lines and
live minnows. During the night we caught no less than forty-
two trout, averaging in weight over a pound apiece. We were
of course greatly elated at this success; and, having enjoyed
quite a romantic expedition, we subsequently published an
account of the particula "s. A few days after this, a party of
anglers residing in the town of Catskill saw what we had written,
and immediately posted off to Shew's Lake, for the purpose of
spending a night there. They did so, and also fished after the
same manner that we did, and yet did not capture a single trout.
They ui course returned home considerably disgusted, and reported

TROUT FISHING.

255

3edingly
d Shan-
parting,
iding in
ve think
jnnected
Le of the
common
the idea
imber of
;^iew, we
nd tried
ines and
-n forty-
ie were
enjoyed
jhed an
party of
written,
rpose of
fter the
ie trout,
eported

the Jake in question was covered with dead eels, that the water
was alive with lizards, that they saw the glaring eyes of a panther
near their watch-fire, and that loe had been guilty of publishing
a falsehood. It now becomes us to deny, and in the most ex-
pressive tone, this rough impeachment, although we fully confess
that there still hangs a mystery over our piscatorial good fortune.

If the anglers of New York city are to be believed, there is no
region in the world like Long Island for common trout. We
are informed, however, that the fish are here penned up in ponds,
and that a stipulated sum per head has to be paid for all the fish
ca-ptured. "With this kind of business we have never had any
patience, and we shall therefore refrain from commenting upon
the exploits or trespassing upon the exclusive privileges of the
cockney anglers of the empire city.

But another trouting region, of which we can safely speak in
the most flattering terms, is that watered by the two principal
tributaries of the river Thames, in Connecticut, viz., the Yantic
and the Quinnebaug. It is, in our opinion, more nearly allied
to that portion of England made famous by Walton in his
Complete Angler, than any other in the United States. The
country is generally highly cultivrtted, but along nearly all its
very beautiful streams Nature has been permitted to have her
own way, and the dark pools are everywhere overshadowed
by the foliage of overhanging trees. Excepting in the immediate
vicinity of the factories, trout are quite abundant, and the anglers
are generally worthy members of the gentle brotherhood. When
the angler is overtaken by night, he never finds himself at a loss
for a place to sleep ; and i: has always seemed to us that the beds
of this region have a "smell of lavender." The husbandmen
whom you meet here are intelligent, and their wives neat, affable,
and polite, understanding the art of preparing a fnigal meal to
perfection. Our trouting recollections of this section of New
England are manifold, and we would part with them most un-
willingly. Dearly do we cherish, not only recollections of scenery
and fishing, but of wUd legends and strange characters, bright
skies, poetic conceptions, and &oul-instructing lessons from Nature.
Yes, and the secret of our attachment to the above-mentioned

256

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

streams may be found in the character of these very associations.
What intense enjoyment would not Father Walton have derived
from their wild and superb scenery ! The streams of England
are mostly famous for the bloody battles and sieges which they
witnessed for many centuries, and the turreted castles which they
lave tell us eventful stories of a race of earth-born kings.
But many of the streams of our country, even in these days,
water a virgin wilderness, whose only human denizens are the
poor but noble Indian tribes, who live, and love, and die in their
peaceful valley& ; and the unshorn forests, with the luxuriantly
magnificent mountains, sing a perpetual hymn of praise to One
who is above the sky, and the King of kings.

Of all the New England States, however (albeit much might
be written in praise of Vermont and New Hampshire, with their
glorious Green and White Mountains,) we believe that Maine is
altogether the best supplied. In the head waters of the Penob-
scot and Kennebec, the common trout may be found by the
thousand ; and in Moosehead Lake, as before stated, salmon trout
of -the largest size and in great numbers. This is even a more
perfect wilderness than that in the northern part of New York,
and it is distinguished not only for its superb scenery, but its
fine forests afford an abundance of large game, such as moose,
deer, bears, and wolves, which constitute a most decided attraction
to those disciples of the gentle art who have a little of the fire of
Nimrod in their natures.

Another, and the last region towards which we would direct
the attention of our readers, is that portion of Canada lying on
the north shore of the St. Lawrence. At the mouth of all the
streams here emptying into the great river, and especially at the
mouth of the Saguenay, the sea trout is found in its greatest per-
fect! on. They vary from five to fifteen pounds, and are taken
with the fly. But what makes the fishing for them particularly
interesting is the fact, that when the angler strikes a fish it is
impossible for him to tell, before he has seen his prize, whether
he has captured a salmon trout, a mammoth trout, common trout,
(which are here found in brackish or salt water,) or a magnificent
«almon, glistening in his silver mail.

;,■>/!;■

mi
ev

fciations.
I derived
England
Ich they
ich they
kings,
[se days,
are the
in their
[uriantly
to One

h might
ith their
Maine is
3 Penob-
by the
ion trout
a a more
iw York,
, but its
IS moose,
fctraction
ie fire of

d direct
lying on
f all the
yat the
test per-
'6 taken
iicularly
iah it is
whether
n trout,
;nificent

BASSE FISHIXG.

i" ,:-!r.- ^

CHAPTER XXXY.

BASSE FISHING.

•* We delight, as all the world has long well known, in every kind of fishing,
from the whale to the minnow." — Christopher North.

The beautif. ^ fish now chosen for our *' subject theme" is a
genuine naiive American, and ranks high among the game fish
of the country. When fully grown, he is commonly about fif-
teen inches long, two inches in thickness, and some five inches
broad, weighing perhaps five or six pounds. He belongs to the
perch family, has a thick oval head, a swallow tail, sharp teeth,
and small scales. In colour, he is deep black along the back and
sides, growing lighter and somewhat yellowish towards the belly.
He has a large mouth, and is a bold biter, feeds upon minnows and
insects, is strong and active, and, when in season, possesses a fine
flavour. He spawns in the spring, recovers in July, and is in
his prime in fcieptember.

The black basse is peculiarly a Western fish, and is not known
in any of the rivers which connect immediately with the Atlantic
Ocean. They are found in great abundance ii the upper Mis-
sissippi and its tributaries, in all the gi-eat lakes excepting Su-
perior, in the upper St. Lawrence, in Lake Champlain and Lake
George, and nearly all the smaller lakes of New York. In por-
tions of the last-named state they are called the Oswego basse,
in the southwest the black perch, and in the northwest, where
they are most abundant, the black basse. In nearly all the
waters where they abound has it been our good fortune to angle
for the fish, und his very name is associated with much of the
most beautiful scenery in the land. Our own experience, how-
ever, in basse fishing is chiefly identified with Lake George, Lako

ids

ADVENTURES IN" THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

Erie, Lake Michigan, and the upper Mississippi, and to these
waters alone is it our purpose to devote a few para,graphs.

And, first, as to the beautiful " Ho- icon" of the North. Em-
bosomed as it is among the wildest of mountains, and rivalling,
as do its waters, the blue of heaven, it is indeed all that could
be desired, and in every particular worthy of i fame. Although
this lake is distinguished for the number and variety of its trout,
I am inclined to believe that the black basse found here afford
the anglo* t " greatest amount of sport. They are taken during
the entire summer, and by almost as great a variety of methods
as there are anglers ; trolling with a minnow, however, and fish-
ing with a gaudy fly from the numerous islands in the lake, are
unquestionably the two most successful methods. As before
intimated, the basso is a veiy active fish, and, excepting the
salmon, we know of none that perform, when hooked, such des-
perate leaps out of the water. They commonly frequent the
immediate vicinity of the shores, especially those that are rocky,
and are seldom taken where the water is more than twenty feet
deep. They commonly lie close to the bottom, rise to the min-
now or fly quite as quickly as the trout, and are not as easily
frightened by the human form.

The late William Caldwell, who owned an extensive estate at
thb southern extremity of Lake George, was the gentleman who
first introduced us to the basse of the said lake, and we shall ever
remember him as one of the most accomplished and gentlemanly
anglers we have ever known. He was partial to the trolling
method of fishing, however, and the manner in which he per-
formed a piscatorial expedition was somewhat unique and
romantic. His right hand man on all occasions was a worthy
mountaineer, who lived in the vicinity of his mansion, and
whose principal business was to take care of the angler's boat,
and row him over the lake. For many years did this agreeable
connection exist between Mr. Caldwell and his boatman, and,
when their fishing days were over, was happily terminated by
the deeding of a handsome farm to the latter by his munificent
employer. But we intended to describe one of Mr. Caldwell's
excursions.

;o these
s.

Em-
ivalling,
it could
.Itliough
ts trout,
re afford
n during
methods
and fish-
lake, are
^ before
)ting the
such des-
uent the
ire rocky,
'^enty feet
the min-
; as easily

> estate at
>man who
shall ever
itlemanly
e trolling
1 he per-
ique and
a worthy
siou, and
ler'a boat,
agreeable
nan, and,
inated by
lunificent
[Caldwell's

BASSE FISHING.

259

It is a July morning, and our venerable angler, with his boat-
man, has embarked in his feathery skiff. The lake is thirty-
three miles long, and it is his intention to perform its entire cir-
cuit, thereby voyaging at least seventy miles. He purposes to be
absent about a week, and having no less than half a dozen places
on the lake shore where he can find a night's lodging, he is
in no danger of being compelled to camp out. His liiUe
vessel is abundantly supplied with fishing tuckle, as well as
the substantials of life, and some of its liquid luxuries. He
and Care have parted company, and his heart is now wholly
open to the influences of nature, and therefore buoyant as the
boat which bears him over the translucent waters. The first
day his luck is bad, and he tarries at a certain point for the
purpose of witnessing the concluding scene of a deer hunt, and
hearing the successful hunter expatiate upon his exploits and the
quality of his hoimds. On the second day the wind is from the
south, and he secures no less than twenty of the finest basse in
the lake. On the third day he also has good luck, but iy greatly
annoyed by thunder showers, and must content himself with one
of the late magazines which he has brought along for such emer-
gencies. The fifth and sixth days he has some good fishing, and
spends them at Garfield's landing (for the reader must know
that there is a tiny steamboat on Lake George,) where he has
an opportunity of meetirtg a brotherhood of anglers, who are
baiting for the salmon trout ; and the seventh day he probably
spends quietly at Lyman's Tavern, in the companionship of an
intelligent landscape painter (spending the summer there,) arriv-
ing at home on the following morning.

As to our own experience in regard to basse fishing in Lake
George, we remember one incident in particular which illustrates
an interesting truth in natural history. We were on a trouting
expedition, and happened to reach the lake early in June, before
the basse were in season, and we were stopping with our friend
Mr. Lyman, of Lyman's Point. The idea having occurred to us
of spearing a few fish by torchlight, we becured the services of
an experienced fisherman, and, with a boat well supplied with
fat pine, we launched ourselves on the quiet waters of the lake

26a

AD^TlNTtJRES IN THE WILDS OP NOETH AMERICA.

