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Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent §tre film6s d des taux de rMuction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est film6 d partir de I'angle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 SASKATCHEWAN '- AND THE JIOCKY MOUNTAlxNS. A DIARY AND NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL, SPORT, AND ADVENTURE, DURING A JOURNEY THROUGH THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S TERRITORIES, .: V IN 1859 AND 1860. '■'-'.' ". - - ' : -^i^-- .■■-•;. ^; .: .''i . •■•!l-i ■ ■ ■ '. •'- , . • ■ ■' ■ «•" - . ■■ ■',■-. .y i :»% . -;*' ■■. -v • BY ■•■: --'. • THE EARL OF BUUTHESK. K.T., F.R.G.S. f ^ ^1 " Here feel we but the penalty of Adam, The seasons' difference, as the icy fang And churlish chiding of the winter's wind .... ' And this our life exempt from public haunt Finds tongues in trees, bo > \ J ^.: 1 ( > i .-*'*' .^-^. •7 I: I I 'U\' if U SASKATCHEWAN AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. .i-^ I PHttted by R. &> R. Clark il ''OR EDMONSTON & DOUGLAS, EDINBURGH. LONDON . . . HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. CAMBHIDGR . . MACMILLAN AND CO. GLASGOW . . . JAMBS MACLBHOSB. 1^ s w w t»5 k^ 1 v PREFACE. The foundation of this book is a very carefully-kept journal, for the most part noted down evening by evening over the camp fire, and none of it written, save a sentence or two, at intervals of more than a few days after the occurrences it relates ; so that it has at least the merit of being a true reflex of the thoughts and feelings of the time, as well as a faithful nan'ative of incident, conversation, and adventure. In submitting such a journal to the public, three principal methods of dealing with it at once suggest themselves : — First, To print it as it stands, without omission or change ; Second, To preserve its form, but amend and amplify its diction ; Third, To recast the whole, and frame it into a continuous story. The first of these methods is almost impossible where the diary has not been originally designed for publication, but, formless and uneven, exists as a mere assemblage of ill- balanced notes, abounding in rough disjointed sentences, dry repetitions, and frequent references to matters of a private nature. The third system is that which is now-a-days most in favour, and its advantages are great and evident ; yet it ' frequently leads to many small exaggerations, amounting in the aggregate to a large untruthfulness, and almost certainly removes the freshness and individuality that characterise a %■ • viil rUEFACE. I even tho feeblest of daily recordp ; in the present case, more- over, it would bo more tlmn usually liuzardous, (»\vin<,' to tlio \ risk of any drafts on memory or retrospoctivo fancy, after so long a lapse of time. The second method is generally tho Morst of all ; it is apt to unite the moagreness of the journal with tho inexactness of an after nan-ative, while presenting neither tho i'reshness of tho one, nor tho smoothness and freedom of the other : to work on this system, though sometimes scarcely avoidable, is to invite trouble and run much risk of failure. After careful consideration, T have adopted a mixed plan, seeking as far as may be to combine the advantages of all these methods : I have employed sometimes one of them, sometimes another, varying the manner of my treatment according to the demands of each particular case. My work, as it now stands, has been arranged on tho following general system : — In certain pai^^s, and especially towards the beginning of the volume, I have, with largo omissions, fused my journal into something of tho narrative form, while preserving its order and partially retaining its diction ; but where this has been done, I have endeavoured to make my intention clear, so that the reader may not be cheated into accepting the remarks of to-day as those of fifteen years ago. In other parts, I have followed my notes with some closeness, though not without more or less exten- sive alterations in the i)hraseology and construction. In most parts, however, and especially in the latter half of the volume, I have made a literal, or almost literal, transcript from my diary, marking such extracts, lohcn they occur, hy single inverted commas. Verbal changes, transposition of PREFACE. ix sentences, and sucli-liko trivial amendments, I liavo some- times, though sparingly, admitted, and in certain rare cases I have added a few words to explain or elucidate my meaning ; but with these limitations the passages referred to may bo relied on as actual extracts from the journal, even in portions that might bo fancied too full or elaborate to have formed part of the real diary of a traveller in the wilds. I do not, of course, attach value to the mere diction of my journal, as possessing any merit or importance in itself, but only as affording a guarantee of perfect accuracy so far as tlie writer could compass it. So careful have I been to preserve an exact truthfulness — which to my mind seems more important in a book of travels than picturesque word-painting or luxuriant adornments of style-- that wherever I have offered anything beyond the most slight or obviously recent addition to the material existent in the journal, / Jiave hracketed off such passages, however certain of their acciu'acy, lest some trick of memory should be leading me into con- fusion or mistake. In the Appendix, besides a few miscellaneous papers at the end, I have collected various passages from my diary, which bore but slight relation to the main story, while from their length, character, or position, they tended to impede its progress. Being chiefly memoranda on Shakespearian and theological subjects, — with recent additions, expanded in the case of Hamlet almost into an essay, — they are little calculated, I fear, to interest the majority of readers ; some, nevertheless, may consider them worth perusal ; and for different reasons I was desirous to preserve those portions of my work, though vi?-- PEEFACE. relegating them to a place where they need not be found unless sought for. It was no definite purpose of mine to gather notes on subjects of a scientific nature, nor closely to record the geo- graphical features of the country through whicli I travelled ; where, however, details of that class do happen to occur, I have thought it best to give them as they actually stand, without attempting to improve them by private collation with the valuable works on the same part of northern America, which have appeared since the date of my journey, — every collation throughout the volume being distinctly pointed out, and very carefuUy acknowledged * Superior in various important respects as some of these works must undoubtedly be to mine, — composed as they were by men of science attached to exploring expeditions organised by the British and Canadian Governments, — I cannot but remember that my information, however cursorily noted, was either gained by personal observation, or from sources so good, that, in cases of differ- ence (and a few such there may be), it is by no means impossible that I am in the right, and the more qualified author in the wrong. At all events, in such cases a com- parison would be worth the making ; so I have left the means of making it, instead of seeking to prevent disparities by the invasion of another man's store, whenever his materials seemed better than those collected by myself • I specially refer to the Reports by Captain Palliser's expedition, and to the books or Keports by Mr. Hind, Lord Hilton, Captain Butler, and the Rev. Mr. Grant. While my book owes exceedingly little to any of these more recent publicntigns, it is very largely indebted to Sir John Richardson's admir- able Fauna Borcali-Amerkana (1829-31), from which (as will be seen) I have taken nearly all the zoological details that occur in the footnotes and elsewhere. PREFACE. xi As regards tlie maps which appear in this volume, the larger of the two — comprising my general route through the Hudson's Bay Company's Territories — sufficiently speaks for itself, subject to the explanation that it has been prepared by the Messrs. Keith Johnston, with special reference to the aspect of the country, in its boundaries, settlements, railways, etc., as existing at the period of my journey, — viz. in the years 1859 and 1^860. The smaller map, however, — illustrative of my route while travelling in the Eocky Mountains, — demands perhaps more particular notice ; as I am personally accountable, not only for its arrangement, but for the details of a certain portion of the country, never before (nor probably since) visited by any European. On these points it may be noted, that the outlines of the map in question — ^which are of my own framing — have been composed by adjustment from the principal maps in the Blue Books relating to Captain Palliser's Expedition ; and that the newly explored valleys are laid down from a sketch made by me in 1860, while the memory of the localities was still fresh in my mind. I regret that circumstances should have prevented me from forming a better record of my explorations than a mere approximate sketch, — for even on unimportant subjects ac- curacy will often prove to be of value, — but, such as it is, I offer it as some small tribute to the treasury of geographical knowledge. As regards the illustrations, whether on separate pages or attached to the letterpress of the work, the greater number of these are derived from my own sketches and drawings ; the <*^ Xll PREFACE. exception entirely consisting in those which have been repro- duced from photographs, or founded on them with some slight alteration. To the former class belong all, save one, of the illustrations of scenery, every example of which may be relied on as a truthful though imperfect portrayal of Nature, — notwitli- standing the roughness of my drawings, and the marvellous improvement in all artistic qualities which they have sustained under Mr. Whymper's skilful hand. To the latter class must be referred the various repre- sentations of animals' heads, taken from skulls and stuffed specimens in my possession; also several relating to other objects — viz., Bed River Fire-bags, — Cree Whip, — Edmonton Hunter's Dag, — Assiniboine Fire-bag, Knife-slieath, and Pipe, — all of which are engraved from excellent photographs by Mr. Eodgers, of Montrose ; and in addition to these the view of Minnehalia Falls, by Mr. Whitney, a St. Paul photographer, the only landscape for which my own pencil is not originally responsible. Most of the smaller and less elaborate illustrations belong to the former of these classes, being facsimiles, or nearly so, of pen-and-ink memoranda hastily sketched into my journal ; the exceptions are as follows : — Buffalo-hide Line, — Whishj, — Snow-sJwe and Skida, — sketches only recently prepared by me expressly for the present volume. T will not add to an already lengthened preface, by attempt- ing to detail the causes which are answerable for so many years' delay in the publication of these travels, nor by seeking to account for, or excuse, their publication at all under such PREFACE. xm unusual circumstances — the work must vindicate itself, or fail ; but, having offered the explanations tliat seemed abso- lutely needful, I now submit my book to the courteous reader, in the hope that, whatever the extent of its imperfections, it may still be found to possess some degree of interest, and to afford some new information in regard to a country not yet superfluously depicted and described. [It may be well to inform the reader that the word Saskatcheivan ' is pro- nounced with a strong accent on the second syllable — thus, Sas-katcli-e-wiin. ERRATA AND ADDENDA. rages 16, 17, 87, 88, for "Dr." Kichanlson read "Sir John" Ricliard- son. Page 16, line 8 of footnote, for " Mr. " Sabine, rcrtrf "Sir Edward" Sabine. ,, 16, line 2 from bottom of page, /or " Tctrao Phasimidhis, the adnlt male of which is described," read " Ccntrocercus PhasiancUus, the adult male of which is stated to be sixteen inches in length, while the Pinnated Grouse is described : " and page 17, Mne 8 from bottom of page, before " Phasianelliis" insert " (Centrocercus)." Pages 26, 27, insert accent over "Kiviferes." Page 27, line 11, after " M'Intosh " insert " [? Mackenzie. See p. 355.] " ,, 66, line 1 of footnote, /or " MayJutgan'^ read '^ Mahaijgan." „ 76, line 15, /or "whence" read "where." ,, 86, lines 1 and 2 of footnote, for " Mesaskatomena " read " Misas- katomina; "/or Vol. I. read Vol. II. ; for "Aronia ovalis" read " Amelanchier ovalis. Aronia ovalis — Rich, in Frankl." ,, 95, line 3 from bottom, /or "rifle-bullet " read " heavy bullet." „ 103, bottom line of page, for " 291 " read " 281." 137, line 1,/or «31st" read "30th. ,, line 3 from bottom of page, for "tainted" read "scented." 167, line 3 from bottom, for " model " read " medal." 200, line 9, insert accent over "(pic." 221, line 5 from bottom, /or "Encrinites" read " Bclemnites." 233, line 2 from bottom, after "humble" insert "gentle :" and line 3 of following page, strike out " of " before " whatsoever." 249, line 22, /or "half-dozen" read "half-a-dozen." 265, line 2 of footnote, /or "Wapoos" read "Wawpoos." 287, lines 5 and 6 of footnote, read " Sussee " and " Chippeway " as in italics. 294, lines 2, and 1 of footnote, for "travaux" "travail," read "travailles" "travaille." 316, title of woodcut, /or "Skidou" read "Skida." 370, line 4 of footnote, before "chief" insert "deceased." 386, footnote, for " 271 " read " 228." 388, line 3 from bottom, /or "intimation" read "indication." 391, line 20, /or "grim" read "your." 3t»3, line 21, /or "strong-headed" read "strong-handed." 405, lino 19, for " I inhabit Ihce " rmd " I inhibit thee." 413, line 18, for "There's Hector . . . there's a fellow," read " Tliafs llei-tor, tliiil, that, look you, that ; tlicre's a fellow I " »> »> CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. NIAGARA, LACHINE, ST. PAUL, CROW-WING. (April 15 to May 19.) Good Sport and Healthy Climate required — Mr. E suggests the Hudson's Bay Country — The Journey decided on — Voyage to America — Sir James Anderson — New York — The Delaware Valley — Beautiful Seneca Lake — Niagara — A Visit to the Falls — Hudson's Bay House, Lachine — Sir George Simpson — Departure for the Far West — Toronto — Mr. Paul Kane — Dr. Eae : his Arctic Journey — Western Men — Lake Michigan — Germans in Chicago — Aspect of the Country — The Mississippi Steamer — St. Paul, Minnesota — Rumours of Floods — Start for Crow-wing, but return — James M'Kay, the Red River Guide : his characteristics — Captain Blakiston — Purchase of Horses, Waggon, etc. — " Morgan " and " Vermont " — The Minnehaha Falls — Leave St. Paid — "Hyperborean Hotel" — Decline a Half- broke Runner — Crow-wing City . . . Pages 1-12 CHAPTER II. CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY, (May 20 to June 1.) Morning Start for the Wilderness — Happy Spring-tide — Men, Horses, and Vehicles — Portage of Miry Creek — Camp by the Crow-wing River — Boat-tents — The Prairie-hen : Queries as to its name and designation — A drunken Ojibway — Dangerous meeting with Les Pillageurs — Prairie in Flames — Lake Forty-four — Pelicans — Clouds of minute Flies — Breakfast-fire spreads — Fine View from Height-of- Land — A Waterspout — Violent Thunderstorm — Night Scene in a ; ■I i r I! XVI CONTENTS. Flooded Tent — Cross Rice River in a Cart-wheel Scow- Energy — Wet and Weary Ride — Bittern-shooting — " Running " M'Kay's a Bear — " Blucher " — Crossing of Red Lake River — An American Pedlar — Mosquitoes in force : their Venom — Pigeon-stalking by Pine River — Frogs and Cranes and Doleful Swamps — Isolated feel- ings on a Vast Plain — Pembina — Tlie Fort and its Fare — Uproar of Indians — Origin of term Saulteaux — The Vieux Marais — A Woolly Horse and a Skew-bald Pony — A Settler's Cottage — Crossings of Red River — Ai-rival at Fort Garry . . . Pages 13-29 CHAPTER III. FORT GARRY. (June 1 to 14.) Description of Fort Garry — Party at Dinner — Mr. Boyd — Sir George Simpson and Mr. Hopkins leave for Norway House — Notice of Sir George Simpson's Death — Distribution of Red River Population — Visit to the Nunnery — Dress of the Sisters — The Cathedrals and Churches — Prevalence of the Scottish Race — St. James's, on the Assiniboine — The Church and Parsonage — A Portrait of the Queen — ^The " Ans Northup," the first Steamer seen on Red River — Indian Spectators — Encampment of Crees — Preparations for Expedition completed — The Men that formed the party — Vehicles, Stores, and Provisions — Horses — Guns and Rifles . . Pages 30-39 CHAPTER IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. (June 15 to 27.) Expedition sets out — White Horse Plains — A Summer Morning's Concert — Purchase " Blond " and "^La Framboise " — Sunday Halts— An Unwholesome Camp — Mr. Simpson's Visit — Rumours of Indian Warfare — Purchase "Bichon,"a Buffalo-runner — Destruction anions the Trees — A " Lob-stick " — Picturesqneness of the Hunters — Tlieir Wives— A handsome Half-breed Girl — Spanish Saddle — The Insect Pest — The Retriever tliat would not retrieve — Characteristics /■ CONTENTS. XVI 1 of the Men — Tlie Little Saskatchewan — Meaning of word Saskatch- ewan — ^•" Vermont " — Mischances — Death of a Skunk — The Loon on Shoal Lake — Re-arrange Armament — Vale of the Assiniboine — Fort EUice — Mr. M'Kay — Fresh Tongues — Indian Visitors — Route determined on — Numme engaged as Quide — Four Buffalo Calves ...... Pages 40-62 CHAPTEE V. FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. (June 28 to July 3.) Additional Stores — " Pointer " the Pointer — Pierre Numm6 portrayed — Tent-life, its Charms and Harms — ^Travelling Cree and his Wife — Target-practice — Nummd doctors his Gun — A fragrant Camp — A Wolf wounded — Cabree-hunting — Nummd's Cutting-up Feat — The Cabree described — Great Creek — The Lake of the Valley — Short's Skill with Gun and Bow — An Indian Emissary — Party from Qu'appelle Fort — Indian Horsemanship — Mr. Cardinal — Smoking Party at Qu'appelle Fort — Visited by Ojibways — ^Visit their Camp — " Spots-in-the-pky " and " Pointed-cap : " their different Be- haviour — Cree Whip — ^A Yellow-faced Indian — ^Dog-train astonishes the Ponies — ^A beautiful Sunset . . . Pages 53-64 CHAPTER VI. qu'appelle fort to the INDIAN ELBOW. (July 4 to 8.) Departure from Qu'appelle Fort — " Hector " condemned and executed — A prowling Wolf — Varieties of the American Wolf — A Cabree shot — The Qu'appelle Valley — Origin of the name Qu'appelle — " Buffalo Chips" — Quirk, Gammon, and Snap — Wolf invades the Camp — White Cranes — Stony Valley — Character of the Country — Tiger- lilies and Blue-bells — Chorus of young Wolves — Chase of a white Wolf— Furnace-like Heat — The Sandy Hills — Cree notions about Heaven and Hell — " Pointer " in Fits — Bull-dog Flies — Sufferings of poor " Bichon " — " Bichon " and " Wawpooss," their Whims and Oddities — A Saline Draught — Good AVater and Wild Garlic Pages 65-74 XVlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. INDUN ELBOW TO CROSSING OF SOUTH BllANCII. (July 9 to 13.) The Elbow of the South Saskatchewan : its Character and Scenery— The Aiktow River — Mr. Hind on the " Elbow " : its Angle and its Water-width discussed — Feasibility of junction between Saskat- cliewan and Qu'apjJelle — Recent Site of a great Indian Camp — Exjjlore uiJ-stream — Settle on Route — Nuranic and his Contract — Banks of the Saskatchewan — Death of an aged Buffalo — Run a Bull, and shoot him — Indian Magic ; " Medicine Tent" : Conjuring : Second Sight: Charming a Gun — Fine Cabree Shot — Its Horns — Charged by a Buffalo Bull — His Death — Another Bull Slain, and falls into River — A Wolf-chase on Foot — A Swim — Saskootoom Berries — Preparations for Crossing — Skin Canoes — Catlin on " Bull- boats" — Bait-fishing — Fish that inhabit the Saskatchewan — White Pages 76-88 Fish in the Lakes CHAPTER VIII. SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO CHERRY BUSH. (July 14 to 18.) Crossing of the South Saskatchewan — Swimming of the Horses — Traces of an Indian Camp — Wild Strawberries — An unfrequented Route — A sacrifice of Bull-dogs — Eagle Creek — Bad Habits of the Horses — Vast Herd of Buffaloes — The American Bison, its names, weight, and size — Arrangements for a Hunt — Tlie Start — Wawpooss gives in — Shoot a fine Cow — Long Chase of a Bull — In the midst of the Herd — Death of the Bull — Numme in Ambush — Horns of the Bull — Catlin on Buffido-" wallows " — Old Bull pierced with fourteen Bullets — Mistaken for Blackfeet — Alarming Invasion — Tait and his men — Scarcity at the Forts — Wolves routed by Moonlight — Marrow- bone Game — Sleeping Wolf lapidated — Stalk Buffaloes on foot — Bulls dangerous in the Rutting Season — Tents struck — Over the Roasting Hills — A Badger — "Black" turns restive — A Buffalo- charmer — Cherry Bush — Visit from Tait and his Child — Napesskes — The Buffalo Ox — Run two Cows — " Bichon " lands on his Head Pages 89-107 CONTENTS. XIX CHAPTER IX. CHERRY BUSH, THE HAD HILL, FORT CARLTON. (July 19 to 26.) Departure for a Bear-hunt — Napeaskea in his best — Plains alive with Buffalo — The Bad Hill — Anecdote of Indian killed by Bear — Search for Grislies — A " Roe " — Female Bear and her Cub — Wound a Male Grisly — The Black-tailed Deer — Exploration of the Bad Hill — Eagle Hill Creek, its position on Map— Buffalo-stalking — Bull protects Cow — Scarcity of pure Water — Search for the wounded Grisly — Hideousnesa of a Skinned Bear — Leave the Bad Hill — New- born Calf and its Mother — Old Buffalo Bulls like Lions — Another Ox — A long Running-shot — Carving out a Set of Harness — Hide- Lines — The last Run — "Morgan" goes well — Shoot a savage Cow — Wolves chase a Calf — The Prairie Wolf described — Roaring of Buffaloes — Buffalo-meat — Industry of Indian Women — Fashion in Beads — The Revolver unsatisfactory — Half-breed manner of loading — Visit of Crees from their great Camp— Blackfoot War-parties reported — End of the Hunt — Success considered good — Tents struck — Elbow of the North Saskatchewan — Iron-ore Spring — Encamp near Fort Carlton — Invitation from Mr. Hardisty — Drunken Indians in the Camp ..... Pages 108-128 CHAPTER X. FORT CARLTON TO FOR." EDMONTON. (July 26 to August 10.) Ride to the "Horse-guard" — Parklike Landscape — Napesskes on a three-year-old — Numme's keen eye for Number One — The Store — The Rum got rid of— Visit to Mrs. Tait — Present of Leather Hunt- ing-shirt from Mr. Hardisty — The Fort described — Indian Women — Cross the North Saskatchewan — "Pointer" and the Musquitoes — Fertile Plains — Prevalence of Poplars — A cracked Meerschaum — The fat Dog " Whisky " — Cries of wild Animals — A Cart upsets — " Lane's" Breaking-in— Smell of the Skunk : Hearne's Notes thereon —Jack-fish Lake— A Wolf wounded— Sunday at White Mud Lake zz CONTENTS. in — Lagrace appears — A bunit Prairie — " Wawpooss " comes down — Ilorso Hill — Fort Pitt — Messrs. Macaulay and Sinclair — The Dog nuisance — To the Horse-gnard — Mr. Rowland — Exchanges — The two Cendrtis — Mr. Sinclair takes leave of his favourite — Fitting Horse-shoes — M'Kay shoots a largo Wolf — Smoke-fires for the Horses — Black Mud Hill — A tame little Bird — Meet Mr. Hind — " Rowlund " thinks himself in Hobbles — A magnificent Sunset Pages 129-146 CHAPTER XL FORT EDMONTON. (August 11 to 16.) Arrival at Edmonton — Mr. Brazeau — Rev. Mr. Woolsey — The Fort and its Environs — Mountain Journey planned out — Cree Syllabic Cha- racters — An ;£ 1 8,000 Subscription^ — A Cree Idiom — A Blackfoot stripped of his Goods — Authenticity of Catlin's Indian Portraits — Town Critics on " Travellers' Tales " — Intrusive Dogs — Indian Dogs described — " Mihekan" — Sleigh-dogs in Summer — Missionary Success among the Kootanies — A Blackfoot Chief on Polygamy — Comments thereon — Father De Smet, with Comments — The red-dun Horse : its Hieroglyphics — Sunday Services — A Laughable Interruption — Native Music — Horsemanship of Indian Boys — Antoine Blandoine engaged as Guide — Lapatilque and the Fusees — Pe-toh-pee-kiss, the Blackfoot Warrior : his Adventure with Mr. Vanderbirt — ^Treachery of Bridger — Spaniard's Infant can'ied off — The Blackfeet : their three Tiibes — Blood Indians — Cree and Blackfoot peculiarities — Scarcity of Half-breeds in United States — Unchastity of Indian AVomen — Piskan Munroe required as Interpreter — Edmonton Hunter's " Dag " . . . . . Pages 147-165 CHAPTER XH. FOllT EDMONTON TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. (August 17 to 31.) Departure from Edmonton — First Frosts of Autumn — Meet Mr Moberly : his advice as to Route — The Mission at St. Ann — Pro- CONTENTS. ui tcstant and Roman Catholic Missionaries — Order ond Comfort at the Mission-House. Its Books and Pamphlets — Purchases of Horses — Lac des Isles — Horrible Roads — The Pembina and its Scenery — IJuffalo Creek — Meadow formed by Beavers — Struggle through Thickets — The Party dressed in Leather — Rifle-practice at Pigeons and " Partridges " — The Spotted Grouse — First Sight of the Mountains — An Iroquois Family — " Muskegs " and narrow Tracks — Difficulties — Fatigues — Disturbance of a Wasp's Nest — Roast Skunk — Gastro- nomic Details excusable — Immense Firs and Poplars — The River M'Leod — Wife of Pierre the Iroquois — Her pied Mare : its Bells — Sheep Pemnucan — Sun-light on a burnt Pine-forest — Through Woods and Bogs — Glimpse of two Mountain Peaks — La Rivitre d'Embarras — " Whisky " and Water — Sancho Panza of Dogs — Full view of the Rocky Mountains — Antoine's Enthusiasm — Gun-covers — Iroquois Hunters and their Horses — Illness of Pierre's Baby: successful Doctor- ing — Indian Ideas of the Aurora — Horse-dealing — " Jasper " — " Moutonne " — Poor " Crerne " — Part from Pierre — " Jasper's " Merits — Cross the Embarras thirty-seven times — The M'Leod Valley — Assiniboine Camp-sites — Horses among fallen Timber — Separate Camp-fires begun — The Red River Men ; their general goodness of Conduct ..... Pages 166-188 CHAPTER XIII. MEDICINE TENT RIVER AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. (September 1 to 10.) The Rocky Mountains — Antoine makes a Fishing-rod — Arthur's Seat — Axe-work necessary — Camp in a deep Glen — Wild Sheep at a dis- tance — The Mountain " Whistler" — Ground-Squirrels — Climb after a White Goat — Siffleur Meat — Medicine Tent River — Mount Lindsay — The Mountains of Rock : the Rivers : the Trees — Sudden Changes of Temperature — Camp near a Waterfall — The Dusky Grouse — Climb the Height-of-Land — Raise a Cairn — " Pointer " and the Porcupine — Grisly seen — Unsuccessful Chase — ^Tvvo Siffleurs shot — Length of their Skins — Antoine's quaint Rifle — Shoot several Ewes — Mimroe brings in a Ram's Head — Toma and the " Saw-mill " — Mark name on Tree — Description of the View — Head Streams of Athabasca and North Rivers — Southesk's Cairn — Enter North River Valley — The xxu CONTENTS. " Brigade " ou March : its Moinbors describuil — Sliuut Ewes ami old Uania— Short niccta a Bear — The way to encounter a Grisly — The I'luna — Tea veriua StiinuluntH — Shoot several Rams — The Wild Sheep described — A perilous Slide — A (Ino Ilani leaps from u Rock — " Arranging " the Slain — Dimensions of six Rams' Heads — Rellec- tions on Slaughter of large Game — Snow-storm — Meditations — "Titus Andronicus" — Climb Mountain Spur — Weary walk in the Dark —Character of the Rocks— Fossils . . Pages 189-221 i:l^ CHAPTEK XIV. \h> NORTH RIVER CAMP TO KOOTANIE PLAIN. (September 11 to 18.) Mount Dalhousie — " Painted Lady " Butterflies — The Piping Crow — Vast Precipices like blocks of Masonry — A Meteor, and a Moonlight Scene — Counter-marches — Differences adju.sted — Lances of the Forest — Sudden Death of a Horse — White Goats — On the Cliffs in Dark- ness — Search for a Pass — The Ptarmigan — Difficult Travelling — Horses dragged up an Ice-bank — Track lost — Over Hcight-of-Land between North River and North Saskatchewan — Small green Marmots — Robe of 125 Skins — Shoot five Ewes — About Moccasins — Art- instinct of the Savage — John Wesley's breadth of view — Long March «lown a Glen — Pearly-grey Precipices — The Flying-S nitii Stony Union Huinniit of Moun- tain- A Nfoose [nax^Ul I'roni ihu IndiiuiH — Scriptunil l*aMsat,'eH copieil out— II. II .. hought nml exchanged — rruHuntrt to ihu Wivo8— Chil- ilnn pliiy witli yoiiiiy Horses — A (.'onsnniiitivo I'aticnt — Tho Knifed Grouse- "The Mountain wlcre the Water IUUh" — Letter in Cree Byllabic charaiter»~Uow Kiver Vale : its lino Tiniher — DuHtriutiou of Trees in America — The Destroyers denounced — Gale of Wind : Camp in a Wood — Moose-nose for Dintier . Pages 230-251 CIIAPTKlt XVI. OLD now FOllT TO FORT EDMONTON. (October 1 to 10.) Arrival at Old Bow Fort — Joy at leaving the ^fountains — Their Alti- tude — Height of Mount Murchison- Drawbacks to Sport — Qloom of the Deep Valleys — Vestiges of Bnlfalo — Decrease of their numher — The Stonies — "Bounding Deer" — Ford the River on "Jasper" and "Moutonne" — Trout — Tremendous Gale — Tent falls — Find remains of Carts — Carts and Harness made — Camp of Assinilioines : their Hynui-singing : their (dd Preacher — Trouhhssome Dogs — Worthiness of the Mountain Indians : Present promised to them — Her Majesty's Image — Horses exchanged — Again on the Mart4i — A really pretty Indian AVoman — Party of American Travellers — Mutual Aid — Indian Imi)rovidence — Musk-rats — Wild Swans — Cross lied Deer River — The American Hare — Run a Pdack Bear — Notes on Sand-rats — Cross Battle River — Pike Creek : Beaver Dams and felled Trees — A Foal emerges from the Thicket— Cloud Scenery — A well-seen Dinner — White Mud River — Arrive at Fort Edmon- ton — Mr. Christie — Civilised Comforts — Reports by Captain Palliser's Men — Parting with Antoine — Account of Horses kept, lost, etc. — Letter and Present to the Mountain Assiniboines — Their sub- scc^uent Sad Fate — Arrangements for further Journey — Amusing Intrusion of two Blackfeet — Announcement of the Api)roacli of their Tribe Pages 252-27'2 JfXlV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. FORT EDMONTON TO FORT PITT. (October 17 to November. 7. ) Down the Saskatchewan — Melancholy — The Harbingers of Winter — The Crew of the " Golden Era " — " Whisky's " Desertion— Snow- storm — Intensity of cold — Frozen in — Messengtrs sent to Fort Pitt — Captain Palliser threatened by the Blackfeet — Wearisome Detention — Iced Blankets — Remarks on Lord Lytton's My Novel — On Shakespeare's balanced Characters — Ou Scott's blemished Heroes — Milder Weather — On Historical Truth in Poetry — On Taciturn Heroes in Fiction — Monotonous Life in Camp — Deliverance at last — Sufferings and Courage of Matheson and Short — Journey resumed — The Art of Endurance — The 5th of November — Wapiti seen — Meet Messrs. Chastellain and Isbister — Fort Pitt — Scarcity of Provisions there — Disease among Horses — Agricaltuial Capabilities — Colony on the Saskatchewan suggested — Position of Fort Pitt : a centre of Hosti- lities — Incident of Cree and Blackfoot Warfare — The Blackfoot Con- federacy — Smalljjox Epidemic in 1870— Characteristics of Indian Languages — A Blood Indian Woman's Dress — Indian love for Rum — Value of Horses — Fight between Grisly Bear and Buffaloes — Anecdote Pages 273-291 ^S7 of Grisly Bear and two Indian Hunters CHAPTER XVm. FORT PITT TO FORT CARLTON. (NoveinbiT 8 to 19.) Departure from Fort Pitt — Winter Attire — Horse-sleds — Mr. Isbister's Dog-team — Peril of an old Indian Woman — Stalk Buffalo at Horse Hill — Txxrtle River — Meat from a Hunter's Stage — Winter Trans- formations of a Landscape— On the Ice of Jack-fish Lake —A starving little Indian Dog — Thirty below Zero — Meet the "Green Hands" — Fiery Light on Snow-clad Hills — Blinding Snow-storm: Track oljliterated — Salt Lake — Buffaloes seen — Innumerable Lakes — Arrival at Fort Carlton — " Morgan " and "Vermont" — Exchanging til ! CONTENTS. XXV of Horses — " Ned," the Blackloot Pony — Noosing Horses — Choking of a wild White Mare — Fifty-four below Zero — Leave Fort Carlton — Mr. Hardisty— Cordial Farewells . . Pages 292-300 CHAPTER XIX. FORT CARLTON TO TOUCHWOOD HILLS. (November 20 to 29.) Cross the South Saskatchewan — Country seems fit for Settlement — " Berry Pemmican " — Pemmicau characterised — Unreasonableness of Indian Horses — " Conciliation " — " Ode to Eae Wilson, Esq." — Exhortations to Horses — Cendrd strays — An Ancient Family's Doom — Tent-pitching — Fire-building and Fuel — Explosiveness of Poplar Logs — Fox-running in the Snow — A timely Header — When Fur is " prime " — The Preparation of Buffalo Robes — Two False Suns — Benighted on a bare Plain — Arrival in the dark at Touchwood Hills — Mr. Taylor — European News — Snow-storm — Comfort at the Fort — Danger incurred when at the " Elbow " — Crees and Blackfeet at War — Savage Trophies — Re])ort of Jilurder of the Party by Blackfeet Pages 301-311 CHAPTER XX. TOUCHWOOD HILLS TO FORT PELLY. (November 30 to December 8.) Leave Touchwood Hills Fort—" Jasper " left behind : his Death — Intensity of the Cold — Agamemnon's Speech — Power of Shake- speare's words to strengthen the Spirit — First Trial of Snow-shoes — Horses unfit for Winter Travelling— Cold crushes Fire— Half-way to Fort Pelly — A Winter Bill of Fare — Snow-shoes described — Lap- land Skidor — Slightly Frost-bitten — Sufferings of the Horses — Two of them give out — Farewell to Cendru ! his sixccessful Struggle — The Guide Frost-bitten— On Gratitude and Ingratitude — True Prayer not a demand — Ceiidre t;to])s again — Camp by the Assiuiboine — Fiui' Spruces- Narrow Esl;i|k' i'u,m u fallingTree— Uidc to Pi-lly Missiion-hou^c — Mi. Murray's Duji-eaiioh: Pages 312-321 'I ! In xxvi CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXI. FORT TELLY. (Decoiuber 9 to 26.) Site and Aspect of Fort Pelly — The Peaceable Saulteaux — The River Assiniboine — Loril Lytton's "Haunters and Haunted" — Horses, Cattle, and Farm — Sunday Service — The Rev. Mr. Settee — John Newton — Slow Evangelisation of the Indians — Game in the District — Manners and Customs of the Wolverine — Old " Clippy " — The Company's dealings with the Indians — Spirits not a medium of Barter — " Regales " — Distinction between the Company's position in the Northern and Southern Districts — A Mulatto's Birthday — An Indian objects to the Missionaries' Paradise — A Woman's Grave — Her drunken Husband — A Mourner in the Mountains — Indians: their liability to Illness — Their " Medicine-men " bad Physicians but good Surgeons — Anecdote of two Trappers slain by Sioux — Controversy between a Catholic and a Protes-lant — Bitterness worse than false Doctrine — Unsuccessful Beaver-hunt — Beaver Meat — Artificial Boundaries unsatisfactory — Probable future Boundary between British Territory and the States — Lake Winipeg and the North Saskatchewan the true Route from Canada to the Pacific — Mr. Pages 322-333 Dawson's Map — Conuuunion Service at the Fort CHAPTER XXH. roRT TKLLY TO FORT GARRY. (Dcet'iiiber 27, 1859, to January 8, 18C0.) Dc'iiarture from Fort Pelly — M'Kay and Short remain — Dng-carioli! and Dog-sleds — Kline becomes Guide — Accident to M'Beath : his Uncle joins an early Breakfast — Mid-winter at the ^lackeiizic River — Kline's Snow-shoes — Frost beside Fire : Icicles on "Othello" — Crossing of Swim Luke — Clieck to a Frost-bite- -I'^iiciunpmcnt among snow-clad Pines — The Old Year buried, and tin.- New Year born — On Lake Winnepagos— A Team of Indian Dugs — The Driver's Voia- CONTENTS. xxvu biliary — Cruelties practised on Sleigh-dogs — Interpose on their behalf — Duck Bay — The Log-house and its Conifoit — Winnepagos crossed — Peninsula between it and Lake Manitobah — A Saulteaux buried alive there — Martyrdom of a Roman Catholic Priest — Rough Roads on Frozen Lakes — Meet Le Rond — Sir Francis Sykes — Hate- I'ulness of Carriole travelling — Manitobah Fort — Lakes Winnepagos and Manitobah : their Extent and Character — Parts of the former Saline — Mr. Monkman's Hospitality — A warm Room— Oak Point — Roman Catholic Mission-house — Loiterers by the Way — Hardihood of Kline and Taylor — Eighteen Hours' Journey to White Horse Plains— Costume of the Half-breeds— Settlers' Architecture — Mr. Rowand's handsome House — James M'Kay in his Cariole — Arrival at Fort Garry Images 334-350 CHAPTER XXIII. FOllT GARRY. (January 9 to 24.) Society of Old Friends — Bishop's Court — " The Nor'-Wester : " the first Newspaper published in the Settlement — The License Laws — Meeting on Religious Revivals — Address the Meeting ; Errors of some Revivalists : George Herbert quoted — Christianity among the Assiuiboines — Rev. Mr. Woolsey's Letter — Mr. Mackenzie lost in the Snow : his Funeral — Service at the Protestant Cathedral — Rev. Mr. Black of the Free Church — Laws against selling Spirits to Indians — Agriculture — Cattle — ^Marshes — Drainage — Scarcity of Wood — Labour — Scottish and French Half-breeds : their characteristics, moral and i>hysical — Scottish Settlers — Population almost halved between Protestants and Roman Catholics — Population of Province of Manitobah in 1872 — English Settlers and their Wives — The Editors of the " Nor'-Woster" — !M'Kay and Short arrive from Fort Pelly — Service in St, James's, on llie Assiniboine — Infantine Distuvb- ancos in Churcli — Take leave of the Red River Men — Farewell Coninicndations — Tlie Bishop of Rupert's Land and Miss Anderson — ;Mr. Mactavish : Sorrowful Notice of his Death Pagis 351-305 I I I II ! 1 u xxviii CONTENTS. . . .., CHAPTER^ XXIV. ^ . ,F.0]J'j:,(3A,RRY T-9^ ENGLAND. '•"■'" (January 25 to February 19.) Departure from Fort Garry — Mr. Fortescue — Sheet of Electrical Flame from Buffalo-robes — Kline makes a long Day's Journey — Pembina — Supper and Ball at M. Eolette's — Snake Eiver : Trees cracking from Frost — Arrive at Otter-tail City — Hospitably received by Colonel Sawyer — Lake Otter-tail : the Source of Red River — Leaf Lake City — Eclipse of the Moon — Crow-wing City — Larue's Tavern — " Hole-in-the-day," the Ojibway Chief : his Drunkenness and his Wealth — His warlike Predecessor — Crow-wing to St. Paul — Arrival at New York — Hospitable Friends — Sir Edward Cunard offers a Passage in the " Etna" — Sir James Anderson — Voyage Home Pages 366-371 APPENDIX. Remarks on " The Winter's Tale " . "Hamlet" "Macbeth" . " Merchant of Venice " „ "OtheUo" Comments on a Sermon Reflections on Patience and God's Providence Comments on Bunsen's " Ilippolytus " Letter from Rev. Thomas Woolsey . » I'AIJE 373 374 403 406 409 413 415 417 420 irical Flame — Pembina es cracking received by ver — Leaf le's Tavern es8 and liis il — Arrival ,rd offers a [ome js 366-371 INSTITUTE. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. SEPARATE ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. / Mount Dalhousie — North River Valley Survey and Eye-sketch op The Elbovt . Head of a Buffalo Bull Frontispiece. To face page 77 96 The Rocky Mountains, from the Embarras River Mount Lindsay — near Medicine Tent River . View from Camp in Medicine Tent Valley PACE 373 S Head of a Rocky Mountain 374 M. 403 s 406 fl ENGRAVING 409 413 m Minnehaha Falls 415 'm Waterspout 417 S Cart-wheel Scow 420 |H Red River Fire-bag 'w/L A Lob-stick M Half-breed's Spanish Saddle \m Cree Pattern ^» Ceee Whip ^1 Head of a Cabree ..f^ Skin-canoe Frames 180 193 201 215 PAGE 11 21 23 39 44 45 59 64 83 88 M IL XXX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Skull of a Buffalo Ox . Buffalo-hide Line Edmonton Hunter's Dao Skunk Roasting Wooden Spur .... Whisky . . . . . Mountain in" Medicine Tknt Valley AssiNiDoiNE Pipe and Stem ASSINIBOINE KnIFE-SuEATH AND FlRE-BAG Snow-shoe and Skida Kline's Snow-shoes Red River Fire-bag LITHOGRAPHS. Letter from the Mountain Assiniboines Cree Syllabic Characters PAdE lOG 120 1G5 175 176 179 194 258 2G1 316 335 350 To face imcjc 250 422 MAPS. Sketch Map of part of the Rocky Mountains To face pa«5. niAi'. I. ST. I'AUL, C1K)VV-WIN(}. 3 wo had chosen in jneterenco to tlit udsoii lliver route. I know not if we judged rightly, hut at the time we saw no reason whatever to regret our choice. ' The Erie line is very hoautit'ul ' — so runs my journal. . . . ' 1 stood on the platforjn outside the carriage for more than an hour, as we went up tjie Delaware vale, where the scenery is lovely — river, rock, and hill, and endless forest, broken only along the water-side by settlements and partial clearings. ' After leaving Elniira we came to the Seneca Lake, — long and narrow, like a vast river, with its clear blue water bounded by hills disi)laying well-arranged farms, mingled with woodlands so skilfully disposed by nature as to seem as if placed by the hand of some wonderful landscape-gardener. The sun shone gloriously, and I thought that a more en- chantuig scene of placid, smiling loveliness had never met my eyes.' May 3d. — Having passed the previous night at Ilochester, the farthest ])oint the trains enabled us to reach, we only arrived at Niaga.ra about 11 o'clock. The Clifton Hotel was not open, so we took rooms at the ^lonteagle, a uewly-estab- lishcd hotel near the Suspension IJridge, and then set forth on our expedition to behold the wonders of the mighty cata- ract. ' We looked down from Table Kock, we climbed under the Canadian Fall, we visited the burning well, crossed over at the ferry, stood at the foot of the American Fall, explored Goat Island, and ascended Prospect Tower. ..... As to the Falls themselves, I was neither greatly astonished nor much disappointed. Guided by drawings and descrip- tions, I had imagined beforehand something very near the reality, except that the width was greater and the height less than I had expected. I have now seen the famous Niagara, NIAGARA, LACHINE, (IIAV. I. and honestly confess it would yive mo little concern never to see it again. It is too huge, and the disgustingly obtrusive civilisation that crawls over its sides turns my very heart sick. A small name on a map is more easily found than one in letters of excessive size, and so a narrower, higher cataract would strike more sharply on the mental vision, than low-statured, wide-spreading Niagara. Seneca Lake is more lovely and lovable than an endless stretch of becalmed ocean, lie it not supposed that I felt no delight in the beauty and grandeur of the noble cataract. No one could fail to be impressed in beholding an oly'ect so sublime, but the impression rests rather on the mind than in the heart. ' Besides the other drawback.', the rock formation at and near the Fall is poor both in colota and outline : but it is the all-pervading vulgarism which eurrounds it that makes the whole scene distasteful to me — so far as such is the case. The Canadian side is not strikingly offensive, but the Ameri- can side teems with glaring wooden structures hanging over the very precipice, down which, moreover, a staircase enclosed in a hideous wooden oox conducts the public to the ferry-boat, or to a small steamer which fizzes about as close to the cata- ract as it dares to go. Some wretched person has built a mock ruin on a little island that actually overhangs the Fall.' 3fai/ 4:th. — I took leave of my companion, and going on alone by rail to Kingston, on Lake Ontario, and thence by steamer down the St. Lawrence, I arrived at Lachine in good tmie on the evening of the following day. Sir George Simpson welcomed me very cordially to Hudson's Bay House, where a room was put at my disposal ; and in thii large, plain, comfortable dwelling, I passed the next three days, which were made most agreeable to me by the hosjiitable attentions of Mr. and Mrs. Mackenzie, then ClIAl'. I. ST. PAUL, CROW y¥'INO. permanently resident at that Post. I also receivei rniicli kindness, in various ways, from niatiy different (luartr s. Mondai/, May 9th. — We fairly set out on our juurnt^y towards the distant regions of the west, making our departure from Lachino about 6 A.M., by the early morning train. The party consisted of Sir George Simpson ; Mr. Hopkins, his secretary ; and Mr. Cameron, an officer in the Company's service, — who was only going with us to St. Paul. Our attendants were four in number — James Murray, Sir George's servant, a Shetlander ; my own man, Duncan Robertson, a Perthshire highl.ander, who acted as one of my gamekeepers when at home in Scotland ; lastly. Baptist and Toma, two Iroquois voyageur.s, who had been constantly employed as Sir George's canoe-men on his previous expeditions to Red River by the usual Canadian route. That night we slept at Toronto, where, at the Rossin Hotel, we were met by Mr. Kane, author of The Wander- ings of an Artist in North America, also by Dr. Rae, the well known Arctic explorer.* The latter was to travel with * I (liinuot resist the temptation to quote the following most appropriately worded passages from a very interesting and graphic volume published in 1848. — " The stranger introduced himself as Dr. llae. He was on his way to York Factory for the purpose of fitting out at that port an expedition for the survey of the small part of the North American coast left unexplored by Messrs. Dease and Simpson, which will then prove beyond a doubt whether or not there is a communication by water between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans round the north of America. Dr. Rae appeared to be just tlie man for such an expedition. He was very muscular and active, full of animal spirits, and had a fine intellectuul countenunce. He was considered, by those who knew him well, to be one of the best snow-shoe walkers in the [H. B. Co.'s] Service, was .also an excellent rifle shot, and could stand an immense amount of latigue . . . There is every reason to believe that this expedi- tion will be successful." In a footnote, the writer adds — "Since this sheet was prepared for press, I have heard of the return of Dr. Kae from his suc- cessful discoveries." — Ballantvne, Hudson's Bay, p. '2'25. ■J 41 4' I 6 niacama/i-aciiink, III \y. I. IIS on tlio t'ollowin^r duy, lint only ns lui' as lliiniilton ; Iio ]in])P(l, however, to join ns al'terwiinla at St. Paul, and tlieneo accompany onv party to JIe»l Itiver. llaviii"^ jtas.sed Tuesday ni;,dit at J)eti'oit, we set oil' lor Cliica<,'o liy niorninj,' train on tlui Utii. — 'A very tine hot day. The trees, which in the eastiM'ly Canadian ilistricts wiu'O leaf- less, are here half covered with lbliaj;e. The farther west we j?o, the finer seems the land and the more llonrishiny; the towns. A few western-looking men got into the; train, — tall, ))owerful, active, of the lymphatic-sangnine type. Each carried a long ritlo, and wore a Avallet on his back. Fine cattle (like Herefords) to be seen after crossing into the States. . . . ' Chicago is a finely built town of 120,000 iidiabitants. It is situated on Lake Michigan — a true inland sea. To-day the water was smooth as a mirror, and of a beautiful colour between blue, green, and grey. While taking a sherry- cobbler at the bar of the Iiiehmond Hotel, I talked to the Herman who keejts the cigar store there. He tells me there are from ."$0,000 to 40,000 (Jermans in this town ; but, lor his part, he says, he wishes he were back in Hanover.' May Vltli. — Leaving Chicago in the morning, W(! travelled by way of Madison and Trairie du Chien, and embarking in the Milwaukio steamer, pursued our journey up the stream of the Mississijipi Kiver. — ' The country after leaving the Chi- cago jmiirie is undulating: of limestone formation, producing stunted oak instead of the [)ine and soft deciduous wood of Canada. The snake-fence is less common here, and owing to its absence, and the use of jdain post and rail instead, also to the prevalence of oak copses, the landscape looks far more English. The whole country is now much ilooded, the water being higher than has been known since (I think) LS2G. Sir ( IIAI'. ST. I'AUL, cijow Wiser ({♦'oi'fjn (loulita if wc; sliiiU ]h>, aide to <^ct on lioyidid St. Paul, — it will 1)0 II wot rido at all evc'iit«. Tho MiHsi.s.sippi was in hij,'li flood, aubiiKir^Mii^ most of tlici willows that ^tow on its l)iiidvs, which tlu^instdves aro a soriiis of ])ictin(!S(Hi('ly wooihul hills, with horizontal strata of limcstono rock crojipin*^ out here and thcn^.' W(! arrived at St. Paul, the chirf town of ^finnosota, at 11 r.M. on Friday the KUh, and ])ut iij) at tho KuUor House, iin iiunicnsu but not un(U)nd'ortablu hotel of the regular American ty))e. Ma// l4oth of them were Vermont bred, and hav'ngbeen regularly driven togeth(>r by their former owner during long excursions in the forests, they had become great friends, and were never happy when parted from each other's society. The slighter one, a rpiiet, thoroughbred-looking bright bay, with veiy small and peculiar ears, I called Vermont, from the place of his nativity ; tin; other, a dark-brown, with black points and a white blaze on his front face, — a noble little horse with nu:>st splendid action, as gentle as a landi, Ijut full of fire and spirit, — I nami'd Morgan, after the celebrated breed from which he came. The brown waggon-horses, it was settled, were to be thencefortli known as Paul and Anthony, the young bay horse as Don. Maj/ 17th. — Sir George, Hopkins, and I, made an expe- dition to see the Minnehaha Falls, which had become so celebrated through Longfellow's beautiful poem. Our drive was pleasant in itself, but disa]ipointing as regarded its main object, for the river — which bounds in one clear shoot over a liuiestone rock son»e 50 feet in height — is a very insigni- ii! CIIAl'. t, ST. PAUL, CUOW-WINO. 11 licant stvoani, altlimioli at its fullost at the tinio wo saw it. The scene is pretty, l)ut no more ; it wonkl have little interest were it not associated with Hiawatha's story. MINNKHAIIA lAI.I.S. Mitji IStJi. — Oft' at last. We travelled in the same hired char-a-banc with canvas tilt, the "stage" in which we made our former fruitless journey to St. Anthony. Our road led u]) the courseof the Mississippi, through llatuuinteresting prairies, over whicli we jolted for many a weary hour till we reached Saux IJapids, where we took up our night's abode at the Hyperborean Hotel. The landlord, a Canadian with u Scot- tisli wife, was a very good-humoured obliging host ; he and his exerted themselves for our comfort with much ^^al and energy. After dinner I tried a well-bred, handsome horse, highly 12 NIAGARA, LACHINE, ST. PAUL, CROW- WING. chap. i. praised by his owner, and spoken of as likely to answer well for buffalo-running. He was fast enough, certainly, but both awkward and restive, so I did not buy him, though rather advised to do so, rightly supposing thnt a half-broke animal would add too much to the difficulties of an unfamiliar sport. May IWi. — The next day's travelling, still over level plains only partially settled, brought vis to Crow-wing, a village of no great size, where we took our final leave of the stage- waggon, as we descended from it at the door of Morri- son's Inn. Awaiting us there we found James AI'Kay, with everything arranged and ready for a start next morning at tlie earliest signs of dawn. ii I CHAPTER II. CEOW-WING TO FORT GARRY. May 20th. — Our night was one of restlessness and broken slumbers, through the inroad of every hateful tormentor. Little mattered such annoyances ! At daybreak we left all troubles behind us, mounted our good steeds, and made a fair, auspicious start for the wilderness, the forest, and the plains. What gladness swelled within my heart — oh ! never shall I forget it — as I felt the gallant little Morgan bounding and dancing beneath me, scarce able to control himself for joy, while we passed through the pleasant woods on that lovely summer morning, when all nature seemed so fresh and beauti- ful and sweet. At last, thought I, at last, the prisoner of civilisation is free ! Dr. Kae rode at my side on well-bred handsome Vermont. Sir George, who was in but indifferent health, travelled by liimself in a light Canadian cart, which was furnished with curtains and a canopy on poles. The Iroquois Toma drove Paul and Anthony in my waggon ; Short, a Scotch half- breed, conducted the lied River cart, a stout two-wheeled vehicle of the toughest quality though entirely ma " ' of wood, wheels, body, shafts, and all, being fitted together with- out a single particle of iron. The other men rode ; and the spare horses, of which M'Kay had brought a considerable number, ran freely alongside and never attempted to stray from their companions. . I . 14 CROW -WING TO FORT GARRV, I'llAi', II. I Oil loavinj^f Crow-wing wo crossed tlio ]\Iississi))pi in ii large flat b.ii'ge, of the sort known us u " scow," which took over the horses and vehicles as well as ourselves and our haggage. After this the road l)ecanie a mere rough track. For some time, however, it ran through a pine forest, in many parts of noticeable gi'owth, and was tolerably sound and hard, though intersected by a few tritiing swamps. About 12 o'clock we halted for breakfast — not a moment too soon in any one's oi)inion, for we had been about seven hours on horseback, — and did great justice to eggs and bacon, biscuits and butter, accoTni)anied with the universal dri'ik of tlie Company's service — remarkably excellent tea. This mid- day halt is but seldom a long one ; we were soon again on the road. The swampy places gvcw more freipient and trouble- some, till at length, at " jSIiry Creek," Ave were obliged to stop and make a portage, — that is to say, to transfer all the I'aggage from the carts to the shoulders of the men, who carried it across the swamp, while the lightened vehicles were dragged through as could be.st be managed. I witnessed this operation for the first time, and was astonished at the strength and liardinessof our practised voyageurs, M'Kay in particular showed the most wond(nful enei'gy. Up to his waist or chest in the clinging mud or the .sluggish black water of the creek, now passing heavy ]»ackages across, now dragging reluctant animals through the mire, all came alike to him, and his cheerfulness never flagged. This portage delayed us more than an hour. Soon after- wards we had to make another over Swan Creek, a swollen brook, but as there was no mire we managed this easily by means of an india-rubl)er canoe. I'v that time it was nearlv !^ o'clock, so M'Kay decided to halt, and at once led us to an excellent cum|ting i>lac(', when; a grove of line Scots firs ( IIAI'. II. CllOW-WJNG TO FORT OAURY. 16 stood ill scattered groups upon an (ilcvatod sandy flat, near whicli flowed with calm Imt powerful sweep the broad and swollen stream of the Crow-wing IJiver * The weary horses were set free, tents pitched, wood cut, tires lighted. Our simple supper was soon prepared and soon discussed, then came a ic .v minutes devoted to conversation aud the pipe or cigar, and then to bed. Our teiits were of the sort generally known as " boat-tents," about six feet scpuire inside, and six feet high to the ridge. Two ni^right poles supported another, loug.tudinally set, over which the canvas passed, so that the whole looked like a small straight- sided cottage, with the entry at one end. Abont two feet I'rom the ground the slope of the roof ceased, and canvas flaps went straight downwards till they reached the earth, when thair ends were turned in and placed under an oil-cloth flooring which kept all compact and dry. Sir George and Hopkins occupied one of the tents. Dr. Uae and I shared the other. We wrapped ourselves in our lilankets, and my companion was soon asleep. For my own [»art, this first night under canvas was far from agreeable to one so lately somewhat of an invalid. A keen frost struck upwards and downwards through the blankets, making sleep difhcult, and troops of Whip-poor-wills and other nightbirds sinieked with a maddening persistency that made it nearly impossible. After many hours some broken slumber came at last, and, thanks to the pureness of the air, I rose up toler- ably fresh and ready for action when the sunmions aAvakened our silent camp at daybreak. May 1\d. — Though sunny all the day it was exceedingly cold, an icy north wind encountering us as we went, and * " 'I'lif Ojihwii iiiiiiu' for tliis .•stiiMiu is Kiiij-((iii/-i-iix-fiii:oii, iiK'uuiiif^ Civir's h'liilltrr.''- S(ii(M)|,t'l!AH"r, Intl. Trilns n/ Cn, ,SV«/».s', \ ul. ii. 157. 1 l^^l h ' IH k IH ■ ' rUf,: H ENi>! ' fl'l If I V'§> 16 CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. ClfAl'. II. cliilling us to the very bone. In distnnce our nmrcli was much tlie same as tliat of the previous day — about five-and- tliirty miles, but it was far less interesting, being almost entirely over an imtimberod plain of poor quality, covered in many parts with an extensive growth of brushwood. I tried Don for the morning marcli, but lie was so rough in his paces, that my right knee (tender since a balloon accid(uit in 1848) began to be painful, and I resolved never to ride that horse again. After tliis he took his turn at the cart ; he proved too young and unseasoned, however, for nmch hard work, so I finally disposed of him at Fort Garry. Dr. Rao and M'Kay walked forward with their guns before the whole party started, and, keeping well in front, they picked up some prairie fowls,* ducks, and plovers, wliich *• Conimon and widely ditl'iLsed a.s the Prairie-lleii seeiiLS to hv, .some con- fusion apparently exi.st.s among naturali.sts in regard to it. Of all the Tetra- onidre, as described by Dr. Kiehurdson and Mr. Swainson in the Fauna, Borcali'Americanii, there is only one species (besides tin; Ruffed Grouse — Tctrao vinhcllns) in the least answering to the Prairie-fowl, viz, 2'etmo (e.entrocercus) phasianellua — The Sha)'2>-tailcd Grouse (length of male 20 inches), which I rather believe to be the bird in question. In the Zoological Appendix to Sir John Franklin's Narrative, ann. 1823 (p. C80), by Mr. Sabine, there is also no detailed description of eny other nearly corresponding species ; but under the heading Tctrao umbcUus — JhtffrtI Grouse, the author writes : — " This species is an iidiabitant of wooded countries onlj-, in which it dillers from the Pinnated Grouse of America, Tctrao cupido, better known under the appella- tion of the Prairie Hen or Heath Hen." Under the heading 7'clrao jdiasia- nellius — Sharp-tailed Grouse, tin; same author states, that lanna-us at first called that bird T. jthasianeUus, but afterwards made it a variety of T. uronallus ; "and that subsequent experience has proved that the Hrst oinnion was correct." In the Naturalist's Libranj, edited by Sir William .lardine (vol. iv. p. 130), two closely allied species arc described besides the IJuHed Grouse, viz. — 2'he Pinnated Grouse — 'T'trao euju'do (which is quoted as Linna'us's desig- nation of it), and the SUarp-tailcd Grouse— Tctrao pli((si((ncllus, the adult mab; of which is described as being "as large as" the JUiH'eil Grouse, viz. about ! i CHAP. ir. CROW-WINQ TO FORT GARRY. 