IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /, / 'Q. / a i< i/i fA 1.0 I.I 1.25 ill ■ 116 1.8 U 11.6 ^ w m 0% '^w I fw <-> ^^ # '*,. .(•?; // oy^. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (7,6) 872-4503 iV / ! -f' ( I f THE MORTIMER OTTAWA li i f 1 introdiiGtory. a; ANTICIPATION. Ah, what a joy 1 the time has come, , When with my rod, my dojr and gun, I to Canadian wiUls reiniir Aiul lead a life that'.s free from care : In nature's ra])t enihrace we're one, The livelong day, from sun till sun. " 1 am an old man now, or, at any rate, am not what you would call a young man by any means. I have not the buoy- ant spirits of the younger generation, so prone to cast a glamotir abotit all new scenes and experiences of a pleasing nattire. But I tell you, our trip over the Iii; termed, M;-r.W(7/(7/r>-, "The Si)ortsman's Paradise." The j)urpose of this little book is to make known to as many as ])ossible of such of our humanity as are seeking new lields for vSporl and iMeasure, where this district is, its claims t(j their attention, how to j^et there, ami what to do and .vhere to jj[o, when there. And particularly is it desired to brin^ to the notice of all who are in ill luallh, "run down," or sufferiii;.^ from that distressinj.^ ailment, " hay fever " -in fact, to all who need to recui)eratc -its paramount advantages as ii Iieallh resort. Whether it be for sjjort and i)leasure <-' inlx'iiiiaii, 11(1 lisli ol' was only (1 ice, and II Maltavv.i ill Rapids, ily is now niskamiti^ raiadisc." low n to as king new s claims lo (1 .vlierc to inj^ to the sufferinj^f lo all who dlh resort, ay seeker, r, a conple life in the ol" nature, d /est and r the vaca- l physics— I ,i I.AKI', ll'.MISKAAr M. Ill < I \l (ll'IMKMN I A l( M . While for the student, ulial more CDnscrves his hodily and mental powers than the leaving, I'or a pciiud, his necessary and irksome tasks .■' I lis lime is not lost, hut savi-d ; he gains insight into what, to him, is a closed hook, and returns to his studies with rel'reshed and hro.idened mind : ' 'I'm sil (Ml iDik'i. lo iniisc (>■(•! Ilonil aiirl Icll. 'I'll slowly I r;i((- t lie I'oicsl s vlliidy si'(-r.C. W'JiiTi- I liiii).',s t li;il own iiol iiiiin's (loiiiiiiioii dwll. A I 111 111 Ol 1,1 1 loot li.'illi lic'ef Ol |-;il(-lv liciii ; 'I'd cliliil) I III' 1 1 iickli'ss llloillll.'iiil II n illlsi I'll. Willi tlu- wilil Hock lll;il in-'il iiri'ijs :i folil ; AIoik; o'er sleeps ;iiii| roaming I'mMs lo lean ; 'I'luK is not soliliide ; 'tis txit to liolil (."oiu'crse with naliiic's cliarnis.'iiinl \ii w licr sloi'cs iiiiioiril ." lu ON OTTKR TAIL CRK1';K. Hnlf way up Lake TetniskatuiiiK, one of the many octnpns- like arms of 'IVmaj^'aininj^ I.aki' sln-tclus from the west to with- in 20 mik's of 'IVmiskamiiij^ Lake. " Ik-autiful, " " rharminj^," " enchanting," are some of the adjectives used when s])eaking of this I.ake. And many, after seeing it, finding it (UHicult to express all they feel in its ])raise, simply say it mnst he seen to realize its charms, which words fail them to illnstrate. l-Vom Temiskaming, through I.ady iCvelyn ]1iia to Ottawa (via New York and Montreal) 5.S6 " Washington to Ottawa (via New York and Montreal) 736 " Washington to Matlawa (via New York and Montreal) ..... 934 Haltiniore to Mattawa (via New York and Montreal) 892 Haltiniore to Ottawa (via New York and Montreal) 694 " Rochester to Mattawa (via HnfTalo, Toronto and Carletoii Jet.).. 567 Buffalo to Mattawa (via Toronto and Carletoi. Jet.) 498 " Sault Ste. Marie to Mattawa 307 " lealingon )n. This il experi- inarshes ; i to suni- iir, laden e respira- ;d (.hat a ihould be Temiska- lu ininie- ihysician, s to hay lat afflic- lown to a i' ET inknown. IS are run the heal- ated with niong the : obtained 496 miles 454 " 5^6 '• 736 " 9M " 892 " 694 " 567 " 498 " 307 " TABI.E ShEW.XO TEMPERATrRK, AND CLOmED DAYS, FOR THE SeV- KRAL MONTHS HERE MENTIONEP. HaILEVIH-RV IS ON IaKE I,AKE Temiskamino. (Frqm iMetkorolocical Service ok Can- ada, Report for 1898.) JUNE. Name of Place Mean Haileybury f-° Gravenhurst <. ' ; Toronto ;.■;;; g-f Ottawa 2a'^ Quebec ^'^ New York ,' ,' V^'n Boston ' ^^9 Philadelphia....;:; 4^1 JUIvY. Haileybury 6,7 Oravenhur.st ;;;; '' Toronto Ottawa Quebec New York...;..;;'; Boston Philadelphia .....;; Haileybury Oravenhur.si Toronto Ottawa Quebec New York . . ; Boston . . Philadelphia AUGUST. 61.6 65.4 (.9.7 67.3 64.6 74-3 73-1 76.8 .So.S 41.0 89.0 41 .0 96.0 46-,=; «5.o 4-'. 6 83.0 44.6 90.0 60.0 94 -o ."iS.o 93 •« 60.0 vSKPTKMPEK. Haileybury , Gravenhurst Toronto Ottawa Quebec New York . . . Boston Philadelphia 57 •9 59 .6 62 8 61 ■ .■se I 68 9 66 2 i 71. 4 85.8 91.0 97.1 90.0 85.2 94.0 92.0 96.0 31.7 31.0 38.3 32.2 36.0 49-0 44.0 51.0 OCTOBER. Haileybury 42 i Gravenhur.st ,-ca Toronto ^^.b Ottawa ;.;;;;;;;;;; iti Quebec ^0.3 New York H'l Boston ^l-° Philadelphia.... j ^^g .11 Mean j: Daily Range. 33-0 21.7 42.0 23.3 4,3.6 18.7 45-1 2t.2 42.5 18. I 53.0 13.0 .30.0 16.0 53.0 J 19.0 Clouded 6 I 2 3 II 4 II 8 days. 37.8 22.3 I days. 33 -o 27.9 42.1 22.8 I 41.0 24-7 2 40.0 20.8 7 37 14.0 Q 33.0 16.0 q .37-" 18.0 12 IS. 4 21.6 22.0 20.0 16.0 12.0 i6.o '-5-0 ,■5 2 I I 7 10 10 9 (!avs. 18.7 21.2 19-3 22.5 15.6 15.0 18.0 17.0 3 days. o 2 3 6 9 7 7 76.5 16.0 15-7 82 , 23.0 13.4 77.0 26.0 14.9 79-8 27.9 13-7 72.5 24.8 12.6 80.0 38.0 14.0 85.0 34-0 14.0 83.0 35.0 15.0 days. 4 7 6 '4 12 12 12 H O 12 ' s < < H H O Ottawa. At Ottawa, as a starting point, the Canadian Pacific Rail- way is boarded, the destination being Temiskaniing Station, for which place all baggage should be checked and tickets pur- chased. But a few words as to where we are. This city, the Capital of the Dominon, and where is the Vice-Regal residence of the Governor-General, is the centre of the large lumbering interests of the Ottawa Valley. The Chau- diere Kails exemplify the im- mense water power available, of a part of which large manufac- turing concerns have made use. The Parliamentary and Govern- mental offices are located in magnificent structures, com- mandingly situated on the high bluffs forming one of the banks of the "Grand" River, the name the noble Ottawa was known by in old-time days. And grand and nobly pictur- csqi:e it truly is from its source — almost north of Ottawa — as it flows on its varied course ; now through narrow gorge in wild career ; then in majestic leap o'er rocky ledge ; and again in calm and broad expanse ; running west thro' unknown wilds ; then south, and finally east to its out- lets — one into the St. Lawrence, at the head of, and the other into the same river, at the foot of, the island on which Montreal stands — a total flow of ^'oo miles. Ottawa is charmingly situ- ated on high ground, well laid out, with an electrical service second to none on the continent. The Parliament Buildings are well worth seeing, the Library (a connected structure), especially, being a gem in architectiu-c. The scenic view from the grounds near the Library is equalled by few places in the Dominion. For many reasons, Ottawa is a place of great in- terest, and well worthy of a visit. Though here taking Ottawa as our starting point, we will add that Temiskaniing can be as easil}' reached from Sault Cte. Marie and all points south and west, by the Canadian Pacific Railway ; from Toronto, and all points south and east as far as Ti"enton, by Canadian Pacific Railway and Grand Trunk Rail- way ; from Kingston, by Kingston & Pembroke Rauway and THE LIBRARY. 