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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too lerge to be entirely included in one exposure ere filmed beginning in the upper left hend corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illuatrata the method: Les cartas, planches, tableaux etc.. pauvent itre fiimis A das taux de riduction diffirants. Lorsque ie document est trop grand pour itra reproduit en un soul clichi. il est lUmt i partir da Tangle supArieur geuche, de gauche k droits. at de haut en bes. en prenant le nombro d'imogea nteessaire. Les diagrammes suivsnts illustrent la m^thoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 »«C«OC0fY IBOIUTION TBT CHART lANSI and ISO T6ST CHART No 2) _^ r JPPLIED IIVMGE I ^^g 1653 Eosi Men si,„t r^S ("6) «B2 - OJOO - PHor,, ^^ ("6) 28a - 5989 - fo. I PARTS L * M, ANNUAt. RIFOIIT, VOL. XI. GEOLOGICAL SXJBVET OF CANADA O. M. DAWSON. O.M.O., LL.D., F.R.S., Dimotob REPORTS ON EXPLORATIONS H COASTS OF BlIDSON STRAIT AND CNGATA BAY n A. P. LOW, B.ASC., AND ROBERT BELL, M.D., LL.D., F.R.S. OTTAWA PRINTED BY S. E. DAWSON, PRINTER TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY 1901 Prie*, TwerUjf cenU. fi «iKI>Ll>il<'AI. Hi kvkv i»»- ('amaha. Vol.. XI., I'AMT I« I'lATK I. IMIAK OK WOMKNS IMiAT, \V\KKIIAM lUV. ■:^-J A. I'. I. OK ITNGAA A BAY BV A. P. LOW. IJ.Ap.Sc. OTTAWA I'RINTED BY S. E. DAWSON, PRINTER TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY 1899 No. 680. ^Ooc 6> -0 a. .M. Uawsox, C.M.d., LLO., F.H.S., Director Oeoliigical Survey of Cunada. 8111,— I herewith iieff to Rubinit my r ,• rt on the exploration in tlio HUininer of 18l»7, of 11 j)ort of the Houtii shore of Hudiion Strait And of tlin weHt and M)uth shoreH of ITn^^nvit Bay. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, A. v. LOW. Ottawa, June 16th, 1898. H Noi K. — The bearin/K in this report are all re/erred to the trit- nin-ldiini, and tif eferalioiis lO mean aea-hvel. HEPOltT EXPLORATION OF PART OF THF SOl'TH SKOIll-: (JF HUDSON STRAIT AND <)F UNGAVA i$AY. iNTKODUCTOItV. This report is b:is«Ml on the observations made during July and Au-^ust, 1897, on the jjeology and physical geogrupliy of the northern portion of the Labrador Peninsula bordering on llud^im Strait and of Ungava liay. The area examined extended from Douglas llar- lx)ur, situated some 150 miles to the eastward of Cape Wolsten- A bol.ne at the entrance of Hudson I'ay, to George River in the south- ''' east p:i;t of Ungava Ray, a distance by the, coast of "oO miles. The work was cliietly confined to the co;ist, and exce{)t i>y a few trips extending a short distance inland, the interior was explored only along the lower portions of the larger rivers. Payne River was ascended thirty-five miles, Koksoak River thirty miles, Wlial? River ten miles and George River twenty-live miles. Mr. ns in Uiidwii •Strait. Yachts used in expluni- tioii»^ge from the Strait of Uelle Isle, where the first heavy ice was encountered. On ijiiJii^'J', '" the way northward along the Atlantic coast, more or less delay was strait. occasioned by the heavy pack drifting southward, and the eastern entrance of Hudson Strait was not reached until the 22nd of June. Further delays by ice, especially in the neighbouihood of Big Island, near the middle of the strait, prevented the Diana from passing into the open water of Hudson Bay until the 12th of July. Returning immediately, an attempt was made to land Dr. Bell's party in the vicinity of King C ipe on the eastern side of the mouth of Fox Channel, but owing to the great quantity of heavy ice about Salisbury and Not. tingham islands and to the northward, it was found impossible to do so, and the ship was headed east, to land my party at the first convenient place on the southern shore. Commander Wakeliam, in his report of the voyage of the Diana*, enters fully into the conditions and nature of the ice of Hudson Strait. My own observations and conclusions in regard to the ice coincide with those so ably set forth by him, and, consequently, it is unnecessary to allude further to them here. PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE SOUTH COAST OF HUDSON STRAIT. Early on the morning of the 16th of July, the Diana reached the western entrance of King George Sound, and steaiiicd slowly in between •'^"'"I'l several islands and the mainland. The largest island is about six miles long by about three wide and had been poetically named the Maiden's Paps by some ancient navigator, from the outline of two rounded hills upon it ; the other islands are much smaller, but all are high and rocky, the highest points on the large island being estimated at 700 feet above the se.a. The mainland is also high, rocky and destitute of tven. It is broken by bold points into small irregular bays, with deep water close in shore, the only danger being due to the lumpy nature of the bottom, which in places rises into small islands, and in others to shoals indicated only by gi'ounded ice. We anchored in a small cove on the west side of the mouth of a deep inlet, about five miles south of tlie western end of the Maiden's Paps, and a boat w. s sent to sound the channel into the inlet where a safer anchorage was sought, as the cove where the ship lay was open to the northward and full of ice drifting backward and forward with the tides. During the absence of the boat, preparations KiiiK (iTOrgf ' RpiH)rt (if the K\i« clitiMii tu HiuNuii Strait, . Ic.. Miirinc .iikI Fixlit-rii'^ D.'part- imnt, 1897, pp, til.rp!!. i 8 t SOUTH SHORE OF HCD80X STRAIT. Good ship anchoruf^e. Douirliu Harbour. i)i'an« sails. were made for launching our yacht, and. owing to the absence of yards on the mainmast, considerably difficulty was experienced ; but after two hours' work a successful launch was made and as the yacht took the water we named her the AUe after the hardy little auk. The boat returned in the afternoon and reported a safe anchorage about five miles farther up the inlet, with the shallowest .soundings of five fathoms at low-water on a bar at the entrance, and elsewhere from ten to fifteen fathoms. The ship then shifted to the inner harbour, towing the yacht with her, and a good holding ground of mud and Iwulders was found within a quarter of ii mile of the shore on the west side of the bay. Four small rocky islands at the mouth of the inlet practically make the harbour land-lockeil. The Ijcst entrance is between the first and second islands from the west shore, and there is probably a sufficient depth of water for large ships between the other islands, but a narrow bar of large boulders, covered at high-water, extends from the western island to the mainland. The inlet was named Douglas Harbour by Commander Wakeham, and it was sub- sequently found to be seventeen miles long, being divided into two narrow arms nine miles above the entrance. The main body varies from half a mile to a mile across. High hills rise abruptly from the water almost everywhere, with an altitude of about 700 feet near the entrance, increasing to 1500 feet towards the head of the arms. The next day was employed in ugging the yacht and in stowing the pro- visions and outfit. Much annoyance was caused by large cakes of heavy ice drifting about on the tide, which required constant watch to keep them from fouling the yacht tied to the side of the Diana. In the evening Commander Wakeham handed me a letter containing instructions to be at Fort Chimo on September l.'Jth. when the Diana would call there for our party and take us to St. John's, ^lew- foundland. On Sunday July 18th, everything being properly stowed and the ^//e completely rigated, we left the ship after breakfast and sail jd with a strongly westerly breeze up the south-west arm. The Diana short- ly after hoisted anchor and stood out of the harbour on her way to Big Island, where Dr. Bell's party was to be landed. We anchored at the head of the arm early in the afternoon and took a series of observation on the sun with the sextant and chronometer for latitude azimuth and time ; later, the press was filled with arctic flowering plants which formed a brilliant carpet over the sandy and gravelly terraces in a continuation of the valley of the arm. A small river empties into the head of the arm, and at high-water its mouth was filled with trout from <UMiI<'.AI. Si KVKY OK f",\XAli.\. Vol.. XL, I'aHT I., I'l.ATK 11. ^^^' ^^^^^^l^^PBBIB^^^^^BB^BBPilWffBi^^^^^^^^^^^^ <» ^^^^^^i -:^d. K -'K . WEST ARM, IMUGLAS HARBOIR, HlDSClX STRAIT. A. 1'. i,<>». I'hiitu. 1S1I7. RAVINK l>N HROOK AT UKAD l)K WKST ARM IJOUdLAS HARHOl K. tHk] PHYSICAL FEATURES. 9 L one to five poumls in weight. Wt- hiid unfortunately omittefl lo hring Autic Tn>ut. a net, iind ns the fish were feeding on .swarms of siind-shriinps they would not take other l«it freely, so we eau^'ht only a few small ones. They proved to lie the arctic trout or Henrne's siilmon. <|uite «listinct from the ordinmy sea-trout of more southern waters. They arc abun- dant in the tidal wiiters of all the rivers tlowini; into Hudson Strait and I'nijavalJiiy. Li the Koksoak Itiver they have lieeii tcken i.,. to fourteen jioundt in weight, hut nrdinnriiy weiyh from three to eight pounds. The bottom, in the .shallow water .at the head of the arm, w.is covered with nuniemus dead oralis of all sizes up to .six inches diameter, which had been killed by the weight of heavy cakes of ice grounded there at high-water and loft by the retreating tide. I"]aily the next morning an exploration of the eoimtry about the c.iimn :..l«,iit head of the arm was made. Fora mile, our wav h-d over a level terrace ''""•-'l'- ot sand and gravel, one htmdred teet above sea level, to wh^re the river divided into two equal branches. The valley of the stre.im from the si'ii to the forks varies from lifty to one hundred yards in width, and is cut into the terrace ; its jirade is steep and the .stream in ednseqnenre is a continuous rapid over a winriiiig, bouldery b'^d. The bank of the west branch was followeii about half a mile, rising over terraces of thirty- seven .-ind ten feet : crossing the stream further ascents of forty-tive and one hundred and twenty feet brought us to the top of a well marked gravel terrace ."51.3 fe. t alnivo the s<'a, while liehind it and Hanking the steep rocky hills, weie two other terraces at jT.'i fed .-ind oOt'i tVet respec lively, alK)ve sea-level. These are not so ch arly detlned as the lower ones and are formed of coarser material with scattered boulders, but their tops appear to have been levelled liy water, ami they jirobably mark the extreme uplift of t lie land since the later-gracial sub-idence. The stream has cleared the ilrift from its channel and rushes down a narrow rocky guluh in a beautiful cascade of 500 fei't. AUive this fall and below the next, there is a fine deep pool ii! which a ..umber of large trout were seen, but liaving no means of catching them we coul.l not tell the 1',. „,k Trout species, alt'iough tliey resembled the ordinary brook trout. From the pool, a steepdimbof.SoO feet over well glaciated, gr.initic rock.s, led to a more gradual slo]i(! of the upper part, of th.. hill, which was covered witli innumerable boulders and blocks to its summit, 1,860 feet above the sea. The view from the summit is very desolate. IJarren, rockvor boulder-covered hills on all side.s, run in low rounded ridges separated from one another by small deep valleys filled with snow ; the surface, wherever there is sutlicieut soil, was covered with lichens diversified with a few arctic flowers, but not in the beautiful abundance met with in the valleys. No trees and very little soil hide the bare rocks, scarred 10 I. 801'TII SKOKE OP HUIWOJJ BTIIAIT. Bird- Floating ic. lei- ill Stniit. everywhere with liuge hl.Kiki and Ijoulders. A few binlH, inoHtly snow bunMnKs and T upland longHpurs wore gcen on the summit, evidently with young. Hjiviiig examinetl the imks and taken a numln-r of photo^miph^* w,. returne ' to the yacht in time f..ra n.Hin ol.servatinn of the sun, and later on irle observations for time to determine the rate of thechronoraeler. lowunN evening it rained heavily and the wr atlier remaine.1 dirty all ni«ht. The followin- mornin!? we left the head of the arm and on the way down examined the nieks at nveral plates on both sided. We then sailed to /ilhin a mile of the head of the south-east arm, where the water was only two fathoms deep at higJi tide. The valley of this arm continues some miles beycmd the sea, and is occupied by a laij;e stream which has bnni-lit down the sand that forms the wide shoals at its moutii. An observation for latitude was taken at the ed^eof the shoal water, after which the whole afternoing proUibly about L'.UOO feet above the sea. It blew a gale during the night, and the wind continued .so strong next day that, we were unable to leave the iviichorage, so Young and I climbed the prominent hill at the entrance to the arm. Its summit, by the aneroid, has an elevation of 1,000 fe-t, and consists of an immense dyke of isty ampliibolite. W\- experienced consideiable difficulty in wiilkin- ,.!,'ainsc the wind and several tinirs hud to take shelter behind large boulders during the more violent gusts. During the gale, a pecuHir dark cloud remained stationary over the bay. A grand view of the entrance to Douglas llarlxiur was obtained from the summit, andaNoof the i>Iands of Kiiig(icorge .Sound, while on the horizon liig Island wa.« distinctly .seen. Stringers of ic:> were observed in the sound, but beyond it clear water e.vtended for fifteen miles, followed by loose pack to the horizi.n. On the way up and down the' hiil several new species of plants and three species of bultertlies were added to the collection. Dird life is by no means abundant on the land the only .species noted being the snow hunting, Lai.land lonifspur, shore htrk, a sparrow, raven and rock ptarmigan, the laststdl in about half-winter plumage. On July -'L'nd, the wind moderated slightly towards morning, and we sailed for tiie mouth of the harbour under reefed Jib oniyi and lacing along with numerous small water-spouts soon reached the -1 PHVHICAL FEATURKS. n L I able iwlands at the entrance, where a landing was niiule. Outside the harbour the wind was stendicr imd liKhter, (,'riulujiliy dying out and leaving us becalaiptl .it noon near the western end of Prince of ^^'ale.s Island. The distance between the mouths of Douglas Harbour and Fisher IJay is < ..a.i I-ih.-h twenty-five miles, anil the general trend is east southeast. The coast u,,'!!";',',','/'"' lietween the bays is l)old, and indented only by small coves, none of I i-li-r !'■«>. which afford harbours. The rocky ^hores rise abruptly, from lOO feet to eing about four miles from the mainbmd. A smaller, high, rocky island lies immediately off the south west jM)int, and further eastward three rocky islands partly obstruct the ciianni I between the large island and the mainland. Fisher Bay is ninn miles long and three miles wide at its mouth, I'i-li. r ll.iy. biing divided into two arms about li df-way up. The bay opens to the north-east, and its western side is cpiite shallow, extensive boulder- covered Hats being exposed at low-water on that side ; but there is a good channel along the east s-iJe, which le.uls to a protected harbour behind two high islitnds near the head of the eastern aim, where we iirrivi d at mi(iniglit. Prince of Wales Island is a favourite breeding ground for sea-pigeons, C'-jiji/inn iiuiiidlii, thousands of which were about the yacht while we were becalmed off the island. The °arly part of the ne.xt morning was spent visiting the mainland and islands at the head of the bay. A small stream falls in from the eastward near the head of the bay, being the disiharge of a beautifully clear lake lying between high liilis, wliieh the Kskimos report is well- stocked with trout. We ran .several lines of soundings through the harbour and the approach to it, .'ind found from live to eight fathnnis at low-\.ater. Towards noon we ^lilcd to the east point, where five families of i;,kii,„, Eskimos were encamped, engaged in harpooning white porpoises and "" i" l'»" "t- seals for their winter's supply of "il. The eneampiiient consisted of five seal-skin tents situated on the side of a rocky hill, covered in places with coarse shingle ; the tents were erected among the bnulder.s, and 12 L ■Ot'TH RIIORK or ItUMtOX MTHAII. «"'i.a-t 1» t». Wak.huii, j Wak.lia:,, Hav. the only protpctioii from tlin unnven rocky fli»or was a pile of Imiry dp«>r«ikitw forming tlm IriI in the Uik part of th« ti-nl. BluliUr and meat wore wlrewii alxmt the tents imlinorimimitcly, insiih- and out, and the Huioll of rancid oil and flfsh wax aliniMt ovi-rpowcring. The natives were ail clothwl in garnifntti of .l.m had apjiarcntly l«c-n worn a coiiM.l..r,ibl« tin.p, they were far fioiii clean. No articled of Karoix-an inanuf icture were noticetl, beyond guns, ritle.