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Chalmers, C. Bryson, B. Dawson, R. & A. Miller. Three Rivers, George Stobbs. Quebec, p. Sinclair. Sherbrooke, W. Brooks. Bytown, A. Bry- son. Brockville, W. Buell. Perth, J. Allan. Kingston, Ramsay, Armour & Co. Belleville, J. Harrison. Toronto, ScoBiE & Balfour, H. Rowsell, and T. Maclear. Hamilton, M. Mackendrick. Niagara, J. Simpson. Lon- don, C. \V., T. Craig. New York, G. P. Putnam & J. Dis- turnell. 1849. (D^!M^[D)[I^[N1 ©ttllQIQlE [BOOK. THE NIACJAKA RIVEK, which conveys the waters of Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, is about thirty-four miles in length. At its entrance on the left appear the remains of Fort Erie, which waa destroyed during th« American War ; and about a mile below stands the village of Waterloo. Between it and Black Rock, a village directly opposite on the American side, a steam-ferry-boat constantly plies. Here the river is about a mile wide. About three-and-a-half miles below is Grand Island, belonging to the Americans, aud bearing splendid timber. It is about nine miles long by seven in its greatest width. At its eastern extremity is White Haven, whence there is a ferry lo Tonawanda, where the Erie Canal reaches the Niagara and skirts it onward to Buffalo. A little to the N. W. of this island lies Navy Island, far inferior in size and richness of soil. During the late insurrection William Lyon M^Kenzie issued his proclamations, as Provisional President of Canada, from the latter island, and a party of rebels and American sympathizers took possession of it. Thither the American steamboat Caroline was employed to convey ammuriition and stores from Schlosser Landing on the American side. From this place she was cut out (in Dec. 1837), set on fire, and sent over the Falls about two-and-a-half miles below. This was effected by Captain Drew and a party of Volunteers by order of Col. M*Nab, who was then commanding the British Militia at the opposite village of Chippewa. At this place the Welland River falls into the Nia- gara. Chippewa is very advantageously situated for ship-build- ing, and many vessels of large tonnage for the Upper Lakes have been built here by the Niagara Harbour and Dock Company. Hence 4 steamboat plies during the season to Buffalo. Here navigation CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. n I- ■ ^ ends, and even the Canadian boatmen dare not venture beyond. A little below, the river contracts suddenly to less than a mile, and the current rapidly increases from three to eight miles. We shall now present our readers with a fe\v paragraphs from Roi/s History of Canada, descriptive of the world-renowned Falls of Niagara and their surrounding scenery : ** Whilst travelling over the few intervening miles before reach- ing the Falls, you can, by looking upwards, sec the calm waters in the distance, whilst nearer they swell, and foam, and recoil, and seem to be gathering up all their force for the mighty leap they arc about to make. Mrs. Jameson, when speaking of them, says in her own beautiful marmer, * The whole mighty river comes rushing over the brow of a hill, and, as you look up at it, seems as if coming down to overwhelm you ; then meeting with the rocks as it pours down the declivity, it boils and frets like the breakers of the Ocean. Hugo mounds of water, smooth, transparent, and gleaming like an emerald, rise up and bound over some impediment, then break into silver foam, which leaps into the air in the most graceful and fantastic forms.* " The Horseshoe or Canadian Fall is not quite circular, but is marked by projections and indentations which give amazing variety of form and action to the mighty torrent. There it falls in one dense mass of green water, calm, unbroken, and resistless ; here it is broken into drops, and falls like a shower of diamonds, sparkling in the sun, and at times it is so light and foaming that it is driven up again by the currents of air ascending from the deep below, where all is agitation and foam. ** Goat or Iris Island, which divides, and perhaps adds to the sub- limity of, the Falls, is three hundred and thirty yards wide, and covered with vegetation. The American Fall, which is formed by the east branch of the river, is smaller than the British, and at first sight has a plain and uniform aspect. This, however, vanishes as you come near, and, though it does not subdue the mind as the Canadian one does, it fills you with a solemn and delightful sense of grant'eur and simplicity. It falls upwards of two hundred feet, and is about twenty feet wide at the point of fall, spreading itself like a fan in falling. ire beyond. A a mile, and the aragraphs from renowned Falls 3 before reach- in waters in the il, and seem to y are about to s in her own shing over the >ming down to ')ars down the )cean. Hugo ean emerald, ik into silver and fantastic ircular, but is izing variety in one dense J here it is sparkling in is driven up below, where 1 come near, one does, it id simplicity. ty feet wide CANADIAN GUIDB BOOR. 3 ** An ingenious American has thrown a curious wooden bridge across this Fall to Goat Island, which you cross only a very few yards above the crest of the cataract. Passing by it, and crossing the island, you reach the extremity of the British Fall on its eastern side. Here a piece of timber projects about twelve feet over the abyss, on which you can stand safeily, and view the waters as they rush by, whilst the spray dashes over you, and your frail support quivers under your feet. Here you may follow the course of the waters as they roll from the rude confusion below you, and spread themselves out into bright, curling, foaming green and white waves. To some persons nothing at the Falls appears so beautiful as the columns of mist which soar from the foaming abyss, and shroud the broad front of the great flood, whilst here and there rainbows peep out from the mysterious curtain. " At the foot of the Canadian Fall, there is a ledge of rock, which leads into a cavern behind the sheet of waters, called * the Cavern of the Winds. " It is in the form of a pointed arch, the span on the left hand being composed of rolling and dark water, and that on the right of dark rocks. It is fifty or sixty feet large, and the obscurity that surrounds it, together with the strong wind which blows the spray and water all over you, render this rather a difficult undertaking, especially for young persons. *' Within a few minutes' walk of this lovely scene arc to be found all the bustle and activity of life On the American side are hotels and mills of every description, and a busy town called Manchester, through which passes the railroad that connects it with Lockport and Buffalo. On the Canadian side, too, several mills are built on the edge of the beautiful rapids, large and elegant hotels are erected, and a railroad is in operation from Chippewa to Quecnston Heights. "A little below the Falls the Niagara resumes its usual soil and gentle beauty. The banks here are very high and beautifully wooded. About four miles below, the river has formed a circular excavation called ' the Whirlpool.' The rapid current here sweeps wildly past the sides of the high and perpendicular banks ; and in its course the dead bodies or trees, that come with its reach, are carried with a quivering circular motion round and round this dismal spot. The ( { k- 4 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOR. rocks are steep, and no boat dares approach it, so that whatever gets into the current must there remain until decomposed, or broken to pieces by the action of the water. Having made this extraordinary circuit, the river regains its proper course and rushes between two ])rccipices, which are not more than nine hundred feel apart. " Seven miles below the Falls the country on the Canadian side suddenly rises into abrupt and 61cvatcd ridges, called Queenston Heights, and supposed to have been the banks of the river, and * the place of the Falls' in former ages. During the war a large body of American troops was driven down this steep precipice, and nearly all perished in the river. The monument erected to the memory of the brave General Brock, who fell here, lies in ruins, having been blown up by one of the disaffected in 1838. At the foot of the hill is Queenston, a romantic looking village, where the Niagara again becomes navigable. On the American side, opposite to Queenston, stands the pretty town of Lcwiston. A few miles below is Youngs* town, an inconsiderable place ; and at the mouth of the river is the | quiet town of Niagara with its four thousand people. Fort Missis- sagua guards the river on the Canadian side, and on the opposite - shore the Americans have a strong stone fort, called Fort Niagara. The banks of this river are very pleasing, and the water of a pecu* liarly beautiful colour." In connection with the above extract we subjoin a very few par- ticulars. On the Canadian side the principal hotels are the Clifton House and the Pavilion Hotel ; and parties, wishful to enjoy the magnificent scenery for a few weeks, can readily procure accommo- dation in private boarding-houses. On the American side there are numerou? hotels, the principal of ^vhich is the Cataract House, which generally overflows with visitants during the season. Here are large grist, paper, and timber mills. In Goat Island near the steps, called the Biddle Staircase after an individual of that name who appropriated a sum for their construction, the celebrated, or notori- ously fool-hardy, Sam Patch made two successful leaps from a plat' form, erected at the water's edge and sustained from the bank above, the height of ninety»seven feet, in the presence of a vast concourse of enthusiastic spectators, This same individujil perished in leaping over the G( worthy numcn sands h Troy, Mr. N under ed to b( escape, panioiis spark h Philadc His fir went u asccndi observe As he ^ get on 5 surges I frightfu Rugg, pany vi [placed jlhey w on the- ped to I slipped 1 fifty fe I happen scende fallen reache dying. by, « the fa thence at whatever gcta d, or broken to lis extraordinary OS between two t apart. c Canadian side lied Queenston river, and * the a large body of ', and nearly all memory of the ing been blown t of the hill is Niagara again to Queenston, low is Youngs- the river is the Fort Missis- n the opposite Fort Niagara. ter of a pecu* I very few par- ire the Clifton! 1 to enjoy the j :ure accommo- side there are Ltaract House, I season. Here) sland near the j that name who ed, or notori- ts from a plat' e bank above, it concourse of | n leaping over CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. « the Genesee Falls at Rochester in the State of New York. — It \a worthy of rem ark that Ihe first fatal accident that has occurred in the numerous situations of considerable risk, where thousands upon thou^ sands have been exposed, was in the case of Dr. Hungcrfurd of West Troy, N. Y. State, in May of 1839. Wliile he and his fellow-traveller, Mr. Nile of Columbus, Ohio, accompanied by a guide, were passing under Hog's Back Point, the air above them was suddenly discover- ed to be filled with falling earth and stone. In springing to their escape, the unfortunate Dr. was struck to the ground ; and his com- panions, on removing him to a more secure spot, found that thc'vital spark had ilcd. — On the 16th of August, 1844, a Mr. Thompson, of Philadelphia, visited tlie Falls, and took rooms at the Clifton House. His first visit was to Table Rock, when he was one of a party that went under tlie slieet of water. While the rest of the party were ascending the bank towards the staircase on their return, he was observed to go down to the water's edge and s^at himself on a rock. As he was not seen thereafter, it is supposed that, in attempting to get on a rock at a little distance from the shore, between which surges occasionally pass with much violence, he was swept into the frightful current and perished. — On the 24th of August, 1844, a Miss Rugg, of Lancaster, Massachusetts, arrived at the Falls in com- pany with an elderly gentleman of Detroit, in whose care she was placed to accompany her on a visit to a sister living in Detroit. As Ihey were passing near the bank about fifty rods below the Museum on the Canadian side. Miss Rugg left the gentleman's arm, and step- ped to the edge to pluck some evergreens. In doing so, the earth slipped from under her, and she was precipitated one hundred and fifty feet upon a ledge of rocks. A Dr. Sturgis of New York, who happened to be in the Museum t the time, and several others de- scended the staircase at Table Rock, and, after clambering over rocks, fallen cedars, and tangled underbrush for nearly a quarter of a mile, reached the fair sufferer, strange to say, still alive, but apparently dying. On being bled, she so far rallied as to say to those standing by, " Pick me up." By this time a boat had been brought near to the fatal spot, in which she was conveyed to the ferry-landing, and thence to the Clifton House. She lived three hours after the acci- A2 { C i\ i) CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. •lent, and retained her reason to the last, frequenlly exclaiming, *< What will my poor mother say !" The sorrowing };uardian took the body to IJnHulo, and thence hy steamboat t«j Detroit. — The first bridj^e from the main siiore to tiie island was constructed in 1817, and was carried away by the ice in the ensninjj; s|»rinj>'. In 1818 a bridp;e was constructed, where Hath Ishmd 13ri(l}j;(>. now stands, by the Hon. Augustus Porter and General P. B. Porter, brothers, the |)ro|)rictor3 of the inland. In the spring of 1831) its timbers were examined and found to be in a decayed condition ; and during the summer of the same year the present bridge was c(instructed at o cost of X750. The projecting platform at Table Point, from which the visitor can in perfect safety gaze on " Niagara's spray" with its perpendicular cataract of one hundred and sixty-four feet almost beneath his feet, was finished in the season of 1844. The Suspension Bridge is unquestionably as stupendous and sublime a work of art as any en tiiis Continent. Its span is cigLi hundred feet ; heiglit from the water, two hundred and thirty feet ; the depth of water, two hundred and fifty feet. '1 he height of the stone tower is sixty-eight feet, and of the wor)den, fifty. The num- ber of cables for bridge; is sixteen ; of strands in each cable, six hun- dred; of strands in the ferry cable, thirty -seven, the dianieter of which is seven-eighths of an inch. The ultimate tension is six thous- and five hundred tons, and the capacity of the bridge, five hundred. A passage across is thrillingly exciting. In December of 1848 the Suspension Bridge Companies agreeu, after a long pending contro- versy, to give Mr. Ellet, the Engineer, the sum of 12,000 dollars in full of all demands, each party paying its own costs. It is understood that arrangements arc in progress for making another Suspension Bridge over the Niagara at Quecnston. The location is just above the point where the fi^rry-boats cross. The water space is about six hundred feet, and tiiat between the towers, wliicli are to be ol' stone, is about eight Imndred and fifty feet. The traveller will be gratified in no ordinary degree by viewing the Falls not only in the small ferry-boat, which is rowed across by a single Indian 'of long experience, but also in the steam-boat which ascends at stated hours to within a few yards of the descending mass lly exclaiming, ^uariliiin took roit. — Thr first uctccl in 1817, g. In 1818 a now ntjinds, by r, brothers, the s timbers uero and (hiring the Mistrueted at a int, from whicii spray" with its ur feet almosf tupendous and i span is cigLi iid thirty feet ; ! height of the y. The num- able, six hun- e diameter of )n is six thous- fiv(! hundred. of 1818 the Tiding contro- 000 dollars in is understood r Suspension is just above lace is about arc to be ol' CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. t amidst the dense foam « e boiling cnhlron.—Few travellers, who pass a Sabbath here, fail to visit the village of Tuflcarf)ra Indians, distant about ten miles on the Lockport rr)ad. They are a remnant )f a once powerful tribe from North Carolina, and number about five imndred. A venerable chief, nho lu Id a c".ra. This fort was built in 1 685 by the Marquis de Denonv^ille, French Governor of Canada, but was soon razed to the ground by the pov/crfui Iroquois, who had been incensed by his treacherous conduct. In 1725 the French built on the same site another fort, which surrendered to the British and Indian forces under Sir Wm. Johnson in 1759. In 1796 it was surrendered to the United States by treaty. In 1 8 1 3 it was retaken, but surrendered to the States at the close of the war in 1815. The latest transaction of interest in connection with this ancient fortress, was the confine- ment of William Morgan within its magazine for a few days, after having been kidnapped from Caaandaigua jail (in New York State,) for revealing the secrets of Masonry. Since hi? imprisonment therein this notorious individual has not been seen. — It is worthy of noting that Lake Erie is five h indred and sixty-five feet above tje level of the Sea, and three hundrsd and thirty-four above Lake Ontario, The fall is thus divided j in the sixteen miles from Lake Erie to the itapids, the fall does not exceed cwenty feet ; in one quarter of a mile of the Rapids, forty feet ; at the Falls, one bundled and sixty- four feet j and in the seven miles thence to Queenston or Lewiston, one hun- dred and one feet. — The country on both sides of the river is beauti- ful, and capable of producing rich crops of wheat, if well cultivated. It has been remarked with regret that there has been a disposition on the part of some farmers to wear out their farms, although tlie recent settlement of English and Scotch farmers has produced a beneficial CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. Capital j and erable trade* 3s a Member an establish* is proved by :h they have landSj and in red and fifty. . &c., of four e. At Fort lany of Rifles ng Aroyrican ihs Marquis )on razed to incensed by the same site ndian forces rrendered to t surrendered t transaction I the confine* iv days, after York State,) iment therein hy of noting t.ie level of itario. The Erie to the rter of a mile ty-four feet ; n, one hun- ger is beauti- II cultivated, isposition on ;h tlie recent a beneficial change in this respect among the Anterican, native Canadian, and also not a few Pennsylvanian Dutch farmers, by whom the District was settled ufter the American War of Independence. Extensive orchards are abundant, and large qnc^ntities of apples, peaches, and cider are annually shipped at Niagara. / LAKE ONTARIO, along the British or American side of which the tourist will now proceed according to his selection of a steamboat at Queenston or Lewiston, is about one hundred and eighty miles long by about sixt} in its greatest breadth. It is two hundred and thirty-four feet above the Atlantic, is so deep that in many places it exceeds one hun- dred fathoms, and is never frozen over. It is the safest of the three Lakes for navigation, as it has several excellent harbours, and numerous bays. On the British side the usual route is straight across from the mouth of the Niagara to Toronto, a distance of thirty-six miles ; although there is an opportunity of visiting iLhe west- ern extremity of the Lake, called Burlington Bay, afforded by a daily steamboat. This is distant about forty-five miles. About midway is the opening of the Welland Canal at Port Dalhousie. — On the Bouth side of the Bay at the western extremity lies the rapidly im- proving town of Hamilton, which was bid out in 1813 by a person of that name, and now contains a population upwards of ten thou- sand. From being the principal market for the Western merchants it Leems destined to become second to no city in Upper Canada. An ample supply of excellent freestone and lime^Lone behind the city affords the means of erecting handsome buildings, of which the mer- chants now generally avail themselves ; and considerable quantities are exported to Toronto and other places on the Lake. It is expected that it will soon be furnished with gas and water-^ , orks. From the Bay is seen Dundurn, the handsome mansion of Sir Allan ]Vl*Nab, lateiy Speaker of the House of Assembly. It returns one M.P.P. Three newspapers are published. It is worthy of notice that behind the city rise the Burlington Heights, a continuation of the ridge from Q'leenston Heights, and that the same ridge stretches along gradually iawards^till it recedes about twenty miles between Toronto and Hol-» V iO CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. I ; land Landing, separating the streams falling into Lake Simcoe from those that fall into Lake Ontario, and, as it advances eastwards, again upproaches the Lake towards the Bay of Quinte. This formation has evidently at one time formed the boundary of the Lake, the same being ▼isible on the American side. — There is a communication between the rising manufacturing town of Dundas and the western end of Bur- lington Bay by means of a canal, five miles in length, called the Desjardins Canal after a Frenchman who commenced the work. The prosperity of both places may be dated since the cutting of the Bur- lington Canal through the sandy beach that formed an impassable bar between the Lake and the Bay. — Betwixt Hamilton and Toronto there are seen in succession the towns or villages of Wellington Square, Oakville, and Port Credit. In the neighbourhood of the last is an Indian reserve, belonging to the Missisagua Indians, ex- tending for one mile on each side of the river Credit. Their village was built by Government in 1825. They have a Methodist chapel and a school attached, besides a warehouse at the Port. It is grati- fying to mention that the Indians here possess XI 350 of the stock of the company that built the harbour at an expense of £2500, which might be so improved as to be rendered capable of affording refuge Tor any number of ships. u TORONTO 18 the most populous city in Upper Canada, being upwards of twenty thousand. Thf ite was selected by Governor. Simcoe in 1793, when only two Indian families rfesided on it. It was at first called York, but afterwards it was altered to the sonorous Indian name of Toronto or " The Place o^* Meeting." It was the Capital of the Up- per Province from 1797 to 1841, when Lord Sydenham removed the Seat of Government to Kingston. It was apprehended that the removal would have caused a decline in its prosperity ; but the energies of the citizen* were roused, their trade has greatly increased, ftnd the city itself is now well drained and paved, and supplied with gas and water. Of late years many handsome buildings have been erected, such as Osgoode Hall, St. George's Church, tho Banks, the Lunatic Asylum, *,he Catholic Cathedral, and the Lyceum. » 4 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 11 :oe from Is, again ition haB ne being ween the of Bur- lUed the rk. The the Bur- sable bar Toronto cllington (d of the ians, ex- iir village st chapel t is grati- ihe stock 00, which jg refuge of twenty 793, when lied York, name of of the Up- 1 removed d that the ; but the increased, pplied with iings have hurch, the le Lyceum. The city labours under the disadvantage of having no quarries, so that the private buildings are ot brick. Property has increased greatly in value, and the rents of houses in good situations for busi- ness are upwards of JE150 to £200. The principal public buildings are the Jail at the cast end, the Court-house, the old Market-house, the new City Hall, the Upper Canada College, the old Parliament Buildings (partly occupied by the officials of King's College) and the Hospital, the last two of which lie towards the west end on the Bay. The stranger should visit the extensive and tastefully laid-out grounds of King's College, Avhich will be a splendid edifice, shouW it ever be completed in the costly style which the fmished portion presents as a specimen. This University is empowered to grant degrees in Arts and Sciences. The Free Church Presbyterians have a Theological Semi- nary and Academy, and the Congregationalists an Academy. The Lu- natic Asylum and Observatory are worthy of a visit. There is a great number of institutions and societies for benevolent, religious, scien- tific, economical, and other objects. Ten newspapers and three monthly periodicals are published. The tonnage of steamboats owned here is about four thousand tons ; and the yearly value of the Exports is estimated at £200,000. Toronto sends two members to the House of Assembly. — In coasting from Toronto to Ccbourg. a distance of seventy-two miles, the villages or towns of Picker- ing, Windsor Harbour, Darlington and Port Hope, are passed in succession, all of which are well supplied with mills, and export several hundred thousand feet of lumber annually. Cobourg is well laid-out, and has a flourishing appearance. The merchants have established a Board of Trade. AbouJ. a mile and a half to the west stand the Jail and Court-house, a handsome stone building. The principal building is Victoria College, which was constituted as such by Act of Parliament in 1842 with power to confer degrees in Arts and Sciences. It was originally founded by the VVesleyan Confer- ence, but is unsectarian in its character. It is chiefly supported by a Legislative grant of £500 per annum, and by tuition-^ees. It cost about £10,000, and contains Lecture -rooms. Chapel, Library, and Reading-room, which is, perhaps, overstocked with Canadian news- papers liberally forwarded by the Editors. It is commonly attended i > •I,', » 12 CANADIAN OUIDE 3I00K. H I' i by about fifty pupils, the majority of whom are boarders. There is a large cloth factory which, when in full operation, will employ about two hundred hands, and will be capable of turning out eight hundred and fifty yards per day. Three newspapers are published, the population is about five thousand, and the annual exports are estimated at £30,000. — It is worthy of remark that from Cobourg to Kingston, a distance of one hundred and five miles, a half is formed by the south shore of the fertile peninsula of Prince Edward, which is remarkably indented by the waters of the Bay of Quinte on the north, at the head of which the Trent is discharged after a winding course of one hundred miles from Rice Lake. Belleville, at the mouth of the Trent, is a thriving town with about three thousand five hundred of population, and two weekly newspapers. Picton, the District town, is at the east end of the peninsula. On the top of a mountain in this peninsula is a remarkable lake, whose depth cannot be fathomed. At Tyendenaga on the north-east of this bay there is a very interesting settlement of Mohawk Indians, who separated from their nation in the State of New York about 1784. lu 1793 they received from the Crown a large grant of land. In 1820 they surrendered nearly one-third in exchange for an annuity of i)4o0. In 1835 they made a further surrender in trust to be disposed of for* their benefit ; so that their possessions do not now exceed sixteen thou- sand eight hundred acres. They live for the most part on detached farms scattered over the reserve. They have about fifteen hundred acres cleared, and about five hundred under tillage. There haye been some instances of successful industry among them. A chief, named Hill, left by will at his death a few years ago considerable possessions to particular menibers of his family, who are at this day in full enjoyment of them. One of his sons, who is Catechist to the Missionary, recently built a wharf and commenced business as a general trader among his brethren in partnership with a white man. They possess stock and agricultural imphments corresponding to their progress in husbandry. They were Christians long before their arrival in Canada, and were presented with a service of plate for communion as far back as the reign of Queen Anne. This th6y look upon with great respect, and the chief, in whose custody it re* mams, u attached become a comm( out of tl the Soci( present ( iiave bee They su rents, w about fo thropist proprietf Edward Amherst 1760 wh granted Mountcf the tenai here tha the close of the U tunate c ally in a and atfo and sufii rence ab was fori Empire received years ; twenty- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 13 mains, is always ivell pleased to exhibit it to the traveller. They arc attached to the Church of England, and, their place of worship having become too small for the congregation, they have recently erected a commodious stone church, the expense of which has been defrayed out of their own funds. A missionary was first appointed in 1810 by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. Their present excellent missionary reports that during his incumbency they have been making a gradual advance in morals, piety, and industry. They support a school-master out of the produce of certain small rents, which they receive and manage themselves. Their number is about four hundred. It is highly gratifying to the Christian philan- thropist to mark such progress among the descendants of the ancient proprietors of the American soil. — Between the Peninsula of Prince Edward and Kingston lies Amheust Island, so called after Lord Amherst, one of the Generals in command of the British forces in 1760 when Canada was transferred to Britain. It was originally granted to Sir John Johnson for military services. The Earl of jVlountcashel owns the principal part. The land is very good, and the tenants are in comfortable circumstances. — It is worth rem.arking here that the real settlement of Upper Canada took place in 1783 at the close of the first American war. At that time many inhabitant* of the United States, who had adhered to Britain during tiie unfor> tunate contest, sought refuge within Canada. As they were gener- ally in a very destitute state, the Government treated them liberally, and afforded them the utmost possible compensation for their losses and sufferings. With this view the -.vhole land along the St. I^aw- fence above the French settlements 1o, and around, the Bay orQuinKv was formed into townships, 'i he settlers were termed the United Kmpire {U E.) Loyalists, and besides an ample supply of land received farming utensils, building materials, and subsistence for two years ; and every member of their families, on attaining the ag« of twenty-one, had a donation of two hundred acres. M 14 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 'I \; M ij '■ KINGSTON IS built on the site of the old Fort Cataraqui, subsequently called Fort Frontenac in honour of the Count de Frontenac, one of the I'reneh Viceroys. Its advantageous position at the outlet of Lake Ontario into the St. Lawrence has raised it to considerable impor- tance as an entrepot between the two Provinces. To accommodate this trade, wharfs and spacious warehouses have been provided. The streets are regularly arranged, and the houses arc chiefly built of stone, of which there is an abundant supply. About half a mile distant is a low peninsula ending in Point Frederick, which with the other parallel one, terminating in Point Henry, encloses Navy Bay, the depot for the maritime armament formed during the late war. On an eminence of the periinsula is Fort Henry, which commands the entrance to the l^ake. Point Frederick is conriected with the town by a wooden bridge across the Cataraqui Bay, near which are the Marine Barracks. '1 iC town has recently been put into a state of complete defence by the erection of large substantial martello towers^ In 1841 Lord Sydenham removed the Seat of Government thither from Toronto, when the inhabitants, indulging the hope that it would continue to be the Capital, went to considerable expense in making improvements. The removal of the Seat of (jiovernment to Montreal in 1844 proved for a time a severe shock to its prospec- tive prosperity, from which it is rapidly recovering. Its commercial impo'taiice is enhanced by being the port of the Uidcau Canal, which communicates with the Ottava at Bytown, and thus opens up so much of the back country. The principal building is the Market- House so called, although only a portion of it is occupied as such. It is the finest and most substantial building in Upper Canada, and cost £25,000. In the frf)nt are several public offices, and above are the Town- Hall and a room opposite, of the same size, capable of ac- commodating five hundred persons. From the gallery surrounding tjie interior of the dome a very extensive view is commanded. The Presbyterians in connection with the Church of Scotland have a Collegiate Institution, called Queen's College and University of Kingston. The Hospital is supported partly by Government and partly by voluntary contributions The Hotel Dieu is attended by CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 15 . 't-L called of the i( Lake impor- imodate [1. The built of a mile with the ivy Bay, ate war. ands the he town are the state of D towers t thither ; that it J expense k'ernment prospec- nmercial al, which ns up so Market- as such, ada, and ibove are )le of ac- rounding ;d. The ind have ersity of (lent and ended by Sisters of Charity, and the Roman Catholic Cathedral is of recent erection. There are two Marine Railways, one for hauling out m vessels of three hundred tons, and the other for hauling out river boats and barges. At Portsmouth Harbour, a little to the west, lies the Provincial Penitentiary, a visit to which, and inspection of the internal arrangements, will not disappoint the traveller. It is a large stone building, surrounded by a high and most substantial stone wall with towers at the corners. The arrangements are so complete that escape seems unler any circumstances impracticable. Blacksmiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, &c. , are busily em- ployed in different workshops. The silent system is pursued except in necessary intercommunication at work. The inmates in general display a contented and subdued appearance. Perseverance in good behaviour entitles in remarkable cases to a discharge some years be- fore the expiration of the term of confinement. It seems that there are not a few instances of convicts becoming inmates but a short time after receiving Iheir liberty ; so irresistible is the force of habit, when again subjected to temptation. The cells are so arranged that each keeper has a great number of prisoners, apart from each other, completely under his eye in his round,and can at v\\ times ascertain, without being perceived, Avhat is going on. Near the Penitentiary are baths and mineral springs, which hnve been much frequented. In the neighbourhood is an extensive saleratus factory in connection with a brewery. The proprietor offers to supply two thousand lbs. per day. Five weekly newspapers are published. Kingston returns one M. P. P. The population, including two villages, is about twelve thousand. The tonnage of steamers and schooners owned here is upwards of seven thousand. Before descending the St. Lawrence and bidding farewell to the Ontario, for the sake of the tourist who may prefer to steam along the American or Southern shore of the Lake, we shall furnish a few particulars. From the outlet of the Niagara at the Fort of ihat name to the boundary line of 45°, the entire littoral is in the State of New York, and comprises in succession the counties of Niagara, Orleans, Monroe, Wayne, the northern corner of Cayuga, Oswego, Jefferson, and St. Lawrence. The last along its entire western i 'I, • 'f.> ■'y:y ■'i h '■ 1^ 16. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. frontier, and a half of Jefferson County arc bounded by the River. From Fort Niagara to the mouth of the Genesee River in Monroe County, a distance of about eighty-five miles, t'le toast presents an almost undeviating level under the primeval brush-wood, relieved by a few scattered clearances. ,...,.' KOCHESTER, Should the tourist on ascending the Genesee to Cartilage, which is the port of Rochester, resolve upon visiting this city, he will find enough to engage and gratify his curiosity till he resume his journey by the next steamer. The road for a mile from Carthage has been excavated to the depth of from sixty to eighty feet, and in some parts overhangs the rugged banks of the river to an equal height, so that the stranger on his return, as he is borne along in the omnibus, from its peculiar construction making a regular alternation of jolts from side to side, notwithsland* ing the romantic scenery cannot help yielding to an uncomfortable impression of danger. An Englishman in 1810, having penetrated many miles into the bush, was struck with the water advantages which he Genesee afforded, and selected for his loghouse a portion of the locality which the wide-spreading Rochester now fills-up. Some idea may be formed of its astonishing progress from the fact that the population, which in 1825 was 5,271, and in 1840 20,191, amounts now to about 35,000. This large commercial and manu-* facturing city owes its greatness mainly to the " water privileges" which the proprietors on the banks of the Genesee here possess. For a considerable way above the Upper Falls the banks are on both sides surmounted by a great variety of mills. Its proximity to Lake Ontario, and the passage of the Erie Canal through its principal streets, contribute materially to its prosperity. A frontage on the viver fetches a high price, as from the nature of the situation a supply of water from the canal or race can in many cases be rendered available twice or thrice. The aqueduct, by means of which the Canal crosses the river, is eight hundred and four feet long, contains ten acres, and is finished off in a most substantial manner. The vast produce of the Genesee Valley, which stretches sixty or seventy ,^^*«* CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 17 mileS; and is unsurpassed in fertility even on this Continent, is con- veyed thither by the Genesee Canal, and thence to Albany, &c. The passage of the great Eric Hailroad has recently contributed its share. The Upper Falls are about one hundred feet in height, and, though much diminished in cttect by buildings, still present a magnificent vie\v. In their waters the foolhardy Satn Patch, buoyed up by one successful plunge in them on a previous cccasion, as well as by two at Niagara Falls, in making a second leap, perished in presence of a vast concourse of spectators. The body submerged, and was never discovered. The streets of Rochester are wide, aud well laid out, containing many first-^rate private and public buildings. Of these we may mention the court-house, jail, arcade, and observatory, upwards of a dozen churches, and about six hotels, &c. &c. The Mount Hope Cemetery in the vicinity vies in extent and appropriate* ness of design and scenery with those of Greenwood near Brooklyn and Laurel Hill at Philadelphia. Before closing this notice we shall subjoin a statement of some particulars as to the llouring^mills, which are regarded as the largest in the worldi A few years ago (1835) they amounted to twenty-one, and the capital invested in them exceeded half a million of dollars. When in full operation, they require daily twenty thousand bushels of wheat, and arc capable of manufacturing five thousand barrels per day. So effective is the machinery connected with several runs of stones that one can grind, bolt, and pack one hundred bushels of flour daily. Besides the wheat drawn f r m the rich wheat-growing valley of the Genesee and the shores of Erie and Ontario, some millers imported from Canada (in 1835) about one hundred thousand bushels. Such is the high character of the " liochester brands", that, besides the large ship- ments to foreign ports, they may be seen at Montreal and Quebec, New Orleans, New York, and Boston. The water-power of the two falls is estimated as equal to one thousand nine hundred and twenty steam-engines of twenty horse power. Calculated according to the cost of steam power in England, the annual value of thi« water power would amount to nearly ten millions of dollars. A large capital is also invested in cotton and woollen mills, iron* B2 18 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. f works, tanneries, &,c. &c. — Oswego, the principal commercial port on the American side of the Kake, is pleasantly situated at the mouth of the river of that name. The principal part of the town is on the western bank, and has a neat and stirring appearance. On the opposite bunk are some large mills, and here terminates the Oswego Canal from Syracuse, distatit about thirty>eight miles. About half«-way betwixt Carthage and Oswego is Great Sodus Bay. — At the eastern extremity of the; Lake, on the south side of Black River Bay, lies in a very sheltered situation Sackett*s Harbour. This was the navul station of the United States on the Lake during the last war with Great Britain. In May, 1813, Sir George Prevost effected a landing with one thousand men, but hastily re»embarkr^d without accomplishing liis purpose. The Navy Yard is a conspicu** ous object from the landing. — About twenty miles north of Sackett's Harbour, French Creek enters the St. Lawrence. Hence, in the beginning of November 18)3, General Wilkinson embarked at the head of seven thousand men with the view of descending the St. Lawrence and attacking Montreal, expecting to be reinforced by troops from Flattsburg. Six days thereafter an engagement took place near Williamsburgh on the Canadian shore, when the Ameri" cans were worsted. On the arrival of the army at St. Regis, disap^ pointed in his expectation of a rc'inforcement. General Wilkinson retired to French Mills, and encamped there for the winter. This place was subsequently named Fort Covington, in memory of General Covington who fell at the battle of Williamsburg. Opposite Kimijston lies a large island, called Wolfe's Island. It is well settled, having upwards of six thousand acres under cultivation. The stream, which in the course of a few miles issues from the Lake, is now for the first time called the St. Law- rence ; and its channel so oxpinds, and becomes so full of islands, that it obtains the name of the " Lake ok the Thousand Isles," These islands present every imaginable shape, size, and appearance- some barely visible, others covering many acres. As one is convey- ed along the unruilled surface with a cloudless sky overhead, survey- ing from the steamer's deck the ever varying combinations of wood rocks, and water, he imagines that he is passing through some de- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 19 lightful fairy-land. He finds himself sometimes enclosed within a narrow channel, shortly discovers openings 'as of noble rivers, and then seems to be on the bosom of a spacious lake. — Shortly after entering this picturesque scene, sixteen miles from Kingston, is the village of Gananoque, and on emerging from it is Brockvill':, one of the prettiest towns in Canada. Most of the houses and public build- ings are constructed of limestone, on a bed of which the town is built. In the neighbourhood is granite, but not used from its hardness to be worked and consequent expensiveiiess. A good road is con- structed thence to Perth, which is about forty miles north west. Op- posite the town is a rocky islet, surmounted by a blockhouse, where a few Kiflcmen are stationed. The population is upwards of two thousand with two weekly newspapers. It returns a member to the House of Assembly. — Five miles east lies the small village of Mait- land, built on the site of an old French fortification. Seven miles below lies Prescott,^ called after a I icutcnnnt Governor of that name, and rendered memorable during the late rebellion. Before the opening of the Rideau Canal it was a place of considerable trade. A company of Rifles and a few Artillerymen are stationed here. The population is two thousand A steam-ferry boat plies to the American town of Ogdensburgh, which lies direcily opposite. The river is about a mile and a half broad here. — Between Prescott and Dickenson's Landing at the head of the Cornwall Canal, a distance of thirty-eight miles, are in succession the villages of Ma- tilda, Mariatown, Chrysler's, and iMouUnette, and in succession, at nearly equal distances of seven or eight miles, are the Galoppes Rap- ids, the Point Iroquois Rapids, the Rapide Flat Rapids, and the Farren's Point Rapids, in which the current varies from six to ten miles per hour. Canals of a few miles in length have been con- structed that trade-vessels may pass. An island shortly obstruct* the current, producing what is called the " Long Sault" i. e. Long Leap. The stream rushes through a narrow passage on each side, and hurries on the bark with great velocity ; and the two currentSj, meeting at the lower end of the island, dart most furiously against each other, and form what is called the *' Big Pitch." To avoid these rapids on the upward passage. Government has constructed, at 1 i V >' f I- V- 20 CANADIAN GUIDE DOOK. a cost of nearly sixty thousaml poundH, u maj^iiiliccnt canal, called the Cornwall Canal, which wiis ()|K;netl in 1813. It is clevcn-and- a^half-miles loni;, and has seven locks. — The town of Cornwall is well laid out, and has a pleasant situation. It returns a Member to the House of Assembly, has a population of nearly two thousand, and a newspaper. It is worth tlie tourist's while to avail himself of the opportunity allbrdcd for S"'"g ''H t'hore and insptctlnjj; the work- manship of llu! canal. The French inhiibitants formerly called this place " Fointe Maline" from the dilliculty thry experienced in as- cending this portion of the river with tiicir bateuux. — Opposite to Cornwall lies the Indian village of St. Rk.gis, where line 4;j^ strikes the St. Lawrence, and forms tiie boundary between Lower Canada and the State of New York, intersecting", also, the tract of land which is the propinty of this body ef Iroquois, numbering in all about one thousand, and about equally British and American. There is a large stone church, which was erected upwards of fifty years ago at llusir own expense. The (jlovernment maintains a French Canadian missionary, who resides pcrnjanently at the village, and devotes his whole time to ihc tribe. A great portion of the acrvice consists of singing, of ivhich the Indians arc passionately fond. The men prfjcure a precarious subsistence chiefly by hunting, and the women employ themselves in making mitts and moccassing from the skins of animals that have been killed during the winter, and in manufacturing splint baskets and brooms. — After passing the Canal the St. Lawnnice widens into one (;f those beautiful expanses, called Lakes, which tend not a little to impart vuicty to the course ofthismajest'.c river Lakk St. Fkancis isforty miles long. About halfway down the lake on the left hand stands the village of Lancas- ter,close on the boundary line between the \\ est and East Provinces. Here the Loyal Clengary Uighlaiiders raised a large raim or pile of stone (a memorial occasionally erected for warriors of old in Scot" land) in honour of Sir John Lolbcjrne, now Lord Scaton, formerly Governor General. Fhe Kapios. At the extremity of the lake com- mences a succession of very formidable rapids, called the Coteau du Lac, the Cedars or the -plit Rock, and the Cascades. The "voyage down this sixteen miles' decl.vity of boiling waters, often presenting, CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 21 called n-and' ^ALL is Tiber to )usandj nsj.lf ol" ij work- IU(l this il in us- ositc to ' strikes Cuimda of land ; ifi all ricrican. of fifty itains a village, of the iionately hunting, >ccassins winter, sing the xpanses, le course ;. About Lancas- -•ovinces. II or pile in Scot- formerly ike com- Dteau du 2 \oyage isenting, as it were, sca-wavea lashed by tempest nous winds under a burninc; and unclouded »ky, is perhaps as exciting as this or any country offers. The landscape along the shore is in some parts romantic, exhibiting a few villag(!.s with handsome churches and parsonages and mills, with an uninterrupted succession of cottages on the water's edge. The excitement is enhanced hy a sense of risk accompanying the vessel as she sueeps with the utmost speed close past islands and rocks, whilst her straight courtse in the channel is maintained by the steady exertions of eight voyageurs at the wheel and ruddc. , A con•^ siderable island, called Cjrande Isle, lies a little below the east end of the Lake. In order to open iip a communication between this Lake and the next expanse, called Lake St. Louis, which is twenty- four miles in length, the Boauharnois Canal has been constructed by Government at a co«t of Jt 162,281. It is cleven-and-a-quarter miles long, and has nine locks. — The St. Lawrence, on emerging from the Cascades, receives a great influx of waters from the Ottawa? and their combined waters form the expanse of Lake St. Louis, at the western extremity of wliich is the considerable island of Isle Perrot, and along the north shore is the Island of Montreal, which is above thirty miles in length. For some distance below the junc- tion the brown waters of the Ottawa roll on unmixed with the clear stream of the St. Lawrence. At the outlet of the Lake on the right is the Iroquois settlement of Caughnawaga or " The Village of the Rapids," in allusion to those that lie a little below. It was granted for their beneiit by Louis XIV. in 1780, and enlarged by Governor Frontenac. These Indians in summei* chiefly subsist by navi- gating barges and rafts down to Montreal, and in winter by the sale of snow-shoes, moccassins, &c. They are Roman Catholics, and have lately rebuilt a handsome and substantial church. They behaved nobly during the recent disturbances^ and since that period have received special marks of Her Majesty's favour. — On "^ihe left Dank stands Lachine, the central situation of which bids fair to en- sure its growth and prosperity. Here is the residence of Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and of the staff of officers in charge of this, the principal post of the company. Hence emanate the instructions, received from head-quarters in Lon" ?.'• 22 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. I i don, for the different posts throughout the company's extensive terri- tories. Towards the latter end of April in each year a body of the company's people along with experienced voyaaeurs leave this port in large canoes, called maitre-canols, in which their chattels and packages are transported via the Ottawa and a tributary on the left to Lake Nipissing, whence is the descent by the Riviere des Fran^ais into Lake Huron. On reaching Fort William on the banks of Lake Stipcrior the large can :)es give place to others of a much smaller description, constructed for more convenient transhipment across ^he numerous ;70/"/ag"e3 between the different pests of the company. From Lachine th. rail-cars convey the passengers to Montreal, a dis- tance of nine mdcs. During last season the passenger steamers have undertaken the descent ol the Fall of St. Louis or the Lachine Rapids, which present featurcj of excitement and interest even ex- ceeding the Upper Rapids, and to obviate which has been constructed the Lachine Canal at an expense of £'137,000. This port is situated so as to be the central starting place of th*^- steamers for the Upper St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. It is worthy of remark that this village originally received its appellation from the chimerical idea that hence would be afforded a route to China. MONTREATi is situated in Lat. 45|'^ N. and Long. 73^^ W., thus agreeing ex- actly with the cities of Lyons and Venice in Europe in the parallel of latitude, and nearly so with the, city of New York in longitude. In 153.") Jacques Cartier, whilst surveying with delight the magnifi^ cent prospect which tlie brow, of the '•' Mountain" in rear of the modern city conmanded, gave to the elevation, in honour of his royal master, the King of France, the name of Mount Royal. About a century afterwards this name, having undei:gone a not un- usual corruption, was imparted to the French settlement which arose about that period to the west of Ilochelaga, the ancient In- dian village. This city is the Capital of Britisli Nortii America, and the residence of the Governor-General, rif the Commander of the Forces, and of the heads of the various Civil and Military Depart- ment^3 connected Vv'ith the Government. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 23 ^e tcrri- r of the lis port els and the left 'Van^ais of Lake smaller across )mpany. il, a dis- icrshave Lachine jven ex- istructed situated le Upper that this ical idea 2cing ex- 2 parallel )no;itude. magnifi" ir of the ur of his t Royal. I not un- nt which cient In- jrica, and er of the f Depart- It seems proper to premise that Lower Canada is divided into five Districts j three superior, JMontreal, Three Kivers, and Quebec ; and two inferior, St Francis and Gaspe. These are Judicial divi* sions, having Courts of superior and inferior jurisdiction. The Dis- trict of Montreal is intersected by the St. Lawrence, and each por- tion is nearly equal in point of extent, population, and value. The northern portion extends along the Ottawa which forms (he boundar} between Upper and Lower Canada, till it is bounded by Lake Temiscaming ; the southern has for its opposite frontier the northern boundaries of the States of New York and Vermont. The island of Montreal is the largest and most fertile in Canada and is formed by the waters of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence on its northern and southern sides respectively. Its generally level surface is diversified by several gentle ridges called coteaux, while the eminence in rear of the city attains a height cf five hundred aiid i.fty feet. Its lux- uriant production of the choicest fruits and vegctnblts has deservedly earned for it the appellation of the *' Garden of Canada." The island, which in conjunction vith a few islands around it constitutes the County of Montreal and returns a member to Parliament, is divided into ten parishes; whereof that of the City of Montreal com- prises besides the Royalty and the Suburbs the villages of Irlochelaga below the city. Cote des Neiges behind tlic ' Mountain', and St. Henry or the ' Taimcries.' and the iiitci mediate localities. It is worthy of notice that the intrepid dlsco^ercr Cartier for the first time entered Hochelaga, on the 3rd of October, 1535, then a village of Huron Indians, destined, however, to be the nuv;leus of the modern city of Montreal. On the 15th 'jf Auguet, 1642, the day observed by the Romish Church in h.inour of the Asjfumption of the Virgin Mary, the spot destined for the city i\as consecrated with uuff solemnities, commended to tl e protection of the " Queen of Angels," and named Ville Marie. In 1644 the A\holc of this valuable island became by royal grant the property of the St. Sulpicians at Paris, whose founder, the Abbe Queliis, landed wih authority from the Seminary of St. Sulpice. and before 1657 had cleared and settled a large part of the property He founded the Seminary of that name in Montreal, and the luijd of the entire island has been purchased 'Mr- W I' i.J I'': '•'*> 24 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. from that body, or is in the hands of tenants for a stipulated rental. The population of the island is estimated at from sixty-five to seventy thousand souls, of which the city contains about fifty thousand. The relative population of the latter stands nearly thus ; two-tenths are French Canadians; nearly one-tenth, British Canadian; one-and-a* half-tenth, English, Irish, and Scotch ; somewhat less than one half- tenth, Germans, United States, Jkc. For municipal purposes the city is divided into nine Wards, three of which send three rcpresen- tali\es to the Council eat h, and the other six send two each. The corporation is thus composed of twenty-one members, comprehending the Mayor, five Aldermen, and fifteen Councillors. Their labours are subdivided amongst seven ('ommittecs of Finance, Fire, Light, Markets, Police, Hoads, and Waters. The city sends two members to the House of Assembly. We shall now conduct our tourist from Donegana's Hotel, as a convenient starting point for an excursion through the city. The front portion of this large building was occupied as Government House during Lord Sydeitham's administration In 1^46 Ar. Donegana by extensive additional buildings in the rear completed this hotel in a manner n<'t surpassed by any h(/tcl on the American continent, not excepting the celebrated ' Astor-f louse', of IVew York. From its dome a delightful view of the surrounding country is commanded. The Hotel opens upon Notre Dame Street, the priiicipal and most fashicmable. It is worth noticing that the other princi)>al streets run par;:llcl to this, north and south, and are crossed at right angles by .streets running east and west. The streets of the Old City have been named af er a variety of the Saints, whilst the nomenclature in the more modern pari reminds us of Governors Craig, Dorchester, Sher- brooke, ike. On proceeding a little southwards is pcen a low building within a railed parapet, called the Old Government House. This house, which was originally erected by a company of fur- traders, has been partially repaired and modernized, so as to adapt its suite of apartments, along with those in the adjoining buildings, to the services of various Governmental Departments. The (iovernor's presence for the transaction of public business is intimated by the floating of the Union^jack on the flag-staff'. He resides at Monk- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 25 (1 rental, seventy d. The iths are and-a- ne hall- )ses the ;preseii- X. The hending labours , Light, lembers tel, as a 'he front it House nnegana hotel in jutinent, . From manded. nd most rects run nglcs by ave been e in the [3r, Shcr- { a low L House, of fur- to adapt lings, to (vcrnor's I by the t Monk- lands, a small but handsome mansion at the south-eastern base of the Mountain. — By crossing t . street, and passing the Government Garden on the left, the stranger will find himself at the Champ de Mars or Parade Grop.nd, a level space of two hundred and twenty- seven yards by one hundred and fourteen, well adapted for military exercises. Hence there is a fine view of the north-eastern slopes of the Mountain ; and the eye is caught by an airy and commodious building on an elevated site in this direction. — This is the General Hospital, and is well worthy of a visit from the philanthropic or pro- fessional trav^.ller. It is one of the principal ornaments of the city. It is pleasant to reflect that in 1818 the earnest representations of the Ladies^ Benevolent Society (formed expressly for the relief of indigent emigrants, and that personally superintended a soup-kitchen for this purpose^ showing the cases of sick who needed, but could not procure, medical aid, succeeded in engaging the sympathies of the public in behalf of the claims of their Association. In the interval till the opening of the Institution in 1 822, the patients occupied for a year a small house, of four apartments, called the House of Re- covery, and for three years a larger one, of three wards, in Craig Street, Its benevolent purpose is, " the reception and care of dis- eased poor, and others who may not have the means or convenicDcv of being duly cared for, when sick, at their own places of residence." The building is so constructed that each of the two wings has an equal capacity with the centre. The central building and the land belonging to it cost £5856. It would be wrong to omit allusion to the circumstances under which the Richardson Wing was added in 1832. The Honble. John Richardson, a Scotchman, emigrated to the late British Colonies in 1774, and, having come to Canada in 1 787, attained great eminence as a merchant, and by a long career of important public services earned the grateful feelings of his fellow- citizens. To give expression to these in a permanent form, on his demise in 1831, it was resolved to erect a cenotaph to his memory in Christ Church. The sums obtained for the purpose in Montreal, Quebec, Toronto, and London, and elsewhere, so far exceeded the requisite amount for carrying out the object, thatj as the best means C St;, i n {■:■ if . I r 1^. ■ 'ii. 26 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. of combining honour to the departed and utility to the living, the funds were devoted to the erection of this wing, and so commemorate the "worth of the first President of the Hospital, who had so liberally contributed to its foundation and support. The second wing has been erected (1848) from funds left by the late Judge Reid, also a Scotsman, at the disposal of his widow, who made the grant subject to the single condition that a tablet, similar to the one in the north wing, should commemorate the donation. This institution is under excellent management, and has proved highly beneficial to the com- munity. The average scale of In-door and Out-duor patients for several years somewhat exceeds a thousand in each class annually. Medical students on payment of a small fee receive much insight into their profession by attending the practise of the Hospital. The only inadmissible cases are those of advanced stages of pregnancy, insani« ty, and incurable disease. — At the north end of the Parade Ground stands Gosford Street Church, being the Second Congregational or Independent Church ; and at the south-eastern corner stands St. Gabriel Street Church. It was opened in 1792, and for several years was called the Scottish Church, as it was the only one in this Prov- ince in connection with the Established Church of Scotland. It is remarked that the beii in its steeple is the first Protestant bell that sounded in Canada.— It is probable that the two buildings within the enclosure betwixt the Champ de Mars and Notre Dame Street will be soon replaced. The one, whose walls only are standing, was occupied as a Court House since 1800 till it was destroyed by tire in 1845. The other edifice was occupied as the Gaol of the city from 1806 to 1836, when the inmates were transferred to the more com- modious building called the New Gaol, It was afterwards occupied by the Government as Barracks until, in consequence of the de- struction of the Court House by fire, it was selected as a temporary Court House. Here are the Judges' Chambers, the Rooms of the Grand and Petty Juries, the Offices of the Clerks of the Crown and Peace, &c. &c. It might afford an agreeable variety to a stranger to visit the Courts during their ocssion and hear the debates in both languages. It may be mentioned that the Superior Courts have jurisdiction in suits above £20, and the Inferior Courts in suits under that SI only m ceiving Trafalj tion to 1809 th ment, i stone, V and dre are of tl whom t mountei hero in fatal sh( blocks. On the figure the Nil anchors J rel encii the inter mark wl On the I the Nile Trafalgc several stranger an arch- with the was the in 1789, formerlj/ granted majority renderec vicinity. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 27 ingj the smorate iberally ing has lid, also subject le north s under he com- ients for nnually. ight into rhe only J insani- G round ional or ands St. ral years lis Prov- d. It is bell that within the treet will ing, was )y fare in city from ore corn- occupied f the de- emporary ns of the rown and stranger 3s in both irts have iits under ihat sum. — Immediately opposite stands Nelson*s Monument, the only monumental column of a public character in the city. On re- ceiving intelligence of the victory obtained by the British fleet off Trafalgar in October, 1803, several gentlemen entered into a resolu- tion to testify their admiration of the illustrious commander. In 1809 their resolution eventuated in the erection oT this chaste monu- ment, which cost £1300. It is built of the best gray compact lime- stone, which is found is the neighbourhood, is exceedingly durable, and dresses well. The ornaments on the sides of the pedestal, &,c. are of the artificial stone invented by Coade and Sealy of London, by whom they were executed. It is of the Doric order, and is sur- mounted by a statue of the same artificial stone, representing the hero in the attitude in which he was standing when he received the fatal shot. His left arm rests upon the stump of a mast amidst blocks, tackle, &c., as they appear to have fallen from the rigging. On the front side toward the west, the plinth contains an elegant figure of a crocodile in bas-relief, emblematical of the battle of the Nile. The panel on this side is ornamented with cannons, anchors, and other appropriate naval trophies, with a wreath of lau- rel encirling the inscription. The figures on the east side represent the interview between Lord Nelson and the Prince Regent of Den- mark when his Lordship landed after the engagement off Copenhagen. On the north side the sea-piece is intended to designate the battle of the Nile, whilst that on the south side commemorates the battle of Trafalgar. The severity of the climate has gradually mutilated several of the figures. — Pursuing his course a little farther, the stranger will find on his right Christ Church, and on his left witliin an arch- way the Black or Congregational Nunnery. In connection with the former, it may be stated that the Rev. Mr. Delisle, a Swiss, was the first Protestant Episcopal Minister who settled in this city in 1789, and that his congregation for some years occupied a Church, formerly belonging to ihe Jesuits' College, the use of which was granted by Lord Dorchester. As has been the misfortune of a great majority of the public buildings in the city, in 1803 this church was rendered useless for the purposes of worship by fires in the immediate vicinity. Within a few days such measures were adopted as resulted, 28 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, no doubt after many pecuniary embarrassments, in the erection of the present handsome structure in 1814. It is worthy of record here that the congregation was in the meantime accommodated with the use of the Scotch Church. Such accommodation on the part of Itoman Catholics to Protestant congregations under similar circum- stances, and of Protestants of different denominations to each other, is matter of fact in the Ecclesiastical history of the city deserving of honourable mention. The interior of Christ Church presents neat- ness and simplicity of design and execution. The organ, which is a powerful and elegant instrument made by Elliot, of London, was erected in 1816 at an expense of nearly £1600. From the balcony at the base of the spire (two hundred and four feet high) is an exten- sive view of the whole city and circumjacent country. — The Convent oi'the Congregation of Notre Dame, or the Black Nunnery, as it is colloquially called from the black dress worn by the sisters, was founded in 1659. It is composed of a superior and sixty sisters, the most of whom are employed in instructing the pupils in the different branches of female education. The block of very elegant shops and houses to the corner of St. Jean Baptiste Street stands upon the prop- erty of the Nunnery, %vhich besides the chapel and a large garden comprises the entire side of the street just mentioned. We shall afterwards make mention of the enterprising foundress of this estab- blishment. — On the east side of the Place d'Armes or French Square stands the highly imposing front of the Parish Church or Cathedral. From the foundation of Montreal in 1642 to 1672 public worship was performed in a wooden chapel, which in the latter year was succeeded by a more commodious and substantial erection of stone. This »t(X)d quite across the middle of Notre Dame Street, exactly in front of the present magniiicent Cathedral, so that passengers were obliged to pass half round the church on either side. Even this church waa found inadequate for accommodating the rapidly increasing popula- tion, and in 1675 the Church of Bonsecours was opened. These were the first churches of stone erected in the island of Montreal. The present Cathedral was commenced in 1824, and in 1829 was in so forward a state as to be opened for public worship. It is of the lierpendicular style of Gothic architecture of the middle ages^ and> CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 29 1 of the ire that the use )art of ;ircuin- 1 other, ving of ts neat- lich is a )n, was balcony n exten- Convent as it is ITS, was iters, the diflerent [lops and the prop- e garden ^Ve shall lis estat- ih Square athedral. rship was lucceeded le. This y in front 'e obliged lurch was popula- These Montreal. 29 was in is of the Lges^ andj notwithstanding a manifest des^'^uiion of ornament, it is regarded as not inferior to any ecclesiastical str'':cture on the continent of North America in the combination of the grand and simple in architecture. The six towers are so arranged that each flank presents three, and the (east and west ends present two each. The towers i.a front are two hundred and twenty feet high, and strangers usually avail themselves of the magnificent prospect which the southern one affords, and in which is placed the largest bell in America, weighing twenty-nine thou- sand four hundred lbs, or upwards of thirteen tons, aQd cast in Loudon expressly. The interior strikes the spectator more from its vast capacity than otherwise. The ground-floor and two galleries ac- commodate ten thousand sitters in one thousand two hundred "and (forty-four pews. The five public and three private entrances tp the former, and four to the latter, are so arranged that this vast assem- blage can assemble and disperse without disagreeable pressure. The building comprises seven chapels and nine spacious aisles, all of which are visible from the front entrance. The high altar, which is somewhat in the florid style, bears a resemblance to that of St. Peter's at Rome, the pulpit to that of the Cathedral at S.trasburg. The pillars, which support the galleries, are wooden and painteCl' in imitation of clouded Italian or American marble* The organ and painting call for no especial notice. The large figure, occupying a prominemt niche in the centre of the front, is one of the Virgin, to whose protection the edifice is dedicated. The amount laid out in the construction of this ecclesiastical edifice has reached nearly i)100,000, a considerable portion of which remains unimbursed. A night-view from the opposite side of the Square is considered to con- vey to an observer as striking an impression of the imposing magni- tude of the front as any other. 1 he entire space under the Cathedral forms a cemetery in which the more wealthy Catholics are interred. — The handsome and substantial edifice immediately adjoining the Cathedral to the south-west, and which replaces one of the oldest establishments in connection with the Roman Catholic Church in the city, is the Seminary of St. Sulpice. It was founded about 1 657 by the Abbe Quelus, who had been commissioned by the St. Sul- C2 r ■< 30 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, picians at Pari i to erect here an institution on a plan similar to their awn. Here reside the members of the order who are occupied with parochial duties. This body has a College for instruction in all the branches of literary and scientific knowledge. It originally stood in close connection with the Seminary, and received the name of Petite- Seminaire or Little Seminary, The present College, how- ever, including its extensive grounds for exercise and gardens, occu- pies nearly one entire side of College and Foundling Streets, and may gratify the stranger by a visit. Its erection cost upwards of £10,000. It has accommodation for one hundred and sixty resident Pupils, besides apartments for the Director or Principal, four profes- sors, and eight tutors. The philosophical apparatus is extensive and well selected, embracing more recent improvements. The regular course of studies, embracing classics, rhetoric, belles-lettres, math- ematics and ^natural philosophy, lasts eight years. Here also is superintended the preliminary training of the Ecclesiastics who may be induced to devote themselves to the Roman Catholic priesthood. It deserves to be mentioned that at the annual distribution of prizes in tlie end of July the more advanced pupils evince a progress in classics, general literature, and science, which reflect much credit upon their instructors. In immediate connection with the College is a school for instruction of about three hundred junior Pupils in the common branches, conducted by Les Frbres des Ecoles Chretienneti or the Friars of the Christian Schools, The Sulpicians have also established schools in different parts of the Parish. — Two buildirgs of massive construction, belonging to the two oldest Banking Establishments not only of the City but of the Province, occupy the west side of the French Square. The one, surmounted by the large dome, and which is a beautiful specimen of the Corinthian order of architecture, is the Bank of Montreal, and cost in its erection £25,000. This institution was chartered in 1817, has a capital of one million, and has Agencies in the principal towns of the United Province. — The other is the City Bank, presenting an elegant speci- men of the Grecian style of architecture. This was chartered in J833 and has a capital of £300,000.— On the other side of the Montreal Bank is an elegant building, till recently belonging to thig rising CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 31 > their i with all the stood ime of , how- , occu- ts, and ards of esident profes- live and regular i, math- also is rho may esthood. »f prizes gress in h credit College ils in the Uiennes, ave also )uildir5s Banking cupy the the large order of erection :apital of B United iTit spcci- irtered in de of the Dg to this establishment, but now occupied by the Banque du Peuple or People's Bank. Its front is ornamented with four emblematical devices of Agriculture, Manufactures, Arts, and Commerce in bas-relief. Its erection cost upwards of £11,000. It was opened in 1835 and has a capital of £200,000.