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STEAMERS CORWIN, UODOEKS, AND ALLIANCE ; THE CKUISES OF CAPTAINS LONO AND liAYNOU OF THE MERCHANT SERVICE: WITH A liRIEF NOTICE OF THE ANTARCTIC CRUISE UNDER LIEUTENANT WILKES, 1»40, AND OF THE LOCATIONS AND OBJECTS OF THE U.S. SIGNAL SERVICE ARCTIC OBSERVERS. ^TcpatcD (!ri)tefls from (IDStial Sources BY PROF. J. E. BOURSE, U.S.IS^. EDITOR OF "HALL'S SECOND EXPEDITION." bosto:n^: d. lothrop and company, Franklin Street. LONDON : TRUBNER & CO., LUDGATE HILL. .1 I I ;> t Copi/ri;/lit, Ev D. Iaithuop and Company. 18H4. C. J. PETERS AND SON, ELECTK0TYPRR3 AND 8TEREOT1PEB8, US TllOlf Stkit. i '\^ / 'V TO THE AMERICAN EXPLORERS, NAVAL, MILITARY, AND CIVIL, AND TO THE MEMORY OF THE GALLANT SPIRITS WHO OPENED UP THEIR PATHWAY. i;i Vy'l m m ill 1 the! its 8 voya 1 mess auth byC Btruc — D the { ward ice, , Arri^ Tl grapl the*' an ici obser the i< South south — Rei Govei Lady Ketur: ^olun TABLE OF CONTENTS. im im\ ■ ■1\ 4 CHAPTER I. Tlie Arctic rcRions, sea and land — Comparison of the ice zones of tlie North and the South— Tlie problem of the Pole and the Northwest Passage— Chief attempts for its solution— Participation in these attempts by the American Colonies— American voyages resulting from the Franklin Expedition, and their renewal in 1850 . . . CHAPTER n. The Grinnell Expeditions — Reviving Arctic exploration — President Taylor's message to Congress transmitting correspondence with Lady Franklin — Resolution authorizing the expedition approved, May 5, 1850— Mr. Grinnell' s memorial supported by Clay, Seward, and Pearce, in the Senate — Officers of the First Expedition — In- structions of Secretary Preston to UeHaven, who sails from New York, May 22, 1850 — Dispatches from St. Johns and the Whale-Ship Islands — Dellaven's report of the graves found at Beechey Island — lie arrives at Griffith Island — Drifts north- ward—Geographical discoveries — Eastward into Baffin's Bay — Freed from the ice, June 10, 1851 —Again released, Aug. 18 — Sails from Holsteinborg, Sept. 6 — Arrives at New York, Sept. 30 CHAPTER in. THE SECOND GRINNELL EXPEDITION, 1853-55. The expedition designed by Kane — Contributors — Paper read before the Geo- graphical Society of New York — Assistance by the Secretary of the Navy — Officers of the "Advance" — Fiskernaes — Crossing Melville Bay — The "Advance" moored to an iceberg — Rensselaer Harbor — Provision depots for spring explorations — The observatory — Daily ship life — Morton's reported Polar Sea — The brig fixed in the ice — Attempt to reach Beechey Island — Nine of the company leave for the South ; their return — Scurvy — The brig abandoned — Boat and sledge journey southward — Rescue of Kane by Captain Hartstene at Disco — Arrival at New York — Reports to the Department — Summary of results — Appreciation by the British Government — Publications of the narrative — Kane's failing health — Request of Lady Franklin to him to undertake a new expedition — He sails for England — Return voyage — Death — Funeral honors at Havana, New Orleans, Cincinnati, ^olumbus, Baltimore, and Philadelphia — Kane's religious confidence pAoa n 41 i'. i-ii 66 8 TAHI.K OK (;<)NTKNTS. (^HAPTEIl IV. EXPLORATIONS OF LIEUTENANT JOHN KODOERS, U.S.N. Tlip Exploration of llu' "Vincpiuu's" a pari of tin; Unilt'd States Kxpodition uiidor Coiimianiler KinpiKolil — Appropriation by ( 'oii^rt'ss — Objects — .Secretary Kennedy's instructions — Sickness of ("oniniandcr Kini^f^old — Lieutenant Kodfjers succeeds to the conunand — Loss of the " I'orpoise " — The " Vincennes " leaves Hoii!; Kong for her Arctic cruise — Arrives at I'clropaulovski — Condition of the town — Enters llerinR Straits — Leaves a party under Lieutenant Hrooke at (ilassenapp — Habits and customs of the natives — The "Vincennes" in the Arctic Sea — Anchors in latitude 72^' ')' North— .Sails over the tail of Herald Shoal and locates Herald Island — Can see no tr.ace of Plover Island — Approaches Wranj^ell Lantl — Returns to St. Lawrence Bay and (ilassenapp for Lieutenant Brooke's parly — Arrives at Sat> Fran- cisco, Oct. i;j, 1855 — Suggestions for the publication of the full narrative . ... 108 Cn.MTKU V. EXPLORATIONS OF DR. ISAACS 1. H.WES, 1800-01. Design of Dr. Hayes for a new exploration suggested while on his lirst voyage with Kane — His plans supported by the Smithsonian and other iuftitntions — Sails from Boston with Sonntag, July 7, 1800 — Arrives off Priivou on the twenty-fourth ilay out — Adds to his ship's company and supplies at Upernavik — Crosses Melville Bay in tifly-tive hours to Cape York — Winters at Port Foulke — Observatory set up — Observations made — Experiences of the season — Death of Sonntag, Hans' accoiuit of it — The Arctic night described — .\ttempts to launch the boat on the Polar Sea — Highest point reached — Belief in the existence of the open sea conlirmed — Ex- l>oriences of recent navigators compared with this — Explorations and surveys made on the return voyage to the United States — Purpose of a new expedition — Recep- tion of the gold medals from abroad — Volumes published 132 CIIAPTKK V^I. THE ORINNELL AND HAVEN EXPEDITION OF C. F. HALL— THE FIRST OF HIS THREE VOYAGES, 1800-02. Hall's motives for his lirst voyage — Arctic study — Limited resources — Reasons for believing that some of Franklin's men still lived — Circular endorsed by leading men of Ohio — Generous aid by Mr. Grinneli and by Williams and Haven — Sails from New London — Buries his native companion, Kud-la-go — Visits Holsteinborg — The kayaks — The belted and the gothic icebergs — Arrives at Cornelius Grinneli Bay — First impressions of the natives — Destruction of the "Rescue" and the expedition boat — First acquaintance with Ebicrbing and Too-koo-li-too — Inland excursion — Ex{)lorations in the spring following — Discovery thiit Frobisher "Strait" is a b.iy — Finding of the Frobisher relics confirmed by Barrow's history — Explorations in the spring and summer of iS&2 — Notes of Eskimo dress, habits, and superstitions — Return to the United States with the two natives and their child . 161 TAHLK OK CONTKNTS. CIIArTKK VII. nAIJ;s SKCOXD ARCTU; KXI'KDITION — UKSIDKXrE AM()\(J THK ESKIMOS, IH(M-(M). Propamtory Inbors — Paper bcforo t\w AiiHTioan (JcoKraphiral Society — Pro- hiHlxT relics sent to Loiuloii and lo thf Sinitlisoiiian — IjccIuivh — IMaiis for lln' new voyanc — Sailing of tiio " Monticcllo" — Landin}; at \Vhal«' I'oiiit — First inter- course with the natives — KcastinK — Ankooting — The Key-low-lik — 'A'alrus Imnt — New Year's Day— Sealing— Hall's first prize— (^aptine of a whale— Winter quar- ters at Fort lIopxpu(lition DcLong's own prompting— Mr. liennctt uiuiertukes It — Selection of the route — Theories — DcLoiig's plan — The " Jcaiuiette " eoiiiiuissioned — Re- port of the HoartI of Inspection at Marc Isluntl — Ofllcers and Crew — Sailing from San Francisco — Arrival at St. Michael's — Reports of Nordenskiiihl — Passing the Straits — Attempts to reach Wrangell and Herald Islands — Frozen in the Pack, Septcmherfl — Chlpp attempts the crossing to Herald Island — The "Jcannette" drifts northwest past Wrangell Land — Pumping begun — Lieutenant Dancnhowcr disabled — The return of the sun — Experiment of the windmill pump — DeLonR abandons the theory of the currents — ScientlHc observations kept up — The frozen summer — Auroral phenomena — Continued drift northwest — Discovery of Jean- nette and Henrietta Islands — The " Jeannette " crushed — Landing on the floe — Discovery of liennett Island; descrli)tion of it by Dr. Ambler — The three boats — Their separation — The whaleboat party land on the Lena Delta — The first cutter under DeLong — Sufferings — DeLong's last entries — Danenhower's search — Melville's search — The dead ten found — Their burial — Return of Lieutenant Dancnhowcr- Search begun by Lieutenant Ilarber — Engineer Melville's return — Appropriation to bring the bodies home — Their expected arrival 363 CHAPTEH XI. RELIEF EXPEDITIONS FOR THE "JEANNETTE "—THE TWO FIRST CRUISES OF THE "CORWIN"— THE CRUISES OF THE "RODGEltS" AND "ALLIANCE." The " CoBwiN's " Fihst Ckuisk, 1880. The missing whalers — Instructions of Secretary Sherman for their search and for the " Jeannette " — The ship relilted at San Francisco — Arrives at Ounalaska, June 7th — Nipped in the pack off Cape Romanzoff, June 10th — Enters the Arctic Sea, 28th — Last sight of the "Mount Wollaston" and "Vigilant'' reported by Captain liauldry— Visit to the cave dwellers on King's Island — The coal vein East of Cape Lisburne —Within seven miles of Herald Island — Wrangell Land in sight — Land seen to the North — Return of the "Corwin" — Captain Hooper's notes of the ice — Of the habits and customs of the natives on the shores of the Arctic and Bering Sea 428 Second Cuuise of the " Corwin." Instructions of Secretary Sherman — Officers — Sailing from San Francisco — Onalga Pass — Ounalaska — St. Lawrence Island — Reports of the missing ships at Cape Serdze-Kamen — Arrival of the " Corwin " — Sledge party to search tlie shore — Plover Bay — Return to Cape Serdze — Landing on Herald Island — Character of the Island — Landing on Wrangell Land — Discovery of this land by Captains Long and Raynor, 1867 —Visit to Point Barrow — Return to San Francisco — Tribute to DeLong 447 TABLE OF CONTKNT8. TnK CmrisK ok tiik *' KonoBns." u r* litions to Confltress for relief of the " Jcannctte " — Appropriation granted — Selection of vessel — The " Mury and Helen" purchased — A Naval Uoard con- vened for advice in regard to the search — Its oftkers — Suggestions — Testimony of 8hii)-captains and exjM'rts — Instructions to Lieutenant It. M. IJerry — The ** Uodgcrs" equipped and eonunisHioned — Ilor ottlcers — Arrives at St. Lawrence Uay, at I'ctropaulovski, Wrangoll Land — Finds a harbor and explores the island — Kcaches lat. 7:5^^ 44' — Arrives at Caini Scrdzo and lands a party to search for the missing crews — The " Hodgers " burned — Master Putnam lost on the ice — Lieu- tenant Berry searches the coast — Joins Engineer Melville at Yakutsk — Learns the orders to Lieutenant Ilarber and returns home 473 The CiirisE of tiik U. S. Steamku " Alliance," June 16 to Oct. 11, 1881. Fitting out of the "Alliance " — Instructions to Commander Cooper and to Com- mander VVadlelgli — Arrival at Hcykiavik — Description of the " Jeannette " circu- lated — The harbor of Ilammerfest, Norway — Green Uay, Spltzbergen — Tidal marks established — Cruise in lat. 7U° — The ico barrier — lieturn to the United States under orders 486 CHAPTER XII. THE ANTARCTIC CRUISE OF LIEUTENANT (LATE ADMIRAL) CHARLES WILKES, U. S.N., 1830-40. The Antarctic region a terra incor/nita — Object of Its explorations compared with explorations in the Arctic — National aid required — Earliest American dis- covery — Foreign explorations, private and national — Wilkes' cruise a part of the plans of the exploring expedition of 18;J8-42 — Organization of the squadron and its route — First cruise towards Cook's Nc-plus-uUra — Cruise along the ley barrier — Reported discovery of the continent — Award of the gold medal by Rcyal Geographi- cal Society, London — Discoveries of Ross — Scientific results — Collections in the National Museum, Washington 489 CHAPTER XIII. SUMMARY OF THE EXPEDITION, BENEFICIAL RESULTS. The American Arctic Expeditions — Highest points reached — Value of Arctic explorations endorsed by Weyprecht, Maury, Henry, IJache, Barrow, and Osbom — Meteorological stations in the ice zones — Their purpose distinct from the Polar problem — Lieutenant Weyprecht's proposition — Stations under the International Commission recommended by Professor Henry — Preliminary voyage of the " Flor- ence" — Sherman's and Kiimlien's reports — Signal Service Station at Lady Frank- lin Bay — Unsuccessful attempts for relief — Signal Service Station near Point Barrow — Preliminary reports — Geographical discovery — Benefits to the whale fisheries — Small number of lives lost in the expeditions — Further explorations . . 525 ii;, iV ■j' ii 'Mlpl Ivili! ERRATA. Page 330. Title of Cut. For "Tyson's crew sighting the * Ravenscraig ' off Labra- dor," read " Biidingtou's cre>, sighting the ' Ravenscraig.' " Page 3r)3, line 20. For " 1881 " read 1818. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. % ! CiKCUMPOLAK Map Pocket. Map op Alaska and the Strait Paga 470,471 W&aoti lEngrabtngd. Paok In the Pack Frontispiece. Scaling an Iceberg 19 Barometei' of Franklin's Expedition, 38 The Crow's Nest 55 The Three Graves 58 Portrait of Kane* (to/ace) ... 65 Harbor of St. Johns 69 An Arctic Moonlight Scene (to face) 87 Godhavn 90 The Kane Medal 105 Portrait of Admiral Rodgers (to face) 108 Portrait of Dr. Hayes* (to face) . . 132 Belted Iceberg 134 Upernavik 135 Foiilke Fiord 143 The Best Part of a Sledge Journey, 140 Unfurling the Flagij ("Tlie Open Polar Sea," J R. Osgood & Co.), 148 A Snow Village 156 Chart of Smith Sound ("The Open Polar Sea," J. 11. Osgood & Co.), 159 Vignette of Sir John Franklin . . 164 Governor Elborg in his Oomiak 169 Paob 170 Eskimo Woman and Ciiild . . Kyak Somerset 171 Gothic Iceberg ....... 172 Loss of the " Rescue " 175 Nik-u-jar, the Boat Steerer . . . 170 Eskimo Dog 177 Eskimo Lamp 178 Storm Bound 179 Passing through Lupton Channel . 183 Indian Summer Village .... 184 One of Frobisher's " Gold Mines," 185 Eskimo and Seal Dog 192 Seal Hole anil Igloo .... 194, 195 Too-koo-litoo, Hall, and Ebierbing, 197 Eskimo Lamp 198 Sir Martin Frobisher 201 Frobisher Bay and Grinnell Glacier 207 Polar Bear of Hudson Strait ... 208 Snow Partridges 212 Hall's First Igloo, Grourd-plan, 213, 214 Game of Cup and Ball 216 Key-low-tik and Ken-toon .... 217 Playing the Koy-low-tik .... 219 Sek-koons 220 • From " The Jeauiiette," by Capt. Perry. Kewinan & Coburn Publishlug Company. 14 LIST OF ILLUSTKATFONS. A Walrus-IIunt A Walnis Ilciul Grouiul-plan of New Year's Day Igloo Ground-plan of Igloo Built on a .Ioiirn«ry Arrowtar . Ebierhinj; Going out Sealinj; . . Capturing a Wliale Too-koo-litoo (Hannah) .... Ar-too-a l>rowno(J in his Kia . . Iniuiit Ilcad-Uniarnent Now- Yarn Harbor Aurora Sketchotl by Hall .... Papa'.s Sketch of Tond IJ.iy . . . Franklin llelics '_'47, IJone-Charms and Knife .... The Tenting- Place Monument and Coast-LirK; . . . Hair.s lioat-Log Snow Village Setting out for King Willia Land Hair.s Tablet-Covers .... Ivory Kniv(!s Pago of Hall's Note-Book . . . . Sir John Franklin's Desk .... Hannah's Musk-()x and Deer Horns, Fiskernaes liiehtenfels Tessnissak, or Tessiussak .... Shooting Walrus "Polaris" Passing Fitz-Clarenc(! Ro(;k Working through the loo .... " Polaris " in Thank-God Il.irJior . Landing Stores on the Ic(( . . Shooting a Musk-Ox The Cairn Funeral of Captain Hall .... The " Polaris " Adrift 223 224 22G 227 228 2.'5() 2;}3 2'M 237 2;J8 2.19 211 212 248 2r,i 2,J4 2ri5 2r>7 2rj8 .1 202 2(;.'5 2(',C, 208 272 274 277 279 281 283 285 287 290 291 299 301 .328 330 3.33 338 342 31.'i 350 Fastening to the Berg 303 Mock Moons .309 " Polaris " rounding tlus Berg . . 311 Boat Camp 313 House on the Floe 314 Before Stsparation ^ITi The Separation 317 Polaris House, Life-Boat Cave . . 319 Landing on Northumberland Isl- and Sijrhting the " Bavenscraig" . . Hall's Medal from Paris .... Hall's Grave Ou-se-gong and Kud-lui)-[)a-nnme . Lieut(!nant Schwatka (" Sehwalka's S(!arch," Scribner's Son.s), to Jure Franklin's Spof)ri The March SoMlbward ("Schwatka's Search," Scribncr'- Sons) . . . Cold Weather Eskimo Needle-Case Lieut(!nant-Conimandcr DeLong,* {I o face.) Lieutenant Chi])p* (iieutenant Danenhower* .... Engineer Melville* Siu'geon Aiiililer* An Arctic Boat Journtiy .... The D(!lta TheCro.ss* '11.5 The Tomb* 117 The "Corwin " in a Nip .... 131 II(!rald Island 435 Oomiak 445 Ar(;ti of land, s|)read- inu out in such almost unbi'okcn continuity as to tempt some to •ii" theory 111, It nearer llic I'olc the hnid masses arc M'jaraled bv ARCTIC AM) ANTAI.'TIC KK(iH)NS COMrAIU:!). 19 a (;liaiii of isliinds only. Tliis essontial (lirfercuee in tlie laiul sur- faces accouiits ill part for the rxtrcnic (lil'fcrence in llic sumnicr teiu- peratures of the two zones. Tho ice barrier of the south lias lu'cn but once jtenet rated beyond the seventy-eighth degree. And whiU', even in Sjtit/.bergcn, vegetation aseends the mountain slopes to a iieight of pi- tfo ■ ■ t SCALLNG AiS iCEliEUG. Kroin (.'aptiin ll^U's "Arctic lUscirvlieiji" publiahcd L)> Uaritir \ llru^. three thousand feet, in every land within or near the .Vntarctic cirele ihu snow line descends to the waters edge. Not even a moss or a lichen has been observed beyoiKJ south latitude (!4^ 12'. In S[>itz- hergen the thermonu'ter has risen to 08.^^ but during the summer months s[>ent by Sir .James Uoss in the Antarctic, tln' temperature of the air never once exceeded 41° .V. Xo hunters there, like the Eski- mos, chase the seal ov the walrus: no h(M'dsmen, like the La])ps, follow the reindeer to the ocean's edge; not a single land ([uadru[)ed exists beyond ;")(}' : all is one di'cary, uninhabital)le waste. In the nculh, coasts and valleys at equal distances from the Cipiator are green with vegetation ; in the south they are wastes of ice and snow. Tlie spread of the northern lands ])oints us. as has been said, chietiy 1-1 li: j I , Ml 20 AMEKICAN EXI'LOUATIONS IN THIO ICK ZONES. to tlie causes of this difforence. The philns of Siberia and of Northern Aineriea, warmed by the sunuuer's sun, become centres of radiatinj^ heat; but the Antarctic lands, of small extent, isolated in the midst of frigid waters, and chilled by the cold sea-winds, act as constant refrige- rators. In the north, icebergs are found iu a few mountainous coun- tries only ; upon Antarctic lands they are more continuous, tower much higher, and their vast fragments perpetually maintain the low temperatures of the sea, detached bergs luiving been met with as near the equator as the mouth of the La Plata. In the latter regions n(» traces of warm currents have been observed beyond the fifty-fifth degree of south latitude ; but in the north the well-known gulf stream carries its powerful influence as far as Norway, Spitzbergen, and Nova Zembla, thus making the northern zone, by comparison, an attractive scene of exploration and adventure.* Arctic exploration may be said to have had at first but one purpose : to reach the Pole, and cross it from continent to continent; and this, indeed, has been the chief element in the polar problem for the last threi and a half centuries. It is the purpose of this volume to refer briefly to the events giving rise to this problem, to the persistent efforts for its solution, and to the beneficial results secured by these seemingly useless labors. The Pole has not been reached, and may not be, and the short, navigabh; route is demonstrably impracticable. But the incidental results of exploration have far more than compensated for every expenditure of thought and money, for all of exposure and dis- appointment. For lessons in i»atience, self-sacrifice, and heroic en- durance, few clearer exam[)les can be drawn from the world's history than those to be found in the baffled attempts to reach the Pole. And yet the world has learned from these, that Providence, which shapes the destinies of men and nations, ordains that while men may fail to * The remarkable plienomenon of the ijreat difference between the two zones is ac- counted for by the meteorologist. :Mr. froll. on the ground that, in long lapses of time, their climates alternate, through the change in the eccentricity of the earth's orbit, in combination with the precession of the eciuinoxes. In both regions extensive fossil re- mains prove that a tropical or semi-tropical climate formerly existed. Our age is that of excess of cold in the Antarctic zone. EARLY SKAUCH FOK A PASSACJK T< » (^ATMAV. 21 attain their first and i)orliai)s less valuahle aims, a larger reward often awaits their unrelinciuished efforts. The problem of the Pole and the northern passaj^e had its birth at the great era of the discovery of America and of the new way to the Indies by the Cape of (Jood Hope; discoveries which snatched mari- time commerce from its old seat in the Mediterranean and gave to the Si)aniards and the Portuguese its almost exclusive control. These nations claimed not only the newly-dis('(»vered countries, but the right to the exclusive navigation of the ocean between them; and as the attempt by any other nation to enter those seas involved a war with either, or both, Spanish and Portuguese, the northern maritime nations began seriously to think of some shorter passages to the Indies which would give them commercial superiority. For the East, as the region of barbaric pearl and gold, ever loomed up before the mind as the hmd of unimagined riches, and a readier j)assag(» to it, as a feat of daring but of sure renown. England led the way. "Having then no anticipation of becoming the sovereign of Ilindostan, she hoped for a peaceful intercourse by a nearer avenue to southern Asia." Of this the old navigator, Sebastian Cabot, said, "When the news Mas brought that Don Christoval Colon had discovered the coasts of India, by his fame and report, there increaseth in my heart a great tianie of desire to attempt some notable thing ; and understanding by reason of the sphere (globe) that if I should sail by way of the northwest I should by a shorter tract come into India, I thereupon caused the king to be advertised of my device."' At the later date of loGO, Martin Frobisher, "being persuaded of a new and nearer passage to ('ataya (Cathay) than by C.ipo d'buona Speranza, which the Portng.dles yeerly use, began first v/ith himselfe to devise, and then wlih his friendes to conferre, and layde a playne platte inito them, taat that voyage was not oidy possible by the northwest, but also, as he coulde prove, easie to be performed." It was "the only thing left undone in the world whereby a notable mind might be made famous and fortunate." The voyages of the Cabots established the well-known right of England to the possession of the North American coast, securing for ■I'!;; ^1 .;! i,)i: oo AAIEKICAN I:X1'I.()1:ATH>NS in TIIK ICK ZONKS. «t (lio cmiiiiipf j^cnuratioiis tluiir j^rcut homo til" rrucdum, wliilo French cxploraliiMi iiiidcr V'erniz/iiiii iiml Curticr secured u like cluiiii lor France on llie reiiitdis north oi' the St. I.ii\vi'eni;e a claiui afterward happily ahsoihed nnih'r the domain of ICnylish hiw. A (piarter of a centnrv alk-r ('al)ol*s day, thice aitcmj)ts lor the passage of the north- \\'( 8t hi ivinv donltling the noithern [»romontory of l^apland. The aihnirals fate was tragical. In liis hopi'(l-f(ir shelter in a La|tland harhor he was found dead in his cahin, and his ship's company ''dead in various parts () f ll le vessc alone or ni uroui)S. IJut ids second i>lllicci', C'hanuellor, lirst for the I'^nglish, enti-red the harhor of Arcliangel. It was "'the discovery (d' IJnssia,"" or as a Spanish wiiter says, "a discovery of Xc w Indies, — the connnenc<>ment of maritime commerce lietwcen i^ngland and Ivussia, then (»ne *>( the oldest and least nn.\c(l nations in I^nrope, iiui which was awakening fro)u a long lethargy to emerge into p(»litieal distinction." The vovages of I)a\is < l.")S.")-S(i ), on tju' third of which, when 1 n lat. <•> he was " ni a >''icat sea Ircc Irom ice, neither was there anv ici' toward the north, hut a sea iVee, large, aii'! very salt ano hhu.', and of unsearchahlc depth," added nothing to the discovery of the passage beyond the renewed conxiction ol' that ilay that the way toward the north was without impediment. I'hc same remark may be ai>plied to the vovages id" Uarent/. and Hudson and J>aflin: the two last being nuide in the lirst (piartcr of the century following. Vet the ex[)eriences of the sturdy navigators on the northern Asiatic coast, and the opi'uing up on the north of America of the great inland sea and of the estuaries, Smith's, Lancaster, and Whale Sounds, were further induirincnts lor prosecuting the search. Outside of tlio direct object named. large bcuclicial icsults were secuicd. 'I'he whale lisherics became the great object for which several natio'.is comic'.cd; and the charts of Hallin and the voyages cd' Hudson led the w w II this for the Dutch, and aficrwartl for the Fnuiish mer- chant. But from this date little oi' Arctic exi)loration for the North- west passage was entered ni)on for a i-entury. FIltST i.KPOUTKn AMKIMCAN VOVAOKS. 'S.\ The entorpriso first attracted ntyal attention in the third ([uarter ol'the ei^hleenth ccnlnrv; (Jeorpfe III., at the instance of tlic IJuyal Society of the Adminilty, sciidinir out on expedition un(h>r Captain I'iiipps and titward the regions nmth ot Spit/.l>cr<;'en. In his ".loninal of a \'oy- iige to the Ncnth i'oh',"' tht? eaptain entered the sea "dnrin;^ a snni- nier allordinjjf th(! I'nUest exaniiiuition ; hnl (lie Wiill of ice between hititn(h's (SI)' iind ML' showed for more tlian twenty (h-j^recs not (lie Mnalh'st ap[)earanee (»!' any oi)enin_i;'." In tills expedition, Nelson, then hilt lii'teen yeais of ii^'e. e\iril)ltce was still songht, as jn'omising a shorter and less ex|)ensive nnite; ami an act was jtassed by parliament offering- X-0,000 to any vessel which shonld make the i)assage from continent to continent in either direction. Cook's ships were wholly nnlitte 1 to contend with northern ice. He discovered the Sandwich Islands and explored J5(^hring's Strait, but was speedily driven back by the ice aftm- reachini;' Icy Cai)e. Fr<»m this date Arctic (exploration, with the ex(te]>tion of the discoveries of Mackenzie ami llearne by land, the laudable efforts of the Anu-rican eohuiists, and the attempts of the Russians to double their northern coasts, was again nearly sus[)ended. It is t(» the credit of the provinces of Virgiida and Pennsylvania, and possibly of Khode Island and (d' Massachussetts at a still earlier date, that the enterprise was not lorgotten. The lirst note of these efl'orts here given does not belong to tho region of authentic history, but is referred to as exhibiting indications of at least a more than l)robable knowledge of and sym[)athy with the object. The exix'di- tions of the middle of the eighteenth century show that the colonies, even in their disjointed and feeble state, and in advance (»f the royal countenance of the undertaking, contributed their full share to it. It will be remembered that the Lon(h)n Company, as early as 1007, WKi '! t ■ ■ . '■("■■- i FT f^i u AMKRICAN KXIM-OUATIONH IN TIIK ICK ZONES. iiistnictud tin; Virginia colonists to H(;oi< a coniniunioition with tlie South Sea, and the fiiiMous (/aptuin John Smith was taken [)ri8()ner in liiH ascent of the Cliickahoniiny for that object. It was clearly the jturpose of the ccdonists to find a water route to Asia if possible. In the letter which follows these notices, the odd reference to "the j)nrson " may perha|)s be accounted for i)y remendterinj^ the ohl antag- onisms between the (^luiker and the ollicers ol" the Church of England. KAKLV AMKlilCAN VnVACiKS. I. A VoYAfJK Kki'outioi) to havk ukkn madk from Boston in 1639. — Ellis, in his ''Voyage of the Dobbs and California" says: — "A Mr. (Jroiseleiz, an inhabitant of Canada, a bold and enterprising man, and one who had travelled much in those parts, reached the coasts of Hudson's liay from tlie French settlements. On his return he pre- viiiled on his countrymen to fit out a bark for perfecting the discovery by sea ; which lieing (h)ne, and he, landing on the coast, Avas amazed to find that some of his company had discovered an English settlement near Port Nelson. On his arrival there he found a party who told him they were part of a shij)'s erew from Boston ; that they were set on shiU'e to look for a place where th(! ship might winter." To this statement, which is a condensation of Ellis' narrative, he adds in substance, — "It is impossible to say whether this was the ship in De Fonte's ac(!ount ; but if it was, or if we should be wrong in this conjecture, it will still remain an incontestible proof that some attempts were made fr(»m Jioston. when they were laid aside and forgot at T^ondon and Bristol." De Fonte was the Spanish admiral spoken of by Thomas Jefferys in his "Great Probability of the Northwest Passage, 1768 " as having been sent out to intercept the reported voyage of the ship from Boston, as a violation of Spanish right at the time when Spain enjoyed the exclusive route to the Indies. Snow, in his " History of Boston," treats th«^ story of the admiral as a myth. The voyage was probably for trading purposes. HKN.IAMIN KUANKMN S KXI'KIMTION. W II. A trace of u hetter uutlionticatcd t'XiuMlition is tbiind in tin- *'fi('iillenu'irs Mii^iiziiu'," London, Nov. 1772, wliicli Hays: — " By a letter tVoni .lames Wilder, captain of the Diligence, titteenha_L«en. The Aro-o. liudin^' she eould not get round the ice, pressed through it and got into the snail's mouth the 2(ith of June, and made the Ishnid Kesohition, but was htreed out by vast ([Uanl itics of (hiving iee, and got into a clear sea the first of .lulv. On tiie 14(ii, cruisi nuth and soutii, about fiftv leagues within the coast. In one of the harbors ihcv lound a deserted wooden house, with a brick chimney, which iiad been built by some I'>nglish, as appeared by sunchy things tlu'y Icit be'.iind: and afterwards in another harbor they met with Captain (lolf in a Snow (a tlu'ee-masted vessel, the third mast abaft tiie mainmast, carrying a trysail) from London, who informed them that tiie same Snow had been there last year, and landed some of the .Moravian Hrethren, who had built that liouse ; but the natives, having decoyed the then captain of the Snow iind live or six of his hands in tlieir boat round a point of land at a distance from the Snow, under pretence of trade, and carried them all off (they having gone impru- dently without arms), the Snow after waiting sixteen days without hearing of them, went home and was obliged to take away the Mora- I'lONNSVLN ANIA AND THE NOIITH-WKST I'A-SAC ii:. villus to lu'l[) to work the vessel. Part of the business this ye -I was to inquire after those /esse men ir Cajdain Swaiue diseovi'rcd a tine hmg bank, whieh Hes but six h'au'ues off the eoast, and extcnch from lal. oT" to r)4°, sui)i.<)sed to be the same hinted at in ('ai»lain Davis's sei-ond voya^'c. X(» bad a('('i(hMil lia]i])ened to the vessel, and the men kejjt in perfeet health during the whole voyage aiid returned all well/' Not satistied with the restdts of this attemjit. Captain Swaiue again saih'd in the ''Argo" the following spring, and the •'Pennsylvania Journal and Weekly Advertiser" of Thursilay, C)et. '24, 1T")4. \)\\\>- lished in Philadelphia, says : — On Sunday last arriveil here the schooner Argo, ('ap wanic who was litted out in the spring on the (lisco\ciy of a Northwest tiissau'i' but havino- ijnee of his men killed on the Labradc )r coast returned without sueeess. Tiie " ( Ja/.etle " also says : — "On Sunday last arrived the sehooner .\rgo from a second attempt >f a di )f the North >t au'i )iit without sui liscover; In regard to this voyage, the Penn papers of iIh,' library of the lii>- torieal Society of Pennsylvania furnish the following '•^ Letter from Will. Alleit. merchant, amU at a Inter (/ thanks to discharge. Your kind interposition in our behalf will confer a favor on many of the most consideral)le merchants of this place, and particularly on Your most obedient, humble servant, Will. Allen." Mr. Bancroft, in his ''History of the United States," Vol. IV., p. 141, indorses the fact of the voyages last named. In Jeft'ery's vol- ume of 1768 will be found the statement that a Captain Taylor, in a sloop of about thirty-five tons, was met with July 9, 1758, in about latitude 50° north, which sloop had been lifted out in Rhode Island to go in pursuit of a northwest passage and, if not successful, to come down on the coast of Labrador. i: a llENKWAL OF THE SEARCH. The exidorations suspended by the ill-success of past efforts and yet more by the existence of the long period of the wars in Europe, were renewed four years after the peace of 1815. Its history from that date is so closely connected with the name of Sir John Franklin, the search for whom occasioned its revival in the United States, that it will best evolve itself in the story of his career. The efforts of Kane and Hall for the rescue of the lost explorer, and the noble seconding of these by Mr. Henry Grinnell, of New York, under the auspices of the U. S. (rovernment, hold a place among the deeds of humanity which the world lionors. Sir John Franklin, the youngest of fo\ir sons of Willingham Franklin, merchant, was born April 16, 1786, at Spilsbv, Lincolnshire. His father, designing him for the church, gave him a classical and mathematical education, but the first sight of the f cean so vividly excited the boy's imagination that he determined to be a sailor. His father, thinking that this childish caj)rice would be cured by a taste of sea life, shipped him on a merchant vessel to Lisbon, but on his retuvn found him more thjyi ever a lover of the sea. He obtained for him a midshipman's warrant on the " P(»lyi)iiemus," of seventy-four guns, 'I a(» AMKllK AN KXI'LOKATIONS IN TIIK ICIO ZONKS. tiiiii Liiwford, under wliuin the yomifif offieer took I)urt in the btitth' of Copenhagen, 1801. Iji 1808, he was attached to the '"Investigator," on the survey of the coasts of New Holland, setting out on his return from which cruise he was shipwrecked, with his brotlier officers and crew, on a desolate sand-bank, scarcely four feet above the water, and rescued at the end only of fifty days' suffering. At the battle of Trafalgar, where he acted as signal officer on the " liellerophon," he was distinguished for his coolness and intrepidity in the hours of greatest danger, when sur- rounded by the dead and wounded. The remainder of his active ser- vice was on the coast of Portugal, on the Brazil station, and in the (Julf of jNlexico. His ship in 1808 carried the royal family of I'or- tugal to Brazil, when forced into hasty exile from Lisbon. In the war between the United States and (Jreat Britain, at the battle of New Orleans, he was slightly wounded while in command of the " Belford's " Itoiits. and for his brilliant conduct in this action was made first lieu- tenant of the "Forth." This ship, at the restoration of the Jiourbons, carried the long-exiled Duchess d'Angoideme, daughter of Louis XVL, back to France. From this date his talents Avere ehieflj' enlisted in the field of Arctic exploration, which connects itself with this history. English efforts to icarli the Pole and find the Northwest ])assage were about to be ic\ ived. 'J'he rejjorts made by Scoresby of the existence during the two preceding years of ui)en water to the extent of two thousand s(|uare leagues in llic (Jrceulaiid Sea, between the seventy-tun itli and ciglitieth degrees, north latitude, with like reports of the breaking up oi' the ice barrier on the north, excited the attention of navigators. Tlie Admiralty, inlinenceil by the suggestions of Sir John liarrow, and of Sir .biseph Banks, who. as a scieutilic man, stood high with the gov- ernment, prepared two new ex])editions. and Sir Joseph lianks desig- natei.i Franklin as second in command of one of these. Both expedi- tions were unsucct'ssl'ul. finding, after r(>ac]iing tiie eightieth degree of north latitude, in ])laco of tin; o])en Polar sea, through which it was hojied they could nu'ke a siiort journey to Behring's Strait, an im])en- etrable line of ice. After their live months' eruist' the - Dorothea" sill JOHN FHANKLIN S LAST EXPEDITION. 81 i and the "Trent" returned iv Oeptford, Oet(.l)er 22, 1818. Admiral lieechey, who liad served with Franklui in the * Trent,"* has given a vivid account of the strong desire of Franklin to eontinue the eruise, even after the receipt of very serious injury to his ship. In the year following, he left (xravesend on a merchant ship of the Hudson Bay Company, for a land journey to the northern shores of Ameriv-a, which he was to ei:i)lore in co-operation with Parry, who was despatched, with two vessels, to Lancaster Sound. The whole north- ern coast at that date had been explored at but two isolated points, the moutljs of the Copiiermine and the McKenzie. Accompanied by Dr. Kiciiardson, Midshipmen Hood and Back, and a few Orkney men, he reached York Factory, from the city of New York, August 18, and thciire, l)y a journey of seven hundred miles, arriv.u at Fort Cumber- land in October, and wintered the lirst, year on the Saskatchewan, and the second on "the barren grounds"; in the following summer he s of tlu; northern coast-line, knif^hled luni in \X'2\K He also received tiie honorary degree of D.C.L. from tlie Cniversitv of Oxford, was awarded the great fiold medal from the Fieiich (Teographical Society, and was elected u n\ember of the Academy of Sciences, Paris. As governor of Tasmania, 188(5-43, he aecomplislied much for the ailvaneement of the colony, — among other benefits founding the K(tyal Society oi" Tasmania at Hobart-Town, the meetings of which were held in the (iovi'rnment-house. and the papers printed at his ex])ense. P)y a singular coincidence, among the Antarctic oxpcMlitions visiting the col- (i!iv he had occasion to welcome the " I-h'cbus " and "Terror," the shijis ■ ) V!: t 32 AMKUICAN EXPLOHATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. with wliifli his ov/n name was afteiwards to he so pathetically con» nected. FI5ANKLIN S LAST EXPEDITION. On his return to England, in 1844, he found the Admiralty exercised on the subject of a new Arctic expedition, proposed by the Hoyal Society at the instance of Sir John Barrow. He claimed the com- mand, and was appointed. On this occasion the first lord of the Admi- ralty had said to Sir Edward Parry, " I see that Franklin is sixty years of age; ouglit we to i^ermit him to go out?" to which Parry replied, "He is the ablest man I know, and if you do not send him he will certainly die of despair." Franklin himself said, when asked, " Can you not repose on the laurels won in such good service for your coun- try?" "My lord, I am but fifty-nine." "He appeared," says La Ro- (^uette, "as jealous of a few months of his age, when it was a question of exposure to great danger, or of executing a work of dithculty or suffering, as a woman would be of being thought older than the parisii register showed." The prestige of Arctic service, and of his brilliant experiences, brought around him a crowd of volunteers for the new exjjedition in search of the Northwest passage, and, supported by a body of olHcers conspicuous for talent and energy, and a crew largely chosen from the whaling service, he left England, in comnumd of the "Erebus" and "Terror," May 19, 1845. In his judgment, the solution of the problem of the passage was now to connect Parry's furthest westing of 113° 48' 22", made in 1819, either with liehring's Strait or southward with Simpson's Strait. Franklin's instructions were framed (in conjunction with Sir John Barrow, and upon his own suggestions) by the eminent explorers with whom liis former work had closely con- nected him. The experience of Parry made it evident that a fresh attempt to force ships through the heavy ice seen by him to the southwest of Melville Island would be futile, as has since been fully proved. On the other hand, Franklin's surveys of the north coast of America had long before satisfied him that a navigable passage existed along it, from the Fish River to Behring's Strait. Of the western entrance co Simpson's Strait he had been accustomed to say, "If I * ,-■■/ «^-= / "' ■m- \ 1 .1 ; \ ;; m II 32 •vviili ■«% ,S H I tiiv' ('i>ti« I; v~. t • ' I . »- X 1 ; . 'I .li. VV' t:r-' ■ ii l ■! 1.--1. t:'-.l i' >' u'.}' ("\ircif!o.(l - .• : i>\ t iti. K iv.il ■ ' • ' - ir -n! 'I?' {}!<> Ai. h "aiJ-y n;!''ii.'d. ,!.'■ i(.-i .-"' >' '.uit hf ^ :ii •!•■ . \vii'M> 1* \« ■,«, i {jiit-snii)' ' >>f ii W'-ck «(jr ^ ilii'Utiv «»! . .. rlU oUi'-r iL. :, lilt' i-aci^li :.:; ^•!«'«'. ii --i ; i' ill'- luiliivUit 'SUH! r.". i'jy tht.i jiin\- s* • t; «Mti!!i'n ;.;ie \-U. f, W lis 'iOVV i.' 111 1--1. , ivii; or •(• ii.iPI'Mj M^'liCr^tiOii.-. ) .1 .lusrl ' 1 „ ' ' ' : . 1 i - ». f \ '-n- • H i 6()° 13'. On that day "everything was going on well; ollicers and men busily shooting the birds — the auk?. — which sur- round(-d them, to a(hl to their provision stores, augmyiiting these by a full supply f(n' nearly two years." KELIEF EXPEDITIONS. Although no real public anxiety as to the fate of the vessels was felt in England for the two years following, preparations began to be made for the possible necessity of succoring the explorers ; and, time still passing without tidings, expedition after expedition was des- patched in quest, regardless of cost or hazard. Sir John's heroic wife taking in these such a part as to ennoble her name for all time. The UKLIKF EXI'ICIUTION.S. 36 I! I'i. AiJUMiciiii o\pl(»ratii)ns of Kiuii! and lliiil, which arc chtsely coiiiicL'ted with the ohjtict «»t" tht'so exjjcditioiis, are iiHiludod in thi; tollowiiijT tiihlea. The lines of search, and the cliiel h)calitie8 examined may be (raced on eircnm-pohir ma[> No. 1 (pocket). Tlie tables have been arranged to show that the search for Franklin was carried on by expe- ditions which, within aliont the same p(U'iods, visited the northern coasts, some from Hehrinji;"s Strait and sonn» from Mallin's Hay, snpi)le- nicnli'd by land explorations, chielly along the middle section of the continent. The i)rivate expeditions closed the search (Table IV.) by McClintock's voyage in the "Fox." iij ■i Table I. ENQLisa AND Ameuioan Exi'Knmoxs fok thk Ukmkf of Siu John Fkanklin, 1848-1859. FitOM tuk West Tinsouciii Heiikino's Stuait. Years. Vessels. ComiiiHiiilers. Line of Search and Coasts F.xuiDiiied. 1848-52 1848-49 1850-55 1851-52 185.3 185:5 18.53 1854 Plover Herald Enterprise . Investigator, ISniipli/ Shijis. Dieiialus Aniiiliitrite, Ivattlesnake, Diligence . Trincomalee, Coinnianiler Moore Captain Magnire . Captain Kellett Through Hchring'sStniit, beyond Point Harrt)vv. to lal. Tli'Sl', N. long. 1(>;P 4S' W., with a boat expedition from the ' Plover np tlu; Mackenzie River, and east to Cape Hathnrst; Mr. K. Sheddon in his yacht "Nancy Dawson" rendering assistance. Discovered Herald Island, and visited ' <^ and named a part of the land reported by Wrangcll. Captain CoUinsoii Commander McClure, Captain Wellesley Captain Frederick Commander Trolloiir. Lientenant Elliott Captain Houston . . Coivst of North A nierioa, from Bell ring's .Strait to Deasc Strait and coast of lianks' Land. Investigator abandoned Jinie :{, 18.V), in the Bay of Mercy, on the north coast of Hanks' Land. Commander McClure crossed on the ice to Dealy Island to the Hesolnte anil Intrepid, and returned across the Atlantic to England. Parliament gave 1*10,000 to him and Lis _ orticers. ^}] i 86 AMKUICAN KXI'LOUATIONS IN TMK ICK ZONES. Tahlk II. Fl{<)M TUK K.VST TIlKOliUI DAFI'-IN's HaY. Years. 1848-4'.» is4i )-:>(> IS.JO- lfe50-ul ) 850-51 Vessels. Eiiteri)rise . Investigator, Xortli Star . Suppli/ s/tip. L'y V aiiklin, Sopliia . . Kosoliite . . As.si.slaiice . Pioneer . Intrepid . . Advance. . Rescue . . I8:f2 1853 Assistance Hesohite . Pioneer . Intre()i(l . Nortli IStar ( '(iiiiiiiaiulors. Sir J. ('. IJoss . . . Captain Bin I . . . Master Sannders . . Captain Penny . . . Cai)tain Stewart . . Captain Anstin . . Captain Oniniaiiey . liientenant Osliorn . Licntenant Calor . . Lientenant Dellaven, Master GrilHn,U.8.X. Line of Search uud Cuusts Examined. ': Xorth and west coast of North .'^oiihm - [set; north sliores of IJarrow Strait and ' tlie sliores of Prince Itegent's Inlet. i Landed provisions on one of the Wol- I laston Islands. I Coasts of Cornwall is Island and shores of Wellington Channel. Sonth coasts of Parry Islands, and the l)assages between them, north, west, antl east coast of Prince of Wales Island to lon^'. Wy W., lat. Ti'-'X. ( First Grinnt'll exiiedit } Wellington Channel; disc ( Land. ion : shores of iscovered (Jrinneli Sir E. Uelcher . . [ Cai)tain Kellet . . liientenant Oshorn ! Lient. McClintocU Captain Pnllen Phenix . . Breailalbane, 1853-u.") Advance liSo4 1855 Phenix Talbot Release Arctic Cominand'r Inglefield Lieutenant Fawckner Dr. Kane, L'.S.N. Command' r Inglefield Commander Jenkins, Lientenant Ilartstene u.s.x. Lientenant ."imnis . r.s.x. Shores of Wellington Channel and the coasts of Melville and Prince Patrick Islands; the Assistance, I!esolu;e, and I'ioneer, and Intrepid ai)andoned Aug. 20, isr)4; the Pesolute picked ni> at sea. lat. (54-" 40', long. 01° 30'. Sept. II, IS")."), by Capt. James Bnddington, of New London. Conn., brought to the I'^nited States. andi)resented to England by joint resolution of United States Congress of Aug. L'S, 1S.")(); delivered to Queen Vic- toria by Couunaiuler Ilartstene, I'.S.N., Dec, 10, of the same year. Shores of Wellington Channel; landed stores at Cape Hiley; retiu'ned with part of McClure's connuand; LieiU. JJellot, of France, perished in the ice Aug. 17, 18.');5; the ship lost at Cape Riley Aug, LM, lS'>'-\. Second Crrinnell e:,pedition, Smith's Sound, lat, 82°27'N, Ketiuned to Ijigland from Hecchey I Island, with part of \?elclier's and Mc- Clure's command. Ships sent out for relief of Dr. Kane; ' found him on his return at Lievely or Godhaven, (ireenlaiul. KELIKF EXI'EDITIONS. Table III. Land Expeditions. 8T 1848-4i>- Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae searched the coasts of North America between the Maolvcnzie and tlie Coppermine Rivers. (Dr. Rae, under the Hndson Bay Company, in 1840-47 made a voyage of discovery from Fort Churchill to the Gulf of l}oothia, surveying the gulf to Fury and Hecla Strait on the east, and Lord Mayor's Uay of Sir James Ross on the west, determining there an isthmus.) 1S4!» — Dr. Rae reached Cape Krusenstern. lS4lt-51 — Lieut. W. J. S. PuUen from the Plover. (See Table No. I. for boat expedition.) IS.")! — Dr. Rae: coasts of Wollaston Island and east coast of Victoria Laud, to lat. 70^ N., long. 101-' \V. lS.")3-54 — Dr. Rae: coasts of Roothia Istlunus; obtained relics of Franklin's expedition. (Rewarded by vote of Parliament.) I>s5ii — J. Anderson and J. G. Stewart: west coast of Adelaide Peninsula. Table IV. PiuvATE Expeditions Organized under Subscriptions by Lady Fi!axki,in, Captain Ross, Lieutenants McClintock, Young, and others. Years. Vessels. Conuiianders. Line of Search and Coasts Exainhied. 1850-51 1850 1851-52 kS52 1857-59 Felix Mary Prince Albert Sir John Ross . . , Commander Phillips , Commander Forsyth, P-incp Albert ^apta^i" Kennedy, P.uice AlDcit Lieutenant Bellot , Isabel , Fox Command' r Inglefield, Captain McClintock A portion of Cornwallis Island. (Dr. E. A. Goodsir, brother of the surueon of the Erebus, in tho whaler Advice in 1849 also searched Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound. Found Barrow Strait and Prince Re- gent's Inlet blocked with ice; coasts of Prince of Wales Island and North Somerset. Shores of Prince Regent's Inlet and Bellot's Strait. Lientenam. Bellot of France was second in command. Westenholme, Whale. Smith's. Jones', and Lancaster Sound" and Baffin's Bay. (Captain Kennedy, in '*<'>3, sailed in the Isabel for Behring's Strait, voyage aban- doned at Valparaiso. ) Completed survey of North Somerset, Prince of Wales Island. Boothia, Felix Peninsula, and King William Land, finding many relicr- of Frai.klin's CApe- dition, and obtaining' at Point Victory the only record as yet discovered. This last expedition, under McClintock, brought from the cairn it Point Victory, on King William Land, a tin cylinder containing the record. !■« ,' ,ij . t: . ' I' 'it ' 'fir WK^ • !\*r "' '!' f:||l|| 88 AMEUlC^yS EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONKS. The finding of this paper ami the expedition itself, were the result of Lady Franklin's last effort to discover the fate of her husband. To this object slie dedicated all her available means, and, aided by sympathizing friends, had purchased and fitted out the "Fox," in Avhich McClintock sailed. The paper was found by Lieut. Hobson in a cairn twelve miles from Cape Herschel, and, with a large number of relics obtained at this and other points, it was deposited in the Museum of the United Service Institution, Whitehall Yard. Tlie discovery of this paper first definitely made known the fate of the party, — an issue generally apprehended in England from the time of Rae's discoveries in 1854, for the relics which in that year he had brought from the Eskimos were articles of personal property of (he HAKOMKTKIi OF FRANKLIN'S EXPEDITION. Fouiul by C. F. Hall, on King William Land, in 1869. oflficers, including Sir John Franklin's own star of the Order of Merit,, with the motto, ''Nee aspera terrent,'' G. R. IIL, MDCCCXV. Notices of the earlier relics discovered, traces of the missing ships^ and of the relics afterward recovered from the Eskimos by Hall and. Sohwatka, will api)ear in their proper places in the Narrative. It will be sufficient here to state the results of the expedition and the accred- ited aAvards. At the meetnig of the Royal Geographical Society of London, May 28, 1800, the president. Earl de Grey and Ripon. presenting the founder's gold medal to Lady Franklin, expressed the decision of the- Society in the words : " It is now demonstrated that the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror ' ascended Wellington Channel to the seventy-seventh degree of north latitude ; that the two ships were navigated round Cornwallis Land, which was thus proved to be an island; and that finally, steering from Beechy Island to the southwest, they were, on the 12th of Sep- tember, 1846, beset in the ice, in wlntli they Avintered, in latituue N. 70° 5', and longitude W. 98° 23', having reached a position never before or since attained by any other ship." Ig % FRANKLIN DISCOVERS THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE. 39 "In placing the 'Erebus' and 'Tenor,' in 1.^10, in this position, it is clear that the Franklin expedition, whoso commander, with others, liad previously ascertained the existence ol' a channel along the north I'oast of America, with which the tro2,en sea, wherein he was beset, had !t direct conuiiunication, had, in a geographical sense, firmly established the existence of a Northwest passage." At the same meeting the Patron's Medal was awarded to Captain (now Admiral) i'. L. McClintock, the President saying for the Society, "All the devotion of a Lady Franklin, and the efforts of the Bnfsh nation, might well have failed in unravelling the fate of the 'Erebus "and 'i error,' had not such a "ommander been selected for the 'Fox.'" A monument costing two thousand pounds, erected in Waterloo Place, London, bears the inscription : — FKANKLIX. To the Great Navig.ator and his brave Companions who sacrificed their lives completing the Discovery of The Northwest Passage, A.D. 1847-48. Erected by the unanimous vote of Parliament. This statue, voted by the nation, was unveiled in the jjrpsence of the first lord of the admiralty, Sir J. Packington, and of the distin- guihhed Arctic explorers and geographers, Collinson, Onrmaney, Srbine, Murchison, Osborn, and Kawlinson, Mr. John Barrow, Mr. Arrow- smith, and others, with Lady Franklin, who declared the likeness of her husband excellent and characteristic. He is represented as informing his officers and crew that the Northwest passage has been discovered. A panel represents Crozier reading the funeral service over Franklin in 1847. ■ i ^ ' ^flflf! > i.t.lf.:lsl , ,;, i,:, f^MH ' kli f Sf'flRHI m ill "i I *i 40 AMKIJK'AN EXPLORATIONS IN THK ICE ZONES. Ill 1875 a boautifiil iiioiiuiuont, ordered by Lady Franklin, who inispeeted it shortly hdorc her assing on thy happier voyage now 'I'owanl no Earthly I'ole." And (H)iu'luding witli tli(» words: — '• Erected by his widow, who, after long waiting, and sending many in search of him, herself departed to find him in the realms of life." The facts which these and other memorials eoiuinemorate being unknown, as has been said, until the year 1851), America heartily joiiu'd in the relief expedition of 1850, to which, in connection with subse- ({iient American explorations, this narrative now turns. CIIAPTHIl ir. TIIK (JUINNELL KXI'KDITIONS. — T.EVIVINC AFJCTIO EXl'LOHATION. — PWKSIDKNT TAYLOU's iMESSAiii-: TO '(L\(:H»:SS TI! ANS.M1TTIN(} (JOK- ItKSroNDENCK WITH LADY KUANKLIN. — RESOLUTION AUTHOUIZlN(! THE EXPEDITION AIM'KOVED MAY 5, IKA). — MR. GRl^NELLS MEMO- RIAL SUIM'ORTEI) IIY CLAY, SEWARD, AND PEAROE, IN THE SENATE. — OKEICERS OF THE FIRST EXPEDITION. — INSTRUCTIONS OF SECRETARY PRESTON TO DeHAVEN, WHO SAILS FROM NEW YORK MAY 22, isno. — DISPATCHES FROM ST. JOHNS AND THE WHALE-SHIP ISLANDS. — Di haven's report of THE (JRAYES FOUND AT BEECHEY ISLAND. — HE ARRIVES AT ORIFFITH ISLAND. — DRIFTS NORTHWARD. — GEO- ORAPHICAL DISCOVERIES.— EASTWARD INTO BAFFIN'S BAY. — FREED FROM THE ICE JUNE 10, IS")!. — A(JAIN KELFASED, AUG. 18. — SAILS FROM HOLSTEINBORG, SEPT. (5. — ARRIVES AT NEW YORK, SEPT. 30. TIIK records of the State and Navy Departments show that each of tliese voyages in search of Franklin is to be credited to the special and long-cheiished interest of Mr. Henry Grinnell, of New York, who, to the very last, entertained a hope of the safety of the missing navigators. I^ady Franklin, in two letters dated April 4 and December 11, 1849, respectively, had addressed President Taylor soliciting the aid of the United States (Government in the search. In the lirst letter she expressed her gratification at the respect and cour- tesy received on her visit to tlie United States three years previously, and esi)ecially at the interest which she had found to be felt in the enterprise in which Sir John was known to be engaged. Referring also in brief to the British expeditions sent out since the year 1847 in proof that her own (Tovernment "had not forgotten the duty to brave Mien sent on a pei'ilous service," Lady Franklin adverted to the fact tliat the Admiralty reward of twenty thousand pounds for any ellicient assistance had been offered too late for the British whalers, who had then already sailed. She therefore looked "with more hope to the 41 I n \ \ I\ 42 AMKIMCAN EXl'LOHATIONS IN THK ICK ZONES. whalers, both in the AtUintic and Pacific imencan wlialers, both in the Atlantic and I'acitic, as competitors for the prize, being well aware of their strength and bold spiiit of enter- prise." She added, " I venture to look even beyond these: I am not without hope that you will deem it not unworthy of a great and kin- dred nation to take up the cause of humanity which I plead, in a national spirit, and thus generously make it your own." Cherishing the hope that the Russian Government would send out exploring par- ties from the Asiatic side of Behring's Strait, she said : " It would be a noble spectacle to the world if three great nations, possessed of the widest empires on the face of the globe, were thus to unite their efforts in the truly Christian work of saving their perishing fellow-men from destruction." To tills letter the Secretary of State, Mr. Clayton, replied for the President, that the appeal was such as would strongly enlist the sym- patliy of the rulers and the people of all portions of the civilized world. "To the citizens of the United States, who share so largely in the emotions which agitate the public mind of your own country, the name of Sir John Franklin has been endeared by his heroic virtues and the sufferings and sacrifices which he has encountered for the benefit of mankind. The appeal of his wife and daughter, in their distress, has been borne across the waters, asking the assistance of a kindred people to save the brave men who embarked in his unfortunate expedition ; and the people of the United States, who have watched with the deepest interest that hazardous enterprise, will now respond to that appeal l)y the expression of their united wishes that every proper eflbrt may be made by this Government for the rescue of your husband and his companions. "To accomplish the objects you have in view, the attention of American navigators, and especially of our whalers, will be immedi- ately invoked. All the information in the possession of this Govern- mert, to enable them to aid in discovering the missing ships, relieving their crews, and restoring them to their families, shall be spread far and wide among our people ; and all that the Executive Government of the United States, in the exercise of its constitutional powers, can effect PRESIDENT TAYLOR S MESSACJK 4a effect to meet this requisition on American enterprise, skill, und bravery, will be promptly undertaken. "The hearts of the American people will be deeply touched h\ your eloquent address to their chief magistrate, and they will join with you in an earnest prayer to Him whose spirit is on the waters, that your husband and his companions may yet be restored to their country and their friends." In addition to the reward offered by the Admiralty, Lady Franklin Jiad herself offered the sum of three thousand pounds, or a proportion thereof, according to the services rendered, to such ship or ships as should afford effectual relief to any portion of the expedition. In her second letter of December 11, at which date Sir James Ross had returned without the discovery of even a trace of the expedition, she again appealed to the President for his recommendation of national assistance, with the plea that, " until the shores and seas of the frozen regions had been swept in all directions, or until some memorial should he found to attest their fate, neither England, who sent them out, noi- even America, on whose shores they had been launched in a cause which had interested the world for centuries, would deem the questinn at rest." January 22, 1850, President Taylor, in a message to Congress, transmitted the correspondence Avliich has been here named. The President said that he had anxiously sought the means of affording assistance, but was prevented from accomplishing the object in conse- ([uence of the want of vessels suitable to encounter the perils of a proper exploration, the lateness of the season, and the want of an appropriation. All he could do was to cause the advertisements of reward promulgated by the British Government, and the best informa- tion he could obtain as to the means of finding the lost sliips, to be widely circulated among American whalers and seafaring men. The propriety and expediency of an appropriation was submitted to Ci in- gress. A board appointed by the Secretary of the Navy had reported to him that no ships were ready for such an expedition or could be equipped in season, and that there seemed to be no constitutional power to authorize an equipment. Ill i 'If If ;:-J|' f' M I I !'• ' I i 44 A.MKltlCAN KXPLOliATlONS IN TIIL: ICK ZONKS. TIk! iiit'ssairo of the President, referred in the House to the Naval ( lilt fi the eh Hon. F. r nan of that eomniittee, Stanton, a favorable report in the form of a Joint Resolution, by which the President was authorized "to aecept and attach to the navy two vessels offered by iieniv (Jrinnell, Es(|., to be sent to the ^Vrctic Seas in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions," and to "detail from the navy such connnissioned and warrant-ollicers and seamen as may be necessary for said expedition, and who may be willing to engage in it. The said oflicers and men shall be furnished with suit- able rations for a period not exceeding three years, and shall have the ust' of such necessary instruments as the departments can provide. The said vessels, officers, and men shall be in all respects under the laws and regulations of the Navy of the United States until their return, when the vessels shall be delivered to Henry Grinnell. Pro- vided that the United States shall not be liable to any claim for com- pensiition in case of tlie loss, damage, deterioration, use, or risk of the vessels. The Resolution, reported April 25, was passed by the House on the following day, and by the Senate May 1 ; it was approved by the Presi- dent May o, 1850. Lady Fraidclin, on her visit to the United States, had been the guest of Mr. (xrinnell, whose interest in Arctic explorations had been first aroused by a letter from her to a citizen of New York, asking whether something could not be done in the United States towards the rescue, and had been increased by frequent letters subsequently received from her. In the early s})ring of 1856, assisted by the hearty good-will and personal labors of Lieutenant M. F. Maury, U.S.N., Suuerintendent of the then " National Observatory," he presented the following memorial to Congress : — " The interest felt in the fate of the Franklin expedition is not con- fined to tho country under whose flag it sailed. Commerce and science, not less than ])hilanthropic benevolence, are deeply interested in the efforts now making for the discovery of the missing navigators. While so deep and generous a sympathy pervades the civilized world on this 1 m lM?l! .^m IIKNIiY (iUINNKLL S MKMillMAL. 4/ •> d it g suliji't't, yciiii' iiu'iiioiiiilist t'ccls stron^lj dt'siroiis tlnit sonic cllnit he iiuide by his country to signalize its zeal in mwAi a cause. Kntcitaining ii confident helict' in tiu; safety of the expedition, and that tlu; gallant men who have so nobly risked their lives iii the cause of go;)grai)liieal science may yet be rescued and restoresent. "1 am very ninth afraid that the unfortunate person and his coni- ])iinions whose fate Mr. (ninnell and the world are so anxious to learn will be iound to be no more. J5ut if the enterprise should fail to dis- cover their existence, or even their fate, the attempt will be gratifying to the whole world: and if nothing whatever is discovered in respect of thein, useful discoveries may be made, which will add to the amount of information we ])ossess, and amply repa}'^ any expenditure that may be incurred by our granting the praj'er of the petitioner." To the objections made by Senators King and Foote, that it is inconsistent with the dignity of the Government to mix itself up thus with a private enterprise, and that it W(»uld be better for the United States to send out its own expedition, it was replied by Senators Mil- ler and Seward that, owing to the lateness of the season, this was not practicable, and that the vessels would become national vessels for the time in which they would be engaged, naval discipline being asked for by the memorialist as a necessity ; further, that all our enterprises are propcM" u|iinioii this (i( THK "ADVANCK" and TiriC ''ItKSClTK. 47 more «»r lc«s oaniod into execution, not by the direct action of the (Joveinnient, l)ut hy lending its aid and conntenanee to individuals, corporations, states, eoHej^c ., or r.niversities. To the objection raised by Senator .lelb-rson Davis, that it is im- proper to a[)propriate money for the purpose, of the (M'ror of wiiieh opituon he said he "couhl only l)e (ionvinced by its being shown that this (lovernment is not a corporation forvuil hy the Stat.en, with limited iiowcrs and lor speciiic jjurposes," no reply a|)pears to hav(; been made. Sailing ov tiik Kiust Expedition, May -J^, IHi'iO. On the I5th of May, 1850, Secretary Preston gavi' to Lieutenant Dcdiaven his instructions. The lieutenant, in expeiitation of the ]»assago of the resolution by Congress, had becm in New York for sev- eral weeks, and had been closely occn[)ied in fitting out the two shij)S olTered by Mr. Grinnell. 'i'he expedition consisted of the brigantines "AdvaiKie," 144 tons, and the "Kescue," of 91 tons burden. It was the opinion of experienced otlicers that vessels of about these; dimen- sions, drawing not above ten feet of water, would answer as well as larger shifjs the purpose of a careful search. They were ollicered as below: — ^''Advanec.'" Lieutenant Edward J. Del Liven, connnanding the expedition. Passed Midshipman William 11. Murdaugh, tirst ollicer Midshipman William J. Lovell, second ollieer. E. K. Kane, M.I)., passed assistant-surgeon. ■':U ^'^f \i 1 Acting Master Samuel P. Griflin, commanding. Passed Midshipman Robert 11. Carter, acting master and first officer. Boatswain, Henry Brooks, second ofHcer. Benjanun Vreeland, M.D., assistant-surgeon.* * Officers' Record. — E. .J. DoIIaven entered the navy as midshipman, Oct. 2, 1829; promoted to be passed midshipman, .July o, 1835; lieutenant, Sept. 8, 1841; retired, Feb. n, 18()1 ; died, May 1, 18(5r). Samuel P. (Jrirtin entered the service as midshipman, ! i. * IS AMKIMC AN r.\l'l,(ti;ATlnNS IN IIII, K i; /.uNKS. Liciil. Del l;i\('ii liml seen iifjiih l\\ciit\ vciiis' iia\ iii scrx i ('•' illK Ii.kI |i;issri| lliinl|n|i SdincI liiliu' of ii like ('\|M'li('M(t' willl tli;il srciiiiiiyl v iinw ImI'iiic liiiii when in ((UiiniaiKl ul' 1 lie '• l'"l\ iiii; l-'isli." one nl' ilu- vessels t>r tlie I iiiled Slat* (lit .r IS.'IS .S.'.S. Ill Hie •sseis HI (lie I iiiieii r^unes explurnin' cxiiedii inii ni Alitiiretie Oeeaii, iiiitler Lieiil. (liile Admiral) Wilkes. Ill the iiislruelioiis I'loiii the Na\\ J )e|»arhiieiil Inr llie ex|i(Mli(inii, Seei'etaiv I'reslun siiyLj'esleil as llie outline of its eomse tliat tlie sliips. alter |tassiiio' Haiiow's Straits, slimild ttini tlieii' atteiitii>ii northward to Welliiintoii Cjiaimel. and westward to Cape Walker, and should then he i;dverned hy eireiinistaiiees, - sailiiin" either in eonet-rl or sepa- lately. They were to enter and search every headland. |iromontory, and eons|iieiious |ioiii( for siyiis or records ol' the niissinii' party; hiil on no account was the safety of oHiceis or .sliijis to he ha/ar(h'd hy niiiiecessary exposure. Should laeuleiiant Dellaven lind it iini)ossilt|e to reaeli Mairows Straits, he was to turn his attention to Jones' aii*l Smith's Sounds; and if tliese weie found to he either closed or impeii- I'trahU'. and hi' sliouhl fail to secure any tiace of ihe uiissiui; expedi- tion, he must return to New York, as the season would prol>al)ly he llii'ii too far ;ii!vaiieed for any further attempt to he made. A like ]irovision for avoidiiii;' a second winter in the Arctic reiyitMis in- structed him tliat. if after eiitcriiiin' llie strait he should he iinahle to penetrate suiliciently far into the unexplored regions to oain a position from which operations could he fav(uahly couinu'nced in the season of ISal, he was ttt iMideavor t(» escape from the ii-e, and return. Si'iil. ',1. IS41: promoted to lu- lassod iniilsliipiiiiin. \\v^. UK 1S4T. William Miinlaiiiili iMittMVii tli(> scr\ it'o as luiilsliipmaii. Si'pt. '.'. IStl: promotoil to ln' passfii miil^liipiiian. Aui:. 10. 1S47: uiastor. Scpi. 14, is.-).'); iitniliMiant. Sept. 1(>, IS.V); n'siiiiiftl, April. IStil. William J. Lovoll tMitonMl the scrvico as miilsliipman, Nov. S, 1S47; pronioloil to ho passed midshipman. .Iiiiie. IS.").!: master. S(>pt. 1.'). IS.m; lieiUenaiit. Sept. 1(5, IS.'i.'); ro- si<;ned. May ;l. IS.V.). |{. ]{. Carler entered the serviee as midshipman. March :>(). 1>*4'J; promoted to he passed midshiimian, Ausi. 1."). 1S4S; master. Sept. 1"), 1S.">."); lieutenant. Sept. 10. 18")."); resiijiied. May. ISiil. Dr. E. K. Kane entered the service .is .issistant- .snrsxeon. .Inly 21. 1S4:); promoted to be jassed assistant-siirueon, Sept. 14, 1848; died in Ilav-ina. Feh. It!. 18,")". Dr. 1>. Vreeland ent<>red the serviee as assistant-surgeon. May 0. 18.")0: promoted to be passed assistaut-surgeon, Mareh ;!(). 18.")7; surgeon, April 'M, 18(il; died. Mareh 2(). 18(5(5. Til. I'Vaiikl every route t meet. lie hut no III vie\ the tlu ill whie lions ha lie possi dent to self in { the Will were ini facility. Dellavei should f cfleelual. At till way of e addition liie e.\p(M selves I)r Arctic se: hrio- witji heing eov iron e.xtei water-tigfl rit'r was e " Forw feet from sides, an e Icet, so an I»>;HAVKN H INMTKlMTInNS. Il» Tilt' rliicl" ((hjccl of llic rxjuMlitioii (lir st'iirt'li lor Sir .Inliti Kniiikliii n>(|iiirc(l diiit lor this lie slioiild use all (lili^cncc, and iii;ik(' rvt'ry exertion, nlVeriii^ iissistiinee, and eoniniiuiiciitin;.; Iiis plans and route to any llrilisli parties enj^fa;^tMl in a like search wIkuu he nii;^dit meet. lie was, h(»wev(>r, to pay attention to sulijeets (»!' sttiiMitilie intiuiry.. hut not. to allow such att(Mition to interfere with the main olijeet. In view of the I'aets elicited by Lieutenant Maury in supptut of the theory of a i'olynia, or "open sea," heyiuid th(( icy harrier, in which invest i<4;at ion liieutenant Dellaveii had shaicd, his instruc- tions had in view the hope of an eutran(u> into that basin. And shouhl he possibly |)enetiate beyond the barrier so far as to niakc! it more pru- dent to go on than to turn back, he was to push forward and put him- self in tu)mmunii'ation with any of the I'liifed Staters forites servinj^' in ilie waters of the l*a(;itic, o' in China. The ollicers there stationed weic instructed to be ri'ady, in such event, t<» cdlei' t(» him every facility. Notwithstaiuliu<^ his instru(!tions on these and otluu- points, Dcllaven was j)erniittod to depart from th( m, if on arrivinj;- out la; should tind that by so (U)in<^' his search wtudd probably l)e mo)»! effectual. At the Brooklyn navy-yard the cxj)odition received every aid in the \\;iy of e(|uii»ment usually furnished from special naval stores, and in addition Mr. (Jrinnell provicmingly inspired with the right s; i'it for the suc- cess I if the exjiedition. Otlicers and crews were volunt ers ; and it is to their lastinsj credit that the late Admiral Sherard Osborn, one of the most distinguished of Hritish Arctic navigators, should have been able to say, '"I was charmed to hear that before sailing, oflicers and men had signed a bond not to claim, under any circumstances, the .£20,000 reward A\hich the liritish government had offered. We, 1 am sorry to say, had acted differently." The "-Advance" reached St. Johns, Newfoundland, June 8, and DeHaven reported that the east winds and several giiles had occasioned slow progress ; he had not unwillingly parted with the " Kescue," whose slower sailing qualities had a(Mitionally detained him. The Whale-fish Islands were to be the rendezvous. Arriving at these on the 29th, he reported that on the east coast of Newfoundland many icebergs had been met, in striking against one of which, in lat. 49° 3', the '"Advance" had lost a jib- boom, ['"roni that date he had a cl(>ar sea within one hundred miles of ^4 ili(> isla i4)eig Fn)ni ic(4)eig hy the search ; Island, New V The in till' detail ii (lition. rach exj gular qv brief sk( Mlder, Horn lit ted fo ii will I :i degree cxercisin Seemi Ills sixte( \'irginia :nid, dur lessor U( range. universit ;it the I class in .'■j)ecial sii I)]-. Ki year saih niodore I under the the oppo] le 111 t. St es 10 w of ' 4 KANKS KAKLY LIKK 51 ilu^ islands; tliu "• Uoscue," by steering I'mllier east, had seen but tew icebergs. Kroni the ishmds, ollieers and men onee nioro sent home their letters liy the storeship of Commodore Austin's squadron there, out in the search ; their next and last were sent from Port I^eopold, Beechey Island, August liJ}, no furtiier opjjort unity ollering vnitil tludr return to New York, October 4, I80I. 'riut history of the expedition from the date of August 29 appears ill the report ol' the commander, made on his return, and more in (h'taii in Dr. Kane's narrative of the first United States (Jrinnell expe- dition. To Dr. Kane the world is indebted for the graphic history of i'-.u-h expedition, as well as for his brilliant services in both. His sin- gular qualilications for each calling iire best referred to in the following luief sketch, drawn chielly from his biography, written l)y Dr. William l'>]der, of Philadelphia. Born in Philadelphia, February 20, 1820, he early developed a frame litted for athletic exercises, but showed tendencies to disease which, ii will be seen, manifested themselves throughout his whole life to ;i degree which would have shut out from active dutv anv one not exercising the iron will exhibited. SetMuingly nnajipreciative of the value of systematic study until his sixteenth year, he then distinguished himself at the University of \'irginia by his pursuit of an elective course in the natural sciences, and, during tlie short period which his health })ermitted, aided Pro- lessor Rogers in his investigation of the geology of the Blue JNIountairi range. A long and severe illness caused him to withdraw from the university, but on his recovery he entered on the study of medicine at the University of Pennsylvai ia, graduating at the head of his class in his twentieth year, with the honor of having his theme, on a special subject in medicine, recpiested for publication by the Faculty. Di'. Kane entered the naval service July 21, 1843, and in the same yt'ar sailiul on board tlu^ United States frigate ' Brandywine,' Com niodor<^ Parker, as surgeon to the Ignited States embassy to China, luider the late Mr. Caleb ('nshing. Touching at Rio Janeiro, he had the opportunity of examining the geological eliaracter of the eastern 'Tlli Bh ■'■ff :' ,;|| ^'''': S ' Nliifl ^ m ^ ,1! i; :ii 1 i)'J AMKIMCAN KXI'I.OUATION.S IN rillO U'l') /OMvS. Andes, 1111(1 oil llu' iiniviil of llic ship iil I{oinl)iiy, of visiliiiy; fli(' tiiiiKuis cavciiH'tl l('m|»I('s ol" l"]lt'|>liiiiilii, aiiil (»!' crossini;' iUv (Jlianls wl Kiiiidiiliili, and cxplorinj;' the cave tcnijtlcs of Kaili, |»aHsin,i>' llicncc to ('('vion. lie I'tMnaincd in ('((nnccliou with (lie embassy until llie el(kse of i(s work bv the treaty of .Inly, 1SII, and thi>ii, [troeurinj^ a snhstitute, crossed to the riiili|)|)ines, traversed the island of liii/oii IVoiii Manilla to the I'aeilie eoast, and deseende(l (he voleaiut ol" Tael a feat Init onee before attempted by ,• I'oreiyner., and then without sneeess. l\\ this d(>seenl he subjeeied i imsell" tr. an ene(»nnter with (he natives, who eonsidenMl it a prolaiiii 'on. Alter three and a hall" ears' private |>raetiee as siirncdi at. W liampoa, on his recovery Iroiii the riet> fever, he sailed in .laniiary ISI."), for SinyapoiH*, and thence Irr Alexandria, visi(iii<;' some of (he wonders of l\«xyp(. He was si'ized widi the playiu*, on reeoveriny' from which he made a ri>s(orative foo* journey in (Jreece, and later exam- ined tlu' glaciers of tlu> Alps of Swit/.erland, to whi»'h ho afterward iiad occasion t(t maki> lii'(|uent references in his ici" theories of the Arc-lie reuioiis. In May l"ollowin«;- he was a^'ain on board slii|>, under (U'ders for the coast *d" Africa, «)ii which voyage - all hcMigli, when (he fever had broken out on board, he had wriKcii of his t;-oo(l lieaUli — he was stricken down, and S(>n( home invali.ted by Dr. Dillard, the siiro'con o\' the tlet^t. When i'onvali^si'(Mit. he was an early a,-i)licant for duty in Mexico. The war between (he rnited States and that, country had witnessed the snrrtMider o( (he capital. Or. Kane was selected by I'ri'sident l\)lk to b(> (lu> bi>ar(>r oi' an oral dispa(cli to tlu> riil-in-e.hiof, which had three times failed in its delivery from the War Department. He was oi'dered alsd to make sj)ecial iuv( sti<;"ations of facts relating' (o (he (leld and liospital organizations of the vVmerican army for the War Dejnirtment. Tlireadint? his '.vay throup;h the Mexican ciuintry, he reccMved a sever ' lance n'ound in an encounter with a party of Mexicans, frtuii the etVect o\' which he lav ill until Julv followini^ in IMiiladelphia. In common v OIUMOIJS rn in{. kank I'l'hniiiiv, 1M1!