13 Canadian Pacific Railway ; from lirockville, by Canadian Paci- fic Railway. All other points east and south will find Ottawa the convenient place from which to start. A table of distances will be founil on another page. Leaving Ottawa, after a diversified run of 198 miles — now skirting the wide waters of the Ottawa, with the Laurentian Moinitains as a distant background ; then thro' beautiful pas- toral scenery, alternated with thriving towns and villages ; then again the gaze meets the placid — mayhap, unruly, wind-toss'd — Ottawa, along the bank of which a rapid course is taken. And with ever-changing scenes, we run amid mountains, rock, swift rivers, and calm lake , till at last we again behold the Ottawa River — deep, narrow, and confined— for now the Lauren- tian range (the distant background of an earlier scene), form its precipitous side on the Quebec shore. Thus, thro' now bold and rugj^jed scenery, our course lies along the river bank until Mattawa is reached, at which place passengers change cars for Temiskaming. \ Mattawa, At the confluence of the Ottawa River from the north and the Mattawa River from the West, is a distributing centre of the lumber trade, very picturesquely situated, and of great interest from a geological jwint of view. An historical fact equally MATTAWA. interesting, is, it was here, in 1615, the noted Champlain left the Ottawa River, ('on his search for the short passage to China) on finding its course was from the North, and followed Mattawa River Valley and Nipissing Lake to Georgian Bay. From here 14 I the proposed Ottawa and ( Feorj^iaii Hay Ship Canal will leave the Ottawa, and following the valley of the Mattawa River, and a valley or depression in the land — once the presntned outlet of Nipissing Lake — will enter that lake. In Mattawa, the Hudson Bay Company and other merchants have general stores, where hunting parlies can he provisioned, canoes, guides, and all recpiisites pertaining to a properly efpiipped expedition, pro- cured without trouble. Mr. Colin Rankin, late lector of the Hudson's Bay Co. for this district, resides in Mattawa — a gentleman well known throughout the Ottawa Valley ; who is a fund of information and stoty, and knows the country well — by canoe and otherwise — from Lake Superior to I^abrador. ni.VIL S OARDliN, SKVKN LEAGLH I-AKi:. After breakfast, procured at any of the hotels — of which there are several - the train is boarded for Teniiskaniing. And now connnences one of the most picturesque and interesting railway journeys for the distance, some 39 miles, there is in the Dominion east of the Rocky ^Mountains. The line is built on the east side of the Ottawa River, winding in and out, as it fol- lows strictly the Ottawa's course and contour. In places the rails are laid on roadbeds blasted out of the face of cliffs tower- ing perpendicularly more than a hundred feet above the train, and beautifully crestetl with trees and shrubbery. Then again the train follows its sinuous course along the base of mountains clothed with verdure, the Ottawa always with us on 15 one side — here flowing placidly in broadened stream, as we skirt the shore of vSeven IvCague Lake for iH miles, and again in many tumultnoiis and angry rapids. The scenery on both sides of the river is always grand, in many places majestic. There are five rapids in the conrse of the Ottawa between Mat- tawa and Temiskaming, tlie last of which — the Long Sault — is NEAR THE NARROWS— SEVEN LEAGUE LAKE. byi miles long. The other principal rapids are La Cave, Les Erables, and Mountain. Fish are alnindant in all these waters. The scenery of the valley of the Ottawa, between Mattawa and Temiskaming, has been described as equal to the Valley of the Rhine, with the added beauties of the wild waters of its rapids to the good in the Ottawa's favor. TernisKaming Station Is at the lower end of the Lake so-named, and at the the head of the Long Sault Rapids. (The Indian word, " Temi- isk-kami-ng," means — in that very expressive and descriptive language — "where is deep and shallow water," from the fact that in all bays on the lake between the points, the water is always shallow, the bottom sloping very gradually until near an imaginary line from point to point, when it at once shelves down very steeply to many feet, in many places into the huii- i6 TEMISKAMING STATION. dreds. ) "The I/innsden Line" of steamers make regular con- nection with the Canadian Pacific Railway here, leaving for all points on the Lake. There are comniodions warehouses and offices built for the accommodation of the passenger and freight traffic, as well as a modern hotel called ii The Bellevue HroUse," at the Temi- Tiptive le fact ,'ater is il near shelves le huu- Which stands embowered in trees and hi rubbery overlook- ing the Lake and station, and within a short distance of both. Having registered, we note that it is a substantially built house, well furnished and carpeted throughout in first-class style, electrically lighted, has baths, etc., and supplied by gravitation with hot and cold spring water on all floors. In connection therewith, though in a separate building a few feet distant, is a Recreation Hall containing billiard room, bowling alley, sam- ple rooms, etc., while the upper storey is fitted out as a large ball room or concert hall with accessory rooms, and all electri- cally lighted. The recreation rooms being in a separate build- ing ensures a home-like quietness to family parties staying at the Hotel proper. Lawn tennis and golf are also among the recreations available. With many tourists and sportsmen contemplating taking one of the many canoeing trips that can be made through un- surpassable scenery on lakes adjoining Temiskaming, (of which mention will be made later on ) the fact of having to leave their families behind is a consideration and a drawback ; but at 17 "The Btllevue " they can leave their " dear ones" while they take the trip, secure in the conviction of their safety and well- being. In no other ])lace in Canada can the tourist and sportsman find such advantages as at Lake Teniiskaniing. The Lake is easy of access ; there is a wcll-apj)ointed and luxurious modern H 'I. O B H > fi iJ iJ U K hotel ; fish and game in abundance at its door — as opposed to the many over-run sunnner resorts where fish and game are mythical and legendary ; travel on Lake by steamer, with appointments equal to the best, through scenery unequalled in the Laurentian type, surpassing, it is claimed, even the beauty P' ec T 18 .Jj ft .d b, ^k f J ^- ,,,...,, ^' ^mI p " t. . ^jii^ A. 4.. -^ E. r'^H^lH \ 1 » < * '\ v ■1 ' — .%.: ,r-. I^IBK&^ 1# ■^ \ Z?"^' '\^.^" » /" ACROSS TEMAOAMINd— KORTY-TWO ISf.ANI S IN I'ICTrKK. of the far-famed vSa^uenay. And to those who love canoe ex- cursions, Teniiskaniini,', with its munerous by-ways to other lakes, affords numberless routes through unlimited tracts of ever-changing scenery, with ever-present fish and game in abundance. p o / ■■M The '' Meteor." Boarding this steamer (one of the boats of "The Lumsden Line," ) for a trip over the Lake, it is soon realized that it is not a boat of the common run, but a speedy, staunch, steel com- posite hull, full-powered, up-to-date passenger steamer, fully equipped in all respects, and electrically lighted throughout. The saloon and commodious staterooms are well furnished, and, 19 o ei < y, o H o u o pi! !<< U M •<; >-) CL. t> O «'. M US o vvithnl, Strictly up-to-date. The steamer service is of n first-claj^s description. Leaving the wharf our course is nearly north ( the Lake lyinj^ gei.erally north and south), for 12 miles over the narrowest l)art of the Lake. The water for that distance has a gentle flow and deep, and is environed by high hills, and, in many l)laces, precipitous clifTs, clothed in nature's green. The Lake marks the boun- dary line between the two Trovinccs. A mile from the wharf we pass through Colton's Narrows, about 170 feet wide, and a good fishing place. A mile far- ther up we see Crab Is- land, a small island (cov- ered at high water), just ojiposite a depression in the hills on the Quebec shore — the-now dry bed of a stream of pre-historic days. The island, a noted trolling and rod-fishing place, is a half-way spot on which moose and deer stand when crossing at this — a favorite place — from one shore to the other. On the Quebec shore, east of Crab Island, and distant one mile from Temiskaming Lake, is Trout Lake, a sheet of limpid water abciut lyi miles long and a half to a mile wide, which empties into Gordon Creek about two miles above Temiska- ming Station. The lake , D-date. :e is of i])lion. rf our north i.crally , for 12 irowi'St . The listancc »\v and jncd by 11 many s cliffs, s j^'reen. leboun- the two ilc from through s, about 1 a good mile far- Crab Is- nd (cov- :er), just ^ssion in Quebec dry bed ;-historic , a noted d-fishing vay spot and deer )ssing at place — I to the Quebec ,1) Island, nile from Lake, is sheet of iK.ut lYz half to a 1 empties .