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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. rrata to pelura. □ 32X 1 2 3 :t ; ' 2 3 4 ■ 6 /'.-/.' V R CxVPTAOT Cook CAPTAIN COOK'S ROUND THE WORLD FOR MAKING DISCOVERIES TOinrARDS THB NORTH AND SOUTH FOLiiS. # WITH AN ABrmsaax* % \ nUNTBD BT RUSSEIX AND AIXJCN. 1811. t ^Aaxv:^t\. \SVV fW^ I 4^ r ,■'.■' ■ff CONTENTS. FIRST VOYAGE. CHAP. I. An account of Captain Conk — The departure of the Endeavour from Plymoutli — Her passage to the island of Madeira— A description of its natural curiosities and trade — A particular account of Funcliiale, the capital of Madeira — The passage from Madeira to Rio de Janeiro — An account of this capital of the Portuguese dominions in South America, and of the circumjacent country— Incidents that happened while the % Endeavour lay in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Past \ CHAP. II. The departure of the En\deavour from Rio de Janeiro— Her passage from the entrance of the streight of Le Maire—- The inhabitants of Terra del Fuego described— -Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ascend a mountain in search of plants — An ac- count of what happened to them in this excursion— The En- deavour passes through the streight Le Maire — ^An account of her passage, and a further description of the inhabitants of Terra del Fuego— An account of Cape Horn, and the newly discovered islands— An account of thtir figure and appearance — The inhabitants described ; with a narrative of the various incidents during the course, and on the Endeavonr's arrival among them. 19 CHAP. III. The Endeavour arrives at Otaheite, or George the Third's Island — An account of several incidents durmg his stay in this island — Excursions in the woods— Visits from several of the chiefs— The music of the natives, and their manner of burying their dead— Other .excursioils and incidents, both on board and on shore — First interview with Oberea, the sup- posed queen of the island — The quadrant stolen, and the con- sequences — A visit to Tootahah, an Indian chief— A wrest- ling match described— European seeds are sown— The Indians give our people names. 27 CHAP. IV. An extraordinary visit — Divine service attended by the natives of Otaheite— An uncommon sight — ^Tubourai Tamaide found guilty of theft— A relation of what happened at die fort, when observing the transit of Venus — A description of an Indian funeral^ Preparations made for leaving the island — An ac* count of their departure, and the behaviour of the natives on this occasion. 38 3^81 MU- ' t « ! V IV CONTENTS, CHAP. V. ■ v^' An historical and descriptive account of Otaheite — Of the island and its productions — Of the inhabitants, their dress, dwellings, manner of living, diversions and diseases. 5 1 ' CHAP. VI. The endeavbiir continues her voyage — Visits the island in the neighhourhooii of Otaheite — An account of several incidents, and of various particulars relative to the inhabitants — The passage of the Endeavour from Oteroah to New Zealand — Events on going ashore, and incidents while the ship was in Poverty Bay — The countjy deicril)ed — Excursions to Cape Tumagain, and return to Tolaga— -The inliabitants described, and a narrative of what happened wImIc we were on that part of the coast— The range from Tolaga to Mercury Bay — Incidents that happened on board the Endeavour and ashore — A desciiption of the country — Sails from Mercury Bay to the Bay of Islands— Description of the Indians on the banks of the Thames— Interview and skirmishes with the natives-— Range from the Bay of Islands round North Cape. 54 CHAP. VII. The Endeavour continues .her voyage to Queen Cliarlotte's Sound — Transactions in the Sound — A shocking custom o the inhabitants — The coast of Admiralty Bay described— The departure of the Endeavour from New Zealand, an other particulars— An account of New Zealand, the inhabit ants, and customs. '7i1 CHAP. VIH. Passage from New Zealand to Botany Bay, in New Holland Various incidents related — A description of the country,, am its inhabitants — Sails from Botany Bay to Trinity Bay Her dangerous situation in her passage from Trinity Bay ti Endeavour River. 8 CHAP. IX. The ship refitted— I ransactions during that time— The count and its inhabitants described— The range (rom Endeavo River to the extremity of the country — The Endeavo departs from New South Wales — That country and peo described. 91 CHAP. 3t. The Endeavour continues her voyage from New South Wai to New Guinea — An accoui't of incidents upon landing thei —Proceeds from New Guinea to the island of Savau — * produce and inhabitants — Run from Savau to Batavia Transactions while the Endeavour was refitting at t place. 1 Of the island iS, dwellings, 51 ; island in the cral inc'ulents, ibitants — The :w Zealand-- ic si lip was in vsions io Cape ants described, re on that part [ercury Bay— ir and ashore — ercury Bay to Indians on the lishcs with the round North 54 1 iccn Cliarlotte'sJ eking custom of Jay described— iv Zealand, am ,nd, the inhabit- New Holland- the country, aiv] Trinity Bay- [» Trinity Bay tj si ne— Thecounti (rom Endeavoi -The Endeavo« untry and peoi ^ew South Wal jpon landing thei and of Savau— 1| ,au to Batavia- refitting at tl 1 COIITENT9. T ' CHAP. XI. An account of Batavia, and its various prottuciioAs — The En<> deavour sails from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope— The Cape and St. Helena described— Remarks on the Hottentots — The Endeavour returns to England, and anchors in the Downs on VVednesday, June 12, 1771. 129 SECOND VOYAGE. CHAt>. I. Tlw Re&olution and Adventure take their departure from Dept^ lbr(i— Touch at the island of St. J ago — Pursue their voyage to the Cape of Good Hope— Departure from the Cape — Con- tinue their voyage in search of a southern continent — Sequel of this search — Separation from the ships, and the arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay. 171 CHAP. II. A narrative of nvhat happened in Dusky Bay— Interview with the natives— Sails to Charlotte^s Sound— -Is there joined by the Adventure — Transactions in this place — Captain Fur- neaux's narrative — The ships proceed to the island of Ota- heite, and their arrival there — Are in a critical situation. 186 CHAP. III. [State of the island— X^ustoms of the natives — Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Isles — Hervey^s Island discovered — Incidents at Middleburgh— The two ships arrive at Amster- dam — Incidents that happen dot ing their stay at that island. 2 i I CHAP.iy. he Resolution and Adventure continue their voyage from Am- sterdam*— Proceed from Queen Charlotte's Sound — An inter- view with the inhabitantS'^The final separation of the two ships— Transactions and incidents in Queen Charlotte's Sound — The inhabitants discovered to be cannibals — The Re- solution departs from the Sound, and proceeds in search after her consort- Course of the Resolution in search of the sup- posed continent; and the methods pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean— Arrives at Easter Island, and trans- actions there, &c. 222 CHAP. V. e Resolution sails from Easter Island to the Marquesas- Departs from the Marquesas, with an account of the inha- bitants, &:c.— The Resolution leaves Otaheite< — Her arrival at the island Huaheine — Various incidents related — ^The ship roceeds to Ulietea— Incidents during her stay, and the cha- acter of Ocdidec. . 228 VI COKTEKTS. CHAP. vr. Departure of t1\e Resolution from Ulietea — Incidents at Savage Islam) — Passage from Savage Island to Kotterdam — Transac- tions at this place, and the insolence of {\\c natives—An ac- count of the people in Turtle Island— Tiansactions while there, and ferocious behaviour of the inhabitants— -The Re- solution continues her course from Port Sandwich—Steers in a direction for Sandwich Island, in order to discover the southern extremity of the Archipelago— Hostile behaviour of the natives of Sandwich liile-r-More new islands dicovered. 245 CHAP. VII. New Caledonia discovered — The Resolution is obliged to depart fi om Caledonia— Continues her voyage to New Zealand- She an ivt s at Queen Charlotte*s Sound-— An account of in- cidents while the ship lay there. 260 CHAP. vni. The departure of the Resolution fronra New Zealand — Her pas- sage from thence to Terra del Fuego— The run from Cape Descada to Christmas Sound— The Resolution departs from Christmas Sound — Doubles Cape Horn — Her passage through Streight Le Maire, and round Staten Island— Departs from Staten Island — The island of Georgia discovered, and a descriptive account of the same. 269 CHAP. IX. The Resolution continues her course— Newland and Saunderi Isles discovered — Conjectures, and some reasons that there may be land about the south pole-^The Resolution alters her course tu :He east — Proceedings till her arrival at the Cape of Good Hope — Sails for the isle Fayal, and returns to Eng- land—Captain Furneaux's narrative, from ths time the Ad- venture was separated from the Resolution, to her arrival in England, including the report of Lieutenant Burney, concern- ing the untimely death of her boat's crew, who were mur- dered by some of the natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound. 32 1 ^y^^i^*^^^^ THIRD VOYAGE. CHAP. I. Captain Cook's departure from England — Junction with the Discovery at the Cape of Good Hope — Passage to Prince Edward's Island — Arrival at Van Dieman's Land — Interview with the natives — Arrival at Queen Charlotte's Sound- Particulars of the horrid massacre of the Adventure's boat's crew— Departure from Queen Charlotte's Sound. 322 1 CONTENTS. ▼il CHAP. II. Refreshments obtained at Wenooa-ette — Singularity in the na- tives of Hervey's Island — Rich submarine grotio at I'aimer- ston's Island — Arrival at the Friendly Islands—* Amiable character of the natives— Description of their persons- Transactions with the natives—Captain Clerke^s expedient to prevent their depredations— Opinions of the Islanders of a volcano-^Different entertaiaments exhibited by the English and the natives— Curious mode of shaving— Visit of Pnulaho, king of the Friendly Islands — Poulaho^s inanimate viceroy- Oaring to their deity to deprecate death — Departure from the Friendly Islands. 349 CHAP. III. Island of Toobouai discovered — Arrival at Otaheite— Omai's reception— Interview with Waheladooa, the' chief of Tiara- boo— Omai's imprudent conduct — Girls dressed to bring a present— Omai's war canoe— Otoo's present and message to the king of Great Britain— Departure from Otaheite, and visit to Eimeo — Conclusion of the history of Omai, and of the two New Zealand youths. 363 CHAP. IV. Arrival at Ulietea— Intelligence from Omai— Desertion from the ships— The chief 's family confined on that account- Con- spiracy to seize *the captains Cook and Gierke — Deserter; brought back— Christmas Island and the Sandwich Islands discovered, &c. &c. 380 CHAP. V. Curious marine phaenomena— Arrival at Nootka Sound — Inter- course with the natives — Description of their persons — Their general dispositions, and their eagerness to possess iron and other metals. 394 CHAP. VI. Disovery of Cook*s River — Reflections on this discovery — Pos- session taken of the country and river in his majesty's name—* A beautiful bird described — Conjectures concerning a Rus- sian letter brought on board by one of the natives— Pic- turesque appearance of a volcano— Second visit frum a na- tive — Providential escape — Arrival at the island of Oonalash- ka, and intercourse with the natives. 412 CHAP. VII. Return to the sourtiward— Burney's island — Pass the eastern cape of Asia-— Description and situation ot ir— Arrival at Norton Sound— Interview with the natives — Description of the Russian settlement at Oonalashka— Mowee and Owhyhee, two of the Sandwich islands, discovered- The natives refuse to drink wgar-cane beer. 426 Tin ccyimsNTB. CHAP. VIII. Description of I^rakooa Bay — Ceremoniet «C tlie landing of captuii) Cook— Arrival of TcneeoboOy king of tlie island — Visit from the king, and returned by captain Cook— Tcr> recoboo's magnificent present — llie ships leave ilie isbnd— ' The Rcsolotion damaged in a gale, and obliged to rctiiri>— Death of captain Cook. 44! CHAP. IX. Death of captain Cook, with aik account of the transaciionaat the isbnd of Owhvbec, subseqiieat to the death of captain Cook~- capiain Clerke w f^partare from Owbyhee— -Arrival at Atooi — -FiiBil departure from the Sandwich Isbndf — Description of the natives, and treatment of their women. 454 CHAP. X. Rctinrn to Kamtschatka — Dtrath of captain Clerke— An account of his servicer— Anchor in the harbour of Sr. Feter and St. Pkol — Fimcial of captain Clerke — Drpartiire from Awatska Bay— captain King sent to Canton-.-Arrived at the Cape of Good Hope — At the Orkneys ; aiKl at the Nore —Concluding reflections. 51 f. ^^^^^^ APPENDIX. Commencement and progress of the operatbni for forming a colonj at Port Jackson and Norfolk Island; interspersed with incidental occurrences. 529 / i*»i«Ml'lW|- CAPTAIN COOK'S Voyages round the World. CHAP. I. An account of Captain Cook — Tlie departure of the Endeavour from Plyiiwith — Her passage to the island of Madeira — A description of its natural curiosities and trade- A particular account of Funchiale, the capital of Madeira — The passage from Madeira to Rio de Janeiro — An account of this capital of the Portuguese dominions in South America, and of the circumjacent country — Inci- dents that happened while tfie Endeavour lay in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. -i WHEN merit bursts through the clouds of origi- nal indigence, "when genius and abilities giin the palm of reward, the biographer becomes animated with his subject, and feels the social sympathies ex- pand within his breast. Distinguished as this country is for its able navi- gators, it acquires no inconsiderable accession of fame from boasting the name of Cook, whose three principal voyages we are now about to detail in an unbroken series. This able and amiable man was bom at Marton, in Cleyeland, a village about four miles from Great Ayton, in Yorkshire^ on the 27th of October, 1728. His father, who lived in the humble station of a farmer's servant, married a woman in the same 1 A sphere 2 CAPTAIN COOK S sphere of life with himself; and both were noted in their neighbourhood for their honesty, sobriety, and- industr}', qualities which reflect a lustre on the lowest ranks. When our navigrator was about two years old, hit father and family removed to Great Ayton, and was appointed to superintend a considerable farm belong- ing to the late Thomas Scottowe, Esq. known by the name of Airyholm. As the father long continued in this trust, the son, of course, followed the same servile employment, as far as his tender years would admit. His early edu- cation appears to have been very slender; but at the vk^e of thirteen we find him put under the tuition of Mr. Pullen, who taught a school at Ayton, where he learned the rudimente of arithmetic and book-keep- ing, and is said to have shewn a remarkable facility in acquiring the science of numbers. About the beginning of 1745, when young Cook was seventeen years old, his father bpund mm ap- prentice tolVIr. William Sanderson, for four years, to (earn the grocery and haberdashery business, at Snaith, a populous fishing town about ten miles from Whitby. But as he evinced a strong partiality for a maritime life, for which his predilection was probably strength- ened by the situation of the place, and the company with which, it is probable, he associated, after a year and a half's servitude, on some trivial disagree- ment with his master, he obtained his release from his engagements, and determined to follow the bent of his inclinatipn. While he continued at Snaith, according to Mr. Sanderson's account, he discovered a maturity of judgment, and a quickness in calculations beyond hits years. In July 1746, he was bound apprentice to Messrs. Walkers, of Whitby, for the term of three years, which he served to the full satisfaction •f his masters. His first voyage was on board tile ship Freelbve, burthen about four hundred and Bfty tons, chiefly employ ed mttummmm FIRST VOYAGS. 8 employed in the coal trade from Newcastle to London. In May 1748, his master ordered him home to assist in ^gp^S ^^^ fitting for sea a fine new ship, named the Three Brothers, of six hundred tons. This was designed to improve him in his professions and to qualify him for a better birth, when his servitude should expire. After two coal voyages in this vessel, she was taken into the s'^.rvice of government, a;id sent as a transport to Middleburg, to convey some troops to Dublittf These being landed at their de* stination, another corps was taken on board> and brought to Liverpool. From thence the ship prot ceeded for Deptford, where she was paid oft in April, 1749. The remaining part of the season Cook served on board her in the Norway trade. Being honourably released from his engagements, he next entered on board a ship employed in the Baltic trader and peiformed several voyages of no ^reat importance, during the two following years, n 1752, his old master promoted him to be mate of one of his ships, called the Friendship, in which ca- pacity he acted for some time, with so much credit to himself and satisfaction to the owners, that it is said, he was ofifered the place of captain. This, however he declined, and fortunate was it for his country he did so. In the spring' of 1754, hostilities commenced between Great^Britain and France, As press-war^ rants had been issued, Mr. Cook* who then lay in the river Thames, afraid of being pi^essed, resolved, if possible, to conceal himself; but afterwards reflect- ing on the difficulty of this, he adopted the resolution of entering as^ a volunteer in the royal navy, *< having ^ mind,»'* as he expressed himself, ** to try his fortune in that wdrj" In pursuance of this design, he repaired to a house of rendezvous at Wapping, and entered on board the £agle, a sixt^gun ship, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer* To this ship Captain, afterwai*d8 A2 gir f. m wm 4 CAPTAIN COOK^S I' Sir Hugh Palliser, being appointed in October fol- lowing, Cook*s diligence and attention to the duties of his profession did not escape the notice of that in- telligent commander, and he met with every encou- ragement compatible with his humble station. 'Cook's merit having been blazoned among his connectiqns and friends in his native country, some of them generously interested themselves in his behalf, and procured a letter of recommendation to his cap- tain from ]\fr^ Gsbaldeston, member of parliament for Scarborough, in which it was requested he would point 6Ut in what manner they could contribute to nis promotion. Ckptain Palliser did fuUjustice to Cook's character, and suggested, that a master's warrant might, per- haps, 1^ procured for him, by which he woulcf be put in d, situation suited to his talents, and be enabled to refiect credit on those who honoured him with their patronage. ' In consequence of this, interest was made for a master's warrant, which he obtained to the Grampus sloop, in May 1759; but this appointment did not take place, as the former master une\pectedly re- turiied. In a few days, however, he was made master of the Garland; but here too he was disap- Eointed; for, on enquiry, it was found that the ship ad already sailed. At last, he was appointed to the Mercury, which was destined for North America, under the command of Sir Charles Saunders, who in conjunction with General Wolfe, was then engaged in the memorable siege of Quebec. During that signal transaction, it was found ne- cessaiT to obtain the soundings of the river St. Law- rence, directly opposite to the French ca^p at Mont- morency and Beauport. As this was universally es- teemed to be. a dangerous and difhcult service, and as Cook's sagacity and intrepidity were now well known. Captain ralliser recommended him for the under- taking ; and in the choice that was mr^le the service was not injured, (^ook executed his office in the corapletest FTUST VOYAGE. 5 completest manner, and to the entire satisfaction of his superiors. He did not, however, effect tliis with- out oreat risk. Beinj^ engaged in this pursuit for se- . vera! successive nights, he was at last discovered by the enemy, who sent a number of canoes tilled with Indians to surround him, and he had no other alter- native but to make for the Isle of Orleans, where ho was so closely pursued, that he had scarcely leaped from tilt; bow of the boat, before the Indians entered bv the item, and carried her off in triumph. There is little reason to believe, that before this period Cook had used a pencil, or was acquainted witli the principles of drawing; but such was the vigour ot his mind, and his aptitude for the acquisition of knowledge, that he soon mastered every object to whicJi he applied ; and notwithstanding the disad- vantages under which he laboured, he furnished the admi'-al with as complete a tlraught of the channel and lis soundings, as conltl have been furnished by the most expert surveyor in peace and by day-light. Our navigator performed another service, and less important, and which redounds equally tc his honour. The navigation of the river St. Lawrence is both ditticult and dangerous, and was then particularly so to the English) who were strangei*s in that quarter. The admiral, therefore, who had conceived a very favourable opinion of Mr. Cook's abilities, appointed him to survey the river below Quebec, which he also executed with the same diligence and ability he had displayed on the former occasion. This chai*t of the river, when completed, was pubhshed, with soundings and directions for safely navigating it; ^nd so great was the accuracy observed, that it has superseded all other surveys. After the conquest of Canada, so glorious to every person who had a share in it, Mr. Cook was ap- pointed knaster of the Northumberland, under Lonl Colvill, on the 2d of September, 1759. In this tiiiip his lordship continued the following winter as commodore, at Halifax j and Cook's conduct, in his new a CAPTAIN cook's new station, did not fail, as well as on former occa- sions» to gaii^ him the friendship and est^ein of his commander. ■ Sensible that he was n» J9 iii the road to promotion, he shewed a laudable desire to qualify nimself t0 adorn his profession, by devoting his leisure hours to the study of such branches of knowledge as reflect a lustre on naval life. At Halifax he first read Euclid's Elements, and stu(^'.ed astronomy. The books he was able to procure, were few indeed: but appli- cation and perseverance supplied m^ny deficiencies, and enablecl him to make a progress, which a man of less genius could not attain under much superior advf "itages. He received a lieutenant's commission on the 1st of April, 1760, and daily advanced in the career of glory. In September. 176^, he assisted 9^ the recapture of Newfoundland, after which the English ileet rems^ined some time at Placentia, in order tp put that place into a better state of defence. During this period, Mr. Cook had another oppoilunity of dis- playmg his diligence, and manifesting his ^eal in the service of his country ; he surveved the harbour and heights of that place, and, by this means» attracted the notice of Captain, afterwards Admii*al Greaves, who was at that time g^overnor of Newfoundland. Captain Greaves having entered into conversation with him, found him possessed ^f such intelligence and judginent, that he conceived a very favourably opinion of his abilities in general, and iiis nautical skill in particular; and in cultivating a longer ac- quaintance with him, was still more aud more pre- possessed in his favour. Endowed with a vigorous and active mind, and stimulated, perhaps, by the success that |iad attended his past labours, and the hopes of futmre promotion. Cook continued to display th^ most unremitting assiduity to make himselt acquainted with the North American coast, and to facilitate its navigation ; while the esteem which Captain Greaves had justly conceived FIRST VOYAGE. T conceived for him, was heightened by the concurrent testimonies of approbation, which all the officers^ under whom he had served, so freely paid him. Toward the close of 1762, Lieutenant Cook re- turned to England, and on the 21st of December he married at Barking, in Essex, a young lady of the name of Batts, whom he tenderly loved, and who had every claim to his warmest affection and esteem. It is said, that Cook had been godfather to this lady, and that he declared at that time his wish for their future union. If this anecdote is true, it is a singular instance of the firmness of his character, ana the strength of his attachments. His situation in life, however, and the high and important services to which he was called, did not suffer him to enjoy, without interruption, that matrimonial felicity which both parties seem to have been so well qualified to taste. On the conclusion of the war in 1763, Captain Greaves was again sent out as governor of New- foundland ; and as that island was considered of great commercial importance, and had been a principal object of contention between Great-Britain and France, the governor obtained, at his pressing solici- tation, an establishment for the survey of its coasts; and Lieutenant Cook was appointed to carry this plan into execution. He, therefore, went out with nis friend the grovemor; and having surveyed the small islands of St. Pierre &nd Miquelon, which» by treaty, had been ceded to France; after the busi- ness was finished he returned to Englstnd, at the close of the season. In the beginning of the following year, he* ac- companied his former patron. Sir Hugh Palliser, who had been appointed governor of Labradore and Newfoundland, and prosecuted his surveys of the coasts as before. For tliis employment. Cook was, by the unanimous \ oice of the best judges, deemed extremely well qua- Ufied; and the charts which he afterwards published^ reflect 8 C.iPTAIN COOK S reflect the highest credit on his abilities. He also ex- plored the interior of Newfoundland, in a much more accurate manner than had ever been done before ; and by penetrating into the heart of the country, disco- vered sevei'al large lakes, the position of which he ex- actly asceitained. In this service he appears to have been occasionally en^ai^ed till 17H7. However, we find him with Sir William Bumaby, on the Jamaica station, in 1765 ; and that officer having' occasion to send dispatches to the governor of Jucatan, relative to the log cutters in the bay of Honduras, Lieu- tenant Cook was selected for that mission, and he performed it in a manner that entitled him to the ap- probation of the admiral. A relation of Jthis voyage and journey was published in 1769, under the title of ** Remarks on a Passage from the River Balise, in the Bay of Honduras, to Merida, the capital of the Pro- vince of Jucatan, in the Spanish West Indies, by Lieutenant Cook.'* That our navigator had, by this time, made a con- siderable proficiency in practical astronomy, is evident from a short paper, drawn up by him, which was inserted in the eleventh volume of the Philosophical Transactions, entitled, " An observation of an Eclipse of the Sun at the Island of Newfoundland, August 5, 1766, with the Longitude of the Place of Observation deduced from it." This observation was made at one of the Burgeo islands, near Cape Ray, in latitude 47 deg. 36 min. 19 sec. on the south-west extremity of Newfoundland ; and Cook's paper having been com- municated to Mr. Witchell, he compared it with an observation made on the same eclipse by professor Hornsby, and thence computed the diiference of lon- gitude of the places of observation, making proper allowance for parallax, and the prolate spheroidal figure of the earth. That Cook was now accounted an able mathematician, the admission of this paper into the Pliilosophical Transactions, and the notice that wa^ taken of it, will sufiSciently verify. 4 For FIRST VOYAGE. 9 For the present reign it was reserved to carry the spirit of enterprise to its fullest extent, and to direct it to the arcoinplishment of the noblest purposes. As soon as the return of peace jjave an ofiportnnity for promotinjjf the interests of science, by enlarij^inj^ the Iwunds of discovery, two voyages were projected by his present majesty, which were performecf by Cap- tains Byron, SVallis, and Carteret; and before the two latter gentlemen returned, a third was resolved on, the principal object of which was the improve- ment of astronomy. It having been long before calculated, that the planet Venus would pass over the Sun*s disk in 1769, it was judged that the most proper place for observing this phenomenon, would be either at the Marquesas, or at one of those islands to which Tasman bad given the several appellations of Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburgh; but which are now better known under tlie general name of the Friendly Isles. This being a matter of much importance in the science of astronomy, the Royal Society, with a laudable zeal for its advancement, presented a memorial to his ma- jesty, requesting, among other things, that a vessel might be fitted out at the expence of government, to convey proper persons to observe this transit at one of the places already mentioned. Tlie petition being readily complied with, and orders having been given by the lords commissioners of the admiralty to provide a vessel for that purpose ; on the third of April, Mr. Stephens, the secretary to the board, infomied the society that every thing was expediting accoitiing to their wishes. Mr. Dairy mple was originally fixed on to superin- tend this expedition: a man eminent in science, a member of tiie Royal Society, and who had already distinguished himself respecting the geography of the Southern Ocean. As this gentleman had been regu- larly bred to the sea, he insisted on having a brevet con;mission, as captain of the vessel, before he would undertake the employ. Sir "Edward 'fiawke, who 1 B then wm mm ^^^\ 10 CAPTAIN COOK » then presided at the ndmiralty hojud, violently op- posed this measure; and beinj? pressed on the subject, declared, that nothing could induce him to g'ive the sanction of his name to such a connnission. Both parties were inflexible; and it was, thtro- fore, thought expedient to look out some other person tp conduct the expedition. Accorflingly, Mr. Stopliens having recommended Lieutenant Cook, and this re- commendation being strengthened by tlie testimony of Sir Hugh Palliser, who was well acquainted with Cook*s merit and abilities for the discharge of this office, he was appointed to this distinguished post by the lords connnissioners, and promoted to the rank of lieutenant of the ro}al navy, on the 2oth of May, 17G8. This appointment having taken place, Sir Hugh Palliser was commissioned to provide a vessel adapted for such a vovajre. After examinins" a areat number of ships, then lying in the Thames, in conjunction with Cook, of whose judgment he entertained the highest opinion, they at last fixed on the Endeavour, a vessel of three hundred and seventy tons, which had been built for the coal trade. In the interim. Captain Wallis having returned from his voyage round the world, and having signified to the Royal Society, that Port Royal Harbour in King George's Island, now called Otaheite, would be the most convenient place for observing the transit, his opinion was adopted, and the observers were ordered to repair thither. Mr. Charles Green, the coadjutor of Dr. Bradley, the astronomer royal, was nominated to assist Captam Cook in conducting the astronomical part of the un- dertaking; and he was accompanied also by Joseph Banks, Esq. the present president of the Royal Society, whose baronetage, to wliich he has been since raised, reflects honour on his sovereign and the order. This friend of science, at an early period of life, possessed of an opulent fortune, and zealous to apply it to the best ends, embarked on this tedious and hazardous enterprise, FIRST VOYAGE. n eiitorprisc, tinimatccl by the wish alone of improvinir himsolf, ii\\i\ eiilari>ins>- the hounds of know led ii^c. He took tw(]( dniujj^htsmeu with him, and had like- wise a secretary and four servants in his retinue. Dr. Solander, an inji^enious and learned Swede, who had been appointed to a place in the British Museum, and was an adept in natural philosophy, likewise joined the expedition. Possessed of the enthusiasm with which Linnieus inspired his dis- ciples, he braved dang'er in the prosecution of his favourite studies^ and beings a man of erudition and capacity, he added no small eclat to the voyage in which he embarked. Though the principal intention of this expedition was to observe the transit of Venus, it was thouglit proper to make it comprehend other objects j»!so. Captain Cook was, therefore, directed, after he had accomplished his main business, to proceed in mak- iiio- farther discoveries in the South Seas, which now began to be explored with uncommon resolution. The complement of the Endeavour consisted of eighty-four persons. She was victualled for eighteen months, and ten carriage and twelve swivel guns, with abundance of ammunition, and all manner of stores were taken on board. Being comjiletely fitted for sea, Captain Cook sailed from Deptford on the 30th of July 1768, and >on the 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound, from which, after a few days stay, they proceeded to sea. The first land they made, after their leaving the Channel, was on the second of September, when Cape Finisterre and Cape Ortugal, in Spain, both came in view. They arrived on the 13th at Madeira, and anchored in Fonchial Road. Here unfortu- nately they lost Mr. Weir, the master's mate, who, in heaving the anchor, fell overboard and was drowned. * This island has a beautiful appearance from the sea, those parts of hills which present themselves being covered with vines. The 12 ,»»j CAPTAIN COOK S The only article of trade is wine, which is made by pressing the juice out in a square wooden vessel. The peraons employed, having taken oif their stock- ings and jackets, get into it, and with their elbowft and feet press out as much of tlie juice as they can. In like manner the stalks, being tied together, are pressed under a square piece of wood by a lever, with a stone fastened to the end of it. There are no wheel carriages of any sort, nor have the people any thing that resembles them, except a hollow board, or sledge, upon which those wine vessels are drawn, that are too big to be carried by hand. Nature has been very liberal in her gifts to Madeira. The inhabitants are not without ingenuity, --ut they want industry. The soil is very rich, and there is such a variety in the climate, that there is scarcely any article, either of the necessaries or luxuries of life, which cannot be cultivated in the island. Pine apples and mangoes grow almost spontaneously in the town, and great variety of frait upou the hills. Corn is also very large and plenty. T1h3 beef, mutton and pork, are remarkably good. Foucho, which is fennel in Portuguese, gave name to the town of Fonchial. It is seated at tne bottom of a bay; indifferently built, the streets narrow and very wr.etchedly paved. In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, with pictures and ima- ges of saints, for the most part indifferently executed. A better taste prevails in some of the convents, par- ticularly that of the Franciscans, where simplicity and neatness unite. The infimiary does honour to the architect, and is the most capital ediffce in the whole place. . There are many very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near five thousand one hundred feet in height, per- pendicularly from its base. The inhabitants are com- puted to be between seventy an4 eighty thousand; and the revenue arising from the customs, is supposed «to amount to twenty or thirty thontjaod pouiids fter- sterling per annum. ' On ■'^^'S^^B^' FIRST VOYAGE. n On the 10th of September we Kailed from Madeira, nnd on the 21st we hiiw the islands called the Sah a^es, northward of the Canaries. The ])rinci])al of these was about live leajj^es to the south half west. On the 2;ld the Peak of Teneriffe bore west by south half south. The heip^ht of this mountain is 15,379 feet, wliich is about 148 yards less than three miles. On the 7tli of October Mr. Banks went out in a boat, and caught what our sailors call a Portug^uese man of war; together with several shell fishes, which are always found floating upon the water. On the 26th, we crossed the line with the usual ceremonies; and as provisions by this time began to grow short, we resolved to put into the harbour of Rio de Janeiro; and on the 8th of November we saw the coast of Brazil. We stood oft' along shore till the 12th, having in view successively Cape Thomas, and an island just without Cape Frio, anci then made sail for Rio de Janeiro on the 13th in the morning. On the 14th Captain Cook went on shore, and ob- ^ tained leave to furnish the ship with povisions; but this permission was clogged with the conditions of • employing an inhabitant as a factor, and of sending* a soldier in the Endeavour*s boat every time she came from shore to the vessel. To these uncivil terms the Captain made many objections ; but the viceroy was determined to insist on them, neither would he [per- mit Mr. Banks. and Dr. Solander to remain on shore, nor suffer the former to go up the country to collect plants. Captain Cook conceiving from these and other marks of jealousy, that the viceroy thought they were come to trade, used all his endeavours to con- vince him to the contrary; and acquainted him, that they were bound to the South Seas, to observe the transit of Venus over the disk of the sun, an object of great consequence to the improvement of navigation; but the viceroy by his answer seemed ignorant of the phsenomeuon. An oflicer was now appointed to at-» tend the Captain, which order he was desired to un- derstand {IS an intended compliment^ however, when he 34 CAPTAIN COOK\S lie wonlil have derliiKMl such a cercnioiiy, the viceroy very politely forced it upon him. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were not a little chajjrined on hearinsf that they would not he permit- ted to reside on shore, and still more so when they underatood that they were not even allowed to cpiit the ship; for the viceroy had ordered, that the Cap- tai-: only, with such sailors as were required hy their duty, should come on shore. However they attempt- ed t9 ^o on shore, but were stopped hy the g^nnrd- boat; yet several of the crew, without the knowledge of the centinel, let themselves down by a rone from the cabin window into the boat about miduig^ht, and drove away with the tide, till they were out of hear- ing. They afterwards landed on an unfrerpiented paifof the country, and were treated by the inhabi- tants with great civility. Captain Co'^k, mieasy with the restrictions of the viceroy, remons ted with him ; but the latter would return no other .i)sw attended him, both to and from the shore. Two memorials were now drawn up and presented to the viceroy, one writ- ten by the Captain, and the other by T-Ir. Banks: but the answers returned were by no means satisfactory. Several papers passed between them and the viceroy to no good purpose ; from whence the captain thought it necessary, in order to vindicate his own compliance, to urge the viceroy to an act of force in the execution of his orders. For this purpose he sent Lieut. Hicks with a packet, giving him orders not to admit of a guard in his boat. As this gentleman was resolved to obey his captain's commands, the officer of the guard- boat did not oppose him by force, but acquainted the viceroy with what had happened, on which the lieu- tenant wiis sent away with the packet unopened. FIBST VOYAOC. It >Vhen lie rtiiiriiod, lie found a jriianl of soldiers )»lac43(i ill the bout »«»»d insisted on their quitting* it. Whcre- ui)on the offiecr seized the Ixuit's crew, and conducted ilieni under an escort to prison, and the lituiteiiant was sent hack to the ship guarded. When the cap- tain was informed of this transaction, he wrote to the viceroy to demand his hoat and her crew, inclosiiitr tlu: memorial which Mr. llicks his lieutenant had hrought back. These })a)MU's he sent by a i>etty officer, to a\ oiil continnin«? the dispute concernini|^ the ^uard, which must have been kept up by a coniinissioiu/l ollicer. An answer was now promised by the viceroy ; but before this could arrive, the long boat, which had four pipes of rum on board, was driven windward, (the rope breaking that was thrown from the ship,) together with a small skiff that was fastened to thtj, boat: Immediate orders were given for manning the vawl, which being dispatched accordingly with pro- per tUrections, returned, and brought the people on board the next morning ; from whom Captain Cook learned that the long-boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a grappling, and quitted her, and falHng in with a reef of rocks on her return, they were forced to cut the fastenings of Mr. Banks's little boat and sent her adrift. The captain now dispatched another letter to his excellency, wherein he informed him of the accident, desired he would assist him with a boat to recover his own, and, at the same time, re- newed his demand of the delivery of the pinnace and her crew. The viceroy granted the request, but in his answer to the captain's remonstrance, suggested some doubts that he entertained, whether the Endea- vour was really a king's ship, and aLo accused the crew of smuggling. Captain Cook, in his reply, said, that he was willing to shew his commission, adding, if any attempt should be made to carry on a contraband trade, he requested hb excellency would order the oflender to be taken into custody. The dis- pute being thus terminated, Mr. Banks attempted to elude the vigilance of th^ guard, which he found "•"WT^^^p .' ■ A.I IUJ.I.¥?1«WP«WP^(^ Ifl CAPTAIN cook's means to do, and got safe on shore on the 20th in the morning. He took care to avoid the town, and passed the day in the fields, where he could best gra- tify his curiosity. Mr. Banks found the country j>eo- ple inclined to treat with him civilly, and was invited to their habitations. But it was afterwards heaixi, that search had been making for this gentleman when absent. He and I>r. Bolander therefore re- solved to run no more risques in going on shore, while they remained at this place. On the 1st of December, having taken in water and provisions, we got, with leave from the viceroy, a pilot on board j but the wind prevented us fixMn putting to sea. A S^Kitiish packet from Buenos Ayres, bound foi- Spain, amving- the next day, tlie captain of her With gi*eat politeness ofiered to take our letters to Europe. Tho favour was accepted, and Captain Cook delivered into his hand^ a packet for the secre- tary of the Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers that had passed between him and the viceroy, leaving the duplicates with his excellency. On the 5th we weighed anchor, and towed down the bay, but were stopped at Santa Cruz, the princi- pal foitification, the order from the viceroy, to let us pass, by an unaccountable negligence,* not having been sent; so that it was not till the 7th that we got under sail. When we had passed t^e tbi't, the guard- boat left us, and our pilot was discharged. Of the town and neighbouring country we shall give the following description : Rio de Janeiro was pi"obably so called because dis- covered on the festival of Sti Januarius, frotn whence we may suppose the river Januarius took its name, and also the town, which is the capital of the Portu- guese in America. This town is situated on the west side of the river, from which it is extended about three quartei's of a mile. The ground wbereon it stands is a level plain. It is defended on the north side by a hill, that extends from the river, having a small plain^ which contains the suburbs and the king's dock. 1 FIRST VOTilOE* 17 dock. The houses in general are of stone, and two stories hi^h; its circuit is about three miles; and ap- pears to be equal in size to the larg-est country towns in England. The streets are straight and of a con- venient breadth : and the principal street is near 100 feet in width. The churches are richly ornamented, siiid there is more religious parade in this place than in any of the popish countiies in Europe. But the in- habitants may pay their devotion at tne shrine of any saint; for a small cupboard, having a glass window, and in which is one of the tutelary gods, is placed almost before every house, and a lamp is kept con- stantly burning, lest the old proverb should be verified, " Out of sight, out of mind." Before these saiiits the people pray and sin^ with such vehemtence, that in the night they were distinctly heard by our sailors on board the ship. ^' ,' ; The inhabitants of Rio de J**iieiro are exceeding [numerous, and consist of Portuguese, Negroes, and 'Indians, which last were the original natives of the country. The township of Rio is but a small part of I the Capitanea, or province ; yet it is said to contain 37,000 white people, and 629,000 blacks, many of whom are free, making tjgether 966,002, in the [proportion of 17 to 1. The military is composed of twelve regiments of . reguLir troops, six being Portuguese, and six Creo^les, and twelve regiments of provincial inilitia. The in- I habitants are servilely submissive to the regulars, and jit has been said, that if any of them should omit the compliment of taking oft' his hat when he meets an officer, he would be immediately knocked down. But the subordination of the ofiicers to the viceroy is I equally mortifying, for they are obliged to wait three I times a day to know or receive his commands : the [answer frequently is, " There is nothing new." In Rio de Janeiro the gentry keep their chaises, [which are drawn by mules ; the ladies however use a [sedan chair, boarded before and behind, with cur- |tAins^i2^ each side, which is carried by two negroes, 1' C ott 18 CAPTAIN COOK*S 0:1 a pole connected with the top of the chair, by two rods, coming from under its bottom, one on each side and reaching to the top. The women in general are more ready to grant amorous favours than those of any other civilized parts of the world. As soon as the evening began, females appeared at the windows on every side, who distinguished such of the men as best pleased their fancies by throwing down noaegays; and Dr. Solander and two other gentlemen received so many of these love-tokens, that they threw them away by hat-fulls* This place is very useful for ships that are in want of refreshment. The harbour is safe and commodious, and distinguished by a remarkable hill, in the shape of a cone, at the west point of the bay. The entrance is not wide, but is easy, from the sea breeze which prevails from noon to sun-set, for any ship to enter before the wind. Provisions, except wheaten breiut and flour, are easily procured. Beef, both fresh and jerked, may be bought at two-pence faithing a pound, but is very lean. Mutton is scarce to be produced. Hogs and poultry are dear. Garden stufi:' and fioiit are in abunuance. Rum, sugar, and molasses are all excellent, and to be had at reasonable prices. The air is seldom immoderately hot, as the sea ' breeze is generally succeeded by a land wind. The seasons are divided into dry and rainy, though their commencement of late has been irregular and uncer^ tain; but at this time the rain had just begun, and fell in heavy showers during our stay. ..M^' ■ 1 rv," •■ ^rA 7 "i. ■ ■-M^ r ■ i' , CHAP. FIRST VOYAGE. 19 CHAP. II. V/ ; ^ ' • nc d(*pftrture of the Endeavour from Rio de Janeiro, £{e)' passaf/e front the entrance of the streif/ht of Jje 31 aire. — The ttthtdnfaijits of Terra del Fiieyo described. — Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ascend a mountain in search of Plants. — An account of v^hai happened to them ii> this excursion. — The Endeavour passes ihrmigh the Streight heMaire. — An account of her passage, and a farther description of the in- habitants of Terra del Fuego. — An account of Cape Horn, and the newlg discovered ishnds. — An ac- count of their figure and appearance. — The inhabi- lants described ; with a narrative of the various in" cidents during the course, and on the Endeavour's arrival among them. . • .^/l" f ON the 8th of December, 1768, having procured necessary supplies, we took our departure from Rio de Janeiro;, and on the 9th an amazin§^ number of atoms were taken out of the sea. They were of a yellowish colour, and a few of them were more than ithe fifth part of an inch loni%w away the small sticks they held in their hands, as a taken of amity. They afterwards returned to their companions, who had remained at some distance behind them, and made signs to their guests to advance, whom they received in a friendly, though uncouth manner. In return for their civility, some ribbands andJbeads ere distributed among: them. Thus a sort of mutual wen conj&dence was established, and the rest of the English joined the party, the Indian^ conversing with them in their FIRST VOYAGj:. 21 their way, in an amicable mannjer. Captain Cook and liis tnen^is took three of them to the ship, dressed them in jackets, and giive them bread and other provisions, part of which they carried on shore with them ; but they refused to drink rum or brandy, making signs that it burned their throats, as their proper think was water. One of these people made long and loud speeches, but no part of them was intelligible to any of us. Another stole the covering of a globe, which he concealed under his gannent, tliat was made of skin. After having remained on board about two hours, they returned on shore, Mr. Baiiks accompanying them. He conducted them to their companions, who seemed no ways curious to know what their friends had seen, and the latter were as little disposed to relate, as the former were to enquire. None of these people exceeded five feet ten inches in height, but their bodies appeared large and robust, j though their limbs were small. They had broad flat faces, high cheeks, noses inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths, small, but indifferent teeth, and straight black hair, falling down over their ears and foreheads, the latter being generally besmeared with brown and red paints, and, like all the original natives of America, they were beardless, their gannents were the skins of seals and guanicoes, which wrapped round their shoulders. The men likewise wore on their heads a bunch of yarn, which fell over their foreheads, and was tied behind with the sinews or ten* dons of some animals. Many of both sexes were painted on diftJprent parts of their bodies with red, white, and browij coloui-s, and had also three or four perpendicular lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. The women had a small string tied round each ancle, and each wore a flap of skin fastened round the middle. They canied their children upon their backs, and were generally employed in domestic labour and drudgery, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by their ser^ vants, set out from the ship on the 16th, with a design of going into the country as far as they could that day, and return in the evening. Having entered a wood, th(?y ^ 22 CAPTAIN cook's they ascended a liill through a pathless wihlemcss tift the afternoon. After they had reached what they took for a plain, they \vere greatly disappointed to find it a swamp, covered with hirch, the bushes interwoven and so inflexibK* that they could not be divided ; however they stepped over them, but were up to the angles in boggy ground. Before they had got over this swamp, an accident Irappened that greatly disconcerted them. Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen whom Mr. Bonks had taken with him, fel! into a fit. It was absohitely neces- sary to kindle a fire, and such as Were most fatigued re- mained to assist him; but Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monkhouse proceeded, and attained the spot they had in view, where they found a great variety of plants that gratified their curiosity. On returning to thetr company, amidst the snow, which fell in great abundance, thev found Mr. Buchan mucJi recovered. They had previously sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Greenback to him and those that remained with him, in order to bring them to a hill which was conjectured to lie in a better tract for returning to the wood, and which was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. Dr. Solander having often passed over mountains in eold countries, was sensible, that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted ; he therefore intreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to them. His words were, ** Whoever sits down will sleep, and whoever sleeps will wake no more.* — Every one tjeemed accordingly anned with resolution ; but, on a sudden, the cold became so very intense ixs to threaten the most dreadful effects. It was now very remarkable, that the Doctor himself, who had so forcibly admonished and alarmed his party, was the first that insisted to be saf- fered to repose. In spite of the most earnest intreatics of his friemls, he lay down amiecause tl^ey have not a due feeling of their misery. We observed in this place sea-lions and dogs, and no )ther quadrupeds^ nevertheless it is probable there are )ther kinds ot animals in the country. A great variety )f plants were fonnd by the Doctor and Mr. Banks. On Sunday, January 22, having got in our wood ►nd water, we sailed out of the bay, and continued our jour^e through the streight j and in passing this, not vithstanding.the description which some voyagers ha^ e fivea of Tei:ni del Fuego, we did not find that it had. D agreeable 2(i CAPTAIN COOK S agreeable to their rcpreseiitatioits, such a forbMdin^ aspect. Nine miles westward of Cape St. Diegfo, the low point that forms the north entrance of the streight of Le M aii*e, are three hills, called the Three Brothers ; and on Terra del Fueg-o is another hill, in the form of n sn^jar loaf, which stands on the west side, not far from the sea. We had not that difficulty mentioned in the history of Lord Anson*s voyage, in finding where the streight of Le Mai re lies. The streight of Le Mairc is bounded on the west by Terri^; del Fuego, and on the east by the west end of Stateii island, and is nearly iive leagues in length, nor less in breadth. The bay of Good Success is seated about the middle of it, on the side of TeiTa del Fuego, wliich presents itself at the entrance of the streight from the northward ; and the south end of it may be distinguished by a landmark, resembling a road from the sea to the coimtry. It aftbrds good anchorage, and plenty of \voovater. January the 26th, we took our departure from Cape Horn, and the farthest southern latitude we made was 60 deg. 1 niin. and our long, was then 74 deg. 30 min. west. Cape Horn is situated in 55 deg. 53 min. south | latitude, and 68 deg. 13 min. west long. The weather! being calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small boat to shoot birds, when he killed some sheer- waters and albatrosses. At this time we found ourselves to be 12 deg. to the westward, and three and a half to the northward of the streight of Magellan, having from the east entrance of | the streight, been 33 days in sailing from pape Horn. March 1st, we found ourselves both by observation! •and the log. in lat. 38 deg. 44 min. south, and 1 10 deg. 33 min. west longitude, a concurrence very singular in! a run of 660 leagues ; and which proved, that no cur-l riint had affected the ship in her course ; and it wasl likewise concluded, that we had not come near land ofl any considerable extent; for currents are always foundj at no great distance from the shore. On the 25th, al marine, about twenty, threw himself overboard, on a(v| count of a quarrel about a pioce of sealskin, which b([ tool FIRST VOYAGE. 27 Jlook by way of a frolic ; but bt'iiij;r chai'jirod with it as U theft, he tuok tlie accusation s(» much to heart, that lin the ilusk of the eveiiing^ he threw himself into the [sea, and was clrowneJ. On the 1th of April, about ten o'clock A. M. Peter Iriscoe, servant to Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, at the distance of about three or four leagues. Captain Cook immediately gave orders to haul tor it, [when we found an island of an o\ al fonii, havinjj' a la- jgoon or lake in tlie centre, that extended overthe greater [part of it. The surrounding border of land was low land narrow in many places,especially towards the south, Iwhtre the beech consisted of a reef of rocks. Several )f the natives were discovered onshore ; they oppeared Ito be tall with heads remarkably lar^e, which probably [tiome bandage might have increased. Some of these ijeople were seen u-breastof theship, holding poles or |)ikes of twice their own height. They appeared also laked ; but when they retired, on the ship's passing the Islands, tiiey put on* a light coloured covering. Our •aptain called this place Lagoon Island. It lay in 18 Ideg. south lat. and 139 west longitude. CHAP. III. * ) -4* v-^ \Thc Endeavour arrives at Otaheitc, or Georye the Third* s Island — A n account oj'scccral incidents dur' ingher stay in this island — Excursions to the woods — Visits from several of the chiefs — The music of the natives, and their manner ofhurt/iny their dead — OtheB excursioihs and incidents, both on hoard and on shore — First interview with Oberea, the supposed queen of the island — The quadrant stolen, and the- consequences — A visit to Tootahah, an Indian chief — ^i w/estlinq match described — European seeds are sown — The Indians give our people navies, ON the tlth. of April we made Otaheite,or,asCapt. Wallis had named it, King George the Third's Island. The calms prevented our approachi ng it till the I morning", when a breeze sprung up, and several canoes D 2 were 28 CAPTAIIf COOK*SI were seen makiunr towards the ship. Few of them, how- ever, would coine near, and those who did, coidd not be |;)ersiiatlcd to come on I)oard. They had hrouefht with thcju youn^" plantains and branches of trees, which were buiib d up the ship's side, and, by their desire, were stuck in conspicuous parfsof the rig'g'inji^, as tokens of j^eace and friend hip. AVe then purchased their rom- modiiics, consisting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, apples, and fipfs, which were very acceptable to the crew. On the evening^ of the same we opentulthe north- west point of the isle, to which the Dolpliin's people had ^iven the name of York Island. We lay oft* and on all night, and in the morning" of the Uithwe enter- ed Foil; Koyal Harbour, in the island of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. Many of the natives came oft' immediately in their canoes, and brought with them bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and some hops, whicli they bartered for beads and other trinkets with the ship's company. Among those who came on board the Endeavour, was an elderly man, named Owliaw, known to Mr. Gore, and others who visited this island with Capt. Wal- lis. Owhaw being considered by our gentlemen as a very useful man, they studied to please him, and to gra- tify all his wishes. As our continuance in George's island w as not likely to be very short, certain rules were drawn lip to be observed by every ])erson on board, for the better establiF^hina" a recfular tratle with the natives. The sub:>tance of these j-ules were, " That. in order to prevent quarrelr; and confusion, exery one of the ship's crew should endeavour to treat the inhabitv^rtts of Otaheite with humanity, and by all iair nieans to cultivate a friendship with them. That no uiiicer, seaman,. or other person, belonging to the sbli), except such only who were appointed to barter with the natives, shoiiW trade, or offer to trade for any kind of provision, fruity, or other produce of the island, without having cxpv j]56 leave so to do. That no person slioulJI^j^bezzlo, tralie, or ofi'er to trade with any part Dithe siup'a stores^ and that no sort of iron, or any flRST VOYAOB. 29 thinff made of iron, nor any sort of cloth, or other use- ful nrticlein the ship, HhoiiW he given in exchange for I .j„y tiling but provision." These necessary rules were iHiirned by Capt. Cook, and, being his oilers, to the noH-ohsenance of them were annexed certain pennhios, liesides the punishment according to the usual custoiu of the navy. When the bark was properly secured, Captain Cook , Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went on shore, with a . party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. They were received by some of the natives with awe and reverence, who exciMinged the tokens of peace, and • offered to conduct them to a spot of ground, which would be more convenient for them to occupy, than where they had landed. On their way, the English made the Indians some presents, which the latter very IthankfuUy received. They now took a circuit of about Ifour miles through groves of bread fruit and cocoa-trees. [Intermingled with these were the dwellings of the na- ftives, which consisted of huts without walls. In the course of their journey they found but few fowls or hogs, and understood, that none of their conductors, nor any of the people they had hitherto seen, were persons of rank m the island. Those of our crew who [had been before at Otaheite, were likewise of opinion, [that the queen*s residence had been removed, as no , Itrace of it was now to be discovered. Next day, in the morning, before they could leave [the ship, several canoes came about her filled with peo- ple, whose dress denoted them to be of the superior class. Two of these came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend: one of them chose Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremonials consisted of taking off their clothes in great part, and putting them I upon their adopted firiends. This compliment was Ireturned by our gentlemen presenting them with some trinkets. They then made signs for their new friends t& [go with them to the place of their abode ; and the latter being desirous of being acquainted with the people, and [finding out a moi'e convenient harbour, accepted thq invitation, 30 CAPTAIN COOK S invitation, and went with them, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and others. We all landed in two boats at the distance of three miles, amon^ a great number of tlie natives, who conducted us to a large habitation, where we were introduced to a middle-aged man, named To:»tahah. When we were seated, he presented to Mr. Banks a cock, a hen, and a piece of perfumed cloth, which compliment was »*e- turned by a preser»t from Mr. Banks. We were then conducted to several other large dweUings, wherein we walked r^^bout with great freedom. The ladies, so far from shunning, invited, and even pressed us to be seated, by frequently pointing to the mat upon the ground. Walking afterwards along the shore, we met, ac- companied by a great number of natives, another chief, named Tubourai Tamaide, with whom we settled a treaty of peace, in ths manner before described. This '^hief gave us to understand, that he had provisions at our service, if we chose to eat, which bo produced, and we dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains, andtish. During this visit, Tomio, the chiefs wife, placed her- self upon the same mat with Mr. Banks, close by him ; but as she was not } oung, nor appeared ever to have possessed many charms, this gentleman paid little atten- tion to her ; and Tomio received an additional morti- fication, when Mr. Banks beckoned to a pretty girl, who f;ame and placed herself by him. Theprincesi; was somewhat chagrined at this preference being given to her rival. This whimsical scene was interrupted by an event of a more serious nature : Dr. Solander Iwivinj^ missed his opera-glass, complaint was made to the chief, which interrupted the convivial pariy. The complaint Was enforced by Mr. Banks starting up and striking tlie but-end of his musket against the ground, which struck the Indians with such a panic, that all of them ran pre jipitately out of the house, exceptthe chief, and a few others of ths superior class. That no disadvan^ tsgeous notions might be entertained ofthem on account of this circumstance, the chief observed, with an ?*ir of (j^eat probity, that the place which the Doctor had mentioned FIRST VOYAGE. 31 mentioned on this occasion, was not within his district, but he would send to the chief of it, and endeavour to recover it ; adding;, that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compensation, by giving him as much new cloth as should be thought equal to the value. The case however was brought in a little time, and the glass itself soon after. After this adventure was amicably terminated, we Returned to the ship about six in the evening. On Saturday the 15th, in the morning, several of the chiefs came on board, bringinf^ with them hogs, and other refreshments, in exchange for which they received linen, beads, and other trinkets ; but some of them took the liberty of stealing the lightning cha:n. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks, and some of the other gentlemen, went on shore, to fix on a proper spot to erect a fort for their defence, during their stay on the island, and the ground was accordingly marked out for that purpose : a great number of the nxtiveti looking on all the while, and behaving in the most peaceable and friendly manner. Mr. Banks and his friends having seen few hogs or poultry in their walks, they suspected that they had been driven up the country ; for which reason they de- termined to penetrate into the woods, the tent being guarded by ? petty officer and a party pf marines. On this excursion several of the natives accompanied the English. While the party were on their mai'ch, they we;e alarmed by the discharge of two piecea fired by the guard of the tent. Owhaw having now called to- gether the captain^s party, dispersed all the Indians, except three, who, in token of their fidelity, broke branches of trees, according to their custom, and whom it was thought proper to detain. When they re- turned to the teiTt, they found that au Indian having snatched away one of the centinels* muskets, a young midshipman, who commanded the party, was so im- prudent as to give the marines orders to fii-e, which were^ obeyed, and Liany of the natives were wounded ; but Uihi did not si^tisfy them, as the offender had ao fallen^ ss CAPTAIN COOK S they therefore pursued him, and reveajj^ed the theft hy his death. This action, which was equally inconsistent with poUcy and humanity, could not but be very dis- pleasing to Mr. Banks ; but as what had passed could not be recalled, nothing remained butito endeavour to accommoc*ate matters with the Indians. Accordingly he crossed the river, where he met an old man through whose mediation several of the natives were prevailed on to come over to them, and to give the usual tokens of friendship. ^ Mr. Banks, on the .I7th» hauA the misfortune to lose Mr. Buchau. The same day they received a visit from Tubburai Tamaide, aiid Tootahah. Tliey brought with them some plantain branches, and till these were received, they would not venture on board. They foaitered some bread fruit and a hog, which w^ts ready dressed, for nails, with the EngHsh. Tubourai Tamaide visited Mr. B?nkf ^^. his tent on Wednesday the 19th, and brought v d ..a his wife wad family. He afterwards asked that gentleman to accompany him to the woods. On their arrival at a place where he sometimes resided, he presented his guests with two garments, one of which was of red cloth, and the other was made of fine matting ; ha^ng thus clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ship, and staid to dimier with k\s wife and son. On the 22d we were entertained by somb of thft mii- fiicians of the couiiitry, whoperfprmedon an instniinent 6onfte>what resemblinf;' a German flute, but the perfoi t tier blew through his nostiii instead of his mouth, an'] uH^^^ii accompanied this instrument, singing" only one ^ i'. On the 24th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander mad« ; r excursion into the country, and found it level and fertile along the shoi'e, for about two miles to the eastward; after which the hills iieaohed to the water's edge; and farther on, they ram out into the sea. Having passed these hills, which continued about three miles, we came to an extensive plain, abounding with good ha^ ^talsous, and the people seemed to enjoy a consideitable ^^ hare of property. Tikis place was rendered stjyU moreagied&ble by FiiftsT viHA&k. dd ly a \Vide river issumg.from a valley, an J whicli v^a- ^t^ it. We crossed tl^is river, wheii perceiving the ictiiilry ,to be barren, Tjre resolved to return. On tlie liJSth in the eyenin^, several of the gentle- jen's knives 'w^eremissiiig'; Mr. Banks, who had lost Hs aiiiong; t^e rest,^ accdsed Tfiibonrai; Taihaide of ^ving* taSen it', which, as jie was innocent, occasi« bed hiifti a g;reat deial of u^imerited anxiety. He niade igas» while the tfcr*rs Started from his eyes, that if he^ "id ever been g?idty of such a theft as was imputed liim, lie would suffer his, throat to be cut. But' >.oi^gh he; was innocent, it was plaih> from many in- taitqes^ that the natives of this island l^'ere very much iddjcteMTtbtnieving; though Mr, Banks's sen^ant had riisiaid ttie jkntfe in question, yet the rest were pro- duced in a rag" by one of the natives. ' When th)e giins, on the 26th, which weresix swivels, id been mounted on the fort, the Indians seemed be in great trouble, a-jd several of the fishernieil amoved, fearinki notwithstanding all the marks of l^endship which had been shown tb them by our people, tney should, in a few days, be fired at from Be fort; yet' the next day, beih^ the.27th^ Tubourai rdtiialchs came with three womefi and a friend of his, i^ho was a remarkable glutton, and after dinner btuined to his own house in the wood. In a short [me after he came back to complain to Mr. Batiks ■*' a butcher, who had threatened io ciit his wife's ■ it, beit^slnse she would nt)t bartisi a stone hatchet )r a nail.*' It appearing ^'Ifiai-Iy that the. offender had ^ ifringed ^ne of the )Hiifes ^njoin^d by th^ cajitain for t'adih^'wiih'the' natives, he was ftog^d on board in 'hr' sight: '■'*■] ■■"' ' . ' ,-'- ■ Jai,the 28th, T^rapo, one of Tiibbttihdi Tamaide's^ ^ihttie atrMdants^ cam^ down to the fort in the rctotest affliction, the tears gushing from her eyes, fr. Banks seeing her fhfi 'of ^mentation and sorrow, iSi^ed upon knoWirig the cause, but instejid of an- gering, ^e struck herself ijevenil tiiiies With a shark's ' yoth u^Q her head, till ah efitisiou of blood foil I E bvfed, m m H CAPTAI?f, cook's lowed, while her distress , was disregarded by several other Indians, who continued lai,ig^lung and talking with tlie utmost unconcern. After this she gathered up some pieces .of cloth, which she had thrown down to catch thehlood, and threw them into the sea, as if ahe wished to prevent the least trace or mark of her absurd, behaviours She. then bathed in the river, and, with remarkable cbearfulne^s, returned to the tent, as if nplhing; extrao^dinai^y had happeiied. ; Mr. Moliiiejux, master of the Endeavour, seeing a woman who^e i;i^me wa^ Oberea, he declared she was tlie same person whom, he judged to be the mieen of the island when, he was there with Captain Wallis. The eyes of every one were now fix^d on her, of whom so much had been said by the crew of the Dolphin. ' With regard to her person, she was tall and rather "irge made; she was about forty years of age, her Kin white, ai;kd her eyes had great expression in theuK she had b^ien handsome, but her beauty was now upon the; declin^. Many presents were made her, particularly a child's doll, which she viewed veiy attentively. , ,Captain*Copk accompanied heron shore, anil when we landed, she presented him with a hog, and some, plantains, in return for his presents, which were carried, to the fprt in procession, Oberea and the qaptain bringing up the rear. In their way they met Tootahah,, who no sooner saw the doll, than he dis- covered strqng symptoms of jealousy, nor could any method bp^ ipund of conciliating his frie^id^hip, but that of cpni^i»ii€nting him -with a l^aby also. A doll | was now prefeyable to a hgt^Ji^t, but.,q.j yj^jy shov^ time taught tti^ Indians wte superior >.a|fip ^ojf imn, which, on account of its useTidness, pi^vailed over q very other consideration. ili-*' On the 29th| near noon, Miy Bank/ppJd a visit fOi Oberea, but was informed that she was asleep UQ{)e|!. the avyning of h^r canoe > nod, going to c^ll fier \\\\ \vas aui'}i|rised. at.^nding her in bed with a young feU low, a jUiscpvery/syhich caused him to retire rather clisicpnqerjiedj but he socjn jimderstood that a.com- :. • :..i ' '^merte' PIBST VOYAGE, i fir 3iS Mievce of this sort was by no means coukideirdd as scan- lalous, the ladies frequently courting the men to amo- roUB dalliance, of which they made no seci*et; and as yoiniff Obadee, found in bed with the queen, ha i^as'Welf known by every one to be the object of her Jiscitious hours. The queen sooit got u}>, and dressed iei-self to wait upon Mr. Banks, and, after having*, as i token of her particular regard, put on him a suit of ine cloth, they proceeded together to the tents. In ^he evening Mr. Banks visited Tubourai Tumaide. He was ast()mshed to find this chief and his family all [h tears, and not beiiig able to discover the cause, he loon took leave of them. Upon his return ^ the officers [old him, that Owhaw bad ' foi'etold, that the guns woM be fired within four days, and as this was the i\e of the third day, they were alarmed at the situation ihey judged themselves to be in. As we were appre* Sensive of ill consequences from this prepossession, ^e centinels were doubled at the fort, anid we thought It necessary to keep under arms. ^yii ^rjivo .o . kIj I On; the 30th, Tomio came in great haste to our lent, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, tpld him that Tubourai Tamaide was dying, owing to somewhat pat had been given him by ^oiir people, andintreated lim instantly to go to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks i^ent and fouttd the Indian very sick. He had been i^omiting, and had throwii up a leaf whi<^ they said iont&ined some of the poison. Mr. Banks having examined the leaf, found it was. nothing buitobacco^ ^hich the Indian had begged of some of the ship's bompany. The matter, however, appeared in a very serious Ught to Tubourai Tamaide, who really concluded from me violent sickness he suffered^ that he had swallowed Wme deadly druff, the terror of which, no doubt, bontributed to make him yet more sick. While Mr» Banks was examinmg the leaf, he looked up to him, IS if Jie had been just on the point of death. But Then the nature of the dreadful poison was found out, only ordered him to driak of cocoa-nut mUk, which soon 36 cAjPTAm cook's 50on restored him to health, ancl h^ yf9S^ f^ .oh^^Hql as before the accident liappqped* •'* '*!' - '^ ' On tlie l»t of May, Captain Cook^bayiiiff producied an iron adxe, M^hich was m^e in iitt)itfiitjo?i iQf the stotie ones used by the natives, shewed it to ^^Ootahah, is a curiosity. The latter snatched it up, tmi insiijsted on having it; and though fie was oifferjed the (ihoice iof aiiy of the articles in the chests which Were opened before him, yet he would not accept of any thipg in its stead.' May 2d, we took the astronomical quiulrant and Bcme of the instruments on khore that altdrnoon; and, to our great surprise, when we wanted to ulake us^ of the quadrant, th^ next db.y, it was not tQ be Cduhd; a matter which was looktid upon ai$ the more extraor- dinary, as ^ Centinel' had been placed the WhjHe Slight within a few yards of the (»lace wiiere it M^as deposit- ed. A strict seianch w^s made in and ^boi^ tbelbrt, and a reward oifered in ordei^ to obtain it again, ilut this proving fruitless,. Mn !3anks and som^ other gen- tlemen sfet out for the woods, wher^ they th^Miglit they migift get some tidings of what was stolisn. Id their way they miet witb ^bhourai Tamaide and 90m of the natives. This ctnef was ^'ade to understaitid 1)^ i signs, that they had lost the quadrant, tmd thftt a) some of their countrymen must have taken it, they insisted upon being shewn the place where it was con- cealed. Having proceeded a few milens tos^th^r, after some enquiry, Tubouirai Tamaid^ w^s infimnedi who the thief was, and it wais Ibuhd that he ^as theaj «t a place about four miles distant. As they bad no! iire<-arms but a brace of pistols, not caring to trust | themselves so far from the iort, a message was di$-; patched to Captain Cook, requesting him to send oiiti fi pally to support them# The Captain accordingly i set out with a party properly armed^ after having Ui) | fu) embargo upon all the canoes ini the bay. In tlie mean time. Mi*. Banks and Mil Qreen.prot peedcd on their way, and at the place which had bebl Ki«utiojQd one of the canoes attempted to quit the )ay» The lieutenant who commanded on boaird th^ hip, hsmng i^ in ctisiYge not to sufier any canpe ta jepart, sent a boat to detain her, but sh^ op spp^ep kpproached, than the Indians jumped into the sea. Tootahah being of the number, was taken up, and ,5nt by the lieutenant to the officer that commanded It the fortj who concluded he should do riffht to de- ainhim prisoner, while the poor chief thought ot lothing but being put to death, till Captain Cook paused him to be returned, to the great joy of )iis pountrymen. On the ^, provisions were extremely 30s^r as iC markets continued to be ill supplied on|^l^ ac- junt already mentioned; and it ^a^ not lyith^ut sme difficulty that Mr. Banks got a few baskets of ^read'fiiut. Hawever> some time afterwards, haw ig produced some nails to barter for provision^, w^ ot twenty cocoj|.-nu1^ and some bref^-^i'uiti ^r ojxp ii the smallest size, so that w^ ^qq|^ kad plenty o^ lese articles, though no hog^. V^ 0^ ^e 10th, in the forenoon, Oh^Yeo. p^i^ u^. :4 kit, accompanied by pb^^^e, presenting us ^i^tfi ig and some breadrmut. T^ wsMs th^ &rst yi^it we^ , id received froin tlii^ lady, ^ince the loss of our. iuadrant^ and the confiue^eni o|^ Tootahah^. By this^ ne our forge wa$ se| iip, ^1^1^ 8^9}rded( v^ oi^y^sxjihr ject 9 36 »:. CAPTAIN^ COOK S jcct of aflmiration to the Indians, and to Captain Cook and additional opportnnity of conferring' obligrations oh them, hy pcrmittiiig' tlie smith to convert the old iron, which they wer<^ supposed to have procured from 4he Dolphin, into different kinds of tools. Oberea produced ay' much iron as would have made for, her Uliother axe; this she requested to have done; but the lady could not be gratified in this particular, iipon which she brouj^ht a broken axe, aesiring" it might be mended. The axe was mended, and to all appearance she was content. On the 11th we sowed, in ground properly pre- pared, seeds of meloiis, and other plants, but none of them came up except mustard. Mr. Banks thought the seeds wei'e spoiled by a total exclusion of fresh air, they having* all been put into small bottles, and sealed up with rosin. 'XfHl'i. CHAP. IV. .ii»Jia»i i; An extraordinary visit — Divine service attended hy • the natives of QtaheitC'—An uncommon siykt — Tie- ' ^urai Tamaide found guilty of theft — A relation ^ of what happened at the fort, when observing the Transit of. Venus — A description ofanIndia:nfime' ^ ral — Preparations' made for leaving the island — ' An accdunt of their departurcy and the behaviour , dfth^ natives on this occasion* M. iV. , ? > '•■ GN^ the 12th of this nionth (May) api tihcorttmbH ceremony was performed by soitte of the nJitives. As 'Mr., Bai)ks was sitting in his boat, trading ^vith tirem'iis usual, some ladies, who were strangers, ad- vanced .in procession towards him. . The r^s^' of the fn^ians on each side gave way, and formed Jt laiiiefor ft^ yisiitors to pass, who coming up to Mr. Banks, presented him whJi.sbme paiTot's feather^, and'vari- (iusi kifids of iplaiits* Tupia, who stood by Mr. Banks, acted as the master of the ceremonies, and f^ceiving the btanchesf which wtere^ brought at six different timest FIRST VOYAGK. 3d times, laid down in the boat. AftcT this >omc larg* [bundles of cloth were brought, consisting* of uin^ pieces, divided into three parcels, oni^ of the women, called* Oorattooa, who appeared to be the principal, stepping upon one of them, pulled up her clothes a& [high as her waist, and then, with an air of vinaffected iBimplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony Lhe repeated, with similar circumstances, on the other [two parcels of cloth ; and the whole being then pre- Isented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and sahitcd hin^; in return for which extraordinary favours, he madei them such pre'sents as he thought would best please, ihem. ,. . . '> r' ^»>« On Sunday the 14th, divine service was performed at the fort. Tubourai Tamaide and his wife wei^e. I present, but though they behaved with much decency, [they made no enquiries with respect to the ceremonies.: [The day thus began with acts of devotion, but con- cluded with those of lewdness exhibited among tJh^ latives by way of entertainment. .^ On Monday the 15th, Tubourai Tamaide was de- . Itected in having committed a theft. Mr. Banks had. [a good opinion of this chief, but, when his honesty was put to the test, a basket of nails^ left in the corner •of the tent, proved irresistible. He confessed the fact lof having stolen four nails, but when restitution was. [demanded, Tamaide said the nails were at Eparre.j [High words passed on the ocdasioii, and in the end,, the, Indian produced one pf thp nails, and was to bti, forgiven on restoring the rest; but bis virtue was not, jequal to tlie task, and he withdraw hiinself, as uson)^; hvlien he had committed any offence. ,j,j|/ .':h\\. y On the 25th, Mr. Banks seeing Tubourai Tamaide, . [rftid his wife Tomio at the tent for , the first time,sinc6. rthc fdiTile^* had been detected in stealing the nails, li^; [endeavourej^ to persuade him to restore thein, butii^;' rain. , As pur gentlemen treated him >vith a reseiTfef uid cbolncss, which he eouklnot but perceive, his. [stay was short, and he departed in a v^ry ^brupti Imanner ; uw ' could our surgeon ^Wnext inorfting^ ' ' " persuade m CAPtAIN COOK S > •* peiSila'de him to effect a reconciliatidn by britigirig^ down the hails. At this time the preparations Were made f^or view- ih^ the transit of Venus, aiid two parties We're sent 6iit to niake observations from different dpois, that in ca^ of failing in one place they might succeed itia'ho- ther. They employed themselves for some tittie in ]»reparihg their instruments, and instructing those geritl&men who were to go out, in the use of them ; atid oh Thursday, the 1st of June, they sent tb^ long htM with Mr. Goi-e, Mr. Monkhoiise (the two bbsen - 6w) and Mr. Sporing, with prcnier instrumentisi, to Eniayo. Others were sept to find out a spot that nniight answer tlie purpose, ait a convenient distance frdm their principal station 1 • 'the party that went towards Ema3rb, after rowing the grieater part of the night, having hailed t canoe, Werie informed of a place, by the Indians on board, wiich was judged proper for their observatory, wlierc they accordingly fixed their t,entsl It was a rock that rose out of the Waiter about 140 yards from the shore. -J , > Saturday the 3d (the day of the tr^^iisit) Mr. Banks, tt^ soon as it was light, leit tHeiti, ih oi'dei* to go and ^et firdsh prdvisions on "^ island, l^liis g^nitlehdah ndd tlie satisfaction to se^ the $tiii ' ris0 withiotft a dOud.' Th^ king, whos^ nanie was l^ei'rtirb, catiie to piiy htha a visit, as he wa^ trading with th6 iiaiivesp sChd* brought with him Nuht^d' his sist^. As it was! (^tofhiary for the people ih these^ P^!^^ ^f^^^^ seated at their confereni^es, Mr. Batik's s^rfead his turban of India cloth> which he woi'e as a hat^ upon/lfi^ grdhiidr oft Which thiey ' all sat down. Then a mg' ana a dog, sdlttie cocoa^nMs, smd bread-fruit; were broii^ht^ be- itig the king's present, and Ifr. Bkhks seht for an adze, af imrt, and soinie beads^ whibh were' ^re^ted to hk niajeSty^ whd received ttteihd with a^^arent sa- tisfactioti. Aftetwards the kin^, his siiiit^r, aiad three bb^tttrfhr: feinales/ their attefhddhi^, r^itifhedt with Mr. B^ks to fhei ob$epratory, Wh6re he dieWd them' • /• ■ . ^ . • the ■;/ • FIRSl* VOYAGS. 41 1 32 lOj 1= •» the transit of Venus, when the planet tras upon the H\hf und acquainted them» that to view in that situation was the cause of his undertaking a voyag-e to those I remoter parts. According to this gentleman's account, the produce of this island is nearly the same with that of Otaheite; the people also resembled those of Ithat island; he had seen many of them upon it who [were acquainted with the nature of trading article?. The parties that were sent out to make their obser- Jvations on the transit, had good success in their under- I taking; though they differed rather more than might have been expected in their account of the contact. Mr. Gn en*jj account was as follows : The first eMternal contact - - 9 25 4- The first interoal contact, or total emersion, ------ 9 44 The >t:conU inltrnal contact, or be- ginning of the imersion, - - 3 The 8»*cond external contact, or total imersion, . - - - - 3 titudeol'the observatory 17 deg. 20 aiin, \9 sec. south ;—IongN tude, 149 deg. 32 niin. 30 sec. west from Greenwich. While the gentlemen and officers were busied in Iviewing the transit, some of the ship's company bav- ling broke into the store-room, took the liberty of steal* [ing a quantity of spike-nails. After a strict search, the thief was found out; he had, however, but few of the nails in his possession; but he wsls ordered to re* ;eive two dozen of la«4ie8> by way of example. On the 4th, an old female of some distinction dyings ive us an opportunity of observing the ceremonies id by these islanders in disposing of the dead )odies of their people. In the front of the Muare )ace, a sort of stile was placed' where the relations of le deceased stood to g^ve token of their grief. % here rere under the awning some pieces of cloth, whereon reire the tears and blood of the mourners, who used to wound themselves with a sharks*s tooth upon these >ccasion8. Four temporary houses were erected at a lall distance, in one, of which remained some of the [rolations of the deceased) the chio{ iiioumer resided 1 . F i» ■p 43 CAPTAIN COOKTS in another; and was dressed' in a particular maimef, ill order to perform a certain ceremony, W" th($ corpse i;-* rotten, the bones are buried near t..^ spot. Concerning* the ceroinony we are about to speak of, the following iailhe account we haye of it, which may not be unehtertaining^ to the reader. It was performed on the lOthy and Mr. Banks was so deajrous of beipg; present, that he agreed to take a part in it, when he was informed that he could not bfs.a spectat^irjiui 9»y other condition. » ', I >; i. -^ . j- , '. , - He went accordingly in the evening, to the place, where the body was to be deposited, where he iwas met by the relations of the deceased, ond was after- wards joined by several other, persons. Tubourai Tamaide was the principal mourner, whose dress was whimsical, thoiiyi not altoffcthci* ungraceful. Mr. Banks was oblij^ed to quit nis European dress, and had no other covering than a small piece of cloth that was tied, roiind his middle ; liis body was blacked over with charcoal and water, as were the bodies of seve^ ral others^ and among them some females, who were no naore covered than himself. The procession then bi^an, and the chief mourner att<^red some words tvhich were judged to be a prj \ when he w^ proached the body, and he repei . these words as he came up to his own house. They afterwards -went 6n, by permission, towards the fort. It i» usual for the rest of the Indians to ilhun these processions as niiuch as possible; they accoirdingly ran into the Woods in great haste as soon as they came in view» From the fort the mourners proceeded along^ tiis tihore, crossed the river, then entered the woods, pas* srng several houses, which became immediately uniur habited, and during the rest of the procession, which continued for half an hour, not an Indian was visible. -Mr. Banks tilled an ofHce that they called Nineveh, and there were two others of the same character; When none of the other natives were to be seen^ they Tipproached the chief mourner, saying, Imatara; then those.who had -assisted at the ceremony bathed in im river, \„ FIRST voyage: 43 mvCT, and rcsameil their fonner dress. Such was this luncommon ceremonv, in which Mr. Banks |>erformed [a nrincipal part, antf received applause from Tubourai T'amaide, the chief mourner. What can liave intro- luccd amon*^ these Indians so strange a custom as that >f e^^posinff their dead above ground, till the flesh is consumed by putrefaction, and then burying their Jones, it is, perhaps, impossible to guess; nor is it less difficult to determine, why the repositories of their dtad should be also places of worship. On the 12th, the Indians having lost some of their >oWs and arrows, and strings of plaited Imir, a com- ilairit was made to the Captain. The affair was in- luired into, and the fact being well attested, the of*- Ifenders received each two dozen of lashes. On the 14th, in the night, an iron coal^rake for ^he oven was stole ; and many other things having at (ifferent times been conveyed away, Captain Cook idged it of some consequence to put an end, if pos- ible, to such practices, by making it tlieir common iterest to prevent it. He had already given strict Orders, that the centinels should not fire upon the [ndians, even if they were detected in the fact; but lany repeated depredations determined him to make iprisals. ' ^ A few days after, twenty-seven of their double moes with sails arrived, coni:aining cargoes of fish ; lese the captain seized, and then gave notice, that (nless the rake, aiid all the other things that had been tolen, were returned, th6 vessels should be burnt: 'he menaces produced no other effect than the resti- ^ition of the rake, all the other things remamiiig in leir possession. Tiie captain^ however, thought fit give up the cargoes, as tlie innocent natives were great distress for wa-it of them, and in order to revent the confusion arising from disputes concern- igthe property cf the different lots of goods which i^y had on board. On the 10th, iti the evening, while the canoes ^ete still detained, Ober^a and several of her attend- '^ ' a.its OAFI'BJK COOK'S ants paid us a visit. She canie from TootabWiV pax lace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other presents, but not a fnagl/e artU cle of the things that had been stolen; th^se iho said had been taken away by her favourite Obado^ ^kem she had beaten and dismissed. She sei^ipedi how^y^r, conscious that her story did not deserve cr«idii(, aA4 appeared at first much terriiied; though she. sur- mounted ber fears with great fortitudes, and was de- sirous of sleeping with her attendants in Mr. Banks'^ tents ; but this being recused, she was obligc4 ta ^pass the night in her canoe. The next morning Q]j«re« returned, putting herself wholly in our power, when We accepted of her presents, which she donbtlen thought, and justly too, the most effectual Q)€^aBS to bring about a reconciliation. On Jime the 26th, Captain Cook setting out 19 thf pinnace with Mr. Banks, sailed to the eastward* with a design of circumnavigating the island. They went { pn shore in the forenoon, in' a district in the govern- ment of Ahio, a young chief, who ^t their tents ha4 ! frequently been their visitant. Afterwards they pro. i ceeded to the harbour where M. Bougainville*^ vessel { lay, and the spot where he pitched his tent. Coming to a large bay, when the English gentlet I men mentioned their design of going to the other side, their {lidian guide said he would not accompany themJ and also endeavoured to dissuade the Captain s^id bit people from goings observing, *' That the country was inhabited by people who were not subject to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.'' Not< ivithsianding, they resolved to put their designs into execution, loading their pistols with ball; so at last he ventured to go with them. Having rowed til? it was dark, they reached a narrow isthmus, which se- vered the island in two p&rts, and these formed distinct governments. However, as thoy. had not yet got into le hostile part of the country, it was thought properl to go on Hhofe to spend the' night, where Ooratova, tlj^iady who had pqid h^r compiiments iu «o extr^ ordinary! FIRST VOYASK. >tdtiiary ft manner at the fort, provided thein with $ ipper, tiad they proceeded for the other {^oveniment the morning. They afterwards landed in the diatriet of a <;hief died M»raitata. TheiKj3 people ^ave the Captain a jry g«od reception, sold them a hog- for a hatchet, liid rornish^d them with provvHimis. Though tlie country was apparently fertile, very little bread-fruit 79S i9 be foiuifl here, a nut called ahee tuniishing^ le principal 8iil)£i|istenee of the rnhabitiints. Bei^ig totigued with their jowraey, they went on )ard their boat, and landed in the evening on au [island which wan called Otooareite, to seek for re- freshment. . Mr. Banks going into the woods for this mrpose, when it was dark, could discover only one louiie, wherein he found some of the nuts l>ef<»re men- tioned and a little bitea4 fvuit. There was a good larbourin the southern part of this island, nndthesur- i*ounding country appeared to be extremely fruitful. When they left the place, the chief piloted them myet tiie shoalfi. In the evening tliey opened the bay on the north-rwest side of the island, which answered j-to that on the south east in such a manner as to inter- sect it at the isthmus. Several canoes came oif here, and some beautiful women, giving tokens that they f should be glad to see them ashore, they readily ac- [Cepted the invitation. They met with a very friendly reception from the chief, whose name was VViv^rou, who gave dii'ections to some of his people to assist them in dressing theiv victuals,; which were now very plen- tiful, and they supped at Wiverou's house, in com- pany with Mathiabo. Part of the house was allotted tor them to sleep in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo having borrowed a clcak of Mr. Banks, under the notion of using it as a coverlet when he lay down, made off with it, without being per- ceived either by that gentleman or his companions. However, news of the robbery being presently brought them by pne of the natives, they set out in pursuit of Mathiaho, but h;^!, pvecccdcu only a very littft 46 CAPTAIN COOK'S little way before they were met foyu person bringing Jback the cloak, which the chief had given np rather through fear than from any principle of honesty. On their 'retoi'n, they found the house quite deserted; and about four in the morningr the centinel^ave'the alai*m that the boat was missing. Cciptain' Cook and Mr. Banks were greatly astonished hi this acibount, and ran to the v ater side; but though it wa^ a; clear 4jtar-light morning, no boat was to be seen. vTheir situation was now extremely -di8agreeal;)ie.i".Tht party consisted of nomore than four> having*^ with them only one musket and t Wo; > pocket pistols, with- out a spare ball or a charge of-powder; - w V After having remained some time in a state of anxiety arising from these' circumiitances^ of which they feared the Indians might take advantage, the boat, which had been driven">ai^ay by the tide, re- turned; and Mr. Banks 'and his companions had no sooner breakfasted th^ they departed. This place is situated on the north side of Tiarrabon, the south* east peninsula of the island, about five miles east from the isthnus, with an harbom* equal to any in those parts. It was fertile and populous, and the inhabit- xants every where behaved with great civility. On Friday the 30th, they arrived at Otahorou, where they found their old acquaintance Tootahah, who received them with great civility, and provided them a good supper, and convenient lodging; and though they had be^n so shamefally plundered the last time they slept with this chief, they spent the night with tha greatest security, none of their clothes nor anv other article b6ing missing the%ext morning. 'They returned to the fort at Port^Royal harbour on the 1st of July, having discovered the island, includ- ing both peninsulas, to be about 100 miles in cir- cumference. ^\, ,f.' \: ,^; On the 3d, Mr. Banks made ah excursion, in or- der to tmce the river up the valley to its source, and to remark how far the' country was inhabited along the banks of it. He took Indian guides with him, - . aiUl ^d,a^i|)&^vinff ^^n.l^piis^ for about 'sixiiiil^s, they ^eto one wSiq^ wa§ ^jaid to be the last that. cpul4 >e met mth> The inast^i*'pves^uted them witli cocoa- \uis't and, other fruits, and ^hey proceeded on their JKkik, after ashiort stay, .jthey often paj^^d thro»^gh [auHs formed hy rociky fra^inents in the course of li^ir journey,. ip whic?), i^ t^ey ^ere to]d, benighted j-avell^rsspmetinies topk shejte^,; ,iPursWg the couro lif , the. liver ,Hahout ^f ^nile^ ?arjlie>;,. j^h^y fpund it tolled o^ both ^i4^ /)i)y' rocks [almost .. li>€i feet ii^ ^ight^smd, nes^fiji ig^W9i^ii^^v;^i^ \viiy, ^^yveyer* Ai^^t he, iraced ri^p ihesepi'^^cipices, along whicl) leir Indian guides would have conducted theni|, buj^ >tjy 4eclined the^ offer, > as there did not appear to be ly jthifig at the summit which pould repay thegafor 10. toil and. dangers of ascending it . . . i li^r. Banks sought in vain for mii;^rals among the )cks, .which wpr^e pakjed almpst on all sidesi but noi nneral substances werc^ found. -.The stones every ^here '^j^hibited signs of having been burnt, whicli ra;5 t^he ^as^.pf ail ^hestpp^s tjja^ffWere iound while; le staid at Otaheite, and both there and in ;he neigh-* om'ing islands the tl'a;Cfs,;(>f fire were evident in tl)f| [lay upon the hills. ^,| Oft the 4th, a grcjat quantity of the seeds, of water- lelons, pranges, lin^es, ard other plants, brought rom Rio de Janeiro, W' planted on each side of th^ )rt, by Mr. Banksi, who a Iso plentifully supplied the ndians/wlth them, aiid plaiitcd viiany of them lu the ^oods. By this time they began to think of making prepa- itions to depart; but Omao and Oberea, and iheir m and daughtdi*, visited them before thev were ready ) sail. The son of Waheatua, chief of the south-east peninsula, was also here at the same time; u' d they 7ere favoured with the company of the 1 * lan who ad been so dexterous as to steal the quadrant, as (efore related. The carpenters being oirdered to tako^ |own the gates and pallisadoes of the fort, to be con^ rerted into fire wood, one of the natives stole th9 stap\^ « CA*TAtW «Mk's i Staple and hook of the jjate i he was f(tirs!te Mr. Hicks waS; di^' Itched in the long boat* with a strong body of men,, rescue the prisoners -, at the same: time the captain- Id TooCahab, that it was< incumbent on him to assi;^ lem with|some of his people, and to give orders inu is name, that the men shouldlbe set at libertys} iot sat'ihe would be expected to answer for the event., [ootWiah immediately^ complied, and this party r^f^ ised the men without opposition. On the nth, about seven in the morning, they ncr imed, but without the arms,; which had been t^^eiK >m them when they were mad^risoners ; these^ iwever, being restored soon after,We chiefs onboard; !re allowed to return, and those^lwho had been den lined on shore,, were also set at liberty. On exa^ lining.the deserters, it appeared that the Indians had >ld the truth, they having chosen two girls, witl\ rhom they would have remained in the island: j^t lis time, the power of Oberea was not so great as j6 ras when the Dolphin first discovered the island* [upia, whose name has often been mentioned in this )yage, had been her prime minister. -He had a know- idge of navigation, and was thoroughly acquainted rith the number, situation, and inhabitants of the ad- icent islands. This chief had often expressed a desire go with us when we continued our voyage. 4^HJ Q ' On s& CAPTAIN cook's On the 11th in the morning he came on bofrd, with a boy about twelve years of age, his servant, H h'arhed Taiyota, and requested the gentlemen on board CO let him go with them. As we thought he might be useful to us in many particulars, we unanimously agreed4b comply with this request. Tupia then went onshore for the last time to bid farewel to his friends, to whom he gave several baubles, as parting tokens of remembrance. Mr. Banks, after dinner, bein^ willing to obtain a drawing of the Moraia, which Tootahah had Jn his A possession at Eparre, Captain Cook accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solander. They immediately, upon landing, repaired to Toota- hsih's house, where they were met by Oberea iind seve- ral others. A general good understanding prevailed. Tupia came back with them, and they promised to view the gentlemen early the next day, as they were told they should then sail. On the 13th, these friendly people came very early on board, and the ship was surrounded with a' vast / number of canoes, filled with Indians of the lower sort. Between eleven and twelve we weighed Anchor; and, notwithstanding all the little misunderstandings between the Enghsh and the natives, the latter, who possessed a ^rieatvnd of good nature and much sensi< bility, took their^ave^ weeping in an affectionate manner. As to 'Ifq>ia, he supported himself through this scene with a becoming fortitude. Tears flowed from his eyes, it is true, but the effort he made to conceal them, did him additional honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, and waving his hand, took a Ibst farewel of his country. Thus we departed from Otaheite, after a stay of ju&t three jnonths. I ( J ill 'S» CHAP. FIRST VOYAGE, 51 ' CHAP. V. in historical and descriptive account of Otaheite-^Of the island and its productions — Of the inhabitants, their dress, darllings, manner of living— Diversions, and disease. ^ORT Royal bay, in the island of Otaheite, we found to be within half a degree of its real situation ; ind point Venus, the northern extremity of this inland, jnd the eastern part of the bay, lies in 144 de^. 30 min. longitude. A reef of coral rocks surround the island, forming several excellent bays, amonj; which, arid iqual to the best of them, is Port Royal. The most pro- )er ground for anchoring is on the eastern side of the ^ay. The shore is a fine sandy beach, behind which tins a river of fresh water, very convenieht for a fleet )f ships. The face of the country is very uneven. It rises In ridges that run up into the middle of the island, wh^Ye they form mountains, which may be seen at the dis*- iance of sixty miles. The only parts of the ii^land that ireinhabited, are the low lands, lying between the foot >f the ridges and the sea. The houses do not form tillages, but are ranged along the whole border. Be- jFore them are little groups of plantaJn trees, which fuf- lish them with clbth. Accarding^to TupiaV account, ibis island could furnish above 6000 fighting men. The produce is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, sweet potai- toes, yamsjjumbu, a delicious fruit, sugar-canes the pa. }er mulberry, several sorts offigs, with many other plants md trees, all which the earth produces spontaneouslyi^ The people in general are of a larger make th^n the {Europeans. The males are mostly tall and robust, and ihe women above the size of our English ladies. Their jatural complexion is of a fine clear olive, their skin lelicately smooth and soft; Their faces in general are landsome, and their eyes full of sensibility. Their Iteeth are remarkably white and regular, and their jbreath is entirely free from any disagreeable smell. G 2 They W'^:, ' 92 CAPTAIN COOK's^ They clothe themselves in cloth and matting (^va* rious kinds: the first they wear in fine, the latter in vrct weather. The women of a ^superior class wear >tlii:ee or f0Ur pieces. Ontii which is of considerabie .length, they wrap several times round their waist, and .lillsdownto the middle of the leg. Two or ibree other short pieces, with a hole cut in the vtQid4le of each, are placed on one another, and their heads com* 'log. through' the holes, the long. ends liang. beifore ffd .'behind, both sides being open, by which dneans Ihey .have the free use of their arms. ( The nmeri'sdresB is very^ similar^ dilfering only (in; this . Sfistancej and one part of the igarmentj instead of tfalling I l^elow. the knees, is brought between the legs. This dress is worn by all raaksof people, the oi^ly distinction • ' being quantity in the superior class. The boys and fgirisgo quitenaked ; the first till they are seven oreigbf lyeirs old ; the latter till they are aibout fiveor six. 'The.nativesofOtaheite seldom use) their ihoitses but ' to aleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they eat in the open air. Their clothes serve them for a corering in the inight. Wesawihouses thatare general receptacleiforthe inha- bitaata of a district, inany of thehi being more than 2O0 feet in length, 40 in breadth, and 70i0r .80 feet high. Their cookery consists chiefly in bakiogj the manner of doing which hasLjen noticed. When a chief kills a hog> he-divides it equally among his vassals. rWhen the •bread-fruit is not in season, cocoa-^nuts, bananas, and plantains, are substituted in their stead. They.bake .their bread-fruit in anaanncr which rendiers it some- ^ivhat like amealy potatoe. Of this three- idiishes are inade, by beating them up. with bananas, , plantains, or sour paste, which is called by them mahie. ); The chief eats generally alone, unless when' visited ,by a stranger. Not having known theuseof a table, rth^ysiton. the; ground, and leaves of trees spread before •ihem ^erve as a table cloth. They* then begin their xxieals with. the ceremony of washing their mouths and hands; after which- they eat a handful of: bread-fniit pndfish^ dipt in ^It./water alternate lyitjilthe whole is :£ consumed, »1!1(MT .W>1SAQl». ^ lonsumed, taking a sip of salt water between almost [very morsel. The bread-fmiit. ahd fish is succeeded W the second course. During this time a soft fluid of Uste is prepared lirom the ' brettir^fpait, v^which tfacy [rink out of cocQai''nul shells :> this oonnkidesihe ineal» id their hands and nioiiths.aie^a§ain >washed asatthe •ginning. v ' , One of the worst customs iof the people of Olah^ite s, that which several of the /principal people of* the Jand have adopted, of uniting .in >an acsoqiatlon, therein no woman confines* herself to any particular lan, by which means theyohtain>a> perpetual .society, ^.he members havemeetings wbej-eih^the men amuse lemselves with wrestling, tandv the women vtj^nce the pniorodee, in such^a maaneras is -most likely to ex- Mte the desires of the other s^^' and which were fre- . * luently gratified in the assembly. >A much ^ worse ractice is the consequence of ^thts. vlf any of the wo- ^ len prove with> ohila, the -taf^nt; is ' destroyed, unless ie mother's natural affection should prevaiK with. her preserve its life, which, however, is forfeited unless le can procure .a roan ,to .adopt it. lAtid where sl|e icceeds in this» she is expelled>from the society^ beiiig illed Whannownow, which signifies the > bearer ef lildren, by way of reproach. Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, wewereappmdd if the natives having the French disease among them. le islanders call it by a name expressive of its effects, observing, that the tair. and nails ^of those who. wei« irst infected by it, fdl off, and the flesh rotted from le bones, while their countrymen, and even nearest slations, who were unaffected, were so much terrified It its ^mptoms, that the unhappy -sufferer was often '>rsaken by them, and left to perish in the most mi- rable condition.^ ' v CHAP. 14 OAPTAIK cook's CHAP. vr. The Endeavour continues her voyagc-^Visits the island; in the neighbourhood of Otaheite'^An account oj\ several incidents^ and qf various particulars relatim to the inhahitants^^The passage of the EndeavouA '>^'from Oteroah to New Zealand— Events on gotnA .iUashorCt and incidents while the ship was in Povertin •V'Bay^-'The country described-^ Excursions to Captl Turnagaint and return to Tolaga — The ijihahitantsl described : and a narrative of what happened whik ■:..i5tve were on that part of the coast — The range from v(fi Tolaga to Mercury Bay^^Incidents that happenedl on board t/ie Endeavour and ashore — A desciipfml ^.of the country — Sail from Merairy Bay to the Boyl of Islands-^ Description of the Indians on the bank\ Oiof the Thames— Interview and skirmishes wilhl ,^ulthe natives — Range from^ the, Bay of Islands rouni\ i\ Nor 6li Cape, .\,:u.:'.: .*"•'■ .:i n::' . .: .■....;-. • 'ij J !»•• ,-.Mf!V7' 'JY- ' |N the ISth of Jaly, 1769, after ;leaving the island of Olaheite^ we continued our coursr, with clear ; weather and a gentle breeze^ aiid were informed by Tupia^ that four islands which he called Huaheine, iUiieta, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the distance of about one or two days sail ; and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, very scarce on board, were to be got there in great abundance. On the ;1 5th, we madej but little way, on account of the calms which succeed* ed the Jight breezes. Tupia often prayed to his god I ;Tane, for a wind, and boasted of his success, which .indeed he took care to insure, by never applying io Tane, till he saw: a breeze so near, that he knewiti must reach the ship before his prayer was concluded. On the 16th, we sounded near the north-west parti of the island of Huaheine, but found no bottom a 70 fathoms. Several of the canoes put off; but the Indians seemed fearful of coming near the bark till the sight of Tupia removed their apprehensions. They then came[ , , f ;. along- FIK8T VOYACTB. 55 ^n(^-side, and the king of the island, with his queeif, [me on board. They seemed surjkrised at cverv thing Bt was shewn them, hut made no enquiries after any ing hue what was ofTerci to their notice. After ie time they became more familiar i and the king, -lose name was Oree, ns a token of amity, proposed [changing names with Captain Cook, which was tidily aecepted. Having anchored, in a small harbour, we went on ore with Mr. Banks and some other gentlemen, ac- kmpanied by the king and Tupia. As soon as we hded, Tupia uncovered himself as low as the waist, (d desired Mr. Monkhouse loduthe same. Being ited, he now began a speech, or prayer, which lasted out twenty minutes ; the king, who stood opposite him, answering in what seemed set replies. During i harangue, Tupia delivered, at different times, a idkerchief, a black silk neck-cioth, some plantains, \d two bunches of feathers, all which we carried on fard. These ceremonies were considered as a kind ratification of a peace between us and the king of uaheine. [On the 17th, we went again on shore, and made an icursion into the country, the productions of which Katly resembled those of Ocaheite ; the rocks andchy imed, indeed, more burnt : the boat houses were cu- ius, and remarkably large. The level part of the luntry affords the most beautiful landscapes that the pagination can possibly form an idea of. I On the 19th, we offered the natives some hatchets, r which we procured three very large hogs. As we tended to sail in the afternoon, king Oree, and others the natives came on board tu take their leave. Capt. ^ok presented to Oree, a pewter plate, stamped with Is inscription, " His Britannic Majesty's ship En- layour, Captain Cook <;ammander, 16th of July, ?69.*' We gaye him aisd some medals, resembling ir English coin,, whicl) he promised to keep, in or* J »r'toremember^4is. > -^ ^Ontke aothiiby the*dirt<5tionof Tupia, we iinchored |ia bay, formed by a reef, on the north side of the * island. *»' iii CATTiLIM COOK t islandk TWb'canbe» tboricameoiflr fr6mth^ shore, andtlienafivet brou^twith them two snmH hogtj wbtcK thcylexehaiigftd /6r loine'iMtk'tnd b«idt. The C8pta(in> Mr Bankt^' and olber gentlemen, now went oir8h>iire,ac6oropaniedbt Tupia^ who ititroduocd them #ith the srniie kind of ceremonies that had taken place oh their I^ndfngi at Hiiaheine ; after which Captain Cook took possession ot this and the three neigbbouring islands, HuaheiBe.Otahai and Bbla- bola, inthe^nafneof his Britinnic Mi^esty. On the 2-l8t, the master was^eht to inspect the sou< t^rnpart of the island, and alieatenant was dispatched inthef yawlto souhd the harbour where the EndeaYour liyj. Whtlethe captain went in the pinnaee, to' take a vfeW of' that part df the island which lay to the north- ward> Mr; Banks- arid the gentlemen w^nt again on shore, trading vt\^ the natives, and seirching.after tlie productions and curic^ities of the country. The hazy weather and brisk ga^es prevented us frbn I giettihg under sail till the 24th, when we pot t6 sea^' stnd steered northward within thereef, towards an open* ing, at the distance of about six leagues, in effecting j which we were.in danger of striking on i». roCk^ the taSatti who sanded, crying out on a sudden, * twofa< tbomS," which could not but alarm us greatly ; butei* tKer the master was mistaken, or the ship went' along thef edgeof a coral rock, many of Which in the neigh* boArhodd of theSe islands are as steep as a wall. The bay where the 'Endeavour lay at anchor^ called Oop<)a;48f capacious enough to hold a grdat numberef| shipping, and secured from the siea by a reef of rocks, lis si^tuation is offthe easternmost part of the island.— Thop^ovis:iclns consist of cocoa-nuts, yams^ plan tain Ji> arid a few hogs and fo wl^. The country round about the'place where we landed, w*as ridtso plentiful asatj Otah^ite of Huaheine. ' The aOuthernmost opening in tlie le^fy or channel into thekile more than acabl^'^ltngthwide; it41esofF| the easternmost point of the island^ and maybe found I by a-$(naH woody island) vHiwhlicii tfOithlssQudtieaOof {>»Sk! PtRtT VOTAOE. 