IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 !f:IW IIM I.I If m M 2.2 U! US u 1^ m m 1.6 ra has be^'n reproduced thanks to the generosity of: National Library of Canada L'exemplaire filnn6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit6 de: Bibliothdque natinnale du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality pcssihle considering the condition and legibility uf tUe original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetd de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec tes conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and endmg on the last page with a printed or Illustrated impression. 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Ctlebrated for its homo comfor^, perfect quiet, excellent attendance, and the gwnliar excellence of its cuisine ; it has been patronized by their Boy&l HigbneBses rince Leopold and the Princess Louise, the Marquis of Lome, Lord and Lady Dufferin, the Marquis and Marchioness of Lansdowne, and the best families. Is most delightfully oituated near the Bay, en Front Street, and is one of the largest and most comfortable hotels in the Dominion of Canada. McGAW & WINNETT, Proprietors. NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ONT. This Hotel and Summer Resort is located in a beautiful grove opposite Fort Niagara, at the head of Lake Ontario and the mouth of the Niagara River. It is capable of accommodating three hundred and fifty guests. All modem improvements. The drives along the banks of the Lake and River are beautiful and refreshing. Application for rooms may be made to the proprietors of the Queen's Hotel, Toronto, up to June ist, after that date to the " Queen's Royal," Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. McGAWfcSi WINNEH, Proprietors. / tf?s::^-»''T^ ^" -a -» O Z 3 / / '^w-^--' / ^ALI^BI^ I7OUSE, TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANAd" wXWX\.W'WXVVXV\,W\.VCXWXVA,\V This favourite a»d commodious HOTEL is coiiveniently Situate the principal Railway Stations, Steamboat Landings, and the Parliaa Buildings. It has ONE HUNDRED and TWENTY-FIVE WE] VENTILATED BED^ROOMS besides spacious PubUc and Pri Dining and Drawing Rooms. The house is heated throughout by ste giving a comfortable temperature during the coldest weather ; and its site, ove.:looking Toronto Bay on Lake Ontario, renders it a vciy d< able Summer resort. TjEiRMS !— $2.00 and $2,50 per day which includes room attendance, with Full Board (Table d'Hote) from a BUI of Fare, comj ing the best that the market affords. The Transfer Hotel Omnibus and Luggage Waggon, and " Walker House" Porter, attend to the arrivals of aU Passengw Tn and Steamboats. iii V % HEAVY, SHELF Aan GENERAL HARDWARE. RICE LEWIS & SON. HARDWARi: -AND- IRON, SHEL WIRE. un VANILLA ROPL IRON MERCHA.NTS, TORONTO. Meohanios and Oarpenters' Tools, Builders', Foundry and Boat Supplies, Table and Pocket Cutlery, Plated Forks and Spoons, PATENT THREE ROLLER MANGLES, ^^_^ A FULL and WELL ASSORTED STOCK OF HABL 'TBE. W. A.- MMABBMAWp S3 East Market Square, Toronto, OROGGR AND SHIP CHANDLER, l! ANCHORS. ROPE, OAKUM, CHAINS, BLOCKS, PAINT? and OILS. Camping Parties^ Outfits. SOLICITED ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. [ JOHN MALLON & CO.. Nos. 12 to 16 ST. LAWRENCE MARKET, TORONTO. FAMILY BUTCHEBS, 4 HAVE ALWAYS ON HAND MESS BEEF-CHOIOEST BRANDS, IS CAB LOTS OB SMALLEB QnAKXITIES- i Cat), Coupe, Livery (6 Boariinf Ms. ESTABLISHED 1855. HEAD OFFICE & STABLES,— 11, 18, 15, 17 & 19 Mercer St. Telephone No., 979. BRANCH,— 11 & 13 Queen St. East. Telephov> No., 988. Visitors and Tourists will study their own interest by send- ingr all orders to us, and Insure ffood turnouts at Tariff Rates. EzourUonlstB can orAer cabs by telepboiw from the "Obicora" Office. Highest Refeeence. Offices Never Closed. GEO. VERRAL, Proprietor. I MANUrAOTOBKB OF TENTS, AWNINGS, FLAGS, Horse and Waggon Covers, Life Preservers, Waterproof Lawn and Canvas Hammocks. TEN"TS TO E;EiTT, AMD DIFFERENT ORADEB OF CANVAS ALWAYS ON HAND. Special attention given to the requirementa of Hunting and Fishing Camping Parties. Tents for Sportsmen, or Compartment TentH for FamilioB. All correspondence by mail promptly answered and Price Lists forwarded on application. D. PIKEy 157 King St. East, Tor onto, Ont. MILLMAN & CO., (Late NOTMAN Sc FRASBB.) 41 KING STREET EAST, TORONTO. Messrs. Millman & Co., have refitted the Studio through- out, and adopted all the newest improvements, making it the finest Photographic establishment in Canada, and although doing a superior class of work, their prices are low. All the negatives of the late firm have been preserved. Tl — IMFOBTim 09^- I1ii« Guns, Fishing Tacitle, Camping Goods, Ae, Joflt rooeived a iplendid MMortment of Rods and Tackle ; also a complete line of Baae Ball supplies. Ouns and tents rented. TrUse Hat free. W. MoDOWALL. 67 Kino St. eIst, Toromt o. O O EI j^ liT"l3: TJ S ?137 BUBUH6T0N BEACR. OHTJL&IO. •d 6 S -g II II I I n o g CAMPBELL & HILL, Proprietors. TORONTO, HAMILTON m OAKVILLE. STEA.MEII " SOUTHERN BELLE," -AND- Grand Trunk Railway. Leave by boat and return by any train, or leave by train and return by boat. Toronto to Hainilton and return, or vice versa, good one day, $1.26 ; good three days, $1.^0 ; Saturday excursion good by boat Saturday to return by train en Monday a.m., $1.00 ; single fare by steamer, 76c. Steamer will leave Mowat's Wharf daily (weather permitting) at 11 o'clock a.m., and 5.30 p.m. For departure and arrival of trains see G. T. B. time-table. Season trip tickets and bi-weekly exoursious. WM. EDGAR, G.T.R. \, A G, KEITH, 8ti\ "Southern BeUe." m I . X>I -A.lSd:03SriDB . BdTABLISHBD X880. JAMBS B. ELLIS & CO., BY APPOINTUKNT Official, Oouernment, Railway and City Timekeepers, ■ IMK>RTE38 AND MANtTFAOTlTBEBS OF FINE GOLD WATCSES, JEWELL7!!R7, Sterling Silver and Plated Ware, Diamonds, French )]ooks and Bronzes, Split Seconds and Repeating Watches. LARGEST STOCK IN THE PROVINCE. LOWEST PRICES. ALL GOODS GUARANTEED. ^o. 1 KIIVG STREET EAST, TORONTO. THE LEHIGH VALLEY RAILROAD. Double Track, Steel Bails, Elegantly Equipped. Affords you the finest view of Memmtiful B^Bme^j EAST OF THE ROCKIES. Through the Famous Switzerland of America, Mauch Chunk, Glen Onoko, and the beautiful Wyoming Valley. ELEG/cNT D/cY EXfRESS. Solid Eastlake Train between New York or Philadelphia and Buffalo, Suspen- sion Bridge or Niagara Falls (daily except Sunday). Night Express (Daily) between the same points. CITY TICKET OKrlCESi- N£W YORK -339 B: Iway. PHILADELPHIA-835 Chestnut 8«re«t Bl ALO— Cor. Main and Seneca Streeta. Mauch Chunk, Pa. E. B. BYINGTON, Ganl. Pass. Agt. viii I nt f(ortl7^r9 • l^al^e5 OF m©QR(3(2la.lN^ THE NIAGARA RIVER AND TORONTO, LAKES SIMCOE AND C0UCHICHIN6, THE GEORGIAN BAY, GREAT M/ TOULIN CHANNEL, MACKINAC, SAULT STE, MARK .,ifE SUPERIOR. A OUIDli TO THE BEST SPOTS FOR WATERSIDE RESORTS- HOTELS— CAMPING OUTFIT, FISHING AND SHOOTING -DISTANCES AND COST OF TRAVEL. WITH SECTIONAL MAPS OF THE LAKES AND ILLUSTRATIONS. EDITED BY BARLOW CUMBERLAND, TORONTO. J2;ovonto: HUNTER, ROSE & CO., PRINTERS 1 ii- t 'ii i. i 1 ■1 Wmri I LJ^epigon^ Port Arthur ♦-■^Msle Royale Slate Islands Mlssanabie \ '■■"^Miohlplooten I. S U P £ tt 7-S^ff k N TTaAnaApUa Sudbu^l 7 Killtirney Marquettel ^i efs^^ St. iRnacA yrUT"^ oocKBUB" '»<" nVI^J ^ jtfa litowaning \ t«^ C.Hurd fOreen )/" ,»"•' .*~ /! * I / / / N» ; / . I / Kalamazoo o Qranrt Haven Caginaw Bay City C^cand Rapids I.A7«813Je^ OweijSound-s .-^^Teeswat ^Qoderlch L«o OBA'LS- TftUNK ^-Sarnia London, C£, Jackson^ DETROIT XL.stS>) Chatham Matthews, Northn % Co., Art-Prlnting Worh8,Buffalo,N. V. V 1 WMi ' i 'IIM Uf H L I . m^l -,»} . i | i .j,UilUH ii B i {.,B.i i" L.» .... . . I ■V -.-r^s^isni^l^p" v■.si■^*-.-A';■W.■^'l^,^«.fr.i^■wAv-■*^*~•.tVc.*iV^,^y)1;^>•v , i. Temiscamiha ni!j2]CA\NJADA *|,^^turgeoii Palls ^-Horth Bay Mattawa „ ^ The New District for ^ ^ CANOEISTS. South River Sundridge ^ CVi StunyL. j ^ganctt^wan \._,«a I'ickenll PRlli atrine Emsdale *'*Oj SMEN a<^* Co/yrii^/ii, 1886, Barlow Cumberland. ttt e tea tc.!* Ppiubroite-Sfi ■>^«-, ;*•«»♦ »»•» Bue* £.1 Cyp/ug yvi'i ■^^i!;'; Benfrew'! ,'!.'<-V*.'>-»--.^: t k.WA?f^ VMetim 1 Jioftseau Irrs^ t-Uttcrson« (Mary L - M Jl't.Sidnej' J \ "f-^ jjracebri^e ["SJ '^f^L . KcJiteea^ eievngamog Carleton Jo."-; Smiths Falls '■■■ V. -*. .feoern Sparrow^ .Qravenhurst Haliburton 8barbotI^l.e PrmiaC4^V-j,„„^,;W^^'«'-Seon 4 .Lindsay Broekvllle^ , Teeswater iioderich Can T. ^ ^_ ^Barrie ^ v^*^^ — -— -^*^:^W1 SirAcoe ^>-,^ "AllandalQ/A #/'•(-' OrangevUle ^tTL I JO Stratford ^_^^ ■-ffp Jt«— .*r^i^^ Gait i,<:rrT:,^i>*y \ o'^>-.x >f^-i^-''--^ amllXon^svtB- ^ _^ ,*^ .♦>- i>5^ BelievUle) oB^I^ gii::^^^^^- /o Brantford ^ "^^ Niag^ira PallC vrX . THE NEW YOBK OENTBAL IN THE QOBOB. TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 17 he rapids which close just a little above the dock. On the opposite shore is Queenston and the scene of the battle of Queenston Heights. The first point below the town is Vrooman's Point, and now for another seven miles the river winds in many curves between high and wooded banks, along the edge of which are seen comfort- able mansions set in the midst of the peach orchards, which have made the district a very fruit garden ; three miles from the mouth is TAr^e mile run where the Canadians crossed to attack Fort Niagara, and at the mouth itself are the American village of Youngstown, and on the opposite shore Niagara-on-the Lake. Beyond them are seen the blue waters of Lake Ontario. The "dorge" of Niagara. By the Dake of Argyll. " A very curious question, and one of great scientific interest arises out of the great difference between the course of the Niagara River above and below the Falls. It has in my opinion, been much too readily assumed by geologists that rivers have excavated the valleys in which they run. The cutting power of water is very great, but it varies in proportion to the liability of floods, and the wearing power of stones that may be carried along : much also depends on the posi- tion of the rocks over which a river runs. If the stratification pre- sent edges which are easily attacked or undermined, even a gentle stream may cut rapidly for itself a deeper bed. On the other" hand when the rocks do not expose any surfaces which are easily assail- able a very large body of water may run over them for ages without being able to scoop out more than a few feet or even a few inches. Accordingly such is actually the case with the Niagara River in the upper part of its course from Lake Erie to the Falls. In all the ages during which it has -run in that course for fifteen miles it has not been able to remove more than a few feet of soil or rock. The country is level, and the banks are very low, so low that in looking 18 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. up the bed of the stream the more distant trees on either bank seem to rise out of the water. THE PRECIPICE AT THE HORSE-SHOE FALLS. But suddenly in the middle of the comparatively level country the river encounters a precipice, and thence forward for seven miles runs through a profound cleft or ravine the bottom of which is not less than 300 feet below the general level of the country. How came that precipice to be there ? This would be no puzzle at all if the precipice weie joined with a sudden change in the gen- eral level of the country on either side of the river — and there is THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 19 ^ such a change — but it is not at the Falls. It is seven miles further on. At the Falls there is no depression in the general level of the banks. Indeed, on the Canadian shore, the land rises very considerably just above the Falls. On the American shore it continues at the same elevation. The whole country here, however, is a table-land, and that tab' e land has a termination — an edge — over which the river must fall before it can reach Lake Ontario. But that edge does not run across the country at Niagara Falls, but along a line much nearer to Lake Ontario, where it is a conspicu- ous feature in the landscape, and is called Qiieenston Heights. The natural place, therefore, so to speak, for the Falls would have been where the river came to that edge, and from that point the river has all the appearance of having cut its way backward in the course- of time. Sir Charles Lyell, the eminent geologist, came to the conclusion, from comparison of the rate at which the cutting back had been ob- servable within the memory of *nan, that this cutting back is about one foot in each year. At this rate the river would have taken 35,- 000 years to effect its retreat from Queenston to the present position of the Falls. This is but a very short fathom-line to throw out into the abysmal depths of geological time, and making every allowance for the pos- sibility of any differences in rate, according to variations of tempera- ture or configuration, the principle of the calculation seems to be a sound one. The strata or layers of rock which compose the geological forma- tion can readily be seen in the gorge of the river, and the process by which the cataract has eaten its way back from Queenston can be readily perceived. At the level of the brink of the Falls, where the waters make their final plunge, are thick, regular and flat layers of limestone rock. Above and below these is soft soluble shale. The running water wearing away the upper deposits makes the inequalities which cause the rapids above the Falls, and the reverberation and splash of the torrent as it falls, have disintegrated and washed out the 20 TBE NOBTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, I THB " LEDGE " FROM THE AMERICAN BIDE. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 21 soft red shale below, so that the limestone ledge is left in over, hanging masses until they break off with their own weight, and piece after piece dropping into the depths beneath, the Falls continue their ceaseless march commenced so many centuries ago. This deep groove does seem to be a clear case of a ravine produc- ed by a known cause which can be seen now in actual operation. As far as I could see, there is nothing to indicate that the ravine is due to a " fault " or a crack arising from subterranean disturbance, but the work has been done by the process which has been described, and 35,000 years is, after all, but an insignificant fraction of what has been occupied in the operations of geological time." ♦ <)ueenston Heights— where the Falls once were. I* If the Cataract of Niagara had continued to be where it once was, it would have given additional splendour to one of the most beautiful landscapes of the world. Instead of falling, as it now does, into a narrow chasm, where it cannot be seen a few yards from either bank, it would have poured its magnificent torrent over a higher range of cliff, and would have shone for hundreds of miles over land and sea. The steep line of heights above Queenston form the termination or escarpement of the comparatively high table-land of the upper Lakes. On the summit of the ridge has been erected Brock's Monument. This magnificent structure was erected by his grateful countrymen, to the memory of the brave General, who gallantly fell in the action which took place h-^re on the 13 th of October, 1812. The spot near a thorn bush, where he received his death wound, is further down the side of the hill, and marked by a monumental stone. The re- mains of the General, which had been interred in Fort George, at Niagara, together with those of his faithful aide camp^ Lt-Col. John 22 THE NORTHEEN LAKES OF CANADA. McDonell, were in 1824 removed and placed beneath the first monu- ment at that time erected. This having in 1840 been seriously damaged with explosives by a vandal named Lett, public sentiment was aroused and by a spontaneous movement, the necessary sum was immediately raised for the present unique structure. The previous monument was erected by a grant from the Parlia- ment of the Province, this one, from the voluntary contributions of the Militia and Indian warriors of the country. On the 13th of October, 1853, the remains of the revered dead were again removed, to be placed where they now lie in massive stone sarcophogi beneath the column. To gather some idea of the fervour which has raised so distin- guished a memorial, we may quote from the speeches made on the spot, where twenty-eight years after his death it was determined that this second memorial should be raised. Speaking to the assembly some 8,000 in number, which had come enthusiastically from all parts of the province, Mr. Justice Macaulay^ who had served under Brock, said, " Looking at the animated mass covering these sacred heights in 1840, to do honour for a war in 18 12, now old in history, one is prompted to ask, ' How comes it that the gallant General has left so lasting an impression in the hearts of his countrymen, how comes it that the fame of Brock thus floats down the stream of time, broad, deep and fresh as the waters of the famed river with whose waves it might be almost said his life's blood mingled ? In reply, we might dwell on his civil and military virtues, his patriotic self-devotion, his chivalrous gallantry and his triumphant achievements. Still, there was more that gave him talismanic influence and ascen- dancy over his fellow men, and which he wielded for his country's good. His was the mind instinctively to conceive and promptly to dare — incredible things to feeble hearts. With skill and bearing he infused his chivalrous and enterprising spirit into all his followers and impelled them to realize whatever he boldly led the way to accom- plish." Sir John Beverley Robinson, then the venerable Chief Justice, but whQ, as a young man had fought with distinction alongside the de- THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 38 ceased General, on the fatal, yet, glorious day, so long before, gave his testimony. " It has been sometimes objected, that General Brock's cour- age was greater than his prudence, that his attack on Detroit, though it succeeded, was most likely to have failed, and that a similar rashness was displayed in the manner of his death. Those who lived here while these events were passing, can form a truer judgment ; they know that what to some may seem rashness, was, in fact prudence, unless, indeed the defence of Canada was to be abandoned in the almost desperate circumstances in which. General Brock was placed. He had with him but a handful of men who had never been used to military discipline, few indeed who had seen ac- tual service, and he knew it must be some time before any reinforce- ment could be sent him. He felt, therefore, his cause was hopeless, unless he could impress this truth upon the enemy, that whenever a General with but a few gallant soldiers, and the brave defenders of the soil could be assembled against them, they must retire from the land which they had invaded. If he had begun to compare numbers and had reserved his small force, in order to make a safer effort on a future day, then would thousands of the people from the neighbour- ing States have been found pouring into this Province. True, he fell J in discharging a duty which might have been committed to a subor- dinate hand. True, he might have reserved himself for a more de- liberate and stronger effort ; but he felt that hesitation might be ruin, that all depended upon his dauntless courage and self devotion. It is true his gallant course was arrested by a fatal wound, such is the fortune of war, but the people of Canad^ did not feel that his pre- cious life was therefore thrown away, deeply as :hey deplored his fall. His was an inflexible integrity, an honesty of character, uncommon ^' energy and decision, and above all, an entire devotion to his country. In short, I believe I shall best convey an impression of him, when I say that it would have required more courage to refuse to follow General Brock, than to go with him wherever he would lead." From these we can learn the estimate in whic^ he was held. vo^t the armistice, and again, in November, the two forts had an artillery duel which resulted in nothing but their mutual damage, without superior advantage to either. Matters re- mained quiet during the winter, but in the spring the Americans- collecting together a large number of ships and boats, and a force of soldiers and seamen — embarked in the early morning of the 27th May, 181 3, and, under cover of a fog, crept down the Canadian shore. The battery, which occupied the sits of the present Fort Missasaga, and near the lighthouse, which was then on the point, wan first attacked, and was silenced by the weight of superior artillery ; and after a gallant struggle the forlorn hope of [500 men forced a landing at a creek (about a mile to the west. The Canadians, on the level plain, were shot down by the fire from the ships, while the landing parties — being protected by the high, overhanging banks — effected their landing on the beach. Reinforced from the fleet, they advanced — 4,ooo in number — upon Fort George, which General Vincent, be- ing satisfied that ihe victory of the Americans was complete, eva- cuated, having spiked the guns and blown up all of the magazines, and retired with the remnants of his force to St. David. The Americans remained in possession of Fort George all through the summer, during which a series of engagements took place with the result that they were hemmed in on all sides, and their supplies cut off. At length, on loth December, 1813, upon the advance of the Canadian forces, under Colonel Murray, they evacuated Fort George, having first set fire to all the houses in Newark, rendering 40 THE NOBTREBN LA^ES OF CANADA. T-i CO all the inhabitants — including the women and children — homeless and houseless in mid-winter. Murray's advance was so swift that the retreat was precipitate, so much so that tents for 1,500 of the American garrison were left stand- ing, and the fort itself undamaged. THE CANADIANS RE-TAKE FORT NIAGARA.- Pi < n O < a o o o i < o Aroused to avenge the burning of the town, Murray, under the com- mand of General Riall, on the night of the 18th December crossed the river, about three miles up, with 550 men, advancing stealthily at dawn, with bayonets fixed, and not a musket loaded lest by any chance an alarm might be given. The out- lying picquete were surprised, and bayoneted to a man. Rushing for- ward, the walls were scaled with scaling-ladders, the interior gained, the main gate carried ; and after a gallant resistance by the garrison, of whom 65 were killed and 12 wounded, ai: 5.30 in the morning Fort Niagara was once more in British possession. The Ameri- can flag v,as ii*?nt as a trophy to the Governor-General at Montreal, and the led-Cross floated again on both sides of the mouth of the river, blatters so continued until peace was declared, in February, 181 5. *vhen once more Fort Niagara was gracefully given up ; and again, and in pe?ce, the stars and stripes took the place of the red- cross Jack. 4? THE NORTRERN LAKES OF CANADA. Thus had three nationalities — the French, the British, and the United States — been in successive possession cf the fortifications that crowned this ancient point of land. Twice had British valour stormed the ramparts, and from each of the others had it in turn wrested their possession at the bayonet's point — each time again retiring in honour to cede them as an evi- dence of national good-will. The dismantled forts on the Canadian side, and the reverberating " sun-set gun *' from the American fort, mark the continuance of the era of better days, wherein all strife upon these so oft-disturbed and still so hallowed shores has found an end ; and their guardians now are rivals only in the arts of peace. '^■v;"i'^t!'-^ Lake Ontario. This lake, the last of the series before the St. Lawrence proper is reached, is i8o miles long, and 234 feet above the sea. At this point the breadth between Niagara and Toronto is 35 miles, and is crossed in about two hours. The passage across the lake, in the middle portion of which the steamer is for a short time out of sight of land, gives full advantage of the pure cool winds which in summer fan its surface, and make the trip over and back one of the most attractive routes for those going from the districts south or west of Buffalo, to or from Toronto, and a great resort for the citizens of the city itself. The palace steamer Chicora, of the Niagara Navigation Company ^ is the largest steamer on the lake, is built of iron and steel, and is of the strongest and most substantial ' >arac».er. Of regular ocean- going style — having been built on the Clyde, and crossed the Atlan- tic — she maintains exact regularity of service in all weathers ; and as old Boreas sometimes wakes up and develops a " snorter," it is well, therefore, to have a good bridge to carry one across. But these dis- plays are only fitful in their occurrence, calm weather being the average from June to September. In olden days the crossing used TRE^NOBTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 43 to be made in from four to six hours, and communic . — before the days of railways — was kept up the year round, the passengers being landed on the ice which fringed the shores. On the doors of the warehouses at Niagara are still to be seen the names of some of the old time vessels that occupied the route. The Chicora is 230 feet long, with 'O raking funnels, and a generally " rakish " appearance. The Lutrance Saloon is laid with maple and walnut ; and a handsome circular staircase, with richly twisted railings, leads to the Deck Saloon. This unique apartment occupies the centre of the promenade deck, and is surrounded by windows giving a complete view and complete protection in rainy STEAMER CHICORA. weather. The Promenade Deck extends the full length of the steamer, so that a walk of a mile is obtained without much difficulty. Seats and comfortable arm chairs are provided in abundance, so that every opportunity is afforded for making a pleasant trip. The Bar is sup- plied by the Company with the choicest brands, and in the Restaurant meals are supplied while crossing the lake. The Marine Double Oscillating Engines, built by the celebrated marine engineers, Messrs. Fa wcett, Preston & Co., and the like of which are not in any other steamer on fresh water, are objects of much interest and admiration to visitors. 44 TEE NORTHERN LAK^f^ OF CANADA. This steamer, leaving Toronto each wee'c-day at 7 a.m. and 2 p.m., and Lewiston at 11 a.m. and 4.30 p.m., mj»kes two trips each day, calling both ways at Niagara-on-the-Lake, and giving a pleasant outing on the open water of Lake Ontario, with the run of fourteen miles up and down the charming Niagara River. Direct connections are made, and through tickets issued in connection with all the Trunk Line Railways of the United States and Canada, and with the Royal Mail Line for the Thousand Islands and the Rapids of the St. Law- rence. Baggage requiring to pass Customs is examined by Customs officers on board the steamer while crossing the lake. {See Advt). THE ISLAND — TORONTO. When approaching Toronto from the southern shore, the light- bouse, on Gibraltar JFoint — the extreme west point of the island which forms and protects Toronto harbour — will be the first object to come in view. The island has been formed by the sands washing from the lofty Scarboro' Heights, which will be seen far away to the eai.t. kx one time it was possible to drive from the mainland along the Island, but ten years ago a breach was made at Ashbridgis Bay^ which has since enlarged, and a permanent opening has from that time existed. The form of the island is being constantly changed. The lighthouse, when first erected, was within a few feet of the water; now it is a considerable distance inland, the sand having been con- stantly deposited here and on the long spits forming the west side of the protection of the harbour. A large and increasing population of summer visitors from the city is in occupation of the many slight but pretty houses erected all along the shoies. A plank walk follows the beach the whole circuit of the island, and a steam tramway will soon be in operation. Hanlan, the champion oarsman of the world, was born on this island, and the prominent building with high gables Is his hotel, where can be seen the trophies of his prowess which he has won in all quarters of the globe. Bands play every evening in the summer in front of the hotel ; and roller-coasters and merry-go-rounds make this the Coney Island of Torontonians. Ferries run to all parts of the island every few minutes. THE NOBTHEBN LAKES OF CANADA. 