•f.

about an hotir after sundown. Basse were very abundant, and
we succeeded in killing some half dozen of a large size. We
found them exceedingly tame, and noticed, when we approached,
that they were invariably alone, occupying the centre of a cir-
cular and sandy place among the rocks and stones. We inquired
the cause of this, and were told that tlu!! basse were casting their
Bpawn, and ^hat the circular places were, the beds where the
young were [trotected. On hearing thi^, our cor.sc'ence was
somewhat tro bled by what we had been d<\I.ig, but ive resolved
to take one more fish and then go home. We now came to a large
bed, around the (idge of wliich we discovered a number of Vbiy
small fish, and over the centre of the bed a very large and hand-
some basse was hovering. Wo darted our sju;ar, and only
wounded the poor fish. Our c(>mpar>ion then told us, that if we
"•ii'ould go away for fifteen minutes, and then lijturn to the same
>?»:?ot, we should have another chance at the same fish. We did
so, an? I the prediction was resized. We threw the spear again,
and i^gain failed in killing our game, though we succeeded in nearly
catting the fish in two pieces. " You will have the creature yet ;
let us go away again," said my companion. We did so, and lo ! to
our utter astonishment, we again saw the fish, all mutilated and
torn, still hovering over its tender offspring ! To relieve it of its
pain, we darted the spear once more, and the basse lay in our boat
quite dead; and we returned to our lodgings on that night a
decidedly unhappy man. We felt, with the ancient mariner,
that we "had done a Jiellish deed," and most bitterly did we
repent our folly. Ever since that time have we felt a desire to
atone for our wickedness, and we trust that the shade of Izaak
Walton will receive our humble confession as an atonement.
The basse that we took on the night in question, owing to their
being out of season, were not fit to eat, and we had not even the
plea of palatable food to ofier. The maternal afiection of that
black basse for its helpless offspring, which it protected even
unto death, has ever seemed to us in strict keeping with the
loveliness and holiness of universal nature.

And now with regard to Lake Erie. We know not of a sin-
gle prominent river emptying into this lake in which the black

BASSE FISHING.

261

nt, and
le. We
'oached,
if a cir-
Inquired
ig their
ere the
ce was
[resolved
a large
J' of Vbiy
id hand-
id only
lat if we
;lie same
We did
r again,
^n nearly
iure yet;
idlo! to
ated and
it of its
our boat
night a
mariner,
did we
desire to
of Izaak
mement.
to their
)ven the
of that
ed even
ith the

)f a sin-
16 black

basse is not found in considerable numbers. The sport which
they yield to the disciples of Walton at the eastern extremity of
the lake, has been described by George W. Clinton, Esq., of
Buffalo, in a series of piscatorial letters published in the journals
of that city; and, as we would not interfere with him while
throwing the fly in his company on the . same stream, neither
will we trespass upon that literary ground which he has so
handsomely made hia own. When, however, we hear the green
waves of Lake Erie washing its western shores, we feel that we
have a right to be heard, for in that region, when it was for the
most part a lonely wilderness, did we first behold the light of
this beautiful world. With the windings of the Sandusky, the
Maumee, the Huron, and the Detroit rivers, we are quite familiar,
and we know that they all yield an abundance of black basse;
but with the river Kaisin, we are as well acquainted as a child
could be with its mother's bosom. Upon this stream was the
home of our boyhood, and at the bare mention of its name, un-
numbered recollections flit across the mind, which to our hearts
are inexpressibly dear.

Even when a mere boy we esteemed the black basse as a peer
among his fellows, and never can we forget our first prize. We
had seated ourself at the foot of an old sycamore, directly
on the margin of the river Baisin, and among its serpent-like
roots we were fishing for a number of tiny rock basse that we
had chanced tC' discover there. We baited with a worm, and
while doing our utmost to capture a two-ounce fish, we were
suddenly frightened by the appearance of a black basse, which
took our hook, and was soon dangling in the top a neighbouring
bush. Our delight at this unexpected exploit was unbounded,
and, after bothering our friends with an account of it until the
night was far spent, we retired to bed, and in our dreams
caught the same poor fish over and over again until morning.
From that day to this, rivers and fish have haunted us like a
passion.

Like the trout, the black basse seems to be partial to the more
romantic and poetical places in the rivers which they frequent.
On the river Kaisin, for example, we used to enjoy the rarest of

262

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

sport at an old and partly dilapidated mill-dam, whicli was
covered with moss, and at the foot of which were some of the
nicest " deep holes" imaginable. Wherever the timbers of the
dam formed a " loop-hole of retreat," there we were always sure
of finding a basse. And we also remember an old mill, in whose
shado y recesses, far down among the foundation timbers, the
basse df ii^ijhted to congregate, and where we were wont to spend
many of o. ." Saturday afternoons; but our favourite expeditions
were those which occupied entire days, and led us along
the banks of the Raisin, in the vicinity of its mouth, and far
beyond the hearing of the mill-wheel or the clink of the
blacksmith's anvil. At such times, the discovery of old sunken
logs was all that we cared for, for we knew that the basse
delighted to spend the noontide hours in their shadow. And
when we could borrow a canoe, and obtain a foothold on the
extreme point of a wooded island, so as to angle in the deep
dark holes, we seldom failed in realizing all the enjoyment
that we anticipated. And, if we chanced to come across a party
of fishermen drawing the seine, we were sure to forget our pro-
mise to our parents to return home before sundown, and, far too
often for a good boy, did we remain with them even until
the moon had taken her station in the sky. To count the fish
thus captured, and to hear the strange adventures and exploits
talked over by these fishermen, was indeed a delightful species
of vagabondizing ; and we usually avoided a very severe scolding
by returning home " with one of the largest basse ever caught
in the river," which we may have taken with the hook or pur-
chased of the fishermen. But we are talking of the " times of
the days of old," and as we remember that the glories of the
Kiver Kaisin, in regard to its scenery and its fish, are for ever
departed, we hasten to other waters.

In fancy we have now crossed the peninsula of Michigan, or
rather compassed it by means of the splendid steamers which
navigate the waters of Huron and Michigan, and we are now
on the banks of the river St. Joseph. This is a small river, and
imquestionably one of the most beautiful in the western world.
It runs through an exceedingly fertile country, abounds in

BASSE FISHINO.

263

ch vras
of the
of the
.ys sure
whose
•ers, the
spend
jeditious
Is along
and far
of the
sunken
basse
And
I on the
ihe deep
joyment
3 a party
our pro-
l, far too
en until
the fish
exploits
I species
scolding
r caught
: or pur-
times of
s of the
for ever

igan, op
s which
ire now
^er, and
world*
mds in

luxuriant islands, is invariably as clear as crystal, and in its
course winding to an uncommon degree. It is navigable for
small steamboats to the village of Niles, fifty miles from
its mouth, and for bateaux somewhere about fifty miles further
towards its soiu-ce. Early in the spring it abounds in the more
common varieties of fresh-water fish, but throughout the
summer and autumn it yields the black basse in the greatest
abundance.

Our piscatorial experience upon the St. Joseph has nob been
very extensive, but we deem it worthy of a passing notice. We
were on our way to the " Far "West," and had been waylaid in the
beautiful village of Niles by one of the fevers of the country.
The physician who attended us was a genuine angler, and we
believe that our speedy recovery was owing almost entirely to
the capital fish stories with which he regaled us during that
uncomfortable period. Be that as it may, one thing we veiy
clearly remember, which is this : that we enjoyed for one after-
noon, some of the most remarkable basse fishing in his company
that we have ever experienced. It was in September, aud we com-
menced fishing at three o'clock. We baited with live minnows,
fished with hand lines, and from a boat which was firmly an-
chored at a bend of the river, and just above a long and very
deep hole, two miles above the village of Niles. Our lines were
upwards of a hundred feet long, and, as the current was very
rapid, the pulling in of our minnows was performed with little
trouble. The ai'n was shining brightly, and the only sounds
which floated in the air were the singing of birds, the rustling
of the forest leaves, and the gentle murmuring of the waters
as they glided along the luxuriant banks of the stream. We
fished a little more than two hours, but in that time we caught
no less than ninety-two basse, a dozen of which weighed over
five pounds, and the great majority not less than two pounds. Such
remarkable luck had never been heard of before in that vicinity,
and of course for several days thereafter the river was covered with
boats; but, & .range to say, nearly all the anglers returned home
disappointed. On a subsequent occasion, the doctor and his
patient made another trial at their favourite spot, but succeeded

■11

fi64

ADYENTUBES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

;ii

in taking only a single fish, from which circumstance we came
to the conclusion that we had actually cleared that portion of
the river of its fishy inhabitants.

Before quitting the St. Joseph, we ought to state that its
beautiful tributaries, the Pipe Stone and the Paw-Paw, afibrd a
superior quality of basse, and that no pleasanter fishing-ground
can anywhere be found than at the mouth of the parent river
itself. With regard to the other principal rivers of western
Michigan, we can only say that the Kalamazoo and the Grand
river are not one whit behind the St. Joseph in any of those
charms which w in the afiections of the angler and the lover of
nature.

"We come now to speak of the upper Mississippi, in whose
translucent water, as before stated, the black basse is found in
" numbers numberless." Not only do they abound in the river
itself and its noble tributaries, but also in the lakes of the entire
region. The only people who angle for them, however, are the
travellers who occasionally penetrate into this beautiful wilder-
ness of the North-west. Generally speaking the basse, as well as
all other kinds of fish, are taken by the Indians with a wooden
wpear, and more to satisfy hunger than to enjoy the sport. The
angler who would cast a fly above Fort Snelling must expect to
spend his nights in an Indian lodge instead of a white-washed
cottage, to repose upon a bear-skin instead of a bed (such as
Walton loved) which " smells of lavender," and to hear the howl
of the wolf instead of a " milk-maid's song." . . ,.

:M'i

|e oame
bion of

chat its
ifford a
[■ground
jiiit river
reetem
Grand
)f those
lover of

whose
bund in
;he river
le entire
are the
I wilder-
3 well as
, wooden
rt. The
ixpect to
)-washed
(such as
bhe howl

BOCK FISHIKQ.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

ROCK FISHING.

Of recreations, ;,iiere is none

So free as fishing is alone;

All other pastimes do no less
' i\ Tliun mind and body both possess:

..'...• My hunds alone my work can do, >

So I can fish and study too.

IsAAK Walton.

We consider the rock-fish, or striped basse, one of the finest
game fish to be found in American waters. From all that we can
learn, it is peculiar to this country, and to particular sections, not
being found farther north than Maine, nor farther south than the
Carolinas, where it is known as the rock-fish. It varies in
weight from six ounces to one hundred pounds; and though
a native of the ocean, it spends a portion of every year in the
fresh water rivers — yet it seems to be partial to the mouths of
our larger estuaries. Our naturalists have pronounced it a member
of the 2)erch family, and doubtless with scientific propriety;
but we have seen a basse that would outweigh at least four
score of the largest perch found in the country. The rock is a
thick-set and solid fish, having a strong bony mouth, and sharp
teeth. In colour, it varies frojii a deep green on the back to a
rich silvery hue on the belly, and its scales are large and of a
metallic lustre. But the distinguishing feature of this fish
consists in the striped appearance of its body. Running from
the head nearly to the tail, there are no less than eight regularly
marked lines, which in the healthy fish are of a deep black. Its
€iyes are white, head rather long, and the under jaw protnidea

2G6

ADVENTURES lil THE WILDS OP NOHTU AMERICA.

I' 4

\>eyond the upper one, somewhat after tho manner of the pike.
The strength of the basse is equal to t'icit of the salmon, but
in activity it is undoubtedly inferior. . v h an article of food, it
is highly valued, and in all the Atlantic cities invariably com*
mands a good price.