«, winie iron in the »i>ear« and a few knives. Few 1, .500 feet. Wakehain Hay is twenty miles long. At its luoutl it is nearly two miles and a half wide, gradually narrowing to a little over a nule almut three miles alxjve the entrance. The water of the approach is deep, and the only obstructions to free navigation are two small islands, nearly covered at high-tide, one of which lies about two miles north- piiYitrAL rRAruRRM. 1.1 L •••xt of th« wexfern head ami thn cither about tliri-o milps due north of the eaat'^n iiiilo of I'le entrnnci' There in pl»«>m >M>twe«-n thrill, and thuy should not tie diinKeroun in iipprout-hin;; thix, the luifeit and best hiirliour on the south coast of Hudson Mtriiit, Tim etiHUirii sidp of tlie entrance U ftiriiied by n, rocky [xtninsula 6(X) ftftt high, joined to the uiainhind by n neck of Niiiid and chiy Ions than lifty feet hi;{ii, with II small lake in tlie middle. Beyoi.d the nariowH the Uty overuses three miles in width for ton miles ; the leniainder of tin- upper end lieinjf less than a mile wide. A tine protected ship harlxiur. out lit' tlie run of the tide and con.ii'ijueiitly triH^ fior" the danger of i|uiukly moving ice, wiw found just inside the penii.. ..>a, with g<¥»d Kxr.lli.nt anchorH;;e in from fifteen to twcnty-tive fathoms (>p|Hi~.ite the low " "'' ""^ """' H.indy neck. Ci course when the Iwiy is full of ice, a chip would lie ln-- set hero, but there is no current in the cove and conKe<{U«ntly the ice- pressure would bo due only to wind. The hi;;hlands on the west Mdo continue Hb<»ut ten miles up tlie bay to the wide viillny of a small stream, beyond which the im- mediate hills vary from 200 feet to TiOO feet until near the head of the inlet, when they reach heights of 1.1'OOor l.'iOO feet. On the ea-st side, the general c'titudo of the hills ranges from HQO feet to 1,000 feel, and there are numerous wide, drift-filled valleys below the 300 foot level. On Jul}' 2 tth, the yacht remained at anchor all flay, and we busieil ll.nd .if ourselves examining the country iind rocks alniut the head of the bay. |^!*' '""" The main valley continues a long distance inland, and is occupied by a small unnavigable river. Other wide valleys panilli'l to that of the inlet make the coui'ry more broken, but lower than that described aliout the head of Douglas Harbour. The hills are from 1,000 feet to 1,500 feet high, and lioing fmnied from diabase and schists are more abiupt in outlinu th'in tliox' of the grani'e region to the westwanl In the afternoon we examined the lower stretches of the river with the small boat, and later dre(lgev K-»kiiiio •tiiml nmny hard knoeki op pinchen, «nij mivenil tiiiiHi wn IimI to force pUHituM hetwr«n largi- pan*. From the Rumniit of the iwniniiuU the i-oMt WM found t.1 »». tij{htly ptcitmi with icf, whiln a itntxtant hi>i»vy >.lr«im of it WM pniMiriK through the namiws into tho Uy An the cove in which theyncht wiw anihoreil Htill r>-niiiiiinl fr«) frr.in Ue we determinMl to reiimin there, Lntt>r in thf pvcnitnj n f.iinily of K»kimo)t wiu found pncsm|ml on » point outside the i)»v. On July 26th, the wind cmtinuwl from the ncrth-eiuit, cBuninx t''o Htrenni of ice to lupidly till the l>ny with mcli (lood tide, while little if ony went out with the elili;n <'ircHiii«tano. prolMil.ly due tr» tliel.irKe iKxJy of ice oiitHido preventing the rapidly llowii.x tide fioni c.irrying out the ice l.niu«ht in on the preceding llmUii. In the inornihj{ we •ounded the bott«iin of the optm c«>ve, wlier*' we were hemnied in, with t*.e re»ult pn^viounly stated : iind then dretl^e*!. ohlainiuK several Hpecien of Mhell«, cnilw, Bea-urehin, nhrinips si^njje, nick c.id and a Mculpin. An the ice was encroaching on the yacht we twitched her near liigh-wiUer mark on a bed of gravel out of reacti of the hea\y cakes of ice whiih took the grounci in much deeper water outside. In the afternoon wo climlwd the hills on the east side of the Ixiy nnd obUined the barr>inetric elevations of the terraces on the pt'ninsula. We gave the EHkiiuo a ritle and sent him for caribou whioh he says are plentiful not far away. The following day the conditions remained the dame, the ice pouring into the Lay with the north-east wind. On the 28th the l«y was full of ice, and fearing that a change of wind might block us in the cove for d lys we tix.k the yacht in tow of the small lioat and succeetJed in moving her along .shore aljout a mile, to the point at the narrows, where we were caught in the ice moving in contrary directions with the current and eddies and only with •' good luck esraped serious dama-e. Being unable to pass "the point we retuniod to our former anchorage, where wo remained until the evening of the next day, when we again tried to t.,vv out of the bay and succeeded in passing the point on the slack water at high-tide, and then took the yacht into a small cove on the outer side of the neck where we were icebound until August 1st. During our enforced delay, the time was employed examining the surrounding country and rocks and in painting and cleaning the yacht. On the last day we were visited l)y a large party of Eskimas in three umiaks and seven kyuk.s. They were on their way from Si upart I5ay to some place on the coast to the westward where they go inland to hunt carilxju for their winters supply o> olotl ig. I took several photographs of the boats and people and made to :ill the customary present of a small piece of tobacco. J i mivnuai, rBATi'iirn. IS I W.' Ktrtrtwl nn Mkm an tlip y«.!lil .UmUh] on AuKU»t Ut nnii to aIIow the yiuht to poiH with little (Ihdkit. The diHiiiice from Wakfhirn IJiiy toC'HjK- !'rini..of \\ «1,.m {, twenty- W.ik.i,,,,., four u.ileN mill tlie , ours.- Im nei»rly eimt. .v li,rgi- i>.iitri>l, which we 'l;',*,,'!',*, "'"' railed Doctor Mnml, lien nli.Hit three i,ii||., „(( i[„, coast, with ItH \*'''"'. western en.Ktor Miind in alioiit live inile« |on« und n|i|« nrn to !«• iriannuinr in KliajM' ; it in much lower than the lurue i<<|iimlM to the we.stwanl. ati'l fr«,rii outiiilc ini«lit l)e taken for n fKirtioi. of twe iiiainlnnd. The coast i^ more imlento.1 than to the wistwanl, t.ut ail the Imyn ure wide and aflVml no shelter from northerly winds. The hills, for ten miles Ijeyoiid Wakeluun Jtiiy, rise alHiiit SUO fert directly from the sea : thiy't'ien l>econie lower and h-ss al.rupt, and are hroken liy wide valleys, in which the drift is torraceti to aljout IIOO feit als.ve the present sea- level. A« Cap* Prince of Wales is appr.«iched the hills gradually die out aixl aliout the cape do not exceeh.iais, some of which are bare at low water and others uitti. ,d l»y heavy ice grounded ui)on llioui. From Cape Prince of Wales, the course was south for tive miles, to the entrance of Stupart 15ay, where one of the government observation •stations was situoted in IHS.VKC,. Wo found the dwelling-house still ui,i .,h.,r^a- sUniling.ind in good repair, the other building* having lieen bn.ken I'|;';j;'"*i"","' up by the Kskimos. The house was closed with large l.l.Kks of cement '"'"'" *"'" Trom the pillars for the magnetic instruments. The inside of the house is used by the natives as a store-hou.se for oil and the tloor was covered with sealskins full of oil. the stench of which was overpow.'ring. 0;ie room had been left locked by .Mr. Payne, the observer, luid the natives hatrong breeze, and sailed across Joy IJay to the south Joy Biiy. of Stupart Bay and up its south shore into very shallow water, with eigliL feet about a mile from the shore at high-tide. The head of the bay is blocked with sand brought down by the small river emptying into it. We were unable to enter tlie river on account of the santly flats at its mouth, but it appeared lurg(!r than any stream yet pa-ssed, and the deep valley in which it (lowed Wiis flanked by sand terraces up to 200 feet This is probably the liver in which the Kskimos are reported to have caught salmon and trout for the observation station. From the bottom of Joy Hay we beat out to near the end of the point separating it from Whitley Bay, and came to anchor in a good boat-liarbour behind an island, being unable to proceed furtiier on account of thick fog, rain and loose ice. Joy Bay is nine miles wide and about the same in depth. Its shores are generally low, and greatly broken by rocky points, forming shallow irregular coves ; a number of rocky islands are dotted over its surface. The water is nowhere deep and the bottom is irregular, .so that it would be dangerous to enter with a vessel. The country ia rear is broken, and the hills vary in altitude from 300 feet to 700 feet, but they rise more gradually than those along the coast to the westward, and appear to run in ridges parallel to the strike of the rocks, or n^^-th-west and south east, with abrupt cliffs towards the south-west. The rain and fog continued until 3 p.m. the next day, when a light southerly breeze enabled us to j'et into Whitley Bay, where we grounded for two hours, and finally made a harbour at dark in the upper end of the bay some eight miles from the point, and just outside a narrows between high rocky cliffs where the tide rushed tlirough at a rate of Whitl. y liay. .seven or eight knots an hour. Whitley Bay is even more shallow than the last, and like it completely dry at low-tide, when the bottom shows as mud-flats covered with many great boulders. Eider ducks in thousands feed on these shoals. The following morning we landed Young on the west side of the narrows to sketch the adjacent coast from the summit of the hill, which he found to be 700 feet high. Wc then sailed through the narrows on the rising tide which caused a heavy riipid with a fall of three feet in fifty. Beyond t he narrows, the bay widens to about a mile across and continues with this width for two niilo.s, to .cs head, where a .small river flows in through a deep narrow valley. On our way out we had considerable difficulty in steniniing the rapid with a strong fair wind, and only ■Jt -] PHYSICAL FKATUBES. 17 I. succeeded in doing so by crossing from side to side and so taking advant- age of small eddies. Picking up Young at the point, we sailed into the next small bay, which is navigable only at high-tide ; and remained there examining the rooks until after the noon observation for latitude. We then ran eastward along the coa.st behind a large island and past several small bays open to the north and noi-th-east, and anchored in a deep narrow inlet about three miles long, with a small river flowing in at its head, thirty luiles from Whitley Bay. This is an excellent I.i>.->t icf ^i*ii boat-harbour, but very deep, there being seven fathoms of water within a hundred feet of the shore. We saw only a few strings of locjse ice about ten miles off shore. After passing the large island, five miles long, at the mouth of Whitley Bay, the coast again l>ecomes bold, with deep water close in shore and with only a few small islands under the land. The hills rise abruptly from 400 feet to 1,000 feet above the sea, and there are only small areas of terraced drift at the heads of the bays and c-oves and in the valleys b :ween the hills ; elsewhere only bare rock is seen, Un August .Jth, we made only eleven miles on account of calms ^<>iVl^t €a.>t nf and very light winds. The coast passed was more rugged, with the '^ '"'••'>" "*y- hills rising directly from the water to heights varying from 700 to 1,000 feet. No good harbours were seen, but the coa.st is indented with small coves, all open to the sea, and without islands or points with shelter behind them. There are drift terraces in all the bays, and we measured a series of eight on the flank of 'onspicuous headland called Dyke Head. No ice was seen duii' ^{ny^ but there was an ice-blink to the north-east and a patch 18 80DTH SHORE OP HUDSON STRAIT. Errors uf tlie Chart. Cai Cape Hoptg Ivance ^kvTf t:'"'*y^*' •"•'«• '-"S- The western shore is high and rocky, but about the head of the bay and along the east Je, the country. s„,„ch lower, the highest hills not having an elevation of a^ut eight m-les w.de and extending eleven miles up the bay ; «.K,d shelter or sh.ps could 1^ found an,ong several other large idLds that he betw^n the big island and the west shore. The head and thp™"'.'^'"*'"" "*'?"'"*'' '' ""' accurately mapped on the chart, there be.ng two large islands marked at the entrance to Ungava Bay and no bay like the one here described. As the coast on the chart was laid down from observations made on ships sailing through the strait, it u very likely that the large island in the bay is the inside sland shown on the chart, and that the point forming the east side of the bay ,s represented by the outer island, the land at the head of the bay being below the horizon of a ship passing through the strait. We anchored for the night in a small cove on the ea.,t side near the entrance to the bay. The next morning we sailed four miles, with a light wind from the north-east, to Cape Hopes Advance or Prince Henry Foreland, round- ing which we proceeded south-east through a labyrinth of small rock v islands with shallow wat«r between them, until we were stopped by thick fog at 3.30 p m., when we had to feel our way to a harbour being guided by the lead and by the noise of the breakers. Cape Hopes Advance ,s about 300 feet high and rises boldly from the water, but beyond It the coast is much lower and the irregular hills rarely exceed 200 feet in altitude. The islands were called the Eider Islands on account of the great numbers of these ducks found nesting upon them. Thick fog covered the sea all next day, with light winds from souths east to north-west and consequently we were unable to sail The W appears to hang nearly constantly about Caj e Hopes Advance, a circum stance caused perhaps by warmer currents of water and air from Ungava Bay meeting the colder currents of the strait. There was little fog inland, so we landed and took a series of observations for latitude and azimuth, and later, dredged between the islands, adding to our collec- tion three new small fishes, a sponge, an anemone, a shrimp, some corals, and a few shells Great quantities of kelp on the bottom serious^ interfered with the dredging by blocking up the mouth of the dredge <■] PHkglGAL FEATUBBS. 19 L On August 12th, we started early and sailed 8(Wlh-80uthea8t Sliallowwnt. r. eleven miles, Ijetween low rocky islands that form a fringe about four miles wide along the coast. The water between the islands is very shallow, so that at low-tide many of them are joined together and to the mainland. Shallow water with shoals ap- pears to extend outside the islands for several miles, rendering an approach with large vessels dangerous. The course was then changed to south-west, and we continued in that direction for twenty- eight miles, and were then forced to ground tlu' yacht at high tide in a small rocky cove at the head of a wide shallow Uiy, in order to escape the dirty weather brewing with a north-east wind and a very low barometer. The islands gradually die out along this course after about ten miles, but the shallow \vater continues and the bottom being uneven is very dangerous on account of the great blocks and boulders scattered over it. The coast is low and broken only by detached, irregular hills never over 200 feet high. The country is covered with drift to a considerable extent and the flats are dotted with many small ponds, the breeding place of ducks and wading birds. There are no large streams, the ponds being drained by a network of brooks. During the night, the wind increased to a gale which continued until Storm}- the following evening, when it shifted to north-west and the weather cleared. The yacht remained on the beach and wo pas.sed the day mak- ing excursions over the peaty plains, passing over a hill 200 feet high, faced on both sides with boulders forming a ridge running nearly west inland to another hill about three miles away. The appearance of the bay at low-tide was startling. The bottom was entirely exposed for about th-ee miles outside high-water mark and was formed of low rocky ridges with mud flats between them, while everywhere boulders of all sizes were strewn about. The next morning, at high-tide, we towed the yacht out of the bay, (jrnat rise and but made no headway until afternoon, when we sailed southward about **" "' '"'' • five miles with a very light south-east wind, and then searched for upwards of an hour for a sufficient depth of water to anchor in. We finally found a hole between a number of small drift-covered islands with forty feet of water at high-tide. At half-tide the current between the islands was so strong that the yacht surged to and fro with the helm lashed hard over and we were in danger oi breaking adrift, or dashing against the hummocks of boulders which formed the sides of the hole. Fortunately, as the tide became low, the shallows about became dry and the current slackened, so that when the yacht grounded for upwards of an hour it was in quiet water. This is an example of 2J J 20 L SOUTH 8U0RE OF HCOSOJf STRAIT. I'aync Kiier. the great me and fell of the tide in Ungava Bay, and of the da„«.r m nav.g.t.ng iu .ha„ow water, where ...! tic,, fal^, Tn i„1, 'itT ^iir ? '•°"r"*"'=-' *' " ^^ «-"nd. in falling ti.'o it i^i^! f^ LM-r^r ""^ "'^'"' ''""'"'• '^*"' •""«* '« the vicinity is low 2er!l f' *'-» P'--i"usly de.scri..d, and the shallow water Llndl everal m. en out fron, shore. We saw the loom of a lar^e island so"! ^enty n..,es to the eastward which we subsec„e„tly loa;::^ Z ^^^^^ 71 J '"^ *^""'y •"•■'"" '*' **>« ""'•♦h °* its position on the ;t::;::srei?r — '•'■— i .