45 The Exhibition Buildings attract the eye to the west, on the main- land, the white buildings in front of them, and close to the shore, are the barracks of the New Fort. Near here the American forces landed in 1813, and, after meeting with considerable resistance, they stormed the Old Fort, which may be noticed on the shore close to the entrance of the harbour. The Canadian garrison, being inferir - in numbers, and unable to withstand the attack, retreated, and, m doing so, blew up their magazine, by which the American commander, General Pike, and 200 of his men were killed, and many wounded. The spot where this occurred is just a little to the west of the pre- sent parapet. Toronto slopes very gently upwards from the water's edge, so gently as to present an almost level apppearance. The sky line is broken by the st)ires and towers of the churches and other buildings, and a fringe of green from the trees surmounting the Davenport Hills, which are the north limit of the city, forms a setting to the whole. Baggage is claimed on board, and transferred by the Toronto Transfer Company to the several hotels or railway stations. The Royal Mail Line Steamers, for the Rapids of the St. Law- rence and Montreal, leave from the same dock. ''*'^ ;■■;•■ ; t% Toronto as a Summer Uesort. ^ This city has gradually become the acknowledged centre for the Province of Ontario, of intellectual study, political opinion, legal re- search and monied influence — all potent motives to attract residents to settle within its borders. But beyond and in addition to these are the lighter and more enjoyable attractions of amusement and relaxa- tion that serve to lighten the labour of anxious business, and while away the hours for persons of leisure. Theatres, concert halls, parks, and (if they may be enumerated in the class of mental relaxations) sensational preachers of much power, are adjuncts that may be added to any city, wherever its location. 46 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. In these respects Toronto is amply endowed. She has, however, a natural endowment in her geographical and physical position and of which she is now only beginning to avail herself ; these advantages have contributed not a little to her past improvement, and bid fair to aid her happily in her advance towards metropolitan greatness. This city is pre-eminently a lakeside resort. In the past the streets have, and unless the city fathers should with infinite blindness to her own good, and with poor faithlessness in their future expansion, adopt an opposite policy, will for all time give open and unrestricted aceess to the waters of the harbour. No resident of, or visitor to, Toronto but can — either by street-car or a short walk — get down to the water side, and enjoy a balmy evening's row upon the sheltered waters of the bay, reaching home again at an early hour, and retire to rest invigorated by manly exercise and health- giving air. In the evenings the waters of the harbour are fairly alive with boats. Take any city of similar size, and beyond all doubt there are more pleasure boats to the aggregate number of families in Toronto than anywhere else on the globe. It is said there are cities in China where a large number of people live in houses floating on the water ; but any one who saw the welcome given to Edward Hanlan — the Patron Saint of Toronto Bay — when he came home crowned with the laurels of vic- tory, and all the water was covered with multitudinous craft of every size and shape, from the stately Chicora to the veriest "dug-out," would have said, " Here is a whole city all afloat." And so it is \ the people of Toronto are the most persistent water lovers — for corro" borative evidence see the puffing ferries carrying their teeming loads of laughing children and anxious mothers to the sandy beaches of the island ; see the evening moonlight excursions, when, to the light of the moon and the strains of merry music, the maidens and their swains dance the soft summer hours away ; see the Saturday after- noon excursions, when steamer after steamer leaves the docks for neighbouring lakeside parks, for " luscious " Oakville, " ambitious " Hamilton, or " historic," delightful Niagara. By common consent the Canadian business world has agreed that "All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy," and while our THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 47 neighbours in the States may dig and delve, may sweat and strain in the ceaseless struggle for dollars and gain, we in Canada will pause awhile in the quick pursuit, and cultivating that more intelligent view of the work of man, let our youth sally forth to open air, fresh fields, athletic sports and vigorous play, setting their systems all aglow with vigorous health, and mind and brain re-invigorated and better fitted for week day work again. It is this opportunity of enjoyment, and this spirit of taking advantage of the opportunity, that has attracted to Toronto many people from other parts of Canada, and in fact from the world at large to become permanent residents. Cool lakeside breezes in summer and temperate moderation of cold in winter, make Toronto a very pleasant place in which to live, and the progress of the past proves it also to be a very good place in which to thrive. The City of Toronto. NAME A.ND EARLY HISTORY. " The Capital of Ontario is perhaps the most progressive and pro- mising City in Canada. Even now it may be considered to be only in its youth, as there are still living within its borders inhabitants who can remember when there were but two or three brick houses, and they, and the few shanties which comprised the village, were hemmed together in a small clearing cut from the surrounding forest. The earliest mention of the name is found among some French memoirs in 1686, in connection with the " Portage of Toronto." The country in the neighbourhood of what is now called Lake Simcoe, appears then to have been known as the " Toronto region," a region ** well peopled," and a great " place of meeting," which is the most probable signification of the word. The portage to this place of meeting began at the protected harbour on the shores of the lake, thence by the Humber river, then called the Toronto 48 THE NOBTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. river^ and then by a trail to the interior. In course of time a fort was erected by the French, at the Lake Ontario end of the trail, the remains of which are to be seen in the grounds of the Exhibition Buildings. This at first, called Fort Rouill^, afterwards came to be called Fort Toronto, and thus the general name of the interior coun- try came to be localized in this one vicinity and applied to the vil- lage which sprung up on the shores of the bay. In 1793 the seat of government of the Province was remov«d from Niagara to Toronto, and the name of the latter then chan[;;t'd to " York," in compliment to Frederick, Duke of York, the son :f the then reigning King, George III. The new name of York never seems to have fitted smoothly \k the tongue or to have thoroughly settled down upon the place. In 1801 the Poet Moore, writing "from the banks of the St. Lar- rence," most probably from St Anne's, when he composed •>'ii n undying " Canadian Boat Song," adheres to the musical cadence o" the old and cherished name. ,. . ; *' I dreamt not then that ere the rolling year v Had filled its circle, I should wander here In musing awe ; should iread this wondrous world, ^ ■ ■ ■ See all its store of inland waters hurled In one vast volume down Niagara's steep, . Or calm behold them, in transparent sleep, Where the blue hills of old Toronto shed \ Their evening shadows o'er Ontario's bed." ' ■ - a ,<, ; ■.. .■. . V i -.■ '- ■■: - ■ '■ ' ■ ■ t ■ In 1834, on the occasion of the community having arrived at the size and dignity of a "City," the old name of Toronto was once more enthusiastically revived and officially renewed. In 1794 there were 12 houses in the village, in 181 2 its popula- tion was 900, in 1879, 71,000, and nowjthe little " place of meeting," has grown to be a city of 130,000 inhabitants, a rate of progress of which any community might well be proud. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 4d 50 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. The hotel accommodation is ample for the largest gatherings, hence Toronto is now more than ever a favourite " place of meeting," and as in olden days the Indian tribes came here together, so now, headed by their Chiefs and Patriarchs, come the brethren of the vari- ous social, benevolent, or business organizations from all parts of the Continent The Rossin and Queen's ($2.00 to $4.00), Walker and American ($2.00), Albion, Russell, Revere, ($1.50), may be mentioned as among the best (S^e advts.) KING STREET. The Town was first established on the banks of the river Don, at the head of the harbour, and in the far east end of the present city. At the shores of this river begins King, the east and west entry of the city, the main street of the original village, as it is now of the grown up community. Upon the site where now exists the unattractive but massive stone proportions of the " Old Gaol," stood the original and first Bouses of Parliament of the Province of Upper Canada. The Buildings were of wood and not of very imposing character, but they con- tained " two elegant halls," for the accomodation of the Legislature and the Courts of Justice. At the time of the American foray in 18 13, these, together with the library and all the papers and records, were burned, the church was robbed and the town library pillaged. Strangely enough the Public Buildings at Washington, were a few months afterwards destroyed by a British force, and this was considered at the time a fair reparation for the damages effected at Toronto. The town market-place used to be in the block between the St Lawrence Hall and Church street, opposite where St James' Cathe- dral now stands. The land is still the property of the city, and the revenue from the ground leases contributes to decrease the taxation of the citizens. TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CAN J ^A, 51 Here, as late as 1834; the stocks and pillory used to be set up; and it is on record that a certain Elizabeth Ellis was, for " being a nuisance," condemned to stand in this pillory for two hours on each of two market days. Seeing that these ancient instruments of punishment have long since been removed, we may be satisfied that the ladies of this fair city are now free from any such imputation ; indeed, any one who makes his afternoon stroll along the fashionable strolling grounds, that is to say, between Church and York sfeets, on the south side of King street, at the fashionable hour of four in the after- noon — particularly on Saturday afternoons — will see such glimpses of beauty, combined with bright complexions and hearty healthfulness, that he will admit the justice of the reputation for pretty faces and good nature which is so widely conceded to the young ladies of Toronto. King street continues westward, lined by the best of the retail stores, and after penetrating Parkdale — the " flowery suburb " — loses itself upon the banks of the Humber Bay, thus connecting together the two rivers which, east and west, bound the plateau upon which the city is built. > '1 YONGE STREET. The streets of Toronto are all laid out at right angles to one another. This, no doubt, takes away from its picturesqueness, but contributes to its convenience, as, once the bearings of the compass have been ascertained, the visitor can scarcely lose his way. Roughly speaking, the water side is to the south ; the streets starting from the Bay run north — the others, crossing them, run east and west. They are all of good width, many are block-paved and boulevarded, and most are fringed with trees-— a feature which in time will add greatly to their appearance. ,, Yonge street, at the foot of which the steamers laud, is perhaps the longest street in the world ; at all events, the palm is given to it by George Augustus Sala in his " Streets of the World," It was pro* 62 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. jected in 1793 to form a " portage to the upper lakes without the necessity of going up Lake Erie, and passing Detroit." The intersection of King and Yonge streets may be taken to be the centre of the city's life, and forms a sort of Quaire-voieSt or Four Crossway^ from which a starting point may well be made. Forty years ago, Yonge street, between King and Queen streets, was well-nigh impassable ; and when the road-bed was excavated for the present block pavement, remnants were still found of the old corduroy road which once served to keep the ox-carts of the early settlers afloat through this slough of Despond. A good tanner named Jesse Ketchum then lived alongside, and his name is here per- petuated by the " Bible House," the ground on which it stands having been given by him to the " Bible and Tract Society " on condition that they would annually expend the amount of the ground rent in Bibles, and distribute them to scholars in the public schools — an annual ceremonial which is never omitted, and always is productive of great interest. Built as a Government work, for forty-six miles Yonge street became the main artery for settlements to the north, its roadsides soon were lined with the houses of settlers, and the name of " street" thereby just- ified. An early incident is pleasantly embalmed in " Toronto of Old,' that "A story is told of a tourist, newly arrived at Yoik, wishing to util- ize a stroll before breakfast by making out as he went along the where- abouts of a gentleman to whom he had a letter. Passing down the hall of his hotel, he asked in a casual way, of the book-keeper, * Can you tell me where Mr. So-and-so lives ?' (i^'isurely producing the note from his breast pocket) ; 'it is somewhere along Yonge street here in your town.' ' Oh, yes,' was the reply, when the address had been glanced at ; * Mr. So-and-so lives on Yonge street, about twenty-five miles up !' " Having now got the bearings of the two main arteries, we may wander more at large. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 08 Map of Toronto. Showing the principal streets and public buildings, (Street Car Routes are marked in dotted lines.) V / to 54 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, STREET CARS. The Ftreet car system is being rapidly extended, and is even now such that with a little consideration all parts of the city can be reached by their means. The routes covered are shown in the attached plan of the city, and the cars are plainly marked with the names of the principal streets along which they run. Fare for continuous trip, 5c.; six fares, 25c. The Street Car Routes. COLOUR STARTING CARS MARKED. ROUTE. LIGHT. POINT. " . / . .1 _;_ King Blue. Don Bridge. King to Strachan Avenue. Yonge.. Red. Market. King, Yonge to North Toronto Station. Queen White. / ' ' There are many electrotypes of art treasures in the London South Kensington Museum — casts of gems, medals, coins, etc. ; and alto- gether an Art collection of singular excellence. ' ^ Here school-boys and scholars will find materialized — either in picture or in sculpture — many of the personages or events with which they meet in their reading ; and if this collection were intelligently used and referred to, it would be found that much additional interest and zest would be given thereby to reading and to study. There is a good catalogue for sale at the office — price 25 cents. Entrance is free throughout the year from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on week-days, except on Christmas and New Year's days. The private residences of Toronto present a genuine air of quiet and comfort,^ and in this district a very fair example may be seen of their character. On Jarvis street is the Baptist Church — one of the most picturesque in the city ; the interior is of amphitheatrical form, thus giving great play of outline to the exterior, to which the Queenston brown stone. New Brunswick red granite, and ornamental \ ii»» LAKES JOSEPH ^N« ROSSEAU DRAWN FOR ASHDowN "The Northern Lakes of Canada" Copytight /^86. Barlow Cumberland. Miles In J.R*l '^ Skeleton Lake OA 'OS? yilvree CD ":*;»^ '/.I vX> ish Govefntnent some thirty years ago, and during that time and now meteorological observations are made and recorded by skilled ob- servers, every minute without intermission ! a quiet, unostentatious pursuit of scientific knowledge, which few are aware goes on in their midst. The monstrosity in red brick alongside, is the School of Technology, McMaster College^ the training college for the Baptist clergy, is at the head of the Queen's Park. This was founded and endowed by the Hon. Wm. McMaster, a wealthy resident of Toronto, and its handsome Credit Valley stone facade forms a very effective grouping in the midst of the surrounding trees. KNOX OOLLEGB— TORONTO. Further to the West of the Park is Knox College, well situated at the head of Spadina Avenue. This is the headquarters of the educational work of the Presbyterian Church of Canada. The Col- lege was formed in 1844, and is well endowed. The present build- ings were erected in 1875, and are occupied by six professors and about one hundred students. -i,*^' 72 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, On the east side of the Queen's Park is St. Michatts Col/ege, oc- cupying an excellent position on the crown of Clover Hill. Here is carried on the higher education of the Roman Catholic body of the Province of Ontario. Close by it is the excellent young ladies' school, kept in St. Mary's Convent by the nuns of the order. TRINITY COLLEGE. In the west end of the city, and standing in its own grounds, Trinity College, built in the early English style, has a quaint scholastic air. The facade is pleasantly diversified with cut stone dressings and projecting bay windows, while the bell turrets above (yclept by the students " pepper pots ") add much to the appearance* The newly added Chapel^ whose plain exterior rather mars the continuity of the facade, is admirably finished and arranged in its interior, and is worthy of inspection. The Convocation Hall has a handsome oak roof highly carved, and portraits of founders and chancellors of the University. The students' quarters are in the wings. The College is the seat of the Anglican or Episcopal Church in Canada under a Royal charter, and was erected by the exertions of Bishop Strachan in 185 1. It has an outlying branch in " Trinity School,*' at Port Hope, a boys' i v^ ^i THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 78 school of rare excellence, and founded and conducted on the lines of the great English public schools. The University of Trinity College and the University of Toronto are the only corporations having power to confer degrees, the other colleges being colleges of instruction "in affiliation." It will be readily seen that Toronto is thus quite a " University City," and when during the winter the Colleges are in session there are fully 1,500 students in residence. In addition to these, the Toronto Veterinary College^ numbering on an average 300 students, has a Continental reputation, and some first- class Business Colleges are also in operation. On the western limits of the city, upon the shores of the beautiful curve of the Humber Bay, is the High Park, comprising 400 acres of hill and dale of varied wood-land seenery. The Humber River affords pleasant boating jaunts, and the views over the lake, from the high lands in the rear, are well worth the drive. In Parkdale will be found TJie Home for Incurables, one of the most perfectly conducted charities of the city. Visitors are cordially welcomed. The view from the top of the central tower gives a better idea of the geographical location of the city than is obtainable from any other place, and is worth seeing. . The Exhibition Buildings, most prominently set on the Lake shore, are complete in every respect, and at the time of the Fall Fairs in September are thronged with visitors from all parts. The grounds are open and maintained by the city as a park, with flower gardens in the summer, making a pleasant and cool drive. The Central Prison for men, and the Mercer Reformatory or Prison for women, are open to visitors upon orders from the Government Inspector of Prisons. In the Provincial Lunatic Asylum^ with large central dome and wide extending wings, are collected the insane from all parts of Ontario. At the intersection of King and Simcoe streets are Upper Canada College, the oldest boys' school in the Province, and St. Andreu/s 74 THE NORTH ERl^ LAKES OP CANADA, Church, a splendid edifice in the old Scotch baronial style, of massive stone-work and arched windows, the abode of the " Old Kirk.'' Government House, the palatial residence of the Lieutenant- c/: O K H Pi w > o o Eh O o o » 9 EH » » O (J Q Eh n « O Q CO 03 H Governor of Ontario, is on the opposite corner. The valley which winds through the gardens h the last reminiscence of " Russell's Creek," up whfch Governor Simcoe used to row from the Bay when THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 75 he first chose Toronto to be his capital. The gardens are well kept, and the conservatories well stocked. In the interior is a very hand- some main entrance hall, with grand staircase j to the .eft is the suite of Presence Chambers, in which the receptions and levees are held. Beyond these are the conservatories and ball-room. In the dining- room is a fine collection of life-size portraits of the Governors of Upper Canada from its cession to the British Crown. Permission to view the interior must be obtained by letter from the A.D.C. in waiting. There are many other fine buildings ; among them The Post-Office, and the many surrounding Financial Insti- tutions upon Toronto street, which is fast becoming the Lombard or Wall street of Toronto. Upon King street will have been noticed a fine building bearing the title, " Manning's Arcade \ " passing through the archway in its centre, access is gained to The Grand Opera House. The interior is of good form, and has a seating capacity of 2,300, with a large and spacious stage adapted to the production of the most exacting plays. The traditions of the house include reminis- cences of the best modern actors — Fechter, Irving, Booth, Boucicault, Neilson, Bernhardt, and others. Toronto audiences are proverbially of high requirements and acute taste — no doubt in great degree from the large and educated student population, whose approval and POST-OFFICE. ■ -- I. .n ■.:'.; r %. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y ^ / O A O >^\i^ Ko i/.x ■^ III ''^ 1^1 2J I.I 1.25 '- 1. 1.4 M |20 1.8 1.6

76 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. disapproval'of the plays sub- mitted to its criticism is frequently expressed in un- mistakeable terms. This healthy expression of mer- curial temperament— pulsa- ting with the progress of the action on the stage—is of like character with that found at the theatres in Dublin ; and thus it is that not a few companies — the fascinating Adelaide Neilson's among them — have preferred to submit new plays to the audiences at "the Grand" before bringing them to the less exacting and more coldly undemonstrative audiences of the United States. In the outskirts of the city are many pleasant drives : TJie Valley of the Don, Todmorden, Norway, Davenport, etc., while the Summer afternoon water excursions by steamers to Niagara, Victoria Park, Scarbord Heights, Humber Bay, Mitnico, Oakville, Hamilton, etc, at fares from 25 cents to $1.00, serve to diversify the viator's stay. Situated as Toronto is, upon the shores of Lake Ontario, the summer heats are tempered by the presence of the broad expanse of water and attendant breezes j Whatever may have been the heat of the day, it rarely ever extends into the night, so after sundown the cool air and soft summer evenings make the city— what it reaUy is-a pleasant lake-side resort. UBAND OPBRA HOUSB. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 77 Off for a Real Good Fish. Gentleman (to ^ocer) — " Two gallons Santa Cruz, one gallon Old Tom, two galbns Maryland Club, four dozen Pommeiry Sec, four- dozen Milwauj:^e and six boxes of Reina Vies." Grocer- * /es, sir. That all, sir ?" Gentleman — " Er — Do you keep fishing tackle ?" Grocer — "Yes, sir, full line, sir." Gentleman — " Ah — Put in a couple of fish hooks." The Northern Lakes* Our tourists will now direct their attention to the trip to the " Inter- ior," and the country stretching 200 miles northward of Toronto, to- wards the Georgian Bay and the Inland Lakes. Until recently it was a wilderness, but within twenty years or so numerous towns and hamlets have sprung up ; many summer hotels have been opened at attractive points, and settlers have poured in with a rapidity equal to the settle- ment of many parts of the Western States. Railroads have pene- trated into its heart. Steamboats ply upon its larger lakes, and some excellent highways traverse its length and breadth. It is emphati- cally a country of forests, lakes, and rivers. The lakes vary greatly in size, ihe larger ones thirty and forty miles in length, and the smaller ones mere ponds, but clear and deep, and all abounding in salmon-trout, perch, black-bass and speckled trout. the northern and north-western railway Is one of the connecting links between the frontier and the interior. Leaving Toronto by one of the express trains furnished with fine parlour cars, the passengers will pass through a populous and rich country, with substantial farm houses and extensi/e saw-milis at in- tervals, along the whole line. The appointments of the railway are 78 THE NORTEEBhj^AKES OF CANADA. first-class, and the station houses, models of neatness and beauty, have tasteful flower gardens and lawns attached, with jets of water spurting from fountains that cool and refresh the plants. At Parkdale will be noticed the Subway^ by which Queen street, the great east and west artery of the city, passes under the converging railways. At this point the Canadian Pacific, Grand Trunk and Northern Railways all enter the city. The growth of the suburbs shows itself along the next couple of miles, where the houses are gradually creeping farther and farther into the country and streets of buildings occupy the receding farms. At four miles is Davenport ^ a hill side locality fast filling with sub- urban residences, having a pretty station, with flower-garden and high- gabled roof. On the left between this station and Weston, is seen the Valley of the Humber River and the heights of the Caledon Hills which close the distant view to the west Toward the south will be seen the blue outline of the lake with the wooded points about Mimico jutting out into its waters. The height of land between Lakes Ontario and Huron, which is reached at twenty-six miles from Toronto, is 755 feet above the level of Lake Ontario, and 415 feet above that of Lake Huron. A few miles beyond King the line passes by not a few curves through " The Ridges." Here, within the confines of a single farm, the waters diverge on either side the summit of the water-shed. One slreamlet running south forms the tiny headwaters of the infant HumbeTy whose mouth debouches into Lake Ontario at Toronto, the other winds its way northward to the Holland River on its way to the Georgian Bay, and ihence returns by Lake Erie and over the Niagara Falls to reunite their waters in Lake Ontario, after a circuit of over Soo miles. The train emerges from the turnings among the hills and on the left is caught a pleasant view over the finely nurtured farms of the " Vale of Aurora'' The hill-sides dotted with comfortable farm ^tpadings, the rounded copses of hardwood trees and the spires of TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 79 the little village churches give a picture which might be taken out of fair England itself. "Gkn Lonely " the ancestral home of the descendants of the Cheva- lier de St. George, ^^ Larchmere** of the Baldwins and **Eimwcods*^ the country house and stock farm of W. Mulock, Esq., the Member for the County, are among '.he favourite holdings in this favoured Vale, which has a well-earned renown for the excellence of its horses and its sheep. ' Next is Newmarkety the county town of the County of York, with a population of 5,000. A place of considerable age and importance, and the headquarters of some energetic manufacturing interests. The corner-stone of the picturesque church on the hill-side to the left, was laid by His Excellency Lord Dufferin, during his progress- in 1874. In a little while a small stream will be noticed on the right, meander- ing sometimes through grassy meadows and again through groves of forest elms. It is the first gathering of the Holland River and the first water on which used to be shipped the canoes of the Indians and of the voyageurs, in times long past, after they had passed over the carrying place or " portage" from the harbour at Toronto. By it came the fierce invading Iroquois when they made their too successful incursions and decimated the tribes of the Hurons that lived between the banks of Lake Simcoa and the shores of the Georgian Bay. Along this valley, too, were carried the munitions of war and the materials for the equipment of the naval squadron and the Navy-yard, which, in the early years of the country, was maintained at Penetanguishene. Holland Landings 'flow a quiet and picturesque village, was the point at which the heavy goods were transferred to the large batteaux for transport across Lake Simcoe. Its pretty white church, with square tower stands on the hill-side to the right, and long ago looked down upon a busy scene, when all the business of the North passed on long lines of heavy laden waggons beforei its doors. Sir John Franklin called here when on his first expedition overland to the North Pole in 1825, and in 18^7 Gait passed by on his way to Goderich, via Penetanguishene. 