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"k .0- / y THE NORTHERN TRAVELLER; r^-'.^i CONTAINING THE ROUTEt TO THE SPRINGS, NIAGARA, QUEBEC, AND THE COAL MINES; i t WITH THE TOUR OF NEW-ENGLANDJ AND A BRIEF GUIDE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS, AND SOUTHERN AND WESTERN R9UTES. BY THEODORE DWIGHT, Jr. SIXTH EDITION. WITH EIGHTEEN MAPS, AND NINE LANDSCAPES. •^ I JOHN P. HAVEN, BOOKSELLER. PUBLISHER, AND STATIONER, 1 99 B roadway. ^4. ./ Entered nocordiiig to Act of Congress, in the year 1841, by John P. nAVP:N, /' lu the Clerk's Omcc of the ?outhe:-n District of New- York. \ PREFACE. This Sixth Edition of the Northern Traveller is pub- lished when the previous editions have been for some time out of print; so that it seemed to be urgently demanded. The work has undergone a most thorough revision, as the numerous and important changes in the country required. The traveller will find in it a larger amount of informa- tion than at any former period, as the matter hns been much condensed, almost every page has received some ad- dition or abridgement, and large portions have been wril- te 1 anew, i'erfect accuracy is hardly to be expected in a work comprising such a number and variety of details, many of which are of a changeable nature: but exertions have been made to render it accurate, as well as replete with information and suggestions best adapted to the convenience, gratification and improvement of the mass of intelligent travellers. Notices of pla^'es or objects* appropriate to the sphere of this work, tn»nsmitted by pe''sons in any part of the country, will be attended to in future editions of the IV PREFACE. Northern Traveller ; fis the author has reaumod his ori^i- nal intention, formed after travelling abroad, of furnishing a Guide Book for the principal routes in his own country, keeping pace with the progress of society and public im- provements. i} > r lis ongi- irnishing country, ublic ivcx" »• .HfX?4YlL.y-%.\ ..« •A'. ,,y y y \i J f'nmi' V .^ * V iiy/,„jj ..y. S^ ^♦j m ' I <( << << t< GENERAL INDEX. City of New York, • • * 7 Route up the Hudson, • • • 13 " to Niagara, • • • 32 Routes to Ohio, &c. 6' r, 221 Route from Albany to the Springs, 31,74 *' to Lake George, • * ■ 88 " to CanMb, • • • 104 Tour of NetJKngland, 141 Route up Co™ecticut River, m • * 145 " from New York to Boston, • • > 166 " " Boston to the White Mountains, 186 " " Boston to Maine, • • i 203 PJnladelphia, .... • • . 223 Route to the Pennsylvania Coal Mines, . 227 Baltimore J .... • • . 220 Washington, .... • • i 215 Route to the Virginia Springs. • • 1 239 Routes from New-Orleans to Neto- York, . . 241 1^' li-: I "^ VII. US FROM NATURt:. 1. Frontispiece, View of Niagnni from below Table Rock. 5. Scenery on Mohawk River, fusing pngri 3. Ballston Springs 4. Saratoora Springs 5. Lake Genrcjo .... 6. Piiins of Ticonderocn from the east 7. The same from Mount Independence 8. Southerly view from Mount Holyokc 9. The Notch House, White Mountains l^AGiJ 35 82 84 no 100 104 156 195 MAPS Of the Roads, Canals, Railroads, ^c. PAGE General Map of the Routes in the Northern States, No. 1. Hudson River, from the mouth to Croton River, No. 2. " " to Kmgston No. 3. " " to Albany No. 4. Mohawk River to Utica, with a Profile of the Erie Canal No. 5. " " to Syracuse No. 6. Thence to Cayug:a Lake . No. 7. Thence to Canandaigua No. 8. Thence to Rochester and Batavia No. 9. Thence to Niagara . No. 10. Buffalo and its vicinity, with a Profile of the Welland Canal Noll. To Glenn's Falls, with Saratoga Springs and Battle Ground, Schenectady and Pro- file of the Champlain Canal No. 12. Lake George No. 13. Do. Northern part and Lake Champlain No. 14. Lake Champlain, northern part No. 15. St. John's, Montreal, &c. . , No. 16. Montreal Island Connecticut River, lower part . . 14 16 21 32 32 44 45 46 48 62 30 88 98 108 110 118 145 Il a pi the I dene steal Non the ands Sprii cut 1 bany pecte wher boat Fo city 1 Ot lyn t( Bost( tend( Tb Albai ty, P bush the ^ Cline THfi NORTHERN TRAVELLER. THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. Remarks to the Travtller at New- York. It is recommended to such travellers as have not formed a plan for their journeys, to turn to the general map o( the routes, page 1. He may go to Boston by the Provi- dence steamboats and railroad, or by the Stonington steamboats and railroad through Providence, or by the Norwich steamboat and railroad through Worcester, or by the New-Haven steamboat, the railroad to Hartford, and stagecoach to Worcester, or steamboat or stagecoach to Springfield railroad. Those who wish to see Connecti- cut river may take a steamboat to Hartford. For Al- bany, take a steamboat. Before 1342, a railroad is ex-* pected to be in use from Bridgeport, Con. to Albany^ when that route may be preferred by some. A steam* boat goes to Bridgeport. For Philadelphia, take the railroad line from Jersey city by crossing the Hudson from Barclay-street. Other rail-roads are to be made : one from South Brook* lyn to Greenport, east end of Long Island, to cross to the Boston railroads. The Harlem railroad is to be ex* tended to Albany, 140 miles. The proposed route of a railroad from New-York to Albany, (147 3-4 miles,) runs through Westchester coun- ty, Putnam, Dutchess and Columbia counties to Green- bush opposite Albany, and on to Troy. It passes along the valleys of the Bronx, Croton, Ten m. r. Ancram, Cline, and a branch of Kinderhook. It is nearly straight^ 9 ,' ' ■• . ! « » f 8 THE CITT or NKW-TORK. except where it approaches Hudson, and is from 15 tio» 25 miles east of the river. This route avoids the High- lands, except at a poir... where they arc only 769 feet above tide : that is, 50 miles northeast of West Point. Maximum gratle 30 feet, and locomotives can pass at 12' miles an hour. The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map of New-York and oiher cities as ho visits them. The principal objects worthy of attention will be here mentioned in order, as they present themselves to a per- son proceeding north from the southern point of the city. The Battery, perhaps the finest public walk in the Union, is the favourite retreat in warm weather. It is ex- posed to the sea breeze, and affords an agreeable shade^. and a view of the inner harbour, with part of Long Island, on the left, Governor's Island with its fort and castle, the Narrows, and Staten Island below, Bedlow's and Gib- bet Islandf, and New-Jersey beyond them, with Jersey City and Hoboken village. Castle Garden is a place of refreshment, formed of a fort, where music and fireworks are often provided in warm evenings. A fort was built on the Battery in 1623, which included all the houses. It was afterwards enlarged. Southeast of the Battery is Whitehall Slip, where are the steam-boat ferries for Staten Island (12 cents,) and South Brooklyn, (4 cents.) Washington and Greenwich- streets begin at northwest corner, extending about two miles north. There are the steamboats of the Philadelphia railroad line, and those for Providence. Broadway begins at the Bowling Green, an oval piece of ground, 140 feet by 220. Here are the Atlantic and Adelphi Hotels, and many hotels and fashionable board- ing houses above. Grace Church, on the left, stands on the corner of Rector-street, which leads to the Havre packets. Trinity Church is rebuilding. Wall-street is opposite, and has most of the banks and brokers' offices. The new U. S. Custom-house, corner of Nassau-street, is of white marble, 89 feet by 177, on the model of the Par- thenon of Athens, with two facades with Doric columnSf 32 feet high, a central ball, and a dome 62 feet in diame- tier. It will cost half a million. The New-York Exchange, entirely of Quincy Si«-^ Tilt THE CITY OF NEW-yORK. f) liite, three stories high, and a basement, covers a block, ber.wecn four streets, unci is 197 feot 7 inches on Wall- street, 144 on one sid«^, and 170 oa thu other, with a large dome abo.e, 100 feet high. This covers the circu- lar exchange room, 05 feet high, and 80 in diameter. In front is a row of 12 Ionic columns, with G more at the door. The shafts are single stones, 132 feet 8 inches long, and from 4 feet to 4 feet 4 inches in diamntor at the base, those on the wings weighing about 33 tons, and the others 35. Each cost about $5,000. The building, which is nearly complete, contains Mr. Gilpin's News Room and Packet Otfice, several insurance and other offices. The Telegraph is to be kept on the top to communicato with that on Staten Island. The great tire, in 1835. des- troyed the former Exchange, but did not cross Wall- street. It swept down to Old Slip. Proceeding up Broadway, you pass Cedar and Court- landt-streets, which lead on the left to some of the Albany steam-boats, and the ferry to Jersey City, 6 cents. (Thence the railroads lead to Newark, 25 cents, EH- zabethtown, Rahway and New-Brunswick to Philadel- phia; also to Paterson. Fulton-street leads (right) to Fulton Market, Brooklyn Ferry, (3 cents,) the Connecti- cut and Flushing steamboats, some of the Liverpool pac- kets, &c. At the corner of Vesey-street is St. Paul's Church, with an epitaph in front to Gen. Montgomery, whose re- mains were brought there from Quebec in 1818. Oppo- site is the American Museum with four stories filled with stuffed animals, &c. Ann-street leads to the rooms of the Reformed Dutch Church Missionary Society, Episco- pal Sabbath School Society; American Bible Society ; De- pository and Printing Office ; Clinton Hall, where are the Mercantile Library, (20,000 vols.) reading and lecture room, and exhibition room of the National Academy of Design; American Tract Society ; American Sunday School Union Depository ; and American Board of Foreign Mis sions. In Chatham Row are the Park Theatre and the Brick Church. The Park, (10 3-4 acres,) contains the City Hall, (216 feet by 105,) of white marble, and rear of free- stone, cost $538,734, with roonas for courts, commoa M f ir ' 10 TH^ CITY or KIW-TORK. council, mayor, governor, &c. and several portraits, and Mechanics' Institute in the basement. The alarm-bell is hung above, and the cupola commands a general view of the city. The New City Hali contains the Americau Institute of Manufactures, which holds a splendid fair and exhibition at Niblo's in September. In Chambers-street are the Savings Bank, the Arcade Baths, and the Reservoir of the Manhattan Company, which supplies some of the streets with water. Returning down Broadway to Park Place, we find Co- lumbia College, founded in 1750 as King's College, — President Duer. Behind it is the Grammar School, Professor Anthon. Above the Park, Duane-street leads on the ri^ht to the Halls of Justice, the City Prison, built of Sienito in the Egyptian style. Gothic Hall is. near Pearl-street, opposite which is the City Hospital, founded in 1769. The Society Library, comer of Leon- ard-s*reet, 1754. Franklin-stieet leads on the left to the Opera House and French Church, originally in Pine-; street, 1704. (Hudson Park is some distance north wegt from tlaa spot, 4 acres, with St. John's Church, 240 feet.) In White-street, (right from Broadway,) is the City Dispensary, 1790, with the Eye and Ear Infirmaries, 1820. Canal-street has a sewer underground, and on the right from Broadway are the Gas Light Company's works, pipes, 26 miles long, and a Jews' Synagogue. There are 10 or 11 other Synagogues, most of them recently formed by emigrants from Bavaria, &c. The Manhattan Gas Works are at the foot of Eighteenthnstreet. Above are the Circus and Tattersalls' ; above Springs street Niblo's Garden. Opposite, the New-York Lyceum of Natural History with a fine collection. The Stuyve- sandt Institute is several streets above, with the Library of the Historical Society. In Crosby-street behind Nib- lo's, are the Apprentices' Library, 1820, with 20,000 vol- umes, the School of the Mechanics' Society, a Synagogue, and the College of Physicians and Surgeons. Fourth-street leads to Washington Square, 9 3-4 acres. The New York University fronts it, 1831, Chancellor Frelinghuysen. It has a large grammar school. The de fii di w raits, and irm-bell is il view of Americau id fair and he Arcade Company, e find Co- College, — ir School, ;reet leadg ty Prison, ic Hall is. Hostpital, r of Leon- left to the jr in Pine-! from this l) the City ntirmaries, and on the ly's works, rhere are y formed Eittan Gas e Spring-; i Lyceum Stuyve- e Library hind Nib- 0.000 vol- ynagogue, 3-4 acres, hancellor ol. The tHK CITY OF NKW-YORIC. U Presbytorian Theological Seminary is above, and has the library of Leiirider Van Ess. The Marble Cemetery is in Great Jones-street, east of Broadway. The City Reservoir is in Thirteenlh-^feet. Water is raised by a steam engine from a well IV2 feet deep, and conveyed to the south in pipes, to extinguish fires without the use of fire engines. The Croton Aque- duct, 45 miles long, to supply drinkable water to the whole city, is partly made, inrt will cost 45 millions. The Retreat for Juvenile Delinquent:* is at the end of Broadway; the Deaf and Dsimb Asylum, 1817, Fiftieth- street, near the Harlem railroad, Mr. Peet principal. The Blind Asylum, 1831, Sixth Avenue near Thirty-se- cond street, Mr. Jones. The General Episcopal Theolo- gical Seminary, 1819, Ninth Avenue and Twenty-tirst street. The Lunatic Hospital is six miles noith. The Almshouse is on the East river, and hcyond is Blarkwell's Island, with the Penitentiary and Lunatic Asylum, and the Poor House Farm opposite, with the School. The Orphan Asylum, Half Orphan Asylum, Institution for Aged Indigent Females, and 17 Public Schools. Hudson river was discc^'jred in 1609, by Henry Hud- son. First settlement by the Dutch, near Alhany, 1610, to trade with the Indians in furs. (This trace yielded above $50,000 in 1632.) First fort in New-York la 1612, near the corner of Broadway and Garden-street. In 1623, a large fort on the Battery, enclosing the village, the island having been purchased. Captured by the En- glish in 1664, retaken 1673, restored 1674. First post- rider to Boston, 1673, going once in three weeks. First stagecoach to Boston, 17:23, once a month. 1765 a Con- gress of delegates met. January 1776, the American army began to assemble for the defence of the city. August 26th, the Battle of Long Island, after which the British army occupied the city till eiid of the war. Sep- tember 21st, 492 houses burnt. Evacuated by the Bri- tish army and entered by Washington, November 25th, 1783. All the churches except one had been burnt or occupied by soldiers. 1785 Congress met in the old City Hall, whore the new Custom House is. 1789 VVashini^ton inaugurated President there. Free School Society incorporated 1805. J" 12 THE CITY OF fJEVV-TORK. I > m The Great Firo Decern 10, 1835, loss about eighicew millions. The latiluao ho City Hall is 40° 42' 40" N. Longitude 74-* 1' 8" Vy.tVom Greenwich. Excursions. Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from New-York in variout) directions. Manhattan Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also Long I»U and and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey. Brooklyn, on Long Island, opposite New-York, is the second city for size in the state, containing about 40,000 inhabitants. It enjoys a fine situation, good air, pure wa- ter, retirement, and shady streets. Th^ stranger should visit it. Carriages will take him from the ferries to any part. The view of New-York from Columbia-street, on the heights, is the finest to be found. The Lyceum, Washington-street, contains a fine lecture room, the collection of the Natural History Society, City Library, and Savings Dank. The Navy Yard, one mile northeast from it, is worthy of a visit. There is the Na-- val Lyceum, with a fine collection of natural history, &c. Greenwood Cemetery, two miles south of Brooklyn, is shady and picturesque, with sylvan lake, and a fine view from Mount Washington. You pass Gowannis Cove, the scene of most bloodshed in the battle of Long Island in 1776. The Jamaica railroad begins at the South ferry. Fort Hamilton is four miles south of Brooklyn. Fort Lafayette is on a small island below it. Opposite is Staten Island^ commanding fine views. Prince's Linn^ean Garpen at Flushing. The excur-^ sion to this beautiful garden and nursery is very pleasant. The steamboat leaves Fulton-street slip at four o'clock in the afternoon eveiy day, and affords a view of the most interesting pans of the East river, including the famous rapids at Hell Gate. The village is small, bull pleasant. The garden of Mr. Prince will supply strangers of taste and science with rare seeds, plants, flowers and trees, and has already done much to introduce useful and beautiful varieties into this country. It was first esta- blished about the middle of the last century. The four hothouses contain about 20,000 plants in pots t and the garden covers about thirty acres. The species und varieties of trees and plants amount to about 8000/ THZ HUDSON RIVER. 13 lit eighteen QO 42' 40" inn may be Manhattan lo Lung Ittl'' * Ifork, 19 the 30ut 49,000 ir, pure wa- nger should jrries to any ia-^tieet, on I fine lecture Society, City rd, one mile e i» the Na-' listory, &c< Brooklyn, is i a fine view is Cove, the ng Island in ferry. Fort jrt Lafayette aten Island, The excur-' iry pleasant. Ifour o'clock view of the Including the small, but) ily strangers flowers and le useful and 13 first esta" ints in pots f [The species about 8000^ which Is considered the most numerous collection in Ame- rica. Tlio proj)riotor exert:* hinisclf to obtain all the na- tive productions, us well as all interesiing exotics, and for j«pccimens forwarded to him he otl'ers Ui make satisfactory returns from his own collection. Thompson's History of Long Island, and the Picture of Now-Vork will bo inte- resting to trovellers of taste. Hath, Uockaway, and Gravesend, on Long Island, and L()N(J Branch, in New-Jersey, fine situations on the Beacoast, arc among the most attractive for buihing, &c. Orangk Springs, near Newark, and Scholey's Mountain, are resorts during the warm seasons, particu- larly fi)r visiters from New-York. The situations are very pleasant, in variegated tracts of country, and afford a most agreeable retreat, with fine air and good accommodations. PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER. On leaving New-York, the traveller finds himself in the midst of a fine and varied scene. The battery lies behind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams projecting beyond ; still more distant opens the p ..sage called the Narrows, with Stalen Island on the right, lead- ing to Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 miles from the city. On the west side of the bay are Bedlow and Gibbet Islands, with fortifications ; the point at the mouth of the Hudson is Powles' Hook, on which stands a neat town in New-Jersey called Jersey City ; and the village of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the river. The hills of Wehawken appear beyond: as the boat moves rapidly on, it passes the crowded line of build- ings in Washington-street, the Ep scopal Seminary, and, at a greater distance, the Blind Institution. At Wehawken, under a ledge oi rocks facing the river, and about the distance of three miles from the city, is the spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel with Colonel Burr. This v as the common duelling ground for combatants from this city, and many lives were afterwards lost on the fatal spot. The Pal IS ado Ks — a remarkable range of precipices of trap rock, which begin near this place, extend up the rirer on the west side twenty miles, to Tappan, and form li FORT WASHIKdTOlt. i: .1' i n 8in<^u1ar, and in muny places an impaflsablc boundary. In some placns an old red aands^tone foundation is seen bolow : but the great mass of the rocks presents the mu- ral precipices of the trap formation, and rises fn)m thte heijifht of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. On the opposite side li Yorkville, and the route of the tmfinished Croion Aqueduct. The Lunatic Asylum, about seven miles from the city, is a larj^e building of hewn stone, occupying a command- ing situation. Harlkm Heights are a short distance further. They form an elevated ridg^o across Manhattan Island, on which a line of fortifications was thrown up during the Revolu- tion and the late war, quite over to the East river. Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is situated on the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 feet above the river. A village of the same name is near. Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from New-York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washington had evacuated the city, and, subsequently to the battle of While Plains, (for which see just beyond,) had drawn off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept gar- risoned, contrary to his advice, and was attacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Waldeckers, under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north side; Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light infantry and guards, intended against the intrenchmenta, which reach- ed almost to the East river. Col. Sterling made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while Lord Percy with a very strong corps was to operate against the western flank. The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in pass- ing a swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions, in driving the Americans into this fort, where they all sur- rendered, to the number of 2C00 men, including militia. They had lost very few; but the British lost about 800. Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the British crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they took the artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the Ameri- can army. Battlk of Whitb Plains. In October, 1776, soon after the American troops had evacuated New-York, while General Washington had his army assembled at Kingi- ible boundary, dntion h seen psonts the mu- 'ises from ihte ijppMsitesideis Hon Aqueduct. I from the city, g a cornmatid- unher. They and, on which ig the Revolu- river. is situated on feet above the top of a high 12 miles from Washington to the battle ,) had drawn vas kept gar- icked in four under Gen. side; Gen. infantry and which reach - de a feint of Vrcy with a 'Stern flank. len in pass- ivisions, in ley ail sur- "ng militia. )ut 800. the British y took the the Ameri- 776, soon ork, while at Kingf- v bl US 861 i r HEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 15 bridge, and the British were in possession of the island up as far as Harlem, General Howe went up the East river, with an intention of surrounding the Americans. He left his German corps at New-Rochello, and marched for the high ground at White Plains, several miles east of the Hudson, to seize the interior road between the city and Connecticut. Washington penetrated his design, and entrenche i him- fielf on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White Plains. He had garrison? near Harlem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till th'3 British approached very near ; when Washington assembled all his troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, with the Bronx in front and on the right flank, and a mountainous region in the rear. I'he right was more ac- cessible; and General M'Dougal was sent to entrench himself on a mountain about a mile in front. On the morning of October 28th, the Biitish advanced in two columns : the right led by Clinton, and the left by Gen. Heister. The former took post on the Mamaroneck road, and the latter on the Bronx,— ^the armies h «ing a mile distant. Col. Ralle, with a Hessian regiment, fell u^on Gen. M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front with a brigade. The miiiiia soon fled, but the regular troops resisted until overpowered. Washington, therefore, retired to North Castle ; and soon after, securing the bridge over the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed the Hudson. Fort Independence, on the east side. Opposite, the Palisadoes are of still greater height. Dobb's Ferry, 10 miles farther Tappan Bay is from three to five miles wide, eight or nine in length. Haver- straw Bay, still larger, lies just above. Tappan, 25 miles from New-York. Here Major An- dre was executed, after a short imprisonment. Here will begin the New-York and Erie Railroad, which is to extend through Goshen, Deposit, Binghampton, Owego, Elmira, Corning, Hornellsville, and Clean, to Dunkirk on Lake Erie, 457 miles. It is thought that the whole distance from New York to Dunkirk, by a branch from the Harlem railroad, will be only 475 miles, and that it will cost but $6,000,000. Two branches are in operation, !? » i.V f i \i »:■ . I E. J ■■■■' i Fl I I ;^; il 16 STATE PRISON AT SINGS ING. -viz. the Ithaca and Owego railroad, 29 miles ; and the Corning and Blossburg, Pennsylvania, railroad, 40 miles. Tarrytown, three and one half miles. This is the place where Major Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British lines. The place was then neutral ground, as the Ameri- cans and English lay encamped above and below. The tree was recently standing under which his captors search- ed him, and the bank near by concealed thent from his view as he approached them. The State PrUon at Singsing is in a quadrangle of nearly 44 by 480ft. on the eastern shore, 33 miles from New-York. It has a double stack of cells built back to l)ack, four tiers high and 200 on each tier: in all 800. J^ine feet distance is the outer wall, which supports a gallery running all around; size of ttie cells, three feet six inches by seven feet, and two feet door way. The whole work was done by convicts, and a great pirt is of hewn stone. The system is that of the Auburn prison. The convicts are employed in quarrying marble from the hill, and in other kinds of labour. The Entrance of the Highlands, is a short distance beyond this place, and 40 miles from New York This is a region no less remarkable for the important military events of which it has been the theatre, than for the grandeur and nobleness of its natural scenery. Stony Point The little rough promontory on the left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, •was a fortified position during the American war. The British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again the same year. Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also the site of a fort. FOHT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON, five miles further, on the west. These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, or the sixth of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate with Gen Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by Gen. Gates near Se-^toga, and to afford him an opportunity to force his way to Hudson river, by effecting adiversicm in im favour. For this purpose Sir H. Clinton had left New* '-> JVi-r/ft 3 ; and thft i, 40 miles. fhis ia the irning from the British the Ameri- elow. The (tors search- jm from hi* aadrangle of miles from uilt back to in all 800. supports a hree feet six The whole is of hewn on. marble from [lort distance kfork This ant military ban for the tory on the Highlands, war. The lost it again fSiS also the JNTON, iton, or the co-operate |hed by Gen. )ortunity to I i version in left New- //... ;,. w ^ il 'W^ 'k KEW-TORK TO ALBANY. Iv York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the fleet, and landed at Verphinck's Point. The next morning a detach- ment was sent to Stony Point, and marched ronnd in the rear of these forts, then under the command of Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, part of whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia. Gen. Putnam, apprised of the landing made at Vep- planck's Point, and supposing the object of the expedition to be Fort Independence, had crosised the river, and made preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their real intentions until he had heard the firing at forts Mont- gomery and Clinton, which are near each other, and were attacked at the same moment. The fighting began be- tween four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted- til) dark, when the Americans having lost about 250 men,- the forts were surrendered ; but all the garrison who were able, about 450, effected their escape, with the governor and his brother, len. James Clinton. The British pro- ceeded to West Point, removed' the chain which had been stretched across the river to prevent the passage of their ships; and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wallace, went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan and his troops. Although they found the village defenceless, the officer's ordered it to be burnt, on the l^lh of October. The Bri- tish proceeded no further than that pi' ce ; for the news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days after- wards> the fleet returned to Nev/ York. Anthony's Nose. This mountain (which has a pro- file resembling the human face,) rises 1228 feet from the river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery Creek, looking down upon forts Montgomery and Clinton. Be- hind the latt*'r is Bloody Pond, where the bodies of those were thrown who were killed in the defence. As the steamboat proceeds up the river, West Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with the ruins of Fort Putnam elevated on a commanding eminence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the water level. Thi' view it com- mands over this wild and mountainous neighbourhood, as well as its connexion with our history, will render it wor- thy of a visit. Therp are still three or four subterraneous rooms to be seen, and the place is so often visited,, that ^ ll 18 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. f i the path is plain, and leads to most of the principal objects within it. This fortress commanded at once the river above and below West Point, and the passage into a defi. . which opens through the mountains westward. That de- file was farther defended by numerous little batteries and redoubts on the peaks around it. Kosciusko's Retreat is near this place, and the spot is still shown where he cultivated his little garden. A monument erected to him, will be seen on the rocks. West Point. This was a military position of great consequence in the Revolutionary war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the point, just over the river, to command the channel, while a strong iron chain was stretched across from the shore below, to the opposite side. On the east side of the river is Cold Spring , behind it is the West Point Foundry. There is a tine hotel on the point. The Military Academy of the United States is at West Point ; and a more delightful situation for such an institution could hardly have been selected. It is designed for the instruction of young men destined for the army ; and secondarily for maintaining the military science of the country. The Academy was established in 1802, by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the instruction of Cadets The number of pupils is confined to 250 ; and in choosing from the applicants, the sons of revolutionary officers are allowed the first claim, and those children of officers of the last war whose fathers are dead, the next. The law prohibits admission under 14 years of age. The level on which the buildings of this institution are erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the ap- pearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The libra- ry consists of a large and valuable collection of books, on the various branches of military science, which have been obtained with great assiduity and no small expense from Europe. The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; all large, and built of stone. There are, besides, brick build- ings for the officers and professors ; near the water, some old military store houses, which contain arms, &c. used in the revolution. The course of study is completed in four years, each being c em WEST POINT. 19 incipal objects )nce the river ^e into a defi. > ird. That de- e batteries and , and the spot le garden. A ;he rocks, ition of great L battery was ver the river, on chain was the opposite yoid Spring, lere is a line TED States situation for lected. It is 3tined for the litary science led in 1802, nstruction of 250 ; and in evolutionary B children of d, the next. age. stifution are has the ap- . The libra- 3f books, on h have been pense from tre five ; all brick build- k^ater, some &c. used ^earS; each being devoted to a c^ass; and inchidcs the French lan- guage, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy, c lemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and national law, mathematics in the highest branches, and lastly, artillery and engineering. Study concludes each day at four P. M. and is sue* ceeded by the parade, wh^ch lasts till sunset. Arnold's Treachery. In September, 1780, while the British hold possession of Hudson river up to the bor- ders of the Highlands, and Gen Arnold was in command here, a correspondence was carried on by him with the British officers, on the subject of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring their designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a meeting should be h'^id. Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the conference, A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating about an ho- nourable treaty with Great Britain; and he accompanied Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long Clove, on the west side of the river. Here they found Gen. Ar- nold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to ap- pointment. Daylight put it ou'„ of the power of Major Andre to- pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Stony Points. He was therefore obliged to retire to Smith's hoube, and change his dress for a disguise. Arrest of Major Andre. General Arnold had fur- nished him with a pass under the name of John Anderson } and on the following evening he set out by land, accom- panied by Smith as a guide. They rode that night to McKoy's after going eight or nine miles } and the next he spent at Pine's Bridge, over Croton river. Here he parted with Smith, and proceeded alone six miles, when, as he had passed the American lines, and was approaching those of the British, he was discovered by three men, wha were concealed from him behind a bank ; and one of them suddenly stepping from under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bridle. They found in his boots a description of the works at West Point, with returns of 3 u 20 NiW-TORK TO ALBANY. P all tho forcos of the garrison, in the hand- writing" of Arnold. This happened on the 23d of September. A messenger was immediately sent to General Washington ; and, at A.idre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold to inform him that Anderson was taken. The lat- ter messenger arrived first ; and Arnold, as soon as ho learned the truth, rushed down a very steep hank, sprang into his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board the Vulture. His Execution. On the 29th of September a board of officers was appointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced him to suffer death as a spy. Objections were made to this sentence, on the ground that Andre had beer^ introduced into the American ramp under the passport of one of our officers ; but the delivery of Arnold being mado the condition of his release, and that being refused by the British, he was kept in prison until the 2d of October, when he was hung at the town of Tappan, where his body was afterwards inteiTed. A few years since the British government sent to this country to obtain his remains, which were removed to England, and placed in the family vault of the then Prince Regent. In 1827, the corporation of New-York erected a monument over the grave of Paolding, one of his captors. At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe several remarkably high mountains on both sidej of the river, for which he is referred to the map. Putnam's Rock weis- rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a party of soldiers directed by Gen. Putnam. Newburgh. This is a town of considerable &ize, six miles beyond the Highlands, with some handsome build- ings. Newburgh is advantageously situated for the eye of one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill which slopes handsomely to the shore. Half a mile south of the village is seen the old stone house in which Gen. Washington had his head quarters when the celebrated' " Newburgh Letters " were published. Matteawan Factory, Fishkill. It stands near the- river, and directly opposite Newburgh. -writing of . messenger 1 ', and, at to A mold The lat- soon a» ho ink, sprang im on board p a board of Andre, and 'ctions were re had beer^ passport of being made refused by of October, re his body sent to this removed to then Prince rk erected his captors. rve several e river, for Rock was by a party le aize, six fome build- eye of one hill which |e south of /hich Gen. celebrated' Is near the' m CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 21 .lollllSlllWII 1''0UGHKEEPSIE is a placfi of considerable importancp, and is sifuiilod two miles east of \ho. river. KrNOSTON. Here begins the Delaware md Hudson canal, opened in 1827. Saugerti£S. Here is a large manufacturing place es- tablished by Henry BarcUlay, Ksq. of New York. By a large stone dam on Ksopus creek is obtained a supply of ■water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which may be twice used on great wheels. The Catskill Mountains. As the traveller proceeds, he observe*! the distant ridge of the Catskill mountains. They nowhere approach nearer to the river than eight miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. An excursion, to the summit of these mouritains may very properly be ranged among the principal objects in the great tour which we are just commencing. The visit may be accomplished in one day, though two or three may be agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the grand ■and beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbourhood. There is a large and commodious house of entertainment erected at the Pine Orchard, one of the peaks of the moun- tain, about 3,000 feet above the river. It is visible from the steamboat, and the ascent to it is performed without fatigue, in private carriages or a stagecoach. The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca. Taking the stage- coach here, you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, pass- ing an inn at the distance of seven miles, and then begin- ning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road, that affords much wild scenery, and many a glimpse at the surrounding country.