The spawning time of this fish we have not positively ascer-
tained, though we believe it to be in the spring or early summer.
The New York markets are supplied with them throughout the
year, but it is unquestionably true that they are in their prime
in the autumn. The smaller individuals frequent the eddies of
our rivers, while those of a larger growth seem to have a fancy
for the reefs along the coast. On the approach of winter, they
do not strike for the deep water, but find a residence in the bays
and still arms of the sea, where they remain until the following
spring. They begin to take the hook in April, and, generally
speaking, afford the angler any quantity of sport until the
middle of November. For the smaller fish at the North, the
shrimp and minnow are the most successful baits; and for the
larger individuals nothing can be better than the skin of an eel,
neatly fastened upon a squid. The river fisherman requires a
regular equipment of salmon tackle, while he who would capture
the monsters of the ocean only needs a couple of stout Kirby
hooks, a small sinker, a very long and heavy line, a gaff hook,
and a surf boat. But those who capture the basse for lucrative
purposes resort to the following more effectual methods —
first by using set lines, and secondly by the employment of
gill-nets and the seine. The sport of taking a twenty-pound
basse in a convenient river is allied to that of capturing a salmon,
but as the former is not a very skittish fish, the difficulties are
not so great. As before intimated, all our Atlantic rivers, from
the Penobscot to the Savannah, are regularly visited by the
basse ; but we are inclined to believe that they are found in the
greatest abundance and perfection along the shores of Connecticut,
Bhode Island, Massachusetts, and Maine. At any rate, our own
experience has been confined to this region; and though we
remember with unfeigned pleasure our success in taking the
larger varieties along the shores of Martha's Vineyard, at Mon-

IttOCK FISHING.

267

[e pike.

jon, but

food, it

ly com*

!y ascer-

ummer.

out the

[r prime

dclies of

a fancy

;er, they

the bays

jllowinff

generally

ntil the

>rth, the

for the

)f an eel,

squires a

i capture

it Kirby

aff hook,

hicrative

ethods —

nnent of

ty-pound

% salmon,

ilties are

ers, from

1 by the

id in the

necticut,

our own

ough we

king the

at Mon-

tauk Point, and in the vicinity of Watch Hill, yet wo are dis-
posed to yield the palm to Black Island. This out-of-the-way
spot of the green earth belongs to Ehode laland, coniprines a
whole county of that state, and lies about forty miles from the
main shore. It is nine miles in length, and varies in width from
three to four miles. It is quite hilly, with an occasional rocky i
shore, contains a number of salt-water ponds, and is covered with
a scanty growth of trees and other vegetation. The male inha-
bitants, numbering only a few hundred souls, are devoted
exclusively to the fishing business, and they are as amiable and
honest at heart, as they are rude and isolated in their manner
of life. Block Island sailors frequently find their way to the
remotest quarters of the globe, though few who were born upon
the island ever become entirely weaned from its ocoan-gii-t shores.
The Block Island fishermen build their own smacks, and as these
are about the only things they do manufacture, they have acquired
remarkable skill in building swift vessels, which are also dis-
tinguished for their strength and safety.

The pleasantest time to kill basse at Block Island is in the
month of October, and immediately after a severe gale, for then
it is that the larger fish seek a sheltering place between the reefe
and the shore. And if the angler would be certain of success, he
ought to be upon the water before sunrise, or at the break of
day. He must have only one companion, a stalwart Block Is-
lander;, whose duty it shall be to steady the boat, as she dashes
along upon the restless bosom of the ground swell, so that, with
his legs carefully braced, he can throw his squid to a great
distance, instead of being thrown himself into the sea. And if an
occasional shark should stray into the vicinity of his boat, he
must not sutler himself to be alarmed, for a single discharge
from the fisherman's pistol (which he usually carries for that
purpose) will be sure to frighten the monster out of his way.
Gulls without number, large and small, of a dark grey and a
pure white, will be sure to fly screaming above his head, and
their wild chorus will mingle well with the monotonous war of
the waves as they sweep upon the shore. The fatigue attendant
upon this mode of fishing is uncommonly great; and if the anglec

268

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

sKould happen to strike a forty-pounder, he will be perfectly
satisfied with that single prize; but if his luck should lie among
the smaller varieties, he ought to be content with about half a
dozen specimens, weighing from ten to fifteen pounds, which
would probably be the result of the morning's expedition. On
returning to the shore, the angler will find himself in a most
impatient mood for breakfast ; but with a view of enhancing the
anticipated enjoyment, he should first throw aside his clothes
and make a number of plunges in the pure white surf, which
will cause him to feel as strong and supple as a leopard.

We did think of commenting upon Block Island as a most
fitting place to study the mighty ocean, for the waves which wash
its shores come from the four quarters of the globe. It so hap-
pens, however, that we have just been reading a passage in an
admirable little volume entitled " The Owl Creek Letters** (the
author is a man after our own heart,) which was written at Block
Island, and we are sure the passage in question would " take the
wind out of any sail" that our pen might produce. The passage
alluded to is as follows : —

"Men speak of our 'mother the earth.' But I never could appre-
ciate the metaphor. A hard mother is old Terra. She refuses us
food, save when compelled by hard struggling with her, and then
yields it reluctantly. She deceives us too often, and finally takes
us, wlien worn and weary, only by the diflScult digging of a grave.

" But the ocean is mother-like, singing songs to us continually,
and telling a thousand legends to our baby^ars. She casts up toys
to us on every shore, bright shells and pebbles. (What else do
we live for?) True, maniac as she is, she sometimes raves madly
and hurls her chi^ ""ren from her arms, but see how instantly she
clasps them again olosOj ciofaC to her heaving bosom, and how
calmly and quietly they sleep there — as she sings to them — ^nor
wake again to sorrow."

As to basse fishing in the vicinity of New York, where scien-
tific anglers are abundant, it afibrds us pleasure to give our
readers the following account, written at our request by G. C.
Scott, Esq., who is distinguished for his love and practical
knowledge of the gentle art.

)n.

erfectly

among

t half a

which

a most

cingthe

clothes

which

s a most
ich wash
t so hap-
ige in an
ers" (the
at Block
* take the
le passage

lid appre-
refuses us
and then
ally takes
fa grave,
itinually,
bs up toys
%t else do
^es madly
antly she
and how
lem — nor

ere scien-
give our
by G. 0.
practical

ROCK FISHINQ.

2G9

. " The weather and the tide are in our favour, and the moon
all right — for this planet, you must know, always gives the basse
an excellent appetite and great activity. Speaking of its in-
fluence upon the appetite of fish, reminds me that those in the
waters near the ocean bite best when the moon is new; whilst
salt water fish which are up the creeks and near to fresh water,
are killed in the greatest number during high tides, and imme-
diately after a hard ' nor'-easter,' when the wind has shifted to
the noiiih-west. You may prove these facts without going half
a dozen miles from old Gotham, and I have always noticed that
it is better fishing in *the Kills* and at the hedges of Newark Bay,
t'4 well as at those in the lower part of the bay of !New York,
when the tide is high; while the fishing at King's Bridge and
the mouth of Spiting Devil is always best at extreme low tides.
",^ we are out after basse, suppose we * make a day of it,' and
first • / the bridge at Haerlem Dam. Being an angler yourself,
you know of course that much depends upon bait, and we will
want to use the best. As it is the month of August, we will
purchase a few shedder crabs in the market; and if we find
shrimp necessaiy, we can procure enough of them at either of
the fishing-grounds. During the spring, I use shad rocs for basse
bait ; but in summer, and until the first of October, I prefer
shedder crabs; after that, I use shrimp and soft-shell clams.
Some anglers prefer shrimp at all seasons, as it is well known
that small basse are more generally taken with them; but for
my part, give me shedder crabs enough, and I will agree to forego
the use of all other kinds of bait for basse. Next, you may want
to know how to rig your tackle. Where we are going to-day,
you want nothing but a good basse rod, reel, and float, with a
single gut leader, to which you fasten a hook and attach it to
the line one-third of its length from the hook. Use your float
only when the tide runs slowly, for bottom fishing is the best for
large fish, unless you troll for them when you use a squid and
fish in the Bronx with regular trolling tackle, of sufficient strength
to land a fish weighing one hundred and fifty pounds, for they
are sometimes caught there of thai; weight, but generally from
thirty to eighty pounds.

270

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

" Well, having arrived at King's Bridge, and as it is about ebb
tide, we will first see ■\'^hat we can kill from the east bridge. I
like bridge fishing, for it is so fine to pay out line from ; and
then in striking a fish thirty yards off, there is so much sport in
playing him, and your being such a distance above the water, you
generally fasten him at the first bite. Reel off! reel off! you
have struck him ! There ! give him play, but feel his weight and
let him contend for every inch of line that you give him, or ho
will take the whole of it without exhausting himself, and you
will lose him. Keep him in slack water, and after playing him
until you kill him, land him on the shore, for he is too heavy to
risk your tackle in raising him to the bridge. And now, having
fished out the last of the ebb and the turn, until the tide runs
too fast to use a float, just step into this punt and Wc ill anchor
out near the edge of the current, by the first island bolow the
mill, and fish in the current without the float, until the tide turns,
when we will make for the mouth of the Spiting Devil, and fish
fifty rods below it in the Hudson.

" Now, my friend, this day's sport may be considered a fair
criterion for these grounds. We have taken between twenty and
thirty basse, but there is only one that weighs over five pounds,
and their average weight will not vary much from half that.
To-night we will troll in the Bronx, for if the sky be clear, the
basse will bite sooner at a squid ' by the light of the moon' than
in the day-time; and there is very little use in stopping to try
M'Comb's dam, as the sport will not be fii-st-rate there until the
Croton acqueduct is finished and the coffer dam is torn away,
so that the fish may have a clear run and unobstructed passage
between the East and Hudson rivers. It is supposed that this
will be effected next year, when M'Corab's dam will retrieve its
lost honours, and furnish one of the best places for sport in this
vicinity to those who prefer bridge fishing.

" Having given you a taste of the sport on the waters bound-
ing this island on the north and east, let us to-day fasten our
punt to the lower hedges of New York bay, and try the difference,
between 'bottom fishing,' and that 'with the float.' I will re-
mark, in passing, that it is better to anchor your punt about a

bout et)b

idge. I

om; and

1 sport in

ater, you

off! you

eight and

im, or lie

and you

lying iiim

heavy to

>w, having

I tide runs

ill anchor

holow the

tide turns,

Q, and jfish

ered a fair
iwenty and
ve pounds,
half that.
I clear, the
noon' than
>ing to try
e until the
torn away,
;ed passage
i that this
retrieve its
)ort in this

ers bound-
fasten our
e difference
I will re-
[it about a

ROCK FISHING.

271

jfod above the hedge and fish towards the hedge without a float,
than to fasten your boat to the hedge, as commonly practised,
and fish with a float; for you will notice that while you, in the
old way, are continually reeling up and making casts, I am feel-
ing for them with a moving bait towards the bottom, and as near
the hedge as I can venture without getting fast. And then when
I strike, I am sure to fasten them as they turn from me for the
shelter of the hedge. I can also better play my bait without
the danger of too much slack. You will see also that I kill the
largest fish.

" Let us now up anchor and away for the Kills and to the reef
opposite Port Richmond. Here the fish are about as large as
those at the hedges we just left. The tide is nearly full, and we
will fish without the float until it is about to turn, when we will
move over to the Jersey shore, about fifty rods below the mouth
of Newark Bay. Here, as the tide is just in the turn, we can
fish an hour of the ebb with floalis, when it will be best to try
bottom-fishing again. Well, if you are tired of killing young-
lings, varying from one to three pounds, let us put the punt about
and prepare for a beautiful row up to the third, fourth, and fifth
hedges in Newark Bay — trying each one — and we may strike
some fish that will try our tackle. Change your leader for a
heavier one, and let go the anchor, for we are three rods above
the hedge. The water is quite slack, and we will try the float
until the tide ebbs a little more and the curr'jnt becomes more
rapid. There, sir, what think you of that? He feels heavy —
see him spin ! take care of your line or he'll get foul, as I cannot
govern him, and it will be with great difficulty that I keep him
out of the hedge. Wh..t a splendid leap ! I'll see if I can turn him
— here he comes — take the landing net — there! there, we have
him, and I v/ill bet the clianipagnc that he weighs nearer twenty
pounds than ten!