80 TSS NORTHERN LAKES Oil CANADA. Near by, on the village green rests a gigantic anchor, which having come all the way over the sea from Her Majesty's dockyards, in England, and by the laborious work of sixteen yoke of oxen, been hauled thus far on its way to the " Navy Yard," was interrupted on its THE ANCHOR AT HOLLAND LANDINO. journey by the declaration of peace, and now remains to form a quaint monument and record of the early days of the Great Portage. Bradford (42 miles) is at the crossing of the river and close to the Holland River Marsh, a locality celebrated among sportsmen for its abundant supply of partridge, snipe, wild duck and hares. There is THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 81 good trolling in the river for maskinonge. First-class accommoda- tion can be got at Bingham's Hotel, Bradford, and information respect- ing guides, punts, etc. LAKE SIMCOE. At Zt/roy is seen the first view of Za^g Simeon, the first of the various chains of inland lakes which are now met with in succession. Stages run regularly to Beiie Ewart^ i ^ miles on the shore of the Lake, here called Cook's Bay. A name given by Lieutenant-Governor Simcoe, after Captain Cook, the great circumnavigator of the globe, who had been master of the ship " Pembroke," on which the Lieut.-Gover- nor's father was captain during the expedition against Quebec, in 1759 ; Major Holland, after whom the river was named, also served in the same conquest A ferry steamer keeps up constant connection with Roaches Poinf^ whose houses can be seen on the opposite shore of the Bay. This pretty village is much frequented by tourists in summer on account of its nearness to Toronto and excellent boating and fishing — bass, trout and maskinonge — Raike's Hotel and several family boarding- houses. Serpent Island will be seen on the lake, where linger a few rem* nants of the Huron tribe who even still continue to make pilgrim- ages to join their brethren on the Christian Islands at their annual tribal gatherings. Allandale is the junction point of the Northern and North- Western Railway system. Here join together from the south the North- Western Branch from Hamilton and the Northern Branch from Toronto. Three lines radiate north. The Muskoka Branch to the Lakes of Muskoka, Callandar, the Canadian Pacific and the all rail route round the north shores of Lake Superior. 17ie Penetatguishene Branch to Midland, Matchedash and Penetang Bays, and the Parry Island Archipelago (42 miles). 77ie CotHngwood Branch to Collingwood, on the shore? of the Georgian Bay, where connection is made with the splendid steamers F 82 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, of the " Collingwood Lake Superior Line," for the grand tour of Lake Superior, Thunder Bay, Silver Islet, Nipegon, etc., the water route to the North- West, via Port Arthur and Duluth and Georgian Bay Line the Great Northern Transit Co. for Manitoulin Islands, the Great North Channel, Mackinac, Sault Ste. Marie, Parry Sound, etc. An excellent refreshment station is maintained at this junction, and trains stop for meals. The monument in the garden was erected by the men of the railway to the memory of Col. Fred. W. Cumberland, who for twenty-two years was General Manager of the Company. During that time he had succeeded in conducting the railway to the satisfaction of the people whom it served and in winning the personal attachment of every man in his employ. The Bronze is an excellent likeness—the work of a Canadian artist, Mr. F. Dunbar. The arm of Lake Simcoe on which the station stands, is Rempen fildi Bay, named after another naval hero, whose loss with all hi^ crew by the sinking of the Hoyai George, when lying at anchor in harbour at Spithead, sent a thrill throughout the world. His R\.'ord was in its sheath. His fingers held the pen, When Kempenfeldt when down, With twice four hundred men. — COWPER. Barrie, the county town of the County of Simcoe, is a prosperous place of 5,000 inhabitants. Its houses and church spires rising picturesquely upon the sloping hill sides, are seen on the opposite shores of the bay, around the head of which the railway comes. Barrie is a delightful summer resort, with an excellent fleet of boats and vachts, some of which will be seen lying at their , y anchorages j and there are some good fishing streams in the neigh- bourhood. The steamer connects from Barrie with the new summer hotel at Big Bay Point, nine miles down the Kempenfeldt Bay, where it joins with the main water of the lake and forms a splendid place for TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 83 '& excursion parties, for whom very favourable rates are made {see adv.) Apply to Isaac Robinson, AUandale. In passing down the bay some admirably situated private resi- dences will be seen on both shores at Shanty Bay on the north, and Strath Allan on the south. The main water being entered, Lake Simcoe is one of the largest inland Lakes of Ontario, being 30 miles long and 16 m:*es broad. Its shores are characterized by great sylvan beauty. At Keswick may be seen the charmingly situated resort of one of the great lumber kings of the country, and many of the other choice spots begin to be occupied with the summer residences of the more wealthy inhabitants. Serpent Island, Lighthouse, and other islands are at the south end. Sutton is pleasantly situated upon a sheltered bay on the south shore of the lake, and is the terminus of the Nipissing Branch of the G. T. Railway. The steamer then skirts the upper shore, of the lake, past deep bays, whose wooded promontories jut out picturesquely into the lake, and sighting Atherly, after an easy run of two hours, passes Grape and other islands closely clustered together, ?r d enters the " Narrows," the wat|||: channel joining Lake Simcoe «/icn Lake Couchich- ing, of which the first view is here gained, and passing through the swing bridges of the Muskoka and Midland Railways, soon, upon a point stretching out into the lake, is seen the Couchiching Park. The steamer rounds the point, and our " water tourist " is landed at Orillia. Continuing on by rail from Barrie, the train skirts the shores of Lake Simcoe and pleasant vistas of its waters are gained. Near Hawkstone are some excellent speckled trout streams. The train plunges into an almost continuous line of forest and, emerging once more on the shore of the lake, a view is seen (to the right) of Grape Island and the others grouped together at the head of Lake Sirjcoe. 84 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, Thfj rails curve across the neck of land between the lakes and reach Orillia. Fast rising in importance, the town is situated at the foot of Lake Couchiching upon a hill side facing the water. ,It is a favourite centre of summer travel, the hotels excellent and the neigh- bourhood enjoyable. Close by is the beautiful Couchiching Park and the neighbourhood gives scope for pleasant rides and drives, while sailing and boating, and the steamers " Orillia," " Cariella," etc., on Lakes Siracoe and Couchiching, afford opportunities for GRAPE ISLAND— LAKE SIMCOE. charming water parties and picnics, A pretty trip of fifteen miles is made by the steamer Orillia through the Narrows to Sirawberry Is- land^ situated at the head of Lake Simcoe. It is forty-five acres in extent, partially cleared and partially wooded. Strawberry Island Hotel is an excellent summer resort with fine sandy beach for bathing {sec advt,), good boating and camping. The fishing for black bass in the neighbourhood is renowned, particularly at Starvation Island^ whose fame is well known among adepts. Capt C. Mclnnes, Orillia, will answer all questions. Among rrher points of interest on the lakes to the visitor from Orillia are the Ojibbeway settlement of Indians at Rama, Chief Is- {> TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. I 86 land, Longford, the Quarries, the Rapids and Falls of the Severn, and Washago, at the head of Lake Couchiching. LAKE COUCHICHING. , Couchiching ! WHl may the curious tourist, struck by the pec3* ^ arity of the name, ask its meaning. Indian nomenclature is air a ™- appropriate and descriptive ; here the varying breezes, welcome ad- juncts of a summer resort, that fan the surface of the lake, have given the TnHian name for *' Lake of many winds." This locality is among the highest in Ontario, being 750 feet above Lake Ontario, 415 above Lake Huron, and 390 feet above Lake Superior j and it is the next lake to Lake Simcoe in the chain that empty their waters by the River Severn into the Georgian Bay and Lake Huron. The rapidity of the rise from Lake Ontario may thus be judged ; and the consequent elevation and clearness of the atmosphere, and the cool breezes, would, apart from any other consideration, be suffi- cient to commend the locality as a favourite one for a summer visit. The black bass, pickerel, and salmon-trout fishing in the lake is most excellent ; and realldy access is gained, from Orillia as a central point, to the celebrated Sparrow Lake, where maskinonge, black bass, speckled-trout, etc., are found in abundance, and the best of duck and partridge shooting in season. The Midland Railway here connects with the Georgian Bay t and excursions may be made to Midland, Penetanguishene, Parry Sound, and to the island district of the lake, and to the trout streams of the rivers Coldwater and Severn. There are a number of summer residences of Canadian citizens around the shores, and the visitor from a distance should not fail to " lay oflF " at Orillia, so that he may thus get a full idesi of the differ- ent chains of lakes, which present marked differences. A pleasant place is the Couchiching Park^ situated on the point of a narrow promontory projecting a mile and a half northward into the lake, and surrounded on three sides by water ; thus, come from whatever quarter it may, every breeze has play, while the lake on the 86 TBH NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. * one side or the other, being protected by the point' from wind and wave, pleasure-boating in safe calm waters can at all times be enjoyed. Drives and shady walks bordering the margins of the lake are tastefully laid out in a park of i8o acres ; and a handsome avenue, three-fourths of a mile in length, winding through forest trees, leads to the stations of the Northern and Midland Railways. Arbours, erected at convenient places on the lake, extend out into the water, where, sheltered from the sun, the views can be enjoyed. A lovelier VIEW AI COUCHICHTNG. sight could not be wished for. From any portion of the buildings, no matter in what direction you look, fine stretches of water, verdure- clad banks sloping to the water's edge, and green forest glades, pre- sent themselves to the eye. Across the bay, in an attractive cove, backed by hills clad to their summits with fresh foliage, lies the now prosperous town of Orillia. To the north, scarcely discernible be- tween the miniature islands that bestud the lake's surface, may be seen the settlement of Ojibbeway Indians, appropriately called B xia, its tin-tipped church spire like a bar of silver under the light of the rising sun, or as a streak of gold under the sunset's dechning rays. ■^ t f!l' THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 87 H r At Rama is the " reservation " of the last i-emnants of the great tribe of the Ojibbeways. Near I^ngford have been carefully preserved some ancient Indian inscriptions, representing one of the early strifes between this tribe and the Iroquois. 1 he figures of men fighting with spears and bows are roughly scratched upon the litho- graphic stone, and some traces of colour still remain. At one time all this surrounding land was occupied by their numerous villages, a population of at least 25,000 being settled around the shores of Lakes Simcoe and Couchiching ; and now but a few survivors remain, seeming, from their shy and distant mann-r, almost shrink- ingly to excuse themselves for still remaining wit us. In « Tecumseh "—that new and thrillinq: poem which should be in every Canadian's hand— graphically rises the prophetic lament of Jenat the Indian maiden : — -%•; M9H '* Oh, it is pitiful to creep in fear 0'«r lands where once our fathers stept in pride ! The Long- Knife strengthens, while our race decays. And falls before him as our forests fall. His flowers, his very weeds, displace our own — Agressive as himself. All, all thrust back I Destruction follows us, and swifl decay. As Ciouds will sheer small fleeces from their sides. Which, melting in our sight as in a dream. Will vanish all like phantoms in the sky. So melts our heedless n ce I — Mair. In the Park, or around the shores, bathing-houses, dancing plat- * forms, bowling alleys, croquet lawns, and cricket grounds, afford every means of amusement. It is but a short row by water, or ride by land, from Orillia, so that the Couchiching Park is one of the additional advantages for summer stay at this town. Splendid brook trout are caught in the streams in the neighbour- hood, and the finest black bass fishing in America is in these sur- rounding lakes. {See Hallock's Sportsman's Gazetteer.) 88 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. The tourist having " stopped over" either at Orillia or Couchiching is again given choice of two routes, either by " water" on steamer up Lake Couchiching (14 miles), calling at the diflferent little ports, to Washago where the train is again taken : or by '* all rail " by the Northern Railway. After crossing the Narrows swing bridge, the line passes through forests, through which distant views are obtained of Lake Couchiching to the left and Lake St. John to the right. At Longford is a large lumbering establishment, and after Washago, where the water tourists join the train, is the village of Severn Bridge. The place takes its name from the noble stream, the Severn, which runs westward throughout, draining the whole area of its great tribu- tary the The Black River and of Lake Simcoe into the Georgian Bay. *" SEVERN RAPIDS— SPARROW LAKE. SPARROW LAKE. First among the sporting districts of the Northern Lakes, met on the northward trip, is the Severn River. At Severn Bridge the tourist will take boat or steamer, and^after'a short run*down the River Severn, reach H, i THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 89 Sparrow Lake has long been celebrated for the excellence of its fishing, but particularly for the deer, duck and ruffled grouse shooting obtainable in their proper s/jasons. Many spots are available for pic-nics and camping, especially near the rapids at the lower end. Proceeding further down the river, an interesting canoe route is available, and easily traced through Beaver, Legs and Pine Lakes, with short portages to Gravenhurst, for which Indians and canoes can be got at Rama. An easy one day excursion to Sparrow Lake ?' and return can be made from Orillia. ! Proceeding down the Severn River, a splendid fishing trip can be made following the stream through Six-Mile Bay and Gloucester Pool to its outlet in Georgian Bay, opposite Waubaushene and Pen- etanguishene. There are many portages and difficult rapids. The trip should, therefore, not be attempted without guides. Canoe and guide will cost about $2.00 per day. These can be obtained at ^ Rama or Orillia. The Severn is the line of division between '^ the frontier counties and of the Free Grant district of Muskoka, which is here entered. Having crossed the river upon a lofty bridge, the line passes the height of land separating the Lakes of Muskoka from Lake Couchiching. False impressions of the free grant district are frequently taken from the appearance of the country seen along this part of the trip ; but, as on the south side there are tracts of fine farming land, so, to the nofth, this ridge being passed over, lies the wide arable country which is being so rapidly peopled by thrifty settlers. The Kasheshebogamog^ a small stream with a very long name, is a few miles afterwards crossed. This awful word is usually observed to have such a knock-down effect upon strangers that they subside into a gentle melancholy for the rest of the trip, apparently lost in ' r^ wonder at the ingenuity which could invent so big a name for so small a river. Some folks of extra powers of mind have been known to enquire the name of the next creek, but such cases are few and far between. It may have been noticed that south of Washago, being the coun- try adjacent to the Lake Siracoe Chain of Lakes, all the rocks are of H 90 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. limestone formations. After passing the Severn nothing but granite meets the eye ; massive in form, deep red in colour, and with a mi- caseous sheen shining through it. As we wind through the " divide" the granite rocks raise high their lofty sides, bluff cliffs overhang the railway as it curves around their w.j.wrici.'SfLi bases, in some places the front portion of the Train is lost to sight from the rear, but finally the " Granite Notch" is reached, and the railway slips through a natural gap, fortunately left for its passage by nature. TEE NOhTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 91 At twenty-seven miles from Orillia (115 from Toronto) is Gravm- hurstj a rising village at the foot of the chain of the " Lakes of Mus- kokay* and the point of transfer to the steamer for this, the second chain of lakes. From Niagara Falls via HamUton. In addition to the route by the Niagara Riv^ir, ke Ontario and Toronto, access to these inland lakes is gained via Hamilton. The Grand Trunk Railway from Suspension Bridge passes through a beautiful country, well cultivated, and full of orchards, which line the fore-shore at the foot of the high elevation which follows the lake, and at the foot of which the railway runs. Near Merritton th* railway passes under the Welland Canal, by a short tunnel, and a passing glimpse is got of the magnificent new locks of the New Welland Canal and of the smaller and more pic- turesque locks and weir-gates, with miniature water-falls of the Old canal. ^t. Catharines^ the Sanatarium of Western Canada, and whose health-restoring waters have a world-wide reputation, is seen to the right on the farther side of the valley through which the old Welland Canal finds its way to the waters of Lake Ontario, and soon the lake itself comes into view. At the foot of its " Mountain " nestles THE CITY OF HAMILTON. Transfer is here made from the Grand Trunk to the station of the Northern and North- Western R. R, the only line whose trains run to the Lakes of Muskoka. , The city is built upon one of the steps or terraces which surround the lake, and would appear to have at one time formed the immedi- ate shore. Looking down from the elevation of the " Mountain," its streets slope away towards the lake and diminish in the distant perspective. The form of the harbour, closed in from the open water by the Burlington Beach, is clearly limned, and away to the left 92 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. stretches the pretty valley in the midst of which can be seen the spires and chimnies of the little town of Dundas. Before Hamilton was Dundas had been. At this latter place., as being the head of navigation, which by means of the Burlington Canal was extended to its verj' doors, in early days had been con- centrated the busy commerce of all the country west. To this place came for shipment to the sea all the golden grain, and back from it HAMILTON FROM THE MOUNTAIN. trailed the heavy waggons laden with the merchandise purchased in exchange. But times have changed. The construction the of Great Western Railway altered the course of ^business and the young rival, Hamilton, has grown into the dimensions of a city of the first-rating, while decorous seemly old age has set its placid mark upon the more ancient town. Hamilton has been fortunate in its inhabitants, — men of nerve, energy and combination. They have, whatever may h ve been their internal competitions, always pulled together for the weal of their fair city. THE NORTHERN iLAKES OF CANADA, 93 Reaching out to bring commerce to their doors, they created the construction of the Great "V^'^estem, and Wellington Grey and Bruce to the west ; the Northern and North-Westem R. R.'s to their north, and the Lake Erie R.R. to the south — and thus their city has become the largest manufacturing centre in Ontario, and its forwa»-d progress for ever secured. To-day Hamilton prod.uces or.e t'lirty fourth in value of all the manufacturas produced throughout the Dominion, and consumes one-fourteenth of ail the coal used in the Province of Ontario. At the foot of the mountain will be seen the handsome homes of some of its merchant princes. The large building with wide extended wings on the crest of the hill, is the Government Lunatic Asylum. In the centre of the city are the prettily kept gardens of the " Gore of Hamilton," and around it some business edifices which would do credit to any capital. Few better are to be found anywhere than the " Canada Life " and the " Post Office " Buildings. Dundurn Park, on the heights towards the edge of the bay, is a favourite resort. The Royal Hotel, centrally situated on the main street, is fully recommended. From Hamilton the connection to the Northern Lakes of Canada is by the North Western R.R. After running for some distance through the town the railway reaches BURLINGTON BEACH. Across the upper end of Lake Ontario, where the shores of the Lake have approached within five miles of one another, the sweeping action of the easterly storms has in long centuries formed a narrow continuous bank or bar of sand, stretching from shore to shore and varying from 600 to 1,000 feet in width. On the east the rollers of Lake Ontario toss their surge ; to the west, protected by it, lie the placid waters of Burlington Bay^ the harbour of Hamilton. Com- posed oi clear shingly pebbles and pure sharp sand, its five miles length of level continuous beach resembles the sea-shore in its ex- tent, and the distant blue horizon of the great Lake, where the sails 94 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, of passing vessels fade away and disappear beneath its edge, adds to the illusion. The railway runs along the crown of the bank between the separated waters ; a large number of pretty private residences have been erected by the citizens of Hamilton, and near the swing bridge over the canal which has been cut through the bank to joiu the lake and the harbour, is the pretty Burlington Beach Station. The Burlington Beech Hotel is just opposite the station. Its un- rivalled situation and fresh and airy surroundings make it a very favourite resort, and visitors from a distance enjoy the fresh breezes together with many of the members of families of Hamilton, whose business does not permit them to go farther away from home. Bowling alleys and billiard rooms in separate buildings, and a fleet of row boats on the bay side, give plenty of scope for amusement, while for any one who is fond of yachting, there is scarcely a more favourable position on the inland lakes. The yachts of the Hamil- ton Yacht Club are moored just behind the hotel and excellent sail- ing craft can be hired for sails down the lake. The fast iron steamer " Southern Belle " keeps up daily communi- cation between Toronto and Hamilton, calling at Oakville, with its acres of strawberries, and at Burlington Beach each way, giving a pretty coasting trip of thirty-three miles along the shores between the two cities. THE NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. Having crossed over the Swing Bridge, the railway commences to make its ascent to the upper levels of the interior. High bridges spanning deep gullies are from time to time met with. At George- town (36 miles) is met the Grand Trunk R.R., by which tourists from Western Canada come, and at Cardwell Junction^ at the foot of the Caledon Hills, connection is made with the Owen Sound Branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The country passed through exhibits all that could be desired from a fanning point of view, particularly near Beetouy where the hill sides rolling up in closer profusion, show breadths of grain and pasture that tell of solid agricultural knowledge of high degree, and of the wealth which does not fail to follow it . THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 95 At Btaton is the centre of the honey interest of Ontario — What was once a pastime has by hard-headed intelligence been brought to be a talented Lasiness craft, and the tons of honey marketed at this " Bee town " affect the markets of the whole world. There are regular oee-farms and bee-nurseries. The pedigrees of the hives are as closely watched and cared for as those of herds of cattle, and. isolated islands dn the Georgian Bay are brought into requisition for the purity and nurture of the parent swarms. All this has brought the honey product from being only a few years ago a rarity, mainly in the hands of chemists, to be a common article in daily use. At this point the railway divides into two branches ; the one going off by the Blue Mountains and the valley of the Mad River to join the Georgian Bay at Collingwood. The other by a short run through a pretty country bnngs the train to the junction station at Allandale. My Little GirPs First Fisli. My thoughts often travel back to my early fishing days. I cannot remember my first trout or my first bass, or even my own first fish. I imagine this epoch occurred when I wore petticoats and short breeches but I can, and always will remember the first fish of the little girl that calls me papa. About the time she could talk she began to take an interest in my fishing-tackle, and whenever I brought out the box containing it she was my interested audience. She asked over and over again the name of each particular article the box contained, and was soon able to inform her mother, whom she thought not so well posted, what each article was for. Early in her little life she administered a rebuke on this subject to her cousin, a little boy, several years her senior. He said : " Uncle, how many fish-poles have you got ? " Her prompt comment was : " Those are not fish-poles, they are fish-wf its sur< )f sodden :es contri- , with the e clear at- does not ter a suffi- ce of the leable and loticed in ; they are Rooha "H— i. ON '*■ -;s? 5^- «.♦' '« \ J* ')'< 1^^ ■Wn:^^' w< ..^*t] WiLLIAnfOK&4 '^BOOKSCLLEIRS^ TOF^QRTO ' — ^ ^-^^ AH,y • 5001^ I K- TMIS- (aTALOCUE ^SEhO-rRCE-^YMAILON^ :iPT or Price: ■«.,;.»,,::,» '•' P/->.^»'.f8o«>MW»rj, 'v-t .,■; I Colored plalcs >2.25. Ttui Oante Fiah of Northcrtt VntUfl Statea and Catutda, By R. B. Rossevelt. lUustratod. $£35. Fty Boda nnd Fly Tr«kU\ *Su!;Kestions as to the manufacture and use. By H. P. Wells. Illustrated, i^s.oo. Thfi Modem Frantteal Angler. A complete guide to Fly Fishing, Bottom Fishing and Trolling. By H, Pru- nell. niuetrated. i^i.25. The Book of the Pike. ByH. Prunell. Illustrated, jfi.as. The Complete Angler ; or, The Contemplative Man'a Recreation. By Isaak Walton and Charles Cotton. With six original etchings and two portraits. 450 pp. iii^io.so. Fly Flaking. Salmon, Trout and Grayting. By Edward Harailton, M.D. $2.00. Frank Foreater'a Flah and Fluhing. Illustrated frotti nature. By. H. W. Herbert. 