„„ jj;: On August 15th we continue.! «,uthward for twenty miles passing among low .slands formed of roclc and drift, .separated fr'm ^2 C 1 er and from thejow shores by shallow water, and arrived at a rockrhel^' land called Tuvalik, on the north side of Payne Bay. Aband o Eskimos ,n four tents, was found at Tuvalik. and from Lse peol wf learn«l that a large river flowed into the bay. We sailed ^70 up the bay. passing with shallow water over muddy flats, and anclu. ej n a deeper channel, off the point at the entrance to a bay stretc n to the northward, where it was thought the river might flow , T e coast pa.s.sed during the day was very similar to that :iready do erii" ^ng generally low and flat, broken only by occasional' ridgos of t^nd a Id r""""''""''''"*'''"''- '^'>'^^«''-« - '-^t-anfl-west trend, and thus come out to the .shore in rocky points. The hills have ^'ZSod ''I'^T'l- "" "' ''' ^o^-'^ «i-r, and a,; ":': d strike o tit rTu' \'",'^r'""' "' *'" "''""^^ '^°"^'"-""'>.^ -'»> the o he h . I ' ". \'''P """''*'"''^ "' '"" *"^''- -'1 correspond to the dkslopes ,n that .lirection, while towards the south the hills generally have abrupt cliffs. The next morning we sailed to the hea.l of the northern bav but h r,^:' only a sn.all stream discharging a lake some t-n mile^ o^^ that la> ,„ a wule valley to the northward. Some time was spent examining ,he rocks on the .nainland and islands, .hid, we^ find o contain h.rge ,uantities of iron ore. In the afternoon we v^d out o the bay (nearly .by at low tide), and anchored for three the .ne . In the evening the river was ascended about six miles on a very strong current, and the yacht was brought to anchor un.ie, t" J 4 o > ^] PHVaiCAL riATl'RB*. 21 L north shore in tbirt««n fathom* of water. After dark we were joined by a number of EHkimoit in an uraiak and leven kyaki, who pitched three tents on the shore opposite the yacht. The following morning we visited the encampment and arranged luyru- Kitvr. with two men to pilot us up the river. We started on the rising tide under treble reefs and raced up stream ahead of a gale, making over tw'mty-five miles in leas than three hours. There weru tremendous tide- i-ips at an island about Hfteen miles up, which we succcNsfully passed through and arriveve the limit of tide the stream divides into two nearly ei|ual branches, each with a deeply cut valley. The climate seems to be less rigorous than along the coast, as the willows grow to bushes several feet high, instead of only rising an inch or two from the ground as on the seii-shore. The following morning an attempt was made to catch salmon and Suliuoii ami trout with a fly at the foot of the rapid, but without success, although ''""'• a number of large trout were seen swimming about in the eddies. The Eskimos returned at noon with a part of a very large buck, which had been killed the previous evening ; and on their arrival we started down stream. When the island was reached where the heavy tide-rips had been noticed on the previous day, we found that a ledge of rock extended from the island to Ijoth shores, causing a rapid with about six feet fall in two hundred yards. It was rather exciting to sail down with the yacht with only sufficient wind for steerage, but we got through safely and continued down stream eight miles, until met by the rising tide, when the anchor was dropped until the next ebb. We got under way at three o'clock next rac .-ning and drifted down to the Eskimo encampment, where we paid ofl' our pilots and 23 L ■OtTil IHORI or BDIMOII ITRAIT. Ilurrt-ii' I'arilani. I'liyne Buy. Oiingfrotu ■ ntraiice to I'iiyne Kiver. Unded to photognph th« nativM. We boaght a number of Arctio trout which had been taken ia a net, and were informed that the Atlantic lalmun were aliio abundant in the river. The natives were on their way to the caribou hunting grounili*, some lifty miles above where we turned back on the river. They would remain there for a few weeks spearing the barren-ground caiibou m they croitMd the river in great bands during the autumn migration southwards to the edge of the wooded region. In the afternoon we continued down the river and along the south shore of the Uy, coming to anchor among some islands nine miles beyond the south point jf the bay. Across iU entrance, from Tuvalik to tho south point, Payne Boy is fourteen miles wide. It gradually narrows to about three uiles at the mouth of the river, which is eleven miles to the westward of Tuvalik. The bay is generally shallow and dotted with Lsl. nds and Iwuldery shoals. There appear to be two deep channels leading frc-u the muuth of the river toward!) the sea, one on either side of a group of tivei-slands about three miles off the mouth. The deep water extends beyond the islands, but outside, in line with the capes, there appeared to be a number of low bars and shoals which practically block the entrance to the river for large vessels. The river at iU mouth is nearly three miles wide, but decreases rapidly to a point projecting from the south shore, three miles up stream, where it is about two-thirds of a mile across. Above the point it again widens, and varies from three-quorters of a mile to a mile and a half, for fifteen miles, to where it takes a sharp bend to th.' northward, two miles below the first rapid. The bend is a mile long, when the river ogain flo'VB from the westward for six miles from the head-of-tide rapid. On the lower course the bays are shallow and are generally dry at low tide, presenting mud-flats covered with Ijoulders, these beinx particularly thick along the outer margin of the flats w here they have been shoved up by the ice. A number oi .shoal pointe and bars stretch out from both shores and there are also shoals dividing the deep channel of the lower part of the river. These bars and shoals are covered at high-tide and are then very dangerous owing to the large boulders scattered over them. As has been already mentioned, there is a reef of rock extending from shore to shore at the island above the bemi, the heavy rapid caused by it is not more th>in ten feet deep and forms a practical bar to further navigation. Above the island, the channel appears to be uniformly of good depth for the next six miles, to the second rapid, where a line of boulders iW- ■^1 rnvdCAL riATVRU. 23 L the river »nd »t low-tide c»uies « Wl o« ;Sw wV^*bove thU r.pid. navigable only with .m.U boaU .nd very rat^dlv'ry where, but without any direct fall. The river fork, .bout riie:iveth;rapid..nd^n.edi.tancefurtherupthe...nW^^^^^^ Lin divide. The middle branch «. w. ..ut of Payne Lake about a r d"rit:. to the wentward of the .nouth of the river and it .^^^^^^^^^ the outlet of the lake that the E.kim.« go for car.bou. The *olumeof the nvcr i. ontimated to equal thut of the (latineau at Ottawa. The Unk. Ibove high.wau,r mark are generally -ky, except .n the bay . where the drift terrace. are faced with dry wall.o. lx,ulder« THeh lU :„ «th .ide. of the valley are continuous except -»'"^J>-J- ''^ ^^^^^ v^ley« of .mall tributarie. ; they gradually .ncrea.e ,n height from the Z^,t inland being f~m 200 feet to 300 feet near the bay and about ^^;:t:t;he upper rapid. There a., considerable epo.u. of cUy overiain by s.nd in the valleys, an.l the«, are terraced up to 300 feet above sea-level. Payne River i. the only imporUnt .trea.n flowing into Hud«>n Praj^. -jf^ Stfait tetween it. mouth Ld King George Sound, none of the other .„,,,... ^rTufficiently large to drain an area extending fifty m.le. ^Z^'Z:^^'oJ^>^ that the area ai^ng the coa«t mu.t l^ lier than the interior portion of northern Labrador, and tha ^y, tZl flowing into Hud«.n Strait and the northern part of UnirUay only drain a relatively narrow outer slope of coastal h.lK Ungava Oay «,uthward and then e.«t or west into iCanSln bays' Tlus is bo^ne out by the de.scription . the Ungava anu j ^^^ ^^ j^,. ^„;,^,^j (.^^ CnriC-dtuttXloweraLflatterthanthehighlandso Payne.U.vtr ana ^^^ j^^^^j ^i^,, j^^es and covered ThVlt Wrr-th o? vegetation. affo.ling excellent fe«iing- grounds for immense herds of cinbou. ^ .. 1 t. 1 ^ m with a. liirht south-west wind l,ii» «liiir>* On Aucust 20th, we started at 3 a.m. with a iigiii siu ^^^ ^^ _^^ i MTsouthward along a low flat coast, being gradually force- --" ut ^.x .nches of snow on the deck. In the evening the wind shift^ liable U. »u.lden ch»oge« and i» often ihallow. The roainlan.i haa the Mune character a* the iaUnda and i« to broken by bay» that it ia very difficult tu dintinguiab cuaat from ivlandi. Fdiii thf fouthern limit of the island)* wo irooswl a ■•n.y. Thi« i» calle.1 Leaf Hiver Hay, and i» alwut eight miles wide at its mouth, hut ^»f K.*w narrows to three miles acnwn some ten miles up. This we Warned was the eutranie to Leaf Ij«ke, a brxly of salt water divided from the bav hy 'I de»-p narrow strait walled in hy hijth rocky cliffs. A small vessel culled the For is sent annually by the Hudson's Bay Company from Fort Cl.imo to kill white porpoises in the lake. The captain of the /•-.. estimates the lake to l» nearly fifty miles lon« and about *«" Jj'^JJ^IJjl" miles wide. Its longer axis runa about north-mirthwest, and the out- let is Mtuateny Point, where we were obliged to anchor liehintl a rocky islet in a heavy swell, owing to the wind dying out. The south side of the buy b.'iiig formee Koktoak or ITiigava River. This part of the cott.st is low, with only three or four islands of shingle close to the shore and separated •26 SOUTH SHORE OF HUDSON STRAIT. Arrival at Kort Chinio. Islands off Whale Uiv, WliuN- Ki from the mainland by shallow channels dry at lowtide. The water deepens slowly to about five fathoms a mile off shore, and there appears to be very few shoals outside that limit exoept towards the mouth of the river, where a number of rocky islands and shoals extend outwards from the noiih point for more than a mile. Other shallow places in the mouth of the river render an entrance hazardous without the aid of a pilot. We stopped at the mouth of the river until 1 p.m., awaiting the rising tide which carried us to Fort Chimo, thirty miles up, where we arrived at 5.30 p.m. and found the Hudson s Bay Com- pany's steamship Erik at anchor opposite the fort. She had krrived on August 20th from Churchill, this being the earliest arrival on record. We remained at Fort Chimo until \ugust STth, making necessary repairs to the yacht and equipment, and then left for Ueorge River which empties into the south-east part of Ungava Bay about 100 miles to the eastward of the mouth of the Koksoak. Before leaving, arrange- ments were made with Captain G-ay for the transport on the Erik of the yacht and equipment from Fort Chimo to Nachvak on the eastern Labrador coast, where the yacht would be available for another season's work in the Strait or Hudson Bay. This would not have been the case if the yacht had been laid up at Fort Chimo, owing to the impossibility of reaching that place until the end of August, too late for any effective work. We dropped down the river and anchored in a small cove on the south side near the mouth, where we waited for the next morning tide, which carried us eastward fifteen miles, past a number of low shoals of rock and boulders stretching nearly ten miles off the .south point, until we finally brought up against a line of reefs, bare at low tide, that extends northward from the islands at the mouth of Whale River to • and beyond a large island called Saiglorsoak, that lies sixteen miles outside. This island is surrounded by a cluster of smaller ones, all high and rocky and forming good marks in stearing for the Koksoak River. Saiglorsoak is about five miles long and should be kept well to the southward as the reefs continue some miles beyond it. We turned south along the west side of the shoals and with the rising tide soon reached the channel between Big Island (Whale River) and the mainland. The channel nnrrow.s from a width of three miles at its entrance to less than a mile at the upper end of the isln- J, seven miles farther up, where a sharp bend of a mile to the eastward leads to the true mouth of Whale River. The deep part of the channel is quite narrow and is bounded ijy extensive mud-flats on both sides iO*. J FUT8ICAL FEATURES. 27 L that are bare at low-tide. The current in the channel is very swift, and at several places breaks into rapids and tide-rips. At the bend we picked up an Eskimo, who wa» engaged setting salmon net« for the Hudson's Bay Company, and with him as guide reached the Hud- son's Bay post, situated on the east Unk eight miles above the mouth of the river, arriving there after dark. The channel up to the post varies from a raUe to a mile and a half • width and is full to the banks at high-tide, but at low-tide, bare .uJ ;:;;^^ 'Kcjpv over two thirds of the width, with the deep channel onsidtrably b«k. v their level. The post is situated at the head of i.. isuH.m, ther • }■< mg shallow rapids only a short distance above it, w ,l e the i.ifiuen. ; of the tide censes. The river has a volume about equal to umi- .>; Po'ne River and drains a large area of country to the southward, between the drainage-areas of the Koksoak and George rivers. It rises in large lakes about 200 miles inland, on one of which the Hudson's Bay Company formeriy had an outpost, mentioned as Erlandson's Lake post in McLean's narrative.* The post at Whale River is merely a fishing establishment [l;;;;;;;;;".^'^''^- and small trading station for the natives in the vicinity, consisting of ,„st. three small buildings. The salmon fishery in the lower part of the river was formerly a paying industry, but has been gradually decreas- ing and this year (1897) was almost a total failure, as were the fisheries in the Koksoak and George rivers. The banks of the river are generally low, with terraced drift behind and highlands in rear of the post, where the hills rise about 300 feet and are partly wooded with small black spruce and larch, the woods extending nearly to the mouth of the river. The coast between the mouths of the Koksoak and Whale rivers is ^jv^^t '^tYn™ Tenerally low, with a range of hills extending from the mouth of the w'i.ale rivers former stream south-east about the head of False River Bay to the mouth of Whale River. There is a shallow bay on the south side of the mouth of the Koksoak, between these hills and the end of a low Ijouldery point five miles to the north-east of them. Rounding this point, the coast trends to the south of east for ten miles, to the mouth of False River Bay, so called on account of having been often mistaken for the mouth of the Koksoak. This bay is several miles long and about three miles wide at its mouth, but is .so shallow that it cannot be navigated even by small craft. A low point separates False River Bay from the west channel to Whale River which has been already described. ' Notes of a Twenty-fivH years service in the Hudson '-< Bay Territory, London, 1849, 28 L SOUTH SHORE OF HUDSON STRAIT. Coa.it f-Mt of VVhule River. I i Ne.xt morning we loft the post on the top of high-water and sailed out by the channel to the east of Big Island which can only be used by small craft at high-tide. Then, with a fair wind, we continued north-east along the coast for forty-five miles and anchored at dark in a small rocky cove quite open to the sea. The coast passed is generally low with an occasional rocky point. The water is very shallow everywhere for two or three miles oflF, and we were obliged to keep that distance out to avoid striking. There are a few rocky islands scattered along the shore, but they are surrounded by water too shallow to attord harbours behind them. Two long bays were passed, which extend inland between the high hills that rise beliind the low maj-ln along shore. The natives say that three small rivers empty into the heads of these bays, one stream flowing into the west- ern bay and two into the eastern. These bays are very shallow and at low-tide are nearly dry and quite unapproachable. The margin of low land varies from one to five miles in width ; beyond it the country consists of rocky hills rising to altitudes varying from .500 to 1000 feet • the hills are broken by the deep valleys of the rivers mentioned and those of minor streams. _ We got under way at four o'clock next morning and arrived at 7 a.m., at Beacon Island on the west side of the mouth of George River, seventeen miles from the starting point. The wind freshened to half a ^'ale, blowing directly out of the river, and in conse<,uence we only made six miles more by 11 o'clock when we were forced to anchor behind a large rocky i.sland on the east side to await the next rising tide. This was the strongest wind in which we had sailed durmg the season and the tide ag.dnst the wind raised a heavy short sea. The yacht behaved splendidly, however, working to windward with treble-reefed n.ainsail and reefed fore-staysail without straining and dry except for the flying spray. We remained behind the island until 4 p.m., and then made about six miles Iwfore dark, when we anchored under a point about two miles below the Geor-e River Narrows. " The coast from last night's anchorage to Beacon Island is higher and more rocky than to the westward; it is greatly broken by irregular rocky points, and is fringed with islands. The water unfor- tunately remains shallow. We started early on August 31st, and succeeded in getting within a m.le of the cove where the Hudson's Bay Company's post is situated before tl>o change of ^^de. There we anchored until evening, when we worked the yacht into the cove. PHYSICAL FEATfUES. 