•ek about Temiska- The lake 1 I /> abounds in large grey trout and other fish, and there is good Tistl- ing all the way up the Creek, from its outlet on (lordon Creek, to the ri waters keep A course of lively pleasure." is on the Quebec shore. All three furnish good speckled trout fishing a short distance from their mouths up to their source, while the lakes empt3'ing into Green and Opemicon Creeks ON wiiiTH cri;i:k. abound with the same fish {sal mo fontina/is), some of them as long as 20 inches. The writer has not caught so large a speckled trout in White Creek, but they are plentiful in size up to 12 inches. No doul)t there arc larger ones in favorite haunts not yet fished. In White Lake, one of the sources of White Cre«.k, are to be found large lake whitefish and salmon trout, as well as pike, dore, bass, etc. The Fishing- The sources of Opemicon and Green Creeks are several lakes, each fed by numerous springs, through Avhose waters of transparent emerald tint the trout can be observed disporting themselves at a depth of twelve or more feet, ere they rise to the fly or baited hook. Marine growths cover the bottoms of tlie.se lake waters, among the foliage of which the beautiful speckled trout finds the greater portion of its food. This descrip- tion applies to the many lakes in this neighborhood, tributar}- to these and other creeks. A good waggon road — by which all 22 le outlet id Green hose led trout r source, II Creeks f them as speckled up to 12 aunts not le Crevk, it, as well e several waters of lisporting ley rise to ottoms of beautiful s descrip- ibutary to kvhich all supplies in old days were brought into the country— com- mences at the lake shore near the mouth of the Opemicon Creek, and extends back into the country to the south-west for a distance of more thnii twelve miles, where it ends on another road running at right angles to it, both now unused. There is an old lumbering depot and farm on the road (through which Opemicon Creek passes) half a mile from Temiskaming Lake. TROUT FISHING— OPEMICON CREEK. With that exception the country is wholly unsettled and in nature's wildness. Numerous old chantier roads help to make a shooting trip all the more enjoyable b}' lessening the hard work of getting through the bush. The surrounding country on both sides of the Ottawa are favorite grounds of moose and deer, and partridge, or grouse, are plendous in the 93 ^4 bush and on the hush roads, which extend in all directions on both shores of the lake for its whole extent. The gun is always a necessary adjunct to any fishing trip in these regions, for the partridge is a dainty morsel not to be despised in the camp iiiisinc, especially if it is toasted before the camp fire on a forked stick ; and likewise the hare, and cloves connninj^k'd with a proportionate (|uantity of water, and duly cooked, is always acceptable. Perchance a deer or a moose wanders down to the lini]M(l waters and gazes on the, perhaps, too-intent discijjle of Izaak Walton, and then disgust- edly takes to the bush again, " wondering wh.it manner of man is this ; " or, again, he might fall to the unerring aim of the one who has one eye on his fly and the other one " all around " him. A bear is liable at any time to be unexpectedly seen. CAMP OK OTTAWA 1 KTY, OlMCiMICON. only to disappear as quickly if not promptly "stopped;" or the courageous mink may lay claim to a share of the fisher- man's " bag " and put it under tribute. The writer has had that experience while trout fishing, his " catch " as caught be- ing placed on a forked withe. He noted his count was less than his "catch," then scratched his head and fished. But his count, instead of increasing, decreased, so he watched. (The catch was on the ground under a fallen tree, sheltered from the sun.) Presently he noted a mink come up out of the water and go to the fish. And while noting proceedings, another mink appeared out of the water, which also went to the fish, both en- deavoring, and successfully, to drag the whole catch to the water. The writer then caught hold of the withe, but that did :tions on ig trip in lot to be .d before lare, and ater, and eer or a s on the, I disgust- r of man in of the around ' ' illy seen, i(.(l ; " or le fisher- has had lught be- was less But his (The from the ater and Her mink both en- li to the that did a. not deter them in their endeavors to secure the fish, and they had to be driven or7 with a stick. Afterwards they made sev- eral attempts to secure the fish, undeterred by the writer's presence. The possibilities before mentioned necessitate the gun being taken along on all fishing trips, however short. In most of the known " resorts," when on a fishing excursion, it is fishing, pure and simple — if there are any fish to be caught. In the Temiskaming lyake country the sport is diversified, which adds to the enjoyment of each daily and shorter trip. The waters of both Opemicon and White Creeks, for some miles up to their lake sources — still, rapid, and falling waters — afford to the scientific or skilled " fly caster" all the sport he can desire in trout fishing. The "moods" of the trout are AN HOUR S TROLLING peculiar. At certain times in lake or still water they are difli- dent about taking the fly, though a cray-fish usually brings them ; but in the rapid waters of these and other creeks seldom indeed is it they will not rise to the fly or grass-hopper. On many occasions in trout fishing trips in this section by the writer, the " bag " has been limited only by the carrying capa- city or wants of the party. At the Opemicon Narrows — where Ontario and Quebec Provinces are only a couple of hundred feet apart — there is good fishing, either by trolling or baited hook, and at certain times good bass fly-fishing, though the ba.ss are there at all times, and are caught by trolling, and by hook and line. Here the stream runs swiftly, causing the blood to circulate the -ift 25 quicker ere the boatman has his craft in the still water a1)ove "The Narrows." The fish to be caught here — and they are there yet — comprise maskinonge, pike, dore or pickerel, small- mouthed bass, sturgeon, channel catfish, Jand in spring and fall, lake white-fish, which are plentiful in the deep waters of the lake, but cannot be got during the summer months. The list of fish mentioned are common to all parts of the lake, to which may be added the sheepshead ("to be caught at mouth of Monl- reai River) and perch, fresh water herring, ling, eel, chub, and an occasional grey trout. The accompanying picture is of a catch of fish — only a com- mon one — by a couple of members of a cami)ing party of ladies A COMMON "catch." and gentlemen from Ottawa, who say they spent two of the most enjoyable weeks they have ever experienced, while camp- ing near "The Narrows." Their camp is shown in another picture. I say a " common " catch, as twice as many fish as are shown in the picture have been caught at one time by a couple of the "boat hands" in little less than an hour and a half. The photograph " fiend " of the camping party took a picture of another of their catches, equally as large, in which black bass predoniinated, but did not improve his would-be pic- ture by taking another scene on the same plate. The black 1)ass run from 2^ lbs. to 5 lbs. weight usually, and have been caught weighing 7 lbs. Another half-tone represents a 26 ter above they