1:^2.75. A Frnntleal Guide to Bottom Fisbiiig, TrowHng. Spin- ning and Fly Fishing. By. J. T. Burgess. With numer- ous practical illustrations. 50c. Angling 'i'alka. Being the winter talks on summer pas- times. By Greorge Daw"on. 6<.'c. The Seientlfie Atfgfer. $1.75. Sport vfith Hod and Qun in Canadian and Aincricun Woods and Waters. Beautifully illustrated by Alfred M. Mayer. .'JS-.S )• Atnorlcan^ SporfntHfui. Con tayniriR hints t© sport&m^u notes on shooting, etc: By E. j. Lr:w;s, MD. sJs.oo. Williamson ft. Co., I I Thr rttrht Saihtr. A IroatisMJ on Practical YachUman- ship, CniiBiin? and Racing. By Vanderdeakon. 1^3.00. Mmatt Yachfm. Their design and construction, exemplified by thr rilling types of modern practice, with numerous platftB artd 70 illustrations, by C. P Kunhardt. lijg.oo. Pmetlral iloat Sniflftff. With a short vocabulary ol nautical 'crms. By Douglas Prazar. ilsi.30. Prartlrrt Boat Buildinu- lilustiated. By Kemp. «i.2o. I'rafitirnl Boat SntUnff. By Davis. *2.oo Cnnoe and Bitot BuildiHg. A complete manual for amateurs. Containing plans and comprehensive direc- tions for the construction of anoes, rowing and sailing boats, and hunting craft. With numerous illuotrations and 24 plates of working drawings, by W. P. Stephens. *i.6s. €nnon Hat' lUng, The Canoe— its history, uses, limita- tions and varieties, practical management and care. II- I istratcd by C. Howyer Vanx. ijsi.as. Caitoeltiff in Kanurhin ; or. Haps and MiKhaps Afloat and Ashore. By Norton and Habberton. f 1.75. The Roft Mwff oil th*f Baltic. By John Macgregor. ♦i.as- A Thoit, and Milita in the Bob Boy Canoe. By John Macgregor. $1.25. Voyage Alone in tnc yawl " Rob Roy." By lohn Mac- gregor. *i.5o. The Canoe Auroru,. A cruise -Jin tha Adirondacks to the Gulf. With map.'i of the route. Hy Dr. Charles A. Neide. ili.as. Paddle and Portu-Hf. ^i.so. Camping and Cruiiiing iu Florida. By Dr. Hen- shall. Illustrated. $1.75. Hotr to (Jatnp Out. By John M. Gould. $1.00. Praetiral Uinttt on Camping. By H. Henderson. *i.50. Woodcraft. By Nessmuk. 1)^1.25. Canoe and Camp Cooknry. A practical book for canoe- ists and others. Ey Seneca. ^1.25. C'ampii/te and the Tricksof Trapping. By W. H. Gibson. Illustrated. #1.25. Booksellers, Toronto. I mPS & GUIDE BOOKS -TO— Famous Fishing Districts A NEW MAF of Mnikoka Lakei, Parry Sound, and iripiMing XHstriott. Showing Cano« Ro«Ws mentioned in Barlcw Cumberland's New Gu"de to the Northern Lakes. It also shows Railways. Sorernmeut Roads. F-e Grant Lands, and Lumber UmUs. In cloth case, conveni- ut for the pocket. 7Se. MAP AHB GUIDE BOOK to the Muskoka I»%ke8. Showing all the islands. By Cap.. Rogers, of the Steam Yachr* Sunbean. " Canoeists and Campers will find th.s an invaluable pocke; companion. ff«c. MtTSKOKA, the Pictnresque PUyground of Canada. A portfolio of 12 lithographic views (n x 15) of well-know.i and pictnresque scenes. By Edward Roper. $l.SO. A Large Supply of Light Utei'atHvef»rSnm.»er rftwling nlway» in stock. WILLIAMSON & CO. BOOICSBXjIjEieB, Mo. K King Sfcgeet West. - Toronto < bt, THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 99 Rocks abound throughout ; indeed four-tenths of the country is occupied by rocks and lakes ; but both in the water and on the land the rocks jut directly up, so that alongside the base is immediately a good depth of water or of soil. Thus the w)|ple of the remaining sixty per cent, is available for use, and having these adjacent store- houses of moisture or of heat, its powers are largely improved. Graz- ing is peculiarly successful, and in this branch lies the future of Mus- koka. It will become the dairy and the sheep grazing district of tbC'^ Province, for the rocks oi Muskoka seem to have the facylty^f nur- LAKB MUSKOKA. turing trees, shrubs, and verdure which cling to and cover their sides in a most incomprehensible manner. - The flora of the district is, as might be expected from its situation, peculiar to itself^ and walks through the Tvoods will bring to the un- taught eye many unaccf '.onricd vaneticc and to the educated bota- nist, a rare storehouse of pleasure. One of them says : " The vege- tation is almost tropical m its undisturbed luxuriance. The beautiful white fringed Orchis — tie loveliest of all the Habenarias — and the 100 THB NOBTHBRN LAKBS OF CANADA. spk did Cinnamon and Royal. Osmund ferns grow to perfection in low and moist situations, while the Polypody and the Shield-fern flourish in the higher grounds. In the district are also found, in exceptional abunG|j[^ce, Club-mosses of various species, and the curious Pitcher plant nestles in its moss setting along the margins of the sequestered pools." The district was long occupied by the various sub-tribes of the Hurons, as being a safe asylum from the fury of the warring nations who occupied the shores of Lake Ontario, while its woods and waters afforded them ample sustenance of fish and game. The tract is shown upon the Carte de la Nouvtlle France (Map of New France), published by the early voyageurs and Jesuit Fathers, as lying between the country of the " Atxcien Pays des Hurons'* (Ancient Land of the Hurons) who were destroyed and scattered by the Iroquois in i64g), and the country of the "Fays Outaouais " (Ottawa tribes). Lake Muskoka was then calied by the Fn ' "Fetit Lac des Hu- rcvsy" and Lake Simcoe "Lac Toronto" The origin of the name is, as is the case with all names originating from Indian sources, couched in mystery and subject of different opinions. Some asserf it is derived from the Indian wori " Mus- quo-tah," signifying " red ground," probably owing to its rusty iror^ and ochre-coloured sediments which may be seen in the soils of many of the fields, and .round the banks of some of the streamlets. Others that its meaning is that of the " Clear-sky-land," a signifi- cation which would appear to have some reasonable accuracy, but whatever its meaning may be, we may fairly accept the earliest testi- timony, and join with Mr. Alex. Sheriff, who in his topographical notices, published by the Quebec Historical Society, in i8ti, says: " This river is called the Muskoka, after the Missasaga chief, who used to hunt in some part of its neighbourhood." ft This chief's name is elsewhere spelt " Mesqua-Okee." All Indian names have some attendant meaning ; be this whatever it may, it was borne by a gallant warrior and a bold hunter, whose renown spread through the surrounding country. The home of his tribe was hard by the shores of Lake Ontario, and little was it supposed, when he I THE NORTHEBN LAKES OF CANADA. 101 * sought sport and recreation in this inland paradise of game, that he was leading the way for so many others to follow exactly in his foot- steps, in our later and modern days. Thus we connect the present beautiful and improving district with the romantic and receding past Perhaps some of the writers, to whom Canada is now giving birth, will do for this territory what Fenimore Cooper did for those farther south, or Bulwer Lytton has done for Pompeii, and will re-people these ancient homes with the romance and story cf their earlier In- dian and French occupation. Once more then shall the birch bark canoe, with its dusky occupants, steal through the waters between the silent islands, either in peaceful summer -bright journey, or on expedir tion of deadly internecine hate. * Gravenhurst. This town, now grown to considerable estate, has been always the Gateway to the Muskoka district. Here used to arrive the wearied stages after their fourteer miles jolting over the rocks and through the gullies which line the whole way over the portage from Washago^ where the last transfer was made from the steamers. How many a heart has sank in despair as the forbidding rocks seemed almost to crowd out the soil. Nothing but 'the firm determination to win "independence" has spurred the wayfarer to press still further into " the bush," instead of retiring precipitately after this first acquaintance, whose fallacy is soon sriown once the rocky barrier has been surmounted. Nsxt, in 1879, came the extension of the railway to this point, and from Gravenhurst the busy lumberman or the busier tourist took steamer £0 gain the northern parts of the country, and then in 1886 comes the crowning advance of all, the opening of the Pacific Jlinction Branch right through the heart of the district to the great Lake Nip- pissing, to Callander, and the connection with the Canadian Pacific. Later on we will trace the steps of the traveller along this line of railway, but still taking Gravenhurst as the ** Gateway City," we will follow first along the water route. The town occupies a most eligible site, crowning elevated but not too hilly ground, and encircling deep bays with shores sloping down to the water's edge. On the eastern side of the town is Gull Lake^ S9 102 THM NOHTEBRN LAKMa Of CANADA. V charming little sheet which discharges its waters through the Hock Rock trout stream. The place has considerable trade in the manu- facture and shipment of lumber and timber. There are three churches ; the stores, hc'^els and other establishments are creditable in appearance, and supplies of all kinds can be had at extremely moderate prices. The hotels are commodious, well kept and inex- pensive. The town is in thriving condition, making fine progress and extending rapidly. The immediate neighbourhood aifords con- siderable attraction to the tourist and sportsman. Brook trout (in limited quantities), salmon trout, bass and pickerel in abundance ; deer, partridge, hare and a limited amount of duck shooting — all can be conveniently reached from Qravenhurst as a centre. Pigeon Lake, Deer Lake, and Pine Lake are reached by the Muskoka road to the north-west. Loon Lake, Leg Lake, and Rice Lake are nearer, and more to the west of the town. Doe-^Lake is about two miles to the east. The railway station for the town and where the junction for the Callender extension is made, is on the upper level. The lake station, called Muskoka Wharf, where connection is made with the Mus- koka Navigation Coy's steamers, is reached by a very steep grade winding down a natural gully to the water side. The details of the routes of the steamers is given elsewhere, to which reference should be made. ^ The Muskosh River Chaiu. LAKE MUSKOKA. This is one of the largest o^ the lakes comprised under the generic ¥ term of "The Lakes of Muskoka," being 22 m'iles long and 9 miles wide in its extremest points. It is the peculiarity of these lakes that they are so studded with islands that wide open reaches of rough water are scarcely to be met with. This appears to be less the case with Lake Muskoka than with any others ; but its greater size is the ^ <$ TBE NORTBBRN lAKES OF CANADA. 108 only reason, for it teems with islets (as do all its companion lakes), having, in round figures, an island for every day in the year. Its beauties, in detail, are equal to any other lake, but its larger expanse, and the fact that many of its islands are of large size, and have been allowed, in earlier times, to be burned over, take from its pictur- esqueness. Yet the inhabitants of its islands and shores are enthusi- astic in its praises, and vaunt its features as being above all the others. In common with all the lakes of the district, it affords most splendid fishing. The shores are fringed with islands, and salmon- trout are successfully caught by trolling between them ; black bass and pickerel abound. One certain advantage it has ii accessibility, being the most southerly of all the lakes, so that the visitor coming north arrives earlier and going south leaves later than from any other. But visitors to the Lakes of Muskoka must see, not one, but a/l the lakes ; and so we will start from the dock. To the left is the new village of IVesf Gravmhursf, with busy sawmills, and all around the high bluff, granite rocks dipping steeply into the water, so that ample depth exists right alongside their face* Winding between Pgrcy, Henry^ Mary, and Daisy Jslands, we enter another pool, and, after a little, slip through The Narrows, where there is bare room for the steamer to pass between the rocks, we enter the broadest part of the lake. On the west point is the light- house. Passing up the centre of the lake, on the east, are Kaia^o, Ault- bowrie, and Whitt Islands; while far off to the west are the island settlements of the Denison, Patton, and Moberly families. The largest island is Brownings Island. Next, Eilian-Gowan, the sum- mer house of Mr. Justice Gowan, comes in vielir, where art and love of landscape have been called in to assist the attractiveness of Nature, and walks and drives, glades and grottoes, have been formed to make pleasant this holiday country home. Just opposite this, and winding through the reedy banks which line the shores and forming a sort of delta, are the two mouths of 304 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. ■ir o ^1' V I TBS NOHTHBRN LAKBB Of CANADA. 106 THE MUSKOKA RIVER. Entering by an abrupt turn the steamer winds its way up the tortuous channel. Unlike the banks of all other rivers in Muskoka and all other parts, even of itself, the banks of the Muskoka River, between the entrance to the lake and Bracebridge, are soft alluvial deposits of much richness and great depth. The shores are lined to the water's edge with a profusion of rank vegetation and tangled roots of trees or toppled trunks, whose downward branches sweep the surface of the stream. The water is of a dark brown hue and, completely (|^> sheltered from the wind, its surface has an oily glassiness, wherein is clearly reflected every bough and liitle twig, or the white masses of summer clouds that float across the sky above. The river is full of sudden turns ; at times the prow appears to be headed direct for the opposing land, when with a sudden sweep the boat is turned al* most at right angles, and new vistas with their promontories bathed in sunlight and their cool recesses sunk deep into deeper shadow, come into view. For six miles turn succeeds to turn ; so narrow is the river that we see the surge from the steamer's wheel" lay bare the shore, and boats must either be securely fastened to their stakes or else their anxious owners hurry down to keep them from being swept away by the re* ^.™ current flood. ^^^' At Alport, hard by the celebrated "Muntz Farm," where is the prize-taking herd of Muskoka cattle, we may deliver Her Majesty's mail, and by-and-bye the hills, which we have seen peeping through the vacancies in the forest that fringes the banks, close in, and at the very foot of the " North Falls " is the dock which forms the head of steamboat navigation. Bracebridge — The chief town of the Muskoka District, and, if not its geographical, yet most certainly its business and county centre. Starting in 1861 with two log huts and their attendant potato patches, and only a fallen pine tree for a bridge over the River, it advanced in 1866 to the proud pre-eminence of three bush stores and a tavern, i 106 THE ^ORTBERN LAKES OF CANADA, and now may be congratulated upon being a thriving town, with a stirring and fast increasing population, and possessing accommoda- tion for tourists and travellers' which retain it in its position of being the best starting point from which to explore the river district and to fi wma.KM fioMooit HIGH FALLS. obtain supplies necessary for the trip. It is true the railway now passes through Bracebridge and runs direct to points beyond, but nevertheless the town has obtained such a lead in its hotel and busi- ness advantages, that it will be advisable to continue to avail of them. TSS NOttTHEBN LAKES Of CANADA. 107 f , ") There are five excellent hotels {see advt), Anglican, MflHiodist, Presbyterian, and Roman Catholic churches. A Mechanics* Insti- tute and Library, and Masonic, and Oddfellows Lodges. The town is agreeably situ- ated on the cliffs surrounding the river, and the neighbour- hood merits some sojourn from the tourist to visit its interest- ing surroundings. At a distance of four miles, either by road or along the bank of the Muskoka river, are the High Falls. * In the summer this group of three falls, which are divided from each other by two islands, are best approached from t^ ^ right bank. Very little rock is to be seen in the advance to the river, but when it is reach- ed, the visitor, standing on a parapet one hundred feet above the basin, sees on the one side the rushing fall, and then in front from where the curving basin joins again the river bank, stretches out a long straight canal cut by nature's SOUTH FALLS— MUSKOKA RIVER ^^^^ ^^**^ ^teep walls of deep- est foliage hemming in its sides. But the chief attraction are the GREAT SOUTH FALLS. Above Bracebridge the river is divided into two great branch^ each draining a large area of the country. These two unite in the ' 103 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. neighbilrhood of the town. The Falls of the North Branch are those which are seen from the steamboat landing, but their natural beauty has been sadly interfered with by the necessity of man for bread wherewith to feed, and home wherein to shelter himself and household; thus grist and sawmills abstract the water, and lay bare part of the bed of the stream. THE UPPBB LEAP— SOUTH FALLS. Having crossed through the town above the North Falls, a walk of about three miles brings one suddenly to the bridge which spans the upper "chute" of the Great SouthFalls. In the level t THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 100 country, when nearing the nver, there is nothing to give evidence of the approaching gorge ; and from the bridge, as from a perch high up above, we look downward over the mass of tossing, seething foam. It will be noticed that the river, in its descent of a hundred and thirty feet, makes two perpendicular leaps, joined together by upper and by lower pools, in which the waters boil and swirl between their successive rapid descents. To see the Falls to better effect it is well to clamber down over the rough and slippery crags to the foot of the torrent, about i,ooo feet down from the bridge. The best way, however, tc approach this — the most commanding natural feature of Muskoka, and which if it existed in some Euro- pean country would be considered worth a pilgrimage to visit — is to take canoe down the river f^om Bracebridge. Shortly after passing Beardmore's Tanneries, the South Branch of the river is entered at a point where a unall bridge crosses the entrance. It is a nice row or paddle of three miles to the foot of the Falls. There is one short reach of rapid water, which can be either poled up, ok* one hundred "^zxdA portage made. The flecks of foam floating by on the surface of the stream tell of the approaching change of level ; scon the voice of the mighty waters itself is heard \ and in a little while the whole cataract comes full into \'iiew. Then, passing through the circling white bells of the eddy foot, we step on shore. Looking up along the tumultuous snowing mass, the belts of spray at each successive fall hang over the several steps, and sometimes little rainbows enhance the scene. The water is torn into a whitened foam, here and there marked by deep brown streaks where, in deeper spots, it sweeps over some smoother stone. On either side rise the walls of spray-damped solid rock, fringed with young maples and feathered birch, while high above the dark green pines and age- browned bridge stand clear-cut out against the sky. To facilitate the bringing of the sawlogs down the stream, ,'».nd prevent their being damaged as they used to be when making the passage of the Falls, the Government has constructed on one bank a 110 TSE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, ** timber-slide," and down this the logs may. be seen to run, and tumbling in quick succession, like so many porpoises, into the still waters of the river reach below. As to the geological action which has formed this cleft, it must, most probably, be classed with those caused by a " fault" or " fissure." THE aSEAT SOUTH FALLS. The abrading action of either frost or water has been very slight, there beiqg nothing here as in the Gorge of Niagara, capable of be- ing loosened or undermined and the adamantine rocks on either hand repel any great abrasion. TES NOBTEEBN LAKES OF OANADA. Ill The chasm is likea cleft, wide at the top and contracting towards the water's edge, at one place io about fifteen feet. On the right bank (the left hand side looking up) a vast, almost perpendicular smooth dark, iron-coloured rock is intersected by lighter coloured seams, apparently mixtures of quartz and rosy feldspathic crystals. The other bank is different, for here crags of what resembles grey sandstone appear in company with others, dazzling the eye by their micaceous glitter. At the foot of the fall may be noted the bank of pebbles consist- ing of water worn stones, from the size of an egg to that of a man's head, of varied colours and all worn smoth — some being actually polished. Some very remarkable round pockets or cups may also be noticed in the rocks caused by the perpetual rubbing of the imprisoned stones. The basins of the torrent show plain signs of the laborious friction of the water and the attendant drift, but beyond these and the little bowls before noticed, the centuries have left but little mark upon the barriers of the falls. From Bracebridge expeditions may be made with facility to Bays- ville and the Lake of Bays, returning by canoe down the south branch of the Muskoka River, or to the pretty chain of Lakes Vernon, Fairy, and Mary returning from Port Sydney down the North branch, but these will be dealt with further on. LAKE MUSKOKA AGAIN. From the mouth of the river, still keeping northward up the lake we pass close to the Birch and Wiison Islands. Along the high bluff banks may be seen the large encampments of summ^ir visitors, some from other parts of Canada,^ over which will fly the deep red Union Jack, and others from our neighbours of the United States spreading to the air the more variegated Stars and Stripes. 112 THE NORTEl^RN LAKES OF CANADA. Some of these will have gro ips of eight and ten large tents and reverberating reports from guns will salute the steamer as it passes by DO (6 < A 00 ■^ OQ O B£AUMARIS. This, the southermost of the summer resorts of Muskoka, is situ- ated on Tondem Island^ which, like its progenitor, Anglesea, is l» THi: NORTHERN LAKBS OP CANADA. Il3 separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, the Menai strait The high square tower of the hotel forms an imposing landmark from 1^1 all sides. Elevated well above the lake, and with broad continuous verandahs, the hotel is one of the most modem in this district From the steamer it cannot be seeu that in front of the west side is a well cared for tennis ground, or that the very freedom from surrounding obstruction affords unexampled island views extending all over the lake and giving a pleasant outlook from every window, while the shady veranaah and free access of the breeze give the coolness so much sought for. The fishing in the neighbourhood is remarkable, and many long strings of bass grace the hotel kitchen. Tondern Island has many pretty nooks and bays. The bathing houses are on a nice sand beach near the hotel, and affording per- fectly safe bathing for ladies and children. The circuit of the island can be made in a pleasant row of about three miles, passing through the Menai Stfaiis and around ho^me again. Home, Fairholnty and The Brothers Islands are close at hand. For rainy days, and these will sometimes come even in Muskoka, the bowling alleys and bil* Hard rooms in a separate house, .close by the hotel, will afford plea- sant recreation. Like all other Muskoka resorts, fresh air, fine fishing, bathing and boating, are the staple ingredients of the summer holi' day, and in opportunity for all these Beaumaris fully abounds. Mr. Prowse, the proprietor of the hotel, has a very large stock of excel- lent boats both for rowing and sailing {see advt) Point Kaye is the last point on the east shore "of Lake Muskoka before entering the Indian River, which forms the connection with Lake Rosseau. The village consists of only a few houses and a post- office. Immediately opposite Beaumaris, in sight from the hotel, and on the route which the steamer takes when crossing to the western side H II lU THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. of the lake, is a cluster of islands known as The Kettles^ with some- what of a maze or lab- yrinth in their many interweaving channels. Among these islands is found the very best bass fishing on the lakes, and splendid trolling for salmon trout. Good guides are advised, as the dis- tances are considerable and acquaintance with the points of the com- pass necessiiry for a prompt return to house or camp. 1 1 3 nflB^^a K^^jafcjji^jj^ ^^niH fc-j ■■ ■ " li. ■ Aaiit ^B JY^-^-'ii'-i.i'ilJH 4* '» THE KETTLES. A Specimen Muskoka Letter. Beaumaris, August loth, 1885. Dear Tom, — I wrote you last on my arrival at Toronto, and not caring to spend the balance of my holidays in a city, made up my mind to put in the last week in the far-famed Muskoka Lakes ; so went down to Mr. Barlow Cumber- land's office on Yonge street, and purchased a ticket for Beaumaris. Off next morning at 8 a.m. per Northern Ry. for Gravenhurst, where I arrived about 1.30. I found a very comfortable steamer waiting to take us up the lakes ; had dinner which was served on the boat in first-rate style, and, after about an hour and a half sail up the lake, found myself at Beaumaris. Here I found a first-rate hotel, with capital accommodation. Having secured my room I took a walk round the place to inspect my new quarters. There is a most beautiful view from the front of the house, and a balmy breeze from across the lake was most enjoyable. Some guests were playing tennis on the fine lawn in front, and I purpose putting in part of mv time the same way. I then looked up mv fishing tackle and got things in .4 ft THJB NOBTBEBN LkKES OF CANADA. 