29 1. The cove is on the east side of the river twenty-three miles from Bea- HikIwmi's Hay con Island. The post consists of the usual three or four small houses. >,',!,{ iit(»eor(te built on the side of a hill that rises about 700 feet above it. The Kmr. opposite side of the cove bounded by a similar hill, and the situation is very desolate, especially at low-tide when the bottom of slimy mud and boulders is bare out to the river a mile away. A few stunted trees grow along the banks of a large brook which flows into the upper part of the cove. The post is kept up chiefly for the salmon fishery and for the trade with about twenty families of Eskimos living along the eastern shore of Ungava Bay. The George River is a large stream second only to the Koksoak ; it (^-orifi- Kivtr, drains a wide area of country to the southward, extending from the western slopes of the Atlantic range to the Whale and Koksoak drainage-areas on the west. It rises in large lakes of central Labrador, in the vicinity of the fifty-fifth parallel of north latitude, close to the head-waters of the North-west and Hamilton rivers which flow east- ward into Hamilton Inlet. Beacon Island is the largest of a group lying off the western point at the mouth of the river, and is situated alxtut two miles fnim CJull Island, which is connectere ihan a mile away, and as this can only l)e done when the tide i- >.e than half in, the ship always tries to be at George Kiver near the time of highest, tides. There is a great difference in the appearance of th'> river at high and low tide. When the tide is high the water reaches to the foot of the bold rocky shores 30 SOUTH SHORE OP HUDSON STKAIT. Surrounding •Muntry. Return to Fort Chimo. Return to Ottawa. generally without a beach, while at low-tide a wide margin of boulder- strewn mud intervenes between the channel and the rocky banks. Below the narrows are a number of shoals bare at low-tide, especially along the east side. The hills about the mouth of the river range in altitude from 100 feet to 400 feet. As the river is ascended there is a gradual increase in the general elevation, so that above the narrows the hills are from 500 co 1,000 feet high, and the general level of the country is close on 500 feet. Drift lies in considerable thickness in the valleys between the ranges of hills, and along the river, terraces are seen up to 300 feet above the present water-level. Small spruce trees are first seen a short distance above the eastern bend, and the forest becomes quite thick and continuous in the river valley about ten miles above the post. The influence of the tide extends to a rapid some ten miles beyond the post, and above it the river varies from ii quarter of a mile to a luile in width and is very swift, flowing in a shallow channel with nearly continuous rapids but no actual f-Us. It is navigable with boats for about forty miles above the post. On the 1st of September we left the post and reached Beacon Island on the falling tide, where we remained until next morning, when wa laid a course for Saiglorsoak Island, and anchored, in a calm, about nine miles off the south point at the mouth of the Koksoak River. Owing to calm weather we did not reach Fort Chimo until the afternoon of the 4th. The next few days were occupied in stripping the yacht and loading it aboard the Erik which left for George River on September 8th. From the 8th until the 1 7th we remained at Fort Chimo, anxiously awaiting the arrival of the Diana, which on the latter date steamed up the river in a heavy snow-storm. Fort Chimo was finally left on the 19th and after a quick pa,s8ago we were safely landed at St. John's, Newfoundland, on the 25th. From St. John's, passage was taken in the Ceylon a trarap steamer partly loaded with iron ore, and after a very rough voyage we reached Halifax on the 30th, where the members of the party separated and I returned to Ottawa on the 2nd of October. GEOLOGY. General Observations. *JlZu^L '^''^ '"^^^ *'°°« *^® **"*** '=°*'* °* Hudson Strait and the west and obrervations. ^outh shores of Ungava Bay, present many interesting and complex problems. The occurrence of numerous quartz veins in the bedded rocks near to their contact with intrusive masses of greenstone and -*1 GENERAL GEOLOOr. 31 L granite are iinportant, oh such conditions are favourable to the pre- Miiipniliatl. sence of the more valuable minerals, and although no such minreals '•"'"'*'' '"''"'■ were found during the exploration, there is no reason why they should not l>e found with more detailed search, as many of the veins carry large quantities of pyrites. Bedded iron-ores were found, and although those examined were not of a very high grade, better bodies B.-il,u.(i irmi of ore might doubtless be found in the extensive areas of this iron- ""'"• bearing series of rocks seen at a number of localities on the coast. The long line of coast explored in the limited time at the disposal of the expedition, toj,'ether with the difficulties of navigation in the shallow waters along the greater part of the coast, where the difference between high and low tide varied from twenty-five to forty feet, only Dirticiilti.s ..t allowed of a hurried examination «ach day of a few points on the tij;'l'ti,',ll,"""' shore, at considerable intervals, so that a thorough examination of the rocks was impossible, and conseciuently only such relations as couid be made out from these isolated observations are here given. These northern coasts are ideal places for geological investi;»ation, owing to the absence of trees and often of all vegetation, which leaves the rocks almost continuously bare ; while below the 300-foot level the shores, as they have risen from the post-glacial subsidence, have been smoothed and polished by the pounding of floating ice, which has removed nearly all the drift from the points, leaving the solid fresh rock always exposed. The rocks met with are all of great antiquity, and all are more or less Anci.nt n .tk-. altered by pressure, induced by intrusions of igneous masses which nas folded the bedded series and have produced foliation in much of the otherwise massive granites, gabbros, diabases and other greenstones The foliation of the granites shows that the pressure was exerted from a direction varying from west to south-west. Where massive beds of cherts and quartzite have resisted the folding action, they, with their associated beds of softer shales or slates, have lieen shoved into ridges by over-thrust faults, giving the hills cliff-faces inland, while their seaward slopes conform closely with the dip of the beds. Biotitegranite or granitite and biotitegneiss, especially the latter, Pi,.,i„iiiinanc. together occupy fully three-quarters of the coastal area. The granite "' K''"'"" ■""' and gneiss have commonly a medium texture, and vary in colour from light-pink to flesh-red, the light coloured varieties predominating. These rocks are usually very quartzose and often grade into impure quartzites, and in the gnessic rocks dark-red garnets are usually present. Masses of hornblende-biotite-granite are associated with the biotite- granite and in places appear to represent only more basic portions of 32 L SOUTH §IIORE OF HUD80N 8TBAIT. Prohahli- different origiiu (if RneJKH. the Mme magma. Tlie gneisses seem to be metamorpliic products of several rocks of difleren*, age and origin. Some of them are very ancient and probably represent part of the original Archwan com. pier. Others may represent gran-tes of a somewhat later date, injected into the first, but still long anterior to the time of deposition of those sedimentary beds of Labrador that have been provisionally classed as Cumbrian. A considerable part of the gneisses has, however, been formed from the alteration and quartzose inaitration of the bedded series of tlm Cambrian near the contacts of these rocks with great intrusions of later granites ; and, finally, some of the gneisses are foliated parts of these later granitic intrusions. All these gneisses of different origin are very similar in appearance and composition, and often could not be distinguished from one another in the hurried examination given tliein, except in a few places where the conUcts were clearly seen. Tliese places are mentioned later in the detailed ascount of the exposures examined. Owing to the difficulty or impossibility of differentiating these gneisses of several ages and origins, they have all boon classed together and no attempt is made to separate the so-caIle a massive hornblende- rock with a diabase structure, there l>eing little or none of the original augite remaining in the rock. Numerous small veins of quartz cut these nicks, and in a number of places small cavities an. -J riEOI.O twenty fwt deep, ttlied with anguliir frnKmenln of rock whicli near the fault ha« Ijp^n greatly Hhatlered with u development of chlorite and serpntine Jilling small criickH. Along the eant side of the ouU>r lovf between the |)en!nsuli» and the mainland, pink and rod uhuuIIv coarse grcinel jsrnnitiU'Knei:** pre- dominates. It is as«ooiiitc. of gneisa hold a few email garneta. Joy and Whitify limj^. On the end of the long point in Joy Jlay, dark red, ooar«i«rniuese bands that contain a considerable (|uantity of magnetite in grains and patches forming a magnetite-gneiss very similar to that found laceehan"in.' the strike from S. SO' W. to N. 10 W., and they also send ofF"red pegmatite dykes, generally along the lines of foliation, into the schis- tose gneisses. Cope Hopes Advance to Payne Hirer. Ten miles south of the Cape, on one of the Eiilor Islands, the masses of intruded, red hornblende-mica-gneiss were carefully traced, and were found generally to conform with the foliation of the light-coloure.l gtanitite-gnfisses; but when followed along the contact, the red gneiss was found crossing the foliation in places and turning the lamime of the light-colourod gneiss close to the contact, as if by the tlow of the intrusion. In many places there is a gradual passage from one variety of gneiss to the other. The irrupted masses when followed along the foliation were seen to pinch out at both .'nds and have evidently "been intruded from below. In texture, the hornblende-mica gneiss varies from tine-grained to a coarse pegniatitic rock, distinct from later peg- matites which cut all the rocks and hold crystals of tourmaline, biotite and hornblende. .Most of the light-coloured granititegneisses are very quartzose and are interbanded with darker, more basic gneiss, made up '] OEOLOOICAL OBSERVATIONS. 41 L largely of chlorite and decomposed hornblende with greenish plagioclaxt; and bluish opalescent ([uartz, very similar to that found in the squeezed diabase previously mentioned. This rock is taken to be such an altered diabase, rendered acidic by tlie accretion of quartz Iwtween the laminip of the bisilicates. Ten miles south of this exposure, the rocks are dark-gray, mica- schist and hornblende-schist associated with loarser light-gray grani- tite-gneiss and coarse red granite. Dip. N. 10' E. < 70 . P'ive miles further south, the intrusive granite predominates and incloses intinsiv broken bands of tiner-grained garnet-gneiss. The next examination was made twenty miles further on, at the north side of Dry Bay where there is a prominent hill composed largely of light-gray granitoid- gneiss with interhnnded medium to coarsegrained, red granitite-gneiss and also bands of mica-schist and mica-hornblende-schis^t, usually thin and broken. At the south point of Dry Bay the rock is all gray and pink gneiss, varying from medium to coarse grained and at times having an augen structure. Strike N. 25' W. From there to the entrance of Payne Kiver Bay, the same gneisses prevail, with an occasional large dyke, altered to hornblende-schist, and at times considerable areas of the mica-schists and mica-hornblende-schists. At the north point of Payne River Bay, the rock is a coarse, red granitite-gneiss with little foliation. This rock continues about five miles up the bay, when a change is made to a metamorphosed series of clastic rocks which forms the hills and islands of tlie upper part of the l)ay and lower pe luissing into )!aik-jrrjiy iiuiirtzitt' with partiiijfs of mica ,')«)*> LtKliti >»'llo\v*-\v*'atlKTiii^:, Mottlu'il witlt brown, tint' granular (luartzitf, witlipalclit-sof ankcritfaiul >onu- liiUH. Tliis rock towanls tin- top sliaili's to a M« 7» l)arkliluir.li. >laty ipiaitzit'', liuldiiiffconniil'Talili' niaj;- iiftiti', .'incl >.|iacling\ipwards into Imrrcn. ilarkcpiartz- iti* containing a small iH'rci'Utagt of limi- ami lumps and vi'ins of (lark ihcrl ICiii I)ark-^ray an-nacfons slate ;>•') |)ark, niaKxivc, (piurtzilr v.itli a f>'« partings of slatf.. 4iP 42 L SOUTH SHORE OF HUD80X 8TBAIT. HnrnbU'iK cherts, lie Slie.-t»Mf gubhn ■. Kwt. Dark iiiicn-KchiHt 20 Lii;ht niicn-Nchixt lo Dark mica-lil','es with perpendicular faces towards the .south-east aud gentler slopes in the opposite direction corresponding to the dip of the bedding of the rocks. Quartzites and very (juartzose mica-gneisses predominate riusli, .1 and are assoeiate"<>rtlii.Mt.-. oftnn resembles a decomposed crushed anorthosite. All the rocks con- tain more or less garnet. A few bands of rusty-weathering quartzite hold patches of aiikerite .iiid probably repre.sent a more highly meta- morphic phase of the rock met with at the moulh of Payne River. (I'l/r/'alroti I-iland to Kokal: Hirer. The rocks forming a small island on tlii^ south side of l*af I5ay, are chietlv dark-green ainphibolite and hornblende-schist, together with bands of ([uartzose, schistose mica-gneiss cut by large dykes of light- pink pegmatite and coarse red granitoid-gneiss. The amphibolite is very coarse in texture near its contact with the pegniiitile and graniU>. From this island to .Stony Point, the shore i lar^'ely formed of light- coloured granite and gneiss. < >n the small islands off the point, a medium-grained, light-pink granitoid-gneiss predominates, and holds broken bands of light-gray biotite-gneiss often containing small garnets; both the granitite and the gneiss are cut by red pegmatite. Thecocst from Stony Point to the mouth of the Koksoak is low, with few rock- exposures, all of which appear to be similar to that last described. \i.i|iliil"iliti- 44 L SOUTH BIIORE OF HUDSON STRAIT. Kr:uiiti«. The rocks along the Koksoak to Fort Chiino have been descrilied in a previous Ileport.