>, lie WHS iii;jiiii (»M iKiViil service on hoiiid llie Hloiesliip ■ Sii|)|)lv/' and retMi'iien hundred miles, and in iorty hours more our s(|Uadi'on was beyund lliemselves near Cape Farewell on the east, and I'^robishcu's M(da lucojjfiiita on the Atnericau side. The Arctic; days Ix'^an, (Ik; ther- mometer beiijo- read at ui^lit without a lantorn, and the sun settin*^' at leu, to rise again before two. On ihe 24th the sun did not |)ass behiw llu> horizon. 'I'he words ni ! i! ,,Ms^ I w 54 A.MEIMCAN KXPLOIIATIONS IN TIIIO ICK ZONKS. oHiccis and crew now found within thonisolves tiie power ol" Jidapta- tion to tlieir niiw (jircunistiinces ; without this power, light and dark- ness duriii°, longitude 00°, pushed on to Cajjc York, and on the 10th of August were in the North Water. Meet- ing soon afttsr Captain J'enny's ships, he re- solved to touch at Port Leopold with them. Here he met with an unexpected discovery. In his final report he says: "Ou the 25th of August, 1850, off Cape liiley, the 'Advance' was hove to, and a boat sent ashore to examine a cairn erected in a cons[)icuous position. It was found t(» contain a. record of II.B.M. ship 'Assistance,' d(!positc;d tlu; day before, con- taining th(! information that Captain Ommancy, R.N., had discovered traces of an encampment, and other indications of a (!amj)ing-ground of some civilized or hunting party. Fragments of ])ainted wood and preserved-meat cans were also picked up on tlut low ])oint of the Cape. Our speculations at once connected them with the object TMK f'UOW S NKKT rl f"i ■l.i p I r)»; AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. of our search. Cai)taiii Griffin, of the 'Rescue,' had shared in these discoveries." Of these traces Kane says, that although they were meagre indica- tions, the conciiisi<»n they led to was irresistible. Bird-bones and the ril) of a seal were found in a centre, around which a party seemed to liave sat eating, and with the tins were other relics, such as pieces -ol' a garment, and parts of a boat, a])parently collected for kindling wood. 1'iiese could not have been the work of Eskimos, and Pariy, the only European who before this had visited the Cape, had not encamped here. The indications were those of a land part}' from Franklin's s(|Uiidron. I)e Haven pressed onward along the eastern shore of Wellington riianncl. Passing Beechey Island, and running through a narrow lead, lie found the ice above Point Innes fixed and unbroken from shore to slioiv — generally eight feet thick, the sharp, angular hummocks rounded down by the iiction of the weather. Further progress to the north was out of the question. Returning to Point Innes for security until a favorable change should take place, he found himself, on the 27th, in com])any with two English commands — Sir Jt)hn Ross's and Penny's. ('aj)ttiin Penny, in company with Dr. Goodsir, brother of an assist- ant-surgeon on board the missing vessels, here reported that they had found, between Cape Spencer and Port Innes, scraps of newspapo'' of the date (»f 1844, with other paper fragments bearing the name of an officer, and other small articles of personal wear. Consulting with Ross and Penny, a joint search was tlien instituted along shore in all directions. In a short time one of Pennj^'s men reported the discovery or graves, and the conunanders, I)e Haven, Penny, and Piiillips, joined by a i)arty from the "Rescue,"" after a weary walk, found the three memorials which follow. They were painted headboards, with inscrip- ti( ns cut by the chisel: — " Sacrod to (ho memory of W. BUAINK, U.M., H.M.S. EuEBiis. Died, April 'l, 1840, iiged ;!2 years. 'Choose ye this day wliom yo will servo.' — Joshua eh. xxiv. 15. n ' i Th THE THIIEE (JUAVES. 67 " Sacred to tho menioiy of • JOJl.N IlAItTNKI.r,, A.B., of TT M.S. Ehkbl's, aged 23 years. ' Thus sailh the Lord, consider your ways.' — Hiiggai ii. 7. " Sacred to the memory of John Toi{Uin(jton. who departed this life, Jau'y 1, a.d. i84(>, on board of H.M. Ship Ti;i:Koit,* aged 2U years." TliL'st' sad ineiuorials, with ii serios of mounds lillod witli fragment- arv remains (some of them written astronomical and other notes), and especially rows of six hundred preserved-meat cans, ])roved be- yond dispute that the missing ships had made some stay heie. The cans liad been em[)tied, and tilled with limestone pebbles, probably to serve as baUast on boating expeditions. At Cai)e Kilev and Beechey, another cairn, found in a conspicuous position, was dug round in every direction, and between the hills, which come down towards Beechey Island, the sear(>hing parties of the "Rescue," and Mr. Murdaugh of tiie *'Advaiu-e," lound the tracks of a sledge clearly defined, and unmis- takable, both as to character and direction, pointing to the eastern shores of Wellington Sound. Additional proofs of Franklin having organized sledge parties were found in the tracK,-, of sledge runiiers it ■ M' * In 1858 Lieutenant McClintoclc piacfd ]u'iv n iii!irl)le tablet, wliicli liud been con- slructed in ISew York, under the direction of Mr. (iriiuicll, by request of Lady Franklin, ;nul which Captain llartstene, U.S.N., in 1S.")">. liad been xmable to take to this place. A small tablet is also to be found here, sent out by Mr. .Tohn IJarrow. in memory of Lieu- tenant Hellot. of Franci!, who went out as volnntecr in the English expedition of IBoo, and i>erished in the i(;o. Lady Franklin's monument rea Iiad 1 snows ot" live winters." These !'cw menu)rials ol" the n^ivigators, so h)ng h)st to history, v,'{ re all that told of them. Mot a written memorandum could be found. icen <'i!vered bv the ai'ter- or [xtinting eross, or even the vauuest in- timation ( f tl le THE THHEF GRAVES. intentions en- tertained by Franhiin Avhen ;;t this ])oint. His route was to be learned only from the explorations to be made at a much later date by McClintock. The world can never know anything of the written notices which, according to his instructions, Franklin was to deposit at this place. From the date of these most intorebting disoiveries DeIIav;n endeavored to push westward and northward, reaching ?^arlow's Inlet September 4, and passing tln-ough a lead along the south side of Corn wall is Island, where the English searching vessels were descried, fast in the ice. Tliis western lead, however, closing, he was also compelled to make fast, and the ice being exceedingly unfavorable for further progress, and the season far advanced, after consultation with the com- mander of the " Rescue," he decided that according to his instructions, as they "had not gained a jioint from which advantageorts operations •3 (. ■ ' U3 TirK sirri's im'.skt. 5f» could be coTmiinncod," it Avas an impenitivt' duty to cxtriciitc I lie shi|)s and return Ijomo. September 13, he signalled to the "Rescue" to cast off. Hut the return within that season was (luickly overruk'd \>\ I'oreos .itierly beyond control. iVl'ter leaving- their English friends, the two s!iii)S of JjieutciuP't Dellavcn were caught last in the new ice in the midst of Wellington Channel, and although the wind for a short sea- son bore from the north and east, the drift I)Cg;tn stcadilv .o set north- ward up the channel. Thr'>noli the whole ol' October and Novenii;c the changing winds dvit'ted ihem hel[)less to and fro, but nevcn* drove them out of the strait. From Decend)er 1, the (^astAvard drift bronght them by January 14 into Ratlin's liay. Here tla^ ice around the ves- sels soon became again cemented and lixed, but the ships kept di-iving scmthward along with the whole mass until the close of the iirst week in June. Cut out as usual with saws, axes, and crowbars, and with the rudders again shipped, they then forced their way into an open, clear sea in latitude (')5° ^50' ; and the "Advance " a second time cast anchor at Disco on the 17th of Jidy; tlu; "Rescue." which had more tlian once suffered severely, coming in next day. From Disco the ships touched again at Proven and Tpernavik. Alternately closed in, and then with hard labor released, they fimdly left Holsteinborg for New York September 6, 1851. The commander, referring to the instructions, which enjoi led him not to spend, if it could be avoided, more than one winter in the Arctic regions, had of necessity resolved to give up the search, "with sad hearts that our labors had served to throw so little light upon it." His re])orts and Kane's narrative dilate at large on the traces of Franklin which have been described, and upon their disappointments at two later dates, at each of which the hope of renewed efforts had lingered The first of these was at the beginning of the wintvT of 1850-51, when they found they were not fixed, as they had hoped w '^e, in a position from which operations could be carried on by travelling par- ties in the spring : " the slups were fast being set out of the region of search." The remaining disai)pcintinent was at the close of August of the second year, when the ships stood again to the northwest in the *i5l 1 i/'i 1 .t;;.UiJl, m AMKUICAN KXI'LOHATIONS IN TIIK ICK ZONEH. illliid Sen, hut flic h'iid \)vi\ til at the disti iince oi a lew iiiik's, iiiid the ice iijipi'ariii;^' as unlavuruble us ever, they did not deem it prudciil ttt run llic risk of hcin^ af;'aiu beset, anit and (iriniiell Liind will be found laid down. When the .\merican cx|)edition had found itself at Murdaugh Islet, near Cornwallis Ishmd, a wide channel a])i)eared before them, leading to the westward, the frost smoke hanging over which seemed to indi- cate a large area (»f open water in that direction, and the signs of animal life w'ere abundant. To the channel appearing to lead into this su])posed sea Didlavcn gave the name of "Maury," in remendjrance of the investigations on the theory of "an open ]»olar sea," to which the instructions of the Seca-etary had referred him as having shared at the Observatory. The conjectures made by the expedition that Fraidvlin had passed u]) this channel were afterwards eonlirmed ; his return through it, and southward drift, added nothing in favor of the theory. ("O.MMKNDATION ()F TMK SKCIIKTAIIY. 61 It hud been ai. lulditionul (li.siippoiutiiUMit to Dcnuvcii and his utliccis that, after sij^ht of the westward channel and its indications, he was debarred from pressing forward in the direction in whicli lie hciii'vcd the greatest chances for success in the search existed, and also fnnn entering within the in^'sterions basin. Tlie Secrf?tary of the Navy, in his report of Novendx-r -H. 1H,">1. said : — "Tlic exi)edition nnder l-rientcnant-Coninianding Dclliiven to tiic Arctic seas, in search of the liritish commander, Sir .John Fianklin, and his companions, retnriuMl to the [)ort of New Voi'k in October, having discovered only supposed traces of the objects of which it was in (piest, and leaving in entire uncertainty their actnal fate. The vessels of the exitedition proceeded in the direction where, in the oi)inion of the best-informed ofiKcers, the missing navigators are to be songht. and (tn which the traces in (pu-stion were fonnd. Thongh failing in the main object of their search, Lieutenant DeHaven and his ollicers veri- fied by their explorations many facts before unknown to science, l)iit indicated in the course of investigations carried on at the Naval Obser- vatory, concerning the winds and currents, and to which reference w;is made in instructions for the expedition. " In this expedition tlie officers and men were all volunteers ; in its prosecution they encountered the greatest dangers and hardships. To mention a single example : their vessel was caught l)y the ice and frozen up in the open sea, in which perilous situation they were con- fined for nine months, and drifted to and fro in the ice for more than a thousand miles. By the skill of the officers, and the mercy of a sui)erintending Providence, they were released from their imprison- ment, and restored to their country and friends, not a man having been lost in the expedition. They have received no other pay than would have been due on a cruise to Naples or the Levant, and I would respectfully suggest that they be allowed the same pay and bniol- uments that Avere granted to those in like positions in the last ex[)edi- tion to the South seas. "Mr. Henry Grinnell, the owner of the vessels employed by l^ieu- tenant DeHaven, has generously offered them for another cruise in ■'.• ;i i - ' I 1 il ■41 1 63 AMEUiCAN KXri.oUATIONS IN TIIK ICK ZONKS. i searcli ol" Sir John Franklin, slionid Coni^rcss tliink i)r()p{!r to order a sccdiid ('XptMlilidn." No condensation can be jnstly nnido ol" the graphic notices jonrnal- i/.cd by Kane «»f (he natural features ol' tlie Arctic zone, its icebergs, iiunnnocks, and Hoes, and especially its glaciers; of the beautiful dis- plays of refraction and tli«' auroras; or of th(! fauna and llora exam- ined. 'I'lic I'ornis of the glacier and berg, in their fantastic varieties d .tly hi to h ami swilt translormations ami disappearance, ire([uentiy orougnt to ins ndnd uu-mories of the objects visited with such pleasure in the Old VVoild. Tliis will aj)pear by a single extract: — '•July o, 11 i'.M. A strip of horizon, commencing about 8° to the east of the sun, and between it and the land, resend)led an extended l>lain, covered with the dcbrin of ruined cities. No effort of imagina- tion ^as necessary for me to travel from the true watery horizon to the false one of refraction above it, and there to see huge structures lining an aerial ociean margin. Some of rusty, Egyptian, rubbish-cloggetl projjyla, and hyptethral courts; some tapering and columnar, like Pal- myra, IJaalbec ; some with architrave and ])ortico, like Telmessus or Athens, or else vague and grotto-like, such as dreamy memories recalled of Ellora and Carli. " I can hardly realize it as I write ; but it was no trick of fancy. The things were there half fin hotu" ago. I saw them, capricious, ver- satile, full of forms, but bright and delinite as the phases of sober life. And as my eyes ran round upon the marvellous and varying scene, every one of these well-remembered cities rose before me, built up by some suggestive feature c f the ice. "An iceberg is one of God's own binldings. preaching its lessons of humility to the miniature structures of man. Its material, one colossal Pentelicus ; its mass the representative of power in repose ; its distribution sinudating every architectural type. It makes one smile at those classical remnants which our own period reproduces in its Madeleines, Walhallas, and Girard Colleges, like university poems in the dead languages. Still, we can compare them with the iceberg ; for the same standard measures both, as it does Chimborazo and the hill of Howth. But this thing of refraction is supernatural through- out. piiantah down, \ obelisk^ idler an (liiplica •VV could n t'iintasti analysis laded 1 tliey rea Miy men (bleed, t The ;ibove hi :ill sense instance ".leannei of Lieut. so many lay in ob; value in i No oc to interf( and thes( of 1851, ' the crews control Iv cal office and the e tion was i down wii painful; 1 AIM'TIC PMAXTASMAdOKIA. G8 it lit. The wildest I'mlic <•!' an ()i>iiiiii-('iitt'i''s rovory is nothing- to the pljiinliisiiiiigoria ol" tin; sky lo-iii^lit. Kaniaks df icr, timit'd u[)si(U' down, were rcistiiig iijion the rainbow-colored pedestals; great needles, (.l)(lisks of i>ure whiteness, sliot U[) above their false horizons, and, alU'f an honr-glass-like contraction at thi'ir point of union with their dn|)licated images, lost themselves in the bine of the upper sky. "While I was looking — the sextant useless in my hands, for 1 enuld not think of angles — a blurred and wavy change canie over the fantastic picture. Prismatic tintings, too vague to admit of dioptric analysis, began to margin my architectural marbles, and the si'ene faded like out; of FresneTs dissolving views. Suddenly, by a flash, they reappeared in full beauty; and, just as I was beginning to note in my memorandum-book the changes which this brief interval liad [)ro- duced, thev went out entirelv, anil left a nearlv clear h(»rizon." fVllHi! I 'IMie dis[)lay of such weird and ever-changing scenery mi the arch above him, happily for the time being, takes from the Arctic explorer all sense of even the extreme peril in which he is placed. A noted instance of this will be found in the experience of the ollicers of the ".leannette," as cited in Chapter X. of this volume. In the case especially of Lieut. Chipp, it is some little consolation to remember, that during so many hours of the fearful imprisonment of the ship, his othcial duty lay in observations of phenomena attractive and elevating, and of high value in scientilic ini^uiry. No occupation, however, in which Dr. Kane engaged, was permitted to interfere with his services as medical officer to the ex])edition, and these were called into most active requisition during the winter of 1851, when the dreaded scurvy assailed every officer and many of the crews. His commander reported that every case was kept un'i^^r;;^ir- Hi E. K. KANE, M.D., SURGEON OF THE FIRST GRINNELL EXPEDITION; COMMANDER OF THE SECOND. Author of "The U. S. Grinnell Expedition under DeHaven," 1850-52; of " Arctic Explorations," 185;i-a5. Assistant Surgeon in tlio Naval service, July 21, 1843; promoted to be Passed Assistant Sur- geon, Sept. 14, 1848; Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society of London and of the Sooi6t6 de Gtio- graphio of Paris. Died at Havana, Feb. 15, 1857. ISi ciiAPrKP. iir. THE SECOND (;i;IN\Kl.L EXl'KDI I'lOX (Is;,;) .V,). T1IF> EXPEDITION DESKJNEl) UY KANE -(^ONTRinUTOIia. I'Al'Ell UEAl) liEEOllE THE GE()(il!Al'HlCAL .SOCIETY OF NEW YOKK. — ASSISTANCE MY TIIESECIJETAKY OFTIIE NAVY. — OFFICERS OF THE '^VI)V'AN(M}.'' — FISKEltXAES. — Ci;osSlN(; .AHCIA^ll.LE i!AY. — THE "ADVANCE" :M001;i;1» TO AN lCEI!Ei;, DEl'OTS FOK SIMMNC EXPLOltATlOXS. — THE OUSEK VATOIJY. — DAUA' SHIl'-MFK. — 1\I01;T()\"s ItEl'OKTED rOEAU SEA. — THEHKK! FIXED IN THE HE. — ATTEMl'T TO ItEACH I'.EECHEY ISLAND. LEAVE FOIL THE Sol Til ; TIIEIU KEITKN. NINE (»! THE CO.MI'ANY SCIKVY AI!AXI)ONi:i). - r.oAT AXD SLi;D(ii: .lOCKNlA SocrilWAIM). Till". P.UIC — KEsrii; OF KANE I!Y CAI'TAIN HAKI'STENE AT DISCO. Ai:i;ivAL .\\: new YoiMv. — i;ei'oi;ts to the department, ii'M>r.\i;Y OF i;i:srLTs. — APPKECIATIOX P.Y THE IHM'I'ISH ( loVEPX.M ENT, PrP.I.K'ATloNS ol.' THE XAPUATIVE. — KANES FAILINC HEALTH. — UEQCEST oF ADY EliANKLIX TO Hl>[ TO INDEKTAKE A NEW EXPEDPnON. HI': SAILS Eoii EX(iLAND. — i:Fyri'";x voyace DEA'ML FUXEKAL IIONOKS HAVANA. Nl'AV 0I:LI:ANS, CINCINNATI, COUMIUS. P.ALTI.MolM': ND PHILADELPHIA. KANES KELIClors CONFIDENCE T nVS 1 1 1'i second Auicricnn expedition in search (»!" the losl navii;.ii is to he credited eliielly to Dr. Kane. It was iiuuh' under the auspices ot" the Navy l)ei»artinent. the Snntlisonian Instil iilion, the (Joog'raphical Society of Neu" "\"ork. and the American Philosophi- cal Society; with contributions from a nundicr ol' otlier scientilic asso- ciations and iViends ol" science, cjiielly in lloston. Nc\\- \'(irk. and I'liil- aih'lphia. Vrofessors Henry and IJache, and liieiitenant Maui\' aijain remh'red el'licieiit aid. Mr. ( Jrinnell phiced the " Ad\ aiicc "' at Ivane's disposal, inakinn' i'nrther contrihntioiis in money and sii|)plies, and Mr. I'cahody. of London. |iaid (h»\vii the sum of ten thousand (h)llars. Kane Jiiniself freely coutriluited I'rom his ])rivate means and from the ])rnceeds of Ins lectures. v:' !■■ i m A>rERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THK WK ZONKS. I 1* For inoiitlis after his icluni with Dt'llavcii hit had ofcupied himself in iiiatuiinj^ the sclieuie ot" a reiit'Avod (>l'lurt to resiuie the missing partly or at least to solve the mystery ol' their fate. "'The object of my jonrney," he sai' an nnreached North shall divert me from this one conscientious aim." He could not realize that some of the party n;i vessels cannot have been suddenly destroyed, or. a( least, so destroyed that provisions and stores I'ould not liave been esUcblislied in a safe and convenient dei)ot. With this view, which all my experience of ice sustains, conies ihe collateral (question as to the safety of the documents of the expedition. "If the natives renched the seat of the missing ships (jf Franklin, and lhei(> became i)ossesstMl. by pilfer or by barter, of the articdes sent home by Kae and Anderson, this very fact would i'.\])lain the ability of Lome of the i>arty to sustain life among them. If, on the other hand, the natives have never reached the ships, or the seat of their stores, and the relics were obtained from the deserted boat, then the central stores or ships are unmolested, and some may have been able, by these and the hunt, even yet to sustain life." At the meeting of the Geographical Society of I'^ew York, De- cembei 14, 1852, he read a })ai)er developing his plan of search. If presented the inducements of term lirma as the basis of operations, — ;i due northern line to lead soonest to the open ;jea, animal life to sustain DIt. KANE S PLANS. ()7 tviivellins' parties, aiul the co-opomtiou of llie Kskinios. He believed ill the [ji'i)bul)le extension of the laud masses of (Jrreenlaiid to the liiv North; that its liij;hest protruding- headland would he most likely to afford some traees of the lost party; an(i that the approximation of the meridians would make the aeeess from the ])oint reaehed to the West as easy as from Wellington Channel, and access to the East far more easy. The Northern point he hoped to attain would be two hundred and twenty miles north of IJeechey Ishind, and seventy miles iKcth of the liighest tiien reaehed in Wellington Channel, lie would pass u[) lialhn's l>ay to this most northern [loiiit. and then press on towards the i*olc as far as boats or sledges /ould carry a select party of not iiioii' than twenty — " a jjicked crew." In support of his belief of the I'xteiision of (ireenland to the far North, Kane adduced, among other arguments, the analogy between its iieneral contour ami that of the Southern Peninstdas of the worhl, specially in reference to their inward concave bend on the Western side — toward the interior. He made a strong point of the increasing elevation of the Greenland jicaks from South to North. 'Hie basis of his belief in the existence ol' an Open Polar Sea. as conlirnuMl bv this second exjiedition, will receive subsequent attention in this volume. The lectures excited much interest. At Washington, the oflicers of the (lovernment had listened with close attention, some of the Senators cniiimitting themselves to tlu' snpi)oit of a P>ill for an appropriation for the voyage. Put although Congress did not fail to a]i]ireciate the results oi' the lirst expedition. — [iroviding, by an Act of the latei date of August -51, the pay of tleet-surgeon for its senior medical officer, with that of the next higher rank to others, ami additions to tlie comixuisa- tion of warrant and petty olhcers and t'rew, — no a[)propriation was made for this expedition. Despairing of receiving aid from Congress. Kane unfolded his plans to Secretary Kennedy, to Avliom he had b(>en si)ecially commended by the Chief of tho Smithsonian and the Superintendents of the Coast Survey and the Observatory, as possessing peculiar qualitii-s and varied sources of knowledge fitting him for the Exploration. The Navy Department promptly encouraged him. The Secretary did not hesitate 1 ,■ ^jTTTrv; i ■ ■ i ' i ^ if'' ' m '■'■m lii i!l:i" I ; J . . * 1 I' ^ > 1 I :> 1 I ■ ii! (58 A.Mi:i;i("AN KXI'LOItATIONS IN TlIK UK Z«)M:s. i(t Siiy thai lie would assist with cnciv means aiillinri/.cd ; hriiinint;' ilic r\|i('(liliou iiihIci' the (-(iiitrol uT tiic ( i(i\ I'rmiiciit li\ iilariiit;- iiiii siifcial duty lo L'oiiducl it iindiT the dircctioii nl' liic I fcpai'tiiiciil. Ilu (li'taili'd for liiiii ten men from tin- Naval S eixiee. on their usual |iay am I rati d a J Kins, and luiuished sonu' nautu'al instruments, maiis. and ehar ami a Jew [irovisions. In ills brief orders of Novemher liT. 1S.")i\ and l-'ehruarv 1». ISo:;. tlie Si'eretarv referred to the solieilalion of Lady I*'ranklin that Kane should undertake the Ivxpedilioii : and, plaeiuL;' him on sj)e<'ial dut\ for •• till' conduct of an o\erlaiid journey !Vom the upper waters of Uafliirs I'»ay to the shon's of (he I'olai' Seas." invited his attenliiui to Scientilie in(|uiry, particularly lo (he existence of an open sea, and to the suh- jeets of teri'estrial u)aL;iietisiii. i^'ciicral mcliMWolouy. and natural liistorv. Xo specilic instructions, usual on ihe deparlure of Na\al expeditions, were ofleu d. 'I'he Secretary added. •• l(el\ iui;' on ycuir /.eal and dis- cretion, till' Dejiartmenl sinds yoi; f(Utli (Ui an undi'rlakiuL;- which will lie allci (led with n'rcal p>rii ;iid exposure: trusting that \du will he sustaine I li\- the laudalile oh iccl Hi view, and wishuii;' \(iii success and a sale rcliiiu ill \dur Iriciids. ^fay :')(). Is.*)."'), ihe ".\d\ance" left New ^'ork on her second cruise, haviiiu' on hoard seventeen persiuis. Dr. I. I, Hayes, of New York. was the siu-'eon. August Sdulat;'. its aslr. mer. and Henry Urooks, of ihe^hrsl Mxpediiiou, second in couunaml : of the seamen. William .Morion also Iiad heeii wiih DidlaM'ii and Ivane. The e(iuipment of ihe Iiiil;' cuusisted ol' iinle more than a. (|uaiitiiyof ront^'h hoards for housing;' ihe vessel in winlci'. some ti'iils of india-rnhhcr and ean\as, :"i'l several carefully Imilt sledj^'es. Kane had some two thousand [louiids of j.cmmicaii and a liheral supply of dried fruits and vcn'ctaliles. wilh the Usual iia\\ ralioiis: a well-chosen lil)rary. furinshed jiai'tlv 1)\- <'"\ I'l iiiiK'iil and pailly liy .Mr. (iriniiell: a moderate wardrobe of woollens: and a nuudier of articK's tor barter. At St. Johns. New- foundland, lie made his purchase of fresh beef, to I)e uuirled and liuno- in the rio-rrinn-, and received from (JoNcnior Hamilton a noble team of Newfoundland doL;s. ,Iidy 1, he entered the liurbur uf Fiskornacs, too I :,' MANS IIKNDIMK. »;!» I.ilc ill llic S(';iS(Mi to n))(iiiii llic iVcsli stores iicctlrd for llic l^xpcdit ion, lull scciiriiiL;- l;cic the services of lliiiis ( 'liristiaii (or I lemlrik ), llien ^ ■ I'l'ii ' 111'.' ti m- a ill ,j'";!: VI I; lit ■iiiiii •Miil ■■■< -4 01^ fililtlii ^!i!!;' '•■■I ]<<\\\'mf'''- ''■' I '1 jl:':|li Si! il'll:,' 'H' v^'!'' I'll:'" I-::;:;: - f I ;i l)oy of nineteen. ('X|)ert with tlie kiiyalc and javelin. He proved so uset'iil an assistant as to lead to liis I'liture eiiii'a^'einenls l>y Hayes, Hall, ;iiid ('aiitaiii Xares, oi' tlie l'liiii,iisli I'-xpedilion of iSTo. Ileaeliini;' Melville llav on llu' liTtli. Ivane round the shore ices so deeaNcd. that '!"(! 1 m I S^^^^^K^-*" I 1 I . I (0 AMI'.KK'AN I'An.oi: \ nt"\:> IN I'lll', III', /nSIIS. lie tliti not ilcciii il ;i(l\ isiiMc Id ;itu'iii|il tli('iisii;il |>;issii<;'r iilniii;' I lu" I'iisl 11 (»t'S l« r llic land. ImiI sliM>il din'cllv lo tlir Xurl liw ard and Eastward, iiiilil ln> met llif nmldli' |iarl\. Ilcic lie ln'adcd iifarlx dirccl Inr ('ii|it' Yoik. ilnl\ ■_*•.•, Icaiiii'^a lifscl incni. lie ilrcidcd Id lastcn In an iccliciL;. and JlI'ltT tM! .•lit 1 KHirs w ariimi;'. hca v !M!i ind planliiii; icr-ant'linrs, sncccct Ird in t'lVt'i'liiii;' it: luil lie had hardly a lircalhiiin'-spcll hd'orc he was startlod bv a scl of lond narklin!'' -iiuinds aliiMc. w hih' small iVaivincnt ■ u'c not lanrc tl lan !>(•;. in to (dt t lie \ .ili'i, n kr I he lir.st drops of a snni.ncr sho' r!;t' indications wni' loo plain : he had liarch tinn" lo cast oft ocl. iii;- ;»t ■> of tlir hfin' Icll in ruins, (•rasliinij like ai ! illci \ . ()iillii' :'> Ki. w Jicii ,oh 'lorcd to a st'cond Ihmj;', t he roii- tiniit'tl ice lucssinc !ii'L;,in to alVt'cl it. and il loidv np its niarch lo ilic sonlli. riic IuIl;' was sccnird to a niiirli laiL;'!'!' one, llw conisf ot wliirli was slcadiU iioiihward. the loose ice drillinu hy on each side. It'a\ini;' a wake ol hhuk water lor a mile heliind the ship. At 10 I'.M.. luing in innnediate danmr. she a^aiii u'ot oil' in a lead to the northeast. jMisliint;' o\ ei' in spile ol" t he di ill iii<,;lrash. "The niidnin'li! sun came out over the northern eresi of the L;real Ixml;', kimllitit;' varionsly- I'olortMl tires on e\ crx part ol' its siiilaee. and making' the ie(> aronnd ono i^real respleiideiiev ol u'emwork, hl.i/ini;' eai'lmneles. and i nhies. and molten u'old." 'l"hronLi'li all this jewelry i he hriu \\t'iit erniiehiiiL;'. anil, alter a torluiuis progress of li\t> nules. arrested here and there hy tont;nes which riMpiired i he saw and tlu> ici'-ehisels. titled hcrseli" neatly in Itelwceii twii lloes. lie siui ceded in crossinu' the l>a\ in ten days. Aui^iist 7. tlu> " \d\anee"" reached the headlami ol' Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, and passt^l heyond the liiLi'hest point naiiu'd hy Captain Inu'hMield. K.N. Still too I'ar to the Sonili to carry on his proposed stMitli. Kani> now attempted tlu' penetration oi" a drirtini;' jiaid; which met him. selectinu' tirst a provision (h'pot. and depositing" in il stune supplies ami his lire-boat. On tlu> western cape t^\' Littleton Island he buill his tirst cairn. wedu'inL;' a stalV into the rock I'ri'vices. on which he sjifcad the Anu'ricau llau". and phiiinu' also near by a beacon, ol'tieial ilosjiatihes. and privalt' letters o( larewi'll. Knlcring' the juuk. the ••Ad\auci'"" I'ouml the ice hugging the Amoiican shuro. ami oxtcmling across the chainu'l. Debai'voil tVom liu' »;i III IMONSMKI, \i;i! II MMlOlt 71 Nnrllicni |»iiss;iH(. nil Ili;it siilr, iil'ln ii lriii|iMr;ny iisy hiiii in ;i I;iimI- Idclvi'd liiiv, wliicli '.n iiiiiiKMl IJcrii^ff lliirltur, rciiiiii^f Icsl, Mm- rjipidly iiilviiiicini^ r »l(l ii;ij^lii j)i(!V('iil rmllicr iM-ncliiilinj^, Kiiiir wiiipcil uiil ,111(1 jiffiiii; iiia.lc I'iisl (o iiii icci \^. Ilcic tlic drill iiiLf piick niiisidc \v;is ill first iillfi! iiiipciiclrjililc ; iii;iiiy Imtj^s \vt re di'iriii^' liiickwai'd iiiid Idiwiirtl willi llic lidfs, ;,ii(|, prcssiiiu; on the ice (d" llm does, hud raised ii|) hills '"(K , sixly (o .scvciily Ict'l. lii,L;li. Iluviii;^' net ;iltciii;ili\ c ImiI cither to a Iviiiicc nr discoiit iiiiic the scarcdi, rclyiii;^' ii|hiii Ihr sticiij^tli id' his slii|), and tli(> spirit and lid(dily id' his (Miiiii'adcs, he di'lci'iiiiicd ii' p(issii)h> ((> pri'ss lliiinii;li the small iiilrrspacc hctuccii ||i<' main park and thcruasl, an tdl'ort attcndcij with a. scrirs 'he scvrrrst ixpcriciii'cs. Whriicvcr the riMcdiii^^- tides hdl didieient lo , lini^s, the ship was oil her beam ends; twice it was iiii|((issi's, l,» ..( , when she leaehed lalililde 7S" !•'>', she had lost part (d' her sla-lmaid liiilwarks, ;i (|:iarter hoal, her jil)-ltooiii, hest howcr aneh n', and . ' .indred ratli(»ms (it liaAVS(>i' Iml was liersell' in all essentials nninjnred. Winter was now rapidly advaneini;, the rapid rninialiiiii id' yoiinn' ice maliit he was nnwillinn' to lose adearly pnridiased proo-ress, and lie ri'iiiove cduld \t^> seen on I lie visit to lii'Jissalacr Ilarhoi' In Dr. Hayes, Dfcrinhcr, I Slid. ScptciiiltiT S, Dr. Hayes, Mr. Wilson, and Hans were sent inland, eliielly lo delennine liow far a sn|i|ily of i;aine ini^lil l»e lio[)ed for. 'llii: party, on the t'nnitli day oi' a lahorioiis IraNcl. descended into a a river llieii nearly dry. They speiil llie (let |i, hroad \ alley, t h e lied (i| jii!4'hl in their hiiiralo-skins on the rocks. ('arr\iii!4' ea<'li on Ids slionl- ders a weight of alioiil thirty pounds, in eontiniiaiiee of Iheir journev llie\' elainhered at tir^l o\ er idcKs fidiii which I he snow had disajipt'iiri'ij, hill soon eiiiered on a iiioic eiili\ cniii;.;' jirospecL of heds cd' groeu moss idid tiiri'. I'atejies ol' androineda ^a\c 1 Iieni Ihmc and lliere a earjiet, and riirnished I'liel I'or l heir cook ini;'. No evidences (d' life, liowever, Were seen exccjit some th dinar siiiall herns ot iciiKJeer. a so Al li itar\ I'alihit, and Ih e looimarKs oi a Ion. .\i liie emi oi a |oiiriiey ol ninety miles iiieir pro^'rt'ss wa^ arrested h\ a glacier I'oiir hundred feet hii;li, e\leiidin<;' to tlu' North and West a>. far as iliee\(' coiilil I'each. It Mas midnii-'lit when iliey approached it. Iml the sun was a lew deL;'rees oiiK' heiiealh till' hori/on : stars ol' the sccoik' inaj;nit iide \\ ere dindy visible in the North: and a hrilliaiil meteor, fallinn' jnst in ad\iuiee ol' the travellers, H'leatly hei^hlciHMl the err('ct hy its reilected riL;lit on this wall (d' ]mre whiteness. Aloni;' the hase ol' the L^laeier was a snowbank lilt \ to six' \' I'eet in lieiL^ht, I'isini;- at an angle (d" tliirty dejjfrees ; this was ascended, hut the smooth iee-surl'aee hal'lled all attempts to reach the summit ot" the glacier, which rose to an elevation of one hundred and sixty feet, rounding gradually off as it approacdi(Ml the ^f(')• iff (Ihtce above. With all his dexteritv llaiis faik'd to secure an\ '''ame. Dr. Kane's next step was to organize parties hu- establishing pro- Ai.^ioii depot.s to facilitate researches in the Sj)ring. The signs of intense cold were hastening; by Se])tember 1') the tliermometer had fallen to 14°, the floes aronnd the brig were cenieiited. and an iceberg iiad been fi-ozen in, to l)e the (>ompanion of the party dui'ing their whole stay; the birds, even the sea-sw^allows. had all gone South. The ])rovisions brought out had not ineludi'il liermetically sealed moats, and there seemed little ground of exploding game; the salted TIIK OMSKItVATOltY 7.'{ |.ri'\ isimis w cii' iln'icfoi'r |iiil iiiidcr ii iiinccss dl" IVcslicniiiin" l)y iillcr- n.iii' siiiikiii};' and IVi'c/iiin' iiinK'i- tlic ice-crust of ;i I'lcsli-WiitiT piuid. Till' sled I'm- the liist depAt ]iiii'tv, wliieli was under Mc(J;irv and IJonsall, Mas ninilelle<| tVoui niic recei\fd iVnni the Uritisli Adniiraltv, mid measured thirteen feel i>\ I'nur. It readily carried I'uurteeii hun- dred pounds. The ciir^o, exclusive oiu'c failed lo haji a clia>ni. he met them 111! their return, safe tliou^^h nearly i\hau>lcd. .Meanwhile, on one of the islets in IJenss: laer Ilarhor. an .\stro- iiondcal ()hser\atory had been raised of four walls of granite l)loidin]ia> A tid (' icuistcr was on Itoaru Hie 1 ' n H: ;|.| 1. n\is. Tlic value (if tlie wnik pn InriiMMl under elicunistances of sueli intens«' cold and sufti'ihif^ was appreciated, after the itturu of tlie I'Xpedition, by the SiuitliHoiiiau Institution, tlic '•Catalogue and Index** of wliose pul)ii('ations. issued in ISSi'. n'ives, on pa^c '■]■], "I'liysical Ohservatituis in the Arctic Seas, l»y I^lisliu Kcni Kane. Made duriiit;' the Sccontl (irinuell I^xjx'dition in search of Sir .l(diii Franklin, in lH');J, I8r)4, and l8o'), at V^in Rensselaer Harbor and oiIk r p(»ints()ii tlu* West Coast of Greenland. Ueduced and discussed l>y ('has. A. Schott. Part I. — Masruetisin. II. — Mi'teoroloo-v. III. — Astrouoniv. IV. — • Tich-s (\os. '.(T"-, 104^'-, l-JSi""-, 1;'.0'""), 1?^5!m;0. 4to, pp. 840. 17 wood- cuts, 1 map, ' W. 'riic ishmd on which the observatory was ))laccd was scune fifty ]iaccs bmt;' l)y perhajts forty broad, "^riie highest point of the island was iibout thirty feet above the mean tide-level of the harbor." « November 7th, darkness came on with insidious steadiness: the thermometer at mxuiday oidy could l)e read without a lii^'lit ; tiic black masses of tlie hills, with their glaiing patclies of snow, were still visible. The stars of the sixth mau'uitude shone out at noon(hiv ; the moon, now at her greatest northern declination, swept round the heavens, at the lowest partof lier curve 14" above the hori/(Ui. In the briu'. a mean temperature was kept at 60° below deck: above, under the housing, it was as liigh as the freezing [loiut. AViiiti'r was fully upon tliom. TJie party began to realize their situation. They found it difficult to keep up a cheery tone. Mncu Hans was sorely homesick " until his G SKVKIti: KXl'KUIKNCKS. - |s:,4-:). I') i; tal^ia was treated lirsl by a dose ul' salts, and socoiidly li\ pr(»iiin- iiuu." Ill' had bundled mi his elollies and threatened a !L^<)()(1-1)\ e, " hut >iMiii bt;eanie as ha[»[iy as a tat man ()Uas too small i"oi' an extended syst(un ol' (ipeiations : th.i' only hope oL' continuing th" search was to he ton ml in a passage through or (»ver the ice-li(Ods to the north. Alarcii 1 7, Kane was anxiously waiting to send out his iiist advance ])arty. The tliernioniett'r outside stood at 1<)^ hut from the deck ol' tlu; "Advance"" he saw the promise oi' milder weather. To the northward all the bright glare of sunset streamed out in long hands of orange through the vapors of the ice-l'oot, and the IVost-smoke exhaled in wreaths like those which one sees curiing iVoi-f the house-ehinnieys as he comes down a nutuntain side inlii a \alh'y. ( )n the third day following, the depot party started (lui. lint the heavy gale frou'. the north-novHieast overtook them, their tli'iiiKMiii'ier fell to — oT", and when hmnd hy a rescue j/arty under Kane they were at the ])oint of entire exhaustion, luiving heen wilhmit sleep ciulii \-iiiie (UU cf eighty-four lionrs.. 'l"wo of the men. Haker and Schuheit. (Iie(l net l"i)g after their return to the hrig : all save one sulTcred with temporarily im])aired minds. As sddu as the health of his coni])any justified it, Kane I'enewed his attempts hy three exjit'dit imis : in April and Ahiy under his own gtnd- anee, in -Iinie under Dr. Hayes, and in Juue-Jidy under .Morton, aceiMnpanied hy Hans. The lirsl of t lu'se exphirat ions Avas along the hase of the great glacier i^^uing I'roni the coast nf (JreeuUind in Kat. 7U^ — a glacier I'cvisited anil surveyed theyear Inllowing. l>ut the scurvy painfully reapjieared, the snow deepeiiei\tli day liciween it il a cliapne met with a llic laud s npcning to tern were i iiLnllciuoke; Io sea. Nc geese made plain, show .Morton saw auotlu ishinds; th ii'ieil in vai Very high c ■ll lis (l- '(l ■id If ,IS MUliToN S "orEN SEA. 77 I'.ill wen- found desti'()3-od by the bear. Three <•!' the jiarty were over- ciiiiu' i>y ouow-bliudiiess, and Kaiie liiinselL' was carried l)a('k to (lie Ijiml;', w Ik re ho lay ill with seiirvy and typhoid i'ever, unable to walU iiiitil .liliiclt. I'lif loeatinii ol" the entire imrllierii t'oast line was still a blank: llic tiu'iiddlilt' had made Ibr Iheiii the discovery lluiL it Lrendt'd eastward. Dr. Hayes renewed an attempt for its exploration. Leaving the brig. May '2i\ lie jiressed on, in conipuny with William ( iodlVey, on a due ninth line, but, eiieoniitering the S(juee7.ed iees. soon worked to the iiistward, following iin extremely tortnoiis ciPiirse of not more than iiiiicty miles in a diri'ct line, but of ai^tual ti'avi ! two hmidrcil and sf\cnty. The wIioU' ti'avel of twelve days was one ol' not less than luiir luindred miles. Th(> new eoast line adni to sea. N(!ver had the birds been seen so numer' us. A lloek of brcnl geese made ;i eiu've out to seaward, and then Hew far ahead i vcr tin- I'hiin. showing that their deslinatioii was inland. Ab)rton walked over the hnniiiioekt'd ice on the shallow bay. and ^.IW another opening, not ([nitt' eight miles across, separating two ishnids; the open passages were lil'let'ii miles or more in width, lie iiii'il in vain to pass entirely round this cape, inu' c(;;dd he ascend the vcr\ high cliffs more than a. few hundred feet. IJut at that hciulil he i\ ■ 1 I I : I! :' • i ! ,^,:| 78 AMKItlCAN K.\I'L(»I;AT1()NS IN THE K'lO ZONKS. hislciii'd t(i lii^ w iilkiiii^-pnlc tlir i\;\'j; wliicli liad accdiiiiiiiiiictl ( 'oiiiiiiodort! Wilkes on llic Aiilaict ic Ivxpcdil ion nl' |,S;;S— llJ, and Dcllavi'ii in tJic lirst (irinncll l">\|H'diii(in. Ltiokinn' oiil u|)()n tlio j^rcat washi ol' wah'is bidoic liiiii, ••not a speck ( )l lee ((lUld he seen. 1' I'oni a. Ikml •lit ol 4iS0 led, \\ liieli eoninianded a horizon of almost I'oity miles, Ids ears were i^laddencMl with the novel mnsic of dashim;' waxes; and a, suif l)reakin<>' in amonii' I lie rocks at his feet sta\cd his I'lirilier i)ro<''ress. This eheerinL;' news conlirmed at the time all the arn'iinu'nts which Ivane w 'or had i'evolve(l in the \>;]>l. in ravoi'of an open Tolar Sea. It was, ho e\('r, the last achicNcmcnl which 1 he Iv\pediiion could secure the season ol' Ai'clic travel had now endcil. and the sunnner wa> earini;' on, hut the ice did not break u\ \\ I. as was exiieclcd anxious th hclorc she could n'el hall-way through the pack, even d" warping' to the S(Uilh sliouhl l)cL;in at the earliest inomeiil possible. \r{ the parly were eonrcssedly ill-llll'd for another Arilic season, haxin^' neither health. I'ucl. n(U' pidvisions. On the other hand, to abandon the vessel si'ciimmI to be inexpedient if not impracticable, as i( would invoKc the necessity ol' carryinn' sick-ami n(>w ly amputated men. -lUie-haU' of ihe company beini;' disabled. Kane thouulit he could not descil the brii;' while t here was a chance »d' saving' her. An exploring' iourn(\\ oi' sixty unles conlirmed his belief thai he (U)uhl not escape in o|ien boats, and he delernuned to makt> an (d'fort to communicate with Immm'Iu'v Island, and the I^nu'lish s(puulrou tluMc uiidei' Sir Mdwanl I»elcher. Settinn'out on the \-\\\ of July, willi live volunleei's, he I'ound the pack solid from Jones' to JNlurchisou's Sounds, and tlu> ice still inxcsiiuL;' the American shore sonu' twenty nules i'roiii < 'a|ic Isabella. After several attempts to bore, and an iitproaeh within ten miles to Cape I'airy, the idiances o( further success utterly failed. Xo ('(Uirs(> was left but to return to the bri^', and look forward to a second winti'r. In Kane's journ;''. .Vie^iist IS. he writes: " ]1\h ho7'ri/>L' — yes, that is the wcu'd to look forward to another year of disease and darkness to be met without iVesh food and without fuel. I should niGC t it, \Mth a more Icmpt'ied sadness il" I iiad no eomra(K's to tliinl for and lar^^e sig of (h.sasti and I'ale. lookinn- ( llic w oi'd A pyi'air placed t h ruck, a j_: II, lines (d' ix'cn mad ('111 ire des Vet .-■, searcliino' lit the Sol ])roiiiole(I iieilliei' rii duty of III the later iiiiuht, he any, he (hi a st'cond \ mined esc, to Ihem I'll I'oi'cgo the pei'iuissioii of (he roll siirviN'iu's 1 with thcu'r clastic step left beiiiui nil -.1. ;i hi use ,.1.1 Ilk TIIK CRISIS, AIJOUST, 1854. 79 iiir iiiid [>i'ol(H;t." ilc (lutennincd to pluci^ on Obscrvaltnv Isliind a l;n',u(! sig'iiiil hciicon or caini. l)mviii;;' under il ddcniiicids wliicli, in ciisu (if (lisastor lo the |>ariy, Avonld coiiNcy iiiicllii^cncc ol' tlKjir prococidint^s iiimI liiic. lilt' ln'iicon was erected on a eidl', npoii a l)roa(l faco of rock 1(11 ikiiij;' out upon the icy arty then ])rej)ait'd themselves i'or the possibility of (■III ii'C desliiiet ion. ^'cl .- >me of lliein, incliidinj^' Petersen, who had been out, in the sc;ircliiii;4' expedition with ("aptaiii I'eiiny. now belie\ cil that an (!sea|)0 lo the South was still practicable, and that the safely of all would b(> ])romole(l by withdi'awal iVom the bii<4'. To detach ai:y, Kanc! thoUL^'ht iirilher liohl, in itself, nor practically safe; porsonaily, it was a "simple duty of honor to remain by Hie bri_n' "' lill he had pro\cd the (diect of 1lie latiM' tiiles; and alter that it would be too late. IWit. couk! wdiat iiiiiiht, he would share her fortunes. "N'et, v :,d(! he would not (hdach ;iiiy, he did not think he had the moral lin'ht to (haaiii any throu«4ii a second winter. lie madt^ a linal ins|)ectioii of the ice, attain didcr- mincd escape to be impossible, and t hen, callini;' all hands and explain ir,n> lo them I'lilJx I ludr t I'ue eondit ioh, St reiiuously ad\ised that they should torego the poject of ret uriiiiiL;' Soul h, Init addid t hat he would f reedy give |it>rmission to any who were di'siriuis to make the attempt. At tluicall (l wjlji th(dr portion of the resoiu'ces, the (M^ht otliers moved oiT witli elastic ste|), under the leadership of Dr. Hayes, leaviujj^ the littb; number left behind to the pressure of the thoughts of the wauing eflieieucy of i!ir ! I Ai ! w^ 80 A.MEIMCAN KXI'LOIIATIONS IN Till: ICK ZONKS. all, the iiii[ii'ii(liiii;' cold, dark iiiL;lil nl' w inter, ilicii- pdviMiy of rcsoiiiccs and tlu' dreary si'iise of eoiiiplele is(tlatioii. Dr. Hayes, ill his " Arctic! lioat .lounioy," puhlislied in ls71. jirescnh tlie I'ollowinu' iiceount ol" tlioir sepiiralioii, with liis reasons for leaving the bnu' The ice in the centre of tlu! channel had hrokeii iiii, an had drilled down into Force Hay. Ksca[)e for the I) ri!4- was liojiele S I ted. VAtU II' could not he liberatect. iMtlier ot two courses was now ojien to lis, — to leinain by the hv'v^ and try in her the chances of a second winter, or to si'ck safety in our Ixials to the South." "That everythiiiL!,' ])ossilile luul been done towards the attainiuent ol' the objects of the cruise, \\'as not doubted by any oflicer or man of the brig's coni|iaiiy ; and certainly t he cliaractei' of the coniiiiander niii^'hl itself ha\(' been r<'lied upon by tlieiu as a suflicient t;'uaraiilee of the liopidi'ssness of I'uliire elforts when he had renounced them as fruitless. The (|Ueslioii wassinijily when we should set out lioincward — whether we should pa^s ilie winter in the \cs.sel and start for Tpei'mivik in the SpriuL;'. or m,d!' his ol'licial anlliorily to deterniiiu' the choii-e of time for our seliinn' out. . . . "•In addition to ; he nioii\ cs which inllucnceil the ri'solul ion ol' others, tiiere were sonic which had pei uliar relation to myself as medical olli- (■(''• of the l)rii;'. To remain in her duriiiL;' the coniiiiL!,' winter, a'.d thus ..t-ee 'oL'' Hi( ,' so lar^'e a number of jiersons as the entire company, in (|iiarle',- ' straitened, subjected to tli(> worst causi-s of disease, withoul the m. t i'.-^ Ml''. il means eit .er of prevention or cure, would. I fell .i.-siro '■ iMi|)\eii the bri^' i.sU) a mere hospital, where the most depress- ing ,nll ; iiee.-i must be e iji'eudered. Orij^'iually prt'|)ared for only a ' single w luindred must bn ill quail mainly vatiiig S( to be fa leave th vK'ut nui Those re Kane, wi disease ^ should J) miinerou (tf that ]i ill the S "Itw ill boats 1 had prev which aw after the ward,, it 1 to trausjii in Septeii which ori selaer Ba "The ])ect of a him to th the jiack and woul esca'pe to a (lueslioj ''On f experieiic !l|P| I Till-: SKPAUATION, AlKJUST, 1854. 81 single winter, wo had now completely exhausted our fuel, except seven hundred and hlty tons of coal, after the consumption of which we must break up the ship ; and our remaining provisions, although ample ill quantity for the 'jntire company through the wintei', consisted mainly of salted meat, which, from its effect in producing and aggra- vating scurvy, as shown by the lust winter's sad experience, threatened to be fatal to men in our condition. If one-half the company should hsive the vess(^l to try the southward joiiiuey there would be a sul'ii- cicnt number (»f men in each party to form a complete cgiinizatioii. '['h()S(! remaining with the vessel would have th(^ })rofessional skill of Dr. Kane, with augmented means of health and comfort; and tlu; cause ol" disease would hv ])roi)ortionally diminished. If the travelling party should perish by the way, the deaths would probably not be mcn-e nimierous than if all should continue together; and whatever the fat(^ of that ]iarty, the persons at this brig would l)e in improved condition in the S])ring. "It was reniembi'ivd by all ol' us that to make a Southward Journey in boats to U})eriiavik, rather than io liazard a second winter in the i(;e, had previously been re{)eatedly discussed, as among tlu; alternatives which awaited us ; and it was a subject long familiar to all of us. If. after the com))letion of the Spring work, the season should \)v. l)ack- ward, it had been regarded as one of oui' recognized means of safety, to transport boats and provisions over the ice to open m 'r, and early in Se[)tend)er to push southward. This was one of t which originally inlluenced J)r. Kane in favoi- of w sclaer JJay. "The failure of his late expedition to lieechey Isl; ])('ct of an early winter (for the young ice was m him to the conclusion which he announced to his oflicers, namely, that the pack in the; North Water which had bal'Hed him we ild still remain, and wouM interpose an insurmountable barrier to any attempt to escape to the South. T]iis„however. he submitted to our judgmei'ts as a (jiu'sliou u[)on which (>ach of us was now calliMl to H.''ik for himself. ''On the other liand. it was believed by Mr. Petersen, whose long experience of the movements of Arctic ice entitled his opinion to insiderations ing in Keiis- ;, and the pros- ig rapidly), led '% "! 1 I M i I il . L i» I 82 AMKIMCAN KXI'LOIIATIONS IN Till': ICK ZONliS. '/J r great rc^i'tct, tliat this Xortli Water 'pack' had never previoush' been (ihscrNcd; tliat it was iiicri'ly accidental ; and tluit such Avas the raj)i(Hiv of ice ninNcnients, we had excry I'eason to bcdieve that it woiihl entirely disaj)|iear \\ithin two wi'eks. ^Vgain : if a party shunhl isneceeii :ii the attempt to reach IJperiiavik (tlie distanee to whieh was not _L;i'ealei' than that to JJeeehey Ishiiid), tliey \\()uhl there pass the winter, and heint;' directly in the line (d' the lial'lin Ba}' ■\vhalers. (which j^o annually within from one hundred to one hundred and iii'ty miles of Smith Strait), they could n'ive inl'ormation ol' the condition ol the "Advance,' and by means ol' either one ol" tintse whalers, or of one of the small sloo[)s known to Ix; at the J)anish settlements, communica- tion could be opened to Keusselaer Harbor." The narrowed eom]»aiuonsliip of the eom])any reinaiiiiiig on the brio- seems to lia\c aionst'd all 'heir remaining energies in ])roviding i'or their daily necessities, with tlie cherished hoix' of better things still in store. The niontiis of St'[i(eml)er, ()cte:!>er, and November were idled with the occupations of taking care of tlie ship, and securing for food the bear and the warns; the luuneious Arctic hares fed the few doQ's which were left. Ivane himself found the rats as an article of diet less invitinu; but also less hurtful to health than the liver of tlu' bear. They were too numei'ous to ];ernnt anything to be stowed below (h^cks, (h'st]'o\ii)'i' even the men s beddin<>' in the forecastle. At one time in this dark [)eriod Morton and Hans tracked the Eskimos to l^tah, bringing l»ack two hundred ami seventy ponndii of walrus-meat and a coui)le of foxes. A party from that settlement liad pre\iously maile a visit to the brig, committing a inimber of acts of theft; but the stolen goods had l)een recovereih tlu- thieves punished, and a treaty binding thelnnuits that they would not henceforth steal, uiurid bring fresh meat, sell of lend their (higs, and show where game conld be I'onnd. was now ratitied, by the Kabdn-nahs, witli the ])rouiise thai they AN'onld not visit the Eskimos with any hurt or luiscdiief, would make them welcome aboard shij). trade with thein, and make Ihem presents. December 8, Bonsall and Petersen, two of those wlio luul left the hrig more t mI' the EsK iviurned li lliree huiid \<\v more th liies who ; dirierent se I iiciiisidves luity-two d( (■Miiiinnmis mocks in g( Within el' those ini started to 1 The I'eiiiain jeiii'ney in t w as moic th ice. i>y Se| ;nid l>al'lin"s liKire coiufoi I he \\diale-b( away for ( '; dead calm. Were oil ilu lliem on eve lirm and sec l>ay. (\im]i visited by so ii|) their alxK until their r The whol Dicnt that tl h'oiii the ves I'arry. an Ei* li\fd almost DK. IIAVKS KKTIUNS. 88 •j; inoro tluiii three luoutlis l)efore, were brought l)aek on {\w. sledge the I'^^kiiaos, and on tlie I'Jth Dr. Haves also eaiiie in. I{ih'\ had K tiinied live days after li'aviii il l/r. llav es |iarl\- liad l()Uriie\(M lire e hundred and litlv nules, with llie llu'rnionieler at ■>u' ll\ lie. r,ir iiioie than two months on fro/en seal and walriis-nieat. The l^ski- iims wlio aeeomjtanied theiu on the return l.ad heen engaged i'roni (linerent settlenieiils on the way, exei'pt the voluntecu'S who added liiciiiselves as they neareil the hrig, till tliey numbered six drivers and luit v-two dogs. The wdiole party of natives took a sound sleep and ii iiiii linuous feed on tlie "Advanec," and passed off through the hum- limek^ m s and forks. Within a verv few davs after leavincr the brin" th e courage ot some (if those under Dr. Hayes had steadily waned, a seeond man liaving st.irled to return, and a third eoming very near to a like decision. The I'cmaining eight ])ersons attempted to continue their Southward iiirne\' in two boats liiit before reaehinfr Littli!^"'- Island everv lead w le more than once closed, and the boats and c I'agged over the ire. \>y September G seve.>ty-tive miles liad been made in eleven days, iattiirs l^ay 0])eneries, ( 'eitaiiily, that which in the outset he liiid set before him as the prime object of the expiMlitioM -the rescue of Krankliii — had been taken out of his con- trol : and it was iiid'oit uiiately triK! that he had no second vessel on which in an emergency tit fall back for supplies, those of the original oi>t(it liKi having been, as will be remeinberi'd. very scanty. The history of tlii.s expedition strikingly conhrms the judgment of Secretary Preston in his instructions to the hm ships of the lirst exixMlition to avoid, if |)()ssible, a second winter in the ice. On the other hand, the suffei'ings and forced return to the ship by the party under Dr. Hayes would seem tu strengthen Kane's judgment, that if all the rest had accomjianied him tliev couUl not hav(i reached I'pernavik lieforci the winter of 1855. As the year closed, Kane made one more necessary sled journey in the iiope of collecting walrus beef, chieny for McGary and Ibooks, who stunned rapidly sinking. 'I'he only diet for the trip was some meat liiscuit, with a few rats cho])ped up and frozen into tallow balls. Thcchigs W(!re fed on tlieir dead brothers, one of them dying in the very act of eat- ing ; six of the eight soon l)ecame useless. Both Kane and Petersen were near losing their lives in a hut of refuge, and as a forced necessity to save the dogs and themselves, th»\y returned to the brig on foot, driving the dogs before them. Their walk of forty-lour miles in sixteen hours, -almost stMidding before the gale," closed their year 1854. The events which filled the remaining time of the expedition, the n I :i ^ m I'll HC A.Mi:i!i('A\ i;\i'r,(>i:.\'n(»Ns in i'iik H'l: /omcs. rt'st of the Winter iiiid llic Spriii^^' iind Sniniiicr iiiontlis iihlil tlic i-flicf ol' tiic |i;iily liy ( iiiiliiiii I liiitstcnc, S('|ilriiilirr II. \S.'\.'), were of llic most s()iiil>r(! cliiiriiotcr ; tli(.' (vw reliefs in tlie of raw walrus, not exceeding' four ounces in weight for each man per diem/' He set out to get help from the lower Msl^imo settlement, but again tlie doj^'s faile(l him, one of the four falling into frightful convul- sions. Hans, adventurous and buoyant as he usually was. cried like a child, and Kane, sick and worn-out, found his own ('(pianinutv at fault. A renewed attempt under Petersen met with a like failure. A KELii:F sun* I' IM) VI DIM). At the homes of the explorers in the Tnited States, when the second Winter set in without bringing home the ••Advance"' and her crew, the most serious alarm for their fate had been felt by iheir friends. The ordinary apprehension of danger in Arctic service was increased by the experience of the Winter which had passed, and the deficiencies of the outfit for a second season in the ice were remembered. Congress was memorialized by the societies which had encouraged the undertak- ing, and the general sentiment of the people pressed upon their Repre- sentatives for a Relief Expedition in the coming Spring. A Joint Resolution of Congress, api)roved Fclu'uary 3, 1855, authorized the Secretary of the Navy "to provide and despatch a suitable naval or other steamer, and, if necessary, a tender, to the Arctic Seas for the rescue or relief of Passed Assistant Surgeon E. K. Kane, U.S.N., and the officers and men under his connuand." This was followed, March 3. by an appropriation of one hundred and fifty thousaiul dollars for the object named in the Resolution. The bark " Release," of Boston, and ii |:'-!'"''Wfr 4 ) 1 t \ i i ,1 I I ! I ^v*^.. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) .^\^ 1.0 I.I I4£|2j8 |Z5 |50 ■^~ III^IB ut Uii 12.2 us ■ 40 k. ^ |i.25|U |,.6 1 ^ _ 6" » Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716)872-4S03 ^ :\ \ 5* ;\ ► «^ m ilic |)r(»|) Jlllcd iili' llciirv fl ;issi<]fii('(l. adiilitcd SL'lt'Ctctl llie Miiich li >'ii hoard (IdU'd on tliroiitjfli iiv Kaiu; Eskimos, had just ii'diU'cd The « liiiudred Haves, tl wt'oks. With t'liitlier si out of si: to kill 11 tlicir ass survey tli l)ut couU advance. When was at 1 I'reparati crew wit complete Kane an SUUVCY OF THK (UIHAT GLACIEU. Xi "lie |)r(tp('ll('r •• Arctio," of IMiil;i(l('l[)lii;i, wi-ic prDciiriMl, and I'spcfuiliy jiiic(l and eiiuipficd lor the service under the sn[»er\ i>ii»n of l^ieiiti-iiant llenrv J. Ilartstene, t(» wlwini tlie Cdnuiiand td' (he expeilitiou was assiii'ncMl. Full rations and extra :)rttvisi()ns Tor two vears, with clothinij' adajtted to an Arctic; climate, were provided, ami otlii(.'rs and men selected by the CommancU'r were delailc. The Eskimos of Ktah faithfnlly assisted the party throughout the wliolf of this heavy transport over the ice uj) to the margin of the Hoe, (III reat-hiiig which the boats were transported over eighty-one miles of uiil)r()ken ice; the party had walked three hundred and sixteen miles ill thirty-one days. F'rom that point the next ten miles was run in one day under sail, when they were again forced to make alternate move- ments over ice and water. They had perpetual daylight, but halted regularly at bedtime and for meals. On the lower part of the journey toward (Jd\)ii York, which they reached on the 21st of July, they found I lie birds in abundance, and they succeeded in drying on the rocks for the transit of Melville Bay two thousand j)ounds of the Lumme. After Imilding at the Cape a beacon cairn, and depositing the records of the i'^xpedition, the crossing of Melville Bay was effected with renew(>(l sulVer- iiig, the party being consolidated into two boats ; — the third was needed J'or fuel. August 6, on the eighty-third day after leaving the "Advance," they arrived at Upernavik, and were welcomed with characteristic lios- pitality. Passage was immediately taken in the Danish brig "■ Mariane," its Commander engaging to land them at the Shetland Islands; but toiu'hing a few days at Godhavn on the 11th, when they were on the eve of setting out for Europe, the lookout man at the hill-iop announced a steamer, and when it drew near, the Stars and Stripes were recognized, the boat "Faith" was lowered, with the little Hag that had visited both hemispheres opened to the breeze ; and as Kane's party ciimo alongside of the "Release," "Cai>tain Ilartstenc hailed a little man in a ragged flannel shirt, 'Is that Dr. Kane?' and with the 'Yes,' that followed, the rigging was manned and cheers welcomed them back to the social world of love." (October 11, 18')/), Capt. ILirtstene re[)orted to the Secretary of ■ l' t f ■li 'ii 'Sill ■■■I i m mai!Tsti:m:s iikpokt. 01 the Niivy, from New York, the Jiniviil of the lifteeii survivors of the i;.\|)('(lhioii on board tlic two licliel' vessels; statiiij^- in his hrid' h'ttci iliiit they hud been reeeived on board at I.ievely, after niakint;' ilicir w.iv (h>wn the coast in boats and sh'd^es by unpreeech'nted enerj^y and (Iclerniination. The "Keh'ase" and the ".\rctie" iiad both proved iliemselves all that eoidd l)e desired, particularly the "Arctic," which had, in addition to her steam motive-iiower, the (piulities of ii j^dod. \V(>atherly, moderate-saiIin;4 vcssi'l. They had been severely ni[)[»ed and chafed l)y the ice, but were f^enerally in good eoniUtion. The Commanding Ollict-r had saile(l '•^ iiiUrammclleil hij an]i »fn'ii- i/riif iiixfi-Hctiotts^^ from Secretary Dobbin.* lie had experienced a boisterous outward passage of twenty-seven days to Disco, with indi- cations there of such a state (»f the icy region before them that "in order to avoid further risk of human life in a search so exceedingly hazardous," he had there suggested to the T)ei»artment, '"the inipro- jiriety of making any efforts to relieve them if they should not return. — he felt c(ni(ident of the ability of his olVicers to accom[)lish their own release." On the passage to Upernavik ho had met with two Scotch whalers from Aberdeen, latitude GO" 39', longitude (JS" 30', and at once hoped for news of Dr. Kane's party from them, but was disai)point(d. lie had the opportunity of putting on board a despatch for the Department, with letters. I'he whalers said that Melville Bay was so [)ac!rvice November 8, 1847; promoted to l)e Passed Midshipman, .June, 18.5.3; to he a Master, September 15, 1855; to be a Lieutenant, September 16, 1855; resigned, May 3, 18J)'.». Watson Smith, Acting Mas- ter, entered the service October 19, 1841; promoted to be Passed Midshipman, August 10, 1847; to be Lieutenant, September 15, 1855. .1. P. Fytfe entered the service September 9. 1847; promoted to be a Master, September 15, 18.55; to be a Lieutenant, September 1(J, 1855; to be Lieutenant-Commander, July 1(5, 1802; to be a Commander. December 7, 18t)7; to be Captain, January 18, 1879. Ilarman Xewell entered the service September 22, 1849; promoted to Second Assistant-Engineer, February 20, 1851; to be First Assistant, May 21, 1853. w Wm ■ 'i'lii 1 !• -j ■ 1 I'll ^ I i ( I ij I ■ Ij ^'^ ii 's; 9i! AMKItirAN KXI'liOlJATlONS IN THK K'K ZONKH. ivv lliiU all lisliiiii;- slii|)s liiul tunuMl hack in (lospiiir, and that to uHiMnpt its passag*' would hi' to foiilVont thiiigor to no |mr|)os»\ llart- sttMie and Siinius pressed forward. Alter nioorinj; to her^s Tor some days near Wed<^<' Island, tin' ict' without any aj)|>arent canse, exeei)t the rcniarkahle njysteiions eurrents, disaj>peiired, leaving them to steam nninterruptedly into the elosely-paeked lloe ol" Melville Hay. In twenty-eiylit days more th(>y had erossotl it, and were in the North Water. In an article written for " Pntnam's Ma*jja/ine " for May, iHfitJ, Dr. .1. I*. Kane, Actint; Assistant Snrj^^eon of the "Advance." wlu'n (\v- scrihing this crossinj;;. says: " The navi_Ljation of Melville Hay is aftv'r its own kind and no other. Sometimes the nips wonld scineeze ns like a shellltark between a paii' of nnt-crackers ; sonu>times all hands were ont on the ic*'. towing' like horses of a canal-hoat ; sometimes we wonld make a hard mile a day by [)lanting anchors in tiie ice ahead, and «h'au^j;inu: onrselv(>s np to them hy the capstan, — all liands at work, fi'n(l voyage o I >!' tl le I'and ora. lonnd in u pnl|>y state within a demolished eaini. They were; still decipherable, a'.nl ('ajttain Yonng forwarded them to the United States Slate Department: — Cai'K AiJCXANDKit, Angnst Itl, lHr»r). "The United States brig 'Arctic' ileparti'd from her consort, the ' Kelease,' on the morning of the ir)th inst., ofV Wolsteidiolme Island, iiirived here this day, and having nnide nnsmuicssful search foi- traces nf Dr. Kane or Sir John Franklin and thi^ir associates, proceeded nnmcdiately on to ('a|»e Ilathcrlon for the same pnrposc. "11. .1. IlAltTHTENK, ^'- Ln'ufnianf-<'(>m)nandinf/ i\ S. An-tir K.r/»'t/i(inn. " i^'turned here iVom ('ap(! Ilatherton Augnst 18, having received iMf(»rmation from ICskimos. Dr. Kane had lost his v(!ssel, and gon«' in his boats. I am g<»ing to liecchcy Island. " nAirrsTi'Ai;."* , ill ^Mili " AiTorsT 11>, 18.')'). "I have returned from Cape Hatlierton, and on my way to rejoin you. If I miss you, remain off Cape Alexander till I retnrn. " IIautstionk." "Unitkd Statks Him(j 'Aiictic,' ('aim-: Ai.exandeh, August IG, 1855. "Stij, — Finding no traces of the missing ones, I shall proceed imme- diately to Cape Hatlierton, in continuance of the search, where you will join us. . . . You will re-enter the record of our touching here, together with another from yourself to the same effect, all your records to be within seventy-two feet north by compass, on a cairn erected on the most conspicuous and accessible point. Respectfully, "H. L. Haktstene, ^^ Lieut enant-Commandiny Arctic Expedition. " Lieut. -Com. Charles C. Simms, U. S. bark 'Kelease.' " 1 [i i f 1 1 i ! ! If i. « i i ! II rl \ i •ii' «»t AMKItlCAN KXri-OllATlONS IN THK ICIC ZON'KS. Passing iiiitlicr iiortliwjird, lie (lis('(»v('r('(l (lie first si^'iis ol" the missing party at IN-lliani INiint. Tlu'sc signs, liowcvci', were IVw and iinini|)(irtant, proving only Kane's visit at tliis placci in \S,')'-]. Deter- mining to push on as far north as possible, the ('onimander roniKhMl I his point, hit. 7.S' •)!'': hnt was then oji[»ose(l by a solid hummoeky lield of iee. withoni visible limit and interspersed with Ixu'gs, all drifting sonthward. lie dro]»|ted with this drift under sail, examining ('a|te Ilatherlon antl Littleton Island, and linully taking refuge under a ]»rojeoting point lifteen miles northwest of Cape Alexanch'r. lli-ri' \w was liist hailed l)\ human voi ees. ('ondu(!ted l>v two Kskim(»s who liad come ashore, the jiarty who lauded ])aeed along the borders of a lini'ly sheltered bay some three miles, over an endless carpet of gay pojtpies and (»ther wild Ijowers, which forme(l patterns upon tlie soft and ]iah' green grass, and canu^ ujton the Eskimo settlement at Ktali, — seven snudl sununer tents eovereil with eauvas, but l)la(dv with erusted grease and dirt. The thirtv iidiabitants w'ore alveadv assembled on a green mound in front of tlie village to greet Ilartstene, Lovell, and Dr. Kane's brother, all of them ei'vinu' with one word, hullo I liuUoI » " and then with a nu'asured a(;eent, " Doeto Kayen ! Doeto Kayen A close examination of the most intelligent, aided b}' an Eskimo vocabulary, brought out the repeated declarations th.at the ice had crushed Kane's vessel, and he had goiu' south with sledges and boats. IMay-oid<. the Eskimo examined, swayed his body backward and for- ward, drew the iigures of Kane's boats, scjuatted down, imitating the gestures and > lice of a dog-driver, and agreed with all the others in the number oi th( artv which had gone south. 'I'he relief shi[)s i(>aving Etah, stood over to Lancaster Sound with the design of reaching lieechej^ Island. liut again the ice debarred their course, ])reventing the Commander from executing the com- mission of erecting on the island the monumental tablet sent out by T^ady Fiaidvlin. Having made the whole circuit of the Northern part of IJatKn's Hay. exce])t the dee[) indentation between Capes Comber- mere and Isabella, a' i having fruitlessly examined Possession aiu Pond's Hay. Ilartstene returned south to Upernavik and Disco, hitter place receiving, as has been related, the missing explorers. 1 at tl le In K; llic \\nr western 7> in l;i';irly » i- lii(ik( 1 Mil isl ;iii ;Ut1 ;i-]iccl o l.iiids fr( (.f pieci| Its geoli liiiieston >tM||CS tl iirc in sei iipcks, an " The rested by and ran ( tiiiii in t (iivenlau mass ada overlies, (limlar fa "The interest, sort of es( landsca})e •• It WJ land, trer Tlic huge glacier I (■mini r\in UKI'OIJT TO SKCKK. .»KY DOlWUN. DO i!i:roi;ri:i» i;i:sri/rs or tiik kxphditiox. Ill Willie's iiiiiil l{t'|M»rt to tlic Secretary nl" tlie Navy, he sninniarizes I II' wmk (it' this Expedition l)y saying: "• (iici'iilaiid readies its i'mtliest wfslrrii |Hiiiit at Cape Alexander, in llie neij^lihorliood (d" latitude '^' !<• N., and. alter j»assiiijf Innnitiide 70^ W. of (Jreeiiw ieli, trends i.inly (hu' east and wcsi ( K. liO" N.). 'I'liis nortliern lace (»!' (ireenland i~ liiukeii l»y two lai'_i>;e bays, at the hase ot" which are niiiiiernns ;;rani- 1 id islands, which, as you apjiroaeh Ion. (i.V \V., assume the I'orin of iiii archipelai;< . I-'il'teen islands were surveyed and h)eateil hen-. The ;iv]icct (d' the coast is iinposin<^, ahnttini;' U[)on the watei'-lino in head- l.iiids iVoni eit^ht hunch-ed to fourteen hundred feet hi^h, and one ranj^e it pieci|»iee presenting an unbroken wall of forty-live miles in len<;th. Its i;'eoh)t;ieal structure is of tlu; ohh'r red sandstones and Silurian limestones, overlyinj^' a primary basis of massive syenites. The sand- ^iipiies to till' south of TS° seem to form the lloor (»f tlu* ba}'. 'J'hey lire in series, with intercalated greenstones and otlie rejected plutonic lucks, and form the (diief f^inh'rs of the coast. ••The further ))ro_nress of our parties toward the Atlantic was ar- rested by u great glacier, which issued in hit. 70" 12' N., Ion. (14° 20' W., and ran directly north. This forms an insuperal)le barrier to exi)h)ra- tion in this district; it is continnous with the >/*t'/' f?t' ///aw of interior (ireenland, and is the largest true glacier known to exist. Its great mass ada|)ts itself to the eontiguration of the ))asis-coiintry, which it overlies. Its escari)ment al)utting upon the water presents a perpen- dicular lace, var\ ing from three to five Imndred feet in lieight. ••The lines of crevasse and fracture are on an unexampled scale of interest. Tlu; bergs, which are ejected in lines, arrange themselves in a sort of escalade, which confers a character of great sublimity upon the landscape. •• It was followed along its base, and traced into a new and northern land, trending far to the west. This land I have named Washington. Tlic huge bay which separates it from the coast of Greenland and the lilacier I have described bears on my chart the name of our liberal C( uiili\ iiiaii. Mr. Peabodv ill if i . Ill 1 i ■ HI \ { ' B n 'If I 96 AMKHICAN KXI'LoltATHtSH IN THK ICK Z<»NI:h. "Tlio c«»iist» <»f this iii'W tt'iritniv, adjoining I't-ubody liay, have been nctnriiti'ly di'lincated by two juirties, whose results t'onvsjxnid. Its south weHtoi'ii eiiitc is iu hit. H0° 20' N., by ob.scrviiti.Mi with Jiitilicial horixoii ; itH h)ngitudi', i>y chronoujoter uud bearings, kiC)' 4'S W. ol (ii'eenwich. The eapt! was doubled by William Morton and our ICskinioH, with a team of dugs, and the land to the North traced until they reached tlu; large indentation named Constitution Hay. 'IMic whole of this liin' \\as washed by open water, extending in am iceless chaniu'l 111 the o|»|iosite shores on the west. This weshMii land I have inscribed with the name of Henry (irinnell." "The course of this channel at its southern (tpcning, was traced by actual surv(!y in a long horse-shoe curve, sharply delined against the 8t»lid ice of Smith's Sound, and terminating at its extremes against two iioblo headlands about forty mih's ajiart. 'I'he western coast was fol- lowed in subsecjuent explorations to a mural face of nine hundred feet elevati(»n, preserving thrctughout its iceless character. Here a lieavy surf, beating directly against the rocks, checked our future progress. "The precipitous headland, the furthest |)oint attained by the party, was named (ape Inde|»endence. It is in hit. 81° 22', long. 05° SA' VV. It was only touched by William Morton, who left the dogs and made his way to it along the coast. From it the western coast wjis seen stretching far toward the north, with an iceless horizon, and a heavy swell rolling in with white cai)s. At a height of about five Imndred feet above the sea this great ex{)ans(! still presented all the appearance of an open and iceless sea. "It was approached by a chainiel entirely free from ice, having a length of fifty-two, and a mean width of thiit3'-six geograi)hical miles. "The coast ice along the water-line of this channel has been com- pletely destroyed by thaw aiul water action : while an unbroken b«'lt of solid ice, one hundred and twenty-five miles in dianu'tcr, extended to the south. A gale from the northeast, of fifty-four hours' duration, brought a heavy sea from that quarter, without disclosing any drift to other ice. Dark nimbus clouds and water-sky invested the north- western horizon, and crowds of migratory birds were observed throng- ing its waters." iU KANK ON TIIK " Ol'KN IMH.AU SKA." 97 "To 111*' iinitlnist 'lu' (Mtasts hcfuiiH' mountaiiniiis. risinj,' in trim- (Mtrd coiu'S, likt' iIm' Ma^dali'iiii ( Mill's (•!" Siiitzltcrj^cii. i'lic rmtlicst (li>tiiit'tly-Hi^'litt'tl point was a lolly nn»imtaiii, liL-arinn' N. a' 10. (solar): its lalilii(h', l>y cstiinatf and intt'isrction. was K. '2" ."lO'. Its lont^itndc, ;)■> tlnis tU'li'i'iuintMl. would j;ivi) M° \V. (approxiinalivt!)