" Thus, my friend, having shown you the principal grounds,
and informed you of the bait and tackle to be used in killing
basse in this vicinity, I hope that ^ ou will not be at loss for
piscatorial sport when trying your skill in the waters of old
Gotham."

272

AD VENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

It is now time that we should say something about basse or
rock fishing in the South. The only streams frequented by thia
fisji, of "^ich we have any personal knowledge, are the I'otomac
and Roanoke, though we have heard many wonderful stories re-
lated of the James River and the Great Pedee. In speaking of
the Potomac we are sorely tempted to indite an episode upon the
beautiful and magnificent sweeps which this river makes after it
leaves the gorge of Harper's Ferry until it loses itself in Chesa-
peake Bay, and also upon its historical associations, among which
the genius of Washington reigns supreme — but it is our duty to
forbear, for we should occupy too much time.

Unquestionably, the finest rock-ground on the Potomac is the
place known as the Little Falls, about four miles above George-
town. At this point the river is only fifty yards wide, and as
the water descends not more than about ten feet in running three
hundred yards, the place might be more appropriately termed a
schute than a fall. The banks on either side are abrupt and
picturesque; the bed of the stream is of solid rock, and below
the rapids are a number of inviting pools, where the water
varies from forty to sixty { ^b in depth. The tides of the ocean
reach no further up the P. iomslc than this spot, and though the
rock-fish are caught in considerable numbers at the Great Falls
(which are ten miles fa'ther up the river, and exceedingly
romantic,) yet they seem to be partial to the Little Falls, where
they are frequently found in very great numbers. They follow
the shad and the herring in the spring, but afford an abundance
of sport from the 1st of May until the 4th of July, though they
are caught in certain portions of the Potomac through the year,
but never above the Great Falls. The rock of this portion of
the Potomac vary in weight from two to eighteen or twenty
pounds, and it is recorded of the anglers and business fishermen,
that they frequently kill no less than five hundred fish in a single
day. The favourite bait in this region is the belly part of the
common herring, as well as the shiner and smelt ; but it is fre-
quently the case that a common yellow flannel fly will commit
sad havoc among the striped beauties, A stout rod, a large
reel and a long line, are important requiidites to the better enjoy-

EOCK FISHING.

273

basse op
1 by thia
I'otomac
iories re-
laking of
upon the
!S after it
n Chesa-
ng whicli
ir duty to

aac is the
B (ieorge-
le, and as
ling tliree
termed a
3rupt and
.nd below
;he water
the ocean
hough the
reat Falls
tceedingly
ills, where
bey follow
ibundance
ough they
I the year,
portion of
or twenty
fishermen,
in a single
3art of the
.t it is fre-
U commit
)d, a large
tter enjoy-

ment of rock-fishing at this point; but as the good standing-
places are few in number, many anglers resort to boat-fishing,
which is here practised with pleasure and profit. Of the many
scientific anglers who visit ^hr. Little Falls during the spring and
summer, the more expert ones come from Washington ; and of
one of these a story is related that he once killed no less than
eighty handsome rock-fish in a single afternoon. He occupied a,
dangerous position upon two pointed rocks in the river (one foot
upon each rock and elevated some five feet above the water,) and
fished in a pool that was some seventy feet down the stream,
while the fish were landed by an expert servant stationed on the
shore about thirty feet below the sj^ot occupied by the angler.
The gentleman alluded to is acknowledged to be the most success-
ful angler in this region, and in an occasional conversation with
him, we have obtained a goodly number of piscatorial anecdotes.
One or two of them are as follows : —

On one occasion, while playing a good-sized rock-fish, it un
fortunately ran around a sharp rock, and by cutting the line made
its escape, carrying off" the angler's float, and a favourite fly. On
the third day after this event a boy who was inlaying on the river
about half a mile below the falls, happened to see a cork darting
hither and thither across the surface of the water, and imme-
diately went in pursuit of the life-like piece of wood. After
many twistings and turnings and a long row, he finally overtook
it, and to his utter astonishment he landed in his boat a very
handsome five pound basse. He recognized the fly as the one
commonly employed by our angler, to whom the fly, the float, and
the fish, were promptly delivered by the honest boy.
Another and a similar incident was as follows : —
Our angling friend had lost another float, by the obstinacy of
a fish. About a week after the mishap a fisherman who had
a " trot line" set across the river at Georgetown, for the pur-
pose of taking cat-fish, saw a great splashing in the water
near the middle of his line, and on hastening to the spot he had
the pleasure of pulling up a very handsome twelve pound basse.
After fiiring sumptuously upon the fish, the fortunate individual
took it into his head that the tackle belonged to tlie angler of the

274

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

falls, wliereupon he delivered it to our friend, accompanied with
a statement of the manner in which he made the discovery. The
distance travelled by that fish, with a hook in his month, was
four miles, and it was by the merest accident that his leading
string had become entangled with the " trot line."

The angling ground at the Little Falls is annually rented by
the proprietors to a couple of men named JoePaineand Jim Collins,
who are the presiding geniuses of the place, and have been such
for upwards of twenty years. They pay a rent of seventy dollars
per annum, and as they receive from fifty cents to five dollars
from every angler who visits them, and as they are occasionally
troubled with as many as thirty individuals per day, it may
readily be imagined that their income is respectable. Some
of Collins' friends allege that he has several thousand dollars
stowed away in an old pocket book, which it is h^s intention to
bequeatli to a favourite nephew, he liimself being a bachelor. The
reputation of Jim Collins in this soction of country is very exten-
sive, and that this should bo the case is not ab all strange, for he
is a decided original. He is about fifty years of age, measures
six feet five inches in height, and the offshoots from the four
prongs of his body number twenty-four instead of twenty, as in
ordinary mortals ; I mean by this, that his fingers and toes num-
ber no less than twenty-four. Notwithstanding this bountiful
supply of appendages, Jim Collins has a great antipathy to use-
ful labour, and is as averse to wal] ing as any web-footed animal.
Fishing and sleeping are his two principal employments; and
that he is a judge of good whisky, none of his acquaintance
would have the hardihood to doubt. The taking of small fish
he considers a business beneath his dignity, and the consequence
is t?>at h.5 tackle consists of a miniature bed cord, with a hook
and cedar pole to aatch, and his bait a whole herring. He com-
monly fishes in a boat, and the dexterity with which he " KawaU
lups" the fif?h upon his lap is truly astonishing. But if you would
see Jim Collins in his glory, wait until about the middle of a
June afternoon, after he has pocketed some fifteen dollars, and
he is sunning himself, with pipe in mouth, upon tl.e rocks,
absorbed m fishy contemplations. His appearance at such times

ed with
y. The
th, was
leading

ented by
n Collins,
leen such
;y dollars
e dollars
casionally
T, it may
e. Some
id dollars
lention to
elor. The
ery exten-
,nge, for he
, measures
n the four
Bnty, as in
I toes num-
j bountiful
hy to use-
ted animal,
nents; and
iquaintance
' small fish
lonsequence
ith a hook
. He com-
le " Kaival-
l you would
niddle of a
ioUars, and
the rocks,
such times

BOCK FISHINQ.

275

is allied to that of a mammoth crane, watching (as he does his'
cockney brethren of the craft) the m^ovements of a lot of half-
fledged water birds.

During the fishing season h€> is generally actively employed,
but the remainder of his time he spends about the Little Falls,
as if his presence were indispensable to the safe passage of tha
waters of the Potomac through this narrow gorge. That Jim
Collins should have met with many queer mishaps, during a
residence of twenty years on the Potomac, may be readily im-
agined ; but we believe the most unique adventure of which he
has ever been the victim, happened on this wise. The substan e
of the stoi'v is as follows : —

Our hero :^s a great lover of " sturgeon meat," and for many
years past it has been a habit with him to fish for that huge
leather-mouthed monster, with a large cord and sharp grappling
hooks, sinking them to the bottom with a heavy weight and then
dragging them across the bed of the stream ; his sense of touch
being so exquisite, that he can always tell the instant that his
hooks have stiiick the body of a sturgeon, and when this occurs
it is almost certain that the fish becomes a victim to the cruel,
art. In practising this mode of fisliing, Jim Collins invariably
occupies a boat alone, which he first anchors in the stream. On
one occasion he had been fishing in this manner for a long time
without success, and for the want of something more exciting, he
had resorted more frequently than usual to his junk bottle. In
process of time, however, he found the exercise of fishing decidedly
a bore, but as he was determined not to give up the sport, and
at the same time was determined to enjoy a quiet nap, he tied
the cord to his right arm, and lounged over on his back for the
purpose of taking a snooze. There was an unusual calmness in
the air and upon the neighbouring hills, and even the few angler?
who were throwing the fiy at the Falls, did so in the laziest
manner imaginable. While matters were in this condition, a
sudden splash broke the surrounding stillness, which was imme-
diately followed by a deafening shout, for it was discoveied that
a sturgeon had pulled poor Collins out of his boat into tiie swift'
stream, and he was in great danger of leading him off to tho ,

276 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

residence of David Jonea. At one moment the fisherman seemed
to have the upper hand, for he pulled upon his rope, and swore
loudly, sprawling about the water like a huge devil fish; but in
another instant the fellow would suddenly disappear, and an occa-
sional bubble rising to the surface of the stream was all the
evidence that he was not quite drowned. This contest lasted
ibr some fifteen minutes, and had not the sturgeon finally made
his escape, Jim Collins would have been no more. As it happened,
however, he finally reached the shore, about two hundred yards
below the Falls, and as he sat upon a rock, quite as near the river
Styx as he was to the Potomac, he lavished some heavy curses
upon the escaped sturgeon, and insisted upon it, that the best
hooks that man ever made were now for ever lost. Years have
elapsed since this occun'ence took place, and when the ancient
fisherman " hath his will," he recounts the story of this catas-
trophe with as brilliant a fire in his eye as that which distinguished
the countenance of Coleridge's particular friend, the " Ancient
Mariner."

Before closing this essay, it is "right and proper" that we should
allude to the beautiful scenery that the angler will enjoy in going
to and returning from the Little Falls. The entire region, in
fact, known by the name of Cooney, and comprehending some
fifteen miles of the Potomac, is particularly picturesque, but is at
the same time said to be the most barren and useless portion of
Virginia. In visiting the falls you have to pass over a kind of
wooded and rocky interval, and by an exceedingly rough road,
which is annually submerged by the spring freshets. The water
here sometimes rises to the height of fifty feet, and often makes
a terrible display of its power; on one occasion the water came
down the valley with such impetuosity that a certain wall com-
posed of rocks six or eight feet square, and united together with
iron, was removed to a distance of many rods from its original
position. To the stranger who may visit the Little Falls, we
would say, forget not on your return to Washington, the superb
prospect which may be seen from the signal tree on the heights
of Georgetown. From that point the eye comprehends at one
glance, the church spires and elegant residences of Georgetown,

BOCK FISHING.