* They consist of a bedded series of inica-siliists hornblende-schists and gneisses cut by hornblende-granite and large veins of pegmatite, the irrupiives predominating towards the mouth of the river. A'ofmoak liiiyr to Georgn Hiivr. The coast between the Koks.i;vk and Whale Hiver is very low, with shallow wat<"r extending far out and quite unapproachable with the yacht until the channel on the west side of Dig Island is reached, where the shores become higher and give an almost continuous rock exposure up Whale River to the Jhidson's bay post. The rocks are all light-coloured gneisses and granites, being made up lar-ely of irruptives containing shattered bands of a highly meta- morphosed bedded series, now forming very (juartzose, garnet btaiing biotite-gneiss and schist, with less hornblende-schist than to the north- ward. JJetween the mouths of Whale and (ieorf^e rivers, the wide flats and Iwulder-ridges which extend far out from the low shores rendered close examination of the rocks impossible, and only a few landings were made on islands and rocky points. Wherever an examination was made, however, gray biotite gneiss with mica-schist and hornblende- schist were found, cut and sliattered by red granites and pegmatite. The same rocks occur on the islands along the east side of the mouth of Ge.rge River and up that stream to the Hud.son's Bay post. At (Jul! Island an.l along the west shore for ten miles above it, there are large exposures of dark h.isic rock, now chielly diorite-gnei.ss, and evidently representing large masses of gabbro or diabase correspond- ing to the basic irruptives met with in the bedded .series as previously desciibed. K\ti lit i.f ii-. »lifit. coast, so that, as a rule, the striic on the hills run nearly at right angles to the general trend of the coast. The direction of the ii-e-ilow was, however, Tujdi- fied by that of deep valleys along the coast, the ice-stream accom- modating itself to the valleys and pouring down these into the sea. The striie are not well mnrked on the exposed points and islands along the coast below the 400-foot level, having been obliterated by the pounding of floating ice during the uplift subsequent to the main period of glaciation. LiKt (if Ghtrial Striii. I>iiiigliiH llnilMmr, on hills iit lit-ail of S.W. .Ann N. 75 K. •1 M ut |N>ii;t Im t»t'<'ii tlii'iiniis N. II 'Jinilrs from |»>iiit, \V. -iilrS. \V. Ann.. \. L'.5' K. Fi.-^her Hay, on top of iHlaiuI at aiidiornpt' N. .*> X. 80' K. M .1 on Niiiuinlt .if the |»'iiiiisiila X. .""O K. ■ ■ 1. oil Huiiiiiiit of east wide at mouth . X. -.>' K. X. 30- K. Ca|«^ Priiict) of Walt'H, on fn' K. Joy ISay, niili'MfromS. iHiinton sunnuit of hill5' K. 2.-> .. " ■. X. 1!) K. Diana Bay, aonthwi'st jioint of till' 'argf island X. 40 W. C'aiK* Hoft'rt .Vdvancc X. W>' K. KidiT Islands X. L'.")' K. X. 40 K. „ X. 40' K. Flat Hay, sumniit of hill on noitli si.l,' X. 40' K. .< soutli |K»iiit X. TS"* K. I'loviT Islands X. r^-.' K. VJniili's no.tli of I'ayni' Kivcr Hay X. 4.V K. On suuiniit * ' hills at nnd of pxploration, Payi.- iti\ur. X. 40' K. 10 mill's sou'.i of Taynf River Hay X. l."!)' K. Cone Island liyrfalc'on Islands X. JCi' K. Xf.iinland at I iyrfalctm Islands X. 30 K. Leaf Kiver Hay, small island on stmtli side. . . X. :15' K. l.'i miles west of mouth of (»eor(.'e River X. iV W. Island on the east side of i. X. Kadial H. w of ice. I.i-t I •f Klac'ial Marine Terracex. The greatest depth of submergence ami the perimls of rest during the uplift of the land toward the close of the glacial period, are marked 4« L SOUTH 8H0RR OF IICDION STRAIT. Tfrr»ci» innrkiiiK liniilx i>f HUlwHU'llCt* • tho land. Hiffln-Bt tfrriKCH. I 'li*'*|uai iililift f the river-valley and is continuous from the moulh to Stillwater Lake. It is accompanied bv marine stratified clays, so that its marine origin is undoubted. Fror.1 the foregoing facts, it would appear that there has been an une<|ual uplift of the northern portion of Labrador, the maximum, more than 700 feet, having occurred along the coast of Hudson Bay in the vicinity of Richmond (!ulf ; and that this region of maximum uplift was continued inland, eastward, more than half way across to Ungava Ba_v : while from Stillwater Lake a gradual decrease occurs to about the southern part of Ungava Bay, where the uplift is only about 300 feet. Passing northward, however, the uplift again becomes ;,'rc'ater, so that at the mouth of Payne River it reaches 325 feet and along the southern shore of Hudson Strait 405 feet. ^ * Annual Rc|i"rt. Cin]. Svirv. fan., vol. IX. (\..S.), p. 41 I., ■"»'» ^oooo '•] GLACIAL (IBOLOGY. 47 I. At DouglM Harbour, terracen below the upper level were noted at jj-^"*^';!"^ 276, 211!, 91, 46 and 37 fpet On the peninsula at the mouth of Wakeham Bay, well marked terraces occur at 180, 165, 150, and 65 feet, and at the head of the bay there is a broad terrace 'JO feet high. About Cape Prince of Wales the lower terraces are persistent, and at the mouth of the river flowing into Joy Bay the drift deposiU are terraced to above 300 feet. On the points of Joy and Whitley bays there is a continuous terrace at an elevation of 65 feet. The terraces at Dyke Head, lie in a small valley at the bottom of a cove facing the strait and afforded one of the best examples of terraced beaches seen on the coa«t, the height, being 40.% 330, 275, 255, 220, 175, 90 and 86 I'yl^' "•»-'■ feet, ony lower terraces being lost by the scouring away of the drift from the rock. Between Cape Hopes Advance and the mouth of Payne River, the country is generally low and drift-covered, and is made up of flat-topped plains that rise in low terraced steps, as only isolated rocky ridges have an elevation above 200 feet, high-level terraces are not frequently seen. At Cape Hopes Advance there is one at 190 feet, and on the side of a rocky hill near the Plover Islands there are two beache*. at 200 and 75 feet respectively. At the mouth of Payne River, the drift between the hills shows terraces at 323, 314, Vixyxw Kiver. 304 and 184 feet besides others at lower levels. Along the river the valleys between the hills are filled with terraced drift up to 325 feet, the lower terraces are cut from stratified clay which rises about l.JO feet above the level of tlie river, and is overlain by stratified sand nearly to the level of the highest terrace. From Payne River to the mouth of the Kok.soak, the low shores and slowly rising country in rear, gave only low terraces, seldom exceeding an elevation of 100 feet. The coast between the mouths of the Koksoak and George rivers is also low, and terriices are only seen K„k»oak and along the fianks of the hills several miles inlund. They appear to be ^■'- '^K'- "'"■*• continuous, with the highest estinwted to be about 300 feet above the sea. Along the lower reaches of the (Jeorge River to the Hudson's Ray post, the gullies iind banks where drift is lodged are terrace.1 to alwut 300 feet alwve the present level of the river, and the stratified clay appears to rise upwards of 100 feet above the water and is capped with stratified sand. ?. I •4 % X -i a: •/. (IKOLOCUCAL 8URVKY OF CANADA (1. M UAWSOS, C.M.O., LL.D., F.K.H., Diukctok RKPORT OK \> MPUlHATMlN l>\ THE IHTIEN SIDE OF IDSON STRAIT UOlSKin I5EKU ML'. LL.D., F.R.S. OTTAWA PRINTED BY S. K. DAWSON, PRINTER TO THE QUKEN'S rOSI EXCELLENT MAJESTY 1901 7tS 9c: To G. M. Dawson, C.M.(;., LLI)., F.H.S., itc, Directnr (ieologieal Siirii-y n/' Caiiaila. Sir, — Tlie acconipiinyin^' report on my Held- work of 1897, on the northern side of Hudson 8lruit, contains fuller descriptions tlian tlie summary report, already published, as to the topography of the region surveyed or explored, together with all the dettiilN in regai'd to its geology, which are i-onsidered worth mentioning. Some general information on Bathn Land is also given. The appendix contiiins lists of the plants and insects obtninepleinent the published lists oi .similar collections which I made in Hudson Strait in 18S1 and 1885, when many sp<-<:iniens were also secured in other de|>Mrtmcnt8 of zoology an<] lists of the species published in my refM)rt:. f-a- those years. The illustrations are .selected fiom my photograplis .is characteristic I'x.implesof the scenery of the coast. The topography and geology ot ; lie north side of the strait are reduced from my track-surveys, originally plotteil on a scale of 4 miles to 1 inch, and which re<|uired only slight adjustment to bring them into corres|>ondenoe with the numerous observed latitudes and longitudes. I have the honour to be. Sir, Your obedient servant, HOI5ERT BELL. Ottawa, Decembei, 1900. Note. — Th: beailngs throughout this report are ijiven irilh re/erenM t» the true meridian. REPORT (If AN KXI'I.OH.M Jl'N UN THE NORTHKHN SIDEOFHIDSON STRAIT HOBEUT ISELF-, M.D., LL.D.. K.I'.S. My .summary report for 18'J7 contains a general account of my exploration of that year on the northern side of Hudson Strait, or in the southern part of Batlin Land, includinj; a sketch of the geographical and geological resuUs. The present report is intended to give a fuller J''^'J;«'»"f '''- description of the topography and geology of this comparatively new '.Tgion, Uigether v.ith many faets which were observed in reference to its physical features, natural history, lx)tany, climate and other mat- ters which may he of interest or value. As stated in the above men- tioned report, the opportunity for making this exploration wasatlbrded i.v the s-iiding out of the sealing steamer Dlami by the Department iJinw^^ (if Marine and Fisheries to make investigations in the strait for other jinrposes. r was provided w ilU a small yacht at Halifax, which was carried on rlie deck of the steamer, and a crew of tour sailors was engaged to accom- pany me to the lield of operations, but ] had noa.ssistant. The Diana left the above port on tlu; ord of June, and our course lay through the Strait of Bellrisle, which wa> clear at thai seas.ni, but owing to ice Knt.i Hnd.un encountered off Ha.iiillon inlet, it was Uie -J-.'nd of June l)efore we ' entered Hudson Strait, wliich was found perfectly free of ice. Owing to the shij) keepint,' tfio nei.'r the north shore in going through the strait, we became jammed in ice ntl' I'.if: Island, which stands out prominently like a gieal })ier projected from tl.et side nnd intercepts the drifting shore-ire. This cimtretemps delayed us considerably, and it was therefore not till the T-'th of July that the Diaita had completed y,,,,,, ,,„h„,„ her first voyage into Hudson 15ay. ''■">'• It was originally intended that I .should be landed at a point in the vicinity of Kings I'npe, or as near as possible to the junction of the northeast side of Hudsii-'. Lvngtli < juumry diiiililwl. \V..rk Ak|)iitol M.tnil. but this wan found to be impracticable at the time we happened to arrive near that point on account of a rapidly moving ice-floe. Even- tually I comnieni-ed work at Ashe Inlet in Big Island. Before leaving the Dintia the plan agreed upon was that I should pro- ceed nort! westward up the coast a.s far aa possible, consistent with H tolerable certainty of being iible to return to Ashe Inlet in order to meet the ship there on the lOili of Sej;tember, so as to be taken to St. John's, Newfoundland, as arranged by the Minister of Marine and Fisheries. Had the captain of the Dinva succeeded in landing me at Kings Cape, I could probably have explored about double the length of coast that was piossible under the new arrange- ment. Owing to the very imperfect knowledge of the coa.st in the neighbourhood of Kings Cape and beyond it, and the alwence of any chart showing the coast even approximately, it was impossible to appoint a place to meet the ship in that vicinity, otherwise I might have kept on till I fell in with her. Being therefore obliged to go twice over the same ground, to say nothing of the d'>lay in getting to Ashe Inlet, I was able to ..ccomplish little more than half c»f what could otherwise have been done. Still, I managed to complete a good ^ track -survey as far as Chorkbak I.. let, over a length of 250 miles of ■ coast, checked by many ol)servations for latitude and lon;;itude, in addition to a traverse all around Big Island, 30 miles in length and IC in breadth, surveys of numerous inlets and of a route for 50 miles into the interior, to the shores of Lake Mingo, lying clnsa alongside Lake Amadjuak, which was also seen and bearings taken to various points on its shores. Having completed the above, I returned to Ashe Inlet, which wa.s reached ten days Ijefore the date appointed. The interval wa.s filled up by an exploration around North Bay nearly to Icy Cape, which lies east of Big Island. On the return voyage the Diana passed close to the north enil of Akpatok Island, which had heretofore been suppo.seut 1,005 En^^lifth statute miles ii with an average breadth of W') miles, its greatest width l«ing 500 and its least 1 50 mib^. Its area approximates SOO.OOO sijuare miles, and it therefore ooniprisfw alMiut one t*nth of the whole Dominion. It is the third largest island in the wurtd. being exceeded only by Australia and Ureenlitnd. iint'nsii'ii- \i.a. The land around Krobishei' l>ay was discovered by Sir Martin |)i,i;,iuiv. Frobisher in 1576. Captain .John Davis discovered Cumberland " Island," now known to form the eastern part of Haliin Lund, in 1585. The northern pait of the great island was discovered by Captain William Bathn, in 1616. It was, until recently, called Cockburn Island, although it had been named BatKn's Island or Baffin's Land by Lieutenant (afterwards Admiral) E. W. Parry, in 1821, ' out of re spect to the memory of that able and entei]>rising navigator.' Thesi' lands therefore fanned part of the British possessions in North Am- erica, by right of discovery, dating from perimls of 14."5 to 183 years before the acquisition of Canada. They were formally transferred to '|'|.„|,f,.,.ri,,| ,,, the Dominion l)y Order-in-Council of the Imperial Government on the •anailii. 1st September, 1880, together with all the islands of the Arctic archi pelago lying to the northward of the mainland of the continent. XamiUv^ and (j'rtieral DnHcription. For a short narrative of my season's operations and a brief general \;,i,..it;v,.,if deseription of the portions of the coast and interior examined, I cannot "i" '■iti'"!- do better than quote the following from my summary report, written very soon after my return : The Diarui brought me to Ashe Inlet on the 19th July, and my |m,| ^^ ^ i^^ yacht was launched there on the 20th. The following day the wind Inlet. blew too strongly for us to get out of the inlet and the time was spent in fixing its position relatively to other geographical features of Big Island, as a commencement of a track-survey of the coast. On the 22nd we made a start to windward, intending to pass up on the out- side of Big Island. Before leaving the inlet, early in the morning, we 8 M NORTH 8II)R OF HUD80N 8TUAIT. 1^ KxkiiiioKiiiili fortunately found an Eskimo who had some knowledge of the Knglish language and was acquainted with the south coast and the southern interior of Baffin Land, and I engaged him to go with us iis guide and interpreter for the whole of our journey. He had slept near our anchorage and had nothing with him but a gun. The hull of our yacht was made of one inch white-pine boards. She WHS, tht'refore incapal>le of contending with the ice. and our safety lay in avoiding it altoicetliei . We had not >;one many miles up the outer coast of Big Island, when we met an ice-pack lying in our course lis far ahead as theeyecoulil reach. Our Kskimrt guide now advised us to try the passage between the island and the mainland, and accord- ingly we turned iMnk and attempted to get round the south eastern extremity, but on account of the wind failing us altogether we were able to make only about si.\ miles to the south-eastward of Ashe Jidet. Here we discovered a much l)etter harbour than Ashe Inlet, and I named it after Reeves, our sailing master. It is about a quarter of a mile in diameter, has two deep narrow entiances, a good bottom for holding and a depth of from live to fourteen fathoms at low water. The next (lay we rounded the south-eastern extremity of Big Island, which is about thirty miles long, but owing to a strong north-west wind we were obliged to anchor for the night among some small islands lying northeast of this |>oint. It was fortunate that we ttM)k this route, as we found the family and relatives of our guide camped on the lower end of the island, and he was now able to make arrangements with them for his absence till September. He had not pre\ iously told us anything about his jieople. At this season of tlie year there was continuous daylight in Hudson Strait during the whi>le twenty-four hours, and we sailed at ii«)iii> two o'clock the following moininii (24tli) and made a tr.ck-survey of "'■ the inner side of Big Island as well as of a part of tlii' main shore opposite. Two good liarlxjurs were discovered on this side of the island towards the northern end, and two more on the coast of the mainland in this vicinity. In proceeding northwestward up the cimst from l!ig Island the shore began to !« fringed with innumeral>le rocky islands thickly clustered together. The breadth of the belt or archipelago increased 1.,^,, as we advanced, until we approached the long iidet or fiord called ""'' Chorkbak, where our exploration ended. Here the islands became less numerou.s. The maximum breadth of the archipelago is about midway between Hig Island and this inlet, and is alxjut twenty-tive miles. The islands vary in size from ten miles in length down to icliij.* .mil.' •J NARKATIVE ANM) QENEKAL DESf.'RlPTION. 