." '•riic extension of the Anieiican coast to the soutliwest was tho \\,irk ol" Dr. Hayes and William (JodtVey, renewed antl conliinied hy iii\selt in April ol' the present year; it i-onipletes tho survey (d' tho (diist as far as the Cajto Sahine cd' Captain In^^lelield. The laml is vi'ry lull \, sometimes rising at its culminating peaks to llu; height ^A' two iliiiiisand live luunlred feet. The travel along the western and north- western coast was made lor Iht; most part upon the iee-l'oot. ()n»^ huge l>iiy, in hit. 79° 40' M., Ion. 73° VV., Iiy estimate, exteiKh'd forty miles into the interior, ami was tcrnunaled hy a glacier. A hirge island occupies the southwestera curvt? of that hay."' "The operations of tin* Expedition com|)reheuded the survey and delineation (d" the U(U*th coast of (Jreeidand to its termiuati(tn by a great '^hicier: the survey of this glacial mass, and its extension uorthward into the new huul named Washington : the disenvery of a large ehan- iiel to the mirthwcst, free from ii-e, and leading into au open and e\|iandiug area e(|ually free, the whole embracing au iceless area of i'diir thousaud two hundred uiiles ; the discovery and delineation of a huge tract of land forming the extension uorthward of the American (uMt incut, aud tlu; com])leted survey of the Auu'ricau coast to the south aud west as far as Cape Sabine: thus connects our survey with tile last-determined position cd' Ca})taiu luglelield, and comi)lctiug the circuits of the straits aud bay heretofore kuown at their southernmost oi)eniug as Smith's Sound." As regards this "open aud expanding ieeless area," here l)ased by Kane on Morton's re))ort, and so often since his day spoken of as the Open Polar Sea, it is but just to quote Kane's impartial judgment: — "Beyond Cape Constitution all is surmise. The high ridges to the northwest dwindled off into low, blue knobs, whicli blended finely with the air. ... " Au o})cu sea near the Pole, or even an open Polar basin, has l)eeu w f^ If li i I r li :li^ m i? i 98 AMKlllCAN KXPLOUATIONS IN TIFK ICK ZONKS. a topic of theory for a long time, and has boon shadowed forth, to sonic extent by actual or sui)posed discoveries. As far l)a(!k as the days of liarent/,, in lolUI, without referrinj:^ to tlie earlier or more ancertaiii chronicles, water was seen to the eastward of the northernmost cape of Novaia Zendia ; and until its linnted extent was defined by direcl, observation, it was assumed to be the sea itself. The Dutch fisheimen above and around Spitzbergen pushed their adventurous cruises through the ice into open sjiaces, varying in size and form with the season aui:! the winds ; and Dr. Scoresby, a venerated authority, alludes to 8ui;li vacancies in the iloe, as pointing in argument to a freedom of move- ment from the north, inducing ojien water in the neighborhood of the, Pole, liarou Wrangell, when forty miles from the coast of Arctic, Asia, saw, as he thought, a vast 'illimitable ocean,' forgetting for tlu! moment how narrow are the limits of liumau vision on a sphere. So, still more recently, Captain Penny proclaimed a sea in Wellington Sound, on the very spot where Sir Edward Jielcher has since left his frozen ships ; and my predecessor, Captain Ingleiield, from the mast- liead of his little vessel, announced a.. ' open Polar basin,' but fifteen miles otf from the ice which arrested our progress the next year. "All these ?7/?<«yry discoveries were no doubt chronicled with per- fect integrity ; and it nuiy seem to others, as, since I have left the held, it sometimes does to myself, that my own, though on a larger scale, may one da}' ])ass within the same ratri/ori/.'"' i'im<:pakati()X of his hook. On Kane's return he wrote to his t)ld friend, Hon. J. P. Kennedy: ' /ly health is almost absurd ; I have grown like a walrus." He set hini- ^.-'f immediately on the laborious task of [)reparing the Narrative of the Ex[)edition ; but the change from an active life to unremitted sedentary pursuits soon told upon his health. To carry through in six months nine hundred jiages of book-matter, supervising also three hundred engravings made from his own sketches, and all this com- l)licated by incessant demands on his time and toil by crowds of letters, was, in his own language, "no fun." In Sei)tember he wrote to JNIr. Cliilds, his ]nd)lisher, " the book, poor as it is, has been my coffin." The KANKS AKCTIC SKKTCMIKS. m sales of tlic first year of tlieso volumes reached the niuiiher of sixtj'-five tlinusaiid copies, realizing the sum of sixty-live thousand dollars copy- riuiit to the author. A brief but able review of the work, written in aiivanee by Mr. Charles Lanman, of Washington, gave a large impetus I'or the demand; thirty thousand i)crsons entered their subscriptions jx'l'on! the publication of the volumes. The success of their issue has not surprised those who have shared in the wide interest of Arctic |'A|>loration, nor even the general nsader outside of this circle. For tin- volumes contain not a single l)age devoid of historical or scientific iiiicrcst, and, although presenting the; form of a journal, are unusually relieved IVom the rigid detail of an itinerary. With the transj)arency (il truthfulness throughout notes of ex^jlorations of such value, the e\|)l<>rcr and writer, by his very constitutional peculiarity, embodied his descriptions in poetic prose, his jien sketching incidents of the day, as liis pencil did the lights and shades of scenery forming illustrations of I lie volumes. Of these sketches one of his comi)any, Mr. II. Goodfellov/, siivs: '• They were nearly all made on the spot, the more elaborate of tlieiii linished in the cabin. It is dilllicult to conceive that the picture (if Sylvia headland is not engraved from a photograph ; and the por- traits o*: the Eskimos ec^ually excellent." Hamilton, whose artistic skill lar<;ely increased their interest, in a letter to Dr. Elder, Kane's biogra- pher, comments specially on "the icebergs near Kosoak," "the great yliicier of Humboldt," "Weary Men's Rest," "Beechey Island," and the " Tinoe Brother Turrets," and "Tennyson's monument"; saying gener- ally of all, that whether executed with every appliance or with half- thawed ink and greasy paper, or paste-board accidentally picked uj) among the rubbish of the ship's store-room, they alike present the faith- ful record of the most essential features of the subject. The original sketch of Tennyson's monument is of the slightest description, and in lead pencil. '• Hamilton adds, ' Now, every one accustomed to study nature practi- cally is aware of the extreme dititiculty of rendering the peculiar texture ;iii(l tone of old, time-worn, weather-beaten rock, sandstone, crushed debris,' etc. Its successful rendition is one of the most difticult achieve- ments of landscape art. In the sketch of the subject alluded to, these ■ I! I lliif 1^ 1lf I , .'1 m 100 AMKIIICAN KXPLOKATIONS IN TIIK ICK ZoNKS. qualities (uolwillislinulinfjf (ho (joldiicss and sickness siilVered at the time of exei'iitiiii;' it, mentioned l)vtli(> lamented iiaviyator in his journal ) uk seeured t.o an extiMit that wouhl he ereditahh' to the most skiil'ul artisi : «'veiy IVaufment is jotti'd (h>\vn with a |)eree|)(ion and I'eeHnt;' whiidi sei/r the special ohariicter of the jninutest ])article delined, and yet its minn- tia' in no wav e(»n11ictiu<'' with the i>;iaudeur of (he suhiecl.' The power of i;iaj)1ii(! description in the writcu' iiimseir, alread\ referred t(» in the notice of the (irst Kxpedition, is yet more marked ill the two later volunu'S. The extracts hei(» avier, and the ice began to drive more wildly than I thought I had ever seen it before. 1 had just turned in to warm and dry myscdf during a momentary lull, when I heard the sharp twanging snap of a cord: oin- six-inch hawser had parted, and wt' were swinging Uy the two a lion. Hall rs, the gale roaring like I t a nuiiute more, and twang, I. >m ;'Mmt' a second report: I knew it was the whale-line by the shrilliu .-• of tae ring. Our noble ten-inch mainlla still hold on, and the crew were h)ud in its praises. We could hear its deep anilian chant swelling through all the rattle of (he runnini'-uear and moauimr *d" the shrouds. It was the doatli- song. The strands o-ayo way with (he noise of a shot(od uun : and in the smoke that followed their lecoil wo were dragged (tut by the wild ice at its mercy. ... "At seyen in the morning we were cli>se upon the piling masses. We dropped our heayiest anchor with the desperate hope of winding the brig, but there was no withstanding the ice torrent that followed. We had only time to fasten a s[)ar as a buoy to the chain and let her slip. So went our best bower. "Down we went upon the gale again, hel])lessly scraping along ,i lee of ice seldom less <^han thirty feet thick, (^ne tloe measured b\ ;i line, as we tried to fasten it, more than forty. One upturneil mass il KANK KKSCKIIUNC A STOIJM. 101 idsc above our <;iiii\viil(', sniiishin^ in onr Itulwarks, and " nj> IV, mi the southward. 'I'he Ihonoht Hashed upon m(! ol" one of oui' es- (■a|H'S in Melville l»ay ; and, as the suones moved rapidly close aIon«;- Abdary mana<;'ed to plaid aii anchor on its slope and hold on to \ a whaledini'. It was an aiixicms mouu^nt. Our noble tow-horse. MMC II l> Will tcr than the jiale horse whieh seumc( d to 1 10 pursuin<>' us. liaided us liiavcly on, the spiay ihishinu^ over liis wimlward Hanks, and his i'oi'e- IickI pluuj4hin*4' U|» the lesser ice as if in scorn. .Never did heart-l"eerni<^ I aeknowle(h'(^ Avith more <'ratilu o' •• As our brij4'. Ixune on by the ice. commenced the ascent (d" the ber<^', llic siisjiense was ojipressivc. The immense blocks piled against her, v.iw'^v upon range, pressing themselves under lier keel, and throwing lu'i' ii|H»n lu'r side, till, urged by the successive accumulations, she rose slowly and as if with convulsive ei'forts along the slojiing wall. Shock alter shock, jarring her to the very centre, she continued to mount steadily on her [)recarious eradh'. Hut for tlie groaning of her timbers Vdii might have heard a pin drop. And then as she settled down into ^!M] li'U '( ! :] If' i ) ' 1 ' i; .; 1 . 1 ■ 1 'i |! j i' I 1* '■:| ' i . l!*.t^ lO-J AMKUK AN KAriiOI- ATI(>NS IN TIIK WD ZONKS. licr old position, (piicllv lakiiii,^ licr |tlii('(> iimoiiu; I lie InokiMi inl)l)isli. lluM(> was a (loo[) l)roatliiii|L;" silence, as though all were waitiii};' lur some sijj^ual before the ihiinor of eonjrrat illation could hurst forth." TIIK (JItKAT <;i,A(IKi;. The gr»>at glacier of North ({reenland, apiu'oached hy MctJary ;ni(l Bonsall in tSoi?, was visited and surveyed hy |)r. Kane in April nf tin year foUowini;. Mv recollections of this along in view of its niagniliceni face. I will not alleiii|ii to do better by llorid descri|ilion. Men only raphsodi/e about Niagar,! and the oi'can. My notes s])eak only of Ihe loug ami ever-shiniii'.; clilf, diminished to a well-pointtMl w«'do(> jn (lie perspi'ctive : and again. 'of tiie face of glistening ice. sweeping in a long curve fr(Mu the low interior, the facets in front intiMisely ilhuninated by the sun." Ibil ihi-- line of clilf rose in solid glassy wall three huinlred feet above tlir water level, with an unknown unfathoniabh^ de|)th bent>ath it; ami its curved i'aci'. sixty miles in length, from Cape Agassi/, to ('a|M' Fin'bes. \anished into unknown space at. not mor(> than a single da\"s railroad travel from the Pole. Th(> interior which commands, ami from which it issues, was to the ey(> unsurveyed incr (/<• ;ihi('<\ an iee ocean to the t'ye of boundless dinuMisions." " It was in full sight, — the n\ighly crystal bridg(> which connecis the two eontiiuMits of America and (Jreeuland. I say coutinents : I'm Oveenland, however insulated it may prove to be, is in mass strictly eontinuous. Its least possible axis, nu^isured from the line of this glaciiM- in tlu> neighborhood of the SOth parallel, gives a length of moir than twelve hundred miles, not materially less than that of Anstralin from its northern to its southern eajie. Imagine now the centre ol such a i'(uitinent, occupied throughout nearly its whole extent by .i deep, unbroken sea of iee, that gathers perennial inerease from the water-shed of vast snow-eovered mountains, and all the precipitations of the atmosphere upon its own surface. Imagine this, moving onward like a great glacial river, seeking outlets at every fiord and valley, rolling iey cataracts into the Atlantie and Greenland seas, and havini; TIIK KXri.oltATluN CO.MMKNKKI) To CUNCItKSS. \m ill hisl n'iiclu'd (he ikmIIktm limit ol" liiiid tliiit hon^ it up, pouring out II iiiiij[Ii eonvietion dawntMl on me that. I was looking upon the counter- part of the great river system of Arcti(! Asia and .Ameiica. Yet here were n(» water-feeders from the south. Kv(M'y particle of m(»istur(! had lis origin within the j)olar circle, and had \)vv.n i;onverted into ice. There were no vast allusions, no foicst or animal tiiuuis borne down by lii|uid torrents. Here was a plastic, n)oving, semi-solid mass, oblitei- iiliiig life, swallowing rttcks and islands, and ploughing its way with ii icsistibl(> march through the crust of an investing sea." ii* ■ i; .1 'riu> i)id)lication of Kane's i)r(diminary Ke|)ort had sulliced for the creation of an innnediate and widt^sprcad interest in the work which had IxM'U acH'omplished. The Secretary of the Navy comnmnd(!(l the results (if the exi)l(M-ations as worthy of the attention and jtatronagc; of Con- gicss, and spoke of the cruise as an advance in the frozen regions far beyond those of Kane's intrepid predecessors; adding: " His residence lor two years with his little piirty far Ijcyond the confines of civiliza- tion, with a small bark for his home, fastened with .icy fetters that (leti(>d all efforts for emancipation, his sufferings from intense cold, and agony from dreadful a])prehensions of starvation and death for that sjjace of time, — his nnraculous and successful journey in open sledges over the ice for eighty-four days, — not merely excite our wonder, but borrow a moral grandeur from the truly benevolent considerations which animated and nerved him for the task." Immediately following the annual Report from which this language is cited, a correspondence had ensued between the English Ambassador, Mr. Crampton, and the State l)e[)artment, in which Mr. Crampton i ! 1 . ,ti 1 , 1 li i 1 ■Ma \ -I \m M'' J It I i I' ' 104 AMi:i:i('AN EXI'LOKATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. oflcMcd for her M.ijosty's Cntveniincnt its cordial coiigratuliitioiis for Kiiii(!"s salt' ri'turn, witli the assuraiu'es of tlio sincere gratitude of t\\o (iovermiiciit and tlic nation to iiini and to Mr. Grinnell for their gene- rous exertions and their liberality, and the best thanks to the Govern- ment of the United States for affording aid to the Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin. The furtiier statement of Mr. Crampton, that her Majesty's Government felt desirous to present some aeknowledo- ment 1o Dr. Kane and ^Ir. (Jrinnell for their generous exertion^. I'esnlted in an Act of Congress permitting the reception of such tokens as her Miijesty's (iovei'nmeiit might see lit to present to Dr. Kane ami the ofliceis who served with liim in that Ex[)edition. The (Queens Medal, cunimemorative of their services, was accordingly struck for the ollieers and men of the "Advance.*' To Mr. Grinnell a laiu'c and costlv Silver \'ase was j)resented, 'Ms a token of the sincere gratitude and esteem of the IJritish Government for his exertions and munilicence." * The liesolutioii of Congress, of a later date, authorizing the Secretary Mr. U. I*, and (JeiuMal and Mrs. T. I'. Kane, and Mr. F. J. Dreerand Mr. II, J. Tavlor. i DECLINING HEALTH. 10;-) ilir Awards of their higliest mtMlals. The medal of the London Society was received for Kane from Admiral Beecdiey, R.N., by United States .Miiustor Dallas; that of the Paris Society was transmitted tit Dr. Katie's relatives after his death. Shortly after the issue of Kane's volumes from the press, Lady Kianklin, in a renewed eorres[)()ndence, intimated her wish that he ('(|ui|) another expedition, of which, by consent of the Admiralty, he was to take conunand; bnt, by the advice of jMr. Kennedy and other friends, he reluctantly declined the honor, saying of his mother's desire tliat he should abandon it, "Other j)ersuasion I can resist, but tliis settles the (question." In the weary search for liealth he sailed for Ijinlaiid, where he received much kind attention, but almost immedi- ately lotnul his strength ])lainly on the decline. November IT, he iitttrtied to vVmerica by way of Havana, at which city he breathed liis last, February 10, IHoT. Perhaps no citizen acting as Dr. Kane had acted, chieily in the jirivaic ('a[)aeity of an explorer and traveller, has received greater tril)nt(!s of respect during his life or at death. At Havana his tctiiains, followed by more than eight hundred of the military and 1 ^ f 1 i ' ■ i I 1 it i '1 , ■ ' ■ ■ ' I 1 f %\ ^ M i .1' It t\ )i I; : ) Mi 100 AMKItlCAN KXI'LOKATIONS IN THK ICK /ONKS, citizens, were received by the G()veri)t>r of the city iiixl his suite, and escorted to tlieir embarkjitiou for New Orleans, and at that city, L(»nis- villc, Cincinnati, Colunibns, lialtimore, and Phihidel^yhia i'ull lionors were rendered by very hui^c military and civic i)rocessions. In the last-named city the remains lay in state in Independence Hall nntil the linal obsccjuies at the Second Presbyterian Church of which his parents were members, and in which he had been baptized. Amoni;' the pall-bearers were his life-long friend, Mr. (irinnell; Mr. I'ea- body, also invited to this duty, unhappily had not received his in- vitation. Dr. Kane's religious belief was not oidy decidetl, but fre(iuently expressed in the most public and fitting manner. His life was full of coniidence in (iod. Journalizing the incidents of a day of severe trial, he wrote: "I never lost my hope; I looked to the coming s[)ring as full of responsibilities, but I ha1{. KANi:'s DKATH. 107 111 the noar approiich ol" l" LIIMI'. .inllN i;( HXJKI.'S. I.S.N. riii: r..\ri,<»i;.\i"inN of riir. VINrKNNK.S .\ 1'.\|;T <»K TMK INITKIi si'Ai'KS KXI-KDirinN rNI>i;i; ro.MMANDKl; i:iN(;(;()|.|). -AI'IMMH'KIA- ri»»N r.v ('oN<;i;i:ss. (tM.IKCTS. si:ci;i:tai:v kknmcdv s in.stim'c I'loN."^. SITKNK.S.S or ro.MMANIH;i: l!lN(;(;oLI». — LlKl'TKN.VNT liOlKI i:i;s siT('i:i-.i>s to I'IIK commank. LOS.^ OK TIIK I'OIM'OISK. — ■riii; •• \ iNri:NNi:s lkavhs iionc; konc foi; iiki: aimtic cufisk \i;i;iVKS AT I'KTItol'AFLoVSKI. roNDrnoN of tiik town. i:n- I'FIIS l!KIII!IN«i STIIAFI'S. r.i:«»oKF AT c iSSFNAFI' I.KAVi;s A I'AKTV FNDKi; FIKFTFNANT IIAF.ns ANI» FFSTOMS OF TIIK N.\T1VKS. TIIK •• VINCKNNKS IN TIIK A!!('TIC SKA. AN<'ll()i;S IN I.ATITFItK Noirni. SAILS oVKi; TIIK TAIL OF IIKi;AM> SIIOAK ANI> L( »- < ATKS IIKliALI) ISLAND. TAN S|;K No TIIACK <>K I'LoVKK ISLAND. AI'I'UOACIIKS \Vi;AN(iKLL LAND. i;kt('i;ns to st. lanvi:knck hay AND '). two diiys alter tiie arri\al of Kane at the lirooklyn navy-yard. Till' very important exi»h)rations and surNcys ma(U' on this cniise Wert- in the prosecution of th( orio-inal phms of the I'liited States Sur- veyin^' and I"i\j)h>rin_i;' Expedition which had li'ft tlie rnitt'd States nnder ( 'oniniander ( 'adwahuhu' JJinp;<^'old. in {\\v year IS'):}. For tliis Kx]iediiion. ("oni^ress. Ity a section of tiie Xaval A|>j)ropriation liiH. hail ajijiroprialed tlie snm of one hnndred ,ind twenty-live thousand dollars, for the Imildiiii; and ])iirehase of snitahle vessels, and for the prosecntioii of a sni'vev and reconnoissanee for naval and conmiercud 108 ! ! 1 ; ,! I i I, |ilir(»nS('! ,lll(l of Iradiiiy; The screw si ••,1. Fen tcliiilit . • IftilL'llL'd ( 'illlMlitll ilially !■('( Iiiinsclf I ilrslcil <4'| iiiiilci' Li Tlic .< (ll)j('('t ot Kniiu'dy, iia\ ij^iilio l)i'iii<4' als( ill tlic iici lliii) oTcai of Nortli and the The Com propur, ai part of tl take all ( ( xtt'iisioii such rcscc t, of siicli i>ai'ts ul' IJcliriiij,' Straits, of tlic Noitli I'acilir Oiimii. .iiid <»r tlic Cliiiia Seas as arc fr('(|U»'iitcMl l»y Ainciitiui >\i\\<> ami I ratling vi'ssi'ls. 'I'lie Kxprditioii consisted of tlic sloo|M)f-\var " ViniM-mu's,'" ilif sciL'W stfainiT ••.lolin llancocU," tlic \nh^ •• I'or[M>lsc,"" the sclioonci' ••J. Kcnlnioic ( 'ooptT," and tlic >ture-sliiii ••.!. I*. Kennedy." laeii- iciiaiit .Iidin l{od<^eis, then on dnty nnder the Coast Survey, N\as ilctaehed and ordci'ccl to coinniand the •• Hancock,*" at the re(|Uest of ( oiiimander l{in<^<4dld, who accepted his (»ffer as a volnntecr. and coi- ilJMJIy I'cconinicnded him to the Navy Department. 'I'he ( 'nmmandii' liimsclf had, from the l)c;;inninj;' of the proposition for the siiivey, m;in- ih'stcd y;roat interest in it, having- lieen on duty with the llxpcdiiion under Lieutenant Wilkes in the South Seas, in the years lM:')S-l,S4:i. The stjuadron sailc(l iVom Norfolk .June 11. IH,'):!. Tlie primnrv ohject of the lv\iic(lition, laid down in the instructions ol' Secretary Kennedy, was tlu' promotion of the <;reat interests of conuiu'rcc and navigation, as referred to in the Act of Congress; special attention heing also diroctetl to the increasing im[tortance of the whale lishiiics in the ncighlxnhood of Mehring Strait. The thorough exaniiiiatinn of that great outlet was ex[)ected, as well as that of the adjacent coasts of North Ami'iica and Asia, im-luding the Scah of liehring and Anadir. iUid the Aleutian archipelago, with the east coast of Kamtschatka. The Commander was authorized to go as far north as he shoidd think |)roj)'jr. and devote as much time to tlie complete i)erformance of any part of the work as should he necessary; hut was instructed also to take all occasions nt»t inc(uu])atihl<' with these high ohjects, foi- the extension of the houndaries of scientitic research. For the conduct of such research, and for experiments, no special instructions were laid down. iKU' were the Naval Oflicers or the Scientists of the Expt'dition liniitc(l in these to their respective special spheres. All were expccteil to co-operate harmoniously in tlie prosecution of j)hysical investiga- tions, end)racing those of temperature at different elevations and in different latitudes, with specific references to barometrical, hygro- inctric, ami mometric observations, and those of the aurora borealis. of t'iuhclia, and the miraw. Hminent naturalists were to be attached to i ' Pl liii •I,) t' ;'' iiiiii j'i ! ■ il[' s ,> if M I: ! 110 AMKHICAN KXl'LOItATIONS IX THP: ICK ZONP^S. the P^xpeditiuii, uiid suggestions offered by the chief Philosophical, Scientific, and Litciaiy institutions of the United States made part of tlie instructions. Mr. William Stimpson was appointed to be the Natu- ralist of the Expedition; Mr. E. W. Kern, its artist; Mr. C. Wright, botanist ; Mr. W.D. Stuart, secretary and draughtsman ; and Mr. Anton Schoenbt)rn, instrument-maker. In regard to this Expedition, as well as Dr. Kane's, that under the connnand of Connnodore Perry, and the expedition to the Paraguay waters by tlie "Water-witch," under Lieutenant Page, a distinguished Naval Otlicer, is quoted, in Tuckerman's life of Secretary Kennedy, as saying that all were either the inception of the Secretary himself, or as liaving received from him such intelligent recognition and support as to have made its impress upon not only our own history, but on that of other nations. In Mr. Kennedy's Annual Report of December 2, 1852, h(» had expressed his interest in the relations of the Navy to such objects, by saying tliat "the constant employment of ships and men in the pro- motion of valuable public interests, whether in defence of the honor of our Hag ()!• the exploration of the field of discovery and the opening of "ew channels of trade, or in the enlarging of the boundaries of science, will be recognized both by the Government and the people as the true and proper vocation of the Navy; and as the means best cal- cuhited to nurse and strengthen the gallant devotion to duty which is so essential to the character of accomplished officers and so iridispen- sable to the effectiveness of the Naval Organization." From the outset of his administration of the Xavy Department his journal indicates the greatest activity, and he noces with obvious zest his arrangement for these expeditions. The outfit, manning, and instructions were both liberal and sagacious, and their respective Commanders warmly ac- knowledged their obligations for his scientific zeal as well as official courtesy. Commander Ringgold was advised that the resident Russian Min- ister had tendered the assurance of an interest felt by his Government in the Expedition, which might expect assistance, hospitalities, and refreshments whenever needed within the Russian domain. An ex- ploring s(iuadron from that Government was announced as about KOUTE OF THE SQUADRON. Ill .-tiiiii.n" out. Uussiaii Charts of regions to be visited would be eour- ic'oiisly ottered. The ships iiained above proceeded to the Cape of Good Hope, via ]\hi(U'ira and the Cape de Verde Isles. In the early part of November ihe ••Hancock," the "Feninioi-e Cooper," and the store-ship sailed for IJatiivia, and the " Vincenncs" and "Porpoise" to Hong Kong, via Australia. After a survey of Gaspar Straits and other localities, in .liilv the squadron reunited at Hong Kong. In the month of August of the following year, 1854, a reorganiza- ii(Mi of the Expedition became necessary, the failing health of Com- iii(i(l(ir(^ Ringgold requiring his return to the United States; the (■(iiiunand devolved upon Lieutenant John Rodgers, the next in rank. After his transfer to the connnand of the " Vincennes," the complement of his otticers for the cruise consisted of Acting Lieutenant John M. lirooke. Astronomer ; Acting Lieutenants Francis A. Roe, Thomas Scott Fillebrown, John H. Russell, and Fleet Surgeon William Grier, Assistant Surgeon W. L. Nichol, and Purser W. R. Roggs; with the Corjis of Scientists already named.* ll.irly in Sei)tendier of the same year, the "Vincennes," Commander Rodgers; the steamer "John Hancock," Acting Lieutenant Henry K. * •' ViNCENXEs' " Officeks Xaval Kecoki). — Lieutenant ooinnianiling, .John lloiliii'is, warranted midshipman, April 18. 1S28; promoted to be passed midshipinan, .Iiiiif 14. 1S.>4: to be lieutenant, .Ian. 28. 1840; to bo eommander, Sept. 14, 1855; to be (•:i|ii;tin. .Inly 10. 18(52; to be eonnnodore, .June IT, 1803: to be rear admiral, Dec. 31, 1809; cliiil at Wasliington, .May 5, 1882. Acting lieutenant, John ^I. Brooke, warranted mid- sliil>inaii. March ."5, 184f: passed midshipman. Aug. 10. 1^47; master (in the line of liroiiioiiun), Sept. 14. IS,"); lieutenant, Sept. 1."), 1855; tendered resignation and left till' M'l vice. April 20. 1801. Acting lieutenant, F. A. Roe. warranted midshipman, Oct. I'.i. !sH; passed midshipman. Aug. 10, 1847; lieutenant. Sept. 14. 1855; lieuteiuint com- iimniicr. .July 10, 1802; conniiander. .July 25. 1800; captain, April 1, 1872; eonnnodore, Nti\. JO. isso. Acting lieutenant. .John 11. Kussell, warranted midshipman, Sept. 10, |s^l: passed midshipman, Aug. 10. 1847; master, Sept. 14, 1855; lieutenant, Sept. 15, is.")."); lieutenant connuander. .Inly 10, 1802; commander, Jan. 28, 1807; captain, Feb. iJ, 1S74. Acting lieutenant. Thomas Scott Fillebrown. warranted midshipman, Oct. 19. l"!4i: passed midshipinan, Aug. 10. 1847; master, Sept. 14, 1855; lieutenant. Sept, 15, 18.55; liiMitcnaut connnander, July 10, 1802; commander, July 25, 1800; captain, Jan. 0, 1874; rnniiuodore. May 7, 1883. Wm. (Jrier, assistant surgeon, March 7, 1838; passed assistant Mir^'con, April 14, 1852: nn^dical director. March 3, 1871; siu-geon-general, Jan. 30, 1877; ivtiied, Oct. 5, 1878; W. L. Nichol. asst. sin-g., Jiuie 2S, 18.52; resigned Xov. 21, 1855; W. 1>. Hoggs, purser, Xov. 30, 1852; pay director, March 3, 1871. |. t m \ I ■ p ; » h ; I!' f i i\ I l!i ft ■| J i : \; i I !i 112 AMKKK'AX KXl'J.OUATIONS IN TIIK UJK ZONES. Stevens; tlio "Porpoise," Acting Lieutenant William K. Bridge: and the " Feniniore Cooper," Acting l^ieutenant William (Jiltson, sailed from Hong Kong. Tlie '•'Join; Hancock '" and " Feniniore Cooper," sailing September !>, were sent t(» the Peiiio Itivcr in con nection with tlie visit and negotiations of United States Minister Mcliane. Wi)ile so engaged, important surveys were made in that region. When their presence was no h)nger rcMpiiri'd by Minister M{;Lane, lliey surveyed tlie western coast of Formosa. 'Die " \'incennes *' and " Por[)oise " saiU'd from Hong Kong on tlie 12th oi' Septemlier for a survey of the Bimin Isles, Ladrone, I^oo-chon. and the islands west and south of Jai)an, and returned to Hong Kong in February, IHo"), with the exception of the brig " I'orpoise," which parted company from tlm "Vincennes" September 21, lMr)4, in mid-channel, between Formosa and (^hina to the northward and XNCstward of the l^esi-adores. The brig, with I'Veiy soul on board, jx'rished. She wiis to have met the '•Vineennes" at the IJoiiin Isles, and Conimandi i liodgers waited for her there beyond tlu; ai»[)ointed time. As their were grounds for apprehension of her safety, since both the "X'iii- cennes" and the " Poijioise" had struggled together with the storm of the date named, Commander Kodgers went in search of her, visiting the I no-choo and other islands and places where it was thought pos- sible she nnght have been driven by the gale; and afterward the "Hancock" and "Cooper" thoroughly explored the island of I'or- mosa., but without the slightest intelligence of the ill-fated brig. Heferring to her loss in his Report of December 2, 18')4, the Setnetiiiy of the Navy said of her ol'tii'crs: "They were all young, energetic, and tidl of professional ])ride. The service in this calamity has met with ;i severe loss."' Tlie otlicers referred to were Acting Lieuteniints W. K. Bridge, Wm. Heiley, S. J. Bliss, and W. W. Van Wyck ; Midshipmnu G. F. Baber; Assistant Surgeon J. II. Stuart, and Cajitain's clerk. S. .1. Potts, Jr. In Lieutenant Habersliam's volume, entitled "My Last Cruise." Lieutenant Brook(> will be found to have eonuiuuncated this account of the sad disaster : — "The two vessels in com])any were struggling Avith the noitliciist I/)SS OF THE "' I'OUl'OISK 1115 iiKitisnons in tlio Cliiiia Sea. Occasionally the vooriii<;f wind and cliauijjing barometer indicated the passage of a cyck)ne. The iiuMcasiii};' I'uiv of the wind, and these indications governed the conrscs ol' the vessels. At lengtli they i'onntl themselves hctween Formosa and the iiiiiiii, and dnring the night of the 'iOlh of Sei)teml)er tlicy hehl on mar mid-channel; but in the morning the ' V'ineenni's.' then lo lee- ward, bore up lor the IJashee passage. It w;-s presumed that the > j'(»r{)oise' would follow. "While the 'V'ineennes" was thus running before the wind, towing hawsers astern to break the sea shonld she cross the banks, the • l*or- ])oisc ' was enveloped in a driving mist and lost to sight. This separa- tion was regarded as of little moment, for the brig was well-manned, and her ol'licers, individually and collectively, were men of the lirst aliilily and courage: you knew them all. "ll is generallv understood by seamen that sound vessels are safer aliiue than in company; for the whole attention of the conunancUn- may he devoted to the care of his vessel without thos*. modilications of plan rciliiired when acting in concert. In those seas the obscurity of the iiiglit rendered it dillicult to distinguish light, and the sound of cannon Would b(! lost in the roaring of the w'nd and waves. Thend'ore neither siii|)rise nor special anxiety was experienced on that occasion. "The ' N'incennes,' having passed the liashee passage, enteicni the Pacific, anil, until h(;r arrival at the Bonin Islands, ex])erienced line weather. The arrival of tin- • I'orpoise ' — a duller sailor — was daily ('X[)ected. Meanwhih' there came on, at v in coast orciiiiia. it \\onld lie siiij^idar, indeed, if ii(t vestij^c of a ship WHM'Ked or hist ther(> shouhl he lonnd. It is not pr(d>altl(' that the 'Porpoise' was h)st until she reached th(> vicinity of the llonins. "She hore the character of a sj^ood seadioat, hut was short and deep in the waist. thiM'el'ore liahh' to hroach to, or to he hroiinlil In the h'c to till and I'oiiMchM-." In March, ISo.'). the i-ApCihtion ayain hd't lloni;' Koii^- lor snrveviii!; loses. Alter siirvcviim" t li(> west coast of Forniosa, the "■ X'incenn es. l^nri th(> " Cooper,"' and \\\c ''.lohn Hanco(d< " jtrocceded to Loo-choo, where the three vessels t<\i;'etlier bcuan tli(> snrv(\\s l)(>tween that island and thipan. rassiiiy^ (ni to Sinioda, .Ia]tan, the surveys were continued; the " (\>o]hm" cNploriui;" thewi^sleru coast o\' Ni|)liou, and the " \'inceuiies" and the "llain'ock" that j-.artof the sea lyiny; in tln> jiatli of vessels near the cast coast. whih> tlu> laiimdi of the "N'incennes" under liieiilcnaiil Hioid<(> niatlc a runninu" survey of the (>oast fnuu Siinodii to llakodadi. From llakodadi the "llancmk" jiroccMMJed to survey the Ochotsk Sea. and the "■ (\n>p(>r " to explore the luutheru .)apan(>se and l"'ox and Alcniian is tl UMU't^ \\CV Avct ri le mcenues ailoil for Kamchatka to In '111 1 1 ic cruis(^ THK AlK'TH' I'Ari.OUArioN. (>f the most important and permaiuMitly valiiahh> work of the ntutluM'u cruise bv the " Vincennes," it remains as vet a matter of universal regret that no oHicial or other narrative lias been publislnMl. In the rejiort o( Secretary Toueey of Deeember, 1857, lie said : "The work of }iublishiu>jj the survey of the late Ex|)edition to the North Paeilic and Hehrir-:^ Straits under Commander Hodo^ers, is rapidly ad- vaneiuLT : engagements have been made with eminent professors in the variinis branches of natural histtuy, describing the nuist important specimens l>rought luune by the Kxpedititui. A portion of the liycbd- iil MHItVKVH MY TIIK " VI NCKN N KM. llJ .ipIlK ;il work is in (lir liiiiidH (»!' IIk; iMi^iiiver, tlui rest is in a hIuIc of ,1 uiirdncss. riir Iivy Hie ice Wiirriers, Jind willi wis(! prn- ,|, nee I Mined liis |»i'(»w lioniewiird, lieaiiii^f liis Wiiy liiick iit^fiiinsl, liead- wiiids. mid reiieliiiiL,' (lieSliiiits in lime lo j^n-t tliron^di, Itiil niiirkint; liis /iu/.ii^' t'onrse l»y !i line of Koiindinj^s on Ilii! (^luirl of ' IJeliiin;^ Sell iiiid (lie Arctic Occiui,' jmblislied l)y tlie (Jovernment. over liis niinic, wliieli is still tlic best iuitliorlty to those who follow after him, ami to which mncli liiis licen added by those who liiive imitattid his (■aiclMl metiiods, hut from which nothing has hcen taken." ["In Mciiinriiim," Treiisury Document, No. 277.] Tlie chiirts (d' the list of the I lydrof^raphic OlVice are : — No. ;")!, "" IJiiy of Avatidia, Kamtchatkas and approaclKss ; Nos. H and ;")."i. '' Aleutian Arehi|ieliigo," — in two sheets; No. r>7, " TIk; Straits of Sciiiiiiviiie in Hcdirin^ Scji ; " N(». (50, "St. L;iwreiicc l>ay." No. (>H (as named al»ove)i Hehriii}^ Sea and the Aictic Ocean. Tills niimher, as reissued by (Commodore .!.('. I'. I)(d\ral't, llydi'o- 'jrajilicr of tlie liureau of Navij^ation, ^ives an ext(nision of the Nitrthern Asiatic coast, westward to Ion. IT);")" K. ; also the iraciks and the hij^diest |i(iiiit reached by the " Hodt;'ers," under liiciilenant K. M. Berry, Sept. IH, ISSl, lat. 1')" 44' iN. This position and that of the iinfrutunatc! ''.Joan- iicfte" when crnsluMl by the i(^e, June 1'», 1HH1, with other indications of recent Arctic Kxplorations, will be found laid down on the (;ircum[)olar in lip (i»ock<^t of this volume). It has not been found pra(!ticabl(! to furnish a reply to the many iii(|uirics which have been made as to tlie deferring of tlie publication cf the full narrative of this Exploring Expedition of 1853-55, or of its ':! ' 1 1 4 ii ■ :U lU) AMKItirAN KXI'LDItATIONS IN TlIK ICE ZONES. Arctic cruise; a lair iiil'crcnec may Ix' drawn from the history of lik( cases, tliat the iioii-appearanec of the text lias been caused by tin want of a suflicient apiiropriation for its issue by th(! Navy Depart- ment. The brief notie(>s whicli I'ollow would have been most giadl\ extended or have <;iven i)laee to a fuller history, if such liad uj){)eare(l. They are, however, derived from the letters of the Commander, tin Ship's loo', and the lieports of the Secretaries of the Navy, with soim notes of the eami>iny on shitre at (ilassenapp, by the Jiarty under Lieutenant IJrooke, tlrawn from his courteously loaned memorandum books. THE NOI.'THEIiN CRUISE. July - directions, laroe and alfordini'' •iood anchorairc. 'I'he village presented a sino'ular ap})earance, its houses, about one hun- dred in nundier, bein^- built of logs hewn S({uare, many of them luiviii;^ red roofs: tlu' better class covered with sheet-iron, the red lead beini^- probably designed as a protection from rust. The village is situated at tiie head of a land-locked basin, formed by a high ridg(; of land curving out and rounding from the main, and then running parallel to it. A low sand-spit forms a breakwater across the entrance, (^n i.Le shoulder of the si)it and on the promontory of the ridge, were seen tlie ruins nl batteries from which the guns had been removed. A boat came off with a Mr. Case, an Americaii residen't, who reported the town deserted, and that the public property had been destroyed, and that of private persons wantonly injured by the French. On a visit by the ofiicers of the " Vincennes," the burned houses presented a mournful aj)pearance, and the deserted mansion of the (Tovernm scarcely less of discomfort. This dwelling also was of logs caulked with oakum, and lined with painted canvas ; its heating had been from Russian stoves, which, as massive squares of brick-work, maintained a constant temi)erature. A stream of clear \vater, supplied from the melting snow of the hills, formed a small cascade in the garden, wheic gooseberr}' bushes were just shedding their blossoms, and the straw- SKAIM'II KOIi A \V1IALKI{ 117 l„vrv beds woro verdanl. In the streets niaiiv (l<)<>s were WiinderiMir •jtlioiit masters, t(t die >){' starvation. l-ri(Mlt enant Hrooke entered in lijs iKiti's (»!' the visit, that the hhu-k enihers »i|' the hurned liuii ses were ;i so hiT uvenir of the J''.ni;lish and the l-'reneh eonlHet, the niort' niournt'ul ause the severity of the climate and the eohl asj)eet ol" X\\v moiin- ,iin^ wonld iiu'lim; one to tliinh that into siieli a eonntry num shouhl incly carry the ernelties of war. •• iJiii the Freiu-h piohahly reniem- hcrc< I iMoseow." In tiie ealm ol" tlu' eviMiiny; the sceneiv was very line, (\sentin_L|; from one ])oint tlie wide waters of the hay. the chisi', cahn rhor, the distant and majestie mountains, and the iinht-iuied ve^-i'ta- iiK waving' with every ze|)hyr. \'ioU'ts and heartsease were naijicred 'I' liiiiiie li,nii('< letters. Durinn' tlie al)sen( c of llie olhi'crs the seine had been h l)rin,<>in,y' up one hund.cd and I'orty salmon with tront: a kin<;'- .>;ihiioii \vei_nhe(l .sixty j)onnds: tlie lin'htcst. ten pounds. TIk^ s(;ho(UU!r "■ Fenimoi'c ( 'oojx'r "" came in I'rcnn a cruise to Aetku, one of the Aleutian Islands, which she had visited hy ordeis of Coni- iii;mder I{od!4'ers, under instructions from tlie Navy I)c|iartment, to iii;ike in(]uiries for the fate of the ollicers and crew of the wlude-shi]) •• Moiioiii^ahela,"' which was lost in the autunui of IS,"):), jn iittem[)tint>' 111 make iier seventy-second |iassae'( in Ion. ITii west. Diliucut search u;is made, and tlie Islands of Sc^oiim and .Vmo^hta. which lie on each side ol" the passage, v.'ere tho'roiiehly examined. .\t Actka were found several water-casks. sup])osed to have h'dono'ed t(» the missing' vessel, liiit no tiriz(»n, \\ii> orange and violet, the distant land brraking into the arch of cnlois was dark, and in bold relief tinged with purple. As the sun came u|), all changed to crimson and gold, and the light clouds aloft, even in the west, were warm and beautiful. To the west rose the gray land (tvcr- towcred l)y the snow-cai)ped [)eaks, cold as could be. The waterfowl were reflected in the mirror-like sea, and their images were seen at every undulation of the smooth waves; hardly perceptible, long, wav- ing lines diverged on either side as they advanced toward the shi|). Seaward, a thin, low haze obscured the sky and sea, which faded like a mirror beneath the cloud." July 10. — The ''Vincennes" encountered thick weather, but with- out rain ; at noon, when it lightened up, Behring Island was seen bearing S. E. The Commander regretted that he was unable to wait for clear weather to locate the island, which is found differently placed on the Russian and English charts. From this date up to the close of the Uionth, adverse easterly winds prevailed, with the exceptional calms accompanied by the usual fogs. On the 28th, when Lieutenant Brooke sounded for deep-sea dredging,* Saxton's thermometer was l>ent to the lead, and sent down, all quills included ; at nine hundred fathoms only, it reached bottom, the shot detached itself, and both the quills and bore * In Sir C. W. Thomson's " Deptlis of the Sea," page 211, will bo, found the fol- lowing: — " About the year 1854. Passed-Midshipnian J. M. Brooke, United States Navy, \s\w was at tlie time doing duty at the Observatory, proposed a contrivance by wliich the shot might be detached as soon as it reached the bottom, and specimens brought up in its stead. The result of the suggestion was Brooke's ' Deep-Sea Sounding Apparatus,' of which all the more recent contrivances have been to a great extent modifications and iniprovoments, retaining its fundamental principle, the detaching of the weight." The last of these remarks will be found confirmed by the Reports of the Naval Officers engaged in the work THE "VIN'CENNES IN HEHI{IN(i STUAITS. 119 of the rod were hauled up full, ii p^reeiiish sediinent revealinj^ iiiidrr the microscope, living iininuils; as on a previmis day, when the sound- iiiy |)r<»iuin<'iil elieeklxiiies, iiiiikiiiLj' tlieiii iipjx'iir siiii,'uliirly heavy. Tli sIkiiii, except a l)i(>ii(l ridj^c over the loichead. "'I'l leir hail' was le women wer(^ no' i'^!'')'' some ol' thorn (piile pretty, partii'ulaily w iieii thev smileil and when askint;' lop anythinii;'. they pnt on so winninij' an air and smiicMl sn sweetly, an(i were so iireh and annisinn', the ol'lieers eoiild not resisi them. Some had their I'aees sli<;litly tattooed with hine lines IVoni tin lower lip to the chin, or on the cheeks: their hands and I'eet wiM'e vei\ (h'licately i"orme(l, hut not clean. They wore tlu'ir haii- lon'es of walrus teeth, lances, and liar|M)ons made of the ivor\ ol the moose lor needles. II iread sil and like art icles ; tohacco IxMlc'' cliiell\' desircf I. All could either smoke or chew, and Wn' hall' \>\u'^ of the weed lliey \\ illim;ly i;a\(' wea])oiis which must iiuvc; cost them wei'ks ol' patient labor. They imniired I'or n'roy", ol' which, how- ever, vei\- little was oiveii to iheiii. This rai-e are sjxtken ol" in the lettiu's ol" ( 'omiuauder l{od,L>'ers ''as a line-looking' set of iiieu, of free and Ixtld heariii^'. Of all the Asialie races inliahitint;' Siberia, they onl\- have not submitted to the tribute ol" ]ielli'ies demanded by the Russians."" * 'l'houi;h still in a t;'i'eal measiu'c Nomad.-;, they have fewer iJjlJi'j I *Jiiciil. IIovij;iiiinl, in his " .N()nl('iiski(")l(ls Voyau'o." i^p. 117-111), Siiys of this ra«'o : " When Yfiiiiak 'riiiidfcy.'lf, thf Kossack chief, in l.JT'.', flfd and crossed (;ver tlio Ural Mountains, lie ;ind liis snceessors snlidaed in th<'cnin-se of a cenlnry nearly all tlie tcrriloiy whicl) \v(> call Siberia; hiil in the outlyiii'.; northeastern jiart of IheOid World, a small, eoiua^eous, bnl sava.i^e race of iieojile kept the; rest loss conijnerors at hay. This was (lie (Jlniekchcs. " Bofore the con'|iiest of Sihi>riii th(> Chuokclios lived in ahnosl coiislant ivarfare with the otlier rae(>s in tin; norlheastcrn disiriels, in consofiuencc! of the raids of ono tribi; u]k)ii another. 'I'he ("Inickches -were j^enerally tlie victors in these wars, ami gainod great renown for bravery, and weie considered alnujst invincilde. In the middle of tlu; last century, however, I'avla/.ki made a suc.'essfnl inroad into their coiuitry. and aftor several defeats, and considerable losses, they retreated into their inhospitable nioimtaiu regions. where (he victors conld Jiot jmrsiie them \ithout great ditrK'ulties and endless dangers. "The liussians were satislied with subduing the smaller and nearest tribes. A long time elapsed before they succeeded in entering into any friendly connuunicatiou or cstai)- li^liiiig any lirst tliey on ;il'iei' ihe ,.x| :t|i|M'ared to ili.'ir womei IToijtiihli! ir l.'iis^lans wa 'lies, and th "The h :d-n hei'ii gi tlie .\m(!ri( a paiiy from S; :iiid similar ; i\i li.nin'e ge: MKIT. lUtOOKKS I'AUTV ON SlKlltK 1-21 •Ii;iriU!l(!iisti('s ii('cnin|);inyiii;^' lluil mode of life tlimi llic WiiiHlcriii;^ 'rmitjiif It iiiiiv lie icnicinlx'ii'il tliiit tlicv were Sfivicciiltlc In Ciiiiliiiii Mnurc, of II. I). M. slii|» •• I'lnvcr," of the l''r;iiikliii liclicf .XIKM lilinli, ISlS-"):.*, ulicii he iiiiclinicd in-iii' llu'lii. I'lio C^)iniiiiiii(lt'i' nl' tlic '• N'iiicciiiirs," (III .u'l'iiin- ;i.s|ioi(. with Licu- h niuif IJi'dokc t(t select a pusilioii I'ur the ciiiiiiiiiiL;' of the oliseiviiiLf h.irtv l('feri'«!(l tt», Inlllid tlie lints Id he iiiimK' nl' liide. |iatelied uvel' ri;iiiie\V(trl' iron kettle Tl le 'Mound \V,IS s trewii with Ixmes of tlu! moose TIk! hesitancy on tlu; part of Commaudcr J?()(l<(('Vs to leave the (ilisiTviii'4' party at this place was overcome liy the |)r()ni|)( desires of llic Lieutenant to secure results which the unl'a\(iialile w cat her had !lll- iir cdiitinudush fdrliiddeii. ( )n the oih, at an ear Iv I idur. e was lan(le(l, with twd tenls. and spars, and sails as materials Ml' liiiildin^' a cdmnid(lidus lidiise I. ieutenant iii'ooke dlilaiiied iiioni allilndes and one al meridian, liesi( e se\cral near it. with which las! i>l)servalidiis Liculenant Kiisseirs au'i'ee(l. 'riie station was on the -hdii'. al the head of llie Iii^ht which this little liay fdrms. Trdxisidns Were laii(le(l for eleven persdiis for two uidiitlis, and the ]iarty were lliordii^'iily equippeil f(ir defeiice, by the ^'uii of llic launch, tw(dve- !i^liiii<;- any tvmW witli tlio Cliiicliclics. Tlioy wore still suspi( oi' llic liiissians, anti at lirsl tlicy (inly sliowcd tlxMiisclvi's in ^^rcat luinili and fiillv aiiiu'd. (in the hordcr.- (in :iliiT llic cNiicricncc nt' many ycai-s, and many jii'dofs of the sincerity of the Knssiaiis, tlicy ajilicaicd lo fed more and inort^ sccnre, and In Wi'angclfs time they came fearlessly wil.li ili.ir \tonien and eliildi'cn to the distant, Itnssian fairs over the liorders. nntil a mntually I'l'dlitaliU! trade; was developed. Another important resnlt, of this Intcreonrse with the i.iH-ians was the softening imluenee of the habits of civilized Knrop(\ans npon the <'linclv- ■lies. and Ihoir foinn^r savaj,'ery viinishcd to a ,t;rcat extent. ■■'rii(! hostih^ feelini; has now completely died out, and of late years the natives have ;il-o l)e(>n gr(>atly inlluenccd liy their interconrse with tlie Ain(!ricans. 'J'hey d(i not like the AnuMican whalers, as they iiiterf(rc with their seal and walrus hunting; but a com- pany from San Francisco sends every year some ships to barter with them for walrns teetli iiiiil similar articles, and these traders tlie riinckehes look uimn as i;ooil friends, as tlnsy in i\( li.in>;e get biandv. tobacco, clotii, etc." U iiK. I ' ! ' M' J 0m . ;!il 'f: ■ : I : i ii / 1 )i«|! h , I ill i ! 122 AMKItU'AN KXI'I.OItATIONS IN THK ll'K ZONKS. |H»uii(lei- howit/.rr, lifty-tliico roiuidH dl' canister mid hIioII, thin ciirltiiu's, llirco iiiuskets, ami tUvvv, lilies, witii al)<)iit oiio tliousaiid eaitridj^fes and their a|)piirtenanees. A wluih'hoat-hiiilt (Mittei was also h't't, ill which to escape in case of acei(h'iit to the sliipi At the time of lauding", the natives came aiomid them in cro\V(U. tiic ehihh'cM canviiii;' many thinj^'s from the hoat, and tlms assistint; in |)hicin<4 the stores under shelter. l>rook(? did not fear the peopU', whn seemed to he honest and indepemh'nl. ('onimamh'r liod^ers ami Lieutenant Fillehrown took some observations from the hi^diest pciil, of the islands, and Mr. E. I{. Kiiorr, now of the llydro^in^ from the sup- plies of rum which had b(!en so iniixcusahly i'urnished by traders previous to this visit. The party under Lieutenant Brooke had IVe- (jiieiit opportunities of witnessini;' the habits, customs, and manneis of tlie natives, their nu-ans of obtaininj;' their food, their manufacture of articles for sale to tlie traders, and their varied anuisements. The last- named of these presented S(»Mie characteristic i:,\'i"i(tNs IN rill'; \(i\ z(»ni;s. ciiiild hiii'illv i'(';ili/r lliiil lir Wiis tlic siiiiic in, in wiio ciinic smiling' to ns iil'icrwiinis, iiiid cxcliiinircl. ■ M< l-lrhl nL- l\ and iliiwii. When ndliiiL;' in, nrrat cart' is taken hy r\cii Ihc iikisI like small Uallimns. ai." used as himys. Iirr-|iirs('i'\ ers, ur lenders uliilc linn I in''. Tlie '• N'iiiccmies," in liie |irusecii(iun nl' ( '(ninmiiider Ijod^crs' plan il" iiei' N(i| I lieili eiiiise, ciilered I lie A rel ic Sea AilL^ilsl II. ileliadlinl ■xpeeled lo aMeiii|il a Viiyai;e lo llie j'ai' N'lnili. llie Held nf lalior, as lie \|i|-essed il in liis Idler In llie I )e|iail nieiil, Iteiii''- rallier to llie Soiilli- •\ an I (pT Cajie I'/ist I lan I II llie N'lnl h of il. il was III I ell y impussili 111 expeel lo wiiiler ill a lii^li lalilnde, llie sliiji had Iml I'diii- immllis pi'dvisioi and I'liel. and I lie ( 'i)iiiiiiaiider was '• desirous lo reliirn ti Hie work n\' llie siir\c\s al llie earliesi dale eoiisisleiil willi I l*e visiliin lo I he laiMl III ahoiil II. 1-r N.. I' III. I (■) \\ as plaeiMJ upon the Adniirally eliails riom the jfeport of II. I'.. M. I'ri'^ale 'Herald/ ('aplaiii Kellell : with eNaniinin'.^ Ilerald Island, seen hy the same ^hip, Itiil not exiiJoriMi anil llie I iidea\(ir to rea •h W I anu'e and as deseniied |i l/ieiileiiant W raiiL;eirs eompaiiion, \)\. Kvher.on his I'olar Ivxjiloial loll of ISiil. he ship was I'aNoied willi a slidiiw' l»ree/e, liiil llie wealiiei' wa.s ihiiK and loweriiiL;' ; she ran on iimler all sail, n'elliii<; a east, IVoiii II"' lead eveiy hour. Aiil;iisI II. she eneoiinlered a stream nl' dril'l- W * III III'' \:iri:iii\c of his I'ixipcilil iim lo |)ii' I'olnr Srji, IsiiiMo Isi'i;, liy laculciiiinl. Voii i;iiiu"li, of Mil' i.assiaii Niivy, on \M'z,r I'A-J. (Sfiliiiir, 'Jd cililion, isll), will l»c foiiiid lli'' loiiow 111'' : — Sonic of III,, cliiffs of llii' 'rcliiiklcjii liijii's of lliis comsI Ii;ii| s|)o1<('II liiiicli lo I)i siiiii' on very <'li';ir lolcnililv fin-iiin Kylicrof ;i moii' noitliiTii I.iihI. Hk- loflv nioiinliiins of wliidi wcicvi -l.iys from Ihc yV.wv whii'li Ihcy culled .liik;iii. :iiid v.hich llicy dcsciihcd '<'''i"li''ll.V- I'''' Ii''ii' il''- ISLANK. l:.") liiiilici'. some nl' tlic hers of wliicli were so liiij^c iiml imiiKMniis tliiit vln> had IVrfi iiciil ly •<> iillci' licf (•(dirsc t)\' seven kiiiils Id iivnid sliikiiie- iIh'Iii. She I'liM over the tail of lleiahl Sliual, which had h'ss lliaii ciMhleeii lathdins watei', and (tn the l;»th |iasse(| tlie ishnid, which ;i|,|icarcd dindy Itelween the cjnnils as two small ones. Tiie weather lircanic i'oe-;4'y, and the ship stood Tor the North nntil she ran thi-oiie'h tiic |i(tsition «d" tli(( land as j^iveii on the Admiralty cjiarts, U.N., and (■line to anchor in lorty-lwo ralhoms, in lalitnde 72";"")' N'., loneit nth; 171 S7' \V. in a few honrs the I'oi^ lil'teil, and a sudden ehaiin-e, jiccidiar to the Northern re;4ions, Hashed across the scene; it was so clear that t lie hori/on appeared wilhont linnt. No land or ap|)earance nl land conid i»e seen from the royal yards. 'The water, as lar as tli(^ i\c could rea(di, was entirely l're(i Irom ice, but. tlii! weather heeanie ;ii4ain ro[,f;4'V. ( 'onimandei' Hodi^'ers, liavinj^ accomplished what he had prtiposed, and heine' assni'ed that. a. lonj^c^r exposure n; the weat her, however, unhappily prevented ihe scciirine' ol" satisl'actory results uidil lurthei' ohserval ions were made from on hoard the ship; hut these jilaced the island in a dil'lerent |insilion Irom that f.^iven i)y Captain IveUetl, tlie Sout heasteiri point licin;^ lixed hy the •• X'incenncs " in 71' lil' latitude N., 17r»" 'JO' ioni^i- liide \y . 'I'he island was i'oinul to have the form of a hali'-moon, its liurns heini;' connected hy a less elevated isthmus, which eave the ap- |ii araiice ol' ( here hein^' t W'o islands, i"(M' the isthmus nnelil he below liie hoii/ou, while liu! extremes arc; above it. Tiie sides were louiid I .ir I I'liiicciiii;^' somd way intd I lie sea, hclilii.l wliicli the sliorc hikIiIciiIv bi'coiiws Idw ;mil ll;il. '■iiii^isliii',' of Ljravl iiinl wcallirrcd rrMi^iiiciils ol' i-ock. 'I'lic iihicc ('niri--i)oii(liil piT- I'lclly, ill llii'sc ami oilier rfsiici'ts. widi tlic (|i'scri|ilinii wliidi (lie chicrs li;iirds, whicli were txcci'dingly numerous and so tame as to be caught by the hand. At iiiioii Herald Island about three miles distant. Xo other land in sight I'lijin royal yard, with a clear horizon to north and northwest. Lati- tude observed 71° 21' 3(3" N." The log of the 16th. " Distance from Herald Island, per log, lOO^ miles. Ice seen from deck from S. to VV. b}' N., packed, and as ffr as ♦.lit (y(! can reach from the top masthead. At 8.80 tacked ship, a bar- riti' of ice extending from S. to N. W. Sent lookouts aloft ; weather char. Could see a radius-' of thirty miles; no laiid in sight except Herald Island." The log of the 17th. "Latitude 68° 45' 20". From eight to merid- ian soun(^ed every hour ; twenty-eight fathoms ; bottom, soft mud and shells. Found the surface current .584 knot per hour, N. W. ; at two i'athonis' de[)th .642 knots per hour; at five fathoms' depth .817 knots licr hour, N. W. ; at fifteen fathoms' depth .758 knots." The log of the 18th. "Passed a large log of drift-wood; water whitish-green color. At 6.05 A.M. made the coast of Asia, distance forty miles; high volcanic cone; land in view along the southern board, ail elevated pi'onn)ntory, supposed to be C'ape North. A large number ol' birds of different species." 1 it 1 1 ■ M w V r:ii If : n 1 ' ': l' ; ■ \'.\ ■■':■] ' f 'i i ( i i !'' ;,■ ^1 ■' 1 : 1 i i p 'll I ! 128 AMKUICAN KXI'LOUATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. 'riic •■ Niiici'iiiK's"" iKAV rail lor VVraiigoll Land. On tlio lOtli tlnj weatlitT was lon^v, masses ot" iee floated near, ami a wall-like buriici' was heloie the sliip. She was within ten miles of the position of Wriin,<;ell Land, in tiie ie[ioi'ted Polynia, or open sea. in hit. 70° 41'. Ion. 177° '2\' W., wlien thus arrestecL No land eoiild In- seen, though ii was thought the vision extended six or eight miles in every direct inn. Tlie ("ominander "had, with some reluctance, stood lor this land, Irom an unwillingness to take so much time from the ])eeuliar duties ot the Expedition; hut he had known that no keel had j)eiietrated where lie proposed to go, and that a knowledge ot" the depth, the tem^ieratuic. and the currents would he ol" value ii" land should not he diseovereil. He had attained the limits which he had ])roj)Osed for his cruise, and penetrated further than anyone in the direction selected." He gaxc orders to return, ('(tntinuous adverse head-winds from the northeast permitted the rounding of J'^ast Cape on the 81st only, on which daw with evi'iy ap[)earaiiee of a gale, the '•• Viiicennes,"' making eleven and a half knots, ran into St. Lawrence Hay, after making a survey of whi( li hay, she again headed south on Sei)teniber 8. and on the r)tli airivi d at Semiavine Straits, where slie t"ound tiie Ohserving I'arty left tlicic in ^August, safe and in good health. On till' day ])revious, while l^ieuteiiant IJrooke, accompanied hy several of his party, were in pursuit of a bear, on tlie Island Thirkl.)()k ill (xlasenaj)]) Harbor, from the heiglit of a si)ur of the mountain Ihcy had been delighted Avilh the sight of a shi]t at such distance as id appear like a baidar, but with all her sails identifying her as the sloo]!- of-war. At night he made the usual rocket and other signals. On the 6th two guns were lired to assure Commander IJodgers of the safety nf the iiarty; the " V^incennes,"" rounding the point with her broad pen- nant Hying, answered a salute of thirteen guns from the camping pai'i\. Commander Kodgers on landing fulfilled his promise to the Cli:urveys of the harbor being completed, a line of soundings was run at ilic entrance of the Strait, and its outward passage exanrliied by Lieu- tt'iiints Brooke and Fillebrown and Mr. Knorr. On tlie 24th the pas- >w^e through the Aleutian chain was made by night, through the Straits h examination, the Southern Jsles I)eing very incorrectly charted; some of them re[K)rted l>y whalers to be a dearie furtlicr cast than their true positions. The noith side of .lesso, or Matsmai, also rc(|niri'd survey. If possible, a [)ort should \h'. opened -f(»r the whalers, since they i)ass alon^' its shores, and mi_<;ht ivceivo supplies not available on the Kamtsehatka coast, their next stoppinj^'-placo. Ijotli the ap[)roaches to the Amoor Kivei- were recommended for exaniiim- tion ; and that the river itsell' be visited, not so much for the valu(^ of its channel, so continually chan_t;'in<4' and uni)ro(itable, as to learn the resources of the country and the wants of the people, with whom ;i useful connnerce might be established. It min'ht beconu^ one ol' llic links in our tiade with China and .Ia[)an : ''The I'ertility of the soil of the Amoor is almost prolitless to the Uussians throuL;'h their want of laborers; but every want can Ix^ suftplied fiom the I'nited States more readily than from the interior of Uussia. And as the country produces nothing to make up a return cargo, tlu^ money received for goods fiom a trader might be laid cut with advantage, and in a very short time in purchases in Japan or China." A new survey was recommended for the Ishantee Islands, of which the Russian charts were found insuilieicnt : further examinations also of the Clulfs of .lamsk, .lijiginsk, and the harbor of liolcharltsk, hit. h'!" 50' N., Ion. lot) E., near which the right whale is sought. Numerous iVmerican vessels annually cruise there. These suggestions, with others from the oHicers of the s |Uadroii, were made in answer to the very careful instructions given to each by Commander Rodgers, in which he never lost sight of the origin;!! purposes of the Expedition, — those of survey's, of imiuiries for hai- bors, for the stcpplies of the mercantile marine, and especially fur the localities in which coal could be found. It would seem that he anticipated at that day the rapid substitution of steam for sail \\ itliiii ^'■' TH1-: UNi'L'i5Lisiii:i) uKi'oirr. 131 tlir iiiercantilo iiiariiic, iiiid to this tlu; exi)erieiu'i'S (if the Kxjicditioii iiiii>l havi! IimI thr thoughts of liis otlii'ers. Oil the return ol" the Coinuuinder to Washii!l(U-ed and sounded, while the scurvy had attacked the majority of ofiicers and men. On her return, encountering an obstinate east wind, it was for days doubtful that she could make her escape before the rapidly gathering ice would imju-ison her, — an event bringing certain destruction. With a reduced complenuMit of oilicers, the lalxn- of the surveys was [jcrformed in addition to the duties of actuid sea service in those regions of tempestuous character. In connection with such a record it would have been giatifving to find in the " Statutes-at-Larg(! " the passagi; of a Hesolution similar to tliose by which ('ongress declared its a])[)reciation of like services by other Expeditions. The ])recedents for such action seem, however, to have been in this case ignored. H!:^ ' 'W I :( iii ii ■! C U A V T E K V. EXPJ.OKATIONS OF DiJ. ISAAC 1. IIAYKS. (ISCiO-lSOl.) DESIGN OF DK. HAYES FOR A NEW EXI'LOHATION SUGGESTED WTIILK ON HIS FIRST VOYAGE WITH KANE. — HIS PLANS SUTM'OltTEl) RY Till; SMITHSONIAN AND OTITEP. INSTITUTIONS. — SAILS FROM ROSTON WITH SONNTAG, JULY 7, 18(50. — ARRIV^ES OFF rH(>VEN ON Till; twenty-fourth day out. — adds to his ship's company and supplies at upeknavik. — crosses melville bay in fifty-fivi, hours to cape york. — winters at pout foulke. — observa- tory set up. — observations made. — experiences of tiih 8eason. — death of sonntag, hans' atjcount of it. — tiih arctk; night descuiibed. — attempts to launch the boat on the polar ska. — iirjhest point reached. — belief in thk existence of the open sea confirmed. — experiences of hecent navigators compared with this. — explorations and survey., made 0>, the return voyage to the united states. — purpose of a new expedition. — re(.'eption of the gold medals from abroad. — volumes published. • Tlll'j next Aint'iicun Arctic Ex])l()rati()ii on the Northeiistorn coast was effected by Dr. Hayes, surgeon of the second Grinnell Ex])e- dition. A new voyage had suggested itself to him during even the severe experiences of his former cruise in the "Advance " ; but it did not become practicable until the si)ring of the year 1800. His plans included an extensive sclienie of discovery. The proposed route was again to be by way of Sniith's Sound, and his objects wei'c to ('oinplete the survey of the north coasts of Greenland and (Jriimcll J>.and, and to make further explorations towards the Pole, in order ' . verity the existence of the re[)orted oi)en Polar sea, and carry forward investigations in the different branches of scientific inquiry. On the former voyage he )iad traced (irinnell Land beyond the eightietli parallel, and he now ho]ied to push a vessel into the ice-belt there, and thence transport a boat over it into the open water of the great basin which he hoped to find beyond. 132 tl ' DK. ISAAC I. HAYES, SUIUiI':ON OP TUK SKCONM (iUINXELL EXPEDITION, COMMANDKU OF THE EXPEDITION OK ISGO-Cl. Author of "Tlni Opoii Polar Sea," "An Aretii; Hoa Jdiirney," "The Land o* Desr>la- tion," etc. MinhvUist of the Koyal Geographical Societ • of l.oiuloii, and of ilie SociM de Oiogmphie of Paris. . !, hi ! I u yvfl^ 'I'lie I ('(liist Sii Sliitcs ; \ ils siicce.^ I lie Ivoyjl t'roin the lii KNxiuei lixiteditii tidiis wer wise plan use lior st Tl.c fo three tons "I'liKed ^ who, sinct work ill JVi Dudley 01 lie was tli criiitse. 1 From t I'iiir e(niipi from Mr. cldtliing, } Kane's in July 7, the outer ( day out, ii at one tini the schoon On the salute and a day had Hooded ch( After h except the HAILlN(i OF THK "INITKI> STATES. m\ The Kxj)e(liti()ii received the siiitpcirt of tlic Siiiitlisoiium, i\w U.S. Coast Siuvcv, and the seieiitilic societies ot'tlie lirst liiiik in the United Suites; wiiilc from iiluoad v;\uw. tiie wiirniest ('X[)n'ssions t)f rcf^fiird for its success, coniinunical('(l hy Sir Uoderiek 1. Mnrchison, l*r('si(h!nt of ihf Uoyal (Jeof]^rai)hicul Society, l^ondon ; with a lil)eral contribution iVoiii the Vice-President of tlio Societd de (i^ographit; of Paris, M. (h> > la Uoqiiette. Through the interest manifested by tlic friends of the lOxpedition in New York, PiiiUulelphia, IJ(»ston, and All)any, contribu- tions were secured sullicient to equip one vessel; — the original and w isc i)hui of Dr. Hayes to have two, one t)f them a small steamer, to , use licr steam-power only in the ice, was found impractical)]e. Tlic fore-and-aft schooner "S[)ring Hill," of one hundr(!d and thirty- three tons, was purchased at Boston, her name being changed to the '•Tnited States"; a change legalized by Congress. Mr August Sonntag, \vli(;, since his return with Dr. Kane, had been engaged in scientific work in Mexico, declined an appointment as Associate Director of the Dudley Observatory, Albany, to be the astronomer of the Expedition, lie was the only educated person on whom Hayes could call on the cruise. T]Jie party numbered in all fifteen persons. From the Smithsonian and the Coast Survey, ITayes had received a fair e(piipment for scientific investigations, su})j)lemented by additions from Mr. Tagliabiie and Mr. Green of New York. The outfit of clotiiing, provisions, and ammunition was far better than that of Dr. Kane's in 180.3. . July 7, 18()0, the ship sailed from Boston haibor. Uj)()n her course for the outer Capes of Newfoundland, inside of Sable Island, on the second (lay out, a dense fog settled down for the anxious term of six days, — at one time the black wall of the breakers closing f,ist upon her, until the scliooner came round to the wind, aiul a steady helm saved all. On the 30th, the crossing of the Arctic circle was celebrated 1)V a salute and a display of bunting : the average run of one hundred miles a (lay had been made for twenty days; at midnight, sunlight still Hooded cheeringl}'- the cabin of the " United States." After her first heavy Arctic experience, the loss of all her canvas except the mainsail while passing through Davis Strait, by August 3 '"'.'Mil ^f:!' rrV 1 1 ;■• i 'i 1 '1 ! 1 i hi r \ \ i ■ ! m ' *^! l:U AMKltHAN KXIM.OltATlONS IN TIIK Mi: ZdNKS. she Aviis hilt loi'ty iiiilcH iVoiii I'riivcn, mid Hiiycs iiidulgrd the iilcusin.; Iii)|)(! (>r ill! early laiidiiii; ; Imt the wind suddenly diitd mil, keepinij Ini oil" thu hind till the Iweiity-rntiith day ol' llieii- voyai^'e, when llu; harhm was entered ; the U)'^ then lil'tin^', ( Jreenland, with its hroad valleys, (le(|i ravines, nionntains, and I'ntwninin' lilael< and desulate elilTs, was iti t'nll sit^ht, and ieeheri^ after ieeberu' hurst into view like castles in a lairN tale. IJELTED ICEHKUCi, A.s sei'ii by ('. V. Hull on his Urst exiic(liti(Pii. Isil". (Harper Urotliers.i " It seemed," says Hayes, "as if we liad hoeu drawn hy some unseen liand into a land of enehantment ; here was the Valhalla of the sturdy N'ikings, here the city of the Sungud Fryer, — Alfheim wdth its ellin eaves, and (tlitner more hrilliant than the sun, the home of the hai)|iy: and there, piercing the clouds, was Ilimnhorg, the celestial mount." At midnight he wrote in his diary: "The sea is smooth as glass, not a I'ipple hreaks its surface, not a hreath of air is stirring. The sun hangs close upon the northern horizon ; the fog has hroken up into light clouds; the icebergs lie thick about us; the dark headlands stand boldly out against tlie sky ; ajul the clouds and bergs and mountains IIAVKS AT ri'KIINAVIK. !:!;> ;iiv liatluMl in :iii iitinosphcrc of i-iiiiisoii iiixl ^^oM iiinl ])nr|il(' most M .'^iilai'ly l»'iiutil'iil. Tlic mIi- is wnnii iiiiiiost as a siiiniiicr iiinlit at liiiiiKS iilid \»'t tlicic aic the icfltciHs ami the lilcak iiioiiiitailis. Tlic sky i^i '"''K'''t» ^""' '""' iiis|)iriiii;' as ilic skies of Italy; the hcii^'s lia\c lost their cliilly apitcaraiicc. aiitl. ;^litt(>riii^' in tiic l)la/.(> ol' tlu' Inilliani liiaVL'iiS, Bt'cni in the distanci like masses cil' huiiiislitMl metal or solid llanie. Nearer at hand they are h\igo blocks ol' Parian marhle, inlaid I 1'i;i;navik. \ isiicil liy the r.S. S. •'.luuial.i,"' Ciiiil. I'.riiiiii', .Inly ;il, 1.->T.'!. , Willi mammoth n'ems of pearl and jn'oM. 'I'lie lorm oL" one is not unlike tlint of the Colisenm, and it lies so i"ar away that iialt' its height is buried lieneath the blood-rod waters. The sun, slowly rolling' alono; the li(iri/.on. passed behind it, and it seemed as it' the old Roman ruin had >iiddenly taken lire." In the enjoyment of su(di views the exph)rers liuried their temporary disa[)|>ointment at not landing' on the new hi'.ids; the twenty-fourth day brought them into Proven. At L'])ernavik the ship's company was increased by the addition of six persons: Jensen, n Dane who had lived ten years in (ireenland, eidisting as an interj)reter, three natives as hunters and dog-drivers, ■1:1 1 i ,.,.XlJ 4IM i , 1 '1: ii ' ' 1 : '1 ' 1 i t; ■ i ii i i • • ■ 1 1 1 ! i I. .; ri 136 AMERICA.^ EXl'LOUATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. and two Danes as sailors. J^etteis being committed to the care of Dr. Rudolph, the retiring chief trader, who was about to return to Denmark, and would transmit them to tlie L'nited States through the American Consul at Copenhageii, the ship again left the coast, heading north. Tessuissak — '■''the place where t^o.re is a hay'' — was reached on the 21st, where, as at t'^e phices previously visited, the Danish of'Hccrs extended every facility in tiieir power to the ship's company. Arctic clothing and dog-teams were furnished, the number of the teams being, however, small, in consequence of a recent prevalent disease among the dogs. On the 23d. Melville Bay was entered in a thicj< snow-storm, but the crossing was effected without encountering much ice; — a confirma- tion of Llie lemarkable diversity of experience in this water so often adverted to by Arctic explorers.* The passage to Cape York was made in lifty-iive hours. When nearing tiie Cape, and keei)iiig a lookout for the appearance of natives, very soon some were seen running down to the sea, among whom was Hans Ilendrick, who jiromptly recognized his old companions, Mayes and Sonntag. and desired to join them. With his wife and babe he was taken on board ; but to prepare the new- party for the wearing of the dress of civilization, the sailors soon ser upoi. :hem with the use of tubs of warm water, soa[), scissors, and th^ coml). * " Tlu' whalers liave long called by the iiaim' of Melville Bay the expansion of Balliii Bay which begins at th" south with the "mitliUe ice,"' and tonninatcs at the north with the '* Nonh Water." The North Water is sometimes reached near Cape York, in httitiidi' 76*^, but more frequently higher up, and the middle ice, which is more generally known as the "pack," sometimes extends to the Arctic Circle. The pack is made up of drilting ice-floes, varying in extent from feet to miles, and in thickn<>ss from inches to fathom-*. These passes are sometimes pressed closely together, and having but little or no o\h^\\ space between tlu^jn. and sometimes they are V(;ry widely sciiaiated, depending upon wind and time. The pem^tration of this barrier i« usuiilly an undertaking of weeks or months, and is ordinarily attended with nnich risk. The "Fox," under the command of Captain F. L. McClintock, IJ.X., was caught ;n the pack on the 18th of August, IS.^)?. in latitude 7.")' 17' N.. longitude 62'' 10' ^V.. and was not liberated until the 25th Ai^ril, 1858, an interval of two hundred .and fifty days, during which period the vessel drifted to latitude (i;}"47'X., longitude . '56° 3(5' W., 1,1!M geographical miles to the southward. — per'iaps the longest drift recorded up to date. [The drift of the floe party of the I^.S.S. " Polaris " under Tyson was from latitude 77° '^>'> N., to latitude U2,° .30' N., — a distance of over 1,200 miles in 190 days.] 'lh^l^:« m WINTER QUARTERS. ^:^r The cDast-line now presented the reappearance of the traj) I'onnatiou of tlio island of Disco, and showed a h^fty ragj.(tMl front, brctkcn hy din')) nijigos of picturesque view, numerous streams of ice bursting throngh tlicin. At Cape Athol, on the soutiiern side of Wostenholme Sound, the igneous rocks give i)hice to lines of calcareous sandstone and greenstone. August 20, the ship reached a point a little to the north of the i)osi- tidii of the old seaman, JJallin, in 1610, and of Captain Ross, U.K.. in 1H18. twenty miles south of Cape Alexander, the entering Caj)t' of Smith's Sound. At the mouth of this strait an ice-pack forbade (•iiUiiuce, a second ut+empt being entirely frustrated by a gale which (hdve the ship off. A lodgment was secured only at the close of the sixth day. It was, however, a disappointment of the most serious character to Hayes to find that he could not hojje to cross the Sound, for he had expected from the first, as has been shown, to make a mnr«i siRcessful advance from the western side than Kane had been able to (■ITcct from Rensselaer Bay. In a little harbor of ila; tstene Hay, lati- tude 78° 17' 41" N., longitude 72° 30' 57" W., ten miles northeast (if (ape Alexander, and twenty south of Kane's harbor in 1854-5"), winter quarters were of necessity prepared. The position was mimed Pdit Foulke, but from Foulke Fiord the chances of a successful ad- vance in the succeeding si)riug were much . showeil a downward movement of the glacier of ninety-four feet. A Journey upon it, and upon the 3L;r de Crlace to the east.v'ard, carried the explorers about tifty miles iidand, revealing a surface at iirsc broken and irregular, but, as tlu' ]>arty advanced, smooth and Avitli a regular ascent. Tiieir angle of ascent in tiavelling was at the outset six degrees, decreasing graduidly to two. The elevation reached was about live thousand feet; but with the winter had come tlu; UMial iiiid \('ry serious misfortune of the loss of the teams, on which any explor- ation depended for success. TIIK DKATH OF ,MK. SON ^■ TAG. Far more distressing than this was the deatl; of Mr. Sonntag, wlin perished in the ice on his way w'ith Hans to visit the Es^*inios at or near Whale Sound, in order to purchase dogs or to bring the natives to the shi{». where, for the service of their teams, they could be fed, and the prospective wants of the ship's company be also looked after. December 22, as there was, in Hans' opinion, a probability that the Eskimos would be congregating about Cape York, and that some of them might be at Sorfalik, or at other stations on the north side ol' Whale Sound, the two travellers were on their way, hoping that they wcjuld find natives without going as far as Northumberland Island, but pre])are(l. as the\ sui)posed, to go e\-en th.it far. Their provisi(uis were nuide \i\) but for twelsc days, and they took no tent, intending to HANS ACCOUNT OF SONNTAti S DEATH. 1:^9 iclv (»n the siiow-liut, with tlie construction of which Hans and Sonn- iai; were both tuiniliur. The hitter hud his sleepin<:f-bag, and was in lii^li spirits at the prosi)ect of a few days' adventin-e. The night following, Hayes, whether from a natural anxiety for their safety, or from this in connection with the small prospect now left of success if they should return without assistance from the natives, luul a singular and foreboding dream, which may be placed to tlie iiccoiuit of like coincidences so fre([ueiitly arising out of the conscious- ness of uncertainty in times of serious solicitude, but without the pos- >il)ility ot one's being able to account for the foreshadowings vhicli tli(.'V jirov(! to have been. He thought he stood far out on the frozen sell with Sonntag, when »uddeiily there came a crash, and a crack (i|itiiiiig between them, Sonntag sailed away upon the rough waters, lie last saw him, as he thought, sharjily outlined against a streak of Iii4lit on the distant horizon ; but he was gone. On the last day of the month Hans came in, but aecompanietl only li\ liis wile's brother, who had assisted him on the journey. His sad st(»iy tu the doctor soon told all. They had rounded Capo Alexander, and, without halting, had reached Sunderland Island, made their own snow- hut, ac Sorfalik, and proceeded ou their way to Northumberland Island; liiit there the Astronomer, growing a little chilled, sprang off the sledge, ;iii(l ran ahead to warm himself by exercise, when suddenly Hans saw him siidving througli the thin ice upon which he had come, which (ovcrcd :i recently opened tide-track. He drew him out, but the chill was too severe for Mr. Sonntags life. In the "Memoirs of H.ms Hendrik, translated from the Eskimo by Dr. Rink, Director of the Greenland Board of Trade," Hans gives his nwii moi'c full account of this calamity: — •'In winter, just before Christmas, the Astronomer and 1 undertook a .lomiiey by sledge to look for natives. We crossed [passed by?] the Liri at glacier, and travelled the whole day [of course only twilight, thcie being continual night] without meeting with any people. A string wind sprang up from the north, and caused a thi(tk drifting of siidw, while we mad6 our snow-hut and went to sleep. On wakening (he ii('.