17 we boiled with rice at supper, to the great improvement of our former fare. We camped near Leaf Lake, whose shores were the site of a " <" y ' which consisted of two wooden Imts. The Collowing day {Sunday, May 22il) was very warm and fine, and travelling became altogether more agreeable, for the road now took us through a pretty and varied country abounding in woods and lakes. In the morning we came across two or three Ojibways, the first of whom was no favourable specimen, — a miserable object, half naked and quite drunk, a bloated, disgusting savage. These Indians seemed peaceable and harmless eighteen inches. Major Ross King, however ( The Sportsman and Naturalvt in Canada, ann. 1866 — p. 143), only seems to recognise one bird of the kind in addition to the Iluired Grouse, viz. Tlic Piairie Hen — Cupidonia cupido, and he describes the male as " averaging nearly three pounds avoirdupois in weight, not far from that of an ordinary Cock Pheasant " (about double the weight of nn average Scottish Grouse), and as " measuring about nineteen inches in length," which approaches the length assigned by Dr. Richardson to the Teirao phasianellm — viz. twenty inches. Mr. Hind, referring to the Prairie- fowl in the Roseau .. district, not very far from Red River, designates them Tetrao cupido {Canadian Red Iliver Exploring ExpcdUion,\o\, i. p. 160). Amidst this conflict of authorities it is hard to decide, and I can form no opinion as to whether or not the Sharp-tailed Grouse and the Pinnated Grouse are distinct. If, though distinct, they are closely-allied varieties, it is possible 1 may have shot specimens of both without observing the difference. I am disposed, however, to think that the birds we so constantly met with moi? resembled in size the former than the latter. My men used to speak of them as " Pheasants ; " and, all things considered, I incline tr identify them with Dr. Richardson's " Tetrao j)hasiancllus ;" — " Awkiscow—Qxea Indians ; Phea- sant — Hudson's Day residents." — (Faun. Bor. Am. vol. ii. p. 361). Otherwise, one is forced to the strange conclusion that one of the commonest birds in the Hudson's Bay Territories has been omitted from a book expressly relating to the zoology of that country, — a work prepared by several distinguished natundists, among whom Dr. Richardson, at any rate, was intimately acquainted with those northern parts of America, having been engaged in both of Sir John Franklin's overland expeditions. m n{ I'ln . i\ 18 CROW-WING TO FOKT OAIJIIY. c'liAr. ti. enough, but we presently tell in with a very dangerous party of the sni;;o tribe. y>lv. were just entering a fine level prairie, which stretched a good twelve miles to the front, when we noticed a band of armed Indians posted on a mound that commanded the road. 1'hey evidently exiiected us, for one of them instantly ran to intercei)t llt)pkins and M'Kay, who were riding foremost, threw himself in their way, and tried hard to stop them, loudly clamouring for presents. Sir George called to us to go on. We pressed forward. At that moment the Indian made a spring, and clutched at M'Kay's rein ; but the latter very (juickly got rid of him, seizing the fellow's hand in such a gripe that he danced with pain and astonishment, and went staggering to the other side of the track. Another Indian snatched at the wheel of Sir George's cart, but failed to keep his hold ; and as we went steadily onwards, the villains thought better of it, and let us pursue our course, but before we had gone fifty yards they had the insolence to fire a bullet over our heads ; then the whole band began to shout and make grossly insulting gestures. Such impertinence was hard to bear, and some of us felt inclined to turn back and try conclusions with them ; Sir George, however, begged us not to notice their insults, point- ing out that any injury received at our hands would only be revenged upon future travellers. lie might have added that we should certainly have got the worst of it, the enemy being more numerous and twice as well armed. It was forturate that we were a rather strong-looking l)arty, for these Indians were of an Ojibway band called " Les lUllageurs," * notorious for their daring rascality. As * " Tlio naiue of The rilliigeis, or Muk-iui-JHu-win-in-c-mig, pillnge-nu'ii, ciiAr. II. CROW-WING TO FORT (iARRV 10 roccntly as the foregoing year they hud wantonly shot two horses behmging to some Iletl lUver hulf-bret;tls who happened to bo passing ah)ng tliat already niuch-fre(|uentod track. Later in the day wo crossed Little lied lUver, and in course of the afternoon traversed another considerable prairie, covered all over with the long, withered herbage of the bye- gone season. Taking no heed of this store of inflammable stuff, I carelessly threw away a match with which 1 had been lighting my meerschaum ; in an instant the prairie was in a blaze. The wind speedily bore the flames away from us, and ere long the conflagration raged far and wide. I never heard to what extent it spread, but for hours afterwards we could see its lurid glow illuminating the darkness of the distant horizon. Morgan carried me beautifully the whole forty miles of the march, and came in as fresh as when he started. He was quiet and gentle, spirited and handsome, perfect in all his paces ; a more charming ])ony it would be impossible to imagine. A few early mosquitoes showed themselves, the pioneers of the coming legions — ill-omened sight ! May 2od. — We started at 4 a.m., and rode till 9, passing waa given to them by their fellow Ojibwas ami whites, on account of their having taken away the goods of a trader about eighty years ago [about 1770], at the mouth of a creek still known as rillagc Creek, emptying into the Crow-Wing river. The band is also noted for their wildness, and as lu'ving on several later occasions acted to the letter of their name in their dealings with traders and missionaries Of the Pillagers, when you ask them who were their most noted warriors and men, the answer is — ' They all fought alike ; not one of our fathers passed through life without seeing the shedding of blood.' " — Schoolciiafj', Hcport vn the Indian 2'rilics of Ike United iitulen, vol. ii., 153, 165. :,h I i) 1' f I so CUOW-WING TO FORT (iAIlUV. ('IIAI'. II. 1 ■.i:'-li. , for three liour? tliroii<^h a wood of fine iiiiiplos, iroiiwood, and brush, not unlike an English forest in u[i[»earance. AVhilo traversinj,' its bounds the Ivcd Jiiver cart ui)sot, but it was raised aj^iiin, without inj'ury either to that stout vehicle, or to Don, who was in the shafts at the time. After this we enierj,a'd on the banks of Lake Forty-four (so called from the date of the discovery of this route), a fine sheet of tlu! clearest water, enlivened by the whit(!n(!ss of a tlock of swinnning and wading pelicans. We had meant to halt for breakfast near the lake, but were completely put to rout by clouds of minute Hies, actually den.so enough to choke up the horses' nostrils, so wo rode on ior sonio miles farther, to the next convenient halting-place. Here mischance continued to follow us ; for our break- fast fire, being carelessly lighted, began to spread along the grass, and in a few minutes the wind, taking a sudden tur!i, blew all the smoke and sparks into our faces, obliging us to make a rapid retreat into the part already consumed. The grass being short and crisj) on the barren eminence where we had posted ourselves, the line of flame never rose much above a foot from the ground, yet we had hard work to beat it out, and could scarcely force or persuade the horses to cross that really insigniticant obstacle. We now began to ascend to a higher level, and coming at length to the top of an ascent, a most glorious landscape opened full ui)on our view. Yav as the eye could reach swept one enormous plain, its vast extent diversified by the winding courses of the lied liiver and the Shayenne, and of many a smaller stream, whose meanderings could be traced by the trees that clung along thtnr sides in a distinct though narrow bordcir. The day had bcjcome intensely hot, it was dillicult to (JIIAI*. II. CUOW-WINQ TO FORT OARRY. 21 d M Kiyi iPK^ r1 ^^. % :teJ WATRRSrOUT. lircatlio, o\w felt almost roady to faiut. Tlumdcrwaa pcaliiiji; ami lightriiM},' llasliiiig in (liU'creiit parts of tluj sky, but far distant from us. Suddenly a phonomonou displayed itself on tlio south-west lioiizon — a waterspout (jf gi<,'antic si/e and singular a])pearanco. Its thin and lofty stem was surmount(>d by a far-spreading cloud of inky blackness ; at the base of the column torrents dashed upon the earth, rebounding in fountain-like masses of silvery spray. This grand and uncommon spectacle continued for a quarter of an hour, then it began to dissolve awoy, and slowly faded into nothingness. 3fai/ 2Uh. — An amusing though unpleasant incident happened in the night. Duncan, who was but a novice in the art of encamping, had thoughtlessly set the Haps of my tent over the oil-cloth floor instead of imder it, as ho should have done, — a mistake which unluckily passed unobserved, f(jr it was hardly perceptible when the blankets were laid down. Towards midnight I suddenly awoke, and found myself in a pool of water. A violent thunderstorm was raging, rain beating furiously on the canvas, and entering beneath the unfastened flajis ; whole floods streaming in and flowing round my back and shoulders. The darkness was intense. I managed to light a candle, and gazing on the cheerless scene discovered that my own side of the tent was completely imnidated ; it lay low, and the oil-cloth, instead of running the water off, had made itself into a reservoir for my benefit. The other side was better situated, being on higher ground, and there I beheld my companion. Dr. llac, sound asleep, as yet undisturbed by the tide, "vvhich only encroached upon his i»*i I 'I -^^ 22 CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY. CHAT. II. iM feet and ankles. He slept quietly on, till in an hour or two the gradually rising water awoke him. Little could be done until daylight, but I improved matters by turning my india-rubber bath bottom upwards, with a pillow on the top of it, so as to form an island ; on which I seated myself, after drawing a waterproof over my soaking shirt, and passed away the time in writing up my journal. By (] o'clock the rain had ceased. I escaped from the chilly tent, and, much to my satisfaction, found M'Kay in the act of kindling a fire, on a dry open piece of ground a few yards distant. Having extemporised a hut of branches covered with an oil-skin, he had passed a tolerable night ; the men, too, had been pretty well sheltered beneath the carts and w\aggon, and Sir George and Hopkins had slept very comfortably in their well-pitched tent. 3fai/ 25th. — Owing to rain and mist we had marched but five miles on the previous day, M'Kay disliking to travel in wet weather, on account of the injury that damp occasions to soft leather harness. To make up, we rode twenty miles, without a halt, that bitterly cold, raw, east-windy morning, only stopping wiien we readied tlie flooded stream of the Eice Piiver. After breakfast we drove the horses across, while M'Kay built an ingenious scow by stretching our largest oil-skin over the wlieels of the cart. These ironless wheels have a great outward set, so that when taken off and laid on their naves tlie level of the tires rests a foot or more above that of the ground. Two of them being placed side by side on the oil- cloth, were firmly tied together ; four poles were then lashed to each other so as to form an oblong, and this being fastened upon the wheels, and the oil-skin beneath (a a a) drawn up and attached to it, a strong and buoyant scow was the result, CHAP. ir. CROW-WING TO FORT GARUY. 23 CAKT-WHEEI. SCOW. the wheels being at once framework and platform, while the poles made a steady gun- wale for the paddles to work on. — 'The luggage -s and the vehicles were safely and speedily ferried over, M'Kay, as usual, wading about waist-deep, active and ready beyond imagina- tion After this we had a most weary ride over a long plain, recently burned and quite black, and so soft from the heavy rains that the horses went fetlock-deep at every step, sometimes sinking to the very hocks. Every brook was a river, every swamp a lake, the road a swamp. A cold steam rose from the soaked earth, our spirits were damped, the jaded horses plodded heavily on The journey seemed endless, for we could not find a good camping-place, but at length we settled down near a stream between Eice and Sand-hill Rivers.' Having borrowed a gun, I went forward while a portage was making over a small but deep little river, and shot a few ducks, as well as a prairie-fowl. I felt somewhat pleased in also shooting two bitterns, but my friends objected to them for supper, on account of their frog-devouring propensities. Remembering a highly-approved disli in tlie refreshment-room at Toronto, it struck me that if we ate frogs ourselves we need not object to birds that did no worse. The bitterns, however, were vetoed on this occasion. I often ate them afterwards, and agree with our forefatliers in thinking them excellent food. May 2(jth. — After breakfasting on the pretty banks of the Sand-hill River, at a place where sandy elevations were i W If 24 CROW- WING TO FORT GARRY. cuAr. II. covered with scattered trees, we forded its shallow stream and passed the baggage across in M'Kay's oil-skin scow. From this point the track improved, for it quitted the low moist plains, and ran along at a higher level on a dry and wholesome prairie. In the afternoon we observed a small black bear quest- ing about in the distance, wliereupon M'Kay, with his won- derful art of making all horses go, immediately coaxed a gallop out of the wretched lame pony he was riding, and " ran " the bear, as the phrase is. A black pointer, named Blucher, joined zealously in tlie chase, turning the beast several times and worrying at his hind legs ; the coward, however, showed no signs of fight, though twice as big as his enemy, and M'Kay presently came up and shot him through the heart. This two-year-old bear was miserably thin and ragg"''. He seemed to have been in straits for food, for there vr nothing in his stomach more nourishing than ants, many -A them alive and active ; he had positively swallowed the whole nest — moss, earth, insects, and all. We varied our supper witli bear-steaks that night. I thought them particularly nasty, — lean, coarse, and rank-smelling ; perhaps, however, tliis was attributable to the animal's want of condition, for fat bear is spoken of as one of the best of tilings. All night long the wolves made doleful music in the wood on the other side of Eed Lake liiver. This deep wide stream rolled on in heavy flood a few yards below the willows that sheltered our tents, and as I watched its swift and turbid current, I could not but wish that everything were safe across. May 21th, — The crossing of the Red Lake River occupied us tiU 12 o'clock. M'Kay and Toma began by launching the india-rubber canoe and leading one of the horses over ; 1 '1 \ . \ ■ 1 CHAP, II. CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY. 26 pi' r the rest took the water after a little pushing and driving, and all got safely to the other side. The baggage was then fer- ried across in an oil-skin scow, which we towed backwards and forwards by moans of two ropes. Then came a hard march of twenty-six mUes without a halt, mostly along a high gravelly bank of singular character, with swamps on either hand. Here, to our surprise, we beheld a tradesmanlike man walking towards us all alone. He proved to be an American pedlar, who, with true Yankee independ- ence, was returning companionless on foot after the disposal of all his cargo at Fort Garry. Excepting the knife in his pocket he was without a weapon, and there was but little in the small provision-bag he carried on his back. We won- dered how he would contrive to pass the Eed Lake Eiver, which is the worst difficulty in the whole 428 miles of the journey to Crow- wing. I believe that he waited till another party came up, and crossed with their assistance. For the first time the mosquitoes appeared in force. Not expecting them, I had no gloves with me, and, in spite of constant watchfulness^ my hands were excessively bitten, and so empoisoned that they swelled up and grew very pain- ful, such feverishness succeeding as to prevent me from sleeping for the whole of the following night. I never again suffered so much in this way, for the blood gets by degrees accustomed to the venom of the bites, — there is less inflam- mation afterwards, though quite as much annoyance at the moment. May 28^/i. — We breakfasted early this morning, after scowing across Snake-hill River, so I borrowed a gun and went forward in hopes of picking up some game. In this I was disappointed, and had more than enough of deep wading through flooded creeks ; but the beauty and freshness of the III 26 CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. CHAP. II. morning, and the exquisite singing of thousands of little birds in the bushes and poplar groves, amply made up to me for all. My bag, however, was not quite an empty one, for while waiting at Pine Eiver for the arrival of the carts, I stalked and shot some pigeons that had settled among the higher trees up and down the course of the stream. They were exceedingly pretty birds, rather larger than turtle-doves, bluish in colour, and chiefly differing from the common pigeon in the pheasant-like length of their pointed tails. We often heard their peevish scream, but, from their wildness, could not succeed in getting many of them.* Towards afternoon we came to a miserable country, swamp following swamp, and at length we got entangled in one of such depth, that poor Don, who was dragging the cart through it, fairly sat down on his haunches, and I thought we should never be able to move him. ' The frogs, as usual, never ceased their chirping and croaking uproar ; cranes were very numerous, uttering con- tinually their doleful, throat-gargling cry, a sound only surpassed in wretchedness by the shrieks of the ungreased cart-wheels, which moaned and screamed like a discontented panther.' Sunday, May 2Wi. — The horses strayed, and delayed us more than half- an-hour, but we made our start at 5 a.m., and were as far as the first of the Deux Kivieres by our usual dinner-time. Previously to this we had been traversing a rich but bare and level prairie of many miles' extent. — ' It is strange to find oneself on an apparently flat disc of grass, nothing but grass meeting the plain horizon-line all around. One feels as if crawling about in view of high Heaven on a * Columba (Ectopistos) Migratoria, T'lissengpr Piijeon. Mimcumck—Cree Indians. — Richard.son, Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. ii, p. 363. CHAP. II. CROW -WING TO FORT GARRY. 27 circular table punched out from the world and stuck on a spike. ' A lovely sunny day, and not too hot. . . . We crossed the river without accident, thanks to M'Kay's skill and activity, and camped on the banks of the second of the Deux Eivieres.' May ^Qth. — There was a break in our journey through the wilderness when early that afternoon we arrived at Pembina, near the boundary of the British territories, *a small and straggling place, not worthy to be called a village,' and established ourselves at the Company's fort, then under charge of Mr. M'Intosh. By Sir George's directions all sorts of good things were specially provided for our dinner. A calf was killed for the occasion, Gold-Eye fish were procured, — in short, we were treated to a most excellent meal, doubly welcome to us after the rough fare of the preceding week ; which had been little but salt pork, with the addition of such pigeons, curlews, ducks, and plovers, as we had managed to pick up by the way. Our quiet was too soon interrupted by the uproar of a large band of Saulteaux,* who came and fired salutes close by in honour of the Governor's arrival. This meant the usual thing — presents ; but Sir George gave them little encourage- ment, probably not choosing to countenance irregular demands from natives in trade relations with the Company, especially as he was travelling for the first time by this rather recently developed Minnesota route. H.1 3 * Or Salteurs, or Sotoos, — one of the branches of the Ojibway tribe, so named from their residence liaving been near the Sault St. Marie. — V. Franklin, Journey to the. Polar Sea, in the Years 1819-22, p. 63. Mr. Kane thus writes on the subject: — " The Saulteaux are a band of the great Ojibbeway nation, both words signifying * the .Jumpers,' and I derive the name from their expertncss in leaping their canoes over the numerous rapids which occur in the rivers of their vicinitj'." — Wanderings of an Artist, p. 82. I,' U kK. 28 CROW-WING TO FORT GARRY. CHAP. II. ifi I was disappointed in these Indians. They too much re- sembled commonplace Europeans, southerners in aspect, northerners in the forms and materials of their clothing — ' by no means fine-looking men, but picturesque with their green or scarlet blankets, and their long, streaming, coal-black hair.' Mmj Zlst. — Our road was mostly over vast rich plains, and the only incident of the day was the passage of the Vieux Marais, a horribly swampy creek, which from its depth offered a serious obstacle, although only a few yards wide. It was necessary to take the trouble of unharnessing, and pushing or hauling the carts across, after a previous portage of the baggage. The men carried us all over. M'Kay took Sir George, but I was quite as well placed on Toma's powerful back, though even he had enough to do in wading this deep and treacherous morass. "We were furnished with a strange lot of horses to-day, which had been taken from the Company's Pembina establishment to relieve our own jaded animals. Hopkins rode a showy, skew-bald, Koman-nosed pony, a buflfalo- runner of some rejmte, but whose chief accomplishment seemed to consist in stumbling, which he climaxed by a sudden fall on his head. My steed was much more remarkable, being a true specimen of the " woolly " horse, his soft dun hair covering him in close curls like the fleece of a Leicester sheep. He had been brought from the Columbia Eiver country, where a breed of that kind is said to exist. June 1st. — We had heavy rain and thunder at night, but kept all dry in our tents, with one triHing exception. It cleared up for a few minutes between 4 and 5 A.M., so we set out on our march ; rain, however, came on again, and lasted nearly four hours. CHAP. II. CROW- WING TO FORT GARRY. 29 We breakfasted at the house of a settler named D- who lived with his family in great apparent comfort in that small log cottage, and farmed on a moderate scale, owning sixty head of cattle, and cultivating a few acres of land. After taking leave of Mr. D we crossed the Eed Kiver in a ferry-boat, and riding forward at a good pace, in two hours or so we found ourselves opposite Fort Garry. Placing ourselves in the ferry-boat for the second time that day, we speedily arrived at the other side ; then, vaving remounted o'l^ steeds — mine was Morgan once more -we dashed at full t, .nop up to the Fort, amidst the firing of cannon and the cheers of a welcoming crowd. I Si; 111 If m* CHAPTER III. FORT GARRY. Fort GAERY, as we approached it, seemed to nie a very considerable place. It was then, as I believe it is now, a great parallelogram of lofty stone walls with circular bastion towers, within which compass stood rows of storehouses in line with the sides, while, rectangularly to these, ranges of more important buildings occupied the central space, facing this way and that towards the opposite ends of the oblong. On entering the enclosure we rode up to the principal house, where we were received by Dr. Bunn, the medical resident at the Fort ; we had been previously met near the ferry by ]Mr. Fortescue, the second in charge, as representa- tive of his chief, Mr. Mactavish, who was then temporarily absent ; and very comfortable rooms were prepared for us in the large and spacious mansion wl. V,h for a while was to form our home. As two o'clock struck we sat down to an excellent dinner, at which, besides the gentlemen already mentioned, our party comprised three of the Company's clerks — Mr. Bridgeman, Mr. Watson, and Mr. Kennedy ; also anotlier traveller from the old country, Mr. Boyd, an English gentleman, who was rest- ing here for a few days on his return journey, after a length- ened visit to the great camp of the half-breeds during the continuance of their winter buffalo-hunt. m CHAP. III. FORT GARRY. 31 It was a large party, — a pleasant one I am sure wo all found it, and wished for no change in its number ; unfor- tunately, however, it soon had to suffer a serious diminu- tion, for, a few days after our anival. Sir George's official duties called him away to Norway House, at the northern extremity of Lake Winnipeg, there to preside at the general meeting of the Company's chief officers,— an assemblage annu- ally held to arrange the business for each ensuing year. Before his departure he occupied much of his time in for- warding my intended expedition, heartily interesting himself in all its details, and giving me invaluable assistance and advice ; among other benefits, he was good enough to leave with me his own canoe-man, Toma, one of the trustiest and best of fellows. I felt melancholy when the hour of leave-taking arrived ; when farewells had to be exchanged with my much-valued friends Sir George and Mr. Hopkins. Our acquaintance had been but brief, as dates might limit it, but ami'ist such journeyings as we had shared in, a week does more for intimacy than months might do elsewhere. To me their companionship had been all that was kindly and agreeable, and mine, I trust, had to some extent been the same to them.* It took me a full fortnight to complete my preparations, notwithstanding the great help I received from Dr. Eae and Mr. Mactavish — I might indeed say, from every member of the Company's establishment, for all vied with one another in * Little did I think that I lookcjd on one of these friends for the last time, as we stood at the gate and cordially pressed hands together. But so it was to be. Not much more than a year had elapsed, when a very kind letter from Mr. Hopkins brought me the sorrowful news of Sir George Simpson's death. He died in September 1860, after an illness of but five days' duration. Thus was taken from us a true, warm-hearted friend, an able, energetic man ; thus was ended a most useful, active, and distinguished career. ■\ ■ I r: ■i " I \ ! I I I S V St 33 FORT GARRY. CHAP, III, kind otticeg. There were men to engage, horses aiul carts to buy, stores of every kind to lay in, — a thousand things, in short, to do, which waste time more tlian any one could fancy who has not gone through the same experience. I was impatient to sot off, for summer in this land is a very fleeting season ; hut, putting that aside, the days slipped pleasantly by. The Protestant Bishop of Kupert's Land (tlien Bishop Anderson), and Bishop Tache of the Eoman Catholic see of St. Boniface, were both good enough to call on me, and part of my time was passed in returning their visits and those of some of the other principal residents. The Eed liiver Settlement at Jiat time consisted of a series of small farms and holdings, more or less thickly placed along the two banks of the river from which it derives its name. At Fort Garry, where there were houses enough to form a sort of scattered town, the population was sharply divided by the river into_ two distinct sections, the Scotch and English settlers and their half-breeds occupying the western bank, while the French Canadians, whether pure or half-breed, occupied the right or eastern l)ank. On Monday the 6th, a very agreeable hour was passed by Dr. Eae and myself in visiting the Roman Catholic nunnery, following an introduction to the Lady Superior afforded us by Bishop Tache's kindness. It was chiefly an educational estab- lishment, managed by the nuns, who, I believe, were Sisters of Charity. They wore an extremely quaint and pretty dress. The close-fitting gown was of fawn-coloured cotton, with sleeves square and open at the wrist. Over the gown was a dark blue cotton petticoat, with small white spots, which, reaching only to within six inches from the grounil, sliowed a narrow strip of fawn colour beneath. A he..vy kerchief of black material covered the shoulders, and was crossed over CIIAI'. III. FORT QARllY. 88 tlio bosom ; n olack poko-honiiet, above n plain white ca]), completed the costume. A gilt crucifix hung from a girdle round the waist. Moccasins were worn instead of shoes, according to the universal custom of the country, to wliich oven the bishops conformed. These excellent nuns educated about forty children, mostly from among the French popula- tion. We had the pleasure of seeing a few of the pupils, whom Sister C veiy obligingly sent for, asking them to give us some specimens of their progress in music. Two nice-looking dark girls of fourteei\ first came in, and played several pieces on a piano-forte, — which, I confess, it surprised me to see in this remote and inaccessible land ; then two pretty little fuir-haired children took their place, and, like the others, played in a pleasing and very creditable manner. The institution was universally spoken of as most useful and popular, and as being in all respects remarkably well conducted. Fort Garry wab amply provided with churches, for besides the two greater edifices known as the cathedrals, there was a large place of worship for the Presbyterians, who formed a numerous and important body, I used in general to attend service at the Protestant Cathedral, where the Bishop himself officiated. Its interior was of extreme plainness ; but one thinks little of that where all is simple and without pretence. Though the Presbyterian psalms and hynms were not in us(% it was easy to see that the Scottish race prevailed in the con- gregation, — the tunes and the manner of singing so forcibly recalling the sober, deliberate fashion of my own country, that I could scarcely believe myself thousands of miles a^\■ay in the innermost heart of America. On the Assiniboine, a mile or two off, there is another Episcopidiau settlement, named St. James's. I walked there 1) ^ ]V l\ 'i sa@i i i 34 FOllT (lAUIlY. CIIAt'. III. one nfteniMoii with Dr. IJat^ and ciilUsd on tlio Kuv. Mr. Taylor, the incumbent, wlio showed \\s the church, — a pretty thougli Hiinph? buihlinjj, the interior onianuMitcd with texts and other designs, all i)ainted by himself, — then lios- pitably invited us to tea. In the parsonage drawing-room our attention was called to a picture of the (^ueen (a formerly well-known portrait from the lUmtmtrd London Nvwa), which had been framed and conspicuously hung on the wall. It appeared that Indians often came expressly to see it, having strong feelings of loyalty to the sovereign ; one old chief especially, a recent visitor there, had insisted on being allowed to kiss her Majesty's portrait in token of his loving homage. Thursday, the \Mh of June, was a notable day at Fort Gar'y. The first steamer that had yet navigated the Ited liiver made her appearance that morning, bringing two or three passengers from Minnesota. " Ans Northup" was the name of this small, shabby, stern-wheel boat, mean and insig- nificant in itself, but important as the harbinger of new developments of what Americans are pleased to call civilisa- tion. Crowds of Indians stood silently on the shore, watching the arrival of this strange portentous object. Little thought they how ominous a sight it was for them, fraught with pre- sages of ruin for all their wandering race ! I know not whether these natives were Crees or Ojibways. They were an ugly, hard-featured set. One woman only had some good looks, and these chiefiy consisted in the marvellous whiteness and regularity of her teeth. Like many of the others she carried a child on her back carefully wrapped up in the folds of her thick blanket, and looking warm and comfortable in its nest. A few Cree families had made their small encampment ^m < llAf, III. FOUT OAllUY. 30 on tho pniii in outsido, near tlio Fort ; they were dirty, gipsy- liko people, neither Imndsonio, interesting, nor picturesipio. I observed one of tho little hoys driving his lather's horses homo by shooting blunt arrows at them with all tin force of a by no means despicable bow. From his very childhood the Indian learns inhumanity to animals. By tho 14th all my preparations were complete. I was fortunate in securing tho services of a thoroughly competent guide — that is to say, head man — in John M'Kay, a younger brother of our energetic leader from Crow-wing. Under him were four men belonging to his own district — Morrison M'Beath and Donald Matheson, of unmixed Sutherlandshire descent ; George KliiiO * of the French-Canadian race ; and James Short, whom I have already spoken of — all of them picked men, perfectly up to their work, excellent fellows in every possible respect. Besides th s Eed lliver party, there was Duncan Robertson, who c. i.i*' with me from Scot- land ; also Sir George's can '-man, Thoma? /Vriwakenha, the Iroquois, commonly kuovn n Toma, whoso duties con- sisted in driving the waggon, cooking my meals, and, al. ng with Duncan, acting as my special attendant. Under charge of this efticient brigade there was gathered together a very considerable i. mount of property of every sort and kind — horses and vehicles, weapons, provisions, and stores : — three new two-wheel carts, and the four-wheel wag- gon already menti )ned, all filled to the brim with various sorts of baggage : my own canvas tent (the same one I had used before), a b,v .*' oell-tent for the men, oil- cloth squaies, blankets, clothes and other personal goods ; bales of tea and • The luinie is soiiiL'tinu's spelt Klyiie or Cliiic, the .si)elliiiy being varied even in tl'J f ouipuiiy's account books. In pronuuciiition the i is sounded as It, not ns c. I II' I ! h ■M ■! I'* IM 36 FORT GARRY. CHAP. III. ,■ t sugar, sacks of flour and rice ; biscuits, jam, and eggs, and dried tongues in plenty to keep us in food till we got fresh meat in the buffalo country ; many pounds of the Company's excellent flat " plug " tobacco for myself and my men ; an immense 90 lb. roll of the rather coarser twist, for the especial benefit of the Indians. Then we had a great quantity of goods of another descrip- tion, — such as a large copper box of rifle powder, kegs of com- mon powder, bullets, shot, and caps ; a variety of weapons ; axes, hammers, saws, a canteen, a portable table, and a camp- stool, cooking utensils, etc. ; in short, we were provided with more than every requisite for the plains, besides extra supplies to furnish the customary presents to any Indian parties we might chance to meet. There was one deficiency, according to some people's notions : I took no wine or spirits with me, nor allowed any to be taken, except a few bottles of rum. But little use was made even of this, and I afterwards left the greater part of it at Fort Carlton. What troubles and difficulties this saved me from I can only guess — from a great many, no doubt. We ought, however, to have had a small store of brandy for medicinal purposes. Indeed, I rather felt the want of stimu- lants when exhausted by hard work in the mountains. To draw the waggon there were four horses — my former purchases, Paul and Anthony, and two white horses of much the same size as these, the one called Lane and the other Wawb^, which, in Cree, means " white." For the carts there were seven smaller beasts, tlie biggest of them scarcely more than a pony. Their names were as follows : — Deserter, Nez-Blanc, Gris, Mouldy, Spot, Bleu, and Little Black — uninteresting animals all, tliat cost on an average about £13 apiece. As this list may indicate, the half-breeds generally name their y M I(< CHAP. III. FORT GARRY. 37 P- horses according to colour or marking or other peculiarity, but sometimes after a former owner {e.g. Lane) ; sometimes, also, though more rarely, after a circumstance or a place, or occa- sionally in an altogether unmeaning way. Then there were two buffalo-runners — a silver-tailed white pony, afterwards known as W^pooss (the Babbit), a name suggested by his remarkable countenance ; and " Great Black," a large, well-bred horse, — ^which, with the last-men- tioned, I bought from James M'Kay, — ^reputed the fastest runner in the settlement, but too unmanageable to be gene- rally useful. Last, but best, came my favourite riding-ponies, Morgan and his companion Vermont, My guns and saddle had not arrived at St. Paul before our departure from that place ; so, by Sir George's directions, John M'Kay and another man had waited there to receive them and immediately bring them on. The things soon came to hand, upon which ^M'Kay made rapid work, and reached Fort Garry just four days later than we did. It was with anxiety that I opened the gun-cases, but, excepting a few trifling rust spots, my precious weapons had taken no harm, after aU the risks of damage tliey had run since I parted from them at the New York Custom-House. As I afterwards discovered, half the number would have served my purpose, for, having little means to judge what was really needful, I had been erring far too zealously on what seemed the safer side. Of all the armament, I held in infinite preference a pair of two-grooved double-barrelled rifles, by Purdey. A better pair no maker could possibly turn out. They have been immensely used, and in pretty trying service sometimes, but to this day they remain as good as when I first handled them some eighteen or nineteen yea/s ago. They carry a \\ m !:i 38 FORT GARRY. CHAP. III. « i medium-sized, but very deadly, conical ball. My other rifle was one of large bore, by Dickson in Edinburgh ; a good one, I believe, but, on account of its weight, I hardly ever used it, not finding bullets of great size to be required. I had also a pair of excellent Purdey shot-guns, of No. 12 gauge, which, at close quarters, could throw round bullets most effectively. Besides these, I took a five-chambered revolving rifle, and a pistol of the same description, of the Colt manufacture. The latter I never used ; the former shot Avell, but I disliked it for reasons afterwards mentioned. These were the only breech-loaders I possessed, that sort of weapon being little employed for sporting purposes until a year or two afterwards. My men had various guns and rifles of their own ; none were worth much, except a highly-serviceable double-barrelled gun belonging to M'Kay, of the best poss^'ble pattern for general use in that country. It was as thick in the metal as a rifle, and carried a bullet accurately to more than a hundred yards, and as its bore was of the size (28) universal in the Company's trade, supplies of ball could be got anywhere and almost from any person. Small as these bullets are — for, being round, they had none of the expansion of a conical ball, especially a flanged one such as that shot by my rifles, which were really but little different in the gauge — they are large enough, if well directed, to kill any beast in America ; stores of them, moreover, can be carried in little bulk — an inestimable advantage for the ordinary hunter. This handy and neatly-finished gun, wliich was made in London at a trifling cost [£12 if I riglitl)' remember], could also throw shot with a power that I have never seen equalled. Good as my Purdey smooth-bores were, M'Kay iised to kill ducks at distances fairly beyond my range. During the marcli I generally carried a rifle resting on a CIIAP. Id. FORT GARRY. 39 rolled-up waterproof strapped to my saddle-bow, soon learning to poise it so that it almost steadied itself ; and M'Kay in- variably carried his gun, balancing it in a similar manner between his own body and the high front-peak of his narrow Spanish saddle. My men also kept their weapons within reach, several guns and rifles always lying loaded in the carts, ready in case of an emergency ; and all of the party were furnished with more or less formidable knives, some even with good-sized military swords that had once formed part of the equipment of a Eifle Corps. We were, in short, a strongly-armed and sufftciently numerous company, able to bid defiance to any such small Indian band as that of the Pillagers of Lake Otter-tail. ,1 ' I'll' iH ^1 ill ml '•tjl lip m .11 J , m^ II ril Hl'.l) klVr, I lost II ])aiticiiliirly j,'0()(l knilb, and, wor.st of all, . my watch stopiMid, and tliou<,'h I sot it agoing it novor could bo trusted al't(!iward.s. June 24th. — Having Htavtod about 5 A.M., we avrivo«l at breakfast time at Shoal Like, another very pretty shet't of wat(n', which cannot be nnich less than ten nnlea in length. There was an agreeable variety of aninud lif(3 on its well- wooded shores. First wo observed a wolf prowling round the camp, wheroui»on we took our guns and gave chase, but ho escaped into the brushwood. Then, a moment or two after, as I was returning from the iruitless ])ursuit, 1 saw a moderate-sized, black and white, bushy-tailed animal moving slowly among the thick bushes, and shot it, chiefly from motives of curiosity. It was a skunk,* a much handscjmer creature than might be supposed, and not offensive if killed dead on the spot, as happened in this instance — very fortunately ! for ho was close to the place where our breakfasts were preparing. Soon afterwards I tried my riHe at a loon swinnning far out on the lake, but ho esca})ed by rapid diving, an accom- plishment which renders this bird pnjverbially hard to hit : a modern express would probably be too quick even for him, Itut my rifles, though fast of their kind, carry no heavier charge of powder than the 2^ drachms generally given to two-grooves of that date and pattern. Before starting, I made a grand turn-out of my armament, the baggage being in such confusion that nothing was ever available when wanted in a hurry. I now had the gun- cases neatly arranged in the waggon, putting the more im- })ortant uppermost, and disposing their contents so that anything could be got at in a moment when required. This !i,:V I'll * Mfpliitts Aiuuiicaiin, nu: Hudsoiiica, The Jludson's Bdij Skmik. So:- cuvl—Vrcc. Indians. — ItlcilAiiDSoN, Faun. Bor.-Am. vol. i. p. .')5. £ t •imm^mimmik^^ 50 FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLIOE. CHAP. IV. ?> business finished after great expenditure of trouble, I tra- velled for variety's sake in the now orderly waggon till dinner time, but it was very jolty work, so I had Bichon saddled, and rode for the rest of the day. — ' He went well, and is evidently used to gallop on rough ground, but he was tiresomely anxious to stay with the other horses, and when forced to go on, neighed incessantly, driving away, of course, any game that might chance to be near.' I got M'Kay to try him, thinking he would perhaps go more quietly under his hand, but it made no difference, it was a habit that had yet to be cured. June 25th. — A lort march before breakfast brought us into the vale of the Assiuiboine, up which we pursued our way in the midst of a heavy thunderstorm, till, having come nearly opposite Fort Ellice, we halted and camped. The river at this part of iis course flows on with many windings through levels overgrown with brush and timber. The valley, above a mile in width, is bounded by high wooded banks on either side. It was a pretty landscape, although much was hidden by the rain ; this partial concealment, however, tended to magnify the distances, and add to the scene more importance than really belonged to it. In the afternoon IM'Kay and I rode on together to Fort Ellice, which is beautifully situated at the edge of the glen of Beaver Creek, a deep, wooded ravine that cuts its way at right angles through the hills of the Assiniboine vale. At the river-side we found a clumsy old scow, in which we took our horses across ; then we ascended a high bank by a very steep and diflicult road, which led us to our destination, where we were hospitably received by the superintendent, Mr. M'Kay, accompanied by his father, a retired Company's officer, M'ho was at that time assisting in the management of the Post. CHAP. IV. FORT GARRY TO FORT ELLICE. 51 After tea we rode back again, returning to camp before daylight had quite departed. Sunday, June 2G/7t. — Having so little distance to go, we resolved to cross, and camp in the neiglibourhood of the Fort. My men were all busy with the crossing, so I rode on by myself, and, arriving in time to join Mr. M'Kay at dinner, had the pleasure of sharing in some fresh buffalo-tongues which he had lately brought back with him from the plains, where some of his people were still engaged in a hunt. These tongues were excellent, as juicy and tender as possible, and came doubly welcome after the perpetual salt meat of the last ten days. Early in the afternoon the carts made their appearance, having got safely through considerable difficulties both at the river and the hill ; and a place well separated from the Fort, though not far off, was iixed upon as the site of our encamp- ment. I cliose for my own tent-site a sandy level platform at the edge of a precipitous bank, 300 feet high, that over- hangs the Beaver Creek where it is about a quarter of a mile across. It was a pretty place : as I sat on the camp-stool near my door, I could see to the ve^y bottom of the deep ravjjie, and follow the windings of its course far upwards and downwards, till it lost itself in the distance on either side. Two Indians, an Ojibway and a man of some different tribe, paid me a visit, and were treated to a dinner and a smoke. They were evidently interested in my map of British America, and seemed quite able to understand it, making shrewd remarks about several topographical matters. June 27th. — After long consultation with the three IM'Kays, I determined to attempt to pass to the Indian Elbow, going by a track tliat pretty closely follows the course of the river Qu'ap- pelle. The chief difficulty was to find a guide, for John ■>. m I ^i \ ' 62 FORT GAKUY TO FORT ELLT(!E. CIIAI'. IV, lV:W ;:i M'Kay know notliing whatever of that part of the coiintvy. ;^^any of the Fort Ellicc men were at the plains hunting buffalo, in a different direction, and others were afraid to risk their scalps among the anticipated Blackfoot war pai'- ties ; but at lengtli a suitable X)erson was discovered, a French half-breed named Pierre Nunnne,* said to be an excellent man for my purpose, who fortunately happened to be stay- ing near the Fort. Pierre, however, put an extravagant value on his services, and I was obliged to promise him the immense pay of £25 for one month, and so on in proportion for any further period, — the term of service to be only six weeks, failing a new and separate agreement. Two ox-carts came in that morning from the plains, bringing a number of fresh buf(\ilo-robes, — " robes," it must be under- stood, signifying skins with the hair on, as distinguished from those dressed without the hair and made into leather, which are simply known as " skins." They also brought four calves, funny little yellow things, very hot and tired after jolting such a distance in the carts, unsheltered from the powerful scorching sun. When taken young enough, these animals can be perfectly tamed ; in proof of which there was an in- stance close by, for at that very moment a two-year-old buffalo heifer was grazing about quite quietly in tlie neigh- bouring prairie, among the connnon dairy cows belonging to the establishment. * III the Company's stiiteiiiciit of Jiccouiits t!iis iinlividnarsiiainc is enterotl as Pierre Deiiouiiiinei', Imt in lliceiigageineiit diawii up at Fort Ellico, to which liis mark is apiuiided, the word appears as Niuiime, whicii I liave retained, as it was tlie name lie always went by while in my employ. CHAPTER V FORT ELLICE TO (iU'APPELLE FORT. lllE ufternooii was fur advanced when we left Fort Ellicc. Owing to the amount of our stores and baggage it had become clear that further means of conveyance were required, especially if hunting trophies dropped in by and by to make up extra weight ; so we borrowed a couple of carts from the Fort, and hired the same number of Company's horses. We also supplied ourselves with t\v'o needful things that had been omitted — a spade and a scythe. At the same time Mr. ]NrKay did us a good turn by lending us a handsome black pointer named " Pointer," — brother to that same Blucher who so gallantly chased tlie bear near the river of Eed Lake. He proved a most useful animal, being a good retriever and water-dog, besides possessing the accomplishments denoted by his name. We camped obout twelve miles irom Fort Ellice, among swampy vicldy-^': .3sed prairies, dotted with many detaclied " islands " of pc[-]ar which rose dark and high in the midst of the expansive sea of plain. Jane '.lo'h. — ' Pierre Numme is a quaint-looking oldish man, with a dark, bony. French-Indian face, and long black hair, lie wears leather trowsers, which liave become like varnished 'uahogany from stains and hard usage, a blue cotton shirt, and a dark-blue woollen, nuishroom-toj)ped, lowland mim 64 FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. ,niAP. v. Scotch bonnet, such as I remember common in Forfarsliire in my boyhood, but it has red and white chequers round the headpiece, and Pierre has added a glazed leather peak. His eyes are weak, so he wears huge goggles made of wire and glass, which have a strange effect, throwing a dash of the pedantic into his rough and hunter-like ai)pearance. He seems a good-natured fellow, and is said to bear a high character.' There were thunder showers during the night and morn- ing, and towards afternoon steady rain began, so we made an early halt. M'Kay took advantage of an adjacent oak-grove to lay in a supply of spare axletrecs. It interested me to see how cleverly the nien brouglit the rough logs into shape with no finer tool than the edge of the axe. For my own part, I read Shakspeare's " Two Gentlemen of Verona," and passed a tolerable afternoon in spite of the rain. — ' Tliis open-air life suits me well, though, when one con- siders it bit by bit, it does not seem so very charming. Long wearisome riding, indifferent monotonous eating, no spoit to speak of, hard bed upon the ground, hot sun, wet, no com- panion of my own class ; nevertlieless I am happier than I have been for years.' June 29th. — As we went on our way in the early morning we met a Crec Indian and his wife travelling by themselves, with a dog drawing their effects in a little cariole. He was a chiefs son, and showed us with evident pride a letter to hi;; father from the superintendent of Qu'appelle Fort, full of jn-aises of the highly estimable parent. At leave-taking I gave liim a present of tobacco, and we parted on the most cordial terms. After dinner I set up a target, to see if I vore in good shooting after siieli long disuse, ii'.id made some toleraljk' hits i if CHAP. V. FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. 55 with my favourite Purdey ; then passing the ritie on to M'Kay, he took two shots, and beat me with the second, which struck very close to the bull's-eye. Old Numme now looked- out his weapon, a gun I had got for him at Fort Ellice, — one of the regular " trade" articles, flint-locked, thin-metalled, and priced at but a few shillings over a pound in the Com- pany's tariff. Putting up a piece of can\as considerably larger than a house door, Pierre withdrew some thirty paces and blazed away, bi:t without tlie slightest result. By no means dis- couraged, the persevering fellow immediately set to w^ork to improve his gun. He filed and hammered at the barrel, and twisted it about with his hands, finally he thrust a long stick down it, then placing the jirojecting end between the cart-wheel spokes, levered with might and main till he thought the tube was sufficiently straight. Absurd as all this seemed, it really improved the gun, which, being of the same pattern as those bought by tlie Indians and ren- dered serviceable by similar rough doctoring, was in time likely to become a fairly useful weapon, at any rate for extremely short ranges. We found a most pleasant situation for our evening halt, encamping ourselves on. the summit of a warm dry knoll, carpeted with fragrant wild thyme. At dusk a wolf made his appearance, and sneaked slowly past at the foot of the liillook, taking care, however, to keep himself more than a hundred yards from the tents. Catching up my rifle, I fired a hasty shot at him. I could hardly see the point sight through the gi'owing darkness, but the ball struck hard upon him somewhere, and rolled him over ; nevertheless he stag- gered to his feet again, and limped towards tlvo thicket he had come from. There \\as a f];eneral rush to secure him, the I III i 'ill i l l i ' ll l i ] i.JIUjIlin l I* 56 FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. <1IAI'. V. dogs of course foremost, but Pointev showed none of his brother's phick, and Hector proved no hero, so with two or three snarls and snaps the wolf put them to rout, and fairly made his escape. June SOth. — We had now come to a glorious plain. The sandy soil was covered with a short, crisp grass, perfect for riding over, had it not been for the treacherous badger-earths, which s])read themselves into great honeycombs of half-hidden holes, undermining the lesser elevations and forming absolute l)it-falls for a galloping horse. Nunnne thought we might find cabrees here, so I mounted the Bichon, while he, to my sur])ripe, chose mouse-like little Mouldy, and we sot olT together in search of the antelopes. After riding four miles we saw a buck, but could not get near him. We then observed five others, does and young ones, and as fresh meat Avas nnich wanted, T determined to go after then) in spite of th.^ evident i)Oorncss of the lot. Creejiing bel'.ind a l)ank, 1 got within range of the largest one. Her hiuineh was straight to me, but they had taken alarm and were in the act of starting on their swift flight over the l)oundless pi. irie, so I had no choice but to shoot at once, without much thuught of aim ; luckily the ball went high, and drojjped her lifeless with a broken neck. Pierre cut her up like a juggkn- doing a conjuring trick. One moment, an antelope .stretched along the turf, — the next, nothing there but a paunch and a ghastly back-bone, — the next, Numme in his saddle blandly lriunii)liant, enshrined amids' nicely-cut joints and lindjs and strips of flesh, hun-." round him in the tidiest fashion ; no London butcher's shop more severely trim in its pink-and-white array. The ( .ibree is the oidy antelitpe in America. It is a pretty, bufi'-coloured creature, less tlian a fallow deer, and very *-lU --^ fllAI'. V. FORT ELLICE TO (^'APPELLE FORT. r)7 lightly forinod, in a]>pe{iraiicG sonictliing betweon ii dcev, an antelope, and a goat. The niale.s liave black horns, strong and thick for a few inches from the head, then dividing, — the front half projected forward in a short triangnlar point, the other half much longer and tin-ned backwards in a hook, like the horn of a chamois; hence the animal's name — AntUopc favcifer, or Frong-Jiurned Antelope. They are shy and wary, and too swift to be approached on horseback.* We had a long ride back to the carts, for tlie men had taken a wrong turn and diverged considerably towards the river Qu'appelle. Feeling tired after so much riding under the tierce sun-rays that beat on those shadeless sandy ])lains, I got into the waggon, and travelled in that manner till we halted for the night at the Wolf Hills, a low, rather thickly wooded range that separates two open prairies. It began to blow hard, and about 10 o'clock a tremen- dous thunderstorm bi'oke over us, with torrents of rain at intervals. Wlienever the rain ceased the mostpiitoes bit furiously, and drove the horses nearly to madness. Several times that night tlie men had to (piit tlieir slieltering tent in order to keep \\\) the smoke-fires under lee of which our poor beasts found refuge from their persecutors. July 2d. — Yesterday afternoon we passed along an ele- vated " black earth" prairie, camping at Great Creek, — a broad valley whose sides consist of round bluffs perhaps 100 feet in height, flat on the top, and divided by deep ravines ; but after breakfast to-day we came to plains of a sandy character, * Antiloju! furi'ifci'. ^Ijursldf-r/iii.'.iios, also, My-attchk — Cree liuliaiis. " Till! AntiloiH' fuvcij'cr ilitlurs from the true antelopes, in having a snag or liriinch on its horns, and wanting' the eruniens or lachrymal opeiiinj^s, ami also in liciii!^ destitnte (>t'the iiostcrior or acecssoi'v hool's, there hi'iiig only two oil <'acli i'ooi."- KiciiAitiisii.N', F'liiii. Hor.-.iiiK, vol. i. \\. 'l^i'i. Antiloeapra Amerieana. lliNU, Can. h'.r. E.fj)., vol. i. \\. ;!(M>. * L' JiUB» < W. i H. l liWi 58 FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. ohap. v. also at an elevated level, and traversed them till we roaclied a very pretty lake, which, I was told, formed one of a series that were connected with the River Qu'appello. It is named the Lake of tl e Valley. In size it seemed somewhere iil)()ut a hundied acres, its banks were low and unwooded, its shores composed of sand and pebbles. Farther on it is connected with a narrow, river-like piece of water, with steep wooded banks, which runs out of the Great Creek. After this I rode forward on Wawpooss, and went to tlie summit of a bluff, whence there was an extensive view over a level prairie, bounded by a stretch of woodland in the distance. No life was visible except a solitary wolf — or fox — run- ning across the plain, !N"ot a buffalo to be seen, though for the last two days we had been constantly finding the skulls and bones of former herds. M'Kay, however, discovered a few pigeons in a little grove, and shot two or three of them. We halted for dinner not far from Qa'api)elle Fort, and afterwards occupied ourselves with some more target practice. At 120 yards, Sliort made a beautiful shot with his own double-barrelled flint gun — which was of a class but slightly superior to Numme's single-barrel, — striking very close to a bull's-eye little larger than a half-crown piece. He was said to be equally skilfil with the bov/ : they told me that he could beat any Indiim with that weapon, being even able to put an arrow into a bird hovering on the wing. The noise of our shooting was heard at the Fort, and pre- sently an Indian, riding a black horse plenteously bedaubed with "white mud" (pipe-clay), came guUojting up to recon- noitre us. Keadily satisfied ao to tlie character of the party, he stayed with us a while and regaled liimself with meat and t (bacco, then returned to announce our approacli ; and when CHAP. V. FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. 59 soon afterwards we continued our march, we almost immedi- ately found ourselves in view of a body of horsemen, who were awaiting us on the rise of an eminence at no great dis- tance from the track. They turned out to be Mr. Cardinal — tlie superintendent of the Fort, and five or six young Indians in their best array, glorious in paint and ornaments and fan- tastic apparel. The most striking figure among them was a Cree, who wore a beautiful white robe of dressed skin, bordered with a vermilion and black pattern that seemed to be meant for rows of calumets. They were all well mounted, and rode with ease and spirit, and not without a certain grace, — thougli they crouched very strangely, like wild beasts dropped down from trees. One young man amused me by the frank artlessness of his vanity. Happening to see that I was looking at him, he immediately began to show off in the most undisguised manner, stirring up his fiery steed to all sorts of antics, the rider, meanwhile, ostenta- tiously at his ease, and eyeing me with good-humoured little smiles of ineffable self-complacency. As soon as we arrived at the Fort, Mr. Cardinal took me into a good-sized room, which we had hardly entered when several old Indians came in and joined us. They belonged to a party of Ojibways who were waiting here for a short time before following the main body of their tiibe to the plains. Nothing could exceed the politeness of these Indians, as they seated themselves quietly round the room and smoked their pipes with gentleman-like deliberation, — though with CRBE PATTERN, mm^. m KOIIT ELUVA TO gU'Al'PELLE FORT. tiiAr. V. more than coinnioii enjoyment, for they hud been weeks \vith(nit the comforts of tobacco, owin^' to the; total laibiro of the stores at the Fort. There vsas plenty ot convcu'sation as well as smoking, but none of it of the slightest interest so far as 1 could make out. Ah rifle took their fancy exceedingly ; they seemecl never tired of looking at it, passing it from hand to hand w'th many admiring speeches. We formed our camp about ft mile from Fort (Ju'apj)elle, hoping to be u little out of reach of visitors, but before we were well settled the Indians came thronging in. There were twenty-four men in all, mostly uj:bways. One of the ])arty, however, a young man of pleasant appearance named " Lcs I'rairies," was the son of " Fox.'" a well-known chief of the I'luin Crees, and others of the same tribe were there also. They were the be.st-looking Indians I had yet seen, — ' very civil, sitting or lying quietly round our lire, and touching nothing.' I sent them a couple of .spans of tobacco a-piece, iinddoiible that (piantity to each of the two head-men. One of the latter presently came forward and thanked me for my gift.s, at the .same time offering a dressed buft'alo-skin of no great value. He lingered awhile, then grumblingly told M'Kay that he expected more tobacco in return. ^I'Kay, to whom I had left all these arrangements, immediately answered that we were not tradei-s, and gave him back the skin. The Indians stayed very late : 1 thought we should never get rid of them, ^lany of the women seated themselves a little distance off, and watched us with unwearying interest. IJabies, in little painted cradles, were carried by some among their number. Their dress consisted of a tunic which Ici't the neck and arms bare, a robe above it and leggings beneath. The men weie similarly attired, though no two were exactly alike ; J.es Trairies and another Cree hatl noticeably better II? \I'. V. FOllT ETJJ(!K TO (,H"APPKLLK FOllT. fil clotlios than tho rest. Oiio of the licatl-inciii n]>p('ar(!