9 ■ mere rocks. The spaces l)etw?en tho large ones are tilled up with smaller islands having ii griMt vuiiety of dimensions and form. As ii rule, the largest and highest islands lie towards the mainland, while the outermost ones are smaller und lower. In sailing among these islands it was only when near the outer edge that we could see a clear hori/.on to tiie .soutliwaid. The whole eo.ist is ru;.'ged and for the most part mountainous. M,„|„taiI|,,ll^ The innermost islands interlock with the hays and points of the main- cua^t. land in such a manner that it is impossible to know witliout the aid of a guide whether one nas reached the main shore or not. l)n ascending the higher liills or mountains of the outi.'r range~ on the mainland, 'ong eliannels of the sea can l)e seen running ^inland in dillerent Miuiv directions among thtr hills, which so closely resenihle those among the ' adjacent large mountainous islands that only a person alrendy ac- (juainled with the geography could trace the coast-line of the mainland. The larger islands are equally hilly and rugged and the channels hi'tween them ate usually not wide. Viewed from the top of a distant hill, so that the intervening channels eaiinot lie seen, the eye fails to detect any difterence Ijetween the general appeaiiiiK e of tlie islands and the mainland. The cimditions may be best (leseribed if we ima- gine a rough mountainous country, rising as a wliiie gradually to the norlhwarti, to liave been li ilf submerged. The outer islands, which ar<' also the smallest and most scattered, represent the more completely 'I" '-l"'"!-- sunken hills, while as we proceed inward the progressingly larger and larger ones represent the less and loss submerged areas ami ranges, until, at last, we find imly narrow channels of the sea running into the solid land, liesides these narrow and sometimes tortuous chan- tiel.s, numerous wide md tolerably straight fiords run inland. These generally have higli hills on either side of them. On leaving liig Island, it soon became evident that it would be impossible to make an instrumental survey of anj- considerable part of such a coast as this in the limited time that would be at my disposal, and that this time would be most advantageously spent in making the l)est track-survey possibii' ui!d<'r the ci?cumstances, especially as it was necessary to devote a poition of the time to geological obseivalion. I therefore determined to keep an accurate record of all the courses we o, ,|.,pj,.r ,,| followed among the islands or up the fiords, under the guidance of our >'ii v, y. Eskimo pilot, and al.so as good an estiinatf as possible of the length of each course, plotting them on diagrams as we went ah)ng. On these diagrams thi' relative positions of all the surrounding points, biiys, islands, hills, ,\:e., were al.so marked by the aid of many cross-bearings 10 N ilOKTII 8II>E or lll'DRON MTKAIT. h»rlH)iirH. OftfHTVatiiitio unc) tt>Ilecti»»ii*. W.iilli.- .\>tninoiiiii':il and entimated diiitancfs. OliservntiunK for the latitude and the varia- tion of the compaM were taken every dny, and I alwi ol)tained numerouM xightH for longitude. The (H)a.st iil)ounded in j^jchmI harbours, ane of interest in regard to this little-known region, whether from [lerscmal olwervations or from information 8u(;plied by the natives. From tlif time of our leaving Ashe Tnlet, on the 21st of July, until we returned to it again on the ist of September, the weather was mostly tint- and briglit, although cold u()oii the watec, but we suffered much delay from calms. The main obstacle to our progres-t, however, was the field ice, which appeared to have come into the strait from the eastward during the winter or early spring, and to have insinuated itself into every channel and tiord. When not tightly packed, it was constantly moving hither iind thither under the influence of the rapid and changeful currents geiieratwl by the high tides of the strait. The height of the mean tide at liig Island wu.s ascertained by Mr. Ashe to be 30 feet, and the time of high-water at full and new moon to be 9h. .■{2ni. Farther west we could not determine the time of high or low water, which was irregular, on account, apparently, of the effect of the retlux from Hudson Hay upon the in-coming or out-going tide of the strait ; while the local conditions, such as the directions, divisions, depths and widths of the channels still further complicated the problem. In trying to navigate our frail yacht in the o]ien spaces, the heavy ice would set down upon us or run together and threaten to cru.'ih our little vessel in the most unex|iected manner. Our under- taking was, therefore, constantly ai •cotiif)ttnied by great danger and an.xicty, and it was only by constant vigilance nii.'lit and day that we were fortunate enough to escape any harm during the entire trip. When we had reached a [>oint a little beyond tha entrance of Amadjuak Hay, we found the ice closely packet! anii.r.g the islands all around us. But the next morning the wind or tide iiad oi>ene(l a lane up the tiord itself and I exploren our return journey, I judged it prudent u. turn back from this plac- in order to lie .sure of lieing able to keep our appointment to meet the Diana at Ashe Inlet on the lOth of Septendx r. In returning I followe the main north shore opj^ite the island and explori'd it topographically and geologically nearly to Icy Cape. I then reti- ne.1 to Asle Inlet Ix-fore the l(»th, but owing to stormy weather, the Diana was not able to enter until the 12th. It only rei|uired two or thr. e hours to transfer our outfit ami surplus stores to the steamer and to dismantle the yacht and make her ready to tow across the strait to Fort (-himo, when' I projKised to leave her. •8 it was not considered advisable to risk taking her to St. John.'*. Newfoundland, on the deck of the Di'ina. On the following morning we reached the northern extremity of Akpatok Island in Ungava Bay, and after coastrng along t Ire eastern side of the island wc anchored clase to the shore aljout halfway to the southern extremity. This afforded me an opportunity of lamlinj; in order to take photographs, examine the rocks, colleit fossils and ascertain the heights of some of the cliffs and hills l>y the Imronretcr-. This w.is so far as I am aware, the first landing of a white man u|>on this island. Its position and gene'-a! form and direction are ern.ireously represented U|ioti the latest charts. The hypothetical " (Jreen Islatrd ' of the charts corresponds with the northern patt ai Akpatok Island as determined by the oh.servatio.is of di'tain Whiteley, and it is probable that thi.s, seen from tiie nortbward. was mr,>.'taken for a dificient island. Tiiiri liiM'k f Chork- Ixik Inlet. I!, join tllr Iti.iriM. L;iri<) ut<>k Mmii.I. Batfin Land bus the usual sub arctic climate and is destitute of trws. , .„ The rocks are p.incipally Laurcntian, not cmly in the portion which »;'t'i"- "f i 12 M NUHTII MlltR or ItUtlNtIN MTUAIT. 1 expluretj, hut aliHi nil iilong tli« nortlieiistern cixiNt, judginK from the iwcDuntit of Dr. Friiiix Hu.in, who Iihh travKlled over the ){i'<'uter length of ttiiH Niiie of ih« iHluiid, its wull iim fniiii oilier i-vi. The iiilund \-|Hi t. haM u Kriienilly iiiountainouM, or hilly mid luirreii aspect, Imt from the wmlern nhore Imrdering on I'ox liarativoly Ifvol Liturfntiaii .irt'iis occur. Thesp level portions are the favourite haunts of the reindeer in summer. At this season them, liut this soinhro charnc- tor ia often relieved in valleys and on hill-sides hy strips ami |>atclieH of mreeii, due to ;{rasses and sedjjes in the lower parts and U) a variety of tloweiin^' plants on slidterecl nIo|k!s i-x|)Osvd to the sun. The land- scBjx- is further relieved by Ion;; luinks and smiiller patches of while where the last of the snows of purluips several winters remain in sh»de- Miiaiilmns niiii fi/iniiTs. tlirirtioii t l.illK'i". l-!li-\ati(iii- ' llii'lii^'lil.im The inounttiins of Kalliii Land may Ih' •{r(iu|>cd as three prinripal ranges, all running north north wi-sterly nearly parallel ti« the eastern side of the island aiidthe western co.i.st of I ireenland, the north eastern or outmost range heinj; the hi;:hest and the .southwestern the lowest. According to Dr. Franz Itoas, the high inteiior of Hallin Land, Iviii},' just north of Cumberland Sound, is apparenlly all coveii-d with ice like the interior of Cirocnland. Around the mar^'ins nf this ire cap the ;.'eneral elevation abovt^ the sea is about ."i,O0(J t'eel, and it rises to .-ilxiut 8,0 d'i und 6:1, witli B breiidth of alHiut 'iO inileM. Tho mnooth Diiniirtil of the Klnvifr iit dintinctly visiblt- fn>iii vi»»h«"I» in Hudson Stritit in uortiiin conilitionn of the weiithiT. I liave been told that one narrow Htrt'Bni of ict* from its Mouthprn xjilt* rtsu-lie!) the watur of thu strait, hut I wan unable tu verify this. The ruu){h exiNtiiig chartH represent tb«' northt-rn side of the Kl>k(!i*^r us sending ice down at two or three |ila<«-H into the heads of inlets of I'loliislicr liny. The KskiuuM call iht- (irinnell glai-ier Ow-u i to, and my guide, Twinii, knew of only one jMiint at which it diachar^l into the nt-u. This place is railed i'ak' '»'"""'!""• vague reports reached mc of tin- existence of glaciers on some part.* of thtf whores of Kox Hasiii, but as no iceliergs have l)e«'n seen in the basin nor any known to come out of it, siiould there lie nny land ice in that direction it does not appear to reach the sea. No glaciers, even of Hmall size, are known to iM'cur in Twibrador, and there are probably none in southern Italhn I.iiiiid or elsewhere to the west of the lirinnell glacier. In the southern part of the great island, or along the north east sitlc ,„ of Hudson Strait, the land is high all the way from Resolution Island 'lui^t. to Fair Ness, the mountains near the coast rising from one to two thousand tent alMive the sea, but some of those which I saw in the int(>- rior at a distance of ulMiut one bundled miles north eastward of Fair Ness, appealed to lie iiiui'h higher and were capped with snow. The prominent (xiint ju-it named marks the teniiiiiatioii of the outer high ninge on tlie north side of the xtrait and U-hind it is Markhain Hay, with a bie-idth of fifteen miles. On the north side of this liny the land lH>comes much lower anil, except in a lew places, it continues so to beyoiul Cliorkbak Inlet, but as we approach the vicinity of Kings Cape, or Sik-o-su-liut, the height again becomes a thou.sand fiHjt or more. The Kskimos informed mo that the high and rugged land, (Laurontian) of this proiiKiiitury, continued northward up the east side of Fox ISasin to the Koukdjuax liiver, which titiws out of Lake Net- tilling. Beyond this the shore of Kox Basin becomes low and Hat for a considerable distance. This condition, as elsewhere explained, is T»'> irrf It tnki.. KiHlkcljiia Kivir. 14 M ROHTII IIIDI or HUINHtK MTRAIT. believed to be due to th.> preanoe of Iwdii of Hilurian linieHUme« lyinff Mlm(«t horizonUlly. JtttlKing from what I haw of the interiur of ItaDiii r^ind on my jour- ney to I^ke Amwljuak and on my return by a aomewUt different route, the niounUiu* are everywhere intenpersod witli lake*. Two of them are known to be of great nize. Lake Nettilling in [iropably atmut 140 Engliiih suiute mileH in lenKth. by 60 in breadth. Lak.- Amad- juak may exceed 120 mile!i in length l.y 40 in br.mlth in its central part, HO that their united urea niu»t !«• very cotuiderahb-. The greater diami>ter «. Ukt- Mingo, whoso outlines and dimen- i*ion!i wert< sketched by the aid of numerouH liearingn and cHtimated distiincet, has n xomewh'it rounded or compact form and in at leaat I'l mileii in diameter. It lien clone to the Miuth-weNtern wide e just .100 feet aliove the level of the sea, so that the elevation of I^ke Amad- juak will lie about -.'90 feet. The natives, includinx my guide, who have seen the Koukdjuiix Uiver, which disclmrKes this hike into Fox Haain, with a course of some fifty or sixty miles from ittt western buy, de- scribe it as a very large st ream with numerous rapids. This is only what might be expectwl, since the rate of desci-nt is prol»ably live or six feet per mile. Various reporU reached mi- of a large lake lying not far from the head of Frobisher \iiiy, but these may refer to I..ake Amiidjuak, which extends in that direction. The lakes, of which sketches were made on my journey from Amadjuak Bay to Luke Mingo, an- shown on the accompanying map, and they will be re- ferred to further on in describing the geology of the routes followed in going and returning. .Soiincliiig-. Origin nf Jliiilxoii Strait. Fox Channel or the .southern part of Fox Basin is a continuation of Hudson Strait, and the deep submerged valley in whicii they lie has a straight north-westerly course of 700 miles. Hudson Bay is com- paratively shallow. The bottom is very even and fi-om 70 to 100 fathoms in depth over great areas. Its outlet falls, at right angles, iKOI.iHi^ OK IIAKKIN LANK. lA M into the channt;! of liu(i>«oii 8tn»it, in which th«« >n Str«it and Fox Chiiiinel Uk, ii« probiibly of ""»"" very *nci«»nt j{colo({ic»l date. In th«» unmt Anhxaii roKions of north- ern Canadii, I have clHewhere nhown that th« lonx ^traJKht thannelii of numerous narrow l«k"H and direct river ci.ur«'ft are ve its present level, this vaMi^v wius sit- ni^v.'in.nt .,t unted on the dry lanil prolMil.ly as far down as the .xistiii- ifener.il Xni'r-. line of the Atlantic coast, .IS its flepth intmises from northwest to south east or from the interior t«)wanls the ocean, and Ih. ,, «ii,.p' of tho !»lacial fieri.«| niovwl from the hi}{!i laniU:* directly towards and into it and then down the i alley it'^.h. as vli,i.>n by the striation and the niat.iiais of tho drift. The few s .uiilmg, which lia\e been tiken eastward of the mouth of the strait would seem to show that its channel continues outward in the same direction, in the Isittom of the seii, with comparatively shallow water i imediately south of it. This latter section isoverlis.ked by the mountain^ niniiiim in that direction from t'ajw Chidley. A preglai iai river, exceinling in si/e any of those at present existinj; in North America and whose branches traversed the dry bed ,)i Hudson May, comini,' together in its north eastern part, prol)«l>ly Howcd down this valley into the Atlantic* ijf'ilwjy of Baffin Land. In the course of the voyage of the Canadian (iovernraent expedition steamer Xepliine in 1884, and of the Alpit, sent out on similar service in 1885, I ma |»U, and Animal Kf|Kirt (iiiil. .Sur\. (';.n., >..l. I. (X.S.) iss,"). |,|,. I.'JjDD. S mic< -* of P'' »i, »i.'iral infn)tn:itii>n. 16 M NOKTII HIKE OF IIIDSON iTRAIT. principal knowledge »£ the geology ■>( Hatlin Und available up t.. the prewnt time. In Dr. Franz Hoa-s's general dencription of thiH great island,* l)a8ed on his own observations afu-r a resilience there of tw.> years, a few notes are given in regard to the geology of some o> itn northern parts and of the region of its great lakes, which I shall give the results of my own investigations in the southern part of the island in 1897. Silliii.aii« ^ '"'■y ^""'" oalUer of nearly horizontal \mh of fossiliferous lime- Ko(iIil"Mmi.it. stone, shale and marl ^^■.ll/.l[^^r^lH■fl. Nr. >^». \»^. It;! 177, N '■ H"-- ^< ,\,„. .Immmi. Sri . 111. -ri.-. ^..l. VII. i\>*W f. TO. -^*4. (iBOLOOY OF BAFFIN LAND. 17 M the Htrait, but the examination of these bays in 1897 proved that nu fossiliferoua limebtone in nitii occurs there. The fragments referred to corresponded in character with the Trenton marl and limestone of Hillimaii's Fossil Mount. A gtxtd sized stream is described as running through and cutting o£f a portion of the mount, and this probably carries ((uantities of marl and limestone debris out upon the shore-ice in sprin;;. As above mentioned, the small iceber^^s from Puk-a-lui-a on the south-west side of Frobisher Bay, are known by the Elskimos to Hoat from thence through Gabriel Strait, and up the north-east side of Hudson Strait, and the shore-ice, when loosen<> llat trough of horizontal fos siliferous Silurian limestone, surrounded in a ijeneral way on ail sides by high Liurentian hills. The Kskimo guide who accompanied me to Lake Amadjuiik in 1>>'J7, informed me that he had [la-ssed round the •2 18 M NORTH HIDE OP Hl'USON STRAIT. I,uk>^ Ainwl western end of the lake and had viitited Lake Nettilling. Tbia latter jiiak and NVt tilliiiK. iimtimt. f..r Niirf lifiii ii.l. Otii. I I.. ;.l fil-t i>l 1-1 IV.1-1. Lan.i. name means ' flattloor,' and my guide said that flat-lying bere gneiss, which I found especially at Kingnait and P.mguirtung. In closest combiniition with the gneiss, ^Tanite also ociurs, which esi)ecially large i.'1'ainid, appears in the const ranges and islands, Aiiarnitung and Newakdjunk in Cumberland Hound ; Padloping, Kexertaxdjuin, Nud lung, Tupirbikdjowitjung and Siorartiiung on Davis Strait.' ■ III Cuniljerland Sound, as well as in the Naguimiut plateau, whicli latter is mostly comjiosed of fine-grained granites, there are foind at isolated places, diorites and trap-granulites which have broken through the granite. Tlie occurrence of these to the south on Blunt Peninsula has Ixen confirmed. In Cumberland Sound I found thsui at Panguir- tuiig. and in a well-marked dyke in Akuliaxliiig eastwaril from Kexerteii. The same diorite app«'ars also in the mountain Kalingu- jantt to the east of Kingnait.' • The Silurian limestones overlying the old crystalline rocks, have lieen already mentioned. The same are found besides in [Cyrus] Field I'.ay, and they compose nearly the whole northern coast of liaflinland. Hall found .sandstont- at I/>k's I-and, which perhaps lieloiigs to the Carboniferous formation. It is said to resemble that found by Parry at Aiitridge Bay [I'uiy and Hecla Stiait.J Here may also be men- tioned the .