are rel, sinall- r and fall, ers of the The list , to which I of Moil I - chub, and nlyacoiii- ; of ladies wo of the lile caiiip- 11 another iiy fish as time by a lour and a ty took a , in which ild-be pic- riie black and have presents a I flash-lijfht view of one hour's trollin>( of an Ottawa schoolboy on the last afternoon of his vacation. But to return to the continuation of the trip up the Lake. I have dwelt on a description of the fishinj^ in lakes and creeks around Opeinicon, not because they are superior toothers below and farther up, but to give a synopsis of the experiences to be had on mostly all the lakes and creeks tributary to Teniiska- ming, and in the bush around them. The country behind the gi'eater portion of the shore line of Teniiskaming is known to but few other than Indians, and many great areas have not their lakes and streams marked on the accompanying map because they have not yet been explored by surveyors. Tliere are surer places, though less known than Opemicon, for the larger game, where the novice will not fail in getting his heart's wish — the "bringing down " a moose — jn-oviding he calms his palpitating heart, controls his nerves, and shoots straight at the quarry. Leaving Opemicon Tost Office, and pointing west, our view- by land and water is again limited — we are closed in as before ])}• the hills through which no (mtlet can l)e observed ; still pro- ceeding, we pass Echo Bluff, from where a very distinct double echo can l)e heard, repeated from one shore to another. Pre- sently an opening to the right is seen, through which can be caught a glimpse of the Lake in its l)roader sweep. We pa.ss through "The Narrows," and the T^ake — in its calm grandeur, with sides of high and many jutting headlands, tree-to])ped and faced with verdure, wherever tree or shrub can strike a root — conies into view. The picture disclosed enchants the eye as one of exceeding softness and bold outline. A nearer examination shows the shores to be of rugged and precipitous rocks, of the gneissoid formation — of the oldest of the earth's crust. " 'Tis distancf lends enchantment to tlie view, And clothes the mountains in its aznre hne."' As we sail along we pass Soticier Island, where is good trolling. Then Otter Tail Creek shows itself, flowing noisily into the Lake. By this creek, and numerous portages, Tema- gaming Lake ma}- be reached ; but the trip is too laborious to be taken for ])leasure alone, though the best of sport in large and small game ma}-- be got on its course. Next McMartin's Point On the Quebec shore, is observed ; a sandy-rock point jut- ting out into the Lake. A gentleman and his family, from Philadelphia, have spent the season here, from May to October, for some years past. The " Point " was a popular camping 27 a U o ■J! o o < o S I \ i ground of the Indians when they ranged the country as its lords supreme, before the white man's advent. Stone imple- ments of warfare and the chase are found here more numer- ously than at any other place on the Ivake. From here is an old Indian portage to Kippewa Lake, several minor lakes being on the route, which are, as usual, well stocked with fish. Game of all kinds pertaining to the district is plentiful. Latour's Mill. o < ir, A W o o to o US o < o ^« < 'f. i •A The next point to note is Latour's Mill, an old, and now unused, luml)ering depot, and where raft oars were sawn for the square timber rafts once so common — sawlogs have now taken their place. Tumbling down the sides of the hill, a cas- TEMISKAMING LAKE — FROM LATOURS MILL. cade is seen, here and there hidden by the foliage. " Chantier, " or bush roads, are here, as likewise all through the district, and game is plentiful, bears being probably more numerous than other places on the Lake. Tirriber Slide. Nearly opposite, on the Ontario shore, a creek has been diverted from its course, and comes pitching into the Lake from a timber slide. The logs are brought from the nearest lake, on the plateau-top, by water down the slide, a distance of a quarter of a mile, gathering impetus from the start, until they leap from 29 the slide into the I.ake from a heij^ht of 35 feel, disajipearini^ from view in the deej) water, only to re-appear, bounding clear out of the water. The total fall from lake to lake is over 300 feet. There is a chain of lakes, be.-iides other detached ones, stretching from the head of the slide to Heenan's Bay, a distance of ten miles, but which are not shown on the map. The like- ness of man is a rare sight to the abundant game hereabouts. Grand CarripmBnt Bay Close by is a Ixiy with low shores and high sloping lands for a back- ground. It is called Grand Camp- ment JJay, and is, as its name im- plies, a grand canii)ing s])ot, from where the country mentioned in the ])revious j)aragraph can be exploited. A little farther on we see " HutTalo Rock" — a bold blufT with perpen- dicular face, on which may be traced, with the aid of the imagination, the ligure of a buffalo outlined by the rock strata. Opposite, on the Quebec shore, is the " Indian Por- tage," an old portage road of the Indians, from Temiskannngto Kippewa Lake. {Several lakes shorten the portaging to one mile or so, in a distance of Ijetween four and five miles. Looking ujj the lake a view is had of the ^Montreal ^Mountain ( or Great Heaver Mountain of the Indian, from its resemblance in profde to a prone beaver) some eight miles distant. H«),M SIT.KN ()r*'AKU()" — Lf)f)KIN("i LI' TO .Mf>NTKEAL KIVKK .MOL'NTAIN. ippeantij^ ling clear i over 300 led ones, x distance The like- aljoiits. jw shores r a hack- id Camp- luune ini- jjol, from led in the exploited. " lUitTalo li perpen- he traced, alion. the id by the idian Por- kaniini:(to ) one mile ookinj^ up lor Great in profile ~ , ..«? >UNTA1N. From Indian Portage to Ki])pe\va River, a distance of 3^^ miles, the (juebec shore is very precipitous and most interest- ing. The camera amateur w ill not want to pass without getting a picture illustrating Nature's workings, where " Down on the l,akc- in masses threw CrnK-s, knolls, and nionnds, conl'us'dly hnrled The fragments of an earlier world." Here and there immense masses of rock lie at the water's edge, after displacement from the towering crags above them. Again can be seen the insidiioiis l)ut sure ])ower of the growth of tree- roots ill aiding in disintegrating the once apparently solid rock, by forcing portions out of })lace, which fall eventually. In our course over its waters it has become more and more iinpres.scd on our minds that J^ake Temiskaming, for its greater length, is TEMISKAIMING LAKE — I'ROM Kiri'i;WA KlVl-K. but the result of some great seismic convulsion, creating one vast i/YT'irssc- in the earth's crust, now filled with water. The cleft rock on either side, in many instances, would apparently fit again into its supposedly original place. And as if to bear out this theory, the depth of water is such that in places the bottom of the lake is below the level of the sea — oiT the mouth of Kippewa River is reputed to be 1,200 feet deep, or over 600 feet below sea level, as a reference to the vertical scale at the bottom of the ni:ip will show. Referring to the niaj), if a line is drawn from " A " on left u])])er margin, diagonally across to " li " on right hand margin, it will show the section of country and water levels represented by the vertical scale. For in.stance, the line cros.ses Temiskaming Lake two miles above INIuntreal River mouth, where the Lake is over 4(K) feet deep — at Kippewa it is nearly three times that depth. KippeWa Rlv/er. Where Kippewa River (one of the outlets of Kippewa Lake) flows into I{," it is preferable to stait in at Ilaileyhury, coniiuj,' out by way of the Metahetcheouau — down stream. This, of course, refers to ])ar- ties desirous of making the round trip by way of Lady ICvilyn and Temaj^aminj.