(l in ii cuvioiiH cap of badger-flkin, — prjliaps in allusion to his nanui, " rointod-cap." After our visitors left us wolves came prowling about, but I could not succeed in getting a shot at these cautious marauders. For reasons of their own, which I never hap- pened to ascertain, the OJibways " danced " a scalp all night, and long banished sleep l)y their monotonous incessant drum- nnng. Snndi /, Jiih/ dd. — The Indians, T was told, w " ,; uch ashanvMl of 'lie conduct of the head man wW l,;^ti olii'ved us thi s n and then resumed his gift, and blained him excei'dii j, !»eing afraid that I would not now visit their cami) and bestow on them some annnunition according to promise. Of course I meant to make no difference in any way. Our first occupation that morning was to leavg supi»lies of tobacco with INIr. Cardinal for liimself and his people. 1 then walked to the Indian camp, accomiianied by M'Kay, who on all such occasions acted as my inter])reter. " S[iots- in-the-sky" (the head-man who had not behaved badly) as a matter of right received our first visit. His tent, like all the rest in that encampment, was a conical structure of buffalo- skins, enclosing a circular space ol moderate dimensions. Several women and children — none of whom were pretty — were seated on the ground, also two or three young men, one of them industriously at work in making triangular arrow- heads of sheet-iron to fix into a set of light wooden shafts which he had already prepared. After due handshaking, old " Spots," in the politesf. man- ner, invited me to seat myself on a buffalo-robe at the further side from the door. He then treated us to a long oration, full t IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 L; IZB |2.5 ^ 1^ 12.2 m % % v%^. V ^^' ■^ /. .^ ^? '^i 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation ■^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716)872-4303 'V- ^v 62 FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. chai'. v. iff' of rather suggestive acknowledgments of my former liberal- ity, and reproaches against the other head-man Tor his shabby and unseemly conduct ; which being concluded, I made a short reply to the ancient orator, and M'Kay then handed him some powder and ball to distribute to his people as he thought fitting. He seemed really gratified, and expressed his thanks with genial warmth and friendliness. After this I took my departure, not forgetting to give some tobacco to the women for their own particular use, as otherwise they were likely to have come off but badly. We next went to call on Pointed- cap, the rival head-man. We did not stay long under his roof, however, for he was far less talkative and agreeable than Spots, and plainly enough exhibited his discontent with my present of ammunition, though the supply was the same as tliat which had been so well received in the other tent. Nevertheless, I thought it best not to seem aware that any want of cordiality existed ; so I was careful to make no change in my manner, and when I rose to take leave they all behaved with the utmost respect and politeness. In Pointed-cap's tent there were two young wives with their babies, and two or three girls, — all of them equally devoid of good looks. There were also several young men. I saw no curiosities either there or at Spots's home, nothing indeed worth remark except the arrow-making already mentioned. In the evening Les Prairies and a man handsomely dressed in the Cree fashion paid me a visit. From the latter I obtained a curious whip, which had its handle and wrist- loop ornamented with mink and fisher fur, and its thong double-lashed towards the point and strung round with pieces of copper, — receiving it in exchange for a flannel shirt, a case in which both sides had the best of the bargain. 11- CHAP. V. FORT ELLICE TO QU'APPELLE FORT. 63 /r I requested him, and Les Prairies, and the Cree who wore the painted robe, to come to me next morning for a private present of ammunition ; which they did not fail to do. Old Spots also appeared to claim a knife I had promised him. [Having much sympathy with the Indians, I felt sorry to have disappointed even an old grumbler like Pointed-cap. But in this case I acted entirely under M'Kay's advice, having to consider the likelihood of an early meeting with great camps of the Crees, and perhaps of the Assiniboines, or even the Blackfeet, whom it would need all my available resources to propitiate, especially as I intended a lengthened absence from the Forts, where alone one could procure fresh supplies. These Ojibways, indeed, had but little claim, being so small a party, and rather beyond the bounds of their own proper territory.] Nearly all these Indians were painted with vermilion, which decidedly became them, heightening the richness of their swarthy skins and jetty locks, and adding lustre to their searching glances ; one young warrior, however, had chosen to mask his face in a veil of sickly yellow, relieved by scarlet spots and streaks encircling both his eyes. It was hard to refrain from laughter at the sight of so extraordinary a figure. Certainly, thought I, this is the incarnate god of bile, if such a deity there be in any of the paradises. A dog happening to pass drawing a " train " after the common Indian fashion, I was amused to see the astonish- ment of my little Vermont ponies, unaccustomed to such sights at home. With pricked ears and starting eyes they trotted after the marvellous object and followed it wherever it went, till at length the dog managed to slip away and make his escape from their inconvenient attentions. Last night the wind was exceedingly high and boisterous. N itMH 64 FORT ELLICE TO QU'APFELLE FORT. CHAI and it continued so during all the day, but it fell towards evening, and there was a singularly lovely sunset. I sat at my tent door till daylight faded into darkness, now gazing at the splendour of the sun as he floated, all gorgeous in strong orange hues, amidst the opaline tinting of the delicate light- grey clouds, now looking on the pages of Shakspeare's "Troilus and Cressida:" — ah! with what different scenes did my memory come to link the most noble passages of that drama. ,/i/:#ifei?k^i_ ml §t CKKK wmi'. f^) Is it It 'J,' 8 S xt CHAPTER VI. QU'APPELLE FORT TO THE INDIAN ELBOW. JULY Mh. — We had arranged for an early start, but a thunder-storm, with heavy rain, delayed us, and it was 8 o'clock before we got fairly under weigh. Some of the Fort hunters started at the same time for the plains, but they were going by a different track, which tended far to the south of the unfrequented district that we were bound for. Our own road ran for a while through a prairie with many islands of brush, it then passed through black-earth plains and swamps with occasional sandhills, then traversed a country of sandy, rolling character. As we were journeying along a cabree rose close to us : I could have shot it had not the dogs run forward and chased it away. This filled up the measure of Hector's iniquities. M'Kay and I held a court-martial on him, and condemned him to death, — as useless, as a fool, as spoiling sport, and as teach- ing the other dog bad lessons. The sentence was instantly carried out : M'Kay put his pony alongside, and sent a bulkt through the culprit's heart. As the poor wretch lay dying. Pointer, a generally good-natured dog, flew at him and worried him savagely, though he had never had a quarrel with his ill-fated companion. Towards evening we saw several wolves, and ran a very fine white one, but could not overtake him.* While we were Canis lupus, occidcntalis. The American Wolf. F Variety B., Lupus 66 QU'APPELLE FORT TO CHAP. VI. ^ ?,11* camping, however, near a large wood, — some miles beyond a place called Long Point, where Nummd had passed three years with certain free traders, — our wolf again made his appearance, so I slipped out alone and tried to stalk him among the bushes. I got within a hundred yards, but by that time it had grown too dark for shooting at any such distance, and to get nearer proved impossible, for he quickly discovered me and kept just out of reach. Jtill/ 5th. — I stalked two cabrees, and put a bullet through one of them at 130 yards. He ran some way and lay down. As I approached him he got up and ran again : I gave him another ball ; it failed to stop him, though it grazed his backbone, making the hair fly up like spray from a fountain. Following on with Nummd, I got another chance. I thought I had missed, for the antelope went on ; but no, he stopped short, swayed about a little, and fell dead — the bullet had grazed his heart. He had but small horns, being only a two- year old buck, worth little except for eating, and not very much for that purpose, owing to his extreme leanness. Then began a long ride across fine rolling sandy plains, as we made our way to the Qu'appelle, in which direction the carts were travelling, but at last we reached the pretty valley through which that river flows towards its ultimate junction with the Assiniboiue. Bluffs 200 to 300 feet high, much scored (apparently by torrents in the spring), and in some places in double and triple range, bounded a vale varying from a mile to half-a-mile in width. Through this meandered the Qu'appelle, at that time of year a shallow stream some albus. There are five varieties— viz. A, 13, C, D, E : — Grey Wolf {Mayhagan — Crees), White, Pied, Dusky, ami Black, all mucli of the same size and character. Wolves vary in size in different districts ; the length, exclusive of tail, is from 4 feet to 4 feet 4 inches : and height at .shoulder from 2 feet to 2 feet 10 inches. — Riciiardron, Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 60-72. ■ CHAP. VI. THE INDIAN ELBOW. 67 twenty yards across, pursuing its winding course through endless brushwood and small poplar groves.* We crossed the river and ascended the opposite bank, taking with us supplies of wood, as a wide, bare, sandy expanse lay before us, dotted with small hillocks and utterly devoid of trees or brush, though not altogether wanting in fuel, being thickly strewn with dry buifalo dung — "bois des prairies" I believe the French voyageurs call it, it is sometimes also spoken of as buffalo chips. We frequently used it in our camp fires. I rather liked to burn it, as it throws out a very pleasant strongly aromatic smell redolent of wild thyme and other herbs of the prairie. The swamps were almost dried up, so we had to march hard and far in search of a good camping-place, which at length we found at the side of a small lake. We expected to meet Indians, but they had gone on, which I did not at all regret. Another cabree gave me a chance this afternoon, but I missed him ; however, I was more lucky with a young wolf, which Kline saw lying in a hollow about eighty yards from the track. * The sandflies were most troublesome all day, and towards evening the mosquitoes came out in force. The latter I divide into three classes : the common brown, the large soft drab, and the fierce little black — Quirk, Gammon, and Snap!' [I named them thus after the well-known firm of lawyers in * "The Cree name of the Qu'appelle river is Kalapayvne sepe, and this is the origin of the name as told me by the Indian : — A solitary Indian was coming down the river in his canoe many summers ago, when one day he heard a loud voice calling to him ; he stopped and listened, and again heard the same voice as before. He shouted in reply, but there was no answer. Ho searched everywhere around, but could not find the tracks of any one. So from that time forth it was named the Who Calls River." — Hind, Can. Ex. Exp., vol. i. p. 370. 68 QU'AVPELLE FORT TO CHAP. VI. I»>. • :u; 1 't f i' Ten Hiousand a Year. The Quirks were pertinaciously blood- sucking, in n humdrum, respectable manner ; the Gammons alighted like thistle-down, and drank your blood with tender slyness ; the Snaps rushed in with sudden fury, and nipped more than they sucked, though careful not to go empty away.] Poor thin-skinned Pointer made most absurd contortions as he writhed under the bites of these tormentors. It seemed as if they came as ministers of vengeance to punish him for his cruelty to Hector. Nor was this the only trouble that immediately befell him. That identical night, as I was settling myself to sleep, tired and feverish from the heat of the weather, I was wakened up by loud and terror-struck yelping, and in a moment Pointer rushed trembling into my tent, seeking refuge from a large white wolf, which, in his anxiety to devour our well-fed dog, had ventured into the very camp in pursuit of him, going close by the place where all the men were sleeping in the open air. Awoke by the disturbance M'Kay reached out for his gun, and with one shot ended the career of this voracious enemy. It was a wolf of the largest size, a gaunt old monster, with t€eth worn to the sockets from long use. No vestiges of food were to be found in liis stomach ; sheer hunger had doubtless driven him to his unusual act of daring. It was the last night he could have crept in unperceived, for we afterwards kept regular watch, having come to a more dangerous part of the country, where our horses required protection from the attempts of Indian marauders. July 6th. — There was heavy rain in the night and morn- ing, and the damp, I suppose, brought on an attack that made me feel very weak and ill for a while. After we set out I :! , ; CHAP. VI. THE INDIAN ELBOW. 69 stalked a cabree, but in vain. Then I stalked three white cranes, which I had observed looking exquisitely beautiful beside a small pool of water ; could not get near them ; tried a long shot, and missed. During part of the day we travelled near a branch of the Qu'appelle, called Long Lake Creek, a stream flowing through a gorge of considerable depth. As we came to the brink of a steep-sided narrow trench of a glen that runs into this valley, we were surprised to find in it a hidden grove of trees, in one of which a raven had built its nest and reared its young. We camped at the end of a lake in Stony Valley. So intense was the heat that I was compelled to leave the tent door open all night, trying for the first time a muslin mosquito net, which was hung from above so as to encompass my bed and form a sort of inner chamber. It answered tolerably well, but not well enough to repay the trouble of arranging it, so I never used it again. — * The flies [mosquitoes] are the pest of creation. Welcome rain, wind, sun, — anything that annoys and destroys the tormentors !' July 1th. — Marching before breakfast we came to some stony sand blufis, where I ran a wolf a little way, but unsuc- cessfully. Presently Numm6 and I observed a single buffalo bull, about half-a-mile from us. He instantly made off, the wind blowing towards him, and as neit lier the ground nor our horses suited, we had to let him go L o r'ay. Hoping to come on more buffalo, 1 mounted the Bichon, and M'Kay mounting Wawpooss, we rode on together and searched all the country round. No game, however, was to be seen, except some cabrees in the distance. Large bands of Indians were evidently in the neighbourhood ; in one recent camp, probably of Crees, we counted no less than forty- ti' -* 70 QU'APPELLE FORT TO ClIAP. VI. ■ t IP' &ii two tont-sitcs. Anxious not to draw their attention, I had the canvas tilt removed from the waggon, as it was by far too conspicuous an object. This was a prairie country of sand and crisp grass, of level tracts varied with hills and bluffs and undulations, of many little lakes and swamps scattered about here and there. Flowers of the gayest colour enlivened the landscape. The most common were the small tiger-lilies and the roses, and next came blue-bells and white strawberry blossoms. Some- times acres and acres were covered with intermingled masses of the orange lily and the pendulous blue-bell, the whole of them so short of stem that the glory of the flowers combined with the rich greenness of their leaves, and it seemed as if a vast oriental carpet had been thrown upon the plain. Towards evening the heat of the weather changed to heavy showers, with flashes of lightning at intervals ; we saw that a storm was coming, and made haste to camp in a wild rocky valley that offered itself at no great distance from the track. Three very young wolves appeared when we entered this secluded glen, but I did not care to shoot the poor little creatures. The plains we had been passing through during the day were thickly strewn with buffalo skulls, the relics of former slaughter by Indians or half-breed hunting parties. ' "We did not see as many ground-squirrels as usual, but, as usual, saw a pair of small bii'ds chasing a crow.' July 8th. — The little wolves kept up a choms all night long, beginning each fresh strain with mewing whines, like a family of peevish kittens, then bursting into tremulous, melancholy howls. The effect was very pleasing ; it har- monised so well with the savage loneliness of the scene, that I should have been sorry to miss this wild wolfish music. The rain had ceased, and it was a fine morning when we f *. Pffi2' CIIAI'. VI, THE INDIAN ELBOW. Tl f : i n resumed our j6urnoy. I again mounted myself on Bichon, in case of meeting with buffalo, and carried a twelve-horo gun loaded with ball, instead of my favourite rifle. M'Kay, as before, selected Wawpooss. No buffalo were anywhere dis- coverable, but we presently observed a large white wolf, and at once gave chase. He ran well, so well that I could not get near him ; "Wawpooss, however, showed his speed, and dis- tancing the Bichon, just as ho had done in a race on the pre- vious day, he soon brought M'Kay all but alongside. Another moment and a shot would have finished the exhausted wolf, but he saved his life by turning suddenly down a steep rocky bank that overhung some swampy shallows of the Qu'appelle. I dismounted and followed, but the beast kept himself closely hidden in a jungle of high reeds and rushes : I could see nothing of him, and got badly mosquitoed for my pains. Soon after this we all descended into the valley and halted for dinner. The heat was intense, not a breath of wind stirring ; the earth glowed like a furnace. The air swarmed with bulldog flies, the only living creatures that seemed to flourish in this stifling atmosphere. We made a long halt, and then travelled up the valley till we came to the Sandy Hills, the first of which we ascended. These hills, covering a considerable tracty are about 200 feet high, and are entirely composed of sand as fine as that of the sea-shores. Near them the grass grows short and scantily, much as on some of the " links " along the Scottish coast. The Crees fancy that the souls of good men enter into a paradise cone ^aled amidst these arid ranges, while the souls of the bad have to pass over an exceedingly narrow bridge, whence they fall into pits of despair and utter wretchedness. 79 QU'APPELLE FOllT TO CHAP. VI. ■- ( i. ■ 't I was nuicli (li.sap])ointcd at seoing no biifTalo, for wo Imd fully oxpccted to como upon tlioni to-day. Tho only tracks of any sort that wc noticed wore thoao of .sonio Americans, who having started for Frasor lliver without a gniilo, had hero lost thoniselvcs in tho desert, to judge at least from the circuitous courses they had been describing. ' Others of tho same party had tMigaged one Whitefoord for their guide from Fort tlarry, but he had positively refused to go by the road we were following, fearing tho Indians, — " les sauvages," as the half-breeds call them.' As wc toiled onwards through the sand-hills tlie heat became almost unbearable. For miles together no water could be found. Pointer twice fell into a fit, choking and gasping in agony, but both times fortunately when water happened to be within easy reach. Ho had another narrow escape for his life, the waggon veiy nearly ninning over him, but the wheel merely bruised his paws, and did him no harm to speak of. The horses suffered miserably from the bulldog flies. Poor Pichon, being light coloured and thin of skin, was more attacked than the others. The blood ran in streams down his cream-coloured sides — he looked as if he had been spurred from head to foot. My aim grew stiff from killing his tormentors ; again and again I slow seven or eight at a blow. Sometimes I counted three or four dozen upon him : and this lasted all day, and only ended at sunset. ' Pichon is a pony of original mind. He is not pretty, indeed is getting somewhat elderly, but he is the most amiable of animals, albeit rather obstinate. Pland affability beams from his countenance and rests on the white star on his l)road forehead. He likes to be petted, and will come up to me when 1 am riding another horse to have his face t^ ) r 3 - ■ *» : m-A.l OHAI'. Vf. THE INDIAN ELBOW. 73 /\ ,'' scratched, which, alas ! it often much needs, for the mosquitoes and bulldogs niako sad havoc of ' lo pauvro lUchon.' ' Of all my horses he is the only one tliat eats flowers, and I have had many a laugh at seeing the old fellow wander off the track to browse on a tuft of blue-bells or tiger-lilies. Ho particularly delights in certain purple weeds that grow in such large tufts as to be often mistaken at a distance for buffaloes. "Why is it absurd that a horse should eat flowers ? I know not why, but it is. An ancient philosopher died of laughter at the sight of an ass eating roses. ' Poor Bichon I his worst fault is neighing when parted by ever so little from his friends. At length he has leamfc that this is a forbidden practice, so ho takes great pains to check himself, and at any moment of forgetfulness or strong temptation changes his incipient neigh into the funniest little muffled squeaks, ending in a sort of low appealing sigh. . . . 'I could go on writing for hours about my horses, for having no companion, I am always watching them and amusing myself with their queer ways. * Much might be said about that strange little pony Waw- pooss, who looks such a weak, poor wretch, and is really one of the fastest and most enduring of buffalo-runners. He is milky white, with rod specks on his head and neck ; his mane and tail are very long and straight and fine, and of a silvery glitter ; liis skin is as sleek and shiny as satin. ' He has the funniest head that ever was seen, very large about the nose, and his eyes have a most singular expression of resigned gravity and patient endurance of life — the endur- ance of a Cynic philosopher, of one soured rather than unhappy. I call him Wawpooss, which means Eabbit, because he looks like one of those animals ; — not one of the silly kind, by no means so, but some austere old buck, who. 74 QU'APPELLE FORT TO THE INDIAN ELBOW, chap. vi. ■11 under sufficient provocation, would dmm handsomely on any spaniel's ribs ; yet he is very mild and peaceable, and all the other horses bite and bully him.'* When evening approached, we began to search for a camping-place near some good water, but for long in vain. M'Kay and I went to examine several small lakes that came into our view ; all of them were brackish, and tasted like bad carbonate of soda. Anxious to cool my horse, I rode him into one thau looked better than the rest ; half mad with thirst, he plunged his head in and tried to drink, but instantly stopped in disgust. For my own part I could not refrain, whatever might be the nature of the fluid, so I dipped down my leather cup, and swallowed large draughts of the tepid brine, and, parched and feverish as I was, it seemed refreshing in spite of its nauseousness. At last we came to a lake filled near the upper end with a luxuriant growth of rushes and wild garlic, among which the water proved on trial to be nearly free from salt. This, it is said, is usually the case where such vegetation is found, — whether because the plants have a purifying quality, or because they mark the position of wholesome springs, I did not happen to ascertain. * Except one or two sentences from my journal, this extract is taken from a letter written about that date to a friend at home. ■I Ai 1 r. I f CHAPTER VII. INDIAN ELBOW TO CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH. July 9th. — The sun was again powerful, but a high west wind cooled the air and made travelling far more pleasant. About mid-day we arrived at the overhanging brow of a valley, and there, outspread beneath us, I beheld the long desired object — the Elbow of the South Saskatchewan. Few but Indians have seen this place, as it is in a neighbourhood too dangerous to be much visited. 'The river here makes an elbow-like angle, whence is derived the name ; its course is nearly due north, and then it turns due west. The channel seems about five hundred yards wide just above the turn, and is full of sandbanks, which give a shallow appearance to the stream. On both sides its banks are broken into bluffs, with wooded ravines sloping gradually back to the prairies. As if in continuation of [the line of] the lower part of its bend [forming an easterly prolongation of the hollow it occupies after its sharp turn], runs a valley a quarter of a mile wide, at the side of which we are encamped. Down this flows to it a small stream [ruiming due west]* that rises, I am told, about five miles off in a quaking morass, whence also proceeds the * The "Aiktow lliver," or "liiver that turns. " — Palliser, Hind. Mr. Hind states, no doubt correctly, that this stream rises in a pond twelve miles distant from the Elbow. —Can. Ex, Exp. , vol. i. p. 355. •i ^i| K ; 76 INDIAN ELBOW TO CHAP. VII. Eiver Qii'appelle, which at first runs due east, though soon making a northerly turn near the Sandy Hills. The valley of the little stream is, in direction, a prolongation of that of the Qu'appelle, but the ground is so elevated at the marshy lieight of land which obstructs it, that water communications between the Qu'appelle and Saskatchewan would be almost impossible.* Arrowsmith's map [then probably the best existing — Sir George Simpson gave me the copy I possess] is very faulty here, the Qu'appelle being shown to rise some sixty miles from the Elbow, instead of within five [? twelve] miles as it really does.' Mr. Hind describes the South Branch, near the Elbow, as " a river of the first class, nearly half-a-mile broad, and flow- ing with a swift current, not more than 350 miles from the Eocky Mountains, whence it takes its rise" (Hind, Can. Ex. Exp., vol. i. p. 366). I cannot help thinking this measurement too largely generalised. I could hardly have estimated the width of the river at 600 yards if it had nearly approached 880 yards (half-a-mile). Mr. Hind, however, repeats his estimate of " half-a-mile broad" ... "at the Elbow" (vol. i p. 388). He else- where speaks of the same river as continuing "for many miles [below the Elbow] about 700 yards broad " (vol. i. p. 382). My own party crossed at a place between twenty and thirty miles below the Elbow, and I there estimated the * Mr. Hind goes fully into this question. He considers a junction fea- sible — "The construction of a dam 85 feet high and 800 yards long would send the waters of the South Branch down the Qu'appelle valley and the Assiniboine into Red River, thence past Fort Garry into Lake Winnipeg. The same result would be produced if a cutting were made through the height of land in the Qu'appelle valley to the depth of 40 or 50 feet, and a dam some 30 or 40 feet high thrown across the South Branch." — Van. Ex, Exp., vol. i. pp. 42G-430. i •I ^' "" ' '■* *' '''* ~'^s^ffW'ii itTi » ii.jtfrir'i:irnLiiii!iiji L 'i ''5 Eye-sketch sJunoing the Elbow of the South Sttskatchcwan , by Lord SotUhesk, 1859. f • \ ""^^^L \ '^^^ \ "^ ■^m^^^^^k m%.. \*y 'il^/^Ki •^i^^KtN^^S'ViffjfJ^M?^^ 'i^ w^^ ^^ '*^'M^i^>^^ ^ >' fc^^^^ •' \ JP/a;i showing the Elbow of the South Saskatchewan : by Mr. Bind, 1858. (See p. 77.) CHAP. VII. CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH. 77 breadth at 600 yards, the river being considerably in flood. While noting this discrepancy, I admit that Mr. Hind is far more likely to be right than myself, both as a skilled and accurate observer, and as being furnished with scientific instruments — if in this case he thought it necessary to use them. It is possible our measurements apply to slightly different portions of the river. Mr. Hind uses the general words — "at the Elbow," while I write — 'just above the comer ' [of the Elbow.] Another discrepancy I may venture to point out. I refer to the obtuseness of the angle at the Elbow in Mr. Hind's map (vol. i. p. 366). In my own rough eye-sketch I make the angle far more acute, and in my diary I note that the stream flows * nearly due north, and then due west,' — my authority for these bearings being merely an accurate pocket compass. I observe, however, that in the maps appended to the Eeports of Captain Palliser's Exploring Expedition {Blm Books 1859 and 1860), the Elbow has an angle, which, though intermediate, rather less resembles Mr. Hind's drawing than mine. On the bank above the Aiktow vaUey we came for the third time on a recent site of the great camp of Indians, Assiniboines we then supposed, but I believe they were Crees. They had evidently driven all the buffalo before them to the hnis about thirty miles up this south branch of the Saskatchewan, the farthest point in the Blackfoot direction to which the other tribes can venture. In the evening I walked with Numme about the river-banks, but saw nothing to shoot, and found the mosquitoes quite unbearable. July 11th. — After breakfast I rode with M'Kay and Nummd to explore the country higher up the course of the river. We went to the top of a hill about nine or ten miles i m iy.* 78 INDIAN ELBOW TO CHAP. VII. ;,ii off, — not a living creature was in sight ; so we returned, keeping along the river-side, among little banks and knolls and patches of wood, but there was nothing there either, not even a fresh tmck. M'Kay having subsequently found out that a great band of buffalo had crossed the Saskatchewan at a place not far from the Elbow, the question presented itself whether we ought to follow them, and afterwards make straight for Fort Pitt, — or travel up stream towards the Cyprus Hills and the Blackfoot country, as we had lately thought of doing. After some consideration I determined on the former route, both as offering better prospects of sport, and as likely to be less dangerous, for it lay almost entirely within the territories of the friendly Crees. Want of water seemed our principal risk in traversing such arid deserts ; as to that, however, we were ignorant enough, only judging by hearsay — the remoter districts being unknown even to our guide. And here an unlooked-for difficulty arose, — Numm(5,this very guide, quietly announced that he would not go with us to Fort Pitt, al- leging that his contract only bound him to take us to Fort Carlton. Tliis could not for a moment be endured. I summoned Numme to my tent, and made M'Kay read the engage- ment aloud, and explain to him that if he refused to guide us wherever I might desire, we would guide ourselves, and would send him back forthwith, on foot, and without the remainder of his pay — more I could not threaten, for he had been partly paid in advance. On hearing this decision he at once gave in ; said he had merely wanted to know what his contract was, — that he had misunderstood something, — that he was ready to go anywhere. CHAP. VII. CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH. 79 l^i July 12th. — We left the Elbow soon after breakfast, and travelled northwards down the course of the stream, keeping as near it as the many ravines permitted. Our object was to discover a suitable crossing-place, in order to follow the buffalo herd, but it was no easy matter to find one, such facilities being rare in that part of the Saskatchewan, owing to the general steepness and muddiness of the descent to' the water's edge. The river became much prettier below the Elbow. The banks had a gentler slope, and were less broken into unsightly naked bluffs ; the stream itself was more free from shoals, and looked very noble in its vast expanse, with level grass-clad pro- montories projecting into it at varying intervals, marking out its course and diverting it into many a graceful bend. The weather was pleasant and genial, though a high easterly wind struck hard upon us as we continued our journey. We made quick marching over the hard, dry, sunbaked gi'ound, crossing alternate hill and plain as we kept along the river-banks, and it was late in the day when we halted. This morning, seeing a cabree btick with a magnificent head, I ran him several miles. Vain attempt ! Morgan did his best, but could not approach the antelope. Then I got on Black and ran a doe, — equally hopeless, even the swift Black was left far behind. As I returned from the second chase I perceived M'Kay and Numme driving a large buffalo before them, which on my nearer approach I found to be an old bull, very thin and sickly and hardly able to move. It was a mercy to save him from the cruelty of the wolves ; so, as he had to die, I rode past him on Black and gave him a shot for practice' sake — a buffalo's strange form making him a puzzling mark for a be- ginner, — but I placed it too high, as one is always apt to do, 80 INDIAN ET;iiOW TO CHAP. vn. ill Bi ^;J 'I i I I and it merely dropped him on his knees, without depriving him of life. I then dismounted, and, walking close up to him, fired both barrels of my gun right at the centre of his forehead. There was no result, no more than if a clod of earth had struck him : the bull continued in the same posi- tion, glaring at me with savage eyes ; the densely matted hair on his thick skull had completely defied the penetrative force of a smooth-bore. M'Kay then gave roj my Purdey rifle. At the very first shot the conical bullet passed clean through hair and bone, and the huge old buffalo rolled over, dead. Soon afterwards we saw another bull feeding about, a good distance away on the prairie. I mounted the Bichon, ^M'Kay took his favourite Wawpooss, and we set out, using every depression in the ground to conceal ourselves from view. The bull, however, quickly observed us, and made off at a remarkably fast pace, with a long start in his favour besides. After some miles' galloping we began to near him. M'Kay was leading, though not by much, and when signs of the finish appeared, he drew rein and let me pass on. The bull was still running, but in evident distress. Sud- denly he stopped short in a small hollow, turned round and faced me. Bichon was rather blown, and as I checked him at the edge of the hollow he made a great stumble, as nearly as possible falling on his head — in which case I should have lauded directly on the horns of the buffalo. Happily my pony recovered himself in time, and the bull remaining at bay about ten yards from me, I dropped him with a bullet in the shoulder, and finished him witli another in the brain. Like many of the males at tliat season this fine, well-grown bull was exceedingly scant of flesh, so we left his carcase, and merely brought in tlie tongue. Even that was tough eating, thougli far from being rank or ill flavoured. VII. CIIAl'. VH. CROSSING OF SOUTH BRANCH. 81 {/, Bichon agreeably disappointed me. On seeing the buffalo he got quite excited, and forgetting his usual lazi- ness, ran far better than I had at all expected from his recent performances. He was a quiet and manageable beast, very different from troublesome Black, who required one's whole attention when game was on foot. No more buffalo appeared that day. There were numbers of cabree, but the plain was too level for approacliing them. Jiili/ IWi. — 'As we sat round the fire before turning in last night, M'Kay and Matheson told me some interesting stories about the Indian magic, ' medicine ' as they term it. The Crees, it seems, are the most noted for these mysterious arts. Some of them, when wishing to injure another man's horse, either tlirough jealousy or to secure a race, are able to destroy its galloping powers for ever by rubbing a certain substance on its legs. There is a hunter at Edmonton who was the swiftest-footed runner in the district. While he was sleeping, some Indians who were in the same tent rubbed his legs with magic stuff j thenceforth his power left him, and has never since returned. ' There are Indian conjurors who will allow themselves to be bound from head to foot with nets, cords, straps, or any- thing ; then, entering their small ' medicine tent,' it is seen to heave violently for about five minutes, after which all the fastenings are thrown out at the top of the tent, not one knot being disturbed, and the wizard steps forth perfectly free. This I had heard before from James M'Kav and also from his brother ; it was ^Matheson who began Sjjtaking of it last night. Angus M'Kay (another brother) once tied a leaf of a Bible in the net, and the conjuror presently declared he could do nothing till it was taken away ! 'John M'Kay and jSIatheson both vouched for the foUow- G mi S'2 INDIAN KL1K)\V TO I'liAr. vit. "fit ing story. Two Itcd liivi-r iiicii of llicir iicqiinintanoc! (\vlio.st> iiainos they mcniioiUHl) lu'iit iiii Indiiiu lor stciiliiij,' thoir clothes. A diiy or two uf'torwards tin; iiicii lioth W(!ut niviiij; niiid ; tlioy spoko coiiHtiintly of tlu! Iiulian, tlicy ev(Mi told where he "would be I'ouiid when ]»(!o|)le were seiitto ii]>j)reh('iid him, ami sure enough hv. was discovered hidden in tliat very place. These two men have been subject to similar attacks ever since, and cannot stand tlie least droj* of strong liiiuor. The charm is said to be wrought by conjuring with a lock of the victim's hair. ]\l'Kay told me that an uncle of his had a wonderful power of seeing what took place at a distance — second-sight in fact. He did not dream, but sat ra])t in meditation, and then told what he saw. He constantly directed the hunters to wlun-e the liull'alo were to be found. On one occasion a man (whose name was mentioned) had half Ids gunlock blown off, when firing at a cow. Assisted by his friends, he searched for it everywhere, but in vain. Next niorning the seer said to him — ' Th(! lock is about ten yards from where the cow fell. It is close to a badger heap, and you will see it glitter in tiie sun as .soon as you get near.' Believing in his powers, they went, though tlie distance was long, and all happened as he had declared it to them. ' Once some horses were lost. He told the owners to go to a valley near Scratching L'iver, where they would find a cer- tain munber of their animals. They went ; all was as he had said. This seer's power suddenly left him a few^ years ago. ' There is a well-known hunter at (name mentioned), said to be a very good, religious man, and he solenndy vouches for the truth of the following story. He was one of the best shots in the country, and was owner of a particularly good gun. One day an Indian came in, took up the gun, looked V 'f rilAV. VII. (MIOSSINC! OF SOUTH I'.UAN'CH. M lit the lock, Imndlcd it a little, and tlioii walked away. The hunter went out huntinf» a.s usual, to lii.s .surprise he could hit nothing. He cleaned and examined his gnu ; — it seemed all right, and shot perfectly at a mark, hut again and again ho found that he mis,sed every living creature with it, though with other guns he shot with all his former skill. Some time afterwards the Indian returned. The hunter told him what had happened. 'Oh,' said the Indian, 'give mo your gun. v, cer- had t i, EIKAI) ol' A CAllKKH, I will make it shoot for you again.' So saying, he took it up, handled it a little, and returned it to its owner. Thence- forth the hunter could kill game with it as well as ever.' During our march this morning I rode a good way into the plain, leaving the carts on the track, and on rejoining them ii:; ti^ 84 INDIAN ELBOW TO CIIAP. VII. whoro tlioy luul Imlti'd noar tlio river, I found that M'Kay had just wounded a lar^'o cahroo buck. It had run some dis- tance, hut I followed on till a lucky chance occurred and enabled nie to finish it. As the head was very fine, I had it prepared for stutling.* After this, wo saw a buffalo bull lying at the foot of a sand-hill, his huge brown body looking strangely sond)ro in its contrast with the pale yellowish bank immediately behind it. I hastened to nioinit the IJichon, M'Kay mounted the impetuous Black, and, managing to get near the bull before he observed us, wo soon pressed him hard, though he ran exceedingly well. Finding we had the speed of him, he suddenly faced in my direction, and made a half charge, as if doubtful whether to fight or fly. 1 shot at his shoulder but mis.sed him, then on he came — with no want of ])urpose this time. I waited till ho got within ten yards, then turning in the saddle I fired my other barrel, — a second failure, for at that moment tin; experienced old Biclion made a (piick side- leap to avoid the horns of the bull, which all but grazed us as he passed, — onward he went, and never looked back at nie, but rushed savag(dy at ^I'Kay who had now just ()j)ened u])on his view. With ready movement IVI'Kay drew his horse out of danger's way, and tried for a flank shot, — snap ! his gun mi.s.ses fire ; the bull, however, made no further attack, but went off as hard as ever he could gallop. By this time my rifle was reloaded ; I followed the fugi- tive, and soon got abreast of him. Again I mi.ssed — or at * Tlip Imins inonsurc 14^ inolios in oxtivnie Icnffth, following the curvp. The lenjfth from root of iiorn to (livertjence of npper part from triangular snag is 5i inches. The distance from point to jioint of horn is 8,J inches ; from point to ])oint of snag, 12^. Width between roots of horns, from 3 to 3.J inches, 1^ vu. CII.VI'. VM. CROSSING OF SOUTH BUANOH. 80 least did not kill; ho wtia hit, porhai)a, but bullct-holos ani iiivisibh; lu Ilu3 thick wool about a buffalo's nock and shoul- ders : however, liit or miss, for sonio good reason Ik^ presently stopped, ami stood niotioidess. I rod(! close up to him, took steady aim, and shot him tin-ougli the heart. 'I do 11 ( think a buffalo bull near so tenible-lcjoking as a conmion bull, nor does he seem to bo very rapid in his movements :' — so runs my journal, but 1 bclievo that I was underrating the power and speed of the buffalo, being deceived by the lumbering awkwardness of his action, and tho grotesque wildness of his appearance. There was certainly one very critical moment in the adventure just recorded, nothing but Bichon's readiness having saved mo from a possibly fatal overthrow. Immediately after this another old bull presented himself, and, thinking that a liitlo sport would please the men, I offered to let any one run it who felt that way inclined. They settled that Duncan, being a stranger, should have the first chance, so I lent him Bichon, with my gun and saddle, and M'Kay and he set off together. When they approached closely the buffalo charged with some savageness, and Duncan was unable to get a proper shot ; however, they drove it nearly np to the camp, when several bullets being put into it, it fell dead, and its carcase rolled into the river. It proved to be the best bull yet killed, though very far from fat. All this time I was having a severe chase after a wolf, which I pursued on foot, while !M'Beath, riding slow little Nez-blanc, endeavoured to cut it off and force it to go in my direction. Being a lame and sickly animal it was soon over- taken by the pony, but nothing would induce it to turn, regardless of shouts, and lashings from a heavy whip, it obstinately headed towards the plains. I followed at a good t 1! :i 8G INDIAN ELBOW TO CHAP. VII. P 1 Ij i CHAPTEE VIII. SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO CHERRY BUSH. JULY 14:th. — * The river crossed this afternoon. All and everything safe — thank God. Some of the horses nearly went under, but all got through at last.' [There were great differences in their modes of swimming ; some of them floating high in the water, while with others little but the nose appeared above the surface, and their utmost efforts seemed scarcely to prevent them from sinking.] We began by unloading the carts, after which the men pushed and pulled them through shallows to a half-dry flat, in ordinary times a long projecting spit of sand but now a sort of island, a good way distant from the bank of the river. Thence they were passed to the other side on the oil-skin scows, which also took all the baggage across in several separate transits. For my own part, I was quickly and easily ferried over by Tonia and Matheson, in an unladen boat. Indians, we discovered, had lately availed themselves of this very crossing-place. Close at hand we came upon the recent traces of an extensive camp. I picked up among the tent-sites a piece of hard grey stone, not unlike a coarse sort of agate, also a broken bit of ore, both of which seemed to have been used for some particular purpose. Fragments of marble and red agate were scattered here and there on the .,^.: 90 SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO CHAV. VIII. rivev-banks. Wild strawbtu'iies, in full ripeness, grew j)leuti- fully near our encampment. Small and deficient in flavour, though pleasant to the taste, they much resembled the variety so connuon in the woodlands of Euroj)e. July 15th. — We continued our march in a westerly direction, and after some twelve niiles over a country of dried-up swamps and sandhills, we arrived at a brackish lake about five miles long and of a shnilar breadth. Its name, if it had one, was unknown, this road being little frequented ; even Nunime had never travelled by the line we were fol- lowing, though he had been on hunting expeditions in the neighbouring country. The bulldogs were swarming all around. I killed fifty as a sort of sacrifice while Toma was cooking my dinner, and might easily have doubled the number had I been so inclined. ]iut it was impossible to clear the tent of such thronging legions, besides they were unpleasant to crush, owing to the stickiness that exuded from tlu;ir large fleshy bodies. After dinner we marched some ten nules fai'ther till we came to a branch of Eagle Creek,* where we halted, as the stream was deci) and miry, and more than twenty yards across. While camping went on, I rode a mile or two into the ))lain in .search of cabrees. A small herd coming in view, I dismounted to look at them, u])on which Morgan took advantage of a moment's freedom, while I was handling my telescope, and galloped stniiglit to the other horses, leaving me a hot and weary walk home. ' This is the greatest trouble one has, — all the horses are They are always looking so unwilling to l.'avo one anotlier * So lit least Niiiiiiiii' tiTiiicd it, luit I Iiavi in this iiiid otlicr similar iiistaiui's. iiiv ildiilits MS to Ills aci'iiracv VIII. CIIAI'. Vlll. CHERRY BUSH. 91 )0: tlu »^' r5: m^ M back and creeping when you are forward, they edge in towards the carts if you are at one side, and they pull and go at a jog- trot if you stay behind. Then they neigh constantly, dis- turbing game, and in short drive one mad. Vermont is worst, but ]>ichon is very bad too. He is nearly cured of neighing now. One cannot stand much provocation here. Al"ter travelling hours under a burning sun, tormented by Hies, batlied in sweat, and i)arched with thirst, unreasonable conduct on the part of one's horse makes one hardly an accountable being.' Jidi/ lijth. — Tliis morning brought us the good news that a vast herd of buifalo were close at hand.* We hastened to cross the creek, and passed through it with no accident worth mentioning ; this accomplished, we began to make arrange- ments for a hunt on the largest scale within our power. Limited by the number of our buffalo- runners, only three of us were to be on horseback. The Bichon was, as usual, my own choice ; M'Kay, on Wawpooss, was to keep near me for a while, and initiate me into the sport ; ohl Numme, at his own particular request, was to ride Black, that most unruly of animals. For the sake of qiuck loading I took a smooth- bore instead of my rifle, by which I also gained the advantage of a larger bore. * " 15os Aiiiericamis. American Bison. Buffalo — Hudson's Bay Tratlois. Moos/oosh — Cree Indians "The Bison, wl)pn full grown, is said to attain at times a Aveight of two thousand pounds ; but 12 or 14 cwt. is generally coiiisidei'ed a full size in the fur-countries. Its length, exclusive of tho tail, is about eight feet ami a half ; its height at the fore tj[uarters upwards of six feet, ami the length of its tail is twenty inches." — IticiiAitDsox, Faun. Bar.- Am., vol. i. pp. 270, 283. " Tiie bull'alo bull often grows to the enormous weight of 2000 pounds." — Cati-in, A'lirth Am. Ltd., vol. i. p. 247. It is possible that the bvitl'alo on the siiuth (if the .Missouri, where Catlin hunted, may average a greater .-size than tiinse ronuiing farther north in the Saskat- ihcwan districts. I mmmmmtf^ 'f;! f- i: 92 SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO (•IIAP. VIII. We soon sighted the buffaloes. They were on a dry prairie, slightly undulated in character, here and there hilly, and bounded by higher ranges to the west and towards the north. Immense herds were stringing across the whole face of the country. The deep rolling voice of the mighty multitude came grandly on the air like the booming of a distant ocean. As we got nearer the herd we could see that a large pro- portion were bulls. They were drawn up in close array ; some colossal old fellows stalked about by themselves at the flanks of the columns. The cows were mostly wedged np in the front and centre, wliile the van kept slowly moving on. When within two hundred yards or so we dashed forward ; they quickened their pace, but kept their order ; we got pretty close to them, the column broke, and the buffaloes cantered off in many separate bands. Choosing out a small drove of fine-looking cows, INI'Kay and I galloped towards them side by side as hard as ever we could go. The harder we pressed the swifter they ran ; they went magnificently, far faster than the bulls ; we tried our utmost for a good mile, but could not overtake them. Presently ^I'Kay cried out that Wawpooss was done, — poor beast, he was still weak from an attack of illness some days before. There was no time for questions ; putting spurs into the Bichon's yellow sides, I sailed away after the cows. On we went, — the heat intense, the dust perfectly blinding. Pulling hard, straining every nerve, Biclion drew nearer and nearer, his laziness quite forgotten in the excite- ment of the cliase, but not for a moment could we get along- side. He began to flag, — it was a case of now or never. I stood in the stirrups and leant over his head, held my gun forward at arm's length, took the level of the cows, and fired into the heaving mass where the best ones seemed to be. To my joy :!! f CHAP. VIII. CHERRY BUSH. 93 one of them instantly stopped ; the others ruslied madly on their course, but she crawled slowly along, her bowels pro- truding from a great wound in her flank torn by the bullet of my No. 12. Giving her a finishing shot, I halted a moment and con- sidered what ne.xt to do. Of my two chief objects one was now attained : I had killed a fine cow for eating purposes — the bulls at this season being iinfit for food. My other object was to get a large and perfectly unblemished head to carry home as a trophy; such heads, however, were not easily procurable, especially in that particular district, where the ground is so stony that the old bulls more than usually destroy their horns when rooting up the eartli.* All this time bands of buffalo were streaming past me ; the plains were alive as far as the eye could reacli. While debating whether or not to go on, I suddenly observed in one of the passing herds the very specimen I souglit for, — ' an exceedingly fine, sleek, round-barrelled bull, not so large as some of the patriarchs, but with very long, perfect horns, and most luxuriant mane and beard.' Hailing this welcome sight, I marked the noble animal for a prey : I remounted in haste, and again stirred uj) old Bichon, who, greatly refreshed by the halt, w^ent on as gallantly as before. Never did bull run more fast and strong. For two miles or more I stuck to him, but by no means could I get within fair shooting-distance. [It was interesting to ride in the midst of that vast black mass of buffaloes, for, as I went on, the scattered bands seemed more and more to unite, and I sometimes found myself moving in a sort of triangled en- closure with living walls around me, as the nearer animals strove to edge away on either hand, while the ranks were * See foot-note, page 96. '•mmmmmii : 1 1'i >^' 94 SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO tllAl'. VIII. closed in front, and over-increasing nunilun-s cunie thundering in the rear. As long as Uiclion kept his footing there was little risk ; the hull'alo were thinking only of escape, the crowd Wiis not dangerously large or dense, and there was plenty of room, for I was still on a gently undulating jdain,] At last my bull begjin to slackcm his pace. ]»y what strange instinct did he know that I had chosen him for my own? — the same band was still together, his companions were all with him, not one had yet (piitted their ranks, yet with a sudden movement he sprang out from among them, and broke away by himself, rushing off at right angles through an opening in the crowd, and seeming to gather fresh speed us he ran on his separate career. It was but for a while ; he abrui)tly checked himself, faced round, and stood at bay. I closed on him, trying for a Hank shot ; — down went his head, onward he came in full charge. Knowing the uselessness of firing at a bull'alo's fore- head, I cantered out of his way ; he followed me a few yards, then turned and resumed his course. Another mile — again he slackened, breaking into a trot as he drew near to the top of a gently slopiug rise, and tl»ere he took uj) his .stand and once more came to bay. I approached till but a few yards were between me and him, — then up went his tail in sign of battle, down went his head for a charge ; but this time I was too quick, the Bichon had slipped round him, and before he couhl make one step, T sent a bullet through his heart He stopped, staggered a few paces, then fell to rise no more. Igototfthe panting pony, and took a long look at my bull, feasting n»y eyes on his nol)le proportions as he lay life- less on tlie crisp l)rown turf of that utterly deserted plain ; then r(MiK»utiting, I began to make my way slowly honie- 5 ( IIAl'. VIII. CIIEUUV BUSH. 95 wards, — thirsty in tlio oxtroino, aftor all tlio licat and dust of the gallo)), but with no hoi^i^ of watnr till most of tho distance had been retraced. On coming '-^ the cow I had previously killed I found J^unnnu standing jeside her: he had sliot nothing, for lUack had proved hiniself (piito nn- ninnagoablo. Preparing to leave the place, he laid his saddle on the cow's body to scare away tho wolves after our de- ])arture ; then, on my offer to stay with the horses, he set olf alone in search of carts to carry in the meat or the troi)hies of the two slain butlaloes. Growing tired of waiting, I followed in the same direction, and on presently coming in sight of the old hunter, a most anuising scene burst n])on my view. Ho was stalking a young bull which had remained in a grassy hollow after the departure of the rest of the herd, — ISI'Kay, or one of the other men, having crippled it by a shot somewhere pretty close to the shoulder. Hi»l in the long herbage, Nunime had crept to "within thirty yards of the wonnded animal, and was now proceeding to open against it a sort of masked battery. Three times the report resounded, three times I saw the smoke curl upwards, but it always rose from a new place as the wary old man shifted his quarters, while the buffalo, mad with rage, leaped round and round, vainly trying to dis- cover the aggressor. Not one of these balls had struck it, for Numme, though reputed a good shot, was just now using the wonderful gun that had been straightened in the cart-wheel at Qu'appelle : — the sport seemed likely to be dangerous as well as tedious, for the buffalo was (piite active enough for mischief, so I thought it better to ride in and finish matters with a rifle-bullet. By this time Kline had brought one of the carts, and JM'Kay coming also, the former remained to cut up the cow, 06 SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO CHAP. VIII. Ill i-i .'■ ] I ' 'I! wliicli was ill tolonibly fat cdiulition, while the latter rode ofl' with me in searcli of my bull, tlio cart following soon after- wanls. We had much trouble to find this bufliilo, for the run had been a long one, and towards the end over a rather broken country, but at last our search proved successful. M'Kay was snrprised at the goodness of the horns ; such fine ones, he assured me, were very seldom met with.* The head weighed heavily, as we found on lifting it into the cart after its separation froni the carcase : we left that to the wolves aud ravens, for it was too coarse and tough for human food. A thunderstorm came on, but we esca])ed with a slight wetting, being near camp when it began : it only lasted two hours, and then the sun came glowing out witli all its former intensity. As 1 sat after dinner smoking at my tent-door, an old bull suddenly made his appearance, on which several of the men snatched up their guns and ran out into the plain to take a shot at liim. I gave my ritie to Toma, who was starting with the rest, and the others allowing him first chance, he made two excellent shots, putting b(,fch bullets sidendidly in at * Tlie lioriis mfastirt' 13 iiu'lu's in lciit,'tli, iiiul 8.1 in (.•ircmiif'.'n'nce at the; base, ami the (li.staiK'c from point to point is 17 iiii:hc.s. The points are sharp anil ab.sohitely perfect, which makes the merit of tin; head, for stronger (tliough not longer) liorns, more or less damaged at the tips, are eommoii eiiougli everywhere. In no ca.se, liowever, are the luiriis of tlus v.iriety of tlie Iiison of very mndi greater size than tliose of the specimen lefcrred to. In Catlin'.s (leserii)tion of the formation of the large circular holes known as " wallow.s," in which the Imd'alo cool them.selvcs in hot weather, he mentions a fact jiartly explanatory of tin; broken condition of the horns of tin; older bnlls. Into some spot where the earth .seiMns damp, " the cnormons bnll, lowered upon one knee, will plunge his liorns and at last his head, driving up the eurtii, and soon making an excavation in the ground, into which the water filters from amongst the gi'ass, forming for him, in a few HKAI* OF A nil'l'AI.O I'.ULL. (Scop flinching (»r sinking, nntil the very brain or heart is pene- trated. Perhaps when the first shock fails to prostrate the nerves it only serves to dull them, producing insensibility to every succeeding shock that does not actually ruin one of the vital organs. No fewer than fourteen bullets had pierced this buffalo. Toma's rifle-balls had both struck him among the front ribs, and were lodged close together under the skin of his flank far back on the opposite side. They had not touched a bone, and were so perfect that I loaded with them again. The bull proved to be in capital condition, with plenty of fat, which came in usefully, as we were much in want of grease at that particular time. Altogether we had killed six buffaloes in course of the day. Besides the two killed by myself, there were — the bull just mentioned, another stalked and shot by M'Kuy after taking Wawpooss home, another killed by Short, and the young one that Numme had per- secuted. It would have been easy to kill K far larger number had there been any object in doing so. M'Kay congratulated me on shooting such a good cow, besides getting so fine-headed a bull, at my very first attempt with the great herd, left as I had been entirely to my own resources. Nevertheless, I was far from pleased with myself, and thus did I record my feelings — ' I find myself awkward in managing a gun on a galloping horse. I do not succeed well in urging my horse close to a buffalo, and shooting it at the gallop. I can kill the buffaloes I want in my own way, but I wish to do it in the best way. Ought I to content myself Avith success in my own fashion, or should 1 aim at perfection? — the latter, I think.' Sunday, July Vlth. — We were camped in a hollow beside a deep narrow lake about half-a-mile long, with low hills :.