17 L called Oitara ; north-west from which are two ther islets called OpururuandTamou. Between thcw the channel throug^h which we went out of the har- >ur, and it is a full quarter of a mile wide. On the 25th, we were within a league of* two of the \zf*d of Otoha ; but could not get near enough to land, the wind having proved contrary. In the »rain{;, Mr. Banks and Dr. Sotander went in the ig boat with the master, in order to sound a hav- ur on>he east side of the island, which they found ife and convenient. We then went on shore, and irchased a large quantity of plantains, ?n'! some hogs id fowls. The produce of this island was much the le with that of Uiieta,t>ut seemed to be more barren. We then made sail to the northward, and at eight :lock on the 29th, we were under the high peaks of >labola. We found the island inaccessible in thia rt. On the 30th, we discovered an island which ipia called Maurua, but said it was small, surround- by a reef, and without commodioui harbour, but in- lited, and nearly yielded the same produce as the [jacent islands. In the afternoon, finding ourselves windward of some harbours that lay on the west le of Ulieta, we intended to put into one of them, [order to stop a leak which had sprung in the powdet »m. The wind being right against us, we plied on off till the afternoon of the 1st of August, when came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel, lich led into one of the harbours. JOn Wednesday the 2d, when the tide turned, we Ime into a proper place for mooring, in 28 fathom. |any of the natives came off, and brought hogs, '«ls, and plantains, which wejre purchrAced upon )derate terms. Mr. Banlcs and Dr. Solander went shore, and spent the day very agreeably ; the na- ;s shewed them great respect, being conducted to houses of the chief people. In one house, they lerved some very young girls, dressed in the neatest inner, who kept their places, waiting for the stran- jrs to accost them ; these girls were the most beau- li the gentlemen had ever seen, 2 H In 58 CAPTAIN COOK S I In one of these houses we r ^re entertained with a dance The performer put upon his head a large piece of wicker- work, about four feet long, of a cylindrical form, covered with feathers, and edged round with shark's teeth. With this head-dress, he began to dance with a slow motion; frequently moving his head so as to describe a circle with the top of his wicker cap, an(l| sometimes throwing it so near the faces of the by-stan- ders as to make him jump back ; this they considered! as an excellent piece of humour, and it always pro. duced a hearty laugh, when pracHscd upon any of the| English gentlemen. On Saturday the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and se-j veral large pieces of cloth, many of them being fifty or| sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plan- tains, and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain Cook, as a | present from the Earee Rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, importing that he was then! on the island, and intended waiting on the captain. On the 6th, the king of Bolabola did not visit usl agreeable to his promise ; his absence, however, was not in the least regretted, ashesent three young women to demand something in return for this present. Aftcl dinner, we set out to pay the king a visjt on .shore. i\| this man was the Ear^^e Rahie of the Bolaboiamen, who. had conquered this, and were the dread oC ail tjiel neighbouring islands, we were greatly disappointed, instead of finding a vigorous, enterprising young chief] to see a poor feeble old dotard, half blind, and sinkingl under the weight of age and infirmities. He receivedl UP without either that state or ceremony which wehadj hitherto met with among other chiefs. On Wednesday the 9thj having stopped a leak, andl taken on board a fresh stock of provisions, we sailed outl of the harbour : and though we were several leagues dis*] tant from the island of Bolabola, Tupia earnestly in- treated Captain Cook, that a shot might be fired towards! it; which, to gratify him, the captain complied with! It was supposed to have been intended by Tupia as a mark of his resentment against the inhabitants of that! , '. place] FIRST VOYAGE. 59 ace as they had formerly taken from him large pos- [ssions which he held in the island of Ulieta, of which land Tupia was a native, and a subordinate chief, it was driven out by these warriors. [Being detained longer at Ulieta in repairing the ship m we expected, we did not go on shore at Bolabola; It after giving the general name of the Society Islands, the islands of Huaheine, Ulieta, Bolabola, Otaha, [aurua, which lie between the latitude of 16 deg. min. and 18 deg. 55 min. south ; we pursued our {urse, standing southerly for an island, to which we [ere directed by Tupia, at above 100 leagues distant, tis we discovered on the 13th, and were informed him it was called Obiterea. [On the 14ih, we stood in for land, and saw several the inhabitants coming along the shore. One of the ttenants was dispatched in the pinnace to sound for :horage,and to obtain what intelligence could be got (m the natives concerning any land that might go lar- ;r to the south. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tu- i, went with the lieutenant in the boat. When they jproached the shore, they observed that the Indians ;re armed with long lances. A number of them were m drawn together on the beach, and two jumped into water, endeavouring to gain the boat, but she soon them, and some others that had made the same at- ipt, far enough behind her. Having doubled the [int where they intended to land, they opened a large r, and saw another party of the natives standing at end of it, armed like those whom they had seen [fore. Preparations were then made for landing, on tich a canoe full ot Indians made off towards them. )serving this, Tupia received orders to acquaint them It the English did not intend to offer them violence, |t meant to traffic with them for nails, which were )duced. Thus informed, they came along-side the It, and took some nails that were given them, being smingly well pleased with the present. Yet, a fewmi- ^tes after, these people boarded the boat, designing ta ig heron shores but some muskets being dicharged H 2 over 66 CAPtAlK dodit'» over their liead^, they leaped imc the sea, atid having reached the canoe, put back with af} possible expedition, joining their countrymen, whrt stood ready to receive I them. The boatimttiediately purstred the fugitive, but { the crew finding the surf extremely violent, did not venture to land there, but coasted alohg shore to try if I thev could not find a mote convenient ^lace. Soon after the- canoe got on sh-^re^ a man opposite I the bdat Nourished his Weapon, calling out at the same tiwife with a shrill Voice, which Was a m»rk of defiance, as Tupia explained itfothe English. — Not being able to find a proper Jandirtg-phce, rhey returned, with an intenrfion to attempt it where the canoe wefjt on shore;] whereupon another v/arrroT repeated the defiance: appearance Was more forfttfdable than that af the other.! When he thought fit to retire, a gmve man came for- ward, td a^k Tupia several questions, relating to thel phtte from whCrtCe the vessel came, who Were the per] sOrtS OA board? whfther they whert bound? &c. Aftetl thfs, it was proposed tfhat the people in the bo^at shotiMl goon -thore and trade with them, if they would lay asidej theff weapons; but the latter would not agree to thw, unless^the English would do th« like. As this proposall was by no rweans art equal one, wheti it was CtjAsideredj that ib6 hsnrard must, tot iflafny reasons, be greater t(i| the bdet's cfew than the Indians; and as perfidy wi di^adied, h wm nof complied with, fieirdes, since nciJ ther the bay which thfe Endeavour entered, nor antl other part df the ishnd, furnished good harbour or an{ Chorage, it Was resolved lidf to attempt landing ai) niorej but to sail from h«rTrce tb^ the southward. On the I5t!h, We sailed frotti this isFand with a brtiesfe; but on the f 6th it washa?^, afitd we "bore amj fot what resembled very high peaAs df land. Thewesj ther clearing up, we werecortvitiqedof out misfake,an(lj resunAed our course accordi ngly; Land was diwoveti at west by north, on the 7th of October, artd' in il fitorniiig of the 8th, we cattie to an anchor opposite!] ktjaHriyer, uot abote httif aleag\we frdtn the coi^t. •If J FllST VbVAGE. 61 Captdirt Cbdk, Mf. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some Itbcr gentl^rtieftihi^ving le>f the pinnace at the mouih if the river, proteedtd a Ym\€ further up, when we Inded, )eavtiTg the yawl to the care of some of our boys, kd vcent uptoa few sma-U houses in th^ neighbourhood. Jnie of the natives that had ceVn6n in t\iey?:'i9l h4d landed preceding evening, and the greafest pstrc of ttvew >peared to l)etiftarmed. The long-boat, pinnace, ayyd Iwf, being aranned t^ilh itearittesaiid stfilors, Captain )0k atid Topia went bn shoft, aiwHandifdod the op- )site sideeftheriv«T,o^etaga4n(8taspot whcfre several idians were sitting ott' the groiiud. Th«y imenediM^f arted upv aiid began ^o handle thei^ weapof^, each roduced either a lotfg p'lkt,^ a kind of trUivcheon lade of ston*, *«^ifh a^trrn^g tlirough the batidk of ity. fhich' they twisted t^nd their WrislJ. Tttpia was dt- ictecPto speak to them in hi^ lan^ttagej and we were Veatly itifjMfised to -find that h^e wa^We^M understood, ^e natives speaking in his lAngttafge,-thbi!i'gh in a differ- It diateet. Xhehr intenticfi^' at fifst a>|>peat«ti to bcf jry hi^stlle, brandiahing thth* vt^eapbrw in the usual rr^atening manner, opow whieha musket was ii'redat' itnt dfstafnee: the bttll happfettied to fallmibihewat*?, ^ wWch «Vey appe&tdd mtWeiC tcWHied', and desisted 6i CAPTAIN COOK S I' from their menaces. Having now drawn up the ma- rines, we advanced nearer to the s'ideofthe river. Tu. pia, again speaking, informed them of our desire to traffic with them for'provisions: to this they consented, provided he would go over to them lo thf* other side of the river. The proposal was agreed to upon condition that the natives would quit their weapons; but the most solemn assurances of friendship could not prevaii with them to make such a concession. Not thinking it pru- dent, therefore, to cross the river, we, in our turn, in- treated the Indians to come over to us, and after some time prevailed on one of them so to do. He was pre- sently followed by others. They did not appear to^value beads and iron, which we offered in the way of barter, but proposed to exchange their weapons for ours, which being objecied to, they endeavoured to snatch our arms from us, but being on our guard, from the information given us by Tupia, that they were still our enemiesj and Tupia, by our direction, gave them to understand, I that any further offers of violence wogld be punished with instant death. One of them, nevertheless, had the audacity to snatch Mr. Green's dagger when his I back was turned to them, andretiring a few pacesj flourished it over his head; but his temerity cost him his life; for Mr. Monkhouse fired a musket,and he in- stantly dropped. Soon after, though not before we had discharged our pieces, they retreated slowly up the{ country, and we returned to our beat. The behaviour of the Indians, added to our .'/ant of I fresh water, induced Captain Cook to continue his voy- age round the bay, with a hope of getting some of the natives on board, that by civil usage he might convey through ihem a favourable idea of us to their ccuntry- men, and thereby settle a good correspondence with! them. An event occurred which, though attended'with disagreeable circumstances, promised to facilitate this de- sign. Twocanoesappeared, making towards land, andi Captain Cook proposed intercepting them with curl boats. One of them got clear off, but the Indians inj the other finding it impossible to escape, began to at- tack! FIRST VOYAGE. 63 ^ck our people in the boats with their paddles. This jmpelled the Endeavour's people to fire upon them, fhen four of the Indians were killed, and the other ree who were young men, jumped into the water, id endeavoured to swim ashore; they were, however, :en up and conveyed on board. At first they disco- Ired all the signs of fear and terror, thinking they (ould be killed ; but Tupla, by repeated assurances of lendship, removed their apprehensions, and they aftcr- trds eat heartily of the ship*:, provisions. Having re- red to rest in the evening, they slept very quietly for [me hours, but about midnight their fears returning, ;y appeared in great agitation frequently making loud Id dismal groans. Again the kind caresses and friendly tomises of Tupia, operated so effectually, that theybe- [me calm, and sung a song, which at the dead of the iht had a pleasing effect. The next morning, after |;y were dressed according to the mode of their coun- r, and were ornamented with necklaces and bracelets, jparations were made for sending them to their couq- {men,at which they expressed great satisfaction; but [ding the boat approaching Captain Cook's first land- -place,thfy Intimated that the inhabitants were foes, that after killing their enemies they always eat them, 'he captain, nevertheless, judged it expedient to |d near the same spot, which he accordingly did, with r. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia ; resolving at the le time to protect the youths from any injury that ;ht be offered them. These had scarcely departed on sir return to their friends, when two large parties of lians advanced hastily towards them, upon which ^y again flew to us for protection. When the Indians iw near, one of the boys discovered his uncle among ^m, and a conversation ensued across the river, iQ [ich they boy gave a just account of our hospitality, took great pains to display his finery, short time after this coversation, the uncle swam i s the river, bringing with him a green bough, a :n of friendship, which we received as such, and se- ll presents were made them. Notwithstanding the presence €4 CAfTATN cook's presence of this relation, alJ thfee oiF the bays, by their own desire, returned to the ship. ', but as the captain intenried to sail the next morning, he sent them ashore in the evening, though niueh against their inclination. They informed u« of a particular kind of deer upon the isknd. On the ilth. at six o'clock in the morning, we weighed and set sail, in hopes of finding a better an* choring place. Captain Cook having given the bay the name of Poverty Bay. In the afternoon we were becalmed ; and several canoefi full of Indians came off from the shore, who received many priesents, and afterwards bartered even their clothes, and some of their paddles, so eager were they of European cano. modities. The Indians were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and of the bone of a large animal: they were contrived for close fighting. Having finished their tra&, they set off in such a hurry, tha't they forgot three of their companions, who remained on bcnard all night. These testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupii took great pains to convince them they were in no danger ; and about seven o'clock the next morning, a canoe came olF with font Indians on board. It wai at first with difficulty the Indians in the ^ip couldl prevail on those in the canoe to come near them, not till after the former had assured them> that tb({ Engli^ did not eat men. fhOn the 12tfa, several Indians caniie ofif in a canocjl and at times appeared to be peaceably inclined, but at others to menace hostilities, brandishing their lancci^ and other hostile gestures. A* four^pounder loaded with grape shot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. This had the desired effect, ^nd made them drop a«stern. On Friday the 13th, in the morning, we infide for aiJ inlet, but finding it not sheltered, stood out again; ani were chaced by a canoe filled with Indians, but theE» deavour out^^ailed them. She pursued her course round the bay^t but could not find an opening* Nineqanoq cj:v:-.- full FIRST VOYAGE. ■ 6$ 11 of Indians came from the shore, and fiveof theni> [er having consulted together, pursued the Endeavour, Iparently with a hostile d^iigfii Tupia was desired ^acquaint them, that imgi^^.te destruction would ^ue, if they persevered in their attempts ; but words no influence, and a four-pounder with grape shot fired. They were terrified at this sort of reasoning, went away faster than they came. In the 20th, we anchored in a bay two leagues to north of the Foreland. To this bay we were in- id by the natives in canoes, who behaved very licably, and pointed to a place where they said wft )uld find plenty of fresh water. We determined here it some knowledge of the country, though the har- r was not so good a shelter from the weather as we jcted. — Two chiefs, whom we saw in the canoes, le on board; they were dressed in jackets, the one imented with tufts of red feathers, the other with [-skins. We presented to them linen and some Le nails, but they did not value the last so much 9» inhabitants of the other islands, 'owards-the evening we went on shore, accompanied the captain ai:^! Dr. Solander. We were courteously lived by the inhabitants, who did not appear in nu-- »us bodies, and in other instances were scrupulously jintive not to give offence. We made them several U pr.esents,.andinthisagfeea,ble tour round the bay, had the pleasure of fieding two streams of fresh wa- We remained on shore aJl night, and the next day Banks and Dr. Solander discovered several Urge Is, among which were quails and large pigeon^.-r^ my stages for drying fish were observed near where we led,, and some houses with fences. We saw dogs pointed ears,at)d very ugly. Sweet potatoes, like se which grow in America, were found. The ch>th It grows spontaneous. In the neighbouring vallies lands were laid out in regular plantations ; and iu bay we bought plenty of crabs, cray fish, and horse- ;karel, larger than those on the English coasts. The lands were planted with cocoas s the hollows with X gourds; \ 60 CAPTAIK cook's gourds; but as to the woods, they were almost impasJ sable on account of the mtinber of supplr>-jacks whichl grew there. We went into several houses belonging toj the natives, and met with • tery civil reception; and] without the least reserve, they shewed us whatever wA desired to see. At times we round them at their raealJ which our presence never interrupted. At this seasonj fish constituted theirchief food ; with which they eafJ instead of bread, roots of a kind of fern ; these, whenl roasted upon a fire, are sweet and clammy : in taste no(| disagreeable, though rather unpleasant,from the numberl of their fibres. They have doubtless in other seasons of| the year an abundance of excellent vegetables. - The women of this place paint their taces with a mii.! . ture of red ochre and oil, which, as they are very plain,! renders them in appearance more homely. This kinjl of daubing being generally wet upon their cheeks andl foreheads, was easily transferred to those who saloteif them, as was frequently visible U|>on the noses of oufl people. The young ones, who were complete coquetif wore a petticoat^ under which was a girdle, made ofthJ blades of grass strongly perfumed, to which was pendanil a small bunch of leaves, of some fragrant plant. Tlxl faces of the men were not Jn general painted ; but thejl were daubed with dry red ochre from head tb foot, tbeiij aipparel not. excepted. Though in personal cleanlines they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, yet ia| some particulars they surpassed them: for their dwelling were furnished with privies, and they had dunghills upoij which their offals and filrh were deposited. Among th females chastity was lightly esteemt d. They resorte frequently to the watering-place, where they trcely stowed every favour that was requested. An offic meeting with an elderly woman, he accompanied heri her house, and having presented her with someclQ and beads, a young girl was singled out, with whom \\\ was given to understand he might retire. Soon after: elderly man, with two women came as visitors, wh with much formality, saluted the whole company, af the custom of the place, which is by gently joining ( tid FIRST VOYAGE. 67 )8 of their noses together. On his return, which was Saturday the 21st, he was urnished with a guide, 10, whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, took 1 on his bacic, to prevent his b6ing wet. Many of - natives were curiously tatowed ; an old man in par- jar, was marked on the breast with curious figures. lese Indians at night dance in a very uncouth man- Ir, with antic gestures, lolling out their tongues, and tking strange grimaces. In their dances, old men J well as the young ones, are capital performers. [Onthe22d, in the evening, we weighed anchor and It to sea -, but the wind being contrary, wc «tood for [other bay,a iitde to the south, called by tkc natives llaga, in order to complete our wood and water, and [extend our correspondence with the natives. We inda watering-place in a small cove a little whhin the ith point of the bay, which bore south by east, dis- ^t about a mile. Several canoes with Indians on. ird, trafficked with us very fairly for glass ,bott|cs.. ' 3n Monday the 23d, in the af(ernoon,we went oa >re, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and i captain. We examined and found the water ex» imely good } also plenty of wood, and the natives Swed us as much civility as those from whom we had. ;ly departed. At this watering-place we set up a aa ronomical quadrant, and took several solar and lunar lervations. In our walks through the vales, we saw jiny houses uninhabited, the natives residing chiefly in sds, or the ridges of the hills, which are very steep, le hills are clothed with beautiful flowering shrub^ ^ermixed with a number of tall stately palms, which rfume the air, making it perfectly odoriferous. We (t with various kinds of edible herbage in great abun*^^, nee, and many trees which produced fruit fit to cat, reet potatoes and plantains are cultivated near thf ises. >n our return, we met an old man, who entertained with the military exercise of the natives, which ig |rformed with the patoo-patoo and lance. The for* ;r has been already mentiooed^ and is used as a battle* 68 CAPTAIN COOKS axe ; the latter is 18 or 20 feet in length, and made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake ' was substituted for a supposed enemy. The old warrior first attacked him with his lance, advancing with a most furious aspect. Having pierced him, the patoo-patoo wasused to demolish his head, at which he struck with a force which would at one blow have split any man's skull ; from whence we concluded no quarter was given by these people to their foes in time of action. The natives in these parts are very numerous. They are tolerably Well shaped, but lean and tall. TheiV faces resembli* diose of; the Europeans. Their noses are aqualitt^'^theit eyes dark coloured, their hair black, wnicli is^cd tip to the top of their heads, and the men's beards are, of a naoderate length. Their tatow. ing is done very curiously, in various figures, which make their skin resemble carving ; it is confined to the principal men, the females ana servants using only red paiht, with which they daub their faces, tvhich otherwise would not be disagreeable. Gn the ^ ^tb, we set up the armourer's forge on shore for necessary uses, iind got our wood and water without the least molestation from the natives, with whom we exchanged glass bottles and beads for dififer* ent sorts of fish. On the 27ih, Captain Cook and Dr. Colander went| to inspect the bay, when the doctor was not a little sur- prised to find the natives in the possession of a boy's top, which, they knew how to spin by whipping it, and he purchased it out of curiosity. Mr. Banks was during this employed in attainiiig the summit of a steep hi!!, that had previously engaged their attention, and nearit he found majiy inhabited houses. When the gentlemen met at the watering-place, the inhabitants sang their war song, which was a strange melody of shouting and grimace, at which the women assisted. The next day, Captain Cook and other gentlemen went upon the island at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was 67 feet in length, six in breadth, and four in beights her bottom, which was sharp, consisted of ''-'"' ■' three FIRST VOYAGE. ^9 iree trunks of trees, and the sides and head w«re iriously carved. ^ , . - Their huts arc builc under trees, tneir form isi an ilong square, the door low on the side, and the win- [ws are in the ends : reeds covered with thatch, com- [se the walls; the beams of the caves, which come the ground, arc covered with thatch ; most of the kuses had been deserted, through fear of the Eng- (h, upon their landing. There is a great variety of Ih'in the bay, shell and cray-fish are very plentiful, Ime of the latter weigh 12 pounds. Sunday, October the 2yth, we set sail from this ly. It is situated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. south, ir leagues to the north of Gable End Forelnnd ; ;re are two high rocks, at the entrance of the bay, »ich form a cove very ^ood for procuring woo ! and ^tcr. This is a very hilly country, though it presents eye with an agreeable verdure, various woods, and Iny small plantations. Mr. Banks found a great [mber of trees in the woods quite unknown to iropeans ; the fire-wood resembled the maple tree, |d produced a gum of a whitish colour ; other trees Uded a gum oi a deep yellow green. The only roots ^re yams and sweet potatoes, though the soil appears ty proper for producing every species of vegetables. In Monday the SOlh, sailing to the northward, we in with a small island about a mile distant from the [rth-east point of the main, and this being the most stern part of it, the captain liamed it East Cape, and island East Island; it was but small, and appeared [rren. The Cape is in latitude S7 deg. 42 min. 30 sec. ith. Having doubled the Cape, many villages pre- ited themselves to view, and the adjacent land ap- ared cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieu- iant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was ren. Next morning about nine, several canoes came from the shore with a number of armed men, who [peared to have hostile intentions Belore thesf' had iched the ship, another canoe> larger than any that [d yet been seen, full of ai med Indians, came off, and made 70 CAPTAIN cook's ■^■ made towards the Endeavour, with great expedition.1 The captain now judging it expedient to prevent, ifl possible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be firedl over their heads. This not producing the desired effect] another gun was fired with ball, which threw them into such consternation, that they immediately retumedl faster than they came. . [ On the 1st of November, not less than between 4ol and 50 canoes were seen, several of which came ofFasI before, threatening to attack the English. One of theirl chiefs flourished his pike, and made several harangued seeming to bid defiance to those on board the vessel] At last, after repeated invitations, they came close al side ; but instead of shewing a disposition to trade, th(| liaranguing chief uttered a sentence, and took up a stonel which he threw against the ship, and immediately afterl seized their arms. A piece of cloth, however, happen] ing to attract their eyes, they began to be more mildl and reasonable. A quantity of cray-fish, muscles, and! conger eels was now purchased. No fraud was attemptj ed by this company of Indians, but some others thail came after them, took goods from the vessel without! making proper returns. Yet, when those savages I to trafBck with the sailors, they renewed their fraudsj and one of them was bold enough to seize some linei)! that was hung to dry, and run away with it. In ordtrl to induce him to return, a musket was fired over hii| head, but this not answering the end, he was shotiol the back with small shot, yet he still persevered in hii| design. In consequence of their behaviour, though they made! no preparations to attack the vessel, the captain gaveT orders to fire a four-pounder, which passed over then); but its effects on the water terrified them so niucbj that they retreated with precipitation to the shore. In the afternoon, about two o'clock, we discoverel a pretty high island to the west. Sometime after, per] ceiving other rocks and islands in the same quarter, bit not being able to weather them before night cameonj we bore up between them and the main land. In th(| evening) a double canoe, built after the same fashions thoa i-'IRST VOYAGE. 71 )8C of Otaheitc, came up, when Tupia^enteied into [friendly conversJiHon with the Indians, and was told It the island, close to which we lay, was called tottTtohora. The next morning, between the 2d, a number of ca- ii appeared, and one, which proved to be the same it pelted us the night before, came up. After con- rsing with Tupia, and behaving peaceably about hour, they complimented us with another volley of mes. We returned the salute by firing a musket, lich made them instantly take to their paddles. Be- [een ten and eleven we sailed between a low flat find and the main land. [On the 3d, we passed the night near a small island, nich Captain Cook named the Mayor. We now [led towards an inlet that had been discovered, and ^ing anchored in seven fathom water, the ship was >n surrounded by a number of canoes, and the Dple on board them did not seem disposed for some le to commit any acts of hostility. [On the 4th, at day break, no less than twelve noes made their appearance, containing near two Indred men, armed with spears, lances, and stones 10 seemed determined to attack the ship, and would ve boarded her, had they known on what quartet ey could best have made their attack. While they Ire paddling round her, which kept the crew upon S watch in the rain, Tupia, at the request of the )tain, used a number of dissuasive arguments to ivent their carrying their apparent designs into exe- tion : but we could not pacify them by the fire of ■■muskets; they then laid aside their hostile inten- is, and began to trade ; yet they could not refrain Im their fraudulent practices; for after they had \\y bartered two of their weapons, they would not liver up a third, for which they had received cloth, B only aughed at those who demanded an equiva- It. The offender was wounded with small shot- ^ his countrymen took not the least notice of him* contmucd to trade without the least discompogurc^ 72 CAPTAIN cook's On the 5th, in the morning, the Indians canie of} to the ship again, who behaved much better th^n they bad done the preceding day. An old la&n in particular, named Tojava, testified his prudence and honesty, to whom, ttnd a friend with him, the captain presented $ome n?.ils, and two pieces of English cloth. Tojava informed us that they were often visited by freebooters | from the north, who stripped them of all they could lay their bands on, and at times madc^ captives of their | wives and cliildren : and that being ignoraiit who the English vvere upon their first arrival, the natives had been much alarmed, but were pow satisfied of their j good intentions. On the 8th, we were visited by several canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who, descrying two canoes, | , hastened hack to the shore, apprehending they were free- booters ; but finditig his mistake, he soon returned ; and j the Indians supplied us with as much excellent fish as | served the whole ship's company. This day a variety of plants were collected by M r. thinks and Dr .Solander, On the 10th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the captain, went in boats to inspect a large river that runs| into the bay. They found it broader some miles within I than at the mouth, and intersected into a number of streams, by several small islands, which were covered with trees. At the mouth of the river there was good anchorage m five fathom water. Great plenty of oystere were procufed from a bed which had been discovered, | and they proved exceedingly good. On the 1 8th, we steered between the main and an island which seemed very fertile. Several canoes filled with Indians, came alongside, and the Indians sai]g i their war-song ; but the Endeavour's people paying | them no attention, they threw a volley of stones ; and then paddled awayj however, they presently returned their in«ults. Tupia spoke to them, making use of hill old arguments, that inevitable destruction would ensueifQ they persisteH; they answered by brandishing their wea- pons, intimating, that if the English durst cojme ashore,] they would destroy them alU Tupia still continued FIRST VOYACl. 75 in expostplaring with them, but to no purpose, and they soon gave another volley of stones; but upon a musket being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat. We cast anchor in 23 fathom \ water In the evening, and early the next morning sailed up an inlet. ^ , ,^-] On the 22d, early in tbfe morning, we njade sail, land kept plying till the flood obliged us once more to Icome to an anchor. The captain and Dr. Solander went on shore to the west, but made no observations I worth relating. After the gentlemen departed, the [ship was surrounded with canoes, which kept , Mr. [Banks on board, that he might trade with the Indians, J who bartered their arms and clothes for paper, t-akin^ \xio unfair advantages. But though they were in general honest in their dealings, one of them took a fancy to a half-minute glass, and being detected ip Secreting the same, it was resolved to give him a smatch of the cat-o*-nine»tails. The; Indians inter^ fered to stop the current of justice, but being oppose^, Ihey got their arms from the canoes, and some of the people in them attempted to get on board. Af r. Bank« and Tupia now; coining upon deck^ the Indians ap- plied to Tupia^ who informed them pf the natyre of jhe offender's intended punishment, and that he had 10 influence over Mr. Hicks, the commanding officei^. They appeared pacified, and the crimin^al recejv^^ )ot only a dozen, but afterwards a gqc^d djrtji^bii\g rom an old ma{)> who was thouglit io, ^ \\h f^h^h 7he canoes immediately went ofiF« the jtn4iaf^/$^yii;^ )ey should be afraid to return again on (t>oar4^ , \ i. On the 23d, the weather still contiim^ing ^fftr [curable, and the wind contrary, w^ k^p^ plyiog {own the river, anqhorihg between the tjjkjs, and ajt le north-west extremity of the Thame^. Npt beio^ ble to approach land, we had but a distant view of le main, for a cpurse of near thirty mile^. Xhp 3untry seemed to be thinly inh^bite^i; t^ie native;^ fe well made, strong, and active y their bo^i^eis are 2 . K painted n CAPTAIN COOK 9 m painted with re(i ochre, and their canoes, which are well constructed, were ornamented with carved work. On the 27th, we found ourselves within a mile of many small islands, laying close under the niain, at i the distance of twenty-tvvo miles from Cape Brett Here we lay about two hours, during which time several canoes came off from the islands, which we called Cavalies, the name of some fish which we pur- chased of the Indians. These people were very in- 1 soleht, using many frantic gestures, and pelting us I with'StOhes. Nor did they give over their insults, till I some stnaU shot hit one who had a stone in his hand. I ttJ^On the 29th, having weathered Cape Brett, wel "bore away to the leeward, and got into a large bay, where j we anchored on the south-west side of several island^,! and suddenly came into four fathoms and a half water.l Upon sounding, we found we had got upon a bank,! and accordingly weighed, and dropped over it, and! anchored again in ten fathoms and a half, after whichi \ire were surrounded by 33 large canoes, containingi near thr^e hundred Indians, armed. Some of theml were adhlittbd on board, and Captain Cook gaveal piece of broad cloth to one of (he chiefs, and somel small presents to' the other. They traded peaceabljB ^or some time, being terrified at (he ♦'ire-arms, witjil the ef5icts6f which they were nOt unacquainted; bull whilst the esif^tain was at dinner^ on a signal given bn Wne'OfVhe chiefs, all^ ihe Indians quitted the ship, andl atteifthptiid to tow avvay the buoy; a musket was noirl fired oveh ttidAi, but it produced no good effect } small shot wa^ then fired at them, but it did not reach theml "A n'lusket loaded with ball, was therefore orderedl >o be fir^d, and Otegoowgoow (son of one of thfl ^iefs) was Wounded in the thigh by it, whii $jf}duced^them immediately to throw the buoy overj board. The captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solanderf landed upon the island, and the Indians in the cano «oon after cime onshore; The gentlemen were ij »' small cove, ' and were presently surrounded b| flcar 400 armed Indians j but the captain, not su| pectin FIRST VOYAGE. 75 pecting any hostile design on the part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen march- ing towards them, drew a line, intimating that they I were not to pass it: they did not infringe ypon the Jboundary for some time; but at last they sang the Isong of defiance, whilst a party attempted to draw {the Endeavour's boat on bhore: these signals for an attack being immcumtely followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it itime to defend themselves, and accordingly the cap»> [tain fired his musket, loaded with small shot, which jwas seconded by Mr. Banks's discharging his piece, land two of the men followed his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they retreated, )ut were rallied again by one of the chiefs, who shouted and waved his patoo-patoo. The doctor low poinred his musket at this hero, and hit him: [his stopped his career, and he took flight with the >iher Indians. They were now at too great a dis- tance for a ball to reach them, but these operations )eing observed from the ship, she brought her broad- side to bear, and by firing ever them, soon dispersed thera. The Indians had in thic skirmish two of their )eople wounded, but none killed: peace being thus Restored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and )ther herbs; but suspecting some of the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired to a :ave at some small distance. Here they found the ;hief, who had that day received a present from the kaptain ; he came forth with his wife and brother, and jolicited their clemency. ^ In the afternoon, the English rowed to another mrt of the island, when landing, and gaining aa Iminence, they had a very agreeable and romantic jicw of a great number of small islands, well ihhabit- [d and c'lltivated. On the 15th of December, in the morning, we weighed i\nchor, but were soon becalmed, and a current setting towards the shore, we were ^riven in with such rapidity, that we expected every K 2 moment ^ V 76 ;{ CAPTAIN COOK $ moment to be run upon the breakers, which appeared above water, not more than a cable's length distance; and we were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach. We were happily relieved from this alarming situa- tion by a fresh breeze suddenly springing up from the shore. > On the 25th, we stood to the southward, ])ut had no land in sight, [and were twenty leagues to the westward of North Cape. At mid-night it blew a storm from the east, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, which compelled us to bring the ship to, un- der her main-sail. The gale continued till Thursday the 28th, when it fell about two o'clock in the morn- ing; but at eight iDcreased to a hurricane, with a prodigious sea. At noon the gale somewhat abated, but had still heavy squalls. On the 29th, we wore, and stood to the northwest. On the 31st, we tack- ed, and stood to the westward. We were now to the nearest land about three leagues, and had somewhat more than forty fathom water. CHAP. VII. The Endeavour continues her "ooy age to Queen Char- lotte* s Sound— Transactions in tJie Sound'-^A shock- ing custom of the inliabitantS'-^Thecoastof Admiralty | Bay described — The departure of the Endeavourfrom j ^Wew Zealandi and other particulars-r^An account of New Zealand, the inhabitants, i and customs. t-iimo.' JANUARY the ,1st, 1770^ we tacked and stood to thef eastward: at noon, we stood to the 'est- ward; f6urid'our lat. to be 34 deg.; 37 min* south; our distance from the Three Kings ten or ele /en leagues. On the third, we saw land ; it '^as high and flat beyond* the reach of the naked eye. ah. u On the morning of the '4th, we stood altiif jhorc. The coast appeared sartdy, barren, atid iiiiboipitable. ■ • ^ ' ' Steering 1 riRST VOYAGE. 7T iteering nonbward, on the 6th, we saw land again^ Irhich we sipposcd to be Cape Maria. We continued (teering east till the 9th, when we were off a point of ind which Captain Cook named Woody Head. On the 15lh, we steered for an inlet, it being aU lost calm, the ship was carried by a current within cable's length of the shore ; but by the assistance of le boats she got clear. At three, we anchored in a fery safe cove on the north-west side of the bay, and Inmoored in eleven fathom water. In passing the loint of the bay, we observed an armed sentinel on [uiy, who was twice relieved; and now four canoes ime off, for the purpose, as we imagined, of recon- )itring ; for none of the Indians would venture on jard, except an old man who seemed of elevated ink. His countrymen expostulated with him, laid > )ld of him, and took great pains to prevent his )ming aboard, , but they could not divert him from is purpose. We received him with the utmost ci- ' hitv. Tupia and the old man joined noses, accord- [g to the custom of the country, and having received jveral presents, he retired to his associates, who he- rn to dance and laugh. Whether their expressions joy were tokens of enra»ty or friendship, we could )t determine. Captain Cook and other gentlemen [ent on shore, where they met with a fine stream of [cellent water. On the 16th, three canoes came off with a num- ;rof Indians, who brought several of their women [ith them, which circumstance was thought to be a ^ourable presage'of their peaceable disposition; bat ley soon convinced us of our mistake, by attempt- to stop our long boat; upon which Captain Cook [d recourse to the old expedient of firing shot over ;ir headg, which intimidated them for the prer nt: ;y soon gave fresh proofs of their treacherous de- ;ns, for ope of tbcm snatched at some paper from [r market-man, and missing it*, put himself in a re*teoing aUitude ; whereupon some shot was fired, ich woutided.birti in ti»e knee; but Tupja still continued 78 CAPTAIN COOK*^ continued conversing with his companions, making enquiries concerning .heir traditions respecting the antiquities of their country. He also asked them ifl they had ever seen a ship so large as the EndeavourH they replied they had not, nor never heard that such a| vessel had been on their coast. The women, who accompanied the men in their I canoes, wore a head dress; it was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly increased their height. The captain, Mr. Banks, and the doctor, visited a cove about a mile from the ship. There was a family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of these gentlemen, all running away except one ; but upon! Tupia's conversing with him, the others returned. They found by the provisions of this family, that they were cannibals, there being several human bones that had been lately dressed and picked, anditi appeared that a short time before, six of their enemies! having fallen into their hands, they killed four, and eat them, and that the other two were drowned io| endeavouring to make their escape. On the 29th, we were visited by Topoa, in com- pany with other Indians, who behaved very civilly.l During the time the bark was preparing for sea, Mr, Banks and Dr. Solander often went on shore. CaptJ Cook also made several observations on the coast tol the north-west, and perceived many islands, formingl bays, in which there appeared good anchorage fori shipping. Returning to the ship, we met with man;| of the natives, of whom we purchased a small quan- tity offish. On the 30th, some of our people, who were sent] out early in the morning to gather celery, met wit about twenty Indians, among whom were five or sixl women, whose husbands had lately been made leap- fives. They sat down upon the ground together, and! cut many parts of their bodies in a roost shocking! manner, with shells, in testimony of their excessivel grief. But what made the horrid spectacle more ten ribleJ fIRST VOYAGE. 19 [)oa, in com- fible, was, that the male' Indians who were with hen)} paiad a strong gale from the north-west, with such heavy lowers, that our sweet little warblers on shore began suspend their wild notes, with which till now, they iad constantly serenaded us during the ^ight, affording is a pleasure not to be expressed. On the 1st of February, the gale increased to a torm, with heavy gusts from the main land, which obliged us to let go another anchor. Towards night Ihey became more ilioderate^ but the rain poured lown with such impetuosity, that itb^ brooks at our mtering-place overflowed its banks, and carried away; our loss, ten casks full of water. .. r , ; FP •> On the 5th, we got under sail, but the wind soon [ailing, we came again to anchor a little above Mp- tuara. This day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went igain on shore in search of natural curiosities, and by iccident met with a very amiable Indian family* [mong whom was a widow, and a pretty youth about ;n years of age. The woman mourned for her hus- band according to the custom of the country, with ;ars of blood. The mother and son were sitting bon mats, the rest of the family of both sexes, about (eventeen in number, sat round them. This family eemed the most intelligent of any Indians we had litherto conversed with, which made us regret our late w KJ fcO CAPTAIN cook's late acquaintance with them ; for had we fallen into their company before, we should probably have gainedl more information from them in one day, than we had been able to acquire during our whole stay upool the coast. Monday the 6th, the Endeavour sailed out of thel bay, which, from the savage custom of eating humaQl fiesh, we called- Cannibal Bay. We bent our course to an opening in the east; and when )n the moutii of the streight, were becalmed in btitude I'^O southj and 1 10 4eg. 45 min. west longitude. The land aboutl this sound, which we saw at the distance of 20 leagues/ consists entirely of high hills and deep rallies, welll stored with excellent timber fit for all purposes. The) number of inhabitants are about 400. They are poor] and their canoes without any ornaments. On our ar-l rival, they were much pleased with our paper; butl when they knew it would be spoiled by the wet, theyl would not have it. On the 17th, we weighed anchor, and a fresbl breeze with a tide of ebbi hurried us through the! streight with great swiftness. In passing it, wethoughtl It safest to keep to the north-east shorie, for on side we saw notliing to ^r. In the afternooi^ threel danoes came off, haviiig several Indians ob board.-l These made a good appearance, and there was nol difficulty in persuading them to come on board, wheal a mutual exchange , of presents took place. One old! man was tatowed in a remarkable maniier;' he hadl likewise a red streak across his nose, and his head andl beatd were very white. His garment was made oil flax. Teeth and green stones decorated his ears, aDdl We toneluded from his deportment, that he was i person of distinguished rank, and these people withj drew highly satisfied with the presents that theyt ' l-eceived. On the 9th of April, we discovered an islandl called ^lahienomauwee. About sixty Indians, iol double cftnoes came within a stone's throw of tbel ship on the 14tfa. As they surveyed her with surprise/ Tupii .FIRST VOYAGI* 81 upia endeavoured to persuade thism to c^me nearer, It ihis they could not be prevailed on to do. On is account the island was deooiTiinated the island o^ lOokers-on. sr,, ,-, % On the 4th of March, several whales arKi seals were and on the 9th, we saw a ledge of rocks, and ;n Ion. after another ledge at three leagues distance froih [e shore, which we passed in the night to the nonh- ird, and at day-break observed the others under our \ws, which was a fortunate escape; and in considera- )n of our having bet T so nearly caught among these ley were denominate . the Traps. [On the 16th, we passed a point which consisted of rh red ciiflTs, and received the name of Cascade Point, account of several small streams which fell down it. the morning of the i8th, the vallics were observed Vered with snow, as well as the nvountains, which ^med to have fallen the night before, when we had at sea. Thus we passed the whole north-west coast [Tovy Poenamoo, which had nothing worthy our ob- lation but naked and barren rocks covered with some of which we coujectured might have re- w. lined there since the creation. From this uncom- table country we determined to depart, having sailed jnd the whole country by the 27th of this mortth. Id it was now resolved by a council of war to steen [the coast of New. Holland, in the course of their irn by the way of the East Indies. )n the 31st, we took our departure from an eastern. \t of land, to which we gavethename of CapeFare- |, calling the bay out of which we sailed, Admiralty We called a bay between the island and Cape [ewel. Blind Bay, which was supposed to have been pamethat was called Murderer's Bay by Tasman, the discoverer of New Zealand; but though he named ^aten Island, thinking to take possession of it, yet, Ig attacked by the Indians, he never went on shore [ffecl his purpose. This coast, now more accurately lined, is discovered to consist of two islands. L They 82 oAtrAiir ^oK^s They are tituated between the S4th and 35th M of south latitude, and between f^l He^. and 194 df( west longitude. The northern island is called Eahier mauwee, and the southern is named Tovy Poenamoil by the natives. The former, though mountainous some places^ is stored with wood, and in every valleJ there is a rivulet. The soil in those vallies is light, bu fertile and well adapted for the plentiful production of all the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe. Tovy Poenamoo is barren and mountainous, and ap peared to be almost destitute of inhabitants. In New Zealand is only one shrub or tree, which pw duces fruit, which is a kind of berry almost tasteless; bul they have a plant which answers all the uses of hemp| and flax. This plant is found both in hif^h and loi grounds, in dry mould, and deep bogs; butasic^rov largest in the latter, that seems to be its proper soil. The natives are as large as the largest Europeantj Thetr complexion is brown, but little moresothan tht of a Spaniards The women possess not that delicac which distinguishes the European ladies; but their voio distinguishes them from the men. The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modest an reserved in their behaviour and conversation as the litest nations of Europe. The women, indeed, we not dead to the softest impressions j but their modei consent was in their idea as harmless as the consent tj marriage with us, and equally binding to the stipulate time. If any of the English addressed one of theirs men, he was informed, that the consent of her frienii must be obtained, which usually followed on his makioj 8 present. This done, he was obliged to treat his ten porary wife as delicately as we do in England. A gentleman who sailed in the Endeavour, havin addressed a family of rank, received an answer^ of whid the fallonring is an exact translation: *^ Any of the young ladies will think themselves honoured by youraif dresses^ but you must first make me a present,, andyo must then come and sleep with us on shore, for dafj Jin FIRST VOYAGE. •$ rht must by no means be a witness of what passes 'tween you." Their dress is formed of the leaves of the flag, split ic slips^ which are iiarer woven and made into a kind matiinjr, the ends, which are seven or eight inches in tngtli< hanging out on the upper side. One piece of lisiBtftting being tied over the shoulders, reaches to the leet; the olK«r piece being wrapped round the waist (jUJmost to the ground. These two pieces are fastened a strings which bv memns of a bodkin of bone, la ised throtigh, and ticks them together. The men rear the lower garment only at particular times. The ears of both sexes are bored, and the holea retched so as to admit a man's finger. The ornaments Ftheirears are feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits wood: a great many of them made use of the nails fhich were given them by the English, for this pur* )se,and the women sometimes adorned their ears with^ [hitedown oi the aibetross, which they spread before behind, the whole in a large bunch. They likewise^ ing to their ears by strings, chissels, bodkins, the teethe dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceasgd^ Hends. The arms and ancles of the women' afe^ lorned with shellsand bones, or any thiryg else through' rhich they can pass a string. We saw one v/ivn who^ the gristle of his nose perforated, and a feather issed through it, projecting over each cheek. These people shew less ingenuity in the structure of >ir houses, than in any thing else belonging to them ; < ley are 16 to 24 feet long, 10 or 42 wide, and 6 or S height. The frame is of slight sticks of wood, and je walls and roof are of dry grass, pretty firmly com- icted. The door i& only high enough to admit a' irson crawling on hands and knees. There is a square >le near the door, serving both for window and ^Mtnoey, near which is the fire place. The Indian« use axes, adzes^, and chissels, with the St they likewiiie bore holes. Their chissels arc made |f i «p€r, or the bone of a man's arm j their axes and l^dJit's of hard black s(i0oe. They^ use their small jasper L2 * tools ^&- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 11.25 l^ilM 125 |J0 ■^" MH mm ^22 I US |2.0 *■ i. IE ^i>4 ^ ?> ai& 7 Hiotogi^hic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) •7a-4S03 ,tl7; ^ Their warlike weapons are spears, darts,. battle-axes, and the piatoo-patoo. AVbether they light in boats or | oti shore, the battle is hand to hand, so that they must moke bloody work of it They trust chiefly in the p^too-patoQ,' which is fastened to their wrist, by means of a strong stfap, that It may not be wrested out of] their hands.. ;jThey have a kind of staff of disdnction, larhich is acarried by the principal warriors. It is idvmed o^ b -whale's rib, quite white, and adorned with carvings Jeatbers, and the hair of; dogs. A9 to the religion of these people, they acknow- ledge on^ Su^teme Being, .and several subordinate deities; Theirmode of worship we could not learn, nar w^as any <. place proper for that purpose seen.— ' There was indeed a small square. area, encompassed Mh\\h stones, tin. the middle of which hung a basket of feri> roots. on one of their spades. This they said wai ao Offering to their gods,' to obtain from them a plen- tiful crop of provisions. They gave the same account of the origin of the world, and. the production of mankind, as our friends at Ocahcite. Tupia, how- ever, deemed to have much more, deep and extensive kuowle^ge of tbiae subjects than any of the people of this island i atid;wben.he sometimes delivered a long diseput^^iinhe:; wias sure of a^autnerous audience, rjcot ' I. .1 ■ whQ FIRST VOYAGE. 8!» iH, ■ attle-axes, n boats or they must ^fly in the by means ted cot of lisifinction, r -> who heard .him with remarkable reverence and at- tention. . . ' * With regard to the manner of disposing of their dead, we tould form no certain opinion. Hie south-» ern district said, they disposed of their dead by throwing them into the sea. We saw, however, not the least sign ut any grave or monument ; but the body of many among the living, bore the marks .of wounds, in token of grief for the loss of their friends and relations/ / > Before we close the account of New Zealand, we beg leave to observe, that hitherto our navigation hat been very unfavourable to the supposition of a south- ern continent. The navigators' who have' supporteJK the positions upon which this is founded, areTasman^, Juan Fernahdes, Hermite, Quiros,- and Rogewin i I but the track of the £ndeavour has totally subverted I all their theoretical arguments. Upon a view of the chart it will appear, that a large space extends quite to the tropics, which has not been explored by usnor- any other navigators; yet we believe there is nO cape of any southern continent, and no southern continent to the northward of 40 deg. south. Of what may Ire iarlhef > to the southward of 40 deg. we can give no opinion ; yet are far from dfscouragingany future at- teihpts after new discoveries: for a voyage like thiv may be of public utility. Should no continent be* Ifound, new islands within the tropics may be disco- Ivered. Tupia, in a rougb chart of his own drawing,' llaid down no less than seventy-four ;' and he gave us Ian account of above one hundred- and thirty, which |no European vessel has ever yet vis ted. CHAP, i^'^f 16 CAPTAiir cook's CHAP. viir. Pat^agefrom New Zealand to Botany Bay, in Nexe Holland — Varioux incidents relat-'d'-'A description . qf the country and its inhabitants — Sails from Botany 'Bay to Trinity Bay — Her dangerous situation in her passage from Trinity Bay to Endeavour River. ON the 31st of March, 1770, we sailed from Cape Farewel,^ havhg fine weather, and a feir wind.-^ This <»pe lies in lat. 40 deg. 33 min.S. and in 196 deg. Vfi longitude. We steered west with a fresh gale till t&e 2d of Apcilt when, by observation, we found our l^litudc to be 40 deg. and our longitude from Cape Farewei f deg. 31 min. W. On the 17th, we had fresh gales, with squalls, and dark weather in the morning ; and in the afternoon a hard gale and a greet aea, which obliged ut to run under our fore* sail and misen all ni;;bt. On the 1 8th, in thi mornings we were visited byi pintado bird, an infallible sign that land was near, which we disco^'ered at six o'clock in the morning of the lt^th,fouror 6 ve leagues distant. To th^ southern- most point in sight, w« gave the name of Point Hicks. On the following day we had a distant view of the coum ry, which was in general covered with wood, and interapersed with several small lawns. It appeared to | be inhabited, as smoke was seen in several places. On i the 22d, we were so near the shore, as to see several of the inhabitants on the coast, who were of a dark com- plexion, if not perfect negroes. The tress on (hit island were both tall and large, but we saw no place | ill to give shelter, even for a boat« On the 27th, we saw several of the inhabitants walk- ing along the shor^, four of them carrying a canoe on I their shoulders, but as they did not attempt to come oir| to the ship, the captain took Messrs. Banks and Solan- der, and Tupia, in the yawl, to that part of the shorel where they saw the natives, near which four canoes lay! - close TIMT VOYAGE. it close in land. The Indians sat on the roclcs till the yaw) 511 as a quarter of a mile from the shore, and then they ran away into the woods. The surf beating vio* lenily on the beach, prevented the boat from landinji^ ; the gentlemen were therefore obliged to make whfit observations they could at a distance. They saw a great number of cabbage trees on shore. At five in the evenings they returned toihe ship, and a light breeze springing up, we sailed to the northward, where we discovered several people on shore, who, on our approach, retired to an eminence, soon after which two canoes arrived on the shore, and fouf men, who came in them, joined the others. The pinnace having been sent a head to sound, arrived near the spot where the Indians had stationed themselves, on which one of them hid himself among the rocka, near the -landing place, and the others retreated farther up the hill. The pinnace keeping along shore^ the Indians walked near in a line with her ; they were armed with long pikes^ and^ by various signs and words, invited the boat's crew to land. The ship having come to an anchor, we observed a few huts, in wliich Were some of the natives. We anchored opposite a village of about eight houses, and observed an old woman and three children conoe out of a wood ; they were met by three smaller one8» all of whom, as well as the woman, were quite naked. Having formed a design of landing, we manned the boats, and took Tupia with us, but had ho sooner come near the shore, than two men advanced, as if ta dispute our retting foot on land. They were each of them armed with different kinds of weapons. They* called out aloud, warra warra wai I the meaning of tt . Tupiadid not understand. The ca{>tain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which they took up, and seemed pleased with. He then made signals that he wanted water^ and used every possible meanatoconvince I them that no injury was intended. They made signs to the boat's crew to land, on which we put the boat in, but had no sooner done so, than the two Indians came jasain tooppoaaus, A oiM^ket was Qred between them. 81 CAPTAIN. COOK*S on the* report of which»one of them dropped a bundle of ]ance», which he immediately snatched up again in great haste. One of them threw a stone at the boat, on which the captain ordered a musket ioaded with small shot, to be fired, which wounding the eldest of them in the legs,'he retired hastily to one of the huts that stood at some little distance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received, would put an ^nd to the contest. In this, however, we were mistaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of shield, with twO'hples inr it to see through. They now advanced with great intrepidity,.and both discharged their lances, but.4id' not wound any of us. Another musket wag fired at them, on which they threw another lance, and (he:n took to their heels. , We now went up to the huts, in one of which we found the children, who had secreted themselves behind comeback. We looked at them, but left them without its being known we had seen them, and having thro^\i several pieces of cloth, ribbands, beads, and other things, iiito the hut, we took several of their lan€e$y and then re-embarked in the boat. We now sailed to the north point of the bay, and found plenty of fresh water. On taking a view of the hut where we had seen the children, we had the mortifi* cation to find that every Indian had fled, and that they had left all their presents behind them. The captain now went in the pinnace to inspect the bay, and saiv several of the natives, who all Bed as he approached them. Some of the men having been sent to get wood and water, they no sooner went on board to dinner, than the natives came down to the place, and examined the casks with great attention, but did not offer to remove them. When the people, were on shore in the afternoon, abouttwenty of the natives, all armed, advanced within a triP.ing distance of them, and then stopped, while two Qf their number approached still nearer. Mr. Hicks, the commanding ofJBceron 8h3re, went towards them, with presirnts in his hands, and eDdeavpured, by every n^ possible I^IRBT VOYAOB. •f possible tneins, to assore them of hit friendly intentions^ but t4; no purpose, for they retired before he came up I to them. ^ On the 30th, the natives came down to the huts l>e«> I fore it was light, and were repeatedly heard to shout fery loud, and soon after day-break they were seen on the beach, but quickly retired about a mile, and kindled sereral fires in tne woods. This day some of the ship^s crew being employed in cutting grass at a distance from tlie main body, while the natives pursued them, but stopping within fifty or sixty yards of them, they shotit* ed several times, and retreated to the woods. In the erening they behaved exactly in the same manner, when the captain followed them alcne and unarmed, for some time, but they still retired as he approached. On May Ist, the south point of the bay was named Sutherland Point, one of the seamen, of the name of Sutherland, having died that day, and been buried on lihore ; and more presents were left in the huts, such as llooking-glasses, combs, &c. but the former ones had not [been taken away. Making an excursion about the [country, we found it agreeably variegated with wood land lawn. The country mieht tie cultivated without [cutting down one of them. The grass grows in large ifts, almost close to each other. In this excursion, [we met with m^ny places where the inhabitants had ilept without shelter, and one man, who ran away the loment he beheld lis. More presents were left in their buts, and at their sleeping places, in hopes of producing [friendly intercourse. We saw the dung of an animal rhich feeds on grass, and traced the foot^steps of ano- ther, which had claws like a dog, and was about the lize of a wolf: also the track of a smalt animal, whose foot was like that of a mole. The woods abound with a vast variety of beautiful >ird8, among which were cockatoos, and paroquets, rhich flew in large flocks. The second lieutenant, ir. Gore, having been wkh a boat in order to drudge For oysters, saw some Indians, vvho made signs for him to come oo sherc» which he declined : having ^nisbed 3 M bif 90 CAPTAIN COOK 8 bis business, he sent the boat away, and went by land I with a midshipman, to join the party that was gcftting water. In their way, they met with more than twenty of the natives, who followed them so close as to come I within a few yards of them ; Mr. Gore stopped, and faced them, on which the Indians stopped also; and when he proceeded again, they followed him ; but they did not attack him, though thev had each man a lance. The Indians coming in sight oi the water casks, stood at the distance of a quarter of a mile, while :Mr. Gore jind his companions reached their shipmates in safety. Three of the waterers now advanced towards the In- dians, but observing they did not retire, they very im- prudently turned about, and retreated hastily : this ap- 'parent sign of cowardice inspired the savages, who dis* charged four of their lances at the fugitives, which fly. ing beyond them, they escaped unhurt. At this instant the captain came up with Messrs. Banks and SolanderJ and Tupia advancing, made signs of friendship ; buti the natives would not stay their coming up to them. On the following day, they went again on shorej where many plants were collect by Dr. Solander, andl Mr. Banks. They saw several parties of the IndiansJ who all ran a vay on their approach. Tupia havinn learnt to shoot, frequently staid alone to shoot parrotsj and ^be Indians constiantiy fled away from him with ai| .much precipitation as from the English. On the 3^ fourteen or.^fteen Indians, in the same number of cii*| noes, werie engaged in striking fish within half a niil(| of the vattf,ing-pl»ce. The captain landing on shore, found several ofthel Indians (Walking about, who imme^diately retreated tol their canoes, and rowed off. They went up the couft| try, where they found the',.soU to be a black m'ould ;which appeared to be calcuTated for the production ^any kind ol; graip. .They saw some, of the finest me d^wjj^th^t were ever beheld; and met .with a few rocky] ^.Bf;es, the 9tpne of which i^sandy. and seamed to admirably adapted for buildin|^. In the w.oods, lh« 'foi^id a tree bearing cherries, if shapc^aAd'OokturH i:r. i', enlitli FIRST VOYAGE. 91 as ff«tinffB«"*'^^^ ^^^^ *^ *^** name, the juice of which was an twcntTB^S'^^^^^^y ^"'* They now returned to their boat, and seeing a Bre at a distance, rowed towards it ; but the Indians fled at their coming near them. On the 6th of May, we sailed from Botany Bay, and at noon were off a harbour, which was called' Port Jackson, and in the evening near a bay, to which Iwe gave the name of Broken Bay. Thd next day, at lOon, the northernmost land in sight, projecting so as justify the calling it Cape Three Points. On the Ith, we passed a rocky point which was named Point tephens. Next day saw smoke in several places on lore, and in the evening discovered three remarkable ligh hills, which the captain named the Three Bro* jhers. They lie in latitude 3 1 deg. 40 min. and 'may leseen 14 leagues from the shore. On the Idthi in the morning, by the assistance of ir glasses, we discerned about a score of Indians, each; jded with a bundle, which we imajjined to be palm' saves for covering their bouses. We traced them )r more than an hour, during which time they took iotthe least notice of the ship^ at length they left le beach, and were lost behind a htil, which they lined by a gentle ascent* At noon, in Tat. 28 deg. |7 min. 30 sec. south, and in 206 deg. SO min. west mgitude, the captain discovered a high point of ]and» id named it Cape Byron. '/' . On the 18th, in the morning, we descried Appoint so [nequal, that it looked like two small islands under le land, and was therefore called Double Island loint. At noon, by help of glasses, discovered some inds, which lay in patches of several acres. We ^rved they were moveable, and that they had not !n lotig in their present situation ; for we saw trees klf buried, and the tops of others still green. At is time two beautiful water-snakes swam by the |ip, in every respect resembling land-snakes, except at their tails were flat and broad, probably to serve Sminstead of fins in swimming. M2 On ,s to come >ped, and also; and 1 ; but they m a lance. ksks, stood ;Mr. Gore 1 in safety, ds the In- y very ira- y : this ap. s, who dis> which fly. this instant d Solander, dship; but I to them, ^•on shorC) ander, and ie Indians, ipia having loot parrots, lim withai On the 3 nber of ca* half a miki • < 'i; ftd cArTAiit cook's On the 22d, at 8*fx in the morning, by help of our glasses, when a-'breast of the ioi»th point of a larM pay, in which the captain intended to anchor^ we dis* covered th^t the lai[id was covered with palm nut trees, none of which we had seen since we quitted ^e islands within the tropic. On the 23d. early* in i ^e looming, Captain Cook, attended by several geo* tlemen, ana Tupia, wont on shore to examine tbt couiitry. The wind blew so fresh, and we found it spcol^y that being at some distance from the shorej we took with m our cloaks. We landed a little within the pqift^of ^ bay, whi<;h led into a large lagoon, b uip side of which grows the true mangrove, auch as a ^9^^ inthf Wesit lndlei» as it does also on some bo|i, afid jBwajtiPps of lailt wfler which we discovered. I On the 24th, we msde sail out of the bay, and on t)>e4ay/allQwipg wer9 a^breast of a point, which Ix* ing imj:f^if4^\t\^ upder tbe tropic, the captain namcdl (Js^pis Capr'M^oiaj on the ^veit sidti we saw ttiamafr in^ Dumber of large birds, fes6inbliB|^ the pielic8ii,| some! of .jfvbich were near five fecc high. We as*! ci]QTe4j ip i^w^lve fathom water, having the maioi }^ai , ^ndrh^rren islailiiJliS.liU round us. ii^ ibe ^^tK we stood between the range of alroottl b4tr(^i,,if)i^Qd|s.and the main laad« whidi fl^>peareii| tnf^^f}^^Hl^$. We had liiere very shallow water, aodj anchored in sixteen feet, which was not more tl the 9hfp |dfew* Mr. ^nks trii^ to Jsh from the cabio| wijiji^,wf>rteijit tb», water was t<» shallow. The groud ii^f^ w^4S;Q(V|!rfd:wUh ^fi$hs, vhich greedily scizfli the lii^jlji , aii4 held jinipW the^r were above wstetj Ti^e cjr^ \vieBe pf tw^ lcio4cHone of a very 6ne )^i with ^r.^hiteib^Uy,: 9f)d tihie oihAf marked with iplii cin the ioiiits# and th^ee brQW» «pot« on ike back. J On JuQ^tbe IsU we got under m\, laod qur Ist. obprvatfCM^ was 21 deg. 99 mink south* We hi quite <^epe|( the western, iplot^ which ;wce havedii trngiiisbsd by the ^i^e of Brietd Sounds At ei^ r the evening we anchofe^ aia ic4ovieRifalhoitt» with s^ody bottom^ about two le^gus'i& from the main lanll yiRtT VOYA6S. 9$ On tlie 3d> we got uiKler sail, ai>d discovcMcl a point of iindi wdich we called Cape Conway. Tho land about Cape Conway Ciorms a most beautiful landscape, being diversified with hills and dales. By the help of our glasaes we discovered two Baen and a wonoao on the island, and a canoe, with an outrigger like those of Otaheite. On the 8th, we stood away for the northernmoit point in sight, to which we gfive the name of Point Hillock. At six in the evening w« w(SKe abreast qf % point of land, which w^ nan>ed Cape Sandwich. We i|ow ranged north ward along the shore, towardsa dusteR of islands, ouone of which were 40 or $0 men» ^ofnf<| sod children, ata^idiog together, all stark f)ake4, an4 ibokingac the ship wuh a curiosity never obaevvedr among these people before. At noon, our lat. ky o^ wrvatiion, was 17 deg. 09 onin. and wve were a^^ref^off tbf north point of RQckinghafn 3ey* Thiis bouDd^ry pf the buy is Cormed by an island of consldefabW^ height^ Drhich w^ distinguished by the name of Dunk Isle» rp: Sufiday the lOtb,. was remarkals^e for tV daogeroui; silQation oif the Endeavour. As noaocident remaiikabljr upfortunate Mi befallen tis, during n navigation ot n^9\ than 1^00 miles, upon a eoast. every wlMreab^iH^Ing: with th* most dangerous rocks and shoals, no name q£ (li9tKss had htiberto been given to any cap« or point of land which we had seen. But we now gn^^e tbe name of Cape Tribulalio«, to a point we had just seen fF^r^r tliest to the northward, because here wfr became 90^ quslnted with misfortune. The cape lies in let. \§ dsg. 6 min. S. and 214 deg. 31 min. W. longitude. At si^ in the evening we shortened ^ail, and hauled offcloseuponawind,to avoid the danger of some rocki whifth were seen a-head, ai>d toobserve whether there were any island^ in the offing, as we were near the lat* of those ifiisEinds said to have b«en discovered by Quifos* ,^e had gut into 21 fethom water, Wib^n suddenly we Ifellkito 12, IQ, and 8 fathom, in a fow minutes. Bvcry man wtt inslaotljr ordered to his station, and weit vipoa tho point of anchoring, when on ft 9(tdden, 1 we 1^ 4( CAPTAIN cook's we had vgkm deep water, so that we thought all danger at an €na, concluding that we had wiled over the tail of some shoals. We had 2 1 fathoms and upwards be- fore ten o'clock, and this depth continuing some time, the gentlemen, who had hitherto been upon duty, re* tired to TC't I but in less khan an hour, the water shaU lowed at once from 20 to 17 fathoms, and before sound- ings could be taken, the ship struck upon a rock, and remained immovable; Every one #a's mstantJy on deck, with countenances fully expressive of the horrors of our siti/aiion. Knowing we were not near shore, we con« eluded that we were upon a rock of coral, the points of which are sharp, and the surface So rough, as to grind awav whatever it nibbed against, even with the gentlest motiM. Alt the sails being immediately taken in, arid our'boatshoistedout^ we found thjit the ship had been lifted over the ledge of a rock, and* lay in a hollow within it. Finding the water was deepest astern, vit cat^ried out the anchor from the starboard quarter, and applied our Whole force to the capstan, in hopes to get the Vessel off, but invain. She beat «» violently agaihst tbb' rock, that the <:f«w could scarcely stand on their tegSw^' 'Ottrb^st chance of escaping seemed now to be byJtgfirtlm0 aboire five or six minutes at a Time, and then threw themselves, quite spent, on the deck, amidst a stream of water which came from the {Mimps. Be tween the inside lining of the ship's bottom, and the, outside planking, there is a space of about 17 inches. The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther than the ceiling, but being now relieved by another person, who took the depth of the outside plank, it appeared by this mistake, that the leak had suddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference {between the two planks. This cir. I cumstance deprived us of all hopes, and scarce any one thought it worth while to labour :. but the mistake was ^o,on discovered ; and the joy arising from such unex* pected good news, inspired the men with so much] vigour, that before eight in the morning, they had pumped out considerably more water than they had shipped. We ndw talked of nothing but getting the ship into some harbour, and set heartily to work to get in the anchors ; one of which, and the cable of another,! we lost i but these were now considered as trifles. HavinH a good breeze from sea, we got under sail at elereiil o'clock, and steered for l9nd. As we could not dificoverj the exact situation of the leak, we had no prospectofl stopping it within-side of the vessel; out on the 12tb,j the following expedient, which one of themidshipmeiij had formerly seen tried with success, was adopted. We ^ook an old studding sail, and having mixed a lar^el quantity of oakum and wool, chopped small, it w»l sritcfied dowh in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as pos'l sible, the dung of sheep, and other filth being spread ov^r it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under ttxl ship by ropes, which kept it extended till itcam^ undttl tH<: leak, when the suction carried in t e oakum andl wool from the surface of the sail. This dXp^rrnw iucceeded so wen, that instead of three ptittpf, (h water was easily kept under with one. We had hitherto no farther view than to ran t* ihip into some harbour, and build avessel fro«i hen terials, in wbiqh wemight reach i^ East Indies; ni^BT VOYAGE. f/t we now began to think of finding a proper place to repair her damage, and th^hptir^e our voyage on its joriginal plan. At six in the evening, we anchored l^^en leiAgues fVdfti tt)li $hni^, ind foond \)nit f^% sh\^ m^t 15 intfres WdteV ah hbut duting tfti^ ni^ht $ b\jt as the jJtirhpSf could d^r thii qtiantiry, W% Vi^el^ itot on(^as)r. Iti th6 moi-rtirig #te pAssfed t^o i^^ds-, ahd Icalied them Hopte I^lahd^, b6cads!e the re^cKingVof |tbem had been the object of Or wishes. In the after- oon, the i^a^ter Wdif sentobt in a' boat, to souhd^ inBi irch for an harbour whfefet'hfe ship ttiightbfe i'epfai?ed; Ittd we anchbred at sun^set, ih folir fiihonlS* #ater,' iree tnilfetf from the ihore. Ont of th^ matfes b^'ng irtt but In thfe pinnate^ r^tbrntfd at nine cl*clbfckj rt- Mtitigv thar he hdd foUnd ^ubh an HarbOiTr tfs w^tf* [Wanted, at the diittante of two l^dguts. On the mh.atsix o'clock^ #c sailed, h^vttt]^ p^e-" f'^uii'y seirtr the boa¥ a-hbjid to point out th^ shokW |that we saw in'Oiif Way. We sOOrt anchored abbuf * lile from the ihotH, When t\v& captain i^erttOiir, 'afnd jllnd the channel very narrow biit the harbolir bett*? ^d«pt6d to oer present pbrpo^, than iriy jilade Wd ^ Md «een in thie Course of the voyagW. AS it bleW pry fresh thi^ day, We cotild.nOt vehtur'e to riin i^td \t harbour, but remained at anchot- the t#b stiib- [iSeding daysfi in thb Cbttrse of which We obsdrv'ed 6iki Indi^n^ oii^ the hil^s, who stb]}ped arid madd irefe firesf. Our men, by this timt, b^an tb b6 afflicted WitH le scurvy; and our Indian friend Tupia, wds so ill mh rr, th^t he had iWid' ^puts on both li^gs^. "the rM continued fresh till the I7tbv and then We re-; lived to' pi)igh ih for the harbour, ^hdtWice ran theshipf l^oiind^ the second time she ^tuck laist^ on which wi )k down th« boonis, fore-yird, and fori top- mast's^ lild made a raft on one side of the ship ; and as thiei jidt happened to be rising, she floated at Ohe 6'clb6k; ^e soon got her into the harbOtfr, wl^re she was Moored alotig the side of a beach, and the anchor^, ibtes,8ta. m^ imiiiedial^l]^ tilken out of h^t 3 N CHAP. 98 CAPTAIN «00K 8 CHAP. IX. Tlie shipr^fitted''^Transactwns during that time — Tht\ country and its inhabitants described^-The rangtl Jrom Endeavour River to the extremity of the counA iry^^Thc Endeavour departs from South Wales— \ That country and people described, ON the t8th in the morning, we erected a tent for the sick, who were brought on shore as soon m\ it was ready for their reception. We liicewise buiit a stage from the ship to the shore, and set up a tent to hold the provisions and stores that were land- ed the same day. The boat was now dispatched in search of fi^ for the refreshmnt of the sick, but she returned without getting any ; but Tupia employed himself in angling, and lived entirely upon what he| caught, and recovered his health very fast. On the 19th, the smith's forge was set up, and tbel armourer prepared the necessary iron-work for the! repair of the vessel. The officers' stores, ballast, wa-l ter, &c. were likewise Ordered our, in order to lighteil the ship. On the 20th, as we were removing thil coals, the water rushed in, near the fore-mast, abouti three feet from the keel ; so that it was resolved tft| clear the hold entirely; which being done on the 22d we warped the ship higher up the harbour, to station more proper for laying her ashore, in order ti^ stop the leak. Early in the morning, the tide having left her, w(| proceeded to examine the leak, when it appeared tt the rocks had cut through four planks into the tii bers, and that three other planks were dafinaged. la these breaches not a splinter was to be seen, the whoii being smooth as if cut away by an instrument: but it was the will of an Omnipotent Being, that tli vessel should be preserved by a very singular circui stance: for though one of the holes was large enoog to have sunk her, even with eight pumps constanti] Jtl • k 4 :ted a tent for FIRST VOYAGB. 99 It work, yet this inlet to our destruction was partly lopped up, by a fragment of the rock being left ^ticking therein. We found likewise some pieces of nakum, wood, &c. had got between the timbers, [nd stopped those parts of the leak, that the stone had (ft open. Exclusive of the leak, great damage was lone to various parts of the ship's bottom. While (he smiths were employed in making nails and bolts, [he carpenters began to work on the vessel ; and )me of the people were sent on the other side of the kver to shoot birds for the sick. They found a stream V fresh water, and several of the inhabitants of the sland. On the 24ih, Mr. Gore and a party of men that Bt out with him, procured a bunch or two of wild plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refresh- lent of the sick : the repairs of the ship on the star* )ard side having been finished the preceding day; le carpenters now begsin to work under her larboard, )w; and being examined abaft, it appeared she! d received very little injury in that quartet. On e26th, the carpenter was engaged in caulking the ip,and the men in other necessary business j and on le 27th, the armourer continuea to work at the ge, and the carpenter on the ship, while the caps' in made several hauls with the large iiet, and caughf ich a quantity, that two pounds and half were dis- pbuted to each mah ; and plenty of greens had been hered, which when boiled with pease, made an cellent mess. On th« 1st of July, all the crew had permission to on shore, except one from each mess. Some of r people who went up the country gave an account their having seen several animals, and a fire about mile up the river. On the 3d, the master, who had en sent in the pinnace, returned, and reported. At he had found a passage out at sea, between shoals- hich consisted of coral rocki| many whereof were y at low water^ N 2 He \99 «A»Tf ^.^ cqo^'s .. ]3i5 fQun^ «),c)cl9s so l^r^re, th^^t oi^e of ihcm \y^| Ojpre tUh sufficienr U^t t,V!(o men ; ljk^.||ris^ P^^nty pf XjMje^, leaving SQfrie^g^s by a fire fqr drfssini thep^J This day ^9 fji^de arwther a^^erppt to float the ship, apid happily wcc^^j^qd at l^igh .^,ater j yrhen w.c found tJi^'t by the posi^jon ^fie l^^d ^(d- in, ofJ,e ^f her pl^rj^ ^^?»PTM?|g. §0 \m? yy»s a^^in nec^s^ary to Jay her ^m^' An ^|>!«fi»P'' swam ^)^ h^r ^cy<:r^l ti^e$ ,( ^ W ednes3ay the 4tb, was employed iii trimminghQfl ^M ?n.Jthe Ji^\mPp,9 ^as.^a^n Hqa^ed^apa moored ^.tii? I^^ch^, ^n ^^der to rwtv^ ^h? ^tore^ l)Q^ril ne a h^fi^\reG.^ The ^p.d Vf.a> JW^i and cpij^red MfUli over thcf* long thick grass, which inrQn[iq[?Qd.ed t dog in ,if^i B^ing. fit Vt(i^ 9!?94: Pt^iers of the ci;cw iiow ^pr. ipg on snore, the ^(n^^i^^s seamed ieaipus, left tbejr sboijid g£t b&t^ei^n' thefn and their ^rnjs ; but cs^re was taken tQ ppnyip^e tnepp ^t no s;pcl> tj^ing vifa» ^ipt<;nded, apd niiore trifles were prpsei|t<;d to th^^j. I|he crevif ^t^id y.i,{b ^beni till, dinner time, and thppi nj^dff' si|[ps pf if^vit^tipn for thetp to g^o tp the ship^ |apdeati l^ut ^hj^ they de(jlinpp» an^ ce^'redJp theji^ canoe. ' ~ They ^en wef^ pf l;h|?^p^!?im9y. stafHr^> with v^ry IsnwlJ lifnl?si tbeir coipi^les^iojp w^. pf a ^eep chof:9- l^^i?, ^^^u: bair b^V^ either l^nk or curled, but'iioX ! of tb)?JW09|^ly If^ndi, tljie breiists ^nd upper Ijppf pne I cjf th^rii ^yere pailit^d, wJ,tb.8j;rMks of v^hite/vs^lf^i^ T03 CAPTAIN COOK^« red. Their teeth t^ere white and even, their eyes bright, and their features rather pleasing ; their voices tnusica], ^nd they repeated several English words with great readiness. . The next morning, the visit of three of these In- dians was renewed, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they called Yaparico, who appeared to be a person of some consequence. The bone of a birdf about six inches long, was thrust through his nose. These people being all naked, the captain gave one of them an old shirt, which he bound round his head Hlce a turban. They brought a Hsh to the ship, which was supposed to be in paytnent for that given them the day before: after staying some time with ap- parent satisfaction, they suddenly leaped into their ca- noe, and rowed off, from a jealousy of some pf the gentlemen, who were examining it. On the 12th, three Indians visited Tupia's tent, and after remaining some time, went for two others, whom they introduced byname. Some fish was of- fered them, but they seemed not much to rega.d it; after eating a little thejjr gave the rest to Mr. Bank's dog. On the 14th, Mr. Gore shot one of the animals above-mentioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighibg more than 38 pounds, but when they are full grown, they are as large as a sheep. The skin of this beast, which is Called the Kangaroo, is covered with short fur,and is of a dark mouse-colour ; the head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare : this ani- mal was dressed for dinner, and proved to be fine eating. The ship's crew fed on turtle almost every day, finer than those eaten in England, owing to their bemg killed before their natural fat was wasted, and their juices changed. On the nth, Mr. Bs^nks and Dr. Solander went with the^aptain into the woods, and saw four Indi- ans in a canoe, who went on shore, and walked up without sign of fear. They accepted some beads, and departed, intimating that they did not choose to be followed. The natives being now become fami- lial FIRST VOYAOF. 101 liar with the ship's crew^, one of them was des'red to throw his lance ; which he did with such dexterity and ifTce, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the highest, it penetrated deeply.into a tree at the distance of fifty yards. The natives now came on board the ship, and were well pleased with their entertainment. On the 19th, we saw several of the wonnen, who as well as the men, were quite naked. We were this day visited by ten Indians, who seemed resolved to have one of the turtles that was on board, which they rapeatedly made signs for, and being as repeatedly refused, they expressed the utmost rage and resentment : one of them in particular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he stamped, and pushed him away in a mosfc violent manner. At length they laid hands Ion two of the turtles, and drew them to the side of the ship where the canoe lay, but the sailors took them away. They made several similar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful, they leaped suddenly into their canoe, and rowed off. At this instant, the captain, with Mr. Banks, and five of the seameujc jwent on shore, where many of the crew were em— loyed. One of the Indians snatched a firebrand om under a pitch-kettle, and running to the wind- ard of what effects were left on shore, set fire to the rass, which burned rapidly, scorched a pig to death,^ urned a part of the smith's forge, and would have estroyed a tent of Mr. Banks's, but some peoplq amefrom the ship just time enough to get it^ out of he way of the flames. In the mean while, the Indi- ns went to a place where the fishing nets lay, and a uantity of linen was laid out- to dry, and there again et fire to the grass, in spite of all persuasion, «nd ven threats. A musket loaded with small shot, was red, and one of them being wounded, they ran away, nd this second fire was extinguished : but the, other urned far into the woods. The Indians still continuing in sight, a musket was, iredwith ball, the report only of which sent them oitt Id4 capYain cobkl eat df lights Mi ih6\)[ ^6\c€i befiti^ he^d lA m Woadi, ihe e^lptaih, with a fe\^ fiii^opie, \Miint tb tncki th«hi. Both parties stopped Wft^'n iii srghl of eacli 6tli^^ ; it vthrch tfih« an old Iridiari ad^^knciid, and di^bRe aloud to hts'comp^nidite, t^fidplab^d their Itlnces gainst a tre^, and cdihie fbi'tirafd ifi a'fViei^dly i^iiner. Ty hen they came up to us, we retufnbd Xh6 A'iiM wi l^iii takeii, ahd pierceited with ^reat sattsficHop. that {Mb rendeidd the reconciliAtrbii cbtTi|!t1ef^. Hiv\^ tctcW^A from us som^ trinkets, they ^alk^d' diiisica'bly tbvrards th^ coast, intimating bysignfs, thdt ^hey wbuJd | hot ^fc thb ^rasis agHin. i • Oh the 26th, diir ihip Btrng reidf fbt^ s^a, tht| A^t«tv(ras s j Vour's having coasted more than 2000 miles j even if| her tract were reduced to a straight line. Northward ofihelat. of 33 dcg. the country is hilly, yet noij mountainous ; but to the south of that lat. it is mostiy low and c^'cn ground. The hills in general are diver- wfied by lawns and woods, and mimy of the vallicj| abound with herbage, though, on the whole, it can. not be deemed a fertile country. CHAP. X. 'The Endeavour "Continues her voi/agefrom South Wala\ io New Guiney — An account, of incidents upon lani\ ing there — Proceeds from Neiv Guiney to the islanA Savau — Its products and inhabitants — Run from SaA %}au to Batavia — Transactions while the Endeavoufx was ratting at this place. ON the 23d of August, 1770, after heaving Boobjr Island, we had light airs till five o'clock, wheiil k tell calm, and we came to an anchor in eight fathonl water, with a soft sandy bottom. On the 24th, sooit| after the anchor -was weighed, we got under sail steer. ing N. W. and in a few hours one of the boats a-headl made the signal for shoakwater. Wc instantly broughtl the ship to, wiih all her sails standing : .and a survefl lleing taken of the sea around her, it was found thatl s^e had met with another narrovv escape, as she wJ almost encotnpassed with shoals, and she must have] struck before the boat's crew had made the signal, ' ^e had been half the length of a cable on either sidcj In the afternoon, we made sail with the ebb-tide, ar got out of danger before sun-set, and brought to foi that night. On the 26th, it was the captain'^i intention tostee K. W. but having met with those shoals* altered oui| (bourse, and soon got into deep water. On the 2H\ pursue' FIRST VOYAGE. u\ pursued our voyage, shortening; sail at nl^trt, an^ tack'mP: lill da;y-break of the 28th, when we steered I due N. in search of New Gtiin:ey. At this time our ifet. by observation, was 8 deg. 52 min. S. We here I observed many parts of the sea covered with a kind of scum, to which our sailors gave the name o£ spawn. Land having been this day discovered from the Imast-hcad, we stood off and on all night, and at day- break sailed towards it with a brisk gale. Between^ six and seven in the morning we had sight of a small |]ow island, at about a league from the main, in lat., |90d*g* 13 siin. S. and in long. 221 deg. 25 min. W.. land it had already been distinguished by the name of iBartholomeiv and Whermoysen. It appeared a very svel isUnd» clothed with trees. The bo&ts were sent )Ut to sound, the water being shallow ; bui as the shi[> jn sailing two leagues, had found no increase in its lopth, signals were made for the boats to return on }oard. We then stood out to sea till midnight, tack- :d, and stood in for morning. Qn the 30th, when about four leagues distant, we sight of it, and its appefiance was still flat and doody. We now held a norihward course, scarcely nthin sigiht of lUnd, and as the water was just deep. lOUgh to navigate the vessel, many unsuccessful atr- l^mpts were made to bring her near enough to get on icre : it was therefore determined to land' in otae of )e boats, while the ship; kept plying off and on. la )nsequenGe of this resolution, On September the 3d, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, |nd Dr. Solander, attended by ihe boat's crew, and ^Ir. Banks's servant, set off from> the ship in the pin- :e, being; irti all twelve persons, well armed. We )wed directly to the shore, buc when come'withiri yards of it, found the water so shallow, that we ^er<» obliged to leave the boat in care of the sailors, wade* to land. We had no sooner reached the lore^ than we saw several prints of human feet on ^esand, below high water mark, from whence it was mmm / 112 CAPTAIK COOK S was evident that the natives had been there- We walked by the side of a wood, and came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, not far from which was a shed or hut, which had been covered with leaves, and near it lay a number of fresh shells of the fruit. Havin« now advanced a quarterof a mile from the boat, three In- dians rushed out of thevvoodwith a hideous shout, at about the distance of 100 yards, and .as they ran towards us, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flew on one side of him, and burnt ex- actly like gunpowder, but Puade no report j and the others threw their lances at us. No time was to be lost J we discharged our pieces, loaded with small shot only, which we imagine they did not feel, for without i retreating, they cast a third dart: we iherefore loaded i with ball, and fired a second time. It is probable some of them were wounded, as they all took to their | heels immediately. We improved this interval, in which the destrucJ tion of the natives was no longer necessary to our de. fence, and with all expedition returned to our boat.— In the way we perceived signals on board, and more Indians were coming down in a body; and before we got into the water, we perceived several ot them coming round a point at the distance of about 500 yards.- When they saw us, they halted, and seemedl to wait till the main body should join them. Theyj continued in this station, without giving us any in- terruption, while we entered the water, and waded] toward the boat. We now took a view of them atj our leisure. They made much the same appearancel as the New Hollanders, being nearly of the samel stature, and having iheir hair short cropped. Then were also, like them, sta . naked. During this timel they were shouting at a distance, and 'stting off theifl fire, which seemed^to be discharged by a short piece! of stick, probably a hollow cane ; this being svt^nn sideways, produced fire and smoke like that occasion*! ed by a musket. The crew on board the ship sawj 4^is strange a|>pearance4 and thought that the native had pTRST VOYAGE. lis .id fire*arins. Those who went out in tKe boat, and [owed a-breast of them» fired some muskets above their leads, the balls of which being heard by the natives rattling among the trees, they retired very deliberately, ind our people in the boat returned to the ship. This )lacc is in lat. 6 deg. 15 min. S, September the 3d, we made sail to the westward, ^cing resolved to spend no more time upon this coast ; )ut before we got under sail, some of the officers strongly irged the captain to send a party of men on shore, to fut down the cocoa-nut trees, for the sake of the fruit, 'his the captain, with equal wisdom and humanity^ |)eremptorily refused, as unjust and cruel $ sensible that le poor Indians, who could not brook even theland- ig of a ssnall party on their coast, would have made a (igorous effort to defend their property had it been in- laded ; consequently many must have fallen a sacrfice [n their side, and perhaps some of our own people-^ I should, (says Captain Cook) have regretted the ne- lessity of such a measure, if I had been in want of the lecessaries of life ; and certainly it would haAe been lighly criminal when nothing was to be obtained but vo or three hundred green cocoa-nuts;, which would [most procure iis mere transient grati^cation. I might ideed have proceeded farther along the coast to the |orthward, or westward, in search of a place where the lip might have lain so near the shore, as to cover the *ople with her g\ins when they landed ; but this would ive obviated only part of the mischief, and though it light have secured us, it would probably in the very Lt have been fatal to the natives. Besides, we had iason to think that before^such a placecould have been jund, we should have been carried so far to the west- lard as to have been obliged to go to Batavia, which las another reason for making the best of our way to lat place, especially as no discoveries could be ex- acted in seas which had been already navigated, and Ihere every coast had been laid down by the Dutch Wraphers.** Is p. , Qo Wilp 114 CAVTAIN COOrV Oti the 8tb, we passed two small islands, on One q|| which Captain Cook would hav'e landed, but havinJ ohly ten fathom of water, the ground being also rockJ dnd the wind blowing fresh, we might have endangerJ ed the Safety of the ship. We now sailed at a modej r^te rate till the next morning at three o'clock ; after! which we had no ground with 120 fathoms. Beforel noon we had sight of land, which was conjectured tt[ be either the Arrou Islands, or Timor Laoet. We wen now in lat. 9 deg. 37 min. S. and in long. 233. degj 64 rain. W. AVe stood off and on during the nightj anci on the 12th, we saw » number of fires and smok m several places, From whence it was conjectured ths . the place was well peopled. ^The land and sea breez being very slight, we continued in sight of the islan fo^ two days, when it was observed that the hills reacli ed iq many places quite to the sea coast, and wheti that was not the case, th^re were large and nob groves of cocoa-nut trees, which ran about a mile u|| ' the country, at which distance, great numbers of hous and plantations were se^n ; the plantations were su rounded with, fences, and extended nearly to the sun mits of the niost lofty hills; yetf neither the nativ nor cattle were seen on. any of tbem, which thought a very extraordinary circumstance. Oh the l tained in great abundance. He saw several of the prinJ cipal inhabitants of the island, who had chains of about their necks, and wore fine linen. The word! . Portuguese being frequently repeated by the Indians It was conjectured that some natives of Portugal were in the island, and one of the boat's crew being of that kingdom, he spoke to the islanders in his own iangua^rj but soon found that they had only learned a few words, of which they did not know the meaning. While the natives were endeavouring to represent the situation the town near the harbour, one of them, in order to| be more particular in directions, informed the English, that they would see something which he endeavouredjtol describe by placing his fingers across each other ; and the Portuguese sailor took it for granted, that he couM mean nothing but across. When the boa»:*s crew were on the point , of returning to the ship, the gentlemaoj who had been seen on horseback in the dress of Euro[ came down fo the beach ^ but the lieutenant didm think it proper to holda conference with him, because he had left bis commission on board the ship. When the ship had entered the bay in the evening according to the directions received, an Indian town vas seen at a distance ; upon which a jack was hoisted| on the for6-top mast head; presently afterwards th guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoisted in tl town; the ship, however, held on her way\ and cai to -?n anchor at seven in the evening. The colours irig seen hoisted on the beach the next morning, ttii • capiaii FIRST VOYAGE. ii7 csptain concluded that the Dutch had a settlement On the island 3 they therefore dispatched the second lieu* tenant to acquaint the governor, or other principal re- sident, who thevw^re, and that theship had put in for necessary refreshment. The lieutenant having landed, },e was received by a kind of guard of s6mething more than twenty Indians, armed with muskets, who, after thev had taken downiheir colours from the beach, pro- ceeded without the least military order; and thus es« cortcd him to the town, where the colours had bee^ hoisted the preceding evening. The lieutenant was now conducted to the Raja, or king of the island, to kvhom, by means of a Portuguese interpreter, he made known his business. The R«»ja said, he was ready- to supply the ship with the necessary refreshments, "but that he could not trade with any other people than the Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having first obtained their consent; he added, however, that he would make application to the Dutch agent, who was the only white man among them. To thisagent, [whose name was Lange, and who proved to be the Iperson seen from theship in the European dress, aletter was dispatched, and in a few hours he came to [the town, behaved politely to the lieutenant, and told Ihim he might buy what he thought proper of the inha- jbitants of the island. This offer being freely made, and readily accepted, the Raja and Mr. Lange intimated their wishes to go on board the ship, and that two of the boat's crew might be left as hostages for their safe return. The lieutenant gratified them in both these requests, and .took them on board just before dinner ras served. It was thbught that they would have sat iown without ceremony, but now the Raja intimated lis doubts, whether, being a black, they would permit lim to sit down with them. The politeness of the offi- srs soon removed his scruples, and the greatest good mmour and festivity pirevailed among them. A8l>r^ ' >lander and another gentleman on board, were tble^ft« )le proficients in Dutch, they acted as interpeters be- [ween Mr. Lange and the officers, while isome of the tailoi> 11$ CAPTAIN eOOK*6 ffAilors, who understood Portuguese, conversed with such of the Raja's attendants as i^spoke that language, Our dinner consisted chieiiy of mutton, which, when the Raja had tasted, he requested of us an English sheep, and'the only one we had left was presented him. Our complaisance in this particular, encouraged the king to ask for an English dog, and Mr. Banks politely l^ave him his greyhound. A spying-glass was also put into his hand, Mr. Johan Christopher Lange having intioaated that such a present would be very acceptable. Our visitors now informed us that the island abounded with buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of which should be driven down to the shore th^ next day. This put us all in high spirits, and the liquor circulated ra< iher faster than either the Indians or the Saxon could bear; but they had, however, the resolucion^to express | a desire to depart, before they were quite intoxicated. When they osLtnt upon deck, they were received in the] same manner as ^en they came aboard, by the ma- rines under arms; and the Raja expressing a desire to I •ee them exercise, his curiosity was gratified. Theyl fifed thfee rounds. The king observedthemwith great tHention, and appeared much surprised at the regula- rity and expedition of the manoeuvres. They were I dismissed with many presents, and on their departure,! irtre aaluted with nine guns. Our gentlemen, on their arrival at the town, tasted] their palm wtne» which was the fresh juice of the treed unfermented. It had a sweet, but not disagreeable | taste, and hopes were entertained that it might coD' Iribttte to recover, our sick of the scurvy. 2 On the 19th, Captain Cook, attended by several! eotlemen, went on shore to return the Raja's visit; t their principal intention was to purchase the cattle and fowls, which they had been assured the precedin|l day thotild be driven down to the beach. We werti fiskthf chagrined at Bnding no steps had been taken tol !«ii$lihiii promise : however, we proceeded to the hounl of assembly, wychy with a few other houses, built b/l the Dutch £itttIiidiftCoimpaiiy,ar«di5tio4sqisfaedfroa| the flRST V0TAC2. 11^ 1 the rest, by having two pieces of wood, resembling a pair of cow horns, fixed at each end of the roof; and these we concluded to be what the Portuguese sailor coustru^d into crosses, from the Indian having crossed his fingers when he was describing the town. At the house of assembly, we saw Mr. Lange and the raja, whose name was AMadocho Lomi Djara, surrounded by many of the principal people. Captain Cook having informed them that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wished to exchange for necessary refreshments, permission was given him to land them. We now en- deavoured to make an agreement for hogs, sheep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cash ; but this business was no sooner hinted, than Mr. Lange took his leave, having first told the captain that he had receiv- ed a letter from the governor of Concordia, in Timor, the contents of which si.ouJd be disclosed at his return. As the morning was now far advanced, and we had no provisions on board, we requested the raja's permission I to buy a small hog and some rice, and to order hia people to dress the dinner for us. He very obligingly I replied, that if we would eat[victuals dressed by his subjects, which he could scarcely suppose, he would do himself the honour of entertaining us. A dinner being thus procured, the captain sent off his boat to bring liquors from the ship. It was ready about five o'clock, and after we were seated on mats, which were spread on the floor, it was served in six and thirty bas- kets. We were then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, near which stood a man with water ih a ves- sel, made of the leaves of the fan palm, who assisted us in washinglour hands. This done, we^ returned to our places, and expected the king. Having waited some time, we enquired the reason of his absence, and were infcrmed that the person who gave the entertainment never partook of it with his guests, but that the raja was ready to come and taste of what was provided, if We entertained a thought that the victuals were poi- jswicd. We declared that we did not harbour any such su8p!cion> 120 CAPTAIK COOK f V suspicion, and desired that the custom of the country might not be violated on our account. The pork and rice were excellent, |and the broth not to be despised; but the spoons made of leaves, were so small that few of us had patience to use them. We did not drink our wineattheplacf^ where we had dined; and iheremaint of the dinner we left to the seamen and servants. When we thought the wine had so far operated a; to open the heart, we took an opportunity to enquire after the buffaloes and sheep, of which we had not in all this time heard a syllable, though they were to have been at the beach early in the morning. Mr. Lange, Ihe Saxon Dutchman, now began to communicate to ps the contents of the letter, which he pretended to { have received fiom the governor of Concordia, and wherein he saiJ instructions were given, that if the ship should touch at this island, and in vvant of provi< sions,9he should be supplied ; but he was not to permit] her to remain longer than was necessary ; nor were any large presents to be made to the natives of low rank. It is.probable that the whole of this story was a fiction, and that by precluding our liberality to the natives, the Saxon Dutchman hoped more easily to draw all the presents of any value into his own pocket. In the evening we wercf informed, that only a few sheep had been brought to the beach, which had been driven a vs/ay before our peopIc| could procure money from the ship to pay for them. Vexed at being thus disappointed in purchasing tk\ chief articles most wanted, we remonstrated with Mr, Lange, who now fouiid another subterfuge. He said, had we gone down to the beach, we might have bought what we pleased ; but the natives were afraid of beinn imposed on by our seamen with counterfeit money.- We could no^but feel some indignation against a manl who had concealed' this, being true ; or alledged it, be> ing false. Captain Cook repaired immediately to thel beach, but nocattle were to be seen, nor any nearatj hand to be bought. The raja, indeed, had given aj snore plausible reason for our disappointment : he said,/ 2 fXRIT VOYAGE. 131 the buffiiloci being far up in the country, there had not [been time to hrin^^ them down to the beach. On the 20th, Dr. Sohinder went ashore with Cap- [tain Cook, and wbile the former went up to the town |to speak to Lange, the C4iptain remained on the beach with a view of purchasing provisions. Here he met iwith an old Indian, whom, as he appeared to have |some authority, we called the Prime Minister. The :aptain presented^ him with a spying-glass ; but only a imall buffalo was offered to be sold. The price was ire guineas, nearly twice its real value. Three, how- ever, were offered, which •che dealer thought a good )rice ; but said he must acquaint the king with what lad been bid before ^e could strike the bargain. A mger was immediately dispatched to the r^ja, and )n his return, brought word that no less than five guineas would be taken for the buffalo. The captain solutely refused to give the sum demanded, which :asioned the sending away a second messenger ; and luring his absence, Dr.Solander was seen coming from |he town, followed by above a hundred men, some of rhom were armed with muskets, and others with laaces. Upon enquiring into the meaning of this ostile appearance, the doctor informed us, that the eople would not trade with us, because we had refu- to give them more than half the value for their mmodities ; and that we were not to expect permis- lion io trade upon any terms longer than this.day. A native of Timor, whose parents were Portuguese, me down with this party, and delivered to the captain hat was pretended to be the order of the rajn, and hich was in substance the same that Lange had told .Solander;but it was afterwards discovered that this an w^ a confidant of Lange*sin the scheme of extor- ion. The English gentlemen had at the same time doubt, but (hat the-supposed order Of the raja was contrivance of these men, and while they were de- ting how io act in this critical juncture, anxious to ring the affair to speedy issue, the Portuguese began tp iv!e away such of the natives as had brought palm- Q *yfup m CAPTAIN cook's syrup and fowls to sell, and others who were powbrin|.| ing sneep and buffiiloes to the market. At this juncture,! Captain G)ok happening to look at the old man wlJ had been distinguished by the name of prime ministerj imagining that he saw in his features a disapprobation ( the present proceedings; and, willing to improve th advantage, he grasped the Indian's hand, andgave hiii| an old broad sword. This well-timed present produced all the good effects that could be wished ; the priioel minister was enraptured at so honourable a mark of di$.l tinction,and brandishing his sword over the head of the! impertinent Portuguese, he made both him and a maj who commanded the party to sit down behind him the ground. The whole business was now accomplished;! , the natives, eager to supply whatever was wanted,! brought their cattle in for sale, and the market wa soon stocked. Captain Cook purchased of the native some hundred gallons of palm-syrup, a small quantit] of garlick, a large number of eggs, some limes and co coa-nuts, thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, six sheep and nine buffaloes. Having obtained these article we now prepared for sailing from this place. The island of Sevau is situated in 10 deg. 35 min.l lat. and 237 deg. 30 min. W. long. The harbour iij which the ship lay was called Seba. The island pr ^uces tobacco, cotton, betel, tamarinds, limes, orange mangoes, Guioey corn, rice, callevances, and melon A small quantity of cinnamon was seen, and European herbs, such as garlick, fennel, celery, an marjorsim. Th^ people of this island are below the middle st» ture^ their hair is black and straight. The men well formed and sprightly, and their features differ mud from each other; the women, on the contrary, han all one set of features, are very short, and broad bulk The men have silver pincers hanging by strings rou their necks, with which they pluck out the hairs their beards. The dress of the men consists of ti pieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound roun the middle, and the lower edge of it being drawn pr ty tight between the legs, the upper edge is left loo riRST VOYAGE. 133 as to form a kind of pocket, in which they carry (nives and other things ; the other piece being passed inder the former on the back of the wearer, the ends of are carried over the shoulders, and tucked into the pocket before. The women drew the upper edge of le piece round the waist tight, while the lower edge, kropping to the knees, made a kind of petticoat : the ther piece of cloth is fastened across the breast* aiyd ider the arms. As to the food of these people, they eat all the tame limals to be found in the island; but they prefer the )g to all others; the next to this they admire horse- !8h i to which succeeds the buffalo ; then poultry : key prefer cats and dogs to goats and sheep. Fish is )t eaten but by the poor, nor by them except when jieir business requires them to be upon the beach; and len each man has a light casting net, which is girt [und his. body, and with this he takesr any small nsh |at comes in his way. {On the 21st of September, we got under sail, and ^nt our course westward. At four in the afternoon, in 1. 10 deg. 38 min. S. and long. 238 deg, 28 min. W, |e discovered a small low island. In the evening of : 23d, we got clear of the islands: and on the 28th, steered all day N. W. with a view of making the [and of Java ;and on the 30th, Captain Cook took in- I his possession the log-book and journals, at least all could find of the officers, petty officers and seamen* ^om he strictly enjoined to secrecy with respect to lere they had been. At seven in the evening, we thunder and lightning, and about eleven, by the It of the flashes, we saw the west end of Java. |0n the 2d of October, we were close in with the St of Java, in fifteen fathom water, along which we In the forenoon a boat was sent ashore, in order [procure some fruit for Tupia, who was at this time Iremely ill. Our people returned with four cocoa- tsand some plantains, for which they had paid a ping;but some herbage for the cattle the Indians ft our seamen, and assisted them to cut k« 0.2 W«^ 124 CAFTAIK COOK S We now made but very little way till night, when the land breeze springing up, we sailed to- the £. S £, snd in the following day came to anchor in the roai of Bataviaw At this place we found a number of large Dutch vessels, the RarcOu^^ East Imliaman from Eng* land, which had lost hf <.' passage to China, and two ships belonging to the private trade of our India coiq. pany. The Endeavour had no sooner anchored, than a ship was observed, with a broad pendant flying, from which a boat was dispatched to demand the name of j the vessel, witb that of the cotnmander, &c. To these enquiries. Captain Cook gave such answers as ht| thought proper, and the officer who commanded boat departed. The captain now dispatched an officer to the g(Ki vernor of the town, t(^ ajpologize for the Endeavour'i nor saluting ; for he had but three guns proper for tht] purpose excepi swivels, and he wp$ apprehensive that they would not be heard. The ship was so leaky, thxj she made about nine inches water m aa hour; patt of the false k;eel was gone j one of her pumps; was to* taHy useles^y and the rest so much" decayed, that the^ could not last long. The officers concurring in opinion, that the ship could not safely put to siea again in thinl condition, the captain resolved to solicit permiision heave her down ; but as he learned that this must M done in writing, he drew up a petition^ and had iij translated into Dutch. On the iOtb, the captain and the rest of the gr.nti men went on shore^ and appUed to the English reside at Batavia ; this gentleman^ v )i09m name was Leith, received hia countrymen in the politest manner, entertained them at dinner with great hospitality. Mr. Leith informed us, that a pciblic hotel was kept tav7n,by order of the Dutch governor, at which pliai merchants and other strangjsrs weve obligied to iodg and that the landlord of the hotel was bouiitd to liiJ them warehouses for their goods, on condition of ceiving, ten shillings on every hundred pouniis of tl value ; but as the Endeavour was a kiiig'a ship, officei VIR&T VOY4GB." l2Si officers and the other gentlemen might reside where jthey thought proper. In tbe afternoon^ Captain Cook attended the gover- Inor-general, who received him politely, and told him to wait on the council the next morningy when his [petition should be laid before them, and every thing: le solicited should be granted. On the 11th, Catptain Cook waited on the gentle* [men of the council, who informed hinr^ that aU his re^' Iqaests should be complied with. In the intermin, the [other gentlemen made a contract with' the master of Ithe hotel, to furnish thetn and their friends with as. ItDuch tea» cofiee, punch> and tobacco^ as they might [have occastonf tor, and to keep them a separate table,^ |for nine shillings a day English money. Our Indian friend Tupia,, had hitherto continued^ oor Iboard oa account of h^s disorder, which vras' of ike |bilioup kind,yet he persisted in refusing every medicine that was^ ofier-ed him. Mr. Ba^ks sent for him ^a shore, in hopes that he might? recover his health.