^ Lakes. Those desirinj; a shorter trij) can j^«> in here and find all the sport they want on the Hass and Rabbit Lakes. The first named waters excel in maj^nifieeiit bass, and the last is well stocked with a variety of lish. while j^Mtne in plentiful all throuj;h the country. "the notch "— looking uown. Proceeding, our course is due north until we reach Pointe IvE Barbe, or Barber's Point, so named because it was the place where the voyageurs and officials of the Hudson's Bay Company, with their large fleets of canoes (bearing supplies, etc., frcmi Montreal and other places), always camped prior to rounding the Point and coming in sight of I-'ort Temiskaming, 2^ miles distant, which was then the principal post of "The Company " in this region 40 or 50 years ago. Etiquette was strictly observed 35 in those days by all officials, and the order of their precedence as rigidly adhered to. Hence it was necessary that all should camp here, for after an arduous trip from Montreal they would be all unshaven, and look, more or less, the worse for wear. The camp would soon have the appearance of an embryo laun- dry and barber shop combined. After a general sprucing up, the expedition would again start, but now in formal order, each one in his proper place, according to the number of brass but- tons on his uniform. And so, in formal state, they would reach Fort Temiskaming, where we, too, nov/ find ourselves, admir- ing the situation, and noting the large expanse of water stretch- ing to the sky line, as seen through " The Fort Narrows." f Fort TemisKamin^ Is prettily situated on a gravelly point of land extending towards the Ontario shore. A like point on that shore also ])rojects towards the F^'ort, forming " The F^ort Narrows," about 150 yards wide "The F^'ort," as it is shortly termed, is, as before stated, a post of the Hudson's Bay Co., where trading has been done for 100 years past. The main business is now transacted in another place, 2% miles away. Mr. McKenzie, factor of the district, resides here. It is also the summer residence of many visitors from Ottawa, Mattawa and other places. " The point " on the Ontario, or opposite shore, is the site of an old Oblat Feathers' Mission, now removed to Ville Marie. Both the F'ort and the Mission was the scene of the annual gathering of all the Ind'ans in the country for a hundred miles nround. But the Indians are dying off rapidly, and the annual meeting now held at the head of the Lake shows a sadly diminished gathering a.-, compared with sixteen years ago. Owing to the proximity to the settlement at Ville Marie game is not to be found so surely or so plentifully here as it is else- where. But good fishing can be enjoyed at The Narrows for dore, pike, etc. About three-quar'. ^rs of a mile from the F'ort is a small land-locked lake of clear water, well stocked with fine large black bass, plainly to be seen swinnning about near the bottom. It is difficult to get them to bite, though a smaller fish, the rock bass, bites freely, and can be caught in large numbers. We are now 50 miles from the lower end of the lake, and still 26 miles from the other end. I^eaving the F^ort, and taking a N. F^ course, we soon arrive at Baie des Peres, or Ville Marie, as it is now termed, 2>^ miles from the F'ort. A village well situated on the high lake shore, it is the central point of a • 36 :edence should Y would ir wear, ^o laun- ing up, icr, each •ass but- Id reach ,, admir- stretch- xteudin,i( lore also 3," about ^d, is, as e trading is is now IcKen/.ie, summer ind other shore, is d to Ville he annual red miles he annual rs a sadly ears ago. arie game J it is else- irrows for 1 the Fort eked with ing about , though a caught in lake, and Fort, and es, or Ville A village point of a ,^. "i I i ^\ >im o H P H P O o H o o < V. c J o 9 o large settlement extend- ing some miles on either side, and back of it. The Oblat Fathers have their Mission here ; a fine brick church, hospital, priests' residence, etc., the Grey Nuns having charge of the hospital and the school. There are numerous stores, several hotels, two doctors, two post offices, notaries', a sawmill, grist mill and cheese factory. The Hudson's Bay Co. have an establishment • here also, near the steam- boat wharf, where every thing necessar}- can be procured in the way of outfitting a hunting or canoeing trip. Again on our way up the Lake, we round Wine Point and note that the Lake has here broadened out. With exception of that part opposite Point La Barbe and a couple of miles below, the Lake has been com])aratively nar- row, and seemingly more so than it is really, Miat appearance being due to the effect of the high shores on both sides. Drunken Ishmd is seen to the right, the scene of many an orgie in the old- en days of the rule of the Hudson's Bay Co. At Fort Temiskaming order and decorum was the rule, but at Dru'iken Island — out of sight of the Fort— the small keg of rum (which was part of the outfit of i VILLK MAIIIE. each fleet of canoes carrying the winter suppHcs to all far distant outposts) was brought forth, and then hilarious and rougher conduct ruled the camp. After a couple of days thus spent, a sober and hard-working lot of men would then .start on their journey, and their doings at Drunken Island was but a reminiscence of " a good time," lasting them for a year, or until its repetition. So says legend. Bryson island. An Island about 2>^ miles in its greatest length, anddeeph' indented with bays, is where a gentleman from Philadelphia has a handsome rustic residence, on a site which commands a fine view of the Lake. He has also a fine yacht, besides numerous smaller boats, and entertains many visitors from the States every summer. Looking from the steamer past Br3-.son's Island, and be- tween that and another island, the Silver Mine, as it is called, can be discerned at a distance of four miles, on the eastern shore of the Lake. It is a galena mine, bearing i6ozs. of silver to the ton, and is being worked. Burnt Island, Is next approached ; about a mile wide and two and three- quarters long. So called for its being over-run by fire and the timber all burnt off some twenty-five years ago, though now covered by a young growth. To the geologist the shores are of ^ all far ous and ays thus leii start was but year, or id deeply adelphia inlands a besides from the and be- is called, e eastern , of silver nd three- e and the ugh now res are of I particular interest, as a changed formation shows up here. Opposite, on the Quebec side it is Huronian — quartzite ; on the Ontario shore Huronian — greywacke and slate ; the island itself is Silurian — Niagara formation. Fossil specimens are very plentiful all along the shore. The Frog, or Gestellated RogKs Opposite Burnt Island, on the Ontario side ; are rocks rising perpendicularly out of the water to a height of at least 200 feet. Close to the rocks the water has been sounded, and no bottom found at 160 feet. The rocks figure in the legendary THE rUOQ, OK CASTELLATED KOCKS — FROJt STEAMER. lore of the Indians, as do all notable places. Close to is Martineau Bay, a good camping ground, and from where roads extend in all directions. One road leads to Temagaming Lake, but there is a long "carry," no wagon being available to lighten the burden. rtaileybury. Passing on ^ li miles farther we reach a village, on the here gently sloping shore of the lake. It is the trading centre of a new settlement in an extensive well-wooded, and good I 39 fanning country. Vhe view over the lake from this point is very fine. Has two churches, a sawmill, hotel, a store and a — telephone ! Starting from here is a waggon road leading to vSharp Lake, about six miles distant, and which is on the canoe route to Temagamiiig Lake. Thornioe, Or Liskeard, as it was called until lately, is another village, at the mouth of Walibie Creek, distant from Haileybury 4^ miles. Wahbie Creek is at the bottom of a deep bay of the Lake, the land rising gradually therefrom. Thornioe, like Haileybury, is the trading centre