* Five milet of such travelling l)rings th '. visiter to The Pine Oochard. This is a small plain, 3,000 feet above the river, scattered with forest trees, and furnished with an elegant house of great size, built for the accom- modation of visiters. The Hudson is seen winding from afar through its verdant valley, its margin adorned with villages, and its surface enlivened with vessels of various descriptions. Immediately below is seen a region of un- * The forests of this mountainous region furnish immRnse quantities of the bark used iu tanning leather; and many tan- >ueries are in operation in this couotj. r-i- !-| •! I ! 18 THR CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. cultivated monntaina, which is strikingly contrnstod with tho charming nsprct of rnrtiiiiy that reigns boyond, and presents uU ihc variety of hill and vale, town, hamlet and cottage. The Round Top is a summit of greater elevation to- wards the south, from which the view is more extensive. It is 3,718 feet above tho ocean. Ojj the west side of the river is seen part of the counties of Albany, (Tioene, Ulster and Orange; and on the ea^t, part of Putnam county, and all of Dutchess, Columbia and Rensselaer. The distant high land in the east be- longs partly to TaughkannUc and Saddle Mountains in Mussachusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green Moun- tains in Vermont. Lower down is discovered a range of hills in tho western counties of Connecticut. The eye embraces a tract of country about 100 miles in length, and 50 in breadth ; and a large part of it is supposed, by geologists, to have formed the bed of a great lake in some long past age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the barrier presented at the Highlands, before tho present chasm had been cut for its passage. Nearly opposite is seen tl.ci old Livingston Manor, which is one of the few great aristocratical estates exist- ing in this part of the country. It originally contained Clermont, (14,000 acres,) the Manor (146,000) and East Camp or Palatine, (6,000.) This last was settled by exiles from the Palatinate in the reign of Queen Anne. The Cascades. West from the Mountain House a path leads through the woods to the cascades, passing near two small lakes, from wh'ch the supply of water is derived. The stream flows through the woods to where the level termin ites, very abruptly, at a high and shelving preci- pice, descending into a tremendous gorge between ridges of gloomy mountains. The first fall is 175 feet, and the second 80 : both perpendicular, without a single protrud- ing rock to break the snow-white sheet. A building is erected where refreshments may be ob- tained ; and on the right is a steep path by which even ladies may descend in safety to the foot of the falls. Thelre is a cavern under the first cataract, where the shelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and 1 , ih ap CITY OF AtnAItY. 23 throws ft (lark shiidn nrnund him, which sctii off, in the most, bofiutifiil mannf'r, iho wild scenery below. The cavern i;* f'onned by the wearing away of the sandstone rocks, while the stratum of grawacke remains unim- pair(>d. At a little distance the stream takes its second leap into a dark abys^ ; and from a rock at that place, it is seen runhing tiimultuously along over a steep and focky channel, winding between the bases of the mountains iintil it gradually sweeps away toward the south, and dia* appears among the rude scenery that surrounds it. After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes like those, the traveller will return to Catskill to take the next steamboat; and by making the necessary ar- rangements, he can proceed up the river with very little delay. The City or Hudson, .5J miles above Catskill. This is one of the largest and most important towns on the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on the east- ern bank, with several ranges of large stores built near the water's level. On the brow of the ascent from the water is a favourite promenade, from which a charming view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite Catskill mountains. The western shore is variegated and beautiful, and contains the village of Athens. The railroad leads from Hudson to West Stockbridge, Mass. The Union road to New-Lebanon is a good one, and passes tlirough a varied, well cultivated and agreeable tra't of country. There are extensive manufactories in this vicinity. Claverack is a pleasant village a few miles from Hud- son. The Great Falls is a romantic cascade about nine miles from Hudson, near the old post route. ALBANY, 145 miles from New-York. Routes from Albany. Stagecoaches run daily towards all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight fre- quently set off in the same direction. Indeed the num- ber is often much greater than this when the full crowd 3* u LKBANON SPUlNGfl. , ■■ii ■\ of travellers is pressi.g towards this city. By steady travelling, you may go to Bufiulo in three days, 296 miles. Two or three steamboats go daily to New-York ; and boats go on the canal. The circuit and delays occa- sioned by the locks, make the passage to Schenectady consume a whole day The freight boats of the Trans- portation Companies are very numerous, and have been fitted up very comfortably for passengers, and convey them at a less price than the regular packets. For the route to Niagara, see page 32. For other routes, &c. see itidex. The Capitol, or State House, occupies a commanding; position at the head of State-street, and contains the Assembly and Senate Chambers, the Supreme Court, the County Court, &c. &c. It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 high. On the opposite side of the river is Greenbush, famous for more than a century as a canton- ment ; and the deserted lines of eutrenchment are clearly seen from the State House. This is the tirstpoint worthy of notice, connected with the colonial wars against Can- ada. At Greenbush, the troops supplied in quotas by the eastern colonies, used to meet those of New Yoik; and hence they proceeded, under commanders appointed by the British government, against their enemies m the north. The Academy and Female Institute are large in- Btitutions for the higher branches of education. LEBANON SPRINGS, 26 miles east from Albany. New-Lebanon Springs is one of the most delightful resoits for strangers, in point of situation, being in this respect incomparably superior to either of the great watering places, Saratoga and Ballston. Among all the places which might have been selected for an agreeable residence in the warm seasons, and calculated to please a taste for the softer beauties of nature, none perhaps could have been found more eligible than that we are about to describe. The village of New-Lebanon is situated in a little valley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from two ranges of high ground, descending with a rich and I LEBANON 8PRIKGS. 25 By steady I days, 296 New-York ; deluys occa- Schenectady r the Trans- d have been and convey ,8. For the routes, &c* 3onimanding contains the e Court, the length, 90 in 5 of the river as a canton- t are clearly point worthy against Can- uotas by the V Yoik; and ppointed by nies in the •e large in* n Albany. jt delightful 3ing in this the great long all the n agreeable d to please ne perhaps at we are in a little [spurs from la rich and graceful slope on every side to its borders. The valley is almost a perfect level, which contrasts agreeably with the bold sides of the uplands, son^e of which are divested of their forests, and ornamented with cultivated fields and farms, preswiting a rich variety to the eye wherever it turns. On the side of a hill about two miles east fi*om the village, and about half way to the summit of the ridge, issues out a Spring of clear warm water, which, although pO;ses3ed of no strong mineral qualities, has given the place its celebrity ; and there stands a fine and spacious hotel, to which the visiter will direct his course. In corning from the west, the Shaker Village opens just beyond the last turnpike gate ; and on approaching the hotel, it is better to take the road which turns off to the right, as the direct road up the hill is very steep and laborious A little arbour will be observed on the acclivity of the hill above the house, the path to which lies through the garden ; and there an uninterrupted view will be enjoyed over the surrounding landscape. A still more exten- sive one may be obtained from the summit of the hill, by following the road for a considerable distance up, and then turning off into the fields. But the former point of view will be most frequently taken by visiters, on account of the facility of access. On the southeast is the road to Northampton; southwest, the most exten- sive scene, and the road to the Shaker Village ; west, villaffe of New-Lebanon, and road to Albany and Troy; northwest, the side of a fine sloping hill, well cultivated, and near at hand. Distances. — To Albany, 26 miles ; Troy, 27. To Hart- ford, 69, Hudson, 28. The waters of the Spring are abundant, and much esteemed for bathing, always keeping the temperature of 72^ Fahrenheit, although they cannot be supposed to possess any mineral virtues, as may be inferred from an examination of the following analysis given by Dr. Meade, and quoted by Professor Silliman: Two quarts of the Lebanon water contain ■ : ( • 20 tEBANON SfftlNOJ. ?[ 'II ':| Mariatc of Hmo, 1 grain. Muriate of soda, 1^ Sulphate of limo, 1^ Carbonate of do. ^ Of Aeriform Pluids* Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic itit Atmospheric air, 8 do. 5 grains. 21 The Lebanon water is therefore purer than most natU' ral waters, and purer than those in the vicinity, which flow from the same hill. It resembles very much the Buxton water in England, though it is not quite so Warm; and the Bristol water is another example of tepid water almost entirely without mineral qualities. Pro^ fessor Silliman compares the scenefy about Lebanon Springs to that of Bath in England. The liouse at the Springs is very large, commodious and elegant ; and has accommodated 300 persons at one time. It stands close by the spring, and is furnished With baths supplied with the water. The old house mea- sures 90 feet, and the new one 120 feet long. They stand in the form of an L, with a fine piazza runs along them both, measuring 220 feet. From New-Leban'»n Springs to Troy, there is a very good road, through a variegated country. Distances as follows: to Nassau, 16 miles; thence to Troy, 11. From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and a stage- coach goes thither. The following is a table of distances on the road to Boston : Pittsfield 7 miles, Hinsdale 9, Peru 4, Worthington 6, Chesterfield 6, Northampton 13, Hadley 3, Amherst 4, Belchertovvn 7, Ware 6, Western 8, Brookfield 6, Spencer 7, Leicester 11, Worcester 6, Framingham 10, Boston 21 — 134. The Shaker Village, a few miles from the Springs, is an an object of attention to most visiters. The village itself presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, as it is situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with the utmost regularity Ihe fields are divided by right lines, fenced with the most substantial materials, and cultivated with great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading principle with the society, to allow of no private property ; all the possessions of those who join them are thrown into the common stocky and submitted at onco to their peculiar 1 I I i A CITY OF ALBANY. 27 i cubic Wi i do. L most natU" iniiy, which y much the ot quite so I pie of tepid lities. Pro^ tut Lebanon commodious rsons at one is furnished \ house mea- They stand , along them ?re is a very istances a» 11. nd a stage- of distances )rthington 6, 3, Amherst irookfield 6, lingham 10, the Springs, The village beauty, as lut with the right lines, [d cultivated |ng principle ;rty ; all the '11 into the leir peculiar «ystem of life and government. Celibacy they insist upon as indispensable ; and they profess to banish the love of wealth and ambition, as well as luxury in all its degrees, from all their territories. The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came from England some years ago, and established a small *' fam- ily," as they call it, which has been suixeeded by various similar institutions in different parts of the country. They regard that woman as nearly equal to the Saviour of the world ; and themselves as the only persons who have received that spiritual light which is ne- cessary to understand and practise the duty of man, that is, to renounce the pleasures of the world, and, by a life of self-denial, present a living testimony against error and wickedness. Their dress is ])lain, and their worship con- sists principally in a strange and disagreeable kind of dancing, whence they have their name, accompanied with a monotonous song. Some of their most experienced and perfect members, pretend to ** speak with tongues," heal diseases with a touch of the hand, and perform other miracles like the apostles. They consider the marriage contract as dissolved on joining the society. They pay great attention to the raising of garden seeds in most of their villages, as well as to several of the neat- er branches of manufacture, and derive from both a very handsome income, by making sales at home and in differ- ent parts of the country. Whoever has an opportunity to see this singular people, will probably feel gratified with their neatness, industry, and economy, but will perhaps leave the place with pity for some, and suspicion of others. The original settlement or family, is at Niscayuna, above Albany. ALBANY. The Albany Basin. The northern and western ca- nals unite at the distance of 8| miles from Albany, and terminate here, at a large basin, 4000 feet long. It has two or three handsome bridges, one with a draw to allow a passage for sloops, which leads from the foot of State- street. The pier which encloses the basin on the river fiide, is built of logs, and wide enough for a spacious l%:.l .mi k 1 28 ROUTES FROM ALBANT. li- streot. It is a place of depo3it for vast quantities of lumber. NORTH ROUTE FROM ALBANY. m ,'if . .: ' From Albany to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, the traveller may take the railroad route throuo^h Schenecta- dy, or ride to Troy, and take the railroad thence through •Lansingburgh nnd Waterford, which joins the latter at Bullston. For Luke Champlain, take a canal packet at Trf)y. For the west, a series of railroads to Buffalo is partly finished as far as Cariandaigua, 250^ miles. These are under different companies. At the other extremity of the line the Buffalo and Rochester railroad is in use to Ba- tavia, 32 miles. Description of a Canal Packet Boat, The length is 60 or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the din- ing room, where two rows of tables are set. At night, mattresses are s?pread on the seats each side, and another row above them on cots suspended from the roof. The ladies are accommodated with berths in the cabin, which is usually carpeted, hung with curtains, and in other re- spects more handsomely furnished. A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will serve to make the time pass agreeably, even if the travel- ler be a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In many places, the view from the deck is highly interesting ; but it cannot be too often recommended to the stranger to be- ware of standing on deck when approaching a bridge, and never to expose the head or hands out of a window. Rensselaerwyck. a fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, about a mile north of t!je centre of Albany is worthy of particular observation, as the seat of the late Hon. Stephen Van Rensselaer ; who bore the respected old Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of im- mense value, extending ten miles along ihe river, and double that distance east and west ; emoracing besides, a fine tract on the Black river, &c. It was formerly en- tailed, and secured by law to the oldest son of the family. U. States Arsenal, 5 | miles, at Watervleit. The i^round occupied by the arsenal extends from the •,5 TROT. 2» uantities of Y. Springs, the Schetiecta- nce through he latter at al packet at lo is partly These are extremity of in use to Ba- rhe length is ■d to the din- t. At night, and another ! roof. The cahin, which in other re- &c. will if the travel- In many resting ; but anger to be- bridsje, and ndow. pectable old e of Albany It of the late espected old e is of im- ) river, and ;ing besides, brmerly en- the family, eit. s from the •S road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal. The muskets are partly pucked in boxes, and partly ran<;od upright, with fixed hnyrinets, in compact order ; and pre- sent an appearance truly formidable. Thousands of pistols are hun^ over head ; those in the alternate linos standing different ways ; and swords with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally on wire hooks. The walls bear several devices formed of swords, pistols, &c. inge- niously arranged. This is the principal depot of arms and equipments in the northern states. The pajsngps and staircases are hung with drums, &c. On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillery, ^.nd va- rious sizes of shot, shells, &c. &c. In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on the north is devoted to work shops for the repair of arms, manufacturing locks, &c. The buildings on the south side are occupied by smiths and curpei.tcrs. Behind these is a handsome flower and fruit gaiden : the kitchen garden being on the north side of the grounds. lu the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There are 4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken at Saratoga; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown; two long antique pieces and one 8 inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old I' rench 4 ponnders and 14 guns, sent by King Louis to the Conti- nental Congress in the revolution. These are nil of bra^s and most of them highly ornamented. The Firnch guns presented by the king, bera each an individual name for- "w ird, and the inscription •" Ultima ratio regum^^ — (the ]&L-i argument of kings.) There are also 3 or 4 howitzers cast in New York and Phi- iddelphiain the revolution, some of the oldest specimens of Buch manufacture in this country. They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies. Troy. On the opposite side of the river, is a very handsome town, with fine hills in the rear, the most pro- minent of which has received the name of Mount Ida, to- correspond with the classic appellation of the place. — There is a good horse ferry, which helps to render the town^ a great thoroughfare during tjie travelling season. The Dam, Basin and Viaducts at Troy are expensive works.- The railroad to Baiiston meets the Schenectady and. Saratoga railroad. ■^i^W ■lif 30 TROT. M: Sandy Lake is 10 miles southwest, Nassau 8 i.iore, vil lagp of New-Lebanon 12 miles further, and Lebanon Springs 2 moie. On Mount Ida, tho hill east of Troy, is a fine succes- sion of water falls, on two streams, the Poestenkill and the Wynantskill. One of them has cut its way in some places to a great depth, and takes three or four perpen- dicular leaps at short intervals of only a few yards. The road to New^Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which is worthy of attention for its picturesque character. Mount Ida. The view from the top of this hill, and still more from the mountain behind it, is very extensive and beautiful. The Academy for young ladies Is a very respectable institution — long directed by Mrs. Emma Willard. Troy. Very fine packet boats ply on the canal from Troy to Whitehall, letting out early in the morning, and arriv- ing before night. This mode of travelling is recommend- ed on account of convenience, and the good opportunity it affords of viewing the battle-ground of Saratoga or Behmis's Heights, the field of surrender, &c. Hydroatatie Lock, In order to prevent fraud in the collection of toll, one of these works has been constructed at Troy. They are commonly called weigh-locks. The chamber is on the same level with the canal, and is filled from it by a paddle gate. On a level below the chamber is a receptacle, into which the chamber can be emptied ; and from this the water can be discharged. After an empty boat has been once weighed, she \» numbered, and her weight is registered at the several hydrostatic locks. The opportunity for looking around on every side is much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage- coach, or even a private carriage, although it sometime* happens, that the road commands more extensive views than the canal. The immediate scene from the latter, however, will usually be found the most agreeable ; for a smooth sheet of water, with level and often grassy banks, is a more pleasant sight than a long stretch of a muddy or sandy highway. Besides, it is always free from the inconvenience of dust, which frequently renders the roadsin this part of the country extremely ur rcmfortable. The Double Locks just below the junction of the iiOTrh'' REMARKS ON THE C4NAL. 31 ' i.iore, vil [ Lebanon ne succes- enkill and ly in some ur perpen- irds. The ace, which ter. is hill, and ^ extensive •espectable ird. from Troy and arriv- ecommend- portunity it iratoga or aud in the :;on8tructed cks. canal, and below the iber can be irged. led, she is- he several ery side is n a stage- sometimes isive views the latter, cable ; for ten grassy tretch of a; ways free tly renders ymfortable. i the norths ern and western canals, arc built of marble from Westches* ter county. The Junction, 8^ miles from Albany, is where the Northern and Western Canals meet and unite. To this spot the canal has been of a greater width than either of the branches will be found to be. The Northern Canal runs to Whitehall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a dis- tance of 63i miJes, passing through Waterford, Half- moon, Stillwater, near Behmis's Heights, (14 miles from Waterford,) with the battle-grounds of General Bur- goyne, Fort Hardy, where he surrendered. Fort Miller,. Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. The Erie or Western Canal extends to Buffalo, on Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 8*) locks, which raise and lower the water 688 feet in all. The- principal points where the most labour and expense were required, are the following: The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, — the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, together with the beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great Embankment at Victor, where for two miles the boats pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Ge- nesee at Rochester, — the five double combined locks at Lockport,. and the long pier at Black Rock. At the nine Locks, the road to Waterford leaves the Erie Canal on the west, and the Champlain Canal on the east ; and crosses the Mohawk River below the Co- hoes Falls. There is a very fine view of the locks, the riv- er, and the falls, from the road which runs along the south bank of the river, 140 feet high, between it and the canal. CoHoEs Falls. This is the great Cataract of the Mo- hawk River. The height of the fall is 62 feet. The banks are mere walls Qi stratified rock, rough, and some- times hollowed out benoath, rising about 140 feet above th& river for a great distance below the falls. At first view the cataract appears almost as regular as a mill-dam ; but on a nearer approach, the ledge of rocks over which the water is precipitated is found extremely irregular and broken, Many fine fish are caught at the br uom. li 32 SCHINICTADY. v;r .;• ..l! ScHENECTADt is One of the oldest settlements In the state, having been occufiied as a little frontier fortress before the year 1665, when it Was attacked by a party of French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and many of the inhabitants murdered. This party was designed! against the Five Nations ; but being much worn down with travelling in the winter, they fell on Schenectady. Union College is conspicuously situated a little out of town. Dr Nott is president of this highly respectable institution. The traveller now enters a region of peculiar interest m the history of the state, and indeed of the country. The first settlement of Albany by the Dutch, (in 1610',) was made with the intention of trading with the Iroquois, or Five Nations of Indiars, who occupied the territory west of it. These were stationed in the following order : the Mohawks, Oneidas, Cayugas, Onondagas and Senecas or Onondowachwas as they called themselves. The French in Canada often endeavoured to detach these tribes from the Dutch, and subsequently from the English, but with- out success. They carried on a trade with the Dutch and the En- glish, very valuable to the latter. In the French wars in the first half of the last century, and stiU later, they aided the English with scouts and soldiers, and' often suffered severely for their faithfulness. In the Revolution, the Americans wished to persuade them to remain neutral: but some of them were drawn off to the British interest by Sir John Johnson, who resided at Johnstown ; and thus the region between Schenectady and the most distant part of the state at that time settled by white men was, for several years, ravaged by war. Bodies of Indians, led by British officers, frequently came from Canada by forced marches, and falling by surprise upon the settlements, burned the buildings, carried off or destroyed' the pro- perty, and killed* or captured the inhabitants. A line of scattered villages then lying on and near the route of the present railroads, roads and canals, several times suffered in this manner; and the enemy often crossed that line, and penetrated more than once as far as the Valley of Wyoming in Pennsylvania. Among the most melancholy eventi caused by war in- lents in the tier fortread y a party of , and many as designed down with Iv. little out of respectable r interest in jntry. The 1610,) was Iroquois, or rritory west order : the Senecas or rhe French tribes front 1, but with- ,nd the En- ich wars in they aided en suffered lution, the in neutral; ish interest I ; and thus listant part n was, for ans, led by by forced 5ttlement!», i' the pro- A line of )ute of the 33 suffered that line, Valley of by war in* . 1 si. ■■ < ' ■im n r»» ,1 t .'» ) 0' l»y m ants furnisi tliey midiui Alban] the rnl SchI sideral railri may this pi ri*—iihwm.»i . III! ROUTS TO NIAOARA. 33 tlw'9 part of the Union was the destruction of Scheneftndy l>y the French and Indians m the yt'ar 1665. The inhabit^ ants were disatfectcd t»)ward8 the troops, who had beea furnished them for protection, and were so secure that they disreganiod all precautions, and, being attacked at midnight, were easily overcome. Many of them tied to Albany in great distress over the inhospitable plain which the railroad crosses. Schenectady, 15 miles from Albany, is a town of con-* siderable size, at a point where the Krie Canal and the railroad meet ihe Mohawk. Those who have leisure may be pleased with the canal route between Albany and this place, as it twice crosses the river on aqueducts, and passes the Cohoes Falls, (70 feet high,) and a tine display of nine double locks below it. FROM SCHKNECTADY '.O VTICA. By the Canal, 79^^ miles. Rotterdam Flats - - 3 miles. Flint Hill ... 8 Fort Hunter - - - 10 North of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk, is the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like most of the places of defence built in this state during the revolution and the French wars, it was small, and fi;ted only for resisting such little bands of enemies as used to approach the settlements on this frontier. Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mohawk Indians ; and there is still to be seen a chapel built by Queen Anne, near the beginning of the last century, for the use of that nation. It is known by the name of Queen Anne's Chapel. Tribe's Hill, (called by the corruption of the German neighbours, Tripe's Hill,) is a fine eminence crossed by the stage-road. On its summit was formerly the principal fort and village of the Mohawks. This tribe, being tho iTjiost eastern of* the Five Nations," was most known by the Indians of New-England, whose bitter enemies they ■were. At the time when Massachusetts was first settled, they governed the country as far east as Connecticut Rivejr. The fort on this hill was once taken by surprise by the French. The railroad lies at its base, ' \l li ■' .t II lit II I J ! I it h i h' : ; :l ill r. i hi 34 SCHOHARIE CKEXK. Schoharie Creek. 1 mile. Here is a collection of several very interesting works, formed for the convenient passage of boats across a broad and rapid stream. A guard lock preserves the water in the canal from rising or falling, and the current of the creek is set back by a dam a little below, nearly to the same level. The dam is con- structed in a manner best calculated to resist the pressure of the current in floods, and when increased by the ice. It has a bioad foundation and a narrow top ; and it is built so as to present a-i angle against the middle of the current. An ingenious invention has been devised for drawing boats across the creek by machinery. A wheel turned by a horbc moves a rope, which is stretched double across, and is carried round a wheel on the other side; a line attached to this draws the boats, they being kept in their cou. c by another line, which slides upon a long rope stretched cross the creek on the other side of the boats. Ca!;(^hnawaga, 4§ miles. The village of Johnstown is situated at the distance of four miles north of the canal.** The railroad passes it. * At Johnstown, on the road, are two f.ne houses, built of stone, standing at the distance ofa mile from each oihei. They were erected hy Sir VV illiam Joltnson and his family, as this tract of country whs the place of his residence, and formed a part •of his va.^t and valuable estate. There was originally a tliird house, sintilariy built, aiul at the interval of another mile: but that was consumed by ^rc. Cot. Guy Johnson, and Col. John Johnson, (sons of Sir WMJam,) inh&liited two of them until the revolution- ary war ; when, having attached themselves to the British inte- rest, they removed into Canada, and their estates wereconfiscated. Colonel John afterwards came down with a party of French and Indians, attacked the town., and made prisoners many of his old friends and neighbours. Sir William Johnson, who make.s so conspicuous a figure in the history of the state about the time of the French war, was born in Ireland, in 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation of hirt uncle. Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a large fstate here through his wife Sir William became well acquainted with the Indian language and manners, and acquired a greater influ- MS' .-1 '<■ w!» -, ;»' ilir^ ' n ll i r. 1 I ( ' ^ y \^ 'i'' y ROUTE TO WIAOiRA* 35 Aktkopty's Nose, 7| milrs. This is a high and pro- mitteiil hill, riding abruptly on the southern bank of the river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, wh'oh extends downwards to a great depth, with several apartments of considerable size. Thia hill is represented in one of the plates; but the view is taken from a spot west of it. The spot is quite picturesque, and presents a remarkable assemblage of interesting objects: t'le Mohawk River, winding through a narrow valley, with the turnpike on the north side, the canal and a country road on the south; the whole enclosed bv rough and elevated hills. There is every appearance of a rent m the hills having been made by a strong current of water; and geologists consider them as having originally been a barrier to a great lake which was thus gradually drained. Canajoharie Crkek and Village, 5 miles. Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a sfnall village, belong- ing to a town inhabited by the descendants of Germans. It occupies the site of Old Fort Plain. The German lan- guaijo, much corrupted, is spoken here. This little fort was surprised by captain Butler in the revolutionary war, on his returning from burning Cherr/ Valley ; and here he committed similar atrocities. Dam on the River ^ and. Feeder for the Canals 4 miles. The Mouth op East Canada Creek, on the opposite side of the Mohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler met a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on his way back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He had crossed the river stimewheri below, and while lingering a little in the rear of his troops, was overtaken near the mouth o( the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship with the Americans Seeing them preparing to kill him, he begged for his life; hut they only replied ^* Sherry Valley!''^ and tomahawked Uim on the spot. 1T74, at the age of 60, very rich, in consequence of the inerAssad Value of his exteusiv*' estate after the French war. This budd- ing was erectRd in 1773, and stouds nearly a iliilo westward from tha viliaga. Itii called the Hail. 4* 7' ■' v' \m w* ^1 36 tITTtX FA,LL9. Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. This was the principal defensive position of that famous nation of Indians, noW entirely scattered and lost. Here is an old chapel erected for their use. Little Falls. The country presents a varied sur- face, and increases in interest on approaching Little Falls, which is the most romantic scene on the course of the Erie Canal. On reachmg a little open me^'^dow surround'- ^\ by hills, where the views open upon cultivated fields and a few farm houses, the Mohawk will be found flowing below, on tlie right; while on the oppo'*te side, at the foot of the hills and on the verge of the f>v est that covers them, the great road is seen, after having been lost to the view for a long lime. The road, river, canal, and railroad meet again at the head of the valley ; for there is butone passage, and that so narrow as hardly to afford room for them all. This is a deep cut through a cham of lime- stone and granite hills, doubtless torn away in some former age by the force of water. If the chain were again filled up it would throw the water back, and form an immen^se lake, such as is supposed to have once ex^ isted west of this place, and which, by overflowing its bounds, in process of time wore away the litncsrone stra- ta> and cut deep into the hard granite, until a mere river succeeded, and the fine alluvial plains above, called the German Flats, were left dry. The stranger should, by no means, neglect the view of this place. If he reaches it early or late in a pleasant day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the beauty of the scene will be redoubled. On the north bank of the rive-, the road climbs along the side of the rocks, where there is baroly room for its passage A great part of the way it is almost overhung by rocks and trees on one side, while on the other is a precipice of granite, cut down by the force of the water in perpendicular shafts, originally formed by drills, made by loose stones whirled round in the current. The same appearance e.xtends to the islands and rocks in the channels, many of which appear quite inaccessible, with their ragged and perpendicular sides overhung by dark evergreens, whose shade seems the more intense from its contrast with the white rapids and cas- ROUTK TO NIAGARA. 