-^ Thile in the ship, he was exceedingly listless and Ifyiif - Spirited, but he no sooner entered the town> thaiyhe seemed as if reanimiated. The houses, the f^vriages^ ^treets, people, and a noultiplicity of other o^jectf,. /holly new to him, produced an effect like ttie sup-^ }0seclpo wen of fascination. About this time we had procured an order to tbe ^uperiptendant of the isiand of Ourust, where the ship ^as to be repaired,, to receive her there, and by one )i the ships that sailed for Holland, an account waa :ntto Mr. Si'ephens, secretary to the Admiealfty, cl )ur arrival at this place. Here the captain found an laexpected dilficulty in procuring money for the !xpencea that womld be incurred by refitting the £n*« leavour ; private persona had neither the ability nor Inclination to advance the sum required ; he therefore :nt a written application to the governor hinaself, who Ordered the She bander to supply the captain with it money h^ might want out of the eooipi i^'i reasury* , Ob 126 CAPTAIN COOK S On the, 1 8th, we ran down to Ourust, and laid the ship along-side of the wharf on Cooper'9 island, Iq order to takeout her stores. In a little more than nine days, we began to experience the fatal effects of the climat^^ and situation. Tupia sunk on a sudden, and grew every day worse and worse. Tayeto his boy, was seized with an inflammation on his lungs. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and the two servants of the former became ve^y ill ; in i short, almost every person on board and ashore fell sick in a few days, owing, as we imagined, to the low swampy situation of the place. On the 26th, we erected a tent for the sick. Tu- pia, of whose life we began to despair, desired to be removed to the ship, in hopes of breathing a freer air; However this could not be done, as she was unrigged, and preparing to be laid down'at the -areening placcj but on the 28th, Mr. Banks cor '^7: Iiim to Coo- per's island, and, as he seemed pleased with the spot xiear which the ship lay, a tent was pitched for I him. I On the 5th of Noveinber, after many unavoidable I delays, the ship was laid down, and the same day Mr. I Monkhouse, our surgeon, fell a sacrifice to this fatal I coantry. Dr. Solander was just able to attend his fa- 1 neral, bet Mr. Banks in his turn was confined to his I bed. The power of disease, froin the pestiferous air I of the country, daily gaining strength, several Malay I servants were hired to attend the sick, but tl y nvd so I little sense either of duty or humanity, that t c pskSent I was obliged frequently to get out of bed v. s^dl them. I On the 9\hy our Indian boy Tayeto, paid the debt I of nature, and Tupia was so affected at the loss, that I it was doubted whether he would survive it till the I next day. I Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were nny so worn I down by their disorders, that the physici i^? declared I they had no chance for recovery, but by 7er;iovin{ I into the country. In consequence of this advice, a I house I FIRST VOYAGE. 127 I house was hired for them, at the distance of ahout two miles from the town, which belonged to the mas- ter of the hotel, who engaged to supply them with provisions, and the use of slaves. As^they had already experienced the unfeeling inattention of these: fellows to the sick, they bought each of them a Malay woman, who, from the tenderness of their sex, made them Igood nurses. While these gentlemen were taking Imeasures for the recovery of their health, they receiv- led an account of the death of Tupia, who sunk at lonce after the loss of his boy Tayeto, whom he loved Iwith the tenderness of a parent : they were both Iburied in the island of Edam. On the 14th, the bottom of the ship was thorough- ly repaired, and much to Captain Cook's satisfaction; |who bestowed great encomiums on the officers and rorkinen at the marine-yard ; in his opinion, there is tot one in the world, where a ship can be laid down rith more convenient speed and safety, nor repaired fith more diligence and skill. At this time Captain Cook was taken ill. Mr. Spo- iring also, and a sailor who attended Mr. Banks, were keized with the deadly intermittents, and onl^ ten of |he ship's company, were capable of doing duty. Yet lotwithstanding these perplexing obstacles, though, larassed by a contagious disease, and alarmed by &- ]uent deaths, we proceeded in rigging the ship, and getting water and necessary stores on board : the stores me easily obtained and shipped, but the water we ^ere obliged to procure from Batavia, at the rate of |ix shillings and eight-pence a leager, or one hundred jnd fifty gallons. On the 25th, in the night, there fell such a shower ff rain, as even, all of us had cause to remember. The rater poured through every part of Mr. Banks's house, |nd the lower apartments admitted a stream sufficient turn a mill. As this gentleman was now greatly stored to health, he went to Batavia the foRqwing lay, and was surprised to see that the inhabitants had juDg their bedding to dry. About the 26th of this month im CATTAIN COOtfs tmonth the moivtoons set in ; it YAow^ in the day^tnne ^m the N. or N. W. and ^om the S. W. dtiring the Dight} previous to this, there had been violent showen ctf rain ibr several nights. The ^tp being repaired, the «ick people received on board >her« amil the greater part of her water and 'Stores taken in, she sailed from Omust on the 8th of{ i>ecember, and andhored in the road of Bata twelve days werefmpioyedtn receiving the remainder of her prov>jsions, water, and ether necessaries, thougli ithe business would have been done in nHich less time, 'but that some of the crew died, and the minority o{ the survivors were so ill, as to be unable to give theirj assistance. On the 24th, Captain Cook took leave of the go. .oiernor, and some other genlSemen, who had distin.l ^uished ihemselves !by the civilities they shewed bi(n;| 4nit at this juncture an accident occurred, (Hat migl Qtave produced consequences by no means -desirable,! A Bat^vian deserted from a vessel, andentered himi -on board the Endeavour. 'Hi-e 'captain of the Dutcl ship having madeapplicntionto >the governor elaimf the delinquent as a subject of the States-^Teneral, tl governor issued his order for the restoration of tl Joan.; whenithis order was given to him, he said, the roan should be given up if >he appeared to be OBtcbman. As the captain was at this time on sh he gave the Dotoh officer a >note to the lieutenant, nj deliver the de8erhile we remained there. We buried seven of our [eaple at Batavia, vi2t. Tupia, and his boy, three of lie sailors, the servant of Mr. Green, and the surgeon ; Ihd at the time ot the vessel's sailing, forty of the itw were sick, and the rest so enfeebled by their late ^dess, as to be scarcely able to do their duty. CHAP. XI r. \n account o/Batdifia, and Us various pPodiicHons-^ The Endeatiour sails from batavia to the Cape of Good Hope—The Cape and St. Heleiia described-^ Remarks on the Hottentots — The Endeavour returns to England^ and aiichors in the Downs, on Wedncs- da)/, June 12, 1771. ATAVIA, situated in 6 deg. 10 min. S. lat. and Jll06 deg, SOmin. te.lohg. from the meridiari of peenWich, is built on the bank of a large bay, about Wtiiy miles from the streight of Sunda, on the north 3 11 side 130 CAPTAIN COOK^S side of the island of Java, on a low boggy ground, There are several small rivers, which ri^e 40 miles up the country. There are wide canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the ba-'cs of the canals are planted with trees, they appear ay £rst very agreeable; but these trees, and canals combine to render the air pestilential. Some of the rivers are navigable more than thirty miles up the countryJ and the Dutch appear to have chosen this spot to build the town on, for the sake of water carriage, in which copvenience Batavia exceeds every place inl the world, except the towns of Holland. ' The new church in Batavia is a Hne piece oil building, and the dome of it may be seen far off atl ^a.' This church is illuminated by chandeliers o(j the most superb workmanship^ and has a 6ne organ;! icnost of the other public buildings are ancient, cod< structed in £in ill taste^and give a very complete ideal of Dutch clumsiness^ 6at£^yia is encompassed by a river of shallow waterj tlie stream of which is very rapid f within this riverJ which is of difFerent widths in various places, isaol old stone wall, much decayed in many places, andl >vithin the wall is a canal, wider in some places thaol ill others, so that there is no entering the gates of ih« town but by crossing two draw- bridges ; there arel but few on the ramparts, and no persons are permitted to walk there. There is a kind of citadel, or castleJ in the N. E. come.- of the town, the walls oil which are both broader and higher than they are iol other parts; it is furnished with a number of largij guns, which command the landing-place. ' Apartments are provided in this castle for tbel governor-general and all the council > and in case o{| a siege, they have orders ^to retire thither. In tht castle are likewise a number of store-houses, in whicli the effects belonging to the company are deposited.] The company have in their possession large quantitie of gunpowder, which is kept in diflfercnt placcsi| ihaFthe lightning may not destroy th€ whole stock! ' onccji FIRST VOYAGE. 131 once ; a great number of ciinnon are likewise laid up within the castle. There are a great many forts built in different parts of the country; several miles distant [from Batavia, most probably erected to keep the na- Itives in subjection j and besides these there are a num- ^ »r of fortified houses, eaqh mounting eight guns, lich are so stationed as to command the canals, ihH the roads on the borders. There are houses of ihiskind in many parts of the island of Java, and the other islands in its neighbourhood, of which the >utch have obtained possession. The Chinese hav- ing rebelled against them in the year 1704, all their )rincipal houses were demolished by the cannon of )ne of these fortified houses, which is in the town of {atavia,where« likewise, there are a few more of ^hem. The fruits of this country are near forty in num- )er, and of some of these there are several kinds. *ine-apples grow in such abundance, that they may ^e purchsed for the value of an English farthing. The sweet oranges are good of tbeir kind, but dear It particular times. The shaddocks of the West In- [ies, called here pamplemooses, have an agreeable lavour. Lemon^ are very scarce, but limes are alto- [ether plentiful, and sold at little more than two- leace a score. There are many kinds of oranges and ;mons, but none of shem excellent. Of mangoes lere are plenty. Of bananas, there are an amazing iriety of sorts, some of which being boiled, are eaten bread, while others are fried in a batter,, and are a }urishing food : but of the/ numerous sorts of fruit, ^ree only are fit to be eatep : one indeed is remark- )Ie, because it 'is filled wrth seeds, which are not fnunon to thie ffest." Graphs "are sold from one shil- ig to eighth-pence a pound, though they are far from ling good. Tamarinlds are cheap and plentiful. The fcoa-nut is^lentiful in this country, and there are |veral kinds of this fruit, the best of which is very red stwen the shell and the skin. R2 In •J^i In this country sw^et scented flowcr,s arc plentifuly* jnapy species of which being entirely unknow,n, aie Vfotih remarking. The comot^^g topquin, and conj, bang parenassi^ are partipqiarly fr?^grai)t ^pweq, which bare scarcely any reseipbJance to ^^y<^ ihg$« iBowers with which we are acqji^ain^ed. THey zt^ very s.niail, and seem to he of \\ifi dpgVpane specjejj, Tlie caniunga, which is mpre )ike .a b^nph of le^y^ than a Hpwer^ is of a singular snic^ll^ hi^t Vi^ry gra^efi^ iTie bon ta^ong, h of* p^lc ycllo>y cpia^i;, and b;^ a very agreeable smeli ^ it is about ^n inch ape) an ))ai| in circprnference, and coDSJsits of pointed leaves, vhich gives it the appear^ni^ of a $lt;^r^ Thiere ij f Iso an extraordinary kind of flotver cialled fundiil , inalap), which signifies the intriguer of the nigh^ This floiver has no smell in the day-time, but as nigbj conies op, it has ^ very fjr^^rant scent« and is verji n^uch like the English tuberp^. Thesc^o^srers beiii| made into nosegays of 4i^rent shapes, or strunj upon thready are carried through the street for sal< on an evening. A plint called the pan^ang is pro^tjced here, tW leaves of which bein^ shri^^ $m^i|> ^^^ mi^ed vim other flowers, the natives of both ^*e^, fill t\^ ^loaths and hair wit|) this ^i;ctpv?^ vvhicp t^hey iikcr wise sprinkle on their beds, ai)d 4<^ep under this hm of sweets, a thiij piejoe of q\\\^\z being their m covering. Foro[xerlyihe only spipe tk^ grew pp the islands, Java was pepper. Afpw^Jderabie qi^^ntifcy isbroijgl /rpm hepce by the Jj^tpb, l^ut Vjery fittlfi^pr it is mii V$!^ of in the conntry. -The inhabitants prefer C^yi^; Pepper, and are fond .pf ipJipvps ^! first are tpo jdear to be ^pp^monly used, N^f^ 4 isjUnd of Ambpyna are sppi^ Jiff le is)e8,«f^'wh'pb wM However furnishes enough foraMtl>e natiPivs thatl^it ^ l^emand for that commodity. There are but fer 2 DUtme FIRST VOYAOE, m {nutnieg*tre«s on the-qoaiit of Neiv Guinea. The island of Java, of which we have already spoken* ?' roduces b^rse^, boffaloes, sheep, goats, and hog^,. he sort pf horses said to have been tpet with here when the country ^^ as 6rst discovered, appeared to |bp nimble anliiRal^, though smalj, being generally seldom above thirteen hands high. The horned c^tr kle of this country are diflerent from those of )Lur^e. They are quite lean, but of a very fine grain. Th^ Ichinese and the natives of Java eat the bufra)oei)esh| {which the Putch constantly refuse^ being impressed with a strange ide^ that it is feverish. The sheep ar« [hairy lil^e gpats, i^nd have long ears : they are mostly [found to be tough and ill-tastedr There happening jto be a few from the Cape of Good Hope at Batavia, soipe of them werp purjcbased at the rate of one shil* [liiig a pound. In this country, palm-wine and arrack are very [plentiful. Of the former, there are three sorts ; the llirst of which is drank in a few hours after it is brawn from thP tree, and is moderately sweet ; the |second and tiiird sorts are made by fermentation, and )y putting spveral sorts of herbs and roots Into rli« quor. In Java the religion of Mahomet is professed, for rhich reason the natives do not make use pf wine )ublicly, but ip private they will not refuse it. TJ^iey ilsochew opium, whose intoxicating qualities pr^Vfi its recommendation to the natives of Indict. ; ^ Some of th,e Indians are very rich, kej^p a gr^at )upnber of slaves, atnd live, in ^H resp^j^ls, apeording the custoi^ of their countries, whi|l^ others f^tc sinployed to carry ;goods by water j; and others again iubsistfby fishing. Th which ire imported from China, ami a little of the flesh pf )uffa]Qes and chickens; they are fond of friut, of t^h they eait large quantities, and with the flour of [he rice they m^}f;,t sfiveral sorts of pastry. When 134 CAPTAIN COOK S M^hcn a marriage is to be solemnized among them, ftfl the gold and silver ornaments that can be procured are borrowed to deck out the young couple, who, on I these occasions, never fail to make the most splendid Qppearance; sumptuous entertainments are given by those who can afford them, which continue twelve or fourteen days, and frequently more, during all which time the women take care that the bridegroom shall not visit his wife privately, though the wedding takes | place previous to the festival, On the 27 th of December early in the morning, we I weighed, left the harbour of Batavia, and stood out to &ea. On the 2Dth, after much delay by' Contrary winds, we weathered Pulo Pare, and stood for the main. On the same day, we passed a small island be- tween Batavia and Bantam, called Man-eater's island. On Sunday the 30th, we weathered Wapping ^nd Pulo Babi islands, and the next day; being the 3lsf,| we stood over to the Sumatra shore. ' - u; **. On the 1st of January, we steered for the Java | shore, and continued oijr course, as the wind permit- ted us, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the 5th,| when we cast anchor on the south-cast side of Prince's island, in eighteen fathom water, in order to recruit our stores, and procure refreshments for the sick, rnany of whonii were much worse than they were at our de- parture trom Batavia. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, accompanied by the captain and other gentlemen,, went on shore. We met upon the beach some In- dians, by iwhom we werfe conducted to their king.-| Httviri^ exchanged a few compliments with this per- S' the Indians dispersed, arid we proceeded alon^ shore in search of a watering-place. We happily but no turtle appeared till the lext day, after which some were brought to market ivery day while we staid there,but the whole quan- [ity together was not equal to that bought the day ifter our arrival. On the 11th, Mr. Banks having received intelll- ;ence from a servant he had hired at Batavia, th^t le Indians of this island had a town situated near the lore, to the westward, he determined to go in search |f the same. With this view he set out iri the morn- ig, accompanied by the second lieutenant; and ap^ frehending his visit might not be agreeable to the itives, he told such of them as he met, that he was search of plants. Having come to a place where icre were three or four houses, they met with an Id man, of whom they ventured to make a few en-x lulries concerning the town. He would have per- laded them, chat it was at a great distance; but srceiving that they proceeded forward, he joined ►mpany, and w^nt on with them. The old man [tempted several times to lead them out of the way, lough without success ; but when at length they ime within sight of the! houses, he entered cordially |to their party, and conducted them into the town, name of which is Samadang. It consists of about ) houses, and is divided by a brackish river into ro parts, one called the old^ and the other the new [wn. When they had entered the former, they were 130 CA1*tAlK C00K*9 W^rc accosted by several Indians whote (S».^ nad steni at the trading-^lace^ and one of them undertook td| ^atry them oirer tb the new town, at 2d. per head. The bargain being made, they embarked in two small I ^arloes, placed along-side each other, and lashed to. gether, to prevent their over-setting. They landed safely, though not without some difficulty ; and when they came to the rtew town, the peopl to defend their crops against the birda dnd monkeyJ who without this necessary caution would destrof Ihem* ' "When their curiosity was satisfied, thdy hired i\ large sailing-boat for two rupees^ value 4s. Whim conveyed them to the bark time enough to diiie uptnl one of the small deer, weighing only 401b. whici proved to be exceeding good and savoury food. Inl the evening we again went on s' -^re, to see how oiifl jjieople went ort, who were eto 'ed In wboding artdf i^atering, when we were told^ mat an axe had bem stolen^ Applioatiot) was immediately made to im king, who, after sofihre altercation, prottiised that ihei axe should be restored in the morning ; ahd it wasac-f cordlngly brought us by a man, who pi'etended, thail the theif, afraid cHT a discovery, had left it at his houjt| in the flight* On the 13th, having completed our Wood aii ^^s^tct^ Mr* Banks took leave of his majesty, to whoo he had made several trtHing presents, and at parting gatre him twacfuires of paper, which he graciou$|{ accepted. During their conversation, the kingerfj qUifed t;ly6rie sh^, ttiany cotlld npt be expected; an to stt^sply this defett, Mr. Biairks ddvised his majV f IMT VOYAOI. UT I to breed cattle, bufTaloes, and sheep i but he did not leem disposed to adopt this prudent measure. On the 14th, we had got on board a good stock of fresh provisions, consisting of turtle, fowl, fish, two lipecies of deer, one about the size of a sheep, the lother not bigger than a rabbit; also cocoa-nuts, IpUntainSf limes, and other vegetables. The deer, iDowever, served only for present use, for we could jieldotn keep one of them alive more than twenty-four louri. On the 15th, we weighed, with a light breeze It N. E. and stood out so sea. Wee took our depar- ture from Java Head, which is in lat. 6 deg. 49 min« I. and in long. 253 deg. 12 min. W. . . In the month of Feoruary, we held on our course, ^nd made the bestof our way for the Cape of Good lope ; but now the fatal seeds of disease, our people ^adimbibedat Batavia, began to appear, with the loit alarming symptoms, in dysenteries and slow evers. Our situation in n short time was truly de« klorable, and the ship was little better than an hos- lital, in which those who did duty were too few to Ittend those who were confined to their hammocks, [any of these were in, the last stagd of the destruc- ive disorder ; and almost every night we committed I body to the sefi. }>^r. Banks was among the num'* tr of the sick, and for some time we despaired of hia fe. In {the course of six weeks, we buried Mr« iring, a gentleman of Mr. Banks's retinues Mr^^. irker, his naturaf histpry painter: Mr. Green, the ktropomeri the boatswainji Jthe jcarpenter and his late,; Mr.^MQnkhpuse, the midshipman; our jolly Itl-maker tjai his issistant ff the cook ; the corporal j themaripe$4 two qf the darpenfer's crew ; a mid|. )fj^mn^af^4^,,n\f}e. wilorf ;, in ,all ^wenty-three pet- is^ ^stqes seven at Batavia^ ^^ . Id the 15t)i of^Marc)i«W( brought the ship to an J^oroff th^ij^ej of Goo^j^^ Captain Cook gpa«Kd jmfhediacel/ to thcj^gqpir^ui^r, who cheerlbllv ~ni48^dhi^, every; refr^mept^^f^r^iintry aifordedf> o agreed they sWotfltf Ire iBfl^W litld' tfba^dfeW^ Ml 1^1: etftlfmiii'iferday'" '^' ' '■'^♦^■-^- ^^^^ i^- At* the tiiiie' tiJ^^ fiiHe^tvi5tif %'ir Gdbd Hbti^, fh^ Hbti^HVbh Indi^ttiiKi ik'iM for E^^: laifd; Sh^i11 b«f acceptd abfi^ t6 our niirierbns rteadifirs:; ^^ ttiejr w5ll nM with sortie partibblaii it'ltteh ffetf iJridfet our dbserva-J tionV thit have eirlit^f b^icD wftwly omittcdj dr riiisj re^esisiTtcd in Other narifatlves: ' '^ ' ' The Cap^ of Qood Hbj)^, WhftU 4is the mbst sou^ thernpartbf Afriba, #isf?rst'dHrife, isj Mit'M uiider ' m ^ri^^^'^^ fSqq^W^ckmfiV; ^t^ei w&teritrd otWr refe^Msr itfldf^of §f dbjiWIt ititi tieir vbV^fcW tb-ffi^'ESsriiidlfebV Btti Jbhri. r of IWi*al> Iffit'«i8t'tlftfc^':pfe ' mi^ 'Mi idtei 2 ¥\%iT VOYAGE. ^.v:j» appeJMtipujt/?^ ^yer^inpe,rc^^mcd, ^ / ,..4. :,j .JJeitJtier ;lj|(az, i?pr his $^cce^sp^ ,ya^CK)^e Gama^ i]jut m X,i09,|he P9rfug,ujre ;^ap4ifQin {1)is ^^cpoTt, t]^P??"'^ ^'^g 9^ 1^94'i?^^ »detcrmiaea.to !j95^Wi^aco}jP!py; but ^e P^nugJ^^^e l^^yiqg Vs^fen it into thieb -bc^ds ,>^^t Jbejnbabitajts of,|he Q^p« |w^e caf)i\^^s,, ., Were too . iji^f h | afi:^^! ^ pf being de- yourdd, to 0|(?iey,fhcir ^9yereign in njaKing tlie settle- ;ijjent he injteid^ : fcowieyef, ^oipe time ^tter, ^shpt^er J^y of |thcsc t^nrjid adycn4:urers made, ^go.pld .tq sion of it, or sell it, and return home. Induced bf these proposals, many went to sefek their fortunes at] the Cape« and were furnished on credit with cattle,] grain, plants, utensils/ &c. The planters, however,] at length grew weary j>f their habitations for wantotj conjugal society ; therefore, the governor of the conhj p9ny, to prevent their leaving the place, provided] thenfi with wives from the orphan* houses, and Qihc charitable foundations. In process of time they greatlfj increased, and spread themselves farther up the coun*{ t9y» and along the coast till they occupied all the] ' lanf FIRST VOYAGE. Ul mdt from Sandanna Baiy, round the southern p6int )f Africa, to Nossel Bay, on the £. and afterwards larchased Terra de Natal^ in order to extend their [iinits still farther. On the first settlement of the Dutch^at th^ ^^P^i ■11 theHottentot tribes did notacouiesce in the sale of [he country to foreigners; for the Gunyemains dissent- ed from the agreement of the others, and, in 1659^ lisputed the possession of the purchased territories rith the Dutch. They always made their attacks in listerous weather, as thinking the fire-arms then of use and efficacy ; and upon these occasions, they rould murder indiscriminately all ,the Europeans they ould meet, burn down their houses, and drive away leir cattle. But the Hottentots themselves at length growing tired of the war, one huiidred of them, be- OQging to one nation, came unarmed to the Dutch irt, with a present of thirteen head of fine cattle, in |rder to sue for peace. This, it may be imagined, readily granted by the Dutch, who were heartily |ckof a contest in which themselves were such great losers, without reaping any ^advantages from it, The land over the Cape, which constitutes the pe- ila formed by Table Bay on the N. and False Bay the S. consists of high ir^untains, altoig^ether naked id desolate: the land behind these to the £. which |ay be coiisidered as the islhmus, is a plain of vast ctent, consisting almost wholly of a light kin of sea |ad, which produces nothing but heath, and is utterly capable of cultivation. Cape Town is the only one the Dutch have built tre, and it consists of about 1000 houses, neatly built [brick, whited in general on the outside. Thrvare [vered only with thatch, for the violence of ^^ §. £. would render any other roof inconven lent |d dangerous. The streets are broad and oommodi- s, crossing each other at right angles. The houses general have pleasant gardens behind^ and neat |urt-yards before them. Th« J42 CAPTAHT CO^KS . The town «xt«nds from Ihisf ^saa-shere to t^eicritQp* . iiiyVjfa«deov»8prea(Ung aloqg jTaible Bay, T^p/fitt; . in a vallny ^at a .imall idjiltance, It^ form; pipntsigon^jj it commands the landing-place, and isgarmop^d I <^00) soldiers. IThe wgoycTnor*s,«tore-hou$es^ref|ivjtliS iit; othdr olBeeirsfbfSsi^e hi miself- have* apartments he • us wiellas >600/serVknt$. THa hospital fpr aipk.jeat .^8 of essential u»e'^td the Dutch ^fleets in goipg to ai) returning from fiadia., What is mostFfto be -admired * at the C^e, ,is company'^, gacdea>t whece they have introduced 3)034 /itll' the fruits and ik>Wiei>s that are foMnd in theotb vthreer quarters of 'the gloibQ ; imost of ' whk?h arejji yl^roired.ranjdrflojurlshfiiiore^han they didin their xt^ . 4tive )cliinat£is;(afidr theij^arden isdratered vffitjh sprj| r that: fall dpwni/iloin'rTahle Mountain, just, aboye A^iiiiles and pears /.aive planted her;e,r with] grapes !!^isia, as well asthotwr^Etrrape* -Here; ainevalso,)! fiiioni^.oi?afiges,iQitron$i<^gs, Japsftn appl§$>«and a^gd Vacietyt)f»othet£ri:Ul5. i ? ! ?,. Notwiths*aiKliDg*the naCural .sifceriU^y «f ihai inate,Miiidustry4fiaSi$u^pilied this placeiiivith \al,I.thej ccssaries,f and eveniluxuTies* of life^ii^ tliei^gresatest pj viilsion. IThc.beefiTandfBQJtt^n ;are/.exoelIcE>t, tb? Mhe oxen^and Unefrpjare naiiv es 6f ^he^eoui^iitry. f, butter is made fromiitbe ■ imlk of cows,- b^t.chee^j if'lMridr to tours. Here: are hogSy and a greatj yafi^fjs vpooltry J also. goats, but; these last are ne^verw iHares aretiO'be ifouud exactly. like those in 1 Eurn likewise many kinds of antelopes j^qiuails of twosi i»nd bu2tzards> fell lyfcU flavoured. The fieldiiuprodcice EiUfopean - wheat, rand bar! jifhci gardens Earopfian vegetables 3 fruity of . all J8i|| .^eiioes plantains, guivas,, jambuil and other la ^'IniitSr The vineyards a-lso :prodocerri^^ities . of vnn vifcorts,but]jnotcquhLito those ofiEurope^ except ii'^Gonistaftlia, which isiinadeigenuine-ofily^atione;:! 'syardi about ten miles idistant from the tow There is another vineyard <«etr it, 'Where / wi ^1-R'^t^* y^YA(9&t 141 jaiouScbionit*Vantfj^rf^rf* ie woods aiid hibuhtakis aibb^hd wiA *Mj*d bcW^Jsv^A-i/t? Tifc hof«f s; wWiiili Ae/e orig4Hal4yi Ifftmghtk fKj^'nnr Pii<«'^ J, are "of 6' bay ot ' fclt«nftt" c^Tcya^ bi r t*ayh4r^«^ itriorfg tftewifd liett^^s, tft'relfc|>bAntid«|itm ^thc* firiitJ [dee. THe thihoc6^c« is df i derlc ash^ eotoiir, imd" ^rtOdtiifte i fefd^.' At thfe Ca^cy Wdlveis ai*«f. ;o kiii^dlii tHe ortfe resembles a sheiffp do^, and ia^' Wed like^ tygefri the other is tik& aft Europtaii k " ■ '- ■ ■' ■■ '^'^'-■'-^■■•-: • : ■;■ Lions, tygers, leopards^ &c. also abound hert, arid ' *^a ^rb^bfesotiie, that the pertort ivho kiH« one of [ier ^ort, isyev^arded wifh ttverrry-fiv« florftw, or fifty* ilfinl^. The fltfjih of the Tfon is csfeemed equal to Msw'j and the fail mcrch valued; Here are njuth ^ ir btlfllaldcis thkrt m Eutope, ' -^m y Wcsaw hei*e elks five feet hi^gh, with horrw a foot' ig. Another stngufer aftlimal isf that called the' |nk-bo3f, from Hs Offensive siriell both living and deadV^ Idcats^arie of severitl sOrt«. The first, the Butch 111 the civet cat, not thititis really the aninjal of tbait ' W, butbefcause of the fifre sceirt of the skin. The [*t the tVger cat, from its being spotted like a tygcf . ' Mdthe mourttiiin eat, which resembles those of- rf6|oe. The f-i'btind * ihyflktmchefe,tiirifd'a*i^tibb(h sklH; Thefemaii^i^aW^' mU^ l>Wck> mh lH^''tH«ei^*tihlie and btbiiwi'M.i y a ■w ■ ,m- 144 CATTAIH COOK • ai to appear to a diitant beholder, as if covered witti ribbons. . A great variety of birds and fowls are found at tbe C8pe» both wJl^d and tame. Here are three sornj of eagles } namely^l. The bone-breaker, which feedij dnioirtdsesy to obtain the flesh of which, it uses tbiJ lingular method: having carried the tortoise aloft iid the air« it drops it upon some hard rock, by whicbj nieans the shell is broken, and the eagle can cdne easMy at its prey. ^. The dung eagle, which tears out] the entrails of animals to subsist on, and theugh not] bigger than a goose, is strong and voracious. 3. The! duck eagle, so called because it feeds principally upo ducks. * ,f: But of all the numerous birds that are to be fouDdl 'here, the flamingo is one of the most sii^gular. It h a long neck, and is larger than a swan : the legsar remarkably long, and of an orange tawney, and tb. feet are like those of a goose : the bill contains bJiKJ teethi with black points; the^ head and nectc arecn*] tirely white; the upper part of the wings are of bright flame colour, and the lower black. Now we come to speak of agriculture, for the He. tentots in general, detest the very idea of cultivation, and Would sooner starve than till the ground, so greatif are they addicted to sloth and indolence. The work| ing of the plough is here so laborious frorai the stiT ness of the soil, that it frequently requires twenty o^e to one plough. The sowing season is in July, and to harvest ^bout Christmas. The corn is not threshed with a flail, bdttrodou^ by horses and oi^tp, on artificial Door made of cow-dung, straw, and watt which, when mixed tpgether, cements^ and soon' cqmes perfectly hard. It is laid in an pyal form. T„ cattleare confined by halters, which run from on to.tt)epther, and the driver stattds, in jhe middle, vtht^ he exercises a long stipk to keep the^ contiuMikll/l a. quick pace. By this iitethod^ half a^ cloven boti wiU dp more iii<|ijRe^,^4^^ ?i4«P» «nfl? canilo ' a, wee t. ,,* FIRST vbyAcE. U& The women iii general s^rc very handsome : they ive fine clear skills^ and a bJoom of colour thae ipdi*- [ates a purity of con9tttutioik» and high health. They lake the besit wives in Che world, both as nllstre^*se9 .a family and mothers, and there is scarcely a house [hat does not swarm with children. There ate sixteen Hbttentot nations^ which inhabit lis southern promontory. ; The stature of th^ Hjot^n* ..men is fromiive to six, iset- high ; their Ii>|odiei at;«i roportidnabk^ and well-diaae j the)^ are- sejdom f ither )Q fat or kani aind scarce ever any crooked or deibfm* persoiis among them^ aigiy farther than they disfiigure ir cbildfeni themselves^ by flatdng and breaking the itleof their liOBes^ looking on a flat nose as a beauty* Pteir hcads^ as well a& their eyes^ are rather of the iFgest : their: lips are naturally thick; their hair black il(l short like tbe negroes, and they have exceeding ^biteteeth. " - .^#Mi-^r.-f The women afre much less than the men ) and what I most remairkable m tbem^ is a callous flapi or skit» falls over the pudcniday and in a maimer cOnceaJl The feporti of whtck usually excites the curiosity, If tbe Euijropean saiilodrs tq visit tbe' Hottentot vHlagea sar the" Cape^ where a great many of those ladies, on being a stranger, will offer to satisfy their curiosity fovi ^ballpenny, Nft)re a crowd of people. When a Hott^tot brings a son into the world, there great rejoicing j but the first tbmg they dd with the lild, is to tlaulbrtt all over with cow-dung ; th-en lay it £i»re the fire, or t^ sun^ tiU the dung is dried ; after lich they r»b it. off, and wash the child with the ce of certaun herb*^ laying it in the sun, or before lie five again, till thei li^twM; is dried in ; a^^r which ey anoint the child front head to ibot with butter, ox beep*"* fat otelted,, which i& df ied in as the^wice, was ; ad this custom of anointing their bodies with fat, they taia afterwards as long as they live. After the child heenthiits smeared and greased, the mother gives it [hat name she th^nkis proper, which is-usually the name iooM wild beast or dcnaestit doimal. When the wo^ 4' \»m ;»/■: . :■• /■ T :. . man. 146 CAPTAIN cook's man h well again, and aMe to leave her hut, she rubi herself with cow-dung i and this filthy dauhing is by these delicate people termed a purification. Beinr thus perfumed, and elegantly decorated with sheepV guts, she is permitted to go abroad} or to see company at home. If the woman has twins^ aind they are girls, the inan proposes t^ to the kra^l, that he. may expose one of them 'either mpoii pretence tof]^verty, or that his, wife hai liot Riilk foir them*bdth<; and in this they' indulge ooej another 5 thiey do the same when they have a boy and a girly bnt^ always preserve the boys, dioug^ tfhey hap>j pem tdihavet^a&t a birth.: The expo^d chJd isca^ ried' tda'xlistanee from the Icr^al;^ and' if t^ey can ^ a cave or hdle in the earthy ^hat some wild beast kii made, they put the' child alive into it ; Hiid then havini stopped up the mouth of the '.vr,i< ^ l^hey do not deal thuk; hOwe^/»as^a3beenobseiY< ed,' by their male children ; on the birth of a boy, thi kill va bullock, and if they have twinSj' two bulloch and make an entertainttient for all the ^ xieighbourh who Congratulate the par^ts on their good fortune and, as with us, the greatest rejoicings are ^n the bin' of the frrst son. * ^'-^ •i-- '*■ ^'■■'■^' -'■'■3- *'■ At the age of . ghteen, the male > Hiottentots bein| deemed men, are admitted into the male 'Sibdety: men of the village sqfuat down, and form a circle, asi usual upon public occasions ; the ydudi squats do without the circle, at some distance; The oldest n of the kraal then rises from the circle, and having oh tained the general consent for the admission of a member, he goes to the youth, acquaints him with determination of the men of the kraal, and conclm his harangue with some verses, which admonish hi to behave like a man for the future. The youth being then daubed with soot and fat, sprinkled with urine, is congratulated by the coinpai in general in a kind of chorus, which contains the ' lowing wishes: that good fortune may attend him, he- may livelong, cad thrive daily, (hat he may hai ,.A FIRST VOYAGE. 14t iiave a beard, and many children, till it is universally llowed he is a useful man to the natiod. A feast con- cludes the ceremony,, but the youthrbimself is not per- litted to participate of any part thereof till all the rest Ire served. , ~ Having been thus admitted into the male society; it expected that he should behave ill to women in ge- [eial, and to his mother in particular, in order to evince is contempt of every thing feminine. Indeed it is usual ^r a youth, as soon as admitted, to go to his mother's lit, and cudgel her heartily, for which he is highly ap. lauded by the whole kraal ; and even the sufiFering pa^ U herself admires him for his spirir, ^nd, protests that le blows do not gi«^e her so nrncn pain, as the thoughts T having brought such a mettlesome son into the world Fords her pleasure. The more ill treatment he gives |s mother^ the more esteem he obtains ; and every time strikes her she Is in \he highest raptures, and thanks rdvidence for having blessed her with such a spirited ild. [The Hottentots are exceeding superstitious, and fond divination. In order to know the fate of a sick per- 1, they flay a sheep alive ; after having its skin entire- I taken off, if the poor animaLis able to get up and lawfiy, it is deemed a propitious omen; but, on the itrary, if the excrucialing pain kills it, they imagine |it tbepatien't will certainly die, and accordingly give up entirely to nature, without taking any further k of him. Whatever they believe of departed souls, they have I notion either of heaven or hell, or of a state of re- |rds or punishments; this is evident from the beha- |ur of a dying Hottentot, and those about him ; ler he or his friends offer up any prayers to their for the salvation of his soul ; or mention the state leparted souls, or their apprehensions of his being ^py.or miserable after death : however, they set up ible bowlings and shriekings when the sick man is ^is last agonies ; and yet these very people are fre- [ntiy guilty of murdering their ancient parents, as. as their innocent children; for when the father T 2 o: 148 CAPTAIN COOK t of a family is become perfectly useless and superannii,| ated, he is obliged to assign over his stock of cattle i and every thing else he has in the world, to his eldotj son ; and in default of sons, to hi$ nei^t heirmale : afterl which, the heir erects a tent or hut in some unffirequent.1 ed place, a good distance irom the kraal or campy belongs to ; and having assembled the men of the kratlJ acquamts them with the condition of his superannuated! relation, and desires their consent to expose him in M distant but; to which , the kraal scarce ever refu$e th^ consent. Wfiereupon a day being appointed to the old man to the solitary tj^nt, the }iei.r kills an< and two«or three sheep, at^d invites the who^e villag to feast and be merry with him ; and at the en^ of tli entertainnrent, all the nei^hboiirhood come and take! formal leave of the, old 'wretch, thu^ condeqined to I starved or devoured by wild beasts : then the unfortB nate creature is laid upon one of *th*eir carriage on and carried to his last homp, attended to •the piv where he is to be buried alive, by most of his neis' hours. The old man being . taken down, and in the middle of the hut {Provided for him, the cc pany return to their kraal, and he never sees tli face of a human creature afterwards ; they never much as enquire whether he was ^tafrved to *de or devoured by wild beasts ; he is no more thoug pf, than if he had never been. In the same mi ner they deal with .the superannuated n^other; onl{{ as she has nothing she can call her own^ she his i ^he trouble of assigning her ejects to her son.- Whenever |he Hottentots are upbraided with tli unparalleled piece of barbarity, itky re^y, ft wc be much greater cruelty to safScfr an old creati to languish out a miserable life, and to be years a dying, than to make this quick dispatch them ; and that it is out of their extreme tendei they put an end to the lives of these old wrctcha all the argument in the world against the ink nity of th^ custom, can make^ no impression themt and indeed^ as loi^ as the Dutch have m FIRST VOYAO&. 149 lat the Cape, they have not been able to break them of lone single custom, or prevail with them to alter any^ irt of their conduct, hew barbarous or absurd soever: id it seems, the captain or a kraal is not exempted l^om seeing his funeral solemnised in this manner, (while he is alive, if he happen .to become useless.' And Ithis leads us to treat of such funerals as are solemnized lafter the person is really dead. The sick man, having resigned, his breath, is imme- [diateiy bundled up, neck and heels together, in his Isheep-skin mantle, cffcceeding close, so that no part of jtbe corpse appears : then the captain of the kraal, with Isome of the seniors, search the neighbouring country Ifor some cavity in a rock, .or the den of a wild beast, [to bury it in, never digging a grave, if they can find one of ^cse withih a moderate distance. After which, the whole kraal, men and women^ prepare to attend the Icarpse, seldom permitting it. to remain above ground Imore tl^n six hours. Whfn all things are ready, all {the neighbourhood assemble before the door of the de- ceased, the men sitting . down on their heels in one [circle, and resting their elbows on their knees (their [usual posture) as the women do in another: here they clap their hands, and howl, crying. Bo, bo, bo; (i.e. father) lamenting their losSi The corpse being thcj [brought out on that side the tent where the person died, and not at the door, the bearers carry 'him in [their arms to tie grave, the men and women follow it tin different parties, but without any manner of order, [crying all the wa]jr, Bo, bo, bo ! and wringing their [hands and performmg a thousand ridiculous gesture^ grimaces, which is ftequently the subjert of the [Dutchman's mirth; it being impossible, it is said, tQ forbear laughing at the antic .tricks they shew on such an occasion. Having put (:he corpse into the. cavity prepared for it, they stop up the mouth of it, with ant [hills, stones, and pieces of wood, believing the ants will feed on the corpse, and soon consume it. The grave being stopped up, the men and women rendezvous again before the tent of the deceased, where they repeat [their howling, and frequently call upon the name o^ their 150 CArTAlK cook's their departed friend : after which two of the oldest mtn get up; and one ot them going into the circle of| women, urine upon every one of the company; and/ where the kraals are so very large, that two cannot find water enough for this ceremony, they double or treble the number. Then the old men go into the tent of I the deceased; and having, taken up some ashes from I the 6re-place, they sprinkle them upon the bodies 0} I the people, blessing .them as they go; and, if ^he de.| ceased was a person of distinction, this is acted over again several days. But we should, have remembered that the ceremony alw^s concludes with an entertain, ment. If the deceased had any cattle, a sheep is killed on the occasioi! ; and the caul being powdered with buchu, is tied about the heir's neck, who is forced to' •wear it till it rots offt which is no gre^i penance, ali stinks being perfumes to a Hottentot. Ali the rela. tions also wear the cauls of sheepi about their neck%; which it seems is tlieir mqurning, unkss the children of the deceased arjc so poor, that they cannot kill a sheep ;. and then they shaye their , heads in furrows of about an inch broad, leaving the hair on of the same breadth between cyery furrow. • It is not an easy matter to .come to an Hotter^ot's religious notions; he is sparing of his words, and laco-^ sic m his answers upon all occasions ; but when reli- gious topics arc introduced, he generally conceals his sentiments Jn silence. Some on this account have doubted whether the Hottentots have any religiorr at all; but the most intelligent among the Dutch at the, Cape positively affirm^ that they beneve in a Supreme Bemg, whom they stile Gounya Taquoa, or a God of* ^ods, and fancy that his . place of residence is beyond toe moon. They allow pounya Taquoa is a humane benevolent being, yet they .have no mode of worship- ping him ; for which they give> this reason, '* That he cursed iheir first parents for having greatly offended him, on which account their posterity have never from that time paid him adoration. " They believe that the tnoon is an inferior visible god, and the representative of the high and invisible : that she has the direction of the weather: FIRST VOYAOe. 151 father : and therefore they pray to her when ir is un- ^asonab'e. They never fail to assemble and worship his planet at the new and full moop, let the weather be ever so bad ; and though they distort their bodies, in, aiid put on very frightful looks, crying and howU iiig in a terrible manner, yet they have some exprcs- iions thaiV shew their veneration and dependence on |his inferior deity ; as * Mutschi Atzc, I salute you ; tou are welcortie ; Cheraqnij kaka chori Ounqua, rant us pasture for our cattle and plenty of milk. These and other pisyers to the moon they repeat, fre- luently dancing and clapping their hand» all the hile; and at the end of every danee^ crying, Ho, 0^ ho, ho! raising and falling their voices, and using bundance of odd gestures, that appear ridiculous to European spectators ; and which no doubt, made them It first, before the knew any thhig of their language, jrfdude^ that this could not be the effect of devotion, jpeciallywhen the people themselves told them, it as not an act of religion,' but only intended for their ivcrsion. They continiie thills shouting, singing, ^nd mcing, with^ prostrations on the earth, the whojte ight, and even part of the next day, with some short itervals, never resting, unless thev. are quite spitint ith the violence of the action ; and then they squat »wn upon their heels, holding their heads between, leir hands, and resting their elbows on their knees^ j id, after a little time they start up again, and fall singing and dancing iir a circle as before, with* all iir might. ". ^> The Hottentots also adore a fly about the bigness of lomct, called by some the golden 'beetle ; whenever !y see this insect approach their kraal, they all as- ible about it, and sing and d)mce round it while it lains there, strewing over it the powder of buchu, botanists called spiraem; whio^ when it is dried pulverized, they always powder themselves with tat festivals. They strew the same powder also over itops of their tents, and over the yhole area of the lal; as a testimony of their ven^ation for the adored , - • .'•.— , fly^i' 132 CAPTAIN COOK S (ly. They sacrifice also two sheep as a tlianksgivinir for th'ou»- shewn their kraal, believing they shall certainly ;>rosper after such a visit : and^ if this insect happens to light upon, a tent, they look upon the owner of it for the future as asaint^ and pay lum niore than usual respect. Tht best ox of the kraal also n inamediately sacrificed, tc testify their gratitude to the little winged deity, and to honour the saint he has been pleased thus to distinguish; to whom the entrails of the beast, the choicest njorsel in their opi. nion, with the fat and the caul, are presented; and the caul being twisted like a rope, the saint ever after wears it like a collar round his neck day and ni^ till it putrifies and rots off; and the saint only feastij upon the entrails of fhe beast, while the rest of tl kraal 1<^^^ upon the joints, that are not in so esteem among them ; with the fat of the sacrifice t^ saint anointa his body from time to time, till is all spent ; and, if the fly light upon a woman si i^ :|^ less reverenced by the neighbourhood, and titlqd Xo^ the like privileges. It is scarce possible esiprpss the ajgonies the Hottentbts are in, if s European attempts to take or kill one or these insei s^ the X>Uwhen theyi no people work h«irdcr, or more indefatrgably ; Iforthey never leave a piece of work till they have Ifinishcd it* , :u^•^hijiU:^i ituii; • The ivory'turner makes th? ifo^y rings that aw rorn ornamentBliy about tlie arms ; and 'considering ^ it his only tool is a common clasp knife^ which ho* )rocure8 from the Dutch, the workmanship has greart ;rit. ^ ' The potter, or maker of earthen vessels, istanother' ; but this, it seems, they are all dexterous at, every stnily making the pots or pans they want.> For thes« ^hey use only the earth of ant-hills, dealing them of ill sand or gravel ; afier which they work it together rith bruised ant eggs, that are said to constitute an jxtraordinary cement. When they have inoul^d these laterials into a kind of paste, they take as much of khem as will make one of their pots, and fashion it by pnd upon a Hat stone, making it of the form of a Ro- »n urn *, then they smooth it within and without ifcry carefully, not leaving the least roughness upon the Surface ; and, having dried it in the sun two or three lays, they put the pot into a hole in the ground, and }urn it by making a fire over it ; and, when they take^ |tout, it appears perfectly black: every family also lake their own mats, with which they cover their tents )r huts ; but this is chiefly the business of the wotnen : \kty gather the flags and rushes by the river side, and ^eave or plat them into mats so closely, it is said, that lither the weather or light can penetrate them. The last artificer we shall mention is the rope-maker, iho has no better materials than such flags and rushes »s the mats are made of; and yet they appear almost 8:vong as those made of hemp: the Dutch, at the ^?oe, buy and use them in plowing, and in draught- ptrriages. A« i3ii CAPTAIN COOK S . As to. tbe way of travelling here, the natives ail travel on foot, except the aged and infirm ; and these are carried on their baggage oxen. As there are noj inns or places for refreshment, the travelling Hottentot] Calls at the kraals -in his way, where he meets with a hearty welcome from his countrymen, who endeavour I to shew their hospitality to strangers, whether of their I own country or or Europe. Such indeed is the general urbanity of these people, and their strict integrity when I any confidence is placed in them, that wjien the Ho|. | landers travel either on foot or horseback, if they can. not reach an European settlement, they also call atthtl kraals of the Hottentots, where they are complimented ivith a hut, and such provisions as they have ; or the? >r may lie in the area of the kraal, in the open air, if they I * please, and the weather be good; and^, here they ait secure, both from robbers and wild beasts; for the Bushis banditti on the mountains are dangerous, as thejr give no quarter; but the Hottentot nations in general hold them in abhorrence, and unanitpously concur io I seizing and punishing them upon all occasions. Their language is very inarticulate and defective; oneword signifies several things, the definitive meaningl being determined by the manner of pronoucing ; and the pronunciation is so harsh and confused, that they «eem to stammer in all they speak. Hence, though t^iey are easily taught to understand other languages, they can seldom be brought to speak them with anjj degree of intelligibility. We shall here subjoin a small Hottentot vocabulary,! for the satisfaction of the curious; khauna, signlBesa lamb; kgou, a goose; bunqvaa, tr^^es; knomm, to hear; quaqua, a pheasant ; tkaka, a whale; horri,| 'beasts in general ; knabou, a fowling-piece ; qua-ara- ho, a vvild ox ; ouncqua, the arms ; quienkha, to falijj likhanee, a dog ; kunkequa, a captain ; quas, the neck; quan, the heart ; kgo)es, a buck or doe ; tikquoa, d god ; komma, a house ; khoaa, a cat ; kowkuri, iroiij| konkerey, a hen; thoukou, a dark night ;. tkoumej rice ; ghoudie, a sheep ; to}?i, the wind 5 ttkaa, a nU 3 ^ Id FIRST VOYAGE. 15» v; ,y ; tkaonoklau, gunpowder ; karokamma ; the heart ^. uaouWj thunder ; duckatere, a duck, kamma, water ; uayha, an ass ; naew, the ears ; kirri, a stick ; iombhai the beard ; ka-a, to drink ; duriesa, an ox ; ek-kaa, an ox of burden ; ounvie, butter ; houteo, a a-dog ; bikgua, the head ; kamma, a stag ; konquil, pigeon ; anthuri, to-morrow ; kou, a tooth ; kha<* ouna, the devil ; hakqua, horse $ koo, a son; kammo^ ammo, a stream ; tika, grass ; toqua, a wolf; koan- ua, the mouth ; khou, a peacock ; gona a boy ; gois, girl ; khpakamma, a baboon ; kcrhanehou, a star ^ u, an eye ; tquassouw, a tyger. The Hottentots have only ten numerical terms, ^•1 they repeat twice to express the multiplicatiou it t first term, and three times to express the re- ultiplication of the latter. Their terms are, q'kui, ne; k'kam, two ; kouna, three ; kakka, four ; koo, ve; nanni, six ; kounko, seven ; khissi, eight ;khas$i» ine ; ghissi, ten. Thus have we given a circumstantial and full ate* unt of the Cape, its inhabitants, productions, and Ijacent country ; from whence the French at Mauri- us are supplied by the Dutch with salted beef, bis- it, flour, and wine : the provisions for which the rench contracted this year were five hundred thousand . weight of salt beef, four hundred thousand lb. of ur, four hundred thousand lb. of biscuit, and one ousand two hundred Icagers of wine. We have only add to this account a few observations on the bay and rrison. The former is large, safe, and exceeding con- nient. It is indeed open to the N. W, winds, but ey seldom blow hard ; yet as they sometimes occasion great sea, the ships moor N. E. and S. W. The E. winds blow frequently with great fury, but their ircction being right out of the bay, prevents them from ing dangerous. For the convenience of landing and ipping goods, a wharf of wood is rua out neiir the. wn, to a proper distance. Water is conveyed in p'pcs this wharf j and many large boats and hoys are kept the company' to carry stores and provisions to and t^ CAFTAIK COOKS and from' theshtppmg in the harbour. This bay '^ covered hy a small fort ou the £. side of the town, and close to the beach ; and is also defended by stverai oilt-wovks and batteries extending along the shore, ai weU dn thi& side the town as the other ; nevertheleti they are by their sitnttion exposed to the shipping, and in a manner defenceless against an enemy of ani ibvce, by land. As to the garrison, this coiisi«t^ of eigin hundred regukr troops, besides militia of the countrr, in which last is compreliended every man able (o beai arms. By signals they c^n alarm the country In J very short time, and when they are made^ the militiij is to repair immediately^ to their place of rendezvoiul J8D the town. On the 14th of April, in the morning, we weighei stood out office or dx guns, and rendered inaccessible. " • * ' ^ A . No iCi CAPTAIN cook's No anchorge is found any where about the istandJ but at Chapel-valley bay, and as the wind always seti from the S. E. if a ship overshoots the island ever so little, she cannot recover it again. The seat of v6|. canoes has been found to be the highest part of thJ countries in which they are found. Hecla is the highest hil} in Iceland, and the t^eak of TeneriiFe 1|| known to be the covering of the subterraneous firej These are still burning: but there are other ni6untainil which bear evident marks of fire that is how extinct:! among these is St. Helena, wjhere th^ inequalities ofl the ground, and its external surface, are evidentljf the effects of the sinking of the earth, and that thnl was caused by the subterraneous fire, is equally tnani<| fest, from the stones, or some of thenr», especialij those from the bottom of tne vallies» bieing burntl almost to cinders. This island, as the Endeavour approached it on tb windwar side, appeared IHce a rude heap of rockii bounded by precipices of an amazing height, an consisting of a kind of stone, which shew> not fb least sign of vegetattion. Sailing along^ shore, i cani9 near the huge cliffs th^t seemed to bverhao the ship. At length we open^u Chapel-vailey, wtiij resembles a trench, and in this valley we discoverd the town. The sides of it are naked as the clifts ncjg the sea, but (he body is slightly clothed with herba^ In its present cultivated state, such app>eared the islao to us,' and the first hills must be passecl Wore tli country displays its verdure, or any otTier marks fertility. ^^ , In Chapel- valley, a little; beyond the lan&ing-pl was originafly a inean structure, is in riiins, an(}^ i^ark^t-place nearly in the same cohdrtioh. town consists of about fojfty or fifty. bu'ildinj[^,(i ^jractpd after the lEngl>sh jFashion,' wlilt'her thjj f c^ l^t tlie island resort wKen Any lihtppiiig ^^ppear^' FIRST VOYAGE. 163 well to assist in the defence of the island, as to enter- tain the seamen if they are friends : for the governor has always sentinels on the highest part of the island, to the windward, who give notice of the approach of all shipping, and guns are thereupon fired, that eycry man may resort to his post. It is impossible for Ian enemy to approach by sea in the night time, and |if discovered the day before, preparations are speedily Imade for his reception. Notwithstanding the island appears a barren rock Ion every side, yet on the top it is covered with a fine [layer ot earth, producing grain, fruits, and herbs of Ivarious kinds ; and the country after we ascended the [rocks, is diversified with rising hills and plains, planta- tions of fruit trees and kitchen gardens, among which the houses,of the natives are interspersed, and in the )pen fields are herds of cattle grazing, some of fvhich are fatted to supply the shipping, and the rest furnish the dairies with milk, butter, and cheese, logs, goats, turkies, and all manner of poultry, »1so abound, and the seas are well stored with fish. lut amidst all this affluence, the people have neither )read nor wine of their own growth ; for though the Boil is proper for wheat, yet the rats th«t harbour in ihe rocks, and cannot be destroyed, eat up all the seed before the grain is well out of the ground : and though their vines flourish, and produce them grapes Plough, yet the latitude is too hot for making wine. ~usthey have therefore from the Canaries, the Ma- leiras, or the Cs^pe, as well as their ilour and malt. Their very- houses are some of them brought from Europe ready fffipned, there being no tiniber on the jsland, trees not taking deep root here, on account )f the rock that lies so near the surface : however, fcey have underwood enough for necessary use^s. ^sii^s grapes, they have plantains, bananas, figs, smons^^nd such other fruits as hot countries usually )roduce. ' In the year 1701, there were upon the island about IQO (amlies, most of them £nglbh» or descended firom X 2 English / 164 CAPTAIN COOK^S English parents. Every family has a house and phnJ taiion on the higher part of the isldnd, where the? look after their castle, fruits, and kitchen garden. They scarce ever come down to the town, unless It be to church, or when the shipping arrive, when most of the houses in the valley are converted intJ punch-houses, or lodgings for their guests, to whoD) they sell their poultry, and other commodities: but they are not suffered to purchase any merchandise of the ships that touch here. Whatever they want of foreign growth or manu. facture, they are obliged tp buy in the company's warehouse, where twicp every month they may furl nish themselves with brandy, European or Capel wines, Batavia arracks, malt, beer, sugar, tea, cofFeeJ china and Japan ware, linen, calicoes, chintz, mus<| ]ins, ribbands, woollen cloth, and stuffs, and all manner of clothing; for which they are allowcdsi;! months credit. Among the very /ew native producj tions of this islan^ must be reckoned fsbony, thoughl the trees are now nearly extinct. Pieces of this woodf are frequently found in the vallies of a fine blac|c colour, and hardness almost equal to iron r thesej pieces,, however, are so short ^nd cropl^edy thnt ot use can be made of them. There are a few insects here, but upon the tops( the highest ridges a species of snail is found, whici^ has probably been there since the original creation i their kinfi. It is indeed very di(ficult to conceiv how any thing not formed here, or brought hither I the diligence of man, could find its way to a place i severed froni the re^t of the world, by seas of in mense extent. The Portuguese, who discoverd this island ii|| 1502, stored it with hogs, goats, and poultry, ysed to touch at yt fpr water and fresh provisions ii| their return from India, but we do not find they evti planted a colony here, pr if they did, having deserto it afterwards, the English East |ndia Company tc possession of the island A. D. ] ^00^ and held it til \- flftSt VOf AGE. 165 1076 Without interi'uptton, vfhen the Dutch took it )y surprise. However, the English, commanded by [Captain Munden, recovered it again within the space ^f a year, and took three Dutch Easti-India ships that lay in the road at the same time. The Hollanders lad fortified the landing-place, and placed batteries )f great guns to prevent a descent : but the English }eing afquainted with a small creek where only two jnen could go a-breast, climbed up to the top of the [ocks in the night-time, and appearing next morning It the backs of the Dutch, they threw down their irms, and surrendered the island without striking a [troke : but as we have before observed, this creek has een since fortified : so that there is now no place rhere an enemy can make a descent with any proba- bility of success, .'/'''■ 'fbe affairs of the East India Company are managed |,ere by a governor, deputy-governor, und store- housp- ieeper, who have certain settled salaries aillowed, ber (ides a public table, well furnished, to which all lommanders, masters of ships, an^ eminent passen- rersare welcome. The masters of the plantations keep a great many slacks, who, upon severe treatment, hide themselves Lr two or three months together, keeping among the [ocks by day, and roving by night for provisions : but Ihey are generally discovered and taken. 1 The children and descendants of white people have lot the least red in their cheeks, in all other places [ear the tropics: but the natives of St. Helena are re- larkable for their ruddy comple^cions and robust con- titutions. Their healthfulnets may, in genera], be scribed to the following causes : they live on the top llf a mountain always open to the sea-breezes that coiir tantly blow here : they are usually employed in the losthealt; ful exercises of gardening and husbandry: he island ^s ifrequently refreshed with moderate eool- )g showers, find no noxious fens nor sa|t;parshe$ inoy them. A? ,. ^^ to the igenijus and temper of Jb«Sje people, i\)J i^i^tpe^ to ys the roost honest, tbe most ifiofTen^ive.anjI , tJjeniost .hospitable people we evtr niet wi^h of Enffl Xisii extraction, having sc^n-^e any cincture of avaricel pX ]|ip.lpiiif)n. We as^ed spnie pf them, if they hajl . iw) Cliriosljjy to see the rest of the worlcj, and how thJ <50«14 popjjpp thenjselves to so ^mall a'spot of eartlij gep^ra|i?dat such a distance from the Test of mankindil JT^ey replied, th^t they ctn^oj^ed the necessaries of|ife| Jn, great plenty : they were; neither parched with exceJ j^1v«heat^ or pinQbetJ^^^irhcold : they lived in pt.-fcct! ^eqyrity, in,, np dao^er of epeniie^ of robbers, wiijl beasts, or rigorous seasons j and were happy intliij 'ij^/ijpyment of a continuecj st«itiBof heajth : that as thc«| Vjirij pp" rjch' men among thenij (scarce any plantfll ^eing worth more than 1000 dolliWS| so there wen pp ^ppr ifl.the island^, no insir) being worth less tbagl '400 dollars, an^ consequently not pbTlged to undeJ ippre la^ipji); 'thap^^«^^ keep them ii| jicarth^ , , , „ ' v r ' Qar (hpughts were now employed on returning to oiir native shore : and having sufficiently recruitej ;pj^T stores, on Saturday the fth pf May, we weighed j^ijd sailejd outof the road in company with the Port 3^od ma^i pf war,, and bis cprivoy, consisting of twelii ^jiil of I^st Indiamen. With this fleet we continueil our course for England until Friday the 10th, wlijf j?jcxcelvjn|; they outsailed us, and consequently migll i:i(ia^e their port before us. Captain Cook for this re ypq, made the signal tp speak to the Portland, upo >yhich Captain Elliot came on board the Endeavour; iSr'hojii a letter for the Admiralty was delivered, wiihi ^^ho:^, containing the common log-books of the shiJ and thp journals of sotne of (he officers. Wedidcii Jose sight of. the fleet till the 23d, when they parte .from us ; and about one o'clock in.the afternopn, lost pur flrst lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, an active, skilfi judicious, and usetul. officer. He died of a consumpj tion, of which lingering disorder he discovered soir symptoa flKST VOYAGE. 16^7 ; we continue! lymptoms V'^iien he left England ; so that it may he [rulv said, *hat he was dying the whole voyage. The Ivhole ship's company attended the funeral rites, and L the evening we corrtrtiitted his body to the sea with the usual ceremonies. The next day the captain ap- pointed Mr. Ciiarles Gierke, a young man, to act in the [oom of Mr. Fficks. We now every day drew nearer to our desired haven ; Ml what must be the condition of our once good ship ihe Endeavour, may easily be imagined, from a slighi': lecollection of the hardships she had surmounted, and [he dangers she had providentially escaped. At this lime our figging and s?ils were so weather beaten, that Uery day something was giving way. However we ield on our course without any material occurrence [hat might endanger our safety, till Monday the 10th }f June, when, to our great joy, Nicholas Young, the boy who discovered New Zealand, called out land from [he mast head, which proved to be the Lizard. I The next day,- being Tuesday the 1 Ith, we proceed- ed up the channel. On Wednesday the 12th, the bleasing hopes of seeing our relatives and friends, ex- iting sensations not to be described by the pen of the most able writer, we passed Beachy-Head. At noon, |o our inexpressible joy, we were a-breast of Dover j fcnd about three o'clock P. M. we came to an anchor jn the Downs. AVhen we landed at Deal, our ship's lompany indulged freely thai mirth and sociable jol- lity, common to all English sailors upon their return ffom a long voyage, who as readily forget hardships Ind dangers, as with alacrity and bravery they en- lounter them. We cannot close this book without duly considering [he wonderful protection of the Endeavour in cases of langer the most imminent, particularly when encircled tn the wide ocean, with rocks of coral, her sheathing beaten off, and her false keel floating by her side, a fo\t in her bottom, and the men by turns fainting at Ibe pumps, cannot but acknowledge the existence of a particular 168 wmmmm C ATTAIN cook's FIRST VdYAdK* a particuIar|providence. This our countrymen experU enced, and we have good authority to dssert, that our| company in the Endeavour do acknowledge, that thej hftnd of superior power was particularly concerned in their protection and deli*/crance. This omniscient and omnipotent power is the incumbent duty of eveiy christian to believe, confide in, and adbre« £ND Of the first voyage. Ji CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE TOWARDS THE South Pok oMd Round the World, ^e- Begun the 9th of April, 1772, and concluded the 31st of July, ll75. INTRODUCTION. THE King's expectations were not wholly an* swercd by former discoveries, which were so "lighly blazoned both at home and abroad i therefore lis Majesty projected this second voyage of Capr. yook, and the navy-board was ordered to equip two such ships as were most suitable to the service. Ac- cordingly two vessels were purchased ; the largest of the two, named the Resolution, burthen 462 tons, was ;nt to Deptford to be fitted out ; and the Adventure, |S36 tons, equipped at Woolwich. On the 28th of Nov. 1 77 1, Capt, Cook was ap- )inted to the command of the Resolution ; and To-^ )ias Furneaux, who had been second lieutenant with ^aptain Wallis, was promoted to the command of the adventure. The Resolution had 112 hands on loard, officers included: and the Adventure 81. In ^he former, Jami^s Cook was captain, Robert P. hooper, Charles Clerke, and Richard Pikcersgill, mt appointed lieutenants. Joseph Gilbert was laster ; James Grey, boatswain ; James Wallis, car- )euter ; Robert Anderson, gunner; and James Pat- [en, surgeon. In (he Adventure, Tobias Furneaux ivas captaii\ ; Joseph Shank, and Arthur Kemp, lieu- [eDants -, Pster Fannin was appointed master -, Edward 4 y Johns^ Illipslwiwf 170 CAPTAIN COOK S Johns, boatswain; William Offerd, carpenter ; An-i drew Gloag, gunner ; Thomas Andrews, surgeon. The two ships were got in re most expedition, and both the navy and victualling boards paid an uncommon attention to their equip. ment. Indeed Captain Cook sailed with greater ad- 1 vantages in this expedition, than any of his predeces- sors who had gone out before on discoveries. He I had the frame of a vessel of 21 tons, one for each ship, to serve occasionally, or upon any emergency, to serve as tenders: he had on board 6shing nets, lines and hooks of every kind; he was supplied with innumer- able articles of small value, adapted to the commerce of the tropical islands. The two ships were victual- .led and provided with all manner of necessaries for }| three years voyage. A proposed voyage attended with such extraordi-l nary preparations, patronized by parliament, as well as royal bounty, and the execution of which htim superintended by the first officers of the admiralty, the navy, and by Captain Cook himself, we do not hesitate to pronounce one of the most important that ever was performed in any age or by any country; and we may also with truth assert, that the able na. vigator made choice of by his Majesty, was equal to I the task in which he was embarked. Every thinking person cannot but admire his skill, his fortitude, his care of his men, his vigilance in attending to the mi'| nutest intimations of former navigators, his persever* ance amidst the dangers and hardships of- rigorous I . seasons, his prowes, in leading his company just so far as they were capable of proceeding; in short his conduct throughout, which, while he kept cv'*»'7 man singly in strict obedience to his duty, he cont iliated| the affections of all, and secured their e&.teem. CHAP. I. SECOJID V0YAG5. ni CHAP. I. The Resolution and Adventure take their departure from Deptford — Touch at the island of St. J ago — pursue their voyage to the Cape of Good Hope-," Departure from the Cape — Continue their voyage in search of a Southern Continent — Sequel of this search — Separation of the Ships, and the arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay. THE Resolution dropped down thfc river as far as Woolwich, on the 9th day of April,- i772, |at which place she was detained by contrary [winds ; but on the 22d sailed from thence to Long- iReach, where she was joinisd by her companion the adventure, and both ships took in their marines, ^uns, and ammunition. May the 10th, we sailed for Plymouth, but before we got out of the river, the lesolution was found to be very crank, on which ac- :ount we put into Sheerncss. While some alterations ^ere making in her upper works. Lord Sandwich ind Sir Hugh Palliser paid us a visit, in order to see Ihey were executed in a proper manner. The Reso- lution being again ready for sea, we departed from 5heerness. On the 2d of July we met Lord Sand- wich, intho Augusta Yacht, whom we saluted with Seventeen guns, and his Lordship, accompanied with Mr Hugh Palliser, honoured us with their presence on )oard, which was the last instance of that very great ittention they had paid to a variety of particu : rs |hat might tend to promote the success of our un- lertaking. About this time Capt. Cook received from the )oard of Admiralty his instructions, dated the 25r.h &f June, the tenor and substance of which were, that y 2 the ''-r 172 CAPTAIN COOK S the Adventure was ♦ be under his command; that the two ships were to, proceed to the island of Madeira,] from thence to the Cape of Good Hope : and having] at this place refreshed the ships' companies, and sup.! plied them with provisions ilnd Other necessaries, they] were to make the best of their way to the southward,! in search of Cape Circumcision, which, by M. BouvctJ h ^aidtbbe in lat. 54 de^. S. and in ab6«>t 11 'deg.20 min.E. long, from the Royal Observatory ita the^arll at GTcenwich ; that if they fell in with this Cape, Captain Cook was to endeavour, by all means in bill power, to discover whether the same was part of thel supposed continent which had so much ^'mployed tlie| natiopal attention of different European powers, orl only the promontory of an island : that, in eitherl case, the gentlemen on board the two shijps w6re m ligently to explore the same, to the utmost exttntj possible; and to make such observations '6f varioml kinds, as mifght correspdnd with the grand object inl view, and be rn any respect useful either to ttavigatibol or commerce; not omitting at the same time, propyl remarks on the genius and temper of the inhabitannj whose frtend^ip and alliance they were directed tol conciliate, by all probable motives, and prudential| means in their power: that they \vere to proceed qI hew discoveries to the eastward or westward, as tbej captains might judge most eligible, endeavdtiring onl] to run into as high a latitude, and as near the Souikl Pole as possible ; that whatever might be the nm bf their investigations with respect to Cape CircuiJ jbision, they were to continiie their surVeys to tM southward, and then to the eastward, either in'searcii| of the said continent, should it not have been ascer| tained, or to make discoveries of such islands as inigb be seated in the hitherto Unexplored and unknot parts of the southern liatitudes; that, havihg circuit navigated the globe, they were to return to Spithei hy the way of the Cape of ps )e separated, the 'island of Madeira ibr the Brst place )f rendezvous. Port Praya for 'the second, the Cape )f Good Hope for the third, and New Zealand for the fourth. While we remained at Plymouth, our astronomers, Ir. Wales and Mr. Bayley, made observations on ike's island, when the lat. was found to be 50 deg. ttmin. 30 sec. N. and the long. 4- deg. rflO min. W. of rreenwich ; whereby the true time for putting.the time }leces and watches in ^motionwas ascertained. This fds done on the 10th of July, and they were set)a*go- ng in the presence of the two astronomers. Captain 'ook Captain Furneaux, and the twoiirst lieutenants )f the ships. They >had each of them keys of the boxes /hich contained the watches, and were always to^be )resentatthe winding themup, and comparing the one nth the other, unless prevented by indisposition. Gn the 12th of July, the 'Resolution broke from ^er moorings in the sound, and was adrift, together Tith the transport buoy to which she was fasfned.-— ippiiillllpp 174 CAPTAIN COOK S All hands were on deck instantly, the cables werd cleared, and the sails spread. We passed the Adven ture, and came to an anchor, after having escaped tli very apparent danger of being dashed against the rock which are under the fort. This favourable event wa looked upon by the seamen as an omen to the gc success of the voyage. On the 13th, the two ships sailed from Piyaioutlii Sound, in company, and passed the Eddystone, whicii| is a lofty well contrived tower, ot the utmost advan t age to navigation and commerce. As we stood shore, the wind increased, and the billows rolle higher and higher. On the 20th we fell in with Capel Ortegal, on the coast of Galicia. The sea now gre*| perfectly calm, and the prospect which surrounded i was ver) delightful. When in sight, of Cape Finij. terre, bearing W. S. W. seven or eight leagues, wJ were met by a small French Tartan from MarseilleJ freighted with flour from Ferrol and Corunna. Wd obtained from them a small supply of fresh waterj which we much wanted, having been obliged to sub sist on bread and sour wine. On the 22d, in the afternoon, we passed twol Spanish men of war, one of which 6red a shotattbe^ Adventure to bring her to ; but on bailing her, aDil| being told we were king's ships, made a proper apo logy, and very politely took leave, wishing us a goo voyage. On the 29th, about nine at- night, we anchored ill Funchiale road, in the island of Madeira. After harj ing saluted the garrison with eleven guns, and the had returned the compliment, we went on shore companied by Mr. Sills, a gentleman from the vie consul, to the house of Mr. Loughnans, a considerabij English merchant, who assisted us with every accon modation the island and house afforded, during stay. — Here the ^oflicers and private men furnishe themselves with such stocks of wine as they could coo vcniently purchase. r?.-iAV- SECOND VOYAGE. 17 J On tlie 1st of August, having stowed on board a ftupply 0^ water, wine, and other necessaries, we set lil, lost sight of Madeira, and stood to the southward, nth a gentle gale at N. E. On the 4th, we saw the aleasant island of Palma, bearing S. S. W. distant [bout three or four leagues. And on Wednesday the ^th, we passed the isle of Ferro, at the distance of jurtcen leagues. Having departed from Madeira on the 1st of Au- gust, on the 9th we ossed the Tropic of Cancer, |nd at nineir the morning came in sight of Bonavista, taring S. V. by W. about ten leagues. On the 10th we passed the island of Mayo, on our larboard side, and a two P. M. came to an anchor in Jghteen fathom water, in Port Praya, in the isle of St. [ago, one of the Cape de Verds. An officer was sent h shore for leave to procure what refreshments we [anted, which was readily granted ; and on his re- we saluted the fort with eleven guns. Hf re )th ships were supplied with plenty of good water. Te also recruited our live stock, such as hogs, goats, id poultry, some of which continued alive during the pmainder of the voyage. On the 14th, both ships having got on board a sup- |y of refreshments and provisions, we weighed anchor, fit to sea, and continued our voyage to the Cape ot )od Hope. On the 16th, in the evening, a luminous |ry meteor made its appearance ; it was of a blueish [lour, an oblong shape, and had a quick descending ption. After a momentary duration, it disappeared jthe horizon. Its course was N. N. W. jOnthe 19th, one of the carpenter's mates fell over- ifd, and was drowned. He was sitting on one of scuttles, from whence it was supposed he fell. All It endeavours to save hind were in vain, for he was It seen till the instant he sunk under the ship's stern. |e felt his loss very sensibly, he being a sober man, /ell as a good workman ; and he was much regret- even by his shipmates. On "^ 176 CAPTAIK COOK S On the 20th, the rain descended, not in drops, but in streams, and at the san^e tinie, the wind was squ^jJ and variable, so that the people were obliged to kecal deck, and of course had atl wet jackets, an inconveni.! ence very common, and often experienced by seamen;! However, this disagreeable circumstance wa^ atteiuiedl with good, as it gave us an opportunity of spreadiMl our awnings, and filling seven empty puncheons wii' freshwater. On the 27th, one of Captain Furneiux*s petty o&l qers died on board the Advefiture : but on board tbij Resolution, we had not one man sick, although a de«)} of rain fell, which, in such hot climates, is a gtm promoter of sickness. Captain Cook took every necfjl sary pi^caution for the preservation of our health, airing and drying the ship with fires made betwe decks, and making the crew air their bedding, an wash their clothes, at every opportunity. Two were punished on board the Adventure ; one a priva marine for quarreling with the quarter-master, ti other a common sailor, for theft. ^K:h of them ceiving one dozen. This we mention to shew wh strict discipline it was necessary tof»reserve on boari| in order to establish a regular and peaceable behavion in such hazardous voyages, when men, uaaccustoiot to controul, are apt to prove mutinous. On Tuesday, September the 8th, uire crossd (1; line in longitude 8 degi W. Some of the crew, wji had never passed the line before, were obliged to dergo the usual ceremony of ducking;; but bought themselves off, by paying the required k of brandy. Those who submitted to an immersio found it very salutary, as it cannot well be done! often in warm weather, and a frequent change litiefi and clothes is exceeding refreshiivg. Qq Hth, a fiying fish fell on our deck; ytp cs*wghtseR ral dolphins ; saw some aquatic birds^ and, at varii intervals, observed the sea covered with niiiob iess animals. On Sunday the 37^h, a sail Vf9S di$ SECOND VOYAGE. 17T ivered to the W. standing nfter us ; she appeared to jbe a snow, and shewed either Portuguese colours, or Ist. vJeoriff's ensign. Wc «iid not choose to wait till Ishe approached nearer, or to speak to her. On Monday the J2fh, the weather being calm, we imuscd ourselves with shootinj^ sea-Fowl. We were )W accor»ipan»»ed by sheer waters, pintadoes» &c. ind \»\' a snnat) grey petrel. This lasf is less than a >igeon, ha« a grey b^ick, whitish belly, and a black Itrukc across the lip ot one wing to that of the other. These are southern birds, and, we believe, never ^een within the tropics, or north of the line. They risited us in great Htghr« ; and about the same timo re taw several animals of the molusca kind, within ^ur reach, together with a violet coloured fthell, hf a remarkably thin texture, and therefore seenai [alculated to keep the open s^a^ and not tocomo sar rocky places, it being e!astly broken. Saturday 17th, we discovered a saU to the N. W. which ioisted Dutch colours. She kept us company tv^b lys, but on the third we out-sailed hen From the |2th to this day, we had the wind between the N; jndE. a gentle gale. On Wednesday the 21st one ititude was 35 deg. 20 min. S. and our longitude deg. 4 min. 30 sec. £. From this time to the 23d, le wind continued easterly, when ft veered to the I. and N. W. After some hours calm, we saw a ^al, or as'soine thought, a sea lion. The wind now icdarN. W. which carried osto our intended porK we drew near to the land^' the sea fowl, v^hicH accompanied us hitherto, began to leave ust least, they did not appear in such numbers : nor |d we see gannets, or the black bird, commonly cal^ Id the Cape hen, till we were nearly' within sight of ]c Cape. On Thursday tiie 2(^th; stt two o'clock M. we made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, |paii!cular description of which is given >n the nrist »yagt. The Table Mountain, over the Cape ToWfi rre £. S. £. distant twelve or four^eetii^ leagues: had k . :Z E- ''i'^i'^i '■ it n tm IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ^/ ^ ,5^. ^ 'If ^ ^ 1.0 1.1 Ht 1.0 IL25 IHU 2.0 1.6 .Sciences Corporation 23 IVKT MAIN STRUT WIPSTfR. I4.Y. UStO {iU) •72-4S03 '^ \ ^ 6^ mmi 178 CAPTAIN COOK S it not been obscured by clouds, it might, from its heif^ht, have been at a much greater distance. Friday the 50th wc stood into Table Bay, with the Adventure in Company, and anchored in five fathom water. We were now visited by the masiep i attendant of the fort, some other officers belonging to| the company, and Mr. Brandt. This last gentleman brought off to us many articles that were very ac«{ ceptable ; and the mastepattendant, as is cU'ito:i)ary, took an account of the two ships, enquiring particu*! larly if the small-pox was on board, a disorder dread* ed above all others by the inhabitants of the CapeJ tor which reason a surgeon always attends on these] 'visit$. This day Captain Cook sent an officer to wait upool Baron Plettenberg, the governor, to inform h m oil Our arrival, to which he returned a pi»lite answer;! and on the return of our officer, we saluted the toitl with eleven guns,' which compliment was acknowj lejdgcd by Ihe^ame numbec. ; ^ \ ■^ Having visited the governor and some of thtl Srincipal inliiabitants, we took up our abode at Mrj kandt's« the usual residence * of most officers bclonM ing to English ships. With respect to accommodij tion, thi^ gentleman spared neither pains nor expenc in order to favour him wijh their company We co» certed measures with Mr. Brandt for supplying us wid provisions, &c. all which he procured without dt jay, while our men on board were employed in ove hauling the rigging, and the carpenters in cauikin thie ship's sides, &c. At the same time, Mr. Wak and Mr. Bay ley made observations for regulatin the watches, and other purposes. The result jthese was, that Mr. Kendal's wRtch had answen jbeyond our expectations, by determining the loQ{i| tude of this place to within one minute of time jwfhat it waa observed in 1761, by Mess. Mason .Pickson. During our stay here, Mr> Forster, who tmplof ;his time wholly in the pursuit of natural history bota SECOND VOYAGE. 179 botany, met with one Mr. SpArman, a Swedish gen- tleman, who had studied under I.innasus;. Mr. Forster importuned strongly Captain Cook to take him aboard ; and Mr. Sparman being willing to enr.bark, the captain consented ; and he was engaged under \fr. Forster, who bore his expences on board, and> lallowed him a yearly stipend besides. !* On the 1 8th, we had got every thing on board • Ibut it was the 22d before wc could put to sea. In Ithis interval the crews of both ships were served levcry day wi.h fresh beef, or mutton, new baked jbread, and what quantity of greens they thought sufficient ; and the two ships, in every respect, were )ut in aagood condition as when they left England. Lt this time some removes took place in the Adven cure. The fir.-»t lieutenant, Mr. Shanks, desired leave io resign, in order to return to England for the reco- very of his health, which was granted. Mr. Kemp, m appointed first lieutenant, and Mr. Rurncy, one of our midshipmen, was made second lieutenant, in (he room oi Mr. Kemp. On the 22d, we repaired on board, having first laken leave of the governor and other officers who, |n a most obliging manner, had afforded us all the necessary assistance we required. At three o'clock p M. we weighed, and saluted the fort with fifteen 5uns, which compliment was instantly returned. We jiow stood alf night to the westward, to get clear of [he land, during which time, we directed our course, bordered, to Cape Circumcision. We had a mode* Jtegale from the N. W. point untii the 2Mh, when |he wind shifted to the eastward. This day, by observation at noon, we found cur- sives to be in 35 deg. 25 mln. S. lat. and 29 min. p. of the Cape of Good Hope. As we were now (irectinif our course towards the antartic circle, and [xpectcd to encounter soon with cold weather, the pptain ordered a waste of fresh water to be as much |s possible prevented ; at the same tim'f, he supplied ichman with a fearnought jacket and trowsers, al- Z 2, lowed 180 CAPTAIN COOK S lowed by the Admiralty, and also slops to such who wanted them. On the 29th« a heavy storm came from the N. N. W. with a few intervals of moderate weather for nedHv a week. On Sunday, December the 6th, we w^re in lat. 48 deg. 41 min. S. and in 18 deg. 24 min £. lonj^. The fttorm continued, and the roaring of the wav«, together with hail, rain, and a great agitation ot' the vessel, were cirrumstances thai /endered our situation disagreeable. A boy in the fore part of the ship, hearing a noise of water running among the chests, turned out, and found himself half way up the leg in water ; upon which all hands worked at the pumps, | but the water increased upon us. Ihis was at last discovered to come through a scuttle in tHe boat- swain's store room. 1 his gale, attended with hail I and rain, continued till the 8th with such fury, that we could carry no sails; and being driven by thisj means far to the eastward of our intended course, not] the least hope remained of our reaching Cape Circum* cision. Our distress was augmented by the lo^sofil great part of the live stock we had brought from the| Cape. Every man felt the effects of the sudden tran- sition from warm to extreme cold weather; for whijj reason an addition was made to the men*s allowance | of brandy in both ships. On the morning of the 7th, the sun gave us a flat- tering prospect of serene weather ; but our exnec- tations soon vanished ; the barometer was unusually I low; and by one o'clock P. M. the wind, which wa at N. W. blew with such violence, as obliged usto| Strike our top-galUnt-masts. On the 8th, the was somewhat abated ; but the sea ran too high for| us to cusky Bay, the island that lay at the mouth of it havj ingdeceived him. I n e now proceeded for Dusky Bay, in New Zca-I land, but with much caution as we advanced nfarerl the land. We passed several islands, &c. and twj leagues up the bay an officer was sent out to look fori anchorage, which he found, and signified it by signill Here we anchored in 60 fathoms water, and very neitl the shore. This joyful circumstance happened on tbel 26(h of March, after we had been 117 days at so,! and sailed 3660 leagues, without so nauch as oncel seeing land. We had much reason to be thankfultj the Divine Providence, that no untoward accident hi befaiic*: us, and that our crew were in good health. CHAP. II. A narrative of ivhat happened in Dusky Bay—Inttrl views with the natives — Sails to Charlotte^ s Sound- Is there joined by the Adventure — Transactions i this place • - Capt Furneaux*s narrative — The m proceed to the island of Otaheite, and their arrin^ there — Are in a critical situation. THE country appeared beautiful and pies The isla: .ds we passed, before our entrance inlj Dusky Bay, were shaded with evergreen, and coven with woods ', the vanous shades of the autumnal yelloij intermixei SECOND VOYAGE. 187 intermixed with evergreens, exhibited a delightful contrast. As soon as we anchored wc caught great nunil)ersof fish, which eagerly took the bait laid for them. Our first meal upon fish here was looked upon as the most delightful we had ever made. Capr. Cook did not like the place in which we anchored, and sent Ijeut. Pickersgill in search of a better, which he soon [found. The captain liked it, and called it Pickersgill Iharbour. This we entered on the 27th of March, by la channel which was scarcely twice the width of the jsbip. In this place we determined to stay some time, and examine it thoroughly, as no one had evf^r entered it sfore, or landed on any of the southern parts of this country. Our situation was admirable for wood and rater. Our yards were locked in the branches of irees, and near. our stem ran a delightful stream of fresh water. We made preparations on shore for laking all necessary observations, and perform neces- iry repairs, &c. &c. We had not hitherto seen any appearance of inhabi- mts ; but on the 28th, some of the ofiictfrs went on a khooting party in a small boat, and discovered them, Ind returned to acquaint Capt. Cook therewith. Very khortly a canoe came filled with them, within musket Ihot of the ship. They stood looking at us for some lime, and then returned ; we could not prevail upon Ihem to come any nearer, notwithstanding we shewed [hem every token of peace &nd friendship. Capt. Cojlc n\\i several of the officers and gentlemen, went in irch of them the same day. We found the canoe haul- ed upon the shore, where were several huts, with Hre places and fishing-nets, but the people had probcibl^ pired into the woods. We made but a short stay, ind lefi in the canoe some medals, looking-glasseiiy ic. D jt choosing to search any further. Two parties ^ent out the next day, but returned without finding ny thing worth notice. On 188 CAPTAIN cook's * * • On the 6th of April we made a shooting party, and found a capacious cove, where we shot sevrral ducks; on which account we called it Duck Cove. We had an interview with one man and two women, as we returned in the eveninf^, who were natives, and I tlie Hrst that discovered themselves; and had not the man hallooed to us, we should have passed with- out seeing them. The man stood upon the point of a rock, with a club in his hand, and the women were behind him with spears. As we approached, the man discovered great signs of fear, but stood firm ;nor would he move to take up some things that were thrown to him. His fears were all dissipated by Capt. Cook's going up to embrace him ; the captain gave him such things as he had about him. The officers and! seamen followed the captain, and talked some timeto them ; though they could not understand them. In thii conversation, the youngest of the women bore thel greatest share. A droll sailor remarked, that the wo- men did not want tongue in any part of the world. )Ve were obliged to leave them on the approach of nighlij but before we parted, Mrs. Talkative gave us a dance. On the 7th we made them another visit, and pie*| sented them with several things ; but they beheld everfl thing with indifference, except hatchets and spike naibj We now saw all the man's family, as we supposed/ which consisted of two wives, the young woman m\ mentioned before, a boy about fourteen years old, an three small children. They were well favoured, exccpt-l ing one womlan who had a large wen upon her upper! lip, and who, on account of her disagreeable app€l^| ■nee, seemed to be neglected by the man. We werel conducted to their habitation, which consisted of twol mean huts, situated near the skirts of a wood. Theitl 6anoe lay in a small creek, near the huts, and was jtutl large enough to transport the whole family from plaeej to place. A gentleman of our party made sketchesi them, which occasioned their calling him Toe ToeJ which, it seems, is a word which signifies markingfltj painting. On taking leave, they presented Capur SECOND VOYAGE. 189 Cook with some trifles, and a piece of cloth of their own manufacture ; and pointed to a boat-clonk which he wished to have. The hint was taken, and one was [ordered to be oiadefer him of red baize. On the 9th we paid the natives another visit, and jsignified our approach b> hallooing to them : but they Ineither met us on shore, nor answered us as usual ; the Ireison of which was* that their time was fully occupied lin dressing themselves to receive us. Tliey had their Vir (tombed and oiled, stuck with white feathers, and tied upon the crowns of their heads, and had bunches of feathers stuck in their ears. We were received by them with great courtesy in their dress. The man was Lo well pleased with the present of the cloak, that he look his patta-patoe from his Kide, and eave it to Cap- jain Cook. We continued bore a little t^r.)e,and then [ook leave, spending the rest of the dr^y "ii surveying Ihc bav. On Monday the 12th, this family paid us a visit in |he canoe, but proceeded with caution as they ap- koached the ship. We could not by any means pcr- [uade them to come on board, but put ashore in a littie creek near us. Captain Cook ordered the bag- pipes to play, and the drum to beat; the latter tnly they regarded. They conversed very familiarly (though not well understood) with such officers and samen as went to them, and paid a much greater re- i[ard to some than to others; we supposed that ley took such for women. One of the females shew- |d a remarkable fondness for one man in particular. Wil she found out his sex : after which she would not Et him approach her. We cannot tell whether she had kefore taken him for a female, or whetherin discovering |iimself, he had taken some liberties with her. In the evening, the natives of Dusky Bay took up leir quarters very neai our watering-place, which wes clear proof that they placed a great deal of ccnfi- ^ence in us. We passed two or three days in exa- ining the bav, in making necessary experiments and IbBcrvationi. We likewise shot great quantities of fowl. r - Oa / 190 CAPTAIN CObK^S On the 19th, the man and his daughter before men. tioned ventured on board our ship, wmie the rest of the family were fishing in the canoe. Before the man would come into the ship, he struck the sjde of it with a greeo | branchrand muttered somewords^ which we took for a prayer ; after which he threw away the branch and came on board. They viewed every part of the cablo 'with apparent curiosty and surprize; but we could not fix the man*s attention to any one thing for a moment. All we shewed him seemed beyond his comprehension, and the works of nature and art were alike regarded. The strength and number of our decks and other part$ of the ship, seemed to strike him with surprise. The man was still better pleaded with hatchets and 8pik^ nails, than any thing our ship produced ; when he had{ once got possession of these, he would not quit them. Captain Cook and three other gentlemen left thel ship as soon as they could disengage themselves from] the visitors, whom they lef^ in the gun-room, and vteotj out in two boats to examine the head of the bay; atl which place they took up their night's lodging; thel next day they continued their observations ; and firedl at some ducks. Upon the report of the gun, the nativ«i| Vfho had not discovered themselves before, set up il most hideous roar in different places. The gentlemeii| hallooed in their turn, and retreated to their boats. Tbtl natives did not follow them, neither indeed could thejj because a branch of the river separated them, buti made a great noise. As they continued shooting andl making their observations, they frequently heard {h\ natives in the woods. A man and a woman ap at last on the banks of the river, waving somethingiij their hands as a token of friendship. The gentlei could not get near them, and the natives retreated inli the woods. Two others appeared, but as the gentlit advanced, they retreated likewise, and the afforded them thick cover. The captain and his pari passed the next night in the same place, and aftd breakfast embarked to return on board s but saw tv me SECOND VOYAGE. 191 men on the opposite shore, who hallooed to them, and L^ey were induced to row over to them. Captain Cook with two other gentlemen landed un- Isrmed, and advanced all together, but the natives re- treated, nor would they stand still till Captain Cook vent up alone. It was with some difficulty that he prevailed with one of them to lay down his spear ; at latt he did, and met the captain with a grass plant in Ihis hand, giving Captain Cook one end to hold, while le himself held the other. In this position they stood [while the natives made a speech, which the captain did Inot understand, but returned some sort of answer ; they then saluted each other, and the native took his coat from his back, and put it on the captain. He then Ipresented each of them with a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with him- They invited the gen»- llemen to their habitation, and wanted them to eat, }Ut the tide prevented their accepting of this invitation. The two natives accompanied the gentlemen to the ^oats, but seemed very much agitated at the appear- ances of the muskets, which they looked upon as in^ ^truments of death, on account of the slaughter they bad observed among the fowls. It was necessary to ratch them, for they laid their hands on every thing jxcept the muskets. On the 24th, Captain Cook took five geese and a rander, which were all that remained of those brought romthe Cape of Good Hope, and carried them to a |;ove, which on this account he called Goose-cove ; this ^as a convenient place, for they were not likely to be iisturbed by the inhabitants, there was plenty of food )r them, and they were likely to breed and spread [he country with their species. We had now several lays fair weather, which gave us a fine opportunity ^f making necessary preparations for our departure. On the 27th, we found an arm of the sea more con- Irenient than that by which we entered the bay. All Ve now waited for was wind to carry us out of the jiarbour by the new passage we had discovered. The ibbish we had made on shore, which chiefly consisted of A 192 CAPTAIN COOK S of pieces of wood, &c. we set on fire, in order to drv the ground, which bein^ done. Captain Cook sowed | the «pot with various sorts of garden seeds. We made I several efforts to sail, but the wind proving contrary, we made but little way, and were oblieed to anchor on the first of May, on the north sidle pf Long Island, Before we leave Dusky Bay, we think it necessary to give our readers some description of it. There are two entrances into this bay, which arebJ no means dangerous ; and there are numerous anchor- ing places, which are at once safe and commodious. The country is very mountainous, and the prospect iij rude and craggy. The land boMering on the sea-coagt,| and all its lands, are covered with wood. There are trees of various kinds, which are common in other countries, the timber of which is remarkably fine, flerel are likewise a great number of aromatic plants, and thcj woods are so over-run with supple-jacks, that it isdiC cult to make way through them. The soil is undoub|.| edly composed of decayed vegetables, which makeil deep black mould ; it is very loose, and sinks at eveijl step. Except flax and hemp, there is iittle herbage. I The inhabitants of Dusky Bay are the ?ame witlil those in other parts of New Zealand ; they speak tbel same language, and adopt the same customs. It is notl easy to divine what could induce these few families to| separate themselves from the society of the rest of thci^ iellow-creaMires. It seems probable that there are peo pie scattered all over this southern island, by our meet] ing with inhabitants in this place. They appeared ti[ lead a wandering life, and don't seem to be in perfei amity with each other. On the 1 Ith of May, we again made sail, but nd with more obstructions. We observed on a suddeni whitish spot on the sea, out of which a column ar which looked like a glass tube. It appeared that ano ther of the same sort came down from the clouds I meet this, and they made a coalition and formed wh^ SSCOND V0YA6£. 193 is called' a water-spout ; several others were formed I in the same manner soon after. As we were not very well acquainted with the na- [ture and cause of these spouts, we were very curious ■in examining them. Their base was a broad spot, Iwhich looked bright and yellowish when the sun shone jpon it ; this appeared when the sea was violently agitated, and vapours rose in a spiral form. The co** iurnns were like a cylinder, and moved forward on [he surface of the sea, and freouently appeared cros- liog each other, they at last broke one after another ; this was owing to the clouds not following them with Equal rapedity. The sea appeared more and more Covered with short broken waves as the clouds came bearer to us ; the wind veered about, and did not fix in ly one point. Within 200 yards of us, we saw a ^t in the sea in violent agitation ; the water ascend- ed in a spiral form towards the clouds ; the clouds 9ked black and louring^ and sptne hail-stones fell on md. A cloud gradually tapered into a long slender ibe directly over the agitated spot, and seemed de-^ tending to meet the rising spiral, and soon united ^itb it. The last water spout broke like the others, no [plosion was heard, but a flash of lightning attended ^is disjunction. On the 18th of May, at five o'clock in the morn- kg, we opened Oueen Charlotte's Sound, and saw . Iree flashes arising from a strong hold of the natives. re imagined them to be signals of the Europeans,. |id probably of our old friends in the Adventure s '^en we fired some guns, we were answered, and in liort time saw the Adventure at anchor. We were |lu(ed by Captain Furneaux with 13 guns, which we cheerfully returned i none can describe the joy felt at this most happy meeting. Bb The .«*.Ai**-»V '• ' 194 CAPTAIK COOK S JTie fdlloiving is a narrdtivo of Captain Furncaux\ •' proceedings, and of the various incidents that hap\ -« pened ditriiig the separation of the two ships ^ to tkir\ • joining again in 2ueen Charlotte's Sound, THE Adventure, en the 4th of Fcbhiaryi I775,j aftbr having lost sight of the Resolution, ina| Very thick fog, had ho other means of again meeting '^with her, but by cruizing ill the plice where thcfl parted conipany, or by repairing to Charlotte Bi^J the fii it appointed place of rendezvous, in case such i| misfortune should happen. Soon after their sepan tion, the people of the Adventure heard a gun, tli teport of which they judged to be on the larboail beam : upon which they hauled up S. £. and fired^ four-pounder every half hour, but receiving no retun tior sight of their companions, they kept the coun they had steered before the fog came o^b. In I evening it began to blow hard. The storm was i tended with a prodigious fall of rain> every drop! size of a common pea; and the sea broke overti ship^s bows to the height of the yard arms; yet, I intervals the weather was more clear. They th stood to the westward, to cruize in the latitude last saw her in, according to agreement, in case i -separation ; but the storm returned with renewed ^ and the Weather being again exceeding hazy, were again cottipelled to bring to, which untov circumstance prevented them from reaching thei tended place ; however, they cruized* as near same as they could for three days, when, after hatij kept beating about the seas, in the most terrible i tber that any ship could possibly endure, andgr all hopes over of joining their lost companion, bore away for winter quarters, 1400 leagues disa from them ; and, having to traverse a s'la entirclyi known, they took every precaution for their sa and reduced the allowance of water to one quaitl ^ay for each seaman. SECOND VOYAGE. 195 On the 8th, they kept between the lat. 52 and 53 deg. S. and reached to 95 deg. E. long. They had here hard gales from the W. attended with snow, sleet, and a lon^ hollow sea from the S. W. And what is more remarkable, after ouf separation from the Resolution, to our making land, we saw but one of the ice islands, though in the most part of our long run,' we were ? or 3 deg. S. of the lat. in which we Ifirst met with them. nv. ^e On the 24th of March, we shipped many waves, I one of which stove the large cutter, and with difficuhy we prevented the smstll one from being washed over- board. After this heavy gale, we had more temperate weather, accompanied with calms. At length we I made the coast of Ne*v Zeakmd, in 40 deg. 30 min. S. lat. having 24 deg. of long, from Adventure ~ay, in a passage of 1 5 days. On the 5th of April, we worked up to .windward lunder Point Jackson. We fired severs^l guns while standing off and on, but saw not any inhabitants. At half past two anchored in thirty-nine' fathoms water. At eight weighed and made sail. On the 6th, at eight o'clock, had the Sound open, and worked up [under the western shore, and anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms water, and moored the best bower to I the N. N. E. In the night heard the howling of dogs, and the people hallooing on the east shore. Captain Furneaux ordered the large cutter tb' be I manned, and sent her with a proper guard, to ex^[ mine whether there were any signs of the Resolution I having arrived at that harbour. The boat returned j without the least discovery. Upon this we instantly prepared to send the tents, ashore, for the accommoda* lion of those who were sfck of the scurvy ; while such ,y\rho enjoyed health were very alert in catching fish, which proved of great service in recovering our sick, tp whom firesh provisions were both food and physic. On the 9th, three canoes came alongside the Adven- ture, having 15 Indians of both sexes, armed with bat- tle axes, aiid with other offensive weapons, made of - '-.- Bb9 hard 196 CAPTAIN COOKS hard wood, in form of our officers' spontoons, and about four feet in length ; but they had neither bowi nor arrows. A kind of mop was wrapt round their ahoulders, and tied about their waists with a girdle made of grass. Both men and women exhibited a most savage appearance, and were very unwilling to come on board The captain made them presents, and by signs invited them to trade. They accepted the presents, and some of them assumed courage enough to trust themselves on deck. One of our gentlemen, seeing something wrapt up, had the curiosity to examine what it was, when, to his great surprise, he found it to be the head of a mao, which, by its bleeding, seemed to be fresh cut off. iVs Captrin Cook had expressed his abhorrence of such 'unnatural acts, the Indians were very apprehensive of I its bemg forced from them, and the man to whom it | belonged trembled for fear of being punished. The; therefore, with surprising dexterity, in order to con* ceal the . head, shifted it from one to another, till it | was conveyed out of sight ; e.deavouring at the same time to convince us by signs, that no such thing wai| in their possession. Soon after they left the ship, and went on shore, I not without some visible signs of displeasure. In this visit they often mentioned the name of Tupia, and upon being informed that he died at Batavia, some of them with much concern, enquired, whether we killed] him, or he died a natural death ? By these questions, we concluded these Indians were some of the same tribe who had visited the Endeavour. They returned in the afternoon with fish, and fern roots, which they bartered for nails, to them the most valuable articles; but the man and woman who bad the head, were not among them. Having a catalogue of words in their language, we called several things by name, at whicii thdy seemed much surprized, and offered a quantity of ^sh for the catalogue. ^ On the 10th, about eight in the mortiing, fife double canoes came along,side the. Adventure, withj SECOND VOYAGE. 197 sboutSO Indians, at the head of whom was th.'ir chief. ra^e purchased of them for nails and bottles, their im- plements of war, stone hatchets, cloth, 8ec. upon which they set a high price. Several of their head men came )n bord, nor would they quit the ship by fair means ; jt upon presenting a musket with a bayonet 6xed, ^hey quickly took leave of us, seemingly in great good )uinour ; and arterwards they visited us daily, bringing rith them fish in abundance, which they exchanged lor nails, beads, and other trifles. They behaved zaccably, and having disposed of their cargoes, de- parted at all times seemingly well pleased. We now placed a guard on a little island, which, at )W water, is joining to Nlortuara, called the Hippah, ^t which place was an old fortified town, that had been Abandoned by the natives. We took possession of their buses, and, by sinking a fort within-side, made them [ery comfortable. Here our astronomer erected his Observatory ; at the same time we struck our tents on lortuaraj and having run further into the cove with le ship, we moored her for the winter, on the west lore, and gave her a winter coat to preserve her hull ; ben after sending on shore, the spars and lumber, for be decks to be caulked, we pitched our tents near the [iver, at the watering-place. On the 12th, the weather continuing fair, and the [ndians friendl3r, the captain and officers were prepar- )g to go ashore, when, about nine A. M. no less than cncanoes came paddling down the sound. We count- Id 120 natives, all armed. When alongside of the ship, ley expressed a desire to be admitted on board ; but paptain Furneaux not liking their looks and gestures, vie orders that a few only should be admitfed at atime. lese behaved so disorderly, that the sailors were [bliged to tqrn them out, and it now appeared plainly lat the iptention of our new visitors was to make them- elves masters of the ship : however, finding the crew D be on their guard, they became niore civil, but not [efore a great gun was discharged over their hieads, which #. «« 19S CAPTAIN COOK S vhich alope intinoidated them. Bein^ thus reduced to order, the people on board produced several arti. cles, such asbe§ds, clasp knives, scissars, cloth, paper and other trifles, which they bartered for battle axcj ' spears, wc^pops of various sorts, fish-hooks ai^d other curiosities, the manufacture of the country. [ Three months were now elapsec) since the Adveij. tMre lost sight of the Resolution ; but on the 17th,sy yf^9 seen at Jackson's Point. We immediately sentl O^^ t)0^ts to ber assistance, it beino^ calm, to tow M into the spund. In the evening she anchored about i| mile without us, an4 the next morning weighed M ^^avped within us. Having thus related the progress of the Advcntua we now cofne to record the transactions of both ship ';iftcr their junction r h were little more th^n a repi tion of the Adventure's distresses to recapitulate tflTects oJFthe boisterous weather that were felt bytii. crew of the Resolution -, being sometimes surroundJ with islf^ndfs of* ice, out of which they could not extn cate thprnselves by the utmost exertions of their skillii{ (^^pfiapship'i sometiipes involved in sheets qf sleet ai snow, anq ip inists so dark, that a man on the fon castle couid not be seep ^om the auarter-deck ; son times the sea rolling mountains high, while the runnio tackle, m^a^e brittle by the severity qf the frost, was^ duentjy snapping, and sometimes rendered immoveab^ Ami4 the hardships of such a traverserthere is nothii ippre astonrsning, than that the crew should contliJ in perfect heaJth, scarce ^ m^n being so ill as to beii| capable of duty, ^othine can redound more to theiJ nourpf Captain C?pok, tnan his paying pafticulan tentionto the preservation of healtn among hjs comp |)y. By ob^rv^pg th^ strictest discipline fropithehi^' est to the lowestl his commands were duly observ and punctually execqted. When the service was hati he tenipered the severity thereof, by frequently reljei ing thipse ^rnployeid in the perfbrniance, anij havingi hands at comn^ahdj he wa^i never qnd^r the necessi iECOMD VOYAGE. 