-l: %/■ riiAi'. VIII. CHERRY BUSH. 9y iiuiiiediately behind us that gvadusilly raised themselves into a higher range. At dinner time our camp was surprised by a very alarming invasion. We were in our tents, thinking of nothing less than any disturbance ; the most perfect quiet prevailed. In an instant, without the slightest warning, a storm of noise burst upon us, — bells jingled, whips cracked, — the tramp of galloping horses resounded close at hand. I leapt up to seize my rille, — it was not there ; I hastened out to my men, and found them equally defenceless, for all guns had been laid aside on account of the Sunday rest. A strange and unwel^'ome sight greeted oui' astonished eyes. Widely apart, extended in a semicircle which completely hemmed us in, a number of armed and mostly naked war- riors were rushing down the slope, urging their horses to furious speed with whip and heel. "The Blackfeet!" said my men, and we prepared for the worst. The invaders were almost upon us, a few yards only lay between us and them, when suddenly they checked their speed, stared at us for a moment, then trotted peacefully up with smiling faces, offer- ing the most friendly greetings, which my men heartily re- ciprocated. The mystery was soon explained. Oar visitors were a party of Cree Indians and half-breeds from Fort Carlton, who were camping on the other side of the range, under the leadership of a hunter named Tait. One of their men, it appeared, while going back for a broken cart, had noticed a couple of our horses which had strayed to the top of a neigh- bouring hill. Supposing us to be Blackfeet, with whom the Crees were just going to war, they planned to surprise us, — and so indeed they did. Each man had his mouth full of bullets, ready for action, and most of them were nearly stark naked; everything had l)L'on skilfully planned, some of the number m ill mu, 100 SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO CHAP. VIII. ' il li : t I had been expressly told off to drive away our horses. They would have shown no mercy, I was informed, to a Blackfoot party : so at least it was said at the time ; Tait, however, afterwards assured me that he had ordered his men not to shoot even Blackfeet, unless positively obliged. There was clearly something wrong in our arrangements. If these Carlton people had been enemies, not one of us could have escaped ; even had they spared our lives they would have carried off all our horses. Had they come by night we should have been ready for them, two watchers being always posted during the hours of darkness ; after sunrise, however, the whole camp slept unguarded, ofl'ering a too easy chance to any lurking horse-thieves. Some change was so evidently required that, much as I disliked interfering with his management of the party, I called M'Kay to a con- sultation, and it was settled between us that henceforth the horses were to be watched incessantly, not merely by night but by day. If onlv for one reason, Tait's coming mi"ht well be counted fortunate, Tln'ough him we learned that both at Fort Titt and Fort Edmonton the inhabitants were nearly starving, as the buffalo were far distant, and the Blackfeet, afraid of the Crees, with whom they had just begun hostilities, were not bringing in meat according to their usual custom. Had we gone directly to Fort Pitt, as I had of late been planning, we should have been iniable to get supplies to carry us to the Eocky ]Mountains, and our stock of pennnican having run short, tlie journey would almost certainly have come to an untimely conclusion. I now decided to go and camp near Tait, hunt buffalo in that neighbourliood, and emjtloy the women who accom- panied his jifirty to dry a large store of meat for our pur- ■•^^^u ciiAi'. vni. CHERRY BUSH. 101 poses. This suited me in another respect, for it brought us nearer to a hill that was reported to abound with grisly bears, a few of which I confidently hoped to secure. Our camp was surrounded by dozens of wolves devouring tlib remains of the buffaloes. Some one suddenly proposing to give them a fright, we all joined in the fun, and sallied forth armed with whatever came handiest, I with the swingle- tree of the waggon, Duncan with a long stick, M'Kay with a log of wood, M'Beath with the tent-pin mallet ; then spread- ing out crescent-ways, we ran down the bank of the lake, trying to force the wolves to meet us, or else to betake them- selves to the water. Away we rush under the clear moonlight, the pace terrific, M'Kay leading ; M'Beath steps into a hole, and measures his long length on the ground ; some fall over him, others keej) their course, bounding down the slope with shouts and tre- mendous peals of laughter. The wolves managed to slip through our ranks, but they had a very narrow escape. All night long Short amused himself by chasing them with a hatchet, which he hurled most vigorously at such as came within distance : he did no execution that time, however, though a most splendid shot with every sort of missile. He was a wonderfully active young fellow, surpassed by few in feats of skill and clever- ness. * After Tait left us the men began to play at a certain game, in which, the players being blindfolded and playing in turn, the object was to be the first to break with an axe a marrow-bone laid on the grass three paces off, — the breaker of the bone to get its contents for his own benefit. Several attempts having been made all round. Short finally proved the successful competitor. He had cunningly taken off his moccasins, then groped about with his feet till he found a tuft 33 wmmm 102 SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO cuAi'. vni. of grass that he know to be near the marrow-bone, thus dis- covering the riglit direction for the winning effort. This morning IM'Kay came upon a sleeping wolf, and hit it so violently on the ribs with a heavy stone, that the wretched creature rolled over as if dead, and blood spurted from its jaws. It summoned up strength, however, to scramble to its feet, and ran off in time to escape a second visitation. July l^th. — The buffaloes were still all round us in scat- tered bands, so after breakfast I shouldered my rifle, and walked a mile or two alone into the prairie in hopes of shoot- ing another fat cow. The only herd I could at all approach was feeding in the open plain, but a slighi; undulation en- abled me to get within 150 yards ; nearer I could not go, being already just on the edge of the wind. The cows un- luckily were at the farther side, a good fifty paces beyond the bulls ; still I thought it possible to kill one, but before I had got fair aim they took the alarm and began to move off, upon wliich I rather too hastily fired both barrels at the slowly-retreating animals. There was no apparent result ; and then I found myself in a difficulty, for the old bulls, instead of moving off too, remained on the spot, bellowing, ]>awing the ground, and looking fiercc^ly about them. I could not load while stretched flat on the turf; if I raised myself in the least, I came into view ; if I lay still, I was equally sure to be discovered, owing to a shift in the wind, which now blew towards thenj. After a moment's thought I resolved to load at all hazards ; so, laying everything ready, I raised myself and load(>(l as (piickly as possible. The buffaloes must, have, seen nic, but none of them showed symptoms of rliarging, and, as nothing more oould \n\ done with the cows, I was glad to leave the bulls without further disturbance. Tln'v were savnge and dangerous at that season, but, from CHAP. VIII. CHERRY BUSH. 103 wliat I afterwards heard, I doubt if they ever attack unless very closely approached or driven to bay.* While coining home I saw an old wolf a long way olf, and saluted him with both barrels. One bullet passed close to his tail, if it did not actually graze it, evidently to his great astonishment, for he doubtless thought himself safe at such a distance, having no experience of guns that were dangerous at two or three hundred yards. On my return we struck tents and made a move for Tait's encampment, which was situated at a place called Cherry ]>ush, nine or ten miles away towards the other side of tlio range. As we marched over a shoulder of these liills, — the " Eoasting Hills" by name, — we passed by many bands of buffalo, but would not disturb them for fear of spoiling Tait's hunting arrangements. A badger was foolish enougli to show itself in the open plain : as a matter of course, all the men immediately pur- sued it. Short, as usual, among the foremost, leaping round and round, pelting it with pieces of dry buffalo dung, and out of some half-dozen shots never once failing to hit its pointed nose. Kline at last ran in and slew the badger with a long stick, — a needless act unfortuiuitely, for the poor harm- less animal proved to be much too thin for eating. Two or three cows then caine past. As they wei'e so close that we could not interfere with Tait by following them, !M'Kay started to run thom on IJlack, whom he hap- pened to be riding ; I started also, though only mounted on Morgan, who was not then rockoued among our butfalo-run- * " In tlif nittiiif; season tlu' iiiuU's ti^lit against each otlicr with great fury, anil at that period it is very dangerous to approach them. The bison is, however, in general, a sliy animal, ami takes to tlight instantly on winding an enemy. ... It is dangerous lor the lumter to show himself after having wounded one." — HR'HAltl).soN, Faun. lior.-Ain., vol. i. [>. 291. ttWWHfcJp 104 SOUTH SASKA.TCHEWAN TO CHAP. vni. :^i h , 1 , -j ijii ncrs. Suddenly Black's girthing got unloosed, and the saddle slipping back, he began to kick so violently that M'Kay was obliged to jump off without delay. On seeing this I halted, knowing that Black would go nearly mad if another horse passed him, so the cows went away unmolested. This happened near Tait's camp. Meanwhile a half-breed, who had a wonderful power — magical, some thought it — of guiding buflalo in any direction that he pleased, was driv- ing, or rather leading, a great band of bulls and cows to the very tents, and the runners had just begun to set out in pursuit. On our amval at Cherry Bush, we camped upon a sandy hillock near a small swampy pool, about a quarter of a mile from the Carlton encampment. Several of the hunters pre- sently came to see us. Tait himself paid me a special visit, accompanied by liis eldest daughter, a very pretty child of some six years old, — a charming little girl, whose bright black eyes and pleasant smiles seemed to bring sunbeams with them to my solitary tent. After dinner a large band of buffalo appeared from over the hill. We prepared to run them. One of the Indians, a very bold intelligent young man named Naposskes, asked leave to ride Black, which, being arranged, I set off with him myself, riding the Biclion, as was now my ordinary custom. For half-an-liour we had to wait in a hollow till the signal was given, then we rushed from our concealment, lilack went I'ight to the front, and Bichca kept well with him so far, but the old pony was singularly restive and excited all the while, and for a minute or two I could scarcely get him to close. Wlien at length alongside, I found great difficulty in making out tlie cows, us there were very few to be seen and it was hard to distinguisli tliem from tlie young bulls. c CltAP. VIII. CHERRY BUSH. 106 As for bulls, one might have shot them right and left by dozens. At last I got a chance at a cow, but missed her ; — no one, till he tries it, can fancy how hard it is to shoot a galloping buffalo from a galloping horse. The buffaloes were now running round me in every quarter, the herd for the most part broken into small lots separated by trifling intervals from one another ; and, having after some trouble reloaded without stopping the pony, I set myself to follow a mixed band of cows and bulls, of various ages. As I came opposite Tait's camp I met the Indian who had borrowed Black, he laughingly held up two fingers to show tliat he had killed a pair of cows. He was very clever at signs. We had previously passed a peculiar-looking skull with slight and much-curved horns, placed by itself on the groimd, and no sooner did I notice it, than he made me understand that this was not the head of a bull, but of an ox — a variety of somewhat rare occurrence ; that he shot it himself ; and that it had stood half as high again as a male of the ordinary description. Scarce slackening speed while passing Napesskes, I continued to urge on the Bichon, but his hardest efforts failed to place me alongside the cows. I then tried two long shots ; both Avere fruitless ; so I drew rein a little, and settled my pony into a steady gallop, resolved to follow to the death. ' How they did run ! After two miles (due west) Bichon began to gain a little on them ; I urged him, and he nearly closed. I fired at a fine cow ; she staggered, but went on, the blood pouring from a wound high in her shoulder. The shock seemed to sicken her, she slackened ; I pressed on to give her the other barrel ; Bichon lengtlicned his stride, we went sailing down a gently sloping hill. We got close to the Irj I ■ \k i'i,(i 4 vi,m- "i\ I'- • \ -3;^^ : lOG SOUTH SASKATCHEWAN TO (ilAT. VMI, COW. I leant forward to give lior tlio fiiiislicr, — crash ! down canio Biclion on the top of his head. ' My gun flow yards away; I shot through the air and fell in front of the horse; he rolled over and over, and tlum came right upon nic in such a nianncr that my left leg, spur upper- most, was pinned under him, and my head lay between his hind and fore feet. I expected instant death, but the good God protected me, and after a minute of terrible suspense I got clear of the horse's hoofs, and jumped up in time to catch his bridle as he rose. Had he been a violent beast like lilack, I must have been killed. As it was, no injury was done to either man, gun, or horae, except that my elbow got a trifling cut. .■/;■': . '■ ■i'-/r;i''0jt'- ' Leaping on Bichon's back, I went on after the cow, but another mile convinced me I could not catch her, as she was going as fast as tlie others, and had gained so long a start. Her well-grown calf was running at her side, as it had done the ><'hole time. A wolf was following close behind her, smelling her blood and anticipating a prey, which he is not likely to get, for the chances are she will recover. «k ( MAI', viir. CllEUllY BUSH. 107 ' I tlicn turned towards camp, and the provoking Bichon, who had gone very soberly since his fall, began to pull hard and neigh. It was fortunate that he was so fond of his home, for I had great doubts about the position of the camp, and he encouraged m^ '7 always pulling in what 1 also thought to be the right dij'ection. He was not wrong. On getting to a knoll I had been making for, Tait's camp appeared exactly in front, and I was soon at my own tent-door.' ■* ;' ■\ 1 ! i .' WIWUlH s-A CHAPTER IX. CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, FORT CARLTON. July Idtk. — Wc busied ourselves, tliis excessively hot morning, in making preparations for a hunt on the range of liills where grisly bears were reported to be so numerous, I determined to take only some of my men, as there was full employment for the rest of the party, during the short time we were likely to bo absent, in killing buffalo to increase ou" miser.ibiy scanty store of dried provisions. It was about 1 o'clock when wa set out. The Bichon carried mo as usual, Numme rode Nez-blanc, Duncan was mounted on the Gris. Napesskes, that clover good-looking In('"an, accompanied us in the capacity of guide. By birth he was really of .French half-breed origin, but having ahvays lived with the Indians he completely resembled them in his looks and habits, and nobody much remembered about his Euro- pean blood. To honour the occasion he had arrayed himself in a new coat, — no less than a supei-fine blue cloth siirtout, with gilt buttons, and a high velvet collar of an anciently fashionable cut ; but instead of trowsers he wore leather leg- gings of the Indian pattern, wliich reached but a certain way up liis limbs, and when the wind blew 1>ack liis coat skirts there was a strange exhibition of rich mahogany-coloured skin. His long, straight, black liair was twisted into a quantity of tails bound round with coils of brass wire. He it was that ciiAi'. IX. CHERRY BUSH.TIIE BAD HILL, FORT CARLTON. 109 tbe tliiy before had borrowed Black for a run with the biifTalo, but for this journey he was mounted on quiet little Spot, as dillereut a sort of steed as one could well imagine. Kline completed tlio party, driving a lightly-laden cart drawn by the horse we brought from the White Horse Plains — Blond, alias ^['Gillis, the handsome and still fat chestnut with the silky flowing nuine and tail. For three miles our road ran due west over the country I had crossed in my latest run ; after that we partly altered our course and tended more in a southerly direction. A cabree appeared on the rise of a little hill, and came forward to stare at us ; I dismounted, and gave him a couple of shots, killing him with the second at 120 yards. He was a three-year-old male with but a poor head, not having yet attained to his full growth. Before we had gone inucli farther the country entirely changed in its aspect ; instead of half-dry salt swamps, with here and there a sandy knoll, we now came to a wide arid prairie, level in character but rising occasionally into hills of trifling elevation. Far as the eye could reach these plains „ere covered with troops of buffalo, thousands and thou- sands were constantly in sight. I might have shot plenty of old bulls, but it would have been mere cruel butchery ; and the cows, as usual, were very hard to approach. I did not wish to over-tire Bichon by running him, and when one at- tempts an open advance on foot — concealment on such ground being impossible — the buffalo always keep sheering off as soon as you get within 200 yards of the nearest. If you follow, they merely repeat the move, and always manage to preserve the same distance. I dismounted, and t'ied one or two long shots at cows, but without any perce]*tible result. i h H ¥ \ i! > H twenty iiiih.'s' tnivi-llinj,' under the e.\C(^s,siv() heat of tlio sun, we at len^'tli beheUl, at no great distance l)o- I'oro us, our destined caniping-))lace — the Had Hill. This ominous name relates to some great njist(trtune that thero befell the Crees or Assiuiboines, but the tradition is lost, or at aiiy rate was unknown to my jieople. U is a range of hills, or rather one continuous hill, extending about ten miles in length ; in height it does not exceed a few hundred feet, and its outline is ])lain and rounded ; it is sconnl by nuiny deep ravines, for the most part overgrown with ])oj)lars and thick brushwood, which form a favourite haunt of the grisly bear. A fatal accident ha|)])ened at this place about a year be- fore my visit. Two Indians, while gathering berries on the hill, were attacked by a grisly who was lying concealed among the bushes. One man he instantly knocked down, then seized the other and killed him : meanwhile the first succeeded in making his esca[)e. The Indians are afraid to stop in one particular glei;, which is very nmch fre([uented by these savage bears ; w^e, however, had no hesitation about , cami)ing there, as it had the advantage of a remarkably line spring of water. Besides the risk of lurking grislies, which did not much trouble us, there was the far more serious risk of I'lackfoot war-parties, for this hill lay right in their accustomed path. If they had come — 'Xapesskes's neat, boat-shaped skull would have been shorn of its covering, the Crees and lUack- feet being now at war ; our horses, too, would have been taken — if nothing worse.' lietween us and the l>ad Hill, as it first a]>pearedin view, stretched a flat valley of fine level ]trairie hind, to which we descended along a gentle .sloite, and after two or three miles' ii ^ *-JLj; I MAI'. IX. i-'oirr cAiM/roN. Ill inivcUiiij? arrivi'd iit tlu; Htnmm wliic^h lluws IumumiIIi the hill — tho Iviglo Creek ii;,'ain, iit that point not lav tVoni where it takes it8 rise. The water was brackish, Just as it was in the lower part of its course. Wo crosscnl it easily, and camped about S I'.M. in the wood}' ravine which lias been already mentioned. July 2Ui)roached us, eyeing us with the ]iret- tiest timidly in«piisitive glances, till on getting very close her keen no.strils told her a truer talc than her eyes had skill for, and away she bounded and hid herself in the leafy shades. We had nearly reached the farthest ravine towards the hill's north-eastern extremity, when we at last l)eheld some of the objects of our search : a largo female grisly bear and her cub walking about in the open, on high bare ground, not far from the upi)er part of a dense-growing thicket of brushwood. We inunediately gave chase to cut them oft" from the covert : they were too quick for us, and made good their retreat into its deep recesses long before our arrival within rille-range. On this Numme and I dismounted, and crossing the little stream that ran along the bottom of the glen, now inunediately beneath us, we began to ascend the opposite bank near the thicket where the bears were shelter- ing. Suddenly Nunnne called out — Shoot ! and on looking round I saw the large bear sitting up on its haunches, full in view, but it was not less than 150 yards from the place where we stood. The light was indifferent, and the large rille in my hand was quite unfamiliar to mo, having only once been tried 5 * , ( .1 112 CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, CHAP. IX. 11 ™ I at all, and never at long range, — I would not attempt the shot at such a distance ; meanwhile the grisly turned back into the bush and began to cross the ravine. We returned to the siile we had come from, and rejoined Napesskes, who had posted himself at the edge of a bank that commanded a clear view for some Avay down the descent. Presently a buffalo bull came rushing out from below, and Napesskes said that he saw the bear strike it as it passed. A minute or two afterwards appeared the bear itself. It stopped on a little knoll right below us and about 100 yards off, reared itself on its hind legs, and swayed slowly from side to side, staring at us and trying to get our wind. Quickly putting aside the heavy rifle, I took my favourite Purdey, and fired. Tlie first shot missed ; tlie bear turned itself half round ; before it got its forefeet to the eartli I struck it hard and fair with the second shot. It nearly fell over, then partly recovered : we expected it to charge, but with no attempt to do so, it rushed away into the thickest of the bushes. At that moment Nuumie (who had gone to the opposite side) saw a bear running rapidly past, and fired both barrels of my No. 12 at it, hitting it, as he rather thouglit, with one ball. We rode across and joined him. ' We were now on a steep bank, with thick underwood beneath us, and could see the bushes moving to and fro as the wounded bear writhed and raged in his pain ; we could also hear its heavy panting, but the beast itself was quite concealed. Presently we heard it splashing in the water just below ; then it lay still, and neither shots nor stones could move it. * We Mcnt down close to the thicket where it was, and watched for a long time. Numme said that it was lying liid, crouchin" in readiness to clutch anv one mIio came M'ithin C'llAl'. IX. FORT CARLTON. 113 i'/ reach, and if (as lie supposed) it was a female with a cub, it would be doubly savage and dangerous. He assured me it would not do to go into the bush, which, besides being twice as high as a man, was as d(3nse as a common thorn hedge. I confess I should have been sorry to go in, but had the hunters advised doing so, of course I should have gone. Napcsskes after- wards said that he would have been willing, but that Numme objected. As the former speaks nothing but Cree, and made no signs, I could not say what might have been the extent of his readiness. To go in appeared to me sheer madness. ' We at length determined to leave the place, and return in the evening, or next morning, by which time the bear would be dead, or at any rate stiff from its wound ; so we rode back to camp and breakfasted. * Afterwards we rode along the whole length of the hill, exploring all the valleys, but saw nothing except the small deer which somewhat answer to our " roe." They are called " Black-tailed Cabrecs " by the Indians, but improperly, for the cabree is an antelope, and does not shed its horns as this deer does.* ' There was an extensive view from the top of the hill, though the day unfortunately was not very clear. The Bad Hill faces to the north-west. Eunning south-Avest is the long range called the Boasting Hill, near which Tait was camped. Between the western extremities of these ranges there lies a small lake, out of which flows the Eagle Creek. A long way to the south-east is a larger piece of water called the Little Devil's Lake. This ]}ad Hill is the farthest point to M-hich the Crees and Stonies [Assiniboines] ever come, as ■ L ,1 ' * Ccrvus iiiiic>r(itis — Tlic Jihicl-lnihil J)r,'r,ov .VnJr Dim-, ov Junijn'iig Drcr . . . . ciiUcil liy till' t'auatliiiii voyagours " c7i('ivt«(7." — Kichaiidson, luiini. Iioi\-Aiii., vol. i. i>. 'li)\. I . iUJLmumia BBf' -a 114 CHERKY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, CUAl'. IX. M there is no wood for an immense distance beyond it, when journeying in the Blackfoot direction. Captain Blakiston hunted over the neighbouring plains, but it is believed that no European (not a resident in the country) has been on the hill but myself. Arrowsmith's map [1859] is utterly wrong herealiouts. It places Eagle Hill Creek about forty miles north-west from its real position.' * Eeturning in the evening we perceived a few buffalo feeding on a strip of rugged broken gromid that stretched along the foot of the hill and formed an intermediate belt between the higher and lower levels. I went towards them alone, and had no difficulty in making my stalk, crawling under cover of a little rocky knoll till I got within range of the cows that seemed to be in fairest order. I fired at a rather good one, and hit her low on the flank ; at that in- stant another shot struck her from the opposite side, the two reports almost mingling in one. It was Napesskes, wlio lia/ing gone forward in scarcli of buffalo some while before, liad, by a strange coincidence, stalked and sliot at the same cow that I was stalking, neither of us having the least idea as to his fellov; -hunter's proceedings. The wounded cow staggered almost to falling; she had strength, however, to move heavily on. Napesskes went in • I am inclined to tliink that the Eaglo Hill Creek of Arrowsmith's map is a totally (liU'erent stream I'roni that referred to above, wliieh I suspect was erroneously designated by Nunnne (whose aeciuaintaneo v.itli the district was scanty enough) — unless, indeed, the stream possesses more names than one, as not unfre(iucntly happens. Finding myself unabhi to lay down the locali- ties iii this neighbourhood in a manner correspondent with the description in my journal, 1 fear that some error must exist among the original notes them- selves,— through a slip of the jten, or, more probably, from misinformation. Nevertheless, I oiler the particulars as they stand, lioping to draw the atten- tion of future travellers to the subject. .1 CHAP. IX. FORT CARLTON. 116 pursuit, and I was just in time to get a shot at another cow while she was in the act of disappearing over the knoll, and my bullet raked her from stern to stem. She stopped, crawled on a few yards, then Nummd finished her. Napesskes mean- while was following the wounded cow down into the plain, and as soon as she arrived there a bull came forward to pro- tect her, keeping constantly at her side, and putting himself always between her and danger's way. For a good while he would not be driven off, and Napesskes, with laudable humanity, refrained from killing him ; at length, however, the skilful hunter managed to scare him away, and then very easily secured his companion. We found her to be tolerably fat, — a fortunate circumstance for us, for our provisions were nearly all expended. ' It is very cool at night at our elevated camp, thougli the days are so hot ; and this is a comfort, as the cold keeps the mosquitoes down, — indeed I am almost beginning to forget the existence of the plagues. This respite, and the good spring water, have made me feel much better than for some time past. There is great scarcity of jnire water in the central country. From Crow-wing to Fort Ellice we did not see a single spring. There is a fine, though small, running stream flowing into the Qu'appelle near where we crossed, • but from that place to this we have found nothing at all resembling it. Our drink has been either swamj) water, bad tasted and full of insects, or else muddy river water. Wild raspberries, strawberries, and gooseberries, grow abundantly on the Bad Hill.' July 2\st. — Again I rose at daybreak, and set oat in search of the wounded bear. All the party went with me except Kline, who was to follow us with the cart, when he had finished packing up the tent and the rest of the baggage. On n '■1 ''•* '■ * 4' • ' \ ; % 1 \ ■ » 1 ', \ ^■ M--r trntrnmrs^pam fi ''t u 116 CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, CUAP. IX. reaching the ravine where we expected to find the grisly, Numnie, Duncan, and I, crossed over to the place where it had last been moving among the bushes, while Napesskes stopped on the bank I liad shot from, to report if anything broke out that way. Leaving Duncan with the horses, lest they should take alarm tlu'ough some glimpse of the lurking enemy, Numniu and I then entered the thicket on our knees, creeping along side by side, our weapons on full cock, — I car- rying the large Dickson rifle, he bringing forward one of my twelve-bore Purdey guns. ' The bushes seemed almost impenetrably thick, but after crawling through the outer brush we found a sort of path about two yards wide. It led to a small pool of water over- arched with thick brushwood, and beside it we saw the grisly bear lying dead on its back, with its legs outstretched and its bowels protruding from a hole in the side of its belly. 'Numme, who, as yet, had supposed it to be a female, now held up his hands in surprise. " C'est un taureau ! " he exclaimed ; and sure enough it was, being a male not quite full grown, — about three years old. The tracks of a cub were stamped in the mud all round, most singularly like a child's footmarks. This brought such thoughts 'o my mind that I felt almost glad the little bear and its mother had escaped. She had probably slipped away in the bush, while the male, already tliere, showed himself and got shot. ' At first, on seeing the large wound in the bear's side, I thought Numme niust have hit it with the twelve-bore, but we soon discovered the small round hole where my conical ball had entered, on the right side above the hip, spreading in its passage through the animal's body so as to tear a great riigged hole on the opposite side. Nummt' kept all along assuring mo that the shot could not have been his, but I 1 f ir CHAP. IX. FORT CARLTON. 117 thought he might be saying this from mere politeness. Now, however, there could be no mistake, for though a small bullet may make a large hole, a large bullet cannot make a small one. 'We skinned the bear and took his skuU.* No object could be more appaDingly hideous than a fresh-skinned bear. He is like a monstrous mis-shapen man, of giant strength and devilish ferocity, — a true Hans of Iceland. His head especially, all raw and grinning, is " a thing to dream of, not to tell." ' Close by the carcase grew a profusion of wild mint, the very scent of which seemed to draw ugliness from its disgust- ing neighbourhood. I often used to put mint leaves into my tea to correct the taste of the foul swamp-water ; I never did so again. " From the eater came forth meat, from the strong came sweetness," was no true proverb for me. The skinning operations well over, we breakfasted. Then, having been joined by Kliue, with his cart, we set out on our return to Cherry Bush. As we were travelling along, we came upon a new-born buffalo calf : we merely looked at it and went our way, leaving it quietly crouching in the grass. The mother cow, however, seeing us so near its resting-place, came running from the herd, and full of the notion that her little one was being carried off, the poor foolish creature never went to see if it were still where she had hidden it, but kept following on and on, watching all our movements with an air of most pitiable anxiety. In vain we tried to drive her back, she would not be driven, she seemed incap- able of fear ; but after a long time, she quitted us of her own * Both skin ami skull were brought safely to this country. The former measures 5 feet 8 inches in its present rather dried condition. Some large old grislies reach 8 feet, or even 9 feet, in length. 1 I, ■gwa mmeJu M^ a;. 'f ^ :TC i p; I , W 118 CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, CHAP. IX. accord, and slowly retraced lier steps : we hoped that she found the little calf alive and safe and well, but most pro- bably the wolves had devoured it while she was far away. The buffalo were trooping all over the plains, not in dense enormous herds, but broken into innumerable small strag- gling bands. I was more than ever struck with the likeness of the old bulls to lions, as we saw them standing apart on the low ridges and sandy knolls, eyeing us from afar with an air of savage watchfulness, — each neck crested with a luxu- riant mane, swelled into greater largeness by the hump be- neath it, each short, tufted tail held straight out from the body in bold and lion-like defiance. In one scattered herd I noticed an animal towering far above the rest ; it was one of those glossy, fiat- sided, long-legged oxen already spoken of. They fall into this condition in calf-hood, either from the attacks of wolves, or from measures taken by the Indians. As these cattle are rare, besides being the best for meat, I began to run him, wishing to secure a fine specimen; how- ever, I soon gave him up, for he had so long a start and went so well that I could not hope to overtake him without the risk of losing my people, and perhaps falling among hos- tile war-parties. AVhen nearer home I ran a cow, and shot her very easily ; she was poor and lean, which accounted for her bad running, so we only took her tongue. About 2 o'clock we reached Cherry Bush. Just as dinner was over, a few bulls rushed past close by the tents, and some being wanted at the time, we all turned out to slioot thcuL I fired at a young bull galloping hard, about 200 yards off, and broke his foreleg witli the Puvdey rifle; I' tlien chased liini Dickson in hand, blazing at him as I ran in dreadfully out of breath, and by chance hitting him in the ribs. It was a mere graze, and he would have escaped. CHAP. IX. FORT CARLTON. 119 for I had no ammunition with me, but M'Kay and Kline coming up at the moment followed on in pursuit, and the former stopped him with a well-planted bullet. It was lucky that the bear was dead when Numme and I crawled up to him, for, on shooting off the Dickson rifle, both barrels hung fire badly, having been too long loaded, and much shaken on the saddle. The check would have thrown out my aim at the critical moment, and we should have been at the mercy of the grisly, who, in such a thicket, and at suc^ c\f'" quarters, would have killed us both, unless the ol . unte ad shot a good d ■ jetter than he had lately made a habit of doing. I was vexed to find that my absence had lost me the chance of a larger bear than the one I had just brought home. It came prowling about the hunter's camp the very day we started for the Bad Hill, and Tait, while riding alone, discovered it in a swamp, and ran it to bay in a small piece of water, where he shot it without difficulty. It was a full- grown male, and very thin. M'Kay, by my permission, had been giving Morgan a trial with the buffalo. He found my gallant pony both fast and fearless, and as good as any trained runner, and succeeded in shooting five cows off his back in a single race. M'Beath shot two off Wawpooss (who was now himself again), and shot the same number off' La Framboise, — an animal who went well while he lasted, but very soon shut up. "We were thus plentifully supplied with meat, which the Carlton women were engaged in drying for us. [During our stay my people made a set of cart harness in a very singular manner. They carved it out in its proper sliape on the very body of a bull as he lay back upwards, and then lifted it up complete in a single piece. The sun >' ■* mi n !H| 1 1 ^ ! fS if \ ^ i\ ( ■(■ I ! ij ■> h .] II 1 .!| ■ ■ ■ M i i ^T m m nt mmmm I 120 CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, CHAP. IX. quickly dried the raw hide, and it turned into the toughest of leather. They also made some of the long lines that are used for so many purposes. These they carved out in the same fashion from the hind quarters of a bull, by forming a series of spirally-enlarging circular cuts, passing the knife under them, and lifting off the hide exactly like the skin of a well- peeled apple or orange. The ends were then ui-cached to two stakes, between which the strip being tightly stretched, it soon became a straight and perfect line. When running buffalo, tlie hunter generally carries a line of this sort coiled up and tucked under his belt, one end being fastened to the horse's head. Should a full take place, as it frequently does when biidgcr-holes are numerous, the line uncoils itself from the rider's belt as he is quitting the saddle, and trails upon the ground, making it easier fur him to recover his horse.] HI rrAi.DiiiDK I. IMC Jtihf 22(1. — The hunters were starting to run buffiilo : so I had ^lorgau saddled, and went with tliem. The brave little horse dashed to tlic front, perfectly obedient, full of life and spirit, I singled out tlu* leading band of cows and tried hard to close for a slif»t, but it was long ere I could approach them, though the pony was straining every nerve and going quite '.U CHAP. IX. FORT CARLTON. 121 magnificently. After two miles of it they showed signs of failing, and the poorer ones stopped. I cheered on little Morgan and urged him to his utmost ; he made new efforts, dashed forward, and brought me near one of the finest, one of a sleek pair that kept well before the rest of the band. My wrist was tired from holding a heavy five-chambered carbine, — I missed the first shot, but, closing with the cow again, I gave her a second ; it toL \ard on her and she nearly stopped. Looking on her as safe, I followed her companion, and ran her for some distance ; but finding the chase likely to be too long, I returned to the wounded one I had left behind. She had partly recovered, and galloped off in a way that surprised me, however I soon overtook her ; she turned short round, and came to bay beside a pool of water among the sand-hills. I stopped my pony. The cow instantly made a slow but vicious charge, then resumed her former position ; and this manceuvre she repeated whenevei I drew up in hopes to get a steady shot : — there she stood, her head inces- santly towards me, her eyes glowing with rage.* Again and again I tried to pass round her, but she always baftled me by quickly revolving in her place, sometimes trot- ting forward a few steps as if intending to charge ; mean- while my beautiful pony, brave as a lion, seemed ready to rush against her very horns, pressing towards her even, so tliat 1 was obliged to restrain his ardour. But the end came at last. Taking a moment when the buffalo lowered her licad, I gave lier a shot somewhere in the * Why is it, among all sorts of animals, that when brought to bay some individual ones oxpri'ss such more than common fury in their ej'es ? Hers were like emerald furnaces : no bull ever looked so fierce as she diil. Of tlie many stags 1 have shot, I remember but tw o that glared with this remarkable expression of intense, everlasting hatred. : I I t ^■i\ . i i\ v,| • n ■m .1 ; ,1 r, * 1 II If is I ■jitii $ 122 CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, CHAI'. IX. neck or chest. The sudden stroke confused her, she half- turned, and offered me a faher chance ; then I shot her through the heart, and the gallant cow fell dead, with lier face still to the foe. Tying my neck handkerchief to her horns to scare the wolves away, I returned for a cart, and IM'Kay and Short getthig into it, we went off together to fetch hor home. Mor- gan had done enough, so T took Vermont instead. lie was ' as idiotical as usual,' going out reluctantly but pulling all the way back, hurting my hands most cruelly by tl.is peiTcrse conduct, for they were blistered from buffalo-mnning with- out gloves under a scorching summer sun. After some searcli we found the cow. She was surrounded with wolves, but none of them had dared to brave the terrors of my black and white handkerchief While the cutting-up pro- ceeded, I hid myself in a sand hollow close by, and fired at several of these greedy sneaking thieves, killing one — a largo female; and on the way home I struck another. — 'The wolves are detestable wretches, l)ut do more good than harm to man, seldom attacking horses or human beings, and de- vouring carcases and offal that would breed a pestilence if left to rot.'* It is their habit to hang round the buffalo herds, preying on any young or sickly animals that fall into th(>ir clutches, but carefully shunning the horns of the strong old bulls. A young calf separatc(,l from its mother stands but a poor chance. That very day wo saw a tolerably lavge one * These wolves were eliie(!y of the sniaHer kind — Caiiis hitnms — the Prairie Wolf, Cased /Fo^irs— Huilson's Wax Co. Lists. J^fccs(ch-cfllHJlJl>nrcsh — Cree ImliaiLS. (Tlie h'ligtli of these wolve.s is al>nut tliiee feet ; that of the large wolve.s — Caiiis lupus, — upwards of four feet.) IiIcii.mih.son, Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 73, 71. The gi'cat wolf is saitl to be very good erring (like th(! do^, whieii is a favouriti^ Indian food), hut the smaller wolf is i:on- sidered uneatable. i CIIAP. IX. FORT CARLTON. 123 pursued by a band of wolvoa in a string of a quarter of a mile, each following at a few yards' interval behind the other. The foremost, considerably in advance, was close upon the calf, which was bleeding at the nose and throat ; — another minute would have settled its destiny, but M'Kay galloped up and overtook the wolf, too busy to notice him, and shot it in the haunch, saving the poor calf at any rate for a time. If it failed to find its mother the reprieve must have been short enough. * Last night the wolves and the innumerable dogs at Tait's camp made noise enough to wake the dead. The dogs were disgusting with their horrible yelp and yowl, but I confess to a liking for the wild, melancholy, and almost musical notes of the wolf. Buffalo bulls, roaming about unscared by our tents, were bellowing around us all the while. [The sound is rather deep than loud] ; I have heard louder roaring from stags in many a Scottish deer-forest. The bulls were beginning their rutting season. Pairs might everywhere be seen outside the herds, consisting of a cow and an attendant bull who had taken her away from the rest ; but this I believe was rather exceptional, the sexes generally remaining together in large bands as usual.' ' I find buffalo meat tolerably good, but not nearly equal to fine beef. It is better in autumn they say, so I suspend my judgment.' Thus runs my journal, but I believe I was mistaken in that depreciatory opinion. In fact, we never kept the meat long enough, being obliged by the heat and the flies to use it the day it was killed, or soon after, which jjrevented it from having a fair chance to become tender. One of the women brought in the bear-skin, very nicely prepared. It looked remarkably well, but I confidently ex- \ ■ II r ^li'. i s! ei!»>am ' »^» mmtamimmKttifimmffim ij « 194 C'lIEIlllY BUSK, THE BAD HILL, • HAP, IX, « f.li pcctod to get mucli larj^'cr specimens of tlie grisly before my journey was conflicted. These Indian women had been most serviceable to us in dressing skins and hoads, drying meat, and mending or making clothes ; so, Avhen adding a small present to the mere payment for their work, I was glad to lind among my stores a ])areel of beads exactly to their taste. It amused me to sco that fashion reigned here as imperiously os in more civilised lands ; some fine, richly-colt>ured, oval bi^ads, the size of pigeon's eggs, wiiich 1 consickirod my best, and which a year or two before would have been generally admired, were des- l)ised and out of date, while the little trashy white ones, no bigger than a ]>in's head, were highly a]»preciated. Perhaps the small ber.ds were valued as useful for endu'oidery, iu which the Indian and half-bi-eed women excel ; while the larger ones, oidy ser\ ing for necklaces and ornaments, had come to bo thought too barbaric by those who lived at the Forts. * In course of the afttMiioon the men employed themselves in feats of strength and skill. M'Kay seemed strongest in the arm. Kline showed himself both strong and active. Among other performances, he rolled a stick from under him, from breast to feet, while raising himself off his ehest on his arms alone.' 1 did not like the five-shot revolver carbine. It was very heavy, so short as to cause a dilliculty in dealing the horse's head when shooting ftirward, and there was such an esca])e at the breech as to scorch one's wrists and burn one's shirt sleeves — for in the hottest weather we often left our coats at home. The first shot made ^lorgan shake his ears a while, tlu^ muzzle being so close to them, and when I afterwards fired from tlie sjioulder several grains of powder struck pretty shar]»ly upon my left cheek. i' t ,'«, CHAi*. tX. FORT CARLTON. 125 Tho twclvo-boro gims ai -'verecl best for buffiilo-nuiniiig, boiii}^ quickly loaded ; — though too precious to bo loaded in tho (luickest way, as tho lialt-brcecls manage tho ad'air. These lumters go into action with their mouth full of bullets and a largo horn of powder round their neck, and after each dis- charge pour a chance handful of powder down the barnd, spit a bullet in on tho top, and strike tho stock against their heel to send all homo ; tho lock being of tho old llint-and-steel pattern, with a very largo touch-hole, arranges itself if tho chamber is closed. Of course the gun, thus loosely loaded, is held upright till tho moment of firing, when the muzzle is so sharply tilted downwards that tho ball has not time to drop out before tho powder actf., —though now and then a burst docs happen. The half-breeds never lire off tho shoulder from horseback, but hold tlio gwa out with bnth hands, in which manner some of them shoot accur rely to a good long distance. JiUi/ 2M. — While wo were at the Bad ^Till, Indians en- io from a great camp of Crees, a day's mai ch I'vom Tait's, and reported that Blackfoot war-parties were spread all over the country, and had been trying to entrap them into ambus- cades, — unsuccessfully, however, * as they had been too often caught to be easily caught again.' This : -ews determined mo to go to Fort Carltn: i instead of Fort Pitt, for thus I might hope not only to escape the Blackfeet, who would steal my horses, but also to avoid the Crees, who would certainly be troublesome, even if they did not plunder to the same extent ; besides which we should go:,i -lie advantage of travelling with Tait's people, who were now preparing for their return. As I had hunted enough for the present, there was no longer any object in continuing the direct march to Fort Pitt, except tho possible saving of a few days on the journey to Edmonton. V i •:i? 126 CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL, CllAP. IX. ;;,: h That course, however, involved several risks of loss and delay, and it was clearly worth while to sacrifice a little time by way of insurance. I was well pleased with our sport among the buffalo, which to my mind could scarcely have been imjn'oved. Had slaughter been tlie chief object, we might have slain Imndreds of bulls and lean cows — nothing could have been more easily done ; but such cruelty would have weighed heavy on my conscience, and, to give my men justice, they showed no inclination for mere wanton massacre. Not counting two or three biUls shot after a fine run and allowed every chance for their lives, or slain under some sudden excitement, I could safely say that no buffalo had been killed by myself or my men except for good, or at all events definite and sufficient, reasons. My own success I considered very satisfactory. I had picked out from an immense herd a bull with a head that everybody admired ; and, besides shooting several good cows, I had killed one — the fine barren cow that Morgan had out-raced so gallantly — which was acknowledged to surpass any animal shot by the hunters at either encampment. It was time to leave off. We had all had enough of it, and the lean and fagged condition of our horses told the same tale ; for buffalo-running under a July sun comes hard u])on grass- fed animals already wearied by a long and toilsome journey. That morning, accordingly, tents were struck in both the camps, and we all set out after breakfast, journeying nearly due north as we made our way together in the direction of Fort Carlton. From the time we passed the IJoasting Hills the country became unintoresting, — chiefly consisting of damp prairies, covered Mith long grass and varied with swamps and bush, or poplar islands scattered here and there « :Li: CUAP. IX. FORT CARLTON. 127 It on the verdant sea of plain. We soon came to a regular Leaten cart-track ; no game was anywhere to be seen, for the buffalo were all on the other side of the hills, so, for most of the time, I made myself comfortable in the waggon, travel- ling smoothly enough upon that level road, by no means sorry to rest myself after the last week's toil, and glad to spare my riding horses as much as possible. The absurd Bichon, delighted to find himself again in richer pasture, beguiled the time by feasting on flowers in his old peculiar way. Poor little Morgan ! I looked at him with a sorrowful heart. It grieved me that we were so soon to be parted. But he was far too thin and worn to go on to the mountains ; there M^as no choice but to leave him at Carl- ton to recruit for the homeward journey. On the 24th we camped at a wooded creek, a few miles beyond the Elbow of the North Saskatchewan. The river at tliis place has hardly half the breadth of water that the South Branch possesses where it makes its great Elbow ; the banks of the former are more wooded than those of the southern stream, but neither so wild nor so roughly and picturesquely broken into heights. In the neighbuii)hood of our camp rose a fine spring, but it was too strongly flavoured with iron ore to be useful for ordinary purposes. The next day we made an early start, travelling for some miles before breakfast, and by the afternoon we had arrived at Carlton, and encamped ourselves near the river a few hundred yards from the Fort. Mr. llardisty, the officer in charge, at once came to wel- come us, offering every assistance in the most kind and obliging manner, lie stayed a while at my tent, and we had tea together, after which he returned to the Fort, — where, by his hospitable invitation, I might have had a room, but as m H W4 JV. • 111 k ■1 ,. 1 . 5':" '■: i 'I If- ' 128 CHERRY BUSH, THE BAD HILL. CHAP. IX. f^ ;-^ 1*1 isi our stay was to he but a short one, I preferred remaining under my own canvas. As things turned out, it was a bad arrangement ; for, presently, a set of drunken Indians pushed into the camp, prying everywhere, and making themselves quite at home, and betAveen this intrusion and the savage attacks of the mosquitoes it was long before we could settle ourselves comfortably for the night. r !'J i - fij \ j ' I 4 I CHAPTER X. FOKT CARLTON TO FORT EDMONTON. July 26 S i, K il 134 FORT CARLTON TO CHAP. X. ' 1 hate the very sight of these poplar prairies, because they swarm with mosquitoes, which always abound in long grass. My joy is in a vast sandy plain, broken with bluffs, and carpeted with short, crisp, yellow-brown turf. There game abounds, and the abominable fly scarcely dares to show his proboscis. Well may the Evil One be called Baal-zebub — the god of flies ! ' 'Black, deprived of his friends Morgan and Vermont, has begim to scrape acquaintance with old Bichon, whom he never iised to deign to notice.' 'At dinner time, looking at my meerschaum with a magnifying glass, I found, as I suspected, that there was a small crack where the bowl joins the stem, so that the oil bubbles through and makes a black patch, while the rest of the pipe takes on hardly any colour. This is a nuisance, but there is some amusement in watching how tobacco affects a pipe, just as doctors studied the process of digestion through a hole that remained open in a v/ounded man's stomach.' . . ' Towards afternoon we came to a decidedly hilly country, with numerous small pools and lakes, and a good deal of poplar wood. Since crossing the North Branch, the wl 1e country may be described as trying to break out into a wood, and half succeeding. In the evening we travelled along the shores of Bear Lake, a very pretty piece of water of some size, with stony promontories, deep bays, and wooded islands ; then, continuing for a few miles farther, we reached a small artificial-loooking lake, near which we camped. ' A funny black sleigh dog, as fat as a pig, and possessed of only four inches of tail, has come with us, following the old man who guides us till we meet La Grace* (a hunter * fjo fira-cr, so the name is spelt in the Company's statement of accounts. It was, however, |iionriiincetl Le Graisse. CHAP, X. FORT EDMONTON. 135 then on his way from Edmonton, who soon after joined my party). " Wliisky " was rather timid at first, but I threw him some bits of meat, and we became very friendly, to the great disgust of Pointer, who is given to jealousy.' The foxes kept constantly barking round our tent-^. uttering strange sounds, a mixture of the noises of the dc' and the wolf. It was not a melodious note ; but never have I known the cry of any wild animal that had not something pleasing in its cadences, when heard in a solitary desert place, where the din of man's life is far away, where nothing reveals itself to the eye or ear but is touched with the adorable melancholy of loneliness. July 2%th. — Our march took us over very hilly ground to-day. Right upon the track we discovered the remains of a broken waggon, belonging probably to some of the Canadians or Americans who Jiad lately passed on their way to the gold diggings. I was just thinking how fortunate we had been in escaping such disasters, hen a loud crash burst upon my ears, and I beheld M'Beath bounding from his cart, just clearing it as it upset and rolled over and over in its progress to the bottom of a hill. The axle had broken, nothing else was wrong, and nothing got damaged. A little wooded lake happened to be close at hand, so we took the opportunity for our mid-day halt ; and while my men re- paired the axle, I waited on a sunshiny slope covered with a profusion of wild strawberries, and finished my first read- ing of " The Winter's Tale." "^'^ July 2^th. — We had great trouble in catching Lane, who had now wonderfully freshened up and become a very handsome old horse. He belonged to a breed that ranges wild on the other side of the Kocky Mountains. Though * See Appendix. liii |i : if 13G FORT CARLTON TO CHAr. X. ■M they hail taken him when quite young, no one could ride him till he had once been tired nearly to death by drawing a sledge loaded with two buffalo cowa as far as the Little Devil's Lake and back, with the heavy labour all the while of going first to make tlio track through the snow. He gave in as he reached his starting-point at Carlton, upon which they immediately got on his back and rode him when he was too weak for resistance. Though pretty well tamed by this discipline, he was subject to fits of wildneas, and would never bear that anything should touch his flanks. [Kline was the only person who could catch him in his difficidt moods. It was a study to watch this man's tactics — how he walked round and round the wary old animal, bent half double and making the most extraordinary movements, till at length Lane grew so puzzled that he forgot to run away, while the active Frenchman slipped nearer and nearer, then suddenly threw a line over the horse's head, and secured him in an instant.] Our road to-day ran pleasantly over crisp brown turf, and took us through an interesting country, hilly and picturesque, though rather bare of wood. As we passed by a place called " The Springs," Kline's cart stuck fast in a creek, and some of the things got a little wet, but the damage was not worth speaking of. We were preparing to halt for our niglit encampment, wlien M'Kay shot a skunk wliicli the dogs had chased out of some bushes near the cart- track, wliereupon there arose such an awful smell that we had to go on a good piece farther than we had intended.""* * In leffiri'iice to the odour eiuittcd by tlic skunk, I find tlie followinj; iuuusin^ passHj^e in Heaiii' : — "I cannot lielp observing tliat the fetid smell of the latter [the skunk] has not been nnich exaggerated by any author. When I was at Cumberland House in the fall of 1774, some Indians that were tenting on he plantation killed two of these animals, and made a feast of them ; when riiAP. X. FORT EDMONTON. 137 July 'dint. — While we wore dining on the .shore of a large and heautiful piece of water called Jack-fish Lake, one of the Thick-wood Crees came paddling over in a canoe from the opposite side : my men and he held a long talk together, and I meanwhile read " Hamlet." * Proceeding on onr way, the country still bore a pictur- esque appearance, all wood, hill, and lake, hut much of it had been terribly devastated by fire. The lakes were swarming with ducks and geeao, the former easily to be picked up in any quantity. A large white wolf showed himself within fair range ; I knocked him over with a shot through the haunches, but in spite of a shattered leg, he escaped me in the thickly wooded glen of a neighbouring creek, which same deep though insignificant rivulet presently cost us the trouble of raising all the baggage in the carts before we could attempt a crossing. Soon afterwards, arriving at the "VMiite Mud Lake, we made an early halt there, intending to remain during the approaching Sunday, and formed our camp on the top of an elevated clay bluff, whose precipitous broken face en- countered the wash of the water some twenty yards beneath our feet. The lake is triangular, and apparently about six miles in circumference ; its water is of good quality for use. the spot wliere they were singed and gutted was so impregnated with that nauseous smell which they emit, that after a whole winter had elapsed, and the snow had thawed away in the spring, the smell wa.s still intolerable. I am tolil, however, that the flesh is Ly no means tainted with the smell, if care be taken in gutting, and taking out the bag that contains this suiprising effluviii I do not think it is their urine which contains that pestilential eflluvia, for if that was the case ail the country where .hey frequent would be so tainted with it, that neither man nor beast could l.ve there with any degree of comfort."