116 P ii h\ Older for the next day. Had supper about half past lix, then got a boat and took an hour's row to get myself in training. After, returned to the hotel, where I found the folks dancing. There is a large room here which is always ready for that - any like purpose. Next morning, having had lunch put up for me, I started off with a guide for a day's fishing, and commencing just below the hotel, fished along the shores of the island, casting in at all likely spots, and so went on till noon with a result of ten nice bass and three pickerel. We landed at a pretty point, made a fire, got some coffee, cooked sufficient fish for dinner, and I can tell you that is the way to enjoy them, right fresh out of the water in ,o the frying* pan ; I never tasted anything like it before. About half-past threes we started again, returning to the hotel for supper with a grand result of thirty I wo bass and seven pickerel — not so bad for one day. In the evening played billiards. Next morning, about 9 a.m., the steamer called here on her way to Bala, the outl(*t of these waters, so I took a trip in her. We first went up to Point Keye P.O., and left the mails, then across to Bala, where we arrived about 10.30. It is a most beautiful spot. There is a fine waterfall, also a large dam where all the logs go over into the river below. Arrived back at the hotel in time for dinner. This is a splendid trip ; the scenery all along the route is simply magnificent. I put in the afternoon playing lawn tennis and bathing ; in the evening there was lots of good music and singing. Next day, after my morning bath, I rowed over to Uuckle* berry Rock, a place about two miles distant, although only about a mile as the crow flies. It gets its name from the quantity of berries growing upon it, and cer- tainly there is any quantity of them. I climbed to the top of the rock and walked several hundred yards to a place called the Look-out, and here I got one of the finest views I think I ever saw. Nearly the whole of Muskoka Lake and part of Lake Rosseau lay before me, with the islands dotted here and there ; it was a perfect panorama. I returned to the hotel for dinner. In the afternoon I played awn tennis for a while and then went down to the bowling-alley for an hour ; in the evening had a good danc^. Next day I and some others took a ramble through the woods as far as Leonard Lake, a very pretty lake about two miles from here. On the way gathered any amount of wild raspberries, also got a lot of pitcher plants. I had never seen any before ; they are very pretty and peculiar. Put in the rest of the day playing billiards and bathing. Next day I spent fish- ing with pretty much the same result as before. In the evening there was a con- cert in the dancing room, which went off very well. Sunday, there was service in the morning and afternoon ; in the evening most of the guests assembled in the music room and had selections of sacred music, sang hymns, etc. On Monday, the proprietor having engaged a steamboat for the day, about fifty guests took a trip up to the head of Lakes Rosseau and Joseph, stopping about an hour at each place. This was truly a delightful sail ; we saw everything at the best advantage, and enjoyed the day thoroughly, getting back to the hotel about 7 p.m., when we 116 THE NORTHERN LAKEii OF CANADA. found our supper ready for us. 1 am spending this evening writing you, as I think it is the best opportunity I shall have, as t must get away to-morrow morn- ing. I only wish I could stay here for a month, as I feel 20 per cent, better since I came, and have gained about five pounds in weight. The air is so good and cool I always sleep well at nights, and as for appetite I am afraid to think of it ; I am sure the landlord made very little out of me. I hear several people, who have suffered for years from hay fever, say they have never been so well anywhere as here. In fact they have been quite free from it. Now I must close as I am sure you will be getting tired, and all I can say is that if you want to enjoy your- self and have a real good time, go to Muskoka and spend a week or two. Yours, Bob. BALA. i' The east shore of Lake Muskoka is well supplied with islands, but the west shore is very much more so. At present not very ex- tensive hotel advantages exist, but Mr. Thomas Currie has opened a private boarding house for canoeists and campists ; there is no better region than on this west coast of the lake. Most of the islands have '^ been taken up by Torontonians and on many of them houses i{ave been erected. No doubt, when steamboat facilities increase, this region will become as well known as those lying on the more direct routes. Ba/a is a regular fishing centre ; close by are many little lakes among which may be named Bu//, Echo, Clear, Long, Black and Hardy's, but the crowning feature is the Muskosh Rivvr, which, beginning at this point, carries away the waters of the whole of the vast inland chain of lakes. MUSKOSH AND MOON RIVERS. After the stop-log dams erected by the Government for the control of the water of the lake, the stream narrows to a width of about 40 ^^ yards, then passing swiftly along for a short distance, gathering, as it were, it5 energies for the grand leap it now takes over a rocky ledge about twenty-three feet in height. Immediately below the Falls the river widens again, forming powerful eddies, particularly at high water. TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 117 Strangers require to exercise extra precaution in the management of their boats or canoes below the portage until the di: turbed waters are safely passed, which is only the work of a few minutes. Descending the river, amid beautiful scenery, are fine bass and pickerel fishing for a distance of about four miles. The channel here divides itself into two streams, the one called the Muskosh^ the other the Moon River^ and both discharging their waters into the Georgian Bay through mouths many miles distant from eacii other. Numerous falls and rapids interrupt navigation on both streams and no strangers should venture without experienced guides. At the above mentioned dividing point there is really splendid maskinonge fishing ; the fish are large and of the finest quality. Canoes can be taken down the Moon River to Georgian Bay and return made from there by the Crane and Blackstone Lake chains to Lake Joseph or Port Cockburn. (Jiee the route map.) V Walker's Point ard Tot ranee are hamlets and post offices on the west shore of Lake .vluskoka, and in the neighbourhood of the Mus- kosh River. THE INDIAN RIVER. Having sailed up Lake Muskoka, we approach the Northern and upper end of the lake, and, threading our way through the Sevefi Sisters Islands — a cluster not far from Beaumaris — we then pass Jdlewtld, One Tree, and Horseshoe Islands. On the right hand is seen Fairmount. Fairmount is situated one and a quarter miles from Point Kaye, on a pretty bay with a southern aspect, just at the entry of the Indian River. A few families can be accommodated by Mr. Butter, and three cottages can be rented furnished. The little Angli y>\ can Church of the Holy Cross nestles against the woods in the east corner of the bay ; service every Sunday. A sandy beach, sloping gradually down, furnishes perfectly safe bathing for children. We now enter the converging channel of the Indian Rizer. The banks rise high on either side, and the thickly wooded slopes throw 118 THE NORTBBBN LAKJS8 OF CANADA. dark shadows at the rapid turns, widening out almost into a little lake — some good farms are to be seen upon the shore — and then narrowing up again after a sudden turn, we pass through a channel i|^ marked out with fir trees for buoys, and reach the prettiest part / the river. At four miles from Lake Muskoka is PORT CARLING. This, of all the villages on the lakes, is the most important — being the most central. Being the converging point for all the steamers running to and fro on the three lakes, access to all parts can most convenieritly be obtained from this centre, and frequent communi- cations be kept up with all. The Stratton House^ most excellently kept by Mr. John Fraser, is very commodious, and has an established reputation. Mr. Vanderbergh's comfortable hostelrie is favourably situated on the garden bank, and has a dock all to itself — {see adver- , b tisement). Boats and guides to all the fishing and sporting points obtained. There are also very good supply stores, kept by Mr. Wallis and Mr. Hanna — (see advertisement)^-2xA three churches. On Sundays, row-boats will be noticed coming from all points, bear- ing the congregations to divine service Steam launches for visiting ^ the lakes can be hired from Mr. Vanderbergh. At Port Carling the steamers pass through the locks which connect Lake Muskoka and Lake Rosseau, the latter being four feet the higher level. Transfer is made at the locks from the Lake Muskoka steamer to the side-service steamers running up the different lakes ; and tourists are recommended to look closely after their baggage themselves, for, however good any system of checking may be, errors will sometimes occur ; and it is little satisfaction either to see your trunk going away on the deck of another steamer, or yourself arriving at your destination to find that your baggage and all your comforts have been left behind. At thig transfer point, therefore, have an eye to your baggage yourself, •m K^ » fi LAKE MUSKOKV DRAWN FOR THE NORTHERN LAKES of CANADA* Scale 2^2 Miles =nnch. .~1 ■-■■•'^;i'--' k • \A< W* ,'.' V I saving behind us excellent InUrlaketi one of th turn brin next lake Where the Lake to the pi usually fi some tol unlike a normal tem — th alone th the gen< shape ir tions, ai so that instead somewl such pi compoi ock, •< stantly the sig Lak distanc suremt I a ?cal< THE NORTHERN LAKEls OF CANADA 119 I saving the village, perched on its picturesque and rugged rocks behind us, we enter a beautiful wooded basin, in which there is most excellent fishing, next passing a point which has been laid out for Interlaken Park — a splendid grove for camping and picnicking, and one of the few cas.es in Muskoka of happy nomenclature. Another turn brings us to the end of the river, and the southern end of the next lake. LAKE ROSSEAU. Where the lakes are of such exceedingly irregular form as are all the Lakes of Muskoka, lengths and breadths vary greatly, according to the place from which the measurements are taken. The tourist is usually familiar with lakes which, formed in hollows and basins, have some tolerable regularity of shape ; but these Lakes of Muskoka are unlike any others, bein;]; formed, not by any regular depressions of normal strata, but beuig the upheaval of the old Laurentian sys- tem — the oldest geological formation on the continent — which here alone thrusts its head up through the super-imposed masses. Hence the general elevation of the district, and the remarkable changes of shape in the coast lines. Jutting points, deep bays, sudden elonga- tions, and sharp changes of direction, follow quick upon one another, so that the course of the steamer is undergoing constant alteration, instead of proceeding in one general direction following along a somewhat similar shore. It is this constant change which affords such pleasure to the eye on the Lakes of Muskoka ; and though the component parts of the landscape shall be of the same — water, and •)ck, and tree — yet the ever-changing play of light and form con- stantly opens out new combinations in colour and beauty of which the sight never wearies nor the interest grows dull. Lake Rosseau is fourteen miles long in its extremest points. For distances between the several places on this and other lakes, mea- surements can be made on the maps, which are accurately drawn to a ?cale of 2^ miles to the inch. After leaving the Indian River, 120 THE NORTHMEN LAKES OF CANADA, the steamer for Lake Joseph diverges to the left, that for Lake Sosseau to the right ; and we will first follow up the eastern shore of the lake. Arthurlie House, about two miles from Port Carling, is ensconced in Arthurlie Bay, whose entrance is guarded by a group of pretty islands. There is excellent bass fishing in Silver Lake, just bc^^'^^d the house. ▲ GLIMPSE ALONG THE COAST. Brackenrig P. O. lies at the foot of a deep bay. From here a short portage, one-quarter of a mile, can be made to Brandy Lake, and thence by canoe down Brandy River to Lake Muskoka, near Point Kaye and Beaumaris. Leaving Baker^s, Bohemia, Vacuna, and Silver Islands, and others forming the group at the south pomt of the islsnd. On a fine bay on 4 ■:| 4 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 121 the west side of the island is Cloverport — a new and attractive sum- mer house. We now coast up the east shore of B^^ or Todin's Island itself, . with high rocks, and, in many places, woods to the water's edge. Windermete is pleasantly situated on a small bay, four miles from Port Carling and ten miles from Rosseau. The " Windemere House" kept by Mr. Thos. Aitkens, has large accommodation, and increasing business testifies the appreciation of the past endeavours of the proprietor, who, like almost all the other lake-shore hotel- keepers on the lakes, is also the post master and express agent Hotel-keepers in Muskoka are not only expected to be '* Poo-Bahs in offices, but also in information as to all kinds of bait and fish, and where and how to get them. There are plenty of boats kept by the hotel and Mr. J. R. Boyd, and a good bathing place. " The Win- dermere Mechanics' Institute " has a capital reading room, with a very fair library. A specialty of the neighbourhood is the " Winder- mere Club," a company which has erected a number of pleasant lake-side cottages which can be rented or purchased, as not a few have been, by families who prefer to " keep house." The resident carpenter, Mr. Clinyboyle, makes repairs and looks after the cottages during the winter months. A very good market held weekly in the ^'' summer months, by the farmers in the neighbourhood, insures a cheap and constant supply of fresh provisions. Ministers of Methodist and Presbyterian churches resides in the village. Pleasant expeditions can be made from Windemere by row boat passing Florence Island, the residence of the celebrated actor " Billy Florence," whose Colonel Sellers has become a prover- bial type of character, thence to the head of Portage ^o;*, where there is a capital sandy beach. On going northwards past Norway Island to Dee Mouth with its saw mill at the outlet of Dee River. The mouth of the river is wide and a canoe excursion can be made up it to the Three-Mile Lake, a distance of about two miles with three portages, each of about one hundred yards. It is a pretty woodland walk Qf two |mile8 to ;4 122 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Dee Bank from where canoeists can take water on the quaint-shaped THREE-MILE-LAKE. It may be interesting to note that of the township which contains this lake there is one acre Ci" water to every three of land. There is excellent pickerel fishing in the lake, and its herrings, to be found in shoals near the rocks and banks later on in the fall, are quite famous. ON THE SHORES OF LAKE ROS8BAU. There is no regular hotel, but the shores are Iwell settled with thrifty farmers who will welcome visitors. The scenery |is much varied and at one point there is a most remarkable echo. £i/a Is- r V V THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CAIiADA. 123 /andy near the centre, contains the summer residence of Mr. C. Mc- Kenzic, of Toronto. It is expected a small cleamer will shortly be placed on this lake, but it is a very pretty day's excursion from JDee Banky where is a post office and a capital general store, along the full length of the lake, a distance of eight miles, to Raymonds Bay. From here — if the voyagers desire to still further penetrate into the country— canoes can be taken by waggon, making a short cut across the country of about six miles, to join the railway at Uiterson^ and from there to Huntsville, and so take water again on the Vernon Mary chain. Renewing our trip up Lake Muskoka, and having passed the east side of Tobin's Island, a peninsula just out from the west shore, on which '\& JuddhaveUy with small dock and post office. The east shore continues to show sharp promontories and deep bays, the largest, Skeleton Bay^ about two miles long, and a celebrat- ed fishing point. The entrance is obscured by several islands ; at the head is the foot- water of Skeleton River ^ on which ^are the Minnehaha Falls, well worthy a visit, not so much for their magnitude as for their prettiness. Four miles inland is Skeleton Lake, another of the larger inland L. is, attractive to venturesorat canoeists for its excel- lent fishing, untrodden islands, many with high cliffs projecting over the water so that boats can be rowed underneath, and its remoteness from the generally travelled routes. The waters are clear like those of Lake Joseph. Considerable portaging has to be done past the rapids and the higher falls to reach its waters, but they can also be con. veniently got at in the opposite direction from Utterson. Rosseau Falls is mainly com^^osed cf a saw mill and accompanying houses situate at the mouth of the river. From this on, the banks on the east rhore grow in height, and bluff rocks, with deep water at their foot, line the water's edge. At 14 miles from Port Carling we reach thj head of the lake. PORT ROSSEAU. This village is a place of much importance as it occupies the head of navigation in this direction, and is the starting point for colonic ^tion roads leading to Parry Sound and Nippissing and the many 124 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. settlements situated along their lengths. Post and telegraph offices keep up communication with the southern world, and there are some good stores, particularly for hardware and fishing tackle. Fratfs Hotel, which stood on a well elevated situation, but was destroyed by fire one autumn, used to monopolize a large portion of ^- ON THE SHADOW RIVER. the tourist business, and so great was the satisfaction of visitors with the amusements and the beauty of the environs of this part of the ake, that attention was almost wholly directed to it, and it was not until the withdrawal of the hotel accommodation having obliged visitors to seek other points of sojourn, that the world woke up to the knowledge that there were many other beautiful spots on the shores TBE NORTHkRN LAKES OF CANADA, 125 of the lakes, and that as er ch had its own peculiar attractions and advantages, it was best to see them all. The waters about Rosseau are well stocked witn tish, and abundant and pleasant boating can be enjoyed. The Monteith House is well situated near the steamboat wharf, and among the amusements of the village is a roller skating rink. The Shadow River, one of the most wonderful natural curiosi- ties of the Muskoka district, empties its waters into the bay on the shores of which Port Rosseau stands. Its course can be explored inland by boats for about five miles, the stream varying throughout from twenty to sixty feet in width. Entering the mouth of the river, about the time of the fast declining rays of the afternoon sun, and following the erratic curves, all sight of the lake is soon lost. In front and behind, the river winds like a silver streak, hemmed in on either hand by forest trees, and losing itself in the distant curves. Tall elms and ranks of tapering pines line the banks, and below them the sedgy shores, heavy with foliated ferns and wreaths of moss, overhang the edge. The surface is as motionless as glass and everything is duplicated in marvellous detail, each leaf and branc' having its reflected counterpart even more distinct than it appears itself. " The fair trees look over, side by side, And see themselves below." In the deep silence which pervades the place and affects the on- looker as he gazes at the magic scene, a wonderful illusion creeps over his absorbed senses. Gradually the river's surface fades away, double lines of forest trees array the shores, their stems divided in the centre, the one part pointing upward to the sky, the other reach- ing downward until in fairy vision the vacancy of spaceless depth is bounded far away beneath by mountains of snowy clouds in setting of azure blue. The boat appears suspended in mid-air, half-way be- tween two zenith heavens, and at every stroke of the dripping oar would seem as though upon the verge of being plunged into a bottom- less abyss. 12« THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Peering silently over the side, eternity lies spread before the gaze, at £.11 sense of earthliness is lost, while the eye searches the passing glimpses of what looks to be another world A merry laugh or the swoop of the king-fisher, as he seeks his finny prey, will recall the dreamer to his senses, but leave a profound impression of a strange and eyrie sensation that elfs and fairies may have been about " For there are haunts in this fair land, Ah ! who may dream or tell Of all the shaded loveliness That hides by grot and dell." On a small tributary of the Shadow River, the Bridal Veil Falls by delicate feathery cascade, makes silver music in its forest grove, and a visit perchance may give some hesitating anxious swain an opportunity of freeing from his halting tongue the words which cleave so closely to his heart Half a mile from the village and on a projecting point, giving long vistas up and down the lake, is the new hotel, MAPLEHURST. The high gabled roof and broad eaves projecting like those of some Swiss chalet, are prominent objects long before the steamer reaches the little dock. f Harry Ditchburn's fleet of boats and canoes clustered around the landing place invite to frequent water trips, and the cool shades of the surrounding grove of evergreen and silver birch, or lounges on the spacious verandah, 200 feet in length, may tempt to more lazy methods of passing over the hours of the happy summer days. A ferry to the dock in the village keeps up constant communication, and mails and telegraphs are delivered at the Hotel {see adv.). It is a very pretty walk of i ^ miles through the forest, from Kosseau to Ashdown^ the junction of the main roads ; or a drive of 10 miles passing a succession of pretty little lakes, lands the traveller at Port Cockburn, at the head of Laike Joseph. Carriages can be THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 127 engaged in the village. A stage runs regularly 23 miles to Parry Sound. At many of the rocky points, from one to six miles down the main Lake Rosseau, there is good fiishing for Bass, Pickerel and Salmon Trout THE BRIDAL VEIL FALLS. Morgan's Bay, a large estuary opening from the main lake a little south from MapUhurst, is studded with many islands and several deep-recessed bays. In the north bay a portage of ^ mile enters Sucker Lake^ and in the south bay a zoo yards portage leads to Bass 128 • THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, Lake. Both of these are well stocked. There are also a whole series of small lakes to the ^orth beginning with Turtle Lake, the head waters of the Shadow iliver, reached best by a drive of six miles from Rosseau. Connected with this by short portages are several other lakes where sport is certain. Good speckled trout fishing can be enjoyed in White Oak Creek and its tributaries, and in several of the lakes connected with it, easily reached by roa'd five miles from Rosseau. Blackstone Lake is reached by daily stage to Pender's Corners, and then a drive of four miles down the side road. It is better not to attempt these more distant excursions without experi- enced guides. There are many other small lakes containing good fish, but not so accessible as those named. These can be reached by the aid of Indians and birch bark canoes. Indians can be hired through Ditchbu'-n Bros, at about $2 per day including use of canoe. The active canoeist, who is making the tour of the lakes, can, instead of returning down the main Lake Rosseau, make a very interesting short cut to Lake Joseph, At the west side of Morgan's Bay there is a much frequented portage of ^ mile to Little Lake Joseph. This makes a varied and novel expedition for parties with light canoes and camping equipment, and saves the necessity of doubling any portion of their trip. • Returning to the foot of the lake we will join the steamer for Lake ■Joseph, which, on leaving the Indian River, turns to the left, heading for Fort Sandfield, distant on the direct route six miles from Port Carling, although this is generally prolonged by many calls at the intermediate islands. Yeiietia. This southern portion of Lake Rosseau is fairly gemmed with islets, and as they were early selected for their beauty and admirable situa- tion, more island population has been accumulated in this part than in any other. On almost every island can be seen some pretty home, each varied by the tastes or fancies of the owner. Home-made architecture and amateur carpentering have put some together out fHE NORTHERN LA^ES OF CANADA, 120 of the materials to be found on the spot ; others have called in more specially instructed aid, but none are at all pretentious. Comfort rather than display, simplicity and make-the-best-of-it seem to be the ruling influences among the " Muskokans." They are clannish in their upholding of the special beauties of the vicinity in which they are settled, but national in united assertion that there is no place like Muskoka. Hospitable they certainly are, and to overflowing, for when the steamer touches at their islands, and one sees the number of people and babies that run down to the dock, and the number of heads that pop out of the windows of the house itself, one wonders where they all put up, and whether some, like the Indians, wrap themselves in blankets and sleep beneath the sprea<^ing trees. But another turn of the wheel and the white ridge of a lent or the clus- tering poles of a wigwam, tell where the boys — and what boys the Muskoka boys are — have overflowed to make room for the welcome guests. This lower part of Lake Rosseau may well be called " Veneiia" for a boat is as necessary to a man as a pair of legs, and not in Venice itself are boats more used or needed. Whether it be to make a call on a neighbour, to bring the bread from the baker, or fuel for the fire, or fish for the pot, a boat is always put in requisition, so that the Muskokans might almost'be considered an amphibious race« They ail row, from the smallest baby upwards, and La Belle Carta- dienne, who in winter has been seen in picturesque toboggan suit, with bright rosed cheeks, flushed by the keen vigour oi her native air, will here be met again with those same cheeks bronzed to a ruddy brown and handling the oars of her boat with all the grace and deftness of an adept. No wonder Canada's oarsmen lead the world ! Vive la Canadienne I On the south point of Tobin's Island is the new hotel, Oaklands^ which, being just opposite to all the many islands of Venetian is sure to afford a pleasurable summer outing. Femdale is an excellent hotel, kept by Mr. Penson, and on a pretty bay, into which the steamer turns. The summer-houses on I \ 130 THE NORTHERh LAKES OF CANADA. U THE NORTHERN LAKES CF CANADA, 131 the high cliffs have before them one of the most beautiful views of the lakes, and the groves of oak and maple, the virgin forest of hard- wood trees in the rear, give opportunity for pleasant walks. The steamer then threads her way through the island homes of " Venetia." To the right is Si. Leonardos Isle and the " Parson's Group," where the relatives of .nro reverend gentlemen of Toronto have established themselves, and clerical friends are right royally welcomed. On the left are in succession Edith, JuiirvierVj Sum mersidg^Gou/dings, then Oak and Fiora, the pretty home of Dr. Hall, one of the earliest and most enthusiastic of the Muskokans. Still farther away, on the right, Cedar Island^ the property of Mr. C. S. Warren ; then Mazengah^ the home of the D wights and Blatchfords, and Fairylands^ the Lilly homestead. Lastly we turn sharply round Olive Island, where so deep is the water and sheer the rock that the steamer runs alongside without need of any dock. Here the Baldwins early found a happy resting place, and by practice, learned how to fell trees so that they should not fall, as did an early one they cut, squash down upon their newly erected house to its complete destruction. A mute protest, perchance, from the forest king against the innovations made into his realm. Passing the lofty ' jadland of Eagle's Nestj the lake narrows up and we are soon in » v of Port Sandfield. The steamer runs to and fro, calling at the different islands and also crosses to the northerly side of the lake. At about two miles is Cleveland's ; a summer boarding house is kept here, by Mr. Minnett, with excellent accommodation. Further down the shore, to the east, Mrs. Lawson takes boarders. Mr. Wood's boarding house at Eair- Vieiv-Farm is about a mile to the west, with a nice sand beach and dock, at which ihe steamers land. All these localities are in the vicinity of good fishing, and being a little out of the regular route, are perhaps more quiet and retired, and favourable arrangements can be made for short visits or lengthened stay. Gregory is just at the entrance of the Joseph River, has a post- office, and some of the residents in the neighbourhood will accommo- date summer visitors. 