for a rapidly increasing "LUMSDEN lilNE" STJJAMEHS. settlement. Has a church, school-house, sawmill and stores, and is a thriving community. Bound now for North Temiskaming, at the head of naviga- tion, and 3^ miles from Thornioe, we pass Wahbie's Point, a bold uprising of limestone rock of a cream color. Two miles farther on is still a greater height of similar rock of perpen- dicular face, about 150 feet high, a heavy growth of trees cresting the top. Seen from the Lake at a distance the rocks have a white appearance, and so are called " The White Rocks." Passing Chief's Island, two of the mouths of the Blanche, or White River, are pointed out to us. It is a large stream of 40 I stores, water flowing from the north, draining a good but unsettled stretch of country. The river has three mouths — one emptying into Quinze River, called the Devil's Snye — flowing through a delta, heavily timbered with hardwoods. Is navigable for 40 miles up, by small steamers, and the "Argo, " a side-wheel boat, has been up 26 miles in the last of August — the low water period. Crossing the bar, we take a sinuous course over the Lake, keeping to the deep channel of the Ouinze River as it flows on its course amid the surrounding shallow water. Won- dering to see the grasses and other marine growths on each side of the steamer, we are still further surprised to be told that once out of the channel we might wade for miles at low water. It seemed strange that so far from shore, on an hither- to extraordinarily deep lake, we should be winding among shallows ; but so it is, and the steamer's course is well marked by the vegetation on both sides of the channel, as well as by brush-topped saplings stuck into the mud on one side. In this manner we .sail for three miles, pass the Devil's Snye, an outlet of White River, and finally reach North TernisKaming The end of our trip, and navigation, on Lake Temiskaming. We are now on the Indian Reserve, there being quite a settle- ment of Indians here. The boundary line between the two provinces strikes due north from near the Devil's Snye, a mile below ; and the Quinze River — still the Ottawa — (so called from the fifteen rapids on the fifteen miles of its course, "Quinze" being the French for fifteen) — is seen flowing through its now narrowed course. There is a large extent of wooded country available for a farming connnunity, extending man}' miles back from the lake shore, from Haileybury to the head of the lake or North Temiskaming. Cariboo are to be found in this region, as well as moose and deer, and the quail, or prairie chicken, is not uncommon from Haileybury up. A canoe route indulged in often, starts from here. By it one can reach Abitibbi Lake, a three weeks, or more, trip. Or a still longer one, by following the Ottawa to its source, and then, by a very short portage of a few yards, launch the canoe into the waters of the Gatineau River, and so down to its mouth opposite Ottawa. Were a longer trip than that desired, an- other short portage from Gatineau waters near their source, and on to St. Maurice River waters, and you may paddle your canoe down to the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers. Leaving North Temiskaming and its stolid Indians, on our return, and when again in deep water, Otter River is 41 pointed out on the Que- bec shore, draining the country generally from the south-east of its mouth. We have now a straight run of eight miles, which we quickly do, and Ilaileybury is again reached where we disembark, contented in having enjoyed a splendid "outing" over a magni- ficent lake, on a well ap- pointed and comfortable boat, manned by court- eous officers. The Canoe Trip. Our camping parapher- nalia having been landed on our first touching at Haileybury, we found that engaging guides, se- lecting canoes, procuring such articles from the store as may have been overlooked, or that may now be found necessary, as well as making up our " dunnage " into packs convenient for carriage, has pretty well vised up the day, so we decide to make an early start in the morning. We put up at a comfortable hotel near the lake shore, kept by Messrs. Blackwell and Westrom, two English- men of recent growth. Mr. C. C. Farr, the pion- eer of this new settle- ment, owns the saw-mill. 1 I 1 the store belongs to Mr. Cobbold, a very agreeable man, college bred, and a B. A. Mr. Lawlor, who lives close by, farms, and, in addition does all the transporting of The Hndson's Bay Com- pany's supplies from Ilaileybury to Temagaming Lake. He can be depended upon at any time for a waggon to take the camp equipment of a party to Sharp Lake, the end of the first and long portage. Any of the above gentlemen may be written to regarding a contemplated trip, and guides and canoes, etc., can be arranged for in advance of arrival of party. The Start. A waggon being supplied by Mr. Lawlor to take our camp- ing requisites over the six mile road to the first lake, we bid "good-bye" to the " fringe of civilization," and start on our tramp after the waggon, over a pretty fair road for a newly opened up country. A few dollars spent on it would make an acceptable improvement, though it is not a bad one to walk on in the summer months. Passing through a thickly wooded country, we arrive at Sharp UaHe. Where our " impedimenta " is taken from the waggon, the canoes, of course, being carried by the Iiulian guides over the portages. A " good " Indian would deem it a sacrilege almost, the placing of a canoe on a wagon. Everything being properly stowed in the canoes, we put out, and henceforth, or for some days to come, become as the children of nature, knowing no cares "and every toil a pleasure." Cileefully, in exuberant spirits, we quickly paddle over the water, our resonant voices raised in song, disturbing the stillness of the solitude, as well as our guides. Such a proceeding was a breach of hunting usages, not familiar to them, who rarely speak above a whisper. They duly remonstrated with us, saying, " iNIake noise, you see no moose, no deer, no bear, no nothing ; me find no game — Indian no good — go back." We mollified them by say- ing we would make no more noise after getting to the portage. But what sound, healthy man, now free from the confinements of city life, with its many toils and worries, its vitiated air, and vSombre smoke-dimmed skies — what man, I say, could be blamed, when ]>ossil)ly after many a long day, he finds himself with nature in the wilds ; breathing an atmos- phere, which of itself alone is the cause of a quicker circulation. The blood courses through his veins in a manner uncommon ; 43 ■Ml to hitn, now, everything he sees has a charm vniknown before ; every creeping thing is of interest. And so with bnoyant song and jest we sight our first portage, two miles from our start. Slowing up a little distance from the landing jjlace we drop a couple of trolls into the water, and are soon rewarded with a fish for each troll — one a pike ; the other a dore, and then another dore ; we are now sure of a first course of fish for dinner — not lunch, our appetites are too voracious for that. Landing, dinner was the most important question ; all of the party but the guides wanted it there, and some insisted, but the advice of the guides was to have il on the other end of the 7 AN KVENXNG'S I'ISIUNO lOU ONE. portage, a short mile distant ; which advice was acted on, a bag being opened and "hard tack" served out to the crowd. And so munching the " hard bread " as best we might, with our guns and rods, and a proportion of the camp equip- ment on each of our backs, we cross the portage, and then sit about on the shore of Lake Ajickigaming, while one of our guides, prepared our first meal. With what enjoyment did we eat it when ready ! No sauces or relishes were needed to aid us in the speedy satiation of our appetites. Where else did we get such juicy pike and dore as those caught in Sharp Lake ? 