\t day. it still bUnv a gale and the snow drifting dreadfully, for j tP^n^MI 1 5 ;■ j ^r PI Ml 5 I ;: i I '1 1 .r :i. j{* 140 AMERIPAN EXPLOItATIONS IN THK ICK ZONES. ■which reason we resolved to return. While we proceeded homewiuds the ice began breaking uj) ; so we were forced to go ashore and con- tinue our drive over the beach-ice [ice-foot]. We arrived at a small firth and crossed it, but, on trying to proceed by land on the otlu r side, it proved impassable, and we were obliged to return to the \rv again. On descending here my companion fell through the ice, whicli was nothing but a tliick sheet of snow and water. I stoojjcd, but was unable to seize him, it being very low tide. As a last resort, I remem- bered a strap hanging on the sledge-})oles ; this I threw to him, and when he had tied it around his body I pulled, but found it very dilli- cult. At length I succeeded in pulling him up. but he was at tli. point of freezi g to death ; and now in the storm and drifting snow lie took off his clothes and slipped into the sleeping-bag, wIu'reuj)on I placed him upon the sledge, and repaired to our last resting-[)lace. "Our road ueing very rough, I cried from despair for want of licln : but I r'^ached the snoAV-hut, and brought him inside. I was, however, iniable to kindle a fire, and was myself overpowered with cold. My comjjanion grew still worse, although ])laced in the bearskin bag, Imi with nothing else than his shirt. Hy-and-by liis breathing gicw scarcer, and I ioo began to feel extremely cold, on account of now standing still, after having perspired with exertion. During the wlmle night my friend still breathed, but he drew his breath at long intervals. and towards morning only very rarely." . . . After detailing his own severe sufferings, and his return to tlie brii;-. and the assistance given him on the way by some friends and relatives. Hans continues: — "On my arrival I found my dear wife tolerably well ; but I could not be lia[»py, since I left that friend of mine who had loved me* so kindly, and who also, some winters before, when we spent three yeais together, had treated me with such goodness. Our (^ommander Ese, [Hayes] was gladdened by my arrival, as he had believed me to l)e lost. He inquired where I had left my friend. I replied, 'On leaving- him I covered him entirely Avith snow; now I will soon go to fetch his corpse.' But he said, 'When the days grow longer thou may'st go lor it; but now first try to get some reindeer; we are longing for reindeer meat." i HANS MKMOIHS OF HIMSELF. 141 '• I then remained several days to await a brigliter season. The first (lav I went out shooting I got a large rein-buck. Afterwards I hunted cu'iy day, sometimes bringing home two deer, sometimes three. At last, when bright sunshine had begun, a sledge arrived, which was I'l Imaged to accompany me. We also got the ship's mate for our com- liaiiioM. When we arrived we dug among the snow, and brought forth the (lead man, still enveloped in his bag. I feared the foxes might liave eaten the body, but even the bag was quite untouched. We deposited him in my sledge, the mate folh)\ved with my comrade, and wo came back to the ship in the evening. They brought the corpse into the Captain's cabin for him to thaw. The next day, wiien I saw our Commander, he said, ' I thank thee for thy liaving taken care (d linn. * The simplicity of the narrative of Hans, shown throughout his wliole story of the four Expeditions in which he was engaged, seems I'ully to justify tlie conclusions at which Dr. Hayes, after much anxiety, arrived, as to the fidelity of the native in this matter. At iirst there sctMued ground for the suspicion that the object of the i)ro])osition w lien it came from Hans, to visit the Cape, was in reality to visit his ichitives there, and bring them up to be near him ; for now three of iluMu were on board ship. Nor was it at all satisi'actory to have had no * raptaiii Nares says of Hans, wlicu employed by him, " He provetl to be an admirable liiintcr and an excellent doj^-driver. When a lad of nineteen years (in IS.");]) he joined Dr. Kane's e.vpedition. After rendering invaluable services to his eonipanions during their two winters' stay at Rensselaer Harbor, Sniitli Sound, he married Merkat, the (lauiilitor of Shangliu, one of the ' Aretie Highlanders,' who tended him while lying sick at llartstene IJay. He remained behind with his wife when Dr. Kane abandoned his ves.'^cl and travelled south to Upernavik in boats. " In 1800, after he had passed five years with the 'Arctic Highlanders,' Dr. Hayes, find- in;^ Hans at Cape York, took him and wife and child on board his vessel, the ' United States.' On the homeward voyage, in 1801, he was landed, with his belongings, at llper- iKivik. In 1871 he joined Ciiptain Hall, in the 'Polaris,' taking his wife and three chil- (hcn with him. He was one of the party who was separated from th(> ' Polaris' in 'i gale of wind, and drifteil during the long winter of 1872-7;} from .Smith Sound to the south- w;inl of Hudson's Straits. During this time he and Joe — another Eskimo — preserved the lives of their companions by their indefatigable and noble exertions in hunting and Iifocnring seals." " Hans' Memoirs," translated by Dr. Piink, and edited by Dr. Stevens, is a cm-ious pro- diK'tion, interesting by its simple native expressions, some of which could not bear precise tr;iiis!atloii. The visit to New York and Washington will anmse the reader. l:'M -ni if 14 J .MKl;lv the assistance of Mate Henrv Dodiic; oT th le ship, who went down to .SorialiK with two doy'-leanis, one driven hy Hans and one hy a native who liad come into the shij). Ilaiis without (lifliculty recoo-nized the locality by a rock lu'ar hy, but the remains were disinterred with extreme labor, the winds haviiii;- piled up the snow to the complete buriid of the hut. 'I'lie tlieriiioiiietcr stood at I'oiiv desi'rees below zero. i\[r. Soiiiitan'*s body was placed 'v\ the Observatory, 'mvIkm'c his tine mind had been intent, a lew weeks btd'ore, on [iiirsnits tlie dcdij^ht of his life, '" until a j^rave was dug ill the iVo/.en lerrat'c: then the burial service was read, and al'terward a neat mouml raised, with a chiselled inscription Al(;isr SOXNTAG. J)ii:i), l)i:( HMiiiaj i-'S, 1808, Aufd "JS vciirs. A cr(jss surmounted the monument. !i! ; The ex[iericace of the weary Arctic night of months, in place o\' the days which the inhal)ilaiit of happier (dimes enjoys, has been spread * la llic vt'slil)uU' of the Diulli'v (Hisci-vMidry, Alliaiiy, liaiiu's ii iKirtriiit, (if llic ymiim astrniioiiicr. I'ndcr it, arc the sad words, " rcrishcil in llic ici; at I'ort, Foullic, iatitiiilr 78M7' 14" X., t)ciHMiilicr-_'S. ISC.O." On llic faded T'liiti'd States lla;;- drajied aliove tlie vouiiij; iiian's lu'ad are llie Wdids. •■ l-'ruiii his class in Alliaiiv Female Acadeinv, .June, I S( ;().■■ .M; I>r. !■: Mill licssels and .Mr. I!. W. D. IJrvan, of the I'. S. S. " I'uhiris wlie/i visiting; I'ort Foiilke. found the Astroiicnicr's t,'ravc despoiled liy the t'skimos, fm' the sakf of tli(> wood of liis cofliii. The travellers reiikieed th(3 reniaius, relilled th(! grave. and reset the hiadslmiL'. IJ 1 ; : i! 1 : 1- i I i ■I I I 144 AMEUICAN KXPLOUATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. II V the records of all Arctic explorers; and the wonderful power of al adaptation in luau to the slrange circiunstances in which he ilnds himself when in the new regions of darkness — the peculiar scii- tinients which such changed relations inspire — ai<5 most forcibly and happily expressed in the volume from which most of the precedimr narrative is drvwn. A citation from Hayes' cournal will be api)ro- ciated: "January 10, 18(il. Our eyes now turn wistfully to the Soutli. eagerly watching for the ti[) of Aurora's chariot, as the fair goddess of the morning rises from the sea to drop a ray of gladness from her rosy tinj. ris int(/ Lhis long-neglected world. It is almtjst a month .;ince we passed the darkest day of winter, and it v»ill be a long time yet bel'mv we have light; lat it is time for us now to have at noontime a faint flush upon the horizon. A faint Lwilight tiush mounting the southern sky to-day at the nuM-idiau hour, though barely ^xMccptible, was a cheering sight to all. We feel that the veil of night is lifting, thai tlic cloud is passing away, that the load cf darkness is being lightened. . . . "The people liavi; exliausted their means of am.isement; we long for the day and for Avork. Talk as you will of piuck and of manly amusement, this Arctic night is a severe ordeal. It is a severe trial to the moral auf"- the hitellectual faculties. The cliec^'ing influences sif the rising sun, which invite to labor; the soothing influences of tlic I'ln/.fii son, and listened to tlif voice of tlu; icebergs, bcwailinpf their iiii|,ris(»nnient ; along the glacier, where forms and falls the avalanclie ; ii|, nil the hill-top, where the drifting snow, coursing its M'ay over the Micks. >^i\ng its plaintive song; and again I have wandered away to the ,li.>i;iiir valley, where all these sounds were hushed, and the air was ...lill and solemn as the tomb. "And here it is that the true spirit of the Arctic night is revealed, w hcic its v.'onders are unloosed, to sport and play with the mind's vain iiiia"inings. The heavens above and the earth beneath reveal only an tiidk'ss and fathondess quid, there is nowhere evidence of life or iiKttion; 1 stand alone amidst the mighty hills ; their tall crests clind) ii|i\\ard, and are lost in the gra}^ vault of the skies, their dark cliffs, standing against their sloi)cs of white, are the steps of a vast amphi- theatre. The mind, finding no rest on their bald summits, wanders nitd si)ace; the moon, weary with long vigil, sinks to her repose: tiie IMeiades no longer breathe their sweet inlluencciij Cassiopeia and Andromeda and Orion, and all the inliiute host of the unnuml)ered constellations, fail to infuse one spark of joy into tliis dead atmosphere ; they have lost all their tenderness, and are cold and pulseless. The eye leaves them and returns to earth, and the trembling ear awaits something that will break the oppressive stillness. But no footfall of living thing reaches it, no wild beast howls through the solitude. There is no cry of bird to enliven the scene; no tree among whose hranches the winds can sigh and moan. The pulsations of my own heart are alone heard in the great void; and, as the blocd courses through the sensitive organization of the ear, I am oppressed as with discordant sounds. Silence has ceased to be negative ; it has become endowed with positive attributes. I seem to hear and see and feel it. !l stands forth as a frightful spectre, tilling the mind with the over i>owering consciousness of univers-j death, — proclaiming the end of all tluiigft iuid heralding the everlasting future. Its presence is unen- durable. I spring from the rock upon which I have been seated ; I plant my feet heavily in the snow, to banish its awful presence, and the sound rolls through the night and drives away the phantom. " I have seen no expression on the face of Nature so filled Avith terror as thk Silence op the Arctic Night." 1:; ii) iil a = V3 ^ •J3 - I:; the IllllliliiT III 4tli -f Ap ('(|iii{iiiieiit jiici\ i.-iuiis I'liiiricL'ii (I til ilir L-asI (Miir "f ice iiiipnssible ul' jiiisliiiig ]i;ill\. wiii Hill with t IdWid liy h tiiiif. riitei'i 11 [inilit toi shnic, lie aliM'iKe of fniiitceii hi iiiiiiii' (if Cii Fniiikliii B \V:l- >f(Mi, t( ( )ii Cajx l.^til. he u: cariit'd in i ll:iv('ii and IiiiIl^'cs in X -Mr. Suimta • iliii'^ation t 11 i^ icroi'd ( I^'Tf i'oulk( ;:lass vial 1) rii'' stay M;i\. a pen-io FfAVKS IIKiUKST POINT. 147 III the early Sitriiig- tho Kskiim s iciilenished the dog-teams to the iiuiiilM-r of twenty. Several, howevei-, died as bet'oi-e. With the rest a liin\ i>ioii dei»ut for the Summer use was soon estalilished, and on the 4tli it April, 1801, Hayes, with twelve ollieers and men, started out on |ii> pihicipal and long and still-eherished journey to the North. His (■i|iii|iiiient consisted of a metallic life-boat, mounted on runners, with |)in\i>ions for seven persons f(,r five months, and for six [)ersons and 1(1111 iriii dogs for six weeks. He was, however, again compelled to keep t,i till' L-astern shore, and, consequently, encountered the same experi- eiHv of ice-hummoeks with which Kane had met; and finally finding it iiiijKKsible to transport the boat brought out in the fond antiei[)ation ol' iiiishing it out on the Polar waters, he sent it back with the main pariv. while he continued the journey with two companions only. liui w ith these he reached the west coast by nearly the same track fol- li.ui il hy him in 1854, corrected some errors of the chart made at that tiuir. entered Kennedy Channel, and on the 16th of the month attained a }iiiiiit forty miles further north than Kane's highest on the opposite sIkuc. Returning in the same track, he reached his vessel after an aliMiKu of iiftv-nine days, and a journey of comings and goings of fduitceu hundred miles. To the highest point reached he gave the iiaiur of Cape Lieber. To the north lay the excellent bay named Lady Franklin Bay. In the far distance, north of Cape Beechey, a headland wa> -cell, to Avhich he gave the name of Cape Union. Ou (.'ai)e Lieber, latitude 81^ 35' N., longitude TO'' 30' W., May 18, Isill. he unfurled the United States boat's ensign which had been oanit'd in the Antarctic Expedition of Wilkes, and in those of De llavtii and Kane, with several other flags intrusted to him by Masonic 1( lilacs ill Xew York and Boston, and one presented to the lamented ^h. Sduntag by the ladies of the Albany Academy, being "under (iMi.:aiinii to unfurl all these at the most northern point attained." Hi- record of the visit, recounting his journey of forty-six days from Vnn Foulke, with his companion, Mr. Knorr, Avas deposited within a <;'lass vial beneath a cairn. riic stay in Kennedy Channel was from the 12th to the 23d of Ma\. a pwiod of the year six weeks earlier than the time when Morton H h't rn^ !ii I (Ems 14H AMKItUAN I:X1M.NS in TMK ICK ZONKS, rcportcil lo Kline an ii|i('ii sea in this cliiinncl and imrtli of it. l)r. ilaycs (lid not lind dpcii water, l)iit niiieli deeaye(l and thin iee. and ih f«ime [liaees piMtls ol' water; in iiiie, a llo(i< (if wateilowl, — the / . /./ (h'i)lltii\ Dovekies. He (»hserve(l sdiiie indications of "the reyinn in ^ii(( northward heing annually o|)ened." 'I'lie coast on the west >idc ni ''ieiuiedy Channel, esjiecially where e\|Mised to tho northeast, was iIih i| with ii heavy ridi^e (d' ice, which had been t'orced up under the inllu- eiice id' L;'reat [iressiire. Many of the masses wore as niiicli as >i\i\ ••L'NFlltLINO 'IIIK I'-i-AOS.' feet in iieioht, anil they were lyiuti' iiio'li and dry upon the l)eacli. 'I1i.' pressure necessary to occasion this result could not possibly be creatCMJ. lie thought, by ice-fields moving' over a narrow channel, and he lielieviMJ the result to liave been produced by ice-fields of great extent coihIiil; down under the influence of winds and tlie current from a vast o|'ii: area to the northward. As during his vo5'age with Kane, and afrci- ward upon this exploration, as well as tlirough the rest of his life. In' remained the steadfast advocate of tlie existence of '"tliis Open Pohir Sea," entitling tlius tlie volume in wlii(di lie gave to the world tin- account of this vovagc of 18G0; fre(iuentlv, also, bv lectures ainl HAVKSON AN Ol'KN TOLAU SKA. 14U MlH't'lt' clico . tliiMii^li tli«3 press, ui»li(»ltliiij; tluj theory, it will not he out of |pliice to iiirifilil him iimic i'wWy with his iirn'miients in his own laiij^nii^t'. His couvii'lioiis will \h^ i'()iiij»iU('(l hy tlu; rriider with tho experi- iikI views <»!' hiter ex]>lori?rs, t'Spi'cially those of Hall ami r.iidiiii^ton, of the "Polaris," and of ('ai)tain Nun^s, of tlu* Knj^lish li\|iiMlition (»f IhTA, to which a fuller reference is invited. Ill ('lia|i. XWII. of the volume just cited, after rcfci'rim;' the reader I,, liic ilircc hi'caks iu t!'.e lout;' line of Northern coast through which ih, wains of the Atlantic and I'acilic Oceans enter the Northern If oiu' trail's the currents on the map, and li;i>lii, Dr. llav cs savs () ()\\S the (Julf Stream as it Hows northward, [)ourin of the Tro[)ic Zone through the broad gateway east of Spitz- II ri>cn. and forcing out a return current of cold waters to the west of ^liii/lx rgen and through Davis Strait, he will very readily comprehend \Mi \. in this incessant displacement of the waters of the i'ole by the w, Iters of the Equator, the great biuly of the former is never chilled to witliiii several degrees of the iVee/iiig point ; and since it is |)robably I- dee]), as it is almost as broad, as the Atlantic between iMiropo and Ameiica, he will be prepared to understand that this vast b(»dy of w.iter tempers the whole region with a warmth above that "wliich is lihriw iM' natural to it; and that the Almighty hand, in the all-wise ili>|iensation ol" His ])ower, has thus placed a bar to its congelation: I lie will read in this another symbol of Nature's great hiw of circn- lioii. whicli, giving water to the parcliv:!d earth and moisture to the moderates as well the temperature of the Zones — cooling the ie with a current of water from the Frigid, and warming the I'ligid with a imrrent from the Tropic." •' bearing these facts in mind, the reader will perceive that it is tlie liire water only which ever reaches so low a temperature that it is Jill ;iil', I'liii -111 I ii;iiiged to ice; and he will also perceive that when the wind 'moves tlic smlace water, the jjarticles which have becon.e chilled by contact witli the air mingle in the rolling waves with the warm waters beneath. iiml lieiice that ice can ./idy form iu sheltered ])laces, or where the vater of souu' bay is so shoal, and the current so slack, that it becomes "hilled to the vcrv bottom, or where the air over the sea is uniforndy ) 1 1 '!! ill I i; !f t ( 4 •Mi m 1 ' 150 AMKHICAN KXPLOItATIONS IN THE ICK ZONES. calm. He will remeiubor, however, that the winds blow as ticicclv over the Polar Sea as in any other quarter ot" the world; and he will. therefore, have no ditheulty in coraprehendino- that the Polar ice ((ivns but a small part of the Polar water; and that it exists only wlieiv n is nursed and protected by the land. It clings to the coasts of Siberia. and springing thence across Behring Strait to America, it hugs di,. American shore, fills the narrow channels which drain the Pujar waters into Baffin Bay through the Parry Archipelago ; crosses thciuc to Greenland, from Greenland to S[)itzbergen, and from Spitsbergen td Nova Zembla, — thus investing the Pole in an uninterrupted land- clinging belt of ice, more or les« broken, as well in Winter as in Sum- mer, and the fragments ever inoving to and fro, though never widelv separating, forming a barrier against which all the arts and en.'rgies df man have not hitherto prevailed.' . . . "With the warm flood of the Gulf Stream pouring northward, iind keeping the waters of the Polar Sea at a tem[)erature alxixc ilie freezing }»oiut, Avhile the winds, blowing as constantl}' luider ihc Arctic as under the Tropic sky, and the eeascless curri-nts of the >,.;! and the (ide-llow of the surface kee[) the waters ever in I'loveuieni. ii is not p()ssi])le that even any considerabU' [xjrtion (d' this extensive -la can be frozen over. At no point within the .Vrctie Circle lias iluic been found an ice-belt extending, either in Winter or in Sunnner. niniv than from fifty to a hundred miles from land. And even in the nar- row channels sej)arating the islands of tlu; Parry Arehiiiela^o. m Baffin Bay in the North Water, and the mouth of Smith Siuind. — everywhere \\ithin the broad area of the Frigid Zone, the watei> will not freeze except when sheltered by the land, or when an ire-|iai'K. accumulated by a long continuance of A\inds from oui; ([uarter. iill'"'!- the same protection. 'I'hat the sea does not close except when ai i'>i. I had abuiulant reason to know during the late winter: Inr at aii times. e\('n when the temperature of liic air was below the iVei/ui:; point (d" mei'curv. I I'ould hear from the deck of the schooner the real of the beating waves." Influenced 'hielly by such indications as these, additioiialh i" his strong conlidenee in the extent of the open watci' repeated li\ .^^ NARKS OX AN OPEN POLAK SEA. l.')! 'l! Mmton, and by the observ.itions made by more than one Exph)rer of the migrations of animal life Northward, Dr. Hayes felt himself justi- ticd ill affirming that an open sea exists, and that both it and the N'.rtli Pole may be reached with steam vessels by pushing through the ii(-l)('lt, either through Smith's Sound, or by a I'oute west and north of Sjiitzbcrgen. In this conviction, he entertained, after his return, the hdpo of going back in the early part of the following Spring, and roacliing the Open Sea, if not in one season, in the next. His j)lans for this, however, were suspended instantly on his landing at Boston, 1)\ the news of the existing conflict against the Government, to which he iiiuiiediately offered his services and his shii). It will not be out of i)lace here, Avhile according the highest esti- mate of Dr. Hayes' ability and of his reasonings and convictions, to hring beside this nnich-discussed question of the Open Sea, the consid- eration which it has received by two of the later explorers, Nart'S and Koldwey. The exjjerience of the " Polaris,"' under Ca^jtain Hall, will lie stated in the notice of that American Exploration. In tlu^ Introduction to the "Narrative of the ICnglish Expedition of 1X7-")," under Captain Nares, Captain Richards, Ilydrographer to the .\(hniralty, says: "The latter-day theory of an o^jcu Polar Sea I'ests on III) l'!)undation, practical or philoso})lii('al. Even if it could l)e sliown that ii somewhat-higher mean temperatui'o is theoretically due in that ;ircii where the sun is for six consecutive months above the horizon, ;iii(l for a similar periotl Ix'low it, this W(»uld avail nothing; for the ilissohition of the Winter's ice is not (h'[)en(U'nt on tlie iniluence of the Siiiiinier's heat alone; otherwise the diflicnlties of Arctic navigation wiHihl (lisai)pear, at any rate for some sliort period, during every season. "A variety of other ehMiients ;ire e([ually as important. Chief aiiKUig them is tlie action of ilie winds and ti(h'S to break up tiio ilccaying lloes. l)ut ]»in'amount almve all others is the iiei;essity for sufli- cieiit outlets for the eseajte of the ice so broken up throughout tlie vast area of tlie Polar basin. These outlets we know do not exist : an iiisignilicant jioint of land, moreoNcr. w ill act as a \\C(lge, or the preva- lence of an unfavorable Avind for a few days at the critical period will >iiriici' to decide the (|Uestioii whetlu'r such inlets, so impoftaiit as ,.'ti[J 'ii ■i^ij V i li * II \i ■.i'L. ;, llf i I lAli AMEItlCAX EXPLORATIONS IN TMF. KJH ZONKS. W't'lliiii^toii Cliiuiiicl or Smith Soniid, will he closed or opoii suggestion of Captain Nares, recorded in his Journal of June 22, 18','(): "It would appear that the sun, miassist(Ml by other causes, is, after a cold winter, not sui'liciently powerful to ])ri»(luc(. a tliaw on a siu)w-clad ground until it attains an altitmle (if about 30°; if this is the ease, then at the XortI) ]*ole it is d(ud)triil whether the snow ever becomes melted;" antl fui-ther, the opinions of (\il)tain Feild(Mi. the naturalist of the Expedition, and his comrades, that animal and vegetable life "specifically and numerically nmst rap- idly decrease with every degree of northern latitude after passing the eighty-second parallel." Captain Feililen adds; "If, however, there ite an extension of land to tiie northernmost part of our globe, I see iio icasoii why a few sp( eics of bii'ds should not resort there to l)rce(l. There would still bt- sufMcit-nt summer, if such a term nuiy be used, fiU' the period of incubation ; and from what I have seen of the transport- ing ]iowers of the wind in drifting seeils over the frozen exjianse ol' the Polar Sea. 1 cannot doubt that a scanty llora exists at the Fole itself, if there be any land tliiTe, and that the abundance of insect-lilc which exists as high as the eighty-third degree will be i»res(,'nt at the ninelieth, suflicient to provide for a lew knots, sanderling's, and turn stones." 'I'o tliis may be added the rc'uark of Captain Koldwey, \si('ni of Greenland. lie prefaces the discussion by the statement thai his journey had been the first successful attemjjt till then made to |MMictrale into the interior over the Mer de Glace, the vastness of wliich inii)resscd him still more than on a previous visit. Ih^. then >a\s: "(ireenland may indeed be regarded as a vast reservoir of htr. ('|iiiii llic slo])es of its lofty hills, the downy sn(jwllake has become the liai'dcned crystal; and, increasing little by little from year to year and 111 nil century to c(Mitury, a broad ek»ak of frozen vapor has at length ruinpletely overspread the land, and along its wide border there jiour a ili(iiisaii(l crystal streams into the sea. [Coniirmed by Nordenskiold ill 188:}.] ''The manner of the glacier growth, beginning in some remote (■|i()('li. when Greenland, nursed in warmth and sunshine, was clothed \\ iiii vegetation, is a sul)ject of much interest to the student of i>hysi- cal geography. The explanation of the phenomena is, iiowever, greatly simplilied by the knowledge which various exi)lorers have eon- iiiliiitcd from the Alps, — a (juarter having all the value of (lu; (ireen- land iiioiintains, as illustrating the laws which govern the formation ami movements of numntain-i ;e, and which ])ossesses the imi)ortant advantage of greater accessibility. ... It was easy to ])erceive in tlu; L^'i.iiid old bed (yf ice over wliich 1 had travcdled, those same ])hysical markings which had arrestecl the attention of Ajjassiz and Forbes and Tviidall. and it was a satisfaction t(t have coniirmed by actual ex|»eri- iiu'iii in the ii(dd the retlcctioiis of the study — to be able to inake a iniiip irisitn between the Alpine and the Grei'iiland ice." 1 ■ 1- ^^ i'i ii t i . '\l i V'r. . •:: f!;i ., '\l\ i.i V r ;: h ,:, . ^^ h , :? ■'t '' ' 1 1 .' ■ ' '■' 1 i ! 'ii !N m ii||i * 154 A.MKUICAN KXPLOK (VTIONS IN TFIK ICK ZONKS. In drawing out this c'uiui)aris(>n, Dr. Hayes cites the (»])ini(tns of M. Le Chanoine liendii, Bishop of Annegy, wliose lifetime had b(>eii spent among the rugged crags and ice-clift's of the Aljjine mountains, ainl the results of whose investigations are to be found in the Memoirs n\' the Ro3'al Academy of Sciences of Savoy. The Abbe, in his ossii\. "comes to the very rational conclusion" that the glacier and the risci are lU effect the same; that between them there is a resemhlanec so comj)lete that it is ^'mpossible to tind in the latter a circinnstiinee wiiic h does not exist in the former; and as the river drains the irafrrx whicli fall nj)()n the hillsides to the ocean, so the glacier drains the /'•'■ wliidi lorms from the snows on the mountain-sides down to the same level. And he closes his argument with declaring the law : — "The conserving will of the Creator has employed for the ]hmiii;i- nence of Ills work the great law of circulation, which, strictly exaie- incd, is found to reproditce itself in all parts of Nature." 'I'd wliieh citations Dr. Hayes adds: "A gl.uMer is, in effcel. but a llowing stre;nii ot frozen water; and the rirer .si/stc'iitH ol" the Temperate and l^(|iiat(i- rial Z(ines become the glaeu'r systems of the Arctic and the Antardir. The iceberg is the discharge of the .Vrctic river, the Arctic river is ihc ghicier, ami the glacier is the ai'cumulatiou of the frozen vapors (•! ihe au'. ?.Ioving on its slow and steady course Frnm the distant hill>. ,ii length it reaches the sea, which tears fnuu the slotiiful strv'am a iiimi- sti'ous fragnuMit, taking back to itself its own again. Freed from liie shackles which it lias borne in silence through nuuuud)ered centuries, this new-b(ir]i child of the ocean rushes with a wihl boiuid inln iIm' arms of the parent water, wher<> it is caressed by the surf and miiM'i into life again : and the crystal (lro[)s r<'ceive their long-lost iVi i- (lom, and lly away on the huighing waves to catcii once more ili.' sunbeam, and to run auaiu their course through the long cvch' ( if liic ages." ^\n(l tiiis hu'hiTji has more signilicance than the great ilood whicu the glacier's southern sister — the broad Airazou — ])oui's intn tin ocean from the slojies of the Andes and the mountains of Iba/.il. Solemn, stately, and erect, in tempest and in calm it rides the deep. The restless waves resound through the broken archways and tlnunKi U' THE ETAH ESKIMOS. 1 ,')0 a'_;iiinst its adamaritine walls. Clouds, impenotrablo as those wliicli sliiclded the graceful form of Avethusa, clothe it in the nioniiiii; : iiii(h'r the bright blaze of the noonday sun it is armored in glittering silver; it robes itself in the gorgeovis colors of evening; and in the silent night the heavenly orbs are mirrored in its glassy surface. Drifting snows whirl over it in the winter, and the sea-gulls swarm around it in the summer. The last rays of de[)arting day linger upon its lofty spires; and when the long darkness is past, it eat(.'hes tin* first gleam of the returning light, and its gilded dome heralds the coniing morn. The elements <'ombine to render tribute "to its match- less beauty. Its loud voice is wafted to the shore, and the earth rolls it from crag to crag among the ichoiug hills. Tiie sun steals through the veils of radiant fountains which flutter over it in the summer winds, and the rainbow on its ])allid cheek betrays the warm kiss, 'i'lic air crowns it with wreaths of soft vapor, and the waters iirouud it take the hues of the emerald and the sai»phire. In t'ulfilmeiit of its destiny it moves steadily onward in its bhie piitliway, llirdiigli the viirying seasons and under the changerul skies. Slow Iv, as in ages \>>ul(iw changes, more ancient tiian the l\gy]>tian pyramids or the dlielisk ol" llelioj)olis. Its crystals were dewdrops and sucnvllakes long before the human race was born in Kden. '';■! t I illiiiiiMii r'''r'. ''3. ■4 mm To return from this digression : -The Summer of bSOl was passed 1)V Dr. Hayes in the conduct of ex[>lorations and survi'vs in the iiiiiiie- (liate vicinity of Port Fonlke, IFartstene l>ay. spoken of recently li\' Nares as the best wintei' station on the north coast of (freeiilaml. The established routine of observations was eoulinutMl at the \(>m'1. and. in addition, a delicate tidal apparatus was constructed, the read- iiiU's of which were made to tenths of a foot, and at intervals of ten minutes. Flayes was joiiu'd by a tribe of Kskinit>s. living on the coast liftween Snuth Strait and Capi » Oik, and st'veral niendxMs of the trihe continued with him until late in the stnnnier. This singular IK'Dple numbered about eighty souls. They li\('d in snow-hoiises ! ', f i !)' d ^ ' m '•''' AMKIJM'AN K.\I'l,Oi;.\l'lnNs IN TMK ICK ZONKS. jilxmt tlic liiiibui', ami iniiiiiliiiiicil llicinsclvcs l>y limitiiij;- llio walrus and the seal. Tlio chief (d" this Ktali tiihc was atjaiii iVieiidlv. ""^^'"■■^ H.ii nicHOL'.iial A SNOW \ ll,|.A(Ji:. IIAVKS KKTriJN T( » TIIK rNITKl> S'l'ATKS. Till' schc, (ler. liaviiiu' Ixhmi pri'parcd t'oi' sea. was broken out ol' llie ire (Ml tlif lOtJi of .luly. and sailed from her winter liarhor on thi l-llli. Alter nnieh diflienlty and two trials, sh(> reached the west coast, ten mill's below Cajie Isabella. That cajie she was unable to [)ass, but •ip '^ COlil.KCTIONS IN NATTKAL IIISTdltV. • >t Ml 11 ll.ivcs HUcceedcd in iniikiii;jf its iioitli side in .i \vliiilc-l)i>iit, iiiid l"n»in iin «^|i'\;ilit»ii ot" iibitiit six liimdrcd Icct, obtaiiictl ;i view to tlic! Norlli- w 11(1. Ill that dirt!cli(»ii IIh; ice \v;is cvfrvwhcic iiidndkcii ; and as it did not ii|>|)er(>l)al)U! that li(! conld (ti)lain I'nr thf schooner a nioic iMiitlii'in harhor, and as \\v. had now only live don's rcmaininn', withoui iiiciiMs \)( obtaininu^ a new sn|)|ily^ he (h'ci(h'd to abandon tiic iicid, ami to return homo, triistinj^', as has been intiniatiMl, to be al)lu at an early da\ t(» renew the attempt, with a, small steamer. Mnterini^ W'liah^ Sound, Ik; had an excellent opjiortunity I'or de- lincatinn" the shore-line of that reniai'kable iidel. 'riiiou^h a clear ;il iiiospherc! he could traci; the land around iVoui Mm; North to tlu; Sdiilli sIku'c, thus [)rovinn' llu; inlet to be a, dee|» <4uli", which, mit, of respect to ih(! enlerprisinj;' navij^'ator who iirst ]ienetral<'d its waters, he (lesinuate(l as the (Jidf of ('a[)tain In^'hilield. I'^or two jirominent points on the northern side »l' tla; ^ull'. mistaken by Intjlelicdd for islands. Dr. Hayes retained tlu; names which he had usi d. He lound a colony ot I'iskimos on tlu; south side o[' Whale Sonnt , and icmained loni,^ enoU!4'h with them to become lannliar with their habits and lo obtain som(! |>hoton'raphs. Alter leavint;" Whale Sound lie c(»ntinue(l down the c(»ast, and. inuhn' I'avorabU; circumstances, compleicd the survey ot" the shore, iiicludiny; ('adogeu and Talbot Inlets, as far south as Claicncc! Ifead. Here he came upon a lioiivy ice-[)aek, and A\as obliged to hold to the Eastward. l)urin'ret tlu? small- ncss of hia corj)S of workej's. He succeeded in obtainint;' some valua- ble collections, ond)racin;4' dredj^inn's from the vari(tus points visiicfl, plants from several tdfferent localities, skins and skeletons of the ]irin- cipal mammals, skins of many (tf the Arctic birds, and a lar^'e nund)er of skulls of Eskimos. His hunters ca|)turcd upward of two hnn(lre(l reindeer. Walrns and seal of different varieties wer(> found in abun- dance. Durinjv the sunnncr several s])ecies of Avaterfowl swarmed upon the islands and cliffs about the mouth of Smith Strait. The J, '\i I! i«i m 1i" j ^ ! 1 ' : i! i [ ;j '' !:, ■* , I: ! -i'.. ,!! •' I- i f ; )■ I i i l.Vs A.MKItlCAN KXIM/tUATIONS IN I'lIK ICK 7.0NE.S. iiiosi miiiR'roiis ol' llu'sc wero tlu' little auk (^Uriu uUc) and the Eider ay : a snrvi'V made independently d' the hai s (d" his predecessors. •icU', .1 ]K)i'tioM of winch is !iS lies, and on the western he sli(ire-Iru. snrv(>V( ( I on J ir C new (lisc(i\('r\, e» mail etl ahout six 'ur nion on tlu; side. Itelwcen Clarcm'c Head on the; suiith Ki ' Cape I north, about thirteen hundred miles. It was with rej.'ret that he turned his hack uiicn the seem; of his year's lahors ftnd entered Melville iiay, and alter boring through tile "pack" lor one hundred and lifty uuh'S. entered the Soidhciii W'atei'. and reached riicrna>ik on th(> 14th Minisier to St. James, and the st'cond by (nuieral John A. I)ix, Tnited States Ministci' to Paris, in 18(i9. The citations from his ^■nrrative and (^harl ma(U> in the Ueports of Captain Nares are aeconi- iianiiMi h\- the (»xi)rcssion " o f undoubted authority. To Ids two Arctic volunu's, ''The Arctic Boat Journey " o f 18 and The Open Polar Sea" of 18t30, lie added a narrative t)f a thir(: visit to Oreeidand in ISdO. made in ihe Steam Yacht " Panther," the ])ruperiy of ihe Artisl. Mr. William Ibadford. This vcduine bears the 'I ■ I '.III From the " Open Pnlar Srn," ropuWi«l\cil tiy .1. R- Ovind St Co., \^',. m '^^Jii !=t f I'll ■ i 1 < j i ; i! *' ' \P ■ ( ; ) 160 AMKKICAN KXPI.OItATlONH IN TIIK ICIC ZONKS. titl(! of '' Tlic Land ol" Di'Sdlatioii," ii iiimio if-apijlU'd iVdin the; cliion llMl l(! oh cU's of (»kl .loliii Davis. On (lie visit, devoted cliielly to tin- shid\ ,,| the |iietiires(iue rather than tiio scieutilie, Hayes had the renew rd l»leasMre of o!)serving the formation of the (ireenhmd glaeien ieehei'us, as well as of visiting the sites of the colonies of tl Northmen tliere. The range of the eoasl along whieh the "f'anthci ' sailed was more than a, tli(»nsand miU-s, terminating u good wa\ heyoml the lasl ontpost (»f eivilization on the glohe, and in the midst of the nnu'h-dreaded iee-paek of Melville liny. As an Honorary Mendier of several Seientitie JSoeieties of Kninpc id A and AnuM'iea, with an observing eye upon each of the later Arctic Expeditions, he eontribnted to the press inimerons articles on h IS lie w avoilte theme, even amidst the busy oeeupations of his political 1 bih' a nuMuber (»f the Legislature of the State of New York, niinii- taiiiing a deep interest in Arctic diseovery until his death in l>i71. NoTK. — Tlw Annual Txoport of the Board of Rosonts of tlic Sniillisonian Institntc ii the year iSCil contains a liOctuiv dolivt'i'cd. by Dr. Hayes in the hall of the In.slitulion. n his ExiuMJition of ISCiO. This IJcporl contains also Professor Henry's vahialdc SnniiiiMi of Dr. Kane's Exjilorations. In his {{eport to tlie Itenents for the year IS().">. ProfesM Henry devotes a |iUi;e space to a r(>\ icw of Dr. Hayes' seientitie work in the North, n i, i rin^j; in his review to the aiireenient of the resnl ,ilh tliose of Dr. Kane as due lu il fact tliat in both !"Apedltions the larger part of the Observations were made by 'In hiniented Sonntau. i:IN' II- 1 llir hL-fiiNiim iV I'liiiiiii-j. ' II \ \ n.v \ 1.' (I !i\vi:n i ^^^,lt!•^l('^ i>f >;. K H..I (. -i '•i '!'ni I ti III.- TllKtiK ^t.^•\t.l;s. 'vMi...l!< It', > FOi; IMS J''l/;t5T N<'»A\.- !. i^u!"r■■,^ .. — i!:..Voi»Ns Mm liiTH'.xiNu riiAi' m':k 'U'' I'ij -. ^ m.;n'.v .IVEl'. - • ii;<'i LAJ: KNr»'»J'RKi' nv M'..mhn«. Mi s --i ".ii<». ■ v-, Al!) UV Mj.. eilliSM'.T.I AM»U\ W'KLIAMH Wl* nWI.X, "<»>( .nkv uu.mjo.n. — I'T'hu'.s his v\ri\;: i'oMi«A\;nv. ..•iTfiic u Ki.Kiui.s. AUUlVi ■. Ai ri :.M.i..r.> iJI.P'm n. :,*.T LVrUl'SR'" '■•< <'F FHh ,V.\ IT." l-'-s, -— Di.- I I'l t ' i ; i i.s M-- >.. AND T>« K KX i'r:nrne»> m - » p. - • i- 1 nsr \' i.^t \ t \ "• t •" ! . .,„.•« »N 'ii'i: ,)m:in»: jmj.j.< • vi.NG. — T.!»n'nVf':u\ 'iHA i ;;"- . \^\ " i:^ \ i>\\.' ~ ItNi'jN'. f«l- Thf: H!"H!SIIK1- :;!.•; • t:v HAl.nnn'v-i ilisrt'UA.— l.Xi\.' >U.\Tli 'V- n 'IhL •■^n'\,. — liKf I;n l* • ! 1) ;> III' ir '". < . i' lliil Cliliiusrisiii li,;- tlH! MMf li -»!lI iii uiih with •;'" • liie. Tii!'<"!'! : i ' f ! ; .\ i.i" I'ilt If ..1 to f ■!•>! 1 lie! iultS CO ! : ' ,ir ! (• tfl !.l I i: I' -'ix. r.M'u .r.ci Ill- IP I'. I oMM'l <■■ .jCfl til-,, -.'uilv '•'!' 1-. . .it ir.i;.,hl \>" iImji-' j. '• Tr i'. '■!. Hi I ■, I'li^il i,"(l •\il-- OuVilt! H ;m rt' ''S . ii'^H .(1 l/V i i; ■"f all f-rtiri;i.\-*'r ; du, Ir '"Mi \\ 111, ,t.wl irtun (if !iii:- • h;;.iK Tt " iiiic ir'>i:. i 1"^ V •• nt Hti; ■■ v In ii!t'iM' \i'-.\< J(.VM-:i.rli' ' !) >h.u '.V \|-.,t'-. t 1 i> I' > * * .-!■ ("T. ! • k iiov. ••(I'jriii !it- ,ii'i I'ii' M''>;.-.f.s. li ,r •,.,. n i 111- i> tjlXli' •ij .it' Ml.' Sjoond !iii! .if t' ' riihi' Fv;i ■! al',>!i i' '!i,. :ie,j iiJ.ai't.-r, .. !u.!- i'l.ViVi f.. •■ tti. tlilii.::! ! Vn) )■- .t'i i f HI , I S|-l. :i.l i". lii;.' In'iii .. ii.a-- 1- t It^^ li J| ■ ' i i li! ili '' '! ^1 liM' t^'- k .1^^ '^ . . ' TIIK CA hai.l's IIESOI MEN { — (!E Kun-i AND HAY. - THE " WITH HIS HE CONFI AND .^ TEIIST NATIV w syiiipatli Ciiiciiimi which fa issue ot' Hritisli \ S|iai'o hoi means w (hilly hih * Tim 1 I'liit'lly as I N. v.. lS(i:, Tho lii> ill;,' -.line St n UK GHINNELL CHAPTER VI.* AXI) IIAVEX EXPEDITION OE G. F. HALL.— TlIP: FIRST OF Ills TIIUEE VOVACJES. 1860-02. HAl.LS MOTIVES FOR HIS FIRST VOYAGE. — ARCTIC STUDY. — LIMITED UESUURCES. — REASONS FOR BEL1EVIN(; THAT SOME OF FRANKLIN's MEN STILL LIVED. — CIRCULAR ENDORSED BY LEADING MEN OF OHIO. — (lENEROUS AID BY MR. GRINNELL AND BY WILLIAMS AND HAVKN. SAILS FROM NEW LONDON. — BURIES HIS NATIVE COMPANION, KUD-LA-GO. — VISITS HOLSTEINBORG. THE KYAKS. — THE BELTED AND THE GOTHIC ICEBERGS. — ARRIVES AT CORNELIUS GRINNELL 1;AY. — FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NATIVES. — DESTRUCTION OF THE "RESCUE," AND THE EXPF^DITION BOAT. — FIRST A('(iUAINTANCE WITH EBIERBING AND TOO-KOO-LI-TOO. — INLAND EXCURSION. — EX- ILORATIONS IN THE SPRING FOLLOWING. — DISl'OVERY THAT FRO- lilSHER "strait" is A BAY. — FINDING OF THE FP.OBISHER RELICS CONFIRMED BY BARROW's HISTORY. — EXPLORATIONS IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1862. NOTES OF ESKIMO DRESS, HABITS, AND Sl- I'ERSTITIONS. — r'eTURN TO THE UNITED STATES WITH THE TWO NATIVES AND THEIK CHILD. w 'rrHIN a few weeks of the sailing of Dr. Hayes from Boston, an Arctic voyager, without companions for his exploration, left the port of New London, Connecticut. The prevailing sympathy for the fate of Franklin had kindled in Mr. C. F. Hall, of ('iiicinnati, an enthusiasm for tlie search and for Arctic Exploration whicli failed him only with his life. Througli the nine years from the issue of the instructions to Lieutenant Dellaven to the return of the iiiitish Yacht ''Fox," under McClintock, he had steadily devoted ev(My spiue hour to the study of what might be done for the rescue. His means were very limited; he Avas earning a bare livelihood by the daily labor of an engraver ; but he found friends who assisted in * The preparation of this chapter has been mado from a review of Hall's lirst voyaiio, I'liit'lly as narrated by hiiiiself in liis"Aretlc Researches." published by M(!ssrs. Harper, N. v.. ISC)."). Acknowledgments are due Messrs. Harper for tlu; use of the Woodcuts. The history of the Second and of the Third Expedition in the next chapter, includ- iii;,' -.iMie statcMii'ni> here found, has Itcen derived from theOnicial Papers and C'orrespond- 161 I? m ■ r ;i i ■ ! !'■ ' ! 1 ■ '■, ;■ ' !!( 1 ' i \&2 AMEltlCAN EXl'LOllATIONS IN THE JCE ZONES. sec'uiing intelligence ot" what was done by the different Expedition:* already named [('liaj). I.] ; and 1)>' the i-cindness ehielly of ("oIoik'I Lupton, President of the Mercantile Library, he was supplietl with lue fullest Arctic literature. In l;rluil up at sea- by ('a[>tain .lames Hudington, of New London, Connectiiiit. and ])rescuted to England l)y the I'uited States Congress. Hearing' that she hiid been disnianllcd and laid U[) as a hulk in the ]\Ie(l\\;i\. Hall secured the signatures of (iovernor Chase and oilier leading mm ol' Ohio to a petition to that Covernment for a loan of the ship, in which he might go out to join ^IcClintock in his expedition of 18o7--"iH. The return of the "l-'ox"' anticipated action on this, but he still uigril that the cxjihu'ations matiiig of two oflioors and six men left llio Slii]i on Monday, 24tli IM:, .'. lS-t7. •■ (i. M. (;<)i!i:, I.iciil. ••('iiAs. V. Dks '. Ki \. Matf." Aniiiiid llio margin of this paper, upon whiili. in ls4T. those words of hopi' and ;iniiii- i^f were, written, the following words had snhsequiuitly been faintly traced: — "•April 2'). 1S4S. Ii.M. Sliips 'Erebus' and 'Terror' were deserted :)n tin; li'Jd .\i)ril. ."i li'iigne:, \.\.\V. of this, having ix'eii lieset sinee l-Jth St>ptr.. IS4(!. The oHieers and iTi'ws. consisting of 14") soids, nnder the conunand of Cant. E. TJ. ^f. Ci'ozier, landed hercr ill lat. C.'.)^ :iT' 42" \., long. 9s^' 41' W. Sir .John Eranklin tiled on the lllh .luiie, IS4T: and the total loss by deaths in the Exiiedition has Ijeiiii to this date- i) ollicer.> and I.") men. (Signed) Ja.mks Frr/.iAMi;s. '•F. K. l\r. f'KoziKi!," Captain II.M.. S. • Erel/iis.' "Captain and Senior Officer, "and start on to-morrow," 2flth for "Back's Fish Itivcr." In Admiral ^leClintoek's "Voyage of the Fox," the date of tlic year of Fraiikliirs wintering at Heeehey Island is corrected from IS4()-7 to lS4.'j-0, — a correction which, ;i> li,> states, is proved by a glance at the top ami the boltmn of i'Mlzjam.s' Paper. iU I VV'''\ i i ; i a i;::,! li i i' ill! I "i-. u i ! I ■ 164 AMEIUCAN KXl'LORATIONS IN THK ICK ZONES. believe that some of the party still survived, were that uo Arctic Exj^lorer had ever understood better the necessities of a good su])])ly of fresh provisions for his men than did Sir John Fraidcliu, and tiiiit lie had made provision for such necessities. In proof of this Hall liad found in the oiheial papers that a full complement of fresh provisions, l)reserved meats, soups, vegetables, and ten live oxen were on board the "Erebus" and "Terror;" and further, that Franklin had told Captain Martin, of the whaler "Enterprise," when off the coast of Greenland, thut he had provisions for five years, and, if necessary, could make them spin out to seven; he would lose no opportunity of killintf game, and had already secured a large quantity. There was every reason to beli(;ve, too. that animal life was found in abundance by his men on the shores of Wellington Channel, especially in the neighboi'- hood of Baillie Hamilton Island, and that Franklin must have sent, hunting parties to great distances v;ith sledges; for the tracks of these sledges were seen six years affer by Kane, DeHaven, Onimaney, and Osborne. Hall could say with truth that his expectations of rendering relief were liased on years of careful study and examination of \\\y,\\ had been written on the subject: and his a])})eid was ])lain and strong: "Why should not attem])ts be renewed agabi and again until all the facts ail' known ? " On the 8th of February, 18(50, lit; issued a circular, in the nattire of an a])])eal to his fellow-citizens for aid in his pi'oposed iindertakinn', which read as follows: — '"This is to memorialize all lovers of man, and of geography, history, and science, to co-o])erate by all methods and means in their p>>wer to facilitate and assist our fellow-countryman, Charles F. Hall, of Cin- cinnati, Ohio, in the formation of and iitting out an American Expedition, in search of survivors of .Sit J( bn yraiiklin's Exploring party, consisting of one hundred and thirt ;. •<-;j;'ht ].;:rsons, only twenty-seven of whom are known to be dead : '.•ieco.ully, for .'atisfactorily settling and completing the historvof ihr la * F'i'nklJn Fxpedilii'u; and thirdly, to promote and benefit the c;.:i,-,e cf geogriphy, navigation, natural history and science. hall's i'LAns. 105 '•Siu'li Hii cxpoditioii, with proper vessels, witli a t'oinpeteut iiuil (.x|,i ricnueil eoinaiunder, otlicers, aiul crow, witli a complete outtit iind iiKivisioiis ft)i' Ironi two to three years' cruise, to embark I'rom an east- ern port of the United States, and proceed vUi Davis' Strait, liallin's |;;i\. Lancaster Sound, and Barrow's Strait; thence from the north ciiast of Bootiiia to commence the search, extending it to King \Vil- ]i;i Ill's Land and the adjacent regions, nntil a thorough and satist'a<;torv iiL\('stigati(ni shall have been made of all that jjortion of the Arctii; ^Vllrld. and the humanitaxiun object attained for discovering some sui- v'.vor of the lost compani(;ns of Sir John Fraidclin, or of ascertaining the ultimate fate of the nu;mbers of that expedition, who, up to this (hiv, remain unaccounted foi', being no less than one hundi'cd and eleven souls, whoso history the loud voic(! of mankind from all gcn- (Ttuis natures demands shall not remain forever shrouded in oblivion wliilc energetic intelligence and American ent(;rprise can liojx; to ivscuc a single survivor, or furnish the so'ution of ilicir ultimate histoi'v." This appeal "was emhu'sed by a number of tlie public men of ilic Slate, among whom were its (iovernor, \V. Dennisoii, Lion. S. I*. Cliasc, and the jNIayor of Cincinnati, Jlon. K. AL Jlisho]). I'roceeding to the i^astern States. Mr. Hall \isitc(l l,)r. Hayes and tlic relatives and iVicnds of Dr. Kane in I'hiladclpliia, and thence itturning to New York, met with much personal encouragement from Mr. Henry (Jrinnell, and in New L.ngland from Messrs. Williams and li'ivcii, of ^»ew London. ^\t a meeting of the .Vmei'ican (.ieograjilii Siicicty of New York he explaiuecl his plans, which wei'c in suhstai rj lliat lie would (iist in tlii^ North ae(|uire a knowledge of the langn.in'ti and life of the Eskimos, and then visit tlu; lands of King Will n, lluiiiliia. and \'ictoria. He would take witli him a native inter]"' .fr, and, liming his sojourn in the North, employ a crew of nati ■> to iic(i)!ii|)any liini. i\v would tirst, on reaching Xortliuiiiberland in ct, jiincccd up one of its arms Avliich runs \\('st \varki- iiins as being a navigable river cniptying into l''o\ Cliamud. Arriving ill "Fox's Furthest" (Lat. Cil^oO' N., Long. 77° n.V W.), he would pio- cct'd on tli(! east side of tlu^ (diannel to the Strait of the " Furv * and .!■ ' i: ' 1 ! -J Y:. f I 'm 1 ( it i AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. "Ilc'C'lii"of Piirry, tlms connecting Parry's (liscovci'ics of 1821 with those of Fox, iniulc in ir»ol. SuccecMling in tiiis, lu; wonld liopc t,, winter among the friendly natives of Igloolik, and ])r()ceed either souili- ward to the east coast of Melville Peninsula, or jmsh his way ac^dss the (iulf of Bf)otliia to Victoria Harbor. Duiing the winter and spring, sledge jourin^ys AVoidd be made to ascertain the ehief object of his voyage, and to ae([iiiri! a thoroii^li kiiouii'dge of the country. It A\as evidently in his nund that prepai'a- tory work of a serious character would be neeessai'v belong much could be hoped for iu the matter of ascertaining even this, and as certaiulv ill the A\av of securing any furthei' additions to the knowledge of llic Eskimos and their land. Mr. (irinnell, who, at tli(> date of this entorjirise, and even much later, retained the latent ho]ie of there being yet a possibility n\' finding anuuig the natives sonu; of Franklin's nuMi, sent Hall a stnui^ letter of encouragement. Th; wrote that ])robably no one was nioiv desiious than hims(df to ascertain the fate of the Franklin J'iXpedi- tion. and he beJicNcd that some of the one hundreootliia, N'ictoria, or Prince Albert Lands, lie advised a visit to the grave of J'^ranklin and to those of some of his oflicers. which, if searched for in the nnuitlis of -Inly, .Viigust. and Se[)tcnil»ci', might lie discoveicd. and AVould reveal some records of I he e\pediti(Ui: adding, '"the course yni jirojio-^e to pursue is entirely a new and important one. and I see not why, with the exercise of your best indgment, you may not ultimatidy accomjilish all that coiihl be desired in satisfactorily di'termining many oi' the unsettled ipics- tions indicated above, as w.'ll as increasing our geogiaphieal knowl- edge f c/itii\'/r, in the Iiiii.|iie "(ieorge Henry," to Nortliund)erlaiul Inlet, and, whenever (K>iifd, we \»'ill give the same tree passage honi" in any of our ships.'" .\h»y -\K 18(J0, after spending some weeks of preparation in New Vm k and New L(jndon, Hall left the latter city, Searing with him the |;i>i cordial larewells of Mr. (irinnell, Mr. llavei;, and Mayor Harris. 'j'lir "(ieorge Henry" was aecompanied l)y the "Amoret" sehooner, foi'- iiM 1 1\ known as the '' lleseue " of Aretic eelebrity, the ollieers and crews (il ihe two vessels luunbering in all twenty-inne persons. Hall's only (■(.iii|ianion was the Eskimo, Kud-la-go, whom ("ajjlain Hudington, of ilic ■■(xeorge HeniT." had brought to the Uiuted States on his voyage (il'ilic pi'eeeding-autumn. The outfit which the explorer could call his nwii consisted of a boat built for him by Rogers, the builder for De- ll;, \fii. Kane, and lliirtstene; one sledge; some twelve hundred pnimds of pennnican and meat biscuit; a small supply of a- iniMution, and a few nautical instruments and thermometers. The diui nsions of the Ihiat were: length, twenty-eight feet; beam, seven feet; depth, tuciiiy-nine and one-half inches; the thicki.ess of her cedar i)laid 'd and sixty-three souls. The harbor of Holstehiliorg, called by the English ships, "'WyHe Fiord," is an important place for whalers, being well land-locked, though small. The I'ise and fall at spring tides of about ten Icti affords every facility for repairing the damage caused by the ice t" shijis. Landing is not possible at all tinu's of tide, for "at high-watii mark a broad fringe of ice margins the shore, to which it is tiniil\ frozen, and is convenient to step on to from a boat; but at low wadr this 'ice-foot' is several feet above uiie's head, and the rocks new exposed are worn smooth and slippery by the constant attrition of ice." McClintock, from whom this note of the lauding is cited, had nindreil the *• Fox," two years before, by hawsers to the rocks on each side of the yacht: yet his anchor lay in seventeen fathoms. He found the nicun- tainous, rocky scenery around magnificent, but remarks that a little more animal life would have made it nutre pleasing. \qx\ few rein- suri'Kii WITH (i(>\ i:i;n(»i; klisoik;. !»;{> (Ifi r cniild Ix' seen at the time oi' his visit, and the live hmuln-d skin? only of the year pi'evious were in ^.*^r()ng contrast with the thrcr tiioii sail* ^ -^ . ■■* . <5ovp:unou klbouo in jus oo.miak-. Frum McCliiitttck s '■ \ .eaks of those he had obtained as heing of unknown geological date. The eartlKpiake shocks of whicdi 111' speaks as having been felt near this harlxtr. Hall tlnAight were in reality only the results of the freezing in tli(> rock crevices of ilie I t Mi m ■ h 1 i. li^jj 1 KSKl.Mo \V(»MAN AM) CHILI). K.;c-siinilf (if u Woodcut drawn uud i'Mj;raved by tlie Urefidaiider "Aaron." JTU TIIK CKKKM-ANI) KAYAKKlt 171 lllnll iitiiiiif II (> lio tict'd scveriil ailiels of small drie(| lisli -- Capelins. Kayaks in lar^c nundjcrs iliiiiccd aroniid the hoats of American ;il(pie Th lii'CC I and th( ;ill o f the K th minis HI Tlit^St \\i re matter of -II I'prisc ker si the ;i\ii nine low- Ill mse to ont- siii|) ovcry- iiii' |)ossil)lo KAYAK SO.MKUSKT. Krciin IIiiir« "Amii' Ui'scnrclif*. " Iliirpci Urcitlii III 1 he idwinq; of l)t)ats, outsich' of the Arctic reu'ions. wo lare sights were witnessed. One of the Eskimos turned somersets in the water seated in his Kayak. '"Over and over lie and his Kayak wx'iit lill he heard the cry, 'Enough," and yet //*' /i','f onJi/ hi.^ hrmJx ainl fm-r ."" The feat is performed only hy a few: retjuiring great skill and strength to do it. One misx in the stroke of the oar as they ])ass from I he centre (when their head and body are under water) to the surface, terminate fatally. No one will attem])t this feat, however, nn- iiupanioii in his Kavak is near. The wetting of tlie hands and iiii'i'iit U'ss a CI ace on ly is the result of the close littinp; of the sealskin dress, which ■xteiids from ahove the shoulders to the round hole in w'liich the 3 1 i 1 ; J ) IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 l^|2^ 125 m Hi 2.2 US, 12.0 i m 1 \M ||M |||||i6 ^ 6" ► y] ^^Vv V '^' / z;^ «>' V Hiotographic Scioices Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M5B0 (716) S72-4503 >'^ \ 4 4 6^ 41^ 4^ I' H If :.i ;i Si, 'i ■i-i 1 V I ' f-. If ^ k- 1*72 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. Kayaker sits, so thut no water can enter. The first sight of this Imil caused the expression of McClintock, " it is wonderful to see imw closely a man can assimilate himself to a lish." The other feat witnessed was that of a native runnitig his Kayak. while seated in it, over another. Getting some distance off, he strikes briskly and pushes forward, and in an instant is over, having struck the upturned peak of his own Kayak, nearly amidships, and at riulu angles of the other. The spectators rewarded these feats with a few plugs of tobacco. The ships' companies enjoj-ed a cordial welcome in the harbor during the seventeen days of their stay ; on the 27th thcv were in a heavy snow-storm at sea with many icebergs in sight. Two of these came before Hall's fancy as belted and Gothic towers. The first of these seemed like the ruins of a lofty dome about to tijll, a portion of its arched roof al ready tumbling down. " Then in a shdit time, this was changed to a picture of an elephant with two large cir- cular towers on his back, and Coi- inthian spires springing out boldly from the broken mountains of ahi- baster on which he had placed his feet. The third view, when at ;i greater distance, made it like a lighthouse on the top of the piled- up rocks, white as the driven snow. It took no great stretch of fanry to finish the similitude when the sun, for nearly the first time duviiit: a week, burst forth in all its splendor, bathing with its flood of li.c this towering iceberg lighthouse ! " Of the other iceberg, the side facing Hall had a row of completi- arches of the true Gothic order ; and " running its whole length, were mouldings, smooth projections of solid ice, rivalling in the beauty of all their parts anything I ever saw. The architecture, frieze, and cornice of each column supporting the arches above were as chaste and accu- rately represented as the most imaginative genius could conceive. Here GOTHIC ICKBERG. From Ilall'i "Arctic Researches." Harper Brothen. FIRST IMlMiESSIONS OF THE INNUlTvS. 173 ;iiii] tluMe a matcliless perfection di8j)laye(l itself, in the curvature of lint s, and, springing out from a rude recess, at a vast height, appeared ;i delicate scroll quite in keeping with Hogarth's line of beauty." .Inly 30, the "George Henry" was within three miles of "Sander- sdii's Tower," on the west side of the entrance to Northumberland JiilL't; August 8, the barque reached her anchorage at Ookoolear, the Kskimo name for what has been since known as Cornelius (irinnell liilV. I'x't'ure entering the b.ay, a runawiiy bojit's crew from the whaler "Aii.-jcll (Jibbs," of New Bedford, was hailed on their southward course jioiiio. They stated, that on account of bud treatment, they had de- serted from the ship, at Kingaite in Northumberland Sound, and had niii the distance from that place two hundred and fifty miles, in less tliaii three days. Captain Budington relieved their extreme hunger, ;iii(l ill pit}"^ for the necessities of the desert(!rs furnished some supplies Idi their })erilous voyage, which, according to information received two veins afterwards, they succeeded in effecting to the Labrador coast. The first impression made by the natives around the bay was of a liivorable character, especially in reference to their good nature. In noting his impressions. Hall quotes from the reviewer of an Arctic Ik ink a reference to the Eskimo race, as being "singular composite lieiiigs," — a link between Saxons and seals, — hybrids putting the se.ils" bodies into their own, and then encasing their skins in the seals, thus walking to and fro, a compound formation. A transverse section would discover them to be stratified like a roly-poly pudding, (inly instead of jam and paste, if their layers were noted on a perpen- dicular scale, they would range after this fashion: first of all, seal, — then biped-seal in the centre with biped — then seal again at the liiittoiii. Yet, singularly enough these savages are cheerful, and really seem to have great capacity for enjoyment. Though in the coldest and \iu»t uncomfortable dens of the earth, they are ever on the grin, what- ever befalls them. When they see a white man and his knick-knacks, they ijfrin. They grin when they rub their noses with snow, when they blow their fingers, when they lubricate their hides inside and out with the fat of the seal. The good-naturedness referred to here was •I j^l ^ 1 i ■ i , t' 1 1 i ; ■■ 1 ' ■ lililiii h i y } i: 1* \ iM 174 AMKItK AN KXI'LOKATIONS IN TIIK M'K ZnNKS. (>ii(l()rs(Ml l)y ilall iVniii the itiitsct of liis ii(-(|(i:)iiitiiiH'(' wiili the iMti\i'v: I licii' (itlicr j^dod jMiiiits its wi-ll its (Iflfcls were, iis wniild lie r.\|K(it(|. iiii|prrss('(| upon liiiii witli dillriiiij;' cxin'iiciuts iiml iiidniinMits tlircii^ii- • iiii his years ol' sdjuiini. (^iiitc a iiiimhci' of the |n'n|il»' |'i('(|ii('iiti i| the Iiai(|tic : aiiioii^ tlielii the wile dl' Kud-la-n'o, w ho had lieaid on shoii ol' her liusliaiid's (h'atli, and whos-- 'nars tlowcd t'asl wlicu she saw ili.- treasures whieh the dei-easi'd had ^allieii'd in the States, lor her ami his little child. ()li the Itltii, the t\V(t ships sailed lor NM-L;iiiii-liii-ulse, their iiileiMlnl inter quarters. lUd'ore sailing', two other whalers, the '• IJlack !• w a''li- til iiii ll'lc and tiie "( leori^ianna liad eonie in lioiii another wiialiiiL'"-<;roiiiii| 'I'lie harhor enterr-d hy the "(Jeor^'e Henry" was not easy ol" ar< iv^ hut safe; Ilall i^'ave it the new name of (yriis \V. I""ield IJay. whiil it retains. ( )n t lie lilst, the " licseue " was s<'nl liy the captain to examine I in availahility lor a tishiny' depot oriiii inlet on t he other side of ihc o,i\ and Ilall accompaiiiecl it. making' his liist \ isii to the scene ol' the 1: iiiL^s of the voyagers under old Sir Martin I-'rohisher, three eeiiti before. Here lie made discoveries of value: and here he lost lii^ " I^\pe(litioii l)oat,"" tin; only means on which he could icly for ilic prosecution of his westward jiuirueyin^s. The L^ale wliicli ln'oiiy'lit these disasters was a severe one. 'riiici vessels, the '" IJarciue," the *' IJescue," and the whaler " ( Jeorn'ianii.i ' were anchored near each other in the liay Se|)lemlier "27, when tin storm hcuaii : it increased hy 11 i*. M. to a hurricane. The " Kt'sciie ' after draii'n'iiiL>' l'(U' scuue hours, daslied upon the hi'cakers. a {(tt;i wreck: the "• (ietuuianna " struck heavilv »»ii the lee-shore. _ / -^ : -3 / /. r I Tin: i:xim;i)1ti<>n hoat lost, 1 1 Tlall's boat was driven liiiii upiui the rocks, nothint;" hoiny- after ward found of her, except lier stern-post: hut Itehire the howl of tin tempest ended, lie was askintj;" of ('a|)tain J)udin. TKMri:i:A rritr.s in NnvKMi»i:i; 1 1 1 |„ iiilclli'^ciil ;iii(l spukc 1-jiirlisli (|iiii(' lliifiilly. 'I'lify liad iic(|uiri'(l tl;- 1111111 ;i rt'siilfiicc I'f iwciil y iimiit lis in I1ii'l;1:iiiiI. II;iiiii:iIi itroinpllv •I III imU" Id Ifiiniiii^ to icjid midfr IliilTs Icin-liiiij \M\ciiil>('r II*. the i'f IVolil tlic lifild of tlif l»il\ l)f'. and tl uciitlicr niodcrato and clear. Tlie tcniiicratnrc of the sea-water No- \iiiil)er :i4tli was 20°, and of tlie air 1S^: tlie liaroiiieter i-ead :2t>-")"). Dectinher NS IN TMK ICK ZONKS. t riionlinarv niildiicss of the season prevented the usual liunts. Tin; natives sullered iur supplies. Januaiv .*>, the theiinonietei' re^isten d (iU° below the freezing judnt. LAMP. The iiit'iiiliiiK dmii' hy Kskinioa. sions, and sleeping conitorts; his teleseo[)e, sextant, therniometcr. and marine glass; a rille, with aninmnition ; and a Howditch Nantiial Almanac, and other books. Too-koo-litoo at first led the wa}', tracking for the d(tgs, which l^bierbing numaged well; but, on nearing tlic frozen waters of the ocean, where it was necessary to lower the sleiloc to the ice. the dogs were (' turned (luriii i\nti(' rx|)erienee8 ontside of the (Mynlorls of the shi]) proved to be ;i siiar)) cliseipline. Uurinj; the forty-three (), outside at — lio" to -i)'!'. I'artial relief eanu! by supplies received through I-^hicrbint'' from the ship and from a seal eaught by him. His iirst atten)|)ts at a return to the ship were arrested by his extreme weakness, for the Arctic ex|)osure of his life thus far had bef:;un to tell uj)on him, but on tlir 21st he sueceeded in jjetting on board. Tie considered that his sojouin had i;iven him valtiable exju'rience; and lookin<;' baek (»n it al'tn- ward. he says "he enjoyed it, being as ha[)py as eireumstanees wouM j)ermit.'" On his return to the "(xeorge Henry," the iirst night was a slee]tl('ss one, the change from the ])ure atmosphere of the sn(tw-bouse to tlic eonliiH'd air of the cabin bringing to him "a sweating ])rocess," with suffering. On his recommendation to send two ol" the crew, seriously alllieted with scurvy, to stay with the Inniiits and live exclusively on fresh meat, walrus, and seal, Ca])tain Hudington sent them to the fiiends whom Hall had made at Oopungnewing, seventeen miles dis- tant. Hut the two men soon tired of igloo-life, and at their first relitl' from sickness set out to return to the barque : one of them, persistently holding on his course and leaving his Tnnuit companions, lost his way in the snow, and after a long search Avas found frozen dead. SPRING EXCURSIONS. April 22, 1861, the extreme severity of the season having passed. Hall set out on a second excursion to explore the land on what was marked on the charts as Frobisher's Straits. His companion was TIIK PISCOVKKV OK l-lCnlUSIIKU UAV, ISl Kiiojcssc, ii iiiilivc well iic(|iiiiiMtcil with llir ciiiiiitiN . ulio liad iiiiulc III liiin oiic 1)1 tlic aliiinst iiivaiiiilily iiiriinitr iiiili\r ( liiiiis. As til ii:i\fl was to Ix' oil loot ovcf tlic iff. llalTs li_t,'lil (Miiiipiuf iit lor tlif |,,iiiiicv was atlaclu'd to liitii by a siia[» jiassing «i\i-r liis shouMfis iitross his Ill-cast, and down th(^ hack was 'I'lic tiiivellt'iH crossed Field Hay, thence ov(M a t'ati^uinj; inoiiiitaiii |i;iss tliroujjjh a niaj^nilicciit }4<»rj;'e liclwceii hi<;h rocks, and thciici! aloii^ ;i siiiall inlet of the Countess of W'aiwick Sound, where, n|ion an iiliiii|)t turn, they cau»^ht sire : that she had heard from old Innuits, that " many, many years ago, "shiiis had oome with Kod-lu-nas aboard, two lirst coming, then two er three, and then very many; that five white men, cajitured by Inniiit pcojile, had lived among them till the next opening season, and then left the eountry in a large boat which they had built with masts and sails; and that the Kod-lu-nas had killed sonu; Innuits and carried off (ithcrs. The very heavy stones, of which the old woman spoke, Hall ii Ji . i:Hl., lilli l|.l ill ISi' AMi;i:ir.\N kxi'I-huations rs nii; ki: zonks. at uiict' iliiiiiu||| iiiiisi lie irnii. ami i''il)ici'l)iii;4' and Too-koo-littM) tlioiii^lit s(» Ion. 'I'licy wcrt' the only Inmiits who, liaviii^ visit«'(| Mnj^laml, it. ■ ntriii/.cil till' ItrjrUs, and liad tlicinsclvrs .scrii lliciii. 'I'liis inroniiat ion. drawn iVoni a woiiian a|>|i( ariii^r to Itc at least; a liiindr«'d years of a<^< . siilllieed lor Hall's deteiniiiiat ion to visit Ni-otin-tilik. It set liis iniinl npoii I he |iossil)ilily of valiialile discoveries in a land wliere he h.i'i idread\ ''olleeted a ehail ol' its waters. I le was astonished at the |MiW(r of iiieiiioiy and the reiiiarkahle way in which the |ieo|ile of the icv North could |)reseive history iVoin one ;^'eiieiat ion to another, withoiil a written lan<;'iiaL!'e. Me was also coiilirnieij in the lieliel' that he coiijil cerlaiiny learn I'roni such |ieo|ile the late of the lost I'olar l^xpedition. .\s he had iiow luit little hope of seciirino' on this voyage a hoat Imi' Kin;;- WilliaiiTs Land, or at least of scttiiiii;' out westward until lai.- in the season, he deteriiiine(| to visit the waters which he justly, iVoin that date, names only as l-'roUislicr l>ay. e set out Iroin the ship with dot;s and slcdp'. aceom- Mi IV -J* II panied In I'llticrhin^' and two of the native women, and on this lirsl ni' a seiio of shoit journeys to the hay, toiiiid senile additi(»nal links to the l*'rol)islier I'Apedition. lie als(» heard one story, his report, of whiili reaching the I'liitiMl States was al'terwards rej^rctted l>y hinisell" ami otheis. It seemed to iiidii-ate the wreck of I'^rankiin's ships in this region. l)nl was the true ae<'oiint of the wreck oi" a liritish whaler. DmiiiL;' the imnitli of .Inne a second exciirsicMi was made, on which Hall \i>ited the north Fcncland of I-'roljisher ; and in .Inly, the ship having' Icit her aiichora^'c in search of whales, he took up his ahodc with l""d)ierltiii!4' on shoi'c, and with him I'cnewed his explorations ol' the countiy. lindinn" '*" ''••'^ irip.s pieces of sea-cual, furtlicr contirmiiiL; the old Iraditiot IS, To satislV liiiusolf more riuidlv, lie duu' down inii the centre of a coal-heaj), "aroniid and l>eiioath clods of tliickly-inattc(l ^rass, around and beneath stunted willow, and 'erowberry' slirnhs. around and beneatli mosses, and wherever ho made tliese examinations, be found coal. Many places overo-rown with yrass be examined, dii;- gino- down a dej)tli of several incbes and overturnino- sods exliibitiiii; coal at tbe base, tben a layer of sand and coal, then unotber layer of two or tbree incbes of sand overlapped by interbicked roots, whence 1 ,' I! W PASSINti TIlKOL'tiH I.^PTON <'II \NNK friMii Hull i •Arilii: lU'Scurchta. ' IlariKT Urotlicrii. 1 i , * V, iii^ hi I I ■ 'f , r 184 A.MKIMCAN l-:Xi'L(»i:ATl()NS IN TUK |CK ZONKS. exteiuU'd tlirii'ty grass. The roots oi" the stunted willow. Iiiilf an in,!, ill (liaiiieter at the l)ase of the tniiik, pierced down into the sand ami theiue into coal! On examination of many ]tieees of eoal, bedded- some, iu grass, some in sand, and some in moss — the u\)\h-v side . \. posed to the air, was found to be covered witii ])ellicles of black iii.is>, such as one iinds upon the rocks of ages." INHIAN SUMMER VILLAGE. From nail's "Arctic Researches." Ilo'iicr Brothers. Tliis convinced him that tliis coal had lain there for centuries ; and by other strong indications he was justified in referring it to the Frobisher voyages of looT-looO. During the month of August, he completed the survey of the bay he had now discovered. An interesting boat-voyage was made on this exploration. He ieti the ship Avith three natives and their wives, encountering at first nuuli ice driven in from the Straits, and u thick fog, and in the eveninu reached the entrance of Lupton Channel, through wliich a strong tide was running into Field Bay, "foaming, whirling, roaring, and boilinu stnngs str NKW KIsroVKIMKS. IH.") Ha^fc^MP*^ -I^^Mpa^; |il<, I liiiildroM ; '" l)y (lint of liurd |»nlliiiLr tlic boat j^ot tlin»n<;li. In ;i iii|.ik on shore, after i good sn|>|)fr on seals, dncks. and colVec. (•(Kikt'il with wood from the wreekt-d ship " 'rravcMer,"' the jKUty weic cldsilv jtucked for the nii;ht. W'hiU? passino- throngh iJear Sonnd. Hall witnessed a novel nKMlr (iT securing; dneks. Whenever one of the lloek which had dived on ihc watrr poj)ped up its head, the Innuits made a great noise throwing' ;i'iiiut their hands and arms to frighten tlie bird down again, and re- |ic;itnig this same noise and frantie gestuiH's withont a moment's breatli- iiii^-tinie for the terrilied dnek, until in about seven minutes it eame tn ihe stu'laee 11 1 1 (■ r 1 y e X- liiiiisted, and \\;is easily ea])- lured. I»ylhis |i r (» (■ •' s s o i (I r (I w n i n g iliirks. (piite a iiiiiiiber were scciiicMl amid tilt' boisterous iiicrriiiiciit of llie natives, whleh was eehoetl from the roeks of the Sound. At a native summer village visited on the route, the women were t'ouiid busily ooeui)ied in sewing up skins to make a /cui. The covering (if the boat was hung over a pole resting on the roeks, everything being k(>pt wet, while the women worked their sewing by large braided thread (if white whale-sinews. Venison and seal meat were lumg to dry on strings stretched along the ridge of eaeh tupik ; at tliat season [)rovis- iiiiis were abundant. In September, the most interesting discoveries were made. On the top of liishop's Island, from which the whole coast could be seen, were tnuiid the ruins of u liouse, which had been built of stone, cemented with lime and sand, every part of it being covered with old moss, and on tlie north side of the Island was found an excavation, wliich was called TllK TKENCII. ONK "F F1!01USIIKKS "(ioI.O .MINKS." Kriiiii U:ill's ".Xn til- |{r»iiiirlii'«." Il'irpi I' lirnlliiTS. '11 1 n i ! ih(; AAlEiaCAX EXPLORATIONS IX THK ICE ZONES. ji shii/s trench, for the Jniuiits said that was where a shij) had been built by white ineu. It had been dug out of stone, whiiJi was of sucli a nature as to yield to the persevering use of piek-axe, sledge-haiinnei', and the crowbar. The bottom of the trench, which was one huinhcd and ten feet in length, was an inclined plane, running from the siirl'iicc of the ground to a depth of twenty -five feet at the water's edge. From what Hall saw he was fully convinced that very many yours ago, men of civilization did live on this island, called by the Innuits Kodlunarn^ and that they built a vessel, probably a schooner, tluiv. The trcjich b} the shore, on the inclined plane, was such as is used in building a ship on stocks ; there were ruins of three stone houses. Ix'sidcs coal, ilint-stone, fragments of tile, glass and pottery, and large niassus of iron pyrites or bisulphide of iron. The finding of this and its signi- ficance can be gathered from the following facts: Of the one huiKJitd men sent out from Enghxnd with Frobisher in 1578, the majority weic •'miners,"' sent for the express purpose of digging for the "rich on'" of which Frobisher had carried specimens home on his return ridiii his second voyage, — the ore being supposed to be very valuable, tlic miners made proofs in va • '- parts of the regions then discovcicd. It was some of these pro V: "^h.^'^h had now been found, and lluy showed that Hall had bee.« jn the precise spot of the Countess of Warwick's mine. Delighted with these discoveries, and gatluMino- up as many relics as he could carry in his old stockings, mittens. luit, and everything that would hold them safely, he labelled each article and returned to his companions in the boat, on tlie "27tli. regaining the shij) in Parker's Bay. The company were warmly welcomed, as both the ship's crew and Innuits had scarcely exjiected his safe return in the leaky whaleboat of their journey. Hall liiid with him Sir John Barrow's "Chronological History," which gave him in substance tliis account of i i- 1 ■ ■ ,1 i 1 ! ^^^1 i iMi ' iiy|Un|Li . h frorlsher's three voyages. In tlie year 157r). by tlie countenance and assistani^e of Dudlcv. Earl of Warwick, and a few friends, Frobisher was able to fit out two small barks, the '' Gabrie^ " of thirty-five, and the " Michael " of thirty fkohisher's "fool's gold. 187 tons, tof'ether with a i)iniiaee of ten tons. With this little squadron li,. iiiciiared to set out on his important expedition, and on the 8th of Juno passed Greenwich, where the court then was, "'id Queen Kli/,;il)i'th bade tliem farewell by shaking her hand at them out of the Avillili'W. .Inly 111 1570, the ships came in sight of Friesland, rising like piuuiicles of steeples, and all covered with snow. This islaml, whose posifiiiH has 80 greatly puzzled ffeogra})he7's, could not be the Friesland of Zeiio, but, being in 61° of latitude, was evidently the southern part (,f (iit'cnland. The floating ice obliged Frobisher to stand to the south- west, till he got sight of J^abrador, along the coast of which he then >t(i(iil to the westward, but could neither reach the land, nor get sound- iii(fs on account of the ice. Sailing to the northward he met with a (ricat ishitid of ice, which fell in pieces, making a noise as it a great (liifc had fallen into the sea. After this he entered a strait in lat. ii:r .