277

L seemed

i swore

but in

an occa-

all the

I lasted

ly made

appened,

ed yards

the river

iry curses

the best

ears have

e ancient

lis catas-

inguished

' Ancient

the metropolis of the land, with its oapitol and numerous public
buildings, and the more remote city of Alexandria, with a reach
of the magnificent Potomac, extending a distance of at least
thirty miles. The best time to look upon this prospect, is at
the sunset hour, when the only sounds that fill the air are the
shrieking of swallows, and the faintly heard song of a lazy
sailor far away upon the river, where perhaps a score of vessels
are lying becalmed, while on the placid stream a retinue of crim-
son clouds are clearly and beautifully reflected. Scenes of more
perfect loveliness are seldom found in any land.

we should
•y in going
region, in
iing some
e, but is at
portion of
a kind of
•ugh road,
The wat«r
ten makes
rater came
wall com-
ether with
bs original
Falls, we
the superb
he heights
ids at one
jorgetown,

♦.278

ADVENTURES IN THE WILPS OP NORTH AMERICA.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

PIKE FISHING.

If 80 be the angler catch no fiah yet hath he a wholesome walk to the brook-
side, and pleasant shade by the sweet silver streams. — Robert Burton.

The Pike is a common fish in all the temperate, and some of
the northern regions of the world ; but in no country does he
an'ive at greater perfection than in the United States. For
some unaccountable reason he is generally known in this country
as the pickerel ; and '^■e would therefore intimate to our readera
thafc our present discourse is to be of the legitimate pike. In
England, he is known under the several names of pike, jack,
pickerel, and luce. His body is elongated, and nearly of a uni-
form depth from the head to the tail ; the head is also elongated
and resembles that of the duck; his mouth is very large and
abundantly supplied with sharp teeth, and his scales are small
and particularly adhesive; the colour of his back is a dark
brown, sides a mottled green or yellow, and belly a silvery white.
The reputation of this fish for amiability is far from being
enviable, for he is called not only the shark of the fresh waters,
but also the tyrant of the liquid plain. He is a cunning and
savage creature, and for these reasons even the most humane of
fishermen at e seldom troubled with conscientious scruples when
they succeed in making him a captive. Pliny and Sir Francis
Bacon both considered the pike to be the longest lived of any
fresh water fish, and Gesner mentions a pike which he thought
to be two hundred years old. Of these ancient fellows, Walton
remarks, that they have more in them of state than goodness,
the middle-sized individuals being considered the best eating.
The prominent peculiarity of tliis fish is his voraciousness.

PIKE t'ISIIING.

279

[the brook-*
Jton.

some of
does he

ies. For
Is country

r readei*3

'ike. In
'ike, jack,
■ of a uni-
elongated
large and
are small
s a dark
sry white.
)m beinsr
h waters,
ning and
umane of
►Ies when
• Francis
3d of any

thought
, Walton
goodness,
it eating,
iousness.

Edward Jesse relates that five large pike once devoured about eight
hundred gudgeons in the course of three weeks. He swallows every
animal he can subdue, and is so much of a cannibal that he will
devour his own kind fall as soon as a common minnow. Young
ducks and even kittens have been found in his stomach, and it
is. said that he often contends with the otter- for his prey.
Gesner relates that a pike once attacked a mule while it
was drinking on the margin of a pond, and his teeth, Jiaving
become fastened in the snout of the astonished beast, lie was
safely landed on the shore. James Wilson once killed a pike
weighing seven pounds, in whose stomach was found another
pike weighing over a ^-^'-nd, and in the mouth of the yout dVl
fish was yet disco \ respectable perch. Even men, ' t(5le

wading in a pond, 1 > attacked by this fresh-wate woiil

He is so much of . unator, that when placed in a Hinall

lake with other fish, it is not long before he becomes " master
of all he surveys," having depopulated his watery world of
every species but his own. The following stoiy, illustrating the
savage propensity of this fish, is related by J. V. C. Smith. A
gentleman was angling for pike, and having captured one, subse-
quently met a shepherd and his dog, and presented the former
with his prize. While engaged in clearing his tackle, the dog
seated himself unsuspectingly in the immediate vicinity of the
pike, and as fate would have it, his tail was ferociously snapped
at by the gasping fish. The dog was of course much terrified,
ran in every direction to free himself, and at last plunged into
the stream. The hair had become so entangled in the fish's
teeth, however, that it could not release its hold. The dog again
sought the land, and made for his master's cottage, where -he
was finally freed from his unwilling persecutor; but notwith-
standing the unnatural adventure of the fish, he actually
sunk his teeth into the stick which was used to force open
his jaws.

The pike of this country does not difier essentially from the
pike of Europe. His food usually consists of fish and frogs,
though he is far from being particular in this matter. He
Joves a still, shady water, in river or pond, and usually lies in

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280

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

the vicinity of flags, bulrushes, and water-lilies, though he often
shoots out into .the clear stream, and on such occasions fre-
quently affords the , riflemen good sport. In summer he ia
taken at the top and in the middle, but in winter at the bottom.
His time for spawning is March, and he is in season about eight
months in .the year. In speaking of the size of this fish, the
anglers of Europe have recorded some marvellous stories, of
which we tnow nothing, and care less. In this country they
vary from two to four feet in length, and in weight from two
to forty pounds ; when weighing less than two pounds, he is called
a jack. As an article of food he seems to be in good repute; but
since we once found a large water-snake in the stomach of a monster
fish, we have never touched him when upon the table. He suits
not our palate, but -as an object of sport we esteem him highly,
and can never mention his name without a thrill of pleasure.

In this place we desire to record our opinion against che idea
that the pike and maskalunge are one and the same fish. For
many years we entertained the opinion that there was no differ-
ence between them, only that the lattsf was merely an overgrown
pike. We have more recently had many opportunities of com-
paring the* two species together, and we know that to the careful
and scientific observer, there is a marked difference. The head
of a maskahinge is the smallest; he is the stoutest fish, is mor&
silvery in colour, grows to a much larger size, and is with
difficulty tempted to heed the lures of the angler. They are so
precisely similar in their general habits, however, that they
must be considered as belonging to the pike faniily. They are
possibly the independent, eccentric, and self-satisfied nabobs
of the race to which they belong; always managing to keep the
world ignorant of their true character, until after their days are
numbered.

We will now mention one or two additional traits, which we
had nearly forgotten. The first is, that the pike is as distin-
guished for his abstinence as for his voracity. During the
summer months, his digestive organs seem to be somewhat
torpid, and this is the time that he is out of season. During
this period he is particularly listless in his movements, spending

CA.

PIKE FISHING.

281

gh he often
casions ire-
Lmer he is
the bottom,
about eight
is fish, the
stories, of
mntry they
t from two
he is called
epute; but
)f a monster

He suits
bim highly,
aleasure.
ist che idea
I fish. For
is no differ-
overgrown
ies of com-
the careful

The head

sh, is more

id is with

Chey are so

that they

They are
ed nabobs
bo keep the
ir days are

, which we
I as distin-
)uring the
somewhat
L. During
I, spending

nearly all the sunny hours basking near the surface of the water;
and as this is the period when the smaller fry are usually com-
mencing their active existence, we cannot but distinguish in this
aiTangement of nature the wisdom of Providence. Another
habit peculiar to this fish is as follows : — During the autumn,
he spends the day-time in deep water, and the night in the shal-
lowest water he can find along the shores of river or lake. Wo
have frequently seen them so very near the dry land as to dis-
play their fins. What their object 6an be in thus spending
the dark hours, it is hard to determine: is it to enjoy the
warmer temperature of the shallow water, or for the purpose of
watching and capturing any small land animals that may come
to the water to satisfy their thirst? We have heard it alleged
that they seek the shore for the purpose of spawning, but it is
an established fact that they cast their spawn in the spring; and,
besides, the m()nths during which they seek the shore as above
stated, are the very ones in which they are in the best condition,
and afford the angler the finest sport. Autumn is the time,
too, when they are more frequently and more easily taken with
the spear, than during any other season. And as to this spear-
ing business, generally speaking, We consider it an abominable
practice; but in the case of the savage and obstinate pike, it
ought to be countenanced eVen by the legitimate angler.

We have angled for pike in nearly ^11 the waters of this
country where they abound. The immense quantity of book
lore that we have read respecting the character of pike tackle,
has always seemed to us an intelligent species of nonsense — a
kind of literature originally invented by tackle oanufacturers.
Our own equipment for pike fishing we consider first-rate, and
yet it consists only of a heavy rod and reel, a stout linen line, a
brass ^nell, a sharp Kirby hook, and a landing-net. For bait
we prefer a live minnow, though a small shiner, or the belly of a
yellow perch, is nearly as sure to attract notice. We have
taken a pike with a gaudy fly, and also with an artificial minnow^
but you cannot depend upon these allurements. Sinkers we
seldom use, and the fashionable thing called a float we utterly
abominate. We have fished for pike in almost every manne^

iJti'

. ii

282

.ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

W. ']

but our favourite method has ever been from an anchored boat,
when our only companion wag a personal friend, and a lover of
the written and unwritten poetry of nature. This is the most
qTiiet and contemplative method, and unquestionably one of the
most successful ones; for though the pike is not easily frightened,
it takes but a single splash of an oar when trolling, to set
him a-thinking, which is quite as unfortunate for the angler's
success as if he were actually alarmed. Another advantage is,
that while swinging to an anchor you may fish at the bottom,
if you please, or try the stationary trolling fashi<^n. To
make our meaning understood, we would add, that an expert
angler can tbrow his hook in any direction from his boat, to the
distance of at least a huii'lred feet, and in pulling it in, he
secures all the advantages that result fi'om the common mode of
trolling. The pike is a fish which calls forth a deal of patience,
and must be humoured ; for he will sometimes scorn the hand,
somest bait, apparently out of mere spite ; but the surest time
to take him is when there is a cloudy sky and a southerly breeze.
Live fish are the best bait, as we have before remarked, though
the leg of a frog is good, and in winter a piece of pork, but
nothing can be better than a shiner or a little perch; and it
jnight here be remarked, that as the pike is an epicure in the
manner of his eating, it is invariably a good plan to let him have
his own time, after he has seized the bait. As to torchlight
fishing for pike, though unquestionably out of the pale of the
;regular angler's sporting, it is attended with much that we must
deem poetical and interesting. Who can dc '■ this proposition
when we consider the picturesque effect of joat and lighted
torch, gliding along the wild shores cf a lake, on a still, dark
night, with one figure noiselessly plying an oar, and the animated
attitude of another relieved againsi the fire-light, and looking
into the water like Orpheus into hell? And remember, too, the
thousand inhabitants of the liquid element that we see, and
almost fancy to be endowed with human sympathies. What
a pleasure to behold the various finny tribes amid their
own chosen haunts, leading, as Leigh Hunt has exquisitely
written,

PIKE riSHINO.

" A cold, sweet, silver life, wrapped in ronnd waves,
Quickened with touches of transporting fear I "

288

In some of the Northern States, fishing for pike with set lines
through the ice, is practised to a great extent. The lines are
commonly attached to a figure four, by which the fisherman
is informed that he has a bite, and if he has many lines out, and
the fish are in a humour to be captured, this mode of fishing is
really very exciting. Especially so, if the ice is smooth, and the
fisherman can attend to his hooks, with a pair of sharp skates
attached to his feet.

Another mode for catching pike in the winter, and which we
have seen practised in the lakes and rivers of Michigan, is as
follows. You cut a large hole in the ice, over wliich you erect a
tent or small portable house ; and after taking a seat therein, you
let down a bait for the purpose of alluring the fish, and as they
follow the hook, even to your feet, you pick them out with a
sharp spear.