44 > II d on, a to the - might, > equip- then sit t of our t did we to aid us : did we p I^ake ? Th*^ quick -eater of the party, with a guide, took the occasion o a necessary delay during the washing and packing of our dinner service, to essay his hand at fishing. Getting into a canoe and trolling, as a reward for his energy in "rushing" his dinner, he soon hooked several pike and dore, but was not fortunate enough in getting anything else. Having caught enough to " go round " our party for supj)er, he desisted from fishing, the guide telling him he would be sure to get fine bass that evening at the camping ground, on Montreal River. All ready again, we started afresh and refreshed, and after a paddle of about an hour, arrived at our last portage for the day. Quickly the carrying is done, the portage being a short one, for we are anxious to get some of the promised bass. In good time we arrive at Montreal River, Which we find to be a line stream with a large flow of water. Quickly into our canoes again, and up the river we paddle for nearly an hour, reaching our first rapid and portage on the Montreal River, and the first camping ground for the night. We have plenty of daylight yet left us to make camp and enjoy ourselves with fishing ere we turn in. This, our first day out, we confess that we have a little "tired feeling," but are all in good spirits, and able to go farther if necessary. Soon we have our lines in the water, — one trying a fly, another a piece of squirrel (shot expressly for bait) another a grass- hopper caught at hand, and the fourth rod-trolling with a small spoon. This variety of bait was agreed upon to decide on which was the best to use. The "best" from that experience is still undecided ; the further problem evolved being — which was the best hook to get out of the bass' mouth in the quickest time ? But the preference, if any, seemed to be with the grasshopper ; at other times another bait would be the choicest, with the minnow always leading, and the cray-fish a good second. In Camp. vSupper now being shouted we all respond, and when our fish, principally bass, are gathered together, we find that we have more than enough for breakfast and dinner next day. Having enjoyed ourselves eating to our hearts' (stomachs) content, we stretch ourselves out on balsam beds — not to sleep, nor rest, but simply to realize a something we all experience — 45 . TBOUT FI8HIK0. 46 a sensation of happiness, of contcntnicnl. With llie clear sky above us, a beautiful stream btfore us, flowinj^ calmly on throuj^h its sylvan course ; the impressions of" the many pictures(|ue and new scenes of loveliness depicted of tree, foliaj^e, and rock, as they re-a))pear on our uiiiuls, it is lU) wonder that we should l)e impressed as never before. And so in niotiiitaiii solitmles— o'orlakfii As l»v soiuf six'll divine — Tlieir cares dropped from tli ni lil<( tlio needles slrikrn I'roin out th' fjii'^tv' pinc- In quiet enjoyment of the jiipe and conversation, before a large fire, we pass the evenini;, and then turn in to realize what sleep is, on the best bed among (iod's gifts — a bed of balsam boughs, laid shingle fashion, with the tijjs always up, the first course being laid against a small log or sapling. It is claimed ff l^'A ft I'lIK CA.Ml', i.r.y for such a bed periodically renewed, that a man will not catch cold while sleeping on it, and that it will cure the cold of any- one so troubled — is a veritable panacea for lung trouble — and the writer believes it from experience. All up in good time in the morning thoroughly refreshed ; and breakfast over, it is decided we will lake a Icisui-el} course over the Lady Evelyn and Temagaming Lakes, visiting all points of interest, and camping, shooting, and fishing where we listeth. As a detailed account of the trip will take up so much time and space, I will content myself with writing of points of interest, suggesting that our first day's trip be taken as a sample of all following ones, with varied details and changing scenes, for each day's travel. A shorter cut may be taken frcm ^ I I i ill' ir I! the S. W. bay on Sharp Lake, to Mntachevvan, a Hudson Bay Cotupany jiost on Hay I.ako, by way of Loon Lake and two jiorlages, i>^ and 2 miles each respectively. Hy the shorter cut is S/i miles, the other way 12 miles — and the longer way to be always preferred Starling on our second day's travel, we sail up Bay Lake to Pork Rapids, about 7 miles, calling at Matachewan when passing. Some distance below Pork Rapids, as we rounded a jioint, we caught a glimpse of two moose at the water's edge. They (|uickly disappeared when they saw us — such grand animals. Lady I'Aclyn Lake waters here mix with those of Montreal I" forming the I f III II IVlatawabiKa Falls. The surroundings constitute a scene of great beaut)* with many contrasts. The towering rock .standing out in bold out- lines, the l)ase and summits shrouded in foliage of various tints; the falling water, soon again in calm flow, eddying among rocks and wooded bays ; once seen the picture is never effaced. We here leave the ]\Iontreal River with regret, because of its interesting and varied 'scapes of natural beauty ; but in the assiuance o*" equally as fine scenery by the route we are to go. Camping he night here, we have some splendid sport in fishing. f MATAWAUnCA FALLS. 4S I f Next nfteruoou, after passinj^ thro' scenes most enchanting, we enter Lady E;.velyn UKe. Ol'i, thon lake of entrancinj^ charms ! Of wooded island, of mossy knolls, of lichened rock ; whose w'aters are pelucid as crystal ; whose tf)werinff rocks, tree-topped, are limned against the aznre sky ; and whose shores are clothed with foliage of varied tint of green. Yonr beanties an artist wonld essay his skill depicting, ])ut '• wild can paint If at nij^ht on balsam bcnij^hs unshaded from the winds of heaven — such a life in due time will make a "hard-tack" and a drink of tea a relislK'(l meal, an ordinary meal a feast ! Leaving his campinj^ i,n-ound, a short sail brings us to Rabbit Chute-, the first portage on the trip down the Metabet- cheouan River. Soon over that and the next one, we enter the first of four small lakes, noted for the number and size of the bass therein — termed, First, Second, Third, and I'ourth Bass I,akes, in order from Temiskaming I.ake. We enter the I'ourth Bass Lake, nearly a mile long in our direction ; a short portage, and then we are in Third Bass I.ake, over a mile long ; through a narrow channel, we are in Second Bass Lake, a little over half mile long ; again a narrow channel, and we are in iMrst Bass Lake, about three-quarters of a mile long. The four Bass Lakes extend for about four miles distance, counting in one portage and two channels. The water is l)eautifully clear, the scenery interesting, and the bass fishing something to experience. We had dinner on h'irst Bass Lake, and a few hours fishing, being desirous of taking home some of the splendid bass as trophies of our last day's sport. We obtained a sufficiency of the fish, and such fellows as would be a ])ride to show anywhere. After "gutting" the fish we made the last p:)rtage of a good half a mile, and realize where we are, for there stands outlined against the sky, the (treat Beaver of the Indian, Montreal River Mountain. Paddling down the INIetabetcheouau, its waters mingle soon with those of the INIontreal River ; on the joint waters we sail and soon reach the noble Temiskaming, then Montreal River, and Landing in good time to make camp and prepare to take the " INIeteor " in the uiorning. One of the guides takes our selected bass to a near-by farmer, who puts thein in a cool place till morning. The smaller ones we keep to eat at evening meal and breakfast. We go over all our " possessions, " aiul make a gift to the guides of provisions left, and such clothing, tobacco, etc., we do not need ; and after a pleasant evening spent around our last camp-fire, turn in to enjoy our usual refreshing