*>'. This strait, to which his name was given from his being its first (lisiovcrer, is the same which was afterwards named Lumley's Inlet, Imt Krobisher's Strait was for a long time supposed bg geographers to hiirr cut off' a portion from Old Greenland^ till Mr. Dalrym[)le and (ithcrs showed the fallacy of such a supposition. . . . Frohisher set sail for England and arrived at Harwich on the 2d of October, 'highly commended by all men for his greate and notable atrcni))!, — but si)ecially famous for the great hope he brought of the passage to Cathaia.' That hope, however, would probably have (lit'd away, but for an accidental circumstance which had been dis- iVL;aii"eceding year, flicy arrived oft" the nortli foreland, otherwise Hall's island, so called alter the man who had picked up the golden ore, and who was now niastei of the " Gabrielle." They proceeded some distance up the Strait. when, on the 18th of July, the general taking the gold finers with him. landed near the spot where the ore had been picked up, but could imi find in the whole island "a piece as bigge as a walnut," but all the neighboring islands are stated to have good store of the ore. On the loji of a high hill, about two miles from the shore, "they made a cohnime or crosse of stones, heaped up of a good height together in good sort. and solemidy sounded a trumpet and saide certaine prayers, kneeliiiijf about the ensigne, and honored the place b}'' the name of Moiiiii Warwicke. . . . They now stood over to the southern shore of I'ln- bisher's Strait, and landed on a small island with the gold Hneis tn search for ore ; and here all the sands and eliffes did so glister, auu hiul WIJEC'K OV Fll0131SllI<:i;"s KHiET. 189 so bnulit a inarquesite, that it seemed all to be golde, but upon tryall iiiiiil , it proved no better than black lead and veritied the proverbc : — • all is not golde that glistcreth.' "... As the season was far advanced and the General's commission directed liii.i 1(1 search for gold ore, and to defer the further discovery of the |),iss>i'4t' till another time, they set about the lading of the ships, and in ilii; spiice of twenty days, with tlie help of a few genthMuen and soldiers ndt oil board almost two hundred tons of ore. On the 22d of August, alter making bf»iifires on the highest mount (Ui this island, and tiring a vull(\ lor a farewell "in honor of the Right lion. Lady Anne Countess ,ii W'arwicke, whose name it beareth," they set sail homewards, and alit 1 I stormy jtassagc, llu-y all arrived safe in different ports of (Jreat liritain, with the loss of only n\n> man by sickness, and another wlu) was washed overboard. ... ;;i! THIltl) VOYAGE (18o7). 'llic (^iieen and her court were so highly delighted "in finding that tiif matter of the gold ore had appearance, and made show <»f great riches and profit, and the hope of the passage to Cathaia by this last vnya'^'e greatly increased:" that after a minute examination by Com- iiiissioiiers specially appointed, the voyage was determined to be higlily wmiliy of being followed up. The Queen gave the name of Meta hi( iiuiiita to the newly-discovered countr}', on which it was resctlved to (■>uil)lish a eolony. . . . The fleet sailed from Harwich the olst May, 1"i7n. and, on the 20th of June discovered West Friesland, which they iinw named West England. . . . Thc}^ found the Strait choked up \\\\\\ ire, and the l)ark "Dennis"" received such a blow with a rock (if i<(' that she immediately sank, but the i)eople were all saved. A violent storm now came on and the whole fleet was dispersed. . . . Tlioy all, however, arrived at various ports of England about the 1st of October, with tlie loss by death of about forty persons. NEW HOPES. Ihe investigations which Hall had now made in connection with the tniditions received iV(»ni the natives, were a large compensation for the ■\ ^ itil ! ■ y S f ,y: t. Win UH 190 AMEinCAN liXI'LoHATIONS IN Till', l( T, /.OMOM. (lisappniutnu'Mt of his (irst plmiH. Ilo hogaii lo (liiiik (hut li«< mii^Ih \v\ hope t\)r the rcjiliziitittii of those oiirlicr (hvsigns, iiiid for the wintef. Captain lludington expressed his tii, inks to Hall for his diseoverv of this pack, without the kns «»f adding to the Iradilionarv information he had galln nd on this point of st» mueh histoiic interest. AeeustonuMl I»y this lime lu the exposures of an Arelie wintei', and ha\ing made sulheient ad\;iii(i' ii\ his us(> o( Inuuit words to put (piestions to the natives and nihlci- staud many o\' their i'epli(>s. his dilVunilties h>ssened,and his oecup.iiiniis brought to him ineri'asing interest and value. 'I'lu^ ship's eompany w»M'e not fully supplied with |)rovisions l.ii n seeond wint(M-. but uere ma(h> eond'orlable by the labors of the Iniiints in lh(Mr hunts of th(< s(»al and the walrus. On th(> oe«'asions of tliciitrn ,il performauees on board, the Innuits crowded in, freipicnlly aiuusinL; ilic erew by their pcu'forniances o\\ the Key-low-tik, and the superstitions o\' the Au-ge-ko — customs which will be described hereafter. In the middle of Dej'cndier, the tlKM'ininnettM- being 20° below /cni. Hall made an excursion of a week to the point named .lon(>s' ('ii|ii'. He notes a singular incident oci'urring to his dog-team. "When iIkv }mt their feet into the snow and seu-waler, it was like sh'pping inic ii Hood of molten gold, and the phos|>hoveseent light thus produced was not c«uitined to the s]xice beneath the dogs and the sleds, but spn ad itself around and continued for several seconds." The season was not without an experience of suffering by the natives rliomselves: several dying from the disease of ej)nsnmption, and a num- ber of their toils and hunts being made without success. Tiny re- ceived among them at different limes one or two of the ship's new" sent to recover their health on ii;loo food. NATIVK III T-IUMMHN«J. 191 III llirnirly pari orilic s|iriii,i,Mir lHtl2, Hall ititwciI liis cxiilnriilinnH ill .iiiij iu'oiind tlic liai'lM)!', iiiiil ii|)vt>r<'il :inn}^iie\vin^ in nine liimis, tin y rniiml siiiiie (»r tlie wlialei's crew livinLJ there, iind in i^ntod liealtli, and II, ill liiiiiMeir remained tlieie fur some days. I{esnniin<^f Ids tii|i lie went mil on lliesea-iee, making ^ood advanee willi ii wled heavily laden witli /,,-//• ( wall ns-hide ), and at lonr r.M. tested in an if^lno. lll'ILMIN2 AMKUICAN EXl'LOUATIONS IN THE ICK ZONKS. far advaiiced, the iiiiiin door was cut out of the crystal white wall, uud tlic walrus-ineat and others wore pass* ( I in. Then both openings were sealed up, and all within were made hajipy in the enjoyment of com- forts that would hardly he dreamed ol by those at home." IJut from the '2'Id of the month, for nearly ten weary days, Hall liud tt> remain encamped on the main ice oft" the land, an HIS SKAI,-nOO. From Hull s "Arctic Kesi'aRlic'8." Ilurpur UmchiTs. unsuccessful in every attempt lo secure either the seal, the walrus, the white whale, or any c^ame. The only food within the igloo was the kow (walrus-hide) with the hair on ; their lamp was without oil, and without it they could liave no fresh water. The capture of two seals at last brought relief. Again jji-essing forward, he completed a lengthened exploration of nearly two months, arriving at the George Henry's anchorage May -I. The details of this journey and of his survey occupy a large space in the volume of his " Researches." His corrections of the charts of the lociili- NATIVE DKESW. 193 tiis txainincd have been of value to the wliaHng fleets, which have fiMiiinued, though with less frequency, to visit them. His ('Xi)eiience of Eskimo life and forced self-adaptation to it, hfgun (III this voyage, seems, strangely enough, to have carried its attractions tliidiiLjh the second visitation and residence of five years, which is yet to lie described. His acc^uaintance with the inside life of the degraded iiiid tlic superstitious, and with their modes of obtaining their supitlies, will be best portrayed by selections from the records of liis later resi- (U'licf; what here follows may show his first impressions correilcd by those experiences. As regards the appearance of the Innuits, as he justly prefers to call them, without noting their average low stature, so well known, even in coiiiparison with that of those on the northwestern American coast. Hail notes that the women were found generally tattooed on the fore- head, cheeks, and chin. The process for this is simply the drawing of ii soot-blackened reindeer-sinew thread under and through the skin by a needle ; the tattooing is done from principle ; the lines, as they believe, will be regarded in the next world as a sign of goodness. Neither for the females of this region nor for those around Hudson's Bay does he express liimself in any connnendation of an attractive personal appearance, thus indicating a contrast between these and the natives of Greenland, of whom each Arctic voyager has spoken in praise. The native dress for winter is of reindeer-skin ; for summer, of the seal. The round jacket without opening in front or behind is slipped over the head, is close-fitting, comes as low as the hips, and has sleeves reaching to the wrists. It has a liood at the back for covering the head in euld weather, or carrying the children (see page 176), and is often very elaborately ornamented. The wife of one of the natives hor' tier jacket trimmed thus: Across the neck a fringe made of eighty pendants of red, blue, black, and white glass beads, forty on each string ; on the Hap in front, bowls of Britannia metal, tea and table-spoons ; on the tail reaching nearly to the ground, six pairs of federal copper cents pendant down the middle ; and a huge brass bell from some old-fashioned chjck at the top of the row of cents. In winter two jackets are worn, the inner •it! H'ii Ji! ' I .1- 194 AMKISICAN KXlM.oirATIONS IN THE ICK ZONES. one with tlio hair next tliu l)o(ly. Tlicir brcecheii reach below tlie kin'o, and arc lasteiied witli a strinj; drawn tij^htly around the lower ))ari of tlie waist. Those worn by the women are put on in thi' e pieces, (mcIi le^ and tlie body forming separate parts. 'riie t'nll winter dress consists of: first, long stockings of reindeer I'm', with the hair next the iierson; second, socks of liie eider-duck skins. with the feathers on and inside: tiiird, socks of sealskin, with tlio hair (Hitside; fourtii, kumings (native boots), with legs of tuktud, the fur outside, and the soles uf ook-gook. All wear mittens, though the women generally wear only one, and that one on the i ii^ht hand; the left is drawn witliin the sleeve. The mode of capture of the licar. the reindeer, the whale, and iIk- walrus will be noted in the ac- count of the Second Expeiliiidn, Hall, at an early period of his lii>i voyage, noticed two remarkahlc qualities in the native character. wliich have a strong bearing u|i(iii their success in obtaining a liveli- hood. One of these is the accu- racy with which they sketcli the lines of coast and the ice-font, aid- ing their journeyings; outlines ui' marke SK.AL-IOI.OO. — Xo. 1. Fidiii Mull's "Arctic Ucsuurchus." Ilurpcr llrutlicrs. KTIMKINCJ FOU A SKAL 111." liii,s ill the t'iiplication with formulas responded to hy tlie company. The An-gc-ko is employed also in an- kooting for success in the hunts, for the disappearance of the ice, ami for a good season. On more than one occasion he was found to he graspingly covetous and otherwise immoral, hut is almost uidvci sally feared and obeyed. The name An-gc-ko was rcjiorted to mean •• he i> very great." RETUKX TO THE UNITKI) STATES. Hall's return from this first voyage was now compelled hy the it- lease of the ship, the whaling season of the year having ended. He liad acquired some useful knowledge of Eskimo life and language, iIk' further in which he advanced the more he hoped to turn it to advan- tage on a renewed voyage. August 9, the "George Henry" took a final leave of the inmates of the bay, a crowd of whom surrounded her in their Kias and Oo-miens, waving their partings and shouting tlicir Ter-hou-e-tie Cfarewell). In his Journal, three months before, he lia EinKIlKlNO. From Hull's "A»iti.' Itcsciircliis. " Ifiirinr lirutlum. \' I 1 1 1 1 - ' ( i hi 198 AMKItlCAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. hope, lU'ter what I have done here in the North, I shall have no insiir- niountable obstacle to overcome in preparing for that voyage. Tliat the Innuits are still living who knew all about the mysterious termina- tion of the Franklin Expedition, 1 have not the shadow of a douhi. What is requisite is to visit those regions, get acquainted with ihc Innuits there, become familiar with their language, and thon learn the liistory." The two natives had expressed a desire to go to the United States, fearing oidy that their child might die on board ship; at an hour's notice, with their cliild and their sealnlog, they were on Unir way to the barque from their hut, seven miles distant. Af*^^er working through the ice for twenty-four hours, the banpir was fairly at sea. Without any special incident except their falling short of provisions and their inability to obtain relief from ships met with, the "George Henry" reached St. John's August 23, and New- London September 13, 1802, — Hall thus ending his voyage and exi>l(i- rations of two years and three and a half months in and about tho Arctic Seas. But he was already planning a Second Expedition. :ii ESKmO LAMP. CHAPTER VII. JIALL'S SECOND ARCTIC EXPEDITION. — RESIDENCE AM()N(; THE ESKIMOS 1804 TO IKOit.* I'Kl.l'AIlATOUY LABOIJS. — PAPER BEPORK THK AMERICAN GKOCIIAPHI- CAI. SOCIKTV. — FROIJISHER RELICS SENT TO LONDON AND TO THE SMITHSONIAN. — LECTURES. — I'LANS FOR THJ: NKW VOVAOK. — SAILINO OF THE " MONTICELLO." — LANDING AT WHALE PoINT. — FlItST INTKRCOUUSE WITH THK NATIVES. — FEASTING. — ANKOOT- IN(i. — THE KEY-EOW-TIK. — WALJtUS HUNT. — NEW YEAW's DAY. — SEALING. — hall's FIRST PRIZE. — CAPTURE OF A WHALE. — WINTER QUARTERS AT FORT HOPE. — HALL's DAILY LIFE. — AURO- KAS. — REFRACTION AND PARHELIA. — NATIVE MAPPIN(!. — UNSUC- CESSFUL ADVANCE WESTWARD. — FRANKLIN RELICS. — JOURNEY TO CAPE WEYNTON. — JOURNEY TO FU!:YAND HECLA STRAITS. — A MUTINEER. — JOURNEY TO IGLOOLIK. — VISIT TO KING WILLIAM's LAND. — FRANKLIN RELICS. — CAPTURE OF THE THIRD WHALE. — UETUI'.N TO THE UNITED STATES. PREPARATORY LABORS (18C2-C4). HAIwL'S preparations for his second Expedition occupied a period of two years. Tlie labors of those years, by showing the successful results of his first voyage, and by the interest created through the publication of his "Arctic Researches," secured his secoiul outfit. The residence among the Eskimos which followed gave him a longer Arctic experience than that of any other explorer. The purpose of the first voyage, defeated, as has been shown, by the Idss of his boat, was but strengthened by defeat. Of this he gave * The Narrative of this Expedition, and that of Hall's third, — tlie " North Polar Expe- dition of 1871," — have been drawn up from tlie material placed before the anthor while on dnty on this subject at the U. S. Naval Observatory. To the oflicial records and corre- siiondencc of these Expeditions then furnished, favorable opportunities offered themselves for supplementing some of Hall's Journals by the receipt of his correspondence with his i'li()i(!e friends, Mr. Henry Grinnell, Mr. J. C- Brevoort, of New York, and Captain Buil- iuiitou and Mr. J. J. Copp, of New London. Conn. For the use of some of the illustra- tions acknowledgments are due to Prof. Baird of the Smithsonian, and Dr. E. Bessels. 169 .1 ■ Hi '■ ' iliiil: • . ■r I r I 1! m '•'.■\ ill n i I i 200 AMEUICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. renewed proof, before reaching the United States, by a telegram fiom St. Johns, Newfoundland — a dispatch which began with the words "I am bou)id for the States to reneio voyaije^'' and which reads througliuut more like news from an excursionist than from one who had been li^lit- ing his way through two Arctic winters. The fortitude into which \w had been discii)lined will be seen to nave shown itself steadily throuyh the two succeeding years of working and waiting. On his arrival in New London, placing the Eskimos under the eaic of Captain IJudington, he made a short visit to Cincinnati. While tlicrc his letters evinced much concern as to the opinions which the Eiijf- lisli i)eople might form from the reports in the press of a hasty impros- sion received iVoni him that he had probably determined the fate of llic two boats' crews of Franklin's Expedition. He had been led into tliis error 1)}^ a party of Sekoselar Innuits, but promptly corrected it in lliu columns of the New York press, and, afterwards, more fully in a pa]i('i' read before the American Geographical Society, and in the "Arctic lu- searclu's." His apprehensions were that before the first corrections could reach England, the error would prejudice the English against tlic genuineness of the discoveries he had been making in the region vis- ited. The apprehension proved to have been groundless. It however induced Hall to decline lecturing in Cincinnati, and to entertain a new idea in regard to the proper disposition of the relics. He naturally set a value on Ids late explorations, and had reason to suppose they would interest the English people. He believed that tlic account given by Frobisher himself was so indefinite that, for nearly three hundred years, the civilized world had been in doubt of the pri'- cise localities. Up to the time of this visit of 1861 no opportunity had been embraced for identifying them, or for confirming other ac- counts which Frobisher had given. The Admiralty chart of 1858, and that furnished by the volume of DeHaveu's Expedition, still had u})()ii them tlie so-called "Strait," which was supposed to be a passage west- ward to the further part of Hudson's Bay; but navigators liad always chosen Hudson's Straits in passing to and from that bay. Had any one attempted the passage through what was laid down on their charts as Frobisher's Strait, they must have failed to pass through. He IkhI SrU MAUTIN. '201 rca-'iii for desiring to prove the genuineness of his discoveries, and li, , \-i)ressed a wish to place his proofs before a committee that might lie iiii)ointed in London to examine liis notes, his relics, and himself. MAUTINUS FUOBISHKUUS EQUKS AUUATUS. From " Tilt! Tliree V.iyuj!c8 i>f' Frobisher," editi'd by the lite Ailmiral Collinson, R. N. Sir Martin's name was that of one of the first Englishn.en to sail in (|ucst of the passage, and it was one of no loss fame under Drake and llnward, for in 1588 he was knighted for service under tlie High Admi- ral Howard against the Armada. 'i? -:) \i it i ' Hi i^M w r ■' 1' ■; i aiji '', ■ i 1 Id ill ' 1 Hj SKflf i H 1 i^'^ ' ' it' ■ ' ' ■■- il'l ' 1 ii : ' 1 ' 1 "l :' iittj-' >■- '' i: i 1 ! ! I ■iJi" I . I 1 5 ■ l' ■1 ; t !■ .|t :■ 1 ' ' 1= {^J 202 >MEUICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. Hall's enthusiasm prompted him to say that the age of his ix'li( s. and the remarkable circumstances attending them, stamped tlioni as worthy gifts for Queen Victoria. Barrow had taught him that tlie expeditions of Sir jNIartin were among the favorite objects of Elizahcih. who had shown her favor by throwing around his neck a chain of t;nli|. Conferring, however, with Mr. Grinnell, in New York, he (U'ciilcd to send the relics out to England, in place of exhausting his own means and delaying his plans hy a visit to London. At a meeting of the American Geographical Society of New Yuik. introduced by Mr. Grinnell, he made a report, which will be iniiiid noted in their "Proceedings" of the year, under the title of "An Ab- stract of a Paper on some Arctic Discoveries." In this paper, alter referring to his statements before the Society made two years previ- ously, he re-stated in full the original purpose of his late voy.ige to visit King William's Land and Boothia, and there spend two years, if needed, in gathering materials for concluding in a more satisfaeliirv way the history of Franklin's Expedition ; to recover the logs of the ships "Erebus" and "Terror," with all other manuscripts belongiiio to that Expedition ; and especially to rescue some lone survivor or sur- vivors, that peradventure might be found living with the Eskimos. He then gave an account of Messrs. Williams and Haven's generously free conveyance to Northumberland Inlet, of himself and his Eskimo companion, Kud-la-go, with his boat, provisions, and stores; of his lioat being wrecked ; and of his long residence with the natives, (luriiio' which he had ingratiated himself with them, adopting their s^yle of dross, living in their snow-huts, and feeding on their raw whale-skin. walrus, and seal-meat. With some exultation, he said that in Sei)tember, 18G1. he had landed on an island which the Innuits and their ancestors from time immemorial had called Kod-lu-Narn^ or White Man's Island, from the tradition that strangers had lived there and tried to escape from it : that on this island he had found remains of stone houses, coal, ivoii, and glass, all covered with tlite moss of ages ; and that he had visited every accessible i)lace named by the Eskimos as connected with the fate of the strangers there, "many, many years ago." He added his DISCUSSION OF THE RELICS. 203 eoiivittions that he had thus been the tirst to revisit the precise locali- ties lit" Frobisher's expeditions, quoting from TIakluyt and other works, ill w liich the materials taken out by Frobisher for the erection of stone /////(.sr.s' and everything necessary for the colony of one hundred men are (lotailcd , and he exhibited the specimens which he had brought from tlio ruins, asking the Geographical Society to inspect them rigidly in eviilciice for or against his statements. lie then showed that during his two years' northern residence he had explored over one thousand miles of coast, making as careful a suivcy as his means and instruments permitted, and proving that the water which had for three centuries been calUid Frobisher's Strnit was a wide bay , adding, " Inasmuch as I have failed in the great object for wliicli I went out, it is my intention to try again in the following spring." Donations of the relics were sent to the Smithsonian Institution, and a i)art of the geological collections presented to the New York Lyceum (if Natural History was the subject of Reports by Mr. R. P. Stevens anil Ml'. Thomas Eggleston. . A discussion of another part of the col- lection by Professor Emerson of Amherst College, endorsed by Pro- fessor White of the United States Geological Survey of the Territories, forms Appendix 3 of the volume of "Hall's Second Arctic Expedition," published by the United States Senate in 1879. With the relics sent to the Royal Geographical Society was a carefully prepared outline sketch of the bay, and three diagram maps, one of them tlie Countess of Warwicke Sound. Commander Becher, R.N., of the Admiralty, who had written elab- orately of these old voyages, wrote to Hall, "I have no doubt of 5'our relics being those left by Frobisher's party." His correspondence abroad produced also a valuable incidental result, the is^uo of a new volume of the "Hakluyt Series," in which the late Admiral Collinson, R.N., the well-known Arctic explorer, of the relief ship " Enterprise " (sec Table II., page 29), has given a rare edition of the Frobisher voyages, cordially dedicating it "to Henry Grinnell, of New York, as a tribute of respect and admiration, not only for his conduct and gen- erous co-operation in the search for Sir John Franklin and his com- lliiji m !??! J, I ! > I ( > } 1 \^ "ii. ni .1 i il',. :- i 1 : ■ 204 AMUinCAN KXPLOIJATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. panioiis, but for the iutorest ho had shuwu in, iind the aid ho liad uttonkul to, Pohir oxi)h)iatioii in tho present day." 'J'he iV(huiral gives an extended eataU)gue of Hall's relies, wiiich uere to be ileposited in London with the Franklin relies brought back by J{ae and MeC'lintoek. C'ajjtain Heeher eourteously forwarded alsci to Hall the eharts, whieh he might Iind useful. He now entered on a eonrse of lectures for securing aid toward the Second Kxi)edition, and for his own su[)j)ort and that of the l^skiiims. tlelivering these to large audiences in Providence, Norwich, Ilaittuiil. New Haven, Hudson, Klniira, and other cities; exhibiting on his maps the routes of the old voyagers, Frobisher, Davis, liallin, and otlnis. and his own recent explorations. The Eskimo family were alwavs objects of much interest, Too-koo-litoo showing an unex[)ected know]. edge of the geography of lier country, and reminding Arctic stu(l('lll^ of tho native woman, I-lig-li-uk, and lier chai't drawn for Parry. Tin. lecturer could not claim polish or ease of oratory, but secured ilusc iittention by the tact and enthusiasm of these conversational dis- cussions. His friends regretted that under its general rule against |)av lectures, the Smithsonian Institution could not tender the audieino- room to whieh Kane and Hayes had been invited, for he had hoped to interest the ollicers of the governnuMit at Washington in an appro[iria- tion by Congress for a new voyage. Tho proceeds of his lectiucs secured but little beyond the necessary expenses ; they made IVii'inls for him, but as to pecuniary gain, he "was worse off than when lie started out." Yet he pushed forward his plans. To the credit of his sincerity and intelligent thoughtfulness, it should be noted that lie kept his mind under the iniluence of the counsels and the example df leaders who had themselves i)assed to success only through dishearten- ing trials. In his private note-books are to be found, underscured almost word by word, such maxims as these: "Our greatest glory con- sists not in falling, but in rising every time we fall." "The question is not the number of facts a man knows, but how much of a fact he is himself." He remembered that Henr}', the revered Secretary oi tiie Smithsonian, had said he had "freely given to the world the results of his labors, expecting only in return to enjoy the consciousness of I; WHALES TO BE CAITURED. 205 Iiiiviiiuf added to the sum of huimiii happiness." And Sinithson hud wiiiU'ii, "Every iiiaii is a vahiahle member of society, who, by his olisiivations, researches, and experiments, procures knowledge for IIR'II."" NEW PLANS. On the 17th of March, 1803, an anxiously-awaited conferencje wan jicM with Mr. (Jrinnell, and Mr. R. II. ('hai>ell, of tlm lutuse of Wil- li;ii IS and Haven, New Lon(h)n, at which Hall presented the notes for his Srcond Kx])edition, the chief of which included the followinj^ ideas, under the head of his " Proposed Expedition to Boothia and Kin<^ WiUiam's Land, for the final determination of all the mysterious matters relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition." A vessel of about two hundred tons to be furnished and ])rovisioncd lor two years and six months; the same to be under Hall's command. Tlic vessel to be fitted out for whaling, the object beiniif to have the whole expense of the Expedition paid by the proceeds of whalebone and oil; to gc on or before the 1st of June of the present year, and make direct for the north side near the entrance of Frobisher's Bay ; there to take aboard three or four Eskimos, with their wives, also sledges and dogs ; then to make for Hudson's Strait ; thence to Hud- son's Bay, west side, south to Southampton Island; thence up the channel of Sir Thomas Rowe's Welcome to Repulse Bay. If whales were found on the wa}', to secure as many as possible, yet no further delay to be allowed than would admit of getting into Repulse Bay by or on the 1st of September of the same year ius starting. If it were found advisable under certain contingencies for the vessel to proceed at once to other whale-grounds than that of Repulse Bay, she must do so after having landed him and his party and outfit for land service, to wit, for his expedition from Repulse Bay to King William's Land. A cheap, portable frame house was to be constructed in the States iuid landed at the Bay, to be used there for storing provisions therein, and also as a residence. 'r u K I 1 ! fi ! 1 1 • k - '1 i r \ t ;L iiJi i-l V ( ,fr' 1 :! Hi Hi. 20G AMKIMCAN KXI'LOIIATIONS IN TIIK UK ZONKS. l>y csliiMisliiii^' lic;i(l(iiiiiit('i's at tlie Itay. Iiaviiit;- llu'ie a wlialc'iniit strongly ('(instnictcd. aiul liaviun' llicrt' also Krohislicr IJay I^skiiiK,^. llit'if in'c(l l)f no liiii(U'raiicc to the I'orcc t'liiployctl on lliu vt'sscl tii.in jiioscciitiiiL;' to till' I'lillcst cMciit tlicir wlialiiii;' business. Till' whole cxpi'iisc ol' tlic I'^xju'ditioii to Itc paid iVoin the iirocciK of the wlialiiiif l)raiu'li. [)rovidiii<;' the aiuoiiiit waiiaiits it. Mr. (irimicll and ^Ir. Cliaiicll approved the ideas ol' this jihin. hiit at the date named, during' the reverses oi' tlieAvariiotyeteiided.il \\;i, no time lor either eoiiiniei'eial lioiis>' to take the risks ol' snecos jn Mhalini;' juirsuits. ]Mr. (irinnell hail already exiJcnded on iVretie e\|M'- dilioiis hetweeii one hundred thousand and one liiindred and tiltv thousand dollars, and had mot with reeeiit losses. After tlie study of otlu'r jilans, involvinj;' essentially the same idciis of the emphtyment of a sliij) and of eonipanions on his ])ro|)osed jonr- uev. and lindint;' each of tln'se impra('lieal)le for Avant of J'unds. Hall aeeepteil a ])ro]>osition I'roin Mr. C'hapell to go out on a free passa^^e in a Avhaler with his two Ivskimo I'rieuds onlv. 1:1! i IIAI.L SAIT.1N(J IN TIII^. " ."MONTK'EIJ.O." July 1, 1S()4. the " Moiitiei'lJo," ii wlialor of three liuudred and iifly- six tens register, eommaiided hv Captain K. .\. ('ha])el of Hudson. New York, sailed from ^'ew London, aeoonii)anied by the tender '"Helen !•".."' of one hundi'ed tons. HalTs liome eorrespondeni-c was closed on lioiinl l)y his acknowledgments to Messrs. Harpers, his publishers; forwardiii'^ to tlii'm his last cori'ccted itrooi-sheets of the vohnue of the •■ Ijc- seaichcs."' Arriving at St..Iolins, he received from U.S. ("oi.sul l.cacli and other citizens many t(daek, or meetinj^ an iiui)assal)le barrier made fast to an icf- berg. August 1, her iron-plated bow struck so heavily on the lniiii- mocks, that her crew were in waiting to juni[) from her for their li\ts. Walruses were more than once seen basking in the ice; undislin lud, POLAR OF HUDSON'S STRAIT. they raised their ferocious heads as the ship swept by, and then lollod over into the sea. August 3. — A huge Polar was captured. On the chase of iliis animal by a boat's crew, Bruin soon scented his pursuers, and wliin a mile off, jie shuffled to and fro on the ice, shook his head, showed his tusks and roared furiously at them; then, dropping stern foremost into the sea, began a swim at the rate of fully six knots. Ebierbing's rille. at the distance of fifty yards, brought him a lifeless carcass on the water, HALL LANDS ON DEPOT ISLAND. 209 jiikI ill thirty nnmites tVoin the beginning; df the chnse it uas on hoard ^|ii|,. Some of the iiieiisureinents of Ninoo No. 1 were: — Kstiiimloil wi'ight l,UH»llts. L»'iij,'tli from snout to t'lul of tail t< ft. .'iA in, Ciiriimforoncc of tht- niiildio 7 ft. 4 in. Lcnjilh of front teetli, iNicli 7 in. 'llic Eskimo had seiireely iiuished cuttinjj up this I'ohir, w hen he \viis I'll lor a second one wliich was seen aslee[) some two mik's from the ship, iind he secured the prize after twelve shots, the twelfth piercing the brain. The number of sliots is not unusual, a bear sometimes set-ming to hiive tlie fabled lives of the cat. I'ohir No. 1 was immensel}' fat, his paunch was empty. 'V\\v skin, the I'at, and the meat were saved. The meat was eaten and p.irtially relished by the crow ; the inwards, except their fat covering, were thrown away, as unhealthful. From the two bears over seventy gallons of good oil were secured; in the paunch of the second bear were found about six gallons of seal oil. The ship's course across the bay was ended on the 20th by her anchoring at Depot Island, hit. 63° 47' N. Ion. 89° 51" W. The English name of the island had been giveu to it by Captaiu Chapel on a former voyage, the Eskimo name being Pik-e-u-la. ■ UNFORTUNATK LANDINGS. But the landing here was again a grievous disai)[)ointmcnt to the explorer. He had hoped to do some good surveying work on Marble Island, the original destination of the two ships, and perhaps to discover the remains of the most unfortunate Expedition, under Knight and Barh)w, which perished there in 1719. Mate Chester, who accom[)anied the party to the island, estimated the weight of IlalTs boat and outfit at only one thousand four hundred pounds. It was twenty -eight feel. long, with a five feet ten inch beam, and of but twenty-six inches (h-pth, wiii'u fully loaded. The whaler left the harbor on her first cruise of the season, and Hall began his five years' Arctic life; a tent was erected and some ol)serva- tions made for position. The game secured on the 22d footed up nine petuhirks aud one wild goose. (• i . \ 1: )! i 210 AMKKK^AN KXI'LOUATIONS IN THE ICE ZOXES, lie had nou the olVer uf an iissistiint in a Mr. ilu(h)li)h, one oi i||^ crew of a whaU'r which had come in; and as the man had spt-iii mit. winter anionj; the Innuits, was recommended by the mate of the sliii,. and (U'(.lared liimsell" ready to go on the proposed jonrney, two or tlirtc years inhmd, he was ac(!epted altt'r i)elng fully told the (hirkest m(|,. of the experience ho might he (iulhtd to puss through. On the J'.ttli the tender ''Helen F." sailed with the l)arty (»f four for Wager llivci. and the next day the captain landed at " Whale Point," whicli \\f h,.. lieved on the river; by Hall's observations afterwards it proved Im \u- forty miles south of the point of the captain's reckoning. This wms a second and yet more grievous disappointment, and it caused the loss oi a whole yar to the objects in view; for, had the landing l)een . The position of this "first encampment" was lat. 04° 35' N., Ion. S7 83 W. M iiM' A single white man as leader, with a compi-.nion who soon provcil useless as an assistant, a desolate region, and winter almost at hand! But here was a man of brave heart .and of experience. Up the shallow Welcome of Sir Thomas Rowe the little craft . )W coasted, piloted Iiv the Eskimo, Ebierbing (Joe), on whom the party were for a long season to be dependent for their steersman as well as hunter. Hall wrote in ('ha[)ol that American whalers who had opened up the fishing within the currents and eddies ' Mii^l I ' f 01 o AMEIIICAN EXI'LOIIATIOXS TX THE ICE ZOXES. necessit}'. On the 18th Tlairs journal says: "It lias been nioviiif^^-dnv with us, and an interesting picture might have been seen, — the Inn nits and tlie two Kod-lu-nas, with packs on our backs, tramping ahmcr towards our destined new home. Ohl Motlior Ook-bar-loo had for her Hh ^ ^vS^^5>i>"''~''■^"^'^^'^^^/^s^v i ■; i 1 strong as to defy the pow- er of the fiercest Arctic gales. Two months aftei- ward he wrote : " I ex- changed ten' for snow- house, and have been all the time as comfortable as I ever have been in my life. You would be quite interested in taking a walk through my winter quarters; one main igloo for myself and Eskimo friends, and three others, all joined to the main, for storehouses. A low, crooked passage-way of fifty feet in length leads into our dwelling." From this date until near the first day of the year following, his suji- plies of food and his visits and intercourse with the natives continued to be without serious discomfort. His experience, however, even of this first season began to correct some of the impressions of the quali- ties of the p]skimos, on whom, in his first volume, he frequently be- stows the epithets "noble and generous," "simple and freehearted." In common with all Arctic voyagers lie could not, indeed, have faile(l to be offended at the outset by the constant witness of their un- cleanly habits, and had written in his notes, two years before, tliat GUOUNn-PLAN OF HALL'S FIHST KU.OO. UNCLEANLY HABITS 215 win II II white man for the tirst time enters a tupik, lie is nauseated with ('verything lie sees and smells — even disgusted with tiie looks of the iiiitives. He would see a company of what you would call a dirty set 111 human beings, mixed up among masses of nasty, uneatable llcsli. skins, blood, and bones, scattered all around; and, hanging over ii loiii;'. low flame, the Oo-koo-sin (stone-kettle) black with soot and oii, (ii!;;! with black meat, swimming in a smoking Huid, as if made by hdiliii;'" down the dirty scrapings of the butcher's stall, while the disluis ,iut III' which the soup is taken would turn his stomach, especially wiitii he saw the dogs wash them out with their tongues before he used iliciii. He had added to this that there was no alternative but to sub- mit to tlieir customs and be one of them. On this second voyage his tirst i>atient was one from whose face, by perb.'asion, he sponged off, with soap and water, a thick coat of primitive soil.- His companionship at the feasts was now not more satisfactory, as rt'giuds these native habits. At a general invitation, October 21), the entertainment was held in two connected igloos. In one, the women sat Turk-fashion on a snow-bench bed, around a huge pile of raw frozen venison and tood-^ioo (reindeer fat) ; in the other, the men crowded close together, the f^now-walls of both echoing with the Babel (if tongues and laughter. To begin the feast, a large piece of venison, hehl between the teeth of one of the parties, wa^i sawed off by the knife close to his nose, stuffing his mouth full ; the main piece was then passed around for the same process by each, and the tood-noo fol- lowed suit. Then from a dish of reindeer heads and necks, boiled in the blood, each guest took a sup till all was gone ; and when the women of the igloo had licked the pot clean, and stuffed the children to suffocation, each one scraped the grease from his face into his moutii, and licked his fingers. A self-adaptation to such habits, prolonged, too, through the period of the five years, seems explicable ordy in con- nection with Hall's own statement, that to keep his health and acccm- [ilisli anything, he must live like this people. He exchanged frequent visits, and soon ate, drank, and slept as did the natives, and he wrote that the stronger the venison, even if putrid, the better lie rel- ished it. The immense quantity of food swallowed by the Iimuit at 11^ ! r I : pr/:\ '«Tl I i 216 A]ME1UCAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. the feasts, which usually fuUow their privations of the season, were nu matters of surprise. Like all rude tribes, they were ijrovident duiintr the open season, but in a time of enjoyment excessively and thought- lessly wasteful. In the month of September, Hall thought they Imd several hundred reindeer cached within a circle of twenty miles in diameter, but before December closed scarcity had begun to set in. More than one occasion was found for the superstitious business of An-koo-ting. On one of these the An-ge-ko (Artooa) entered tlie crowded igloo with three men and an old woman, asking immediately thut OAMK OF VXV AND HALL. (Leuriied probably from tbc Whaltrs.) — Siiiilbsonian Institution. the light at the table where Hall was seated to take notes, should be put out; the wick of the lamp was then thumbed down, giving just light enough to make the scene gloomy and cold. Then taking off liis boots and standing on the bed-place, he made a speech of about ton minutes, his hoarse voice at times shaking the dome, and contrasting strongly' with the musical voice of the women and with Joe's crying out from time to time, atee, atee, good, good, g(» on. Among the antics he dis- played, he grappled with two of the strongest Innuits, throwing them with seemingly supernatural strength. The clmnt was low and monot- onous, while the grim, swarthy faces of the audience, sjjectrally illumi- nated by litful beams of the lamp, and their dark bodies swaying awk- INNUIT AlklUSEMENTS. 217 wan 11 V to and fro and keeping time with the barbarous music, made up ;i uihl and unearthly scene. Not one of the natives were free from the iiilluonce of the rite, Joe and Hannah not excejjted. Tiie tribe showed tlie iiiitnral love of amusement, — checkers, dominoes, and the cup and ball lu'ing their favorite games. A serio-comic diversion was their performance on the Kej'-low-tik, the ( 11)1 V musical instrument found among them. The drum is made of a iiicci' of deerskin stretched over a hoop made of wood or bone from tlic I'm of a whale, by the use of a strong braided cord of sinew passed ariiiiiid a groove on the outside. The instrument weighs about four p,iiiii(ls. The Ken-toon or wood- en drumstick is ten inches long, and three in diameter. •• When the Key-low-tik is played the performer holds the drum handle in the left hand, and strikes the edge of the rim o])posite to that over which the skin is stretched. He holds the drum in ditt'erout positions, but k('C]is it in a constant fan-like motion by his hand and by the blows of the Ken-toon^ struck alter- nately on the opposite sides of the edge. Skilfully keeping the drum vibrating on the handle, he accompanies this with grotesque motions (if the body, and at intervals with n song, while the women keep up their cwn Innuit songs, one after another, through the whole per- formance. At the first exhibition which Hall witnessed some twenty-five men, Avomen, and children — all who could leave home — assembled to see the skill of the performers who would try the newly-finished instrument. As usual the women sat on the platform, Turk fashion ; the men, be- himl them, with extended legs. The women were gayly dressed. They wore on each side the face an enormous pig-tail, nnide by wrapping tlieii' hair on a small wooden roller a foot in length, strips of reindeer fur l)eing wrapped with the hair. These were black and white for KEY-LOW-TIK AND KEN-TOOX. "':: i» !^ ! ! y 1 • :^ f i ; . li i i i ■ ' . !! ■. 1 t ' a ■ ' 1 .J. 1 ■ ! « 5 . 218 AMKIUCAX KXl'UUtATlONS IN THE ICK ZONKS. tliose who had sons, and bhick only for those wlio liad none. Sliinii ._r ornaments Avere worn on the head, and on tlie breast they had Masdnii'. like aprons, tlie groundwork of wliieh was of a flaming red eolor, oi na- niented with glass heads of many colors. The women thus presenic 1 a pleasing contrast with the dark visages of the men in the backgroiiinl ; while their naked infants were playing here and there in a mother's la]» or peering out fro'ni their nestling-place in the hood. Ook-bar-loo, Jr., was the first performer. This young man was a son of Ever-at, named in Parry's narrative of his second voyage as helping to draw one of liis charts. When he tired, the women struck up a song for the second performer; then stripping off their jackets to be naked from their loins up, the men alternately dealt each other's iirms such fearful blows that Hall thought their very bones must be broken. and seemed to feel his own shoulders ache. The one who had played the Key-loiv-tlk the longer, now struck his blows without mittens, and Ook-bar-loo ere long gave signs of surrender. The times varied fidm ten U) thirteen minutes each. Ar-too-a, Ar-mou, and Ou-e-la followed as performers at short intervals. one of them making as high as one hundred and sixty strokes in a miiime with the Ken-toon ; when Nu-ker-zhoo, getting his hand under the Key- low-tik, and dealing rapid blows first on one edge and then on the other, by this jugglery kept it vibrating in the air, and brought out from it the same sounds as when played in the usual way. Hall, being then called out by the house, tried his hand, but in less than three minutes tlie Key-low-tik was on the floor, his arm and wrist aching from the weight, Jind the whole igloo convidsed with laughter. Joe was called for, Imt was too weak from recent sickness to perform. Before this part of tlie exhibition closed, the performers showed up the differences in playinj^ as practised by the neighboring tribes. The meeting now changed its character. Ook-bar-loo, when he re- sumed playing, instantly extinguished the lights, leaving only the dim moon to creej) in through the fresh-water ice window of the igloo. He then commenced his talk with the spirits, accompanied by clajipingcf ha.rds, jumping up and down, sidewa_;S and forward, and then backini^ out from the igloo and retunung. Dining all this an-koo-ting one and HALL AN-KOO-TED. 210 aiinilni' of the audience kept rei)catin(:j "words wliicli seemed not un- like iliiise of a penitent giving in his experience at a revival meeting." Tlic iiitrv into new igloos in November was celebrated by like per- il, iiniiiccs. The An-ge-ko made use of three walrus s]»ears, one of \vlii( li lie thrust into the wall of the snow-house, and then having a PLAYING THE KEY-LOW-llK. wrestling match with four men on the outside, and coming again into ilic central igloo, he commaiuled the lamps to be relit, and showed the iieiiiis of his spear covered with blood. This he licked off and then Ikstiiii his incantations, addressing first, with head erect, the great i'dwer above, and then with his head on the lloor the spirit below. Ill a time of sickness, in which Hall suffered from the breaking out of hnils. he had been prevailed on to be himself an-kno-ted., and had con- ^dwW^. to obey the An-ge-ko's order that he should never again wear ■ll? ■iiil in i ,. ■j ■ i 220 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. certain garments, but should burn them. So far as h consenting to like seemingly harmless decrees his notes show that he subjected himself to their wishes. When he had exi)ressed a desire for a change of food from walrus-meat, he received the solid frozen head and neck of a reindeer ; but as to put this on the floor, or among the other kinds of meat on thu platform would have prevented the catching of another walrus throiioh- out the year, or, perhaps, of taking any more, he had to cut this uj), watching closely that every chip flew westward and not one on the floor, and he then ate it soaked in rancid and stinking seal-oil, Innuit customs I ' >\l ! SKK-KOONS. Skin-scrapcrs, half size, deposited at the Smithsonian. forbidding the use of any other. The neck only could be used, not the head until after the walrus season ; still he said that he had gotten so far along in Innuit taste as to like this very much ; but a very short time after, on receiving seasonable supplies from the whaliiiLf shiji, he wrote : " What a glorious supper we had to-night. A chaiifjc now and then in his food is what a white man likes. Even an Inmiit loves civilization food." A more pleasing experience was that of observing the Innuit prc]iar- ation of the reindeer skins for dresses and bed-coverings; in this the women assisted the men. The processes were, first to scrape the skin by an instrument called sek-koon, a rough tool about six inches long including the handle, made of a peculiar kind of whet or oil stone, ■i. A WALHUS-UUNT. 221 or else of a musk-ox or reindeer boue, or of sheet-iron. The second stt'[i is to dry the skins thoroughly ; the third to scrape again with s(k-k(t(ins, taking off' every bit of the flesh ; the fourth to wet the flesh si(l(; and wrap it up for thirty minutes, and tlien again scrape with the sek-k(»on ; which hist operation is followed by chewing the skin all over, ami iigain scra{)ing and cross-scraping witli the instrument. These lii!)(iii<»us processes Hall describes as resulting "in the breaking of the ykiii. making the stiff' hide soft-linished like the chamois-skin." The whole work is often completed witiiin an hour. The following account of a walrus-hunt is one of several like notices, largely condensed from the journals : — At eight in the morning Hall left his igloo, leading by a long tr.?,ce- liiio one of the large dogs which were to be employed in dragging the v/alrus home ; several other dogs were led by the Innuits, but by far the larger number were allowed to run loose, preceding or following the hunters. The distance to the walrus-grounds had been for some time constantly increasing as the land-floe widened, and the aninuils, accordingly, shifted their feeding-grounds to the new ice or to the iissures near its edge. Having crossed the half-mile belt of very rough ice near the coast, and advanced about six miles, Hall came to this edge. A breeze from the north was drawing the floe to the southward at the speed of a quick walk, and as it j^ressed heavily on the edge of the fixed ice, the noise was so terrible that he was at times forced to draw himself back several paces from the point to which he had ventured. For scores of miles to the north and south, the drifting floe was grind- ing its uneven face against the firm but jagged front on which he stood. .Mounting a high ridge, he saw, as far as the eye could reach seaward and up and down the Welcome, a boundless field slowly moving on- ward toward the south, but ciushing to atoms miles and miles of mass- ive ice ; now rearing up mountains on mountains, now ploughing up acres into high ridges. Ou-e-la, who had joined him, was unable to reach a large walrus, which rose in a small water space five fathoms off, for the "s([ueezed, rolling, craunching mass " was working between the floes. He gave a qui(.'k signal to those on the drifting floe, and Ar-mou and Ar-too-a ran t: I -Ml' m ^ 1 .'I 1^'! U i! I I 222 AMKIIICAN KXI'LOKATIONS IX 'VUV. UK ZONKS. miiidly towanl tlic wulnis; hut just as Ar-iiidii liad liis liai'[)<»(iii i lisi.l, till! animal (lisa|»ji('ariMl iji the water. Hall and Oii-u-hi tliun ilii.ttcil tlicir slcjis tiiwai'd tin; luosc ]iacls wjiicli tiu; (ttlicrs had alicadv l;,iiiiii|. to rrach wliifh ihi; shai'|) vya <»!' tliu I'lnnii (piickly discjoNcii'd tin' i.iilv 1' ihl (ossihlc d'ossinuf. A (]ni(!k run, a lew Hti'[)S ovi'i' slnd^c and jxtwilrii (| i(;(>, a hsij) IVoni this tnndtlintr l)l()(-k to tliat one, and a linal leap lo the drivini,^ lioc, luuunht the two satVly ovt-r. Walruses could now hf soon in eveiy direction; sonu^ hultiniLj up i<'i! iVannients iVoin the soljil II lain; some with their lieads thiouuh tlu; l)Utted holes; soin e Willi ;i largo j»art ol' the hody ahove the ice. Thu hunters were l)usily al work. In one direction two Innuits weic un(U'r full run for tlu; same hlnwiiii^r walrus, the dogs running around them. All at once these liiiiiicrs stoj){»ed, lor the animal had taken the ahirm a.id gone <(own. In an- othiiv direction an excited grouj) were seen, one throwing the l.tinc, another h(tlding on a line, one jumping this way and another lliai, for a walrus a|)i)eared to he a secured prize. With some ditilieulty I hill gained tliis s|)ot, hut found only one Innuit remaining, while the icd- ned ice and the iiole showed a sevei'(! coiilliet. Shoo-slie-ark-iinnk had harj)oniicd a very large walrus, and he and l^hierhing (.lot ) had hmced it until it was almost (h^ad. The harpoon, however, sliji])e(| and the animal escajjed, Joe losing his lance-head. out A n extensiv(! Hoe o .f tl wa Iru sing lee was uow^ seen sinKiinii ov(!r tlu! ice on which they stood, and advancing from the north at tlu' speed of a moderate walk; its tliickness was two inches, the same as that on which they stood. They were two miles from the land-lliu'. upon ice which ])ont like leather at every step, often yielding two or iree mclies wi thout a fracture, and it would not do to remain al rest on such ice. They were compelled to he eonstantl}' in motioi situation demanded. 1 as i he ilall lasteiied to a stM-ond urouooi Innuits, who were as f Ii l)iisil V (U'cll- j)ied as the liist. and in a few moments found himself pulling away wiili others on a line which was last to a large walrus. After a lew pulls. c \\:i^ the half-killed animal came iij) in a flouncing, tumhling way. 11 furiously mad. for he had not only heen harpooned hut lanced and linni'd again and again, so that at every blow, quarts of thick dark Wood wciu IIAM.S SKillT NVAMMS. 'im II ii|>, sciitttM'in«4; itself iihrnit, |);iiiitiii;4 tin- icf, the «ln<^rs, aiid tli \ \\i til ii ciiiusoii liiu;. Liirii^(M)iis liciirts, liiiiilly (toiHiucrtMl. As ol'tcii us In- cuiiic ii|i t,, IddW, 111! was iiH'l hy tlic Uiuv.o of the Imipooiicr, who thrust i( i|iih !< uimI (U'fp into (he heart anil rhunud away until thu walrus wiilnli, u by ilivin^' iimlur the ii;i! anil flippcring away to thr h-n^Mh of thr Im,.. Tiicn, at (Mich now appearunco, ho wouUl fasti-n his long ivor\ insk (one hail hoon hvokon olV, probably in sojuo liglit) upon thi' cilgc i.f i||,. ice, anil turning his eyes arounil would spenil his fury on the lirsi ol his enemies who approached. lie then again llipi)ereil back, and, as ilii> uplifted lance was poisi-d, moved vinlmilv forward and upward, throwing lurwaid his head with a circling sweep, as il to drive his tusk to the very heart ol his assailant. " What a terrible blow a walrus can (hal witb his hi'ad and tusks,' When he raiiu^ up to breathe, which he did several liiiics through dil'fercnt holes, resting with his tusk hooked on to the edge of the ice, at every breathing he expelled through liis white-walled uu)uth u frightful streniii of hot life-blood, and as the hungry (hii;s rushed up fearlessly to the very fountain whence the luscious, savory gore issued, the dying walrus quickly raised his head and struck it forward with trenieiit Williaiiii & Ilavrn, New Lundoii. m:w vKAi; s i>,\v •J 2.') 'I'liis (li)iic. ciicli liiimil s|ii'aii^' to llif task dl' culling optMi llic cai- (•ii» liDiii liciid to tail, that it iiii^'lit t-n\('i' as lai'^c an aiiui as |Missi)>U> nil llir i*'*'; yi't' tllc IlKiliicllt tlity t'dllllliclicrd In liaill U|), tilt' i(;(' Ix'^'iUI In 111 ml, and by tin- time tlu' Wiiliiis was (lisciiihfivvcllrd, tlir water tov- ii six iiiclii's , inlo liner cir |i;iii^. w illi«nit. lM!in;4' skinned, and while this enttiiii;' was Muino' (m, th«' (Id- > jrted J ike so many devils, and il was ini|iossil)le, even w it h a speai'. Ilieni awav li'oni the lildoii and llesli. Th le liaekhone. I lie liirhl; iiiiil ;i small |)ol"tioii oi" the entrails oidy wer(( thmwn away. The edycs ,i|' ihe ltin<;it ndinal parts wfic then placed toj^ether l»y lines, l, was a day of^ah! and drift; the day following;- Hall (vichralcd as New Year's Day. Fie lioisted the lla^^ on liis own i,t;Ioo. :iiiil set a table for bis luitive guests, twenty-five feet in lenjiftb ext(;nd- iii^ into the liuts of On-lc-a, Ar-nioii, and Nu-ker-zboo. Il was made of M:i-(liests, and its seats were snow-blocks (tiishioned witb deerskins, lie treated to vegetable and pemmican-soiip, and sea-bread with coffee, isinglass jelly, and raisins for dessert ; ami bis twentv-one frown persons, when rising from tiie table, i)Ut Ibeir hands over the places Ml :l i m I) i I At} t ;i 226 AMElllCAN EXPLfHIATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. where they had stowe^l the good things and cried out "Good, very good I " Giving notice through Joe that he had a speech to make, he eiideavored to impress them with his confidence that he expected lliem t(; go with him next spring to Neit-clii-lle. Too-koo-litoo told him tlmt they were all much pleased. But within a few days he had reason to apprehend that his (U)nfi. dence rested on a frail basis, for he learned that the larger number of NEW YEAR'S DAY IGLOO. I, entrance ; II, central igloo ; B, bed platform; F, floor; Ii, lamp. this people were expecting to visit again the whalers in the bay, and remain there too long to move forward seasonabiy with him in the spring. His journal says, " Innuits are a strange peo})le to deal with ; a white man to get along with them must have the patience of a ,)vh." He must go down himself with a small party only to the ships. Well supplied with venison and walrus-meat and blubber and rein- deer furs for traffic, his party of seventeen left their igloos on throe sledges, drawn by twenty-two dogs, the tliermometer registering' 72° below freezing point. Following mostly the southward track nf a IGLOO UriLDlNO OX A .lOUUNKY. 227 fniiiicr visiting party, they spent their first night in one of its old ijrlods, seventeen miles from Noo-wook, finding it necessary first to elfiir itut the snow-drifts and build two smaller snow-huts. The work upon these is thus described: "While one of Ou-e-la's ^iv.s shovelled out the snow-drift from the main hut, the other in- eicasi^il the thickness of its walls by banking up more snow on the ,,utsiil<^. Hall's offered assistance to the women in this work of using GROUND-PLAN OP IGLOO BUILT ON A JOURNEY. the por-kin (snow-shovel) was refused by the husband. The drift l)eiiif; thrown out of the way, Ou-e-la then entered and made a bed platlnrin on each side of tlie igloo, dividing two by a trench a foot in (k'ptli. riic women and children having then crowded in, made up the beds liy si^cading over the ])latf()rms their furred deerskins, and lit the three liie-lamps to melt snow for the thirsty- The men on entering 'arefully beat their jackets ariu korflln (outside breeches), witli their (irrcir-fars, to prevent th^^ warmth of the igloo during the night from in ifflR llilili ■ III 11 -: i 11 ii ; p H H ; if II 11 Ii ■ 1 i;lillHEI § J ■ '■ r '1 1 1 ' 1 H ■l ' lli-l ii- t ! j ■ K • 3 »r ; M b II i M OO T2H VMI'.IJU'AN KXI'I.OI! ATIONS IN rill'; UK '/nNi;s. inciting llic snow ii|iiMi llifiii: I'nr il' it iii;;iiii Ww/v ti|iiiii lliciii ii \v,,ii|,| mukc (he ',;;u incuts li(';i\\ iis well iis co I.I. Iiis I lioiniioh I. :ili: r«<(|iiir'. (I ;'i lull liiili' liiM'i'. riic l.'iii|M'i';ihir(> williiii llic liiii, imhIi inlluciicr ol' llic Iiiiii|is mikI of llic crow ij. (|iii('KI\ rose tVoni II Wils ;ic;iiii lowered l»\ the \«'iiisoii in tlie (reiieli, wliieli, when | l>rtMi!;lit in. smoked ;is if on tire. To |ire\eiit the loni;iie iind li|.. ii,,,,, IxMiie iVo/eii 111 the lirst l;isle i^\' the nieut.it w iis held, I'or ; !• Ilu llsl inents in inillened liiinds. :inil luciithed niion. I he eliildi en s sliMi w llh 1 IliMli. >li| Mwliih' in their | >;irenls nio iiths. .\l it r.M. tl e w hoi Ml\ hloih liliddled looethcM' Tor (he ni^lil, >inu\i< e(nii|ielled to sit ii|trij;li( I he hMijv iionis (»r sh-ep. S(>\eii(eeii lireMl hers were sejiled up, wilh Avvy snow l»loel\. in i! Inn Inil Ml leel r- ( M ISl I I' Ml liiiineter ! ( )n op| ol the lioueh, nine wen* on the philloini iind eii;ht on the otiiei . . \(i\ one. Inniiil t';ishi(ni. haviiiu' the he;id towai'd the (reneli. In ll e niMi ll ing\ l»etW(>en the hours o( three and lour, the men wa!\«'d. ale a ipi;iuiii\ o( deiM'-meal. siiudved. and aeain went to sh'ep. .\l \\\i\ the wlii'li pjU'tv \\(M(> amused to Iind that the laiup-suioke liati crxcieci iluiu \\ itli soot, llall \\akt'(| with '* a severe headache tVoiii llie i-\i carlxuiu' acid Lias. c'lMUMaled l>v the Ihrcc lire-li''lils and se'.cnhrii mill's. Ill ]>oii]^l(\" .\t tlu> chisc ol' a sec.'iiti dav's journeN of twenty-six th(^ ieloo iu^\t huilt.slaUs ol" I'ro/tM! walrus-hide were liuiiu' on ^pr.n- oriiss\\is(> near th(> to'pol'ihe hut. and I'roiu these slahs. part iall\ In lh(^ tii'(^-hiiups. the (htes were \\h\. On llic cNcninn' of the six a v-clcimiiiiL:- signal iVoin the mast ol' llu> " Moiilicello " caught tliriu .\ month was now spiMit w illing'ly amono' llu> olViCiM's and crews ni tliiswhahM' and tliost^ of four others anchored near. The iiatixcs iclisli I IlilWi'il 111 il,i\. lU'lS lllllj- ino: their stay viM th(^ more, left llall luit half his nmnher of he fin' his velum ti> N"iH>-wook : lie 1. id failiMl to l^iM the iu-tmiist> of a tonni (or his spviuo- journey, ami on his return trij) he was liiuilid liy iiis uati\e liieiid tlici;uide ami sled-owiier, to the uiipalalablc feet! nl ('(•i,ii AMI inN(!i;i{. ili(> wiilnis iiidr. TIic sMinc mil i vc, SlKiu-slic-iiik-iinnk, iilsu slidwcd si^iis ,,|' iitsiiHcro rsii;isiniiM In liis cMiiiiniiiiniiM in |i,;i\,. \\\r wliito Hiiiii, iiiid in liis ii|i|iin|ii iiil in^ l Vfiy snicMis. Scid liinils were liiirlv .liil. ;ind \\\v \v;inl id' Idnliln-.' I'nr li^lil iind lien! i^iivr ^irjil 'I'lir inMiMMl 111 M;m'l; II s;ivs: "liow cliccrlcss is our ;I1H MSIilir ■; ii;ii I'lW I'd down lo ii siMi|ili' \vi(l\-|ioiii|, iind niiikcs tlic <;looiii iiioir lliiin tolal diirkiirs-;. I/oiim- Mmj cnsl-dou n Intrs iirc now riiinllv lisin.il ,,.('11, lli.il W('iir\' monllis IVoni I ic nine nl Ills lir>.| hiiidiiiL;. Iliili loiiiid liinisrH' ('nciiiiiix'd on Ijii' Wnorr Uivcr, , ■• wliii li lie li;nl lio|M'd III 1)1' srI iisliorc IVoni tlir wliiiliTs. Tlic liisl (i.i\s 111 Apiil iiiitl jiiil his |i;iriy inlo Inils. mi llic ic" oi Ihc livrr in l,il. (l.'» I'.*'. 'I'llt' lclll|H'r;il llic \\;is slill ;is low iiS 111" Iit'loW IVcc/.illJf |nUllt. !>iii s,';diii^' now l»rL;;iii lo Iti- siirri'ssriil. N ii-kcr-ziioo willi one ^irnkc li;ir|iooiird ;i iiiotlicf ;iiid licr |in|i; lisc iiioit sciils wcir tlic next jiri/f ; ,iiid ll;iM, iiiiiid llic ron^Tiil iiliit ions (d' llic unlives. iii;idc liis <<\\\\ lirsl .'.iiiliiic. lie liiid Iciiriicd sonic id" llic ininiil si r;ilii'_;ciiis. iiimI wilii llirir lii'lp |iiil llicni in |>kiy. (ioiii^- mil willi \iidNS IN TIIK ICK ZONKS. Ill' \\llN- !'■ hill seal liiid Itt'cM (Iicrc; (li'iiwin;^- out (lie in«| iind snirlliiii;' it. |kM(mI, *'/(■/»/(/" (sliiil\-l)ull scul). lU'lmiiiiin' llir rod l(» (lie siin lidlr, lie ciiicrullv sciiipcd the siinw I'ntiii iirniiiid llic rnd. sn ;is i, leave only alxuil six inelies Mhove (lie seid-liiilc. and llieii di'cw .mii i!,, rod, and |>lared the end nj" tlie w (i(((l-|tarl iA' his ",i-iiiir *\\\i'<\\\ n\ the ittd-hiile. Ilnjdini;- this |tei|iendieidaily with tnic hand, he ii-ii| i other in paeiun!;' snow around it till he had retnined the ten iniln-- {■]■ snow ovei' the seal-h< '!'• Wlllrli 111' had sei'a|ie(| away. Tin i I III)- leai-handle was lil'ted in I UVIll- l\, \\liieli lel't an i lirll-M|||;||, hole ; wliicii was to he lii> nuii. an(i finite lor Ins liar|i(Mi; st liUiiij;' tiie seal as simii ,; I III siio nid hear it. lie tliei I I'illl llic little rod down throii^li iln' doiiic oi" t he seal's liollse { ni. ,l^ It niav lie eailiM I, '/'//' '", 111] 11 |v reallv a siiiail snow-liiil ), tei'inint> t he !ihi\r- KHIKUlUNci ,101;) UOINli Ol I' SllAL-lUMi: iiieiiis: t o Kee Ins led w.iriii and elose to^'etluM'. he drew on a short Iiai;' of reindeer skin. Iiir in^iiir, and tied Ins le^'s (ot;'et liei', and wrappeil Ins iroek-tail elose aroiiinl jnn His t)()-)i(ir. \vitli liarpoon and line, wort' placed on two jieos a llllc advanee. so that whon beiidini;' loiwai'd lie eonid touch his speai. Willi these (iiiiet prejiarations he bade Hall u'ood-ni^ht. sayinn" tjiat hy lii- hav- ino- the ./-//"o (lie seal would think no one was left Itehind. His pivniii- tioiis were not useless, for he had failed in a previous wateh just wlu'ii .\ri'i;nA«ll OK HCMMKi: ■l:\\ ;,| I III shikr liis |iri/,r, the wiiiy .sciil being iViglitciKMl oil 1»\ the lull I'l' :i iiiillcii IVoiii Ills liclr. ()i) j''J»i('rl»iiig's wiiliji, lie liiid ciil duwii into tlic snow to siilisl'y hiiiiM'H ))V irpciilcd snicliings tliiit llic scjil liiiij itccn t licrr, :imiI tlicn lie M lajicii iiwiiy llir (Milsiilr snow down to tlic lliin icv rrust, tlic hcuTs Idciii hiiiu-liolc. Making tlifu ;i cfnlrid downward cnl, and i'(!nioviiig iVdiii ii a siililarv liaii' IVoin liis ontcr IVocIs, lest IIk; seal slioidd "■Hnicli liiiii (jiiick,"' lio set u|i over I lie liolc a snow-Mock, ol" wliicli ultont I lirci! iiicliis was above tlic snow, for a mark for liis liai|)ooii, and passed till' walcli ol' ii whole nigiit,- not an niiiisiial length of wailing. I'oi' at (iiiKS lie had passefl IVoni Iwenly-rotir to roity-eight hours on siudi weary work. Halls watch was, jia|i|iily for him, thai- '-{>.) AMKKICAN KXl'L()KATIO>;S IN THE ICE ZONES. luilf-siiow-lioiises, luid become uiiteiuintable In llie siiow-drippinns, a,,,! the reiiiiiiiis, when broken ilown, presented a strong- fontrasL n, tin beantilul arelied and sulid domes spoken ol' b_v Hall in the i)irvi(,ii.> iiulunm.* '11 le su mniev ;.i;;!iths <>i" I8i)5 were spiMit by the natives ii > seciiiin the game lor their s d)sistenee (hiring the coining winter, the sue eessfnl hnnts ol" Jidy alone footing np twelve seals, nine /i-,/,„./,s thirt y-s(\('n deer, a bear, and some diieks. ('om[)elled to await l'\C|| through another winter his chainres of moving westward toward Kino William Land, Hall's ehief oecnpation was limited to sneh obsciMi- tions for the coast-lines of the Hay as his instruments permitted liim ti) make. lie; had further opportunities of witiusssing the mitivc wavs of making use ol" the seal, the walrus, and the deer for food, and in the manufacture of useful things. For making lines from the skin of the (i',/{-i/i)n/r I'oi- uses in the hunt, the Innuits cut the skin into l()ii(4' strij)s. which they sti'ctclied between the rocks by a block and tackle which lliey obtained fmni the whalers: these strips, made soft ami pliable by nd)bing and chewing, were verv' strong' for sled ii'e trac- ings ami laslunL;s and lor seeming a walrus. '/)( To sa\(' the blubber of the seals for de[)osit for winter use in a 7/'% the natives stored it in seal-skin ifnii/x (bags) made from the skin of the animal, unbroken eNce|)t by a small opening about ihc head. To get the blubber out, the knife was thrust in longitu.!ii to separate it from t he skin, the fore-llipper was jointed, and tli then Worked out bv the hole made at the head. lallv, e seal icr When making the deposits of the reindeer, the custom is to pi upon and around *he carcass the hea(k legs. shoiildiTS and saddle, c ering the whole with a heavy ])ile of stones. When this is done, as is (IV- ii: (aiiliiin [.yon. in liis .loiinial of I'.iii-y's Scfond ^'o\•a^l'. tsiil- ;iivs of ;i lik SCiMHV I liail several t line in my I'amhles tliroimli the world, seen huts wli imagined eoidd not \w p(|nalled in wi'eteliedness of a])pearance: hut I was yet to hiun that of all miserahlft places on earth, a snow village, feeently disserted, is tiie inosi U'loomv. 'i'iie roofs nndted into icicles and coated with smoke; arches hrokcn .iml fallini: from decay: tlio snow scats, floors, and partitions covered with every kind ni lihli and ruhhish — bones, liroken utensils, and scraps of skins — form allouoth(M' the aie^l deph)rah]e picture, while the uema'al air of misery is auiiniented tenfold by the stmiii,' i^laro of liuht which shoots tlirouL;h a hole once occupied hy a window. "' A WHALE CAU(JMT. .)•>•> Mill! ,1. in the hiliT pari of tlu' season, tlic whole mass sonii beconi'-s .so 1 with ice, that it can lie o})ene(l only with oreat force, the natives usni'4 lo r this |)ur|)ose heavy wed^e-shaped atones. 'riie first opportunity now ol'I'ered itself for the successful issue of one (if the important elements in the oi'ig'inal plan jiresented to tho liitiiils of the exjiedition in New Vork in \^&1 — the capture of CAl'Tri;lN(i A WUALK \\ ii lies, wliicii Would repay in jiart the advances made for the outlit. M'icr a nund)er of cruises in the hoats witlutut heini;' ahlc to conic i|i;iii' within strikiufj; distance. Au^'iist -W. Hall was couo-vatnlalcd hy ;i!l liis Innuit friends for the success of tho day. With his party of ii!cu and hoys he left the tupiks at four A.M. to liuid a whale which had lufii for some time previous hlowini;' around. His hoats, the "'Sylvia" ami the " I^ady Franklin." sjfave swift chase to the westward, hut after a:i imur's cruise, during' which ihe whale made several rising's, they Were uuahle to t>,"et close eiiou^n'h. altlioUi^h ihey came almost upon it i.H m ! If fit ft' 'J;>4 AMi-l!I('AN KXI'LOKATIONS IN TIIF, HK /(»M;s. \\\wi\ rowint;' iVoiii an (»|i|Mtsite diivi'lion iirouiid an islet. A scimhi] wliiik' was, liowovor, almost iimiicdiatt'lv scni liall" a mile to the m.ii|||. west, wluMi tlu! sails were (jiiii'Uly set, and [)ad(lli's and oars vig.n.Mi^U plied l»_v tlir crews of both boats, "each of wliicli ran down tlie Ir- di a \', the whale at its joininj;' point." ()u-e-la, IVom the how ol ili,. Ladv Franklin," which reai'hed tl Svlvia,"" threw a w hal ie ji'oal a few seconds het'oii del es iiarpooii, to winch was attaciicd a hiir n|' twenty fathoms, having at it > end two drngs (floats). One of il was (he forward part of an (Kik-i/nnk skin, the covering of the head icsc .1111 flippers being as i-iil ire as w hen n[)on the living animal, with the e\i rp- ii<»n cf the transverse scam ; the other was the entire skin of a urli- /'. Moth were lilleil with air, ccunpressc I by the stont lungs of im /ni 1 n:.u\l '! ill ir doubU' objcc't w as to indicate wheit' the whale wa- :mii| to tire It do.vii. w lien ()u->'-la's irw. it received a harpoon fiom lew iiiil ^*'udit to his lavoiiii- 4l('(M'-])ass. wlicrc lie liad l)ccn acciislonicd to watdi l>chind astom'\\;il|. lie t'lidcavoicd willi Joe to ciirlic lixc that thc\ Imd killed the day pre- vious, and within tin.' weary hours ol' jiiliiiL; ii|i oNcr thciii rork and >toni' was oMTtakcn i\ a tierce storm oi sliar|i, eultini;. oliiidi snow on the winiis (d' the <'ale. Ill' (•n(Ui!.'h. he said, to make on (' e\- eia ini. '• None hut devils should doomed to siicli a |iiiiiislnneiii.'' I'aiteiiiig the hut on their retiiin each seemed to the other and to 'l"oo-koo-litoo a pillar of sik'W, until i'or a loii^' time they hml ]ioiinded and threshed their natixe dresses. ( )n another \isit he had the mistorluiie to liiid tliat a de- |iosil made six i'eet ahoxc the ri l\ IT leve had 'heeii swcjit hy a six-dav: ^ale and stiu'iii. The main su| T'y food must, lioweNcr. be iii'ii lloW- 'I'ou-Koo-l.irod illANNAUi th(>se deposits. ,\t time ever.his store-liouse was well (illed, and a season u\' i'eastinn' ensued: and as ol't?n. tliroiu'li a failure in was i-eeoxciinn' the deposits, or tlirou^'h the eajii'lee (d' tlie Iniiuits, hi' jilaeed on shoi't rations. His .loiirnal (d' January lil tells the following " I arise usually between seven and ei'4'lit in the morning', and alter si noK- \i\'j; a little, cut lew eliips Iroiii wliatcNcr little choice l)loel< of venison I mav hapiieii to have, and eat llie same raw and hard frozen. As eat- ing- \enisoii alone is dry work unless one lias foad-non, T eat seal bluh- l)ei-. which is idd. id' strong color, and »d" strong old checse-tasto. Al)out l"ii| l.i.-l HALLS 1(MH>. :l:;7 Iniir ciiiift s (if vciiisdii iiiid iiiic (Hiiicc ot' l)liiltl)('i' iiiiikc my lut'iik- (■;isi. Iliul 1 i.liiiiHlaiicc of tlic t'liriiicr. 1 slitnild cat nearer Inui- ,„,iiii(ls lliaii I'l'iir iiiiiK'c.s, i'(»i' it must he ii'iiu'iultcifd that it takes Alt-Too-A DUuWNKI) IN Ills KIA. a t-Toat NES. viiiiuus pluces about IJepiilse liay, aiid almost uniformly the [)lieuoiiii hmh is seen southerly of tlie point wherever I happened to be. The ^auw was true in my previous voyage (1800-62) — that the aurora was seen soutli. in this (•(•nneetion 1 would state that from all I iiave been ;il)l(. to learn in the many elose observations I have nuide durin;^- theii dis- plays, the aurora is generally not I'ar distant, — oft-times. within u \vw hundred I'eet, — and continues witliin a stone's throw of one's head. Ii an army of men were elose together in line, and extended from lure ii, Voik Factor}', I am sure each man would see the auroral disphi\s all south of him; and yet the most distant disphiys would not exceed icn or iifteen miles, while the most of the auroras would be within a hall' tu three miles of him." [Between the parallel of lifty degrees north and that of sixty-two degrees nortli, aur(»ras during the winter are seen ahnost every ni^hi. They ajipear nigh in the heavens, and as often to the south as to the nortli. In regions further north they are seldom seen exce])t iu i!n' south. — Prof. K JjOOMIs' "Treatise on Meteorology,"" p. 187.] November 7, the rays of an aurora shot horizontally to the ciot- ward, in the direction of tJie magnetic meiidian ; and at 7 P.M. of the loth a third auroral veil covered tiie sky, lasting twenty minutes. Februaiy •!, the passageway of IlalTs igloo was Hooded with the light of an auiora. ( )n going out he saw a long belt extending far casi- southeast, anti'. fai- west-norlhwest, the centre of it a trille south, hut apparently within a ])istol-shot. ''The rays were all vertical and daiu- ing right nieri-ily. 'I'his whole belt was remarkably low th)wn, — that is, apparently not more than tifty or seventy-iive feet from the earth. — and ahtng the base of it, from en'd to end. was a continuous stream nf prismatic lires, which, with the golden rays of light jetting upward ami racing backward and forward — some dancing merrily one way, uliiK' others did the same from the opposite direction — made one of the u\f>[ gorgeous, soul-ins])iring displays I ever witnessed. The Innuits, neaiiv the whole of whom witnessed the grand sight, kept up, as they al\va\ s d(» on such occasions, their charming music — that is. whistling. Tlic display lasted but a few minutes." The following night something nf a like display was witnessed ; a single streak of aurora shot up fn m 1 ^^M, 1 ^8 ^&^ -i^ ^SJafcSi.'l Mi ^B ^^^ >*" •■ -i Z.--'. AUUOUAS. •241 the SI mill, and in a few moments the whole horizoii was alivo with the (lancing fires of the north. On the 19th there was a display of aurora upon wliich the wind had nil apparent effect, althouc^h a gale was blowing. On the 10th of AUKOUA SKETCHKD 15V HALL. Mairli, a wondrous display stretched across the southern horizon from oast-southeast to west-southwest. '^ The eastern half was in the i'orui of an ni( li, with vertical rays, while the western half was convolved in such vast glowing circles that nearly a (juarter of the heavens seemed on liiv. The eastern half consisted of bosses or birch broom-heads, 'i'Mili 1 ' ' "u- ' ]' i ■'5 i 1 ::M| 1 1; 1 i i ■ ''. i ' . \ -li ' ';! 