— Hearne, A Jouniey to the J^orthcrn ('cean, p. 377-8. * See Appendix. p: t!i '?■■'■■ i k ' I : h: - n V' .. »,. ■ , i III 138 FORT CARLTON TO riiAp. X. 11"' Sunihiij, Jiili/ 3l.s^. — La Oraco fU'tv ronght us to within a mile of the Saskatchewan, and continued nearly in that line. ' Eodc through an uninteresting country as far as Ked Deer Hill. I believe wo have made about forty miles to-day.' Aiif/Hst 2il. — ' lleached Fort I'itt at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. The Fort stands within a hundred paces of the river, whicli is here deep and rapid, free from sandbanks. CHAP. X. FORT EDMONTON. 189 V and about three huiulrod yards wide. These last two days I Imvo noticed a few spnico firs amidst the eternal poplar, but none of any size. In the whole British territory I have not yet seen one tree that woidd be called large in Scotland, not to speak of England. A tree thirty feet high and four feet round seems a giant here, and is rarely to bo met with. I can only attribute this dearth of good timber to the fires that are constantly devastating the land. In one glen near the Qu'appelle (where we found a raven's nest on the Gth of July) there were oaks of a larger size, but they were of no height, for the winds that sweep the prairie had cut them down to the level of the shelter afforded by the protecting banks. 'The Fort, enclosed by high palisades with bastioned corners, forms a square rather more than half the size of Carlton. Viewed from above it is like a camp of immense tents, owing to the shape and colour of the roofs. Mr. Macaulay and Mr. Sinclair received me with the greatest kindness and cordiality. I supped with them at the Fort, and we afterwards smoked together at my camp. ' There are a number of Indians here, six tents of Wood Crees, and also some half-breed " free " hunters [hunters, that is, who are not in the Company's employ] ; and as all of them keep a number of dogs, besides the large lot belonging to the Fort, it may be imagined what a nuisance it is. The whole evening and the whole night my men were pelting the beasts with sticks and stones; it was all we could do to save our meat and harness from their famished maws, though some of them must have been nearly killed by our missiles.' August 3(?. — ' Mr. Macaulay and Mr. Sinclair breakfasted with me, and we aftcuards rode to the horse-guard, about eight miles off. IM'Kay came with us on Black, — whom I •'■ I 'h ) I 1 ,•"! •^--m^aamtanttti' rrjr-* 140 FORT CARLTON TO CHAP. X. wished to exchauge if possible. Near the phice we met two boys some fourteen years of age, both of them riding. One was on a quiet old pony, biit the other rode a beautiful bay yearling, full of spirit, and so large and well made that it might easily have been thought two years older. This colt belonged to Mr. Eowland, an Orkney man of forty years' service with the Company, and celebrated for breeding fine horses ; its rider was his son, who was considered about the host light-weight rider in tlie district. ' The horse-guard was kept by an old French half-breed named Cliarlevoix, in whose tent we waited the arrival of Mr. Eowland, to whom a mess, t had been sent requesting him to meet us. A nice little girl came and seated herself on her fatliei-'s feet as he squatted cross-legged on the ground in the Indian fashion ; slie was evidently his particular pet. Outside there was a large drove of .niares and horses, perhaps a hundred and fifty ; among thom I observed a fine stallion. They were grazing in very rich plains, well watered but not wet, the best possible country for liorses. All around was hilly, wood growing more or less abundantly over both liill and dale. ' ]\rr. Eowland, a pleasant-looking old man, was not long in coming. He saw Bhuk gallop, and then rode him him- self. Both he and Mr. Sinclair wanted to get the horse, on account of his appearance and great speed, and various ex- changes were proposed on all sides. Finally I parted witli him to My. Sinclair for a well-known buftalo-runner, ten years old, a red roan with black points, called " Cendre," on account of his colour, and a very neat bichon ])ony, six years old, said to be a good runner also, -wliidi was bought on the sp(»t at a large prii-e from Charlevoix the horse-keeper. ' Considering further that I must soon leave my old Bichon, as he had got vei'v tliin, T tliought it would be better »l .('' i? CHAP. X. FORT EDMONTON. 141 both for myself and the poor beast to part with him now, so negc ated gave me a an exchange with Mr. Eowland, v fine strong three-year-okl " cendro " in his stead, receiving also a few pounds besides. Bichon is at a discount here. They say he is older than I was led to believe, and that though once a very good runner, he has much fallen off. I daresay this is true, for he did not seem to me at all fast, although very lasting.' Mr. Eowland at first wanted more on the exchange than I was inclined to offer, and we ended by dividing the difference. Hearing afterwards on good authority that he had got rather the worst of the bargain, I made out the order for the sum lie originally mentioned, being unwilling to gain a profit at his expense. I rode the young horse home, and liked him enough to assign that as a reason for valuing him at the larger sum. 'Mr. Eowland has a number of very good horses ; unfortimately he has a fancy for docking their tails, — spoiling their beauty, and giving the flies a cruel advantage. In this country they always work their horses at two years old, which seems a mistake.' We got the carts and everything across the river, and made a start in the afternoon. There "was a steep bank to ascend, much higher than that on the northern side ; having climbed it, however, we found a good hard road on the top, idong which we drove for four or five miles and then camped. I was riding Cendre (the Sinclair cendre, — the other one I called " Eowland "), a handsome well-bred horse with a beautiful head peculiarly fine in the muzzle, and with large, intelligent, gentle eyes. Mr. Sinclair took an affec- tionate leave of his favourite. " Poor Cendre," he said, " I siiaU never see you again." I promised to bring the good horse back if care would do it, but I spent my words in vain. f I i \ i 111 II "iiii li m 1 I- ■I pt IP. .'^ mi : '^' i it'- '' 1 Jllj *P|ii|' 142 FORT CARLTON TO CHAP. X. r.i i i ri » .t r ^ for Mr. Sinclair firmly believed that the Eocky Mountains would finish Ceudre, even if some of the others escaped, as he was older and more delicately bred than the rest of the band. Not far from the Fort we met a Cree riding alone, bearing with him a curious red-deer fawn-skin quiver filled with arrows. I asked Mr. Macaulay to buy it for me if possible, thinking the I idian would be willing to part with it, being so near his own tents ; but I afterwards heard that he did not succeed in getting it. Aiujust ijth. — This morning we worked at turning large horse-shoes into small ones for some of the ponies whose hoofs were much worn. M'Kay made an excellent job by heating the shoes in our camp fire, and bending and shorten- ing them oil the edge of an old axe. At dinner two men came express with letters from Fort Pitt, of little consequence as it happened. These messengers had travelled iifty or sixty miles since sunrise. We got quantities of ducks in a small lake, which was perfectly alive with them. I shot some, and Short shot some, and Pointer caught numbers of young ones as they swam about the edges and tried to liide in the overhanging bushes, amidst which he ferreted them out most perseveriugly. Later in the day, as M'Kay and I rode together behind the carts, we observed a large white female wolf stealing after us some little distance in the rear. Wishing to shoot her, M'Kay dismounted as soon as we got out of sight, and hid himself in a bush close by the road, waiting till she came up ; meanwhile I Avent quietly on so as not to excite her suspicions. Presinitly the wolf appealed again, still following right on our track. M'Kay let her almost touch the bush that concealed him, then gave her the whole of his first barrel ; fi (•I CHAP. X. FORT EDMONTON. 143 ■| she staggered, but instantly recovering herself, leapt at his throat, with a tremendous spring ; he was ready, however, and his second barrel hurled her backwards and rolled her into a lifeless heap. The gun was only loaded with small shot, intended for ducks, so that very close quarters were necessary in killing such an animal as a wolf, and this one was of the largest kind. August 6th. — The country, which had been hilly since we left Fort Pitt, now became more and more wooded, with swamps in the hollows that lay between the hiUs. The mosquitoes were absolutely swarming ; their bites, however, had ceased to swell up and fever me as formerly, so it was easier to bear with their horrible annoyance. The horses seemed to suffer more than we did. Little Bichon was quite lame in the near hind-foot from stepping into the smoke fire one night; Cendr6 also had slightly burnt one of his hind-feet in the same manner. The poor things used to crowd round the fire to avoid the tormenting flies, and in struggling to keep their position in the smoke, they pushed one another into the midst of the red-hot embers. We made a smoke fire for them every night by heaping turf over burn- ing logs, leaving openings in the mound for the escape of the smoke, which would then continue to issue in dense clouds for hours together. During the morning we pushed by the Black Mud Hill, so named from a place near a ;■ wamp where tlie Indians have dug holes to get a certain substance found there [using it, I believe, for painting piiirjses]. It was of the colour and look of tar, but with no perceptible smell. Soon afterwards the sky began to threaten, and my tent was scarcely pitched, W!«en the rain poured forth in torrents, drifting hard l)ef()re a strong north-westerly gale. i I 144 FORT CARLTON TO CHA1\ X. ■I While dinner went on a small dark-coloured bird came and perched itstlf on my table. It was so tame that it woidd not leave us, but kept hopping about among the men, and I had difficulty in saving its life from the thoughtless cruelty of one of them, whose Indian blood, I suppose, got the better of him. I was just in time to save our little visitor from having his neck wrung; strange to say, the man, a good-natured fellow at heart, seemed surprised I should care about such a trifle, though ready to oblige me by setting his prisoner free. August Sth. — 'The rain lasted all Saturday night, the storm driving the water through my tent canvas in a constant fine drizzle of spray ; by noon on Sunday it had partly cleared, but continued cloudy and showery. This morning it was very wet again ; after dinner, however, we determined to start, as it seemed a little clearei. but it rained so heavily when we set out that M'Kay and La Grace wanted to halt in about an hour's time. This I objected to, so we went on and made a march of about sixteen miles, camping at last on a pleasant dry prairie instead of lingering among the long, wet, mos- quito-stuffed grass in which we had spent our Sabbath — as my Scotsmen called it in true Presbyterian fashion. ' Tliere was rain more oi' lv?ss all the afternoon, but we were crossing an open plain, which looks less dismal than the woods under such circumstances.' We observed the track of a bear in a sandy place near some patches of bush, l)ut the aninud himself was not forth- coming. AiKjusl 9th. — 'A mild misty morning, which clianged into a cloudy showery day. ]\Iel an .Vmcrican, Mr. Hind, M'ith a Saskatcliewan man driving pack-horses, on his roati from E(hnonton to Carlton. He tells me that the neighbour- CHAP. X. FORT EDMONTON. U5 f \ hood of Jasper's House, a Fort iu the inouutains, is a good country for game. ' While we were halting after dinuer, the horses happened to move towards the camp, and foolish young Itowlaud must needs come jumping along with his fore-feet close together as if in liobbles, which, from late experiuuce, he fancied he had on him, though in fact perfectly free. Tlie men were as much a nused as I was, declaring they had never seen such a thing before. ' Sometimes a horse will give two or three leaps just after the hobbles are taken off, as if still feeling constrained, but that is not surprising. No one had been near Eowland since he was unsaddled, so there was nothing to remind him of his fetters. He is raw and awkward and lazily inclined, but I rather like him to ride. The Carlton Bichou is very smart. ' Halted iu an open near a SM'ampy lake. Mosquitoes very bad, worse I think this afternoon than I ever knew them while actually on tlie march. At dinner time 1 lighted a small fire iu my tent, and found it answer well in keeping them out.' August 10//i. — 'Had the little prairie-fowls for break- fast, the size of blai'kbirds and perfectly delicious. ' Our track still through a fiat country all wood and swamp ; one can seldom see more than a hundred yards on either side, seldom as much, indeed. Fine hot weather again. ' Camped for the night on a knoll a few hours from Ed- monton, from which there was a beautiful view over a circle of wooded plain, perfectly level excei)t where the steep north bank of the river was discernible. My tent was just pitched wlieu a heavy thunderstorm began, and lasted about an hour. After this it cleared, and there was a lovely eflect caused by I. !n .lii 14G FORT CARLTON TO FORT EDMONTON. ciiap. x. 11 the setting sun ; on one side all was orange and gold, beneath a black cloud which melted into misty gniy as it met the bright tints of the sunlight, and on the opposite side moved the dark departing thunder-cloud with a perfect rainbow enamelled on its face. 'Sat up late reading "Much Ado about Nothing." . . The wolves howled, the night was very cold.' , V :|ii... n -5 i- i ., A'. X. eatli the oved ik)W CHAPTER XI. v/ M I m i^ ill FORT EDMONTON. August lltk. — it was yet early in the day when we found ourselves looking down on the 1)road stream of the Saskatchewan river, from the sunnnit of a high steep hnuk directly opposite to Fort Edmonton. My men advanced and saluted the Fort with a general volley fi3m their guns and ritles, — a summons promptly answered by the despatch of a boat, which in a short while ferried us across to the northern shore. As we landed, Mr. Brazeau, the officer temporarily in charge, and the Kev. Mr. Woolsey, the Wesleyan missionary of the district, politely came forward to meet us und olfer their friendly welcomes on our arrival. The Fort, externally an oblong palisaded inclosure with flanking towers at the corners, at once struck me as being con- siderably larger than Fort Carlton, the buildings comprised within its limits being likewise more important both in size and character. Immediately in front of the principal gate- way, the gromid fell suddenly in a deep and almost precipi- tous descent to the ri^'er, which at this part seemed to carry a great body of water, with an apparent Avidth of about 250 yards. Upstream the view was exceedingly pretty, for the elevated banks which confined the channel were picturesquely broken, and richly covered with an abundant growth of wood. From each side of tiie enclosure there dvojiped a sudden slope to level plateaus near tlie river-side, the eastmost of ■■' |: I ■ ■Sc 1! 1 'i ! i ii 148 FORT EDMONTON. ciiAi'. xr. wliii'h was under eultiviition as an araltle faviu. Tlioy wero cutting wheat at the time. It seemed a poorish crop ; but I did not very closely examine it, and perhai)s there was better grain elsewliere. A windmill placed upon the higher gronnd at the back of the Fort betokened a certain amount of agricultural business in tlie district. AvijHst Vlth. — Tliis morning was occupied in consulta- tion with ]\I'Kay in regard to the things that were to be sent back to Carlton. Much had to be left behind, for our cart had now to be given u]) as utterly unsuitable for the lugged mountain-paths we were so soon to follow ; and tra\elling witli pack-horses, \\liicli was now to be our plan, obliges a very strict limitation of tlie weight and quantity of one's baggage. My journey, as roughly mai)])ed out, was to be thus arranged : In the first instance, I meant to proceed straight to Jas[»er's House Fort, and thence southwards along the mountains by tlie Iroipiois track as far as the Kootanie riain, or farther if time permitted; al'ter tliat, 1 intended to cross the plains to Fort Carlton, so as to arrive there no later than the 1st of October. Anxious as I was to set out before the Ix'st of the season sli[»j)ed by, I found myself oljliged to submit to a few days' delay : for ])ack-saddles 1 ad to be made; horses to be iMtught, hired, or exchanged ; pjovisions laid in ; a huntc!' ac«[uainted with the mountains engaged ; and a guide pro- cured who was known to the IMackfeet and able to in- terpret their language, fur we were going into the cduntry iidiabited by that tribe and fully expected to meet them. At tliis time Mr. Woolsey was a temjKtrary inmate of the Fort. We were \ery fre(piently t(»gethei", and had much conversation on dillcreut subjects, amongst which I was CHAr. XI. FORT EDMONTON. 149 particulavly interested in tliose relating to liis own missionary labonrs, and to the Indians under his spiritual care. It was from him that I first heard some details al)()ut the characters that had been invented by one of the Pro- testant missionaries for the Crees, which, though of rather recent introduction, had already got largely into use among them for writing as well as reading purposes. Owing to the nature of the language, which, it seems, chiefly consists of a few simple syllables repeated in varying combinations, syllabic signs had been found more suitable than a strictly alphabetical plan ; the new characters had therefore been arranged in <^roups of monosyllables, — every group containing the same set of vowels, but each having its own prefix which regulated the general form of the group- character, while that in turn was systematically varied accord- ing to its accompanying vowel. For example, (A, E, O, AH, being the standard set of vowels), T, F, J, L, represent Ma, Me, Mo, ]\Iah : q, p, d, b, represent Ka, Ko, Ko, Kah, — and so on. There are also a few terminals, such as n for S, I for r, — all the signs being of the simplest and plainest nature. To represent a word, the a]»[)ropriate characters for its different syllables are placed together in their order, each succeeded by a terminal if necessary ;— thus P = se, A = pe, in condjination HA = se-pe (river, as perhaps in Missi-t^ij^'i) ; or J=mo, n = s, D = to, n = s; in combination, JnDn, Mostos (Buflalo). Besides showing me several books printed on this system, Mr. Woolsey was good enough to write out for my use a tabular list of characters and terminations ; he also gave me a neat little Cree hymn-book as a specimen of the new typogropliy.''" * See Appendix. I '\ hi «'■'' , f, 1 # .' 150 KOIl'l' EDMONTOX. tiiAr. XI ' He iuronns me that he has baptized sev(M'al hunvhed IiidiaiiM, ill every case Ixilieviiig he had sulUcient grounds for (hting so. 'S|)(!akiii!4 of tlio Lirge contributions that are sent to the AVesh'yan Missionary Fund, lie tohl me a curious story about a subscription it liad lately received, which, in round nund)ers, came to the extraordinary amount of X18,()()0. The anecdote is as follows : — 'Mr. , ; poor man but ingenious, wi.shed to take out a patent for a certain invention, but the means were wanting. He prayed much and earnestly ou the subject, and at length one day a Quaker co.me to him and said, " Friend, 1 have an impression thou art in need (tf money." Afr — — rejdied that it was so, and explained the case; upon which ihe (J^uaker said, "Thou canst have as much as thou wantest." Tiie invention succeeded, and Mr. gave £1(10 to the Wesleyan Mission as a percentage on the i)roiits. Next year, giving in the same proportion, he increa,sed his subscription to £1 a day. Soon afterwards he Iiought an estate in Ireland, in which was a copper-mine s(:]i))Osed to be exhausted ; he found a fresh vein of ore, and nioney poured in. He then laid by for the mission £7 a ('Mv; and at length his gains became so great that, with clmiiks to God for increasing his fortune sevenfold, he began to de\fite £49 a day, which by the end of the year had accumulated into tlie magniticent donation referred to above.' ' On tlie subject of the Cree language, Mr. Woolsey told nw. that ulie.) .^peaking of certain tilings, such as horses, dogs, etc., one must n(»t put the pronoun "my" before the noun, but use an altogether ditfeient word ; for otherwi.se, according to tlie idiom, you would lie claiming identity with CIIAI*. XI. KOIIT EDMONTON. lf)l 'A liil luiD.liml the object you merely meant to claiin as your own. There was a certain missionary who wisht d to call some Indians to drive away one of his pigs, which was doing mis -hief. Being ignorant of the idiom, instead of expressing himself us he intended, he ran shouting about the place — " I am a lug, I am a pig," to the great delight of the natives.'"' ' Mr. Woolsey has a high opinion of the Blackfeet. They are very fond of Englishmen, and call them Na-pi-quan, which means " white man," as a term of honour. The Yankees they dislike. ' One cold day a I'lickfoot appeared with nothing on him but a single wretchea Oi ket. To account for his miseirdile condition, he explains ,, mo of his children having i ied, everybody, according; to the custom of the tribe, had rushed into his tent and taken possession of all he had, not even sparing his clothes. The truth of this being ascertained, the Indian was presented with various things to help him in his need.' 'Mr. Ih'azeau, who is an .American by birth, informs me that he lived for a great many years in the Missouri iiiid Yellowstone country. He confirms all Catlin's statements about t' e Mandaus, especially as to their customs of cruel si'lf-torLure ; he also atlirms the truth and accuracy of Catlin's Indian portraits, -which some shallow people have attempted to discredit. ' Were an angel to write his travels, the tiend woidd inspire some weak creature to pour doubts and sneers and small Jokes over the book. Every man who has not spent his life in a London garret has seen and done some things * 1 liiivi-' lii'unl siuiilar stories al'out missionaries in the South Sea Islumis. 'I'o the best ol'niy recollection Mr. Woolsey did not vouch for the truth of the anecdote, l)ut only for its possibility. Ill 'I n I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I £ IM US ■u iiii |22 I 1^ 12.0 1.8 f^ lliii Hi III^^^H^H^BM lllll^aai^MVHV IHII^BI^^S M 6" ► PhotDgraiiiic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. UStO (716) •72-4503 iV k ^ •s^ \\ ;\ '^ ^ \ iV '^ Vi Vi'% r -^ ,4 162 FORT EDMONTON. CHAP. XI. removed from commonplace experience, and therefore start- ling to many on first hearing of them ; but I hold ihat when a man of good reputation states a thing as a fact, it is as great a treason to honour to doubt him, as it would be to accuse him wantonly of forgery or theft. Indeed these town critics are apt to expose nothing but their own igno- rance in carping at books of foreign travel, — much as if a Blackfoot Indian were to argue with a cockney on questions of London life and manners. Hear them, for instance, on Gordon Gumming and his vast herds of antelopes — but satis!' Augmt 13 th. — A number of dogs made a disturbance about midnight by howling and fighting in the passages outside my room. One white wolfish brute began to peer in at the windows, wliich happened to look into a verandah, then several others came crowding up, and they seemed half inclined to break through. I prevented all risk of that trespass by whipping them down stairs and shutting the outer door, which some one had carelessly left open — an invitation not likely to be neglected by these greedy animals. No doubt they had supposed the house to be empty, none of the rooms but my own being occupied at night, the others, such as the large dining-room below, being only made use of in the day-time. ' There are more dogs here than at any place I know. They are mostly of the ordinary Indian kind, large and long-legged and wolfish, with sharp muzzles, pricked ears, and thick, straight, wiry hair. Wliite is one of the most usual colours, but brown, blue-grey, red, yellow, and white marked with spots of black or of the other various hues, are also common. Some of them are black with white paws, others are covered with long rough hair like Russian setters. There are others of a light bluish-grey, with dark. T.pl CHAP. XI. FORT EDMONTON. 153 almost black, spots spread over the whole body, a variety which is said to be frequent in the Blackfoot camps. Almost all of them have black noses, but with some of the lighter-coloured ones this part is red, brown, or pink, which has a very ugly effect.' Most of them are very wolfish in appearance, many being half or partly, or aU but entirely, wolves in blood. One dark grey dog, indeed, was said to be almost a pure wolf, and bore the appropriate name of Mihekan, the term for that beast in Cree.^^ Seeing him on the plains it would be impossible to distinguish him from a common wolf of the middle-sized variety, and his temper was spoken of as a match for his looks. To do him justice, he behaved in a very friendly way when his handsome appearance led me to notice him, coming obediently at my call and allowing me to pat liim on the head. Had I been aware of his character I should probably have let him alone. Dr. Hector, to whom this dog belonged, afterwards told me that before harnessing or unharnessing they were obliged to stun it with a blow on the nose, on account of its savage nature. Some of the others, however, were nearly as bad, and needed a taste of the same rough discipline. Many of the male dogs of this wolfish sort had been emas- cidated, to tame their fierceness and spirit without spoiling them for work. Mihekan had been so treated, and poor good-natured Whisky was another example, though in his case it must certainly have been an act of supererogation. In winter these dogs draw sleighs and do nearly all the work of the country ; at other seasons they do nothing for man, but pass their time in war, love, robbery, and music. * " Mahaygan — Cree Indians." Kichardson, Faun. Bor. Am., vol. i. 66. My spelling represents the pronunciation of the word as I heard it. '!»«' d: 1 |v fl. 111 ;-' ,i»i t,-i % [r,."i 154 FORT EDMONTON. CHAP. XI. CI 7 ;■»;•■ Neglected as these noisy, dirty animals are in their months of idleness, unfed, kept in bare life by plunder, the mark for every passer's stick or stone, they are highly valued by their owners, and a team of fine, good, well-trained dogs will bring a handsome price, especially when the winter snows begin to come on. ' Eead Lewis and Clarke's travels, finished Harmon's Journal, also read most of Father De Smet's missionary travels. The latter gives an interesting account of the conversion of many of the Kootanie and Flat-head Indians. From the exaggerated, forcible-feeble style of the writer I felt inclined to doubt if his success had equalled his belief in it ; but Mr. Brazeau assured me that these Indians were now really good Christians, truthful, brave, and moral, and so honest that if they find even the smallest thing, such as a pocket knife or a piece of tobacco, they will bring it to the camp of the probable loser and cry it up and down till he is discovered. 'Mr. Brazeau considers that, to the west of the mountains, the Eoman Catholics have wrought a great work of reforma- tion among the natives — God speed them, say I with all my heart. In this district, however, he considers that Protestant and Roman Catholic teachers alike have little influence for good. The Indians listen to them, pretend to believe and obey, and obtain baptism, but as soon as the missionary takes his leave they relapse into their former practices. All with whom I have conversed agree in thinking that little or nothing can be done to improve the adults of the Cree, Ojibw Vssiuiboine, or Blackfoot tribes, and believe that the on.^ aope lies in teaching and influencing the young, Ijefore evil and reckless habits become a part of their nature. I i. CHAP. XI. FORT EDMONTON. 165 ' It seems to me (and to my informants also) that the clergy of every sect make a great mistake in obliging con- verted Indians who have several wives to put away all but one. A Blackfoot chief lately spoke good sense on this subject. " Tell the priest," he said to Mr. Brazeau^ " that if he wishes to do anything with my people he must no longer order them to put away their wives. I have eight, all of whom I love, and who all have children by me — which am I to keep and which put away ? Tell those who have only one wife not to take more, but do not talk about putting away wives already married." 'This chief, however, injured the moral force of his remarks by going on to say that his eight wives could dress a hundred and fifty skins in the year, whereas a single wife could only dress ten, supposing she were always well, and that such a loss of property was not to be thought of. He also told the priest not to object to rum-drinking, as the love of it formed part of the very nature of his people. These evils, he said, time might cure, but they must not be too vehemently opposed at present. 'However plainly self-interest betrays itself in tliis speech, however impossible it would be to lower Christ- ianity by sanctioning drunkenness, some of the Indian's words appear to me not unworthy of attention. Let the injury done to the affections of husband and wives, and the cruelty of depriving so many women and children of their protectors, be weighed against the considerations that prevent polygamy among civilised people, and surely, in the absence of a direct divine conmiand, the former will bear down the scale. There is no absolute conmiandmeut against polygamy, though its inexpediency might be inferred from Christ's reference to the original order of creation ; but S 'f '/i i'.S III i 150 FOET EDMONTON. CHAP. XT. CI while things inexpedient may become things unlawful to the enlightened man, the case of the unenlightened is widely different ; and the mere telling of truths to a savage no more amounts to the making him an enlightened man, than shooting a turnip from a cannon through the body of an ox would amount to feeding him for a year, and letting him gain fatness by processes neither you nor he could entirely explain. ' We must remember that polygamy was allowed to the Jews, and in certain cases even commanded ; and it upsets all ideas of right and wrong to assert that the Almighty would in any case command what is evil in its very essence; — to love God would be impossible for an upright mind were such a procedure fully apprehended as conceivable. In his Epistle to Timothy, St. Paul decrees that a bishop must be the " husband of one wife," thus plainly declaring that persons differently circumstanced were to be found within the Christian pale ; if this be admitted, we obtain a guiding star to follow if we choose. ' Dr. Livingstone, in dealing with the African savages, allowed them full liberty with regard to their supernumerary wives, merely recommending separation if practicable, and forbidding polygamy in future. The result was that his sincerer converts in course of time endeavoured to follow his advice, from anxiety to reach to the utmost heights of Chris- tian excellence, instead of, like too many American Indians, humouring the missionary and obtaining baptism by feigned compliances offered from interested motives and evaded at the first opportunity. ' I was amused in Father De Smet's letters to read the following remarks on the fastings of the Indian warriors: — " Before setting out for war they observe a strict fast. . . . fc e o: tl CHAP. XI. FORT EDMONTON. 167 for four days. During this interval their imagination is excited to madness, and either from the effect of weakness or the warlike projects which fill their minds, they pretend that they have extraordinary visions." For "warlike pro- jects" substitute "religious fervours," and strike out "pretend" as uncharitable, and the Eeverend Father has philosophically accounted for various miracles believed in by the more ignorant of his own church 1 ' [So far good, but — to my former self I say it — There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.] This afternoon a man brought for my inspection a fine- looking red-dim horse, which he wished to exchange for Cendrd. It was branded on the shoulder with an open hand, and on the quarter with a figure very like a gallows though really meant to represent a man, — marks signifying that some former Indian owner had killed an enemy off this horse's back. Its age seemed about the same as Cendr^'s, but it was in better travelling condition. The man declared that he wanted my horse, because having bred it he felt an affection for the animal, and regretted that it should go to certain death on a journey so much beyond its powers. Believing this to be partly a hond fide reason, I consented to try the red horse on the following Monday, with some idea of agreeing to the bargain if I found him suit. Wawpooss being evidently unfit for farther travels, I gave him in exchange for a very pretty young cream-coloured pony. My men had plenty of work in shoeing the horses. Old Wawbee in particular showed great vice, and had to be cast and fastened before anything could be done with him. Sunday, August lUh. — 'After breakfast we had service in the large dining-room, at which a number of the men \ b i I „■ <; m ml ; s« 1- ,• I" -1 If >. ^^ m\ i yl lai: & i^H ; 1S8 FORT EDMONTON. OHAP. X[. and one or two women were present. Mr. Woolsey read the liturgy without the litany^ and afterwards preached a sermon. ' We had another service in the evening. A converted Indian officiated as clerk and led the singing, and but for some trifling mispronunciations one could hardly have known him from an Englishman acting in the same capacities. While we sat in solemn silence just before prayers began, a little boy ran down the passage outside, and suddenly struck up an Indian war-song — " Hi, hi, — ah, he, — ah" — or some such sounds, in the shrillest of tones, half yelp, half howl, with an inconceivably ridicidous effect. There was a momentary struggle, then one universal roar of laughter. ' In all Indian music that I have heard there is a re- markable likeness to the howling of wolves, mingled with the droning growl of a bear. The Blackfeet, however, are said not only to excel aU other tribes in music, but to have really fine voices.' August 15th. — After arranging an exchange of Nez- blanc and Gris for two sound usefid animals, I rode with Mr. Brazeau to the haymakers' tents, taking the opportunity of trying the red-dun horse that had Blackfoot hieroglyphics on his skin. He carried me pleasantly and well, but I observed a suspicious lump on one of his forelegs near the fetlock, which decided me to keep my own good horse, though he was in such poor condition. It woidd have been a mistake to do otherwise, for, besides his inferiority to my Cendrd, the dun, as I afterwards discovered, had a trick of turning lame after a few days of steady hard work. Again I had cause to admire the fine riding of the boys. Little fellows ten or twelve years old would jump on the xr. / OHAP. XI. FORT EDMONTON. t lfi9 back of any horse they could lay hands on, and gallop him about the place, with no saddle at all, and with no better bridle than a cord round his lower jaw. They were perfectly fearless, and sat their horses with a firmness, spirit, and grace very beautifid to see, guiding them at their will by movements scarcely discernible. I now succeeded in engaging a guide for the mountains, an oldish I rench half-breed, named Antoine Blandoine, an experienced hunter, and well acquainted with most of the country we intended to visit. He was to have the same pay as some of my other men, viz. JE5 a month, — his pay to continue till his return to Edmonton. As I was smoking at the gate of the Fort, Lapataque — the principal Cree chief, though for many years he had hunted for the Company — -happened to be standing near me. Wishing to 'ight my pipe, I brought out some ordinary fusees, which seemed to be so much of a novelty to Lapa- taque that I gave him two or three from my box as speci- mens. I was afterwards surprised to hear that he had been highly pleased with this trivial present, going to one of his friends expressly to show him the matches, and tell that they had been given him by the "chief" himself. 'This shows how far very small kindnesses will go with an Indian of the right sort.' 'Mr. Brazeau was umoking in my roo t^ after supper, and gave me a great deal of interesting info: mation. He again vouched for the truth of Catlin's book, and further mentioned to me that he had signed one of the letters, in the first volume of that work, which testify to its perfect accuracy.* ' He told me that at the American forts the British flag • Catlin, A^orth American Indians, vol. i. pp. 11-13. 160 FORT EDMONTON. CHAP. Xf. m.i m m m is treated with the grealest respect, aud in proof men- tioned that a young man at one of these forts having taken a Union Jack from the hands of an Indian who had come to trade, and kicked it about, the superintendent lec- tured him publicly, and made him pay the Indian a very heavy fine. On other occasions Indians have received pre- sents at the American forts for the special reason tliat they were wearing British medals. At our own forts the Ameri- can flags, which the Blackfeet often bring with them, are treated with corresponding respect, and are spoken of to the Indians as " good " flags.' In answer to some remark of mine about Pe-toh-pee- kiss (The Eagle-ribs), a Blackfoot, whose portrait is in Catlin's work, Mr. Brazeau assured me that that Indian was a great warrior indeed, and a very noble fellow. No less than eleven white men, chiefly free trappers, had met their death at his hands. In most cases, however, they had brought this fate upon themselves, for Pe-toh-pee-kiss had slain them in self-defence against treacherous attacks made on him during his different attempts to arrange a truce. On one occasion he had charge of letters for a Mr. Vanderbirt, but that gentleman being at the head of a large party it was not safe to approach him rashly, so Eagle-ribs and his people halted in concealment a little way off, to paint themselves and prepare for a formal advance. Meanwhile, however, Mr. Vanderbirt and three of his men went forward to reconnoitre, the discovery of a newly killed buffalo having raised the suspicions of the party, though their leader himself would not believe that any Indians were near. These reconnoitrers unluckily rode straight into the middle of the concealed Blackfeet, who quietly formed a i^tH ':„«»*-'. CIIAI'. XI. I'ORT EDMONTON. 101 circle round them, then siuUlenly sprang up and attempted to seize them, — with no bad intention, but merely to secure hostages for their own safety when approaching the white men's camp. Mr. Vanderbirt, however, at once fired at the nearest Indian, killing him on the spot, and then rode for his life, but ere he had well started his horse was shot, and in falling pinned his leg to the ground. He rose on one knee, drew a pistol, and drove the muzzle into the face of an Indian who was rushing upon him, I)ulling the trigger at the same time ; but he had not observed tliat the cock was bolted, there was no discharge, and he only succeeded in gashing his opponent's cheek by the force of his blow. The other Indians immediately took their knives and cut Mr. Vanderbirt in pieces. Pe-toh-pee-kiss soon afterwards came to Mr. Brazeau and explained the occurrence. He brought with him the unfortunate man's pistols — which were subsequently sent to his relations, — the riHe he could not bring, for it had been buried beside the warrior it had slain. 'A short while after this event, l*e-toh-pee-kis3 went towards an American party and attempted to treat for peace. A few Americans rode to meet him, headed by a man named Bridger. This villain, desiring revenge on the Blackfoot, treacherously concealed his riile between his leg and the saddle, and, when stooping down to shake hands with Eagle- ribs, he secretly pushed the weapon forward and fired. Happily the Indian saw the trick in time to save himself, though the bullet cut away the powder-horn that hung on his chest. Upon this the Blackfeet fired at Bridger slightly Avounding him, and as he galloped off lodged several arrows in the lower part of his back. Seeing his condition, a man who was on baddish terms with him, Black Harris by M • * i aii^;. ml 1G2 FOllT EDMONTON. CHAP. XI. In, ', '^ ■; 'i'l T^^ name, mock injrly iniisd out — " ITulloa I Briilper, what's tho miittor now?" "Only Homo featlicrs in my ," answered liriil^'or, who was a coarse feUow. His conduct was much blamed by his companions. ' One of the jtarty was a Spaniard, who was married to a Blackfoot woman. She had just then ridden over to tho Indians to see her brothers, and to interpret between the two sides. As soon as the firing began tho Indians seized her, but her horse escaped and came back to the Americans, with her little baby hanging to the saddle in its upright cradle of boards. If i)artcd from its mother tho child was sure to die ; so the poor father declared he would risk his own life for its sake, and he rode boldly with it to the lUackfeet. They received him kindly, and gave the baby to its 'mother, but refused to let her go back. They invited her husband, instead, to join their tribe. He eouhl not do so then, he told them, for he was under other engagemQuts, but without fail he wouhl come to them in a few months : they let him go, and he faithfully kept his word.' Te-toh-pee-kiss (Petoch-peki'ss, as Mr. Brazeau pro- nounces it) is a Blood Indian. There are three tribes of the great Blackfoot nation, — viz. the Black feet, the Blood Indians, and the Biegans, all of whom speak the same language and live in close alliance. [The Fall Indians, also, are of the same race.] It is easy, I am told, to distinguish them apart by differences of dialect and pronunciation, like those in the various districts of England ox, Scotland ; besides, the Blood Indians dress more neatly and are finer and bolder looking men than the Blackfeet, who in turn surpass the Piegans in these respects. ' The Blood Indians have among them a number of com- paratively fair men, with grey eyes, and hair both finer and H, '. > CHAP. XI, FORT EDMONTON. 163 it lighter coloured than usual in the case of pure Tndimis. Pe-toh-po-ki.s.s i.s a man of this coiuplcxion. This tribe is supposed to bear its savage name, not from any peculiar cruelty of disposition, but because, unlike the tither tribes, its warriors do not steal horses, but only siiek for the blood of their enemies, whom they generally overcome, for they are among the bravest of all the natives. * The lilackfeet are a livelier race than the Crees. The latter are quarrelsome when in liquor, while the former show their jollity by dancing, singing, and laugliing, and kissing and hugging one another with all sorts of absurd antics. Though so fond of rum the Blackfeet are not hal)itual drunk- ards. They get completely drunk once or twice a year, but at other times take nothing stronger than the cotl'ee which the American Government sends them as part of an annual subsidy — for a great part of their territory lies south of the British frontier* They consider — and not without some reason — that their periodical excesses are good for them, curing the biliousness caused by their mode of living. ' In the British territory most of the white men who have got Indian wives are married to Crees, but some have allied themselves with the Blackfeet, and it is said that the women of that tribe never desert their husbands as the others some- times do. On tlie American side there are comparatively few half-breeds, and few or none of them are past middle age ; while across the border, in the Company's domains, there are grandfathers of mixed blood whose own grandfathers were half-breeds. ' Mr. Brazeau tells me that the only Indians whose women are chaste are the Sioux, who at least equal Europeans in this respect. The Mandans and Crows, on the other hand, are particularly bad in their morals. The Sioux, of all ' ■ i I t I 'I i '', ■■ 'j n 164 FORT EDMONTON. CIIAl'. XI. Indians, are those wlio moat keep to their old mode of dress ; the Blackfeet and the rest are all rapidly adopting blankets and capots, and giving np the beantifnlly painted robes of their forefathers. The few painted robes that are now made are inferior in workmanship to those of days gone by,* August lQ)th. — The rain had at last disappeared and bright snnshiue come in its place ; the weather looked invit- ing for a journey. Mr. Woolsey left the Fort that morning, and set out on one of his missionary expeditions, and by the following day I earnestly hoped to get away also. Nothing Avas wanting for my departure bnt the arrival of Piskau Muuroe, a Scotch half-breed, whom it was important to engage as interpreter, for he not only knew the Blackfoot language, but was on intimate terms with the tribe, being closely connected with it by blood. He was now daily expected. I added another horse to my lot by exchanging the Colt's carbine for a iiseful sort of animal, receiving a trade- gun as make-weight besides : I did not think it a very good bargain, but horses were a necessity, and I was glad to obtain them on any fairly reasonable terms. Whilst staying at the Fort I bought from a half-breed a knife of what is called tlie "dag" pattern, a heavy. Hat, double-edged blade al)out eight inches long, of triangular shape, tapering to a point from a width of some two and a half inches at tlie base. The Edmonton hunters always carry very strong and large knives, for the purpose of cut- ting through branches when traversing the dense fir woods that cover a great part of the country ; some of them use extremely lieavy ones, half knife half axe, — like a narrow sort of butclier's cleaver with a point instead of a sfpiared-off end, or i)erha])s more resembling the peculiar oriental sword sn (iflen represented in old pictures and niAP. XI. FORT EDMONTON. 165 engravings. Indeed, I have been told that these demi-bills were originally copied from a weapon borne by one of the hill tribes in India My " dag " is mounted with a curious bone hilt made for it by its former owner, and fits into a moose leather sheath embroidered handsomely with bead-work in a simple but very rich and effective pattern. !| i w.. ' 1 •I '^^'i' i;i)M()NT()N lirNTEli S l)A(; ■ il CHAPTER XII. FORT EDMONTON TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 11 A. UGUST 17th. — It was late in the afternoon before Ave got away from Edmonton, and we had only accomplished five miles when our camping time arrived. We halted by the side of a snuill lake. The night Avas beautifully clear and starry, with an aurora glancing in the skies ; I was glad to be once more under canvas, amidst the odours and sights and sounds of free nature. The grass was glittering Avith dew ; it grew rank and high, but luxuriant as it Avas, there were no mosquitoes harbouring in it. Some touch of frost had doubtless annihilated them, for the extreme sharpness of the air as night Avore on, shoAved only too plainly that sum- mer was gone by, and that even the sunniest days Avould now be folloAved by hard and bitter nights. August ISth. — There Avas pleasant traA'elling to-day, through a pretty country, — wooded for the most part, except Avhere a great fire had done its Avork of destruction, leaving only the timber that Avas gi'OAving in the deeper holloAvs. Firs now appeared plentifully in the forest, and the trees Avere altogether larger than any Ave had lately met Avith. ToAvards afternoon Ave entered a very hilly district, studded Avith nume- rous small lakes, and covered Avith tlie richest grass ; we rode on till dusk, and finally camped at a place about ten miles distant from tlie mission settlement of Lake St. Ann. August 19 fh. — When not far from St. Ann Ave Avere met by Mr. Moberly, of the Company's service, Avho Avas making 'It CHAP. XII. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 167 liis retur" iVorn Jasper's House, where he had till lately been officer ii ■ 'large. He obligingly halted with ns for an hour or two, while I wrote some letters to go with his party. His account of the post he had so recently quitted was very far from encouraging : — no game in the neighbourhood ; the people starving, and making haste to leave the desolated place. He advised me not to waste time by going to Jasper's House, but to track up the M'Leod river, which would bring me sooner to the mountains, and save me a perfectly useless round. The highest peaks, he informed me, rose near the point at which I should in that case enter ; and southwards from thence to the head of the South Saskatchewan, there extended about a ten days' march of country, which, as he believed, no European had ever seen (one half-breed hunter, perhaps, had long ago been there, but it was very doubtful), where bears and wild sheep were certain to be abundant. Should we meet a hunter named Paulette, as would probably happen, he strongly advised me to engage him. If I made this journey, however, it would be impossible to get back to Carlton before the end of October — Be it so ! said I. On our arrival at St. Ann, we proceeded to the mission- house, where we met with a most cordial reception. — ' Had the pleasure of dining with Peres Lacome and Le Frain at the Eoman Catholic mission-house — agreeable men and perfect gentlemen. What an advantage Eome has in this respect — Protestants constantly send vulgar, underbred folk to supply their missions, Rome sends polished, highly-educated gentlemen. Then how much the best is her mode of addres- sing the Indian mind ; — for example, every Indian who joins the Mission Temperance Society is given a handsome model to wear.' [This appeals to their pride or vanity, and is far more effectual than mere dry exhortations.] I „.-,..„ I 1G8 FORT EDMONTON TO OIIAV. XII. On the pressing invitation of my kind hosts I remained for the night at the mission-house. — 'Everything there is wonderfully neat and flourishing, it is a true oasis in the desert. The cows fat and fine, the horses the same, the dogs, the very cats, the same. A well-arranged and well-kept garden, gay with many flowers — [some of them the commonest flowers of the woods and j)lains, brought to perfection by care and labour]. The house beaTitifully clean ; the meals served up as in a gentleman's dining-room. Excellent preserves of service-berries and wild raspberries ; — everything made use of and turned to account.' Surrounded by such comfort and refinement, and in the society of such agreeable entertainers, I passed a most plea- sant evening, one that often recalled itself to my memory amidst the experiences of later times. The rooms were decorated with religious prints, and there Avas likewise a good library of books of a similar character. In my own bedroom were several of the latter, which I looked through with interest, among them, however, was one which it surprised me to find in such honourable company — a cheap Dublin publication called Tlic Life of the Vir. 34H. ';iiAi'. xir. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 173 I" I though very cold, and after dawn the sun came out brilliantly. Two more of the horses chose to wander, but they were recovered without much trouble, and then we began a very hard and toilsome march, plunging through bogs — which, in Cree fashion, we commonly called " Muskegs " — and forcing a passage through brush and thickets of young pine. Our track fortunately kept pretty level, though the country was inclined to hilliness. In course of the day we crossed the forks of a tributary of the M'Leod, — two streams known as Les Deux Rivieres, clear mountain rivulets running swiftly over thin beds of gravel, — and about 5 p.m. we came to another stream, named Thick Brush Creek, where we found a Jasper's House Iroquois camping with his family, consisting of his wife, two children, and a servant girl. As it was then too late to go on to the M'Leod river, the road being bad and destitute of camping-ground, we deter- mined to halt where we were ; accordingly we pitched our tents not far from the place chosen by our new friends. This had been a most fatiguing day. In many parts the track was barely wide enough for a loaded animal to pass between the trees, and it was generally so soft and deep, from the effects of former traffic on such wet and sponge-like soil, that the horses were for ever trying to escape from the treacherous boggy ditch in which they found themselves. Leaping to one or other side of the trench, they endeavoured to make their way along the firmer margin ; but there was seldom much room there, so after a struggle that displaced or scattered their packs, down they inevitably plunged, and continued their floundering in the mire. In riding it was the same thing ; no power or skill could keep one's horse in the narrow, slimy track. So at least I found it, and by the end of the day my knees were one mass of bruises, ■ I hm: '1 s • ; ■ ^ ^ 174 FORT EDMONTON TO ("11 AT. XI r. i R in.;: from cannoning off the fir stems, when Itowland made sudden dashes for the bank, or attempted to rush into some opening where the trees grew wide enough apart to allow a passage for himself, though none for his rider's limbs. ^ly arms were worn out from carrying the rifle, without support, during such long-continued exertions. — 'Quite ex- hausted .... tired, and disgusted at the small progress we are making Thank God, however, I am in good health ; and cannot remember having yet yielded to fatigue, or allowed anything but reason or sport to prevent me from pressing forward. If ever I get home I shall know how to appreciate comfort. Still, health is better than comfort.' That evening I read with particular pleasure some articles in the U'orth British Review, of which I had lately got a few numbers at one of the forts. [I believe intellectual reading, in moderation, to be a rest for the body after hard labour : it seems to act as a counter-irritant, drawing off fatigue from the muscles to the brain.] While passing through a sandy place, where the fir-tree roots ran near to the surface of the ground, ^latheson's horse happened to disturb a wasp's nest ; — then such a scene began ! Frantic with terror, the horses rushed hither and thither ; Wawbee, maddest of all, galloped wildly up and down, lashing out at the enraged insects. Poor Matheson, in desperation, sprung from his uneasy saddle, but, lighting on a sharp-pointed stump, slipped, and rolled under his horse's feet, — the animal instantly set-to to kick at its fallen rider, fortunately never striking his head, though missing so narrowly as to graze one of his cheeks. AVe were laughing too much to help him ; but he mow escaped, and we all got off without visible damage, though several of the horses must have been badly stung. CHAP. XII. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 175 SKUNK ROASTING. Cardinal, wliilo out shooting alone, killcil a skunk, and brought it into camp that evening. I aftorwurds saw it roasting whole over the Iroquois' fire, looking awfully hideous, rob- bed of its skin and ears, and shorn of the bushy tail which in life had added something to its beauty. August 2oth. — As a matter of curiosity I had a hind-leg of the skunk for breakfast.* It tasted like sucking-pig ; very white, soft, and fat, but there was a susjiicion of shu7ikiness about it that prevented me from finishing the plateful.-|* ' On resuming our march the road was bad for a while, then came a great stretch of really fine old forest, consisting of spruce firs and a few immense poplars. The largest trees were not above eight or ten feet round, I should think, but all were from 150 to 200 feet high, or more. ' Shot three " partridges," with my rifle, at thirty, ten, and fifteen yards, hitting all of them in the neck, as I intended. We crossed the M'Leod river, after which I bathed and dined. It is a stream from 100 to 150 yards wide hereabouts ; for the most part shallow and rapid, with a gravelly bed but muddy banks, the mud of a lightish brown, as in all these * See extract from Hearne, p. 136, ante. + Let me here, once for all, deprecate censure from fastidious readers, in regard to the minuteness of my gastronomic details. No question is more frequently asked of the traveller, than— What is such and such a beast, bird, or fish fit for as an article of food ? Being able, through my careful note- keeping, to meet, in some degree, the general wish fortius sort of information, ought I — considerate critic ! — to deprive the many of a boon, out of deference to the probable or possible objections of the few ? f >iMt ;;i i il Ifli 170 FOHT EDMONTON TO < ||AI>. XII. * , Itll' H .«! n M -■it - f ^ t' ^': I livers. Tho baiik.s, wootled to tlin wiitca's edge, aiu iiithor low, tliougli in sonu! ])livc('s rising to a greater elevation. 'The Iroquois and his family are travelling with us. His M'ife is a good-looking, clear-skinned, black-hiiired, French half-breed, too Hat in \wv proportions like all her race. Her dress is of dark blue cloth. She and tlio girl ride astride, of course, but quite modestly, wrapi)ing up their legs in tho shawls in which they carry the little children. ' The wife rides a very pretty grey-and-whito pied mare, with two bells round its neck, which make a jtleasant rural sound ; these are not mere ornaments, but are meant to scare away wolves, and very generally do so. INFares are seldom or never ridden in this country, except by women. There are more geldings than stallions, though the latter are far from uncommon.' After dinner we crossed the Wolf River, a moderate-sized, rapid stream running into the M'Leod ; and subsequently tho road, which led us u[) the course of the latter stream, ran mostly through a wood of Kouvi age, and was here and there intersected by very steeply-banked gidlies. A thunderstorm came on, and gave us a wetting before we reached our camping-ground at a place called IJiazeau's Cache ; the storm then settled into steady rain, which continued for most of the night. Our party at supper was increased by two of the Jasper's House men, "whom we met on their way to the settlements, they turned back, however, and camped with us. One of them wore a wooden spur of the most primitive constiuction, — merely a piece of fir pointed at one end, and hollowed at wooDKN siuR. ^}jQ other to receive the heel, to which it was tied by two thin strips of leather. I got some " sheep " pemmican CHAP. Xtt. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 177 s h from those hunters, an 1 tli()u«,'ht it very good, — rather sweeter, and [)erhap.s a littlo richer, thuii the coininon buflido pem- luicaTi ; it was entirely made iioiii the dried llesii of tlio wild mountain sheep. The Iroquois fauiily still accompanied us. — 'It sounds curious at night to hear a baity crying, so far away in the heart of the wilderness.' August 2(jt/i. — Made a late start, — to give the bushes time to dry after the heavy rain, wet being most damaging to saddle-bags and all other leathern articles. 