— A little farther on the opposite side of the street (Great St. James's) is the Bank of British North America. The principal stockholders are in London, where is the head-office. The capital is one million sterling. It has Branches and Agencies in the principal towns of Canada, and in the capitals of the Lower Provinces, besides an Agency in New York. — The New Wesleyan Church in this street is a spacious building, and is regarded as a fine specimen of the Florid Gothic style of architecture of the fourteenth century. It can seat two thousand persons, and cost £12,500. — The Odd Fellows' Hall, the Ottawa Hotel, and the American Pres- byterian Church contribute a due share to the substantial and taste- ful architecture of this superior street. The congrrgationj of thi3 church was organized in 1822. The individuals originally compos- ing it seceded from the St. Andrew's (Scotch Establishment) con- gregation, conceiving themselves aggrieved by certain measures pursued therein. The name assumed intimated their national origin. It was opened for public worship in 1826. — By going a few yards beyond this church the stranger can command a fine view of the well wooded and precipitate portion of the Mountain, and has on the rising foreground St. Patrick's Church to the right, and to the left Zion Church, New St. Andrew's Church, and the Unitarian Church fronting the spectator a few yards to the right of the one just men- tioned. — St. Patrick's, which is in the Gothic style of the fifteenth century, is comfortably seated for nearly five thousand persons. The interior is finished off in a chaste and simple manner, whilst the absence of galleries imparts a light and airy appearance to the lofty walls and ceiling. The spire is two hundred and twenty-five feet high, and is one of the most striking objects to one approaching the city. — The congregation of Zion Church comprises the members of the First Congregational or Independent Church of this city. This body in 1832 did not number above fifteen individuals, when they formed themselves into a Christian Church. A neat place of wor- Hc 'i^- 32 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. ship was opened in 1835, and such was the increase of pewholdera that the present more commodious and handsome structure was completed in 1844. — The Scotch Church in progress of erection if for the accommodation of the congregation under the pastoral care of the Rev. Dr. Mathieson. This congregation since the resignation of the first incumbent in 1824, %vho with the original congregation belonged to the Burgher Seceders in Scotland, has been in con- nection with the Established Church in that country. This church, it is understood, will be after the model of the celebrated Cathedral of Salisbury, which is perhaps the most beautiful example of the ec^piastical architecture of the old country. The tower and spire will together rise to upwards of one hundred and eighty feet. — It is recommended to the tourist now to descend M*Gill Street to the River. On arriving at its intersection by Notre Dame Street, he will discover at a few yards to his left a very antique building, the Recollet Church. When this order was extinguished in Canada, the British Government exchanged the ground, on which their JMonastery stood, and the adjoining lands, for the beautiful Island of St. Helen (which lies opposite the lower portion of the city), then the property of the Hon. Mr. Grant, The Seminary purchased from him the Church, and adjoining buildings, for supplying the large influx of Irish emigrants with a separate place of worship. Here the Irish Catholics continued to worship till the more commodious St. Patrick's Church was opened at the close of 1847. — A few yards south, and on a part of the grounds formerly pertaining to the Recollets, stands St. Paul's Church (in connection with the Scotch Establishment), a chaste building of cut stone with a well finished Gothic front. It was opened for Divine Service in 1834. — A little farther in the same Street (St. Helen, called after the island of that name in consequence of the exchange just alluded to) is the Baptist Chapel, which wis begun and finished for public worship in 1831. It is in connection with the Ottawa Baptist Association. — Towards the eastern extremity of M'Gill Street on the left is a very handsome edifice, formerly occupied as St. Ann's Market, but, upon the occasion of the Seat of Government being transferred from King< ston to this city in 1844, selected as the most eligible for the use of theL view I Mtyle, Hous< adjoiii Sister back t at the was d and ah be enip Icarnin men of part of but sul over ct tics of 1 the first made s( lioned t new poi success( and at three, widow petent mind tc themse and infii requisite was at manage bation ; for recei had left ville eng CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 33 lolders e Tvas ition is al care ;nation igation n con- ihurch, thedral ! of the id spire .—It is to the reet, he uilding, Canada, ;h their sland of A, then jed from ;e influx ,he Irish LOUS St. V yards I to the e Scotch finished -A little sland of x>) is the Drship in iation. — is a very tut, upon )m King- he use of the Logislative Council and House of Assembly, and leased with that view fron. the Corporation. It is fitted up in a neat and appropriate style, and forms upon the whole a tolerably commodious Parliament- House. It orijjinaliy cost upwards of jG17,000. — Immediately adjoining is the Gray Nunnery or General Hospital of the Gray Sisters. This ancient establishment was 'originally founded as far back as 1692 by the charitable exertions of the citizens of Montreal, at the head of whom was M. Charron, a native of Normandy. It was designed as an Asylum for infirm and superannuated persons, and also for orphans in destitute circumstances. These last were to be employed in work suitable to their age, and put in the way of learning a trade. The design was nobly encouraged by the gentle- men of the Seminary, uho granted an extensive lot of ground, on a part of which the present Hospital stands, quite unencumbered, but subject to the simple proviso that, if the establishment should ever cease to exist, the whole should revert to the Ecclesias- tics of the Seminary. Under the prudent direction of M. Charron, the first superior, the institution made rapid progress, having in 1693 made several purchases of real estate, among which may be men- lioned that at Point St. Charles. The managers were invested with new powers under the title of Freres Charrons. Unfortunately his successor proved ill qualified for conducting such an establishment, and at length the entire brotherhood, with the exception of two or three, withdrew. In 1737 a Madame Youville, who had been^lefl a widow at twenty-eight years of age, and ivas possessed of a com- petent fortune, succeeded in influencing a few ladies of congenial mind to form themselves into a Society for irrevocably devoting themselves to acts of charity and other religious duties to the aged and infirm poor. This lady, possessing a rare combination of the requisite qualifications for the superintendence of such a community, was at once recognised as Superior. For several years the excellent management of these sisters had attracted general notice and appro- bation ; and the Seminarists looked to them as the fittest persons for receiving the disorganized and burdened Hospital. The Freres had left it under a debt of more than £2000, which Madame You- ville engaged to discharge, chiefly from her own private funds, and s-\ I <,. H'- 1^- i. I » y> ;»; ^ !{■. 34 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. undertake the re-organization and responsibility, on condition that she should be judicially appointed Manager. Accordingly in 1747 this sisterhood entered upon their arduous enterprise in this new field of labour, in which ihey found four inmates, bringing with them nine of their own poor. In a few years such an amount of success crowned their pious exertions that the original design was so enlarged as to admit the sick and wounded of every age and station. Of these classes there were about one hundred inmates, and in 1755 the premises were much enlarged, the greater part of which was unhappily destroyed by fire in 1765. In a short time it was rebuilt on a more commodious plan, and from time to time material addi- tions have been made, so as to enable tlie Society to extend its bounty to a greater number of foundlings and lunatics. This ex- tended usefulness has been accomplished in a considerable degree through grants from the Legislature and the revenues from the island and Seigniory of Chatcauguay, whose value has of recent years been considerably increased. Before closing this notice it seems just to observe that this Institution has done incalculable service by pro- viding for'a large number of individuals who must have been burden- some to society, while dragging out a miserable existence. The correctness of this statement may be judged from the fact, that there are upwards of one hundred and fifty residents within the walls be- sides several servants and attendants. Hence the tourist should descend to the Wharves, which for extent and solid'uy of construc- tion arc unequalled upon this Continent. The street fronting the river contains several blocks of most substantial warehouses and a few public edifices. — By no means should the stranger omit to visit the Basins of the Lachine Canal at the upper extremity of the wharves. This is one of those Public Works of which Montreal may well be proud. This costly canal was constructed for the purpose of evading the Lachine Rapids (already noticed) and uniting the Lake of St. Louis and the harbour at this city. There is a rise of about forty-six feet. The bridges and locks, built of stone from a quarry near the Indian village of Caughnawaga, are remarkable for solidity and elegance. These will admit sailing vessels of from six to eight hundred tons' burthen j and steamers of a larger class than any CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 35 t that 1747 } nfcw ; with mt of was 80 tation. nl755 :h was rebuilt il addi- cnd its his ex- 5 degree le island it years ems just 1 by pro- bur den - ;e. The lat there vails be- should lonstruc- now in use on the St. Lawrence may pass each other at any portion of the line. It is believed that no caniil structure in the world exceeds in depth and l)readth the Lachine for its length. There is in process of formation at Lachine a spacious harbour by means of running out an embankment of stone, " puddled" in tlie interior, ecverai thousand feet into the Lake, and quarrying the granite bed of the river for the breadth of a hundred feet or more within the line of wall, so as to give vessels a clear chp.iincl into deep water, and a basin for small craft and rafts inside. The continuous alluvial bottom along the entire line, and the escarpment by which it is bounded, intimate that the main flood of the St. Lawrence in former times covered these parts. — It may bo noted here that the wire of the Montreal and Troy Telegraph is carried across the St. Lawrence near the chute of the Lachine Rapids. The breadth of the river here is six thousand three hundred and eighty feet. The wire is supported on two masts, one hundred and fifty feet from the ground, erected on strong scaf- folding in the middle of the river, the one on Alsopp's Island and the other on a submerged rock. Near the Upper Basin there has been recently erected a large flouring establishment, called the City Mills. It ccntains six runs of stones, and can manufacture from five to six hundred barrels of superfine flour per day. The Stores along this Basin are very commodious and capable of receiving a vast amount of produce. In returning along the wharves towards the Barracks, the stranger will pass the Custom-Ilouse, a small but handsome building occupying the centre of the Square to wliich it gives name. It is of the Tuscan order, and its fronts are sur- mounted by triangular pediments. Some idea may be formed of the amount of business done in the Customs here, from the statement that in 1847 one hundred and sixty-two vessels were entered, whose tonnage amounted to forty-one thousand eight hundred and eleven tons. — Proceeding a little northward in St. Paul Street, the stranger will come to the Hotel Dieu Nunnery, the church of which fronts this street. This was the first Religious House formed in the city, having been founded in 1644 by Madame de Bouillon. It is conducted by a superior and thirty-six nuns. Here the dis- eased poor of both sexes have for generations found an asylum# r|' » - -'^ ' * . Li' 4 3G CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. % An air of convenience and neatness pervades all the buildings belonging to this institution. Strangers wishful to see the interior of this, or any of the Nunneries, by making application for permis- sion from the Lady Superior, seldom fail in having their wishes gratified. — A little northward along the River will be found the Bonsccours Market, which for sjiaciousness and conveniency in arrangements is not surpassed on this Continent. Its interior is worthy of a visit. This edifice cost upwards of =£70,000, — In its close vicinity is the Church of Notre Dame de Bonsecours. It was founded in 1658, but in consequence of several obstacles was not finished till 1675. This was the first church built of stone in the island. In 1754 it was consumed by fire, and its re-erection was no^ completed till 1773. The foundress was the celebrated Mar- guerite Bourgeois, a native of Troyes in France. She came to Mon- treal in 1653, and, after a series of obstacles which would have daunted less benevolent minds, and the removal of which she accom- plished by revisiting France and obtaining the authority of Govern- ment, she was enabled to complete this church, and to establish the Congregational Nunnery, already noticed. A little beyond is the Engine-house for forcing up from the River the water for the supply of the city. It is received mto two reservoirs capable of containing about half a million of gallons. — A little farther on are situated the Commissariat Buildings and the Barracks, which from their situation are frequently distinguished as the Quebec Gate Barracks. Under the French this building belonged to a nunnery, but shortly after the conquest, was converted to its present purpose. These barracks were enlarged in 1822, and are capable of containing about one thousand troops. There are other, but not regular, barrack- buildings in this suburb and at the Cross, three miles below. On the beautiful island of St. Helen, which lies opposite and belongs to Government, are permanent barracks, an armoury, magazine, &c. — In returning to hi J hotel, the stranger may pass through Dal- housie Square, the wesi-side of which contains the Quarters of the iMilitary Officers. On the south-west side has been recently erected a massive building of substantial workmanship, including the New Freemasons' Hall and the Theatre, which has been finished off in style n the Pai Cathcd three tl 1836. Previoi under t incumb which ; raised f rear sta chief pu cost abc fourth ii two eel &c. T Instruct and Ma three da by thirty prisoner chapel s that five view of ofthetl seventy- lishmenf a forcii nearly lishmenj is an ur| of the ii to favoi better tj this dire Rope le buildings the interior for permis- their wishes )e found the jvenicncy in s interior is 000.— In its )urs. It was les was not stone in the erection was 3brated Mar- ame to Mon- would have h she accom- y of Govern- estabiish the jeyond is the for the supply of containing e situated the their situation acks. Under ortly after the lese barracks aining about liar, barrack- miles below, e and belongs nagazinej &c. through Dal- larters of tho cently erected ling the New ished off in a CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 37 style not surpassed on this Continent. — A few minutes' walk from the Parade will conduct the stranger to the Bishop's Church or rather Cathedral. It was erected in 1824, and is capable of containing three thousand persons. Montreal was erected into a Bishopric in 1836. J. J. Lartigue was first Roman Catholic Bishop of Montreal. Previously he was Suffragan of the Metropolitan Bishop of Quebec, under the title of Bishop of Telmesse. His successor is the present incumbent, the Right Rev. Ignace Bourget. In place of the Palace, which at present adjoins the Cathedral, contributions are being raised for erecting one oj a larger and more imposing scale. In the rear stands the Nunnciy of the Sisters of Charity. — The Jail is the chief public building towards the northern extremity cf the city. It cost about jG30,000. The building consists of three stories, and a fourth in the centre, besides the basement. This iO'. tains thirty- two cells for solitary confinement, and the kitchens, bath-rooms, &c. The first story contains the Magistrates' or Grand Jury-room, Instruction-room, &c., and sixty-four cells. Besides the Gaoler's and Matron's apartments, the second story contains fifty cells and three day-rooms for prisoners. The third story is entirely occupied by thirty-three bedrooms and three day-rooms for debtors. Female prisoners occupy the cells in the back-wings of each story. The chapel surmounts the centre of the third story. It is so constructed that five classes of prisoners, entering by separate stairs, can sit in view of the pulpit, and are prevented from seeing each other. Each of the three wings has a cistern capable of holding ten hundred and seventy-seven gallons. These three cisterns supply the whole estab- lishment with water, and can be filled in forty minutes by ? ^eans of a forcing-pump, worked by ten of the prisoners, although fixed nearly one hundred feet above the river. We believe that the estab- lishment has not the benefit of a resident chaplain, and that there is an urgent call for improving the moral and religious insi,ruction of the inmates. The present keeper, Mr. ]>'*Ginn, is well entitled to favourable notice here in consideration of his zealous exertions to better the condition of the depraved and wretched indwellers. — In this direction lie the City Gas-works, the St. Mary Foundry, and the Rope Manufactory. Last year (1848) a New City Gas- work with D ■ t 'V |! ; 1^ I ■I •■^ 38 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. premises on an improved and extensive scale was erected in Griffin - town suburb. An understanding has been recently brought about betwixt the stockholders of both companies. The Foundry is in par- ticular noted for the manufacture of steam-boilers of the largest description. In the Ropery every description of cordage is manufac- tured by machinery on a patent method. The quantity of hemp con- sumed is about two hundred tons annually, giving employment to about forty hands. The Walk is twelve hundred feet long, three- fourths of which are two stories high. Russian hemp, imported from England, is used in these ^vorks. Hopes are entertained that the ob«« stacles, which have discouraged the growth and manufacture of hemp in this Lower Province, will be ere Jong removed. Good judges have pronounced the soil and climate well adapted for its cultivation. — The first ships built in Montreal were constructed by Mr. David Munn about 1806 in the ship-yard at the Current St. Mary. According to Mr. Gould's statement, the yearly average of vessels built in the Prov- ince in 1825-6-7-8 was forty-six. The number after that period greatly decreased. In 1829 the yard became the property of Messrs. Shea & Merritt. Under the superintendence of the latter gentleman many large steamers and vessels have been built. — We may here briefly notice a few buildings in a cluster in the centre of the city ; viz., the British and Canadian School, the Friars' School, the Free Church in Cote Street, the Scotch Secession Church and the Jews' Synagogue in Chenneville Street.- -The British and Canadian School Society was instituted in 1822 for promoting the education of the young of the labouring classes of every persuasion. The building was finished in 1827, and is capable of containing about four hundred boys and two hundred and fifty girls. The attendance, however, since the disturbances in 1837-8 has averaged only about two'hun- dred and fifty. The entrance to the class-rooms for each sex is at either extremity. The Friars' School is under the superintendence of the Frercs des Ecoles Chrdicnnes, and is attended by upwards of five hundred pupils, chiefly Canadian. Behind | the school are the buildings occupied by the Friars, who number about twenty-five, and arc distributed daily in superintending not only this central school, but those at the Bishop's or St. James's Church and the French Col- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 30 lege. — The Synagogue is a fine specimen of the Egyptian style of archil octure. It is substa'idally built, and the interior is very hand- somely finished off. Mrs. Frances Michaels contributed £575 to- ivards the defrayment of the expenses. It is the only Synagogue in British North America. — Amongst the Public Institutions we notice the University of M'Gill College, the High School, and the Baptist College. The first was endowed from funds arising from a valuable estate at the base of the Mountain (on part of which the buildings are erected) and the sum of £10,000, bequeathed in 1814 hi trust to The Royal Institution for the Advancement of Learning in Lower Canada by the Hon. James M*Gill, an opulent merchant in this city. For several years the will was con'^cstcd, so that the Governors, who were incorporated in 1821, did not obtain full possession of the prop- erty until 1828. No religious test is imposed upon professors or students. There are three terms, the fee for eacli of which is £3 6s 8d. At present the Medical Staff comprises one Professor, eight Lecturers, and a Demonstrator of Anatomy. Ihe number of students in this department has been on the increase for some years past ; and betwixt a d( zen and a score graduate yearly. Uesides a Professor of Classics there are Lecturers in Botany, Law, French, History and Logic, and Mathematics and Natural Philosophy. The attendance at present holds out better prospects. The Mce-Prmci' pal, the Registrar, &c., and the French Lecturer arc resident within the College. It is to be hoped that this institution may ere long be rendered really beneficial to the youth of the Lower Provhice espe* cially. The College occupies a delightful site, and, when con»pleted according to the plans, will fjrm an architectural ornament to the city. — The High School occupies an airy and commanding situation, a little to the south of New St. Andrew's Church. It Ivas erected in 1845 through the laudable exertions of a number of citizens desir" ou3 of securing a liberal education for the youth of the middle and upper classes. It is to be hoped that an institution calculated to confer lasting benefits upon the community, and quite unsectarian in its Directory, internal management, and system of instruc- tion, may receive due countenance and support. The atten- dance bas averaged upwards of two hundred j but there is accom- ,•, ■■■ 'I {,i; lA ' 41 40 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. ml -IS >il ■ I Hi M-l f'i ' 1*1 lii modation for four hundred. It is an elegant building, approaching the Tudor style of Architecture. — The Baptist College is a conspicu- ous edifice situated upon the most elevated ground within the south- ern part of the city. It can accommodate upwards of forty students with separate bedrooms and studies, besides day-scholarsr It was erected at a cost of about X7,500, and was opened in 1846. — Among the Literary Institutions, that of the Natural History Society is particularly worthy of notice. It was founded in 1827 and incor- porated in 1832. The building in Little St. James Street contains a Library and Museum. The former comprises a large number of im- portant works on subjects of Natural History, and the latter a large collection of specimens of Natural objects and works of Art. The mineralogical specimens are of the finest description ; the simple minerals, exclusive of those found in this country, amount to up- wards of sLxteen hundred. The Botanical Department exhibits a considerable collection of plants not only from Canada, but from the Uniied States and Europe. The collections of Shells, Insects, and Reptiles are very creditable. The Ornithological collection contains nearly all the birds found in this part 6f tVie world, besides a large number of British birds and those of the Torrid Zone. There is a deficiency of Quadrupeds. The apartments are well worthy of a visit. In connection with the above Institution it is proper to mention that the members have for some winters past been in the habit of delivering a course of weekly Lectures, chiefly on scientific subjects, to which the public had free admission. It is matter of regret that these excellent lectures have not at all been countenanced in the degree to which their important and interesting character has entitled them.— The Mechanics' Institute, Mercantile Library Association, Shakspeare Club, and Canadian Institute have contributed essential service to the community by establishing each a w eekly course of Lectures during the months of w^inter. These Lectures, for which the services of our most eminent professional gentlemen are brought into requisition, embrace a great diversity of subjects in literature and science, and expound views on almost every topic that may have engaged the public mind for any length of time. Moreover these Societies have established appropriate Libraries and (except the scape, Johnsc State, right orchar de Mo is now adjoini mer th aort hit CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 41 pproaehino; Di conspicu- 1 the south- •ly students •3, It was in 1846.— ory Society ' and incor- t contains a mber of im- itter a large ^Art. The the simple 3unt to up- t exhibits a but from the Insects, and ion contains sides a large There is a tvorthy of a r to mention the habit of ific subjects, »f regret that inced in the has entitled Association, ited essential :ly course of li, for which are brought in literature lat may have )reover these (except the Shakspeare Club) Rcauiug-rooms well supplied with Provincial and British Newspapers and Periodicals. Some of them possess Mu- seums. The Montreal Library, which was founded in 1796, and contained upwards of six thousand English Works and about two thousand French, was recently gifted to the Mercantile Library Association by the few remanent subscribers. — The Societies for benevolent and leligious purposes arc too numerous for notice here. — It has been elsewhere noticed that the Original Burying-ground occupied the present site of the Cathedral and other parts of the French Square. A large extent of ground has been appropriated as a Cemetery for Roman Catholics in the St. Antoine Suburbs. The Cemetery for the Protestant inhabitants was purchased in 1799, and is now in the centre of the cit^'^ j such has been the increase of popu- lation within half a century. Efforts have been made for some years, but hitherto ineffectually, for appropriating suitable grounds for an extensive cemetery in the vicinity. No traveller, we hope, will think of leaving Montreal without gratifying himself with a drive Ui-. dthe Mountain, returning by the road between its two ridges. In the course of the drive from the N.W. to the village of Cote des Nciges, he will^have a very extensive prospect of the Island of Montreal, that of Isle Jesus, and of the country lying beyond, as well as of the expanse of the Ottawa. As he emerges from the hollow, he has a beautiful panorama of the city with its suburbs, covering an area of above one thousand acres. For many miles above and below, his eyes view the wide St. Lawrence flowing majestically along, and range over a wide intervening land- scape, terminating in the Mountains of Beloeil and Rouville, Mount Johnson, the Green Mountains of Vermont, and those of New York State. As he descends, he will descry immediately below on the right a conspicuous mansion, surrounded by extensive gardens and orchards, which was formerly known as the Chateau des Seigneurs de Montreal from its belonging to the gentlemen of the Seminary. It is now generally called the Priests^ Farm, as several acres of the adjoining land are cultivated as a farm for their benefit. In sum- mer the Seminarists and the professors and pupils of the College re- sort hither weekly for recreation and refreshment. Till of late years D 2 :«&l, Vfc ; ■-.' . •••( . ?' 42 CANADIAN GUIl'E BOOK. 'If m H If I "I I •I.HI I on such occasions a band of music, formed of amateurs of their own body, enlivened the procession as it went and returned. — Such tourists as feel the natural desire of seeing somewhat more of Canadian coun- try life should avail themselves of the favourite drives to l.ongue Pointe, or across the Island to Sault aux Recollets on the Ottawa. We shall now suppose the tourist on board one of the steamers that ply daily betivixt Montreal and Quebec, the ancient capital of Canada. He has now a good opportunity of inspecting the port, •which altogether is one of the finest in the world. The quay ex- tends crescent-like along the whole front of the city for nearly a mile, containing numerous basins and wharves for vessels of every size, and leaving ample space for the passage of almost countless cabs, charrettes, omnibuses, and trucks. A most substantial stone wall, about twelve feet high, the top of which is level with the front street, and guarded by a handsome cast-metal i-aihng, bounds the entire quay. This wall in winter acts as a defence against tiie immense masses of ice, which are heaved frequently above the level of the street, on the occasion of shoves before the river takes, i. e. is so bridged over with ice that regular roads can be constructed, and an uninterrupted communication kept up, usually for upwards of three months, as upon ierrafirma. The wall, also, serves as a defence on the break- ing-up of the winter. The river here runs at the rate of about six miles an hour, and is nearly two miles wide. The current between St. Helen's and the opposite shorc^ called St. Mary's Current, is so strong that steam-tugs are in constant requisition for towing ves- sels to the different basins. — AVe may here premise that the distance from Montreal to Quebec is one hundred and eighty miles, that the town of Three Rivers lies half way, and that above this town the banks vary from live to fifteen feet in height, while below it they gradually increase their elevation till they attain to some hundred feet within a few miles of Quebec. The intermediate country is on the whole well cultivated, and on either side is seen an uninterrupted suc- cessir n of neat whitcwaslied cottages and of thriving villages at al- most regular intervals, in which handsome churches with tin-covered «pires are conspicuous. This dense succession of farm-houses alono- the shores is accounted for by the fact, that the seignems, to whom CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 43 grants of land were originally made, parcelled it out in such a manner' tiiat each censitaire or tenant might have a frontage upon the river, so desirable for a variety of purposes. In order to secure this partial benefit, each concession; instead of forming a compact square-like parcel of ground, extended longitudinally some two, three, or more miles backwards, and has introduced several anomalies and inconve- niences in carrying on the farming operations. In this way the por- tion in front is under cultivation, while that in the rear is under pas- turage, and frequently under brush-wood. The same system has ob- tained in the concessions of the early settlements on both sides of the St. Lawrence below Quebec. The seigneuries still retain the names of the seigneurs to whom the lands were originally granted ; and th^villages or parishes arc called after the names of Saints. — Three miles below on the right bank lies Longucuil, originally the property of the Sieurofthat name, and latterly of Baron Grant. Through this village passes the plank-road to Fort Chambly. The intervening country is highly favourable to the growth of grain and most other species of agricultural produce. The present handsome church occupies the site of the ancient fort of Longucuil, one of many formerly raised as barriers against the Iroquois nation. The ferry- boat here is from morning to evening frequented by passengers of every description, but especially by habitans conveying their produce to market and returning with purchases. A little above the landing- place is the terminus of the St. Lawrence and Atlantic Railroad, which was completed in December last (1848) as far as St.Hyacinthe, a distance of thirty miles. For an account of the country through which this portion of the Railroad passes, our reader is referred to the Appendix, as few travellers fail to avail themselves of the oppor- tunity which the road affords of enjoying the extensive and romantic scenery of the Belocil Mountain, &c., within the space of a single day. — Three miles below on the left is the village of Longue Pointe, and three miles beyond is that of Pointe aux Trembles (or Aspen Point, so called from having been originally covered with aspens)* — Nearly opposite is the considerable village of Bouchcnille. It was a portion of a grant to Sicur Boucher. In. this place many families, still retaining some of the titles of the ancient noblesse of the cou;i- *l> I i '4 I V ■ % u CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. H try, have fixed their residence, and still exhibit much of the ceremo- ny and etiquette that used to characterize the titled circles of the French nation. The better-looking houses of these residents form a strong contrast to the major part of those belonging to tlie other in- habitants. — Six miles downivards on the same side is the massive church of Varenncs, which for imposing external appearance and interior decoration is unsurpassed in the landward districts. Its two spires form a conspicuous object, and on clear afternoons are distinctly seen from Montreal, from which it is fifteen miles distant. The Miner- al Springs here are growing into some repute and attracting visitants during the warm weather. Shortly before reaching Varennes, Bout de I'Isle (the End of the Island of Montreal, being its northern extremity) is passed. Three miles beyond Varennes on the north shore is Repcntigny, the first village after crossing from the Island. Beyond appear in succession on the north shore, at intervals of six miles, the villages of St. Sulpice, Lavaltrie, and Lanoraie. The extensive farms for many miles to the rear of these are in an advanced state of cultivation. — Ten miles beyond Lanoraie, but on the south shore, lies the town of Sorel, at the mouth of the river of the same name, which is also known by that of the Richelieu or Chambly. It is exactly forty-five miles from Montreal and halfway to Three Rivers. This town, which has a very pleasant situation, and pos- sesses advantages for trade, is built on the site of a fort w Inch was erected in 1663 as a defence against the incursions of the Indians. It received the name of Sorel from a captain of engineers, who su- perintended the construction. ... proper and legal name, however, is William Henrt, after his late Majesty, William iV., who, hav- ing been much taken with its pleasant situation during a visit to Can- ada in the naval service of his country, the residents commemorated the circumstance by giving it this new name. It was regularly laid out about 1785 when some loyalists and d ^banded soldiers settled in it, and to this day many old military servants of the Crown reside heie. The streets intersect each other at right angles, and in the centre is Royal Square. The eight principal streets are named after different branches of the royal family. Here are several Government buildings, as a barrack, block-house, hospital, kc, in M CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 45 ccrcmo- s of the s form a )lhcr in- massivc nee and Its two istinctly e Miner- visitants es, Bout northern he north Island, lis of six le. The idvanced he south he same (ihly. It to Three and pos- hich was Indians, who su- wever, is ho, hav- ; to Can- ;morated •egularly soldiers e Crown s, and in e named several kc, in consequence of some companies of troops being usually stationed here from its important position in commanding the communication between Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence. The Commander of the Forces occupies the Government -cottage, as it is called. The population amounts to about two thousand five hundred. The louses, though generally constructed of wood, are substantial, he Protestant and Catholic churches are of stone. On the opposite shore of the Richelieu are excellent accommodations for ship-buiid- ing, in which vcsyels of large tonnage used to be constructed. This branch of trade, however, has not been pursued to the extent that might have been expected. Here most of the Montreal steam- ers are laid up for the winter.