132 TSM NOHTHERN LAKES OP CAITADA. PORT SANDFIELD. At one time a narrow spit, or bar, of sand, here separated Lake Rosseau from Lake Joseph, but in the interests of continuous steam- boat navigation a canal was dug through it by the Ontario Govern- ment, and the new village which sprung up was named after the eagle's nbst, lake rosseau. then Premier — the Hon. Sand field Macdonald — as the point where the junction was made between Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau had been named after the then Commissioner of Crown Lands, the Hon. John Carling. Originally Lake Joseph was i ^ feet the higher, u II iv ik' THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 188 but now both lakes are of the same level. A lofty bridge, spanning the canal, keeps up the communication by road with Port Carling. Hi o n > O ■»1 H O On the top, or saddle, of the promontory, and with views extend ing east and west over both the lakes, is Prospect Bouse, kept by the characteristic Enoch Cox. So great is the desire to stay at this 134 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. favoured spot that although each year its capacities have been enlarged, until now there are rooms for 120 visitors, yet the cry is "still they come." Pleasant verandahs and shady groves covering the tops of rocky points, fifty and sixty feet above the level of ihe water, form pleasant lounging places. Bathing can be enjoyed from the rocks in an adjacent bay, or from the bathing-houses, which are situated on a pleasant sandy beach. Row-boats can be hired from Mr. ^ 5x by the day or week at low rates, and the steam yacht, built, owned, and captained by Mr. John Rogers — the " hydrographer of the lakes " — leaves the hotel every morning for the points of interest in the neigh- bourhood, which enables visitors to take delightful excursions out of the regula*" track of the mail steamers. Special charters can be made on very reasonable terms. The belfry of the Anglican church will be seen near the hotel ; service is held regularly every Sunday. There are several cottages, which may be rented, and summer boarding-houses, in the vicinity — among them Rockhurst^ just on the opposite side of the bay, kept by Mr. G. C. Hazelwood, well situated and supplied with boats. There is a pretty walk through the woods, I y^ miles, to Port Carling. LAKE JOSEPH. This, the third of the series of the Lakes of Muskoka, was for a long time a mare incognitum except to the venturesome spirits, who, reeling not the labour, rowed themselves up its length of fourteen :^ miles, when the steamer used to be stopped by the natural barrier at Port Sandfield. It will be noted that the waters of all the other lakes and rivers of Muskoka are, although translucent and c^ear, yet of a dark or tawny hue, while, strangely enough, those of Lake Joseph are a clear white. Its isUnds, too, rise perhaps more abruptly, and to higher elevations, and more rugged cliffs line its shores, than do those of the other lakes. Backed by these peculiarities, the inhabitants of the Canton of Lake Joseph claim for it a beauty surpassing that of all the others. This at least may be granted, that it has characteristics, such as those mentioned, unique and peculiar to itself; but so have i ^ t THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 186 all the lakes, and this is one of the inexhaustible charms of the Lakes of Muskoka district. Very nice jaunts, with excellent fishing, can be enjoyed from Port* Sandfield. A row up Lake Joseph of three miles to Hemlock Point* and the lines having been cast in around the group of fish-named islands oflf the point, or on a row down Avon and Cumberland Bays will surely be rewarded by a good catch. Bass Lake is best reached by Rogers' steam yacht to Foot's Bay, a distance of about seven miles ; from here a portage of a quarter ot LAKE JOSEPH. a mile brings to the lake. Mr. T. Hamill, whose house is near by, keeps boats upon the lake, and is recommend* ;d for supplying guides. The lake is carefully preserved, and well stocked with fish. A very pretty round trip can be made by towing the row-boats behind the yacht up Lake Joseph, and past Fisher^ Foster^ and Cani^ Islands, to the upper end of the /oseph River, near by the prettily situated CraigitLea. From here the boats can be rowed down the river through channels too narrow and shallow for even the little steamer. A beautiful succession of changes of direction and sur prises follows, for a distance of three miles, to the exit into Lake Rosseau, near Gregory's. Two miles further, and the party is home again at Prospect House. The whole distance round can be rowed 136 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, t by a vigorous oarsman in about five hours, or the journey can — as is most pleasant — be broken for the night at CRAIGIE-LEA. Before the cutting of the Port Sandfield Canal, this Joseph River was the only means of water communication between the lakes, and, being very tortuous, was available only for small boats. NestlM in behind the Ponemah Group of islands, and on a pretty projecting point of land, Mr. John Walls has placed his new hotel — (see adver- tisement). The situation is most unique for quiet and retirement ; • the surround- ing shores are all as Nature first, in simple beauty, deco- rated them with her un- erring hand ; and sheltered passages wind between the islands in con- stantly chang- ing forms. Just in front is the particu- larly beautiful Cliff Island. Green slopes, looking in the distance as though of softest, smoothest turf, rise from the water's edge to the rounded top, about two hundred feet in height. Studded at interval- over these are regularly shaped groups of evergreens— the rich-tonea Norway and the dwarf Northern pine. No landscape gardener ever posed his groups with more eflfective result ; nor could he, with all ' *'y'«'i^-r ?^s^ j^ AROUND CLIFF ISLAND. f f 't ! t I 'li THE NOETHEBN LAKES OF CANADA. 137 his art, attain to such unstudied loveliness as here exists. Just to the right of the hotel is the entrance to Liiiie Lake Joseph, sometimes fondly termed LiitU Joe. No settlers have yet occupied its untrodden shores, and there is splendid fishing in its waters. At the head of the lake — seven miles from Craigie-Lea — is the landing for the half- mile /^r/a^^ to Morgan's Bay, and thence three miles by water to Maplehurst and Rosseau Resuming the direct route up the centre of Lake Joseph, from Port Sandfield the steamer calls first at Redwood, the admirably situated summer home of the Ardaghs. Leaving Foot's Bay on the left, we thread our way through the Ponemah Group, comprising the largest islands in the lake. On the shores of " Chief Island " is the home- stead of Herbert Mason, Esq. ; and on " Governors Island," a beau- tiful little islet commanding a lovely view over the length of the op?n lake, is the summer residence of the Hon. John Beverley Robinson, the Lieutenant-Governor jof Ontario. The shores stretch wider apart, and then comes another series called the Yo-ho-cu-ca-ba Group, A thoroughly Indian intonation would appear to attach to this name, with its constantly repeated vowel sounds, and one wonders as to what may be its native meaning. It is a revelation to be told that it was framed from the first syllables of the names of the first occu- pants of the largest island. Thus :— Yo Professor Young, Ho , . . . • . . W. H. Howland. Cu Montgomery Cuinining. Ca . . . . . . Professor Campbell. Ba James Bain. This group are as largely populated as any parts of the lakes ; and /. the Sunday services, held in a natural amphitheatre on "Yoho," as the principal island is lovingly called, have acquired a provincial celebrity f:* 'in the standing of the preachers who have officiated at them, under the canopy of the forest trees. Mr. McNi.arrich*8 completely-developed island, where the Marquis of Lansdowne, Governor-General of Canada, sojourned in 1885, is I 138 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. passed on the left ; then McLellan^s and Wahneshing^ and the lofty Equity Crest. After the beautifully-shaped Round Island, we enter the last bay, and come into view of the end of the trip in this direc- tion. PORT COCKBURN. This is the head of navigation of Lake Joseph. Upon a high cliff, and surrounded by a beautiful grove of second growth oak and maples, so that only the gables can be seen, is the Summit House, well kept by Hamilton Fraser, now the largest house in the district. Between the trees and on the sides of the rocks \ i i THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 180 where convenient nooks give opportunity, are swinging hammocks and rustic seats, and from the ample height and pleasant shade, a lovely view overlooking the island-studded lake can be most fully grasped and thoroughly enjoyed. The steamer lands at the foot of the stairways leading up to the hotel. Near by is seen the Island Fark, where a grove has been set out with winding paths and a bridge built to connect the island with the main land. On the other side of the hotel is a splendid bathing house and sheer rocks from which the bolder ones can spring into fifty feet of water. The ubiquitous Ditchbum Bros, here again appear with a full line of excellent row boats, from small ones for those with whom " two is company and three is none " to the large family ark wherein the good-natured Father, having stowed his substantial partner together with all their merry flock of chattering youngsters, can swelter at the unaccustomed oar in full enjoyment of his summer holiday of rest. About fifteen minutes* row from the hotel are the celebrated " Echo Rocks " where in the mysterious moonlight hours weird repetitions may be evoked. " Hark ! how the gentle echo from her cell, Talks through the cliffs and murmuring o'er the stream Repeats the accents ** we-shall-; irt-no-more." — Akenside, It is a pretty trip also to " Hawk's nest," and to the little bay and portage to Byers Lake. Post and telegraph offices in the hotel and a large room for con- certs and dancing ensure plenty of amusement for the summer evenings. Port Cockburn is the centre of a great many fishing resorts to which access can from it most conveniently be obtained. Guides and canoes can be arranged for with Ditchbum and bait provided Lake Joseph abounds with black bass, pickerel and large salmon trout obtained by deep trolling. Within a radius of six miles from the Summit House, there are some forty little lakes, some reached by driving and many by walks 140 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. through the " bush," and in the tributary streams brook trout are often canght weighing i^ pounds. The Seguin River Chain begins a few miles back from here and comprises a complete chain of lakes and river to Parry Sound on the Georgian Bay. White Fish, Clear, Turtle, Star and Isabella are the principal ones, and in all black bass and trout abound. Blackstone and Crane lakes, which are five miles oflf (see the route map to Moon River), may best be described by taking the statement of Battelle in the Toledo " Post'' : " The shores of Crane and Blackstone Lakes are capital specimens of the primitive wilderness, and long may they so continue. The few who have visited their teeming v/aters have mostly been genuine fishermen who are happiest when far-away from conventionalities and habitations. But one clearing broke the majestic sweep of the grand old forests, within the sheltered bays the loons laughed undisturbed, and the wild birds splashed in the marshy edges or upon the sandy shores with none to molest or make them afraid. " We were out for maskinonge, and took no account of either black bass or pickerel. It seems strange to talk of shaking off black bass and making disrespectful remarks about these gamy gentry when they insisted in taking the hook, but they were so plenty as to be really troublesome. "When an angler goes forth to catch the maskinonge it is necessary to be ^careful lest the maskinonge should catch him. The native method of taking the maskinonge in the primeval waters of Canada is by a small clothes line, hauled in by main strength when the fish bites, but we proposed to troll, as should an angler, with the rod. Ours were split bamboo rods 9J feet long, quadruplex reel, and braided linen line, two feet of medium sized copper wire, a No. 4 spoon with double hooks, and finally a good gaff. " Our guide, as we started over to Crane Lake the first morning, in- dulged in sundry smiles and remarked that we should break our rods, so that, although placid in outward mien, I felt inwardly a little ner- vous, but I didn't mean to back down until compelled. THE NORTHMEN LA^ES OF CANADA. 141 " Swinging around a little point, with some twenty yards of line astern, before fishing a great while I felt a sudden movement at the spoon that was more like a crunch than a bite. It took only a second to give the rod a turn that fixed the hooks and another sec- ond to discover that I had hung something. Scarcely had I tighten- ed the line when the fish started:. I do not know that I wanted to stop him, but I felt the line slip rapidly from the reel as though at- tached to a submarine torpedo. The first run was a long one, but the line was longer, and the fish stopped before the reel was bare. This was my opportunity and I had the boatman swing his craft across the course, and reeling in the slack line, I turned his head towards the deeper water. Forty-five minutes of as pretty a fight as one could wish to see left my new acquaintance alongside the boat, and before he recovered his surprise the gaff was in his gills and the boatman lifted him on board. ** He weighed fourteen pounds on the steelyards and was my heaviest fish. There were other encounters of a similar character, but none quite so protracted ; but I wouldn't be afraid of the largest veteran in the lake, and all fishermen, who aim for sport, will assured- ly troll with the rod. Our time was limited, far too short, and in a word, a day and a half on Crane Lake gave us, without counting bass, ten maskinonge whose weight aggregated no pounds, (on the scales) an average weight of ii pounds per fish." THE MOON RIVER. The lower reaches of these famed waters, where they enter the Georgian Bay, can conveniently be attained by the route of these lakes as shown on the detailed map, or, having descended the river by canoe from Lake Muskoka at Ba/a (the easier mode), return can be made by them to Lake Joseph, at Port Cockbum. The fishing scores in the Moon River, particularly maskinonge, are of the heaviest, and some giants have been hooked. This expedition should not be attempted without good guides and ample camping equipment and supplies. 142 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, The New Railway. Gtavenhurst to Lake Nipissing, Having followed the shores of the group of the Big Trio and traced their waters to the outfall by the Muskosh and Moon Rivers^ we will strike further inland to the newer districts which are now opened out for convenient access by the new extension of the railway through their midst. Starting afresh from Gravmhurst (page loi), the rail- way strikes inland along the shores of Gull Lake, and after crossing the south branch of the Muskoka River, reaches Bracebridge (lo^ miles). (The mileages here and afterwards mentioned are mileages from Gravenhurst) Here the iron bridge spans the stream above the very midst of the Falls — a strange situation \ but the defiles through which railways in this district may be constructed are exacting, and their behests must be obeyed, however, unusual the forced selections. Still keeping in the valley alongside the river at about two miles beyond Bracebridge, a very pretty view is obtained, on the right of EUiotfs Fads. Utterson (24 miles) — Connection can be made from here by good waggon road to Skeleton Lake ox else to Three Mile Lake, and by eitiier route convenient voyage made by their waters to those of Lake Ros- seau, not far from Windermere. Two and a half miles to the east by road is Port Sydney y at the southern end of Mary Lake, to which we 'will make a visit farther on. After a passing glimpse at Little Round Lake, the train arrives at Huntsville (35 miles). This is an important tourist point, as here connection is made with a new chain of lakes, whose waters may be followed, either west to their source, or east and south until they are drained by the Muskoka River. The village is progressing, and will, no doubt, soon have its full share of the increase business which the railway now brings to its doors. Jacob's Hotel, Gilchrist's and Birtch's Hotels, are mentioned here. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 148 ^ The Muskoka River Chain. WESTWARD TO THE HEADWATERS. Alongside the railway station will be found the steamboat dock, at which can be taken, for the trip up the lakes, the steamer JVor/Aern, Captain Denton. Should our voyageurs, however, have so prepared themselves, and intend to start off on one of the many canoeing trips which radiate from here, their traps and camping equipment will be quickly packed away, and soon * ' Their bark is on the sea. " After about three miles of open river navigation. Lake Vernon is entered. On the right bank will be seen where the waters of the Upper North Branch enter the lake. Hood^s Island is passed on the left, and, the lake widening out again, the village of Ravenscliff is called at Here enters the stream which brings down the v/aters of Loon and ILong Lakes. At 9 miles the lake ceases ; and we arrive at the head of steamboat navigation in this direction. HOODSTOWN. The town is situated at the outlet of the upper waters, and a splendid water-power has been formed, which, no doubt, some day will turn some busy wheels, if its owner will only allow it to be used. There is a waterfall of about 40 feet in height over the mill-dam. The Albion Hotel, kept by J. G. Henderson, and the McCallum Houss are spoken of as good hostelries. There are good roads in the neigh- bourhood, and a large adjacent population. Near by, and rising abruptly above the plain, is Mount Ararat. The bluflf is 500 feet above the highest parts of the land ; its top is flat, and if the Ark did not stop here it may at least have touched. From the summit the wood-clad landscape may be seen, waving for miles around, in billows of massy green fading into distant blue^ 144 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, and upon its front, set like so many precious gems, are to be counted the surfaces of fifteen little lakes, reflecting in their rippling waters the bright rays of the summer sun. Having examined the neighbourhood, the trip to the head water", of the chain is recommenced. It is a short portage through the town from Lake Vernon to the foot water of Fox Lake, so called from the shape of its shores taking a figure very much the outline of a fox. It is about three miles to the narrows, between the body and the tail. At the end of^the lake the ^«^^ ^/z/^ is entered. The river runs smooth and deep, between 30 and 40 feet wide. The banks are steep and high, showing signs of excellent soil, and there are many' picturesque turns in the route of five miles. There is one short rapid which going up must be passed by a portage of ?oo yards, but com- ing down can be run with safety. Next is entered Buck Lake, six miles long and of narrow but varying width. On its shores is Jifra- combe with saw and grist mills, and the centre of an English colony of high county standing and much cultivation. The pretty Anglican church is well maintained, and as far as can be, brings back fond memories of services in the ivy-clad fanes of the fatherland. At the head of the lake a small stream is entered, and after one mile access is made to Round Lake, itself 2 yi miles long. Another stream nearer the foot of Buck Lake leads by a route of about six miles, in which there is one rapid, which must be portaged both ways, to Axe Lake, itself 2 ^ miles long. These two lakes. Axe and Round, are the head waters in this direction of this chain of lakes. From Huntsville to here (26 miles) row boats can be used ; and there is no better or safer line of route for a pleasant camping and boating trip, combining both lake and river accessible to all. Throughout these upper waters and in the tributary streams there is excellent trout fishing. Our voyageur will either return from here, or, if his equipment permit its transport, may make a portage of three miles over the water-shed which here forms the dividing line, and embark his craft upon the waters of Doe Lake, a tributary to the #! THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 140 headwaters of the Maganetewan River. Proceeding down this for nine miles he will join the railway again at Katrine (55 miles). And in penetrating to the interior all this may here be found, but without the necessity of going too far away from the centres of habi- tation. "There is a pleasure in the pathless woods, There is a rapture on the lonely shore, There is society where none intrudes." 146 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, Down Stream to Bracebridge. JSy the North Branch. From Hunisvihe the voyageur returning down the river to join the railway again at Bracebridge, or farther on at Gravenhurst — has two routes open to h^s choice the one by the Norih^ the other b;; the South branch of the Muskoka River. In taking the firsts the steamer can be availed of, passing through the pretty Fairy Lake^ (five miles) and then the river again is entered. For the furtherance of navigation, a lock has been constructed by the Ontario Government, near Fetterley's and by this means, after three miles more of river navigation, winding and re-winding through- out, the next lake of the chain is reached. Mary Lake is one of the gems of Muskoka ; many neat residences with clearings of some extent adorn its shores. Its surface is stud- ded with many islands, where berries of various kinds are plentiful in ♦he season, and afford delightful places for pic-nics and camps. At the foot of the lake, upon a gentle elevation overlooking its length, is Port Sidney. The village contains the Syuney Hotel, where there is excellent accommodation provided by Mr. Jeff Avery. A good supply of boats is kept and pleasant trips can be made upon the ro- mantic little lakes. From Port Sidney, return to the railway can be made by two and a half miles drive to the station at Utterson. For those who do not venture on small boating or canoeing, the steamboat route between Hoodstown and Port Sydne", upon the "Little Trio," Vernon, Fairy and Mary, will make a very pretty excursion and give additional test to the enjoyment of the larger and more well-known lakes. Those, however, who do " canof ," can take the Muskoka River from Port Sydney, and enjoy the unique sensation of "running a rapid.' In the route of fifteen uiiles to Bracebridge, there s^re sonfie of ^ TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 147 the rapids which it is not safe to run, but which must be portaged. The entrances to all are well marked so that a watchful eye will keep the canoe from danger, Tt will be best to leave in the morning and then the ran through can be made in the day By the South Branch. The other choice of route in returning from Huntsville is confined to carioeists. Passing easterly through the length of Fairy Lake, a narrow is entered, in which are two portages, each of one hundred feet length on the right or south bank, and thus access is obtained to Peninsula RUNNING RAPID— MUSKOKA RIVER. Lake. Ouithe north shore is Grassmere post-office, and at the south- east end (seven miles), a portage of i^ miles brings to the Lake of Bays. The convenience of a waggon will easily be obtained from some neighbouring settler. Thence to Baysville, at the foot of the lake, is twelve miles, and from there, twenty-five miles by river to the south branch of the Muskoka to Bracebridge. Some people may prefer to go up stream, so we will start with them from Bracebridge* it may be well for the cane .^st who is making his first acquaintance with these river waters, to begin by'going up stream, as he will thus 148 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. become acquainted with the indications of rapids, and by no chance run himself into danger. The South Branch of the Muskoka is the starting point for some of the best fishing districts of Muskoka, among others are Walter^s Creek, Hollow Lake^ Wood Lake^ Sharp's Creek, — all celebrated for their brook trout. A stage runs regularly from Bracebridge to Baysville (i6 miles), leaving on arrival of the mail trains and arriving in the evening. Leaving Bracebridge by water, the tourist can either descend the Muskoka River by canoe to the " River Forks," thence up the South Branch to the foot of the " Great South Falls," where the first port- MAKTNG A PORTAGE -MUSKOKA RIVER age must be made, or, bringing the canoes and camping equipment by waggon, can at this same point commence the ascent of the river. The stream is rapid, and several portages must be made during the first day. At some the baggage is carried round by land and the canoes poled up the rapid ; at others, the Indians shoulder the canoes, thus presenting the appearance of huge snails. At " Rocky Portage" good ground is found for the first " camp." On the second day, " Island Portage " is reached at noon, and " Gravelly Rapids " for the night. At both of these points there is good trout rishing. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 149 it e ig le On the third day ** Cedar Rapids " are passed, and at the ** Upper Falls " near Baysville, the best camping ground is found. The river here runs fast, tumbling down in rocky rapids, and the best speckled trout fishing afforded. Baysville, on the river and i ^ miles from the entrance to the lake, is a capital resort for the tourist and t^e sportsman. Those who are on the round trip will find it about a Oay's canoeing from the " Upper Falls," to the camping ground at the portage to Peninsula Lake j from thence they can proceed, as previously described. There are good local supply stores in the town, and arrangements for steam- boat trips on the lakes can he made with Capt Huckins. Jelly's Hotel ; the Norfolk House, kept by Mr. Howard, and Keeler's Hotel are mentioned here. LAKE OF BAYS. This is the largest of the lakes which are tributary to the Muskoka River, being about 20 miles in length. In width it is eccentric and fully deserves its name. There are not many islands in it, but it is superlative in jutting points, clad with the dark green outlines of the finest pine timber. Canoeists who are exploring its shores, had better, after taking the south east trip towards Dorset, return north by Haystack Bay, and make the short portage to North East Bay. As not having been so accessible, the shores of its deep clear waters remain more in the state of nature than any ether. Nei- ther the settler's axe nor the fires of careless camping parties have denuded the banks of their leafy coverings. "■ '■"■'^ '■'■'■'"' ^'i CAMP-FIRES. How earnestly it is to be wished, that all who light *• camp-fires " would be watchful to see that all sparks are perfectly extinguished. Oftentimes it will appear to the eye that no fire remains, but under- neath, in the dry mossy ground, a " smudge " still exists to burst long after into fiame, and spreading slowly through the roots and undergrowth to do infinite damage. 160 TSE NOttTHmN LAKES OF CANADA. Never light a fire except upon bare rock or bare ground — if on the latter, remove all neighbouring moss, so that the fire cannot by any means spread. Always before leaving put the fire out, deluge the place with water and cover it with dry earth. Be careful that none of the charred and unburned sticks retain any fire. Not only for the sake of beauty do this, but also for the sake of the i--' .^ settlers and the lumber- i^^S men, whose "all" may Wi'-'--^: be lost by your care- lessness, for sometimes a small camp-fire fanned by the winds will run for miles and destroy a whole forest The streams falling in- to this lake are inter- spersed with rapids and waterfalls which form >'!