'Very feverish all this morning, but two ciips of tea at dinner did me a great deal of good. Tea is a wonderful restorative — when taken as by us, without milk, and with no spirituous liquors in our systems. ' Our march all day was up the M'Leod River. For nearly the whole distance the banks were very high, and covered with tolerably large pines ; here and there w* .e pre- cipitous faces of rock and clay. Towards evening we ciossed a rapid sti-eam flowing into the larger river, which makes a sudden bend at that place. As we moved round the curve along the water-edge, the setting sun poured floods of light on the russet brown masses of scorched pines, on the one side, while, on the other, the darkly-green young spruces looked black in shadow. * Just before, I had been struck with admiration at the sombre loveliness caused by the streaming of the sun's rays through a great stretch of burnt pin3 forest. All the tall trees were standing up like jet black masts, and the glorious light gleamed like silver on the quivering surface of the river, gilded the sable stems wherever it touched them, and played in dancing spots over the long gi-ass, and on the low under- growth of poplars — destined in course of years to fill the N # r' , 1 > t /■)■ 178 FORT EDMONTON TO CHAP. XH. ;.! f ■ i . ': place of the for-ever blighted wood. I wish some painter had been there, to paint what I so vainly attempt to describe. Never have I seen such an effect represented in art — withered and dead trees often, but not these scorched, and charred, and blackened stems.' Soon after leaving this beautiful scene, we camped on an opening a few acres in size — here regarded as an exten- sive plain. The mountains ought now to have been in view, but there was a mist over them, and they were entirely hidden. August 2^th. — A long hard march this morning, one of the most toilsome we had yet had. It rained more or less the whole time, and the wind was cold ; the road ran mostly through deep wet bogs, full of small fir-trees. My knees and legs were severely bruised by awkward Rowland's dashes among the trees ; in one place he got mired, and I had to jump off and wade through depths of moss. The road was perpetually crossing ravines, up and down the steepest hills, — I wondered the horses could climb them. One solitary gleam of consolation enlivened this weary day — an unexpected, far-distant view of two grand peaks of the Eocky Mountains, over which a thunder-cloud cast a solemn, leaden shade. It was but an imperfect view, but so marvellous was the contrast between the damp, confined darkness of our track through the dripping fir-trees, and the sudden freedom of an open sky bounded only by magnifi- cent mountain-forms, that for a moment I was quite over- whelmed. Then one of those strange tides of emotion that transcend both control and analysis, rushed through me from head to foot, — I trembled all over, — my limbs lost their strength, I could liardly sit on my liorse. He, poor beast, did not share in his rider's excitement — as in a momentary fancy I thought he would, — and seemed no happier than before ; ' 4 !:>■ CHAP. XII. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 179 but, for my own part, all weariness vanished away, and I felt myself ready for any labours that might bring me nearer to so splendid a goal. In course of the morning we made our second crossing of the M'Leod, and not long afterwards we crossed one of its tributaries, a stream about half its size, called the Kivifere d'Embarras, or Lying-wood River, whose banks in this vicinity • were broken by steep, low rocks, resembling in character those at Guy's Cliff near Warwick. Whisky looked funnier than ever in his passage through the shallow stream, half wading half swimming, with his fat sides bent into an arch by the weight of the impetuous cur- rent, and his odd little stump of a tail up- vimsKv. pointed to the skies, flirting bright water about like a sea- god's shell in a fountain. [Poor Whisky filled the place of the ancient domestic jester ; one look at him dispelled melancholy ; every movement he made was a farce. With his cunningly timorous countenance and sleekly rounded ple- beian body, he was a true Sancho Panza of dogs. He was a daily delight : I would not have exchanged him for the best dog in the Company's territories.] It was a good deal past our usual dinner-time when we halted near a small camp of half-breed hunters, who hospitably presented us with some wild raspberries they had just been gathering. ' The clouds blew off, and the day became sunny and very pleasant. I rode forward as usual with old Antoine, and presently, arriving at the brow of a hill that overliangs tlie /I 1 * \ i III M m.^:i 180 FORT EDMONTON TO CHAP. XII. ' V i Embarras, a glorious sight opened upon iny view — the Rocky Mountain range, stretching along the horizon far as the eye could reach. Below us rolled the river among dark pines ; hills, also covered with pines — some black and scorched with fire, some green and flourishing, — filled up the prospect for many miles ; tlien came flat bare eminences, the footstools of the loftier range, and then uprose the mountains themselves, rugged in form, peaked and tabled, and scored with gashes, — not magnified hills, but rocks in the very archetype. Too remote to display any smaller modulations, they rose flat against the blue sky, themselves all steeped in a soft mellow grey from summit to base ; but in certain ravines, and on some of the high shoulders of the greater peaks, spots and masses cf «now glittered in the sun, or looked cold as death Avhere no rays were able to reach them. ' With feelings almost too deep for utterance, I turned to Antoine, hoping to find in him some sympathetic response. His eyes gleamed and sparkled as they met mine ; with a pleasant smile he pointed first to the nearer hills, then to the grand range that stretched far away beyond : " JVIonsieur Mi- lord," said he, with impressive earnestness, " il n'y a pas des moutons ici ; — mais la has — ah ! ! " ' Taking a rough piece of paper from my pocket, I made a hasty sketch of the principal peaks, after Avhich wc rejoined the men, and then all descended to the Embarras and crossed it again. From tliis, half-an-hour's riding brought us to a glade where three or four Ivofpiois and half-breed hunters were encamjicd with their families, and tliere we halted, in the hope of getting horses and other things that were required Tents being pitclied, I walked a mile or two, expecting to see the moun- tains again from a different point, but owing to the nature of the ground I could only discern the tops of a few lofty peaks. M $ii if o M d u •J a; > < u H O H ;3 o o u DS H 'U i J ft ^tifeiMlilBiii i II r 1 ^1 CHAP. XII. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 181 * Moose at supper : excellent though rather tough ; the fat delicious. How one longs for a good larder and an educated cook!' Sunday, Atiffust 28th. — The night was intensely cold ; hoar frost covered all the ground, some water in a basin was frozen nearly half-an-inch thick ; but the heat became too great after the sun got fairly up, and poured down his power- ful rays into the sheltered valley. At dinner I was presented with another new dish, in the form of the last joints of a beaver's back-bone. — ' Exquisite : tender white lean, melting fat, like sucking-pig but better, without the least over-richness of taste, and free from the painful suspicions which interfere with the enjoyment of roast skunk.' I afterwards rode to the point whence my previous sketch of the mountain had been taken, and made a more careful drawing of the same subject. There was a haze over the mountains themselves, though the sky was cloudless elsewhere ; the obscurity, however, being only partial, I got in their general features pretty accurately, notwithstanding the bad quality of the materials I had to work with. ' The wife of one of the hunters has made me a gun-cover of moose leather, ornamented with fringes and narrow braidings of red and black cloth, after the picturesque fashion of the country.' [It was the custom to keep one's gun covered, except when wanted for immediate use. This protected it from bad weather, and kept it from injury when carried across the saddle. My Fort Garry cover was merely of buffalo skin, which, being little better than wash-leather, was neither strong enough for mountain work, nor thick enough in continuous rain. Duncan and Toma, who carried my smooth-bores after we left the carts behind us, had only common waterproof I' \ Bl 182 FORT EDMONTON TO CHAP. XII. is-.- i covers, but the stuff gimlually wore into holes, and the guns suffered a little from want of protection.] ' These hunters are fine-looking men ; dressed either in the usual fringed leather hunting-shirts, or in blue cloth capots. Their CJips are of blue cloth, small, with a leather shade, and covered with streamers of ribbon, chiefly black, blue, and red. * They have large herds of excellent horses — ponies we should call them at home, — among them several stallions. One pretty brown pony passed us, carrying a little girl five or six years old, who was riding quite alone. Near one of the tents I saw two girls, of much the same age, cleaning a beaver-skin with a bone, while two others were cutting up fat with great knives. Think of that, A — and C — ! ' The baby of our fellow-traveller Pierre, the Iroquois, was taken ill at night, and the father, in great anxiety, sent John M'Kay to ask me to come and give it medicine, I went immediately to see the little patient. Its mother sat crying at the tent door in front of a wretched fire, holding the child nearly naked on her lap, and hel* husband leant over her with miserable looks, and eyes all full of tears. An old woman crouched near them in silence. I felt very soriy for them, and hoped that Heaven would enable me to do their child some good. It seeiAed probable it had got a chill in the frosty nights we had lately been having ; for it was dry and feverish, and inclined to sickness, though there was no diarrha?a ; and I began to consider how one miglit best help nature, while soothing the parents by some sliow of active measures. I dared not give medicine, knowing that pills and powders fit for men might kill a ten-month baby, — fearing, besides, lest if the child died I should be held by these untaught people the cause of its death, according to a prevalent Indian fancy. CHAV. xir. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 183 After a moment's thought I put on an air of decision, and desired that the fire should be made as large as possible, and the poor naked child very closely wrapt up in several shawls and blankets. These orders were obeyed with some signs of reviving cheerfulness, and Mackay presently returned from our camp bringing a pot of weak tea, which I had sent him to get ready. I then directed the mother to hold her baby close to the fire, and pour tea down its throat, as much as it could be made to swallow. With perfect confidence in my skill, she took a spoon and began the feeding process, which so greatly disgusted the child, that it struggled and screamed, and rejected the tea, till, between its own efforts and the heat of the blazing logs, a little moisture began to appear. Tell- ing them to keep the baby warm, as they valued its life, I left them and returned to my tent, and next morning had the happiness of hearing that the treatment had been a complete success. ' After nightfall there was a most beautiful aurora ; some- times like a tent, with streams proceeding earthwards in every direction from a fixed central point, sometimes like a very grand arch stretching from east to west through Arcturus, Vega, Cygnus, and the neighbouring stars. Then it became a mass of glowing red, spreading over the eastern side of the heavens, and gradually passing to the south. Old Antoine said that he had never seen an aurora in the south before. The Indians believe these lights to be the spirits of men dancing in the sky.' August 29th. — This morning was occupied in buying and exchanging horses. We bartered a Sharp's rifle belonging to Mackay for a strong three-year-old black horse, and ex- changed La Framboise, who was nearly done out, for a good 1 jygjiT^sr" ■ . There was a slight thunderstorm, but on the whole it had been a fine day. We came upon the tracks of a moose, but neither saw tlie animal itself, nor game of any sort, — except wood-grouse, of which I shot two with the ritle, decapitat- ing one of the pair. IV i t ciiAr. XII. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. nr August Z\st. — Crossed the Embarras three or four time more, then finally left it, nnd stnick across hills covered with woll-giown pines, and valleys obstmcted by deep bogs, passing also through several large openings, mostly of a very swampy character. Old camps and other traces of the Assiniboines were numerous, — which quite accounted for the scarcity of game in the district. We now again came to the M'Leod liiver, — about forty yards wide, shallow and rapid ; and parted there from one of the Iroquois (not our old friend Pierre, but a hunter of the same band), who had for the last day or two accompanied us, — our ways diverging, his destination being Jasper's House, while we proceeded up stream by the shortest road to the mountains. We crossed the M'Leod several times, threading its course as we travelled along the valley. The timber was of consider- able gi'owth ; there were very good spruces and firs, but they had been terribly spoilt by the Indians, who had more or less barked them to extract the sap. ' Before dinner I rode Jasper, who sailed like a strong ship through the bugs ; in the afternoon, Cendr(5, — much refreshed by the long rest I have given him. ' This morning's work has been very severe for our horses, the fallen trees on the steep hill-sides being so numerous, and often so large, that progi-ess was slow and toilsome. It is amusing to watch the different horses going over the great trunks, some jumping, while others creep and scramble. Old liRgrace, as usual, has a way of his own — he stands on the trees, and makes his horse leap them by hauling at him with a line. He has decorated his white flannel cap with a strip of scarlet cloth, which presents a most imposing appearance. ' This evening the men started the plan of two separate camp fires — for the first time. I disapprove of this arrange- I 188 FORT EDMONTON TO ROCKY MOUNTAINS. CIIAI'. XII. luciit, Ijccause it either breaks up tlio party into sections, <>r else they all go to ono of the fires, which is naturally that farthest from my tent, so that I am left alone, and a stronger line of demarcation is drawn between me and my people. I hope to put things right without much difficulty, by manner rather than words. * The Saskatchewan men have not added to the workability of the party, though good enough men in themselves. [There was not quite the same orderly and cordial spirit that existed before their anival.] Last Saturday I had to find fault decidedly, because, in order to keep up with the free-men, M'Kay hurried over breakfast and started the men before I was ready. He took my reproof admirably, and has been doubly attentive ever since. I believe it was a fault of inadvertency.' [After hesitating whether or not to suppress this and one or two similar entries in my journal, I have determined to leave tliem : partly, because they seemed so important at the time that their omission would impair the faithfulness of the narrative ; partly, because I am glad of opportunities to show that my praises of the excellent fellows who accompanied mo are not empty panegyiics, but that I can plainly state all, or nearly all, of the few and trivial instances in which I had reason for dissatisfaction with them, during the many months we travelled together over the prairie and the mountain.] *n ) It \ II H I I CHAPTER XIII. MEDICINE TENT RIVER AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. SlJPTEMBER l.s^.— After breakfast Antoine and I rode for- ward together up the M'Leud vaUey, and crossed the river a dozen times at least. The mountains now appeared close in front of us. One of them particularly struck me from its resemblance to Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh ; it was similar in shape, and apparently in formation, though on a gi'eatly magnified scale. There was no snow upon it, even in the higher regions, except a few streaks about the northern face. ' As we were riding past a deep pool as clear as crystal, at the foot of a low but rugged crag, old Antoine paused and eyed it attentively, — adnjiring its beauty I hoped, — and almost believed, on seeing him stop again and gaze even more attentively at another rock and pool a little farther on. He has some sense of the beautiful, after all, said I to myself. "Milord!" said he, "les petits poissons :" — and immediately began to make a rough fishing rod.' We rejoined the rest of the party, then all halted for dinner, in the midst of noble scenery, and while the horses glazed among the scattered rocks and fir-trees, and the men smoked and chatted good-humouredly together, I passed a very pleasant hour in reading " Macbeth." Continuing our march up the M'Leod, we presently entered a fine rocky gorge, between the "Arthur's Seat" mountain and another of less remarkable appearance, and M TSr 190 MEDICINE TENT KIVER CHAP. XUI. mm^ P.' after a few miles of easy ti avelling, reached a point where a smaller stream flowed into the river in a succession of picturesque cascades. Our track now diverged, and passed up the course of the stream and close beside the waterfalls ; it was an unfrequented road, and we found it a good deal blocked with brush, and altogether out of order ; but a little axe work soon cleared away the impediments, and we made the ascent without accident, 'At the top of the rapids the valley showed a tamer character, its sides being comparatively low and covered with grass and young pines ; nevertheless there were fine distant views at intervals, and when we camped for the night in a deep glen that intersected our course, a grand rocky peak could be seen crowning the end of the ravine we had chosen for our halting place. We made an enormous fire of logs — the men had taken my hint, there was but one fire * — and slept well in spite of the keenness of the frost, Nothing could exceed the beauty of the pines and firs as displayed by the light of our flaming pyramid, even the grass showed a strange ruddiness mingled with its quiet green, and the eyes of the horses wandering on the banks above us, shone like little stars rising and setting incessantly amidst deepest shades.' September 2d. — A cold frosty night, as was now almost always the case. We continued our march up the stream of the cascades ; its banks were no longer steep, but had become very tame and featureless. In one pool we surprised a family of black diving ducks, and managed to get three or four of them, which turned out particularly good eating, almost the best of their kind I ever tasted. * III a few days we returned to the two-fire plan, finding it more convenient as the weather grew colder. ( lO -^0^ .rtl^ CHAP. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 191 After this we observed eigliteen wild sheep on the shoulder of a mountain on our right, so — directing the " brigade " to pursue its way over the low ridge before us, till they came to a valley which contained a certain small lake, — Antoine, M'Kay, and I, rode off to the foot of the hill where the animals had just been seen. Leaving our horses, we proceeded to climb the rocks, but the slieep had disappeared, probably scared by our party, which was full in sight though a con- siderable distance away. * When high among the precipices we heard some " siffleurs " whistling with their clear, bell-like, melancholy notes, and presently saw one, but out of shot. This beast, a kind of marmot, is considerably less than a badger, though not unlike one in form and colour ; its tail, however, is larger and its fur finer, in these respects it more resembles the opossum. Its teeth are very long, and shaped like those of the beaver or rabbit. The rocks are its abode : probably it nearly answers to the " coney " of the Book of Proverbs.* ' We also saw some very pretty ground-squirrels, not so large as a common rat ; they were striped with yellow on a greenish grey, and had bushy tails about half the length of their bodies. Their cry is like the chirping of a bird. I did not shoot one, as my rifle bullet would have cut so small a creature into atoms.' Having got our horses again, we climbed along the mountain-side, on tracks where I should have thought nothing but a goat could pass, and then descended to the lake, where the brigade had now already arrived. On our way we observed * Arctomys ? Pruinosus. The Whistler. Tlw Hoary Marmot — Pennant. Qutsqtds-m—Crce Indians. Soiiffleur [Siffleur] or Mountain Badger— ¥\\r- traders. "Mr. Macplievson describes one . . . killed on the Mackenzie River. . . . It was 27. i inches long, of which the head 2|, and the tail 8^." KiciiAUU- HON, — Faun. Bor,-Am., vol. i. p. 150. "'i i£':| ^^ J- . < i ; ;-'■ i ) , : > W hi if 192 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CHAP, XIII. a " white sheep " (mountain goat) high up on the opposite crags, and, after leaving our horses at the camp, went in search of him, but had a much longer walk and harder climb than I had expected. At length we came to within a very long shot of where he was lying, close to a sharp turn among the rocks, and I crawled on alone, bringing myself a third of the way nearer, — after a most painful stalk, for the stones cut like knives. An exceedingly careful approach brought me to a stone about 120 yards from him, but I could get no nearer : then I fired at him as he lay — for if he had risen he would have been out of sight in a moment, — and had the satisfaction of making a clean miss. No better sport remaining, we began to roll immense stones down the steep — a favourite amusement with my men, both young and old delighting in it, — sending them crasliing into a grove of small-sized fir-trees, which snapped like twigs at the stroke of the flying boulders. Then, getting caught in a shower, we made the best of our way back to camp, and reached home about nightfall. ' There we found that Munroe had shot a siffleur ; and, for the first time, I had the pleasure of eating that most delicious meat, which tastes like very delicate mutton, with the fat of a sucking-pig.' Scptemher 3d — ' The camp is surrounded with magnificent rocky heiglits ; I leave it with sorrow. Would that it were the beginning of summer instead of the end ! Had a lund-leg of siftleur for breakfast, and find it tlie best part. In shape and distribution of fat it is a miniature haunch of venison ; it is possible to eat the whole at a meal.' When we set out, Wliisky took possession of the siffleur's head, carrying it face-foremost in the most ridiculous manner, with its rabbity teeth sticking out in front of his ov n, and 11 M ISO' l\'i 1 -'-, i r. ► or-r- : 'E pr- IKSTITUTEL 3Ciaj'"^ ■ r iJ'! I'^'P i n MOUNT LINDSAY-NEAR MEDICINE TENT RIVER. (Seep. loj. CHAP. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 193 trotted beside "us, exhibiting- hrs*treasure with a delightfully amusing air of self-complacent sagacity. After crossing a river which runs in a southerly direction, [we believed it to be a branch of the " North Eiver," as my men called it, which is a head-water of the North Saskatchewan, — possibly that termed " Brazeau Eiver" in some of the maps], w ^ded a hill, and, on gaining the top of it, came to a im flowing with rapid current towards the west. I 1 alone in front of my party, following the course of let, and suddenly found myself stopped by a rocky , through which the water rushed, partly in cascades, jattly through a very deep and narrow gorge. On the banks above this place I picked up some specimens of fossil shells ; then climbing the hill to my left I rejoined the brigade, having first made a sketch of a magnificent snow-crowned mountain directly opposite, on the farther side of a rather considerable stream which receives the little brook I had just been following, a stream which, according to Antoine, is called the "Medicine Tent Eiver," and forms one of the principal head-waters of the river Athabasca. ' To descend into its valley we had to go down a hill of extraordinary steepness. It was barely practicable for the pack-horses, but we reached the bottom without accident, and then pursued our way up the river with the mysterious name. At dinner-time I made a very hurried sketch of a noble mountain of black slaty rock, the last on the right as we descended the hill of difficulty, but unfortunately clouds came down and covered the curiously cloven mitre-like summit, which formed its most characteristic feature, before I had time to seize the exact outline.* * This wild and beautiful mountain I have named Moxint Lindsay, after my friend Sir Coutts Lindsay, Bart., of Balcanes. 194 MEDICINE TENT RIVER ("IIAI". XIII. ' Wc continued our inaicli up tlio river amidst scenery of surpassing magnificence. On the left, as one proceeds, the heights are less grand, rumiiiig more in a plain continuous ridge, but on the right tliere is a far higher wall of rock, which is broken by a succession of glorious peaks, while ^■-^- WW ;1B|5 ' MOUNTAIN IN MKDICINK TENT VAI.I.KV. lower precipitous spurs, divided by deep rocky glens, run out- waids to the river. ' Among the loftier mountains the most are pyramidal ; a few are more rounded in form ; some are decorated witli great masses of snow glittering on their northern sides ; otliers are utterly unclotliod except upon their grassy pine-clad feet ; but all agree in one thing — they are rock, absolute rock, witliout admi.\ture of other "substance. Sometimes the rocks are placed in steep piles one aboAo tlie other, like heaps of niu". XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 195 It it It lof gigantic slates, far ofteiicv they are disposed in a succession of rugged precipitous ridges. Sonietinics wide tracts are covered with shingly fragments, sometimes the strata wliirl in such curious fashion, that far-spreading spaces look like vast stores of petrified trees upheaved in the ruin of a dis- mantled world. ' The rivers are shallow and rapid, rushing over pebbly beds ; they are generally clear, but of an opaque green or muddy brown when the snow ir melting fast. Their banks are bordered by wide belts of pine-trees, — chiefly Scotch and silver firs, but not without a sprinkling of spruces. These trees are small, being kept down by the cold and by frequent avalanches of snow or stones ; except a few gnarled old patriarchs, none are larger than an ordinary fir of thirty years' gi'owth. ' In the afternoon we passed through the ruins of a subordinate mountain, which had fallen as if shivered by lightning, and covered hundreds of acres with shattered rocks broken into the most fantastic forms. 'The changes of temperature are very sudden in these elevated valleys. At noon we were hiding from the burning sun in any shade that could be found, in the evening we were trembling in the icy wind of a premature winter : — but there are no mosquitoes, so welcome cold, heat, wind, rain, fog, anything, if only these tormentors are cut off! — ' Our camp was placed on a hill-side, looking down on a small lake, and within sight and sound of a water- fall. We were well supplied with food. My own supper was chiefly composed of porcupine, — Kline having killed one of these animals with a stick, — it was like siffleur, but too rich and fat. Old Lagrace had brought in a large " partridg(>," a bird of the size and appearance of a groy- i! 'ii'!(| 196 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CHAP. XIII. hen,* which he knocked off a branch with a stone, and Antoine had been out on the mountains and shot a female wild sheep.' Sunday, September 4tk. — Mist came rolling up the valley, the niglit grew bitterly cold : I pulled a blanket over my head, but could still feel the icy air striking sharjily on my face ; tlien I burrowed among three blankets and heaped all my clothes upon them, and managed to get a little sleep, but it Avas not till the sun rose that I found myself at all comfortable. For breakfast, this morning, had roast ribs of sheep — a better flavoured meat than common mutton. After dinner, I set out with IM'Kay, M'Beath, Duncan, and Antoine, and climbed to the top of the mountain that stands across the end of the valley. It was hard work, the exces- sively steep slopes being covered with loose shingle which yielded to our feet, but perseverance at length succeeded, and we reached the summit. There was little view, as the mist hung thick over all but a few of the mountains. In the valley beneath us we saw a number of wild sheep, no rams liowever, only young males, or females with their lambs. Before quitting our elevation we set to work piling up big stones, and built a sort of rough tower, or cairn, some six feet high, on the highest and most commanding point, as a memorial of our visit ; then we descended more quickly than was altogether agreeable. Whisky, full of misplaced zeal, followed me to the very top, advancing with steady steps, though much more slowly than we did ; but in returning he got daunted by the perils * Probably the feumle of the Dusky Grouse — ( Tclrao Ohscurus). Kiciiaud- soN, — Fnun. Bor.-Am., vol. ii. p. 344. The female is nineteen inches long, — much the size of the female Black-cock, which it also seems to resemble in plumage. ■ CHAP. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 197 of the way, and began to show signs of alarm, stopping with bewildered looks wlien he came to the dangerous descents, then creeping a step or two forward, but so lingeringly, that, by the time we ab half-way down, he looked a more black speck in the upper region, where our new monument was standing in all its pride. Lagrace came into camp soon after, bringing a large porcupine which he and Pointer had secured between them. That unlucky dog, having followed it by scent, had seized it so rashly as to get his mouth struck through with quills, some of which took such firm hold that we were unable to draw tliera out. [Of this animal {Hystrix inloaus — The Canada porcnpinc, termed Cawquaw by the Cree Indians), Sir John Eichardson writes — " Its quills . . . are rough, with minute teeth directed backwards. . . . These spines, which are detached from the porcupine by the slightest touch, and probably by the will of the animal, soon fill the mouths of the dogs which worry it, and unless the Indian women carefully pick them out, seldom fail to kill them. Wolves occasionally die from the same cause." — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. p. 214-15. I suppose f ' :., Lagrace, who had taken Pointer under his special charge, afterwards succeeded in extracting the quills ; at all events, the dog was none the worse of the adventure.] September 5th. — ^Early in the morning, while half asleep after a very wakeful and uncomfortable night, M'Kay i-oused me up, reporting a grisly bear to be in view. Dashing on my clothes I started in pursuit, carrying a gun on each shoulder, Robinson Crusoe fashion — my rifle for a long shot, and the smoothbore with the big bullet for close quarters, — Lagi'ace and Antoine following with other weapons. The bear, how- ever, having seen our camp, or perhaps winded it, made off at I m 198 MKDICINE TENT lUVER IKAI'. XIII. I , i| a rapid pace, and, after two hours of fatiguing climbing in the chaos of the landslij), T liad to return without the sjxnt I had so fully expected. When on my way home, a sitlleur sud- denly appeared on a rock beside me ; I shot him dead ; im- mediately afterwards, a very pretty silvery-grey one came running past, and met with the same fate as its companion. The former was a male, the latter a female ; and both being good specimens, I had their skins preserved.* Sillleurs are hard to get hold of, for, unless shot, quite dead, they scram- ble into their holes like wounded rabbits. On arriving at camp, I found the men impatient to set out on a sheep-hunt they had been promised for to-day. I breakfasted very hurriedly, intending to go with them ; but changed my mind, and took a short rest instead, — feeling the morning's work, as I was tathar unwell, and in bad walking condition. In half-an-hour, however, I made a start of it, accom- panied by Antoine and Duncan, — the latter carrying my smoothbore, as I thought it likely to be serviceable, — and we went together up a liroad valley that branched to the left from that in which our camp was situated. The men had gone in different parties up the surrounding heights ; except Munroe, who had taken his own line, preferring a separate and more distant beat. It was not long before we observed some sheep, — discover- ing three of them among the rocks on the opposite side of a deep ravine, — only an old ewe, unluckily, with two yearlings at her side. The ewe and a young ram fell at once to my ride i * The skin of the male siffleur measures 274 inches from nose to root oj' tail (the tail is rather destroyed) ; that of the female 26 inches, and the tail of it 8.t inches to tlie end of the liiiir. The skin of another specimen measures — body 23 inches, tail about 8 inches. CIIA!'. Xllt. AND NORTH UIVEIl CAMPS. l'J9 . shots, and I broke the jaw of the other with the smoothbore ; Aiitoine then knocked it over dead, making a very fine shot with his okl flint rifle, — a most extraordinary little implement, so short and small, so bound up and mended with leather and brass-headed tacks, and altogether so worn and weather-beaten, as to look like some curious anticiue toy. After this, I went to stalk a herd we liJid perceived some little way off, while Antoine remained to watch the ravine. It took me a long round to get to the place I was trying for — an isolated hillock about sixty yards from the sheep, — and when I arrived there I shot badly, being dreadfully out of breath. However, after missing with both barrels, I had still time to load and fire again, the animals being confused, and looking about them instead of attempting to escape, and with these shots I wounded one ewe severely, and mortally wounded the only ram in the herd — a good- sized two-year-old, which, run- ning down the ravine, was met by Antoine, who finished it, and shot another ewe besides. I ran after the wounded ewe. A lamb was with her ; and, wishing to kill it — as an act of mercy, to save it from starva- tion — I waited till it was in line with its mother, and struck them both with the same ball. The ewe struggled on some distance, but I overtook and finished her. Antoine now joined me, and we set-to to skin and cut up our sheep, much pleased to have obtained so good a supply of fresh meat for the camp. He told me, much to my surprise, that my first sheep of all, after lying a long time apparently dead, had jumped up actively on hearing a shot close by her, and "saved herself" up the steep side of the mountain. On returning to camp I found that all my people, except Munroe, had come in unsuccessful from the chase : but he presently appeared, bringing with him the head of an old ram k} 1. ; ! I' ij 200 MEDICINK TKNT UIVEH cum: xik. with very good horna. He liad also killeJaiiotlior with a still largt'v head. This was ciiconmgiiig news, as it showed that herds of fine shee]) were in the lunghboiirhood. The ohl rams at this season keej) in parties l)y themselves, and one nuiy h.nnt whole days without finding anything hetter than bands of ewes and hunhs and young males. The head brought in by ]\Iuni'oe was so heavy as to be a fair load for a man. ' Dined off what Toma and Lagracc call " porty-pig " (jmr- ejyic, porcupine). It was boiled to-night — much better thus than roasted, — tasting like rather fat, delicate nnitton. 'Toma is sometimes very factitious in his (juiet way. There was an old Indian with the Carlton hunters at Cherry Bush, whom he nicknamed " The Saw-mill," from the incessant jarring drone of his voice as he told endless stories in Cree, and this name had qowxq to be typically applied to any offender of the sort. One of our old hands, lately, was droning away at a long story about some Indian fight, which he suddenly broke off with a sharp sound, in imitation of the "ping" of a closely-passing bullet. • Toma softly got up, stepped across th° fire to where iMatheson was sitting, and, stooping over him, very gravely said — "Saw-mill broke!" Matheson went into fits of laughter, and ran all round the place, telling everybody of Toma's sententious remark.' Scptcmhcr dth. — Having determined to move the camp to another valley, I made a rough sketch of the opi)Osite mountains as a remembrance of the scene. This finished, I marked my name on a fir-tree, a matter easily accomplished by blazing off part of the bark, and drawing the letters on the exi)osed surfiice with the black end of a half-burnt stick. The resin dries soon afterwards, and forms a sort of varnish which preserves the inscription for years. 'The place we are leaving is known as the "Height of m\ '■i s^ .^■^. I ! > > H U U 3 2 < Li "?, O X i^ i-'j f 1 1 il. CHAP. XHI. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 201 1-3 < > r' 'A U H M It, U 3 < o U3 f . Land," being just where the waters divide, — the Athabasca head-stream rising in the snows of a great mountain (which stands towards the left in my sketch), and flowing northwards, while the North Eiver (I have heard no other name for it) flows southwards, to the north branch of the Saskatchewan, from a point not far distant. This country is very little known. The Iroquois, the Assiniboines, and others, hunt as far as the small lake near which we camped on the 2d, but, strangely enough, they do not traverse the few miles farther, which would bring them from where game is scarce and wild, to where it abounds and is easy of approach. Perhaps superstitious reasons may keep them away, as the name " Medicine Tent Eiver " indicates magic and mystery. * 1 am the first European who has visited this valley, and if I might have the geographical honour of giving my name to some spot of earth, I should choose the mountain near which the two rivers rise.* ' Tliere seem to be no Indian names in this country for even the most remarkable of its features. This is the less surprising, as the whole district is only inhabited by a few families of wandering hunters, and they are rapidly decreasing in number. * The mountains seem to be mostly similar in composition to the rock formations near Edinburgh ; precipitous walls and rocky summits, resembling those of the Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, being common, while occasionally there are lighter-coloured and lower masses, independent of the others though connected with them, which much remind one of the * Tliat inountaiii is perliaps appropriiiteil, being probably visible from the other side; but no one could dispute my claim to the " Height-of-Laud " eminence, which I have therefore taken leave to designate on the maps by my own name, as raiser of the cairn that crowns its summit. 202 MEDICINE TENT RIVER ciiAi'. xm. i* ' '! I K 11 F 'it ^ ? f S Ml ' M ^ li Bass Kock. The general colouring of the subordinate hills and valleys is nearly the same as in the Higlilands of Scotland, for, although the beautiful heather is not found here, there are grasses and small-leaved plants, which impart a subdued richness like that which the heather preserves after its purple bloom is past. The streams, however, are more lovely than many of the Scottish rivulets, for they are clear, instead of running dark with the black stain of peat-moss. 'After my name had been marked on the fir-tree, we moved the camp a few miles, passing down into the neigh- bouring valley of the North Eiver. Antoine and I rode forward together, but stopping for a while at the turn of the hill, we heard the rest of the party approaching, and waited for their arrival. As my men came into view, dashing up at a brisk pace, or galloping here and there to drive in the straggling horses, I was greatly struck with their picturesque appearance ; having, indeed, hardly seen them on the march together since we left Edmonton, for the thick woods and narrow winding tracks keep a large party always in detach- ments. — ' All of them carried guns, all, except three, were dressed in fringed leather Imnting-shirts, — of every colour, from the yellow of newness, and the white of new-washedness, to the blood-stained brown of extreme antiquity, as displayed in Antoine's venerable garment. M'Kay, powerful in form and strong of muscle, broad-chested, dark, and heavily bearded, with a wide-brimmed black hat and unfringed buff coat, and bestriding a large brown horse, resembled some Spanish cavalier of old ; while Matheson, mounted on an active little dun pony, — with a blue Saskatcliewan cap, gay with bright ribbons, over his long fair hair, and broad belts of scar- let cloth across his chest, — tall, straight, and merry, — was the a i .i ■( OIIAI'. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 203 image of a gallant young troubadour, riding in smart undress to the tournament. ' M'Beatli, lengthy of staturo,dark,moustached and bearded, grave and calm, with a military belt and a rifleman's sword, looked like an ex-Life Guardsman, half in uniform ; and this martial resemblance was heightened by the red blanket that served as his saddle-cloth, and contrasted richly with tlie coal- black horse that carried him. Kline, wiry and active, riding Lane — that fine old white mountain-horse, which few but he could capture when loose on the plains, — made a gay and cheerful show ; his broad-brimmed white hat, with its wavy blue-ribbon streamers, perched upon long curly black hair, and shading a clever, well-bearded face ; his chest surmounted by belts of silver and red brocade. 'Next came Munroe, — tall, strongly yet lightly framed, wearing a short canvas hunting-shirt belted round the waist with leather, and cross-belted with much-embroidered cloth of black ; then Short, formed like a Greek statue, strong and very active, but of no great height, wearing a handsome pouch of leather ornamented with blue and white beads ; — hardy fellows both, of showy dashing air, ready to do aught that might become a man. 'Duncan, dressed in strong sand-grey shooting-suit and flannel shirt, wearing a stout wide-awake hat, and carrying a double gun in its plain waterproof cover, looked every inch the worthy Scotsman that he is. Near him rode Toma, the brave Iroquois canoe-man, leather-shirted, darkly and simply dressed, slow in the movement of his massive limbs, with swarthy face, and small black eyes, giave in their expression though often twinkling with humour, — a most faithful and excellent fellow. ' Then Lagrace, that original and amusing old man, in a 11 > t h \ «i^ • 1( h! ■ 1.1- f ( ; 204 MEDICINE TENT EIVER. CHAP. XIII. purple cotton shirt, tight but very long and wrinkled trousers, a white blanket skull-cap enriched with peak and ears, and decorated with streamers of scarlet cloth, beneath a battered eagle-feather which probably once adorned some Indian horse's tail, — that keen-witted ancient traveller who did everything differently from other men, — led when they drove, woke when they slept, drank cans of strong tea at dead of night, walked out alone and slew queer animals with sticks and stones while all the rest were at their meals, — that quaint old jester who enlivened our halts, after the weariest marches on the dullest days, by all manner of strange devices, — scalp-dances round the kettle lid, Cree war-songs, sudden wrestling matches with Antoine (in which this old aggressor always got the worst), jokes in the most astonishingly broken English, — to whom or what shall he be Ukened, with his brown parchment skin, his keen aquiline nose, his piercing black eye&, long wild locks, and half-mockingly smiling, small and thin-lipped mouth ? I know not — unless Mephistopheles have an American twin-brother ! (' To include the spectators — Antoine, stout and romid of make, of olive-brown skin and long black hair, was clad in the dusky leather shirt already spoken of, and bore on his arm his curious little rifle, and in his belt an immense hatchet-knife ; on his head was a dark-tinted Saskatchewan cap. Though long past liis youth, he still had the air of a hardy, active hunter, while his whole aspect truly bespoke him a most kind-hearted, honest, and agreeable man. * For myself, — - f'ore a — noAv only tolerably clean — cream- coloured hunting-shirt of buffalo skin, fringed on the arms and shoulders ; grey trousers fastened under the knee with pieces of green braid ; and a thin, white, wide-brimmed Yankee hat, with the high bell-shaped crown pressed in, and , CHAP. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 205 11 4 a broad band of grpen ribbon tied round it ; from my shoulder was slung a telescope ; hanging to my leather belt was a short hunting knife, in a moose-skin sheath plainly embroidered with black and white beads, and beside it a small tobacco- pouch of the same pattern. My charger was the little black Hercules — Jasper, with immense crest and streaming mane and tail. Across the saddle I carried my favourite rifle, in the fringed buff moose-skin cover which I got from the M'Leod Eiver Iroquois.) * As this gallant party topped the crest of a low hill fair in my view, ribbons streaming, guns swaying, whips flashing, gay colours sparkling in the sun, some approaching at .a quick trot, others dashing after vagrant steeds, or urging the heavy-laden pack-horses, who jogged along like elephants with castles on their backs — all life, dash, rattle, and glitter, — they formed so bright a picture, so grandly back-grounded by the stately rocks, so gaily fore-grounded by the crisp green sward, that I could not refrain from attempting to describe it, though the ablest pen or pencil would fail to do justice to the scene.' — We all halted together, and camped, and in the after- noon Antoine and I went out to the hills. Coming to a rocky ravine, we observed a herd of female sheep on the opposite side, and opened fire on them. The old hunter killed one ewe and two lambs, I killed two of the ewes and wounded an- other, and afterwards getting a long running chance at the wounded one, I knocked it over also. After " arranging " the slain (to use Antoine's expression) we proceeded to the highest part of a steep narrow ridge, a spur of the principal range, and looking over the rocky wall that formed its upper edge, saw close by, just upon the other side, a small herd of rams, two of which had remarkably fine ■I't^ ';«' ;l-^ t\i 206 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CHAP. XIII. ,!' i I •• •■i % I -» horns. The nearest of these I shot quite dead, the other struggled on severely wounded. Autoine ran after it to finisli it off, but his flint-lock missed fire, and, before he was ready again, tlio fine old ram dropped lifeless, and rolled down the slope of the hill. The horns of this pair were very good indeed, larger even than those brought in by Munroe the day before, but, as usual, somewhat worn and broken at the points. Returning to our horses, which we had left below, we got home in excellent time. On our arrival. Short reported that he had come close upon a large grisly bear, in the valley below the ridge where I had been shooting the rams. It looked at him, and he at it, but neither cared to begin the fight, so each went his own way. [At the time. Short's behaviour seemed to me rather over-cautious ; with a good double-barrelled gun in his hand, I thought he ought not to have declined the combat. But, on reflection, I believe he acted rightly, having no sufficient inducement for such a hazardous venture. So fierce, strong, active, and tenacious of life is the grisly bear, that even for the best marksman, supported by trustworthy companions, it is the height of imprudence to risk a long shot at him, and a failure at close quarters leaves a solitary hunter small chance indeed of escape. Talking about grislies, one day, with a good authority on the subject (I forget whom — it might have been James M'Kay), he informed me that if that animal perceives a man in an open plain or glade he will generally advance towards him, and when about a hundred yards distant will rear himself up on his haunches to reconnoitre, after which he will eitlier move away, or continue his .advance. In the latter case, he stops again when about thirty yards from the hunter, and again rears liimself on end. The hunter, mean- while, steadily waits, reserving his fire, and the grisly, having : /^ ' t'. 1 . CHAP. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 207 finished his inspection, again advances, until he is ten yards from his opponent, when for the third time he rises in all his gigantic height, prepared to hurl himself forth in the last terrible spring. Now is the hunter's moment : quick as thought his bullet passes into the chest of the bear, sped at that short range with such precision that it carries with it instantaneous death — woe to the hunter if it does not ! In the Eocky Mountains, though probably not north of the Bow Vd' ind its head-waters, there exists a savage and treachbi^^s w. jeast, more dangei\ 3 111 some respects than even the grisly himself. This is the puma — or some feline animal closely resembling it in colour and general appearance — which, while nearly as fierce and tenacious of life as the grisly bear, greatly excels him in activity, besides possessing an advantage denied to him — the cat-like power of climbing the highest trees. But it is not owing to these formidable qualities that the puma is an object of some dread, it is on account of its stealthy habits of nocturnal aggression. Marking out a snail party of hunters or travellers, it will follow them secretly for days, and watch by their camp at night, till at last it discovers one of their number resting a little separate from his com- panions. Then, when all is dark and silent, the insidious puma glides in, and the sleeper knows but a short awakening when its fangs are buried in his throat. One consolation is left to the survivors — if they kill the eater they may eat him in return ; for the puma is considered the most delicately-flavoured animal in the Territories. These details I gathered from my men, and I see no reason to doubt their truth, for, though such ferocious practices are not, to my knowledge, attributed to the puma of the Atlantic States, the jaguar of South America — a beast of kindred . « i: :i 4 i 208 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CUAl". XIII. i i I ' f , I species — is written of as attacking sleepers in the very manner described. One of my party amused us exceedingly by a story concerning a certain expedition to which he had been lately attached : — how some of the people belonging to it had noticed a puma in a tree, and immediately saluted it with a volley ; but how, instead of securing the victim, they had simultaneously taken to their heels at the moment of drawing trigger, and run so fast and far that they never felt inclined to go back to claim their trophy, — which they most shrewdly suspected might have claimed them, for, while the death of the enemy was doubtful, its indignation, if alive, was not. Neither in the mountains nor elsewhere did I even catch a glimpse of a puma, or observe its tracks, or any other sign of its existence. At one of the forts, however, I was shown some Blackfoot article — a quiver, or a saddlecloth, I think — which was chiefly composed of the fawn-coloured skin of that animal.] ' Fine weather still, — but misty over the distant mountains.' Septemhcr ^th. — ' Slept a little better. It is all very well to talk of custom reconciling to anything, of " hardy hunters," and the " enervating influences of civilisation," but, for my part, I find that no custom enables me to sleep as well on the ground as on a good mattress. The more tired I am y ' e worse it is ; I lie awake for hours, every joint aching, half my body too hot, tlie otlier half too cold. Tlien as to food ; alcohol may be "poison," but I am certain that tea has not equal virtue for restoring a thoro\ighly tired man, — to draw no parallel between the respective pleasantnesses in taste of a black, bitter fluid, on the one hand, and such delicious drinks as pale ale, sherry, claret, or champagne, on the other. As part proof, I find myself not only very thin, but in bad condition, weak, hardly able to climb the mountains ; yet for -^ CHAP. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 209 some time there have been no great fatigues to try my constitution, while the open air, and absence of care and business, ought in tliemselves to have doubled my strength. But, after all, what is strength or weakness if one succeeds in doing what one wishes to do? A great deal as to the pleasure at the time ; nothing as to the result.' [These remarks seem inconsistent with o'^^o^s in the journal, where tea is glorified, and the healthiness of tent life extolled, — nevertheless I leave them. Under varying circumstances the thoughts and feelings vary, and it is no true record of travel that displays nothing of the chameleon element in the traveller. Looking back after these many years, I should say, that tea was one of the best of drinks under conditions of ordinary health and labour, but that stimulants are useful in cases of illness or over-fatigue. Also, I think that the system sooner recovers from fatigue or small illnesses amidst civilised comforts than in the rough life of the woods and plains, though the latter is in itself far pleasauter and healthier. My tniiul had forgotten the toils of the journey through the thick woods, but my hody had not, and the mountain hunting was telling on me more severely than I imagined.] ' Set off in good time this morning to look for Short's bear, to get more rams with fine heads, and to carry in yesterday's game. Half the people remained in camp, cutting up and drying meat for our consumption on the homeward journey. The bear was not to be found, though we saw where he had been digging for roots, so I quitted the valley, and ascended the mountains with M'Kay and Antoine. Passing over the ridge we had climbed the day before, we went as far as the top of the next, and there came suddenly upon a small herd of old rams, having got very close with- out exciting their suspicions. One of them fell to my first shot, but I missed with the second barrel. As they ran % » ■ ''i % ! 'f v!: 1 • . '1 '\ 210 MEDICINE TENT IIIVEU CilAl'. XIII. h" down the declivity of the hill Antoine made a long and fine shot, and killed a ram with very handsome large horns, more twisted than nsual, and entirely perfect in their points. My sheep was an older one, with horns a good deal worn ; he was exceedingly fat, looking when skinned like a well-fed English wether of the highest quality. ' These beautiful mountain sheep are about the size of a large fallow buck, but lighter in the haunch, deeper in the chest, longer in the leg, and altogether larger in the bone. Except in the shape of the horns, their head is like that of the conmion goat ; the eye large, round and full, with a very large pupil, leaving only a narrow rim of pale yellow iris. Tlie hair is coarse and of a brown grey, except on the haunch and the inside of the legs and stomach, which are white. Some are much darker than others, apparently irrespective of age, though those under two or three years old are invari- ably light-coloured. ' Tlie females are smaller than the males, and have little goat-like horns, instead of the great curled horns of the rams, which on the American side of tlie border have given to the whole race the name of " the Big-horn." At this season the rams are in their best condition, very fat and but slightly rank ; in October they begin to become uneatable, as is the case with the red-deer stag in Scotland.'* An admiring contemplation of the beautiful horns carried by Antoine's sheep made me anxioi;.s to get some other speci- mens to match them ; so, while the " arranging " proceeded, I set off by myself, and took a pretty long climb after a small band that had just then appeared at no great distance from us. Wiiisky, who insisted on following me, came very mucii * Ovis Moiitiiiia yf ?;i »i on I'ljijd rij ils - Rocky Mouiitnih Shcrp. Jrgali — Cook, rKtilniaii. Ocis Oriffitii. Big-liorii — Lewis and Clarke. Cul-hlanc, ct r,'/(/.M<;-«'ni/: — Canadian Voyageiirs. My-uh Jik — Cree Indians. Ema-kee- ^i(w)i()(f— F)Iaokfopt, etc. liiCHARDSON, — Faun. Hor.-Ain., vol. i. p. 2/1. CHAP. XIII. AND NOllTH RIVER CAMPS. 211 ill the way, eitluir running I'orward, or lagging behind and squeaking loudly if I made any threatening movement ; notwithstanding this diiliculty 1 got tolerably near them, but mi.ssed the two running chances they oftered. By making a stalk, however, I got right above the sheep, who had betaken themselves to a very deep grassy hollow among the clifl's, and knocked one over at upwards of 180 yards, firing at four that stood close together. His head, though respectable, was not particularly large or good. ' Opening my telescope rather quickly to look at the slain, before descending to where he lay, Whisky uttered a squeak that might have been heard a mile oir, and took to his heels, evidently thinking I had got some whip of a new and danger- ous pattern. I never struck the poor creature nor spoke harshly to him in my life, but these Indian dogs are so fearfully beaten and ill-treated at home that they almost breathe in yells and squeaks, i have often seen children, four or five years old, take up the largest stick or stone they could lift, and dash it down on the wretched body of some unoffending dog — though it must be confessed, that at the forts or large camps the dogs are such a nuisance, so trouble- some, dirty, and noisy, that no one can resist hurling an occasional stone at them.' Having rejoined my companions, we set out together to stalk a great herd of rams which had just come into view : they were scattered about, feeding, or lying in groups, on the steep declivity of a hill at the end of the ridge we saw them from. We quickly gained the top of the hill, scrambled through some difficult rocks without alarming or disturbing the sheep, and got within range. Seeing a good chance, I fired a couple of shots at a pair of splendid rams that were feeding about not far beneath us. One fell dying, the other walked away, blood dripping from 3 *■•■•'■ ! ' ' v ■m i 4. W' f r-«' ; £ iij 1' if ! iiii II !» I 212 MEDICINE TENT IIIVER CIIAI'. XIII. his noso. M'Kay fired imincdiiitely iiftevwmds, and killed u very fine rain ; then we riislied difit'creiit ways among the rocks, in chase of the rest of the lierd. I began by firing two iiiell'ectiial shots at some rams moving along the face of the pr(!cii)ico I'ar Ixdow ; then observing the sheep I had wounded at my second shot, I fired at him again, but without perceptible result. As he was much too far off, I attempted to go down to him, and suddenly found myself in a very dangerous place, where a wide and steeply-descending trench-like hollow, lietween two firm hard ridges, was filled up and hidden l)y an accunnda- tion of pebbles and s'nall fragments of rock. "Wherever I stepped, the stones and shingle gave way in masses, carrying me along with them as r,l';ey went sliding on their downward course, hurrying towards depths I tried not to think about ; and, to add to my trouble, AVhisky appeared just above me — whining with fright, and struggling dcisperatcly to keep his footing on the treacherous surface, — and sent the stones in showers past my head. I hardly exi)octed ever to get to the top, — to descend or stand still would have been death, — but with great care and exertion, using my rille as a support by laying it flat on any firmer ledges, and leaning on it as I dragged myself upwards, I at length reached solid ground, — feeling very grateful to a kind I'rovidenco for bringing me safely through. Neither M'Kay nor Antoine were in sight, though I heard some shots quite distinctly, so I retTirned to where the rams we had first killed were lying. No one appearing, I deter- mined to walk homewards, and make another effort, by the way, to get the wounded ram I had already so nearly broken my neck in following. I took care, however, to choose a different road, and, after some climbing, at length f(jund myself close to the object of my search, lie was standing by I'llAl-. XIII. AND NORTH UJVEU ('AMI'S. 213 the etlgi! of 11 clilf iiLout thirty feet high. I was exactly beneatli him, on a narrow and 8lo))iiig j^rass-covered sljclf of rock, which ovcrlnnif( a tremendous prticipico tliat dropped sheer to the very base of the mountain itself. I stejtped back as far as I could, and fired at his heart ; it was a miss apparently, for he oidy moved higher up ; then ho turned and came to his former position, and looked at mo over the verge of the height. I instantly gave him tlio second barrel : the ball struck home : he made one spring off the cliff into empty air, and came crashing down on the turf at my feet, — nearly falling on poor Whisky, wlio must have entered this day n his journal us one of horrors. The ram lay kicking in the agonies of death, and was on the very point of rolling off the platfunn, but I got liold of his hind leg, and held on till he expired, n id then prop])ed his body firmly up with stones. At that moment I heard Antoine calb'ng close by; h' presently descended, and joined me on tlu nu rrow platform. His news was soon told : — M'Kay had shot several more of the rams ; he himself had been unsuccessfully following a wounded one ever since we separated. It was begirniing to get dark, so we has*:ened to re-ascend the precipices, then we went back to the safer ground, where some of the first killed sheep were lying just as they had fallen. As it was so late, Antoine only gi-alloched and partly skinned them, — placing something near each of them to drive away the crows, — instead of ' .. i.'nging" them in the usual manner. ' When time permits, the hunter's full " arrangement " is as follows : — He begins by nkinning the sheep, then takes off the head, and remove;, tiie paunch and offal as far as the heart; next ho cuts olf the legs and shoulders and back. The chest, witli the neck attached, now remains (a strange-looking • t 'i' ' III' t I I i m 214 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CHAP. XIII. ! if: object, which wouhl scare a respectable lariler into fits), and this he proceeds to lay beside the other joints, placing there also such internal parts as are considered good. Over the whole he then draws the skin, and having planted a stick in the ground close by, with a handkerchief or some such thing fastened to it, the operation of arranging is complete, and the animal is ready for conveyance home when the horses arrive. ' Antoine goes through the whole process with a large and very heavy knife, like a narrow and pointed cleaver, which is also used for cutting wood and performing all the offices of a hatchet, but unwieldy as it is, a practised hand can ijkin the smallest and most delicate creatures with it, as easily as witli a pocket-knife.' [I liave seen Antoine skin a gi'ound-squiiTel with this ponderous weapon, — yet it got no sharpening, except an occasional rub on some smooth stone picked up almost at random from the bed of the nearest river.] On reaching tlie top of the ridge we met ^I'Kay, then all scrambled down in the dark, and, what we hardly expected, found the liorses just where we had left them in the morning. M'Gillis had been tied, as we had less confidence in his steadiness, but though Jasper and the old mare were free and un- hobbled, they had not wandered a hundred yards from the place. ' We had a tedious and rather difficult ride liome, illumi- nated by flashes of lightning in every direction, though but feebly enlightened by the moon, new risen above the mountain ridges. At length the camp fire slione cheerily before us, and we got in just in time to finish supper before a tremendous storm of wind and rain came sweeping down the valley from the north.' Scptenihcr Sth. — ' A slight sprinkling of snow on the grcjund. Some of the men went with horses and bi-ought in the sheep killed yest(!rday, while others continued drying our store of moat over a slow fire. 