-.amples of sandstone found by Bessels at Point (iarry. From accounts by Captain Walker, of the ship Krik, coal is found in loose boulders in a stream at Eclipse Sound and on Agi;idjeu [Duriian Island.]' In the (.Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society of London, vol. ix., IH.'i.J, p. -JO!), there is a note by Dr. P. C. Sutherland, on the ■ |ii. A. l".-ti'iiii,'\iiii> Mitti'iliiiiK'ii KrK.'iiizmiK'astern side of BaHin Land, in which he says the crystalline rocks occupy the whole coast from Ciipe Walter Bathurat, at> the south side of Lancaster Hound to Cumberland Mound, and probably considerably Ijeyond it, and adds : ' To this I believe there is one exception at Cape Durban, on the G7th parallel, where coal has been found by the whalers ; and also at Kinf;nait, two dejin'es to the south-weHt of Durban, where, from the appearance of the land as viewed from n diHtunce, trap may be said to occur on l)oth sides of the inlet. Graphite is found abundant and pun>, in several islands situate on the Guth parallel of latitude in Cumberland Strait [Sound] and on the west sido of Davis Strait.' In November, 18H7, Dr. Fran/. Boa.s sent me a small collection of Rmks trum nK'k-specimens* from tlie island of Umanaktuak and vicinity on the SmMid. south-west coast of Cumberland Sound, all believed to have been taken from the rock in situ, with the exception of one .-.pecimen, which was friiiii (■ Ijoulder in the bed of a torrent at this island and consisted of 'compact liinestone, almost black and somewhat argillaceous. Tt weathers dark-gray, and shows on the surface slightly projecting fine parallel lines of stratiKcation from one-quarter to one-half inch apart. No trace of fospils can be detected either by inspection or microscopic sections. Under the microscope it is seen to consist of gray, rounded, fine calcareous <,'rains with a few black ones, all apparently deposited from water.t' The other specimens in this collection included the following: 'grapliite with rusty surfaces and holding drusy white (|uartz ; a decomposing bla' liv rrofissur K. K. K rsmi. 2* 20 M NORTH 81 DK OF HVD801f STRAIT. Ifruphiti' I'ti,;, (,,nii KOH'.I.- umi I1.-.I i,v 'inf. Srhnch. II. ination of this collection, I stated that : ' These Bpecimenit indicate the onlinary I^Hurentian systein of much the same character as on the north side of Hudson Strait, where the rockx appear to be allied to those of the lower Ottawa valley, and to be somewhat newer and more nioditled than the great nioMS of the Laurentiaa in the Hudson fiay terriUiries.' My exploration of 1897 amply <'<>:ifirmed this determin- ation of the horizon of the rocks of the north side of Hudcon Strait. On the occasion of the visit of the Diana to the whaling; station called Black Lead in Cumberland Sound in 1897, specimen! of graphite from the neighlxiurhood were obtained by members of our party. The occurrence of graphite in the various localities above mentioned around Cuml>erland Sound is interesting in connection with the abundance of the mineral at many places among the crystalline rocks on the north sieen reported upon by Professor Emers<(n in the above mentitmed narrative of Hall's expedi- tion. Small I'ollections of fossils have been brouj.;ht since Hall's time from Sillinian's Fossil Mount by various collectors. .Ml of these, as . wtU as the .Vmherst Collej;c ooilcftion, have l)een lately critically examined and reported on by I'lufessor Ch.iries Schuchert, of the UnitcMJ .States National Museum.^ In the last-named eoUecticm he finds seven distinellv I'liea s| •, ties in a Mlinty bituminous limestone, ■ On till- I,"«iT Sihniaii ri'ri iii..ni K.iuii:' .if hiittin baii'l. I'r i'ilin>,'iif tin' I'.S. NiitH.iKil M.iMian, >..l XXIi., i.].. H:!-177. Witl. pliu.s .\II-.\IV. I.AVRKNTIAN K0CK8. 21 M l.lli'IlH Inilii which Pi-of. EiuecMon infornm uie weathers gray. The locality wh«re these were collet'tcd in suppoHed to lie Jones Cape ia FrobiHher Bay. Hall's collection aUn contains thirteen Trenton species from Cape Stevens (?) in the siime bay. Prof. Schuchert's lists show that 72 species of fossils are now known from Silliu\an's rossil Mount and that 28 of these are not known to occur elsewhere. The majority of all the species, or •>! |ier cent, corre8|Mind with those of the Ualena or «;,., Trenton formation of the .Minnesota and Manitoba region, while 17 ''' are known to occur in the Trenton of the Ottawa valley and the State of New York. About JO of the »p«'cies are new to palieontology and most of these are described and tigured in Prof. Schuchert's paper. He adds : ' The lithologiciil similarities of the Minnesota Ualena and r. Minii.-.ti.. Sillimin's Fossil .Mount, light-coloured shales predominating in both areiis, may explain in a large measure the close identity of these widely sepanitod faunas. This little fauna likewise brings out the fact that the (•■irals, brachiopods, ga .lero|«ids and the trilobites are slow in their evolutional change, and the species can therefore spread over very large areas, while the cephalojxKls, and ]>articul»rly the jn-lecypods, are more sensitiv(! to change ami are thus restricteni North Ray to ('hi>rkl)ack Irdet and inland to Lake Min"o consist of well stratilied hoinblende- and niica-gneis.s, mostly gray in colour, but sometimes reildish, interstratitied with great bands of crystalline limestones, parallel to one another and conformable to the strike of the gneis<, which in a general way may be said to be parallel to the coa»t in the above distance. The directio:i, however, varies ', I tir Ml' (III 22 M XOBTU IIDB or HVMON RRAIT. ft' ,i3. 11 Stiiki illtilii ■omewhat in dUfitrent sectiona of th« coaat. On eithar xide of North B«y it appean to converge to a central line running nouth-iouth- eastward. From the •outh-east point of Big Island to Fair Neu the ■trike is parallel to the shore or about N. 60" W. From Fair Ness to Edmund Bay on the mainland, 25 milea farther to the northward, the direction inclined a little more easterly or inland, being about north-northwest. Here an anticline or a line along which the strike changes, appears to run inland in a north-eaxterly direction and from this line to the east side of Amadjuak Bay tho general strike is about west. Beyond Araadjunk Bay, us far as we went, the strike was pretty uniformly parallel to the trend of the coast or about N. Gi in th In going inland from Amadjuak Bay to Lake >Iingo, the strike which was at first about nort';-we»t gradually changed to aliout west, which it maintained for the .greater part of the di»Unce A list is given further on showing the direction and amount of the dip together with the character of the nw-ks in a large number of places along the coast and inland to the north of Amadjuak Bay. It will lie seen from this list that except when the strata are vertical, the di[) is uniformly to the inland or northwaixl side, except in one part of Markhaoi Bay, and at Maedonald and Rawson islands, where it is in the opposite direction. The character of the rocks being given in each instance in this list no further remarks alwut them are required. In some instances whore the dip was vertical a.s nearly as could be judged by the eye it is here given as 90 . Ihpt <>/ hiurnitian Strntii, Nurth Siili nf Hmlmii Strnn Houth-'itft toNnrth-irtxt, i; II I)i|isi.l l,an- I w, -t «iil. iif (!l:iM.i'iv \A:\\\i\ ill Nnrtli lUv. ('rv»talliii ■ 'iint ■ i.i,tiai.-tnita, st„ti.- an.l iiniy »rn-i-» N ."U K •" l.". i. Himr lliiil'i.ui. i|i|Hihiti' ciist i«iirit !■( ISii; l-latul. (iiay ( \ hi \V '.M In ^'iifi" witli lu.sty liaiicis I . IHI :!. I'n.inimnt hill Mil ialaii'^ N -H V- *■"> II. Ka»t -itli- It'cvi!. Ilarl«>ur. tlray (.'ii.i>» .N I" W !») . , ,. ,, , ,. I \ 10 tn ."ill K T. .N.iith «.-sf si.lf. Ui.\.- Hail».ur. (.ia\>.'n.i»» , .j, ^^.^^ s. N..itli-t >\i\i- \A\v liilit. llaik >,'r.iy L'1ll•i^^' latluT tiiii ly iil,l»,ii.-.l «itliliKlil''i"ti-.-aks .\ HI K :iii !l. Ka>t ^iili- A>l|i llilit. (ir.iy lniiai-ii.li- t,'lliis-. . ,\ 4."> K .Miiil'tr 1(1. K;i^t .-iilc .\-l»' llili't. 1 mill- li.irlhvv.-t nf Station, t.ray Ullli:■^ ^' -l'""" -■"• 11. \\.>i >iili A-lii- Inl.'t. Haik uray i,'li. i»s, riilli|i..i.i-il II i,iiart/. ;,,i.l f.l>|ar in.\-ll l'.-lsll!r|.t. <;. S. 1.SK.I, \, -'l |»l)i.....\ ' -til VI. K.i-t >ic!r NCrtli r.liilf. I >:ii k ;;ray !,'lll•l^N \ Inw l;;. W.-i -i.l.- N'nitli Hl'itf. Dark ^M-.iy Kn.-is,« N :«) \V- _ in t..:.-)! LAlKR:iriAX ItOCKS. 23 II 14. Cnrnp III i»l»iiil« tl null'* north nf Xi>rth Hliitf. Itt'tlilixh K''».v p,..,« NM Wi«tiirl«..l. Av.TiiKf 'lip N »l° W ; high Di. Th)' Mil:!-. 10 niiliK iKirth of North Ithiff. Hiiiiihil tn°»y *»" 17. N'ortli-Mwt -iili' Hill Ulunil m'lir itn north-«tBt imint. tim'iiw mill rrv»tallin>' liinixtoiif N .'M K , IM l)|>.)<;.n.r:ilili|>.. N I'.l. IVwinioMt Hurl..iir. i()|.|««i.itr N. \V. joint oi Ititr Ulanil.l w, .jj j; . - „, ,^^f|■^ l.iKhtKniy ciy»liillini' liimi'loni- iimi nil wiiitlwrinK > ,,l,i,.,.„ ir, ti> V) jfriiy rfni-ii?t ' •Jil. .South |«iint of fntr.UK'i' ti> Crook" Inlft. Kii»ty ({»''i»» »i'h » hiti' lithi»lon.- . N 3" K ■,, IKI •Jl. rtinith -iili' <'ri»ik. Inlit, Ix'twiin rntnmc* mill ii |«.int iiiiil- Wiiy ii|>. l!iii» II w>atlifrin« or iiKty Klu•i»^ miil littiit KMy irytalliiii' linintoiir. Avcrinff tmniil nihli»li lirowii. hut witli ycMo» i>iit(lii'» iiiiil 1 1^- ;« K .Vviiui;. iU<»otiiit4il with M'Vfrnl thick huiiil!. of iryitalliiM- liitht 1 -' 4;, mUiUMil liiiii-toni' •ja. Uirt?!' proiiiontoiy of north "io" ol »iiiiii- iiilit. Whitt- ir\>t- alliur lini.>«toiii' N'> K<:«» tot:. •J4. -J iiiihi. iiiliiiiil (N.I from hiiul of »iiiiii' iiih-t. (irav >;iiii»!" .N3<» K ■'. li» i">. ;< mill - iiil.iuil from. l>o. »ir;iy (fmiHi N IM K < ."ihinil. Kinty iIhoth |K"iii>.' miraiiiiiii ixiiii-". alio iiyslalliii' liuii'itoni' N 24 K '.'-i M. Maiuliiiil. opi«.^iti- «i-t iiiil of i;liiui"' Uliiiil. lir.iy ^,'nl■i••^.^' 14 K 2."> :tl. Wharton llarlmiir. lir.Ht Uiiiil .if whitr ton. runnini; K.S K. up ;i \alh y N 21 K IKl :V'. .i>puir Nlaiiil. I.icht K'raviniart/.o-.k'nii"'. min'of it holdiin,- N24 K- I'll 24 K ;I7. IJilwiiii Itiilforil Harl« ur and Fair Nisn. Unci"" ami liim- »tone>tr.akiil»illiiva N IM K < 4."> toi;ii :k*. Kast siihiif ISiilfor.l llarliour. tiiay (jiivi--- X JM K < IKI .-i'.l. Wi'^t »ity -triak- N 14 K < 7."i 1(1. HtiU of whit.' irystallinc lim.>toiir ami M~|.ai- alt. inatiiij.' ( N .t4 K < 40 with K'"'!*'"'' "•<■'''■■'■"■'■"''"''•'"■' '■""'■^ ''■'' ■' •" "" tl. Taiiiuik-taniay i.ir south hitrlit of Markhani Itayi. i;mi>» intrrstratiKiil with cryatallihi- limist.ini' N:t(>to4(i K • . t". 42. Aniiiiiil lllaiiill..nl liiiy. Crystalliiii' lin,' -t.'iH 1 ami a>««i 1 N X) V. al« ut atnl ri'l-wi'atliiriiiK' inks '40 1:!. Niur I'oint KoU-rt, Markliai . r..iy. ( Jii.i--; .md « rystaliiii.' ( S 80 \V .\^■■^■A.. lilniKtollr. . ' • ' 4."i l>i|.->i I - r^ntn»n»tt,*Tii. liurht piirpli' i.'arni-ts Xt. Kutraiu-f to Akulin>,' lii'.t. loay iruiMsn . , . .•t4. Wilt sidi- Aklllin^' liil. t. tlruy :rnii»» :t."i. Kir-t |point soiilli of H.-dfonl llariH.ur. iMayt;"' Mi. Ca]- Montnw. Markliani Hay. > iray (.'m i>-. 24 M NORTH IIDB OF Hl'DHON BTHAIT. IHiwiif l>i>ii *■*■ '*"•■"•'«>'•»•«"•"■»'"■"' -M^rktu"" H«>. liny iniiiiw witli irntinn ■ •tu, wliili- Usi, ilii,„-,tii«wi.7l s Mt W- «» 't.V IkUiiiI l»'t»t^'ii MUrt anil I.iittlux l^ ll'iv>. Umiw sihI liKht Ifmy liiiKMt.rt,., iiiMi lifM'l)«il Swi W ' N( 4H. l^tiiK UIiiihI Hi • iitmiiit uf I.iiIiUn I, Ititt lirry irmi"" oMi t^iiiiiiiK iiiiH'li lii;lil |>iir|ili ifiirtii t a- ili^x'iiiinntKlirviiUU.N .Vt K ^ («> 47. H>:iil III l.iilrlna'k K»>. Mill iiii iiiiil KiH' irrHiiii'il iiiH"iv>' t(rny Kixi'". liiiiiMiMK'kv itiiil Ii nvi'tioil \H K- 'Mi 4M. \.>rlli.-i»»lirii lit elif l«l»ii.|«i.t i;.i.r» Mrnif (inivifiM -^ N M \V , l.% 4'X I'nli NIhiiiI in Kl lliv. (N>\' «i«f of uditr lii.ir li^n i Kutliir KiH' irri'iiiMl li^hl >.'i.i |iiiirtKi>-' i{mi.« S' i, \v », :^l. I'liint ii|i|»«.it.. iN.K. iifi MiHiloiial.l l-luMi|. Omi ;-ii, ,.. \ \„ W .; iMI hi. Miu-iliMiihl'lUlaiift. *imy ifiift..*. ^ |u K mil.- h.irtli ..,' Miu'il»»ial- .Ski \\ d ■>;(. Ti>iM.fkii.)l. (.■i«lfi-.t lutdnil iiii.iillMif . Villi' liivrr. lii iv i-i.i i»».N ;u K m :<4. Hh«»i.ii HarlHiiiii l-liin.l t.r;n ifiiiiw > ^ '' ^^ .m\,[v ' uii.n.i., .V). l>laiiil 1.1 null-' S\\. >>f Ka»»iii Ulwi'l i iniy )nii ii>«.. SIT \V ,ii ."ill. Fairfax MailNiiu . mar Tiltiil Mil M. iiiitaiii. (iniy (fiici", N It K (i."i "•7. <"ikii roiiii. iiiarrliiirklni k lull t. limy >niii«". N .1) K til) .VI. .\rl I'liit |)i'l'Miiirlji'r\ill)' nil Hinthrrii iNiini if N'ottinif Imiii l^laiiii. liriiv aiitl rt •t ;fii.i-» .. X .-4 |.; i;ii HI. (trtiili liiikr. Wliiti' liiiii-.|iiin'. lineal ili|i. . N li K 70 112. Wliiie strfak M.iiiitaiii. |«.rl .il Kiaii/. li.ia- t,aki . Itaml nf ullilc llllli^tiilli' iif ).'l'i'al tllii'Ulli'xn. (irlli ral ill|> \ .".i; K !tlf Ii3, K'Nit i.f (ini ly l..il.i-. (iray iflii t»« \ m K "^ lli(fli ii4. ^^...r >iilf IJiii I, l.aki', .i|i|iii»ili' lt.iiil.lir Kiv.i. Iliay jni'i»». N It K • lii^h tki. I'lirlafi li-. llimraliN :U ti. ISI K ' 'lip I lii^li It will ht- se.Mi t'roin the alnne list that the dip is ofti'n vpitinil or neaily so .and that in the «rPiil in.ijority of rases it is inland or noith- waid, li.ins; in ilu' opposite direction at only two localities. I'n/iitnlliHi' LiiiK'nIones. riu- distinjjuishinf,' feature in the aen street of.f'l'i "•• '"'"' '♦S09 USA (716) 482-0300- Phone (716) 2M-5!)«9-Fo. ■llJ ^ CRYSTALLISE LIME8T0VES. -8 M of these. There would, tlierefoie, appear to be twelve princijial Vxvnds Tw.h.l«ii.lh. as far as known, to say nothing of numerous minor ones, between Icy Cape and Chorkback Inlet. The limestones are, for the most part, nearly white, coarsely crystalline and niixe movement of the ice, and that this circumstance wouhl shield every biind from itsdcnuding action. On the other hand, in the lower Ottawa region, just referred to, the run of the limestone bands corresponds to the direction of the glaciation and this has NORTH BIDE OP HUD80N STRAIT. Lime8tonei< are coiiH|«ii' Ixwiilities liiiiratuiieH. favoured the wearing out of the valleys by ti.i movement of the ice and its accompanying rock-debris. Owing to the scantiness of the vegetation in Baffin Land, the white colour of the limestones on the sides and taps of the hills and ridges renders thera very cimspicuous in the landscape. Seen from a hill-top at a distance of fifteeti or twenty miles they might be mistaken for glaciers. The dt^bris of the decomposing limestones forms crumbling slopes resembling coarse salt on a grand scale. Among the localities where these limestone bands are well exposed, may be mentioned the head of North Bay, the north-east side of the upper part of Hig Is land and the adjacent islands as well as the mainland opposite, on Iwth sides of Crooks Inlet, at the entrance to Cafion Inlet, on the Strathcona Islands and main shore opposite, around the northem and eastern parts of Markhara Bay, at Wharton Harlwur, Akuling Inlet, islands off Fair Ness, Aberdeen Bay, and along the shore southward of Aniadjuak Bay ; also a,long the route from this bay to Lake Amad- juak, at Orton Lake and White-streak Mountain at the foot of Franz Boas Lake. The high slopes about the north-western end of Bi^ Is- land, were the first examples we saw of these white limestone.", and at first sight we supposed the light colour to lie due to snow on the hill- sides. Crooks Inlet is about twenty miles in length and it crosses the gen- eral strike at righ^ ' .jles. About half the total l^-gt'i if its shore4 appear to consis', . .^lystalline limestones belonging, o five -iifferent large bands. Owing to the shortness of the time at my oisposiil and the necessity of hastening to explore the coast to tlie north-westward, it was impossible for ine to measure the width of the.se bands, but as the dips were at considerable angles and always in the same direction, (nortii-eastward), it was e-tima^ed that their total thicknei^s may be L'0,000 feet, if not more. The wide and conspicuous bed of coarsely crystalline whitish limestone and felspar, wliich runs from Wharton Harbour east-southeastward up a valley, atlorded a l)etter opportunity for estimating the thickness than any of the other b:inds we saw. It appeared to have a horizontal width of a mile and a (juar- ter, or 0,600 feet, xlie diji is northward at an angle of about 60 and hence the bed would have a thickness of about 5,700 feet at right angles to the stratification. As to the total thickness of the twelve bands ■ .talline limestone which have been mentioned as occurring in this pai t of liatlin Land, the avail.ible data on the subject are not .