-~A few miles below Wir' Henry the St. Lawrence widens into its last expansion, v ailed Lake St. Peter It is about twenty- five miles long, and from five to ten in width. Its upper extremity for about nine i.iiles is studded with numerous islands, some affording excellent pasturage, and others still covered with tall primeval trees. Some of the group belong to Government. On approaching the Lake the stranger can descry, overtopping the islands, the church-spire of Berthier, a village pleasantly situated on the North Channel of the River. From being midway between Montreal and Three Rivers in the direct route of the stages established on the plan of those in the Mother Country between the Capital and Quebec, and from having well furnished stores for the supply of the neighbouring populous seigniories, it has become a place of considerable resort and traffic. Hence large quantities of grain are annually exported. From its flat situation much damage has been sometimes caused to the basements of the houses and goods in the stores by the melting of the snow and ice in spring. So great has the rise been that it has been necessary to remove large quantities of grain to the upper stories of granaries in order to preserve it from injury. A similar inconvenience happens at Vercheres on the south side. The banks on either sidp of the Lake are very low,and shoals stretch from them to a considerable distance, so that there is but a narrow passage for shipping from two to three fathoms in depth. This intricate channel is marked off by poles _nd other beacons. Large sums of money have been expended by I -W 46 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. I; Mi. , - 1 , ,;*i ty. II the Legislature from year to year in attempts to deepen the channel t{) the requisite depth for vessels of large tonnage, hut from the bhifthjg nature of the hcd, or injudieious management, or Home other cause, the results have hcen hitherto unsatisfactory. — On passing the group of islands -we leave the District of Mcnitreal and enter that of Three Uivers. Three considerable rivers, the Yamaska, St. Francis, and Nicolet, flow at equal intervals into the Lake on the south shore. 'I'he St. Francis issues Irom a lake of the same name, and after a course of upwards of a hundred miles reaches the Lake. Near its mouth are several islru.ds, the largest of which is four miles long, is well settled, and contains a chnrch and parsonage-house. There is an Indian village on the east side of the river. The settlement com- prises thirty-seven acres. These Indians are of the Abenaquais tribe, and subsist by raising in a very indifferent manner a little Indian corn and potatoes, and rearing a few pigs and poultry. To these means they add a little by fishing, and by hunting during the whiter. They are chiefly Roman Catholics, and on that account the Government supports a Roman Catholic Missionary. A Methodist Missionary has recency resided amongst them, and a few families adhere to him. They nuiiibcr ubout tln*ee hundred. A fcnv miles from the mouth of the last is Nicolei, near ^vhich is a College on an enlarged scale, founded about the beginning of this century, and maintained in its infancy by the liberality of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Quebec. — After passing Port St. Francis, where passengers land for the Eastern Townships, the River soon resumes its usual breadth. --The town ofTrois Rivieres or Three Rivers is pleasantly situated on the west side of the St. Maurice, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. Two small islands in the mouth of the St. Maurice give the appearance of three distinct rivers, and hence originated the name. It is one of the oldest places in Canada, having been begun in 1618 by some French colonists, with the view of making it a depot whence the fur-trade might be carried on with the Indians to the north- ward ; but Aloiitreal, being found a moi*e convenient station, became the main emporium for this traffic. On this account the town made little progress till tiie year 1737, when the estabhehment of a Foundry at St. JNJaurice, eight miles in rear of the town, con' CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 47 channel fr(jm the me other ssing the • that of Francis, ith shore. d after a Near its s long, is There is ent com- lais tribe, llan corn !se means r. They I'ernment issionary e to him. mouth of ;ed scale, ed in its Quebec. — J Eastern rhe town ed on the awrence. give the be name. 11 in 1618 )t whence le north'. . station, :ount the blishment •nn, con' tributed somewhat to its improvement. At the conquest of ihc Prov- ince the right of the French king devolved on His Britannic Majesty, and the Forges were leased to private persons who worked thfm with success. More recently they have passed into the hands of the Honblc. James Ferricr, lately Mayor of Montreal, an enterpris- ing citizen. The Foundry, by means of furnnces, forges, smelting- hoiises, and workshops, manufactures stoves of every description, large caldrons or kettles for pot-ashes, machinery fcr mills, wheels for rail road-cars, lamp-posts, &c., &c. Large quantities of pig and bar iron are exported. Upwards of three hundred men are em- ployed, and their dwellings present the appearance of a small village. The manager is a Scotchman : the pattern-makers, moulders, and other workmen are Canadians. The ore which is abundant, is equal to the best Swedish. It is singular that hitherto there has not been found in either province sand suitable for the purpose of casting iron. For this reason the proprietors import from Britain what they use in this operation. The stoves manufactured here are preferred by the hahilans to those of any other manufacture. Peltry in small quanti- ties is still brought by the Indians, and received by the Agents of the Hudson's Bay Company. The site of the town and vicinity is flat and sandy. The wharfage is good, admitting ships of large tonnage close to it. The streets arc narrow, of which the principal one, Notre Dame, runs the whole length of the town, nearly parallel with the River. The Ursuline Convent was founded in 1 677 by the then Bishop of Quebec. It has a Superior and twenty-four nuns. The original building was destroyed by fire in 1806, but, from the hio-h estimation in which the Ursulines were held, it was rebuilt and re-oc- cupied in 1808. A decided improvement in the construction of pri- vate residences has taken place. The court-house,£ lol, barracks, and churches are substantial buildings of stone. In this town there are about one hundred of the Algonquin tribe of Indians in a state of great poverty. On the St. Maurice there are nearly as many of the Tete de Boule tribe in a similar condition. Three Rivers has a popu- lation of upwards of five thousand, and sends a member to the Legis- lative Assembly. We beg to refer the tourist to the Appendix for an account of the scenery of the St. Maurice and in particular of that of t H X 4i I 48 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. ill '111 » the Falls of the Shcwinagam and Grande Mere.— Nearly opposite to Three Rivers, the Becancour, after a course of about seventy miles, joins tlie St. Lawrence. A little above the village of Becancour, which lies to the cast, is a settlement of Abenaquais Indians, occu- pying a few acres of land and three islands. They only amount to about one huiidred, and in their customs and occupations are quite similar to those at St. Francis. — A few miles below on the left bank ia Batiscan, at the mouth of the river of that name. Six miles up on its east side is a foundry of the same description with that on the St. Maurice, but on a much smaller scale. It is the property of several individuals. It is proper to remark tliat, without almost a single ex- ception, the numerous tributaries of the St. Lawrence from the top of Lake St. Peter to Quebec are rendered unnavigable on account of falls an4 rapids. These tributaries used to be crossed by means of canoes and scows kept by ferry-men at a somewhat high charge for the transport of passengers, carriages, &c. Of late years, how- ever, a great improvement has taken place in this respect, as the post-road is now generally continued across these ancient ferries by means of the substantial wooden bridges that have been construct- ed. — The village of Stc. Anne next appears on the same side, to the east of the river of that name. Here the large District of Quebec commences on both sides of the St. Lawrence. — The steamer is now approaching the Richelieu Rapids, which extend for upwards of eight miles. These are about equally distant between Three Rivers and Quebec. Here the channel is so contracted that the navigation is rendered very hazardous except at particular periods of the tide. During this passage may frequently be seen a considerable fleet of vessels of various classes lying at the mouth of the Portneuf, for the purpose of receiving freights of flour and timber from the extensive grist and saw-mills beautifully situated in a hollow near the main road. During low water, vessels, in passing up and^down, usually anchor here. In this way Portneuf presents a bustling appearance. — Eastwards the banks gradually increase in elevation until at Cap Sante they are one hundred and fifty feet above the River. The Church, standing on the point of the Cape, cannot fail to attract the stranger's notice. This Church, with its three spires, is distin- tpposite to snty miles, ccancour, ins, occu- imount to are quite 3 leH; buiii< niles up on on the St. r of several single ex- fi the top of account of means of charge for ears, how- ect, as the t ferries by construct- side, to the of Quebec steamer is upwards of hree Rivers navigation of the tide. ible fleet of Buf, for the e extensive ,r the main vn, usually ippearanee. intil at Cap iver. The to attract s, is distin* CANADIAN GUIDK BOOK. 49 jruishablc at a great distance, and serves as a land-mark to pilot* going down the Rivrr. Tne Cape is about thirty miles from Quebec. From Cap Sniitc- a large shoal, called Batturn da Cap SanUj stretches nearly to the entrance of li»e Jacques Carticr. It is thickly beset with rocks uncovered at low water. It is almost superfluous to remind the reader, that the river just mentioned has derived its name from the famous navigator who first examined the St. Law- rence, and secured his ves; V 50 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. :M !H • I HI At high water, boats of considerable Lurtheii can ascend as high as the mill, about three-quarters of a mile from the St. Lawrence ; and a handsome brid ';i;ription. In 1629 it fell into the hands of the English, but was restored in 1632. In 1663 the colony became a royal government, and Quebec the capital. In 1690 the English made an unsuccessful attempt to reconquer it. In that year it was fortified in a regular manner by works of stone according to the rules of art. From that period its increase was gradual till it fell into the hands of the En- glish under General Wolfe in 1759, when the population was estimat- ed at between eight and nine tliousand. The site of Quebec may be deycribed as a triangle, whose base is formed by the Banlicu line, and the sides by the St. Lawrence and St. Charles, the point at their confluence answering to the apex. The Lower Town includes all underneath the cliff, from the spot where the Banlieii line strikes the St. Lawrence on the Soutli to the King's Woodyard on the St. Charles towards the North. The suburb of St. Koch is beyond the wood yard. The St. Lawrence is believed to be the river farthest naviga- '?■ 'H W'ii 52 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. t ble for vessels of a large size in the world. From its mouth in the Gulf to Quebec is three hundred and sixty miles, and European vessels ascend to Montreal, which is one hundred and eighty miles higher up. The river is about a mile in breadth in front of the city, and about thirty fathoms (one hundred and eighty feet) in depth. Good anchorage is everywhere found.— Wc would recommend the stranger, as soon as he finds himself in readiness to proceed from his lodgings for the purpose of enjoying the scenery of Quebec and its environs, to visit in the first place the Citadel, and place himself near to the flag staff. His interest v/ill be more correctly gratified, if he be accompanied by an individual conversant with the surrounding localities and their associations. The Citadel, which surmounts the summit of Cape Diamond, is three hundred and fifty feet above the River, and includes about forty acres. This fortress, admitted as un- equalled by any military work on tliis Continent, and as second 'o Tew of the most celebrated fortresses in the Old WorUyhas been rreq-jent- ly and appropriately called >.e '' Gibraltar of America." Hence is commanded a conji (Pfcil, which American and European travellers have pronounced unsurpassed in the New and Old Worlds. The view embraces the opposite banks of the majestic river for forty miles up and down, backed by extensive plains receding to lofty moun- tains in the distance, the Isla^id of Orleans between its shores, and on cither hand the lively village of Pointe Levy and that of Beau- port, wiiilst the Great River and the St. Charles unite in form- ing tlie magnificent basin, on whose bosom vessels of every size are continually floating. Here the position of ihe City, on the tongue of land formed by these two rivers, is Avell seen. 1 he Cape is com- posed of dark-coloured slate, in which are found in veins quartz crystals, sparkling like diamonds, and hence arose the name of Cape Diamond. A walk along the ramparts above the Esplanade is a delightful promenade. Hence the eyes rest on the small group of hillsjforming the p:)rtul to the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay. It is worthy of remark here, that tlie lower range of mountairis seen from Quebec is the boundary to civilization in this direction. The St. Charles is seen to most advantage at sun set, when its shores, studded with CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 53 1 vhitc buildings, are illuminated by his declining rays, as they mo- nicnlarily rest on the chain of hills above the beautiful Val Cartier. — The Obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm stands en the Promenade between the gardens attached to tlie Castle. Lord Dal* housie, Governor General, originated the erection of this monument, and contributed handsomely to its subscription. Captain Young, of the 79th Highlanders, prepared the design. For the sake of those who do not understand the Latin language, we subjoin a translation oi' the two inscriptions. " This monumental stone to the memory of the illustrious men, Wolfe and Montcalm, was laid by George, Earl of Dalhousic, Governor-in-Chief over all the British Provinces in North America ; a work neglected for many years (what is there more worthy of a gallant general 1) he promoted by his influence, encouraged by his example, and favoured by his munificence, loth November, 1827. George IV. reigning King of Great Britain." '"' Military prowess gave them a common death, History, a common fame, Posterity, a common monument. In the year of our Lord 1827." It is not devoid of interest to record here, that, when the foundation-stone of this monument was laid in presence of his Excellency, the Governor-in-Chief, the Lord Bifhop of Quebec, the Chief Justice, the Committee of Superintendence, and a large assem- blage of Ladies and Gentlemen, the ceremony derived a peculiar interest from the presence of Mr. James Thompson, one of the few survivors (supposed to be the sole one in Canada) of the gallant army, that served under Wolfe on the memorable 13th of September, ) 759. This veteran, then in his 95th year, walked with the party that accompanied the Earl, and leaned on the arm of the officer, whose chaste and appropriate design for the monument was adopted. The venerable mason, having been called upon by the Governor to assist in the ceremony, with a firm hand gave the three mystic strokes with the mallet on the stone. He has since paid the debt of nature, having died on the 25th of August, 1830, in the 98th year of his age. He was for a long time Overseer of Works in the Engineer Department of the Garrison. He was born at Tain, the county- town of Ross-shire in Scotland ; and, having come to this country in E 2 ■r :f % r»4 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. \ v^-' fi'^ General Wolfe's army, was at the capture of Louisburg in Cape Bre- ton Island, and in the unsuccessful affair near Montmorenci Falls. He also took part in the defence of Quebec against the attacks of the American Generals, Arnold and Montgomery, in 1775. When his remains were conveyed to the grave with military honours,the band and iiring party were furnished by the loth Regiment, the senior corps in garrison, which by a singular coincidence happened to be one of those ^vhich formed the army under General Wolfe. — The traveller might now descend through the Place d'Armes to the Seminary Gardens. The English or Protestant Cathedral is one of the handsomest modern edifices in the City. It was consecrated in 1804. The com- munion plate is very magnificent, and was presented by King George the Third. He also presented the books for Divine service — the altar»cloth, &c. There is a principal entrance at each end, ap*- proaclicd by a flight of vs cps. The spire, which is one hundred and iifty-two feet above the ground, and covered with tin, from the church standing on nearly the liighcst ground in the city, is a very conspi- cuous object at a great distance. Within is erected a handsome monument of white marble to the memory of the late Dr. Moun- tain, first Bishop of Quebec, who procured the erection of the build- ing. Beneath the altar are interred the remains of the Duke of Richmond, Governor-General of these Provinces, who died of hydro^ phobia in August, 1819. A few other handsome monuments adorn the walls. On the north side of the Church, there stood, since Que- bec was a city, a huge elm-tree, one of the aborigines of the forest, It was blown down during a squall seme three or four years ago. Withm the enclosure has recently been erected the Rectory, in which liis Lordship the Bishop of Montreal resides ; a small chapel is attach- ed. There are besides four chapels of the Church of England within the Parish of Quebec, viz.—that of the Holy Trinity, St. Mat- thew's or the Free Chapel, St. Paul's or the Mariner's Chapel, and St. Peter's. The Church and Convent of the Recollets or Franciscans ivere formerly situated near this spot, having been destroyed by fire ill 1796. On a part of their grounds the Church stands. This order is now extinct in Canada.—The Court-house, which is a large modern structure of stone, contains on the ground-floor apartments i!:i':l CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 55 >ape Bre- nci Falls, cks of the When his ! band and tr corps in le of those Her might Gardens, andsomesl The com- ng George rvice — the end, ap- indred and the church iry conspi- handsome )r. Moun- r the build- tie Duke of i of hydro* lents adorn since Que- the forest, years ago. y, in which ;1 is attach" ;land within , St. Mat- ipel, and St. Franciscans 9yed by fire ads. This ;h is a large apartments for holding the Quarter-Sessions and other inferior Courts, offices of Clerks of the different Courts, &c. &c. Above there is a spacious chamber, in which are held the Courts of Queen's Bench and Com- mon Pleas, the Court of Appeals, and the Admiralty Court. There arc also offices for the High Sheriff and other magistrates, and a room for occasional Militia Courts-martial. It occupies, like the En- glish Church, part of the site on which 'stood a monastery and churclj of the Recollets, which were destroyed by fire in 1796. — We shall now briefly allude to such public edifices as seem worthy of notice from their antiquity or interesting associations. — The Castle of St. Louis was built shortly after the city was fortified with solid works, and comprised four acres, once fortified ; but tlie great extension of the works rendered the walls superfluous, and they were allowed to go lO decay. Here was the residence of the Representative of the Crown, while Quebec continued the Seat of Government. The Castle was entirely consumed by fire in 1834. — The chief religious edifice is the Roman Catholic Cathedral. It was built under the auspices of the first Bishop of Quebec, and was consecrated in 1666 under the title of the Immaculate Conception. It is two hun-* dred and sixteen feet long by one hundred and eighty in breadth, and stands on ground belonging to ♦he Fahrique, or Church land. It is divided into a nave and two aisles. At the upper end of the former is the grand altar ; and in the side aisles are four chapels, dedicated to different saints. It is dedicated to Notre Dame de Victoire, and can accommodate about four thousand persons. — Adjoining stands the Seminary, forming three sides of a square, and occupying with its attached buildings a large space of ground. It was founded and endowed in 1663 by Monseigneur de Laval de Montmo- rency, first Bishop of Canada. During his life-time the buildings were twice burnt to the ground. Having resigned his Bishopric, he passed the last twenty years of his life within the Seminary. This in- stitution was originally intended for the instruction of the Catholic Clergy exclusively. The early regulations have long ago been set aside ; and students of the Catholic persuasion, intended for any profession, arc instructed in the different branches of literary and scientific knowledge, on paying the trifling sum of 5s, annually for defraying 4 ■■f 4* -A I W f % oG CANADIAN GUIDE BOOIC. I incidental expenses. Pupils are boarded at the very moder»»e charge of £12 10s. yearly. The establishment is divided into two branches, distinguished as the Grand and Petit Seminaire. 'flie roursc includes Latin and French, Mathematics, Bellcs-lettrea, Moral and Natural Philosophy, Astronomy, Chemistry, Drawings Music, &,c. &CC. Besides the requisite domestic apartments, such as dormitories, refectories, &c., it contains halls for the senior and junior classes, and residences for tlie Superior, Directors, Professors, and different masters. These incumbents receive no emoluments, as they consecrate themselves gratuitously to their arduous labours. The Institution only guarantees " food and raiment" in sickness and health. The annual exhibitions are most interesting, and are attended by crowds of the respectable citizens^^ and parents and fifuardians of pupils from a distance. The Catholic Bishop has his residence within the Seminary. In the Bishop's ante-chamber are suspended the portraits of his twelve predecessors. The chapel con- tains the best collection of paintings, (by eminent masters of the French School) in this country. The Library contains upwards of nine thousand volumes j and there is a valuable collection of philosophi- cal instruments, besides fossils, minerals, Indian curiosities, &c. &c. — The Ursuline Convent, and Church of St. Ursula, are neat struc- tures,"[surrounded by large productive gardens. This establishment ivas founded in 1639 by Madame de la Peltrie, for the purpose of extending the benefits of education to the young females of the Colony. Pupils have resorted thither from the United States, Nova Scotia, and Princo Edward's Island. At present (1849) three hun- dred and sixty-eight are receiving a superior education. It contains a Superior, fifty Nuns, and six novices, who give instruction in reading, writing, and needle-work. They are very assiduous in em- broidery and other ornamental works, especially for ecclesiastical vestments. Considerable prices are obtained for their fancy-work, and by this means and the produce of the gardens the revenue of the community is increased. The Convent has been twice destroy- ed by fire, a calamity from which few buildings of long standing in this city have escaped. Tliis occurred in 1650 and 1686. It is worthy of honourable notice, that on both occasions the unfortunate CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 57 1 outcasts, to the number of fourteen and t'»venty-five respectively, were most hospitably sheltered for the space of three weeks under the roof of the Hospitalicres, or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. Witlun the precincts of the Convent are interred the remains of the gallant Marquis de IVIontcalm, who was mortally wounded in the eventful battle on the Plains of Abraham in 1759, Lord Aylmer, Governoi- in-Chief, caused a marble slab with an appropriate inscription to be erected to his memory in the Chapel. The Chapel contains about a dozen paintings which may be examined on application to the Chaplain. Those within the Convent are not open to the public. This establishment is usually visited by strangers, who, on making application to the Roman Catholic Bishop, will receive the necessary introduction or permission. — On the arrival of some of the Jesuits in Canada in 1635, they erected a suitable habitation, the de- fttruction of which a few years afterwards made way for their "pacious Monastery. It was forfeited on the suppression of that order, and at the conquest was regarded as Crown property. It was formerly surrounded by extensive gardens, which were then destroyed and converted into a place of exercise for the troops. The citizens with much regret saw felled to the ground the stately trees, yet untouched by decay, that had been the primeval tenants of the site at the foundation of the city. — The elegant build- ing denominated the Bishop's Palace, sla.iding on an elevated spot, is very conspicuous, and originally had a chapel connected therewith. The bishop having accepted an annuity in lieu of it, the (Government fitted it up for the accommodation of the two branches of the Legislature, by whom it continued to be used until the re- moval of the Seat of Government. — The Quebec Library, a valuable collection of books numbering upwards of six thousand volumes, is also in this building. It was founded in 1779 during the administra- tion of General Haldimand, who liberally contributed one hundred volumes of valuable works towards its formation. This building rontains the Museum of the Literary and Historical Society, which was founded in 1824, and united in 1829 to that for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences. The Mineralogical and Botanical collections •ire said to be valuable. The apartments are open to the public "I ^: )i 58 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. i-ti Si5 daily fiom 1 to 3, P. M.— About 1803 a joint-stock company crfrt- rd a vcr)' liandsoma buildinc;, ^vith the view of supplying the city ivitli n hotel somewhat in the commodious style of the neighbouring- States. It was called the St. George Hotel. The speculation, however, hav- ing turned out unremuncrativo, it was sold to th(i late Chief- Justice, Sewcll, and thereafter leased to Government for £500 annually for the use of the chief Civil Departments ; but since the removal of the Seat of Government to Montreal, it has again been converted into a hotel, bearing the above mentioned name. The Artillery Barracks, "Hhich form a range of stone buildings upwards of five hundred feet in length, roughly constructed, but very substantial and well arrang- ed, were erected before 1750 for the accommodation of troops by which the garrison was re-inforccd, and were then distinguished as the Casernes Nouvellcs. Besides quartering the artillerymen, they contain an ordnance-office, storehouses, workshops, and an armoury. The armoury, which occupies several apartments, contains,in a state of complete repair and readiness for immediate use, small arms of every description, sufficient for the equipment of twenty thousand men. The admiration of strangers is excited by the fanciful coup d^fpil, which is presented by the display of the arms in various designs and emblematical devices. — The Gold Dog is an object whose his- torical associations induce the stranger to pay it a visit. It is the figure of a dog^ rudely j-cidptured in relievo, and richly gilded, over the door of the Post Office. This house v/as built by a Mens. PLilibert, who had f(jrmeily been a merchant in Bordeaux, and who came to Quebec in 1712 in the time of Bigot, the lost Intendant under the French Government. This intendant's drafts on the Treasury were so exorbitant, that one of the Queens of France is said to have archly enquired " whether the walls of Que- bec were built of gold ?" It is recorded that Bigot and Philibert were on very bad terms— that the latter, knowing well that it was in [vain to seek redress in the Colony, and having determined to prefer at some future period his complaint in J'rance, contented himself with placing in front of his houce, the figure of a dog lying down, and gnawing a bone, with the following lines in allusion to )us situation with his powerful enemy : |j: CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 59 \ any crtrt- c city with u'j; States. ever, ha7- cf- Justice , nually for oval of the rtcd into a Barrack.?, undrcd feet ell arrang- ' troops by nguished as ynien, they n armoury. iSjin a state lall arms of ty thousand mciful coup ious desiji^ns ivhose his- t. It is the gildedj over y a Mons. rdcaux, and )t, the last I ant's drafts Queens of alls of Que- ind Philibert that it was termined to e, contented ' a dog lying n allusion to " Je suis un chien qui rongePos, Er» Ic rongeant jc prcnds mon repos. Un terns viendra, qui n'est pas venu, Queje mordrai qui ni'aura mordu." Bigot readily understood this allegorical language, and easily found an instrument to avenge the insult. As Philibert was descending ihc Lower Town Hill, he received through his back the sword of an officer of tlie garrison as the reward of his verse. The assassin was permitted to leave the Colony unmolested, and was transferrea to a regiment stationed in the East Indies, whither he was pursued by a brother of the deceased, who had first sought him in Canada, having arrived here to settle his brother's affairs. The parties are- said to have met in a public street of Pondicherry, where the assas- sin, after a severe conflict, died by the sword of his antagonist, and met a more honourable fate than his crime deserved. — Among pub« lie places in the Upper Town we may mention Durham Terrace, and the Esplanade, which is the chief theatre for military exercises. A httle to the west of Hope-Gate stands the building once occupied by the brave Marquis de Montcalm, now divided into three privatc residences. It is only remarkable now as having been the residence of the French General whose fame has been perpetuated with tliat of his antagonist Wolfe. In St. Anne's Street is St. Andrew's Church in connexion with the Scotch Establishment. A regularly ordanied clergyman of that Cliurch is believed to have officiated to the Presbyterians of that persuasion since the conquest in 1759. It is ascertained that "an apartment was assigned by the King's Representative in the Jesuits' College as a place of worship for the members of the Scotch Church" previously to 1767, and was occupied as such without interruption till 1807, when Colonel Brock, Commandant, requested the con- gregation to remove on the shortest notice, as it was found neces- sary to appropriate the apartment to the accommodation of the troops. In November the congregation removed to the lower room !)f the Court-House. In November of 1808, his Excellency, Gov- ernor Craig, granted the lot of ground on which the present Church now stands. It was opened in November, 1810, by the late Rev. i > ft CANADIAN ^iUIDE BOOK. t I li m ••Sit! Dr. Spark, who died in 1819. In 1821 it was found inadequate for the accommodation of the mombens, when Ihe Earl of Dalliousic was pleased to grant an additional .space of ji;round, on which the prescnt'y enlarged church, which was completed in 1824, and a comlbrtable manse for the Minlr-ter, now stand. The Church accommodatps thi'-tecn luuidred sitters. — In St. Francis Street stands St. Jtjhn's Church, previously a Congregational Chapel. It was erected in 1816. In 1830 the Congrcg."iion, having con- formed to the doctrine, discipline, and laws of liic Church of Scotland, received the ministrations of a regularly ordained clergy- man of that church. At the disruption of the Scottish Establish- ment, a majority of tlie Congr(;gation connected themselves with the Free Church of Scotland, — The Wcsleyaii Methodists have two Chapels, one in St. Aime Street, and the other in St. Louis Suburb, called tlie '' Centenary Chapel". The Loiver Town e.\tends along the base of the precipice on the summit of which the Upper Town is built. The site is almost entirely the creation of human industry, having been gained by ex- cavation from the base of the [)rocipicc, or redeemed from the River by building out into its waters. The towns are connected by Mountain Street, which was formeily almost impassable for carri« ages. Foot passengers avail themselves of the shorter passage, po" pularly known as the Break-neck Stairs. The wharves are very C'Ktensive, and arc generally carried out upwards of two hundred yards into the River. The Chapel (Secoursale, i. e. in aid of the Parish Church,) standing in tlie Square, is of great antiquity, as it was built and used as a church before 1690. In that year Sir VVm. Phipp.o in attempting to capture Quebec was defeated ; and the Fete of Notre Dame de Victoire was instituted for annual celebra- tion i-i this church on the 7th of October. After the shipwreck of the English fleet in 1711, which was regarded by the inhabitants not only as a seccmd victory but as a miraculous interposition in their favour, the church received its present name of Notre Dame dei Victoires, that both events might be commemorated at once. — ^\Ve may here notice the other Roman Catholic Churches, viz. that of tho Congregation, on the hill leading from the Esplanade and St. .ijil CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 61 John's Gate, and that in the populous suburb of St. Koch. The former is perfectly plain in the interior, while the latter is well finish- ed and has several paintings. Among them is one of Bishop Plessis, a great benefactor to this Church. — Another is also in course of erection in St. John's Suburbs, equal in size to the Cathedral. — St. Patrick's occupies an area of one hundred and thirty-six by fifty.- two feet. Its corner-stone was laid in the fall of 1831, and was opened for religious service on the first Sabbath of July, 1833. The steeple is well proportioned, and stands one hundred and twenty foet from the ground to the ball supporting the cross. The interior is calculated to strike the beholder with religious awe and admir- ation. — The Quebec Exchange dates its first institution in 1817. Ill 1822 it was removed from the house in St. Peter Street, in which it was established, to a handsome room in the new building erected by the Fire Assurance Company. The present commodious elifice of cut stone was erected in 1828-9, and has answered the sanguine expectations of the Proprietors. The second-floor is " where the merchants most do congregate", and is devoted to the Reading- room, which is admirably conducted ; the upper part contains tiic rooms of the Board of Trade, and the Telegraph Office. Tlie Quebec Bank, which was established in 1818 and incorporated in 1822, occupies the lower story of the handsome edifice built by the Quebec Fire Assurance Company, whose office is on the second story. —In this part of the Lower Town are the Branch Agencies of the Bankof Montreal, Bank of British North America, and Montreal City Bank. — The King's Wharf,which is appropriated to the purposes of Government, has on it extensive stores belonging to the Com- missariat Department, which were erected in 1821. Here land and embark the officers of the Army and Navy, the troops, Sec. —The building formerly used as a Custom House adjoins on the west. Nearly opposite to this there anciently stood a barrier, where the two ways diverge, one to the steps leading to the Upper Town, and the other to the Harbour. Near this spot the American General, Montgomery, and other officers, were killed during a daring attack upon the Lower Town by the discharge of a F i">ii G2 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. cannon on the 31st of Dccdmbcr, 1775. — At some distance beyonsite to the spot where Jacques Cartier first wintered in 1535. The ceremony of laying the first stone was performetl by Lord Aylmer, Govcrnor'iii- Ciiief, in May, 1S32. It was opened in .Inly, 1831. Its estimated cost wos iJ23,(H)0. The exterior is of the Ionic order ; and the |)roportions are taken from the Temple of the reuses on the Ilissus near Athens. The first story contaijis Catholic and Protestant Chapels with apartments for the ofileiating Ministers, apartments for Housekeeper, Steward, and Nurses, wards for sixty patients, besides two kitchens, store-rooms, baths, &e. The principal story contains the large Entrance Hall, apartments for the Medical Offi- cers, their Examining Rooms, and Operating Theatres, besides a Museum, and accommodation for sixty-eight patients. The thirti story contains apartment,s for the chief nurses, and wards for one hundred and forty patients. The upper story is appropriated as a Lying-in-Hospital fur thirty-four patients. The attics will contain sixty ; so that there is accommodation for three hundred and sixty- two persons. Each story is supplied with cold, hot, and vapour baths. In the basement are cellars, kitchens, laundry, &c. The <;nlire premises contain an area of about six acres, laid out in gar- dens and promenade grounds for convaliscents. — In the month of May and June of 1845, at an exact interval of four weeks, the city was visited by two most calamitous fires. So rapid and extensive was the destruction that nearly one third of the population was rendered houseless, and the entire suburb of St. Roch reduced to ashes. About sixteen hundred buildings, of which twelve hundred were dwellings, were destroyed. The total loss ivas estimated at £875,000, of which about £125,000 was insured. About forty lives were lost. This awful conQagration was arrested mainly CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. orj CG beyoiui. er succcctl- Ic-array on 1 for the re itiuliseasc. uich vessel '.migration. lo the spot cremony of ovcnior-iii- .a estimated ; and th( 1 the Ilissus Protestant apartments ty patients, leipal htory [cdical Ofli- 5j besides n The third 'ds for one iriatcd as a will contain I and sixty- :ind vapour &e. The out in gar- e month oi «, the city id extensive ilation was reduced to ve hundred stimated at ^bout forty ted mainly through the noble exertions of the 43rd and 89lh Itegiments, then (oniposinf? the (jarrison, and of part of the Royal Artillery. The appeals of the Committee of the Quebec Relit^f Fund were nc.bly responded to, not oidy by the Mother C(juntry and the J»ister Pro* vinees, but by the Colonies generally and by the United Slates. A sum, amounting, we believe, to-Miearly £1()(),00(), was thus raised, and the sufferers were enabled to rebuild their houses in many in- stances in a more substantial maimer than before. 