3r principal ms, noW I erected ried sur* tie Falls, 36 of the urround* ,ed fiplds i flowing le, at the at covers )st to the j railroad s butone room for of lime- in some lain were and form once ex- iwing its one stra- lere river silled the B view of pleasant jeauty of k of the 8, where ft of the >ne side, own by riginally ound in islands r quite |ar sides be more nd cas- tades below. In some places the road is protected by immende natural battlements, formed of massy rock- which have been loosened from above, and planted them- selves on the brow of the precipice. On the south side of the river runs the canal, support^ cd by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at great ex- pense, and rising from the very channel of the Mohawk. The wildness of the surrounding scenery contrasts no less with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the violence and tumult of the Mohawk, with the placid and silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security with which the boats glide along the side of the moun- tains. The traveller in a boat may step on shore and walk along the tow paths, as there are five more locks a mile above. 7 he wishes to stop a few hours to view the scene more at leisure, the village of Little Falls is only half a mile from that place, where is a large and comfort- able inn, with cars, boats and coaches passing very frequently. If he intends to stay but a few hours, it is recommended to him to have his baggage left at a little tavern on the canal, where it can be readily transferred to another vehicle. The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the Glosks \ end is considered the most finished specimen of mason work on the Ime of the canal, though much inferior in size to that over the Genesee at Rochester. It conducts a supply of water from the old canal, formerly built for boats to pass the falls, and communicates also with a large basin on the north bank. It passes the narrow channel of the river with hree beautiful arches, which are covered with a calcareous cement roughened by little stalactites, formed by the water that continually drips through the stones. Stones, twigs of trees, &c. on which the water falls, are soon found incrusted with a similar substance. The channel here shows part of the old lime- stone strata, with the more durable granite rocks laid bare below. This neighbourhood is interesting to the geologist, abounding in organic remains, &c. but the ordinary tra- veller will be more pleased with specimens of the beauti- ^2 ^m' r-.9 i } f II 38 VttCk, n '! ,i; ^• i- fill little rock-crystals, (quartz,) which are foand on (h« hills about a mile distant from the village. They are per' feet in thsir fornix terminating with two pyramids ; and are so loosely imbedded in a sandy rock, aa to be washed uut by the rains in considerable numbers. There are mills of various kinds at this place. On leaving Litilc Falls, the canal enterA upon a beau" tiful meadow of hne soil, and a smooth surface; through which the Mohawk winds in a placid and gentle current, enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance of three miles we are in the level region called the Ger-' man Flats, famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, wha are almost all of German extraction, still preserve their language, and many of the customs of their ancestors ; and though often laborious and provident farmers, are httle inclined to those improvements in learning or the useful arts, which distinguish so large a portion of the state. T^^e scenes presented along this part of the canal, bear a resemblance to some of the meadows of the Con- necticut, although of inferior size, and of more recent settlement. HiSHKiMBR. This village is situated about 7^ mile» beyond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semicircular plain ; the circumference of which is traced by the Mo- hawk, and the diameter by the railroad. It derives it» name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there wiH be more to say at Home. The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton Falls, and join the canal at Utica ; or go first from Utica< The Long Level begins at Lock No 63, nearly six miles west of Herkimer It is the longest reach on the canal without any interruption by locks, extending to Sa- lina, a distance of 69|| miles, 400 feet above tide. Utica* This is one of the largest and most important of the western towns Hotels , Bagg's, Canal Coffee- House, Franklin, City Hotel, National. Public buildingSf &c. 3 Batiks, 16 Churches, Female Institute, High School, Academy, Reading Room, and Lilirary of the Y. Men's Association, (open to strangers.) Lyceum, &c. The streets are broad, straight and commodious ; and the principal ones well built, with rows of brick stores^ ROUTE TO NIAGAi.*. 39 ire per- ls ; and washed current, iistance he Ger^ Us, wha ve their cestors ; lers, are g or the n of the le canaly .he Con- i recent f^ miles icircular the Mo- ;Fives it9 I more to Trenton Utica< !aily six |h on the ig toSa« iportant Coffee- lildingSf le, High |y of the &c. s; and storear •cwBlejrant dwelling houses. The bridge over the Mo- hawk, is at the end of the street. Hamilton College is situated near the village of Clint )n, 9 miles from Utica. Trenton Falls. This most interesting vicinity is •well worthy the attention of every person of taste, being justly considered, one of the finest natural scenes in this part of the country. From this house yoia descend a long stair case down the steep bank of ihe West Canada Creek, which has cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, m some places 150 feet deep, and is seen gliding swiftly by throuj;\j a declining channel below. The chasm continues for four miles, and presents the greatest variety of cascades and rapids, boiling ^ools and eddies. The passage or chasm between the rocks is everywhere very narrow, and in some places barely of sufficient breadth tti permit the stream to pass; while the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side, or sometimes even project a considerable dis- tance over heaid, so that it has been often necessary to form an artificial path by means of gunpowder. These places appear dangerous, but only require a little caution and presence of mind to insure \he safety of the visiter, as strong iron chains are hxed into the rock to offer him security. There are four principal cataracts, between the staircase by which you first descend and the usual limit of an excursion, 'A'hich is about a mile and a quar- ter up the stream. The first of these you discover soon after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high; with the greatest fall towards the west The top of the rock on the right side is 150 feet high by line measurement. The second is a regular fall, much like a milldam, about 8 feet high; the third a remarkably striking and beautiful one; and the fourth rather a succession of cascades, but presents many most agreeable varieties. Near the foot of this a melancholy accident occurred in 1827. A lady from New -York was drowned by slipping from a low bank ; unseen, although her friends and parents were near her. The ear is stunned by the foils, the rocks ■are slippery and great caution is recommended. About a mile and a quarter from the house, is a small u 40 FORT STANWIX. building erected for the supply of refreshment ji. A singu- lar species of tree is found in this neighbourhood, called the white cedar, with drooping branches, which often grow to such a length aa to descend far below the root, towa,rds the water. The rocks here are all a dark lime- stone, of p. very slaty structure, and contam at^tonishing quantities of petrified marine shells and other animals of an antediluvian date, such as Dilobitos, Trilobites, &c. There are several other cataiacts besides those already mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger might spend some time here very agreeably in observing them fiit leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which the creek abounds. The house is commodious, and has the reputation of furnishing one of the best tables in this part of the state. From Utica to Syracuse, by the canal, 63| miles, Whitestown 4, Oriskany village 7, Rome on the right 8, Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. Arsenal 1, Oneida Creek, 14, Lock 54, end of the long level 29, Sy- racuse |. These places are noted in succession. Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in this part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All this trac^ of country was a perfect wilderness in 1785, when Mr. White, from Middletown, in Connecticut, first took up his abode hero and lifted an axe against the forest. The traveller may keep this in mind as he pursues his journey, and the progress of civilization will appear more astonishing. Siege of Fort Stanwix. On the road from Whites- town to Rome, is the spot where Gen. Herkimer sat down under a tree after receiving his mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Burgoyne sent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of them savages, under Baron St. Leger, from Montreal, by Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix ; and then to go down the Mohawk jto Albany. Early in August they arrived at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, commander ot the mihtia of Tryon county, was sent against them with 800 men. His men insisted on going on, to meet a detachment under Sir J. Johnson, sent ont by St. Leger; but at the first shot they fled. A few remained and fought, and Gen. H. wa» mortally wounded. Congress voted a monument to hit mtmory, but it has never been erected. Tho America^ ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 41 called I often le root, I limc- nishing lals of &c. already might r thorn lich the has tho his part [ miles, right 8, jenal 1, 29, Sy- s in thif nt. All n 1785, ut, first forest, lues his IT moT& Whites- at down 1777, nany of real, by o down rived at mihtia ^ men. it under rst shot H. wa» to hi» .ericftl;^ lost 160 killed, and 240 wounded and prisoners. [Two miles below Fort Stnnwix the canal commences between the Mohawk and Wood Creek.] Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E of the centre off the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of pali- sades, and a block house in the middle. It was drfended against St. Leger, by Col. Ganzevoort Lieut. Col. Willet drove him off by a sortie, and plundered the camp. He was intercepted on his return, but cut his way through, and returned without the loss of a man. VVhen Sir J. Johnson returned from the battle with Gen. Herkimer, the fortress was summoned, but refused to surrender ; and Col. Willet and Lieut. Stockton left the fort to inform the people towards Albany, of its situation. They crept through the enemy's camp, and got to Gen. Schuyler's head qtiarters nt Stillwater. Gen. Arnold volunteered to relieve it; and frightened the besiegers by means of 'wo emissaries, an Indian and a white man, who told such sto- ries of the force of the Americans, that they left their baggage and fled precipitately to Oneida Lake. Onetda Castle. This is a village on the confines of a tract of reserved land belonging to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The principal residences of must of the Indians in this part of the country were formerly fortified iii a manner corresponding with their ideas of warfare, end hence the name of castle attached to this village, ag well as to several others, which we may have occasion to apeak of further on. The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations, which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this state, and whose power and influence, at the time of the settlement of New- York and New-England, were extended far and wide. They held the Dalawares in subjection in Pennsylvania and Delaware; the Cherokees in South Ca- rolina sought their friendship ; and all the country betweeti the Hudson and Connecticut rivers was tributary to them. They must have been at that time extremely numerous. But since then their decreasie has been great ; for besides the losses they have sustained in wars, and the diseases brought upon them by civilized vices, many of their youn^ men have left their native country to go and join the tribe* Hi A ^1 51 inn 1 * V - j ^^ 4*? SYRACUSE. SALT WORKS. » who Hf ill preserve some portion of their original habits and' independence. A mile east of Oneida Creek, r.. i' by the road sidci is the ancient Council Ghove, wht all the public busi- ness of the nation was for mi j years, transacted. It is formed of fine butternut trees, which, in the summer season, from a little dij»tance, present a beautiful and re- gular mass of verdune. Towards the southeast from this place is seen the Episcopal church, a building erected for the use of the Indiana, Syracuse. This place is no less remarkable for the rapidity of its growth^ than for the peculiar advantages of its situation. The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half distant ; and the water is raised 85 feet, and brought in hollow logs to the salt vats, and at a very triflinff ex- pense. These vats cover 400 acres at the western side of the village, and are well worthy of a day's delay, as well as the works at Salina,. Liverpool, and Geddesburgh.— The vats are large pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, raised a little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt wa- ter to flow slowly along from one end to the other. Each range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed perpen- dicularly in the ground ; and the constant action of the sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in small cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at first a little thick, butgradually deposits its impurities; and the lower vats always show a beautiful white crust, like the purest snow.. Within 7 miles are 180 salt works. Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken out once in two or three diays, to be deposited in the store- houses, which are built at regular distances. Thence it is easily removgd to the canal, and then is ready for transportation to any part of the country. The Oswego Canal leaves the Erie canal at this place,, and opens a direct communication with Lake Ontario. The bank is used as a tow path a considerable distance. The shores rise gradually to a height of 100 feet, with few inhabitants and little cultivation. The locks and other works are of the boat description,, and. very admiiabls workmanship. g .*i I f Sal })lace, but coil tween by ma; canal, is that clear id or eighl rows, about tl a large quires ( The w? of the b and dep A hollov opening! filling ih boiling c and is but the appcarar room jus There in reserv air passii plied wit in large crystalliz ether mo The V; rishing aj it on th( warmer s hood is rr terrible s of many j have beer been grea The bri plied to ROUTK TO NIAGARA. 43 Sai.ina is situated a mile and a half north from this place, and should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but convenient little packet-boat is continually plying be- tween the two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes by many salt manufactories, built on both sides of the canal. The mode of evaporation generally adopted here, is that of boiling ; and a brief description will convi^y a clear idea of the process. Kach building contains sixteen or eighteen large iron kettles, which are placed in two rows, forming what is called ** a block. They stand about three feet higher than the floor ; and under them is a large furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and re- quires constant attention to keep the water always boiling. The water is drawn from a large reservoir at one end of the building, after having been allowed to stand awhilo and depo**it the impurities it has brought along with it. A hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with openings against the kettles, is the only machine used in filling them. The firstdeposit made by the water after tho boiling commences, is a compound of several substances, and is thrown away, under the name of " Bittern ;" but the pure white salt, which soon after makes its appearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store- room just at hand, ready for barrelling and the market. There are large manufactories here, where salt is made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evaporated by hot air passing through them in large pipes. The pipe is sup- plied with heat by a furnace below, and the salt is formed in large loose masses, resembling half-thawed ice. The crystallization also is different from that produced by the ether modes, at least in secondary forms. The Village of Salina is of considerable size and a flou- rishing appearance. The extensive marshes which bound it on the west are extremely unwholsome during the warmer seasons of the year, and the whole neighbour- hood is more or less infected with the fever and ague, that terrible scourge, which has retarded so much the settlement of many parts of the western country. Since the marshes have been partiahy cleared and drained, the disease has been greatly diminished. The branch canal which runs through this village, is ap- plied to other valuable purposes beside those of transpor- 5 41 SALINA. SALT WORKS. ! tation. A sluice which draws off* a portion of the water towards the marshos and the lake, is mado to turn sovoral mill wlicc'ls in its course A forcing pump raises the wa- ter of the «alt spring destined to supply the mannfactories here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame building shows the spot from which all the kettles and the pans of both these places derive their supplies : that for the lattor being elevated to the height of 85 feet. The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the sur- face, and the source would seem by no means equal to the great draughts which are continually made upon it. The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. It is six miles long and two broad, and must receive a con- siderable quantity of salt water from the draining of the marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. The valley is surrounded by limestone hills, with petrifactions, and gypsum is found in great quantities. " The American Salt Formation" says Dr. Van Rensselaer in his * Essay,' " extends over the continent from the Alleghanies to the Pacific, between 31° and 45° North Latitude. In this immense tract, rock salt has been occasionally found ; but its locality is more generally pointed out by brine springs." The salt springs in this state are in the counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario, Niagara, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and Oneida, but this is the most valuable on various accounts. During the year ending August 1823, 606,463 bushels were manufactured here. In 1800 there were only 42,754. 45 gallons of water makes a bushel of salt. At Nan- tucket 350 gallons of sea water are required. The foll/wing approximated analysis of the water of this spring is given by Dr. Noyes of Hamilton College. 40 gallons, or 355 lbs. contain 56 lbs. of saline extract. Pure Muriate of Soda, 51 lb. Carb. Lime, coloured by oxyde ofiron, 6|J oz. Sulph. Lime, 2'lb. 4 oz. Muriate Lime. 1 lb. 12| oz. and probably muriate magnesia, and •ulph. soda. From Syracuse to Rochester. Railroad. By the canal, 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 miles. — A coach to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. Urn. Monte* he water n several I the wa- ifactories building and the ies: that ;et. curiosity, cuhle ap- 1 the sur- uai to the it. t a mile, ive a con- ing of the Its. The rifactions, Dr. Van continent p and 450 salt has generally this state Ontario, , but this the year ufactured At Nan- water of Colleg©. xtract. >loured by Muriate lesia, and lad. miles. — , Monte* '/Hi' > '.nn i P- ^ ( ir.v . r- 1 N-'rth 't » n .y '/'./ /.' / () spring ROUTB TO NIAGARA. 45 zuma Salt Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The canal across the marshes was constructed at a vast expense. 35 m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents. The Great Embankment, 72 feet high, extending 2 m. Antiquities. In the towns of Onondaga, Camillua, and Pompey, are the remains of ancient villages and forts, of which a description will be found in Yates and Moul- ton's History of the State, vol. I. p. 13. In Pompey the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, with the remains of something like circular or elliptical forts at the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 500 acres. De Witt Cj'ir.t'^n. tho laie Governor of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before the Lit. and Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed on the north line. In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hiil, three acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long, to a spring on the west and a gate towards the east. Another is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick have been picked up in these placea. (There is a bed of Coal in Onondaga.) 'I . ^v ,j i'itt ROCHESTER Is the largest and most flourishing place in this part of the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of numbers. It is situated on the west side of Genesee river, at the upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal; and enjoys the finest advantages for water mills of all kinds, from the convenient and abundant supply obtained from the falls. Hotels. Rochester House, Eagle, Mansion, Monroe, Clinton and Arcade. Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811, the first settlement made in 1812, and it was not until the latter part of the year 1814, that any considerable addition was made to the number of inhabitants. In the museum may be seen the remains of mammoths dug up in this town and vicinity. There are many fine dwellings, the court house. Arcade, Athenaeum and Pagoda, gaol, market, 20 large flour milU \ 46 ROCHESTEK. of Stone. There are three bridges over the Genescpf eight canal basins, two dry docks, &c. The Broadway bridge, 600 feet long, is a few yards above the aqueduct. The water power belonging to this village and the vicinity is equal to the power of 38,400 horses ; or, 1,920 steam engines of 20 horse power each. Therefore the water power is worth (computing the cost of such en- gines, as in England, at $8,880 each ; and the annual expense of working at 222 dollars for each horse power,) almost ten millions annually. The whole river supplies 20,000 cubic feet a minute ; and the combined height of the falls at Rochester and Carthage is about 280 feet. A fall of 12i cubic feet of water in a minute 20 feet, is equal to the power of one horse. The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the finest works on the course of the canal, and is no less remark- able fok' its usefulness than for its architectural beauty and strength. It is borne across the river's channel, on ten arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly along beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers, glide safely above. A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, where sluices are also constructed for the supply of the nurrorous manufactories built on the bank. Other sluices are also dug on the west side^ where many other mills are to be seen. The streets of the town are hand- somely and regularly laid out, and seve-^1 of them are very well built with store and dwelling houses of brick and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. Falls. There is a fall in the Genesee of about 90 feet, near the northern extremity of the town, another near it ; and a fine one at Carthage, which, with the truly impressive scenery of the banks, is worthy of par- ticulur attention. To vary the ride, it is recommended to the stranger to go down on one side of the river, and after viewing the cataract, cross the bridge a little above, and return on the other. Carthage. The fall here is very sudden, though not in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a few yards. The cataract i.as evidently been retiring for ages» as the deep gulf below tlie falls, with its high, perpen- dicular and ragged banks, is sufficient testimony ; ami Other other hand- I H huni been a Hei ^f ROUTX TO NIlGARi. 47 the seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime effect of the scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the cataract, combine to render it one of the most impressive scenes in this part of the country. The precipices are walls of secondary rocks, presenting their natural stratification, and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth of about tvi^o hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and disappearing at the brink of the falls, which it has kept at their present position ; its superior hardness, evident* ly resisting the action of the water, for a much longer time; and probably rendering the descent more perpendi* cular than it would otherwise be. The rocks are over- hung with thick forest trees, which, in some places, have been able to find a narrow footing along the sides. Here are the hutments of a bridge thrown over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in length, and 250 above the water: but stood only a short time, and then fell with a tremendous crash, by its own weight. Foriunately no person wp ^ crossing it at the time-— a lady and gentleman had just bbfore passed, and safely reached the other side. On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communication between the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, and Lak« Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise is raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an inclined plane, very steep, where the descending weight is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. Road from Rochester to Niagara Falls, 87 miles. To Lockport, and thence a tcuilroad to the Falls, To Carthage Falls - 2 To Gaines Parma - * - - - 9 Clarkson - . - - 7 Hartland - - - - 14 Sandy Creek - - - 7 ... - 8 Oak Orchard - - - 7 Cambria - - - - - 11 Lewiston - - - - 15 Niagara Falls - - - 7 The principal objects on this road, are the Ridge, Lew- iston on Niagara River, and the Tuscarora Village. Ni- agara Village will bo seen if you do not cross into Cana- da at Lewiston ; and Queenstown if you do. Lockport may also be seen by leaving the stage road at Hartland, 5* 46 L0CK?0R7. 54 mileB from Rochester, where a vehicle awaits th« arr ' rival of the coach, to lake travellera to Lockport, 7 miles. It will be proper, however, to pay your passage only to th?8 plice, if you determine to stop here. Instead of going by land from Rochester^ it may be more convenient to take passage in the canal boat to Lcckport ; and there take the railroad. The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, and for the most part very narrow, extending a great part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is often perfectly level for several miles, and affords an ad- mirable found.it on for the road, which has, in conse- quence, b "m*} along its top. The gro ' , \ p t •;ents a slope on esch side of the path, peculiarly W; I'i ada.V'd for home log, gardens, and or- chards; and the frequency and facility of transportation give the inhabitants very manifest advantages. Somf* well built, and even handsome houses will be observed, which are still few indeed, but show that a good style ha« actually been introduced. Lockport. This is one of the interesting places on the canal. Here is the noblest display of locks, two ranges, made of fine hewn stone, being constructed against the brow of the Mountain Ridge, where the foaming of the waste water, the noise of mills, and the bustle of occupa- tion excite many lively feelings. Above the locks the Deep Cut offers a singular passage between high walls of rocks. Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites for machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down the mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an ex- tent of 135 miles : Tonawanta Creek being the only feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca River. It is down by passing round the double locks, and falls feet into a large natural basin. The rocks are blasted out to a depth of 60 feet. Within a few years, the spot has heen changed from a wilderness to a village of several hundred houses. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to Buffalo. Minerals,. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime, containing organic remains: encrinites, enthrocites, &c. &c. crystala of carb. lime, rhomboidal, dog-tooth spar, brought 55 <-* th« fff » r miles. only to be more Kjkport ; ; height^ a great 1. It is s an ad- n conse- ,he path, and or- jortation Som^ )b8erved, style ha« es on the 3 ranges, linst the ig of the occupa- ocks the walls of 8ites for es down or an ex- le onlv brought falls 55 isted out pot has several d 27 to oflime, les, &c. ;h spar, '■?^ ■t ) , 'I !2 9R of lini 8ul[)lll •chttHCi Tho land grated last c( wem which Thoy many } by the I cuhiva It vv at this of Niag haps it To tho rccoinrr ferenco tish sifJ both pi hour of a (iolla and up the falls furnish the cats son. D places 5 coa'',hes To su in this 1 to proce thiit sid( rally ac The visi Goat Is Table Ji ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 49 ! 2 sided ; flu!\to of limo; boaiitiful crystals of siilphatr' of lime ; -^'dph. of stroiitiaii ; pyiitc!*; .siilpliurot of zinc; gul[»huret of lead. Colloclious of niiiiLTals may be pur- ■chased hore. Tho TuscAUORA Rkskiivation is an oblonij tract of land reaching within a niilo of Lcwiston. Thoy emi- grated from North Caroliiia, near tho boginnini^ of tho ladt century, at an inviiaiion from the Five Nalionn, and were admitted on equal trrnis into thiiir confederacy, whicli ha- since received tho name of tho Six Nations. They have had a clergyman settled amont^ them for many years, and Ciiristianity has biH^n voluntarily ad()j)ted by liiem. Their village has some haiulsome and weK cultivated farms, and a house built for pul)lic worship. Hints to the Traveller at Lewiston. It will be the intention of many strangers who arrive at this place, to devote several days to viewing tlie Fall» of Niagara, the battle grounds m the vicinity, and per- haps in making short excursions in dift'erent directions. To those who have leisure, such a course may well ho recommended ; and it may be almost a matter of indif- ference whether they first visit the American or the Bri- tish side. Tho public accommodations are excellent at both places, and the river may bo safely crossed at any hour of the day, by a ferry, at the expense of about haif a dollar, including tho transportation of luggage down and up the steep banks. Staircases are erected near the falls, on the Ijritish as well as the American side, to furnish a convenient mode of descending to the foot of the cataract, where the (charge is 25 cents for each per- son. Durmg the pleasant seasons of tlie year, both places are the resort of great throngs of visiters. Stage coa'',hes also pass up and down on both sides every day. To such^ however, as have but a short time to spend in this neighbourhood, it may be strongly recommended to proceed directly to the British side. The cataract on that side is higher, broader, more unbroken, and gene- rally acknowledged to be the noblest part of the scene. The visiter may indeed see it to great advantage from Goat Island, on the American side, but the view from Table Rock, ono-ht by no means to be neglected. Th« I m I ■io fkLtS Of NIAGARA. H m finest views from tho Icvol of the water below arc now af- forded on l)Oth sides. THK FALLS OF NIAGARA— /rom^Ac American tide. The Iss or Hotel is n large building, and very well kept and commodious. On the American side a bridge crosses a frightful part of the rapi(U to Bnth Island, juuI another thence to Goat Island. I'art of a bridge rnimains, which extended to Ter- rapin Rooks, and beyotul to the brow of tho cataract. By it you may reach tlie Stone Tower, to the top of which a winding staircase leads, aflording a most impressive view of the awful scene below. The Biddle Staircase, erected at the expense of Nicho- las Biddle, Ksq. of rhiladelphia, leads from Iris Island to tho bottom of the preripicc. You descend first stone steps 40 feet, between stone walls, then by 88 steps under a wooden cover, which brings you to three pathways with stone steps, which conduct to the water's edge, whence the view upward is most imposing. Several picturesque and romantic avenues and rocky recesses are to be seen at different parts of the river's banks. The height of the fall on this side is IGO feet perpen- dicular, but somewhat broken in several places by the projecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock which interrupts it on the brow of the precipice. A narrow sheet appears beyond it, and then comes Goat Island, with a mural precipice. Between this and the other shore is the Grand Crescent, for which see a few pages beyond. Tho long bridge to the island, which com* mands many fine views of the falls, rests on wooden piers sunk with stones. The staircase conducts safely to the bottom of the pre- cipice ; and boats may row up near to the cataract. About two miles below the Falls, is a mineral sprinff, said to contain sulphuric and muriatic acids, lime and magnesia. There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a mile across; but the current is strong on this side, and Ihe eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a ^ hoat m over, is much pools : to niiina vantage rippli's n ance ver The ri of a mor ring ever tho foot ( QUKEN small tov natural si been the The L between while Ge he forme before da; barked hi" under covi coast were some strei lofty and \ Two or tl brow, the ing was efi Americans Gen. Broc hastened t was killed in possessi obliged to The M the British of Gen. Bi feet ; and i sive, being the eye em of Lewistoi DATTLE OP QUKENSTOWff. 5i now af* an aide, rcry well tful part to Goat 1 to Ter- ict. By which a ivo view )f Nicho- [sland to •St 8tone p3 under r'ays with , whence id rocky lo river's perpen- \ by the .k which narrow island, le other IV pages ;h corn- wooden jthe pre- sprinff, |me and half a |de, and that a M hnat moves moro than double that (li-stnnro in goinij over. The pussiigo is not dun^erous, akhcmjjh the water is much agitated by counter cunt'iits and clum^inf; whirl- pools : for the ferryrneu ur«.! iauijlit by their expcrierx'o to niiuia^'e the boat with cavo, and not only to take ad- vantage of the eurronts, Imt to avoid all the rough places, rippleri and whirlpool.