'Ml HEAD OF A ROCKY MOUNTAIN RAM. (Sec p. 2.5.) T.Tpr-^rrv'T*-- IKSTITUTF • f 1 CIIAP. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 215 * There were now eight very fine heads in camp, from which I selected the following to take home : — 1. That of the ram that leaped off the rock. This was far the finest. I marked it 7, on the left horn, — for the day of the month on which I got it. 2. One sliot hy M'Kay from the top of the hill, when we came on the great herd, marked M'K. vii. 3. One shot hy myself at the same place, marked vii. 4. The fine one Antoine killed at a long running shot, marked A. VII. 5. One of those I shot on the Gth, marked VI, 6. The one brought into camp by Munroe on the 5th, marked M. v. These are all remarkably good heads. [The dimensions of the heads in inches are as follows : — Length following curve. No. 1. 38| Cirrumference at of horn. 15 loot Distance from point to point. 21| 2. 33 m 17 3. 32; 14 16 4. 34| 14 lf)l 5. 32^ 14 16 G. 33" 14 ,^^ The length of No. 1, it will be observed, is not less than 38| inches, the circumference at the base 15 inches. This is an immensely large head. Captain Palliser speaks as follows of the horns of the Mountain Eam : — " I have measured some that curved more than usual, as much as 32 inches in length, the hollow part is capable of containing two quarts of water, and is 23 [? 13] inches in circumference at the orifice." {Solitary Rambles of a Hunter in tJie Prairies, 1853, p. ?,19.) Sir John Eichardson, in his description of the animal, states the length of the horn of a specimen in the British Museum to be 34 inclies, circumference at base 13 inches, distance from tip of one hoi'n-to.tip-*f other, 27 [? l7] inches. {Faun. Bor.-Aj,}ji.yo\. i.,p. 274.) ..Mjlj". Kane, however, mentions a head seen \xy liim wheu ! li I 'I ¥ ■ ; im ; ■ i! i ■M 1-' ! ' ! » = 216 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CHAP. XIII. Ill ; .' ! i I of my ram — " I made a sketch of a ram's head of an enormous size ;' liis horns . . . measured 42 inches in length." (Wanderings of an Artist among the Indians, 1859, p. 345.) This must have been a very exceptional animal, mine being so greatly the best head out of six chosen from those of more than a dozen old rams, shot in a district long free from dis- turbance, where the finest sheep were likely to be congregated.] All these heads reached Scotland safely, except No. G, of which I have only a single horn, the rest of it having been torn from the pack-saddle during our marches through the rough fir-woods. I also brought home a number of the best skins, which had been carefully marked at the same time with the heads. [I did not look back on the previous day's shooting with unmingled pleasure. There was too nuich slaughter, and conscience rather reproached me, prompting various reflec- tions, which found j)lace at some length in my journal ; the pa^e, however, is altogether obliterated, except tliese few ex- pressions at the end: — 'Yesterday's shooting was successful enough, especially as regards my chief object — fine heads ; and a man who travels thousands of miles for such troi)hies may be excused for taking part in one day's rather reckless slaughter. After all, there were not more than twelve killed, and a few wounded, out of a very large herd, which perhaps may never again be alarmed by the sight of man.' I might have added, that all the meat was required for use, so that nothing was wasted but two or three of the more distant carcases. Still there is something rei»ugniint to the feelings in carry- ing death and anguish on so large a scale amongst l)eautil'ul inoffensive animals. One thinks little — too little — of the killing of small game, but in shooting large game the butchery of the act comes more home, (tnc sees with such vividness tlie CHAP. XII!. AND NORTH RRTIR CAMPS. 217 wounds, and the fear, and the suffering. But it does not do to look at things too narrowly, — one gi'ows morhid, — and no thinking will ever bring one to the root of the matter. Nevertheless, I woidd that those foolish boys who pride themselves on making long shots, and pour their pellets so freely, in these days of rapid loading, into the bodies of birds and beasts out of all reasonable range — I would that they might be persuaded to serious reflection, in regard to the pain and lingering misery they so needlessly inflict on God's harmless creatures.] The mist, which had been gathering all day, broke into a regular snow-storm as the evening came on, but not .before the men had packed a great deal of dried meat, besides shoeing several of the horses. In ground of this rocky nature the fore-feet of the horses require to be shod, to preserve them Ljm breaking ; in the plains, it is their hind- feet that need shoes, because the hoofs, worn and polislied by the crisp grasses, slip about as if on ice, unless furnished with some iron hold-fast. September Qth. — * The snow-storm has lasted all night, and all day, though now towards evening it is lessening. The mountains are blotted out in mist, the hills are white, except where dark rocks project through the surface, and the ground is covered many inches deep with snow. ' The men seem happy in their large tent, singing jolly songs ; and I am not uncomfortable in mine, warmly clothed, a great fire of pine-logs blazing before me, and Shakespeare dividing the time with great meals of mountain mutton, fol- lowed by pipes of that excellent tobacco which the Company so benignautly supplies. 'And yet — "surgit ainari ali(pud" — though tlic Ixtdy may be at ease, the mind will feel restless uiid bereave its quieter compiuiion of comtort. ^^'t. % W:- :', ■AM i I'i-; '■'I ! u h 'i m i,il 218 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CJIAI'. XIII. 'To be storm-staid for an indefinitely long time in the heart of the Eocky Mountains, with winter stealing on apace, and a long and difficult journey before one, is not an en- couraging prospect. Nor, disguise it as one may, is it very enlivening to sit, with wet feet, under a thin canvas covering that does not quite exclude the keen north wind. Then the day is endurable, but those weary nights — now, alas, tliose long nights — that is the time of woe. ' Nevertheless, it is better to be cold and aching under a tent in the wilderness, than to be feverish and nervous in a warm house at home. All is for the best. Nothing is ruin- ously bad for a man but that enervate wallowing in luxury and feeble indolence, which in this world does more evil to his own being than high-handed resolute sin ; and may likewise do so in the next world, for aught we know, — for where there is strength there is always hope of its being turned to good account, while from nothingness nothing can be made ' Finished " Titus Andronicus," a most disagreeable play, only redeemed by a few fine passages, such as, — " Sweet mercy is nobility's true badge;" Titus's short speech, — "The hunt is up," and Tamora's melodious invitation to Aaron, The play bears traces of much mind-cudgeling : the poet must have been very young when he wrote it.* How inferior the commonplace fiend Aaron, to that splendid villain lago ! One a mere vulgar monster, the other just such a plausible demon as any very subtle-minded man might tremble to think he himself might become, if bereft of God's aid and exposed to strong temptation. ' It is remarkable that Shakespeare often puts very noble sentiments into the mouths of the most evil characters, — as Tamora in the lines — " Sweet morcy ; " and lago, constantly, * Most of this play is certainly not by Shakespeare. X i: OHAV, XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 219 — perhaps to bring them closer to the standard of ordinary- humanity, and to show that they had once known the right though now they did the wrong, that they had passed into guilt through paths of self-deception and conscience-harden- ing, not rushed inevitably into it through the resistless force of destiny or the sudden coercion of some higher power.' September 10th. — The morning broke clear and fine, and the powerful sun soon melted the snow in the lower regions. Taking M'Kay and Antoine, I rode down the valley in search of the grisly bear ; but could see nothing of him, though we went a long way exploring the woods and back-lying glens. As the case was evidently hopeless, I left my men, who seemed anxious to explore the track we were likely to follow on moving camp next day, and set out alone for the top of one of the ridges that led up to the highest part of the grand range itself, thinking I might thus gain the summit of some peak, and discover what lay beyond the valley that had hitherto bounded our view. I had a long and hard climb to begin with, and then a succession of difficult climbs over the numerous rocky walls that obstructed me as I slowly made my way along the ridge. There was still a good deal of snow on the high ground, although gradually melting, and this proved helpful in many places, as it was firm enough to give a foothold where the stones were loose and unsteady. At length I got close to the foot of the great principal cliff at the top of the mountain ; but there found myself stopped by a small but excessively steep and difficult rock, which stood right in the path, where the sharply-cut ridge was at its narrowest, flanked also on either side by a tremendous precipice coated with layers of sheet ice. Twice I tried this rocky barricade, but it was quite impassable, unless by scrambling round it, where, though less steep, it partly ovcrliung the precipice ; but even there it was very difficult, and ¥\ k m ♦ I ' I : 220 MEDICINE TENT RIVER CHAP. XIII. a fall involved certain death. Besides, a still worse place awaited me farther on ; so I reluctantly yielded to necessity, and turned away — owning myself vanquished, for, except a single peak, I had seen nothing on the farther side of the valley's barrier. When a long way on the downward course, — which, con- trary to one's usual experience among rocks, was easier than the ascent, — I discovered that I had left my rifle behind, having laid it at the foot of a steep little crag, where both hands were required, and this having happened near the top, it cost me half my work again to repair the unlucky forgetfulness. 'Owing to this delay, night overtook me before I had even reached the pine-woods in the valley that lay between me and the camp, and in consequence I had one of the most disagreeable walks imaginable. The distance nmst have been four or five miles, and mostly uphill ; there were rocks to descend and streams to cross ; the woods were much obstructed with fallen timber and deep rough water-courses, and the opener spaces were filled with thick brush. There was no path, and though the moon had risen, the spruces cast such a shade as to cause almost total darkness ; added to this I was very tired, for the day had been hot and my toils severe ; besides, at every moment I expected to stumble upon the grisly bear, whose very domain I was traversing, and against whom I should have had no chance, as the light was not sufficient for shooting. ' Several times I fired off my rifle, in reply to shots from the camp intended for my guidance, but the echoes made these exchanges of signals useless, and it was not till within a mile of home that M'Kay and jNIunroe met me with horses, having at last discovered my direction. ^Most heartily glad was 1 t(j find myself on the back of a horse — no easy-chair is so good a rest for a man tired out with walking,- and this ■4 J II f'liAr. XIII. AND NORTH RIVER CAMPS. 221 short ride, and an excellent supper, with plenty of tea, com- pletely refreshed me and put all to rights. *I have gained little by my hard climb, except making out perfectly the run of the valleys in which wo are. There are two main valleys, — that which we left on the Gth, and that in which is our present camp ; the former running N.W., the other S.E. ; the Medicine Tent Eiver, an Athabasca head-water, running down the first, the North Iliver, a Saskatchosvan head-water, going down the second ; the hill on which we jdaced the monument standing exactly at the central point where the two descents divide. ' All the mountains appear to be most precipitous on their eastern and northern sides, the greater number looking as if strong west winds had bent their peaks, giving them a set like trees exposed to the force of a prc\alent gale. * The rocks over which I climbed to-day, when going along the ridge, were nearly all different in m .erial, some being broken in sharp edges, others ragged like coarse white coral, others formed of thin layers of a black, slaty- looking stone, which crumbled in the hand. I came upon a large tract of this last kind in descending one of the slopes, and found, mixed up with the broken shingle, heavy round stones varying in size from a 28 lb shot to a billiard ball ; some of them whole and lying half buried, but most of them broken, and showing themselves to be composed of thin layers of black stone, enclosing a yellowish substance— orange towards the centre — like some sort of ore. I also found many broken Encrinites. ' The country through which the North Eiver passes after leaving this hoight-of-land valley, appears to be another val- ley, so large and wide that it would be called a plain were it not entirely covered with dense pine-wood.' , 1 ' . ,1 ]■; ) 1 i{ =■ ii^ I ■ V- '% i J i CHAPTER XIV. NORTH IlIVEU CAMP TO KOOTANIE PLAIN. Sunday, September llth. — 'This being a very fine warm day we moved our camp, and, after making a short march, halted on tlie Nortli Kiver, opposite to a magnificent rock, resembling the bastion of some giant's castle. Two slopes proceeding from the debris at its foot were covered with small pines, those on the one flourishing and erect, those on the other mostly beaten down and broken : the whole scene suggested an assault on a fortress, up a jjracticablo breach, — troops advancing steadily and in good order to the attack, and troops hurled backwards in ruin and confusion.' * As we passed the foot of a glen, down which a little stream pursued its way, we observed an immense flight of "Painted Lady" butterflies ;•[• they were hovering about in hundreds, or settling on the young firs that grew on the sandy ground in a sheltered sunny spot, their gay wings making a pretty contrast with the dark green colour of the trecf. We noticed the tracks of a boar near the same jdace. Not * To tliis grand rocky mass I have given tlie name of Mouiif Dalliousie, in memory of a much hunented friend — the lltli f]arl of tiiat title (more ex- tensively known as Lord Panmure), — at whose house my journey to America was first suggested. t Having but little knowledge of entomology, I cannot be certain if these butterflies were the "Cynthia Cardui," or another variety of s-^niewhat similar appearance. I am inclined to think they were the " Cyntliia lluntera" — Belle Dame Jc VAvUrique. Richardson, — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. iii. pp. xi., and 295. Mokkis, — British Ballrrflies, p. 76, third edition. , .;i ■-r!i iM I" J 224 NORTH niVER CAMP CHAI', XtV. * It was very lino to hcliokl tlic moon riHi'iij.; '/mu iKiiind this enormous mass, which reniaiiu'd in ahsoliito blackness, whilo all things olso wore tonchud with silver li<;ht. .lust before she emerged, a large, soft-looking meteor fell from the sky directly above ns, and slowly floated avvay towards the south. ' The moon was fidl, and cncireled by a ring of orange and yellow ; she floated in the midst of intiumorable small lle(!cy clouds, which wandt'red across a sky of tlie intonscst blu((. This cloud-formed prevalence of mottled gn^y covered the southern heaven, and ended in an arch, exact as the rainl)ow, ])assing through Corona IJorealis a!id just enclosing (Jygnus and Pegasus. Beyond this line, to the north, the clouds wens dark, and only percejjtible from the abscmce of the stars they obscured. As night advanced the region of white cloud grew less, and hori/ontul streaks of light, like the Aurora, appeared beneath the polar star.' Siptc'inhcv Villi. — We crossed the river and for a short time ascended its course, then marched back the way we came, as Antoine fancied we should not be able to find an outlet at the end of the valley. When we had gone a long way down stream, it ai>peared that he was ([uite ignorant of this part of the country, and had no better reason for doubting our former track, than the discovery of certain marks on the trees, which seemed to denote that Indians had recently preceded us, and then turned back. [There was a sudden halt ; Antoine, ^lunroe, and ]\['Kay began to hold a council, and showed signs of doubt as to the proper road. It displeased me to find that our long counter- march was likely to prove fruitless, especially as everything that day had been done without reference to my o]»inion. Ikighlly or wrongly, I .suspected an intention to leave the \i ' CItAl'. XIV. TO KOOTANIE I'LAIN. 225 .'tiling nioimtains by tho easieat and pluiuost road, iii.stnad of explor- ing the finer and loas-traversod i-oules, according to jny fro(inontly expressed desirt\ Perhaps there was no such deli- berate intention, but various circunistancea had lat(dy indi- cated that influences opposed to my own were at work, ])articularly the constant discussions going on in Crco, of which, from knowing a few words hero and there, I often guessed the purport] 'I was very angry — things having been done without consulting nie — so instantly turned my horse, and rodo back alone through the woods, till I came to the place where we had crossed the river. As there was no proper track, I had some difficulty in finding tho way, but got to my point all right, and after a while tho rest came up.' [About this time I discovered, in conversation with M'Kay, that Munroo felt aggrieved, thinking that I had slighted him in the office of guide — which he then considered himself to bo filling, though I had not so supposed it, — by once or twice refusing to camp at places designated by him for that purpose. I pointed out to M'Kay, that though in ordinary cases the guide was the proper person to settle camp arrangements, my sport and pleasure were the objects of the present journey, and that while fully believing in Munroe's com- petency to choose the best camping-places, I sometimes pre- ferred inferior sites, on account of the beauty of the scenery. M'Kay, who had been inclined to sympathise with his fellow- guide, at once understood me, and doubtless satisfied Munroe, for cordiality seemed quite restored.] 'After dinner we continued our march, and a weary one it was. The river was so Hooded that we were obliged to keep a high lino, over a succession of steep ridges with deep Q 1BT3 ■ ' I 226 NORTH RIVER CAMP CHAP. XIV. i ■ hollows between, tlie whole of which were covered with burnt and fallen pines lying about in the most obstructive manner. Nothing can exceed the discomfort of passing over such a country, especially when the ground is soft and miry. 'The larger lying-pines tear and wound the horses, and keep them perpetually jumping, for the obstacles are too great to be stepped over ; the smaller ones meet you like chevaux- de-frises placed at every angle, some pointing towards your face, others at your legs or your horse's stomach ; and, being dry, hard, and sharp, they pierce like spears when met directly, or tear your knees and hands if yr-- merely rub against them. * Nothing but leather is a defence. I often felt as if in one of tlie tournaments of old, as these lances of the forest splintered against my buff jerkin and nearly drove me oat of the saddle, or, artistically aimed at the head, lifted my *' beaver" off, sometimes well-nigh treating me to Absalom's fate.' 'Yesterday "Mission Cendre," the large roan horse I bought from the missionaries at St. Ann, one of my best, got a severe stab under the thigh, and was hardly able to go on, and to-day one of the Edmonton horses came to his end in a very singular manner. At dinner time we observed him to be looking dull and not feeding, but there seemed so litthj the matter that when we started Lai^race rode him as usual. He went fairly enough till beginning to climb a steep hill, when he showed signs of sluggishness, as we thought it, and his rider urged him on ; suddenly he stopped, sank down, and lay to all appearance lifeless. In a little while he raised his head and gazed around with a pei'plexed and anxious air, then uttered three piercing neigii.j, the strangest I ever heard, turned heavily on his side, and died. M'Kay attempted r. CHAP. XIV. TO KOOTANIE PLAIN. 227 to bleed him, but no blood would flow, and the death-glaze came over his eyeballs. On opening him we found his lungs diseased and his kidneys inflamed ; his blood was very thin, except about the heart, where it was thick and clotted. The other horses seemed scared ; many of them would not pass near the dead body. ' After another hour's struggling we halted, and camped on an island of the North Eiver, not having made more than three miles' progress on this unlucky day. * Lightning was flashing in the heavens at nightfall, and dense clouds floated over all the sky ; we prepared for a storm, but there only came a slight shower.' September IMIi. — Our start was delayed by a long search for two of the horses, which, being at last found, we pursued our way S.S.W. up the North Eiver, and rode forward at a pretty good pace, thoug hsome parts of the track were full of obstructions. 'Late in the evening, while preparing to camp, we saw some white goats high up among the cliffs. (They are true goats, though often spoken of as sheep, and seem to frequent steeper precipices than the grey sheep.) 'Late as it was, Antoine and I went after them, and climbed some places I should not have liked to venture on alone, though a tolerably practised climber in my own country. Night cume on as we reached the top of the ridge ; the goats had in-^ved out of sight ; and nothing svas left but to make oiu' way down i '-e valley, — and hard work it was. There was just light enough vj -ee a few yards in front, but not sufficient to discover where the descent was safe, except by actual experiment. We crept carefully along the face of the cliff", sometimes staggering in loose shingle, sometimes finding our footing as best we could in the steeper places. ' Several times we fancied we had hit on a good way to get m f'l '> t Hi 228 NORTH RIVER CAMP OHAP. XIV. '■in down, but it always ended in what Antoine called " un roclier conpe " — otherwise, a precipice. Even he began to think we should have to pass the night there (like flies on a wall) — I had for long been expecting nothing better — but Providence directed us at last to a gentler slope, by which we descended in safety to the valley level, read ing camp barely in time to shelter from a heavy fall of rain. Melancholy and depressed, — from fatigue I suppose, pud from having been so long in fear for my life while among the cliffs in the darkness.' September lijth. — * Bitterly cold night, rain till near dawn ; then hard frost, tents and oil-cloths sheeted with ice. The sun takes very long to rise in these deep valleys, being obstructed by the mountains, which stand like walls on either side. Till he shows himself there is a vault-like chill in the air, but as soon as his rays surmount the barrier the heat becomes oppressive. * We continued our march up the valley, along a beautiful level track by the river-side, but, as afterwards ajipeared, we ouglit to have turned to the left up a creek which was hardly noticed at the time, none of tlie men knowing this part of the country. Lagrace had a general idea of the road, but he found himself at fault when we suddenly came to a mountain which stood right across our path, apparently forbidding far- ther progress, tor it was no better thon a chaos of rocks and great broken stones, past which the stream, now very small, ruslied l)y in a deep and impassable channel. ' Leaving the rest to wait his return, Lagrace scrambled up the mountain to search for a pass, while, with the same object, I set out in .'mother direction, followed by Whisky, — who has a mania for climl)ing, though he squeaks on coming to the difficult places ; — and, taking my rifle with me, T was re- warded for a very hard walk by shooting a ptarmigan — or at ■ i CHAP. XIV. TO KOOTANIE PLAIN. 229 least a bird exactly like one. There was a covey of thcni seated on the hare top of a rocky hill, and when disturbed they flew round the knob and alighted at a short distance. I missed my second shot, — which at dinner next day I rather lamented, recognising a true grouse flavour in the bird, which made it very superior to the tasteless "partridge," of the pine-forests.* ' On returning, I found that M'Kay had got all the horses to the top of the hill by a path that seemed quite impracticable, for it was not only exceedingly steep, but composed of very sharp many-cornered blocks, much the size of a cart, lying at different levels, — near one another, but sufficiently apart to leave great deep holes between, where knife-like smaller stones did not fill the openings, ' At the summit was a nearly perpendicular tvall of hard frozen snow, about twenty feet liigh. Steps were cut, and the horses dragged up with ropes. They ascended witliout acci- dent, except Blond, who slipped on a sheet of ice just as he got to the top, and fell to the bottom, crushing our pots and kettles, but damaging himself very little, as his packs saved him. Eowland positively refused to go up, so he was taken a long way round, and the men carried his packs up the icy stair.' [I did not see the iiors'-- • taken up, but was at the place immediately afterwards, whii.. they v>'ere stUl there. It was an almost incredible fer.t, though perhaps less really wonderful than the previous ascent of the hill among the separated blocks of stone.] ' We now saw before us a flat gravel-covered valley entirely * Tetrao (Lagopus) Mutus. The Ptminigan. Richakdson, — Faun. Bor.' Am., vol. ii. p. 350. lu the sa? .e work, Sir John speaks of the extreme rarity of specimens, stating that he never liimself met with this variety in the fur-countries. As far as a non-scientilic observer inrty judge, 1 am certain that the bird shot by nic was identical with the Scotch ptarn'^jan. ! ^^nlp ' ■ f'^' i'111 4: -IIP ill li ! 230 NORTB RIVER CAMP CHAP. XIV. enclosed by mountains, the sides of tliose farthest off bearing great masses of snow, among which the river took its rise, flowing onwards in several shallow channels. Near the snow on our left (that is, towards the eastern side) appeared a lower ridge, and this was our only hope, for unless fortunate enough to pass over it and arrive at some other valley, we had no choice but to go back, losing several days and all the heavy toil of men and horses. ' The ridge, though steep, was in time ascended, and to our great joy there was a practicable road down a watercourse on the other side ; but we long remained in suspense, being only able to see our way step by step, and always dreading that " uu rocher coupe " might blight our prospects. No difficulties, however, existed, and by evening we found ourselves com- fortably encamped at the side of a mountain stream which evidently flowed towards the Saskatchewan, the direction in which we had intended to travel. ' There were several very old remains of an Indian encamp- ment where we halted, but I doubt if any human being ever came to the place by our road ; certainly no white man ever did. ' Going along the valley I shot three siffleurs, but two of them rolled into their holes and could not be recovered. We saw and heard numbers of the little marmots peculiar to these mountains. They are of the size of a rat and the shape of a guinea-pig, their colour is grey-green, their cry a complaining whine.' * * This variety I believe to be exceedingly rare out of its own limited district. 1 am inclined to identify it with a pe(;uliar little animal described by Sir John Richardson — licpiis (Lagomys) Princeps,— r^r LUUe-Chicf Hnre : Buckathra Kah-ynwxtc — Indians. Length of head and body 6 inches !» lines. " On the approach of a man, it utters a feeble cry, like the squeak of a rabbit when hurt." KicuAiinsoN, — Faxm. Bor.-Am., vol. i. p. 227. • CHAP. XIV. TO KOOTANIE PLAIN. 231 [1 was afterwards given at one of the Forts (I rej^vet to have forgotten which) an Indian robe composed of tlie skins of a small animal of the marmot species. The robe niefisures 80 inches by 69, and contains 105 complete skins, besides twenty, which have been moic or less cut to fill in- terstices in the pattern, — 125 distinct pieces in all. The largest skins are 10 inches long, though a little shortened in squaring them into convonient shape, so that, adding 3 inches for the head, the animal would seem to have been about 13 inches in length, exclusive of the tail. The tails measure about 4 inches, and hang loose upon the surface, combining with small strips of skin along the various seams to form a succession of crrious ornamental fringes. The skins vary in colour from brown to silver-grey along the back, which is mottled all over witli little whitish spots. The stomach and lower parts are of a yellowish grey, sometimes almost approaching to pale orange. In size and colouring the animal appears to correspond with an inhabitant of the northern part of the fur-countries — " Arctomys (Spermophilus) Parryi. — Parrijs Marmot. SecJc-secJc — Esquimaux. TJkk- thiny {Rock-hadfjer) — Chipewyans." ItlciiARDSON', — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. p. 158.] Scpteniber IQfh. — The horses were very much fatigued with yesterday's work, for, besides their toil, they ha-i had nothing to eat till evening, so we settled to give them half a day to rest and recruit. Availing myself of the interval, I went out with Antoine to look for sheep. We almost immediately saw some fine old rams, but they discovered us, and made their escape to the 'opposite mountain, stringing up a vast and nearly per- pendicular wall of glittering rock, along invisible patlis where no liuman foot could follow. Soon afterwards, observing six 1* 232 NORTH RIVER CAMP CHAP. XIV. ewes on the top of a detached crag, we climbed round the face of it till we got within shot, and were fortunate enough to kill all but one of the number — three falling to my rifle and two to Antoine's, — which furnished us with a welcome supply of fresh meat, for there was not a fortnight's dry provision in camp. One of tiie sheep was struck by my shot while running from us in a direct line ; on receiving the bullet she threw her hind-legs straight into the air, and danced for half-a- minute on her forelegs, in what seemed a scarcely possible altitude, ' The men were busy to-day in mending their moccasins. Those soft shoes [leather socks one might call them] are very comfortable in dry, hot weather, but moisture soaks through tUeni in an instant, and, though they do admirably for level ground, I fnid Lhem slii>pery on the hill, and ro pi'otection against stones and thorns. When the weather is cold they are bad wear for horseback, as one's feet get chilled in the stirrups. But for a pair of nailed shooting-boots, I could not have got along at all in the mountains, which are more covered with sharp stones than any ground I have seen in Scotland. Even my men, accustomed to nothing but moccasins, are constantly bruising and cutting their feet ; they sometimes wear out a new pair of soles in a few hours. ' The best moccasins are made of moose leather : red-deer {wapiti) is very soft, but too thin ; buffalo is exceedingly poor both in look and quality. They are generally made in three pieces; c-.t for i>ing tlie slipper that encloses the foot; anotlier coverin :; the instep, ruMning upAvards in a tongue over tlie front -f the ankle, and linished in a semi-oval at the lower end ; the tliird wrapping round the ankle, concealing the upper j)art of the second piece, and tied sandal-fashion ! 1 (J CHAP. XIV. TO KOOTANIE PLAIN. 233 with a strip of tliin leather passed through eyelets round the heel. The part that comes over the instep is usually covered with red, blue, or white cloth, and ornamented with em- broidery in beads or dyed horse-hair. In Ecd Eivcr this part is made much larger, and lower over the foot, than in Saskatchewan; generally, also, the toe is less pointed, and the ankle-covering less liigh. ' The embroidering of men's moccasins witli flower patterns is not to be commended, it has a tawdry, effeminate appear- ance ; but, indeed, I have seldom seen any bead-embroidery of good taste, except among the pure Indians, who, for such work, prefer geometrical devices to imitations of natural objects. *It is singular how invariably the ai;t-instinct of the primitive savage guides him to that correct judgment which civilised nations only attain (if they do attain it) after centuries of thought and experiment, — as youth loses the grace of childhood without for many years acquiring the stately comeliness of maturity. So in religion, also, the child instinctively knows those truths, which, lost amidst a lifetime of reasonings and controversy, old age sometimes regains ; — as in the case of John Wesley, who after trying Ritualism, Mysticism, and Moravianism, and devising a new system of his om'u, during all which processes he strenuously battled against those who did not accept his most recently adopted creed, yet in his old age saw the vanity and vexation of such janglings, and tlius expressed himself : — " I am sick of opinions — my soul loathes this frothy food." [The whole passage runs thus : — " I am sick of opinions : I am weary to bear them : my soul loathes this frothy food, Give me solid and substantial rcliyion : give me an humble lover of God and man : a man full of nirvcv and good faith laying ' 234 NORTH RIVER OAMP ciiAr. XIV. himself out in the work of faith, the patience of hope, the labour of love. Let my soul be with these Christiana, where- soever they are, and of whatsoever opinion they are of," — SouTHEY, — TAfc of TV csley, vol. ii. p. 94. 3d edition.] ' Is Europe beginning to draw near this ripening of judg- ment ? There are some signs of it. Were Christ to come again, would he not, as once before, take a little child and set him in our midst ? ' September l7th. — Tiie niglit was cruelly cold : it was almost impossible to sleep. Breakfasting early, we made our way down a wild and rugged glen, along which we toiled till evening without rest or food, confined mostly to the bed of a torrent so stony as to hurt the horses' feet : our direction tended always to the south-east. At length we arrived at the valley's end, where the water escaped through a long, narrow, deep gorge of rock, then crossed the slioulder of a mountain covered with lying-wood, and finally camped near the Saskatchewan, half-a-dnv from Kootanie Plain.* — ' The valley we have left is enclosed on the east by a precipitous wall of mountains of a pearly grey colour, com- posed of a hard stone lying in layers, like slates cut diamond shape and plac .-^ ;»at side outwards, so tliat the cliff is scored with parallel jagged lines. The leng h of this mountain barrier seems to be about ten miles, its height perhaps two thousand feet [above the stream] ; in many places it is nearly perpendicular, and the summit forms a continuous serrated line. ' Saw traces of bears all along, but the beasts keep them- selves out of sight. The wind was excessively cold ; — I felt * If mpmory does not doeive ne, it was in a small strip of wood near this camp that some of my men saw a Flying-Squirrel. Ptcromys Sabrinus. var. ^. Alpiiins. — Rocky Mountain Flying-Squiirel. Richardson, — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. p. 195. ..,v . if M Lord, Southm^'m routa VUBeym for 0ie Artt tbne tafHaned.. Xlti.%'iUtm»K^, Eibwa^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 tii !r 140 20 14 III 1.6 <% > ^ '} / V /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) a72-4503 /' y / V \ e\ ^ 'fir' rcMsat CHAP. XIV. TO KOOTANIE PLAIN. 235 haK dead with hunger besides, having eaten nothing all day. At supper I astonished myself, consuming at least three pounds of fried sheep : Toma could not cook the slices quick enough. — ' Finished that noble play " The Merchant of Venice." Had there been a fair tribunal, and another " second Daniel " to take Shylock's part, I think the Jew would have come better out of it. It was mere quibbling to make him guilty of attempting the life of a citizen. You do not attempt a man's life by accusing him before a court of justice of a capital crime, in the same sense as by stabbing him with a dagger. 'Are we to understand that Shylock, Judas-like, com- mitted suicide when he left the court ? There is something peculiar in his exclamation, " I am not well." A man of his stern character would have scorned to acknowledge any feeling of illness at such a time, unless he intended to end illness and health alike by ending his life. Besides, he would never really have consented to become a Christian, and his ready acceptance of that condition showed that he meant to break it, — and for that there was but one way.'* Sunday, Sfipiemher 18th. — We marched a few miles, in a southerly direction, up the course of the North Saskat- chewan, and halted at Kootanie Plain. This so-called plain is merely an inconsiderable enlargement of the valley, — a space of 'some fifty acres, bare of trees, and covered with short prairie grasses.' * See Appendix. ^ 1 hi- i'^ 1 i'f ^lii :f^•l i"*' . J jfiil "■*:' * M CHAPTER XV. KOOTANIE PLAIN TO OLD BOW FORT. September lUh—HhQ river Saskatchewan, though here not far from its source, is about forty yards in width, wherever it flows in a single channel, and so deep that we were obliged to cross it on rafts. While the ferrying went on, I ascended the mountains with Antoine in search of white goats ; we saw none, however, but fell in with a number of female sheep, one of which I shot without much trouble ; it was a very fine ewe, fat and well-conditioned, though in milk. The crossing safely effected, we travelled along a broad track up the river, but discovering, after having followed it a good many miles, that it was leading us out of our proper course, we returned, and camped in the dark near our place of departure. There was a high wind from the south, and towards night- fall rain came on, September 20ih. — ^A cold showery day. We succeeded in finding the .right Bow Eiver road ; it passed not far from the mountains that form the north side of the valley which runs eastward from opposite Kootanie Plain, and proved to be an excellent track, leading over hard ground through a long extent of thick fir-woods. There vv > traces of recent travellers, whom we supposed to have ;n Americans going to the Columbia, — said to be not more than three days' march from this neighbourhood. Matheson, who had lately had an attack of pains and i „9ix » / i m0vu mK it i ; '■^>^- CHAP. XV. KOOTANIE PLAIN TO OLD BOW FORT. 237 sickness, was now quite recovered, some of my simple reme- dies perfectly meeting his case, but to-day another man was taken ill,- -our interpreter, Piskan Munroe. He was seized with violent cramps in the stomach, a complaint he had suffered from before, and, without consulting any one, was rash enough to prescribe for himself, swallowing a whole charge of gunpowder mixed with water, which he declared had formerly done him good. As he seemed in great agony, bending with groans over his horse's neck when the fits attacked him, I decided on an early halt, though only half our usual day's march had been accomplished. Candles now becoming scarce, Toma manufactured one for me ; it was composed of sheep-fat run into a mould of stout cartridge paper, and burned remarkably well, nearly equalling wax in the clearness of its flame. A very high gale arose from the south, the quarter whence wind and rain generally appeared to come. Several tracks of moose were seen near the road-sides. September 21st. — 'Munroe better. Off early, and made a long march up the valley, at first through thick woods clear of liallen timber, then over a country scantily dott°,d with trees, till we arrived at the height-of-land which divides the water- sheds of the Saskatchewan and Bow rivers. There was a small rain all the morning, and when we got up to the high table- laud this drizzle changed into a regular snowstorm. * It was very weary work crossing miles of bleak open moor, with not a tree in sight, and only enough of the sur- rounding rocks and mountains visible through the mist to show how much noble scenery was being lost to me for ever. For ever ! That is too strong a word ; who can tell what powers of travel may be vouchsafed to the spirit after death V [A page or two continuing this subject are obliterated.] r-i ■*> i ' ' '■ ! I \ ■M d 1 <\ ii ; ,1- lb!: '\ Wt m ii u p s 238 KOOTANIE PLAIN CHAP. XV. '' * Camped for the night a short way down the course of a stream that runs into the Bow River. Numerous traces of bears ; the earth was absolutely ploughed up in large patches where they had been digging for roots. Shot two " partridges " with the rifle, and missed two. ' One of the Carlton horses failed, and was left on the road.' September 22d. — ' Snow and sleet all night, continuing all the morning. We are now reduced to very simple fare, as the whole of the flour is finished. Dried sheep-meat (getting mouldy), pemmican, and tea, are all we have. Thank God ! ) we have enough, and after the stomach is filled it matters little what has filled it, if only the food were wholesome. ' On coming to this side of the height-of-land, where the waters begin to flow east and south, I observe the larch again, a tree we have not seen since passing a few near Lake St. Ann. Here th((|r grow on both sides of the valley, chiefly at a higher level than the spruce, which, in turn, grows higher up than the Scotch fir. These larches do not show the droop- ing habit of the kindred tree at home, but grow more in the cedar form, with branches that are horizontal or tending upwards. Their foliage is now of a bright pale yellow, which contrasts effectively with the dark green of the firs.' September 2Zd. — After marching a few miles we arrived at an open spot by the river, and camped there early, as I wished to devote the rest of the day to hunting for white goats, being anxious to get some specimens of those scarce and very wary animals. The morning was unpromising when An- toine and I set out on our hunt ; storms of sleet went drifting by, and a thick mist enveloped the snow-clad mountains ; never- theless we persevered, climbed several steep hills, and ex- plored many likely places, but all in vain. Towards evening we saw a band of grey sheep, and re- # Z' CHAP. XV. TO OLD BOW FORT. 239 l^'t solved to go after them, as there was no further chance of goats. It cost us a hard climb to get within range, but they took the alarm and only offered us awkward running chances, of which we made nothing, though perhaps I ought to have killed with one of my shots. In the excitement of the moment Antoine spoiled the little chance I had, by hurrying me on, and making various signs and speeches, before it was possible for me to see the sheep. ' A stalker should remember two things — 1st, That, as he goes in front of the person he is guiding, he must generally (uphill always) see the animals before they are visible to the other man, and ought therefore to bear with some slow- ness on the part of his companion in seeing what he points out the moment it meets his own view. ' 2dly, That most people are slightly nervous on coming in after a long stalk, and out of breath besides, so that excited demonstrations at such times do the greatest harm. ' The best plan is quietly to beckon your companion for- ward — quickly or slowly according to circumstances, — and in one short sentence give him any directions that may be really necessary, such as — " The large beast on the left ; " " The second from the front," — and so on.' ' Few things more show man's inherent conceit, than our habit of thinking that nothing can be done without our own valuable directions. As we marched through the plains I have often been amused to hear the whole party shouting H^ogether to any one going after prairie-fowl near the road- side : — That's the way ! No, more to your left ! There he goes behind the bush ! Shoot him now ! Not that one ! No, the other, the other ! — while the unfortunate sportsman danced about like a Highlander in a wasp's nest. ' Except with an absolute greenhorn, it is better to leave a 240 KOOTANIE PLAIN CHAP. XV. m i I man to his own judgment when tlie decisive moment comes, — particularly in rifle-shooting, where your own unaided choice of the animal to be shot greatly assists the aim, harmonising the nerves and enabling you to shoot exactly at the right moment.' After the sheep we had been firing at had moved away, Antoine observed a single ewe on a rock above us. I climbed to within fair distance, and wounded her severely, too low, however, and far back, so she had strength to run a long way over some very rough and broken ground. Tracking her by the blood spots — clear red circles on the chalky stones, — I followed to the very summit of the height, where the gradual upward slope abruptly stopped at a tremendous over- hanging precipice, which formed the other side of the mountain. The sheep was not to be seen, but looking carefully over the brink, I discovered her standing on a narrow ledge a few yards beneath me ; there was no way to approach nearer, so I gave her a finishing shot, on receiving which she rolled off the plat- form, and, falling many hundreds of feet, dropped upon the rocks and ice in the desolate abyss below. Thinking all was over, I shouldered my rifle and returned to Antoine, little expecting to bring any of that wild-mutton home for supper. The stout old hunter, however, at once proposed to go for our sheep, and after a considerable round we managed to reach the place where it was lying, much cut and broken, but not spoilt for use ; then putting it on his back, he car-^ lied it for more than a mile, till we found our horses again, — no mean performance, considering the roughness of the ground and the weight of this two-year-old ewe, a beast certainly larger than a common roe-deer. September 24:th. After marching a few miles we observed AP. XV. jomes, laided I aim, Btly at . away, us. I sly, too along ing her stones, ere the IS over- 3untain. 3ver the \v yards I gave ;he plat- ipon the returned -mutton o go for aged to broken, , he car-^ ;ain, — no ground certainly observed CHAP. XV. TO OLD BOW FORT. 241 I four white goats, half-way up a rocky mountain, upon whicli I halted the brigade, and set out on foot, with Antoine, in pursuit of them. We had a very severe climb to the place where they had been seen, and then found they had gone on. Antoine followed on their track, and I kept a little higher, till we came to a deep ravine, when he suddenly stopped and beckoned to me. I came on, making all possible haste, but the rock unluckily was of broken shale, over which one cannot go fast, and I was only in time to see the white fleeces streaming off a long way below. We both fired in vain, and then rushed off to intercept them, but they gained the ridge long before we did, though running with all our might. * Never did I feel more utterly prostrated. From various causes — my long journey on horseback, bad sleep owing to the cold at night, indifferent food of late, no drink stronger th'^.n tea, sudden hard work on foot since we came to the mountains, perhaps also owing to the height, above the sea- level, of the valleys among which we were ; — I was now very weak, and only able to climb steep places slowly, and with constant rests. ' I had set my heart on getting some of these white goats ; brt we were not likely to see any of them farther on our journey, my last chance seemed gone ; I lay there on the mountain side, weary, a,imost fainting with t I'l., and very sore at heart. These goats began to seem to me like the enchanted beasts in German stories, which lure men to destruction, and then mock at their misery. Once I had nearly broken my neck, and twice nearly burst a blood-vessel, in following them, — and all in vain. A sort of frenzy came over me, and I vowed to pursue them to the death. ' We followed their track some way till it turned straight up the cliffs to the top of the mountain : Antoine then lighted H ^' ■ ■■? . f ■ - it., i! 1' U] vi 242 KOOTANIE PLAIN CHAP. XV. his pipe and prepared to descend. I proposed to go up, and he at once cheerfully consented. We had hard and dangerous work. [The cliff, which rose abruptly from a narrow ledge of shingle slanting to tremendous precipices, was exceedingly steep, and the projections on its half-decomposed surface were but small, and so loosely attached that they constantly broke at a touch.] In many places Antoine had to cut out steps with his knife in the brittle shale, and the melting snow from above rendered our footing slippeiy and unsteady, all the worae that our rifles left only one hand free. It was terrible to hear the dislodged stones falling down to unknown depths in the abyss beneath ; but the only way to climb rocks is to shut the door on fancy, and rivet the eyes and mind on the spot where one's foot is to be next planted. The toil was severe ; several times we were nearly defeated, but at length the summit of the cliff was gained. 'We then made a long ascent over broken rocks to a higher ridge, which formed the actual top of that part of the mountain, and rested there a while amidst ice and snow. Immediately beneath us a most singular view presented itself — an immensely deep, oval, crater-like hollow, of the most verdant grass, embedded in the heart of the mountain. At the bottom of it there was a beautiful lake, blue as a sap- phire, and framed in with a narrow band of firs and larches. * Alas ! the goats were not to be seen, and after a long search we began descending some steep rocks in a different direction — utterly in despair. ' When about half-way down, Antoine, who was continu- ally climbing rocks and looking about him, signed to me that something was in sight. Coming to him, I observed two of the enchanted beasts feeding below. He proposed to ascend again and come down on them, but I was quite, unable, — so long CHAP. XV. TO OLD BOW FORT. 243 wo climbed along tho face of tlio cliff on a very narrow ledge, and got within long range of the two goats, and within 120 yards of three others, which we had not seen before. ' We fired several shots, but without stopping any of them, and being so high above their level, as well as so far off, it was difficult to judge if any were wounded. At that moment the old ewe I had first shot at, confused by the echoes, came trotting back, but, having had time to reload, I rolled her over. At the same time Antoine wounded a three-year-old male, who began to rush off at a great pace, but I stopped him with a really good shot, right in the centre of the back- bone, at more than 150 yards. Both these goats unfortunately fell over some twenty feet of rock, breaking their horns and tearing great holes in their skins, but I was glad to get them on any terms. ' These animals belong to the goat tribe, and are true goats in appearance. They are rather smaller than the grey sheep, and much shorter in the leg, and larger in the feet. Their horns are straight, hard, and pointed, of a shining black, and about 6 inches long, resembling those of the chamois, only not hooked at the end. (Perhaps the old males may have longer horns. I never saw one near enough to make sure : they are certainly not very long-horned.) Their hair is long and white, and very soft ; they have beards like common goats, and the males have a strong musky smelL It is generally said that they are not good to eat, but we carried parts of them home to try, and I could perceive little difference in taste from the sheep. The old males no doubt would be uneatable.* • Capra Americana. Rocky Mountain Goat. Ovis Montana — OrJ, 1817. Antilope Lanigera — Smith, 1822. *' Long straight hair, considerably coarser than the wool of sheep, but softer than that of the common goat. . . . Under the liair of the body tliere is a close coat of fine white wool [" fully an inch and a half long"]." Richardson,— iTzuw. Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 268-270. I I ■ •« n i \n Ici I 244 KOOTANIK PLAIN cnAi*. XV. 'It was pitch (lark ])ef()ro wo gut back to camp. On arriving at the rivcr-sido we found horses waiting, which the men had brought over in answer to our sliouts. The crossing was almost amusing, there was such uncertainty as to the depths into which one's horse's next step might plunge one ; we got through, however, without accident,' Sunday, September 25th. — All night and morning there was a steady pour of rain. Our camping-place was damp and confined, so we determined to leave it at once, and marched, accordingly, till we reached the Bow River, then travelled some distance down its course. Our road ran mostly through thick forest, and towards evening it became hilly and blocked with lying-wood. Darkness came on very suddenly, and M'Kay and Mathe- son, who had stayed behind to arrange some of the packs, were unable to join us, and had to camp by thems^ilves. They were better off than we were, having the tents and l^rovision-stores with them ; but it signified little, for we managed to find sufficient food and covering, — Kline, indeed, raised me a shelter, by stretching the oil-cloth over poles, which answered quite as well as my own canvas tent. Showery, cold weather ; rain again at night. The Carlton Bichon, who had been ill some time, got worse to-day, and finally gave out. September 2Gth. — After about four miles' march we met an Assiniboine walking along the track by himself ; lie turned back with us, and soon afterwards we came to four families of the same tribe.* We halted and camped in their neigh- * A tribe of the Dacotah race, an offshoot of tlie Sioux. The mountain bands are commonly known as "Stonies," or "Stone Indians," the word Assiniboine signifying — "one who boils stones," a name referring to their ancient manner of cooking. neigh- CIIAI'. XV. TO OLD HOW FOUT. 245 bourhood ; our hope boitig to get food and horses from the Indians, — theirs, to procure annnuuition, clothes, and tobacco, in exchange, — ' I have just made the uni>leasant discovery that we have barely two days' provision in the camp. Our dried meat had become mouldy, and during my absences when hunting there has been shameful waste of our pemmican, some of the men, I am told, eating it all day long. This evil began at a time when there was so nmch fresh meat that I tool^ no notice of the constant cooking and feasting, and a general system of waste and gluttony thus crept in. Now that it was too late, I had found out our perilous situation. It was impossible to get to Edmonton under a fortnight, and, except some ducks, there was little chance of any game on the road. ' Great gloom overspread the camp. I did my be^^t to seem cheerful. I divided all the pemmican into portions — there was only enough for two days and a half — and served the tea out in allowances : for my own part, I ate some of the leg of the larger white goat brought in on Saturday. The old ewe must have reared a dozen kids at least, — tougher and drier fare I never fed on. . . . Eead " Komeo and Juliet." ' In hopes of getting assistance, we sent off the hunter we had first fallen in with to a larger cainp of his tribe, a good dis- tance away, to ask them to join us on the road. In the evening I heard the Indians singing liymns. They tire Christians, having had some teaching from Protestant missionaries, and seem to be most religious, excellent neuple.' During to-day's march we passed the site of a camp. On one of the neighbouring trees was written — " Exploring Ex- pedition. Aug. 23, 1859. Dr. Hector." September 27r c a 1> n b U -ft -D O- ^J ci •o t 0- L -A 0»' 00 CM t oe CD 2 UJ 0. Ui w U) (D uJ UJ n ;' .1 fl! '/ i,'; itr l^f-^fci-tj CUAP. XV. TO OLD BOW FORT. 261 as best they may. It grieves the heart of a lover of trees to travel through America. For hundreds and thousands of miles his eyes behold nothing but wholesale destruction of those noblest ornaments of the earth. Fire everywhere, the axe everywhere, the barking-knife and the bill-hook, — joint ravagers with the storm, the lightning, and the flood, — all busy in pulling down nature's forest handiwork — and who builds up anything in its stead ? * If the half-breed wishes to do honour to a friend, he chooses the most conspicuous tree, prunes off all its branches, and calls it Friend So-and-so's lob-stick : — thus he raises his monument. The American strips the greenery from whole provinces, then builds sawmills and log-houses, and calmly offers the exchange to the universe — like a knave who steals an Indian's horse, and offers him a bottle of rum in its place : — thus he raises his monument. * The mountains become perceptibly lower after one enters Bow vaUey, and continue to lessen in height at each succeed- ing great bend of the river, but their rocky character remains unchanged. We were still among them when evening drew on, and such a gale of wind arose from the west that we hastened to camp ourselves in the heart of a thick young wood to escape its fury.' Toma cooked me some moose-nose for dinner : — ' cartilage and fat like beaver's tail — very good.' !i ' I i I I . n :t M CHAPTER XVI. *r ?! i I <'. r r, M OLD BOW FORT TO FORT EDMONTON. * JjY mid-day we arrived at Old Bow Fort (a deserted settle- ment of the Hudson's Bay Company), all heartily glad to leave the mountains, amidst whose rugged passes we have lost three horses, and seen most of the others become walking skeletons, footsore and feeble ; where we have consumed all our provisions, and endured much unseasonable cold. . ' For my own part, I entirely share in the general joy. Grand as is the scenery of the Athabasca mountains, it has fallen short of my expectations, which looked for sky-piercing peaks and heights towering above the clouds, features by no means often discoverable even in the remoter ranges among which we travelled.' [The valleys we had passed through being some 5000 feet above the sea, the mountains, as seen from them, lose to that extent in height as well as in gran- deur of character ; thus elevations twice as great as Ben Nevis show hardly larger than the more lofty among the Scottish or English hills, while ranges far higher than the rest do not exceed 7000 to 8000 feet in apparent altitude. According to the Government Exploring Expedition, the peak immediately above Kootanie Plain (no way remarkable so far as I remem- ber) is 8913 feet high ; while, nearly opposite. Mount Miu'- chison (below which our track led us on the 21st of September) rises to a height of 15,789 feet, considerably surpassing Mont Blanc. Old Bow Fort, outside the mountains, and at the edge ill oiiAV. XVI. OLD BOW FORT TO FORT EDMONTON. 