> home and harbour for many speckled trout. It is somewhat peculiar to note that this class of fish seems to be almost restricted in this section to the neighbourhood of this lake, and running often up to three or four pounds weight. White fish and salmon trout are found in the lake itself. Hollow^ Fletcher and Hardwood Lakes are all on the eastern branch of the main lake and noted for their trout. Under the name of Trading Lake, these waters have attained renown, and this name is still BRINGING HOME THE CATCH. TffM NtxiTHJUBN LAKES OF CANADA, 161 retained at the eastern extremity. A little further to the east is a lake whose name may be managed by those who have survived the little stream north of the Severn — Lake Kahweambettwayamo^. Captain Huckin's steamers Dean and Excelsior^ the latter a capital new one of seventy-five feet keel, keep up the communications be- tween Baysville and the post-offices and settlements around the lake. At North East Bay, near Dwight Post-office, the continuation of the river enters the lake. Upon its waters are strung out a long series of little lakes, all affording ^'>od sport, among them Ochtwan (or OxTongue), Canoe^ Island, Big Joe and other lakes By this chain there is a canoe route which has been already followed by several parties which, arriving at the head waters of the Muskoka, make a short portage to the Petewawa and Madawaska Rivers, thence down to the Ottawa River, — a round trip of much attractiveness and variety. Go!die's Uotel at Dwight, will make a good headquarters — and a ready welcome be assured to all good sportsmen. The district around Lake of Bays is most highly esteemed for its deer hunting, the best of duck and partridge shooting, — indeed, whether for rod or gun the visitor is sure of ample employment. Here- abouts are to be found " The happy hunting grounds of the Dwight- Wiman Sporting Club." Their names have become localized, and here for rest and recreation, zest and fresh energy comes annually that ardent Canadian, Erastus Wiraan, whose successes in the United States seem only to intensify his affection for his native land. A good example gives he to the young Canadian. From Goldie's, a line of excellent lakes run north, all full of sport, Cooper^ Devil's Angle, Long, Little Twin, Big Twin, Crotch, Poverty ^ Buck and Clear, all communicating by short portages. Good sport, canoes and guides who know where the best fishing spots are, and trained dogs accustomed to the vicinity for hunting, are all necessary. The names of the best men, well-known and reliable from having already conducted fishing and hunting parties through this district, are given in the list of guides. Mr. W. H. Brown, of Baysville, is also referred to as an obliging correspondent 152 THE NORTHERN LAKEti OF CANADA. The Maganetewan River Chain. Leaving Huntsville, the railway crosses the Muskoka river near Melissa (39 miles), and then surmounts the water shed, during which several streams are followed, and the acute eye will note when those that run south are left and those that run north are met Katrine (55 miles), Morton's Hotel. — This is the centre of a splendid lake country. Sand^ Beaver, and Long Lakes, on the South Magafietewan River, Three Mile and Doe Lakes close by. Here, as noted previously, connection is made with the Maganetewan River, and canoes or light boats can be taken for the water trip to Hunts- ville. The railway continues following the banks for four miles, dur- ing which the river is crossed four times, the next station is Burlis Falls (60 miles). — This station opens up another and en- tirely new region to steamboat navigation to the tourist and the tra- veller, and particularly to the sportsman, who can now get with com- paratively little trouble to a district which has hitherto been accessible only to those with ample means and time. This chain of lakes and the Maganetewan River is just equidistant between the Muskoka and Nipissing chains of waters, and drains a surface of about 4,000 square miles. Some idea may therefore be gathered of its magnitude, and of the possibilities for canoeing, opened up by the ramification of the numerous tributaries and their attendant lake enlargements. The very heart centre for sport for rod and gun, its rivers and lakes can be ascended and descended in canoes and boats amid the best of sport, while the eye is fascinated by the fresh, unsullied wildness of its forest haunts. Wild birds and deer abound. Speckled trout are caught weighing 3 to 5 lbs. ; bass, 5 to 8 lbs. ; pickerel, 8 to 14 lbs. " Music," in Forest and Stream, thus speaks of the Maganetewan : " Now a word about the region. If a man can stand out-door life, and live on venison, trout, bass, partridges, ducks, pork, tea and crackers, there is no better place to go to in America that is as ac- cessible. A man can go there in July, August, September, or Octo- TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 163 ber with comfort, if he will go in the right way, and shoot deer and catch trout to his heart's content. June to August for trout, after that for deer. Remember the Maganetewan is as large as the Schuylkill at Philadelphia, or considerably wider and deeper than the Harlem at High Bridge, and that the trout have an unlimited range, and are JL.li THE hunter's camp. seldom disturbed, so that they have a chance to grow. Deer can be bagged in great] numbers if you choose to do so ; with a couple of good hounds magnificent sport could be had in the fall. I have shot partridges with my rifle from the canoe while travelling, as they were strutting on the shore, and their ' drumming ' was one of the plea- 154 TEE NORTHERN LAKES 0^ CANADA. santest every-day sounds. Do not try to go without some guide. There are men who know the country, and they should be secured, for if you get in there alone, you will have little sport and much trouble. I have no possible interest in noticing this region except that I believe it to be unsurpassed in many ways." The village of Burk's Falls stands upon the banks of the main Maganetewan (•* the smooth flowing water "), at the head of steam- boat navigation, and about half a mile below the forks of the river where the two great north and south branches join. The station is half a mile from the town, in which are several good stores and three p!^ '-i:'^^S'^::ri;h^^M i^i*i^mgs^muim^ TP ^H^BgHl^H^nHffiF^^^^^?V^ Spfl TJL-r'" -rr^llf ^~-^^ — ^ •"■^^ — ■"""* til ^^^^ =^^a^-— — ifl^ I '^Slfflj''' '^""^^■' — ''•"' *'!^ '_^^~^ " — ^fi'; — Tl.ii. *'-»p —: ^S.'^ ^atcMl^Eir^^^S^ Ms^imu ^Hli^ :. . ^''S^^W'^mi.T ■ ^ - -^- plJZ— 11 2. -jl" "'"WliLiiiSiij^ ' ^ ^ ■ ' '' •■.^- ■■ -^ ^-:: ^^^^^^fty ^"•*»'s^ - .:r' :..:.' -:r=:- i^ 7 -.ZL^-z^rrz::::^^:^. -.■=■, ■■■,■■.- Tzr-TT^r:: ■- rrr -^^Mgffil^^^MK*t^W ra^r^K^n^^as^aK ^1 i A 1— — ■-^---"— - ~~rsr-^-JatM^ ' J^M nrn III J -'■ 1 \mm *^ ^=19^ .■ \ . I 1 '". BP'" 'i'i,"^r,. i. -i^y-r^ L.* S:^.^ . tm^amty- .-^.if^r^j^^^is^iJvimjrK ■ t "^ g^- ^~?>tfivi , ,^ -"^^"^ V -= ' ^ 1 %^- ii^m^^^'m^i- r V ! ^-^iTS :^raasgife.'fc^ i iiiMiH III m vim *' . ■>,* '- l^^fe-«— .' --■--•TWM_r-f...r_:-???7^'^l - ^ 'J|||l,| --■ - ---^— -- *=:-^i— =-=^^11^^ i'-^^^'inf^^ J/'"VV!' *" 'n — '■ s=%?-^^7 ', '.-- - -^P?vi - -' J V '...— ^: :-'"■- ... ^^',^/^ #..'- - - r"-:-^^J| --."^-i" i'— ^'^ ^^ P=-4r_j.^^-- ....,* . - — ^«?- -=~ i.^-^ fl--'- :: ,. ' -' -X ---^=-^!« '. ■• '^^Sfc=^ ^^ i:^g^ >-•- .-----^^^^::-^=^_-^^^' ^^*p, »jP-aiijji.'-|.,-i|^i;;i 1^/,, _ .-.liAaB^ ".^-riii^^iS*,^- . - -•% i-' ', '''"''tS: ■figaifegwp ^- • LAKE AH-MIC. country hotels — D. F. Burk's, Trimmer's, and the Cataract House, by W. F. Thomson. From here can be taken daily the new combined paddle and screw steamer Wenonah, of the Muskoka Navigation Company. For fifteen miles the river is followed, winding to and fio, as all Muskoka rivers seem to do. Lake Seseebe forms the next link for ten miles, at the foot of which is the thriving town oi Maganetewan. Here the Great Northern Colonization road crosses the river and a centre for the surrounding districts has been formed. There are two hotels, Maga- THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 155 netewan House, by S. B. Fish ; Northern House, by Mr. Carroll. A number of stores form a particularly good headquarters during the hunting season. After passing through the locks, the steamer continues for three miles more in the river, and then enters the lovely Lake Ah-Mic. This is another of the genis of Muskoka ; most quaint in form, its arms and elongations form a very maze of interlacings, so their constant vistar of projecting heights with glimpses of distant waters and high ridges with closely-wooded forests of hard wood trees, give soft rounded out- lines to the distant scenery. In summer this combination of the rich greens of the maple, oak and birch, is most beautiful, but when in autumn the bright red tints show forth their resplendent colours, it is simply indescribable. The lake is twelve miles in length, and calling places are not yet very numerous. The Depot Farm, now called Port Anson, Thomas Bal'dock's Hotel, and Ah-Mic Harbour with Croswell's Hotel may be mentioned as attractive points where travellers will find very fair ac- commodation, at the end of his forty mile trip from the railway station. This is also another excellent route for boating, as there are no rapids to interfere or portages to make while a nice diversity of pad- dling or rowing in the rivers is interspersed with sailing on the lakes. The camping facilities are good, and not a few farm houses will give ready supplies and shelter. The pioneers who have penetrated to this country and settled on its lake shores are all sportsmen, and boats and canoes and skilful guides, whose wood craft has been learned by long practice on their own account, can be found everywhere. From here on, the more adventurous can continue their canoe route by the Great River, twelve miles to Lake Wah-wa-kesh, and thence to Byng Inlet, about fifty-five miles away on the shores of the Georgian Bay. In this distance there are 21 portages, of varying lengths, from one of some two miles, to most of only a few yards. Their combined length is about eight miles, leaving 42 miles of good canoeing water. It is a trip not to be attempted without first-class guides. These portages made there are few difficulties to be overcome, and in good hands these form only the sources of adventure for which the trip is undertaken. 166 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. The Regain Chain. Dunchurch, a vilkge three and a half miles by road from Ah-Mic Lake, is on the shores of Whitestone Lake^ another of the celebrated centres for sport in fin and fur. The herring fishing in the narrows is most excellent, and the hunting and shooting of the best. From here return can be made in another direction by taking the colonization road, 9^ miles, to the village oi McKeliar, which is the centre of another lake system. Here the canoe can again be put in the water and following the Seguin River and its enlargements, Lakes Miinitowaba^ Trout^ and Mill^ can with facility arrive at Parry Sounds on the shores of the Georgian Bay. There are only three portages in the whole distance, one of half a mile, and two of one mile each ; there are also three very short lifts. The other following the eastern arm of Lake Manitowaba portage 2 y^ miles to Blackwater Lake, and then canoe through the connecting Lake Isabella past the village of Edg- ington mto Maple Lake and Marsh and Star Lakes, and so portage again half a mile to Turtle P. O. on Turtle Lake, close to Port Cock- burn on Lake Joseph. Neither of these routes present very great difficulties, as they are almost entirely lake work. These samples give some idea of the possibilities of navigation in the many connecting waters of the Muskoka District, and what a wealth of exercise and adventure lies before the youth of Canada. The French River Chain. Sundridge (70 miles), the next point of any importance, is on the shores of Stony Lake, the summit water of the south slope of the district being 268 feet above Lake Muskoka. The lake is shallow, very regular in form, without any islands, and abounds in fish. South River (77 miles) is the first crossing of the new watershed, where the waters run north to Lake Nipissing. It is the highest THE NOKTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. m point on the railway, and the dividing line between the two water- sheds, being 378 feet above Lake Muskoka, and 553 above Lake Nipissing. One must suppose that this is called the " South " River because it runs " north " on the same principle as that given by Pat concerning the different Irish jaunting cars, on one kind of which the passengers sit back to back with their feet over the wheels, and the other face to face with their feet inside the car. " Oh, I dunno at all, but I suppose they call it an outsyde kyar becase tlie whales is insyde, and it's an insyde kyar becase the whales is outsyde." Mr. Holditch keeps the hotel, the "Ontario Height of Land House," and intends putting up an observation platform in Moose Park, from where eight lakes can be seen in a circle of five miles. The Dunbars Falls of the river are worthy a visit, being 150 feet high. The river itself is from 150 to 200 feet in width, and a good canoeing stream. It is 24 miles paddle to Lake Nipissing, during which some rapids, but not very fast, are passed. The speckled trout in the river are the largest and most plentiful anywhere this side of Nepigon, and in the hunting season moose aie met as well as large numbers of the red deer. It will be noticed that for some little time the appearance of the country has changed and the land im- proved. All through this latter part of the railway, immigration is beginning, and fine fertile farms with soil as good and opportunities better than the frontier farms of thirty years ago, will here be carved out of the forest. A certain market to the lumberman, and now easy access to the front country will settle up the better parts of this district. Barretts (92 miles), is the centre of a large and thriving settle- ment, and another unexcelled centre for brook trout fishing and for moose and deer hunting. Commanda is fifteen miles west by road from here, or can also be most conveniently reached by the regular stages running daily from Maganetewan (see page 154). This section has been deservedly awarded the highest renown for the record of its sport. Being some- what remote, but now brought into more convenient access, the banks <^% ':^a> vrj^n^i IMAGE EVALUATSON TEST TARGET (MT-S) & V- t/i %! % 1.0 I.I 1.25 lii|2£ |2.5 40 mil 2.0 12.2 1.8 14 IIIIII.6 <5> ^ /2 '^^" ^7: '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY 14580 (716) 872-4503 •vS m iV 'C^ .<-"'- ^. <^ ^^' ^. V I ! Ill I ir ' \ 108 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, of the streams and of the lakes are more completely in the state of nature than elsewhere, and for miles unbroken forest hems in the view. Following up the Great Nipissing Colonization road from Maganetewan, about halfway is Meganoma, — [We have struck the trail]. Russell & Archer's hotel here is absolutely first-class, kept by good caterers and ardent sports- men. This is the centre for Eagle Lake^ Many Island^ Spring and Pickerel Lakes, and Distress River, — all celebrated fishing and hunting spots and comprised in what is known as the Commanda District, Rye is also a good centre. The stages stop for dinner at Wm. Park's hotel. At Commanda itself Carr's Temperance Hotel and Fitzgerald's are good stopping places. From here the Commanda River can be followed thiough Commanda Lake and Restoul Lake to Chaudiere Falls, near the shores of Lake Nipissing, than which no more pleasant or more sporting route exists: As all this neighbour- hood is comparatively uninhabited, it is not advisable to attempt it without guides. After Powasing (95 miles) a good spot for trout on the Jenesse Creek, we arrive at Lake Nipissing, ! I CaUender (108 miles), on South East bay, gives the first glimpse of the waters, being situated on a hill side sloping up from the bay. At present there about forty houses and three country hotels. Here the steamers touch for various parts of the lake. At the entrance to the bay is a very numerous group of islands, almost all of which have been taken up by residents of Hamilton. La Vase {i\2 miles from Gravenhurst and 226 from Toronto) is the connecting point with the Canadian Pacific Railway and the all- rail route to Manitoba and the North-West. I THJB NOBTBEBN LAKES OF CANADA. U» The Kartlest Route to tbe North-West The country we have now arrived at would at first thought seem to have been newly discovered, and to be now for the first time opened to the transport of the civilized traveller. Yet long before the advancing European colonist had penetrated to the shores of the Niagara, this route, up the Ottawa valley and along the shores of Lake Nipissing — the very line of the newly constructed Canadian Pacific Railway— had been traversed by many traders and travellers, and was their highway between Montreal and the Red River Country. As we have been travelling North, crossing the various East and West routes, and seemingly passing from the older and front coun- tries to the newer and more remote districts, we have really been meeting them in the reverse order of their development. When the whites first commenced to trade with the interior of the continent by the Gulf of the St. Lawrence, the first route that was opened up by them was this by Lake Nipissing. Next came the portage by the Humber, or Toronto River, and Lake Simcoe ; and lasityt that by the Niagara. It was not until 1669 that Pdre Gallinde, canoeing around the western shores of Lake Ontario, says : " We found a river, one-eighth of a league broad, and extremely rapid, forming the outlet of Lake Erie, and emptying into Lake Ontario. The depth of the river is at this place extraordinary, for, on sounding close by the shore, we found fifteen or sixteen fathoms of water. This outlet is forty leagues long, and has, from ten to twelve leagues above Lake Ontario, one of the finest cataracts in the world ; for all the Indians of whom I have enquired about it say that the river falls at that place from a rock higher than the tallest pines — that is, about two hundred feet." Then was the Niagara River first met by the whites ; and not until 160 THE SORTEERfi LAKES OF CANADA. 1 I i 1678 did Father Hennepin, the first European to see those Falls, stand by the cataract of Niagara. Yet sixty-three years before this, in 16 15, before even the Pilgrim Fathers had landed on the shores . of America, Champlain, the French Governor of Quebec, had advanced with a party of armed men and passed up the Ottawa to Lake Nipissing. He found the shores occupied by between 70 d and 800 Indians, and after enjoying its " abundance of game," and describing its northern side as being " very pleasant, with fine meadows for the grazing of cattle, and many little stream^ discharging into the lake," he passed down the French River to the Lake of the Hurons. Following him came the Coureurs-des-tois, the voyageurs and trap- pers of the Canadian "North-West" and "X. Y." fur companies, carrying over the rocky portages all the stores for themselves and the Hudson's Bay Company, at Fort William, and the packs of furs which sought this, for nearly a century the main route between the North-West and Tide- water. Early travellers have described its dan- gers and difficulties, and the many crosses erected along the route — memorials of brave men who had lost their lives in battling with the turbulent rapids of the stream, or with the many foes along its banks, of whom stories of valour, or of pathos and self-sacrifice, such as that of the gallant Cadieux, " voyageur, poSte et guerrier," float down in history : " Seul en ces bois, que j'ai eu de soucis ! Pensant toujours & mes si chers amis, Je deixiandais : H^las ! sont-ils noy^s ? Les Iroquois les auraient-ils tu^s ? — E. Gagnon, Chansons Populaires du Canada. Along the shores, the summer tourist can in fancy picture the pass- ing lines of heavy-laden canoes, and hear once more the gay-hearted voyageurs singing out their cheerful French chansons^ while keeping time with dripping paddle to the stirring tune. THE NOBTHBBN LAKES OF CANADA. 161 A la Claire fontaine* Fram Chansons Populaires du Canada. — Morgan, Quebec ••Iv. Andanixno. A la clai - re fon - tai • ne M'en al - lant pro- me- ner, J'ai trou-vd I'eau si bel • le Que je me siiis bai - gn^. ^.MW^MI Lui ya longtemps que je t'ai- me, Ja • maia je ue t'ou - blie- rai. J'ai trouv^ I'eau si belle, Que je m'y suio baign^ ; Sous les feuilles d'un ohdne Je me suis fait at^cher. Lui ya longtemps, etc. Sons les feuilles d'un chfine Je me suia fait archer ; Sur la plus haute branche Le rossignol chantait. Lui ya longtemps, etc. Sur la plus haute branche Le rossignol chantait, Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as le coeur gai. Lui ya longtemps, etc. Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as le coeur gai, Tu as le cceur k rire, Moi je I'ai-t-k-pleurer. Lui ya longtemps, etc. K Tu as le coeur k rire, Moi je I'ai-t-k pleurer. J'ai perdu ma maitresse Sans I'avoir mdritd. Lui ya longtemps, etc. J'ai perdu ma maitreaie Sans I'avoir m^rit^, Pour un bouquet de roses Que je lui refusal. Lui ya longtempn, etc. Pour un bouquet de roses Que je lui refusal. Je voudrais que la rose F&t encore au rosier, Lui ya longtemps, etc. Je voudrais que la rose Fiit encore au rosier, Et moi et ma maitresse Dans les mdme amities. Lui y» longtemps, eto. 162 THE NOBTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. I ! The Parry Island Archipelago. The Penetanguishene branch, after leaving Allandale, follor s the curve of the hills to the east of the Noitawasaga, Valley. The river is filled with the accumulations of the debris of the freshets of hun- dreds of years, so that large portions of the valley are completely Hooded in the early spring. Little by little it is being reclaimed ; but vast acres of forest still occupy the bottom banks ; and to the left of the train a view is had over their waving tops, surging like a green ocean with the inequalities of the surface. Penetan^ishene (102 miles from Toronto) is one of the historic spots of Canada, but in the impatient haste of these modern days it has had to allow its name to be curtailed to " Penetang." The town lies at the head of a deep inlet on the south-east shore of the Georgian Eay, which early attracted attention as a safe and commodious har- bour. The importance of the naval command of the Upper Great lakes led the British Government, in 1818, to fix upon a site near the mouth of the bay for the establishment of a dockyard. A war- sloop, the Midas, was here Stationed for some years ; but the idea of making a naval centre was shortly after abandoned. [The position has since been occupied by a Juvenile Reformatory, maintained by the Canadian Government]. The British Government had induced a number of pensioners to occupy lands in the vicinity which formed part of the military reservation — the records of the names of many of whom are to be found in the old Military Church, and under the waters of the bay may still be seen, on calm days, the sunken hulls of the old gunboats of which they formed the crews. The town, situated 2 % miles from the Reformatory, developed a considerable trade in furs, large quantities of which were l)rought by Indians and Half-breeds from the almost unbroken forests and count- less lakes to the North-East, which afforded an unrivalled hunting ground. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 168 ^ Some families of French and English Half-breeds and of French Canadians, who, on the giving up of Drummond Island, Lake Huron, to the Americans, in 1828, retained their British allegiance, were grantee, lands in the vicinity. In 1841 a number of their compatriots from Lower Canada joined them, forming what is now known as the French Settlement. In 1880 the census reports the French-speaking population of the County of Simcoe as 3,669, almost all of whom live within a few miles of Penetanguishene ; and in the Roman Catholic churches the services are still rendered in the French lan- guage. Pleasant excursions can be made from here to Midland City, Mouth of the Sevei J, Parry Sound, etc. The Clarkson House, on a height overlooking the bay, is recommended. THE ARCHIPELAGO. There are two lines of steamers which ply through these islands on the route to Parry Sqund. The Great Northern Transit Company, from CoUingwood, and the Parry Sound Company, from Penetang. Both lines of steamers pass through this maze of islands. Ten thousand have been counted about here in the nautical survey of the Georgian Bay, and the whole shore is fringed with them, of all sizes, from mere dots to hundreds of acres, with high towering cHff-like centres. Through the Inside Channel of these the steamers wind their way. One open spot only exists, Moose Pointy where the lake has open sweep, but except this, all else is through channels, some so narrow as to almost touch the steamers' sides. Many of the Islands are oc- cupied with summer-houses, and there is no doubt that ere long there will be as great a population as now takes its summer outings on the inland Lakes of Muskoka. PARRY SOUND. This large and flourishing town is beautifully situated at the mouth of the Seguin River, whose waterfalls are utilized for its gigantic sawmills, and upon a deeip recessed harbour, completely sheltered from the open water. From it the summer can be spent either in ex- 1«4 THE hlOBTHERN LAKES OF CANADA m 111 ploring, by means of the several steam launches, the windings up the^ Archipelago, or stkiking inland, take the canoe trips up the interior. Good fishing abounds of the same character as inland, except that some extra-sized bass, old lake stagers, are occasionally captured. T/ie BelvidereHote/{%i. New York, Boston, Phila- delphia, and all points East or South. Royal Mail Line. Lake Ontario, The Thousand Islands, White Mountains, Montreal, Quebec, Saguenay, Gulf of St. Lawrence. In MAN Line— Queenstown, Liverpool. GuioN Line — Queenstown, Liverpool. North German Lloyd — London, Cherbourg, Bremen. State Line — Belfast, Glasgow. Red Star T me — Antwerp. The Continent. far Tiokdt »nd Passenger arrangoments made, Berths secured, for all the above Lines. BARLOW CUMBERLAND, General Ticket Affent. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, 187 OVIDES. It is often true economy to engage the services of those whose local knowledge will most quickly bring the newcomer \,o the best places for engag- ing in the sport for which he seeks, and at all events they will lighten his labours and certainly add to his pleasures. In canoeing, dangers may often be avoided. In deer hunting there is absolute necessity, and at all times, in an unknown country, it is well to have with one a Guide \ who knows the bush As the seaman knows the sea. Men and boys to row may be engaged from $1.00 to $1.50 per day. Experienced fishermen and huntsmen, including canoes, $2.00 per day ; Hounds, 50c. per day. The various Hotel-keepers may be consulted. The following men have been \ jally recommended : Lakes Rosseau and Joseph and Moon River Districts. Thos, Webster, John Peters, Abraham Asa Rosseau P. O. R. Holton Ashdown *' Jas. DavJs, Frank Wing Trout Lake J. Jennings, H. Vr nkoughnet Folding Wm. Brady, John Richards Port Cockburn Ed. Yellovvhead, Joe Ingersoll, Sampson Ingersoll, John Bigwin. . .Bala Lake of Bays and South Branch, Muskoka River District. Dorset P. O. Allan Phillips, Alvin Phi' "pB, Henry Sawyer, Chris. Sawyer, Matthew McCaw, Tom Keown. Dwight P. O. Thos. E. Salmon, Archie Goldie, Edward Goldie, William Blackwell, Frank Blackwell, Arthur Osborne, Tom Salmon, George Robson, Grieves Robson, James Triembn, William Trueman. Baysville P. O. Daniel Vancliff, Henry Vancliif, Samuel Vancliff. Menominee P. O. Jeff. Avery, and his Sons. 188 TEE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. s\i\ M Commanda District. Thomas ^ Gra wbarger. ..Restoul P.'O. Thomas Smith " " Thomas Armstrong. . . . Nipissing ' * R. Manering ] Rye Wm. Porter Restoul John Suttiffe Ardagh < ( Nipissing District. Nicholas Wessels. .Boolah Creek P. O. Fred. KiUey Sam. Lett' " '♦ Jas. Sheppard La Vase " Rich. Jessup " '' Maganetewan District. George Ross Speuce P. O. J. McMillan Maganetewan " Wm. Harris '••• " " Jos. Jenkins John Wilkins Dunchurch •' John Labrash Maple Island " H. Armstrong McKellar " S. G. Ritter !|1 1 ii Hints as to Camping Outfit. The equipment carried by " Campers " varies according to their fancy. The following are the most necessary requirements : Equipment. — Ridge Tent, No. 3. The pole can be carried from place to place, and pins and uprights cut on landing. For a larger party a smaller tent to shelter the " cook " and the provisions is desirable. Axe, hatchet, deep pot or bake kettle, sauce pan, frying pan, gridiron, kettle, tea-pot, long iron spoon, long iron fork, butcher knife, knives, forks, and spoons, tin wash dish, round tin dish pans, tin cups, tin, or thick earthenware plates, water pail, sugar, salt, pepper, and tea cans, two hand lanterns for candle :. Provisions. — Biscuits, flour, bread, sides clear bacon sewn in canvas, tea, sugar, salt, pepper, soap in bars, condensed milk, raisins, beans, dried apples, rice, matches, sperm candles. Clothing — One change of underclothing, flannel shirt, and woollen trousers j three or four pairs of wool socks, overcoat, or mackintosh. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. 189 heavy long boots for day, pair easy old gaiter boots, or leather slippers for camp, extra cap or tuque, handy bag for small things, large dunnage bag to hold all clothing. The Clame Laws of Ontario, The Game Laws of Ontario are rigidly enforced, particularly in the district of Muskoka, where the residents are fully alive to the fact that in the providing of good sport, both with gun and rod, lies op- portunity for large cash earnings by their community from the visitors who come among them. Game inspectors are appointed in each township, who are empow- ered to watch their neighbourhood, to inspect boxes or receptacles, and search houses, when they have reason to believe game, or skins of game, are concealed out of season, and to summon offenders before the justices of the peace. Confiscation of the game follows conviction. SEASONS FOR SPuRT. Fish and game may be takm within the following periods : fish: Salmon and lake trout ist Dec. to ist Nov. Speckled or brook trout ist May to 15th Sept Bass 15th June to 15th May. Maskinonge and Pickerel 15th May to 15th April. GAME. Deer, elk, moose, reindeer, caribou.. 