1 : ill ' 1 H " }. 11 ■i ' 1 J i V :'( m ■'MV\ r ''^ '*»!' 1,^ I ' ill - rl ! if' ill A 242 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. SKETCH OF PONDS BAY By tliB Tnnuii Papa Drfcvmln Jan. 1869 THE NOS. ON PAPA'S CHART REFER TO INNUIT NAMES OP LOCAL POINTS KNOWN TO THEM. springing into life and dancing merrily to and fro along the vortex of the highest rays forming the arch. To each broom-head Mas a complete nucleus, well-defined, about which the rays, inclined iibuut CHART DRAWN BY AN ESKIMO. 243 forty-five degrees to the east, played most fantastically. One was quite alone in its glory, for not only had it the embellishments of its sister broom-heads, but golden hair radiated from its head in all directions." The journals of November have interesting notes also of refraction and parhelia. At 10 h. 12 min. 41 sec. mean time of Fort Hope the sun's lower limb was a half degree above the sea horizon ; Southampton Island by refraction loomed up from ten to thirty minutes of arc above it, although at no other time visible from Hall's place of observation, opposite liae's Beacon Hill. Cape Frigid, forty-seven geo^^raphical miles distant, was visible, and the coast-lines yet further south, while a zone of about five degrees in width from the horizon upward was of resplendent colors extending around the heavens, the half circle opposite the sun being th.3 more brilliant. At svinset che phenom- enon renewed itself. A mock sun on the 30th deceived the untutored natives. During the last of the winter of 1865 and the beginning of the spring following, estrangements from the good feeling which had ex- isted between the white man and the natives showed themselves to a degree producing disquiet and even some apprehension of personal danger. But Hall succeeded in preserving his own equanimity and his control over the restless spirits of Ou-e-la, Ar-mou, and their people. His chief dependence for fcecuring this was his known connection with the whalers, whose return was now again to be expected in the bay, and, next to this, his frequent supplies of tobacco. Happily the estrange- ments were not serious. Both these chiefs had committed themselves and their people to the promise of assistance on his never-forgotten journey toward King William Land, and he was dependent on this promise. Ar-niou made lor him a complete cliart of the coasts he had visited, embracing a line from Pond's Bay to Fort Churoliill, a distance of 9Gt> nautical miles — a map rendering valuable aid to the explorer.* * In the "Fortnightly Review" for September, 1880, Mr. Francis Dalton, F.R.S., in an article under the heading of " INFental Imagery," says: " The Eskimos are geographer? by in^^'lnct, and appear to see vast tracts of country mapped o'.i, in tlieir lieads." From tlie multitude of illustrations of their map-drawing powers, I will select one from those (:i- u I'l. 'i "S 1 ' I I i jj ; 1 244 AMERICAN EXPLOllATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. FIRST ADVANCE TOWARDS KING WILLIAM LAND. Hall's occupations at Fort Hope had been the preparing the neces- sary })rovisions and stores for this lirst westward advance. IMurcli :](i. 18GG, his native friends Ar-mou, See-gar, Ar-goo-moo-too-lik, and On-c-Ki gave proof of renewed friendship by the loan of their dogs; Ihis wms the more pleasing, as during the winter he had almost despiiired df securing a team, his own stock consisting of "but two female duos equal to one good dog, and two puppies equal to a quarter of u good dog." The price at which one had been held was not lower than a double-barrelled gun. Ebierbing, Ar-mou, and Nu-ker-zlioo, with their families, and the young native She-nuk-shoo, made up his party ; all the others liad gone oif from the encampment. The start was made Avitli tlic wind fresh from the North-northwest and the temperature 00° below tiost point, and the gale became very severe, beating fiercely and direct Iv in the face of one who was poorly i)repared to bear it from his hav- ing eaten little or no food for several daj's. Li writing of this, he says there had been before him an al)undance of such as he would liiivc relished, if he could relish anything; but he had been so busy in writ- ing and so enwrapped in anxieties that he had little or no aitpctitc |!, 1 i -J 1 H includoil in tlio Joiu'iials of Captain Hall at page 224, v.liich wore piihlishod last yo-dv by the IT. S. Goveniment under the eilitorship of Prof. J. E. Xourse. It is the fao-siniilr uf a chart drawn hy an Eskimo wlio was a tliorough barbarian in tlie accepted sense of lli.; word; tliat is to say, he spoke no language except his own inicoiith tongue. Ih' \v;i< wholly nncducated according to onr modern idcis, and he lived in what we should call a strange fashion. This man drew from memory a chart of the region over which he liad at one time or another gone in a canoe. It extended from Pond's Bay, in hit. T->\ to Von Churchill, in lat, .58'^ 44, over a distance in a straight line of more than OiJO to \.hM English miles, the coast being so indented by arms of the sea that its length is six liiiir^ as great. On the eoin]>aring this chart (rougu Eskimo outline) with the Admiralty cliari of 1870. their accordance is remarkable. I have seen many route-maps made by travclliis in past years, wlien the scientific exploration of the world was much less advanced than it is now, and I can confidently say that 1 have never known of any traveller, wliitc, luiiwii, or black, civilizeil or uncivilized, in ^Vfrica, Asia, or Australii, who, being iuipni\iilril with instruments, and trusting to his memory alone, has produced a chart comparMblc in extent and accuracy to tliis barbarous Eskimo. Their powers of accurate dnnvin.' are abundantly testified by the numerous illustrations in Kink's work, all of which were iiuulo by self-taught men, and are thoroughly reliable." AN-K(H)T1NCJ. 246 "The l;ibnr of the writing wbicli 1 have done, without speaking of aiiviliiiig else, has been enough to kill many a man and has nearly killf'l nic." His route was up the North Pole River, north 50° east. To slielter hiiiiself from the sharp wind, he held his head at times low down behind the load on the sled. Oil tiie way a new souree of delay was caused by the continued ilhiess of Too-koo-litoo's babe, for whose relief her Innuit friends re- ciMimiended and practised different forms of an-kooting. On the 4th, tlie aii-ge-ko put a leather stra[) around Ebierbing's head while lying on tlic la'il; and when he occasionally pulled on this strap the head came ii[), (;i' it remained firmly down, though the lifts were hard ; the raising (if the head or its remaining steady, indicated the different replies to the ([uestions asked as to the future of the babe. On the 7th, the liabe's hciilth not having improved, Nu-ker-zhoo as "a newly-llcdged aii-yc-ko" entered on his work by pulling the strap around the iiead of one (if the women, and while propounding many questions to the Sjiirit, brought up her head when only an affirmative was made. For the third o]ieration, on the 8th, Nu-ker-zhoo brought into the igloo a stone weigh- iiit,' ten pounds, to which he made fast a string of ook-gook skin which lu; held in both hands, the hand nearest the stone being used as a kind of fulcrum as well as for lifting power. Holding on to the string he ])cgim to woo or call the Spirit, by repeatedly calling out '•' Attee, Attee; " lifting or pretending to lift on the stone to determine Avhether the Spirit answered. In two or three minutes it becamo immovable by the Spirit, as they believed, pulling hard down; and this was a sign that any questions would be answered. Some of the questions were: Should the child take anj'- more of Hall's medicines? or had Too-koo- litoo conformed to her people's customs? Would the child live? An- swers to the two first of these were always negative ; to the third it was iu substance that, if the mother would give up the use of the bread and tea, or stay with Ou-e-la's people the child might live, but if the parents weut forward one of the three would surely die. Such answers on either siile were indicated by the difficulty in lifting the stone : if the answer was no, it had its natural Aveight only ; if yes, it was hard to raise it f'tf ':\ !- : If;- H i i hi it h f i i i -L.Ai J' 1 246 AMEUICAN EXPLOllATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. the least bit. Hall could not undeceive the parents about this liftiiicr though the an-ge-ko's work was readily seen through, and on tiie l-nh Too-koo-litoo in her anxiety took her full share in another an-koot-incr and tlien in despair agreed to a decree to give away the babe and tlms save its life ; but, on Hall's remonstrance, the child was restcjroil to the mother. On the 13th, the long-expected death of the child took place. The almost distracted mother, the moment she found it was really dead, rushed out of the igloo, pressing the dead baby to her bosom and pniu'- ing out her soul's grief. Her leaving the igloo so quickly was in accordance with Innuit custom ; for if this is not done when any one dies in it, everything becomes worthless ; in this case it was considered that the mother went out soon enough, so that the bedding and evt rv- thing else need not be thrown away. In ten minutes she returned and took her seat on the bed platform, grieving for a very long time as a loving mother only grieves, but at length was persuaded by Mam-niark to let the dead baby be taken from her bosom and wraj)ped in a small furred took-too skin. Mam-mark insisted that, according to the custom of iier people, the remains must be buried at once ; but, on Hall's re- monstrating and ui'ging that they should be kept till at least the next day, a comi)romise Avas made, and the child that died at twenty -live nunutes past 1 P. M. was buried at C.30. It was wrapped in a blanket of took-too skin of long fur, tied with thongs, and having a looj) in it to go over the neck of the motl.sr, who must carry the corijse. A hole having been cut through the wall of the igloo for the pro- cession of four persons in single file. Hall, Mam-mark, the mother with the babe suspended from her neck, and the father f(dlowini; close, proceeded to the place of burial on a little hill, which Hall had selected. Delays from other sources increased, the Innuits sometimes pleading that they must turn aside for a musk-ox hunt, and then rest the whole of the day following. The average travel was scarcely more than IVdiii tAvo to three miles per day, the pfirty nearing Cape Weynton on the south side of Colville Bay at the close of the twenty-eighth day; — a journey made by Dr. Rae in '54, without a dog-team, in five days. NATIVES WHO HAD SEEN FRANKLIN. STRANGE NATIVES MET. 24T A new era in the history of the journey now opened. Ascending a bei"" uhove a floe to prospect the route across the bay, Hall and his two natives caught sight of four strange Innuits, who appeared to be sealing some three miles off. This was exciting to each, yet it was noccssury to be friendly as well as cautious, for some more news of the Franklin party might possibly be obtained from the strangers, and Hall w.is ever on the look-out for this. He (luickly sent back for the rest of liis ])arty, who hastened to him ; bill Nu-ker-zhoo felt sure that he was looking out on old friends. (idiiig forward, therefore. Hall ar- rived at sunset near the strangers, aii'- cd in the old an-kooting business with zest, spending their time and that of Hall's party in it ; and they made the party dissatislicd with the idea of advancing any further that season, frightening them from so doing. Nu-ker-zhoo said he was not afraid to go on, but the rest, at last, showed evident signs of fear, and it would have been useless to attempt an advance. Hall most unwillingly agreed to return, and began to see that a journey as far AvestAvard as he contemplated Avas not by any means promisini;, if he Avas to depend on the Tnnuits alone. He resolved, therefore, tn attempt it Avith the aid of a party of Avhite men, Avhom he hoped lie could secure from the Avhalers in the spring of the next season. Stui- I'lt.VXKLlX RKLICS. The llsli-liciiil crest idenlifies tlieiii us Kraiiklin's. -i h!-af AUUIVAL OF WIIALKItS. 249 in"' ii goodly quiuitity of provisions lor such ii journey, he loft ("ape Wcyntou with a sacklenetl heavt, and on the 23d of May was sale again at his old caniping-ground of Eeacon Hill. !)I•:L^^vs AT KEruLsi': ijay, and mii)-winti:ii sledge jori ,EV. — isou-07. Two full years had nov; passed since tlie sailing from New London. Tilt' liist huK^'ng at a mistaken point of the country had cost a year's (Iflav, and the failure to obtajn trustworthy native hel]. had now tiu'ird Kail back from his hoped-for advance to King William Land. The lirst j)age of his note-book, for March 31, 18G1, had upon it in bold writing: "Now for King William Land! up at four v.M., and get- ting ready for a start"; but the notes of May 25, 1806. "ei' "To-day iiiv King William party is ended for the present — di >^o'h....'il hut not ilisi-ititi'd'/cd." Yet he had the full consciousness that at least nine uionlhs nuist bo passed before he eoidd again set his face toward 'i-^ west, and that he could neither trust the Innuits for an advance, nor be sure of secur- ing suilicient provisions and dog-teams for so long a journey. He had reason to desire to meet again the Pelly Bay men, for Sce-pimu-cr had visited King William Land and had told of a Cairn, seen there by him, which had been built by the Kod-hMuu ; he h'd also spoken of having tnimd papers within it, which being good for nothing to Innuits, liad heen given to children or thrown away ; he had spent one night near this pile, wrapping himself in blankets taken off some banked-up cloth- ing of white men ; a skeleton being found near the pile. Hall almost persuaded himself t) at within that pile the Records must be found. But for any asTstance toward that next journey, he must wait for tlio coming in of some of the whaling fleet of the season. After an occupancy of two months in boat journeys for completing the survey of the bay, and after another long sufferance of the continued low cus- toms of the 'latives, he was gratified by the arrival of the "Pioneer," from New London, and answered Captain Morgan's salutation in tears ; the sight once more of a friend from the midst of home friends, was an overmatch for all the roughness which had been forced upon his nature iliHlti IJHIjH lilllMI \\M Hi I ' SI Mjil u.. ,; ). iiEl sN Ml .J!^ 250 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. by the ignorant and degraded. Several other vessels soon came in ; the " Black P2agle " bringing him letters from Mr. Grinnell, and fnnii Messrs. Harper, his publishers, a copy of the "Arctic Researches,"" the proof corrections of which he had returned from St. John's. Mr. Giin- nell sent him a letter from Lady Franklin, in which she had exjjrcssrd the deepest sympathy in his work. He was now successful in securing a second whale, the lenglli of which was sixty feet, and its blubber sufficient to yield sixty barrels of oil. By September, with native heli), he had placed on board the "Ansel Gibbs" about one thousand five hundred pounds of boni', to be sold on the return of the ship to the United States. But the whalers were not to return that season, the meagre results of their cruises forcing them to await the chances of a second y(;ar. From their crews, however, he soon had volunteers as substitutes tor the natives, and he had hopes of obtaining a sufficient number of doos. With the two Eskimo friends, he again set up his tupik on Beacon Hill, Dr. Rae's tenting-place of 1847, and entered with zest into the hunt foi' provisioning the coming winter, and in October, within his igloo, settled himself down to his plans and hopes. Yet before the first month of the New Year closed, he learned from the cai)tains of the four vessels, that they would not permit the Iniiuits to supply him with a single dog for the coming journey. They were feeding this people through the winter, and they would need all their dogs for sledding blubber and bone, at the opening season, from tlie water to the ships. Helpless to enforce his claim, Hall determined, therefore, to make a sledge-trip to Amitoke, or, perhaps, to Ig-loo-lik, even in the depth of winter to buy his dogs. The journey might bo one of more than three hundred miles, but another vear could not be lost. JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK. February 7, 1867, in the judgment of the best Arctic authorities "two months before any sledge journey should be attempted unless to save life," he set out for Ig-loo-lik with Ou-e-la, his wife, a boy, and a half-breed babe, as his only companions. HALL BUY8 HIS DUOS. 251 noNK-CllAU.MS OK l(i-Lu()-t,IK. Tlie usual delays were experienced. Oii-e-la stopped to visit llio (fiavt: of his brother, und as at this stopj)age some of the do<,'s \v»;re missing, a return to the shi^js became necessary ; on the renewal of the idiitc, the l)abe began to be both an annoyance and the cause of re- peated iialts, and the dog-lines at one time be(!am(^ cntanghid, causing them to be detached from the peto^ — tlie line of walrus-skin fastening tlit'ir trac(!S to the sled- niimers, its ends being IkiiiikI together by a tdH'n'U'. After the severe ex- j)('iieii(H> of further (Ichivs in gale-l)ound it-ioos, and of extreme sciireity of food chali ig (■veil Ou-e-la's spirit I > iiii^t r, the sledge-i)arty ill rived at Ig-loo-lik on the night of the 20th; and, by securing the good- will of the people by presents of needles, beads, and other articles. Hall "haltered for fourteen dogs, in as many minutes, setting his own price oil each." His articles of barter were, knives, tiles, and even pieces of old hoop -iron, and wood; but he as readily made this pur- chase as Mc- Cliutock had in 1859, when he bought a reindeer-coat for a knife, and a snow-house for four needles. For food to supply liis return journey. Hall gave some hoop-iron, an old meat-can, and a stick of wood, receiving several thou- sand ])ounds of walrus-hide. The Ig-loo-lik people, glad to see a Kod- lii-i:a. made him presents, the best of which was a warm fur-eup. Tlie "hone-charms" were held in high esteem. The bone-handle knife was s})oken of as having been used to scoop out the brains from the skulls of some Innuits by others, who had murdered tliem to save their own lives when perishing on the ice. KNIFE WHICH HAD BKKN USED IN SKULL-SCUAPING. )' ; v.;] ' N H ■! 1 !h r H 11 ^1 ' '< . ' m i*iH !| i ■ i il i r. Ij 1 ^ ' i 1 ' l\ i 1 ' i i i ! j ': ■1i ' 1 • i 1 ' 1 1 ' j i ■ i MMm or, 4) AMKUICAN KXI'LOUATION.S IN TMK ICK ZONKS. Anxious to iL'tiini to the buy, that lie iniglit l)t'giii liis wcstw.nd joiii'iiey, lu! was jigaiii duliiyod by tho whiiiiH of Ou-e-lii, but ini[ii(i\|.il tlic tiino by a visit to tbo spot whero Parry bad erected Ids lliiystift' (18^5), and hero be tound, with much interest, pieces of that stall uiih cU'ar indications, that, had the season j)eruntte(l, lie \vouhl bav»; I'miiid beh)W ground the written document of I'airy's (h-posit. The tivncli made in dragging the ihigstaff from the sea to where it was raised scenuid as (Ustinct as wbtui lirst worn by it into th(! linu'stonc On the day of tlie »tart homeward, it was found that ()u-e-hi had \>u\ mi th(! sh;d besidu li^\vife a widow and her ehihl and all her trajis : slic was left behind oii^tby large bribes from Hail. After further un- comfortable ('X[)eriencoK from the savage, whom he felt moic tliiin once like shooting on the spot, — es[)eeially when refused, while sick. suHicientfood, while Ou-e-hVs family were feasting, — Hall again sighted the ships. His journey had cost him fifty-two more days of preeinus time ; and he now found his plans again utterly arrested. Two months before, when be had his men seemingly secure(K the captains' plea had been that they could not spare the dogs. lie Imd now returned from Ig-loo-lik with his own full team; but the whal- ing season is open and he is behind time ; they cannot spare a man. He could punish Ou-e-la, as he now did, by seizing all his dogs and holding them until he had given penitent pledges for future goijd e( in- duct, but it is not surprising that for a number of days he hay sick and alnjost hopeless in his igloo. He was able to punish Ou-e-la because of the presence of the whalers near by. He seems to have forg(jtten that the native had been irritated by being prevented from briugiiis;- home a second wife. Ou-e-la afterward rendered Hail mueli good assistance. THE JOURNEY TO CAPE AVEYNTON. No new jom-ney to King William Land I But if this could not be in the coming season, the caclie made at the Cape, the year previous, must be visited, to make sure of the safety of its stores, which niiglit serve for the year following. Hall feared that the Pelly Bay men would carry them off. By the assistance of three of the whaling crcv s I TIIK SKAKCH AT 1(1-L<)<)-L1K. 2r>3 lie -liiited nortliwiinl with tlii'iii tuid his own two Eskimos, May 1, and (U itiiL'hiiig his cache, (liscovcrt'd that all had been uiiiMolested. ("hang- ing ilh- phifc of d{'i)osit to oii(> s('t'inin«fly safer and <»f ready access, he ■,[>r.i\\\ arrived at iJeacon Hill mi the seventeenth of the month. Ilis liii|ii fill conlidence of a jonrncy still to be niad(( for the rec^ords re- iiiiiiiicd unshaken, and the advance IIIX'LA. Every preparation Keeniingly needcul was nnule for the King William Fiiuid journey before the winter of 1807-08 had closed, liut Hall now felt himself "called to search first for the traces of the missing navi- ;4iit()rs in a new direction." This change of plan, he seems, witli reason to have afterward regretted; at the time of his decision to make it, he thought himself suiliciently advised by the natives, to be justified in t lie course. The sul)stance of the news Avhich governed his msw })lan was, that white men luid been seen within tlu; ])revious three years near Ig-loo-lik, and that stone i)iles had also beiMi found and tenting-placcis at jioints northward, which could not have been the work of others than K(id-lu-mis. Too promptly crediting these Innuit stories, and inferring fniin them that some of Franklin's men must have been in that region (»f country, possibly to seek a homeward passage theiu'c to England, ho decided to explore the coasts of the straits named above. March 23, 1808, Avith his own two Eskimos, one Avliitc man, Lailor, and the native Pa-pa-too-a, lie left liis encampment. For a long journey lie had but a mall dog-team and a heavy load of i)rovisions with articles i'lir presents antl barter. l>v a veturu of disease he liad lost fifteen dogs, hut happily succeeded in securing from the Innuits tive of tl.'o eight uuly that remained alive about the bay.* * Tlie nature of tlin Eskimo dog disoaso was closely noted in t.l reaching King William Land. By tlu; close of August be had succeeded in the capture of another whale, the ljlul)l)er of which was cached for fuel tlie skin for food, the meat for the dogs, and the bones for renewed shi|iiiient to the United States. Huring ibe month of Noveml)er he made ;i uiurney to Lyons Ldet, surveying portions of it ; having made on the t\v(i journeys of the year, the dis('(»veries of a UvW inlet, bit. 07° N., Ion. S4" ;',()' W., a few miles north of Norman Creek; a bay on the west side ,,t' Fox- Channel, lat. G0° N., Ion. 81° 30' W.; a lake twenty-live miles in l,.ii<,'ili, lat. 08° 45' N., b)n. 82° W. ; and a second lake, in bit. i;it° 35', iiftv miles in length, with its two iiuilrts: the lake running parallel with Fury and Ilecla Straits. Also, two islands ; one ncjrtbwest of the west end of that strait and the (ither at its east end. What he considered accom[)lished of the most inHiortance geographically was the cDiiipletioii of the coast around the iidilh side of Melville Peninsuhi. The winter of 18G8-69 was spent with more than usual comfort. The natives were better supplied with ^;L(ircd provisions and bad better success in the hunt during the intervals of '^])en seasons. IlalFs inter- course was not again broken by estrangements on their [)art, i>iit he luid much to bear from their too great intimacy, their frequent and lonif protracted visits to his igloo, which was at times filled with men, wdinen, and children to the youngest, all jabbering, crying, liumming, lu'g^ing and stealing. They gave him some compensation, perhaps full rei'oiu])ense — by their suitplies of the walrus and seal. His visits to tiieir village were frec^uent. lie remai)ied free from a touch of scurvy as indeed he was throughout all of the three expeditions, of nearly nine years. By March 21, 1869, he and Ebierl)ing had dried nearly two hundred pounds of venison, made up new furs for the spring journey and iiAi.i/s no.vT-no(i. d 'ill ' llflj t ; i" * 1 ^ \ \ IT If. *. :'-| 'j ' '!■■ . '■ . , \ \ 1 \ l:^ : i i '■1 A ini'i'iri'i/r .roiiiNKV. 2^)9 „„,iiI'I(' ItKACIIKI). IH(i!», — KIN«; WIM.IAM dill' Now for Kiii^ VVilliiim lyiiiid," was iif^aiii tli(! nofo-book iriHftripiion ic (lay. 'I'lic pitrly <•!' naiivcs miiiiln'i'cd (iv(^ iih-ii and live fcinalcH ; an infant in llic linod. Despite^ tln! past. cxpcricncM-s of Inniiit (Itlavs, il. was ii(»\v cidiri- l)y IIkmi' help or no adviincc wliutcvcr. 'I'lic loads of tiio sk^ds wcic, ol' nccicssity, li(ravy, llic <^n-oss \v<'i^iif. of (llic licii)^ iH^arly tAV'o tltoiisand (tij^lit ImndrfMl |)oiinds, and of tin? otlior \\\n (lioiisiind livt! Imndrcd, and as this woidd l)o (!X(^liisiv(i of the \\( i'^lil of any of tli(( J'lU'ty who would ride, tli(! do;^fs would Ix; closely incsscd. 'I'Ik! I'uinxu'S of tlic sUmIs wv.vv. shod with tin; jawboiKi of tlas wlialc; and (ho usual ('Xp(!dients of iciii^ wluui n(U!OSsary, and of siih- •ilitiiiinj^ tho luan-lic.lp for Ihci 'Si \v(ao (!Xj)(!oted to liavo })lat:o on the route. The foot ^'nr liad been W(dl ])rovid(!(l. On tho Hist wIkmi tlio paity iKiai'iMJ C'ayic, liady i'clly, iruisk-ox trucks wvw found to ]n: nuiiiorous. TIk! hUmIs needing rc-ldwf. tin- iiiixliir(! was niadt! up of sn()W-wat(;r and ui'in(!, fonnin;^" a, inoi'c dnrahlc imd. Th(! caclM^ left: in ]H(!H at CajK! VVcynton w fouml iiiidis- ('iiin|i(ii r(^-(l( posit (Ml ird. Hut thf tinl»c(| ; |)a,rt of the stores were; usc(l, tlw! nniiaiiKhM- Inr the return supply. 'Vhv. journey uow was we Iiiniiit (h^lays IVoni this inonuMit ren(;we(l tlieinscilvc iiidc la/ily on (he sle(ls, one was asleep in midday. liall S(M!Iiic(| ti Hjine o f tl ion ive \V(inder(Ml Ihat noiu! eared for his search, bui tl 10 same tun* 111' Wdll in Ml I l)illCK( inns; dered that, ili(! ])arty ma(l(! what advanco they did, as the, sle(lfr(.s leiilly sank 'lown full six inches, and at times ^v{a■o com|»let('ly (1. The route was with difliculty d(;tormined by any obsei ra- dopcndonfMi was (liei-efore necessarily laid upon native experi- ence and instincts. At one of the "oncampments, recmd its location, he wrote: — en '((jsiniiu'' to I i'i 2t:o AMERICAN EXI'LOKATIONS IX THE ICK ZONKS. "It is no woiuler tlmt my dead reckoning may be faulty with Imt the aid of a small compass across the [)lains of an unknown ciuniiiv snow-clad; thick weather ; much of the tin)c snowing ; no object \\li;it- cvev in sight to aid in nudcing straiglit cours(>s ; large variation of (mu- pass ; no siglit of sun, moon, or stars by which to determine latitiidi i,i- Sl.rTlNi; OUT I'OH KINO WILLIAM LAND. variation of the compass, — lean determine by astronomical obsoiva tions only, the errors which are possible." On the 10th of April the dogs scenting new igloos, were iminediatny inspirited to make a very ra|)i(l run. They overturned sleds and travel- lers. The native guide. Papa Tewa, became evidently alarmed, but Hall urged the party forward. Apprehensions of a hostile meeting liad not been wanting, and Jerry was sent cautiously forward, but he soon reappeared Avith a signal of peace from the newly found huts. From one of them an old man and his wife made their a])pearance, aimed each with a long knife, but offering a welcome: the man proved to bo a 11 KIN(; WllJ.lAM LAND. 2(11 1)11 i iK'V of the old cliief wlioiii Hall had met two 3'ciirs hcfore. In liis lull wi Tu louiid several articles which, lie said, had cDiue out ol' a ship ^1111;, (111 Kik->'-tt(/i\ Kiii^' William Lund. lie told much the usual slor\ of iiie ship and ol" the men wlu) had perished. 'I'lifse people were miserably wietelieil in tliiir ixivert}'. They had |ii>! nearly iill their dog's by the oi't jirevalent disease which destroys tlhin ill numbers, and had no I'oud whateve)' except a lew seal bones wiili putrid meat upon them, uor had they fuel for lire. Hall's com- jiiiiiv i)arely made out to obtain some drinking water by the hel[) of a little lire shrub (the Amlromiula fi'tiuKjoncC) gathered from beneath the .siiiiw. Hall fed the hungi}- in the hut. lUu from some news eommu- iiiciiied to Hall's party, they be- came yet more alarmed, still he persuaded them to go forward. On I lie 18th of the mouth they cncaiii[)ed on Simpsc^i's Lake ill lat. t;8° m' '2-1" N., h,n. 111° 31/ W., where a musk-ox was secured and a full supply en joyed by all. Hall remarks that the greater part of what was killed went down the In- uuit paunch; "and as for one of them, Nu-ker-zhoo, he is a regular luig, eating more than any two others, feeding his dog on the choicest liieees, and having no shadow of regard for others." May :5(), more igloos were seen and proofs of their being occupied; ountlier .idvance was made, further prejjarations being taken for dc- t'ciici'. Within one hundred and iifty fathoms of the huts, two of the ]iart\ Wert! sent forward, knives in hand: but tlu>y found the strangers willing to be frit'iids. 'I'lu" man, of whom Hall had more than once lii'anl. as the one knowing the most about the ships, Li-nook-poo-zhee- juMk. hastened to meet him. The lirst (question asked was " Nou-ti-ma Aglooka?" fwhere is Cro- zier ■' ) and the first thing shown was a large silver spoon with an eel's UALL'S HK1,T AXU TAULiyr-COVKHS FOK HIS NOTKS. m\ r ^'1 262 AMEIIICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONKS. head crest — Franklin's. An cnciunpniunt was immediately made, the natives cutting out their snow-blocks for the igloos with knives w liii], had come from the shi[)s. The hut was. full of things from them, ami Hall readily made his purchases. The old man sketched for him tlu; hind lie was to visit, directed his route, and fed him on accounts of the Franklin men. Talcing him ujion his sled, llall went forward to lind a place on which some white men were buried; the native led him l,v a straight course to the desired spot on Todd's Islands. On one of tliese islets he lixed liim- self, and immediately set out to si anh for the graves, finding, however, part only of a Imnian skeleton. Crossinir the second day to the mainhuul, after hours of weary labor in digging down into the snow covering, his attendauis found one entire miburied skeleton; over this a pile was built up, but ili(> gale and the hardness of the snow do- barred further search, nor was greater success the result of continued search at other points. During his stay with the natives on this visit, he felt satis- fied that he could now account for probably seventy-nine of the one hun- dred and five men of Crozier's party from the abandoned ships. They told him that Ag-Ioo-ka (Crozier) had come along near their tents, his telescope hung about his neck, and his men dragging two boats; he had a gun in his hand, but on seeing him lay it down, the Innuits laid down their spears; he told them about the ice destroying their ship, and of the men who had died, and said that he was going to IwilUk (Rejailtie Ba}^), making motions with his hands in that direction. They also said that the Innuits had left them, knowing that they were starved men. Hall reproved them .sharply for deserting Crozier. It would, how- ever, seem probable that they did so under the fear that Crozier's larger IVORiT KNIVES. HxVLL8 UNWILLING RETURN. 268 pai'tv would starve them out; ami hero the remark seeuis to force itsi 11". that the terrible loss of Cro/.ier's large party must have been the icsiilt of the t'ailun to secure, bel'ore the shijjs sauk, enou<;h of eon- (IciiM'd provisions for their land journey, and of his imt having native hcliicrs as part of liis ei(!W, on whom he might have depended as later '2^J!^^h^M^'^^i FAC-SIMILE OF A PAGK OF HALI/S FIFTY-TWO NOTE-BOOKS OF THIS JOUUNFV. explorers have always done for guidance and for success in the hunts. This success might have been lo(»ked for from experienced Innuits at the season of the fatal march, the middle of June. • ) f i RETURN TO THE BAY. The final return journey was now begun. All the natives who had yniie Avith Hall were anxious to be safe back at Repulse liay, Nu-ker- zhuu declaring that unless they started back in four days, the ice and fi. li^ 264 AMEIIICAN EXPLOUATrONS IN THE ICE ZONES. siinvv would be off the sea, and they would have very L,n('iit tidi.Me. The journey to Terror liay, on the west side ol' the Island, where ii w^s said a tent had once been found, tiie (loor of whieh was complcltiv covered with the remains of white men, and even a shorter jourmv tn Point liiehardson were tluucfoie given up. 'I'iie return party consisted of fifteen persons with a team of eighteen dogs, t)ne of these not hi in.r jiermitted to do work for some days for having eaten up a biihc wliich a native woman had thrown away on tinding it was not a male. In- iiook-j -zhce-jook had proved so skilful a guide that Hall now took no aeeounl of his courses, but gave himself up to the noting down ol' what- ever further accounts of Franklin men he could glean. The cut repre- sents a page of these notes written on the rough sled. Just hefoi'c reaching (ape Weynton, Papa Tewa shot a mother (h^ci. which lh'(l, leaving the fawn to have its life "footed out," as the term is, for pressing down heavily one foot over the young heart. Vvnwi this point the chief items of interest were in the repeated and successful hunts of the musk-ox. The natives were eager for the hunt, and Hall himself went in with them, killing three with two balls, whieh wtic found lodged in the third; Hannah killed four young ones. The striking points of these hunts are illustrative of Tnnuit customs and of the habits of the ox when attacked. The fight was at the plaif where two bands were successively seen. When the first of these was surrounded, as soon as they perceived that the dogs were sli[)ped, they formed into their usual one circle of defence, "a musk-bull batteiytif nine solid battering heads and twice the number of shai'i)ened lionis." The dogs were quickly at these heads, barking and jumping back and forward, while the hunters made no haste to advance, for they knew that the bulls would stand their ground all day if no other enemies came. " After a few minutes' watch of the movements of dog versus hull and bull versus dog, the old hunter, In-nook-poo-zhee-jook, went f(n\\ ard to -vvitliin twelve feet of a large bull, carrying a lance which had a Hue attached by which he could draw it back ; but at his second throw, the wounded and infuriated bull nuule a fearful forward plunge, from the effects of which the hunter and his companions escaped only by a very LKTTKU TO MU. 'iUlNNELL. 265 tinu'ly jump to tluj li'Tt. TIk; bull was soon ii^'iu bmujrht, to bay. On-i-lii then pulled trin'ijcr on aiiotlicr iinl)l(! bull of tlic circle ol' ,l,.|'i iicc. and l*a-pii shot tliL' one wliicli had bcrn lanced, when at liie II, )i-' nl' these guns the whole eirele bolted away, exeejil two, who stood tliiii' n'round, side by side, long after the whoU- liuhl was ended, and cvi II when the dogs were driven away I'roni them and stones had been tlir^wii."' '•Instead of moving, each of these two lliarp lightning. Hannah told Hall that in her country lightning was always fatal to red dogs ; her people always killed them when vdiiiii;. The plains were now purple with the wild saxifrage (saxi- tra^a oppositifolia) ; its beautiful flowers, followed by those of other lldial tribes, clothed the earth with carpets of gold, crimson, blue, white, j)iiik. and straw-color. The Andromeda tetraf/ona, so often used as tliti shrub fuel, itself bore pretty flowers. Hall's collection of wild flowers embraced a dozen varieties. Mosquitoes were very num- erous and persistent; a walk on shore seemed unbearable, unless every exposed part of the body was covered with a defence. Hall's was coal-oil. lie was now for some weeks solicitous as to his return home. Con- scious that he could accomplish nothing further of research, he purposed to publish the results of his protracted Arctic experience, and then make a voyage to the Pole, on which subject he had long meditated ; then iiyaln to return to King William Land. The expression of such pur- l)oses conies strangely from one whose sledge journeys only during the live years now ended, footed up more than four thousand miles. Noth- ing but the extreme of a strange fascination with an uncouth life can explain this. He says himself that whatever food the natives delighted in delighted him ; that he had enjoyed a grand gof)d feast on the kind of meat he had been longing for, "the deer killed last fall, rotten, strong, and sthiking, and for these qualities excellent for the Innuits and for tlie writer." This, however, must not be taken as an indication of any sympathy with the low and immoral practices he was compelled to wit- ness. Unable to restrain the demoralization brought on by large suc- cesses in the hunts when the Innuits ate three-fourths of their food for the mere pleasure of eating, he was yet more pained by the fact that the hunts were made occasions for promiscuous concubinage. This was the iV^ < i\ ■iiJ i lii m^ 268 AMEllICAN EXPLOUATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. :n T ! constant pnictieu. Iliinnuh said she "would rather die right away ihmi stay at the hay." While he was hoping for the sight of a wlialer, he succeeded with native help in guniniing nearly eight hundred pounds of bone from the whale cached the year previous, on the sale of which and of his musk-ox skins he was expecting to repay some of the costs of the vcvam,'. But now the question of the possibility of his being compelled to attenij)t in his frail boat a voyage to York Factory, Hudson's iJay, without a chart, was happily settled by the arrival of the "AiistU Gibbs" of New Bedford, on board of which vessel he took up his (|iuii'. ters with Eskimo Joe, Hannah, and her adopted child Pun-im; at Ig-loo-lik two years before he had bartered a sled for this child, to console Hannah for the death of her own babe. The whaler left the Welcome August 28th, passed through Hudsous Bay and Straits without the occurrence of any incident of uii usual interest, and came into the harbor of New Bedford, Mass., SejjtLiiihir 2U, 18(10. When nearing the lighthouse of Nantucket, Mass., Hannah and her child doffed their native dresses for those of a civilized land. At the Parker House, New Bedford, Hall made his last journal entry, So[)t(iii- ber 26, 1869, 2 p.m.: "How thankful to high Heaven ought my i)n(ir heart to be for the blessed privilege of again placing my foot upon the land of my country." He immediately telegraphed his arrival to Mr. Henry rJiMiuell, expressing his hope of seeing him in a few days in New York, and within the next month, was at work in that city for his North Polar Expedition of 1871. noKNS OF .MUSK-OX AND DKKU SHOT HV UANNAU, CHAPTER VIII. THE XOUTII I'OLK EXl'KDITIOX OF 1S71. 1IAI,|/S KAPvLY DKSIKE TO KEACH THE POLE — LECTl'KE IN WASIMNCJ- T(»N — Al'l'HOPUIATION HY CONCiUESS — THE "I'OLAIMS" SAILS Vlum Ni;\V VOKK — AKIUVES AT FISKEItNAES — U.S.S. " CONtJKESS" AT (J01>- IIAVN — HANS HENDlllCK — TESSUISSAK — NOUTH WATEIl llEACHEI) — THE "Polaris" ijeset at 82° lo' — consultation — DitiiT to Tin; SOUTH — ANCHORED TO PROVIDENCE BEIU; — WINTER QUARTERS — SLED(;E JOURNEY — DEPOSIT IN THE CAIRN — HALL's DEATH AND lUIIIAL — ^VINTER OF 1871-72 — AURORAS — RETUP.N OF THE SUN — THE "Polaris" leaves the harbor — drifts south — the SKI'APtATION — THE SHIP LEAKING — HOUSE ON THE FLf)E — DRIFT OK THE FLOE PARTY AND RESCUE — RELIEF SHIPS SENT FOR THE "POLARIS" — DkLONC's CRUISE — RESCUE OF THE " POLARIS " PARTY I5V THE " RAVENSCRAIG " — HALL's MEMORIALS — MEDAL AWARDED — TAI5LET PUT UP RY THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION THE ESKIMOS KID-LA-GO, JOE, HANNAH, OUSE-GOONG, AND ABBOT — GRAVES AT (lliOTON, CONN. DIJIIING eiujli of Ilall's two residences among the Eskimos he repeatedly spoke of his hope to lead an Expedition toward the Pole ; writing to a friend as early as 1863, "My third voyage will be to the northern axis of the great globe." He renewed like expres- sions in the notes of his Second Voyage, and wrote to the Committee of IJ. S. Senate on Foreign Aflairs, March 29, 1870, that for years he had hold this in mind. In the beginning of that year, on a visit to Washington City, lie had called upon President Grant, and, not long after, lectured before him in response to an invitation signed by the Vice-President and members of the Cabinet and of Congress then in session. After a laborious and anxious season of suspense, he succeeded in obtaining an appropriation for an Expedition to the North Pole, in the sum of 850,000, by a clause incorporated in the Legislative, Executive, and Judicial Appropriation Bill, approved by the President July 12, 1870. Eight days afterward, 269 .1 i-i I'tpl' I i it ft .iri I 9 PH ; ' < I ■ !? il' 270 AMKUICAN EXPLOUATION8 IN THE ICE ZONES. 4,1 I, i ■■ ! t "i -.hi ml he received a coimnission as Coinmaiuler of the Exi)e(liti()ii, wliidi recjuired hiiu to ie[)oi't to the Secretaries of the Navy and of the Int. lior Departments for detailed instructions. The Act authorized tii(! Si ( i,.. tary of the Navy to enijih)y any suitable vessel in the Exi)editi(»ii. and providcil that the scientilic operations should be prescribed in a( ciud- ance with the advice of the National Academy of Sciences. The vessel selected as available for the purpose was the stcMincr "Periwinkle," a tug which had seen some service in the war ul the rebellion ; her burden was three hundred and eighty-seven tons. At in being newly and heavily tind)ered and strengthened in her side plank- ing, the bottom was thort)Ughly calked, then double-planked, calktMl and coi)pered. Everything else deemed necessary for safety and ((ini- fort was also done with such care that "no vessel, even if especially built, could have been better adapted to the service." * Launched at the Washington yard, April 25, 1871, she was named by Hall the "Polaris," under which name she sailed for New York, June 10, and, after further equipment at the Brookl^'n yard, proceeded to New l.un- don, June 29, and sailed for the Arctic Zone July 3. Her complement of officers, including the scientific corjis, was : — C. F. Hall, commander. S. O. Budington, sailing-master. George E. Tyson, assistant navigator. H. C. Chester, mate. William Morton, second mate. Emil Schumann, chief engineer. A. A. Odell, assistant engineer. N. J. Coffin, carpenter. . Emil Bessels, surgeon, chief of scientific staff. R. W. D. Bryan, astronomer. Frederick Meyer, meteorologist. The crew consisted of fourteen persons, and the two Eskimos, Joe and Hannah, were again Hall's companions. * This endorsement of the fitness of the "Polaris" for Arctic service, quoted from the late Admiral Davis, is a sufficient answer to the contrary representations mado iiy some of the under officers of the ship, and on that authority only copied in foreign pul)- HALLS INSTUUCTIONS. 271 Secretary K<)l)e8on's instructions to the Commander advised him tliiit iu' might expect additional supplies through a transport which he wouM meet at Holsteinborg, or at Disco, and, that after receiving these 111 >liituUl proceed across Melville Bay to Cape Dudley Digges, and tlitiici' make all possible progress with vessel, boats, and sledges toward till' Nuith Pole, using his own judgment as to the route and the loca- tion of his winter quarters. The operations of the Scientific Depart- iiH'iit being recjuired by law to be in accordance with the advice of the National Academy, he was furnished with a full copy of their sugges- tions, and instructed to give to the head of the Scientific Corps every facility in carrying these into effect. Dr. Bessels was to renuun chief (if tliis corps in the event of the death of the Commander, and Captain Hiidiiigton to continue as the sailing and ice-master, and control and direct the movements of the vessel. The " Polaris " was provisioned and ecjuipped for two and a half years, but her cruise was not restricted to this period, if Hall's objects called for an extension of time and his sui)plies would hold out. Appreciating the opportunities which might otter for the extension of the knowledge of geography and of otiier sciences, the Secretary added to his instructions relative to the work of the Seientilic Corps, that any and all individual observations or collec- tions made by persons outside of the corps should be considered, as is usual, public proj)erty, and placed under the charge of the chief of the Scientific Department. The positions of capes, headlands, and islands, and tiie coast-lines, and the observations of tides and currents, with the making of surveys, were also objects of the Secretary's instruc- tions, besides the detailed suggestions of the Academy on these sub- jects, furnished as of equal authority. "Hairs own views of Arctic investigation," says Admiral Davis, "were much more comprehensive than might be inferred from the means and material employed in his previous Expedition. His own lilan embraced two vessels, together with a large supply of dogs and sledges. If he could have carried out this plan, he meant to maintain lications. Admiral Davis used tills language to express the result of his inquiries at the Navy Department and at the Washington Navy Yard, at which yard an outlay exceeding tlie sum of $90,000 had heeu expended on the "reriwinkle." IJI t\ i , \ ■ \ n^^M ' ^ { 1 t I If I ] ] \] ■i w It - ' I ' i ■ I ' 070 AMKUICAN EXPLORATIONS IN TIIK ICK ZONKS. W'Tid an occasional conununicalion Ixitween liiniself and the civilizt'd wherever lie might be. And there is no (hmbt that, for tlio uccom|ilisl|. ment of this, he would have turned to a good account his familiarity with Eskimo life, language, and customs. Thus he would have been FISKKIJNAKS AND IIOLSTKINIKHM!. ::73 ;,1,1, not only to report progress, but to recrivi; julditioiial aid from l„,iii, . Siuli was liis expoctatictii. If we carry our minds l);iik- to the hi^titry of Arctic Hx[tlorati<»n, wo pcrccivu at once how many I vil> aic avoided, and how many udvantaifes reaped hy this jciint iiMipcratiim." * (>ii the voyage to Newfoundland the "P(tlaris" eneountere(l heavy wiMilicr and fretfuent fogs. On thi; lOth she made Cape l{a(;e, ami on [III' iLllh anchored at St. John's. Ilall here again received every cdur- iis\ and attention from the authorities of the I'rovince; in turn he I uiritiiined the (ioveruor und his suite. 'J'he shij* left St. Jolnr.s fur (irtiiiland on the I'.Uh, and on the -Tth had the llrst sight of higli >ii(i\\-(iivered peaks, and of wel(M)ming natives in their kai/n/cs. 'Tlie sMiiir day the " I'olaris "' dropped aneiior in tlie harbor of Fisktiiiars, wiiciv sht! was visited by Governor Schoenheidter, and on the ni-xt il;i\ Iiy the greater part of the ])opulation, especially by the wnmcn. ••>niiu' of these were thought to be liandsome ; all were gayly dn-ssed, wearing boots of well-tanned seal-skin, which reached above the knee, seal-skin trousers tastefully onuimented with needle-work, and jackets (dvci'cd with bright ch)tli and trimmed around the neck, wrists, and I'lwcr edges with fur and pretty bead ornaments." Alter a visit by some of the party to tlu; Moravian Missionaries at hiclitcnfels, wluj, at this i)lace, have care of inon; than half ot" the wiidlc number of Eskimos of (rreenland under them, the shii» left the hiulinr and anchored, on the 8tst, in IIolsteinl)org. At this jiort a Swedish Scientific Expedition under the command of Baron Von Otter, iidw on its return voyage, brought Hall the good news from I'per- iiavik. that the season w'as promising, few icebergs having been seen 111 t ween Ilolsteinborg and Disco, and none recently between l)is':o and I'liernavik. Baron Von Otter received Hall's first dispatches for the Secretary of the Navy. His ship expected to stop at St. John's. The "I'lilaris" awaited the arrival of the U. S. ship "Congress," the trans- iKiit which was to renew his supplies and bring further instructions, * Narrative of the North Polar Expedition of 1871," edited under the direction of the Secretary of the Navy, by Kear- Admiral C. II. Davis, U. 8. Naval Observutory, 1876. Fiuni tliis volume cliielly the present clmpter has been prepared. in s f, I I: :|P| * ii I U. i [■ ii' ? ! ■i .1 ■! l' ! I. 1 M i . 1 M i; r , J il :i I '■ 1^ 1 i Ii 1: lilii. 274 AMRUirAN KXl'LOItATIONS IN TIIK ICK ZONES. but left the harbor August 3, and, uiulor the j^uithiiice of a iiativo |iil,,t. tweuly-tbur hours al'lerwarda, was salt' iu the Iiarbor of (Jodhavn. On ■/I y •J the Gth the Coinuiander, aecompanied by several of his i)eople, attorn Id 1 divine service in the neat but very phun cliapel of the Moravian • HANS IIKNIHUCK KNUAOED. |I\ iiiiis were cliantod, passii^cs of tlui Scriptures road, jtrayers ofTcrcd, ;iiiil .1 si-ruHdi jirt'aflitMl by the Cati'cliist in tiii' ahsi-iicc nl' tlic rr^Milar , l,i.;\ man. 'I'lic Chief Iiisi)ect(>r «»f the District, Mr. Siuitli, who iiiiil ii"W c'oiiu' to (lodhavii in response to a niessaj^e sent hy a l)oat jniiiinv uinler Mate Chester to Kitteiibeek, was visitt'd by Mali and l,v (apt. II. Iv. Davenport, U.S.N., who had arrived in eonmiand of till' transport, the " Con^iess," and wliose ollieers on huidin<;' were salutid by a battery of six O-poumh'rs, whieh was returned by the ••Ciiiii^Moss," the Danish lhi}j; bi'ing hoisted at her nuist-head. The liisiK'ctor very cordially responded to the letters of the Secretary of the Navy, presented by ('apt. Davenport, consenting to receive and liire liir in the (Jovernnient store-house, the stores and provisions for the use of the Expedition, — the "Congress" had brought sup- plies beyond present necessities. IJefore the shi[> left the harbor. Captain Davenport gave "some jutlicious instructions and advice to the crew of the ' I'olaris,' which, considering the heterogeneous cliaratler of the ship's company, was well-timed"; had it been fol- lowed, some later ditliculties might have been prevented. Kev. Dr. Newman, of Washington, Kev. E. D. liryan, of Carbondale, Pa., and (apt. .bimes Budington, of Groton, Conn., (the salvor of the British slii|» "Resolute," ) passengers on the " Congress," returned in her. 'J'he '•rolaris" left (iodhavn on the 17th, and the next day Svartehuk was (III the starboard beam, distant eight miles ; and at 1 A. M. of tin; 19th the slii[) anchored in Upernavik, Ijaving made a run of two liundred ami twenty-tive miles in thirty-three and a lialf hours. The inhabitants wi'if all asleep, and were not easily awakened; the sun at midnight hail licni but four degrees below the horizon, and it was then but one udur and a half to his rising. Mate Chester was now disi)atched in a boat to Proven, fifty miles soutliward, to bring Hans Ilcndrick to the ship, and a kayak was sent till' same distance northward to procure Janson of Tessuissak, whose srrvicts, however, were not secured. Hans Hendriek contracted to st'ivc as dog-driver and servant at a salary of fifty Danish dollars per nioiith. His wife and three children came on board the "Polaris" with tluir luggage of bags, boxes, skins, cooking utensils, tools, im[)lements i'l f I M I I :i»! !i:t . V' d'. I ■ ' i ill 270 AMKKICAN KXI'LOHATIONH IN TFIK ICK ZONKS. «»f the cliaso, ami three »ti- four impjiij-s whose fy«'s eoiihl Heiireelv \>v,w tho lij^lit. Thi'se aci-oiiipaiiiiiieiits, as tui the I^xpeditioii '»f' I\'. II.iv.s, proved a iiuisaiM;e ; Hans, a most useful hel|iei'. lie did not recoMni/,. Morton until tiiu latter had pointed out some svars on Hans' ii.;|it hand, the r«Muains of injuries from a powder (.'Xplosion on the slmiv of Kennedy Chaniu'l. Twenty years had passed since the two had mnilc for Kane the memoralde sledj;'e journey to ('a[ie Ctuislitution and iln- repoi'ted ••open Polar Sea." The I'liernavik settlenn-nt consists of some twenty-two hoiisi^ in. haltitcil l»\ sixtv Eskimos. The\- aiipeareil even less cleanlv than tliMx- L I lit t in the mor(! southern settlemeids. Just hack of the settlement on ihc slojic (»f the ridge, is u graveyard, distingiiishcil hy crosses, head-hoanls. and little inulosures marking the graves, "Tlu; ahsencc; of vegetal idii. the want of uu'thod in the arrangeiiuMit of the graves, and the di-iii;il asjjeet of the fragments of unsightly roi-k covering the surface, ;iiMi(l greatly to the sadness and dreariness of that ncutheru cemetery. Thr hardness of tho ground making it necessary to [ilace tlu; eoHins on it> surface, and cover them with stones, the remains in the comsi' of timt' often heeonu' exposed." At this settlement, ohservatious for pi^iiinu were made and its nuignotie elentents determined ; collections of the faumi atid lloraof the surrounding country were ol)taiue<\v" fully satisfied with all the eqnipments of his ship and tho prnmisc before him. He wrote that the prospects of the Expedition were tine, HAM, S MIMCillT llnl'KS. nioic so than lie had ever hoped or piiiycd for. The ' j which ('V<'ii tlit'ii >lii)t (h)Wti upon him was to him no uincii of evil. 1-1 V. I'l'i' a niunber of days fonowiii*;- he had iiidced reasons for being stitn;4ihencd in every ground for encouragement. His advance was r III 'i|i|ii ', ' « ' H' /i I 1 ! 'i I'i I i'! ?"i 27. AMKUICAN KXI'LOUATIONS IX THE ICK ZONKS. more rapid than had beou secured tm any former Arctic voyage. For the iirst thirty miles other course from the harbor the ship was In ;i,l,.il due north, careful lof)kouts beiny; posted on watch for the coast (1;iiil;i is sail Was echiT; as the fog' continued: at noon of the ^oth, when it lifted, all set to a freshening brt-eze and ('a])e York was soon sighted. I were numerous, and the pack-ice more than once encountered, lim on nnining westward along its southern edge, the " Polaris," al'ter s. me buffeting and working through the pack, stood on a course aliMin >J.N.\V. true, and on tlu; night of the 2()th left the Cape beliiml Inr. The north water had thus been favorably reached in about forty-* i^lii 1 iours. ("I'owds of walruses were now seen ])laekeiiing two lloe pieces wliidi covered areas of half a mile each, 'i'hey were lazily slee[)iiiu. and showed no signs of apprehension at the ajiproach of the ship i'urilici than to roll their heads la/ilv about. Huddled closelv to^'ilier aiiii (tffering easy range to each lloe as tlu> ship jjassed between llicin. they were twice fired at by l^sk'uK* Joe, but with the success only ni' Wounding. Captain Thdl was unwilling that the slii[) should slop lni the ca[iture of any. ]\Iueh ice was again found off the northern entrance of AV osini- loline soum I; it was the 1 )av-u'e o f but one winters u'rowth, nut w liciv it was closely packed, the "-Polaris'' had a dilhcult task to get thiniinli: vet at midnight of the 2tlth she had left Fitz-Clarcuce Pock :ii 01)1 )OSl 'I'l te C 11 )e P urrv In tl le mo rninu' of the 27th she was con Id \va- llicllcH for the jirxf tttne to stop off Mie western shore of llakluyt Island. For the ice now (•han'j;'ed its character, bein<>' found in tl le solnl ami permanent packs which had accumulated in bays and straits and ar the outlying islands. Yet the sliij) soon made new all!|i| II !'_;■- U'l'l'llrr in St lect iim IK! W( akest .loints for tlu> attack and working t irnll^'li 'verv favorable lead. \t o T.M. ho was oitposi le ( a lie Al exaiiilcr I'allr live, he had ])assed Littleton Island: and at eight, crossed the ]ia of Kane's Pi'iisselaer Harbor. Smith's Sound was also found oiuii. The '•Polaris" ^\•as alread\- in higher latitude than that reached on ihis route by any formi'r expedition. if^ WALltl SKS, 279 Wlioii witliiii five miles of Point Joy on tlie 28th tlie ship had idiiiidcd tho northwestern ])rolon!Ljfation of the paek, she was in eoin- ees w hull [lini:'. ;iiiil ip t'lirtlin ■llicr ;iii(i 'I'll lllClll. ss duh III' il Sldh I'lif i^i^ piirntively ojieii watt-r. ami in si^Iit of a siiiiiU l)ay which scciiicil to l)0 Hiii.ible for a harbor. Mall was disposeil to pnt into winter (jUaitrn'S 1-1 M I. ' II ■III 4, ■I i' 280 AMERICAN KXPLOllATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. hero and tlicii imsli forward toward tlic Pole l»y sledgos on the ice. Kiu an cxaiiiiiuitioii of tlie bay by hiiiisell' and Mate Cliester showed ilmt the water was not (juite deep enough ; the " J'ohiris" then resumed 1hi course. Steaming another hour tlirough the entrance of Kennedy ('li.in. nel she passed Cape Frazer, and running along the land at a distance nf iive miles, rapidly j)assed Capes Norton Shaw, MeClintock, and Lawrence. On tile '2\K\i Cape Leiber was distinguished on the western coast; mid at 1 I'.M. the ship entered a strait some twenty-live miles in width and worked her way slowly through it despite of the increasing thickness df the lines and the force of the currents. During the night and fcr sev«'r.d hours in the early part of the 80th, she was kept moving towaid the north, passing immense ice-iields which increased with the latitude. but at A.M. she had reached the norther:; li7nit. The ice was so cem- pact that it was impossible to force the vessel through ; it was lirm tVem one inast to the other; so far as the eye could penetrate the fog, tlieie was no open space to the north and no sign of an open passage. Hall was ill front of an impassable barrier. He liad, however, gaine(l a jioint \\hi(di his observations gave as 82° 20', lat. N. from whicii delci- minatiiiu the results of Mr. Meyer's careful computations dill'er hut ten minutes. THE DRIFT. Rut it became impossible to keep the "Polaris" at this point; she drifted from it with the current, and on the 30th Avas secured to a lai^o berg, with which she continued to drift southward until, on tlie ice opening somewhat, she was cast off and was headed for the eastern shore of the channel, where a harbor was promptlj sought. In this effort Hall was twice disappointed, and yet it seemed evident to all that it was useless to attempt to force a ])assage along the eastern coast of the channel. After a considtation with Uudington, Chestei. Tyson, and Dr. Bessels, he decided to make an attemjjt to get to ilic westward, but if unsuccessful, to seek immediately a harbor on ilie eastern coast of the strait. Dr. P>cssels had coincided with hini in this de(MS!on. in the hojie that a ])assage might be found toward the norili along the land on the west coast, where sledge-travelling in the n <\\^t •r i m ill 282 AMERICAN KXPLOllATIONS IN THK ICK ZONES. spring might bo inoio practiculjle. This was IlalTs great desin ik it had been tiiat of Dr. Hayes, who, however, as lias been noted, had i,nl,.,i in it ten years before. Mate Chester had given his opinion that they should save whiH advance liad been already made in plaee of risking a drift to the x.iiih. or, perhajis, a fatal imprisonment in the ice. Tyson, who had >|,(.|,i nnu'h of his time in the Crow's Nest, advised Hall to seek a IhhImm ;,^ soon as possible, and if the ice should be driven out of the chiiiiin 1. then start again further north. Ca[)tain Hudington had poiulcd (,||| the bay which he wished the vessel to enter, and ex[tressed hiuixli strongly as regards the dangers and dilHiculties of an attcm[)t to I'iikc ;, passage through the pack-iee to the west. The three oflicers urged thai the ship had done what she could; that the west coast could imt he reached ; that the young ice of winter had already begun to i'oriii. iind thiit there was great danger of losing everything unless immcdiahlv a sale anclu^rage should be secured. Hall's decision to go to the west seemed during the remainder (if the 81st to be fully justilied by the propitious state of the weatliei' ami the indications of open water to the north. The atnu)S|)liere w.is very clear, distinctly showing both shores (d' Kennedy Channel, \\lii( h api)eared t(j extend far to the north, the western shore the I'lmlKr north before its turning to the west. And the nu)st interesting >iL;lii was that of a dark-looking cloud skirting the horizon to the north ami northeast, and extending almost entirely across the o[)en si)ace lututin the two coasts. Some of the ship's company thought that this was a water-cloud indicating the existence of an open i)olar sea; others wnc certain that at different [)oints along the cloud they saw plain oiiilim- of land; a few recoginzed in the darkest shade near the linrizmi a water-cloud, but in the lighter portions, only a fog-baidc : and dtini- again contended it was a fog-bank resting against a mountainous (•(ia>i. and that where it occasionally opened they could distincth' see lnhi headlands. But, whatever may have been the true character of these ai»!Mai- ances, i)resented to the eyes of men whose excited and ardent t'eelint^s at such an hour must be ai)preciated by all, it was unfortunately llnir THK "I'nLAlIIS IN THK I'AOK. •2H^ ii T, uressiblo cdnsciousiicss tliiit thcro was no oi)oii wator iiroimd tlip vi-^cl; and from the niast-licad none could l)e seen excvjtt occasional pi ]Hii)ls. Altlioucfli the " Polaris " improved ever}' i»ossil)lt cliaiici' and (ilKiiiiig, she made but twelve miles in four and three '.|uarler houi's; i fy ' it 1 i i 'J if, 284 AIHERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN TIIK ICE ZONES. fi'l ; I ■'■I '.: i I! ilH' onl}' three of which were to the north. Her hii^fhest advance iqiiM, us to be sal'ely recorded at &2° IG',* about two hundriid miles iKirili ul Kane's liighest, and lit'ty miles above that reached by Dr. Hayes. In the lirst lour days of September the "Polaris" drifted t(, il,,. south, a distance of about forty-eight miles in a direct line. On il,,. 1st, the ice driven by the wind jjressea upon the ship so closelv that every man was ordered to houl himself in readiness to leave at an instant's notice; fears were entertained that damage would be doiu. to the propeller, the hoisting a[)paratus for which was placed in |i(,si- tion ; unsuccessful attempts were made to unship the rudder. At 7 r.M. a huge berg i)iled uj) masses of ice before the vessel and gatlicicd the smaller pieces about it; the hawsers bent to the ice-anchors in the lloe parted, and the ship heeled over. Twenty feet thicknos was pressing uj)on her creaking timbers with ice piled up to the bul- warks; stores and provisions were placed on the deck, and prt-jjaia- tions made for i)reserving life; but, two hours afterwards the shiji * It seems best to present here the language 'of Admiral Uavis, on this interesting point of the history. On page 84 of the "Narrative of the Xorth Polar Expedition." lie says, "It is impossible to tell the precise latitude which the ' Polaris' had attaiiii'd wlun at her highest northing. Eighteen hours before, her position had been accurately deier- niined; from that point her place was carried forward by dead reckuiung. Two separaic log-books were kept, in which the coiu'ses and' distances were correctly entered; two i)iitfnt logs wore used for the latter. Messrs. Bessels, Bryan, and Meyer, composing the scieiitilio corps, had kept regular watch from the departure of the ship from Tessuissak up to the time wlum her progress was arrested. They also kept a journal, in which were eiitereil the courses, and the distances (determined by one of the separate patent logs); and tlii.- was entirely independent of the ship's log-book kept by the mate. No better metlioil could have been adopted for securing all the accuracy possible imder the circumstances: yet the difficulties and interruptions in polar navigation are so unceasing and violent thai it is impossible to speak of results like these as being anything more than approximations to the truth. Again, on page 96, speaking of the ship's position after the renewed attempt to umk nortlnvard he says: "This advance placed the ship in lat. 82° 10' N.; a result deihuv,! from observations obtained independently of those which had given her position at (1 a.m. of August oO. The latter was deternnned by dead reckoning from noon of the preeedinL' day; the former started from the latitude of the southern entrance of liepulse llailmi; determined by Mr. Meyer, by a meridian sub-polar observation on June 30 of the next y. ar. This reckoning made up from this subsecjuent observation, takes into account the eouiM- and distances only without allowance for current or drift. Where so many lt'i'i'i"K ^'" sleds to the iloe snnicient stores and coal tf) supply the y. t: c wants of the ship's company during the winter. On the 3d the wind blurted to the southeast bringing with it much snow, but also the ap- .'1, :« I !■] 1^ ■» I ! 'Js»i AMKKICAN KXI'LOIIATIONS IN TIIK ICK ZoNKS. l»c'iiriUH.'0 when tliis luid clfiired (iff, of iiidiciitioiis tliat tlic ico w uM s(M»ii ttpt'ii Jiiid _!4iv(' aiiotliLT chance to secure a sate ant'hora^e ; un il,,. 4tli, the ice was eh'aied I'roin the prctpeUer well, tiie screw slii| |„i|. the stores ai^aiii hrctiight back iVi)ni the lloe, and the ship IIiumimIi a [lassaj^-e ojieiied by the drivin<^ northeast wind freed liersell" IVniu i],,. ice. Jiy luiihiii^ht slie was close in upon the eastern shore, and hri anchor was droj)]ied in ten lathoins of water. This was to \tr lap position for many weary months. wv Till-: IIAIIHOU. The liarbor at hist found was no snug ancliorage, but was insidr of the line of the main current and somewhat sheltered by a bold caiicin a distance of about four miles nortli and west of the shi[)'s place, — a (Mpc named by Hall after on(> of his lirst benefactors in Ciin-innati, ("oldiid .lames Lupton. ^\ hug(^ iceberg gave additional and lasting security. Its dimensions, measured b}' Hermann Siemens, were: length four hiiiKlivil and fiftv feet, breadtli thre(> liuudred feet, and heit'lit aJKVv! the wniii' sixty feet; under the usual estimate for bcMgs, this height being eomitt'd as one third of the whole structure, its foundation of one hundre(| iind twenty feet seemed promising of stability, and so proved even to the saving of the ship. Hall at once named it Providence Berg, lie hail now at liiast a strong security from being drifted further southward, and from being thus again imprisoned, or his ship crushed. Having submitted to the decision reached by a second consultation that :iiiy further northward advance was impossible, he promptly acknowledyrd the ]irovidential preservation which liad been given and the siuccssriil advance secured, and encouraged his officers and crew with the Iiojh.- in which he felt himsidf justilied in indulging that by sledge jouiin y.s to the north the great objects of the voyage could be entered iiiioii. First of all he would secure as far as possible present safety and rest for (d'licers and crew. A large (juantity of stores and ])rovisions were landed and tludr amount still further increased on the »Ith. on wliir'n di'v a search for a better harbor was unsuccessful. For this landiiiu two whaleboats with planks laid across were employed and the slmrt 4 k open the channel lutwfcn the ship and the short;. An op(!ning heing made through the iVo/.en slush the Observatory was taken over, s(!ctiou hy sec- tidu. Set up without the use of iron, it was available for magnetic (tliscrvations. From altitudes of the sun taken in the intervals between i»assing clouds, IFall deduced 01" 44'\V.as the longitude of his winter (juarters. 'I'licsc wer(! now improved by changes whicih provided for the ijcrthing (if tlic whole crew below deck, and for economy in fuel. 'J'o provide to tlic utmost for the cond'ort of the shi[)'s com]iany, he gave up his (iwii state-room. On shore a iiouse was built for tin; necessary entcr- taiiiiiicnts of the long Ar(!tic winter now cai-ly setting in. for the NS TO IUI»IN(iT(>N. liHl l„i(ii>. w lii<"li ciM'iimhcrctl liis walk, uiid (»c('iisi(iiK'il tlin;t' (liui^oimis I'alls ilii.iii'^h the ice lissiircs iiidi tin- sea. Ilryaii and M«'}('r rcj^aiiitd tin- ,|ii|, .liter iniiliii<^'lit in a state of eoniiilete exiianstion, and Mani-li's WUi was .^aveil (inly l»v a seaicli made l>y Mnitnn an*l Siemens, wlm I'lmnd liiiii ,iliiii>st nn'uiiMiniis. SIJ'.IXIK .KHIJNKV l'i;n|'(»si:i). At iii(H"nin«f prayers, ( )et(»iter 10, ('apt. Hall annouiieed liis inten- tiiiii nl'startinj^ that day U|ion a sledge trip, the oWjeet (d" which was to ivci'iiin'itie and select the best ruiite fur his sprinij journey toward the I'ldc lie had hoped to make this exandnation heforo the close of the hifviiiiis month, and was delaye(l (»idy liy tlu! snow heinj^ not ilccp ■lii]||'_;li lor s led-t ravel over the plain, and l>y the [ireparalions ncci h'd I'nr the jonnu'V, und for the new dangers which threatened the ship, sptcinhi-r -7, Jl severe gale from the southwest hud driven the pack ill. and fornu'd large lunnmocks on her sides, and on the liHth. when his pic|)arations had been made for leaving, the high tide in connection with a hi'ccze IVom the same ([iiartcr, again piled n|t the ici' in all man- ner o f si lapes. It 1 )ecame neeessarv to veer the cable. aiK d it \\\\> iium when lla- jiressnre ceased, that the berg had been forced in towards tla; vhdie one hundred yards, and tlu' shij) fifty yards. Had she not been siieeiallv fitted for arctic service bv the strengthening given befoi(; leaving the United States, she must have been crushed. During the two (lays which followed, mucli snow fell, the wind shifted to the iKtrtli, and an (tpeii channel was formed between the loose pack of the Strait and the floe at a distance from the vessel of about three-fourths of a mile. The ship being safe, and some necessary arrangements for the lit her preservation oi the stores and the coiiuort ol his men having made, Hall was readv to start nortli. To the Sailinu'-mar^ter he lieeii ;^iive s])eciHc instructions substantially as follows: — First, tV)r the conduct of the shi[). if she should remain safe in her winter position, of which he "felt almost certain," that she should be hanked u[) with snow-blocks cut from the drift under the lee of the neighboring hill, and have her housing ]»ut up; that the watch shuuld be continued until the coi>k commenced his mornin«'' work ; that the : . — _^^^^J^&B ' w^^^^^^Hb 1 * Hi i ^^H 1 ^^^^^H 1 :. i^^^^^^H '' I^^^^^^H ! Efl^^^^^^B ^^^^^1 i ^^^^^^H I^^^B I^^^^^^^H ■ . 'jfij 1 1 . 1 1 * » '1 t 292 AMEKICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. •i .V Js. most ciiveful economy should be practised in the consumi)tion of ci,;,] no more being used than would keep the thermometer fore ami all at oO" with a very small fire only througii the night, and caiuli,.- light nnly after 9 r. m., and that the remainder of the stores and provisions should be placed in complete order on the plain 1)\ ili,, observatory. But under the possible contingencj^ of the "Polaris" being ihivcn from her position, he wrote: "A full storm from the south can scml the pack of the Strait upon the land-pack upon which we are, and in a few moments cast the 'Polaris' high and dry upon the land: m. a storm from the North might drive the ice out of Thank God IIarl)i)r and tlie ' Polaris ' with it ; the spring tides must, therefore, be watclud with great vigilance, especially during any gale or storm. If tln' 'Polaris' should drift out, she must, if possible, be brought back to Iut former position ; but should she be driven into the moving pack-ice (if the Strait, and there become beset and unable to get released, then, uiitnr- tunately, the vessel and all on board would goto the soutliwest, driftinn; with the pack, — God only knowing where and when the ship's company would find means to esca[)e. It might in this case be that such a drilr movement would occur as in the case of the United States Grinncll Expedition of 1851-52, and of the ' Fox " under McClintock in 1857-1"^ : but wlienever the 'Polaris' should get released, if anywhere between Cape Alexander and Ca[)e York, or between the latter and the Aretit Circle, she might then make her way to Godhavn, Disco Island, and. if she should remain seaworthy, be filled up with coal, stores, ami provisions, and next fall (1872) steam hack to this jjlaoe. If tlie vessel should become a wreck or disabled from the imminent exi^osurc ainl dangers of such an ice-drift as referred to, then all possil)le use of ilic best judgment must be brouglit into play for the preservation of tlu' lives of all belonging to the Expedition." "You will, at your earliest moment of escape, acipiaint the (inv- ernnicnt of the United States with the whole of the circumstances: ami should one of those circumstances be the loss of the 'I'olaris,' I, am! my small party that is about to accompany me on the proposed sledge journey, will remain here to make discoveries to the North Pule, HALL S LAST SLKDGE JOUIINEY. 