-.. Tlio banks liere liavo an ap[)ear- ance very wild and striking. The rocks nvo a dark red sandstone, with thin strata of a more clay(!y character and a lighter colour, occur- ring every few feet. The river is 104 feet lower than at the foot of the falls. QuEKNsTovvN, on liie Canada side of the river, is a small town, uninterestini;, except so far as regards its natural situation, and some martial events of which it has been the theatre. The Battle of Queeyisfoirn. During the last war between the United States and Great Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensselaer was stationed at Lewiston, he formed the bold design of taking Que(?nstovvn ; and, before daylight in the morning of October 13tn, he em- barked his troo])s at the ferry, and passed over the river under cover of a battery. As the accessible points on tho coast were strictly watched, and defendtnl by butteries of some strength, the plac" selected for the attack was the lofty and precipitous bank jiisi above, about 300 feet high. Two or three small I atteries bad been erected on the brow, the remains of which are still visible ; but the land- ing was eflected, the heights were surmounted, and the Americans commenced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, who was at a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to the spot; but under a tree near the precipice was killed by a chance stmt. The Americans remained in possession of the heights a few hours, but were then obliged to re-cross the river. The Monvrnent to General Brock was raised by the British government in the year 18l;24 ; and the remains of Gen. Brock v M'e deposited there. Its height was 12G feet; and the vir . from the base is very fine and exten- sive, being 350 feet above the river. In clear weather the eye embraces not only the river below, and the towns 0? Lewiston and Queenstown, but those of Newark and i I'S i i'tS 1 111 nu i'i ^ffl M| Ml i' Wml Rivl iy: I- i - II 52 FALLS or NIAGARA. Fort Niagara, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, Toronto harbour, Youngstown, part of the route of the Welland Canal, a vast level tract of country covered with an uni- form forest, and the horizon formed by the distant lake itself. It has been lately blown up with gunpowder by some unknown person. ,, From Queenstown to Niagara Falls is seven miles, over a level, sandy road. The country between Niagara and Toronto, U. C. is con- sidered the most beautiful, most fertile, and best culti- vated part of the province. The Whirlpool, sometimes called the Devij's Hole, cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to the bank. The rocks are about 300 feet above the wa- ter; and during the late war 50 Americans were driven off by a party of Indians, in the night, mistaking the trees for the verge of a wood. One was saved by falUng into a cedar. A loiaurely walk the whole distance, near the river, may please the admirer of nature; as the high and rocky cliffs which form the banks on both sides present a con- tinued succession of slrikmo: scenes. Although the surface of the ground frequently indicates the passage of water in some long past period, the whole road is much elevated above the river, and owing to this circumstance the traveller is disappointed at not getting a sight of a cataract from a distance, as it remains conceal- ed by the banks, until he has approached very near. It frequently happens, also, that the roar of the cataract is not perceived before reaching the inn, for the mtervening bank intercepts the sound so much that the noise of the wheels is sometimes sufficient to drown )t entirely. Yet, strange as it may appear, the inhabitants declare, that at the same time it may very piobably be heard on the shore of Lake Ontario. THE FALLS OF mAGARA— From the British side. There are large Tnng and Hotels on the Canadian side of the river, situated as near the falls as could be desired. One stands on what ought strictly to be called ' wt the upj formed gallerie of the ( the rapi Folio syth's, I of the 5 suddeni TABr tar p St, V ocene. vievv. ' 174 feet foam pre a distp.n from Ta Island di isolated breadth ! the dista ing rock necfs Go this spot It ma place as bouring j a differer be seen, that time from the beauty. Dr. D^ vels, of t of Niagai and on ar I'uns six 1 miles, the more than it to be 6, would be I TADLE ROCK. Toronto kVelland ! an uni- int Jake by some n miles, '2. is con- !St culti- 's Hole, going to the wa« 'e driven king the ay falling the river, nd rocky it a con- indicates he whole ig to this getting a conceal- near. It alaract is ervening se of the Yet, p, that at the shore tish side. dian side :ould be be called fl 53 the upper bank, for that elevation appears to have once formed the river's shore. This is the lar^'er house; the galleries and windows in the rear command a fine view of the cataract, although not an entire one, and overlook the rapids and river for S3veral miles above. Following a footpath thr*. jgh the pasture beliind For- syth's, the stranger soo., finds himself on the steep brow of the second hank, and the mighty cataract of Niagara suddenly opens henealh him. Tab' ;•- Rock is a projection a few yards from the ca- tarP'.t, which commands a fmo view of this magnificent ocene. Indeed it is usually considered the finest |)oint of view. The height of the fall on this side is said to be 174 feet perpendicular; and this height the vast sheet of foam preserves unbroken, quite round the Grand Crescent, a distance, it is estimated of 700 yards. The distance from Table Rock lo Termination Rock is 153 feet Goat Island divides the ".at'Aract, and just beyond it stands an isolated rock. ". c fall on the American side is in breadth 900 feet, ti... height 160, and about two thirds the distance to the bottom the sheet is broken by project- ing rocks. A bridge built from the American side con- nects Goat Island and the main land, though invisible from this spot. It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this place as often as he can, and to view it from every neigh- bouring point; as every change of light exhibits it under a differetit and interesting aspect. The rainbows are to be seen, from this side, only in the afternoon ; but at that time the cloudj of mist, which are continually rising from the gulf below, often present them in the utmost beauty. Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, m his Tra- vels, of the quantity of water which passes the cataract of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7 furlongs wide, and on an average 25 feet deep. The current probably I'uns six miles an hour; but supposing it to be only 5 miles, the quantity that passes the falls in an hour, is more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we suppose it to be 6, it will be more than 102 millions ; and in a day would be 2400 millions ol tons. The noise, it is said, is ij mmv^^ >r' 04 tlAPlDS. |: r r m [Mi: I Kl ii ;^i i:\ i! sometimes'heard at Toronto, 50 miles.^ Table Rock is 66 fed below the level of Lake Eric. The Rapids begin about half a mile above the ca- taract. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood regard it as certain death to get once involved in them. Instances are on record of persons being carried down by the stream ; but no one is known to have ever s\irvived. In- deed, it is very rare that the bodies are found. Wild ducks, geese, &c. are frequently precipitated over the ca- taract, and generally reappear cither dead or with their legs or wingo broken. The most sublime scene is presented to the observer when he views the cataract from below; and there he may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. This scene is represented in the plate. To render the descent practicable, a spiral staircase has been formed a little way from Tab!? Rock, supported by a tall mast; and the strancjer descends without fear, because his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough path among the rocks winds alongat the foot of the precipice, although the heaps of loose stones which have fallen down, keep it at a considerable height al ove ihe water. A large rock lies on the very brink of tht river, about 15 feet longr and 8 feet thick, which yon may climb up by means of a lad- der, and enjoy the best central vitwof the falls anywhere to be found. This rock was formerly a part of the pro- jection above, and fell about 20 years ago, with a tremen- dous ro?.r. In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, the path leads far under the excavated bank, which in one place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The vast column of water continually pouring over the preci- pice, produces violent whirls in the air; and the spray is driven out with such force, that no one can approach to the edcre of the cataract, or even stand a few moments near it, without being dreriched to the skin. It is also very difficult to breathe there, bo that persons with weak lungs would act prudently to content themselves with a distant view, and by no means to attempt to go under the cataract. The celebrated navigator captain Basil Hall, on a visit here in 1837, found that the air under the cat gusts witness tremen( steps. In tl Michiga rapids, v of persf number deck, cc ed the f at the 3C an instai her awaj the shoK her nppe the catar ments th ments, w the only The'E falls, ancj ver, is a is warm, gen gas, ground, barrel is per tube, of it, the bright fla While vary ""'s t Chippew{ ing the la two sharf: tish and Ripley or Chippewa VALLS or NIAGARA. 53 the cataract is notjcompressed : but he considered the gusts of wind more violent than any gab he had ever witnessed. Those who are devsirous of exploring this tremendous cavern, should attend very carefully to their steps. In the summer of 1827, an old schooner called the Michigan, jWas lowed by a row Itoat to the margin of the rapids, where she was abandoned to her fate. Thousands of persons had assembled to witness the descent. A number of wild animals had been inhumanly placed on her deck, confined, to pass the cataract, with her. She pass- ed the first fall of the rapide in safety, but struck a rock at the second and lost her masts. There she remained an instant, until the current turned her round and bore her away. A bear here leaped overboard and swam to the shore. The vessel soon filled and sank, so that only her upper works were afterwards visible. She went over the cataract almost without being seen, and in a few mo- ments the basin was perceived all scattered with her frag- ments, which were very small A cat and a goose were the only animals found alive below. The Burning Spring. About half a mile above the falls, and within a few feet of the rapids in Niagara Ri- ver, is a remarkable Burning Sprmg. The water, which is warm, turbid, and surcharged with sul[)hiirated hydro- gen gas, rises in a barrel which has been placed in the ground, and is constantly in a state of ebullition. The barrel is covered, and the gas escapes only through a cop- per tube. On bringing a candle within a little distance of it, the gas takes fire, and continues to burn with a bright flame until blown out. While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter mav vary ""^s time very agreeably, by visiting the village of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vicinity ; which, dur- ing the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes of two sharp contests. The Battle of Chippewa. In July, 1814, the Bri- tish and American armies being near each other. General Kipley ordered General Scott to make an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with Captain Towton's di- 6 'Mil »''>'«• I MmmM i '•'if i 56 BAITLK OF CHiri'KVVA. m Mit Ih vision of artillery ; and the enemy's pickets forct,.' to retire acn js the bridge. General J up in tue afternoon and encamped with General Sc^i t'? advance. The stranger may be gratified by examining the field of these operations, by gomg to Chippewa Village, about two miles above Forsyth's. The American encampment of July 23d, is in the rear of a tavern near the road, about a mile beyond Chippewa, On the 5th, after some sharp shooting, the Indians were discovered almost in the rear of the American camp. At this moment General Porter arrived with his volunteers* arid Indians. General Brown immediately directed them to enter the woods and effectually scour them. Gens. Brown, Scott, and Kipley were at the white house, in advance, reconnoitering. General!^ ter's corps had al- most debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when the whole British force had crossed the Chippewa Bridge, ard General Scott advanced, and Gen. Kipley was in readiness to support. In a few minutes the British tine was discovered formed and rapidly advancing — their ri^ht (the Royal Scots) upon the woods, and their left the Prince Regent's) on the river, with the king's own for their reserve. Their object was to gain the bridge across the creek in front of tiie encampment, which would have compelled the Americans to retire. Gen. Brown, fearing a flank movement of the unemy through the woods on the left, di-ected General Ripley not to advance until he gave him orders. Meanwhile Qe r''al Scott, under a most tremendous fire from the euerr ''a artillery, crossed the bridge, and formed his line. The British orders were to give one volley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such was the warmth of our musquetry that they could not withi^tand it. At this moment General Brown sent orders to General Ripley to make a movement through the woods upon the enemy's right flank. With the 2l6t regiment he passed a ravine in hi? front, where the men had to wado up to their chins, and advanced as rapidly as possible. But before he commenced filing from the woods into the open land under the enemy's batteries, N '^mmM RATTLE a? !'. re iDGK WATER. 57 ield of about pment , about ndians , camp, jnteers* d thetn Gens. (Use, in had al- i, when Bridge, was in ish line sir riuht ?ft the twn for ' across Id have fearing on ihe He gave most ed the were to charge. at they Brown vement With where iced as \g from itteries, ihry hs:! been completely broken by General Scott's bri- gade, and threw themselves across the Chipp;.v. n linage, which they broke down. Although the Americans were not able to cross the creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa very precipitately, and to retreat towards Queenstown. In this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded and missing, was 514, and the American loss 328. Nothing of importance occurred after this until the 2.3th of the same month, the date of Tlie Battle of Bripgewatkr, or Lundy's Lane. The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody action is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an obscure road, called Lundy'ii Lane. Since their retreat from Chippewa, the enemy had received reinforcements of \ troops from Lord Wellmfrton's army in Spain ; and on the *5th of July encamped on a hill, with the desiga of attacking the American camp the next morning. At 6 in the evening, General Brown ordered General Scott to advance and attack them, which was immediately done ; and in conjunction with Genrral Ripley the attack was commenced in an hour. The British were much surpris- ed at seeing the approach of their enemy at this hour, not having discovered them until they left the woods and began to march across the open level fields seen from Forsyth's Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the left. The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of the American regin.ents, the day after the engagement, contains some interesting particulars: '* The enemy had collected their whole force in the peninsula, and were reinforced by troops fron» Lord Wel- lington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two hours the two hostile lines were within twenty yards of each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon shcne bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glen- garian regiment caused the deception. They frequently charged, and were as often driven back Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the British battery. We charged, and took every piece of the ene- -> ^"^ i 58 WKI.LAND CANAL. t . i,k my's cannon. We kept possession of the grouna nnd oannori until 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell )ack more than two miles. This was done to secure our c imp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of them killed, and there oeing no ropes to the pieces, vve got olf but two or three The men wvire so excessively fatigued they could rot drag them. We lost one piece of cannon, vvhitih v\as too much advanced, every man being shot that had charge of it, but two Several of our caissons were bk wt.^ ^'P hy their rockets, which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of ammunition. The lines were so near that can- non could not be used wirh advaniage." The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 878; and the Americans 860. The VVelland canal begins near the mouth of Grand River, Upper Canada, empties itself into Lake Erie, about 10 miles from Niag-ara. It will admit the largest ves>5els on the lakes, viz. those of 125 tons. Here is Po7-i MaitUind, which is capable of receiving a number of vessels such as navigate the Lake, for which the Canal is calculated. Grand River serves as a part of the navigable line for a distance of 128 chains ; and then Broad Creek for 70 chains. The excavations theic commence, and the Canal enters the Maiiifiect Marsh. This is a tract of swnmpy land, elevated only about 8 feet above the level of Lake Erie, and extending from its shore to Wei land or Chippewa River. The canal passps it by a thorough cut ten miles long and varying from 10 to IG feet in depth, communi- cating with many ponds and pools. It is a fact well esta- blished by scientific surveyors, that only a narrow ledge of rocks occurs between the two lakes, and that, if this were removed, the soil is generally of so loose a nature, that a oprrent of water might soon wear away a deep channel (irain otT Lake Erie, and cause a tremendous in-'ndatio!.. This barrier will be eeon at the Mountain Ridge, ^m tho northern part of the Canal, where the de- scent is above 300 feet. From Lake Erie to that place the stranger will observe that he proceeds on an almost uiiinter. '^pted level. The continuation of tlie Mountain rXU.n OF NIAGARA. 59 "•_d yc^ ^«. %'^ v*^ >"t»; •k* 1 V- U V. , .*i r^ oeing The deep PJdgc forms the Falls of Niagara, and the elevation of ground at Lockport, surmounted by the noble works at that place. It runs for many miles, presenting towards the east an irreguLir line of precipice, with sali- ent and re-entering angles, like an immense fortification. Most of the streams which fall over it pour dov^^n the favines thus formed. The Wclland River, a very sluggish stream, is used for 10 miles, benig entered by a lock of 8 feet lift, a tow- ing path being formed along its bank. On leaving Welliind iliver, the boats pass a ravine 66 chains in length, where the excavations arc 8 or 10 feet deep. The Deep Cut. Wo approach a part of the canal in which the greatest labour and expense were required. It extends 1 j miles, and required the excavation of 1,477,- 700 cubic yards of earth. The excavation is to an aver- age depth of 4.5 feet. The ground is undulating, and the greatest depth is 56 feet. The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a mile and 55 chains arc 17 locks of 22 feet by iOO, which over- come nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie above On- tario. The canal winds along the face of the descent, being on the left and right, to give room for reservoirs between the locks, necessary for a convenient supply of water. None of the locks are less than 30 yards apart. This is the only part of the route where rocks were to be excavated, and the amount of rock I'cmoved here was 70,000 cubic yards. At the foot of this long and steep descent the canal en- ters a ravine, which extends 2| miles through 12 lock:*, between high banks, to St. Catherine's. The descent from the top of the ridge to this place is 322 feet. To Lake Ontario from this place, 5 miles, there are 4 locks, -52 feet by J "''5, and one of 10 feet lift. The route runs chietiy along the val- ley of the principal branch of the Twelve Mile Creek. Port Dalhousic, the harbcur of the Welland Canal on Lake Ontario, is protected by two fine piers, run out 200 or 350 yards, nearly at tho angle of gtorra, which ii about 80 degrees weal. 6* '*• [: i'^'; 60 THE WESTERN LAKES. y^ i ■ ■|' Tlio locks arc of wood, butbiiilt on the most approved prinriplcs. Tho ronirnon dimensions arc 100 foot loi,^', 22 widf and 8 derj) ; and arc calculated for vessels of from lUO to 12.3 tons hurt lion. Toronto, the capital of Upper Canada, is n place of cor- siderablo sr/e. The public buildir'i,''^ inake little figure. The hai)our is very line, prorcctcvl by d<'fensive works 07i Gibraltar I'oint. Kind's C ; and ita surface is m>arly 595 feel above the lide wiiter. Michigan is 400 miles long-, 50 wide, depth unknown; elevation the same as Huron. Green Bay is about 105 miles long-, 20 miles wide, depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and Mi- chit,^an. Lake Superior is 459 miles long", 109 miles average width, 900 feet deep; and its surface 1048 feet above the tide water Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as the foot of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each of the other lakes it will be observed, is lower than the surface of the ocean. Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reservoir of the mighty volume. After making a semicircle of five degrees to the south, accommodating and enriching one of the most fertile and interesting sections of the globe, it meets the tide a distance of 2000 miles from its source, and 5000 from the extreme point of its estuary, on the At- lantic coast. The lakes arc said to have a periodical rise once in twelve year'^. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a mile be- low the Falls, and may be crossed at any hour in the day, without danger, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current. The descent from the bank is so steep, that it has been necessary to build a staircase. To Bvjfnlo, on the Canada side, 28^ miles, to Chip- pewa 2, Waterloo (Fort Erie) 16, (over the ferry to Black Kock, 25 cents each passenger,) to Buffalo 2^. Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains of Fort Eric, a fortress of great consequence in the late war. — There was a strong wall, surrounded with entrenchments rear.hing to the lake. The remains of the British camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded with shot. Battle of Erie. On the 17th of September, 1814, a severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort Erie, when a part of the American garrison, 1000 regulars and 3000 militia, made a sortie, and took the British works, about 500 yards in front of their line. The British had two batteries on their left, which annoyed the fort, and >ij m >'2 V n ■:i\>Vi H wmM ca BAtTLl ol» RRIE. I i, #: lO ■ >ver© about openinc: a third. Their camp was about twn miles distant, shcltorcdhy n wood J tlieir works wore «;:ar'' riaoncd with one third of their infantry, from 12 to 1500 men, and a detachinrnt of artillfry. Gen. Porter with the vohmteors, Col. Gibson with the riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d and 21st lijjht infantry, and a fcnv dismounted dragoons, were sent from the extreme loft of the American position, by a passage cut through the woods, towards the enemy's right ; and Gen. Miller wa^ stationed in the nivinc between the fort and the enemy's batteries; while Gen. Kipley had a re- serve under the bastions. A little before 3 P. M. the left columns commenced their attack on the enemy's right, and Gen. Miller at the same time pushed forward between Nos. 2 p.nd 3 of the batteries, broke their line, and took their two block houses. Battery No. 1 was soon aft.'r deserted, the gung were spiked, and the magazine of No. 3 was blown Up. Gen, Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson killed. The action lasted about an hour, which gave time for the remaining two-thirds of the enemy's force to march from their camp and partake in it The Americans at length retired with prisoners, having succeeded in their object. The B'-itish suffered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Dr'im- tnond broke up his camp on the 2l3t, and retired to his intrenchments behind the Chippewa River. To Bvjfalo, on the American side, 30 1 miles. Tona- Wanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 miles; Black Rock, 10 miles; Buffalo, 2^ miles. To Fort George, 14 miles. Queenstown, 7 miles; Fort George, 7 miles. [The route from Niagara to Albany and the Springs will be taken up after tho route to Montreal.] — See p. 66, ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 392 miles. I Those who have never travelled through the state of New-York, and have leisure to make so circuitous a route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Roches- ter, and take the lino of the railroad or Erie Canal, the Spring*, Lake George, and Lake Champlain, in their way I 10 re par' 1500 •ith tlic »l ligVil nt fronii passago It ; niid the tort ad a re* imrnccd ^r at the 3 of the L) block ted, the is blown n killed, c for the rch from It length r ol)ject. l)i tni- ed to his Tona- ; Black '^ miles ; Springs ee p. 66» of :al, state luitous Roches* [anal, the Iheir way 1. K^i r.'. ^ \^ ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I I I^|2j8 |25 ■so ^^ III^H £f ISA £ U° 12.0 u ik L25 III 1.4 1.6 6" <^ V] ^^>. "V^"" v: /^ '^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRUT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4S03 ■^ ril to Mon direct Ontari( rican I ing tow cipal p ;,<:eor a the boui out of s From boats, 4 boat on 74; Gre bour, 4( burgh, J 30; sta£ du Lac, to Lach Do. I Lcwistor U. C. 3( Gananoq Port ( River, is torn hou county, gently w iVew-Yor mouth, t< and perp eluding I coaches Carthage Great fiuccessioi three isla hay, only good road Oswegt of Osweg( water. The ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 68 to Montreal. Many, however, will prefer to take the more direct route, which is by the steamboats throus^h Lake Ontario, and is performed in about two days. The Ame- rican boats go from Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh, keep- ing towards the southern shore, and touching at the prin- cipal ports. The British boats make a few stops, but Acer a course very near the middle of the lake, which is the boundary between the two countries : they are usually out of sight of land about twelve hours. From Niagara to Montreal in the American steam- boats, 414 miles ; stagecoach to Lewiston, 7 m. ; steam- boat on liake Ontario to Fort Niagara, 7 ;* Genesee river, 74; Great Sodus Bay, 35; Oswego, 28; Sackett's Har- bour, 40 ; Cape Vincent, 20 ; Morristown, 50 ; Ogdens- burgh, 12 ; Prescott, U. C, 1 ; Dickinson's Landing, 30; stagecoach to Cornwall, 12; steamboat to Coteau du Lac, 41; stagecoach to the Cascades, 16; steamboat to Lachine, 24 ; stagecoach to Montreal, 9. Do. British steamboats, 449 miles; stagecoach to Lewiston, 7 ; steamboat to Fort George, 7 ; Torcmto, U. C. 30; Port Hope, 65; Coburg, 7; Kingston, 105; Gananoque, 24 ; Brockville, 32 ; Prescotr, 12. See above. Port Genesee, 72 miles at the mouth of the Geneseo River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here are a cus- tom house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe county. This river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a gently winding course about 125 miles in the state of jN'ew-York. It is navigable only four miles from its mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are high, rocky, and perpendicular; and there is a fine fall (104 feet, in- cluding the rapids, &c.) about half a mile above. Stage- coaches are in waiting for Rochester, 6 miles. See Carthage, page 46. Great Sodus Bay, 35 m. Here are three bays in succession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are three islands, and Port Glascow is at the head of the bay, only 10^ miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a good road to it. Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth of Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with 10 feet water. Navigation on the river ends half a mile above, i it • The old French fort Frontenac, destroyed in 1758. 64 PORT oswiao. 'r. tH: except for boats, which go 12 miles farther. A very large button-wood tree, 35^ feet in circumference, is seen a mile from the village near the road. This place had a rapid growth. The Oswego Canal joins the Crie Canal at Salina, and will afford an interest- ing excursion either way. From the hrnd of the falls to the village, it leads along the river's bnnk, prosnrving the elevated level almost to the brow of the hill over tho lake, and then descends by lot^ks. For :he distance of a mile, the interval between the canal and the river utibrds the most advantageous situations for manufactories of vari- ous descriptions. Lake vessels can lie on one side of the manufactories and canal boats on the other; and Congress have appropriated money for protecting the harbour with piers. The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. Fort Oswkoo, so famous in the history of the Frenc and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the river. The situation was very advantageous for the command of a large extent of country, as this river is the common outlet of all the interior 1' kes of the state. While this post was held alternately by the French and English, they could command a great part of the trade with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the country with which it communicated. Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the level of the water; and being overlooked by the emi- nence on which Fort Ontario was afterwards erected, was fit only for a defence in early times. A trading house was built here in 1722, and a fort five years after. This was extended in the beginning of the French war of 1755, when Fort Ontario was built. On the follow- ing year, General Montcalm came from Canada, and besieged the fortresses with 3,000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was evacuated after one attack ; and on the fc' lowing day, August 14th, Fort Oswego surren- dered to the French, with a large quantity of stores brought at great expense through the wilderness, and 21 cannon, 14 mortars, &c. also two sloops, and about 200 boats. The captors, however, did not think proper to hold the position, but immediately abandoned it. Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this route in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Bur- Coyne ; Wiilet, In n place, ai uf it, bui Sacki late war, creased > on Iloun: narrow pi in.q-. MORRJ Ogdensbi breadth, j is a numb the gentle a great de General Ogdens end of the village is j on conside i3 Prescot ruins of Fc be traced. ~'b-proo The Th< the naviga of forms, They mig George. Gallop lawrence rent places some conse on his wr.y St. Reg "iiine have Lachiwe Mo.fTRiy ^i/i. :'i :} •I! .;' . ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MOWTREAL. 6J A very ice, is Canal nterest- fal'.s to nng the ivcr the ncc of a r atibrJ:^ i of vari- le of the Uongresa our with ego. e Frenc Ae of the for the J river is the state, rench and the trade bitcd the from the the emi- 1 erected, trading ears after, rench war je follow- lada, and o vessels. , and on o surren- of stores |s, and 21 about 200 proper to Iny by this iGen. Bm- royne; but he was repulsed at Fort Stanwix by Col. Willet, and obliged to return. In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the place, and, after a loss of about 100 men, got possession of it, but evacuated it the next day. Sackett's Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the late war, it became an important naval station, and in- creased very rapidly It is 8 miles distant from the lake, on Hounslow Bay. The harbour is divided into two by a narrow point, and offers great advantages for ship build- in,-: MoRRisTOWN. This is a small village, 10 miles from Ogdensburgh. The river is a little more than a mile in breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There is a number of rocky islands in the St. Lawrence, and the gentle slope of the land on the New-York shore, adds a great degree of beauty to the scene. General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. Ogdensburgh, formerly Oswegatchie. This is the end of the navigation, and here the steamboat stops. The village is pretty, contains some large stores, and carries on considerable business. On the other side of the river 13 Prescott, where the British steamboat stops. The ruins of Fort Oswegatchie, or Fort Presentation, may still be traced. It was not very large, and contained only a --'b-proof, tvvo buildings of stone, barracks, &c. The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of the navigation, presenting themselves in every variety of forms, though never rising to any great elevation.— They might be compared with the islands of Lake George. Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. lawrence begin. A number of mills will be seen at diffe- rent places on the shore. On Stony Island was a fort of some consequence, which was taken by General Amherst on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. St. Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this niiine have a reservation of land here 11 miles by 3, Lachine, 53 m. (See Index.) MoNTRiAL, 9 m. (See do.) 'V'kaiii 1- rt 66 nUFFALO. m ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. Railroad to Buffalo or to Lockport. Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the mar- gin of Niagara Hiver, a little way from its head, and op- posite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was burnt by the British during the war in 1814, but has sines been rebuilt and increased to a much greater size. Black Rock long disputed with Butfalo the privilege of having the Basin of the Canal built in her harbour, and at last obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was built to secure the boats and vessels from the waves of the lake, as well as to raise the water for the supply of the canal to Genesee River. But the swiftness of the current in the river, and the heaping up of ttie ice on the shore, proved great obstacles to the navigation. BUFFALO— 3 miles from Black Rock. In\s. The Eagle Tavern, Buffalo House, American and City Hotels. The situation of this town is remarkably convenient and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome dwelling houses, together with several public buildings, all erected since the burning of the village by the British in 1814, as well as the builduigs in the other streets, which are fast increasing every year. In April, 1814, only one house was standing in the village, that of a wi- dow in the upper part of the street. A walk has also been laid out on the brow of the hill towards the lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords a charming view upon the lake, the harbour, and the canal, to Black Rock. The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature for the junction of the two kinds of navigation which are here b shclte; and th afford i goods. con nee of a b{ the cai land I] steam b The above t The I Lake. 'A'here i which s a mile f jalf-dr-c six feet, and logj of the V matter, J ncss. some by the VOY/ At Bi are dispt little to would re ride ovei cnce.s h( comrnodi menfs. Weste troit, Ml passing ( gett's Po WESTERN KOL'TKS. «r here brought together : the entrance from ihe lake being sheltered by the point on which the light house is erected, and the two small rivers which here unite their waters^, affordiwg every convenience for landing and leshippmg goods. The shores of these are very bold, and they are connected by a natural channel, which serves the purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy communication ; and as the canal to Black Hock commences close by it, the in- land transportation be.ains without more ado. Fine steamboats are constantly plying on the lake. The water of the creek is brought into the village from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long. The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore jf the Lake. The first part of it is through a low, sandy level, 'A'here the excavations were much impeded by the water which soaked through in great abundance. About half a mile from Buffalo, the workmen hit upon a bed of old jalf-df'cayed trees, which was dug into to the depth of six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many branches and logs were discovered, which preserved all the grain of the wood ; but the greater part was a black niass of matter, which, «m being dried, burned with great readi- ness. In some places, ashes and coals were found ; and some of the logs appeared to have been washed and rolled by the water of the lake before they were buried. VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE, AND WESTERN ROUTES. At Buffalo op-^ns a very extensive route, for those who are disposed to travel still farther westward. There is little to be seen along either shore of the Lake, which would reward a common traveller for the tedium of a long ride over a counirv generally level, or for the inconveni- ences he would experience from the want of public ac- commodations, and even the frequent absence of settle- ments. Western Routes. Two steamboats start daily for De- troit, Michigan, 311 miles, and arrive in about 36 hours, passing Cattaraugus, 20, Dunkirk 13, Portland, 18, Bur- gelt's Point, 18, Erie, 17, Aehtabula, Ohio, 39, Fairpoxt, r i i •'I iiS >VEaTEUN no U IKS, H i \' 32, Cleaveland, 30. (Here begins tlie Ohio and Erie Canal *) Sa:)diisky 54, ('unningham's Island, 12, North Bass Inlands, 10, Middle Sister Island, 10, Amhcrstburgh, Upper Canada, 20, to Detroit. 18. (For the routes west from Detroit, see beyond.) From Detroit to Chicago. Railroad to Ypsilanli, 33 miles, and either steamboat on Lake Michigan to St. Jo- seph's, 169, (or by land through Jonesville, 35, Cold- water, 20, Sturges' Prairie, 25, Mollville 17, St. Jo- seph's, 40 ) Or, by steamboat on Lake Huron, River St. Clair, 40, Palmer,' 17, Fort Gratiot, 14, While Rock, 40, Thunder Island, 70, Middle Island, 2i), Presque Isle, 65, Macki- naw, 58, Isle Brule, 75, Fort Howard, 100, Milwaukie, 310, Chicago, 90. Or, by steamboat, railroad and stage coaches, by steam- boat to Toledo, 71, railroad to Adrian, 33, stagecoach to Tecumseh, 10 Niles, 100, Michigan city, Indiana, 40, steamboat to Chicago, Illinois, 55. The following are the stopping places on the passage to Detroit, with their distances ; and steamboats run al- most every day. (See Ohio Canal, Inde.'t.) From Buffalo to Erie, 90 miles, Erie to Grand River, 75, Grand River to Cleaveland, 30, Cleaveland to San- dusky, 60, Sandusky to Detroit, 75, total 330. * The Ohio and Erie Canal, 307 miles lonp, extends to Ports- rnculh. It ims ilie breadth anil dapth of the New -York Erie Ca- iiul, and il85 lockage. From Cleuveland it pusres 37 miles along C'iyaiioga river, !lcro^s Tortage summit, down Tuscara *as river up Tonioka creek, up Licking river down the Sciota thruugh Cir- cleville, nearChiliicuthc to iho Oliio to Portsmouth. Distances Cleaveland to Cuyahoga Aqueduct 22 miles. Old Portage, 12, Now Portage, D. Clinton, 11, Bethlehem, 17, Bolivar, 9, Dover. 10, Newcomer's Town, 26, Coshocton, 17, Irville, 26, Newark, 13, Hebron, 10, 'iicking Summit, 5, Lrmcaster, 11. (Here ii 9. branch to Columbus, 18.) Bloomfield, 8, Circieville, 9, Chilli- cothe,25, Piketon, 2.'{, Lucusville. 