15th Oct. to 15th Dec. Woodcock 15th Aug. to ist Jany. Grouse, pheasants, prairie fowl, par- tridge 1st Sept to ist Jany, w III f' 190 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. Snipe, plover ist Sept. to ist Jany. Swans or Geese ist Sept. to ist May. Duck and all other water fowl ist Sept. to ist Jany. Hares ist Sept. to isthMarch. Quail may not be taken at all during 1886, 1887, "or wild turkey, during 1886, 1887, or 1888, and thereafter only from 15th Octo- ber to 15th December. No person may have any of above game in his possession except during the above stated periods, or for the purposes of being exposed for sale for fifteen days after such periods. No eggs of game birds may be taken at any time. No game may be taken by trapping, nor by use of swivel guns or sunken batteries, nor during the night from one hour after sundown to one hour before sunrise. FUR BEARING ANIMALS. . No beaver, mink, muskrat, sable, martin, otter or fisher may be hunted or taken except between ist November and ist May, and any one finding any traps set for them during any other time, may destroy the traps without incurring any liability. No muskrat houses may be broken into at any time. Where imported kind of game is preserved by any one " on their own lands," no one can hunt it without the consent of the owner of the land. No hound or dog, known to pursue deer, shall be allowed to run at large from the 15th Nov. to the following 15th Oct. No deer can be exported from Ontario. FINES. Not less Not mor« than than In case of <'eer Each offence $10 $50 In case of birds or eggs " 5 25 In case of fur trapping " 5 25 Other breaches " 5 25 Costs are payable in addition to fines. The whole fine goes to the inspector, or to the prosecutor if not an inspector. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. m List of Islands and Owners. LAKE MUSKOKA. ^°'- Name. Owners. 1 Horse Shoe « i 2 One Tree ^"^"^ 3 \\\ 4 5 VVolesley \\ 6 Apollo !!...... 7 Sappho 8 Kewaydin \ , „ 9 Hillerest '.'.'.".'. .'.'.'.[ "" ' 10 Hiawatha. 11 Friday .........!... 12 Seven | • [ '" 13 Sisters ) ..........! H Robinson Crusoe .'!.!!.!. 15 Crown 18 Ship ; 21 Gibraltar ' U -^ 25 Morris '.'.'.'.'.' Taverner. 26 Shaw 27 ".'.'.' V " y; 28 Wunilah 29 .*.' 30 !'.'.".'.'.";;.■ Camp Comfort 31 ^2 " E. Morris. 35 Colombia ■.■.■.■■;'.■.*.;■;;■;.'. fc?- ^°/"s- , 36 Murillo ■.■'.'.■.■.■'" Madame Janeck. 37 Home w r -o A^^ 7& Fairholm rl. K^. Kodick. 39 Duncan "'• ^' ^°ot« 40 Marion's !!.!!!! Ji ThVBroihws": ::::::::::;:;; I ^'^"^^- ^- K. 1 . Pope 46 Burnt ...*.'.'.'.*.*.*,*..*!"'.' J' ^" Morris, 47 Birch ......!...*..*.'.! 48 Frank ', 49 Frank !,.!.'.!!.. 50 Eilian Gowan .\ 52 Chief ••«, 193 THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA, LAKE MUSKOKA— (C"tf»/m«^rf.) Nos. 54 Browiiing's . Name. Owners. 57 58 59 6o 6i 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 73 76 79 80 83 84 92 (( << (( Walker's. Delamere J. M . Delatncre. S. Denison. Twin BluflFs Wm. Millar. Island F R. K. Burgess. Plumpudding Fishermans Beach Grove, T. E. Moberly. Heydon G. T. Denison. Crawford's Rankin w Gairney Broomleigh Whitt Ault-Dowrie Gull Katago Mary Daisy .. Henry Percy LAKE ROSSEAU. :li in jii 1 Ixt. { : Nos. Name. Owners. 1 Shady J. Maclennan. 2 3 .> H. Kingsmill. 6 Picnic Jas. Maclennan. 7 McKeaggie J. McKeaggie* 8 9 Jaw Bone ...... 18 R. K. Bui^ess. Point Idleswood Mrs. Little. 19 , Rev. M. Sanson. 20 Carter. E. T. Carter. 21 Yorum Mr. Murray. 22 Mazengah C. E. Blachford. 2? .,.,..,..,,. H. P. Dwight. THE NORTHERN LAKES OF CANADA. IW LAKE ROSSEAU— (Cwrf««^use 214 Ferndale — Penson Hotel 217 Clevelands— C. J. Minett 217 Maplehurst— Brown's Hotel ilO Fort Sandfii Id— Prospect House 212 Cniigie ea-Crai:ielea House 214 Port Coekburn— Sumn:it House 809 A)i-Mic Harbour-Croswell Hotel 214 huntsville— Uomii i; n Hotel 217 Baysville - Foi est House 219 Fakry Soi'KD— Belvidere Hotel 216 CoLLiNGW lOD— GItbe Hotel 220 Central Hotel 220 Meaford— Paul's Hotel 221 Noble's Hotel 121 Port Artiiur— The Northern Hotel, ... 218 lit HEADQUARTERS — FOR- Tents, Camp-Furniture. Hammocks. &c.. &c. FOLDING CHAIRS AND STOOLS FOR STEAMBOATING IN GREAT YARIEfY. Jast the thing | for the lawn, ve- randah or " The coolO'^t place in the house." Price only $2.60. The Champion Folding Camp- Cot opens and shuts like a Jack- knife, and will cary half a ton weight with per- fect safety. When not in use occupies no more space than a broom. Expressed to any addres on receipt of ^2.50 or C. O. D. Write for complete illustrated catalogue of abov goods ; also of out-door games, LAWN TEIVWIS, BA§E BALL., CRICKET, LACROSSE, &c., &c., to p. G. AImImAN* City News and Games Depot, 3B KIIVO STItEJST TVEST, TOUOIVTO. AIKESIffHEAD A CROMEBIEp 9 Corner King and Yonge Streets, Toronto, — IMPORTERS OF- I^odgeps' pine Pocket and I'able Cutlery, GALVANIZED BOAT and OANOE FITTINGS, Cordage, Oakum, Blocks^ Fine Iron Stable Fittings and Patent Magic Feed-Box. Builders', Maohinis^.s', Oarvers,' Blacksmiths' Supplies and ' every desoription of Hardware. Fishing Tackle and Dog Collars in Greai Variety. 199 Established 1830. WOLTl BEOS. & CO., IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN DIAMONDS, Fine Swisfi and American W.r:,{;ohe8, Gold Chains, Ladies Gold and Silver Jewel* lery. Gold Headed Canes, Gold Thimbles, Sterling Silver and Electo- Platbd Wark, etc., etc. We would call sepcial attention to our fii adjusted Swiss Watches, Minute Re- peaters, Sporting Watches, with independent split second ; also single flyback at- tachments, fine OPEN face watches suitable for railroad conductors and engineers. Every IVaf^li l¥arranted to Give Satltfiictlon. Our $20.00 Diamond Rings, d best value in the market. Sent by mail on receipt of price. . WOLTZ BROS. & 00., 99 King Street East, Toronto, Out. "~ ooix: & CO., STOCK BROKERS, (MEMBERS TORONTO STOCK EXCHANGE.) Have the only Independent Direct Wire giving continuous New York Stock quo- tations, and which are received Qdiokeb Than by Ant Other Line. Buy and Sell on Commission for Cash or on Margin ALL SECURITIES DEALT IN ON THE TORONTO, MONTREAL, AND NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGES. ALSO EXEODTB OBDSBB ON THE CHICAGO BOARD OF TRADE In Grain and Provisions. DaUy Cable Quotations of Hudson's Bay and other stocks 26 TORONTO STil££T. 200 49 King 8t. East, Toronto. 9 One of Toronto's Greatest Attractions. ITS AKT ROOM ALWAYS FILLED WITH ORNAMENTS OF THE LATEST DESIGNS FROM THE BEST EUROPEAN MARKETS. Dinner, Dessert, Tea and Breakfast Sets In English and French China and Stone PARIAIV mARBLE, Bisque and Bronze Figures and Ornaments, ELECTRO-PLATE, LATEST NOVELTIES. HOTEL GLASS, CHINA AND CUTLERY A SPECIALTY. GLOVER HARRISON, Proprietor. FULTON, MICHZE & CO., C3- K/ O O E 12, S , WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS, are prepared to supply a full assortment of every requisite for CAMPING, FISHING AND SHOOTING Soupsy Meats and Vegetables, Hams and Bacon, etc., etc. ALL .KINDS OF LIQUORS, TOBBACOO AND CIGARS. Oooda Packed OarefaUy and Promptly Delivered. 7 King Street VITest^ Torontoi 201 f I • SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN f -AND- All Points North and East in Ontario — AND— NIAGARA FALLS. BUFFALO. NEW YORK, BOSTON, Philadelphia, Washington, Pittsburgh, Erie, Cleveland, Cincinnati, and all Points South of the Lakes. NIAGARA NAVIGATION COMPANY "CHICORA" Leaves Yonge Street Wharf, Toronto, daily (except Sundays) at 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. for Niagara and Lewiston ; coming north, leaves Lewiston (Eastern time) 10 a.m. and 5.30 p.m. and Niagara- on-the-Lake half an hour later, making close connec- tions with the New York Central and Michigan Central Railways. Through Tickets to all points East and West. For tickets and all information, apply at office on steamer or to all agents on railways connecting with Buffalo. BARLOW CUMBELAND, Ticket Agent. 36 Tonge St. TORONTO. JOHN FOY, Manager, Toronto. i t 4S>* When ffotng to the Thouiand Islands or St. Lanr- rence Rapids, or to Niagara Fills, do not flail to see the Historic Niagara RlTer. 209 ITe-^ Tork Central -AND- Hudson River Railroad. THE FAVOURITE ROUTE FOR TOURISTS Solid trains with luxurious Parlour and Sleeping Cars from Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls and Bufifalo to NEW YORK AND BOSTON. THE NEW YORK CENTRAL affords its patrons the best accommodation and the finest scenery on the American Continent, embracing iews en route of the Niagara River and Falls, The Beaotlfttl Mohawk Yallejf. and the Picturesque and Historic Hudson. i^ THE ONLY 4-f RICK BMLBOM IH THE WORLD»)) Having two tracks for freight traffic and two tracks exclusively for passenger busi- ness, thus ensuring PERFECT SAFETY and a certainty of arrival at desti- nation ON TIME. It is also the only line having a DEPOT IN NEW YORK CITY, thus,'4ving its patrons the inconvenience of being transferred to another state by ferry boat. For any information not obtainable from nearest ticket agent, call on or ad- dress. D. M. KENDEIOK, Oen. Passenffer Agent. Od. Central Pepot, New Tork. EDSON J. WEEKS, Oen. Agent Pass. Dept.. No. 1, Excbange St., BuflUo. ao8 ml il I The Grandest Scenery in America IS ON THE jlOlCiji gjiOIlE, L£I(E glJPEI^IO]^ -AND— OOLLINGWOOD LINE. Cakada Tbansit Co. (Limited.) ' TUESDA.YS AJS[T> FEIDA^YS, On arrival of Morning Trains of the Northern and North-Western Kailway from HAMILTON AND TORONTO. S.8. CAIHPAIVA, Fast Express Steamer, 1500 tons, Iron, Clyde-built, Twin Screw, calls at Meaford, Owen Sound, Bruce Mines, St. Mary's River, Sault, Port Arthur and Duluth direct. S.S. €ITT OF OWEIV SOIJIVD, 900 Tons. Meaford, Owen Sound, Killamey, North Channel Ports, Bruce Mines, St. Mary's River, Sault, Michipicoten Island, and around North Shore, Lake Superior, Port Arthur and Duluth. 4^ Passengers can go by one Steamer and return by the other, thus making complete tour. SUMMER EXCURSIONS. Very low Round Trip Excursion Tickets, all around the Lakes, in- cluding Meals and Staterooms. i^g Through and Return Tickets can be purchased from all Agents Cana- dian Pacific, Grand Trunk, and Northern and North-Western Railways. JAS. NEIL, Collingwood. T. MAITLAND, Owen Sonnd. R. £. MITCHELL, Port Arthur. J. T. ROSE, Dulatb. BARLOW CUMBERLAND, Gensral Agent, 35 Tonge St., Toronto. ao4 p- J A CONTINUOUS CHAIN OF INT£i!EST EXISTS AlONO The Grand Manitoulin Channel, THE GREAT NORTHERN TRANSIT CO. (Limited.) Royal Hail Line. CoUingwood and Sault Ste. Marie. SS Pacific, Oapt Campbell. SS Atlantic, Oapt- Foote- SS Northern Belle, Oapt- Barrett- The new Palace Steamers Pacific and Atlantic leave Collingwood WEDIVESDATS AND SATURDAYS, On arrival of morning trains of Northern and North-Western Railways from Hamilton and Toronto, calling at Meaford, Owen Sound, Wiarton, thence connecting with Grand Trunk Bailway to Killaruey, Manitowaning, Little Cur- rent, La Cloche, Spanish River, and all the Inner Ports in The Qreat North Channel, St. Joseph's Island, St. Mary's River, Sault Ste. Marie. G^MACKINAO EXOURSIONS.^^ During the Summer season the Steamers continue their trip round to the far-famed Island of Mackinac, giving sufficient time for Excursionists to visit the many points of beauty and interest. The cabins are wide, lofty, and every effort used to entertain the Travelling Public with both comfort and hospitality. PARRY ISL.A1VD ARCHIPBLAOO. S.S. Northern Bellk leaves Collingwood Mondays and Thursdays, 1 p.m., for Parry Sound, passing through all the Islands. THOS. LONG, Secretary, ooLLmawooD- CHAS. CAMERON, Btanager, OOLLINOWOOD. 206 -th:e- Northern &North-Western Ry IS THB QBBAT AND RVNNINO TO THE FAR-FAMED MUSEOEA DISTBICT, The Sportsman's Paradise and the Free Grant Lands of Ontario. Fast Trains Daily from Toronto and Hamilton, connecting with Steamers of the Muslcoka Navigation Company for all Points on the Lakes. Parlour Cars. Fishing, Hunting, Camping/ Deliglitful Summer Re- sort for Families, First-Class Hotels at Low Rates. VWVV'WVt'W.VWV^'VX'VVV^XXN'XA.'O For a CHEAP TRIP and SOLID COMFORT take the Which connects at CoUinfiTWOOd and Penetan- guishene with Steamers for Grand and Pic- turesque Resorts of the Oeorffian Bay, Lakes Huron and Superior. TOURISTS' RATES.— Tourists' or Sportsmen's Tickets are good to stop over at any point north of Barrie, and return up till close of Navigation. Camp equipage, stores and dogs are carried free when accompanied by owners. JBi^gage checked to principal points i lakes. For Tickets, Bate^ Time Tables, etc., apply to Agents at all principal Ticket Offices in Canada or United States, or to SAMUEL BARKER, Oen. Manager, Toronto, ROBERT QUINN, Om. Patt. Agent, Toronto, BARLOW CUMBERLAND, Tiektt Agent, S6 Yonge St., Toronto. 206 HUSKOKA & NIPISSIN6 NM. GO. DAILY PASSENGER STEAMERS Upon the Lakes of Muskoka, between Qravenhurst, (on the N. & N.W. Railway), Bracebridgre, Beaumaris, Bala, Port- Oarlinff, "Windermere, Port Sandfleld, Bosseau and Port Oookbum, &'o. Upon the Upper Ma^anetawan Waters, between Buck's Falls on the N. & P.J. Railway), Ma^anetewan Village, Depot Farms and Ah-Mio Harbour. Upon Lake Nipissinsr, between North Bay, (upon the O. P. Railway), Oallander, Nipissinff Villase, Sco. Ihe Host Attractive and Popular Resorts in America. EXCURSION TICKETS, Good for Thirty or more days, to be had in the principal cities and towns of Canada and the United States. SPECIAL. STEAMERS, 1VICEL.Y FITTED IIP FOR THE USE OF PRITATE PARTIES, To be had at moderate rates. Good Hotel accommodation aboands throughout the Lake Dlitricts at moderate rates. ROBT. QUINN, A. P. COCKBURN, Gen. Pass. Agent ilen. Manager N. ft N. W. Railways. H. ft N. Nav. Co'y. TORONTO TICKET A0BNOY at B. Cumbbblahd's, 86 Yonge St 207 HUDSON RIVER BY DAYLIGHT —VIA THB— D-A. IjIZSTE Of Palace Steamers on the Hudson River —AND THE- Hew YoPlj GentM \ pnd^on I^iVer" \\, Leave Albany §.30 a.m., Arriire at New York ft. 30 p.m.^ Leave New York (Sunday excepted), Vestry St. Pier, 8.40 a.m., 22nd St. Pier, N. B., 9 a.m., (making principal landings) arriving at Albany (foot Hamilton St.). 6.10 p.m. Trains from Utlca, Oeneva, Niagara Falltr, Buffalo, Lewiston, Toronto, Cleve- land. Chicago, Alexandria Bay and the Thousand Islands, reach ALBANY in time to connect with tlie Morning Boat for New Yoric, and Koing North Trains leave after arrival of Boat. Bertlis in Sleeping Cars can be secured on the Steamer. Be §ure and Secure Tickets via tliis Route. Dining Rooms on main deck, a la carte, open from 7 ».m. Drawing Rooms for Parties. C. T. VAN SANTVOORD, ) VESTRY 8TKEET PIEIK, ( C. R. VANBENTHUYSEN Gen'l Manager. New York City. ( Gen'l Ticket Agent. PEOPL.E^S Li DREW, NEW YORK TO ALBANY. - Oapt. S. J. Roe. | ST. JOHN, Oapt. Thos. Post* FROM PIER 41, NORTH RIVER, South Side of Canal Street, near Jersey City Ferry, Debrosses Street, AT 6.00 p.ni. Connecting at Albant, except Sunday, with trains of the New York Central for the West, and with trains for Saratoga and all the summer resorts of Lake George and Lake Champlain. ALBANY TO NEW YORK. ST. JOHN, Oapt. Thos. Post. ! DREW, - Oapt. S. J. Roe. LEAVE ALBANY AT 8.00 P.M. On arrival of trains from the NORTH and WEST, chansro from cars to Boat. Baggage transferred FREE between N. T. Central B.R. and Steamers at Albany. TICKETS and STATEROOMS secured by telegraph and telephone in Albany, at the Office, Steamboat Square, and tickets for sale at aU the principal railroad ticket offices in the EAST, NORTH and SOUTH. J. H. AT.T.ATR'ri. Qen. Ticket Agent. M. B. WATERS, Oen. Pass. Agent j B. 0. SHAFFER, Agent, Albany. 208 Summit House and Island Park, Port €ockburn$ Lake Joseph, Sluskoka. — 3roz% — FAMILIES. TOURISTSahdSPORTSMEN. ' This fauourite house has been enlarged this season, making it the largest hotel in Musiiolia ; is beautifully situated at the head of Lake Joseph (the prettiest of the Muskoka Lakes); commands fine lake and forest views ; daily steamer, post and telegraph offices in house. EXCEL.L.ENT BJLACK AND ROCK BASS," PICKEREL AND SALmON TROUT FISHIIVO. HAMILTON FRASER, - Proprietor. XAKES OF MITSMOMA 9 Boats, Yachts, Canoes, Tents for Hire. TOUEISTS AND CAMPING PARTIES Supplied at Moderate Bates. Boats Forwarded to any Point Desired. A Qood supply is kept by the undersigned at Port Oarlinsr and Windermere as well as Rosseau, where all applioati( is should be sent. OASS, FADSLSS AITS B0WL0CE3 KEPT FOB SALE. HENRY DITCH BURN, Boat Builder, Rosseau 209 " :: fVi APLEHVRST LAKE ROSSEA U. ^ Th}" hotel has juat been erected regardless of expense, with a view to the comfort of the summer touriats, and is oharminorlv oituated ou one of the most ro- mantic HpotH on theHe waters. A first cla^s table will be kept and every i>o8sible amusement for the guests. A daily mail will he brought to the house and constant communication kept by ferry with RoBseau, which is three-quarters of a mile dis- tant. The Hteamboat calls daily, leaving guests right at their destination. A fleet of boats will be kept at the house, which is surrounded by a charming grove of silver birch, ashen, and evergreen. PARTIES WHO DESIRB TO SPEND A PLEASANT 8UUMEB WITH PLENTY OF BOATING, FISHING, BATHING Etc, will fiad this resort one of the most comfortable and commodious on this beautiful chain cf lakes. J. P. BROTWrW, Propp. 1869 ESTABLISH :D 1809. SEWELL BROS., Grocers and Italian Warehousemen, DiPOBTEas or Fine Wines, English and French Fancy Groceries AND DBALVr . KINDS OF TOUR Ju'^- UPPLIBS, A JAMES ST., HAMILTON, OANADA. Intending: Tourists and Campinir Parties to our Northern Lakes and other parts of West- em Canada, during' the cominx summer will find it to their advantage to purchase their supplies from us. Send for catalogue and prices. All orders by mail will receive prompt and careful attention. Merchants Line. MONTREAL, TORONTO, CLEVELAND, CHICAGO. UPPER CABIN STEAMERS Armenia, Cuba and California. 210 These Steamers have magnificent full length cabind, and are el^jjantiy fitted up, and have a 1 the comforts and convenienc^H of a first- class hotel. State-rooms are all furnished with woven wire niattr. sses. making the most luxuriously comfortable bed. They will ply regularly between MONTREAL & CHICAGO calling at all piiocipal way-ports, during the seas'm of navigation, passiig through the beautiful Scenery of the Thousand Islands, calling at TORONTO f very THURSDAY at 10 a.m., goinir east, and .30 pm., going west. Berths can be secured fn advance bj' applying HAOARTY A CO., S6 King St. East, Toronto. B. Ci;]IIBERI.A]yD, 35 Yonge St., Toronto. Or to Lake Bosseau. THE NEW HOTEL At the Head of the Lake and near the Shadow River. SprctsI Knles Made for Fnmllles. Correspondence Solicited. J. P. BROWN, Proprietor. 211 MUSKOKA. LAKES. n:|i i^' vnptt ]§omt ENOCH OOX, Proprietor. Terms, $1.50 Per "Day. Special Terms for Families. The Hotel stands at the junction of Lakes Eosseau and Joseph, commands a fine view of both lakes ; can accommodate over one hundred guests ; roomy piazzas extend around the house. An excellent table is also set at this house and is one of its leading features, and no pains will be spared by the proprietor to make the stay of guests at Prospect Hcose pleasant in every respect. Gentlemen visiting the Lakes, accompanied by their families, wiU find Pr pect House a very desirable house to stay at. Ladies and young people can here indulge in boatiiig without the least danger, as it is always free from rough water. A WINE 8A1VDY BEACil FOR BATHINO. It is well noted for its The ste&m yacht " Sunbeam " makes daily trips from the Hotel during the en- tire ser\son. Post ice on the premises ; daily mail. Fr«OSPECT HOUSE, in the fall, is a favourite resort for sportsmen. Guides and hounds kept. 212 f Girt iairini iuminer ^^treol, CHERRV OROVE. VANDERBURGH HOUSE. Tourists will not find flies here at any season of the year, making a very desirable place in the early part of Summer for Tourists wishing to spend the most desirable part of the season in pure air. THE flOTURESQUB STEAM LAUNCH A great favourite with American and Canadian tourists is owned by the Proprietor of the House ; the " Kate " has been refitted with new engines, and is the fastest Yacht on these Lakes, and may be hired on reasonable terms to touch at all points of interest. Building Material delivered to any part of Lake by Contract. Address all communications to O. W. VANDBRBURQH. STRATTON HOUSE, This Hotel is delightfully situated at the junction of Indian River and Lake Rosseau. Passengers from Toronto and Hamilton arrive here at from 4 to 5 p.m. the same day. A very convenient stopping place. Guests patronizing the house will find it as comfortable as any Hotel on the Lakes, and their wants promptly attended to. Accommodation for 50 people. The rooms are large and airy, and a liberal table is a leading feature of the House. The surrounding scenery being fine, artiste will find full scope for their pencils. Sportsmen will have some of the best bass fishing to be had on these waters, as Lake Rosseau and Muskoka, as well as Silver Lake are within very easy distance of the House. A commodious enclobed 'Bathing House for Visitors. Lawn Tennis Ground. A superior class of Boats on hand for hire by the day or week. Terms for Board, from $1.26 per day. -Special terms by the week or month. JOHN FBASEB, Proprietor. 213 II H I ROSSEAU. Good Accommodation for TouriiU. n&ST <1LASS TABLE, LABQE ROOMS, BATH ROOMS, ftc BillardRcom and Roller Skating Rink. JOHN MONTEITH, Propr. Craigielea House, LAKE JOSEPH. This house has been improved and refitted since last sea- son and visitors will find comfortable quarters and some of the Best Fishing in the District Close to the entrance to Little Lake Joseph. JOHN C. WALLS, Froprlotor. PORT CARLING POgf-OFFieE ^fOI^E -- FOLL SUPPLY OF— Dry 6oods,Boots & Shoes, Hardware FRESH GROCERIES AND PROVISIONS. OAUPlNa PARTIR8 AND TOURISTS WILL FIND Fishing Tackle, Butter, Eggs, Fresh Bread always on hand. CiKPEHS, TOURISTS, SPORTSIfilt —00 TO- JORDAN'S Greneral Stove^ BOSSEAU, roR nUiing Me, Tents, Coal Oil Store: AND ALL SUPPLIES. TENTS FOR HIRE. -NEW- SAW and PLANINU MILL. PBOMPT ATTENTION GIVBN TO BUSINESS. W. HANNA & 00. The undersigned nas erected a new saw and planin§r n>ill near Craigielea, at the en* trance to Litile Lake Joseph, where he will keep a supply of all kinds of rough and dressed LUMBER AHD SHINGES. Buildinsr Contracts Taken SSTIUATES FORMISHED. THOMAS WATERS, Craigielea P.O., Lake Joseph. AH-MIC HARBOUR, Cue of the hest locations for Sportsmen and tourists in Pcry Sound Tistrict ; can reach it from '"aron, the same day by Gravenhurst and Jurk's Falls, down the Maganetewan River into Ah-Mio Lake ; good accommodation for travellers or tourists ; the best Hunting and Fishing in the district ; boats and livery on hand ; charges moderate ; ma 1 three times a week ; steamboat lands at the door ; goat's milk kept for sickly children and adults, which is highly recommended. JOHN CROSWELL, Prop'R, Ah'Mic Harbour, P.O., Huskoka. 214 PORT CARLING. -GO TO- JOS. S. WALLZS' General Meroliaiit FOR Ilrj U, Groceries, Boots & Shoes, HARDWARE. Lumber, Timber and Shingles. PLANING /;N0 matching A SPECIALTY. BUILDERS' SUPPLIES. Communications bj' letter promptly answered. PORT OARLINQ. ClIFEB!; Aig TOIRISTS- SUPPLIES. DEALER IN GOOD FBESH GEOOERIES — AND— PROVISIONS, OONFEOTIONEEY, FISHING TACKLE. — AMO— DRY GOODS — AKD— BOOTS & SHOES. Canned Ctoods of Every Description. FREDERICK D. STUBBS, ^: 9 Opposite Head of Port Carling River, Lake Rosseau. This new Hotel commands extensive viewg over the greater portion of Lake Rosseau, both east and west, including Windermere. Good Bathing. Steamboat Wharf. Boats can be had on application. Terms from $1.26 per day. Special Bates to PamUies. JOSEPH M. TOBIN, - Proprietor, 216 THE BELVIDEBE HOTEL PARRY SOUND. This Hotel is open during the Summer Season to re- ceive guests. The Hotel occupies a beautiful and com- manding position on a height of land overlooking the waters and numerous islands of Parry Sound. The air is pure and the scenery beautiful. The numerous is- lands and channels are very picturesque and afford excellent opportunities for boating, camping and fishing. RICHARD GODOLPHIN, Land and Estate £geiit, Auctioneer, CoiiYeyaiicer, COMMISSIONER FOR TAKING AFFIDAVITS IN H. C. J. HUNTSVILLE, - ■ - - Ontario'. 216 NEAR POKT OABLINO. R. G. PENSON, - Proprietor. Picturesquely Situated. Good Fishing, Boats, etc., etc. Daily Mail. Steamboat Oalla TERMS VERY MODERATE. FOR PARTICULARS APPLY TO R. G. PENSON, PORT CARLING. CLEVELAND'S LAKE ROSSEAU, MUSKOKA. Parties visiting Muskoka will find thib a most pleasant and comfortable summer resort. Every attention paid to* the com- fort of guests. Good Bathing and Fish- ing. Daily Steamboat. G. 3. MINETT. BOATS AT REASONABLE RATES. HUNTSVILLE. DOMINION HOTEL. Toiirlsti and the Travelling: Publilc entertained in a manner unequalled outride Toronto. Fishing and Shooting. Table and Wines first-rate. Good fStabling accommoda- tion. Five minutes' u^alk from Railivay Depot of Northern and Pacific Junction. Terms Moderate. JAME^ W, JACOBS, Proprietor. 217 BEAUMARIS HOTEL Tondern Island. Good Fishing, Boating and Bathing ; Billiard Boom, Bowling Alley ; Lawn Tennis and Croquet Ground. BOATS AlTD @UIBES FOE BIBS. Board $1.50 to $2.00 Per Day. SPECIAL RATES MADE WITH FAMILIES. Business men Joining their families by the Saturday express trains arrive at Beaumaris early Saturday afternoon, before tea time, and do not leave until after usual breakfast on Monday mominsr, srivinsr ample time for a pleasant rest. EDWARD PROWSE, Proprietor. 218 LAKE ROSSBAU. fe,«i 9<^ '9 Sltnated on the Staorei of LAKE ROSSEAU, MUSKOKA. Improvements constantly being made with the view of adding to the comfort and pleasure of its guests. For description of surroundings, see page 121 of Guide. TERMS :— from $1.26 to $1.60 PER DAY. SPECIAL RATES TO FAMILIES. THOICAS AZTZEIT, - Proprietor. E -^ TT S "V I Xi L E - ^ JORDAN KEELER, Proprietor. Tourists can enjoy unrivalled scenery on "Lake of Bays." Two first-class steamboats ply on its waters during season ; rare sport for Speckled Trout in this region ; the neighbouring woods abound in Deer and Partridge ; ample accommoda- tion ; an excellent table ; every attention to guests. (ERECTED 1884.) Port Arthur, Canada. THE FINEST MOTEL W WESTEIN CANADA. Th« Canadian Pacific Trains east and west stop here 30 minutes for diim«r. F. S. WILEY, Manager. 219 '? OOLLINGWOOD, ONT. This Hotel oommands a flno view of the OoUingwood Harbour and Mountain, renderinar it a pleasant resort to Tourists, to whom the best of atten- tion is paid. Free 'Bus to and from all Trains and Boats. Telephone Communication with all parts of the town. » JOHN ROW^Li^ISTD, OElS^TRA.L HOTEL, GOLLINGWOOD, ONT. CM 1 CD ^ Telephone Commimication witb all parts of the town. THOMAS COLL.INS, - - Proprietor. 220 I PAUL'S HOTEL MEAFORD. TERMS, $ ] .50 per day. Special Rates for Families. Pleasant Terandaiis and Gardens on tlie River Rank. tREE 'BUS TO ALL TRAINS & BOATS. HES. S. FATTL. M&M p MEAFORD, ONT. RATES, $1.00 per day. SPECIAIi RATES given for Famlliei hj the Week. •:o; Boats can be hired at reasonable Bates. PLENTY OF FRESH FISH AND FRESH AIR. -:o:- JUST THE PLACE TO SPEND A QUIET HOLIDAY. JAMES NOBLE, PROPRIETOR. 221 FISHING TACKLE. Bods. »^-^ " 'aSp-" ^ - »•" 'i™-.. Lines, Flies, Hooks, Baits, Reels, Needles and Smallwares. Toronto Warehouse. ALLGOGK, LAIGHT & WESTWOOD, RBDDITOH, ENGLAND, and 6 Wellington street West, Toronto, Ontario. ^tiit ^^OKlt ^^^'9- B. WESTWOOD, fiesident Partner. N.B. -Pishing Rods & Tackle made on the pre- mises. 222 MMk COR. TONOE and FRONT 8T8., TORONTO, ONT. ED. H. ED3ALL, Manager. THOS. TAYLOR, Propr. H. G. EDSALL, Clerk. RATES, $2.00 PER DAY And graded according to rooms. Special Rates to Theatbioal People akd the Commercial Trade. This favourite old hosteller has just undergone a thorough course of renovat- ing, remodeling and refitting throughout, and now stauda second to no $2.00 per day house in the Dominion. The cuisine will be found equal to that of any hotel in the Q'zaen City, and neither pains nor expense are spared in seeing that guests are properly cared for. The AuKRiOAN is the only hotel in Toronto running Free 'Buss to and from all trains, steamboats, etc., and it is safe to say that guests once stopping there will not fail to do so again. MMYSMM W^WBMf OOB. KINO- AND YORK STREETS, TORONTO. §itaated in the baslnees portion of the City. Five minutei "vraiic fk'om the Union Depots Street Cars pass the door to all parts. . I'jiE BE^l' $1.50 Pep Day jlOlJgE Ijl ZK^K^H. SPECIAL ATTENTION TO TOURISTS. J. J. JAMESON, 223 Proprietor. li. TOI^ONTO. REMODELLED AND REFURNJSHED. NEW PLUMBIH& THEOUaSOUT. THE MOST OOKPLETB, LCZURIOVB JlVJ> UBESAUT HANAOBD HOTEL IN ONTARIO. Immtmitjr from noxious* ufoi^^^ uud malaria guaranteed hv tiie most perfect system o{ ventilti'^ou traps, Vkd Uiorongn plumbing known to 8»mt»fy NcieuQe. MARK H. IRISH. ' • PROPmrroR. -11