199 lof continuing the labour of any set of men beyond Uhat their strength and their spirits could bear. Having by this means left no spare time for gaming, quarrelling, or rioting, he kept them in action, and punished drunkenness with tne utmost severity ; and Ithus by persevering in a steady line of conduct, he was lenabled to keep the sea till reduced to a very scanty Iportion of water ; and when he dispaired of finding any Inew land, and had fully satisfied himself of the hon- lexistence of any continent in the quartek he last tra- Iversed, he directed his course to Charlotte'is Sound, the Iplace appointed for both ships to rendezvous in cdse of Iseparation, and appeared off the same (as has been al;> heady related) on Tuesday the 18th of May, 1773 : and Ibere we discovered our consort the Adventure, by the [signals she made to us, an event, every one in both Ithipsfelt with inexpressible satisfaction. I The next morning after our arrival, being; Wednes- day the 19th, Captain Cook went off in the boat, at [day-break, to gatner scurvy-grass, celery, and other ve- [getables. At breakfast-time he returned with a boat [load, enough for the crews of both ships ; and know- ling their salutary elOicacy in removing scorbutic com- [plaints, he ordered that they should be boiled with wheat and portable broth, every morning tor break- fast, and with pease and broth for dinner, and thus dressed they are extremely beneficial. On the 20th, we visited the fortifications of the natives where the observatory was fixed. It is only [accessible in one place, arid there by a narrow, difli-^ cult path, being situated on a steep rock. The huts of the natives stood promiscuously, within an inclosure of pallisades , they consisted only of a roof, and had no walls. About noon we were visited by two small canoes, in which were five men. They dined with us, and it was not a little they devoured. In the even- ing they were dismissed with presents. On the 24th, the Resolution received another visit from a family, who came with no other intent than to partake 200 CAPTAIN COOK S partake of our food, and to get some of our iron worl We wanted to knowr their names, but it was a lon^ time before we could make them understand us At ]ast we found that the oldest was called Towahanr>a and the others Kotu^ha, Koghoaa, Khoaa, Kotlakh,' and Taupuaperua. This last was a boy about twelve years of age, vety lively and intelligent. He dined with us, eat voraciously,'and was very fond of thecriut of a pie, made of wild fowl. He did not much rellsji Madeira wine, which the captarn gave him, but wai very fond o^ some sweet Cape wine, which elevated his spirits, and his tongue was perpetually going. * On the 29th, a mat number of natives surrounded us with canoes, who brought goods to exchange, for which they got good returns, owing to the eagcmoi with which our sailors outbid each other, all of then being desirous of having some productions of thii country. Among these Indians, we saw many womeo whose lips were of a blackish hue, and their cheeb were painted with a lively red. They had large kneei; and slender bandy legs, owing to want of exercise^ and sitting in their canoes cross-legged. The ladiei were very agreeable to our crews, who had no oppor* tunity of indulging an intercourse with other womeo since our departure from England ; and they oftei found out that chastity was not a distinguishing part of their character. Their consent was easily purchased) a spike nail, or an old shirt, was a sufficient bribe; The New Zealanders, encouraged by the gain of thii disgraceful commerce, went through both the ship^ offering their daughters and sisters to the promiscuoo embraces of every one, for iron, tools, &c. On the 30th instant, we went over to long Island, to collect some hay, which the crews had made, and to bring some vegetables on board. . In this trip, we found several new plants, and shot some small birdi^ which we had not seen before. In the afternoflo, leave was given to some of our sailors to go on shoie^ where they again purchased the embraces of the wo>| ineiii SKCOMD VOTAGt. fOl joep. Th9'A fellows must have been very keen indeed, or they v/oiild have been disgusted witn the unclean- liness of thek doxies, all of whom had a disagreeable ineU, which might be scented at a considerable dis- I tince ; and their clothes as well as hair swarmed with vermin to aycry great degree, which they occa- sionally cracked between their teeth. It is surprising bow men, who had received a civilized education, leould gratify the animal appetite with such loath- liome creatures. While this party were on shore, a IvQUng woman on board stole one of the seamen's 'fickets, and gave it to a-young man of her own tribe ; ipon the sailor's taking it from the Indian, he received >venil blows on the race by the young fellow's fist. H first the sailor took this as in joke, but upon per- ceiving the assailant to be in earnest, he gave him a letrty EngHsh drubbing, ' and made him cry out for juarters. At this time Captain Cook continued his em- )yment of]$owing, in different spots cleared tor the irpose, all sorts of vegetables that he thought )ukl grow in this country, such as potatoes, beans^ S8,corn, 8ec. On Tuesday the first of June, we were visited by Bveral natives whom we had not seen before, and rho brought with them ' sundry new articles of com- erce *, among these were dogs, some of which we purchased. Of these people we saw a few oddly narked in their faces, by spiral lines deeply exit la Such kind of marks w«re very regular in the of a middle-aged ^man, named Tringho Waya, rho appeared to be a person of note, and to have thortty over his ^brethren. This comr»any seemed understand perfectly well how to traffic, and did like we should make hard bargains. Some of em entertained us with a dance on the quart er- i;, previous to which they parted with tht- ir up- ^|prments, and stood in a row. They sang a )ng,and its chorus a)U together, making during the rfocmaaoe #nany liantic gestufcs^^ Muaie accom<* I ;C^ J panied 202 CAPTAIH COOK*S panied thii song and dance, but it was not very hir.| ■loniout. ' Early in the morning; of the 5th, we sailed from I this place, in company with the Adventure, but had frequent hindrances from contrary winds. On the 22a, we were in lat. 32 deg. 30 min. long. 133 de^J .40 min. W. Now the weather was so warm, that we were obliged to put on lighter clothes. Captain Coo^ having heard that the crew of the Adventure were sickly, went on board the 29th of July, when hel found the cook dead, and twenty men ill of the scunjl and flux. Only three men were on the sick list oi| board the Resolution, which was certainly owing tol the Captain's absolutely enforcing the eating celeryl and scurvy-grass with the food, though at first thel crew did not like it. On the 6th of August, Captain Furneaux cameooj board the Resok >n to dinner, and reported, tl •his people were n jch better, that the flux had left them, and that the scurvy was at a stand, scorbutic people had been well supplied with cyd which in a great measure contributed to this happ change. On the 14th, we saw Osnaburg Island] and on the 15th, at five in the morning, acquaints .Captain Furneaux, that it was our intention to -into Oatipiha Bay, near the south end of Otahelk and get what refreshments, we could in that part the island, before we went to Matavai. On the 18th, we were within a league of the , On account of the breeze failing us, we hoisted i our boats to tow the ships oflf, but they could notke us from being carried too near the reef. Many inh bitants came on board from diflPerent parts, brought fruit, Scd to exchange ; the most of the . knew Captaio Cook again, and enquired for' . Banks, and others, but none of them asked for' pia. Our situation became still more dangerousi the calm 'continued. On sending to examinel' ..western point of the reef in order to get round vray into the bay, we found that there was not a lut SECOND VOYAGE. $03 lent depth of watfr. I^oth ships were carried with. reat impetuosity towards the reef, and all the horror fsliip wreck now stared us in the face. The breakers ere not two cables length from us, and we could nd no bottom to anchor. The Resolution came at hree fathoms water, and struck at every fall of the a, the Adventure brought up under our bow, with- lUt striking. The dreadul surf which broke under lur stern, threatened our shipwreck every moment, t lenght we found ground a little without the bason, nd got the ship afloat by cutting away the bower an** hor, and the tide ceased to act in the same direction^ e happily towed off the Resolution, and all the ats were ordered to assist the Adventure. We appily got her once more safe at sea, after narrowly^ leaping shipwreck. 5^«vm ,J; f We I anchored in Oatipiha Bay, very near the ihore, and were visited by a great number of the latives, who brought roots, fruits, &c. Several of hese people asked for Mr. Banks, and other people ho were at Otaheite with Captain Cook before. e were informed by these people, that there had tna battle fought between the two kingdoms ; that butaha, the regent of the greater peninsula, was lain, and that Otoo reigned in his stead. In this ttle, Tubourai Tamaide, and several of our old lends fell. A peace was now fully established. On the 19th, the two commanders made an ex- rsion along the coast, and were entertained by a ihief (whom they met) with some excellent fish, &c. whom in return they made several presents. On e 20th, one of the natives stole a gun from the lople on shore. Some of the natives pursued him^ |f their own accord, who knocked him down, and' ought back t^e musket. We imagine that fear perated more with them in this business than any her motive. On the 21st, a chief came to visit us^* ho brought in a present of fruit, which' prpved to h^ e cocoa-nu^s that we had drawn the water fironi id throw|^ overboard. He had so artfully tied them r,ni:t»;vj • ^ c2 " " " " * ' '' up. m cAPtAiir tidbit's up, that we did not soon discover tiFe deceit, tie did rtot betray the least emotion when we told him of it, ind opened two or three of them himself, as if he knet) Nothing of the matter ; he then pretended to be satisfied thdt it was really so, and went on fhore, from whence he sent some banahas and plantains. We yrttt informed that Waheatow Was come into the nei^ bourhood, and wished to see Captiiin Cook, who aecorditigty went rn company With Captain Furnefetix, iind some gfentlemen: they were like^^iise attendtd by some natives. About t mile froin the landing place they met the chief, advancing to meet them with a numerous train. When the prince perceived tii Company, he halted. He knew Captain Cook veiy Weil, as they had icen each other several times in 1769. He went at that time by the name of Terdce, and t6ok hijs father's name at his death. We fbund him sitting on a stool; and as soon as the usual salut^ tioh wds over, he seated Ckptain Cook on the same stool With hihiself ; the rest sat on the ground. He fnqi^r^d after several who had been on the fonner voj age, and seemed sorry when we told him we must sail tlie next day, offering the captain that if he would Stay he ishould have hogs in plenty. Captain Coolt tn&dc him many presents, and ^laid With him the whole, morning. This party returned oh board of the ship t6 dinner, and tnade the ehief another visit in the afternoon, m&de him mote (Presents, and he gave two hdgs. At the different trading* places, some others were got, so that a me^lls fresh poik ierv^d for the crews of both ships. Early in the rtiorning of the 24th, we puttosei, and tvere accbrnp^inied oy several cianoes, who brotiglit clargoes ot fruit for sale; nei titer did they rcttirt t'lll rhey had disposed of therh. The sick peoffc oh board the Adventure got much relief from the* fruits, We left a liedferiant on shore, in order te bring gome h2ig«, xvhicl^ they prtrtnised to send bjf him. lie reliirnedon the 25ih, arid' brought cigRJ ^^^VvithbHtt. We^rtiVied at Matani Bay iti tfce cveniDgi V- •'■ t SECOND VOYAGE. 205 Lining* Md dur deckt were crowded with iiLiives before we could get to anchor ; almost all of them were acquainted with Captain Cook. Otoo their Iking, »nd a great crowd were got together on shore. ICaptain Cook was going on shore to pay hima visits [but was told he was gone to Oparee in a fright ; which Iteetned very extraordinary to the captain, as all others [were much pleased to see him. Maritata, a chief« Uas on board, and advised ' the captain to defer his Itisittill next morning. Next morning the captain set out for Oparee, after baving given directions to fetch tents for the reception sf the sick. Captain Furneaux, Maritata^ and hi^ ?ifc,and some others went with the captain. They (re conducted to Otoo as soon as they landed, who It on the ground under a sh^dy tree, with a great Dumber of people around him. Captain CcT.kmadA him several presents after the usual compliments had •d, being very well persuaded that it was much to iiis interest to establish a friendship with this man* ptoo inquired for all the gentlemen who had been [here berore, as well as for Tupia, and promised to end some hogi oa board, but was. very backward in lying he would come on board himse!/, being, as be lid, much afraid of the great guns. He was certain- a most timid pnnce, as all his actions demonstrated- le was a per^pnable well made man, six feet high^ and [bout thirty years of age. His father and all his sub- pets were uncovered before him, that is, their heads ad shoulders were made bare. ^^ On the 27th, the king Otoo came to pay us a visit, |ttended by a mitiierous train ; he sent before two krge fishes, a hog, some fruits, and a large quBn<* |ty of c!oth. After much persuasion he came on )ard himself, accompanied by his sisters, a younger rother, &c. with many attendants, who all recei>ved [resents ; and when they had break lasted^ carried them le to Oparee. Upon landing, an old lady, the pother of Toitfab?^ mptCaptaia Cook> lei^ed him 2d6 CAPtAlN COOKS by both hands, and, weeping bitterly, told him that her son and his friend Toutaha, were dead. Had not the king taken her from Captain Cook, he must havtj joined her lamentations. The next day the king pro. mised to visit us again, but said we must first wait uJ5onhim. . On the 29th, the commanders took atrip toOpa. ree, attended by some officers and gentlemen, and rtiade the king such presents as he had not before seen. — One of them was a broad sword; at the sight of I which he was very much intimidated, and desired it might be taken out of his sight. With a vast deal of argument, he was prevailed upon to suffer it to be| put on his side, where it remained a very short time, j . We received an invitation to the theatre, where thej entertained us with a dramatic piece, consisting of a tomedy and dance. The performers were one woman, which was no less a personage than the king's sister,an(i five men, and their music consisted of only three drumJ The whole entertainment was well conducted, and lasted about two hours. When this diversion way) over, the king desired us to depart, and loaded us f with fruit and fish. The king sent more fruit and fisb| the next morning. On the 1st of September, we determined to depart,! as the sick were nearly recovered, the necessary repain of the ships were compleated, and plenty of water prO"! vided. Most of thc^day was employed in unmooring the ships ; and in the afternoon the lieutenant returned,! who had been sent for the hogs promised. With hidij came Potatou (the chief of the districl of Attahounou)! with his wife, to pay Captain Cook a visit, andmadej him a present of two hogs and some fish. The iieu-f tenant got likewise two more hog' As the wind wati westerly we were obliged to dismiss our friends soontrl than they wished ; but they were very well satisfied witii| the reception they met with. A young man, named Peoro, came on beard sooi«| hours before we got und^rstiili and desired to go with ■* ^ m I I SECOND VOYAGE. ^07 OS, to which we consented ; ai.d at the same time he [asked for an axe and a spike nail for his father, who Itaitie with him on board. They were nccordingly Igivcn him, and they parted with great indifference, Lh'ch seemed to indicate that they had deceived us, land no other consanguinity subsisted Presently a Icanoe, conducted by two men, came along-side, and Idemanded Peoro in the name of Otoo. We informed jthem that we would part with him if they would retura (the hatchet and spike-nail, but they said they were lashore ; so the young gentleman sailed along with us, though he wept when he saw the land at our stern. On the 2d, we steered our course for the island of Huaheine, and the Resolution anchored in twenty-four fathom.s water on the 3d instant, but the Adventure (ot ashore on the north side of the channel but she m happily got off again without receiving any da- lage. The natives received us with the utmost cordia- lity, several of whom came on board before our com- [landers went onshore.^Some presents were distributed ^mong them, whjch were gratefully returned by a plentiful supply of hogs, fruit, &c. Here we had a fine prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork ind fowls, which was to us very pleasing. On the 4th, two trading-parties went on shore, which irere very well conducted. Captain Cook was inform j [dthat Oree wasstiJl alive, and waitedto see him. The kommanders, with Mr. Forster, went to the place ap- pointed for the interview, accompanied by one of the patives. The boat was landed before the chief's house, Indthey were desired to remain in it till the necessary |eremony was gone through. There stood close to the Qore five yo»ng plantain trees, which are their emblems [f peace; these were, with some ceremony, brought on jparately. The first three, were each accompanied by young pig, whose ears were ornamented with cpcoa- it fibres ; the fourth plantain tree was accompanied by dog. All these had particular names and meanings, rhich we could not understand. This part of the cere- Jony being over, we were desired by our guide to de- corate .1 208 CAPTAIN COOK S corate three young plantain trees with nails, lookioA glasseS) beads, &c. With these in our hands we lani ed, and were con ducted through the multitude. ^J were directed to sit down a few paces before the chief! •And the plantains were laid one by one before him.Jl This being done, the king came to Captain Cook, fejj on his neck and kissed him. A great effusion of teasl fell down the cheeks of this venerable old man ; andifl ever tears spoke the language of the heart, surely thetef did. Capt. Cook regarded him as a father, and then^l fore presented him with the most valuable articles hel had. Soon after we returned on board, fourteen honl were sent us, with fowls and fruit in abundance. ', In the morning of the 5th instant, we were visited by this good old man, who brought a hog' some fruit : indeed he sent the captain every day, readfl dressed fruit and roots in great plenty. This morQitfl the lieutenant went on shore in search of more hoM and returned in the evening with 28^ and about if more were purchased on shore. When we vent to take leave of Oree, while the shii were unmooting,we presented him with things bothv luable and useful. We left him a copper-plate, will this inscription, *^ Anchored here, his Britannic Majo ty's ships Resolution and Adventure, September, nTJ.") After we had traded for such things as we wante we took our leave, which was a very affectionate on On returning to the ships they were crouded, asoni arrival, with canoes filled with hogs, fowls, &c. after we were on board, the king came, and sti "with us, till we were near two miles out at sea, then after taking another affectionate' leave, partfl During our stay here, we procured upwards of hogs, besides fowls and 6rutt in great abundance. While at this island, Captain Furneaux engaged! young man, named Omai, a native of Ulietea, whol been dispossessed of his property by the people of i labola, to accompany him on his vo3rage. This yooiq man had a good understanding, honest principles, a natural good behaviottf. SECOND VOYAGE. 209 On the 8t1i, we entered'the harbour ofOhfimaneno ; [be natives crouded about us with hogs and (mii as ' 3n as we anchored. We refused the hogs, as we had [jready more than we could manage ; but several of [he principal people obliged us to take them whether r no. We made a visit on the 9th to Oreo, who is the lief of this part of the island of Ulietea. He expressed [real satisfaction on seeing Captain Cook again, and lesired him to exchange names with him, which thci itter agreed to : this is a distinguishing mark of riendship. Here we traded as usual, but the balance if trade was much in our favour. On the lOth, the chief entertained us with a come- ly : a very entertaining part of which was a theft, [ommitted with amazing dexterity, by a man and his ccomplice. Before the thief has time to carry off thd krize,he is discovered, and d scuffle ensues : the disco- terers are vanquished, and the thieves go off in tri- [mph. We returned to dinner after the play was Ivcr, and as we were walking on shore in the evening, m of the natives informed us ttiat there were nine ininhabited islands to the westward. Oreo and his son paid us a visit early in the morning^ ^flhe nth of September, and brought, as usual, hogs Ind fruit with them. We (dressed the youth in a shirt, Ind some other articles, of which he was not a little Iroud. After staying some hotirs, they went ashore, Ind so did Captain Cook soon after, but to another lart of the shore. When the chief heard he was mded, he went of his own accord, and put a hog and 3me fruit in the boat, and returned without saying^ Iny thing of it to any other person. He afterwards lame with some friends to dinner. After dinnerj [oorau, who is the most eminent chief of the island!, [aid us a visit. He was introduced by Oreo, and [rought a present with him ; for which he received a mdsome return. We promised to meet these two chiefs ^enext morning ; which we accordingly did, in com- |any with several gentlemen. Another play wa? acted, id two very pretty young women performed, other- 5 D d wise 210 CAPTAIN cook's wise this piece was not so entertaining as 4he one «e saw before. On the 14th, Oreo and some friends paid us a pretty early visit, when we informed him, that we should dine with him on shore^ and desired he would let us have two pigs for dinner, dressed in their fashion. We tpund the floor of the chief's house strewed with leaves, and we were soon seated round them. Soon after thepjgj came tumbling over our heads upon the leaves ; and they were both so hot as scarcely to be touched. The table was ornamented with hot bread and plantains; we had likewise a quantity of cocoa-nuts to drink. % never saw victuals dressed cleaner nor better in our lives, and i( had a mosjt exquisite flavour, nnich supe; rior to victuals dressed in our mode ; how they con. trived jt we cannot tell, but though one of tl)em weiglv ed fifty pounds at least, it was well done in every pari, and not too much in any. We had a great number of attendants, and people came to'see us dine in public, to whom pieces of pork were handed. The chiefdii not refuse l)is gjass 'of Madeira whenever it camelo his turn, and wq never at this, or any other time, saw bim affected by it. The boat's crew took the re.| mainder when we had dined. In the afternoon, we were again entertained with a play. On the 15th, we had a sufficient proof of the timo- rous disposition of these people. We rather wondcredl that none of them canie to the ships as usual. We mti afraid, as two men of the Adventure's crew ^taid out all night, that the natives had stripped them, ordontj them some other injury, arid were afrai|l we shouli I'evenge their conduct. We went ashore, and found the] neighbourhood nearly deserted. Presently the two m made theif appearance, and reported they had bpenverf| civilly treated. We could get no account of tbecaui of iheir flight, and could only learn from a few pcrsoi who ventured near us, that several were killed ai wounded, and pointed to their bodies where the balls jibe guns went in and out. Captain Cook was very ui psy at this relation, fearing for the safety of thepeopkj .* > SECOND VOYAGE. 211 gone to Otaha. In order to get the best inrormation, thccaptaindetermined logo tothe chief himself, whom, after much searching for, he found seated under the shade of a house, with a great many peoplf round hirii. I There was a great lami ntation as soon as Capt. Coolc approached, the chief and ail his company bursting into tears. After all this piece of work, it was found that the cause of their alarm was on account of out boats being absent, supposing that the people in them had deserted us, and that we should adopt violent methods to recover them. They were satisfied, when Captain Cook assured them that there was no cause [for alarm, and that the boats would certainly returti. On the morning of the 16ih, we paid the chief a Itisit, who wiisfin his own house in perfect tranquillity^ lAt this time Poreo left us. \. . CriAP. IK. _ "^--*-^-^«--^ ^tate of the islands-Customs of the natives — Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Isles — Hervejfs Island discovered — Incidents at Middleburg — The two ships arrive at Amsterdam — Incidents that happened during their sttiy at that island; kN the 17th of Septemberj we determined to put "to sea, havirtg a good supply of all kinds of refresh- ments. Before we sailed, Oreo and his son paid us a risit. Several canoes, filled with fruit Imd hogs, sur- [ounded us; of the latter we could receive no more, Dur decks being so crouded vvfth them that we could carcely move. In both ships were about three hun- [red and fifty. Oreo and his friends did not leave us jillv^e were under sail, and earnestlyfimportuned us to til when we should return. Capt. Cook, as many [oung men offered to come away with us, took one on lioard, about 18 years of age, named Oedidee, a na- ive of Bolabola. When we were out of the harbour |nd had made sail, a canoe was observed following us, )ndueted by two men ; whereupon we brought to, |nd when alongside, they delivered to Captain Cook iprcsent of roasted fruit and roots, from Oreo. The D d 2 captaiHi 312 CAPT\IN COOK 9 captain, after having made them a proper return, set sail to the west, with the Adventure in company. >Ve shall here give some t^/ther account of these islands, some things which are rather interesting having been omitted in the relation of the daily transactions and incidents. In the years 1767, and 1768, the island of OtahcitcJ as it were, swarmed with hogs and fowls; but at thii time it was so ill supplied with these animals, that hardly any thing could tempt the owners to part with them ; and the little stock they had seemed to be at| the disposal of their kings. When we lay at Oaiti-piha Bay, in the kingdom of I Tirrabou, or lesser Pepinsula, we were given to under- stand, that every hog and fowl belonged tu Wiiheato. na ; and that all in the kingdom of Opouronu, or the greater Peninsula, belonged to Otoo. While at this island, we only got twenty-four hogs in seventeen days; half of which came from the kings themseifj and the other half we were inclined to think were sold us by their permission. But with respect to all thel fruits produced in the islands, with these we werel abundantly supplied, except bread fruit, which wai| not in season. Cocoa-nuts and plantains we the most of; the latter, with a ie>y yam^ and otherl j-oots^ supplied the p^ce of breads We attributed the s<;ra.rcity of hogs, to two causes:] first, to the great nuniberof the^e animals, which have been consuna.ed, and, carried away for stock, by the] ship^ that have touched here of late years ; secondly,! to the frequent, wars between the tvvo kingdoms. Twol yrei have known have commenced since the year 1767 J hnt at present peace reigns amon^ them, though. the|| do no( seei^ to entertain a cordial friendship forea other. ' » After opr departure, it was out intention to get inti the lat. of the islands of Middleburg; and Amsterda to which end, on the 17thof September, we steered! the west, inplining to the south, with a view of gett clear of the tracts of former navigators. We^proceede SECOND VOYAGE. 21$ jt nlg^* with great circumspection, frequently laying [o, lest we should pass any land unobserved. On the !lst, and the whole of the 22d, we had rain, thunder, lightning, a large swell from theS. and the wind blew from the N. W. for several days ; a si^n to us that in that direction, no land was near us. This was discovered rom the mast-head, on Thursday the 23d, stretching Irom S. by W. to S. W. by S. We hauled up with the find at S. E. and found it to consist of two or three Lmall islots, united by breakers, as are most of the low [slesin the sea ; the whole being of a triangular form, ind about six leagues in circuit.. This island is in la, I9deg. IS min. S. and in 15S deg. 54 min. W. loag. Each of the small connected isles are clothed with I'ood, particplarly of the cocoa-nut kind i but we saw no traces of inhabitants, and, had re^on to believe (here were none. To these islots we gave thei oaine )f Harvey's Islands, in honour of Captain Hervey of |[hc navy, one of ihe lords of the i Imirsvlty, and now earl of oristol. As the lapding on this i^le would have Qcqasioned a delay, we resumed our coarse to the west. In which we saw some men of war, tropic bird^ ^nd flying fish. On the 25th, we again begaa to use )ur sea biscuit, the fruit being all consumed; but of [iresh pork each man had every day a niecessary allow- ince. On the 29th, in, lat. 21 deg. 2i§ mini. S. we jltcred our course at noon W. half Sii;.** tj?jo'?!*H* rJ Oo the 1st of October, ajt two o'clocli: P, M. we lade the is]at^d of Middleburgh, anc| t|hQ ne.^iit morning bore up for the west side thereof, passi;?g between the une and a small island that lay off it, whpro we found i clear channel two miles bro^fl. ACicir running about |wo thirds of its length, half a mile frpn> the shore, we observed it assvfmed another aspect, and o^ered a pr : v i The house we were now entertained in was situated toHje angle of the plantation, abounding with fruit and ees, whose fragrance diffused a pleasant odour, and the spreading branches made an agreeable shade. Be- fore the house was an area, on which we were seated. t being now noon, we returned on board to dinner, ith the chief Tioony in our company. We had on |he table fresh pork, but he eat nothing, which we ought somewhat ex)jaordinary. After dinner we gain went on shore, and were received as before. Mr. Forster with his botanical party, and some other entlemen, took a walk into the country. Our two ptains werjB conducted to the chief's house, where it, and some greens were set before us. Having just ined, we could not eat much, biit Oedidee and Omat lid honour to the desert. We now intimated a desire seeing the country, and Tioony very readily gratified rvishes. He led us through several plantations, laid itwith great iudgment,and inclosed with fences made jrith reed$. Most of them belonged to our hospitable nief, and were all in very good order, and planted ^ith fruit trees. Hogs and very large fowls, the only Dtriestic animal$ we saw, were running nearjthe houses nd in the lane that separated the plantations. Every srson was much pleased with this delightful coun* and the friendly reception we met With i and we much 916 CAPTAIN COOK S s;iuch regretted, that the season of the year, and other circumstances, would not permit our lonf^er stay. In the evening we returned on board, and on Saturday thei fid of October, the ships we crowded with people the whole day, trafficking in perfect good order. On the 3d, early in the morning, while the shlpi| were preparing to get under sail, Captains Cook and FurneauXfQCcompanied by Mr. Forster.wentoffinthe boat to take leave of our hospitable chief. He metui at the landing-place, and had we not excused ourselvej he would have entertained us at his house. We therej fore spent half an hour with him seated on the grasj in the midst of a vast crowd of the natives, whoseeinJ ed to vie with each other in doing what they thoiightl ivould give us pleasure. Having made the chief a pre tent,consisting of various articles, he was given to un-i derstand that we were going away, at which l)e stremedl not at all affected. He went with us into cur boat, vvirli| two of his friends, intending to accompany us aboardj but when he saw the Resolution under sail, he andhul companions went into a canoe, and returned on shore.! It is remarkable, that on shore thi» friendly Indian m ver made the least exchange ; but now,- during hisstaJ in the boat, he bartered fish-hooks for nails, and eo-l jgrossed the trade in a manner wholly to himself. On the Sd, assoen as Captain Cook came on board,! we departed from' Middleburgh, and made sail dowoj to Amstefdam. When we were about half way tween the two isles, we were met by three canoes, an the people made several attempts to com^ aboard, without effect., as the rope we threw out to them brok^ and we did not shorten sail. They were likwiseui successful in boarding the Adventure. We ran along the south-west coast of Amsterdan iat the' distance of half a mile from the shore, whereo thesea brok« in a great surf; By the help of glasses, i saw the fiiice of the whole island, which, in every] that came under our observation, appeared covrn w4th>p]antatiofts. Along the shore we perceived th natives ruOtlHig in great nutnbers; and displaying sH ^i.i'V 3 rf SECOND VOYAGE. 317 IwhiM flng9i the emblems of peace, which si^pals we Ignswered by hoisting a St. George's ensign. At this Itime th ee of the natives of Middleburgh, who had continued too long on board the Adventurt to return, Iquined her. and swam to the shore, from whence we concluded they had no strong inclination to accom- jany us in our voyage. We had no sooner opened the west side of the isle, khan several canoes, having four men in each, came jjdly along-side, and, when they had presented us n\\\ some ava root, came on board without the least ceremony. Having got into Van Diemen*s Road, ws inchored in 1 8 fathoms water, little more than a ca • ^k'i length from the breakers ; and our coasting an- chor, to keep the ship from tailing on the rocks, lay in 47 fathoms* water. By this time we were surround- ed with people, and our seamen were so eager in pur- chasing their curiosities, even at the expence of blothes, that Captain Cook found it absolutely ne- cessary to prohibit any farther commerce of this sort. The good effect of this order was, that on the 4th, Ihe natives brought us fowls, pigs, bananas, and locoa-nuts in abundance, for which we exchanged [mall nails and pieces of cloth, even old rags would )urchase pigs and fowls. A trading party was now settled, 'and our com- landers went on shore, attended by Mr. Forster an J fther ofHcers, in company with a chief named Atta- ), who had attached himself to Captain Cook the jrst moment of his coming on board, which was before ^e ships came to anchor. This person, of some note, resented the captain with several articles, and as a ^eater testimony of friendship, exchanged names mh him ; a custom which, as we have observed, is [ractised at Otaheite, and the Society Isles. We rere received on shore with the sanr>e demonstrations |f joy as at Middleburgh, and the gentlemen set out ftto the country, except the two commanders, who listributed presents to such of the natives as Attago minted out, who were afterwards discovered to be 5 Ec of #, - •\ m^Kmrnm 218 CA?fAtN COOltS %■ of superior ranlc to himself; though at thiitirne, by the dttention paid to him, he appeared to be the prin. cipal person. Having complained of the heat, AtJ tago shewed and seated lis under the shade of a lar^ tree; and the people, who were ordered to form i circle, never attempted to pass fhf*, prescribed boundJ and crowd upon us, as did those of Otahette. After having been here some time, we hinted our desrre to see the country ; whereupon Atrago imnicJ diately conducted us along a lane that terminated J an open green, on one side df which We saw h place of worship, buflt -on a mount about eighteen f^et htgjh. It was an oblong square, inclosed by a stoM parapet wall, about three feet in height ; from w^jidl the mount, covered with green turf, rose to m bmWing with a gradual slope. Tbe borlding wttl ttr^h^y by fourteen feet, when we had advancelf within fifty yards of its front, every one saft doiKrn oil the green. Three elderly men, whom we teok priests, begun a prayer, having their feces t6 t)K{ house, which lasted about ten minut«s, and this ber ended, they came and seated themselves by us. ^ made them presents of what we had mhout lin, » ihcii proceeded to view the premi«efi, to which tl did not shew the least reluctance. The house built m every respect like their common dv/cllrfl[ With posts and ralfrers, covered with psrfm thatdK| The cares came within three fitet of the ground, the open space wj£»s filled op with atrong flatting of p^lm leaves, as a Wall. In the frOfit, leadii 40 the top of this, tvere two stone stepij^ and roi the hotjse was a graved walk : the floor was also ^with fine gravel, in the centre whereof was an obi square of bhie pebbles, raised six inches higher, ^ne angle of the building stood an linage rM^h carved in wood, and another lay on One side. Image was turned over and over by AttttgO, M %ould have done any other log. of wood, whiih 'vinced us that they were not considered by the tl vtt as objects of worship. We put sevdrftl quttti SEC017D VOYAGR 219 ItftAitago concerning this matter, but did not under« litimid his answers ; for our readers are to be informed^ that, at our last arrival, wc hardly could understand J word the people said. We thought proper to leave inoHering, and therefore laid down upon the plat^ rni' some medals, nails, and other things, which our riend immediately took up and put into his pocket. Wi could not conceive how they could cut such large stones out of the coral rocks, with which iho ills were made that inclosed the mount, some of em bein^ ten feet by four, and near si^: inches lick. The mount, which stood in a kind of grove, as open only to view on that side which fronted the n, and here five rocks met, most of which ap* ared to the public. Among the various trees that fflposed the groves, we found the Etoa tree, of hich are made clubs, and a- sort of low palm, very mmon in the northern parts of Holland. This lace of worship^ in the language of Amsterdam, is A-sia'toU'Cab On our return to the water-side, vi^e turned ofF to road leading into the country, about sixteen feet d, and as level as a bowling-green ; several other s intersected it, all inclosed on each side with f reed fences^ and shaded by fruit-treesi Tho lutrv hereabouts is surprizingly fertile, insomuch, we might easily have imagined ourselves in th# pleasant situation that Europe could afford* re are various uilightful ^alks, and not an inch of ultivated ground* Naturej assisted by art, no here appears to more advantage than in this fertile^ t. The roads, even tiie high public one, which about sixteen feet broad, occupied no more spac« m was absolutely necessary, nor did the boundaries fences take up above four inches each, and in l4aces of these were planted useful trees and nts. On the 5th> early in the morning, the caplftin'^ iend Attigo, brought him '<* hog and sonie fruit, %r "^Hby inreturn, be r^ei^d a hatchet. The pw* £ e nacc ^^ mm 220 CAPTAIN COOK S. nace having been sent on shore to trade as usual soon returned, and we were informed thf\t the na. tivcs, in many respects, were exceeding troublesome. The day before they had stole the boat's grapl'mg, and at this time they were for taking every thing out of the pinnace. It was therefore judged necessary to have on shore a guard, and accordingly the marines were sent, under the command of Lieutenant Edg. cumbe. On the 6th, our friend Attago visited us again ai usual, brought with him a hog, and assisted nsio purchasing many fnore. We went afterwards on shore, visited the old chief, v/ith whom we staid til) noon, and returned on board to dinner, accompanied by Attago, who never one day left Captain Ccf)k Boeing about to depart from this island, a present vi4 made for the old king, and carried on shcrr in [k evening. Attago very strongly importurrd •^ocalli again at this isle on our return, and requct^rtu of the| captain, more than once, tobringhim a suitofclothei tike those he had on^ which was his uniform. The supplies which we pntduced from this island,] were about 150 pigs, double that number of fowls, as many bananas, &;c. as we could find rocm for;i and, had we continued longer, we might have had more than our 'wants required. We were now abonl to depart, when, in heaving the coasting cable, it broke, by being chaffed by the rocks ; by which a^J cident we lost nearly '^lalf the cable, togethe: wii the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, with any buoy to it ; from whence a judgment may formed of this anchorage. About ten o'clock P. M. we got under sail, our decks being encumbered with fruit, fowls, &i we kept plying under the land till they were cleai As to the natives of these islands, both sexes are of common size with Europeans; but with respect (pompkyion, their colour is that of a lightish co and more uniformly so than among thos& of Oi^^-^ and the Society Isles. Of our gentlemen, some tboug ' . tbi SECOND VOYAGE, 22fi theie people were a much handsomer race ; others were of a contrary opinion. It is certain that they have in general regular features, with a good shape : they are also active, brisk and lively. The women are especially very merry and sociable, and would chat with us, without being invited, or if we seemed at- tentive, without considering whether we understood them or not. They appeared in general to be modest : yet instances of those of a different character were not wanting ; and some havmg venereal complaints. Cap- tain Cook took all possible care that the disorder should not be communicated to them. Whenever op- portunity served, they discovered a strong propensity to pilfering, and in the art of thieving are full as knowing and dexterous as the Otaheiteans. Their hair^ particularly of the females, is black, but soncc: of the men have a method of staining their hair with va- rious colours, as white, red, and blue, which we saw upon the same head. It is wore cut short, and we met with only two exceptions to this Custom. The • have only a single lock on the top of tl*e. head, oinbed upwards, and a small quantity on each side, e beards of the men are shaved quite close with two ihells : and even those of an advanced age have fine yes, and in general good teeth. ' The dress of the natives consists of a piece of cloth r matting, hanging below the knees, but from the aist upwards, they are generally naked. AV'e were ^.tertained frequently with songs from/the women, in - grceable style, and the music they accompanied by s' ymg their fingers, so as to keep time to it. Both i and their voices are very harmonious: and they ave a considerable compass in their notes. The government of this country is much like that f Otahcite ; that is, in a king or prime chief (called reeke) with other subordinate chiefs, who are lords, f certain districts, perhaps sole proprietors, to whom tht people seem to pay great obedience. We also rceived a third rank, one of whom was our friend Atiago, ■ss> ■■3F ♦■ •A 222. CAFTAIK; COOK § #* Atta^, who seemed to have not a little influence 0Ter| the common people. It was the opinion of Captaia Cook, that ail the land is private property^ and that here, as at Otaheite, are a set of servants or slaves, who have no property in land. Indeed, we cannot suppose every thing* to be in common, in a country sol richly cultivated. Few would toil if they did not ex* pect to reap^ and enjoy the fruits of their labour ai their own. Parties of six, eight, or ten people, would frequently bring' fruit down to the landing-place; but we always saw one man or woman, superintend the vde of the whole, without whose consent no e& changes could be made ; and the things they bartered for were always given them^ all which plainly shewi theyi were the owners, and the others only their serJ ' ^^V'' .... GHAP. IV. 7^ Resokitio» and Adventure continue their from Amsterdam^^Proceedfor Queen Charlott?t\ Sound—^An interview with the inhahitants^-Tkl Jtnal separationof the tiw ships^^Transactions am incidents in Queen ChartOffe*s Sound'-^The inhahiUx ants discovered to^lfe catifiibals — The Resolution de-l parts from- the Sounds and proceeds in search aftm her consort'^€i>urse of the Resolution in search m the supposed Continent ; and the methods pursued tA explore the Southern Pacifies Ocean — Arrives m Easter Istandi^md transaction there, 9^c, O^ the 7ih of October, we made sail to the south* ward, and our route tietermined was' to mikcj Uyr Queen Charlotte's Sound, there to take in a ef wood and. water, and then to proceed on fintJMJ discoveries to the S. and £. 'We now after a M hours calm, stretched with a S< W, wind to thffj S; £. but on Sunday the l(Hb« It veered round totbl| S. E>i m SSCOKD VOYAGE. S28 S. £• 91^^ ^* ^* ^' "P^" which we Tosumed our course to the S. S. W. On the 21st, at five o'clock A. M. we made the land of New Zealand, extending from N. W. by N. to W.S. W. We stood in shore till we were ahrea^t of Table .Cape and Portland Islai>d, Which is joined to it by a ledge of rocks. We advanced to the Black ICipe ^'^ the 22d, and several inhabitants took courage und boarded us, among whom was a chief ; he was Idthed elegatitly« and his hair was dressed in the high ishionof the country. We entertained him in the ibii)) and bis companions ^Id us some fish. These eople were very fond of naiU, and the chief received [Ihctn with much greater fe<»ger*>ess than when the cap- lin gave him hogs, fowls, steds, and roots. We ob- lliined a promise firom him not to kill any, and if he leeps hiis word, there are enough to stock the whole island ; the present consisted of two sows, tw« boars, fcurhens, and iwo cocks. We likewke gave him everal useful seeds, and instructed him in the manner }f setting ihem. The Adventure was now a good vty to leeward, and we being obliged to tack, she ras coniequlsntly separated from D9^ htilt we were Mncdbyiieroft the 24th. -^.-t The wirid was now very high, so that we could ry hiardly any sail ; we eiadeavoiired to make Cape illiscr, but we had such a. hard g&lefbr twodayi, hat'drove us off the land just as we were in sight of port- This was very mortifying; but two favourable Bircumstaikcefi attended it, for we were ir. no danger if a ke^shore, and it was fair over head In the even* igof the dfith, we endeavoured to find the Adven^ |uK, which the storm had separated, but without ecty the weather being so ha^y that we could not ee a mile round us. On the 28th, we saw the Adventure about five liles to leewiird, and we kept compaily n^ith her tHi [he night of the 29th, when she disappeared^ nor did re see her at day-light. Charlotte's Sound was the bpoioted place of rendezvous ; and as we had sepa> m- wmat fi r m 224 CAPTAIN cook's rated from the Adventure, we were obliged to r>ake for It, otherwise Captain Cook would have 8ou{»hta supply of wood and water farther south. We stood i to the eastward, in hopes of meeting with the Ad. ' venture. ^ I On the 2d of November, the morning was clear, {und we kept a sharp lookout for the Adventure; bur ns we could not see her, we judged she was got into the Sound. We accordingly made for the shore, and anchored in tweKe fathoms water, when several of the inhabitants came on board, who were cxtrava. gantly fond of nails. We ran up into Ship Cove orI the 3d, where we expected to find the Adventure, but were disappointed. Here we were obliged to unbend the sails, which had been very much damaged 111 the latfv storms. Several people came on board,! \i'ho remembered the Endeavour when on this coast. The empty casks were ordered on shore, and the nece> sary repairs both to them and the ship were ordered tol be made. ^ I On the 5th, one of the natives took an opportu*! Bity of stealing one of the seamen's bags of clothoj which with some difficulty we recovered. This made] our people more cautious in future. Sext day, and could not adddmplish oiir iesign. On the 25th, we foUhd ourselves in a plea- urnt climate, and ho ice !iri View ; and on the 26tb, iaihea third time withiii thel Antarctic circle, '^^'v On the 30ih, wc saw a very extensive field of rep, [nd within the field, we distinctly" enumerated' rtnety- Even ice hills, of various sizes ; it is probible ^that uch mountains of ice were tie ver see it in 'the' 0'rfeeh« mdseas. On this account, the attempt to get fa r- lier to the south, though not* absolutely impossible, rasyet both rash and dangerous. The majority of were of opinion that ice extended to the pole, as it light possibly join some land to which it had been Dntiguous since the earliest times. Should there be |indio the south behind this ice, it certainly can af-^ )rd no better retreat for man, beasts, or birds, than ^e ice itself, with which it must certainly be covered. \i we could not go any farther to the south, we 5 F f thought. ^126 cAPtAiK Cook's thought it advisable to tack, and stand back totbe north, being at this time in lat. 71 deg. 10 min. sj and 106 deg. 54 min. W. Happily for Us we tacked in good time; for we had no sooner done it, than a| thick fog came on, which would have been highlJ ^angerous when we fell in with the ice. ' I- On the 1st of February, we weire able to take ini some more ice, which, rtiough it was cold work tol collect, served us for present Consumption wh^ol melted. Captain Cook was now well satisfied tfiatl no continent was to be found in this ocean, but thtf which is totally inaccessible; he therefore determine to pass the ensuing winter within the tropic, if hJ toet with no other object worth putSuin^. Itwd determined to stechr for Eaister Island, orDavrs^sLanJ] which we knew very little about ; and vre were happ at the thoughts of getting into a warnier climate We had continual ^ales irom the 8th to the I2tt instant, when it fell a dead calm. The weather t Tied every day considerably till the 25th. The san ^ay, C!l$ptain Cook^ was taken so i^l a& to be obiig to keep his bed, ,and,rf coveted very slowly. Iti something very extraoi=0inary, th^t w'hen he codjl cat nothing else, he had. a n\ind to a dog df ^orster's^ which was killed, and lie reKshed berth i flesh and the broth made 6i it. Tlfli; '^eriihs very ol kind of food for a sick miiii ; and in'il^'e qpinioiif tnany people, wpuld create ilaaiih gtt^tefr lickntl ihan it was likely to be any meflns x^f 'fcliioving. On the ll'th of March, latxd vvaS ^en from mast-head, which proved to be t^stfer Inland ; and the 1 3th, we came toain anchor in 36 fathoms i before the sandy beach. One of the natives on board the ship, where he staid two iilghts. party of us went ashore on the 14th, and found aj number of the natives assembled, Who were pacifi inclined, and seemed desirous to seie us. u6 soon found out that these gentlemen were as t%f thieves as any before met V/ith j we roUld seal keep any thing in our pockets^ «nd it wtts with dil SECOND V0YAC9., 227 lilty we could keep our hats upon our beads. These iople seemed to understand the use of a musket, an4 ^be very much afraid of it. Here were severajl Uantations of potatoes, sugar-canes* and plantains j U otherwise the country appeared barren and with- U food. As the natives did not seem willing to part nth these anicleg, and as we were in want of them, vc determined to stay only a few days. A party of officers and men were sent up the Duntry in order to examine it; and Captain Coolc jained on shore among the natives. An advan- geous trade for potatoes was opened, but soon put [Stop to by the owners of the spot from whence they ^ere dug. It seems that they had stolen these pota- pes; for they all ran away at his approach. From his circumstance it is pretty evident, that they are not bore strictly honest among themselves than to s.tran- lers. They found the gre;atesit part of the is]aud bar- 3, though in many places there were plantations .of He roots before mentioned. Travelliqg on, they found in some placejs ^ pqpr Irt of iron ore, and afterwards came to a fruitful^ irt of the island on which were several plantai)(ions. [bey could get no good wat^r tn their joLirney ; but fere obliged to drink what they could get, on ^c-!- wnt of the extremity of ihelr l^irst. They fouoj £ natives so addicted to tUeft, that they w^re^lige4 ) fire some small shot at la rpan whp took frqm th<^ leir bag of provisions and implements. Xhe ^ot hit lis fellow in the hack, pn which be ^dropped :the bag 1(1 fell.} but he soon afterwa^i^ds j[9t:up;ai>d waLkefl T. The man ran round them and repeated ;Sev€;ral ords^ which they could not .underst^(^di ^apd after- wds they were good frie^lds toge.thcH*, jjio Qpc .,pffit lletnptingtp^teal any moKfJ- Many of 9ur people gain.ed Ihe summiit qf an hi]];^ It could not see anytbay or cre^k* nor d^cpver^ny ps of fre,sh water. They nqturucditp ,thje:Ship Jl* evening;, No shrubs worth owntipi^ing vret^ •29 CAPTAIN cook's found in this excursion, neither did they see anani. nial of any sort, and but very few birds. They could not discover any thing in the whole island to induce! ships in the utmost distress to touch at it. >1 :■ n:' CHAP. V. The Resolution sails from Easter Island to the Mar(jut\ sas—Departs from the Marquesas, with an accouA of the inhabitants y^c. — The Resolution leaves Old heile — Her arrival at the island Huaheine — VamA incidents related — The ship proceeds to UliefeaJi fncidejits during her staii, and the character i Oedidee. ON the 16th of March, we took our departun from Easter Isle, and steered for the Marques islands, intending to make some stay there, if nothinJ ipaterial intervened. On the 6th of April, we disco vered an island, when in lat. 9 deg. 20min. andlonf 138 deg. 14 min. we were about nine leagues disj tance from it. We soon discovered another, afterw?n ^ third and ifourth ; these were the Marquesas, dis yered in 1595. After various unsuccessful trials come to an anchor, we came at last before Mendani'j port, and anchored in thirty-four fathoms water, i the entrance of the bay. Several canoes appeared, filled with natives, it was with some difficulty they were persuaddl come along-side ; they were at last induced by spike nails and a hatchet. From these people wcj some fish and fruit. Great numbers of them along-side next morning, and brought with them pig, some bread-fruit land plantains, for which tb received nails. We often detected them in keepoj our goods^, and making no return ; which prac was not put a stop to till Captain Cook fired a mu ball over the head of one man, who h^d repeated served us so. , . . . SECOND VOYAGli* 221^ When Captain Cook saw there were too many na« Lyes on board, he desired that they might be well 1 looked after, or they would certainly commit many thefts. Before the captain was well got into the boat, he was told that some men in a canoe, were making off with one of the iron stancheons from the opposite gangway. The captain immediately Iprdered them to fire over the canoe, but not to kill anr body. There was suck a noise on board, that Ihis orders were not distinctly heard, and the poor Ithief was killed at the third shot. The rest that were in the canoe leaped overboard, but got in again just as Captain Cook came up to them, and threw overr Iboard the stanchcon. One of the men sat laughing as he laded the blood land water out of the boat, but the other looked very serious and dejected. We afterwards had reason to think that the father of the latter had been shot. The natives retired with the greatest precipitation at this un- bappy accident ; but their fears were in some measure allayed by the captain's following them into the bay, land making them presents. A man who had the appcflrance of a chief, came loif to usVith a pig upon his shoulder; he was pre- sented with a hatchet in return, and afterwards great puipbers of the natives came along-side, and carried Ion some traffic. Peace being now established, ano- ther party of men were sent ashore. The natives re^ ceived us -civilly, and we got a supply of water, as well as some hogs and fruit. On the 9th, we col^ ilected a good many pigs and other refreshments, and [returned on board in the evening. We also obtained several pigs from the different canoes that came along- side of us on the 10th, and by this time wehada suf* I ficient number to afford the crews a fresh meal. We were now determined to remove our quarters, l&nd make sail for Otaheite, hoping to fall in with some of those islands; where our wants might efiec* jtually be relieved^ We bad been nineteen weeks at I sea, living the whole time upoo 6ah provisions, and therefore; t 1^6 CAPTAIN cook's therefore could not but want some refreshments ; jti we. must own with grateful ackn«wJedgments to goodnesi supreme, that on our arrival here, it could scarcely be said we had one man sick, and but a few who had the least complaint. On the 14th., we weighed from St. Christina, and stood over for La Dominica, and the night was spent in plying between the two isles. On the 12th, ue steered to the S. and at five P. M. Resolution Bay bore £. N. £. half £. distant five leagues, and the island of Magdalena about nine leagues, which waij |he ooly view we had of it. ..Oq the 20th, hauling round the west end of the j islands, we found a great swell, rolling in from the S, by which we knew 'we were clear of these low islands, ind being not within sight of land, made the best of our way to Otaheite, having a strong gale at £. at< tended with showers of rain. On the 21st, we made the high land of Otaheite ; by sun-set we were in with Point Venus, and the next morning anchored in MaJ tavai Bay« in seven fathoms water. Our arrival wu no sooner known to th^ natives, than t^ paid us a[ visit, expressed the most lively congra:. ...ons, supplied us with fish and fruit sufficient tor all the{ Crew. On the 24th, Otoo and other chiefs, with a traiol of attendants, brought us ten large hogs, besides fruit, which made their visit exceedingly agreeable.] As the king's coming had been announced to us, knowing haw much it was our interest to keep thiil chief our friend. Captain Cook met him at the tents^j and conducted his retinue, with himself on board. where the^y staid dinner, and appeared highly pleased with thek reception. Next day, notwithstanding we had much thunder, lightning, and rain, the k\m came again to see us, and brought with him ano- ther present. When at Amsterdam, we had coM lected, among other curiosities, somp red parrot ie^hers. Xhcse precious valuables ;procured ml SECOND VCTAOe, 83 1 liogs, fruit> and every other thing the island af- Ifofdcd. On the 26th, Captain Cook, accompanied by some Lf the officers and gentlemen, went down to Oparree, |to visit Otoo by appointment. When arrived, we saw L large number of canoes in motion, but were much Lrprised at perceiving more than 300 ranged along ihore, all completely equipped aad manned ; besides vast number of armed men on the shore. We landed |in the midst of them, and were r and Tee by he other, and dragged them, aii it were, through the ^rotrdthat was divided iiito two parties, both a^di to ledvc hsni «fo Ihe admiral and his ^krty, who 6MidUeted kim to fleet. _. ' • ■ •■■' ii^^'rf i- ■ '"L.)' -r When we came to the flee^ we told i6(> ittcge louble canoes, equipped, matin^di iiiid 'ttnM. ■■ The chiefs, and all those on the ^ghtini' ttajgea^ w«re ba- ited m doth, turbans, breast<^lms(> and helmets. "leir vessefk were full dressed with fiaes, atrealnert, c. so that the fleet inade uich a noble appeSkrantse we had never before seen in tWts ^ea, atid what no !ie could have expected. Their instruments of w^r i^ere clubs, spears, and stoned; We' cbwHed, ja« |!lusiveof the vessels of war> 170as(il of smaller dodbk canoes. 133 CAPTAIN COOK S canoes, all rigged with mast and sail/ wfiich the wsr canoes had not. These we judged' were designed fori transports, victuallersj&c. for in the war canoes were! no sorts of provisions whatever. , Wc conjectured that in their 330 ve?^Is, there! ^ere no less than 7760 men ; a number incredible I especially as v'e are told they all belonged to the dij.'| iridts of AttahpuTou and Ahopatae. Having viewed! this fleet, it was our intention to have gone on board I could we have seen the admiral. At last Tee camel by whom we were informed that he was gone toj Matavai. When we got to Matavai, our friends toldl us, that this fleeb was part «f the armament intendcdl to^o against Eiemoj whose chief had thrown off tbj ^ke of Otaheite. o::>On the 27thi in the morning, Towha sent us bJ l>is < servants^ two targe hogs and some fruit. Thi| 'bearers of this present had orders not to receive aoJ thing in return, por Would they when offered then Some of our gentlemen went with the captain in bii boa to Oparrec, wh»re we found Towha and th •king ;; after a shori^ visit, he brought them both board^ together with Tarevelpq, the king's youngc brother. When they drevv near the ship, the adrnj rbl, who had i^ycr seen one before, expresed strong signs of surprize, and when on board, he was shewed and beheld: eyery part of if with great attention rWhcn Towha rjBtired. after-dinner, he put a ho on board without our knowledge, or waiting for return ; and soon after Otoo and his attendants d9 fwiBfed alsolio) ;-7> ,;^' .?» :>fi On.the Ntof May, several chiefs supplied us will a large qpantity of provisions ; and the day followinj our friend Towha sent us a present of a hog, andi boat loaded with various sorts of fruits and roots. the 7th, in the morning, we found Otoo at the tenli of whom the captain asked leave to cut down soo trees for fuel. He took him to a tree groining near tb sea shore, the better to make him understand what! he wanted : and he seemed much pleased when hetoli hill lEiCOKD V0TA6B. 2S$ mm no trees should be£Ut down that bor^ any kind of \bmi. This assurance (wm us he repeated several times IsJotid to the people about us. In the afternoon, when on board, we were bo-» ired with a visit from the royal family, consisting of too, his father, brother, and two sisters : but this liras properly the father's visit, who brought the Cisptain complete mourning dress, a piresent he much valued ^ which he bad in return whatever he desired, which vas not a little ; and to the rest of the £ompan^ were presented red feathejB. They were then conducted sb'ore in. the captain's boat.. Otoo and his friends i/ereso well pleased with the nsception (they met witii; (hat, at parting, we wciie glinted the • liberty to cu* iown as many trees as we wanted, ftr«d what soat irepleased. 3 >. . '. < On the 8th, our friendly connections with the na- tives were intecrupted by the negligence of one of pur centinels at the Refits, who had his musket carried iway, he having slept or i quitted hi^i post. We re* eived an imperfect account of this a6ktr from Tee, jt understood enough, to know that something had liappeiied, which alarmed the king, "who. Tee said, wils lindc: great flpprehci\sions of being killed. . . We there- fore lost no time in going ashore ; and when landed, vere Informed of the traosaction by the Serjeant who Jommandcd the party. Most pf the natives ; had. fled our approaching the tents. Tarevatoe sUpt.fram bs in a moment, aud a very few besides Toe ihad purage to remain. :.;■,■ We went immediately in search of Otoo, and m ie way endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, laving advanced some distance from th'» shore in the Jountry, Tee on a sudden stopped, and advised bur tlurning, saying, he would proceed to the mountains, fhither Otoo had retired, and inform him that we wre still his friends. The captain thought it was to |o purpose to go farther, we therefore took Tee's ad- [ice, and returned on board; ^ 5 G g ' , . A£icf. fU CAPTAIN COOK t Aft^r this, Oedidee was dispatched to the king to let him know his fears were groundless, seeing the captain required of him only what was in his power ti^e return of the musket. A short time after, we saw six large canoes coming round Point Venus. Suspect J ing that one belonged to those that had committed thfrl theft, it was resolved to intercept them, for which [ piurpose a boat was ^.(it off, and aocther ordered to follow. One of the canoes was ahead of the rest, and seemingly making for the ship. We put along-sidel bf her, and found three women that we knew. Theyl said, they were going aboard the ship with a present lb' the captain, and that the other canoes were laden with fruit, hogs, &c. Satisfied with this intelligencej the captain recalled his orders for intercepting then,! thinking they also, as well as this one, were bound toti ihe ship. < We therefore left the single canoe, and proceedei| tu shore, to speak whlivOtoo ; but upon landini found he had not been; there. Looking behind i we saw all the canoes, the one we had left nearth iship not excepted, making off in the greatest haste.- -Vexed at being thus deceived, we resolved to pursu thetti, and as we passed the ship, Captain Cook gavtl .orders to send out another boat for the same purpose] We overtook and brought five out of the six j tside, but the one by which we were outwitted goi clear off. . In- one of the prizes was a friend of Mr. Forstcr'ij who had hitherto called himself an Earee, also thr women, his wife, daughter, and the mother of th late Tootaha. At this time. Tee and Oedidee can on board, and assured us, that the man who had stok the musket uas from Tiarabou ; and, that we mign credit their declaration, they desired us to send a to Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, offering to gj themselves in her, and recover the musket. TJir story, though not altogether satisfactory, carried wit| it an air of probability ; ftnd thinking it better to dri^ SECOHD VOYAGE. 235 llhe affair altogether, the captain suffered Mr. Forster's , fiend to depart with his canoes. The captain then desired Tee to tell Otoo, that he khould give himself no farther concern about the mus- ket, being satisfied none of his people had committed the theft. We had now given it up» concluding it to be irrecoverably lost, but in the dusk of the evening, it ws brought to the tents, together with other things re had not missed, by three men, who, as well as some bther people present, affirmed, that it was by one be- longing to Maritata the things had been stolen ; but re concluded both Tee and Oedidee had intentionally Received us. On the 9th, Tee came again aboard to inform us, bt Otoo was at Oparee, and requested of the captain J send a person to let him understand if he was still lis friend. He was asked why he did not do this [imsetf as he Was desired ? he made a trifling excuse, [ut we thought he had not seen Otoo. As the natives sught not any thing to market, and a stop was con- luently put to our trade with them, it was judged Ime ill spent to send any more fruitless messages ; a jrty therefore set out, with Tee in our company, and iving reached the utmost boundaries of Oparee, the |ngat last made his appearance. The first salutations being over, a- * having taken ' jfseats under the shade of some trees, Otoo desired ke captain to speak. He began with blaming th king Ir giving way to groundless alarms, he having ah'ays rofessed himself liis friend, and was displeased only lith those of Tiarabou, who were the thieves. The ^ptain was then asked, how he came to 6re at the ca- es? By way of excuse, he told him they belonged to laritat^, one of whose people had stolen the mus- [t, and, added the captain, '* If 1 had them in my Jwer, I would destroy them, or any other belonging the district of Tiarabou*^** We knew this declaration Duld please them, from the natural aversion the orte ha^ to the otheT ; and it was enforced by pre- G g SI scntSj, (( $ss CAPTAIK COOK*t sents, whidi we believe were the strongest argrnne^J in favour of a reconciliation : for after these weighttl reasons, things were soon restored to their former sute I by Otoo's promising, on the word of a king, that ^| fhould be supplied the next day with provisions aoiil fruit as usual. Peace and amity being now once more established we accompanied him to his propfer residence at Opare where he obliged us with a view of some of his dockj yards, where we saw several large canoes» some buili ing and others lately built, some of which wereth(| Urgest we had ever ieen. Having graitiified our curi» sity, we repaired on board, with Tee in our companj who, after he had dined with us, went toacqaiin Happi, the king's father, that all difierences werj brought to a ha|>py conclusion. In the afternoon, Otoo himself brought us a lai] supply of provisions, and presently after, more fruit i bro(\ght '4s than we "knew wbat to do with ; for tb ziatiyes, we believe, thought themfi^lves injured equa "with ourselves ; and we knew they had every thing i for our market, when they were permitted to bring then Otoo desiring to see some of our great ^ns fired, wish was complied with, but the sight being endn new, gave him as much pain ^ pleasure ; but in i Qberea, whom we had not seen sii i 769^ paid us a visit, bringing with her hog^ and id Otoo ftls9 came soon after, with a number of atte ants, and a large quantity of provisions. Captain i ^f s Yeryg^neroiis i|i his v^tRtns of presents, and iol ■ ■ ' ' evcnii 8£GOKD VOYAGE. Wt leftrAvs entertained them with 6re*works» thiDkmg tt migh' be the last time we might see tbe$e ^ieiidly pep* pie, /i^hohad so liberally relieved our wants. ' On the .ISth, we were not ready to taii, butihe lirind was favQurable and the weather fair. Oedfdee Las not yet returhcd from Attahourou, aiod various leports were circulated concerning him. Some saifi be was at Matavai ; others, that he intended not tp re- turn ; and there were those who aifi&rn^d he wa$ at Oparee. With a view of diwovcring the truths a party of \i8 repaired to Oparee, where we found hira. Taiw^ Ua was al!»o here, who notwithstanding be wasalHicte4 with a swelling in his feet and legs, .oeverthelQss ns^ jolved to see the captain before he «ailedf aod had advanced with this intent th^js far .«») his journey. Tbfi day being far spent, we were oblij^d to shorten «i|r stay, and after having teen Olop, w« ^^Mjrned {^i jboard with Ocdidee. This youth, we foAMid* was desiroua of remaining {atOtaheite; the captain, therefore, t(»ld him he was at liberty to remain there, or lo quit us at Ulieteii. qr U with us to England. That if the latter was his choice, he must kok upon him m his/alher, as it m^ Uery probable he would Kicver returjfi to ihis own eAm>« Ufy.^Xhe yottt^ threw his arm^ about his neck, iws^t much, and said, masiy of his friends persuaded hifw 1(0 remain at Otaheite. Oedidee w«i weU beloved int^ Isbip, ?n which account evrery one wa« |»eravadif)g ^/fi to go with ua. - On the 14th, early in the nMrniag, Oedidee eame on board, and Mr. Forster prevaikd upon him tp ^ with us to UHeitea. Tewha, IVtatouu *€)iamq, H^pf» Oberea,aQd nmny more of our friendsi, :paid us a (vi&it. The wife of Toiwba was with him; thia phief 4vas hoisted in« and plaeed on a chair «n jtbe quarter-deck t Among other presents, we gave the adipiralan &ag- {lish pendant, which, aliicr hehad been instriaffted in the use of it, pleased him move than i^l the rest. The [taDie day, the king, and Tee, his primie minister, cama ' I wm m mmmm^ 29iB CAPTAIN COOK S catae oft i^oard, and brought with them a hog and i turtle of about sixty pounds weight, whoi after remain. ingon board some time»toolc an aflectionate farewel. On Sunday the Utb, we put to sea, with a fine I breeze in our favour, and pursued our voyage to the N. W. and N. W. by W. The same night we made the island of Huaheine, and anchored in the north! entrance of CWharre harbour. Oree, the chief, and several of the natives, paid us visits. Oree among other articles, brought with him a hog ; and the next day Captain Gook returned Oree*s visit, presenting to hiJ some nd feathers, which the held in his hand, and mut* tered over then*, a prayer. This morning the people began to bring us fruit. The chief sent us two hottl . which were followed by himself and friends, who came to dine with us. Oree asked for axes and nails which were readily given him. After dinner, Mr. Forster, and a parly with hioi, went up the country to examine its productionsjl which he continued as a daily task during theship'fl continuance in thts harbour. As a servant of Mr.[ Forster's was walking along the shore, without a com. pahbn, he was beset by several stout fellows, wJiol would have stripped him, had not some of our people I arrived to his assistance. One of the men madeoffl with a hatchet. This day, the number of natives tbatl came about the ship was so great, that it was foundl necessary to place centinels in the gangways, to prJ vent the men from coming on board ; but no oppotiJ tion was made to the women, so that the ship w»| crouded with them. I On the 17th, we found Oree, and a great numberl of the principal people, assembled in a house consulr'l ing together. We heard the late robbery mentionedl by them several times ; but the chief assured us, nei>| ther himself nor hi^ friends had any hand in the same,f and desired Captain Cook to kill with his guns thostj that had. We could not learn where the robbers wwl gone, and therefore^ at present, took no more notice ofl ' • ' the! SECOND VOYAOK, 239 Ibeafialr. In the evening a dramfttic entertainment ras exhibited. The subject of the piece wa& iha of . girl running away with usfromOtaheite^ This was got wholly a fiction, for a girl bad taken her passage fith us from Ulietea, and was at this time present' rhenherown adventures were: represented; she could rdly refrain from tears .wfaile^ the play was acting;, id it was with much difficulty we persuaded her to. [fay out the entertainment. At the conclusion of the; Uece, the gh-l's return to her friends was represenr [ed} and the reception she met was not a favour* Ible one. It is . very probable that this part of the )medy was designed to deljer others from going away nth us. 'tmi'f^**'t Iv***)*!--*'! r*^:t .'j^ifj On the 18th, king Oree came on board and dined^ Lnd the captain, at his desire^ ordered the great gtma [o be shotted and fired into the water, by way pfa sa^ jte at his arrival.and departure; indeed, he had by! edidee given us to understalodi thai he expected tho ime honours to be paid to'bim,. as had ban^ after it h^^ rained Dme time, the natives pointed out some, Ij^rds. for hem to shoot. One of the guns went oij",:^ and! the Iher missed fire several times. At this in^t^nt^ when lie fellows' saw themselves secure from^ l^jv, U^y took opportunity to run away; at)d not o^,p|*||^e pa^ty» sing all mtich surprised, bad presence of QH^Jt^ou^h pursue them. ) ;, \: r On the 19th, a report was current, that thV n^tive$ itended to rise and attack the ship. The captain| kough he did not think them serious in such an at<- |mpt, yet was unwilling totally to disregard the in- lation; he therefore ordered twenty stand of arms be in readiness, in case any commotion should be observed ^m CAVTAtir cook'i (4>Mn«f the affray ;.;but some chiflfo interfering, to the offieeW'<>utof the crr^vd* and caused every tbii iihidh^hild been taken from them to be restored. *>^On Ai^2ilst,wesaw upwards of sixty canoes, df thfpebplt in them being Eareeoies, steering for UH et^a,ahdwe%eard they were going to visit their ^ ttireti ihllieneighbouringisUnds. Itaeemsthesci -pie Ime ctfitttms among'them peculiar to theraselvfl ind a^isi ^6h o«het«wben nerossity requires : we n therelbk aill them t^c Firoe Masons of . HuabeiDfcf; This day Oree sent a message to Captain Cook, der ine he would come on shore, and brmg iwenty-tp then with him, in order to chastise the lobbcrs. 0^ dee brought with him tweiity-two pieces^ of IcswJ assbthis lacmpry 4 a custom very common «mongtH ij:^v SECOND VOYAGE. 241 People. This message seerrted to be an extraordinary one, and therefore the captain went to the chief for better information. Oree informed him that these fel- |)ow8 were a set of banditti, who had formed themselves linto a body, and had resolved to rob all they met, for Iwhich purpose they were now assembled and armed. •se robbers Oree wanted us to attack ; the captain lid they would fly to the mountains ; but he assured us the contrary, and desired we would destroy both jthem and their habitations, only Sparing their canoes. [This request seemed extraordinary, but the captain was )lved to comply with it in part, lest these fellows bould make more head, and become formidable j and Iso with a view of preventing the report from gaining ground in Ulietea, where we intended going, and rhere we were apprehensive associations might be {formed in like manner, and the people might treat, us (be same way, or worse, they being more numerous. Captain Cook and his officers made ready to ac- ompany king Oree in the expedition against the rob- srs; and having ordered fifty marines, with some lilors, to be well armed, they landed near the pa- jace of the king, and having required him to conduct bem according to his promise, he very readily con- Bnted, and I hey all set out together in very good order, le party increased as we proceeded ; and Oedidee [old us, that several of the banditti had joined us, with 1 view of decoying us into a place where they might ttack us to advantage. As we could place no con- Kdence in any other person, we took his advice, and proceeded with caution. We marched several miles, when Captain Cook de- flared he would proceed no farther ; besides, we were nformed that the men had fled to the mountains. Ac bis time we were about to cross a deep valley, with jteep rocks on each side^ where our retreat might have :n rendered diflicult, by a few men assulting us with }nes. Oedidee persisted in his opinion; and we narched back in the same order as we came, e Hh As 242 CAPTAIN COOK'S' As we went along, we observed several people coming down the sides of the hills with clubs, which they immediately hid when they Found we saw thcQ. This was some confirmation of Oediddee*s suspjcionil but we could not persuade ourselves that the chief ha4 any such intention, whatever might be the designs of his people. In our return we halted a in convenimt place, and ivanting some refreshments, they were ju). mediately brought us. When we arrived at the landing-place, we discharg. ed several vollies, to convince the natives that we could support a continual fire ; after which we returned oq board, and the chief dined with us, having brought with him a hog ready dressed. After dinner we recei?J ed a great number of presents as peace-offerings. Two ' chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, and somt young plantain trees, and with due ceremony presented them singly to the captain. Another brought a very large hog, with which he had followed us to the ship.! A quantity of fruit was brought us by others ; so tbit] we were likely to make more by this little excunionj than by all the presents we had made them ; and the expedition had one good effect at least, for the people were convinced that muskets were more terrible thiogi than they at first imagined. We were promised a larger supply of hogs andfroit the next day ; but the chief was not as good as his word. { We went ashore in the afternoon, and found him ting down to dinner. The people about him immedi*! ately began chewing the pepper-root ; a cup of the juice j was presented to Captain Cook, but he did not like the] method of brewing it. Oedidee was not so nice, sod] immediately swallowed what thei^ptain refused. The] chief washed his mouth with cocoa-nut water after bel hiid taken the juice of the pepper-root, and ate a large I quantity of plantain, repe, and mahee, and finished Dii| dinner by eating ^nd drinking a composition of plaihl tains, bread-fruit, mahee, &c. of the consistence of t custard; Qf this he took about three pints. He dined ii] the SECOND VOYAGE. 24S the OpM ^r at the out»ide of his house, and during din- ner time a play was perfornning within the house. On the d3d| we put to sea. The chief and Captain Cook took an affectionate leave of each other. When I Oree heard that we never intended coming there any I pore, he said, *< Let your sonscome, we wiH treat them well." We did not get a sufficient supply of hogs at this island, though they did not appear to be scarce ; bat we obtained more fruit than we well knew what to do with. Our stock in trade being nearly exhausted, we found it necessary tc/set the smiths to work, in loaking different sorts of iron tools, that an influence Light be kept up at the other islands, and to enable t to procure refreshments. On the 24th, we anchored in Ulietea, and were vi- flted by Oreo the chief, who brought with him a hand- mt present. A party of us went ashore to make the chief a present, and as we entered his hous^ we were net by five old women, who lamented very bitterly. Bad cut their faces in a shocking manner. This wai )t the worst part of the story, for we were obliged to ibmit to their amiable embraces, and get ourselves bovered with blood. After this ceremony wns over, [hey washed themselves, and appeared as cheerful as iber persons. On the 27th, Oreo paid us a visit, in company with jiis wife, son, and daughter, and brought with them a handsome present of all kinds of refreshments. — h accompanied them on shore after dinner, and were ntertained with a play, which concluded with the )resentation of a woman in labour, performed by a of brawny fellows ; the child that was brought irth was at least six feet high. As soon as the child m delivered, they pressed his nose, which seemed to iicate that they really take this method with all their lildren, which occasions that flatness which theit generally have. On the 2dth, several things were stolen out of our >ats, which lay at the buoy; but on application to chief, we had them all returned) except an iron Hb2 tiller. 244 CAPTAIN COOK'S tiller, and in lieu of that they brought us t wo large honi, On the SOrh, a party of us set out for Oedidee's estate aceompanied by the chief and his family. When we arrived there, we found that Oedidee could not com. ^and any thing, though he had promised us hogs and fruit in abundance ; they were now in possession of hji brother. We had here an opportunity of seeing then kill and dress a pig, which was done in the following manner : three men 6rst strangled the hog ; the hog wii laid on his back, two men laid a stick across his throat, pressing at each end, the third man stuffed up his fun. dament with grass, and held his hind legs. The hot * was kept in this position for ten minutes, before he wa dead. An oven which was close by, was heated.^ ^ They laid the hog on the fire as soon a^ he was dead, and singed off his hair ; he was then carried to xh>t 5^ side and washed. The carcase was then laid on cifan green leaves, that it might be opened. They first took] out thelard, and laid it on a green leaf, the entrails wi then taken out and carried away in a basket ; the blood was put into a large leaf. The hog was then washed quite clean, and several hot stones were put into hii body ; it was then placed in the oven on his belly, I'le lard and fat were put into a vessel, with two or 01 | cover a port about a league more to the south, whe we anchored in eleven fathoms water. Several of tb natives came off to us, but acted with great cautionil at last they trusted themselves along-side, and exchang] cd arrows for pieces of cloth. Presents were made tot? men who ventured on board, and others came at nigl for the same purpose, but they were not admitted. On ihe 22d, in the morning, we landed, in thefacc( 500 men, armed with bows, arrows, spears, andcluii but they made no opposition. Captain Cook advanc alone, with nothing but a green branch in his hand: seeing this, a person who seemed to be a chief, gan his bow and arrows to another, and came to meet hin in the water, took the captain by the hand, and him up to the croud. The marines were at this tin drawn up on the beach. Captain Cook distributed i vera]- presents among them. We made signs that waati J£COND VOYAGf. 249 Lanted wood, and in return they made signs for u$ to cut down the trees. They brought a pi^ for a peace'ofFering, and we flattered ourselves with the hopes of procuring moret but these were vain and Uelusive ; fot we only got a small quantity of water* laod about half a dozen cocoa-nuts. They patted Ufctiy V^HH their arrowy, but we could not purchase lof thtm any bows without a great deal of dilTiculty* liey called this island Mallicolae, another near it ^pee, and a third Paoon. Continuing our course from hence on the 24th, we fncovered sevefal small islands, one of which we le very ni^ar. It is about twelve miles In circuon- tnct, and has three high peaked hills upon it. We &n passed a gfodp of small islands which we called Snepherds' Isles, and discerned people on tvery of the islands ; but there were no soundings them at 182 fathoms. We found the southern atids to consist of one large island, the eitremities of Ubich we eould not see. On the north sidje of this tensive Island we saw three or four stnaller ones. ne of thete We called Montague, another Hinchin^ K)k, and the largest Sandwich Island. Skveral )ple cante down as We passed Montague Island, nd seemed to lAtite os in a friendly manner on Bre. As w;i tould not approach it at this time; wo fcd mor6 t6 the west, as there a^p<^ated a bj^t^ up in th^t quarter, and a gbod shelter froM the Ms. But as this was tiot so nai|Ch 6i|f bliie^ as to cover the southern extfemity of ithi Ar^ipelago, steered £. S. £. which was the direction of Sand* Island. ; :' • On the Ist of August j we gained the N. W. si!|^ ftlte island, and saw several inhabitants, who invited lashore by various signs. Here we should have ah- 1, but the wind obliged us to alter our design^ idiii we wanted to explore the land to the S. E. kreforc rartged along the coast. As we continued ]r course, we saw a light a-head, and it being near 16 I i evening. m^ w^wmm^mmm ' i**-: 250 CAPTAIN COOk S evening, did not choose to proceed any fasther, but stood ofFand on all night. •«> On the 3d, we sent a boat on shore to get some wood if possible, being much in want of thnt article ^ but our people could not land on account of a high surf of % sea ; and they saw not any natives on that part of thJ isle. Having anchored in seventeen .fathoms waler under the N. W. side of the head land, we sa J several people on the shore, some endeavouring tol swim off to us; but they all retired when they pcjJ ceived our boat approach towards them. On the 14th, a party went out arnied to find a pn.! per landipg-place, and where we might gain a supijJjl ofvvood and water. We gave the inhabi:ants so?jt| nie.^als, &c. with which they appeared muchplfas^^ ^nd directed us to ^ bay (it for our purpose. i\svd jwent alopg the shore, theii;. numbers increased prodigj ously. W^ tried several places to lan^, but did no c-pproye qf their situation. At Icnglji we, came to iine s^ndy J»each, where Captain Cook stepped o| \v,l(hout getting his foot. l,he^ injiabitarits receive hifD wi[l^ gceat politeness. Pne of them, ^^9 app^*i ,^ tO;;be awf^hi^l^ ipade tl}(i natives fc^rm a semicirclfl rrpiundi the; J^ead of the ,boat,,and ^hastised^sucH asal tepip^ds t9 prev|ent it. ,'rh^ir behaviour . was ip^ ever J^'p^pij^grefaye^: yet w^ did liot much lik'j? their ap fif ^^c(5,|^^§&.tb(?y w^rQ All afmed with bows, qrrowsj spf ^^n4 ,&ts. Oji tkU accoupt we kept a goo* foojfj ^t^^i^p^w^^ch^i! particularly the in^^^^ of th chief,, wfio4vaJ[^tfcf^vs to haul the boat on sfiote. Hj renew6<;l Vi%;^2n9 fortl^istolaedone, and theri helil^ conference witn tome of the natives. One, cir^Uffli stance appeared rather suspicious, he refused ann 3pike nails that we offered him. Qaptain Copkiaiipi giately returned to the boat, upon which they altenij td by force to detain us. Very fortunately jbe gjyi, tpard happened to be laid out for th^ captain, to rew: >,nto the boat ; this some of the natives unhooked ftp ^c,§terp:as we. were putting ofF; they hooked It toll o mmmtm SECOND VOYAGE. 251 h^ftdbfthe boat, and atternpied to haul her on shore. Sortie of them were daring enough to take the oars (jtttofihc h)inds of our people. They in some mea- sure desisted on Captain Cook's presenting a musket, i)Qt wtttt on again in an instant, seemingly determin- ed to haul the boat on shore, and to detain us. The chief was at the head of this party, and others stood at!a small distance behind, with stones, darts, and other missile weapons, ready to support them. Our own safety was how become our only consideration, for sigfTs and threats had not the effect we expected. The captain therefore resolved to make the chief sutFer lione, a victim to his own treachery ; but at this criti- cal moment his piece did not go off. This increased iheinnsolence, and they began to assault us with stones, difts, and arrows. We were now ordered to fiie. The first discharge threw them into confusion, but they \»ere very reluctantly driven off the beach with the N'cond. After thii they continued a kind of bush- fighting, by rhrowtng stones from behind trees, and sometimes a dart or two. Four of them lay to all ap- pearance dead upon the shore, but two of them after- wards crawled in among the bushes. That they might understand the effect of our great guns, we fired a four potind shot at them, which, though it fell short, terrified them so much, that we saw no more of them. i On the 5th of August, we weighed anchor, and got clear of the bay, and steered for the S. end of the ishind. We discovered on the S. W. side of the head, a pretty deep bay; its shores iov^, and the land ap- peared to be fertile ; but being exposed to the S. £. winds, until. better known, we thought the N. W. side preferable. ' •«. At sun-set we came in sight of an island, being high table land, bearing E. by S. and also discovered another little isle, which we had passed in the night. We now steers d for the island, and discovered a small inlet which Kjd the appearance of a good harbour.<— Two armed boats, under the command of lieutenant :imitr' ■ I i 2 Cooper 252 CAPTAIir tooxs Cooper, were tent off in order to WQimd» while-ibf ship stood on and off, to be rtadjr to follow, or to af. ford any assistance that might be rsquiied. We ob. serf ed a number of natives on the shore, alsoseveii] canoes; and when our boats entered the harbour xh^ launched some, but came not near. At this time tbi lieutenant made signal for anchoTsgc* and we stood in with the ship, the wind having left us when we w^q within the entrance. The boats were now sent out to find a better andH^i. age I and while we were thus employed, many of thi natives came in parties to the iea.side, all armed ; some swam off to us, others came in canpes. At first they seemed afraid of us, and kept at a distance, but by .degrees waxed bolder, and at length l^ame under our stern, and made some exchanges. Xbose in one of tbe first canoes threw towards us some coQoa nuts. Thf captain went out in a boat, piclce4; themfiip* and i% return gave them several art jclei. Others were induced by this to come along- side, who behaved in a inost ith Solent manner. They attempted to tear our fiag from the|staff, would have knocked the rings if oan therud- der, and we had no sooner thrown out the buoys of the boats than they caught hold of them. We fired a few muskets in the air, of which, they took no noticct but a four-poijnder alarined them so mucb^ that they quitted thejr canoes, and took to the water* But find- ing themselves unhurt, they again got into their canoes, flourished their weapons, hallooed in defiance, and went again to the (tuoys, buta few^ musquetoon shot soon dispersed them. They ?il retired in haste to tki shore, And we ^at down to dinner unmolested^ In the interval of ttiose transactions, an old man who seeowd to be amicably disposed, came several timesji in a snail i capoe, between us and the shore, britiging off ead time cocoa-nuts and yams, for which he took in ext | change whatever we oflfered him. Another was m the gangway when the great gun wag -fired, after which we could not prevail onhinTct^ stay. In the evening SECOND VOTAOfi. 253 efening we landed at the head of the harbour, with I party of men well armed. The natives made not the lleist opposition, thoug;h we had one body on our right. Igod another on Our left, all armed. We distributed laaiong the old people some presents of cloth and mer ^Is, and filled two casks with fresh water. We got ^return plenty of cocoa-nuts, but could not prevail I them to part with their weapons, which they held instantly in a posture of defence. The old man was of these partiesi but by his behaviour we judged m to be pacific. We thought by their pressing so Duchi in spife of all our endeavours to keep them at a ^stance, ' ' ^ little would be wanting to induce then^ j attack " "^ we re-embarked very ^un, and thus robably theit . ';heme was disconcerted. On the 6th, we brought the ship as near the landr Dg-place as possible, that we might over-awe the na- ivei, and cov(»r the party on shore, who were to get jopply of wood and water, which we much wanted. Vhile we werp upon this business, we observed the itives attembling fiom all parts, all armed, to the int of sotQe thousands, who formed themselves [totwodivisionsy asthey did the preceding evening, each side the landing-place. At intervals a canotj off, at times conoucted by oncj two, or thred BDi bringing us cocoa-nuts, See. for which they did [require any thing in return, though We took care ey should always hare something ibbt their princi- intention seemed to be, to kivifo us ashore. The man before^mentiopedy came oflp to! us several timesi tiie captain witK a view of making him un^err id that he wanted lo establish a friendly intercourse, his weapons that were in the canoe; and threw m Of erboard, and made him a present of a piece of th. He understood the meaning of this, for we saw frequently in conversation with his countrymen, whom he made our request known, going first to party, then to another, nor did we afterwards see with his weapons, or in a warlike manner, Soq^ after 254 caHain cook's after a'cahdi^i iiv WhfcH were three meni came under! OUT stern, ^ bhe of ' Whom behaved very outrageously brandishing 1^|k' club, and striking with it the ship')'! 'side; at las(h6 offered to exchange his weapon forj 'String of beads, and other trifles ; these we sent down to him by a line, of ^hich he had no sooner got poJ session, than he tnade ofFj withtout delivering his club. \Ve were rtotiof^y for this; as it afforded us an oppoJ tunity of shewing the pisople on shore th^ effects of ourl Jfire-artns. We therefore, without heisitdtion, complij ixiented this feUbw with the contents oiFa foWling-piccf] loaded with small shot, and Ivhen the others v^ereod of the reacfh of it^usket shot, We fired some musketoom] or wall pieces at them, which made them t&ke loti water. But all this seemed to ttiake very little impi sioil oft the people ashore. Who began t<^ halloo, ai seemingly make a joke of it. Having moored theshiij with her broadside to the landiftgp^ce^ and scarcely musket'shot off, we planted our artillery in' such a mai ner as to Command the whole harbour, and then « barked with a party of seamen, su|>portcd by the rines, and rowed to the landifig-placey where the lives were drawn up in t\*^o divisions. The inferr diate, space between them was about forty ya which were laid a few plantains, tree roots, andayai We made signs for the divisions to retire back, but these they piaid; not the least regard; their nural every moment was augmented, ahd, except three men, not one unarmed. We thought it was better frighten them intd a more peaceable behaviour, : ^erefore a musket was fired over their heads, which a minute had the desired e^ot;biit' they soon retui to their daring behaviour. The ship was then ordei by signal, to fire a few great gons, which presently dj persed them. We landed, and cut down some trei which we put into our boats, and a few small caskii waler, to let the natives see what we chiefly wante Thus far matters were pretty well settled: wcretmi on board t6 dinner, and they all dispersed. ir: •>•// SECOND VOYAGE. 255 On the 7tl>> the Q^tiyes began to ass«f;:ble again^ with their, weappn^; a^^beioiie, but not in such; num- bers: nalwith^#n4ingi thisni^e landed in Or4^r t9 get water and cut,)^opd, (^^Ve four4 mostof the old peo- ple disposed to bo ouCffricndst but the youngeTj. being daring and; in^9l coi« On the ISth, an old roan (pame oh boards (whose loame was Paowang) to dine w,ith us. We took this |Qpportunit]^of sbewingbim cyery part of the ship, and |a variety ot trad j rig art jcles^ hc^pipg he might see some- thing that he Uked, and; so !^ tiafiic be carrie4 00, with Ihe natives for i-efresjirpents. jMut Paowang observed eygry th4qg,witl>indiffcrjen^e,f except a^and^hqx, of whj^, Jje^, tQok jome n^ypfi,, .artdJpimediatcly yim On t|i(; J 5|))y preparations, v^^e n\a()e oti board tp iStsalJ^ Jh^^ay 01)55 of- t^h^^^^ party shot a I'^epf^ iiTip^|e.f^raWj.<^f? whichu wasa nutmeg. Mr. ofiteren(i^|iyoaif)^^ M^^^^t success, to f\nd the tree, yring th9Jr;;5^ji;^, Q^.shore,th(5y observed iqn^ast cif heif lug^rDta^tatjons deep Vjoles dug, four £eetj deep, ni five in diaino hiin. We then made him a present of 2 piece ofctoth and a do^,, which bbtatned his consent und the voice of those thM wet« «le Were assembled near the «i;| teribg-place. The* behaViottt^ of many was friendiyJ of others daring and insolent i which we did not think prudent tbri^nt, ail iM^stiy Witt neairly at Hn end. .On the 1 9th, w^ ^n^fiirM for isailihr, lu th was finished; but the wind befni^ tfniivoorable, tlii| guard and a party of rtdi west senlf ashdl^, to bridi off the'r^mainder of the tree from which We had ctll the trllier. The taptain Went with them, tmd found J nunibisi' of the natives i:bllected tt^^er near m ]and}ng<>place, among whom iraribtts articles weitj dist^lbtited. At the time our pebplb Were gettin some large logs into the boat, the centry preshit his piece alt one of the natives, and, without the Id apparent cause, fired at, and killed hitn. A few the hatives had j list befd^ advanced within the llitiiti to see' What we were about, but dpdh lyeing orden back; they reidily bbeyed. Afi^low 'df' the cetit pretended, that a man had laid his ar^row Ificross i bow, so tftat he apprehended hiniifelf irt daii^rj I fhis bitd been frei^uently doneoiit df a bravado, sh6w they tvere armed, ai^d prepaird equally v^d ouf selves. Captain Cook t^as hrgjHIjr exasperated i this rascars i^ash conduct vind most bf the pieople fie witli SECOND VOYAGE 257 ^Ith the utmost precipitation. The natives were llhrown into such consternation, that they brought . ibundance of fruit, which they laid at our feet. They ill retired when we returned aboard to dinner, and . only a few appeared in the afternoon, among whom eere Paowang and Wha>a-gou. On the 20th, the wind was favourable for getting put of harbour ; we began to unmoor, and having weighed, put to sea. The Resolution being the first hip that ever entered this harbour. Captain Cook liamed it Port Resolution. Its lati is 19 deg. 32 min. 25 sec. and half south, and in 169 deg. 44 most [them of small extent except the southernmost, which ^as named St. Bartholomew. We continued our )urse N. N. W. along a fine coast covered with trees. fn the 25th, at day-break, we were on the north deof the island, and steered W. along the low land \ jdirit, for the bluff-head ; beyond which, at sun-rise, [e taw an elevated coast, stretching to the N. as far iN. W. by W. Having doubled the head, we per- ived the land to lend S. a^ little easterly, and tp form le deep bay, bounded on the W. by the above- fntioned coast. At half past four o'clock P. M. ^« K k 1^ we 25« CAFTAIN VOOK t we tverc only two miles from the \V. shore, to wrik,, We had been driven by a N. £. swell. Here we sat large bodies of the natives collected together. Some ventured off in canoes ; but they took sudden fright at something, nor could all our signs of friendsinip ij duce them to come along-side. On the 26th, we were about eight miles from t,. head of the bay, which is terminated by a low beach) behind which is an extensive flat covered with wood and bounded on each bide by a ridge of mountains. % found our lat. at noon to be 15 deg. 5 min. S. and Ohe o'clock, having a breeze at N. by £. we steered to within two miles of the head of the bay. Mr. Ct per and Mr. Gilbert were sent out to reconnoitre, whi . we stood off and on with the ship. By this time Opportunity was afforded for three sailing canoes tonie up, which had been following us. They wo tiot come along-side, but advanced near enough to celve^such things as were thrown out to them, fastei to a tope. On the return of the boats, we were i foirm«dby Mr. Cooper and others, that they had landt. itt th^ head of the bay near a fine stream of fresh wat^ We steered down the bay, being not in want of i thing, and the wind having shifted to S. S. E. Throq Octttne forepart of the night, on the west side of shore, the country was illuminated with fires, from M-shore, to the summit of the mountains. On Saturday the 27th, at day-break, we found c selves two thirds down the bay, and at noon we we the length of the N. W. point, which bore N. 82 d W: distant five miks ; and by observation, our latit was '14 deg. 89 min. 30. sec. Some of our gentle were doubtful of this being the bay of St. Phiilp St» JagOj because no place answered to the port Vera Cruz ; but the Captain gave very good reas for a contrary opinion. A point is a very vague lei like many others in geography j and what Quirost' the port of Vera Cruz, might be the whole haven harbour^ or the anchorage at the head of the ' SECOND VOYAGE. 359 rbich in tome places may extend farther off tliaa yhere oor boats landed. The liver was probably one those mentioned by Quiros, and, if we were not jcccivcd, wc saw the other. The bay is every where free from danger, and of an unfathomable depth, except near the shores, which ire for the most part low. It hath sixty miles sea coast ; (ighteen on each side, which lies in the direction of S. Iialf W. and N. half E. six at the head ; and thirty -six nn the west side, the directions of which are S. by E. lnd|N. by W. from the head down to two-thirds of its ength, and then N. W. by N. to the N. W. point.—. [he two points which form the entrance of the bay, ^re in the direction of S. 53 deg. E. and N. 53 deg. W. iigtant from each other thirty miles. The bay as well ^sthe flat land at the head of it, is bounded by a ridge |)f hills ; one to the vest is very high., and extends the rhole length of the island. Upon this appeared a lux- |iriint vegetation wherever the eye turned. Hich plan- ations adorned the sides of the hills, forests reared their lowering heads, and every valley was watered with a inning stream ; but of all the productions of nature he cocoa-nut trees were the most conspicuous. On the 28th and 29th, we took every opportunity rhen the horizon was clear, to look out for more land. It none was seen ; it is probable there is none nearer hah Queen Charlotte's Sound. But on the 30th, we jilied up the coast with a fresh breeze. On the 31st, we weathered the S. W. point of the md. The coast, which tends east-northerly, is low, id seemed to form some creeks or coves ; and as we |ot farther into the passage, we perceived some low lies lying along it, which seemed to ex^.end behind St^ artholomew's island. Having now explored the whole Archipelago, the season of the year made it necessary |o return to the sor'h ; but we had yet some time left make observation on any land we might discover etween this and New Zealand ; at which place the faptain intended to touch, in order to recruit our stock K, k 2 of •1' 260 CAPTAIM qOOK^S of wood ad water, for another southern course. To I this end, at five o'clock P. M. we tacked and hauled to the southward, with a fresh gale at S. £: At this tim6 the S. W. poitit of the island Ticrra del Espiritu Santo bore N. 82deg. VJ. which Captain Cook named Cape Lisburne. It lies in lat. 15 deg. 40min. andini 165 deg. 59 min. £. longitude, CHAP. VII. New Caledonia discovered — The Resolution is to depart fi'om Caledonia — Continues her voyage i\ New Zealand — She arrives at Queen Charlcttf!$\ Sound-- An account of incidents while the there. ON the 1st of September, we were out of sight ( land, and no more was to be seen. We cor>ti.| nued our course to the S. V\'. nnd on the 3d, found ourselves in 19 deg. 49 min. and in 165 deg. E. lond On the 4th, we discovered land, which at noon extendJ cd from S. S. E. to AV. by S. distant six leagues, Atliwl P. M. we were six leagues off, when i.ve were stoppedl by a calm. At this time the land extended from S. E[ by S. to W. by N. round by the S. W. but as sorafi openings were seen in the W. could not determine wk-j ther it was one connected land, or a cluster of islands. On the 5th, we observed the coast extended tottiel S.E. of Cape Colnet, and round by the S. W. to. N. wJ by W. We bore down to N. W. and came before ai( opening that had the appearance of a good channelj We desired to enter it, in order to have an opportunit; pf observing an eclipse of the sun. We therefore senll out two armed boats to sound the channel ; and atihef same time saw twelve large sailing canoes near us. Al the morning we had observed them in motion, and coming oflF from different parts ; but some were on the reef, fishing as we imagined. When we hoisted! put our boat, they were pretty near us i but upon seeing SECOND VOYAGE. 261 this, they returned, and our boats followed them. We I now were convinced t'.at what we had taken for open- ings in the coast was low land, all connected, except the western extremity, which as we afterwards learnt, was an island called Balabea. The boats having made a signal for a channel, we stood in with the ship. The officer of the boats reported, that there was good an- chorage, and the natives civil and obliging. We pro- ceeded up the bay, and at length anchored in five fa- Ithoms water. A great number of the natives surrounded us before Iwe got to anchor, in 18 canoes, without any sort of Iweapons, and we prevailed upon one boat to come near Icnough to receive some presents, In return they tied [two fish to the rope, that stunk intolerably. An inter- Icourse being thus opened by mutual exchanges, two of Ithe natives ventured on board the ship ; presently after jshe was filled with them. Some dined with us, but Ithey would not eat salt beef, pork, or peas soup. After dinner time, a party of us went ashore with Brmed boats, and landed amidst a great number of people. They expressed a natural surprise at seeing lenand things so new to them as we were. Presents rere made to such as a man who had attached himself lio Captain Cook pointed out ; but he would not suffer khe captain to give the women who stood behind, any Beads or medals. Having by signs enquired for fresh rater, some pointed to the east, others to the west j but m friend undertook to conduct us to it, and for that purpose embarked with us. We rowed near thr^e liles to the E. and entered a narrow creek or river rhich brought us to a little straggling village, where |jc shewed us fresh water. The tide not permitting us to stay any longer in the creek, we took leave of these amicable people, from ^hom we had nothing to expect but good nature, and [hcpriviiege of visiting their country without molesta- |iori,a« it was easy to see these were all they could be- Itow. Though this did not satisfy our demands, it |ave us much ease and satisfation, for they certainly eifcelled 262 CAPTAIK COOK S la excelled all the natives we had hitherto met with friendly civility. On the 12th, early in the morning, the captain be, ing desirous of stocking the country with hogs as well as dogs, he took with him a young boar and sow, and went up the creek, in search of his friend, the chief, in order to give them to him. The natives informed uj that he lived at some distance, but they would send for him : but he not coming as soon as we expected, Cap. tain Cook resolved to give them to the first man of con, sequence he met with. In consequence of this deter- mination, they were offered to a grave old man, who shool^ his head, and nr.ade signs for us to take thenn into the boat again. On our refusing to comply, they seemed , to hold a consultation what was to be done. xVfter this, our guide conducted us to the chief, and he accordingly M us to a house, where eight or ten middle aged persons were seated in a circle, To theie the captain and his pigs were formally introduced.-^ They desired thp capt^^in» with great courtesy, to be seated, who began to expatiate on the merits of hit pigs, explaining to them their nature and case, and isow they would multiply : in short, he enhanced their V9)ue as much as possible, that they might take the more care of them. In return for our present, we had sij5 yams before us, after which we returi.,^d oi| board. )n the afternoon we made a trip to the shore, and on a tree near the watering-place, an inscriptii was cut, setting forth the ship's name, date, 8cc.asi memorial and proof that we were the first discover of that country. Having now fully sitislied our curiosity, we returned on board, when the captain ordered all the boats to hoisted in, that we might be ready to sail, and put t seii. The inhabitants, of this country are strong, robust, active, friendly, coqrteous, and not addicted to pil« fering, as all other nations are in this sea. They hawj in general good features ; but in some we saw a rescnii blance o^* the negroes ; having thick lips, flat nosesj m "SECOND VOYAGE, 263 and full cheeks. Their hair and beards are black. The former is very rough and frizzled. Some have their hair tied up in clubs, and others, as well as the women, wear it cropped short. They also wear their beards cropped in the same manner. The women in this island are very chaste, and we never heard that any of I our people ever obtained the least favour from any one of them. Indeed their ladies would sometimes divert themselves by going a little aside with our gentlemen, a$ if they meant to be kind, and then would in a mo- Iment run awiiy laugliing at them. On the 13th of September, at sun-rise, we weighed, nd stood off for the channel we came in by. At half Isast seven we were in the middle of it^ when the isle y Balabea bore W; N. W. At noon we lost sight of iBalabea, and at three o'clock, we run by a low sandy lisic. At sun-set, we could just see the land, which bore |S, W. by S. aboat ten leagues dis^nt. No land was ^0 be seen in this direction ; so that every appearance attered our expectations, and induced us to believe, [that we should soon get round the shoals. On the 15th, seeing neither land nor breakers, we 3Fe away W. N. W. but the shoals still continuing, K plied^p for a clear sea to the S. E. by doing which, wdjd but just weather the point of the reef we had bused the preceding evening. To render our situation Ihemore dangerous, the wind began to fail us; in the Uicrnoon it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy y a great swell, setting directly for the reef, which vasnomore than a league from us. The pinnace aad [utter were hoisted out to tow the ship, but they were Mlittle service. At seven o'clock, a light air N. N. E, |ept her head to the sea ; and on the 16th, at eleven I'ciock A. M. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail the S. E. A tide or current had been in our favour |ll night, aiiu was the cause of our getting so unex- Jectedly clear of the slioals. On the 20th at noon, Cape Colnet bore N. 78 deg, distant six league^;. From hence the land extended round 264 CAPTAIN cook's round by the S. to E. S. E. till it was lost in the horiJ zon, and the country appeared variegated with many hills and vallies. We stood in shore till sun-s:;t, whenl we were about three leagues off. Two small islets lay distant from us five miles, and others lay between u$ arid the shore. The country was very mountainous! and had much the same aspect as about Balabea. On Friday the 30th, at three o'clock P. M. it fc||| calm, the swell, assisted by the current, set us fasfl towards the breakers, which were yet in sight to thj S. W. but at ten o'clock a breeze springing up, wel steered E. S. E. not venturing farther south till daJ light. I On the 1st of October, we had a very strong wjndl ' at S. S. W. attended by a great sea, so that we had reaJ ion to rejoice at having got clear of the shoals beforcf this gale overtook us. We were now obliged to stretdil to S. E. and at rioon were out of sight of land. On the 2d, we bad little wind, and a great swell; but at eleven, afresh breeze springing up, we stood tol the S. We were nov<^ in the lat. of 23 deg. 18 rainj and in 169 deg. 49 min. E. lon^^itude. On th6 3d, we had a strong gale, with squalls fromj the S. W. and the captain laid aside all thoughts of returning to the land we had left. Nor could such ail attempt be thought a prudent one, when we considcrj that we had a vast ocean yet to explore to the south; that the ship was already in want of necessary stores that summer was approaching very fast, and thatan|| considerable accident mighi detain us from pursuing the great object of this voyage another year. Thus nf cossity compelled us to leave a«coasr, for the 6rst time] which we had first discoverd, but not fully expIoredJ The captain named it New Caledonia, and in hisopij riion, it is, next to New Zealand, the largest iskndiif the South Pacific Ocean. The extent is from h^ l(| ^eg^. 87 min. to 22 deg. 30 min. S. and from lon^,. 16j| deg. 37 min. to 167 6cg. 14 min. E. It lies nearly Nj W. half W. and S. E, half E. and is about 87 leagufl SECCVD VOYAGE. 265 jon^, but its breadth dos^^ not any where exceed ten lleagocs. On the 7th, a breeze sprung up, and fixed at S. E. |by S. The day following, we had a gentle gai<*, at* Itended with fine weather. On the 9th, we were in Ijat. 28 deg. 25 min. and in 170 deg. 26 min. £. long. Ilnthe evening Mr. Cooper struck a porpoise. It was jtix feet long, and differs from the common porpoise in Itbe head and jaw, which are long and pointed. This liad eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. It was first soaked lin wiiter, the^ roasted, broiled and fried. To us, who id long subsisted on salt meat, it was more than pala- Bblej and We thought the haslet, and lean flesh, a jeltcioos feast.' On the lOth^ we discovered land. Captain Cook called it Norfolk Island. We anchored here in twenty- [wd fathoms water, oti a bank of coral sand, mixed i/ith broken shells. After dinner, a party of us, em- avlced in the boats/ and landed in the island behind otne large rocks. It was uninhabited, and we ^^g ndoubtedly' the first wlio ever set foot upon iu W,t Ibund here mAiiy sea and land fowl, of the same kiqd Is in New Zealand; likewise cabbage-palm, wood )rrel, sow-thiisile, and samphire. The cabbage trees irere not thioker than a man'si ieg, i and' from ten to Iwenty feet high. The cabbage, each tree producing lot cne,^is at the top inclosed in the stem. This ve-* Ktable is not orly wfholesome, but exceeding palata- jile, and some excellent fish we caught made a lux- ious entertainment* On the i 1th, we sailed from Norfolk Island, which ye weathered, having stretched up to S. S. W. "We und the coast bounded with rocky cliffs and banks V ''HT^X sand. On the the south side lie two isles, rh'.ih serve as roosting and breeding places, fpr white sbif^s, gulls, tern, &c. A bank of coral sand and iielis, surrounds the isle, and extends, espftcially south- ifard, seven leagues off. Our intention tit this time if^s to refresh the crew, and repair the ship in Queen i'Harlotte's Sound., T. ! - Dm Jl ir^rM'^'Ji: j:' see CAPTAIN COOK S On the isthr we made a trip to the north, and bore away for the Sound. We haulc round Point Jackson, at nihd A. M. and i^t eleven o'clock anchored before Ship CovCi the tide not permitting us to ^et in. Cap. tain Goolc wenii ashore, and boked for the bottle witii the memorandum whidi he telt when last here, bntit was taken away by some person or other. The lein^ was hauled twice, and only four fish eaught ; but seve. ral birds were ;hot, and the ne&Cs of some ahags ivei^ robbed of their y6ung ones. ; On the V9lh, the ship was warped intDrthecove,ani moored. The sails were unbent, several of them havl^ beeii much damaged in the late gale. The main anj fore courses were condemned, and the topmasts struckl and dnrlg^ed* The forge was set up, and tents erected on shore for the reception of a guard, &c. Plentyo! ^eofetwbles were gathered for the refreshment of t crew, and borkd every niornihg with cmt^eai and] porfabJc broth for b#ealcfjrft. From sonae circum-j staniies, as cuJtibg down trees with saws and axejj M^A a p)ace found where an observatory had been m itp\i\ (jurabs^dce, we had ob doubt but the Adventurel fra^ been in this c*5ve since we left it.; '^^'•Oii the- 2:4tbj we sa\ir canoes comiia|g down tlic| ' ibi>nd, which, whenthe ship was seen, by the people, Ij^fired behind a pselves b) hallooing to us in Shag Cove; but when wc landeiJi and drew near to their habitations, they aM fled, excepi two or t^iree men, who maintamed their giroand, wiii their weapons in their hands. The moment wtlaml they kite wU<, and their fears subsided. Those w had returned from the woods, embraced us over am over again ; but tlie mca would not suffer some w men we saw at a distance to come near us. We aski them on what? account thev were afraid of us ? am also what was become of our old fncnd-ji' To th questions w« got no satisfactory answer; but th taikeil SECOND VOYAGE. 