293 usiiiu' Tliank God Harbor as our liciuLiiuirtins, and all tho tiinc feel , ,.it;iiii that our country would lose no time in seiuling us aid in earry- iiio- (Hit the • I'oluris." hall's last dispatch. ( )ii the 20th he had deposited in a eaini, of whieh tlie cut is a literal traiiscri])t from the sketch in his notes, a dispatch to the Se( retail of the Navy, whieh is presented below in full, as the last ever reecivcd from fir i)re 'ired b}^ the unfortunate explorer. Conununicatiiiy- it. he said : •'Chester at my suggestion took one of the boards of the twenty- eight jiound wooden box, that I ordered to be taken apart last evtiiing TJ PI iW'^'^m>mMmm TUK CAHtN. n. tmriod cyliiulor; C, condensed niilk-cunistcr, filled with saiidi I), two pound meat-can; E, small watcr-trcncli ; A. I aim. 10 F. K. This stone of slate placed at A in the ground, face up, close to the one above, which is vertical. Knii 1111(1 J Cape Hri'voort (^y. 50 E?) iiulistiuot J Sixtli eiicampiueiit distant 43 of light. ' my iiioiisuros. (N. 15 K.) m I ■ (a couple of pounds of wliich we used last night in making scouse (lob- scouse or olio), and six (piarts of extra water), and with his knife, cut in bold letters, '10 F. E.' (feet east), and this and thirteen other piccfs of tliat box were scattered about the cairn. It was not without ditli- culty that we found stones of sufficient size and number with which to build tills small pillar. Joe dug the hollow in Avliich to dejiosit tlic copper cylinder. Tliis cylinder was one of those specially (lesi«;ii('i| for deposits, and was rendered air and water tight by being scaliil with Avhite bees-wax; at the bottom I ])laced a small piece of Ijnaril. then on either side two other pieces; and, last, on the top, aiidtlici : then we covered the same over with three inches of shingle of tlic plain."' .,— ^ HALLS LAST DlSl'ATCH. "i" e following is the clis[);itcli: — 295 " Sixth .Sxow-IIoi'sk Enc.vmpmkxt, Cwv. Bisf.voort, *' Norlh-sitle cntniuce to Ncwiiiau's l>uy, Oct. 20, 1S71. »7'm f/ie Honorable SecreUinj of the U. S. yatu/, Gkouhk M. Uouksox. •• .Myself and party, consisting of Mr. Chester, first-mate ; my Eskimo, Jiic, and Greenland Eskimo, Hans, left the ship in winter (j^uarters. Thank God Harbor, hit. Hl° 88' North, h)n. Gl° 4-4' West at meridian of Octdlx'r 10th, on a jnnrney by two sledges, drawn by fonrteen dogs, to (li.^cdver, if possible, a feasible route inland for my sledge journey next s])rii),i;' to reach the North Pole, jjurposing to adopt such a route, if foiiml better than a route over the old Hoes and huinnioeks of the strait which I have denominated Robeson's Strait, after the honorable Secretary of the United States Navy. •• AVe arrived on the evening of October 17, having discovered a lake and a river on our way; the latter, our route, a most serpentine one, which led us on to this bay fifteen minutes (miles) distant from here sniiihward and eastward. ••From the top of an iceberg, near the mouth of said river, we could si'f that this bay, which I have named after Rev. Dr. Newman, extended to tlic liigh land eastward and southward of that position about fifteen miles, making the extent of Newman's Ba}', from its headland or cape, full tliirty miles. "The south cape is high, bold, and a noble headland. I have named it Sumner Headland, after Hon. Charles Sunnier, the orator and U. S. Senator; and the north ca|)e, IJrevocn't Cape, after J. Carson Brevoort, a .strong friend to Arctic discoveries. "On arriving here we found the mouth of Newman's Bay open water, having numerous seals in it, this oi)en water making close both til Sumner Headland and Cape lirevoort, and the ice of Robeson's Strait on the move, thus debarring all possible chance of extentling our jiuii'iiey on the ice up the S rait. "The mountainous land (none other about here) will not admit of "Uf jnurneying further north; and as the time of our expected altsence was understood to be for two weeks, we commence our return to- iil •ill . n n^l ^f it mm « , -i M •J! 1(5 .\Mi;i;i('\N I'Ai'LouAi'ioNs IN rill'; ici', /om'.m. moiiow iiKtriiiiig. To-iliiy \\c iiic sdu in lioiind In (liis our si\i! riiiii|iiiiiMit. I'll l"'ioiii (';i|i(' nrcvttorl. we r:\ii sec liiixl cxIcMdiiii;' dii llic \\i ,| |,|, of llic Stiiiit III ilic iHUlli •_'-" W'l'sl, iiikI (listiMicc iiliniil seven llnis iniikiii''' liiini \\»' discoNcr as I'ar as lal. S;l' ."» N<»rlli. \ III lies. There is a|i|>earanee of lainl I'arlh'.r innlli, jiikI e\leniliii;< lllliK easterly tlian what I lniV(> jnst iniled. Inil a. jiemdiar tlaik iiiinlMis i'IhkI lianas over wlia't seems inav Ite land, and |nevenls my makiiii; i lull detei'inination. AiiLinsl ;!(•, tlie ' I'dlaiis ' made lier <'realesl iiorlliiiiL!', lal . S: < -till Ni'illi ; Inu ailei' several allem|tls lo _t;'el lier I'ai'llier nnilli, slie I M'i;niic liesel. w lien we w •re drifled down lo aliont lal. Si" ;;o'. \\'| leli nil openini;' oeenned, we sleaiiied mil ol" llie pack and ma. where liie ' I'olaiis " is (corner ol" mannseript heie IhiumiI oil ). rp lo the lime I and my |>arly lel'l. Ihe r;lii|) all have lieen ucll. and eonlinne wilh lii!_;'h hopes ol" aeetnnplishiiit;' oiir ni'ealniission. "We tind ihis a nuieh warmer eoimlry Ihan we expected. I'"iiiiii ('ap(> AlexandiM'. the inounlaiiis on eilhei' side of Iho luMinedy ('liamicl :ind iuihcson's Strait, we round entifelv l>are ol" snow and ice, wii I I ill' e\cei>tion ol" a n'lacicr that wi> saw covei-iiiL;', aiiont hit. Sd" ;')()', easi siiic the Strait, and extendin!;" in an east-noftheasl direction as lar as can \v seen Irom the moniitaiiis by I'olaris \\.\\ . '* \N'e have found that tlh< counlry ahonnds with life'; seals, L;ainr. ijoese, diii'ks. musk-cat lh>, rahl'its, wolves, foxes, l)ears, parti id^vs, Icmuiinu's, i>te. Our sealers \\a\c shot two seals in the open water while at this tMU'am|)ment. Our loni;' .\rctic ni;;lit commeiuH'd ( )cl ohcr \.\, 1 lavine- seen only the upjier limh ol the sun aliove the glacier ,i nuMidian Oct(d)i>r 1 'J. "This dispati'h to the S(>cretavy of the Navy I linislicd this nioiiicni. S.il:> P.M., liavine- written it in ink in our sjiow Init, the iheriiioiiii'iri' outside - 7'\ Y(>sti'rtlay. all day tlu> thenuonu'tcr — 20" lo "J)!'. "Copy o[' dispatch placoil in jiillar l"5rev()()rt Capi', Octol )cr 1\ 1S71, ' • TliP oritfiiiul draft of this (lisiiatch was liroiiiiht to Washington by Eskimo .hx', who had carofiilly picsiTvoil it in Hall's writiug-di'sk, wliich he had lUckcd \'p on the icf alter \\r:;| ,1,1,. 'iil.\ miles, iliii!' iiHii,' lIlllS cloinl ,iiiu- ;i lull 'ills, ^'iiini'. i;iftri(li;vs, It'll wahT (I OcIoImt ^'lacier ,il s inoiiH'iil. riiKitiK'ii r <'AI'TAIN MAM, I'A KAI,V/KI», 2!»7 \i '.i.IOa.m. Ill' i'niii|ilt'li'(| till' I'iiini iiiMJ (Ii'|ixpeditidn, nil his reluni to ('ineiiUiali at its eldse, and while pre|)ariii[r to sail in llic " Pdlaris." Twd attacks had heeii tlmse dl" verlij^d. 'Ihe severe siraiii dl" mimi Id which he siihjecteil hiiiiseir, tidupled with the dis- nio .IiK'. ^vlut tlu' ice at'liT ilii' .-^'•iiii iMlioii (if till' dot' ](iiity Iruiii llic " I'liliiris," Octohcr 15, |S"-J. A ))li()t(i-litli()L;i;ii>li will III' foinid ill tin; sfcoml iMlilioii tjf tin; " i'oliiris "' voliiiiii', issiii',1 iiftcrliii- (ji'iilli of tlif lull' Ailmiral Davis. 'lilt! (lispatcli (Ifpositctl ill tin; cairn was found l)y Dr. (.'oiipin^'cr of Ur- I';iij;lisli Aiitic i'.xjii'ditioii, May \'>, 1S75, and sent with olhtir nilics 1j> tlic IJritisli Ailniirally to the riiilril Stall's (;ovi;rnnn'iit. tn n tp I \m H •J'.is AMi:i;i('AN" Kxri-oiiA rin\s in i'iiI'; we zonk .1 1 1] )( lint men t i'\|n'i'irn<-('(I by his licini;- alth; to mala' no rurther noi ihiii.r^ anil the (•oiiscionsncss tlial nn one n[' the lictcront'in'ous partv (Hi 1im;i|i| till' '• Polai'is " had snilicicnl sympathy with his ohjccts to nlicsc iiji,, iVom tilt' greatest ri'S]ionsil)ililit's, wore in all [irohahility the imnndi.nc ocras ion ol' the I'atal ii'sult. At till' t'losc of an extended imjuiry, made Dee. L*t». IST ). i>\ leiMiest of the Seei'etarv oi' the Na vy, Snri;('on-( leneral IJarnes. ^.^..\. and SuruiMiii-Cienera d IJeale, C.S. N., alter tl le retnrn ol .lie shn I > idiii- jiany. Dee. 2t», 1S7'>, eertilied that, after listeidn;^ to the lestini(.ii\ ,i|' Di'. I'x'ssels with n'reat care, and jinttin^' to him snt'h ([Uestions as wciv . iLcv were eonclnsively of the ojiinion that ('aj)tain Hall died IVom naliir,i| (Rinses. — viz., apoplexy, and that the treatment of the ease was the hot |)raetieal)le under tlu; eirenmstanees. [Ifeport of See"v Navy for l.'^T-I.J The body of Cajitain llall, after l)ein;4' prejiared I'or burial. \v;i> cuNcred with the national Hat''. A party under Mate Cliesti'r sent on shore to dii;' the niaNc ^l|(■- ceeded after the fat i^'uiiin' eflbrts of two days in exeavatini^' the tVu/cii y'round to a depth of Iwenty-six inches — -the seat of pi'rmaiienl lVu,,i. "It was daytime, but all darkness there at that season,*" the di:;'. beint;- done hy the li^'ht of lanterns. At 11 A.M. ol' Novendier l. l',\ I lie 11)1 S ciilii- tiiiiiiii\ III' IS ilS WCIV •liiilcil liv 'SSCS. I lii'V 11 lllllill'.ll S till' Ili'Sl 'or 1n7."1.J iriiil. was riivc >\\v- \\r Ini/.i'ii III rrii.>i. . the rial piM- an'iiiii In- ml was I'iMil iiV iIIIkIs iif ]|rllllili^- (' nlijcct l)(Mlltlii|i cliict'iif : is (Mir ' r II in ; I ■ I i t I ■ I 300 AMKinrAN KXPLORATIDNS IN THE ICE ZONES. honest inteiitiri)iN(;T(iN. "Emil Hessels." The severity of the long Arctic winter showed its beginnings Ik inn the middle of .Noveud)er. On the 18th and the two followin<'' (lii\>. ;i gale from the iu)rtheast blew Avith the violence of nearly lifty iiiih^im hour. Ileruumn Siemens, a very strong man, while making his usual tidal observations was literally taken up by the storm and thrown upnn the ice, and the shi[) itself was driven over on one side, her sudw wall being sliosed out and broken. Dr. IJessels and ]Mr. Meyer were rtxucil by llnuy and Joe from the greatest danger on their return from ohsi r- vatory duty. The Eskimos knew better how to battle with the stiuui wind. At the Observatory, the Anemometer's caps v/ere wiiiiliii'^ round at amazing s])eed, indicating while it was possible to stand \>>\\>_^ enough betV)re the wind to read, a velocity of from fifty to sixty niilr>. The creaking of the nuists and the howling of the wind, together with the darkness, increased b}' a lieavy drift of snow, made the day one again secured to Providence Berg. She drifted against the nmih- eastcrn side, and her stern was exposed to the attack of the llocs. hut by a narrow chance she iiad been saved from being carried out intn the channel to drift south. Five days afterward, a gale from the southwest broke the lici;^' itself into two parts, and the ice forced in between them, sei)aratiii^ them by a distance of eight feet ; at midnight the two parts were tuinid to be in motion, the smaller one moving more rapidly. The stron^vst man now held his breath, for it really seemed that the ship nuisi \tv TIIK '• l'(»I,Ai;iS .\(;AI\ in DANCiKlI. 301 P,ii«liril, and it was tlKmylit several times tiiat the ice had l)eoii forced thii ;.;h her si(h'; hut wlieii she ei ine in euiitaet with the lieri,' a hir^e V. tmii^ue of ice beU>w Avith liie lu'l[) of tlie wind raised iier hdw with a I. lilt. ''This probably saved her/' Siemens says: "Had tlie ice on i \\i '.o-j .\Mi;i;ir.\N i;\ri,oi;A ri(»Ns in iiii; ici: /,<»nks. I III' Ice sidr ol' t lie lit ml',' licfii iis si i uii;^- ;is 1 1 ml nii tin- \\ iM I iicf si(|, . il,,, slii|i w mild sih'cIn \\a\v lircii ciil I lir(Mii;'li ur lliiiiwii dii lirr liriiiiirinU " ( >ii I lie J! '1 1 1 t lit' Im'I l; nil i\ 1(1 in luw ;ii(ls slim r. >lin\ in;; I lir •• I'nl.n i^'- lM'tnii' il. iiinl ;il lliri'i'iii llir iiinrninL;', lirml\ l;'Ii'Iiiii1('iI : :iiii| ihw ,|,|||. HITS ;i|i|ir;ii('il W lien I lie title IrlK I'tir i lie sliTIi nl' I lie \fssr| sunk. Ir.n n,,,' llir liDW I'liiir j'l'ft lii^liiT: slit' iilsu lifflcil i>\ri' III |iiiil sii niiii'li lli.n n \\;is iiii|iiissili|f III wiilk till (Ink ; lull when llif liilf rusr, llif .slii|i , n,,,. Ill ;iii i\rii krt'l. Tlii' lVii;li(i'iifil Mskiiiins liuili two siinw -linii-i ( n sliiMt' 111 li\ (' in. I Jut llif " I'lihiris," iill Imii^li niiirli si riiiiiril. w ,is .i';,iiii sii\ III. ;iiiil lilt' slii|i"s ciiniiiiiny (■(•It'liriilfij llic :'.I li, opf ii wain \\,i> iilisfiM'd Iwn nr tlircf iiiilfs ilistant : (his was the |ifritid nl' "s|iriii;;-." Ill llif niiddlf III" llif iiiiHilli, llif " I'tilaris "" lalxircd ni'fall\. ilir (TfakiiiL;' t'l' lie r I iiiilit IS as slif iiitivfd up and dtiwii against llic Ikt'.;- sniiiidfd like \iill '^ s III' iiiiiskf I ly, aiitl the licrv;' ilsfll' wliifli was tnii- liimilly iirfakiiit;' in pifffs, [irfssftl innrf Itiwartl llii' ship. I ItiiiiiiKicks w tMc pilfd lip III llif lifii;ii( nf tliirly left alxivf llif sea Icvfl, and ilir fi'l'fft ft' llif ftiiistaiil pri^ssurf was In raise thf vfssfl slill liii;lifr, m.ik- iiiLi' lifi' fniitlititiii iimrf iiiisal'f and uiuMuiil'iirialilf . Thf siuiw wall liv w I'.ifii shf hail liffii siirrdiiiidfd having' lu'cii carrifd awav wlicii sin lunkf adrift, thf lu'ilhs Wfif now luufli fnlilfv. The llic niitniif I (Ts Mil linard no Imie't'i' auTfcd with llinsf ol" thf tilisfi'vatnry. ()ii thf 'J-'itli. aiii(iii!4' thf iititfs (if his jtnirnal. ("ajilain Uudi ll''li'lL a \ s W ai'f ill liy iiti uifaiis a salt' ptisilinn. llic (laiiL;i ■r tli.il tlii'falfiis us is iVti'ii llif Sfasidf. ami this in the ftiriii nf SdUlliw est L;a'ii'. ill fdiiiif f t i(Mi with spiiiiLi,' lidf? which may push llif m'sscI I'lirllifi ;ii hdi't'. Mif will ilifii liavf (iiil\- twti f liaiiffs. f illif !• Iti rfsisl tlie in'f-^ ;l th UTf ^A' thf lifiL!: i""l hi'fak llif land iff, ali'fadv thr(H> feet Ihifk nr im' •nir. " rni.AiMs i\ n \\(;i;i; \\o:\ y sid . 11 1 • lllll r .11 i^ •• llcU ll.ll 1- ik. I.' l\ 11 '4' I'll 1 ll.ll It >lli|i ' 1 II ' ■ Imiis r • ( ll w ,l> ■i':.iiii iiil\>ui\ ii '^' lIliT. 1^7 1. Ill r i.iii'_ ;■• l.lc 1 •> il IC >('i'i;i 1\ . ll \r ili ^' 111 ll- wall )• W l> sprii)--.' vail. \. 1 II' til. lir ■'-;■ 1 \\a ■; (1 11- IlllllllllM' .. K ami 1 ir ;lirr ma k- w w all iV will 11 s ,r llH'l ('r> III ;iiii ii-t 111 1 1 u't ' V ll ,ll wcs t -.1 ir. 'iirl irr ill the piV ,.- ick ■ir ll,' ,,,iiii, In lilted ii|i niil III" llir water."' Tuiidavs al'terwaiij an at teiii|.t \\,|., iiiaile tu IVee tjie ve^>el li\ e \ | ilud i le.;- Iniii lai'^c eliai'je> mJ' vUli- |iii\V(|{'r ill dil'lcrciit jilaecs imt far iVdiii the shiji's side. Uiit this did Jiiit even crack the lee. The Captain expresses his regret that the shiit It. J ;{i)4 AMKUK A.N KXIM^OHATIONS IN TIIK ICK ZONKS. ,1 ' ■i 111 liiul not hi'iMi iiiiclKHi'd ill Nowinaii's liny, wlicrc. lie licllcvcd, lici' |i(.>i. tidii would liiivc Im'cii iiiidistmlx'd in winter tion of Novcndx'i-, and this, notwitlistamliii^' tlic utninst t'cnnomy I'Xcicist'd. Hudinj^ton said : — "If tlio I'onsnniption of this fuel is cniitiiiiu'd at the same rale. ;, stoppai^r of whicli, without cndanj^i'rin^' (HW licalth, is nut pussilth . w,. will hardly have enough loi' twn winters, to say nothing of usini;' ^iciiin on our I'ctniu. The idea of |iil»)tin^' the vi'ssol through Smith Smnnl with the aid of sails is an ahsurdity. Without considcrin*;' tlu; salcu of tilt' vessel, the expeHeuees (if both Kaiu' and Hayes are sullieieni in show that a sailing' vessel, and esitei'ially one likt^ ours, can dd alisn- lutoly nothing-. 'I'he lirst opportunity, however, we j;'et to leave this winter harhor will he taken, and with the aid of steam or sails, as vuw- ditious pei'unt us, we will attempt to ri-aeh a hij^her latitude, so as tn onahle us to carry out tlu; ol)jeets we ai'e sent for." The further pro- vision then ma(h) for redueiiiti; the consumption of coal saved a thuii- saud j)oumis during each of the months following. January 1(1, 1872, twilight was visible at S A.M., and the shi[)*s ((uu- pany he^an to look forward to the time wlien active spring work niit>;lii begin. As the sunlight increased, it was seen that long conlineiiicni had brought a j^'culiar pallor to the face, but this a few days of cnii- tinuous lii«ht mi'' '. "estore. No case of sickness had occurred; not the slightest form of scurvy. Judicious disciidine had saved the streiij^tli and health of the company, who had been kept warm and coud'ortaMi'. fed upon carefully prepared st(U'es, supplied daily with lime-juice, aiid presi'rved from despondency b_y full recreation and voluntary exercix'. 'I'he car[)entei' was occupied in building sledges for transporting ilic boats on a northern journey as soon as the season opened. ( )ne nt' these was fourteen feet long and two and a half feet between the ciii- tres of the runners, which were ten and a half inches high and liml fourteen cross-bars fastened to them by lashes of raw-hide, which thus gave them a jjlay of about six degrees — a great advantage in carryini;' a heavy load over rouoh ice. VISITS TO CAl'K Ll'l'TON. — OI'KN WATKU. 30o l?NllilHlil i|;j 1 ciirrviiiu' Scvoi'iil visits w'iivv inadi! to Cape liii|it()ii iiiul the points in its vicinity, to h'arn the stati' of tlu' id'. On tlio ITtii, Tyson and Joe v\, ic at tlie ca[»e at nieridian, when th(! twilight was brightest. No w.iiri' was to l)e seen, the stfaits hcing eovered with young iee, not .siri.iig i-noiigii i(» ht-ar their weight, mixed with large iloes ol" a reeent (jiilt ; toward the western coast «>r the ehannel was a low cloud of fresh s ke. On the llHli, Kruger and .lanika, two of the crew, reached a Midiid eajie with a team of t-ight dogs. From a height here of about (tne liiimht'd ieet above the sea-level a large amount cd' open water api)eared (Xiciiding northward as far as eould be seen, to a distance estimated uiidci' tlu! bfight moon to be twenty miles. The hummocks and l)ergH li.ni ilisapi»eared and a new field of ice covc^red tlie waters. On the libh Dr. liessels, with two (d" the seamen, went to a third cape to examine this rejiorted open water, and (»n the 28th Mate (^hester again inspected it, linding a current (da ndle an iiour toward the north. The existence of this open water was regarded as favorable to boat journeys ill the spring. Tliese were the subjec^t of fre(^uent discussions during the remainder of this month and of February. Dr. IJessels subndtted to Cai)tain Hudington a phm of operations t'(ir the spring journey, in which he discussed the two ways of accom- plishing the object of the Exjjedition ; either by boats and the vess(d licrsclfor by sk'dges as at first proposed. The setting out of a boat party, he said, which might start the hist of Marcli or the beginning (if Aj)ril, would depend entirely upon the area of open water and its probable continuance. One of the smaller boats should be taken with as many provisions, instruments, and small stores as would be necessary, and the boat party should follow up the eastern side of the strait, survej'ing the land and making investigations in regard to the currents and deep-sea soundings, the last of these being of the highest importance ; for, except those made by Ross in 1818, there were but a few others, — some taken by Inglefield and two by Kane. For the best additional results to be secured he recommended that, (luring the time which must elapse before a northern journey could be begun, sledge parties should be formed to penetrate into the interior of the country, learn its configuration, deterndne astronomically the longi- ri i '«i » III \\ ^ '! > |: .p: , ^^Mi i tL 306 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. ■ '^^!i tude of Morton's furthest i)oint, and re-survey the coast-line of Griiinell land, deturniiniiig, if j)ossible, how far it extends from east to west. As the sledge ])arties would be compelled to travel over a jKmr country and make large distances, the difficulty of providing dog teams suggested the probable necessity of depending almost exclusively uium men for dragging them. All the parties would build cairns, dt'iiosit records ; and whenever practicable signallzv? by tlags and smoke, the "■ Polaris '" firing a gun several times a day. February 4, the twilight Avas now so bright that any kind of \)vu\\, from fine diamond up, could be easily read. A spectrum was for the first time observed. Stars of the first magnitude could be clearly seen, Mauch thus records an observation of a meteor: "At 4.30 p.m. when making my observation, and just attempting to read the ane- mometer, I observed in the east, above the range of hills, a bright meteor, slowly moving in a southerly direction toward the ground, at an angle of 45°. Its height when I first saw it was the same as that of Procyon. It was of a light-bluish color, resembling closely in its Avhole appearance, the blue light that falls from some kinds of rocket, when they burst in the air. Before it disappeared behind the hills, ii left a few sparks behind, which, however, were soon extinguished. Its size was that of one of the stars of the first magnitude." A very fine auroral display was witnessed in the evening, the move- ments of which were complicated and the spectacle very impressive. The sky showed at first a slaty appearance to the northwest, with occasional luminous streamers. At 7.15 that quarter of the heavens was of a l)lood-red color, while faint white streamers sprang up in rapid succession, increasing in numl)ers from the west, north, and northeast; all of them directed to the zenith, and the outward ones bending In- ward. The structure was that of a dome. Then they all vanisluMJ. giving place to others which rose from a wider extent of the horizon. At 8.30 new and very bright streamers toward tb.e zenith gatheivil about it till they formed a corona. Next, all moved northward Mitii a motion of between six and seven seconds to a decrree. The corona opened, forming a beautiful curtain of an intense color between yellnw and white ; and at 9.30 another corona formed itself of new streamers AUllOUAS. — PENDULl M KXI'KKIMKNT. 3(^7 (•i.iiiiii<:f up in every direction. The display lasted all the night of the 4tli. and continued with slight interruittion through the 5th. Tlie red eiilor of the sky moved around and was last seen in the east, disappeur- iiit;' ill the southeast, riio temperature during the first half of Decendjer liad ranged liigh, the lowest being 24°; during the last half /..e mercury was at -JH"; .hiiiiiary 9, the thermometer read — 48°. During February, the highest iccorded was — 07, the lowest — 43° 5'. ( )ii the 29th, Captain Budington acknowledged the receipt of Dr. licssils' plan of work, and advised him tliat the expedition to the north would probably proceed by the aid of boats, in which case it was his intention to take the command; but that it appeared to be useless to (diiu', as yet, to any conclusion as to this journey or the i)roceedings of the ship. During the winter montlis scientific observations were diligently kt'pt up ; tidal observations, as well as the meteorological, were re- oonnnenced soon after the storm of November 21. Moon culminations were made by Mr. Bryan with the transit instrument, and experiments with the pendulum were begun January 2. Dr. Bessels gives the fol- lowing account of his " PENDULUM EXPERIMENT." '• 'J'he pendulum is an invariable, reversible brass pendulum, of live tVi't 7.75 inches in length, and very near synchronous, but not convert- il'le. It is swung on steel knife-edges, and suspended iu a box of strong board with a glass door. In order to disconnect the instrument as far as ])ossible from the small building in which it was swung, a Sv^uare hole was cut through the floor in the middle of the western wall of tlie oiisorvatory. Underneath this opening a, heavy piece of timber was iViizfii solid to the ground. A^^ the floor of the hut did not rest directly oil the soil, but was placed on beams of oak, the plank mentioned be- fore was entirely isolated from the observatory and became as firm, under the influence of the low temperature, after the course of a few (lays as the frozen soil itself upon which it rested. On this piece of tiiuher the pendulum-box was screwed in such a manner thr.f the plane JU^^^^, l^'U ■[ : u 308 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. ' I m i:l •ti* ivt- • r II' I r -I ■t in which the pendulum was swung was tliat of the meridian, ami jn order to secure the utmost steadiness a barrel was placed outside ihy observatory on the same plank on which the pendulum-box rested. The barrel was surrounded by a heap of gravel, which was moistpiied with water in order to cement it in a solid manner to the plank. After this was done a hole was cut through the wall of the observatory Ix'- hind the place where the pendulum-box was fastened. A. haU-iiicli iron bar, bent at right angles, was passed through this hole, and one end of it was fastened to the back wall of the box by means of live screws. The other end, which was about three feet over the centre of the barrel outside of the observatory, was screwed to a three-inch iron bar set up nearly perpendicular in the keg. "After having accomplished the work so far, the barrel was (illed with gravel and sand, over which was poured some water. Before tlie mass was frozen hard we levelled the pendulum-box as nearly as could be done, and when it was found to be tolerably level, the bar outside was fastened by means of ropes to the wall of the observatory, in order to prevent it from giving way and disturbing the position of ilie box. After two days had elapsed, the gravel was frozen solid and the ropes were removed. It was found that the box had not changed its level ; but at the same time, it was not so steady as might have been expected. To secure it better, a hole of three inches' diameter was drilled through the floor of the observatory about one foot north of the box, and another one of the same diameter and at the same distance south of it. Through each of these holes an iron bar, one inch thick and three feet long, was driven into the frozen soil and connected with the box by means of two other iron bars bent at right angles, siuiilar to the one mentioned above, and screwed together in a similar manner. '' The vibrations (performed in the plane of the meridian) were observed with a small direct-vision telescope placed about eight feet east of the arc of the pendulum. The point of the swinging knife-edge served as a mark, and observations were made with vibrations from right to left (north to south) and from left to right to correct for eccentricity of mark. Each set wae begun with the right. An arc of a circle of 39.25 inches' radius, divided from the middle each way to live AURORAS. — PENDULUM EXPERIMENT. 309 degrees, with subdivisions of tenths degrees, was phieed over the swing- ing knife-edge, and the extreme excursions to the right and left noted. The times were recorded by a sidereal chronometer, which wa?. compared with iive other box chronometers by means of a pocket clironometer l)t I'dre and after each set of observj'tions was taken. Tlie pondu- luiii was swung in four different positions designated by tiie number .siaiiipcd on the rod near tlie knife-edge ; the numbers one and t\.'o being on one side, and three and four on i:ie reverse. The steel plates upon wliich the knife- edge rested were lev- •^ elled by a small spirit »' g- level every tune he- ^ g fore the set was be- gun, when the door cf the bo?; was closed and kept f,hut till the w set was finished." =•2 oi;2 Auroral displays 3 £|! had been of freiiuent occurrence through the season. Decem- ber 29, luminous streamer^' were seen extending in an arch throutih the zenith from northeast to sculhwest. January 0, beautiful displays were seen nearly all day. When the sky was clear and the breeze light from the bt)uth, lumi- nous clouds extended themselves from the southwest in the form • if an arch. Fantastic forms of light came and went rapidly, and tlicre were bands of yelK)w and white. Again on the lOtli, narrow l)iight strips ran up into an arc which passed from the western hori- zon through the zenith to the east, parallel with tlie milky way, and distant from it about twelve degrees; at the same time luminous streamers of a greenish hue slidt up Irom the east. Like appearances " M 1- . 1 gpi ■ '■ w "^ I i 1 \te i I v.i ^•^ .ill' vmi.khvn r\n oi; \ noN.-; in nil' ir|.: /omim. prrscMli'il t licm^clx cs mi llu' li'lh. Illli. .'iml l<>(li. ,\l llir;!- ilh|.li\>, lli(' in:hMnl.iuH'(tM- \\;IM \\o{ plisrivcil li\ Mr. I»iviiii In show iiii\ iii,nL,| dcllrt I mil . On till' nii'iiiiii); "I l'"rlMii;ir\ ;'!. sdiiic \i'r\ ImmiiI iliil pai umI. n.. W (M I' I'li-^-i ivt'tl ; (lii> I liri niiMiiclcr \\;is ;'.(' lu'low /.cm \l nirll liiiiili I 1 Mill show 11 (Ml ( Iir prri'iMliiii; | t;HM' i;i rri.N ni nii' ^in. 0\ 1 ilic JMh I'l I'lhi ii;ir\ (I lie ol' ( lie liii|i|ii('st (l;i\ s w ;is ('\ piMiiii ic sun woulil l>i' M'iMi nlliM- ;in iilisciirp ol I'lic liniiijini iiiiij lliirl\ \\\, I .'\ 1 'I .1 tl;i\s. and 111 an (>ail\ lunu all liaiid'^ were on llic IohImmiI, l>(Mili('d (Ml llir liMt'li'it ol llio *' I'olai is." ol liiMs on llio lo|> ol I' diMi. .' HiM!',- Al ' '••'•' :i small poilion ol' llic ii|'|M-r limit was .scrn lew moiuiMils iluoiioli a !^or!<;r in llic moiinlain. and al III. I.) (lie w Imlr oil> siiddtMih appcaii'd tVom 'n-liind ('ape I'xsoii and rolled in lull "1m|\ o\( 1 ilio sonilii'in lio'.i' ( 'lii'cr alirr cliccr wcnl n|> lioni llu- ('o!ii|i,ni\ , liitMiuMi l(M|Mn!V and itimi>in:v ahoiil w il li crirs ol' " ( )|i ! Iiow warm n i-,, Ih- lias noi ror'>otitMi ns."" I Ic conliniiril al>o\r (lie lioii.on lill .1 r \| A l^Mlle ol wnu' was -'ivcii to oarli ol ilio crew, and rivard Ics di i iMUed an loii'- 1 ho moil loi w ail April I. 1 !■• rai'lain ol i lio " I'olai is ' (M'.'ani/od ( w o lioals" i n'\' . i. in ilu' ('\plovat ion as soon as llio ;lato o\' tli (■ ice w oiild piTiii Mato 1 Mir-'toi and Assisiant N i\i',;aloi' I \ son w oro jMacod rrs|irrin(l\ m ^^>mn1and. Pr. Ui'ssels and Mr. Mcvor liciii;"' oaoli second willi Imn si-anuMi. O 1 lU'l s W (>!(' ^1 \ cn llial the Imals and crews lie rcad\ {< > si, II I tlu' IoiIowiul;' month, and in aeiordain'c with the sii!''!.''<'sl ions w lni lia\e iN'eu name leoi'c ( Mirne\ s \\ ere iii t he iiiean t iiiie ma Mr 111 dilV. VtMH poinis. (){' one of these Maneh remarks: " 1 have lieeii \\\< In ('ape I.npton. (omparine- lla\es' "Open I'olar Sea " ol' the I'.Mli ol' M.i\. ISiil. wu! tlu' present one. Tiic straits present a \ asl volunie nl unpcuiMrablc p;iek with not a speek of open water."" 'The teiiipciai me was s till too low Tor the hoiit ionruevs. 'I'liis state y^f tl ii> me colli iiiiir w itli little intermissiiMi until thcTth ol' .luiie. when on a I'avoiahle rop>nl iVom C,\vc l.u]Uon (dicsttM'"s crew was sent thither, 'rvsoiTs al >;\'ini;" lovw m\\ on llu iicM ilav. 1>IU. tin Ihi' I 1th. Mate Cjiesl cr w. HI, IN "iiii, iii'i N pni.Ai; si;a. \\,ih I 1 1 ||r<| In |l'|M.|l ;ll (lir ■;lii|i, lli;il, iillcr piissiliif il slli|i ol (i|irll iidiiiM immiiimI llir ( iiiii', lib; ImkiI Wii-; ci ii-.lird Itv ll"' iiinviiiij irrirm I (| liii I \ I w .1 ml, Miiiii' seen Im ,i I lie W linli' lull "I'W r(i!n|Mii\ , \ iirni II I--, nil -1 I'M ICS (ll.l'l piiik, iiiid witli il the liDX cliifiiiiiinrlcr, iind tlu; tiiiicli viiIih'I Ciiscll.i iliriidulilc; and dtlicr iiisliiiiiHiiits. A r(!ii<;wuay and tliere eneaiiipnig. The (•(Hiilitioii of the ''I'ohuis"" had become more iiiisal'e and uihiiin. iortal)le. A serious leak had been discoveretl as far baek as .M,i\ Ji, and before the eh)se of June it was necessary to keep the punip _;i]iii.. twelve hours out of the twenty-four, liy tliis (hite, however, iIki,. seemed a fair expectation that ere long she eouhl be pai'tially s;i\\t i| out and eli>ar herself by tiie opening of the ice. The northeast m;i|,. Completely cleared the straits to the west and southwest, but died uwav without displacing the berg. After two days" hiborious use of tin; id.. saws the stern of the vessel was freed; she slid from the tongue of the berg into an open cut and was once more afloat. There was imuli open water in sight. It was possible that Robeson's Strait was fife and it was expedient to join the boat parties supposed to be as far nnriji iis Cajjc Joseph Henry. The "Polaris" rounded Cape Lujjton and scciucd to have a clear sea before her, but found an im])euetrable ])ack near both ('aj)e Sumner and Cape Lieber; she returned to Thank (Jod Har- bor, and again tied up to the berg. On receiving a message from Matf ('hester that both boats were cncani[)ed at Newman's Bay, the ('apt.iiii again started north to pi(;k the boats up, the crews of which were needed to take care of the shij) and nudce her ready to move nmlli il' the op])oi'tunity should offer. Ikit this effort, as well as ii third iiiiiijf during the lirst week of July, was again totally iinsuecessfid. V.-m-\\ crew was compelled to abandon its boat, and walk back from cani]! to the slii]t. August 1, it had now become a matter of serious moment to atinin any well-grounded ex[)ectation of accomplishing at this late date any- thing more towards the object of the expedition; or indeed, to |ini- vide for the safety of the vessel. The first of these objec^ts, as will lie readily seen from the jireceding statements, seemed ho])eless; thr second was fast bectmiing the central object of all thought. Tin' engineers reported that there remained coal enough for only six (l;!\s" steannng, — a sup])ly sullieient to carry the vessel under ravoi;ililc circumstances to Disco. The (^i])tain's joni'iial says: "I have liccii living in hopes that we siiould get further north, but the season is so Ig "'lll.V III 11(1 llllrnlll- S M.l\ Jl. mill !-;"iii,^' V(!r, ihciv illy s; I Weil llt'iist ;4;il,. d'u'A ilWiiV di' lln! iei- [JIK! ol' tilt' was 111 11(1 1 IS iVci' and ir north as lid scciiu'd jiiick near : God 1 lar- froiii Mate le ( 'aptaiu lilcli wciv •e iKU'lli if liird made 111. Kacli I'oiu caiiip to attain (late any- (1. to pl'ii- as ivill lie ■less: llir lit. 'riic six (ia\s t'avovalilc lavc lit'cii is(»ii is sii LKAVINC TIIH 1 1. MI MOW. nv.) mifavnialilc, tlio ii'o so coinpiicl mid close, tliiit it' we had an oi)))ortunit v t,, >i;iii iidith it would not hi; at all advisalilc, Avillioiit a supply ol" cual. y. r ii In risk it with a vt'ssel like ours at this advanced state of the season. \Vf must leave the harbor, for delay ikjw will must probably prove i 1 ! 1 ' . V\ :i- ill 'ti 'I l]\4 AMKIMCAN KXI'LOItATIONK IN TIIK K'l: ZONKS. fatal; wc could not l':r\> tlu; vessel alloat in her present eoiiiii (Iniinn' another winter, and will he eoni|)elled to run iier on the h. ,, (>ii tiie 11th the ice in the straits was ol»serve(l (o he dril'lin'^ > .i, at 4.->U on the day lullowiny; the eiii^'ines were slarleil and the sh:^ Thiink (Jod Iliivhor. W'itii n'reat earu she was piloted Ix'tween heavy Hoes, JaliMi- iieiivily all niylit and at .') a.m. of the loth, was |);issini;' so ^wii throiio'h the open water which had heen sei-n IVoni ( )hst'i'\ alor\ 11! that it Avas necessary to shorten sail on account of the thicis | Knterint^ an iinpenetrahle [)a(;k, she was tied to a lloe, and dril'teil -, lull ll." Ill: I 111. IIIL- IIOL'.SK UN TlIK ri-fiK. hours slowly down tlie channel, inakin^^', as the ice here ami ili.;v opened, very short advances as far south as 80" 01 , and having ii ,ii encnigh for four days' steaniino- only. Leakinsi' yet more hadh. ^'iw suffered several very severe nips. By tlie 27tli every preparation !:,nl been made to abandon lier. The drift during the ..onth of September continued (.'hiedy iii\\;nil the south and west, averaging not nmcli more than a mih; ,, Ni:i). :'.l. ('niiM;l|uii lie !. :rh.- ill,!;- >'iiltli; 11' sli;;i Irl'l hadly. -!M' tlial tilt-' pJii'tyi if saved, must escapo to the sln)rL', a house for tlie line was I'uilt, of tlie diiiieusions twenty-seven feet by twenty-rntn- ; the sivtie experiences of the month foUowing making, however, new phms lacissavy. October 12, Cairn Point was only two miles to the south- ^11 '.\U\ AMKItHAN KXl'liOllATloNS IN I'llK Ki; /i»Ni;s. i'iisl ; on tlic l^llii (iiilc I'niiil wiis diir west iit iionii, and cm tli< | || NortlinniluM'hind Ishind Wiis in sinht, the ship drilling slill nimc under a noitliciist lialc. I.i|'H||\ TIIK SKI'AUATION. ()('t(»h(M' If) at 7.'?() r. M., tlic " rdliiiis " ran ain()n^ wliitli hroke up llic line to wliicli slic was at taclicil, and tlic pads iInMir^ i,, januucd lici licavily. Slic was laiscd np l)odil_> and tliidwn ovn on | port side, lici' tindx'rs crackt-d witii a lond report, and lier sides sciin, to he l)reakinjn' in; a. piece of iee heinj;' reported as aelnalU (hi thronj;li. vVndd the vioh'nee of the storm, th(^ (hirkness ol' the ni. and t he n'rindin^' of the iee, |)rovisions and stores were ordered in thrown ont on t'u' lloe. 'I ids woik was done with extraordinarv v ii'i n-li l|>l>lll\ and (h'vehtpinent of stiiMiyth, unih-r tht^ intense exeitenient ol" Hir Ihuh, The records ol" the FiXpedition work wvw [)hieed i'ar back npon |||,' i],,, witli a hiruje amount, of |)rovisions and clothing, und tht; two hoals wliid, I'eniained were also lowered, and witli tlu! scow placed upon it. At !>..■>(! I)v some chaiiijt; in the iee the starboard side (d" the si lip \V;b again clear, the vessel was free from pi'cssni-e, and the cracks in i\i)c began to open, but nnlortiinately two of these (nacks lan 1 1 the p'aces wlierj' the stern anchors had been planted, bivakiic. hold, and the anchors dragging under tlu! strain, she swung idiiiid ii irill|n|| lllil' I'arMcil mill the forward hawser. It slipped. The '' I'olaris " was rapidlv away iVom the lloe and those u|)oii it. The night was blac st(Miny, and in a lew nionieids nothing of the Hoc or of the men dii ii could be seen through the drifting snow. Some dark forms weiv seen appai't'iitly rushing hopelessly toward the shij); the voice of the siewiiid was lu'ard calling out, "(iood-bve, 'Polaris' I" TIIK TWO PAltTIKS. iS soo n as tlie floo disai)peai'ed, a nuister on board the '' Polaris" was answered by ]ourteen of tin- coiii|)any, vi/.: the captain, ilic t\V(. mates, the chief of the scieiililic corps, and the astronomer, tlic Iwd engineers, carpenter, two liremen, and four seamen. On the line had NKAi; MKsrUI < TloN. 117 li,.,.ii ' Tl niiiPit <'ii, vi/.. : ('ii|it;iiii 'rvsmi, Mr. Mrycr llic iii('lr(intl(»j,'ist, ill,, .^h v\ iird, the cook, six sciuncti, iind t lie Ivskiiims, Joe iiiid I liitis, wil U i)S were siTii the sli'wani IC " l*(il;itis" iiiii, llic IW" iier, tiic iwii the, Hoc 1i;h1 •ir wives and children, iiiehidiiifr a babv horn to Hans Autnisl 12 and I hen christened Charles Polaris. ll (I ?' f !■ I n I lis AMi'.iMcAN i;\ri,ni; Ai'ioNs IN iiii; in; /,(»m;s. Till' lirsl call ii|miii llif slii|i's ciiiiiiiiiiiv at lliis liiiifdl' iltrji "III iiiiM liri|i|cs.sii('ss, was III III' (III llir must iiirfl'iil JiMikiiiit I'lir tl II' I 'iii|. if thr si ii|i. (liivcii as she was rapiilly I liniiii;li llir iiiiil;Ii sra, \< lilies 111' herns; ant! In kee|i it" |Hissiltle allnat. 'I'lie reiiieiiilirai II' ili.ii 11. the iinals liail lieeii lelt nii the line enllld nut lessen the aiixiel til \ . .Mil ir , \- tlie eiiL^'iiieers" ie|Hirl ol' the iiiereasiiij.'; leakage was alurmiiii;' in i lienie. Tlu! water was |iiiiiiinn' in so rapiillv that they feaicil tin iiii> wuiiiii lie put niit liel'iii'e steam eonlil he raised tii wurk the |>nni{i. \\ the water I'nse to the lii'e-|ilates all must he Itist, ami ni this mmih m h w Iml W as la|i|iiiiL;' dver the llonr (if the lire-riMim. IIa|)|)ily a few |iails n| aler iVnm the hniler started the fmir lai\L;'e inaiiiMlcck |)Um|is, |i. \\ | all hands were instantly calltMl, ami h\ tlimwhij^' into the liir i \ri\ t'limhiistihle material, inelndiiiL!,- seal-hliihher, the eiii^niieers, aliei than an hour of the severest lahor, ,i;(»t tlii' steam iiuin|i at wmk. I ihh iimri I r,ii idly LS'anied on the leak, the wind died away, the moon showcil In im li more freiiiieiitly,;! lew stars were seen, and worn-out men yave thriiisiUo up to lirokeu slumhers. IJut where wert; the iiuMi on the line? Those on hoard wakeil on the morninn' of the Ihtli to a ealm iiml ijlr clear day. Mr. Chester, from the Crow's Nest, iiud Henry Hohhy. ;hl they saw sonu^ of the provision^ uml stores on the tloe four miles distant : hut others felt sui'e that tlii.s\\,i> bhiek iee or stone or i/t'/>n's Not one o f tl leir comrades (iould lie sirn, The *' I'ohiris," herself it was thouuht, must he ahan(hined Mil' IIIHI coal enouu^h for a few (hiys only, when a hree/e from th(.> niiillii;i>i. hreakiiii;- up thi' icv, an iset'ured hy lieavv hawsers to large grounded liunuuc side toward the heueh. Every prt'parati(ni was now cks, 1 ler slaihiMi to he made I'nr llir saving of life on shore until either some providential rescue sluiiilij ajipear, or the ship's company could huild new" hoats and escajie lo ilir south, the latter of these two eluinces it will he found liecaiiit' tin- necessity. The ]iosition of the shi}) was not far from Littleton Islaml. The ship's company were not under anxiety for the means nf su>- taining life, although their stores of clothinu' w'ere verv scant v. ami iln v '■''1 Ill I III' I 'UII'M' II, I'. 1-1 llir 'I'illM, lli.ii l\i<'l \. .Mill ; ill llic cN- il 111. liivs |.lllll|.. Il llliilih III II [mils dl' h,,i S, 111 W lliili ' lire r\iTV illlcr IIHilT rk. Il r,i|i- ,Vt'(l llcr>rll' llirlliscl\r.> il caliii ;iiii| lldllilV. iilir t ('(iilM Ml' isi(iii> ;iiiil t t lii.s \\,i> lit' Sl't'll, ; slic liml lliirllir;i>I. lie slidiv. 1(1 slir \\,i> stiirliiianl tie t'nr ilii' lit' slmiiM a|H' 111 liir t'caiUf the 11 Island. lis (if sus- . and llicv 320 AMERICAN EXPLOIIATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. m w M y^i. could lK)pe to be witljoiit severe discomfort in the liouse wliich lii„| been proni^jtly built on shore from the uuiterial of the slsip. Diiiino- ih^ renuiimler of the nu)nth, and through the winter, and tlie fust UKuitlis of spring, they were assisted by parties of the Eskimos from l*]i;ili iuid other points, but, at times, had the usual experience of fniding the natives a great discomfort, by their frequent visitations and dopt'iideiuc upon the shi[) for supplies. Their first visit, made at the time nf the "Polaris" taking the shore, was a valued help, and their skill in the hunts was the reliance of the ship's company ; on the other hiuid the number of visitors — at one time seventy-seven — was a trying inllie- tion by their want of cleanliness. When as many as twentv-tliree began to sleep on the floor of Polaris House, snow-houses avcu- I milt on shore for such as wished to remain near their white friends. By May 1, there had been one hundred men, women, and children at l*olaris House, with as many as one hundred and fifty dogs. On the 27th of the month two, boats for the journey south had been built by the dexterity and care of Mate Chester ; their (liinen- sions were, length twenty-five feet, breadtii five feet, and depth two feet five inches. On •'^he two days following, active preparations were made for departure; on the second of these days almost all the land-ice broke away, u.id wli'i it the "Polaris" wont adrift, and was canieil about two hundred yaxUs towards the south, where she again grounded. At high tide her upper deck was about two feet below the surface! of the water. Siemens and Hobby went out to her in the little scow and fastened two largj hawsers to her from the rocks on shore. It was tlu)ught she might be driven high and dry upon the beach in the autumn, and furnish to the Eskimos a supply of wood. All (d her wliich could be made use of by the ship's company had be'Mi sccnn'd. and either worked up or put into a condition for further use mi (he voyage. The rest of her history will follow that of THE DRIFT OP THE FLOE PARTY. Of the nineteen persons left upon the floe at the time of sepuratioii, some were carried off in that dread hour of the dark night, on lirdkcn pieces separated from the main floe, which was a large one ; they were SCANTY IMIOVISIONS. 3:21 liKHi^lit agivin upon it by the boats, the articlos which had been placed (III these sinaUer pieces being of necessity abuiKhmed. At nu(biight in ;i iiiiiiding snow-drift, the wliok; party hucUlled together under some iiiu>l<-il for his sharp eye-sight, was able to distinguish a living being or a signal. Efforts to reach the ship as well as those made to get to land were alike unsuccessful. The sole expectation before the men on the tlof was to drift with it ; possibly at some happy hour, to get into open Wiitcr for a safe boat journey south. Fioni tliis date their story, during the severity of a winter pi-o- liiiiL^cd through March, is one of extreme suffering and extreme I'orti- ni(h'. As eariy as November the effects of exposure and want of pro])er loud were plainly visible. The seals caught by the natives were almost the only available i)rovisions, and these were hastily eaten, uncooked, mid with the skin and hair on. What little remained of the ship's >iiiit's was given out by weight by an ingenicuis scale devised by ^Iv. MrviT. On New Tear's day. Captain Tyson dined on about two feet i.r frozen entrails and blubber, and only wished he "-had enough of ihai": the natives could catch nothing; "the daih" allowance was a little mouldy bread." The rapid consum[)tion of the stores was telling >\\\\ more severely on the strength and endurance of all; signs of Miiivy appeared. IJefore the month (dosed, however, seals were (•;iiiL;'ht. 1 he lirst four days of I'\d)ruarv were dismal ones, as the l-'.skimos could find no water and no seals, and the sufferings of the (diihlreu li'iiii hunger were painful to witness. Tlu' wind blew violently from i 1 ■ U m Hi 1- '1 Im p m Iw iS ^51^ 3 . ^& 1 ^'- . ■ - M 322 AMKUICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THK ICK ZONES. the iKtrth and wost, and tlio smtw drifted heavily; tlui teinjiciaiun, ranged tVoni — 1(>° to — 22°; but the v/eath(;r moderating, on Hk. dm- folh)wing these, Hans shot a sniiill seal, whieh restored 8oni('\vli:ii the spirits of the ['art}-. He had stniek it just as it po[)ped its IkmiI in, through the young ice, and brought it from a distance of sixty yards by working liis way to the Jloe in the kayak. Uefore tlu^ close of the month, the allowance of provisions Wiis a^aiii recbu'cd one half — to a few ounces a day — the smallest (plant i.iy witl, whicli life could be sustained. A l)ear track was seen but Nist; !iiii thirty-seven dovekies were brought in, every part of which, except ilu^ feathers, v»as eaten. Thes(! birds ar(^ very small, twenty or thirtv (if them making only a nuxlerate meal; nor do they make warm blond like the seal. Tiie thermometer stood — ?.0°. After such long fasting, a too free indulgence upon an ook-guok, caught sho'.lly afterward, brought new suffering, especially to iliusc who ate of the liver, a number of whom were sick for a week, losiiii'; tin- okin of their faces, hands, and chests. So crazy had their appetites lic- come that their hands and faces, at this feasting inside the igloo, wciv smeared with bh' kI. On the 27th a fine large sea-bear was caught, dl' whieh every part, except the liver, tasted good. Ai)ril 1, it was found necessary to aban(h)n the now wasted iiiid unsafe iloe; the party took to their only remaining boat. It was oiu- intended to earrv six or eit'ht onlv; but at this time she had in hci' twelve men, two women, and five childroa, with the tent, soiiu- skins, and provisions. Finding her loaded too deep, one huiidrcd pounds of meat, and nearly all the clothing were thrown overhdiud. Great pains were taken to preserve Captain Hall's writing-desk and papers. After making from fifteen to twenty miles south and west in the pack, a landing on the floe was again made at noon and a tent pitched. Seals were now so easily caught that no apprehension of want was felt. On the 5th, under a westward gale and a fearfully high sea, i)icces again and again broke from the floe, nudving it necessary to haul even- thing back towards its centre, one piece carrying Joe's hut, its inmates, however, esca[)ing at the eound of the cracking ice. ALMOST rnUISH KI). ii28 i 'I'lic lOtli was, perhaps, the most (lungoroiis (it' all tlit; days oxpori- eiicc'l l)y this party. At 1) v. m. a stuhhui ahiiiu was <;ivcii by th(! inau (111 uatcli, wh(;ii instantly a soa washed over the lloe, cai lyinjjf awa}' the tent, llie skins, Jind most of the hed-eh>thing. Thi' one (thjcct nctw was to save the boat. Tor on tliis their lives depended; to do (liis it was necessary for the nuMi to stand on eatdi side and liold on with all their strciiu'lh. Th(! strong' ook-o-()ok lines wliicli were lastened to ])roj(!etin^' |i(iiiiiN in the ice, freiiuently parted, and every iit'teen or twenty nunutes a s; it eanie, carrying the men witli it to the oj»posite edgi! of the ice. Vet they held on from nine o'cloi-k in the evening- to seven the next morning, when they hinded on a small j)iece of iee. Tlie fatigne and danger eouUl never have been borne but for the three mcsals made on tlif seal last shot by Joe. And yet lie was once more to he their preservin- ; for on th(; 22d, when t!ie men wcjC lialf drowned, cold, without shelter, and without food, on his fourth venture out on the ice, lie saw a bear eonung towards liiiii. Hurrying back for liis gun, \w returned with Hans, and the two from behind the humnu)ek, kilhsd him iuslantl} . But for this success the party nuist have jierished. n i THE KESCUE. Ih'lief, however, was now at hand. When the fog opened on the morning of April 30 a steamer was seen close to the fioe, and at the boats signals her head was soon turned towards them, and one hun- dred men on deck and aloft were returning three cheers given by the shipwrecked people. The ship proved to be the sealing barkentine "Tigress," Captain Martlett, of Conception Bay, Newfiundland. The position in which she lay was lat. 53° 35' N., off Grady Ilnrbor, Labrador. The party thus rescued came in safety to the harbor of St. John's, May 12, and were brought to the Washington Navy Yard by the U. S. Steamer "Frolic," Commander C. M. Schoonmaker, June 5. The northeastern coast had been found blockaded by the iee and the prevailing east winds, and Commander Schoonmaker had passed more than one hun- thed bergs and floes in a single night. I '. V 324 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. ii ,1 , ■•■I . .' 1 1 > t 1 , 1 ' i 1 1 i 1 i f ': ': '. IM It is tlie judgment of competent officers that nothing in all history has equalled the i)reservation of this ice-floe party : even the balx; was saved. Too much credit can scarcely be given to the chief of the imrtv, to the natives on whom all were dependent, or to the individuals tlnin- selves for their heroic fortitude. Nor is it less remarkable as rcpK.. sented in the report made by the Hon. Secretary and his collcauuts. June 10, 1873, that, "after their rescue, although enfeebled Ijy sciimv diet and long exposure, and mentally depressed by their isolated im,! unhappy situation, so fearfully prolonged and of such uncertain issuu. the general health of these hardy voyagers remained good, and wiun their trials and anxieties were ended, they soon regained their usual strengtli." The drift of the lloo had been that of one hundred and ninety days. For the interesting details of the sufferings, bardy en- durance, and final safety of officers, soamen, and Eskimos, the reader is referred to the volume of Admiral Davis, which has been named. The track of the floe Avill be found marked on the circumpolar map (Pocket of the present volume). IIELIEF SHIPS SENT FOR THE RESCUE OF THE "POLARIS." The information brought by the floe-party concerning the situatieu of the •• Polaris," when last seen by them, induced the Navy I)e[>art- meiit to take prompt measures for the rescue of her oflicers and crew. Two vessels were dispatched, the sealing vessel "Tigress," and rlie U. S. steamer "Juniata." The "Tigress" was further fltted out at the Brooklyn Navy Yard for all the dangers of Arctic navigation, and the possibility of wintering in the north; this delayed her sailing until Jidy 14. Her higher officers were : Commander J. A. Greer; Lieuten- ant Comuiander H. C. White ; Lieutenants Wilkins, Berry, and.Sehieo; with Captain Tyson, ice-master, and ranking as Acting Lieutenant. The "Juniata" was made ready to carry coal and other supplies tor the "Tigress," and to prosecute the search lierself as far as was jnudeiit for a vessel not built or strengthened for Arctic navigation. She was under the command of Commander D. L. Braine, whose chief under- officers were Lieutenant Comnuinder Merriman, and Lieutenants De- CRUISE OF THE LAUN'CH. 325 Lout;'. I(^e, McClcllaii, and Chip[). Tlio "•Juniata" entered Sukker- toi)lH'n 'July 17, llolsteinborg on the 18th, and Disco on the -!Jtii. Here ('(.nnuander l>raine found the stores left by tlie "Congress"" and the ••I'dlaris" a])parently in good order ; lie left coal and other simes for till" •• Tigress."' At Upernavik, after considtation with Governor Rn- ildlplu he endeavored to open coiuniiniieation with the "Polaris" by means of tlie Eskimos; they refused to go North. lie learn(> skin, hail dried enough to bo lighted. The return to port was ikccs. sary. DeLong therefore went back by another rouie, that of tlic mid. channel, and on the 12th communicated with the "Tigress," wliidi h;,,! now arrived at Tessuissak, and rejoined the "Juniata" at Upernavik. August ol, the "Juniata" sailed for St. John's, aiul on anivin^r there and informing the Navy Department that the oilicers and crew of the " Polaris " were reported to liave sailed soutli early in June in boats, was instructed by the Secretary to^continue the search; but at mid, night of Sej)tember 18, when sixty-five miles north of St. John's, was overtaken by the British steamer " Hector," which informed the com- niander of tlu; safety of the " Polaris" party ; grateful news, which, hav- ing been telegra])hed from Dundee, where the "Polaris" party was, was taken out to sea from St. John's by U. S. Consul Mollon. In the nu^antime the "Tigress" had sailed from Upernavik, July 1 1, examined Netik Harbor, on the 14th, and the same day, landed al i la- spot occupied by the Polaris crew the preceding winter. The Polaris House was still standing, with its bunks, mattrass's, furniture, galley, etc., but provisions, instruments, books, and stores wc re everywhere scattered along the shore. The "Tigress" took on board all the manuscripts, a mutilated log-book and all other books not torn into pieces ; lU) cairn or place of coi.eealment for records was found. Cimu- mander Greer was told by the chief of the Eskimos that, some time after the departure of the crew of the "Polaris," she had broken h cruise that nine had expected to sight Ca[)e York. The rescue thus autici])ated by Commander Orecr had been efl'ceted under the following circumstances. r 1 i 1 ! > f UKSGUE OF THE POLAKIS TARTY BY THE " KAVEXSCRAIO." Six weeks after the rescue of the lloe party under Tyson, the four- teen oHlcers and men of the Expedition who had been left on the "I'olaris" were ready to take up their still hopeful joiu'uey to the soutward. While waiting the day of departure, Mr. Bryan and Dr. Bessels had visited Dr. Hayes' Fort Foulke in order to determine the meridian difference between that place and Polaris House. The stores which could not be carried away were now carefully de])osited,* and on the 3d of June, 1872, the two boats' crews, under * Captain Nares in the report of Ills voyage to the Polar sea says : On a visit to Life-boat Cove, July 28, 1875, it was found that no part of the Polaris lioiise remained intact, but pieces of wood, cases, empty tins, ai.d other "odds and ends" iiiailicd the site. Within the cairn made on ♦' - departure of Budington's party nothing was fomid, but apart from each other, and without any protection were found four or live boxes each covered with heavy stones and containing n)any small articles of great use to till! Eskimos, yet apparently xuidislurbed. A few books were found, but no pendulum, tnuisit Instrument, or chronometer. From the stores left by the '' Polaris," the English Expedition of 1875 received much benefit, an acknowledgjuent of which will be found in Cai)tain Nares' Report. Captain Budington liad made three deposits; lists of which will 1)0 found on pages (IGB and 0(51) of " The North Polar Expedition of 1871." ("aptain Nares says : "But for the valuable deposits of provisions established by the 'Polaris' at Hall's Rest, [jieutenant Beaumont would have found the greatest difficulty in obtaining sup- plies." August 19, 1870, Captain Allen Young, of the " Pandora" (late the " Jeannette" ). (m a visit to Polaris Camp, found some relics of Hall's Expedition which, with the original records left on Littleton Island in a cairn by Captain Hartstene, U. S.N., when cruising in 1855 for the relief of Kane, he forwarded to the U. S. Government. A bag of wheat was found at Polaris Bay, whicli was sent to the Arctic regions from tlio Smithsonian Institution of Washington, for the purpose of ascertainirjr the power of r f H HUDINGTONS PAUTV hAXDS OX XOUTaUMBKRLAND ISLAND. sill!- Alloy qor 21) Caiiliiiii nilt()(Ml llic coast witli ii I'iiir wind, Clicslcr hciiii^f ahead. Soiilli n|' Cape .\li\:iiidci' I licy caiiii! toil loost! |»acl< wliicli tlic\- could not enter, and rclnnii (•(lur-i' Willi so ■d to Sorlalik. Ijiuinclic(| ai^ain on the 4th, lli('\- slia]icil u straight for lliiklnvt Islands to which they |inlled l>y 1>.20 I'.M. ; sleepintr nie cond'oi't anioni;' the rocks, Inil in the niorninL,^ liiidinL,Mlicni- sfjvcs covcreij with snow. ( )ii the '.Mh they elVcc^tcd a, (eni|ioraiy hiiid- iiii;iiii N'ortlunnhcrland Isliuid and on (hel^'.lh hauled upon Dulrvinple Isliind. On the "JfJd, aftdi" Hourly h)sin_t;- on(! oi' the hoats, eaMi;lit between tho Hoc and the pii(d<, their rescue came in lilt. 75" o8' N., lon<^. " .')">' W . At 10 A.M. ol' this eventful d;iy, .Mate Chester had elect rilied the company '»y eallint;' out "Ship ahoy I" Tlu! ' IJavenscraii,^ " of Kirk- c;il(lv, Seothmd, u ♦iu'eci-niasled steaniei', was distant altout t(Mi miles on V, fastened io the laiid-ice. 'I'lie I'olaris Ihi'. '■ was hoisted (tn two oars laslie(l to grave of Captain Hall, (luring the stay of our mer in the neighborliood, were, on the return of the Kxpedi- tioii to England, forwarded l)y the British Admiralty to the United States (Joverumcnt. A dironoineter found at the boat-iamp, after four years' exposure to the vicissitudes of Arctic temperature, kept excellent tii \e from the period of its arrival on board the "Dis- covery," until that shii' returned to Englaii.l 'n November, 1870. Sent by the Admiralty to Washington, it was, after being cleaned, issued to the TT.S.S. " Qninnebaugh," on wliich -liip it again did good service. Ketm-ned to the U. S. Naval Observatory on the termiua- tidii of the cruise, it was reported by Lieutenant Moore as late as January, 18S2, as having an excellent temperatm-e rate. It is a trophy. >' I !■-■ TVSON'S CREW SIGHTING TlIK SUOTCII WllALEU WIIIOll UKSCJUKD TIIKM OFF LAUICVUUK. AWAKDS nv CoNliltr.SM. :}.">1 ti(ni, to l)ring them on hoii.d, iiiid to coiiiimuiiciitc tlic j^ratrful imdli- (feiK'i' tliiit tlieir ('oiiuadi's on tlic icc-tloc luul l)i;oii jiickccl iiji. Till' reelings ol' ("ajitaiii Uiidington's iiarty iiuiy he imagined. Tliey hud never doul)ted their al)ility to reiudi the Danish setth'nients, had iU'('iiiii|ilishe(l onediair the distance, had ahiiiuhinco of jtrovisions, and wcir innit'il to hardsliip, hnt tiu; most dangerous i)art of their journey thriiiiLjli the opening i(!0, tho gahis of wind, and heavy seas were; still liel'iPii' their small, shallow, flat-hottomed, unseaworthy boats. At t» p.m. tlic Kscued men were on their weary tramp over the rotten iee and soft snow, arriving at the ship at midnight, ('ai)tain Allen, his sur- gciiii. mat(!, and crew took every earc* of the suffering party. The winder not having finished her eruise, and Ixnng unlitted for carrying ])assengers, transferred them to other vessels homeward hound. Klevi'u arrived at Dundee in the '' Arctic" Septend)er 10, smd at New York, Oi'toher 7, the remaining thret; reached Dundee in the "Eric" October 22, and New York in November. l)y an act of Congress approved June 28, 187-4, compeusatiou ami acknowledgment were authorized to be nuule to the owners, oHicers and sailors of all the relief ships, and also to ea(;h of the men wlio walked on the i(!e to rescue Cai)tain liudington's party. The ca[)tains of the "i^ivenscraig," "Arctic;," "Intreiiid," and "Eric," were further informed by the Navy Department that each was at liberty to purchase a gohl pocket elironometer, and to have inscribed thereon that it was a tokiui of the gratitude of the L-nited States for their kindness to the otlicers and men of the "Polaris." RESI'ME OF hall's THltEE EXPEDITIONS. — HIS CHARACTEU.* The three Expeditions of C'aptaiu Hall, together with the weary lahors of preparation preceding each of them, are his best memorials. Tile narratives of liis first voyage and of his third — the "Polaris" — are * The judgments expressed in this riosuiiu', which was prepared hy tlie author for the close of " Hall's Second Expedition," have been since fully confirmed by those "xprcissed in a number of letters received from Arctic voyagers, including Captain Allen Yo uig. The truthfulness of some of Hall's statements in his notes will be found confirmed in the next chapter of this volume. And it should be said here, once for all, in reply to a recent com- IfF LAlilJuVDUU. vt ' M' j! n. 332 AMKItK'AN KXri-»»KATIONS IN TIIK IPK ZON'KS. sulllicit'lit ti) disprove tlus iiU'ii sninctiincs Imstily tixprcsscd {\\n[ I,,. \y.,,^ a iiuMc i^MuiiJiiit iiiid visionary drcaiiua'; and tlio iniprcss on the miiuls of thost! who liavii inspi'ctcd tliu pruiust! and often L;iaiilii(! joiiinuls ol' his Expeditions, has heen such as the evi(h'nees of a eontinuoiis Ir.iiik tnithl'ulness ei'eate,- - the niaiMrestation of an inthiniitahh- will, cntiiry^ and pei'severanee in the (h-vout [»iirsiiit of the; two oi)jects which Inivc heen discussed. l\v lielii'ved them attainahlo, and believed hiniMlf ealk'(l to liieni as to his life-work. 'IMu! testimony of one who, next to his constant friend. Air. (JriiiucH. could hest estimate his character, is emphaticidly clear to the ptiiui ilmi Hall was a single-minded, trusting man, who l)elievud that otluns utiv lik(! himself, and that he woidd iind them such. In this he often fniunt an experience! of disap|)ointment. His enthusiasm ciuu-ernin'^- lii> favorite! ohject was extreme and abiding, and gave tone and color in nH his words and a('ls. His very want of general knowledge, and his deliciencies in special departments of s(!ieuco nuule him uuire lit f(;r ;iii ex[)lorer than a scientist could have been. Ho looked u[>on ex[»loniti(iiis and all which appertained to the increase of geographical knowledge iis far above all else; and this explains the career of one who had sihh a childlike purpose. The nu)ve information he could gather the hapiiior he felt. It was indeed the disappointment produced by the obstack's thrown in his way on his third l''xi)edition which probably caused his death. In the lack of all [)ersonal actiuaintance with Hall, this jiitlj,'- ment, expressed by Mr. J. (Larson lirevoort, of Brt)oklyii, and conliriiu'd by that of others in the city of New York, as well as in New Londdii, and Washington, has been the more willingly received by tlu! writer of this narrative. Oilicial and other public acknowledgments of Hall's worth have freely appeared in the language of the National Academy of Scicnct's at the time of the going out of the Third Expedition, in the trust re- plaint from the English Captain, W. P. Snow, that " Hall was not the author of tin- ' Aniic Researches,' published by Harper Brothers, in 1864," that Hall's journals and nett- books of his Second and Third Expeditions so closely exhibited the same style :iiul characteristics with the language of the "Kesearches" of 1804-(J!> as to idei.ufy liiiii un- questionably as the author of that volume. Captain Snow was for a short time only UaUs assistant in preparing it. His own English naval record is acknowledged. TitmrTi': ntoM tiik ntKNcir. '.V.\:\ .,,,.,(1 in liiin l»y tiui Kxi-cutivt! when ^iiiiiting liini the comniissiim of Cipiiiin of the " I'ohiris " in ISTl, in the iiwiird of the ^ohl medal d" "Hie UixjUette FuUIKhition " by th(! Sin'iet^ di- (n^oi/ftip/iii; (if i*iiiis, ainl ill the .rihntes imid to his worth by Cuptain Sir (ieortje Nares at his '^ravt! in the tar north, and in his ol'lieial rejiort of this Knglisli Kxiiiiliiioii of isT"). The extreme diseondorts, expctsures, and hdxtrs inei(h!nt to u ri'si- (Icnce auKMiy the Eskimos were not unforeseen when even he entered v-'V\)''. ^ Fr«ncis hall Y' '('j EXPLORATION \\^ l'^'' DU POLARIS )'■" ^. ^ AU NORD DU ,ft'^y-i SMITH SOUND / V V;^ V 1871-187S /.h':-'^ I 0^ 5^ Aj-C^ .■/.'-< ^^ Mnliil .iwiirclfil liy till' (l<'(i;;ra|)1iii'ul Sih-hMv of I'lirls. to Caiitiiiii <'. V. i.ill, as tin; " proniotor-iii- iliirl "I lilt' I'dlaris Jv\|ii'(litii>ii, Mint us otliciwisi' diH' liiiii In,- )iis ipicvloiis labors." Kor Uk' I!c|iiirl nf ihr fipiiiiiiissioii i>f Awanl, V. A. Alaltc-Mniii, cliiff, nim' tlit' liiii' '''i of tl.<' fiocifty for tlus year IsT.'i, ami Ailiiiiral Davis' voliiiiu', pano (ilTi. An cliM'tlolyiM- of tliis inciial, stnu'U at tlif .Mini ill I'lirit!, wiw |i:iil -I,A-(1(), Died July 1, ISOO, On another tombstone will be read, — Ou-SK-ooNO (Jeannie). Died July 1st, 1867. Aged 28 years. Ou-se-gong was a cousin of Joe, and wife of Kud-lup-pa-mnne, known by the whalers as " Abbott." ♦ Captain Budington brought these two Eskimos from Cumberland Iiik't to New London in 18(56 ; on their return with him the next year, Jeannie died on the voyage. Two smaller headstones put up for Hannah's children have on them the inscriptions : — And TU-KE-LI-KE-TA. Died Feby. 28, 1803. Aged 18 months. Sylvia Grinnei.i. Ebierbino (Puiina). Born at Ig-loo-lik, July, 1866. Died March 18, 187.'). " Of such is the kingdom of heaven." 1 li ■ §l. hi' ! P 844 AMERICAN KXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. "She was a survivor of the Polaris Expedition under Commander Cliarlcs Francis Hall, and was picked up with nineteen others from an ice-lloc, April ;50, 1873, after ii drift on the ice for a period of one hundred and ninety days and a distance of nearly twelve hundred miles." On a visit to these graves in 1878, when making inquiries of Eskimo Joe in regard to some facts for use in the Narrative of " Hall's St'CdnJ Arctic Expedition," he was observed to kneel at Jlannah's grave iind carefully weed out the long grass. Then turning to his i^isitors lu" said. "Hannah gone! Punnagone I nie go now again to King William Land; if have to tight, me no care." Over the grave of the faithful Hannah, the interpreter of each Ex- pedition, and the friend who wept at Hall's burial, lias recei ';ly l)ceii placed an elegant granite headstone with the monogram J. & 11. and an inscription, designed for her by Mr. J. J. Copp and other due friends. ml mm i h. j.i; : lA ■ M' l!.p . 'r' 1^ ' ■'ii ,i, .Miarlos Francis 73, afle-r a drift »f nearly twelve ' of each Ex- i-ecei/;ly l)t'eii J. & II. and d other true i i' t'n ■ j ',1 (■ ., 'ill r i ( I :• » i!l UEUTENANl' FHKDKHIOK SCHWATlvA, U.S.A., IMKDALMST OP THE SOOIKTIO 1)K (nWmAl'HIi:, 1883. I>om "Schwatka'i Jiraroli," liy W. II. (illdor. ClmrlM Scrlhiier'i Soiii. I I- h I 1 ! If * ,; If '1 ■A 'i CIIArTKK IX. SF.KIHJK JOirUNKY OK MKIITKNANT SCIIVVATKA. U.H. A. ItKI'OKTM I'MtOM IIHIiHoN's HAY WIIICII CXU'AHlnNKM I'll K .KUTRNKY. — SMI.INd OK TIIK "KOTIIKN." - AICKIVAL AT l>KI'(>T ISLANM. Till; TItrK HTOIIY OK "TIIK, HI'OON." — HKJMHION TO (!|{OSS TO KINO WIM.IAM I.ANO. MKK/riN(} WITH TIIK INNIU'IS; TIIKII! S'l'OKIKH.— VIHI'I' TO TIIK <;AIKN. — KKMAINH OK LIKUTKNANT lUVINO, it. N., IDKNTIKIKD. .lorifNKY TO V \VV\ KKMX. — NO KKCORDS KOUNI). — i;KI,irs OK KKANKMN's KX I'KIHTION. — (!AMI'IN(I Ol'T AND HLKIXiK .loniiNKY, OCTOllKIt, lH7lt, TO MAIMMI I, IHHO. — KK/riMlN TO TIIK I'MTKM STATKH. - ANYAKI) OK A Mi'-MAI, \\\ IIIK (IKOOl! A I'll ICA li S()(MKTY OK VAIMH. — KK(!0(!N ITION OK TIIK \VOI!K IIY CONCiKKSS. V li;is l)(HMi hIiowii ill tJip provioiis (iliuptid's, iliiit tlic! h(»I(! <»ni(!ial or oilier HMMM'd wlii(rli (!V('r liiiH hcnii r(M!eiv(Ml from llir ships of Sir * .liiliii l*'riiiily liiciitcniuit M(('liiito(!l<, K. N., in |M;V.>. 'I'Ik; riirllicsl, , J'ole, and. i oracticable, to navip^iite through the northwest passant; to the I'aciiic Ocean in one season 846 ■ ll ^ . < ]l;: I I' 346 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. adding: "As, in following this route, the 'Pandora' v/ould pass Ivinff William Land, it was proposed, if successful in reaching that iocalitv in the summer season, when the snow was off the hui'l, to iimk,. ;^ search ii>v further reconh and for th" joiirnals of the ships ' i'hclnis" and 'Terror.'" Captain Young, however, found himself hcsct l»v an impenetrable pack at the Koquette Islands in Franklin Chiiniicl, nn. hundred and forty miles from Point Victory, — a disa[)pointm('nt wliich was more severely felt because, the day before, his ship had run soiitli- wai.! tlirough Peel's Straits with a clear sea, witli no sign of icr. ami with every prospect of reaelung King William Land, and aecomplishiii(r the northwest passage. Three years later, the search for the records was renewed ])v bieu- tenant Sehwatka, U. S. A. For the recovery of these long-dcsiri'd treasures, nothing was accomplished, simply because nothing was [)os- sible ; but the journey has added facts of value to the domain of (ieography, and its records exhibit an ex[)erience of remarkable encioy, perseverance, and fortitude, entitling it to a worthy place in the stmy of American Exploration. The sledging has no parallel in Aitiic liistory. The immediate occasion of the Expedition was the renewal of tlio old story brought back from the Neit-chi-lli Eskimos by two American whaling-masters, Captains Potter and Barry, that books and pajieis were to be found in a cairn in King William Land. The first of these stories seems to have been related by Captain Potter in 1872; he had been frozen up twenty-four months in Repulse Bay and thence brought to New York, spoons, forks and knives engraved with the crests and ini- tials of Franklin, Crozier, and Fitz James; reporting that the Neit-clii-llis had spoken of papers and books laid away in a cairn by the last white man who had visited their country'. This report, again renewed in 1877. (Mi the return of Captain Barry, one of Potter's former companions, oijoiicd up the presumption that the books might be the ships' logs and notes nf scientific observations. For their recovery the British GovernnuMit fnr many years had held open a large reward, and although this had now lapsed, Messrs. Morrison and Brown, owners of Barry's vessel, the " Eothen," were ofiiciall}* informed that if the proposed search wire SCHWATKA .S INSTRUCTIONS. 347 siucL'Ssful, liberal compensation woul 1 be made. Lieutenant Fretl- eiu k Scliwatka. of the 3d U. S. Cavaliy, of Polish descent but American liirtli, had previously become eager to organize a search party and liiid the cairn and buried pa[)ers; on conference with the shipping iiKMcliants named, his (tffer to organize an expedition was acce[)ted and tliL' slii[) fitted out by private subscriptions. The enter[)rise was en- (diir;i_n'ed by Judge Daly, President of the (Geographical Society of Xcw \'oi-k, who endorsed the Lieutenant's ap[)licatiou to General iSher- 111:111 for leave of absence from regular army duty. .Iiiiie 19, 1878, Scliwatka Siiiletl from New York accompained by Mr. William H. Gilder as second in command; Henry Klutschak, who iiad passed through some xVrctic experiences ; Melms, an old whaleman ; and -hie Ebierbing, who had returned from his last Polar Expedition, under Captain Young of the "-Pandora." The " Eothen," commanded 1)\ Captain T. F. Barry, was a stout vessel of one hundred and two tens; lier crew nundjered twenty-three men. For encounters with the ice, lier hull had been overlaid to the chain plates with oak planking (iiie iiiid a half inches thick, and her stem, covered with oak two feet thick; the iron plating on it, three fourths of an inch. In addition to a fidr outlit, including arms and ammunition, boxes were shii)ped in the lio[»cful idea of the records, and tobacco stored in abundance for the use of such Eskimos as might have stories to tell or assistance to offer. Horseradish was taken as an anti-scorbutic. Within the instructions furnished to the Lieutenant, he was advised, tliat, if he should be so fortunate as to find the records, remains, or relics, their contents should be kept secret; and if he should find the remains of Sir John Franklin or any of his ])arty he would properly take care of them, and bring them to the United States. Should the expedition prove a failure in its chief object, he was to make it a geographical success, as he would be compelled to travel over a great deal of unexplored country, and would make daily observations and be able td (Hscover and mark errors on the existing charts. This Sehwatka effected. The first iceberg was seen July 11. On tli(> 10th in lat. AO" ol' N., long. 00° 45 W. before nudniglit nearly seventy at different hours were 1 l[ f msn i ^ } hI.1 ffl ' ' ' hHI ii. Hi f 1 ■i i: ' ^^1 1 ' ■ HI : K Sii » i ' Bil Bl BH* .» ■if 1 ' ' MHgm jl Bff 1 ^Tn J^"' t^i ^ S ■ ^ , . '■' !! f ' ^:::ii v!* 1 ; ,'■'' ;'l 1 ; !*•: i: n- i I "l" 1 f •; ii'ifit 348 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. in sight ; one, says Captain Gilmer, appearing like a huge circus-tent with an adjoining side-show booth, while near by, another was a mot^t perfect rei)resentation of a cottage by the sea, with gables towards tin. observer and chimneys rising at i)roper intervals along the rool'; cuo other seemed a perfect counterpart of Newstead Abbey: the ivy scchumI creeping over its sides, so deceptive were the shadows that fell on it from pinnacles and horizontal projections innumerable." August 7, 1878, the ship reached Whale Point at the entraiict! df Rowe's Welcome, au arm of Hudson's Bay, and was soon visited hy a large number of the natives, among whom were Ar-mou (the wolf), I-ke-mer (lire), and Ar-mou's brother, Too-goo-lan (Pa-pa-tewa), coin- panions of Captain Hall on his Second Expedition. All the jHoplf seemed friendly, and on consultation over the charts, it Avas decided to go on to the mainland near Depot Island, and spend the winter. The journey westward would be begun in the early part of the spring. But with deep regret it was at once learned that one of the two Neit-chi-llis of whom Barry had spoken as talking while looking at tin* ship's log, of "the big white man who many years ago had kept the same kind of book, and hid it in a cairn," had died, and nobody knew what had become of the other man. Schwatka, nothing daunti'd, pitched his tent on shore, hit. 63° 51' N., long. 90° 20' 15" W., i.,ul determined, in place of returning to New York, as he would have hecu justified in doing, to make during the following summer a linal and conclusive search. The Arctic winter up to A-[)ril 1st was tlieret'die spent in the igloos. It inured the party to the climate, and occasional sledge journeys, and taught them how to clothe themselves ancl otherwise provide against the cold. During the winter, further news of tiie ndies was by no means more encouraging than that already received, bidui Nu-tar-ge-ark a man of about forty or fifty years of age, it was learned that his father many yenrs bef(>re had taken out from a cairn on Kin^' William Land, a tin box containing ])aper with writing on it (the same account of the box and paper with that given by Captain Hall in iS(lii). Jie additional statement being at that time made to him, that the pa|)ei' had been "thrown away as of no use to Innuits." The native, how- ever, spoke further to Gilder of a cairn within which the Innuits THE whalers' reports. 