But it is time that we should change the tone of our discourse,
and mention the favourite waters of the American pike. The
largest we have ever seen were taken in the upper Mississippi,
and on the St. Joseph and Raisin rivers of Michigan, where
they are very abundant. They are also found in nearly all the
streams emptying into Lakes Michigan, Erie, and Ontario; —
also, in the Ohio and its tributaries. We have heard of them
in the upper St. liawrence, and know them to abound in Lake
Ghamplain, and in a large proportion of the lakes and rivers ot
New England. A very pretty lady once told us that she had
seen a pike taken from Lake Champlain, which was as long as
the sofa upon which we were seated together, and conversing
upon the gentle art of fishing, and the tender one of love. Pike
fishing with the hook we have not practised to a very great ex-
tent. Our angling experience has been chiefly confined to the
smaller lakes of Connecticut, particularly those in the vicinity
of Norwich. Our favourite resort has been Gardner's Lake,
whose shores are surrounded with pleasant wood-crowned hills,
teeming with partridge and wood-cock, and the Sabbath stillness
which usually reigns about it is seldom broken, save by tha

281

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

3- ;,

dipping oar, or the laugh of the light-hearted fisherman. Dearly
.indeed do we cherish the memory of the pleasant days spent
upon this picturesque lake ; and we hope it may never be used
for any other purpose than to mirror the glories of heaven, and
never ba visited by any but genuine sportsmen and true-hearted
lovers of nature. Preston Lake is another beautiful sheet of
water near Norwich, which reminds us of a night adventure. A
couple of us had visited it for the purpose of taking pike by
torchlight, having brought our spears and dry-pine all the way
from Norwich in a one-horse wagon. It was a cold but still
autumnal night, and as we tied our horse to a tree in an open
field, we had every reason to anticipate a " glorious time." So
far as the fish were concerned, we . enjoyed fine sport, for we
caught about a dozen pike, varying from one to four pounds in
weighty but the miseries we subsequently endured were posi-
tively intolerable. We had much difficulty in making our
boat seaworthy, and, in our impatience to reach the fish-
ing grounds, we misplaced our brandy bottle in the tall
grass, and were therefore deprived of its warming companion-
ship. About midnight, a heavy fog began to rise, which not
only prevented us from distinguishing a pike from a log of wood,
but caused us to become frequently entangled in the top of a
dry tree, lying on the water. Our next step, therefore, was to go
home, but then came the trouble of finding our " desired haven."
This we did happen to find, for a wonder, and having gathered
up our plunder, started on our course over the frosty grass after
our vehicle and horse. We found them, but it was in a most
melancholy plight indeed. Like a couple of large fools, we had
omitted to release the horse from the wagon, as we should have
done, and the consequence was that he had released himself, by
breaking the fills and tearing off the harness, and we discovered
him quietly feeding a few paces from the tree to which we had
fastened him. What next to do we could not in our utter
despair possibly determine; but after a long consultation, we
both concluded to mount the miserable horse, and with our fish
in hand we actually started upon our miserable journey home.
Our fish were so heavy, that we were compelled at the end of

PIKE FISHINQ.

285

Dearly
ays spent
}r be used
aven, and
le-hearted
sheet of
nture. A
; pike by
the way
but still
I an open
ime." So
t, for we
pounds in
vere posi-
iking our
the fish-
the tall
topanion-
which not
5 of wood,
J top of a
was to go
}d haven."
gathered
frass after
in a most
is, we had
ould have
imself, by
liscovered
ih we had ,
our utter
ation, we
ii our fish
ley home,
he end of

the first mile to throw them away, and as the day was breaking,
we entered the silent streets of Norwich, pondeiing upon the
pleasures of pike fishing by torchlight, and solemnly counting
the cost of our nocturnal expedition.

But the most successful pike fishing we ever enjoyed was at
Crow Wing, on the upper Mississippi. We were spending a
few days with an isolated Indian trader of the wilderness, around
whose cabin were encamped about three hundred Chippewa In-
dians. Seldom was it that we allowed a night to pass away
without trying our luck with the spear, and as a dozen canoes
were often engaged in the same sport, the bosom of the river
presented a most romantic and beautiful appearance. Each
canoe usually contained two or three individuals, and our torches,
which were made of dried birch bark, threw such a fiood of light
upon the translucent water, that we could see every object in the
bed of the river with the utmost distinctness. Beautiful indeed
were those fishing scenes, and when the canoes had floated down
the river for a mile or two, the homeward-bound races that fol-
lowed between the shouting Indians, were exciting in the ex-
treme. And what added to our enjoyment of this sportiiig, was
the idea that to grasp the hand of a white man (besides that of
our host), we should have to travel one hundred miles through
a pathless wilderness. We seldom took any note of time, and
sometimes were throwing the spear even when the day was
breaking. The largest fish that we saw taken at Crow Wing
weighed upwards of forty pounds, and we have known five
spearmen to take seventy pike and . muskalonge in a single
night.

But we must curtail our pike stories, for we purpose to ap-
pend to our remarks a few interesting observations upon that
and a kindred fish, which have been kindly furnished to us by an
accomplished scholar, a genuine angler, and a valued friend,
John R. Bartlett, Esq. »

The pike bears the same relation to the finny tribes that the
hyena and jackal do to animals, the vulture to birds, or the
spider to insects — one of the most voracious of fishes. He feeds
alike on the living or dead; and even those of his own brethren

■ : I ; ■'

286

ADVENTUBES IN THS WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

III

which ai'e protected by nature against the attacks of other fish,
find no protection against him. It is remarkable in the economy
of animals, that while nature provides her weaker and smaller
creatures with the means of defence against the stronger ones,
she has, at the same time, furnished some of the latter with
weapons, apparently for the very purpose of overcoming the
feeble, however well they may be guarded. Thus, the pike, with
its immentie jaws, armed with innumerable teeth, is able to seize
and crush every kind of fish. Its own kind do not escape, for
instances are frequent when a pike of three or four pounds is
found in the stomach of one of twelve or fifteen pounds weight.

It is interesting to notice the habits of the pike, which an
angler may easily do in still, clear water. They have been charac-
terized as a solitary, melancholy, and bold fish. Never are they
found in schools, or even in pairs, as most other fish are, nor are
they often seen in open water, where other fish would discover
them, and avoid their grasp. When in open water, they lie
very near the bottom, quite motionless, appearing like a sunken
stick. Their usual and favourite place of resort is among the
tall weeds, where they cannot be seen. .Here they lie, as it were,
in ambush, waiting the approach of some innocent, unsuspecting
fish, when they dart forth with a swiftness which none, of the'
finny tribe can attain, seize their harmless victim, and slowly
bear it away to some secluded spot. Here they crush their
prey with their immense jaws, and leisurely force it into their
capacious stomachs. Often, when angling for the pike with a
live perch, from a wharf so far raised above the water that I
could see every object for twenty feet on either side, a pike has
so suddenly' darted from a cluster of weeds, beyond the range of
my vision, that the first intimation I had of his presence was,
that he had seized my bait.

On one occasion, when angling in the St. Lawrence, where
pike are very abundant, I put a minnow on my hook, and threw
my line towards a mass of weeds, in the hope of tempting a perch
to take it. Not many minutes had elapsed before my silveiy
minnow had tempted the appetite of one, which soon conveyed
him to his maw. Knowing that my game was sure, I let him

0!^ f'',\''

,^1 m

PIKE FISHING.

287'

ler fish,

conomy

smaller

er ones,

ier with

ing the

ce, with

to seize

3ape, for

3unds is

weight.

rhich an

1 charac-

are they

, nor are

discover

they lie

I sunken

nong the

8 it were,

ispecting

ie.of the'

id slowly

ish their

nto their

e with a

3r that I

pike has

range of

nee was,

le, where
ad threw.
5 a perch
y silvery
jonveyed
: let him

play about, first allowing him to run to the extent of my line,
and then drawing him towards me, when, on a sudden, a pike
shot from his hiding-place and seized my perch. I was obliged
to let the fellow have his own way, and give him all the time he
wanted to swallow the perch, when, with a good deal of difficulty,
I succeeded in disabling him, and towed him in triumph to the
shore. The perch weighed a pound and a half; the pike ien
pounds.

The long and slender form of the pike, tapering towards the
head and tail, enables him to move with gi*eat rapidity through
the water, while his smooth and finless back facilitates his move-
ments through the weeds or marine plants. Thus has nature
provided this fish with a form adapted to its habits, and with'
large and well-armed jaws, to give it a pre-eminence among the
finny tribes which inhabit the same waters. I have often
thought why so great an enemy, so great a devourer of his race,
should be placed among them, favoured by so many advantages.
May it not, nay, iiinst it not be for some wise purpose? It is
known how very prolific fishes are, and unless some way was
provided to lessen the number, our inland waters could not con-
tain the vast numbers which a few years would produce. Most
fish live on each other, others on decomposing substances floating
about. It is not always the largest that prey on each other, for
the sturgeon is one of the largest fresh-water fish, and he sub-
sists on decomposing matter or minute fish. A few pike placed
in a lake, would very effectually prevent an over-population.
May it not, then, be so ordered, that the inhabitants of the seas,
which are not so fiwoured as those who dwell < < the earth's
surface, and who have a great variety of food to s apply their
wants, may have the means of providing their own sustenance
by an immense increase of their own species? "

Blaine observes that " the abstinence of the pike and jack is
no less singular than their voracity; during the summer months
their digestive faculties are somewhat torpid, which appears a
remarkable peculiarity in pike economy, seeing it must be in
inverse ratio to the wants of the fish, for they must be at this
time in a state of emaciation from the effects of spawning.

S88

ADVEKTUBES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

During the summer they are listless, and affect the surface of
the water, where in warm sunny weather they seem to bauk in a
sleepy state for hours together. It is not a little remarkable,
that smaller fish appear to be aware when this abstinent state of
their foe is upon him ; for they who at other times are evidently
impressed with an instinctive dread of his presence, are now
swimming around him with total unconcern. At these periods,
no baits, however tempting, can allure him ; but on the contrary,
he retreats from eveiything of the kind. "Windy weather is
alone capable of exciting his dormant powers. This inaptitude
to receive food with the usual keenness, continues from the time
they spawn, until the time of their recovery from the effects
of it."

The peculiarity above noticed does not entirely apply to the
pike of the Northern States, and particularly of the great lakes
and rivers whose waters are not so sensibly affected by the heat
of summer as shallow water ds. In the smaller streams he lies
in the listless state described by Mr. Blaine, but when he can
reach the deep water he always does so. v .4?/^^

Pike are found in all the lakes and inland waters of the
Northern and Middle States of the Union. In the great lakes
they grow to an enormous size. No fish is better known
throughout Europe and the northern parts of Asia. In colder
dimes he attains the largest size, and is said by Walkenburg to
disappear in geographical distribution with the fir. In our
waters they are taken of all sizes, from four or five pounds to
fifty or sixty. Their haunts are generally among the weeds or
marine plants near the shore, or in deep bays where the water is
not made rough by winds, and in all parts of rivers. They are
rarely found on rocky bottoms or bars. A high wind and rough
sea often drives them from their weedy haunts into deeper
water. I have noticed this particularly on Lake Ontario. From
wharves where basse are only taken on ordinary occasions, pike
will bite with avidity when a severe gale is blowing, and the
water is in a disturbed state.

Tliis fish, according to Donovan, attains a larger size in a shorter
time, in proportion to most others, In the course of the first

PIKE FISHING.