'Jhe Corporation enjoined the use of bricks and stone instead of wood for the walls, iiul of tin instead of shingles for the roofs. — We may notice iicrc a few things that could not be properly introduced elsewhere. The city was incorporated in 1832, and for municipal purposes is divided into six wards. Each ward is represented by two members of the Council, from whom the Mayor ia annually chosen. There arc six Aldermen, and the following standing Committees, for By- laws, Elections, Finance, Fire, Markets, Police (including Lighting ind Watching), Public Health, and Roads. The Court of King's Bench for the (Quebec District comprises one Chief Justice and three Puisne Judges. The Criminal Court sits for ten days in March and September. The Superior Court sits four times a year for twenty tlays each time. The District Court lias jurisdiction in cases over £Q 5s to X2() sterling. The Division Court has jurisdiction in cases to the amount of £i^ 5s sterling, l.aeh of the Districts of Gaspo uid St. Francis has a Provincial Judge, and that of Three Rivers a Resident Judge, aided by a Shcrili', Prothonotary, Coroner, and High Constable. Steam communication between Quebec and Montreal commenced in November, 1812. TheSwiftsurc was the lirst Steamboat between the two cities. In 1816 the Malsham was idded, and in 1819 the Telegraph. The communication by steam, iftcr the breaking-up of the ice each season, generally takes place in (he latter half of April j and the first arrivals of Ships from Sea in the Port of Quebec generally take place in the last week of April ii' in the first week of May. It seems proper to give an abstract of the relative population, ^c, of the County of Quebec, according to the census of May 1st, 1844. At that date the entire population amounted to 45/j76. Of ihcse there were ^ , 64 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. Canadians of French origin . Do. of British do. Natives of Ireland Do. of England . . • . Do. of Scotland Continent of Europe or otherwise United States .... Belonging to Church of Rome Do. do. England Do. do. Scotland . Wesleyan Methodists Congrcgationalists Presbyterians not in connection with ) the Church of Scotland ) Baptists and Anabaptists Jews ...... Quakers ..... Lutherans ..... 27,698 7,734 7,28*^ 1,598 . 981 276 122 45,676 36,371 5,494 2,569 877 180 123 29 13 8 3 I -J' I » t& 45,676 The population of the city and suburbs amounts to 42,860 ; banlieu, 2797. Having brought under the Tourist's notice the principal features within the city of Quebec that seem worthy of his attcntion,"vve propose now to accompany him in a few excursions to the surrounding country. A morning's ramble to the Plains of Abraham would not ffjl to recal historical recollections and to gratify a taste for beautiful scenery. On leaving the St. Louis Gate, let him ascend the coun- terscarp on the left, that leads to the Glacis of the Citadel ; and hence pursuing a direction to the right, let him approach one of the Martello Towers, whence he may enjoy a beautiful view of the St. Lawrence. A little beyond let him ascend the right bank, and ho reaches the celebrated Plains of Abraham near the spot where General Wolfe fell. On the highest ground, surrounded by wooden fences, can be clearly traced out the redoubt where he received the CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 65 1 fatal wound. He was carried a few yards to the rear and placed against a rock till he expired. It has since been removed. Within an enclosure lower down and near to the road is the stone-well from which they brought him water. The English right nearly faced this redoubt, and on this position the French left rested. The French army arrived on the Plains from the right of this position, as it came from Beauport and not from Quebec ; and, on being defeated, retired down the heights by which it had ascended, and not into Quebec. In front of the Plains from this position stands the house of March-> mont. It is erected on the site of a French redoubt that once defended the ascent from Wolfe's Cove. Here landed the British army under Wolfe's command, and, on mounting the banks, car- ried this detached work. The troops in the Garrison are usually reviewed on the Plains. — The Tourist may thus enjoy a beautiful ride. Let him leave by the St. Louis Gate and pass the Plains, and he will arrive at Marchmont, the property of John Gilmour, Esq. The former proprietor. Sir John Harvey, went to considerable ex* pense in laying out the grounds in a pleasing and tasteful manner. His successor, Sir Thomas Noel Hill, also resided here, and duly appreciated its beauties. The view in front of the house is grand. Here the River widens and assumes the appearance of a lake, whose surface is enlivened by numerous merchout-ships at anchor, and immense rafts of timber floated down from various parts of the Upper Province for shipment for England, timber being one of the principal exports from the Canadas. On leaving Marchmont he will pass some beautiful villas, whose park-like grounds remind one of En- gland, and from some points in which are commanded views worthy of a painter's study. Among these villas may be mentioned Wolfes- (ield, Spencer Wood, and Woodfield. The last was originally built by the Catholic Bishop of Samos, and, from the several additions made by subsequent proprietors, had a somewhat irregular, though picturesque, appearance. It was burnt down, and rebuilt in a fine re- gular style. It is now the residence of James Gibb, Esq. On leaving this lovely spot,the ride' continues through the woods on the edge of the banks rising from the shore. On the south side are distinguished the F2 66 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. , I t ft embouchures of the Etchemin and Chaudiere pouring i»> their tribute of waters. At Pointe aux Puisseaux the road leads down to Sillery Cove. The view from this point would afford an excellent composi- tion for the brush of the landscape-painter. Before reaching the ascent to the villa of the late Mr. Macnider is an old stone house, formerly inhabited by the heroine of *^ Emily Montague," near which are the ruins of what was once a large stone chapel. Such visitants as are unacquainted with this novel will find in it a faithful picture of the manners and condition of the Colonists when Canada first became a British colony. A mile beyond the villa is that of Kilgraston, formerly belonging to the Rev. D . Mills, Chaplain to the Garrison. Hence the Tourist, instead of returning by a road conducting through a wood into the St. Louis Road for Quebec, will do better by continu- ing his ride to the Church of St. Foy, whence is seen below the St. Charles gliding smoothly through a lovely vale, whose sides rise grad« ually to the mountains and are literally covered with habitations. The villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg are conspicuous objects. Before entering the Suburb of St. John, on the banks of the St. Charles stands the General Hospital, designed, as the name implies, for the disabled and sick poor of every description. Charlevoix says that **it is the finest house in Canada, and would be no disparagement to our larg- est houses in France ; the Fathers RecoUets formerly owned the ground on which it stands. M. de St. Vallier, Bishop of Quebec, removed them into the city, bought their settlements, and expended one hundred thousand crowns in building, furniture, and founda- tions." The first ecclesiastics in Canada were Recollets, four in number, brought out by Champlain in 1 61 5. Their original habita- tion, consisting of a small lodge and seminary, was on the spot where the General Hospital now stand. It was commenced before 1620. In 1690 the Recollets were induced to remove to grounds where the Episcopal Church now stands. This founda- tion was at first under the charge of the Sisters of the Cono-rc* gation, but in 1692 under that of the Hospitalieres or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu ; from which community it received its Superior and twelve professed Nuns, In 1701 the Nuns of the General Hospital were made a separate and independent community, At it! CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 67 eir tribute to Sillery , composi- the ascent , formerly ich are the ints as are ture of the ; became a iilgraston, Garrison, ng through )y continu- low the St. s rise grad- tions. The ts. Before irles stands he disabled L "it is the our larg- ' owned the 3f Quebec, ^ expended nd founda- Bts, four in inal habita- 3n the spot commenced to remove liis founda- he Congrc' or Nuns of its Superior the General nunity. At present it is governed by a Superior at the head of fifty Nuns and a few Novices and Postulantes, The appearance, external and internal, is regular and pleasing. The male patients are lodged on the ground- floor, and the females on that above. The Nuns are distinguished for the manufacture of Church ornaments and for their skill in gilding. The produce of their works is added to the general fund of the Institution, whose support is chiefly drawn from the revenue of the landed property that has been granted to it from time to time. The deficiency is sometimes supplied by grants from the Provincial Parliament. A neat chapel is attached to the establishment. On the opposite side of the road are two houses, one of which was appropriated to the treatment of persons labouring under insanity, who have since been removed to the Government Lunatic Asylum at Beauport, and the other as a dwelling-house for servants employed in a farm belonging to the establishment. A day's excursion to Indian Lorette and Lalie St. Charles would gratify, we doubt not, many a Tourist. It will be necessary to leave by six o'clock, A. M., and to take provisions for the day. A caleche is the best conveyance for the trip. — After leaving the Palace Gate, the site of the former Intendant's Palace is passed. Bigot, whom we have already noticed in connection with M. Philibert and his Golden Dog, was the last Intendant who resided in it. His profligacy and expenditure are notorious ; for the year 1 759 his estimate for the annual expenses was 30,000,000 livres, of which sum he had drawn 24,000,000. It sometimes happened in those days, that, when a gentleman possessed a very handsome wife, the husband was sent to a distant post, where he was sure to make his fortune. Bigot's chej'e amis was a Madame P. As a matter of course, Mr. P. became prodigiously wealthy. The Intendant had a house where the Officers' Barrack in St. Louis Street now stands. This house he presented on a New Year's day to Me. P., as a New Year's gift. This is one out of many specimens of Bigot's profligate munifi- cence. "When Montcalm's widow landed in France, the Marquis cnurch, whence the bell sounded the tocsin of alarm, whenever hostile attempts were made by the Inai.-'ns, and where the inhabitants rallied in defence of their possessions. Before bidding adieu to Quebec we are desirous to acknowledge our obligations to the labours of Alfred Hawkins, Esq. His " Picture of Quebec with Historical Recollections" wr cordially recommend tn all Travellers and others, who would possess themselves of a work re- plete with minute information on the previous history and present con- dition of this Province. We take the liberty of presenting our readers almost verbatim mth the following interesting extracts, andfthus conclude our notice of the ancient Capital of Canada. — The ap- proach to the Citadel, which is nearly two hundred feet higher than the ground on which the Upper Town is situated, is by a winding road made through the acclivity of the Glacis from St. Louis Gate, and commanded everywhere by the guns of the different bastions. This leads into the outward ditch of the ravelin, and thence into the principal ditch of the work, built on both sides with walls of solid masonry, and extending along the whole circumference of the Citadel on the land and city sides. The main entrance is through a massive gate of admirable construction, called Dalhousie Gate in lionour of the Earl of Dalhousie, who succeeded the Duke of Rich- mond, as Governor-in-Chief of these Provinces, in 1820. Within are the Main-Guard-roorns for a detachment and an officer, who arc relieved every day ; and :' n front is a spacious area used as a parade < •ground, or rathei an enlargement of the ditch formed by the retiring angles and face of the bastion. This is a splendid work, presenting a most august appearance, and combining strength and symmetry with all the modern improvements in the art of fortification. In the face of this bastion are loopholes for the fire of musquetry ; oi the lop are embrasures for the cannon. The loopholes serve also for the admission of air and light into the casemated barracks within for the troops composing the Garrison. They are commodious and ivell adapted for comfort and safety, being well ventilated, and prooi CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 71 against fire and missiles of every descriptton. On the top of Da/-* housie Bastion is an extensive covered way, or broad gravel walk, with embrasures for mounting cannon, commanding every part of the Ditch and Glacis, and every avenue of approach to the Citadel. From this elevated spot is obtained an extensive and delightful view of the surrounding scenery, forming a panorama that competent Judges have pronounced not inferior to the celebrated Bay of Naples. An equally magnificent view is obtained from the summit of the Cavalier, on which stands the Telegraph, at the eastern extremity of the Citadel, and also from the Observatory on its western point towards the Plains of Abraham. Within the Citadel are the various magazines, storehouses, and other buildings required for ^he accom- modation of a numerous Garrison ; and, immediately overhanging the precipice to the south, in a most picturesque situation looking perpendicularly downwards on the River, stands a beautiful row of buildings, containing the mess rooms and barracks for the officers, their stables and spacious kitchens. The fortiiications, which are continued round the whole of the Upper Town, consist of bastions connected by lofty curtains of solid masonry, and ramparts from iwenty'^five to thirty-five feet in height and about the same in thick- ness, bristling with heavy cannon, round towers, loopholed walls, aiid massive gates recurring at certain distances. On the summit of the Ramparts from Cape Diamond to the Artillery Barracks is a broad covered-way or walk, used as a place of recreation by the in- habitants, and commanding a most agreeable view of the country towards the west. This passes over the top of St. John's and St. Louis Gate, where there is stationed a sergeant's guard. Above St. John's Gate there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The St. Charles gamboling, as it were, in the rays of the departing luminary, the light still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg until it fades away beyond the lofty moun- tains of Bonhomme and Tsounoiithuan, present an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendour.— The city, being defended on the land side by its ramparts, is protected on the other sides by a lofty wall and parapet, based on the cliff and commencing near the St. Charles at the Artillery Barracks. These form a very entcnsive V \i 72 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. range of buildings, the part within the Artillery-Gate being occupied as barracks by the officers and men of that distinguished corps with a guard and mess room. Tlie part without the Gate is used as magazines, storehouses, and offices for the Ordnance Department. These buildings were erected by the French before 1750 on the site of others which had formerly stood there. They are well secured against fire, and are nearly six hundred feet in length by about forty in depth. — Immediately adjoining the. Artillery Barracks, and con- T' cting the works on tht ''t ' .> their continuation along the St Charles, stands Palace-Ga; , li'iviiJ • a guard-house attached on the right. This has lately bee». r.ouii., ind is the most classical and beautiful of the five Gates, Though perfectly strong for all purposes of defence, it has an airy and light appearance, not unlike in design the gates of Pompeii. It stands at the northern extremity of Palace Street, wiiich was so called from its leading to the Intendanfs House or Palace, wliich formerly stood on the beach of the St. Charles out* side of the Gate, on the site of the present Queen's VVoodyard. This building was destroyed during the siege by the American troops un- der General Arnold in 1775. From Palace-Gate the fortifications are continued along the brow cf the cliff overlooking the mouth of tiic St. Charles until'they reach Hope-Gate, a distance of three hundred yards. A broad and level walk divides the outward wall from the possessions of the Community of the Hotel-Dieu. The wall near Hope-Gate and Guard-house is loopholed for musquetry. At Hope-Gale com- mences the gradual elevation of the ground which terminates at tiic eastern point of Cape Diamond. Beyond the Gate the wall is con- tinued until it reaches a point opposite St. George Street and the store house at the angle of the Seminary Garden. Here it reaches the perpendicular cliff Simlt au Matdot, or MateloPs (Sailor's)Zg(/jt), 30 called from a favourite dog of that name that there fell over the cliff, on part of which Champlain commenced his first settlement in 1608. From this eminence the Grand Battery, mounting a range of heavy guns carrying balls of thirty-.two pounds, commands the Basin and Harbour below. In front of the Grand Battery, which extends to the Bishop's Palace, and where the escarpment of the cliff is nearly three hundred feet above the water, the stone parapet CAiNADIAN GUIDE BOOK 73 occupied led corps ite is used parlment. on the site 11 secured ibout fortv and con- )ng the St led on the issical and 11 purposes in design of Palace nt's House harles out- yard. This troops un- catioiis arc I of the St. dred yards, possessiont* Hope- Gate •Gate com- lates at the i^all is con- iet and the 3 it reaches lor's)Zg/7p, II over the ttlement in ng a rangrt imands the cry, which lent of the ne parapet IS but a few feet high. The black artillery, as Professor Silliman (observes, " look like beasts of prey crouching and ready to leap upon their victims." — Close to the Bishop's Palace, long used as the place where the Provincial Legislature met previously to the re- union of the Canadas, isPrescott»Gate with its Guard-house. Under its arch is the principal avenue to the Lower Town by Mountain Street. It is protected by povv'crful defences, and by works which connect it on the right with the former Castle of St. Louis. Here the stone-rampart forms part of that ruin, and is supported by but- tresses built upon the solid rock, and immediately overlooking the liOwer Town, at an elevation of more than two hundred feet. To the south-west side of the Castle is the Government Garden, one hun- dred and eighty yards long by seventy broad, within which a small bat- tery commands part of the harbour. In front the fortifications are continued three hundred yards, until they reach the foot of the Glacis or acclivity towards Cape Diamond, crowned at that point by the IJcund Tower and Flagstaff. — The extent of the Ramparts towards the land-side, from the south-Avcst angle of the citadel to the cliff above the St. Charles, is stated to be eighteen hundred and thirty-seven yards. Within this rampart is the Esplanade, a level space covered with grass, between St. Louis and St. Jolm Gates. Llere are mount- ed the several guards on duty at the Citadel and other public build- ings each forenoon, except Sabbath, at eleven o'clock j and here occasional parades of the Garrison take place, particularly on the (Queen's birth-day. The circuit of the Fortifications enclosing the Upper Town is two miles and three quarters ; the total circumfer- ence outside the Ditches and space reserved by Government, on which no house can be built on the west side, is about three miles. —Generally speaking, the City may be said to be entirely surround- f (1 by a lofty and strong wall of hewn stone, constructed with elegance as well as with regard to durability. The castellated ap- pearance produced by the battlements, ditches, embrasures, round towers and gates, adds nuich to its grand and imposing effect from "without. There are five Gates, opening in different directions to the country, the suburbs, and the Lower Town. Towards the irouth-west are St, John's and St. Louis' Gates, protected by out- G 74 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 'i i ill m .» ', \ ■'\ ■■V - works of great strength and powerful combination. Through th«; latter is the road leading to the Plains of Abraham and the Race- course. On the left of this road, on the brow of a slight ascciil •\bout halfway to the Race-Stand, is one of the four Martello Towers erected at dillerent distances between the St. Lawrence an jting an endless variety of fantastic appearances. The habitans cross in canoes, and are frequently obliged to haul and push them forward among the blocks of ice. The ferrymen do their utmost io prevent the ice from taking, as it deprives tlicni of their usual meant; of livelihood while it lasts. It is a rare occurrence for the ice to be quite firm between Quebec and Pointe Levi. When this is the case, it is called a. pout or bridge; and a sort of jubilee is indulged in, and persons arc seen enjoying themselves in every direction by sleigh- ing, sliding, skating, curling, &c. A ready communication betwixt both shores then takes place, as the Grand Vorjer, or Chief Surveyor of Highways, marks out, by means of pine-branches as beacons, a road, over which hay, firewood, and other bulky articles are trans- ported in traincaux or sledges. A similar laying-out of roads takes place on the taking of the River at all the important thorouglifares, as in front of Montreal, Three Rivers, Stc. During the winter of 1848-9 the River has taken as firmly as it has done since 1816. The channel between the Isle of Orleans and the North Shore is frozen over annually, when the produce of that fertile spot can be conveyed to market. ^^ EXPEDITION OF 1759."* By the common consent of the world Quebec is for ever iden- tified Avilii the renown of the two great nations tliat contended for its possession ; and the history of this period will always be rcferreci to as equally interesting, attractive and important. The varied in- cidents of the expedition — the arrival before the town — tiie attack of the fire-ships — the fruitless engagement at Montniorenci — the bombardment from Point Levi — tlie landing under the Heights C'i' Abraham — the battle of the Plains — Uie death of two heroic leader.-^ — tiie surrender — the subsequent fight at Sillery — the siege by the French— and the arrival of the English fleet, form a series of spirit- stirring events, wliich possess the mind of the reader with the eager intcrest of vicissitude, as they in turn develope the great game ol • Extracted from Hawkin.s' Guide to Quebec. order cd by i)atteri lid. -nen, (liscip right w Oisrs, ofM. A barkati of tho l^awre ■lamag board CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 81 Tivar, played by the most skilful hands, and for the noblest stake ! The scene of this heroic drama, the actors, and the event will be for ever memorable. The talc has been handed down by various writers; but to do justice to the narration it requires the pen of Wolfe himself. Wolfe, having safely landed his army on the 27th June near the Church of St. Laurent on the Isle of Orleans, where they encamped in one line about a mile from the shore, proceeded to the west end of the Island to reconnoitre the position of the enemy. The view he then beheld was most magnificent and imposing. The French army ex- tended along the sloping ground upon the north shore, and occupied the heights of Beauport from Quebec on the right to the Cascades ol' iMontmorenci on the left. The village of Beauport rose in the centre among the battalions of old France 3 the right rested upon :he St. Charles with the beautiful village of Charlesbourg in its rear ; the left extended to the chasm at the Falls. The whole front was entrenched, and protected from the English cannon, while all accessible points along the shore were occupied and defended by batteries and by every means which the science of war provides. Beyond the right a bridge had been thrown over the St. Charles in order to communicate v» ith the town and garrison. This was protect- ed by tetes du poni and strong works at each end, as well as by two i)atterie3, of eight guns each, mounted upon hulks sunk in the chan » The French army was composed of about thirteen thousand men, six battalions of which were regulars, and the remainder well disciplined Canadian militia with some cavalry and Indians. The right was under the command of Brigadier General the Baron de St. Ours, the centre, of Brigadier General De Senezergues, and the left of Tvl. Hcrbin. The garrison was commanded by M. De Ramezay. Although the Fleet had safely arrived at the place of disem- barkation, no sooner were the troops on shore than it met with one of those storms of wind and rain which are frequent in the St. Lawrence. The hurricane was of such violence as to do great damage to the transports and boats of the fleet by their driving on board each other. 'J 82 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, It being a'jsoliitcly necessary for the combined operations of the two services that the EngUsh fchould possess the command of the basin, General Moncktoii, second in command, was delacheu on Uie night of the 29th with four battalions, with orders to land at Beaumont, an(' to clear the south shore from that village to Pointe- Levi, which post he was to occupy and fortify, a duty which lie accomplished with little opposition. Here he erected batteries and works, the remains of which may be traced at the present day. In the meantime Colonel Guy Carleton, afterwards Lord Dorchester^ established himself at the w extern point of the Isle of Orleans, where ho erected works for the defence of the magazines, stores, and hospitals. iVlontcalm, who too late perceived the importance of the works at Pointe Levi, sent a corps of sixteen hundred men against them ; but these troops, urduckily for themselves and for the English Gen- eral, who was anxious to defeat so large a detachment, fell into confusion, and, having fired upon each other instead of upon the enemy, returned in 'Uer discomiiture. General WVjlfe, perceiving that the ground to the eastward of the Fall of Montmorenci, on whicli rested the left flai.K' of h"^' French army, was higher than that en the enemy's side, deterir*ii;eu to take possession of it ; and, having pa : rd the North Cha:mei, he encamped there on the 9th July, not withoui f>c\(]\: skirmishing and considerable loss. Here he erected '^atttrit..'-: wiii-i greatly galled the left of the entrenchments, and conceived the design of attacking the French in their entrenchments. Tliis attack, which, looking at the difficulties of the ground, appears to have been carefully con- sidered and planned with judgment, took place on the 31st July. II failed through want of caution and excess of courage on the part of the grenadiers, although the grounding of the boats upon the ledge some distance from the shore, was doubtless the primary cause cf the J -Sister. The return of our loss at the battle of Montmorenci is stated vj \ ave b'::en one hundred and eighty-two killed and six Jmndred and fifty Avounded. Tin iuuur -t Montmorenci had made a deep impression upon the ffi'.i 1 vi ^'vcUb. lie had a spirit im^^atient of anticipated cen* : ft CANADIAN GUIDE liOOK. 85 jiurc, unable to bear disappointment where he wis conscious of having deserved success, and he cherished an eager (iesire to retrieve the laurels which he feared some might think had fallen from his brow. His situation, however, was such that he dosraircd of find- ing an opportunity J he was often heard to sigh, and observed to betray great inward agitation. His constitution, naturally delicate, gave way under his excitement : which, added to the great fatigues ho had undergone, brought on a fever and dysentery, and for some time totally disalded him. Such was the affection of the whole army for Wolfe that his sickness made a general impression upon them ; and, when his health, after ten day's severe illness, permitted um to return to the camp, and once more to visit the guards and posts as usual, they gave the strongest proofs of the most heartfelt joy ; and his presence infused fresh spirits into the troops. Every preparation having been made, and Admiral Saunders javing engaged to co-operate by a feigned attack upon the intrench- iicnts at Beauport, the evenifid day approached when the blow was to be struck. Hear Admiral Holmes had the command of the naval force employed in covering the disembarkation, the immediate man- ngement of which was entrusted to Captain Chads, a name to this day distinguished in the Koyal Navy. On the I2th September Gen. Wolfe ispued the following order : " On board His Majesty" s ship Sutherland. '•' The enemy's force is now divided : great scarcity of provi- sions is in their camp, and universal discontent among the Canadians. The second ofTicer in command is gone to Montreal, or St. John's ; which gives reason to think that General Amherst is advancing into the colony. A vigorous blow struck by the army at this juncture may determine the fate of Canada. Our troops below are in readi" ness to join us : all the light artillery and tools are embarked at Pointe Levi ; and the troops will land where the French seem least U) expect it. The first body that gets on shore is to march directly to the enemy, and drive them from any little post they may occupy. The officers must be careful that the succeeding bodies do not by any mistake fire upon those who go before them. The battalion* js* 84: CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. must form upon the upper ground witli expedition, and be ready h charge ^vhatever [)resents itself. When the artillery and troops ar( landed, a corps will be left to secure the landing place, while the rest march on, and endeavour to brinsr the French and Canadians ti, a battle. The otficers and men will remember what their country expects from them, and what a determined body of soldiers, inured to war, is capable of doing against five weak French battalions, mingled with disorderly peasantry. The soldiers must be attentive and obedient to their officers, and the oflicers resolute in the execu- tion of their duty." The plan adopted was, that the troops should be conveyed sonic distance up the river for the purpose of deceiving the enemy, and amusinir M. De Bougainville. They were afterwards in the night to drop down with the tiuv., and to land on the north shore, about a mile above Cape Diamond, in the expectation of being able to ascent! the heights of Abraham, and to gain the open ground westward of the city, whet-e it was most open to attack. Nothing could be more hazardous in the execution than this design : the slightest accident might derange the -.vhole course of the operatii !s j a night attack was always liable to mitichance : yet the plan was carried into effeci not only with complete success, but with singular ease and good fortune. At night on the 12th, the mem body qunrtered on the south shore was ordered to embark in flat-bottomed boats, and to proceed up the River with the tide of flood. The first divis.^n was compos- ed of the light infantry, conmianded by Lieutenant Colonel the Honourable William Howe, the nsgimcnts of Bragg, Kennedy,. Lascelles and An truther, with a detachment of Highlan.iois, and the Grenadiers of the E oval American Regiment, undor the com- mand of Brigcidiers General Monckton and Murray. The night was clear and star-light, and Bougainville, perceiving the boats, marched up the north bank of the river to prevent any landino-. About an hour before doy-light, the bo;its fell down the river witii the tide of eW/ with great rapidity by the help of oars, and keeping close to the shore. They were followed at some internal by the ship- ping, and both luckily escape! observation. About day-liglu on CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 85 verc obliged to pull tiicmselves up by ihe roots and boughs of trees, displaced a French guard at the lop luider the command of Captain De Verger, which defcsndcd the narrow path, and thereby enabled tho rest of the division to reach the summit. The boats in the incantimc had returned for the second division under Brigadier General Townshend, which arrived and land- ed in like good order. General Wolfe was nvith the first division, and he was one of tlie first on shore. On seeing the difficulty of ascending the precipice, he observed in a familii r strain to Captain Donald M'Donuld, a very gallant otticer of Fraser's Highlanders, who comuianded the advanced guard of the light infantry : — '* I don't believe there is any possibility of getting up j but you must do your endeavour." The exultation of Wolfe on thus finding liimsclf, with scarcely any loss, on the heights of Abraham, may easily be conceived. After more than two months of solicitude the object of his long and anxious wishes was before him ; his only remaining hope was that Montcalm would give him battle ; of the result he entertained no doubt. The hour of triumph so long s')ught for, so eagerly expected, was at hand ; he was determined that day to decide the supremacy of England or France, in America, before tlie walls of her most im* portant fortress. THE BATTLE OF THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM — DEATH OF WOLFE AND MONTCALM. Any one who visits the celebrated Plains of Abraham, the scene of this glorious figlit, equally rich in natural beauly and historic recollections, will admit that no site could be found better adapte :^1>^ // / /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^< # V \\ 6^ ) ^ I' 90 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 4 m . ii •«» shell within the precincts of the Ursulinc Convent, a fit resting-place for the remains of a man who died fighting for the honoui and defence of iiis country. The following regiments shared the glories of the day : — namely the I5th, 28th, 3jlh, 43rd, 47th, 48th, 58th, 60th, 2Md and 3rd battalions 78th Eraser's Highlanders, and the Grenadiers of tho 22nd, 40lh, and 45th. Total of all ranks, including General Officers, four thousand eiglit hundred and twenty-six, of whom sixty one were killed, and six hundred and three wounded. The French force, including Militia, amounted to seven thousand five hundred and twenty. The remains of W^olfe were conveyed to England for interment with all honour and respect on boaid the Royal William of eighty- four guns. On the 17th November, the body was landed at Ports-* mouth. During the solemnity all the honours that could be paid to the memory of a gallant officer were rendered to the remains of Wolfe. The corpse was privately interred at Greenwich on the 20th.