261 talked muth about kihing, which was variously un- Idersftood by us. On the 28th, sonw of the natives went to the tents, land told our people, that a ship like ours had lately Ibeen lost, that soine of the men landed at Vanna Aroa, U the other side of the strait ; thata dispute happened [between them ahd the natives ; that several of the liter were shot, and that the natives got the better of . •m when they could fire no longer, and both killed and ate them. 0.ne of the relaters of this strange story, iid it was twenty or thirty days -, but another said it IS two nioons since. The following day they told the same story to others, rhicb made the captain, and indeed all of us, vi^ry incasy about the Adventure; but when the captain nquired himself, and endeavoured to come at the th of these reports, the very people who raised them, llenicd every syllable of what they had s'iid,_and eemed wholly ignorafit of the matter; so that we egan to think the whole relation had reference only )rheir own people and boats. On the 98th, We again went on shore, but fpund lio appearance of the hogs and sows we had left be- jiind. Having been a shooting to the west bay, in our eturn we got some fish from the natives for a few Rifling presents* As we came back some of the party hought they heard a pig squeak in the woods. We liot this day a good many wild fowl and small birds. )n the 31st, it was somewhat remarkable that all the itivesleft us. On the 1st of November, we were visited by a num- er of strangers, who came from up the Sound. The |rincipal articles of trade they brought with them was ^een stone, some of which were the largest pieces we [adever seen. On the 2d, a large black sow was seen the botanising party, which we discovered to be the be that Captain Furneaux left behind him. Suppos- fijit to be a boar, we carried over to Long Island a sow, Jt seeing our mistake, we brought her back. This |lcident afforded us some hope*, tlial this island in Urrm LI 12 ^^: will Mr (• ' '1 208 .CAPTAI17 CbOKS will be stccked wirhsuch useful animiils. Lieut FidiJ ers|;ill ivas told the same story by one of the native of a ship, having been lost, but the man declared thougjj many were killed, itwas not by them.' 1 ^, On the 6th, our friends returned, and took up theij abode near the tents. An old man, named Peder made Captain Cook a present of a stafTof honour, suclj as the chiefs carry ; and in return, the captain dress him up in a suit of old clothes, which made him ven happy. He had a fine person, and his colour onl] distinguished him from an European. We enquiredc hitfi and his companions, if the Adventure had bee there during our absence ; and theyg^ve us tounde stand that she arrived a little time after our departure] that she staid about twenty days, and had been go ten moons ; and that neither she, nor any other had been stranded on the coast. This account ma us f*asy respecting the Adventure. This day we went with a number of bands to catd fhe sow, and put her to the boar, but returned witho seeing her. Pedero Jined with us, partook heartily i every thing set before him, and drank more wine thi any one at table, without being in the least intoxicatn On the 8th, yre put a boar, a sow and two pigs on shon so that we hope all our endeavours to stock this ccuii try will not prove fruitless. We found a hen's eggj few days ago, and therefore believe that some of th cocks and hens we left here are still in being. . On the 9th, we unmpored, and shifted our statio farther out of the cove, for the more ready getting I sea i but at present, the caulkers had not iinished sides uf the ship ^ and we could not sail till thiswoil was completed. Our friends brought us a large supp| of fish, fi|[fd in return, gave Pedero a large empty jar, with which hespemed highly delighted. AVencvd (WW any of o\ir presents after they received them, air pannot say whether they gave them away, or wh they did with them ; but we observed every time visited thein, they were as much in wont of hatchd " ' ■ nail SECOND VOYAGE. 269 nails, &c. as if we had not bestowed any upon them. , i^otwiihstanding these people are cannibals, they are of a good disposition, and have not a little humanity. The head of each tribe, or family is respected; rc- jspectmay command obedience; but wre are inclined to think, not one among them has either a right or power to enforce it. Ib the afternoon we went into one of the coves ; I where, upon landing, we found two families employed I in different manners ; some were making mats, others [Sleeping; some roasting fish an n roots: and one girl Was employed in heating stone , which she took out of the fire as soon as t!iey were hot, and gave them to ahold woman who sat in the hut. The old woman placed them upon one another, laid them over some green celery, and over all a coarse mat : she then squat- ted herself down on the top of the heap, and sat very close. Probably this operation might be intended as awure for some disorder, to be effected by the steams [arising from the green celery, and we perceived the woman seemed very sickly. CHAP. VIII. Tlie departure of the Resolution from New Zealand — Her passage front thence to 7 err a del Fuego—'The rim from Cape Deseada to Christmas Sound — The Resolution departs from Christmas Sound — Doubles Cape Horn — Her passage through Strait Le Maire, and round Stolen Island — Departs from Stateii Island — The island of Georgia discovered, and a descriptive account of the same, THURSDAY, November 10, at day-br.'ak, we weighed, and sailed from Queen Charlotte*s Sound I in New Zealand, having a fine breeze at N. N. W. All I our sails being set, we got round the Two Brothers, and [stretched for Cape Campbell, at the S. W. entrance of the Strait. We passed this at four o'clock P. M. Cape Palliser . 4 270 CAPTAIN cook's Palliser bore N. half W, distant five leagues, and then! steered S. S. £. half £. On the 13 th, we hauled up towards a fog bank! which we took for land ; after which we steered S. EJ by S. and saw a seal. On the 14th, w« saw another! seal.'in lat. 45 deg. 54 min. and 170 deg. 29 mio. ^1 longitude. On the 1 5th, having passed the great tneJ ridinn of 1 SO deg. E. which divides the globe into twol equal parts, we began to reckon our longitude W. off Greenwich. On the 27th, we steered E. having a steady fnthl gale ; and at noon were in lat. 35 deg. 6 min. S. «ikl[ in 1S8 deg. .56 min. W. longitude. In this psririldj not a hope remained of finding any more land in the! . southern Pacific Ocean. We resolved therefore tol steer for the W. entrance of the Straits of Ma8;ellaD,| with a view of coasting the S. side of Terra del FuegoJ round Cape Horn to the Strait ie Maire. In thel afternoon, we had squally weather,>which carried a\vayl our top-gallant mast. On the 1st of December, it fell a calmj but aboutl seven, we got a wind at S. E. which stood to N. E. On the oth, a fine gale at S. enabled us to steer £.1 with very little deviation to the N. and the wind now! altering to the S. W. and blowing a steady gale, wcl continued to steer E. inclining a little to S. On thel 6th, we had some snow showers ; and on the 9th, a| fine pleasant gale, with showers of rain. On the 18th, we steered S. E. by E. along the coast.! Near a league from the main is a high ragged isjej which we called Landfall; We continued to rangel the coast, and at eleven o^clock, passed a projecting! point, having a round surface, and of considerable height, to which wc gave .the name of Cape Glouccs-] ter. - It has the appearance of an island, and is situ- ated S. S. E. half E. seventeen leagues from the isle ofl Landfall. Between these the coast forms two bays,! strewed with rocky islets, rocks, and breakers. The coast appeared unconnected, as if formed of a nuir/ocr of islands. The land is very mountainous, rocky, an(l| barren, SECOND VOYAGE. 271 ED, but in some places, covered with tufts of wood jd patches of snow. i 0» the 20tb we p«rceivc»l ihe ship todriveofTthe }re out to ^a -, for by the nieltlfig ot the snow, Itbe inland waters will occasion a ttream to run out of jgtof the inlets. In the evening, a breeze ipringing lip at E. by S. we ^tix)d in for the land, being desirous of entering one of tht many ports, in order to tak« a I'lew of the country, and to recruit our stock of wood od water. In standini^ in for an opening, apparently ^a the ea^t siide, we sounded in 4c> and 60 fathoms.^* )ur last soundings were nearl v bt;tween the two points ||)9t form, the entrance to the inlet. We stood for that the e^st, as being clear of islets ; but, upon sounding tin4np bottom with a line of 120 fathoms. In this {iisagreeable situation, a breeze springing up, our cap- . I resolved 19 stand up the inlet ; but night approach- log, oar $Mfc;tK d^pcf'ded on casting anchor, therefore itinued sounding, but always, to our mortification, an unfathomable depth : soon after we anchored in liirty fathoms, m a bottom of sand and broken shellg. . I Qn the 22d, two parties were sent out with boats to )ok fpr & more secure station* They found a cove above he point under which the ship lay, in which was ex- ling go^ 2^i?clK>rage. At the head of it was a stony each, a valley covered with wood, and a stream of Esh water, cpnveniencies more favourable than we odd e?;pect would be found in such a place. Here liso ,th^ shot three geese out of four. Orders were jjspatcbed to .reniove the ship into this place. We etq^ned -on: board,i and found every thing in readijicss weigh, which was done. We soon after got round, jnd anchored in twenty fathoms water. On the 23d, lieutenant Pickersgill went out to ex- Qiine the east side of the sound, while the captain foceeded in the pinnace to the west side, with a Lwof goin^ round the islaiid under which the ship |iy, which lie Ci^iled Shag Island. Tlus harbour lies W. by S. ;; iiiiic and a half, h hath wood iind fresh water. i.ii i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /> & /./ -* v*^ ^/ < ^1^ %* 1.0 1.1 1^128 |25 H^ L£ 12.0 % V, w fi: 6 ^^ .1 '^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAiN STRUT WZBSTIR.N.Y. MSSO f?1f ) (72-4503 '^ 5^ o^ 272 CAPTAIN COOKS water, and from twelve to twenty-four fathdins deep At the south end of Shag Island, the shags breed in vast numbers in the cliffs of the rock. We »hci; some of the old ones, but could not come at theyoung oneil which are by much the best eatii^g. Wd likewisel brought down three wild geese, a valuable itcquisitiool at this time. ' -•'^ I On the 24th, two sportitig parties went over one the N. E. islands above-mentioned, which Wks hamedl Goose Island ; and the other, accompanied by GepraiJ Cook, went by the S. W. side. Whert under the islaod we had plenty of sport, having shot ai tdatty geese ail served for a ChristmaS'-meal for our nfjfdn, whith proJ ed much itiore agreeable to them than salt beef an . pork. In the south of the isliind Wett iif^idkncf i geese, it being their moulting seasdn^'i^heiimbit then! come on shore, aiid are not dispoiidij'td'fly. 0„ party got sixty-two, and Mr. Pickersgill v(Fil)i^hi»partrj fourteen,'" ■ ' • • ■ ■ - -'"^ ;• ' - -i; '•■•:^v.,-. i--.*.^ We wisre informed by pur peopl<^ 6H'b^rd^tfisti number of natives, in nine canoes; libcl'b(serf k side, and 86me of them in the ship : they seiemeid wdll acqu^ifiited with Europeans, and had ieveVal of th^iif knives among them. ' \^Mf"^ . On the 25th, being Christmasrday^' welfad iinotlH visit from them. They are a diminuttv^V'Ugly, hal( starved, beardless race ; alniost nak^, b^lng onlil slightly covered with a seal-skin^ or iWo'lointa to ther;\soas to make a cloke which r^acheii to thei^ knees ; but the greatest part of themhfad but one skin Vf^hidh scarcely covered their shouldersj ^ind all fheij lower parts were quite naked. The womeit -iire-etoHin no better than the men, except that ' they CJd^ier theij nakedness with a seal-skin flap. Tbe^ ixt inure from their infancy to cold andhardships, for jwe sa« some young children ' at the breast^ entirely nab' They remained all the time hi their canoes, haviDjj their bows and arrows with them, and harpoons, mad of bone, with which they strike and kill fish. The * They all d< lioy one invii [cheer, whicti Igoose pie, &c jvai heighten! lour provisions itbis place^Ciii^ Itbejo/fu] fesfi On the 27tl Iboird. The ^ |of us virent roi nd picked up eturned on h{ launch In, find to put to On the 28th ezcatN.-'V 8t part of rii lie and ah ire haule idenfonso. Ai Sht dCthe isle the main, fee. 41 min. "^ Onthe30thi iLand; but |to9d over for nd firing two woo£, mad fthe bay. A der to diKpvc )be seen ther Dod any. When Mr. nandhisasso thed in seal-s n^eared to be t ^mmas Sounc wrought 8 ^^ubt,thew SECOND VOYAGE. ^' They all departed before dinner, nor did we Relieve Uy one invited them to partake of our Christroat fcbeer, which consisted. of geese, roast and boiled, goose pie* &c. a treat-little known to us ; and which was heightened«rf^Madeira wine, the only article of lour proVisjons^ljK^ai mended by ke^pipg. We called lihis place jClif^|fi^:Sound,jn honour of the day, and. Itbejoyfulfestival^e had celebrated he/e* I On the 27th, evey thing on shore witt ordered 911 Iboird. The weather beilig fine and p]easant> a partjr f us went round by the south side of Goose Island, nd picked up , thirty-one of these birds. When we eturned on b^Murd, we found all the work done, and launch in, so that we now only waited for a fair rind to put to sea. On the 28th, we sailed firom this sound with a light eeze at N. W. At.nqoii, Boint Nativity being the St part of ttie Sounds bibre N. half W. distant one igue and a half. We steer^id S. £. by £. and £^ S. E. ibep ire hauled to the S. for the sake of a view of St. Idenfonso. At halfpast five o'clock, we had a good {ht of the isles. They are situated about six leagues DA the main, in lat. 55 deg. 53 miri. S. apd in 69 r.il min. W. iong. L)nthe SOthi we were driven by the current toiSta« Land; but a breeze springing up>t N. N. W. we |to9d over for Success Bay. IV^e, hoisted our colours, nd firing two guns, we perceived a smoke rise out of woo£, made by the natives about the south point fthe bay. A party was se^t • into Success Bay, in jer to diKpver if any traces <^ the ^Adventure were be seen there; but they returned without having nod any. I When Mr. Pickersgill landed, the, natives received lin and his associates with great courtesy. They wera "Isthed in seal-skins, had bracelets on their arms, and ppeared to be the same kind of people we had seen in Inimas Sound. Thebraceletswereroadeiof silver (» wrought soniewhat like the hilt of a swordj and, ^bt, the workmanship cf an European. Accord- 1^ Mm. ing ■■^^- ^^ m cAPtAiii cook's iHj^ to Mr. Pickersgiirs account, the bay #ks full of t^hklt^ and seals, ahd We had observed the same in the strait, particularly on the Terra del Ftiego irde, whete t!id Wliales are ext^edrn^ numerous. On the 31st, we bore tip for the east fend Of Statcn Land, 'the tweather being hazy, We could otily notj and then get sight of the cDast ; but as we advanced to the east, several islands ^et% seen of unc'qual t^ttnu Ai we cohtifttied our course, we sav on on^ of the I'slands a great tiumber of seals and b rd^, a stroni tetnptatidn to our people, who ^erie in Want of fresh provisions; and in hauling rbutiii it We had a strong nice df a current, like unbroken i^kter. At letigth, af^er fish. ihg for the best ground. We cast anchor in tWbnty-oM fathoms water, about a mile from the island. In the afterndoii a large party of tks landed, ^bmb tol kill seats, and others birds or fish. The isHmd wasMJ stocked with the former, Which made sdch a cOhtrniil|| bleating, that We mij^Kt have thought Ourselves in hi mXi or infany other cotintry whef e coWs arid calves m ih abundance. Upon iexamination, Wc fcnind thirse aitiil AialS different from seal)9, though they te^emblfed thett| ih «htipe and motion. The male hlaving ^ great lit ness to a lion, we called them on that actouht lie We aho found of the •rame kind ks \ht New 2eah fcals, tind these we nattiedsea bears. Wfe shot some oftli krgc one^, not thinking itsafe to go near thfeiti ;thoi] in general ihcy Were so tiatne, that v/t ktibcked so down with our sticks. Here Were a feM^ geese an ducks, and abun^lahce ofpfenguinsiaht! shags ; the latt^ of which had youi>g ones, almost flfedged, conseque just to ourta'ste. In the evening, our parry retur sufficiently laden with provisions of various ^sorts. On the 1st of Jannlaiy, 1775, Mr. Gilbert wasi otit to Staton Land in "search of a good hairbour, Aothi xtiofe beitrg wanting, in the 'ofHtiioh of the cdpt)iiii,1 make thh phice a ^ood port f«r i/hips to touch at fori freshmetiis. AifiOfher party Went to brh^g oh bditfll beasts we had killed the ^rededing day. The otd Kt and bears Were good for notihtflj^init tbdt bhiblieiril t ncq^D YPYAop. 375 lyhich wc made oil ; but the: flfsh of the yoqng on^ Las i keid very well ; even the fle$h of the old lioness^ Las not rpucb ^;miss ^ but th^t of the old male^ yyj|s ThU Hiiy Captain Cook tpok an observation of the l^n's qieriditin altitude (hi; height at noon) at the >}. £. end of this island, which determined its latitude ^t 44 Ueg- 4Q min* 5 sec. S. Hayip^ shot slUw ^e^s^, some Lber i^ird^y and supplied ourselves plentifully Virit|i lyoung shqg9, we returned on board in the evening. \/^bput tep, the party returned from Statin Lan^t wheft they found a good port, in the^ireptiop qf N. a little easterly, from the N. £. end of the eastern islan^, d distant three leagues to the westward of Cape §t. iphi). TT)? marks whereby it may be known a^e son)e i^li islands lyipg in the entrance. The channel which on the east siiie of these islands, i& half a ipilc; broad. . c course is in S. W. by S. turning gradually to W. ly S. and W. The harbour is almost t\yo miles l^ng, id near one broad. The bottom is a mixture of mud 4 s. nd, and hath in it from ten to fifteen faithom^ ter. Here are sevjpral streams of fresh water, with ood woQ(^ ^r fuel. On this island are an innumerable number of sea- ills, the air was quite darkened with them, \|p<^,n b^- ig disturbed by our people : and when they rose up, e were alpiost suffocated \yith their d\in^, which jth^y ciped to enni^ by way of defence ; and it stf^n^ orse than what is vulgarly called devil's dung. On the 3d, we weighed, and stood for Cape St. Jobp, l^ch in the evening bore I^. by E. distant fpijr Vi\\f^% his point being the eastern point of Staten Land, i$ rock of considerable height, situated in lat. 5$ deg. min.S. and in 64 deg. 7 min. W. long, having ft ky is)et lying close under ^he N. point of it. To \hf westward of the cape is an inlet, which seemed to pp^r ijiinica^te with the ssea %o thjs south ; and between this [Od the cape is ^ bay. Having doubled the cape, wf Ijiled up alo,ng the sou^ cqast. At noon Cape St. Jciii N. 294eif. £. <^istant at^put th.re.9 le^a^ues ; Cap^ M m 2 St. Bar- 076 CAPTAIN cook's St. Bartholomew, or the S. W. point of Staten Land S. 83 deg. W. two high detached rocks N.SOdeg.W.J By observation our lat. was found to be 54 deg. 55 1 nin. S. We now judged this land to have been nfi\ ciently explored ; but before we leave it, think it| necessary to make a few observations on this and iti neighbouring islands. The S. W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with respect to inlets and islands, may be compared to the coast 1 Norway ; for we believe within the extent of tbr leagues there is an inlet or harbour, which will receii and shelter the first rate ships : but till these are bett known, every navigator must fish for anchorage : add| to this, there are several rocks on the coast ; though i none lie far from land, the approach of them may [ known by sounding, if they cannot be seen ; so \l upon the whole, we cannot think this the dangero coast it has been represented by other voyagers. $t9ten Land is thirty miles in length, and ne twelve broad. Its surface consists of craggy hill towering up to i( vastheight, especially near the we (end, and the coast is rocky. The greatest part of hills, their summits excepted, is covered with tre shrubs, and herbage. We cannot say any thing, thi navigators may depend on, concerning the tides currents on these coasts; but we observed that Strait Le Maire, the southerly tide, or current, begio to act at the new and full moon about four o'clock. ' may also be of use to commanders to remark, thati bound round Cape (lorn to the W. and not in wanKJ anything to oblige them to put into port, we wook adyise them not to conne near land ; as by keeping to sea, they would avoid the currents, which, we convinced, lose their force twelve leagues from land] and at a greater distance they would find none to pede thiiir po^rse. All the anipials of this island live in perfect harmoojj and seem careful not to disturb each other's tranquilli^ The sea-lions possess most of the coast ; the bears jip their quarters within the jsle ; the shags lodge ioi ; higl SECOND VOTAGB. 277 highest cliflPs ; the penguins have their separate abode jwhere there is the most easy communication to and ffom the sea ; and the other birds have their places of letirement ; yet we have observed them all» with mu- tnai reconcilement, mix together, like domestic <:attle poultrv in a farm yard: nay, we have seen the eagles ana vultures sitting together among the shags» on their hillocks, without the latter, either young or I, being disturbed at their presence We left Staten Island on the 3d, and this day bein^ 4th, we saw the land again ; and at six o'clock in Itbe afternoon, a heavy squall came so suddenly upon I, that it carried away a top-gallant-mast, a studdmg- II, boom, and a fore studding-sail. This ended in i^ ivy shower of rain ; we now steered S. W. in order to discover the Gulf of Sebastian, if such a coast ex- d, in which*the gulf has been represented, for of this entertaified a doubt : however, this appeared to be le best course to clear it up, and to explore the ithern part of this ocean. On the 6th, we were in lat. 58 deg. 9 min. S. and Sdeg. 14 min. W. the situation nearly assigned for S. W. point of the Gulf of St. Sebastian; but seeing signs of land, were still doubtful of its existence ; being also fearful, that by keeping to the S. might iiss the land said to be discovered by La Roche in 675, and by the ship Lion, in 1756 ; for these reasons, hauled tojtheN.in order to get into the parallel laid iwn by Dalrymple, as soon as possible. On the 7th, were near midnight in the lat. of 56 deg. 4. min. S. Dg. 53 deg. 36 min. W. On the 13th, we stood to the S. till noon, when iding ourselves in lat. 55 deg. 7 min. we stretched the N. We saw several penguins, and a snow petrel, ^lich we judged to denote the vicinity of ice. We ndalso the air much colder than we had felt it since left New Zealand. On the 24th, wc discovered in a manner wholly covered with snew. We ndedin 175 fathoms, muddy bottom. On the ISth, wind blew in squalls^ attended with snow and I sleet. 978 CAPTAIN COOK 9 ^31 iieet, and we had a great sea to encounter. J^\ f(,yJ we $tood to the S. W. under two courses ; but i)t midJ night the slortn abated, so that vve could carry o;i tppaails xloubie reefed. On the 17th, at four o'clock A. M. wc stood tothi E. ^ ith a moderate breeze, and at eight saw the Ian extending from E. by N. to N. £. by N. |t proved i \fe an island, and we called it Willis's inland, from \\\ name of the person who first discovered it from i^ mact-head. We bore to it with a view of explorin Ihe northern coast ; aad as we advanced, we peicfiy^ Another isle to the north, between that and the mai) Observing a clear passage between both, we stpere |br the same, and in the midway found it to be tiri| . miles broad. WilJi&'s Isl^ is in the lat. qf 9i dpg.l •nd S8 deg. 23 min. W. Jong. On the 17tb, having got through the passage, !observe4the N. coast trended £. by N. for about thr UlAgy^es. We ranged the coast till ne^j* night, at league distance, when, on sounding, we found fathoms, and a muddy bottom. On the 17^, weip^d ior vagfi rocks raised their lofty sunomi^t^ till l0St| ikis clouds., and vall|es were covered wixh seem)o| perpetuaj snow. Not. a tree, mi^ ^ shr.g^b of an; $i| maod to be seen. 7 he only si^n3 of vegetation m a strong bladed grass, grOwJng in ^vifts^ wild bm^ and a plant like moss seen on the rocJc3. 3c:a ^eai^j fcaUrWerp numerous ; the shores swamried yvithyf cubs. Hctfi were also the iar^gest penguins yte SECOND VOYACE. 47f I^H. Some we brought aboard weighed thirty jnds. When the party returned aboard, they brought ith them a quantity of seals and penguins ; not that trarited provisions, but any kino of fresh meat was eptable to the crew ; and even Captain Cook ^oowledged, that he was now, for the first time, irtlly tim of salt diet of every kind; and that Sh the Hesh of penguins could scarcely be com- to bullocks liver, yet its being fresh was sufficient i^ake it palatable. The captain nimed the bay he eyed. Possession Bay ; though according to his cotttit of It, we think It to be no appendage to his ijesty's new possessions. In the I8tn, we n^ade sail to the east, along the 8t; the direction of which Jrom Cape Buller, is 73 5. 80 min. E. for the space of twelve leagues, to a (jccting point, which Was named Cape Saunders.— fotrd this is a pretty large bay, which obtained the of Cumberland Bay. At the bottom of this, I also in some smaller ones, were vast tracts of frozen or snow, not yet broken loose. Being now just past omberland Bay, we hauled off the coa^t, from bhence we were distant four miles. On the 20th, we made sail to the S. W. roun 9per*s island, which is one rock, considerably high, 9ut five miles in circuit, and one distant from the lin. Here the main coast takes a S. W. directioni iivf leagues, to a point which we called CapeDis- )intment, off which are three small isles. The most utbern one is a league from the cape, green, low, flat. We now quitted this coast, and directed our arse to the S. S. £. for the land we had seen the pre ling day. A strong gale overtook us, and we thought :lvrs very fortunate in having got clear of the land ffore this came on. {On the 21st, the storm was succeeded by a thick I, attended with rain ; but having got a southerly eeze, we stood to the east till three in the afternoon ; Itben steered north in search of the land. On the 22d^ mm 280 CAPTAIN COOK S 22d, we had thick foggy weather ; but in the eveninffl it was so clear that we could see two leagues round ui I and thinking we might be to the east of the land, we| steered west. On the 23d, a thick fog at six o'clock, once moitj compelled us to haul the wind to the south; but i eleven we were favoured with a view of three or fo_ rocky islets, extending from S. E. to £. N. E. aboQ one league distant; and this being the extent of horizon, might be the reason we did not see the Sugai] loaf. We were well assured; that was the land wehal seen before, and which we had now circumnavigatedl consisting of only a few detached rocks, the recepti cles for birds» They are situated in latitude S5 deg.! This interval of clear weather was succeeded byi thick a fog as ever, cii which we stood to the ntrtl Thus we were continually involved in thick mists, an^ the shags, with frequent soundings, were our pilots ; but on the 23d, we stood a few miles to north, when we got clear of the rocks, out of sound ings^ and saw not 3ny shags. tKCOH» y&YA^t. 9BI (I i-' CMaIP. IX. \tk Sesolution cantiniies her €0urse^ Niwiand &Hd Saunders Isles discovered^^Coiv^etures, ond some reasons that there may be land about the south pole ^Tlte Sesolution alters her course to the east — Pro- teedmgs till her arrival at the Cape of Good Hope^^ italsjor the Isle of J^ayuit ^ttd retume to England -^Captain fumeaux^s Narrative, from the time the Mventure was separated ffom the Resokitiont to her arrival 11^ ^nglandy including the report ^f JUeute^ umt Bunn^ concerning the uHtim^l}; death of the hat*s erew% who were murdered bjf sosh^ qfthe natives qf^een Charlotte* s Sound, ^N the 25tb, we steered £. 1 £. We hkl e fresh ^ gale at l4. N, £. but tbe weirther still continiied oggy, till towards the eveninf , at whitbeyna[iost land we bad seeij the preceding davn which, at this tin^e, bore£.S. By ten o'clock, we fetched in with it» but not havin|| it in our power ta weather the same, we tacked at three miles from the cqast. This extended fix)iB f by S: taS. £. ai^l appeared to be an islaad of aboi tea leagues circuit. The suj^ce was hiph, ard' ^o^ipit lost in tj^e qJpu^ Like all tbe neighbourii land^, it was covei^td with a sheet of snow and k except on a poiqion the. north side, and on two hi] seen over it, which probably, were two islands^ The were not only clear of snow, but seeaned covered w^ green: turf. We sa,w also, large ice-islandis to the sovtb, a^d others to the N. E* At noon w« tacked fori 1304 ag;ain, in order i^ possible to determine whetl it was an island- 1^ but a thick fog soon prevented tl disjQOVcry, by poking it unsafe to stand tor the shore so^ th^t having retUfoed«^ w^C tacked-and stood taN J t<| make, the land we ha4 seen ii|, the morning. Wi iMt the o;her under the supposition of its beln^ ifjaad, and named U SMVidcrs,' Isle, after Capt. Cc ^QnoMf.^le frjencf^it Charles. Saunders^ It liesio tude $7 deg. 4^ min. Si, and in 26 deg. 44 min. W| Ipqg. dj^t.an^ thf^eeii leHi^* froo^CJape! Mootaj The wif^4 having shiite4 at, six o'clock, ^^ <^< thf^tvof^i; aB4 at eight we. saw ^annders,' Island, c V ' tendii 8BCOND VOYAOK^ 2S5 icodiog ftoBi S. £ by S. to £. S. E, We wer« still in . ^oabt if 1^ ^'v^rc an island, and could not at this tinoe ' clear it upt ^ wc found it necossaf y to take a view of Ag land to tbe north, before we proceeded any further iDtbc east. With this intent we stood to the north* 0id on the 3d, at two o'clock A. M. we came in sight gftheland we were $earching after, which proved to be it«o isles. On account of the day on which they were . Covered, we called them Candlemas Isles. They lie liiriat ^7 <2cg« ^ ^ xnin. S. and tn 'XI deg. 6 min. \V. ^itude. Between these we observed a small rock : Itbierf may perhaps be others; for the weatl>er being tj occasioned us to lose sight of the islands, and we i not see them again till noon, at which time they ere three or four leagues off. We now stood to the S\£. and at midnight came suddenly into water un- mpnly white, at which appearance the officer on cb was so much alarmed, that he immediately ered the ship to be put about, and we accordingly ed instantly: There were various opinions aboard ning this matter ; probably it might be a shoal ■^\ but seme said it was a shoal of ice ; and others iCMigbt it was shallow water. On Sunday the 4th, at noon, by observation, we ourselves in latitude 56 deg. 43 min. S. and in Dgitude 25 deg. 33 min« Wo We now^, having « eze at breatt, stood to the south, intending toregain coast we had lost ; but the wind at eight o'clock in erening, obliged us to stand to the east, in which we saw many ice-islands and some loose ice. As ic formation of ice-islands hati not been fully tnvesti- ;d, we will here 4)£fer a few hints and observations ting them. e do not thinh, ai some others do, that they are irmed by the water at the mouths of great cataracts large rivers, which when accumulated^ break o^, wing to their ponderous weight; because we never hd any of the ice which we took op, in the least in- rporated, or. connected with earth, which must ccssarilyadheretoit, were this.con}ecture true. Fur- thermore, 4 286 CAVTAIK cook's thermore, we are not certain whether there are anf rivers in these countries, a" we saw neither rivers nor streams of fresh water there. The ice*islands, at least in these parts, must be formed from snow and sleet consolidated, which gather by degrees, and are drifted from the mountains. In winter, the seas or ice-c|jfs must fill up the bays, *f they are ever so large. Tb; continual fall of snow occasions the accumulation of these cliffs, till they can support their weight no longer, and large pieces break on from these ice-islands. We are inclined to believe, that these ice-cliffs, where they are s'.eltered from they violence of the winds, extend a great way into the sea. On the 5th, having seen no penguins, we thought ' that we were leaving land behind us, and that we had passed its northern extremity. On the 6th, we held on our course till the 7th at noon, when we found our lati- tude to be 58 deg. 15 min. S. and long. 21 deg. 34 min. W. and not seeing any signs of land, we conrluded; that what had been denominated Sundwich Land, was either a group of islands, or on a point of the continent,] for in Captain Cook's opinion, the ice that is spread over this vast southern ocean, must originate in a track of land, which he firmly believes lies near the pole, and extends farthest to the north, opposite totheJ Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans ; for ice beingj found in these farther to the north, than any whei else„ induced the captain Xq conclude, that land ol considerable extent must exist rear the south. U a contrary supposition it will follow, that we ougl to see ice every where under the same parallel ; W few ships have met with ice going round Cape Horn,*! and for our part, we saw but little below the sixtiel degree of latitude in the Southern Pacific Ocean ; on the other hand, in this sea, between the meridian 40 deg. V^. and fifty or sixty d<^grees east, wc foundj Ice as far north as 5 1 deg. Others have seen it in i much lower latitude. Let us now suppose there is a| Southern Continent within the polar circle, question which readily occurs, will be. What end canl be answered in discovering or exploring such a coast | Orl SECOND VOYAGE. 287 Orwbat use can the same be of, either to navigation, j geography, or any other science ? And what beneBti Icift result therefrom to a commercial state? Consider [for a moment, what thick fogs,' snow, storms, intense cold, and every thing dangerous to navigation, must bt lencountered with by every hardy advei turer ; behold . Ithe horrid aspect of a country impenetrable by the Limating heat of the sun's rays; a country doomed [to be immersed in everlasting snow. See the islands Itnd floats on the coast, and the continued falls of the ce cliiTs in the ports ; these difficulties, which might ; heightened by others less dangerous, are sufficient ideter every one frororhe rash attetnpts of proceed- Bg fiirther to the soutN, than our expert and brave iinoiander has done, in search of an unknown coun- f, which when discoveredjyould answer no valuable ii-pose whatever. . {Vn.- is?>h ;-,rfn\*.» .h--. % this time, we had traversed the Southern Ocean, such a roai^ner, as to h^ye no doubt in determining |kt there is no continent ^ utiless near the pole, and out 'the reach of^navigation. We have made manv new discoveries, and ascertained the exact situation ofsevc- il old opes. Thus was the end of our voyage fully swered, a southern hemisphere sufficiently explored, od the necessity of a search after the southern conti- eot puvl an end to. We should have proceeded to irther discoveries, but our captain thought it cruel detain the people who sailed with* him any longer ritliout ttie necessary refreshments, especially as their ehaviour merited every indulgence ; for neither offi- nor meiv ever once repined at any hardship, nor Impressed any uneasiness, or additional fear.of danger, l», account of our separation from the Adventure. It [fas now high time to think of returning home ; and Id. we have continued longer, we should have cen in great danger of the scurvy breaking out among s, and we do not know any good purpose farther dis- Dvefies would have answered : we thereford steered the Cape of Good Hope, intending to look for lavet's discovery. Cape Circumcision, and the isles Penia and Marseveen. On 28S CAVTAIN eCK^K'S On Tuesday the 7th, we resumed our coarse to th. east, and this day only three ice^tslands were seen, m eight o'clock in tlie evening we hauled the windtotbel S. £. ior the night. On the 8th, at day-fight, we cob.! tinued ear conrse to the east. In the afternoon, pama three ice-islands. On the 9th, we hud a calm tuoJl part of the day ; the weather fair, except at tines i snow shoWcT; We sa W several Ice islands, but not riii least intimation that could mduce us to thiiik thstag^ land was near ur. We now stood to the N. £. withi breease which sprung up at S E. On the lOth, we] showcssof sleet and snow$ th^e weather was piereii cold, iMomuch that the water on the deck was The ice islands wefe eontinuallv in sight. Ob the I Ith, we continued to steer east. In motning we had heavv lowers of snow; but as day advanced, we had clear and seretie weadter. noon, were in lat. 59 degw If im'n. and in 7deg 95min.W. lon|itode. OirthelM,wehadiceisltii oontinualiy in sight, but most of them were small to breaking to pkces. On the 1 M, we had d heir fall of snow ; but the sky clearing up* ^e had a night, and so sharp a frost, that die water in all vessels on deek, was next mornittg covered with I sheet of ice. On the t4th, we continued to steer east, tndinidgl the north, and in the afternoon crossed the first tneril dian, or that of Greenwich, m tSie latitode of 57 W min. S. At eight o^clbck we had a hatd gale, S.S. W. and a high sea from the same charter. Oh the 15th, we steered £. N. E. ml noon, wt by observation^ we were in the larhude of 56 deg. min. 8. and ^ deg. 1 1 mln. E. longitude. Weik sailed N; £. wkh a view of getting rn(o tfie latitude i Ipape Circumersion. We had some large ice iflandif sight, and the air was nearly as cofd as the precedln day. The ifight was ioggy, with Snow showen, a smart fifost. On the I0ih» we pcmtlmred our cc K. E. and aC noon we obserred in latiucfe 55 deg. ipin. E. longitude, in which sttuatioti we had a m SECOND VOYAGE. 289 gfvell from the south, but no ice in sight. At one o'clock we stood to the south-east, till six, "v/hen we Itgcked and stood to the north. At this time we had L heavy fall of snow and sleet, which fixed to the liiasts and rigging as it fell, and coated the whole with lice. On'the 17th, we had a great high sea from the |south» and from whence we concluded no land was liear in th^t direction. On the 18th, the weather was liiir and clear. We now kept a look 'out for Cape Circumcision; if the land had ever so little extent in direction of I and S. we could not miss seeing it, as the northern DJDt is said to lie in 54 deg. On the 19th, at eight ^'clock in the morning, land appeared in the direction E. by S. but it proved a mere fog-bank. We now eered £. by S. till seven o'clock in the evening, when were in lat. 54 deg. 42 min. S- and in 13 deg. 3 MD. £. longitude; We now stood to N. W. having ivery strong gale, attended with snow showers. On londay the 20th, we tacked and stretched to the N. and had afresh gale, attended with snow showers id sleet. At noon, our latitude was 54 deg. 8 min. long. 12 deg. 59 min. £. but had hot the least sign 'land. On the S 1st, we were 5 deg. to the east of Ion. in which Cape Circumcision is said to lie, and ontinued our course east, inclining a little to the south tli the 22d. We had now measured in the lat. laid own for Bou vet's land, thirteen degrees of longitude ; [course in which it is hardly possible we could have it; we therefore began to doubt its existence ; nd concluded that what the Frenchman had seep, lid be nothing more than a deception, or an island 'ice: for after we had left the southern isles, to the :nt time, not the least vestige of land had been covered. We saw, 'tis true, some seals and pen- lins; but these are to be found in all part%of the ithern ocean, and we believe, shags, gannets, boo* fcs, and men-of-war birds, are the inost indubitable {n&that denote the vicinity of land, as they seldom go ^ry far out to sea. Being at this time only two de» 7 Oo grcM 2d0 cA^TAltl coor*! grees of longitodie from our ^out to the soath, when wc took our de^ftrture froha the Cape of Good Hope, i it 1;i*afe in vHin tor us to contifhie our cburse 'to the east under this parallel ; but thinking we migl^t have seen land farther to th^e S. for this reason, and to clear up soMe doiibVs, Wt steereid S. E. in order to get fnto the situation in whith it ^tts ftuppoied to lie. ' On the 23d, frdm obstfrvations on severd dioancci of the sun and moon, we found ourselves in 'the kt. of 55 deg. 35 nUin. S. irnd in S3 deg. 22 min. £. Ibng. and having run over the track in which Ihe land wiil stippotied to' Ire, without seeing any, 'w« now «i^e^ewcil| assured the ice islands liad deceived Mr. Bbuvet, mtl timett they had deeetved ^s. During the night, the| wind bad vecYed to N. W. Which enabkd ds t6 sto ' fnoi>e north; for we had now laid aside^ll ^bbiigbtsi searching farther after French dlsdoVerres, andfifc determined to direct our course for the Cafpe of Go Hope, intending only by ^he wav to look for the isk of Dehta and Marfieveen, Which by Dr. Halley ait laid down in the latitude of 41 deg. 5 min. knd 4 degJ £. loffgiiude from the meridian of the Chpe of Gm Hope. On Frida^r the i25th, we kteered N. £. an Were atnoon in latitude 52 deg. 52 miti. S. longitiid t96 deg. 31 min. £. This day we i»iw the Isstic island. On Wednesday the Ist of Mardh ipve Wete init latitude of 46 deg. 44 min. S. and in 23 deg. 36 tniii W, longitude ; and we took notice, that the whoU time fhe wind blew regular and constant northerlij which included several days, the tveather wasalwif cloudy atid very hazy; but as soon as it came tdtii soiith or west, it cleared Up. We also observed, th the barometer began to rise several days before th change happened. On the 3d, in the alfternoon we hi tnteryais of clear weather, but at night the wind bid a heavy scjiiall from S. W. whereby several of our ail were split, and a middle stay-sail was wholly lost. Vj were now in latitude 41 deg. 30 min. S. longitude deg. 51 liiin. £. We had not yet seen any signsi iaii' fECpKD VQYAOE. 291 Lid, but albgtroises, p^ti^reU, and other sea-birds, Lere our daily vifitprs. On thp 11th, the wind shifted U^^nly ffoip N* W. to 3* W. nirhich occasioned the qicrpury tQ (all mt sud^nly from 62 to 52 deg. so dif- ferent wi^ the state of the air between a northerly and lifputhcrly tyipd. On Saturday the 12th> som^ albatrosses and peterels lyerf shot, which prp^e^ an acQeptabl^ treat. This day Ljre were nearly in the situation in which the i^lips of pooia and Mafseveefi are said to lie, and not th^ least lippeof landing them remained. Op the 13th, wp LikkI to N. N. V' and at poon, by observation, w^re in lit. 38 deg. ^1 n^jn. $. which was abqv^ thirty mil yfP described in tb^ N. Vf. ■quarter, standing to the westwfird, two sail^ one of mk\i shewed l^utch colours. Aboujt this tipie, a Iqusrrel arose bjctvveen three officers r.nd the ship's Icooks, which was not reconciled without serious con- kqaences. Those three gentlemen, upon soipe occa- pn or other, entered the cook-room with naked Iknives, and with oaths, unbecoming their character, kwore they wpuld take away the lives of the first who Idared to aflfront them. It sf ems they had formerly met Iwith some rebuj^ for too ni^uch frequjcntipg the cook*s upartments, which had hitherto passed in a joke ; but |now a regular complaint was laid before the captain of their unwarrantable behaviour, and of the danger the |«ien were in of their lives ; into which complaint the bp^ captain 992 CAPTAIN COOKf eaptiin WM under the necessity of inquirin|; ; and upon -6iiding it JHst, of confining tbe offenders in irons. ' Whnle they were in this situation, the articles of war \^mf read, it was found that the offence was of such tf nature ns hardly to be determined without a reference taa court-martialj in order to which, the two whoapJ f^^ored most culpahle, were continued prisoners upon parole, and the. third was cleared. Aft^r this businesi had engrossed jihe captain's attention, he called the I ?ihip*s company together, and after recounting the pwJ ticulars of the^royage, the hardships they had met wiih, the fatigues ttley had undergone^ and the cheerfulnea they had cc>vftantly shewn in the discharge of ,heir duty, he gajfe them to understand, how much it would 9tin recormhend them to the Lords of the AdmiraltyJ if they w|iuld preserve a profound silence in the pom they hadryet to pass and might enter, with regard to the courses, the discoveries they had made, and every particular relating to this voyage ; and likewise after their retiirn honie, till they had their Lordships* per mission to the contrary; requiring at the sametlmp, all the officers who had kept journals to deliver them into his custody, to be sealed up, and not to be opened till delivered to their ]ordship| at the proper office. In the interim, they were to be locked up safelv in a chest. This request was cheerfully complied with bjf .every commissioned officer. On Friday the I7tb, we observed at noon in thclat of 34 deg. 42 min. S. ; in the evening we saw land, about six leagues distant, in the direction of £. N. E. and there was a great 6re or light upon it, throughout the first part of the night. On the 18th, at day-break, ^c ^aw at tfie same distance, the land again, bearing N. N. W. At nine o'clock, we sent out a boat to get up with one pi the two ships before noticed ; wc were so djcsirous of hearing news, that we paid no attention to the distance^ though the ships were at least two leagues from us. Soon after we stood to the south, aj breeze sprung up vlX west. At this time three more sail were seen to windward, one of which shewed English colours. The boat returned at one o'clock ^ • ■ ■■ P.M.' SECOND VOYAOI. 903 M. And our people in it* had hetn on< boMl Dutch indiaman coming home from Bengtlj.tHfr liipwasthe Bo wnlcirk Polder, the captain Cohielfit» lotch. The captain very politely made us a tcndtf'bf ijrar, arrack, and of any thing that could be iparedi ifof the ship. By«omc English mariners on board her, our people ere informed, that oor consort had arrived at the Cape • Good Hope twelve months ago; adding that a boat's had been murdered and eaten by the natives of Jievr Zealand. This intelligence sufficiently explained le mysterious accounts we had received from our old. ends in Queen Charlotte's Sound. On the 19th, at I o'clock in the morning, the English ship bore down I us. She was the True Briton, Capt. Broadly, on her ptom from China. A letter to the secretary of the Admiralty was committed to the care of the captain, vho generously sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other irticies. In the afternoon the True Briton stood out to: ^a, and we in for land. At six o'clock, we tacked' ^ithin five miles of the. shore^ distant as we conjectur- i, about six leagues from Cape Aquilas. On the 20th, |re stood alongshore to the west; and on 4he 21st, at on, the Table Mountain over the Cape town, bore i E. by E. distant ten leagues. The next morning |re anchored in Table Bay; with us in our reckoning, [was Wednesday the 22d, but with the people here, tuesday the 21st, we having gained a day by running; )lhcE. In the bay we found shipa of different nations, Dong which was an English East Jndiaman, from hina, bound directly for England. In this ship Capt . ok sent a. copy of his journal, together with some irts and drawings to the Admiralty. We saluted the prrison with thirteen guns, and the compliment was [turned with an equal number. "We now. heard the blorable story of the Adventure's boat's crew con- racd, with the addition of a false report, concerning loss of a French ship upon the same island, witiv total destruction of the captain and his crew, pro- ligaied no doubt, by the Adventure's people, to ren- ^r an act of savage barbarity, th.it would scarcely admit h 294 CABTAIN COOK f admit of aggravation, still more horrible. But thai which gave us full satisiactioo about this matter* »itj Capt. Fumeauxhad left a letter for our commander jn which he mentions the lost of the bait and ten of bii men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The day after our arrival at this place, Capt. Coq^J accompanied by our gentlemen, waited on fisfOQ Plettcnberg, the Dutch Governor, by whom, and principal mficers, they were treated with the greatc politeness ; and as at this phice refreshments of i kinds may be procured in great abundance, we not] after the numenms fatigues of a long voyage, begsn taste and enjoy the sweets of repose. It is a ciist hens for all ms officers to re$fde on shore, in cone . ance with which, the captain, the two Forsters, Mr. Sparman took up their abode with Mr. Fnndt well known to ow "ountrymen for his obliging readij nesa to serve them Our people on board were u neglected; and bemg provided daily with fresh bake bread, fresh meat, greens, wine, &c. they were Fcsfored to their usual strength, and as soon forgot all past hardships and* dangers. All hands were employed now to supplv alLoun frets, almost every thing except the standing rigginj was to be replaced anew ; mid it is w(^ known tb charges here for navgl stores are most exorbitant j foj the Dutch, both at the Cape and Batavia, take ai dalous advantage of the aistress of foreigners. Tii our casks, rigging, sails, &c. should be in a shattc condition, is easil}* accounted for. In circumnir gating the globe, we mean, from leaving thb pUcei our return to it again, we had sailed no less than sixi| thousand miles, equal nearly to three times the equ torial circumference of the earth ; but in all this which had been made in all latitudes, bet ween 9 i 7 1 deg. we sprung neither low-masts nor top-c nor broke so much as a lower or top-mast shroud, the Cape, the curiosity of all nations was excited, learn the success of our discoveries, and in proportifl to the earnestness of the solicitations, wherewith '^ comD •BCOND VOYAGB. 295 (oomofi taen were prescid by foreign inquttiton, they lok care to fratify thetoi ^th wonderful relations.-— {etee many stfahige stories were circulated abroad, U was known by the peopk at large at home* ler the 'Resolotion had perished at sea, or was her i^etttm to Europe. '^Difing our stay here, several foreign ships put in and jcst out, bound to and from India, namely, Gnglish, Fisncht Danish, and three Spanish ships, two going to, one returniiig from Manilla; We belie?e it is but t\ft (hat 'ships of this nation bavt touched here ; and je were the first to Whom were allowed the'same Jf lieges as other European states. We now lost no ^e in putting all things in lieadihess to complete ouc ■loytge ; but we were obliged to unhang oUr rodder, nd were also delayed for want of caulkers ; as it was )hitely riecessary to caulk the ship before we put to On the 26th of April, this work was finished, and iTJnggot oh board a fresh supply of provisions, and ^11 necessary stores, we took leave i>f the governor, and Ins princtpal officers. On the 27th, we went on board,. 1 soon after, the wind coming £sir, we weighed and to sea. When under sail we saluted the garrison, I is customary, and they returnied the compliment. ^henckar of the bay we parted cotnpai^y With some If the ships who sailed out with us : the Danish ship peered for the East Indies, the Spanish frigate, Juno, Europe, and we and the Dutton Indiaman, for St. , lelena. Depending on the goodness of Mr. Ken- H's watch, We determined lo attempt to make the ind'by a direct course. The wind, in general, blew faint all the passage, which made it longer thui iommon . On the 1 Sth of May^ at day-break, we saw the island, itant fourteen leagues, and anchored, at midnight, eforc the town, on the N. W. side of the island. Go- m Skettowe, and the gentlemen of the ishmd^ rated us, while we continued here, with the greatest irtesy. In our narrative of Captain Cook's former voyage. 296 CAPTAIN COOK S t " <' voyage, we have given a full desis j^lapd U^$ i« Jbe dlregfipn N. W. and S. ?i. a^^jj j^ ^en ipijps^ (?rQad, a»>d fiv^ p^r ^jx long. Jts f^rface js ' l^ryMren^ and scarcely ppduces a ^hri^b, plant, Qf Uqy I^iod qf vegetation, in the space qf many rnilpja^i iivi^ead qf whicn we s^w only $tpnes and ^and> Pr x^ mr fl^gs and a^hes : bence fropo the general appear- Lpe qf tbe, fa^p of \h]$ island* it is fTJore than prp!>a^- K|e, that at sofi^^ time, of vjrbipb ^e baye no accoqnt, I'll 1)9^ been destroyed hy a vplcanp. We noet witb la ^r ej^pursipns a ^n^qoth even surface in the intervJ^ls etween the beaps of stones ; but, a$ qiji^ pf oi)f pecir ije observed, yo.^ may as easily walk pver brpl^en glass mles nsov^rthe stqne$; for if ypi| slip, pr n^ake ^ ^ s^cp, ypu are ?pre tp be put or lamed. At ibe i end pf the isle Is a high mountain, which seems \q m been left in its prigip^l §tatc ; for it js covered rithakiadpfwbitie tp^rle» prpdvicing pprslain. ^pur^ Jnd one or ty^o sorts pf gr^^s. Qn tb^se the gpat^ fee^d, "lihicb are to be foMnd in tbi$ p;^ft pf the j§le. Here good lap4 crabs, and the $ea abound^ witb tgnfe January to J^^•e. Tbey always eomjc or ^hore t!> il)eir eggs in the night, when ^hcy are caught by jniog them on their l;'r,c|cs, in wbicb ppjitjpn tHejf ji left on the beach tijl the nes^t ipornjng, wh,en thp prtlcrc^itpher^ fetch them away. We are indjnei^ tp juok, that the turtle^ come to ^bis island meri^h5» ih itiUch watei* May be oU tained ks Will be necessary to Support life, yet the utJ xnost elFot-ts that tan be eniployed iti this Wbtk, ^ii(f nbt pfoeure a sufficiency tb Su{^^birf healthy especially in hoi cliiliates. Where ffesh Wate^ is fnbst Waht^; abd in the opitiibti bf Captain dook, founded bhex{}(!« rieklCe, the best judge bf this tiiattei-, tiblhlngcdn m tribute mbte tb the health of seatnet), thfiA ttieir havinjj plftrtty Of s#eet fresh ^iratef. Oil the {^5th, we Wifre m Ifat. i6 deg. 12 fnih. Nj and Iti it difeg. ic6 mill. W. loh; OlwerVing a ship wifidw^rd, bearihg doWti uj^bh uS, we Shbfteti^d salfj but on her approaching, W^ fbUtid bv hUt colours si v^as Dutch ; we therefore made sail agiiitlj knti k heir tb pursue het tourse. Oh the 2dth, we bbstr* In the lat. of 2l deg. Ql min. N. Ion. 4ddeg. 6 liDitij W. and bur course rtiade good was N. by W. Oii IM SOth, a ship passed Us withib hail ; but she tv^s fib sefitly out of sight, and we judged- her tb be Engiis We wete now in the lat. of 24 deg* 2^ ittiii. N. kt\.' deg. 47 min. W. In lat. 29 deg. 30 min. we sa^ som'e sea-plants, commonly called gUlf*Weed, htcm it is supposed to come frotn the Gulf of Florida; itifial be so, aiHl yet it Certainly vegetates at sea. ^^e coil tinued to k:e this plant xtt small pieces, tHi ifi tbeltf "... m ■V "". 8£(?dKl^ YOVAdA. 301 mde of 1)6 d(^g; N . beyond Vvhich pMU\ We s^W Ad moi'^ofSt. On the 5th df July* the Wittd veet*6d tb the cast ; end the n^Ht day it trds calrti. On (hfc 7th dnd 8th ^e had vrftiAblc light airs, biit oh the ^th the wind jjted it S. S. W. aftef i^hich w6 had a fresh gale, ahd jttered at first N. E. and theh E. H E. our intctitiort Ijeing to tttake some of the Akores, br Western Isles. Oh the nth, We wfert^ ih lat. 60 deg. 45 min N. arid iii 8« deg. 43 min. W. longitude, whert We desctied sail steering to tht west ; aiid oti the 1 2th, cattle in ight of thi'^e ni^brfe. Ott thfc ISth^ we nlide the island of F^y^l, and On \^ I4ih, At daybreak, We entered the bay bf De Hdttit) ahd at €;i|hl b'tlock anchored in 20 fatlvothi Wtef, afcoUt half d mile froiti the shore. Our desigd itoilthirtg ftt this Jilace, was to make observations, ^iti tvheiii^e might be determined with accuracy the bigllude of Ihfe Azores. We were directed by th* jm^T of th6 pdrfi Whb came bn board before We cist Li^er, tdrto6t-R E. fand 8. V/. iri this station, the [W. ^&in« ttf thfe bay botfe S. 16 deg. W. and the N. t ^oirtt, N; 33 (leg;. E. I1ie church at the N. E. end Cthe tttWri, N. 38 deg. W. the west point of St. Barge's isldnd N. 4*2 deg; E. distant eight leagues; Lth^isl^ df I^kt^extetiditlg froitiN. 74 deg. E. to (46 deg. E. distant five miles. In the bay we fourtd' m PoiitvoyiEf, * Itttge Ftetich frigate, ad American ko^) and d brig belbtiging(!0 Fayal. ^ I Ott the 1 4th j the captain sent to the cbrisul, atid M" mti but' irfivai to the governok', begging his |>ernli»« Eiita gfartt Mt. M^ales an Opportunity to m^kd hii Wtvtitioni oti lbbr«i This was readily grants, dftd W; Denr> Who dieted aS Consul In the absence of Mt, mt\\\mit, tibt bifily procured this ()ef mission, but k^ KtnMedated Mf. Wales With a coAvenieht pllc6 \A K garden to set ii^ his insti^Uftienv ; afid ih several dthef nictiUte, this g^ntleniaii discovered a frietidly r^^-* mmi td oblige ds t eveii his house was klway.< at out ■NbttMnd both ttight Aii4 diiy s and the entettaihitient ■ w^ 302 CAPTAIN COOK S we met with there, was liberal and hospitable. J^\\ the time we staid at this place, the crew of our ship vfcre supplied with plenty of fresh beef, and we pur. chased about 50 tons of water, at the rate of about three shillings per ton. To hire shore boats is the most ge. neral custom here, though ships are allowed, if they prefer many inconveniencies to a trifling expence, to water with their own boats. Fresh provisions may be got, and hogs, sheep, ind poultry, for sea-stock, at leasonable rates. The sheep are not only small, but are also very pour ; but the bullocks and hogs are exceed* ing good. Here is plenty of wine to be had. Before we proceed with our own observations, made during our abode at Fayal, it may be agreeable to our .readers, to give them a brief account and description -©fall the Azores, or Western Islands. These haYe,by different geographers, been variously deemed parts of| America, Africa, and Europe, as tiiey are almost in a central point ; but we apprehend they may with more propriety be considered as belonging to the latter^ They are a group of islands, situated in the Atlantic] ocean, between 25 and 32 deg. of W. long, and be- tween 37 and 40 N. lat. 900 miles W. of Portugi and as many £. of Newfoundland. They are nine ii number, viz. St. Taria, St. Miguel, or St. Michaelj ': Terceira, St. George, Graciosa, Fayal, Pico, Florci and Corvo. These islands were first discovered by some Fleroii jU)ips in 1432, and afterwards by the Portuguese ii 1447, to whom they now belong. The two weste most were named rlores and Corvo, from the abi dance of flowers on the one, and crows en the other. They are all fertile, and subject to a governor-generi who resided at Angra in Terceira, which is also tl seat of the bishop, whose diocese extends over all tl Azores. The income of the latter, which is paid t wheat, amounts to about 2001. sterling per year, every island there is a deputy-governor, who direct the police, militia, gnd revenue ; and a juizor judge' at tlic head of the law department, from whom lies appci SECOND VOTA6B. SOS Uppeal to a higher court at Terceira, and from thence to the supreme court at Lisbon. The natives of these lands are very litigious. ' ^ ? / f St. Miguel, the largest, is 100 miles in circumfer* Icnce, contains about 29,000 inhabitants, and is very Itrtile in wheat and flax. Its chief town is Panta del Gado. This island was twice ravaged by the English lin the time of Queen Elizabeth. Terpeir^ is reckoned the chief island, on account of L having the best harbour ; and its chief town, named lAogra, being the residence of the govemorrgeneral od the bishop. The town contains a cathedral, five itlier churches, eight convents, several courts of offi« ers, &c. and is defended by two forts. The island of Pico, so called from a mountain of St height, produces excellent wine, cedar, and a va- able wood called teixos. On the south of the island ithe principal harbour, called Villa das Lagens. The inhabitants of Flores having been many years KO infected v^itH the venereal disease by the crew of a inish man of war, that was wrecked upon their coast, I evil, it is said, still maintains its ground there, none fthe inhabitants being free from it, as in Pera^ and ither parts of Siberia, Travellers relate that no poisonous or venomous ani* lib to be found in the Azores, and that if carried bither, it will expire in a few hours, One tenth of I their productions belong to the King, and thearti- I of tobacco brings in a considerable sum. The wine lied Fayal wine, is chiefly raised in the island of Pico, bich lies opposite to Fayal. From eighteen to twenty kousand pipes of that wine are made there yearly .*«*- " of these islands enjoy a salubrious air, but are ex- td to violent earthquakes, from which they have equentlv suffered. i Villa de Horta, the chief town in Fayal, like all the kwns belonging to the Portuguese, is crowded with jligious buildings ; there being no less in this little /, than three convents for men, and two for women. |ere are also eight churches, including those belong-\ 90i •'^TAIN <»o|Cf ing 1^ th^ convent^, and th^t m th^ Jesuits' colleseJ Xhip ^pl}ej$e U a noblp strMcfpr** aod seated on ^J elevation in the pleasantest part qf the ?ity. Siqcil the expMUion of thalor^er, H has been suflTerecJ toooj to dewy, and in 9 few years, \iy the all con^pfplng h^JJ pf time, lyi^y be Mwccd to 9 heap of rqin^, TjjJ principal pr9duce of Fay^l is wheaF and |n<^ian cprol with which the inhabit^ptf supply Pipp, which in rej turn ^i^d? tb^m wine mpre ^han sqfllipi^nr for t|iti|| ponssmptipn, gre^t qq^ntities being annu?||ly ^hipp^ jfrpm De Horta, (for m Pi^p there i^ no rp^d for $hij. ping) for 4m?ric?, whenc/9 i^ l^as obtained the n^Dn ofFay^lwine. The villa de Hprt» if §i^u(^tf4 »t the bottom of . ^j^y, close tp the (tdg^ Qf tliQ ?e^- |t is d^fendefl bj ivfio c^^tles, on^ at eaph end 9^ (he tovyn, apd a stpij VPfk ejfrpi^ding ^long tbf se» *hore frqnj Ihe onp | the oth^r* PMt thp§e >ypr|ps serve impie fpr ^hcw tha ^f«pcf, Mp'*? thi^vill^,^iih4 Wst pn^ Qf Ihe isM » tb? ^y ,p!r rpad to fayal, which ff^^estbc w«st?^ ^ Pipp. It is ^ spinicirclv, aib^ut two ipilp^ in^jj IPftter ; a,n4 its depth, pr s?iip,Uf|i?f»jpteir, Js bf?ttcir |ft ihrise fpi^nh^pf ji miljE?, , y ppn the whole, we by no me^p^ |h}nk this ro^d i f^y^} ^ h^ pn?. W^ W^W ipfprffiefj by f Pprtugijcs ^p^ftii) pf ^hp fpllpwipg partiN?rj§, which, if i^ij l^e )P:Qk MAMforthy pf mm,. This JPfiftygjijesp tpj USj thai in ^he clirgctipp .pf §, g. aj?mjt l?»tf ? ^|| frppitbf rofd, and in ?> lioe bf!tW'U^y and Sr, M ich?i«l, c^led Hprrnin^s^p. W fu^l^fl iiiifp/m,e4 M^i, that the 4ift^n9e between h){ «n. Lrteen leagues, we found ourselves not more than • ])ne league from the west end. We now proceeded expeditiously as the wind would permit for Eng-, - and; and on the 29th, we made the land near Ply- DOUth. On the 30th, we cast anchor at Spithead, when tapt. Cook, in company with Messrs. Wales, Forster, id Hodges, landed at Portsmouth, and from thence (tout for London. The whole time of our absence Dm England was three years and eighteen days ;' and Iwing to the unbounded goodness r ^an Almighty Pre- per, who indulgently favoured our attempt, and econded our endeavours, notwithstanding the various lianges of climates (and they were as various as can be tperienced) we lost only one man by sickness, and jiree by other causes. Even the single circumstance of tping the ship's company in health, by means of the eatest care and attention, will make this voyage re- arkable in the opinion of every humane person ; and trust the grand end of this expedition, and the pur> ES for which we were sent into the southern hemis- jiere were diligently and sufficiently pursued. iThe Resolution made the circuit of the southern [ean in a high latitude, and Capt. Cook traversed it in cha manner, as to leave no" room for a mere possibi- of there being a continent, unless near the pole, |d consequently out of the reach of navigation. How- tr, by having twice explored the tropical sea, the nation of old discoveries were determined, and a Jber of new ones made ; so that, we flatter ourselves, pn the whole, the intention of the voyage has, though in every respect, yet upon the whole, been suffici- [iy answered 5 and by having explored so minutely Q q the 306 CAPTAIN COOKS the southern hemispliere, a final end may, perhaps, be put to searching after a continent in that part of the globe, which has, of late years, and indeed, dt times for the two last centuries, engrossed the attention ofl some of the maritime powers, and been a favouritcf theory among the geographers of all ages. The probaJ bility of there being a continent, or large tract of land I near (he pole, has been already granted ; and we maJ have seen part of it. The extreme cold, the numberJ less islands, and the vast floats of ice, give strength tol this conjecture, and all tend to prove, that there mustl be main land to the soulh^ but that this must extendi farthest'to the north, opposite to the southern Atlanticl srtid Indian oceans, we have already assigned severalf reasons J of which, one is the greater degree of cold in these seas, than fn the southern Pacific Ocean, under! the same parallels of latitude; for in this last ocean, the mercury in the thermometer seldom fell so low as the freezing point, till we were in lat. GOdeg. and upwards] whereas in the other oceans, it fell as Jow as thejatij tudfc of 45 deg. the cause whereof we attributed to greater quantity of ice, which extetided farther nortlj in the Atlantic and Indian oceans, than in the souti( Pacific sea ; and supposing the ice t6 bf fourteen days from Amster- ^m, and stood alongshore till we reached Cape Turn* gain, when a heavy storm -blew us off the coast for tiree days successively, in which time we were sepa- ited from our consort, the Resolution, and saw her M afterwards rn the course of her voyage. On Thursday, the 4th of November, .we regained [he shore, o^r Cape Palliser. Some of the natives Vught us in their canoes abundance of cray fish and [rait, which they exchanged for our Otaheite cloth, nails, &c. On the 5th the storm ^gain returned, and vt vftsc driven off the shore a second tiipe by a vio- * Qq2 lent wm S08 CAPTAIN cook's lent gale of wind, accompanied by lieavy falls of sicer which lasted two days ; so that by this time our decks began to leak, our beds and bedding were wet, which gave many of our people colds ; and now we wen most of us complaining, and all began to despair ol ever getting into the Sound, or, which we had moj at heart, of joining the Resolution. We combatci the storm till Saturday the 6th, when being to thi north of the cape, and having a hard gale from S. \V, we bore away for some bay, in order to complete oui wood and water, both of which articles we were ai present in great want. For some days past we h* been at the allowance of one quart of water, and ii was thought six or seven days more would deprive u! • even of that scanty pittance. On the 9th, in lat. 38 deg. 21 min. S. and in 17 deg. 37 min. E. Ion. we came abreast of Tolaga Bai and in the forenoon anchored in eleven fathoms water] jStiflF muddy ground, which lay across the bay foraboul two miles. This harbour is open from N.N. E. to E| S. £. nevertheless it affords good riding with a westerl; wind ; and here are regular soundings fronii five ti twelve fathoms. Wood and water are easily procured, (except when the winds blow hard easterly, and thei at such times, which are but seldom, they throw in great sea. The natives about this bay are the same as those Queen Charlotte's Sound, but more numerous, ai have regular plantations of sweet potatoes^ and ottii roots. They have plenty of fish of all sorts, whici we purchased with nails, beads, and other trifles, li one of their canoes, we saw the head of a womai . lying in state, adorned with feathers, and other orni ments. It had all the appearance of life, but upon nearer view, we found it had been dried ; yet, evei feature was in due preservation and perfect. We jud; cd it to be the head of some deceased relative, kept a relic. On the 12th, having taken on board ten tons water and some wood, we set sail for the Soynd 3 bi SECOND VOYAGE. S09 fgt were scarcely out when the wind began to blovir Lead hard on the shore, so that not being able to clear Ithe land on either tack, we were obliged to return to the Iwv, where we arrived the next morning of (he 13lh ; and having anchored, we rode out a heavy gale of wind toE. by S. attended with a very great sea. We novir began to fear the weather had put it out of our power toioin our consorf, having reason to believe she was in [charlotte's Sound, the appointed place of rendezvous, lind by this time ready for sea. Part of the crew were )W employed in stopping leaks, and repairing our ijigiring, which was in a most shattered condition. On the 14th and 15th, we hoisted out our boats, and tnt them to increase our stock of wood and water; but Ion the last day, the surf rose so high, that they could not make the land. On the 1 6th, having made the ship las snug as possible, we unmoored at three o'clocjc M. and before six got under weigh. From this time Itolhc 28th, we had nothing but tempestuous weather, |io which our rigging was almost blown to pieces, and Dur men quite worn down with fatigue. On the 29th, our water being nearly expended, we rere again reduced to the scanty allowance of a quart iinan per day. We continued beating backward and forward till the 30th, when the weather became more Boderate; and having a favourable wind, we were so iappy at last as to gain with safety our desired port. Utergetting through Cook's Streights, we cast anchor ^three o'clock P. M. in Queen Charlotte's Sound, fesaw nothing of the Resolution, and began to doubt er safety ; but upon having landed, we discovered the place where she had pitched her tents ; and upon fur- [her examination, on an old stump of a tree, we read |hese words cut out, " Look underneath." We com- plied instantly with these instructions, and digging, m found a bottle corked and waxed down, wherein ras a letter from Captain Cook, informing us of their irhvalat this place on the 3d instant, and their depar- ture on the 24th, and that they intended spending a few lays in the entrance of the straits to look for us. We immediately SIO CAPTAIN cook's ''f. unmedtately set about the necessary repak leaving their cane with inost of the things that had been stolen, agrouo on the beach. This petty larceny, it is probable, laij the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which soo ^fter happened. On the nth, at which tin^e we were preparing I our departure, we sent out our large cutter, m jwith seven seamen, under the command of Mr. Ro ihe first mate, accompanied by Mr. Woodhouse, «htpman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpent aervant. They were to proceed up the Sound toGr i^ve> to gather greens^nd ceie?y for the ship's co paoi S£CO>JD VOrXGE. 311 pany, with orders to return that evening ; for the tents |,j(l been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship ijjade ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on and no cutter appearing, the captain and others bcffan to express great uneasiness. They sat up all jjjffht, in expectation of their arrival, but to no pur- i^e. At day-break, therefore the captain ordered the Lunch to be hoisted out. She was double manned, lifl under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. 8urney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, th« flfporal of marines, with five private men, all well jrmed, and having plenty of ammunition, two wall pieces, and three days provisions. They were ordered Srst to lock into East Bay, then to proceed to Grass [)ve, etid if nothing was to be seen or heard of the [.litter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and eturn by the west shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the jiine proposed for his departure, we thought his curior lily might have carried him into East Bay, none j>f our ieopie having been there, or that some accident might lave happened to the boat ; for not the least suspicion IBS entertained of the natives, our boats having been ligher up, and worse provided. Mr. Burney returned ' 3Ut eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a lilted description of a most horrible scene indeed ; be subs'ar.ce, and every material particular of whose ports are contained in the following relation, tich includes the remarks of those who attended If. Barney. On the 18th, pursuant to our orders we left the ship, 5ut nine o'clock in the morning. Having a light Ireeze in our favour, we soon got round Long Island, p.d Long Point. We continued sailing and rowing East Bay, keeping close inshore, and examining [ith our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till irtwo o'clock in the afternoon, at which time we pped at a beach on our left, going up East Bay to our dinner. While we were cooking, we saw indian on the opposite shore, running along a beach ' to ai2 CAPTAIN COOK S to the head of a bay ; and when our meat was just done tve perceived a company of the natives seemingly busy- upon seeing which, we got immediately into the boat' put off, and rowed quickly to the place where the savages were assembled, which was at the head of the beach ; and he.e, while approaching, w^ discerned one of their settlements. As we drew near, some of the Indians came down upon the rocks, and waved for us to depart ; but perceiving we disregarded them they altered their gestures and wild notes. At this place we observed six large canoes hauled upon the beach, most of them being double ones ; but the num. ber of people were in proportion neither to the sizeofj these canoes, nor the number of houses. Our little company, consisting of the corporal and his five marines, headed by Mr. Burney, now landed, leaving the boat's crew to g^ard it. Upon our ap proach the natives fled with great precipitatloii. We followed them closely to a little town, whL< h %nd deserted ; but, while we were employed ii. searching their huts, the natives returned, making a shew of re-| Sistance j but some trifling presents being made toj their chiefs, they were very soon appeased. However,] or: our return to the boat, the savages again followei us, and some of them threw stones. As ws camej down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of hepatoos, or long spears, but seeing Ml Burney looked very earnestly at him, he walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of his companions ap pearing to be terrified, a few trifles were given 'O eachSi'i^^irc;? 'hirnira of them. ^ ' , J J , % ^Ve now procee From the place where we now landed, the i;a)|^f -v .^rhing else seemed to run full a mile N. N. W. where it ended inr"*' long sandy beach. After dinner we took a view of ihi country near the coast with our glasses, but saw not canoe, or signs of inhabitants, after which we fired llii wall pieces^ as signals to the cutter, if any of the peo pie should be within hearing. We now renewed oui search along the east shore ; and came to another tlement where the Indians invited us ashore. \v^ '1 quirci quired of them ignorance. Th lome fish. About five t' hour after we j bay adjoining t( (jouble canoe, ji oen and a dog. proach, instantly Ibere we should 1 inding, and exs w therein, wer line shoes, one g belong to Mr. A piece of fli hich at first wai onging to the supposed it tG leniable proof nvinced us vire ^ advancing fa enty baskets tie iled flesh, whic human. We c re full of roas Bch serves then nd more shoes (cly known to hai f fore-casfle mer "at* intending loke ascending wible h^-^te tQ b< At half.past six one single, an ny naHv«8 assere J»all hill, withir 'Jtr" they stood 7 SECOND Y0YA6S. 91S Auired of them about the cutter, but they pretended j^orance. They teemed very friendly, and sold uf lome fish. About five t'clock in the afternoon, and within an liour after we had left this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here we saw a large ^ble canoe, just hauled upon the beach, with two isen and a dog. The two savages, on seeing us ap^ Ipfoacb, instantly fled, which made us suspect it was liere we should have some tickings of the cutter. On ding, and examining the canoe, the first things we w therein, were one of the cutter's ruHocic ports, and me shoes, one of which among the latter, wns known bclorig to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one of our peopYe* hich at first was thought to be some of the salt m$a<; onging to the cutter's men, but upon examination^ supposed it to be dog's flesh ; a most horrid an4 eniable proof soon cleared up our doubts, and mvinced us we were among no other than cannibals |' If, advancing farther on the beach, we saw about enty baskets tied up, and a dog eating a piece of lied flesh, which, upon examining, we suspected ta human. We cut open the baskets ; some of which e full of roasted flesh, and others of fern root. Inch serves them for bread* Searching others, we nd more shoes, and a hand, which was immedi- tely known to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of I fore-castle men, it having been tattowed wi^-h thtt ^^:':?^i8 irf his name. j^ V e now proceeded a little way in the woods, but K'^s^'vV iCihing else. Our next design was to launch the liOCj intending to destroy her ; but seeing a great Hoke ascending over the nearest hill, we made all' jibic h^<^te to be with them before sjun-set. At half-past six we opened Grass Cove, where we |w one single, and three double canoes, and a great iny natives assembled on the beach, who retreated to Ismail hill, within a ship's length of the waterrside, hcr> they stood talkinj^ to us. On the top of the high V 314 CAPTAIN COOK S high land, beyond the woods, was a large fire, from whence all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon was fired at one of the canoos, as we imaJ gined they might be full of men lying down ; for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear, orj a desire to decoy us into an ambuscade, we were deter- mined not to be surprised, and therefore running closel inshore, we droppea the grappling near enough tol reach them with our gu)as; but at too great a distanGel to be under any apprehensions from their treachery.l The savages, on the little hill kept their ground, halJ looing, and making signs for us to land. At these vrel DOW took aim, resolving to kill as many of themasour| 'b')l'«;tR would reach; yet it was some time before wc CO. lislodge them. The first vplley did not seem to afleci them much ; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they could, some howlingand others limping. We continued to fire as long as n could see the least glimpse of any of them through tli bushes. Among these were two very robust men, wlifl maintained their ground, without moving an inch, till they found themselves forsaken by their companion^ and then, disdaining to run, they marched off ivitl great composure md deliberation. One of them howj ever got a fall, and lay there, or crawled away on hij hands and feet ; but the other escaped without anyap parent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic! ^nd, supported by the marines, leapt on shore, and purl sued the fugitives. We had not advanced far from the water-side, oj the beach, before we met with two bundles of celer which had been gathered by the cutter's crew, i broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to whici the natives had tied their canoes ; whereby we werj convinced this was the spot where the attack hadbeej made. We now searched all along at the back of thj beach, to see if the cutter was there, but instead of be |he most horrible scene w^s presented to qur view thai SECOND VOYAGE* 315 ^as ever beheld by any European ; for here lay the jbearts, heads, and lungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs, in a mangled condition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies* which made us suspect, that the cannibals had feaisted upon, and devoured the rest. To complete this shocking view of carnage and bar- Ibarity, at a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing. [their entrails. We observed a large body of the natives Icoliected together on a hill about two miles off; but as loight drew on apace, we could not advance to such a. Idistance : neither did we think it safe to attack them, lor even to quit the shore, to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a very small one, and be savages were both numerous and much irritated.- — fhik we remained almost stupefied on the spot^ Mr.. Fannen said that he heard the cannibals assemblrng in he woods, on which we returned to the boat, and hav-^ Dg hauled alongside the canoes, we demolished three^ them. During this transaction, the fire on tbe top of lie hill disappeared, and We could hear the savages in wood& at high words ; quarrelling perhaps, on ac*- ounl of their different opinions, whether they should. jtlack us, and try to save their canoes. They were armed with long lances, and weapons uiilike a Serjeant's halbert in shape, made of hard^ Ifood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We spected that the dead bodies of our peoph had been. |ivided among those different parties of cannibals, who, ad been concerned in the massacre ; and it was not^ Bprobable, that the group we saw at a distance by the e,were feasting upon some of them, as those on shore^ ||d been, where the remains were found, before the/; been disturbed by our unexpected visit: be that, it may, we could discover no traces of more than, irof our friendi' bodies, nor could we find the place; [here the cutter was concealed. It now grew dark,, which account, we collected carefully the remains [ourmangled friends, and putting off, made the best our way fromi this polluted place, not without a few 316 CAPTAIN eOOK 8 few execrations bestowed on' the blood-thirsty im abi. tents. When we opened the upper part of the Sound I we saw a* very large fire about three or four milci)! higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the water-side',, the middle space being inclosed all round by the lircj like a hedge. Mr. Burncy and Mr. Fannen havingl consulted together, they were both of opinion, thatl we cotild> by an attempt, reap no other advantage! than the poor satisfaction or killing more of tli MVBges. Upon leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a volky . towards where we had heard the Indians talking; bu by going in and out of the boat, our pi^es had g( wet, and foiir of them missed fire. What renderc our situation more critical Was, it began to rain, an otir ammunition was nrrore than half expended. We] for these reason's, without spending time where nothini Could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for thq sHip^ and arrived safe aboard about midnight. Such h the account of this tragical event ; the poor victir were far enough out of hearing, and in all probabilit t¥^y matt of them must have been butchered the spot. It tnay be proper here to mention, that the whol^j number of men in the cutter were teu, namely, ¥ Rowcj our first-mate, Mr. WOodhottse, a midshipflnanj Francis Murphy, ■quarter-masttf , James Sevilley, th Cftptain*s servantj John Lavenaugh, and Thomas Mil ton, betofrging to the after-guard ; WiHiam Face)r| Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, fo ciistle-nien. M^st of these wwe the stoutest irtd mt b^lthy people in the ship, having been selected froii cur best seamen. Mr. Burney's party brottght on boa the head of the captain's servant, with two hands, on belonging to Mr. Rowe, known by a hurt it bad ceived; and the other to Thomas Hill, bemg irwrl With T. H. as before mentioned. These with othe lifiangled remains^ were inclosed in a hamnnock, t^ith the UBualcereinoiny observed on board ships, w^ ^- committed SECOND VOYAGE. 819 Ljnmitted to the sea. Not any of their arms were Lund ; nor any of their clothes, except six shoes, no Itwo of which were fellows, a frock and a pair of Itrowsers. We do not think this melancholy catastrophe Uas the effect of a premeditated plan, formed by the UvageSi for two canoes came down, and continued |ill the forenoon in Ship Cove, and these Mr. Rowe jinct and bartered with the natives for some fish. We Ire rather inclined to believe, that tlife bloody transac* jtion, originated in a quarrel with some of the Indians. IwKich was decided on the spot ; or, our people ram** lying about too secure, and incautious, the fairnetis of [Opportunity might tempt them to commit the bloody and what might encourage them was, they had id out, that our guns were not infallible ; they had en them miss finci and they knew that whendischargedj must be loaded, before they could again doany ex^^ curionj in which interval of time they could take roper advantage of it. From those circumstances we fwncluded, that after their success, there wa*; a genera! iting pn the east side of the Sound. We know the Indians of Shag Cove were there, by a long single aoc, which some of our people with Mr. Rovvre had en before in Shag Cove. After tiMS shocking affair, we were detained font ays in the Sound by contrary winds, in which time- ire saw none of the inhabitants. It is a little remark^ i, that Capt Furneaux had been several times op i» Cove with Capt. Cook, where they saw no inha- itants, dsttd no other signs of any, but a few deserted |riliages, which appeared as Vf they had not been oc* )icd for many years ; and yet in Mr. Bumey*« union, when he entered the same cove, there could [be less xh^n fifteen hundred or two thousand people, they been apprised of his coming, we doubt not, ey would have attacked him ; and seeing not a pro- iility refnainod of any of our people being alive, these considerations, we thought it would be im- ient to renew the search, and send a lyoat up again. On Thursday the 28d bf December, we departed from. 318 CAPTAIN COOK S from, and made sail out of the Sound, heartily vexed at the unavoidable delays we had experienced, so conJ trary to our sanguine wishes. We stood to the easN ward to clear the Straits, which we happily effected the same evening, but we w^re baffled for two oh three days with light winds before we could, clear the! coast. In this interval of time, the chests and effectsl of the ten men who had been murdered, were soldi before the mast, according to an old sea custom. \^J now steered S. S. £. till we got into the latitude of 5g| deg. S. At this time we had a great svvell from the southward, the winds blew strong from S. W, the! weather began to be very cold ; the sea made a cor tinual breach over the ship, which was low and deep] Jaden, and by her continual straining, very few of oui seamen were dry either on deck or in bed. In th{ latitude of 58 deg. S. and in 213 deg. £. Ion. we ftlj in with some ice, and standing Jo the east, saw ever day more or less. We saw also the birds common ia this vdst ocean, our only companions, and at times wc met with a whale or porpoise, a seal or two, and afev penguins. ; * J '/On. the 10th of January, 1774, we arrived a-.brea of Cape Horn, in the lat. of 61 deg. S. and in the run froni Cape Palliser in New Zealand to this cape, wc were little n^ore than a mpnth, which is 12i deg. Ipng. in that short time. The winds were continuallj \VfiSferIy, witha great sea. Having opened some cask Qf peas and flour, we found the ni very much daniagedj for which reason we thought it most prudent tomakj for the Cape of Good Hope, intending first to get iota the l?it. and long, of Cape Circumcision. When.tothc eastward of Cape Horq, we found the winds cao more from the north, and not so strong and frequer from the, west ward as usual, which brought on thic foggy weather J so that for several days together, wq were not able to make ah observation,, tbe sun all tl time not beirigjvisible. This weather lasted above i month, in^hich time we; were among a great inani kiands of ice, whi^h kept us constantly. on the looii outJ SECOND VOYAGE. 319 jnt, for fear of running foul of them. Our people ^vf began to complain of colds, and pains in their Jibs, on account of which we haulfd to the north- ard, making the lat. of 54 deg. S. We then steered the cast, with an intention of finding the land laid lown by M. Bouvet. As we advanced to the east, benights began to be dark, and the islands of ice be- iine more numerous and dangerous. On the 3d of March, we were in the lat. of Bouvet's iscovery, and half a league to the eastward of it ; but it perceiving the least sign of land, either now, or ince we attained this parallel, We gave over a further jch after it, and hauled away to the northward. In our last tract to the southward, we were within a degrees of the longitude assigned for Bouvet's dis- ivery, and about three degrees to the southward ; if irefore there should be any land hereabouts, it must a very inconsiderable island ; or rather, wc are in- icd to think, a mere deception from the ice ; for, in ir first setting out, we concluded we had made dis- ivcries of land several times, which proved to be only Bgh islands of ice, at the back of large fields, which '.Qouvet might easily mistake for land, especially as was thick foggy weather. On the ntl , in the latitude i8 deg. 30 min. S. and 14 deg. 26 min. E. longitude^ we saw two large lands of ice. On the 18:h, we made the land of the ipeof Good Hope, and on the 19th, anchored in ible Bay. Here we found Commodore Sir Edward hughes, with his majesty's ships Salisbury and Sea- prse. We saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, id the Commodore with an equal number ; the latter rned the full complement, and the former, as usual, bted us with two guns less. At this place Captain neaux left a letter for Captain Cook ; and here vv^e ained to refit the ship, refresh the people. Sic till 16th of April, when we hoisted sail for England ; on the 14th of July, to the great joy of all our sai- , anchored at Spithead, From mmmmmm ■MP IP S20 CAPTAIN COOK S From a review of the whole, our readers musl see how much this natiofi is indebted to that able circun).] navij;ator Capt. Cook. If they only compare the course] the Resolution steered, and the valuable ditcoveries she] zaade, with that pursued by the Adventure, after c.y parted company^ the contrast will be sofliciently strikj mg. How meritorious must also that person appeal in our judgment, who hath not only discovered, bu( surveyed vast tracts of new coasts; who has dispelled the illusion of a terra australis incognita, and fixed the bounds of the habitable earth, as well as those of thg navigable ocean, in the southern hemisphere? Kq propositioti was ever more clearly demonstrated, t\ there is no continent undiscovered in the southc hemisphere, between the equator and the 50th deg. i 'south lat. in which space, all who have contended foj its existence, have included, if not the whole, at the most considerable part ; but at the same time thi we declare ourselves thus clearly convinced of the nc existence of a continent within the limils just me tioned, we cannot help acknowledging our ready ]ief» that the land our navigators have discovered totb^ S. £. of Staten-Land, Is a part of a continent, project ing from the north in a narrow neck, aknd expand'nl to the southward and westward, and more particulaii)| towards the cast. In this belief we are streogthe by the strong representation of laitd seen at a distaoc by our navigators, in lat, 12 deg. and Qb2deg. lon.ai by the report of Theodore Gerrards, who, after passir the straits of Magellan, being driven by tempests intij the lat. of 64 deg. S, in that height came in and seal^. The Jatter were not numerous, but so insensible to fear] that they killed as many of them as they pleased, fo the sake of their fat or blubber, to make oU for tbei] lamps and other uses. On the 29th, they left thishaij bour, and ranging along the coast, to ascertain its po sition and extent, they discovered several promoritorie and bays, with a peninsula, and a new harbour, toi which Capt. Cook gave names. On the 31st, Capt. Cook left this coast, steering! by N. and on ihe 24th of January 1777, saw VanDiJ men's Land, which is tht southern point of New Hoj land. On the 26th they anchored in Adventure B^jf iivhere they were employed in procuring wood an water. On the 28th, they wer^ agreeably surprii with a visit from some of the natives, eight menanj a boy. They approached from the woods with tli greatest confidence imaginable. One of them had| stick in his hand about two feet long, pointed at enti. They were quite naked, and wore no ornanient| unless we consider as such, some large punctures ridges on different parts of their bodies, some in straigb and some in curved lines. They were of the comnifl stature, but slender. Their skin was black, and all their bair, which was as woolly as that of any natiw( Guinea ; but they had not remarkably thick lipsnorf noses. On the contrary, their features were far froj being disagreeable. They had pretty good eyes, aif their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty. Mostj them had t'neir hair and beards smeared with red oin ir.enr, with which some also had their faces painted. | ' Every present made to them they received witho the least appearance of satisfaction. When some br was given, as soon as they understood it was tobccatc ihey cither returned it or threw it away, without ev^ tastipg it. They also refused some fish, both rawaif dressed; but on giving some birds to them, their bek viour indicated a fondness for such food. Capt. Co had brought t\yo pigs ashore, with a view of leaiij jlhcm in the woods j but the instant these camcwilhl «een, in which THIRD VOYAGEi 325 teach of the savages, they seized them as a dog would [have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off [immediately; with no other intention^ as could be per- tceived, but to kill them. Being desirous of knowing ]iit use of the stick before mentioned, Capt. Cook, by iigDS, prevailed upon one of them to shew him. This lavage set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at [it, at the distance of about 20 yards ; on repeated trials, however, he was always wide from his object. Omai, to shew them the superiority of our weapons, then fired [jus musket at it; which alarmed them so much, that ley ran instantly into the woods. Notwithstanding their consternation on this occasion, loo the 29th about twenty of them, men and boys, vi- sited the crew again ; one of this party was conspicu- ously deformed, and not more distinguishable by the hump on his back, than by the drollery of his gestures, and seeming humour of his speeches; which were evi- dently exhibited for the entertainment of his strange fisitors : his language, however, was wholly unintel- [ligible. Sctne of this group wore, loose round their necks, Idiree or four folds of small cords, made of the fur of iome animal; and others had a slip of the kanguroo hkin tied round their ancles. Captain Cook gave to Ittch of them a string of beads and a medal, which they seemed to receive with satisfaction ; but they set Qo value on Iron or iron tools. They appeared not to Iknow the use of fish hooks, nor was any canoe or vessel iKen, in which they could go upon the water. Yet Itheli-fish made a part of their food, as was evident from heaps of muscle-shells that were seen in different Iparts near the shore. Their habitations were little liheds or hovels built of sticks, and covered with bark. lEvident signs appeared of their sometimes taking: up Itheir abo^ in the trunks of trees, which had been hol- llowed out by fire; and the marks of fire near these ha- |bitations, and near every heap of shells, were indubi- tble prQofs that they did not eat of their flesh raw. Somc'^ wmsmmmim ms ^mxL.,^.jiuMmwmim u\m tJ26 CAPTAIN COOK S Some time after seveiral women and children made their appearance, and (Capt. Cook having left his party of wood-cutters) were introduced by the men who at. tended them» to Lieutenant King, who presented them all with such trifles as he had lubout him. These females wore a kangurc i skin, in the shape as it came from the aniinal, tied over their shouli^r^ and round their wai«t» Its only u^ seemed to be,^ siimu>rt thiir j children when carried on thettbackaf i>r it did not cover those p^i^ which most nations cdnceal; being,! in bil o^her r«6pectS| as Qak«d as tbeinen, andas black,' and theif bodies maik^dvwtthscaiis^^hl^he manner! Some of ^m^ had them bai^ cbqa&fetely shorn, or I shiived', m others thia operation bait beftn performed I only on one side; whilst the rest of thent had all the upper part of the bead shorn close, havbig a circle (^ hair all round, somewHat likethe tonsure of the Romanf Ecclesiastics. Many of the children had fine features^ and were thought pretty ^ but of the persons of the | women, e8()eciariy of those advanced i^ years, a favourable opinion was formed. ,/However the gentle* I men of' the Discovery, Captain Cook was told, paid their addresses, and made liberal offera. o(^ presentsj which were rejected with great disdain | whether from a sense of virtue^ or a fear of displeasing their men, he could not determine. That tbis^ gallantry |was not agreeable to tl»e Tatter, is certait); br an elo^^rly man, assooA as he observed it, ordered all th« w^menand childreh to retire, which they obeyed, tboUgh some of I them shewed a little rehxctancei Captain Cook's re- [ flection on tAiis circumstance must not be omitted: <* This conduct of Eiimpean^ an^dng savage^ to their women, is highly blameablei as it creates a Jealoasyl In their men, that may be attended ^ttb consequences! fatal to the success of common enti^i|{e, i^nd to thel whole body of the adventurers, witboutiiiiiiiincinf the private purposes of the individ^«/Or enablihg him to gain the object of his wishes. I believe it hasbeenl generallyxfound among uncivilized people^ that wherel Hhc women are easy of access, the men are the first toj offerl -I ^ -t #• u1 ' " > V ^. •«-. ^'•«. ' / , .<' ^'«' Lifer ithem to s Icasf;, neither tl Iluiiityofprivac llliis obseryati( beparts of tin To C»pt. G [Mr. Anderson >rs respecting ble prodtictioil Itbe'sinalldst sal 0ffoi-est trees tl nly animal ol et, wtis a sort rge rat j -and |that species. It ibtownorrust of its tail, towi «ath; by whi< Ijhe trees. Its it liiie feathered n [tith^ pretty lo of a beautiful |Mptacilia Calyj With teispec [(besides what C Ithat they pos! ferilds, they sc inimated'tiativc iinrention'iuffici «lves frotn the Dished with the hey seemed to cuttih{g their eogthsand din nrface of the sJ hid they tise in Dot exjsf^ssing t jected, at seein| po v»hich they I lindifferencc tot TRrKD V0TA6B. 8«7 Lifer ithem to strangers} and that where -this is not the Icasr , neither the allurement of presents, nor the oppor- jtuiiity of privacy will be likely to hare the desired effect. This observation, I atn sure, will hold -good throligh «1^ Itheparts of thii'Sbuth'Sea where 1 have beien." To Capt. Cook's -account of Van Diemen'S LAnd, hjliT. Anderson, his Surgedn, hais added hiahyipartitii- [jars respecting its natural history. Among ks v^gylft- ||)]e productions, he could not find one that; afibrdisd ttbe'sonalldst subsistence for roan. ' Tfaisre are Iwo'kinds of forest trees that are quite unknown td* Europe. T\ie ily animal of the quadruped kind, which he could- et, was a sort of dpOssi^ro, about tfwice th6 stsfe of ^ rgerat; -and which is, most |>robably, the male of Ithat species. It is of a dusky colour above^ tinged with ibrown orrusty cast, and'whitish below. About a third of its tail, towards its top, is white, and bare undcr- eath; by which it probably hangs on the branches' of [the trees, Iks it climbs these and lives on berries. Of jibe feathered. race, the niqst singullir was a small blfd, jlritha pretty long tail, and part of the head and beck of a beautiful azdre colour, whence they named it [Mptacilla Cayanea. IVith reispect to the inhabitants, Mr. AndlM^n (licsldcs what Capt. Codk has already observed) says, Ithat they possess little activity ; and that, as >for genias, they seem to have less than even thefmtiF- inimated natives of Terra del Fuego, tvho have -rtdt jhitention 'Sufficient to make clothing to defend thett- eWes from the rigour of their climate, thbdfgh 1^- Dished with the materials. The bnly thing in ilvhich hey seemed to diiplay Contrivance, was me miKbher ofcattiblg their arms and bodies, in lines of ' difTel^yit eogths and directions, raised considerably abbve the irfaceof the skin; for it is difficult tq^gikss theme- M they tise in this embroidery of their pefsoni. Thtfir not ext^rtssing that sUrprbe, which: one might harre«ilc- ected, at seeing men so unlike themsehes^ ind iMngs, ^0 which they rad been ^ hereunto utter strangefs, ^their jindHFerence totfae'presents made tof thett^i'^nd* gefjwelal Mnattention» f !VJ S28 CAPTAIN COOK 8 inattention^ were sufficient proofs of their not posset sing any acuteness of understanding. What the ancienti poets feigned, of faWns and satyrs living in hollot. trees, is here realized. Many of their largest trees werj converted into more comfortable habht!ions than th^ wretched construction of sticks mentioned before] These had their trunks hollowed out by fire, to th height of six or seven feet ; and that they take up thei] abode in them sometimes was evident from thj hearths, made of clay, to confine the fire in the middle] leaving room for four or five persons to sit round it. a| the same time, these places of shelter are durable i k they take care to leave one side of the tree sound, whicll is sufficient to keep it growing as luxuriantly as the which remain untouched. In the morning of the 30th of January, a ligli breeze springing up at W. both ships put to sea. So after the wind veered to the southward, and increas to a perfect storm. Its fury abated in the eveniog when it veered to £. and N. £. This gale was indicated by the barometer ; for th wind no sooner began to blow, than the mercury i| the tube began to fall. Another remarkable thing! tended the coming on of this wind, which was ve faint at first. It brought with it a degree of heat thi was almost intolerable. The mercury in the thern^ meter rose as it *7ere instantaneously from about 701 90 deg: This heat was of so short a continuance, th it seemed, to be wafted away before the breeze th brought it; so that some on board did not perceive i| Qn the 10th of F^ruary, they discovered the Ian pf New Zealand ; and on the 12th anchored at th old station in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Here th were fully employed till the 25th, in procuring wo water, and giass for their cattle $ in brewing sprue beer, as a preservative frotn the scurvy $ and in makioj the necessary observations to find the fate of the tin keeper, &c. &c. The natives -came alongside the ship in canoes, l^wed great reluctance when requested to come i ,4 boar THIRD VOYAGE. 329 [board. Captain Cook imputed this behaviour to their being apprehensive, that he had revisited their coun^ tiy, in order to revenge the death of Captain Fur- jneaux's people, about ten of whom having landed from the boat, in a part of the Sound, were massacred by the savages. In this idea. Captain Cook endea*- foured to convince them of the continuance of hie Ijiriendship, and that he should not molest them on ac- Icoant of this melancholy transaction ; and the natives Inon returned to their former confidence and freedom [intercourse. Captain Cook, however, was so much on his guards bat all his workmen were Under the protection of the Dirines, and no boat was sent to any distance from ships without bein|r well officered and armed; he had not only the tragical fate of the Adven- ore's boat's crew in his mind, but that of Captain. Urion, and some of his people, in the Bay of Islands^ 1772. Several of the natives erected a kind of temporary ^lage of huts, close to Captain Cook's encampment. sides these, he was occasionally visited by others^- m different quarters. The articles of commerce Ddaced by the natives, were curiosities, fish, and |ro(nen. The two first always came to a good market; liich the latter did not. The seamen had taken a pnd of dislike to these people ; and were either un* png, or afraid, to associate with them ; **. which iuced this good effect," says Captain Cook, " that [knew no instance of a man's quitting his station, to to their habitations." Among th6ir occasional visitors was a chief, named ihoora, who headed the party that cut off Captain rneaux's people, and bad hithaelf killed Mr. Rowe, officer who commanded. Some of the natives Agly importuned the captain to sacrifice him to his Dgeance. " Had I followed the advice of all our (tended friends^" says Captain Cook, ** I might have tirpated the whole race ; for the people of each ham«> or village, by turns, applied to me to destroir the er," and Omai joined in these solicitations. But Tt V Kaboora 330 CAPTAIN COOK S |Caboora reposed a perfect confidence in the good faith of Captain Cook, and had no reason to repent it. Captain Cook, one day, made an excursion to Grass Cove, the memorable scene of the massacre. Her he met with his old friend Pedro; and from him, and some of the natives, who were entirely guiltless of the deed, they received the shocking particulars ; whicli were as follow : ** That while our people were sitting at dinner, surrounded by several of the natives, somq of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread and fish, for which they were beat. This being re] sented, a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanden were shot dead, by the only two musqu?ts that wer^ fired ; for before our people had time to discharge third, or to load again those that had been fired, thj natives rushed in upon them, overpowered them witj numbers, and put them all to death." Captain Cook was told, '* that a black servant Captain Furneaux, who had been left i-n the boattj take care of her, was the cause of the quarrel: tha one of the natives stealing something out of the boaj the negro gave him a severe blow with.a stick: th( the cries of the -fellow being heard at a distance, the imagined he was killed, and immediately began tii attack upon our people ; who before they had tie to reach the boat, or to arm themselves against th impending danger, fell a sacrifice to the fury of th savages. Captain "Cook thought it probable that both thcj accounts were true ; it being natural to suppose, thj while some of the natives were stealing from the coij left in the boat, others of them might be taking tlj same liberties with the property of our people, wi were on shore. But all'agreed, that there was no pr meditated plan of bloodshed ; and that if the thefts! not been too hastily resented, no mischief would ha^ happened. Kahoora being questioned by Captain Cc said, that one of his countrymen having broughtarto hatchet to barter, the man to whom it« was offered io it, and would neither return it, nor give any thing jl THIRD VOYAGE. 331 it; on which the owner of it snatched up the bread lis an equivalent, and thus the quarrel began. On the 20th, there was a violent storm from the N, If. The gusts of wind from the hills were very violent, linsomuch that they were obliged to strike the yards and |top-masts to the utmost, and yet with difHculty rode Itdut. These storms are very frequent here. The neighbouring mountains, which at these times are' ilways loaded with vapours, njot only increase the orce of the wind, but alter its direction in such a- Banner, that no two blasts follow each other from the ime quarter ; and the nearer the shore, the more their fects are felt. Great numbers of the natives continued I visit the encampment, particularly while the crew rere melting some blubber. No Greenlander ever Itemed to be more fond of train oil. They relished he very skimmings of the kettle, and dregs of the sks; but a little of the pure stinking oil seemed to a most delicious feast. Among the most remarkable particulars of the na^ Dral history of this place, which are copiously described fMr. Anderson, we must not omit to take notice of lie striking contrast, which the face of the country IFords to that of Van Diemen's Land. — It is uncom- only mountainous, rising imniediately from the sea jito large hills with blunted tops. At considerable dis- nces are v allies, or rather impressions on the sides of hills, which are not deep, each terminating to- ardsthe sea in a small cove, with a pebbly or sandy ach; behind which are small flats, where the na- jres generally build their huts, at the same time koling thehr canoes up the beaches. This situation [the more convenient, as in every cove a brook of water empties itself into the sea. The hills are fe continued forest of lofty trees, flourishing with rigour almost superior to any thing that imagination conceive, and affording an august prospect to ose who are delighted with the grand and beautiful brks of nature. [The agreeable temperature of the climate, no doubt, Dtributes much to this uncommon strength in vege- Tt2 tationj S32 CAPTAIV COOK $ tation ; for at this time, though answering to our month of August, the weather was never disagreeably warm ; nor did it raise the thermometer higher than 66 deg. The winter, also, seems equally mild with re. spect to cold : for in June 1773, which corresponds to our December, the mercury never fell lower than 48 degrees; and the trees at that time, retained theirj verdure, as if in the summer season ; so that, in Mr. Anderson's opinion, their foliage is never shed, til pushed off with the succeeding leaves in spring, fi short, the only obstacle to this being one of the finesi countries upon earth, is its hilliness ; which, allowin its woods to be cleared away, vould leave it less pn per for pasturage than flat land ; and still more im * proper for cultivation, which could ne;ver be effecte by the plough. Among the plants, one deserves particular notice, ai the natives make their garments of it, and it produo a fine silky flax, superior in appearance to any thin[ we have, and probably as strong. It grows in bunchc or tufts, with sedge-like leaves, bearing, on a Iodj stalk, yellowish flowers, which are succeeded by long roundish pod> filled with very thin shining blaci seeds. — Another plant, which bears a red berry, which is much like the supplejack, growing about thi trees, stretching from one to another, in such a mai ner, as to render the woods wholly impassable. Among the birds are several sorts of cuckoos, one which is not larger than a sparrow, of a splendid gre cast aboyep and elegantly varied with waves of goldei green, brown and white colours below. Another kinj is of a black colour, with a greenish cast, which is markable for having a tuft of white curled feathei hanging under the throat. This tuft of feathers resei bled the white flowers used as ornaments in the ears Otaheite, and called Poowa, whence our sailorscalli this the Poy Bird. There is also a small greenish bin whieh is almost the only musical one here, but is suf (cient to fill the woods with a melody, that is not on! sweety but so varied, that one would imagine he vi sunrpunded by a hundred difltcrent sorts of birds, wl THIRD VOYAGE. 353 Ue itttle warbler is near. Hence it is named tbe I Blocking bird. With respect to quadrupeds, it is remarkable, that |in this extensive land, there is not even the trace of one, except only a few rats, and a sort of fox-dog, which is a domestic animal with the natives. Neither is there any mineral worth notice but a green jasper, or serpent-stone, of which the natives make their tools lind ornaments. Of the natives we can here only observe, that, con- i jtrary to the savages of Van Diemen's Land, they shew Lmuch ingenuity, both in invention and execution^ iS any uncivilized nations under similar circumstances; {or, without the use of anyjnetal tools, they make every thing by which they procure their subsistence, Iclothing, and warlike-weapons, with a degree of.neat- Iness, strength and convenience for accomplishing their Kveral purposes. Their chief mechanical tool is formed Icxactly after the manner of our adzes ; and is made, lis are also the chissel and gouge, of the green serpent- Istone already mentioned. But their master-piece seems [to be carving. The heads Of their canoes are some- Itimes ornamented with it, in such a manner, as not ■only shews much design, but also an example of great llabour and patience in execution. Their cordage for lishing-lines is equal in strength and evenness, to ours, land their nets not at all infenor. But what must cost Ithem the greatest labour, is in making of the tools we ihave mentioned : for the stone is exceedingly hard, land the only method of fashioning it, is by rubbing iqne stone upon another. Their substitute for a knife lisa shell, a bit of flint, or jasper. And, as an augur, Ito bore with, they fix a shark's tooth in the end of a limall piece of wood. It is true, they have a small aw, made with some jagged fishes' teeth, fixed on the |convex edge of a piece of wood nicely carved. But ^is, they say, is only used to cut up the bodies of their pnetnies, whom they kill in battle. From this country. Captain Cook, at the request of )mai, and with their own and relations consent, took ro young Zealanders. On the 25th of February, the Captains 334 CAPTAIN COOK S Captains Cook and Clerk left Queen Charlotrc's Sound ; and on the 29th of March following, canic within sight of the island of Mangea. During Captain Cook's passage to the island of Man- gca, the two adventurers from New Zealand, repented heartily of the step they had taken, immediately atfcr they had lost sight of their own country, the sea sick- ness they experienced giving a turn to their reflections. All the soothing encouragement that could be thought of availed but little. They wept both in puialic and private; and made their lamentations in a kind of song, which, as far as the meaning of the word could be understood, was expressive of the praises of their own country and people, from which they were to be separated for ever. Thus they Continued for wmv days, till their sea-sickness wore ofF,^ and the tumult of their mind began to subside. Then these fits of la- mentation became less and less frequent, and at length entirely ceiised. Their native country and their friends, were, by degrees, forgotten; and they appeared to be as firmly attached to their new acquaintances, as if they had been born among them. The island of Mangea, (which is the name the a-i tives gave it) lies in the latitude of 21 deg. 57 min. S. and 201 deg. 53 min. £.; Capt. Cook pronounces it from its exterior appearance, to be a very fine island, capable of supplying all their wants ; and he computes it to be about five leagues in circuit. But he found it impossible either to land here, or to find any anchor- age for his ships; such part of the coast as fell under his observation being guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the outside of which the sea is of an unfathonnable depth; and a great surf broke with violence against the shore or against the reef that surrounded it. I Early in the morning of the 28th of F^b. several ofj the natives were perceived upon a sandy beach, all arm-r ed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with signs of threatening, or as others inter-j preted the attitude, with invitations to land. . Most of them were naked, except having a sort of girdle, which I beingf THIRD VOYAGE. 335 Ving brought up between the thighs, covered that part of the body. But some of them had pieces of cloth of different colours, vy^hite, striped, or chequered ; thrown about their shoulder : and almost all of them I had a kind of white turban ; and some others, a sort I of high conical cap. They were of a tawny colour; land in general of a middling stature, but robust, and linclined to corpulence. At this time, a small canoe was launched In a great Iburry from the farther tnd of the beach; and, a man getting into it, put oflF, as with a view to reach thr ihip. On this, the captain brought to, that he might receive the visit; but the man's resolution failing, he Loon returned towardg the beach, where after some I'lme, another man joined him in the canoe; and then they both paddled towards the ship. They stopt short, however, as if" afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Otaheitean language, in some measure quieted their apprehensions. They then came near enough to take some beads and nails, which were jtied to a piece of wood, and thrown into the canoe. Ilhey seemed afraid to touch these things, and put the ipiece of wood aside, without untying them. This, Ihowever, might arise from superstition ; for Omai Lid, that when they saw us offering them presents, Ithey asked something for their EATOOA, or God. iHe also, perhaps improperly, put the que&<>ion to llhem, whether they ever eat human flesh ? which they answered in the negative, with a mixture of indigna- iion and abhorrence. One of them, whose name was lourooa, being asked how he came by a scar in his wehead, answered, that it was in consequence of a voundhehad got in Bghting with the people of an Island, which lies to the North-Eastward, who some- limes came to invade them. They afterwards took old of a rope. Still, however, they would not ven- ore on board ; but told Omai, that their countrymen od given them this caution, at the same timQ direct- Dgthem to inquire whence the ship came, and the K of the captain. Mourooa S36 CAPTAIN COOK S Moufooa was iu.':ty, but not veryt;;!; hisfcatureji were agreeable, and his disDosition seemingly no)e$t{ 80; for he made scvrra' droll gesticulations, which in. dicated both good nature dnd a share of humour. He also made others, which seemed of a serious kind, and repeated some words with a devout zit, before he venJ tured to lay hold of the rope ; which was probably to recommend himself to the protection of some Divinity.] His colour was nearly of the same cast with that com.) .lion to the more southern Europeans. The other watl not so handsome. Both of them had strong straigtitl hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of tbel head with a bit of cloth. They wore girdles, whichi were a substance made from the Morus papyriftra, in the same manner as at the other islands in this ocean.] 