14. Portsmoutli, 13. Steamboat Route down the Ohio and Mississippi to Neto-Or- Jeans. Portsmouth to Vancel)urgh, Kentucky, 20, Manchester, Ohio. 16, Muysviile, Kentucky, 11, Charleston, Ky, 4, Ripley, Ohio, 6. Augusta, Ky. 8, Neville, Ohio, 7, Moscow,7, Port Pleasant, 4, N. Richmond, 7,^Colunibia, 15, Fulton, 6, Cincinnati, 2, Louis- villfl, Kentucky, 143, Mississippi River, 366, New-Orleana, 1284. Tl of th An wnrdj ing rt the ro form f from t Erie, i See tl have J &C, CO Catara to the ] creeks tant fro distanc said to I tion. Sene and vah and the The Sell of the F rank in most nu periorlt} Schuylei spicuous R Bata lage, anc the Holl ings. It road rou p.'ace, 9] Lero^ Tho \| 4000 acn fhp hankc ;WI nOT:TK3 FROM IflAGARA TO ALDAXT. C9 Eiie ^orth argh, v\eat Li, 33 t. Jo- Cold- X. Jo- ir, 40, lunder ^acki- 'aukie, steatn- )ach to na, 40, )asaage run al- River, San- to Ports- iho Ga- les along as river lugh Cir- les. Old Bolivar, Mile, 2G, |l. (Here ), Chilli - ^euJ-Or- Ir.cliester, Ripley, Measant, Louis- . 1284. Tho United States government have improved several of these harbours. Ancient Fortifications. — On Buffalo Creek, and to- wards Geno^cc River also, are several laige and interest- ing remnants of ancient fortilications: bin as they lie ofV the road, lew travellers will visit them. They appear to form part of a great chain of detbiisivo workb, exiouding' from the eastern pjirt of Lake Ontario, along that Lake and Erie, down tho Ohio ond Mississippi Rivers to Mexico. See the books of Mr. Delatield and Mr. Atwater, who have published some very interesting details, drawings, &c. connected with rhem. A line of old forls extends from Cataraiigiis Creek ') miles, along the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Penn ^ivania. They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, although now from 2 to 5 miles dis- tant from the Lake, which ir, supposed to have retired that distance since they were built. Another similar line is said to exist in the rear of them, on another parallel eleva- tion. Seneca Castle. — The Seneca nation possess a large and valuable tract of land adjoining Buttalo on the east, and they have two vill'iges 3 and 5 miles on the road. The Senecas are the westernmost tribe in the confederacy of the Five Nations, and have always held a conspicuous rank in their history. They were formerly considered the most numerous and powerful tribe, and preserved this su- periority until the fatal defeat they received from General Schuyler, in 177 8, since which they have made a less con- spicuous figure. Road from Buffalo to Caxandaioua. Batavia, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome vil- lage, and contains the residence of the former Agents of tho Holland Land Company, as well as the county build- ings. It is 873 feet above tide. The sum.nilt of the rail- road route between Buflialo and Albany, is just w«!St of this p)ace, 912 feet. Leroy, 10 miles. Tho Wadsworth Farm, at Geneseo, contains about 4000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land on the banks of Genesee river. I'll h r«-' '*mEI 1.1 70 nURNINO SPRINGS. •J . The Genosen moarlows aro tho wlioftt rrgion of tlie state, GO mil«*s UiUf^, and I or '2 iniliM wide, and composed of limestone and sand. Tliey were formerly the rei^idence of a liiri;e trilie of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and when Gen. Sullivan reaclK^d this place in his mrirch ihrouph the country, he fomid and hurnt a village of 120 lo:r houses, on the second bank, wliich had been deserted at his ap- proach. The remains of a Mammoth were dui( up about lialf a mile from thi" village of G.meseo in 18"25. There were 8 teeth and i^rinders, parts of a tusk, a thiiih bone .3 feet long, the lower bone of the leg, 3 fijet 6 inches, (fcc. They lay between strata of vegetable mould and sand. West Bloomfikld, beyond the Genesee River, is one of the finest agricultuial townships in the state, nnd pre- sents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care and yielding the finest crops. Fcuit thrives remarkably well in all this western country. The prevailing winds are south west, and the climate rnild and uniform. Wheat some- times yields 52 bushels to the acre. East Bloomfield is the next village. Canandaksua. This is one of the finest western towns, nnd its principal street runs along the ridge ofacommand- ing hill, rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. It is wide, and contains an Academy, and many handsome houses. Tho road in passing Canandaigua Lake, com- mands a finer view than on any of theotht^r lakes it passes, except Skeneateles. The banks are high and vari(^gnted, and at the distance of two or three miles, rise to an imposing height, and add a great degree of beauty to the scene. A number of gentlemen's seats are seen along the western bank ; and a little way oif in the lake on the same side, is a small rocky island, where the Seneca Lidians carried all their women, children, and old men, when Gen. Sullivan appeared against them. Railroad cars go to Rochester and to Batavia every day. Burning Springs. Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, are quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. The gas from the former rises through fissures of the ^late., from both the margin and the bed of the brook. Their places are known by little hillocks of a few feet iff ROUTE VROM NlAf.ARA TO ALBAWr. 1 I Btatc, ^P(l of ciicc iif I when jpli the |l()llSC3, his ap- ; )mlf a wero 8 ;ot long, .'hey lay r, is one nnd pre- pare and ihly wi^U re south at some- rn towns, Dmmand- i Lake, andsome ve, com- t paA3er<, n«^g:ited, imposing :cne. A western c side, is arriod all , Sullivan ivery day . ffcd with ddlesex. res of the ook. few feet Jn diameter, and a few inches hip;h, formed of a dark bitu- minous mould, throu<;h which il linds its way to the sur- face, in one or more currents These currents of pus may he 8(!t on lire, and will hum with a steady llarne. In win- ter tliey form openiii^rs throuizii the siu)w, and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and interesting phenomenon of u steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these curnuits of gas, ([)rohably from the freezing of the water contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height of two or three tV-et, th(» gas is>»uing from their tops; the whole wlum lighted in a still evening, present- ing an appearance even more bi'uutiful than the former. From a pit which was sunk in one of the hillocU^i, the gas was conducted through bored logs, to the kit oad between Carnindaigua and Geneva pa-ses over a singular tract of country. I'he ground gradually rises by large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the dis* tance, and di^scends in the same manner on the other side to Seneca Lake. They appear to have been formed by those strong currents of water of which geologists speak, which at some ancient period of time have evidently passed over many tracts o^ country in diflerent parts of the world. The ridges and channels thus formed here stretch north and south, frerpiently to a considerable dis- tance, correspiinding both in form and direction with the numerous lakes which are found in this part of the state. Several ancient fortifications have been traced here.— - From the middle ridge the view is extensive, but the sur- rounding country is of too uniform a surface to present any remarkakle variety of scenery. Geneva. This town occupies a charming situation at the foot of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank, which rises to a considerable elevation above the surftice, and aftords room for v broad and level street. The buildings in this village are remarkably neat and handsome, and it has a college. Seneca Lake is 1)5 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Tts d»»pth is nnn^ually great, and the water rlcjir and vory '■1 7*^ 7'Z Avnvns. I • Y- r.dld. to which U atrrihiitod tljp srnrcify of fisli. There 19 u r(Mnfirl\iiI>!ii ji'icnoTnt'iion lotiij; ()l)sr»vc(l hy those who rnsido nonrit, wliich him never Ixmmi sati^fiietoiily u' count- v(\ for. Th(? water h;is a re^uliir ri>om the village of Ithaca. The village of Itliaca is neat and flourishing. IJero centre the roads to CntsJii/l, Newburgh and New- York. The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River, ihe second passes the (ireat Bend of the Delaware, and the lliird furnishes daily the shortest route to New-York. The Cascade. This beautiful and romantic scene is about three miles from the village. Auburn is another beautiful village, ard merits the name it has borrowed from Goldsmith's charming poetry. It is unfortunately placed at some distance from Oswego Lake, and therefore is deprived of the picturesque charac- ter which it might have enjoyed. There is a Presbyte- rian Theological Seminary in Auburn, and several hand- some public buildings in this place, but the most important is the Statk Prison. This institution, having been managed by iMr. Lynds, and the first established on his system so excellent, so celebrated, and with remarkable success, merits particular notice. Many of the new prisons in the United States are built after this general plan, which is also much approved in Europe. " The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost about $300,000. It was constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, enclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 feet in height. ** The new one, designed to contain 400 cells, covers only 206 by 46 feet of ground. Thtpre are fivo itorites df cells, TIOUTE PROM NlAOAnA TO ALHANT. 7n r-nrh rontainin* eighty in two piirallol linos, divulrd in tlio mitHlo by a wiill two feet thick. Tho wulU boLwron tho cells jin* OIK* foot thick. Tho colls aro seven foot lonsj, fln'cM hi:,'li, nrid throe nnd a half wide, intended to rrceivo ouly Olio convict in each. Euch coll has a veiitihitor ex- tendin:^ to tho roof, and is so coti'^trnctod in front, timt the prisoners cart noilher converse or make si£;ns to each other. Tho area around lh(> colls is 10 feet wide and open to tho roof, which (hovers the jinllories ol the several stories. Besides the moral l)one(it arising from k(vping the prisoners f^fpara'e, it nnites thnt of economy and secu- rity. From tho construction of tho prison, five small stoves, six large and twelve small lamp-s, all out of reach of the convicts, afford heat and light to 5.35 celU ; and one centin(d is sulficiontlo 'lOi) prisoners." Ancient Fortiji cations. There aro some remains of ancient tortitlcations in tho vicinity of this plac«\ as well as in tho neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onondaga, and Pompey. FiioM AuBiTRS TO Syracuse. /??/ the Canal, Similes. (Stagecoach to Weed's Basin,) 8 miles; .Ionian Village, in Camillas township, () ; Canton, (h;ilf-vvay village be- tween Buflalo and Albany, 179 miles from tho former, and 183 from the latter,) G ; Gcddes Village, (with salt works,) 12; Syracuse, 2. By the Road, 28 miles. Skeneateles, 8 ; Marccllus, 6; Onondaga, 10; Syracuse, 4. Syracuse. For a description of this plac?, as well as of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Salt Manufactories, see page 42, &c. Abcnit 3,000,000 bushels of salt made yearly. From Syracusk to IItica. Bt/ the Canal, 61 miles. Manlius Landing,* 9 miles; Chitteningo Creek, 8 ; Canas- tota Village and basin, 8 ; Oneida Creek, 5 ; Wood Creek, 13; Rome, 3 ; Oriskany Village, 8; Whitesborough, 3; Utica, 4. By the Road, 48 miles. Dome, 3 miles ; Manlius, 3 ; Sullivan, 9 ; Vernon, 11; Westmoreland, 6 ; New Hart- ford, 7 ; Utica, 4. For Uticay Hamilton College, and Trenton Falls, see page 38. * About 20 yards from the cnnnl, Gypsum (plaster of Paris) is obtained in niassQB of from I to 100 tons. 'I *:\ u STILLWATER. tf I- From Uliea to Schenectady, by the Canal 7D^ miles ' Itock, No. 53, (end of the long level, which begins weTJt* ward atSalina, and extends to this place, 69^ miles, with- out a lock,) 9 miles; Bridge over the Mohawk, and Her- kimer Village, 5; Little Falls, 8j Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet higher than the canal, 712 above h'gh water in the Hudson River, and about 145 above Lake Erie, 1; Old Mohawk Castle, 5; Fort Plain, \)\ '; Canajoharie, 4 ; a railway has been proposed to run hence to Catskill, 60; Anthony's Nose, 5 ; (this scene is repre- sented in the plate from this side — the bluff on the right i«» Anthony's Nose, on the top of which » remarkable cavern opens, extending further down than it has ever been explored) J Schoharie Creek, 11; Amsterdam Vil- Ip.ge, (across the river,) 5; Flint Hill, 6 ; Rotterdam Flats? 8 ; Schenectady, 3. Road to Albany^ \h\ miles. ROUTE FROM ALBANY tO THE SPRINGS. IVatcrford is situated on the west side of the Hudson- ncross which is a bridge. Lansinghurgh stands oppo.siuv and is a place of considerable size. The streets of Water- ford are wide, regular, and handsomely built. Some oi tho private houses are remarkable for their neatness. There are numerous rocky islands with precipitoos sidos, at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are seen at a little distance below the bridge. To these, the American Army, under Gen Schuyler, retreated in 1777, before Gen. Burgoyne, and before the battle of Saratoga. The bonl:* on the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view of them, through guard locks, and are poled across, the current being stopped by a dam. Waterford is 21^ rniloi? from Ballston Springs, and 24 to Saratoga, hy raiiroari. Stillwatlr is Hi miles above Wateiforcl ; and 4 miles beyond that place is Smithes Tavern, where those vi\\\ stop who visii the battle ground, at Behniis's Heights. Although the great crowd of travellers on this road will take the road to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as tlvey will tiud few objects of any interest, it may be })roper to introdu Gon. B known within i Stiih quietne The gives ai the Fiv( Canada gunpow ization. sequent Canada, frequent war witl upon in Thei revolutic ratoga, c appro acli "ICG Arnold I self wit! and that my coun for her ir should tl of N«?w- patrioiisr water, or examinee with ard and rapti impossib troversy iiappines and of it fl umber t ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 75 , with" I Her^ ►untain above above in, OJ •; I hence I repre- le right arkable as ever im Vil- li Flats :> NGS, )pposiu> f Water- Some of leatncss, ns aifles, K-en at « Uiieiican ore Gen/ 'he bnnt;* full vie\r rnss, the 11^ Tnilo.9 ilroan. ; and 4 re those jehmis's hrs r(>ad as tlvey iroper to introduce, in this place, an account of the expedition of Gen. Burgoyne, and the battle ol Behrnis's Heights, often known by le name of the battle of Saratoga, as we are within a low mil'^s of the field. vStillwaier takes ita name from the smoothness and quietness of the Hudson. The first battle within this region, of which history gives any account, was fought between the French and the Five Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, when the latter first learned the terrible eti'ect of gunpowder, and began to flee from the approach of civil- ization. In the numerous expeditions which at sub- sequent periods were undertaken by the British against Canada, this route was taken in the attack, and not un- frequently m the retreat. The revolution and the last war with England, produced scenes which will be touched upon in their places. The first period to which we shall refer, is that of the revolution ; and the first scene that of the battle of Sa- ratoga, or Behrnis's Heights, towards which wc are ia.st approaching. ** I could here," says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy my- self with recollecting, that to his invincible gallantry, and that of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, my country was, under God, indebted In a,primo degree, for her independence, and ail its consequent blessings. I should think that an American, peculiarly an inhabitant of N«?w-Englandor New-York, little to be envied, whose patriotism did not gain force upon the heights of Still- water, or the plains of Saratoga. These scenes I have examined: the former with solemnity and awe, the latter with ardour and admiration, and both with enthusiasm and rapture. Here I have remembered ; and here it was impossible not to remember, that on this very spot a con- troversy was decided upon which hung the liberty and ss of a nation destined one day to fill a continent ; happi and of its descendants, who will probably hereafter out- number the inhabitants of Europe." IH -. Jh I, $ BVRQOTNE S EIPEDITIOII. f!;t BcROoTNE'a Expedition. General Burgoyne* rrso appointed Governor of Canada in 1777, lo succeed Sir * Oeneral Burgoyne — (From an Engliah Work.)~'U is eurioiiA^ thrt a man o( such celebrity as a writer, a senator, and an oifi- cer, ai the tate Lieut Joha Burgoyne, should be found among tiH> number of those of whose youthful days no memorial has been preserved. Neither the lime, place, nur circumstances of his liirtb are known. Even his parentage is doubtful. He is said, but upon what authority it does not appear, to have been a naturui son of that Lord Bingly, who died at an advani^ed aire in 1774. 1 hat he had the advantage of a libnrah education and early intercourse with polished society, is sufficiently evident trom his writings ; and it is probable that he was enrly devoted to the profession of arms^ for on the 10th of May, 1759, he was raised to the rank of Lieut. Colonel, and in August of the ensuing year, he was ai>puinted Lieut. Col. CommnndHnt of the 16th Light Dragoons. Ilis afler services at different periods, in Spain, Portugal, and America, are all well known, especially the unfortunate terminatioit of his mi- litnry career at Saratoga, which, though it tarnished not bis ho- nour, cast a shade over his brow, ever afterward conspicuous to the physiogoomica) eye. He made, on certain oecasion»<, no ordinary ti^'ure in P&rlian>ent. Ho moved in the first circles, and married liudy Charlotte Stanley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and yet we know not who and what he originally was. He was the author of four successful dramas : the Maid of the Oak, the Lord of the Mauor, Richard Cceur de Lion, and the comedy of the Jieiress ; and yet the curiosity of his biographer, even in thiv aiiecdote-dealii)g and meraolr-sifting age, cannot trace his origin o. the scenes of his education. IMie lale of the Lord of the Ma- lior s^'oms, in some degree, to have been disguised in the inoiiifica- tioii of the character and circunidtaiices by the incident of his own ^iintrimonial connexion : for his was a clandestine and unauthoriz- ed marriage, at a lime when he held only RBiiiiallenrs commission in the army ; and hi said to have excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to aiich a degree, that he declared his resolution sever to admit the offenders into his presence, though in process^ Iff time, the anger of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was effect- ed, and was succeeded by a warm and lasting attachment. It i» prubable, also, that the memory of his lady, who died in 177U, aS Konsington Palace, during his absence in America, is ombalmeti hy the affectionate regrets of the General, in thai beautiful air f^ hia composition : '* Encompassed in an angePs frame, An angel's virtues lay f Too soon did heaven assert the claim. And call its own away. My Anna's worth, my Anna's charms, Must never more return ' What now shall fill theso widow'd arms t Ah me I ray Anna's urn !" >> ' \.-^ ' '1 • L ' ' eed Sir I eurioun^ d an offi- »(in{,' tiu> lias lieen hia hirtb bui upon ul son of T hat he tercourse inps; and I ofaruis^ of Lieut. i:))puinted His after oerica, are of his mi- nt bis ho- lous to the 3 ordinary d married erby; and ie wa* the , the Lord dy of the en in thiir his origin )f the Ma- ) ino4lifica- of bis own aauthoriz- oniiniission .nimciit of resolution n process was efFuct- icnt. It i» |in 1771), as emb^ilmetS tifulaw f^~ EOUTK TO THE SPRINGS. #7 Guy Carlton. He arrived at Quebec in May, and reach- ed Crown Point, June 20ih. General Phillips was sent to Ticonderoga with the British right wing; and the out- posts and the fort were successively abandoned by the Americans The news of the evacuation of this place was a most disheartening piece of intelligence to the country. During his delay, General Schuyler obstructed the channel of Wood Creek, retnoved every thing valuable from the country, and took the si ores from Fort George to Fort Edward ; sending for regular troops, and calling for the militia of the neighbouring states, both which were supplied. General Arnold and Colonel Morgan joined him with a body of riflemen, and General Lincoln with the New-England militia; and he fell back to Sara- toga, to Stillwater, and finally to the islands at the mouth of the Mohawk. Battle op Bbnnington. Being in want of provi- sions. General Burgoyne had despatched Lt. Col. Baum with his Hessians, to seize the public stores at Benning- ton. He was supported by Lt. Col. Brechman, who stopped at Baton Kill. Brig. Gen. Stark with the New- Hampshire troips, joined by Col. Warner, attacked Col. Banm at the Wallotnsack River, where they were en- camped, July I6th, (1777,) and in two hours, forced their works, and completely defeated them. Colonel Warner began the attack on Col. Brechman, wounded him mor- tally, took him prisoner, and put his troops to flight. 226 of the British troops were killed at the battle of Bennington, or rather the battle of Hoosac, as it was fought in that town. 700 soldiers were taken prisoners, and 36 officers. Gen. Gates now received the command of the American troops, which had been greatly re-enforced ; and took a position on Behmis's Heights, a ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, about a quarter of a mile from the ri- ver, and stretching off towards the northwest, which of- fered great advantages for the defence of the road. Gen. Gates' Camp was about half a milo from the road on the loft, and his quarters were in a house which was yet 3 landing when the author visited tho spot. A bj^-i-oad > ■>.,: it > ' . i '' M fm -fii %^ 'mm 78 BATTLE OF SAP.ATOrfA. leads to the place, and the old intrcnchments, and after- wards you may proceed along the hoii,^htd, which were oc- cupied by the American troops. By making u considerable circuit, by a road in some places rodgh, you may ride over the encampment and the scenes ot the two battles, and then come back to the river at Smith's little tavern, 3 miles above this place, or cross over to the Springs. The space between the river and the hill was crossed by a deep intrenchment defended with artillery, and almost impracti- cable. The American Lines, three-quarters of a mile long, were furnished with a breast work of logs, (the hills being almo;^t entirely a forest,) and the left terminated opposite the enemy's right. From the left almost to the centre, the ground is level, and was paily cleared, yet much enciim- l)ered with fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of the centre, had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right. The British Lines, stretched from a hill opposite the American left, in a straight line across the meadow to the Hudson River. The enemy moved forward, and encamp- ed in two lines, about two miles from Gen. Gates ; his left on the river, and his right extending at right angles to it, across the low grounds about six hundred yards, to the lofty heights occupied by his elite, having a creek or gal- ley in his front, mode by a rivulet which issued from a great ravine, formed by the hills, which ran in a direction nearly parallel to the river, until within half a mile of the American camp. The Northern or Champlain canal, and the coach road, now cross the ground occupied by the American right, and soon afterwards that occupied by the British lines. The Battle Ground is on an elevated plain, about two miles above General Gates' camp, and the same dis- tance west from Smith's tavern. It may be taken in the way from the Springs, hot it is better to go first to Smith's for a guide, and to take or prepare for refreshment. From Smith's to the battle ground, the road is quite romantic, along the south side of Cumminskill, with a steep bank on each side for a part of the distance. Here Burgoyne marched up to extend his right, and turn the Americao left. The open ground at th© end is the field of battle. (■; llOl'TE VO THE Sr KINGS. 79 after' re oc- erable e over s, and em, 3 The a deep ipracti- G long, Is being )pposito itre, the enciim- >, left of he rights osite the w to the encamp- ; his left jles to it, Is, to the k or gul- from a direction tie of the Itch road, ^ght, and in, about iame dis- jn in the Smith's It. From Jomantic, bank on lurgoyne ticanleft. The most severe fighting in the first battle, was at a lit- tle knoll, in a field on the south. Battle of Sept. 19th. — In the morning, it was re- ported by Col. Colburn, who was watching the enemy, that they were beginning to ascend the hill towards the Ameri-^ can left. Gen. Gates sent Col. Morgan to oppose them, and the firing began about noon* '1 he action extended, and in three hours was general, and continued without in* terruption till dark. The American troops engaged amounted to 3000 ; the British to 3500. The following account is from General Wilkinson. " This battle was perfectly accidental ; Burgoyne's move- ment being merply to take ground on the heights in front of the great ravine, and on our side, the defences of our camp being not half completed, and re-enforcements daily arriving, it was not General Gates' policy to court an ac- tion. The misconception of the adverse chiefs put them on the defensive, and confined them to the ground they casually occupied at the beginning of the action, and pre- vented a single manoeuvre, during one of the longest, warmest, and most obstinate battles fought in America. Gen. Gates believed that his antagonist intended to attack him, and circumstances appeared to justify the like con- clusion on the part of Burgoyne ; and as the thickness and depth of the intervening wood concealed the position and movements of either army from its adversary, sound cau- tion obliged the respective commanders to guard every as- sailable point; thus the flower of the British army, the grenadiers and light infantry, one thousand five hundred strong, were posted on an eminence to cover its right, and stood by their arms, inactive spectators of the conflict, un- til near sunset ; while Gen. Gates was obliged to keep his right wing on post, to prevent the enemy from forcing that flank, by the plain bordering on the river. Had either of the generals been properly apprised of the dispositions of his antagonist, a serious blow might have he'^ \ struck on our left, or the enemy's right ; but although noining is more common, it is as illiberal as it is unjust, to determine the merits of military operations by events exclusively. It was not without experience that the Romans erected temples to Fortune. Later times might aflbrd motives for edifices, in which Genius or Wisdom would havo no voiarics." m m* ■^H IHni ^^19 M^ f.^V^^Wi*-^! w* ' ■< Jtl^Hf-SaljWl Ml iK^H^Iml w Wmr^ 3wS' 1 i fmwl mmwM m |fiii-yll'v^ ml'«^F vivl Wr-il '- llH^Bm' 'Ew»'''-^ ' '.ItimI An HolLvM K if E" r^f ' i'M t^ ' t'^ 1 ^k ! « BLlB' ' ^ivB ^UiiS * m^BVi m-% I^Ib ' Iwflj?^ ' iSvitt *' ^^M, 1 aiM||^ i BM«k4Kw 1 * "i n ' Wmt •■ ,|l f lir^' ^ ' mi^M m '"Hi It 80 BATTLK OF SARATOGA- // ixi ". r Battle of October ^th. Gene: al Wilkinson gives the following description of this battle : — " The enemy were formed across u. now cultivated field, their grenadiers with several field pie res on the left, bor- dt.'ilng on a wood, and a small ravine formed by the rivu- let before alluded to ; their light infantry on the right, covered by a worm fence at the foot of the hill before mentioned, thickly covered with wood ; their centre com- posed of British and German battalions. Col. Morgan, with his u?v.al sagacity, proposed to make a circuit with his corps by our left, and under covei of the wood to gain the height on the right of the enemy, and from thenco commence his attack, so soon as our fire should be opened against their left ; the plan was the best which could be devised, and no doubt contributed essentially to the prompt and decisive victory we gained." " This proposition was approved by the General, and it was concerted thra time should be allowed the Colonel to make the proposed circuit, and gain his station on the enemy^3 rif^ht before the attack should be made on their left: Poor's brigade was ordered for this service, and the attack was commenced in due season on the flank and front of the British grenadiers, by the New-Hampshiro and New-York troops. True to his purpose, Morgan, at this critical moment, poured down like a torrent from the hill, and attacked the right of the enemy in front and flank. Dearborn, at the moment when the enemy's light infantry were attempting to change front, pressed forward with ardour, and delivered a close fire ; then leaped the fence, shouted, charged, and gallantly forced them to retire in disorder; yet headed by that intrepid soldier the Earl of Balcarras, ihey were immediately rallied, and re-formed behind a fence in rear of their first position ; but being now attacked with great audacity in front and flanks by superior numbers, resistance became vain, and the whole line, commanded by Burgoyne in person, gave way, and made a precipitate and disorderly retreat to his camp, leaving 2 twelve, and 6 six pounders on the field, with the lossof nore than 400 officers and men, killed, wound- ed, and captured, and, among them, the flower of his offi- cers, viz : — Brigadier General Frazer, Major Ackland,. comiiianding the grenadiers, Sir Francis Claik, his first \^/ \' ^ S.lu ri- j8 the 1 field, ft, bor- e rivu- right, before rc com- 'i organ, jit with to gain ihenco opened ould be to the il, and it olonel to n on the on their , and the ;iank and impshiro organ, at from the nd flank. ; infantry rd with |he fence, retire in Earl of k-formed lut being lanks by le whole /ay, and ^s camp, »ld, with [y wound- bis offi- ^cklandr I his fivst i:!'' //...■,' II I n» m i in artillc and n by the liorrot fifteen death, two o ppeecJ my, pa exr'air my eye tliirteej a wour Inquiri comma Major . this pla corps, u the live Qua, stands I is a spo the rive: apj/ie ti canal. oflT, on battle, t ground £ Smith's, roness ] were its were her cers. A her child net Ackl British G * Gener the road s iJuarked by irv-'-.i ROUTE TO THE srHlNGS. 81 aid-dc-camp, Major Williams, commanding officer oftho artillery, Captain Money, deputy qunrtermaster general, and many others.** The ground which hud heon occupied hy the British grenadiers presented a scone of complicated horror and exultation. In the square space of twelve or fifteen yards lay eighteen grenadiers in the agonies of death, and three officers propt up against stumps of trees, two of them mortally wounded, bleeding, and almost speechless. " With the troops I pursued the hard pressed flying ene- my, passing over killed and wounded until 1 heard one exr'aim, *' protect me, Sir, against this boy." Turning my eyes, it was my fortune to arrest the purpose of a lad thirteen or fourteen years old, in the act of taking aim at a wounded officer who lay in the angle of a worm fence. Inquiring his rank, he answered, '* I had the honour to command the grenadiers;" of course, I knew him to bo Major Ackland, who had been brought from the field to this place, on the back of a captain Shrimpton of his own corps, under a heas y fire, and was here deposited, to save the lives of both." Quarters of General Burgoyne. The house now stands by the road side, but the place where it then was is a spot at the foot of the hill, and about 200 yards from the river. The cellar is still to be seen, in a held near an ap| •• ^ .»*" ^ 1. I: ■' L' tit ■■ »( ' "k "• • 7 8tro( T ns a mucl Sara the d feebl( vvatei cal fc inche at the ers of Ihn ping < top, ig rouo^h times niattei similai It is liam J known report years f a Jarge The Mill scienti I)rogrei teres tir in diffei there Marcel springs i*;iy, anc ties. « The pe are ass accomp tries, i Iron, j THE SPRINGS. 85 The Flat Rock Spring is near the upper end of the? street, and in the rear of the Pavilion. The Round Rock Spring is worthy of a visit merely n3 a natural curiosity ; the water, although for a time much celebrated, and indeed the only attraction of which Saratoga could boast, having gone into disrepute, since the discovery of the sources already mentioned. It is a feeble chalybeate with little taste and little effect. The water rises in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of a coni- cal form, with a circular hole in the middle, about five inches in diameter. The rock is about five feet through at the base, and has evidently been produced by the lay- ers of lime deposited by the water. Ihat part of the rock which is most exposed to the drip- ping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the top, is always smooth and even, while other parts arc rough and broken. Fractures made by visiters are some- times found half obliterated bv a recent coat of calcareoos matter formed in this manner. A horizontal rock, of similar formation, extends under ground. It is said that the Round Rock was shown to Sir Wil- liam Johnson by an Indian, before which time it was un- known to white men. The water, according to common report, formerly flowed over the top, but has for many years found its way below, through a crevice produced by a large forest tree which fell and cracked the rock. The Iodine Spring is near the Round Rock. Mineral Springs and Minerals of New-York. A scientific survey of the state of New-York < has been in progress several years, the reports of which are highly in- teresting. Numerous springs of almost all sorts are found in different counties. Besides those mentioned in this book, there are petrifying springs at Watervliet, Chiiteningo^ Marcellus, Governeur, St. Lawrence, Ithaca, &c. Brine springs in Cortlandt county, York, Lenox, Vernon, Mur- ray, and elsewhere in Orleans, Wayne and Oswego coun- ties. Sulphureous and chalybeate are most n- incrous.— The petrified shells, &c. fouikl in many of the rocKy strata, are associated with petrified plants of the same species as accompany them in Europe. Specimens from both coun- tries, if accidentally mixed, could not be discriminated. Iron, lea'l. coj>psr, zinc, pl'imbajo and other mine* ;*;H .%: U ?) St. Law- fence county, is remarkably rich and valuable, and aboundi in a variety of beautiful minerals. Education. This state has made most creditable progress in public education. A small sum is annually paid out of the Nchool fund to common school districts, which have expend- ed an equal amount on schools regularly conducted ; and the system is now frt^neral. The share of the surplus reve- luie has been appopriated to the purchase of district libra- ries; and about 10,000 libraries of 50 volumes each, are now gratuitously open to the children and adults, under the charge of the teachers. The colleges and about 80 acada- nies are under the superintendence of the Regents of the University, and aided with money from the literature fund. Scientific observations are made at the academics, and full reports annually returned. Saratoga Lake. An excursion to this beautiful piece of water, is one of the most agreeable that can be made in nny direction. It is 6| miles distant, in a southeasterly direction, and is frequently visited by parties from Saratoga. The lake extends seven miles in length and is two in breadth. The shores are bold and varied, gently descend- ing with a smooth slope to the margin, or rising in rugged crag's trom the water's eAg^.\ sometimes sofiened and beautified by the hand of cultivation, and sometimes aban- doned to all their native wildness. The Reading Room. Strangers will find newspapers from diflieient parts of the country. A record will also be found at the same place, into which the arrivals and departures of visiters are copied, once a day> from the books of the principal houses. The Battle Ground. The defeat of General Burgoync in the year 1777, took place a few miles east from the Springs. See page 78. Remarks on the Routes. North* Three great routes from the Springs towards the north may be particularized, although they run almost side by side, and all unite on ai riving at Lake Champlain. 1st, The fashionable route, to Caldwell on Lake George. 2d, The road to White- hall. 3d. By stagecoach and canal to Whitehall.* i. ^1. * Tliera also are two stage routes to Montreal, one on each side of Lake Champlain. are lapers \goync the I routes irized, lite on I route, ^lute- in each THE SPRLNGi. 