* ♦ During o\ir residence in England, in 1841 j superintending the en- graving of llic Fion of the BattlPy we wt^re politely permitted by the sur- viving brancli of the family to visit the vault, which is under the parish Cliurch of Greenwich, It was with feelings which we cannot describe, that we placed the key in the door (over which is inscribed on a marble •lab, " The Family Fault o/ Major-Ganvral James IJ'offe^ ir.'O^") disclos- ing to us the resting-place of that illustrious Hero., Wc were accom- panied by a few friends, and two old veteran seamen of Greenwich Iloapital who solicited permission. Upwards of fourscore years had passed away since the memorable victory and glorious death. The vault exhibited to us three coffins, that of the Father, the Mother, and the Son :— we gently wiped the dust from the Coffin plate, and found the following unpretending inscription thereon :— Major General J A M E S W L F E, * Aged 32 Years, ' ' On the centre Coffin is the following inscription : — Mrs. HENRIETTA WOLFE, Died 26th Septr. 1764, Aged 60 Years. engmv ^usbe< CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 91 ng-p!acc 10 ur and -namely and 3rd rs of thn General lom sixty French hundred ntcrment )f eighty- at Ports'* )c paid to of Wolfe. Lh.* ng the cn- )y the sur- the parish t describe, namarbir ") disclos- re accom- [Jreenwich years had lalh. The other, and and found The news of the failure of Wolfe at Montmorenci reached England on the morning of the 16th October. It was made known to the public in an extraordinary Gazette of that date, and caused a general gloom. The satisfaction with which they received the glorious accounts of victory brought by Colonel Hale, on the same evening with the publication of the Gazette, may be well imagined. A day of pub- lic thanksgiving was set apart by authority for the signal success of His Majesty's arms. The House of Commons addressed His Majesty to erect a national monument to the memory of Wolfe in Westminster Abbey, which was carried into effect, and to this day remains an object of patriotic interest and exultation.* We take it for granted that our Tourist has no intention of terminating his tour with Quebec and its interesting scenery. For our own part, speaking from experience, we can assure him that a visit to the river Saguenay, unquestionably one of the most remarks able in many respects on this continent, will amply repay him for the money, time, and trouble which he may expend iii it. With the view of accomplishing this object, he will do well to ascertain on landing at Quebec how soon the steamer may start, which makes occasional trips to the Riviere du Loup and the Saguenay, that he may so arrange his excursions for a few days around the city as not to let slip this most convenient way of visiting the grand scenery of On the Coffin to the left is the following : — The Honble. Lieutenant Genl. EDWARD WOLFE, Died March 26th, 1759, Aged 74 Years. The vault was in perfect order, and no appearance of decay could be observed on the Coflins, save the ravages of the moth. Not a word was spoken, and all stood uncovered. Before retiring we placed a wreath of laurel upon the Coflln, and deposited in the vault a copy of the Quebec Mercury, ofzist November, 1839, containing a list of subscribers to our engraving commemorating the glorious victory and death. —.i4. Hawkins. * Hero terminate our extracts from Hawkins's valuable work on (Quebec, of which every traveller should possess himself. m 02 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. & I .» I » the noblest tributary of the St. Lawrence. If our Tourist should he of an accommodating spirit, desirous of adventures by land and flood, and of studying the characters of the Canadian people, he will find little difficulty in striking a bargain with some skipper, and transferring his luggage on board some one of the smacks or schooners that trade to and from the Saguenay. In sailing down the basin, which is between three and four miles wide, one cannot fail to be struck with the imposing appearance of the Citadel-city with its tin-covered cupolas, domes, and roofs. This capacious basin is ii; some places twenty-eight fathoms deep ; and its water has no saline taste, although the spring-tide ordinarily rises from seventeen to eighteen feet, and the neap-tide from thirteen to fourteen. About five miles below the city the River is divided into the North and South Channels by the Isle of Orleans, which is neprly twenty miles long and about five broad. Like the island of Montreal, it forms a county. It is next to it in size, and approaches it in fertility of soil, furnishing Quebec with large quantities of grain and most sorts of provisions. Its fruits, especially apples and plums, though attain- ing to a greater degree of perfection than elsewhere in the District of Quebec, are inferior to those of Montreal. It was originally called the Isle of Bacchus from the number of wild vines. A good road encompasses the whole island, and several cross it. It contains five parishes, three of which are watered by the South Channel. The churches and tidy villages of St. Laurent and St. Jean are situated close upon the shore. Patrick's Hole, a little to the west of the former, is a well sheltered cove, where outward-bound vessels frequently come to anchor, and wait final instructions for sailing. The highest part of the island is just above Patrick's Hole, about four miles from the western extremity. On the south side of this elevation is placed the second of the chain of thirteen telegraphs that during the last war extended from Quebec to Green Island, which lies opposite to the mouth of the Saguenay. These had been discon- tinued and taken down for .some years, but have since been re-estab- lished as far as Grossc Isle, for the purpose of communicating with the Quarantine Establishment there. In sailing down the River, the Tourist may be reminded that the trip to the head of steam-nari* CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 03 ^Mtion on the Saguenay is entirely in the District of Quebec, that the counties of Montmorenci and Sagiienay intervene betwixt the Fall of Montmorenci and the mouUi of the Sa;;uenay, the latter county cH-cupying, iio;vcver, double the frontai^e of the forinor, and that from near Pointe Levi the four ccunties of Bcllechasse, L'Islct, Kamour- aska, and Kiinouski extend in succession to the extreme District of (iaspc. A level tract of land, varyins^ in width, extends from the Kiver to a range of mountain?, forming a contiimation of the AUe- a:hanies and terminating the prospect in the direction of Maine State .md New Lrunswick. The greater portion of this tract is under I'ultivation, and presents a striking contrast with tlie dark hue of the forests in the receding back-ground. At a short distance from the siiore passes the highway, on either side of w hich is a succession of I'uttages and farm-houses, painted in a variety of hues, white pre* dominating. The dwdling-liouses are cf wood, and the roofs arc covered with thin pieces of ash, called shingles, which are nailed on m the same manner as slates in England. A parish-church with its tin-roof and belfry shining to the sun, (;vertopping the houses of a surrounding village, presents itself to the view at intervals of five or six miles. The seignicrics, that extend along shore, and were granted when Canada belonged lo France, are still chiefly possessed by I'Vench Canadians, According to the French laws the property cf parents is at their death divided among their children. Large farms have thereby been split into small ones, and the new occupants, for the same reasons which guided their faihers, have placed their dwell- ing-houses and their grangeSy or barns, on the road side, so that the 'fitire farming population, with the different tradespeople which such a popination require, are settled in a nearly contitmous line. From *li(! River are seen the fences, forming the boundary of farms of great length and of very disproportionate breadth. In some instances the breadth is only a sixtieth part of the length. A few miles below Patrick's Cove arc seen on th(> right sliore the churches of St. Michel and St. Vallier, near each of which is a telegraph station. On pass-* ing the eastern end of the Isle of Orleans the Hiver widens to eleven and twelve miles, and is beautifully varied by groups of islands, particularly those lying off the west end of Crane Island. Here 04 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. ' 'I J MM J tM {' «' .■: ifi Cape Tourment is seen rearing its summit up to the height of eighteen hundred feet, and the lofty mountains behind bound the distant view on the north. On the southern side of Grosse Isle (Big Island, so called comparatively with many smaller ones around) i.^ the Quarantine Establishment, off which aV! merchant vessels arr obliged to anchor till the^y undergo examination by the Medical Superintendant appointed by Government, and, if not detained arc allowed to proceed to Quebec. At the Lazaretto here five thousand emigrants died of ship-fever in 1847. In connection with this state- ment it is lamentable to be recorded, that about four thousand emi- grants perished at Montreal, and that about twenty thousand, chiefly Irish, perished either at sea or in the Government sheds of this Pro* vince in 1847. Several medical men and clergymen, who caught the infection during the discharge of their perilous duty, fell victims, A little below are seen the church and village of St. Thomas on the Riviere du Sud, over which is built a handsome bridge, called the * Regent's Bridge'. On the other side of this river is a church dedi- cated to St. Peter. The soil in this locality is so productive, especially in corn of every species, that it has obtained for it the distinguishinp; epithet of the *•' Granary of the Lower District." Crane Island and Little Goose Island, which at high water appear two islands, arc at low water connected by an isthmus affording ready passage in charrettes, kc. They are together about twelve miles in length, and are well peopled and cultivated, producing wheat much beyond their own consumption. The ndarshes produce abundance of fine hay. and afford pasture sujfficient for upwards of two thousand head of cattle. These islands were originally appendages of the seigniory ol Riviere du Sud, but many years ago became the property cf Mr. MTherson, and are now generally called *' MTherson's Island." The residence of the proprietrix is at the N- E. end. On the nortli side is a church with a village. Soon is seen the church of L'Islct de St. Jean on a point of land, which is completely isolated at higli water. Hence has arisen the name of the seigniory, which has ex- tended itself to the county, which fronts the River for thirty-eight miles. — It is wortliy of notice that the St. Lawrence, in its course from the Isle of Orleans to beyond the mouth of the Saguenay, is CANADIAN GUIDE BOOk. 95 aguenay, i5 irregularly divided into two or three channels, called the North, Middle and South, by a series of islands connected with each other by rocky or sandy formations, many of which are visible at low water. This circumstance, and that of thoals frequently stretching out from the southern shore, narrow in many places the deep water, and render the navigation both intricate and dan- gerous. This is eminently the case with the Channel beyond th« Uiviere du Sud, named the Traverse. Though the River is here ihirteen miles across, yet the Isle aux Coudrcs (Filbert Island), tho shoal of St. Roch, and that called the English Bank, so interrupt the fair-way that this passage, which is usually chosen by pilots, do€i not exceed in width seventeen hundred or eighteen hundred yards between the buoys that mark the edge of the shoals. This traverse, or the " Narrows," presents the most intricate navigation below Quebec from the number, strength, and irregularity of the currents. The ebb-tide runs at the rate of seven knots, and the flood at the rate of five or six, and there is no anchorage. On this account large vessels require to consult the proper time of the tide for passing with- out accident. The distance from Quebec to the Light-vessel at the Traverse is fifty "five miles. Coudres Island is the largest below Quebec except Orleans. It was settled at a very early period, forms a parish by itself, and has a church. It is tolerably fertile, but re- quires its produce for its own population. It belongs to the eccle- siasticsof the Seminary of Quebec, to whom it was granted in 1687. After passing the Traverse the settlements on St. Paul's Bay on the North Shore, enclosed within an amphitheatre of mountains, pre- sent themselves to view. Here commences the county of Kamou- raska, which fronts the River for thirty miles. The tract of country watered by the Ouelle is very productive and regularly transports to Quebec many marketable articles. Near the entrance of the Oiiellc into the St. Lawrence a porpoise fishery was once carried on to a considerable extent. The village of Kamouraska is in summer much enlivened by visitants, who resort to it for sea-bathing. It has the reputation of being one of the healthiest spots in the Lower Province. The islands of Kamouraska are of little value, being almost bare rocks. They afford shelter, however, in stormy weather W !<■! 96 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. I I ■J to numbers of small vessels that arc continually passing hereabout.^ The general aspcet oi'the counfry here deserves the attention of thr geological observer. From the bunk of the Kiver a very level tract stretches almost to the foot of the mountainous range behind. The even surface ol'thid tract is in various parts singularly embosticd with abrupt masses of granite, varying from twenty to thirty yards of perpendicular height, and embracing a circumference of three or four acres and upwards. TIh y are destitute of anything like a covering of soil, and produce only dwarf pine-trees and crecpin"; shrubs. On reflecting that the bed of the River is almost dry between the Kamouraska Islands and the shore at low Avater, and contrast' ing the position, appearance, and striking resemblance of these isolated mounds on terra Jinndw'dh the adjoining islands, tiie geol- ogist is naturally led to the conclusion, that this level tract was at some period submerged beneath the more widely spreading waves of " the mighty St. Lawrence," and that the elevations in question formed islands exposed to the acticn of its waters. Between Ka^ mouraska and River du Loup, a distance of a dozeji miles, lie the Pilgrims, a group of five islands. At low water carts can pass from the mainland to this group and the Kamouraska one. Riviere Du Loup contains about a thousand inhabitants, there being a larger pro- portion of English and Scotch than is usually found in the smaller towns of Canada East. There is an Episcopal Church here, perhaps the only one eastward of Quebec. About a mile in the rear is a picturesque waterfall cf about eighty or one hundred feet. To this place and Cacona, whieli lies about ten miles below, many families resort for the benefit of sea-bathing. Cacona is a rocky peninsula, three hundred and fifty feet high, being connected with the main- land by a marshy istlunus. At Riviere du Loup commences the Grand Portage Road, which leads to Lake Teniiscouata, a distance of thirty-six miles. liencc is the route, via the Rivers Madawaska and St. John, to St. John in New Brunswick, and Halifax. The situa- tion of Du Loup is more romantic, but Cac aa has the advantage of purer and stronger water. Both command an extensive prospect of the St. Liawrence, -which is here upwards of twenty miles wide, gtudded with islands, and bounded on the opposite shore by lofty and %M>i CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 07 ornabouts ion of th( level tract iritl. The josfed with yards of thrcf; or iiig like a .1 creeping ry between d contrasl- of these, 3, the geol- tract was ding waves ill question tween Ka» lies, lie the 1 pass from Riviere Du , larger pro- Lhe smaller Tc, perhaps tie rear is a it. To this my families • peninsula, the main- menecs the . distance ol" iwaska and The situa- dvantage of prospect of miles wide, jy lofty and rugged mountains. The sojourner is enlivened by the sight of nu- merous large vessels constantly navigating the bread expanse. Green Island lies off Cacona, and has a light-house sixty feet above the sea. The light is fixed, and can be seen at the distance of from twelve to seventeen miles, according to the height of the observer's eye from ten to sixty feet. The light is shown from sunset to sunrise between the I5th of April and the lOth of December. From this light-house to the light-vessel at the Traverse is fifty-four miles ; and for the first thirty miles above, the River is divided into the North and South Channels by numerous islets with banks and reefs attached to them. Among these we may mention Hare Island, which is seven miles long in the direc- tion of the River, and the three Brandy Pots, offwhich vessels bound down, and waiting for a wind or the tide, usually rendezvous. These islands are upwards of one hundred miles from Quebec. It is Avorthy of notice that the islands, reefs, and ridges along the Southern Shore from Quebec downwards, are of gray-wacke and slate. These southern ridges only rise a few hundred feet, while the granitic mountains of the North Shore in some parts exceed an elevation of two thousand feet above the River. — Before transporting our Tourist to the Saguenay, we notice briefly the North Shore from that river to Cape Tourment. In most parts granitic hills rise immediately from the River, forming steep or precipitous headlands. Near the western entrance of the Saguenay these hills do not exceed one thousand feet in height, but those of Eboulemens attain an elevation of two thousand five hundred and forty-seven feet above the tide-waters of the River, The cliffs at cither entrance of the Saguenay are of clay. Capes Basque, Dogs, Salmon, and Eagle are descried in succession, and present the same bold and precipitous features. A little east- ward from the last the Settlements begin, and continue along the shore to Quebec. A few miles beyond is Murray Bay, at the head of which is a village with a church delightfully situated at the mouth of a river, on which are grist and saw^inills. Few places in Canada can be justly compared with this in beauty of scenery. Here lumber is shipped to a considerable amount. Malbay and Eboule- mens Bays lie south-west. Slight shocks of earthquakes are ^ occasionally felt here, and in their neighbourhood. It is remarked I * ih 08 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. M "> ■t\ . M'l i f^' «. .?« that for six milca below, and from off Murray Bay to Cap*. Diablo on the South Shore, a distance of ten and a half inile«, the Kiver is clear from detuchcd shoals, and has deep water from side to side. The want of ijood anchorage renders this part of the North Channel from Sagucnuy to Murray Bay unfit for general use. In the other channel a vessel can anchor almost anywhere above Cacona. — The St. Lawrence at its junction with the h'aguenay is two and a half miles broud between Point Vaches and Alouette^ Point at either entrance. It is a remarkable circumstance that thv depth of the former at this place is two hundred and fifty feet, while that of the latter is nearly a thout and ; so that, should the bed of the St. Lawrence become dry, there would remain a depth of upwards of seven hundred feet in the ^Su^^ucnay. A little above Point Vaches at the cast entrance is situated Tadousac, on a semi-circular terrace al the top of a beautiful bay with a sandy beach, hemmed in by moun- tains of solid rock, and thus presenting a secure retreat from almOHt every wind, though the entrance to vessels descending the St Law- rence is somewhat intricate. Tadousac is^interesting from the circum- stance of its having been at an early pericd the capital of the iVench Settlements, and on that account always called at by the first explorers of the Great Kiver. It is the principal trading-port of the Hudson's Bay Company below Quebec, who nominally occupy the whole tract of country lying between the Saguenay and the North Shore of tlve St. Lawrence. This company, in addition to other large tracts of country, now represents a body called the King's Posts' Company, that early obtained a lease of the territory from the French Govern- ment, under the title of '•' The Domaine," with the exclusive right of trading, hunting, and fishing. Mere is the ruin of a religious estab- lishment of the Jesuits, which is considered to have been the first build' ing of stone and mortar on the Continent of North America. There is still standing in excellent repair a chapel, ^hich is understood U) have been built by Jesuit Missionaries among the Indians. About a mile and a half hence are pointed out some fiat lands, which are said to have been the gardens of the Jesuits. The few houses composing the village are chiefly occupied by Indians in the employ of the Company- About half a mile to the north is the e\ten;9ive lumbering cstablisU- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 91) rr.rnt of William Price, Esq., of Quebec. Thii§ spot is the principal port on the Sae;uenay. It may be noticed here tliut this gentleman has cstubliiilied unci carries on all the saw-mills on the Saguenay iind Lower St. Lawrence. He gives employment tf) upwards of two thousand men, and sends annually to Britain about otic hundred Hhip-loads of timber in the shape of deals. From Pointc aux Alou- cttcs (Lark Point) at the western entrance to Grand Bay, a distance of sixty miles, the scenery on either bank is acknowledged unrival' led for magnificent grandeur and wildness, whilst tlic river, vary- ing in width seldom more than from one to two miles, presents an imrufilcd surface over a depth not less in many parts than a thousand feet. The shores present a steep rocky front, composed chiefly of granite, and thinly clad with pines, birches, and other trees of nor" them climes. At a few intervals arc seen small elearancco at the head of coves, where saw-mills have been erected. Into these coves are discharged the waters of rapid tributaries, flowing through vallies generally capable of cultivation, altliough thickly wooded. The dark naked bluffs, which every bend brings in view, are generally about eight hundred feet in height, while some shoot up beyond fifteen hundred. Of tliis description are Cape Eternity, Point Trinity, the Tableau, and La Tete du Boule. Within a few feet of these precipitous shores the depth is usually as great as to* wards the middle of the channel. Evcr-and anr)n the eye is attracted by the flight of an eagle sweeping along the summits of these beet- ling cliflsj or by salmon leaping into the air for their insect food, whilst numerous seals are seen popping their dark heads out of the waters, and white porpoises in droves tumbling their huge bodies. Nearly fifty miles up, the Sague .y turns suddenly to the northward be- tween Cape East and Cape W^est, a beautiful expanse receding from the west bank to the distance of nearly ten miles. At its extremity is situated a village, at the mouth of a small river, upon which is a large saw-mill, giving employment to a number of men. The progress of this settlement was considerably retarded by a de« structivc fire in 1846. There is a Roman Catholic Church in the village ; and some fine farms are springing up at different points on the Bay. It is said that the Bay was originally called " Ah ! Ah !" 100 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK» or " Ha ! lla !" descriptive of the surprise which was cxpericnceil by the first French explorers, wiicn they ascertiiined Ihut this expanse, instead of crinductiiic; up Uie noble river, had no other outlet except the one by which they hud cnU;red it. Hence to the trading-port of Chlcoutiini, wliich by land is ubf)ut ten miles distant, but upwards ol twenty by water, the river is comparatively shallow, and tastes fresh when the tide is out. Chicoutinii is an important trading-port, con> taining two settlements about two miles apart, and has a population of upwards of four iiundrcd, chiefly French Canadians employed in lumbering. It has been observed that grain ripens earlier in this locality than around Quebec. In the vicinity there stands on an eminence a small rude Catholic Church almost entire, but stripped of all its ornaments except a crucifix and a few candle-sticks. It is said to have been constructed by Jesuit nassionaries upwards of u century ago. Several of these were buried in the church, and the tombstones may still be seen. • In the belfry is a bell, on which is an inscription that has hitherto battled the learned of Canada to explain or translate. About fd'ty miles above Chicoutinii, theSaguenay issues from Lake St. John, which is about forty miles long, and receives eleven large rivers. The country surrounding the Lake is well tim- bered, and rather level, and holding out the prospect of being well adapted for agriculture, while the climate is said to be far preferable to that of the sea-coast of the St. Lawrence. The only outlet of the Lake besides the Saguenay is the Metabcthshuan, the waters of which, afier passing the expanse of Lake Kiguagomi, become the Chicoutinii, and unite with those of the Saguenay near the village of Chicoutinii. The portion of the Saguenay from this village to the Lake is unavailable on account of the numerous falls and rapids, and the Chicoutimi affords a very circuitous communication by boat» through the Lake Kiguagomi and the River Metabcthshuan. The influence of the tide is felt as far up as the Rapid of Terre Rompue, six miles above Chicoutimi. The ordinary spring-tides rise seven- teen feet at Tadousac, and twelve at Chicoutimi. To this point schooners and steamers can ascend with tlie assistance of flood-tide, and the largest ships to Point Roches, fifty-seven miles up. At the mouth of the Metabcthshuan on the south shore of Lake St. John CANAt))AN GUIDE ))00R. 101 II situated one of the Ki <^ m PostB, leased by the Hudson 'tt Bay Coin« pany. It wsa cstabliithed by the Jesuit missionaricH in the sixteenth rentury, and traced of their cultivation still rrniuin. On both chores of the Suguenay at frequent intervals occur good anchorages fur vessels. Chicoutiini, the name ivhich the Indians originally gave to this deep tributary of tlie CIreat Kiver, is fcaid to denote JJeep water, while the name imposed on it by the Jesuit missionaries in Sagucnay (Sacncz), the interpretation of wiiich is Nose of the Sack» Tadousae i^ a transposed corruption of Saguenay- V k, i II 12 i% * ♦ 102 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. U) \ APPENDIX. ('.■-t i'> i fli ;n .?*►'■ iiii- ■ THE OTTAWA, CALEDONIA SPRINGS, BYTOWN, ETC. As the romantic scenery of*the Ottawa, especially m the neigh- bourhood of Bytown, and the benefits resulting Ironi the use of the Caledonia Springs, deservedly induce numerous tourists and invalids to visi^ these localities every season, we subjoin a brief notice. With this view the passenger will leave the terminus of the Rail-road at Montreal for Lachine at eight, A. M. At Lachine he embarks in the steamer for Point Fortune, which is distant upwards of forty miles on the south side of the Ottawa. He proceeds for a short time along the north shore of the expansion of the St. Lawrence, called Lake St. Louis, passing on the right Pointe Claire, and to the left Isle Perrot, so called after the Sieur to whom it wa.s originally grant- ed. The island is seven miles long by three in width, is tolerably well cultivated, and has ferries to the Island of Montreal and the mainland. It contains a church. At the south-western extremity of the Island of Montreal, the traveller passes through the St. Anne's lock, thus avoiding the Rapid celebrated in the * Canadian Boat Song,'* and enters the Lake of Two Mountains, into which the • On account of the frequen*, communication betwixt the islands and mainland at the confluencct; of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, great numbers of Canadian habitans along the shores, instead of at* tending to agricultural pursuits, follow the occupation of voyageurs. They are much employed in managing the large rafts of lumber that are yearly floated down the Ottawa and St. Lawrence to Que- bec, and many accompany the arduous expeditions of the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company to the North West. The flourishing village that surrounds the church of St. Anne mainly owes its cm- m f :t CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 103 ■' Ottawa widens before contributing its vast influx of waters to the St. Lawrence. This lake is twenty -four miles long and in some parts six miles wide. In its lower part is soon seen Isle Bizare, so named from the Seigneur to whom it was originally granted. It is well cultivated, and is four miles long by two in breadth. There is no church or village in the island. North of Isle Bizare extends Isle Jesus or Jean, parallel to that of Montreal. It is possessed by the Bishop and Ecclesiastics of the Seminary of Quebec. It was origin- aliy named L'Isle de Montmagny, in honour of Champlain'" im- mediate successor in the administration, who rendered himself such a favourite with the Indians that they continued ever after to apply '0 the French Governors the title of OninlhiOi which signifies Oreat tence and support to tlie contributions of the Canadian voyageurs, who seldom fail to pay their offerings at the shrine of St. Anne befoi^e engaging in any enterprise. Captain Franklin mentions that one of his Canadians, when nearly two thousand miles distant, re- quested an advance of wages that an additional offering might be transmitted by the hands of a friend to the shrine of his titular saint, St. Anne. Premising that the Ottawaused to be called the Uttawa, we subjoin Moore's well known verses. CANADIAN BOAT SONG. Faintly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time ; Soon as the woods on shore look dim. We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. Row, brothers, row ! the stream runs fast. The rapids are near, and the dsy-light's past. Why should we yet our sail unfurl 1 There is not a breath the blue wave to curl But, when the wind blows off the .«' lore, Oh, sweetly we'll rest our weary oai . Blow; breezes, blow, &c. Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon ; Saint of this green isle, hear our prayer, Grant us cool heavens and favouring air« Blow, breezes, blow, &c. 104 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 1 ■ ■ 1 Ir 1 y'' ' M:^' I I : r ■■ Mountain and corresponds to Montmagny ; but the reverend prrantees bestowed upon it the present appellation. It contains two parishes and has several corn and saw-mills. It is upwards of twenty miles in length by five in breadth, and belongs to the county of Terrebonne. It is level and well cultivated, and contains a population of about ten thousand. — It maybe noticed here that Ihe Ottawa, or Grand River, as it is sometimes called, issues from Lake Temiscaming, which is situated to the north of Lake Huron, and after a south-eastern course of about four hundred and fifty miles joins the St. Lawrence, forming a boundary betwixt the Upper and Lower Provinces. On the north shore of the Lake of Two Mountains are settlements of Algonquin and Iroquois Indians, numbering about one thousand. They have adopted many Canadian customs and speak French well. They are Roman Catholics, and have a school conducted by a French Canadian. One of the two conspicuous mountains that give name to the county of Two Mountains is called Mount Calvaire or Calvary, on the summit of which are the remains of some build* ings that have long borne the appellation of the Seven Chapels, — On landing at Point Fortune the passenger is distant twenty-seven miles from the Springs, for which he will find the stage in readiness to depart, and which, having dined on board the steam-boat, he will reach in time for tea. The discovery of the Mineral Springs at the village of Caledonia has been the sole cause of the formation of a settlement here. The Hon. Mr. Grant first noticed the peculiar qual- ities Ji the Spring about 1806, whilst he was beaver-hunting. It is remarkable that at that time there remained vestiges that the springs had been known to, and appreciated by, the Aborigines, as a beaten track led to their source, and the trees around were inscribeU with rude hieroglyphical figures. This circu.nstance, however, has been observed to mark mineral springs elsewhere in the Province. A settler of the name of Kellogg, while engaged in deer-hunting, was struck with the singular smell and taste of the waters, the use of which'convinced him of their medicinal qualities. He recommended their use to his neighbours, who began by^and-by to resort to them in considerable numbers. Seeing that the Springs might be made a source of profit to I^uiself^ Kellogg erected a shanty upon the spot, «i CANADIAN GUIDE BOOC. 105 and charged a small fee for the liberty of using the waters. They now assumed the character of a Spa, and attracted invalids from some distance. A house was erected for the accommodation of visitors, and llje wonderful efficacyof the waters was more and more acknowledg- ed. In 1835 they were purchased by Mr. Lemuel Cushino;, who erect- ed a Hotel in the hope that a better class of visitors might be induced u) resort thither. Up to this period little had been done towards im- proving the roads leading to Caledonia, and still less towards attract'- ing visitors to prolong their stay by doing somewhat for tlie surround ^ ing locality. At length the property in 1836 came into the possession of William Parker, Esq., who immediately commenced improve- ments by clearing and building. The springs were secured from the drainings of the land, cleaned out, and encased. In 1837 the land in the vicinity was laid out in lots for a village, having a large pub- lic square in the centre. Besides the erection of a well stocked store, and of a large hotel, a post-office was established, and a carriage-road opened through the woods to the Settlement. In June of 1838 the Hotel, called " The Canada liouse,^' and capa- ble of accommodating one hundred persons, was opened under favourable circumst.*iices, and received a great influx cI visit- •rs. A batlihouse also was erected, and an octagon temple over the Gas-spring. The value of the land had now advanced fifty per cent, several shops had sprung into existence, and the Caledonia Springs held out most encouraging prospects of success, when a most uiitoward event occurred, which seemed to have inflicted a mortal wound on the proprietor's enterprising exertions. The new hotel nas entirely destroyed by fire in a single night, a !it,tle more than a month after it was opened. So convinced, however, were the visit- ors of the benefits they had received from the use of the waters, that most preferred to remain and put up with such lodgings as could be hastily prepared, than to forego these benefits by returning home. The proprietor was thereby so encouraged that, when winter set in, the entire frame of the new hotel was completed upon the site of the one destroyed. In order to have the means of suitably finishing and I'urnishing the hotel, and continuing further improvements, he had re** course to the sale of one hundred building lots, that had been already I . 5 f:i lOG CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. I ' f. laid out around the Springs. These lots were valued at £25 each, and the purchaser? had their chances of location by a tirage au sort* The undertaking proved successful, and the drawing took place at Montreal in March of 1839. Through the liberal patronage of many influential persons in both Provinces, the proprietor was thus enabled to throw open the present splendid hotel to the public in the follow- ing July, and througliout the season began to see some accomplish- ment of his hopes, and to derive some reward from his great exertions and outlay. By a second iirage. /tu sort at Montreal in June of 1840, the terms of which we cannot now state, Mr. Parker was en- abled to realize a large sum, the whole of which was expended in making various alterations and additions to the attractions of the Spa. Besides the enlargement of the Hotel and the improvement of the Baths, a billiard-room a -1 ball-alley were built and furnished, a weekly ^newspaper, called " Life at the Springs," was established, and a church and school-house erected. Since that time improve- ments have been made each successive year. Among these we may mention the circular railroad. It bears two cars, traversing in opposite directions, and carrying each two persons ; they are impel- led by the riders, and thus aiford amusement and healthful exercise. A well beaten race-course encircles the property, and affords an arena for matches among the visitors or a riding-ground for exercise. The spacious galleries around the Hotel command a view of its entire extent. Gentlemen fond of fishing and shooting can find good em- ployment for rod and gun. The lawn is at hand for cricket, quoits, and ** la grace.