'It was glazed like the sort used by the natives of thel Friendly Islands ; but the cloth on their heads was! white, like that which was found at Otaheite. Tlieyl had on ^ kind of sandals made of a grassy substance/ interwoven, and probably intended to defend their fee^ against the rough coral rock. Their beards were lonj^: and the inside of their arms, froim the shoulders to the elbow, and some other parts were punctured or tatooedj after the manner of the natives of almost all the othcj islands in the South Sea. The lobe of the ears wa pierced, or rather slit, and to such a length, that one of theifv stuck there a knife and some beads which had been given him ; and the same person had two polisheij pearl shells, and a bunch of human hair, looseif twisted, hanging round his neck. The canoe they cam^ in was not ^bove ten feet long, and very narrow, but both strong and neatly made. The forepart had aflaj board fastened over it, and projecting out to prevenj the sea getting in on plunging. About ten o'clock the captain went in a boat t^ feound the shore : he had no sooner put off, than the tv men in the canoe paddled toward the boat, and having come alongside, Mourooa stepped into her, withottj being asked, and without a moment's hesitation. 1 . Wbili THIRD VOYAGE. 337 While thus employed in endeavouring'to land (which was found impossible, unless at the risk of having the boat filled with water, or even staved to pieces) ffreat Lumbers of the natives flocked down to the beacn, all irmed as above mentioned. Mourooa, probably think- ing that this warlike appearance prevented their land- ing, ordered them to retire. As many of them com- jplied^ he was judged to be a person of some conse- jquence. So great was the curiosity of several, that Ithey swam to the boat, and came on board without Ireserve. It was even difficult to keep them out, and more difficult to prevent their carrying off" every [thing upon which they could lay their hands. At |length, when they perceived the boat returning to the liip, they all jumped out, except Mcarooa. He, lious,h not without evident signs of fear, kept \m flace, and went on board the ship. The cattle, and other objects, did not strike him with • much surprise as one might have expected. But, in ct, he seemed very uneasy ; and as the ship, on his etting* on board, happened to be standing off shore, lis circumstance made him the more so. After a short ay, the captain ordered a boat to carry him in towards Q(l. As soon as he got out of the cabin, he stumbled ler one of the goats. His curiosity now overcoming ^ fear, he stopt, looked at it, and asked Omai, What this was .^ The boat having conveyed bim pretty av the sui'f, he leaped into the sea, and swam ashore. h had no sooner landed, than the multitude of his [intrymen gathered round him, as ii' eager to learn he had seen. As soon as the boat returned, the ptain made sail from the land to the Northward. The tives of Mangea, as do all the New Zealanders, salute igersby joining noses; adding, however, the addi- Jnal ceremony ot taking the hand of the person to iiom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it, with a ^^ree of force, upon their noses and moutns. Oil the 1st of April, Captain Cook came in sight of I island, nearly of the same appearanc e and extent Mano^ea ; and, at the sanie time,(»nother island, but 8 XJ u much 338 CAPTAIN cook's touch smaller, was seen right a-head. The first, % the^ afterwards learned from thfe hativies, WIBis cftillM by thej Wateeoo. It lies in the lat. of ^0 dte^. 1 ttt. S. an^ in the fong. 201 dfe^. 45 miti. E. atid a^fcured tb a bfeautiful spot, with a* siwfac^. composed Of hills an plains, and coveted with verdure oi ttiaiiy hues. Tl next day, t\vo armed boats W6re iseiit'6Ut, to look % anchoring ground and a landing platcfe. In the meai time the natives camie off in canoes, to visit the tm ships, and to b6 quitfe ft-efe from the Apprfehensiohst. had been so visible in the inhabitant* of Matigea. Pre] sents were r^ciproctklly givien and recteived. In one these visits, the natives, as they drew near the ships, rej cited some words in concert, by way of choms, oneoj their nuniber first standing up, and giving the word! fore each repl;tition. When they had fi^nished their so lemn chant, they came along side and asked for i Chief. After giving some priesents, they were conducte into the cabin, and to omer parts of the ship. Son objects seemed to strike them with a degree of surprisel but nothing fixed their attention for a moment. The! were afraid to come near the cows and horsies ; liordii they form the least concieption of thteir nature. Bh the sheep and goats did not sui'pass the limits of i\ ideas ; for they gave us to understand, that theyknie^ them to be birds. It will appear rather incredibw that human ignoi'ance could ev^r make so strange { hiistake ; there not being the most distant likeness! tween a sheep or a goat, and any winged animiil. these people seemed to know nothing of the existen(| pf any other land-animals, besidtes hog-s, dogs, and bir The sheep and goats, they coald see, were very dil rent cf e^tures from the tvvH) first, and therefore thej ferred, th,4t they must belong to the latt(grt;lass, in wnic they knew there is a considerable variety of species] The people in these canoes differed little from the i tives oi Mangea. Ornaments,composed of asortofgrai stained Widi red, and strung with berries of the nic ' shade, were worn about their necks. Their eai-swej liored, but not slif ; and tfiey were putrctured upon tl| • - ' lea THIRB VOYAGB. 339 , from the knee to the heel, which made themap- 1? as if they wore a kind of boots. Lieutenant Gore, with the two boats, returned in tliJ? afternoon, having found the same obstructions both to lidding mid anchoring, which they had found atMc^n- 1^ !Qut 9» the natives seemed very friendly, and to ms&^s a degree of disappointment, when they sawtlie 1^$' crews f jiil in their attenapt to land, Mr. Gore was opipipn, that by means ofOmai, who could best qx- iathjerequest,uiey mi^ht be prevailed upon to bring Uj^ th^ boats beyond tne surf, such articles as were ^^nted, in particular the stems of plantain-tree^l hich were good food for the cattle. Accordingly, about ten the next morning, Mr. Gore )84ispatcbed with three boats, to try the experiment* wo of the natives, who had been on board, accompa- him ; and Omai went as interpreter. In order to. rve X\\&\v motions, and to be ready to give them il^a^ista^ce-asthey might want, Captain Cook kept mttv the shore as was prudent. He was sensible, wever» that the reef wau as effectual a barrier ber '^^n him and his friends who had landed,and put then^^ much beyond his protection, as if half the circumfer- e of the globe had intervened. But the islanders, it probable, did not know this so well as he did. In mean tin^;^, the occasional visits of the natives on the ships, served to lessen his solicitude for his i(i$ on shore. At length, a little before suurset, ht the satisfaction of seeing the boats put oil. When ly g^ot on boaixl, he found that Mr. Gore, Omai, Mr. i^rson, and Mr. Burney, were the only persons had landed. Mr. Anderson's narrative of the tions of the day being extremely interesting, w^ 1 give it in his own words. "We row^d," says Mr. 4-nderson, *< towards a small idj; hftachy ^ifvd catme to an anchor within an hundred of the r^Qit whi^iiQxtends about p far, pr alittlit er from t^e shpire. Se^^ra) pf the Dat^v^t swam l^ringing ^QcoariMltsi; ^pd Oiu^i^i, with their coun*. ^ whim wft M mt^ y^ i^thi^ ^t^, madi^ U u 2 ih«m 1 i 340 CAPTAIN COOK'S them sensible of our wish to land. Soon after, two caJ noes came off; and to create a greater confidence iu the islr.nders, we determined to go unarmed, andtol run the hazard of being treated well or ill. " Our conductors, watching attentively the motion of the surf, landed Mr. Bumey and myself, who wer^. in the first canoe, safely upon the reef. An islandeij took hold of each of us, obviously with the intention I. support us in walking over the rugged rock, to the beach, where several of the others met us, holding thd green boughs of a species of Mimosa in their hands and saluted us by joining their noses to ours. Mr. 6op and Omai were landed from the second canoe. " A great croud flocked with eager curiosity to loo( . at us; and would have prevented our proceeding, ha not some who seemed to have authority, dealt blows, with little distinction, among them, to keep them oi We were then led up an avenue of cocoa palms ; an(| soon came to a number of men, arranged in tworowsj and armed with clubs, which they held on their should] ers, much in the same manner as we rest a muskeg Afti^r walking a little way among these, wefoondi pei*son, who seemed a Chief, sitting oUvthegroun cross-legged, cooling himself with a sort of triani gular fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm witi a polished handle of black wood, fixed to one cornei| In his ears were large bunches of beautiful red feather which pointed forward. But he had no other mar or ornament, to distinguish him from the rest of tb people ; though they all obeyed* liim with the greate alacrity. He either naturally had, or at this time] on, a serious, but not a severe countenance; and were desired to salute him as he sat, by some peopll who seemed of consequence. ^* We proceeded still amongst the men armed wit| clubs, and came to a second Chief, who sat faiinin himself, and ornamented as the first. He was remafl^ able for his size, and uncommon corpulence, though i appearance not above thirty. In the same manner, ■> wei'e conducted tq a third Chief, who seemed okler thai THIRD VOYAGE. 341 (he two former, and though not so fat as the second, fas of a large size. He also was sitting and adorned with red feathers ; and after saluting him as we had done the others, he desired us both to sit down, which we were very willing to do, being pretty well ftitigued with walking up and down, and with the ex- cessive heat we felt, amongst the vast crowd that sur- ^inded us. « In a few minutes, the people were ordered to se- parate ] and we saw, at liie distance of 30 yards, about 20 young women, ornamented as the chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a slow and serious air, sung by them all. We got m, and went forward to see them ; they continued ieir dance, without paying the least attention to us. They seemed to be directed by a man who served as a jrompter, and mentioned each motion they were to make*!^ But they never ehang-ed the spot, as we do in dancing, and though their feet were not at rest, this exercise consisted more in moving their fingers very nimbly, at the same time holding their hands in a prone position near the face, and now and then also clapping them together. Their motions and song were perform- ed in such exact concert, that it should seem they had been taught with great care ; and probably they wei^ lelected for this ceremony, as few of those whom we aw in the crowd equalled ^hem in beauty. In general they were rather stout than slender, with black hair lowing in ringlets down the neck, and an olive com- plexion. Their features were rather fuller than that iwe allow to perfect beauties, and much alike ; but their lyes were of a deep black, and each countenance ex- ressed a degree of complacency and modest}' , peculiar the sex in every part of the world ; but perhaps more nspicuous here, where nature presented us with her lUctions in the fullest perfection, unbiassed by sen- lent in custom, or imrestraiued in manner by art. heir shape a^ri limbs were elegantly formed. "This dance was not finished, when we heard a ise, as if some horses had been galloping towards us^ ■ * 1 ^J j ; . Jit ■ ' * i 1 ■ '. 1 '■ 1 ' ' 1 •V. Q^ ; ^nd qn looking a.sicle, we siaw tK«4l«0ple anud) with ckib(4, who had been desii*ed, as we sup|)08e, to •ntevtoiu m with the sight of their mannevof fig>htin^. Thisi they hqw did, pne party pursuing another, ^fh «ed. ** As we supposed tha cepeii^iiy of being introdvK^I to the chiefs was now at an end» we begaa to Ioe4 about for Mr. Gore and Omai ; and, though the croiwii would h^^rdly suilfep us to move, we at leagth found ihem coming up, ^ much incoraoioded by the peopj^ an yve hftd beeuy and inti^oduced in the same ixiann«r| |p the three chiefs. Each of these e^tpected a pveseM; Q^d Ml!; Gcore gave tliem such things as he hadbroughtl with him frpm the diip, for that purpose. After this, making use of Omai as his interpreter, he informed ehicfs with what intention we had come ashore ; h was given to understand, that he must wait till the ne: d^y, and then he should have what was wanted, *< They now seeuied to take some pains to sepavai ns from each other ; and every one of us had his wil to surround and gaze ?tt him. For my part, I was, one time, above an hour apart from my friends; ai when I told the chief with whom I sat, that I wanted speak to Omai, ho peremptorily refused my request At the same time, I found the people began to st^l jteveral trifling things which I had in my pocket; an when I complained to the chief of this treatment, jnstifled it. ^* From the ahove circumstances, I now eatertaini ^pprehensioiks that they had a design to detain Q.mong them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of disposition so savage, as to make us anxious for thi iiafety of our persons; but it was nevertheless, vexing think, we had hazarded being detained by their cuii sity. In this situation, I asked for something to eat and they readily^brought me some cocoarnuts, brea< fruit, and a sort. of sour pudding, which waspresei by a woman. And, on my complaining much of beat^ occasioned by the crowd, the cliief himself con descew' Tlttce «f ^) whtt;h b^ bMl tovmd hit; waist. <' Ml*. Bwriey happening to come to the p^fite whtru I was, I ititefttifoned my suspicions to him ; and to pilt It to thfe tfe9t» whether they were well founded^ we at- tetoptfed to ^t to the beach. But we were (Stopped flien atefttft half Way, by some men, wht) told us we 1^ go hack to the place We had left. On cominj^ «), Wt& fftrnttd Omai enteilaining' the same appi-ehen"^ ^Dtis, but h6 had, as he fancied, an additional reason Iff bmn^ afraid ; for he had observed, that they had ^^ a bote i** thre g^'ound for an oven, whidi they were fceatin^ < »^:id he tciould assign ho Other reason for tliis^ [Uan till ' '.iifeant to roasit and eat tas, as is practised ktlBe 4««5i .alawders. Nay, we went so far as to lijkthe (dfttfeStit^n 5 at which thfey were greatly surprised, lukife* in 1*tllrti, whether it "Was a custom with us 1 m. Btfttrtfey and I -m^e rather angry that they should l^thus siidp^^dtiEsd l>y hifii; there havings as yet, been app6araM&j^ in th^it ootidufct ticywards us, of theit ng tapniblfe idf s^h btutidity. « Iti this manner Wfe were detained the freattst part theday/beitig som^l^m^s together, and sometimeSt iptfrdlted ; 1)M ailWaiys m a crowd ; who, not satisfied (th gazing -kt U&, frequisntly desired us to nncovef irte idf oar skin ; the sight of which genei*ally pi-o* laced a murmur of admiration. At the same time they idaotomittil^e opportunities of rifling our pockets. id at last, one of them snatched a smaU bayonet from r. Gore, wMch hmig in a sheath by his side. Thi^ representsed to the chief, who pi-ietended to send (e persons in search of it. But, in all probability, countenanced i^ theft; for, soon after, Omai had |er stden from his side, in the same manner, m he did iiet miss it immediately. " Whethe* thfey observed any signs of uneasiness us> (A' that thiey voluntarily repeated their emblems friendship, when we expressed a desire to go, I cannot 11; but, at this time, they brought some green boughs, idsticking their ends ii> the ground, they desired we would T ii - 344 CAPTAIN cook's would hold them as we sat. Upon my urgfingf our bu.| siness a^ain, they g^ave us to understand, that we musi stay and eat with them ; and a pig that we saw, soor after lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai*s apprehensions of bein^pJ into it himself; and made us think it was intended foil our repast. .The Chief also promised to send some i pie to procure provision for the cattle ; but it was noq till late in the afternoon, that we saw them return witii a few plantain-trees, which they carried to our boat " In the mean time, Mr. Bumey and I attempt . again to go to the beach ; but when we arrived, foand ourselves watched by the people, who seemed to havj been planted there for that purpose : for, when I trie to wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of m ' clothes, and dragged me back. I picked up somesmaj pieces of coral, M^ich they required me to throw do\ again ; and on my refusal they made no scruple to takJ them forcibly from me. I had gathered some smaU plants ; but these also I could not be permitted to retain] and they took a fan from Mr. Bumey, which he had re ceived as a present on coming ashore. Omai said, wj had done wrong in taking up any thing; for it was no the custom here to perniit freeaoins of that kind i strangers, till they had, in some measure, naturaliz them to the country, by entertaining them withfestivi] ty two or three days. " Finding that the only method of procuring bet treatment was to yield implicit obedience to their will we went up again to the place we had left; and the] now promised, that we should haye a canoe to carry i ofl' to our boats, after we had eaten of a repast whie had been prepared for us. Accordingly, the secont Chief before mentioned^ having seated mmself upon low broad stool of blackish hard wood, tolerably polislj ed, and directing the multitude to make a pretty larg ring, made us sit down by hijm. A considerable w ber of cocoa-nuts were brought ; and, shortly j^fter, Jong green basket, with a sutiicieut quantity of bakt^ pluuiaiij 4. THIRD VOYAGE. 345 plaiitains to have served a dozen persons. 4 piece of (he youn^ ho^ that had been dressed, was then set be- IJbre each of us, of which we were desired to eat. Our ipetites, however, had failed, from the fatigue of the ; and though we did eat a little to please th^m, it without satisfaction to ourselves. " It heing now near sun-set, we told them it was Itiiae to go on board. This they allowed ; and sent iwato the beach the remainder of the victuals that {kid been dressed, to be carried with us to the ship. We nd a canoe ready to put us off to our boats ; which natives did with the same cautioti as when we land- They put us on board the boats, with the cocoa- its, plantains, and other provisions, which they had lUffht : and we rowed to the ships, very well plesised it we had at last got out of the hands of our trouble- le masters. It was mentioned, that Omai was sent upon this en- ition ; and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore's inter-. iter, was not the only service he perfonned this day. :e was asked by the natives a great many questions ceming our people, our ships, and our country, the sorts of arms we used ; and, according to the ount he gave • Captain Cook, his answers were a little upon the marvellous. Our country, he told im, had ships as large as their islands ; on board ch were instruments of war (describing our guns) sach dimensions, that several people might sit with- tiiem; and thiat one of them was sufficient to crush whole island at one shot. This led them to ask it sort of guns were on board Captain Cook's ships. bsaid, that though they were but small in comparison those he had described, yet, with such as they e, they could with the greatest ease, and at the ice the ships were from the shore, destroy the ind, and kill every soul in it. They then inquired by i means this could be done, and Omai explained as well as h^ could. He happened luckily to have ' w cartridges in his pocket. These he produced : balis, andihe gunpowder thlit wa;s to set them in S X X ' motion^ d46 CAPTAIN CM>K*S motion, were sitbmittecl to inspection, and to supply I the defectH of his descriptiofi, an appeal vraa made to the seiiM^ of the spectators. The multitude had beenl formed, as before-mentioned, into a circle. This fur- nished Omai with a convenient stage foi'his exhibition.! In the centre of this, tlie small quantity of ^unuowderl collected from his cartridg'es, was properly aisposedl upon the ground, and set on fire by a nit of bumin?! wood from the o^ en. The sudden blast, and load rc-l |K)i*t, the mingled flame and smoak that instantly suc-l ceeded, filled the whole assembly with astonishnientj They no longer doubted the tremendous power of oi weapons, and gave full credit to all Omai had said. ' If it had not been for the tennbie idea they conceirj * ed of the ships* guns, fi'om this {specimen of theirmc of operation, it was thought they would have detain ed the gentlemen all night. For Omai assured th that if he and his companions did not retuiii on be the same day, they might expect that the captain w( tire upon the islai . And astlie ships stood in the land in the evening, than they had done any tii before, of which they were observed to take great no tice, they probably thought this formidable attack^ meditating ; and therefore they sufiered their guastsl depart ; in the expectation, however, of seeing the agttin on shore the next morning. But Capt. Cook too sensible of the risk they had already run, to thii of repeating the experiment. The island, thougli never before visited by Earof ans, bad actually otber strangei's residing in it. Oma when he landed with Mr. Gore, found amongst opowd thi'ee of his own €ounti'3rmeD, nativesof tke i ciety Islands, at the distance of about UQO leagues fn those islands, an immense unknown ^ocean interren sng, with such wretched i^^-boatsastlieiriiilhttbi are known to mak« use of, and ifit oniy for a where sight i^i land is scarcely ever lost : such a me vj ing, at sudh a place, so aiocidentally vi^ted by Cipt GcK/k'f^ people, may Well be looked upon as one thoiiie imex^eoted mtuationswith which the writers feigiK THZED VOYAGB. 347 iclgned adventiu'es love to sui'pi'iae their readers, an4 I whichy when they really happen in oouimon liie^ de* 1 0ve to be recorded for their siu^ulurity. It may be imagined, with what surprize and suti»fa( - j lion Omai and his countryinen engaged in com'4>rsation . Their story is ve?ry afife<'.ting. About^t wenty jMirsous, I ^ both sexes, had embarked on lx)ar(la canoe at Ota- |keite» to cross over tothe neighbouring island Ulietea. I A. violent coutmry wind arising* they could neither I {each the latter, noi* g>et b«4i:k to tlie former. Their intended passage being a very shoiloue, their stock of provisions was scanty, 9n\d soon exhausted. The hard- Uips they suffered, wliijw driven by the storm they koew not whitlier, are not to be conceived. They pas- Ld many days without any thing to eat or drink. Worn out by famine and fatigue, their numbers gra- jioally diminished. Four men only survived, when the lunoe over-set j and then the pei'dition of these seem- UA inevitable, ilowever they kept hanging by its side, lloring some of the last days, till providence brought within sight of the people of tliis island, who im- mediately sent out canoes, and brought them ashore. the four thus saved, one was since dead. The othea* [ibree, who lived to give this account of their most mi- sulous transplantation, spoke highly of the kindtreat- [lueBt they here met with ; and they were so well satis- lied with their pi*esent situation, that they refused the lofier made to t£em at Qmai's i*eque8t, of giving them |i ps^iwige to th^r native islamls. The similarity of its and language had more than naturalized them tlusspot; and the fresh connections they had here led, and which it would have been painud to have bken oji^ ai'ter such « iength of time,' sufficiently ac- ount for this refusal. They had ariived at this island least twelve years ago. " The landing (says Capt. Cook) of our gentlemen on ^' I island, cannot but beoowiidered as a very tbrtunate Circumstance.^ It has proved the means of bringing to knowledge a fact, not only very cmious but very structive." The application of the above narrative H 348 CAPTAIN COOK S is obvious. It will serve to explain, better than a | thousand conjectures of a thousand speculative '•eason- ers, how the detached parts of the eai*th, and in par. ticular, how the islands of the South Sea, may havel been first peopled: especially those that lie remote I from^ any inhabited continent, or h*om each other. Such accident.* as this probably happen frequently in the Pacific Ocean. In 1696, two canoes, having onl board thirty persons of both sexes, were dnven byl violent contrary winds, to the isle of Samal, one ofthel Phillippines, after being tossed about at sea 70 days, andl having performed a voyage, from an island called byl them Amorsot, 300 leagues to the east of SamalJ Five of the number died of the hardships they suffered] According to Omai*s account of what he learned in conversation with his countrymen, the manners o| those islandei's, their method of treating strangers^aiKi their general habits of life, are much like those prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring isles. Theiil religious ceremonies and opinions are also nearly tha same. From every circumstance, indeed, it is indw bitable, that the natives of Wateeoo sprang, originallyj from the same stock, which has spread itself so wonder fully all over the immense extent of the South One vi^ould suppose, however, that they put in theij claim to a more illustrious extraction : lor Omai saio that they dignified their island with the appellation i Wenooa no te Eatooa, that is, a land of gods ; esteen ing themselves a sort of Divinities, and possessed witi the spirit of Eatooa. This wild enthusiatic notion Oi seemed to approve of ; observing, that there were in stances of its being entertained at Otaheite ; but tha it was universally prevaleht among the inhabitants i Maraia, or Osnabiirgh Island. Capt. Cook left Wateeoo in the morning of the of April, steering for the other island, which, before mentioned, he had discovered in its vicinity. 1 THIRD VOYAOS. 849 CHAP. 11, hefreshments obtained at Wenooa-ette — Singularity in ike natives of Hervey's Island. — Rick svhmarine Qrollo at Palmerston's Island. — Arrival at the friendly Islands. — Amiable character of the Natives ^Descriptimi of their Persons, — Transactions with tk Natives.- — Captain Clerkes expedient to prevent their Depredations. — Opinions of the Ishnders of a Volcano — Different entertainments exhibited by the English and Natives — Curious mode of shaving — Visit of PonlahOf King of the Friendly Islands.-^- Pmdaho's inanimate Viceroy. — Offering to their Deity to deprecate Death, — Departure from the Friendly hlands/^'^'^^ WS island, at which they arrived the next mom- ing, was uninhabited; but the natives of Wa- eeoo called it Wenooa-ette, or Otakootaia. Here they ibtained a supply of cocoa-nuts for themselves ; and or their cattle some grass, and a quantity of the leaves ii'i branches of young cocoa-trees, and of the Wharra e,~a3 it is called at Otaheite, the Pandanus of the st-Indies. This latter being of a soft, spungy, juicy ature, the cattle eat it very well, when cut into small ces; so that it may be literally said, that they were upon billet wood. On the 6th of April, Capt. Cook arrived at Her- ley's Island, which he had discovered in 1773, and pich he was now surprized to find inhabited. In his btercoui'se with the natives, he obsened that not one bftbem had adopted the mode of ornament, so general^ prevalent among the natives of this ocean, of punc- ■ing, or tatooing heir bodies ; although in other re- acts he had the most unequivocal proofs of their be- of the same common race. Being disappointed in be hopes of landing on this island, and the unfavour- Me winds, &c. having unavoidably retarded his pro- gress 350 CXVTAXS COOIL^S gress so much, that it was impossible to think of doiuo any thing this year, in the high latitudes of the Northl ei*n Hemisphere, Captain Cook now thought it necesj sary to bear away for the Friendly Islands. But hj first resolved to touch at Palmerston's Island, Tvhidi j Ikftd discovered in 1774, and where he arrived onthl 4th t>f Apiil. This island consists of a group of abou] ten small umnhabited ialots, lying in a circular dire tion, and connected togethei' by a reef of coral rocL While the captain employed his boats here to pro ^ure refrefdnaents for his crew, he himself explore •whatever was curious in the externalappeamnce of thij island, which he observed to be scarcely a mile in cin cuit, and not above tliree feet higher than the level ( tiie sea. It appeared to be entirely composed of acoi-a sandj with a small mixture of blackish mould, produce from rotten vegetables. Notwithstanding this poj soil, it is covered with a variety of trees and buslie At one part of the reef, which looks into, or boim the lake within, there was a large be J of coral, almo evi&n with the surface, which atibrded, perhaps, on of the most enchanting prospects that nature has i . where produced. Its base was fixed to the shore, reached so far in, t^t it coukl not be seen ; so that I seemed to be suspended in the water, which deepeBfl j$o suddenly, that at the distance of a few yards, tli might be seven oj* eight fathoms. The sea w^s, at 1 tinoe, ^uite unruMed ; and the sim shining bright, ej sed the various sorts of coral in the most beautiiiili ilerj some parts bi'aiiching into the waiter with gie hiKuriauce, others lying collected in round balls, am)j various other figures ; all which were greatly iieig^ht* ed by spaiLg^les of the richest coloi»rs,:that glowed fro u nuiiuber of large iclaiiis.> which were •every where ii terit^ertf ed. Bui tlie appearance of tliese was still i rior to that of the xuidtiiude of iifibes, tliat glided gen^ 4iloi]^g« seemingdy with the moet perfect isecunty. ^ calo9iU*s of tlite diiierent £oi*ls were the most beaiiT that can be imagined; tlie yellow^ ^ue, red,black, ; far exceeding any idiiing that art caa^ produce. Ti" varifl THIRI^ VOYAGE. 351 various forms, also contributed to increace the richness gfthis submarine gro'io, whicU could not be surveyed fithout a pleasing triinj^ort, mixed however, with re- Ipet, that a work so stupendously elegant, should be )ncealed,in a place where mankind coukl seldom have opportunity of rendering the praises justly due to so jhanting a scene. With res:pect to the animal crea- I, the most singular that Capt. Cook observed, were le large eels, beautifully spotted, which when follow- woidd raise themselves out of the water, with an ;a mouth, to bite their pursuers. There was also a rn-spotted fish, about the size of a haddock, so le, that instead of swimming away, it would remain [cd, and gaze at them. Had Ihey been in absolute rant, a suificient supply might have been had ; for ids of clams already mentioned, stuck upon the ef, some of which weighed two or three pounds. In the night between the 24th and 25th, Captain bok passed Savage Island, which he had likewise dis- Dvered in 1774; and on the 28th, he got sight of some the Friendly Islands, It was not, however, till the t of May, that he could come to anchor, at the ind of Aimamooka, where he resumed the very same lion, which he had occupied three years before ; and ttbably, almost in the same place where Tasman, the it discoverer of this, and some of the neighbouring inds, anchored in 1643. The Friendly Islands fonr. a very extensive Archi- lago. The natives reckoned up 150 pf them, making ! of bits of leaves to asceitain their number. But ly sixty-one of these have their proper places and ffies marked in Capt. Cook's chart of the Friendly ands J for he was obliged to leave it to future navi- tors, to introduce into the geography of this part of e South Pacific Ocean, the exact situation and size iflear an hundred others, which he had not an oppor* lity to explore. Among these islands he continued nut two or three months ; during whidi time he red with the natives in the most cordial friendship. le accidental diifiereiLoes, it is true, now and then happened, 352 CAPTATN CdOK'SJ happirtietl, owing" to their propensity, to thieving'. But' these were never attended with any fatal consequence,, : I on the contrary, few on board the ship left their friends here without rea^ret. Nor will this appear wcinderftil I when we learn the amiable character which Captainl Cook has ^iven these people. ** Their countenances (says he) very remarkably ex- press the abundant mildness, or good nature which they possess ; and are entirely free from that savage keenness] which marks nations in a barbarous state. One would] indeed, be apt to fancy, that they had been bred up under the severest restrictions, to acquire an aspect so settled, and such a command of their passions, a., weli as steadiness in their conduct. But they are, at tli . same time, frank, cheerful, and good humoured : tho'l sometimes, in the presence of their chiefs, they put on a degree of gi^vity, and such a serious air, as become^ stiff and awkward, and has an appearance of reserve] " Their peaceable disposition is sufficiently evinced] from the f»*iendly reception all strangers have met witli who have visited them. Instead of offering to attaclj them openly, or clandestinely, as has been the case with most of the inhabitants of these seas, they have nevej appeared, in the smallest degree, hostile ; but, on thJ contraiy, like the most civilized people, have courted an intercourse with their visitors, by barterin , whicM is the only medium that unites all nations in a sort i friendship. Perhaps no nation in the world traffid with more honesty and less distrust ; we could alwayj safely permit them to examine our goods, and to hanf them about, one to another ; and they put the sa confidence in us. If either party repented of tlie bar! gain, the goods were re-exchanged with mutual cunsei and good humour. Upon the whole, they seeiri pos!)<^!j seci of many of the most excellent qualities thatadorj the luunan mind; such as industry, ingenuity, perseve ranee, atiability, and perhaps, other virtues which oiij shoit stay with them might prevent our observing^. " The only defect sullying their character, that wj know of, is a propensity to thieving i to which, THIRB VOYAGE. 35a ifadse 0f aU OSes, and- both sexes addicted^ tc an uncoimiioi^ degree. It should^ however, be aidered, that tl^s exceptionable part of their con- et see(»e4 to exist merely with respect to us -, for in ^r g^eneral inte^pourse with one another^ I had rea- to thinky that thefts do not liappen more frequent^ [(perhaps less so) than in other countries ; the dis- a^t practices (h those worthless individuals are not nposed to authorise any indiscriminate censure on e whole body of the people. Great allowances^ Duld be made for the foibles of these poor natives of Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered the glare of objects, equally new to them as they ere captivating. Stealing, amongst the civilized enlightened nations of the world, may well be sidei-ed ag denoting a character deeply stained with oral turpitiide, with avarice unrestrained by the lowii rules of light, and with profligacy producing tteme mdigence, and neglecting the meaps of re- iving it. But at the Friendly and other islands kich we visited, the thefts so frequently committed the natives, o£ what we had brought along with ^may be fairly traced to h ;ss culpable moti v es. They N»ed to aris^, solely, from an intense curiosity or sirt to possess something which they had not been customed to before, and belonging to a sort of peo- 180 different from themselves. And, perhaps, if it possible, that a set of beings, seemingly as supe- M m our judgment, as we are in theirs, should ap- «• amongst us, it plight l>e doubted, whether our ral regard to justice would be sutficient to re? »m many from fallinginto this error." The natives of the Friendly Islands," says Capt^ ok, " seldoiD exceed the coimnon stature (though have m«^a»ured some who were about six feet ;) 1 ai'f! very piti'ong, and well made ; especially a^ io r limbs. They nre generally broad about ihf^ Iders; and though the muscular disposition of th^ I which seems a consequenpe of much action, ker conveys the a.ppearaiice of strength than' of 1^ Y y _ beauty. U4 CAPTAIN* cook's beauty, there are several to be seen, who are really handsome. Their features are very various; insomucj that it is scarcely possible to fix on any general like] ness, by which to characterize theril, unless it be fulness at the point of the noifeie, Which is veiy con ition. But on the other hand, we ntet with hundred of truly lEui'opeiin faces, and many genuine Roma noses amonffst them. Their eyes and teeth wep good; but tne last neither so remd,rkably white, no J5o well set as is often found among Indian nations| tliough, to balance that, few of them have any im common thickness about the lips, a defect tls frequeJ as the other perfection, " The women are not so much distinguished froi| the men by their features, as by their general for . which is, lor the most part, destitute of that stro fleshy firmness that appears in the latter. Thoug^htll features of some are so delicate, as not only to fl a tme index of their sex, but to lay claim to a coj siderable share of beauty and expression, the iule by no means, so general as in other countries. Bu at the same time, this is frequently the most excej tionable part; for the bodies and limbs of most of tl females are well proportioned ; and some, absoliitef perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the md iemtirkable distinction in the women, is the uncoil mon smallness and delicacy of their fingers, whij may be put in competition with the finest in Euro/ « Their general colour is a cast deeper than t| bopper brown ; but several of the men and woml have' a trite olive compiexion ; and some of the \i are even a grieat deal fairer; which is pixjbably tj effect of being less exposed to the sun; as ateudenj to corpuletice, in a few of the principal peo|)[ ^eems to bd the consequence of a more indc'ent lij li is also among the last, that a soft clea,rskinwinC frequently observed. Amongst the bulk dfilu pe^w the skin is, most commonly, of a dull hue, willi m degree of roughness, especially the parts that are n * . * ^ covere Timtp. VOYAGE. 355 leaveved; which^ ^perhups, ma/ be occasioned by Ijomp cutaneous disease. We saw a man and a boy litHapaee, and a child at Annamooka, perfectly Ifhite. Such have been fouiji amongst all black na- Itions; but, I apprehend* that their colour israthet L disease, than a najiural phaenomenon." I Captain Coo^ first went on shore at Annamooka, |t|ie chief of which islc^nd, Toubou, conducted him liiid'Oinai to his house, situated on a pleasant spot, in lie centre of his . plantation. A fine grass-plat sur- |(oua V |:r;»^i; 't . '. 'i PI llll If' '1^" ' '1, fir':': 1 !»^^ ;'ilf HI 1 fi m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // // ^ ^ ^ 1.0 I.I 1^12.8 mm m22 140 125 2.0 l^S 11:25 |U |,.6 ^ 6" ^ i?^ 4^ -^ > /. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET W5P^T^il,^'.Y. I45M ( ; W» ) t73-4S03 ^ \ V ^ :<\^ <^ '"!» ^^- ^^V •^^v Q V/'' i\ '^ ■V 302 CAPTAIN COOKS with lis more for the sake of what we gave him to drinl than for what we set before him to eat ; for he iiaij taken a likings to om* wine, would empty his boiUe .well as most men, and was cheerful over it. But not] withstanding this friendly intercoui'se, Capt. Cookoncf thought proper to put the king, his brother, Feenuu and some otner chiefs, under arrest, till a kid, two tiL key cocks, and some other thingK, that had been stolen were restored. This expedient was successful; aii] though, at first, it made them shy, it did net diminish tl friendship with which they still deported themselvf ^ On the 17th of July, Capt. Cook set sail from Mid dleburgh or Eaoo, which was the last island he visite during his intercourse with the natives of this Archii lago, and with a light breeze at S. E. he now steere for the Society Islands. The time employed amon the natives of the Friendly Islands was not thio^ away. We expended very little of our sea provision subsisting in general, upon the produce of the island while we staid ; and carrying away with us a quantit of provisions sufHcient to last till our arrival at anothil station, where we could depend upon a fresh supplj We were not sorrv, besides, to have an opportunity d bijttering the condition of these good people, by leai ing seveml very useful animals among them ; and, the same time, those designed for iltaheite, receivt fi*esh strength in the pastures of Tongataboo. Uj the whole, therefore, the advantages we received, i touchmg here, were very great ; and we had the ditional satisfaction to reflect, that they were receive without retarding one moment the prosecution of tlj great object of our voyage ; the season for proceedin to the l^orth, being, as has already been observed, h before we took the resolution of bearing away for tl island.v. CHA THIRD VOYAGE. 363 CHAP. III. |[ifa«rfo/' Toohouai discovered-^ Arrival at Olaheite^^ (hnaVs reception- -Interview with Waheladooa, the chief of Tiarahoo — Omais imprudent conduct-—' Girht dressed to brtn^ a present — Omats war canoe -^Otoo^s present and message to the king of Great Britain — Departure from Otaheite, and a visit to Eimeo — Conclusion of the history of Omai, and of the two New Zealand Youths. |N the 9th of August, 1777, Captain Cook disco- vered the small island Toobouai, lying in the lat. [23 deg. 25 min. S. and in 210 de^^. 37 miu. E. long. at as the natives who approached the ships in their noes, could not be persuaded to come on board, the captain had no inducement to land there, he ceeded on his voyage. On the 12th of Aug. he saw Maitea, one of the So«> ety Islands, and soon after Otaheitc. We shall now Ane ourselves chiefly to the reception which Omai et with amongst his countrymen, with some of the remarkable occurrences in Capt. Cook's inter- srse with the friendly natives. When we first came near the island, several canoes \e off to the ship, each conducted by two or three en. But, as they were conunon fellows, Omai took I particular notice of them, nor they of him. They not even seem to perceive, that he was one of eir countrymen, altho* they conversed with him for ne time. At length a chief, whom I had known ifore, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, wha Etnced to be at this corner of the island, and three four more persons, all of whom knew Omai before k embarked with Capt. Furncaux, came on board. |et there was nothing either tender or striking in their etiug. On the contrary, there seemed to be a per- ct indifi^rence on both sides, till Omai, having taken ' Zz2 his S64 CATTAIV COOK*S his brother down into the cabin, he opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave liim a few. This being presently known amongst the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of afrairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would liardly dpeak to Omai | before, now begged that they might be tayos (frieinis) imd exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, | and confirmed it with a present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. But it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but his property, they were in love with. Had he not shewn to them his treasure of red feathers, which is the commodity in greatest estimation at the islands, I question much whetlier they would have be^ stowed even a cocea-nut upon him. Such was OnHii'i reception amongst his coamtrymen. I ovfii, I never ex- pected it would be otherwise ; but stiU I was in hopes, that the valuable cargo of pi^sents, *with which the liberality of his friends in England Ivad loaded hiju, would be the means of raising iwn into consequence,] and of making him respected, and even comled by] the first persons tfaaronghoul; the extent of the Societjl Islands* This could not hut have happened, hud he| conducted himself with any degi^ee of prudence. ButJ instead of it, I am soriy to say, that he paid too littie| regard to the repeated advice of those who wished! well^ and sufiered himself to be duped by every design* ing knave. ' ao) m The in>}>ortant news, of red feathers being on boai'd our ships, liaving b«en conveyed on shore byl Omai\s friends, day had no sooner begun to break neit[ n>orning, tlrm we wei'e surrounded by a multitude c(^Q/oes, crowded wiith (liRople, biingiBg hogs to maiietj At firsr, a quantity di foathens, not greater than wt laight be got from a tom-tlt, would purchase a hog i foifty 01* h% pounds weight. But as almost every hmf ioi ti^ ships W9& possessed of some of this pi*eciuu0 ar-J iifih of trade^ it t«U, in its vaJue> above iive huitfii per cent, before mghi. However^ even then, th^ l^nce W049 much ia oui: fe.voar -, and red i^fitjlisrs cc • • tinued THIRD VOYAGE. 360 et tinaecl to preserve their superiority over every other pommodity. Some of the natives would not pait \rith a lio^) «uiloss they received an axe in exchange ; bnt nails, boadsy and other trinkets, witich, ditnn$: our fomier voyag^es, had so {i^reat a run at this island, were now so much despised, tliat few would deigrn to look at llifcm. I III the morning* o( the 13th, Captain Cook came to anchor in a bay called Oheitepeha. Soon after, Omai*s sister came on board to see him ; and the captain was happy to observe, that, much to the honour of each, iheir meeting was marked with expressions of the most tender affection. After this moving scene, Omai and tlte captain went ashore. Here, the attention of the former was soon drawn to an old woman, the siste^r of his mother. She was already at his feet, andhad be- dewed them plentifully with tears of joy. The captain left him with the old lady, encircled by a nimiber of pple, in order to go and take a view of a house and cross erected by the Siwkniarils. When he returned, he found Omai holding foith lo a large company ; and it was with so&>e difiicidty lie could be got away to ac- company the ca|>tain on board. Capt. Cook, it seems, had learned, fi*om the natives, that two Spani^ sli^s {iK)m Lima had twice put into Oheite;ieha Bay, since last visit in 1774. Tliey had left some hogs, dogs, goats, a bull, antl a ram, on shore. The tirst time they came, they built a house, and left four men b^inA , carrying away four of the natives. Inaboutteti, noaths, the same siiips returned, bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died at Lima. After a shoit stay, they took away their own people, but left the house standing. This was situated at a UMiU distance from the beach. The wooden materials iof which it was composed, seemed to have been brought ready prepared, to set up occasionally : for all the phink» ere uuml)ered. It was divided into two small rooms ; ' in the ioner one, were a bench, a table, a bed- , some old hats, and other trifles, of which tlie Uyq9 se^iaed to be very care^ as also of the house " 'H: I ^0 CAPtAIN COOK*S 1ious3 itself; which had suffered no hurt from the wea- ther, a shed having been built over it. There were scuttles all arotind, which served as air-holes; and per. haps, they were also meant to fire from with muskets, if ever it should have been found neressJtry. At some distance, stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of which was cut, CHRTSTUS VINCENT. And on the perpendicular part was, Carolus III. Imperat. 1774. « . On the other side of the post, Captain Cook took care to pi-eserve the memory of the prior visits of the English, by inscribing, Georgius Tertius Rex, Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1771, & 1777. Near the foot of this cross was the ffrave of the corn* modorc of the two ships, who died here, while they lay in the bay, the iirst time. The Spaniards seem to I have taken great pains to ingratiate themselves with tlie inhabitants, who, on every occasion, mentioned | them with the strongest expressions of esteem audi veneration. The former, however, did not succeed in their attempt to depreciate the character of the English. One of the four persons whom they left behind, and whom the natives called Mateema, made himself very | popular. He took uncommon pains to study their lan^ guage, that he might be enabled to impress their minds I with the most exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spa- nish monarchy, and made them think meanly of the I English. He even went so far as to assure them that we I no longer existed as an independent nation ; that Pre- tane was only a small island which they (the Spaniards)! had entirely destroyed ; and that as for Captain CookJ they had met with him at sea, and with a few shot,| bad sent his ship, with every soul in her, to the bottom. All this, and many other improbable falsehoods, did! ih^ Spaniards make these people believe. But, iff Spaiul THIRD VOYAGE. 3G7 gnain hacl no other views in this expedition, thnn to depreciate the Gnghsh, she had better have kept her ships at home; for Captain Cook's return to the island (wnich in course, was quite unexpected) was considered as a complete refutation of all that Matccma had said, Waheiadooa, the sovereign of Tiaraboo, which was the name of this part of the island, was now absent. This was not the same person, thoutrh of the same name with the chief, whom Captain Cook had seen here during his last voyage; but his brother, a boy about ten yeai's old, who had succeeded on the death of the elder Waheiadooa, about 20 months before, and was now under the tutorage of a chief named Etorea. The celebrated queen Oberea was dead. However, he soon after sent a message to notify his amval, and to desire that the captain would visit him on shore. Accord - iugly Omai and tlie captain prepared to make him a formal visit. On this occasion, Onrai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed himself, not after the E;tiglish fashion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of Tongataboo, I nor in the dress of any country upon earth; but in a strange medley of all that he was possessed of. There I was nothing remarkable in this interview, except the infonnation thatCapt. Cook received, that the Spani- ards, when they visited ihe island, had desired the chiefs not to suner him to enter Oheitepeha Bay, if he should return again, for that the island belonged to them. But the person who addressed me gave this in- formation, that they were so far from pay ing any regard to this request, that he was authorised now to make a formal surrender of the pro\ ince of Tiaraboo to me, pud of every thing in it ; whicli marks very plainly, Ithat these people are no strangers to the policy of uc- Icommodating themselves to present circumstances. At lleugth, the young chief was directed by his attend- lauts to come and embrace me ; and by way of coniirm- lingthis treaty of friendship, we exchanged names. The Icercmony being closed, lie and his friends accom]>anieil le on board to dinuei*. Omai had just prepared a maro, composed of red . . uud i S6d CAPTAIN cook's and yellow feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the kiiijj of the whole island, and considering* where we were, it was, a present of great vahie. I said a!l that I could to persuade him not to produce it now, wishin^y }iim to keep it on board till an opportunity should oftr of presenting it to Otod, with Iiis own hands. Bat he I had too goocl an opinion of the honesty and fidelity of his counti-ymen to take my advice. Nothing woald serve him, but to cany it ashore on this occasion, and i to give it to Waheiadooa, to be by him foi^wairded to Otoo, in order to its being added to tlie royal marc. He thought, by this management, that he should oblige both chiefs; whereas, he highly disobliged the one, whose favour was of the most consequence to him. I without gaining any rewawl from the other: for Wahei- adooa kept the maro himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of feathers ; not the twentieth pait of | what belonged to the magnificent present. On the 24th of August, Capt. Cook left the l»ay ofl Oheitepeha, and in the evening anchored in Matavail Bay, in another jrart of the island, whence he expected his pi'iucipal supply. Here he and Omai had an inter- view with Otoo, the king of the whole island. Oniat| had prepared himself for this ceremony ,by dressing him- self in his very best clothes, and belraved with a greatl deal of modesty. Nevertheless, vei*y little notice was! token of him. Perhaps envy had some share in pro-[ duc'ng this cold reception. He made the chief apre-j sent of a large piece of red feathei's, and about two three yards of gold cloth ; and I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and what ^f as more value than all the other articles, a quantity of re feathers, and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly] IslaiKls. After the hurry of this visit was over, the kiii^, an(i the whole royal family, accompanied us on board, fol-l lowed by several canoes, laden with all kind of proviJ sions> in quantity sufficient to have served the compa«| nies of both ships for a week. Each of the fainil owned^ or pretended to own, a part 5 so that wc hadi preseni THIRD VOYAGE. 3(J0 iHrescnt from every one of them ; and every one of Ithem had a separate present in return from me; which Iwas the g^reat object in view. Soon after, the kim»f'» lnother, who tiad not been present at the first interview, IfAme on board, brin^in^ with her a quantity of pro- iTisioiis and cloth, which slie divided between uu^ and lOmai. For, although he was but little noticed at tii*st, Ibv his countrymen, thev no sooner jjfained the know- lledge of his riches than they beg-an to court his fricnd- Ifhip. T encouraged this as much as I could ; for it was Ijiy wish to fix him with Otoo. As I intenean animals at this island, I thought he |fOuld be able to give some instructions about the ma- i^eiuent of them, and about their use. Besides, I and saw, the farther he Wcvs from his uiitive ilaiid, he would be the better respected. But, unfor- lately, poor Omai rejected my advice, and conducted ^mselt in so ii;ipi*iulcnt a nuinuer, that he soon lost friendship of Otoo, and of every pei-son of note in iheite. He associatetl with none but vagabonds strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him. nd, if I had not interfered, they would not have left Urn a single article worth carrying from the island. This necessarily drew upon him the ill-will of the prin- il chiefs ; who found that they could not procure om any one in the ships, such vali able articles of pre- nts, as Omai had bestowed 01^ the lowest of the peu- e, his companions. Our friend Omai got one good thing at this island, [irthe many good things he gave away. This was a fine double sailing canoe, completely equipped, fit for sea. Some time before, I made up for him, [suit of £nglish colours ; but he thought these too va- able to be used at this time ; and patched up a par- ^ of colours, such as Hag^ and pendants, to the num- r of ten or a dozen, which he spread on different frts of his vessel, all at the same time, and drew to- cher as many people to look at her j as a man of war Hild, dressed, in %v^ European port. These streaniei'S f Omai's were u mixture of English, Fi*encb, Spfeiish, A a a and 1 370 CAPTAIN cook'» and Dntcli, whicli were all the European colours tliat lie had scc^n. \^ hen I was last at this iNland, I f^avetoi Otoo an English jack and pendant, and to Towhaal pendant; uhichl now found they had preserved with the greatest care. Oniai had also provided himself with a ^ood stock { of cloth and cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in y^rtuil plenty, but nmch better at Otahcnte, than at any ofl the Society Islands; insonuich that they are ai'ticks ofl trade. Oiinii wouhl not have behaved so inconsistent-f ly, and so much unlike himself, as he did, in nianyl instances, but for his sister and brother-in-law, wlioj together with a few more of their acouaintance, enJ g;rossed him entirely to themselves, with no other viewl . than to strip him of every thing he had eot. Audi they would, undoubtedly, have succeedea in tlieir ficheme, if I had not put a stop to it in time, by tak- ing the most useful ailicles of his property into my pos« session. But even this would not have saved Oniail from ruin, if 1 had suffered tiiese relations of his to have gone with, or to have followed us to his intendc place of settlement, Hualieine. This they had intend^ ed; but I disappoinU^d their farther views of plunderi by forbidding them to shew themselves in that island] while I reuiained there ; and they knew m& too well not to comply. On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and infonnc me, that he had got a canoe, which he desired I h^od take with me, and cam home, as a present to the Eare^ rahie no Pretane ; it being the only thing, he said,tlia he could send worth his Majesty's acceptance. 1 wa not a little pleased with Otoo, for this mark of gratitude. It was a thought entirely his own, not onj of us having given him the least hint about it ; and il shewed, tliat ne fully understood to whom he was in debted for the most valuable presents he had receivf As it was too large for me to take on board, I coulj only thank him for his good intention; bMt it woulj have pleased him much better, if his present could bavj been accepted* I Th THIRD VOYAGE. 871 The frequent ymis we have lately paid to this iMluntl, spenito have created a full perNuasioii, that tlu^ IuUt- roiirHe will not be discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by Otoo, to request, in his name, the llixrce rtihie no Pretane, to send hiin, by the ne\t ships, red feathers, and the birds that produce them ; axes, half a dozen niusquets, with powder and shot ; and, by no means to forget horaes. In the morning of the 30th of September, Captain Cook left Otaheite ; and the same evening*, arrived at Eimeo. Here, the loss of a gnat, which was stolen, forced him into an hostile expedition across the island ; nor was this animal (at that conjuncture of great im- portance to him) given up, till some houses and cano/es were burnt. On the lltn of October, he steered for Huuheine, where it was his intention finally to settle Oniai, and where he arrived the next morning; Our arrival here, brought all the principal people of the island to our ships. This was just what I wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai ; and the pre- sence of these chiefs, I g^iessed, would enable me to do it in the most satisfactory manner. He now seemed to have an inclination to establish himself at Ulietea; and if he a^d I could have agreed about the mode of bring- ing that plan to bear, I should have had no objection to adopt it. His father had been dispossessed by the men of Bolab(4a, when they conquered Ulietea, of some land ia that island ; and I made no doubt of getting it re- stored to the son in an amicable manner. For thut purpose, it was necessary, that he shoidd be on good terms with those who now were masters of the island; but he was too great a patriot to listen to any such thing ; and was vain enough to suppose, that I would reinstate him in his forfeited lands \yy force. This made it impossible to tix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me Hu xheine as the proper place. I, therefore resolv- ed to avail myself oi the presence of the chief men of the island and to make tms proposal to them. After the hurry of the morning was over^ we got rea^y to pay a formal visit to Taireetareea, meaning A a a 2 then i 31- i' 5 1 ^ , 1 : ''^i; ^^l^ ''»^ : 1- ' . ; • * ■ * * If > f: f ' ■ . H : ■' ^' '. ' 1 ■! If. ' 1 ' ■ \> 1 1 . .■ H '. 1 ■ 1 ■ i-t 1 1. • -j 11' ! .' '' i ■ r! i ( ] i^ 'i h ' "'il '■i'' 1 372 CAPTAIN COOK 8 then to introduce this business. Oinai dresscnl himself very |)rot)crly on the occasion, and prepared a handsome Iiresent tor the chief himself and another for his Eatooa. Indeed, after he had ^ot clear of tho gans^ that Nur. rounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with such pni. dence tiS to j^ain respect. Our landing drew m(»5t of our visitors trom the ships ; and they, as well as those that were on shore, issenibltjd in a large house. The concourse of people, on this occasion, was very ^mit; and, amongst them, there appeared to be a fi^reater pro- ))ortion of personable men and Mromen than wc hail ever seen in one assembly at any one of these ishiiids. Not only the lulk of the people seemed, in ja^eneral, much stouter and fali'er than those of Otaheite, but \\ttt I .was abo a much greater number of n^en who appeared to be of consequence, in propoition to the extent of the I island; most of whom had exactly the coi'pulent appear- ance of the chiefs of Wateo. We waited some tinu for Tareetarcea, as I would do uothint^ till the Earee raliie came; but when he appeared, 1 found that his presence might have been dispensed with, as he >vas| not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who stood [ at a httle distance from this circle of gi^eat men, Ite^aii with making his ofiering^ to the gods, consisting- uf red feathers, cloth, Slc, Then followed another otierin^J which was to be given to the gods by the chiefs; andl sifter that, several other small pieces and tufts of redl feathers were presented. Each article was laid before! one of the company, who, 1 understood, was a priest J and was delivered with a set speech or prayer, s}K)ken| by one of Omai's friends, who sat by him, but niostlvf dictated by himself. In these pmyersbe did not forgeti his friends in England, nor those who had brought hiinl safe back. The Earee i-aliie noPretane, Lonl Sandwich J Toote, Tatee, Cook Si, Clerk, were uiientioned in evervj one of them. Wlien Omai's oiferiugsmid prayei-s were iinislied, the piiest took each article, in the same onlei| in which it had been laid before him, and alter repeat j ing a pi-ayer, sent ittothemorai ; which, as OmaitoM USJ / ^1 THIRD VOYAGE. 37S Wiis ftt a i^reat dUtuiicc, otherwise Uie uftL'nng<$ foiild have been maile there. These religtftiis ceremoiiieit having heen [Hirfonned, jpdU sat clown by me, and we entered upon businesu Iv (riving tlic young chief my present, and rceei\ing B$ in return j and, all tluLgs considered, they were iljcral enouu^h on botli sides. Some arran^enients were ext agreey had done during my former visits. Omai s e.sta< i»lunent was then proposed to the assembled chiefs. He acquainted them that lie had been carried to our Kuitry, where he was well received by the< great king kI bis earees, and treated with overy mark of regard j(l affection, while he staid amongst 08; iliMt lie had ieen brought back again, enriched by our bberftlity, [ith a variety of articles which would prove very useful countrymen ; and that besides tJie two horses liicli were to remain with him, several other new and iluable animals had- been left at Otaheite, that would on multiply, and furnish a sufficient number for tlie I of the islands in tlie neighbourhood. He then si jhich he was to belong. And having by a fortunate |^">aDection with us, got into his possession an accumu- quantity oi a species of treasure which none of ; coimtrymen could create by any art or industiy of ^own ; while all coveted a share of this envied wealth, [was natural to apprehend, that all would be ready )joiu in attempting to strip its sole proprietor. To prevent this if possible, I advised him to make o, oper distiibution oi some of his moveables, to two or ree of the principal chiefs ; who, being thus gratified emselves, might be induced to take him under their itronage, and protect him from the injuries of others. h promised to follow my advice, and I lieard, with tisiaction, before I sailed, that this prudent step had en taken. I took every opportunity of notifying to inhabitants, that it was my intention to return to lis island again, after being absent the usual time, and if I did not find Omai in the same stute of seca- ity in which I now left hiui, all those whom I should en discover to have been his enemies, might expect )feel the weight of my resentment. Omai*s II- ! 376 CAPTAiJtf COOK'ji Oniai*s house being* nearly finisht^d, nianv of hjs movenibles wefe carried ashore on the 26th. Amono-a variety of other useless articles, was a box df toys,wI]ic}) when exposed to public view, seemed gTeatly to pleast the g'aiiing multitude. But as to pots, kettles, plates I dishes, drinking mugs, glasses, and the whole train otl our domestic accommodations, hai-d/y one of hi!f.couii.| trymen would so much as look at them; Omai hiinscjf now began to think that they were of no manner of use I to him; and therefore he very wisely disjK)sed of as many of these articles of English furnitnre for thel » kitchen and pantry as he could find purchasers furj amongst the people of the ships, receivirig from them J in return, hatchets, and other tools, which had a morel .intrinsic value in this part of thci world, and adiledl more to his distinguished superiority over those with| whom he was to pass the remainder of his davs. I As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation] I began to think of leaving the island ; and got evem thing off from the shore, this evening, except the honej and mare, and a goat big with kid ; which were k*4 in the' possession of our friend, with whom we mt now finally to part. I also gave him a boar and two sows of the English breed ; and he had got two sows of his own. *. The history of Omai will, perhaps, interest a very numerous class of readers, more than any other OC'I curi*ence of a voyage, the objects of which do not, in general, promise much entertainment. Every circumJ stance, therefore, which may serve to convey a satis factory account of the exact situation ih Which he \ni left, Will b*^ thought worth preserving ; and the followJ ing particulai*s are added,; to complete the view of hu domestic establishmeut. He had picked up at Otaheitij four or five Totttotis : the two Zealand youths reinainj ed with him ; and his brother, and some others, joine him at Huaheine : so that his family consisted alreadji of eight or ten persons ; if that can be called a k^ mily, to which not a single female, as yet, belongedl norl THIRD VOYAGE. 377 jiior, I doubt, was likely to be long, unless its master t became less volatile. The house which we erected for him, was 24 feet I by 18; and ten feet high. It was composed of boards, the spoils of our military operations at Eimeo ; and, in building it, as few nails as possible were used, that there might be no inducement, from the love oJF li!on, to pull it down. His Kuropean weapons consisted of a musquet, bayonet, and cartouch-box, a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three swords or cutlasses. The possession of these made him quite happy; whicli was my only view in giv* n ^ him such presents. Foi* I was always of opinion, that he would have been hap- [pier without fii*e arms, and other European weapons, with them ; as such implements of war, in the s of one, whose pi*udent use of them I had liome grounds for mistrusting, would mther increase m dangers, than establish his superiority. After he got on shore every thing that belonged to him, |ind was settled in his new habitation, he had most of officers of both ships, two or three times, to dinner, lind his table was always well supplied with the very Im provisions that the island produced. Before I sailed, I had the following inscription cut lipon the outside of his house. Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777. ^ f Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. JNaves I Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. On the 2d of November, at four o'clock in the lernoon, I took the advantage of a breeze, which m spmng up at £. and sailed out of the harbour. lost of our friends remained on board till the shipsr lere under sail ; when, to gi*atify their curiosity, I leved five guns to .be fired. The men ail took their ive, except Omai, who remained till we were at . We hikd come to sail by a hawser fastened to shore. In casting the ship, it parted, being cut 8 B b b by 378 CAPTAIN COOK S by the rocks, and the outer end was left behind ; as those who cast it off, did not ]>e**ceivie that it was bro- ken, so that it became necessary to send a boat to brinff it on board. In this boat Omai went on shore, after takin<^ a very affectionate farewel of all the officers. He sustained himself with a manly resolution, till he came to me. Then his utmost effort to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr. King", wno went in the boat, told me, that he wept all the time in going ashore. It was no small satisfaction to reflect, that we had brought him safe back to the very spot from which he was take'^. And, yet, such is the strange nature of I human affairs, that we left him in a less desirable situa- 1 tion, than he was in before his connection with us. I j .do not, by this, mean, that, because he had tasted the sweets of civilized life, he must become more miserable | from being obliged to abandon all thoughts of continu- ing them. I confine myself to this single disagreeable I circiumstance, that the advantages he received from nsJ have placed him in a more hazardous situation, with respect to his pei'sonal safety. Omai, from being much caressed in England, lost sight of his original condition, and never considereid in what manner his acquisitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be esteemed by his countrymen, at his return; which were the only things he could have to recommend him to them now,! more than before, and on which he could build either! his future g^'eatness or happiness. He seemed even to have mistaken their genius in this respect; and in| some measure, to have forgotten their customs ; other*^ wise he must have known the extreme difficulty there! would be in getting himself admitted as a person of] rank, where there is, perhaps, no instance oi a man's being raised from an inferior station by the greatest! merits Bank seems to be the very foundation of distinction here, and, of its attendant, power; and pertinaciously, or rather blindly adhered to, that un^ less a person has some degree of it, he will certainly I despised and hated, if he assumes the appeurance of ex*! ercising any authority. This was really the case, ''" some THIRD VOYAGE. 379 Line measure, with Omai; though his countrymen Iwere pretty cautious of expressing their sentiments Ifhile we remained among them. Oniai^s father was a man of considerable property in lUlietea, when that island was conquered by those of iBolabola ; and, with many others, sought refuge in iHoaheine, where he died, and left Ohiai, with some Igther children ; who, by that means, became totally liependant. In this situation he was taken up by Cap- Jtain Fumeaux, and canned to England. Whether he lieally expected from his treatment there, that any assist- liiice could be given him against the enemies of his hther and his country ; or whether he imagined that |fo own perso.>al courage, and superiority of know- Ige would be sufficient to dispossess the conquerors of lUlietea, is uncertain ; but from the beginning of the noyage, this was his constant theme. He would not Wti to our remonstrances on so wild a determination, hitflew into a passion, if more moderate and reasonable »unsels were proposed for his advantage. Nay, so tifatuated and attached to his favourite scheme was he, at he affected to believe these people would certainly lit the conquered island, as soon as they should hear fhis arrival in Otaheite. As we advanced, however, I out voyage, he became more sensible of his error; by the time we reached the Friendjy Islands, had ven such apprehensions of his reception at home, that iwonld fain have staid behind at Tongataboo, under feenou's protection. At these islands he squandered Lway much of his European treasure very unnecessarily; ad he was equally impiiident at Tiaraboo, where he Id have no view of making friends, as he had not By intention of remaining there. Whatever faults belonged to Oniai*s chai-acter, they eremore than over-balanced by his good nature and cile disposition. During the whole time he was with e, I very seldom had reason to be seriously displeased irithhis general conduct. His grateful heart always re- pinedthe highest sense of the Tavom's he had received lEngland ; nor will he ever forget those who honoured Bbb2 him 386 CAPTAIN COOK*S^ ' him with their protection and friendship, during his stay there. Omai*s return, and the substantial proofs he broiurhfi hokik with him of our liberaHty, encouraged many' ofter themselves as volunteers to attend me to Pretane] I took everyopportunity of expressing mydeterminatiou to reject all such applications. But, notwithstandins this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only gi*eat traveller, being afraid lest I might bS Prevailed upon to put others in a situation of rivalling im, frequently put me in mind, that Lord Sandwicl] had told)iim, no other of his countrymen were to comi] to England. If there had been the most distant probability of anv ship bein^ again sent to New Zealand, I would ha4 brought the two youths of that country home with me] as both of them were very desirous of continuing witlf us. Tiarooa, the eldest, was an exceeding well di» posed young man, with strong natural sense, and cal pable of receiving any instruction. He seemed to W very sensible of the inferiorit . of his ovirn countiy [\ these islands, and resigned himself, though perh^ip with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty,! Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attached i\ us, that he was taken out of the ship, and carried ashore by forc^. He was a witty, smart boy, and o\ that account, much noticed on board, CHAP. IV. Arrival at Ulietea — Intelligence from Omai — Bm^ timtfrom the ships— The chief 'sj'amilt/ confined n that account — Con^iracy to seize the Captains Cm and Gierke — Deserters brought hack — Christm Island qridthe Sandwich Islands discovered j ^c. M THE next Island which Captain Cook visited w that of Ulietea, where he arrived on the 30 of Nov. 1777. Here he remained upwards of jnonth. He was still near enough to Omai, to havl intellig'eiicl THIRD VOYAGE. 381 intelligence of his proceedings; and having dc »ired to bear from him, the latter, about a fortnight after the captain's departure from Huaheine, sent two of his people in a canoe, who brought the s|itisfactory intel- lio-ence, that he remained undistm'bed by the people of the island, and that every thine went well with him, except that his goat had died in kidding. This intel- kence was accorapanied by a request, that the cap- I tain would send him another goat, and two axes. The j messengers were accoi-dingly sent back with the axes, 1 and two kids, male and female. In the night between the 12th and 13th, a marine I deserted from his post at the observatory, cari-ying with tdm his musket and accoutrements. Captain Cook went with a strong party in pursuit of him, and found liim in a house sitting between two women, who in^ glantly rose to plead in his behalf. The captain, in I order to discountenance such proceedings, frowned on them, feind bid them begone : upon which they burst into tears, and walked off. The fellow had nothing to in his defence, but that the natives had enticed away. On the 24th, the desertion of a midshipman and a I seaman, had like to have been attended with more Iterious consequences. As the natives were evidently desirous of concealing the deserters, the difficulty (Jf [recovering them was great. The pursuit after the fugi- Itives was ineffectual : they had escaped to the island of iBolabola. On the 26th, Oreo, the chief of Ulietea, with his \m, daughter, and soi>in>law, went on board the Re- Iwlution. The three last being invited by Capt. Clerke Itogo on board the Discovery, were inmiediately con- libed in the cabin. The chief, who still remained on [Ward the Resolution, was informed that he had liberty Ito depart, and if he recovered the two deserters, hit} Ifamily should be released, but that otherwise, they jilioald be carried away when the ships sailed. This idient proved successful, although very dangerous; for 382 CAPTAIN COORDS for a scheme had been formed to seize the person of Captain Cook, as he went to his usual bathing-place • and also Captain Clerke and Lieutenant Gore, as they i were walking qji shore ; but Capt. Cook did not jud^e ' it safe in such critical circumstances, to repeat his bath. | ing; and a pistol in Captain Clerke's hand had intimi- dated the natives. The conspiracy was first discovered I by a girl, whom one of the officei's had brought from Huaheine. On the 28th, Oreo brought back the two deserters, who had been taken on the small island of I Toobaee; and the family of Oreo was immediately f released. On the 8th of December, Capt. Cook visited Bola. bola, where he stayed no longer than to purchase ofl Opoony, the chief of that island, the anchor which hadf been left there by M. Bougainville. [ Leaving the island of Bolabola, we steered to thel Northward ; and in the night between the 22d and! 23d, crossed the line in the long, of 203 deg. Idl min. E. On the 24th, they discovered an islandj which they called Christmas Island, a small, ban'enJ and uninhabited spot. Having weighed anchor oo the 2d of Jan. 1778, they resumed their coui'se to the Northward, and on the 18th, discovered several small islands in the lat. of 21 deg. 12 m. N. aud long. 200 deg. 41 min. E. ; for one of these tliej steei'ed, and at first, were in some doubt whether no it was inhabited. However, they soon saw sevej ral canoes coming off from the shore towards tli ships, which were immediately brought to, to giv(| them time to join. They had from three to six meij each; and on their approach, it was an agreeabli tiurprise to find that they spoke the language o| Otaheite. It required but little address to get then to^ come along-side; but no intreaties could prevai| on any of them to come on board. Their behaViou seemed perfectly inoftensive, and they had noar of any kind, except some small stones, which thej Jiad evidently brought for their defence, and whici thel THIRD VOYAGE. 38.3 [lliey threw away when they found they were not Iranted. Captain Coo]c proceeding to coast alons^ the island, |in search of anchoring ground, these canoes left him ; Ibat others came off, bringing with them roaste of the short <;lokes worn by il^ Women in KimiandJ and the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of tlw hack, and tied loosely before. The ground of then is a net-work, upon which the most heautifnLred iiiui yellow feathers are so closely fixed, t]>at the siu'tiicij miffht be compared to the thickest and richest vthetl which they resemble, both as to • the feel, and glossJ appearance. The means of varying the mixture is veJ dinerent ; some hr e triangidar spaces of red ami yell low alteiTiately ; ot "s* a kind of crescent ; and somj that were entirely rt .., had a broad yellow bDrder, whiclj made them appear, at some distance, exactly like Scarlet cloke edged with gold lace. The brilliant co lours of the feathers, in those that happened to he ncivj added not a little to their fine appearance ; and wj found that they were in high estimation withilieij owners j for they v/ould not, at first, part with one them, for any thing that we offered, asking no less I price than a musket ; but some were afterwards jim chased for large nails. The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, wr the middle part, or cre§t, sometinies of a hand-breadt| and it sits very close upon the head, having notches 1 admit the ears. Its frame is of twigij and osiers, covej ed with net-work into which are wrought feathers, the same manner as on the clokes, though rathipr closd and less diversified ; the greater part being red, wij some black, yellow, or green stripes on the sides, fof lowing the curve direction of the crest. These, prj bably, with the clokes, complete the dress ; for tlf natives sometimes, appeared with both on together.! On the 29th, (Japt. Cook left Atooi, being dnv| from the road by stress of weather, and soon arrivi THIRD VQYACE. 387 I off the isUu dog's tail is sewed over a stick, with its tuft atl the eud. They also frequently wear on the head a kmd of orn^unent, of a finger's thickness, or more, co- \eved with red and yellow feathers, curiously vavied, and tied behind, and on the arm, above the elbow, ^j kind of broad shell-work, groiuided upon net-work. The men are frequently punctur- \ though not in I any particular part, as the Otaheiteans, and those ofl TpngtttaboQ. ooin^times there ave a few marks upoin their hands, or arms, and near the groin ; but frequently! Vi^e f^ould observe nope at all ; ihouglj a few iadivi- duai» had more of this sort of ornam^u1;9 than we had I i:y^v^y seeii at other places, ai^d iug^mo^sly executed Hmve is not ur lu tHlRtt VOYAGE. ^91 m a great variety of lined and figures, on the arms ahd fore part of the belly ; on which latter, some of them had the figure of the taame, or breast-plate, of Ota- heite, though we did net meet with the thing itself 1 amongst them. Though they seemed to have adopted the mode of li v- jino; in villages, there is ho appearance of defence or fortification, near any of them : and the houses arc scattered about, without any order, either with respect to the distances from each other, or their position in any particular direction. Neither is there any propor- tion as to Iheir size ; some being large and commodi- ous, from forty to fifty feet long, and twenty or thirty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their fiofare is not unlike oblono^ corn or hay -stacks ; or per- haps, a better idea may be conceived of theni, if we suppose the roof of a barn placed on the ground, in such a manner, as to form a highj acute ridge, with two very low sides, hardly discernible at a distance. The gable, t each end, corresponding to th« sides, make these habitations perfectly close all around ; and they are well thatched with long grass, which is laid on slender poles, disposed with some regularity. The entrance is made either in the end or side, and is an oblong hole, so low, that one milst rather creep than walk in ; and is often shut up by a board of planks, fastened together, which serves as a door, but having* no hinges, must be removed occaisionally. No light entei-s the house, but by this opening ; and though such close habitatiomi may afibrd a comfortable retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill adapted to the warmth of the climate. They are, however kept remarkably clean ; and their floors are covered with a larg'e quantity of dried grass, orer which they spread mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a kind of bench, about three feet high, On which their household utensils are placed. The ca- Wogiie is not long. It consists of gourd-shells, which convert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold [*ater, and as baskets to contain their victuals, and |«thir things, with covers of the same 3 and a tew woodea bowls I 392 CAPTAIN COOK S bowls and trenchers, of different sizes. Judging fvom i what we saw growing", and from what they brono-ht i to market, there can be no doubt, that the greatest part of their \ egetable food consists of sweet potatoesJ taro, and plantains; and that br^ad-fruit and yams ar& rather to be esteemed rarities. Of animal food, they can be in no want; as they have abundance of hogs,! which run, without restraint, about the houses ; and ifl they eat dogs, which is not improbable, their stock of| these seemed to be very considerable. The great num- ber of fishing-hooks found among them, shewed that! they derive no inconsiderable supply of animalfood from the sea. But it should seem, from their practice of salting fish, that the openness of their coast often in- •terrupts the business of catching them ; as may be na- turally supposed, that no set of people would ever think of preserving quantities of food artificially, if they I could depend upon a daily, regular supply of it, in its fresh state. Tnis sort of reasoning, however, will notl account for their custom of salting their pork, as well! as their fish, which are preserved in gourd-shells. Thai salt, of which they use a great quantity for this pur- pose, is of a red colour, not very coarse. It has its co- lourj doubtless, from a mixture of the mud, at the bot- tom of the part where it is formed, for some of it, that! had adhered into lumps, was of a sufficient whitenessj and purity. They bake their vegetable food with heated stonesj as at the Southern Islands; and from thj vast quantity which we sa,w dressed at one time, we suspected that the whole village, or, at least, a considerable number of people, joined in the use of a common oven. The| only artificial dish that we met with, was a taro pud- ding ; which though a disagreeable mess from its sourJ ness, was greedily devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of wooden plates, or trenchers ; and the wo- men, as far as we could judge from one instance, i^ restrained from feeding at the same dish with th« men, as at Otaheite, are, at leasts pemiitted to eat ii the same place near them. Theii THIRD VOYAGE. 89S Their amusements seemed prettj- varions ; for, dur- lin^ our short stay, several were discovered. The dan- Ices, at which they use the feathered cloaks and caps, Iwere not seen ; but from the motions which they made Ifith their hands, on other occasions, when they sung", le could form some judo^ent that they are, in som'e iegree at least, similar to those we met with at the Southem Islands, though not executed so skilfully, pieither had they amongst them either flutes or reeds'; nd the only two musical instruments which we observ- 1, were of an exceedingrude kind. One of them does ot pi'oduce a melody exceeding that of a child's rattle. ; consists of what may be called a conic cap inverted, lit scarcely hollowed at the base above a foot high, Dade of a coarse, sedge-like plant ; the upper part of jrliich, and the edges, are ornamented with beautiful k1 feathers ; and to the point, or lower part, is fixed igourd-shell, larger than the first. Into this is put Bmethine: to rattle: which is done bv holdinscthfe in- iment by the small part, and shakiag, or rather Doving it, horn place to place briskly, either to differ- nt sides, or backward and forward, just before the face, dng the breast with the other hand at the same time. he other nmsical instrument (if either of tkem deserve at name) was a hollow vessel of wood, like a platter, oml)incd with the use of two sticks, on which one of nr gentlemen saw a man performing. He held one the sticks, about two feet long, as we do a fiddle |riih one hand, and struck it with the othe;", which smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker rslower measure ; at the same time beating- with his upon the iiollow vessel, that lay inverted upon the [round, and thus producing a tune, that was by no eaiis disagreeable. » This music was accompanied by |ie vocal performance of some women, whose song ftd a pleasing and tender eifect. We observed great numbers of small polished rods, out four or five feet long, somewhat thicker than the iwner of a musket, with a tuft of long white dog's iir fixed on the small end. These are, probably, used 19 Ddd in !!l| ii! 394 tAPTAIN COOK S iti their diversions. We saw a person take oneoftbeml in bis hand, and, holding* it up, gave a small stroke, til) he brought it into an horizontal position, striking tntJ the foot on the same side, upon the ground, ana witL his other hand, beating his breast at the same time] They play at bowls, witjh pieces of whet-stone, of abouj a pound weight, shaped somewhat like a small cheese] but rounded at the sides and edges, which are verj nicely polished ; and they have other bowls of the sam^ sort, made of a heavy, reddish brown clay, neatly fr]z zed over with a composition of the same colour, or oj a coarse, dark grey slate. They also use, in the sam( manner that we throw quoits, small, flat, rounded , pieces of writing slate of the diameter of the bowlsj . but scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, also wellpc lished. From these circumstances, one would be m\ duced to think, that their games are rather trials o| skill than of strength. Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered at ail early period, by the Spaniards, there is little doubt tha they would have taken advantage of so excellent i situation, and made use of Atooi, or some other i the islands, as a refreshing-place to the ships, that sa| 4 annually from Acapulco to Manilla. How happj would Lord Anson have been, and what hardsnif would he have avoided, if he had known that therj was a group of islands, half way between AmericJ and Tiuiau, where all his wants could haA^e been fectually supplied. - C-'/^\:' \ '' CHAP, v.- ..' .;•-: Cvriomfmarinepha'nomena — Arrival at NootJta Smm — Intercourse with the natives — Descripiion ofth\ persons- - Their general dispositions^ and their eagei ness to possess iron and other metals, IN pursuing his voyage northward, one of the raoj curious circumstances which the captain obsenej was during a calm on the 2d of March, 1778, whe home parts of the sea seemed covered with a kind THIRD VOYAGE. 395 slime, and some small sea animais were swiniming^ about ; the most conspicuous of which, were of the Uelatinous, or medusa kind, almost n^lohular ; and ano- flier sort smaller, that had d white, or shinint^ appcar- Lcey and were very numerous. Some of these lust were taken up, and put into a ^lasscup, with some salt Ivater, in whicn they appeared like small scales, or bits Irf silver when at rest in a prone situation. When tliey Ibegan to swim about, which they did with equal ease, litpon their back, sides, or belly, they emitted the Ibrightest colours of the most precious ^ems, according^ Ito their position with respect to the light. Sometimes Ithey appeared quite pellucid, at other times assuming iTarious tints of blue, from a pale sapphirine, to a deep Iriolet colour, which were frequently mixed with a liaby, or opaline redness ; and flowed with strength liomcient to illuminate the vessel and water. ' They Iproved to be a new species of oniscus, and, from their ■properties, were by Mr. Anderson called oniscus ful- l^as ; beings, probably, an animal which has a share iu Iproducing some sorts of that lucid appearance, often [observed near ships at sea, in the night. The coast of New Albion, iu North America, was liirst descried on the 7th ; but being much obstructed Iliy adverse and tempestuous winds, it was not till the pth that the captain came to anchor in a sound, to Iwhich he ffave the name of King George's Sound, . Ibut which the nati ves called Nootka. It is situated on lllie E. corner of Hope Bay, in the lat. of 49 deg. 33 liaiu. N. and in the long, of 233 deg. 12 min. K. Va^ Irious reparations of the ships, and a very friendly in- Itei'course with the natives, employed his time till the plh of April, when he put to sea m the further pur- , pit of his voyage. When the captain first entered this Sound, th ee iQoes came oft* to the ship. In one of these v/cre two uen, in another six, and in the third ten. Having ome pretty near, a person in one of the two last stood Bp, and made a long' harangue, inviting theui to land, was guessed by his gestures. At the same time, Ire Ddd2 kept 396 CAPT>TX COOKS kept strewing^ handfuls of feathers tGwardsl them ; and some of Ills companions threw handfuls of a red dust | in the same manner. Tiie person who played the ora- tor, wore the skin of some animal, and held in each! hand, somethin*^ which rattled as he kept shaking it. jyfter the tumultuous noise had ceased, they lay at a lit- tle distance from the ship, and conversed with each other in a very easy manner ; nor did they seem to shew the least surprise or mistrust. Soon after, the ca- noes began to come off in great numbers, and at one! time, there were 32 of them, carrying* 3 to 8 persons] each, both men and women. But though these visi- tors behaved very peaceably, they could not be prevail- ed upon to come on board. They shewed great readi- ness however, to part with any thing they had, anc 'took whatever was offered them in exchange ; but weiel more desirous of iron, thi^n qf any other article of coin-l inerce. The most extraordinary of all articles tliejj brought for sale, were human skulls, and hands, noli yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made u^ plainly understand they had c.ten. We had but too much reason to suspect from this circumstance, thall the horrid practice of feeding on their enemies is aa prevalent here, as we had found it to be at New Zealand, SiC. The persons of the natives are, in general, under th^ common stature, but not slender in proportion, being commonly pretty full or plump. The visage of most oj them is round and full ; tlie forehead rather low; tlw eyes black, and rather languishing than sparklingj They have either no beards at all, which was most couij monly the case, or a small thin one upon the point oj the chin, which does not arise from any natural defecj of hair 6n that part, but from plucking it out more oj less : for some of them, and particulary the old menj have not only considerable beards all over the chin,M whiskers, or mustachios, upon the upper lip, anf running thence toward the lower jaw obliquely do^vnj ward. Their colour we could not positively determine, their bodies were iucrusted with paint and dirt -, thouglj one was seen, ( gather muscles THIRD VOYAGE. 397 j ill particular cases, when these were well rubbed off, I the whiteness of the skin appeared to equal that of I Europeans. Their children, whoso skins had never I been stained with paint, also equalled ours in whiteness. The women are nearly of the saino size, colour, and I form with the men ; from whom it is not easy to distin- guish them, as they possess no natural delicacies sufli- cient to render their persons agreeable ; and Iiardly any one was seen, even those who were in the prime of Efe, who had the least pretensions to be called handsome. The chief employment of the natives seems to be that of fishing^, and killing land or sea animals, for the I sustenance of their families; for we saw few of thtni iloing* any thing in their houses : whereas the women I are occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, and in preparing the fish called sardine, for drjing j which they carry up from the beach in twig- baskets, after the men have brougli them in their ca- Inoes. The women are also sent in the small canoes to gather muscles and other shell-lish ; and perhaps on I some other occasions. * We were much better enabled to form some judg- linent of their disposition, and, in some measure, even of their method of living, from the frequent visits so many of them paid us at our ships, in their canoes ; in which, it should seem, they spend a great deal' of lime, at least in the summer season. For we observed that they not only eat and sleep frequently in them, but strip off their clothes, and lay themseh es along to bask ill tlie sun, in the same manner as we had seen prac- I tised at their village. Their canoes of the lar j>er sort, I are indeed sufficiently spacious for that purpose, and perfectly dry ; so that under shelter of a skin, they are^ «cept in rainy weather, much more comfortable ha- bitations than their house. With respect to food, their greatest reliance seems lobe upon the sea, as affording fish, muscles, and small shell-fish, and sea-animals. Of the first, the piiiK'ipal are herrings, sardines, two species of bream, . * ' and 1^' 398 CAPTAIN cook's and small cod. But the herring^s and 8ai*dines are not only eat<;n fresh, in their season, but likewise serve as stores, which after bcin^ dried and smoked, are pre- served by bcin^ sewed up in inats, so as to form large bales, three or four feet square. The herrings also sup. ply them with another ^rand resource, which is a vast quantity of roe, very curiously prepared. It is strewed upon, or as it were, mcrustated about, small branches ot th^ Canadian pine. They also prepare it upon a Ion? narrow sea-grass, which grows plentifully' upon the rocks under water. It may be considered as the winter bread of these people, and has no disagreeable taste. They also roast the large kind of muscle, then stick them upon long wooden skewers, and taking them oif occasionally, eat them without any other prepara- tion, though they often dip them in oil, as a sauce. Of the sea animals, the most common in use amon^ them as food, is the porpoise, the fat or rind of which, as well as the flesh, triey cut in large pieces, and having dried them as they do the herrings, eat them without any farther preparation. They also prepare a sort of broth from this animal, in its fresh state, in a singular manner, putting pieces of it in a square wooden vessel or bucket with water, and then throwing heated stones into it. This operation they repeat till they think the contents arc sufficiently stewed or seethed. They put in the fresh, and take out the other stones, with a cleft stick, which serves as tongs; the vessel being always placed near the Are for that purpose. This is a pretty common dish among them, and from its appearance, seems to be strong nourishing food. Their manufactures, and mechanic arts, are far more ingenious^ both in design and execution, than could have been expected from the natural disposition of the people, and the little progress that civilization has made among them in other respects. Their ilaxen garments arc made of the bark of the pine-tree, beatl into a hempen state. It is not spun, but, after being properly prepared, is spread upon a stick, A\hich is fastened across two others that stand upright. It is! disposed! THIRD VOYAGE. SD9 disposed in such a manner, that thomamifactiircr, who sits on her hams at this simple machine, knots it across with small plated threads, at the distance of half an inch from each other. Though, by this method, it be not so close or firm as cloth that is woven, the bunches between the knots made it sufficiently impervious to the air, by filling the interstices; and it has the addi- tional advantage of being* softer and moreplial)le. Their woollen garments, though probably manufactured in the same manner, have the strongest rescni!)lance to woven cloth. But the various figures wliicli are very artificially inserted in them, destroy the supposition of I their being wrought in aloom ; it being extremely un- likely, that these people should be so dexterous as to be able to finish sucn a complex work, unless immediate- I ly by their hands. They are of different degrees of fineness; some resembling our coarsest rugs or blan- I kets ; and others almost equal to our finest sort, or tvert softer, and certainly warmer. Their implements for fishing and hunting, which I ire both ingeniously contrived and well made, are nets, hooks and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an instrument like an oar. This last is about 20 feet long, 4 or 5 inches broad, and about half an inch tliick. Each I edaje, for about two thirds of its length, is set with irp bone teeth, about two inches long. Herrings I and sardines, and such other small fish as come in shoals, are attacked with this instrument; which is struck into the shoal, and the fish arc caught either npon, or between the teeth. Their hooks are made of bone and wood, and rather inartificially ; but the har- poon, with which they strike the whales and lesser sea animais, shews a great reach of contrivance. It is com- posed of a piece of bone, cut into two barbs, in which ufixedtheovalbladeofa large muscle shell, in which is the point of the instrument. To this is fastened about two or three fathoms of rope ; and to throw this fcarpoon, thejr use a shaft of about 12 or 15 feet long, to which the rope is made fast, and to one end oif Whi^h th^ harpooiv is fixed ; so as to separate from the \ shmft . '\ . . . . 1 j i rW^^^ «K > K I IB*' B JHp 400 Captain cook's fihaft, and leave it tloatiiioj" upon the water as ii buoy, when the uiilinul darts away witli the harpoon. We sailed from NootkaSomidonthe2(5th of April, jliid soon lost sii;ht of land ; but on the 2d of May, steerinp^ N. W. by N. \vc discovered a round felevated mountain, which was named Mount Edijecumbc, and tlic ])oint of land shooting* out from it, Cape Edo-e- cumbe. Tho land, except in some places close to the sea, was all of a considerable height, and hilly. The more elevated hills were covered with snow ; but the lower ones were free from it, and covered with a fine wood. Hence we coasted along,noting several inlets, islands, capes, and n^onntains, (to which in the order of disco- very we g'a\ e the names of the Bay of Islands, Cross Cape, Cross Sound, Cape Fair Weather, Blount Fair Weather, Bherinj^'s Bay, the Mountain called by Bher- j ing". Mount Elias, Cape Suckling's, Kay's Island, and Comptroller's Bay) till the 12th of May, when we an- chored before a small cove, a little within a cap6, to I which we gave the name of Cape Hinchitig Bi'okc. | Near this were some ro(;ky islands, to which Mi*. Gore was sent in a boat, in hopes, of shooting some eatable birds. But he had hardly got to theili, before the na- tives made their appearance in two large canoes, on j which he thougbt proper to return to the ^hip;^, and I they followed him. They wonld not venture along- side, but kept at a distance, hallooing aloud, and I alternately clasping and extending their arms ; and in a short time began a kind of song, exactly after the man- ner of those at Nootka. Tlieir heads were all powderr cd with feather,' . One man held out a white garment,] which was interpreted as a sign of friendship; and ano- ther stood up in a canoe, quite naked for almost quarter of an hour, with his arms stretched out like aj cross, and motionless. Though the captain returned! all their signs of friendship, and by every expVessiyel gesture, tried to encourage them to cotne aloiig^side, he .(jould not prevail. After receiving some." pr(5s^nts whjcl.i were thrown to them, they retired to that parti 3 tltniD TOVAGB. 401 mtht shore whence they came, making signs th«y would appear again the next morning*. ^ The next morning, captain Cook got under sail, I in order to look out for Home snug place, where he Light stop, a leak, \?hich he had lately sprung, it first the clearness of the weather tempted him ^o Ueer to the N. farther up the largest inlet ; but bad Leather returning, he was obliged to anchor, befoi*© |he had got so far into the bay as he inten(icd. The weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three lofthe natives from paying him a visit. They came Idir in two canoes, two men in one, and one in the lother, being the number each could carry. Each olf Itbese men had a stick, about three feet long, with th4 llirge feathers or wings of birds tied to it. These llliey frequently held op, with a view, as was guessed* |to express their pacific disposition. The treatment these men met with induced many Inore to come, between one and two the next moi'n"^ m (the 14th) in great and small <;anoes. Some ven^ Itured on board the ship, but not till some of the cre\^ mA. stepped into their boats. Amongst those who [tune on board, was a good-looking middle-aged man, ; iho was afterwards found to be the ohief. He wasi Idothed in a dress made of the sea otter's skin, and Ikd on such a cap as is worn by the natives of Nootka md, ornamented with sky blue glass beads about |1k size of a large pea. He seemed to set a much value upon these, than upon our white glas^ Is. Any sort of beads, however, seemed to be ia Bgii estimation with these people ; and they readily ive whatever they had in exchange for them, evert if fine otter skins. These people were also desirous of iron, but thej^ tBted pieces of eight or ten inches long at least, aiija the breadth of three or fom* fingers. For they Dlotely rejected small pieces. Consequently they' but little, iron having by this time become )a' rce article. The captain could not prevail upon chief to trust himself below the upper deck ; nor he and his eompamons rema:tki Ifsag mx bo^rd. 9 JEee Bujt '1 vi :: M *Ki ° ■• ;i Mi 1:^ ?■;! .^ iO'Z CAPTAIN COOKS • But while he Imd their company, it was necessary k watcli them narrowly, as they soon betrayed a thievishl cjisposition. At len<»th, after bcins^ about three or| four hours along'-side the Resohition, they all left htt and went to the Discovery ; none having been then before, except one niain, who at ih',n time came froi her, and immediately returned thither iu compam jwith the rest. When this was observed, it was thought this man had met with soniething there, which he knew would please his countrymen better than whaj they had met with on board the Resohition. .. As soon as they Mere gone, I sent a boat to soiiml the hea and frequently of brown colour. But sevei*al of the elderly men h $ven» large and thick, but straight beaixls. Though, in general, they agree in the make ofth^L' perovas, aad largensss of their heads, there is a consi- • ' derablfl arable variet; said to be itenance ii )d nature, s ave agreeable blefrom the blicate ; but tl Joanger sort, ^ women, an pt any mixtur Irere seen nak< which coi they do not Their commi en, are clothe ither robe, res: letimes only [hole just suffli at reach to th I skins of diff jch are those piue-mai*ti^ aei-al, they a oe also have t |itli only the d< on other i erthis auotht .tiaes of wh ;^ ' i m skilful '^ t'N leaf. It ; vea reach kistied with a ithe canoes, a Bch they ait, i time, it kc water can p tghabladdi The men con ♦lecK andfor< :i 9»d mo«t THIB1> VOYAGU, 405. ible variety iu tlwir fea,tureg; but very few cai\ said to be of the handsomer sort, though thqiif iteuance imllcates a watural share of vivacity,. nature, and frankness. 8onae of the womei^ ave agreeable faces, and many are easily distinguish^ ble from the men by their features, which are moro^ felicate ; but this should be underatocd chiefly of th^i ^danger sort, or middle-aged. The complei!(ion of women, and of the children, is white; but with-* Dt liny mixture of i*ed. And some of the men, wha Irere seen naked, had rather a brownish or swarthy which could scarcely be the effect of any ^taiui they do not paint their bodies. Their common dress ^for men, women, and chiU len, are clothed alike) is a kind of close frack* i»f ither robe, reaching generally to the ankles, though letimes only to the knees. And the upper part \^ [hole just sufficient to admit the heads with sloev^^ at reach to the wrist. These frocks aro made p^ I skins of different animals ; the most common of hich are those of the sea-otter, grey . fox, racoon, pine-martin, with many of seal-skins ; and, iut aeml, they are worn with thq hairy sides outwardt lealso have thescf frocks made of the skins of fowls,. litli only tho down remaining on them, which they le on other ^ubstanoes. When it i*ains, thoy put erthis another frock, ingeniously made from th^ tines of whales, or some other large animal, pr^'^ ^'''•'j ^o skilfully* as almost to resemble our gol4-> p /<^ ieaf. It is made to draw tight round th^ neck| ve-ii reach as low as the wrist, round which they l^etied with a string; and itn skirts, when th^y arit, so that no water oan ent^r. At the time, it keeps the men entirely dry upward, fof water can penetrate through it, any mor^ tbwi ough a bladder. [The men conunonly wear thiuthi| 8»icklirg children, is often above two inches lono*- fti: I "" '^er by its natural retraction, when the wound is frc. , or by the repetition of some artificial manao-e-j msnt, assumes the true shape of lips, and Ijecomes si large as to admit the tongue through. Thishappenei to be the case when the first pereon ha\'ing this incisioi was seen by one of the seamen, who called out thai the men had two mouths; and indeied, it does nol look much unlike it. In this artificial mouth the stick a flat, narrow ornament, made chiefly out oi soflid shell or bone, cut in little narrow pieces, lik «inall teeth, almojt down to the base or thickest par which has a small projecting bit at each end that sn^ ports it when put into the divided lip, the cut part the appearing outward. Others have the lower lip onl perforated into separate holes; and then the onia" tnent consists of many distinct shelly studs, whos points are pushed through these holes, and the headi Appear withiil the lip, as another row of teeth undei their own. . ''xes, though tl lye bottoms fix( ^ere smaller, ai ^niWingalari It more ishaij( ' THIRD VOYAGE. 40^ last case, they cannot remove them so easily ; for, as to their own lip ornaments, they can take them out ^vith their tongne, or snck within, at pleasure. They also wear bracelets, of the shelly beads, or others of a cylindrical shape, made of a substance like amber, yi\nc\i are also used in their ears and noses. And so fond are they, in general, of ornaments, that they stick . ly thiqg" in their perforated lip ; one man aj)- peiu'ing^ with two of our iron nails projecting- from it like prongs; and another endeavouring to put a large brass button into it. > jw,'-^ The men frequently paint their faces of i} bright I red, and of a black colour ; and sometimes of a blue, or leaden colour ; but not in any regular figure ; ^m\i I tlie women, in some measure, endea\ our to imitate, them, by puncturing or staining their chin with black,, that comes to a point in each cheek. Their bodies are not painted, which may be owing to the scarcity of proper materials; for all which they brought toscij[> iu bladders, were in very small quantities. ,* r^' The weapons Jiind instnunents for fishing and Imnt-f ins^, with their canoes, are the very same that are. made use of by the Esquimaux and Greeidanders, - For defensive armour they have a kind of jacket, or> coat of mail, made of thin laths, bound . togethor: with sinews, which makes it quite flexible, though so I close as not to admit of an arrow or dart. It only, covers the trunk of the body, and may not be im-^ Iproperly compared to a wrpinau's stays. As none of these people lived in the bay where cap-, Itain Cook anchored, or landed, he saw none of their. liiabitations ; and had not time to look after them. Of. Itheir domestic utensils, they brought in their boats. me round, and, oval shallow dishes of wood ; audi lothers of a cylindrical shape, much deeper. The sides. jtere made of one piece, bent round, like our chip- [boxes, though thick, neatly fastened with thongs, asid. P»e bottoms fixed in with small wooden pegs. Others* ^ere smaller, and of a more elegant shape, somewhat. enibling a large oval butter-boat, without a handle, . at more gballoWy made from a piecQ of wood, orjt ' "i horny 4^^ CAl*tAm COOK** homy substance. These last; were sotnetiitu^s tHii,*^ je&vveA. They had many little stpiai-e ba^s, made of | thte same ^it with their outet ft-ocks, neatly oriia* ftientecl with Vety minilte red feathers interwoven i with it, in which were Contained some Very finei Mnews, and bundles of small doi'd, made from them, most ingeniously plaited. They also brought many chequered baskets, so closely wrought as to hold water; some wooden models of their canoes; a ^ood many little imag;es, four or fiv« inches long, either of wood, or stuffed ; which were corea*ed with a bit of I fur, and omambnted with smal] quill feathers, in hni- tation of their shelly beads, with hair fijped on their I heads. Whether these might be mere toys for chil- .Aren, or held in veneration, as representing their de» ceased friends, and applied to some superstitious pur- pose, could not be determined. But they have many] in^mments mthan water itseH; Their metllod of eating seems decent &nd cleanly; for th6y «l#ays took care to separate any dirt that night adhere to their victual^; And though tliey wmetimes did- eat the itiw ht of some sea animiu^ they cut it Gat«W^ktikriilsvwlii<^w«r9^ie« 9 Fff there 410 CAPTAIN cook's there are some in this place which are not found there ; such as the ivhite bear ; of whose skins the natives brought several pieces, and some entire skins of cvhs; from which their size could not be determined. There was also the wolverine, or quickhatch, which had very bright colours ; a larger sort of ermine than the conapon one, which is the same as at Nootka, va- ried with a. brown colour, and with scarcely any black on its tail. The natives also brought Hie. skin «f the he^ of some very lar^e animal;lHitk could not positively be determined what it was ; though fro^i the colour and sbagginess of the hair, and its unlike- ness to any other land animal, it might probably be that of the large male ursine seal, or sea bear. But of the most beautiful skins, and which, seems one peculiar to this place, is that of a small animal about ten inches long, of a brown or msiy colour on the i^ic\i, : with a great number obscure whitish specks; ^nd the i»des of a blueish ash colour^ also with a few of these specks. The tail is not above one third.the I length of its body, and is covered with hair of a ivhitish colour fit the edspes. It is no doubt the same -^ith those' called spotted field mice, by Mr. Stgehlio, iinhis short account of the New Northern Archipe- lago. Bi|t whether they be really of the mouse kivd,! or ^ squirrel, could not be told, for want of perfectl skji^i: thoqgh Mr* Anderson was. inclined to thinkl ^t it i» t)io, soi^e animal desK^ribed under the name| ^ the Cason maiiivot» l^y Mr. Pennant, The num- ber of skips foiind^ beret. p<»iits out the great plentyl of these several animals jipt mentioned; but it is;r&< ^ai^rkable, neither the; ^imfi pi. the mouse nor of the eonunon deer wfu^etp be seenw f i^l'rr**'^! • • - ni 4 ,.Qf the Inrds meBit\9ned at Nootkf^ ;were found hei only the white headed eap^le >:thieiShag| thejtkyen* oi gre. ithii^ttgh it i^fta scar^ly lii here in the winter, which must be very sev^te* Tl ,V*ter fowl wei^^ee^tif^ snuyttiS^rt ^ 4uek^ i. I THIBD VOYAGE. 