87 The first of these is usually travelled by strangers of taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine scenery of Lake George, and the battle grounds in its vicinity ; and passes near several other spots of high interest for their historical associations. Even if a journey to Mon- treal is intenaed, it can hardly be too urgently pressed upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or two to Lake George on his way, as he will find himself most amply rewarded and can join the great route with facility at Ticonderoga. The traveller should stop at Ticonderoga to see the ruins of the old fortress. If he can visit Lake George, he may take the beautiful scenery, and interesting sites of that attractive region in his way. If he has not time for that, he may land at Ticonderoga, where a steamboat wharf has just been built, and a commodious house fitted up this season, and devote at least one day to a rnmble about that picturesque and celebrated point. The second route is the road to Whitehall, which is furnished with public carriages from the Springs during the warm season, and like the canal passes near some of the interesting places to be mentioned hereafter. From Whitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Cham- plain in the daily steamboats, or by land in the mail coach. East. Travellers wishing to go to any part of the country in this direction, may take their choice of several routes. Lin^ 8 of stagecoaches run to Connecticut River, from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, and Gr'^nville, as well as from Troy and Albany, in various directions — to Hanover, Brattleborough, Greenfield, Northampton, Springfield, Hartford ; and there subdividing into nume- rous ramifications, oifer the means of conveyance to every part of New- England. The most interesting route that can be chosen by a man of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through Vermont to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in New-Hampshire. He may take what road he pleases to Connecticut River; and then proceed to Bath on it.«* eastern shore, pursuing the course of the Lower Am- monoosuc River to the White Mountains. 1 1' \i Vtii m n-- L* If't ' i: 'js;i ^■n sU' t*\l aim Z9 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. This is by far the most delightful, as well us fashiona- ble excursion which can be made from the Springs in any direction, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in the United States, and in numerous sites •'nd objects inti- mately c'»nnected with the history of the country. For Lake George, 27 m. a stagecoach starts daily, after the arrival of the Albany train of cars, with six horses, and passing through Glenn's Falls, arrives by daylight. The beautiful and commodious steamboat Wm. Caldwell, Capt. Larrabee, plies on the lake daily (Sundays excepted.) The lino is complete, rapid and convenient on this roilte to Lake Champlain, as coaches await the boat at the end of the lake, and go on to Ticonderoga. The boat waits 3i hours, which is sufficient time to see Ticonde- roga, dine and return. There the traveller finds a good hotel ; and, after reviewing the interesting ruins and scenery, may go back to Lake George, or pass down Lake Champlain to Canada. The splendid steampacket Burlington, Capt. R. W. Sherman, and the Whitehall, Capt. Lyons, touch daily at the new dock at Ticonderoga Point, which has been con- fetructed for their convenience by Mr. Pell, proprietor of the place. The ruins remain in the same state of careful preservation in which they were kept by the late Alfred H. Pell, Esq. to whose taste and intelligence visiters to this interesting spot will be indebted for much gratification. The fine and extensive garden, enriched by him with some curious exotics, is worthy of attention. There will be found, in luxuriant growth, several plants rarely found -.in so cold a climate: the cork tree, French willow, Euro- pean vines, &c. From the time of the earliest wars between the British colonies and the French in Canada, to that of 1755, the tract over which part of our route lies was the high road of war. It was traversed by many a hostile expedition, in which the splendour and power of European arms mingled with the fierce tactics of savage warriors: the rums of fortresses are still to be traced in several places, and tradition points to many a spot that has been sprin- kled with lilood. During the revolution, also, some of /? ,A :y^--N N. : ..^iMl">,t>*J s. hiona- in any lery in ts inti- j, after horses, lylight. ildwell, epted.) Id rovlte at the he boat !"iconde- , a good in3 and vn Lake R. W. daily at een con- rietor of careful e Alfred rs to this lification. im with lere will ily found |w, Euro- British [755, the ligh road Ipedition, m arms lors: the il places, |en sprin- Bome of I'l I : > t )l i. I nm the impo neighbou The h Wilton, / off eastwi Haifa a rich pli is now di while the spire, anc the moLin French which mo further to Glenn Hudson a descent of which has the curren two Jarg^ sheets. On the plain Cam Cavern the north, is just lar^ is cut witi 25 feet, most inte Last of th About h convoy of their way Nearly and a litth them pasi west, a ra east, the Near th the east sii advanced Fort Edw ., » CI INN S FALLS. 89 the important events in our histoiy took place in this neighbourhood. 7^he Road from Saratoga to Glenn's Falls, 18 miles. Wilton, 7 m. Thirteen miles beyond, tiie road branches off eastward for Sandy Hill. Haifa mile bel'oro reaching the village, the road enters a rich plain, probably once overflown by the river, which is now discovered on the left, dividing it in its course, while the village appears in front, with a handsome chnrcii spire, and a number of neat white houses, all backed by the mountains, which here stretch off towards the north. French Mountain is the most prominent eminence, of which more anon A more distant range is likewise seen further to the right. Glenn's Falls. From the bridge, the falls m the Hudson are in full view. The river here makes a sudden descent of 37 feet, over a rock of dark blue limestone, which has been worn into so many forms as to break up the current in a very singular manner. The projection of two largiB masses of rock divides the water into three sheets. On the north side of the river is a feeder to the Cham- plain Canal. Caverns. The mouths of two caverns are found facing the north, in different places among the rocks. The first is just large enough to permit the passage o^ a man, and is cut with surprising regularity for a distance of about 25 feet. This place is made the scene of son>e of the most interesting chapters of Mr. Cooper's novel of the Last of the Mohicans. About half way between this place and Sandy Hill, a convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, on their way to Lake George. Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mounfain ; and a little to the right of it, French Mountain. Between them passes the road to Lake George. Towards the west, a range of high hills encloses the view, and in the east, the Vermont Mountains make a fine appearance. Near the foot of French Mountain is a small bowse, on the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen. Dieskau's advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's Falls and Fort Edward to Fort William Henry. The valley through h:L*'n ■ -n "il J)0 i.xKi: r.Koiuif.. which we pass is narrow for some distance boyond i and after about half an hour's ri(l(\ a little circular pond is discovered on tho oast side, and close by thf5 road. It ig usually almost concealed with water plants. This was near the place of action between Col. Wil- liams and Gen. Dieskau. The latter had extended his troops across the path, and advanced his wings some dis- tance in front, the left wing occup}in^ the rising groinid on the west side of the road near this place. A small cleared spot may be noticed on the other side, a little beyond the pond, (in 1825 a hut stood upon it,) tliat is sa'd to have been the principal scene of action ; and a singular rock near by is pointed out by tradition as the mark of Col. Williams's grave. The little pond above mentioned was the place where most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably much smaller than formerly. In 1825 the skeleton of a man was dug up from a depth of 1^ feet, near the pond, with a marble pipe, and some silver eyed buttons bearing the royal stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in their sea- son, with the Pond Lily, (Nymphea Alba.) LAKE GEORGE. ^i % Lake George. Coming to the brow of a high hill, tho prospect opens, and the lake appears, enclosed by moun- tains, many of which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. The side of French Mountain is t ear at hand on the east, covered with thick trees to the summit; while the smooth- ness of the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat white buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the scene a decree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly be found in any other spot. Directly at the south end are the remains of Forts George and William Henry. Caldwell* The village of Caldwell is the place at which the visiter will stop to take a view of this charming lake, and from which he will make his excursions across its beautiful waters. The village stands at the south end of the lake, and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the neighbouring sheet of water, and the mountains by which it is almost enclosedv The inn to which strangers i'KV. t\i and potul is ,. It 13 ol. Wil- ded his jme did- f ground A small , a litlle ) tliat, is t; and a n aa the ce where name of 1 smaller was dug a marble al stamp. their sea- hill, the [by moun- [oop blue, the east, smooth- with the 10 the m hardly south end Henry. I place at Icharming ]ns across iouth end \f) view of itains by [strangers f .jHWl ^ Ik y m n 1 1 H *! r- i 'It,. .; ■»'\4! 'i iL^' » ;., S; itWf \. < t. • :J I ».■!»' rll V ■' rnsn taste view mort Statr light to tit' and i La 4. J Ine ^ markt the de by spri botton deer ir to Lak The la Tho place n ^ahbatl The la! ward. This bonnde( places and in great h( a charri weather new an< vation w able; ar is often and tho can dvv( The that of country, them io( slope de T.iK£ ntuuriK. Dl ri'sort ot'ciipicft a spot ppciilinrly fiutvl td ^rntify tlio oyo of taste, U3 it ovcM'looks tin* lake tor ••I'vcral rnilos, and the view is not interrupted by any neighbouring obstacle. A more (leliglufui place can hardly he found in the United States, for tlie temporary residence of one who takes do- light in scenery of this descrijition, and loves to recur to deeds long past, and to exploits great in themselves and important in their results even to the present day. Lake (ieorge i^ 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The water is re- markable for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied by sprmgs from below, as the water is coldest near the bottom. It contains trout, bass, and perch. There arc deer in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which Icada to Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapida. The lake never rises more than two feet. The three best points of view are at Fort George, a place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another at Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake. The last view is taken southward, the other two north- ward. This beautiful basin with its pure crystal water, is bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in some places rising with a bold and haAty ascent from the water, and in others de^jcending with a graceful sweep from a great height to a broad and level margin, furnish it with a charming variety of scenery, which every change of weather, as well as every change of position, presents in new and countless beauties. The intermixture of culti- vation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely agree- able; and ihe undulating surface of the well-tilled farm is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native forest, aud the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no vegetation can dwell. The situation ol the Hotel is delightful, surpassing that of almost every other to be found in this part of the country, and tho apartments are so arranged that half of them look out upon the lake. A green and handsome slope descends about 200 yards to the very margin. 9 1 H ^4 H ■ > '• m i. ■■<■,; i■^, ?"; f^ '* ;^ mm '!•• mm.:' iu:?; i' Of> TLA ISl.AAD. I There is the wharf, at which the steamboat receives and lands her passengers. The discharge of a gun makes fifie echoes among the mountains in a clear night The lake is here about three-quarters of a mile wide, and the range of munntains opposite, which are high and uninterrupted, is quite uncultivated with the exception of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being co- vered with trees almost to the water. On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which is formed of low land for some distance back, Aucceedcd by French Mouniam in the rear On a little point, half covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet above the water, is the site of Fort William Henry ; and about a mile towards the southeast from it, on a con- siderable elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. See page 93. Excursions on thb Lake Boats are kept at the wharf to convey passengers to any part of the neighbour- ing shores and islands. Fine perch, or black bass, (Perca Franklinia,) are caught in abundance almost everywhere j and trout, at the mouth of a small stream near the south end. Fishing rods and tackle may be obtained at the ho- tel ; and a variety of other fish are to be found. Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and is famous for aboundmg in crystals of quartz, which are found in a loose rock by digging a little under the sur- face They are found, however, in equal numbers in several of the other islands ; and it is easy to purchase them. Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats land is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an old hut standing which affords something of a shelter. Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been inhabited and cultivated Beside these, there are many other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and those who are fond of such excursions, would be highly pleased with devoting several days to visit them. 'I he finest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 miles distant. West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence, called Rattlesnakes* CobblCf or Prospect Hill. This, as sent ing O the Os Ontari Gem ed to able rick, take was 9P the bo reachij Lyman cut off nadians which to man iSund I LAKE GEORGE. 93 esand makes wide, gh and :eption ing co- , which ;ceeded 3 point, 25 feet iry ; and a con- re. See it at the }ighbour- s, (/Vra ry where; I he south jit the ho- lake, and which are the 8ur- ndbers in purchase is another )oat3 land an old er. haa been are many ake; and be highly cm. '1 he distant. e:ninence, This, as well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation t?f bears and deer, and much infested with rattlesnakes. The view from the top is very fine. The French Approaches. The village of Caldwell is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege of Fort William Henry, the ground which it now occu- pies WAP crossed by the trenches and batteries with which Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capitulation of that little fortress. The place where he landed with his army is the little cove juKt behind the new stone building, a few steps north of the hotel. He erected his battery near the shore, and ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front of the hotel. The remains may siill be traced, as well as the marks of a &mall mortar battery, near the bars of a fence leading to a bmall house. Another line runs to the bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was also a battery ; and another boriiers the swamp to the right, and another turns southward along the high ground. Behind this, m a pine wood, are the graves of about 1000 French soldiers, who died in the fort. Battle op Lake George In 1755, the year after the commencement of the French War^ 3000 men were sent out from France to Quebec, for the purpose of tak- ing Oswego Fort. This was situated at the mouth of the Oswego or Onundago River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario General Johnson, (afterwards Sir William,) also march- ed to the south end of Lake George with a consider- able number of mea, joined by the famous Capt. Hend- rick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, intending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gon. Dieskau was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, principally from the body of French troops mentioned at Quebec. On reaching South Buy, and learning the situation of Fort Lyman (now Fort Elvvard,) he wished to attack it and cutoff the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and Ca- nadians, however, were in dr:»ad of the cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, and he was obliged to march against Johnson. Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought John- iv!^ 94 BATTLK OF LAKE GEORGE. Jmlm m^H MM»'B Mflrolm '^Htfi i i son intclHgenco that Dieskau was coming; who s»;ntl200 men out in the morning, under the command of Col. Ephraim Williams. The enemy were in ambush at Rocky Brook, drawn up in a semicircle, into which the English entered before they knew it. A heavy fire from three sides first showed the position of their enemies. The En- glish stood their ground valiantly ; but Cols. Williams and Hendrick being both shot down, together with many others, they were obliged to begin their retreat,wliich was conduct- ed by Col. Whiting with the greatest coolness and success. The centre of the English army was posted on the hill where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the French were discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted at the sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some mistaken idea of the strength of their position, and gave them time to recover from their panic. The ground on both sides of the English camp was marshy and covered with trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians out on the right flank and the Canadians on the left to surround them. Col. Pomeroy, however, soon put the former to flight with a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops in front, and made them fire by platoons, with very little effect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops,) was slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He directed the defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's artillery ; when the French turned upon the English right, which consisted of Ruggles's, Pomeroy's and Tittlecomb's regiments, and extended from the road to where Fort William Henry was afterwards built. Here they fought an hour, but the English and Indians charging them, they took to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau him- self was found leaning against a stump wounded — a sol- dier approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, io take ouL his watch, which he intended to offer to him, and sup- posing he was drawing a pistol, shot him through the thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a blanket, and it is said deterred .Johnson from ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. Gen. Lyman urged to follow up their victory ; but that was probably a sufficient reason for its being refused by a superior officer, who looked upon his great talents with jealot derive peculi Gen. made povert even t The 96 wo 1000- were a der of ino the by Capi York t French Gen. delayed roga am But the moR veller h tory of 1 shed h( The In 1757 in Amei Louisbi the Frci calm, h On the hian's the wesi and the Monroe relief fj Vvard largest out wit protect! He MASSACRE AT roRT WILLIAM HKRRY. 00 jealousy { rtml) in spite of the advjintagp the country had derived from his serviros, at a lime when they where peculiiirly valuable, did not even mention the name of Gpn. Lyman in his account of the battle! — Johnson was made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few years in poverty and disappointment, and died without receiving even the notice of the British government. The F^nglish are said to have lost only 216 in killed and 96 woundt'd. Gen. Diesknu es * 100 RUINS or THE PORT. was dofpatod in 1758, are the only part of the fortification which was ev««r the scene of a hattle. They commenced on tlie east sitlo, at a haltery of heavy cannon on the i«hore, tthoiit a (inaner of a mile south of the ferry. The rennains of the breast work can yet be seen. The lines wrre drawn in a zig-zag; first stretching off to the right, along the side of mar^ihy ground, to a cluster of bushes, where was a bat- tery ; atid then to the left to the verge of a wood, where was another. Their course may be distinctly traced in this manner, across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to the brow of a steep bank looking towards the outlet of Lake George. The woods which now so much interrupt the Bight, have grown since the evacuation of the fortress, after the revolutionary war. There is a fine spring of water near the western part of the French lines, where a bloody engagement occurred between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies of men have been dug up hereabouts within a few years, and shot were formerly very freqnen:ly found in old timber Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this place. It was occupied by Gen. Burg«>yne's British line, which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticon- deroga, on the 2(1 of June, 1777 ; and on the following morning, while they were approacliing through the woods unsuspicious and undiscovered, one of their soldiers was observed and fired upon from a salient angle of tiie lines. This alarmed the British, who fired; and the Americans were so muc^h excited that they returned three volleys, without orders from their officers. Strange as it may seem not a man was killed on either side, and the enemy retired without attempting any thing further there, for they succeeded in capluri.ig the fortress in a few days, by gaining the top of Mount Defiance with their cannon. In proceeding from the French lines south towards the fortress, by a gentle descent, before arriving there, at the distance of about 120 yards, you pass an old intrench- ment ; and about 150 yards further bring you to the edge of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where there was a row of palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to the walled Bide of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep in some places, and therefore impassable except where it has been partly filled up. Its breadth is g^enerally about 8 or 9 nans. VOIURfcSS OF rXCONDLKO(;A. 101 yards, and the wall of the fortress ca the othei side in some yilaces 20 or 25 feet high The fortress is of nn angular form, and emhraces a largo tract >f ground, being divided into parts by deep ditches, which were defended by cannon and musketry, and added very much to the security of th.^ /i i m Y.aKK CHAMI'LAK^. Mount Independence is a hill of comparatively sm.-iil ^elevation cast of Mount Detiam-e, and rieparatcd fi'om it ()y the lake, which has here reduced its size to that of a «mall river. On a bank, just above the water, are the re- mains of a zig-zag battery for about 40 or 50 guns, running across a little corn field behind a liouse, and making five or six angles. The Horse Shoe Battery is traceable on an elevation about a quarter of a miie in the renr. A bridge once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, tlie buttresses of whicli arc retnuining, to the great annoyatxe of the navigat(jrs of the lake ; the steamboat passes to the south of them. On the west shore, (near the stone store house,) Arnold, when pursued by the British, caused his •flotilla to he run on shore. These hn'.ks remain almost as f!ound as when first stranded. A forty-two pounder is said to have ranged from the Horse Shoe over this channel, (now marked by a buoy,) and the fortress. After the Revolutionary war. about 500 cannon wero lying about the fortress, lines, &c. many of them as left by the English, with their trunnions knocked oflT. A twen- ty-four pounder was taken to the forge at Fair-Haven, some few years ago, and discharged by the heat, after lying loaded for above twenty years, and r considerable time at the bottom of the lake. The mountainous region on the west side of the lake abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed every season. The E*assage from Ticonderoga down Lake Champlain is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way to Canada, with fine natural scenes. Five Mile Point. The lake is narrow at this place, which is remarkable as thr* landing place of Gen. Bur- goyne's expedition, as mentioned on p. 100. Mountains appear in the west and northwest, with occasional iiiter- vals all the way up to Crown Point; while in the north, is a lofty and imposing range, with two or three peaks al- most bald from the height of their elevation. Summits multiply as ve proceed, and distant mountains urise also in the northeast ; while Mount Defiance and other emi- nences towards the south bound the view in that direc- tion. There are scattering farms and houses on both shores. ^ ¥. i ■'■«*? Mi tid^ i*» !X-; I- i< w-"!!.*; &. "1.. . •' -in ■r r. w Qv ^^'-^ KOUTE TO CA.S'ADA. 105 The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments- of blue limestone rock with organic remains. The immediate &hore^ are generally low all the way tc Crown Point, where the lake suddenly tarn.s to the west at a right angk?^ and at the distance of a mile as suddenly to the north again. A low stretch of land covered with a young forest on t\ie left, conceals the approach to this an- cient fortress, v'hich, for position, as wv.W as appearance and history, may be called the twin sister of Ticonderoga.. Chimn ey Point, where the steamboat often receives and lands passengers, is on the north side of the lake, with w large public house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the- place to stop if ihe traveller intends tf> visit Crown Point, which is opposite, across a ferry 3-4 of a mile. The Fortress op Crown Point, — There are several old works thrown up along the shore, with little bays be- tween them. The easternmost one is called the Grena- diers' Battery, the middle one is the original old French fort of 1731, and now encloses a garden ; and that further west is an outvvoi*k to a bastion of the fortress. The ground on which the old fortifications stand, is owned by Major.!. Churchill of the U.S. Army. The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back fron» the shore, and appear^ much like Ticonderoga from a distance, showing the walls and chimneys of the old barracks, and walls of earth surrcunding them. In regard to its plan, however, it is materially different. The for- tress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form of a pentagon, with bastions a: the angles,, and a strong re- doubt at the distance of 250 or 300 yards in advance of each of them. The fortrer^s is surrounded by a ditch, walled in with stone, except where it has been blasted into the solid rock of blue limestone, (as is the case in many parts, from live to twenty-five feet,) and even inta quartz rock which underlays it. Univalve shells are found in the limestone rock, frequently four inches in di- ameter. The walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and there is a convenient path running entirely round upon the top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and south sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, some fine- views are enjoyed in making the circuit, which is not far .short of half a mile. Y 1 I*.' ■ .1. 'I tr-; 'jr f. - -I ■it.. My^-' ' ■ 106 FORTRESS OF CROWN POINT. Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks ; and close by, the remains of a covered or a subterraneous way to the liike shore. On entering the fortress, the stranger finds h'mselfina level, spacious area, bounded on the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings of stone two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the right. This parade is about .500 feet in length. The place was sur- prised by Col. Warner in 1775. The view from tliP walls towards the north is very fine : looking down the lake, wb h widens at the distance of two or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right, and two other points projecting beyond the distant peak, called CamcVs Hump. A range of mountains on the west- ern shore, beginning at the distance of 18 miles, including Bald Peak, gradually approach till they form a near and bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with cleared farms and houses, and then stretching away to the south, terminate in the mountain behind. This elevation, although it seems almost as well calculated to command Crown Point as Mount Defiance does Ticonderoga, is not less than four miles distant. Every thing a!)out this old fortress bears the marks of ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers in the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the shingled roof v/hich remains serves to cover a little hay mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the entrances and other parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. The ground around it is much covered with fragments of blasted rocks, and particularly at the south, with the ruins of old buildings The trees which are seen, have grown since the evacuation of the place : and on one of the angles is an inscription of the date of the fortress, 1756, when it was constructed on a greatly enlarged plan, by Gen. Am- herst, at an expense of two millions of pounds sterling. In 1777, the British had a fleet on Lake Champlain, composed of the following vessels : ship Inflexible, Capt. Pringle, carrying 18 twelve pounders ; two schooners, one with 14 the other with 12 six pounders ; a flat-bottomed radeau with six twenty-fours and six twelves ; and 20 small craft, each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four pounders, and several long boats, beside boats for baggage, >i)tores, vfcc. ROUTi: TO CANADA. 107 The Americans had only two brigs, one corvette, odp sloop, three galleys, and eight gondolas, the largpst vessel carrying only 12 six and four poimdors. These were under the command of Arnold, who drew them up betweei> the island of Valincourt and the western shore, where they were attacked. They fought four hours, and the British at last retreated ; but while making his way to- wards Crown Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all the squadron (led up the lake, passing this place which was evacuated. Arnold remained fighting as long as pos- sible, and did not leave his vessel until she had taken fire. Proceeding down the lake, the breadth of it soon in- cretises, and at the two islands on the right it is about li- miles acros*. A little further is Fut-in-Bay, on the eastern shore, with an island of the same name. Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is- low in the middle, and contains several trees, which look not unlike masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a mist}' day, in the Revolutionary or French war, and fired upon by a vessel, whence its name. At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth of several m^les, and a new scene is presented to view. On. the west side is a rounded island covered with pine trees, like much of the shore previously seen, and separated from the main land only by a narrow rent of about fifteen feet. Apparently ju?it v.'iihin this aperture is a rude arch of rock, like the remains of an ancient bridi^e. B TRLiNGTO'N, 75 miles from Whitehall, This is the- largest town on Lake Champlain, and is situnt.ed in aj comn anding as well as a delightful position. The lake suddenly widens as you approach it from the south, and m fine semicircular bay puts up to it from il^ east, sur^ rounded by a crescent of high ground, under the shelter of which the town is situated. The University of Vermont is 330 feet above the lake. The view from the top »)f the^ hills is truly admirable ; embracing in the foreground the elegant gardens of some of the wealthier inhabitants, the College, Vv-ith the streets of Burlington below, the curv- ing form of the bay, the whole breadth of the lake, her© tea miles across, and a noble ehaiu of di.slant blue m«uu- 10« •i;'^ // 103 PLAlTsBURGtt. H tains on the opposite side. The road to Windsor by the Gulf is very good and interesting-. A steamboat goes to Phittsburgh and returns daily. Port Kent, 10 miles, is a small village on the western shore, sixteen miles from T3urlineton. It serves as a port to the iron works established a little back in the country, where there is a vast quantity of ore. The Walled Rocks , and the Falls of the An Sable > These are natural curiosities of a superior kind, although, from their secluded situation, they have not yet attracted general attention. To visit them, the traveller may land at Port Kent, take a carriage in waiting to Keeseville, 4 m. a village where an active business is carried on in lumber anu iron. There are saw-mills at a fall in the river. A guide will be desirable. First, 1| m. northeast, passing through a fine wood near the road, you reach the brow of a rock, and have a view of Watson's Falls. This is a charming object. A letter to the editor of the '• Northern Traveller" describes it as offering a " striking resemblance to a magnificent chandelier of three tiers, 60 feet high, the drops of water sparkling like diamonds in inotion, and prismatic colours, like those of the rainbow, floating over the whole." You next pass a cluster of iron works, called Bitming- ham, amidst a series of waterfalls ; and then, crossing the stream, and proceeding some distance through the woods, alight and walk to the Walled Rocks. These are preci- pices of stratified rocks, about 100 feet high, overhanging the stream, two of which are so uniform, and separated so precisely by deep and narrow channels cut down almost to the water's level, that they seem ready to fall every in- stant. When viewed directly endwise, they appear like tail chimneys, only a few feel in width ; while, at the same lime, they lean very perceptibly beyond their narrow bases. Between them is a staircase, built by some of tha lovers of nature in the neighbouring village of Keeseville, for the accommodation of visiters. By this you may de- scend to the bottom : and there the scene is highly impres- sive and peculiar, while the spectator sees with dread, that the point of view on the summit is on a thin project- ing shelf of rock. Plattsburgh, eight miles. This is a town of consi* l*oi ' the ;9 to stern port intry, tablet ough, •acted land eville, on in in the ihraat, vM the Falls. of the triking ers, 60 ond3 in linbow, irming* ing the woods, preci- langing •ated so [most to very in* lear like lie same narrow |e of tiiG iseville, |may de- impres- dread, Iproject- If consi* I: n :vv J-- . 5;.' '■■ • i f^kM '*'. * * 'Z 91*1 wmm I I. ar vvj ri hot nnc Hot rou sum 127; P. (lurii T, static Cana read^ tion c river a nurr nough squad with tal Isl fought vesse minute Capt. hull, a battle part of McI Head sist3 of lature Cha, country country appear? UOtTE TO CANADA. ion ^[icrable importance, situated on the banks of the Saranac, find just behind the high and steep bank of the lake, on which is a line of forts erected for the defence of the place. The town commands a fine view. The St. Lawrence and Cluimplain railroad route has been sin-veyed from Plattsburgh to Ogdonsburgh, 120 m. and the oxpenst? estimated at about one and a half mil- lions, crossing Chateaugay river cast of Malone. Another route has been sin*veyod up the north bank of Au Sable river across the highlands and down Racket river. The summit of the former near the Chateaugay is 1733 feet tibove tide ; and that of the latter, on the highlands, only 1277. The lake here is 87, and at Whitehall 93. Plattsburgh was the scene of a land and naval battle during the late war with Great Britain. The Battle of Plnttshurgh, When Gen. Macomb vv^as stationed at Plattsburgh, Sir George Prevost came from. Canada with an army, and occupying the village, stood ready to attack the American troops, who were in posi- tion on the elevated ground, between the east bank of the river Saranac and the precipitous shore of the lake, where a number of forts, &jc. are still to be seen. Com. McDo* nough was at that time on the lake with the American squadron ; and hearing of the approach of Capt. Downie with the British ships, extended his line between Hospi- tal Island and Cumberland Head, where he received and fought the enemy with such success as to capture all his vessels. The action continued two hours and twenty minutes, and was performed in full sight of the armies. Capt. Downie's ship, the Confiance, had 105 shot in her hull, and the Saratoga 59, and was twice on fire. This battle caused the retreat of Prevost, and relieved that part of the country from being overrun. McDonough's Farm lies on that part of Cumberland Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, and con- sists of 200 acres. It was presented tohmi by the Legis- lature of Vermont, in gratitude for his victory. Chazy, 15 miles, — Rouse's Point, 12 miles. The country hereabouts is very uninteresting: for the level country has begun which extends far into Canada. The appearance of the banks is quite uniform ; they being low, V P^A:' * v^■^ 4^: t 4^1 ..■fifiikii ■ m 110 ST. JOHN '3. V7V 1ni^'/ifn /Of) /. . U'lulie •• ^/ ,..',. I I./3 m ^H^I^B^^f ^^^^^^Hj BirSI ns i <4i^ 1- ^^1-. same floor, facing! of a si Fence might over t[ by a SI except Roehel The I foreiirr languaj have nl ROUTE TO CANADA. Ill tained possession of 17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, with halls, bombs, &.c. '^f^. ■f\i ''•■'. .' [ill'-. „ . 