^' There is a boarded walk through the woods to the New Springy which is distant more than two miles. There are four Springs, called the Saline, Sulphur, Gas, and Intermittent. The water is bottled and exported in large quantities. For full particu- lars of the history, rise, and progress of the Caledonia Springs, we must refer the reader to Mr. Parker's pamphlet, in which has been adduced ample attestation of the efficacy of the waters in the cure of rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, dyspepsia, liver complaint, &c. &c. The Springs' property has within the last three years passed into the hands of John L. Wilkinson, Esq. The Canada House is now leased by Mr. William Scobie^ formerly of the Catskill Mountain Hotel, CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 107 £25 each, qe au sort, )k place at ge of many lus enabled the follow- accomplish- at exertions in June of cer was en- ixpended in tions of the irovement of furnished, a established, ne improve- lese we may raversing in jy are impel- iful exercise, d affords an for exercise V of its entire nd good em- cket, quoits, woods to the here are four dttent. The full particu- L Springs, we Ich has been n the cure of lint, &c. &c. issed into the is now leased intain Hotel, whose management in former seasons gave much satisfaction. — We shall now transport our Tourist back to Point Fortune, and intro- duce him to the scenery of the Ottawa above that point. Be- fore doing so, it is proper for him to notice that one county of Lower Canada occupies the extreme tongue of the peninsula formed by the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, and is thus disjoined entirely from the rest of the Lower Province. It is named after the Marquis de Vaudreuil, who was Governor from 1705 to 1726. It contains the pleasant villages of the Cedars and Coteau du Lac on the St. Law- rence, and Vaudreuil and Iligaud on tlie Ottawa. Between this county and the Uideau River or Canal lies the Ottawa District, com- prising the counties of Prescott and Russell. This district is settled by a very mixed population, that are much more engaged in getting out lumber for the Quebec market than in improving the soil. In Hav/kesbury West is the most extensive establishment for sawing lumber in Canada West, furnishing employment to above two hundred hands. There is also a large establishment at Hawkesbury East, containing grist, oatmeal, and saw-mills. From Point Fortune the Tourist is conveyed by stage to L'Orignal, which is the District town. It is mainly supported by the offices of the District being kept here, and by the transit of passengers. The population does not amount to three hundred. The descent of the Ottawa from L'Orignal to Point Fortune contains rapids of such a description as precludes the ascent of steam-boats or other vessels. On the opposite shore Government constructed the Grenville Canal for the purpose of avoiding the three successive obstacles, — the Carillon Rapids, the Chute a Blondeau, and Long Sault. It is divided into three corre- sponding parts, and cost JC267,254. The locks are one hundred and tliirty-four feet long, and thirty-three broad. From L'Orignal the steamer takes passengers without interruption to Bytown, a distance of sixty miles. The scenery on the Ottawa is frequently magnificent, and particularly in tlie neighbourhood of Bytown. The country on its banks is not generally well adapted for agriculture. It derives its principal importance from the immense quantity of pine-timber felled on its banks and those of its tributaries. Down this river is con- veyed the principal portion of the timber exported from Canada to :.;n M ^r^ 1 ,5 108 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 4 ■1 f '•; k-: m. m ' ..It' ■' _ f .J ? : !■ .' ■i ■ 1 ! J f t^n ■ ?'■ Im ■i , ' ; 1 i i^:- li Great Britain. A vast number of hands are employed in its prepar- ation during the long winter, and in rafting it to Quebec during the summer. In the prosecution of the latter occupation not a few perila are encountered in the navigation of the rapids, even when committfo to the most experienced voyagenrs. It is indeed a gay sight to be. hold on the broad expanse of the St. Lawrence under a cloudless sky a fleet of these rafts, manned each by some twenty rowers or more, striking their huge oars in cadence, and enlivening their toils witii popular airs and hymns, but chiefly with the refrain (chorus) of Jj la Claire Fontaine.* They sometimes take advantage of a favoura- ble wind by erecting across the raft a wall of perpendicular deals. The rafts are generally anchored at night, and the hardy raftsmen * A LA. CLAIRE FONTAINE. 1 A la claire Fontaine M'en allant promener, J'ai trouvo I'eau si belle Que Je me suis baigiiu ; II y a bngtcmps que je t'aime, Jamais je ne t'oublierai. 2 J'ai trouv6 I'eau si belle Que je me suis baignc, Et c'est au pied d'un chene Que je me suis repos6 ; 11 y a longtenips, he. he. 3 Et c'est au pied d'un chene Que je me suis repose ; Sur la plus haute branche he rossignol chantait ; II y a longtemps, &c. &c. 3 Sur la plus haute branche Le rossignol chantait : — — Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as le coeur gai ; 11 y a longtemps, &g. &c. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 109 repose in their plank shanties. Sometimes, however, rafts may be seen floating quietly down the stream during the still night, while brilliant fires light up the figures of the raftsmen. Within these few years much has been done to facilitate and assure the passage of lum- ber down the Ottawa by the construction oC slides and dams, and by the removal of many obstructions, such as rocks, &c. The four following slides, viz., the Madawaska, Mountain, Calumet, and Joachim, cost £24,438 2s 3d. Bytown is the head-quarters of the lumberers, upon whom it principally depends for support. It in 5 Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as Ic coeur gai ; Tu as le coeur a, rire, Moi je I'ai a, pleurer ; II y a longtemps, Sec. &c. 6 Tu as le cceur h rire, Moi je I'ai &, pleurer :| J'ai perdu ma maitresse I Sans pouvoir la trouver j II y a lungtemps, &c. &c. 7 J'ai perdu ma maitresse, Sans pouvoir la trouver ; Pour un bouquet de rose Que je lui refusal ; 11 y a longtemps, &c. &,c. 8 Pour un bouquet de rose Que je lui refusal ; Je voudrais que la rose Fut encore au rosier ; U y a longtemps, &c. &c. 9 Je voudrais que la rose Fut encore au rosier, Et que le rosier mdme Fikt dans la mer jete. 11 y a longtemps, &c. Sec. ! .# i m VA-> ' h; 110 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, V: i':.-. situated at the mouth of the Rideau River or Canal, and is named in honour of Colonel By, its able engineer. The large house, which the enterprising colonel occupied for several years, was burnt to the ground last year (1848) to the universal regret of the inhabitants. By town is the District-town of Dalhousie, and contains a popula- tion of nearly ten thousand. It is known as Upper and Lower Bytown. The former is situated about half a mile higher up the river, and on considerably higher ground. The land on which it is erected, together with a portion of that composing the Lower Town, was purchased some years ago for Jb"80, and is now computed to be worth upwards of £50,000. The appearance of the town has recently been much improved by the erection of several handsome stone build- ings. A fine single-arched bridge of hewn stone, called the " Sappers and Miners," is thrown over the Rideau Canal, connecting the Towns. Kight handsome locks have been constructed to overcome the fall of thirty-four feet in the River. The Barracks, which occupy a com* manding situation between the Towns, are garrisoned by a company of Riflea. From the Barrack»Hill is commanded a magnificent view, embracing the Chaudiere Falls, the Rapids above them, the Union Suspension Bridge (which connects Upper and Lower Canada, and cost £17,133 17s. 5d.), and the Mountains to the North, with the Ottawa, a hundred and fifty feet below, gliding on in its winding course, dotted with numerous rafts, till it is lost in the distance. In the Upper Town are agencies of the following banks, viz., Mon- treal Bank, Bank of British North America, City Bank of Montreal, Commercial Bank, and Upper Canada Bank. In it are three churches, the Episcopal, Presbyterian in connexion with the Church of Scotland, and Methodist. The Lower Town is chiefly inhabit- ed by Irish and French Canadians, the latter amounting to about a third. It contains the following places of worship, — the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which is well worthy of a visit, Free Church, Baptist, and two Methodist. Here, also, are a Roman Catholic College and Nunnery. Bytown has recently become the official res- idence of a Roman Catholic Bishop. It sends a representative to the Legislative Assembly. We regret to understand that the Coni» msrcial Reading-room, and Mercantile Library Association. H ;¥«s ; CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. HI which were in existence a few years ago, are now defunct. The Mechanic's Institute is flourishing, in uhich lectures arc generally delivered each week during tlie winter. Three weekly newspapers are published. The principal hotels are Doran's and M 'Arthur's. Slides arc now constructed on both sides of tiie river for the passage of rafts. Here is measured all the timber that has been cut on Crown Lands above, and the owner enters into a bond for the payment of the duties at Quebec. In 1844 the quantity of timber brought down amounted to the estimated value of £256,356 16s. and the duty thereupon was i,23,80i> 9s. 3d. The timber cut on private lands may be estimated about one-third of the above, or £85,399 7s. 2d., making the total £341,756 2s. 2d. New Edin. burgh, which is about two miles distant from Bytown, contains, besides an extensive cloth-factory, carding, deal, and flour-mills, a distillery, and other works. They are owned by the Hon. Thomas Mackay, who resides at the handsome mansion of Rideau Hall. Perhaps no place in Canada affords a better field to the sportsman with gun or rod than the vicinity of Bytown. Trout of every size from one to twenty pounds are abundant ; bass, pickerel, pike, and white fish are superabundant. In the spring and fall there is excel- lent duek-'shooting: ; in winter partridges, woodcocks, &.c, abound ; and a two days' journey on snowshoes will bring tlie sportsman to the haunts of the moose, while deer are found in the immediate vicinity. — Before accompanying the Tourist along the Upper Otta- wa, the romantic scenery of which has of late years been attracting not a few visitors, we notice briefly the Rideau Canal. This canal was constructed by Government chiefly for military pur- poses, with the view of transporting supplies and stores from the Lower to the Upper Province by an interior line not exposed to attack from an enemy. It forms a communication betwixt Bytown and Kingston, a distance of about one hundred and thirty miles, 'i he level being two hundred and eighty-three feet up from the Ottawa, and one hundred and fifty-four down to Ontario, forty-seven locks were required, costing £6000 each. Its completion cost the vast sum of £803,774, not including a considerable sum for Accidents and repairs. The river receives the name of Rideau from 112 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. the resemblance to a curtain which the beautiful fall of about thirty feet at its mouth presents. The Canal is ff)rinecl through the bed of the Ilideau, with two or three deviations on account of obstructions, through the Great Kidcau Lake, and Mud Lake, into the bed of the Cataraqui River to Kingston. But little of the land on the Canal it> under cultivation, as much of it is poor and rocky. Thousands of acres of cultivable land have been flooded by the damming of the rivers for the formation of tlie Canal, and immense quantities of tim- ber have been consequently destroyed. Notwithstanding the deserted miserable appearance which is presented in several parts by great numbers of trees still r.tanuing dead amid water, there are some pic- turesque and even romantic scenes. The finest spot is Kingston Mills, about six miles above Kingston. Formerly the traflic was very great, as, before the opening of the St. Lawrence Canals, the merchandize intended for the country beyond Kingston was trans- ported by this line at. a great expense, whilst the major part of passengers from Montreal ascended by tlie same route. — The Tourist will proceed in the morning by a caleche to Aylmer, which is dis- tant some eight miles. 'J'hc drive is interesting, at a short dis- tance from the Ottawa, which is here very wide. On ciossl .^ the Suspension Bridge he will enjoy a view cf the magnificent Chaudiere Falls, which are two hundred and twelve feet broad, and sixty high. On the Hull or Canada East side tlie water descends into a large basin, a large portion of which is believed to escape by subterraneous outlets. Hundreds of logs, that have fallen into this basin, still re main. From Aylmer an iron steamer plies to the Chats. The m•^ terval comprises the expansions of the Iviver, called Lake Chaudiere and Du Chene. The approach to the Cliats Falls is most imposing. The Cascade, generally about twenty-five feet, extends across the river in a curved line, and is divided into upwards of a dozen dis- tinct falls by a number of wooded islands. The River, three miles above, contracts suddenly, and dashes through the Rapids of the Chats in violent eddies amid a labyrinth of islands. On the Canada West side is situated Fitzroy Harbour, containing about five hundred inhabitants, and a Catholic Church. The space between this and Mississippi Island is unnavigable* On the other side is the landing- CANADIAN GUIDE LOOK, 113 ut thirty ic bed of ructions, ed of the Canal is isands of 5g of the is of tim- :; deserted by great ^ome pic- Kingston ■aflic ^vas inals, tlie /as trans- Dr part of lie Tourist eh is dis- short dis- oss* .^ the Chaudiere sixty high, to a large terraneous iHj still rc' . The mn Chaudiere , imposing, across the dozen dis- three miles pids of the Lhe Canada ive hundred en this and he landing- place for the Union Railroad, which conveys the passengers to Iho steamer that plies to Portage du Fort, the head of navigation on the Ottawa. The Chats Lake is a magnificent expanse about fifteen miles in length, and dotted with richly wooded islets. Between the - Canada West side and Mississippi Island there is a narrow passage, called the Snows or Snow Rapids, distant twenty-eight miles from the Harbour. The current is very rapid, and the boat-cliannel at the upper end only forty feet wide. On emerging from this channel a fairy scenery enlivens the ten miles to the Portage du Fort. On the (iouth side is Kinnell Lodge, once the residence of the Highland Chieftain, Maenab. It is worthy of notice here that a prodigious number of pine*trees died on the high lands on both sides of the Ottawa in 1 832, the first year of the cholera. This devastation is said to have extended two or three hundred miles. The phenomenon is a singular one, nor, has it, as far as we are aware, been explained. A similar destruction recently visited the pine-trees of Virginia, from which turpentine is extracted. A drive of eight miles takes the travel- ler to the foot of the Calumet Rapid, where a scow will convey him across to the Great Calumet Island, and a further drive of two miles will conduct him to the Rapids. Half a mile beyond is the Fall, a continual cascade of about seventy yards. The timber-slides here are admirably constructed, one of which is upwards of two hundred yards in length. At the Calumet may be collected beautiful geolog- ical specimens, some of ivhich contain a large portion of mica. Still farther up is another large island, called * Petit Allumet Island' or ' Black River Island.' Beyond the Portage des Allumettes the up* per part of the Ottawa is used by the fur-traders, who have a post also on Lake Temiscaming, more than three hundred and fifty miles above the junction of the Ottawa with the St. Lawrence. It is to be noticed that from Bytown to Fitzroy extends the Dalhousie District, whilst the Balhurst District extends above Fitzroy, both having the Ottawa for their northern boundary. Beds of marble of various shades of colour extend through the latter district. Fine white free^ stone, limestone, and granite, also, abound in this district. K2 4\ f I 114 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. FO«T CHAMBLV; UELOEIL MOUNTAIN^ CTC. '■; S As the British ami French inhabitants of Montreal usually flock to Chambly and Bciluil (hirini; Ihc summer months for the enjoy- ment of the beuutie.s of niitnnil scenery, uhich arc there so lavishljr presented to the view, we would be ut fault did wc omit to introduce the Tourist to these loealitic:^, as he can nov/ be transported to them »o comfortably and sp(!edily by the St. Lawrence and Atlantic Railroad, should he prefer such a method of conveyance before that by a caleelic over a jjood plank-road. We shall lay before him both routes, that he may have his option of either. A comfortable tilechc and steady driver being procured at Montreal, he proceeds to Uie Current St. Mary, about a mile below the city, where an excellent steam-ferry boat coi' •cys him across to Longueuil. During this pas- sage he enjoys a delightful view of Montreal and its wooded Moun- tain, whoso summit attains an elevation of six hundred and scventy- BiK feet above the hnel of the River, and of St. Helen's with its batteries, while villages are seen to skirt the shores on both sides. The plank-road, which is eighl^en feet wide, was constructed under Provincial enactmenls at a cost of i:^17,500, including the steam- ferry-boats. The country is remarkably level, and the soil is mostly a fine black mould, well adapted fur the growth of most kinds of grain and agricultural produce. The farmers* houses generally be- jipeak comfort and prosperity. A few miles from Longueuil there is a small swampy patch, and about half way to Chambly there is another of greater extent, which are respectively known as the Petite and the Grande Savotnae. These tracts, which were formerly entirely u i- productive, have, by a good system of drainage undertaken by the residents, and in some measure by the Provincial appropriations for the improvement of the road, been converted into excellent arable land. The seigniory of Longueuil, which extends nine miles in depth, was granted in 1700 to the direct ancestors of the present Baron de t. ;>•••" CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. llc'> ETC. :ally flock he cnjoy- lavishly 1 iiitroducfi ^d to them 1 Atlantic before that e liim both ble tilechc leda to U»e n excellent ng this pas- idcd Moun- jd scventy- I's with its both sides, ucted under the steam- )il is mostly st kinds of merally be- uil there is a e is another ztite and the entirely u »• ikcn by the >riation8 for jllent arable les in depth, nt Baron de Longucuil. It wns in this srction of the rond that (he first positive inHiirrcctionary movrmrnts manlfrslrd thrmpclves in November, 1837. On kavina; the scii^riiory ')f Lonp;iuil that of Chombly is en- Icrrd. The whole has Ix en oonrcdi'd, and tuo-lliirds were r^rantcd brforc the co.iquest in 1759. Thr land h ucU settled and Ailly cul- tivated. The road, after erosfing the little River Mf-ntrcal, which falls into the Hi(;hclieu, turns somewhat to the wtstvvard, and rraolics the banks of the latter at a beautiful circular expansion, nearly two miles in diameter, called the Basin of C/tambly. This is embellish- ed with several islets, covered with verdure and natural wood5, as ornamentally dispersed as if by human ingenuity and art. At tlic fool of the Rapids the dark-hued foliage of the trees contrasts welt with the brilliant whiteness of the foaming current and the clear-blue colour of the more tranquil part of the stream. The placid surface of the calm Basiji ; the spires of the various churches, glittering brightly in the noon-day sun ; the numerous pretty cottages within view, and the interesting features introduced into the fccne by the rugged outlines of the dark and isolated eminences of the Montarrillc, Beloeil, Mount .Johnson, Rougcmont, ShcfTord, and the more diss tant glimpses of the Orford peaks, and the Green Mountains of Ver- mont — all tend to render the prospect truly enchanting to the be* holder. Chambly consists chiefly of one extensive street, which fol- lows the sinuosities of the Basin. It comprises above one hundred dwellings, many of which are substantially built of stone. These are in general tastefully ornamented with gardens well furnished with flowers, fruit-trees, &c. This is commonly called i\\e French Village in contradistinction to the English Village or Canton, and contains an elegant Roman Catholic Church, dedicated to St. Joseph, its interior is richly decorated. At hand is the residence of th€ much respected Cure of the parish. The College of Chambly was originally commenced under his auspices, and principally endowed from his private resources. The foundation was laid in June, 1826, and the main portion of the edifice was completed in the following February. It is sixty feet long by fifty, and contains two stories with a ground-floor. The establishmtnt comprises school-rooms, dorjoitories, parlours, refectory, &.C., affording ample accommoda'* i nmi Hi 110 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. in llMi linn fur principiil, tutor, pupils, and domestics. Gardens and pleas- urrmed, oontaiiiina; upwards of sis thousand men. On the r!^i5^ g;rvHmd a^ljoining the Fort «vcre erected eighteen barracks, 'UAgdiitics, stoivhouses. and otiier buildings, some of which, after uk> rt'storalion of jvace, were dismaulied and disposed of, whilst the np»: were alloweil to fall into al!n(.>st total disuse. The iosurrection- xcy mjveiuent^ in iSoT and 1S3^ in the immediate vicinity induced the i»o%ertuuenl to a^aiii e-Mciul tiie military establishmtnl about Cbiuublv. b» lije ertctioQ «.4'utfw barnu'ks aud other rveceasajT btiild- mes.. so !titianci Charab! Chambi excellen fdacatio but the jeigneur Baain tei currents jive gris manufae along th the distri saw-millj the mark available iess than miles dist thi^ surroi parish or as well is p:piiia| laire. tI Qucts ihtl lowers i.± ^^drs ci CI Mrj.-Ci Ifavef • ft CANaPIAN t.VlPK lUH^U, m; mes. so that a lar^^ Kxir ^>f intantiv. i'{\>rtli\. {uu\ iU(Ol«'M ^vvi%^ sUtioncti htrf>. A >ory civat uMuotiou has huu-o t.»Kv>> \\\{\\.i\ «m»I Charabiy is now 2;arrisotUHi l>v a sin:\li' i\>M\p;\n> v>l' u\Au>Iin. 1'|«|mm Chambly contains a neat autl sul>st:\\itial l"|>i.'*coj>al rhun h m»«l (\\\ excellent Academy, at uhich all tlio hii';hn' ltii»i!! u « lam ;!('.' u'il»l»»ure« i but the Manor-house and j;rtiiinds, roriuerly lM'lnn^iiif\ In the laU» jeigneur, the Hon. Sannicl Halt, chirlly allract noluc^ Hm (ho Basin terminates, and th(^ Kichelien is .seen niMhinf, iilnn^, in lujihl currents amid a cluster ofishtH. On holh ^idcM me Mltmlrtl « \{vu five grist and saw-mills, and nrar the Manui Ikmhu iti a \m\)oi manufactory. The grist-mills an- mmkIi lVr(|iienlr; prop'-.r nmi,* i« D'^uiii fvt. Hi laire. Tne Ricri^elieu h'Atiz vr'jh^/jL h very pi/ b)/et;<|Ui', ii,ui\ i i^n ducts the travtlkr to t?jy south'^rfi bav; of ^n^: lAhuiiiMih. wbM b towers like s vhll of rock abo'ie Um; fly.t t'//tiuiry ixrouh'i. 7 bi* f-,«*/J passes xhrryaz'n irit iei^r^eury of a ravnit- A*, si eiufcli ttTi»^ti * lAUfc Jk7<>«j4^. t^^ V^j-^jiifcr ^«»^*Jijr leaves m£ CL^ti**-, UiC jitrvufeJA-;/v.^>. W-'/^*. *//<^a" aeDcjiiS tut fc.>»>.ii*„ IV. tjhH vjctOt ''jufvv;.^*; *. ;>» iS' '>'♦*' '-^ raapifci. latC lati ii»«i. ?»ie*:irj« w.* Its/ iiiij*fV»*;C *** vV '>fi*-/ i^v 'Afi^jty^ 'is , (■■1 u 118 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. varying in extent accordinc; to the humidity of the season. Its cir- cumference therefore may be two miles, more or less. Although there is an outlet through which the water is constantly flowing so as to turn several mills, there is no perceptible inlet. It is supposed to be the crater of an extinguished volcano ; and certainly the geo- logical structure of the mountain, in which it is embosomed, favours such a supposition. It abounds with excellent fish. Uhis lake oc- cupies a site so secluded and raised above the surrounding country that, according to the somewhat poetic language of one writer, it seems the Mountain-spirit's bath or the magic lake of some Arabian fiction. According to tiie popular notion entertained in regard to so calm and sequestered bodies of water, it has been pronounced unfathomable. As one surveys the lake in a deep and thickly tim- bered valley, overhung by precipitous and lofty hills, the scene, which is presented to the view, though somewhat contracted, is extremely imposing. At a short distance from the lake's margin commences the ascent of the peak. It is studded at intervals by fourteen wooden crosses, each of which bears an inscription having reference to our baviour's journey as He bore the cross to the place of crucifixion. The spots where these crosses are erected are called stalions. There are printed ** Meditations and Prayers adapted to the Stations of the Holy Way of the Cross," of which the pious Catholics make use, who visit this solemn retreat in considerable numbers. Some years ego z. dignitary of the Church of Rome, the Bishop of Nancy, visited Canada, and caused a small oratory to be constructed on the very crest of the mountain. On this as a base was erected a gigantic cros?, covered with bright tin. This cross might have been descried from a vast distance, when it was illuminated by the sun's rays, and pre- sented a very imposing aj)pearance. It w as destroyed a few years ago, but is to be re-erected. On reaching the summit of the cone, wl-Jch is usually called the Sugar Loaf, and whose height is vari- ously estimated at from eleven hundred to fourteen hundred feel above the river at its base, the panorama that bursts upon the view| amply repays the beholder for all the fatigue he has undergone The mountain comprises seven eminences covering a space of about] »*^vfcn miles square. The base is granitie;^ and forms a bold termi- nation 1 waters c Francis, Hampsh circle, w miles in Vfountai gish lent hills thai Vork, I favourabl capacious shining ci majestic i or tliirty i Ihe Riche upper end beyond a command! looks a va tieids^ an( THE SI This of param( fspeciallyj Decembei Montreal large an( The office^ lenience. ji^::^- if CANADI-inagus and Shewinagum, though tiistinct falls, meet in the chasm before they are discharged into the bay belov. Shewinagum is the most easterly, or towards the left bank of the river, bhewinagus is the middlemost, and Shewinaga (I make her the lady from her superior elegance) is to be seen only in time of flood 'f therefore, as Sir Walter Scott says, * If you would see fair Melrose right, Go visit her by the pale moon-light 3' CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 12.5 I in the rcui ivoitliy cf a )y engaging liopcd tViat, Fallti, and vill Bocn bi' .he rortaj;c he stranger lo arrange-, ich is aVout out the dirf- of the high- low may Ijc eech Porlajjf rapids there cipatcd J fur, if five or sbc re of an eddy Icsj by shoot- .lis in time of ig in a large ical, >\ho re- appropriately ^■vvinago, and uishcd by ilie and Lc Bon Is" sajs the distinct falls, e bay belov, bank of the (I make her ilv in time t)" S*> do I say, " If you would see fair Shewinaga, Go visit her in the month of May." The same writer, keeping up his happy nomenclature, thus carries on the description. " On ascending the portage path we descried through the trees fair Shewinaga, dancing down the slope of the hill on our right hand with sinuoui courses ; about midway .she grown suddenly fretful, and tosses hertelf headlong down a precipice (>f thirty feet ; then, skipping along as before, glides gently at last with the main body cf the river. • • • « • 80 much for the beauty and elegance of Shewinaga. But what pen shall describe the terrific contrast — the collision, the conflict, the co-thunder of the waters of Shewinagus and Shewinagum. I ascended the hill with ilie chasm on my right hand, till I came to a point, which 1 shall call the Point of Co-ihmdcr. There, looking up, 1 saw an inclined plane, swift as an arrow, and Shewinagus tumbling and bounding from rock to rock to meet him, and, when they met in the chaj?m below, what a sublime and terrific scene ! what rattling, roaring, lossing, boiling and foaming of waters ! '• When Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug of war !'' ii was indeed an angry ' meeting of the waters,' and far from o, mingling in peace.' There are large fissures in the precipitous rock, into which the waves are driven by the force of the collision. Immediately above the fall the current is unbroken and quiet, though fery rapid, as might be observed on seeing a huge log suddenly dip one end, and wholly disappear, on approaching the edge of the prec- ipice." The traveller on returning embarks in his canoe and de- scends swiftly for some distance. After a long portage, which occupies considerable time, the Falls of the Gres are reached, and are well worth seeing. The pleasing appearance of the Gabtlle Falls, like that of many others in America, has been much injured by being denuded of the fine trees that once graced it. Feme nules below are passed the Forges of St, Maurice, to which we have elsewhere alluded. In conclusion the Falls of Shewinagam, although ^ery interesting at an^^ season, are visited under the most favoura- ble circumstances during the high waters of the spring and fall, or during the latter end of May and the first half of October. L2 ^V. f ''I i 111 :'\**'f 126 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. *: .) ,iv U i>.-'-' MAIL KOUTES. It is not judged necessary to insert all the Mail Routes through- out Canada ; but only such as are likely to be useful to Travellers. TOBONTO TO NIAGABA;» QUEENSTON AND LEWISTON, N. Y. BY STEAMBOAT. To Niagara 36 miles QueenstonandLcwiston . . • 7 — 43 BY LAND ROUTE. To Etobicoke Cooksville Credit Trafalgar Palermo Nelson . Hamilton . Stoney Creek . Grimsby . Beamsville Jordan St. Catherines Queenston Niagara 8 miles 8—16 3—19 4—23 7—30 5—35 11—46 6-52 10—62 6-68 7—75 8—83 15—98 7-105 By going from St. Catherines to Niagara direct the Traveller! vrill save ten miles. TORONTO TO HAMILTON, LONDON AND AMHERSTBURGH. To Hamilton, 46 miles Ancaster 7 — 53 Brantford ...... 17—70 Burford 10—80 Woodstock 17—97 f Beachville 5-102 Oxford 6-107 London .' 22-129 Westminster . . . • . 6-135 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 127 Delaivare Ekfrid Mosa Thamesville Whitehall Raleigh (Chatham) Windsor Sandwich Amherstsburgh 6-141 11-152 12-164 16-179 9-188 6-194 62-246 2-248 15-263 TORONTO TO MONTREAL. Steamers leave Toronto for Kingston and thence for Montreal daily during the summer months. There is also a Land Route on which coaches ply daily, passing through the following post-towns. To Scarbro . Pickering Whitby . Oshawa . Darlington Newcastle Clarke Port Hope Cobourg . Haldimand Colborne . Brighton River Trent Belleville Shannonville Napanee Morven , Mill Creek Kingston Gananoque Yonge BrockviUe • • • • • • • • • • t • • ■ • • • • • • • • • t • • • « 11 miles 11—22 6—28 4—32 9—41 5-46 6—51 12—63 7—70 8—78 7—85 8—93 10-103 12-115 9-124 16-140 5-145 8-153 12-165 20-186 23-208 9-217 im i 128 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, .'*t 0;: • * • • • • • • • • . • • • • • • Maitland . Preacott . Edwardsburgh Matilda . • . . » West Williamsburg East Williamsburg . Osnabruck . Dickinson^s Landing Moulinctte Cornwall . . . ' • Lancaster . . • • • GoteaM Landing Cotcau du Lac . Cedars . Lachine Montreal t • , • • • • • • • • ■ • t « • • • • • • ♦ • • • MONTREAL TO QUEBEC Steamers leave daily in summer, and the Route in continuation of the foregoing. To Uepentigny . TiOvaltrie . Berthier St. Barthelemie . Maskinonge . River du Loup . Yamachiche . Three Rivera Champlain Batiscan Bridge St. Anne de la Perade Grondinea . . Peschambault Port Neuf . Cap Sante Quebec . 6-222 7-229 . 9-238 6-244 . 8-252 8-260 . 7-267 2-269 . 6-275 6-281 . 16-297 20-317 . 3-320 6-326 . 28-354 9-363 following is the Land 15-378 . 17-395 13-408 . 10-418 7-425 6-431 6-437 . 16-453 15-468 . 10-478 6-483 . 9-492 6-498 . 6-504 7-511 . 32-543 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 129 We ore indebted for the information which follows to the frut Report f)f the Board of Registration and Statistics, published by (;rdcr of Parliament in 1849. This Board consists of the Inspector Gener- al, Receiver General, and Provincial Secretary, and the Secretary lo tlie Board is Mr. W. C. rrofton. On the last gentleman, we presume, the labour devolved of digesting and arranging the mats of interesting matter before the Board ; and, considering the difiiculties in the way of all first attempts of tlic kind, we congratulate the country on its having been so efficiently and satisfactorily performed, POPULATION OF CANADA. There has not unfortunately been any census taken of 1-ouer or Eastern Canada since 1844. In that year it showed a total of 690,782, and the result of a scries of four independent calculations based on the progressive increase of former years, shows a t(>lal in 1848 of 708,334, which is distributed thus among the Ccuntita. Counlies. Saguenay . Ottawa . Two Mountains Population of 1848. 19364 17870 29952 Terrebonne . 23052 Lcinster . 28507 Berthier 29988 Drummond Shcrbrooke County . ** Town Shefford 10467 14168 ■ 887 11282 Beauharnois 32095 Montreal, City Quebec, City . Megantic Rimouski . 55146 39830 7535 19683 Dorchester 38877 Lotbiniere Portneuf 15292 17777 Vaudreuil . 18554 '^ ?i: 130 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 'i' * -yr. St. Maurice . 17981 Three -Rivers 4673 Champlain . , 11312 Nicolet 17735 Yamaska 13000 Missisquoi 11815 Rouville 24900 Chambly . 18610 St. Hyacinthe 23894 Gaspe . . . 7771 Bellcchasse . '; 15823 L'Islet 18502 Kamouraska . 13992 Stanstead . 13009 Huntingdon . . . 39371 Montreal County 15893 Quebec " 10659 Montmorenci 8988 Richelieu 22255 Vercheres . 14029 Bonaventure . . . 8786 Total 768334 rPPER CANADA. In Western or Upper Canada the census was taken in 1 848, and showed a total population of 723,087, distributed among the Districts thus. Bathurst .... 29448 Brock .... 29219 Colborne . . . . 21379 Dalhousie . . . 25520 Eastern .... 38653 Gore .... 59015 Home .... 106352 Huron .... 20450 Johnstown . . . 43444 t-MwiOiMI J CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 131 London , , 46547 Midland . 45249 Newcastle 47433 Ottawa 10364 Niagara • 51125 Prince Edward . 18061 Sirncoe . » 23060 ialbot 15716 Victoria 23133 Wellington 41439 Western 27440 Total . 723087 CROPS. So mtich has been said of the fertility of the United States that the following table will not be without interest. It shows the pro- portion of each kind of grain raised to the population in the United States and Canada, — that of the United States for 1848 being taken from the Ileport of the Commissioner of Patents, and being merely an estimate. In 1840 the population of the United States was 17,063,353 And in 1847, .... 20,746,400 In 1842 the population of Canada West was . . 486,055 And in 1848, .... 723,332 STATES. Upr :R CANADA. Quantity to each Bushels. Quantity to each inhabitant, 1847. 1847. inhabitant, 1847. . . 5.50 . , 7558773 . . 10.45 . . .28 . . 515727 . . .71 . . 8.09 . . 7055730 . . 9,75 , . 1.42 . . 446293 . . .62 . . .56 . . 432573 . . .60 . . 26.01 . . 1137555 . . 1.57 . . 4.86 . . 4751331 . . 6.57 1753846 . . 2.42 en in 1848, UNITED [ airong the Bushels. 1847. Wheat . 114245500 Barley . 5649950 Oats 167867000 Rye . . 29222700 Buckwheat 11673508 Maize . 539350000 Potatoes 100965000 Peas ■■_ 1. ■■j m it 133 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. I. II } I i From the above tables it will be seen that, in proportion to tht^ extent and population, Canada is a more agricultural oon.ntry than the United States, and the surplus of wheat is very great. The usual quantity allowed for the consumption of each inhabitant is generally five busheb, which would leave for export one half the produce, of the country. The large quantity of Indian Corn grown in the States enables them, by making it a staple of consumption, to export a largo stock of Hour. In Canada, on the contrary, little Indian Corn is grown, and wheat becomes of necessity the great article of food. It we take tlie produce for 1847 at the lowest average prices, we have as the value of the products of Canada : s. d. £ n. d. . ., 7,558,773 bushels, at 3 6 = 1,322,785 5 6 Wheat . Larley Oats . . Rye . . Maize Buckwheat Peas . . Potatoes . 515,727 7,055,730 446,293 1,137,555 432,573 1,753,846 4,751,331 a a (( <( it at 2 at 1 at 2 at 2 at 4 at 2 at 1 6 = 3 3 3 6 6 6 £ 1,322,785 58,019 440,983 50,208 142,194 2 1 7 86,514 12 219,230 15 356,349 16 9 6 9 6 6 $10,705,141.30 = £2,676,285 6 6 In making the foregoing comparison between the crops of thr United States and Canada, a remark has been made which requires some observation. It is stated to be unjust to take the whole of the former country, where some portions do not produce wheat. Louisiana and Florida for instance, whose united population is about 600,000. We will take therefore those States which produce the greatest quantity, viz : New York, with a population of 2,880,000, produced 15,500,000 bu-shcb, or littl,? more than 5 to each inhabitant. Pennsylvania, with a population of 2,220,000, produced 15,200.000 bushels, or very nearly 7 to each inhabitant. Virginia, with a population of 1,295,000 produced 12,250,000 bush- els, or not quite lO^to each inhabitant. .