349 m$' believed something lay still buried beneath a very heavy stone which had been undisturbed. A spoon brougiit from King William Land by Nu-tar-go-ark had been given to Captain Potter. Mr. (iilder's lirst errand then v;as to find the ca[>tain, and in this he succeeded on a visit to Marble Island in January, 1879, when l\)tter, tluMi second in command of the whaler " Abbie Bradford," unhappily exploded ^he story which had been the chief metnis of bringing Lieuten- ant Schvvatka from the States. This he felt constrained to do by show- iiio- iliat the assertion made by Caj)tain Barry that he had understood Iiiiniits talking to each other about "the big man who ir.uny years be- fiiic had been seen with a big book like the ship's log" was su[)remely ridiculous ; for probably no Avhite man in the Arctic could have under- stood the conversational language of those natives, so different from the "]>igeon English " tliey UvSe in communicating with the whalers. In this crucible of fact, saj's INIr. (iilder, the famous spoon* melted. So tar as Captain Barry and his clews were concerned "we liad come on a fool's errand." The final search, however, was not to be abandoned, and this decis- ion nas ivfterAvard fully justifiinl by the laboi's of the Expedition and its results. The commander knew what was before him, and with whom lie had to deal, and would not return empty-handed. To verify the statements made by Nu-tar-ge-ark and other natives — nearly the same with those made to Captain Hall in 1809 — (see Chap. VII. ]). 26G), "that very nvvny skeletons still lay on the ground in King William Land, invisible in winter by being covered with snow," — as well as to (h'terniine finally in regard to the Records, a journey would now be unih'rtakon to the distant regions. For this, the first thing necessary was to get lull dog-teams, for which Gilder set out on a visit to the Kinncjtatoos, seventy miles west and north from Marble Island. lie was the first Avhite man to visit them, the first ever seen by a number of them ; but all were friendly, even at his first entry to their igloos. * Tho famous spoon brought by Captain IVirry to New York had been sent by the writiT for Morrison tt Brown of Xcw York, from the Naval Observatory throngli the State l)('l)iutmcnt to Miss Sopliia Cracroft, London, niece of Sir John Frankhn. Tlie cut on tlio next page is a fac-simile. It was unquestionably one of Franklin's, and acknowledged as such in England. !1 II' 350 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. lieimiining witli them a week, he witnessed the performance oi' the Key-luw-tik, which has been tlesciibed in Hail's narrative, and says tliai he frequently "grew weary and slept through it," but that it would cause a sensation in New York. On his return from the village, after securing a few dogs, Gilder dis- covered two lakes, which he named respectively Brevoort and Duryca. FRANKLINS SPOON Fao-siiiiilc of a spoon brouglit from Hcpulse Bay to Morrison & Brown of New York, anil scmiI liy U. S. Naval Observatory to Miss Cracroft, niece of Sir ,Iohn Franklin. Mending done by the Kskiiims. and reconnoitred the southeast shore of Depot Island, the moutli df Chesterfield Bay and its Islands, and Marble Island ; he also discovcivd a river which lie named the Connery, and which by its course ai)i)carfd to indicate the proper route to King William Land. Within the same ])eriod, Lieutenant Schwatka made a preliminary sledge journey to the North, discovered a river which he named Lmi!- lard, and a chain of hills which he named the Hazard Range : lt» their summit he gave the name Wheeler, liy astronomical observa- tions and surveys, he determined that the west coast of Hudson's Hay in that section had been laid down on the charts about 2° too far to the West. GEOGUAl'HICAL DISCOVEUIES. 351 April 1, 1879, lie bcgiui his sledge journey of eleven months cover- iii(T a distance of three thousand two hundred and iifiy mile ., aeeom- iiiiiiicd 1)}^ thirteen Innuit men, wonu-n, and uhildren. 'J'heir si ,ds, drawn 1)V forty-two dogs, bore weights of about live thousand pounds — loads \vliiih would be each da}^ lessened by the ratioiung of tV j walrus-nicat t(i iiitMi and dogs. It was scarcely more than a month's supply, but the piuiy were reasonably ex])ecting to get their subsistence fiom the game wliiih they would continually find to increase in number with the opc! - iiio- season. Their general course was north-northwest; it was the most dJK ct route, but led them across land up to that date unvisited by a while uian, and unknown to tht Innuits. Kor the first few days the journey was one of exceeding fatigue, the iiiiMi having more than once to put on their rue-raddiex (harness) in iiidtT to help the dogs over some ridge or through a snow-drift. They crnsscd the Connery and the Lorillard rivers, and on A])ril li", by tho CJmrt, they should have been on the Wager Kivtu-, but saw nothing of it ; a i'ai-t which may ex[)lain Hall's being landed at the mistaken point, as named in this volume (Chap. VII., page 210). 'Jlii; charts of Hud- son Hay have misled the whalers. IJy the 21st tliey were in lat. iVf 4.V across the Wager River; and by May Dth were iollowing a branch of Hack's or Fish River, wliich they named after Piv sident Hayes. On this river, May loth, they fell in with a party of Ook-joo-jiks whose fhicf gave them their lirst direct news of the missing navigators. Their coming near to this [)arty was first inad"^kiio\\n bv the excite- iiR'iit among the dogs win" started off on a brisk run with loud bark- ing- : the Innuits at one* aid that this showed that [)eople were not far oir. S( hwatka's Innuits, i uding Joe, were much frightened, but were reassured by his calling cir attention to the difference between breech- loa(h'is and Innuit bo' s and knives. In fact, on coming nearer to the nine men, it was found that they had been even afraid to come out of tlitir igloos until they beard the name of one of the Innuits, and ahhoiigh they all carried knives, these were but bits of hoojwron or copper. They were also miserably poor and without food. Supj)lied by Sihwatka with reinU' ■;. -meat, of which he had already foui. ! abun- 352 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. dance, they became very friendly, assisted in building igloos, and jfave further valued information of Franklin's party. This was in part sul)- stantially the same with that learned by Hall, viz.: that a ship had 1),.,.^ found in the ice off the west coast of Adelaide Peninsula, and ilmt knives, spoons, and utensils had been taken out by cutting a hole into the ship on a level with the ice, as they did not know how to get inside by the doors; they saw no bread; they ?ciw books on board ami left them there ; and when the ice broke up in the following summer, the ship fdled througli the hole they had cut, and sank. Taking some of these men into his company, in four more miirclins Schwatka reached Back's River, and thence searched in vain on Mnu- treal Island for the reported cairn. He then again took the mainlinKi. and after crossing Kichardson Point, for the first time, fell in with the Neit-chi-lis proper. The indications from these people not iii)|)(';ir- ing those of sincere friendship, and their custom being knov/n of killinjr the first stranger that comes after a death among them, an iiupicssion was made upon them by liring a gun in the air, after which, in their turn, they became friendly, and gave much further news. One ol" the old natives had seen books and papers scattered around the rocks, with knives, forks, and watches; another as late as the j)revious sumuu'r had picked up relies f)n the west coast of Adelaide peninsula, and pcdiUcd out the j)laee where the ship had been sunk; others had seen the white men putting up a tent, some of their number being in a boat; some of the white men were very thin, their mouths di}', hard, and black ; thoy had no fur clothing on; in the following spring a tent had beeti seen standing on the shore with a great many dead bodies inside and (nit- side ; no flesh on them. There were knives, forks, spoons, watches. many books; but the books were not taken any notice of: a renewed statement which alone exists as the key to the utter inability on the part of all explorers to find the Records. They were doubtless de- stroyed by the natives; perlia])s those at Beechey Island also. June 4, Schwatka and Gilder visited a new cairn reported to have been erected by white men near Pfeffer River. It was found to be the one erected by Captain Hall, May 12, ]8()9, over the bones of two of Franklin's men which he had there discovered (see Chap. VII. p. 203), >s, and ,t AWARDED TO JOHN IRVING, MID- SUMMER, 1881. This at once identified the grave as that of Lieutenant Jidni Irving, third (it'liccr of the '• 'I'error ; " under the head was a iigured-silk ])oeket hand- kerchief remarkably preserved. The skull and a few other bones found wore carefully gathered, and on the return of the Expedition sent to the grateful relations of Lieutenant Irving in Scotland, whcic they were buried with due honor in his native town. These were the only remains which could be sufliciently identified to warrant thcii' removal. But by this kindly Christian act, Lieutenant Schwatka added another '' i :r. 11 li m\ iii:i 11 : u ■ l; 1 ij I i i ■; !, 1 1 ■ '■' i [ -' ' 354 AMKKICAN KXri-(ii;ATI(iNS IN 'I'lIK ICK ZONIOS. Uiitioiial Icstinioiiy as well as one of liiiiiiaiic I'ccliii;^ towards tl,,. laiii('iitf\u<^ in a. tnoiji idcnlilK (j j,, Kni^'land as those (;i|. skin hoots over sharp (day stones, sonu' of \vhi(di slip|)e(l, slidin'_;- tlhii' unwary i'eet into ere\iees thai wonhl seemino'iy wicn(di them iVom ili,. hody. \ vl they moved ahout ten nules a day, and made as thoronL;li a searidi as was [lossihle. Their nii'at diet, most oi" it eaten as soon :is killed, hrou^ht on rre([Uont diarrlaea, their food Ixdnt;" dn(d-;s, n'eese. ami an oin-asional reindeer. TJiret' miles south of the eape was I'oinid a lnin- (h)\vii eairn eonlainiuL;' anioiit;' other things, pieces of an m nanirm, i| china teaeiij), and cans of preserved potatoes; indieations that the >|iut had been a iiermaneiit eainpiiig-[)hieo IVom the ships, and in eliaiL;(' nf an (d'lieer. I'wo nnles l)aid< from tlu^ coast was another well-l)nili (aim or jiillar, seven feet lun'li, w hit h had I>een l)uilt on a prominent hill ovri'- lookinjjf both coasts. Tiiis Lieutenant S(diwatk;i took carefully dnwn without meetiuLi' with anv record or mark whutever. KeiXfcttin''- ihai the oidy one left standing!; on KinLj William Land, built by the iiamls of white men, should thus be found, he rebuilt it, depositinn' in it a record of the work done bv his i)artv to date. After u thorough exam- ill o ination of the locality, it was plain that Sir John Franklin had not hceii buried in that vicinity. .Iidy 7, the southward march was taken up from Cape Felix, and a cairn very like the last w^as met with, in the tirst course of stones n[' which was a jiiece of jiaper with a carefully drawn hand on it, the iiiMix fino-er jxiinling in a southerly directi<»n ; any writing upon it, if cv(r made, had disappeared, nor could any other relics be found. It was judged that these hist two cairns had been built by the Franklin ;s. .lOUIlNKV TO (;M'1; KKMJv. 3o/ !\l\ towartis ili(j . liki' (liii\ ill iiiid AMiiiii.il li iilciiiilii i| ill KH'lllClll |.iii||l clicil ;ill llii'ii' >sil)l(', 1)111 IiikI ,viilkiii!4' luiii^-- iulill<4' lllKill'^ll IL;' ill Siil't >c;i|. 1, slidiiiu,- their tliciii fniiii ihc ; as lli()riiiiL;li h tell as siiuii IIS icks, <4'ccS('. ami IS rniiiid a iiirii- iiii (iriiaiiH'iiti'il that llic >|Mit ill cliaii^;'!' Ill' ;('ll-l)uill caiiii iK'iil liill iivn- arc'l'iilly dnwn '0'reltiii;4 thai l)y the iiaiiils isitinn" ill it .1 loroiiu'li exam- hud iiul Ih'OIi ! Felix, and u ( of Sttilics lit' 11 it, the iiiiu'>: lon it, it' ever )uncl. It was the Fraiddiu IvKiirditidii for some seieiitilic' imrpose only, its seienlilic lecnrds, so liiim desired, I'speeially those doiditless made here, near the Ma^jnetic I'uli , well' not to \)v seen. .\ I'li'i' ereetinj;' a n:oniiiiieiit, .luly l^'), o\ er the L;'iave of I.ifiitenaiit Iivinu', and hiiryinj;' a copy id" the Kccord hdl here hy Mc( 'lintocdc. Scliuatka's l)arty continued their coast journey, lindinj.'; at diri'event TlIK MARCH SOUTHWARD. IKiiuts, tontinfj-places botli of white men and natives, and another cairn wliicli had been torn down, liut nothincj left within. At some distance I'll mi an enqity grave was a sknll whic-h had evidently hecMi drago'eiin\\. ji Ix'Cunic evident that sK'dj^intr \vas oNcr for tho soasoii : it wouM imw i„. iit'ces.sary to carry everything on the l)ark, or npoii llie dot;'s. Aliciu very tethons journey, Terror liay was reaehed August :>, and Sdiw.itkn and (iihh'r were there left ah)ne until September 1, their natives li.ujnif returneil to the coast to bring up some suitplies with the eiii|ii\ >l,il, 'I'he two kd't in camp obtained a i)lentil'ul siii»ply of reindeer. 'I'luv seurclied the coast as far west as C'a[>e Crozier, bid the lent-jilaii. spoken of l)y the natives could not l)e found, though its siie \\;|^ reached ; it was afterward learned that it was so close to the wat.r tlmt now all traces of it had disappeared. September lt>, a permanent cam]) was by necessity fornuMl for early wintering, and was made near (lladman Point on a narrow point Simjison's Strait. Jieindeer were seen in inuuense herds. 'I'oo-jdd-; in one day killed seven in ten minutes, kissing his rille I'or its dmirul obedience. On the 30th, twenty-six were killed. But bv OcIijIilt 14, no more were seen. TJio worst march of the whole journey began December lU : it became a continued struggle for life. The provisit>n of iish which tho party took from Back River, salmon, and a sjjecies .d' herring, soon ran out, and reindetn' W(.'re so scarce that hunters were often absent several daysbehu'c getting a shot at one. Farther south where they weio iimre ])lentiful, but the travellers had to defend thenisi'lves from the wolves, and several times the hunters l)ar('ly escaped being de\-oureit. The reindeer llesh was now too lean to afford good nonrishmeid. and luid to be eaten, moreover, not oidy raw. l)ut when frozen so stiff that it laid tn be sawed into suudl V)its and thawed in the mouth : and id' lard and tallow they had oidy enough to light their igloos. More than hall' iht dogs died on the route. Snow-storms often kept the ])arTy in camp several days : one (d' them lasting thirteen. The average temperature of the month of Deeemher (I. ah boiit \vi i(. i[| ty-i'i'^iii iVft • liccii a \,.iv I'it'il. tlif simw. ii .'iiiild ii(i\\ li,. 11(1 Scliwatkii ativcs li,i\ iii^f (' ('lll|ll \ >lril. iidfcr. 'I'lirv lie tfiil-plaiT its sitr \\;i> he wabr ilmt iumI for early rniw pdiiit (if l'(i(i-liMi-ali 'or its (liuifiil by Ocldlifi- fiiiltcr 10: it |sh \\lii(.'li tilt.' iii<4', Sdoii rail lltsciit several 'V \\{'Vt', iiidie III the wolvos. loiirc'l. Plie It. and licul to hat it liud to (d' lard ami hail liair lilt one (d" tl.em Id' Dcccinber COL.L) WEATllKU. -*>.v^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^>>>*!^ v- J/ ^ 1.0 I.I ■SO "^" ■■■ ■tt iLi 12.2 J!? 144 ■" S lis 12.0 irJil L25 iU 11.6 V Photographic Sciences Corporalion '<«^ 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0 (716)872-4503 ■^ 358 AMERICAN EXPLOKATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. !•• >■ SPr 'I ^■■' ]"•■ •i' was — 50" F., and tlie minimum reading — 69°. The mean for January was — 53° ; the minimum observed January 3, — 71°. The mean tem- perature in February was — 45° ; the lowest — 69°. The therniumet.r stood 60° under the zero point for twenty-seven several days, and for sixteen days it was below —68°. The natives said that the winttr was an unusually severe one. The theiinonicter had registered on Hie 10th, — 62°; on the 28th, in the morning, it read, — 69°; at noon. — 64° ; and at 5 P. m., — 68° ; the lowest, 101° below the freezing point. It has been determined to abandon the river and strike directly fur Depot Island. But for the excellent character of the American fire-arms used, it seems imi)ossible that this return journey could have been made. Every- thing, even the iron and wood, was seriously affected by such extreme cold, and when the guns were brought into the warmer temperat.ire of the igloo only for cleaning, every particle of the gathered moisture must be removed before they again met the cold. It was also a very ditli- cult thing to get near enough to such wary game as the reindeer, for the sound of the hunter's footsteps, though his shoe-soles were covered with fur, was carried by the wind to be heard more than a mile oft'. Yet, by the superiority of the guns, whenever the party came upon the reindeer, especially when travelling against a head-wind, preveiitinir the approach of the hunter from being heard by the deer, the breech- loaders and magazine guns did their work so effectively that they could lay in a stock of meat a day or two ahead for the igloos. The country began to swarm with wolves dail}!- met with; tliey killed some of the dogs and attacked the natives. February 23, twenty attacked Too-loo-ah, who beat them off with the butt of his gun until he had killed one and made his escape, while the others were fighting over and devouring the carcass. March 4, with light sleds and by forced marches Schwatka had got back to Depot Island, but to his amazement he here learned from Ar-mou that Captain Barry had not left with him the provisions be- longing to the party, and which he had promised to leave with tliat faithful native ; nor was there more than one ship in the bay and that was at Marble Island. A further journey was therefore necessary, RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION. 359 wliii li was ended on the 2l8t, only when the whaler "George Mary" was boarded at midnight, Captain Gilder being the tirst to reach the ship. 'J'hus was a continuous journey safely accomplished through Arctic snows, gales, and darkness during winter months, a journey une(iualled ill all Arctic history. Gilder, who was ever with Schwatka at the iVoiil, though in his recital of the march through modesty lie exclu- sivt'ly accredits others, sums up the record in terms which are worth a close citation: — " During the year that we were absent from the verge of civilization, as lilt' winter harbor of the whalers may be considered, we liad travelled two thousand eight hundred and nineteen geographical, or three thou- saiiil two hundred and fifty-one statute miles, most of which was over unexplored territory, constituting the longest sledge journey ever made, both as to time and distance, and the only extended sledge journey ever accomplished in the Arctic, except such as have been made through countries well known and over routes almost as thoroughly established as post-roads. Our sledge journey stands conspicuous as till' ouly one ever made through the entire course of an Arctic winter, and one regarded by the natives as exceptionally C(dd, as the amount ot' sulfering encountered by those remaining at Depot Island attested, and further confirmed, as we afterward learned, by the experience of those who wintered at Wager River, where many deaths occurred, attributable to the unusual severity of the season. The party success- fully withstood the lowest temperature ever experienced by white men in the field, recording one observation of — 71 degrees Fahrenheit, sixteen days whose average was one hundred degrees below the freez- injf iK)int, and twenty-seven which registered below — 60 degrees, dur- injT most of which the party travelled. In fact, the expedition never took cold into consideration, or halted a single day on that account. " During the entire journey, its reliance for food l)oth for man and heast may be said to have been solely upon the resources of the cnuutry, as the expedition started with less than one montli's rations, and it is the first in which tlie white men of an expedition voluntarily livod exclusively upon the same fare as its Eskimo assistants, thus showing that white men can safely adapt themselves to the climate and Ufffl'! ' m k ;■ n ■ U 3G0 A.MEKICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. '■:'-3 1 H ".*ir ^'t HiMt life of the Eskimos, and prosecute their journeys in any seasdii or under such circumstances as would the natives of the country tlicm. selves/' [The Second Expedition of C'a[)tain Hall accorded with this last-named fact, except in the matter of his partial dependence mi the whalers. — .1. E. >>.] "The Expedition was the first to make a summer search ovci' tho route of the lost crews of the 'Erebus' and 'Terror,' and whih- su doing buried the remains of every mendjer of that fated party jiIkivo ground, so that no longer the bleached bones of those unfortunate explorers whiten the coasts of King William Land and Adelaide i'cn- insuhi as an eternal rebuke to civilization, but all have, lor the time being at least, received decent and respectful interment." "The most important direct result of the labors of 'the Expedition will undoubtedly be considered the establishing the loss of the Fraidlorers. Tlie Comptcs liemhis of the Society for the first general session, April 20, 1883, furnish the opening address of M. de Lesseps» who referred to the fact that it was the fifty-fourth year in whieh the Society had awarded its highest honors, more than half of which had hcen decreed to Frenchmen, among whom he was proud of having place. On the presentation of the Report frt)m the Prize Connnission on the journey of Lieutenant Schwatka to King William Land, the Com- mission expressed their regret through Count Louis de Turenne, that Mr. Morton, U. S. Minister, had been prevented from being present to rect'ive liiis Medal, but were pleased that one of the Legation repre- sented him. M. de Turenne further said: "Our Commission has thoroughly examined the merits and the geographical relations of Lieu- tenant Schwatka's journey, and you will permit me to draw from it its moral bearing. England and the United States, as everyone knows, have had some earnest disputes, but innuediately on the api)earance of tlie probable disaster of the 'Erebus' and the 'Terror,' the United States exhibited the noblest activity, and made the grandest sacrifice of men and money to succor the Expedition, whose chief had once fiiught against them. The journey of Mr. Schwatka has been the eiiilogue of the series of general croisades made by the United States to recover the remains of the great Franklin. The (leographical Society is happy to have it in its power to crown the scientific results of an enterprise inspired by such noble sentiments." Addressing the representative of the U. S. Legation, M. de Lesseps said: "Be pleased to forward this medal to your courageous countryman, \vith the expression of our esteem for him and his companions. W© Its 1 ff: 'f m|I fll, hi : I' 1 1^ ! . ' f"' 1 362 AMERICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. ,iT rl M hope also that the Gordon Bennetts, the Lorillards, and the otlier Mecjenases of science in the United States will accept the acknowltilir. nients addressed to them by our prize commission, and cordially ( mi. curred in by all their associates." The beautiful gold medal, whit h is the counterpart of the Roquette Medal awarded to Captain Hull, Ims been received by the State Department at Washington, and forwaidol by the War Department to Lieutenant Schwatka. It may be noud m this connection that the SociStS de OSoyraphie, the oldest of geogniplii- cal societies, has thus shown its appreciation of each American Arctic discoverer, — Kane, Hayes, Hall, and Schwatka. By an Act of Congress approved August 7, 1882, Lieutenant Schwatka's leave-of-absence pay was raised to that of full pay diiiimr the period of his expedition, March 5, 1 878, to October 1, 1880, and mileage was allowed him from his post in Dakota Territory to New York, where he took command of the Expedition, and for his return at its close from New York City to Vancouver Barracks, Washington Tevritorv. This action of the Congress of the United States was a recognition of Ins meritorious conduct of the exploration. As it was a private enterprise. no official report was required, or has been made to the War De})art- ment. Lieutenant Schwatka is, at the date of this writing, reportini,' to the Government further explorations recently made by him on the Yukon River, Alaska. i\ t NATIVE NEEDLE-CASE. Presented to C. F. Hall when on King William Land, 1869. id the other ackno\vltMl(r. ardially cm). dal, which U aiii Hull, has id forwiiidi'd r be nott^d in of geogiaphi- 3rican Arctic , Lieutenant 1 pay during 1, 1880, and to New York, ru at its close )n Territory, gnition of his te enterprise. War Depart- ig, reportinf,' r him on the i-. Fi "'i f/i LIEUTENANT G, W. DeLONG, U.S.N. il- Entered the Naval Academy as midshipman, Oct. 1, 1861 ; graduated, Sept. 24, 1865; pro- moted to be Ensign, Dec. 1, 1866 ; to be Master, May 12. 1868 ; to be Lieutenant, May 26, 1869 : to be Lieutenant-Commander, Nov. 1, 1867 ; commanded the steam-launch "Juniata" iu search of Captain Hall, 1873 ; commanded the " Jeauuette," 1879-1881. CHAPTER X. LIEUTENANT DkLONG'S EXPEDITION TOWAIID THE POLE, 1871>-1HH1. TlIK EXPEDITION DkLONG S OWN PUOMPTINCi. — MK. HENNKTT UNDEU- TAKES IT. — SELECTION OF THE KOUTE. — THEOKIES. — DeLONO's ILAN. — THE " JEANNETTE " COMMISSIONED. — KEPOIIT OF THE l!(»AUD OF INSPECTION AT MARE ISLAND. — OFFICERS AND CREW. — SAILING FROM SAN FRANCISCO. — ARRIV^VL AT ST. MICHAEL's. — IIKPORTS OF NORDENSKIOLD. — PASSING THE STRAITS. — ATTEMPTS TO REACH WRANGELL AND HERALD ISLANDS. — FROZEN IN THE PACK SKI'TEMBER 6. — CHIPP ATTEMPTS THE CROSSING TO HERALD ISLAND. — THE "JEANNETTE" DRIFTS NORTHWEST PAST WRANGELL LAND. — PUMPING BEGUN. — LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER DISABLED. — THE IIETURN OF THE SUN. — EXPERIMENT OF THE WINDMILL PUMP. — DiLONG ABANDONS THE THEORY OF THE CURRENTS. — SCIENTIFIC onSERVATIONS KEPT UP. — THE FROZEN SUMMER. — AURORAL PHE- NOMENA. — CONTINUED DRIFT NORTHWEST. — DISCOVERY OF .JEAN- N1;TTE and HENRIETTA ISLANDS. — THE "JEANNETTE" CRUSHED. — LANDING ON THE FLOE. — DISCOVERY OF BENNETT ISLAND; DESCRIPTION OF IT BY DR. AMBLER. — THE THREE BOATS. — THEIR SEPARATION. — THE WHALEBOAT PARTY LAND ON THE LENA DELTA. — THE FIRST CUTTER UNDER DeLONG. — SUFFERINGS. — DeLONG'S LAST ENTRIES. — DANENHOWER'S SEARCH. — MELVILLE's SEARCH. — THE DEAD TEN FOUND. — THEIR BURIAL. — RETURN Or LIEUTEN- ANT DANENHOWER. — SEARCH BEGUN BY LIEUTENANT HARBER. — ENGINEER MELVILLE'S RETURN. — APPROPRIATION TO BRING THE BODIES HOME. — THEIR EXPECTED ARRIVAL. •iilii '■i EXPEDITION TO THE POLE BY THE WAY OF BERING STRAIT BY LIEUTENANT G. W. DeLONG, U. S. N., 1879-81. THE chief avowed object of this Expedition was to reach the Pole. It was the first organized attempt to solve the problem by this route, the design of M. Lambert to fit out an Expedition through tlic Strait having been defeated by his premature fall in the Franco- (ii'iuKin war. 363 , i; I I i i(ij; f *'■ ' ' 'I ! .1 |i 111. < ■ J. 1 !i ■ •; 1 i «; I y' • Si lis iii. ; ♦ 1 J iJ 1 1, i i > r ! ■ fl! J ii 8(54 AMKltlCAN KXl'LOUATIONH IN THK WK ZONEH. III ; I m From the Jiiitlit'iilu! diitu I'miiislu'd in tho "Voyage of the '.l(,ii|. lU'ttt','"* icci'iilly issued under the editrtake it; Mr. (irinnell pleading his ag(> and his having done his full share in Arctic Kx[)loration. Mr. Bennett favorably entcrtaiiitil the ich'a on its lirst presentation, but the matter rested until XovemlMi, 18T»I, when the didermiinition was formed to secure a suitable vessil and start for the North Pole the following summer. No i)roper American ship being found, DeLong went to Kngland dii a two months' leave of absence from the Navy Department, and, iift( r a vigilant but unsuccessful searcli in the northern ports from wlii(|i whaling vessels were sent out, decided that the " Pandora," which, ms has been already stated in this volume, liad made two Arctic voyages under Captain Allen Young, R. N., was the most available ship. Alter receiving information of Mr. Bennett's purchase of this vessel, DeLoii'^f figaiii went to England on a second leave of absence from naval duty in the United States. He superintended the fitting out of the ''Pandora" in the ship-yard at Dei)tford, and when she was finally ready for sea, shipped her crew at Cowes. After crossing to Havre, where he com- pleted his equipment of charts, books, and instruments, he sailed lur San Francisco by way of the Horn, July 15, 1878. Lieutenant J. W. Danenhower, who had been on duty in the Mediterranean on the * " The voyage of the ' Jeannette ' ; the ship and ice journals of G. W. DeliOng, Lieu- tenant Coinniamler U. S. N. , and Commander of the Polar Expedition, 1S7J)-81; cililtd by his wife, Emma DeLong, 2 vols., 8vo. : Houghton, Mifflin & Co., Riverside I'nss, Boston." In preparing the following Narrative the chief reliance has been upon tho voJimics just named, the proof-sheets being courteously loaned in advance; the reports of the Honorable Secretaries of the Navy, Thompson and Chandler, including those of Ensineer Melville and Lieutenant Danenhower, the Report of the Naval Court of Inquiry for March 2, 1883, including the testimony of Seamen Noros, Nindeniann, and Bartlett, and the Narrative of the Expedition by R. L. Newcomb, its naturalist, have also been con- suited. lO "PaiKloia"' FALHK TIIKOKIKS. 805 r.S. S. *' Vivnduliii," had joined him us I'.xccjitivt! Ollicei* for the cniisi'. 'I'lif voyap^ to San Krancisco was one ol' on(^ liinidrt'd and sixly-livo (iii\s, dujin^' whifh tin; shiji anchored thivt! times within the Straits ol Maj^elhin, hnt no ouo set loot on shore until I)ucend)er -7, when she anchored at the Mure Ishiud Navv Yard. TIIK ItiMTK. In rerjard to this, DeLon^^ had written to Mr. lionnett, January 2Pi: *' There are three ways lor us to send the Kxptidition ; Smith's Sound, itciiiig Strait, and the east coast ol' (ireenland. Ol" the three, I am in I'iivor ol" liering Strait, though something can l)e said in hehall' ol' the eiist coast of Greeidand. Professor Nordenskilihl has received some inrurmatioii from our Ilydrographic Ollice in rehition to Hering Strait, and a copy of this information will hv furnished us. Wo may he able to a('comi)lish much by way of Bering Stiait by leaving San Francisco as hite as July 1, but I would like to b wrote, " It is our intention to attaek tho I'olar regions by the way of Bering Straits, and if our etVorts are not crowned with success, \\(> shall liavt5 made an attempt in a new direction and exaniined a liithcrtD unknown country." In conversation with Lieutenant Danenhowcr, lie said he had also something more definite and tangible in view tlnin reaching the North Pole, and that was to explore Wrangell LiiMles of I'olar explorations. •V ■ i, ft! { it July 17, 1870, he wrote: — At Sea, lat. 4V '>S' N., lonR. l.Wo' l". " If the season is favorable to an advance northward I shall make for Kellett (or Wrangell) Land, and follow along its east coast as far as we can go. " If everything is all right with Nordenskiold, and I hear of it, there will be no necessity for our going to St. Lawrence Bay at all. In tliis case I shall push through Bering Strait at once and make for the east side of Kellett Land, following it as far as possible, and getting to as high a latitude with the ship as we can before getting into winter quarters. If our progress is uninterrupted for some distance, I shall content myself with one landing, at first on the southeast point of Wrangell or Kellett Land, where we will build a cairn and leave a record of our progress to date. If our progress is interrupted, we shall no doubt make frequent landings on Kellett Land, and build several cairits ; but, generally speaking, I shall endeavor to build cairns and leave records every twenty-five nautical miles of our track." I- |5. i THE JAPAN CUIIUKNT, 867 I'Vom OuiuilnHka he wrote, "We go to as high a latitude as Cuu\ will 1,1 us rej'ch in two years, keeping in reserve the third year to get haek ; |,i;iy tor my suueess, for my heart is set on this thing." And, here although seemingly in hasteful anticipation of the liistory wliiili this narrative is to present, the writer finds hiniself eompellea, we may look for large areas free from i(H'." In a verv iiileresting lecture retH'Utly (hdiverod before tlu; Anini I'iiii (Jeographical Society of New York, Dr. 'J'honias AntiscU, of the I'.S. J'alcnl Ollice, Washington, says : — ''In May and .lunt> a. broad warm current is found llownig Mroiiiid the sliorcs of the liiu-Kiu blands arid the Honin Islands, which it I IIIH already reached in April, pi'odiu'ing variabh; winds before the iii'>iis,n,ii is established in full inlluen {'{' 'I'his cui'reid is felt, ofl' tin; ohurcs iif crs mill ♦lapan, ami has already received its .la|»anese title — the \\\i\r.\< Sen nr current (Kuro Siwo) — from the remarkabli! dark color which itswai exhibit when looking t. er the ship's side, — it is a deep blue-black it can be thus recogidzcd with ease as so(»n as it is attem|)lcd lo lie <'rossed. Cradled in the China, sea, the o(Ts|)riug of the e(pialori;il drift and its warm currents among the Philippine Islands, when il passes Pormosa in early sunnner, it is already a. powerful current, ami begins to send olV lessci' currents while proceeding on its norflicni route. . . . Hut the waning j)owor of the Kuro Siwo is indicated by tlic temperatures td' the months of October, November, and Pj»eeend)cr, in Avhich it disa|)|.cars between lat. {{0° jMid 40°. The whole ocean is cooling dt»wn, and the inllueiu'o of the Asiatic shores as refrigerators is apparent ; the N. K. monsoon has set in and continues durinir the lirst three months of t'jc m>w year to bring (h)w-n the condition of the sin- iace of th(> Pacific to that conditio!' of eciuilibrium in which no waniilli is commuiucat(>d from tli(> air to the ocean. The S. W. monsoon Inis ceased to hlow. and the Kuro Siwo as a current disaj)i)ears, althougli its warming and ctiualizing dilVusion continues in a mild way. . . . Tlic North Pacilic Ocean has, practically speaking, no northern outlet; idiil, ))iil will) ir<;('ly (li/>,ihl- X'A «lilC(l inlis. oasior |lll^s;luv jfoiicy. Nntli- loasl. lends III lit in any part It 'V. tlu! Anu'iicaii 1, of [\w r.s. Til 10 • IKANNI/ITK ACCKI'TKh KKOM Mil. HKNNKTT, iJdO Ilciin*^ Straits in hut a nil ilv. hoc, ami is no 1(m1 j^atti of <'ntian(M; into tlm Arctic Ocean." — Hullrtin, American (leo^iapliic^al Scxnety, No. II., IHH.'J. I'lie ol)jc(Us iH^fore Captain DeLonj.^ Iiavinj^ hecni thus stated, and the iinrortiinato expectation ol' success entertaimid hy liim in relian(!« ii|i()ii tli(! autluu-itii^s lirst muned, \\\v. thread of tlu; min'ativ(; is ro- snmcd at San h'rancisco. The ".leannotte " was ytit th(! private prop- erly of Mr. Uennell, l)ut his own judf^UKUit iully aeeorch^d with tho ;i(|vi((! given in the outset hy Lieutenant DeLong, that the shi|» shouhl lie placed in every respect uniUsr Naval Command, and a hill was tluMo- I'orc prom[»tly introduced into Conj^ress that the (lovernimuit should accept the ".leaniuUto " lo'" the purjtosivs of a voyage of exploration. Tlif A<'t authorizing this provided that Mr. HcMUK^tt might uso in fitting licr I'lir her voyage any materials he might hav(! on hand for it; might enlist the necessary crow for s|)ecial service, their pay to he t«unporarily met iVom tho i)ay oH tho Navy, and to ho paid or refunded hy him under the future onh^rs of tho Secretary of the Navy as he might issue tlu^se. The sliip was to proceed on her voyage under the instructions of tho Niivy Department, ami the men were to he suhject in all r(!S|)ec,ts to th(! Articles of War and Navy regidations and discipliiu;. This y\ct, approved Fehruary 'J7, 1871>, was sup[»lemenlal to tlu! onti ap|)rove 1 March IS, 1M7S, whii-h had aiifliori/ed the Secretary of the Treasury "to issuti an American Kegisler to tin; vessel, and tlu; President ol {\m (hiilcd States to (hitail with their own (M)ns(!nt commissioned, warrant, ami petty ol1i(!ers not to exceed ten in numher, t(» a(rt as olhcers to .said vessel during her lirst voyage lo tin; Arctic. Seas." I'lider the authority of these Ads, Secretary Thom|(Son on the; 18tFii iif.Iiinc, 1870, gave to I)eL r 370 AMEIUCAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. un 'IhW h t\ '* " Ten days lator, tlie sliip was put in connnission, when the silk lliur was used which had been made by Mrs. DeLong to be unfuiled when taking possession of any new-found land and when the highest laiitudc was reached. The following account of tlie vessel whicii has iiiudc an historic record of such interest is in place: "The * Pandora' was l)iii|( at Devonport, England, and was lirst commissioned by Commander \V. F. Ruxton, R. N., who sailed in lier for the coast of Africa, on which coast she was on duty for the term of four years, — her only conunissioii in the British Navy. Captain Sir Allen W. Young, R. N. Reserve, i)iir- chased her from the Admiralty for his first Arctic cruise in DSTA, nnd had her rigged at Southampton as a barquentine, and fortified luid pre- pared with all the modern equipments of an Arctic exploring ship. Ij,. made his second Arctic voyage in her as far as Peel Straits in ISTti, returning to Portsmouth, England, in Novend)er of that year. JJoili voyages were severe tests of the strength of the ship ; on the second in lat. 75° 10' N., long. 62° 7' W., he drifted live days helplessly with the pack which drove him uj) into Melville Bay, and from which he eseajied by the change of the wind breaking up the ice, and l)y j)utting on (he ship his wlu)le steam-power. As described by DeLong in his letter to Lieutenant Daneidiower, dated London, June 2, 1878, "the 'Pandora' was of four hundred and > ' ,y tons (builders' tonnage), one hnndred and forty-two feet long, t ' -^-fi.e feet beam; and drew when loaded with her Arctic outlit, about thirteen feet; barque-rigged, rolling topsails and trices up her screw; steams or sails about six knots, and is a neat, tidy little ship. She had been thoroughly repaired and was put in shape, her engine force increased to two hundred horse-power, and she liad a wide spread of canvass." In reply to inquiries recently made by the Naval Court of Inquiry, Sir Allen Young (November 22, 1882) deposed before W. J. Hoppin, Secretary of the U. S. Legation, London, that he had considered the "Pantlura" lit for Arctic service, both as regards strength and model, basing this opinion on his actual experience in lier. and on his service in the "Fox." He believed her to be far su[)erior to the "Fox." It is known that the ship was parted with by the owner most reluctantly. At the Navy Yard, Mare Island, California, during the niontii of fi BS. THE FITTINO-OUT AT SAN FUANCISCO. sn L'li the silk tla^r unt'uilcd when igliest lalitiidi! i\i has iii;ul(> an tlora' was !)iiilt mmandcrW. V. on which cuast r commission in \. lleservc, pur- se in IHT;"), and jrtilied and jtri- oring ship, lit- Straits in iSTii, iiat year. Uoth )n the second in .plessly with tlic rliich he escaped V putting on llie in his letter lo "the 'Tanihira' e), one hmnhcd evv when h)aded , rolling toi»sails s, and is a neat, as put in sliape, , and she had a ly made hy the , 1882) deposed iLondon, that he oth as regards tperience in her. be far sui)ericr 3d with by the the month of January, 1870, a Board of Naval Olhcers examined the '• Jeannette," ani reported in obedience to the orders of the Commandant of the Yard, Commodore E. K. Colhoun, wiiat repairs were needed, with an estimate of their probable cost. Tiie suggestions of the '* )ard which was composed of Chief Engineers M. Fletcher and (i. F. Kutz, Com- mander L. Kempff, and Naval Constructor George W. Much, were niaiie in conference with the Commander, who forwarded a full report to Mr. Bennett, adding the result of his own careful and minute ex- amination. As the iinal decision of her outfit rested with the Secretary of the Navy, Captain DeLong was ordered to Washington, where he arrived February 15, and was most cordially received by Secretary Thompson, who expressed himself as personally and ollicially interested in this Expedition. March 11, Connnodores Easby, English, and Shock, Chiefs of the Bureaus of Construction, of Equipment, and of Steam- engineeering, forwarded under the sanction of Secretary Thompson instructions to tlie Connnandant of the Yard at Mare Island to repair and strengthen the "Jeannette," and furnish to her the su])i)lies still needed for her Arctic cruise. The work to be done on the yacht was to he in accordance with an enclosed memorandum ; the estimatetl cost of repairs and alterations submitted by the Board wdiich has been named exc(!eded $42,500; the outlay finally rose nearly to !iiilOO,000. June 26, a second Naval Board composed of Captain P. C. Johnson, Commander C. J. McDougal, Naval (Constructor G. \V. Much, and Chief Engineers G. F. Kutz and Edward Farmer, reported to Com- modore Colhoun, in reply to his order of the Oth to state whether the re{)airs and alterations recommended by the Board of Survey had been made, whether any other work not embraced in it but considered neces- sary had been done, and whether, in their ()[)inion, the ship had been so far as practicable repaired and placed in condition for service in the Arctic Ocean. The Report was an affirmative reply to the points named by the Commodore as regards the re^jairs and necessary altera- tions. It embraced, however, the statement that, "while she had been repaired and placed in condition for Arctic service, so far as practicable, it was not possible in the opinion of the Board to make her particularly adapted for an extended Arctic cruise." The order convening the If I ?^ iiV m i^ V m M i I ! :; 372 AMKUIOAN KXl'LOItATIONS IN TIIK K'K ZONKS. IJoaid, the Report said, "did not ie(iuiro uny exprossiou of o|iiiiiii|, furtluT tliaii wiiat was thus expressed in its Report." "As it was a private enterprise, and the ship had been purchased and was s;iii>. factory to those most interested in the enterprise, it was rullici a delicate thing to express an unfavorable opinion of it in our ol'liiial eaj)acity." * 'J'hc preparation of the "Jeannette," carried forward durinuf he- Long's absence in Washington under the supervision of Lieutcnam C. W. Chi[)p and Master Danenliower was conii)leted after the vciuin of the Lieutenant by his own innnediate care. Writing to Mr. licinictt. after leaving San Francisco, lie said: "Finally, all work came to an end, and the ship was turned over to me. I am perfectly satisfied witli her. She is everything I want for the expedition, but a little small for all I want to carry in her. We nuist remember, however, we iiic making her do the work of an exj^edition that has heretofore generally required two ships. We have evciy appliance for all kinds of scioiititic experiments. Our outfit is simply i)erfect, whether for ice or navitfa- tion, astronomical work, magnetic work, gravity experiments, or col- lections of Natural History. We have a good crew, good food, and a good shi|) ; and I think we have the right kind of stuff to dare all that man can do." f * Hy tlio Act of Congress, however, and the Secretary's instructions, it woulil scciu she was iui(hM' full Xaval law. t Before the court of inquiry convened at the Navy Department, October 5, ISSi'. iln' deposition of Xaval Constructor Much, made at San Francisco, showed that in the opiiiidu of the IJoani the model or form of the " Jeannctte" was not adapted for ice navi,i;aiioii. Constructor Much agreeing with liieutenant Danenhower's testimony that in his opinion she was scaworlliy hut not lit for extended exploration, being an old vessel of poor niiMlil. constructed of materials, t>f sizes, and a gciUMal arrangement, more suitable for a yaclUllian for an ordinary built nu'rchant-vcsscl of the same displacement. The repairs made in Kn;;- land were for the most jurt superficial, of poor workmanship and inferior material, mi much so that it was found necessary to icnu)ve and replace with better material. Tin Connnandant and all other officers of the yard did all that could he done under the ciivnni- stances to render the "Jeannette" efficient for the contemplated expedition, and whatcvi'i opinions may have existed in reference to her fitness, she proved henself able for dvi'i twelve months towithstand the heavy floes and crushing ice of the Arctic Ocean, and in all probability no vessel, ^.owever strongly built, could withstand such a continued strain. In this last judgment, the finding of the Naval Court of Inquiry named above acioi.is. It recites that " although the weight of the evidence shows that she was not especially idliii''- KS. >on of oiiiiiidii ' "As it was and was saii-,. was ratlicr a in our otVuial ird durin«f Dc- of LieutciKiiii fter the vciiiin to Mr. lU'iiiictt. rk came to an y satisfied witli t a little sniiiU lowever, we arc iofore generally nds of seientilic I* ice or navii,fa- rinients, or ('ol- )od food, and a to dare all that. ons, it woulil Mi'iii )ctober5, ISS-J. ilif I that in tlie opinion for ice naviiiation. tliat in ills opinion [ssol of poor iiKiili'l, Lblefora yadit lli;in [pairs niatlt' i" I'.nj;- iforior niati'i'ial, so Iter material. Tlif |e under tlMM'iicnni- ition,aml wlmtivor l^rself able for ovoi' rrtie Ocean, and in eontinueil slniin. lied altove ai roi.ls. lot especially ;ltlai>t- OFKIdKWS AND CUKW. 1)K1»ARTUIIIC OK THE "JEANNICTTE. 878 .Inly 8, 1870, Captain DeLong reported to the Secretary of the Navy tjial tiie shi}) being in all respects ready for sea, would sail at 8 v. M. of lliat tlay, and would proceed with all despatch to the Island of Onna- laska, and thence to St. Paul's and to St. Michael's, Alaska, at whicii last jKtint it was hoped that some tidings wonld he had of Professor Nor- (lenskiold and his party. Failing in this, St. Lawrence liay in Sihcria would be visited in further quest ; should nothing there i)e learned, tjio course would be through Bering Straits, and thence skirt the coast of Siberia as far westward as navigation would permit. The complement of ollicers and crew embraced the following names : (ioorge W. DeLong, Lieutenant U.S. Navy, connnanding; ('harles W. Cliipp, Lieutenant U. S. Navy, executive oHicer ; .lolui W. Daneidiower, iiiasttM-, U. S. Navy ; George W. Melville, passed assistant engineer; r, S. Navy ; Dr. James M. Ambler, passed assistant surgeon U. S. Navy ; William M. Dunbar, seaman, for special service as ice pilot; Jerome J. Collins, entered on the books as seaman, but for special service as me- teorologist ; Uaymond L. Newcomb, also entered on the books as seaman, for si)ecial service as naturalist and taxidermist ; Walter Lee, machinist ; James IL Bartlett, first-class fireman ; George W. Boyd, second-class tirenian ; John Cole, boatswain; Alfred Sweetman, carpenter; with Seamen W. F. C. Nindemann; Louis P. Noros; H. W. Leach; Henry Wilson ; C. A. Gortz ; P. K. Johnson ; Edward Star ; Henry D.Warren ; II. 11. Kaack ; A. G. Kuehne; F. E. Manson ; H. ILEricksen; Adolph pil in strenjrtli or model for navigation in the Arctic region, the fact that a!i experiei\ced Arctic explorer had voluntarily made two cruises in her to the Arctic Seas stistains the juilsnient and care shown in her selection when last purchased. The condition of the Meannette' on her departure from the port of San Francisco was good and satisfactory to lier officers and crew, except that she was imavoidably deeply loaded, a defect which corrected itself by the consimiption of coal, provisions, and stores." It is imhappily well known that the provisions were reduced in stock not only l)y consumption but, as not un- usual in like eases, by condemnation of some of them on their first arrival from Xew York. In regard to her fitness for the work before her Lieutenant Danenhower's judgminit ex- prp^^sed to the Board was decidedly adverse. The preceding statements seem necessary for ;ui impartial judgment and for demonstrating in connection with the history which fol- lows, that no vessel can be built which can outlive a conflict with the ice of the North Polar Sea. K •I ! a74 AMKHM'VN K\ri,n|{,\TloNH IN TIIK l<"K Zi»NiW. Dressier: ('linilew 'Totij;' Siii^ ; All Sin^; All Sinn: iiimI eniil ln'iivi>i> Wiihcr Sliiirvell, Nelse IvciMnii. iiiiti .Inlin LiiiilcrlMmli. riio full list (lien niiiiilM'rrtI lliirly-lwo |t('is r<>tn(>nil)(M'(>ii dm litiving hiM I lis li I) \h\ <<>ll^ H ;isNii- iMiito on lli(M I'lir Hull in (lie liltle ''.Inniiilii," .liilv, iHTvl: li«> Ii:ii| volnnlccrctj in cIoho rri('ii»lslii|» willi ncLoiijr lor lliis MxpiMlilion, mi iiig, iii'lor luH (U'liU'liiiu'iit Intiii I lie " \H\\[wU)i" in Cliiiia, at Sun Kiaii- I.IKITTKNANT i1 from Uip Naviil Aondomy, .linio 2, 18PS ; iM-oinotoiUo bo KiiHijju. AimU'.i, l.MlH ; Miistor, .lul> I'J, IsTO ; l.iouti'imiit, He. 1S7 Cisco in tlio sprini:^ of 187'.^ M;isl»'r Daiioiiliowcr, as has been saitl, liiid c«uuo round tlio Horn in (his shiji : passed assistant iMifj^iiuMM' Melville had been DeLiuiix's eonirade on the U. S. S. " Laneaster" in tlie South Atlantio. and was the engineer of (he U. S. S. "Tigress" sent out for the relief of (\i]i(ain Hall: passed assis(ant surgeon. .1. M. Ainhler, of Virginia, whose inedi(Ml r(M^>rd in (lu> siM'viee was very higli, filled the importaiK ]H)st of surgeon. The iee-pilot, Dunhar, of Now liondnii. Conn.. haartlv from the Pacitic coast. William Ts'iiKUMuann had distinguislitil * , iiiid l»y Hleinn IfiimelieH loiided down with •h'iUj rili/eiiH. I'iVeiy Hht|) which wiis |iiihh(;iI (Ii|i|i(mI her eohtl'H, iitid o|i|io I'uil I'oiiil ilH gnrriHoii Ktiliiled (lie ".Iciiiiiielle " willi twoii(y-oii(! ^mmh. ,\l ."».;•'> of (lie Mill, I'oiiit. HiiyeH li^lil. wiiH IohI. Kiglit of. Al. eleven it. \v;is JofrfTv, iiiiHty, mid riiiiiy, with ii, <'lio|i|»y Hen. tJiiil; hroko ahomd over nlhcr liiil. TIk! Khi|» wiiH IoikUmI \v,vy det'p, eloviui Ict't nine iiieheH I'nrwiird. Aii^fimt ^» she liiid reiiehed OuiiiiliiHka IhIiumI, Imviiig ^nd|MMl her Wiiy into the hiirlior through iliiek I'o^h mid terrihie tides, iiiniiiii;^f hetvvcen niic liiiiidre(| or more islmids, very iiiuorrcic.tly laid down on the eliarts; suiiic ol' (hem not, ai all. DeliOiig wroto that ^^etlin^r ohservutioiis was dill (if (he (|iiestioii, for when he «!oiild Hvv, the sea, he could not see the lii.ri/oii, and thai his experience j^otting through tlu; passes int() r.criiig Hvn was far heyoiid all previous crooked naviffation he had \vitiicsH(«l. 'I'o the Secretary of (h(! Navy lio wrot(! that from all the I from tli«! northward, the |»revioiis winter had lieen 'xceptiomdly mild one. The revenue (filter " llnsh " had just come h from her cruise to the northward, twenty miles north and east of iiitclligcnco i'e(!(Mve( nil < SI III \('V, '11 IIS sceine< ciisl Cape Silieria., without having encoiintdred any i t(i he news of a most encouraging naiiire. |)cliongd(^plor(!d tIi(MH'(!essity of having loadc^d his ship so deeply at S;ui Kranclsco, since this had made; tlic! progress bo slow under head winds and swMI, that it was doiihtfiil whetlKir he could |.rolit by this (.|icii water in (.lio Anitic soa in the effort to gain a high latitude that season. He wouhl jiroc'eed to St. Micshael's, and If notliing there could lie heard of NordtMiskilMd, from tlienc(^ to St. Tiawrence 1%. At St. Miduud'H the shii) filbid in furtlicr stores, j.urcbased forty (logs, and engaged two Indians, Aneguin an (uivcrs. lO news bad I leeii n (I Alexai, as biinters and dog I' iceived, nor had the schooner '' Kanny J m \i ■■ i y n 1 '\ 1 ^''' mm 4 87t} AMIOIJK'AN KXIM,«»|{ATH)NS IN TMK K'K /ONICS. Ilv(l«<" iinivcti iVoiii SiiM I''raiici,sc(i with ctuil uikI cxlra sIdn'H; lt\ ilij^ (lio ooinmaiMlcr was scrionslv «Mnl)arri'.sstMl. lie niii.st wail lor (,m|. and miisl .still drlay l»v crussiiii;- In Si. LawnMu-c May ; incaiiwliilc H,,, rm»« scasDii was "slippini,' away, wIumi Ii(> iiii^Hil n'acli Krllrll Linul jii,| push on to ||ii< iiDrtliwanl." Tin' kcIiooikt " F. A. Ilydc" ciinii' n, «Mi tlH> iSili iind lolIow«<(l (li(« '*.I(>an«M'lt(r' lo llic Ui\y wliidi n;,s ivai'luMl on du' -'»tli. Mngiiu'cr Mclvillo, iVoni tlial |m»i1, wrol(< : " li ' It hi' ' ? ■■ ■■■ lliJ' it ^ LIKITKNANT JOHN W. DANKNIUnVKH, r.S N. Kiitoroti tlio soivloo, Si>pt. ..'5, 1866; iiromototi to 1h> i:usigii. ,lnly l;t, IS71, In In- M.ist(>r, Scpi. j;. is::!; l.iouli'iiiuit, Auj;. 'J, IST'.i. was vory I'ortunalo for (lio shij) thai sho liad (ho schooiun- to can-y mir extra coal and sturos ovor hoiv. for on the way wc were caiii^ht in n lorribK' pdo of wind, and. owino- to (ho oondiliou of (ho ship, and deeply laden as wo wore, the sea had a oUmu swoop over us. It s(ovo in our forward }>arts. earried away the hridivo. eaved the bulkheads, and in liut just drowned us out. Had we (ho odier s(ulV on board, wo must have fiuniderod. or else i^ot i( overboard in time. We leave hero for I'.asi Capo to-pt. 'JT, to oarrv mir I'aiiglil ill a lip, ami (looi'ly t stovo in our (Is, aiul ill liui wo lunst li;iv(> hero Tor Kii^i ,'C are in oven think that aise a sea. \ve NKWS OK N(Mtl>KNSKir>|J>. will IxMill rif^lit." riu! (■oiinnan
  • i- \vr(it(< (Imt, uH lio lainl into IW'iin^ sea, lie I'imukI the watiT so shallow that a v 877 pit out vU'HV of cry u*r\y a w (•(1 as raisrd in a short time, an ha like a native. The name of this ollieei, as I'ar as cniilil he heard IVoin this native ehiel', was Iliir/tis/i, the true name heiiitr IIS hei-oiii; ,i"^*".V h<'li<'ve(|, that c' Ijeiileiiant Nord(|uist, sp(diiL;lil it his duty to j^o thei'c, althon also found written in Swedish and liiiving on thoni the word Stoekliobu. At 2 r.M. Deliong lield divine service, all hearts being thankful that at last they knew that Nonhuiskiiild was safe, and the "Jeannette" niiiTJit proceed on her journey to Wrangell Laud. In his journal he if it I* r 87H AMIi'.ItH'AN MXIMiMHATtONM IN Tllli; inn '/,ns\W. \Mi)|p, '' ir NiirdfMiHkiiilil IiimI Irlt niiy Kiixl nl n wiittrii |tii|M'i tii Si I.iiwnMM'o lliiy Ml' III rii|M' S«>nl/,«' Kiinu'ii. lie n^nld lmvt> Hii\ti| hmhIi niin-itiiinl y, " IhiI lie ii|Mt|n}.ri/(«w I'm' ||ii> |ii<'|< nl' imy icruiil. | he 'li l,i\ oi' llli> " .l<>illlM(>lli> " hitiimmI, liuwrvt'l, liltitl (o Im'I' |MII|'>Ht> nl mmiIiim" Wrmi^cjl l >ji\lli ritljuwiii^ liny, lli<> Mliiji wim JM'^iiiniii^ In Ih< l'|M^;rl| .,11 Hill lll'l l»y llic rciimrMcJi'Ms |iiii'l<. 'I'lml. iliiy liiw Juiiiiml ciilry wiis: "I liopiii^r Miiil |iijiyiii^ III i^i'l llH>Hlii|t iiilo lliiH. Ah I'nr mm IIic cy* <'nii nm^c in ice, iiimI iml mily iIui'm iI jnnL im if il iMn<>r IiikI lirnkiMi ii|), Iml il iiImh junks iih ii' il, iirvcr uiiii|,| VphI cnliiv I I llljlC lliiil In iliiy wniild iniiKo nil n|ii>iiiti;^r |nr us inln ih, Innij ; In ijny I lin|ii> llml In-ninnnw will puck. Iml llir jiiick iiiij^lil lunik iih up. Tin,; nmrniiig' HJinWH Hniiii' pnnJH nl' lliin ice mid wnlcr, Iml iis I licy nic dianii iici'lrd iiiid we cniiiinl jiiinp llic sliip nvcr n|inl iinl imiM ; llii'v iin- nl' no use yrl In iiH." On |ji(> H||i,Hlill iiiidnniil(ii Hidcr il ill! (>\f('plinnnl hIjiIc nl'IlK' wv llml we nn« iinviii^ jnsl imw.inMl cm ml iipnn llic Sc|)lciiil)cr jrnlcH In Iircnk up llic piici , niid pi>iliii|.'< npcn lends In llcrnid Islnnd, I wniil llic sliip In lie in cnndilimi In muv.' willuml dclny. Mcsidcs, I nni Inid Mini in llic Inllcr purl, nl' ScplriiilM r and cnrly jmrl. nl' OoIoIum- llicrc is ( Inliliidcs ipiili> an Indian snimncr, and I slinll nnl lic^in In cxpiM-l. winlcrin^ in llif pack unlil lliis Indian snir.incr is ^rivcn u cliancc In lilnTnlc ns." Tin' libcralinn, ns is Inn well kimwii, was nnl, In conic. Vel, Del.niiLr al (Ins very pnini did, il wniild se« licst Hint eniild l.c errceied. In Ihr judirnuMil (Tf |li(> Nnval Conrl of Iinpiiiy, " lOillier lie liad In lelmn Id some poll In lli(> soulliwanl, and pass llu' winlcr lhen> in idleness, llnis sacrilieinjx all ehanei-s of pushing' liis lesearelics lo Hie noilliward iiiilil Die Tollowinu: sunniKM-, or else lie niiisl. (Mideavor lo force Die vessel throni^li lo Wrnni^ell Island, llieii erroneoiisly Kn|i|iosc Hll\<'t| IiiimIi nl. 'I'Im' 'Miiv HC III' I nil liiu" [fnnil III Hie time In jiiHliCv liiiri in I'li'Kmiii^ il ; iili'l, il|il<-«>i| IiikI Im- dfiiM' i,iIm I wirtf, lif iiii^lil rniily Inivc iM'cri lliniiirlil \v;iiiliiijr in t||i< lii^ji Miiihlit'H iM'CPMHiirv I"!" III! ex |i|iii(i ." Ill- IiimI l<>ii[r licrmc rxiiKKMrd ||im ,,|,iiiinii lliiil |iiilliti^ n Kliiji inio tlic |i;ii l< \V)k IId' l;mt tliin^^ lo do. (In till' (liiv liDin wliirli III!' jiiiMniil ciih y idiMV<> Idik lirfii filed, lit I f \i. Ilic I'ljr lillfMJ iiiid llif'ic wim KiM'ii II ( liiiiKP In iiiiilvf II. lilllf liciid- wiv towiiid llrii.ld Isliiiid : llin ^' .Iniiiiiil Ic " wmkcd liurd lo loict- lirr <) lie rlimi'd nil V WHS : " I ;iiM In niilKi' U llllrl lly {\i>V^ ll Innlv I, ll(>VV Mil' nl lin \Vln|t<, " I rill! IT jllsl linW, !lll"l I , iitid |M'rli;i|i* idilimi In iiiiivi' •|, nl' Sr|ilrliilirr liililiidr^^ 'inili' inlcriii^ in tin' 'Ciilc ns." 'I'Im' |)('linni^ ill llii^ IITn-li'd. Ill IIm' ji<| In ri'l iini III II idlciii'ss, llius inrlliwiird until ircc llic vessel 1 in III' il liirirt' IMS l)y sit'll.uvs. vn> KilHieieiitlv OKOUUK W. MICLVIM.K. » flMK r-NniNKKII, <• H.N. /Vpii'ilMlml AsslHlniil KriKlii<'inl(!iH l(» W(sir tlieni. The |tosilinii nf the " .leiiiinetle " Wfi» .•stiihliHhed hy (ilmdrvatinii In l.<. 71" -i'/ N., 175" 5' 4K" W. She already iictiled five dogr(!(!S to Htarhnard. :W0 AMKIIICAN KXIMiOUATlONS IN TIIK ICK ZONES. !,i •M:-) ' MU.I t i , 1' h ' ScptcmluM" l:{, iil H a.m. Mt'Mtfiiiiiit Cliipp ami Kn^iui'tT Mel \ ill,., I(!(>-I'ilt)t DiiiiIkh', and the nativ(> Alcxai Htailcd out nii tlii* tloc wjiji ;, .sUmI and 4>iglit dogs, to att('iii))t a Iwiidiiig Mi Herald Island, tuu.ml sonio harhoi' within wliicli Ochong's lingi-iing hopes still lo(d\id : In uUo thought it |)ossil)le that dril't-wood might he found on the Ishnid to ]iel|> out tho winter's I'uel. Hut the |)arty returned without having met with any success lor cither of these olijects; no place eoiild \)r seen oll'ering any protection for a ship, \nn' any ilriflwood. Ali \;ii shot a seal and hnuight it hack in tlie boat, and ou the simmuhI dav following, I)»'Iiong with Melville, (Mii|)p, iind Dunliar, shot tw(t Immis. after Ihei'" escape oi' some miles from the tra])S. The hill of faic was as yet sulllciiMitly <'omfoital)le. lint at tlu' close of the month the ".leannette's " position was far from being sutdi, as sho was still held between the llot^s as in a vise, oontinuously Ium.'KmI over five degrees, and drifting with the pack. In till' four days from thi' 21st to the 24th the drift was twenty miles in the north, one degree west, llerahl Island had entirely disappeared; but by a change in the drift to the southwest, by October Ji the island n>ap])eared in ])laiu sight, bearing south-.soutlieast triU!. On the Ihli land was again seen in the same quarter and now very distinctly; and on the 21st another distinct view was had, the land a|)j)earing as one large island with three ])eaks. Seen again on the 2Htli, the ".Icaii- nette" being in 71° 57' N., 177° M' VV., DeLong l)elieved it to be tiir north side of Wrangell I.aiid, but lie no longer thought it a contiiieiii. it was "either one large island or an archipelago.'" The night of the 28th was beautiful, " the heavens were cloudless, the moon very nearly full and shining brightly, and every star twink- ling; the air perfectly calm, and not a souiul to break the sjx'U. Tiic ship and lier surroundings made a perfect nieture. Standing out in bold relief against the blue sky, every rope aiul spar with a thick coal of snow and frost, — she was siini)!}- a beautiful spectacle. The lout;' lines of wire reaching to the tripod and (d)servatory, round frosteil lumps here and there where a dog hay asleep; sleds standing on end against the steam-cutter to make a foreground for the sliij) ; surroundi'd with a bank (rail high) of snow and ice ; and in every direction as f:ir TIIK srill' AlUtll'T, :)Ht WW Melville, ho t\uv with a Hliiiid, tuu.ird ill lookcil : Ik oil tiic islainl itiinllt liiiviii;^' (lllCl' (ittllld lir ,'()n(i. Alrxai U' siMMHid day li(»l t\V(t licais. i 1(1' I'uic was as Dsitioii was tar 'S as ill a vise. 1 till' ]»ai'k. Ill wiMity niilt's tu y disainnMrt'il; )(•!• H the island On tlic 11th listiiii'tly ; .nid ij)('iiriii^ as oiir h, the ""Jcaii- |mI it to 1)0 till' it a coiitiiuMil, as llic ryr (•oiilil rt'iuli, ii ooiiliiscd, irn-j^'iiliir ice-Held, — would luivo made a picture S(dh)W the berth (huik, smd the water soon stood eiglilccn inches «h'(>|) in the fore-peak and Ihirty-six inches in the fore-hohl, wliilo in the lire-room it was over the Hoor-philes on the starboard si(U>. Tli,. (h'cdv piitnps were at oiictM'iggcd and manned, and by (h(^ iit(h)mil;il energy of MeivilU', as credited to him in DeFiOiig's journal, after live hours' severe hibor, the steam pump was set to work. The tiMnjJeriitmc of the tircvroom was — 'JO'', outsich; of it, it had run (h»wn to — 41°, oiu; of the mercurial thernu»meters freezing solid. Th(^ barometer liad rang(Ml from JlMJ'J!" to .'U)". An attenqtt to out out the ice under tli(« bow by rvcd only to bring the water over the ieo beneath, which by frciczini; elTcctually stoppi>d work. No injury could be detected outside, but tlic C(U"rect judgment was already formed that tlu; ship's tore-foot had been broken otV ov twisted, starting the starboard strakes. On the 'J'Jd. ni midnight, the water still stood nineteen imdies deep at the tirc-ron bilge, and at the step of the fore-mast. 'I'he barometer rose fro 111 ni iM).{)iY to ;U).'2S^'; the thermometer was —28° at midnight, —;?7° iit noon. This tlay, at the urgent advice of the Surgeon, an operation was per- formed on Lieutenant Danenhowi'r's l(>ft eye, and borne with licniir endurance by the patient. To this (>x|>ression DeLoiig, while referriiii;' to the possible neco. sity of another operation, adds : "• My anxieties arc begiuning to crowd on me. A disabled and leaking shi|), a sciioiisly sick iitVicer, and an uneasy and terrible [lack, with the constantly diiiiin- ishing coaI-|)ilc, and at a distanct> of two hundred miles from the n(>;u('si Siberian settlcn\cnt — -tlu'se are enough to think of for a lifc^-timc." Ii w.is some relief to all this that by the 2Tth it was found that the Scwoll pump was making two thousand two hundred and tifty gallons |)cr hour, holdintr the water in check. The leak had been diminish(>(l iVoiii the 28d over one-third. Two of the crew, Nindemann and Swcetman, were w orking all day from 9 A.M. to 11 i'. M. in stullling plaster-of-pa-is aiul I ) s. UETUIIN OF JilGIIT. 3H5 [laiiiH (if walcr 11^ wliicli iiiiil it(t«)(l eiglilccii >)n'-li()l(l, wliilo ird h'u\v.. '\'\\v 10 ih(l()inil;il)li> iiill, iil'tcr livr »c tomjHM'iUurc lowii to — \\'\ hiironu'lcr liiid it!o uikUt tlic l)C(Mi piled ii|i, icih by iVocziiit; tu(si(K>, l)ut llu' •-foot hail l)('('ii On tho 2-2(1, ill the lire-room |el(n" rose iVnm liijjht, — liT' ill ;,sli('s ill th(^ s|)at'eH between franies through holes eut in the ceiling jilidvc the berth (Uick on eaeh side ; their work hooii (liiiiini.siieil the IciiK loiir hundred and iil'ty gallons per hour. Tlic night of the Art^tie regions had given to eaeh one of the sliip's coin puny (lie usual oleaehed ajtpearanee, but with the exee[)tion pearan(!e of tiio sun. All hands liinitMl <»ut to enjoy tlit; pleasing novelty of seiung genuine sun-shadows fiirllic lirst lime in seventy-one days, and, although the glare at first iiiiidc the eye blink like an owl, Deliong could not get enough of the |i|('iis;iiit sight. The light was specially cheering, for when the sun was nil ilic meridian to Ww southward, the full moon was on the meridian ;it lilt' northern horizon so that lor twenty-four hours there was sun- Ijolil or full-moonlight all the time. 'j'he month of February still found at work the steam-pumi» which was to be in very successful use till May. It made forty strokes a iiiiiiutc, pumping out two thousand two hundred and lifty gallons an lidur. ( )ii the 1st and 2d of the month two large bears were killed, the stom- ach (d" the larger one containing nothing but several small stones njsem- hliiig pieces of slate. Impelled by hunger, he had tried to get on board ship, attracted by the meat of the lirst bear hung uj> to a girt-line. On the (5th of the month, in measuring the thickness of the lloe, it was found that another lloe had shoved in under it, which gave DeLong reason to thiidc that this hiid been the ease all around the shii), and that the control of the leak had been due to the underlying Hoes t)f ice unit- inn- hy freezing and lowering the water-head in the vicinity of the leak. Til this record DeLong's journal added the sadly pro})hetic words, "If this 1)1' the case, we shall have our hands full at the breaking up." I')y the ir)th the pumping had been so perfected as to hold the water ill clicck without resorting to pumps to be worked by the main boiler, and this had very encouriigingly reduced the consumption of coal to lour hundred ])ound8 per day only, in })lace of the one thousand or one tiioiiHiind two hundred which would have been consumed by the main huilcr furnaces. But the troubles seemed to thicken. The water forced i 386 AMEUICAN EXPLORATIONS IN THE ICE ZONES. |3J ll'l hi.ih i ■ 'f«!. its way throiigli the filling botweeu the iViiines to the i)erth-(leck, iiml,-. ing it wet, sloppy, uiid uiiheiiltht'ul. Sweetiiuiii purtiiilly succeedi 4 j.i stop[)iiig tills by putting in more lilling, building ii little bulklK-id under the berths, and boring a hole into the deek to let the wati r ulV into the fore-peak. On the IDth DeLong wrote: " All our hopcd-inp explorations, and perhaps discoveries this coming summer, seem siippinir away from us, and we have nothing ahead but taking a leaking slii|) to the United States. At the best 1 do not like to contemplate any lint her accident, although in our position almost anything might hai>pcii to us." On the 28d, Washington's birthday was celebrated by dnissino- the shi]) with American ensigns at the mastheads and llagstaff, and Mie Union Jack forward; the 22d had been Sunday. Beyond lliig-hoistiin'- there was no holiday, for there was too much work to be M' • I n M SUMMER IN THE PACK. The ninth chapter of Mrs. DeLong's voyage of the " Jeannette" bears the sad title, "A Frozen Summer, June-August, 1880." The hopes of release for the ship from her icy cradle seemed well grounded h\ the thermometer reading 37°, with a fall of rain on the first day of -Inne. Fires were discontinued in the cabin and berth-deck, and the record could be made that there was a gradual resuming of ship-shape pro]ioi- tions to be ready for a start northward and eastward, or northwju-d and westward, whichever '"he ice and the winds would permit; and DeLniitj had been again hoping strongly day after day for some indication of a coming liberation. The decks were rapidly clearing, and he thouglit he was surely approaching the time when nothing would remain hut to 1 ' ird that cunics it Danenliowor, rea of ocean, at nd the obsevva- it ill that area, Dh and chaiaclur It is luiitlcr i»l" euteuaut Chipp, ;urbance8 of the e made by the [ observations of ill the wreck of I the boiler tuhe- r great credit on 3ne hundred and tal drift was one average tevnper- FALSK HOPES. 391 f' the "Jeannette" .880." The hopes ^ell grounded hy firstday of -June. ;, and the reiMud hip-shape propm- »r northward aiul lit; and DeLnng [e indication of a id he thought lie Id remain but to hang the rudder and make sail for some satisfactory result of the cruise. Bui, from the lirst day of the month to the longest of the year, fogs, snows, and gales were almost the daily log entry. The drift, contiary to all expectation, had been generally to the southeast. For more than nine months the ship had been driven here and there at the will of the winds. On the 30th her position was 72° ID' 41" N., 178° 27' 30" E. iifty miles south, 9° E. of her place on the (irst. She was heeling 4° to starboard (3° all winter), and her doubling on that side was about four inches above the water. From the crow's nest it could be seen that she was in the centre of an ice-island, a lane of water in some places a quarter of a mile wide, surrounding her at the distance of about a mile. Much effort had been made to liberate the screw without suc- cess. The drift on that day was only one mile. The journal of July 8 makes special reference to the thickness of the Hoes around and underneath the " Jeannette." It recites the facts, that '' in September, 1879, after ramming the ship through forty miles of leads, she was i)ushed into a crevice between two heavy Hoes subsequently found to be thirteen feet thick ; a dep'th caused by the overriding and uniting of one floe with another by regelation under prtissure. When she was pushed out into open water November following, she was afloat, but the next day, iced in." By January 17, 1880, the ice had a thickness of four feet around the vessel, later measurements being ren- dered impossible by the confused massing which took place two days afterward. As the leak had now almost subsided more firmly and cor- rectly, DeLong believed that he was buoyed up by a floe extending down and under the keel. "Let us hope," he wrote, "that one of these days the mass will break up and let us down to our bearings." How sad these bearings were to prove ! The forefoot was irre- trievably wrenched. The shij) must sink immediately on the " break- ing up." During the remainder of the month of July, and throughout August, the monotonous record of the previous months of routine duty on board shij), and of drift with no release from the ice, remained with scarcely a variation from day to day. August 17, DeLong writes: "Our glor- ious summer is passing away; it is painful beyond expression to go 892 AMERICAN KXPLOUATIONS IN THK ICK ZONES. ):' ' i i^ roiiiul the ice in the morning and see no cluinge since the niglit hcfKic. and to hjok the hist thing tit night at the sain»} thing you saw in tlic morning. . . . High as our tenii)erature is (34°), foggy weather a (hiily occurrence, yet here we are hard and fast, with ponds here and ilici,. • two or tln-ee feet deep, with an occasional hole through to the >,.;!, Does the ice never find an outlet? It has no regular set in any iliitc- tion north, south, east, or west, as far as J can judge, but slnwU surges in obedience to wind pressure, and grinds back again tn uii equilibrium when the pressure ceases. Are there no tides in ilijs ocean? . . . Full moon or new moon, last quarter or first quarter, the ice is as immovable as a rock. ... It is hard to believe that an iiiiiicuc. trable barrier exists clear up to the Pole, and yet as far as wc lunc gone, we have not seen one speck of land north of Herald Islaiul." The average drift for the month had been to the southenst. Sei)tember 1, the ship at last was on an even keel, and this liml occurred very quietly and vv^ithout shock; one or two large chunks mI' ice rose to the surface and then all was still. The shin was vit immovable, her keel and forefoot being held in the cradles. Alicr sawing under the forefoot five or six feet, in the hope of getting oimc more properly afloat, it was found that more water came in, and ilu' sawing must be arrested. The well-grounded apprehension tixisted that the broken stem or sprung garboards were firmly held in the ite. find that work on the ship would only tend to open the rent still nioiv widely. With the prospect of a second winter in the pack, and wilii but fifty-three tons of coal, there was no desire to go back to steam pumping, from which the ship had been relieved by the use of the quar- ter-deck pump which was now bringing by the hand one hundred and fourteen gallons per hour. The comfort of being on an even keel was very great, but the hope of keeping the ship afloat if she should rcarli open water, was to all very questionable. Before the close of ilie month, the idea of open water was abandoned, and preparations made for a second winter in the pack. What gave the most concern and anxiety was to make it possible for a readiness to abandon the ship suddenly in case of disaster. As long as enough of the vessel should remain for shelter, it was preferable to camping on the ice; and the !•:«. THE AUCTIC NIGHT. 31)3 you saw ill I lie weather a tive picture of moon, stars, ice, and ship, and unluckily photography cannot come into pl.ay in this ten.ipera- tiu'f to supply a real [)icture. Imagine a moon nearly full, a cloudless sky, brilliant stars, a pure white waste of snow-covered ice, which seems firm and crisp under your feet, a shij) standing out in bold relief, every ro])e and thread plainly visible, and enormously enlarged by accumulations of fluffy and down-like frost feathers; and you have a crude picture of the scene. But to fill in and properly understand the situation, one must experience the majestic and awful silence which generally prevails on these occasions, and causes one to feel how tri- iHng ami insignificant he is in comparison with such grand works in nature. The brightness is wonderful. The reflection of moonlight from bright ice-spots makes brilliant effects, and should a stray piece of tin he near you, it seems to have the light of a dazzling gem. A win- dow in the deck-house looks like a calcium light when the moonlight strikes it at the proper angle, and makes the feeble light from an oil- 894 AMKUICAN KXl'LOllATIONS IN THE ICK ZONEH. i t :: '■ lam]) within, hcoiu ridiculous when tiie ungle is chunked. Stuiulintr ,,,j,, Iinndred yards away from thu ship onu has u scene uf the gniiidcst wildest, and most awful beauty." On the followin}^ midnight, he says, "the scene was ahnost woitli the imprisonment tliat accompanied it. One half the sky was covi rod by cumulo-stratus clou