289

year it grows eight or ten indies ; the second, twelve or fourteen ;
the third, eighteen or twenty i aches. Some pike were turned
into a pond in England, the largest of which weighed two and a
half pounds. Four years after, the water was let off, when one
pike of nineteen pounds, and others of from eleven to fifteen,
were found. Mr. Jesse, in his Gleanings of Natural History, re-
lates certain experiments by which he shows that the growth of
I)ike is about four pounds a year, which corresponds with the
growth of those before stated.

The various books on sporting give numerous instances of pike
weighing from thirty to forty pounds, taken in England, though
an instance is mentioned in Dodsley's Register for 17G5, of an
enormous pike weighing 170 pounds, which was taken from a
pool near Newport, England, which had not been fished in for
ages. In Ireland and Scotland, they are found larger than
in England. In the Shannon and Lough Corrib, they have been
found from seventy to ninety-two pounds in weight. At Broad-
ford, near Limerick, one was taken weighing ninety-six i)Ounds.
Another was caught by trolling in Loch Pentluliche, of fifty
pounds; and another in Loch Spey, that weighed 146 pounds.
But these are small in comparison with a pike, which is stated
by Gesner (and from him quoted by most writers on fish) to have
been taken in a pool near the capital of Sweden, in the year 1497>
which was fifteen feet in length, and weighed 350 pounds. Un-
der the skin of this enormous fish was discovered a ring of Cyprus
brass, having a Greek inscription round the rim, which was inter-
preted by Dalburgus, Bishop of Worms, to signify : " I am the
fish first of all placed in this pond, by the hands of Frederic the
Second, on the 5th of October, in the year of grace 1230;" which
would make its age 2G7 yeai-s. The ring about his neck was
made with springs, so as to enlarge as the fish grew. His
skeleton was for a long time preserved at Manheim.

During the past summer which I spent on the banks of the St.
Lawrence, I had frequently tried the spool trolling, and always
•with success. Sometimes I would use two lines, one 70 the other
120 feet in length. On the longer one I had the best success*
and my bait would be seized three times, when on the shorter

290

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMEKIUA.

one it would be but once; it being farther from tlie boat, the
movemeritii of which through the water, and the noiue of the oars,
drove the fish off. From experience I am satisfied that long
trolling linen are the beat. Basse will seize a fly or Hfrnon at u
few feet distance, but a pike will not. I have tried the experi-
ment, when trolling for pike, to attach to one hook a bait of pork
and red fiannel, a very common bait, and to the other a brusd
spoon. The latter was invariably seized first, for the only rea-
son, I suppose, that it made more show in the water. Neither
resembled a fish, fly, or any living creature, but curiosity or
hunger attracted the fish to the strange bait gliding through the
water, which they seized, paying with their lives the penalty
for so doing.

There is a large fish of the pike species commonly called the
muskalonge or maskalunge before spoken of, of what specific
character is not well understood by naturalists. Their habits
and their haunts are the same as those of the pike, and they attain
a larger size than any fish of our inland waters. I have seen
them carried by two men of ordinary height, with a pole run-
ning through the gills and supported on the shoulders of the
men. In this position the tail of the fish dragged on the ground.
Forty or fifty pounds is not an unusual weight for them, and
instances are known when much larger ones have been caught.
Muskalonge are generally taken in seines, seldom with the hook.
Their size is so large that the ordinary baits of anglers would be
no temptation to them. In the several opportunities which I
have had to examine the stomachs of these fish, I have invariably
found within them fish of very large size, such as no angler would
ever think of putting on his line. The largest perch I ever saw,
about fifteen inches in length, was taken from the paunch of a
muskalonge, and I have often seen catfish, perch, and other fish
weighing from one to two pounds, taken from them ; but in no
instance small fish ; and hence anglers have not taken them, as
few would angle with live bait of that size, where there are no
fish but these which would take it.

The most exciting sport I ever had on the St. Lawrence, or
any where else, was capturing a muskalonge. It was a regular

PIKE FISHING.

)oat, the
the oars,
lat long
ooQ at u
ex peri-

t of jKjrk
a brusd

only roa-
Neither

iosity or

.'oiigh the
penalty

;alled the
specific
ir habits
ley attain
lavo seen
polo run-
i-s of the
le ground,
jhem, and
n caught,
the hook,
would be

which I
nvariably
ler would
ever saw,
inch of a
other fish
)ut in no

them, as
3re are no

Tence, or
a regular

battle, such only as salmon anglers enjoy when they hook a
twenty-pounder. As the method was very different, I will state
the particulars.

A friend and myself took a small skiff, with one trolling line,
intending to take turns at the oars, and proceeded at once to a
favourite spot among the " Thousand Islands."

I held the trolling line with a spoon hook attached, while n»y
companion pulled the oai*s. We sailed among the secluded places,
wherever weeds were seen below the surface of the water, and
were rewarded with good sport by taking several fine pike, weigh-
ing from six to fifteen pounds, which we managed to secure with
ease, save the largest, which gave us some trouble. We then
thought we would tiy deeper water, in the hope of tempting
larger fish. A few windings among the clusters of small islands
brought us to the channel of the river, when I directed my com-
panion to increase the speed of our skiff, determined that the
curiosity of no fish should be satisfied, without first tasting my
gilded spoon. We pulled for half a mile, when the river wound
suddenly round an island, which presented a bold shore, from the
rushing of the river's current. The tall forest-trees extended to
the very brink of the river, over which they hung, throwing a
deep shadow on the water. This quiet spot looked as though it
might be an attractive one for some solitary fish, and we accord-
ingly took a sweep around the foot of the island. Scarcely had
we entered the deep shade spoken of, when I felt a tug at my
line, which was so strong that I supposed my hook had come in
contact with a floating log or fallen tree. My companion backed
water with his oars to relieve my hook, when another violent pull
at my line convinced me that it was no log, but some living
creature of great weight. My line was already out its full length
of 150 feet; no alternative was therefore left but to give my fish
more line by rowing after him.

Tins we did for a few minutes, when I began to pull in the
slack of my line, some fifty feet or more, when I felt my fish.
The check was no sooner felt by him than he started forward
with a velocity scarcely conceivable in the water, bringing my
line taut, and the next moment our skiff was moYing off stem

29^

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

foremost towards the river's clianiiel. We soon perceived that
our fish had turned his head up stream, and as the water was deep,
there was no danger of his coming in contact with weeds or pro-
tmdinff rocks. We therefore allowed him to tow us for about
five minutes, when he stopped. Then quickly backing water
with our oars, and taking in our line, we carefully laid it over
the skiflTs side, until we had approached within twenty feet of
our fish. I then gave him another check, which probably turn-
ed his head, for he again darted off in a contrary direction down
stream. We pulled our skiff in the same direction as fast as
possible to give the fish a good run before checking him again,
but he soon had the line out its full length, and was again towing
our skiff after him with more rapidity than before. This did not
last long, however, for T then took the line and hauled towards
him to lessen our distance. He made another slap, when I
managed to keep my line taut, and with our oars moved towards
him. Our victim now lay on the surface of the water with his
belly upward, apparently exhausted, when we found him to be a
muskalonge, between five and eight feet in length. We had no
sooner got him alongside than he gave a slap with his tail and
again darted off the whole length of the line, taking us once more
in tow. His run was now short, and '*• was evident he was get-
ting tired of the business. Again the line slacked, and we drew
thcj skiff up to the spot where he lay turned up on his back.

He now seemed so far gone that I thought we might draw him
into our skiff, ao I reached out my gaff and hooked him under the
jaw, while my companion passed his oar under him. In this way
we contrived to raise him over the gunwale of the skiff, when he
slid to its bottom. I then placed my foot at the back of his head
to hold him down, in order to disengage my hook, which passed
through Ids upper jaw. No sooner had I attempted this than he
began to flap about, compelling us to give him room to avoid his
immense jaws. Every moment seemed to increase his strength,
when my companion seized an oar in order to despatch him, while
I took out my knife for the same purpose. The first blow with
the oar had only the effect to awaken our fish, which, taking
another and more powerful somerset, threw himself over the gun-

FIKE FISHINa.

293

Jved that
as deep,
is or pro-
[for about
ng water
Id it over
ty feet of
hly turn-
ion down
as fast as
im again,
in towing
lis did not
towards
when I
id towards
r with his
lim to be a
Ve had no
is tail and
once more
le was get-
d we drew
1 back.
> draw him
under the
n this way
f, when he
»f his head
ich passed
is than he
avoid his
strength,
lim, while
)low with
h, taking
r the gun-

wale of our skiff, which was but a few inches above the water,
and with a plunge disappeared in the deep water at our side.
We had scarcely recovered from our surprise, when I found my
line drawn out again to its full length, save a few tangles and
twists, which had got into it in the struggle between us and our
fish. We determined to trifle no longer with the fellow, with
our small skiff, but to make for the shore and there land him.
A small island a short distance from us, seemed to present a con-
venient place, and here without further ceremony we pulled, tow-
ing our fish after us. I leaped into the water about ten feet from
the shore, and tugged away at my victim, who floated like p log
upon the water, while my companion stood by wjth an oar to
make the capture more sure this time. In this way we landed
him in safety just one hour and a quarter after he was first hooked.
This muskalonge weighed forty-nine pounds, and had withm him
a pike of three pounds weight, a chub, partially decomposed, of four
pounds, and a perch of one and a half pounds, which appeared to
have been but recently swallowed; yet this fish's appetite was
not satisfied, and he lost his life in grasping at a glittering bauble.
Any person who has ever killed a pike of ten pounds or up-
wards, can readily imagine the strength of one five times its
weight.

The great strength of these fish was shown in a sporting ad-
venture which happened to a friend of mine when out a few
evenings since, spearing by torchlight. The person alluded to
had never before tried his hand with the spear, although he was
a skilful angler. On this occasion he had killed several fish,
which he secured without trouble. He was then in about six or
eight feet of water, when he discovered a large fish, either a very
large pike or muskalonge. He planted himself with one foot
below the flaming torch, the other a little behind, when he
plunged his spear into the huge fish that lay so quietly before
him; but whether he was so deceived in the depth of the water,
or whether he had not braced himself properly in the boat, is not
known, at any rate he struck the fish, which darted off like
lightnmg, taking the spear with him, as well as him who threw
it. For the gentleman, probably deceived by the depth of the

! I

294

ADYENTUBES IX THE WILDS OF NOBTH AMERICA.

water, had reached forward too far and thereby lost his balance.
So over he went head foremost, holding on to the spear. But he
was satisfied without following the fish further, which escaped with
the long spear, neither of which could be again seen. The gentle-
man made the best of his way into the skiff. Two days after a
large muskalonge floated ashore several mileg below the Spot where
the event took place, with the spear still clinging to him, just
before the dorsal fiiu

■ f

, i>

'.■j->.;'-,-,&"«

;---lte

yi t:l

.,:-:9.W\

■ ... rr

•■

--.;.i^'^»

■^ I

"^-'/'l- >Ui*

XTSmNG IN OENEBAL.

295

is balance.
But he
japed with
"he gentle-
ys after a
pot where
him, just

. .1.

- .: ■ W

^ ■

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

FISHING IN GENERAL.

** We have, indeed, often thought that angling alone offers to man the de-
gree of half-business, half-idleness which the fair sex find in their needle-work
or knitting, which, employing the hands, leaves the mind at liberty, and occu-
pying the attention, so far as is necessary to remove the painful sense of a
vacuity, yet yields room for contemplation, whether upon things heavenly or
earthly, cheerful or melancholy." — Sir Walter Scott.