-uHicient to form a correct estimate, but on adding together their probable approximate widths it r..tal vcliiii.e. seems to lie no exaggeration to place their possible total volume, great Croiiks IiiUt. 'riiickiu> CKYSTALLINE LIMKSTONES. as it may appear, atabrnt 30,000 feet, or iin aveiMgnot' -^.TiOO iey «r each of the principal bauds, takinji no account at all of tl-.; smaller It was stated in my summary report on the geology of this region f;;:^;;;;""'">' that the series of rocks under consideration, including the limestones, seems to be made up of altered sediments. The enormous thickness, great length ami regularity of the limestone bands would show that they have heen piecipitated evenly on the level bottom of the primeval ocean, and further tliat the sea must have been deep and the condi- tions uniform for great lengths of time. At the perio'OKTH 8IDK or IIUDHON STRAIT. AKHIK-iatt' extensive development 'if tlie Grenville series in the louthern pii ' of liiitRn Land. The limestones lire constantly associated with rocks which, in the fresh state, seem to l'onsi^stof thinly laininatnl micaceous and L;raphitic ^'neiss, but which upon the surface generally appear as decoinjiosed reddish brown ochrey masses with yellowish patches, the whole being t'.K! result of the action of the weather upon the pyrite which is Oilin-y covi r abundantly disseminated throughout these strata. The hills tormcd of such rocks adjoining the limestone bands often look like great heaps of brownish ochre. By digging through the soft oxidized surface the partially decomposed pyritiferous njck containing much graphite can generally be reached at the depth of a few feet. Boulders are usually absent from these hills. The crystalline limestones of the (Jren- ville series on both sides of the Ottawa Iliver have decomposable rocks like the above associated with thera and this constitutes an interesting resemblance pointing to a correspondence in age of the two sets of rocks. I have no doubt that a more det id examination of the Baffin Land aeries would bring out oth' . nts of resemblance tending to prove their contemporaneity. If this we«> establi. In the portion of Bathn Land explored by myself, there is abundant evidence of the former ex.stence of l.ind ice in the form of till and roundetl and angular erratics The latter are generally, but nr,t univer- sally, scattered in ;;ieat numbers upon the surft^ce of the rocks alike on the hills and lowest ;,'iounds. The rounded boulders are often thrown together in immense ijuantities, without any admixture of tiaer material, in th- shajte of ridues and heaps like small hills, espe- cially aloiii; the sides .inil towards the bottoms of valleys. In some ca-^es, as at Boulder Iliver, Stevenson Lake, they are spread evenly and im.ii- tinuously over many acies, completely concealing the rock or ground beneath. They may generally be se^n conspicuously perched on tl'e flanks and tO|is of hills ami on the brinks of precipices. Frei|ueiitly they are gathered into groups in a varietj- of sitUiitions. With few exceptions the lioulders at any plai e throughout the country consist of gneisses like those of the surrounding distiiit and they have prob- ably not bien transported any great distance. Very large boulders are not common and few of extraorilinary si/e were seen. Osars or dry heaps and ridges of sand and gravel without boulders MUHFACK itKOLfXiV. 2l> M or even l»i ,'p atones were neen at neveral places on my journej to lj»kt> A'i'cJjuak, eMpecially ulout the northern piirt of Stevenson L«ki' iind west of (}ill>ert Lake, The till was nearly alwiys much oxidi/ed ami |-,|| it p»r(ookofii -(ravelly and sandy rather tlmn a clayey character ii the gr.iit mnjurity of ciiHeK. It was pi'esent in considerable ijuanlitii" at the head uf inlett and on the slopes or the bottoms of most of thi- valleys examineil. On our tramp to and from Lake Amadjuak wi- wftlked most of the way iilon>{ the Imttonis and sides of valleys, iind here one o! the cliiiractiTistic featuren whm the frequency with which our cottrsu was crossed hy rivulets of perfectly transparent icy wiitei-, .\liuiv Kur^lti^' over stony Imttoms in narrow channels tut through the till. Their How appeared to be re;.'ulBr and cotistant and their supply of water seemed to lie derived from the iL;radual thawin;^, during the summer weather, of the frozen ground idouK the numerous liranchesof the rivulets on the higher parts of the valley-slopes. The general contours of the hills show thai the country has been ice-swei>t at some period, but the other distinct signs of glaciation are (iUduiioiu not so strongly miirki-d as they are ahmg the eastern const of Hudson Bay, or more particularly on the northern slmres of Lukes Huron and HuperiDr. The oclirey covering on many hills resulting; from the super- ficial deciiy of certiiin rocks whi<-h accompany i he great li'iiestone bands has l)een already described. This is an evidenee that these hills have not l>een recently glaciated. The frequent, if not genera! a^iseiice of l>oiil- ders on such hills is an interesting circumstunee in this conneeiion. The surfaces of the gneisses exposeil to the weather on tlie hills in various places where I went inland was considerably enxled, leaviii!,' the more resisting layers standing out several inches above the geuei'al surface. Distinct dacial stri:e were .seldom seen and then, as a rule, enly ';i."iil striit. near the level of the sea oi- of some lake. The tiear-iiL-s, in such case- as were observed, are j;iven in the fol'owing list. In the inter or, tlie general tendency of the stria' appears to be to follow the lowest levels towards Hudson Strait, while on the shore c,f the strait itself the glaciation has been south-eastward or parallel to its j,'.neral course. On the southern side of the strait similar phenomena occur, that is, the glaciation runs from the interior northward to this great channel and on reaching it turns down its course towards the .Allantic. It would appear that before the advent of the gl icia! epoch this part of the continent stood at a eoiisiderably !.'ieater elevation aliove the ocean than the present, and that the bed of Hudson Si rait and its continua- tion in the ileep water of the southern part of Fox Basin, formed a straight land vallev about 100 ni'les wide and 700 rniles lonsr, reaching 30 M NORTH SlUE or • UIMtOS HTIIAIT. v»ll|.>..f M.il L«l,rador •HiiiStrjiit llrift iif NiitliiiKliaiii lallinai t of the preMont botU.ni of the eustern iidi- of the litter was nc'»»iw*rd. The glacier which filled the valley now occupied by Hudso . Hti-.it would thu* d-.ive a j.ortion of its ice from the bfd of Hudson H«y- Itefore the discovery of diieot evidence of the northward movement of the ice in the north-east.-rn part of the bed of Hudson lUy 1 sug- gested that the u.bris of n^ks .u' the Manitounuck fonimti.m of the East Main Coast, which forms nearly half of the drift material on the southern part of Nottingham Island and embracing all varieties of the rocks of tli. series, might have lorae from somewhere to the west of this islnndt, but with our present knowlp.lge on this subject, it ap- pears more pnibable that the material has l)oen derived from tl ast- ern coastof Hudson llay, as Nottingham Mand would li< .lirectly upon the course of the ice coming from this coast. Wherever soft materials occur in the situations which were exposeci to the action of tin- waves when the sea st.sxl at relatively higher levels, or rather when the land was depres-ed, U-rrai-es may l» seen marking peiiods of rest i iring the general uprising of the land which has lieen going on since the glacial epoch, and still continues. The time at my dis^wsal did noi permit of much attention l>eing paid to this briii'h of the ^'eology of the region explored, but a few facts were noted. At one mile north from the head of Crooks Inlet an ancient gravel and sand iKjach occurs at 'MO feetal)ove the sea, according tl>. + Keiwit of Pi.«rf:<«, G.H1I. Surv., Can., l»«2-3-4, p. -"J, UD. -] HIKIACB OROLOOV. 31 M WM followed on our way to Lake AmMljuak. In connection with thii Mubje<'t, Mr. I>rinlcwater of the Dinna pxpedition, informed roe that he hail vlinihed the hilU abov' O'Brien HurUmr at Cape Chidley, dnd fuunil a hiiriziiiital line of rolltwl iit«)neM, plainly mitrkinK a rai^^eil l)eout fiOO feet alxivc the nea. liittle could be don" in the way of Kcari'liinj{ f<.r fossiU in the pleU- I' tocene depoxitH, hut shflU of Sa.iieai'a >•■ ■"! and ,Vy sea. niid lit linkesi (iertrmle and On-ely SaAenra nignm occurre:! in th<> drift at 1 10 fwl almvp th" wame level in earh caw. At one plnrr on theformt-r lake the «toiiy clay had lK»en pushed and th.s. Giant pot holes in gneiss were ol>serv»il on the westfaoinn slop*- at i the east side of the narrow entrance to Canon Inlet, 0 feet alH)ve tide, and aljout Xx feet in diameter I lilt .1 llnle It'ldciiil Sliiii, XiTth Si(U of llii'Uon Strait, Asfronntiilraf Jimtri iiyn. 1. X.i'tli.rn Iiilit of Niirtti Hay >'• -T W. 2. Ai..ut.(l .\.«li.- III!, t lU.-i.t. «i tiii.l. Siirv. Ink:,, p. •.'•J, i>\>). . S. r:, K. .1. Crv»t:iIIiiH liiiif^toiii riilp' acnw^- iiitmnri' to t'iihon liilit, tlif »tiiie 11111 up mill liver a Hti'''|i ^hl|«■ .'s. .'U U . 4. Wi-,t »iil.' r.itj Niaiiil, !i iiiilii iiuitli ipf Xi.rtli I'.ltiir. iilxiiit . . S. I.". K. r.. Kiilriiii-i- 111 .\k\iliiin li.l.i. . f*. ■" W- li. N,,rth sill,. AlLiit llay, Markliam lluy S. :i4 W. r, AiiiailjiKik ll,irl»im S. :u \V. .s. (e-rtniili- I.ak.- S. ( '.». F.Kit iif Kraiiz I'.naK l,akf .<. :i' \; . 1(1. K.Mit i.f tin.ly l,ak. ^ W. 11. Wall lift l,.iki' - • ' \^ 12. Tup iif a iiiiiiiiitaiii 1 inili' S.W. nf .Mm. . Miiii,'.i ami laciii« X.K . f* :"|-t ^^^ 13. Kaw«„ii lLiil.,1,1 l„iii.i S.r>t\\, 14. Xiirtli-'aMtirii uf tin laiiil" uf tiiKl'" .M.Tii.'. mi virtiiiil wall ami rumuliii nickii S. 44 \S l,"i. Kast.ni si.l.»iif l-laiuls..f li.KlM M.riir S. 11 W. It . lilii-I»lanil S. 4!t \V. 32> Norni KIM or himon mtkait. ». O^ihU-riint, nMU'C'l..«kl»ik liiUt "• Jl. Li«»i««iilMTii»"»livmity ul X.ittiniclimii lnUnd. \s>-r»it<- «l aOiiitxiitioii.annilKl INirl Ih- BiHitlirnillf. (R*"!'. ml "t l''rt Uf lloivhirvillf. (K*!"- "••"'• Hurv.. 1*5, |i. •-".'■ I»l»t»l«iiit 4 W. H7 K. S. Ift K. -1 AIITHOMUMII'AL UUHBUVATIONit. APrKNDIX I Amtkuxomk'ai. Oiwkkvatkijih. Latiti UKst in Baffin Lttml from olwervationH by Dr. ItuWrt R'll, in 1N« UM(1 in tiu' lUDipilutiim of the acroinpiinying map of HutlMon Hirait. 1. Hti.. y. Khiil AincM.t. IMSlT ■.> Wi'iliifsiliiy, I ltd Mi>iiilit>. Siiturdiiv. W»'(hif»Mli»y, TtH'whiy, Kritli Aii»;ii^t. 37tli.riily, 3Ttli AiiK'ii-'. t»tli Ittli IHlB tK!t7 lH!t7. l«r7 Utitiidi m It 111 •M .-ir .'.;■• ta ,vti7" m M :«' iM 17' a* ■ Kl" IW 91" IM •»»' 4'J" •a 4.Y;iv (H iH'av I'll •iVl«' LoefditifH qf'llie iibtiit Obturratiotu. I. riiint S. I K., 2j mi' - fii'iii -'Mitli«. -• i ml hiittiKHiil l«lanil. •J mill ;i. Ill liiiilHiur, at lii;ul "f Aiiuiiljuak Itay. I. -I'liiiit N. '.'■ K . I 11.11. •^. fii.iii ii..itli .'iiil iif III. I.. I l>l iiiil. ."i. On Spin I l-laiiil, I mill- (ii.iii iimtli iinl. •1. I'lMiit X. mi'' W., 1-' iiiili» fnii itli«i-t iiiil liliiiiiH' l-laii(l. 7. I'liint nil "lii.ri', N. .li W., ."i mil.-, fi.nn t'a|» Ciiliiii r. «. I'liiiit iliii- wiiitli 1 mill » fiiiiu «.-.( mil Kiuiiiii Nlaii'l. I). —Oil Aiiiiwljiiuk liiikr n.iiti', at imrtli mil nf (!i!l«Ti Ijikr. tu. .. .. 1\ luilin Miiitli .if M.iuiit Mill^'.> 34 M NORTH 8IDB OF HUDSON STRAIT. LoNoiTUDBS in Baffin Land from observations by Dr. Robert Bell in 1897, used in the compilation of the accompanying map of Hudson Strait. Cau-I'lationm iiv .1. (!. (!. Kkuhy, M<'(tii,i. I'nivkksity. Date Tiutitiidp. 1«»7. 1 lAug. 22 2 I u 10 s ! .. -a 4 ' » 2.1 in- 211' (i4 5' KkvihkI" ItKsri.TX PIIOM CoHKKITEl) LaTITIUBK. .Vi.| 1 irox. L "K- 7r, Wf 7."> :«)' 73-OCl' 71 «0' 71 (nC Ktiluci-d if'iimt'tKl IjiinKituilc DitfiTinci- ■iimftMI i^,„„vi.. i»iniTiiiii- 7:t 2!!' :«»■' ! lA iKi 10" 7a :w 2!»" 72 2«' 49" 72' 52 .->7 71 ;«' 4!l' 70" Wi' 21" Alit. !. mil.- K. (W .-«' 22" 72 .■!!{ .. w. Localities of the above ohnervalioiiJi 1. — I'uint X. 7N K. 3 iniliM fnmi wist ••nd riiiiiiiUiliiiii Island. 2.— Puiiit X. 14 \V. 4\ iiiilfs from iKirth iiid MihiiuKtill Isliind. 3. -I'oint S. 4' \V. 'h iiiiUs fmiii Ruwmiii MarlKnir. 4. -Point .S. 2.">' W. 34 niilis from northwest end (!lt'nietween Aniodjuak l^y and (yhorkt>ack Inlet. Rannnruhimt. UaiKincuhiH nivalin, L. i»>yiiitviii«, VVithl nv|»»'rl)tin'uw, Ritttli.. :ittinw» K. Hr. . . !. U. Paparerareff, ru|iiivfr alpiniuii, L. (*iirilaiiiini- priitt-nsiM, fj . iN-llHlifnliil, ll.n.k l>nil)U nivalis, Lilj WahlriiU'r^ii, llai-tin AiuIm^ alpiiiJi, li . Ktitrthia Ktlwanlsii, U. lir ... Crwifene. Silent' acHulin. L Lyelniiw nttiiiis, Vahl a|ictalu^ L Strllaria l<>iitcijM-.s lJ»>l*ii»». Ccnistituii alpiiiuiii, Ij . . Oi fiffph ftltwo* . Lfj/tniiinom. (Kvtp>pi?> t'umix-MtriH l>C. var. Cienilea, Km-li. Ii'iK-aiitlia, IN-rs HulniK Chaiinpiiinnis, L. rntf'iitilla nana, WilM . Ih'yas iiitr^rifolia. Vahl . Jio:n. .Part| .'ji-spitosa, L riviilari.s L ■t icniua. It M nivalis, I*. stt'llaris, I^. var. cuMKisa, INiir.. M Hirculnf*. L .t trii'iispidata, llt-t/.. M aizni'lfs. L Kpitudiiini tittifuliidti. L. Omvinu'io. 3r. M NORTH SIDE OF HUDSON STRAIT. Cnmpiml'r. V.Tigi'tim unifl:ini», Ij ♦■riort'phalni*, .J.Viihl ■ ■ Aiitiiiimriii uIimiih, < iii'itn Airiiiii iilpitia, nniil:i iiniflura, L. Krimeii . V'acciiiiiini iili(fiii<>HUin, I^ Viti»I(lH>ii, L Aritrwtjililiyliw ftlpiiwi. Sprfnif . . CasKiniH* tctriiirnna, Don. Ij*»i^I('iiriii }ir(K'umiien-^, !><■»»»' r.ryttiitlms tiixifoliiix, (iray l/iiluiii |ialii!-tii-, L I'viula iiiiiiiir. li Aninria viili<, Willil PhtmljfitiiitfirffP. Srrophiihriacar. Pfdit'tilarij* r^apiKniifn. Ij.. .. LaiiKwliirtti, Piscli. var. laiiata. (iray.. liiivuta, li Hainiiti'H, I^ I'lilypiiiinn viviimriim, I. Oxyria iligyiia. Hill PftI fujtmtu'fit . ISi'tuln trlancinliwa, Miclix .. nana. L Cupf'Ufff'r. Snlirinr(r. Salix arctica, R. B .. (flauoa. h Iit'rbacfa. L rf ticulata, I. niyrsinitcx, L. var. iwrvifliira, Pnrsh. ■ I I'vaurHi, I'ursli Ki(liarni, H(Kik Km|pt'tnini nigniin. I- Empttra -u] LIST OP PLANTS. 37 m tifioretr. Tofilpflift JwrHaliM, Wahl. Junrarnr. Luxula ripicatu, PfHV. Cfipfmrfti'. Carex niiMandra. R. Hr .. MaxatiliH, L . . . Krinplioruiii Hcht'U/.)-ri, H(i|i|>»' ■ */r€tmint(t'. Glyc«'ria vilfoidea, FrieH ArctaKroNtiH latifulia, (iriwlt . Ilit'rccliloa alpina, K. and S. . AloiHtJiiriiH alpiiius. h II. ■ I • EquiHctnm rirvc £t/uinitttf'*tf. Lyo«i|KKlinni S«-lagn, U LiteopodiacefT. Muitri, CtTuttKlim purimrt'iitf, Brid Kuntiiiitriuin IaiiUKin>>Himt, Itrid. . . Barhula fra^ilis. Hnicli and Schiiiip Ainplioridiuiii Ij:ipiM)iiK'Uiii, Schitiip. .. . T»'trapl<»dun nmHMn«'s, IVuuh and Seliimp Wftxra nutans, Hedw Rrynni aiftirnn!, Hniuh anriii juliata var. chalyUt' formis, Ach. M erh)rfa» Hoffni Pt'ltifjfra aphth(wa, (L.) Hotfni Snlorina c-rocca, (JL.) Acli.. PlatfKlium vitcllinuni (Ehrh) FlaciNlimn t-legans (Link.) DC Ijcuanora pallfHten?*, (L.) Schfer PtTtusaria gldnierata, (Ach.) Schffir,.. . StereocanKm ])at*chale, {L. ) Kr M condHisatuin, Hoffni C'ladoniu ranKifcrnia var. sylvatica, L Funffi. Sclt nKh-rma. sp. Lycn].* rdon lielli. IN-ck. Collit-H-d also at DiffK**'* Inland, soutii ^uh- Hudson Strait. 3» M NOHTII RIDE OF tlUliSON MTKAIT. APPENDiX III. List of Lkfidoptkra takkn in Baffin Land iiy I>k. Uoiieht Bkll, IN 1897. netennine:iiiii, Curtis, (liiirva). .Ir,l\ :.V,. H.™luf('r,«ik» tlil.t: AriltntHii* (Uiitrtc/iii<' fniiale. .hily :.'!•. KiKint: iieow Iiilit : - Chitmnhii AKxiiiiilix, lint. Female. Cnlitff^ Prittliit, Hdv. Female. .\njriist 11?.-- K<»nte from .VuKuljnak Bay tn Lake .Vma(oloi(|ii(al ^ SIONOC M DAWSON M D*WS0N,C.M6.LlO.ril •.DIRICTOII. M»- ««• ■ ■■■:■( •■ ■■.'■■■ Hpf Hnfirn A4v>ui' mt -r [3] , J,»Mrrmi$*Mi Hmttf 0*^f»tt»t M«M#M» *fftif4HJ j*»rit0 f ^JhHf .•rt* A-r*^ , '•*>>* lAMK ■Iv. of til<> COilHtH oi' HUDSON STRAIT and UNGAVA BAY IhHtrirtM of FHAXKLIN aiMl TNCJAVA ♦ To iUiiHU-nlr rfpiirtH Irv R. 8£LL. M.D.,LL.D..F.R.S. ■ nd A. P. LOW, B.A.Sc. Sriili-, J.'> miles lo I iiicli ! I! siirm-KS or ixroioiArioy \Mlii Mk.'iv .>t HuJM'm .tuvil.thant I'hnrkt'air tmirt I- /<,t 'V/^. ■»'*«/ n>»tl*- I,. •;,-,',yr Hi^f f*^»» .w#*-.Mi.'«H.w//t .■**-.*^ /.i».-*w.rt tfv A i' Uw.IH.tr lii, 'M'i .Viraii.lfl.'ilith'm .U,*/' xt' i.uht^,i«r rnun^uU ♦> I I' t.um.UVHt. M^ tlvm Mii/>,'i'flitfilnhm• •v»- • • • 1 •• <;«^ •«1 1 K(S' 090