sleep on that best of beds, of Balsam brush. In the morning, as the " IVIeteor " pas.ses earl}', we decide to have our breakfast on board, for it will be a long wait from an early breakfast to dinner at noon — a longer period than our 54 course internal auteous nd K"" r larder , of the ij^lit on ch a life of tea a t;s us to Sletabet- ,ve enter d size of irth Bass e I'onrth ])orta^e, through over half irst Bass iss Lakes portage scenery ice. We ig, being >1 sh, and After half a against River waters le joint iig. then up and near-by smaller We go lides of )t need ; ^nip-fire, of beds, Iccide to Iroin an nan our appetites can stand. The "Meteor" soon appears to view, and being signalled, we are cpiickly on board. With our eyes fixed on Tetniskaining's high mountain, we bid adieu to the magnificent scenic country which lies behind it, and of which it is our last manifestation; a regretful "good bye" to the unique and health-giving pleasures enjoyed for the past two ''TlIK XOirU'" -l.OOKIMi VV. weeks, conscious as we are — by them — of our betterment in every respect. State-rooms being obtained, a little while sees us again in the garb of city men, after which we sit down to, and enjoy a hearty breakfast. Afterwards we arrange with the Captain to take our canoes and guides back to Ilaileybuiy, where they arrive the same day. (It may be here remarked that it would be cheaper to buy the canoes outright, instead of hiring them, if contemplat- ing a second trip. The Lumsdcn I jne will store them free of 55 ^1 '''1 ^1 charge until such time as they are needed again.) Arriving at Temiskaniing Station at 10.30 a.m., we register at the hotel, and note familiar names of several who have followed in our wake. We have time before dinner to take a stroll in the neighborhood, visiting the Depot and mills on Gordon Creek, belonging to Mr. A. Lumsden, one of Ottawa's members to the "chute" on GORDON CUEEK. Ontario House, a lumberman, who has large business interests in this section, and is connected with many of the enterprises in the Ottawa Valley and elsewhere. Is also owner of the Lumsden Line of steamers on the Lake. Also, see "The Chute" on the (rordon Creek — well worth seeing. Returning to "The Bellevue " we relish a good dinner, and soon after board the train which will convey us to too-familiar scenes of city life. ig at lotel, 1 our 1 the reek, the i ^ lerests )rises J)f the ■"The |riiing after lies of 3^ I r BELLEVUE HOUSE— FRONT VIEW. " THE BELLEVUE HOUSE " Temiskaming Station. Quebec. J. McCoMBiE, Manager. This House is a high-ceiled, roomy, new building, pur- posely erected to supply the requirements of a class of people visiting Lake Temiskaming, on pleasure bent more especially, and on business. No money has been spared, either in the building of it, or the furnishing. It is carpeted throughout, hot and cold pure spring water, supplied by gravitation, on all floors, baths, etc., electrically lighted, and is situated on elevated ground, in the midst of trees and shrubbery, (affording splendid shade) close to and overlooking Temiskaming Station and the Lake, in front. A few feet distant in a separate building, is the " Recreation Hall," containing Billiard Room, Bowling Alley, "Sample Room," and Reading Room. Up stairs is a Concert Hall or Ballroom, Coat and Cloak, and other accessor}^ rooms. The Recreation Hall is 35 feet wide and 87 feet long, with a wide verandah all round it. The Concert or Ball Room is 31 feet wide, 54 feet long, and 14 feet high, inside measurement. Broad staircases give access to the Hull. There are facilities for Lawn Tennis and Golf. 57 :i n ! *I*he Manager, Mr. McCoiuhic, is a man of experience in liin business ; is an ardent sportsman, and eompelent to advise in all things pertaining to vSport and Pleasure. The terms are |2.()o per day, or |io.oo per week ; for family parties, special rates will be made ; also for guests stay- ing over an extended jieriod. The advantages which "Tiiic l!iu,i,i',vri; Hoisi-;" can otTer to all lovers of Hunting and I'ishing who aredesirous of bringing their families for a summer outing amid the virgin wilds of the Upper Ottawa, are most apparent to those who have once been there. Close by runs the swift and turbulent waters of Ciordon Creek, an outlet of KipjK-wa Lake, the water of which, in one place particularly, throws itself in wild effusion over its rough, rocky bed, forming a very beautiful " Chute." The bush adjoins the House, through which immerous old "chantier" (or bush) roadsarecut. In their seasons wild berries abound, and are unexcelled in their (piality. There is good fishing close l)y at the Rapids, and in the lake close to the I "^1^ ■ „ ^ ■"e::^ *^ aaiiHa iitiiiji^niPMril r' .^ KKCHEATION HALL. Hotel — maskinonge, pike, pickerel, black bass, ling, channel cat- fish, sturgeon, and other fish of lesser note, with occasionally grey trout in the Rapids below. Salmon trout are to be had in lakes not far away. A walk of a couple of hours or so brings one to a small lake and creek abounding in speckled trout ; or, in another direction to Long Lake Rajiids and f Lake on Ciordon Creek, where great sport may be had among bass, pike and pickerel. During the hunting season moose and red deer are got in close proximity, while the timid hare is more numer- ous than is imagined. Patridges are often shot from the threshold of the Hotel. Duck shooting is to be enjoyed on the snudl lakes emptying into the Gordon Creek. Bears, wolves, foxes, martin, mink, beaver, otter, fisher, porcupine and skunk are also to be found in the several localities favorable to their habitat. Boating may be enjoyed to the full on the lake front. 58 Excursion trips by steamer \\\) Lake Teniisknniing would, when once made, be repeated, '•o mucli would the bold scenery be enjoyed. Camping parties of ladies and j^fentlemen can be organized for a few, or more, days' of uni(iue enjoyment to many, and be conveyed by steamer to any of the niunerous suitable spots on the shores of that beautiful lake, where bathing, boating, fishing, and hunting, can be indulged in to contentment. ' .Such are .some of th.-Muducements held out bj' the "The BEi.r,K\UE House " as a Sportsman's headciuarters for himself and family. Should he desire an i-xtended trip into distant fast- nes.ses, his family could be left at the Hotel, in all comfort, and getting the benefit of the pure air of the region. It ma}- be added that the House tii sent hie is of the best, and absolutely clean and quiet. a. lel cat- >onally lad in wrings It ; or, ike on ;, pike 1 deer lumer- tn the on the solves, skunk their 1 front. ti " ^ BELLEVUE HOUSE— SIDE VIEW. Any information desired will l)e cheerfully imparted by addressing the manager, and hunting licenses can also be pro- cured at the Hotel upon arrival. Guests at the " Beli.Evue House " need no license for fishing in the Province of Quebec for a distance of some miles from it. Tourists' and vSportsmen's Outfits, such as guns, fishing rods, canoes, tents, camp equipment, cooking utensils, musical instruments, kodaks, and wearing apparel, etc., may be brought into Canada duty free ; providing a deposit of duty on the appraised value of the articles imported is made with the nearest Collector on arrival in Canada, which deposit will be ! m 59 returned in full, providing; the articles are exported from Canada within six months. Duty in full must be paid on annnunition. Full information as to that and Game I lUM"*}' BASY K''//C' fesi "^ r..!.,,. ( ' £\** "«i»i?»«, I Vt^rtiUr.f,!, 'a: OUH/ LAVE .V^*! /*•/ ^ I «». ii'? n TEMISKAMING & TEMAGAMI LAKE COUNTRY ml : (ijil.u h ^V si: \r -^ Vv^ KCf-emt^V* 6, f ,/SV ,^-;:rr^ -J-H'^^ B^lu^'^V Cr*»^C§'V'^'2^^ 1, ^' -sh^- -^ r- "'""•ii-i^yV ^P3 IE nc\ER Y_ „pu «."'■• 1"" •^■•■i5..'i. ^ WYSE ^..<^ 7>^/4' ^ ^. 5- 5!e.,,J_J? £.5l;^^^>iL?^55?;55575^^?Jv I' r t Is i A'- ^A ftVP. ISSUED BY AND WITH THE COMPLIMENTS OF The Lumsden Steamboat Linc. LAKE TEMISKAMING. M