In the preceding articles we have given the public the sub-
stance of our experience in regard to our five favourite fish, the
salmon, trout, pike, rock, and black basse. On the present occa-
sion we purpose to embody within the limits of a single article,
our stock of information upon the remaining fish of the United
States, which properly come under the jurisdiction of the angler.
We shall proceed in our remarks after the manner of the dic-
tionary-makers, and shall take up each variety without any
regard to their order, but as they may happen to come into our
mind.

The Perch. — ^With two members of this family alone are we
personally acquainted, viz. the yellow perch and the white perch.
The first is a beautiful fish, and found in nearly all the waters
of the Northern and Middle States, and probably as well known
throughout the world as any of the finny tribes. Its predomi-
nating colour is yellow; it has an elegant form, is a bold biter,
varies in weight from four ounces to a pound, (although occa-
sionally found in New England weighing two pounds ;) has a dry
and sweet flesh, but ill adapted to satisfy the cravings of a hun-
gry man on account of its bones, which are particularly numerous,
hard, and pointed. They generally swim about in schools, and
;^et at the same time are not at all distinguished for their intelli-

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERICA.

gence, being invariably allured to destruction by the most bung-
ling anglers, and the more common kinds of bait. They spawn
in the autumn, and recover, so as to be in fine condition, early in
the spring. They delight in clear rivers or lakes, with pebbly
bottoms, though sometimes found on sandy or clayey soils. They
love a moderately deep water, and frequent holes at the mouth
of small streams, or the hollows under the banks. "With regard
to the white perch we have only to say that it is well described
by its name, is a migratory fish, found in nearly all the rivers of
the Atlantic coast, from Boston to Norfolk; and they weigh
from six ounces to one pound, are in season during the spring
and summer, are capital as an article of food, and afford the entire
brotherhood of anglers an abundance of sport. As touching the
name of the fish now before us, we desire to chronicle our opinion
respecting an important instance in which it has been misapplied.
Many years ago, while reading the remarkable and intensely in-
teresting work of Audubon on the birds of America, we chanced
upon the description of a fish, found in the Ohio, to which he
gave the name of white perch. Subsequently to that period,
while sojourning in the city of Cincinnati, we happened to re-
member Mr. Audubon's description, and one morning visited the
market for the purpose of examining the fish. "We found them
very abundant, and were informed that they commanded a high
price. On examining the fish, however, in view of certain doubts
that we had previously entertained (for we knew that the white
perch of the brook was a native of salt water), we found it to be
not a legitimate white perch, but simply the fish known on Lake
Erie as the fresh water sheepshead. But this misapplication of
the term perch is not peculiar to the residents on the Ohio, for
we know that, throughout the Southern Statas where the black
basse is found, it is universally called the black perch ; and that
in the vicinity of Boston and Nahant the miserable little fish
called the conner is there designated as a black perch. That
there are several varieties of the real perch besides those which
we have mentioned we do not deny, but we feel confident that
the above correction cannot be refuted.

The Mushdonge and Pickerel, — Both of these fish are peculiar

FISHING IN GENERAL.

297

lost bung-
liey spawn
n, early in
th pebbly
ils. They
the mouth
'ith regard
. described
lo rivers of
bey weigh
bhe spring

the entire
aching the
ur opinion
Qisapplied.
tensely in-
ve chanced

which he
lat period,
ned to re-
visited the
mnd them
ded a high
ain doubts
; the white
nd it to be
^n on Lake
lication of
5 Ohio, for
I the black
; and that

little fish
:ch. That
lose which
ident that

re peculiar

to the United States, and especially to the Great Lakes, and the
waters of the St. Lawrence and Mississippi. The former belongs
unquestionably to the pike family, although commonly weighing
from twenty to forty pounds, while many people affirm that it
is only an overgrown pike. They are valued as an article of food,
and, by those who are fond of killing the most savage of game at
the expense of much labour, they are highly appreciated. The
best and about the only valuable account of this fish that we have
ever seen, was written by George "W". Clinton, Esq., and published
in the Buffalo Commercial Advertiser. As to the fish which we
call the pickerel, we have to say that it occupies a position some-
where between the trout and perch ; that it is a favourite with
the anglers of Lake Champlain, Lake Erie, and Lake Michigan,
and with those also who practise the gentle art along the borders
of the Ohio and the Tennessee. It is an active fish, of a roundish
form, with large mouth and sharp teeth, and covered with small
scales, the predominating colours being a dark green and yellow-
ish white. The name which it bears is the one so generally ap-
plied, but erroneously, to the legitimate pike. It is also the same
fish known in the South-west as the salmon, but as unlike the
peerless creature of the far North as a grey wolf is unlike a deer.
As is the case with the muskalonge, the pickerel is among the
first of the finny tribes that run up our Western rivers early in
the spring; and in the waters of Lake Champlain and the St.
Lawrence they are found herding with the yellow perch, and we
believe that in some districts they are considered as belonging to
the perch family.

Tfie Catfish. — This fish is distinguished for its many deformi-
ties, and is a great favourite with all persons who have a fancy
for muddy waters. In the Mississippi they are frequently taken
weighing upwards of one hundred pounds ; and while they are
taken in all the tributaries of that river, it has been ascertained
that they decrease in size as you ascend towards the north. They
are also found in the tributaries of Lake Erie. They are taken
with any kind of bait ; and as they are very strong, the best of
tackle is invariably necessary. This fish is also found in many
of the lakes of New England, where they seldom weigh more than

298

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OP NORTH AMERIClL

two pounds, being there known as the horn or bull pout, owing
to a peculiar pectoral thorn with which they are adorned. Their
flesh, though not particularly sweet, is said to be easily digested,
and they ai-e often sought for by people with weak stomachs.
But it has always seemed to us that it required a very powerful
stomach to eat a piece from one of the mammoths of the Western
waters.

As to the remaining fresh-water fish of the country, we will
content ourself by merely mentioning the names of those which
are known to our anglers, to wit : the chub, dace, white basse,
sunfish, roach, bream, and rock basse. The fish called in Virginia
and Maryland the fall fish, is identical with the dace. In the
waters of the West the mullet, fresh water shcepshead, and sucker,
are found in immense numbers, but they are all exceedingly poor
eating, and as sporting fish are of no account. The sturgeon,
we believe, is found almost every where, and known to almost
every body.

There is a fish found in Florida which we have never seen, but
which, from all the descriptions that we have heard, belongs
either to the trout or basse families. It abounds in all the rivers,
lakes, and springs of this State, is a bold biter, reaches the weight
of fifteen pounds, has a white and sweet flesh, and is taken in
very much the manner employed by northern anglers in captur-
ing the pike, and with similar artificial baits.

We now come to our favourites of the ocean and tide-water
rivers; and the first fish that we mention is the black fish^ or
tautog, as it was called by the Mohegan Indians. It is a stationary
inhabitant of the salt water, and usually found upon reefs and
along rocky shores. It is taken all along the Atlantic coast
between New York and Boston, but it has been known north of
Cape Cod only within a few years; its legitimate home is Long
Island Sound. It is an active, bold, strong, and tough fish,
highly esteemed as an article of food, and, like the cod, is brought
to the principal markets in floating cars, in which confinement
tt 3y are said to fatten. They are by no means a handsome fish,
and their scales are so adhesive as to be taken off" only with the
skin. They are a summer fish, being taken as early as April^

ft.

FISIIINQ IN GI'NERAL.

299

)ut, owing
5d. Their
jT digested,
stomachs.
T powerfid
e Western

y, we will
ose which
lite basse,
1 Virginia
In the
nd sucker,
ingly poor
sturgeon,
to almost

I' seen, but
d, belongs
the rivers,
the weight
s taken iti
in captur-

bide-water
ck fishf or
stationary
reefs and
atic coast
a north of
le is Long
)ugh fish,
s brought
afinement
some fish,
with the
as April^

and no later than October. A three-pounder is considered a good
fish, but we have often taken them weighing ten pounds, and
have seen them weighing fifteen pounds. They are generally
taken with the hand line, and no better bait can be employed
than the lobster or soft crab.

Tlie Sfieepshmd. — This is a thickset but rather handsome fish,
and, for the sweetness of its flesh, highly esteemed. They are
seldom seen in the New York market, but very common in the
Charleston and Mobile markets, from which we infer that tliey
are partial to southern waters. They vary in weight fi:om
three pounds to fourteen ; live exclusively upon shellfish, and
invariably command a high price. They are popular with the
anglers, for they swim in shoals, and are captured with but little
trouble.

Tlie Blue Fish. — The name of this glorious fish reminds us of
the ground swell, and sends through our whole frame a thrill of
pleasure. They are a species of mackerel, attaining in certain places
the weight of a dozen pounds. They swim in shoals, and are
taken with a trolling line and an ivory squid. Oiu: favourite
mode for taking them has ever been from a small boat with a
hand line, though many people prefer taking them from a sail-
boat when running before a breeze. They are quite as active a
fish sis we have ever seen, and the strength of their jaws is so
great that we have known them to bite off a man's finger.
When fresh and fat we consider them quite as delicate as the
real mackerel, and much better than the blj'^k fish. They are
found on the sea-coast as far south as Norfolk (where they are
called tailors), but they are particularly abundant along the
shores of Connecticut and Rhode Island. In some places we
have often found them so numerous, that we have seen a dozen
of them darting after our squid at the same instant. They are
in season during the whole of summer and autumn.

Another capital fish that we have caught " all along shore"
beween New Yoik and Cape Cod, is the weak fish, or squeteague.
It never comes into the fresh water rivers, and usually makes
its appearance about harvest time. Its habits are similar to
those of the striped basse, and in appearance it closely resembles

300

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF NORTH AMERICA.

the ciscovet of Lake Superior. They commonly weigh from
three to five pounds, though they have been taken weighing
nearly ten. They are bold biters, and highly esteemed for their
sweetness.

"With regard to the remaining fish found on our seabord
we are disposed to be brief The mackerel we esteem, and
have had rare sport in taking them, but we look upon them as
the exclusive property of our merchants. The lialibut we ad-
mire, but fear, for he reminds us of one of the most fatiguing
piscatorial adventures we ever experienced, when we hooked a
thirty-pounder in the Atlantic, one hundred miles off Nantucket.
As to the cod, we have only to say that we have caught them
off Nahant by the hundred, and never wish to catch any more;
like the 'mackerel, we consider them the exclusive property of
the mercantile fraternity. With the king Jish and drum we are
wholly unacquainted. The torn cod and Conner or blue perch we
despise, and our antipathy to snakes has always caused us
to avoid the eel. Of the sea basse and paugee, if we knew what
to say, we would indite a long paragraph, for we esteem them
both. As to the shad and sea sturgeon, we shall dismiss them
with an angler's scorn, for they know not what it is to take the
hook. And now that we have reached the bottom of our last
page (devoted to the finny tribes), we are reminded of the very
peculiar but sweet and valuable fish, which are ever found only
at the bottom of the sea — the flounder and flat-fish. Many a
time and oft have we taken them both with the hook and spear,
and we can pay them no higher compliment than by mention-
ing the fact that they are particular favourites with the distin-
guished painter, William S. Mounts Esq., of Long Island.

^ J u,

THE END.

1(*00RQC0DALE AND CO., rRINTERS, XiOinX)^ ■

rcA.

"weigh from
en weighing
ned for their

our seabord
esteem, and
ipon them as
ilihut we ad-
ost fatiguing
we hooked a
[f Nantucket,
caught them
;h any more;
e property of
drum we are
blue perch we
^3 caused us
i^e knew what
esteem them
dismiss them
is to take the
m of our last
3d of the very
Br found only
^sh. Many a
Dok and spear,
a. by mention-
fch the distin-
Island.