■ i/i- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 133 Ohio with a population jf 1,980,000 produced 20,000,000 bushels, or little more than 10 to each inhabitant. Indiana with a population of 1,000,000 produced 8,500,000 bushels, or about 8 to each inhabitant. With respect to Michigan, it is worth while to examine the re- turns. In 1840 the population of that State was 212,267, and its produce in wheat was 2,157,108 bushels. In 1848 the population is rated at 420,000, and the wheat crop at 10,000,000 bushels, and other crops at 22,110,000, making together 32,110,000; how does that stand with regard to the available labour of the State 1 According 10 the ratio of 1841, the whole male population between the ages of 15 and 70 would be about 1 27,000, of whom, allowing 75 per cent to be engaged in agriculture, we have 92,000 to collect this enor- mous harvest of grain above, of 350 bushels to each man, the wheat crop being about twenty-four bushels to each inhabitant. CATTLE. Neat Cattle [in Canada] in 1842, 504,963, in 1848, 565,845 ; in- crease 60,882 or 12 per cent. Horses in 1842, 113,675, in 1848, 151,389 ; increase 37,714 or 33 per cent. Hogs in 1842, 394^366, in 1848, 484,241 ; increase 89,875 or 23 per cent. Sheep in 1842, 575,730, in 1848,833,807; increase 258,077 or 45 per cent. The last, viz. Sheep, is of peculiar consequence as connected with the improvement of the country. [ In 1842 there were produced 1,302,510 lbs. of wool, while in 1848 it amounted to 2,339,756, or an increase of very nearly 80 pc tent, the average fleece being 2 6-8th lbs. In the States in 1840 the cumber of Sheep was 19,311,374, and the wool 35,802,114 lbs. TOTAL VALUE OF EXPORTS FROM QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. I Fears. Quebec. £ s. d. 11841 . . 1727726 15 1 |!842. . 991489 8 9 Montreal. £ s. d. 700070 2 9 728729 14 9 M Total Currency. £ s. d. 2427796 17 lo 1720219 3 6 M I '1 ■: 'if 134 1843 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 1367651 17 5 1486848 17 9 2056851 1 1 1866456 18 5 1831399 13 1357326 6 1 388199 1 754231 2 8 720797 7 8 658338 6 8 848982 18 10 391841 5 1755850 18 5 2241080 5 2777648 8 9 2524795 5 1 2680382 11 10 1749167 11 1 TOTAL VALUE OF IMPORTS AT QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. Years. 1841 . 1842. 1843. 1844. 1845 . 1846. 1847. 1848. Quebec. £ s. d. 217916 14 3 216669 13 11 402227 5 655868 15 8 712398 10 10 750982 11 5 796917 9 2 625845 2 11 Montreal. £ s. (I. 2068135 17 10 2021106 12 1 1289571 1 5 2475084 5 8 2620252 3 2 2303908 12 11 2063440 U 11 Total Currency. £ s. d. 2286052 12 1 2237776 6 1691798 6 5 3130953 1 4 3332650 14 3054891 4 4 2860357 1 1 2107264 8 1481418 17 9 The above Tables would show that Canada had been overtrad- ing to a large amount ; but it must be kept in mind that the values given are those declared at the various Custom Houses, and a verj large Export has taken place to the States, which trade is steadily in- creasing ; but from the fact of no clearances being required, and the Tabiei'' being drawn up from vague reports, it is difficult to arrive at any real fact of the case, except in regard to the two ports, Quebec and Montreal. The minutest calculations show that the value of goods imported by the Inland Ports (wiiich are generally from the United States) give 9^ per cent on the values in the gross ^ thus we may arrive very nearly at the values at the Inland Ports for the several years embrac- ed in the Report. 1841 . . £606,441 9 1842 . . 544,241 8 1 1843 . . 876,285 10 6 1844 . . 1,471,177 9 1 1845 . . 1,608,089 1 11 1846 . . 1,725,966 1 1 1847 . . 1,688,583 5 3 ?>■'■ 1.*!' . 1. U*"* CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 135 Tiiis indicates the value of Imports into Canada for the year 1847 to have been £3,795,847 5s. lid. and with the addition of Free Goods, about £4,000,000, or very nearly £3 to each inhabitant, or £15 for each family of five persons, contributing towards the Revenue of the Country £1 7s. 7d. Of the large amount of Im- ports in 1847, wc find that Great Britain and her Colonies furnish £2,677,260,exclusive of the Imports by Sea into the Ports of Western Canada, and Goods passing through the States under the Drawback Act. When we come to consider the consumption of Articles, we shall see how capable of extension even this large Trade is, and how adequate the resources of the Country are to meet it. The real wealth of the Country is but little known, and till within a few years, when the regulations of the Customs were rendered more stringent and efiicient, there was no information whatever in the hands of the Government as to the Trade carried on by the Inland Ports- To the introduction of the present system we owe much, and, if the same check could be placed on the ^'' xport Trade, we would soon be able to arrive at a definite knowledge of our Trade, which knowledge would cause a greater energy in all our efforts to bring forward the resources of the Colony. Let us noAv turn our attention for a few moments to the Export Trade, and endeavour to make available the scattered information we possess on the subjects With regard to the Ports of Montreal and Quebec, no difficulty arises ; we find the Exports from these Ports to ha,vc amounted in 1848 to £1,749,167 10s. lid. to which adding for the Fisheries not included £91,252 15s. 8d. we have for the Exports by Sea £1,840,420 6s, 7d-, the great portion of which was to England and her Colonies. As to the Exports by the United States,we have only partial returns from some Ports, and at evidently under-rated values, viz : Produce of the Forest Agricultural Productions Live Stock .... Other Articles . . • £159,551 6 5 454,350 54,243 104,287 7 10 9 6 8 £772,432 5 4 .1 . ' ' I 't 136 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. r.t And to this we might add a very liberal percentage ; for, on the most minute enquiry among persons capable of forming an estimate on such matters, it has been universally asserted that many of tho Articles, particularly Lumber, are far under-rated, Pine Lumber especially. VV^e have certain Ret irns from several Saw-mills in Up- per Canada, by which it appears, that even 'n those which have given in the quantity manufactured, the produce was upwards of 200 millions of lect ; and, as the consumption does not equal one half of that amount, we have nearly double the quantity stated for export, that is, allowing the produce of the Lower Canada saw-mills to balance the quantities exported by sea. As the official returns from the United States on goods imported from Canada merely gave the declared values without the quantities, we can only institute a comparison, so far, between that year and 1848. Tlie following are the leadii^g articles : Flour in 1847 . £24,722 9 3- -in 1848 . £310,965 9 3 Butter " ?,016 16 « 8,722 6 Ashes *^ 6,052 « 43,000 Wool '* 5,654 C( 5,324 16 1 Horses ^^ 15,723 15 * • 33,451 15 Wheat « 9,421 15 i( 63,127 5 8 CONSUMPTION. There is not any branch of Statistics, which more plainly indis cates the state of prosperity of a country than the consumption of articles of import in relation to the population ; the consumption of articles of home produce can scarcely be traced otherwise than from a 2;eneral observance of the habits of the people. The object of the Commission being mainly to establish some starling point for future examination and comparison, every means was resorted to in or- der to arrive at such a series of results as would prove satisfactory ind least liable to objection. To any one at all conversant with the Canadian people, it must be evident that the general comfort is far more extensive than in most other countries, abject poverty is com- paratively little known, and the class, constituting what were in a former Census designated as " persons living upon alms," consisted cliiefly of the old and infirm who could not labour for their sustenance, %:■ CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 137 II and even in that class, in the Western Section of the Province, were very many who were far removed from the corresponding class in other countries. Taken as a whole, it may be safely asserted, that in no country do the agricultural classes enjoy a greater degree of comfort or are liable to fewer deprivations. We first present the result of investigation as to the consump- tion of those articles which, by reason of the payment of Customs duties, are easily ascertained. > SUGAR. From the Tables given by Mr. Porter in his Progress of the Nation, we find on the average of years from 1830 to 1841 the con- sumption of Sugar and Molasses in Great Britain to have been minimum in 1840, 15.28 lbs. per head, maximum in 1830 — 19.94 lbs, or on the average 17.61, exactly the consumption of 1841. In Canada for the year 1847, we have the following : Refined Sugar . . . 1,067,767 lbs. Raw " ' . . 10,586,893 « Bastard « ... 3,559,110 '* ' Molasses, .... 5,459,619 " being 20,673,389 lbs. of Sugar, paying a duty of £108,774 12s 3d. 20,673,389 lbs. To this quantity we must however add Maple Sugar (L.C.), 1844, 2,272,457 Add one-tenth, . . . 227,245 = 2,499,602 Do. do. (U.C.),1847, . . . 3,764,243 = 6,463,845 27,137,234 lbs. The Export of Maple Sugar being a mere trifle, more as an ar- ticle of curiosity than of trade, amounting in the whole to less than 5,000 lbs., we may take the above quantity as the consumption ; which gives, according to the Census for 1847 (of 1,491,667 souls), an average consumption of 18.20 lbs. per head, or 91 lbs. to each family of five persons. It has been asserted that a large quantity of contraband Sugar is annually brought in from the States to the west- cm parts of the Upper Province, but whether sufficient to affect the (eoivaumplion to any extent, there is no means of ascertaining. Tlie M2 U , Ik 13S CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. I. I.-- IV. 1] .; annual tax per head on the average of years previous to the altera- tion of the Sugar duties in England was Ss. 9d. In Canada for the year 1847 it was Is. 5Jd. During the year ending the 5th January, 1847, we find the total of Sugar imported into England, and entered for consumption, to have been of Raw Sugar, cwt. ..... 5,231,848 Jlefincd 18,401 Molasses in proportion to Sugar as 24 to 9 . 215,166 Cwt. 5,465,415 Or 612,126,480 lbs. being about 18 lbs, to each individual, inclusive of the quantity used in Distillation. In the Royal Navy, the allowance is 1^ oz- per diem or 34 lbs. 3 ozs. yearly per man, while the allowance to aged paupers in Union Houses is 1 oz. per day or 23^ lbs. per annum— taking these points into consideration, it materially reduces the average consumption. In the year 1 848 there was a decrease to a large amount in the quantity of Sugar which paid duty ; but the yield of Maple Sugar for 1847 was far below the average produce, whereas that of 1848 was particularly large. The quantity of Foreign Sugar which paid duty in 1848 was 14,300,000 lbs. which with the Maple Sugar gen- erally averaged as a most abundant crop, we have an average of not more than 16 lbs. per head — but in taking 1848, we must bear i n mind that it was tV ost unfavourable year that we have had for a long time, there was a great stagnation in trade and a great scar- city of money, and the merchants limited their importations to the lowest possible scale. COFFEE. This being considered comparativel a luxury, will aflbnl a good idea of the position we have assumed, and consequently very ^reat care was taken to obtain all possible information on the sub- ject. The heavy duty on ground Coffee under the old Tariff had a bad effect in two ways ; 1st, it induced smuggling to a very large amount, and 2ndly, it encouraged the manufacture of a very deleterious arti- cle. Information to be relied on states that in one Town in Upper E«r?f ' ;ions to tlic CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. lao Canada, during the year 1847, no less than 1500 boxes of 25 lbs. each were ground, 9-lOths of which was nothing more than peas and chicory. In England, the consumption of Coffee in 1801 was 1 oz. I per head — in 1841 it had increased to 1 lb.7ozs., the quantity being 27,298,322 lbs. and the population taken at 18,532,335, at the former period the duty was Is. 6d. per lb., at the latter 6d. In 1846, the quantity entered for consumption amounted to 36,- 1 781,391 lbs. or about 1 lb. 8 ozs. per head. In Canada during I the year 1847 — 1,101,621 lbs. paid duty for consumption, and in 1848—1,018,803 lbs., making an average consumption of about H lozs.,exclusive of the large quantities of adulterated .lee consumed in the country parts — the average of the duty on Coffees of all kinds under the old Act was within a small fraction of 2d. per lb. Tiic quantity of Foreign Coffee imported into the United States during [the year ending 30th June, 1848, was 8,200,000. TEA. The alterations which have taken place in the duties on Tea I have not materially affected the consumption. In 1833, the quanti- ty imported direct from England was, of Hyson paying 6d. per lb. 62,813, of common Green paying 4d. 917,331, and of Bohea paying 2(1. 88,251 lbs., making a total of 1,058,395 lbs. This was far be- yond the actual consumption, as large quantities remained in the Warehouse at the conclusion of the year. In 1834, under the pro- visions of 3 & 4 Will. IV. chap. 101, Tea was imported direct from China by the East India Company, when the quantity imported was very large, being no less than 2,164,500 ; but this covered a con- sumption of three years, and much of it was rcshipped to England. hi 1843, under the new Trade Act, paying 4d. per lb. sterling, the quantity which paid duty at Montreal, and constituting the largest portion of the consumption, was 1,71 6,008 lbs. In 1847, 3,375,585 lbs. paid duty, and in 1848, 2,259, 294 ; but, as the import of 1847 was beyond the consumption, and the new Act of that year provided for the warehousing of Tea, we may take the sum of the two years, fir 5,634,879, i. e. 2,817,440 lbs. yearly as the actual consumption. To this we must add a large quantity smuggled, which will make the annual consumption about 3,250^000 lbs. or 2 lbs. 4 ozs. per head. ^\l r t n I 'i.i li: IH ■ " \ n- i 140 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. In Ejigland the consumption In 1801 was 20,237,7f)3 lbs. or 1 lb. 3 ozs. per head. ISll 20,702,809 a I *' I i< 1821 22,892,913 t< ] «< *' 1831 29,997,101 « 1 <' 3 <* 1841 36,657,667 « 1 (( fj (( 184G 46,728,208 about 1 '^ 8 « a it a (( « The whcl^ importation into the United States of Teas for the year ending ^th June, 1847, v as 4,278,463 lbs., and for the year enuing 30th June, 1848 -—6,217,1 11 ; see Report of the Secretary of tlie Treasury. WINE AND SPIRITS. The total quantity cf VVitie and Spirits which paid duty in 1847 was ... . 553,849 gallons. 1848 " 392,580 « The dclicicncy in Rum being 71,806 gallons, and in Wine 94,817 gallons, leaving an increase of 6,354 gallons on other spirits. The quantity manufactured in Canada in 1817 was 2,134,721 gal- lons, and in 1848 1,905,150 gallons. Thii), liowever, must not bo taken as a criterion of consumption, as, at the beginning of 1848, there was a large supply on hand. > TOBACCO. The quantity of Tobacco which paid duty in 1847 was 2,643, 552 lbs. and in 1848, 1,840,158 lbs. It is to be regretted that from the Western District, where a large quantity of Tobacco is grown, no Returns have been made for the year 1848. m m 1 M 1 ^m,:.: ,IV'' • ■^ • ••• /!mI*I CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 14 TARIFF OF DUTIES, PAYABLE ON IMPORTS INTO CANADA, UNDER THE ACT 12 VICT CHAP. !. — APRIL 25, 1849. Articles* Allspice, r ...... . Almonds, ........ Anatomical Preparations, ..... Anchors, Anchovies, ........ Animals and Live Stock, ull, .... Animals, specially imported for the improvement of Dutkft. 12i per cent. .30 per cent^ 30 per cent. Free. 2i per cent. 2i per cent. 20 per cent. Stock, .... Apples, .... Arrowroot, .... Articles, ALL unenumerated, I Ashes, Pot and Pearl, . Do. Soda, . . , • I Bacon, .... Baggage of Travellers,^ Bark, ..... Barle}', . . . » . Beans, Bere and Bigg, . dCCI« • • t • • Berries, used in dyeing, . Free. .30 per cent. 12^ per cent. 1 2| per cent. Free. Free. ' 20 per cent. Free. 2J per cent. 20 per cent. 20 per cent. 20 per cent. 2 5 per cent. 12^ per cent. Biscuit, ........ Books, Printed, except foreign rcprinis of British copy- right works, which are prohibited by an Imperial Act, .......f ree. Books, Blank, 12^ per cent.. Books and Drawings of an immoral or indecent char- acter, ...... . Prohibited. < i » * f 142 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOR. Articki. Boots and Shoes, . Bran and Shorts, Brandy, Bristle.?, . Broom-Corn, Brooms, . Brushes, Buckwheat, Bulbs and Hoots, Burr Stones, Burr Stones, Wrought Duties. . 12i per cent. 20 per cent. 2s. per gallon and 2r) per cent. 2J per cent. , . 2i per cent. 12J per cent. . 125 per cent. 20 per cent. , . Free. , 2i per cent. . 12^ ]ier cent. Bust') and Casts of Marble, Bronze, Alabaster, or Plaster of Paris, Free. Butter, 20 per cent. Cabinets of Coins, Medals, or Gems, and other Collections of Antiquity, .... Free. (JampWne, Candles, v/assiu, ..•.(•>. Castings, • . i^aitie, .••••••* Chain Cables, not less than fifteen fathoms, and links five-eighths of an inch thick, Chairs, Vl\ per cent. 1 2\ per cent. 30 per cent. 12i per cent. 20 per cent. Cheese, Chocolate, . Cider, Cinnamon, . Clocks, . • Cloves, ... Coals and Coke, Cocoa, Coffee, green, Do. roasted or ground, Coin and Bullion, 2\ per cent. . . VZ\ per cent. 20 per cent. . 12^ per cent. 1 2\ per cent. • 30 per cent. . 12i per cent. 30 per cent. * . 2\ per cent. . 12i per cent. is 8d per cwt. and \2l per cent. 14s per cwt. and \2\ per cent. Free. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 143 Coins, base, Cordage, (sec Kopc), Cordials, .... Corks and Cork, . . Corn, Indian, . Cotton Wool, . Cotton Manufactures, , Crackers and Biscuit, . Currants, Cutlery, .... Drawings, Drugs, .... Drugs, used solely in dyeing, Dye Woods, Earthenware, Engravings and Etchings, Feathers, ... Figs, .... Fish, . ... Flax and Tow, undressed. Flour, .... Flowers, artificial. Fruits, all kinds. Furniture, Furs, ..... Gin, . » • . . Ginger, .... Glass, and Manufactures of Glue, .... Goods, &€., all not enumerated Grapes, .... Grease and Scraps, Guano, . . * . Gypsum, .... Hair, and Manufactures of Hams, * . . • • * . Prohibited. 3s per gallon and 25 per cent 12^ per cent. Free. . Free. 12J per cent. . 12 J per cent. 30 per cent. . 12i per cent. Free. . 12^ per cent. 2 J per cent. . 2| per cent. 12i per cent. . Free. 12i per cent. . 30 per cent. 12^ per cent. . 2i per cent. 20 per cent. . 12^ per cent. 30 per cent. 12i per cent. . \2i per cent. per gallon and 25 per cent. 30 per cent. . 1 2J per cent. 12i per cent. . 12^ per cent. 30 per cent. 2^ per cent. Free. . Free. 12^ per cent* . 20 per cent. 2s 4 1 14-i CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. Jlrticles. Hardware, -Harness, .....••• Hats, Hay, ....•••• Hemp, .....••• Hides, ....... Honey, . . . ^ • • * • Hops, ....•'•• Horses ,,....•• Indian Corn, ....•• Indian Rubber, Indigo, Ink, • Iron, viz : — Bar and Rod, not hammered, Sheets not thinner than sixteen wire gauge, Hoop, not over two inches broad, . Charcoal-made or refined, . Boiler Plates, Railroad Bars, . . . . • Spike Rods, . . ^ . . • Pig and Scrap, All not enumerated, .... Manufactures of ... . Ivory, Jewelry, . • Junk, . ■ ■ • Lamps, I 2\ per cent. 30 per cent. 2\ per cent. 20 per cent. 2^ per cent. 2\ per cent. 12^ per cent. 12^ per cent. 30 per cent. 2\ per cent. t2i per cent. 12i per cent. 12^ per cent. \2\ per cent. Free. 12^ per cent. 12^ per cent. 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 20 per cent. 30 per cent. 12^ per cent. Free. \2\ per cent 12^ per cent. 30 per cent. 2^ per cent. 12i per cent. 2i per cent, 12^ per cenJ 12 J per cent , 12J per cent. 20 per cent. . 12| per ceni Poultry, Preserved ] Prunes, Putty, . Quills, Quinces, Raisins, Resin or I Rice, Rope, . Rope, Tar gingi Rum,atpr Rye, Sale rat Salt, Sauces, Saw Logs Scythes Seeds, Segars, Sheep, Shell Fisl Shingles, Ships' W Shoes, Shot, Silk Mar Slates, Snuff, . Soap, . Soda Asl Specimer Spices, Spikes, JO Duties. 2i per cent, per cent> 2\ per cent. 10 per cent. 2\ per cent. !0 per cent. 21 per cent, 2\ per cent. 2^ per cent, i per cent. ' per cent, 2^ per cent. 12i per cent. 12i per cent. 12^ per cent. \2\ per cent. i2i 30 30 per cent. 20 per cent. 30 per cent. 12^ per cent Free. 12| per cent \2\ per cent. 30 per cent 2\ per cent. 12i per cent 2i per cent 12^ per cenJ i2\ per cent 12^ per cent. 20 per cent. 12| per ceni CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. Articles. Poultry, Preserved Fruits (in sugar, candy or molasses). Prunes, Putty, Quinces, Raisins, . Resin or Rosin, JKice, •...•••< Rope, 147 Duties. \2\ per cent. 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 12^ per cent. 12^ per cent. 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 2^ per cent. 12^ per cent. 125 per cent. xvope, . ....••• Rope, Tarred — when imported by ship -builders for rig- ging their ships, 2\ per ce"t. Rum, at proof, by Sykes' Hydrometer, 1 s 3d per gal. and 25 per cent. Rye, "'^ — """ * Saleratus, Salt, Free. 12^ per cent. ^^"^^'^' 12i| per cent, l^^^^' ' 30 per cent Scythes Seeds, . . Segars, Sheep, Shell Fish, . Shingles, . Ships' Water Casks, Shoes, Shot, . Silk Manufactures, Slates, Snuff, . Soap, . Soda Ash, in use, 20 per cent. . \2\ per cent. Id. per bushel and 12^ per cent. . 12^ per cent. 21 per cent. . 12^ per cent. 12^ per cent. Is. 6d. per lb. and 12^ per cent. , . . 20 per cent. . 12^ per cent. 12| per cent. 21 per cent. 12^ per cent. . 12^ per cent. 12^ per cent. . 12^ per cent. 4d. per lb. and 12^ per cent. . 12^ per cent. Soda Ash, ....... Free. Specimens of Natural History, Mineralogy or Botany, Free. Spices, all, ........ 30 per c6nt. Spikes, . 12^ per cent t 148 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. K il'Sl m J. ;);1 Articles. Duties* Spirits, except Rum and Wiiisky, at proof, 2s per gal. & 25 per cent. Spirits or Cordials, sweetened so that the strength can- not be found by the Hydrometer, 3s. per gal. and 25 per cent. Spirits of Turpei»tine, 12^ per cent. Sponge, 12^ per cent. Starch, 12^ per cent. Steel, . 2^ per cent- Do. Manufactures, 12^ per cent. Stoves, 12^ per cent. Straw Boards, 12^ per cent. Sugar, Refined, in loaves, or Crushed and Candy, 14s. per cwt. and 12^ per cent. Vinegar, . Wafers, Watches, Watches, & Foreigi Wax, Whalebone, Wheat, Whetstones Whisky, at Vicker Wc r Sugar, Bastard aiid other kinds, Sumach, .... Su'eetmeats, Swine, .... Syrups, .... Tallow, 1 cir^ • • • k • 1 6a^ » • a • « 1 cdiSCis^ • • • « Tin and Tinwar(3, Tobacco, Manufactured, Tobacco, Unmanufactured, Tongues, .... Tow, Undressed, Toys, .... Trees and Shrubs, Type Metal, in blocks or pigs, Types, .... Varnish, .... Vegetables used in dyeing, Vegetables, .... Veneers, . . . . , V'ermicelli, .... 9s. per cwt. and 12^ per cent. 2i per cent. . 30 i)er cent. 20 per cent. , 12^ per cent. 2i per cent. 2| per cent. Id. per lb. and I25 per cent. 2^ per cent. 12| per cent. ^d. per lb. and 12^ per cent. Id. per lb. and 12^ per cent. . 20 per cent. 2^ per cent. 12| per cent. . Free. . 2^ per cent. 12^ per cent. . 1 2| per cent. 2^ per cent. . 12| per cent. 12^ per cent. . . 30 per cent. Wine, in w under, Wine, valui Wine, in b( Wood, and Wood used Wool, Do. Mam Yeast, Zinc, . Arms, Clo which tracto broug Majei jesty' this I %voul( King" ix ^.j. Duties, per cent. per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. 1^ per cent- !| per cent. 2J per cent. i per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. 2i per cent. per cent. per cent. 2^ per cent. 2i per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. 2^ per cent. per cent. 21 per cent. 2^ per cent, ee. 2^ per cent. U per cent. H per cent* li per cent. !| per cent. !^ per cent. > per cento CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 149 jirticles. Vinegar, ........ 30 per cent. Wafers, 12| per cent. Watches, 12^ per cent. Watches, &c., purporting to be of British but really Foreign, Manufacture, Prohibited. Wax, 12i per cent. Whalebone, 12^ per cent. Wheat, Free. Whetstones, 12^ per cent. Whisky, at proof, . . . 3d. per gallon and 12^ per cent. Wicker Work, 12| per cent. Wine, in wood, value £15 the pipe of 126 gallons or under, . . . . 6d. per gallon and 25 per cent. Wine, value over £15 the pipe, Is. 6d. per gallon and 25 per cent. Wine, in bottles, ... 4s. per gallon, and 25 per cent. Wood, and Lumber, ...... 12| per cent. Wood used in making Carpenters' and Joiners' Tools, 2^ per cent. Wool, 2^ per cent. Do. Manufactures, 12| per cent. Yeast, 12^ per cent. Zinc, ....*.... 12^ per cent. EXEMPTIONS : CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. lai ^ipv^-^. ttlc and Car ng iVIerchan Ic, so long a se, except thi J of person the Province orses, Cattle ian Troop foi arness of anj or to be (lis- this Province. )f Husbandry Society incor- griculture. s coming into iUf viz : jcts not Mer- ^ools of Trade inhabitants oi dying abroad. tly from the an Province^ e said United 'aste, Corn or iried or pickl- i or creatures ultry. Plants, kinds. Seeds ssed. Wood, >od. to their pro- om this Prov- REMARKS : The duties imposed by the present Tariff are in Provincial Currency (24s. 4d. currency equal to 20s. sterling and 5g. Id. cur- creny equal to one dollar), and levied according to the old weights and measures, i. e., "British Weights and Measures in use on the 6th of July, 1825." Packiiges in which Goods are contained shall be deemed Goods within the meaning of the Law, and subject to duty accordingly, ex- cepting always such packages as are required only for the security of the Goods during the transport thereof, and which do not usually ac- company the Goods when sold in this Province as being necessary for containing the same. All duties arc payable in Cash j but Goods may be entered for Warehousing, and transported in Bond from the Port of Entry to bo Warehoused at any Warehousing Port in the Province, and the du- ties paid when taken out for consumption ; or the goods may he ex- ported from the Province without payment of any duties. Goods must be cleared the Warehouse within two years from ilate of first entry. Cattle and Swine may be slaughtered, and Grain ground in Bond for exportation, under regulations to be made by the Governor in Council, which regulations may extend to the substitution of Beef and Pork, Flour or Meal, in quantities equivalent to the produce of such Cattle or Grain. Warehousing Ports. — Amherstburg, Belleville, Brockville, Bytown for supplies of the Lumber Trade only, Chippewa, Cobourg, Cornwall, Dalhousie, Dickinson's Landing, Dover, Goder- ich, Grafton, Hamilton, Hope, Kingston, Maitland (on Granu River), Montreal, Niagara, Picton, Prescott, Quebec, Stanley, St, Johns, Toronto and Whitby, and such other Ports as the Governor in Council may appoint. The present Tarift' having been framed on the principle of ad valorem duties throughout, the following stringent provisions are made for preventing; frauds by under-valuation, viz. : — One package in each lot, or one in each ten, or a greater num- ber, if necessary, may be opened, and, if found not to agree with the Invoice, the whole may be forfeited* ■^ I t 7^*^' I ,:.-• ^1 •V 152 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. The Collector has the power to take duties in kind, i. e. a por- ic Province tion of the goods entered corresponding to the rate of duty to whicli ic Collector they are subject, less one-eleventh part ; or he can take the whole, paying the owner the value at which they have been offered for entry, with the addition of ten per cent, and the import charges When goods arc appraised, and found to exceed the vulue ar which they were offered for entry to the extent of twenty per cent., then the duty on such goods shall be increased one-half and col lected on the appraised value. Persons smuggling, or attempting to pass goods with a false Invoice, are liable, in addition to former penalties, to a fine of £50, or imprisonment for one year. All acts of an Agent are made binding on his principal ; and peroons transacting business with the Customs through an Agent ritish Consi ATH OF A iS no ou the own of the g , (nime) dn ereunto am he goods, ^ tended to b vords as the It are to furnish him with a Power to act for them in the following lent and wil forrn :■ Province of Canada : Know all men by these presents, that we, A. B. & Co., have appointed, and do hereby appoint C. D. o{ (residence, professiony Sfc) to be our true and lawful Attorney and Agent for us, and in our name, to transact all business which we may have with the Col- lector at the Port of or relating to the Department my other Ir he said Inv oods, ware principal m roorf.s were oill meet th vhen the s£ of the Customs at the said Port, and to execute, sign, seaU and de* vere not at liver for us, and in our name, all bonds, entries, and other instru- ments in writing, relating to any such business as aforesaid, hereby ratifying and confirming all that our said Attorney and Agent shall do in the behalf aforesaid. In witness whereof we have signed ihese presents, and sealed and delivered the same as our act and deed, at in the said Province, this day of one thousand eight hundred and A. B. & Co., [L SJ In presence of E. F. by , one of the and G. H. partners in the said firm. These and a great many other enactments are made for the same object ; amongst which are a number of lengthy oaths, one of ♦*hich we here insert for the information of shippers residing out of ount, — or •f the actu? heir fair m )fthe Cow \ise such oi -ame were )een conci whereby t bc defraud tda in the Swor his I.e. por- le the whole, CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 153 8*v ^j«i jc Province. In the British Dominions this may be made before ty to which le Collector or the Mayor, and in Foreign Countries, before the offered for Iath of an Owner residing out of this Province, vjfien there Charlies, (the vdlue at [ty per cent., ilf and col ritish Consul. I with a false fine of £50, incipal; and gh an Agent le following vith the Col Department eal, and de« )ther instru- isaid, hereby Agent shall have signed our act and day of , one of the said firm, ade for the iths, one of 3ing out of is no owner in the Province who can attest the Invoice, or when the owner is the manufacturer or concerned in the manufacture of the goods : , (nime) do solemnly and truly swear (or affirm) that the invoice loreunto annexed and signed by me, is the true and only invoice of lie goods, wares and merchandise therein mentioned, shipped {or itsnded to bs shipped) by mo (or by name of Firm) in tlie whereof is Master, {varying these vords as the case may require) and consigned to in the Province of Canada ; that I have not ent and will not send, nor do I know or believe in the existence o i .ay other Invoice of the said goods, wares and merchandise ; that he said Invoice contains a just and faithful valuation of the said & Co., have ;oods, ivares and merchandise at their fair market cash value, in the '3 profession, trincipal markets in (insert the name of the Country whence the. r us, and in ',oods were exported to this Province, or use such other words as oill meet the facts) at the time when they were so exported, (or vhen the same were so shipped, or at this time) and that the same vere not actually purchased by me (or uc) or on my (or our) ac^ ount, — or that the said Invoice contains a just and faithful account )f the actual cost of the said goods, wares and merchandise, and of heir fair market value in the principal markets in (insert the name f the Country whence the goods were exported to this Province, or ise such other words as will meet the fads.) at the time when the ime w^ere purchased for my (or our) account ; and that nothing has )een concealed or suppressed in the said Invoice or otherwise, whereby Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain aad Ireland may be defrauded of any part of the duty lawfully to become due in Can- ida ill the said goods, wares and merchandise. So help me God. Sworn (or afiirmed) before me, (Signature.) his day of 18 (Signature,) Collector, or British Consul at (or as the case may be.) ra ■» . I 4- 4 li' \- Ci 'if' J ' (' 1:.^ .1 Abraham's Plains A la Claire Fontaine . Amhcrsi, Island . Beauport Belleville . Beloeil Mountain Berthier Bizare Isle Boucherville Brockville By* own. C aeon a . Caledonia Springs Canadian Boat Song- Cattle in Canada Caughuawaga . Chambly Charlesbourg Chaudiere . Chicoiitinii Chippewa Cobourg . Cornwall . . Coudres Island Crop 3 in Canada . Customs Duticc . . Du Loup Etchemhi . Ha ! Ha ! Bay Hamilton . Imports and Exports Indian Lorette Isle aux Noix INDEX. 85 108 13 76 12 118 45 103 43 19 110 96 104 103 133 21 115 69 79 100 1 11 20 95 131 141 96 79 100 9 , 133 68 121 103 95 14 21 18 &c. &c. .Jesus Isle Kamouruska Kingston . . 14 &,c Lachine Lake of Thousand Isles of Two Mountains 104 St. Francis . 20 ■ St. John . 100 St. Louis . . 21 St. Peter . . 45 Levi Point Longueuil L'Orignal Mail Routes Montmc. ancy Montreal Niagara Falls Do. Fort Do. Town Nicolet . Ontario • Orleans Isle Oswego Ottawa . Perrot Isle Pictou . Population . Prescott Quebec . Queenston Richelieu Rapids Do. River Rideau . • Rochester . Rouville Mountain Sackett's Harbour Saguenay Schlosser Landing Shewhiagam . Sorel St. Anne — Hilaire . — Hyacinthe . — Regis . Tadousac Three Rivers Toronto Traverse or Narrows Tvendenaga . U. E. Loyalists . Varennes Vaudreuil . Wolfe's Island 79 43 107 126 76 23 &c 2 &c 8 7 46 9 92 18 102 &c. 102 12 129 19 50 &c. . 7 48 121 111 16 &c. 118 &c. 18 98 &c. 1 B0( 123 44 77 120 121 20 98 49 10 &c 95 12 13 44 107 IS fter for sal( ap, Pott, ar lotting, Ti ANCY St A' lish a variety Editions of j^vhich they c they were tl The fo ful to the T Map of C. Staveh ofEdii History ( publis History for th( sketcl andB Provii The Nat Geog theP The Ma< This gistn ofC{ 79 43 107 126 76 23 2 8 7 46 9 92 18 102 102 12 129 19 50 . 7 48 121 111 16 118 18 98 1 123 44 77 120 121 20 98 49 10 95 12 13 44 107 IS &c &c. &c. ARMOUR & RAMSAY, BOOKSELLERS AND STATIONERS, St. Francois Xavier Street, MONTREAL, ^^loffer for sale an extensive Stock of English and Foreign Post, Fools- f ap, Pott, and other Writing Papers, Drawing, Wrapping, Coloured, Blotting, Tissue, and other Miscellaneous Papers, together with Fancy Stationery of every kind in ordinary use. A. & R. pub- lish a variety of useful School Books at low prices, and, in particular, Editions of the adniirablr series cf National School I^ooks which they obtained permission from the Board to reprint, and which they were the first to introduce into the Province. The following works published by A. 8c R. will be found use- ful to the Traveller or intending Settler :— Map op Canada, compiled from the latest authorities by Edward Staveley, Esq., and engraved in the best style by Mr. Johnston of Edinburgh — price 8s 9d on roller, or 6s 3d in pocket fern.. History of Canada, by Robert Christie, Esq., M. P. P. 2 vols, published. 10s. History of Canada, by J. Roy. Though intended principally for the use of schools and families, this work gives an admirable sketch of the History of the Province under both the French and British Governments, and a Geographical description of the Province. Price 2s bd. The National Atlas, by A. K. Johnston, Esq., of Edinburgh, Geographer to the Queen — a magnificent edition, expressly for the Province, at the greatly reduced price of £3 2s 6d currency. The Magistrates' Manual, by Hugh Taylor, Esq.. Advocate. This work affords much useful information not only to the Ma- gistrate, but to all who desire to be acquainted with the Law? of Canada in many important particulars. Price 8s 9d. &c. &c. &c. &c. 1 i ^.X' t 1- CATAIOGUE OF BOOKS. ' Tables 8H0wino the Interest at 6 per cent, on any sum froi £i to £1000 from one day to three hundred and sixty-five day- and from one month to twelve months. Price 7a 6d. Commercial Tables for calculating Interest after the rates of ♦) per cent, and 5 per cent., Commission from |th to 5 per cent., Exchange on England, Army Sterling, &.c. Price 33 9d. Fe3senden's Tables for converting Sterling Money into Provin- cial Currency at various rates of Exchange. Price 3s 9d. The Mercantile Calculator, arranged for the British Colonies, particularly adapted to the Forwarding, Iron, Ashes, Drug and Grocery Trades. Price . Os. The Garland — a choice collection of Songs. Price Is 3d. The Housewife's Guide — a Book of Domestic Cookery. Fric Is 3d, or Is in paper covers. And the above works can also be procured at the Bookstores ol Messrs. R. & C. Chalmers, J. M'Coy, C. Bryson, B. Dawson, R. & A. Miller. Three Rivers, G. Stobbs. Quebec, P. Sinclair. Sher brooke, W. Brooks. Bytown, A. Bryson. Brockville, W. Buell Perth, J. Allan. Kingston, Ramsay, Armour & Co. Belleville, J Harrison. Toronto, Scobie & Balfour, H. Rowsell, and T. M*Lear Hamilton, M. Mackendrick. Niagara, J. Simpson. London, T Craig. r 4 any sum from iixty-fivc ilo>N 6d. he rates ol' >; o 5 per cent., c 3s 9d. Y into Provin- e 3s 9d. the British Iron, Ashes, Is 3d. )okery. frict Bookstores ol Dawson, R. & nclair. Sher- le, W. Buell. Belleville, J ndT. 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