253 of the plains, is 4100 feet above the sea, nearly equalling Ben Nevis, the highest point in Great Britain.] ' Then my anticipations of sport have been greatly disap- pointed. Instead of the hundreds of grisly bears I had been led to expect, I have only seen one, and that at a distance.' [Unless disturbed in their hiding-places, bears are seldom seen except at early dawn. By knowing this I might have had better sport, for there were plenty of grislies about, to judge from their numerous tracks. I half think that my people were not zealous in the matter, dreading the risk — for me more than themselves — in a country so far from help in case of accident.] ' Instead of white goats crowning every rocky height, or reposing in herds on the sunny slopes of the lower hills, I have seen but a few scattered bands, and only got two indifferent specimens, after toil that has left me so weak that I can scarcely carry my rifle. "With the grey sheep only have I been fortunate ; and there also my success was obtained with great labour, except on two occasions. ' Every deerstalker knows the effort of climbing the first liill to get command over the ground, but be it remember-id that in these mountains merely to reach the foot of the pre- cipices is a very steep ascent of more than a mile, made doubly difficult by the roughness of the ground and the quantity of thick brush and fallen timber through which a way has to be forced. And then, towering above you, there are hundreds of feet of bare and often slippery crago, which cannot be scaled without taxing every muscle to the utter- most. On the 1st of September I entered the mountains with joy, on the 1st of October I leave them with greater joy.' [Feelings scarcely comprehended at the time — of relief at throwing off a leaden bondage, of warmth and brightness, of life and joy and freedom — were swelling in every heart. There \ 'it ;| lltil i ■' l! h I t . ,, I 254 OLD BOW FORT CHAP. XVI. is something appalling in the gloom of the deep mountain valleys which had so long been our home, confined within tremendous barriers of unmitigated rock, — a gloom most horrible when storms and mists prevail, and not altogether absent when the sun is pouring down wide floods of cheerful- ness. Words cannot describe the desolation of the cold grey dawn in these rock-bound valleys, when heavy frost grapples the whole face of the earth, and nothing stirs with a full and energetic vitality except invisible creeping chills. The very mass and vastness of the mountains depress and daunt the soul ; scarcely can you look up at the blue sky without some portentous object sternly frowning-down your gaze. You feel yourself imprisoned under some mighty ogre's sway ; the unassailable, prodigious potencies that beset you all around crush out your courage, "o'ercrow your spirit" quite. In leaving the mountains, we seemed to me to resemble the band of travellers in The Pilgrim's Progress, making their glad escape from Doubting Castle, the stronghold of that evil tyrant Giant Despair.] * The ruins of Bow Fort stand on a high bank overhanging the river, — here very rapid and about fifty yards wide. Look- ing eastward down the vale, the eye ranges far over extensive prairies, bounded by low hills, whose features are partly hidden by a few small woods occupying their slopes and spreading into the valleys beneath. The colours of the foliage were most lovely in rich autumnal tints, — gold, olive, green, and crimson, according to the different varieties of trees that were grouped into clumps, or mingled together in the gi'oves. * The plains are all strewn with skulls and other vestiges of the buffalo, which came up this river last year in great numbers. They were once common in the mountains. At the CHAP. XVI. TO FORT EDMONTON. 265 the Kootanio Plain I ohserved some of their wallowing- places,* and even so high as a secluded little lake, near where the horses were taken up the ice-bank, I noticed certain traces of them. They are now rapidly disappearing eveiywhere : what will be the fate of the Indians, when this their chief support fails, it is pai^^l to imagine. ' Large as were the herds I saw in July, they were nothing to what I have heard and read of, and there is reason to be- lieve that I then beheld all the buffaloes belonging to the two Saskatchewan valleys and the intervening country, pressed from various quarters into one gi'eat host. There were none near Edmonton, none near Pitt, none near Carlton, during the whole winter, — the inhabitants meanwhile almost starving. And now I learn that the Blackfeet have been compelled to leave their usual settlements, and go far south in pursuit of their means of existence.' As we approached Bow Fort, we were met by three Stonies, who came to inform us that the rest were encamped close by. It appeared that they had neither fresh meat nor provisions of any kind, but that " bounding-deer " (Le Chevreuil f) were plentiful in the neighbouring woods, where some of their young men were then engaged in hunting them. In the evening this party returned, having killed seven deer, upon which M'Kay gave them supplies of ammunition, and sent them to the forest again on our account. Antoine and I had already started on the same errand, riding Moutonne and Jasper, as we usually did when hunting or exploring together. We forded the river, which was so deep and strong as nearly to carry the horses off their legs, and then made long search among the woods and poplar clumps, but without getting a chance, though we saw five * See footnote, p. 96. + See footnote, p. 113. i i 856 OLD BOW FORT CHAP. XVI. of tlio chcvrmih. It was dangorous, didicult work to recross tho river, in tho utter darkness timt hud set in by tlio time we reached its margin. Tho water had somewhat risen since our former crossing, and now came well above our knees, freezing our blood witli its icy chill. Jasper's great strength made up|||r his want of size, and he contrived to hold his own, but, between the weight of tho current and the darkness, wo drifted out of tho true line, and it seemed a very long journey before we lauded on tho opposite side. Toma, and others of the party, had been lisliing while we were away, baiting their hooks with pieces of raw meat, and had managed to catch fourteen fine trout, some of them as heavy as several pounds apiece. They were in excellent order, and made an agreeable change in our rather monotonous suppers. October 2d. — A tremendous north-westerly gale blew the whole night long. Being in a high and nmch exposed situa- tion we were quite unsheltered from its fury, and it beat upon us with terrific violence. My tent soon showed signs of yield- ing to the strain ; presently one of the poles broke acros.s,and everything fell in a heap upon my body. No step could be taken to repair damages amidst the darkness and the raging storm, so I was doomed to pass a most uncomfortable night, feeling much as if beneath a gigantic fan, as the canvas flapped steadily to and fro, and drove eddies of air through every covering I could devise. On searching about near the fort, we had found the re- mains of a number of carts, left behind by Captain Blakiston and different American travellers, preparatory to making their entrance into the mountains ; and, as many parts of tliese vehicles were still in fair order, M'Kay proposed that we should build ourselves new ones out of the fragments. CMAI'. XVf. TO FOllT KDMOXrON. 257 l*ack Hiuldles lire the only convoyaiico iulai)tecl for inouiitiiiii work, but ill tin; pluinn carts art! far prufiiiuMc, one liorso luiing able to draw more than tuo can carry; besides wliicli, the time occuiiicl in reiniiving the packs at every halt is saved, and the nieu are relieved from Mie labour of tyinj^ and imtyinj,' all Mp leather thongs, a troublesomo and dillicult job in wet or frosty weather. We ho))ed to have found harness al?«o, but there wore disappointed, for the cache made by Cai)tain Blakiston had been opened, and everythiiif,' carried oil', ^ratheson (having belonged to that party) had been present when the things were stored away, and perfectly remembered the place, — indeed we found a board with written directions, which would have guided us sulTPiciently had he been mistaken. This mattered little, however, for M'Kay at once engaged to make harness as well as carts, lie was as go-^d as his word ; by mid-day his work was finished, and we had the pleasure of seeing three carts and their harness all complete ; the whole skilfully put together in a few hours by my handy men, who had a knack of overcoming all difficulties, and making everything out of nothing at the shortest notice. [One of my shooting-boots having been cut by the rocks, Kline mended it as firmly as any jHofessional cobbler could have done ; he also repaired my telescope -case in the same workmanlike manner.] The storm having abated, we marched a few miles to a more sheltered place ; where all the Indians presently joined us, forming their encampment close to mine. Soon afterwards the hunters came in, and brought us five cJurrcuifs and a goose, as the produce of our annnunition, so we were once again abundantly supplied. While some of the older Indians were talking with us, t Iff 4 ■ I I HiWHMMM 1 fi I. ; f, Ji68 OLD BOW FORT CHAP. XVI. happened to notice a pipe, which one of the head men was hold- ing in his hand. It was neatly carved out of black slate-like stone, though the stem was merely a rough piece of fir. On hearing that I admired it, the owner immediately presented it to me with the most obliging politeness. I afterwards gave him in return some tilings that I found him t^be in want of, adding two pair of my own woollen socks, which he received with interest, though evidently puzzled as to their exact use. :''^' ffippif^' ASSINlUOINIi i'll'li AND STEM. r — ' At night a bell was rung in the Assiniboine camp, and the Indians all joined in singing hymns, as they do every night. The service lasted some time. It was a sort of chant, the men and women occasionally singing in parts. Their preacher is an aged and venerable man. He learned Chris- tianity from another Indian, I believe, but his gift of preaching is entirely self-developed. Mr. Woolsey had since #. CHAP. XVI. TO FORT EDMONTON. 259 occasionally visited these people, who, as far as I could learn, are now well instructed in the Christian faith, and certainly carry out its precepts in their lives.'* October 3d. — The Indians' dogs were exceedingly trouble- some all night long, making continual attempts to carry oft' our fresh meat, whicli was their particular attraction. Woke by these intruders several times, I went out and drove them away, but they always came back again as impudently as ever. There was a thin coating of snow on the ground this morning, the result of an easterly wind that began after tlie great gale had spent its force. — ' I had l)een considering what I could do for tliese poor and most worthy Indians, and a plan having occurred to me, I sent for the chief man, and spoke to him as follows — M'Kay interpreting. I said — that I was very glad to have met them, and much pleased by the kindness with which they had re- ceived and helped me ; that it also made me glad to find that they were Christians, and so well remembered what they had been taugh.c ; that God never failed to help those who put their trust in him, and that He had put it into my heart to do them good ; that I had not much with me here, but that if they would send with my party two of their young men, with spare horses and packs, as far as Edmonton, they should return with a supply of blankets, annnunition, and such other things as they wanted, which I would give them as a token of friendship and goodwill. * The Assiniboines were nmch delighted, and gratefully accepted my ofter, expressing their thankfulness in broken words. ' This plan, I think, promises well. Apart from the duty * Through "some misappruheusion of M 'Kay's, I was led to uiulerrate the tixtent of Mr. Woolsey's iniiiistratious among these people. The subject is more fully gone into afterwards. - I ■ if ■•1 « 1^^ i i 4^ ii f I :^ ' '•>. 260 OLD BO.V FORT tllAl'. XVI. and pleasure of helping these really poor people, I feel that to them we owe onr rescue from great privations, if not star-"^ vation itself; and though, as it liappened, I was able to pay for all we got, I am satisfied that had we been destitute there would have been no difference in their liberality. The men who accompany us will hunt for us on the way, and their spare horses will also be serviceable, so that they may freely receive whatever I send them without feeling themselves re- cipients of charity. So small a sum, indeed, will suffice to make these few families happy, that the circumstances alone make the matter worth noting.' Poor as they were, these Indians had a farm, on which they grew different sorts of vegetables. We got some turnips from them, which were pretty good, though not of large size. The old preacher happening to say that he had never seen a likeness of Queen Victoria, I gave him a half-crown piece that bore Her INfajesty's imago, wliicli excited great admira- tion. At the same time I divided a few trinkets among the women. We did very little about horses, only arranging to leave one of the Edmonton animals, which was nearly giving ou% in exchange for a strong black mare; paying two blankets and some other things besides, and engaging to send the owner a third blanket (which he particularly asked might be a green one) on the return of the messengers. Before we left I made a trifling purchase from two of the Stonies, buying from one a beaded knife-sheath, and a beaded fire-bag from the other, which, though worn and dirty, and not remarkable in pattern, [ was glad to have as specimens of their connnoner work. Tlie snow having nearly disappeared, we now struck our tents, and made a short aiternoon march of two or three miles, putting ourselves beyond the reacli of the tmublesonie Indian '3 il riiAV. XVI. TO FORT EDMONTON. 201 dogs. Tliis enabled us to freeze all our venison by setting it out ill the open air during the night — Whisky nnizzled in consequence, to his great disgust. f ri ASSlNIHlilM': KNrFH-SMK.'. IH AN]: l-l RK-11A(; October Wt. — The two Stonies who were to accompany us joined us this morning : one of tliem, we found, liad lately been in T)r. Hector's om])lov. I was much struck l)y tli(^ I 262 OLD BOW FORT cirAi'. XVI. f [ I ; liii u E 1:. Il'l beauty of their hands, whicli seemed to nie the smallest and shapeliest I had ever beheld on men. Perhaps this special handsomeness only belonged to one particular Assiniboine band, for no other Indians known to me approached them in that respect. Another young man also added himself to our party, in- tending to ride Avith us a short distance. Ho was accompanied by his wife, who was certainly the prettiest Indian woman I had yet had a chance of seeing. Instead of being lean, Hat, and bony, she was plump and well-proportioned in figure ; her features were good, though a little thick ; her expression was remarkably pleasant and good-humoured. Below her under lip three blue perpendicular lines, about an inch in length, Avere tattooed with much care and distinctness. Before we had gone many miles we observed a large party approaching us on the open plain. We supposed them to be Blackfeet, and as they were on bad terms with the Stonies, all of us loaded and prepared for a fight. The three Indians then rode forward with myself and two others to reconnoitre ; and, to my amusement, as soon as we left the rest, the pretty young woman pushed briskly on and joined us, evidently considering her husband's side by far the safest place when danger threatened. We soon m.ade out the enemy to be nothing but a com- pany of Americans, bound for Fraser's River. Mr. Hind, whom I had met on the 9th of August, was among the number, having fallen in with his present companions at Fort Carlton. JNIr. Colville — brother of Sheriff Colville of St. Paul, Mr. Dickman, Mr. Eeid, and two or three others whose names I did not learn, made up the whole brigade. There were two very fine nniles, of immense size, in their band, but liaving rather too few horses, they had already CHAP. XVI. TO FORT EDMONTON. 263 \ been twelve days on the road from Edmonton, which was poor travelling. ' It was an agi*eeable and useful meeting on both sides. They liberally supplied us with salt, flour, rice, dried apples, etc., as far as they could, and we, in return, gave them tobacco, fresh meat, a moose-skin, and a shoeing-hammer. Besides this, Matheson shod several of their horses. We also en- gaged one of the Stonies for them as guide over part of the mountains, an arrangement tlifey could not have made for themselves, having no interpreter, and speaking no Indian language. * We dined together, then parted with many kind wishes and farewells, and went on our ways rejoicing.' After this we made a good march over a prairie country, and camped for the night in a hollow between two hills. On the way we saw a number of bounding-deer and four wolves. It was fine winter weather : bright sunshine and hard frost. The Pleiades and Aldebaran were now visible after sunset. October 5th. — Intense frost. Rose before break of day, and travelled through hilly prairies interspersed with a few small poplar woods, till we came to Dog liiver, an insignificant stream, where we halted to partake of our breakfast-dinner. The Stonies, who had been hunting all the morning, now rejoined us, bringing in one black-tailed deer. They had killed four others, but left them, as too heavy to carry. ' We spoke about sending for this quantity of meat, but they laughed at the notion. " What's the use ? " they said ; " there are plenty more deer on the road, — easy to get, as they are not much hunted hereabouts." ' This is an illustration of Indian improvidence : those Stonies, on their own hunting-gi-ounds, needlessly destroy uamo, know:'n2 that the scarceness of game in most of the H \ \4 ,)U ¥ $ :f. 2G4 OLD BOW FOirr CHAI'. XVI. surrounding country had often brought people to the verge of stai-vation, — that this very year the Jasper's House hunters had been obliged to go elsewhere in searcli of sustenance. ' With the buffalo it is the same— kill, kill, kill. All the year round the Indians are hunting and slaughtering them, and in the winter they drive them into " pounds " by hundreds at a time, and murder every beast in the enclosures, male and female, young or old, usable or useless. Such waste will soon bring its bitter punishment.' October 6th. — INIade a very long march over an undulating country, and halted for dinner a good deal later than usual, owing to the difliculty of finding wood and water. The same cause obliged us to travel on for an hour after dark ; the moon, however, gave some little light, though obscured by clouds. Shot two young musk-rats at the edge of the quiet pool beside which we were camping, and had them cooked as ])art of supper. I thought them rather good, ' like rabbits, with a duck flavour.' They are not real rats, but more of the beaver tribe, living entirely on vegetable food.* Shot also several prairie-fowl in course of the day. October 7th. — The country became more hilly as we approached lied Deer lliver. Again we had to march for an hour in the dark, camping for the tiight near a swami)y piece of water about a mile off the regular track. A flock of wild swans rose from a lake as we passed by, soared upwards, and streamed away into the distance in a long and waving line. I watched the beautiful creatures till they were so far off as to seem like a white ribbon iloating across the deep indigo-blue of the evening sky. * Filler Zilietliii.'us. T/ie Musquash {Musk-hiuvn; Musk-rnt). Musquash . . . also rrcs'iuay-tu^iryru- {the nuliiiol that sits an the iir in n round fonu) — Cico Indians. " Lenj^tli oi' head ami liody, 11 incln'S ; of tail, S.i inclios." liiciIAlin.sdN, — Fmni. Biir.-ylni., v»\. i. ]\ ll't. H'- XVI. CHAI'. XVI TO FORT EDMONTON. 205 t| October 8t/t. — Another change in the weather; yesterday it was very warm with a hot sun, to-day the wind blew from the north, and it was bitterly cokl. There were plenty of all varieties of wild-fowl in the lakes and pools. Short stalked and shot a swan this morning before breakfast, and a goose and a duck were brought in by the hunters at the same time. We also saw a number of rabbits — as they are called, though more resembling the Scotch mountain hare. They were but poor eating, like a particularly tasteless rabbit of the common kind.* After leaving camp, a few miles brought us to Eed Deer River ; we had a considerable march, however, along its course before reaching the crossing-place at the bend. At that point the stream was nearly 100 yards wide, being spread over gravelly shallows, but elsewhere it averaged only half that width, in its then low and empty condition. Shooting at some ducks near the river, I started a black bear, to which M'Kay and I gave chase, and ran him pretty hard. Old Cendre went well, but the bear doubled so craftily in the brushwood, that we could never get near him, and at length he escaped us altogether. Camped at Blind Eiver, eight miles from the Red Deer River ford. Sunday, October dth. — Slight snow-storm at night ; very cold north-west wind. Short made another successful stalk, and brought in two fine young swans. * The dogs caught a curious animal, like a large dormouse. [Beyond the facts that it was about the size of a small common * Lupus Americiimi.s. T/ic. American Hare, llahbit — pjiiropean llosi- (Icnts at iriulson's 15ay. Zc Lapin — Frciiph Caiiailiaiis. JFapoos — Croc fikliaiis. " III the fiir-coiuitrics tliis hare lu'comcs white ill the winter. . . . lienyth of lica inches." Hiciiaudsox, — Fiiiat. linr.-Am., vol. i. p. 217. n •1 i' 1 ■i II 200 OLT) BOW FORT CHAV. XVI. •it ■'■)■■ ' Mi 1 ' i . I I 1^. rat, or of a very largo thick-set mouse, and had conspicuous pouches on tlio sides of its head, I do not distinctly remem- ber the appearance of this animal ; but my impression is that its colour was a brownish grey, and its tail hairy, and of no great length. I took its skin as a specimen, but unfortunately lost it in course of the journey. From Sir Jolin Richardson's work I gather the following particulars regarding tlie class of animal to wliicli it might no doubt be assigned. There are two genera of Sand-rats, — belonging to one or other of which are at least six or seven distinct species, — the one classified by some nfituralists as Gcomys, the other as DipJostoma : — " The sand-rats belonging to the former having cheek-pouches, which are filled from within the mouth, and the gauffrcs or camas-rats of the latter genus having their cheek-pouches exterior to the mouth, and entirely imconnected with its cavity." Both these genera are of burrowing habits, but while the rat of the gcomys tribe appears to use its pouches only as a receptacle for the acorns, nuts, roots, plants, etc., that form its food, with the dqilo- stoma rat " these pouches serve the purpose of bags for carry- ing the earth out of their holes. They are filled with the foreclaws, and emptied at the mouth of the hole by a power which the animal possesses of ejecting the pouches from each cheek, in the manner that a cap or stocking is turned." — Faun. Bor.-Am., vol. i. pp. 197-209.] ' Bears feed almost entirely on roots and mice, and besides eating the latter, they dig up and devour the hoards of seed which the poor little creatures collect for their winter use. Strange, such a huge beast as a grisly bear feeding on a mouse ! A moose is more what one would expect.' October 10th. — Crossed Battle River before dinner, and ^Z- XVI. and ciiAr. xvr. TO FORT EDMONTON. 207 campod in the middle of a large plain. Ducks and prairie- fowl in great numbers. The moon appeared to-night with a luminous ring around her, enclosing also the greater part of the eastern sky ; it was of a clear light, and showed no prismatic colouring. October 11th. — Marched before sunrise. Tlie morning, as usual, very frosty and cold ; succeeded by a cool, cloudy day. Before dinner we arrived at the point where the Blackfoot track to Edmonton strikes into the road we were travelling. Near this place Brun Farouche gave out ; lie had been ill for some time, and had latterly been spared from carrying his load ; he now became too weak to follow us any more, so we had to leave him to his fate. On coming to Pike Creek we found that the beavers had dammed it up below the track, making the water so deep as to oblige us to raise all the baggage in the carts, by supporting it on poles laid across. While this arrange- ment was in progress, I went to look at the dams, and near the uppermost observed several trees of eiglit inches diameter lying prostrate, cut down by the knife-like teeth of the beavers ; other good-sized trees were approaching their fall, being gashed with large nicks almost to the centre. Having passed Pike Creek, we had a disagi'eeable journey over some twelve miles of recently biirnt country, and camped at length in a wilderness of brush, after an unusually long march — of not less than thirty-five miles. As we pitched the tents, a little foal, left behind by some former ■ travellers, emerged from the thicket, and came trotting up to our horses, witli whom he joined company, delighted to find himself with friends of his own race. ' It was a beautiful sight to watch the full orb of the sun sinking in the west amidst clouds of black, purple, orange. iln n , , 1 11 If^ ' If Ijj ^ F - j •■ • i i4r^- Hi "'i ^1 f i m ■ij- i .ilr Hi . m ■ II 2GH OLD IJUW FOIIT (11 Al'. XVI and gold, while the full orb of the moon rose in the opposite heavens amidst clouds of purple, lilac, pink, and amber, — the two great cloud-masses exactly balanced in size, and corro spondent in colour, though the former was reflected by the latter in feebler and softer hues.' A number of ducks and prairie-fowl were shot to-day, which, with the remains of the Americans' rice, served for our supper : we wore then left without a vestige of provisions, excei)t a handful of Hour and 31bs. of mouldy pemmican. October 12th. — ' Some of the men started very early and went forward to shoot game, and, as we proceeded on our march, we were constantly coming upon the ducks and rabbits they had killed and left hanging on conspicuous branches for our benefit. I could not help thinking of the com'i:onplaee ])hrase — You see your dinner : and this well-seen din.ier was well eaten, lo the very last atom, at White Mud Ilivor, where we halted to rest, after about four hours' travelling. * As we were now near Edmonton we all made ourselves as clean and smart as we could, and, these preparations tinished, two hours more brought us to the Fort, where flying colours and cannon salutes gave us the first part of the cordial welcome that greeted o'ur return. * Mr. Christie, who i.-* now in charge, received me with the utmost kindness and hospitality. I had also the pleasure of meeting again the llev. M. Le Frain from St. Ann, and Mr. Macaulay fron.\ Fort Pitt. Mr. Brazeau has gone to Eocky ^Mountain House, and ^Fr. Woolsey is engaged in a missionary tour. ' There is a wonderful improvement in the Fort. Order and cleanliness everywhere prevail. . . . It is delightful to be again enjoying some of the comforts of civilisation, — such as wiru>, well-made coflce, v('g('tal)les, cream-tarts, and oth(?r good things too many to mention. CM \i'. xvr. TO FOllT EDMONTON. S'id '{,' ' Some of Captain Palliscr's moii have just retuvniiil, uml ruport his safe arrival at Fort Colvillo. They bring the vvoi'st account of Eraser's lliver, — neither gold nor food to he got. ' No very lato news from Europe : the hitest speak of a great battle being innuinent, between the Austrians and the united French and Sardinian armies. 'Poor llowland has died. Swimming the river probably killed him, the cold being too much for him in liis reduced condition.' October I'Sth. — This morning I settled with Munroe and Antoine lilandoine, giving each a small remendn-ance in toke7i of goodwill. To the worthy old hunter, however, I was glad to make a further present as a mark of more particular regard, and we parted with very real signs of regret on his part, — which 1 entirely reciprocated, for a more honest, excellent man it would be impossible to meet with anywhere. I then had all the horses brought together, and after a careful inspection with M'Kay, decided to leave eleven ; among which I regretted having to include the fine chestnut bought from the Stonies at Bow liiver, as an internal illness had suddenly seized him about three days before, and reduced him to mere skin and bone. It was aiTanged that ^fr. Christie should take over these horses for the Company, and enter them to my credit as a balance against those supplied to me on different occasions, rating the whole of them at a certain My account, therefore, now stood as below : — Horses vecL'iveil fi'om the Coniiiiuiy. At Ciirltoii .... 3 At Edmonton ... 8 average value. Horses given or returned to the Company. At St. Ann . • . 1 At Jasper's House . 1 At Edmonton 11 )th('r Total II Total i:} Showinu' a ludance. of two in niv favour. m i ( I ^ 270 OLD BOW FORT CIIAI'. XVI. 1 had now only nine horses, bosules the six hsl't at Carlton in July, as the follow in jj; statement will exi)lain : — orses traiwI'oiTcil. HoiMCH kept. Wiiwliei'. C'eiuhv. Uleii. JaHpiT. Revolver. Pitt liichoii. Shnr{). M'OilliH (Bloiul). Diuiciin 2(1. Uelllolit. Slioit-tuil. Wawi)oo88 2tl. Choculat, Mission Ceinhv. Brun. SkowLalil. Black. Black inare. Moutonne. Chestnut. Total 1 1 Total Horses lost. Whiteface . . strayed, Aaj,'. 2;)tl. Bay .... died, Sejjt. IJltli. Prince . . . gave out, Sept. 21st. Carlton Biclion gave out, Sejtt. 2.'>th Brun Farouche gave out, Oct. 11th. Rowland . . died, Oct. 12th. Total (5 Ilin'ses at C'lirltoii. Morgnn. Vermont. Paul. Anthony. Mousey. Deserter. Total G October 14th. — ' Took leave of the Assiniboine.s this morn- ing, giving them their present, with the following letter to their people : — * My Friends — I send you some things as I promised. There are . . . blankets. The green one is for the man from whom I got the black mare, the others are to be given to the two old men to be divided among your families. I also send . . . bullets, with powder ; . . . knives, a packet of tobacco, and . . . kettles, to be distributed in the same way. The three cai)s are for the two old men and the old man who preaches. < I- Al'. XVI. Jmltoii IIIIAI'. XVI. TO FOUT EDMONTON. S71 ■II. (5 iiioin- iCr to iiised. from o the send id . . . ' I have given three hlankets, some clotliea, a shirt, . . . bulh>ts, and some tobacco to the three men who came here, — for tliemselvea, ' 1 hope you will take care not to waste the amnuinition. ' T trust God may grant you health and prosperity : and I shall always remain your friend, South ksk.' [In a letter from the Kev. Mr. Settee (with whoni, as it will bo seen, I afterwards became acrpuiinted at Fort Telly), dated January 11th, 1871, 1 received the sad news that small-pox had carried off the whole camp of these poor Mountain Stonies. The disease first apjieared in the Saskat- chewan district about the month of July 1870, and made terrible ravages among the Indian tribes.] That afternoon I sent off all the horses to Carlton, in charge of Kline and Lagrace. My plan, as finally anunged, was to travel there by river in one of the Company's large boats, which, under ordinary circumstances, is by far the quickest and easiest way. I hoped to hire six more horses at that fort, which, with those left in summer, "would enable me to reach Fort Pelly, where it was considered that dog-trains were most likely to be found. If all went well, I exiiected to arrive at Carlton about the end of that month, and at Fort Garry towards the beginning of December. Sunday October lG I lit I i I 274 FORT EDMONTON CHAP. XVII. Saskatcliewan meu. My party now consisted of M'Kay, M']]eath, ]\Iatlieson, Short, Tonia and Duncan, — who formed an excellent crew for the CJolden Era. Whisky, alas ! had deserted u,s, preferring ignoble ease at the Fort to our good society : soon woidd he regret his short-sighted selfishness, when compelled to the old toilsome sleigh-work nnder the tormentor's lash. Orfohrr 18th. — 'Heavy snowstorm at night. Sleet and snow, with high north-west wind, continued till late in the afternoon. It was awfully cold. Took an oar for a couple of hours to warm myself ; pretty hard work tugging at those eighteen-foot poles called oars, liiver beginning to freeze.' Ocfohcr Idth. — 'Cold intense: ground covered with snow. The intensity of the cold nearly destroys one's vitality ; several times I felt as if going to faint. . . . The river is Aery nearly frozen over : mdess a cliange come t(i-night Ave shall l»e ice-bound, and have to walk a hundred miles or more to Fort I'itt, where the horses ought to be.' Oduhi'T 20t/i.~' Snow in the night, frost in the day. River blocked with great masses of ice : boat closed in.' Odobcr 2\d. — ' Seeing no prospect of escape, we sent off IMatheson and Short to bring the horses from Fort Pitt. Worked hard all morning with the men clearing away the snow from the camj), and makinj. everything tidy, as we shall have to stay here some time. ' In the afternoon the men cleared out the Golden Era, and freed it of snow : I amused myself cutting logs for the fire. . . . An aurora borealis in tlie region of Ursa jMajor.' October '22(L — 'Intensely cold night; blankets s})rinkled with hoar-fntst, notwithstanding the shelter of the tent; could not put my liead out from under the bulfalo robe witli- out positive jjuin.' ^1 ::i i ' f- CHAP. XVII. TO FORT PITT. 27n . . . ' Wo shall pi'obably liave to stay more tliau a week iu this wretched place. Nevertheless, I should be a fool to grumble, though longing to make progress on my home- ward way, so many proofs have I had that Providence orders all for the best. For example, at Edmonton we learned that the Blackfeet have become very hostile, so that Captain Palliser with difficulty escajjed from them, owing his safety only to the efforts of Muuroe, his interpreter (brother to my Munroe), who dissuaded them from an intended attack. Having got an idea that Government is going to take their land from them, and that the Expedition was sent to survey it with that view, they have vowed to murder any white men who enter their territories ; thus, if the failure of provisions had not obliged me to give up my plan of crossing the plains from Bow Fort to Carlton, we shoiild have incurred great danger, being certain to have met with these treacherous savages. The horses would have been taken, and probably our ritles and other property : some of my people even think we should have been murdered, but that I doubt, though an Indian war-party is not over scrupulous. ' "Walked a few miles with my rifle, and saw tracks of small deer. The snow is about [? nine] inches deep.' Sundrnj, Ocioher 23d. — ' Passed an uncomfortable night, feverish, and suffering from a bad cold in the head and throat. Weather continues frosty and intensely cold : river quite frozen over. Much depressed at the thought of staying another week in this miserable place, and, after that, two months' liard travelling to Fort Garry in snow and wretched- ness. This detention completely upsets all plans. ]\Iy travels hitherto have often been wearisome enough, but formerly 1 had hope and novelty for consolers. Now, all chance of sport is at an end '— . . . u "i ■ " ■; !" , ( 1 * i i hi' r -I 276 FORT EDMONTON (.HAP. XVII. October 24:th. — ' Last night was cloudy, the wind changed to south, and there was very little frost. I am better to-day, and so is ]\I'Kay, who is suffering from an attack of the same kind. It seems to be the Edmonton illness, which for some weeks lias been laying up so many people there, — severe affection of the stomach, feverishness and cough, — rather an influenza than a cold. He remarked, justly I think, that such an illness sooner leaves a man living in the open air than one shut up in a house. ' One of the great luxuries in tliis change of weather is the deliverance from having one's bedding frozen wherever the breath touches it ; it is unpleasant to pass the night with a collar of ice round one's neck, and a sprinkling of icicles on one's pillow. Blankets are poor protectors from cold com- pared to buffolo robes, one robe being more than equal to three good blankets ; but I doubt if any quantity of cover- ings could keep a cldlly person warm in these bitter nights. Be that as it may, I find that even disturbed sleep in the open air (or under a tent, which is much the same) refreshes more than the most dreamless slumbers on soft beds in heated rooms. [Tiiat is, in the long run it is so, though not always, nor even generally, on any single occasion.] ' ]\I'Kay and JM'Beath went out shooting, but saw nothing, and found the country, at any distance from the river, so swampy as to be almost impassable. . . . — ' Fiiiished a second reading of Bulwer's M^/ Novel, a work in regard to which the author may well show his pride, by giving it such a title, implying liis readiness to rest his fame as a novelist upon it ; — -but what M^ork does not lay itself open to criticism ? ' I would ask, — Whence is Bandal Leslie sujiposed to de- rive his powerful, though evil, genius? His father is a CHAP. XVII. TO FORT riTT. 277 dc- liopeless idiot, whose own father appears to have been of the same sort, and whose mother was a Hazeldean, which is saying enough. Eandal's mother is a restless fool, and neither the Montfydgets nor the Dandles conld have trans- mitted any valuable qualities through her to her progeny. In like manner, Nora Avenel seems unaccountable in such a family as that she springs from, and even if we imagine her genius to have developed itself from some germs in the parents' minds, we are at a loss to find her brother and sister, Eichard and Jane, so absolutely her opposites in character. I am convinced that in real life there is always a connecting chain, slender though it be, bringing the minds of near relations into some sort of inner unison, however great their external differences may seem. 'Another remark — Does not the author over-push the notion of partially blemishing some of his higher characters in order that they may not seem unnaturally perfect ? Par- son Dale's evil tempers at whist (unacknowledged and unrepented of), however common and trivial the fault, are so forcibly depicted as to injure the effect of his subsequent holy exhortations. liiccabocca's grotesqueness is so dwelt on, that we vainly try to think of him as an Italian patrician of the sublimest type, when his honours are finally restored. Harley's schemes of vengeance are pushed so far as per- manently to affect our belief in his natural generosity, and his devices become so crafty that his former frankness is made to look as if it had been mere indolence. Leonard is at first such an awkward milksop that nothing can ever raise him in our respect, — let him be poet, orator, or lover, we cannot separate him from our memories of a loutish cub well thrashed by Eandal Leslie. Hazeldean is so stupid, so pompous, so tyrannical, that his good-heart- 1 ! : ! ^ Ml [■■■■ »i :|4 Is'- fi 278 FORT EDMONTON CHAP. XVII. edness and active benevolence melt into the clouds, and " Prize Ox," the name lie so much resented, seems his most appropriate designation — if one suppose the beast more stir- ring and irascible than fat cattle generally are. * Violante stands out magnificently on the canvas : there is nothing to interfere with our delight in her noble quali- ties. What author but Bulwer is able to raise up such an image of the female character of grandest type, perfect in beauty, in refinement, in genius, in love ? And Audley Egertou, who but a master of the art could have created liim ? Why, Oh why, after the death of his second wife — a wife married for money — did he retire to the country for a few weeks, and come back to town " with a new wrinkle on his brow"? Such an improbable, incongruous sentiment- alism goes far to make him ridiculous altogether. ' Shakespeare often indicates faults in his higher cliarac- ters, when misfortunes have to overtake them, lest Heaven might otherwise be thought too severe towards a worthy and dutiful child ; he also generally indicates virtues in his baser characters, that they may be men, not monsters ; but he does not present these paradoxes so forcibly as to distract attention from the leading idea. For example : on the one hand, Desdemona's want of filial duty ; Oplielia's w^eakness and readiness to act as a spy on her lover ; Cordelia's pride ; Juliet's unbounded passion ; — on the other hand, Falstaff's jovial good nature ; Lady Macbeth's wifely and motherly feel- ings, and her deep remorse ; [even Shylock can cherish a past love, and bear a warm heart for those of his own nation ; even Caliban has a dash of goodness in him, some rough poetic fancy, some power of veneration and attachment].' [Sir Walter Scott errs constantly in sinking his heroes too low to be quite re-elevated to their proper lieight. Cer- OIIAP. XVII. TO FORT PITT. 279 tain sorts of meanness or baseness are so opposite to the character of a gentleman, not to say hero, that to attribute them to any personage who is meant to be an object of respect or esteem, or even to make the unjust imputation of them rest on him too heavily and long, robs him beyond retrieval of our sympathy, and wounds our imagination in the tenderest part. Nothing can redeem Waverley from the contempt he has so fiUly merited as a pitiful turncoat •, Keuneth, in The Talisma7i, can never lose some traces of the low defaulter's stigma for quitting the standard he was placed to guard ; Glenvarloch, in The Fortunes of Nigel, is lowered for ever by being disgraced at court as a petty, sparrow-hawking gam- bler; Mordaunt, in The Pirate, is crushed to the earth by Cleveland's superior force and his own wretched love vacil- lations ; — in short. Sir Walter's heroes are most often put into such foul shades, and kept there so long, that they never recover their brightness, — their souls smell of the dungeon to the last.] October 25 th. — ' The wind is high and in a new quarter, the sun shines once more. The mildness of the westerly wind has affected the w^eather ; the snow is melting, the ice, though more than half-a-foot thick, begins to break, and the rising water piles it up in heaps and runs swiftly in narrow chan- nels. A few birds, who have found out our feeding times and make them their own, are singing in a subdued way, and a spring feeling pervades all nature.' October 2Qth. — 'The night has been rather cold. The sun shines as it did yesterday, but there is frost in the air. Took my rifle and walked a few miles up the river, but saw no game. We have been here a week to-day; the tedious- ness is awful.' i i j -I ;1 « m wn I 1 '■^')l' I 280 FORT EDMONTON CHA1>. XVII ' I have been reading the second and third parts of " Henry VI." Would that one could know how much truth there is in Shakespeare's version of history ! A great poet dealing with historical themes assumes a mighty responsibility, for generations untold will be led by his genius to accept his views of the past. Where one man reads history a hundred read poetry> and not only believe in the poet's accuracy but hate those who bring facts tending to cast doubt on it. ' Did great men in the middle ages, or in Shakespeare's own day, really curse and revile one another as he represents, or were they content to "use daggers" without "speaking" them, as folk do now ? Theatres have always required their poets as well as their artists to scene-paint audaciously, for the sake of dull or distant eyes. ' The silent, self-contained man who bears down the world by sheer force of will displayed in deeds not words, who, passionless as a statue, makes the passions of others his min- istering sprites, seems to be of modern creation in fiction. The writers of old were too objective to trouble themselves with a sort of character that did so much with so little show, effects seeming to them more valuable than causes. Modern French romancists particularly delight in these impassible heroes. They often represent Englishmen, in such guise. I doubt if they are right ; for though, as com- pared with foreigners, the Briton works silently and power- fully, yet the very characteristic of his strength is its free- dom from that self-consciousness which your romantic in- scrutable being of indomitable will possesses in the utter- most degree. The English like work that is done under right impulses from without, and neither much spoken of nor thought over previously to its execution ; the French more esteem work meditated and announced beforehand, ii CHAP. XVII. TO FORT PITT. 281 which the worker can therefore claim as his own creation, instead of disclaiming all merit in it, as being a mere gift of circumstance or fortune.' October 2 ^th. — . rost again at night, followed by a mild day with bright sun ; the ice melting and cracking. M'Kay walked eight miles down the river, and reports that about three miles from this, at a bend between steep banks, the ice is packed into a dam, below which the stream is open for as far as- he could see. It is provoking to think that had we gone on half-an-hour longer at the time we were stopped, our imprisonment would have been ended some days ago. There is no way either to break the dam or take the boat to the clear water below it. . . M'Kay made a draught-board, and a set of men for the game.' October 2%th and 29' 1-: i-: ll * "As the Iiuliiin languag(!.s arc numerous, so do thej' greatly vary in tlu'ir efTeet on the car. We have the raiiid C6otoonaij [Kootanie] of the Eoeky irountaiiis, and the stately Black/oot of the phiins, the slow embarrassed Flat- head of the mountains, the smooth-toned Picrccd-nosc, the guttural diflicult Sussce [Sirccc] and Clicpcvijav, the sing-song Assincloignc, the deliberate Crcc, and the sonorous majestic. Chi[)iHnvay [Ojibway]." IIowse, — A Grammar of the Crec La'iiguagc : Loudon, 1844, p. 13. t The same incident is relerred to by Captain IJutler {T/ic (/reat Lour ipti ; J' . 288 FORT EDMONTON CHAP. XVII. Previous to the terrible outbreak of smallpox, which carried off such multitudes, the Blackfoot confederacy was believed to comprise from 12,000 to 14,000 people, all included.] ' This powerful confederacy is completely surrounded by enemies, with whom there is always some pretext for war- fare. On the north, the Crees and Stonies continually force on hostilities, for the sake of stealing the Blackfoot horses, which are far better than their own ; while, in the south, the Blackfeet make war on the Crows and Flatheads for a similar reason. The Crows, I am told, are the only Indians brave enough to attack a camp openly by day. . . . ' The Blackfeet far surpass the Crees in cleanliness, and fineness of apparel. Mr. Chastellain gave me a beautiful specimen of a Blood Indian woman's dress, made from prepared skins of the mountain-sheep, and richly embroidered with blue and white beads. Such dresses are now seldom to be met with. An Indian, trading here one day, stri])ped his wife of this tunic-formed outer garment, and sold it on the spot for rum. ' This is a strange country. A good horse is often to be bought for a gallon of rum ; and yet not only strangers like myself, but people of the place, will give £20, £30, even £40, for a buffalo-runner of repute. Here, at Furt Pitt, some of the men who own horses have asked me £25 for only moderately good ones, and tliat sort of price I learn they have often obtained from others.' [It was from Mr. Chastellain that I heard the following anecdote, illustrative of the strength and ferocity of the grisly bear : whetlier he himself or another person were tlie eye- witness referred to I do not remember, but I know that he vouclied for the absolute truth of the story. Land, 1872, p. 360), wlio also gives iiuich information about the progress and ravages of the smallpox epiilemio. ' jl CHAP. XVII, TO FORT PITT, 289 to be •s like even some only they A certain hunter was proceeding to stalk four buffalo bulls, which he had observed quietly feeding at the out- skirts of a little wood. While, however, he was yet hardly within range of them, another actor appeared on the scene, a grisly of the largest size, who, quitting the covert that had concealed him, advanced very deliberately towards the nearest of the four buffaloes. The bull was too proud to flee from a single opponent, — it is not their habit to flee except from man, — he lowered his head and prepared to receive the attack : the conflict was over in a moment; with one sweep of his paw the grisly broke the enormous neck of his antagonist, and laid him lifeless on the ground. Meanwhile the other bulls had remained as spectators, taking no part in the conflict, and showing no signs of excitement or alarm. The grisly having made an end of one of his foes, now boldly advanced to the next : the same scene took place as before, and the second bull lay broken-necked a few yards from his defeated companion. A third time the grisly advanced to the attack : for the third time a similar result followed. There was now but one bull left. He was younger than the others, and his horns were consequently still long, and sharp at the points, instead of being worn and blunted through rooting in the earth during the fervours of many seasons. Though smaller than his companions, he met the savage grisly with equal resolution : there was a more protracted grapple ; then the bull fell dead with a broken neck, like the other vanquished three, but the bear, instead of looking about for further conquests, now dragged himself off, a miserable object, with his bowels all u ^'*; i" ; <: * ; 290 FORT EDMONTON CHAP. xvir. trailing on the ground, protruding through a huge and mortal rent inflicted by the horns of the buffalo. He had but just strength to crawl into the neighbouring bushes, and there he very shortly afterwards died. I forget whether it was at this Fort, or elsewhere, that I was told another curious anecdote, in which the grisly bear was largely concerned. Two Indians, Crees or Ojibways most likely, were so suddenly surprised by a bear, that, after ineffectually dis- charging their guns, no course presented itself but to take refuge in the nearest tree, in far too great haste to carry up their weapons with tliem. The tree, as it happened, was a mere high naked pole, with only one lateral branch of sufficient size to support the weight of a man. Even for that it was hardly sufficient ; so when Llie Indian wlio went up first had seated himself on this single percli, the other remained beneath him in the most miserable position, only preserved from the grip of the monster that kept close watch below, — for grislies cannot climb timber, — by clinging round the tree-stem with all the power of which his arms and knees were > ;apable. Such a state of things, it was plain, could not long continue ; the poor fellow soon found his strength relaxing, and, as he grew weaker and weaker, the thoughts of his approaching fate, and of his young family left helpless and destitute — for these people often love their wives and children very tenderly, — so worked upon his mind that he burst out into tears and lamentations, while tlie other Indian looked scorn- fully down upon him from his place of safety above. The fatal moment came, the \\Tetched man's streniith gave way, closing his eyes he abandoned himself to his fate, as his botly went hurtling rapidly through the air. . CHAP. XVII. TO FORT PITT. 291 long fate, Now, as it cnanced, at that very instant the grisly was in so exact a line beneath, that our friend, instead of dashing upon tlie liard ground, plunged right upon the animal's back, a catastrophe which so astonished the bear that away he rushed in a panic, as hard as his legs could carry him. Finding that the enemy had no intention of returning, the second Indian after a time descended, and, resuming their guns, the two proceeded together to the encampment where they both had their home. As they were on the way, the unlucky hunter, filled with alarm in anticipating the ridicule he would meet with were his weakness under prospect of death proclaimed to the tribe, exerted himself in the most munificent offers to his companion, in the hope of purchasing his silence ; and he did at length succeed in extracting a promise of secrecy, but only by the sacrifice of everything he possessed in the world of the slightest luxury or value. Stripped of all but the bare necessaries of life, the poor fellow could yet be happy — his self-respect was saved. But, as might be imagined, the man who could take so base an advantage of a friend's misfortune was not likely to prove a trustworthy guardian of the secret he had sworn to preserve. Not many months afterwards, this worthless villain, as he came staggering through the camp in one of his accustomed fits of drunkenness, began loudly to proclaim the story of his friend's disgrace, and hold him up to the bitterest contempt and ridicule. The outraged Indian went straight into his tent and armed himself with a loaded gun, then returning co the place where the knave was littering his scandals, he took aim at him in sight of all the people, and shot him tlu'ougli his traitorous heart.] iM P CHAPTER XVIII. It lii t 1 \ 1 jil ^kk ■k '*i4i.i '■ "H FORT PITT TO FORT CARLTON. November Stk. — About mid-day we took leave of the warmth aud shelter of Fort Pitt, and resumed our cheerless journey. We were now much better equipped for enduring the cold, having provided ourselves with a considerable stock of winter clothing. My men were all in their new attire : — white flannel leggings drawn over their trowsers and gartered below the knee ; moccasins of enormous size, stuffed with Avraps of blanketing ; thick white or blue capots over their leather shirts. There were fur caps, too, in great variety : M'Kay had chosen a round one of otter-skin, M'Beath a muff-shai)ed bear- skin ; Kline, Matheson, and Toma wore tlie entire skins of foxes, coiled round their l)road-brimmed felt hats. My own cap was of marten, with mink under the ear-pieces — but I am anticipating, this was made for me at Carlton a few days afterwards. Duncan appeared in a white capot witli a hood — so transfigured that I hardly knew liim. We were all furnished with leather mittens, of course ; — roomy, flannel- lined, fingerless gloves, which we carried slung round our necks, that our hands might be slipped in and out as cir- cumstances liappened to require. For my own benefit I had invented a special luxury, consisting of a pair ot immense buftalo-robe boots, with the hair inside, very wide and long, so as to draw easily over everything and come a CHAI'. XVtII. FORT PITT TO FORT CARLTON. 293 good way above the knee. While new I thought them masterpieces, for they were exceedingly warm and comfort- able, but perpetual scorchings from our liuge camp-fires burnt and shrivelled them by degrees into much less con- venient proportions. The horses all looked vastly the better for their long rest ; and so did old Lagrace, who, when he arrived at the Fort, was rather suffering from the effects of the journey, which had ' ne hard on a man of )iis age. Instead of pack- sadd we re now provided i^.i horse-sleds, as these conveyances were generally called. Their construction is of the simplest nature, nothing more than three thin elastic boards, turned up in front with a strong curve, and firmly fastened together, so as to form a platform about ten feet long, by one and a half wide. A single horse works each of them in shafts, and draws a considerable load without diffi- culty. Carts cannot travel in the snow, for at every turn the wheels clog up with ice, and keep sliding about instead of revolving in the usual manner. The river being entirely frozen over, we availed ourselves of the winter road, which by crossing and recrossing cuts off a large bend, and offers the advantage of saving about lialf- a-dozen miles. In most places the snow was at least a foot in depth, but the day was so fine that we made excellent progress all the same, not stopping till we arrived at the Red-deer Hills, where we halted and camped for the night. Mr. Isbister joined us at supper, and stayed with us till the following morning. He had travelled from the Fort in a dog-sleigh of his own, drawn by four very handsome dogs, — for whom he had been offered a pair of good horses, but he knew the value of his team too well to part with it. Some distance on the way he had overtaken an old Indian ri'' H ■i i 294 FORT PITT ciur. XVIII. 'ii ^ < 1 i ^ V " woman in great distress and perplexity. She was making a jouraey with two dogs drawing their " travaux," * and had halted for the night, when to her alarm she found herself unable to kindle a fire, through the failure of all her matches. Nothing apparently remained for her but to sleep in the snow, without fire, and almost without clothing — a pitiable situation indeed, as the cold was extreme and a snow-storm beginning to come on. Strange to say, Mr. Isbister had no matches with him, but to make up for the disappointment he very kindly Tent her his buffalo robe. Indians can always light a fire with flint and touchwood, matches, how- e^^er, are apt to puzzle them ; probably the old woman had made some ignorant mistake, and thus destroyed the store on which her life depended. November 9th. — ' We set out in the teeth of a snow- storm drifting furiously before a high north wind — the cold intense. M}^ beard and moustaches were frozen harder than ever before ; my left eye liad an icicle hanging from the eyelashes : I expected to be frost-bitten, and kept rubbing my nose and ears continually — it was positive suffering. It is melanclioly to think that more than a month of this hardship lies before us, between this and Fort Garry. Then a fortnight more of it to St. Paul — fi '^ nature shrinks — all work and sorrow, small hope of sport, notliing new or curious to be seen — mere labour, labour, labour. * C'atlin thus describes the