4U like that mentioned at Kergaelen*s Land : another sort which no one knew ; and some of the black seapyes, with I'ed bills, which were found at Van Dieihien*s Uiid «nd New Zealand. Some of the people who went on shore, killed a goose, a snipe, and some plovers. Bat though, upon the whole, tne water fowl were I pretty numerous, especially the ducks and ffeese^ which frequent the shore, they were so shy, that it was Scarcely possible to get withm shot; so that they ob- iiined a very small supply of them as a refreshment. Their metab were copper and iron : both w;hichy particularly the latter, were in such plenty, as to con- Utate the points of most of the arrows and lances. The ores, with which they painted themselves, were iredbrittle,unctnous ochre, or iron ore, not much Llike cinnabar in colour; a bright blue pigment; Imd black lead. Each of these seemed to be very scarce, I is they brought very smaU quantities of the first and igt, and seemed to keep them with great care» Few vegetables of any kiod were seen; and the Itrees which chiefly grew nere, were the Canadian and liprace ptne, and some of them tolerably large. I The beads and iron found amongst these people, M, no doubt- that they must have receiyed them from some civilizeu nation. ^ It was pretty certain from cir- [{omstances already mentioned, that Captain Cook's Ipeople were the first Europeans with whom they had Itrerieieinnkuiiieiited directly; and it remains only to Ike dieeided/ from what quarter they had got our ma- Inifiietni^, by intermediate conveyance. And there Ittniiot be the least doubt of their having received liiiese articles, through the intervention of the more IkJaDd tribes, from Hudson*s Bay, or the settlers on |i^ Canadian lakes ; unless it can be supposed (which Ibwever is lest likely) that the Bussilm traders, from iKuiLtschatka,. have already extended their traiiic thus ^;^^ at leak that the nativfs of their most easte^^ly ni IJAandUcdmiiiunicale along the^oast, with those r^fio^WmiiMii^s Sbund, - [i::£ ,::^H.v:: ;•;.•• :- Ftf« , Z" ■'■ As. i, VR -i 412 CAPTAIK COOK*& As to the copper, these people seem to procure it themselves, or at most it passes throu^t^ very few hands to them : for they used to express it^ being in a sufficient quantity among them, when tliey offered any to barter, by pointing to their weapons ; as if to say, that having so much of this metal of their owfi, they wanted no more. , ,,. , , t^ i '' It is, however, remarkable,** says Captain Cook J *' if the inhabitants of this Sound be supplied with European articles, by way of the intermediate traffic to the East coast, that they should in return, never have given to the more inland Indians any of their seaM>tter skins; which would certainly have been seen J some time or other, about Hudson*s-Bay. But, as far! as I know, that is not the case ; and tne method ofl accounting for this, must be by taking into considera*[ tioi^ the very great distance ; which though it might iiot prevent Eluropean goods coming so far, &9 being so uncommon, might prevent the skins, which are i common article, from passing through more than twc or three different tribes, who might use them for theii own cloathing : and sendothers, which they esteeme< less valuable, as being of their uiai|d oif !Lord Sandwich, ** If the discovery, ' says Capt. Cnok, ** pf this |;reai rirer, which promises to vie wiith the most cpnsfderable ooes already Known tp be c^p^able of extensive iidand Bavig^ion, should prove of us^ jeitjxer to th^^resent, U to Any futm'e age, the time we ^peut in it taught to he the least regretted. But to us whoJxad amuph greater Uiect in view, the delay dius occasioned wasa.nes8fn- pllofs. The season was advancing apac3e. We knew liot l|ow far we might have to proceed to the South ; lind we are now convinced that the continent of Ame-, liica extended farther to the west, than from the modera liuMit reputable eharts we had reason to expect. This |iu4e the fixistence of a p^age'into Baffin^s qr Hud^ iDa!s Bay less prol^ble ; or ^t least shewed it io bci of lureater {extent, tt was ^ satij9fa(^tion to nie, howevev^ lio reflect;, thfitif I.had not e^^amii^ed this v^y <:op^r |kal|le inlet» it would ^^^veil^^ejQ^u^ilumed!!^^ tiTe fiiOMri^aJcMDi pf g^Pgf^pfcr? ^ ^ W^ tif$M )smmn iiicsted wiJbh th^ seti. to the ]Nocwi,;or iwiAJ^aflj^^LV rf^f Koidsira^s Bayi^o theE^ist j^w^ Ib future inap* of the i^oplo^ ipp {greater pr^ci«»qu,^ pd more certain signs of reaUty, W9n the iuYAipiH^ie jkecause imaginary, Streightji, of de Ft|co anid j^e Before Capt. €ook- lunt King with two armed boats, with oirdi^f^ to laa4 a point of lan4> ^^ the S. E* side of the Jriv^j tq lay tbiC flag th^^i ^ t9)f«|X)|^«ll9ioi|L,of tl)^ cowntrj: nY^4i,ilu9]^|^!^^ ^d tA h^y i^ tli!e^ :| h^. 414 CAPf AIX COOK S ... ! coin, of the year 1772, and a paper, on which was inscribed thie names of the ships, and date of the dis. covery. On this accoiint, this point of land was railed Point Possession. Th6 natives of the adjoining^ igkinds hnd coast, who traflick^d much with the crews of the two ships, ^hjile tfiev Were exploring' the river, seemed td bear sach a stri^iii^ resemolance to ihe inhabitants of P^n<|;e WilHana's Siouiid, that a description oftheoi is quite umiedessalry. To the preceding reflections on I Ihe disc^bvery of thi^ river, Captain Cot>k adds^ tliatl ** there is ikot the leastf.dbubt, that a Very beneficial fiiri trade kn^gfht! be cdi'ried on with the inhabitants of thisl vast coast ; but that unless a northern passage should bel found ^t^cticabje, it's6ems rather too remote for 6vdit| ' firitaiii to receive any emolument from it." ' " I ' Having cleared the mouth of Cbok'is River, on tliel dth of June, the captain steered for several days S. W.| by W. as the coast lay, being continually within si^t df the continent, among innumerable islaujAsi and gehe- rally in thick foggy weather. i .it >v;;*.oi. ) ; -n ' On the 18th, having occasion to send a boat on bpat the Dikovervy one of the peopl^ in he* lotaver b^utifol bird of the hawk kind. It is s .vHat'lbs than a duck, and of a bTadk colour, except the ,fotei lakti of the \kp9d, which is white ; and from above and betend ^ch'ey^^aiis^ati elegant yellowiish White crest] r^b)V(^ tnMikwanf k^k rarn^s horn. The bill and " di^ 'H&f.-' 'captain Cook conjedtui-^s it to be the i Mo^bcf^ bf mell^ir, me^ntioned in th^ hisitory ofK^tj 8dhi$ka. 'i Several of llkese birds Wer6 afterwards seeoj a^j'iltb^tini^s in large flocks. ' ^'Oi^ the' 19th some natives, in three or foUr canotsJ who had been following the Discoveiy for some time] at length got under her stem. One of them then made ri^uy signls, taking off his cap and bowings after the European nianner. ' A rope being handed dowq, tr this m fat^^iied del^all thin wooden <^^^f ^^^ > ^^ hid^itfg tf^^d this s^e, andsptil^^ethm^^ MimUfsie nitdt^signiil the ciikdk^tomM^ 1^ Hie Discovery. No one on board had any suspicion ^ thai THIRD VOYAGE. 41^ ' u the box contained any thing till after the departure. the canoes, when it was accidentally opened, and niece of paper was found, folded up carefully, upon f^ch sppoethinff was written in the Russian lan&^a^e, «wa3.i|iupposed. The date 1778 was prt fixed to it; md ii^ t)ie oody of the written note^ there was a refer- flice to the year 1776. No one being learned enough decypher the alphabet of the writer, liis numerals; garkicd sufficiently that others had precede^ us in visjitr i^this dreary part of the globe, who were united to i^y ptber ties i^sides those of our common nature ;. 't^ hopes of soon meeting with some of the Russian [ers^icoiild not but give a sensible satisfaction to those Ifbohad, for luch a length of time, been conversant 1^ the savages of the Pacific Oceau, and of the conr^ icnt yf^ North Amei-ica. . Qaptain Clerke was, at first, of opinion, that some) o^siansliad been shipwrecked here; and that these^ Infbrtunate persons seeing the ship pass, had taken thi§ hethod to inform them of their situation. Impressed Ifith humane sentiments on such an occasion, ne 'Waa sirpus of stopping till they might lave time to jbiu e ships. But no such idea occurred to Capt. ^ook^ iwhqn^ it seemed obvious, that if this had been tl^ ise^ it would have been the first step taken by suck hipwrecked persons, in order to secure to, themselves, id to their companions, the relief they could not but t solicitous about, to send some of their body off to the aps in the canoes. For this reason, he rather though^ ^e. paper contained a note of infoi'mation, left bj ^iRttssian tradei-s, who had l^ely been among the96 tjs, tobe delivered to the next of their countrymea Mihonl^ arrive ; and that the nntives, seeing the ships s, and supposing them to be Russians, had reaolyed ibriog off tne note, thinking it might induce, them t<^ Fully convinced of thiSf Captain Cook did na^, to enquire any farther into the matter, bat ma^a »and stood away to the westwsird. . , tuthe ^U% at n^on. Captain Cook found Idniseif A. '■> ki^ 'iwOty i(*uT^9^ 1 1, I •4X0 CAPTAIN cathCs iWeakersnbw fctrticd Wa so far f rdinflie cdntinent, thail Tii^ li^&d bid: a distant viel^ of the ecastWtyifetn Ro^i PoiiitaMHfi;!libtit Istand. Overtl^s aifd tf^^dinmd hit^A^ He could iiee the main land covered %9miBiMiwl bat j^fttoilatly s(dme hills^ whose elevaied 't^{)s wc . ii^ toWeiii^ abchre the clonds, to a most siC^ti^Q h^^Yft. The most sdiith westerly of l^ese Win was dia cbVi^fed t6 hsive a'^okapo, whicK t^latintmllyihrewi "^asi cbKttnm bf %tdick iiiioke. It sUi^dsnotfarf*^ th^ c6n^i jBiiid tti th«; Iktitude of 54 d^^. 49 ttiin. anl the hrigitade c^ \W;deg. 4^ n^^ It-^ ^flsoienntrkl able from its figtfr^, whTch is a conjldl/tle 'pooe ;, an thii Vokaiio is at i/r cloudy someti^e^ two tbi^, one aboK^e another, wonki embrace the middle likie ^ ?ird9e; wffioh with the coh^inn of smoke, risin] piBi|^idtCfilartry a great height out of its top, and spr tn^ b'mire the wind into a tail of vast length, made i i»ic)i|]i^sqae ^pp^rance. It may be worth remarking th^t the wina, at the height to winch the smoke i thi^ ^tano reached, moved sometimes in a directio eoitttrary to what it did at sea, even when it ble^ cfi^lrgalco ^ ^In the afteri&bon, having three hours calm, tbe^ pie caught upwards of a hundred halibuts, some t^iph weighedao hundred pounds. This yas Ib^y seasonable refreshment. In the hei^hfof t! fishmg, which was three or four mjtler fi^'tt ^h<^ Ik smak canoe, condtrcted by one man, esii tOi'^em from an adjacent island. On a^roaclrii ttt^ l>lHp, hfi tool; oft* his cap, and bowed as tii ^i^Hcf hai^ d dne, who visited the Discovery the fn i^ikg d^y . it was evident, that the Russians mnj m^'a-'^dmnsmtidition and tra^ffle With these peopll not' only froju their acquired pdfitene^, but mn m iioU^ iHMhg^ mentionfisdi But ^<^ wss lioj ft 'flesh ptoof of itj for this visitor wore a THIRD VOYAGE. 417 |«f gvetn cloth breeches, Q.n^ a. jacket of black cloth, m stuffy under the gut, shirt or frock pf his own [country. He had nothing to barter, except a grey fox skiuy and some fishing iuiplenients or harpoons ; tbe beads of the shaft of which, for the length of a (opt, or more,, were neatly made of bone, as a walk- ing<^qaue, and caiTed. He had with him a bladder, full Ifrf nomethiug whi'Ch was supposed to be oil; for he jopiBuedit, took a mouthful, and then fastened it again. On the 26^h, although it was .day-light, the wea- IdM^'i'V^as so thick.find foggy, ttipit tliey could not see h uandred yards^ before tnem; but, as the wind was myf moderate, the captain ventured to run.; At half Ipast four, he w^s. alarmed at hearing the sound of breakers on his larboard bow. On heaving the lead, lie found twenty^eight fathoms water ; and the next least, twenty-five. He immediately brought the ship to, and anchored in this last dq)th; calling to the Discovery which was clo4se by, to anchor also. A few burs after, the fog having cleared away a little, it appeared that he had escaped inmiinent danger* He found himself three quarters of a uiile from the North East side of au island, which extended from South by NA'est Vlf West, to Noi.;h by East half ii^tist, each extreme about a leagup distant. Two elevated rocks, the oae bearing South by East, and the othei" East ])y South, were about half a league each fiom the ships, and about the same distance from each other. There were several breakers about them; and yet, providence M, in the dark, con an upper garment like a shirt, made of | the large gut of sea aniu^s, probably the whale ; and ail under garment of the same shape, made of the skin of birds, dressed with the feathers on, and neatly sewed together; the feathered side being worn next to thei skin. It was mended, or patched, with pieces of silk stuff; and his cap was oraamented with two or three sorts of glass beads. His own clothes being wet, Cap- tain Cook gave him others, in which he dressed him- self, with as much ease as the captain could have done. I From his behaviour, and that of some others, he was convinced that these people were no strangers to Euro- peans, and to some of their customs. But there was something in the ships that greatly excited their curio- sity ; for such as could not come off in canoes, assem- bled on the neighbouring^ hills to look at them. Soon after they anchored, a native brought on I bo^rd such another note as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to Captain Cook ; but it waa written THIRD VOYAGE. 419 \rrittenin the Russian lan^ag'e, which, as already observed, none of them could read. As it could be of no Use to Captain Cook, and might be of consequence to others, he returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few presents; for which he expressed his thanks, by making several low bows as he retired. In walking next day along the shore. Captain Cook met with a group of natives of both sexes, seated on the grass, at a repast, consisting of raw fish, which they seemed to eat with as much reUsh as we should a turbot, served up with the richest sauce. Thick fogs, and a contrary wind, detained him till the 2d of July ; which aflbrdeaanopportunity of acquiring some know- ledge of the country, and of its inhabitants. Captain Cook left Oonalashka on the 2d of July, 1778, and proceeded Northward. On the 3d of August,. he lost Mr. Anderson, surgeon, who had oeen linger- bg under a consumption upwards of a year. To per- petuate the memory of this valuable man, to whom he j lad been indebted for many judicious observations in natural history, an i.^land disovered soon after his de- I cease, was called Andersc n*s Island. On the 9th Cap- tain Cook came in sight of the most westerly point of I all Affi^nca hitlierto known, to which he gavi> the name of Cape Prince of Wales. This Cape situated iaiat. 65 aeg. 49 min. and in the long, ol i91 deg. 45min. Hence we stood over to a point of lan^, which foims ttie eaistern extremity of the continent of I Asia, distant from Cape Prince of Wales about 1^ igues. This, as it appeared in the sevjuel, is the I country of theTschutski, explored by Beeriog in 1728. Captain Cook anchored on the S. W. side of this Cape, in a bay, to which it being the XOth of August, I lie gave the name of St. Lawrence. As we were standing into this bay, we perceived on I the Noi'th shoiC, a village, and some people whom the tight of the ships seemed to have thrown into confu- sion or fear. We could plainly see persons ixinning up the country with burthens upon their backs. At these Ihabitations we purposed to land, and accordingly, went pith three armed boat3, accompanied by some of th^ S'^ officers 9 ^f I 420 CAT*rAIN roO'K-S officers. About 30 or 4'J men, each armed withal spontoon, a bow and ari'ows, stood drawn on a risino* ground close by thcs vilhii^e. As we drew near, thr^ of them came down towards the ship, and were so polite as to take ofi' their caps, and to make us hvrl bows. We returned the civility, but this did not inspire them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing ; for the moment we put the boats iishorej they retired. The captain followed them ashore without arms; and by signs and gestures prevailed on them to stop, and to receive some trifling presents. In return for these they gave us two fox-skins, and a| couple of sea horse teeth. They seemed very fearful and cautious ; oxpressinofl their desire, by signs, that no more of our peoplej should be permitted to come up. On my laying myl liand on the shoulder of one of them, he started backl several paces. In proportion as I advanced, theyl retired backwards ; always in the attitude of beingl ready to make use of their spears ; while those on the! rising ground stood ready to support them with their| arrows. Insensibly, myself, and two or three of mj companioHs, got in amongst them. A few beads dis-J tributed to those about us, soon created a kind of confidence; so that they were not alarmed whenal few more of our people joined us ; and, by degrees! a sort of traffic commenced. In exchange for knivesj beads, tobacco, and other articles, they gave us somel of their clothing, and a few arrows. But notliing'j that we had to offer could induce them to part withl a spear or a bow. These they held in constant readi-j ness, ne\er once quitting them, except at one tiineJ when four or five persons laid theirs down, while theyl gave us a song and a dance. And even then, they| placed them in such a manner, that they could lay hold of them in an instant ; and, for their security, thej desired us to sit down. The arrows were pointed with eiilier bone or stoneJ but very few of them had barbs ; and some had al round plump point. What use they may be appliedl W, we coiuld not say, m^ess to kill small animalsj - without! THIRD VOYAGE. 421 j without tlamaf^in^ the skin. The bows were such us we had seen on the American coast. The spears or fpontoons, ivere of iron or steel, and European or Asiatic workmanship ; in which no little pains had been taken to ornament them with carving, and inlayings 1 Dt' brass, and of a white metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, had the jfpear slung over their right shoulder by a leathern I strap. A leathern quiver slung over the left shoulder, contained arrows; and some of these quivera were extremely beautiful, being made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments. Several other things, and particularly their clothing, shewed that they were possessed of a degree of inge- nuity far surpassing what one could expect to find among so nortnern a people. All the Americans we had seen since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek bones. The people we now were among, far from resembling them, had long visages, and were stout and well made. In short, they appeared to be quite a different nation. We saw neither women, nor children of either sex, nor any aged, except one man who was bald headed, and he was the only one who carried no arms. The others seemed to be picked men, and rather under than above the middle age. The old man had a black mark across his face> which I did not see in any others. All of them had their ears bored; and some had glass beads hanj^ing to them. These were the only iixed orna- ments we saw about them, for they wear none in the lips. This is another thing in which they differ from the Americans we had lately seen. Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of glovers, all made of leather, or of the skins of deer, dogs, seals, 8ic. and extremely well dressed, some with the hair or furs on ; but others without it. The caps were niiide to fitihe head very close: and besides these caps, which most of them wore, w^e got from them some hoods, made of ^kift8 of dogs, that were larga enough ta cover both h^ad. 422 CAPTAIN COOK S head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to he black J but their heads were either shaved, or the hair ci:itclos off; and none of them wore any beard. Of the fe\ articles which they got from us, knives and tobaccol were what they valued most. We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter habitations. The latter are exactlyl like a vault, the floor of which is sunk below the smJ face of the earth. One of them, which we examined I was of an oval fonn, about 20feet long, and 12 or morel high. The framing was composed of wood, and the! ribs of whales, disposed in a judicious manner, and! bound together with smaller materials of the same sort.! Over this framing is laid a covering of strong coai-sel grass ; and again is covered with earth ; so that on the| outside the house looks like a little hillock, supported by a wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is| built romid the two sides, and one end. At the other end, the earth is raised sloping, to walk up to thel entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof over! that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind! of cellar, in which I saw nothing but water. And atl the end of each house was a vaulted room, which we| took to be a store-room. After a stav of between two and threie hours withl these people, Capt. Cook returned to his ships, and weighing anchor, proceeded northward, keeping the coast of America as near as j^ossible on board. On the I 17th, we perceived a brightness in the northern hori*| zon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called thel blink. It Mas little noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable that they vshould meet with ice so soon. I And yet the sharpness of the air, and gloominess of the weatner for two or three days past, seemed to indicate a sudden change. About half an hour after, the sight of a large field of ice left them in no doubt about the cause of the brightness of the horizon. About half past two we tacked close to the edge of the ice, in 22 fa- thoms water, being then in the lat. of 70 deg. 41 miitJ not being able to stand qu any farther, for the ice was I . - > t quite! THIRB VOYAGE. 423 yte impenetrable, and extending from W. by S. to kby N. as far as the eye could reach. Here were libundance of sea-horses, some on the water, but more Imon the ice. I The next day at noon, we were close to the edge of. Ijiie ice, which was as compact as a wall, and seemecl Itobe 10 or 12 feet high at least; but farther noHh, it npeared much higher. Its surface was extremely r^ed; and here and there we saw upon it pools of ater. At this time they were three or four miles from American coast, which extended from S. to 8. E. E. The eastern extreme formed a point, which was inch incumbered with ice, for which reason it obtain- Ithe name of Ice Cape. Its lat, is 70 deg. 29 min. nd its long. 198 degr 20 min. On the 19th, they found a gclod deal of drift ice out them, and the main ice was about two leagues I the N. At half past one they got in with the edge fit. It was not so compact as that which they had eu to the northward ; but it was too close, and in too rge pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. On le ice lay a prodigious number of sea horses, and as eywere in want of fresh provisions, the boats from icn ship went to get some. By seven in the evening, they had received on board I Resolution nine of these animals; which, till now, ey had supposed to be sea-cows, so that they were otahttle disappointed, especially some of the seamen, iiho, for the novelty of the thing, had been feasting eir eyes for some days past, ^lor would they have en disappointed now, nor have known the differ- iice, if they had not happened to have one or two on card, who had been at Greeidand, and declared what iiimals they were, and that no one ever eat of th^jm. But notwithstanding this, they lived upon them as long sthey lasted; and there were few on board who did ot prefer themto salt meat. They lie in herds of many hundreds upon the ice, uddliug one over the other like swine, and roar or bray 424 CAPTAIN cook's bray very loud ; so that in the night or fog'g^ weathcrj they gave us notice of the vicinity of the ice, before vt could sec it. We never found the whole herd asleepj f;ome being always upon the watch ; these on the ap^ proach of the boat, would wake those next to thenij and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, tin whole herd would be awake presently ; but they wert seldom in a hurry to get away, till they had been onc^ fired at, then they would tumble the one over the othei into the sea in the utmost confusion. The female will defend the young to the very last, at the expence of heJ own life, whether in the water or upon the ice. NoJ will the young one quit the dam, though she be deadj ISO that if you kill one you are sure of the other. It is worth obseiTing, that for several days wc had frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the south) ward. They were of two sorts, the one much largeJ than the other. The largest were of a brown colour] and of the small sort, either the duck or drake wa black and white, and the other brown. Does no this indicate that there must be land to the nortli where these birds find shelter in the proper season tJ breed, and from whence they were now returning to i warmer clhnate? From this day to the 29th, Capt. Cook kept beatiiij along the edge of the ice, from th'^ American to till Asiatic coast, with intent, if possible, to penetrate ill and proceed to the northward ; but without effect, one time, he was in a manner surrounded by the ic(j and had no way left to clear it, but by standing to tli South vvaril. Afterwards, having fallen in with tl main ice, they were directed how to keep along thl edge of it, l)y the roaring of the sea-horses. Oh the 27th, Capt. Cook went with the boats 1 examine the state of the ice. He found it consistinj of loose pieces of various extent, and so close togethej that he could hardly enter the outer edge with a boaj and it was as impossible for the ships to enter it, as if j had been so many rocks. He took particular uotie^ thj^ THIBB VOTAGB. 4^5 (bat it was all pure transparent ice, except the upper lurface, which was a little porous. It appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea. For, setting aside the impro- bability, or rather impossihility, of such hu^e masses floating^ out of rivers, in which there is hardly water I for a boat, none of the productions of the laiid were I found incorporated, or fixed in it ; which must have unavoidably been the case, had it been formed in rivers, either great or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the field, were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four or five ; and he judged, Ibat the 1 irger pieces reached thirty feet, or more gnder the surface of the water. It also appeared to lliim very improbable, that this ice could have been [the production of the preceding winter alone. I jjhould suppose it rather to have been the production lof a great many winters. Nor was it less improbable, according to my judgment, that the little that remain- led of the summer, could destroy the tenth part of what Igow subsisted of this mass; for the sun had already «xerted upon it the full influence of his rays. It is the [find, or rather the waves raised by the wind, that rings down the bulk of these eUormous masses, by rinding one piece against another. We measured tlie epth of one piece of ice, .and found it to be fifteen et, so that the ships might have sailed over it. If, I |kid not measured this depth, I would not have be- eved that there was a sufficient weight of ice ove the suiface, to hiave sunk the other so n^uch elow it. On the 29th, Captain Cook proceeded northward, ^iar as Cape North, on the coast of Asia; this Cape determined to weather, being convinced that the St beyond it must take a westerly direction, as he iild see li6 land to the nonhward of it, though the lorizon was then pretty clear. Being disappointed in «8 attempt, the captain now found that tjlie season pteso tar advatice4, and the time, when the frost was i^pected to set in so near at hand, that he could not "•nk it prudent to make any farther attempts to iiiwl ? 9 lihh a passage 426 CAPTAIN COOK*S a passae^e into the Atlantic this year, in any clireftion His attention, therefore, was now directed to find oui some place, where he might be supplied with woo( and water ; and the first object in his thong-hts was how he should spend the winter, so as to make soui^ improvements in Geography and Navigation, and the same time be in a condition to return to the Nortj in fii^i'ther search of a passage the ensuing summer. CHAP. VH, Jleturn to the Southward — Burney^s Islmid — Pass tl JEastemCape of Asia — Description and situation ( it — Arrival at Norton Smmdr— Interview fi^nh /i naUves-^Description of the Russian settlement ( Oonalaska — Mowee arid Owhi/hee, two of the iknt^ ' wich Islands, discovered — The natives refuse drink stigar-cane beer, LEAVING these dreary regfions of ice and sno^ Captain Cook now steered Southward, andi the 31st of August, 1778, passed by a small islan] about three leagues from the main, in the lat. of deg, 45 min. The next day he came in sight oil pretty lofty promontoi^, in the lat of 67 deg. 3 mil and in long. 188 deg. 11 min. He was now w( assured, that this was the country of the Tschutski, i the N. E. coast of Asia, and that this Cape wastl limit of Beering's voyage in 1728. On the 2d of September, they had fair weath and sun shine, of which, for near five days before, tt had been deprived ; as they ranged along the coa at the distance of four miles, they saw several of inhabitants, and some of their habitations, which J ed like little hillocks of earth. In the evening they j sed the Eastern Cape ; the same point of land wli they had passed on the IJth of August; and fn which the coast changes its direction, and tends S. \ They who believed implicitly in Mr. Staelln's rd thought it then to be the East point of his isW Alaschka; but they were satisfied, by this time, til THIRD VOYAGE. 427 it could be no other than the Eastern promontory of Isia ; and, probably, the proper Tschukotskoi Noss ; though the promontory to which Beering' ^ave that Ume, is farther to the S. W. However Capt. Cook concluded, as Beerinff did before him, that this is the Biost easterly point of Asia. It is a peninsula of con- Lilerable hei^tit, joined to the continent by a very loW» ind, to appearance, narrow, neck of land. It seems I steep rocky cliff next the sea; and off the point are |gome rocks like spires. After passing tnis Cape, Captain Cook steered for |t)ie Nortnern point of St. Lawrence Bay, in which he anchored on the 10th of August. He reached [it the next morning, and saw some of the inhabitants ^the place where he had seen them before, as well ^several others on the opposite side of the bay. None . loftheni, however, attempted to come off to the shi|)8y Iwluch he thought a little extraordinary, as the weatbor If as favourable enough; and those whom he had lately pisited, had no reason that he could think of, to dislike Itheir visitors. ■ These people must be the Tschutski, i nation that the Russians had not been able to con- aer; and from the whole of their conduct with us,^ [it appears that they have not brought them under sub- ction, though it is obvious they must have a trade ifith the Russians, either directly, or by the means ■some neighbouring nation; as we cannot others lise account for their being in the possession of the Spontoons, in particular, of which we took notice. Captain Cook gave the name of St. Lawrence to lis bay, on accowit of hrs having anchored in it on loth of August. This bay is,' at least, five leagues id at the entrance, and four leagues deep, narrow owards the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably lell sheltered from the sea-winds, provided there be iicient depth of water for ships. The captain, how- rer, did not wait to examine it, although he was very siroiis of finding an harbour in those parts, to which I might resort next spring. But he wanted one where WM to be got; an article,. in which he well knew mih2 this 'ill I I i 4^ CAPTAIN cook's this place to be deficient. In the afternoon, in tli^ I direction of their coui-se, they saw what was first taken for a rock, but it proved to be a dead whale, which some natives of the Asiatic coast had killed, and were towing^ ashore. They seemed to conceal themselves I behind the fish, to avoid being* seen ; but this was un- necessary, as the captain pursued his course, without] taking any notice of^ them. On the 4th of September, he ceased to follow the! direction of the coast, as he found that it teudedl westerly, towards the gulf of Anadir, into which he| had no inducement to go. He therefore steered to tl-e Southward, and in the evening came in sight of Beering's Island of St. Lawrence. He was now about twelve leagues from the Southernmost point oi the mam land, wnich bore south, 85 min. West. Thig he took to be the point which Beering calls the Eas^ point of Snchotski, or Cape Tschukotski; a name which he gave it with propriety, because it was fron this part of the coast that the natives came off to himJ who call themselves of the nation of the Tschutskil Captain Cook makesi its lat. to be 64 deg. 13 min] and its long. 186 deg*. 36 min. Being thus perfectly convinced that he was on th^ coast of Asia, and not on the East side of the grea island called Alaschka, he now stood over to the coa of America, in hopes of finding it there. He wa rather induced to spend some time in search of thij island, as it is represented to abound with woodj which Avas greatly wanted by both ships. On the 8th, he arrived at a Sound laying betwee^ two points of land, one of which to the North, ilamed Cape Derby, and the other to the South, Caj Denbigh. This inlet, which (in honour of Sir Fletche Norton, now Lord Grantham) he named Nor Sound, extends to the Northward as far as lat, 64 deg 54 min. Here they found water, and plenty of drii wood. He staid here till the 17th, occasionally landing not only to procure wood and water, but to refresh tli men, who wertJ alternately sent on sh^re tofeed on tJi berrie THIRD VOYAGE. 429 Lrries and to cut brooms, of which they were in want^ L(l the braiicheii of spruce trees for beer. He likewise lient lieutenant King*, with a party of men, in two l|)oats, to explore.the sound, and to land on the adjacent Ikei^hts. From the result of lieutenant Kind's obser- vations, he was perfectly satisfied that Mr. Steehlin'ti lisland was quite ima^inar}'; and in the sequel, he ■found that the name of Alaschka is ^iven both by the IRuiisians and natives to th(% American continent in lireneral, although it properly belongs to a very pro- lujcting cape adjoining* to the island ot Onamaka. I During Capt. Cook's stay in ti:is sound, he had lioine intercourse with the natives. A family of them 16 near to the place where we were tuking off [wood. — I know not how many there were at first; but louly saw the husband, the wife, an4 the child; and Ufciu'th person, that bore the human shape, and that was all; for he was the most deformed cripple I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was almost blind; and neither he nor his wife were such good looking people as yfe had sometimes seen amongst the luatives of this coast. The under lips of both were |lH)i'ed; and they had in their possession some such Ulass beads as I had n^et with before amongst their beigbjours. But iron was their beloved article. For jfour knives, which we had made out of an old iron. », I got from them near 400 pounds weight of fish, Iwhich they had caught on this or the preceding day. Having finished the necessary occupations at Nortoii Sound, Capt. Cook thought it liigh time to think of leaving these northern regions; and to retire to som^ place during the winter, where he n^ght procure rei» (reshments for his people, and a small supply of provi* lious. Petropaulowska, or the harbour of St. Peter and St, Faul, in Kamtschatka, did not appear likely to fur* aish either the one or the other, for so la,rge^ a idumber Ufmen. He had, besides, other reasons for not repair* lag thither at this, time. The first, and onwhicUi^U others depend^d^ was the great dislike to Ue iiim^ctiv^, (or aix or seven months, which would have been the necessary I mi* • 430 CAPTAIN COOK S necessary consequence of wintering* m any of these northern parts. No place wm"^ so conveniently within! his reach, where he could e>:pect to have his wants relieved, as the Sandwich Islands. To them therefore he determined to proceed; after first endeavourino- to find a harbour on the continent of America, to the southward, where he could meet with a farther sui)- ply of water. Leavin-v Norton Sound on the 17th, Captain Cook successively saw Besboroug-h Island, Stuart's Island,) Gierke's Island, Gore's Island, and Pinnacle's Island.! But neither among* these, nor along the coast, could he find an harbour, where he could procure the wishedfor supply of water. It is here to be observed, that no land was to be seen to the southward of Point! Shallovi^ Water, which he judged to lie in the lat. of I 63 deg*. so that between this lat. and Shoal Ness, inf the lat. of 60 deg*. the coast is entirely unexplored. At length on the 2d of October, he again arrived at the island of Oonalashka, and hauled into a bay, known j by the name of Egoochshack, lying ten miles to the ■westward of the harbour of Samganooda, where he had " formerly anchored ; but finding very deep water in this bay, he was glad to g*et out again. The natives, many I of whom lived here, visited them at different times, bringing with them dried salmon and other fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for tobacco. But a few days before every ounce of tobacco that was in the ship, had been distributed among them; and the quan- tity was not half sufficient to answel' their demands.] Notwithstanding this, so improvident is an English sai- lor, that they were as profuse in making their bargains,! as if they had now arrived at a port in Virgniiaj by which means, in less than 48 hours, the value of this j article cf barter was lowered above 1000 per cent. On the 3d they anchored in Samganooda harbourj| and the carpenters were employed in repairing a leak, which the Resolution had sprung, ih her passage from I Norton Sound. The vegetables Siat iiad been here met 'i^-H^'- :■ '• . -;«'ii:' i{!'.iJ:;}>U<; ■ . witb,| THTKD VOYAGE. 431 with, were now mostly in a state of decay ; so that they were but little benefited by the q^reat quantity of ber- ries every where found ashore. That they might avail themselves as much as possible of this useful refresh- ment, one third of the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them. Considerable quantities of them were also procured from the natives. If there were any signs of the scurvy in either ship, these berries, and the use of spruce beer, which they had to drink every day, eftecttially eradicated them. The fishery likjewise enabled them to make a considerable saving of their sea provisions. And at this island, the captain found a Russian settlement or factory, for procuring of the skins of sea otters. Mutual civilities passed between the captain and the chiefs of this settlement; trom whom he pix)cured much useful information; and by whose means he dispatched a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, (inclosing" a, ifjiart of all the northern coast he had visited) which ^^jis to be forwarded the ensuing spring to Major Behm, governor of Kamtschatka, and by him the following winter to Petersburgh. Capt. Cook continued at Oonajashka till the 26th of October 1778, But before we proceed farther in the voyage, we shall give his account of several in- teresting particulars relative to this island. After we became acquainted with these Russians, some of our gentlemen, at different times, visited their settlement on the island ; where they always met with a most hearty welcome. This settlement consisted of a dwelling-house, and two store-houses. And, besides the Russians, there was a number of the Kamtschadales, and of the natives, as servants or slaves to the former. Some others of the natives who seemed independent of the Russians, lived at the same place. Such of them ajl belonged to the Russians were all males ; and they are taken, or perhaps, purchased from their parents when jfoung. There were at this time, about twenty of these, who could be looked upon in no other light |iau as cliildreu. They all live in the same house; the Russians at the upper end; the Kamtschadales in the middle; s MWi, 1 H m m ^^JKyrFlfimflD: m nHHrap JjHHti^KJ^^Ej^^Kl H mm Hn 432 CAPTAIN COOK S middle ; and the natives at the lower end ; where is fixed a larj^e boiler for pre])arin^ their food, which consist] chiefly of what the sea produces, with the addition wild roots and beiTies. There is little difference be] tween the first and last table, besides what is produceij by cookery, in which the Kussians have the art to makj indifferent thing^s palatable. I have eaten whale*sflesj ©f their dressing-, which I thought very good ; andt'^ei make a kind of pan-pudding of salmon-roe, beaten uj fine, and fried, that is no bad succedaneum for bread They may, now and then, taste real bread, or have dish in which flour is an ingredient ; but this can onlj be ah occasional luxury. If we except the juice berries, which they sip at their me?Js, they have nj other liquor besides pure water; and it seems to bj very happy for them that they have nothing strongeil As the island supplies them with food, so it does iii a great measure, with eldtmn^. This consists chieflj of skins, and is, perhaps, ''i^e best they could have The upper garment is made like otir waggoner's frocli and reaches as low as the knee. Besides this, tliej wear a waistcoat or two, a pair of breeches, a fu cap, and a pair of boots, the soles and upper leatheij of which are of Kussian leather; but the leg-s are mad of a kind of strong gut. Their two chiefs, Ismyloj find Ivanovitch, wore each a calico frock ; and thej as well as some others, had shirts which were of sill These, perhaps, were the only part of their dress ncj made among themselves. There are Russians settled upon all the princip^ islands between Qonalasl^ka and Kamtschatka for tl: sole purpose of collecting furs. This great object the sea bieaver or otter; J. never heard them enqnii after any other animal; though those whose skins ar of inferior value, are also made part of their carg'oes. never thought to ask how long they htlve had a settle ment upon Oonalashka, and the neighbouring islea but to judge from the great subjection the natives ar under, this cannot be of a very late datie.^ The Russian began to fyequent Oonalasiika in 1762. All thq fiiri^ thiHd voyage. 433 llhries Jire relieved, from time to time, by others. IThose \^ci met with, arrived here from Okotsk, in |l776, and are to return in 1781 ; so that their stay lit the island will be four yeai-s at least. It is now time to ^ive some accomit of the native linhabitants. To all Appearance, they tire the most Ipeaceable, inoffensive people I ever met with. And, Its to honesty, they might serve as a pattern to the l^t civilized nation upon earth. But, from what I Lw of their neighbours, with whom the Russians had U connection, I doubt whether this was their origi- Igal disposition; and i*ather think that it has been the lionsequence of their present state of subjection. In- jieed, if some of our gentlemen did not understand liiie Russians, they had been obliged to make some kvere examples, before they could bring the is1ander» Ibto any order. If there were severities inflicted at jirst, the best apology for them is* that they have l^uced the happiest consequences; and, at present, lie «rreatest harmony subsists between the two nations. The natives have their own chiefs in each island, and einto enjoy liberty and property unmolested. But ihether or no they are tributaries to the Russians, we Id never find out. There was some reason to link that they are* :?' These people are rather low of stature, but plump well shaped, witii i*ather short necks ; swarthy, lith chubby faces, black eyes, small beards, and bns^, straight, black hair, wnich the men wear loose ihlnd, and cut before, but the women tie it up in a onch. Their dress has been occasionally mentioned. Both Kes wear the same fashion ; the only difference is in materials. The women s frock is made of the seal m; and that of the men of the skins of birds, botl^ aching below the knee. 'This is the whole dress oi i women. But over the frock, the men wear ano- er made of the ff nt, which resists water ; and has a to it, which draws over the head. Some of them vear boots ; and all of them have a kind of oval snout- cap, m».de of wood, with a rim to admit the head. 10 lii These 434 CAPTAIN C00K;S These caps are dyed with p^reen and other colours; and round the upper part of the rim are stuck the long bristles of some sea animal, on which are simns glass beads; and on the front is a small image or two made of bone. They make no use of paint, but the women punc- ture their faces slightly ; and both men and women bore the imder lip, to which they fix pieces of bone. But it is as uncommon at Oonalashka, to see a man with this ornament, as to see a woman without it. Some fix beads to the upper lip, under the nostrils; and all of them hang ornaments in their ears. Their food consists of fish, sea animals, birds, roots, and berries; and even of sea weed. They dry li quantities of fish in summer, which they lay up m small huts for winter use ; and, probably, they pre- serve roots and berries for the s.ame time of scarcity. They eat almost every thing raw. Broiling and boil- ing wert; the only methods of cookery that I saw them make use of; and the first was very probably learnt from the Russians. Some have got little brass ket- tles; and those ^ho have not, make one of a flat stone, with sides of clay, not unlike a standing pye. I was once present, when the chief of Oonalashka niade his dinner of the raw head of a large halibut, just caught. Before any was given to the chief tr^o of his servants eat the gills, without any other dres- sing, besides squeezing out the slime. This done, one of them cut off the head of the fish, took it tol the soa and washed it, then came with it and sat down by the chief, first pulling up some grass, upoai , a part of which the head was laid, and the restwasl strewed before the chief* He then cut large piecesj off the cheeks, and laid thes^; within the reach of the great man, who swallowed them with as mucbl satisfaction as we should do raw oysters. Whenhel had done, the remains of the head were cut IdI {Heces, and given to the attendants M^ho 101*6 o£ the meat with their teeth, and gnawed the bonesj like so many dogs. fcj« • by the New EtoUanders, and pro- lliably by many other nations, Nq such thing as an offensive or defensive weapon |fa!$ seen amonjs^st the natives of Oonalashka. >Ve bnnot suppose that the Russians found them in such a fenceless state ; it is more probable that, for their Lvii security, they have disarmed them. Political [reasons too may have induced the Russians not to allow Ithese islanders to have any larg-e canoes; for it is dif* licult to believe they had none such originially, as we found tliem amongst all their neig^hbouts. However, Ue saw none Ivy e but one or two belonging to the [Russians. T! .>cs made use of by the natives, gre the smalk^^ had any wiiere seen upon th^ American coast; tiiough built after the same m;in- ner, with some Uttle difference in the construction. ha the management of their canoes, they make use pf the double-bladed paddle, which is held with both liands in the middle, striking the water with a quick regular motion, first on one side, then on the other. By this means the canoe is impelled at a g^eat rate, and in a direction as straight as a line can be drawn, {n saihng from Egoochshak to Samganooda, two or th|ree canoes kept way with the ship> though she was going at the rate of seven miles an hour. Their fishing and hunting implements differ very little from those used by tne Greenlanders, as tliey hire described by Crantz. With respect to the fish- eries in t]>e seas, halibut and salmon seem to be in the greatest plenty ; and on them the inhabitants of Ibese isles subsist chiefly ; at le^st they were the only sort of fish, except co<}, which we observed to be I laid up for their winter store, On Monday the 26th, Captain Cook left this island. His intention -^'ds to proceed to the Sandwich islands, I there to spend a few of the winter months, and then I to go to Kamschatka, so as to endeavour to be there by the middle of May the ensuing snmmer. On th^ ^6th of Nov. he discovered Mowee, and on the 30th Pwbyhe«, \\ I 438 CAFTAIN COOK S Owhyhee, two of the Sandwich Islands. In plyii between these two islands, they had an occasional traffic with the natives of Owhyhee for provisions : never met with a behaviour so free from reserve an^ suspicion in my intercourse with any tribes of sava^ej as we experienced in the people of this island. " It was very common for them to send up in the ship tht several articles they brought oft' for barter; afterJ ward, they would come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quarter deck. The people oi Otaheite, even after our repeated visits, did not carel to put so much confidence in us. I infer from this] that tho^e of Owhyhee must be more faithful in their dealings with one another than the inhabitants oi| Otaheite are. For if little faith were observed amon^ themselves, they would not be so ready to trust tc strangers. It is also to be observed, to their honourj that they never once attempted to cheat us in ex- changies, nor to commit a tneft. They understand! trading as well as most people, and seemed to com-l prehend clearly the reason of our plying upon theirl coast. For though they brought off provisions inl •great plenty, particularly pigs, yet they kept upl their price; and rather than dispose of them for lessl than they thought they were worth, would take themj ashore ao^ain. Having procured a quantity of sugar-cane; and I having upon trial, made but a few days ago, found! that a strong decoction of it produced a very palata- ble beer, I ordered some more to be brewed, for our I general use. But when the cask was now broached, not one of our crew even so much as tasted it. As 1 had no motive in preparing this bevei*age, but to save oar spirits fqr a colder climate, I gave myself no trou- ble, either by exerting authority, or by having recourse I to persuasion, to prevail on them to drink it; knowing that there was no danger of the scurvy, so long as we | f;ould get a plentiful supply of other vegetables. But, that I might not be disappointed in my views, I gave I orders that no grog should be served in either ship. 1 1 myselfy -and tlie officers, continued to moke use of • this ,/ THIRD VOTAGG. 439 sugar-cane beer, whenever We could get mote- for brewing" it. A few hops, of which wf had KMne on board, improved it much. It has the itast^ if new small beer ; and I believe no one will doubt (fits being very wholesome. And yet my incon- iderate crew alledged it was injurious to their health. They had no better reason to support* a I'esolution, fhich they took on our first arrival in King George's goimd, not to drink the spruce beer made there, fiut, whether from a consideration that it was not the first time of their being required to use that liquor, or {rom other reason, tney did not attempt to carry thfir Mirpose into actual execution; and I had never heard \i it till now, when they renewed their ignorant op- Msition to my best endeavours to serve them. Every unovation whatever, on board a ship, though ever so BQch to the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet ifith their highest disapprobation. But pc^itable soup, m sour crout were, at first, condemned as stuff unfit W human beings. Few commanders have introduced linto their ships more novelties, as useful .varieties of and drink, than I have done. Indeed, few com* uders have had the same opportunities of trying Inich experiments, or been driven to the same nece%-. |8ty of trying them. It ha£, however, been, in a great neasure, owing to various little deviations from esta- Uished practice, that I have been able to preserve my "e, genei-ally speaking, from that dreadful dis- liemper, the scurvey, which has perhaps destroyed pore of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than [iave fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. Many days were spent in plying, in endeavouring get to the ymdward of Uwhyhee, and to find a broper place for anchorage. At one time the canoes thronged toithe ship with hogs and women. The kter, the captain observed, it was not possible to leepfrom coming on board; no women, he ever met itn, were less reserved; and indeed, it appeared to lira, that they visited the ships witli no other view, Q to make a surrender of their persons. At - 4 ' ' . - - -■■■''■ 440 CAPTAIN COOK*S At length on the KHh of January l77f>, a bay wft« discovered, into which, after he had sent to examine it, Captain Cook resolved to carry the ships. As njHt approached, the greater part of his visitoi's retired to . the shore ; but numbera of them requested his per- mission to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at least with some; for the next mornin"- several things were missing*, which determined him not to entei*tain so many another time. On the 17th, he anchored in this bay, which is called by the natives Karakakooa. The ships conti- nued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. I had no where, in the course of my voyage, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place. For, besides tliose who had come off to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoaisj of fish. We could not but be struck with the sinm larity of this scene ; and peiiiaps there were few onl board who now lamented our having failed in ourenJ deavours to find a Nortlu a passage homeward, last! summer. To this disappointment we owed our hav-l ing it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands,! ancl to enrich our voyage with a discovery, whichJ though the last, seemed, in many respects, to be thel most important that had hitherto been made by Euro^j peans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. dm ^ iJr «^i THIKD VOYAGE. 441 CHAP. VIII. description of Karakakooa Bay-^-Ceremonies at the landing oj Captain Cook — Arrival of Tcrreeoboo, king of the island — Visit from the king, and returned by Captain Cook — Terreeoboo*s magnijicent present — The sliips leave the island — The Uesolntion da- maged in a galCf and obliged to return — Death of Captain Cook, . ||7 ARAKAKOOA Bay, is situated on the W. side JV of the island Owhyliee. It is bounded by two Cints of land, at the distance of half a league, and aring S. S. E. and N. N. W . from each other. On Itbe N. point, which is flat and barren, stands the vil- lage of Kowrowa; and in the bottom of the bay, near la jrove of tall cocoa-nut trees, is another village of a luore considerable size, called Kakooa : between them Imos a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea shore. ■The 8. side of the coast, for about a mile inland^ Iks a rugged appearance ; beyond which the country Itises with a gradual ascent, and is overspread with Icaltivated inclosures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, there the habitations of the natives are scattered in reat numbers. The shore all round the bay, is co- |tered with a black coral rock, which makes the land- ngf very dangerous in rough weather, except at the [illage of Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach, lith a Morai, or burying place, at one extremity, nd a small well of fresh, at the other. In this bay le moored, January 17, 1779, on the N. side, about a p'ter of a mile from the shore, Kowrowa bearing VW. As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention I anchoring in the bay, they came off from the shore lastonishing numbers, and expressed their joy by sing- jig and shouting, and exhibiting a variety ot wddand ftravagant gestures. The decks and rigging of both |ips were soon coippletely covered with them ; and a pitude of women and boys who had not been able 110 Kkk to '^^''^m 442 CAFTAIJI COOKS to get canoes, came swimming round us in shoals* many of whom, not findin&f room on board, remained the whole day playing in tne water. Among' the chiefs who came on board the Resolu- tion, was a young man named Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a person of great authority. On pie- sentinjy himself to Captain Cook, he told him, that he I was Jakanee (we afterwards met with several others of the same denomination ; but whether it be an office or some degree of affinity, W€ could never learn with certainty) to the king of the island, who was at that time engaged on a n^ilitary expedition atMowee,and was expected to return within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook attached him entirelvi to our interests, and he became exceedingly useful to us in the management of his countrymen, as we had| soon occasion to experience. For we had not beei long at anchor, when it was obsei*ved that the Dis- covery had such a number of people hanging on oni side, as occasioned her to heel considerably; and thai the men were unable to keep off the crowds whicl continued pressing into her. Captain Cook, beinj apprehensive that she might suffer some injury, pointed out the danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their assistance, cleared the 6hip of its incum brances, and drove uway the canoes that surrounded her] The authority of the chiefs over the inferior peopli appeared, from this incident, to be of the most des- potic kind. A similar instance of it happened the sann day on board the Resokition ; where the crowd beiu! so great, as to impede the necessary business of thi ship, We were obliged ti> have recourse to the assistant of Kaneena, another of their chiefs, who had likewii attached himself to Captain Cook. The incoHvenii ence we laboured under being made known, he iramej diately ordered his countrymen to quit the vessel, am we were not a little surprised to see them jump ovei board, without a moment's hesitation ; all except onj man, who loitering behind, and shewing^ tome unwif liugnes •5 cruize o THIRD VOYAGE. 443 lin^ness to obe}r, Knneena took him up iu his artnsy and threw him into the sea. Both the chiefs were men of strong and well pro- portioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleasing, especially Kaneeua, who was the finest man 1 ever saw. He was above six feet hijj^h, and regular and expressive features, and lively, dark eyes ; his car- riage was easy, firm, and graceful. ft has been already mentioned, that dunng our long* cruize off this island, the inhabitants had always behaved with ^reat fainiess and honesty in their deal- ings, and had not shewn the slightest propensity to theft ; which appeared to us the more extraordinary, because those with whom he had hitherto held any in- tercourse, were of the lowest rank, either servants or fishermen. We now found the case exceedingly al- tered. The immense crowd of islanders, which blocked up every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunities of pilfering without risk or discovery, but our inferiority in number, held forth a prospect of escaping with impunity in case of detection. Another circumstance, to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the presence and* encouragement of their chiefs ; for generally tracing the booty into the posse-^ion of some men of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect that these depredations were committed at their instigation. Soon as the Resolution had got into her station, our two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, we were told, was a priest, and had been, in his youth, a distinguished warrior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated ligui-e. Being led into thu cabin, he approached Cap- tain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his (houlders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought abng with him. Then stepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a smpil pig, which he held in his liand, whilst he pronounceu a discourse that lasted for a considerable time. This ceremony was frequently re- ipeated during our stay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, Kkka from ♦ 444 CAPTAIN COOK 9 from many circumstances, to be a sort of religioug adoration. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating plentifully of what was set be- fore him ; but, like the rest of the inhabitants of the islands in those seas, could scarcely be prevailed on to taste a second time our wine or spirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended by Mr. Bayley and j Mr. King, accompanied him on shore. We landed ui | the beach, and were received by four men, who car- ried wands, tipt with dog's hair, and marched before i us, pronouncing, with a loud voice, a short sentence, in which we could only distinguish the word Orono. I The crowd, which had been collected on the shore, retired at our approach ; and not a person was to be I seen, .except a fev/ lying prostrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoing village. The next morning the 18th, we went on shore with! a guard of eight marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to erect the observr'ory, iiil such a situation as might best enable me to superin- tend and protect the waterersi, and the other workiot,'! parties that were to be on shore. As we were view-l ing a spot conveniently situated for this purpose, inl the middle of the villao:e, Paveea, who was alwavsl ready to shew both his power and his good-will, of- fered to pull down some houses that would have ob- structed our observations. However, we thought it| proper to decline this ofl'er, and fixed on a field of Sweet potatoes adjoining to the Morai, which was! readily granted uS; and the priests, to prevent ihel intrusion of the natives, immediately consecrated the place, by fixing their wands^ round the wall by whicli it was inclosed. This sort of religious interdiction they call taboo; : word we hear doften repeated, during our stay among these islanders, and found to be a very powerful awl extensive operation. No canoes ever presumed to lanf near us ; the nati^'^s sat on the wall, but none ofiered to come within the tabooed space, till he had obtained Qur pcrmi ?sion. But though the men, at our requestj woul(| THIRD VOYAGE. 445 would come across the field with provisions, yet not all our endeavours could p' evail on the women to ap- proach us. Presents wert • tried, but without effect ; Pareea and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in vain ; we were invariably answered, that the £atooa and Terreeoboo (which was the name of their king) would kill them. This circumstance afforded no small matter of amusement to our fiiends on board, where the crowds of ])eople, and particularly of women, that coilHnued to flock thither, obliged them almost every hour to clear the vessel, in order to have room to do the necessai'y duties of the ship. On these occa- sions, two or three hvmdred women were frequently i made to jump into the water at once, vhere they con- tinued swimming and playing about, till they could again procure admittance. From the 19th to the 24th, nothing very jnaterial I happened. The caulkers were set to work on the sides of the ships, and the rigging was overhauled and repaired. The salting of hogs for sea store, was also one of the principal objects of Captain Cook's atten- tion; in which, notwithstanding it has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flesh of animals by 1 salting, in tropical climates, he was very successful. We had not been long settled at oiu* observatory, Ibefore we discovered, in our neighbourhood, the habi- tations of a society of priests, whose regular attend- ance at the Morai had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood round a pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which scpartited them from the beach and the rest of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On acquaint- jin^ Captain Cook with this, he resolved to pay them h visit ; which he accordingly did, and was received [With nearly the same religious ceremonies as at the iMorai. During the vest of the time we remained in the bay, [whenever Capt. Cook came on shore, he was attended |l»y one of these priests, who went before him, giving ptice that the Orono had landed, and ordered the people 446 CAPTAIN COOKS people to prosti'ate themselves. The same person also I constantly accompanied him on the water, standinjr in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and g'iving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay down on their face^^ till he had passed. Whenever they stopped at the observatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren made their appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, Uread-frnit, i large pearl oyster, with a black nut fixed in the centre; their mouths were set with a double row of the fangs of dogs, and together with the rest of their features, were strangely distorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and vegetables. As they went along, the priests in the centre canoe, sung their hymns with great wlemnity ; and after paddling round the ships, instead of going on board, as we expected^ they made towards l^'Bthe shore at the beach where we were stationed. As soon as I saw tkem approaching, I ordered out r little guard to receive the king ; and Capt. Cook, rceiving that he was going on shore, followed him, d arrived nearly at the same time. We conducted jtlieminto the tent, where they had scarcely been seated, lien the king rose up, and \n a very graceful manner rew over the captain's shoulders the cloak he himself e : put a feathered heliaet upon his head, and a curious )U ilU tlv aw 448 CAPTAIN cook's curious fan in his hand. He also spread at his feet fivcj or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest value. His attendants then brought fouJ very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, anal bread-fruit ; and this part of the ceremony was con- ducted by the king's exchanging names with Captaiw Cook, which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean, is esteemed the strongest pledge of friendshipJ A procession of priests, with a venerable old persona"-e at their head, now appeared, followed by a loag train leant the decency of this proposal, s^pd was aw prehensive, that even the bare mention of it might bj considered, by them, as a piece of shocking ini()ietj| In this, however, I found myself mistake^, Not iIk smallest surprize was expressed at the application, m the wood was readily given, even without stipulatiiid for any thing in return. Whilst the sailprs were takiiid it away, {obsfsrv^d one of tlieija pnrrying oft'j^tarve^ image! tHTlVD VOYAGE. 451 iiaj^e ; and, on further enquiry, found that they had onvcyed to the boats the whole semicircle. Though kis was done in the presence of the natives, who not shewn any mark of resentment at it, biit had *en assisted them in the removal, I thouG^ht it pro- er to speak to Kuuo on the subject, who appeared ery indifterent about the matter, and only desired, at we would restore the centre image, which h« jrried into one of the priests* houses. Terreeohoo, and his chiefs, had, for some days past, en very inquisitive about the time of our departure. this circumstance had excited in me a great curiosity J know what opinion this people had formed of us, od what were tneii' ideas respecting the cause and ob-* cts of our voyage. I took ^ome pains to satisfy my- lelf oil these points ; but I could never learn any thing ther, than that they imagined we came from some onntry where provisions had failed; and that our sit to them was merely Tor the purpose of filling our allies. Indeed, the meagre appearance of some of kecrew, the hearty appetites with which we sat down jtheir fresh provisions, and our great anxiety topur-« ise, and carry off, as much as we were able, led em naturally enough, to such a conclusion. To se may be added, a circumstance which puzzled em exceedingly, our having no women with us; to-* [ether with our quiet conduct, and unwarlike appear-* Bce. It was ridiculous enough to see them stroking sides, and patting the bellies of the sailors (who kre certainly much improved in the sleekness of their oks, during our short stay in the island), and telling em, partly by signs, and partly by words, that it was ae for them to go ; but if they would come again next bread-fruit season, they should be better able I supply their wants, "^ehadnow been sixteen days I the bay; and if our eTiormous consumption of hogs Vegetables be considered, it need not be wondered, at they should wish to see us take our leave. It is fry probable, however, that Terreeohoo had no other ew iti hid enquiries, at present, than a desire of mak- L112 inj <.''.i 452 CAPTAIN COOK'S ing suflicieut prepamtion for dismissing us with pre^ seiits, suitable to the respect and kindness with whic} he had received us. For, on our telling him wc should leave the island on the next day but one, vc observed a sort of proclamation was immediateh made, through the villages, to require the people tc Wuig in their hogs and vegetables, for the king tj present to the Orono, on his departure. i The next day being fixed for our departure, TerJ reeoboo invited Captain Cook and myself to attend him, on the 3d, to the place whei*e Kaoo residecl On our arrival, we found the ground covered witj parcels of cloth ; a vast quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut husks ; and great number of hatchets, and other pieces of iron ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a lit tie distance from these, lay an immense quantity vegetables, of every kind, and near them was a largj herd of hogs. At first, we imagined the whole to intended as a present for us, till Kaireekeea infonnc me, that it was a gift, or tribute, from the people that district to the king ; and, accordingly, as sool as we were seated, they brought all the bundles, anj laid them severally at Terreeoboo's feet; spreadinj the cloth, and displaying the feathers and iron-war before him. The king seemed much pleased with thj ^ mark of their duty ; and having selected about a thir part of the iron-wai*e, the same propoi'tion of feather a»wl a few pieces of cloth, these were set aside themselves, and the remainder of the cloth, togeth^ witli all the hogs and vegetable, were afterwar presented to Captain Cook and myself. We mi iislouished at the value and magnitude of this preseti which far exceeded every thing of tlie kind we ha seen, either at the Friendly or t;5ociety Islands. Boa were immediately sent to carry them on board; tlj large hogs were picked out, to be salted for sea-stor and upwards of tluiiy smaller pigs, and the vegetable were divided between the two crew;?. The same day, we quitted the Morai, and got tlj tents and ai^tronomical instruments on board. TF 4 char THIRD VOYAGE. 453 Ith'iirm of the taboo was now removed; and we had no sooner left the place, than the natives iiished in, and searched eagerly about, in expectation of findini^ soniethingr of value, that we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the last on shore, and waited for the return of the boat, several -came crowding about me, and having made me sit down by them, be^an to lament our separation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was able to quit them. And here, I hope I may be permitted to relate a trifling occur- rence, in which I was principally concerned. Having hud the command of tne party on hore, during the whole time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than those whose duty required them to be generally on board. As I bad every reason to be satisfied with their kindness, in general, so I cannot too often, nor too particidarly, mention the unbounded and constant friendship of their priests. On my part, I spared no endeavours to conciliate their affections, and gain their esteem ; and I had the good fortun'' to succeed so far, that^when the time of our departure was made known, I was strongly soli- cited to regain behind, not without offers of the most flattering kind. When I excused myself, by saying, that Captain Cook would not give his consent, they proposed, that I should retire into the mountains where, they said, they would conceal me, till after the departure of the ships; and on my further assur- ing them, that the captain would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited -upon Cap- tain Cook, whose son they supposed I was, with a formal request, that I might be left behind. ,The captain to avoid giving a positive refusal to an offei,* so kindly intended, told them, that he could not part with me, at that time, but that he should retm'n to the island the next year, and would then endeavour to settle the matter to their satisfaction. Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, atid sailed out of the hay, with the Diseavery in company, and « U if i I i 454 CAPTAIN cook's and were followed by a j^reat number of canoes.* Captain Cook*s design was to finish the survey of Owhyhee, before he visited the other islands, in hopes of meetiujuf with a road better sheltered) than the bay we had just left; and in case of not succeeding^ here, he purposed to take a view of the S. E. part of MoM'ee, where, the natives informed as, we should find au excellent harbeur. Captain Cook had calm weather for three succeed- m^ days, which much impeded his progress ; and, at midnight, on the 8th, a violent gale came on, which greatly damaged the fore-mast of the Resolution. This circumstance, which proved so fatal to Captain Cook, obliged him to return to Karakakooa Bay, and to take up his old station there, till the damages he had sustained could be properly repaired. CHAP. IX. Death of Captain Cook, with an account of the trans- actions at the Island of Owhyhee, subsequent to the death of Captain Cook — Captain Clprke' s departure from Owhifhee-^ Arrival at Atooi' — Final departure from the Sandwich Islands^— Description of the w«- iives, and treatment of their women* AS the repairs of the Resolution required some time, the astronomical ftpparatus was got ashore, and the tents pitched on the Morai, or burying place, where a guard of a corporaliand six marines was sta- tioned. The friendly corr(^spondence was renewed with the priests, who, for the greater security of the workmen, and their tools, tabooed the place where the mivit lay, sticking their wands round it as before. But notwithstanding this friendly behaviour of the priests, it was a matter of great surpiise^ that when, the ships came to anchor, their reception was very dif-^ ferent from what it had been on their first arrival; no ^houts, no bustle, no confusion, but a solitary bay^ with only here and there a canoe stealing close alon^ the shore* TMese suspicious eircumstanccs gave rise THIRD VOYAGE. 455 to many conjectures, but whatever these were, things went on in their usual <|uiet course till the afternoon of the lath. Towards the eveninj^ of that day, the officer who couinianded tite wateri*)!^ pmrty of the Discovery, came to inform me, that several chit-fn had assembled jitthe well near the Imnc^h, dri\ ing;away the natives, whom he had hired to assmi the Huilors in rolhn;^ down the casks to the shore. He told me, at the same timc« that he thought tluir beha^ lour extreinely suspicious, and that they meant to jfive him siMut farther distur- bance. At his request, therefore, I sent a marine along with him, but ttuifered him to take only his side unns. In a short time the officer returned, and on his acquainting me, th^t the natives had armed themselves with stones, and were grown very tumultuous, I went myself to the spot, attended by a marine, withjiiji [liusquet, Seeing us ap^oach, they threw away I their stones, and, on my speaking to some of tlie chiefs, the mob w^M-e driven away, and those who I chose itj were sutU red to assist }n filling the casks. I Having left things quiet here, I went to meet Captain I Cook, whom I saw coming ashore in the pinnace. I I related to him what had just passed ; and he ordered me, in case of their beginning to throw stones, or be- have insolently, inmiediately to fire a ball at the ofien,- dei*s. I accordingly gave orders to th^ corporal, to have the pieces of the centinels loaded 'With ball* {bstead of small shot. Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed Ihy a continual fire of musquets from the Discovery, which we observed to be directed at a canoe, that wo saw paddling toward the shore, in great haste, pursued by one of our small boats. We immediately coa- cluded that the firing was owing to some theft, aqd the captain ordei'cd me to follow him with a marine armed, and to ep'^eavour to sei*e the people as they came on shore. . Vccovdingly, we ran toward the place jwhere we supposed tLe canoe would land, but were too kte ; the people having quitted it, and made their [escape into the country before our arrival. Wt> ^i. '! M ^, > IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ A ^ 1.0 1.1 IL25 IH 1.4 M^^B 1141 1.6 «% ^^ ^ Hiotographic ^Sciences Corporation '^V^ ^ ^.v 33 WfST MAIN STREIT WBRSTn, H.Y. 14SS0 [r,i)t7i-4b03 '^ \ 5^ O"^ 456 CAPTAIN COOK.*9 We were at this time ignorant that the gowU had been already restored ; and as we thought it probable, from the circumstances we had at first observed, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to re- linquish our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore enquired of the natives which way the peo- ple had fled, we followed them, till it was near dark, when judging ourselves to be about three miles from the tents, and suspecting, that the natives, who fre- quently encouraged us in the pursuit, were amusing { us with false informations, we thought it in vain to con- 1 tinue our search any longer, and returned tothebeafh. During our absence, a difference of a more serious and unpleasant nature had happened. The officer,] who had been sent in the small boat, and was return- ing on board, with the goods which had beep restor- ed, observing the captain and me engaged in the pur-l suit of the offenders, thought it his duty to seize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the shore. Un- fortunately, this canoe belonged to Pareea, who ar-l riving at the same moment from on board the Disco-I veiT, claimed his property, with many protestationsi of his innocence. Tne officer refnsing to give it upj and bein? joined by the crew of the pinnace, whicikl was waitmgfor tlie captain, « scuffle etisned, in wliicii| Pai-ieea was knocked aown, by a violent blow on the head with an oar. The natives, who wei« coUeoti about the spot, and had hitlierto been peaceable sjiec- tators, immediately attacked our pec^e, with sue' % shower of stones, as forced them to retreat witt Sreat precipitation, and swim off to a rock at some istance from the shore. The pinnace was immediH liitely ransacked by the natives, and but for the timel) interpositioii of Bareea, who seemed to Lave recover from the ii)low, and forgot it at the same instant, woi soon have been entirely demolished. Having driveii liway the crowd, he made sigis to our people thai Uiey might come and take possession of the pinnacej ,and that he would endeavour to get back the thins which had been taken out of it. After their deparj ture. be loUow«d tkem in his canoe, with a sbipmauj THIRD VOYAGE. 4'): |jinpmau*s cap, ami some other triflinj^ articles of the C under, and, with much apparent concern at what d happened, aitked if the Orono would kill him, lind wnether he would permit him to come on board the next cay ; on beitiu,' :issureservatiiccess, he meant to pur. sue on the present occasion ; and, at the same time,! had given orders to stop all the canoes that should at- tempt to leave the bay, with an intention of seiztug and destroying* them, if he could not recover the c.ut- ter by peaceable means. Accordingly, the boats oi both ships, well manned and armed, were stationed I across the bay ; and, before I left the ship some great] guns had been fired at two large canoes, that ^crc| attempting to make their escape. It was between seven and eight oVlock when we) quitted the ship together ; the captain in the pinuacej having Mr. Phillips and nine marines with him, ami myself in the small boat. The last orders I receive(| from him, were to quiet the minds of the natives, of our side of the bay, by assuring them, they should noj be hurt, to keep my people together, and to he oi| my guard. Wo then. parted, the captain went tc wards Kowrowa, Avhere the king resided, and I pro oeedcd to the beach. My first care,, on going ashorcl was to give strict orders to the marines to remaiij within the tent, to load their piece^s with ball, anil not to quit their arms. Afterwards I took a walk t(| the huts of old Kaoo, and the priests, and explained tJ theui, as well i\s I could, the object of the hostile pre] purations, which had exceedingly alarmed them, found, that they luid already heard of the cutter'l being stolen, and I assured them, that though thj captain was resolved to recover it, aud to punish thj authors of the theft, yet that they and the people the village » a this side, need not be under thf; smalle apprehension of suil^ering any evil from us. I desire the priests to explain this to the people, and tell then not to be alarmed^ but 'to remain peaceable apd quiej Kaoo asked me, if their king wa»s to be hurt? | assured him he was not ; and both he and his bi threu seemed satisfied with this assurance. In the mean time, tlie captain having called offtl launch, wliich was st^tioucd at the N. point of the !j:iJ TTIIRD VOYAGE^ 4^0 and taken it alou^ with liira, went to Kowrowa, anrl laniletl witli tlie lieutenant and nine marines. lie immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the usual marks of respect; the people prostratint^ themselves before him, and hrinj[>;iug their accustomed offerings of su^.all pigs. Finding that there was no suspicion of his design, his next step was to inquire for the king and his sous, who had been his constant guests on board the Resolution. In a I tihort time, the boys returned, with the natives, who had been in search of them, and immediately led the I captain to the hoivse where the king had slept. They found him just awoke from sleep, and after a short conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which the captain was convinced that he was in no wise privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and spend the day on board the Resulution. To this proposal the king readily consented, and immediately got' up I ti) accompany hint on board. Things were in this prosperous train, the boys al- I ready in the pinnace, and the rest of the party hav- ins; advanced near the water side, when an elderly woman, the mother of the boy^f and one of the kingV iavourite wives, came after him, und with many tcar.'$ uiid entreaties besought him not to go on board. At tlie same time two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, and insisting that lie should go no fr ther, forced him to sit down. The natives, who tore collecting in prodigious numbers along the hhoi'c, began to throng round the captain and their |kin«r. Ill this situation, the lieutenant of manncs [observing that his men were huddled close together lin the crowd, and thus incapable of using tiieir arms, if occasion should require it, proposed to the captain to draw them up along the rocks, close to the water's ledge ; and the crow d roadil y making way for thcni to |]Kis8, they were drawn U[» in a line, at the distance of laboirt 30 yards from the place where the king was pitting. All this time the old king remained on the ground, |*ilh tlic strongest miu'ks ot tivVor and dejection in his M m in 'Z countuiauce ; ji 7 I IK' . .^'''l- l^t 'T^ifi _^. 400 CAVTAm CIOOK*iS countenance; the captain, not willing to abandon the object for which ne had come on shore, continu- ing to urge him, in the most pressing manner, to pro* ceed ; whilst on the other hand. Whenever the kin^ appeared inclined to follow him, the chiefs, who stMxi round him, interposed, at first with prayers and entreaties, but afterwards, having recourse to force and violence, and insisted on his staying where he wa^. Captain Cook therefore finding that the alaim had spread too generally, and that it was in vain tf>| think any longer of getting him off, -^^ithout blood- shed, at last gave up the point: observing to Mr. Philips, that it would be impossible to compel him to go on board, withojit the risk of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the enterprize which had carried captain Cook on shore had now failed, and was abandonedJ ^'et his peraon did not appear to have been in the least! danger, till an accident happened, which gave a fatal] turn to the affair. The boats which had been sta- tioned across the bay, having fired at some canoes that were attempting to get out, unfortunatel v had killed] a chief of tne first rank. The news of his death ar- rived at the village where captain Cook was, just ai he had left the king, and was walking slowly toAvardi the shore. The ferment it occasioned was verv eon- spicuons 'f tlie women and children were immeiliatcK sent ofi*; and the men put on their war-mats, anS armed themselves with spears and stones. One of thi natives, having in his hands a stone, and a long iroi^ spike (which they call a Pahooa) came up to the Captain, flourishing his weapon, by wav of deiiancej and threatening to throw the stone. Tne captain dcj sired him to desist ; but the man persisted in his insc lence; he was at length pi'ovoked to fire aloadoj small shot. The man having his mat on, which th^ shot were not aMe to penetrate, this had no othej effect than to irritate and encounge theiii. Sevei stones were thrown at the marines; and one of thj Erects attempted to stab Mr. Philips with hij . Pahooa -, but tailed in the attempt, and received fmv ■<«'• rei * 1:1 ■■••' .,'-!,. I bim a bio? Cook now and killet Uenersil at which was the marine I islanders, < Ntood the 1 marines hai with dreadl I g scene of t Four of t I in their reti memy; tin the lieutena ihoulders w his fire, sho lie was goii] Commandei was standin the boats t( true, as s< iuiairined, i without his Tenting any that his hii him. For i natives, noii but that hav I the boats, bis face into On seeing I shout, and thore, and ingthe dag'^ wvaye eagel Thus fell I » life of such leath, as ^ prcmutitrc h THIRD VOYAGE. 461 him a blow with the Imt-end of his nuiskct. Captain Cook now fired his seoond barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A ireneriil attack with stones immediately followed, which was answered by a discharj^e of mnsketi*y from the marines, and the people in the boats. The islanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, ftood the fire with g^reat finnness ; and before the marines had time to reload, they broke in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was I scene of the utmost horror and confusion. Four of the marines were cut off among the rocki in their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the tnemy; three more were dauj^erously wounded; and the lieutenant, who had recei\ cd a stab between the iboulders with a pahooa, having' fortunately reserved his fire^ shot the man who had wounded him, just as I he was going to repeat his blow. Our unfortunate Commander, the last tiuie he was seen distinctly, was standing at the water^s odge, and calling out to the boats to cease firing, and to pull in. If it be |trae, as some of tliose who were present have imagined, that the marines and boatmen had fired I without liis orders, and that he was desirous of pre- [Teatino any further bloodshed, it is not improbable, that Uis humanity, on this occasicn, proved fatal to I him. For it was remarked, that while he faced the I natives, iiono of them had ofiered him any viiilence ;. hut that having turned about, to give his orders to the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with bis face into the water. ittt* On seeing him fall, the islanders set up a great sliont, and his body was immediately dragged oq I shore, and tori'ounded by the enemy, who snatch* I in^ the dagger out of each other^s hands, shewed a I savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. Thus fell oar g^eat and excellent commander! Afiet l&life of such distinguished and successiiil cnterprize, ^i death, as far as r^ff ards himHelf, cannot bo reckon- jed premature; siace.ae lived to finish tlie great work for 402 CJAPTATN cook's for wliicli he scrnu'd to liavo bcrn dcsij^ncd ; and Ma« ratlicr removed i'nno tlu; cujoymcnS than ciit off from the acquisition ot* i^Iory. How sincerely his loss was lanu'nt^'d, hy those who had so lon^ found their ge- neral si'cnrity in his skill nnd conduct, and every con. solution under their hardships, in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for nif to deserihe ; nuich less shall I attempt to paint tlir horror with whii^h wc were struck, and the universal dejection and dismay which followed so dreadful and unexpected a calamity. , It having^ been already mentioned, that four of tho marines were killed on the spot, the rest, with Mr. Philips, threw thomselves into the water, and escaped, imdei* cover of a smart fire from the boats. On this occasion, a remarkable instance of g^allant behaviour, and of affection for his men, was shewn by that officer. For he had scarcely i^-ot into the boat, when, seeing one of the marinss, who was a bad swimmer, strung. glino* in the water, and in danti^er of being taken hy the enemy, he immediately jumped into the soa to ^ assistance, though nmch wounded himself, and »,er receivinQf a blow on the liead from a stone, which had nearly sent him to the bottoin, he cauii^ht the man by his hair, and brought him safe ofi'. Our people continued for some time to keep up a I constant fire from the boats, (which, during the whole ti-ausaction, were not more than twenty yards from the land), in order to afford their unfortunate com- panions an opportunity of escaping. Tht^se efforts, seconded by a few guns, fired at the same time from the Resolution, having forced the natives at last to retire^ a siuall boat, manned by five young midshiiv *i:en, pulled toward the shore, where they saw the I bo;uard of only si\ nr.u'iiu-s. Beiiti*' nt the clis- liuicc only of a short mile from tlic vilhuj^o of Kowrowa, wc could see distinctly an imnuMist' croud collected on the spot where Captain Cook had just before landed. We heard the firinuf of musketry, and couhl perceive 8ome extraordinary bustle in the uiultitudo. My first care, on hearini^ the nmskcts fired, was, to assure the people, who were assembled in consider- able numbers, round the wall of cur consecruted field, and seemed e(|ually at a loss with ourselves bow to account foi* what they had seen and heard, that they should not be molested ; and that, at all e\ ents, I was desirous of continuing' on peaceable terms with them, remained iu this posture till the boat.s had re- I turned on board, when Captain Clerkc observing', ihroug^h his telescope, that we were surrounded by I the natives, and apprelveuding they meunt to attack: US, ordered two four-iK>unders to be tired at them. Fortunately these guns, thoujiifh wt;Il aimed, did no mischief, and yet gave the nati\es a eonvincin<^ proof of their power. One of the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in tne middle, uiuier whieii a paity of tlitni were sitting; and the other shivered a rock, that stooil in all exact line with them. As 1. liad, just before, given Itheui the strongest assumnces of tin jr safety, 1 was {exceedingly mortitied ut this act ot hostility ; and, I to prevent a repetition of it, inunediattrly dispatched { a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that, at }m'< seitt, I I was ou the most friendly terms with the nuu\es; audthat, if occasion should heieafter arise for alteri* iiigniy conduct towards them, 1 would hoist a jack, I for him to afibrd as all the assistance in his power. We expected the return of the boat v» ilh the utmost I impatience ; and after remainini^ a quarter of an hour uuuer the .nost torturing anxiety and suspetkse, our li'ai*s were at length continued, by the arrival of Mr, B%h, with orders to strike the tents as quickly as })ossible, an4 to. send the sails, that were repairing, ||iii board. Having 1 1 \ti % 40i CAVTAfN COOKS ITsivin«if placeil the mariiics on tlic top of the Momi, Avliich formed a Ntrotig' post, hiicI luft tlif command with Mr. Blif^h, |fiviii? him the; 111014 po- «iti%'c directions to act entirely on the defenHive, I "went on board the Discovery, in order to represent to Captain Clerke the dangerous situation of our af. fairs. Ah soon as I quitted the spot, the iiativcn beg^n to annoy our people with stones; and I had scarcely reu'*hed the ship, before I heard the firln|r of the marines. I therefore returned instantly on | shore, where I found things gi'owing every mo- ment more alarming. The natives were armin .which h( held in his hand, and turning it from me. I told him I was come to demand the body of €a| tain CoOk, and to declare war against them unless i| was instantly restored. He assured me this should h done as soon as |)ossib}e ; and, after begging of me piece of iron, with much assurance, as if nothing e.\ traordinary had hap|)ened, he leeq^ed into the sea, am swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen that w| were all friends again. We wiiited nearanlMMir, with great anxiety, for Iii return; during which time, the rest of the boats hi approached so near the shore, as to enter into coiivei tion with a party of the natives, at some distance fn us ; by w hoin they were plainly given to uudewtai that the body had l^eeti ci4t in pieceM^ and earriod u tl the countr formed til I began delay; npt to coniie as totJH'irkin me. Whe to land, th converse m some rucks, power to ci matter to s< fore strongi; cation with the particuh cera of tlje sailed, when passage to JV: to acquaint i try, but that ing. There manner; anc hooke'e had it in their power to cut us oft* from the rest. It was no difficult matter to see through these artifices ; and I vv«s there- fore strongly inclined to break oft* all further communi- cation with them, when a chief came to us, w1k> ws^s the particular friend of Captain Gierke, and of the ofii- cei*s of the Discovery, ou boawl which ship he had sailed, when we last left the bay, intending to take his passage to Mowee. He told us he came from the king, to acquaint us that the body was carried up the coun- try, but that it should be brought to us ihe next morn- ing. There appeareioci it. We first tried, by many indii-ect rpiestions, put t( each of them apart, to learn in what manner the rest] of the bodies had been disposed -of; and findinu^ thein •very constant in one story, that after the flesli had been •cut off, it had all been burnt; we at last pnt tlic •direct question, whether they had not cat some of it! They immediately shewed as much horror at the idcjii AS an European would have done ; and asked, veryl naturally, if this was the custom amongst us? The\j Afterwards asked us, with great earnestness and ap^ parent apprehension, " When the orono would conid again? and what he would do to them on his retiinj?'] The same enquiry was frequently made after wan by others; and this idea agrees with the general tenor of th^ir conduct towards him, which shewed] that ^hey considered him as a being of a supevioi nature. We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain oil board tdl morning, but in vain. They told us that) if this transaction should come to the knowledge ol the king or chiefs, it might be attended with the mosf latal consequences to the whote society (the priests] in order to prei ent which, they had been oWiged td $ome off to us in the dark, and that the same pre] caution would be necessary in returning on shon ' They informed us farther, that the chiefs were eagej to avenge the deaths of their counti^men ; aiwi parj ticularly cautioned us against trusting Koah, who . they said, was our mortal and implacable enemy, an^ desired nothing m(»re ardently than an opportunity lighting us; to ^^hich the blowing of some concW we had heard in the morning, was meant ?s a chal| len^e to fight us. We learned from these men, that 17 of their cour trvmen had been kilkd in tlie first action at Kowrowj of whom five ysjve chici'j : and that Kaneena and hi brotlitl THIRD TOY AGS. 471 krother, our very particular friends, were unfortu- nately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the observatory, three of whom were also of the [iinitrank. About eleven o'clock, our two friends left us, and took the precaution to desire, that our ruard-boat I might attend them till they had passed the l)iscoverVf lest they should again be fired upon, which might I alarm their countrymen on shore, and expose them to I the danger of being discovered. This request wa» complied with, and we had the satisfaction to find^ that they got safe to shore. On the 16th, about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, greai bodies of ^he natives, after blowing their conchs, and using every mode of defiance, march- id off, over the hill, and never api>eared afterwards. Those, however, who remained, were not the less dar- \i\if and ini^olent. One man had the audacity to conift within musket shot, a-head of the ship, and after siing- iag several stones at us, he waved the Captain's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen were exulting* and encourao'ing las boldness. Our people were all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a body on thts qoarter deck, begged they might no longer b^ obliged to put up with repeated provocations, and requested me to obtain permission for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themselves of the first fair occasion of revenging thu death of their commander. On my acquainting hini with what was passing, he gave orders for som^ gii'at guns to be fired at the natives on shore, and promised the crew, that if they slioidd meet with any molestation at the watering-place the next day, %h»j shoi^L v.ht before, came off again. They assured us, that thougii the effects j of our great guns this afternoon, had terrified the chiefs exceedingly » they had by no means laid aside I their hostile intentions, and advised us tO be always on our guard. » The next morning, the boats of both ships were sent ashore for water, and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to cover their service. We soon found, that the intelligence which the priests had sent us was not without foundation ; and that the natives were resolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when it could be done without much risk. In fact, our people were so taken up in attending to their own safety, that they employed the whole fore- noon in filling only one tun of water. As it was impos- sible to perform this sei*vice till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was erdered to dislodge tliem with ber great guns ; wliich being effected by a fev^ discharges, the men landed withoutl molestation* THIRD VOTAOS^ 473 molettation. However, the natives soon after made their appearance again ; and it was now found u bso- lately necessary to bum down some few straggling booses near' a wall, behind which they had taken shelter. In- executing these orders, I am sorr}' to add, that our people were hurried into acts of unne** eefisary ■ cruelty and devastation ; although soin ething oaght certainly to be allowed to their resentment of thiB repeated insults and contemptuous behaviour of ike islanders^ and to the natural desire of revenging I the loss of their commander. I have already mentioiied that orders had been. [men to bum only a few sti*agg*ling huts, which af- forded shelter to the natives. We were therefore a Uood deal surprized to see the whole village on fire; ind before a boat, that was sent to stop the progress Uf the mischief^ could i*each the shore, the houses of Ur old and constant friends the priests, were all in lilames. I cannot enough lament the illness that con- Ijined me on board this day; The priests had always llieen under my protection : and, unluckily, the officers |who were on duty, having been seldom on shore at j;!ie Morai, were not much acquainted with the cir->^ Itomstances of the place. Had I been present myself, II might probably have been the means of saving their little society fi*om destruction. Several of the natives were shot in making their lescane from the flames; and our people cut o£^ the heads of two of the natives, and Drought them on llNtard. At this time an elderly man was taken prisoner, )und, and sent on board in the boat, with tne heads |if his two companions. I never saw horror so strongly pictured as in the face of this man, nor so violent a iDsition to extravagant joy, as when he w&s untied td told he might go away in safety* He shewed us '■ did not want gratitude, as he frequently afterwards turaed with presents of provisions, and also did us er services. 10 o o Sooa If ;■«■ 474 CAPTAIN COOKS Soon after the villagfi was destroyed, we saw, com- ing down the hill, a man attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, g^en boufflis, and! plantains in their hands. I knew not howit nappen-l ed, tl\*t this peaceful embassy, as soon iia they wer(^| within reach, received the fire of a par^y of our men.f This, however, did not stop them. They continued their procession, and the oflSoer on duty came up iJ time to prevent a second dischargi^. As ttiey approach-j ed nea^r, it was found to be our much esteemed] friend Kaireekeea, the priest, who had fled on oui setting fire to the village, and had now returned, audj desired to be sent on board the Resolution. When we arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We endeavourcd to make him un- derstand the necessity we were under of setting ha to the village, by which his house, and those of his brethren, were unintentionally consumed. He eni postulated a little with us on our wtuit of friendship! and on our ingratitude. And indeed it was not tUf now, that we learned the whole extent of the injorj) we had done them. He told us, that relying on the promises I had made them, and on the assmnncc they had afterwards received from the men, who ' brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they haur best friend. The cutter, he told us, was h4 I i a' 478 t^A^TAlS cook's was taken away by Pareca's people ; very probahly in rerenge for the blow that was given him; and that it I waft broken up the next day. * Nothin<^ now remained bnt to perform the la^t officf>%\ to our gretrt, thontrh unfortunate commander. Kappo was dismisned with orders to taboo all the bay ; and in ■the afternoon, the bonet* having been put into arortinj and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep, with the usual military honours. What our feelings were on this occasion, I leave the world to conceive; those who were present know, tliat it isj not in my power to express them. Durinff the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was I aeen paddling in the bay ; the taboo vihich Eap|>o had laid on it the day before, at our request, not being yetl takiRn off. At length Eappo came off to us. VVo assured him, that we i^ -•. now entirely satisfied ; muil that as the orono was bi .kl, all the remembrance of j what had passed was buried with him. We afterwardii desired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came on board, expressing! great sorrow at what had happened, and their satis-l taction at our i*econciliation. Several of our friends J ^who did' not visit us, sent presents of large hogs, andl other provisions. Amongst- -the rest came the old| treacherous Koah, but Was refused admittance. As we had now every thins^ ready for sea, Captalnl Clerke imagining, that, if the news of our proceed- ings should reach the islands to leeward before us, itl "miglit have a very bad effect, gfave oiiders to unmoor. About eight in the evening wc dismissechthe natives; and Eappo and the firiendly Kaireekeea took an affec- tionate leave of us. We immediately weighed, andl stood out of the bay The natives were collected onl the shore in gi'eat numbers ; and as we passed alons^,| received our last farewells with every mark of aftection| »nd good-vnll. His THimD VOYAOV. 47i> HiR firat object vfoa to srarch for nn harbour on the 1$. K. nkle of Mowee. Beiii^ driven, however, by the eoiiterly MriiidH and current, he wus not able to gfain it, but, ou the 1st of March, anchored aq^nin oft' the island of Atooi. The p^reat business tliere was to procnro water and provisions; but the party employed on shore for this purpose, were in the most imminent dan^j^er^ Nothinu^ but the moderation and management of liea^ tenant King conUl have prsventcd a repetition of the ctitastrophe of Owhyhee. liarmony however was r^ stored by the intei^iosition of the chiefs, who attributed this hostile circumstance to a want of subordination, wliich was the natural consequence of the civil disseiii* »ion8 which then reigned in the islands, and which were occasioned by the goats which Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and which were all destroyed ill the contest. On the 8tli, Captain Clerke sailed from Atooi, and anchored the same afternoon off Pneeheow. On the i2th he finally left these islands. We have already given various particulars of the Sandwich Islands, in our description of the island of Atooi. It will be now proper to add a few observa* tions. They consist of a gfronp of eleven in number, extending in lat. from 18 deg. 54 min. to 22 deg. 15 min. norui; and in long, from 199 deg. 30 min. to Mi deg. 06 min. £. Tbsy were named the Sandwicb Islands by Caiitain Cook, in hononv otf the Earl of Sandwich, under whose auspices this voyage was un- dertaken. The climate here diiiers very little firon that of the West Lulia islands, which lie in the same Istitotle. Whether they are subject tathe same vie* lent winds and huiTicanes could not be disco^^ercd, as the ships were not there in any of the stonyi^montha; but Captain King thinks it probable, that m this re- ipect, they resemble the Society and Friendly Islands^ wbidi are in a great meiisure free iron, these dseadtiil visitatiofis. Of the quadrupeds in these islands, the only sort worthy of observation are the dogs, and that merely m WLff&imi of tl^e manner in wmch they ar^ tveated 3 here I f^: 480 ciJPTAnr cooit^A here ; a maimer so diffsrent from the Earopesus. These dogs are aboat the size of the common tumnNt; ex- dseding sluggish in their nature ; which may foe more owing to md manner in which they are treated, than to their natural disposition. They are, in general, fed, and left to herd, with the hogs; nor did' thei% appear one instance in which a dog Was made aeompanion in the! miannerwe do in Europe.. Indeed, the^custom of ei^ilg them is an insupecaole bar tb their admission into society; and as there^areneitherbeastsof prey in the islands^ nor oli^ects of tshase, it is probable that the social qualities of the dog, his "fidelity, attachment, and sa^Acity, will remain unknown to the natives. With respect to the vegetables, the most remark- able wewe several large roots, brought to the ships at Oneeheow. They wer^ of a brown coloup, Shaped like' a yam, and from abt to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it yields in giteat abundance, is very sweet, and of a pleetiE»Lnt . taste, and wa» found to be an exeellent substitute ^r sugar. The natives are very fonid of it, imd use it as an article of their common diet; and our pisople^also found it very palatable and wholesome. It was supposed to be tiie root of some khid of f^m. /ii K^ * ' . < The natives of these islands are/ in general, above the middle siz#» and well made > th^ walk very grace- fully, run nimbly, and are> capable of bearing great fatigue; though, upon the whole, the men are some- wh^ inferior, in pomt of strength and activity, to the Friendly Islanders, and the '^omen less delicately limb- ed than those of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather darker than that of the Otaheiteans, and they are not altog^th^ so handsome a people. However^ many of | boith sexes bad hue open conntenaiicesf ahdthe women in particidar had ffood eyes and teeth, and a sweetness and sensibility of Took, which rendered them' veiy en* gaging. Their hair is of a brownishtblack, and nei- tner uniformly straight, like that of the^Indmns iu America, nor uniformly curling, as among the African ^l^oes, but varying, in this respect, like, the h^iroi'| . ^ Europeans. .^It,. v^ilr , :n ■■,V/' m - i*. , ■"• m- '''!;i',''ni:'ii!l;!'"" '',\ r.".'V'.V.V.V,','''.''i.'' :■■' _--•-;-•■■.■. ■.'/'";',V//v;-.v¥i5'iir V \ ^ ^ ^ nfutD TOTAIHB* 4^1 Earope&tvsi. Oiie stfikingf peculiarity, in the fefttares of every part o^this mat natioiii I do not remember to have seen any Where mentioned; which is, that even in the handsomest faces, jhere is always a fblness •f the nostril, without any flatness or spreading of the nose, that distingoishes them from Europeans. It is not improbable that this mtiy be the enect of their osoal niode#f salutation, which is performed by pres- sing the ends of their noses together. Notwithstflinding the Irr^rable loss we sufiered from the sudden leMntment and violence of the peo^ pie, yet, injustice to their general conduct, it must be acknowledged^ that they are of the most mild and ifiectionate disposition; equally remote from the ex-^ treme levity and fickleness of tne Otaheiteans, and the iifitant gravity and reserve of the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands. They appear to live in the nU most harmony and friendship with one another. The women who had children, were rettiarkable for their tender and comtant attention to them; and the men would often lend their assistance in those domestio tffices, with a willingness that does credit to their feelings. It must, however, be observed, that they fall very ihort of the other islanders in that best test of civiliza^ tion, the respects paid to the. women. Here thev are tot only deprived of the privilege of eating with the hen, but the best sorts of food are tabooed, or for^ bidden them. They are not allowed to eat pork> turtle, several kinds of fish, and some species of the Atain; and we are told that a poor girl gotater^- iible beating for having eaten, on board our ship, one if these interdicted articles. In their domestic life, appear to live almost entirely by tliemselves, and llbotign we did not observe any instftnces of personal |il treatment, yet it was evident they had little regard tr attention paid them. ; The great hospitality and kindness, with which we were received by them, have been frequently remarked; {t&d indeed thf^ make the principal part of our tactions with them. Wiienever we came on shore, 11 PpP there 4S2 dJPT^IN^ COOK*(l •. t there was a cofistant stnigff^le who slionld be tlie mostl tbi'ward in iiiakin«^ us litMe presents, bringing refresh-l ments, or shewing tuonie otlier mark of their K8pect.| The old people never fiiiled of receiving us with tearg| of joy ; seemed highly gratified with beiii^; allow to touch Hs, and Were c>on»tantly matting compariso between themselveH and ii», with the strongest mart of hmuility. Tlie young women were not less kinc and engaging, aqd, witil they found, notwithstandint our end^veurs tO; prevent it, that they had reason repent of our acqiiaintaiic^ attached themselves us without the least feservov f^ In justice Iwwever to the sex, it must be observi that tliese ladies were probably all of the lower cl of the people ; lor I am strongly inclined to believe] that excepting the few, whose nsmaes are meutioi 'in tlie course of the narrative, we did ootseeani women of rank in the island. Tlieir natural capacity seems, in no respect, beloi the coinmon standard of mankind* Their improve ments in agriculture, and the perfection of their ma] nufactures,are certainly adequate to the circuuistaooej of their situation, and the natural advantages thej enjoy. The eager curiosity widi which they attende the armourer*^ forge, and the maiiy expedients thej had invented; even before we left the islands, fo working the iron they had procured from us, in si forms as were best adapted for their purposes, wer strong prootk of docility and ingenuitv. >: Our unforhmate friend Kaneeiia, (killed with hi brother and fifteen of the natives in the fatal confli^ with. Ca,ptain Cook) possessed a degree of judici< curiosity, and a quickness of conception, which va| rafi|B|y t^ be met with among these people. He wa iiu|uisitive alter our customs and manners; asked af our king ; the nature of our government ; our numberj the method of building our ships; our houses; til produce of our country ; whether we liad wars ; witj whom ; and on what occasions ; and in what mann^ they were cai'ried on; who was our God; aud inai] otl I'RiliB Tot^ev. ^9 LtHer cmestiOns of the same natare, wliich indicated |in unaerstanding of (^reat comprehension. We met with two instances of persons diftordered |m their mindii ; the one, a man at Owhyhee, tlie other I woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the par- ticolar attention and respect paid to them, that t)ie Itpinion of their being inspired by the Divinity, which IJkains among most of the natiom of the east, is also lieceived here. The inhabitants of these islands differ from those of Ithe Friendly Isles, in suffering, almost universally, Itheir beards to grow. There were, indeed, a few, lunongst whom was the old king, that cot it oif en- Itirely ; and others that wore it only npon t^eir upper hp. The same variety, in the manner of wearing the. Ihair, is also observable here, as among the other liilanders of the south seas; besides which, they have li fashion, as far as we know, peculiar to themselves. [They cut it close on each side of the head, down to ears, leaving a ridge, of about a small hand's th, running from the forehead to the neck ; lichf when the hair is thick and curling, has tl^ Iftrni of a crest of the ancient helmet. Otliers wear rge quantities of false hair, flowing dov^n their L'ks in long ringlets ; and others again tie it mto a ig^le round bunch on the top of the head, almost as je as the head itself; and some into five or six dis- jinct bunches. They daub their hair with a grey lelav, mixed with powdered shells, which they keep |iD balls, and chew it into a kind of soft paste, when ' ey have occasion to make ose of it. This keeps hair smooth, and, in time, changes it to a pale lyellow colour. Both sexes wear necklaces, mode of strings of small megated shells ; and an ornanient, in the form of tiie iiidle of a cup, about two inclies long, and half an Bch broad, made of wood, stone, or ivory, finely ilished, which is hung about the neck, by fine threads I twisted hair, doubled sometimes an hundred fcid. stead of this ornament, some of them wear on their P p p 3 breast 04 OA9TAZN eOOK*t llreftst a ^bXL humaik figure, madt of bnmp Mwpemled in the same, mannef. : The fan, or fly*fiap» is aW ai| ornment vsecl by lioth sexes.. The most ordinanr kind are made of th« fibres of the coeoa-niit, tied loose in hi^nches te th» top of 1^ si»ooth polished handle. The tail feathers of tibe cock, and of the tropic bird, are also used in the I Wiae n^anner ; bnt the most iraliiable are those which have tfie handle made of the ^rm or leg bones of an { enemy slain in battle, and which ajre preserved with gpreat care, and hfmded down, from father to son, as I tcoG^ies 0^ inestknable valiie. .The custom of tatowing the body, they have in iQommon with the rest of the natives of the South Sea islands, but it is only at Pdew Zealand, and the Sand- { wich. islands that they tatow the face. From some information we received, relative to the I custom of tatowing, we were inclined to think, that it is frequently intended as a sign of mourning on the death of a chief, or any other calamitous event. For we were often told, thalt such a particular mark was in memory of such a chief, and so of the rest. It iMy be here too observed, that the lowest class are of tta tatowed witli a mark, that distinguishes thiem' an the{ property of the several chiefs to whom they belong. The dress of the men generally consists of a piecel of thick cloth called the maro, abont ten or (welvel inches broad, which they pass between the legn, and tie] round the waisL This is the common dress ut aii ranks! of people. Their mats, some of which are beautUuUy manufactured,, are of various sizes, but mostly about five feet long, and four bvoad:. These they throw over their shoulders, and bring forward before; butl they are seldom used,, except in time of war, for which purpose they seem better adapted than for ordinary use, being of atnick and cumbersome textmre, andcapablej of breaking the blow of a stone, or any blunt weapon. Their feet are generally bare, except when thev havel occasion to travel over the burnt stones, when they se-l cure tbem witha soi*t of sandal ^ade of cords, twistedl fromf fTHIUP VOYAOB. 