114 8T. JOHNS. i i! ; r t^ ii on above them. In returning, the boats sometimes pass between two rocks, near the rapids, that on the east be- ing under water. Here the river is much agitated, and sometimes throws the water on deck, but without any danger. A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple, belongs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is the RecoUet Church; then the French Parish Church, near which is seen the Great Cathedral. The English Episcopal church has a tall pyramidal spire ; and that •which rises farther to the right, and near the shore, is the church of Bon-secours From some places may be seen the lop of Nelson's monument, with several other remark- able objects, particularly the barracks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old city wall. MOxNTREAL. The landing place is unpleasant, and the stranger may be struck with the narrowness of the streets, the lowness, and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of stone or plas- tered to resemble it: but all '^iis is in conformity with the iashion of the country ; and Montreal contains some fine buildings, and other objects worthy of notice, together v/ith a vicinity which in the warm season of the year is truly agreeable. Those who remain but a short time in this city, may easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of cu- riosity ; and are recommended to take a walk through the two principal streets, and to notice the following build- ings and })laces. At the north end of St. Taul's-street are the barracks. Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French Church of Bon-seoours, which, like the other Canadian religious buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those in Franof. The roofs are, however, generally covered with tin. This is near the northern limit of Montreal; beyond which begins the Quebec suburb. Masonic Hall, on the the eastern side of the street. Theatre, adjoining the Masonic Hall. Market Place and Nelson^s Monument. Then fol- lows a double row of shops. On the east side are seve* ral, wl These, ries, if The long st( from J wings : One of chapel, apart mc make a There i and tha square i This worthy institutii influence ed by t on a m( supporte ed by a foster ig have bee grading ing the The in North Place 6 partly c( 13th, 14 style the of ornan as that o It is wide, ers, eac at each towers, five pub and four 10,000 MONTREAL 115 ral, which show articles of Indian manufacture for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the nunne- ries, if it is intended to visit them. The Hotel Dieu, or Convent of Black Nuns, is a long stone building, on the west side of St. Paul's-street from John Baptist to St. Joseph' s-street. It has three wings: one on St. Joseph's-street being the hospital. One of the doors on St. Paul's-street leads into the public chapel, and another into the nunnery, that is, the few apartments which are accessible to visiters. The nuns make a vow on taking the veil, never to leave the walls. There is a large garden in the rear. This convent, and that of the congregational nuns occupy the whole square extending to Notre Dame-street. This building, and others like it in Canada, are un- worthy of a traveller's attention, except as specimens of institutions which have exerted a powerful and unfriendly influence on all nations who have tolerated them. Found- ed by the superstition which they perpetuate, framed on a model borrowed from the heathenism of Egypt, supported by fanaticism, tolerated by ignorance, govern- ed by a power as distant as Rome, and used by it to foster ignorance, and to sustain its authority, convents have been, and probably always will be, engines for de- grading the mind, corrupting the manners, and enslav- ing the people. The New Cathedral is probably the largest church in North America, except Mexico. This edifice is on the Place dj'Armes. It was commenced in 1825, and is partly copied from some of the European models of the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. It is of the plainest style that can bear the name of Gothic : an exuberance of ornament being inconsistent with a climate so severe as that of Canada. It is 255 feet long from west to east, and 134 feet wide. It was designed to have six quadrangular tow- ers, each 200 feet high: three on each flank, and two at each end. The curtain, or space between the front towers, is 73 feet by 119, and has parapets. There are five public entrances and three private to the first floor, and four to the galleries. The building can contain 10,000 persons, which number may rssemble and dis- n I .4 I. ♦ I- V"> -' ■ 116- THE COLLEGZ. If tl' t *^ I ' perse in a few minutes. The eastern vrindow over tBcr high altar is 32 by 64 feet, and is to be divided by shafts and mullions for stained glass. The ceiling is 80 feet high, groined and partly supported by a double range of grouped columns, intersected by rails. There are seven altars for the nuns. The floor rises gradually from the entrance to the high altar. The house is to be warmed by heated air from stoves under the floor. The exterior is faced with hewn stone from the mountain. Gray Nitns^ Convent, a large stone building, about 410 feet in length, is in the south eastern part of the city. These nuns have a large number of orphans under their charge, and are not forbidden to go out, so that they may be seen in the streets dressed in gray hooded cloaks. The Seminary (La Seminaire) is an antique build- ing, and contains a library of about 6,00Q volumes. The College is a large building of stone, three sto- ries high, erected in 1819 out of the funds of the Semi- nary. It has a front of about 150 feet, with wings projecting in front and rear, which make the whole length about 220 feet. It has a spacious yard on the south side, for a play ground, succeeded by a fine gar- den. In order to guard against fire, large iron doors are hung in the passages, in such a manner that by shutting them the vhole building may be divided into three parts, each fire proof. It contains aA)out 300 students, who are divided into eight classes, to each of which is devoted a year, with the exception of the two last, which occupy but six months apiece, so that the whole course of instruction is finished in seven years. Many of the pupils, however, leave the institution before completing the course. The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the building is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, the former of which are hung with maps and pictures of saints, and the latter supplied with crosses and fonts. The price of instruction is about eighty dollars per yv'^ar, and some of the pupils have allowances made them^ paicicularly those designed for the church, who assist ir^ instruction by day, and- study by night. There is a prepay- MONTREAL. 117 »tory school connected with the college. One of the in- •structers always oversees the boys in their recreations. Returning to the square, and entering another princi- pal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass nume- rous respectable and some elegant dwellings, leaving the Parish Church and the new Cathedral on the east. The Wesleyan Chapel, the American Congregational, and the English Episcopal Churches are in this part of the town. The Parade, a handsome piece of ground, with a walk, where the troops are drilled every morning, gene- rally at 10 o'clock. Island of St. Helen, or OranVs Island. This is held by the British government, for a military position and depot. It is principally covered with trees ; but has a beautiful gardtii behind the quarters of the officers ; and a fine road winding round from the landing place, on the south end, (where are some remains of old works, and a new battery,) to a rocky eminence over the arsenal, which is opposite the northern quarter of the town. This rock is about eleven feet higher than the most elevated parts of the city; and the view from it is handsome, with a wild ravine just below. 1 he arsenal and storehouses form three buildings, with a narrow yard between them, about 125 feet in length. The batteries range on the river and town, and are fur- nished with neat barracks, a magazine, &c. The Mountain of Moritreal offers an extensive and delightful view, and should by no means be forgotten by those who have an opportunity to undertake the excur- sion. It is better calculated to afford an idea of the country, as well as to delight the eye, than any other point to which an excursion can be made. Yet it is recommended, if the traveller stays long enough, to take a ride or two in differ- ent directions, after having visited this favourite spot. There are different ways of reaching the summit of the mountain ; on foot, by an intricate route from the southern part of the city ; on horseback, or in a carriage, to the ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There is also a foot path up the north end. The country spread out to view on arriving at this com- ioaanding height, is a plain of such vast extent a* to aj»- WW '■■••* ■'■■■''Vl Mi A ■ *^ Ir. f mmM\ t . i-y: :'>'■l■ 1 it!-? • li'-^V,-'?] in**.- Is- f*fi 'i -kM i 118 MONTREAL MOUNTAIN. pear in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it stretch- es much farther than would bn imagined; for all the way to Quebec, the river's banks present the same appearanctt. The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun- tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, which soon give place below to a smooth descent, declining to the base, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the eleva- tion of which stands M'Tavish's house. A beautiful display of cultivated fields succeeds on the level, divided by high palings, and scattered with a few houses. Below a moderate descent, which appears like an old bank of the river, gardens and dwellings begin to increase ; and behind a succeeding one, of a similar description are •uburbs of thR city. Eastf on the horizon is Boucherville Mountain ; and over it is seen more indistinctly, Beloeil Mountain. The plain country between the Sorel and St. Lawrence is divided into innumerable fields, with scattering houses. In the same direction is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's Island ; and in a direction with the south end of it, the steeple of Bon-aecour church. North of this are the Que- bec suburbs, beginning near the barracks ; the Waterworks, and Baths. Nearer, are seen St. Louis and St. Lawrence suburbs. S. S. East, on the opposite shore. La Traiiie; and nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not distin- guishable. In a range with them, are Nuns' Island, and Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. The river is 3 J miles wide. The suburbs on the south side of the city, are St. Antoine, Ricolet, St. Anne's, and St. Joseph'^. North. Bout de I'Isle, the extremity of Montreal Island, Pointe aux Trembles, and the village of Bouclier- ville ; opposite which is Longueil, and further down, Va- rennes, with a two steepled church. JV. East, the view is boundless, with a succession of cultivated fields, which in the distance become quite un- distinguishable. The same appearance, it will hereafter be seen, extends along the river's banks quite to Quebec. Road round the Mountain. The road near the north end of the mountain is ornamented with many beautiful seats, and there are also some extensive manufactories. Behind it is a fine extent of cultivated ground. stretch- Lhe way jarancn. } moun- h trees, ieclining e eleva- aeautiiul , divided Below ik of the se ; and tion are Eiin ; and in. The ^rence is r houses. Grant's )f it, the the Que- terworks, L.awrence iiie; and ot distin- and, and ver is 3J the city, seph's'. Vlonlreal Boucher- own, Va- ePf>ion of quite un- hereafter ) Quebec, the north beautil'ul factories. Routes in Canada. 1V!> OTthkr Excursions. To Lachine, 9 mileSjOrSleagues^ The river road is the plcasantest ; giving a view of the Hapids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, the I idian village of Caughnawaga opposite, and crossing the Lachine Cav^K To Pointt aux Trembles and Bout de VIsle. The southern road to the Mountain, which crosses it ut the less elevated part of the ridge, near the middle, leads through St. .Joseph's suburbs, and afterward passes a number of fine country seats. The most remarkable arc those of Mr. M'Gillivray, and the late Mr. Gregor}-, members of the old North West Company, which was converted into the Hudson^s Bay Company. It engrossed the Indian trade for a vast distance up the lakes, and en- tiched many individuals. The Priests^ Farm lies westo .h^ city near the base of the mountain ; and is a large tract ' land, with an old building in the ancient Europea styie, preserving many of the features of feudal days, with its projecting square towers, small windows, pointed t "^ofs, and weather-beaten walls. The barns connected with it are very spacious, and seem capable of contairi .g a large part of the pro- ducts of the farm. The only wonder seems to be what a few old men can do with such vast stores, as well as with their receipts from various other quarters. The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in whicW the monks of Ricolet, as Seigneurs, have the right of a tax on every farm, on every purchase and sale of real estate, and many other privileges, vested in them by the king of France on the first settlement of the place. Cir- cumstances have conspired to reduce and destroy many of these privileges, so that the annual income of the priests, from this rich and valuable Seigneurie, though large, is very trivial, in comparison with its extent and fertility. Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Longueil; but Major Brown, not being able to land above the city as was intended, the former was taken prisoner by Gov. Carlton, nfter a sharp engagement, loaded with irons, and sent to England. Col. Warner afterwards erected batteries on the shore at Longueil, by which he drove back the go- vernor when he attempted to land on his way to relieve St. John's. 11* .fr I ' ill jt i , it' *•' ^v'OfiHT 1 J20 RIVER ST. LAWnEfiCK. Hi t i ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. Road to Quebec. Notwithstanding the common prejudices against tra- velling by land in Canada, which are entertained by many persons not acquainted with the country, it is re* commended to those who may find it convenient, to make arrangements for performing a part of the journey in i\m manner, either going or returning. The country is indeed a dead level, but it is entirely re- duced to cultivation, thickly populated, and with good roads. The way lies along the very margin of the Si. Lawrence, passing an almost uninterrupted succession of dwellings, and supplied with many comfortable and some good inns. Steamboat to Qi^ebec. Leaving Montreal in the steamboat, you pass under the fort on St. Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas of the city being seen nearly in the following order beginning at the south end; Gray Nuns', Ricolet Church, Black Nuns', then the Old Cathedral, Episcopal Church, Nelson's Mon- ument, Bon-secour Church. Near the last, on the shore, are the Barrnrks, Water works, and Baths, the begin- ^ng of the Quebec suburbs, the residences of Judge Reed and Mr. M.ilson, with terraced gardens towards the river, &c. A little below is Malson's Brewei7, and Sir John Johnson's residence. The Rapids or St. Mary are between the island and these last mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity that steamboats are sametime» obliged to be drawn up by cattle. Long2ieil, just he\ow St. Hoien's. Longuc Pointe, 6 miles (2 leagues) from Montreal. Vercheres, on the east side. Varennes has a church with a double spire. Point aux Trembles^ 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here is a nunnery, in which is a school for girls. Bout de VIsle. Here is no village, but only a fen-y. Confrecfsvr, on the east. Hepentignijf a pretty village. :c. nst tra- ined by it 18 re- to make y in this tirely re- ith good ■ the St. 3s»ion of md some inder ibe las of the [inning at ck Nuns', jn'sMon- he shore, ne begin- ge Reed the river, Sir J ohn and »nd rapitlity wn up by .^' \\'\ treah Here is a It only a ? ' . * .' U '♦.^ m.. lu-> hi V • ■.I ^) . tl i1 M i II t=^T LAWRIK.Vir;,; tmiu J/O. \'T/tK a to qt 'F.ilIU region p and fert narrow s river's b to such I crops, a move, in scape. Navig Steam river, foi expediti( ance to ( employe( fitted to freiglit, principal deal of then shij great nui shelter tl singuhir i fleet of 8 estiniatec The F, DS.7'/iroo;i .!•, ROUTI: To Ql/F.nEC. 121 At this placo it U rocommentled to the traveller by lanti, to mak«» a deviation from iho ilin^ct rond uUmg the river, \t he finds it convenient, tostee the delightful country between it nnd the town of Assomption. There is a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses and trees. Ileturn so as to strike the road near St. Sulpiie. St, Sulpice, 24 miles (8 leagues) from Montreal. La Moraye. Berthier. Machiche is a pretty town, at the month of the RivierJ? du Loup. Many French customs are still preserved by the unmixed inhabitants of the St. Lawrence, some of which are agreea-* ble and interesting. There is very little variety to be discovered in the na- tural surface of the ground, but the jouniey throuj^h this region presents almost an unvarying scene of cultivation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, there is a narrow strip of com or potatoes between the road and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields which stretch off to such a distance on the other band ; and the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and cliimps (?f trees, re- move, in u good degree, the natural sumcne&s of the land- scape. Navigation and Trade of the St. Lawrence, &c/ Steamboats are of the utmost importance on this great river, for they contribute extremely to the convenience and expedition of travelling, and render most valuable assist- ance to commerce. Thore are many steamboats constantly employed between Montreal and Quebec, most of them fitted to accommodate passengers, as well as to carry freight, and all provided with powerful engines. Ther principal article of export frum Canada is lumber, a greuS deal of which is carried to Quebec in immense rafts, and then shipped for England. These rafts have usually a great number of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with huts to shelter the men from the weather, so that they have a very singular appearance, and at a little distance look like a fleet of sail boats. The population of Lower Canada i>> estimated at about 200,000. The French Canadiai)s uie umiaWo, cheerful; ; 1 gny^ ■ >i •I, it ll' I • \m&J >.^^ sent?.. and theii* backwardness in improvements is attributal)lft to the system under which they live. They are g^enerally brought up in great ignorance, and they are taught to dis" like and avoid not only the Protestant principles, but Pro* testants themselves. In New-England, as is well known, the law provides for the instruction of evefy child, without exception : and every child is actually instructed. Books iand newspapers, however, lose their effect as well as their value among these people. Among those regions wb;jro English {i,nd Scotch have settled, instruction is gaining ground; and in Montreal, the public schools are rising in importance : but it is to be feared that the Romish priests will long continue to oppose the extension of real know* ledge, and that while they retain their influence, the cha- racter of the people will remain depressed. The " Proceditrc^'' of Canada is founded on the edict of Louis 14th, of 16G7, and is the basis of the Civil Code. There were no lawyers before the Conquest in 1759, when they were created? and martial law pre- vailed from that time till 1774. The trial by Jury was introduced in 1785 ; and the Constitutional Charter in 1791. The houses are generally of one story, and are built of wood or stone, according to the nature of the country. Some of them are formed of squared timbers, and even of round logs ; but the latter are usually employed for the itonstraction of barns only> which are often covered with thaich. The houses and barns are frequently compos-* ?-d of several small buildings, erected at different pe- riods, according to the capacity or necessities of the pro- prietors. William Henry, or Sorel, 45 mileSi, or 15 Itagues from Monti ^al " This town, though quite small, is one of the principal places between the two capitals. It is on the south side cf the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Sorel, ot Richelieu, in a very sandy situation; and contains no- thing worthy of notice, except a little old church, a palisadued fort, and a neat square^ at the distance of a shorii; houses, The U gardens The a mile i barracki and reti On tl batteriei and floa with th to escBfi treal. j night; t ricani*. Bert ibut out ( of the si is a ferry ter, the i 'ipon th£ pears lik miles. Point ern shon the lake, following Oppos Rivers, a French founded Thrk is the lar 96 miles streets a; narrow ; one or tw being pri those of and seve ttlil; liable t» enerally t to dis* but Pro* known, without Books as their IS whijro J, dining rising in h priests ,1 know* the cha-" :he edict he Civil iquest in law pre- ury was larter in I built of country, ind even d for the red with compos* rent pe- the pro- i principal )uth side sorel, ot ains no* harch, a ance oC P.3UTE TO QUKBJEC. 123 shorts walk, rounded with several pretty white a snort waiK, sar/ounded witn sev< houses, a church, &c. a little in the New-England style. The fences are generally low, and afford the sight of gardens. The Government House stands about three quarters of a mile beyond the town It is a large red building, with barracks near it. The boat turns round on leaving Sorel, and returns to the St. Lawrence. On the opposite point, General Montgomery erected batteries on taking the place, in 1775, and prepared rafts and floating batteries, which maintained an engagement with the ships in which Governor Carleton attempted to escape to Quebec, and drove him back towards Mon- treal. He afterwards passed ihem in an open boat at night; but his vessels fell into the hands of the Ame- rican?. Berthibr is on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, ibut out of sight, being behind several low islands. Some of the steamboats stop there instead of at Soicl. There is a ferry across. Lake St. Peter. Op entering this large tract of wa- ter, the shores at the opposite end appear like mere lines upon the horizon, and a vessel at the opposite end ap- pears like a mere speck, the length of the lake being 20 miles. Point du Lac, or Woodlands, is seen on the north- ern shore, when nearly across ; ^>ut it is situated beyond the lake. A ridge of high land continues on the north, following the course of the river. Opposite Woodlands is Nicolet, 9 miles from Three Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English and a French church, together with a nunnery, and a college, founded by a Romish bishop of Quebec. Thrkf: Rivers, (Trois Rivieres,] Half Way. This is the largest town between Montreal and Quebec, and is 96 miles from the foimer, and 84 from the latter. The streets are generally straight, and regularly built, though narrow ; and the houses, although neat, are generally only one or two stories high, with windows in the roofs, and, being principally plasier'^d, have rather a dark aspect, like those of Montreal. It contains shops of various sorts, and several inns of a decent appearance. ' i r , y* . % It i f^. >N M "i^^ • V. ^^1 \m , • !• .,,*i i: i24 THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. ', I The Nunnery is in tho east part of the town, and has extensive grounds connected with it. The Parish Church is in tho south part of the town. Two large buildings, formerly ihe Court Ho"se and Jail, with the Nunnery, are the principal objects. While the American forces were on the retreat from Quebec, in 1775, General Sullivan sent General Thomp- son down from Sorel to attack this place. He went down tho right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 mites from the town; but being discovered and misled, be found General Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while Gen. Nesbit was sent to cut off his retreat ; and the battle, which immediately commenced, was short and disastrous to the assailants, who lost their commander, and many offi.'iers and soldiers, as prisoners, although they had few killed. After several hours we approach Le BiGNKUx, a village on the south side of the river, known by its double-spired church. It stands on a steep bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the commeneement of tho Richelieu rapids. The river here winds between broken banks, and the number of cottages is so great as to make the scene more animating. A few blue, but not lofty mountains, are seen down the river. Rapids of Richelieu. The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs with great velocity, particularly the first three miles; but the water is deep, and the surface unbroken, except near the shores, which are lined with in- numerable loose round stones and rocks, extremely dan- gerous to vessels when they get among them. These rocks seem placed with much regularity, forming two ranges. Although the navigation of this part of the St. Lawrence requires great skill and caution in other vessels, steamboats pass with security; yet, on account of the force of the current at ebb tide, even they are obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in such a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Vessels are often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids for a change of tide, or for a steamboat to tow them up. The rapids extend about 9 miles. St. a >?toine, on the south bank, is 18 miles, (6 leagues) and has le town, and Jail, eat from Thorap- jntdown ilea from iO found lile Gen. e battle, isastrous nd many had few the river, n a steep meement I, and the ene more I, are seen ibout two ularly the e surface id with in- nely dan- . These ming two Df the St. 3r vessels, jnt of the obliged to way as to Dften seen je of tide, ds extend 6 leagues) ROUTE m 0A5ADA. 1 »7. '■iJ from Quebec. The mountain seen towards the north- east is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes a beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by culti- vated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of wood- land ; on the side of the ridge, about midway from the water to the top, passes the road. The south shore, on the contrary, continues high and abrupt and nearly perpendicular, with innumerable cottages peeping over the brow. PoiNTE Aux Trembles, a village on the north shore. The river is about the same breadth all along here, viz. about two miles, although it appears much narrower ; the depth is about 5 fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 15 feet- Notwithstanding the thickness of the population on the shores, the country is a wilderness only about four miles back, beingf comprehended in what is called the King^s Hunting Ground^ which extends from Three Rivers, 40 or 60 miles below this place. Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the river of the same name, which is likewise distinguished by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- rence. Here are the remains of the first church in Ca- nada. Carouoe CREEk, on the north side. Here a pretty view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at the distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beau- tiful land, and a range of fine mountains in the rear. Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on the lower side, at its mouth. Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi is seen, covered with white buildings one of which is the church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a considerable distance invisible. The banks rise to a greater and greater height, and present every variety of surface. Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was fought the final battle between the English and French in 1759, pf'.er the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, which completed the conquest of Canada. •Mi-- ¥m r r. ^ \ h 1 j' ; > I-. ., t-. 1*1 ( . 128 qTIEBEC ■•' H^ Upper Town soon begins to -spen to view above, though the principal part of it is on the vop and the opposite side. The Castle of St. Louis, cv the Governor's House, •overhung this precipice, being built on supporters ; and made r --'gpicuous appearance, interrupting the city wall, v; J > encloses the Upper Town. It has been burnt. But the current is too swift to allow much time for observation before arriving at the wharf, where the travel- ler will find servants in waiting from the principal public Jiouses in the city: these are all in the Upper Town, the ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and labori- *iU3, so that the stranger will want their assistance as guides. The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and contains no decent public houses. After three or four turns, you begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is very steep and laborious, and leads to a gate in the city wall, which is Very massive, built in the old European style, of solid stone, very thick, with narrow passage ways for carriages and fool for musl a batter to the It A wa] city, by ing, as i finest of It is I pleasant morency particula much be the morr The w and a Hi space is The 1 public sc one side, the who pictures are a H( Tongues The ( ing out consider? They ma black go stitutions The i left from pictures, hand nea tended b; picture o the Bapt on the Ic Saviour, picture, t and over scending } is tho e preci- 3 draw- ds took ick pro- a little up the ;n there minates site side and the and the jraph is iiildings [Ivanced nne and base of e shore, ns near k, while , though e side. House, ;rs; and the city n burnt, ime for travel- il public )wn, the i Jabori- ance as contains rns, you eep and which is of solid arriages QUEBEC. 12'/ and fooliaen, and a guard chamber abnve, n'ith loophoi i Tor musketeers. On the ri^uht, after passing this gate, is a battery of heavy guns. The street which opens a little to the left leads into the midst of the city. A walk to tho Esplanade, in the highest part of the city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning or even* ing, as it commands a fine view : but Capo Diamond the finest of all. It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first pleasant dayfj to make excursions to the Falls of Mont* morency, the village of Lorette, &c. which will be more particularly spoken of hereafter; and it will be found much better, on several accounts, to set out as early in the morning as possible. The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of the hill, and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but the space is so small that the buildings are extremely crowded* The French Parish Church stands at one end of tho public square, facing the barracks, with the seminary on one side. The Church contains little that is remarkable^ the whole interior appearing rather ordinary, and the pictures having little to boast of: the principal of them are a Holy Family, an Ascension, Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last Supper. The College, which stands a little to the right in com- ing out of the church, is a large stone building in -<. Kich c considerable number of youth are educated by »^x : ^^ts. They may be distinguished in the city by wearing • long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to ^ ich in- stitutions in Popish countries. The Chapel of the Seminary, which standri a liulc left from the principal gate, contain the best colie.j'on o( pictures, it is said, in all Canada: beginning on the righc hand near the door, is a picture of the Virgin Mary at* tended by angels, &c. in the first chapel on that side is a picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar ; on the right, tho Haptism of the Ethiopian, John's Baptism. T . John ; on the left, a porti-uit, St. Peter receiving the . infant Saviour, Devotees, &c. on the church wall, x\c^„ .a a good picture, then the Ascension, and Interment of the Saviour, and over the high altar, a Holy Family, and Dove de- scending; what appears to be some priest's dream ; on the 12 'if ^ i \ *.»• ¥^^■'4 I.. f,': ( . 5«i !' ■ -.. ■ ' 4. 128 PLACE D ARMES. !l-'l S'm- m left side, 13 the Descent of Tongues, and an Angel vi-iitin^ a saint in prison, ,',^ood ; over the altar in the remaining chapel, is the Bapti-^m in the Wilderness, with a number of poor pictures ; ii!id in the church are an EvangeHst, Wise Men presenting Gifts, &c. In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar, are two sculls, with several human bones, placed against red silk, which are regarded with superstitious reverence, as holy and perhaps miraculous relics ; a lamp is kept constantly burning under that on the left hand. The Barracks arc in a large stone building opposite the church, which was formerly the Jesuits' College : it is three and four stories high, forming an angle like an L, each side of which is about 200 feet long. Here are quartered the troops which garrison the city. Here were imprisoned the Americans captured in the attack on the city, in 1775. Convents. There arc two convents in Quebec ; one of them has about 40 Ursulines, who have a large convent and church near the prison, in the west part of the city, and keep a large school for girls. The other convent is lower down, and contains a hospital for diseases of the lighter kinds ; while the most serious and severe are treat- ed at the nunnery near the St. Charles's River, about 1^ miles above the town. These institutions, however, are not now open to visiters as they formerly were; at least it is generally impossible to gain access Lo them. The Arsenal is near the Palace gate, and contains about 100,000 stand of arms, arranged with great regu- larity. The Place d^Armes is a small square on an elevated position, on which stood the Castle of St. Louis, the Governor's residence, which was burnt in 1834. Here is a building containing the Museum of the Society for pro- moting Literature, Science, Arts, and Historical Research in Canada. Here is also the Monument to Generals Wolfe and Montcalm, who fell in the battle on the Heights of Abraham. It is 65 feet high. The street beyond commands a fine view ; and there are several beautiful terraced gardens formed on the steep side of the rock, almost overhanging the buildings in the lower town. irH - ■- ::^\: QUF.nEC. 129 visitin* mnining number ingelirit, !;h altar, I against vcrence, is kept opposite Uegc : it like an Hero aro ere were ik on the ^ 1 one of ; convent ' the city, :;onvent is 3es of the are treat- about 14 ever, arc at least it contains reat regu- elevated .ouis, the Here is ty for pro- Research Generals ,e Heights and there the steep njrs in the Tlie fortifications of the city on the land side are strong-, and worthy of particular attention. St. Louisas Gate is the highest of the city gates, and the street of the same name conducts to it; this leads tu the famous plains of Abraham. The Esplajiade Battery lies between St. Louis and St. John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 4 mortars, with magazines built where they could not be injured by an enemy's shot. The ground slopes in such a manner as to expose a large extent of country to view : the fine fertile })lain beyond St. Charles' River, the beautiful ridge of lands beyond, with the villages of Lorette, Charlebourg and others; the St. Lawrence on the right, with Point Le- vi, the Isle of Orleans, and the fine ranges of distant moun- tains. The mouth of the Montmorency can easily be dis- cerned, on the left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles from the city. That is the spot where the falls are to bo seen, and the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an unsuccessful attack on the French General Montcalm, be- fore the capture of the city. Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, the plan of the defences may be in part discerned, even by an unpractised eye ; and by descending and passing through the gate, the strength of the place will be better under- stood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and other works, are from 20 to 30 feet in height, and formed of stone. The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in order to expose the approach to raking fires. The gate is of very heavy and durable masonry, and the passage through it is a dark arched way, about 55 feet long ; it is closed by two heavy doors, with wickets so placed as not to face each other. Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, about 50 feet high, which contains gentlemen's gardens. The Citadel, on Cape Diamond, i' designed for a place of impregnable strength. It has been gradually progress- ing for a number of years, and is expected to be soon completed. Admission may be usually obtained by appli- cation to the proper officers, and necessary information can be gained at the hotels. The British government intend- tri to devote £5000 per annum on these works; but as tho f- V 130 TUB CITADKL. money was sometimes delayed, they were occasionally ex jiosed to some interruptions. This citadel renders the city defensible against a large force. Most of the works are new, though some parts of the old have been made to serve. They include five or six acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, and extend to the verge of the precipice, IJ48 feet above the St. Law- rence. There arc four bastions and one demi-bastion, a ravelin, in advance of the western bastion, and other out- works. The wails are about 40 feet high, and built per pendicularly, of fine he "n stone; the ditch being blasted out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide. The Casemates. Entering the gates and passing be- hind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is discovered following the wall, built of substantial brick work, and arched over head with such strength as to be bomb proof. These rooms, which are known by the technical name of Casemates, are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and 16 or 18 high, each with a door and two small windows, looking in- ward, and pierced at the other side, with five loop holes each, for musketry. These loop holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and opening with steps faced with iron, to prevent musket shot from glancing in. There are about 40 casemates all towards the land side : the natural defence of the precipice over the water being sufficiently strong to prevent the attempts of an enemy in that direction. The casemates commnnicate with each other by folding doors, which may be thrown open the whole length of the bomb-proofs, and will then fur- nish space for the whole garrison, (from »000 to 5000 men,) to parade at once. The Suhtcrra7iean Passar^e leads from a iittle staircase in the bastion next east of the gate, under the diich, to a small outwork with two or three casemated rooms. The stairs are narrow and spiral. At the corner next the river and town, is the old Cavaliers' Battery, a very heavy stone build- ing, originally erected for the palace of the French governors of Quebec : below it, at the water's edge. Gen. Mont- gomery was killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are six feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on tho top is one of the finest vieA^s that can be imagined: the !• (iUKBEC. 131 lallvcx the c\ty 9 of the re or six ixtt'nd to 5t. Law- [istion, a ther out- milt per J blasted ssing be- scovered >rk, and nb proof, name of 16 or 18 oking in- )op holes the new ced with , There de : the Br being n enemy ate with )wn open then fur- to 5000 staircase itch, to a Ins. The river and one build - governors n. Mont- 9 are six ph on the ined: the l)r')Iid surface of tlio St. Lawrence liesbelow, and strctchefl «)ir far to the ri-^ht and left < the whole city of Quebec is crowded together almodt beneath you, while Point Lovi< with its white buildings^ is seen opposite, with a long stretch of lofty ahoros. Turning the eye in the opposite direciionj the beautiful ridge of land, which begins many miles down the river on the northern side, and rises with II gentle swell from the shore, covered with the richest and most varied display of cultivation, oilers a most delightful view over an extensive and fertile region, beautiful inform, divided into innumerable portions, cultivated by a dense and industrious population, and scattered with their dus^ tered dwellings. On the left, appears, among other vil-* luges, that of Lorette, with the Montreal road for nine miles, almost lined with houses} and on the light that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of the high ground, while v. little beyond it, is the chasm into which the River Mont- morency plunges, with its famous cataract, just before it joins the St. Lawrence ; all the horizon in that direction, and indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the cast, is bt'oken by ranges of line mountains, some of them near and bold, and in other places, between them, distant blue ridges are disclosed, three, four, or five in succession* Tsononthuan Moimtain, which has two summits and 13 2000 feet high in the northwest, is the southern extreme of the granite range teaching from the Labrador coast to Lake Superior. In the south and southwest, where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower range, scattered AVith ctittagos. It may, perhaps, not be hazarding too mucii 10 say, that no scene in Canada, or the United States, can boust of a combination of objects, comparable in va-* riety and magniiicence to those here presented to view. Thei'e is a long staircase o^ many stepg, leading from this elevated position down to the Lower Town, by which it was originally intended to draw up heavy arti* cles. The PlainU of Abra'ham;-^T\)\% interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow in capturing the city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only about the distance of a mile, and should not be Indeed it would be found amply to repay the fteglectcd. ^■•1 i . ''t ¥ '^- -?•. '■ "% 12^ • U rS fi'. -ri'l'i 5- i I l%| 'IS t\ •■■ »l 132 KEtGHtS or AfiItAHAM» trouble, to mako a rrmcli lonji^prexoursion in tlirif dlrcctlotl, as tho rojid is fine and the country inKMi'stin^.* Passing out at St. Louis's Gato, you obsprve a nunnbrr of handsome dwellings and gardens by the road side, until you get some distilncc beyond tho towers, when you turn into tho Rare Course on the left side of the road. The foundation of a monument to Wolfe and Montcalm was laid in lui27. Tlie spot where Gen Wolfe fell is near the corner of the fenced field, oil' toward:* the riveri A little east of the place, is tho remnant of a breast work "with several angles, and comman '/ ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ?3 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 134 rALLS OP MONTMOItENCV. i Rifling' down the coast, nt a considerable elovaticni from the river, many fine views are presented of the oppa» site hanks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of St Anno and Tourmente down the rirer. The dwellings are small, and the inhabitants pooints of view, from which the falls appear to great ad- vantagCi On the fine elevated point formed by the junction of the two rivers, and commanding an unobstructed view upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and down, with several lofty mountains below, the Isle of Orleans oppo- site, Quebec above, and the cataract close at hand, the British here iojk a strong position in July, 1759 ; and from this place made a bold, but unsuccessful attempt against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains of their intrenchments are plainly visible under our feet* The best view of the cataract is to be ei\joyed from the spur of t but the 8] coat of gr The hi banks on ful prcci| «iaty rock the perpei low walei caution, w the tide ri Battle came to o his army c aded the p ton was se there, whe the River the Marqui troops at tl of July 31i east of th< The Fren( and on the to ford the works. S( I^evi in cro ensued ; hi the beach however, t( with 200 A wait or to f but marche hili in amai back from deserted, them, whic obliged tore back to the terrupted b) The ViLi QUEBEC. 135 spur of the rodi, which projects from the eastern shore ; but the spray, which keeps the surface covered with a coat of green, will drench the clothes in a few minutes. The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and the banks on both sides below forms a precipitous and fright- ful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, slaty rock, v uose strata incline from north to south, and the perpendicular veins run nearly N. W and S. E. At low water the Montmorency may be forded, with some caution, where it was passed by the British troops ; but the tide rises faat and high. Battle of Montmorency. When General Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June, 1759, he posted his army on vhe island of Orleans while the fleet block- aded the port. At the end of that month General Moiick- ton was sent over to Point Levi, and established himself there, whence he was able to fire upon the city. Above the River Montmorency, the landing was protected by the Marquis de Montcalm. General Wolfe landed his troops at the mouth of the Montnicrcncy during the night of July 31st, and erscti'd a battery on the precipice north- east of the falls, the remains of which are to bo seen. The French were intrenched along the opposite bank ; and on the 31st of July, General Wolfe sent his troops to ford the Montmorency below the falls, to storm their works. Some of General Monckton's force from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty ensued ; hut the landing was made in the afternoon on the beach to the right of the saw mills. They came, however, too late ; for the thirteen grenadier companies with 200 Americans, who had landed before, refused to wait or to form, as had been intended in four columns, but marched tumultuously round the rock, and rushed up hill in a mass towards the French works, at some distance back from the old redoubt on the point, which had been deserted. A warm fire, however, was directed against them, which cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat to the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to the beach to form. The enterprise was then in- terrupted by a severe storm, and finally abandoned. The Village of Lorette may be taken in the way i.«* 13G LAKE CHAMPLAIN. \f returning from Montmorency, if there should be time enough lemairiing, (which is barely possible,) and the rule along the higli ridge leading in that direction, will be found delightful. Lorette is an Indian village, with a church, and the stranger may furnish himself with m )cca- sins, belts, pipes, &c. Land Route from Quebec to Montreal. Upper Road. (The pleasanter.) 1st post, Lorette 16 miles, 2d Jacques Carlier 16, 3d Descharnbeaux 16, 4th St. Anne 16, 5th BatiscampS, 6th Champlain 9, 7th Aux Cayes 8, 8th Trois Rivieres 6. Lower Road. 1st post, Cape Rouge 9 miles, 2d St. Augustine 9, 3d Pointe aux Trembles 8, 4th Ecureil 9, 6th Cape Sante 9. (Garneau's inn, called " The Three Sisters" is ex- cellent.) 6th Descharnbeaux, &c. 8. ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. Steamboat. Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, nearly at the foot of which General Mont- gomery was killed in 1775. Wolfe''s Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 132. Rapids of Richelieu, p"ge 124. Three Rivers, page 123, Lake St. Peter. William Henry or Sorel, page 122. Montreal, page 114. From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and thb United States. Passage from 3t. John's to Whilehnll. Isle aux Noix 10 miles. Rouse's Point 11, Chazy 12, Plattsburgh 15, Port Kent 8, Burlington 10, Charlotte. Essex 15, Poit ROUTE FROM CAXAUA. i3r Clinton 10, Dalliba's Works, Port Henry 9, Chimney Point 12, Ticonderoga 15, Whitehall 25. On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes much narrower. The Four Channels. Fourteen miles from White- hall, the lake suddenly contracts itself into four narrow passages, between two ranges of mountains, which in some places present perpendicular precipices ; and its bed, at low water, appears almost entirely occupied by a little meadow of the brightest green, through which the chan- nels wind with beautiful turnings. A succession of beautiful little turnings are passed, with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level ground on the margin of the water ; while, on the eastern side, the tow path accon)panies the bank. South Bay opens to the south, and runs down five miles between high mountains. General Dieskau took this route with his army, in going towards Fort Edward, in 1755. The Devil's Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek. The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two very short turns, through which the passage requires a very exact helm. East Bay l "kes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, along a romantic country. A sugar loaf hill will be observed at a little distance on the right, which rises above Whitehall, and makes the approach to that place quite picturesque. Whitehall. On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly a battery, and in the town a block house. Numerous boa >) and great quantities of lumber arc usually seen here, as the Champlain or Northern Canal begins at the bridge, where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky channel. The heights at this place were occupied by Burgoyne's right wing, while he was preparing to march towards Sa- ratoga ; his centre was formed by General Frazer; the Brunswickers on the left, rested on the river of Castleton; and the Hessians were at tbe head of East Day. ^1 ' /I ):-;lI-r It 138 IlaUTE FROM CANADA. i To Albany, by canal packet or stagecoach, 68 m* Fort Anne, 12; Fort Edward, 9; here a coach passes to Saratoga Springs ; Fort Miller, 8 ; Schuylersville, fi ; British Lines, 7 ; (see page 78) ; Passirrg Behmis'a Heights, Stillwater, 8 ; Borough, 3 ; VVaterford,* 8^, Hence railroads lead to Ballston and Troy. The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its nar- rowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. This creek is famous in the history of the operations in thi» region during the revolutionary and French wars; and after repeated exertions to clear it of the logs, &c. by which it was obstructed, it bore the troops sent against Canada, &c. which often passed by thir route, from the days of Queen Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though rough ; and there is little cultivation off the road. Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood Creek makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, so near that there is but little space for the road between. Here Col. Sterry was overtaken, in the retreat from Ticonde roga, in 1777, by Burgoyne's troops, and an engagement took place, memorials of which are occasionally found in the soil to this day. A little south, on the brow of the hill, a quarter of a mile from the stagehouse, stood Fort Anne, in the revolution. The old fort of the same name, built many years pre- viously, and known in the French wars, was about half a mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence a little east of the road, where some remains of the old in- trenchments are still to be seen. The remains of Burgoyne's Road begin about two miles south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are traced about three fourths of a mile, near the present road to a wood. It was formed of logs, and found ne- cessary to render the country passable with his cannon and baggage wagons. The labour necessary for its f )r- mation, superadded to that of clearing Wcwd Creek of the obstructions which Qen. Schuyler had thrown into * Saddle Mountain, whose lody ridge will be seen from almoiit every point in this Vicinity, is 2,800 I'oet liigher than the site ot Williams' College. It derives its name from its rc^scmliiance to a riding saddle. it after the cause of the the road— a some their resources, a mis's Heigh French JV a succession Bay, Lake C About hal where was j The Mun the village o\ young man i having attacl their forces command in of the Amer were approa Edward to b secure her s with her sa\ Anne ; and 1 stopped to d way side ; ar Indians desp last attemptc others, being her to a tree her dead wi borne to her 1 what they cr This story ported that mitted the charge ; and the least ki chargeable bringing trib( could never 1 Fort Ed> bourhood of FORT EDWARD. 130 it after the retreat of the Americans, was one great cause of the delay of the British army, on this part of the road — a delay which allowed the people time to re- sume their spirits, and the officers to lay plans, ob'ain resources, and prepare for the sanguinary scones at Beh- mis's Heights, and the surrender at Saratoga. French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with a succession of high grounds in the direction of South Bay, Lake George, &c. About half a mile above Fort Edward, if? the place where was perpetrated The Murder of Miss McCrea. Miss McCrea lived in the village of Fort Edward. In the revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to whom she was betrothed, having attached himself to the English cause, and joined their forces in Canada, was invested with a captain's command in Gen. Burgoyne's army. After the retreat of the Americans from the lake, and while the British were approaching, he sent a party of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to him, that he might secure her safety. She was very unwilling to proceed with her savage conductors on the road towards Fort Anne ; and had gone only half a mile when the Indians stopped to drink at a spring which still flows by the way side ; and while here were met by another party of Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those who came last attempted to take her under their charge ; but the others, being determined not to give her up alive, bound her to a tree that is yet standing near the spring, and shot her dead with their muskets. Locks of her hair were borne to her lover to prove that tho Indians had performed what they considered their duty to their employer. This story rang through the country} and it was re- ported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged or at least per- mitted the murder. In indignant terms he denied the charge ; and there appears no probability that he had the least knowledge of it. He, however, was justly chargeable with a great offence against humanity, in bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barbarity he could never be sure of restraining. Fort Edward. This village was built in the neigh* bourhood of a fort raised during the war of 1755, for the 13 m ^'i:.'i * A J: •( -.I m uo Font MltLlR. 4 and terribi their couai of their foi or taken c guished tl cleared in confirm th Thisplj an inland I un action ToLR OF NE\V-£NGLA»D. 141 EAST RIVER. Leaving New-York in anyof tljc Eost River steamboats, the traveller has Brooklyn on the right, nov/ the second city tor size in thu state, elevatocl, well built, shady and health- ful. The Navy Yard, just beyond. The Railway, for ships, is above, on the west side. The Penitentiary, and the Fever Hospital, are a little beyond. The Penitentiary on Black .veil's Island, the Poor House Farm opposite, and the Lunatic Hospital on the north end of it. From Hell Gate, on the distant ligh ground, west, is Been the Lunatic Asylum ; and a amber of handsome to New MilforJ, 35 miles, and is to bn flDi8hed;iD 1841. It'will be 73 miles from the Sound to Masbachiiaetts. The Berkshire Railroad will co..nect it with the Greiit Western Railroad, at West Stork- bridge. Begun 1837, estimated cost, a million — has an embankment and a tunnel, maximum'frrade 40 feet per mile, a minimum curva- ture 1000 feet radius. From Bridgeport to West Stockbridge, 95 miles— to Albany 133. The road to New-Hoven passes t!irough Harlem on Manhattan Island, West Chester, East Chester, New-F ochelle, Miimaronec, and Rye, in the State of New-York; and Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport. Stratford, Milford, and Orange in Connecticut In the town of Greenwich, 33 miles from New-York, is a steep hill descending towartis the north, down which General Putnam once effected his escape from several British officers and soldiers during the revolutionury war, when returning from a scout. Ha drove his horse hastily down the rocky hill side, a little east of the road, and near the fence, and saved so much distance as to elude his pursuers. In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New- York, a mile or two before reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground on tho right hand side of the road, which was formerly an almost impene- trable swamp, and, at an early period of our history, was the scene of a hloody slaughter. It was hither that the remains of a powerful and terrible nation of Indians, called Pequods, having fled from their country ahout New-London and Groton, after the destructioit of their fort at Mystic by C^pt. Mason, in lfi36, were cither killed or taken captive. This was their last and total defeat, and extin- guished their nar^e as a nation. Much of the ground has beea cleared in modern times ; and some reliques have been found to confirm the traditions of the neighbourhood. This place was burnt by the British in the revolution. Danbury, an inland town, was also burnt, with extensive public storei, and uii actioa was fought in which Gen. Wooster fell. 142 NEW-HAVEM. w I ■t i country houses along- the groen shore on the left. The surface is broken by several rocks, and by the agitation of the water, particularly at tho whirl called the Great Pot, a little north cfthe point, and the rapid current on the oppo- site shore, known by the name of the Hog's Back. In coming from the north, almost the first view of New-York is here presented, between tho western shore and BlackwcU's Isl- and, with a shot tower on the right. Nkw-Haven. — This is decidedly one of the most beau- tiful towns in the United States. The soil is not very good, and the situation is low ; tho city is laid out in squares, with straight and broad streets, and the elevated ground in the neighbourhood renders the approach very fine from almost every direction. It stands at the head of a spa- cious bay, with a light house on the eastern point, a small battery on tho shore, and two Bluffs, called^East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant peak is seen between them, which is Mount Carmel. The Long wharf is three quarters of a mile in length. The steamboats stop at the bridge, where Railroad cars for Hartford, and carriages will be found in waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, which is more than a mile distant. Near the bridge, is the Steamboat Hotel. The streets are regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is a green surrounded by rows of elms, with three churches and the State House in the middle, and the College build- ings, occupying the western side, presenting a scene pro- bably not equalled by any town of this size in the United States. The abundance of fine trees, the neatness and beauty of the dwellings, the good society of the place, and the distinguished position it holds as a seat of learning, render New- Haven the resort of a great number of stran- gers during the travelling season, and the temporary resi- dence of not a few. There is a Hopkins Grammar School in the town, and a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies. Yale College. This institution, however, is the prin- cipal object whicii will attract the attenlion of the stran- ger. It was founded in 1701, commenced at Killing- worth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few years permanently fixed in this town. The first building was of wo'/d, and Bti'cets. 'I contummg chamber a ro»)m3 and turo Galiei the splendi finest coUe from the li buildin''- is man delive 500 schola Next no Day, and town. The Mei street. The Nk Medical In partly plan ber of beat one of the The Oi.i green, in ti be seen tv whicii are i gicido jud gome doub The Fai the wharf up from t large and < part of the on the nor is crossed the canal p opens tovvi Rocks J a« passes thi TJews of 1 Tbcre TOUR or NEW-KMGLANT). M^ wof7(l, and stood near tho corner of CoUogo and Chapel* 8ti'oot«. There are now four huililirii^s for studt'iita, each C(»ntaining 32 rooms, a Cha{)cl, wiih a riuh»»ophicrtl chamber and apparatus, arnl a Lyceum, with recitation rooms and the hbrary. In tho rear are the Trumbull Pic* ture Gallery, tho Common'* Hall, in a small building with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is tho finest collection of tlifC kind in the United States, purchasedt from the late Colonel Gibbs, of New-York. In another buildinjO' is tho Chemical Laboratory, where rroCi»««9or Silli'' man delivers bis lectures. The institution contains above 500 scholars. Next north of the Collofre ts the house of rrosidont Day, and tho professors have pleasant residences in the town. The Medical Institution is at the north end of College* street. The Nkw Buryino GroWnd is situated opposite the Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a great num- ber of beautiful monuments, of different designs. It \s one of the most beautiful cemeteries in this country. The Old Buryino Ground was in the middle of thd green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are to be seefi two ancient stone monuments, of a small size/ which are aupposed to mark the graves of two of the re- gicido judges, Whalley and Oixwell, although there ia some doubt on the subjpct. (See Stiles^ Judges.) The Farmington Canal, commencing near the head of the wharf in this city, is crossed by the traveller in going up from the steamboat, near the market. The basin i» large and commodiojis; and the canal, passing through a part of the city, and bending round along the outskirts,^ on the north side, intersects several streets, by which it is crossed on handsome bridges. With a gradual ascent^ the canal passes somewhat circnitously up the valley which opens towards Mount Carmel, between East and Wes£ Rocks \ and one of the stage roads to Hartford, which passes through Cheshire and Farmrngton, affords man/ Tiews of it in different places. There are pleasant rides in various directions frorn 13* -'••'' 1 III ^ ' I ^■^ i>i U4 KKW-ItAVIfr. New-Haven, the roads being numerous, and the fnce of the country favourable. The two mountains command extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiguing, the excursion is recommended to those who arc fond of such enterprises. The JuDOEs' Cavb is on the summit of West Rock, about a mile north of the bluff; and the way to it leads near I3eavcr Pond and Pine Rock, (on the south side of which id a small cave,) then between Pine and West llocks. You here turn off the roud to the left, by a path across a brook; and a guide may usually be obtained at a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path to the summit. The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion. It ii small, and entirely above ground, with a rude rock, like a cobunn, on each hand. That on the right contains this inscrinlion-^ '*Oppoiitioa to TyranM ii obedience to God,'* to remind the visiter that the place once afforded shelter to Goffe and Whallcy, two of the judges of King Charles the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted them* selves for some time in this solitary place. They were supplied with food by a family which resided near the foot of the mountain, and a little boy ^as despatched for them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a rock, without knowing what cause he was subijerving. The place commands an extensive view upon the coun" try he low, with a large tract of Long Island, and the Sound. The Manufactory op Muskets is 2 miles north of New-Ha'-en, on the road to Hartford by Meriden, and at the foot o( East Rock. It was established by Mr. Whit- ney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Jin. Tkc New-Have7i and, Hartford Railroad^ 40 miles long, begins at the steamboat wharf, avoids the city, crosses Quinnepiack river, and passes through the town- ships of North Haven, W^allingford, Meriden, Berlin and Wethersfield. / J^-^ -"'"'y i f >tt .7 iV 1^ ^/r^ U^/> f^Lrrr. V^i 4 U^P] i > /^•j' ^i^ ■> *■*'', • V 1 V 't V ,^ I. .» ♦}?. '. Hi i !j^ ^ Jk4A tt pursui foad," the ven and Hi was oritjin most of th( veller who road, throu those place Beyond ter of islan tions of the resort of C solid 2oId, where herei We shal Connecticu for an acci subjects an wich, the Stoninglon port, Provi Saybro( first settlen It was doi rightful prG been despc enemies, th histories ui plication tc obtain settl land enoug the benefil considered 1635, whei nation to & their own, Boston by Indians, ar Their haste after their ing up to I ^ i «U. tOUK OP NE\V-SNOLA!fD. 145 tt pursues the general course of ** the old colonial foad," the route taken in early time? between New- Ha* ven and Hartford, which v le independent colonies. It was originally an Indian trail. It unfortunately avoids niost of the villages in its neighbourhood, so that the tra- veller who wishes to seu them should take some other road, through either Middletown or Farminglon. (For those places see Index.) Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound lies a clus- ter of islands called the Thimbles, famous m the tradi- tions of the neighbouring Connecticut coast, as the ancient resort of Capt. Kidd, a notable pirate, whose treasures of solid gold, it is still believed by some, are concealed some- where herealjouts. We shall here leave Long Island Sound to proceed up Connecticut River, and only refer the reader to the Index for an account of the coast beyotid, and the following subjects and places : New-London, the Thames, Nor- wich, the Mohegans, the Pequods, Saccacus's Fort, Stonington, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett shore, New- port, Providence, &c. Saybrooc, Connecticut. At this place was the first settlement made by Europeans on Connecticut river. It was done at the earnest solicitation of many of the rightful proprietors of the country tin its banks, who had been despoiled of their possessions by their formidable enemies, the Pequods. The River Indians, as our old histories usually denominate the former, twice made ap- plication tc the English at Plymouth and at Boston, to obtain settlers from their native soil, offering to give them land enough, and to pay 200 beaver skins annually for the benefit of their society. Bui the undertaking was considered too hazardous, and it was not until the year 1635, when the Dutch at New- York shewed a determi- nation to seize upon the country, which they claimed as their own, that a small detachment of men was sent from Boston by water to prepare for opening a trade with the Indians, and to build a fort at the mouth of the river. Their haste was soon justified by events: for immediately after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered, and proceed- ing up to Hartford, landed a body of men, who seen cflta- )Li lit- nf " * r. ■;■♦}!. J m CONNECTICUT RIVER. V :a blished themselves in a fort they called Good Hope, on a spot they obtained from Pequod usurpers. The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant made to Lord Say nnd Seal, Lord Brook, and others, by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this country with his family. The old fort stood near the present fort hill, upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the waves; and the ground immediately behind it was after* wards occupied by the fields and habitations of th^^ colo- nists. It was expected from the iiret^ that the situation would render the place a great city ; and after the fear of the Indians had subsided, the whole peninsula, which bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the greatest regularity into fields of an equal size, except sue h parts as were reserved for the erection of public buildings. Many emigrants w^re once collected in England, and prepared for a voyage to this place. Some persons of high rank and importance were among them, and it is a well-authenticated fact, that Oliver Cromwell had deter- mined to embark in the enterprise, and was once on the very eve of quitting Englan'l for ever, when some un- foreseen occurrence prevented him. The want o( a harbour, and the obstacles presented to a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth of the river, have efTectually prevented the expectations of the settlers of Saybrook from being realized; and no remains of their works can now be discovered, except in the rec- tangular forms of the fields, and the cellars of some of their dwetlingA, just beyond the burying ground, the foundation stones of which have since been employed in building the neighbouring fences. One of the largest excavations is said to have been the cellar of the old col- lege building. The soldiers were frequently attacked within a short distance of the fert by the Pequods, but they afterwards ran a palisade across the isthmus which leads from the mam land. Yale College was placed here for a time. CoNNRCTici/T RtvBR. The shorcs present a con- tinued succession of hilly and picturesque country, with few interruptions of level land, from a little above Say- brook as far aa Middlctown. The loughnoss atui locU^f I I nature of tainous tri siderable of rocky i of cultiva the river, ly pictures Essex, paug, is a mit of a h Great Bri came up t by surpris East I mountaino portion of Champion much to t famous for which wer They gave have cease dus Noisei beryls are minerals in Haddai which app( descending orchards, manding h HlOOEN ous along t Middle village, str house lots It is about The Ni west, and divided at every reas above was this place, TOUR OP NEW-ENGLIND. 147 nature of the soil prevent the cultivation of many moun- tainous tracts : yet there are farms enough to give a con- siderable degree of softness to the scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, mingling with little patches of cultivated ground, and the habitations scattered along the river, is very agreeable, and often affords sceiics high- ly picturesque and delightful. Essex, 7 miles from Say brooks formerly (.ailed Petti- paug, is a small village, situated on the ascent and sum- mit of a handsome elevation. During the late war with Great Britain, this place was taken by the enemy, who came up the river in launches, and taking the iahabitants by surprise, occupied the town for a few hours. East Haddam. The landing place hero is rocky, mountainous and wild, and a good specimen of a large portion of the town to which it belongs. The late Gen. Champion's house, built among the rocks above, udds much to the appearance of the place. This region is famous for a kind of earthquakes and subterranean soundst which were formerly common for a short distance round. They gave occasion to many superstitious reports, but have ceased within a few years. They were called Moo- dus Noises, after the Indian name of the place. Large beryls are found in the neighbourhood, and many other minerals interesting to the scientific traveller. Haddam is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which appears like the remains of an old bank of the river, descending to a little meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing ground, &c. while a range of com- manding hills rise beyond. HiGOENUM is one of the little landing places so numer- ous along the river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. . Middle Haddam, 2 miles* This is a pleasant country village, stretching along a hill covered with orchards and house lots, and backed by higher and wilder eminences* It is about 6 miles below Middletown. The Narrows. Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flows between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some long past period, before which, there is every reason to believe, the country for a great distance above was covered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of this place; theie is the appearance of an old channel. mm > * . ' ..-■4.. ■■<» 148 MIDDLKTOWN. where the water probably ran, at a great height above its present level. The Lead Mine is a short distance from the southern bank of the river, near two or three old houses. (See a Utile beyond.) Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to Souheag, un Indian chief, whose dominion extended over the present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wetherslield, The large buildings on the hill in Middletown belong to the Wesleyan University. Middletown is beautifully situated on the western bank of the river, where the water is spread out to a con- siderable breadth, and disappears so sudd'^nly at the Nar- rows that from many points of view, it has the appearance of a small lake, with high, sloping, and cultivated shqres. This is a most agreeable residence. The Wesley tm University has a building 150 feet long, 50 broad, and 4 stories high, with rooms for scholars ; a chapel with recitation rooms above, both of stone ; and an eating hall of brick, 120 feet long, with a piazza. The Quarries of Freestone^ on the opposite shore, liave furnished a valuable building mettarial for some years and have been worked to a considerable extent. There are various pleasant rides in this neighbourhood, particularly to two picturesque waterfalls in Middleiield. In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove, where the road is shaded for near half a mile with those shrubs, which, in the season, are covered with flowers. The en- virons of this place afford other agreeable rides. There are various manufactures carried on here. The Lead. Mine is about two miles below the town on the south shore of the river, accessible only on foot or in a boat, where are several old shafts, which were sunk in the revolutionary war, in a slate rock. The ore is sulphu- ret of lead, in veins of quartz, partly crystallized, and af- fording a few specimens of fluate of lime, and other mine- rals. The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham, at tho foot of Rattle Snake Hill. It is not worth work- ing, at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of peach- bluom of Cobalt may be picko