486 jroni the $bve» of the cocoa^nuU Buch is tlie ordinar j irestt of these islanders; but they have another, appro* tfiated to their clnefs, and used ob ccreiaoniiHis 0eea« sioBS, consisting of a feofthered clonk and helmet, I which ip point of bepnty and majSfniiicenee, is perhaps pearly equal to tbiit ot' any nation in the weildr These doaks are made of difierent lengths, in proportion, to the mnkof the wearer, some of them reaching no lower tbaa the midiile, others trailing on the apround. The inferior chiefs bare also a short cloak, resembling the I fgno^tf made of the long tail-feathers of the cock, the ^opic ajdd uan^war oirds, with a broad border of j |be small aad yellw of any ^ai')iike Litstrument,^ and seems evidently designed for thai, pnrpoi^e, These feathered^ dresses- seemed to be exceedingly sea>rce, appropriated to persons* of the ki^hest ranky ^d worn by the men only. t The exact resemblance between this habit and the ahfik ai^d helmet liormerly worn by the Spamavds, wail too strikipg not to excite our curiosity to inquire, whe« ther there were ^y probable grounds for siftppctsing it \io have been borrowed from them* After exerting fvtfry means in omr power, of obtaining, information on this subject, we found thait tbey had no immediate !uK>wledge of any other nalion whatever ; nor any trsr jlition remaining among them of these islands having hen ever visited before by any such shi js as ours. — But notwithstanding t^e result of these inquiries, the ua€ommon form of this habit appears to me a sufficient proof of its European origin ; especially when added to another circumstanee, that it isi a sing^arvdeviatton from the general resemblance in dress, which prevails among ^1 the bvanehes of this tribe» dispersed through the South Sea. We were driven indeed^ by this con- clusion, to a supposition of the shipwreck of some Buccaneer, or ii^pauish ship, in the neighbourhood of tbese isiai^ds. i^ut when- it is secoiieeted, that the coui'se 486 CA»TA»- €OOlL*i^ coiine of the Spanieh trade from Acapuleo to the ManillaKf is but a few desprees to the southward oT the Sandwich Islands, in their paamge oat, and to the northward, on their return, this supposition will not appear in the least improbable. The common dress of the women bears a close resem- blance to that of the men. They wrap round the waist a piece Of cloth that reacheahalf way down the thi|^hs; and sometimes in the cool of the evening^, they ap. peared with loose^ pieces of fine cloth thrown over their shoulders, like the women of Otaheite. The pau is another dress, very frequently worn by theyoonger part of the sex. It is maide of the thinnest and finest sort of cloth, wrapt several times romid the waist, and | descending* to the leg^; so as to have exactly the ap- 1 pearance of a full short petticoat. Their hair is cut short behind, and tumea up before, as is the fiishion among the Otaheiteans and New Zealanders; all of whom differ in this respect from the women of the Friendly Islands, who wear their hair long. We| saw, indeed, one woman in Karakakooa Bay, whose hair was arranged in a very singular manner; it was | turned up behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back^ so as to form a sort of shade for I the face, like a sniall bonnet. ^ Their necklaces are made of shells, or of a bard shining red berry. Besides which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian maHow ; and another I beautiful ornament called eraie, which is generally pnt | ilbout the neck, but is sometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and sometimes worn in boUi these wiays at once. It is a raff of the thickness of a finger, made in a curious manner of exceeding small feathers, woven so close together as to form a snriiace as smooth as that of the richest velvet. The ground was gene- rally of a red colour, with alternate circles of green, yellowy and black. *^' ' At AtoOi, some of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers, in the manner we wear rings. Why this . <.w auiinal THIBB VOTAGS* 487 loimal is thus particularly distinguished, I leave to the couiectures of the curious. There is also an Lroament made of shells, fastened in rows on a gpround of strong netting, so as to strike each other, when in Uotion; which both men and women, when they (Ianc4^ tie either round the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. luHtead of shells, they sometimes make use of dog's teeth, and a hard red berry, resembling that {of the holly. There remains to be mentioned another ornament, |(if suih it may be called) the figure of which may be conceived by the following description: It is a kind of mask, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for the eyes and nose. The top was stuck full of Unall green twigs, which, at a distance, had the ap* Eiarance of an elegant waving plume ; and from the wer part hung narrow stripes of doth, resembling a I beard. We never saw these masks worn but twice, and both times by a number of peopL together iu a canoe, who came to the side of the ship, laughing and droUiog, with an air of masquerading. Whetlier they nay not likewise be used as a defence for the head igainst stones, for which they seem best designed, or in some of their public games, or be merely intended for the purposes of mummery, we could never inform I ourselves. In addition to the furniture of their houses, which I lias been accurately described by Capt. Cook, I have I only to add, that $it one end are mats on which they I ileep, with wooden pillows, or sleeping stools, exactly I like those of the Chinese. 8ome of the better sort of houses have a couil-yard before them, neatly railed in, with smaller houses built round it, fur their servants. In this area they generally eat and sit during the day* time. In the sides of the hills, and among the steep rocks, we also observed several holes or caves, which appeared to be inhabited ; but as the entrance was de« iieaded with wicker-work, and we also found, in the only one that was visited, a stone fence running aoross it Ii'v ft .'^i SiSi ill: m i i' i; 4m CkP^ATBt OOOK*8 places of retreat^in case of an attack from an enemy. - The way of spending; their time appears to he Yery\ simple, and to ailmit of little variety. They rise with the sun ; and, after enjoying the cool of the evenin^J retire to rest a few hoan auer son-set. The making of canoes and mats, forms the occupiitions of the er^es; the women are employed in mannfactnrinip cloth; and the towtows are principally engaged in the plantations and fishing. Their idle liouni are filled up witli varions anHisements. Their young men and ^omen are fond of dancing ; and, on more ^emn oc- casions, they have boxing and wrestling matches, after the manner of the Friendly IslandH : though in all these respects they are much inferior to the latter. Their dances have a much nearer resemblance to those of the New Zealanders, than of the Otaheiteans or Friendly Islanders. They are prefnced with a slow, I solemn song, in which all the party join, moving theirl legs, and gently striking their breasts, in a manner, [ and with attitudes, that are perfectly easy and grace- ful ; and so far they are the same with tne dances of thQ Society Islands. Their music is of a ruder kind, having neither flutes nor reeds, nor instruments of any other sort, that we saiv, except di-ums of various sizes. But their songs, whidi they sung in parts, and accompanied with a gentle motion of the arms, in the same manner as the' Friendly Islanders, had a very pleasing efiect. It is very remarkable, that the people of these islands I are great gamblers. They have a game very much Kke our draughts ; but, if one may judge from the nomber of squares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty*eight squares, of which there are fourteen in a row, and they make use of black and white peb- bles, which they move from square to square. There is another game, which consists in hiding a stone under a piece of cloth, which one of the parties spreads out, and rumples in such a manner^ that the 4 place THtRD VOYAO|S. 430 pitvcf where the stone lies it» diflictiU to be di»tiiig;uiHh- ed. The antagonist, with a stick, then strikes the pfirt qf the i>]otn whei^ he iinafpnes the stone to be ; tnd as the chances are, upon the whoh;, considerably tg;ainst his hitting^ it, odds of all deforces, varying with the opinion of the skill of the parties, are laid on the jsjde of him who hides. Qcsides these games, they frequently nmn.se them- lielves with racing matches between the boys and drls; and here again they wager with ^eat Knirit. fsaw a mun in a most violent rage, teanng his liair, Lid beating his breast, after losing the hatchets at. oqe of these races, which he had just before purchased Ifrom us with half his sul>stance. Swimming is not only a necessary art, in which both Itheir men and women are more expert than any peo- ple we have hitherto seen, but a favourite diversion imoncfst them. One paiticuhir mode, in which they Sometimes amuse themselves with this exercise, in Karakak^oa Bay, appeared most perilous and extra* prdiDary, and well deserving a distinct relation. I The siirf, which breaks on the coast round the bay^ extends to the distance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore, within which space the surges of the sea, accumulating from the shallow* ness of the water, are dashed against the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from stormy wea- tlier, or any extraordinary swell at sea, the impc* jaosity of the surf is increased to its utmost height, ibey choose that time for their amusement, wt^ich is penormed in the following manniT : Twenty or thirty m the natives, taking each a long natrow boardj, Iroanded at the ends, set out together from the shore. iThe first wave they meet, they plunge under, and Ifofferingit to roll over them, rise again l>eyond it, and lumke the best of their way, by swimuting out iiito Ithe sea. The second wave is encountered in the' lame manner with the first; tlie great difficulty is itt iKtting the proper moment of diving under it, which, lif missed, the person is caught by the surf, and' piven back agtiiii with great violence; and airhi^ n . * 491 Besides the oinusements I hare already mentioned, the youn^ children have one, 'which was mb^lt^laVcd at, and snewed 'no small degree of dexterity. Tncy take a short stick, with a peg^ sharpened at both ends, tunning through one extremity ot it, and extending about an inch on each side; dhd throwing up a ball made of green leaves moulded together, iihd sectire^ with twine, they ctjitch it on the pioiirt ^' the pe|^ ; and imnuHiiately throwing it u^ again frohi the peg*, they turn the stick round, and thus l^e^p catching it 01) e<|ch point alternately, wii}iout missih^itfoi^a cbn- udcrable timei^ They are not less expei^ at sinotber game of the same nature, tohsitig it up in th^^ir, and i»tching in their turns a number of thesti balls ; so that wc frequently saw little childrlen thus keep in ihotion five at a time. With this latter play,' the vouiig people likewise divert themselves at the ]rriendiy Islands. The great resemblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and navigation, amOngst all the inhabit tants of the SouthSealslands, leaves nietery little to add on those heads. — The inosrc curiou$ sbecitnens of their sculpture, which we saw during bttif second visit, are the bowls in which the chieft drink ivt!:' These are usually about eight or ten iiiches.ih diai^'^^ter, per- fectly round, and beautifully polisiiikl.' They are silp- Srted by threes and soinetimes fout t^nfiiStt' human ures in various attitudes. Home of them'^t^^,t on the liands of their supportei^„ extended over the hetid ; Ethel's on |)ic head and haiids; and sonie dtftlh^^houll' ders. . The figures, I am tcild^ are accurately^pt>|}or- tioaed, and nei!itly finished, and even th^Vn«<{nhy '^ the muscles, in supporting the weight, well expr^^ed. Their elqth is hiade of the same mat^rikK j^nd in thesameBuinii^r as at the Fiiendty and Sdciei3^rtiland$., That which is designed to be painted, is of d' thick and strong texture,, several folds being b'eatc^a and Inec^^po- rated tojrether; aftei; Which it is cut in br^sidths, about two or mree feet wide, and is j)aihted in a variety of patterns, with a coipprehemiiTehess' i^ ^8i|r^> tftat btf^peats infinite ik$Ui%ia^ ^hcy. Th« ' ^ «^ Qqq^2 ek^ctoes^ PI iti li ;i'f:-. ■■ -If. '•*- % '^ ^2 # - CAPTAIN fSOOK S exaetiMKB wi& which the most intricate patterns art^ contiAtte4t, i»^ the more sQrprisinjgf, when we consider ttiatthey nave no stiunps, and that the whole is done , hy the ev^, with pieces of bimboo cane dipped in patnt| the liand beings siipported hy another piece of the cane, in the maimer prt^ctised by rar painters. Tlieir coloaifs are extra most CQmmoa are about two or three inches loiig, and m^^ shape of a small fish, which ;;Serye8 i^ a bait, Iwying a bunch of feat!«ers tied to the l^eaA OF ts^l.^ Those with which they fish for sharks, ^r<^ (oif a, vqi^y large siisei being generally six or eight mohes hiiig. Considering the naaterials of which these * hooks ,w >ii> j-j,.^^ %■ i ♦ ^diiC]> irotA^ie: ' 49B Hooks ar Uncfi 8iip^tk>r to otnr ^ihi. . The litkewhi/%ad ii iiiadis of the bark of the toota, vr ^b^ tree, neatly and evehty twisted in the same man-' ptt:P0. :Mir «i6iiiitfoii t\^me ; iind may be cbntiniied to afiiy lenglli. They hate a finer iKyrt, made of the bark «f t smullliHib ori^led Areemah ; and the finest is made of hMMin hiiir ; but tbis last h diiefiy used ibr ihiA^ of omament. i^hey idso make a eordaee of a stronger kittdylor'theTigg^ of their caiioen, from the fibrous Uatiii^ctf'tlre'eoc^BaiHiuts. Sohic of thni we purchased IfM'iiitf^^lvt ftsi^ UnA fbiifld it Will adapted to«the iriallet'l;iiids^i^ittiingi%gitt#. They Kkewiseniak^ ltt9tlier'^H^ i^6tdiige» whioh is firineipellly in lathing the roofing of tbetr houseiL or Wnatever they wish to fasten tight to^ ^di^/"!Fhis'tefti»6ot twisted likd the former sorts; trttthrimlde of the fibrous string^ Of the cocoa-nat^i cbfl^tf, 1 pitiited with the fingers, in the manner o«^ kifori^V&ke their points for the reefing of sails. ;'^Kf<. Thegooid^ l^roW'to so enormous a size, that soMia efthem are iitipiMi of cbiitalning from ten to twe1t« gallons, are* applie^tballmaaner of domestic piw^ poses, and-^n oideAo fit them th^ "better to their re^ mective uiies^ they hkyeHie ittgenuity to give them fflfierent forms, 'bV tying bandages round them during their growth. Thus, some ot them are of a lotig ^l^drical fbrm, as best edapted to contain their iishmg-tackle; others are of a dish form, and these ierye to hold their salt, and sslted provisions, their puddings, vegetables, Stc, Whfch two sorts have tijeat close covens, made likewise of the goiird ; others again tm exactly thc^hape of a bottle witha long neck, and in these they keep their water. They have hkewise 4 method of seoring them with t heated instnunent, so as to give them the appearance of being painted in »x ttri^' of neat and ek^nt^desigA. -^ -■ 494 C49XAIN CjtHUCS % Fvofl^die Sflaidw|4^^aiidi}C>'pta(in4^ke beet hit- cottr9etoifce,C9&9t of fQ9ui>MQhatka« i|i sight ^(w^i he came on the 22d of April,r 1779. Oi^ the 25tii lie lort sif^ttif^e I>iiM}«[v0ry') W (^onii^g^ ta anchof in the bay of Awatska -cfii'the 5^h, at |M>i]ie>c^8i;i^Gefr)^ia the sni^} tpwn an4al0s»r; .!^ut, I in this wrenched extremity of thje^'j^arth^i^tuated be* yond every thing; that ^omd he ^ncetf e4 to b&moBt barbat^iMs ami inhe0pH«ihle, and t^^ Wjore^oHtfof tha very i^each of ; )i?iviUza|;ion> . hv^mi^^fi^'jiif^^^ aod eoyered with 9pi»PW5r ??npw, ipi .<* rpo9|feI|liJ^er^^^^ j^hjn^dor to; th^ ineaQ^^t of put'$|[^ii|g tq^^, |1^ ittet.tfith leeliiigsi^ff iumamty^rjciiB^ of mindt.ivhich wQlik) have doiierhopii^r tq^aiiy ^\^^ nr ciiiiilite« : . fh.^ , ^i •;■../ .liifiv/- > >-••:;'>,. ; The MTiyal of the ships gave.g^t a)qm at;^cit| 10 the command^^r '$i P^tropaulo^skii ')l>ut.p)^9per «s^ i^anations and r^onsequent civi][itic^ aoon tdoH v}f^cf\ Mr. King* Mr. WebW» and . two sulors* w^Judl each a boat-hook^ bping.sie^t .tOvWMit i^o tfi^.pom-l manderr who yrm^ a serj^^t in, t]biie;JGUu8ian ser^iceJ met with great di^Gulties in ,iy{|}l^ii^ over the itxi which extended half's^ mil0;fi^mlth3ii$ipre. On theirf return, therefor^^ the- senijea^f; prQvidi^ a sledgej drawn by five dogs^ with aV river for ^ach of th^J ^he 9ailor8 wcr^ hi'giily deUghted wgth this mode o^ couhrcyanee; and whaMlivert)e4the|^.«tiiimore waij that: a sledge was appropriated itjpt^j^^cli of the iKKit As there was iiojnossibility of pit>ciiri|ig provisionil QC; naval stores at iPetropaulowi^i, and .as t}^ serjeantj could not act in this ai^air withoutf^o^ers from th^ flusaian commande1^''c;f l^amtschatka^ who resided JBolcheretsk, a town 6|i thewastside of the peninsulaj distant from Petropaulowski abputJt^^iiles; thetierj jeant, on the first iixt^vie\y, had dispatched a mess^i jger^f^ his superior officer. This messenger, who m f^IRD voyage; 49i& I lenl oflToh the 20th, ahout noon, in askdge cirawn by dog&i returneci (n the com^ mander at iBolcheretsk, they set onion the 7th, accom^ ranied by Messrs. Fedosithch and Fort, and two Cos- ^ sacks. Fart of the way they proceeded by the tedious and difficult navigation of the river Awatska. In ths evening they erected a marquee, and slept on shore; In the morning of the 8th, they were met by the Toi6i; or chief of the Ostrog of Karatchin, (nnOstrog is. a imall town, fortified by pallisadoes, where the Russian Cossacks and other inhabitants reside) who, having been apprised of their coming, had. provided canoed I that were better oontrived for navigating the lighter part of the river. When they arrived at the Ostrog, they were received at the water-side by the Kamtscha- dalemen and women, and some Russian servants be- vlomrl>^f to iFedositsch. Thev were all dressed out in t^ r be 5t clothes. Those of the women were pretty rf^jf consisting of a small loose robe of white nan^ ^keeu, c gathered close round the neck, and fastened vith a colJai> of coloured silk. Over this they wear a short jacket without sleeves, made of different colour- ed nankeenb, and petticoats of slight Chinese silk. 1 1)heir shifts, which had sleeves down to the wrists* ^ere also of silk ; and coloured silk handkerchiefs ^re bound round their heads, concealing entirely tha bir of the married women, while those that wera ^n.;iatn€d brought the handkerchief under the hair^ {lud salf«red it t^ flow loo>e behind. This Ml' 406 CAPTAIN COOK 9 This Ostroflf ^as pleMORtfy ^tdated hy ihiemtdt ^\ tbe rivei»y and consisted of three joff-lioiises ; thre^ [ jdulrU* or bouses made under grved an excellent eook, and serv^ as wiUi fish and gam^ c^ different sorts, and variout kinds of heath | berries» i 'lad been kept since tlie last year. . Wbile vi were at dinner in this miserable but, the] guests of tbe people, with whose existence we had been ^aroe acquainted, and pX the extremity of ithe habi^ table globe, a. solitary halfwoun pe wier 4ip^n^ whose abape isras. famitiar to us, attracted oar a^^oii ; and on examination, we found it stamped on tbf> Wk with the word " Ixtudon." I cannot pasf ^ver Ais cirqum* utaikoe in silence, out of gratitude for tbe jn^iiy pleii- jiant tbougbts, the anxious bopesj an^toQjde^r^m- brances it excited in us. TboMwbob^yeeypenence4 thj^ eflects that long absence and( ei^trtme distance from their uative country produce on tbct mind, will readily conceive the pleasure suoW tn0i|ig incidents cfUi gite. To tbe philosopher i^nd the ppHtician they Inay perbaps suggest reflections pi 9^ iw^vttit nature.! ' After tlie most boiqpitabiie treatment duling the Gounel 0f the day, Mr, King and his party, wbo were now! to proce^ 00 sledges, retired to rest, bavinff previously I agireed with their conductors to be^calfea up as soonl AS ^e ground was har4 enough to bear tbe sledges.! At nine m the evening* they were awaked by the me- Jani^ly bowlings of the dogii, which cpptiniied all the time the baggage was lashing upon the sleclges ; but, 1 SOOI '{,,^ ■f ■ "«, '■"V:-: 7:?W> soon as thi pared to yelpings, i qia»*clied o riie boc li'dlf long, crescent, o1 with wicke better sbrl blue colom other furs. feet higli, ^ or six incl beyond the before in tl bon^sofspn is orriaracni coloured cl( karuess i$ jc I the jingling to the dogs. one person i jfeet ofi the I I provisions 9 bundle behi I number, yoi ieins not be I to the collar [therefore ge driver depe voice for the leader is alv carje knd atte extraordinar steadiness; ii assured, fortj price, The stick, which feinsj.asbys |inoderate the U THIRD VOYAGE, 49? soon as the dogs were yoked, and they were all pre- pared to set out, this changed into a light chcerftd yelping, . which entirely ceased the instant they iiia»*ched off. rhe body of this sledge is about four feet and a lialf longv ^nd a foot wide, made in the form of a crescent, of light ton gli wood, strongly bound together with wicker-work; which in those l»elon<»*iug to the better sbri of people is elegantly stained ot a red and hhie colour, and the seat covered with bear-skins, and other furs. It is supported by four legs, "about two i'eet high, which rest on two flat pieces of wood, five or six inches broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the body of the sledge. These are turned up before in the manner of the skate, and shod with the bon^s of some sea animal. The forepart of the carriagie is ornamented with thongs of leather, and tass^els of coloured cloth ; and from the cross bar, to which the harness is joined, are hung links of iron, or small bells, the jinghng of which they conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are seldom used to carry m'bre than one person at a tiine, who sits at one side, resting his feet oji the lower part of the sledge, and carrying his provisions and other necessaries, wrapped up in a bundle behind him. The dogs are usually live in number j yoked ^wo and two with a leader. The reins not being fastened to the head of the dogs, but to the collar, have little power over them, atid are therefore generally hung upon the sledge, whilst the ^driver depends entirely on their obedience to his I voice for the direction of them. With this view, the leader is always trained with a particular degree of I pare ^nd attention ', some of them rising to a most extraordinary value, on account of their docility and iteaj^iness ; insomuch, that for one of these, I am vtrell assured, forty roubles (or ten poimds) was no unusual price, The driver is also provided with a crooked stick, which tvnswers the purpose boih of whip and pins ;. as by striking it into the snow, he is enabled %o inpierate the speed of the dogs, or ^efen to stop tli6m U B r r entirely j -1 40S CAPTAIN cook's entirely ; and when they are lazy, or otherwise inat- tentive to his voice, he chastises them by throwing it at them. Upon these occasions, their dexterity in pickin&f it up again is very remarkable, and forms the principal difficulty of their art. But it is indeed not surprising, that they should labour to be skilful in a pi'aotice upon which their safety so materially depends. For, say they, if the driver should happen to lose his stick, the dogs will instantly perceive it, and unless their leader be of the most sober and resolute kind, they will immediately run a-head full speed, and never stop till they are quite spent. But as that will not be the case soon, it generally happens that either the car* riage is overturned, dashed to pieces against the trees, or they hurry down some precipice, and are all buried in the snow. The accounts that were given us of the speed of these dogs, and of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatig^ue, were scarcely credible, if they had n6t been supported by the best authority. We were ourselves witness of the great expedition with which the messenger, who had been dispatched to Bolcheretsk with the news of our arrival, returned to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, though the snow was, at this time, exceedingly soft. But I was in- foimied by the commander of Kamptschatka, that this journey was generally performed in two days and a naif; and that he had once received an express from the latter place in twenty-four hours. The dogs are fed during the winter on the offals of dried and stinking fish ; but are always deprived even of this miserable food a day before they set oat on a journey, and never suffered to eat before they reach the end of it. We were also told, that it was j not unusual for them to ^^ontinue thus fasting two en- tire days, in which time they would perform a journey of 120 miles. These dogs are in shape somewhat like the Pomeranian breed, but considerably larger. Travelling parties are often overtaken with dreadful storms of snow, on the approach of which, they drive If ith the utmost precipitation, into the nearest wood, und there are obliged to stay, till the tempest,, which '» frequently THIRD TOYAGBd 409 frequently lasts six or seven days, is over; the dogfs re- maining^ all this while quiet and inoffensive ; except that sometimes, when pressed by hunj^ei% they will de- vour their reins, and other leathern parts of the harness. As we did not choose to trust to our own sl^ill, wo had each of us a man to drive and guide the sledge, which from the state the roads were now in, proved a very laborious task. For, as the thaw had advanced very considerably in the vallies, through which our road lay, we were under the necessity of keeping along the sides of the hills; and this obliged our guides, who were provided with snow-shoes for that purpose, to support the sledges on the lower side with their shoulders for several miles together. I had a very good-humoured Cossack to attend me, who was, however, so very unskilful in his business, that we were overturned almost every minute, to the great enteitainment of the rest of the company. Our party consisted in all of ten sledges. That in which fcapt. Gore was carried, was made of two lashed together, aud abundantly provided with furs and bear-skins ; it had ten dogs, yoked four a- brea.st; as had also some of those that were heavy laden with baggage. When we had proceeded about four miles, it began to rain; which added to the darkness of the night, threw us all into confusion. It was at last agreed, that We should remain where wo were till day-light ; and accordingly we came to anchor in the snow, (for I can- not better express the manner in which the sledges were secured), and wrapping ourselves up in our furs, waited patiently for the morning. About three o'clock we were called on to set out, our guides being appre- hensive that if we waited longer, we might be stopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed, nor to return. After encountering many difficulties, which were principally occasioned by the bad condition of the roadi^at two in the afternoon, we got safe to Ostrog, called Natcheekin, situated on the side of a stream, vikkh Mh into t)ieBplchoireka, a little way below the town. Th^ distance between KaratchinandNatcheekin K r r 2 is 600 CA*PTAIN COOK 8 is 38 wersls (or 25 miles) and had the hard fi'oftt con- tinued, we should not, by thfeir account, have bet n more than four hours in performing it ; but the snow Was so soft, that the dogs, almost at every step, sunk up to their bellies ; and I was indeed much surpri/ed at their fieing at all able to overcome the difiicalties of so fatiguing a jouniey. At Natcheekin we were received in the same hospitable manner as at Karatchin ; atid in the after- noon we Went to visit a remarkable hot spring, near this village. We saiw, at some distance, the steam rising from it, ^s from a burning cauldron, and as wc Approached, pNer6eived the air had a strong sulphurous smell. The maiti spring forms a bason of about three feet in diameter; besides which, thei-e are a nutnber of lesser springs of the sakne degreie of heat, in the adjacent ground, so that tlie whole spot, to the extent of near ati acre, was so hot, that we could not stand two minutes in the same place. The water I flowing from these springs is collectied in a small l>athing pond, and afterwards forms a little rivulet M^hich^ at the distance of abdut an hundred attd fifty yards, falls into the river; The bath, they told m; liad wrought great cureisin several disorders, such as| rheuiAatisms, swelled and contracted joints^ and scor- butic ulcers. In the bathing-place, tne>thetmometer| waiS at 100 degrees, or blo()d heat; but in the spring^, aiter beins^ immersed two minutes, it was ten degrees above boiling spirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time, Wfts B4 deg. iu the river 40 deg. and in the Toin*s hoijse, 04 deg. The ground wferethew tsprings broke out, is on a gentle ascent; behind which there is a green hill of a moderate size. Iam| sorry I was not suffiieiently skilled in botaity to ^xa- tkuftO the plants^ which seemed to thrive here i(ith I great luxuriance ; the wild garlic, indeed, forced itself on Our notice, and it was at this time springing up| vei^ vigorously. The remainder of the way we proceedied in ca- 'fioes iip the river Bolehoireka, and «n the 12th, in I • the TniRD voVaoe. fiOl the forenoon, arrived at Bolcheretsk. We were received at the water side by the commander, in a manner the most eng'agin^ that coutd be conceived* Iirrompany with major Behm was captain Schmalefl^ the second in command, and all the merchants of the place. They conducted as to th« commander*s house, where we were received by his lady with ^reat civility, and found tea and other refreshment* for us. After the first compliments were over, Mr. Webber was 'desired to acquaint the major with the object of our journey, with our want of naval stores^ flour, and fresh provisions, and othei* necessaries for the ships* cr^ws, and at the same time to assuro ttim, that we were sensible, from what we had already seen of tbe country about Awatska Bay, we could not expect much assistance from him in that quarter 5 that the impossibility of sending heary brass stores across the peninsula, during the present season of the year,'' was but too apparent, from the difficulties wfe had met with on our journey ; and that, loog before toy material change could take place, we should ht Wider the itecessity of proceeding on our voyage.-^ W^ were here interrupted by the commander, who observed, that we did not know what they were capable of doing; that, at least, it was not his business to think of the difficulties of supplying our wants, but only to learn what were the- articles we stood in need of, and the longest time we could allow iin for procuring them. After expressing our sens^ of his obli gins: disposition, we gave him a list of the naval stores^ tne number of 'cattle, tipd the quantity ttf flour, we Were directed to ptirchase, and told iiimy that we purposed recommencing our voyage abo&t the 5th of June. Captain King next relates many particulars of thni Well-supported politeness and attention which they experienced in the course of the day. E^rly in tlw^ inoming, we received the compliment94}f ^e com* toander, of capt&tin ^chmaletiT, and of the princ^^el iphabitants of the town, who all honoured us with visits 602 CAPTAIN COOK S visits soon after. The two first having* sent for Port after we were gone to rest, and inquired of him what articles we seemed to be most in want of on hoard the ships ; we found them prepared to insist on our sharini]^ with the garrison under their command, in wliat little stock of provisions they bad remainin«r. At the same time they lamented, that we hud arrived at a season of the year, when there wa« always the greatest scarcity of every thing amongst them ; the ftloops not being yet arrived with their usual supply from Okotsk. We agreed to accept the liberality of these hos- pitable strangers with the best grace we could ; but on condition y that we might be made acquainted with the price of the articles we were to be sup- plied with ; and that Captain Gierke should give bills to the amount upon the Victualling Office in London. This the major positively refused; and whenever it was afterwards ur^ed, stopped us shortJ by telling us, he was certau) that he could not oblige his mistress more, than in giving every assist- ance in his power to her good friends and al' sthe English ; and that it would be a particular sati Son to her to hear, that in so remote a part of the world her dominions hail afibrded any relief to ships en- gaged in such services as ours ; that he could not| merefore act so contrary to the character of his em- press, as to accept of any bills; but that, toaccom-l inodate the matter, he would take a bare attestation! of the particulars with wliich we might be furnislicd)| and that this he should transmit to his court, as a cer- tificate of haying performed his duty. I shall leave] She continued) to the two courts all farther acknow- edgments ; but cannot consent to accept any thing oi the kind alluded to. When the matter was adjusted, he began to in- quire about our private wants; saying, he shouk consider himself as ill used, if we had any dealingi "With the merchants, or applied to any other persoo •9:c«pt himself. Inl THIRD VOYAGE. 503 return for such sinpfular generosity, we had Httle to bestow but our admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however. Captain Clerke had sent by me ) set of prints and maps, belonging* to the last voyage of Captain Cook, which he desired nie to present in his name to the commander; who being an enthusiast liu every thing rehUing to discoveries made in the present voyage, and, as I judged, tliut a person in his situation, and of his turn of mind, would bo exceedingly gratified by a communication of this sort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to as'k more than a few general questions on the subject, I made no scruple to repose in him a confidence, of which his vdiole conduct shewed him to be de- serving. I had the pleasure to find, that he felt this com« pliment, as I hoped he would, and was much struck it seeing, in one view, the whole of that coast, an well on the side of Asia, as on that of America, of which his countrymen had been so many years em- ployed in acquinng a partial and imperfect know- ledge. Excepting this mark of confidence, and the set of prints 1 have already mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the* least worth his ac- ceptance ; for it scarce deserves noticing, that I pre- vailed on his son, a young boy, to accept of a silver watch I happened to have about me ; and I made his little daughter very happy with two pair of ear-rings^ of French paste. Besides these trifles, I left captain 8chmaleff the thermometer I had used on my jouniev; and he promised me to keep an exict register of the temperature of the air for one year, and to transmit it to Mr. Muller, with whom he had the pleasure of being acquainted. Bolcheretsk is situated in a low swampy plain, that extends to the sea of Okotsk, being about 40 miles long, and of a considerable breadth. It lies on the N> side of the 3olchoi-reka, (or great liver,) between the h:'U P'llR [ ',t 501 CAPTAIN COOKS tlu; iiiouth of the Gottsof ka and t1)<», Bistraia, whidi here empty themselves into this river; and ilio pe- ninsula on which it stands, haw been separated froinj the continent by a largj^ canal, the work of the present commander; which has not only added to \\2 9iYGn^h as a fortress, but has made it mucli less llal»lel than it was before to inundations. Below the town the river is from six to eight feet fU\e[>, and about J quarter of a mile broad. It empties itself into the! tiea of Okoisk, at the distance of twenty-two miles -I where, accordLng" to Krasiienicoft', it is capable ofl admitting vessels of a considerable size. There is uol corn of any species cultivated in this part of thol country; and major Behin informed me, that liigl was the only warden that had yet been planted. Tlii.il ground was tor the most part co\*ered witli snow.-j that which was free from it, appeared full of small hillocks, of a black turfy nature. 1 saw about twenty or thirty cows, and the major had six stout horses. These and their dog-s are the only tame animals they possess ; the necessity they are under, in the present state of the country, of kecpinj^ great numbers olf the latter, making* it impossible to bring up any cattle that are not in size and strength a I match for tliem. For, during the summer season,! their dogs are entirely let loose, and left to provide ^or themselves; T^hich makes them so exceedingly ravenoust that they will sometimes even atta(;k the| |>ullocks. The houses in Boloheretsk are all of one fashion,! bf'i'.ig built of logs and thatched. That of the com-| mander is much l9rger than the rest, consisting of thr^e rooms of a considerable size, neatly papered,! find which might have been reckoned handsome, ifl the tale with whi( h the windows were covered, had[ not given them a poor and disagreeable appcarrnce.! The town consists of several rows of low buildings, each consisting of iive or six dwellings connected! |(>gethery with a long common passage running thel o^ ■** lenijtK! THIRD TOTAOB^ &05 mnffih cf thorn ; dn. one side of whicli is the kttchtn Itnd store-house; ami on the other the dweHinff apart- wmta* Besfdei these, are barracks for ihe Kussian Mldlera tkn4 Cossacks; a ^ood lookin^^ ch^orch; and s| leourt-room ; and at the end of the town a j^reat num-f Iber of BafaganSy belonsfin^ to the Kauiptschadules, If he inhabitants, taken altogether, amount to betweti4 jive and six hundred. • ,^' The n€Kt mornina^ we applied privately to the mer-^ mt FedoKitsch, to purchase some tobacco for th« In'iiof^s, who had I>een upwards of a twelvemonth Ifithout this favourite coituuodity. However,, this^ Ike all other trantiaetions of the sanie kind^ oame imr Inediately to the mn.joir's knowledge, and 'we wore m aftei' surprised to find, in our hou^e^ four bass* of >aceo, weigfhingf upwavdis of lOOlb. ca(th^ which he l^gg^ed mi^ht be pi«e»>entcd in the nameof! hjmself» and Idle giirrifion under his command, to our sailors. At |the same time, they had sent us twenty loaves of fine igar, and a» many pounds of tea, bein^ articles they lerstood we were in gi-eat want dP, which they sgged to be indulged in presenting to the oiiicers. lAloug with these Madam Bhem, had also sent a pro- iKnt for Captain Clerke, consisting of fresh butter, honey, figs, ri«o, and some other little tilings of the line kicHl, attended witli mftny wishes, that, in his [tnfirni state of hetilth, they might be of service tp [im. It was in vain we tried to oppose this profumJui Irf bounty, which I was anxious to restrain, being pnvinced; that they were giving away, not a .sharlmong [the ktter was a ¥ery cuiioas fact wluch unijor Bliem eluted to us this morning, and which he said, but for U . S s 8 oar m m I d06 CAPTAIN GOOK*S «i¥r arrival^ he should have been totaUy^at akistol account for. itmi ; T^ifoihnii, . ii It is well known, that the Tschutski'are th^ only I people of the North of Asia, who haV0 tnaintainedj their independence, and resisted all the attempts tliatl have been made by the Russians to reduce them. The! hist expedition against them was undertaken in thel year 1750, and terminated^ after various iiuccess, inl the retreat of the Russian forces, and the loss of the! «iimmanding- officer. Since that time, the Russis Ahd r<2inoved the frontier fortress from the Anadyr tc ihe- Isg^i^a^ d river; that empties itself into the -fiorthferi^eKtsfdmity of the sea of Okotsk, and gives ita Tiainre to a ^ulf, situated to the west of that of PenshiiiskJ ih^rcrm thi8i>fQrty Major Bhem had received dispatchc the day of jbiu" arrival at Bolcheretsk, containing inJ ^elligence^^ihat a tribe, or party of the Tschutdki, h^ ^arrived at that place with provisions for friendship] and a voluntary oiler of tribute ; that on enquiring into the. cause of this unexpected alteration in theiij sentiments, they had informed his people, tha towards the latter end of last summier they had beei visited by two very large Russian boats; that the] «had been treated by the people, who were in theinj with> great kindness, and had entered into a leagi\e oj vfriendsliip and amity with them ; and that, relying oil .his frienaly disposition, they were now come to th^ iRffiUi^sian fbii, in order to settle a treaty, on such tcrnr , as might be acceptable to both nations. . This exin , ordinary history jiad occasioned much speculatioij . both al Ingiginsk and Bolcheretsk; and, had we nc furnished them witli a key to it, must have remained . perfectly upintelligible. We felt no small satisfactioj ' iKi having> thpugh accidentally, shewn the RussiaM iin this instance, the only true way of collecting tr' .. buie, . and iBxtending their doniinions; and in tlij ; hopes that the good understanding, which thi$ evei ,hath.given rise to, : may rescue a brave people froii the futi;q:e invaisions of such powerful neighbours, i ' . i y ■ II THlltB VOYAGE, 501 . In return for the trifles which Mr. King had given tp the children of Mr. Bhem, he was presented by his little boy with a most magnificent Kampt!»chadal^ dress ; it was of the kind worn by the principal Toions of the couhtry, on occasions of great ceremony, J^nd which he understood afterwards from Fedpsitsch, could not have been purchased for 120 roubles. At the same time, he had a present from his daughter of a handsome sable muff. The next day we dined with the cotinniander, ^ho, in order to let us see as much of the manners of the ' inhabitants as our time would permit, invited the whole of the better sort of people in the village to bis house this evening. All the women appeared very splendidly dressed, after the Kamptschadale fashioii. The wives of Captain Schamaleii and the other offi- cers of the garrison, were prettily dressed, half in the Siberian, and half in the European mode*, and Madame Bhem, .in order to make the stronger con- trast, had unpacked part of her bage, and put on a rich European dress. I was much struck with the richness and variety of the silks which the women wore, and the singularity of their habits. The whole was like some enchanted scene in the midst of the widest of the most dreary country in the woi id. Our entertainment Consisted of singing and dancing. Early in the morning, every thing ing ready for our departure, we were invited to call «oii MiKlume Bhem, in our way to the boats, and take our leave of her. Impressed, as our minds were, with sentinuiits of the warmest gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met with at Bolche- retsk, they were greatly heightened by the aiiecting scene which presented itself to us, on leaving our lodgings. All the soldiers and Cossacks behinging to the garrison were drawn up on one hand, and the male inhabitants of the town, dre^stied out in their bast ' clothes, on the other ; and, as soon a^ive came out of the house, the whole body of the peopl^ joined in amex lauchoiy soug, which, the major tOld ua, it was ubii:^ tj^^ I SssSj^ ...„i^» to 60^ jCAPTAIK tJOOK S in that coiitttry, to smg tia iakihg leave pf their fiiends. In this manner we maixked down to the -coliii&ander's I lk>ose, pi-eceded by the drnms^nd ilitisic <^ the gai% i^ison, where we rrere received k^ Madanie Bhetn, at- 1 l^mled by the ladies, who were dressed in long «i)j^ | •cloaks, lined with very Valuable tes of di^reotl >C!oloiir.s which made a most magnifioeat appearance. • '■ After partaking of some refiiBshmetit that was pi^ I pared for us, we went down to tlie waftfer side, accokii'* {lanied by the ladies, wlio now joined in tke so^g ifrith the I'^st of tile inlialbitants, and as •soott as we had taken leave of Madame Hhem, and asaured her of thji grateftil sense we should evei* detain of the hospitality of Bolcheretsk, we found ouvselvcs too miioh affected ilot to hasten into tixe boats with all the e^^pedition'we -coiild. When we put off, the whole Oompamy ga^ig us three cheers, whidi we returned fvdm tlie boat ; andl as we were d0ubli>n;g a point, where for the la^t timel we saw om* friendly entertainers, they took thdr] fareWel m another cheer. i' On the return of the party to Petropaulowski, they I were accompanied by M-aJor Bhem, wiio had resignedl the government of Kamptsdiatka to his seco^ ial Command, and was to proceed l»henoe to Okotsk, ii his way to Petersburgh. They aiiTived sit Petropau- lowski on the 2dd } and Captain Gierke, and his menj did not fail to (behave with all the respect^ to ?the majorj whioh his nofble conduct had merited. The varioui c«i*iosities that had been collected in the course of the Voyage were shewn to him, and a complete asi^i'tment 4)f every article presented to him by Captain Gierke. On this occasion, I nmst not pass over an inslaacc of great generosity and gratitude in the sailors of boll ships;, who, when they were told of the handsoiuc present of tobacco, that was made them by the mt\jar] desired, entirely of their own accord, that their gJQg might be stopped, and their allowance of spirits pwj rented, on their part, to the garrison of Bolcheretskj an they «aid they had reason to conclude that brand) « *^hKM' S6aiiv« in :th« loouutry, and wvoyivg;erstill to undertake, determined to jiend, by him, the whoile of the journal ,of our late commander, with that part of his own, nvhich completed the period from Captain Cook's death, till our arrival at Kamtschatka ; together with the chart of all our discoveries. Mr. Bay ley dud myself thought it also proper to send ja.genera'l ac- liount (of our proceedii^g to the board of longitude ; hy which pr^^utiomi, if any misfortune- Jiad afterward befallen ti6 CAPTAIN cook's befallen us, the Admiralty would hare been in posses- sion of a complete history of the piincipal facts of our voyage. It was also determined, ^hat a small packet should be sent by an express from Okotsk, which, the uiajor said, if he was fortunate enough in his passawer. . ' ' On our fivst arrival, we found the Russian hospital, which is near the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the soldiers were moi'e or less affected with the scurvy, and a great many in the last stage of that disorder. The rest of the RnssiUn inhabitants were also in the same condition ; and we particularly remarked, that our iViend the Serjeant, by making too free with the spirits we gave him, had brought on himself, in the course of a few day«, some of the most alfrt-ming symptoms of that malady. In this lameutable state. Captain Clerke put then^ all under the care of the surgeons, and ordered a supply of sour krout, and malt for wort, to be fmnished for their — 1— .-fc St2 CAFTAfW COOK^S tfieii* use. tt Was astonishing to observe t^e alterdttdiii in tKe figures of almost dveify pei^on we met on 6nt feturn /rem Bolcheretsk; and I was informed, by our surgeons, thitt tfiey attdbuted th^ii" speedy rdeorery principally to the effects of the gWeet W(M. After several attempts tO cfi^ar the bay of Awatska, Capt. Clcrke finally left it oii the 16th of Jimd, steer- ing to the N. N. E. We eatinqt follow him In aH the tackings and noiitical circumstance^ that occurred, in his various attempts to go to th^ N. between the two continents : they were obstructed by irapeuetrabie ice. JDuring their voyap^e they had sometimes an Opportu- nity to hoist out their boats and' ^;end them in pursuit pf the sea-horses, which Weit^e in great numbefs on thd> pieoes of ice that sUrroundied Us; The people wei't nionp siiccessfiil than they liad b^en before, t'etumin^ With three large ones, and & youttff one; bdM^s kili- ingand wounmng several others. The gentletpen who Went on this party, were witnesseii of SeVetiA remark- able instances or parental a^eetid^n in those «hinials.-^ On the approach of the boats towards the i 514 CAPTAIN cook's fraijinent ; and the swell makin<>' it iinsaAi to lie to windward, and findinp^ no chance of t^ettintr clear, they pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and ma'n of our voy- age, to make any further attempts tow mxIs a passasfe. This, therefore, added to the representation of Capt. Gore, determined Capt. Gierke not to lose more time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, but to sail for Awatska Bay, to repair our damages there ; and before the winter should set in, and render all other eftbrts towards discovery impracticable at this thne, to explore the coast of Japan. I will not endeavour to conceal the jov that bright- ened the countenance of every individual, as soon as Captain Gierke's resolutions were made known. We were all heartily sick of a navis^ation full of danpfer, and in which the utmost perseverance had not been repaid with the smallest success. We therefore turned our faces towards home, after an absence of three years, with a delight and satisfaction which, notwith- standing the tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense distance we had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had been already in signt of the Land's-end. GHAP. X. 'Return to Kampfschatka — Death of Captain Cicrltc — An account of his services — Anchor in the harbour of tSt. Peter and St. Paul — Funeral of Captain Clerke— Departure from Awatska Bay — Captain King sent to Canton- -Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope — At the Orkneys ; and at the Nore — Con- cluding reflections, HAVING taken a final leave of the N. E. coast of Asia, they arrived, on the 21st of August, 1779, within sight of the coast of Kamptschatka. On the 22d, at nine in the morning, departed this life Captain Gharles Gierke, in the 38th year ot his age. He died of a consumption, which had evidently com- ':^tt 2 menced 516 CAPTAIN COOK S menced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gTaihial defray had long made him a melancholy object to his friends ; yet the e(|nanimity witb which he hon; it, the constant flow of good spirits, which continued to the last hour, and a cheerful resignation to his fate, afforded them some consolation. It was inipossihie not to feel a more than common degree of compassion for a person, whose life had been a continued scene of those difficulties and hardships, to which a seaman's occupation is subject, and under which he at last, sunk, He was brought up to the navy from his earliest youth, and had been in several actions during the war beo'un in 1756, particularly in that between the Brlona and Courageux, where being stationed in the mizen-top, he was carried overboard with the mast, but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was mid- shipman in the Dolphin, commanded by CommoihTe Byron, on her first voyage round the world, and after- wards served on the American station. In 1768, he made his second voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, as master's mate, and by the promotion which took place during the evpe lii- tion, h6 returned a lieutenant. His third voyaofe round the world was in the Resolution, of which he was appointed the second lieutenant ; and soon after his return, in 1775, he was promoted to the rank of master and commander. When the present expedi- tion was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the Discovery, to accompany Captain Cook ; and by the death of th.e latter, succecfletl, as has been already mentioned, to the chief command. Jt would be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, that durng the short time the expedition was under his direction, he was most zealous and anxious for its suQcess. His health, about the time the principal command devolved upou him, began to dechne very rapidly, and was every way unequal to encounter tne rigours of a high northern cli!i)ate. But the vig^our and activity of his ipind had, in no shape, rf suffered THIRD VOYAGE. 617 suiFered by his bocly : and thous^lvbe knew, that by delayinii^ his return to a wanner climate, he was giving up the only chance that remained for his recovery, yet, careful and jeahniH to the last dep^ree, that a resj'ard to his own situation should never bias his judgment to the prejudice of the service, he perse- vered in the search of a passi^ge, till it was the opinion of every oflicer in both ships, that it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be fruit- less, but dangerous. On the 'ilth, the Resolution entered the harbour of |, St. Peter and St. Paul, with the ensign half staff up, on account of their carry in s^ the body of their late captain. The Discovery ifollovved soon aftrr. We hau no sooner anchored, than our old friend, tht; seneujit, who was still the commander of the place, c;.nie on board with a present of berries, intended for om pour deceased captaui. He was extremely affected wijen we told him of his death, and shewed him the cotiin that contiiined his body. And as it was Capt. Citjrke'h particular request to be buried on shore, and if possible in the church of Paratounca, we took the piesent Of>portunity of ex[)laining this matter to the •ei.eant, ai\d contiulting with him about the proper steps to be taken on the occasion. In the course of our conversation, which, for want of an interpreter, wa> carried on but imperfectly, we learned that Pro- fessor de risle, and several Russian gentlemen, who dieo here, had been buried in the ground near the barracks, at the Ostrog of St. Peter and St. Paul; and that this ];lace would be preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be removed thither the next year. It Wi:s therefore determined, that we should wait for the airjval of the priest of Paratounca, whom the Serjeant auvised us to send for, as the only person that could miiHiy our inquiries on this subject. Ill the morning of the 25tn, Captain Gore made out the new commissions, in consequence of Captain Ciorke's death ; ajipointing himself to the comnkand of the Resolution, and me to the command of the Dis- co verv. 618 CAPTAIN COOK S covery. The same day we were visited by Lie Pope Romanoff Vereshag^en, thfj worthy priest of Paia- tounca. He expressed hi^ Si>rrow at the death of Captain Gierke, in a manijer that did honour to his feelings, and confirmed the account given by the Serjeant respecting" the intended removal of the church to the harbour ; adding, that the timber was actually pre|)aring, but leaving* the choifc^ of either place entirely to Captain Gore. In tl.e afternoon of the ^Oth, the last offices were paid to Captain Clerke. The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the grave, whilst the ships fired minute-guns ; and the service being" ended, the marines fired three voUies. He was inteiTed under a tree, which stands on a rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, where the hospital and store-houses are situated ; Captain Gore having jud«yed this situation most agreeable to the last wishes of the deceased, for the reasons above mentioned ; and the priest of Paratounca having pointed out a spot for his grave, which he said, would be as near as he could guess, in the centre of the new church. This reverend pastor walked in the procession, along with the gentleman who read th(^ service ; and all the Rus- sians in the garrison were assembled, and attended with great respect and solemnity. On the 30th of Septem!)er, Captain Gore went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an escut- cheon, prepared by Mr. Webber, with an inscription upon it, setting forth Captain Gierke's age and rank, and the object of ihe expedition in which he was en- gaged at the time of his decease. A board, with an inscription upon it to the same effect, was also affixed to the tree under which he was buried. It is here proper to observe, that from the 24th of August, when the ships first entered the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, to the 19th of October, when they finally cleared Awatska Bay, was employed in the necessary repairs of both ships, in the procuring of a proper supply of provisions and naval stores, and occa- ' sioiially THIRD VOYAGfi. 5 Id sionally in various amusements on shore, and the re(;i- procal exchange of civilities between the captains of the two ships, and the new commander of Bolcheretsk. Before we proceed on the voyage, it must be farther noticed that the instructions from the Board of Admi- ralty having left a discretionary power with the com- manding officer of the expedition, in case of failure in search of a passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return to England by whatever route he should think best for the farther im])rovement of geo- graphy ; Captain Gore demanded of the principal offi- cers their sentiments, in writing, respecting the manner in which these orders might most effectually be obey- ed. The result of their opinions, which he had the satisfaction to find unanimous, and entirely coinciding with his own, was, that the condition of the ships, as well as of the sails and cordage, made it unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of the year, to navi- orate the sea between Japan and Asia ; which would otherwise have afforded the largest field for discovery ; that it was therefore advisable to keep to the east- ward of that island, and in the way thither to ran along the Ku riles, and examine more particularly the islands that lie nearest the northern coast of Japan, which are represented as of a considerable size, and independent of the Russian and Japanese govern- ments. If so fortunate as to find in these any safe and commodious harbours, it was conceived they might be of importance, either as places of shelter for any future navigators, who may be employed in exploring these seas, or as the means of opening a commercial intercourse among the neighbouring dominions of the two empires. The next object was to survey the coast of the Japanese islands, and afterwards to make the coast of China as far to the northward as possible, and to run along it to Macao. This plan being adopted. Captain King received orders from Captain Gore, in case of separation, to proceed to Macao ; and at six o'clock in the evening of the i)th of October, as before observed, having cleared ^20 CAPTAIN COm-'s cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay, they steered to the south, alon;^ the coast of Kanitschatka. On the 12th they came in sisfht of Cape Lopatka, the southeramost extremity of Kamtschatka, lyin;^ in lat. 51 detr, long". 156 de^. 45 min. At the same time, they saw the first of the Kurile Islands, called Shoouiaska, and, on the 1:3th, the second, named Paramousir, which is the largest of the Kuriles under the dominion of the Russians. On the J 4th and loth, the wind blowing steadily and fresh from the west- ward, they were obliged to stand to the southward, and consequently prevented from seeing* any more of the Kurile Islands. This chain of islands, running in a S.W. direction from the southern promontory of Kamtschatka to Japan, extending from lat. 51 deg. to 45 min. is called the 'Kuril es, from the inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, who gave their own name to these islands, on first becoming acquainted with them. They are, according to S]>anberg, twenty-two in number, with- out reckoning the very small ones. The northernmost, called Shoomaska, is not more than three leagues from the promontory of Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of natives and Kamtschadales. The next to the south, called Paramousir, is inhabited by the true natives; their ancestors, according to a tradi- tion among them, having come from an Island a little fartlier to the south, called Onecutan. Those two islands were first visited by the ^Russians in 1713, and at the sam^ time brought under their dominion. The others in order, are at present made tributary down to Ooshesheer, inclusive, as Mr. King . was informed by the worthy pastor of Paratounca, who is their missionary, and visits them once in three years, -ana speaks of the Islanders in terms of the highest com- menaation, representing them as a friendly, hospitable, feuerouN, liuman race of people, and e.'.celling their .amtschadale neighbours, not less in the formation of their bodies, than in docility and quickness of uu- d«ritaud ing. Though Ooshesheer is the southernmost •; .<• island THIRD VOYAGE. 621 iskrid that the Russians have yet broug^ht under their dominions, yet they trade to Ooroop, which is the eighteenth; and where there is a^ood harbour for ships of burthen. Beyond this, to the south, lies Nadeegsda, which was represented by the Russians, as inhabited by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like those of Ooroop, live in a state of entire in- dependence. In the same direction, but inclining somewhat more to the wes^tward, lie a group of islands, which the Japanese call Jeso, a name which they also give to the whole chain of islands between Kamptschatka and Japan. The southernmost, called Matmai, hath been long subject to the Japanese, and is fonne they discovered ian iskiui, about five I inites Jongs, lyibginlat. 24deg. 48min.long.l'41deg. 12 inin. On thie South point of this is a high barren hill, V^hich tevidently presi^nted ^ volcanic crater. The eiiitlh, rock, or sand (for it "was not teasy to distingiiisli jdf which its suffdce fs comp6sed) exhibited variousl colours; and a considerable pait wasconjectutcd to bel sulphur, both from its aippearauee to the eye, and the] ^^t^oAg sulphureous smell, percei'ved as they approached] the fyoitet; and some tho%ht they MW steams risifl^j ft-ioto the top tof the hill. Frwn these circumstaaces Captain Gore gaVe it the name of Sulphur IslandJ 'fwb other ii^andi^ were likewise discovered; the ow fb the N. a^d the ipthev to the S, of S^hur Iskiui. . , Captain tHIRB VorAGE* 6-2^ Captain Gore now steered his course lor the fiashee Islands. These they missed, and on the 28tl^, passed the island of Prata. On the 30th, they tan along the Lema Isles, of which they had the same vieW as represented in a plate of Lord Anson*s voyagel They also passed the rock marked R,in liord Anson's plate; but instead of hauling up to the northward of the Grand Ladrone Island, as was done by the Centurion, they proceeded to leeward, a course against which Captain King had cautioned the marines. Two Chinese pilots were now taken on board the Resolution; and they finally anchored in the Typa, near the road of Macao, on the 2d of December. Here we received the first intelligence of the w*ar« Henee on the 1 1th, Captain King took passage, not without many previous aifficulties, to Canton, in order to expedite a supply of naval stores for the ships* Although he arrived here on the 18th, various de- lays prevented the accomplishment of this business till the 26th. ' On the 37th he left Canton, and took a passage down the riv^r Tygris to Macao, where he aii'ived the next day. Besides a handsome present of tea, which Captain. King received from the English super- cargoes at-Canton, he mentions, as a valuable acquisi- tion^ a large collection of our periodical publics^tions, which both served to amuse their impatience during til. ir tedious voyage home, and enabled them to return no total sti'angers to'what had been transacting in their native country. ' While the ships lay in the Typa, Captain King was shewn, in a garden belonging to an English gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the trajlitioii there goes, the poet Camoens used to ^t and compose his Lusiad. It is a vlofty arch of one solid stone, and forms the entrance of a erotto dug out of the risi^)^ ground behind it. T^ie rock k overshadowed by large spreading trees, and com- U u u 2 mands 524 CAPTAIN cook's mands an extensive and magnificent view of the sea, and the interspersed islands. Captain Gores previous to his departure from Macao, put both the ships in a very respectable state of defence, but having received undoubted intelligence that orders had been issued by the French court, and also by the American congress to all their com- manders, not to molest the ships that sailed under Captain Cbok, he thought himself bound, in return, to observe an exact neutrality during the remainder of the voyage. On the 13th of January, 1780, Captain Gore left the Typa,and on the 16th, passed the island of Sepata. On the 20th, they anchoretl in an harbour on the S.V/. end of the island Condore, in order to procure a supply of wood and provisions. Here it was found advisable that a party should go in the boat and land. While some of the men remained with Captain Gore, in the boat. Captain King and an armed party pro- ceeded through the woods till they came near two huts. On approaching them, they were descried by t^^o men, who immediately ran away, notwithstanding fill the peaceable and supplicating gestures that could be devised. On reaching the huts, I ordered the party to stay witHout, le.st the sight of so many armed men should terrify the inhabitants, whilst I entered, and recon* noitred alone. I found in one of the hats an elderly man, who was in a great fright,- and preparing to mak^ off with the most valuable of his effects that he could carry. However, I was fortunate enough in a veiy little: tittle, so entirely to dispel his fears, that he came out, and called to the two men who were run- • ning away to return. The eld man aqd I soon c^me to a pei-fect understanding. A few signs, par- ticuliarly that most signittcant of holding out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that were running about the huts in great pun^bers^ bft him without any doubts as to the real object of my visit. He pointed towards a place fHIRD VOYAGE. 025 hlace where the town stood, and made mc compre- tiend^ that by going thither all my wants would be, supplied. By this time, the young men who had fled were returned, and the old man ordered one of them to conduct me to the town, as soon as un obstacle should be removed, of which we were not aware- On our first coming out of the wood, a heixl of buf^- loes, to the number of twenty at. least, came running towards Us, tossing up their heads, snuffing the air^ and roaring in a hideous manner. They liad followed us to the huts, and stood drawn up in a body, at a little.distance ; and the old man miule us understand that it wou^a be exceeding dangerous for us to move, till thev striven into the woods: but so enragfed were the .-, 3 grown at the sight of us, that this was not eftecu d without a great deal of time and difficulty. The men not being able to accomplish it, we were surprised to see them call to their assist* 4ince a few little boys, who soon drove them out of Aftei-ward we had occasion to observe, that ia driving these animals, and securing them, which i$ done by putting a rope through a hole whick is made in their nostrils, little boys were always em- ployed, who could stroke and handle them with im* punity, at times when the men durst not approach them. Our visit to the town ei>ded in the purchase of a number of buffaloes. Karly in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both ships were sent to the town, to fetch the buffaloes we had purchased ; but they were obliged to wait till it was high water, as they couid at no other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their arrival at th^ village they found the surf breaking on the beach with sach force, that it was with the utmost difiiculty each launch brought a bufi'alo on board in the eveningly and the officers, who were sent on this service, gave it as their opinion, that between the violence of the surf, and the fierceness of the buffaloes, it would be extremely i i 620 CAPTAIN cook's extremely impradent to attempt bringing any more off .in this way. We had purchased ei^ht, and were now at a loss in what manner to proceed to ^et them on board. We could kill no more than what was just necessary for the consumption of one day, as in this climate meat will not keep till the next. At last it was concluded, that the remainder should be driven through the wood, and over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I h^d landed the Jay before, which being sheltered from the wind, was more free from surf. This plan was accordingly put in execution; but the uhtractabie and prodigious strength of the. buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult operation. The method of conducting them wa^, by passing ropes, through their nostrils, and round their horns ; but having been once enraged at the sight of our men, they became so furious, that they sometimes broke the trees to which they were often under the necessity of tying them : sometimes they tore asunder the cartilage of the nostril, through which the ropes ran, and got loose. : On these occasions, aU the exertions of our men to recover them would have been ineffectuk^l, without the assistance of some young boys,whon) these animals would'permit to approach them, and by whose little managements their rage was soon appeased. And when at length they were got down to the beach, it ■was by their aid, in twisting ropes round their legs, in the munner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw tliem down, and by that means to vget them into the boats. A circumstance, respecting these animals, which I ihought no less singular than this gentleness toward, and, as it should seem, ailection for little children, iwas, that they had not been twenty-four hours on aboard, before they became the tamest of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and a female, for a con- jiderable time, which became great favourites with the sailors, and, thinking that a breed of animals of such 2 tHIRD VOYAGE. 627 (tttch stren!»*th and size, some of them weighing, when dressed, 7001b. would be a valuable acqtisition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to En^« land; but my intention was frustrated by an incu- rable hurt that one of them received at sea. CaptatB Gore left Pulo Condore on the 28th, and steered for Pulo Timoun, which he passed on the ^lst» and the straits of Sunda on the 8th of February* They afterwards touched for water at the island of Oracatoa, and on the 13th of April came to anchor at the Cape of Good Hope. They remained at the Cape till the 9th of May, and on the 12th of June passed the equator, for the fourth time during this voyage. On the 12th of August we made the western coast of Ireland, and' after a fruitless attempt to get into Port Gal way, were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer to the northward. The next object was to put into Lough Swilly, but the wind continuing iq the same quarter, we stood bn to the northward of Lewis Island ; and on the 22d of August, both ships came to an anchor at Stromness. From hence Captain King wa;s dis- patched, to acquaint the Admiralty with their arrival; and on the 4th of October tho ships arnved safe a!t the Nore, after an absence of four years, tw« uK)bI^ land twenty-two days. CaptaiB King concludes his narration with the following interesting reflections : On quitting tkke DiscoY^i^ at Stromness, I had the satisfaction <:tf leaving the whole crew in perfect health : and ait the same time, the number of convalescents en board Hie Resolution, did not exceed two or thrce, of wbotfi only ks of biscuit, flour, malt, |iease, oatmeal,- and groai.s, which, by way of expe- riment, had been put up in small casks, lined with fin foil, and found all, except the pease, in a much better state» than could have been expected in the usual manner of package. I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the consideration of government, the necessity of allowing a suiHcieut quantity of Peruvian bark, to :8nch of his Majesty's ships as may be exposed to the iD^u^nce of unwholesome climates. It happened very foitunate in the Discovery, that only one of the men th^t had fevers in the straits of Sunda, stood in need .of this medicine, as he alone consumed the whole '; quantity usually carried out by surgeons in such vessels as ours. Had more been inflected in the same manner, they would probably all have perished, from the want of the only remedy capable of affording them eflectual fclieif. , ',:... :..:.. ■-.■■.::..-.' -^U ku^ '. '■ Another THIRD VOYAGE. 529 Another circumstance attended this 'yoyashi))s, Sec. sailed for Botany Bay on the 13th of May, 1787, and an- chored in that bay on the 20th of January, 1788, after a^wissa^c of thirty-six weeks. The day after the arrivirl of the fleet, governor Philip, accompanied by sc\ end officers, examined the Houth shore; but as Botany Bay, through want of water, and some disadvantages of sitiuition, was not deemed very convenient for the purpose, they pro- ceeded to explore the coast to the northward, examin- ing* every cove, and making* particular observations on the country. Amongfst other places, they examined an openinend- encies ; together with the acts of parhament for estab- lishing trials by law within the same ; and the patents, under the great seal of Great Britain, for holding civil and cinminal courts of judicature, by which all cases of life and death, as well as matters of property, were to be decided. The extent of this authority is defined in the governor's commission, to reach from the latitude of 43 deg. 49 min. N. to the latitude of 10 deg. 37 min. S. being the northern and southern extremities of New Holland. It commences again ii^ the 135th Ae^, of longitude east, and proceeding in an easterly direction, comprehends all islands within the limits of the above specified latitudes in the Pacific Ocean. As the dis- coveries of English navigators alone are comprised in this territory, it is presumed this partition will obviate all cause ol' future litigation oetween us and the Dutch. It appears from the commission considered in the whole, that government have been no less attentive in arming Mr. Philip with plenitude of power, thr.n extent of dominion. , It was found necessary to enforce the ngour of the kw, in order to restrain the violation of public secm'ity.. A set of desperate aad hardened miscreants leagued themselves -ii i a*! I il i^M APPENDIX. tbemselvcs for the purposes of depredation ; ?and, fts is generally the case, had insinuation enoug"h to entice others, less versed in iniquity, to become instrumental in^'arryin^ it on. While the governor was explorinff Broken Bay, which is contij^uous to Port Jackson, ne saw a great number of the natives. One of tlie fem.alen had formed an attachment to his great coat ; and to obtain it, slie used a variety of means. First, she danced and pla yed a number of antic tricks ; but finding this mode inciiec- tual, she had recourse to tears, which slje shod plenti- fully. This expedient not answering, she ceased from weeping, and. appeared as cheerful as any of the party around her. We have introduced this incident, to shew they are not a people devoid of art and finesse, "in order to obtain their ends. Though their women appeared with such few deco- rations, yet it was evident they had no aversion to finery. The surgeon observed, at a repast, wliereiu he grouped with the natives, one of the women who sat next to him, observing that he had a white hand- kerchief in his hand, v^xhibited a number of lascivioiw airs, in order to obtain it. He therefore tore it into ribbons, being desirous of multiplying one present into inan5% with which he decorated her head and neck. On her admiring tlie buttons of his coat, as he had nothing else left, he cut them away, and tied them round her waist. Thus ornamented, and diarnied with lier acquirements, she turned away, with a look of inexpressible archness and joy, which seemed to sheWy that, like the women in the South Hcas in g^enc- ral, they are fond of new ornaments. He also observ- ed, that there is no hospitality or harmony awong them; as appeared from their eating so greeddv, without regarding the accommodation of any about them; devoiu'ing the fish voraciously, which had been thrown on the fire, and scarcely warm. These peo[)le, in their appetites, are very voracious, as appears from tin:; following instance. One of the officers shot a bird, which fell at an old man's feet. APPENDIX. 6^ TKe explos-Qii at fii-st o^reatly alainued him ; ImU per-* ceiving' no ill was intended, he soon o*ot over his fears. The bird was then given to him, which, havings barely phicked,and not more than half broiled, he devoured^ entrails, bones, and all. A convict, who had been gathering what they call sweet tea, abont a mile from the camp, met » |wrty of the natives, consisting* of fonrteen, by whonv he was beaten and wounded with the siick used in throwing their spears. They then made him strip, and would have taken from him his clothes, and probably his life, had it not been for the report of some muskets, which they no sooner heard than they ran away. The destructive natui'e of their weapons, and their skill and adroitness in the use of them, will appear evident from the following circmnstauces. A convict, being in a state of convalescence, had obtained permis- sion from the governor to go a little way up the coun- try, to gather h(,rbs, for the purpose of making tea. This man, after night set in, was brought to the hos- pital with one of the spears used by the natives sticking m his loins. It had been darted lit him as he wa« stooping, and while his back was turned to the assail- ant. 1. nc weapon was ba) bed, and stuck so very fust, that it would a / APVI^NPIX. the Y^hi^i stdpesy some narrow and some broad: the* ii^inco^ ^vp ara\^ over the linobs^ and the broad ovep 1)^6 body> not .without soiiie degree of taste.. The^ white is also laid on in smsdl patches upon the face,* apd drawn in a circle roun4 each eye. The red« seemed to be ochre, but what|t|ie white was could not^ be discovered : it was close gftiined, saponaceous i^ the touch, and heavy. Besides, the paint with which< they besmear their bodies, they sdso use grease, or^ sQQ^^ stinking c^ly substance, jEcir the same purpose^/ Some of them ornament their hair .with the teeth of fish| fastened on by gum aB4 they,$eemed.t^ set so great ;a value, tW they would ney;er. part >yith the least article for any thiii^'thatcou}jdbeofFer<^d4r which was the mbro extraordmsLry, as ttie Europeai^ beads and ribbons were on^aments of tho sa^^ ^ini£ but of better fofrip, and more showy materi^s.; * i,| Though both ^$^xes, and Qios^ of aU ages, ,4ire ii^va^ riably found, naked, it must i^otbie inferred frc)nx ^% tl^t custom S9 inures them to. tt^exhanke s^ tlie ele- ment^,, as to mpKe them ^elir^.witl^ iudiifierence, th^ extremes of |)eai and cold ;,^mir. they giye y^ible ^ancl repeated prpois^ that the Ifitter "affects the?^ severely, when they are seenshivering aud huddling^thei^selyes up in heaps in their huts, or the caverns of ,the rocl^i until a fire can be kindled. These people have no fixed habitation ;^but r^pqse wherever they may be overtaken by nighty ana i-o '^ * Y y y 2 render 540 AVPEiiDrk. tender their situatioil as tolerable as potsiblfe, they f^ake a fire, which heating the reck alt rbnnd them, it becoines as warm as an oren,. and theV he huddled together upon the grass, which is first pull^ and dried to setre them as a couch. In this instance may be observed the kindness df Providence in th^ {ireserva- tion of his creatures. The inhabitants of these reniote regions liave not the least notion of erecting an edir ficte, or constructing any kind of shelter, from the in- clemency of the seasons; so far from it, they have not even devised the means of clothing their tiaked bodies. To reii^y these essenlti'al defects), it is so ordained by infinite wikdom, that the rocks on the sea-coast, as weH as those in the interior parts' of ^he country, are compdsed of soft, crumbly sandy stone ; the external ^ pails, which are most exposed to the rigoUr of the season, are generally of a harder te;Uure tl^an the in- ternal, which are less exposed; so that the latter gradually' n^oiildering away under the pressure of the roriner, ia. cavity is made, of dimensibVis suiUcient to contain fifty or sixty of these poor forlorn creatures, who are theteby provided with a tolerably comfortable lodging. In such parts as are not very rocky, they build a kind of huts with pliable rods no thicker than a finger, by bending them, and stidkitigthe two ends m the grot^rtd. The covering is of pbltn leave i and pieces of bkrk; and the entrance by a la^'ge hole, op- posite which the fire is made. These huts are design- ed for the accomniiodation of such as follow the huntiug t^f the kano^uroO, opcxssoms, rats, sqiiiri'els, and other iuimals which in^bit the Woods, and which, when pursued, ^en^^ly tuti ittU the hplloW of a tree. In order, therefore, to secu^ the animdl When found in the tree, a man climbs even the tailed tree with great ease, by nie^ns of notches cut with a stone hatchet in the tnitik at cijmvenient distances: whien lie reaches the summit, or any nart that may open a way for the escape of the animal, he fixes himself there with a club in his hand, while another below applies a fire, which fills the hollow of the tree with smoke 3 so that the \.^ • t APPEVmX. 541 tiie iinimal attemptinigf to escape, is almost certain of fumn^ apifeytoits pti;riilers. . ' '^'^ ' The only miliiture observed belonging to these huts, that fell ai^der observation, was a kind of oblong ves- sel, made of bark, by the simple contrivaiice of tying up the two ends with a withy, which, not being cut ofF,- server for a handle. *• TJfielr dhi^jf utensil was a small bag, about the sryse of a 'iri(j)derate cabbage-net, which is made by laying threaded, niust be ,a niostdifiicuitand tedious kbpur. To thg^e whp have been accustomed to the use of metal^ it appears altogether impracticable; but there are few dimculties tliat will not yield to patient pei^- severance; and he \!^hp does aU he can, will certainly pixxluce effects that greatly exceed his apparent PPwer.^ „■;■_ _■ ■''.■X"':\, . . ■ . The weapons used by the natives, are spears or lanpes> and those are of different kinds. Spine of them have four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed. Others A^PENDI^e. 543 Others have but one point. The s^^aft \i straight and light, and' from eight to fourteen feet long. They haire a short stick, whaH) a^istft them in throw- ing the Jyanre ; it is about three ftH long, flatten#^d on one siHe, with a hm}k of wood tt one end, and a jRat shell let into ft split in th^ «tick at the other, and fastened with gum. U|K>n the flat side of this stick the lan^e is laid. In the upper end is a i«iiiall hole, in which the point of tbr hook of the thi*owing-stick is fixed ; this retains the lance on the ffat side of the stick. They poise it, thu«i fixed, in one hand, with the fore- fingei* and thumb over it, to prevent its falling off sideways ; at the same time holding fast the throwing- stick, they discharge it with considerable force, and in very good direction, to the distance of about sixty or seventy yards. It was supposed by several of the colonisrts, who saw th#!«e weapons frequently thrown, that a man upon his guard might with ease either parry or avoicf them ; though they confessed the " flew with astonishing velocity. ' These spears, or lances, however, are dreadful wea- pons; for when once they have taken place, they can never be drawn back, without tearing away the flesh, or leaving the sharp ragged splinteris of the bone, or lbhell^ which forms the beard, behind them in the wound. They are thrown with great force and dex- terity. If intended to wound at a short distance, be- tween ten and twenty yards, simply with the hand ; but if at the distance of forty or fifty yards, or more, with the throwing stick. The coldnists were inclined to hold the spears of the natives very cheap. Fatal experience, however, convinced them, that thewoilnd inflicted by this weapon is not a trivial one; and that the skill of the Indians in throwing it is far from beings despicable. Nor are their weapons of ofterice con- fined to the spear only ; for they have besides long wooden swcitkSj shaped like a sabre, capable of inflict- a nioital wctind ; and clubs of an immense size. The natives, when equipped for any exploit, are armed with a shield, made of the bark of a tree, with aich r^#i,''.i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /> 1.0 1.1 11.25 m ^ Itt 122 u K4 IK u 140 2.0 V Photographic Sderices Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRIIT WIUTn,N.Y. MSM (716)t7a-4S09 ^ :«<^ ^'^ \ ^ i 544 AVVENDIX. which they ve)ry dexterously ward offany thinsr thrown at them. They have also a bludgeon, or club, about twenty inches longr, with a large and pohited end ; and sometimes a stone hatchet. These make up the catalogue of their military implements. But the prin- cipal means of annoying their European visitors, was by setting 6re to the bi|^h grass, which being very dry, burnt with g^eat rapidity, and did much damage. The natives of this country do not appear to enter- tain the most distant idea of religion, nor to have any object of adoration. They are as reg:ardles8 of the pun, moon, stars, or any of the stupendous works of the Creator, as they are of any of the animals which inhabit their extensive regions. It was evident that they burn tlieir dead, as a discovery was made of a fresn grave, on a survey of a distant branch of Port Jackson, by a party of tlie colonists. When the earth was removed, a quantity of white ashes was dis<;over- ed, which appeared to nave been but a short time de- posited there : among the ashes were found a part of a human iaw-bone, and a small piece of the skull, which, although it had been in the fire, was not so much injured, as to prevent ascertaining, beyond a doubt, what it was. The ashes were put together, and covered up as before. The grave was not more than six inches under the surface of the ground, hut the earth was raised as high a^ it is above tl^e graves in Europe. Of the animals produced in this island, the kan- guroo is one of the most valuable, and grows to a very considerable size ; some of them weigh not less than 150 pounds. A male of 130 pounds weigft has been killed, whose dimensions were as follows: Extreme length, seven feet thi'ee inches. Length of the tail, three feet four inches and a .'ialf. Len^h of the hinder legs, three feet two inches. Length of the fore-paws, one foot seven inches and a half. Circumference of the tuil at the root, one foot five inches. Notwithstand- ing this, the kanguroo, on being brought forth, is not larger than a rat. In running, this animal confines himself entirely to his hinder legs, which are possessed with with isver ofag tunat< their! The* has I feet. in whi raalec When flavoui tough eamiv flowen very d howevi The their e seldom be raoi dos* sei of him such a coverec guroo I hunters nearly tempts ferocity on the ( would t in defia been re mestica thenati Mared Europe colour. 12 AMnCNStX. 645 wi the injui*y did not go un- rev«ngedy for thousands immediately threw themselves upon them and gave them intolerable pain with their stmgSy ei^cially those which took possession of the neck and hair, from whence ^hey were not easily drrven. There are upon the leaves of the mangrove ffreat numbers of small green caterpillars; their toreheads are thick set with hairs, and they range upon the leaves side by side, like a file of soldiers, to the number of twenty or thirty together ; the hair of their bodiesy on touching them, have the quality of a nettle, and give a more acute, though less durable pain. This country abounds with beautiful plants and flowers, and is therefore adapted, to afSoird great entertamment to the curious in botany^ There were found some wild spinach, parsley and sorrd; but not ttt any quantity. The cmmate is undoubtedly very desirable to Five in. In summer the heats are usually moderated by tb^ sea breeze, which sets in early; and in the winter, the degree of cold is so sligiit atf to occa- sion but tittle inconveaienca. It is remarked, a» a eircumstance peculiar to this country, that every pstrt of it, even the most inao^essible and rocky, appear* as i^ at cevtaiiv times of the year, it was tdl on fire. Iudeed> ia Many parts large trees are seei^ the trunks and branches of which are etvidently rent and dsmolished by lightning. The grouod was so very di^ aad parehed, that poles or pegs coidd not be thriven into it without considerable difficulty. The 550 APPENDIX. The governor, invariably intent on exploring the coTiiiltry» having' formed a party, with unwearied in- dustry, and great toil, traversea an extensive track of ground, which appeared, from such observations as could be made, capable of producing every thing which a happy soil and genial climate can bring forth. The face of the country was such as to promise ;9uc- cess, whenever it should be cultivated; for the soil was found to be much richer than as described by Captain Cook ; as, in.^tead of sand, they found a deep black mould, which seemed very fit for the production of grain of any kind.' But such were the labour and difficulty attending the clearing of the ground, that, incredible as it may appear, it is a known fact, that ten or twelve men have been employed for five whole days in grubbing up a tree ; and when this has been eff(^cted tne timber has only been fit for fire-wood ; so that, in consequence of the great labour in clearing the ground, and the weak state of the people, to which may be added the scarcity of tools, most of those brought from England being lost in the woods among the grass, through the carelessneHS of the con- victs, the prospect of future success is not the most promising, till they can so far clear the ground, as to produce a suffioient support for the new settlement : but, however, th^% ricnness of the soil will amply repay them, when they can.surmount this difficulty. The timber is very unfit for the purpose of build- ing ', the only purpose for which it will answer is fire- wood, and lor that it is excellent: but in other respects it is the worst wood that any country, or climate can produce ; although some of the trees, when standing, appear fit for any use whatever, masts for shipping not excepted., Strange as it may be imagined, most 'of the wood in this country, though drieS ever so well, will not float. Repeated trials have only served. to prove, that, immediately on im- mersion, it sinks to the bottom like a stone. The trees were not of many species. Among others, there wai APPENDIX. 551 was a large one, which yielded a gum not unlik« that called dragon's blood. In the woods was found a tree, which bore fruit, that in colour and shape resem- bled a cherry : the juice had an agreeable tailness, though but little flavour. Between the trees the ground is covei'ed with grass, of which there is great abundance, growing in tufts as large as can well be grasped in the hand, which stand very close to each other. In those places where trees are scarce, a variety of flowering shrubs abound, most of them entirely new to an European, and surpassing, in beauty, fragrance, and number, all ever seen in an uncultivated state. Among these, a tall shrub, bear- ing an elegant white flower, which smells like English may, is particularly delightful, and perfumes the air around to a great distance. There is a kind of vine, running to a g^reat extent along the ground : the stalk is not so tnick as the smallest honeysuckle, nor is the leaf so large as the common bay-leaf, though somewhat similar to it ; and the taste is sweet, exactly like the liquorice root of the shops. Of this the convicts and soldiers make an infusion, which is tolerably pleasant, and series as no bad succedaneum for tea. The surgeon found it to be a good pectoral, and not at all unpleasant. Free-stone, of an excellent quality, abounds in this country, which was considered as a happy circum- stance, as it tended so materially to forward the in- tended plan of forming the town. The greatest impediment to building was a want of lime-stone, of - which no signs ha^ hitherto appeared. Clay, for making bricks, abounding, a considerable quantity of them were burned and ready for use. In the month of March, 1788, the iscurvy prevailed amongst the seamen, marines, and convicts, in a greater degree than when on board the ships, which appeared rather extraordinary, after having been some time on land, and obtaining the advantage of vegetable productions; but this was attributed by the gentlemen of the faculty to the necessity of 1 continuing 66t continmnr the fame ult diet: howc¥er, excepting iheaef and a few who were troubled wicii dysenteries, tbe people in general enjoyed a tolerable state of heahh. About the middle of May, a eonraleseent, who had been sent from the hospital to rather vegetables, was killed by the natives. Soon after this accident a report prevailed, that part of the hones of a man had been found near a fire, at which a party of the natives had been regaling themselves. Tliis repoit gave rise to a conjectare, that, as this man had been murdered near the spot, those who committed the act had de- voured him. It cannot be positively affirmed, that the natives of this place are in general cannibals ; but from this circumstance there is eround to suspect, that if the horrid custom of eating human flesh does not universally prevail, it is sometimes practised : indeed, it was coimrmed by the reply of a liatWe to one of the colonists, who, interrogatmg him on the subject, he acknowledged that o'ae of their chiefs had eaten a man he had slain. On the 27th of Augus't, the Supply tender arrived from Norfolk Island, whither she had been dispatched by the governor with stores and provisions for the set- tit^ment he had formed there: and in the month of October the governor sent the Sirius to the Cape of Good Hope* to purchase provisions for the accommo- dation of the eettlement; whence she returned, ftud anchored in Sydney Cove on the 8th of May, 1789. She had been absent 219 days, 61 of which she lay in Table Bay, Ci^ of Oood Hope ; so that it is observed by the oQeer who had commanded the Sirius, that although during[ the voyas^e, they had fairly gone ' ' " sy had deseribinfl: that circle. vottnd tbe world, they had only been 168 days in In the be^nmng of February^ 1788, governor PhiV |ip signified his 'intention of sending lieutenant King, of the Sinus, with some marines, and convicts, to form a settlement on Norfolk Iskmd. Accordingly, that offi- cer, AFPENBtflt 65l\ cer, having received his commi! frohi that celebrated navigator's huvinji^ discovered this inland, and landed near these rocks, ih 1 774. After several fruitless attempts, they landed at length on the side of a large rock, which lies close to the shore, at the west end of a small stony beach. This was supposed to be the rock on which Captain Cook landed, as there is no other place on that side of the island where it could have been practicable : But it was found an improper place to land either the peo- ple or stores, there beine no fresh water near it. • On the 4th of Marchy the cofnmandant, with his officers, landed arain, in order to take a view of the country ; and, 'after ascending; a very steep hill, 'got to the top of the island, which they found to be & plain; but every foot of ground was covered with trees, o^r larg^e roots of trees, which not only obstructed their passage, but obliged them to cut their way through them. During this excursion, they did not see aleaf of flax, or any kii^d 0|f herb: the ground, thoa|[h the soil was both rich and deep, was entiirely base. l!|tft>i^peared very singular, after Captain Cook had olii^'ed, that the flax plant was rather moie ftinindant liere than he had found it to be in New Zeoiand* Birds were seen in g^'eat number and variety^ iaehM|Mr|HgeoBS, parrots^ parroquets, doves. Ice. 'Tbey wcnre so reuiajrkably tame, that they were blocked doWil with; sticks^. As large pieces of pu- iiiice<«toiie wero'dispersedin^^evei^ part of the islaod, X« 4 A it I it wa^ imifgU^d that a crateri 0? thd re|vmii)«i of one, might DO found at or noar a snoun^n in iho middU *of tile island ; which, in, honour of the chancellor of th^ ,o:(chcm|er, was called IVlouut Pitt. At length, a place, afterwards called AnsonV Bay, baviQg oeon eicplored, wan found At for' landing. Hare» therefore, the eomttiandant was determined to fix } and 'iccordingl^y Qii the 0th of March left the Supply, with two Iwats, in whidi were all the per- suas belonging to the (fettlement ; togpether ^^|^ the tents, a part of tlie prov^siont ^nd nome of the useful tools. The^ being landed, they- began clearing a siiiall piece of ground to erect the tents i^n. The colours «were hoisted i apd, befere nun-set, every per- son and article belpngifig t4 thet settlement wiere on shore, and the ten^s pitched. @oon after landing, they found a very fii^ rivulet of waterr which ran close at the back of the grouvd where the settlement was fixed. As ther^ were only twelve men» o»e of whom was seventy-two year^ oM» and another a boy of fifteen, exclusive of the mate and surgeca, the ,progr^ of tl^ settleii^Bi^t lor some time vraa very ^ow. „ i . V .^ On the 9th of l\(arcb, (hei||^BnBd4y):eyeiT peiw .^on in tlie settlement a^sembM m ihe governor a tent, where he performec) divine service ; after which bis conuMission ii'om gov^moi^ Philip wan read« tipfK»iiitiBg lieutenant K^ipg sqpenntendent jyid cemmai^dtmt Vhich Ms well known • to all who have visited these^ cliiiiciB»' ^he r^ts, which abound here, destroyed the wheat Whieh Was sowii wittiin the slpace of three days; and as < the .olds>; to which> thou|i(lif thii'clniy ^tckne^s hiltherto «*(peri^i¥eed« the peophi wi^ VeryJ'sdbietit. The workmen, indeed, had been often blinded ft^r several diiys tbgfeHleir by^tife^iwhit* ^trti^'of a trcie, which, 'getting' ^nto theil;^ €iye»,<'^casioki^atl excruciating km\ Uv a considembl^ tltti^;' -The best iremedy was Florei^e oil, wfaiclii (being Hropped into -the eye, de^itsrof^d the aciifiiody bf ih(^ t^&p. ^e man was YoitaUy 'blinded with^iV^ wWar/i of timi^Fy application for relief. Tikvo* *8iiwym^^ tlie c^rpeht^i^, and three eonl^ielk were p6isdn«d by edting^iife beians, which •rei^iilljled tbeWind^r beati in txpfjiearance. They . Woi^ isei^^d e ui;«d t6 eixiirpate thetii, but without effect. ^! *; .v , J Oti/tfet)3th of March, 1790, apytm^ PhiKf) seat lieutenabt-gorernor Rom to. take .tb^ Qon^maiid o{ 3oTMk Ishind ; the sqiiice Ttndefitigi% iiecestfa]^ iibr liciitdMABt King^ M)ho was first apfpoi&te^ coiiikiittidBfiit* ttr fiitamvta Eoghindi m Order to give his foajesty^a nsnisti!rs such particuhir injbcmatioti rdativei to th« settfemettt he had eiltabhshed^ id could not be cqhyc^* ddhy letter. J Norfolk Island is situaled in the latitude of 30 deiprecs hiiii. south; and in the longitude, ^ 16$ 4eg0Bes min east. Its form is nearly' oblongs and it oOfUniils from twelve to fourteen thousand aqres. It is she miles in length, and four in breadth, The fac^ of itfa& country isi hiUyf and ftome of the y|^114es ^re tolerably krge for the size lof thorisland* Mftfiy o( Iher b^: are Yory tAeup, 0Md .smne few so y^ry.|>eT-^ fwhdiCHiiar that Ihey cannot he cultivated; lint where dodr^sstuations are» they ^wiil 4i^ yery.ifell fo? fuel ; on the tops of the hills are some very exte^isive B^fs* ivMtnsb6i^ Pitt is the, only reuMbiibably high hill in the ishmd^lalid is about one j^undred and fifty* fathoms "higifi The clifis whifrhsfuround the island are about {br^^thom& high, ilndperpendicidar; the basis of the if land is a bard lirui clay. The wliole island is cxMterdKliwith a thick wood, choaked up with a tidck lundek^ood. : The* air is reniarkably salubiiousi ks a fikoof of it, it is renuurked by ai» officer belonging to the settlement, that he never ki^erw the constitutions Either' of the human race, or any other, ftnimati more pcolifie in any pe^ of the world : two children at a burth if« no unc(immon thing ; i^nd ehierlv women, who) have believed themselves long past tne period 9f ohild^bearing, have jrepjeetedly &a as fine healthj dnldren as over wcrts seefi. There is not 0nly ^ fine ^vukt^'&tt. the back. <(f the ^tllement, n^ before &rVEKDVX, d59 : observed, but mnwf streams of wtAet 4arge cooii^ turn a mill; and .all these, streainfi aboiuid with ^ic «elf.. ^ The soil is in genfral good ; but from the sides of the^ctiffii which surround. the coast, to the summit tof Mount Pitt, it is excellent : varying from ' a rich br^wu mbnld fo n light red earth. (.* 'V.? There note. 6ve kinds of trees on the isloiid whidk are c^ood timl^er, viz. the pine, live oak, a yellow woodr, a haxd blacjk wood, and a kind of beach.. The . pine tjpees are of a large size, many of whidi are from one faimdred and eighty to tw6 hundred asd twenty feet in height, and from six to nine feet in diameter. The timber of the pine is very useful in buildings, and is plentiful along the coasts. The live oak, ydiow wood, black woou, and beech, are^ll of a dosa g^in. Mid a durable wood.. Sydney Bay, on the south side of the island, is where tbesettlemei^t is made. .Landing at this place entirely depends on tike wind and the weather. Soma* time» there is as good landing as in the Thames for a fortnight or three weeks together ; at othor times it is impnu^ahle to', land for ton or twelve dapfs suo^ cessively!!; but it is much oftener good landing thab bad, Anson Bay i6 a small bay. Tmtk a.sandy beach, where landing is in general gQjod with an oi^sh^i^ wind and moderate weather* BaU Bay ia -oii^ thfe smtth-inist sidt Af the isiand y the ;heaeh is «f lar^ loose stone. When landing is bad in Sydney Baf , it is very good here : as if is also in Cascade Bay^ oo ,lb& north side ef tlile island. fhB spring is visible in August;, but th^ native ive$9f and many plants in.tlie island, are in a oonstamt state of powering. The summer is warm, and soni»- limes the droughts are very great. Ail the rrain'atid European plants seeded .in. December Froiid F^ bruary.tos^iignst may be called die rainy season t iKit that > there are any. stated times for rains in ilkeiie labnthsy as it is soinetiroes very fine weathi^rftra iortnight: tog'ether ; but « when the rain does ^^ it* is • -4 in 660 AFPENDnr. in torrents ; bitt thunder is very rare. The winter is very pleasant, and it never freezes. •. > l*he proper time fo. sowing wheat and barley, is from May to Augfust, and is got in in December. That which was sowed produced twenty-five fold. Two bushels of barley, sowed in 1789, produced twenty-four bushels of a sound full grain. The Indian coi'n produced W3ll; it was» in the general opinion^ the best grain to cultivate in any quantity, on account •of ^ the little trouble attending its growth and miuiufac- turtng for eating. The Rio Janeiro sugar-cane grows verywdl, and is thriving. Vines and oranges are vary thriving ; of the former there will be a great quantity in a few yeai's. Potatoes thrive remarkably well, and' yield a very great increase. Two crops a vear of mat article may be got with great ease. iivery kind of garden vegetable thrives well, and comes to great perfection. In Febraary, 1791, great improvements were carry- ing oU AtPort Jackson; a considerable to^n was laid out at Rose Hill^ a very pleasant situation ; many good buildings were erected, and roads cut. Several acres of land were cleared for corn, and eighty acres for buildings and ^rdens. But the soil am>ut Rose Hill requires good tanners, and much manure, before plen- liM crops can be es^ected. From the sudden vicissi- tudes of" cold and beat, this country may be. supposed |o be; unhealthy; bat four years experience have proved otherwise. {tr. )n ^e beginning of May, the officers and men of the New South Wales coi'ps Went into the new hwe- nickat Ro9e Kill. Tliose natives who had been movt accustomed to live at the settlement, uld •leave it for several days together, as they found plenty of fish towards the head of the harbour.^ The build- ings at Rose Hill being carried on so far as to form a feguiur town between Rose Hill andthe landing-place in Ike creek, it was named by the go^^emor Paramatta, III the course 4»f this year a wb«ile fishery was first intr<)daccd on the ooa«t of New ^outb Walea,^ In the month APPENDIX. 561 montli of December, several improvemenits were made at Sydney Cove, and in particular a building was covered in at Paramatta, which was intended as a place of worship until a church could be built. By that time the settlement of Norfolk Island was consid^ably improved. The. wheat harvest was sue* cessfiil, yielding^ aboilt a thousand bushels of wheat, which were well got in, and thatched in stacks. The lieutenant governor had established some military re- gulations, and laid down rules for the observance of every person on the island; so that on the 15th of January 1792, things in general wore- a promising aspect in this settlement : 260 bushels of Indian corn were gathered in ; many acres were in different states of groww^h, and likely to yield plentiful harvests. The storehouses and granaries were in good repair; and every effort was made to extirpate the veimin with which they were infested. The vines flourished ex- ceedingly, and afforded the colonists the pleasing expectation of a speedy and ample supply of wines. At Norfolk Island a quantity of excellent lin; d stone was discovered; which forming a very good cement, obviated every inconvenience to \irhich they had been previously subjected in erecting their buildings. This account arrived in 1793. From dispatches received in 1795 it appears, that great improvements were making at the settlement called Paramatta, which is situated on an elevated spot, in the form of a crescent. A strong redoubt is constructed in that place, where there are barracks for a detachment of the military, which is always on duty there, as well to preserve good order and regu- larity among the convicts, as a check ivpon the natives, who, from the distance to Sydney CoTre, might be tempted to molest the settlers, were there.no armed force to protect them. Much order and decorum prevailed among the con- victs, who were in general more attentive to their business, and respectful to those who are appointed tO' superintend them^ than can be easily imagined. Some 12 4 B are >.!.■■ ; •. w APPENDIX. 662 are. emp1io^0(d Sn ina1j:ing pricks and tiles, others in building Warehouses, huts, ^c. j a great nnnaber in clearing the gk'ounds, bfing^ing in timber, and making roads. Otiiers at their mlTerent callings, such as ' smiths, ^ai'deners; cooks, shoe-makers, tailors, bakers, ' attendaUts on the sick, &c. llie hours of work are trptn sun-rise till Halfpast seven, "lyhen they br^^kfast; at half ]iast' ei'^bt 'tliey resume their Work till half •past ' eleven, 'when they ^ are ruiig to j^nner: at two . ' they recommence their labours ; and the .setting of the sun is the sighaltKat terininates their daily toil, and whtch is announced by the drum beatln^^ a retreat. In ord^r to Encourage ih^ cultivation oi gardens, Batui^day is appropriated to clear aMfay and cultivate ' sr ots for thelriiselves ; apd those who have been indus- trions, now'tindthe Beniefit by Raving plenty of vege- tables, which' saves their salt provisions, and enables, thetn to tru6k witli the natives for fish. Independent of ihis; advantaa'e» those who rear the greatest quanti- ties of Vegetables Stiid plants, receive premiums from ' the govfernbr, who, at the proper season of the year, distributes' se^ds amopg them for that purpose. The womeiiswie'ep round the huts every nioming, and re- turn ieabhtiian his respective linen, washed and mend- ed^ on the Sunday morning. I . No persop is eiciised frpm attending divine worship, Whidh is pefforped every Sunday ijuomin^ at eleven ' o'clock,' when ^Ithe convicts are obliged to attend in clean fin'^n. and behave in a more orderly and de- ' Tout ; manner' ilito Would be'naturally expected. In- •Ideed; th^ ^deratigiitjle zipal and wise measures pur- ^Wied'b^ tli^ g6vehtor,vin the formation of this infant i "^ ct](t<^^/y bfe^onf all p^^^ 'Those ctevicV*wn9se' ^^^^ ^i^pirfe'd, ^-Jive Wds granted tliemiii the following proportions : Tl^irty apre^ to '^Vejcy single man; fifty | *to the^marned''me^^^^ every child. •^thfe^ ifec^ive prbfisioiw and fc^^ the public! '^Jgtdres'for the tfr^t'eighie^i^' [months j the n^cessaryj '^;ib^l8 * andf iiiij^l^f iits of husbWdryy with seeds andj APPENDIX^ 663 graia to sow the ground tlie first year. TJ\yo sow pigs are also given to each, se^iler, and a, pair or tvyo of fowls. Oii these conditions twenty -seven, at the close of this year, had comnieiiced farming in the neighbourhood of Paramatta; and as there are many industrious people among the settlers, their stock '4oon begai> to thrive, and the face of the country to shew evident signs of cttlture. ' ^ ' '' """^^^ '" * ' From the latest accounts, dated December 21st, 17d5, arid received the beginning of January, 1797. it appears that the colony at ]^o|^t| Jackson is exterded forty miles up the country, and much increased in fopvlation^ as well as highly improved in ciiltiyatioa. t is stated in t^ese accounts, tiiat the flourishing conf>. dition of this settlement presented the niost marke4 contrast to the opinion which prevailed in England. In Norfolk Island, where the ground is much niore fertile than at Port Jackson or paramatta, the wheat frequently produces an increasie of twenty fold; and it i$ conjectured that future harvests will be more productive. When the last dispatches came away it was the summer season, and all descriptions of pei'soiis were engaged in collecting the harvest, which was most abundant. The crops of all kind of gmin "Were good, of wheat particularly so ; it was thought equal to two ye^rs consumption; and such i^ fact, as to pi)yiate in future, the distress the settleniei^i; had hitherto expe^ rienced from ihe delay or lieffie^t m forwarding sup-; plies fW)m I^bgland. The only scarcity they expe- rienced was pi animal food;} 'for, althouglj there is a cousiderable niimb^r of Cjittle in the colony ^ yet the proprietors, desirous of iucreasips^ their stock, rarely send them to market. ^. [■ The town of Sydney, the capital of the colony, with the exception of t(ie governor's house, and a few others belonging to the civil and military officers, is still composed of huts ; improvements ^re spoken of, but the principal concern is wisely directed to ngrin (culture. The other settleiiients are Hawkesbury l^ad Parai^atta. The latter, although the more recent 4B9 ests^blishment^ 564 APl>£NDIX. •stablishmenty is in every respect the most promising: it is pleasantly situated on the banks of a river at the head of the harbour called Broken Bay; and the soil is fertile. The productions of this country are but few : at least we have not been fortunate cnoug^h to make any recent discovery : the interior is, however, little known. As a striking^ instance of tho- want of enterprii^e, or activity, it may be necessary to mention a fact which lately occurred. Eight years since, a bull and six cows strayed from their keeper into the woods : a fear of venturing far amongst the natives, then somewliat Hostile, repressed all attempts to regain them ; indo- lence succeeded these fears, and no search was ever instituted. Some time since, an officer's servant, shooting in the woods, between twenty and thirty miles from Sydney, discovered them, and conducted the governor and a party of his friends to the spot, where they found a herd consisting of nearly sixty head of remarkably fine cattle : the bull attacked the party, who, with some difficulty, escaped unhurt. That a neighbourhood of thirty miles by land, pre- senting no unusual obstacles to an adventurer, should, in the almost starving state of the colony, have re- mained unexplored for so long a period, is not to be accounted for otherwise, -than by ^the, 'J^pathy or de- spondency of the settlep. But a&(tne,i^jE^tiyes# through' the persevering dihgencc' and arnip;*^ incxhaugtible patience of the governor and ;principiij 9Mceirs, are now more conciliated and familiarize,(J to puropeaus than they were at the first planting of tti^colonyj. they are much less annoyed by their incursionis and dp^rcr dations, and, of consequence, enjoy much more com- fort and tranquillity. In short, it appears from the testimony of several respectable pei*sons, who have transmitted accounts by toe latest dispatches, that tlie colonies are in a very nourishing state ; and that, not- withstanding the former opinions of many to the con- trary, they will eftectualfy answer every design of ^heir establisliment^ and prove the wisdom and prudepce APPENDIX. 565 prudence of goYernmept, from tlleir aj^iparent ad-' vantage to individuals in particular, aha the coih- niunity in general. ' " ' 'I • ) Di: ifY! GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. - It has been rc;marked, by an obserVer 6n thcf spot,' ^ of eminent discernment and penetration, that if the colony is intended only as a receptacle for Convicts'," ' this place stands uneqaalled, from the' situktion, eit-' tent, and nature of the country i but tllat, if tiaken;[ in a Commercial view, its importance' tHllWoi^pear! striking, ns the New Zealand fc'fetiip;. 6f Mrhlch sail- ' giiine expectatiohs Were'forni<*d| is tiot'a natiVb bfthei'; soil: and u 11 adjaceijt island, where- an assup*^cte*Was ' ehtertained of fihdii^^ it, is Withodrfit .; consequently,'' the scheme of being' abl^ to asslist the ]^t Indies with » naval stores, in case of a War, mnst^De'rcfndered*al^or-'< tive, bbth from the dcfici^cy at^d 'quality. *bf ihe.[ timber growing in this dountrjr. '. It •$« iilso gfmeh -a^ an opinion, formed on due observation, that, through sufficient numbers, and industry in cultivation, the country would, in the course of a few years, produce grain enough for the support of its new possessors; but to effect this, the present limits must be greatly extended. 'ro men of small propei;ty^ rmitracted desires, and a disposition for retireiiiferit,* the continent of New South Wales may have its inducements. One of this description, with letters of recommendation, and a sufficient capital to furnish an assortment of tools for agricultural and domestic purposes, possessed also of a few household utensils, a cow, a few sheep, and breeding sows, with proper protection and encourage- ment, mi<' ht obtain a comfortable subsistence, and a moderate independence in a course of time. But they who are induced to emigrate thither, are recom- mended, before they quit England, to provide all their wearing apparel for themselves^ family, and servants; their furniture, tools of every kind, andimplements of husbandry, ■ i 6)Mi - APWt^iJ?, eluded* w ms being ii«(B4),ai4i , advantage. If the sheep and hogs be English, it will be the better. With, respect to wines, spirilv.Mm^^* sugar, coffee, tea, rice, and many other ar^cles, thev may venture t^ rely on T^i^ri& or M^dct^iuthepiTi^lB, and.Cyape. of Good Hop«. ^. will not be their intfure^. to drPMV hillii ou their Toya^ ouji;, as the ei^chi^nge o{ monev, wilLbeioiindinvaruil^ly aflninst them, and, a large difCounMs ^:;3bv,T ■'>'•(_ '^*"-'' ■■ ■ ' ■ { • ' • ■■' f^x^ l.£u ■ • -t 1:'l}ill . ■ ■■ • • .■ '• 1 , » h; . :.o : " , : ' ; '-: -' < ? r:1 i^^'i -^ .. r'i^' ^ *^' '■ ," I.'-.- < ./•>/! ■}!>• 'ii-i'i^Viv- .,;P*ff j ^^'■,r t'i'itfi' .jg^Mc^r ^4flm, fhfiufi^/^^0fffij^ Directions lo the Binder, Portrait of Captain Cook to hx» Title Page. View of Christinas Harbour, in Kergalen's Land 272 A Man and Woman of Van Dieman's Land S26 The Death of Captain Cook 46i A Ma^ and Woman of Sandwich Islands .•«• 480 The Manner of Trafelling,&c .r. 497